Issue 68 cover_Issue 26 cover 05/12/2012 17:12 Page 1
THE VERY BEST IN SCALE ARMOUR MODELLING
68
AFV Modeller
January / February 2013
January / February 2013 £6.50 UK $14.95 www.afvmodeller.com
D Y N A M I C
DIORAMAS Five stunning dioramas!
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AFV-68 Jan-Feb 2013_AFV/26 Jan/Feb 06 06/12/2012 10:24 Page 1
CONTENTS 2
Berlin 1945 This first part of Aitor Azkue’s stunning riverside diorama
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‘Catch Me If You Can’ Volker Bembennek’s derelict museum yard Stug III diorama
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‘That’s All, Fritz’ Jorge Porto describes his build and the story behind his Normandy diorama
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‘Reich Defenders’ Roberto Aguilera’s dramatic Flak 38 based diorama
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‘This Happened In Budapest’ Dénes Benedek recreates a scene from the seige of Budapest
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Keeping Track More new releases
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Spanish RG31 Mk.5 Part Two Angel RuizMartinez de Medinilla concludes his impressive scratchbuild project with the painting and weathering of his RG31
Seasonal good wishes to all our readers from everyone at AFV Modeller!
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PART ONE • AITOR AZKUE’S
BERLIN 1945 At the end of World War II German cities were being conquered by the Allied armies. The Germans made a desperate defence, fighting street by street, often with vehicles designed more for open battlefields, than for the confines of urban combat where they had to manoeuvre through narrow streets and dodging all kinds of different obstacles and abandoned vehicles. In this diorama I wanted to make one such scene where a city street a German tank section and a heavy tank unit of the SS has been ordered to defend that sector. A King Tiger has taken up position under a railway bridge on top of which there are remains of a wagon with a spotlight operating in support of an Ostwind anti-aircraft tank, now abandoned, like a nearby Stug III, which has suffered the same fate... Meanwhile, a group of officers have gathered to discuss the organisation of their defensive plans. 2
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THE BUILDINGS For the construction of the buildings I usually use MDF sheet, which serves as a skeleton or base, to support the different materials that make up the finishes and give texture to the fronts of them. Once I have cut the holes for doors and windows I start lining this with small ‘bricks’ made of 2 x 7mm cork with a thickness of about 2mm. I individually glued with cyanoacrylate whilst leaving a small gap between them. After drying the brick wall was gently sanded with fine sandpaper to remove any raised edges and I applied a tile grout across the brickwork. The next step is to use a cloth to remove the excess and to push the grout in between the bricks into the small gaps previously created when they were glued. This realistically creates the mortar between bricks.
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Once dry, the painting can begin. The walls of the buildings are first painted with acrylic paints before being given a worn effect using pastels. Cork is a very easy material to work with, allowing me, with an X-Acto knife, to simulate impact damage of all kinds of calibers by just digging into the surface. On the lower parts of the buildings I have simulated the typical stepped entrance of the houses in this part of Europe, by overlapping pieces of Evergreen plastic to make these steps.
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The roof of the main building was covered with fine waterproof sandpaper simulating stucco texture perfectly. Different sized wooden rods (used in ship modelling) are glued to create the roof structure. Thin wooden slats create the attic floor, and the slates were simulated with pieces of cardboard, cut to size and individually hung to the rafters. The window frames and doors were also created with Evergreen strip and rod sections.
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THE BRIDGE For the construction of the bridge, plastic was the predominant material used, both in the structure, the railings, trusses, etc. Once the basic structure of the bridge span was built I added the brick base from cork over the lower parts of the pillars with the same techniques as I used on the buildings. Finally I added the railway track using Trumpeter’s track but with new wooden sleepers. The dangling wires are made using different fine threads.
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THE STREET The cobbled street was created using Verlinden resin cobblestone sections, several sections were used once glued these must be blended at the joints between the panels using DAS putty, otherwise this would give an uneven effect to the ground. The cobbles were painted with a random distribution of colours and this was then given an overall treatment with a mix of powdered pigments brushed over and rubbed into the gaps. I also added track marks painted with a brush, but I also applied paint to some old tracks and pressed them onto the surface too. It is very important and you do not see much ‘modern’ asphalt in the diorama.
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THE RIVER
The streetlights are from MIG Productions and the railings overlooking the river are built with horizontal metal rods while the vertical posts are from ‘Artesania Latina’, a manufacturer of Ship Modelling accessories. The river was created by first painting the bottom of this area with different green-brown shades and then adding successive thin layers of artificial water from Andrea, allowing each layer to dry well before adding the next. Between these layers you can paint slightly and add small items to give a sense of depth. When the correct depth is almost achieved I started to create the rippled water surface by pressing the back of a spoon into the resin before it had completely set. The water from the outflow pipe was built up gradually using Vallejo Water Effects to paint in the different white water effects
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T HI S PROJ ECT C ON C LUD ES I N T HE N EXT ISSUE ...
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Rusty STUG “CATCH ME IF YOU CAN”
From time to time we see stories in magazines or on the Internet concerning wrecks which are found after more than sixty years somewhere in rivers, marshes or in old fortifications. For example the Sturmgeschütz IV, which was recovered in 2006 from a river in Poland, or the StuG III with "Winterketten" (winter-tracks) found in Demyansk and the famous "Littlefield Panther". The inspiration to build this little scene came from several pictures of unrestored Finnish assault gun vehicles. Inspired by countless images of various wrecks, I decided to represent my model in a small scene set in an old museum backyard somewhere in the present. The Sturmgeschütz is a late production
example, which is in a quite desolate condition, being examined by two museum employees for a possible imminent restoration. My goal was to make the vehicle and the backyard look quite neglected and to give the whole a certain "junk yard" flair. I also wanted to show as much interior details of the Sturmgeschütz as possible. The little humoristic scene with the dog, the cat and the overturned table should represent here a contrast to the otherwise dreary atmosphere of the museum's yard. The title "Catch me if you can" refers to both the cat and the dog, as well as the assault gun and the restorers.
Volker Bembennek’s StuG III Ausf.G late production
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Preparation Obviously a model of this type cannot be built out of the box, planning before the start of the construction is important. Considerations included the modifications to the Dragon kit, which represents an early assault gun to a planned late version and In what state should the wreck be shown. The latter also affects how to represent the interior and therefore the further details and how to produce them. The Interior - Lower Hull Since I wanted to represent my vehicle without the floor of the fighting compartment the entire torsion bar
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suspension of the lower hull is visible, the Dragon Smart kit 6320 provided me with an outstanding basis for my project.
1 Here one sees the rusted through partition between engine compartment and fuel tank. Likewise the opening in the hull floor plate and the bolt holes for the missing cover plate.
The first section of the instructions is dealing exactly with the installation of the torsion bar suspension, which is very fine and detailed. According to some original images, 4 cross-carriers existed as a basis for the actual fighting compartment floor, which I created from Evergreen plastic material. Following the instructions of the CMK set for the driver's compartment, I built a few more details in this area (pedals for the driver, underframe of the transmission etc).
2 The actual fuel tank I made from plastic profiles and some thin aluminium foil before adding the lid and filler neck.
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3 The area of the driver with the removed left steering brake. 4 The right side of the fighting compartment with a view of the gun carriage. 5 Overview of all components of the fighting compartment. 6 The underside of the gear cover was detailed accordingly.
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The Interior - Engine Compartment Components which normally are invisible had to be reproduced working from original photos and drawings. The most elaborate detail within the engine compartment area is the reproduction of the fuel tank. Here I first built the outer container in plastic card, I also added some damage and holes within this area due to the weathering and corrosion. Some cables and wires add to the finished appearance of the stripped-out engine. The Fighting/Drivers Compartments The compartment of the Driver was built to a large extent on the basis of the instructions from the resin CMK set, I also added some cables to the transmission according to original pictures. The Driver's seat, which should be shown somewhat rotted over the years, was rebuilt in copper wire and the backrest was represented without the upholstery. I wanted also to represent the left sprocket wheel, including all components of the steering brakes within this area completely removed.
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All components, which were installed on the external area, like e.g. the return rollers, the shock absorbers, the connecting plates between lower hull and superstructure etc. were bolted on the original. Therefore, all screw heads and nuts in the internal area had to be copied with the help of Nuts & Bolts set from Calibre35.
The Gun Because of the missing floor of the fighting compartment, the complete gun carriage as well as the attachment points at the lower hull had to be copied. The 75mm StuK should be in destroyed condition, i.e. shown in full recoil. The Dragon kit already includes a finely detailed replica of the main gun. The substructure of the gun carriage needed to be replicated by plastic profiles working from reference of original images.
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The Superstructure The rear wall of the component C23 is too thick and out of scale if displaying without the roof panel. I removed the rear wall carefully along the weld seams with the help of a sharp scalpel. Subsequently, a new rear wall was completely cut out of plastic card. The interior and exterior of this newly-built rear wall also had to be detailed and the flange to fit the roof plate was constructed from Evergreen plastic strips, which I drilled out appropriately. All welding seams had to be applied with Magic Sculp. 7 Overview of the completed casemate. 8 The exterior of the rear of the casemate with the battle damage. 9 A view of the left side of the interior.
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Constructing the Exterior A vehicle exposed to weather conditions and the seasons for over sixty years will suffer from rust, moss, decay, and also souvenir-hunters. The base for many of these effects are already applied during the construction phase and then later with the painting. On the lower hull and the chassis some parts were not installed, as for example some road wheels and return rollers. With the return rollers, I used the later version from the Revell kit. At the points on which the return rollers are missing completely, I added the three retaining screws with appropriate pieces of
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copper wire. The fenders as well as the metal angles for bolting the lower hull with the superstructure are parts of the Voyager set. At the front of the vehicle I represented both maintenance hatches of the steering brakes in open position and added some missing details. The usual barrel bracket on late versions of the Sturmgeschütz are again a part from the Revell kit, however refined on the basis of original photographs and with the help of the Aber PE set.
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Painting the Interior Thorough research and studying countless original photographs is an absolute must before one can dare to begin the actual painting work of a project such as this. Many points need consideration, such as, ‘How were these vehicles once painted and how they deteriorated after decades of the weathering?’, ‘Which material was used for the individual components (steel, sheet metal, rubber etc.) and how these different materials react when they are exposed to the weather?’ The best way to represent heavy chipped paint is the hairspray technique. First apply hairspray between two layers of paint, then the upper layer can be partially removed using warm water, which dissolves the hairspray exposing the first layer. The airbrushed colours used are from the Tamiya range, then acrylic paints from Vallejo and Lifecolor were used for detail painting and weathering..
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1 The first step was to prime the entire interior with a dark steel colour. 2 The model next receives the rust protection primer in a lightened colour. All colours should already have a faded shade during the priming.
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3 After the red base colour has had sufficient time to dry, I covered the entire interior with two to three thin layers of hairspray. For a finer and more controlled application, I filled it directly into the airbrush. Then the appropriate areas were painted in ivory white and subsequently weathered. This was done with the help of warm water, several paint brushes and a toothpick. Here, the appropriate place was moistened with some warm
water, which dissolves the hair spray under the white paint layer. Subsequently, these areas have been carefully chipped with the various paint brushes. For small scratches, I used a toothpick. 4 Several filters with Lifecolor and Vallejo acrylic paint was applied. 5 The finished front portion of the vehicle. Many different filters were applied in the area of the floor. The rust streaks were developed with the colours from the set of the Lifecolor Diorama series. 6 The finished painted and weathered gear box. It is much easier to paint this component separately and subsequently insert it into the model.
7 The finished front area. A multitude of small details, such as the old magazines, the Coke bottle, the old oil can etc. significantly contribute to a realistic appearance. The water was made with two-component casting resin from the Faller. The moss is a powdered sponge that comes from Woodland Scenics. 8 The engine compartment was painted and weathered in the same manner as already described in the front area. However, here different red and orange hues were used instead of the ivory white. The fern is an etched part from Aber.
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Painting the Exterior After all the work was completed in the interior this area was completely masked with Tamiya masking tape. I used the same methods with the painting of the external area as already before with the interior. That is, priming - hair spray - base paint chipping.
progressed. Therefore, I worked further different colours into the model surface. Partly as filter or mapping and also speckled with a paint brush.
1 The first step was the application of a rust colour. This consisted of a mix of Tamiya acrylic colours. Instead of a rich layer of paint, one should work here with several highly diluted colours and in a cloudy manner.
5 After a sufficient time to dry, I covered the entire area with two to three thin layers of hair spray. This was followed by the second colour layer, consisting of a bleached out red primer tone.
2 This rust-colour, which was applied in the first step, now had to be further refined. Rust has a quite colourful appearance in reality, depending on what rusts and how far the corrosion has
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3 With a hard bristled paint brush, the paint was dabbed or stippled onto the model, similar to the sponge technique. 4 The completely rusted surface, ready for further processing.
6 With the help of warm water, several paint brushes and a toothpick, the rust colour was then removed at selected locations. Subsequently, these areas have been carefully chipped with the various paint brushes.
7 After a further layer of hair spray now followed the sand yellow base colour of the vehicle. Subsequently, this layer of colour was reworked in the same way as described previously. 8 The model after completion of the airbrush work and the hairspray technique.The three different layers of colour are now very effective. 9 For the further weathering and dusting, several different brown acryl colours from Vallejo were applied ‘wet on wet’ to the model surface (872 chocolate brown, 825 cam.pale violet brown, 873 US field drab, 916 sand yellow, 837 pale sand). 10 The finished lower hull. Details, such as the graffiti offer more interest to the model. These were created with dry transfers from model railway suppliers.
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The Museum Backyard Now it was time to think about a suitable base for the model. The aim of this should be to support the mood, the atmosphere and basically supplement the whole story. I divided the construction of the base into three elements, which I worked on separately in each case. These were the base itself and the two background elements, the fence and the tree. I decided to cast the individual paving slabs from plaster and place them individually.
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The Tree There are some good methods and techniques to produce realistic trees. Basis are nearly always natural plant parts such as roots and small branches. With this tree I used pieces of roots from an appropriate plant for the trunk and the larger branches. The bark on the trunk was modeled with Magic Sculpt.
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The Fence The fence forms a background to the scene and completes the impression of a locked museum area. The posts of the fence are from Evergreen plastic profiles and some copper wire. The actual fence consists of a wire mesh fabric from a railway modelling supplier. The front part of the fence was embellished with all kind of scrap iron and accessories, whereby the most of it are parts of the Sturmgeschütz. The old refrigerator and the oil cans come from PlusModel.
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The Figures and the Story If you want to tell a story with a model or create a certain atmosphere, the inclusion of one or more figures is of a great help. Only by the body language, the facial expressions, gestures and possibly the interaction of the characters among themselves it is possible to tell the viewer the background and the history of the scene. Since each figure was adapted individually to the scene, some areas had to be partially modified and converted. The two figures are from Warriors, the dog comes from Doug's Original and the cat is by Andrea all painted exclusively with acrylics.
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aint-Marcouf is a small village located
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in the region of Calvados, Normandy. This village, liberated by the Parachute Regiments of the 82nd and 101st
Airborne Divisions and used as a holding center for prisoners, famous for being located very close to the Crisbecq battery found on the outskirts of the village of Crisbecq. The battery should have been taken on the night of June 5 by the 1st Airborne Division, something that proved impossible due to the disorganization of the paratroopers after the jump. After intense bombardment by sea and, by air, as well as attacks by infantry forces finally the battery was evacuated on the night of June 11, being taken the morning after by the 39th Regiment of the 9th Infantry Division.
THAT’S ALL,
FRITZ Modelled by Jorge Porto
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The House My diorama is based around a heavily
of the main house. Again using strips of
damaged house which I built using one of
wood, then roof tiles using strips of
the excellent Miniart vacuum formed
evergreen (No. 128) that have curves at the
building kits. The main drawback of the
ends. I also used copper wires in ‘L’ shapes
Miniart houseis that the model does not
that would act as the supports for the tiles
provide the various floors. To achieve this I
in the wood framework. At the same time I
used planks and beams of balsa wood
detailed the inside of the shed with brick
which also gives a natural texture of wood. I
textured sections with the intention that,
also took the opportunity to rework the roof
once completed these would be visible.
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Both the kit rain gutters and drain
varying the colour of some of the tiles, using brown and green oils to give the effects of damp and moss.
pipes were very poor, so I scratch built them using
Gutters and drainpipes were chipped using
aluminium tubes and sheets of Tin. The
the new AK interactive "heavy chipping" fluid
same goes for the door of the shed, which I
and then treated with a wash using oils
re-created using wooden strips. For the
while the clamps were given a few
frames, Windows and shutters I added
brushstrokes of rusty tones. Finally, for all
texture using a wire brush and, in some
areas of brick I mixed the pigments gulf
places I broke parts to replicate damage
sand P037 and Europe dust P028 by MIG
and with the help of a cutter tip, I made
productions and with MIG solvent all the
small holes to simulate bullet holes.
surfaces were given a wash. The excess was removed by rubbing my finger over it
To paint the the outside of the house, I
once it had dried. For the wooden floors I
mixed Tamiya XF-57 with a bit of XF-20,
used XF-60, with different thinned brown
adding XF-55 to give light. The House
oils washes applied to different planks and
bricks are brush painted using a matt
fine sandpaper rubbed over them to give a
Brown (984 Vallejo) mixed with a bit of
worn look.
black 950 or brown orange 981, this helped
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to give different tones to the bricks. The
I painted the interior of the House with two
exterior window frames were again brush
distinct colours to give a different
painted using a mixture of Vallejo yellow
ambience. On the upper floor XF-60 adding
sand 916 and sand clear 837. The exterior
a little XF-2 for light, and using XF-60 I
was dry brushed avoiding the areas of
mixed a little of XF-68 to shade corners.
brick. Oil colours helped create the effects
The mix was also used for the picture
of damp, especially under the eaves and
frame stain on the wall.
window surrounds. I mixed green, earth,
On the ground floor (kitchen), I painted the
natural Yellow Ochre, burnt Umber and
walls in white mixed with a bit of XF-57 to
Prussian blue in varying mixes to create the
simulate dirt on the walls. For the lower part
different tones.
of the walls I applied XF-50 and, and once
For the tiles, I used Vallejo red brown 982
dry, scratched away the blue for a worn
adding black 950 or brown orange 981,
look.
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The marble floor was created using a
added footprints using the Caliber 35 boot
picture of a section of tiles taken from the
rubber stamps. In the attic there are
Internet. Printed onto glossy card, It was
suitcases from Plus Models and books by
cut it into squares and stuck onto a
Verlinden as well as scratch built items,
cardboard section, given a generous layer
such as boxes and a carpet, made from
of gloss varnish and finally, with very dilute
two-part putty.
burnt umber oil paint given a wash to age it. Over the different floors of the house I
On the first floor there is the corner unit, a
began sticking individual bricks (pre-
box and curtain, all home made. The
coloured from RB Models) along with
curtain was made using a sheet of Tin and
sections of wooden planks to accentuate
painted while the periscopes are by Tristar,
the feeling of collapse in the house. I added
the Chair, steps and jacket by Verlinden
brown and earth coloured pigments over
and the Bottle and glass by Diopark.
the rubble using Fixer by Mig Productions.
On the ground floor the corner unit is from
Finally I covered the floors with powder to
Verlinden and the rest from Diopark, except
give the feeling of dust, ash and neglect. In
for the Bookshelf that is made from plastic
the case of the first floor, where the
and bottle by Plus Model. For inside of the
observation post is, I avoided any pigments
shed, the tools are from Historex, Verlinden,
in the central area, to give the effect that
and Plus model.
this area was used by the observer and I
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The RSO
photoetched version and the resin engine fitted inside. I added a
At the time this was built the new Dragon kit was not available so
shattered windscreen from clear acetate sheet which was crazed
my model was based on the old Italeri kit with some
with a knife blade. The unusual tripod gun mount is based on
improvements. The load bed was rebuilt from plastic card along
photos that I found on the internet showing a 20mm flak mounted
with a new roof panel for the cab. I used an upgrade set with resin
on the back of an RSO. The flak gun is the Dragon kit built from the
and photoetched parts by Royal Models to improve the detail
box with the exception of a replacement gun barrel. The tripod
which provided new hinges for the drop sides, cab door panels,
mount was scratchbuilt from plasticard working from the online
window frames and engine grilles. In the cab the moulded seats
photographs and a bit of guesswork. The piston arrangement that
were removed and new seat frames were made from copper wire
controls the angles of the legs was made using pieces of brass
ready for the Royal Models resin seats and other details like the
tube and aluminium sheet as well as the usual mix of plastic bolts
foot pedals were also replaced. The access cover for the engine
and washers. A set of Friul metal track links completed the
was cut away to be replaced with a new and improved
modifications to this old kit.
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The vehicle was finished in a typical three colour scheme with the exception of the tripod mount which was left in a red primer finish.
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The groundwork
textures to the ground. The soil was
By glueing several sections of various sizes
painted with XF-52 earth, light areas using
of Styrofoam to the base I could define the
XF-15 and shadows with XF-10. Once dry a
The signpost was made using foam and
different levels also taking the opportunity
first dry brush with Vallejo grey stone 884 to
painted white. For the signboard I used
to create the various elements that form
give more contrast. With a mixture of
photoshop and posters from the era.
the scene To the stone wall I also applied
railway lawn by Noch and Silflor grass
The well was also made with foam covered
plaster and while still wet I placed the
clumps, glued to the ground with a mixture
with a mixture of fine sand, water and white
stones then reinforced it with white glue
of white glue and water, I added green
glue to give it texture and painted with a
and water mixture
areas to the scene, then airbrushed with
mixture of grey oil paints, while the metal
At this point in the build, both the house
matt green XF-5 to give it a unified colour.
parts were done using rust colours. On the
and the tree remained loose so they could
A dry brush of 967 olive green or brown
roof, which was also painted with tones of
be painted comfortably.
gold Vallejo 877 helped me give different
Vallejo rust colours I applied a wash using a
shades to the areas of grass.
military green 975. Finally, with green earth
Polyfiller was applied to all surfaces. During
At this point I unified the colours of the soil
oil a few subtle washes were added to give
this process I kept the areas damp so I
by applying filters MIG P241 Brown, P243
the effect of moss.
could press in the tracks etc. By applying a
Grey, P244 Green and Brown P245 which
mixture of white glue and water, sand and
apply across the surface, especially with
The fence is made from strips of balsa
pebbles were scattered to give different
P245 Brown, applied in the areas where the
wood which have been painted with cold
grass and Earth meet.
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grey colour oil. Mixes of white and black
Extras and add-ins
oils in various percentages were applied
The Tamiya wheel and barrow, which was
with a semi-dry brush until the desired
scratch built using Evergreen, were
texture was achieved.
painted with a Vallejo 988 khaki Brown
Around the foundations of the house I
base then lightened using a white/
stuck various vegetation by Silflor and
parchment 820 mix. With the few metal
railway medelling shrubs, The vines are
areas painted with acrylics, rust tones
made by Eduard and come pre-painted
were applied to the reinforcements of the
and only require a coat of matt varnish as
wheels. The woodpile was made with
they are too glossy. The rest of the
pieces of real branches stacked with
vegetation is a mix of commercial brands,
white glue. Subsequently given a subtle
such as silflor, J’s Work, Joefix Studios
lift with a wash of burnt umber oils. The
and Marutake international.
Flak ammunition boxes are from K59 productions (C-012 2 cm Flak Ammo) and
Figures
Aber (35A89) while the shells are by
For me the figures make up 50% of a
LionRoar.
diorama and add life to the scene. For this diorama I searched through the different
In summary, it has been a long project
brands on the market until I got to what I
lasting nearly 4 years and sometimes
needed. Perhaps the worst being those by
seemed as though it would never end.
Miniart as the quality of the modelling is
However it has helped me discover
not very high and required a great deal of
techniques and new products. I would like
preparation prior to painting however
first to thank my family for letting me enjoy
those by Stalingrad and Warriors were
this hobby (OPM) and my friends “the
almost ready straight out of the box. All
Mochus” for their patience endless help
figures were painetd using the Zenithal
and good advice, but above all for being
light technique
such good people.
The tree At this point its very important to document the type of vegetation and trees that are associated with the location of the diorama. On to a small trunk I added small branches, using twigs of thyme to create the Crown of the tree. Then covered the trunk and branches with washing up powder and while still damp added texture using an old tooth brush later adding deeper cuts and grooves. It was painted starting with a base of green yellow 881. Once dry a 950 black wash making sure to fill the grooves and cracks then a wash with gray stone 884. Once fully dry, a very subtle and selective dry brush was applied with a mixture of grey stone 884 and a little white grey 993 to help give light. The leaves were created using a few small chips of Perlon (chips for aquarium filters) fixed to the branches. Once dry I airbrushed the branches using a mixture of XF-10 and a bit of XF-1 then applied hair lacquer or spray adhesive. While wet I sprinkled some leaves from the Noch brand (ref 07140), little by little, until I was happy with a convincing result.
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Roberto Aguilera’s
REICH D E F E N D E R S
As a film Director one of the things I enjoy most is bringing talent together, and over the years I have been doing this, and this diorama is the result of combining the efforts of talented people, who’s work I admire. Perhaps you might wonder why I am using an old Verlinden building kit with so many nice modern kits out there, and the simple answer is that I don't like buying a kit and not building it. The old Verlinden ‘Rathaus’ kit has been out there forever, but I just felt that I wanted to do the best I could with it, since so many new paints, pigments and techniques have been developed since it was originally released. I wanted to apply them to a building and diorama. One of the things modellers complained about the old Verlinden building kits was the lack of doors and windows, not to mention floors or any other advanced detail and with this in mind construction began.
A well camouflaged Mercedes Enok jeep used by a German reconnaissance unit.
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Extra Verlinden parts where acquired for the front door, furniture and floors, and the addition of Verlinden wallpaper brought the building up to a more acceptable level. Once they were assembled, the Rathaus was mounted into a very nice Redbricks Diorama cobble stone section, very nice with crisp detail, which you can easily find on ebay. Next comes the interesting part, because this is a bombed building you want to enjoy the look of lots of rubble, debris, pieces of wood, and lots of dirt. So I slowly began the process of the realistic groundwork using several different products for this, Woodland Scenic’s cement was key for this task, as it is very strong, dries flat, and very thin. Different kinds of Woodland Scenic rock debris, Talus rock debris, and a very nice couple of Mexican architectural brands. ‘Miniaturas Con Proyecto’, and ‘Conmar’, which both create the finest rocks and debris that I know. It comes in three different colours and its almost like dust, so gluing it is a bit difficult, but the result is great, you can see it clearly in front of the Flak. I also used Royal Model tiles, and finally Hudson & Allen Studio rubble item 9938, I added just a touch of it because there are no bricks involved in this diorama. I slowly added layers and layers of all of these elements along with pieces of balsa wood. To replicate shattered glass I used fragments of crushed Halls menthol cough sweets! It is a very long timeconsuming process but I really like it, love the look and detail of it, I am really keen to try to achieve the best-looking ground possible. First the cobble stone road was primed and then I painted the cobbles stone by stone using Tamiya Acrylics, each stone was 30
AFV-68 Jan-Feb 2013_AFV/26 Jan/Feb 06 06/12/2012 10:26 Page 31
given a slight colour variation. Once it was all painted, stones, debris and dust are carefully applied layer by layer, this is an important part in terms of composition, and each stone is placed individually, and secured in place with Woodland Scenic cement. MiG and Vallejo pigments were used to give life to the debris, layer by layer to achieve a realistic look. Each pass was very subtle, avoiding clumps of pigment, letting each layer dry completely, then magazines, posters, bottles, glass, wood, branches, were added carefully glued and weathered, even a rat from Plus Models was placed under the house floor. The bench is from AM Works, a beautiful piece made of resin and PE, it was hand painted with Vallejo acrylics. The 2cm Flak 38 is from Dragon, pretty much built from the box, and the hard to build ammo boxes and magazines are from Lion Roar PE set. Once assembled they where primed with Gunze Sangyo Mr Surfacer 1200 and this was followed by a coat of Vallejo red primer. Hair spray was applied to the Flak and accessories, and then the camouflage paint was scrubbed off to expose the red. Filters and oils where used to weather them and some MIG pigments complement the finish.
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AFV-68 Jan-Feb 2013_AFV/26 Jan/Feb 06 06/12/2012 10:26 Page 32
The Figures The idea of the entire project was that I have seen very few WWII dioramas with dead bodies, not to mention female figures on it, it’s a very dramatic scene that is not usually seen. Aurora Model from Japan, does a very nice range of female figures in 1:35th scale and award winning master painter Sang Eon Lee from Korea painted the figures, with details beautifully painted using Sonja’s acrylics.
The Tree The base of the tree was scratch built with styrene plastic, the grass is from Mininatur a superb German company specialising in grass and foliage suitable for 1:35 scale. UK company Treemendus owned by my friend Anthony Reeves produce handmade scale model trees which can be built using their own tree kits, available from their website shop. Creating trees like the one shown in the dioramas is achieved using Very fine wire, which is twisted and bent to form the basic tree shape. The wires are then trimmed to a suitable length and the trees shape is further refined. For winter trees with little or no foliage each Individual wire is crimped using fine pliers to give even more detail. Trees that are in leaf will hide all this so crimping them is not always necessary. The wire armature is then given a coat Treemendus ‘Bark Powder’ which is mixed into a thick paste using the glue included in the tree kit, This adds all the texture to the
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tree’s trunk and branches and when dries is very durable. The winter tree in this diorama has had some sea moss added to the wire branches to give a beautiful fine tracery of branches to the tree. The seamoss was airbrushed a suitable colour to Match the existing bark colour on the tree. Once it had been fixed to The tree the whole thing was given a light spray of paint to blend it together. The final process in making the winter tree is to weather it and add some green paint to resemble algae and mosses. Winter trees also look great with a covering of snow on their branches. This was a time-consuming process overall but the results in the end are I think worth it, and my thanks to all who cooperated on this project.
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Budapest Diorama (Checked):Layout 1 05/12/2012 12:59 Page 1
This happened in
Budapest MODELLED AND DESCRIBED BY DÉNES BENEDEK PHOTOS BY ANDRÁS Z. SZÁNTÓ The siege of Budapest in 1944-45 is one of
The great German film studio, UFA took
my favourite subjects of World War II and
over the cinema in the middle of the
this is my 3rd and biggest diorama on this
thirties – the front of the building was
theme. The siege of the Hungarian capital
covered with stone slabs at this time,
lasted for more than one hundred days
concealing the large reliefs on the sides.
until the unsuccessful breakout of the
The building survived the siege in 1944-45
remaining German and Hungarian troops
without serious damage. During the
from the hill of the Royal Castle on Buda
revolution in 1956 the cinema was one of
side. It was one of the longest and
the most important headquarters of the
bloodiest sieges of the war – the Germans
revolutionists and the building was heavily
often called it “second Stalingrad”. In
damaged during the fighting so that it was
addition a very wide range of axis AFV’s
renovated in 1957 and the familiar stone
were encircled in the city providing a rich
cladding was removed. The cinema is still
pickings for us modellers.
operating today.
The idea of this diorama came from a book showing the old cinemas of Budapest. I found a picture of the Corvin cinema at the end of 1943 – one of the biggest and oldest cinemas of the city. It was built in 1922.
34
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Budapest Diorama (Checked):Layout 1 05/12/2012 12:59 Page 3
RESEARCH
36
CONSTRUCTION I couldn't find any photos showing the
I had to raise the whole diorama base
cinema during the 44/45 siege but dozens
because I wanted to build the tunnel
of pictures were taken by the russians on
leading underneath the building from the
the nearby streets after the fighting
fountain. The walls of the tunnel were bent
showing German military equipment and
from styrol plates and the large side walls
weapons scattered all around. Different
of the diorama are from 5mm Depron
types of guns were used for antitank
panels. The walls of the building are also
defence behind barricades, and they show
made from Depron sheet, strengthened
dead German soldiers at the corners, so I
with wooden laths. The damaged part of
could imagine how the scene outside the
the wall was cut from the Depron sheet
cinema might look .
and was replaced by a piece of plaster
I researched which movie was the last
block – so I could scrape the bricks into it.
played at the Corvin (many theatres and
The stone cladding slabs were cut from
cinemas were operating even during the
styrol plates. The doors were made from
siege) but couldn’t find the answer. I
cardboard using Evergreen strips for the
decided instead to show the last Hungarian
frames painted with chrom colour. I used
movie shot in late 1944, its title: ‘Ez történt
thin pieces of real glass for the doors that
Budapesten’ - ‘This happened in Budapest’
can be broken to look very life-like. I made
and it fits well to the scene of the diorama
the stairs from Depron and cardboard
also. Some Toldi light tanks of the
plates and the small roof above the stairs
hungarian 1st Armoured Division were
was made from a wooden section covered
encircled in the city and one of them was
by styrol plates. I glued an aluminium sheet
photographed not far from the cinema so I
along the edges and made the neon tubes
decided to use a Toldi on the diorama.
from soldering tin.
Budapest Diorama (Checked):Layout 1 05/12/2012 12:59 Page 4
Above The letters of the large “CORVIN” writing were lasercut by Róbert Rácz and the neon tubes were made by bending soldering tin. The coloured neon tubes of the “UFA” logo were made in the same way.
Right The large placards were designed in the style of the movie placards of the time – Csaba Kovács helped me to design and print them. I found only a street placard of the original movie – some details were used from this also.
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Budapest Diorama (Checked):Layout 1 05/12/2012 12:59 Page 5
THE FOUNTAIN & OTHER DETAILS
The fountain was a hard nut to crack – it is still in its original place so I could study its sophisticated form. I tried to break down its shape for the sake of the easier build. I used for this styrol and Depron plates, Milliput and soldering tin for the spiral ornaments. At the end I brushed the whole fountain with powdered sandstone before painting.
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Budapest Diorama (Checked):Layout 1 05/12/2012 12:59 Page 6
I used for the surrounding area different aftermarket products; the
The rolls of film and their boxes with the “DUPONT”
dustbins, antitank mines and the supply containers are from Plus
logo were lasercut by Róbert Rácz also – we had
Model. The Germans used many types of these antitank mines in
photos and the original dimensions of them. The
very large numbers in Budapest and the supply containers were
film itself was cut from an old audio casette tape.
also a characteristic sight in the city during the siege.
The bakelite records are from Plus Model.
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Budapest Diorama (Checked):Layout 1 05/12/2012 12:59 Page 7
VEHICLES The Toldi is the old resin kit from Botond Models. (When I built it I didn’t dare to dream about an injection moulded kit – thanks to Hobbyboss we now have one!) The Toldi light tanks were built in Hungary from 1939 under license of the Landsverk L-60 bought from Sweden. It was a modern design in the late thirties but by this stage of the war these light tanks were useless against the more powerful Russian tanks. Despite this the Hungarians used them until the end of the war.
40
Above The Toldi is finely detailed and some photoetched parts come with the kit also. I obtained the tracks from Modelkasten but I could only use parts of them as they didn't fit to the sprocket wheels so here I had to use the kit's resin tracks. The model was painted with Gunze acrylics and the markings were airbrushed using home made stencils from Tamiya masking tape.
Left The tricycle was scratchbuilt using some parts from Tamiya's bicycle kit (seat, pedals and tyres) and I also used Aber's photoetch set designed for Tamiya's bicycles. The frame was made from Evergreen rods. These tricycles were very popular in Budapest at this time and one can even be seen on a photo taken by the Russians just in front of the Corvin cinema after the fighting.
Budapest Diorama (Checked):Layout 1 05/12/2012 12:59 Page 8
FIGURES The figures were carefully selected to fit to the scene of the diorama. The kicking Russian and his German prisoner are from Bravo6. The wounded Germans are from Verlinden; the Hungarian tankman is from The Bodi and the shouting Russian is a converted Verlinden figure whilst the other Russian in greatcoat is from Miniart. All figures were painted with Vallejo acrylics.
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Budapest Diorama (Checked):Layout 1 05/12/2012 12:59 Page 10
Above The tunnel built into the base (underneath the diorama) is now home to two sneaky figures creeping up on the Russian forces through the water fountain.
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AFV-68 Jan-Feb 2013_AFV/26 Jan/Feb 06 06/12/2012 12:23 Page 46
KEEPING TRACK
new releases
Dragon 1:35 Flakpanzer IV 'Ostwind' We've finally got our hands on the much anticipated Ostwind from Dragon, being based on their excellent new generation Panzer IVs we expected the new parts to match the high standard set which they indeed do. Concentrating on the new parts, you just have to pull out the turret first and it's a real testament to the skill of Dragon's designers and engineers. Although made from two large parts, the delicate wall thickness means Dragon thoughtfully supply a vac-formed cradle to prevent any damage. As well as measuring up well against reliable scale drawings the turret has subtle weld detail inside and out. The other obvious eye-catching feature of the vehicle is the Flak 43 which again is handled with
great flair, the single piece barrel and breech is outstanding- just look at the muzzle detail! Etched brass mesh parts are supplied to create the spent shell basket and the gun generally looks like it will really look the business.A partial interior and nicely detailed gun mount will look busy enough on the completed model and as with all of these Panzer IV kits there's option to open up pretty much all the hatches and flaps (although you'll need to source interior parts to open everything up). Another Dragon release that just makes you want to clear the work bench and get started, it should prove a beautiful out of the box build.
Airfix 1:48 Supacat Jackal / Coyote
46
We've been impressed of late by some of Airfix's latest aircraft kits which continue the brand's 'pocket money' price point but provide some pretty serious modelling. These two kits reflect this with a surprise release in both subject and also scale. The Coyote differs only in the fact that it has a 6x6 set up (proving a good heavy tractor) so the kits are fundamentally the same bar an extra small sprue in the Coyote package. The Airfix brand is visually as strong as ever, and thankfully the all-important plastic is of the same high quality as the packaging. The complex nature of these vehicles has been well designed in kit-form by Airfix with no sacrifice of detail, we've complete suspension and interiors, decent wheels
with a 'weighted' tyre, good weapons and generally a good level of finesse with the moulding of the pale blue sprues. Ok- so you could go mad with photoetch on this type of vehicle with it's 'inside-out' appearance, and I'm sure the aftermarket guys will step up to this (at the recent Scale Model World show Airfix displayed what seemed to be their own planned etched set?) but then you have to ask 'why not 1:35 ?' With the obvious research and design already available I think Airfix would be missing a trick not to release these kits in a bigger scale also? Good to see Airfix looking at armour as well as the aircraft.
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Dragon 1:35 RSO/01 type 470 The one I'd imagine most of us have been waiting for is here, the original 'steel cab' RSO from DML. The first customary glance across the sprues shows the obvious majority of parts from the previous releases, with improved detail on the wheel hubs but still the tricky fit of the axles and idlers (believe me, I've built one!) The chassis may not just click together but the effort is worth it as detail is very nice indeed. The air-cooled eight cylinder is again provided along with many of the parts of the '03' version which aren't used - pretty much the whole wooden cab. The steel cab and wooden load area are the new parts and are very nicely done, the slatted front air intake and inner pressings of the doors beautifully handled. The rear bed includes a frame for the canvas
cover and etched brass parts to create the racks for the snowshoes which are also included. As usual, beware of the instructions, there’s no directions to fit a co-driver’s seat (although included) and a mix of revised and original parts would suggest lots of dry fitting to get the right parts (using the revised idler axle parts on sprue 'E' would make sense although the instructions say not) Minimal markings are provided for four vehicles and some handy masks are provided for the glass. So at long last the old Max/Italeri kit can take a bow, this release is not without some minor niggles but is a major leap in comparison. I look forward to seeing some aftermarket resin canvass tilts for this one!
Live Resin These days with such a prolific release of such high quality kits and accessories it really takes something extra-ordinary to stop us in our tracks here at the office (with the exception of Jaffa Cakes) One new range that has done just that is from Russia's Live Resin, if you're into modern US subjects in 1:35 and like to add some detail to your projects you really need to take a look at these sets. CAD technology and some of the most delicate resin casting we've seen results in the ultimate in upgrades, you feel the need to build a vehicle just to use this stuff! To sit a-top your Humvee or MRAP is set LRE-35072 Mk47 Advanced Lightweight Grenade Launcher, LRE-35073 is the same but with the S.A.G. shield (complete with clear vision block) and LRE-35077 Mk 19-3 40mm
Grenade Machine Gun. LRE-35069 offers the Mk47 with M3 tripod mount, the same mount for the Mk19-3 is with set LRE-35075. Sets of extra ammo belts and specialist sights and mounts are also available as separate sets including spent 40mm shell cases. Infantry weapon sets also feature incredible detail with everything covered from side arms, M16A4 MWS, MAG 58 GPMGs and M249 SAWs. Communication systems are also covered and helmets with mounts to mix and match. Check out Live Resin's ad in this issue and visit www.live-resin.com, more importantly make sure you have some new blades ready to remove the delicate parts from the fine moulding runners. Absolutely stunning quality.
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AFV-68 Jan-Feb 2013_AFV/26 Jan/Feb 06 06/12/2012 12:24 Page 48
new releases
AK Interactive Camouflage Profile Guide'1945 German Colors' and 'German Late War Colors' acrylics set Mig Jimenez and the guys at AK Interactive have presented the very much 'in-vogue' subject of end of WWII German colour schemes in this new release. A brief introduction leads us into the focus of the book which are inspirational colour schemes for the modeller in the form of high quality colour profiles based largely on photographs from the popular 'Panzerwrecks' series. The black and white wartime shots have been brought to life with a huge variety of vehicles covered giving plenty of inspiration for that next project. Along with the factual there are some 'what if?' profiles of
paper panzers with even more radical colour combinations. The illustrations and production are high quality and coupled with AKI's accompanying set of six late war RAL colours as ready to airbrush acrylics, you're all set. I've used these acrylics several times with satisfying results, the packaging states a 'scale effect' is taken into consideration (presumably 1:35) so we're good to go straight from the bottle. www.ak-interactive.com is the place to check on all their recent releases.
SKP Model A lovely realistic touch is obtained with these sets from SKP, etched nickel provides the ideal backing for moulded colour lenses. This new set SKP 173 is to suit Zvezda's new T-90. www.skpmodel.eu will help with suppliers in your part of the World.
Dragon 1:35 pz Kpfw.38(t) Ausf.S with fuel trailer
48
Dragon provide another option for the 38(t) with the Swedish produced 'S' version with the very minor differences included and also the fuel trailer often seen in shots of the early Russian campaign (in fact largely the parts contained in DML's Tauchpanzer IV) This kit is presented in typical Dragon fashion with the familiar grey styrene beautifully moulded, photoetched parts (including the perforated toolboxes) and the finely detailed Magic Track. We're also offered a pretty complete interior and engine; certainly enough to be seen through the restrictive size of the hatches. There's still the debate of what's correct in regard to the mudgaurd shape of the 38(t) the Tristar kits have a distinctive
'kink' in profile but the Dragon kits not…you decide, it's a tough call! Maybe the mudguards are the only aftermarket item you'd look for with this kit, and that's only if you want to represent realistic damage. A quick look at some reference shots I took of a removed and stripped turret remind me that Dragon have captured the various sized bolts and rivets very well. This is a very complete all-round project from the box, thinking back to what you would have had to add to the old Italeri kit many years ago to bring it near to these standards it offers great value for money plus the added interest of the fuel trailer.
AFV-68 Jan-Feb 2013_AFV/26 Jan/Feb 06 06/12/2012 12:24 Page 49
Saurer RK-7 (Sd.Kfz.254) by John L. Rue and Heiner F. Duske Published by Nuts and Bolts
Softback portrait format 60 page new section, 102 total www.nuts-bolts.de
As Nuts and Bolts have done with their volume on the RSO (if my memory serves me correctly) an updated release is now available on the unusual (to say the least!) Saurer RK-7. The new section accounts for over half the pages and is presented in the style of their more recent releases but it is stitched into the centre of the original production leaving the overall feel a little confusing at first glance. This in no way detracts from the abundance of new photographs, technical drawings and information - an incredible amount of research goes into these volumes and the new photographs presented never cease to amaze (especially with a production vehicle as rare as this) Nuts and Bolts drawings have become a kind of industry standard, here we have plans (including
a wide variety of turret fittings) and 3D versions. The colour photographs of the sole surviving vehicle make great reference, the restoration is only partial so the parts look to be largely original. Mr Greenland has dug out some photographs of the beautiful scratchbuilt master for the kit produced by Historex many years ago which will be superseded by the Hobby Boss injection moulded kit, so often the case in this golden age of the hobby. As always, Nuts and Bolts cover every aspect you could wish to model a vehicle accurately - very affordable and comprehensive reference. Well worth getting even if you have the original as the comprehensive new supplement has much to offer.
Inside The Armour It's good to see some of the more obscure subjects still being covered by the aftermarket guys and Inside The Armour can still be relied on to cover the Commonwealth topics. 45057 is a full turret to fit AFV Club's Centurion to create a 5.2/6 version. A full hollow turret utilises kit hatches and details and includes a mantlet cover which is very nicely done. Inside The Armour produce some great Churchill parts and conversions, 35061 is a worthwhile little etched fret to detail hatch handles, air intakes and tool stowage. Slight change now in the form of some
generic French armour details, tools and holders to be precise with resin and etched parts of high quality, the jacks being particularly well rendered, 35059 is the set's code. Finally a figure, their first if I'm not mistaken of a Canadian sniper. Two heads are included to suggest both the Canadian's headscarf and a woollen hatted commando style. The figure is nicely sculpted and cast although the subject and pose would perhaps make him more suited to display on his own. www.insidethearmour.com is as you'd expect, the place to browse and buy direct.
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AFV-68 Jan-Feb 2013_AFV/26 Jan/Feb 06 06/12/2012 12:24 Page 50
new releases
Dragon 1:35 Pz.Kpfw.IV Ausf.A Dragon go back to the start with their series of Panzer IVs and have produced a beautiful kit of the 'A' which completes the set. These kits must rank amongst DML's very best with quite staggering levels of detail. There are plenty of parts from previous releases of the D and B versions but over one hundred and twenty new parts including front glacis, hull top and turret which has good interior detail and features such as detailed ring teeth. The 'dustbin' cupola is very well done and has a single clear insert for the vision blocks with features like the internal mantlet superbly rendered. As with the other DML IVs every hatch is supplied separate with details to both faces, I think Dragon would be wise to produce a separate engine / engine bay kit for their many
Panzer IV based kits with a gearbox thrown in for good measure? The early single piece hull tub requires the very demanding, but ultimately detailed, drive housings (seven parts and twelve separate bolt heads for each drive sprocket- ouch!) and suspension bogies (close to twenty parts each!) including the early thin tyres and 38cm 'Magic' track with delicate detail and hollow guide horns. If all of this isn't enough an excellent photoetched fret is included with tool clamps and holders. It's hard to imagine a more complete kit for the discerning modeller, not something that can be thrown together over a couple of evenings but a very fitting finale to the Panzer IV series of these excellent kits.
Italeri 1:35 Crusader Mk.I
50
I'm sure modellers of British subjects will be happy to see this Italeri kit back on the market ( although British subjects are being released at steady rate these days) and I was certainly happy to see the three sprues moulded in a nice pale grey which makes the kit look a whole lot more appealing before you start. This is classic Italeri with some very nice detail, maybe not up to the standards of todays state of the art tooling but very decent nevertheless. The tooling must have been freshened up
somewhat as there's no sign of flash although there's some tricky clean-up of some of the sprue gates on the turret and hull parts required. The old-school vinyl tracks don't really hit the mark these days although they're not bad for the material Fruils would be the choice of champions and the Eduard set ads finesse and corrects a couple of issues. Still a decent kit and sound base to produce a great looking British classic. Thanks to the Hobby Company for keeping us up to date with Italeri releases.
AFV-68 Jan-Feb 2013_AFV/26 Jan/Feb 06 06/12/2012 12:24 Page 51
HDS Late M32 Turret A taste of the future of modelling here from HDS who have used CAD design to model this late style M32 turret - with obvious applications when teamed the new Tasca kit. They have then teamed up with an online rapid prototyping service click2detail.com to allow the modeller to run off his own example on demand. The nature of the current rapid prototyping technology means that this frosted transparent finish is the most detailed output style but it can have a very slight banding finish on the surface. Don’t let this put you off however as it is very minimal and can be cleaned up for an excellent finish. The potential here is obviously huge and HDS are already starting to develop a range of different design projects. These include spaced out suspension components for the E9 Sherman as well as correct M46, 47, 48, and M88 wheel sets and other items. For more information HDS now have a Facebook page and for general questions about the process please visit: http://www.click2detail.com/buyer_faq.php?s=7 you can also see more at:
[email protected]
Revell 1:35 German Staff Car G4 No surprise on opening this box that we're presented with a rebox of the lovely ICM kit. There's no mention anywhere on the kit packaging or build instructions that this is indeed a Daimler-Benz, the kit is exactly as the ICM kit except we’re not given the nice group of figures. We looked at this kit back in issue 62 and were very impressed overall, so much so that we built quite a sizeable portion of this beast of a car and reported the fit and design of the kit to be excellent with fully detailed chassis, suspension and
drive-train. Resin wheels may prove a slight improvement over the kit parts and some wiring and plumbing would be easily added should you wish to display the engine. Used by the highest level commanders of the German forces you'll need to be reaching for some gloss paint for a change - terrifying I know but worth the effort for a great looking display piece which won't be covered in dirt for a change. www.revell.eu will tell you this kit should be in all good model and toy shops now.
Revell 1:35 German Truck ‘V3000 S’ Another ICM kit re-boxed by Revell which should mean this lovely kit is more widely available. Presumably still moulded in the Ukraine by ICM as the sand coloured styrene and plastic bags are typical of their kits. Also typical now is the high quality of the moulding and detail, not something that could be said of certain Eastern European manufacturers in the past but now very much on par with the 'Big Boys'. Having never seen this kit before I was instantly impressed with the level of detail and I think the designers have made good choices leaving off any exaggerated wood
textures on the cargo bed and keeping with a subtle civilian crossply type tyre. A fully detailed chassis and engine are included and the doors and bonnet can be posed open, if leaving the cab doors open a little texture adding to the seat wouldn't go amiss. The tilt bows are supplied stowed but the part would provide a template to make your own should you wish. A great subject as these Ford trucks were produced all over Europe with great conversion 51 potential and variety of colour schemes, a civilian version would also take very little work.
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new releases
Tamiya 1:35 Simca 5 staff car I certainly didn't see this one coming from Tamiya, the tiny little two-seater Simca comes in Tamiya's distinctive quality packaging albeit small. Two sprues in dark grey and a body shell are the extent of the parts along with a clear sprue which offers the option of open windows. Moulding is crisp and delicate and dropping the body over the chassis / wings assures us we're promised Tamiya's renowned fit and ease of assembly, all very nicely done throughout with separate doors. Suspension detail is simplified in places and
you'll need to carry out some minor surgery should you wish to 'steer' the front wheels. A decent driver figure is included but I would like to have seen an optional part to show the roof closed. A nice one for dioramas and as the car is essentially a FIAT Topolino it could be used in civilian colours in much of Europe. These were used by the French Army and the pressed into German service and the kit comes with markings for a French Civilian car as well as German Luftwaffe and Heer options. A lovely (very!) little kit.
Lifecolor Paint Sets
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Lifecolor's UK distributor, The Airbrush Company, have kept us up to date with new releases with this latest batch of boxed colours. First up are two sets each containing three acrylic colours for the vignette or diorama builder. Debris and Rubble 1 contains colours typical in Northern Europe, Worn Brick, Deposited Dust and Broken Plaster. Set 2 has colours more likely in Southern Europe, Old Tile, Stone Wall and Lime Mortar. The last three colour set described as Leaking and Stains MS05 provides three semitransparent shades for Exhaust oil effect, Dirty Grease effect and Grease effect. These are similar to the Tensocrom colours and will allow base colours to show through. Ideal for adding realistic stains to engines of all kinds or for adding those exhaust stains.
Next we have boxed sets of six colours, unlike Lifecolor's earlier sets there are three acrylic colours and three pigment powders in these 'Combo' packs. SPG03 contains what you'll need to replicate various rusted surfaces and SPG02 provides finishes for tracks on vehicles including a realistic 'rubber' colour for track pads and a graphite powder pigment to add a glint to polished metal areas. The best of the bunch is SPG01 'Israeli Army' providing what looks like excellent matches to IDF Sandgrey, both early and late, and early olive green. Three pigments to give the all important dusty finish are Golan Earth, Sinai Sand and Lebanon Dust. Lifecolor is one of our favourite finishes, well worth a try. For full details of the Lifecolor range visit www.airbrushes.com
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Stalingrad 1:35 German Winter Infantry We rate Stalingrad figures among the best in the business and new releases never fail to impress. These three guys represent a new collection of winter themed German infantry and are based on war time photographs. The bulk and the folds of the reversible uniforms looks perfect (you could of course choose the camo finish to suit non-snow scenes) sculpting and
casting are as good as it gets with the most delicate of detail and minimal clean-up. See all the new figures and the rest of the range at www.stalingrad.diorama.ru details of stockists World-wide are also listed. Superb.of these and the rest of the superb Stalingrad range visit www.stalingrad.diorama.ru
Value Gear Some more resin to stow-up your latest project from Ireland's Value Gear. The idea of each new set are that there's no repeat parts and they're generic to any period or country. There's six sets of tents and tarps and two sets of wooden crates. Detail and casting is very good with
minimal clean-up, our only gripe was the buckle holes in some straps looked large - easily filled if you were to feel the same. Very affordable extensive sets that wont have you scrimping on stowage www.valuegeardetails.com for more information and ordering.
The Airbrush Company- neo air mini compressor and Iwata Revolution 'M' Airbrush A couple of quirky new products here from The Airbrush Company. First up is this tiny compressor which can sit on even the smallest of work surfaces with stylish simplicity. It's a simple plug and play straight from the box with a power lead and air hose included along with an airbrush holder. Operation is via a single button with three pressure settings illuminating in different colours. The pressure generated suits gravity fed airbrushes and while sufficient for most modelling applications I think it would struggle with something the size of a 1:32 bomber for instance. Sometimes a problem with air supplies without some form of storage tank is the 'pulsing' of the motor effecting the smoothness. This can be overcome by slowing down the spraying action which I found was the case here. Operation is very quiet making this an
ideal little unit if you're working around others in the home. Iwata are renowned for their quality airbrushes for many high-end applications and have introduced this entry level 'M' gravity fed single action model. At first I looked on the stubby appearance as a gimmick but on using it realised that the needle adjustment can be made with the thumb of your trigger hand. The cup is a good 7ml size complete with a cap to avoid spillage. This is a simple to use airbrush ideal for beginners with a lovely weighty, quality feel to it. This will really chuck out some paint making it great for base coats or varnishes and will still turn down for a more delicate flow too. Iwata back most products with a five year warranty, check www.airbrushes.com for more details on these new releases and everything airbrush related.
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EA35 184 E35 147
E35 146
EA35 183
E35 144
E35 154
E35 149
E.T. Model Upgrades
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No sign of the guys from E.T. slowing down with another batch of new 1:35 top-quality photoetched upgrade sets. If a T-34 is on your to-do list of projects there's sure to be something here to interest you. E35-146 is for Dragon's T34/85 and contains all the fine details you'd expect, a beautifully fine engine intake mesh, resin pistol ports and some metal tow cable. Couple this up with E35-147 which is a set of etched brass fenders / mudguards to suit any DML T-34 and you'll have some fantastic fine detail. EA 35-084 is again generic to any T-34 portrayed in winter with a set of ice-cleats to add to the track and EA35-083 is a superb set of 'bedspring' spaced armour often seen on very late war Russian vehicles. A couple of U.S. subjects now starting with a kit that you don't see built as much as it should, Dragon's M2A1 half track. E35-144 is a big set covering
S35 011 smaller fittings and also full rear stowage holders, complete front doors, radiator surround and complete MG housing. There's also a set of resin mines to fit into the racks supplied. Tasca's Sherman 'Jumbo' is already a lovely kit but E35-149 will enhance it even further with bogie skids, mudguards, .50 Cal ammo and boxes and plenty of fine finesse. An up to date subject now with Meng's pickup receiving a rocket launcher conversion in resin and brass, fine details are also included for the base vehicle and E35-154 is the reference. Finally from E.T. is one of their combined 'Value Packages', no less than fifteen frets! Antennae bases and tow cable will make a real show-stopper of Academy's Merkava IV with the main detail set and full LIC side skirts. S35-011 if you're up to the challenge! www.etmodeller.com has details of the huge range.
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HLX48328
HLX48329
HLU35057
HLU35059
Hauler Accessories More sensible little sets released by Hauler starting with what they're famous for; 1:48. HLX48328 provides nice shields and detail for the Flak 30 from ACE and HLX48329 provides some worthwhile additions for the BA-10 kit from UMM. Up a notch to with HLU35057 in 1:35 where MiniArt's GAZ-AAA '43 can get a set of cool tracks to wrap around the rear wheels ready for winter and
the sheet metal fenders, ideal for adding damage. Finally HLU35059 will add some finesse to the IS-2 brute from Tamiya with some engine deck mesh. www.hauler.cz has details of the full range on show.
Dragon 1:35 LAH Div. Kleisoura Pass 1941 Dragon produce good figures in 1:35 and their 'Gen2' equipment is second to none for detail, but they seem to relentlessly churn out similar poses and scenarios which do leave you wondering if you've seen the set before? Sculpting and moulding is crisp and fine and the interaction between the poses is good. Captured weapons are included but there's plenty of choice on the Gen2 sprue of MP44s,
MG34s etc. Fundamentally there's nothing wrong with this set, in fact the quality is excellent, it's just the poses that are uninspiring. I've said this before, but I think DML would be wise to create some figure sets specific to their vehicle kits; a crew for the new Ostwind or riders for the rear of the RSO?
Zvezda 1:35 BTR-70 with MA-7 turret The bulk of this kit is the BTR-70 which has been available from Dragon, Revell and of course Zvezda (confusing as to who did it first?) Looking a fresh as we open the sturdy corrugated inner box first impressions aren't as impressive as recent new toolings from Zvezda (although we have a new sprue for the turret) The green styrene doesn't show detail at it's best but a closer look shows nice weld beads and some fine detail, we're also reminded of what a huge vehicle this is. The big upper hull moulding has some sink-
marks to fill and our sample has some damage to the fine hatch hinges which probably would have not occurred if the sprues were bagged. The big wheels are a prominent feature of the BTRs and some excellent resin aftermarket sets are available (DEF and Miniarm spring to mind) the kits parts are ok at best, an improvement is that the previous soft vinyl tyres have been replaced with black styrene. A solid base for some extra work, a good kit very reasonably priced but nothing particularly exciting.
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M O D E L L E D M A R T I N E Z 56
B Y D E
A N G E L R U I Z M E D I N I L L A
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S C R A T C H B U I L T
S P A N I S H MK5
P A R T 2 : P A I N T I N G & W E A T H E R I N G 57
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Once the assembly stage is finished I can contemplate beginning the painting phase. This is a process that I have always had great respect for and in this case especially, as scratchbuilding a vehicle like this takes a large amount of work and time, a bad paint job would ruin all the work done on this vehicle.
This time I used acrylic paint from Tamiya, mixing XF-67 with a little XF-69 NATO Green to serve as a primer. Now I applied lighter areas by mixing yellow XF-67 XF-3, then I applied XF-67 very diluted to unify the whole vehicle so that the effect of the lighter parts was not too exaggerated.
The vehicles of the Spanish army do not have a matte finish, they look 58
slightly glossy, so I applied several coats of very thin Vallejo satin varnish.
RG Build Part 1:Layout 1 05/12/2012 14:17 Page 12
To highlight the details and recesses, I applied a dark brown wash and selective areas of black with oils from MIG Productions to highlight the chips and cracks etc.. In some areas worn panels were created with oils, I didn’t go over the top with this as it is a relatively new vehicle. With this general painting phase finished, I continued to paint the smaller details such as: headlights, mirrors, machine gun and several other details, working with acrylic colours from Valllejo.
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I wanted to represent a vehicle deployed in Afghanistan, which can be seen in the photos I used as reference whilst making this vehicle, with a variety of possibilities, ranging from clean looking newcomers to completely muddy veterans, covered with dust, dirt and chipping. I decided on a compromise, with the lower hull and wheel muddy and some splashes, without going overboard with this effect.
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To achieve this finish, I prepared a mixture of Humbrol putty with MIG pigments and acetone and using a brush I textured the affected areas. Exhaust smoke stains and fuel stains were also added. To finish the painting phase I applied a pin wash with very diluted Tamiya BUFF followed by an application of MIG pigments on the entire vehicle, trying to build this up in the crevices, ledges, etc.. pigment fixer was used over areas where dust can accumulate and then dried pigments followed once the excess is removed.
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