bay area rock

Potlicker Press

Bay Area Rock Bouldering + Climbing

Sonoma Coast • Pine Canyon Nut Tree Boulders • Columbia Consumnes River • Mt Diablo The Grotto • Berkeley Rocks Castle Rock • Jailhouse Rock Mt St Helena · Ring Mountain

Jim Thornburg

5a_y Area Rock climbing and boulderlng In the greater San Francisco 5a_y Area

Jim Thornburg • Potlicker Press • 7th edition Cover: Christine Zalecki • Sunny Side Up • lld • The Egg • pg. 138 Above: Travis Lombardo • Barnacle Bill • V4 • Fisk Mill Cove • pg. 90 These and all uncredited photos by Jim Thornburg (c) 2012 Potlicker Press, Printed in China

BAY AREA ROCK • CONTENTS

Contents 150 East Bay Area 4 Introduction 4 Bay Area Climbing 6 History 14 Legend

16 North Bay Area 16 18 26 30 60 66 70 80

North Bay • Intro Map The Nut Tree • Boulders Putah Creek • Boulders Mt. St. Helena • Routes Goat Rock • Boulders Dry Creek • Routes Fisk Mill Cove Area • Boulders Fisk Mill Cove Area • Routes

9 2 West Bay Area 92 94 100 106 110 118 128 132 136 140

West Bay • Intro Map Black Sand Beach • Boulders Ring Mountain • Boulders Mt Tamalpais • Routes Mt Tamalpais • Boulders Mickey$ Beach • Routes Mickey$ Beach • Boulders Stinson Beach • Boulders The Egg • Routes Surf Safari • Routes

142 San Francisco Area 142 Beaver St. Wall • Routes 144 Glen Canyon Park • Boulders 146 Cliff House Boulder s • Bou lders

150 152 154 160 164 168 172 178 186

East Bay • Intro Map Stoneface Park • Boulders Indian Rock • Boulders Mortar Rock • Boulders Remillard Park • Routes+ Boulders Cragmont Park • Routes+ Boulders Grizzly Peak • Boulders Mt. Diablo • Routes Pine Canyon • Routes

194 South Bay Area 194 19 6 204 210 216 224 238 252 260 262 264 266 270 274

South Bay • Int r o Map Castle Rock • Rout es Indian Rock Area • Routes Castle Rock Fall s • Routes Goat Rock Area • Routes Underworld Ar ea • Routes Castle Rock • Boulders Indian Rock Area • Boulders · Klinghoffer Boulders • Boulders Sunnyvale Mountain • Boulders Summit Rock • Routes Aquarian Valley • Routes +Boulders Guadalupe Rock • Routes Panther Beach • Boulders

276 Sonora Area 278 Columbia • Boulders 292 Jai l house • Routes 300 The Grotto • Routes

306 Sacramento Area 306 Consumnes River Gorge • Routes 316 Rocklin Quarry • Bou lders

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BAY AREA ROCK • INTRODUCTION

Area climbing Like many Berkeley-born climbers, my first climbing experience was on Beginners Crack, a 35-foot-high 5.7 at Indian Rock. It was 1981, and Ia just watched a skilled local named Dylan Williams hike up the crack as though it was a staircase in his house. After he went up the hill (to more challenging problems at Mortar Rock) my high-school buddy Doug decided he would have a go at Beginners Crack. Clad in tennis shoes and no rope, he quickly thrashed up into anklebreaking territory. He never once looked down, and soon, despite a few slips, he was belly-crawling onto the summit. Always the cautious one, I made some tentative forays onto the first moves - my tennis shoes skittered while I pawed feebly at the polished hand holds. I fell over and over and almost gave up. Finally, a hernia-level effort saw me past the first ten feet (the crux of the climb). It took me close to an hour to finish, (half an hour of actual climbing and half an hour freaking out on the highest ledge, trying to make my legs stop shaking while pleading with Doug to go call the Fire Department). In the end I mustered the courage to crawl up the last ten feet to the top, where I was greeted by my new life as a Climber. Since my humble but unforgettable start on Beginners Crack, I 've travelled to many of the Meccas of climbing: Fontainebleau and Ceuse in France, The Greek island Kalymnos, The Shawangunks in upstate New York, Kentuckys Red River Gorge and of course, the crucible of climbing, Yosemite Valley. You might think climbing on all that nectar stone would diminish my psyche for our dusty local crags; not so. I love climbing around here as much as ever, and during the making of this guidebook I met many like-minded and un-jaded fellow climbers; country kids, lost out in Pine Canyon, psyched out of their minds at discovering a land of adventure in their backyards. I've seen old-timers boulder till their fingers bled at Castle Rock. I've heard the words "whoa this is COOL!" uttered when a climber first lays eyes on crags like The Egg, The Bear, The Grotto, or Jailhouse, etc. etc. etc. But maybe my favorite thing about exploring all these Bay Area rocks are the constant affirmations that, despite the surrounding and massive metropolis, the Bay Area remains one of the most beautiful spots on the planet. Each foray unveils some new aspect of living in this magical area; a whale breaching 100 yards out to sea at the Dry Creek Sea Crag. A warm winter evening above a thick layer of pink fog on Mt. St. Helena. A thrilling glimpse of a Mountain Lion back in Pine Canyon or a soak in a natural hot spring on the edge of a Pacific Ocean sunset at Mickeys Beach. While on summer weekends many of the Bay Areas crags can feel overrun, you'll also find that a weekday at some of the farther-flung spots can provide an unrivaled lonesome getaway. Everyone should take at least one day off a year and drive up the Sonoma Coast for a day of bouldering. Or just take a summer afternoon off to check out some of the more hidden Castle Rock or Pine Canyon spots - its almost certain you will have your chosen crag or boulder all to yourself. As an added bonus, the drive to your

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BAY AREA ROCK • INTRODUCTION

favorite burrito joint or watering hole will be a short one.

Portal to the Natural World The Bay Area is blessed with perhaps the highest concentration of spectacular climbing gyms on the planet. These gyms are easily supported by a huge and always billowing climber population (despite the relative lack of local rocks) . Why is this? One theory is that climbers will sprout wherever there is a citizenry rife with free thought and free time, and all those climbing gyms fill a much needed niche. Yet thrashing about overgrown trails and scrambling up short, uninspiring cliffs, has also been an important rite of passage for local climbers. At the gym you won't learn which direction the sun is moving, or when the full moon rises. You won't learn about tides and swells, get lost or run out of water. You won't wonder about the Natives of this area, what they ate, or if they climbed these rocks before you. In short you won't learn about the natural world, a key ingredient for many when falling in love with climbing. During the writing of this book I often had a hard time finding companions for my expeditions to lesser-known spots, friends would say "I heard that place is covered in Poison Oak". While this is generally a fact, (and I should know - I've had it plenty) its important for the adventurous Bay Area climber to discover that a simple after-climbing shower (don't wait more than a few hours!) with liberal use of any oil-cutting soap will keep you itch and blister-free. Our crags seldom reach past 70 feet in height. Some are decidedly urban, like The Beaver Street Wall, a 60ft. high cliff of polished chert in the heart of SFs Castro district, but others are wild, like the northern seaside crags and boulders at Fisk Mill Cove. Sometimes its possible to escape the snarling city confines with a mere 10-minute drive; on a bustling Walnut Creek weekday you can get a two-pitch route done after work, sharing quiet Pine Canyon with only coyotes, rattlesnakes and eagles. At Castle Rock you may become hopelessly lost, looking for the fabled Klinghoffer Boulders while thrutching through bushes. On the Sonoma Coast, a wild pig may accost you as you stumble back to your car in the dark, exhausted. At Mickeys Beach a sea bird could perch on the anchorclipping jug of your favorite route and spew sea-bile on you, or you might reach the chains in the last orange blush of a California sunset, as the waves lap below, tinged frothy pink in the fad ing light of another perfect day.

West Face • 5.8 R

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Phillip Pierce braves long runouts and chossy rock on the 1st pitch of the West Face, Pine Canyon.

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BAY AREA ROCK • HISTORY

A briet The Indian Rock Legacy The grinding holes at Mortar Rock, a popular bouldering spot in the Berkeley Hills, wer e made by the Ohlone Tribe, 1000 years (or more) ago. likely that some of those Native American kids climbed many of the cracks and faces on the nearby rocks (after all, they lived there and there was no Nintendo yet). Columbus no doubt put a damper on first ascents for a while, but by the 1930s climbing was making a comeback. In 1934 a group of climbers, Jules Eichorn, Bestor Robinson, and Dick Leonard - just kids at the time - practiced rope work on a paltry plug of Rhyolite in the Berkeley Hills called Indian Rock. With an experimental attitude and the big walls of Yosemite as a spurring goal, they pioneered a dynamic hip-belay technique that upped the odds of surviving big falls on the static ropes available at the time.

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After a few months of practice on the little rock, during which time they took and caught whippers over 20 feet in length, they brought their new-found skills to Yosemite, where they made the landmark first ascent of Higher Cathedral Spire, far and away Yosemite$ hardest at the time. In the 40s, a similar scenario played out, this time the cast included pioneers Allen Steck, Steve Roper, and Chuck Pratt. They focused their considerable skills on harder and harder lines at Indian Rock and went on to establish routes that today challenge modern climbers: The Steck-Salathe on Sentinel Rock (Yosemite, 1950), the West Face of El Cap (Yosemite, 1963), and the FFA of the Kor-Ingalls on Castleton Tower (Castle Valley, 1963). The father of modern day environmentalism, David Brower, also learned the art of climbing on the Berkeley Rocks, developing technical skills to such a degree that he was called upon to train soldiers in mountaineering during WWII.

BAY AREA ROCK • HISTORY Peter Haan and Galen Rowell were the next Indian Rock kids to step to the plate, embracing the (by then) well-established practice of eliminate problems: climbing Watercourse onehanded (V5?), and soloing the heady I-ll (5.11a, 40 feet!). In the 70s, locals were spurred to new heights, this time by a young mathematician named Nat Smale. At Mortar Rock, his cutting edge send of Nats Traverse (V8, 1976), a 40-foot traverse near Indian Rock, marked a huge leap in standards and began a period during which Smale, Scott Frye, Harrison Dekker, John Sherman and a few years later, Jeff Webb, vied to outdo each other with the creation of progressively sicker boulder problems (these would remain the areas hardest for the next 20 years!). In the 90s, this group went on to develop many of the nations most difficult climbs and boulders.

The Castle Rock Connection In the South Bay, a similar scenario played out at the Fontainebleau-esgue blobs of Castle Rock State Park. While crack-less, the sandstone boulders were nonetheless a perfect training ground for developing the friction skills and take-no-prisoner attitude needed for hard Yosemite climbs. During the 60s, Castle regulars Barry Bates and Jim Bridwell honed their free climbing on desperate sloper problems like The Spoon (V3), The Bates Arete (V4) and The Bates Eliminate (V6). These two, along with Indian Rock shredder, Peter Haan, were largely responsible for the solidification of the 5.11 grade in Yosemite in the early 70s. Of course Bridwell also went on to become the leader of the Yosemite Big Wall scene for the next 10 years. Soon after, Ron Kauk, John Yablonski and Scott Cosgrove freguented the boulders, and left behind classics like The Yabo Roof (V5) and Asian Invasion (V6). Prior to 1995, an unregulated period allowed bolts to be placed on the bigger rocks at Castle Rock, resulting in the many fine sport climbs we enjoy today, thanks to the efforts (to name a few) of Dave Caunt, Bruce Morris, and Brad Watson.

,

The 80s were a guiet time at Castle Rock, but in the early 90s an awkward teenager from Santa Cruz began to show up with his older friends, locals Andy Puhvel, Sterling Keene and Chris Bloch. 13-'year old Chris Sharma scanned the boulders with fresh eyes and discovered the next harvest of excellent problems,

BAY AREA ROCK • HISTORY

A briet

(cont.)

culminating in his ascent of The Ecoterrorist, (Vll, 1996). A few years later, Sharmas cutting edge first ascent of Realization (5.15a, 2001) was made shortly after his recovery from knee surgery. His rehab? 30 days in a row of bouldering barefoot at Panther Beach, a gorgeous and lonely stretch of plush sand near Santa Cruz featuring a wave-sculpted sea cliff a quarter mile long. The long ignored, crumbly soft sandstone offered countless fun hang and drop problems - but no names or ratings, which suited Sharma perfectly.

The West Bay Way Back in the mid-80s, it was rare to see more than a climber or two at Turtle Rock or Mickeys Beach. Bouldering, still considered "practice" for bigger climbs, was not the thing it is today, and its specialized practitioners were few and far between. If you did bump into someone at the West Bay rocks it was likely a lone boulderer named Russ Bobzene. Russ spent a lot of time work ing out arcane moves on problems like the Are You Experienced Traverse (V9) and Manitou (VlO), quietly establishing some of the nations hardest problems at the time. Later in the 80s, Scott Frye, Harrison Dekker and Jim Thornburg began experimenting on the steep walls of the main rock at Mickeys Beach. At a time when the difficulty scale topped out at 5.14a, routes like Dream-On (5.13b, 1988) by Thornburg and Surf Safari (5.13d, 1992) by Frye were counted among the hardest in California and remain a rite of passage for aspiring bay area hardpeople. Thornburg and Ken Arizza spent the ensuing years bolting most of the other climbs and old top ropes on both the Main Rock and over on The Egg.

The Santa Rosa Boys Dating back to the 70s, and probably earlier, the a-little-bit-country North Bay city of Santa Rosa always seemed to have at least a few psyched locals active in exploring the remote crags and boulders found on the Sonoma Coast and the flanks of Mount Saint Helena. Steve Roper spent time on the crusty big cliffs on Mt St Helena, while Ken Stanton and Joe Nickerson found many of the cliffs along the coast. The next generation of locals, Marcos Nunez, Jordi Morgan and Jason

BAY AREA ROCK • HISTORY

A briet

(cont.)

Campbell picked up the torch and later recruited Ritchie Esquibel and Chris Summit for their forays up and down the coast and on Mt St Helena, resulting in many classic routes and boulder problems.

Go to Jail In 1990, Yosemite local Dave Schultz discovered a massive cave in the Sierra foothills near Sonora. Dave bolted many of the original lines at "Jailhouse" before he was joined in the new routing frenzy by a slew of other climbers including Tommy Herbert, John Scott, and Troy Corliss. The resulting routes up the 200-foot high cave range from 5.11+ all the way up to Brad Johnson$ new 5.14c, "The Green Mile". In 2011, the long-time local Tom Addison, along with the Access Fund, spearheaded an agreement and easement with local landowners, insuring climbing access for years to come.

Recent History Lately, a new crop of explorers have added some fine routes. Jerry Dodrill and Eric Berghorn have scoured the flanks of Mt St Helena, establishing new routes and maintaining old ones. Ken Arizza continues to occasionally come out of retirement; his most recent find is the well-hidden Lake View Boulders on Mt Tam. On Scott Frye during a one-hang ascent Mt. St. Helena, Aaron Flower Power (5.14a, Jailhouse Rock, 1995). Rough and Dave Stallard r -.,-..,, got psyched and braved the chossy cliffs at Table Rock. The pair excavated many pitches, including a few multi-pitch sport climbs (some of which are quite fun). In 2012, climbers raised over 20K to help "save" Castle Rock State Park from "closure" for at least another year, prompting us to ponder what exactly is a park? And what part of it requires money (hint: its not the trees and the rocks!) At Summit Rock, local climbers, along with the help of The Access Fund, have successfully challenged the year-round climbing ban (to protect nesting raptors), resulting in a more traditional and moderate seasonal closure that allows climbing during the nonnesting months, reminding us that the future of our local climbing depends .on our diligent and intelligent activism.

Oh Snap! In 1994, the right side of this perfect, overhanging finger-crack fell off during a big storm. Three other routes were likewise lost at sea: the arete to the right, Plate-0-Shrimp (13c), a roof climb, Flounder {13b) and another superb fingercrack called Scorpio (12c) . Mickeys Beach Arete now climbs the left side of the broken crack.

BAY AREA ROCK • CLIMBING IN THE BAY AREA

How to use this book: Bay Area Rock uses the symbols and jargon found in most climbing guidebooks, and assumes you are familiar with them.

Topo symbols: • • two-bolt anchor 0 0

Route descriptions: 1. Areta Franklin

(route name)

• lOd, Vl

roof

***

I

I

I

I

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0

ledge..........-

o

(grade) (stars)

left-facing corner

Additional Symbols: (tr) - Indicates that the climb is

right-facing corner

protectable as a top rope only, and that (in most cases) the top anchors are easily accessible.

straight-in cracK

(chf) -The "crumbling hold factor" on a scale from 1 to 10.

chf chf chf chf

o .__path of

0 = solid rock 3 = some suspect holds 6 = many loose holds 9 = hard dirt

Star ratings: 0 stars -Not worth the time! * -Not bad ** - Average fun Really fun · Super fun ***** - Crazy fun, must-do!

o

/0:

bolts __ •

PG = Potential for poor or tricky protection placements or ledge fall.

R = Poor or tricky protection placements and I or ledge fall; you wil l probably get hurt if you fall.

X = Poor and tricky protection placements, ledge or groundfall potential is high; you will get hurt or killt if you fall.

Note: The bolt counts on the topos and photos are accurate.

•

*** **** -

(PG, R, X) - Danger rating:

_,...-climbing route

0

Maps: Maps are to scale in regards to roads and waterways, but the size of t he rocks are sometimes exaggerated for emphasis of location. Trail Road

· · · • -- · · - · • · · -

Creek - - - · Rocks c:::::J D c£J

Note: each chapter begins with an area map, and each area employs one or sometimes two maps to guide you to each crag or boulder.

NORTH BAY • NUT TREE BOULDERS

Nut Tree Boulders The Nut Tree Boulders

Driving directions

The Vacaville Open Space, tucked humbly behind posh track home neighborhoods, is a quick and quiet getaway from the bustle of the city. A dozen quality basalt boulders are strewn widely about the verdant hillsides, offering a boon of chirping crickets, singing birds and stacks of fun problems in the lower V-grades.

From SF, take 80 north to Vacaville (1 hour). Take the Allison Dr exit to Browns Valley Pkwy and follow the map below to the various rocks.

••

Vaca Valley Parkway

Approach Hillcrest Boulders Park near the gate to the Open Space where Hillcrest Ct. bends left and find a small trail heading up to Scotts Rock (20 seconds). The trail continues thru a small gate and up the hillside. The furthest rock, The Mother Boulder, is about a twenty minute hike to the very top of the hill.

Boxcar Boulder Park at the intersection of Wrentham and Vaca Valley Pkwy near the obvious boulder.

Woodcrest Boulders Park on the right near the dirt road that accesses the Open Space. Hike up the dirt road about 200 yards to a cattle gate and water trough and find a faint trail heading up the ridge to the boulders .

Wrentham Orive

Woodcrest lloulders

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Brown's Valley Parkway

Vacaville

To Davis

TREE BOULDERS

The Woodcrest Boulders Park near the gate to the Open Space on Woodcrest Dr just past the dirt service road that traverses the hillside just behind the houses on Woodcrest. After a few hundred yards, go through a gate near a watering trough on the right and up a faint trail to the boulders. A fourth boulder, The Orange Crush Boulder, is found up and right from the Stonewall Boulder and has a handful of worthy problems (not shown here) from V2 to V7. Please take care to be quiet and courteous when parking in the neighborhood on Woodcrest - continued access to the boulders depends on it. Leaving the boulders as clean (or better yet -cleaner) as before your visit is also essential to continued access.

) Woodx Drive

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..... . .,... . ...

•• •

Bloody Madness Boulder

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Trailside Boulder

Trailside Boulder Find this rock on the left side of the trail, about 100 yards up and a stones throw to the left of the trail. You will see quite a few other boulders in the area, some of which have OK problems.

1. Cow Tipping • VO

*

Sit start with your right hand on a good hold and make your way up the arete.

2. Cattle Drive • V3

**

Traverse the steep side from left to r ight and finish on the upper part of Cow Tipping.

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(don't bug the cows!)

dirt service road

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Stonewall Boulder Continuing up the hill, The Stonewall Boulder is reached after a few minutes. There is a stone border at the base.

**

3. The Seam • VO Sit start on the low jug and veer left up the seam.

****

6. The Bulge • V3 Sit start and climb straight up past slopers and a sidepull.

7.

vo

**

Sit start and move right.

**

***

8. Nutcracker • VS In the corridor, climb the direct start straight up to finish on #9.

***

9. Buttcracker • V3 In the corridor, climb the high, overhanging diagonal crack above a tricky landing.

4. Stonewall Problem • V3 Sit start and go straight up. Variation : veer right to an undercling and go up. 5. Stonewall Traverse • Vl Sit start on the undercling and traverse the face right to left.

Bloody Madness Find this rock on the left side of the trail about 75 yards up from the Stonewall Boulder.

***

10. Bloody Madness • V3 Sit start and climb up the center of the bulge past difficult to spot square-cut holds.

***

11. Stoned Dangler • VS Fun and very pumpy traverse from far right to left, or finish up #10.

***

NORTH BAY • THE NUT TREE BOULDERS

The Hillcrest Boulders Park near the gate to the Open Space where Hillcrest Dr. bends left. A trail heads up to Scotts Rock and then through a gate and up to the other boulders.

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Mad Cow Boulder

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· ·Scotts · · ·ittfc · · Rock

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Hillcrest Drive road map page 18

300 yards

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150 yards •••• • • • • • • Vaca Valley

40 Oz. Boulder

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••• • • Mother Boulder

Boulder

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Wrentham

(top of the hill)

Scotts Rock Find this rock a stones throw from the street. Please keep it QUIET in consideration of the neighboring homes.

1. Scott's Traverse • V9

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****

Super-sustained and pumpy. Traverse left to right, always staying low. Finish on the West Face slab after a rising diagonal traverse. Using the higher holds in the middle drops the grade to V7.

**

2. Coulda Been J"imi's #1 • V4 Sit start on good edges. Mossy topout.

***

3. J"imis Butt Crack • V4 Sit start and climb up near the seam.

**

4. Coulda Been J"imis #2 • V3 Stand start and climb the mossy face.

Mad Cow Boulder Across the creek from Scotts Rock, pass through the "guillotine gate" and continue uphill on the trail near the creek bed for two minutes to the boulder.

**

5. Mad Cow Traverse • V2 Stand start and traverse left to right around the aretes.

***

6. Naked Lunch • V3 Sit start the center of the dark face.

**

7. Howling Mad • V1 Sit start and climb the arete.

8.

vo

*

The Saddle Boulders Continue up the trail from Mad Cow up a broad ridge to this big boulder visible in the distance, on the right side of the trail.

**

9. LeftY-Crack • V2 Sit start and climb the left crack.

**

10. Right Y-Crack • V2 Sit start and climb the right crack.

***

11. Crankcase Left • V5 Sit start and climb the overhang to the bend in the Y.

**

12. Crankcase Right • V4 Sit start, but trend right to a flat jug and up right.

40 Oz. Boulder From the Saddle Boulder, hike up to the ridge and turn left and walk 150 yards.

*** Sit start on left sidepull. 2. Natural Disaster. V3 *** Sit start on an incut left sidepull.

1. V3

*** 4. Brass Monkey • V2 **** Climb the highball arete. 3. Frog O'clock • V3

5. Straight Shooter • V1

*** ****

6. Gimme my 40, Sucka' • VO Climb the diagonal crack. Highball. 7. 40 Oz. Traverse • V6

*** L toR .

NORTH BAY • THE NUT TREE BOULDERS

The Mother Boulder Hike up the ridge to the highest point and find this big rock under a majestic oak tree. There is a table if you want to have a picnic.

***

8. Mother Nature • Vl R Climb the 25ft. tall arete but be wary of loose rock up high! Sit start with a left-hand sidepull is V4

****

**

9. Space Lord • VO R Use lots of pads; there are some loose holds on the way up.

*

10. Crispy Critters • V2 R Sit start and climb the flaky face.

***

11. Motherfucker. VS Traverse the boulder from right to left and . finish on the slab.

The Boxcar Boulder At the T-intersection of Wrentham and Vaca Valley Pkwy, a long boulder sits just above the road . There are a few natural lines and a pumpy traverse, but what really makes this rock stand out are the infinite eliminate problems that are possible on the square east wall (aka the 'woody" wall) . Make up 20 different problems and you will get crazy strong!

***

1. The Boxcar Traverse • VS Start and finish at the "1" on the topo, traversing left to right around the entire rock. Always stay below the top, and for full value, stay low when in doubt.

**

2. The Warm-Up • VO Climb the vertical face just left of the arete.

**

3. Woody Left • V4 Hunt out the best square-cut holds and finish near the arete.

**

4. Woody Right • V4 Climb the face just left of the arete.

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NORTH BAY • PUTAH CREEK BOULDERS

Putah Creek Putah Creek Boulders

Driving directions

The quiet foothills on the southeastern edge of the Mayacamas Mountains are the tranquil home of dozens of basalt boulders. The most popular area is alongside Putah Creek where you can find at least three excellent boulders, and a dozen powerful problems and traverses on blocky and sometimes slick black rock on the banks of a year-round stream.

From SF, get on 80 north and take it to the turnoff for I-505 North (just past the city of Vacaville). Take 505 for 10 miles to the turnoff for CA 128 and follow it for 7.4 miles to a small dirt turnout on the left side of the road, just before a curve to the left.

When to go Spring, winter and fall. Summer is too hot for most.

Approach From the pullout, hike down the hill and to the right for the Roadside Boulder, or continue for half a minute to the left on a trail that bumps into the Heavy Metal and Purgatory boulders.

Gear Pads. Please consider packing out any trash you may encounter.

Pullout (7 .4 miles from 1-505)

)

Putah Creek State Wildlife Area

To Vacavi ll e and 1-80

Hell Awa its • V3 """" Buddy Marshburn has figured out the proper holds and sequence for the burly highball " Hell Awaits" .

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NORTH BAY • PUTAH CREEK BOULDERS

Putah Creek Boulders Roadside Boulder The Roadside Boulder is about 50 feet away from where you park your car, just downhill, and to the right.

1. Left Warm Up • Vl

* Crux at the lip.

**

2. V4 Climb past edges and into a side pull I undercling feature.

***

3. Slick • V3 Start on a left hand undercling and then climb edges up and right with slippery feet.

**

4. V3 Start on the low sidepull and move left and up past edges. 5. V2 *** The right hand finish. Start low on the side pull I gaston.

*

6. Right Warm Up • V2 Low start up the left side of the arete. 7. Roadside Traverse • V7 *** Traverse the rock from right to left, staying low on consistently small edges.

Putah Creek Boulders Purgatory Boulder 8. Whine Country Traverse • VB *** Start far to the left and traverse low to the right. A broken hold has forced the line into a higher finish .

9. V2

*

10. Purgatory • V2 ** A big move skips past some bad holds and finishes on creaky jugs up high. 11. SHP • V4 *** Stand start and make some big moves up the blunt arete to a high finish. Low start is VS . 12. Hell Awaits • V3 **** Stand start and figure out the befuddling seguence that makes this V3 and not V13. Quite fun once you get it! Starting a little lower on some slopers makes it V 4.

13. V3 ** Start a little to the left of #12 and get the big jug and do a big move straight up to a flat hold and then move right.

14. Hell Arete • V3 *** Sit start and make some big moves up along the arete to a high finish.

Heavy Metal Boulder (not Shown) The big boulder next to the Purgatory Boulder has the pumpy Heavy Metal Traverse • V4 *** (right to left) and several fun and high up problems in the VO to V3 range.

)

NORTH BAY • Mt SAINT HELENA

Mt. Saint Helena Mount Saint Helena

Driving directions

This humble climbing area that was once written off as unclimbable choss has blossomed into a swan, offering scores of fun and solid climbs on a variety of volcanic outcrops that dot a massive mountain overlooking the famed Napa Valley. The views alone are worth the stout hike, but like the regions famed wines, its the variety that will keep you coming back. The 4,343 ft. tall mountain has everything from smooth slabs to burly overhangs, all featured generously with crimps, gas pockets and even a few leadable cracks. Be sure to check out the book "Silverado Squatters" by Robert Louis Stevenson which recounts some of the rich mining history of the area.

From Calistoga in the Napa Valley, take highway 29 north out of town and follow it up the mountain for 8.4 miles to the pass, where you'll find parking on either siide of the highway for Robert Louis Stevenson State Park. Don't leave valuables in your car or you could fall prey to the dreaded "smash-and - grab".

Gear A rack of quickdraws (12) for the sport climbs, and a standard rack to 4.5" for the cracks.

When to go Spring and fall. Winter is perfect on calm, sunny days and summer is ok in the shade on cooler days.

The Crags The Quarry - moderate top roping The Bubble - sport +top ropes The Bear - trad +sport +multi-pitch Hailstone Rock - sport The Far Side - sport + trad Kimball Canyon - sport Table Scraps - moderate sport Table Rock - sport +multi-pitch

Mt St Helena summi t , 4343'

To Middletown

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ORTH BAY • MT ST HELENA

The Bubble The Bear

Approach

This plug of volcanic rock offers fun sport climbing and top roping on steep pocketed faces nearly 70 feet high. The rock is popular; be warned that weekends can be zooish.

From the parking lot on the north side of the highway, find the trail that heads up the mountain. 200 feet from the road, and just after the trail makes its first right turn, spot a somewhat hidden trail that branches left and provides a steep but fast shortcut to the main fire road, or just slog up the switchback trail. Upon reaching the fire road, turn left (uphill) and walk another 12 minutes to a hairpin turn, the obvious crag next to the road is The Bubble. A trail that skirts up the left side of the rock provides access to the top.

Gear A rack of guickdraws (8). Since most of the anchors are set back a little from the top, bring several longer slings to extend over the edges for top-roping and lowering (as shown in the photo on the facing page). Please consider packing out any trash you may encounter on the trails or at the crags.

When to go The Bubble receives sun for most of the day, making this a great winter; spring and fall crag. often too hot during the summer, though the west face routes get morning shade.

Its

Mt St Helena summit, 4343'

To Middletown

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NORTH BAY • MT ST HELENA

The Bubble The Bubble

***

Cool pockets - an excellent intro to St Helena climbing.

1. The Slab • 5.9

*

2. Toprope • 5.8 Toprope the face right of the previous route, avoiding the crack on the right.

**

Grunt up inside or lieback the edge, or a combo of both.

3. The Gully • 5.6

6. The Ladder • lOd PG **** Traversing straight left at the 4th bolt keeps the grade lOd - straight up is llc. Finish at the ledge {West Arete anchor) or continue past two more bolts {S.lOd PG). A hidden right hand hold allows for safe clipping of the last bolt - miss it and you could hit the ledge if you fall. 7. The "Old" Ladder • 5.10a PG ****

4. Solar Power • lOd **** The steep

face just right of the corner. A long move to a pocket to the left of the last bolt is the way. 5. West Arete • lOd **** Tricky towards the top after a good rest. Bring two shoulder-length slings for the top anchors.

A classic old top rope, freshly bolted for your leading pleasure.

***

8. Bubble Boy • 5.10d R Clip the 1st bolt and either find a way up that is well left of the bolt (5.10a R) or boulder straight up {reachy V4) past the 1st bolt. 9. Toprope Crack • 5.10c 10. Catchy • 5.llc

**

*

A little contrived.

NORTH BAY • MT ST HELENA

The 5ear The Bear

Approach

This blessing of Quartzite for Bay Area climbers is further enhanced by sublime views of the Napa Valley. The rock here is crazy hard, dulling drill bits and forearms in equal measure. The slightly overhanging walls are rife with pockets, edges and cracks. At the Bear you'll find both trad and sport lines ranging from 5.8 to 5.12 and even a few two-pitch routes that should not be missed.

As for the Bubble, but continue on up the fire road for another 300-400 yards, resisting the urge to bushwhack (the old way) straight up the hill to the obvious cliff. Instead, walk patiently (well past the cliff) and locate the sweet (but hard to spot) new trail that traverses easily back left to the cliff base.

Gear A rack of quickdraws (16) and a small rack of gear (to supplement bolts or for leading the cracks). Since many of the anchors are set back a little from the top, bring several longer slings to extend over the edges for top roping and lowering.

When to go The Bear receives morning sun and afternoon shade, so good conditions can be found throughout the year, though you might find it icy cold in the dead of winter and too hot on most summer mornings. The dense rock dries almost instantly after rain.

Mt St Helena summit, 4343'

To Middletown -

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NORTH BAY • MT ST HELENA

The Bear Cliff Lower Bear Cliff The Lower Bear Cliff offers the most concentrated cragging in the Bay Area. Several second pitch routes are fun and have towering views of the Napa Valley and Mayacamas Range.

***

1. Kidnapped • lOb Baloney more than burly. 5 bolts to an anchor.

*** 4 bolts.. 3. Bear Fingers • lOa *** Gear to 2" for this burly lead on steep jams. TR 2. J"ekyll & Hyde • lOc

possible from Kidnapped anchors.

****

4 . Silverado Squatters • lOa Steep jug hauling past 5 bolts.

*** Steep jugs and

5. Rampage • lOd "tufas" past 7 bolts.

****

11. 3-Star Arete • lOc

4 bolts.

***

12. Theodore Roosevelt • 5.10a A 5-bolt second pitch to 3-Star Arete. Take care not to rain rocks down from the belay at the top.

***

13. Marks Moderate • lOb The first pitch of this 2-pitch classic climbs a steep, bolted chimney (5 .9). Continue to a higher anchor (on the right) and the second pitch, a 5-bolt lead with optional gear to 2". Take great care not to rain rocks down from the belay at the top.

*** 5 bolts. 15. Old and in the Way • llb *** 14. Black Hole Sun • lOd

A hard start followed by pumpy climbing .

***

A bolted 6. Beast of Burden • llc variation start to The Beast. 5 bolts. 7. The Beast • llc

10. Uncle Tom • lld **** Stick-clip the 1st bolt and start on the arete. The direct start is a 12b called "Kill Uncle".

*** Gear to 2". ***

16. Bears Choice • 12a

** 5 bolts.

17. Napa Valley Party Service • llb Bouldery start! 4 bolts.

**

8. J"ason and the Argonauts • 12c This route used to be easier and better before some holds snapped at the start. 9. Swallow my Pride • 12b/c Hard! 5 bolts.

*** @

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18. Stone Free • lld

** 4 bolts. 20. The Bear Arete • llb ** 7 bolts and

19. Kodiak • lOd

a little sporty. Climb "Kodiak" 1st pitch .

***

21. Smash N Grab • llc This exciting climb may be climbed as 1 or 2 pitches. 11 bolts.

22. The Bear Crack • lOb *** An old and burly crack. Bring gear to 4.5". 23. Body Snatcher • 12a *** Gently overhanging and sustained . Scramble up a 4th class gully to reach the belay area. 7 bolts in 80 feet of climbing.

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ORTH BAY • MT ST HELENA

The Far Side The Far Side

Approach

This is a fantastic and mellow area with excellent welded tuff, a sweet rock type that is often riddled with small finger pockets. A 45-minute hike keeps crowds at reasonable levels. The 40-70 foot tall spires and domes provide a bonanza of moderate (5.8 -5.10) bolted and partially bolted routes. Some of the climbs are fully bolted, while others require advanced gear placing skills to mitigate the sometimes long spaces between bolts. While this area is great for leading, it is also easy to access the top of many of the spires, making it an ideal spot for top roping as well.

Follow directions for The Bubble (previous pages). From the left side of The Bubble, locate a small but welldefined trail that heads off in the direction The Far Side (the cluster of spires clearly visible to the West). Follow this for about 20 minutes to the rocks.

Gear A rack of quickdraws (8) will get you up most of the climbs. A small rack of gear (to 2") is needed on some of the more sparsely bolted climbs. Since most of the anchors are on top of the rocks, you'll need to use longer slings to extend over the edges when top roping.

Mt St Helena summit, 4343'

To Middletown

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NORTH BAY • MT ST HELENA

The Far Side Lower Far Side The first route you will encounter upon arriving at The Far Side is route #1, The Shute Mills Route. 1. Shute-Mills • 5.9 *** The first bolt is quite high, but the route is well protected after that. 2. New Tradition • 5.7 *** This fun climb journeys up aretes and overhangs.

**

3. Saviour Heart • 5.9 Bring gear for the big spaces between the bolts.

****

4. Mystery Hole • lOa A wandering face that feels quite commiting until you discover the hidden 4th bolt above the "mystery hole" . 5. Eat Your Wheaties • lOd PG some runouts on easy ground .

** Has

6. Feelin' Your Oats • lOa R *** Bring gear to 2" for the runout spots. 7. Cereal Killer • lOa *** This fun climb journeys up aretes and overhangs.

**

8. Death to the Right • 5.9 A mixed route that rquires gear (to 2").

** Requires

9. Step to the Left • 5.8 gear to 2" to be safely lead .

10. Something Good • 5.8 PG ** The high first piece, a fixed pin, is not good.

** Nice pockets on

11. J'ardinero • lOa a vertical white face.

12. The Chief • lOd *** (not shown) Only 3 bolts long, but steep and pumpy!

**

13. War Party • 5.1lb R (not shown) 2 bolts on a steep face. Scary.

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The Far Side

**

Arial view and other routes

19. Baby Atlas • 5 .8 Small pockets lead to a left slanting crack. 2 bolts, gear.

The picture below, taken from the air by J erry Dodrill, shows trails (in yellow) and other routes (in red) at The Far Side.

14. Boneless Chicken Ranch • llb PG 3 bolts + gear to 1.5". Nice pockets! 15. Seymore Frishberg • lOa PG

***

***

2 bolts, gear to 2" . A sweet arete climb.

16. Farther • 5.8 protected lead.

** 3 bolts. Short, well**

17. Let's Climb Naked • 5 .8 (Aka "Far") The crux is just getting off the ground . 2 bolts.

**

18. 18NY • lOa The left line. 2 bolts, gear to 2" for the lower crack.

**

20. At Last • lOd This is the left most of three bolted routes. A #1 Camalot protects the clipping of the 1st bolt. An awkward start leads to nice moves on very sharp pockets. 5 bolts.

***

21. Atlas • lOc PG The center route. A cam under the roof protects the high 1st clip. 3 bolts. Steep and juggy!

***

22. Atlas Shrugged • lOa PG The right route. Climb past the old anchor to a new anchor at the top. 3 bolts.

***

23. Lichen Rash • 5.9 (Aka "Kola") Stupendous views and nice rock. Optional 1.5' cam between bolts 1 and 2.

Hai Istone Rock While the rest of the Bay Are shivers under a freezing shroud of winter fog, Eric Berghorn enjoys T-shirt weather nearly a mile higher on Hailstone Arete. Sixty miles to the south, 3,849-foot-high Mt. Diablo pokes above the sea of fog. Recently developed Hailstone Rock is approached via a steep trail that begins above The Bubble (see the map on page 34). There are four established routes, listed here from left to right:

***

I. Hail Fire • lib Thin face to a roof. 7 bolts. 2. Close Encounters of the Bird Kind • lOd 3. Hailstone Crack • 5.9 Gear to 4". 6 bolts. 4. Hailstone Arete • 5.9

*** ***

**

NORTH BAY • MT ST HELENA

Kimball Can_yon Kimball Canyon

Approach

Fun, 70-foot-tall sport routes in a shaded and incredibly remote (for the Bay Area) location on the western slope of the mountain. The climbs are vertical to slightly overhung on (fairly) solid volcanic rock. A beautiful (and stout) hour-and-then-some hike will ensure that you will have the crag to yourself. This is a pristine area, please don't trash it in any way.

From the parking lot on the north side of the highway, walk back (west) along the highway and hike up a paved service road on the right. Pass a gate, and soon after, an abandoned house. Follow the road for over a mile until it turns to dirt and eventually a footpath for the last half mile or so. Shortly, you will see a large rock outcrop up ahead - this is the "Turks Head", and if you reach it, you've gone too far. Instead, after descending a hill, look for a significant creekbed that crosses the road (wet in the winter and spring) and find a faint trail heading up the canyon on the right. After hiking steeply uphill for about 30 minutes, you will begin to see scraps of twisted metal along the trail - the eerie remains from a 1956 airplane crash. The obvious crag is a few minutes further. The entire hike takes about and hour and twenty minutes.

When to go The crag is mostly shaded, making it a good choice for summer, spring and fall, or on the warmest winter days.

Gear A rack of quickdraws (12).

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NORTH BAY • MT ST HELENA

Kimball Canyon Crag Southeast Face These climbs are found on the left side as you approach the crag and are sunny in the morning. The routes on both sides of the crag were named in honor of the 1956 airplane crash that impacted just below the crag.

**

L Sweet Dreams • lOa Take the left Une of bolts. The right variation is 5.11.

**

2. Flying Machines • lOc A little cleaner than the previous route, with fun and tricky moves near the top.

*

3. Topropes • 5.8 (not shown on topo) Between "Flying Machines" and the bolted projects are a couple of top rope routes with bolted anchors.

**

4. Projects • 13? (not shown on topo) Just downhill from Flying Machines find this overhanging south-facing wall with two hard, bolted projects.

North Face These climbs are found on the right side as you approach the crag and are shaded throughout the day. The crag is seldom visited, so the holds can be hard to spot before they've been chalked up a bit.

**

5. T-33 • lla (not shown on topo) This four-bolt route is the farthest left on the north face, twenty feet left of "Shooting Star".

*

6. Shooting Star • lla This climb is a bit dirty. It will certainly be more fun once it cleans up.

***

7. Sad Wings of Destiny • lla Climb the arete past seven bolts to a fun crux consisting of many sidepulls.

**

8. Ceiling Zero • 12a Thin and powerful stemming up a shallow green groove. 9. Black Sheep Squadron • lOd dirty stilL but good for a pump.

**

* A bit

10. Pilot Error • llc 5.9 climbing leads to a hard crux near the top.

NORTH BAY • MT ST HELENA

Table Scraps Table Scraps Pinnacle

Approach

This lonely plug of volcanic ash sits on th e southern flanks of Mt St Helena. Bolted with beginners in mind, this chossy, sun-drenched rock is destined t o become popular. Wait a few days after a rain so you don't break off all he holds.

From the parking on the south side of the highway, find the Table Rock trail and follow it for about 10 minutes to an open area with a view of the pinnacle across a valley. Continue up the trail for about 10 more minutes to a T in the trail, turn left and follow the trail for another 10 minutes directly to the pinnacle.

Gear A rack of quickdraws (10). The top of the pinnacle is fairly easy to scramble up if you want to set top ropes.

To

When to go Spring, Winter, Fall. No shade, ever.

7'

Middletown

Table Scraps Pinnacle

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NORTH BAY • MT ST HELENA

Table Scraps Pinnacle Northwest Face

South Face

These short climbs are found around the corner to the left of the main face and are shady in the morning. The bolts are closely spaced and the climbs offer plenty of resting spots - a great place for fledgling leaders. Please consider waiting several days after a rain to avoid breaking holds (the rock is weak when wet or damp).

The main (south) face of Table Scraps Pinnacle features tightly-bolted climbs on slightly crumbly rock. This face is in the sun all day and is a great winter crag. The wall bakes in the sun and is too hot during the summer months.

1. Hobolicious • 5.6 * This route is still

5. Wine Style • lla ** Steep moves up some choss leads to easier climbing.

a bit dirty. 2. Cayucos • 5.6 ** A little cleaner than the previous route,

*

3. Monster Quest • lOb Come in from the right or go up the flake to start. 4. Tuko Pomoja • 5.9 ** A few steep moves lead to easier climbing up high.

4 . Tuko Pomoja • 5.9 ** A few steep moves lead to easier climbing up high.

6. Oaksterdam • lOb ** Big holds pass a huge knob and lead to 5.6 climbing to the top. 7. :Jesus Christ Superbolter • lOd ** A few steep moves lead to a rest and then more steep climbing up high.

***

8. Table Scraps • 5.7 Steep climbing up a cool runnel feature. 9 bolts + anchors. This and the following route are the best on the cliff.

NORTH BAY • MT ST HELENA

able Scraps Pinnacle South Face - continued

***

9 . Appertif • 5.9 A steep move ear the start is the crux and leads to ustained 5.8 on big knobs and pockets - he rest of the way. 7 bolts + anchors.

10. Soul Sister Thunder • 5.7 Choosy slab with nice views.

*

11. Food Baby • 5.5

*

Cruddy rock that may clean up someday to make a nice beginners lead.

12. Top rope access • 4th class Scramble up ledges in back to access the top, and keep in mind that holds can break!

NORTH BAY • MT ST HELENA

Table Rock Table Rock

Approach

The Bay Areas biggest cliff (300") looms off the highway as you drive up Mt. St. Helena. Written off as a chosspile until the early 2000s, the cliff has been ambitiously cleaned and bolted and now hosts several worthwhile climbs that range up to four pitches in length. The rock is very fragile when wet- wait 3 days after a heavy rain before climbing!

From the parking on the south side of the highway, find the Table Rock t rail and follow it for about 20 minutes to aT in the trail, turn r ight and follow the trail for another 20 minutes to the 3rd of three scruffy outcrops you will pass. On your right, look for colorful electrical wires sticking out of the ground, and find a faint trail that forks right, around the north side of the rock. Follow this for a few hundred yards to a right bend in the trail where you can pick up a faint trail up the steep hillside that traverses to the cliff.

Gear A rack of quickdraws (16).

• • • • signpost to • Table Rock

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NORTH BAY • MT ST HELENA

Table Rock

*

The Iron Curtain Find this slightly recessed wall in the middle section of Table Rock.

1. Spy vs Spy • lOb

* CHF: 7

This route is pretty chossy. Aim for the huge cobble, 35 feet up. 8 bolts.

*

CHF: 7 2. Big Red Button • llb A little cleaner than the previous route, but not by much. 7 bolts.

*

CHf: 6 3. Double Top Secret • 12a Climb the wall just to the right of the crack. 8 bolts.

**

CHf: 7 4. Double Agent • llb The steep corner. 9 bolts.

**

CHf: 8 5. I shot JFK • llb A chossy start to a better finish . 9 bolts. 6. Kiss my Kremlin • lOb PG CHf: 7 Climb the face just left of the crack, using the crack when neccessary. 10 bolts.

**

7. Standard Issue • lOc CHF: 4 The left of two bolt lines on the central pillar. 9 bolts.

**

8. White Flag • lla CHF: 5 The right of two bolt lines on the central pillar. 8 bolts.

***

CHF: 4 9. Aloha Patrol • llb A rare (for the Bay Area) multi-pitch route. The route was equipped as a four pitch route, but can be done just as easily in two pitches Pitch 1: Climb either Standard Issue or White Flag. Linking pitches 1+2 is no problem if you have 20 draws + a couple longer slings to reduce rope drag.

10. Fist Full of Rubles • 5.8 CHF: 6 The left of two bolt lines on the right side pillar. 9 bolts.

*

11. Defector • 5.8 CHF: 6 The right of two bolt lines on the right side pillar. 7 bolts.

The Shock Block The buttress to the right of the gully.

***

CHF: 3 12. Warcraft • lOa The first bolt line right of the gully.

**

13. Svetlana • lOa CHF: 5 A vertical wall leads to a dark corner system and then easy climbing to the top.

**

CHF: 6 14. Beer Factor • lOb A tricky move past the first bolt and a small roof up high are the hard parts.

*

CHF: 7 15. Spankterfied • 12a Stick-clip the 1st bolt due to choss.

**

16. Lost Cause • lOd CHF: 6 Climb the face just left of the crack.

*

17. Idle Hands • lOb CHF: 8 The rock gets a little better up high. The 1st route right of the crack.

**

CHF: 7 18. Decorator Crab • lOb Either start from the ledge (8 bolts, 5.9) or scramble down around the toe of the cliff to a lower start up a tricky dihedral (12 bolts, lOb).

***

19. The Moderator • lla CHF: 7 Three pitches. Parts of this climb were ascended in the past, as evidenced by the old bolts near the crack.

**

Pitch 1: Climb either Warcraft or Svetlana to a two-bolt anchor at the lip of the wall.

****

Climb a short crack Pitch 2 • lOa pitch to another 2-bolt anchor. 6 bolts.

Pitch 2 • lOb Steep climbing above the belay past some nice pockets. Is fun and technical Pitch 3 • llb on steep and relatively solid rock. It gets extra stars for its wild position. 7 bolts.

**

Chossier than the Pitch 4 • 5.10b lower pitches, but with a great position that tops out in dramatic fashion . 8 bolts. Descend by rappelling the route or walking off to the east. A single 60 meter rope works for the rappels (3).

*** **

Has a spectacular Pitch 3 • lOd position, but some unfortunate rock up high. Descend by rappelling the route or walking off to the east. A single 60 meter rope works for the rappels (3).

*

20. Drive-In • 12a CHF: 4 Short but exposed w/ interesting moves.

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NORTH BAY • GOAT ROCK

Goat Rock Sunset Boulders

Driving directions

A jumble of hous'e-sized boulders of dense serpentine lie on a grassy shelf above the Pacific Ocean near Goat Rock State Beach, providing North Bay climbers with an excellent spot for both bouldering and toproping.

From 101 just north of Santa Rosa, take the River Road I 116 exit and head west for 30 minutes to the junction with highway 1. Turn left to head south on 1 for one mile and then turn right into the entrance to Goat Rock State Beach. Park 1/4 mile down the road on the left.

When to go Any time of the year, weather permitting. The rock dries almost instantly after a rain. Please consider packing out any trash you may encounter on the trails or at the rocks.

Gear Shoulder-length slings and a few locking carabiners for the top ropes, pads for bouldering.

•.
:"'9•

Sunset Boulders To Bodega Bay

NORTH BAY • GOAT ROCK

Goat Rock - Sunset Boulders From the parking area, stroll down the trail towards the obvious rocks. The hike takes about 4 minutes.

The Ram The centerpiece of ·the Sunset Rocks. The easiest way to the top (to set top ropes) is 5.5 a sketchy lead or free solo!

***

1. Sunset Face • 5.9 (tr) Climb the left side of the face on consistently small holds. The right side of the face is 5.10.

***

2. Sunset Corner • 5.8 Start in a nice lieback and climb the corner.

***

3. Sunset Slab • 5.8 (tr) Start in a nice lieback and go right past slabby cracks.

***

4. Gullsville • 5.5 R/X This is the easiest route to the summit of The Ram It can be led or soloed to access the top rope anchors of other climbs.

***

5. Osprey • 5.9 (tr) Climb the nice face between the two aretes.

****

6. Pelican Arete • lOb This nice double arete can be top roped.

*** (tr)

7. Killer Crack • llb thin crack and face. 8. Buckets • 5.9

Climb the

***

Mammoth Rock Mammoths may have used this rock as a rubbing post - check out the polished sections.

***

9. Sunset Traverse • V2 R to L, finish up the crack, arete or dihedral.

***

10. Great White • V2 Start in the undercling and climb straight up.

***

11. Final Exam • Vl Start on the undercling and climb the shallow dihedral/face.

***

12 . Mid Term • Vl Climb the slippery finger crack. A variation starts to the right. 13. Mammoth Arete • V2 left side of the arete.

**

*** Climb the

14. The End • VO The juggy dihedral around the corner from the arete.

The Hard Boulder The backside of this boulder has several hard and steep problems.

15. Hard • Vl

**

Up hollow jugs.

***

16. Hard Up • V2 Start low and climb the ramp up and right.

***

17. Hard- On Low • VlO Stay low and traverse the wall right to left.

***

18. The Hard-On Traverse • V6 Traverse the face from right to left, reversing the moves on Hard Up and finish on Hard. Start about 15 feet right of where the wall becomes overhung.

*

19. Boner • V3 Start low and climb into the ramp and then up and left.

BAY • GOAT ROCK

The Lamb Boulder The backside of this boulder has several hard and steep problems.

1. Lamb Arete • V2

**

Sit start and climb the balancey arete over a bad landing.

***

2. Rock Scar • V4 Sit start and climb up and right to a big move to a jug. 3. Skullcracker • V2 *** Sit start on the jug and climb left to a groove with jugs.

**

4. Calambity • V6 Sit start on the jug and power up over the overhang to a slabby topout.

**

5. The Specialist • V5 Sit start and climb the cool flake and slab over buttdraggy terrain.

**

5. The Lamb • VO Climb the spooky thin crack up the tall slab over a potentially bad landing,

NORTH BAY • DRY CREEK SEA CRAG

Creek Dry Creek Sea Crag

Driving directions

A wild atmosphere sets this crag apart - a day here is a day away from just about everything. About a dozen routes have been done, ranging from 5.10 up to a 5.14 project. The best routes are the 5.13s, but there are also a handful of fun climbs 5.11 and below. The rock is typical coastal Greenstone, solid with crisp edges and thin seams.

From US 101 just north of Santa Rosa, take River Rd. I hwy 116 and drive west for 27 miles to hwy 1. Turn right (north) and drive 6.2 miles to a turnout on the left just past a closed parking area.

When to go Year round. Usually hotter in the winter than the summer. Summer days, when the fog burns off and the wind kicks up, are best for the harder routes on the main wall.

Approach A trail heads west towards the sea from the middle of the pullout. Hike steeply down to the rock (about 20 minutes) and scramble first up, and then over the rock mound. Find a trail that leads back down to the ocean side of the rock in the vicinity of the route Gorgath. The hike back out is steep and takes 25-30 minutes.

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ORTH BAY • DRY CREEK SEA CRAG

Dry Creek Southwest Face

*

1. Rackless Crack • lOc Climb the tricky seam and face. Four bolts.

**

2. Bohemian Bypass • 12c Start up the crack (gear to 4" for the start + long slings to minimize rope-drag). 3. Pseudo-Bohemic Hitch-Hiking Youth • Technical and sequential. 12d

***

4. Judge Dread • 13b **** Long and sustained on small holds.

****

The obvious, yet 5. Project • 14? unclimbed line up the middle of the wall. 6. Jury Duty • 13c **** The original line on the wall, sustained and powerful.

*

7. Crack of Zorro • lla This is a heads up gear lead. Gear: to 3.5".

***

8. Sport Wall • llc PG Bring gear to 3 '. Hard and sequential. Clipping the 1st bolt is scary and a bit dangerous.

**

9. Dry Creek Crack • lOa PG Start in the gully and climb a nice hand crack on the r ight wall. Gear: to 4"

**

10. Red Slab • .lOa Climb the face past 3 bolts to a bolted anchor.

**

11. Gogarth Crack • .llb (tr) Top rope the oddly spooky and pumpy dihedral thru a roof to a clean slab.

NORTH BAY • FORT ROSS

Fort Ross Fort Ross Boulders

Driving directions

The main boulder at the nameless and windswept beach near Fort Ross answers the question "is it worth driving two hours for a single boulder?" In this case, hell yeah, it is! The beautifully textured Rosstafarian boulder would fit right in at worldclass sandstone destinations like Font or Little Rock City.

From US 101 just north of Santa Rosa, take River Rd. I hwy 116 and drive west for 27 miles to hwy 1. Turn right (north) and drive 13.8 miles to a small turnout above the beach. A 2-minute scramble down a steep trail leads to the beach.

When to go Year round, but wait several days after a soaking rain to avoid breaking holds. The sand level also varies drastically, occasionally covering starting holds or exposing rocks at the base and making the problems extra highball.

Rosstafarian Boulder

**

1. Left Arete • V6 Start low on the "ball" and angle up and left.

*****

2. Fort Rossta • V6 Start on the "ball" and go up past a big move. Perfect. 3. Traverse Variation • V7

start on the "ball".

**** Low

***** Grand Finale • V9 *****

4. Living a Dream • V6 Stand start the right arete. The sit start is

13.7 miles to CA 116 junction 1 mile to Fort Ross rd. ---?

ORTH BAY • FISK MILL COVE AREA

shroomland Shroomland Boulders

Approach

Three small but killer bouldering zones featuring super-grippy coarse sandstone blobs in a remote setting.

The boulder visible from the 1st pullout is the Shroom Boulder. Crossing the highway will bring you to a trail that heads towards the Ocean. At the coast, turn left and cross a creek and continue another 100 yards or so until you bump into the Boulders; the Waterfall Crack is down to the right, hidden in a pit. The Diamond Boulder is a little further down amongst the rocks near the water and is only accessible during low tide and swel l. To reach The Johnny Cash Boulders, continue 1/10th of a mile past the 1st pullout to a 2nd, smaller pullout on the left. Park and walk north on the highway for about a hundred yards, past a slightly visible rock on the uphill side of the road that has a large, fallen tree next to it that blocks an older trail. Continue for another 100 feet and locate a very faint trail near an old wooden post and a small boulder. The Johnny Cash boulders are about 75 yards up in the woods. Please tread lightly and leave no trace!

Driving directions Find a small dirt turnout on the right, 21.4 miles north of hwy 116 or .6 mile south of Fisk Mill Cove. The Shroom Boulder is visible just behind the turnout. A second, smaller turnout is on the left, .1 mile north, for the Johnny Cash Boulders. Leave no trace!

Johnny Cash () Boulders

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Fisk Mill Cove, 0.5 mi.

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Shroomland parking about 21.5 miles from CA-116/CA-1 junction

Shroom Boulder

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wateria11

NORTH BAY • FISK MILL COVE AREA

Shroomland Boulders "Shroomland" is made up of 3 bouldering

zones spread out around a small pullout along highway 1, 21.5 miles north of the 116 I hwy 1 junction.

The Johnny Cash Boulders 1. :Johnny Cash • V5 *** Right finish . 2. Mud, Blood, Beer. V3

*** Left finish .

3. Yellowfoot • V2 *** Sloper topout! 4 . Fungus Amungus • V1 ** Low start.

5. Up • V2

*** Sit start in the cave.

6. Traverse • V4 *** Left to right.

@-o ,0 Johnny Cash Boulders

a_®

The Shroom Boulder 7. Crack • V1 * Sit start finger crack.

***

8. The Shroom • V4 Undercling to a high left hand pocket, to a hard mantle or an easier hand traverse to the right.

9. A Rock and a Hard Place • V6 Up the shallow crack.

***

*****

Sidepull rails to a sloper, to the top. Excellent!

10. Vice Grip • V3

The Waterfall Boulders 11. :Jump Start • V5 ** Jump start to slopers and dyno and mantle. 12. Alyssa Milano • V7 ** Jump start to

right hand sloper and up.

:

***

Sit start a steep prow with left hand pocket, right undercling.

13. Uplifted • V7

14. Waterfall Crack • V 4 **** Sit start

at the base of the splitter crack and don't fall in the spooge! Bad landing when wet!

t his rock is just visible from t he road

15. Diamond in the Rough • V3 ***

Climb the right side of the "Diamond Boulder" Shroom Boulder

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16. The Matrix • V5

*** Center route.

17. Left Eye • V7 ** Climb the left arete.

NORTH BAY • FISK MILL COVE AREA

Secrets Secrets

Driving directions

Named for a nearby secret surf spot, the mite-tong shelf of otherworldly tafoni sandstone that spans between Fisk Mitt Cove and Horseshoe Cove is a unique wonderland of boutdering opportunity. The problems are quite spread out and can be hard to find, tucked as they are into crannies and on hidden sea watts. Chalk is quickly washed away and the rocks often have a coat of grit. Approaching this area with a sense of exploration and appreciation of the wild atmosphere might yield the most fun .

Fisk Mitt Cove, a currently closed but access-friendly State Park is found 22.5 mites north of the 116/hwy 1 junction. Parking for North Secrets is found 1.3 mites further, on the left in a small dirt pullout.

Approach A small trait through the grass leads down to the coast from the parking area. Check the map on the next page for an overview of the area.

Gear Lots-0 pads.

Horseshoe Cove I

North Secrets parking area (1.3 miles past Fisk Mill Cove)

/

·.

.

/

. ..

./

·

·. The .· · · . .:· Playground :

_.........................................................-

Playground parking area (Mile marker 4366, 1 mile from Fisk Mill Cove SP)

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Secrets

•

scale: 1 inch = 200 feet

•

•

·.o •

•

• • • • • •

• • • • • •

•

•

• • • • •

• • •

trail to parkir on highway 1

• •

.....__....

•

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•

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•

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• • •

•

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•

•

• • • • •

•

• •

•

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• • •

•

•

•

Secrets The photos are a sampling of the established problems at Secrets; there are many others. You will get lost. You will feel sandbagged . You might drown. A hold might break. You will have a great time.

NORTH BAY • FISK MILL COVE AREA

Fisk Mill Cove Fisk Mill Cove

Driving directions

This remote stretch of coastline to the north and south of Fisk Mill Cove lies just off highway 1, about 20 miles north of Jenner. Dreamy seaside benches of exquisitely shaped Tafoni sandstone comprise a complex zone of boulders and cliffs. The short climbs and boulder problems are spread sporadically, necessitating an exploratory attitude. Area classics like Captain Hook (lOb), Seabiscuit (12c) and Blockhead (V3) combine with outrageous scenic beauty to make the long drive well worth the effort. Please leave no trace.

Fisk Mill Cove, a currently closed State Park that was essentially just a parking lot, is found 22.5 miles north of the 116/hwy 1 junction. A small dirt pullout on the left (west) side of the road is found a few hundred yards past the closed park entrance. For the Playground, park at a long and narrow pullout on the left, about .9 miles further up highway 1.

Gear 13 quickdraws and I or a light rack. Long slings for top-roping. Two or three crashpads for the bouldering.

When to go parking (mi. marker 4366)

I Barnacle Bill Boulders

Any time of year. The Treasure Chest base area is not somewhere you want to be when the swell is big. Check for times of low swell and tide (2-4 feet). If the swell is very low (under 3 ft.) the tide height is not so important.

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Fisk Mill Boulders

.

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.·. i · .. ·· ·. Sentinel Rock ..:'··::__---- -··

(Treasure Chest, Shipwreck Wall)

Fisk Mill Cove State Park (closed)

NORTH BAY • FISK MILL COVE

Sentinel Rock Sentinel Rock

Driving directions

Sentinel Rock broods over Fisk Mill Cove like ... er, a sentinel. The sport climbs on the three sections of the massive rock, The Shipwreck Wall, The Treasure Chest, and The South Buttress all have a decidedly wild vibe. The climbs are fantastic yet seldom visited. Because of constant exposure to surf and the relative lack of traffic, the walls are often gritty and cryptic. A brush and a few ascents quickly solve the problem, revealing great, adventurous climbing.

Find a slender dirt turnout (mi. marker 4286) near an old wooden fence, 0.1 miles past the sign for Fisk Mill Cove SP (22.2 miles from hwy 116). Theres room for three cars.

Approach From the parking, follow a faint trail towards the coast until it intersects a better trail. Skirt the right side of the dome to reach the beach and The Shipwreck Wall. Skirt the left side of the rock (Bluff Trail sign) and near the bottom, you will see the South Buttress climbs; now scramble up slabs until you are on top of The Treasure Chest and locate the bolt anchors for rappelling to the base.

1 mile to Fisk Mill Cove SP

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Kruse Ranch Rd.

parking (room for 3 cars)

The Treasure Chest

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NORTH BAY • FISK MILL COVE AREA

The Treasure Chest The Treasure Chest is the west face of Sentinel Rock. Finding it for the first time is tricky since you can't see it until you are on top of it. Follow the trail next to the Bluff Trail sign as it skirts the left side of the dome and then scramble up the slabs to your right and rappel down to the base. Visit when the swell height is low (sfgate.com/weather). If the belay area at the base is wet, think twice before you rap in. You'll need to climb at least 5.10c to get back out (or if the tide+swell are low enough you can scramble north to the beach). Rogue "sleeper" waves are not uncommon, so bring down only what you need to climb, or it may get washed away!

1. Rappel I approach anchor Locate bolts in a groove at the top of the wall and use them to descend to the base.

***

2. El Sabroso • 13b Short, powerful and bouldery. Stick-clip the 1st bolt.

****

3. Captain Hook • 10c Wild moves up an arete, into a bombay ch imney and over a roof. Fun and scary!

***

4. Captain Cr unch • lld Nice face climbing and a small roof.

**

5. Captain Cornburglar • llc Up a fun seam to slab moves up top.

***

6. The Angler • 12b Nice flow crossing the face.

****

7. Mr. Salty • 12b A hard start followed by an elegant seam.

***

8. Booty • 10d Great moves, sinker holds, you'll wish it was longer!

**

9. Blue Beard • llc Quite hard to read when there is no chalk on it (almost always the case).

**

10. Gritty Kitty • 5.8 The imposing corner crack. A great adventure for the grade! Gear to 3".

***

11. Salty Dog • llc A steep slab with cool holds. The Treasure Chest - South Buttress is found by scambling down the left (south) margin of Sentinel Rock. The South Buttress is only a stones throw from the Treasure Chest area, but is accessed differently, via a short 5.6 down-solo (or rappel), that leads to the rocky base.

****

12. Sea Biscuit • 12b Cool moves slapping the arete lead to an exciting finish over the waves. Classic! Lean across the chasm (stick-clip is nice!) to get on the route. The belay stance is funky.

****

13. Swashbuckler • llc Start up seabiscuit (hard first move) and then work your way to the right and into the corner. Wild!

***

14. Sea Serpent • 10d The same adventurous start as the previous route, but traverses right on pockets past two bolts on the right wall of the dihedral and finishes up the arete.

NORTH BAY • FISK MILL COVE AREA

Shipwreck Wall Shipwreck Wall is the northwest face of Sentinel Rock. Scramble down to the rocky beach and around to the face. Shipwreck is the wall to climb on if the surf is big since it is less affected by waves. Shipwreck is a seldom visited crag and the routes need brushing to remove grit that accumulates over time: super-good karma for brushing!

1. Crows Nest • lla

**

Solo up the chimney to an anchor and take the left line of bolts.

***

2. The Patriot • 12c Same chimney start as the previous route, but go straight up. Nice rock and moves!

***

3. Conquistador • 12a Long, with hard moves past the "bathtub".

*** 5. Pegleg • 5.9 ****

4. Yardarm • 12a Move right at the "bathtub". A Sonoma Coast classic! There is a big move near the top that might be 5.10. Ok, it is 5.10, and you're pumped when you get there, and its reachy. But everyone still calls Pegleg 5.9 because if they say 5.10 they will look like a wuss.

***

6. Avalon • 12a Nice crack near the top.

***

7. Pebble Beach • 12b Be careful passing the ledge.

** 9. Scallywag • lOa **

8. Lost at Sea • lOd Climb the first half of"Pebble Beach". Two 5.10 moves at the 1st clip, then 5.8.

NORTH BAY • FISK MILL COVE AREA

The The Playground

Driving directions

The Playground is a complex area of open sandstone benches, mere feet above the wild Pacific. The climbs are short, with an equal mix of trad, sport and bouldering. Take care when climbing or bouldering close to the sea as rogue waves in this area can strike with unexpected power, especially in the winter. Please consider packing out any trash you may encounter on the trails or at the crags.

Park on highway 1 at the long pullout on the left, one mile past the Fisk Mill Cove SP entrance (mile marker 4366).

Gear Ten quickdraws and a light rack are all you need for the short lead climbs in the area. Longer slings are useful for top roping. A couple of crashpads for bouldering.

parking (mi. marker 4366)

.

'

•• Mill

Fisk Boulders

.·.

i':-. ·.... Sentinel Rock _: · .. · ··· ·-' 0

(Treasure Chest, Shipwreck Wall)

NORTH BAY • FISK MILL COVE AREA

The Playground

***

Great bouldering plus some very short sport and trad routes (40 feet high) with easy access top roping are set in a coast side paradise at The Playground. To get there, park on highway 1 at the pullout 1 mile past the Fisk Mill Cove SP entrance (mile marker 4366). Locate either trail (one near the south end or one near the north end of the pullout) and hike west through a grassy field approximately 400 yards to the sea where the trail forks. The left fork leads shortly (less than one minute) to the descent to the Conch Crag and Playground Buttress. The right fork leads to a few great boulder problems, notably the Blockhead, a twenty foot high, freestanding boulder on a shelf on the oceans edge. Further, just past a creek, are the Barnacle Bill boulders and the classic problem Barnacle Bill (photo on page one).

5. The Nautilus lla This route would get five stars if it was longer. Power pulls between Ceuse-like pockets. 6. For Play lOb Three bolts.

** Steep, juggy face.

Playground Buttress is another 35-foothigh cliff that has three leadable cracks. 7. Playtime 5.9 climb.

8. Epiphany lla clean dihedral. 9. Bear Hug 5.6 Toprope or lead.

** A nice low-tide sport ** Tough climbing in a ** Up the twin cracks. **

10. Bear Hug Face 5.10b Climb the blank looking face left of #9.

* Up the chunky crack. 12. Log Jam 5.10a ** Turn a four-

The Conch Crag is a 30ft. high cliff with several easy-to-set top ropes.

11. 5.6

1. Approach to top. Bring quickdraws for bolt anchors and long slings to loop horns for top rope anchors.

foot roof near the bottom and finish up a crack in a corner. Bring gear to 4" if you're up for leading it. 35ft.

**

2. Sandman lOd Climb the sandy crack above a small roof.

The Blockhead and Barnacle Bill are two great boulder problems (among others). Check the map below for their locations.

**

(tr) Traverse left on 3. Sleeper llb good pockets to start.

****

13. Blockhead • V3 (no topo) cl imb up to and over the center of the roof.

**

A good top rope 4. The Conch lOb (or lead) up the short, black crack. A few cams to 3' .

****

(no topo) 14. Barnacle Bill • V4 Climb the face in the photo on page one.

Barnacle Bill

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WEST BAY • BLACK SAND BEACH

Black Sand Beach Black Sand Beach

Driving directions

Bouldering on these secluded beaches is always fresh due to changing sand heights and lack of chalk (the waves wash it off daily). Two zones, Hidden Cove and Last Cove, each feature cirques of overhanging rock. Warning: you are likely to see naked people (mostly guys) here.

From Marin, take the Sausalito exit (last exit before crossing the GG bridge). Coming from the City, take the first exit after crossing the GG bridge. Head up onto Conzelman Rd. for a couple of miles. Where the road turns one-way, continue for another mile or so till you see a paved parking lot on the left (3.5 miles from the start of Conzelman Rd ..)

When to go Most of the bouldering is only accessible during times of combined low tide and swell. The swell plays a very important factor and you should look for swell heights of no more 3.5 feet in combination with the low tide of the day. If you hit it just right all the problems will be dry and climbable.

Gear Pad and a towel (for wiping sand off your feet!)

Approach A trail from the lot heads down to the beach (10 minutes). Once at the bottom of the trail, walk west (right) for another 5 minutes to a cliff that ends the beach. Walk up the steep gully and back down the other side to reach Hidden Cove (don't try to climb over the middle = certain death!). To reach Last Cove walk along the coast another 5-10 minutes, till you reach the end.

'3.5 miles to US 101 or 0.8 mi. from start of one-way road .

.oop road back 0 us 101

---

One-way rd. •

alternate trail • (watch out for :

Poison Oak!)

To US 1 : Sausali

3rd Class scramble

, Don't try to climb over the middle! Highly unstable!!

·,

WEST BAY • BLACK SAND BEACH

Black Sand Beach Hidden Cove Walk to the (northwest) end of Black Sand Beach and up a gully and around the point -don't try to climb directly over the cliff or you could get killt. The next two coves have overhanging walls of brittle, twisty serpentine strata that are not usually topped out. A final shorter wall faces the ocean and has some fun easy top out problems. There will likely be zero chalk on the rocks and an exploratory attitude will yield the most fun. Sand heights may be drastically different than in the pictures! Many loose holds!

Hidden Cove - North Side Hidden Cove is the second of two coves you'll encounter walking north on the beach. There are good problems in the first cove as well (not shown).

1. Jaws • Y2 * Sharp.

***

2. Intruding Dyke • Y6 Start low, climb over the roof and up the highball face on very sharp holds. Kind of classic.

3. Y4

** Sit-start and drop-off, unless

4. YS

** Traverse

you're Kevin Jorgeson.

5. Y4 * Sit start, drop-off. 6. YO-Y6 * There are many other hang and drop problems between #6 and #7, but watch out for snapping holds!

South Side This is a very high wall with sometimes loose holds. There are more problems I solos around on the ocean-facing wall, and in the next cove.

7. Snake Charmer • Y3 way up the "snakes".

** Pinch your

** Sit start, drop-off. 9. Y3 ** Sit start, drop-off. 10. Y3 ** Sit start, drop-off. 8. Y4

11. Sunset • YO R *** An easy and super-high problem /solo with loose rock near the top; a fall could be bad from up there.

Hidden Cove Front Side Walk out of the cove to find this 15ft. high wall continuing to the north. This wall has solid rock.

** Follow the vertical joints. 13. V1 ** Follow the vertical joints. 14. V3 ** Climb up the blankish face 12. VO

on sidepulls and gastons.

***

15. The Undercling Thing • V1 Make a hard move to get off the ground and follow the undercling feature leftwards.

**

16. V1 Get your feet up and power up to the big rail.

**

17. V2 Start low and stay in the blanker part.

18.

vo

**

WEST BAY • BLACK SAND BEACH

Black Sand Beach Last Cove This small cove is only accessible during very low swells and tides. Walk to the end of West Black Sand Beach and around the point. The cove is about 200 feet wide with SOft. high cliffs. To date none of the problems top out due to the height and I or crumbliness up high. There will likely be zero chalk on the rocks and an exploratory attitude will yield the most fun . Sand heights vary and may be drastically different than in the pictures! South End

***

1. Traverse • VS Start 25 feet right of the chimney and traverse left. 2. V2 *** Start low and go up past a

slanting crack.

3. V4 *** Perfect rock. 4. V4 *** Excellent rock.

Central Face These problems are on the wall in the middle of the cove. If the sand is high during your visit, the ratings could be different. Perfect rock. 9. Sweaty Betty Traverse • V3

***

5. V6 *** Excellent rock.

Sloper lip traverse on amazing stone.

6. Do you Squeeze? • V1

*** 7. Stemple Stem • V2 **** Sit start.

10. Wide Wendy • V6 *** A powerful slap from underclings to a hard mantle.

Amazing rock and cool moves.

11. Mild Marge • V1 ** Slopers.

8. V1 **

12. Weird Wanda • V2 *** Start low.

Last Cove West Face The West Face has some great problems. The only drawback is that you can't top them out without risking your life. The holds up high (20+ feet) can snap with alarming suddenness, and headfirst diggers into the sand really hurt from that high up!

13. Brick Buster • V4 *** Climb the prow passing a sloping " brick" . Drop off when you feel like it. This could be a great, SO-ft. sport route.

*****

14. Best of the Bay • VS Start under the roof and make a hard reach to the lip and go up and right. Hang and drop at the horizontal break, 15 (or so) feet up. Amazing rock.

***

15. Sleeper Cell • VS roughly follow a left-arching seam to a high up drop-off jug. Several variations have been climbed to the same jug. 16. Cutter Traverse • V3 *** Start as far left as you can and traverse as far right as you can .

***

17. Cutter • V3 Extra stars when the sand is low because some very nice holds are exposed . Dropping off is recommended because the rock is brittle up high (pictured on right).

)

WEST BAY • RING MOUNTAIN

Ring Mountain Split Rock and Turtle Rock

Driving directions

This modest little mountain is packed with fun and beauty. At just a hair over 600 feet high it hosts majestic views, Native American petroglyphs and a lattice of trails providing sublime short hikes. Two outcrops of solid Schist provide great bouldering and top roping. We can thank the Tiburon Mariposa Lily -a Serpentinesoil loving plant that grows nowhere else in the world - for saving this unspoiled bit of prime Bay Area real estate.

When to go Any time of the year.

From US 101 in Marin County, take the Paradise /Tamalpais Dr exit and follow Tamalpais Dr east towards the bay. After about 2/lOths of a mile, veer right onto San Clemente I Paradise Dr. and go 2 miles and turn right up onto Taylor Drive and follow it to the end. Paradise Market, on the left, is a good place to pick up snacks on your way out.

Approach From the parking area, Split Rock is straight ahead. To reach Turtle Rock, take the road to the right for a few hundred yards to a dirt road on the right and follow that 150 yards till you see Turtle Rock on your left.

To San Rafael, Richmond Bridge

Corte Madera

Paradise Drive

D Paradise Market

Taylor Road

dirt. · •

Turtle road Rock •••• :

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Rock

The Flake • VO

liZ!D1iJ

Sarah Eirich cruises some good Schist at Turtle Rock. The Flake, a great beginner problem, has a sit start that bumps the grade to V 2.

WEST BAY • RING MOUNTAIN

Split Rock Spectacular views (paid dearly for in the nearby multi-million dollar homes) and a variety of 30ft. tall face and crack climbs make Split Rock a favorite with locals (the older of whom remember when only a faint deer trail provided access to the once deserted rocks). Top rope anchors require gear to 2", some long slings and solid experience with placing gear. If you're going to boulder the routes bring lots of skill, pads and medical insurance.

West Face 1. Split Rock Traverse • V4

**

Start on the left end of the rock and traverse mostly easy ground to a tricky crux just before the split on the south face.

*

2. Split Rock Dihedral • 5.9 Climb the dihedral to an awkward crux up high.

**

3. Left Arete • lOa Climb the baloney arete. Lots of pads to boulder this!

***

4. Left Wall 5.9 Stay on the face between the arete and the crack. Fun!

East Face

5. The Ramp • 5.8

** High and thin . 6. Center Crack • 5.5 *** Super-fun

8. Center Face • 5.10a Jugs to the left or right are off-route.

finger-crack.

9. Slippery Crack • 5.8 Juggy crack turns to slippery smearing up high.

7. Center Crack Right • 5.6

**

**

**

10. Right Wall • 5.8

* Scary to solo!

Turtle Rock South Face 11. Southwest Arete • 5.9 through the leaning corner.

** Climb up

** 13. Left Arete • 5.8 ** 12 . South Crack • 5.8

***

14. Split Rock Chimney • 5.2 Sit start anywhere in the chimney and climb up using both walls. Might be 5.3.

**

15. Right Arete • 5.10a Stay on the arete and go straight up. Some hollow holds up high make this a dangerous solo. Top roping may be prudent.

** 17. Black Streak • 5.5 ** 18. Bunny Slope • 5.3 ** 16. South Face • 5.6

Inside Split Rock A top rope or the ability to quickly stem into chimney mode are essential for safely climbing these 25ft. tall faces. There are at least a dozen different routes that offroute the opposite wall.

****

19. Pinball Wizard • 5.10d Awesome, technical moves. Climb the crack to a sloping she If and then cut right past edges to a spooky mantle below the lip. Slip to learn what its like to be a pinball.

***

20. Pinball Direct • 5.llb Climb the line straight up to the finish of Pinball Wizard .

**

21. Bobzenes' Wall • 5.12 Marin local Russ Bobzene climbed a stack of hard problems back in here in the 80s.

**

22 . West Face • 5.10 Many variations and routes have been climbed on this wall as well; the best one goes straight up the middle.

WEST BAY • RING MOUNTAIN

Turtle Rock Turtle Rock is one of the Bay Areas premier boulders - home to the classic Turtle Rock Traverse as well as scores of fun and moderate uf problems and harder eliminates. The 360 views of the Bay and Mt Tam complete the package.

South Face

1. Turtle Rock Traverse • VS

****

Start with your feet just left of a waist high overhang and follow the line on the topos for the "official" VS way. There is a higher variation thru the last crux that makes the traverse V4 (see topo). Pumpy! Any section of this super traverse makes for a fun problem by itself.

*

2. VO Grab the sloper shelf and mantle up.

East Face

***

of hidden incut flakes.

7. Right Side • Vl Start on juggy underclings and follow the line on the topo.

4. Goldrush • V2 ** Straight up past polished slopers and edges.

8. East Face • VO ** High and fun and a little scary.

5. Fools Gold • V4

* High and insecure. 6. Left Side • V4 * Stay on the left

9. Jugs • V2 ** A nice problem with some loose blocks up high. Be careful!

side of the arete and try to go straight up. Scary!

10. Turtle Toe • VO

3. Vl ** Climb straight up using a couple

11. vo

*

* Climb the crack.

Turtle Rock North Face

* Sit start the flake and go up. 13. Traverse Jr. • V2 *** Sit start the flake and traverse right, below the lip, 12. VO

to finish on problem #15 . 14. Center Route • V3 Stand start is VO.

**

Sit start.

***

15. The Flake • V2 Sit start with a right hand sidepull and climb the flake. The stand start is VO.

**

16. The Seam • V3 Sit start same as The Flake, but instead cl imb the right leaning seam. The Flake is off-route.

**

17. The Undercling Route • V1 Start on the low rail and move left to the undercling and up to a high finish .

**

18. The Reach • V3 Start on the rail and make a gigantic move to the pinch-able sloper flake at the lip.

**

Start 19. The Crimper Route • V1 on the rail and climb up and right past a few sharp crimps.

**

climb up 20. The Sloper Route • V1 past the sloping shelf, trending left.

WEST BAY • MT TAMALPAIS

Mt Tarnal pais Mt. Tamalpais

Driving directions

Mt Tamalpais rises steeply from the Pacific Ocean to a height of 2,517 feet -by far the tallest peak in the area. On the summit, its not uncommon to find yourself well above the fog -the snarl and smog of the Bay Area hidden and muted under a thick blanket of fog. The views alone are well worth the trip to the top, but when you throw in a days worth of fun top ropes and boulder problems, you complete the recipe for a great day out.

From US 101 in Marin County, exit CA 1 I Stinson Beach and drive for about .6 of a mile on Shoreline Hwy. to the junction with Almonte. Turn left, remaining on Shoreline, and continue 2.5 miles to the junction with Panoramic Highway. Veer right on Panoramic and drive about 1 mile to the junction with Muir Woods Road; stay straight on Panoramic (middle lane). Continue about 4.5 miles to the junction with Pantoll Road. Turn right onto Pantoll, and drive about 1.5 miles to the junction with Ridgecrest, turn right and continue for a couple of miles to the East Summit Parking Lot ($8).

Approach From the parking lot hike up the East Peak trail to the summit (5-10 minutes). The crags are on either side of a steep, broad canyon, just below the summit to the east. Find narrow climbers trails to the base of either crag.

Ridgecrest Rd .

Gear Long slings (30 to 40 feet) and a few medium cams for setting up top ropes.

Tamalpais Corte Madera

Mill Valley

\

WEST BAY • MT TAMALPAIS

Mount Tamalpais The East Tower and West Tower are on either side of a steep, broad canyon just below the summit and to the east. Find narrow climbers trails to the base of either crag.

Rock and The Leaning Tower 8. Obermans • llc (tr)

North Crag 1. Sun Slab Left • 5.6 (tr)

**

This climb almost got an extra star for its sunny disposition.

2. Sun Slab Undercling • 5.7 (tr)

**

A step to the right gains a short undercling crack to join route #3.

3. Sun Slab Center • 5.10 (tr)

**

9. Buoux • lOd (tr)

***

Stay to the right of The Prow, on a line of nice finger-pockets.

10. The Prow • 10c (tr)

***

South Crag 11. :rug Haul • 5.7 (tr)

:Jugs lead steeply through an overhang and into a crack.

5. Grovel Groove • 5.6 (tr)

*

Climb the gully with stemming and grunting.

6. East Ridge • 5.7 (tr)

**

Climb the arete, but use caution to not create a dangerous swing when rigging your toprope.

7. North Face - 5.6 (tr)

***

Climb the juggy central crack through a steep bit (not shown).

***

Traverse from #8 and crank straight up the steep arete.

Thin moves up a clean slab of steep rock.

4. Equinox • 5.8 (tr)

***

Pull the 12-foot roof at its largest spot. A healthy swing results from a fall down low.

**

Climb big, slightly loose jugs on the left side of the formation .

12. Burl • 5.8 (tr)

**

Climb the steepest, juggiest line up the faint prow.

WEST BAY • MT TAMALPAIS

Mt Tam 13oulders Mt Tam Bouldering

Driving directions

Well-hidden in the forests along East Ridgecrest Rd., near the summit of Mt Tamalpais, are a number of quality serpentine and sandstone boulders, and a handful of great problems. There are six different zones covered by this book, each one offering at least a handful of good problems.

From US 101, exit at CA 1 I Stinson Beach and drive for about .6 of a mile on Shoreline Hwy. to the junction with Almonte. Turn left, remaining on Shoreline, and continue 2.5 miles to the junction with Panoramic Highway. Veer right on Panoramic and drive about 1 mile to the junction with Muir Woods Road; stay straight on Panoramic (middle lane). Continue about 4.5 miles to the junction with Pantoll Road and turn right. Drive about 1.5 miles on Pantoll to the junction with Ridgecrest. This is the Rock Springs parking area, set your odometer and follow the mileages given for the different areas on the following pages.

When to go You can climb on Mt Tam any time of the year, although Summer temps may be less than ideal for the harder problems.

Spirits Lakeview Boulders

.

o Wall

iP ·... .. ."·· · .·' ·a::

... . 0()o

Summit Boulders

Rock Springs Parking (set odometer here) Ridgecrest Road'---.....

Panoramic Highway

Mill Valley

ST BAY • MT TAM BOULDERS

ount Tam Bouldering

The Eastern Bloc

Most of the developed boulders on Mt. Tam are found along East Ridgecrest Road. Set your odometer at The Rock Springs parking tot, 1.4 mites past the Mount Tam SP entrance at Pantott Rd. (map: previous page). Follow the mileages given to each rock.

The Molar

From the Rock Springs parking tot, drive .7 mites to a slender pullout on the right (room for two cars). The rock you are parked on is the Bayview Boulder. The Eastern Bloc is across the road, about fifty feet up the hilt. Use the trait. There is more parking, 70 yards further, on the left.

***

At the Rock Springs parking tot, cross the street and walk along the fire road for about 100 yards and fork right on a smatter trait (Old Mine tr) for about 50 yards to The Molar on the left of the trait. The Molar Traverse • V 4 * (not shown) From left to right, start on easy ground . There are several up problems as welt. Great view!

. The Roadside Boulder From the Rock Springs parking tot, drive .4 mites to a parking tot on the right where you witt find the boulder.

*

1. The Pocket Problem • V2 Climb up through pockets and underctings. Highball. 2. The Camel Pie Traverse • V7 ** From left to right, start 15' left of the crack and go right. A lesson in vertical footwork. 3. The Camel Toe • V4 * Start near the crack and go straight up. Highball top out. 4. Camel High • V1 * The high, easy problem on the right side of the watt.

5. ATF Traverse • V6 From left to right. ATF =Alcohol, Tobacco and Forearms. 6. The Center Route • V4

*

1. Limb Burger • V 4 * Sit start. 8 . The Warm Up Crack • V2 * Sit start and climb the crack. 9. 38 Special • V5 ** Sit start on the sideputt rail and move up and slightly left. 10. Snake Charmer • V5 ** Start the side putt rail and go up past a right hand crimp.

***

11. Target Practice • V4 Start on the rail ana traverse right to a jug on the tip.

The Bayview Boulder This boulder is just below the parking pullout described for the Eastern Bloc. 12 . Stand Start • V6 ** Sit start: V8? 13. Scenic Cruise • V3 ** The ramp feature. Sit start, hard at the top. 14. Liechen Detector • VS ** Sit start. 15. Truth Serum • V5 ** Sit start.

WEST BAY • MT TAM BOULDERS

The Lakeview Boulders A parking area (about 2 miles from Rock Springs) accesses the Lakeview Trail at the east end of the north side pullout. A few hundred yards up this trail a large boulder on the left side marks the faint trail downhill to the other boulders. The Trailside Boulder has a fun V3 traverse and some up problems. The next boulders downhill are the Cairn and Corridor Boulders.

The Building Block The Southwest face of this boulder is 20+ feet high and has some great highballs. 10. The Best Damn • Vl *** Sweet highball I solo on the faint left a rete. The Devil Wears Prana is a V 4 that moves left from the sit start of The Best Damn. 11. Contact High • Vl ** The center face. A hollow hold fifteen feet up should be gripped lightly.

The Trailside Boulder Next to the trail, a few hundred yards from the parking.

12. Eraser Arete • V2 ** The highball right arete.

1. Trailside Traverse • V3 * From right

to left.

The Big Hunk

2. Trailside Sit Start • V5 * Near the end of the traverse, do a sit start and go straight up.

The Cairn and Corridor Boulders These two boulders are the next ones downhill, about 75 feet below the trail. 3. Campus Girlz • V8 *** Start low on sidepulls and do a few bumps wIthe left hand to a jug at the lip and go up. 4. Kitty Hawk • V5 * Low start right of Campus Girlz. 5. Bush Pilot • V5 * Right of #4, same start holds. 6. High Heeled Hookers • V2 * Start left of Kitty Hawk and traverse the lip left to right to the end . 7. Girl Power • V6 ** On the overhanging back of the boulder, sit start and do a powerful move or two to the lip. 8. Hi Hoe Silver • V3 ** Traverse from the downhill bottom of the boulder and along the lip.

***

9. The Old Man Card • V2 Start low matched on an upside down V-shaped hold and go straight up, veering right along the lip. A V6 finish traverses right on a thin crimp a few feet below the lip.

13. Hunger Strike • V8 ** Straight up the middle of the slightly overhung face. 14. EC Does It • Vl ** Climb the high arete just left of the previous route. 15. 5.10 Arete • lOa ** (tr) The 30 foot high arete to the left of the previous route. 16. The Slab • V2-V4 ** Three high problems are found on the slab near the upper end of the boulder. The center line is the hardest.

Pee Wee's Playhouse The downhill side of this rock sports a small cave with the following two problems: 17. The Little Adventure • V7 ** The left problem, low start. 18. Adult Entertainment • V7 ** The right problem, low stgrt.

The Lakeview Slab The tall slab on the downhill side of Lakeview Rock is around 35 feet high and has some fun toprope routes.

**

19. Lakeview Slab • lOd (tr) The center route is the hardest, the left is lOa and the right is 5.9. These climbs are never crowded, have a nice view and some fun moves. Bring long slings for toproping.

Spirits Wall Continuing past the Trailside Boulder on the Lakeview Trail, you will arrive shortly at a dirt road. Follow the right forks past a strange looking building to another cluster of odd buildings and radio towers and spot the rock in the trees to your left.

***

20. Absynthe • V3 The left arete, low start, highball finish, classic!

* Straight up slab. 22. Two-Buck Chuck • VS * Sit start 21. Beam Me Up • VS

right sidepull and low left crimp.

***

23. High Spirits • V7 Low start, left hand stdepull, right hand sloper or higher pinch and slap to the rail and go straight up the highball finish. A rightward traverse has been done from the starting holds - Cocktail, VS .

PeeWee's Playhouse

•

u, ' 14 15 16

Big Hunk

.'$)Corridor , Rock •

,,

9

'

Rock Springs Parking 2 miles ..;

'

Service Road

' Trailside

••

Surnrnit Parking - I rnile

'.

··-

,,

12

, 300 yards {about)

,

,,

0 The )o Building { 11 Block

,

,

,

2

" Service Road

.-

l)

Spirits Wa ll

.-

.

. ...

WEST BAY • MT TAM BOULDERS

Bootjack Boulders As you drive back down the mountain, the big Bootjack parking lot is about a third of a mile from the intersection of Panoramic and Pantoll (the Mt Tam SP entrance). A half mile further, there is a small pullout (two cars) on the right before a hairpin turn . There is a bigger spot just after the turn . From the smaller pullout, cross the street and find a faint trail heading up into the woods. Follow the trail carefully for about 100 yards to two large boulders.

The Instinct Boulder This is the nice boulder just left of the trail. 1. Left Arete • V2 * Climb up near the

tree.

2. Intuition • V4 *** Start on a ratti ly sidepull and go up to a crimp and then a jug at the lip. The sit start is V6/7. 3. Instinct • V4 ** Start on the low ledge and traverse right into #4 . 4. Right Arete • V2 **

The Cheech and Choss Boulder The boulder 20 feet uphill from the Instinct Boulder. Left Arete • V2 * (not shown) Sit start and go up past a couple of pockets. Center • V2 * (not shown) Up the middle of the face. The sit start is V7.

WEST BAY • MICKEY'S BEACH

Mickey$ Beach

Driving directions

Gigantic Greenstone boulders at the Oceans edge are the setting for one of Californias most unique climbing zones. The climbs are hard - few areas in America can dish up a can of whoop-ass the way Mickeys Beach can. While complaints of greasiness are sometimes warranted (when the tide is up and the sun is out), the true local will learn a confluence of conditions (low tide, a gentle breeze and shade) can create prime "sending temps". Indeed, a late-afternoon redpoint above gently breaking waves glowing pink and orange from the sinking sun can be sublime.

From US 101 exit CA 1 Stinson Beach and drive for about .6 of a mile on Shoreline Highway to the junction with Almonte. Turn left, remaining on Shoreline (Hwy 1) for about 10.25 miles (if you get to Stinson Beach you've gone 1 mile too far) Look for a huge dirt parking lot on the left.

Approach From the parking lot hike down the trai l to the Main Rock (5 minutes). Steep, scruffy trails lead to either side of the Main Rock. Most of the bouldering is down on the beach where all the naked people are.

When to go Mickeys beach is truly a year round destination. That said, you'll find the ocean side routes are often wet, so its best to consult the tide table (sfgate.com/weather-look for a low tide below 3 feet and swells under 5 feet). During the winter months, the sand level varies drastically, changing the height and landing areas of the boulders.

Gear Quickdraws (10) for the Crashpads for the boulders.

climbs.

I Mill Valley

@i) To San "" Francisco "'-..

Whales Back -t The Whales Back is a humongous boulder that juts into the sea 50 feet north of the main rock. Belaying on top, you can feel the entire rock move when a big wave hits. Whether leading or top roping, the following climbs require a 4th-class solo up or down the east ridge to ascend or descend. Both routes may be top roped if you can solo the approach . Low tide only!

***

1. Rust Never Sleeps • lOa PG Fun slab moves lead past a gear placement (l-inch cam) and 2 bolts to an anchor on the lip. Low tide only! Photo -+ -+

**

2. Out of The Blue • 5.9 PG This line shares the initial cam placement with the previous route, but forks right, past 2 bolts. A bit run out. Low tide only!

l"'-

-.a

:-:. =::.

...-..

a

------

--:,_-

WEST BAY • MICKEY'S BEACH

Main Rock - North Face The North Face of the main rock at Mickeys Beach features some of the hardest climbs in the Bay and is less tide dependent than the West Face. The climbing is th in and technical, yet powerful at the same time.

*

1. Torque • 12a Slightly contrived . This greasy climb has bolts for leading but is usually top roped.

**

2. Stemmer • lOc A runout and a bit of loose-ish rock near the top make this lead a bit spooky. 3. Walkin' a Thin Line • lOb *** Thin moves up a clean slab of dark rock. A traverse at the third bolt to a mantling jug is the way to go.

**

7. Dream of White Porsches • 13b **** A bouldery masterpiece. Use the kung-fu toehook beta at the crux for full style points. This was the Bay Areas first 5.13, put up on top rope way back in 1987 by Harrison Dekker and Scott Frye.

*****

8. Dream On • 13b/c Climb the crux overhang on 7, but then traverse up and right onto the beautiful and sheer headwall.

*** Dreams variation. Beach Arete • 13b *****

9. Insomnia • 13b

10. A beautiful line of sweet features on a striking arete. A chipped pocket at half height can be avoided, upping the grade to 5.14a - the hardest in the Bay.

4. Pelicans • 12b Traverse on a foot rail to a confounding encounter with a bulge, a sidepull feature and a desperate move to the right.

Peeping Tom Boulder

5. Holy Mackeral • 13a *** Straight-up the black streak using small holds.

11. Tool User • V6 R *** Start back to the left on good crimps and then make a big move to a smaller crimp and climb the highball VO arete.

**

6. Wet Dreams • 12c A painful and powerful jump to a jug leads to some fun moves on the arete.

The big rock to the right of the main rock has the following two climbs:

**

12 . Peeping Tom • 5.9 If you can find the proper holds this really is only 5.9; mess up and it will feel much harder.

**

13. Hand Traverse • V2 On the rock at the base of the main crag, start far to the left, and then traverse rightward across the lip. The Low Traverse • V 4 *** stays below the lip and finishes around the right corner and up the nice arete. The Direct • V6 goes straight up the center of the wall.

**

WEST BAY • MICKEY'S BEACH

Main Rock -West Face The West Face of the main rock at Mickeys Beach is perhaps the Bays most atmospherically unique crag. The Pacific ocean stretches infinitely into the horizon with only a jumble of boulders between you and the pounding surf. Because of this setting, a low tide and small swell (3 feet or less) will bring the best conditions for dry climbing.

*****

10. Beach Arete 13b A beautiful line of sweet features on a striking arete. A chipped pocket at half height can be avoided, upping the grade to 5.14a - the hardest in the Bay.

***

11. Naked and Disfigured 13a Hight ech climbing leads fo a burly finish .

***

16. Ocean Monster 12b (Link-up) Start Gidget and cut left before the third bolt and finish on Motion. 17. Gidget (Meets the Turgid Seamonster) 12d Some claim this is the best route on the rock!

****

***

18. Sturgeon 13a/b A key hold broke, turning this former .12c route into a 5.13.

**

19. Scurvy 12d Burly liebacking and finger-jamming up to and over a small roof.

****

12 . Mutiny 13b

20. Courtney lld/12a Your first S.lld? Definitely harder for shorter folk. Take care getting to the second bolt.

feel not too bad if you hit it in cool, dry conditions.

21. Nancy lld At the fourth clip, move right, around the arete. Trickier, but physically easier than Courtney.

** Thin and technical. 13. Hot Tuna 12a *** A climb that can

** TR from Hot Tuna. 15. Motion in the Ocean 12c ***

***

***

14. Moby Dick 12a

22 . Squid Vicious 13a Wait for a low tide and dry rock. Stick clip .the 1st bolt.

Powerful "Gaston" moves along a seam.

23. Sex Porpoises 12c Hard moves between jugs.

***** Classic!

EST BAY • MICKEY'S BEACH BOULDERS

Micke 5oul

5each

Mickeys Beach Bouldering

Driving directions

The big boulders scattered around Red Rock Beach (known to climbers as "Mickeys Beach"), offer great bouldering in an exotic local next to a nude beach . The biggest rocks fell out of the hillside in 1987 and have cleaned up nicely over the years. If you decide to boulder naked, you may find it hard (or easier depending on your gender and attractiveness) to find spotters.

From US 101 in Marin County, exit CA 1/Stinson Beach and drive for about .6 of a mile on Shoreline Highway to the junction with Almonte. Turn left, remaining on Shoreline I highway 1 for about 10 miles (if you get to Stinson Beach you've gone 1 mi le too far) Look for a huge dirt pullout on the left (room for 40 cars).

When to go

Use the Mickeys Beach directions (page 118).

You can find good conditions any time of the year. The rock can get wet from ocean mist or high tides, but can be dried with chalk and a brush. The sand height can vary to an astounding degree throughout the year; its generally highest (and best) during the late summer and early fall. The days when all the problems are in condition (dry, good landings) are rare, but they do occur and are awesome. The problems around the Main Rock and The Orange Buddha Boulder are almost always good to go.

Gear Pads and a towel for getting the sand off your feet. Extra chalk can be good for drying off damp holds.

Approach approach

WEST BAY • MICKEY'S BEACH BOULDERS

Mickeys Beach Boulders Nude Beach Boulders The main bouldering area at Mickey$ Beach is next to the nude beach called Red Rock Beach. Note: the sand levels vary drastically throughout the year ratings and safety change depending on the sand height!

1. Grace Face • VS *** Sit start and go straight up on slopers and crimps. Use a spotter to avoid hitting the rock behind . 2. Don't Worry, Be Slappy • V6

****

Sit start on a good rail under the roof and technique or power your way past the slopers above.

7. Bound by Tension • V10 *** Start

on edges on the right and work out to the left arete and then back right. 8. Peek Experience • V1 R ** Super highball face. Make sure the the sand is up or you could get killt. 9. Way of the Wah • V8 **** This

is a fantastic problem when its dry which is seldom. Check it in the late summer and early fall. Sit start under a roof on a rail and climb out and over the lip on slopers. (Not shown on topo). 10. Spanish Inquisition • VO ** Climb

3. Baseball • V4 *** Sit start and go

up the middle past a good sloper.

straight up or slightly right past a key undercling .

11. Blank • VS ** Try to climb straight

4. Diagonal • V2 *** Start as low as

you want and climb the diagonal crack. 5. Peeping Tom • V4 *** Sit start on

a sloping shelf and go straight up on crimps. The crack is off.

6. Peeping Tom Traverse • V8 *** Sit start on a sloping shelf on the right end and traverse left, staying low.

up between the holds to the left or the right if that makes any sense.

***

Sit start and climb the arete as straight up as you can. ·

12 . MB Arete • V2

13. Surf's Up! • V2 *** A beach classic!

Start low and find the sneaky jugs. The jug at the lip is going to break one day and this will become V3 .

14. Jugs • VO ** Climb the rails to the

right of the previous route. Bad landing.

Mickeys Beach Boulders Orange Buddha Boulder This zone is found on the trail that leads behind the boulders on the way to the beach.

15. Orange Buddha Arete • V8 *** Sit start in a pit between the two boulders. 16. New Favorite • V3 *** Start lowish and go straight up to the hold in the polished slab and exit left.

**

17. The Rail • VO Traverse the rail and pray the whole thing doesn't topple and crush you. 18. Orange Pleasure • V4 *** Sit start on positive crimps and go straight up. 19. Back in the Day • V4 * Sit start on a big sloper and climb up past a pocket.

23. Lefty • V3 *** Climb the baloney arete from the right side.

***

24. Powerslab • V5 Climb the highball face, roughly following a faint righttrending seam. Best when the sand is covering all of the boulders at the base. 25. Welcome to Red Rock • V2 *** Up the high face. Best when the sand is up.

The Red Monster The biggest boulder on the beach .

**

20. Double Cracks • V1 Up the middle of the face. Low tide dependant. 21. The Crevice • V2 *** Start low between the two boulders and climb rails till you can grab the arete. (Not shown).

** Climb the

22. Double Arete • V2 face and the two aretes.

**

26. The Fryeball • V4 Climb the highball east face between the two aretes. Cleaned with an extendo-brush on the FA.

**

27. Old School • V2 Sit start on a flake. and go up the edge.

**

28. Old-School Traverse • V3 Traverse the boulder from left to right. Stay low around the initial corner.

WEST BAY • MICKEY'S BEACH BOULDERS

Stinson 5each Boulders Stinson Beach Bouldering

Driving directions

The big boulders scattered around t he far southern end of Stinson Beach have some nice problems, ranging in difficulty from VO-V11.

From US 101 in Marin County, exit CA 1/Stinson Beach and drive for about .6 of a mile on Shoreline Highway to the junction with Almonte. Turn left, remaining on Shoreline I highway 1 for about 11 miles to the town of Stinson Beach. Park in the huge lot as far south as you can.

When to go You can find good conditions any t ime of the year. The rock can get wet from ocean mist or high tides, but can be dried with chalk and a brush . The sand height can vary to an astounding degree throughout the year; its generally highest (and best) during t he late summer and early fall. The days when all the problems are in condition (dry, good landings) are rare, but they do occur and are awesome. The Are You Experienced? Boulder is al most always dry.

Approach Make your way to the beach and walk south on the sa_nd till you hit the boulders.

Gear Pads and a towel for getting the sand off your feet. Extra chalk can be good for drying off damp holds.

WEST BAY • STINSON BEACH BOULDERS

Stinson Beach Boulders Old Man Boulder The giant Old Man Boulder at tha southern end of Stinson Beach creates a cove with a nice sandy beach in the middle. 1. The Warm-Up • VO ** Hand traverse up the arete and top out. The face up the middle is also VO ** (not shown). There are a bunch of other problems on this boulder, mostly V3 and under that are fun and worth doing.

2. Old Man Traverse • VB *** Traverse the boulder from left to right and finish on the Old Man Flake. Quite cryptic when the chalk is gone, which is the · norm. Extra points for doing this when the tide is up! 3. Diagonal Crack R • Vl ** Climb the right-trending crack to a scary topout (or climb down!). There is a youtube video of a kid falling off from near the top if you want to see what that looks like.

**

4. V2 R Up the highball face to a freaky topout. 5. V2 R

** Another spooky highball.

6. Old Man Arete • V3 R *** Start on edges on the right and work out to the left arete and then back right. 7. Old Man Direct • V4 R *** Climb the center of the face on cool features to a highball topout of drop off. 8. Old Man Flake • V4 PG *** Fun moves up the arete and into the undercling crack. Stay left for a harder finish. 9. Old Man Lieback • VO PG ** (Not shown on topo). Find this big flake around the corner from the arete - its more of a short solo than a boulder problem.

Are You Experienced? Find this boulder past The Old Man Boulder against the hill. 9. Arete • VS ** Sit start the short,

burly arete.

10. Manitou • VlO ** Start low on a

left hand scoop and go up past a right hand gaston . This was one of the Bay Area's hardest problems when first done (by Russ Bobzene) in the 1980s. 11. Little Wing • V7 *** Stand start. The sloping starting edge can be hard to reach when the sand is gone. The sit start is V9 (when the sand is gone) . 12. Central Scrutinizer • VS ** 13. Standard Route • V3 ** Start low on the undercling and up the groove. 14. Are You Experienced • V9

***

Stand start left hand on a sloper meatwrap and traverse low from left to right and top out #16 15. Smiley Face • VS *** Stand start

right hand on crimper.

16. The End • V4 **

WEST BAY • THE EGG

The Egg The Egg

Driving directions

The Egg is a 60ft. high chunk of dense Greenstone perched on the edge of the Pacific Ocean. Slabs of all angles are found at The Egg, from low-angle to vertical or just beyond, this is the place to hone your small-hold skills. For a perfect get away, reserve one of the cabins just across the beach at Steep Ravine (reserveamerica.com). If you visit on a low tide day (zero or less - www.sfgate.com/weather), you can enjoy a post-climb soak in a miraculous hotspring 100 yards to the north.

From US 101 in Marin County, exit CA 1/Stinson Beach and drive for about .6 of a mile on Shoreline Highway to the junction with Almonte. Turn left, remaining on Shoreline I Hwy 1 for about 10 miles (if you get to Stinson Beach you've gone 1.3 miles too far) Look for a long dirt pullout on the left (room for 10 cars), just past the paved road that goes down to the Steep Ravine cabins.

When to go You can find good conditions at the Egg throughout the year. The Egg also dries quickly after a rain, and most of the routes are not affected by high tide.

Ridgecrest Rd.

Approach From the parking pullout, locate a trail that heads steeply down to the ocean (5-10 minutes). Once at the bottom of the trail, walk south (left) for another 3 minutes to the rock.

Gear Ten quickdraws.

Tamalpais

Corte

Madera

Mill Valley

\

WEST BAY • THE EGG

The Egg Most of the climbs at the Egg are top rope-able (if you don't mind scrambling up a 4th class slab). Park at the pullout 100 yards past the road to the Steep Ravine Cabins on highway 1 and locate the steep trail that leads down to the ocean (5 min.). Walk south about 100 yards to the rock. On sub-zero tide days, you will find a hotspring at the bottom of the trail.

**

1. Coffee and Cigarettes • lOc A new route (2011) with a tricky crux passing an overlap near the top. 2. Green Eggs and Ham • lOa Another new, two-bolt slab.

**

**

3. Egg on Your Face • 5.9 Crisp, tiny edges define this short but fun face climb.

***

4. Egg Arete • 5.6 PG A two-bolt lead up the striking arete. Be careful on the long run out to the belay.

****

5. Egghead • lla A fallen boulder has made the start much shorter and easier than the original start.

***

(tr) 6. Jungle Work • 12a This old Alex Catlin toprope problem features thin and desperate crimps on the West Face.

***

7. This is Your Brain on Drugs • 12c Cryptic old-school slab-style is the name of the game here. Once the moves are figured out, a redpoint becomes reasonable.

***

8. Sign Language • llc This scenic arete has a heady position above the Pacific. A broken hold has upped the grade. -

***

9. Sunny-Side Up • lld This route makes up for some sandiness with a majestic position above the ocean. A very hard start is followed by beautiful and thought-provoking slab moves on an orange wall.

***

10. Shell Shock • 12b A hard boulder problem must be cracked before tackling some great slab and arete climbing higher up.

0

.

!

\

X

•'

,

0

0

WEST BAY • SURF SAFARI

Surf Safari The Surf Safari Boulder The huge Surf Safari Boulder looks as if it it stopped mid-roll down a steep hillside 100 yards above the ocean, its 40 foot underside hanging precipitously above the void.

When to go Year round.

Driving directions Follow directions for Mickeys Beach, but backtrack 1 mite to a small turnout (room for several cars) and park.

Surf Safari

Approach Follow a faint trait towards the sea, along the ridgetop through rocks and poison oak and zig left on another ridge and down to the rock after about a five minute hike.

****

1. Endless Bummer • 13b The left route. Named for the awkward mantle and exit from the "surfboard" ledge near the top. You must stand up on the final ledge in order to claim an ascent.

*****

The right 2. Surf Safari • 13d route. This was one of the hardest climbs in California when first climbed by Scott Frye back in 1992.

I

SAN FRANCISCO • BEAVER STREET WALL

Beaver St. Wall Beaver St. Wall If you need a quick break and some fresh air with your climbing, this scrappy wall is it. The easily top roped Beaver Street Crack, is a fun 60ft. high route on chert so polished you can see your reflection!

When to go Year-round.

Gear Long slings to set a top rope. Gear to 2" to make a foolhardy lead of the chossy crack.

Approach Find a parking spot (the crux} and locate the wall. To get to the top, walk back to the street and turn right and walk to the end of the block and up a path to the top .

• ••••

.•...... . •• •• •• ••

• ••

• • • • • • • •• • Corona •• • Helahts •

Park

•

• •• • • • • • • •

The Beaver Street Wall

***

1. Beaver Street Crack • lOa This climb gets three stars because its the only real rock climb in SF. Top rope it from chains on top.

2. Beaver St Direct • lla

**

Skitter across glassy rock from the top of the short ramp.

**

3. Beaver St Right • llb Fun moves on big jugs that are loose towards the top. 4. Beaver Street Aid Ladder • 12a

**

This chossy and slippery climb has been recently rebolted with nice glue-ins.... not recommended as a top rope because of loose rocks on top.

SAN FRANCISCO • GLEN CANYON PARK

Glen

Park

Glen Canyon Park This super-polished pile of short Serpentine cliffs is sadly San Fransiscos biggest bouldering spot. Accessibility and relatively fresh air combine with a few nice problems to make it worth a visit. Would be a great beginner spot, but for the height of the easy problems (20+ feet!).

Gear Pads. Long slings and some cams for top roping.

Approach The shortest approach is from Turquoise Way just below Amber Drive: park and follow an unmarked trail down into the canyon .

...

: •

Glen Canyon

• Park

..

Diamond

Heights Blvd

Glen Canyon Boulders 1. Glen Canyon Traverse • Y4

***

Start down around the corner, as far left as you can.

** High + a bad landing. 3. YO ** Jam the handcrack. 4. YO R ** 2. YO X

9. YO ***

10. The Offwidth • YO R 11. YO

5. YO **

1. Glen Canyon Traverse • Y4

as far left as you can.

12. Y2

*** Sit start. 7. Glen Park Slab • YO ** 8. YO ** Sit start. 6. The 5.12 problem • Y2

*** Start

** Up the middle of the "shield".

13. YO **

**

14. YO PG Hard to pad properly because of shrubs.

* Bad landing.

** Bad landing.

15. Traverse • YO as you can.

** Start as far left

** 17. The Unnatural Act • Y3 **** The park classic. Lotsa pads+spotters!

16. Exit Stage Left • YO

18. YO PG

** Highball.

19. The Crack PG • YO ** Highball.

SAN FRANCISCO • CLIFF HOUSE BOULDERS

Clift House 13oulders Cliff House Boulders

Gear

Ocean Beach is an urban blessing for San Francisicans, Auffy sand, surfable waves and beach picnics - a slice of SoCal 15 minutes from downtown SF. The Bouldering here isn't world class, but its fun and getting less crumbly with each ascent. Please be sure to pad any and all boulders behind the landing zones - if a hold breaks and your spotter Aakes you are more than likely to crack your skull on them.

Pads to cover the rocks behind the problems. Most of the time you'll find that landing on the sand is softer than a pad. Bring a brush to clean sandy holds.

When to go Visit when the sand is up, (usually in during late summer and fall). You can even boulder inside the cave when its pouring rain out.

Approach Get on Geary St or Lincoln Ave and head west until you hit the Great Highway. Park as close as you can to the north end of Ocean Beach (near the Cliff House), walk down to the beach and then walk north (right) to the end of the beach, around a nook and you're there.

Pt Lobos--

Geary/Pt Lobos

\----Geary-

D

The Cliff House

48th Ave

Downtown r' San Francisco

Ocean Beach

SAN FRANCISCO • CLIFF HOUSE BOULDERS

The Cliff House Boulders Ocean Beach Boulder and Cave This urban area offers fun bouldering on fairly solid rock over a plush sandy landing. Do be careful! high up, as breaking holds can result in out-of-control falls.

1. Downclimb • Go this way to avoid the deadly downclimb on the left side. 2. Ocean Beach Traverse. V3 From left to right or visa versa. 3. One-Move Wonder • Vl tufa-like blobs.

***

* climb the

4. Three-Move Wonder • V2 ** Find a small, positive right hand crimp and make a move up left to a jug, and then back right to the crack.

* Stay in the middle. 6. Choss Top • VO * Be wary of the 5. Vl

breakable holds near the top. 7. · Left OB Crack • VO holds up high.

* Beware of weak

8. Center Route • Vl ** Start on a sloper and a left hand pinch and move up left to a cool blob. Do a few more moves and drop off or climb over the roof.

**

9. Right OB Crack • VO Fun moves on big jugs that are loose towards the top. 10. Face of 1,000 1st Ascents • V 4 ** Avoid the left arete and climb crimps and pockets to a highball finish.

**

11. Old Man and the Sea • V2 Fun, high problem. Cover the rock behind with pads and spotters - the holds up high are crumbling and could break, resulting in a bad situation.

***

12. Happy Ending • VS A steep problem with solid holds except for the big sidepull block near the top. Hopefully it won't be you pulling on it when it breaks. Stem back to the rock behind when you can and you're done. 13. Happier Ending • V6 ** Add a few moves to #12 by traversing in from the right to left.

***

14. The Rerevisionary • V6 (Not shown) Back in the cave is a hanging feature with graffiti "206" on it. Sit start on underclings and hit a left pinch crimp on the arete and work back and left to a hold followed by a long move to a Jug. Hang and drop. The start is often wet.

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EAST BAY • GREAT STONEFACE PARK

Stoneface Park Great Stoneface Park

Where

This tiny neighborhood park in North Berkeley is home to one of the Bay Areas best little boulders. Most come for the classic "Stoneface" problem, a burly V7, but there are several other excellent problems scattered around the mushroom-shaped rhyolite plug that likewise should not be missed.

From I-80 in Berkeley, take the Buchanan st exit and drive east toward the hills for about 2 miles till you reach the roundabout at the Marin Circle. Drive around this as many times as needed or just for fun and locate Arlington Ave and follow it for .5 mile to Thousand Oaks Blvd and turn left and at the next intersection you'll notice the park on your left.

Gear Pads.

Approach

When to go

Find the obvious big boulder in the middle of the park. There are benches and a table and a big lawn if you want to have a picnic.

Year-round, best in winter.

t----t-Oaks

0

Great Stoneface Park

Th e

Alameda

Arlington Avenue

Martin iher ng Jr

Berkeley

1. Stoneface • V7 ***** Super-classic line on the North overhang. Sit start on the big sidepull. 2. Hoop Dreams • VS **** Straight up from the sidepull sit start. 3. Baller • V4 ** Low start and up.

4. Warm-up. VO ** Start as low as you like and climb up crimps and pockets. 5. The Groove • V2 ** Sit start and grovel up the groove. 6. The Thing • V3 *** Sit start and work up to small crimps on the left and do a big move to the lip. 7. Bandersnatch • V2 *** Sit start on

two sidepulls and make a big move up right.

8. Spider-Man • VlO? ** Start low and climb the bulge. 9. Stoneface Wall • Vl R *** Climb the tall face trending right above a boulder. 10. Sit start • V3 *** Sit start on a sloper and climb up crimps and into # 9.

11. The Ramp • V3 *** Sit start and climb up to the ramp and a cruxy mantle. May also be started on # 10.

EAST BAY • INDIAN ROCK

Indian Rock Indian Rock

When to go

This venerable boutdering park has had more influence on American rock climbing than any bouldering area in the country. Equally loved and hated, the multi-faceted watts of angular Rhyolite have entertained generations of climbers dating back to the 1930s. Indian Rock is famous and notorious for the millions of eliminate problems that have been imagined and climbed by some of the nations top practitioners. For the sake of my sanity, only the problems that can be clearly thought of as "lines" are listed in this book. If you visit, you are bound to run into someone who can show you some eliminates, or you can make up your own.

Anytime of the year, but winter has the best conditions.

Driving Directions From I-80, take the Buchanon St exit and drive east and shortly it witt morph into Marin Ave. Follow Marin tilt you get to the Marin Circle roundabout where you can practice for driving in Europe. Go around the circle as many times as necessary to locate Arlington Avenue. Take Arlington for about 100 feet before branching right onto Indian Rock Avenue. Drive up about 200 yards and you're there.

Gear Pads and maybe a rope for some of the tatter problems. Indian Rockl'o:,

v.o

Albany

Arlington Avenue

Solooo

To I-80 Martin Luther King Jr Way

Berkeley

EAST BAY • INDIAN ROCK

Indian Rock The Front and Slab areas 1. Slab • VO Highball.

* Easiest way up the front. **

2. Slab • VO This is a 25ft. high problem that gets harder as you go up. 3. The Crack • V2 the crack.

** Sit start and climb

4. Little Prow • V2 crack is off-route.

** Sit start, the

5. Summit Route • VO

* Bad landing.

**

6. Arete • V2 Start as low as you like and go up the arete.

**

7. Sloper Traverse • V6 Start on #6 and go left, well below the lip.

*

8. Traverse • V3 Traverse L - R on sharp sidepulls and underclings.

**

Sit start on a little 9. Warm-up • VO boulder and climb jugs up the boulder above.

***

10. Mechanics' Crack • V3 Start in the cave and hand traverse left to right passing a hand and fist jam or two. Top out the right side wall, resisting the urge to stem back to the other side. Scary.

***

11. Worm Drive • V6 Sit start from pads and climb the seam feature to a fingerlock and turn the lip. The stand start is Vl. A spotter is recommended to keep you from fall ing down into The Pit.

Indian Rock Path

Indian Rock Ave

Indian Rock Overview Map

*

12. Steps Left • VO Highball. Can be top roped by tying off the block.

**

13. Steps Center • VO Highball. Can be top roped by tying off the block.

*

14. Steps Right • VO Highball. Can be top roped buy tying off the block. 15. The Block Traverse • V4 Traverse L to R, below the lip

***

**

16. The Ape Overhang • V3 Sit start and go straight over the little overhang. (Not shown - refer to overview map).

**

17. The Ape Traverse • V6 Sit start on jugs and traverse R to L while trying not to let your butt touch the ground. (Not shown - refer to overview map).

*

Take the 18. Beginners' Slab • VO easiest path up the middle of the face by the sidewalk. (Not shown - refer to overview map).

**

19. Cross the Street Traverse • V4 Traverse L - R staying low. Finish on #19. 20. Center Route • VO jug and go straight up.

**

** Start on the

21. Little Roof • V1 Straight up and over the small roof near the end of the wall.

EAST BAY • INDIAN ROCK

Indian Rock The Pit

****

***

22. Indian Rock Traverse • VS A traverse can be made around the entire rock, but most people start at the bottom of the steps. 200 feet long!

28. Embryonic J'ourney Sit • V4 Make a hard, low traverse to the polished sloper and go up, staying left and joining #29 before the birth canal.

23. The Overhang • V2 **** The crux at the lip has spit a few off over the years. A left hand hold on the arete is used near the top.

29. Embryonic J'ourney • V3 *** Up the slab and through the birth canal.

24. Center Overhang • V4 **** Climb straight up the middle, making a long reach from a small but good right hand sidepull edge.

**

25. Right Overhang • Vl Traverse in to the jug at the lip.

**

26. Easy Overhang • VO Go straight up on jugs and traverse left on the ramp.

**

27. The Edge • V4 Scum your left hip into the corner and get the small edge at the lip and work onto the slab, and up into the chimney.

30. Watercourse • V2 *** Polished crimps to a very high finish .

**

31. Double Dyno • V3 Sit start on the jug and fly or climb statically through the next two jugs. 32. Beginners' Crack • VO *** Super fun and very high problem or top rope.

**

33. Face • Vl Stay between the two cracks. 30' high!

**

34. Transportation Crack • VO The easy, right-leaning crack. Highball.

Indian Rock Pegboard Wall 35 . The Edge Slab • Vl ** Climb straight up to an insecure finish . 36. Pegboard Arete • Vl near the top.

* slopey moves

***

37. The Pegboard • V2 Climb up using any hold you can. There are probably 100 eliminate problems within a few feet of this line. 38. The Flake Traverse • V4 ** Climb the flake and then reach left to a small pinch/crimp, match the sidepull and go up.

****

39. The Bubble • VS Climb the flake and then make a long move to the "bubble" , a small pocket for two or three fingers followed by a committing move to a jug and an exciting topout.

***

40. Far Right • Vl Climb the incut holds to a fun rock-over at the lip.

EAST BAY • MORTAR ROCK

Mortar Rock Mortar Rock Park

Where

Mortar Rock is Indian Rocks mean cousin, home to the famous "Nats Traverse", a long, hard VB, and a slew of other hard problems. If you try hard here your fingers will bleed, and you will also get very strong. Along the small parks northern border, you can check out some mortar holes where Ohlone Indians ground seeds as recently as a few hundred years ago.

From I-80, take the Buchanon St exit and drive east and shortly it will morph into Marin Ave Follow Marin till you get to the Marin Circle roundabout where you can practice for driving in Europe. Go around the circle as many times as necessary to locate Arlington Avenue. Take Arlington for about 100 feet before branching right onto Indian Rock Ave. Drive past Indian Rock (on your left) and about 100 yards further up you will find Mortar Rock Park on the right.

Gear Pads, spotter.

When to go Anytime of the year, but winter has the best conditions.

Indian Rock0o:>

vo

Albany

Arlington Avenue

I-80

Buchanon/Morin St.

Berkeley

EAST BAY • MORTAR ROCK

Mortar Rock Park Mortar Rock

****

First climbed way back in 1976 by local Nat Smale, this climb has been a rite of passage far generations of Berkeley climbers. Start on the north face and drop down low around the initial corner - the jug rail is off-route. Finish up The Ramp.

7. The Impossible Wall • V9 ***

2. Brink of Disaster • VS ** Bear hug slaps up the rough prow just left of The Ramp. Watch out for the tree!

10. The Odyssey • V10 ** Stand start on sidepulls and go up using the flake and a sloping jug. The sit start is Vl2 .

3. The Ramp • VS ** The burly end to

11. Bench Wall Crack • V1 *** Fun,

1. Nats Traverse • V8

Nats Traverse. 4. New Wave • V10 *** The first of

From the stand start.

8. Chinese Connection • Vll *** Climb

the sit start into the Impossible Wall.

9. Egypt Air • V9 **** The radical high

left hand finish to Impossible Wall.

high problem. Cover the rocks with pads - the crux is at the top. 12. The Bench Wall • V2 **** This wall

a new generation of hard problems at Indian Rock. Start in a small left hand undercling and go up to a distant Gaston in the corner.

is packed with eliminates, but the direct line is probably the best. Highball with very fun movement.

5. Don't Worry, Be Snappy • Vll ***

13. Bench Wall Dihedral • V1 ** Climb

Go straight up from the Jug.

6. The Impossible Traverse • V13 *** Indian Rocks current hardest, climbed by Chris Sharma in 2006. The link of Nats Traverse into this problem will be stupendously hard when completed.

the little dihedral from a sit start. The landing is bad, so be careful.

14. Edges • VO ** (Not shown) Just

around the corner from the Bench Wall is a fun edgy face. Start low for extra fun .

Mortar Rock Park The Hand Traverse Wall

***

15. The Hand Traverse • V1 Hand traverse the top, beware of the rock behind you.

**

16. Pifeline • VS Traverse from right to lef , avoiding the lip. Top out #18 to make it harder and cooler.

**

17. Rimshot • V3 Match the sloper edges and slap the top and hang on. 18 The Girls' Problem • V4 *** Stand start on two miserable pinchy things, high step the right foot and go up. The sit start is VS.

**

19. Left Arete • V1 Sit start and climb the arete. The left foothold is on.

**

20. Little Half Dome • V1 (Not shown) Just up the steps from the Hand Traverse Wall, you'll find a small rock that somewhat resembles Half Dome. Start low and go straight up the middle. Many variations exist.

- -

EAST BAY • REMILLARD PARK

Remillard Park Remillard Park

Where

Remillard Park (also known as Pinnacle Rock) is tucked quietly in a posh North Berkeley Hills neighborhood. On most weekdays you can have the entire park and its cool welded tuff crags to yourself. The area has three summits, each offering fun bouldering and top roping on faces up to 45 feet high. This is a great area for beginners as it offers a couple of classic 5.6-5.8 top ropes. Remillard also has a great, old-school highball bouldering circuit.

From I-80 in Albany, take the Buchanan St exit and drive east. Buchanan will soon change to Marin Avenue. After about 2 miles you will reach the Marin Circle roundabout. Head steeply up Marin St for .6 of a mile and make a right tur n on Hilldale and then a slight left onto Poppy Lane. The rock will come into view on your right after .2 mile.

When to go You'll find good conditions throughout the year, rain notwithstanding.

Gear Long slings or a static rope are necessary for extending from the anchors (a bolt and a pole) over the lip of the climbs on the main rock. You'll need at least thirty feet to do it right. A few shoulder length slings will suffice for the other climbs.

Marin Avenue

Cragmont Park

Buchanan st

I I-80

Remillard Park

EAST BAY • REMILLARD PARK

Remillard Park Pinnacle Rock

***

1. Remillard Traverse • V4 Start on the far left end and traverse low across the west and north faces, including the Plague Wall.

***

2. The Diamond • V3 Climb straight up avoiding the crack and the arete. 3. The Chimney • VO ** Grunt up inside

or lieback the edge, or a combo of both. 4. Right Side • V3 *** The face just

right of the chimney. The chimney edge is off route. Many pads or top rope it. 5. The Scoop • 5.11a

*** (tr)

Go straight up through the scoop. 6. The Pocket Problem • 5.10d *** (tr) Get the pocket with your right hand, go to a small pinch and then back right. 7. The Bucket Prow • 5.6

*** (tr)

Top rope the line of steep jugs. Use long slings (30 ft.) on the pole and bolt on top.

***

8. The Roof • 5.9 (tr) Straight over -the roof. Same anchor as #7. 9. Aggro Monkey • 5.10 ** (tr) Undercling fo jugs. Same anchor as #7. 10. Plaque Face Left • V1 ** Climb over

the plague and up the arete.

11. Plaque Face Center • V4 R

***

Fun, very high problem or top rope up the center. There are two bolts on top. 12. Plaque Face Right • VO ** Up the

right arete.

****

13. Pinnacle Crack • 5.7 (tr) Top rope the slanting finger crack fr m bolts on the summit. Bring two 4-foot slings. 14. The Slab • 5.9 ** Top rope the slab

to the left of the crack. There are many variations. 15. The Gully • 5.2 * Easy chimney.

EAST BAY • CRAGMONT PARK

Cragmont Park Cragmont Park

Where

Another hidden little cliff tucked among old-money homes in the Berkeley Hills. Climbing here dates back to the 1930s when the small cliff was the site of break through belay techniques that became a cornerstone for many first ascents in Yosemite and the Sierra. Today, Cragmont is a great spot for 5.65.10 top roping on slabs and a few overhangs. There are a couple of leadable cracks and faces as well.

From I-80 in Albany, take the Buchanan st. exit (it will merge with Marin Ave). After the roundabout and fountain, continue steeply up Marin for .5 of a mile and make a right turn on Regal and drive a few blocks till you see the park on the right. A path on the parks' uphill border drops down to the cliff. In the shrubs on the opposite side of the park is a boulder with a 35-foot long traverse called Pile (V8 as well as a handful of worthy up problems.

When to go You'll find good conditions throughout the year, rain notwithstanding. It sometimes stays damp inside the cracks for a few days after a rain. A quiet approach to climbing here is appreciated by the residents in the nearby houses.

-To Buchanan St

•

** ),

Gear Shoulder-length slings for top roping and a small rack of cams and stoppers if you want to lead the cracks. 6 quickdraws to lead the face climbs.

Marin Avenue

Cragmont Park

I

I-80

Remillard Park

EAST BAY • CRAGMONT PARK

Cragmont Park Northeast Face

***

1. The Seam • 5.8 Top rope the tricky seam and face above, staying well left of the crack.

**

2. Cragmont Crack • 5.6 Top rope or leacf {gear to 3") the crack line. A good lead but take care to make bomber placements as the rock strength is iffy.

East Face 6. East Face • lOb ** Top rope the

face left of the overhang.

**

Top rope or lead the face (lOd-left, 12a-right).

7. Wipeout • lOd -12a

8. Farewell to Arms • lOb ***

Finding good rests will help you keep your arms. 4 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.

**

9. The Cave, Left Side • lla Start on Farewell to Arms and move right at the ledge and climb up left of the cave. 10. The Cave Route • lOa

**

Everything about this route is awkward; from rapping down to the anchors to set a top rope to the weird moves out the right side of the cave, to the bruising swing if you fall off.

***

3. The • 5.7 Top rope or lead {gear to 5 ') to the roof, and then jam and undercling rightward . 4. Senior • lOb

***

5. Corner • 5.5

* Needs gardening!

Top rope up the little seam using small footholds.

EAST BAY • GRIZZLY PEAK BOULDERS

Peak The Grizzly Peak Boulders

Where

This small cluster of boulders high in the hills of Berkeley offers a high concentration of cool problems. The rock is a type of welded tuff similar to the Boulders in the Eastern Sierra, loaded with pockets and edges.

On the left (east) side of Grizzly Peak Blvd, .33 mile up from the junction of Grizzly Peak Blvd and Centennial Drive, next to a small pullout with room for a couple of cars.

Approach Gear

The rocks are just above the road. Watch out for poison oak.

Pads, spotters.

When Year round.

\

Tilden Park

J

Golf Course Drive

The

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Grizzly Peak Boulders ' - - / \

-

Centennial Drive

Y"-'

Stadium

Centennial _ _ _ _ _ _ __ ,

R;m Woy/Drive

Piedmont Ave

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EAST BAY • GRIZZLY PEAK BOULDERS

Grizzly Peak Boulders

**

Main Boulder 1. Scary Overhang • V3 **** Climb up past the twin pockets and move left at the sloper ramp. Not so scary with pads and the big boulder moved back a few feet from its original position.

9. East Face • V2 Climb the pockets in the middle of the overhang and battle over the sloper lip.

2. Scary Overhang Direct • VS **** Climb up the sinker pockets and continue straight up. Sit start is V8 .

**

3.

Traverse • V7 Traverse from the right hand split finger crimp on the arete left into #2.

****

4. Scott's Arete • V7 Sit start in a deep pocket at the base of the arete and go up and slightly left. Stand start is VS. 5. Scott's Roof. V7

*** Start on the

slopers and move right past an undercling pocket and over the small roof.

Forest Boulders

***

Sit start. Up to a crimp from the low left pocket.

10. Tractor Pull • V7

**

11. Pull Out • VS Sit start and bail left to climb the arete to the top.

***

Start low on 12. Double Rose • V4 the left side and traverse right staying well below the lip till the end.

Main Boulder Backside 6. Backside Slab • VO - V1

**

The 18 foot tall face in back has a bunch of fun slab problems to warm up on .

Traverse Boulder 7. The Start • VO

**

Up crimps and pockets at the start of the traverse.

****

8. Grizzly Peak Traverse • V8 Start on some easy edges on the vertical face nearest the road and traverse below the lip from left to right around to the slabby side.

EAST BAY • MOUNT DIABLO

Mt Diablo Gear

Boy Scout Rocks and Pine Canyon Towering 3,849 feet above sea-level, Mount Diablo is the highest point in the East Bay Area. On clear winter days, you can see snow capped peaks of the Sierra to the east, and the distant Farralon islands to the west. Two areas, the wooded Boy Scout Rocks, and the remote and sunny Pine Canyon both offer tall leads and top ropes on 100-160ft. high sandstone flatirons. Locals relish the stretches of solid rock, but also learn to contend with the frequent sections of sandy or hollow holds.

A dozen quickdraws and two 10-foot slings (for extending anchors). use slings long enough to avoid further damage to the soft rock!

When to go Year round. Wait at least three days after a rain (the holds break when wet).

Where Boy Scout Rocks: In Danville, take the El Cerro Rd exit off 680 and follow it to Diablo Rd and then turn left to Mt Diablo Scenic Blvd and follow signs to the entrance kiosk. Park at the Rock City parking area a mile further. Pine Canyon: see the map on page 186.

Butt

Mt Diablo

Scenic Blvd.

1 mile to Rock City parking area Fee Station (10 bucks)

EAST BAY • MT DIABLO

Mt Diablo Boy Scout Rocks The 100-foot high faces found at the multi-tiered and deservedly popular Boy Scout Rocks are home to several of the Bay Areas best climbs. The overview map below can be used to locate the different sectors of the cliffs. The red dots indicate the approximate locations of bolted top rope anchors. Please note: when top roping at Diablo, two 10-foot lengths of webbing are often needed to prevent further erosion; if your rope is running in an existing groove or scraping the rock, you need longer slings! Don't be "that guy!".

Climbers grooves or redneck graffiti which is worse? Use long slings!!!

Butt Rock

Boy Scout Rocks

1. Crack a No Go • lld 2. Butt Face • 5.8

**

*

3. Pie Crust • 12a

* (tr) Bolts on top.

4. Chouinard Crack • 5.9+ 5. Beach Crack • 5.7 6. J"ungle Book • lla

**

**

*** 8. Amazing Face • 5.9+ ***** 9. Ozone • lOc ****

7. Diablo J"am • 5.7

Low trail to parking·

*

EAST BAY • MT DIABLO

Mt Diablo Boy Scout Rocks The Boy Scout Rocks are accessed via

a small trail that skirts the north edge of the cliff where it meets the road. The first area you encounter as you go downhill are the Upper and Middle Tiers.

The Upper Tier North Face faces downhill in the first cleft as you walk down about 150 feet below the road. Access top anchors by scrambling to the top from the road, or via a 3rd class ramp, 50 feet left of the Pebble Face. Always use the appropriate length slings to avoid further destruction of the rock when setting up your toprope!

***

(tr) Thought provoking moves on a steep slab.

2. Chouinard Crack. 5.9+

****

4") and then move right to a bolt about 35 feet up. 6 bolts + gear. Long slings for the anchor.

***

Upper Tier • North Face

1. Pebbly Face • lOd

3. The Climb Formerly Known As "Face" Start in the crack (gear to • lOc

** The

dreaded "5.9+" rating fits this awkward flaring crack perfectly. tr or gear to 5".

4. Devils Arete • lOb (tr) Start in the crack and climb it till it slabs out halfway up. Cut right onto a line of huecos and either join the previous routes finish, or continue up the crusty arete (S.lla). 5. A3 • 12+ (tr) Start 25 feet down from Chouinard$ Crack and locate a line of hard-to-see peg holds carved out from former aid ascents and try to climb up. This climb would be cool if it weren't so sandy.

*

(tr) The cruxes of this seldom climbed route are the faces before and after the striking flake. The flake itself is 5.8. 6. Pie Crust • 12a

Mt Diablo Middle Tier • South Face Easy summit access makes this 50ft. high wall a popular top rope spot. A trail skirts around the upper end of the wall and up an easy gully to the top. Be careful getting down to some of the anchors!

7. Jungle Book • lla

**

Some sandy holds detract from this otherwise cool tieback crack. Extend the tr anchors.

**

8. In the Buckets • llc (tr) Super cool moves on very sandy holds. 9. Two in One • lla

**

Easy 5.7 quickly turns to tricky 5.11 halfway up. Reachy.

10. Two for One • lOa I llb

**

(tr) Two fun, short routes for the price of one. The right angling mini-corner on the right side is the harder variation .

*

11. Beach Crack • 5.7 (tr) Climb the sandy corner crack. From the top of the crack, walk left to find some carved steps up to the anchors (use long slings to tr!).

The following three routes are on the west and south faces of the Middle Tier (not shown). 12. llc

Beard •

** (not shown)

The moss-covered face around the corner from In The Buckets has two old face climbs that are currently (2012) covered with moss.

13. Dark Wall • 12b

*

14. The Flake • lOa

*

(tr-not shown) At the bottom end of the West Face of the Middle Tier is this big, dark and mossy face with several old top rope routes. (Not shown) On the upper end of the West Face of the Middle Tier, find a Aake. Either side can be climbed .

EAST BAY • MT DIABLO

Mt Diablo Lower Tier. North Face The North Face of the Lower Tier is one of The Bay Areas best crags. A few of the climbs here offer superb sustained edging on sheer walls up to 100 feet tall. The gully up around the left end of the wall is the best way to the top anchors.

1. WTF Face • lld Climb past four bolts and then finish in the crack. Gear to 3". Not a very good climb.

***

(tr) Top rope 2 . Stegosaurus • lla the diagonal ramp into the crack, climb up the crack for a bit and then make some hard moves out right onto the face and finish at the anchor on the ledge.

***

(tr) 3. The Diagonal Crack • lOd This climb can be lead on gear, but the rock is 'soft and the placements can be sketchy. Top roping is weird, too - depending on which anchor you use you'll have a major swing potential on either the top or the bottom. Using the Dinosaur anchor and skipping the end of the crack and instead finishing to the right on the face is the best solution (about

lla).

****

4. Dinosaur • 12a PG/R You'll earn your Eagle Scout rank on this bold and difficult route. 7 bolts in 100 feet of sustained very thin edging. Take the sting out a little by stick-clipping the first bolt and bringing a wired stopper to cinch onto a hangerless old anchor bolt near the top (or go for it and risk a 40+ foot fall!). Can be top roped from the bolts, but the tree works better ( 40 feet of webbing needed to get past the hideous 8-inch deep grooves). 5. Right Arete • lld ** (tr) Tiny holds, dirty rock and a big swing to the left if you fall.

**

(tr) Use the 6. The Chimney • 5.7 bolts on the right wall at the the top.

*****

7. Amazing Face • 5.9+ A wellprotected, sustained climb with excellent rock and constant exposure. Please set your toprope with long (10+ feet) slings to avoid further damage to the rock.

Mt Diablo Lower Tier. North Face

*****

8. Bolt Route • llc Sustained thin edgin::J and plenty of bolts (it was originally an aid ladder) make this a fun line. The bottom 25 feet is the crux . Don't be the one who breaks the flexy left hand flake 15 feet up!

*

9. Dire Blow • lld PG Stick-clip the 1st bolt. Broken holds have made this harder and less fun; some of the bolts have become extremely hard (and scary) to clip. Better as a top rope.

**

10. Too Short • 10d A short but fun tieback feature that starts from a ledge 35 feet below the summit. Two bolts can be extended over the edge (5 feet of webbing, at least) for the top rope rig.

Lower Tier • Far Left

**

11. Phils 5.13 • 13b (tr) Somewhere on this face, under years of moss, is Phil Hellers 1980s edging testpiece. v

12. Ozone Direct • llb **** (tr) Climb straight up the face to the right of the arch to join the upper half of the Ozone crack. 13. Ozone • 10c **** An excellent and varied crack climb that is usually top roped. The climb has been led, but gear is hard on the soft rock, and the soft rock will be hard on your bones if you blow it. Use long slings to extend over the edge from the anchor bolts on top.

Lower Tier • West Face The gully up around the left end of the wall is the best way to the top anchors. Or climb 5.6-ish moves up around the tree to gain the gully on the right side.

***

14. Diablo Jam • 5.7 Nice jamming leads to a sandy face encounter. Top rope from the lowest anchor bolts. Can be led, but not if you plan on falling a lot.

***

15. Cracker Ass Cracker • llb (tr) Stay right of the crack for full value slab climbing.

EAST BAY • MT DIABLO

Mt Diablo Butt Rock • East Face

Butt Rock • West Face

Butt Rock stands alone 200 feet to the west of the main Boy Scout Rocks group. Its east face offers several fun and slippery slab top rope routes that are great for learning to trust your feet. Access to the top is via the Dingleberry Crack, just to the right of the slab (the "left cheek" of the "butt").

There are a few routes on the West Face of Butt Rock. The rock quality is poor, but some fun can be had nonetheless.

*

1. East Buttress • 5.8 Start on the left side and climb straight up. Bring 40 feet of webbing to set up a top rope by slinging a boulder on top.

**

2. Left Cheek Center • 5.8 R/X (tr) Start about 15 feet left of the crack and climb straight up. This climb, a dangerous lead, has only a single old bolt about halfway up. Best as a top rope. Bring 40 feet of webbing to set up a top rope by slinging a boulder on top.

*

3. In the Butt • 5.2 (tr) The low-angle chimney up the center of Butt Rock is the easiest route to the summit, and can be lead by slinging the chockstone and placing large cams. It is also sometimes free-soloed.

*

4. West Buttress • lOd (tr) Make some hard moves up a steep section down low and then climb lower-angle rock to the summit.

**

5. In The Butt • 5.7 (tr) A nice, tight chimney for learning basic squeeze technique.

**

5. Crack-A-No-Go • lld (tr) This very sandy lesson in flaring funkyness is quite fun once you embrace the chossyness and decide to fight.

*

6. Hole Patrol • 5.7 (tr - not shown) A few steps uphill from Crack-A-No-Go find a blunt arete with many carved-out ,.... huecos.

EAST BAY • MOUNT DIABLO

Pine Can_yon Pine Canyon

Where

The chossy spires of Mt. Diablos Pine Canyon provide the Bay Area with its most adventuresome climbing. Impressive soft sandstone flatirons (some 160 feet tall!) pepper a lonely landscape shared with eagles, wild hogs, skunks, rattlesnakes and even an occasional mountain lion.

From hwy 580 in Walnut Creek, take Ygnacio Valley Rd, past Walnut Blvd. (don't blow it by turning here!) and continue for another 1.4 miles to Walnut Ave. Turn right and go 1.6 miles and veer right onto Castle Rock Rd . Follow this for about a mile to Castle Rock Regional Park.

Approach

Gear 12 quickdraws, cams to 4", Be aware that cams may not hold a fall due to the soft, sandy rock.

When to go Fall, winter and spring. Summer is very hot. Wait at least 3 days for the rock to dry after a rain or you will break off all the holds!

Continue on foot on the main road I trail that heads down the canyon. After about 10 minutes the crags will come into view on the left. There are three trails that head up to the various crags - check the map on the next page for their locations.

Oak Grove Rd .

Northgate Road Castle Rock Rd.

Walnut Blvd . (not the way!)

Walnut

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Mt. Diablo State Park

Castle Rock Regional Park

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EAST BAY • MOUNT DIABLO

Pine Canyon - locator map

***

5. Rock of Ages (25 min .) The best rock in the park, don't miss the two-pitch classic "Cave Route".

The Pine Canyon Crags are located on a steep hillside above the main Castle Rock Regional Park trail I fire road, a little more than a half mile from the parking lot. Three trails are used to access the crags - stick to them carefully as offtrail erosion is a problem here, not to mention you will likely get poison oak if you stray into the shrubbery. Below are short descriptions of the major crags.

1. Deliverance Rock

6. Pagoda Rock

*** (23 min.)

The second best rock in the park, boasting three worthwhile routes.

7. Mammoth Rock (25 min.) Impressive but almost hopelessly chossy. Closed for Raptor nesting Feb. 1 - July 15.

*** (35 min.)

No crowds, ever. This north-facing rock can be tricky to find the first time.

8. Barney Rubble (25 min.)

*

2. Castle Wall (20 min.) Home of the airy Castle Ridge Traverse.

Another soft sandy face.

9. Flintstone Rock

**

3. Castle Rock (30 min.) The parks namesake has a few worthwhile top rope problems.

** (30 min.)

Home of the route Yabba Dabba Dudes, a nice bolted face with decent r ock.

*

10. The Pulpit (21 min.) Has one route, a worthy 5.6 bolted face that ends with a protectable crack.

*

4. The Teeth (35 min.) A few chossy cracks and faces can be lead or top roped, either way its an adventure.

COor:::J

The Teeth Deliverance Rock2:2; · · · · ·

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trail marker "10"

... ....

EAST BAY • MOUNT DIABLO

Rock of Ages

Pagoda Rock

**

1. Blue Zenith • lOa CHF: 5 Bring long slings to minimize rope drag.

**

2. Dry December • 5.9 CHF: 8 Two pitches: great setting, big face, fragile holds. Rappel off the back (60ft).

***

3. The Pillar • 5.8 CHF: 3 Climb good rock past three bolts to a bolted belay at the base of a huge, detached pillar and wonder "what in the heck is holding this thing on?" Pitch two climbs the crack (gear to 3") and then a chossy bolted face to the summit.

**

4. The Unsung War • lOb CHF : 7 A Chad Suchoski adventure route up the deep dark chimney on the right edge of the Pagoda. A single bolt and maybe some gear protect the 1st pitch chimney. Pitch 2 climbs up a steep, hidden handcrack.

**

5. Red Face • 5.7 (tr) CHF: 5 Finding the top rope bolts can be tricky.

****

6. The Cave Route • 5.8 CHF: 3 A great climb that can be done in one or two pitches. Follow bolts up to the cave and belay (big cams) or continue to the top via a tunnel through the back of the cave. 7. Evolution • lOc *** CHF: 7 Pitch 1: 6 bolts to a bolted belay in a cave. Pitch 2: Take the left line past 11 bolts.

**

8. West Face Route • 5.8 R CHF : 7 Pitch 1: 6 bolts to a bolted belay in a cave. Pitch 2: Take the right line past 6 bolts.

**

9. Choss Warrior • 5.11b (tr) CHF: 9 Top rope the fall line, pulling delicately on holds that are quite likely to break.

EAST BAY • MOUNT DIABLO

Pine Canyon - other routes Most of the climbing in Pine Canyon exists on two major formations, Pagoda Rock and The Rock of Ages, which are covered on the previous pages. The rest of the routes are scattered about on the surrounding rocks, and are covered here.

***

1. Castle Ridge • 5.5 R CHF: 4 A short bit of technical climbing at the toe of the rock leads to an exciting hike along the spine of the 500 foot ridge. This is a decent and adventurous way to approach the other rocks.

**

2. Squeal Like a Pig • llc PG CHF: 4 A great, technical route that unfortunately becomes mossy with disuse. 5 bolts. Bring a brush.

****

3. Deliverance • 12a/b CHF: 1 This slightly overhanging shield has excellent rock and cool moves on slopers and pockets. 8 bolts + 3 bolt anchor. Deliverance Rock can be pretty hard to find and you have to be wary of poison oak on the approach - its worth the effort, one of the best 12s in the Bay.

*

4. Root Canal • 12b CHF: 6 Some holds have broken, rendering some of the clips desperate, better as a top rope, but its also a scary scramble up to the top.

**

5. Periodontal Fracture • lOc PG A sandy splitter crack. Gear: .75-2".

***

6. Castle Rock Arete • 5.6 X CHF: 3 If you can scramble up to the top of Castle rock (5.2, carved steps) you can top rope this. Leading it requires gear to 1.5" and is unprotected at the crux.

*

7. Summit Route • 5.2 CHF: 5 A scary scramble up carved steps is the easiest way up.

***

8. Yabba Dabba Dudes • 5.9 PG A nice face with cool features. Stickclip or climb boldly to the high 1st bolt. 7 bolts to a nice new chain anchor. A crosses new route, Oona Kuma • lOb Yabba Dabba Dudes down low and finishes on the right line of 7 glue-in bolts. This new start, though harder, provides a less runout variation to the start of Yabba Dabba Dudes.

**·

**

9. The Quarry • lOd CHF: 8 A newly-bolted face hugs the arch and heads up the face left of Yabba. 9 bolts to a chain anchor. Bring some long slings to reduce rope drag.

***

10. Prelude • 5.6 CHF: 5 Six bolts, gear to 2" for the crack at the top. Top rope by scrambling up the back. 11. The Pillar • 5.8

***

Pine Canyon - other routes 12. Evolution • lOc Previous page.

***

14. Dingleberry Crack • 5.9

* CHF: 6

Start up a groove to a wide crack with decent pro in the left crack. Gear to 3".

13. Peregrine • 5.10 R CHF: 8

Three adventurous pitches with bolts and gear on the lower far left side of Mammoth Rock. Pitch 1: Three bolts leading to an arete, move left past a bolt and belay in a cave (body belay!!) Pitch 2: climb a short chimney to the top of the pillar and belay from a tree. Pitch 3: Past 5 bolts and slinB a horn as a belay. Gear to 2". Closed from Feb. 1 - J"uly

15. Right Cheek • lOb PG

** CHF: 8

A nice face with poor rock and a hard, slabby start. 8 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.

15 for nesting.

The Teeth

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trail marker "10"

SOUTH BAY • CASTLE ROCK

Castle Rock Castle Rock State Park

Driving directions

The sandstone blobs at Castle Rock are inevitably (and often) compared to Fontainebleau, the French bouldering area some say is the finest in the world. Indeed the stone and climbing styles are similar, especially if you can ignore the occasional sandy patch at Castle. Castle Rock is no doubt the Bay Areas' premier bouldering spot - you'll encounter bizarre, highly technical moves on slopers and pockets that while frustratingly hard are all the more satisfying once mastered. As a bonus you'll find the same quirky attributes on the scores of fun, miniature sport routes that lie hidden in the dark forest chambers throughout the park.

From the intersection of Saratoga Rd. and Ca. Hwy 9 (Big Basin rd .), head west into the hills for about seven miles to the intersection with hwy 35 (Skyline Blvd.) and turn left. After 2.6 miles you'll see the pay parking for Castle Rock State Park (CRSP) on the right. If parking is available (get there early on weekends!) on either side of the road outside of the lot, grab a spot for free. Remember that CRSP closes when the sun goes down and rangers will gleefully ticket your car if you are a minute late.

When to go Winter, Spring and Fall provide the best grip conditions, while Summer can be sweaty and buggy. Don't climb or boulder when the rocks are wet or damp! The holds are fragile when wet.

I

Saratoga rd .

Saratoga ave.

Saratoga

Sandborn-Skyline County Park

Jose

SOUTH BAY • CASTLE ROCK

Castle Rock Crags and Boulders - locator map. The Castle Rock crags and boulders in a deep forest of oak, are well and pine. The map on the facing page IS drawn carefully to scale, but you st1ll may have trouble trying to find the rock.s. More specific trail info is given in the Introductory section of each individual crag and boulder - read them carefully. Approach times are listed in parentheses for each area .

*

10. The Platypus (14 min.) This rock has a remote feel and a few short but fun sport climbs. Approach 14 minutes. 11. Shady Rock

** (15 min .)

Another remote rock with several fun bolted routes. Approach 15 minutes.

12. Underworld Rock

**

1. Lime Disease Rock (10 min.) No crowds and a few fun routes.

****

2. Lost Keys Boulder (6-7 min.) Home of the fantastic "Lost Keys Traverse"

****

3. Indian Rock (3 min.) Many fun, short leads and some good boulder problems, too.

**

4 . Nature Nazi Boulders (3 min.) A couple of classic problems make these boulders worth a visit.

****

5. Parking Lot Boulder (3 min.) A legendary boulder with a handful of classic problems. Approach: use the shortcut trail that branches to the right, 75 feet from the parking lot).

**

6. Castle Rock (5 min .) The parks namesake has a few worthwhile top rope problems.

****

7. The Magoos (5 min.) The Magoos and the boulders around and below. Castle Rock offer the highest concentration of boulder problems in the area .

**

8. Chew Tooth (13 min.) A couple of short, hard routes are found on this small that is an important landmark for finding the other crags in the area.

***

9. California Ridge (14 min.) The sunny "Cal Ridge" has views and a few excellent bolted faces and roofs that can be either top roped or lead.

*** (20 min.)

Found at the bottom of a deep and shaded ravine, this quiet rock has a handful of nice sport routes in the 5.10 range. Approach : 20 minutes.

13. The Muffins

* (25 min.)

The bolted routes on these rocks are only slightly higher than the boulder problems but are fun nonetheless ..

14. Waterfall Cliff

**** (25 min.)

The walls around the 50 ft. high Kings Creek Waterfall offer several routes that shouldn't be missed, from lOa to 12a.

15 . Last Temptation Cliff

** (25 min.)

This south facing crag is a great spot to work on . your winter tan while climbing a few n1ce sport routes with sustained moves in the 5.10 range.

16. Billy Goat Rock

** (25 min.)

Bring some .slings for setting top ropes, and some qu1ckdraws for the one leadable climb. .

***

17. Goat Rock (20 min.) Goat Rock has sweeping views toward the Pacific, a big 5.10 roof and juggy 5.5 top ropes. Use the road and service road approach . 18. Klinghoffer Boulders

*** (20 min.)

Great bouldering, in a remote setting that be a li!tle tricky to find . Approach: 20 m1nutes us1ng the service road .

Lime r-t • Disease 'J • Rock ••

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Indian Rock

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SOUTH BAY • CASTLE ROCK

Castle Rock Castle Rock

Approach

Castle Rock State Parks namesake rock has a long tradition of roped climbing. Ironically it is far from the best rock to climb on, but does host a few worthy lines, notably the giant roof of Aeronautical Engineer and the short, hard crack, Farewell to Arms.

From the south end of the Castle Rock pay parking lot, pick up the Castle Rock Trail. After fifty feet or so, a shortcut branches to the right, passing Parking Lot Rock before heading up a steep hill to Castle Rock. The approach takes about five minutes.

When to go Winter, Spring and Fall provide the best grip conditions, while Summer can be sweaty and buggy.

Gear Long slings (10-15 feet) for setting up top ropes from a pole or bolts on top of the rock.

'

/.

. -' - - shortcut trail I ,

' I

0'-, Saratoga Gap Trail

Parking Lot Rock

Castle Rock , Trail

South Face ·1. Access Route • 5.6 If you can lead or solo this without killing yourself, you can access the anchors on top and top rope t he following climbs:

*

2. Standard Route • 5.9 (tr) Bring long slings to top rope this climb.

*

3. The Chimney • 5.8 (tr) Grovel up the short chimney and face above. Use long slings on the bolts on top.

North Face

**

4. Chockstone • 5.9 (tr- not shown on topo) This is the crack/groove just to the right of the big cave. A single bolt and some gear (or creative use of long slings) are used for the top anchor.

**

5. Engineer • llc (tr) Climb the steep arete out the left side of the cave. There are 2 bolts on top.

**

6. Farewell to Arms • lOd (tr) Climb the awkward crack and then find your way through overhangs to the top. Use longs slings on the top rope bolts.

SOUTH BAY • INDIAN ROCK

Indian Rock Indian Rock

When to go

Indian Rock is one of the premier crags at CRSP. No, its not the Red River Gorge by any stretch, but there are half a dozen worthy routes, a few of which are classic. Combined with the fine bouldering in the area, this is a must visit spot for bay-areans.

Year-round, Spring and Fall being the best times,

Approach From the free parking area, (across the road and uphill about 150 yards from the main CRSP parking lot) find and follow the obvious trail (straight through the gate the trail that turns left or right is the Skyline Trail) for about 4 minutes, winding through boulders, down to Indian Rock.

Gear 8 quickdraws and a few longer slings for the set-back anchors on top. A 4" cam is needed if you're going to lead Krokus.

Indian Rock

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Nature Nazi Boulders

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Lost Keys Boulder

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2.6 miles to hwy. 35/9 junction

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Castle Rock

parking

SOUTH BAY • INDIAN ROCK

Indian Rock - South Face The South Face of Indian Rock is the side

you will see first as you come down the trail to the rock. The leads are reasonably protected but can also be top roped if you are willing to scramble up (5.0) the left side to reach the anchors along the ridge.

1. Jail Bird • 5.12a

**

Short, bouldery and hard.

2. South Face. 5.8+

***

A great route for learning the basics of thin slab climbing - the holds are tiny.

***

3. Puckered Starfish • lOa Another clean slab with somewhat desperate climbing on small features.

4. Donkey Dong • lld

****

Castle Rocks best sport climb - steep, fun climbing on big holds leads to a powerful lunge riear the top. If this were a little longer it would get five stars. Two shoulder-length are needed for the anchor. You cant lower off the anchor, so you'll have to figure out another way down (scramble off the opposite side or rappel from the South Face Route anchor.

Indian Rock - North Face

****

5. Vicious Circles • 10d Short, but with brilliant climbing on sloping scoops, be careful getting to the 1st bolt.

***

6. Blowing Bubbles • 5.9 PG The first bolt is high and the run-out to the anchor is long {but easy). You can easily walk to the top anchor to set a top rope.

***

7. Krokus • 12a PG The moves to the ledge above the first bolt are scary. At the ledge, find a spot for a four-inch cam and then climb the desperate arete past two more bolts.

**

9. Dismal Abysmal • llc Climb the honeycombed, overhanging prow feature on the right edge of the cave.

**

10. Hocus • llb R Bold steep slab climbing above the anchors of Krokus. Can be linked with Krokus.

**

11. Strip Poker • 12a (not shown) . A bolted lip traverse 50 feet right of Krokus.

The Globule (not shown). A few steps from the bottom right (north) side of Indian Rock, find this 50ft. high rock and the following route:

***

10. Baby Fat • lla (not shown). Fun! Stick-clip the 1st bolt and pull the overhang. Use two 2ft. long slings on the anchors for tr. Walk-off. 3 bolts.

SOUTH BAY • LIME DISEASE ROCK

Lime Disease Rock Lime Disease Rock

Approach

Perhaps this small crags greatest attraction is its satellite location along the Skyline Trail, a ten to fifteen minute walk from the Indian Rock parking area. The hike and a few fun sport routes make it a quiet and worthy destination for a half day of climbing.

From the Indian Rock free parking area find the Skyline Trail on the other side of the fence and follow it south (right turn). After 10-15 minutes, keep an eye out for a rock on your left, just below the trail: it won't look like much until you drop down around to the bottom.

When to go

Gear

Year-round; though it gets pretty hot in the summer, there is always a shaded climb or two.

Quickdraws (8) and long slings for top roping.

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Lime Disease Rock Lime Disease Rock has three fun routes and several ho-hum ones. Don't miss "Ticks Ripped My Flesh", a S.lOb arete.

*

1. Vixen • 5.8 Climb the crack system, passing a small roof and a bolt along the way. Pro to

2.5"

*

2. Cosgrove Face • 12a Tall, strong and skilled, Scott Cosgrove established many desperately hard and thin climbs around Castle Rock in the early 80s.

**

3. Pigs Feat • lOa Grunt up a low, wide right facing corner and then climb the face, staying to the left of the arete.

***

4. Ticks Ripped My Flesh • lOc Climb the steep, juggy arete on good but far-apart holds. Quite fun, but at times disconcertingly close to the tree.

*

5. Unlucky in Love • llb Contrived but kinda fun anyway.

**

6. Lucky in Love • llb Very cool moves passing the second bolt. Short but sustained! 7. Bitch Goddess Left • 12a (tr) Stay to the left to make this .12a. 8. Bitch Goddess • lOa (tr) Stay to the right to keep it .lOa.

SOUTH BAY • CASTLE ROCK FALLS

Castle Rock Falls Castle Rock Falls

Approach

The big grey slab to the right of the Kings Creek waterfall is one of the parks tallest walls. A spicy old-school slab can be led or top roped (by anchoring the base of the observation platform that hangs above). A dozen other bolted and trad leads are found on the uphill side of the falls.

From the parking lot hike down the well-groomed trail and follow it for 15 minutes to an observation platform above the falls. From the platform, retrace your steps about 75 feet and look for a small trail on the right leading steeply down into the canyon and back up the other side. Follow this trail up through the large boulders known as The Muffins, and back down around to the base of the cliff. The first route encountered wil l be The Layback, a nice 5.6 corner.

When to go Year round. Nice shade in summer.

Gear Castle Rock Parking Lot

A rack of quickdraws (10}, a few long slings, and some finger to hand sized gear if you want to lead the cracks.

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Waterfall Cliff

SOUTH BAY • CASTLE ROCK FALLS

The Muffins After crossing the creek and walking up a steep hill, The Lower Muffin will come into view on your left. The Mid Muffin is just uphill. These short climbs and boulder problems are a good alternative if the main cliff is too crowded. Continuing on the trail will bring you down and around to the Waterfall Wall. Lower Muffin

*

1. Corn Muffin • lOd Climb the slab left of the chimney past 2 bolts. You may also scramble to the top to set a top rope.

**

2. Burnt Muffin • llb Climb the reachy slab past two bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. Scramble up the back to set up a top rope. 3. Jelly Roll • lOd (not shown) Moss may have taken this 3-bolt slab back. Starts f r om a boulder (stick clip the 1st bolt) 20 feet right of Burnt Muffin.

Ridge Trai l (to Goat Rock) Sara toga Gap Trail The Falls Wall

- 2 minutes -

Sara t oga Gap Tr ail (12 minutes • t o parking) ,

Greebo -

Cl amydia-

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f

• • • • The Lieback

The Muffins - continued

***

4. Muffin Monster • V7 R Top rope the seam from bolts on top or boulder it with lots of pads and spotters.

** 6. Liars Dice • lld ** TR the 7. Body Cast • lld ** TR the face. 8. Muff Diver • 10c ** A 2-bolt lead with a mossy crux. 9. Gym Rat • V5 *** The arete. There are a few other problems on this boulder. 5. Devil Baby • V5 Traverse the wall from r ight to left. Mantle fin ish.

Waterfall Boulders

**

10. Pocket Change • V 4 Walk down into fhe labyrinth of rocks above The Waterfall Wall to find this traverse near the Clamydia anchors. Traverse right to left and finish up the mossy squeeze chimney! < Photo on left.

**

11. Pocket Problem • V4 (not shown). Climb a short, pocketed wall near the Greeboo anchors. (pg 215).

**

12. Sticky Green • V6 Traverse left on the lip after doing the Pocket Problem.

SOUTH BAY • CASTLE ROCK FALLS

Castle Rock Falls The first climb you will see upon arriving at the cliff is the clean dihedral called The Lieback. Many of the top anchors are not eguipped for lowering - you can clip the anchors with a couple shoulder-length slings and lower off, just remember to retrieve your slings+biners on the hike out. Top ropes are also easy to set on almost all the climbs.

1. Leading to Death • 5.9

**

Climb up to the bolt · and then into a crack (gear to 2") then 2 more bolts to the anchor.

***

Climb the slab 2. Putrefaction • llb past 3 bolts to a V3 boulder problem at the 4th bolt. 2 bolts on top .

***

Protect the 3. The Lieback • 5.6 clean corner with a double set of cams .75" to 3", or fin ish on Degeneration (recommended!) .

***

The 4. Degeneration • lOa recommended 2-bolt face finish to The Lieback.

**

A hard move 5. Convulsions • llb passing the 1st bolt gives way to easy climbing. Bring gear to 2" and I or a sling to wrap a thread between the 3rd and 4th bolts. At the 4th bolt, traverse right to the last bolt on "Leading to Death". Chain anchor. 6. POS Crack • lOc

* Gear to 3.5".

Castle Rock Falls - continued

** 3 bolts. Powerful 8. Clamydia • 12a ***** Stick-clip the st bolt. Thin face to a hard move to the 7. Cleotitus • 12b

"Clam". 6 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.

*** 6 bolts to

9. Above the Law ·lld PG a 2-bolt anchor. Top rope-able.

*** Gear to 4". 11 . Anti-Christ • lld *** Stick-clip the 1st

10. Clean Corner • 5.8

bolt. Contrived (but fantastic!) bouldering crux at 2nd bolt. The direct start (not shown) is 5.12 (may be dirty).

*** Gear to 3". 13. Greeboo ·lOa *** Optional 3" cam between bolts 1 + 2. Variation: climb to the

12. Charlie Solo • 5.7

left of bolts 2 and 3 and the grade is .llb.

** Mossy 5-bolt slab. 15. The Falls • lOa PG *** (not shown) On 14. The Oracle • llb

the other side of the waterfall is a clean 100ft. slab. The bolts are old and spaced far apart - Tri-Cams might help. The direct start is 5.11 (stick-clip!). Rappel from the observation deck supports to top rope it.

CASTLE ROCK • GOAT ROCK AREA

Last Temptation + Goat Rock Last Temptation Cliff and Billy Goat Rock

When to go Last Temptation receives sweet winter sun and goes into the shade mid afternoon during t he summer. Billy Goat Rock is mostly shady and good year round .

These two medium-size outcrops are found along the trail on the way to Goat Rock. Both rocks offer a few cool leads and top ropes in the 5.10c to S.lla range.

Approach Gear

From the parking lot, take the Saratoga Gap Trail for 10-12 minutes till it crosses a bridge at the junction with the Ridge Trail. Take the Ridge trail (right fork) for 2-3 minutes until you see the cliff up to your right. Billy Goat Rock is also alongside the trail, 3-4 minutes further.

Quickdraws (6), slings+ gear to 4".

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Last Temptation Last Temptation is found on the Ridge Trail

a few hundred yards up from the junction with the Saratoga Gap Trail.

*

(not shown) The left fork of the trail leads to a few top rope routes and this burly 3-bolt lead that passes a roof near the top. Pro: 3/4"+ 3.5".

1. Lobotomy • lld

**

2. Death and Taxes • lOb (tr) Easy start to a burly roof. A trail on the left side of the cliff accesses the tr. bolts. 3. Chimps in a Negligee. 5.9

*

An unprotected start leads to an easy crack with gear (1" -2") and then a face with 3 bolts.

*

A five-bolt lead that has some scary parts. Easy to top rope from Chimps' anchor.

4. Charlie$ Angel • llb R

5. Go Thee I Know Not Wither • lOc

**

Start up the crack till you can clip the 1st bolt and then move onto the face a little higher. Bring a 2" or 3" cam for the top.

**

(tr) Hard, thin moves into a fun arete. Top rope from Monkey Brains anchor. 6. Arete • 12a

***

Short but sweet seam. 5 bolts + 2-bolt anchor.

7. Live Monkey Brains • lla

Billy Goat Rock Billy Goat Rock is found on the Ridge Trail a few minutes further up the trail from Last Temptation Cliff. The climbs here are mostly top ropes and boulder problems. An easy scramble up the gulley allows access to a slightly scary ridge traverse to reach the top rope anchors.

***

1. Bridwell Bolt Route • llc (tr) This nice route used to have bolts, but someone chopped them for some reason.

***

2. Permanent Erection • llb (tr) An intrusion of darker rock at the base is the routes namesake. Chopped bolts.

***

3. Cummed On • llc Bouldery moves past the first two bolts. 4 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.

****

4. Way Dubious Contortionist • VS Start on the upper undercling. Starting on the lower undercling is V7. Photo

****

5. Technical Contortionist • VB Traverse the undercling and finish on Projectile Vomit..

***

6. Projectile Vomit • V3 Low start up the arete and slopers.

CASTLE ROCK • GOAT ROCK AREA

Goat Rock Goat Rock

Gear

Expansive views of the setting sun as it dips in the distance beyond ridge upon ridge of quiet blue-green wilderness are what brings the average visitor to Goat Rock, an 80 ft. high knob of quality sandstone in the outer reaches of CRSP. Climbers enjoy the added bonus of steep, jugriddled faces and airy roof problems. Although some of the climbs can be lead, Goat Rock is primarily a top rope area.

Long slings (up to 30 feet for some of the climbs) are needed, though a couple of shoulder length runners will suffice for the majority of the top-anchors.

When to go Year-round. Hot in the summer.

Approach There are two ways to reach Goat Rock. The scenic r oute takes about 25 minutes: follow the Saratoga Gap trail for about 0.7 mile and take the r ight fork onto the Ridge Trail for another 0.5 mile, passing The Last Temptation and Billy Goat rocks along the way. It is a little faster (20 minutes) to walk north on hwy. 35 for about 0.5 mile to a maintenance gravel road that leads to an interpretive shelter where a footpath leads shortly to Goat Rock.

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CASTLE ROCK • GOAT ROCK AREA

Goat Rock - South Face

Bowling Bawl Boulders

The 80ft. tall South Face of Goat Rock is top roping heaven. The summit is easy to access and has bolted anchors that can be rigged with a few long (10' -15') slings.

1. Dragons Breath • lld

10. Planet Caravan • V8

** ***

Rig your top rope to hang left of the roof.

3. The Great Roof • 10c

****

Climb up to and over the big roof to a jug at the lip. Spectacular position!

4. Center Overhang Left • llb

**

Branch left from #6 at the roof.

5. Center Overhang • 5.9

** ***

Straight-up the wall of amazing huecos.

7. Swiss Cheese Right • 5.7

***

Stay 15 feet or so to the right of #7.

8. South Arete. 5.8

*

11. Easy-0 • V1 Pull up and over a couple of horizontal cracks. 12. Bowling Bawl • V1

****

Low start in a slanting crack and pocket to a big move and cool pockets over a bulge.

13. Bowling Bawl Traverse • V2

Turn the roof near its right end .

6. Swiss Cheese Direct • 5.5

***

This amazing problem would be even better if it wasn't so squeezed by a neighboring boulder. Sit start on a good right hand edge and small left hand.

A traverse on sloping huecos.

2. Triple Overhang • 5.9

Two excellent problems are found on the bulbous boulders near the summit of Goat Rock.

**

Sling a big lump for the top rope anchor.

**

Traverse right to left, staying below the lip as long as you can.

14. Goat Rock Traverse • V4

**

Traverse the base of Goat Rock, either way, for a hundred foot workout (not shown).

15. Kamikaze Arete • V3 R

***

Find this old-school, highball arete on a big boulder in the woods 80 feet west {downhill) from the South Face of Goat Rock (not shown).

CASTLE ROCK • UNDERWORLD AREA

The Chew Tooth The Chew Tooth

When to go

This little cliff has a few fun and very short (30') routes worth doing on the way back from some of the other nearby rocks. The Chew Tooth is an important landmark for finding other rocks in the vicinity (check the map below).

The Chew Tooth is almost always fully shaded and is good year round.

Approach From the main parking lot, take either the Castle Rock Trail or The Saratoga Gap Trail (easier) and follow the map below to the trail junctions to the Chew Tooth (pictured to the right). The bottom photo shows the junction to The Underworld crag. From above, The Chew Tooth is a non-descript mossy lump; hike down to the front for a positive ID. a 12 -15 minute hike.

Gear A rack of quickdraws (5) and a small rack of gear to 3" will suffice for the climbs here.

Its

\ Steep, shady canyon Saratoga Gap trail

Shady O Rock

Underworld Rock

V Platypus

California Ridge

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The Chew Tooth - approach

The Chew Tooth

The trails to the Chew Tooth, The Underworld, Cal Ridge, Shady Rock and The Platypus are unmarked and a little tricky the first time. Reference the photos below with the map on the left and you should get there without too many problems. The first photo guides the way from The Castle Rock Trail to the unmarked trail leading to t he Chew Tooth (about 250 yards further). The second photo shows the 1st trail to the Underworld (about 100 yards before reaching the Chew Tooth). The hike to the Chew Tooth should take between 12 and 15 ml'nutes.

1. Chew Tooth - Left • llb A fun boulder problem past two bolts.

**

***

2. Chew Tooth - Center • 12a A hard dyno or a tricky mantle. Short but sweet.

**

3. Chew Tooth Crack • 5.9 Squirm up the crack and climb the face above past a bolt.

**

3. Uncle Fred$ Vacation Plan • lOa (not shown) On the face to the right of the Chew Tooth Crack, climb a mossy slab past three bolts total. Not bad when its clean (which is seldom!).

CASTLE ROCK • UNDERWORLD AREA

pus +

The

Rock The Platypus + Shady Rock

Where

These two 40ft. high crags are hidden in a dark hilltop forest. Most of the climbs feature bouldery starts followed by juggy romps to small summits. a different style of climbing and can be quite fun when fully embraced. A strong climber might be able to tick all 14 routes at these two crags in a day.

From The Chew Tooth (pg. 224 ), find a trail that heads uphill and follow it for about two minutes to the Platypus, or another minute to Shady Rock. The total approach will take about 15-20 minutes from the lot.

Its

Gear Six quickdraws and two 2ft. slings (for extending anchors). Tip: if you plan on doing several routes, don't bother cleaning your top slings every time they can be easily reached and moved from the top of all of the climbs.

When to go Year-round: a little chilly in winter, a little hot during summer.

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Underworld Rock

Saratoga Gap trail

Shady O Rock

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Tall Man Simplex • lOc -;-., A few reachy moves over a roof and a wild foot swing up and out definitely might be easier for taller climbers. A bolt at waist level protects the action. Brian Adam climbing.

CASTLE ROCK • UNDERWORLD AREA

The Platypus The Platypus is found on a quiet and

shaded hilltop about 100 yards uphill from the Chew Tooth. The climbs here are just less than vertical and offer lots of frictiony laybacking and face climbing. Bring a few shoulder length slings for the anchors which are set back a foot or so from the lip. The summit area is so tiny that you can leave your anchor slings for lowering, and simply reach over and move them when you top your next route.

**

1. Howling Iguana • lOa (tr) Frictiony start to better holds up high.

2. Moss Man • lOa

**

Baloney moves past a seam at the start lead to a waverly line through buckets and small caves higher up.

3. Plat-a-pussy • lOb

**

Bouldery moves up to the first bolt (stick clip is nice) into a groove and caves to the top.

4. Embryo • llc

*

Wild moves up an arete, into a bombay chimney and over a roof.

5. Jelly Fish • lld

**

Hard moves and harder clips are found in the first 25 feet of this tenuous seam. Can be top roped after climbing AI Hussein.

6. AI Hussein • lOd

**

Very fun moves climbing in from the left as opposed to maybe harder moves straight up at the start. A big runout between the 2nd and 3rd clips is exasperated by some chossy rock; placing a few medium cams makes it safer.

7. Platypus Traverse • V4

**

Start near the base of Plat-a-Pussy and traverse the entire rock in either direction.

8. Rat-a-pus • lOa

**

Climb the steep, juggy, bolted face on the back (south) face past 3 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. (not shown).

Shady Rock Shady Rock is a stones throw through the woods from The Platypus. :Juggy huecos and a few roofs characterize the climbing here. Bring a few shoulder length slings for the anchors which are set back a foot or so from the lip. Some of the routes share an anchor with routes on the opposite side, so be courteous and safe when other parties are utilizing the anchor.

9. Cotton Mouth • lOa

*

10. Tall Man Simplex • lOc

***

Traverse the undercling rail to the high first clip (stick- clip is nice) and bust a long move to the hueco. Harder if you're sub 5'10".

***

Bouldery moves past the first two bolts. Because the second bolt is heinous to clip, this route is more fun as a top rope.

12. Bad Influence • llb

**

14. Dog Breath • lOa

**

Climb the fun line of huecos in the middle of the wall.

15. Special Effects • lOb

**

Tricky moves are found near the start and end of th is clean face climb.

Hard 1st clip and then jugs to top.

11 . Herpes Simplex • llc

13. Small Man Complex • lOd

Climb the face past big huecos and two bolts.

*

Tenuous moves up a balancey arete.

16. Slot Nose • 5 .8

*

Cl imb the slab and then up into the slot for the last few moves.

CASTLE ROCK • UNDERWORLD AREA

California Ridge California Ridge

When to go

The California Ridge pops above the dense Santa Cruz mountain foliage like an alpine island, affording views westward across miles of deserted ridges that march in hues of blue towards the Pacific. The climbs have steep starts followed by steep, exposed slabs and a lofty summit.

The California Ridge receives copious winter sun, and goes into the shade mid-afternoon during the summer.

Approach Continue on the main trail past the Chew Tooth (directions pg. 224). After a short distance, (about 100 yards) the trail will bump into the obvious summit of the California Ridge. Either walk easily onto the summit to set top ropes, or scramble down the left side of the crag to reach the base.

Gear A rack of quickdraws (8) and a small rack of gear (to 3") will suffice for the climbs here.

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California Ridge

**

***

1. Cal Roof • lla (tr) The easier version of route #2.

5. Mullah • lOa Steep climbing on huge holds leads to a crux mounting the slab.

****

2. Cal Five-Eleven A ·lld Short but brilliant. Clip the first bolt with a long sling as a back-up and directional for the second clip. Turn the 5-foot roof and crank perfect pockets up the steep headwall.

*

6. Thrash and Dangle • 5.8 Top rope the chimney or lead it on gear or move left onto the face past two bolts.

***

7. Guilty as Charged • lOd Turn a tricky roof near the bottom, and then finesse a cruxy arete move left of the second bolt. Going straight up at the 2nd bolt seems like 5.12 .

*

3. Access Denied • lla Face climb past the bolt and climb the corner. Gear to 2".

**

*

8. Band Aids on Road Rash • 5.7 Bring some gear to 3" for the bottom or top rope.

4. Ayatollah • lla/d Very contrived to stay on the arete.

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CASTLE ROCK • UNDERWORLD AREA

The Underworld The Underworld

When to go

Well-hidden in the bottom of a shady ravine, Underworld Rock is a good place to escape the heat and crowds.

Year-round. Due to its canyon-bottom locale, the crag can remain damp in the winter, but is also cooler (but buggier) during the summer.

Approach

Gear

Use the directions on page 224 to reach the base of The Chew Tooth where you can pick up a small trail t hat heads steeply downhill before veering right and continuing down canyon. After about 5 minutes, the top side of The Underworld Cliff will come into view to your left. Or you can drop straight down from the base of California Ridge.

Quickdraws (8) + a few 1-2" cams .. Bring longer slings for the anchors, which are shared by almost all of the climbs. If there are other climbers at the rock, it is possible to share the top anchor bolts (be smart and courteous if you do this), or rig an anchor from the tree. The top is easily accessible for rigging top ropes.

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CASTLE ROCK • UNDERWORLD AREA

The Underworld - East Face

****

1. Poop Shoot • lOd Tricky climbing up a groove (left of the first bolt) leads to a tufa-like hanging feature and the "Poop Shoot". A small cam (1") can be placed between bolt 4 and 5.

**

2. Hair Dresser • lOa Some fun moves up the crack lead to a gear placement and a huge runout (bring slings to thread holes up high). probably a bad idea to trust cams in the loose flakes up high. You can also scramble to the top and set up a top rope if leading seems like a bad idea.

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**

3. Balance Sheet i lOa Hard moves off the ground (the crux) lead to easier cl imb ing past a bolt, a big runout (bring a 1.5" piece) and another smeary crux passing the last bolt. Top rope- able.

*

4. Underpass • llb This contrived route has some fun moves if you can resist the urge to use the crack two feet to the left.

**

5. High on Life • 5.8 Bring gear to 3" to protect the climbing to the 1st bolt.

The Underworld - Southwest Face 6. Black Market Babies llb

** Bold

between the 2nd and 3rd bolts.

7. Gestapo Priest lOd

**

Cranker moves up a short, crisp flake make this short route worthwhile. High first bolt!

8. Drug Lord Direct Start lOd

**

**

9. Drug Lord lOd Sub-six-foot people may struggle to clip the third bolt and reach the good holds.

***

10. Hit Man lOa At the second bolt, move right and climb steeply out the left side of a big hole. The bolt just up and right (from the 3rd bolt) is for a different route.

SOUTH BAY • CASTLE ROCK BOULOERING

Castle Rock 5ouldering Castle Rock Boulders

Approach

The clusters of high quality sandstone boulders strewn about the forest surrounding Castle Rock provide the most concentrated bouldering in the Castle Rock area. Castle Rock is the Bay Areas premier bouldering spot - you'll encounter bizarre, highly technical moves on slopers and pockets (often compared with the French area Fontainebleau) that, while frustratingly hard, are all the more satisfying once mast ered.

From the parking lot head up the trail that begins from the south end of the lot (not the Saratoga Gap Trail). After about 50 feet, branch r ight on a smaller trail that leads to Parking Lot Rock. Follow a trail leading up from Parking Lot Rock for another two minutes to the Castle Rock Boulders, near the The Spoon (V2).

Gear Pads.

When to go Winter, spring and fall provide the best grip conditions. Don't climb the boulders when they are wet or damp! The holds are fragile when wet.

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Saratoga rd.

Saratoga ave.

Saratoga

Sandborn-Skyline County Park

SOUTH BAY • CASTLE ROCK BOULDERING

Best Of the Castle Rock Boulders - Locator Map The Magoos

Parking Lot Rock 1. The Tree Route • V 4

2. Yabo Roof • V5

***

****

***

9. Dog Dish Traverse • V5

***

10. Mr Magoo • V2 11. Overhanging Lieback • V2

Saratoga Gap Boulder The Graveyard

*** ***

3. Yabo Problem • V6

4. Blind Sided • V6

***

***

12. Hueco Wall • V6 13. Pyramid Crack • V2 R

Castle Rock Boulders

*** *** 7. Bates Arete • V 4 ***** 8. Waimea Wall • V1 *** 5. The Spoon. V2 6. Duct Tape • V5

*** 14. Domino Theory • V3 *** 15. The Ecoterrorist • V10 ***

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SOUTH BAY • CASTLE ROCK BOULDERING

Parking Lot Rock Parking Lot ·Rock and The Saratoga Gap Boulder Yablonski, Cosgrove, Collins, Sharma .... these are just a few of the high-powered climbers to work this excellent boulder over the years, finding signature lines like The Yabo Roof, The Tree Route and Deforestation, to name just a few.

Approach From the pay parking lot, head up the main Castle Rock trail for about 50 feet and locate an unmarked trail that forks right into the woods. Follow this trail for about 100 yards to Parking Lot Rock. (Map: page 240).

***

Parking Lot Rock

Start in the 12. Yabo Roof • V5 cave and finish straight up.

**

1. Lets Get Hurt • V3 Hard and scary at the top. Tip: build a flat landing area with your pads.

***

2. The Flakes • V2 All fun and games till the slopey top out. Tip: build a flat landing area with your pads.

**

**

13. Coz Daddy Roof • V6 Start in the cave and finish to the right. Saratoga Gap Boulder is 60 yards from the pay parking lot, down along the right side of the Saratoga Gap Trail.

3. V1 This is a fun problem but a fallen tree has messed up the top out. Someday the tree will rot away.

***

4. Pockets • V1 A cool line that is unfortunately squeezed a little by a tree.

***

Start 5. Parking Lot Traverse • V6 about 8 feet right of #4 and traverse left, staying low, all the way to The Tree Route and finish on that problem.

***

6. Coz Mama Roof • V4 (not shown) The bulbous sit start around the corner from #7 offers forearm-scraping fun .

**

7. Lieback • V1 Stand start or traverse in from the left.

**

8. Collins Problem • V9 Grab the two tiny crimps and pop up to another and top out.

***

9. Deforestation • V8 There used to be a tree here, now there is just a ridiculously hard problem.

****

10. The Tree Route • V4 Start low and climb the line. 11. Rug Head • V2

*** Start low.

***

14. Blind Sided • V6 Climb the bear-hug feature till you can slap out right to a sloping hueco.

***

15. Yabo Problem • V6 Climb the hue cos . to a huge move at the top. This problem is also sometimes called "Groundation".

SOUTH BAY • CASTLE ROCK BOULDERING

Castle Rock Boulders The Back Side of Castle Rock The Boulders scattered around the back and front of Castle Rock have some excellent problems. Combined with the Magoo Boulders, a stones throw uphill, this is the most concentrated bouldering area in the park.

Approach From the pay parking lot, head up the main Castle Rock trail for about 50 feet and locate an unmarked trail that forks right into the woods. Follow this trai l for about 100 yards to Parking Lot Rock and continue uphill for another 50 yards to The Spoon; most of the problems are within 100 feet to your right. (Map: page 240).

Castle Rock Backside Boulders A few of the following problems are on the base of Castle Rock proper, the others are jumbled about just below.

1. YO

**

***

2. Waimea Arete • YS R Pad this well and get a good spot.

***

3. Waimea Wall • Yl Getting down is half the fun!

***

Duct Tape • YS (not shown) Find this right to left arete traverse on a boulder to the left of Waimea Arete.

** Fun jugs. 5. Bates Arete • Y4 ***** Start all

4. Warm-Up • YO

the way at the bottom - don't skip the moves around the lowest corner.

***

(not shown) Climb The Block • YS the highball arete to the right of the big cave on Castle Rock. Pads + spotter!

360° Rock This rock is found just below the trail, behind the previously listed boulders. 6. 360" Traverse • VB right, staying low.

***

Left to

7. The Edge • V2 *** Tricky and satisfying, once figured.

**

B. Mr. Clean • V4 Sit start on a hueco and stay right of the arete.

The Beak This rock is found between Castle Rock and the Magoo Boulders. 9. The Beak Traverse • V4 left to right. 10. Reider Mantle • V7 sloper... old-school hard! 11. The Beak • VB

**

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The Spoon This rock is the first you'll see when you come up the trail from Parking Lot Rock. Photo below of Jon Brooks on the classic Spoon Route • V2 ***·

SOUTH BAY • CASTLE ROCK BOULOERING

TheMagoos The Magoos The Magoo Boulders are ground zero for Castle Rock Bouldering, offering the highest concentration of classic problems and great, flat landings.

Approach From the pay parking lot, head up the main Castle Rock trail for about 50 feet and locate an unmarked tra il that forks right into the woods. Follow this trail for about 100 yards to Parking Lot Rock and continue uphill for another 50 yards and around the left side of Castle Rock to the Magoos. (Map: page 240).

Mr Magoo Boulder 1. Bates Problem • VS

**

A one-move wonder that is a popular testpiece. Sit start is V9.

*

2. V9 One move wonder into Mr Magoo. 3. Mr Magoo • Vl The sit start is V2.

4. Vl

***

**

There are two finishes to this prob lem.

Mr Magoo Boulder

***

5. Overhanging Lieback • V2 Start in a left hand pocket and slap your way up the arete feature with your right hand. An el iminate to the left uses only the arete and the ramp (V4

***). 6. The Roof Crack • Vl **

Start under the roof and work up the flake.

***

7. Magoo Face • V3 Climb the bulg ing slab to a hueco. 8. Mantle • Vl

*

CASTLE ROCK • THE MAGOO BOULDERS

Mrs Magoo Boulder

**

1. Mrs Magoo Traverse • V 4 Traverse from left to right and finish left of the next route.

**

2. Mrs Magoo • V3 Slopers and more slopers. A good intro to Castle Rock bouldering.

***

3. The Groove. Vl This easy-looking crack can easily turn into V6 if you mess it up. A must do Castle Rock problem !!

Mrs Magoo Boulder

**

5. Roof Traverse • V3 Start way down there and stem and scrunch up the tube-like roof and finish up a groove.

**

6. Kauk Roof • V6 Climb straight out the blank roof.

***

7. The Swim • V3 Start low and climb to the slopey top out under a tree branch.

Dog Dish Boulder

***

8. Dog Dish Traverse • VS Start low and climb to the left staying low and pass the "dog dish" before finishing on #10.

***

9. Highball • VO Very high and very fun .

***

10. The Warm-Up • Vl Start matched low, left of the face and traverse onto and up the face. Off-route the right arete for an even cooler problem. (Photo opposite page).

SOUTH BAY • CASTLE ROCK BOULDERS

The Grave_yard Boulders The Graveyard The Graveyard Boulders are found along the Castle Rock Trail, beginning 30 yards below the Magoos and Castle Rock. Each of the five boulders listed has at least one uniquely classic problem.

Approach From the Dog Dish Boulder at the Magoos, hike downhill about 30 yards to the Hueco Wall, and reference the map on page 240 for the location of the other boulders.

Hueco Wall 1. Hueco Wall • VS start slappin'.

***

Sit start and

2. Hueco Wall Traverse • V6 ** Start as for #1, but traverse left avoiding the jug on #1.

***

3. The Slap • VS (not shown) On the uphill side of the rock, sit start and climb the blunt right hand arete and sloper pocket. 4. The Slope • V4 ** (not shown) Next to #3, Start in the little cave and climb past a hueco to a sloper top out.

Pyramid Rock

****

5. Pyramid Crack • Vl R A beautiful left leaning crack splits the back face of Pyramid Rock. Pads might help if you fall off the top, but injury is likely due to the height and bad landing zone. Either don't fall, or just top rope it. Either way, you'll have to do the dicey up/down climb on the other side, a dirty 5.6, 30 feet high.

***

6. Pyramid Scheme • YO Climb the bottom half of The Pyramid Crack, but bail out left at the jug until you can step off to the boulder.

7. Domino Traverse • VS right + around corner.

**

Left to

***

8. Domino Theory • V2 A rare line of positive grips at Castle Rock. Start on the low jug, reach the next jug and either crimp or dyno to the top.

***

Start on the same jug as #8, but climb up and right, past some nice holds. Its ok to traverse left at the top if yer scairt.

9. Domino Arete • V3

****

Start in the hueco and go for the lip. The top out is the crux. 10. Eco Terrorist • V10

11 . Wish You Were Here • V9

**

Start on underclings and ascend the thin face above. Often dirty.

12. Egghead • VB

**

Start low and traverse up and right to the harder finish . Direct start is VB also.

SOUTH BAY • INDIAN ROCK BOULDERS

Indian Rock

Boulders Around Indian Rock The boulders scattered around Indian Rock (a 50ft. tall sport crag) are loaded with great problems.

Approach From the Indian Rock parking area, the first boulders are visible just past the gate and continue up and over along the trail to Indian Rock. The sometimes forgotten "Down Under" area has several cool boulders in the steep canyon 50100 yards below Indian Rock.

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SOUTH BAY • INDIAN ROCK BOULDERS

Indian Rock Boulders Trailside Boulder The big, mossy boulder nearest the parking lot has several overgrown problems.

1. Tafoni Baloney • V4

***

On the face facing away from the parking lot, move up pockets and underclings to a big move to a hidden gaston and top out. (Not shown).

Clamshell Boulder This low boulder is found next to the traiL 100 yards up from the parking lot. The obvious short arete you will see from the trail is the problem "Static Reach".

**

2. The Clam • V3 Sit start on the big hold under the roof and climb out.

**

3. The Clam Traverse • V9 Start on The Clam but traverse left. Scrunchy.

***

4. Static Reach • V9 Sit start down and left of the arete and slap your way across and up. (Not shown).

Indian Cracks Take the 1st right fork in the traiL 75 yards from the parking lot, to find this super-fun block.

** Start low. 6. Indian Face • VO *** Start

5. Indian Crack • VO

on the low hueco and climb up and right.

**

7. Honey Dipper • Vl Start low on good holes on the slab. 8. Raw Honey • V3 *** Start low on a dark intrusion and work straight up past an undercling and the big diagonal sloper.

**

Start 9. Sloper Route • V2 on the low jug and move left past an undercling to a sloper top out. 10. Inch n' a Quarter • Vl Start low on jugs.

***

Indian Rock Boulders Hash Rock A small boulder in front of Indian Rock.

** Start on the horizontal hold. 12. Revolving Holes • V1 * Pocket start. 13. Undercling • VO ** Start low. 11. Sloper • V2

Sharma Arete On the trail down the right side of Indian Rock.

**** Start in the hueco. 15. Sharma Arete • V9 **** Tricky + scary. 14. THEE Classic • V4

Down Under Rocks down canyon below Indian Rock.

**

16. Santa Cruz Dude • V3 (Not shown). 1st boulder below Indian Rock. Dyno from crimps.

*** New name, old problem. 18. Asian Invasion • V7 *** Sit start. Slap the 17. Sticky Rice • V3

aretes! A previously unnamed problem first climbed in the 80s.

*** Highball arete. 20. Dark Side of the Moon • V6 *** 21. Right Hand Indian Man • V6 *** Sit start. 22. Left Hand Indian Man • V4 ** Sit start

19. The Shark • V2

SOUTH BAY • NATURE NAZI BOULDERS

Nature Nazi Boulders Nature Nazi Boulders The Nature Nazis, a cluster of a half dozen rocks, offer about a dozen fun problems, many variations, and one of the shortest approaches in the park. Don't miss FF Crack and The Nature Nazi Traverse.

Approach From the free parking on the east side of Skyline walk through the gate and branch left after about 20 feet on a trail that parallels the road and walk about 150 yards to the boulders, on the left side of the trail. (Map: pg 252).

1. FF Crack • V4 ** (Aka Kermit the Frog) Kermit will definitely chew you up ...will he spit you out too? Traverse the wide crack from right to left.

2. VO * Easy warm-up. The knobby face around the corner to the left is Vl (**). 3. Funky Arete • Vl ** Straight up the arete, the big hold to the left on the top is off-route. 4. Funky Face • Vl ** Up the middle, the arete is off-route.

5. Slab • VO * If you off-route the right arete its about V2. 6. Minimalism • V2 ** Straight up the slab - no arete. 7. Man in the Canoe • V2 ** Jumping from the ground makes this VO and jingus. 8. Lieback Flake • VO ** Balancey start. Hand traverse right to finish +descend. 9. Sloper Traverse • V6? ** Left to right on very sloping holds.

10. Nature Nazi Traverse - sit • Sit-start in the cave, do V6 some hard moves and then hand traverse left to right and top out same as #11.

**

11. Nature Nazi Traverse • V4 Start where the holds get a little better and traverse and top out as shown in the picture.

***

**

12. Count Power Pull • VS Start bear-hugging on two side pulls and make a couple hard moves past some nice crimps at the lip.

****

13. Nature Nazi Arete • V8 Start low on crimps on the bottom right side of the arete. Burly!

**

14. The Direct • V 4 (Not shown) On the boulder closest to the road, on a face facing the road, start on a chest-high crimp and make a move out right, then straight up.

**

15. The Indirect • V3 Start on the same crimp as # 14 but work out to the right and up.

Christine Zalecki closes in on the sloper crux of one of Castle Rocks best problems. The traverse begins on the logical starting holds far to the left and traverses right to a sloping top-out just past some round pockets. A great up problem (Lost Keys • V3 **** ) starts low in the middle of the wall and makes a big move up and right to a sloper diagonal rail and topout. To find this boulder, sleuth out a faint trail that heads downhill at an angle from the main trail just below the Clamshell Boulder. The total hike takes around six minutes. Map on pg. 252.

SOUTH BAY • CASTLE ROCK

The Klinghoffers

The Klinghotfer Boulders

The trail hits the Klinghoffe rs sloper arete problem "Right Hand

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****

1. Right Hand Man • V7 s· left hand sidepull, right hand u and slap the right hand up the :-e-2

2. Left Hand Boy • V2

Klinghoffer Boulders

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The secluded Klinghoffer Boulders offer a quiet getaway on most days and several excellent problems including the 40ft. long "Klinghoffer Traverse".

3. Klinghoffer Traverse • VS : with your left hand in a two- _e- ::: et, right hand on a sidepu ll and · .,_ left and top out above the la c ·: -

Approach

4. Center Seam • Vl

From the parking lot, the quickest approach involves walking 10 minutes back down the highway, past the christmas tree farm to a State Park service road on the left. Walk up the service road for about 5 minutes to a very faint and easy to miss trail on the left. If you reach the "Interpretive Shelter", you've gone too far by about a minute. Once you have located the faint trail, follow it carefully for about 5 minutes as it meanders through open fields and eventually down to the left, into the woods to the boulders.

5. Achielle Larro • V4

***

***

6. Grey Face • Vl hue co. Pads + spotters!

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-

1. Oswald Cheese • V2 *** spooky highball on the r ight side.

8. Coz Solo • V3 X *** Sta holds and solo to the top! 9. Superman was out of Town • Another high, committing proble;;-;

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The Klinghoffers The trail hits the Klinghoffers at the sloper arete problem "Right Hand Man".

****

1. Right Hand Man • V7 Sit start left hand sidepull, right hand undercling and slap the right hand up the arete. 2. Left Hand Boy • V2

**

Sit start.

****

3. Klinghoffer Traverse • VS Start with your left hand in a two-finger pocket, right hand on a sidepull and traverse left and top out above the last big hueco. 4. Center Seam • Vl

***

5. Achielle Larro • V4

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6. Grey Face • Vl *** Highball past the hue co. Pads +spotters! 7. Oswald Cheese • V2 *** Another spooky highball on the right side.

***

Start on tieback 8. Coz Solo • V3 X holds and solo to the top! 9. Superman was out of Town • V3 X Another high, committing problem.

**

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SOUTH BAY • SUNNYVALE MOUNTAIN

Mountain Tree-in-the-Wall Boulders This recently rediscovered area is located 2 miles further up the road (south) from Castle Rock. The sandstone is not quite as good, but still plenty fun and a nice change of pace from the crowds at Castle. There are numerous boulders spread out over a large area, but only a few of the more developed are listed here.

Approach Drive 2 miles south on highway 35 from the Castle Rock parking lot and turn left into a big parking lot for Sunnyvale Mountain. Take the fire road trail to the left and, after about 100 yards, take the left fork and walk another 100 yards to The Tree-in-the-Wall Boulder on the right. Drop down a few yards to a lower trail and turn left for about 75 paces to a very faint trail on the right that leads down and left to the Drunk as a Skunk Boulders.

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2 miles to Castle Rock

Tree-in-the-Wall Boulder You'll know you are at the right rock by the huge tree growing against it.

1. Stretch Armstrong • V4

****

Superfun clean face. Start with your left hand on a low sidepull and right hand on a sloper bump and smear up to a long move to a small hueco and then move right over the tree and onto the slab. Classic !

**

2. Bees Nest • V4 Start low with a left hand crimp/thin slot and right hand sidepull sloper. Angle left at the top.

**

3. Corridor Arete • V2 (not shown) Down, around and up from The Bees Nest, past a V3 arete, is this block in the corridor with a bad landing zone.

Pirate Boulder Walk downhill 25 feet from Tree-in-theWall and turn left on a faint trail. Walk about 75 paces to a right turn onto a fainter trail and follow it down and left.

**

4. Ruperts Ride • V2 Start low and traverse right into Poop-Shute Pirate.

***

5. Poop-Chute Pirate • V3 Start on a right-hand sidepull jug and reach left and then go straight up over the bulge.

**

6. Pirates Lookout • Vl Up to a big hold for the right and then back left.

Drunk as a Skunk Boulder Walk 25 feet downhill from The Pirate Boulder to find this short face facing downhill. The upper side has a few problems (VO-V3) as well, but they are not shown in the photo.

7. The Tall Bastard • V8 *** Faces downhill below the Poop Shute Boulder. Start in the scoop and move out left to the blunt arete and up.

***

8. Drunk as a Skunk • V6 Start in the scoop with a left hand undercling and right hand sloper sidepull and go up. The big sidepull at the lip might break. It will be harder in that case.

SOUTH BAY • SUMMIT ROCK

Summit Rock Summit Rock

Gear

Summit Rock is part of SanborneSkyline County Park, near Castle Rock. The main wall features sport and trad routes on fine-grained sandstone that is (for the most part) solid and fun to climb on. As of June, 2012, the access to this area remains restricted due to nesting peregrine falcons. It is possible that climbing rnay soon be allowed here again, on a seasonal basis. Check the Access Fund website for further details.

8 quickdraws and some longer slings. Gear to 4" if you want to lead the cracks. Optional: bring a garbage bag to pack out broken bottles and trash left by idiot partyers.

When to go

Approach On Skyline Blvd, park on the left in a dirt lot 1.7 miles south of the intersection with highway 9. Hike out the dirt road for about a half mile and descend a trail on the right side of the rock to the base of the main face.

Summit Rock is closed for raptor nesting. However, a promising effort is underway to allow climbing here during non-nesting months (July-Feb.) Check the Access Fund website for the most current status. Saratoga rd.

Saratoga ave.

Saratoga

Sandborn-Skyline County Park

Summit Rock Main Face 1. Ribbed for Comfort • 5.9

* (tr)

**

2. The Wide Crack • 5.7 Most people top rope this, but it can be led.

***

3. Bolt Filcher • lOd Steep crux after the bulge. Very fun.

***

4. U.S.C. Practice Climb #1 • 5.8 Steep and technical climbing past 4 bolts.

**

5. Double Cracks • 5.9 Usually top roped but can be led (gear to 3.5").

****

6. Rectalphobiac • llb PG A very technical and varied climb on nice rock.

**

7. Glob of Shit • lOc

8. The Roof Crack • 5.9

* Gear to 3".

*

9. Chancroid • llc PG The 1st bolt may be missing a hanger.

***

10. Skillsaw Gourmet • lld Tricky. Bring a 2-inch cam for the top. 11. U.S.C. Practice Climb #2 • 5.7 Popular first lead, but not a gimme.

*

*** Gear to 4". 13. Rigormorris • 12b ** Gear to 3". 12. Tree Surgeon • lOa

Sustained and delicate arete climbing .

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SOUTH BAY • AQUARIAN VALLEY

Aquarian Valley

Approach

If you need a break from the noise of the city and the crowds at the climbing gym, Aquarian Valley delivers. The climbing is not up to par with nearby Castle Rock, but there are some worthy routes and boulder problems that will keep you interested for a visit or two.

Park in the Stevens Canyon Trail lot on Skyline Blvd., 3.3 miles north of the Junction with Hwy 9. Cross the street and turn right on the dirt road and walk about a quarter mile until it crosses a private road and continues on the other side. The trail forks here (after about 20 feet), take the smaller left fork downhill till it hits an old dirt road. Turn right and shortly you will come to a clearing with a trail leading into the woods at the bottom end. You'll pass a trail sign here. Continue down canyon several hundred yards and the trail will become less distinct near the waterfall; the Stoner Cave and the mossed-over Waterfall Wall are just across the creek. See the map on the next page for the location of the crags .

When to go Year-round.

Gear 8 quickdraws and some longer slings. Crashpads for the Stoner Cave.

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trail sign

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please follow the red roLLte to avoid crossi ng private property.

•

3.4 miles tc highway 9

... ...

·.

SOUTH BAY • AQUARIAN VALLEY

Aquarian Valley The Stoner Cave Waterfall Wall and The Motherload Hidden deep in the woods and moss, these three areas offer a quiet escape and some excellent hard bouldering in The Stoner Cave plus decent cragging on the slabby Waterfall Wall or the vertical Motherload Cliff.

The Motherload Cliff From the Stoner Cave, find a faint trail trending left downhill past ZPG Now, a leaning boulder with a 12b top rope. Continue down and left to The Motherload, about 200 steep yards further. Do not follow the creek channel. You will probably get lost, but keep looking, you'll find it eventually. On the downhill side of the cliff you will find the following routes:

1. Mother Load • llb PG

***

(no topo) This is the vertical sport route on the left. Sustained positive edges. 4 bolts.

**

2. Chewy's Lookout • lOc (no topo) The right hand route with 3 bolts. Both routes are easy to set up for top roping.

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small waterfall

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Now! • •• Stoner • Cave The · . • ' "' ( Motherload faint trail trending left

•• •

Waterfall

w4 11

to Aquarlan Falls and the Stoner Cave.

Aquarian Valley The Stoner Cave Only a handful of problems here, but they are hard and very good. You will cross the creek (down a big slabby boulder) to find the cave entrance.

*

1. Painted Wall • Vl This wall, once covered with graffiti, has been painted grey in an attempt to restore the rock to its original color. Grab high edges and top out. 2. Aquarian Project • V?? ***** This super-project could conceivably traverse out of the cave to link with the Stoner Traverse. Might be Vl3 or harder? 3. The Tufa • V3 *** This classic problem has a bad landing in spots. Start on the "tufa" and make a huge move to a good pocket. Finish by stepping onto The Painted Wall when you can. Variation starts: Swinger • VS starts on the sloping scoop (red dot) down and left, while Aqua Velva • V4 begins down and right (red dot) on a good left hand 2-finger pocket

***, ****,

***

4. Aquarius • VS Thuggish climbing up the seam. Start near the red dot on a good 2-finger pocket for the left hand.

***

5. Ken Kesey • V8 Start near the red dot on a good 2-finger pocket for the left hand and traverse the right edge of the roof to a good hold and hang and drop.

***

6. The Stoner Traverse • V7 A unique problem for the area featuring powerful pulls on steep pockets. Start matched on an undercling (red dot on the far right in the lower photo) and make a move up to a sinker pocket and traverse right to a low jug to finish .

SOUTH BAY • GUADALUPE ROCK

Guadalupe Rock Guadalupe Rock

Gear

Tucked deep into a flooded canyon, Guadalupe Rock often gets a bum rap because of its unigue location in a creek bed that is seasonally flooded by the Guadalupe Reservoir. In the fal l and early winter, the base can be dry and the climbing, while limited, is fun, offering a few leads and top ropes on a 60ft. high plug of dark, mostly solid Basalt.

6 guickdraws and a few longer slings for the set-back anchors on top. Bring a few 1"-2" cams if you want to lead the crack.

When to go Late fall, early winter. The base is submerged much of the year.

Approach

Camden Ave

From Camden Ave in Los Gatos, turn on Hicks Rd. and drive 5-10 minutes till you reach the dam. Set your odometer and drive another mile to a small turnout on the right where you can see the rock up ahead in the creek bed . Walk just past the rock to find a good trail down into the canyon.

Los Gatos

Hicks Rd

Guadalupe Reservoir

Guadalupe Rock

SOUTH BAY • GUADALUPE ROCK

Lower Guadalupe Rock Lower Guadalupe Rock is only climbable when the base IS dry enough for a belay spot. Some adventurous locals have shallow-water bouldered here in times of high-water, but that can be sketchy since the water is often not deep enough. Some of the bolts have been recently replaced, making for a better leading experience than in the past. Top ropes are easy to set by walking to the top - a few longer slings are useful to extend past the edge.

1. Bolt Line • 5.7

**

Tricky but easy climbing past four bolts leads to the summit. Some hollow rock is found along the way.

***

2. Guadalupe Crack • 5.9 Steep moves up the crack lead to gear placements (1"- 2" cams) and the crux . A couple of bolts protect the climbing higher up. You can also walk to the top and set up a top rope if leading seems like a bad idea. 3. Tidal Wave • lla (tr variation)

***

Top rope the lighter swath of rock past some underclings and side-pulls.

***

4. Tidal Wave • lla (lead var.) The bolts on this route were placed in solid rock; the more natural line goes up to the left but the rock there is not sound enough for safe bolt placements. This variation is a fun lead once you figure out where the hard-to-spot holds are.

*

5. Right Crack • 5.9 Not recommended as a lead.

**

6. Right Face • 5.9 An often wet start and complicated top rope set-up (to avoid a swing) combine to make this route not so popular.

Panther Beach This remote beach features bouldering along the bottom of a 200-yard cliff of exquisitely sculpted soft sandstone.

Where From Beach st and Front St in Santa Cruz, drive 8.5 miles south along hwy I, approximately to mile marker 26.5 . Park on the rise on the ocean side of the highway, between the road and railroad tracks and walk down a steep trail to the beach, through the " Hole in the Wall " (has to be low tide!!) to the more secluded of the two beaches.

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When Year-round, when the tide is low.

Gear A pad is nice for a starting spot out of the sand, but the sand is much softer than a pad when you fall off. A towel is nice for cleaning sand off your feet or climbing shoes,

Tip Climb barefoot and make up your own problems. The rock is softer and sandier the higher you go, so jump off before you get too high. Bring a picnic and a skimboard.

SIERRA FOOTHILLS • COLUMBIA BOULDERS

Columbia Boulders Columbia College and Columbia State Park

Driving directions From downtown Sonora, turn left when highway 49 Ts at Wash ington St and drive for a mile or so and follow signs for Parrotts Ferry Rd and Columbia State Park. After 4 miles total, turn right onto Columbia St and park in the huge lot. To reach the College, make a right onto Sawmill Flat Rd and follow signs to the College. A $1 parking fee may be charged.

The strange formations found around Columbia State Park and College provide a bouldering playground like no other. Once buried deeply in soil, rabid gold-diggers doggedly hydromined many miles of land to depths of 30 feet during the 1850s, unearthing hundreds of spires and small cliffs of case-hardened marble. The following pages are a select guide. For a more comprehensive guide, buy "Columbia Bouldering" by Dean Fleming and Daniel Forbes.

Approach Check the maps and individual areas for approach directions to each area.

When to go Fall, spring and winter. Summer is WAY too hot.

Horse t r ai l Boulders

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SIERRA FOOTHILLS • COLUMBIA BOULDERS

Columbia State Park Boulders The boulders found around the State Park picnic area and along the Stage Coach Road offer some of the most accessible bouldering in the area. Be sure to be courteous to the stagecoach driver and the "bandit" who robs them at fake gunpoint. Be willing to hide behind the rocks while he is doing his gig.

• • •

Picnic Boulders

• • •

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Picnic Boulders Wander over about 100 yards from the parking lot to .this often crowded park anc boulderfield.

*

1. Picnic • Vl Climb the easy-looking face on slopey holds in the middle of the wall.

****

2. No Picnic • V4 Sit start and wrestle the fun and techn ica.. prow to the top.

**

3. Plaquerer Cracker • Vl Start low in the crack and work up it or straight up the face. A spot is advised to avoid hurting yourself on the plaque.

Picnic Boulders

From the plaque, walk about 50 feet to your left to a trail that enters the boulderfield near the following problem. 4. The Prow • VS

***

Start low on a right hand undercling and left on the left arete.

5. Axe Wound • V4

**

Sit start on the sloping rail and use the arete and crack to go up. 6. Rail Entrance • VS

*

Traverse the slorer rai l into the start of Axe Wound and finish it.

Ghost Town Boulders

Cross the street and find a trail that starts 50 feet to the left of the old cabins. The problems are 30 seconds up the trail - Big Easy on the left, Castle Rock Problems on the right. 7. Big Easy • VO

***

Haul jugs up the steep and clean face.

8. African Roof • V1

**

Sit start and climb up the wafer flakes.

** 10. Castle Rock Problem #2 • V3 ** 9. Castle Rock Problem #1 • V2

Start on the undercling.

SIERRA FOOTHILLS • COLUMBIA BOULDERS

Columbia State Park - Stage Coach Road Boulders Check the map on the previous pages for the general location of these boulders. The dirt access road just right of the ghost cabins across from the parking lot, a sign "stagecoaches only' confirms the proper road . Stagecoach Boulders

Hike the stagecoach road for a few hundred yards and just after the road bends to the left, find the obvious boulder cluster on your left. This is where the "bandit" will be hanging out on days the tourist stagecoach is running. Be courteous and willing to hide behind the rocks or even leave while he is holding up the stagecoach.

*

1. The Flake • VO Start on a jug and do a big move past the moss to the flake.

***

2. Sloper Rail • V4 Sit start and wrestle the sequential arete.

**

3. Crack • Vl Start on a fin and work up to the crack.

***

4. Stagecoach Arete • VO Start low and climb fun fins and jugs to a high topout. The face to the left is also VO.

Horse Trail Boulders Continue along the stagecoach road until the end is in sight and look for a well worn trail that heads right. 5. The Reach-Around • Vl *** After about 30 seconds on the trail, this boulder is found in a pit just right of the trail. Traverse the flakes from right to left around and then up into a scoop.

****

6. Horse Trail Prow • V3 R Climb fantastic fins on a very steep and colorful wall to a cruxy top-out.

****

7. Horse Trail Arete • V3 30 seconds further along the trail, this problem is found next to the trail. Climb it using a tricky combination of fins and slopers.

****

8. Horse Trail Face • VS Sit start low on a sharp arete and climb up and then left and top out in the U-notch. 9. Broken Face • Vl from the right. 9. Font Arete • V2 trip to France!

*** Start low or *** Its like a quick

SIERRA FOOTHILLS • COLUMBIA BOULDERS

Columbia College - Lower Arboretum Follow the road map on pg 278 to Columbia College. At the Toyon Building, a nature trail branches off the walkway and winds down to a meadow where a labyrnth of boulders begins. The first rock you will see, out by itself on t he right, is t he Meadow Boulder. The Triple Cracks area is across the meadow, behind a few smaller rocks.

Upper 0 Arboretum

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1. The Meadow Boulder 2. Stillwater Area 3. Wonder No More 4. Superman Area 5. Lobster Claw 6. Triple Cracks 7. The Cave Area 8. The Back Area 9. The Dance Floor 10. Sport cl imbs

Triple Cracks

As the nature trail flattens out into a meadow (a pond at times), walk straight ahead and find this awesome boulder to the right of the highest formation .

**

1. Triple Crack Arete • V3 Climb the easy-looking face on slopey holds in the middle of the wall.

****

2 . Tr iple Crack Traverse. VB Sit start and wrestle the fun and technical prow to the top. ·

*****

3. Triple Cracks • V6 Start low in the V-shaped cracks. One of the coolest problems at Columbia.

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The Meadow Boulder

12. Pope Dispenser • V8 *** Up the

This boulder will be on your right when you first drop into the meadow. 4. V1 ** Sit start and climb up and

right along a rail.

arete and then bail right onto the face.

13. The Chute • V4 *** Stand start on

the arete or the crack and go up the face. ·; >. ' -:'); +. ; ·{

5. V1 *** Sit start and climb straight

up.

6. V2 *** Stand start on spread out sidepull pinches. Cool marble features! 7. Preston's Armbar • V2 *** Stand start on sidepulls. Or sit start at VS. 8. Mini Roof • V2 ** Stand start on

sidepulls.

9. Right Arete • VO * Stand start.. 10. Birdwell Traverse • V9 *** This was one of the hardest problems in California when first climbed, in 1978, by Preston Birdwell. The Meadow Boulder

This 30 foot-high boulder is found in the trees 50 feet past The Meadow Boulder. Highball! Lotsa Pads!! 11. Mind Over Matter • V10

*****

Super proud highball up the arete and then left onto the face and left arete.

.

':

.

\

SIERRA FOOTHILLS • COLUMBIA

Columbia College - Lower Arb. The Canyon • Sport Climbs 75 feet behind the Cave Area, the trail turns left and enters a steep-walled canyon with faces up to SOft. high where you witt find several sport climbs.

1. The Prow • lld R

****

Climb the blunt prow past 2 bolts to a run-out top.

****

2 . The Roof • lOd Climb the stab to a steep hanging block /roof. The Dance Floor Continue past "The Canyon" for another 100 feet, passing a huge boulder with an eyehole in it, to a cave with a flat roof.

***

3. Swing Dance • VlO Start matched on the slot and climb out the roof (the sidewalls are off-route).

***

Start with a 4 . The Waltz • VlO right hand pinch at the lip (red dot).

****

20 yards prior 5. Justin Case • VS to the Dance Floor, a trail forks left to a clean highball chute feature with a rocky tanding zone -bring tons of pads!

The Back Area This area is reached by wandering through The Canyon till you pop out near The Fang.

1. Center Route • V4

**

Stand start and then climb straight up.

**

2. Undercling Start • VS Low start on underclings and go straight up to a high finish above a bad landing.

***

3. The Fang • VS Sit start the tufa and the move up and right across some sharp flakes to a high finish .

****

Sit start 4. Ultimate Trogdor • V8 at the base of fhe prow and slap your way up using both sides.

****

Start on big holds 5. Trogdor • VS on the right side of the prow.

SIERRA FOOTHILLS • COLUMBIA

Columbia College - Lower Arboretum Wonder No More As the nature trail flattens out into a meadow (a pond at times), walk straight ahead and find this boulder on a faint trail leading up into the other boulders.

1. Wonder No More • V7

***

2 . The Rail Problem • V3

**

Sit start matched on a big undercling and go up and left. (not shown) 30 feet up the faint trail above Wonder No More, this short white boulder faces the trail. Superman Area 50 feet up the trail and to the left from the Rail Problem.

**

3. Superman • Vl Left hand mantle start and go straight up, then right.

***

4. Front and Center • V4 Super cool vertical slab with a seam.

***

(not shown). Find 5. 27 Club • V7 this steep problem by walking through the narrow passage left of Superman and then right into a cave. The line starts low and climbs up and left under where the two boulders form a roof. Lobster Claw Check the map on the previous page for the general location of this boulder (up behind the Triple Cracks Boulder).

***

6. Lobster Claw • V4 Sit start on sidepults and slap and tension up the double aretes to a cool topout. The stand start is V2 .

***

7. Try Me • VS (aka Mike Brown Memorial Arete). Sit start on a left hand jug and right hand arete and climb up left, back right and to a crack at the top. The stand start is V4.

**

Start low in the 8. The Crack • Vl crack, then veer right and go straight up. Often dirty.

The Cave Area This chamber is found behind and under the highest, elephant-shaped spire next to Triple Cracks. Crawl down the chimney to get in .

***

1. Repent • VS Sit start and climb up the prow and stem over to the Gold Wall or solo to the top! Highball.

**

2. Lunge Problem • V4 Low start, then up and left and step off.

***

Start 3. Falkenstein Crack • V3 low in the crack and jam up to daylight and step off or solo to the top! 4. The Gold Wall • V3 *** Stand start on good holds and climb up.

**

5. Pinch Problem • V7 Start: left hand pinch, right hand undercling.

***

Grunt up the 6. The OW • YO wide crack to an exciting finish.

**

7. Pope Problem • VS Sit start on the jug and climb over the bulge.

***

8. Cellulite Eliminator • V6 Traverse from the right end of the wall into The Gold Wall Problem, or the OW crack (Vl).

SIERRA FOOTHILLS • COLUMBIA

Columbia College - Upper Arboretum From the parking lot, follow the road (map pg 278) around to the Auto Shop Building, walk just past it and up to the right on another road (to the observatory). Walk past five lamp posts and pick up a small trail on the left that leads through the bushes and down to the boulders. Take the right fork to locate Gold Fever within a few dozen steps. The area is quite small, but maze-like. The problems are closer together than you think.

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Upper Arboretum 2. 4. 6. 8. 9.

Gold Fever All American Finger Crac k Panning For Nugget s Autobahn Area The Cellar Door

. ... Gold Fever Area

As the trail drops down into the boulders, stay on the right fork, up a five-foot high hill and over to these bou lders, about 45 seconds from the 5th lamp post.

***

1. Dirty Sanchez • V6 Climb the high, smooth face past a horizontal crack and poison oak bush that can be avoided .

****

2. Gold Fever • V2 A balancey start topped off by a fun arete. Stay off the arete for added challenge (V3).

**

3. Bitch Slap • V2 Stand start and slap up t he blunt arete.

****

4. All-American Finger Crack • V2 (Not shown) . Find this superb highball in a corridor. Use the map above (#4) . photo on pg 277.

The Nugget This boulder will be on your left very soon after you drop into the Upper Arb.

* Start low. 5. Crack Inspection • Vl **

4. Arete • Vl

The crack.

***

Stand 6. Panning for Nuggets • V3 start the blunt and slabby highball prow. The Autobahn Area Follow the main trail directly downhill and discover a narrow passage into this area.

** Sharp crimps. 8. The Autobahn • VO ** A fun 45ft. long rising crack traverse, from R to L.

7. Blasting Cap • V4

The Cellar Door Area From the Autobahn, continue back into the maze to find this hidden chamber.

****

9. Cellar Door • V6 Thin, sequential stemming.

****

10. Grandma Death • VlO Climb the arete and exit out right up a wide crack. 11. Scoop • V3 *** Stem up the face and wrestle the highball offwidth to the top.

SIERRA FOOTHILLS • TABLE MOUNTAIN

Jailhouse Rock J ai Ihouse Rock

Where

"Jailhouse", a massive cave, 200 feet high and 600 feet long, hosts nearly 100 radically overhanging sport routes. Packed with grades in the 5.12-5.14 range (the easiest is 5.11d!), Jailhouse lays claim to the highest number of hard routes per square foot in the nation . The steep, blocky stone is both thuggish and highly technical. The setting is quintessential California: deeply green hills (or bright gold in the Fall) are decorated with poppies and fuschia and cooled by craggy oaks and gurgling brooks.

About 2 hours east of SF. From Oakdale, take 120 east for 24.2 miles and turn left on Obynes Ferry Rd. Drive 3.7 miles to a pullout on the r ight at a double gate. Enter the gate code (find it on the Access Fund web site) and close the gate behind you. Turn left and follow the dirt road 1/4 mile to a gated parking area on the right and close the gate after entry. The owner has specifically asked that you not park outside the gate alongside O'Byrnes Ferry Road. Keep all gates closed! From the lot, a 15 minute walk on a well-defined path leads to the crag. No dogs are allowed on the property.

Gear The grades given assume you have kneepads and can use them like a Pro. Nearly every route is equipped with permadraws. A 70 meter rope is needed for the longer routes.

) Sonora

When Winter mornings provide the best sending temps. Jailhouse is too hot in the summer, or just about any sunny afternoon, for that matter.

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road

SIERRA FOOTHILLS • J'AILHOUSE

Jailhouse J'ailhouse- Left Side

J'ailhouse- Cave Area

The Left Side goes into the sun early (around 11 a.m. in the dead of winter). It heats up quickly, making it a good choice for the coldest days and a greasy spoogefest almost any other time.

Right of the Left Side is a big cave with a 40ft. horizontal roof. The first three routes listed are on the left side of the cave and are not shown in the topos.

** 2. Rhumb Line • 12b ** 3. Pulp Friction • 12b ** 4. Violated • 13a *** 5. Early Release • 12c ** 6. Line Up • 12b *** 7. Kingpin • 13b ** 8. Supreme Being • 12c ** 9. Burrito Supreme • 12c ** 10. Minimum Security • 12d * 11. Insecurity • 12d **** 1. Chain Gang • 12a

12. Le Mens Sauce • 12d 13. Whipping Boy • 12b

*

**

*** (not shown) 15. Hang Time • 13a ** (not shown) 14. Hard Time • 13a Left finish.

16. Hang Man • 13a Right finish.

*** (not shown)

*** 18. Treason • 13c *** 19. Texas Seven • 13b ** 17. Yoga High • 14b

20. Enemy Combatant • 13d 21. The Warden • 13b

***

**

** 23. Lock Down • 13d ** 22. Lock Off • 13c

24. Mistaken Identity • 13c 25. Scared Straight • 13c

**

*

26. Community Service • 13b

**

SIERRA FOOTHILLS • TABLE MOUNTAIN

The Grotto The Grotto

Driving Directions

A sunken section at the base of the cliff makes this area special for two reasons: one, it stays cooler longer in the slightly subterranean Aoor, and two, about forty extra feet of rare columnar basalt is exposed, upon which you'll find the best cracks this side of Yosemite. The area is dense with routes and offers a unique mix of gear and sport climbs; when your feet start to hurt from too many toejams, just hop on one of the many excellent sport routes and finish off your arms.

From the 108 in Jamestown, follow Rawhide Rd out of town for 2.1 miles and make a turn onto Shell Rd. From here drive a mile or two to a gate that marks the beginning of a rutted dirt road. Follow the dirt road (high clearance is best, but most cars can make it) .8 mile to an obvious parking spot. Make sure to close any and all gates behind you!

Approach From the parking spot walk further along the road (past another gate) for about 5-6 minutes to a good trail on the left that heads back towards the cliffs.

Gear A double rack of cams and stoppers to 3 inches for the cracks, a dozen draws for the sport climbs.

When to go Sunny winter days are often perfect, while fall and spring mornings are good till the sun hits in the afternoon. Summer mornings aren't too bad due to the subterranean aspect.

R Rd a V w i d e 108

gates"\

Jamestown

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C'\. Jailhouse Rock Co'%-

'-., Obyrnes Ferry Road To

Oakdale

I

road

SIERRA FOOTHILLS • TABLE MOUNTAIN

The Grotto The Grotto The Grotto hosts four main walls: the obvious Columns, the short, bolted Ort Wall (opposite the Columns) and a cave zone to the right of the Ort Wall. The Welcome Wall is the wall you pass just before descending into The Grotto. Bring a rack of gear that includes stoppers and double cams to 3 inches.

The Columns The Columns feature some of the best crack climbing this side of Yosemite. As a bonus, the lines all continue (optional) up the bolted and overhanging wall above.

11. Trigger Finger • lOa *** Mossy jams give way to a clean crack above

*****

Up the beautiful hand and finger crack in a slight dihedral. Good pro to 2.5". 12. Go with the Flow • 5.8+

13. Chicken Ranch Bingo • lOb

****

Start above the grotto, climb a column and traverse left into the white streak. A dirty direct start climbs the crack below the white streak and reguires gear. 14. Ejection Seat • lld

extension to routes 1+2.

**** The

1. Hole in the Wall • lOa *** Jam the splitter handcrack on the right wall of the dihedral. Pass 2 bolts up high.

15. Accessive Force • 12d *** The

2. Three-Fingered Jack • lOb *** A

extension to AC Devil Dog.

finger crack fhat becomes a trident near the top. 3. Snake Bite • llb **** Sguirm up the slot and turn a little roof on very thin locks. 4. Rawhide • lla ***** Oh YEAH! Climb

the perfect splitter past finger and ringlocks to a balancey crux up high.

5. Men's Crisis Center • 12a ** A nice

line that is contrived. The 12a rating holds only if you avoid the cracks to either side of the bolt line. Its a fun 5.11 to just grab what you want while still staying on the bolt line. 6. Table Manners • 5.9 **** A trio of

cracks define this fun dihedral.

*****

So good! Slap and balance and lean up the double aretes of this 65 foot column. It will feel run- out if you are not solid at .this type of climbing. 7. AC Devil Dog • lOd

8. Bandito • 5.8 *** Another fun dihedral with good pro. 9. To Pin or not to Be • lla *** Thin stemming corners. Bring small stoppers. 10. Moss Critique • llb *** More thin edging and stemming with mixed gear and bolts. Often mossy.

extension to Rawhide.

16. Fli9ht Simulator • 12a *** The 17. Premature Ejection • 12c *** The

left extension to routes 9+10.

18. Journey to the Sun • 12a *** The

right extension to routes 9+10.

19. Squealer • llb ***** The extension to route 12. Steep and fun. Use a 70-meter rope or the midway anchor to

lower off. 20. Sidewinder • lld *** Start as for the previous route, but branch right after the 2nd bolt and traverse past bolts to end on the anchors for route 13. Table Manners • 5.9

SIERRA FOOTHILLS • TABLE MOUNTAIN

The Grotto The Welcome Wall The Welcome Wall is the wall you walk past just before the descent into The Grotto.

* Dirty at times. 2. Keebler's Revenge • lla * Also often

1. Welcome Mat • lOb

dirty.

**

3. Swallow This • llc Hard start leads to easier climbing higher up. This climb may have a coating of actual crap on some sections. 4. Wing of Bat • lOb *** Poop of Bat would have also been a fitting name.

**

5. Uncle Remus • lla A junky start leads to steep and better climbing above.

The Grotto The Ort Wall

The Grotto Cave

The Ort Wall sits directly opposite The Columns and remains shady all day. Eight quickdraws are all you need .

The Grotto Cave is right of The Ort Wall. Routes, (not shown) are listed right to left.

1. Misperception Short but fun.

o

**

8. Grotto Monkey o 12a (not shown) The left most route. Four bolts.

lOb **

o 12b ** (not shown) Second route from the left. Four bolts.

9. Sasquatch 2. OrtMan Complex

Short and fun.

3. Clip, Clip, WOW

o

o

lOc **

lOd

*** Save some

juice for the WOW part near the top. 4. Geronimo

o

llb *** Short but pumpy.

5. Color Coded Quickdraws

o

lOb

***

This is the best route on the wall. J"uggy and clean. 6. Sidesaddle

o

5.9 ***

Nice jugs and plenty-o bolts. o 5.9 ** A newish route that shares the Sidesaddle anchor.

7. Cowboy Up

10. High Intensity Discharge

o

12a

*

(not shown) Second route from the right.

*

11. Dwarf Toss o 12a (not shown) The right most route. Two bolts.

The Mid Wall (No topo). Continuing past The Grotto, a 5-minute walk across a talus field leads to The Mid-Wall, a sometimes Poison Oak infested crag. 5 excellent routes exist, 5.lls on the left and 5.12s on the right. The prow is Funny Man • 12a

****

SIERRA FOOTHILLS • CONSUMNES RIVER

Consumnes River Consumnes River

When to go

Its been said that the short cliffs bordering the Consumnes River can teach you everything you need to know to free climb El Capitan (!) That might be a bit of a stretch, but the cliffs do offer everything from thin seams to burly offwidths and everything in between. Perhaps best of all, the river provides endless fun : rocks to jump off of, cool, clear water and even a few deep water solo slab traverses.

Year round, but beware of blazing temperatures and guided crowds in the summer. In the spring beware of treacherous high water when approaching the Gutenberger Wall.

Gear Standard rack to 4" and ten quickdraws. Long slings and four locking carabiners for setting up top ropes.

Approach From highway 50, take exit 44a for Missouri Flat Rd and follow the map below to a turnout near a guardrail. From the middle of the guardrail, head downhill on a good trail for about five minutes to the top of Bucks Bar Dome. Another two minutes down and across the river leads to the base of the Gutenberger Wall.

Placerville

Ravine Rd.

Sacramento 2 miles

..........

Pleasant Valley Rd . 5. 2miles

3 miles

Buck's Bar ;-,. Dome

\ .

,b·'

SIERRA FOOTHILLS • CONSUMNES RIVER

Consumnes River - Overview After hiking down the trail, continue down around the domes right side to access the base of the climbs. The first area you should arrive at is the Dinkum Wall ; you'll notice a splitte: hand and finger crack bisecting the m1ddle of the slabby wall. See the map below for the locations of the other climbs and crags. Approach times (in parentheses) are from the parking lot.

***

1. Dinkum Wall (8 min.) This is the first wall you will encounter upon reaching the Dinkum is the obvious thin crack b1sect1ng the wall. An easy hike around gets you to the top anchors.

****

2. Unconquerable Area (10 min.) This is the little cove packed with nice looking cracks, Beginners Wall is just to the right. Scramble around to the left or right to reach the top anchors.

**

5. Midway Rocks (15 min.) These big boulders are a good place to climb if the main areas are crowded . There are plenty of bolt anchors for top roping many short chimneys, cracks and faces. Jam Gets Onto Fingers • lla ***, a top rope crack that starts wide, turns th!n and ends with face climbing on the ma1n cliff. The two-bolt arete facing the trail is called Squirrely Girl •l2a ** (stick-clip).

**

6. Granite Cove (18 min.) Even further downriver, past some talus hopping is a sma." dome. with some nice cracks and pr1vate sw1mm1ng holes. Around the back, you'll spot a thin crack, Doughnut King, . (llc) and. in the front, facing the r1ver, IS Good Night Gym Boy, (llc) a funky wide hand and fist There are other climbs here as well. Th1s area is seldom visited and never crowded .

***

3. Gutenberger Dome (12 min.) Reaching the desirable multi-pitch climbs of this 350ft. high dome is tricky at any time of the year, involving scrambles sl ippery boulders. Whe:n the IS high in the spring, the r1ver can be t reacherous or even impossible - use good judgement when crossing!

Buck's Bar Rd .

**

4. Ten-Minute Cliff (12 min .) This 35ft. high cliff has a couple w'?rthy climbs including the hard Ten Mmute Crack ***, a 5.12 seam. The thin crack that diagonals across the right end of the cliff is Scorpio, a fun 5.8 lead or top rope.

I

.

.· Midway

Rocks

Frl!F1Wli•

·aJa!d UO JaH!IdS JISSOIJ -
SIERRA FOOTHILLS • CONSUMNES RIVER

Consumnes River - Gutenberger Wall The Gutenberger Wall features fun crack and slab climes, some of which extend to four (short) pitches above a very scenic stretch of the Consumnes Gorge. Crossing the river can be dangerous or simple depending on the height of the water. Scrambling over the very polished boulders is not for everyone, but its not that bad once figured out. There have been some deadly accidents in the sinkholes at the bottom of the pool where the water rushes into tight caverns, so use caution!

***

1. Scud Buster • lOc Easily accessible when the river is low, but tricky to start when the water is up. Fun slab climbing on nice polished rock past five bolts to a lower-off anchor.

**

2. Saddam, Me? • lOb Tricky to start during times of high water. Fun slab moves. The line of bolts immediately to the right is Tanks for the Memories (10c).

***

3. Got Gas? • lOb Even trickier to start when the river is up. More good slabbin'.

****

4. Iraqi Corner • lOc A good lead up the short, black and imposing corner. Small cams and fingerlocks lead steeply to a bolt that protects the move turning the lip. Finish at the Grand Central bolts where you can lower off (hard to hear your partner if the river is running high) Gear to 2".

***

5. Bypass • 5.9 PG The steep, unlikely crack four feet right of Iraqi Corner has some great hidden buckets, and good, but tricky pro. The moves up and over the slab are heady, so make sure you're solid at the grade before trying this one!

***

6. Regular Route • 5.7 PG From the belay above the river, traverse right on a nice rail, passing a couple of oldish pitons. Clip these with long slings, or better yet, belay at the second piton (back up with gear!) to reduce rope drag. Near the end of the rail, angle back left around a two-foot corner and trend left past well spaced bolts to the Grand Central Station. An alternate start climbs the boulder past a bolt (.10 move). Gear to 2' .

7. Trout Fishing • lla **** (2p) Some say the first pitch is more fun without a rope, but you'll be glad you have one when the river is low, or if you want to do the fun second pitch. Cross the river 40 feet downstream of the first bolt and then down climb a mossy corner to the single bolt hanging-belay that marks the start of this unique route. The approach can be dangerous when the water is high in the spring. The first pitch (only) is also a fun deep water solo: falls are a mostly safe 4 to 10 foot plunge into the river, but be wary of hidden ledges, some visible just under the surface.

**

8. Lichen It • 5.8 PG This is the most well-protected route on the Gutenberger headwall. Bring some gear to place between the widely spaced bolts. Either climb the Regular Route or Iraqi Corner to start. It is possible (just) to rap down and over the big overhang to the anchors on Scud Buster with a single 60 meter rope from the top of the first pitch, but be sure to tie the ends together! Bring two ropes to descend from the summit.

*

9. Gutenberger Cracks • 5.7 Start on either 4,5 or 6 and climb the vegetated, low angle crack for a pitch or two. Its possible to rap with a single rope, but much easier with two. This is a nice route when it gets regular traffic that cleans up the dirt and moss. Bring a brush!

*

10. Grizzly Green • lOa R This is a good route that is best approached from The Gutenberger Cracks. Lack of use has allowed the climb to become mossy. Brushing this route would be a real community service. Old bolts.

**

11. Right up the Line • 5.9 PG Another nice and well-bolted line whose approach pitch (The Gutenberger Crack) is sometimes mossy. Gear to 1 inch. 12. Grand Central Belay Station Every route on the upper wall uses this belay station as an anchor or rappel. Routes 4-7 are top rope-able from here (when no one else is waiting, of course!) Take care when pulling your rope, as ropes have been known to get snagged underwater, forever.

SIERRA FOOTHILLS • CONSUMNES RIVER

Consumnes River - Bucks Bar Dome Bucks Bar Dome, while diminutive, is packed with just about any lesson granite can teach. You'll find cracks of all widths, from 5.5 to 5.13, slabs and aretes. What you won't find is a pitch longer than 40 feet. All of the routes here are easily top roped from plentiful bolted anchors: four locking carabiners and two shoulder length slings are all you need. Many of the cracks are also leadable and offer bountiful pro for the fledgling leader.

**

1. Nightmare Wall • lla -12b (tr) These and the following climbs are the first you will encounter after down the trail and skirting the domes right side. Several different slab lines can be climbed - the one directly below the anchor is the hardest.

****

2. Dinkum • 5.9 This is the sweet, 40ft. finger crack that splits the south face. Gear to 2".

**

3. Lap Dancing • lla (tr) From the top of the pedestal on Dinkum, move right onto the thin crack and up tiny knobs on the face. Same anchor as #2. 4. The Pod • 5.7 *** (tr) Chimney up to a funky groove. Many variations exist to the left.

***

5. Areta Franklin • lOd (tr) Top rope the fun arete to the left of "The Gap" in the cliff. The face to the left is 5.11. There are several worthy topropes inside "The Gap", notably "Batman Can't Fly", a 5.11 handcrack, roof and chimney.

***

6. Drastical • 5.9 (tr or bold lead) On the face right of the gap in the wall, climb knobs up to a thin crack that eats stoppers. Its possible to top rope several other faces from this anchor, including the next route, Finger Eater.

**

7. Finger Eater • lld (tr) Yow! Hard liebacking and insecure jamming. 8. The Great Flake (tr access) Scramble into and on top of The Great Flake to gain tr access to climbs 9 - 13. There are routes inside the cleft as well.

**

9. Dans Delight • 5.9 (tr) Find the hidden holds and fist jam. 10. Training Pants • 5.8 Lieback start.

** (tr)

** (tr)

11. Awful Width • 5.9 Right side in or layback.

**

12. Mangler • 5.9 (tr) A burly chimney whose grade will only make sense to old-timers.

**

13. Live and Learn • 5.9 A nice hand and finger crack.

****

14. Fingerprint • 12a (tr) A brilliant arete climb. Take caution in setting the anchors (just below the Unconquerable anchor).

****

15. Unconquerable • 5.8+ (tr) Lieback the wide flake past a roof. If youchimney the upper crack, its a burly 5.10 squeeze.

**

16. Whatchamadigit Crack • 13a (tr) Branch left from Test Piece to a ridiculously thin crack.

****

17. Test Piece • 5.8+ Climb the beautiful, well used finger and hand crack in the sweeping dihedral. Bring gear to 2.5" if you're going to lead it.

**

18. Adhesion • 10c (tr) Steep friction face. Reachy.

**

19. Beginners Cracks. 5.6-5.9 (tr) Many variations after the initial easy crack.

**

20. Popcorn • lla (tr) Climb the knobby face while avoiding the ramp on the right.

**

21. Candy Corn • 5.7 (tr) Three cracks to choose from at the start.

**

22. Chimney Routes • 5.6 - 5.11 (tr) There is a multitude of top rope routes inside the big chimneys that bisect the dome, look for anchors on top and try them out!

SIERRA FOOTHILLS • ROCKLIN QUARRY

Rocklin The Rocklin Quarry (Deer Creek Park) Quarried in 1861 to provide granite for the state capitol building, this scruffy lot behind the local Goodyear Tire store is packed with 15-25 foot high boulders and a handful of nice problems. Some old school highball problems near the back of the quarry are brilliant, but because of lack of traffic are often covered with cobwebs and dirt.

When to go The best conditions are found during the spring, fall and winter. Early summer mornings can be ok on cooler days, and trees provide a bit of shade.

Driving Directions From highway 80, take the exit for Rocklin Rd and follow it for about a mile to Pacific Ave and turn left. The Boulders will come into view on your right after about half a mile. Parking is tricky since all the nearby spots are parking lots for businesses. Farron St (right turn, just past the quarry) has parking quite a ways down.

Pacific Street

!_q,a 'V

r3

Rocklin Quarry (Deer St. Park)

To Auburn Rocklin Rd

,.,11

SIERRA FOOTHILLS • ROCKLIN QUARRY

The Rocklin Quarry Boulders The Rocklin Quarry (aka Deer Creek Park) is a small maze of granite boulders with a handful of classic problems. Below is a sampling of the best problems at the park - there are, of course, many other short problems and variations.

1. Pacific Street Traverse • V6

***

L to R traverse, end on #9.

***

2. Quarry Pinch • VB Low start to a powerful pinch for the left hand.

***

3. Diagonal Crack • V3 Low start to a hard mantle.

**

4 . Inch and a half Crack • V1 Start the clean crack as low as you can.

**

5. Arete • Vl Up the slopers to a flake at the lip.

***

6. Quarry Face • VO Climb straight up using all the features.

7. Quarry Dihedral • V1 Fun moves up the corner.

***

****

8. Nemesis • V3 The splitter, overhang ing, pin-scarred crack. It hurts so good!

***

9. Shothole Arete • V4 Stay on the right side of the arete and go up using a seam for the right hand.

**

10. Undercling Problem • V 4 Start on underclings and go up and right to an edge and the top.

***

11. Children of the Night • V3 Start low hugging the arete and slap up past sidepulls and slopers.

**

12. Hard • V7 Veer right past a sidepull.

***

13. V1 Up the right arete on good holds.

***

14. Shothole Slab • VO Climb the left side of the slab utilizing the shothole scar.

***

15. Deer Creek Slab • V7 Try to go straight up the micro holds in the middle of the slab. Avoid using he shothole scar and arete.

*

16. Dihedral • VO Cl imb the thin crack and dihedral.

***

17. Ridgeback • V2 Climb the ridge on nice rock and positive holds. Start low.

**

18. The Loaf • V1 Start on the "Loaf" and up and left on the slopey arete.

***

19. The Undercling Crack • V2 Climb up the seam and then do a hard move right into the undercling crack.

**

20. Dark Face • VO Climb straight up using all the features.

Q

-- '

' t I

Goodyear Tires I

- - - - - - - - - - - - - ' Pacific Street

***

21. Mind Memo • VS R/X Start low via a hard move to the big edge and then climb up the arete I dihedral. A scary, old-school problem that is often dirty and neglected. Rap with a brush to clean it up.

***

22. Smoke Rise Up • VB R/X Start on 21, but at the big edge, move left avo iding the slab and climb the arete feature to a jug at the lip of the roof and climb the terrifying top-out. This neglected climb is often dirty.

***

23. Grafitti Dihedral • Vl R/X Up the big, often dirty dihdral. This and the following route are excellent top rope climbs when they are clean - give it a brushin9 if its dirty and the next person to climb it will thank you!

***

24. The Crack • VO R/X Climb the crisp crack if its not filled with leaves. Falling is not an option.

First Ascents Mount St. Helena The Bubble Solar Power • Karl Guthrie, 85 West Arete • Kar l Guthr ie, 85 The Ladder • ?? Bubble Boy • Jordy Morgan, 97

The Bear Kidnapped • Jerry Dodrill, Eric Berghorn Jekyll & Hyde • Dodrill, Jim Lundeen, 96 Silverado Squatters • Dodrill, 03 Rampage • Jeff Follett, 95 Beast of Burden • Jerry Dodrill, 96 The Beast • Morgan, Guthrie, 85 Jason + Argonauts • Jason Campbell, 92 Swallow My Pride • Jordy Morgan, 97 Uncle Tom • Jordy Morgan, 92 3-Star Arete • Guthrie, Joe Schwartz 86 Marks Moderate • Mark Howe, 97 Black Hole Sun • Chris Summit, 95 Old and in the Way • Morgan, 97 Bears Choice • Morgan, 97 N.V.P.S • Jason Campbell, 94 Stone Free • Jordy Morgan, 97 Kodiak • Mark Howe, 96 The Bear Crack • Wade Mills, Forest Shute The Bear Arete • Mark Howe, 96 Smash and Grab • Eric Berghorn, 08 Body Snatcher • Jerry Dodrill, 08

The Far Side Shute-Mills • Wade Mills, Forest Shute New Tradition • Eric Sorenson, 02 Saviour Heart • Robin Madgewick, 90 Mystery Hole • Jeff Follett, 93 Eat Your Wheaties • Ken Stanton, 91 Feelin' Your Oats • Armin Fisher, 88 Cereal Killer • Jerry Dodrill, 10 Death to the Right • Ken Stanton, 91 Step to the Left • Robin Madgewick, 91 Something Good • Ken Stanton, 91 Jardinero • Eric Sorenson, 02 The Chief • Follett, Summit, 93 War Party • Follett, Summit, 93 Boneless Chicken Ranch • Madgewick, 90 Seymore Frishberg • Madgewick, 90 Farther • Eric Sorenson, 02 18NY • Ken Stanton, 91 Baby Atlas • Ken Stanton, 91 At Last • Kurt Jensen, Dodrill, 08 Atlas • Madgewick, Stanton, 90 Atlas Shrugged • Stanton, Crawford, 90 Lichen Rash • Ken Stanton, 90

Kimball Canyon Sweet Dreams • Eric Berghorn, 11 Flying Machines • Jonathan Hans, 11 T-33 • Eric Berghorn, 11

Shooting Star • Steve Curtis, 11 Sad Wings of Destiny • Eric Berghor n, 11 Ceiling Zero • Steve Curtis, 11 Pilot Error • Eric Berghorn, 11

Hailstone Rock Hail Fire • Eric Berghorn, 11 Flying Machines • Jonathan Hans, 11 T-33 • Eric Berghorn, 11 Pilot Error • Eric Ber ghorn, 11

Table Scraps Pinnacle All Routes • Bolted by Aaron Rough

Table Rock Spy vs Spy • Aaron Rough, Dave Stallard Big Red Button • Rough, Stallard, 05 Double Top Secret • Stallard, Rough Double Agent • Rough, Stallard I shot JFK • Donie! Drazin Kiss my Kremlin • Donie! Drazin Standard Issue • Stallard, Rough White Flag • Rough, Stallard Aloha Patrol • Rough, Stallard Fist Full of Rubles • Stallard, Rough Defector • Stallard, Rough Warcraft • Rough, Stallard Svetlana • Rough, Stallard Beer Factor • Rough, Stallard Spankterfied • Stallard, Rough Lost Cause • Stallard, Rough Idle Hands • Stallard, Rough Decorator Crab • Rough, Stallard The Moderator • Donie! Drazin Drive By • Donie! Drazin

Fisk Mill Cove All Routes • Jordy Morgan, Marcos Nunez, 01 Sea Biscuit • Marcos Nunez, 01 Swashbuckler • Marcos Nunez, 01 Sea Serpent • Chris Summit, 05

Dry Creek Sea Crag Main Wall Rackless Crack • Mark Howe, 93 Bohemian Bypass • Mark Howe, 93 Pseudo-Bohemian ••• • Mark Howe, 92 Judge Dread • Chris Summit, 99 Jury Duty • J. Campbell + J. Thornburg, 91 Crack of Zorro • Mark Howe, 94 Sport Wall • Mark Howe, 94 Red Slab • Mark Howe, 92 Sucka Fish • Jason Campbell, 92 Sea Cave • Jason + Jim Campbell, 92

Beach Main Rock Torque Jim Thornburg, 88 (tr) Chris Summit, 98 (lead) Stemmer Jim Thornburg, 88 (tr) Chris Summit, 98 (lead) Watkin' a Thin Line Tony Yaniro, 83 (tr) Eric Brand, 84 {lead) Pelicans John Brossard, 88 (tr) Jim Thornburg, 88 (lead) Holy Mackeral • Marcos Nunez, 98 Wet Dreams • Marcos Nunez, Summit, 96 Dream of White Porsches Harrison Dekker, Scott Frye, 87 (tr) Jim Thornburg, 88 (lead) Dream On • Jim Thornburg, 88 Insomnia • Dave Wallach, 96 Mickey$ Beach Arete Jim Thornburg, 96 Kevin Jorgeson, 05 {w/o chipped hold) Naked and Disfigured • Ken Arizza, 95 Mutiny • Ken Arizza, 95 Hot Tuna • Jeff Follett, 96 Moby Dick • Jim Thornburg, 90 Motion in the Ocean • Ken Arizza, 95 Ocean Monster • Chris Summit, 95 Gidget • Jim Thornburg, 88 Sturgeon Scott Frye, 88 (tr) Jim Thornburg, 88 (lead) Jim Thornburg, 09 {w/ broken hold) Scurvy Jim Thornburg, 89 (tr) Ken Arizza, 05 (lead) Courtney • Eric Kohl, 96 Nancy • Jim Thornburg, 87 Squid Viscious Harrison Dekker, 87 (tr) Jim Thornburg, 95 (lead w/direct start) Sex Porpoises Scott Frye, 87 (tr) Jim Thornburg, 88 (lead)

Whalesback Rust Never Sleeps • Jim Thornburg, 88 Out of the Blue • Jim Thornburg, 88

Peeper Rock Peeper • Tony Yaniro, 81 South Face • Tony Yaniro, 81

The Egg Alex Catlin toproped many of these lines in 1987. First lead ascents are as follows: Coffee and Cigarettes • Ken Arizza, 11 Green Eggs and Ham • Ken Arizza, 11 Egg on Your Face • Jim Thornburg, 89 Egg Arete • Jim Thornburg, 89 Egghead • Jim Thornburg, 89 Jungle Work • Alex Catlin, 87 (tr) This is Your Brain on Drugs • Ken Arizza Sign Language • Ken Arizza, 95 Sunny-Side Up • Ken Arizza, 98 Shell Shock • Ken Arizza, 98

Surf Safari Endless Bummer • Scott Frye, 89 Surf Safari • Scott Frye, 9 2

Mt. Diablo Boy Scout Rocks First Ascents: I have no clue.

Please make contact if you know of any likely FAs from back in the day! Claude Fiddler and Patrick Sawyer were active here back in the early 70s and were possibly the first to free climb Ozone, Diagonal Crack, Bolt Route and Crack-A-No-Go. Bettys Beard (now mossed over) was likely climbed first by Peter Ostapowich and friends around 1991.

Pine Canyon Blue Zenith • B.o Johnston, 90 Dry December Bo Johnston, Anthony Bilotti, 90 (tr) Chad Suchowski, 06 (lead) The Unsung War • Chad Suchowski, 05 Red Face • Jim Thornburg, 90 (tr) The Cave Route • ???? Evolution • Chad Suchowski, 05 West Face • ???? Choss Warrior • Jim Thornburg, 90 (tr) Squeal Like a Pig • Boles, John Tuttle, 90 Deliverance • Jim Thornburg, 90 Periodontal Fracture • Suchowski, 05 Yabba Dabba Dudes • Norman Boles, 90 Peregrin • Chad Suchowski, 05 Right Cheek • Chad Suchowski, 05

First Ascents - continued Castle Rock

Castle Rock Falls (cont.)

Platypus Rock

Charlie Solo • Charles Milligan, 91? Greeboo • Morris, Don Simmons, 92 The Oracle • Marc Hill, 92

Howling Iguana • Dave Caunt, B. Morris Moss Man Augie Klein and Marc Hill (tr) Dave Caunt, B. Morris (lead) Plat-a-pussy • Caunt, Morris, 91 Embryo • Dave Caunt, 91 J"elly Fish • Dave Caunt, Morris, 91 AI Hussein • AI Swanson, 92 Playpus Traverse • Dave Caunt 92 Rat-a-pus • Morris, 94

Shady Rock Cotton Mouth • Morris, Don Simmons, 91 Tall Man Simplex • Brad Watson, Caunt, 91 Herpes Simplex • Dave Caunt, 91 Bad Influence • Dave Caunt, 91 Small Man Complex • Caunt, Morris, 91 Dog Breath • Morris, 91 Special Effects • Morris, Simmon,s 91 Slot Nose • Morris, Simmons, 91

Indian Rock J"ail Bird • Morris, Scott Cosgrove, 92 Puckered Starfish • Morris Donkey Dong • Caunt, Morris, 91 Viscious Circles • Morris, 91 Krokus • Caunt, Morris, 91 Dismal Abysmal • Chris Bellizzi, 91 Hocus • Dave Caunt, Brad Watson, 91 Strip Poker • Dave Caunt, 91 Baby Fat • Dave Caunt, 91

Indian Rock Vixen • Morris, Simmons, 91 Cosgrove Face • Scott Cosgrove, 9 2 Pigs Feat • B. Morris, Simmons, 91 Ticks Ripped My Flesh Mike Arechiga, 89 (tr) Caunt, Morris, 91 (lead) Unlucky in Love • Morris, 91 Lucky in Love Steve 'Lucky' Smith, Kim Dao, 88 (tr) Caunt, Morris, 91 (lead) Bitch Goddess Left • Caunt, Morris, 91 Bitch Goddess • Caunt, Morris, 91

Castle Rock Falls Leading to Death • Brad Watson, 92 Putrifaction • Brad Watson, 92 Degeneration • Morris, Simmons, 94 Convulsions • Caunt, Watson, 92 POS Crack • Rick Harlan/Kim Dao, 88 Cleotitus • Dave Caunt, 92 Clamydia • Dave Caunt, 92 Above the Law • Dave Caunt, 92 Anti-Christ • Caunt, Watson, Morris, 92

Last Temptation Lobotomy • Hill, Hernandez, Morris, 94 Death and Taxes • Mike Hernandez, 94 Chimps in a Negligee • Simmons, Morris, 93 Charlie$ Angel • Charles Milligan, 94 Go I Know Not Wither • Mike Hernandez, 94 Arete • Bruce Morris, 94 Live Monkey Brain • Morris, Simmons, 94

Billy Goat Rock Bridwell Bolt Route • Jim Bridwell, 70s Permanent Erection • Dave Caunt Cummed On • Caunt, Morris, 94

The Chew Tooth Chew Tooth - Left • Caunt, Morris, 90 Chew Tooth - Center • Barton, Caunt, Morris Uncle Fred$ Vacation Plan • Dimitri Barton

Underworld Rock Poop Shoot • Brad Watson, 91 Hair Dresser • Bruce Morris, 91 Balance Sheet • Dave Caunt, 91 Underpass • Morris, Simmons, 94 High on Life • Marc Hill, M. Franco, Morris, 91 Black Market Babies • Caunt, Watson, 91 Gestapo Priest • Morris, Caunt, 91 Drug Lord Direct Start • Dave Caunt, 91 Drug Lord • Dave Caunt, 91 Hit Man • Caunt, Morris, 91

California Ridge Cal Five-Eleven A • Dimitri Barton, Caunt, 90 Access Denied • Morris, Caunt, 91 Ayatollah • Dave Caunt, 91 Mullah • Morris, Don Simmons, 94 Case Dismissed • Morris, 91 Guilty as Charged • Marc Hill, 92 Band Aids on Road Rash • Simmons, Morris

Goat Rock First Ascents: I have no clue.

Sonora Area

Jailhouse {cont.)

Jailhouse

Tower of Power • Justen Sjong The Green Mile • Brad Johnson, 09 Fryerplace • Scott Frye, 91 Accomplice • Doug Englekirk, 91 The Pardon • Doug Englekirk, 91 Assassin • Tom Herbert, 91 The Mark • Brad Johnson, 09 J'ailbait • Tom Herbert Skid Row • Tom Herbert, 91 Skitz Row • Justen Sjong, 04 Death Row • Tom Herbert, 91 Dead Man Walking • Justen Sjong, 03 Fugitive • Dave Schultz Tom Herbert, 90 Burning Down The House • Justin Sjong, 03 Public Mayhem • John Scott, 94 Pick Pocket • Todd Graham, 96 Flight Risk • Todd Graham, 96 Common Thug • Peter Croft, 90 Slammer • Troy Corliss, 94 Solitairy Confinement • Troy Corliss, 94 Shackled • Troy Corliss, John Scott, 9()s Conjugal Visit • Aaron Rough, 99 Lobotomy • Troy Corliss, 93 Cuckoos Nest • Dan and Sue McDevitt, 92 Straight J'acket • Todd Graham, 94

Chain Gang • Todd Graham Rhumb Line • Walt Shipley Pulp Friction • Craig McClanahan Violated • Dave Kennedy Early Release • Dave Kennedy Line Up • Dave Kennedy King Pin • Dave Kennedy Supreme Being • Dave Schultz Burrito Supreme • Todd Graham 98 Minimum Security • Todd Graham 98 Insecurity • Troy Corliss, 01 Le Mens Sauce • Nico Favresse Whipping Boy • Dave Schultz, 89 Hard Time • John Scott, 92 Hang Time • John Scott, 92 Hang Man • John Scott, 92 Yoga High • Brad Johnson, 10 Treason • Justen Sjong, 04 Texas Seven • Justen Sjong, 04 Enemy Combatant • Justen Sjong The Warden • Tom Herbert Lock Off • Tom Herbert Lock Down • Tom Herbert, 94 Mistaken Identity • Troy Corliss no rp Scared Straight • Troy Corliss bolt no rp Community Service • Steve Schnieder Lethal Injection • John Scott, Troy Corliss 90 Gas Chamber • Justen Sjong, 04 Pubacca • Brad Johnson, 10 Motherload • Tom Herbert, 95 Iron J'unkie • Dave Schultz, 90 Cuddle Bunnies • Brad Johnson Big House • John Scott, 94 The J'uice • Troy Corliss, 96 Cheddar Bunnies • Brad Johnson Overhaul • Tom Addison, 97 Haul of J'ustice • Tom Addison, 93 Uhaul • Brad Johnson, 12 Strange Ways • Peter Croft, Todd Graham Misdemeanor • John Scott, Troy Corliss, 90 Criming • Vian Charbonneau, 11 Electric Chair • T. Graham, D. Kennedy, 90 Govenor • Todd Graham, 92 Cell Block • Dave Schultz, 89 Bird Man • Dave Schultz, 89 Alcatraz • Tom Herbert, 91 Life Sentence • Dave Schultz, 88. First route route bolted @JH. (Tommy Herbert Redpoint.) Death Sentence • Justen Sjong Soap on a Rope • Dave Schultz, 89 Forced Entry • Justen Sjong Flower Power • Tommy Caldwell, 05

The Grotto Hole in the Wall • Dave Clay, Grant Hiskes, 93 Three-Fingered J'ack • Hiskes, Yager; Bengston, 91 Ejection Seat • John Williams Accessive Force • Tom Addison, 94 Snake Bit • Peter Croft, 92 Rawhide • Grant Hiskes, Mike Barker, 91 Mens Crisis Center • Phil Bones, 93 Table Manners • Hiskes, Barker, 91 AC Devil Dog • Mike Stewart, 91 Flight Simulator • Craig McClanihan, 93 Bandito • Craig Sauniger, 91 To Pin or Not to Be • McClanihan, Bone, 92 J'ourney to Find the Sun • McClanihan, 94 Premature Ejection • Troy Corliss, 95 Moss Critique • Bone, Brian Schmidt, 92 Trigger Finger • Dan and Sue McDevitt, 92 Squealer • Dan and Sue McDevitt, 92 Sidewinder • Grant Hiskes, Ken Yager; 91 Chicken Ranch Bingo • Grant Hiskes, Kirk Hufnagel, Kevin Fosberg Grotto Monkey • Dave Bengston, Rick Cashner Sasquatch • Dave Bengston High Intensity Discharge • Dan Keebler Dwarf Toss • Phil Bone

Best of the Bay - The Ticklist Routes: Mt. St. Helena

Mt. Diablo

The Grotto

0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0

0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0

0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0

New Tradition • 5.7 Shute-Mills • 5.9 The Old Ladder • lOa Silv. Squatters • lOa Mystery Hole • lOa S. Frishberg • lOa Marks Moderate • lOb 3-Star Arete • lOb Aloha Patrol • llb Uncle Tom • lld Jason + Argonauts • 12c

The Sonoma Coast

0 0 0 0 0 0

Pegleg • 5.9 Captain Hook • lOc Mr Salty • 12b Seabiscuit • 12c Judge Dread • 13b Jury Duty • 13c

Mickey$ Beach Area

0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0

Egg Arete • 5.6 Rust Never Sleeps • lOa Egghead • llb Courtney • 12a Sex Porpoises • 12c D. of W. Porsches • 13b Beach Arete • 13b Surf Safari • 13d

Diablo Jam • 5.7 The Cave Route • 5.B Amazing Face • 5.9+ Ozone • lOc F. Known as "Face" • lOc Stegosaurus • lla The Bolt Route • llc Deliverance • 12a

Go W/The Flow • 5.B+ Table Manners • 5.9 Ckn. Ranch Bingo • lOa AC Devil Dog • lOd Rawhide • lla Squealer • llb Ejection Seat • lld Flight Simulator • 12b

Consumnes River Gorge

J'ailhouse

0 0 0 0 0 0

0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0

Test Piece • 5.B+ Unconquerable • 5.B+ Dinkum • 5.9 Iraqi Corner • lOc Trout Fishing • lla Fingerprint • 12a

Castle Rock State Park

0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0

Swiss Cheese • 5.6 The Lieback • 5.7 S. Face of I.R. • 5.B+ Blowing Bubbles • 5.9 The Falls • lOa Mullah • lOb Poop Shoot • lOd Viscious Circles • lOd Donkey Dong • lld Cal Five-Eleven A • lld Clamydia • 12a

Insecurity • 12d Soap on a Rope • 13a Fugitive • 13a Alcatraz • 13b Assassin • 13c Overhaul • 13d The Juice • 14a The Green Mile • 14c

The Berkeley Rocks

0 0 0 0

Bucket Prow • 5.6 Undercling • 5.7 Pinnacle Crack • 5.B Frwl. to Arms • lOb

Boulders: The Nut Tree Boulders

0 0 0 0 0 0

Gimme My 40 • VO Brass Monkey • V2 The Bulge • V3 Boxcar Traverse • V 4 Stoned Dangler • V5 Scotts Traverse • V9

Pudah Creek

0 Hell Awaits • V3 0 Whine Country •

VB

The Sonoma Coast

0 0 0 0 0 0 0

Pelican Arete • VO Yellowfoot • V2 The Wave • V3 Mud, Blood, Beer • V3 Vice Grip • V4 Fort Rossta • V6 Living a Dream • V6

Black Sand Beach

0 Stemple Stem • V2 0 Best of the Bay • V5

Mickey$ Beach Area

0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0

Welcome to R.R. • V2 New Favorite • V3 Power Slab • V5 Don't W. Be Sloppy • V6 Tool User • V6 Little Wing • V7 Orange Buddha • VB Way of the Wah • VB ·

The Berkeley Rocks

0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0

Beginners Crack • VO Watercourse • V2 Pegboard • V2 The Overhang • V2 Bench Wall • V2 Scary Overhang • V3 Scotts Arete • V5 The Bubble • V5 Stoneface Prob. • V7 Nats Traverse • VB Impossible Wall • V9

Rocklin Quarry

0 Nemesis • V3 0 Children /Night •V4

Castle Rock Area

0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0

Mr Magoo • Vl Bowling Bawl • Vl Pyramid Crack • Vl The Swim • V3 THEE Classic • V4 The Tree Route • V4 Bates Arete • V 4 S. Armstrong • V 4 Hueco Wall • V5 Klinghoffer Trav. • V5 Lost Keys Trav. • V6 R. Hand Man • V7 Nature N. Arete • VB Sharma Arete • V9 Eco-Terrorist • VlO

Columbia Boulders

0 0 0 .0 0 0 0 0

Gold Fever • V2 All Amer. Finger • V2 Horse Trail Arete • V3 Front and Center • V4 Try Me • V5 Triple Cracks • V6 Ultimate Trogdor • VB Mind Ovr. Matter • VlO

y Area Rock Climbing Guide

$35.00 ISBN 978-0-9829138-1-9 53500>

e diverse boulders and cliffs spread throughout greater Bay Area provide the local climber with bounty of climbing opportunity. This thoroughly ;earched 7th edition of Bay Area Rock introduces surprising number of new climbs, boulders and top )eS, all within a two hour drive of San Francisco. 9 "780982"913819

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