AFV Modeller - Issue 11 - 5 - T34-85

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Adam Wilder builds an accurate 1944 production model

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Ever-Evolving Ideas about Details, Theories and Techniques There are a few famous armored fighting vehicles (AFVs) that

During this article I am going to once again bring to focus one of

continue to be the focus of modeling articles. The ever-evolving

the famous T-34/85 model 1944 (mod 44) tanks which sported the

ideas about details, theories and techniques are much of the

field-welded mattress armor seen during the battle for Berlin

reason why subjects such as the German Panther and Russian T-

pending the closing days of the war. I want to bring to your

34 continue to capture the interest of both new and veteran armor

awareness some details that need to be added and corrected to

modelers alike. To date, I have not read an article about one of

properly backdate the DML T-34/85 mod 44 kit, which is actually a

these famous AFVs (or any AFV) where I had not acquired

model 1945 kit. I will also display some of the construction tricks

something new to improve the next model I produced.

and painting techniques I used to bring both life and history to my model of this fascinating AFV.

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Before We Get Started Over the past few months I have been planning and constructing a diorama with Spanish modeler Carlos Elias called Red Tide that

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will involve several models including this one. As I started to construct this T-34, I remembered the E-mails that have been sent to me as well as the postings I had seen in discussion forums regarding the minor corrections needed to produce an actual T-34/85 mod 44 using the beautiful DML kit. These inquiries, combined with my own interest, propelled me to write a sub-article to Red Tide focusing in detail only on the construction and painting of the T-34/85 mod 44. This completed model will be seen again in an article that discusses the planning, construction and painting of the Red Tide Rising diorama we are currently finishing. Let’s now discuss the construction of the T-34 starting with the turret.

Construction

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The Turret Photo 1 The main corrections needed to accurately re-produce a mod 44 using the DML T-34/85 are on the turret. The outer shell of the turret was assembled first. The casting lines (often mistaken as welds) were detailed using squadron putty. There are many different brands of putties on the market with various characteristics. Squadron putty has the properties that allowed me to get the texture of the casting seams that best resembled my reference photos.

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weld-seam was added using stretched

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sprue and liquid cement. As the liquid cement softens the sprue, texture the surface of the weld using a very sharp hobby knife blade. Brass rod replacement handles and parts from a Royal Model accessory kit can also be seen in the turret photos. With the turret backdated lets move onto the hull.

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Hull Corrections & added details Photos 6 to 7 I started the T-34/85 mod 44 hull by assembling parts B8, B9 and G5. There are a few parts that need to be glued to the hull’s underside. The hull has a protrusion (my guess is a design flaw) that needs to be filed smooth to allow part M4 to rest properly on the chassis. The holes in the

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hull side for the cylindrical fuel mounts had sheet plastic inserted and glued into them. After the glue had dried putty was added over the filled holes and sanded smooth.

Photos 8 to 10 Next I removed the fenders from the hull side. I wanted to have the front and rear fender segments not present on the completed model to display a bit of the

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tank’s rough wartime existence. Omitting the front fenders will make visible some unseen areas on the hull front that should be detailed. I started detailing the hull front by adding sheet plastic under the glacis plate to achieve the proper thickness. The upper front of the lower hull was then filed to accommodate the new upper hull thickness. A strip of plastic was added to

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Photos 2 to 3

Photos 4 to 5

There are two bulges on the DML turret

The larger diameter single hinged

that were present on the T-34/85 1945

commander’s hatch was common on

variants that must be removed when

1945 T-34/85 and SU-100 AFVs. The

constructing 1944 models. The protrusion

smaller double-hinged cupola seen on T-

on the turret side and bulge to

34 variants prior to 1945 was confiscated

accommodate the larger single cupola

from a DML SU-85M. Sheet plastic needed

were carefully removed using a rotary tool.

to be added to the opening on top of the

For ease of construction, details were

Tamiya putty is great for texturing surfaces

turret to accommodate the smaller

added to the upper part of the hull before it

and was used to blend the tooled areas

diameter cupola.

was glued to the lower part. It is important

with the rest of the cast surface.

After gluing the new cupola in place, a

to notice that the gussets on the upper hull

the lower hull to improve the fit of part F6. Part F6 also needs to be extended with sheet plastic to its proper length as a result of the model having no front fenders.

Photos 11 to 12

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that protect the larger T-34/85 turret have

welds were added to where the upper and

are fine. The odd-shaped piece of plastic

been replaced. I originally intended to

lower front plates meet as well as the front

on the front driver’s side of the hull

convert this model into a T-34/76 so I

itself.

represents a former hit that probably once disabled the tank. Most of the tanks that

ground them away. There is nothing wrong

fought in the Russian army during the

with these molded-on details. Leave them just as they are.

Photo 15

second war were brought back to field repair areas or factories to have battle

Parts that I think are fuel covers need to be removed from the hull top, then reconstructed to represent those seen on 1944 T-34 variants. The Royal Model brass louvers were also added during this time of the model’s construction for obvious reasons. Pieces of sheet plastic were used to reinforce the fit of the inner brass parts. If these parts break loose after the hull is assembled it would be very difficult to re-attach them properly.

More brass rod handles were used in place of the plastic ones provided in the

armor were clad by plates of scrap steel

diameter as the brass rod you are using,

and welded. Details such as the plate,

drill holes into the hull where they are to be

missing fenders and others add history

placed, then insert the brass handles. The

and life to any model.

handles were glued in place with the aid of a spacer. Thinned putty was placed around the handles where they were inserted into the hull and sanded smooth. I found the two resin hatches in my sparehull front. I think Jaguar manufactured

After assembling the lower and upper hull,

made fit for the battlefield. Holes in the

kit. Simply find a drill bit that is the same

parts box that are seen on the turret and Photos 13 to 14

damage repaired and the vehicle again

Brass Details The assembly of the model until now required a lot of handling. Because brass parts can be easily broken away, I like to finish as much of the model as possible

these hatches some time ago. Although

before adding them. With most of the

the detail on these resin hatches is a little

plastic parts assembled, I started cutting

finer, the hatches included in the DML kit

the brass parts from their frets.

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Photos 16 to 17

Soldering

I cut my brass parts from the frets using

Photos 18 to 19

$7.00 soldering iron purchased long ago at an electronics store. All of the

my hobby knife and a rigid piece of 304

purchased in the U.S. at Radio Shack.

stainless steel. You can probably consult a

The etched-brass Royal Model fenders and

local metal shop and have them cut you a

Aber rear transmission cover were cut

piece of this material for a small price. My

from the frets, cleaned using files, formed,

piece of stainless is .125” thick x 12” wide

and then soldered together. Soldering

x 19” long. This rigid surface is also great

takes a bit of practice but is a great means

What I do is dip the soldering wire in the

for construction purposes, as you will see.

of assembling brass and other metal parts.

liquid flux then quickly touch the end of the

Please use safety glasses when cutting

Well-soldered brass parts will be much

hot soldering iron with the wire. If the iron

and working with brass.

stronger, cleaner and last longer than if

is at the right temperature, a bit of solder

using super glue.

will be left on the end of the iron. I then

I bent the fenders using a new product

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consumables you see in photo 18 can be

from Mission Models called the Etch Mate.

There is resistance-soldering equipment on

Also available and purchased separately

the market that can be purchased through

are thin-ridged pieces of tooled steel that

Micro Mark. I have been told that although

aid in obtaining an even bend on the

expensive, resistance solders are effective

longer parts. These pieces are incredibly

and easy to use. Because of reasons

sharp.

regarding cost, I still use the cheaper

Make certain that the soldering wire you purchase has a solid core without flux and is of the smallest available diameter.

apply some more of the liquid flux using an old brush onto the joint of the parts to be soldered. All you need to do is quickly touch the joint and the solder should flow into the seam between the parts being assembled. After soldering, the parts will

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need to be carefully cleaned one or two

sponsons helping to properly align the

times with water and soap to remove all of

fenders while the glue solidified. After

the excess flux and dust.

attaching the fenders, intermittent fillet

Photos 28 to 29 The cylindrical fuel tank holders are the most fragile details on this model and were

welds were then added.

attached last before the mattress armor.

Attaching the Fenders

They were soldered together with the aid Photos 24 to 25

of Tac’ n Stick.

Photos 20 to 23 Pieces of plastic representing flat bars With the fenders assembled, I marked their locations on the hull. Subtle battle damage was added using crimpers. I wanted one of the fenders to be torn away from the hull front to further add history

were placed on the ends of the sponsons

Photo 30

where the missing fenders would have The 10 sets of road wheels included with

attached. Photo 25 shows the extra detail that should be added to the hull if the front

the DML T-34/85 model 1944 were more commonly seen in the model ‘45s. In their

fenders are not present.

place I used a set of road wheels from the

and enhance the appearance of the

old Tamiya T-34/76 model. In my opinion,

completed model. When adding damage to the fenders I kept the side that was to

Other Details

the Tamiya road wheels are still the best of this type on the market. As you can see,

be glued to the hull as straight as possible using the Etch Mate. If this part of the

Photos 26 to 27

some re-engineering of the torsion bars

fender were to become distorted, it would

Subtle battle damage was also added to

are needed to properly align the Tamiya

be very difficult to properly glue to the hull.

the toolboxes. The large piece of plastic

road wheels to the DML models drive and

sheet seen on the bottom of the toolbox is

idler wheels.

I super glued temporary pieces of thickridged sheet plastic to the underside of the

where the part was glued onto the fender.

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Assembling the Bed Spring Armour

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mattress frames using copper sheet but

assembled the sections into the square

found this material too soft for the

frames. I kept each of the angles square

appearance I was trying to capture. Using

while soldering using straightedges and

As with the fenders, toolboxes and other

brass sheet, I first scribed and cut a

squares.

accessories, I envisioned the damaged

number of strips to a width of about 3/32 of

mattress armor as a means of further

an inch. The scissors will roll the strips of

adding history and authenticity to this

brass as you cut them. Flatten the strips

model of the T-34/85. There are a few

using a hard surface and straight edge as

companies on the market who

shown in photo 32, then cut to length.

manufacture etched-brass mattress armor.

There may have been no set dimensions

The Aber set is the best I have seen but I

for their size.

and welded to the outside of the tanks using assorted round and flat stock. In each of the photos I have observed, the bedsprings were incredibly bent with broken welds due to battle and exposure.

used to complete the mattress-armor. Cut

hard surface. Make four or five passes pressing gently on the hobby knife. If you press too hard on the knife you will only tear the screening.

small. Even more, each of the mattresses

These mattresses were crudely assembled

company called K & S Engineering was

them to size using a straight edge on a

thought the mattresses were a little too

on the Aber set is etched in one piece.

Brass screening manufactured by a

Photo 33 After being cut, the lengths of brass were

Photos 37 to 38

bent to 90-degree angles. The perfectly square machined edge of the Etch Mate is perfect for obtaining these bends when pressing the inserted part against a hard

Brass rod and strips were used as standoffs to attach the mattress armor to the hull. Make sure you file the cut edge of the rod flat so it butts square against the frame. It is

flat surface as shown.

important that you get a well-soldered joint between the brass rod and frame. View the Photos 31 to 32 Not content with what was available, I decided to construct my own bedspring armor. I originally started constructing the

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soldered joints in photo 38. It is obvious that

Photos 34 to 36

the soldered joint on the right is much more The frames of the mattresses were

sound around the rod and less likely to

soldered together. First I soldered a

break then the one on the left.

number of 90-degree sections, then

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Photos 39 to 40

Photo 41 to 42

The mattress armor was located and

Small lengths of rod were also soldered to

placed one at a time onto the model’s hull.

the bottom of the flat standoffs as shown

Despite all of the work done to this point

I first drilled a hole to the diameter of the

in photo 41. Attaching the flat standoffs to

we still need to accurately paint the model.

standoff into its approximate location on

the model in this manner will give you a

All of the battle damage on the fenders,

the T-34. Next, slide one of the rods into

stronger removable attachment.

the rear transmission screen and the

locate each mattress when they are reattached to the model after painting.

the hole and mark the locations of the

mattresses displays a T-34 that has seen a

other three rods on the hull and turret

lot of action. It is just as important that the

using a pencil. Once the locations for the

Use Your Imagination

models finish reflects this as well.

other three rods are marked, remove the mattress and drill the holes. The holes will never be aligned perfectly with the standoffs. This misalignment will certainly work to your advantage because the tension on the rods will hold the mattresses in place without glue, allowing them to be removed for painting.

When studying the few available photos of anti-Panzerfaust armor, it appears there was no specific layout in which they were

Painting

attached to the AFVs. They were also very

Although the average allied vehicle did not

exposed and were easily damaged. Like

have the elaborate camouflage schemes

the fenders, the mattress armor was also

common on German AFVs, their typical

randomly broken up, ripped and bent.

green finishes can still be exciting if you

Make sure you take some photos of the

know the tricks. You should also view

assembled model so you can properly

colored photos of modern armor to better

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Markings and Accessories

understand how dust and mud collected

airbrushing the varnish, the model will be

on vehicles. Because of the battle damage

glossy in appearance. This glossy finish will

evident in the construction, this vehicle

be reduced as we apply each of the

needed to be dusty and scratched. Let’s

following steps, resulting in an appearance

After letting the oils set for a few days I

start by applying the base coat.

of painted steel.

added the markings. Our fun-loving

Photo 6

amigos over at MIG Productions have

Base Coat

Photos 4 to 5

Photos 1 to 3

Artist oils were added over the base coat

released a whole range of Soviet DryTransfers.

to enhance the color of the model, subtly Vallejo-Air acrylic paints are trickier to airbrush then Tamiya paints. Vallejo-air paints also do not adhere to the model as well as other available paints but their finishes are superb. I thin my Vallejo-air paints using both tap water and Vallejo brand retarder.

reduce the gloss of the varnish. Use

painted solid. Runs were added to the stripes and numbers for authenticity.

vertical strokes when blending the oils on the model’s sides. Make sure your brush is damp with turpentine and not soaked or you will simply achieve an unwanted wash during this important step. Use different

After airbrushing the base, lighter shades

mixtures of the oils to slightly highlight

of green were airbrushed to the upper

details such as hatches and toolboxes.

Photos 7 to 9 The wheels and spare track were painted using acrylics. Rust-colored oil and enamel paints were used to detail the spare track. The steel areas present from where

parts of the model resulting in an artificial

components where torn away were also

shadowed appearance. The base was

painted.

finished with a coat of gloss-varnish. After

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blend the lighter green over-sprays and

The white stripes were first outlined, then

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Chipped Paint 10

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Photos 10 to 12 Lighter areas of green were added to the model focusing on the sheet metal components as well as around the corners of the hull and turret. Areas of rust using a mixture of oils and enamels were then added to the areas of green. View the close-up photos of the completed model to better understand both the appearance and placement of the paint chips. The amount of chips added to a model should coincide with the vehicle’s age and use.

Earth Colours Photos 13 to 15 Because of the model’s supposed environment I wanted to make it very dusty in appearance but with minimal mud. A coat of Tamiya Dark Earth was airbrushed under the chassis and randomly onto the upper hull as a base for the light mud and dust. Light fresh mud was added to the model using a mixture of enamels, oils, varnish and pigments. Lightly blend this mixture using turpentine. Mixes of lighter colored pigments were carefully applied over the damp mud.

Photos 16 to 18 The greatest advantage of using pigments from MIG Productions is their flexibility. There are many ways that these pigments can be easily applied giving an extremely realistic looking weathered appearance to scale models. This is how I applied them to this dusty T-34/85. I would recommend viewing photos of T34s in urban battles for ideas. I brushed the pigments onto the model’s horizontal areas with a big dry brush, then blended them using enamel thinner. More pigments were added onto the fenders as a result of stepping by the tank’s operators and infantry. Not every surface of the model needs to be evenly covered during this step.

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On the model’s horizontal and angled

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Extra Touches

dry as shown in photo number 16. Rain marks were then simulated in the pigments using an old small brush dampened with turpentine. In photo 18 the rain marks were subtly blended again with the use of a dry brush.

Running Gear Photo 19

Photos 20 to 22 I added a few important details to the T34/85 before the mattress armor was finished and re-attached. The insides of

The track was painted with a base cote of

help you achieve the different shades of rust. Graphite was lightly rubbed over the mattresses before they were re-attached to the model.

the fuel straps were painted gray and

The mattresses should reinsert into their

weathered with rust colored pigments.

proper locations without much effort. You

Graphite was added to areas of the model

might need to ream the holes with a small

to represent polished surfaces. A mixture

drill to remove any excess paint interfering

of pigments, varnish, and enamels were

with their fit. The mattress armor should

used to represent stains of spilled fuel.

re-fit into place without the use of glue. Some of the standoffs on my mattress

Tracks from Friulmodel were used in place of the plastic ones supplied with the kit.

rust different on each of the angles and screens. Mix the pigments with the paint to

surfaces, I again brushed on the pigments

Painting the Mattress Armour

armor needed to be glued on the inside of the hull and turret to keep them in location.

Tamiya Flat-earth and weathered just like under the chassis of the model. An artist pencil was used to represent wear on the inside of the track while sandpaper was used to finish the outside. Both the running gear and track were added to the model at this time.

Photos 23 to 25 Photo 26 A base-coat using a mixture of acrylics was first airbrushed onto the pieces of mattress armor. Rust was added to the mattress armor using oil and enamel paints and pigments. Make the coats of

Lots of dust and sparks are created when paint is present during a welding operation. Dust and sparks were added at the hull where the standoffs were supposedly welded.

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Summary and the Base It is important that you study photos prior to construction when building models of AFVs. The trick to a realistic looking model is to keep the battle damage proportional to the painting and weathering. Keeping this in mind when modeling is crucial to helping you add an interesting appearance to any model including a typical green allied subject. The base seen in the pictures of the finished T-34/85 was constructed to both serve as a temporary display for this article and help me to practice my rubble painting skills in anticipation for the Red Tide Rising project. During that article I will display how brick is painted. Thank You • Parts for this model were provided by Mission Models at: www.missionmodels.com. • MIG Jimenez at www.migproductions.com for his DryTransfers finishing advice during my stay at his wonderful home.

References: • Zaloga, S. J. & Sarson, P., (1994). New Vanguard No. 9, T-34/76 Medium Tank 1941 - 1945. Great Britain: Reed International Books. • Zaloga, S. J., Kinnear, J. & Sarson, P., (1996). New Vanguard No. 20, T-34/85 Medium Tank 1944 - 1994. Great Britain: Reed International Books. • Zaloga, S. J., Kinnear, J., Aksenov, A. & Koshchavtsev, A., (1997). Soviet Tanks in Combat 1941 - 1945. 603-609 Castle Peak Rd.: Concord Publications Co. • Zaloga, S. J. & Grandsen, J., (1981). T-34 in Action. Carrollton, Texas 75006: Squadron/Signal Publications, Inc.

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