AFV Modeller - Issue 22 - 8 - Stug (Stug III B)

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Mark Neville builds a Stug III B

fter returning to our hobby a few years back after a break of some 17 years, an early StuG was always on my list of ‘must do’ projects. The hobby I enjoyed so much as a child has changed dramatically since the mid-eighties, it was almost overwhelming - think of everything that’s been released over the past two decades dropped on you all at once! Etched brass, aftermarket tracks, resin detail and turned metal barrels. I soon learned after about a year of ‘dabbling’ the quality of models produced now is due to these advances along with the new styles in finishing. I love to see the variety of finish and presentation within armour modeling, and we would find it all a little boring if everyone's work looked the same.

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The main inspiration for this model came when I picked up a

some thin brass sheet and cut them out. A folding tool was

copy of the Fedorowicz book by Heinrich Engel ‘7,000

used for the various bends and angles, and the tread plate

kilometres in a Sturmgeschutz ‘ fascinating reading and a

added , then damage added with pliers using photos as

superb collection of his personal photographs. It contains a

reference.

couple in particular, which I have based this scene on of a

I wanted to model an early B as I love the look of those early

vehicle of Batterie 660 in Russia.

drive sprockets and these are the Fruil offerings in white metal along with their superb 36 cm track. The stowage and racks are

The kit is the Italeri / Dragon StuGIII B- a great kit, goes together

scratch built, the tarpaulin is made from Duro putty simply rolled

very well and only requires a few minor corrections if you deem

thin and laid over various packs from the spares box.

it necessary . The main one is the shape of the rear armour panel, which I have made from plastic card, along with the body

With building complete I undercoated everything with a Tamiya

to hull flange and bolt detail. A lot of the bolt detail is very soft

matt light grey, mainly to kill the colour contrast between the

and I’ve replaced most with etched brass or Grant Line ones

brass and the plastic and check for any extra work before

throughout. Some weld seams and wiring have been added

proceeding.

working from references along with superior tools and fittings

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from Tamiya. The very comprehensive Aber set adds a lot of

I enjoy the painting and weathering of models far more than the

finesse to the finer details and fittings, especially the mudguard

building, sometimes I think I should perhaps spend more time

fittings and the usual tool clamps. There are many parts of the

on the build, but I just like to get to the painting as quickly as

Aber set to detail behind the gun mantlet, which is missing in

time allows. My modeling time is at best about 4-5 hours per

the kit, so I’ve deliberately omitted the canvas cover often used

week fitted in around 3 young children, work etc…oh, and my

in the field.

lovely wife (she might read this…) I still manage to knock a

I wanted to represent damaged mudguards as shown in the

project out every couple of months. My painting technique as

photos. As all I had to hand was some tread-plate sections in

been led, I suppose, by the need to ‘get on’ as quickly as

etched brass from Elephant, I carefully traced the kit parts onto

possible with the different stages. Mixing mediums I have found

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is the best way to cut down on drying times between stages of

monotone look of the grey. Markings only consist of balkencruz

painting and weathering and has produced some interesting

to each side and unit marking on the front mud guard, and

effects. I use a mix of paint mediums, Humbrol enamels, Tamiya

these were cut from masking film and sprayed.

acrylics, Rowney oils, Windsor & Newton gouache, Magic Color

After a day or so drying I took some latex liquid mask and a torn

ink and pastel chalks, probably only six to ten colours of each. I

and teased out ‘Scotch-brite’ type sanding pad. The Scotch-

think grey vehicles are difficult to bring ‘alive’ and produce a

brite is daubed into the masking fluid and the excess wiped off,

pleasing but realistic result and I wanted to try and break up that

this is then lightly brushed across the surface of the model

monotone drab finish.

leaving small areas and ‘scratches’ of masking fluid. Pay attention to areas of high wear as the masked areas will later

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I started with a base coat of Tamiya XF24 through my

represent areas where dust has been scuffed off or scratched

Aerograph Sprite over everything except the tracks and

away. For the dust colour I use a gouache mix of white, with a

stowage. I let this dry about half an hour and added some panel

touch of yellow and black applied with the airbrush heavily on

shading using watered down black Magic Color ink using my

the running gear and lower hull and just mottled on the upper

Olympus airbrush at low pressure and I also used the same mix

hull. The next step is taking a damp (with water) brush and

to subtly add false shadow to certain panels using paper masks

'moving' some of the dust colour around, allowing it to wash into

with the upper most panels lighter. This was repeated using

corners as the real dust would. If you've never tried gouache

some blue ink in the same way just enough to break up the

then give it a whirl. It dries dead flat and can be washed away

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and re-done if there's something you're unhappy with similar to

mix of black and burnt umber oils with thinner and use a fine

powder pigments. Gouache is also excellent for brush painting

pointed brush to 'pin wash' around small details and into panel

fine details and markings, subsequent washes and work with

lines. Along with this I lay an overall burnt umber wash across all

thinners don't disturb the water-based gouache, and like oil

the running gear. To add some artificial shadow, break up and

paints, a few tubes last a long time.

add some depth to that grey I use what commonly is referred to now as 'filters' with heavily diluted oil colour, white and yellow

Before the dust colour has dried properly, remove the liquid

ochre for high lights and black and cobalt blue for panels in more

mask. I find the best way is with a scrunched up piece of

shadow. This just emphasises the subtle tonal changes made

masking tape formed into a point and simply 'dab' and pull away

after the base coat was applied. Vertical streaks are added with

the latex, or tweezers for more stubborn areas. I also use a

heavily diluted oils to represent dirt carried by rain.

moistened cocktail stick to scratch away the 'dust' in areas such

Now I am ready to paint the smaller details and wear and tear.

as where foliage or branches will have brushed across the

All the tools are painted with a mix of enamels and oils, using

vehicle or where the crew would gain access, use a damp

the usual wash and gentle dry brushing techniques, scuffing and

paintbrush also to soften any edges you're not happy with. You

chipping to the surfaces is done with a fine brush and oil paint.

can begin work with washes as soon as you're happy the base

Some graphite powder was applied around the hatches and

grey is dry enough, I use Humbrol enamel thinner to dampen

areas of high wear and coloured pencils used for fine scratches

one panel or area at a time. While the thinner is still wet I use a

and scuffs. The running gear and lower hull received tones of

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pastel chalk applied wet and dry. This works well mixed with

just wasn't happy. The solitary figure I decided on was one from

thinner on the tracks over a base coat of dark grey / brown,

the 'Tank' range. I don't think I've seen better than these, he just

when dry it lies in all the recessed detail of the tracks. I then

seemed to fit the situation. I see him as an 'old hand' from

rubbed through to the metal of the tracks on the outer surface

another gun giving some creative criticism. Again the obligatory

and used graphite on the inner surface where the road wheels

Hornet head was chosen to interact with the commander. Both

would run. This more or less finishes the painting, I find returning

figures are painted with a mix of enamels and oils. The

to look at your work after a few days break from modelling will

spectacles lying next to the commander are from the 'Lion Roar'

help you notice a few things you've overlooked and there's

etched brass range.

always something! The base began as a piece of insulation foam. This stuff has a For me, figures can make or break a model. As I've said, a

much tighter texture than polystyrene and can be cut and

couple of photos provided the inspiration for this scene,

sanded with ease, to a very smooth finish if required. I've angled

supporting infantry was the StuG's intended role and I pictured

the shape of the base to add a little interest and give a more

an enthusiastic commander checking his targets in the distance

dramatic appearance. Once the shape was cut and the

while infantry waited for the order to advance.

roadside ditch carved, The groundwork itself is a thin layer of

The figure in the hatch is made from spares with a little

plaster with colour and sawdust added. Various foliage with

conversion, the Hornet head brings him to life with hair made

ground scatter and grasses were pushed into the plaster with

from Humbrol putty. My original plan involved infantry figures, I

the aid of diluted PVA. I try to use natural mosses, fine ferns for

just couldn't find any figures that looked right, I tried many but

foliage on groundwork, dried shrub roots for trees and bushes,

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various herbs etc, they're free, and are natural, and therefore

from the box can look more appealing than something with

have a natural appearance. Base colours were airbrushed dark

huge amounts of detailing and conversion with mediocre paint

and dry brushed with various lighter tones, I find it helps to keep

and weathering.

referring to photographs (or look outside) to get the colours

Over the last few years I've also had a huge amount of help

correct. We refer to photographs when building the vehicles,

from the armour buffers at Tyneside IPMS. This was the club I

someone might not notice if you have your tracks on the wrong

attended as a child and I managed to track them down after

way but would notice if a meadow looked like a putting green....

many years. Thanks to all of you. Being part of a group of so

A final touch on the groundwork that appears in the wartime

many talented individuals can only help in the quest to build

photos is the empty shell cases. I tried to track down some in

better models and enjoy the hobby more. Special thanks to

brass but to no avail, my father in-law came to my rescue and

Grahame Newman and Dean Allison for their constant help with

made a superb job of turning some on his lathe from a brass

reference and information.

and nickel mix material, which when heated over a gas flame it discolours realistically.

References

So, my early StuG. was complete, taking me around two and a

‘7000 kilometres in a Sturmgeschutz‘, Heinich Engel, JJ

half months in total. I only work on projects one at a time, I find

Fedorowicz

this helps to focus, and in turn, complete a model in reasonable time before your mind starts to wander to the next project. With

‘Sturmgeschutz III’ MK35 Editions

the models I build I also consider how much construction they will involve. With my limited time and my pleasure mostly

‘Achtung Panzer’ Sturmgeschutz

coming from the painting, I wouldn't take anything on that would take months to just build. There are so many quality kits released these days, and I think a well painted kit built straight

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‘Achtung Panzer’ Panzer III