AFV Modeller - Issue 07 - 4 - Naked Desperation Part 1

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Adam Wilder demonstrates the techniques behind his STZ T-34/76 Part One - Construction

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My Dream Model We modellers all have that one subject we keep hesitating with. We keep waiting until our modeling skills reach a level that will allow us to construct and finish this special subject making the perfect model to reflect on though out the rest of our years. The unpainted Stalingrad T-34/76 is my long

mantlet manufactured at the Barrikady

variants. The techniques I used to convert

factory. Another distinction was the

this model are time-consuming but basic.

interlocking glacis, top, and rear plates

If you are looking to undertake your first

with the hull side plates. Other apparent

major conversion this subject might be

details included the rectangular hatch

perfect for you. All you need to do is take

located on the rear hull plate, and the

your time and double check all of your

simplified rear turret plate. Due to a

measurements before making any cuts.

shortage in rubber, the 1941/42 STZ T-34s

Please file and dry-fit the hull parts

had all steel wheels.

continuously to insure proper fit before

awaited special subject for two reasons.

gluing them together. You should

The first reason being the T-34/76 is my

The Stalingrad Tractor Plant continued to

preferred subject to model. The second is

produce T-34s until September of 1942

that I was a welder/metal worker on a

when the Germans were already at the

factory floor for the first years of my career

outskirts of the city. It has long since been

Living in America I do not have many

before I got soft and moved into an air-

rumored that the final T-34s were being

Second World War Soviet tanks in my

conditioned cubicle.

driven straight off the production lines,

neighbourhood. I had to guestimate some

without paint, into battle manned by the

of the dimensions on this conversion

factory workers that built them.

because I only had photos and drawings to

The STZ T-34 The Stalingrad Tractor plant (STZ) T-34/76, 1941/42 production tanks had a number of

For beginners looking to do their first major conversion….

details that differentiated it from other

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completely read the first part of this article before undertaking the conversion.

go by. As you undertake other conversions after this one, you will find that some guesswork for the exact size and shape of

variants including the T-34 models today

In part one of these articles I am going to

various details is always needed. With all

on the market. The most obvious detail

explain to you, with the aid of photos, how

of this in mind, let’s go on.

was the simplified pointed F-34 gun

I constructed one of the STZ T-34, 1941/42

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Backdating the DML T-34/85

With the new upper hull plates finished, I

thickness of the new glacis plate. I added

Model 1944 Hull

cut the top out of the DML T-34. I first

new dovetails then dry-fitted the upper hull

made rough cuts with a rotary tool then

plate to locate the notches. After marking

carefully filed off the rest of the hull sides

the locations of the notches on glacis plate

down to the welds. Make sure you file a

with a pencil, I carefully filed them.

Photos 1 to 4 I chose the superb DML T-34/85 model as the basis of my STZ T-34. My biggest concern backdating the DML kit was the interlocking hull plates. I could have rescribed the interlocking welds but I felt

bevel under the welds so the top fits properly with the side plates. The top vents were also removed in the same manner.

Photos 13 to 15 After filing the notches, the three hull plates were carefully checked for proper fit

Photos 9 to 12

then glued into place. Pieces of sheet

detail might have been lacking in the end result. Because of this I decided to rebuild

The ends of the lower hull

the upper hull.

needed to be filed back

plastic were

to accommodate the First, I carefully removed the moulded-on

corrected

fenders from the DML upper hull. With the fenders removed I was able to take accurate measurements and determine the proper hull angles. After determining the hull angles and dimensions, new plates were constructed from sheet plastic with interlocking dovetails. Photos 5 to 8

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temporarily glued to the sponsons (photos

interior painted black, I assembled the

appears to be a casting for the lower rear

10, 14, & 15) to help ensure the side plates

brass louvres (Royal Model) and painted

plate. This casting had a fillet or rounded

were properly glued flush with the hull

them. When using large amounts of super

corner, which butted against the bottom of

underside.

glue, pour a small amount into an

the upper rear plate. I first filed a radius

aluminium foil dish as in photo 23. The

around the corners of the DML kit parts no.

super glue will stay in a liquid state for

8 and 9 as shown. I then glued a piece of

hours.

sheet plastic across the inner top of kit

Photos 16 to 20 The locations where the upper hull side plates interlocked with the top plate were

part no. 5. After the glue was dry, I filed the Photos 25 to 27

located, marked, and filed in the same

radii then filled the seams with putty. The

manner as explained in photos 9 through

With the louvres in place under the top

large castings that house the drives were

12. Dovetails were added to the top plate

plate, the top was placed onto the rest of

also textured with liquid glue and putty.

as shown. The flanges holding the formed

the hull. Make sure you first fit the top

plate over the engine vents were narrower

without any glue to see if any extra filing

on the T-34/85 due to the larger turret. I

needs to be done to the hull top. If there

The upper front hull details needed to be

removed the flanges as shown in photo 17

are any gaps after gluing between the

backdated. I first cut some parts out of an

and super glued plastic into place as seen

molded welds on the DML top plate and

old Tamiya T-34. I then filed out the details

in photo 18. After the glue had set, I filed

the new hull side plates, carefully fill them

on the top plate until the Tamiya parts fit

the plastic to the proper shape and filed

with putty. If you get any putty on the

snug. Sheet plastic was glued underneath

any gaps with putty. New flanges and

welds it can be blended with Testors liquid

to hold the two parts in place. It is easier

bolts were added using sheet plastic.

cement using an old paintbrush.

to use sheet-plastic for the front plates

Photos 21 to 24

Photos 28 to 30

Golden brand acrylics spread well and set

The next step was to backdate the rear of

fast. With all of the visible parts of the

the model. The earlier T-34/76s had what

Photos 31 to 32

which only need to be removed by sanding

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flush. New bolt details were added.

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new hull. I currently make all of my weld

Photos 45 to 50

seams from stretched sprue. Carefully lay The rectangular hatch was then located and drawn on the rear plate. As always, I made a crude rough-cut, then carefully filed the hatch opening to its proper shape. The hatch door was then constructed. The hinges were added using sheet plastic and stretched sprue. The hexagon bolt details and exhausts were laid out on the plate

the stretched spreu into the groove with the aid of your knife while brushing on liquid cement. The liquid cement will soften the sprue allowing you to knead in the weld texture with your knife. You will need to add some more glue and repeat kneading a few times to make the sprue lay flat like in photo no. 41.

I first hollowed out the hull machine gun housing. With an idea of the ball mount diameter, I found a length of Evergreen tubing that matched and glued it onto a piece of plastic sheet. I then filed the sheet plastic to the diameter of the tubing and added the bolt detail with sprue and a slot for the machine gun.

and added. Upon getting the weld texture that you find Photo 34

convincing, finish with one more brushing

The large rear screen over the

of liquid cement. At this time use your knife

transmission was formed sheet metal and

to get the texture of the flame cut edges

easily dented and deformed. To catch this

on the ends of the plates (picture 46). All

realism I constructed this component from

of the added welds on the model were

brass. I soldered the parts together to get

constructed in this fashion. Remember not

a stronger, cleaner bond. When soldering

to place any welds on the rear upper hull

brass use solid core solder and liquid flux

plate. With the basic hull conversion completed I moved on to the exterior

Photos 35 to 44

The machine gun was constructed from stretched sprue and lead foil. After inserting the gun into the ball mount, the tubing was cut to length and placed into the housing. You will need to do some filing to the underside of the ball mount to make the housing sit flush on the hull. Photos 51 to 53 The DML drivers hatch was textured and “roughed up” similar to reference photos in

components.

my library. Components that I think are All of the welds needed to be added to the

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used for tightening the track were cut from

The front casting attaching the front lower

photos all appear to have the type of the

the DML hull. I had to rework the DML

and upper hull plates was a piece of

reworked Tamiya hatch in photo 58.

towing lugs to represent the earlier bolt on

evergreen tubing sliced longitudinally and

Evergreen tubing and strip was used to

style. All of the fillets in the towing lug

cut to the width of the model. I glued a

make the alterations to this hatch. The

castings were added using putty. Although

piece of stretched sprue across the centre

periscopes were poorly cast and replaced

these lugs were bolted into place, they

of the part to represent what in photos

using cut parts from Tamiya turrets I had

also appeared to be welded when they

appears to be a casting line. I then

on hand. Most of the bolts on this resin

were attached.

textured the part and attached it to the

casting needed to be replaced.

hull.

Running Gear

Photo 54

The Turret As I started adding the smaller hull

Photos 61 to 63

components I painted the louvers that

When I constructed this model I had an old

were to be covered by the rear screen. I

Accurate Armor STZ resin turret. Although

will talk about the techniques used to paint

it had some casting flaws on the resin that

them in the second part of this article.

needed to be corrected, it looked convincing and saved me the time of

Photos 55 to 57 I constructed the locks for the lifting lugs from Evergreen plastic and stretched

reworking the Tamiya 1942 turret I had on

earlier drive and idler wheels were needed. The older style outer Tamiya drive and idler wheels were fitted to the inner DML wheels. The radius of the Tamiya drive wheels might need to be sanded down a

my shelf.

millimeter. Photo 61 also shows the rework needed to the Tamiya outer drive wheel to

Photos 58 to 60

sprue as seen in photo 55. The four

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The all steel road wheels as well as the

make it fit to the inner DML wheel.

latches that hold down the rear screen

On the three STZ after market turrets I

were also constructed of the same

have seen, all require the use of the hatch

The old Tamiya steel wheels are, in my

materials (photo 56).

included with the Tamiya T-34 1942 kit. The

opinion, some of the best and still are

hatches on the STZ T-34s I have viewed in

easily available. Of course I used the DML

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hubs to replace the rubber ones provided

get a clear picture or drawing of, was a

for the Tamiya road wheels. The hubs on

small round object on the top center of the

the front idlers must be backdated by

front glacis plate. If someone has a clear

cutting off every other bolt. The DML hubs

picture or drawing of this detail please post

Using my hobby knife I broke some more

fit loosely into the Tamiya wheels and must

it on the ISE Flying Venus, Panzernet, or

balsa wood and gnarled the ends as

be centred by eye while using slow drying

Missing Links internet forums.

though ripped apart by powerful

glue such as Testors.

Now…

did not want to attach the torsion bars and running gear until the base was completed, as I will show you. As I mentioned, this model is going to be painted to represent one of the rumored unpainted T-34s to supposedly see combat in Stalingrad. To further show the tanks rush onto the battlefield, I decided to omit other less important components such as the fenders and tie-downs. If you want to construct a regular STZ T-34, after

the destroyed factories and shops in

The Base

fender sets that you can use. One small detail on the STZ T-34s in which I could not

Stalingrad had corrugated Iron sections covering the outer walls. I made these

I wanted the base to give a feeling of the chaotic fighting in Stalingrad with the T-34 riding over a hill of rubble. As influenced by Japanese modelers, I wanted the base to be big enough to convey the environment of the destroyed city but small enough to keep the focus directed toward the model.

from lead foil using vice grips and pieces of glued Evergreen tubing. The broken bricks were constructed from the same clay used for the base hill, cut to the dimensions of the bricks scribed on the Custom Dioramics parts before they solidified.

I viewed many photos of the inner city fighting and noticed a number of details I

All of the base details described above

wanted present on the base, which I will

were then randomly placed on the base. A

discuss.

half glue/half water mixture was placed over the base using an eyedropper or

Photos 64 to 65

market companies such as Aber, MB Models, and Edward make brass T-34

Photos 66 to 67

explosions. Some of the photos I viewed of

After the wheels were backdated the STZ production T-34/76 was almost complete. I

Clay was then used to start the hill.

pipette. Do not worry about pouring on too

Foam purchased at an art store, balsa

much water and glue onto the base. It is

wood, and parts from a Custom Dioramics

important that these parts stay together

building were first glued to a wooden set.

during painting.

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Wrap Up before Painting

References

With the base completed, holes were

With the torsion bars attached, the model

• Zaloga, Steve and Sarson, Peter. T-34/76

drilled for mounts to hold the model in

was removed from the base and the DML

Medium Tank 1941-1945, New Vanguard

place. The T-34 was then placed on

wheels detatched. Now everything was

No. 9. Reed International Books 1994.

Evergreen tubing at its approximate height.

ready for painting. The remaining photos

Photos 71 to 72

show the assembled STZ T-34. In the second part of this article I will explain how

The tracks were then assembled and laid

I painted the unique unpainted T-34.

Thank you….

rubble, the torsion bars were then

DML wheels were placed (not glued) onto

• Erickson, Professor John and Ljubica. The Eastern Front in Photographs,

I would like to thank my friend Carlos Ellios for his advice and help with the bricks.

the torsion bars. The torsion bars were

Luciano Rodriguez and MIG for their

then glued to the hull using super glue. I

guidance with the layout of the photos

used a paint mixer to press at the base of

Copywrite: 2001 Carlton Books Limited, 20 Mortimer Street London, W1T 3JW, Text Professor John Erickson Skulski Przemyslaw. T-34/76, Seria Pod

the torsion bars keeping them square with

Parts for this model were provided by

Lupa, No. 101. Ace Publication 53-350

the hull as the super glue dried. After the

Mission Models at

Wroclaw 15, Ul. Powstancow Slaskich 50,

torsion bars were firmly in place, regular

www.missionmodels.com.

str. Pocztowa 33

liquid plastic glue was added around the super glue for additional strength.

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Armor No. 20. Squadron/Signal

Carrollton, Texas 75006.

model in location on the base at its

assembled. Because of their tight fit, the

in Action, Squadron Signal Publication,

Publications Inc 1115 Crowley Dr.,

under the hull onto the base. With the

approximate height and the tracks over the

• Zaloga, Steve and Grandsen James. T-34

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