AFV Modeller - Issue 10 - 5 - Basic Brass

Basic Brass Continuing our occasional series on techniques we take a look at working with etched metal detail sets. Love them or loathe them, these detail sets have revolutionised the hobby and are guaranteed to drive even the most proficient user insane. The first rules of working with etchings are

Tool clasps

don’t expect to use every part on the fret -

These little clasps consist of just 3 parts

some parts are just impossible to bend to

but they encapsulate all the frustrations of

the required shapes and always check that

working with etched sets and they can

the part you are about to make could not

have you pulling your hair out - just when

be made more quickly and easily from

you think you have them assembled they

plastic - it is easy to begin trying to fold

explode into their component parts - one

everything from flat sheet when it isn’t

of which will become lost. This step by

always necessary.

step sequence should help eliminate these problems.

Tools Basic requirements for working with

1 Cut the parts from the fret on a firm

etched sets are standard modelling tools.

surface, scrap plastic card is good for this

A scalpel, tweezers, drill bits and wet and

as it prevents the parts from distorting. Cut

dry sandpaper and good quality fine nosed

the ‘sprues’ as tight as possible and clean

pliers. I was able to find a long nosed pair

any excess with wet and dry.

which are good for bending longer parts. For a more advanced approach you may consider a holding tool to help with folding

2-3 Hold the base plate with the pliers and

parts and a soldering iron for a more

bend with your fingers.

robust assembly.

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4 Fold the handle into a ‘U’ shape and

Working techniques

correct sized hinge pin is inserted and the roll is crimped around the pin for a snug fit.

locate the pins on the strap into the handle. Once they have located, crimp the

We assembled a mudflap from the

handles together using the pliers so as to

awesome Aber 1:16th Tiger 1 set to

12-13 to fold longer edges can be difficult

hold the strap firmly.

demonstrate a variety of techniques.

with short pliers so a folding tool is used. A

5 Flip the strap back so it rests on the

9 The part is trimmed a cleaned up with

push the metal to the desired angle.

handle and hook one of the arms of the

wet and dry.

Alternatively a punch and die set can be

cocktail stick is rolled under the part to

handle onto the pin on the base plate. 6 Hook the other arm onto the base plate.

10 To roll the hinge along the top edge, drill bits make a convenient former, coming

used to hold a part whilst folding. 14 The basic part after rolling and folding.

in consecutive sizes. The stepped edge of 7 Crimp the handles together between the

the folding tool provides a handy support

15-17 90º bends in long thin parts are

two pins to secure the handle firmly.

to push against.

best handled by a folding tool. The

8 Flip over the strap and close the clasp.

11 Once the roll is roughly formed the

Etchmate used here comes with a folding

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blade which locates into a ‘V’ shaped slot

as you bend the part up. 18 You can glue parts together with

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22 Assembling hinges is a fiddly process, I

26 To avoid the risk of solder running into

begin by cutting an oversized pin and this

the hinge a small spot of solder is added

is laid on top of the interleaved hinges.

to the underside of the hinge and this is

superglue but soldering provides a much

put in position before being heated by the

stronger join. Flux is brushed onto the joint

23 Bend up the fingers of the hinge so as

area

to hold the pin making sure that the two parts of the hinge don’t move apart.

19 Low melt solder spreads easily along the joint with the aid of the flux.

Iron. When the solder melts the hinge drops down to be flush with the surface of the mudguard and the heat is removed.

24 Bend the fingers flat and check the alignment.

20 Any excess is cleaned away using a

Rolling

file, wet and dry or by scraping with a

25 Use tweezers to tuck the fingers under

scalpel.

the hinge pin and crimp them tight around

27 This tricky procedure is made much

the pin using pliers.

easier if the part is annealed by heating it

21 The ribs are fitted in the same way

in a gas flame and allowing it to cool 45

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before repeating several times. 28 Once it has cooled, roll the part round a tube and repeat this with tubes of decreasing size, making sure that you roll the part smaller than the finished diameter to ensure a good join. 29 Open out the tube so that the edges can be joined - this part which will be an S mine launcher, has a stepped lip to help the jointing procedure 30 With the joint soldered together you find that the tube is still far from circular so Roll the tube around a similar sized former - I find a paintbrush handle with its gentle taper is ideal for this task, until a perfect shape is obtained.

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