Part Three - Finishing the base Adam Wilder demonstrates the techniques behind his STZ T-34/76 43 Painting the Base It is important that the painting ...
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Adam Wilder demonstrates the techniques behind his STZ T-34/76 Part Three - Finishing the base 43
Painting the Base
depth. With the wood completed I moved
faint red and oxide colours on light grey
onto the wall.
bricks such as the ones used on my base.
It is important that the painting of the base be completed to the same quality as the model. A poorly finished base will detract from a model’s convincing paint job. This was the first time I have painted anything like this base so this is what I did… Photos 1 through 5 Using a piece of concrete as my example, I first painted the whole base with an undercoat of mixed acrylics. I decided to
After placing the streaks, I added thinned Photos 6 through 8
of some of the bricks on both the walls and
with a lighter shade of the base colour. I
on the base.
then shaded different areas with washes of
broken areas of wood with a base of acrylics. After painting the base, a wash of enamels was added. After letting the wash dry for about 15 minutes I added chips to the wood using the same mixture of acrylics as in photo three. Focus most of the chips on the edges and ends of the wood. I then mapped the chips with a mixture of enamels and oils for further
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Photos 12 through 13
acrylics to break up the wall. After shading the bricks I applied an extremely heavy
After affixing the oxide washes, I brushed
wash between the brick, using grey
on an off-white colour to the upper edges
enamels. A lighter wash of grey enamels
of the bricks on the walls and base for
was also brushed across the rest of the
extended depth. Although more time
bricks on the base.
consuming, brushing on highlights with a
paint and detail the wood next. As always, I painted the old areas and the freshly
faint red oxide colours to the upper halves
I first painted all of the freshly broken brick
fine brush as shown in photo 12 gives you Photos 9 through 11
more control, keeps the lighter coloured
While I waited for the washes on the wall
paint more refined, and does not subtract
to dry, I added some heavy washes of
from the other faint colours added in
earth colours around the perimeter of the
previous steps. Highlights were also added
base with lighter earth washes over the
to the brick to represent chips as they
brick hill of the base. I then moved back to
crashed and rolled into each other when
the wall adding dark grey streaks I
they fell. Dry-brushing the whole base
observed in actual photos. I kept the
would look nice from a distance but
streaks on what would have been the outer
unrealistic when viewed closely.
sides of the walls. I have noticed different
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Photos 14 through 15 The final touch to the base was done by brushing on dry
I would like to thank the following:
pigments. When you have buildings collapsing and artillery throwing earth in the air, large amounts of dust will settle over everything. Earth coloured dust was heavily added to the outer
David Sproul and the gang at Inness Photo for their priceless help and advice.
perimeter of the base while lighter amounts were brushed over
Steven Brezinski for all of his Humbrol suggestions as well as the
the bricks, wood, metal and wall. Lighter grey dust was also
encouragement of all my Spanish friends and the support of the
added over the entire base.
Ise Flying Venus crew.
After adding dust, the T-34 was reattached to the base. The sections of sheet metal as well as the steel beam were
Jon Tamkin at www.missionmodels.com for the supplies and new finishing products.
simply painted like the T-34. Painting the perimeter with a nice colour contrasting the overall tone of the base greatly adds to the final appearance.
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