A TASTE OF NEW YORK
Welcome September 2015
One thing we British do very well is borrow food infuences from around the world to create our own dishes.
From fabulous fruit pies to exciting new ways with homegrown veg, this issue is all about recipes that combine the best of British with a favour, texture or topping you might not expect. Our cover pie, for example, is flled with an aromatic mix of Fig, raspberry & cardamom (page 14), for a Middle Eastern twist. If you’ve grown your own produce this summer, this is the time to pot, preserve or pickle it. Food writer Jane Hornby tells us why she enjoys this late summer ritual, and shares her new recipes (page 33). Want to add some va-va-voom to your veg? Banish memories of bland, watery marrow with our version, roasted in maple syrup and packed with spiced grains (page 30). Finally, if sheer nostalgia is calling, bake a great British biscuit and take the tea-dunking test (page 82)! How long did yours last?
ABOVE Make your own jam, pickles and chutney, page 33 RIGHT Actress Caroline Quentin, who has coeliac disease, tests a range of gluten-free products with our Feature writer Holly, page 128
Bake it better every time – page 133
Gillian Carter, Editor
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Background photograph SAM STOWELL
‘My most reliable Short & sweet pastry’ – from our Food Editor Cassie, page 14
SUBSCRIBE NOW AND RECEIVE A BONUS GIFT! Subscribe this month and we’ll send you a stylish Joseph Joseph Elevate Carousel utensil set, worth £55. Turn to page 94 for more details.
September 2015
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Editor Gillian Carter Deputy editor Elaine Stocks Creative director Elizabeth Galbraith Art director Jonathan Whitelocke PA to Gillian Carter and Alfe Lewis Emma Bales Senior food editor Barney Desmazery Food editor Cassie Best Assistant food editor Miriam Nice Commissioning food editor Jessica Gooch Cookery assistant Chelsie Collins Art editor Rachel Bayly Designer Suzette Scoble Picture editor Gabby Harrington Chief sub-editor Art Young Senior sub-editor Fiona Forman Feature writer Holly Brooke-Smith TV editor Kathryn Custance TV recipes Petra Jackson Speciality food consultant Henrietta Green Nutritional therapist Kerry Torrens Wine editor Sarah Jane Evans MW Thanks to Helen BarkerBenfeld, Sara Buenfeld, Katy Gilhooly, Yazmin Godfrey, Dom Martin, Tracy Muller-King, Imogen Rose, Todd Slaughter, Rebecca Studd Publishing director Simon Carrington Senior marketing and events executive Chris Pearce Reader offer manager Liza Evans liza.evans@ immediate.co.uk Subscriptions director Jess Burney Senior direct marketing manager Emma Shooter Subscriptions marketing manager Lynn Swarbrick Digital marketing manager Phil Byles Advertising director Jason Elson Group head Display Catherine Nicolson Senior Display sales executive Rosie Bee Display sales executive Abigail Snelling Classifed sales executive Tim Bennett Regional agency sales Nicola Rearden Inserts Harry Rowland
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Satisfying meat-free supper: Lighter Aubergine Parmigiana
Contents September 2015 On our cover this month
In season 26 33 39
Stars of the month Seasonal vegetables get a modern makeover in these exciting recipes Let’s preserve more… The joys of homemade jam, pickles and chutney Seasonal & local Chefs’ notebook special with competitors from the new series of BBC Two’s Great British Menu
Baking extra 12 97
Cover story Make a beautiful fruit pie Great British Bake Off special New recipes from Luis Troyano, one of last year’s fnalists, and Frances Quinn, the 2013 winner
General Show enquiries Call 020 3405 4286
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Everyday
44 Make it tonight Easy midweek meals, ready in 20 minutes or less – all costed 49 Satisfying soups Four simple recipes 52 Canny Cook Liven up your lunchbox with fresh ideas for all the family
Weekend
66 Dinner at dusk Invite friends over for this stylish barbecue from BBC chef James Martin 72 Cake Club Spiced fg, coffee & hazelnut cake 74 Lebanese supper for two Discover how to cook authentic meze dishes 80 The great British biscuit tin Fun twists on classic biscuit favourites 86 A winning menu Crowd-pleasing curried lamb with Indian oven chips
September 2015
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At home with Oliver Peyton
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82
Authentic Lebanese meze, a new way to entertain
Eat well
Every month
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8 11 21 94 111 138 144 145
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122 125 128
Eat well all week Deliciously easy meals to keep you on track Understanding food labels How to make smarter choices when shopping Make it healthier Lighter Aubergine Parmigiana Three new summer slaws Great taste & no gluten! Actress Caroline Quentin puts gluten-free products on test
Good reads
56 Inside The Kitchen Cabinet Behind the scenes at the popular BBC Radio 4 panel show 59 Whatever happened to lunch? A brief history of our midday meal 106 My kitchen Restaurateur Oliver Peyton 146 The food chain Prue Leith and Valentine Warner
Cook school
130 Our team share tips and techniques 133 Cake Clinic The golden rules of baking 134 Masterclass Learn to make sourdough
September 2015
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Enjoy more Good Food Find us online, on social media and at our shows Recipe index and menu planner This month we’re hoping for… An Indian summer What’s cooking News, reviews and buys BBC Good Food subscriber offers In next month’s issue Sneak preview Classified advertisements From your kitchen Your letters and photos Reader recipe Katie’s allotment cake
Just for you
Bake a batch of biscuits
READER OFFERS
Cooks Professional casserole set p112 Huge discount
Whizz up healthier juices and smoothies p119 From just £44.99
Book an unforgettable holiday p127 From £1,099pp
Multi-function electric pressure cooker p137 Save £50
Make our cover recipes – p12 Cover photograph SAM STOWELL Recipes CASSIE BEST Food styling SARAH COOK Styling LUIS PERAL
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LIVE SHOWS l ONLINE l DIGITAL l MOBILE Whether you’re at home or on the move, there’s so many ways to enjoy Good Food
BAKE IT BETTER
RECIPES ON THE GO Your favourite food magazine is just a few clicks away – with everything you love from Good Food, plus helpful features like bookmarking your top recipes, and landscape view to make reading and following recipes even easier. Every issue also has exclusive step-by-step videos from our cookery team, not available anywhere else. Visit the Apple App Store to download the app today.
The new edition of Bakes & Cakes is in store now. We’ve created a collection of more than 100 of Good Food’s best recipes, from showstoppers and cookies to breakfast breads and proper pies. Pick up your copy for just £3.80. Why not ask your newsagent to order a copy for you – or download the digital edition from the Apple App Store.
TWO WAYS TO VIEW
From top: Michel Roux Jr, Paul Hollywood and Mary Berry, the Hairy Bikers
MAGAZINE
FRESH START
A GREAT DAY OUT No student should begin the new term without taking a lesson or two from bbcgoodfood.com. Find your perfect portable lunch kit with our reviews, then fll your lunchbox with our deliciously satisfying healthy bites. If you’re leaving for university, our survival guides for eating, cooking and stocking a student kitchen will set you up for the year ahead.
Our promise to you We’ll bring you the best recipes you’ll fnd anywhere to cook at home. l You can trust us – every recipe in the magazine, including those from top chefs or cookery books, is tested and retested until we’re confident it will work first time for you at home. Find out more on page 8. l We know that many of you want to cook healthy meals for you and your family, so we offer new l
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Live entertainment and great food – enjoy both at the BBC Good Food Shows in Glasgow, London and Birmingham this November. Get your family and friends together for a delicious, buzzy day out, packed with tasting, shopping and your favourite chefs cooking seasonal dishes live on stage. Plus, get up close to your culinary heroes in book-signing sessions, live interviews and much more. Tickets are now on sale! Book before 29 September to save 25%, quote GFR25. To fnd out more, visit bbcgoodfoodshow.com or turn to page 60.
ways to eat well, plus vital nutritional information. l We’ll show you how to cook with seasonal produce, plus you’ll discover new ingredients and favours. l We’re realistic about budgets – you’ll find costs per serving on many dishes. l Above all, whatever kind of cook you are, we promise you’ll fnd plenty to inspire and excite you at BBC Good Food.
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Exclusive video
Baking chocolate chip cookies
Join the conversation Catch up with fellow cooks, comment on our recipes, and discover what we’re up to in the Good Food Test Kitchen. Visit bbcgoodfood.com for advice on healthy eating and special diets, online conversion charts and thousands more triple-tested recipes.
You can also follow us on facebook.com/bbcgoodfood, Instagram and Twitter @bbcgoodfood
September 2015
This month’s
Get the best from our recipes Every month, we provide all the information you need to help you choose which recipes to cook All the recipes in Good Food magazine are tested thoroughly before publication, so they’ll work frst time for you at home. Most are developed in our Test Kitchen by our cookery team, with additional recipes from food writers, TV chefs or cookery books. However, no matter who writes the original recipe, each one is tested rigorously before being included in
Be inspired! Some of our favourite new recipes from this issue Senior food editor Barney Desmazery in our Test Kitchen
the magazine. Your time and money are precious, so we want to guarantee you a great result every time.
Late summer supper menu for 4
Developing and testing Good Food recipes • We aim to make recipes practical, keeping ingredients lists to a minimum and avoiding lengthy preparation. • We help you to avoid waste by using full packs, cans and jars where possible. When it’s not possible, we try to include suggestions for leftovers. • We cost many of our Everyday dishes to help you budget effciently. • We generally use easily available ingredients, and seasonal fruit and vegetables. • Where possible, we create and test all our recipes using humanely reared meats, free-range
Helping you to eat well All our recipes are analysed by a nutritional therapist on a per-serving basis. Each recipe analysis includes listed ingredients only, excluding optional extras such as seasoning and serving suggestions. Simple changes can make a recipe healthier – such as removing chicken skin after cooking, or using a low-salt stock. If you serve the portion size suggested, you can work out how each recipe fts into your day-to-day diet by comparing the fgures with the Reference Intake (RI). This has replaced Guideline Daily Amounts (GDAs) on food labels and packaging. Unlike the GDAs, where fgures existed for men, women and children, there is now only one set of RI fgures – these are effectively the GDA fgures for an average adult female.
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chickens and eggs, and sustainably sourced fsh. • We use unrefned sugars (such as golden caster sugar), which contain natural molasses, unless we want icing to look white. • Where egg size is important, you’ll fnd it stated in the recipe. • We recommend using standard level measuring spoons, and that you never mix metric and imperial measures. Please note that recipes created for Advertisement features are checked by our cookery team but not tested in the Good Food Test Kitchen.
Reference Intake (RI) The RIs are a guide to the amount of energy (kilocalories), fat, saturated fat, carbohydrate, sugar, protein and salt that an adult should consume each day: Energy 2,000 kcals, Protein 50g, Carbohydrates 260g, Sugar 90g, Fat 70g, Saturates 20g, Salt 6g. The RIs for fat, saturated fat, sugar and salt are maximum daily amounts.
What our recipe symbols mean EASY Simple recipes that everyone can make, even beginners. A LITTLE EFFORT Requiring a little more skill – such as making pastry. MORE OF A CHALLENGE Recipes aimed at more experienced cooks, who cook for pleasure and like a challenge. Suitable for vegetarians But always check labels on ingredients such as cheese, pesto and curry sauces, to ensure they are suitable. Not suitable for freezing Suitable for freezing Unless otherwise stated, freeze for up to three months. Defrost thoroughly and heat until piping hot.
Watermelon & orange blossom lemonade p78
Lighter Aubergine Parmigiana p122
Crunchy red cabbage slaw p125
Bramley & blackberry pie p14
Understanding our healthy symbols LOW FAT 12g or less per serving GOOD 4 YOU Low in saturated fat, with
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5g or less per serving; low in salt, with 1.5g or less; and low in sugar, with 15g or less. HEART HEALTHY Low in saturated fat, with 5g or less per serving; low in salt, with 1.5g or less; and high in omega-3. LOW CAL 500 calories or less per main course; 150 calories or less for a dessert. 2 OF 5 A DAY The number of portions of fruit and/or veg contained in a serving. CALCIUM
Weekend projects Enjoy cooking when you’ve got a bit more time
FOLATE FIBRE VIT C IRON
Indicating recipes that are good sources of vitamins or nutrients. GLUTEN FREE This indicates a recipe that is free from gluten, but excludes any serving suggestions. For more information on gluten-free cooking, visit coeliac.org.uk. • We regret that we are unable to answer medical/nutritional queries. OMEGA-3
• For thousands more of our tested recipes, plus ‘how to’ cookery videos and healthy eating advice from the experts, visit bbcgoodfood.com
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Sourdough bread p134
Cinnamon-scented plum jam p34
Double chocolate shortbread fngers p84
Dill pickled cucumbers p36
September 2015
recipes and menus RECIPE KEY
Healthy option
Low fat
Gluten free
Suitable for freezing
30 Salads, soups, drinks, breakfasts & sides Afternoon pick-me-up smoothie 53 Beetroot soup with feta, radish & croutons 50 Caulifower ‘couscous’ 114 Charred spring onions 68 Cheese, ham & grape kebabs 52 Choc-orange energy boosters 54 Courgette & tahini dip 78 Crunchy red cabbage slaw 125 Cucumber & mint relish 90 Easy creamy coleslaw 125 Foil-wrapped baby potatoes 68 Grilled corn with chilli mayonnaise, coriander & feta 30 Herby corn off the cobs in brown butter sauce 68 Indian oven chips 88 Nutty cinnamon & yogurt dipper 52 Pear, nut & blackberry bircher 53 Roasted sweet potato & carrot soup 50 Rocket & green bean salad 122 Spicy chilli bean soup 50 Spicy mango citrus slaw 125 Sunshine Cobb salad 53 Tomato kachumber 90 Watermelon & orange blossom lemonade 78 Za’atar croutons 78
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68
recipes
84 Meat Barbecued fllet of beef with mustardy soured cream sauce 68 Beef & bacon meatloaf 46 Curried pulled lamb 88 Ham & tarragon pot pie 45 Kale pesto pasta with crispy prosciutto 116 Lamb kofta stew with caulifower & chickpeas 76 Philly-style cheese dogs 44 Spicy merguez & couscous pot 54
Poultry Cheat’s chicken ramen 50 Cheat’s katsu curry 46 Chicken & date tagine 114 Turkey, bacon & avo mini bagels 54
Fish & seafood Chilli & lime squid salad 68 Prawn & brown rice jambalaya 114 Prawn & rice noodle stir-fry 45 Smoked haddock & sweetcorn chowder 44 Spaghetti & tuna balls 45 Thai salmon skewers with edamame & quinoa 117
Pickles & preserves Cinnamon-scented plum jam 34 Dill pickled cucumbers 36 Jane’s green tomato chutney 34 Pickled beetroot 36 Pickled cabbage 36 Pickled carrots with garlic & cumin 36 Pickled green beans 36 Pickled radishes with ginger & chilli 36 Spiced pickled shallots 36
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September 2015
78 brand-new
68 Vegetarian mains
Baking & desserts
Aubergine salad 78 Beetroot soup with feta, radish & croutons 50 Butternut squash pilaf 44 Halloumi with tomatoes & pomegranate molasses 76 Hot & sour aubergine 30 Lighter Aubergine Parmigiana 122 Loaded naans 46 Maple-roasted marrow on cavolo nero salad 30 Roasted beetroot with za’atar, chickpeas & harissa yogurt 30 Roast carrot & feta salad with tahini dressing 114 Roasted sweet potato & carrot soup 50 Spicy chilli bean soup 50
On the cover Bramley & blackberry pie 14 Chargrilled pineapple colada 70 Coconut Nice 84 Coffee shot cup cakes 104 Courgette & feta muffns 54 Double chocolate shortbread fngers 84 On the cover Fig, raspberry & cardamom pie 14 Jammy thumbprint amaretti 101 Katie’s allotment cake 145 Lemon sherbet jammy dodgers 84 Malted milk tiffn 103 On the cover Plum & marzipan pie 17 Raspberry, pistachio & white chocolate tart 98 Spiced fg, coffee & hazelnut cake 72 Sourdough bread 134 Sticky toffee fg rolls 82 Strawberry & cream roly-polys 82 Very berry loaf cake 98
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This month we’re hoping for…
An Indian summer Capture the colours and heat of sultry days with Holly Brooke-Smith’s buys Sea breeze painted parasol (2.7m tall and 2m diameter), £270, indiangardencompany.com Small copper and glass terrarium, £28, oliverbonas.com
Copper candle stick, £32, atnumber67.co.uk The base is 14.6 x 5cm
Selection of cotton napkins, £6-8 each, anthropologie.eu Elephant Parade mug, £13.50, berryred.co.uk
Enamel raspberry tray (30cm diameter), £14.95, annabeljames.co.uk
Hand-painted stainless-steel Mandala party tiffn tin (21 x 26cm), £66.65, titaniatents.com
Copper wire fruit bowl (28 x 12cm), £17, tch.net
Low hand-painted Bajot round table (65 x 15cm), £44, boutiquecamping.com
Pure herbal tea collection by Kandula (includes Vanilla Chai Rooibos, Chamomile Rose and Mint), £18, notonthehighstreet.com
Bone china tea cup and saucer, fnished with 18-carat gold, £80, in-spaces.com
Linen-cotton mix Wigwam hot pink cushion cover (45 x 45cm), £39, curio-curio.myshopify.com
September 2015
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Nice as Crisp, buttery pastry, a fruity flling and a beautifully decorated lid – make your pies look as good as they taste Recipes CASSIE BEST Photographs SAM STOWELL
Br am ley
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pie
&b lack berry pie bbcgoodfood.com
September 2015
Cover story
Fi g, ra sp be rry
September 2015
&c ard amo m
pie
ie Plum & marzipan p
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With so much glorious fruit around, there’s no better time to create your perfect fruit pie. Use my fail-safe pastry for the crust, then choose one of my three new flling ideas. I’ve given options for making individual, medium or large pies. To create the wow factor, spend a little time crafting a pretty lid (page 17). Or keep it simple and just decorate the edge – turn to page 18 for ideas.
FIRST, MAKE YOUR PASTRY Short & sweet pastry Buttery and crumbly, with just enough sweetness, this is my most reliable sweet shortcrust pastry recipe. Tear it out and stick it on your fridge – it’ll become your new go-to as well. EASY
MAKES enough for 1 large pie, about 25cm/10in (serves 6-8), 2 medium pies, about 18cm/7in (each serves 3-4) or 4 individual pies, about 10cm/4in PREP 20 mins NO COOK
225g/8oz cold unsalted butter, chopped into small pieces 350g/12oz plain four 50g/2oz icing sugar 1 large egg yolk (save the white for brushing the pastry)
1 Put the butter and four in a food processor with 1/4 tsp salt and blend until the mixture resembles damp breadcrumbs. Or do this by rubbing the butter and four together in a big bowl with your fngertips. Add the sugar and briefy whizz again or stir to combine. 2 Whisk the egg yolk with 2 tbsp cold water, and drizzle over the four mixture. Use the pulse button to blend the mixture once more, keep going until it starts to form larger clumps. If the mixture seems too dry, add a little more water a tsp or 2 at a time, but no more than 3 tsp in total. 3 Tip out onto a work surface and briefy knead the dough to bring it together into a smooth ball. Avoid overworking or it will become tough. Flatten the dough into a puck shape and wrap well in cling flm. Chill for at least 30 mins, or for up to 2 days, or freeze for 2 months. PER SERVING (8) energy 395 kcals • fat 24g • saturates 5g • carbs 37g • sugars 7g • fibre 2g • protein 5g • salt 0.2g
Avoid the dreaded soggy bottom n Use a metal or enamel pie plate, tin or a cake
tin if your pie has a pastry base. n Make sure the baking sheet is hot when the pie goes in the oven. n Scatter ground almonds or polenta over the base to soak up any extra juice from the fruit.
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Bramley & blackberry pie Finding a hedgerow of blackberries shouldn’t be too tricky at this time of year – go armed with a pair of gloves and avoid picking berries below knee height (where the dogs can reach them) or near busy roads. It’s important to use cooking apples such as Bramleys here, as they will soften in the steam of the pie, meaning there’s no need to simmer them beforehand. 1 OF 5 A LITTLE EFFORT A DAY
MAKES 1 large pie, about 25cm/10in (serves 6-8), 2 medium pies, about 18cm/7in each (each serves 3-4) or 4 individual pies, about 10cm/4in each PREP 30 mins plus macerating and chilling COOK 25-45 mins, depending on the size of your pie
900g/2lb Bramley apples (about 4) peeled, cored, quartered and thinly sliced 140g/5oz golden caster sugar, plus extra for sprinkling 1 x batch Short & sweet pastry (see recipe, left), chilled 1 tbsp fne polenta or ground almonds 1 tbsp cornfour or plain four, plus extra for dusting 11/2 tsp ground cinnamon 200g/7oz blackberries, halved if very large egg white, for brushing (reserved from making the pastry) cream or ice cream, to serve
Fig, raspberry & cardamom pie Here’s a pie filling you might not have tried before – sweet, juicy figs and raspberries are the perfect match for Middle-Eastern flavours like rosewater and cardamom. OF 5 A LITTLE EFFORT 2 A DAY FIBRE
MAKES 1 large pie, about 25cm/10in (serves 6-8), 2 medium pies, about 18cm/7in each (each serves 3-4) or 4 individual pies, about 10cm/4in each PREP 30 mins plus chilling COOK 25-45 mins, depending on the size of your pie
10-12 large fgs, quartered 400g/14oz raspberries 50g/2oz golden caster sugar, plus extra for sprinkling 1 tbsp cornfour 8 cardamom pods 1 /4 tsp rosewater 1 x batch Short & sweet pastry (see recipe left), chilled 1 tbsp fne polenta or ground almonds egg white, for brushing (reserved from making the pastry) cream, crème fraîche, natural yogurt or soured cream, to serve
1 Put the fgs, raspberries, sugar and cornfour in a large bowl and gently toss together, being careful not to break up the raspberries, until the fruit is well coated. Put the cardamom in a mortar and crack the pods with a pestle.
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1 Put the apples and half the sugar in a large bowl, then stir together until the apples are well coated. Set aside for 30 mins to macerate. 2 Remove the pastry dough from the fridge and divide into 2 pieces, one slightly larger than the other. Re-wrap the smaller piece of dough and set aside. Divide the larger piece of dough into the number of pies you’d like to make, or leave whole for a large one. On a lightly foured surface, roll out the dough to the thickness of a 50p piece, or until large enough to line the base of your pie plate or tin, with a little pastry overhanging. Roll the dough over your rolling pin, lift onto your plate or tins, then press it well into the corners. Scatter the polenta or almonds over the base. 3 Drain any juice from the apples, then toss through the remaining sugar, cornfour and cinnamon. Layer the apples and blackberries in the lined dish, creating a dome effect in the centre. Heat oven to 190C/170C fan/gas 5 and place a baking sheet on the middle shelf. 4 Now choose how you’d like to top the pie (see The upper crustp17). Once covered, whisk the reserved egg white and brush over the pastry. Scatter with extra sugar, then put the pie on the baking sheet. Bake for 25-30 mins for mini pies, 35-40 mins for medium pies, or 45 mins for a large pie, until the pastry is golden and crisp and the juices are bubbling. Cool for 10 mins before serving with cream or ice cream. PER SERVING (8) energy 543 kcals • fat 25g • saturates 15g • carbs 70g • sugars 36g • fibre 5g • protein 6g • salt 0.2g
Remove the seeds from their pods and place them back in the mortar, discarding the pods. Crush the seeds then add to the fruit, along with the rosewater. Set aside for 15 mins. 2 Remove the dough from the fridge and divide into 2 pieces, one slightly larger than the other. Re-wrap the smaller piece and set aside. Divide the larger piece of dough into the number of pies you’d like to make, or leave whole for a large one. On a lightly foured surface, roll out the dough to the thickness of a 50p piece, or until large enough to line the base of your pie plate or tin, with a little pastry overhanging. Roll the dough over your rolling pin, lift into your plate or tins, and press it well into the corners. Scatter the polenta or almonds over and spoon in the flling. Heat oven to 190C/170C fan/gas 5 and place a baking sheet on the middle shelf. 3 Now choose how you’d like to top the pie (see The upper crust, p17). Once covered, whisk the reserved egg white and brush over the pastry. Scatter with a little extra sugar, then place the pie on the baking sheet and bake for 45 mins for a large pie, 35-40 mins for medium pies or 25-30 mins for mini pies, until the pastry is golden and crisp and the juices are bubbling. Cool for 10 mins before serving with cream, crème fraîche, natural yogurt or soured cream. PER SERVING (8) energy 523 kcals • fat 25g • saturates 15g • carbs 63g • sugars 30g • fibre 6g • protein 7g • salt 0.2g
September 2015
Cover story
Traditional plum pie gets a makeover with hints of sweet, nutty marzipan
ie Plum & marzipan p
Cover story
The upper crust
Plum & marzipan pie
1 OF 5 A LITTLE EFFORT A DAY
STAMPED DESIGN Roll out the pastry on a well-foured sheet of baking parchment . Use a small biscuit cutter to stamp out shapes (we’ve used a heart cutter for our Fig, raspberry & cardamom pie, and circles here, but diamonds or fower shapes look pretty too). Brush the pie edge with egg, then slide the pastry lid on top. Trim the edge with scissors and decorate the rim as you like (see p18).
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LATTICE Use a futed pasta or pastry wheel cutter for a wiggly edge or stick to straight edged strips – and follow the steps below. 1
3
2
4
PER SERVING (8) energy 618 kcals • fat 28g • saturates 15g • carbs 80g • sugars 47g • fibre 4g • protein 8g • salt 0.2g
September 2015
1kg/2lb 4oz plums (Victoria or Excalibar plums are delicious if you can fnd them), halved, stoned, then halved again 100g/4oz golden caster sugar, plus extra for sprinkling 2 tsp cornfour 1 x batch Short & sweet pastry (see p14) 1 tbsp ground almonds or fne polenta 1 tsp almond extract 200g/7oz marzipan, chopped into 1.5cm cubes egg white, for brushing (reserved from making the pastry) cream or ice cream, to serve
1 Tip the plums, sugar and cornfour into a large pan, then toss to coat. Simmer for 3-5 mins, stirring now and then, until the plums have just begun to soften. Tip them into a sieve suspended over a large bowl, leave for 30 mins-1 hr, stirring every 10 mins, until the juice has all collected in the bowl. 2 Remove the dough from the fridge and divide into 2 pieces, one slightly larger than the other. Re-wrap the smaller piece of dough and set aside. Divide the larger piece of dough into the number of pies you’d like to make, or leave whole for a large one. On a lightly foured surface, roll out the dough to the thickness of a 50p piece, or until large enough to line the base of your pie plate or tin, with a little pastry overhanging. Roll the dough over your rolling pin, lift into the plate or tin and press it well into the corners. Scatter the almonds or polenta over the base. 3 Stir 2 tbsp of the strained plum juice and the almond extract into the plums. Spoon the flling into the pie dish, dotting the marzipan between the layers of plums as you go. Heat oven to 190C/170C fan/gas 5 and place a baking sheet on the middle shelf. 4 Choose how you’d like to top the pie (see right). Once covered, whisk the reserved egg white and brush over the pastry. Scatter with a little extra sugar, then place on the baking sheet and bake for 45 mins for a large pie, 35-40 mins for medium pies or 25-30 mins for mini pies, until golden and bubbling. Cool for 10 mins before serving with cream or ice cream.
PATCHWORK Roll out the pastry, then stamp out your chosen shape, or simply cut the pastry into odd-shaped pieces. Cover the top of the pie with the pieces of pastry, leaving gaps for the fruit to bubble through. We used a fower and leaf cutter for the pie below, adding balls of pastry to the centre of each fower and creating veins on the leaves with a small knife. l
MAKES 1 large pie, about 25cm/10in (serves 6-8), 2 medium pies, about 18cm/7in each (serves 3-4) or 4 individual pies, about 10cm/4in each PREP 30 mins plus chilling and cooling COOK 30-50 mins, depending on the size of your pie
Leave a little of the pastry base overhanging, and brush the edges with beaten egg before adding the top
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For this pie filling, I like to simmer the fruit briefly before baking it in the pie to extract the juice. Once sieved, I serve the juice on the side – this stops the base from going soggy.
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1 Arrange the pastry strips on top of your pie, with space between each one. Fold back alternate strips from the centre, then lay a strip across the middle, near the folds. 2 Flip the folded strips back to cover the middle pastry strip. 3 Fold back the strips that are woven under the middle piece. 4 Lay another strip across the middle, and fip alternate strips back again. Repeat until you have a woven pattern.
MAKE IT PRETTY n Pile the fruit into the centre of the pie – a domed pie looks more professional. n Whisk leftover egg white from making the pastry with a fork until frothy and use this to glaze the pie. If you want the pie to have a nice golden colour, whisk in a little caster sugar too.
TURN OVER FOR MORE IDEAS…
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Cover story
Fancy edges An easy way to add pizazz to your pie is to decorate the edge
Squeeze the pastry edge around the top of your index fnger, using your thumb and other index fnger. Work your way along the pastry edge to give a professionally futed fnish.
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Plait together three thin strips of pastry and place around the edge. This can be fddly, so do it in four or fve sections and then join them up on the pie.
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Create a classic look by pressing down on the top sheet of pastry with a fork.
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Press the back of a teaspoon into the pastry to create depressions.
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Every lovingly made fruit pie deserves a dairy accompaniment – go to town with thick Jersey or clotted cream. I like two to choose from – I usually go for a ball of ice cream with hot custard on the side. What’s your favourite? Join in the dairy debate and show us your pie love on Instagram or Twitter with the hashtag #GFPerfectPie
Food styling SARAH COOK | Styling LUIS PERAL
THE GREAT DAIRY DEBATE…
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Use stamped out leaves for a pretty autumnal design.
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Sprinkle the edge with granulated sugar to add sparkle once baked.
September 2015
yesterDAY’S
G E T W R A P P IN G
takeout treat
toDAY’S tandoori wrap
OUR SUPER SOFT WRAPS HOLD MORE OF THE STUFF YOU LIKE
What’s cooking
People, places, good buys and reviews from the Good Food team
BO
OR
S OK F
BOOK OF THE MONTH l
SUPPORT OUR BAKERS Artisan bakeries across the UK will open their doors to the public from 28 Sep-3 Oct, showcasing the skills and techniques they use every day. Visit craftbakersweek.co.uk to find your nearest open bakery, and to vote for the nationÕs Most Loved Bakery. Want to try making your own sourdough? See page 134 for our step-by-step recipe.
•C O O K S•
Coast by Rachel Allen (£25, Harper Collins), out in September TV chef Rachel Allen grew up in Dublin and studied at Ballymaloe Cookery School, where she now teaches. She frequently appears on BBC’s Saturday Kitchen, and has written several bestselling cookbooks. She lives in Cork with her husband, Isaac – son of Ballymaloe founder Darina Allen – and their three children. Coast is her most personal book to date – Rachel explores her roots, taking you on a food journey along the west coast of Ireland up to the remote headlands of Donegal. Along the way, she samples the local produce – from honey and cheese to gins and whiskies – which inspire this collection of recipes. These include seafood dishes, rich stews such as stout-braised beef cheeks with cavalo nero, fabulous desserts, such as her retro Irish cream liqueur baked cheesecake, and preserves, such as Bacon & whiskey jam. What makes this book really special, though, is its style; part cookbook, part travel journal: Rachel shares the infuences behind the food she creates and tells the stories she learns from the fshermen and farmers she meets. With more than 100 recipes, this is a satisfyingly useful cookbook with plenty of hearty dishes for the colder months and a helping of Irish charm.
• BBC Good Food readers can buy this month’s book at a discount, plus you’ll also receive a free bookmark. Simply call 01326 569444, p&p is free. Or buy online at sparkledirect.com/goodfood
September 2015
TAKE A COOKERY COURSE Seaweed Foraging & Cookery Course, Fat Hen The Wild Cookery School (01736 810156, fathen.org) This course aims to show you how to fnd and use the many edible seaweeds along Britain’s shoreline. The frst part of the day was spent on the beach with teacher and ecologist Caroline Davey, who showed us how to identify different seaweeds. We learned how to harvest sustainably (snip rather than pull) and nibbled as we went. In an hour, we’d found 10 seaweeds for lunch. Preparing and eating the plants was an eye-opener. We started with kelp & miso soup, and black pudding topped with laverbread. Then we assembled sushi with fakes of dried laver. The highlight was our main course: kelp-wrapped hake with a pepper dulse sauce, gnocchi from foraged greens, and a Chinese-style side salad of mixed seaweeds. We fnished with a panna cotta, set with foraged Cornish carrageen. Cost £95, 9.30-4pm, including three-course lunch with wine, and seaweed to take home. Verdict Discovering the abundance of seaweed at our fngertips was impressive enough. Eating them, and seeing the potential for dishes, makes this an excellent introduction to a nutritious food on our doorstep. Clare Hargreaves
bbcgoodfood.com
TRENDSPOTTER Move over, ketchup. Beerbased condiments are this autumn’s relish of choice. Traditionally used to add depth to stews or barbecue glazes, beer is taking centre stage as the main ingredient in several sauces and condiments right now. And no wonder – the combination of tangy hops and earthy malted barley pairs well with meats and cheese. Some we’ve tried: • The new dipping sauce from Guinness (£1.49, Tesco) – rich and slightly sharp, it’s particularly good with steak. • M&S Brewer’s Paste (£2), for adding to marinades or casseroles. Similar to a thick Worcestershire sauce, it takes cheese on toast to a new level!
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A TASTE OF THE GOOD LIFE Singer Cerys Matthews (right), BBC Radio 6 broadcaster and keen home baker, hosts a festival this month to celebrate the good life. As well as live music, chefs and cooks will host demos – look out for Thomasina Miers, Valentine Warner and Deliciously Ella. You’ll also fnd campfre cookery displays, coffee-making courses, a craft beer tent and sausage-making sessions. The Good Life Experience, 18-20 September, Hawarden Estate, Flintshire. Tickets from £45, visit thegoodlifeexperience.co.uk.
DRINK NOTES Sarah Jane Evans chooses her top bottles this month Wine Atlas Catarratto 2014, Sicily, Italy, 12.5%, £4.97, Asda Asda’s Wine BAG Atlas series A has fun period BARGAIN labels and a range of styles at very friendly prices. This Italian white has notes of lime and fresh herbs – perfect for salads and fsh. Also try the bold Bobal (£4.97) and Marzemino (£5.97) reds.
Kalander Red 2013, Swartland, South Africa, £7.99, Morrisons Winemaker Adi Badenhorst, has blended Shiraz, Mourvèdre and Cinsault grapes to produce this bold red with smoky aromas and ripe red cherry fruit. This is the wine for barbecues, roasted veg, and hard cheese. Also try the Kalander white (a blend of four varieties), for the same price.
Lamberhurst Estate Bacchus Reserve 2014, 10.5%, Kent, £13, Marks & Spencer Marks & Spencer is expanding its range of English and Welsh wine this year. The Bacchus grape is delightfully foral with a citrus tinge. Also try Litmus White Pinot 2011, 11.5%, Surrey, £22. A white wine from red Pinot Noir grapes, it oozes honey, toast and spice.
British Summer Honeycomb from The London Honey Co, £6/170g, Mark & Spencer Create beautiful, simple puddings with this whole honeycomb. Break pieces over Greek yogurt or serve on a meringue base with whipped cream and blackberries. Munchy Seeds Chilli Bites, 69p/25g, Sainsbury’s The sweet apricot kernels add something different to this spiced and roasted mix of sunfower and pumpkin seeds. A handy pack for when hunger pangs strike! Nairn’s Organic Oatcakes with Oatbran, £1.09, Waitrose Reliably satisfying, Nairn’s newest oatcakes include added bran, which is the most fibre-rich part of an oat. They are also organic and gluten-free.
DON'T MISS
Radio Times Festival, 24-27 September, Hampton Court Palace, Surrey Join Great British Bake Off judge Paul Hollywood, who will be talking about all things baking and sharing advice. Other sessions include talks with Sir David Attenborough, Sir Bruce Forsyth, David Walliams, Peter Capaldi and Melvyn Bragg. And don’t miss the food village, which will feature pop-up gourmet street stalls and bars. To book tickets and for more information, visit radiotimesfestival.com.
Compiled by HOLLY BROOKE-SMITH | Photographs DANTE FERRIS, JAMES BOWDEN, CLARE HARGREAVES | SARAH JANE EVANS is a Master of Wine
HOLLY’S TROLLEY
GF LOVES Handcrafted porcelain cups dipped in a rainbow of glazes. At 7cm tall, they’re perfect for espresso or serving mini puds. Sip cup, £14.50 each, ohhdeer.com
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©2015 Lamb. Tasty Easy Fun
GET TO WOK WITH LAMB. You don't need a lot of time to make a wok of art, so chop chop and stir up Vietnamese style bo bun lamb in no time. Get your creative juices flowing and make lamb so much more than a flash in the pan .
IT'S TIME TO GET TO WOK AT
TASTYEASYLAMB.CO.UK
ADD A BUrST OF VIBrANT FLAVOUr TO YOUr CHICKEN The finest ingredients concentrated into little pots of flavour. Simply: Pan-fry sliced chicken.
Stir through a Loyd Grossman Pan Melt for a delicious meal.
In season Be inspired by this month’s freshest produce
At their best now Fruit & veg
u Apples u Aubergines u Autumn raspberries u Beetroot u Blackberries u Carrots u Chillies u Cobnuts u Cucumbers u Damsons u Fennel u Figs u Grapes u Hazelnuts u Maincrop potatoes u Marrows u Pears u Peppers u Plums u Pumpkins u Shallots u Spinach u Squash u Sweetcorn u Swiss chard u Tomatoes u Walnuts u Watercress u Wild mushrooms
Fish & seafood
u Brown crab u Cornish sardines u Mackerel u Mussels u Sea bass u Squid
Game
u Goose u Partridge u Venison u Wild duck u Wood pigeon
September 2015
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Stars of the month Seasonal veg gets a modern makeover with these new recipes from Jennifer Joyce Photographs PETER CASSIDY
Roa sted s beetr pea oot with za’atar, chick
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rt gu o y sa s i ar &h
September 2015
r& de n ria co , se ai n on
feta
Gri lled co rn w ith
ch ill im ay
In season
‘The mayonnaise creates an umami sauce that melts into the sweet kernels’ September 2015
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Maple-roasted marrow on cavolo nero salad
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September 2015
In season
Hot & sour aubergine
‘This Chinese favourite, with its velvety-soft aubergines, has all the satisfaction of a slow-cooked meat dish. Chinese black vinegar adds a pleasingly sharp tang to the sauce’
September 2015
bbcgoodfood.com
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In season
This light coating of Middle Eastern spice adds traditional flavour to a modern favourite, roasted beetroot. Za’atar is a blend that includes sesame seeds, dried oregano and marjoram. You’ll find both za’atar and sumac, a lemony flavoured spice, in most large supermarkets.
Maple-roasted marrow on cavolo nero salad The next time a friend gifts you surplus marrow from their allotment, make the most of it. Marrow has a tendency to be watery and bland, but roasting it, drizzled with maple syrup and garlic, transforms it. You could also try stuffing the roasted halves with spiced grains. EASY
EASY
OF 5 CALCIUM FOLATE FIBRE IRON 2 A DAY
LOW CALCIUM FOLATE VIT C 2 OF 5 GOOD CAL A DAY 4 YOU
SERVES 4 PREP 15 mins COOK 30 mins
SERVES 2 PREP 10 mins COOK 30 mins
8 raw baby beetroots, or 4 medium, scrubbed (purple, yellow or a mixture of the two) 1 tbsp za’atar 1 tbsp sumac 1 tbsp ground cumin 400g can chickpeas, drained and rinsed 2 tbsp olive oil 1 tsp each lemon zest and juice 200g/7oz Greek yogurt 1 tbsp harissa paste 1 tsp crushed red chilli fakes mint leaves, roughly chopped, to serve
1 Heat oven to 220C/200C fan/gas 7. Halve the beetroots. Or quarter them if you’re using medium ones or bigger. Mix all the spices together. On a very large baking tray or 2 smaller ones, mix the chickpeas and beetroot with the oil. Season well with sea salt and sprinkle the spices over. Mix again. Roast for 30 mins or until crisp at the edges. 2 While the vegetables are cooking, mix the lemon zest and juice and some salt with the yogurt. Swirl the harissa through and thickly spread onto a platter or shallow bowl. Top with the beetroot and chickpeas, and sprinkle with the chilli fakes and mint. PER SERVING energy 493 kcals • fat 27g • saturates 9g • carbs 36g • sugars 17g • fibre 11g • protein 19g • salt 1.4g
1 medium marrow 1 tbsp olive oil 1 garlic clove, crushed 1 tbsp maple syrup 3 tbsp hazelnuts, halved 2 slices toasted sourdough bread, blitzed into crumbs 200g/7oz cavolo nero, stalks removed, shredded 10 radishes, quartered 16 shavings of vegetarian-style Parmesan FOR THE DRESSING 2 tbsp red wine vinegar 1 tbsp lemon juice 3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil 1 shallot, fnely diced 1 tsp Dijon mustard pinch golden caster sugar
1 Heat oven to 220C/200C fan/gas 7. Slice the marrow open lengthways and scoop out the seeds. Cut the marrow into slices and place on a baking tray. Toss with the olive oil, garlic, maple syrup and some seasoning. Roast for 20 mins, then sprinkle the hazelnuts and breadcrumbs over. Roast for another 8 mins, then remove. 2 While the marrow is roasting, prepare the rest of the salad. Shred the cavolo nero leaves into bite-sized pieces. Put on a large platter or shallow bowl and top with the radishes. 3 Combine the dressing ingredients in a small bowl, adding some salt. Mix well. 4 Just before the marrow has fnished cooking, drizzle the dressing over the cavolo nero. Use your hands to massage it into the cavolo nero for a few mins so that it softens it, then top with the marrow, breadcrumbs and hazelnuts. Sprinkle the Parmesan shavings over and serve. PER SERVING energy 335 kcals • fat 22g • saturates 4g • carbs 23g • sugars 9g • fibre 3g • protein 10g • salt 0.6g
Hot & sour aubergine EASY
LOW FIBRE VIT C 3 OF 5 FAT A DAY
SERVES 2 PREP 10 mins plus soaking COOK 10 mins
1 large aubergine, or 2 medium, cut into long batons 100g/4oz green beans, trimmed and halved 2 tbsp vegetable oil 1 large onion, cut into thick half-moons 1 red chilli, halved, deseeded and thinly sliced FOR THE SAUCE 2 tbsp each light and dark soy sauce 1 tbsp tomato purée 2 tbsp Chinese black vinegar or balsamic vinegar 1 tbsp golden caster sugar 1 tsp cornfour dissolved in 2 tbsp water cooked rice, to serve
1 Put the aubergine in a bowl of lightly salted water and stand for 30 mins to soften. Drain and pat dry. Blanch the green beans in boiling water for 1 min then drain, rinse in cold water and drain again. 2 To make the sauce, combine all the ingredients in a small bowl and set aside. 3 Heat the oil in a large frying pan or wok over medium-high heat. When hot, cook the aubergine pieces until nicely browned on all sides – don’t turn them too early, let them get a nice colour frst. When they start to brown, add the onion and chilli, and keep stir-frying for 4 mins or until soft. 4 Add the sauce and green beans, cover with a lid, lower the heat and simmer for 2 mins or until the aubergine is soft. Serve with rice. PER SERVING energy 301 kcals • fat 12g • saturates 2g • carbs 34g • sugars 28g • fibre 13g • protein 6g • salt 2.8g
Grilled corn with chilli mayonnaise, coriander & feta EASY
1 OF 5 GOOD A DAY 4 YOU
SERVES 4 PREP 5 mins COOK 15 mins
4 corn cobs, husks and silks removed 50g/2oz mayonnaise 2 tsp crushed chilli flakes 4 tbsp finely crumbled feta 2 tbsp finely chopped coriander 1 lime, cut into quarters for squeezing
1 Cook the corn cobs in a large pan of boiling water for 5 mins. Remove the pan from the heat and leave the corn in the water until ready to grill. 2 Heat a griddle barbecue using direct heat. Just before serving, remove the cobs from the water, pat dry and brush all over with mayonnaise and chilli fakes. Season to taste, then cook for 5 mins, turning regularly until grill marks appear. Sprinkle the cobs with feta and coriander, then serve immediately with lime wedges to squeeze over when eating. PER SERVING energy 303 kcals • fat 16g • saturates 4g • carbs 28g • sugars 4g • fibre 4g • protein 9g • salt 0.7g
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September 2015
Food styling JANE HORNBY | Styling LUIS PERAL
Roasted beetroot with za’atar, chickpeas & harissa yogurt
In season
preserve more… Let’s
Making your own jams, pickles and chutney will give you a glow of satisfaction, as well as a bounty to fll your shelves for autumn. Food writer Jane Hornby shows you how to get started Photographs PETER CASSIDY
September 2015
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This has been the year that the Seventies really came back – those button-through denim skirts, big shades, the pickles…
Cinnamon-scented plum jam
Jane’s green tomato chutney
Rich with fruit and a little spice, this jam will have you harking back to warmer days every time you pop the lid. The plums I used were ripe, so I added the lemon juice to increase the acidity and help improve the set of the jam. If your plums are unripe, you can leave this out.
A classic recipe that makes the most of those end-of-season stubborn green tomatoes that just won’t turn rosy. Long, slow simmering is essential for a tasty chutney, during which time the apple will break down to provide body, leaving some chunks of tomato, the sultanas and onions for texture.
MAKES 3 x 450ml jars PREP 30 mins COOK 30 mins
MAKES 5 x 450ml jars PREP 30 mins COOK 2 hrs
The pickles? Yes, pickling and preserving is enjoying the biggest resurgence since the days when we all watched The Good Life and wore fares. This new wave of boiling and brining frst appeared in restaurants and pop-ups a few years ago – homemade pickles were de rigueur with a dirty burger, and fermentation has got a look-in thanks to the popularity of Korean cuisine and hot dog joints. Get cracking now with the Pickled cabbage recipe on page 36, and you’ll be serving the hippest hot dogs on Bonfre Night. Whatever your reasons for preserving – whether you need to use up your allotment produce or market stall bargains, or because you’re a thrifty, rainy day kind of cook – there’s something wonderful about locking your own produce safely behind glass for later use. It’s a luxury that we can all afford to try, as most preserves are characteristically cheap to make and resoundingly simple. It’s amazing to think that with the basics of sugar, salt and vinegar, plus a little time or heat, almost any fruit or veg can be turned into a time capsule of tastiness for the seasons to come. Jane Hornby
2kg/4lb 8oz plums, stoned and roughly chopped 2kg/4lb 8oz white granulated sugar 2 tsp ground cinnamon 1 tbsp lemon juice 3 cinnamon sticks (optional) knob of butter
4 tbsp olive oil 1kg/1lb 4oz onions, chopped 6 garlic cloves, fnely chopped 1 tbsp mixed spice 1 heaped tsp yellow mustard seeds 1 tsp chilli fakes (optional) 2 bay leaves 2kg/4lb 8oz green tomatoes, roughly chopped 500g/1lb 2oz cooking apples, peeled and diced 850ml/11/2 pts cider vinegar 500g/1lb 4oz light soft brown sugar 200g/7oz soft pitted dates, chopped 200g/7oz sultanas 1 tbsp faky sea salt (or 1 heaped tsp coarse crystal)
EASY
LOW GLUTEN FAT FREE
1 Sterilise the jars and any other equipment before you start (see box below left). Put a couple of saucers in the freezer, as you’ll need these for testing whether the jam is ready later (or use a sugar thermometer). Put the plums in a preserving pan and add 200ml water. Bring to a simmer, and cook for about 10 mins until the plums are tender but not falling apart. Add the sugar, ground cinnamon and lemon juice, then let the sugar dissolve slowly, without boiling. This will take about 10 mins. 2 Increase the heat and bring the jam to a full rolling boil. After about 5 mins, spoon a little jam onto a cold saucer. Wait a few seconds, then push the jam with your fngertip. If it wrinkles, the jam is ready. If not, cook for a few mins more and test again, with another cold saucer. If you have a sugar thermometer, it will read 105C when ready. 3 Take the jam off the heat and add the cinnamon sticks (if using) and the knob of butter. The cinnamon will look pretty in the jars and the butter will disperse any scum. Let the jam cool for 15 mins, which will prevent the lumps of fruit sinking to the bottom of the jars. Ladle into hot jars, seal and leave to cool. Will keep for 1 year in a cool, dark place. Chill once opened. PER TBSP energy 35 kcals • fat none • saturates none • carbs 9g • sugars 9g • fibre none • protein none • salt none
EASY
LOW GLUTEN FAT FREE
1 Heat the oil in a preserving pan, then add the onions and let them gently soften for 10 mins. Add the garlic, spices and bay, and cook for 5 mins more until fragrant. 2 Tip in the tomatoes, apples and half the vinegar, then simmer for about 15 mins or until the tomatoes and apples are soft. Add the rest of the vinegar, then the sugar, dried fruit and salt, and cook gently until the sugar dissolves. 3 Turn up the heat a little, then bubble the chutney for about 1 hr 30 mins, or until it is thick and jammy. When ready, you will be able to drag a line across the bottom of the pan without the chutney fooding back straight away. The timing can vary depending on the water content of the tomatoes. Remove the bay leaves before potting the hot chutney into hot, sterilised jars. PER TBSP energy 18 kcals • fat none • saturates none • carbs 4g • sugars 4g • fibre none • protein none • salt 0.1g
Jane’s jam tip Sterilising jars and equipment Wash jars and lids in hot, soapy water, rinse, then place on a baking tray and put in a low oven for 10 mins or until completely dry. If you want to use rubber seals, remove the seals and cover in just-boiled water. Make sure you sterilise any funnels, ladles or spoons you’re going to be using too.
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It’s always best to make two batches rather than doubling up. It will take too long (and you’d need a huge pan) to bring more than 2kg fruit to the right temperature, and the jam won’t taste as good.
bbcgoodfood.com
September 2015
In season
Cinnamon-scented plum jam
Jane’s green tomato chutney
September 2015
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Pickling is one of the simplest ways to preserve vegetables. Unlike chutney making, though, where you can use less-than-perfect produce, pickles (and jams) need top-notch ingredients to stay the distance in your cupboard for a few months. Some vegetables need salting or brining before they meet the vinegar in order to stay frm and relatively crisp, while others need cooking frst. If you follow my master recipe and variations below, you’ll be able to pickle just about any veg you like. Multiply the quantities if you have a large glut to preserve.
MASTER RECIPE Pickling vinegar
BRINED
Spiced pickled shallots EASY
LOW GLUTEN FAT FREE
MAKES 4 x 450ml jars PREP 1 hr plus overnight brining COOK 5 mins
The day before pickling, put 1kg/2lb 4oz shallots in a large bowl and cover with boiling water. Leave to cool, then drain and peel away the skins and trim the root ends. In a large bowl, mix 140g/5oz coarse crystal sea salt with 300ml boiling water and let it dissolve to make a brining solution. Add 1.2 litres cold water, then the shallots. Cover and leave to soak overnight. The next day, drain, rinse then drain again. Pack the shallots into jar. Make the pickling vinegar (see left), pour it over the shallots while hot and seal. Ready to eat in 1 month, or longer, if you like.
MAKES enough for 4 x 450ml jars PREP 5 mins COOK 10 mins
PER TBSP energy 26 kcals • fat none • saturates none • carbs 4g • sugars 4g • fibre 2g • protein 1g • salt 0.9g
1 tbsp black peppercorns 1 tbsp coriander seeds 1 tbsp yellow mustard seeds 10 cloves few pieces of mace blades pinch of dried chilli fakes (optional) 2 bay leaves 700ml/11/4 pts white wine vinegar, plus 31/2 tbsp 100g/4oz light brown soft sugar
Pickled green beans
1 Put the whole spices in a medium saucepan. Toast over a low heat until they begin to smell aromatic. Add the dried chilli flakes last, as these can easily catch. 2 Add the bay, pour in all of the vinegar and sugar, let it dissolve, and bring to a simmer. The hot vinegar is ready to use with any of the following pickling recipes (see right).
Serve with a slice of terrine or pâté. EASY
LOW GLUTEN FAT FREE
space at the top of the jar and make sure the vegetables are well-covered in vinegar. A pestle or the end of a rolling pin is ideal for pushing the veg down into the vinegar. n When salted or brined and pickled, and kept in a cool, dark place, these pickles should last, unopened, for several months. Softer vegetables, such as beans and cucumbers, are most likely to go soggy sooner, as they are the most watery. n Keep in the fridge once opened and use within a month.
the vinegar must be 6% acidity. White wine and malt vinegars are 6%, but cider vinegar has slightly lower acidity, so is more suitable for chutneys. n All equipment must be sparklingly clean before you begin, to eliminate bacteria or yeasts from the equation. n Do not use table salt for pickling, as the anti-caking agents can give a cloudy, discoloured result. Look for either coarse crystal or coarse grain salt.
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Add a spoonful of harissa for extra heat. EASY
LOW GLUTEN FAT FREE
MAKES 4 x 450ml jars PREP 20 mins COOK 15 mins
Peel 1kg carrots and cut into sticks or slices. Boil in generously salted water for 2 mins until just starting to soften, then drain. Make the pickling vinegar (see left), toasting 1 tbsp cumin seeds with the other spices. Add 1/2 tsp turmeric, 6 sliced garlic cloves and use white sugar instead of light brown soft. Pack the carrots into the jars, adding 1 tsp coarse crystal sea salt to each, cover with the vinegar and seal. Ready to eat in 2 weeks, or longer, if you like.
Trim the stems from 1kg green beans. Make a brine (see Spiced pickled shallots recipe), then add the beans. Soak overnight, then rinse and drain. Make the pickling vinegar (see left) using white sugar instead of light brown soft, and add 1 fnely chopped red onion. Pack the beans into jars, then pour over the hot vinegar and seal. Ready to eat in 2 weeks, or longer, if you like.
Pickled cabbage
PER TBSP energy 33 kcals • fat 1g • saturates none • carbs 4g • sugars 3g • fibre 3g • protein 2g • salt 0.9g
EASY
n For pickles to last in the jar,
Pickled carrots with garlic & cumin
PER TBSP energy 31 kcals • fat none • saturates none • carbs 5g • sugars 5g • fibre 3g • protein 1g • salt 2.1g
LOW GLUTEN FAT FREE
MAKES 4 x 450ml jars PREP 30 mins plus overnight brining COOK 10 mins
n Allow a few centimetres of
PER TBSP energy 37 kcals • fat 2g • saturates none • carbs 4g • sugars 3g • fibre 1g • protein 1g • salt 0.9g
MAKES 4 x 450ml jars PREP 20 mins plus overnight brining COOK 10 mins
Pickled radishes with ginger & chilli
Pickling tips
for 1 hr or until tender. Cool, peel, then cut into wedges. Make the pickling vinegar (see left). Pack the beets into jars, add 1 tsp coarse crystal sea salt to each, then pour over the hot vinegar and seal. Ready to eat in 2 weeks, or longer, if you like.
Trim 1kg radishes and halve any larger ones. Brine the radishes overnight (see Spiced pickled shallots recipe), then rinse and drain. Make the pickling vinegar (see left) with 150g white sugar, add 1 thumb-sized piece ginger, peeled and thinly sliced and 1 sliced red chilli. Pack the radishes into jars, pour over the hot vinegar, then seal. Ready to eat in 2 weeks, or longer, if you like. PER TBSP energy 19 kcals • fat none • saturates none • carbs 3g • sugars 3g • fibre 1g • protein 1g • salt 0.9g
COOKED
Pickled beetroot EASY
GLUTEN FREE
MAKES 4-5 x 450ml jars PREP 20 mins COOK 1 hr 10 mins
Wash and trim 1kg beetroot, rub each with 1 tbsp vegetable oil, then wrap individually in foil. Roast on a tray at 200C/180C fan/gas 6
bbcgoodfood.com
EASY
LOW GLUTEN FAT FREE
MAKES 4-5 x 450ml jars PREP 15 mins plus 1 hr resting COOK 10 mins
Mix together 500g thinly sliced white cabbage and 4 tbsp sea salt in a large bowl. Put 1/2 tsp black peppercorns, 2 bay leaves and 1 rosemary sprig on a small piece of muslin cloth and tie into a small spice bag. Crush the bag to release the flavours, then add to the cabbage. Set aside for 1 hr, giving it a stir after 30 mins. Make the pickling vinegar (see left). Remove the spice bag and pack the cabbage into jars, pour over the hot vinegar and seal. Ready to eat in 2 weeks, or longer, if you like. PER TBSP energy 33 kcals • fat none • saturates none • carbs 5g • sugars 5g • fibre 3g • protein 1g • salt 2.1g
SALTED
Dill pickled cucumbers Perfect for burgers and wraps. EASY
LOW GLUTEN FAT FREE
MAKES 4-5 x 450ml jars PREP 15 mins plus overnight brining COOK 10 mins
Cut 1kg small pickling or ridged cucumbers into sticks or slices. Layer with 85g coarse crystal sea salt in a large bowl, cover and leave overnight. Drain away the brine, then rinse. Make the pickling vinegar (see left), adding a handful of dill sprigs and using white sugar instead of brown. Pack the cucumber into jars, pour over the hot vinegar and seal. Ready to eat in 2 weeks, or longer, if you like. PER TBSP energy 15 kcals • fat none • saturates none • carbs 2g • sugars 2g • fibre 1g • protein 1g • salt 0.8g
September 2015
Food styling JANE HORNBY | Styling LUIS PERAL
One pickle fits all
In season
Dill pickled cucumbers
Pickled beetroot
Pickled green beans
Pickled radishes with ginger & chilli
Pickled carrots with garlic & cumin September 2015
Spiced pickled shallots
bbcgoodfood.com
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&
In season
Seasonal local
CHEFS’ NOTEBOOK SPECIAL
As the new series of BBC Two’s Great British Menu gets underway, eight of this year’s competing chefs reveal their top places to eat and shop
Jak O’Donnell, Chef-patron at The Sisters (thesisters.co.uk), Glasgow Most memorable meal The Captain’s Galley in Scrabster (captainsgalley.co.uk), at the very top of Scotland – you can’t get much further! I tried monkfsh liver here for the frst time, and I can still remember the taste. Next on your list to visit Restaurant Nathan Outlaw in Cornwall (nathan-outlaw.com) – I love eating fsh outdoors with a tremendous view, particularly as I work indoors in a kitchen all the time.
CENTRAL REGION
Jason Hodnett, Head chef at The Raven Hotel & Restaurant (ravenhotel.com), Shropshire Best restaurant ever El Molino Blanco in Tenerife (molino-blanco.com), a rustic Spanish restaurant (below). We’ve returned time and again as a family on holiday. I always have their three-year cured Ibérico ham – the best ham you’ll ever taste.
On a day off I head to the Lobster Shack (lobstershack. co.uk) by the harbour in North Berwick, which is an hour’s drive away. We run on the beach with the kids and dogs, then we’ll have a pot of mussels Lobster Shack and a Firth of Forth crab cocktail, maybe langoustines if we get there early enough. They’re licensed too, so what’s not to love!
On a night off I like eating at The Golden Cross in Shrewsbury (goldencrosshotel.co. uk). My go-to dish is the belly pork; cooked for hours, it melts in the mouth. Great local produce On Fridays and Saturdays, we run a fresh produce stall, called The Marketplace, at the hotel. It stocks fsh, fruit and veg, and baked goods produced in the restaurant kitchen. We have a great relationship with suppliers and get to hand-pick some of the best British produce.
September 2015
SCOTLAND
bbcgoodfood.com
SOUTH
Matt Gillan, Head chef at The Pass (southlodgehotel.co.uk), South Lodge Hotel, West Sussex Best ever meal At L’Enclume (lenclume.co.uk) in Cumbria last year. We always go somewhere high-end in January, when the restaurant is closed. I love seeing different and new techniques. I was well aware of Simon Rogan, but didn’t know what to expect. The stand-out dish was the lamb hotpot; three spherifications and a little lamb jus – so small and simple in its appearance, yet the favour it delivered was mind-blowing. I’ll never forget it. Next on your list to visit Hedone (hedonerestaurant. com) in London’s Chiswick. Mikael Jonsson’s approach to food sounds refreshing, and I’m intrigued to see the results of a chef who does not have the constraints of formal (or informal)
Hedone in London
training. He does what he thinks is right, rather than what he has been taught. Favourite local shop I like New Street Butchers & Deli in Horsham (newstreet butchers.co.uk). The quality of the meat is fantastic.
• Matt is cooking at the Abergavenny Food Festival, see p42 for more details.
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In season Adam Bannister, Co-chef-patron at Slice (sliceswansea.co.uk), Swansea
WALES
Best meal ever The tasting menu at a high-end restaurant called Moments at Barcelona’s Mandarin Oriental (mandarinoriental. com/barcelona). One dish I’ll always remember is Iberian pork with daikon, apple & almonds. It used a forgotten cut of pork, but it blew me away. On a night off Several times a month I eat at a Chinese restaurant in Swansea called Sichuan Savour (sichuansavour.co.uk). They use fresh ingredients you wouldn’t fnd in a British restaurant – such as ducks’ tongues and pigs’ ears – and cook them really well.
Barcelona’s Moments restaurant
Favourite local shop A good piece of meat is key to a good meal, so I head to The Gower Butcher in the centre of Swansea.
SOUTH WEST
Josh Eggleton, Chef-patron at The Pony & Trap (theponyandtrap.co.uk), Chew Magna, Somerset On a night off I go to Wallfsh Bistro (wallfishbistro.co.uk) in Clifton, Bristol. It’s so relaxed. I love their native oysters. They do superb Negronis, and the fried squid is excellent too. Next on your list to visit The Parlour gastropub (parlourkensal.com) in Kensal Green, where Jesse Dunford Wood is chef-patron. He has a great personality and a good pedigree, so I know the food will be amazing.
The Parlour gastropub
Favourite local shop Our local butcher in Blagdon (blagdonbutchers.co.uk). It sells grass-fed beef and pasture-raised pork, chicken and lamb, which are all sourced from local farms, including its own. We buy all our beef there; it’s aged for up to 50 days, but some cuts are even aged for 150 days. It also does amazing pancetta and lardo.
Next UK restaurant on your list I have a long list, and it’s constantly growing, but next is The Yorke Arms (yorke-arms. co.uk) in Ramsgill-in-Nidderdale, Yorkshire. I admire Frances Atkins; her approach to food, her restaurant and relentless commitment to the trade.
Ben Arnold, Head chef at Home restaurant (home belfast.co.uk), Belfast Best meal ever Lunch at Marea (marea-nyc.com) by Michael White in New York. It had an electric atmosphere, plus faultless service, and amazing Californian wine. The dish that made the meal was Hand-rolled fusilli pasta with red wine-braised octopus & bone marrow – its beauty was its simplicity and the execution.
September 2015
NORTHERN IRELAND
On a night off I eat at Macau in East Belfast (macaubelfast.com). It’s family-run and serves authentic Asian food. I love the Crispy soft shell crab, prawn-stuffed aubergine, and Hake in XO sauce, as well as Roast duck in bean sprouts. I could go on…
The Yorke Arms, where Frances Atkins (above) is chef
Favourite market St George’s Market in Belfast (belfastcity.gov.uk) has great quality local produce – fsh, shellfsh and organic veg. You will also fnd specialist butchers and artisan producers here. It’s a living market used by the people.
Michael O’Hare,
NORTH EAST
Chef-patron at The Man Behind the Curtain (themanbehindthe curtain.co.uk), Leeds Most memorable meal At 41 degrees in Barcelona, the brainchild of Albert Adrià. Everything was magical: Adrià at his absolute best! It was light years away from anything else I’ve ever eaten. My favourite dish was the olives – mind-blowingly good. Next UK restaurant on your list House of Tides (houseoftides.co.uk) in Newcastle. I went at its inception, then again six months later, and it’s great to watch it evolve. Kenny Atkinson cooks food he believes in. He’s never scared to make food taste great, which is something that gets a little lost in some restaurants.
bbcgoodfood.com
Kirkgate Market
On a day off Meat Liquor in Leeds (meatliquor.com) has become somewhat of a local for my team. Every Saturday night, we head down after service. My favourite dishes are the Buffalo chicken with blue cheese, Mac & cheese and Monkey fngers (marinated chicken). Favourite market Kirkgate Market (leedskirkgatemarket.co.uk). I fell in love with it from an early age – my parents would always take me, as they wanted to look at the huge selection of fabrics. As my father ran his fngers through the fne silks, I would wander off to the veg stalls and gaze at the carrots, courgettes and daikon radishes and ponder what I could do with them.
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In season
Local heroes The Great British Menu chefs tell us about their favourite unsung British ingredients
NORTH WEST
Next restaurant on your list to visit Midsummer House (midsummerhouse.co.uk) in Cambridge. I’ve always wanted to eat there since Daniel Clifford judged me on the Great British Menu last year. I’m also looking forward to Cambridge’s Alimentum (restaurant alimentum.co.uk) as Mark Poynton is a fellow northern lad, and his food is excellent.
On a night off I eat at The Yew Tree Inn at Bunbury (theyewtreebunbury.com), a local pub with excellent food, wines, craft beers, service and atmosphere. It’s fve minutes from my house and the proprietor, Jon Cox, has done a great job transforming it. Favourite food shops I buy veg at farm shops such as The Hollies (theholliesfarmshop. co.uk) – I find supermarket fruit and veg tasteless. I get my meat from RF Burrows & Sons butchers (rf-burrows andsons.co.uk) in Bunbury.
KENTISH COBNUTS Look out for Kentish cobnuts this month – the harvest began on St Philibert’s Day on 22 August. Cobnuts (a type of hazelnut or flbert), have been cultivated for centuries on Kent’s sandstone ridge. In the 1900s, plats (the local word for an orchard of cobnuts) covered more than 7,000 acres. Alexander Hunt, who has a six-acre cobnut plantation on Potash Farm, near St Mary’s Platt in Kent, is chair of the Kentish Cobnuts Association. He’s keen to revive this ‘endangered’ heritage food and has restored his farm’s original 500 cobnut trees and planted 500 more. He sells his cobnuts and cobnut products (including oils and biscuits) in farm shops and at kentishcobnuts.com. Unlike many other nuts, cobnuts are sold fresh, not dried. At the start of the season, they’re milky green
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Adam Bannister Swede. Sadly, not a lot of people appreciate it, but it can be stunning. I love it whole, grated, puréed, or tossed in butter. Mark Ellis Rabbit is coming back into fashion. I’ve always had rabbit on my menus but it would be great to see it more readily available to the public. The Great British Menu continues on Wednesday evenings on BBC Two. Read more about judge Prue Leith on p146 and see judge Oliver Peyton’s kitchen on p106.
Dates for your diary 5-6 Sep North Norfolk
18-20 Sep Abergavenny
Food & Drink Festival, Holkham Estate
Food Festival, Wales
northnorfolkfoodfestival.co.uk
6 Sep Lobster and Crab Feast, Clovelly, Devon clovelly.co.uk
12 Sep Ashburton Food
Festival, Lancashire
19-20 Sep Meatopia, Tobacco Dock, London meatopia.co.uk 19-20 Sep Isle of Man Food & Drink Festival
blackburnfoodfestival.co.uk
visitisleofman.com
12-13 Sep Tooting
24-27 Sep The Radio
Foodival 2015, London tootingfoodival.blogspot.co.uk
Times Festival, Hampton Court Palace, Surrey
28 Sep-11 Oct North
radiotimesfestival.com (see p22)
Norfolk Restaurant week
25-27 Sep Great Cornish
(spans two weeks) northnorfolkrestaurantweek.co.uk
greatcornishfood.co.uk/festival
18-27 Sep York Food
26 Sep Thame Food
& Drink Festival
Festival, Oxfordshire
yorkfoodfestival.com
thamefoodfestival.co.uk
& Drink Festival, Devon ashburtonfoodfestival.co.uk
12 Sep Blackburn Food
and juicy – ideal for salads. By late September, they’re brown, drier and sweeter – so perfect for puddings. From November, Alexander sells them dehusked in their shells.
bbcgoodfood.com
abergavennyfoodfestival.com. On 19 Sep, as part of the festival, Matt Gillan (a contestant on Great British Menu) will cook a feast at Llanfoist village hall (visit feastwithachef.co.uk for info).
Food Festival, Truro
September 2015
DAVID COTSWORTH/OLIVE, CHRISTOPHER JEFFREY, GETTY IMAGES, ISTOCK
of 1851 Restaurant at Peckforton Castle (peckfortoncastle.co.uk), Cheshire
Photographs BBC, ALAMY, STEVE JOYCE, RICHARD HAUGHTON, LAUREN McCLEAN,
Mark Ellis, Head chef
Matt Gillan It has to be kid goat. Although it has grown in popularity with chefs and in turn restaurant-goers, most people are unaware of this amazing product. Or there are those who have tried goat, but only an older animal, in curry or stew that has a very strong flavour. However, kid goat has a beautiful favour and texture, and is super lean. It’s a very versatile product, not dissimilar to lamb. Jason Hodnett Spelt – we’re using it more and more, in breads, risotto, biscuits and cakes. It has a mellow, nutty favour, is high in protein, easily digestible and healthy, so it’s an all-round star of the larder. Ben Arnold Offal, along with game. The versatility and the range of offal, the varying seasons, and the huge range of meats and different favours. Jak O’Donnell Wild garlic. I am always amazed to fnd such large patches of it untouched. All the more for me! Michael O’Hare There’s a small piece of fesh behind a cod’s eyes that’s incredibly gelatinous but super tasty. We always roast the cod heads for staff. That piece of nectar behind the eye is perfect for sharing. It sounds a little disgusting, but my chefs love it so much! Josh Eggleton Button mushrooms are hugely underrated. We slice and sauté the mushrooms, then deglaze the pan with Worcestershire sauce and milk, which we purée with the mushrooms. We serve this with ox liver – delicious. I also love mushrooms raw in a salad with watercress, or roasted with chicken or beef.
Make it tonight Just 20 minutes prep, or less Easy-to-fnd ingredients Under £2.50 per serving Family-friendly food for the new term
OUR PROMISE TO YOU
Recipes KATY GILHOOLY Photographs ROB STREETER
Smoked haddock & sweetcorn chowder
Butternut squash pilaf EASY
LOW 2 OF 5 GOOD CAL A DAY 4 YOU
1 OF 5 EASY LOW FAT A DAY
SERVES 4 PREP 10 mins COOK 30 mins
SERVES 4 PREP 10 mins COOK 30 mins
1 tbsp vegetable oil 1 onion, chopped 1 tbsp tagine spice blend (we used Bart Baharat) 350g pack ready-diced butternut squash 225g/8oz basmati rice 2.5cm/1in piece root ginger, peeled and fnely grated 1 garlic clove, crushed 100g/4oz fruit & nut mix 600ml/1 pt vegetable stock 1 tbsp ready-made crispy onions chopped parsley, to serve (optional)
25g/1oz butter 1 onion, chopped 3 celery sticks, chopped 200g/7oz baby new potatoes, halved 500ml/18f oz chicken stock 400ml/14f oz semi-skimmed milk 300g/11oz frozen sweetcorn (or drained weight from a can) 400g/14oz undyed smoked haddock fllets, skinless and boneless small pack fat-leaf parsley, leaves only, chopped
1 Place a large pan over a medium heat. Add the oil and onion, and cook gently until softened, around 5 mins. Tip in the spice blend, butternut squash and rice, and fry until everything is sizzling and coated in the spices. Add the ginger and garlic, fry for 30 secs more, then scatter in the fruit & nut mix. Stir in the stock and put the lid on the pan. Keep covered but stir regularly, every 5 mins or so, for 20 mins. 2 Once the rice is tender and the stock has been absorbed, serve at once on a large platter topped with crispy fried onions and chopped parsley, if you like. PER SERVING energy 417 kcals • fat 13g • saturates 1g • carbs 63g • sugars 13g • fibre 5g • protein 10g • salt 0.4g
£1.25 per serving
£1.45 per serving Philly-style cheese dogs 1 OF 5 EASY VIT C A DAY
SERVES 4 PREP 5 mins COOK 25-30 mins
12 chipolata sausages 2 green peppers, sliced 1 onion, cut into wedges 3 garlic cloves, unpeeled 230g pack ready-made cheese sauce 4 large hot dog buns (we used submarine rolls)
1 Heat the butter in a large saucepan until melted. Add the onion, celery and potatoes, and cook gently for 10 mins until the onion is really soft. 2 Pour in the chicken stock followed by the milk and stir well. Bring to a simmer and cook for another 15 mins, stirring occasionally. Season to taste. Add the sweetcorn, then place the haddock fllets on top. Let the mixture simmer very gently for 5 mins or until the haddock just starts to break up. 3 To serve, carefully stir in half of the parsley, ladle the chowder into individual bowls and scatter with the remaining parsley at the table. PER SERVING energy 342 kcals • fat 10g • saturates 5g • carbs 30g • sugars 9g • fibre 5g • protein 31g • salt 2.5g
£2.16 per serving
1 Heat oven to 220C/200C fan/gas 7. Put the chipolatas, peppers, onion and garlic in a large roasting tin and roast for 25-30 mins or until the sausages are cooked through and the vegetables are starting to caramelise. Gently shake the tin a few times during cooking to help everything to roast evenly. 2 When the sausages are almost cooked, warm the cheese sauce following pack instructions and put the rolls in the oven for 4-5 mins to warm through. 3 Take the sausages and vegetables out of the oven. Lightly crush the garlic cloves with the back of a spoon to release the cooked garlic, discard the skin and give everything a stir. Season and cut a slit in the rolls, then pile in the sausages, veg and garlic. Spoon in the cheese sauce and serve immediately. PER SERVING energy 721 kcals • fat 43g • saturates 14g • carbs 51g • sugars 8g • fibre 5g • protein 30g • salt 2.9g
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bbcgoodfood.com
September 2015
Everyday £1.38 per serving Ham & tarragon pot pie EASY CALCIUM unbaked SERVES 4 PREP 20 mins COOK 30-35 mins
50g/2oz butter 1 onion, chopped 2 celery sticks, chopped 50g/2oz plain four 600ml/1 pt milk 90g pack pulled ham hock small pack tarragon, leaves only, chopped 1 egg, beaten 320g pack ready-rolled puff pastry cooked peas, to serve
£1.76 per serving
Spaghetti & tuna balls 1 OF 5 GOOD EASY LOW FAT A DAY 4 YOU
SERVES 4 PREP 15 mins COOK 20 mins
4 x 150g cans tuna in brine, drained 140g/5oz breadcrumbs 2 eggs 2 tbsp mixed seeds 1 small pack tarragon, leaves only, chopped 1 tbsp sunfower oil 300g/11oz spaghetti 2 x 400g cans cherry tomatoes 1 garlic clove, crushed
1 In a large bowl, mix together the tuna, breadcrumbs, eggs, seeds and half of the chopped tarragon. Season, then scrunch the mixture together with your hands and form into golf ball-sized balls. 2 Take a large, deep, non-stick frying pan and add 2 tsp oil. Fry 5-6 balls in the oil over a high heat for 5 mins or until they are a deep golden brown all over, adding more oil if the pan gets dry. Transfer to a plate covered in kitchen paper. Repeat with the rest of the balls. 3 Cook the spaghetti following pack instructions. Meanwhile, tip the cherry tomatoes into the pan you fried the balls in and add the garlic. Bring to a simmer, then season. When the spaghetti has been cooking for a few minutes, spoon a ladleful of pasta water into the cherry tomatoes to make a sauce. Just before serving, put the tuna balls back in the pan with the sauce to warm through for 5 mins. 4 Drain the pasta and scatter the remaining tarragon over the tuna balls before serving.
1 Heat oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. In a shallow casserole dish, melt the butter over a medium heat on the hob. Add the onion and celery, and fry gently to soften. Add the four and stir to coat the vegetables. Slowly add the milk, stirring really well after each addition, making sure there are no lumps of four before you add the next splash of milk. Once all the milk has been added, bring to a simmer to thicken, then fold in the ham hock and the tarragon. Season to taste, then add about half the beaten egg. 2 Cut a circle of puff pastry 2cm wider than the top of the pan and pop it on to seal in the flling underneath, folding the edges to create a crust. Cut the off-cuts of pastry into rough strips and use them to decorate the top. Brush the pastry with the remaining egg and bake in the oven for 25 mins or until the pastry is golden and crisp. Serve with peas.
Prawn & rice noodle stir-fry LOW 2 OF 5 EASY LOW FAT CAL IRON A DAY
SERVES 4 PREP 10 mins COOK 15 mins
PER SERVING energy 579 kcals • fat 34g • saturates 18g • carbs 48g • sugars 10g • fibre 1g • protein 19g • salt 1.7g
£1.31 per serving
200g/7oz rice noodles 1 tbsp vegetable oil 1 leek, sliced 200g/7oz fne green beans 300g/11oz beansprouts 1 garlic clove, crushed 300g/11oz peeled raw king prawns 1-2 tbsp soy sauce TO SERVE 2 tsp toasted sesame seeds pickled ginger
1 Pour boiling water over the rice noodles in a large heatproof bowl and leave for 3-5 mins to soften. Meanwhile, in a large wok or frying pan, heat the oil, add the leek and stir-fry over a high heat until starting to soften. Add the green beans and beansprouts, then cook for another 3 mins. Add the garlic and prawns, and cook until the prawns are starting to turn pink. Splash in the soy sauce and heat until everything is cooked through. 2 Tip the contents of the wok onto a large serving dish, drain the rice noodles, add to the serving dish, then toss everything together. Top with the toasted sesame seeds and pickled ginger to serve.
PER SERVING energy 619 kcals • fat 10g • saturates 2g • carbs 84g • sugars 8g • fibre 5g • protein 45g • salt 1.5g
PER SERVING energy 303 kcals • fat 4g • saturates 1g • carbs 45g • sugars 4g • fibre 4g • protein 20g • salt 1.1g
September 2015
bbcgoodfood.com
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Everyday
Loaded naans EASY
1 OF 5 FIBRE VIT C A DAY
SERVES 4 PREP 15 mins COOK 15 mins
3-4 tbsp curry paste 2 tsp cashew nut butter 4 naan breads 1 red onion, sliced 1 red pepper, sliced 10 cherry tomatoes, halved 226g pack paneer, diced TO SERVE small pack coriander, chopped 170g fat-free Greek yogurt 2 tbsp mango chutney
Beef & bacon meatloaf 1 OF 5 EASY A DAY
SERVES 4-6 PREP 5 mins COOK 40-45 mins
1 tbsp vegetable oil, plus extra for greasing 1 onion, chopped 200g/7oz smoked bacon lardons 1 tsp smoked paprika 50g/2oz fresh breadcrumbs 500g/1lb 2oz beef mince 1 egg 2 garlic cloves, crushed 500g pack passata 2 tbsp onion marmalade small pack basil, leaves only
1 Heat oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Heat the oil in a large saucepan and fry the onion and lardons until the onion is soft and the lardons are cooked through and golden at the edges. Remove from the heat and add the smoked paprika, breadcrumbs, mince, egg and half of the crushed garlic. Season and stir really well. Grease a 450g loaf tin with a little oil, then fill with the meat mixture. Spread 1 tbsp of the onion marmalade evenly over the top and place on a tray in the oven for 35-40 mins. 2 Meanwhile, pour the passata into a saucepan over a low heat, add the remaining garlic, the rest of the onion marmalade and half of the basil. Season, stir and heat gently until ready to serve. 3 Once the meatloaf is cooked through, take it out of the oven and let it sit for a few mins before turning out onto a plate to slice. Serve with the tomato sauce and the rest of the basil leaves scattered over. PER SERVING (6) energy 382 kcals • fat 23g • saturates 9g • carbs 15g • sugars 8g • fibre 2g • protein 26g • salt 1.3g
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£2.09 per serving
PER SERVING energy 653 kcals • fat 20g • saturates 5g • carbs 86g • sugars 12g • fibre 7g • protein 28g • salt 2.9g
£1.10 per serving
Cheat’s katsu curry EASY
sauce only SERVES 4 PREP 15 mins COOK 25 mins
4 breaded chicken steaks 1 tbsp vegetable oil 1 onion, chopped 2 carrots, chopped into chunks 500ml/18f oz chicken gravy 2 tsp mild curry powder 1 tbsp smooth peanut butter 2 tbsp soy sauce TO SERVE pickled red cabbage cooked rice 100g bag crunchy salad
1 Heat oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Cook the chicken following pack instructions. 2 Meanwhile, to make the katsu sauce, heat the oil in a medium saucepan and fry the onion and carrots for around 8–10 mins or until soft, but not golden. Transfer the onion and carrot to a blender. Add the gravy, curry powder, peanut butter and soy sauce, then whizz until very smooth. Pour the sauce mixture back into the pan and heat until simmering hot, stirring frequently. 3 Slice the chicken into strips, divide between 4 plates, then pour the katsu sauce over. Add a spoonful of pickled red cabbage to each portion and serve with cooked rice and salad leaves. PER SERVING energy 499 kcals • fat 31g • saturates 6g • carbs 33g • sugars 9g • fibre 4g • protein 21g • salt 3.4g
September 2015
Food styling NANCY McDOUGALL
94p per serving
1 Heat oven to 220C/200C fan/gas 7. In a small bowl, mix together the curry paste and the cashew nut butter, then spread the mixture over the naan breads. Take 2 large baking trays and place 2 of the naans on each. Top the breads with a scattering of sliced red onion and pepper, cherry tomatoes and pieces of paneer. 2 Bake in the oven for 10 mins or until the paneer is starting to turn golden at the edges. Remove from the oven and scatter coriander over the top of each naan. Stir the yogurt and mango chutney together to make a dip to serve alongside the naans.
Everyday Spicy chilli bean soup 61p per serving
Cheat’s chicken ramen £2.73 per serving
Satisfying soups
Roasted sweet potato & carrot soup £1.05 per serving September 2015
Four easy recipes to take you from late summer into cooler evenings Recipes CHELSIE COLLINS Photographs ROB STREETER
Beetroot soup with feta, radish & croutons £1.71 per serving bbcgoodfood.com
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Everyday Cheat’s chicken ramen
Spicy chilli bean soup
LOW EASY LOW FAT CAL
EASY
SERVES 4 PREP 10 mins COOK 15-20 mins
SERVES 4 PREP 10 mins COOK 40 mins
1.2 litres/2 pints good-quality chicken stock small pack coriander, stalks and leaves separated 1 red chilli (deseeded if you don’t like it too hot), sliced 2 tbsp light soy sauce 100g/4oz grey oyster mushrooms, sliced 100g pack baby pak choi 2 skinless cooked chicken breasts, sliced 100g/4oz egg noodles 50g/2oz sliced bamboo shoots
1 tbsp olive oil 1 large onion, fnely chopped 1 garlic clove, crushed 1 tbsp tomato purée 1 tsp mild chilli powder 1 /2 tsp ground cumin 400g can chopped tomatoes 500ml/18f oz vegetable stock 400g can mixed beans, drained and rinsed 1 red pepper, cut into chunky dice tortilla chips, to serve 4 lime wedges, to serve
PER SERVING energy 255 kcals • fat 5g • saturates 2g • carbs 20g • sugars 2g • fibre 4g • protein 30g • salt 2.4g
Beetroot soup with feta, radish & croutons EASY
EASY
soup only SERVES 4 PREP 20 mins plus 2 hrs chilling (optional) COOK 50-55 mins
1 Heat 1 tbsp oil in a large saucepan and add the chopped onion, frying for 5 mins until slightly softened. Add the garlic, stirring to combine for 1 min, then toss in the beetroot and cook for 15 mins. 2 Pour in the stock and bring to the boil. Once boiling, reduce the heat and simmer uncovered for 30 mins or until the beetroot is tender. Season well and leave to cool a little before blending.
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PER SERVING energy 157 kcals • fat 4g • saturates none • carbs 18g • sugars 10g • fibre 9g • protein 8g • salt 0.5g
Roasted sweet potato & carrot soup
LOW FOLATE FIBRE IRON 2 OF 5 FAT A DAY
2 tbsp olive oil 1 large onion, fnely chopped 2 garlic cloves, crushed 1kg/2lb 4oz fresh beetroot, peeled and diced (wear rubber gloves to stop your hands turning pink) 1.5 litres/23/4 pints vegetable stock 1 /2 small loaf sourdough, diced into large croutons 100g/4oz radishes, fnely sliced 100g/4oz feta, crumbled
1 Heat the oil in a deep saucepan and fry the chopped onion over a medium heat until tender. Add the garlic and tomato purée, stirring for 1-2 mins until combined. Sprinkle in the spices and cook for another 1 min. 2 Tip in the chopped tomatoes, half fll the can with water, and add to the
pan. Pour in the stock and simmer on a medium heat for 10-15 mins, uncovered. Season, then whizz using a hand blender until smooth. Add the beans and red pepper, and cook for another 15 mins until the pepper is tender. 3 Serve in bowls topped with a small pile of tortilla chips and a lime wedge.
OF 5 FIBRE 2 A DAY
SERVES 4 PREP 15 mins COOK 35 mins
3 Meanwhile, heat the grill to high and put the sourdough croutons on a baking sheet drizzled with the remaining 1 tbsp oil and toast until golden. Whizz the soup until smooth using a hand blender. 4 If serving the soup chilled, leave to cool completely and chill for a couple of hrs before serving. If serving hot, warm through in the pan for 2-3 mins. Serve in bowls or mugs with the croutons, radishes and crumbled feta scattered over. PER SERVING energy 403 kcals • fat 13g • saturates 4g • carbs 52g • sugars 25g • fibre 11g • protein 15g • salt 2.9g
500g/1lb 2oz sweet potatoes, peeled and cut into chunks 300g/11oz carrots, peeled and cut into chunks 3 tbsp olive oil 2 onions, fnely chopped 2 garlic cloves, crushed 1 litre/13/4 pints vegetable stock 100ml/31/2f oz crème fraîche, plus extra to serve
1 Heat oven to 220C/200C fan/ gas 7 and put the sweet potatoes and carrots into a large roasting tin, drizzled with 2 tbsp olive oil and plenty of seasoning. Roast the veg in the oven for 25-30 mins or until caramelised and tender. 2 Meanwhile, put the remaining 1 tbsp olive oil in a large deep saucepan and fry the onion over a medium-low heat for about 10 mins until softened. Add the garlic and stir for 1 min before adding the stock.
bbcgoodfood.com
Simmer for 5-10 mins until the onions are very soft, then set aside. 3 Once the roasted veg is done, leave to cool a little, then transfer to the saucepan and use a hand blender to process until smooth. Stir in the crème fraîche, a little more seasoning and reheat until hot. Serve in bowls topped with a swirl of crème fraîche and a good grinding of black pepper. PER SERVING energy 419 kcals • fat 19g • saturates 8g • carbs 45g • sugars 27g • fibre 10g • protein 11g • salt 0.9g
September 2015
Food styling NANCY McDOUGALL
1 Set a large saucepan over a medium heat and pour in the stock. Finely chop the coriander stalks and add to the stock with most of the chilli. Bring to the boil and add 200ml water. Once boiled, reduce the heat and simmer for 5-10 mins to infuse the coriander and chilli.
2 Add the soy sauce and a grinding of black pepper, then the mushrooms, pak choi, chicken and noodles. Simmer for 2 mins until the noodles soften, before adding the bamboo shoots. 3 Serve in deep bowls topped with coriander leaves and the remaining chilli slices.
LOW FIBRE VIT C 3 OF 5 GOOD FAT A DAY 4 YOU
CANNY COOK TO THE RESCUE
Lunchbox SOS
Stuck in a lunchbox rut? This month Cassie Best, our Canny Cook, helps a family who are looking for fresh, exciting ideas that can be packed up to take to school and work Photographs ROB STREETER
Canny Cook’s solution
Meet our family Nadine and Darren Batstone live in St Albans with their daughters, Estelle, Darcey and Amelie. Nadine Nadine, who works in a health-food shop, is studying for a diploma in nutrition. Her mornings are busy, as she gets the girls ready for school, Darren so she often takes breakfast to work to eat in her break. She avoids dairy and tries to eat healthily. Darren, a barber, is on his feet all day, and Estelle, 15 feels really hungry when he takes his break around 2pm. Estelle needs something flling to get her through afternoon classes, Darcey, eight while Darcey and Amelie like to eat bite-sized food in their lunch break. Nadine says: ‘Darren and I make lunchboxes for all of Amelie, seven us most days, but we have different requirements, so it’s tricky to think of ideas. We’d love some new recipes.’
With different tastes and lifestyles, a one-sarnie-suits-all approach won’t work. But by creating a lunchbox to look forward to, it can be the most exciting meal of the day. The secret is to prepare one or two items the night before, and fll the rest of your lunchbox with some of the easy-to-grab additions that I’ve suggested.
FOR DARCEY & AMELIE Don’t be too ambitious; keep lunchboxes simple with a few pieces of fruit and veg, chopped into bite-sized pieces. Add protein – dairy, meat or pulses. This will maintain energy levels in the afternoon, and keep their brains ticking over.
Cheese, ham & grape kebabs If you have very young children, chop off the sharp end of the wooden skewer, or make this into a simple salad and serve it with a fork. EASY GLUTEN FREE
SERVES 1 PREP 10 mins NO COOK
Using 3 short wooden skewers, thread on 6 mini mozzarella balls (bocconcini), 6 grapes (a combination of red and green looks nice), and 6 cubes of ham. Place in a sealable container or wrap in cling flm and pop in a lunchbox. PER SERVING energy 298 kcals • fat 19g • saturates 12g • carbs 2g • sugars 2g • fibre none • protein 30g • salt 2.8g
Nutty cinnamon & yogurt dipper EASY
GLUTEN FREE
SERVES 1 PREP 5 mins NO COOK
In a small tub, mix together 100g natural Greek yogurt, 1 tbsp nut butter (try almond or cashew), 1/4 tsp ground cinnamon and 1 tsp honey. Serve with apple wedges (tossed in a little lemon juice to prevent them turning brown), celery or carrot sticks, and mini rice cakes or crackers. PER SERVING energy 250 kcals • fat 18g • saturates 8g • carbs 14g • sugars 10g • fibre none • protein 8g • salt 0.2g
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AMELIE SAYS ‘I usually have houmous in my lunchbox, but I really liked this sweet dip for a change.’
DARCEY SAYS ‘The kebabs had some of my favourite things on them. Mum made them again the next day, but we swapped the grapes for pineapple.’
I’M STILL HUNGRY! Add 2 or 3 of these: n 50g edamame beans (podded for very young children) n small handful dried apricots or sultanas n small pot of jelly n 1 small satsuma n 1 boiled egg
September 2015
Everyday
NADINE’S FOOD ON THE GO Eating regular meals during the day fills you up and prevents an afternoon slump – and reaching for that sweet treat at 3pm.
Pear, nut & blackberry bircher EASY
OF 5 FIBRE 2 A DAY
SERVES 1 PREP 10 mins plus 1 hr chilling COOK 2 mins
Grate 1 small ripe pear (skin, pips and all) and scoop the pulp and any juice on the chopping board into a small sealable container or jam jar with a tight-ftting lid. Add 4 tbsp rolled oats, 1/4 tsp cinnamon and 100g Greek yogurt or soy yogurt. Stir well. Toast 4-6 macadamia nuts in a dry frying pan for 2 mins. Chop the nuts, then sprinkle over the bircher with a small handful of blackberries and pomegranate seeds. Place in the fridge for at least 1 hr to chill, or overnight, before eating. PER SERVING energy 493 kcals • fat 21g • saturates 7g • carbs 53g • sugars 19g • fibre 11g • protein 16g • salt 0.1g
Sunshine Cobb salad LOW 4 OF 5 GOOD EASY LOW FAT CAL FOLATE FIBRE VIT C A DAY 4 YOU GLUTEN FREE
SERVES 2 PREP 20 mins COOK 10 mins
1 large egg 400g can black beans, drained and rinsed 1 red, orange or yellow pepper, deseeded and diced thumb-sized piece cucumber, diced 8 cherry tomatoes, halved 198g can sweetcorn, drained 150g pack cooked prawns handful of watercress FOR THE CHILLI-LIME DRESSING 1 red chilli, deseeded and fnely chopped zest and juice 1 lime 1 tbsp white wine vinegar 2 tsp clear honey 1 tbsp extra virgin olive or rapeseed oil
1 Bring a small pan of water to the boil. Add the egg and cook for 8 mins. Drain, then run under cold water to cool. 2 To assemble the salad, arrange the remaining ingredients in 2 containers. When the egg is cool, peel and quarter it and divide between the containers too. 3 Mix together the dressing ingredients in a small bowl and transfer to 2 mini jars or containers to take with the salads to work. Dress and toss together just before eating. PER SERVING energy 463 kcals • fat 11g • saturates 2g • carbs 55g • sugars 22g • fibre 12g • protein 30g • salt 1.7g
September 2015
Afternoon pick-me-up smoothie 1 OF 5 GLUTEN EASY CALCIUM FIBRE A DAY FREE
SERVES 2 (700ml/11/4pts) PREP 5 mins NO COOK
In a blender, whizz 500ml unsweetened almond milk with 2 tbsp almond butter, 6 prunes, 1 tsp cinnamon and 1 small ripe banana. Transfer to 2 bottles and chill until ready to drink, or pack for lunch on the go. They will keep in the fridge for 2 days.
GRAB A SNACK n 2 slices of fruity malt loaf n small pot of olives n 2 kiwi fruits n coconut macaroon n cottage cheese with wholegrain crackers
PER SERVING energy 250 kcals • fat 11g • saturates 1g • carbs 29g • sugars 22g • fibre 5g • protein 5g • salt 0.3g
NADINE SAYS ‘This was the best breakfast and lunch I’ve had in ages. The salad made enough for two days, which saved a lot of time. The afternoon smoothie was a much better option than my usual chocolate fix.’
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Everyday TEENAGER’S LUNCHBOX A hearty, brain-boosting lunch.
Turkey, bacon & avo mini bagels 1 OF 5 EASY A DAY
BIG APPETITE? Add a few of these: n small bag of popcorn n small pot of houmous and homemade pitta chips (find a recipe at bbcgoodfood.com) n banana n granola bar n wasabi peas
SERVES 1 PREP 10 mins NO COOK 1
/2 small, ripe avocado, peeled few drops lemon juice 2 mini bagels, split in half 1 tbsp cranberry sauce 50g/2oz sliced cooked turkey or chicken 4 slices crispy cooked bacon handful baby spinach or rocket leaves
Mash the avocado with the lemon juice and a pinch of salt. Spread 2 bagel halves with cranberry sauce and 2 with avocado. Top the avocado halves with the turkey, bacon and leaves, then sandwich together with the cranberry halves. Wrap in cling flm and chill until lunchtime. PER SERVING energy 535 kcals • fat 21g • saturates 5g • carbs 58g • sugars 13g • fibre 4g • protein 27g • salt 3.9g
EASY
MAKES ABOUT 18 PREP 15 mins NO COOK
100g/4oz pitted Medjool dates 100g/4oz pecan nuts 50g/2oz pumpkin seeds 50g/2oz rolled oats 4 tbsp cacao powder or unsweetened cocoa 2 heaped tbsp almond butter zest and juice 1 orange
Place all the ingredients and 3 tbsp orange juice in a food processor. Blitz until chopped and starting to clump together. If it’s a bit dry, add a drop more orange juice. Roll the mixture into walnut-sized balls with lightly oiled hands. Pop 2 or 3 into a lunchbox for a snack. Keeps in a sealed container for 2 weeks in the fridge. PER SERVING energy 99 kcals • fat 6g • saturates 1g • carbs 7g • sugars 4g • fibre 2g • protein 3g • salt none
STILL GOT THE MUNCHIES? Add some of these: n 2 plums n handful of beef jerky n handful of pretzels n small bar of dark chocolate n small smoothie
DARREN’S SATISFYING LUNCH Dad Darren often gets home late with little appetite, so eating his main meal at lunch works best.
Spicy merguez & couscous pot OF 5 EASY FIBRE VIT C 3 A DAY
These go really well with the Spicy merguez & couscous pot.
SERVES 2 PREP 15 mins COOK 30 mins EASY
ESTELLE SAYS ‘I liked having two small bagels instead of one large one – I had one at first break, then one at lunch. And I shared the energy boosters with my friends before PE in the afternoon.’
drizzle of olive oil 4 merguez sausages (about 250g/9oz) 1 /2 preserved lemon, peel only, chopped 1 red onion, chopped 1 fat red chilli, deseeded and fnely chopped 1 red pepper, deseeded and chopped 1 tbsp ras el hanout 400g can chopped tomatoes with olives 1 chicken stock cube handful of coriander, fnely chopped 100g/4oz couscous
1 Heat the oil in a pan. Squeeze the sausagemeat from the skins and shape into 8 meatballs. Add them to the pan and sizzle on a medium-high heat for 5-10 mins, rolling around the pan, until they are cooked. Set aside. 2 Drain the fat from the pan, leaving 1 tbsp behind. Reduce the heat and add the lemon, onion, chilli and pepper. Stir for 5 mins. Add the ras el hanout and stir for 1 min more. 3 Add the tomatoes and 300ml water, and crumble in the stock cube. Return the meatballs to the pan and simmer, covered with a lid, for 10-15 mins, until the sauce is rich and the veg are tender. Season and stir in the coriander. Transfer to 2 microwavable containers with tight-ftting lids, and chill until you’re ready to eat. Weigh 50g couscous into 2 sandwich bags to take to work too. 4 When you’re ready to eat, add the couscous to the cold sauce. Stir well and microwave for 3 mins, until the couscous is cooked through. PER SERVING energy 552 kcals • fat 26g • saturates 10g • carbs 49g • sugars 16g • fibre 7g • protein 27g • salt 3.9g
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Courgette & feta muffns
bbcgoodfood.com
MAKES 9 PREP 15 mins COOK 20 mins
200g/7oz self-raising four 1 tsp baking powder 1 /2 tsp bicarbonate of soda 1 /2 tsp cumin seeds 1 large egg 150ml/1/4 pint buttermilk 5 tbsp sunfower oil 1 small courgette (about 140g/5oz) grated and squeezed to remove any liquid 100g/4oz feta, crumbled
1 Heat oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6 and line 9 holes of a muffn tray with paper cases. In a bowl, combine the four, baking powder, bicarbonate of soda, cumin and 1/4 tsp salt. 2 In a jug, whisk together the egg, buttermilk and oil. Pour the wet ingredients into the dry, and add the courgette and half the feta. Stir to just combine, but don’t overmix. 3 Divide the mixture between the muffn cases, and top with the remaining feta. Bake for 18-20 mins until golden brown. A skewer inserted to the centre of a muffn should come out clean and dry when the muffns are cooked. Cool on a wire rack. Will keep for 2 days in an airtight container. PER SERVING energy 178 kcals • fat 9g • saturates 2g • carbs 17g • sugars 7g • fibre 1g • protein 5g • salt 0.9g
DARREN SAYS ‘The spicy lunch pot kept me going all day, which was great as I could have something small for dinner in the evening. The muffins were unusual, but I enjoyed them.’ September 2015
Food styling NANCY McDOUGALL
Choc-orange energy boosters
DOING THE SAME THING FOR 200 YEARS MAY SEEM DULL. BUT IT ENSURES OUR MUSTARD NEVER IS. The way we make it says it all.
Inside the
Kitchen Cabinet Natalie Hardwick goes behind the scenes as BBC Radio 4’s popular culinary panel show hits the road
adio 4’s The Kitchen Cabinet is a travelling food panel show that’s part cookbook, part chat with friends around the dining table. Presented by food writer Jay Rayner (right), the 30-minute show attracts 1.8 million listeners every week. So how does the team create this winning formula? We joined them in Nottingham to fnd out.
R
4.30pm
Get to the set
The production team arrives at the Lakeside Arts Centre. Over 10 series, shows have been recorded in locations as varied as a Suffolk RAF base and a Welsh food festival. ‘Everywhere has a food culture,’ says producer Victoria Shepherd. Scripts are put together after research, then given to Jay to curate. The shows are recorded a few days ahead of broadcast, giving producers time to edit. Victoria explains how they chose this week’s themes – cave-aged ingredients, as Nottingham has a cave network, and fairground food, including mushy peas, a signature dish at the Goose Fair, which is over 700 years old. 5pm
The panel turn up
The show has around a dozen regular panellists; this week’s quartet is food historian Annie Gray, chefs Sophie Wright and Rob Owen Brown, and restaurateur Henry Dimbleby. Annie turns up brandishing a huge pease pudding ball (a savoury dish traditionally made from dried peas). The panel usually taste something during the show, and Annie referred to her history books to create a startling bombe in keeping with the show’s pea theme. 5.30pm
Soundcheck
We head to the theatre where the production crew check microphones. Jay and the panel record some casual conversation for the iPlayer download. The atmosphere is noisy and electric.
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BEST BITES THE MANCHESTER EGG Producer Darby says: ‘Before Rob was a panellist, he was a guest at the Manchester recording and brought in a Manchester egg – a pickled egg covered in black pudding and rolled in crisps.’
6pm
Audience arrives
As they enter, audience members are given slips detailing the subject matters, prompting them to ask questions and share anecdotes. 6.15pm
Run-through
Victoria goes through the themes with the panel – only the production team and Jay have a script, so that the shows sound more fuid. Victoria explains that one local guest will be Ray, a man who makes Nottingham cock-on-a-stick fairground lollies – cue much tittering. ‘Get it out of your systems now,’ groans Jay. 6.30pm
Question selection
Jay and Victoria select the questions. Some contributions need reworking but Jay says that, despite being on the 63rd show, they still get original questions. Just before everyone heads in to the recording, Jay gives the panel a fnal rundown. 7pm
Recording
Jay pops on his headphones. While steering the panel disussion, speaking to the audience and watching a timer, he also has Victoria talking in his ear from a van outside. ‘Jay’s excellent at
taking talkback – it’s a fne art,’ says producer Darby Dorras. What’s Jay’s technique? ‘I am prepared to zone out slightly on the panel. And know that at times it’s my job to sit quietly and take stock. It’s about laying track ahead of you.’ At the end, he goes back to re-record some sections after a few blips. ‘We don’t mind it not being perfect,’ says Victoria. ‘People like seeing how it’s recorded.’ Although the show is prerecorded, Jay is encouraged to stick as close to 30 minutes as possible. ‘If you overrun and have to edit it down, it can sound rushed,’ says Victoria. 7.50pm
Meet the experts
After the recording, everyone is invited down to the stage to sample the food and chat to the panel. 9pm
Debrief on the train
The panel boards the train back to London. Jay is stopped and snapped by a fan. ‘The positivity towards Kitchen Cabinet is high,’ he says. ‘It’s the only thing I’ve done that’s had a 98% approval rate.’
THE SPRAT CATCHER Henry says: ‘My favourite story was a guy describing how he catches sprats on the South East coast – he drops the net then spins the boat around. Once every three months he catches a shoal of anchovies, which is worth a fortune.’ SPOON SCIENCE The team loved it when materials scientist Zoe Laughlin took part. Victoria says: ‘She came with her own set of spoons in different materials, and the panel tested which spoon tasted best – gold was the favourite.’
The Kitchen Cabinet returns to Radio 4 on Saturday 29 August at 10.30am, or catch up on BBC iPlayer Radio
bbcgoodfood.com
September 2015
Good reads
LEFT Producer Victoria, Jay and the crew run through the script ABOVE Jay reads questions from the audience
ABOVE Annie’s enormous pease pudding ball LEFT Natalie (far right) meets the panel, Henry, Sophie, Rob, Annie and Jay
On the panel Rob Owen Brown The Mancunian chef specialises in hearty food with a nose-to-tail approach.
Annie Gray The buoyant food historian’s knowledge extends back to the 1600s. She’s been on the show since it started in 2012.
Sophie Wright The East End-born chef has bags of knowledge and charm. She regularly appears on food programmes and has written three cookbooks.
Henry Dimbleby The food writer and founder of restaurant chain Leon has a sharp wit and an impressive bank of knowledge.
ABOVE Jay and producer Darby Dorras discuss the show on the train back to London
September 2015
bbcgoodfood.com
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CAN’T FACE ANY KIND OF POTATO FOR DINNER AGAIN THIS WEEK?
WE’VE GOT A RICE FOR THAT.
Monday: chips. Tuesday: jackets. Wednesday: mash. Thursday: arrrghhh! Our wide range of Heat and Eat dishes provide a tasty change and help you to just say no to spuds. After all, variety is the spice of life.
For recipe ideas from Moscow to Marrakech visit www.wevegotariceforthat.com
Good reads
No time for
lunch?
Thirties’ offce workers enjoy their midday break
As the majority of us now take only 20 minutes or so to eat it – often at our desk or on the go – food historian Annie Gray charts the changing fortunes of one of our more modern meals
L
unch has always been something of a secondary meal. The main event has always been dinner – the meal you invite people to, the meal you lavish time on, the focal point of the day. The timing of dinner has changed through history. A Tudor, who rose early, would have eaten it at about 10am. By 1700, the court was dining at 2pm. During the 18th century, dinner moved later and, by 1800, the upper classes were dining as late as 7pm. That late hour, with breakfast before 9am, left a gap. This was partly flled with tea and bread or cake (which would evolve into afternoon tea), but at the beginning of the 19th century, a new meal was introduced. Known as nuncheon, noonshine, nooning or luncheon – as the names suggest, it was held around midday and consisted of light dishes and leftovers, mainly served cold. It was similar to supper, which was often served in the evening, back when dinner was during the day.
Supper, lunch, dinner, tea – there’s still confusion about what meal we are eating. But not everyone took to the fashionable late dinner. It didn’t ft with established rural working patterns, when the main meal was eaten during the hottest part of the day, and workers aimed to be in bed after an early supper. Outside London, and other centres of fashion, dinner remained at around midday. The disparity between urban and rural, upper middle and lower is illustrated by novelist Elizabeth Gaskell in the opening of North and South (1855). Margaret Hale, the heroine, is at home with her family in Hampshire when her would-be suitor, Henry Lennox, arrives from London. Margaret’s mother is completely thrown: ‘It is most unfortunate! We are dining early today, and having nothing but cold meat, in order that the servants may get on with their ironing; and yet, of course, we must ask him to dinner.’ Margaret replies: ‘Never mind the dinner, dear mamma. Cold meat will
Photograph EO HOPPE/CORBIS
Supper, lunch, dinner, tea – there’s still confusion about what meal we are eating
September 2015
bbcgoodfood.com
LOVE YOUR LUNCH We asked Good Food readers: what’s your favourite homemade packed lunch? SANDWICHES 43% SOUP 18% SALAD 17% LEFTOVERS 12% QUICHE/PIE 3%
What do you do for lunch? We’d love to know – contact us at the address on p145
do capitally for a lunch, which is the light in which Mr Lennox will most likely look upon a two-o-clock dinner.’ Even at the end of the Victorian period, meal times were not set. The working classes had dinner at midday, and supper in the evening. In country houses, mealtime terminology effectively enforced class divisions: downstairs, dinner was around the time of upstairs lunch, while upstairs, dinner was served around 8pm, before the servants had supper. If you ate ‘lunch’, you were almost certainly middle or upper class. Men – and the women who had joined the workforce – probably worked in an offce. You took your time over lunch, which formed a break in your day and let you meet with colleagues or friends. Non-working women tended to lunch at home, while men ate at clubs or work-related venues. So where will lunch go from here? Health experts claim that our culture of long hours, with little or no break in our day, is unproductive and leads to increased levels of stress. It’s not diffcult to be inventive, whether it’s through modern street food options or creative use of homemade packed lunches. We just need to give ourselves the time to eat them. As a food historian, I think there’s always something to learn from the past. In this case, I’d urge us all to revive our leisurely noontime break. Cold beef and pickles anyone? Annie Gray is a regular panellist on BBC Radio 4’s The Kitchen Cabinet – turn to page 56 to read more about the series.
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NEC BIRMINGHAM 26 - 29 NOVEMBER
ry Mary Be
Britain’s tastiest day out Top British chefs, the best British flavours
T
he BBC Good Food Show Winter is all about those warming flavours and tasty treats that make winter every foodie’s favourite time of year. It’s also about celebrating Britain’s own culinary talents, from the impressive cookery displays from Britain’s best chefs, to the huge range of home-grown producers and their top quality food and drink, traditional delicacies and local specialities. Enjoy the tastiest way to get warmed up for the festive season with a visit to the Show this November.
SAVE 20%*
Book early for the best price! Save 20%* on tickets when you book before 29 Sept. Quote GFR20.
With thanks to our sponsors and supporters:
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Deliciously British
Local delicacies
Top quality British produce you’ll discover at the Show this year includes quintessentially British desserts from Burtree Puddings, traditional British bloomers from Hindley’s Bakery, a whole new breed of teas from Bluebird Tea mixologists, and truly artisanal spirits from Sipsmiths, to name but a few!
Explore the Ludlow Producer Market at the Show and find a host of local flavours and regional delicacies to try and buy. Bringing together a showcase of independent food and drink producers from Ludlow and the Marches, it’s a great place to pick up interesting products and get a real taste of the region.
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‘A great day out for food lovers, delicious samples, great products and atmosphere!’ 2014 visitor
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ywod
Best of British talent Britain is blessed with some of the world’s greatest chefs and here’s your chance to see them creating their iconic dishes live on stage! Include a session in the Supertheatre, sponsored by Kenwood as part of your day and be wowed by Britain’s best chefs, including Tom Kerridge, James Martin, the Hairy Bikers, Paul Hollywood and Mary Berry.
Top notch cheeses
Award-winning producers
Festive inspiration
The World Cheese Awards return to the Show this year. The crown came back to Britain in 2014 as The Bath Soft Cheese Co. scooped the coveted Champion Cheese title for its Bath Blue variety; see how they do this year as over 250 experts judge the awards from around 3,000 entries live at the Show on Friday.
Organised by the UK’s Guild of Fine Food, Great Taste is an acknowledged mark of quality awarded to fantastic products from British speciality producers who care about the quality of the food and drink they make. So you’re bound to discover something special in the Great Taste market at the Show this year.
From turkey carving masterclasses and festive themed cookery demonstrations on the Winter Kitchen, to picking up the latest cook books and perfect stocking fillers for the food lover in your life, you’ll never be more ready for a delicious festive season than after a day at the BBC Good Food Show Winter.
Tickets from £19.80 with 20% off * saving £4.95 bbcgoodfoodshow.com | 0844 581 1345
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*20% off valid on advance Adult and Over 65s tickets only (excluding VIP). Offer expires midnight 29.09.15. £19.80 is based on a discounted advance Adult Super ticket, Thurs, Fri & Sunday, saving £4.95 (Sat discounted tickets cost £20.60, saving £5.15). Standard Supertheatre seat included with all advance Super tickets, subject to availability. Upgrade to Gold seat for £3 extra. 20% discount also available on Value tickets which exclude Supertheatre, entry from 11am only. Prices include all admin and transactional fees. Not valid with any other offer. Calls to 0844 581 1345 cost 7p per minute plus your phone company’s access charge. Not all celebrities appear on all days, check the website for details. The Good Food word mark and logo are trademarks of BBC Worldwide Limited. Copyright BBC Worldwide Limited. The BBC Good Food Shows are organised and presented by River Street Events.
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OLYMPIA LONDON 13 - 15 NOVEMBER
Tom Keridg
in James Mart
The capital’s cuisine First-class entertainment, fine food and drink
J
oin a stellar line up of chefs this November for London’s greatest celebration of good food. Tom Kerridge, James Martin, Mary Berry, Paul Hollywood and the legendary Michel Roux Jr. are all taking to the Supertheatre sponsored by Kenwood, as well as appearing around the Show in live interviews and book signing sessions. With so much else to explore at the Show, and free entry to the BBC Good Food Bakes & Cakes Show included with every ticket*, the BBC Good Food Show London really is the tastiest day out in the capital!
SAVE 20%*
Book early for the best price! Save 20%* on tickets when you book before 29 Sept. Quote GFR20.
With thanks to our sponsors and supporters:
Show sponsor
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Sample the restaurant scene
Taste local f lavours
Back by popular demand, the Pop-Up Restaurant & Street Food Experience returns for 2015. Try dishes from some of the capital’s very best restaurants including Blue Elephant, Café Spice Namasté and our very own BBC Good Food Kitchen. Plus sample street food offerings inspired by London’s most popular vendors too.
There’s plenty more to try and taste as you explore the Show. Sample award-winning treats from around the UK in the Great Taste markets, head to the NEW Craft Beer corner to try traditional ales from home-grown breweries, or discover a love of wine in true London style at the drinks cabinet.
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s Even more inspiration Stop by the bigger and better Winter Kitchen this year to see up-and-coming chefs and renowned cooks alike creating seasonal dishes live. Hear more from your cooking heroes on the Interview Stage sponsored by Lakeland, as they share their top tips and answer questions from the audience.
A shopper’s dream Meet the people behind the produce as you chat to over 150 speciality and artisan producers showcasing their unique food and drink items, alongside your favourite brands and must-have kitchen gadgets too. Make the most of Show only special offers as you discover great new flavours.
2 Shows for the price of 1
T First class entertainment
he BBC Good Food Bakes & Cakes Show is back in a new home as part of the BBC Good Food Show London at Olympia. It’s the only baking show in the UK to be joined by both Mary Berry and Paul Hollywood; don’t miss your chance to see your favourite baking live in the Supertheatre!
Experience the buzz of live entertainment in the sensational Supertheatre - it’s sure to be one of the highlights of your day. Watch your favourite chefs creating mouth-watering dishes live on stage as they show off their culinary skills and share their top tips for entertaining friends with great food at home, just in time to help you prep for a showstopping festive season.
Enjoy more live demos from the best bakers in the business on the Bakes & Cakes Stage sponsored by Magimix with stars including Mich Turner and John Whaite, or learn new skills by taking part in masterclasses and hands-on tutorial sessions around the Show for no extra cost.
Mic Turnr
Tickets from £21.20 with 20% off *, saving £5.30 bbcgoodfoodshow.com | 0844 581 1345
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*20% off valid on advance Adult and Over 65s tickets only (excluding VIP). Offer ends midnight 29.09.15. £21.20 is based on a discounted advance Adult Super ticket, Fri & Sunday, saving £5.30 (Sat discounted tickets cost £22, saving £5.50). Standard Supertheatre seat included with all advance Super tickets subject to availability. Upgrade to a Gold seat for £3 extra. 20% discount also available on Value tickets, which exclude Supertheatre, entry from 11am only. BBC Good Food Bakes & Cakes Show runs alongside BBC Good Food Show London and tickets include entry to both shows, subject to capacity. Prices include all transactional and admin fees. Not valid with any other offer. Calls to 0844 581 1345 cost 7p per minute plus your phone company’s access charge. Not all celebrities appear on all days, check website for details. The Good Food word mark and logo are trademarks of BBC Worldwide Limited. Copyright BBC Worldwide Limited. The BBC Good Food Shows are organised and presented by River Street Events.
e John Wai
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enjoy Shloer Light, the delightfully easy-going alcohol alternative with no added sugar
Shloer Light contains absolutely no added sugar and is free from preservatives, artificial colours and flavourings. With 22 calories per 100ml, it’s the perfect choice for your light little gathering. Available now from retailers nationwide shloer.co.uk
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Weekend Relaxed cooking for family and friends
• James Martin’s barbecue menu • Curried lamb for a crowd • Bake a great British biscuit! • Lebanese meze supper for two
September 2015
bbcgoodfood.com
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uid salad lime sq & i l l i Ch
MENU Chilli & lime squid salad Barbecued fillet of beef & mustardy soured cream sauce Foil-wrapped baby potatoes Charred spring onions Herby corn off the cobs in brown butter sauce Chargrilled pineapple colada
Dinner at dusk Invite friends over for a stylish barbecue created exclusively for Good Food by James Martin, host of BBC One’s Saturday Kitchen
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September 2015
Weekend
‘I love eating outdoors with friends, and cooking a whole meal on the barbecue is a great way to make the most of late summer days’
Bar mu becued star dy s fillet o f our ed c beef & rea ms auc e September 2015
bbcgoodfood.com
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Barbecued fllet of beef with mustardy soured cream sauce
Foil-wrapped baby potatoes EASY
EASY IRON GLUTEN FREE
GOOD GLUTEN 4 YOU FREE
SERVES 6 PREP 5 mins COOK 15 mins
SERVES 6 PREP 5 mins COOK 10-12 mins
1.5kg/3lb 5oz beef fllet (ask your butcher to trim off any excess fat) 2 tbsp olive oil 2 garlic cloves, bashed black peppercorns, crushed small bunch of thyme 300ml/1/2 pt soured cream 3 tbsp wholegrain mustard
Chilli & lime squid salad This salad is so simple to make and packed with flavour. You can leave the squid to marinate in the fridge overnight, then toss it on the barbecue or in a hot griddle pan three minutes before serving, making this an easy go-to starter when entertaining guests. 1 OF 5 EASY VIT C A DAY
Preparing squid A fshmonger will usually prepare squid for you, but if you buy it whole, there’s a handy video guide at bbcgoodfood.com showing how to do it at home.
SERVES 6 PREP 15 mins plus 1 hr marinating COOK about 3 mins
3 red chillies, halved, deseeded and fnely diced 2 tbsp garlic-infused olive oil, plus extra to serve 2 whole squid tubes about 400g/14oz, cleaned and prepared (see tip, right) 2 large ripe avocados, stoned, peeled and sliced 100g/4oz rocket 3 limes, halved 3 tbsp crispy onions (I used Fresh Gourmet crispy onions)
1 Mix two-thirds of the chillies and the garlic-infused oil in a large bowl and add the squid. Cover with cling flm and leave them to marinate for at least 1 hr or overnight in the fridge. 2 Just before serving, heat the barbecue or a griddle pan. Combine the avocado slices with the rocket. Divide between 6 small plates or bowls. 3 When the barbecue is hot or your griddle pan almost smoking, add the limes, cut-side down. Tip on the squid, pressing lightly with the back of a fsh slice to create charred lines. When the squid feels slightly frm, about 1 min 30 secs into cooking, turn over and press down with the fsh slice again, cooking for another 1 min 30 secs or until the squid feels frm. Remove and place on a board. 4 Slice the squid into 1-2cm tubes and top each salad with a few tubes and some crispy onions. Serve half a charred lime on the side for squeezing over, with the remaining chilli scattered over and a drizzle of garlic oil. PER SERVING energy 293 kcals • fat 24g • saturates 4g • carbs 5g • sugars 1g • fibre 3g • protein 13g • salt 0.3g
1 If your barbecue hasn’t already been heated, light and heat until the ashes turn grey, or heat a griddle pan. Rub the beef with 1 tbsp olive oil and the garlic, season well with salt, then coat each side with the crushed peppercorns. Put on the barbecue or in an almost smoking griddle pan. Brush the top with the rest of the oil using the thyme, then place the thyme on top. Once the underside is charred with a nice crust (about 5 mins), remove the thyme and set aside, turn the fllet over and cook for about 5 mins more. 2 Test the temperature of your fllet using a meat thermometer to make sure you don’t overcook it. For medium rare, you want it between 52-55C. Once at the desired temperature, remove the meat to a board, place the thyme and garlic on top and cover in foil. Leave to rest for about 5 mins. 3 Meanwhile, make the sauce by combining the soured cream and mustard in a bowl. Season and set aside. Transfer the beef to a clean board, slice into 2-3cm thick pieces and serve with the sauce. PER SERVING energy 501 kcals • fat 29g • saturates 13g • carbs 3g • sugars 2g • fibre 2g • protein 55g • salt 0.9g
Herby corn off the cobs in brown butter sauce EASY
W HAT TO DRINK Light and off-dry, Lo Abarca Riesling 2013, Chile, 12% (£10, Marks & Spencer), is a glorious way to start the meal. It’s perfect as a welcome aperitif, and also spot-on with the chilli squid. Follow on with a southern French red blend such as the deliciously savoury, dark-fruited Gérard Bertrand Saint Victor Languedoc Red 2013, 13% (£7.99, Morrisons).
1 OF 5 GLUTEN FOLATE A DAY FREE
SERVES 6 PREP 10 mins COOK 10-15 mins
140g/5oz butter, melted 2 garlic cloves, crushed 6 corn cobs small pack parsley, roughly chopped
1 Melt the butter in a small saucepan over a low heat. Once melted, add the garlic and turn up the heat to high until the butter starts bubbling and turning golden. As soon as the butter browns and smells biscuity, remove from the heat and transfer to a jug. 2 Heat the barbecue or a griddle pan. Add the corn cobs, and keep brushing with the garlic butter every time you turn them. Once charred and cooked, remove to a board. 3 Using a sharp knife, cut downwards to remove the kernels from each cob. Put all the corn in a serving dish and toss with the parsley. Coat in the remaining garlic butter and serve. PER SERVING energy 298 kcals • fat 21g • saturates 12g • carbs 20g • sugars 3g • fibre 3g • protein 4g • salt 0.4g
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750g/1lb 10oz miniature new potatoes 2 tbsp olive oil
1 If your barbecue hasn’t already been heated, light and heat until the ashes turn grey. Put the potatoes in a large saucepan of cold water and bring to the boil. Once boiling, cook for 5 mins until slightly tender. 2 Drain and leave to steam-dry for 2 mins. Transfer to a large sheet of foil, coat in the olive oil and season well. Make sure the potatoes are sitting fat against the foil so each one gets charred when grilled. Wrap in the foil like a parcel, and wrap again to ensure the potatoes are completely covered. Cook on the barbecue for 10 mins. 3 Check they are cooked by inserting a skewer into one of the potatoes. Carefully remove from the foil and serve in a dish alongside the beef & mustard sauce. PER SERVING energy 125 kcals • fat 4g • saturates 1g • carbs 19g • sugars 1g • fibre 2g • protein 2g • salt none
To cook in the oven You could also bake these baby potatoes in the oven. They won’t have the charred favour they get when you barbecue them, but if you cook them on a baking tray without covering in foil, you’ll get lovely crisp skins.
Charred spring onions EASY
LOW GOOD GLUTEN FAT 4 YOU FREE
SERVES 6 PREP 5 mins COOK 10-12 mins
If your barbecue hasn’t already been heated, light and heat until the ashes turn grey, or heat a griddle pan. Wash 2 bunches of spring onions (about 20) and pat dry. Trim off the ends, then place the onions directly on the barbecue or in a hot griddle pan. When the spring onions have softened and blackened, take off the heat and move to a hot spot on the barbecue top to keep warm. Serve with the beef, potatoes & mustard sauce. PER SERVING energy 9 kcals • fat none • saturates none • carbs 1g • sugars 1g • fibre 1g • protein 1g • salt none
Turn over for James’s exotic fruity pud…
September 2015
Weekend
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Herby corn off the cobs in brown butter sauce
Charred spring onions
September 2015
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Weekend Fresh pineapple, a bit of booze and creamy coconut ice cream – this pud will make you feel like you’re on a beach in the Caribbean. EASY
1 OF 5 GLUTEN VIT C A DAY FREE
SERVES 6 PREP 20 mins COOK 15 mins
140g/5oz golden caster sugar 3 tbsp white rum 50g/2oz coconut fakes 1 medium pineapple coconut ice cream and torn mint leaves to serve
1 Heat oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Put the sugar in a small saucepan with 280ml water. Dissolve the sugar over a low heat, then increase the heat to medium. Add the rum and boil the syrup for 3-4 mins until slightly thickened. Remove from the heat. 2 Put the coconut fakes on a large baking sheet and toast for about 5 mins until golden. Set aside to cool. 3 Fire up the barbecue or heat a griddle pan until almost smoking. Cut the pineapple lengthways into 6 slices with the skin and crown attached. Using a pastry brush, brush most of the rum syrup over the pineapple and cook for 3-5 mins on each side (or until charred). Transfer to a plate to cool.
4 When ready to serve, put the pineapple slices on a large platter and slice into chunks leaving them on the pineapple skin, then drizzle over the remaining syrup. Top with scoops of coconut ice cream, the toasted coconut fakes and mint leaves. PER SERVING energy 331 kcals • fat 8g • saturates 7g • carbs 57g • sugars 54g • fibre 3g • protein 3g • salt 0.1g
Want to get ahead? The rum syrup and toasted coconut fakes can be prepared the day before. On the day you want to eat it, barbecue the pineapple before preparing the starter or main course and set aside until ready to serve. You can use any leftover rum syrup in a sweet cocktail.
James Martin will be appearing at the BBC Good Food Shows in Glasgow, London and Birmingham in November. Turn to p60 for details or visit bbcgoodfoodshow.com
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September 2015
Food styling JENNIFER JOYCE | Styling REBECCA NEWPORT| What to drink SARAH JANE EVANS MW
Chargrilled pineapple colada
Cake Club Seasonal fgs are the stars of the show in this sensational spiced cake, which makes an impressive centrepiece Recipe CASSIE BEST Photographs WILL HEAP
This sophisticated cake is gently spiced and full of treacly flavours from the dried figs and muscovado sugar. My tip for a good-sized piece is to cut a slice, then halve it down the centre. Serve with strong chai lattes for a tea break to remember. A LITTLE EFFORT un-iced sponges only SERVES 16 PREP 45 mins plus cooling and chilling COOK 25 mins
FOR THE SPONGE 4 dried fgs, chopped into small pieces 75ml/21/2f oz hot strong coffee or espresso 100g/4oz blanched hazelnuts 200g/7oz slightly salted butter, very soft, plus a little for greasing 225g/8oz light muscovado sugar 200g/7oz plain four 2 tsp baking powder 2 tsp vanilla extract 2 tsp mixed spice 50g/2oz natural yogurt 4 large eggs FOR THE ICING 250g pack slightly salted butter, very soft 2 tsp vanilla extract or bean paste 400g/14oz icing sugar 250g tub full-fat cream cheese 6 tbsp fg jam or conserve TO DECORATE 10-12 fgs, halved or quartered 200g/7oz caramel (Carnation or Bon Maman work well)
Want to get ahead? This cake is even better made a day or two in advance – the texture of the sponge will improve. Wrap the cooled sponge in cling flm and store in an airtight container, then ice and decorate on the day you want to eat it.
1 First, make the sponge. Put the dried fgs in a bowl and pour over the coffee. Leave to soak for 30 mins. Heat oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4. Tip the hazelnuts onto a baking tray and toast in the oven for 5-8 mins until golden brown and aromatic. Tip 75g of the nuts into a food processor (set aside the rest for later) and leave to cool for 10 mins. Meanwhile grease the base and sides of a 20 x 30cm rectangular cake tin with butter and line with baking parchment. 2 Whizz the cooled nuts until fnely chopped. Add the soaked fgs and any remaining coffee, and whizz again to a paste. Add the remaining sponge ingredients to the processor with a good pinch of salt. Blend until well combined, scraping down the sides once or twice and blending again. Scrape into your cake tin, level the surface and bake for 25 mins, or until a skewer inserted into the centre of the cake comes out clean. Cool in the tin for 10 mins, then fip onto a wire rack, peel off the parchment and leave to cool. 3 While the cake cools, make the icing. Put the butter, vanilla and half the sugar in a large bowl. Roughly mash together with a spatula, then blend with an electric hand whisk until smooth. Add the cream cheese and the remaining icing sugar, mash, then blend again until smooth. Split the icing into 2 batches, one for layering and a crumb coat, and one for a fnal coat. You can chill the icing while the cake cools, but remove it from the fridge 15 mins before using to bring back to room temperature. 4 Now assemble the cake. Transfer the cooled cake to a chopping board. Score the sponge at 10cm intervals along the length of the cake, marking out 3 sections, 20 x 10cm each. Cut through, then stack the cakes on top of each other to check they are the same size. Trim any uneven edges, then unstack. 5 Put 1 sponge on a cake board or plate. Spread with a little icing and 3 tbsp fg jam, keeping the jam about 1cm from the edges. Top with another sponge, more icing and jam, then sandwich with the fnal sponge. Use a palette knife to cover the entire cake with the remaining frst batch of icing (the crumb coat)
– don’t worry if it’s a little messy. Make sure you fll any gaps between the layers with icing. Once covered, chill for at least 30 mins to frm up the icing. Chill the remaining icing too, but bring it out of the fridge 10-15 mins before the cake so it is ready for spreading. 6 Decorate the cake. Remove it from the fridge and cover with the remaining icing. Use a palette knife to create smooth edges, or leave it fairly rough, if you like. Top the cake with the fgs, pointy ends up. Put the caramel in a small piping bag, snip off the corner and drizzle over the top of the cake, encouraging it down the sides (or just drizzle it over with a spoon). Roughly chop the remaining toasted nuts and scatter over the top. Serve in slices with extra fgs on the side, if you like. Keep leftovers in the fridge for 3 days, but bring to room temperature before eating. PER SERVING energy 535 kcals • fat 32g • saturates 18g • carbs 54g • sugars 44g • fibre 2g • protein 5g • salt 0.6g
For a fawless finish n This sponge should have a fat
surface, so the layers sit nicely on top of each other. If your sponge has risen more in the centre, trim this off and use it in a trife (keep in the freezer for 2 months). n Make sure you keep the batch of icing used for the layering and crumb coat separate from the icing you use for the final coat. Any crumbs transferred to the second batch will show up in the icing. n Consistency is key with any icing – it should be spreadable but not runny. If it is too soft, chill the icing to frm it up, stirring every 10 mins or so. If it’s too frm, leave it at room temperature until pliable. n To hold the layers in place when you’re icing the assembled cake, push 2-3 wooden skewers, cut to the same length as the depth of the cake, into the sponge. The
skewers will be hidden when the cake is iced, but will stop the layers from sliding as you cover the cake in the icing. Just remember to remove them as you cut the cake. n Once you’ve covered the cake with its final coat of icing, use a small offset spatula to gently drag through the icing from bottom to top, all the way around the cake, for a nice texture and fnish. n For the perfect drizzle, squeeze a blob of caramel on the top of the cake, close to the edge, until it starts to drizzle down the side. The drizzles will eventually run to the bottom of the cake, so do this no more than an hour before serving. n If the icing looks a little messy around the base of the cake, cover it with chopped hazelnuts, gently pushed into the icing.
Join our Cake Club! If you’ve made Cassie’s cake, we’d love to see your photos
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Ca ke Clu 72
• Send them to
[email protected] • Share them on Twitter or Instagram with the hashtag #gfcakeclub
We’ll feature our favourite photos in the magazine. So get baking!
bbcgoodfood.com
September 2015
Food styling CASSIE BEST ( assisted by KATY GILHOOLY) | Styling LUIS PERAL
Spiced fg, coffee & hazelnut cake
Weekend
Rich flavours and subtle spicing
September 2015
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Halloum i wi th tom at oe
p Cour gette & tahini di
Za’atar croutons
Lebanese
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lasses e mo t a ran eg m po
Discover the favours and variety of Lebanese food at home with these authentic meze recipes from restaurateur Tony Kitous Photographs SAM STOWELL
September 2015
Weekend
Aube rgine salad l
Lamb kofta stew with cauliflower & chickpeas
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Algerian-born Tony Kitous moved to London when he was 18, and opened his first restaurant four years later. He wanted to create a friendly, accessible and value-for-money ‘canteen’. The result was Comptoir Libanais, meaning Lebanese counter (comptoirlibanais.com). Tony has been a key influencer in the Lebanese and Middle Eastern food scene in the UK and has written two successful cookbooks, Comptoir Libanais and Comptoir Libanais Express, both published by Preface. He is currently working on his third book.
‘My fascination with food began when I was a little kid. My mum was my accomplice – she helped me make things like sardine sandwiches and lemonade in our modest kitchen, then I’d venture out to the nearby football stadium, set up a stall on the pavement, and sell to the football fans. That was my frst experience of combining homemade food and drink with friendly hospitality – something that has become an integral part of my life. My childhood is flled with memories of watching in awe as my mum and aunts rustled up a huge spread of food, and the delight in devouring the dishes they had prepared along with my brothers, sister and our cousins. Lebanon is half Christian, half Muslim; half city people and half mountain people; half people looking to the east and half looking to the west, all living in harmony. Geographically, it’s at a crossroads. If you look at it on a map, it’s like the belly of the Eastern Mediterranean. So many different civilizations and infuences have left their mark on the tastes, traditions and politics, and all of these things translate into a very diverse cuisine. Food for the Lebanese is a very important expression of affection, love, emotion and hospitality and, when you go to people’s homes, they always want you to see the table full. This menu is an easy introduction to the food that I love. The perfect meze is essentially about generosity. Meze fll the table, so you’re free from the formality of courses and can put different elements on a single table – there are no rules, no conventions, and you get to eat a bit of everything.’
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Lamb kofta stew with caulifower & chickpeas This is great for autumnal evenings. The kofta meatballs are full of flavour, and the chickpeas give the dish a great texture. OF 5 EASY FOLATE FIBRE VIT C IRON 4 A DAY
SERVES 2 PREP 30 mins COOK 45 mins
FOR THE SAUCE 2 tsp olive oil 1 small onion, chopped 1 garlic clove, chopped 400g can chopped tomatoes 2 tsp tomato purée 500ml/18f oz hot lamb stock 1 /2 small caulifower, broken into small forets 1 /2 x 400g can chickpeas (save the rest for the kofta balls) 1 /2 bunch coriander, leaves only, to serve FOR THE KOFTA BALLS 250g/9oz minced lamb 1 small onion, fnely chopped small pack coriander, fnely chopped 1 /2 tsp ground cumin 1 /2 tsp smoked paprika 1 /2 x 400g can chickpeas (from above), drained and crushed
Halloumi with tomatoes & pomegranate molasses This is very easy and quick to make but tastes delicious. The mix of the halloumi and pomegranate creates a lovely salty-sweet combination, which is complemented by the mint. EASY
CALCIUM GLUTEN FREE
SERVES 2 PREP 5 mins COOK 8 mins
1-2 tbsp olive oil 1 /2 tsp za’atar (see p78) 225g pack halloumi, sliced 5 cherry tomatoes, halved 1 tbsp pomegranate molasses handful mint leaves, to serve 1-2 tsp pomegranate seeds, to serve
bbcgoodfood.com
1 First, make the sauce. Heat the oil in a large pan over a medium heat and fry the onion for around 10 mins until starting to soften and caramelise. Stir in the garlic and cook for about 1 min, then add the tomatoes and tomato purée and stir again. Season well and pour in 400ml of the stock. Cover and bring to the boil, then simmer over a very low heat while you make the kofta balls. 2 Add all the ingredients for the kofta balls to a large mixing bowl, and mix with your hands until all the ingredients are combined. Spoon out golf ball-sized pieces of the mixture, and roll into balls using your hands. 3 Give the sauce a good stir. Drop the kofta balls on top, then add the caulifower forets and the rest of the chickpeas, pushing them just under the liquid. Simmer for 25-30 mins or until the kofta balls are tender, adding the remaining 100ml of stock, if necessary. Scatter over the coriander and serve. PER SERVING energy 613 kcals • fat 25g • saturates 9g • carbs 33g • sugars 12g • fibre 12g • protein 57g • salt 1.2g
1 Pour the olive oil into a medium bowl, add the za’atar and stir to combine. Add the halloumi and toss in the mixture until well coated. 2 Heat a large griddle pan. Place the halloumi in the pan and cook for 1-2 mins, then turn over and cook for a further 1-2 mins until golden brown on both sides. After turning the halloumi, add the cherry tomatoes and move them around the pan quickly so they cook all over. 3 Transfer the halloumi and tomatoes to a plate, then drizzle over the pomegranate molasses and serve with the mint leaves and pomegranate seeds scattered over. PER SERVING energy 424 kcals • fat 35g • saturates 19g • carbs 3g • sugars 3g • fibre 1g • protein 24g • salt 3.5g
September 2015
Weekend
Watermelon & orange blossom lemonade
September 2015
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Weekend
I love cooking with aubergines because they can be used in so many dishes. If they are fresh, the skin will be taut and shiny, but the skin colour varies, so don’t be put off by any streaks of white, green or lavender. EASY
LOW FIBRE VIT C 2 OF 5 GOOD GLUTEN FAT A DAY 4 YOU FREE
Courgette & tahini dip Tahini (see guide, below) is used a lot in Lebanese cuisine, and is one of the main ingredients in houmous. Here, we’ve used it to make a fresh dip that’s perfect served alongside crudités or flatbread. EASY
1 OF 5 GOOD GLUTEN FOLATE VIT C A DAY 4 YOU FREE
SERVES 2 PREP 40 mins COOK 45-55 mins
SERVES 2 PREP 10 mins plus cooling COOK 20 mins
1 medium aubergine 1-2 spring onions, chopped 4 cherry tomatoes, cut into quarters 1 /2 small red pepper, deseeded and fnely diced 1 /2 small green pepper, deseeded and fnely diced 1 tbsp mint, chopped seeds from 1/2 pomegranate, to serve FOR THE DRESSING juice 1/2 lemon 1 /2 small red chilli (deseeded if you don’t like it too hot), fnely chopped (optional) 1 /2 tbsp pomegranate molasses 1 small garlic clove, crushed 11/2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil, plus extra to serve
2 large courgettes, washed 1 small garlic clove, crushed 1 tbsp tahini juice 1/2 lemon 1 tbsp Greek yogurt handful of mint, leaves picked and chopped 1 /2 tsp olive oil, to serve
1 Heat oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6 and line a baking tray with foil. Prick the aubergine with a sharp knife to prevent it from exploding, then put it on the prepared tray and roast for 45-55 mins until the skin is wrinkled and it is very soft. 2 While the aubergine is roasting, make the dressing. Mix together the lemon juice, chilli, if using, the pomegranate molasses, garlic and olive oil in a bowl. Season and set aside. 3 When the aubergine is cool enough to handle, peel and place it in a colander. Press down on it very gently over a bowl to allow the juices to run out, then transfer the aubergine to a serving plate and cut into large pieces. Dress quickly with half of the dressing, then add the spring onions, cherry tomatoes and peppers to the plate. Pour over the remaining dressing and mix with your hands or a spoon to coat. Serve scattered with mint, pomegranate seeds and more olive oil drizzled over. PER SERVING energy 178 kcals • fat 10g • saturates 2g • carbs 14g • sugars 10g • fibre 10g • protein 4g • salt 0.2g
1 Heat oven to 220C/200C fan/gas 7. Wrap the whole courgettes in foil, then put in the oven and roast for 20 mins or until soft when pricked with a fork. Remove from the oven and allow to cool completely. 2 Put the courgettes in a food processor, with the garlic and blend until it has a fuffy texture. Add the tahini and lemon juice and season, then blitz again. Transfer to a bowl, then stir through the yogurt and a little of the mint. Drizzle with olive oil and scatter over the remaining mint to serve. PER SERVING energy 121 kcals • fat 7g • saturates 2g • carbs 5g • sugars 4g • fibre 3g • protein 7g • salt 0.2g
Za’atar croutons Serve these with dip or on top of a salad for a bit of crunch and extra flavour. If you don’t want to use them all at once, put them in an airtight container – they’ll keep for several days. EASY
SERVES 2 PREP 5 mins COOK 30-40 mins
2 round pitta breads 2 tbsp olive oil 1 tbsp za’atar spice mix (see right)
1 Heat oven to 110C/90C fan/gas 1/4. Put the pittas on top of each other on a chopping board. With a bread knife, cut them into quarters, then cut each quarter in half again (so you end up with 16 equal-sized triangles). 2 Add the olive oil, a pinch of salt and the za’atar to a small bowl, and stir to combine. Using a pastry brush or your fnger, coat the pittas on both sides with the mixture, then put them on a baking tray and bake in the oven for 30-40 mins until crisp.
Watermelon & orange blossom lemonade
W HAT TO DRINK Highlight the smoky favours of the lamb with a rich red wine blend from Lebanon: Massaya Classic 2012, 14.5% (£10.25, thewinesociety.com). Add sunny fruit to the salty halloumi with Wine Atlas Feteasca Regala 2014, Romania, 12% (£4.97, Asda), a white with a soft tropical charm. For the aubergine salad, choose a full-favoured, dry rosé: Domaine des Tourelles 2013, 13% (£9.99, slurp.co.uk), from a historic family business in Lebanon’s Bekaa Valley, is a spicy blend of Mediterranean grapes.
As the fruit is naturally sweet, just add enough sugar for your own taste. 1 OF 5 GLUTEN EASY LOW FAT VIT C A DAY FREE
even as ice lollies MAKES 4 PREP 10 mins NO COOK 1
/2 watermelon (about 2.5kg/5lb 8oz unprepared weight, or 1.3kg/3lb, deseeded fesh only) 4-6 tsp golden caster sugar, or to taste juice 2-3 lemons 2 tsp orange blossom water crushed ice, to serve
1 Cut up the watermelon and remove the skin and most of the seeds. Put in a food processor with the sugar, lemon juice and orange blossom water and blitz together, adding more sugar to taste. 2 Strain through a sieve to remove the remaining seeds, then pour into a jug. Add a few spoonfuls of crushed ice, pour into glasses, and serve. PER SERVING energy 225 kcals • fat 1g • saturates 0g • carbs 49g • sugars 43g • fibre 2g • protein 4g • salt 0.1g
A guide to Lebanese ingredients All these can be bought from larger supermarkets or independent food shops. • Pomegranate molasses is made by boiling down pomegranate juice until it reaches a consistency similar to maple syrup. It’s tart and sweet at the same time, and this balance depends on the ripeness of the fruit used to make it. It can enhance other favours in both sweet and savoury dishes. • Za’atar can cause a little confusion. It’s the term for the Middle Eastern spice mix made from a heady combination of herbs, spices and seeds; however, it’s also the name of a herb itself. As with so much Middle Eastern cooking, there are many regional variations. • Tahini, a paste made by grinding sesame seeds, can also be referred to as ‘tahina’, depending on the region. • Olive oil I get my olive oil from my mum when she visits me from Algeria. There’s a farm at home that produces this great artisanal olive oil in really small quantities. If I run out, I buy it from independent shops in London and go for either Lebanese, Turkish or Moroccan oils. I love extra virgin olive oil because it has such a strong taste and smell. • Orange blossom water is my favourite, as the smell reminds me of being at my grandmother’s house when I was little. It’s made by distilling the blossoms of sour orange trees, and it lends a delicate favour to pastries, syrups and drinks. It can be pretty strong so use sparingly at frst, adding it little by little.
Find out more about Lebanese food on our online travel pages: bbcgoodfood.com/feature/travel
PER SERVING energy 304 kcals • fat 12g • saturates 2g • carbs 39g • sugars 2g • fibre 2g • protein 8g • salt 0.8g
Next month We take you to Sweden 78
bbcgoodfood.com
September 2015
Food styling JENNIFER JOYCE | Styling REBECCA NEWPORT | What to drink SARAH JANE EVANS MW
Aubergine salad
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Cook with *Terms and conditions: Closes midnight on 27 September. Entrants must be UK residents aged 18 and over. See full T&Cs at facebook.com/KenwoodWorld
confdence Do you have a passion for food, but lack confidence in the kitchen? Then let Kenwood help you to transform your culinary skills with its Disaster Chef challenge
E
ven if you’re the most enthusiastic foodie, it doesn’t always follow that you’re a great cook. If the thought of making a family meal – let alone hosting a dinner party – fills you (and your dining companions) with dread, Kenwood is here to help with Raymond Blanc leading the way! Now in its fourth year, the Kenwood Disaster Chef challenge is looking for 10 hopefuls, keen to master their culinary disasters. Whether it’s you, a friend or a family member who needs help from the experts, the competition aims to show that with the right equipment and good teachers, even the most unsuccessful cooks can turn kitchen tragedies into triumphs.
The Disaster Chef challenge
If successful, over six weeks the contenders will create six recipes designed to test and improve their culinary skills. They will be in the form of video tutorials created specially by chef Raymond Blanc, cookery writer Miranda Gore Browne and Kenwood Development Chef Martin Johns. Each recipe will be made at home, with the help of step-by-step instructions, a weekly hamper of fresh ingredients and the ultimate kitchen machine for passionate novices and seasoned chefs alike, the Kenwood Chef Sense. The contestants will all then go to a live final on 28 November, held at an exclusive London venue.
There they’ll meet the judges (including Raymond, Miranda and Martin) and put their skills to the test by creating a two-course meal. One winner, chosen based on their performance over the weeks and at the final, will be named Kenwood Chef 2015 and scoop a £4,000 prize package. So if you’re up for the challenge, or know someone who needs help in the kitchen, visit facebook.com/KenwoodWorld by midnight on 27 September for details on how to enter.
Celebrity chef and Kenwood Disaster Chef judge Raymond Blanc OBE has created three recipes especially for the challenge. Follow the competition and see his tutorial videos on facebook.com/KenwoodWorld
Could you be crowned Kenwood Chef 2015? If you’re one of the 10 chosen ‘Disaster Chefs’, you’ll be armed with a Kenwood apron and Kenwood Chef Sense (pictured right), worth £449.99. After six weeks of tutorial recipes and the live final, the most improved chef will walk away with the title of ‘Kenwood Chef 2015’ as well as a £4,000 prize package including: - A selection of stylish Kenwood kitchen appliances to the value of £500. - A two-night stay at Raymond Blanc’s Belmond Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons including accommodation, travel, tasting menu on the first evening and an à la carte dinner on the second, full English breakfasts, a tour of the Le Manoir kitchens and a signed copy of Raymond’s latest book Kew on a Plate. -Two places for a day’s tuition at the Raymond Blanc Cookery School. So what are you waiting for? Enter the competition now!*
To enter and to see Kenwood’s expert video tutorials, visit facebook.com/KenwoodWorld
The great British
biscuit tin Our cookery team share their twists on classic biscuit favourites – so good you’ll want to bake them all Photographs WILL HEAP
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September 2015
Weekend
Dunk me in… a mug of English Breakfast tea
September 2015
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The dunk test! We put classic biscuits through their paces.
Sticky toffee fg rolls At my Scouts or afterschool club, you could always choose a biscuit to go with your squash. When you managed to get your hands on a fig roll, it felt like you’d got lucky – more than just a biscuit, it had a filling too. Here, I’ve stayed true to the original in terms of shape and filling but I’ve boosted the sweetness with chewy toffees. Barney Desmazery, Senior food editor EASY
unflled dough only MAKES 16 PREP 30 mins plus 1 hr chilling COOK 30 mins
FOR THE PASTRY 140g/5oz plain four, plus extra for rolling 85g/3oz wholemeal four 50g/2oz golden caster sugar 1 /2 tsp mixed spice 140g/5oz cold unsalted butter, diced 1 medium egg yolk
FOR THE FILLING 200g/7oz soft dried fgs, roughly chopped zest and juice 1 orange 50g/2oz golden caster sugar 100g/4oz chewy toffees, chopped
1 Tip the fours, sugar, spice, a pinch of salt and the butter into a food processor and pulse until it has the texture of breadcrumbs. Add the egg yolk and pulse again until you have a pastry. Wrap in cling flm and leave to chill for 1 hr. 2 While the pastry is chilling, tip the fgs, orange zest and juice and the sugar into a saucepan and just cover with water. Bring to a simmer and cook gently for about 10 mins or until sticky like a chutney. Leave to cool slightly, then blitz in a food processor. Leave the mixture to cool completely, then fold through the toffees and set aside.
3 Heat oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Roll out the pastry on a lightly foured surface to a rectangle the same size as an A4 piece of paper. Cut lengthways down the middle to give you 2 long pastry strips. Spoon half the flling down 1 side of each pastry strip, leaving a slight border at the edge. Brush the edges with water and fold the pastry over to seal – like making a sausage roll. Make a fork print along the top. Place the rolls seal-side down on a baking tray and bake for 20 mins until brown. Remove from the oven and leave to cool, then cut the rolls into 8 pieces. Will keep in a biscuit tin for up to 1 week.
Dipping them up to their middle in a cup of tea, here’s how long they lasted before they disintegrated. 3
MINS
Pink wafer
54
SECS
Party Ring 49
SECS
PER FIG ROLL energy 202 kcals • fat 9g • saturates 5g • carbs 26g • sugars 16g • fibre 2g • protein 2g • salt 0.1g
Shortbread fnger
32
SECS
Milk Chocolate Hobnob
26
SECS
Jammie Dodger
Strawberry & cream roly-polys For a bright pink swirl, use a good splash of food colouring to enhance the strawberry powder’s natural rosy hue, as this will fade once baked. Cassie Best, Food editor A LITTLE EFFORT
uncooked MAKES 24 PREP 35 mins plus 1 hr 30 mins chilling COOK about 15-20 mins
2 x 7g packs freeze-dried strawberry pieces (available from Waitrose, Sainsbury’s or online) 140g/5oz cold slightly salted butter, cubed 250g/9oz plain four, plus extra for dusting 100g/4oz icing sugar 1 tsp vanilla extract 1 large egg yolk 2 tbsp double cream good splash or squeeze of red or pink food colouring
1 Tip the freeze-dried strawberries into a food processor and whizz to a powder. Transfer to a bowl, then wash the bowl of the food processor.
2 Put the butter and four in the food processor with a good pinch of salt and blend until the mixture resembles breadcrumbs. Add the icing sugar and whizz again. In a small bowl, whisk together the vanilla extract, egg yolk and cream, then add to the mixture in the food processor and whizz again until the dough clumps around the blade and most of the small crumbs have been worked into the dough. 3 Scoop about half the dough out of the processor (being careful not to cut yourself on the sharp blade) and briefy knead it on a work surface to bring it together. Shape into a puck, then wrap in cling flm and chill. Add the strawberry powder and a few drops of food colouring to the remaining dough in the blender, and whizz again until evenly coloured and combined – it should be bright pink (add more colouring if needed). Tip onto the work surface, fatten to roughly the same shape as the other dough, then wrap and chill for 30 mins. 4 Remove both pieces of dough from the fridge 10-15 mins before you want to roll them. Dust the work surface with a little four and unwrap the doughs. Place 1 piece of dough on top of the other, squashing the sides until they are roughly the same shape. Flour your rolling pin, then roll the dough
into a rectangle, roughly 25cm x 20cm – this is easiest if you frst ‘notch’ the dough, which means pressing the rolling pin frmly over the surface in one direction to make a long indentation in one direction, then turning the dough 90 degrees and repeating the process. 5 From one of the longer sides, roll the dough into a tight coil, as you would a Swiss roll. Wrap the dough in cling flm and chill for 1 hr. Or you can freeze it for up to 2 months. About 10 mins before you are ready to bake the biscuits, heat oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4 and line 2 baking sheets with baking parchment. 6 When the dough is frm, cut off and discard the end pieces, then slice into discs about the thickness of a £1 coin. Lay the biscuit dough out on your baking trays, spaced a little apart, and bake for 15-17 mins, swapping the trays over halfway through cooking, until the biscuits are frm and starting to turn pale golden around the edges. Leave to cool on the trays for 5 mins, then transfer to a wire rack to cool completely. Store in a biscuit tin for 3 days.
21
SECS
Rich Tea & Custard Cream
20
SECS
McVitie’s Dark Chocolate Digestive 19
SECS
Fox’s Crunch Creams 18
SECS
Nice 17
SECS
Malted Milk
PER ROLY-POLY 114 kcals • fat 6g • saturates 4g • carbs 12g • sugars 5g • fibre 1g • protein 1g • salt 0.1g
13
SECS
Ginger Nut
12
SECS
Bourbon Cream & Garibaldi
82
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September 2015
Weekend
Dunk me in… fragrant Earl Grey tea
September 2015
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Lemon sherbet jammy dodgers
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Everyone’s favourite jam biscuit gets a zesty makeover. Cassie
EASY unbaked dough only MAKES 15 PREP 45 mins plus chilling COOK 15 mins
FOR THE BISCUIT 175g/6oz cold slightly salted butter, cubed 250g/9oz plain flour, plus extra for dusting 100g/4oz icing sugar zest 1 lemon, plus 1-2 tsp juice 1 large egg yolk 23g pack sherbet (I used Dip Dab) FOR THE FILLING 75g/21/2oz slightly salted butter, at room temperature 250g/9oz icing sugar 100g/4oz lemon curd
l
Dunk me in… a cup of milky hot chocolate
1 In a food processor, whizz the butter, four and a pinch of salt until the mixture resembles fne breadcrumbs. Add the sugar and lemon zest and whizz again. Add the lemon juice and egg yolk and blend until clumps of dough form around the blades. Keep blending, using the pulse button, until larger balls of dough have formed. Tip out the mixture onto a work surface and knead briefy to bring it together in a smooth ball – don’t overwork it or it will be tough. Cut the dough into 2 equal pieces and pat into fat discs, then wrap in cling flm and chill for at least 30 mins. Line 2 baking sheets with baking parchment. 2 Remove the dough from the fridge 15 mins before you’re ready to roll it. Lightly four your work surface and rolling pin. Unwrap 1 piece of dough and roll it out to the thickness of a 50p piece. Use a 6cm cutter to stamp out discs (you should get about 15) and transfer to a baking sheet using a palette knife. 3 Unwrap and roll out the remaining dough to the same thickness. Stamp out 15 discs and transfer to the second baking sheet. Use a small round cutter (about 1cm) or the end of a piping nozzle to stamp holes from the middle of 15 of the biscuits. Loosely cover the trays with cling flm and chill for 15 mins. Heat oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4. 4 Bake the biscuits for 15 mins, swapping the trays over halfway through. Remove from the oven, leave to cool for 5 mins, then transfer to a wire rack and leave to cool completely. 5 Meanwhile, make the flling. Place the butter, sugar and half the lemon curd in a bowl. Mash together, then blend with an electric hand whisk. Transfer to a piping bag and snip off the end, making a 1cm opening. Place the remaining lemon curd in another piping bag and snip off the end to make a slightly smaller hole. Dust a little sherbet over the biscuits with a hole in the centre. 6 Pipe blobs of lemon flling in a ring shape onto each whole biscuit, leaving space in the centre to fll with lemon curd. Fill the middles, then sandwich a sherbet-dusted biscuit on top of each one. Store in a biscuit tin for 3 days.
Double chocolate shortbread fngers I’ve added milk and white chocolate to these, but you could use dark chocolate instead of milk for a slightly more grown-up version. The key to the best shortbread is to fold in the dry ingredients very gently and quickly. Chelsie Collins, Cookery assistant EASY unbaked dough only MAKES 14-16 PREP 15 mins plus cooling COOK about 10 mins
200g/7oz slightly salted butter, softened 50g/2oz icing sugar 2 tsp vanilla extract 200g/7oz plain flour 2 tsp cornflour 1 /2 tsp baking powder 50g/2oz milk chocolate, broken into chunks 50g/2oz white chocolate, broken into chunks
1 Heat oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4 and line 2 baking sheets with baking parchment. Put the butter and sugar in a large bowl and beat with an electric hand whisk for about 5 mins until pale and fuffy. Add the vanilla extract and beat again until fully incorporated. 2 Sift in the four, cornfour and baking powder, and fold into the mixture using a spatula until combined (the dough should have a tacky consistency). Spoon the dough into a piping bag ftted with a large star-shaped nozzle. If all the mixture doesn’t ft, do it in 2 batches. 3 Pipe 10cm long, 1.5cm wide fngers onto the baking sheets, making sure there are 3cm spaces between each fnger. Bake for 8-10 mins, swapping the trays over halfway through the cooking time, until pale golden and cooked through. Leave to cool on the baking sheets for a few mins, then transfer to wire racks. 4 Melt the chocolate separately over a pan of gently simmering water (making sure that the bottom of the bowl doesn’t touch the water) or in the microwave in short bursts, stirring every 15 secs or so. Dip 1 end of the shortbread fngers into the bowl of milk chocolate and the other end in the white chocolate. Leave to set on baking parchment before serving. PER FINGER (16) energy 187 kcals • fat 12g • saturates 8g • carbs 16g • sugars 7g • fibre 1g • protein 2g • salt 0.2g
Many a joke has been made about this biscuit and my surname. No, we didn’t invent them, and yes, I do sometimes wish we had, as then we might be millionaires! Here they are even Nice-r; my brother is vegan, so I have made them suitable for him too. Miriam Nice, Assistant food editor A LITTLE EFFORT
MAKES around 30 PREP 30 mins COOK 40 mins (for all the batches)
FOR THE BISCUIT 1 tbsp linseeds 400g/14oz plain flour, plus extra for dusting 200g/7oz coconut oil 50g/2oz desiccated coconut 280g/10oz golden caster sugar FOR THE TOPPING 4 tbsp coconut cream 200-225g/7-8oz icing sugar 50g/2oz desiccated coconut
1 Heat oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4. Put the linseeds in a small bowl and add 3 tbsp water. Leave to soak for 5-10 mins. Meanwhile, rub the four and coconut oil together in a large mixing bowl until the coconut oil is well distributed and the mixture looks like fresh breadcrumbs. Stir in the desiccated coconut and set aside. 2 Tip the linseeds, together with their soaking water, into the bowl of a mini food processor and blitz until frothy. Add the sugar and blitz again until well mixed. Pour the linseed and sugar mixture into the four and coconut oil and knead together to form a ball of dough. If the dough feels like it’s too dry and may crack when rolling out, add a little water, 1 tsp at a time. 3 Transfer the dough to a foured surface and roll it out to about the thickness of a £1 coin. Cut into 7cm x 4cm rectangles and place on a large baking sheet lined with baking parchment – make sure you leave 2-3cm between each biscuit. Bake in batches for 10-12 mins or until just starting to turn golden at the edges. Transfer to a wire rack using a palette knife or fsh slice and leave to cool completely before decorating. 4 To decorate, mix together the coconut cream and enough icing sugar to make a thick paste. Transfer to a piping bag and pipe a thin line all around the outside edge of a biscuit, then dip the icing into the desiccated coconut. Repeat with all of the biscuits. Pipe the word ‘NICE’ onto the middle of each biscuit, then leave to set. PER BISCUIT energy 174 kcals • fat 9g • saturates 8g • carbs 20g • sugars 10g • fibre 1g • protein 2g • salt none
In the mood for baking?
The Great British Bake Off continues on BBC One, while there are more baking recipes on page 97.
PER JAMMY DODGER energy 151 kcals • fat 7g • saturates 4g • carbs 20g • sugars 13g • fibre none • protein 1g • salt 0.1g
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Coconut Nice
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September 2015
Food styling CASSIE BEST assisted by KATY GILHOOLY | Styling LUIS PERAL
Dunk me in… ginger tea
Weekend
Dunk me in… a glass of cold almond milk
September 2015
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R WORUGBY 18 Se LD CU P p—31 Oc t
Got friends over to watch the game? Make the meal as memorable as the match with Barney DesmazeryÕs crowd-pleasing curry Photographs SAM STOWELL
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September 2015
Weekend THE BIG LUNCH Curried pulled lamb Indian oven chips, spiced salt & curry sauce Cucumber & mint relish Tomato kachumber
Tomato kachumber
Spiced salt
Curried pulled lamb
Cucumber & mint relish
Indian oven chips
September 2015
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Like a winning team studying their opposition, coming up with recipe ideas and menu combinations is easiest when the boundaries are set, and you know what you’re up against. When friends come over to watch a sporting event, they’re going to be focused on the screen, so what’s needed are dishes that can be grazed on, revisited at half-time, and piled into a sandwich or wrap for those that are standing. Above all, keep it casual – you don’t want your own sporting challenge of trying to watch the game while cooking at the same time. Barney Desmazery
Indian oven chips For super-crisp oven chips or wedges, boil them the day before, then roast from chilled. This means there’s no steam or moisture from the just-boiled potatoes to counteract the crisping process. EASY
GOOD GLUTEN 4 YOU FREE
SERVES 6-8 PREP 10 mins plus overnight chilling COOK 55 mins
1kg/2lb 4oz foury potatoes such as Maris Piper, peeled and cut into chunky chips 1 /2 tsp turmeric 3 tbsp sunfower oil thumb-sized piece of ginger, peeled and chopped, or fnely grated into a paste 3 garlic cloves, chopped, or fnely grated into a paste 1 tsp fennel seeds generous pinch of cayenne pepper
1 The day before you plan to eat them, tip the potatoes into a pan of cold water and add the turmeric and pinch of salt. Bring to the boil, and simmer gently for 2-3 mins until just cooked. Drain, leave to cool, then chill overnight if you can. 2 Heat oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Drizzle 1 tbsp of the oil in a shallow roasting tin (preferably non-stick), and place in the oven. Pour the rest of the oil into a large bowl and add the ginger, garlic, fennel seeds and cayenne pepper. Tip the cold chips into the bowl and gently toss with your fngers until evenly coated. Remove the tray from the oven and scatter over the chips. Use a spatula to coat the chips in the hot oil, then lay them out in a single layer and roast for 30 mins. Use the spatula to turn, then return to the oven for 15 mins until crisp and golden. PER SERVING (8) energy 140 kcals • fat 4g • saturates 1g • carbs 21g • sugars 1g • fibre 2g • protein 3g • salt none
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Curried pulled lamb If you treat this recipe as a staggered process over a couple of days, this will result in the best-flavoured curry sauce for dipping in your chips. When it comes to serving, place the lamb on a board with a couple of forks for shredding, and have a pile of flatbreads on the side to wrap up tender mouthfuls of meat. A LITTLE EFFORT GLUTEN FREE
SERVES 6-8 PREP 45 mins plus a few hrs marinating and overnight chilling COOK 4 hrs
2kg/4lb 8oz shoulder of lamb 3 tbsp sunfower oil 2 onions, sliced 1 cinnamon stick 4 cardamom pods 2 bay leaves 1 tsp light muscovado sugar 1 tbsp malt vinegar 2 large tomatoes, roughly chopped 100g/4oz natural yogurt FOR THE SPICE PASTE 6 garlic cloves thumb-sized piece of ginger, peeled and roughly chopped 1 green chilli, roughly chopped (deseeded if you don’t like it too hot) 1 tsp turmeric 1 tsp mild chilli powder 2 tsp ground cumin 1 tbsp ground coriander TO SERVE coriander leaves, mint leaves, chopped green chilli (deseeded if you don’t like it too hot), chapatis
1 Up to 2 days before the meal, tip all the spice paste ingredients into a mini chopper or small food processor with a splash of water and a pinch of salt. Blitz until smooth. Lightly score the lamb a few times on all sides and rub about a third of the paste
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all over. If you have time, cover the lamb and leave in the fridge for a few hours or overnight, and chill the remaining paste. 2 The day before you want to eat the lamb, heat oven to 160C/140C fan/gas 4. Heat 2 tbsp of the oil in a casserole or fameproof roasting tin that is big enough to ft the lamb snugly. Add the onions, cinnamon, cardamom and bay leaves to the hot oil and cook for 10 mins, stirring occasionally, until the onions are soft and starting to brown. Sprinkle over the sugar and splash in the vinegar, then sizzle for 1 min. Tip in the remaining curry paste and cook everything for 1 min until aromatic. 3 Add the tomatoes and cook for 1 min more, then stir in 200ml water and the yogurt. Season with salt and bring everything to a simmer. Nestle the lamb into the sauce and spoon over some of it. Cover the pan with a lid or tightly with foil and place in the oven for 3 hrs until the lamb is really tender. Leave the lamb to cool in the sauce, then lift it out and tip the sauce into a container – cover both and chill in the fridge overnight. 4 On the day you want to eat the lamb, heat oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Put the lamb on a shallow roasting tin, brush with the remaining oil and roast in the oven for 40 mins until nicely browned. While the lamb is roasting, scoop off and throw away the solidifed fat from the sauce, then tip the sauce into a saucepan and simmer for 10 mins until thickened, and season to taste. Blitz the sauce with a hand blender until reasonably smooth, then reheat in the pan. Serve the lamb on a board, with the sauce for spooning over, and the coriander, mint, chillies and chapatis on the side.
WANT TO GET AHEAD? ■ The lamb can
be braised up to 2 days ahead, then chilled until ready to roast. ■ The chips can be boiled up to 2 days ahead and chilled until you are ready to roast them. ■ The mint relish can be made the day before. Keep it chilled until ready to serve.
PER SERVING (8) energy 477 kcals • fat 35g • saturates 15g • carbs 6g • sugars 4g • fibre 1g • protein 34g • salt 0.3g
September 2015
Weekend
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Weekend Spiced salt To make a spiced salt that goes with everything on the table, simple mix 50g sea salt fakes with 1 tbsp garam masala, 1 tsp dried mint, 1 tsp black onion seeds and a small pinch of ground cinnamon. Keep the salt coarse and faky, or grind in a spice grinder for a powdered seasoning.
Tomato kachumber Kachumber is an Indian chopped salad or salsa. Here I’ve kept it pretty basic, but diced cucumber, coarsely grated carrot, sliced radish and chopped red or yellow pepper could all happily join the party. EASY
LOW GOOD GLUTEN FAT 4 YOU FREE
SERVES 6-8 PREP 15 mins NO COOK
4 tomatoes, chopped 1 small red onion, chopped juice 1/2 lemon pinch of cayenne pepper 1 /2 tsp cumin seeds handful coriander leaves, chopped mint leaves, green chilli, sliced (optional)
Mix all the ingredients together in a bowl until well coated, and cover until needed. Scatter over mint and chilli, if you like, before serving. PER SERVING (8) energy 12 kcals • fat none • saturates none • carbs 2g • sugars 2g • fibre 1g • protein none • salt none
Cucumber & mint relish This is cooling and spicy in equal measure. If you prefer it without heat, simply leave out the chilli. EASY
LOW GOOD GLUTEN FAT 4 YOU FREE
SERVES 6-8 PREP 15 mins NO COOK 1
W HAT TO DRINK Waitrose German Pils, 5% (£1.88/500ml), will quench the thirst after shouting for your team! Wine drinkers will want something with plenty of oomph – Winemakers’ Selection South African Shiraz Cabernet 2014, 14.5% (£6, Sainsbury’s) is bursting with blackcurrant and vanilla. Or try Pisano Cisplatino Tannat 2014, Uruguay, 13% (£9, Marks & Spencer), a dark and spicy red.
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1 Peel the cucumber and coarsely grate the sides, discarding the seeds. Season generously with salt. Tip into a colander or sieve and leave for 10 mins to drain, then squeeze out as much liquid as you can and tip into a bowl. 2 Tip the remaining ingredients into a mini chopper or food processor and blitz. Pour the sauce over the cucumber and stir, then chill until needed. Serve scattered with mint. PER SERVING (8) energy 18 kcals • fat 1g • saturates none • carbs 2g • sugars 1g • fibre none • protein 1g • salt none
Listen to live commentary of the Rugby World Cup on BBC radio and on mobile: bbc.co.uk/sport. Or watch it on ITV (itv.com/rugbyworldcup)
bbcgoodfood.com
September 2015
Food styling JENNIFER JOYCE | Styling REBECCA NEWPORT | What to drink SARAH JANE EVANS MW
/2 cucumber large pack mint, leaves picked, plus extra, to serve 1 garlic clove small piece of ginger, peeled 100g/4oz natural yogurt
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Baking clever Even the world’s best chefs appreciate a shortcut. A #hothack can make a big difference to your results and time spent in the kitchen, as author, TV cook and Hotpoint ambassador Lisa Faulkner testifies inside
Hotpoint Dual Flow Oven
The Hotpoint Luce Oven is a clever appliance with lots of features to help you ace your performance in the kitchen. The Dual Flow System maintains an even temperature across the entire oven, meaning your bakes will come out perfect, every time.
Get hack happy Lisa Faulkner tries some top tips to make light work of a Victoria sandwich, marshmallows and raspberry jam. Put a #hothack to the test and find ingenious ways to make your baking go without a hitch
B
aking is full of opportunities to make good use of a hack. Hacking into the methods you use daily can uncover effective tricks to help you prepare veg faster, do two things at once, or get the most out of your tools and ingredients. These shortcuts can save time, improve results or just make things easier. It might be the genius of the ‘sticky food, wet hands’ rule, or a shortcut to whipped cream (try shaking it in a jam jar); it could even be a secret ingredient that takes your cakes up a level. A great hack can even be a smart way to use your hardware, as Hotpoint ambassador Lisa Faulkner knows. The talented cook has found Hotpoint products to be the ideal combination of innovation
and performance, letting her take advantage of clever functions and dual uses without compromising results. It means that cooking at home need never be a chore – Lisa loves being in her kitchen. The Hotpoint Kitchen Machine, for example, makes life easy. It’s a superb mixer, with a five-litre bowl and 400-watt motor that can tackle the thickest of batters. And a range of attachments lets it transform into a slicer, shredder, cookie maker, mincer and pasta maker, so Lisa can use it to prepare an entire three-course meal. Try the recipes here and see the difference a Hotpoint #hothack can make for yourself. But don’t keep it to yourself! Share your results and your best tips online with #hothack
Tropical fruit marshmallows
SERVES 6-8 a PREP 20 MINS a COOK 10 MINS plus 1-2 hrs cooling
120ml mango and passion fruit juice 2 x 12g sachets powdered gelatine 450g caster sugar 150ml golden syrup sunfower oil, for greasing 4-5 tbsp cornfour, to dust
Hotpoint Kichen Machine
Lisa’s #hothack: combine the jam, marshmallows and softened vanilla ice cream using the Kitchen Machine’s whisk attachment for a Rocky Road-style dessert. Place in the freezer until set and serve.
Win!
Visit bbcgoodfood. com/competitions to win some fabulous Hotpoint appliances
1 Pour the juice into the Kitchen Machine and sprinkle over the gelatine. Set aside until the liquid is absorbed. 2 Put the sugar and golden syrup in a saucepan with just enough water to cover. Stir, then cook over a very low heat until the sugar dissolves. Bring to the boil and bubble until it reaches 130-140C on a digital thermometer. 3 Take the pan of the heat and let it cool for 1 min. Whisk the gelatine mixture on medium speed with the balloon whisk attachment. Add the syrup, pouring down the side of the bowl without letting it touch the whisk. The mixture will puf up and grow. 4 Once all the syrup is added, carry on whisking until the mixture is very thick and the bowl feels cool to the touch. 5 Line a baking tray with greased clingflm. Spoon in the mixture using a greased spatula, then cover with greased clingflm. Leave for 1-2 hrs until the top feels frm when pressed. 6 Once it’s set, remove from the tray and the clingflm and cut into cubes with a greased knife. Roll in cornfour to dust. The marshmallows will keep in an airtight container for a couple of weeks.
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“Te one ting you need for a perfect bake is a really good oven” Lisa Faulkner.
Hotpoint Dual Flow Oven Lisa’s #hothack: Got a party? Make three cakes at once. An even temperature ensures a consistent bake for all cakes.
Raspberry & lemon Victoria sandwich
Quick raspberry jam
SERVES 10 a PREP 45 MINS a COOK 20-25 MINS
MAKES 3 X 400G JARS a PREP 2 MINS
250g unsalted butter, softened, plus extra for greasing 250g caster sugar 4 large free-range eggs (weighing 250g) 250g self-raising four zest of 2 unwaxed lemons, grated 5 generous tbsp Quick raspberry jam (see recipe, left) 300ml double cream 2 tbsp icing sugar 100g fresh raspberries 1 tbsp icing sugar, to sprinkle
a COOK 10 MINS
800g fresh raspberries 400g jam sugar with added pectin 1 Tip the raspberries and sugar into a large, deep pan. Place over a low heat and melt the sugar, squishing the raspberries with a wooden spoon to break them up. 2 Once the sugar has melted, bring to a rolling boil and keep it there for exactly 5 mins. Remove from the heat, stir for 5 mins to cool a little and pour into sterilised jars.
Hotpoint Direct Flame Gas Hob Lisa’s #hothack: Use the centre burner for ultra-rapid heat, the top burners for fast and the bottom two for standard heat.
1 Heat the oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4. Grease and line two 20cm cake tins. 2 Beat the butter with the sugar in the Kitchen Machine until pale and fufy. Add the eggs, one at a time, beating before adding the next one. Add the four and zest of one lemon, and fold in until it forms a smooth batter. 3 Divide between the cake tins and bake in the centre of the oven for 20-25 mins until golden and risen. A skewer should come out clean. Turn out onto a wire rack and leave to cool. 4 Meanwhile, make the jam. 5 In a bowl, whisk the cream with the icing sugar until just holding its shape, then add the remaining lemon zest. 6 Spread one cake with the jam, then spoon over the lemon cream and scatter with raspberries. Top with the other sponge and sprinkle with icing sugar.
Discover more hacks and recipes at bbcgoodfood.com/hotpointhothacks. To find out about Hotpoint and ambassador Lisa Faulkner, visit hotpoint.co.uk
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September 2015
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Family feast Get everyone involved in this simple Sicilian pasta recipe – enriched by Galbani® Mozzarella
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fter a long day at work, you may come home feeling tired, but dinner still needs to be made – especially when you have other mouths to feed. Emily Leary, the food, lifestyle and parenting guru behind the blog A Mummy Too, knows this experience all too well and her handy hints have helped bridge the gap between professional and domestic life. She says: ‘When you work, it can be hard to get quality time with your children. I started thinking about how you can spend time together and prepare the evening meal.’ ‘Busy parents need meals to be healthy, fun, quick and easy, but you still want that special experience. Get the children to help you make this simple Italian recipe. The Galbani Mozzarella provides a flavour that stands up for itself.’
Sicilian aubergine & Galbani® mozzarella pasta SERVES 2 a PREP 10 MINS a COOK 20 MINS a EASY
1 aubergine, cut into small chunks 6 tbsp olive oil 2 garlic cloves, crushed 200g cherry tomatoes, halved 200g fusilli pasta 125g ball Galbani® Mozzarella, torn 2 tbsp toasted pine nuts
1 Fry the aubergine in a pan with 4 tbsp oil until golden
Italy’s number one
Italian in origin with a rich heritage, Galbani cheese dates all the way back to 1882, when father and son duo Davide and Egidio Galbani frst made it in the lush Alpine valley village of Ballabio.
Galbani® and Dolcelatte® are registered trademarks
brown and softened, then remove to a plate. Add the remaining oil and the garlic to the pan, then fry gently until golden. Add the tomatoes with a glass of water, turn the heat down, and bubble gently until saucy. 2 Meanwhile, bring a large pan of salted water to the boil, add the pasta and cook according to pack instructions. 3 Drain the pasta well, then tip into the frying pan with the aubergines, Galbani® Mozzarella, pine nuts and seasoning. Toss until the cheese melts and everything is warmed through.
TV extra
GREAT BRITISH BAKE OFF New recipes from two of our Bake Off favourites Edited by KATHRYN CUSTANCE Recipes tested by Home economist PETRA JACKSON
Luis Troyano’s Very berry loaf cake
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The Great British Bake Off Try these treats from Luis Troyano, one of last year’s finalists, and Frances Quinn, the 2013 winner. This year’s search for a new champion continues on Wednesdays at 8pm on BBC One
LUIS TROYANO 2014 fnalist Very berry loaf cake My simple sponge is lemon and honey-flavoured, and the outside of the cake turns dark, giving it a wonderful caramelised flavour. The cake is drizzled with lemon and honey icing, then decorated with blackberries, raspberries and a few mint leaves. A final drizzle of honey over the fruit finishes it off perfectly. EASY
SERVES 6-8 PREP 50 mins COOK 40 mins
225g soft unsalted butter 185g golden caster sugar 4 medium eggs 225g self-raising four fnely grated zest of 2 unwaxed lemons and juice of 1 40g clear honey, plus 1 tbsp for icing 150g blackberries 150g raspberries 100g icing sugar a few sprigs of fresh mint
Raspberry, pistachio & white chocolate tart I first made this tart for a family Sunday dinner and it was an immediate hit. Hidden in the mascarpone and white chocolate filling are fresh raspberries for a hint of tartness. The tart is topped with pistachios and fresh pomegranate seeds, but feel free to add fresh raspberries and some grated white chocolate too, if you like. A LITTLE EFFORT
SERVES 12 PREP 1 hr plus chilling and cooling COOK 30 mins
FOR THE SWEET SHORTCRUST PASTRY 215g plain four 30g icing sugar 120g cold unsalted butter, cut into small cubes 2 medium egg yolks FOR THE FILLING 100g good-quality white chocolate, coarsely chopped 200ml double cream 300g mascarpone 11/2 tsp vanilla paste or 2 tsp vanilla extract 3 medium eggs 250g fresh raspberries 1 /2 fresh pomegranate 100g pistachios, slivered or fnely chopped
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1 Heat oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4. Grease and line a 900g loaf tin (mine measures 95 x 195mm and the tin is 70mm high). Line with baking parchment. 2 Cream together the butter and sugar until pale and fuffy – this takes about 5 mins in a kitchen mixer ftted with a paddle, or a little longer with a hand mixer. Crack the eggs into a bowl and give them a quick mix. Slowly add them to the butter and sugar mixture, along with 1 tbsp four, beating all the time. 3 Next add the lemon zest, the honey and remaining four. Give it a really good mix until well incorporated. Put about half the cake mixture into the tin and level it out with a spatula. Place 2 rows of blackberries (about 10 berries) and 1 row of raspberries on top of the mixture. Gently put the rest of the cake mixture into the tin and place another row of berries on top. Gently push them down so they are just visible. 4 Bake in the centre of the oven for about 40 mins or until a skewer inserted into the centre comes out clean. The cake should be frm and not wobbling. If it is, cook for a further 10 mins, but put a sheet of foil over the top to stop it from getting too dark. Don’t worry too much though, this cake is meant to have a dark caramelised crust.
5 Leave the cake to cool in the tin for about 10 mins, then tip it out, upside down, onto a wire rack to cool completely. 6 To make the icing, juice one of the zested lemons and strain the juice. Put the icing sugar and 1 tbsp of honey into a bowl. Add the lemon juice, a little at a time, until you have a thick, glossy icing. If you add too much and it goes runny, simply add more icing sugar. 7 Put the cake on your presentation plate and drizzle over the icing. I use a disposable icing bag but you could use a spoon. Take your time and decorate the top of the cake with the rest of the berries and a few mint leaves. Dip a teaspoon into a jar of honey and lightly drizzle over the fruit to fnish.
1 To make the pastry, put the four and sugar in a food processor and give it a quick pulse. Add the butter and pulse again until the mixture resembles breadcrumbs. Tip the mixture into a large mixing bowl and add the egg and 2 tbsp fridge-cold water. Bring together with your hands, then gently knead the mixture a couple of times to make a smooth pastry. Wrap in cling flm and put in the fridge until required. 2 Heat oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4. Put in a baking sheet to heat. Roll out the pastry and use it to line a 26cm loose-bottomed tart tin. Line with baking parchment and baking beans, and bake blind for 8-10 mins or until pale golden. Remove the baking parchment and beans, and bake for a further 5-10 mins or until the base is crisp. Set aside on the baking sheet. 3 To make the flling, put the chocolate into a heatproof bowl with the double cream and put over a saucepan of simmering water, making sure the base of the bowl doesn’t touch the water. Stir until the chocolate has melted, then leave to cool for a few mins. Next whisk the mascarpone, eggs and vanilla in a bowl, then pour in the cooled chocolate and whisk again until smooth and combined. 4 Pour two-thirds of the mixture into the pastry case, then add the raspberries, distributing them evenly. Add the rest of the mixture, making sure the raspberries are submerged.
5 Bake the tart for 25-30 mins or until the flling feels frm in the centre and you start to see a little cracking around the edge. Put the tart tin on a wire rack and leave until cold before removing the tart from the tin. 6 Using a wooden spoon, hit the back of the halved pomegranate over a bowl to knock out the seeds. Sprinkle the pistachios and pomegranate seeds over the tart to decorate before slicing.
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Luis’ tip When making a cake in a loaf tin, I use bulldog clips to hold the lining parchment in place around the edge of the tin while I make the cake, and take them off just before putting it into the oven.
Petra says: ‘Sweet shortcrust pastry, as the name suggests, contains sugar, so keep an eye on the tart case when you frst blind-bake it. If it is overcooked, it will taste a little bitter. With my fan oven I always err on the side of caution.’
September 2015
TV extra
September 2015
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Enjoy a slice of summer
Tested in the
HOME COOKING SERIES
with our Bakes & Cakes special
Impress friends and family with our delicious summery bakes. Over 100 irresistible recipes including breads, cakes and pastries, there’s something for everyone!
Kitchen Paul Hollywood's Berry sponge
on sale now
Chorizo pizza with peppers
Iced buns
Got an iPad? Visit the Apple App store to download digital issues in the Home Cooking Series, including Eat Well, Vegetarian Summer and Bakes & Cakes
TV extra
The Great British Bake Off
Jammy thumbprint amaretti I inevitably end up with lots of jars with remnants of jam and marmalade. This is a great recipe for using them up and making something delicious at the same time. I also add leftover nuts and seeds for extra crunch. Based on the Italian amaretti biscuit, these are just fab. EASY
MAKES about 36 PREP 40 mins COOK 10-15 mins per batch
300g ground almonds 250g icing sugar, plus extra for dusting 85g plain four 1 /2 tsp fne salt fnely grated zest 1 unwaxed lemon 3 tsp clear honey 1 tsp almond extract 3 medium egg whites choice of chopped nuts or seeds to roll the biscuits in choice of jams or marmalades for thumbprints
1 Heat oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4. Line 2 large baking sheets with baking parchment. Mix the almonds, sugar, four and salt in a large mixing bowl. Add the lemon zest, honey, almond extract and egg whites, and mix to a smooth dough. Wrap in cling flm and leave in the fridge for at least 1 hr – the dough will frm up and becomes easier to handle. Divide the dough into 3 equal pieces. 2 Dust your hands with icing sugar and roll each piece into a sausage shape about 3cm thick. Roll it in chopped nuts or seeds, perhaps trying different nuts or seeds for each sausage. Cut each sausage into 12 equal discs. Dip the exposed side of each disc in icing sugar. Keep your hands dusted with icing sugar and put the discs onto the prepared baking sheets, 2-3cm apart. Press your thumb into the centre of each one to make an indent, then fll with 1/4 tsp jam or marmalade. 3 When you have a full tray, bake for about 10-15 mins or until golden and risen. Repeat until you have used up all the dough. Leave the amaretti to cool on the baking sheets and they will become crisp as they cool.
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As well as writing his frst book, Luis has been teaching at cookery schools and demonstrating at shows throughout the country. You can catch him, as well as former Bake Off winners John Whaite and Jo Wheatley, at the BBC Good Food Bakes & Cakes Show at London’s Olympia from 13-15 November. For more info and tickets, visit bbcgoodfoodbakesand cakes show.com or call 0844 581 1367.
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Recipes adapted from Bake It Great by Luis Troyano (£20, Pavilion Books). Photographs © Clare Winfeld. You can buy this book for just £17. Call 01326 569444, p&p is free. Or buy online at sparkledirect.com/goodfood.
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The Great British Bake Off Petra says: ‘I love chocolate tiffn and wow, these are just incredible – and dangerously addictive! You’ll fnd that the biscuits on top soften as they chill, so you can easily slice into smaller portions if you prefer.’
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TV extra
FRANCES QUINN 2013 winner Malted milk tiffn I’ve crammed a lot of malty deliciousness into these tiffin slabs, in the form of classic malted milk biscuits and malt extract. And in a nostalgic nod to many comforting milk and cookie snacks, I’ve scattered in a good helping of chewy milk bottle sweets too. If you can, choose the kind dusted with icing sugar and made with real milk – their flavour is much milkier. EASY
MAKES 15 tiffn slabs PREP 20 mins plus chilling COOK 5 mins
100g butter, roughly chopped, plus extra for greasing 2 tbsp barley malt extract 200g dark chocolate, cut into small pieces 200g milk chocolate, cut into small pieces 200g malted milk biscuits 100g chocolate chip cookies 100g crunchy chocolate-covered honeycomb balls, such as Maltesers 100g milk bottle sweets
1 Grease and line a 23cm square cake tin. First cut out 4 baking parchment strips that are long enough to go up the sides and across the base of the tin. These are your handles to help lift the tiffn from the tin once it is set. So set these in place before lining; two across one way and two across the other. 2 Put the butter and barley malt extract in a heavy-based saucepan. Set over a gentle heat and warm, stirring occasionally, until the butter has melted. Add all the chopped chocolate and stir until smooth. Remove the pan from the heat. 3 Reserve 15 malted milk biscuits and put the rest in a large bowl. Add the cookies and chocolate-coated honeycomb balls. Break up by pounding with the end of a rolling pin. Aim to create a mix of crumbs and larger chunks to give your tiffn a varied texture. 4 Using scissors, snip up the milk bottle sweets into about 5 pieces each and add to the bowl containing the crumby mixture. Add the dry ingredients to the melted chocolate mixture and stir together. Transfer the mixture to the lined tin. Level the surface with a palette knife or the back of a spoon. Arrange the reserved malted milk biscuits over the top in three neat rows of fve. Leave
a slight gap between each to make the tiffn easier to cut later. Firmly press them on top to make sure they stick. 5 Refrigerate until set, preferably overnight. To serve, remove from the tin, using the parchment strips to help, and cut into portions following the gaps between the malted milk biscuits.
Clothes designer Frances’s astonishing creativity was key to her winning The Great British Bake Off in 2013. As well as writing her new book, she’s been designing and baking masterpieces for big events and brands, including Barbara Hepworth-inspired shortbread sculptures for Tate Britain. To see some of her amazing edible creations, visit her website, francesquinn.co.uk.
Recipes adapted from Quinntessential Baking by Frances Quinn (£25, Bloomsbury). Photographs © Georgia Glynn Smith. You can buy this book for just £21. Call 01326 569444, p&p is free. Or buy online at sparkledirect.com/ goodfood.
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TV extra
The Great British Bake Off Coffee shot cup cakes Baked and served in takeaway coffee cups, these cakes will bring out your inner barista. They are soaked in coffee syrup with, if you like, a shot of coffee liqueur, before being topped with sweetened mascarpone cream, or whipped cream. You can find paper cups online, or make friends with your local coffee shop and buy paper cups from them. I would definitely advise using the brown ripple cups, as the outer layer will conceal any butteriness that might soak through the inner cardboard from the cake.
Petra says: ‘I easily found the ripple cups that Frances recommends online. The prices varied a little, but as a guide 100 x 8oz cups cost around a tenner including delivery.’
A LITTLE EFFORT
MAKES 12 small cakes PREP 50 mins COOK 15-20 mins
FOR THE CAKES 3 tbsp instant coffee granules 3 tbsp whole milk 150g butter, softened 150g muscovado sugar 3 eggs, at room temperature 150g self-raising four 150g walnuts, toasted and chopped FOR THE COFFEE SYRUP 1 /2 tbsp instant coffee granules 50g golden caster sugar 1 /2 tbsp coffee liqueur, such as Tia Maria (optional) FOR THE TOPPING 250g mascarpone a few drops of vanilla extract 50g icing sugar dash of milk or cream, if needed TO DECORATE cocoa powder
1 Heat oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4. Line a 12-hole muffn tin with the paper cups. Mix the coffee with 3 tbsp freshly boiled water, then stir in the milk and set aside to cool. Using a hand-held mixer or a freestanding mixer, beat the butter and sugar together for 5-10 mins or until very light and creamy. The mixture will turn from a rich toffee brown to a pale café-au-lait shade. Break the eggs into a jug and beat with a fork. 2 Gradually add the eggs to the creamed butter, beating well after each addition. Should the mixture look like it’s curdling, add a spoonful of four. Sift in the four and fnally fold in with the coffee and walnuts. Spoon the mixture into the paper cups and bake for 15-20 mins or until the cakes have risen and a skewer pushed into the centre comes out clean. 3 While the cakes are baking, make the syrup. Put the coffee in a small pan, add 50ml freshly boiled water and stir to dissolve. Stir in the sugar. Set the pan over a medium heat and bring to the boil. Reduce the heat
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and simmer gently for a few mins or until the sugar is completely dissolved and you are left with a runny syrup. Remove from the heat and stir in the liqueur, if using. 4 Once the cakes are baked, remove from the oven and leave to cool in the tin for 5 mins. During this time, prick with a cocktail stick and gently brush over the coffee syrup, allowing it to soak into the sponge – use about 1/2 tbsp of syrup per cup. Remove the cups from the muffn tin and leave to cool completely on a wire rack. 5 Put the mascarpone and vanilla in a bowl and sift in the icing sugar. Beat together until creamy and well combined. Add a dash of
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milk or cream to slacken the mix if necessary. Spoon some on top of each cake and spread level with a palette knife. Sift the cocoa on top, either all over or through a stencil to create some barista art.
NEXT MONTH We’ll be featuring recipes from the Hairy Bikers’ new series. Si King and Dave Myers take a culinary tour of the countries bordering the Baltic Sea – Poland, Lithuania, Latvia, Estonia, Russia, Finland and Sweden. The Hairy Bikers’ Northern Exposure starts on BBC Two in September.
Jo Brand returns this year with The Great British Bake Off: An Extra Slice, to chew over each week’s contest with celebrity Bake Off fans every Friday evening on BBC Two
September 2015
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Take your plaice Join in a good cause and host a Fish Supper for your family and friends. You’ll be supporting the brave RNLI crew members who regularly miss meals to save lives at sea
O
ne of the most heart-warming things about cooking a delicious meal is that it gathers your nearest and dearest around you at the table. But for an RNLI volunteer crew member, this precious time can be disrupted by a call for help from someone in peril at sea. How wonderful then, that you can make a meal for your loved ones and raise money for a worthy cause at the same time. If you host a Fish Supper between 9-11 October – or whenever suits you – you can support the RNLI’s lifesavers by helping to raise funds to train, equip and
ultimately protect them when they’re in perilous situations at sea, so they can keep coming home safely to their families. Hosting your own Fish Supper is easy and fun. Simply go to RNLI.org/ FishSupper to receive your special fundraising kit, invite your lovely guests, and then cook up a storm! If you’re a little short of recipe inspiration, you can try the tasty fish one here or visit RNLI.org/FishSupper.
Cod and chorizo corn chowder
SERVES 6 a PREP 15 MINS a COOK 30 MINS
700g potatoes, peeled and cut into cubes 600g skinless and boneless cod, diced 300ml milk 300ml fsh stock 1 tbsp olive oil 1 large onion, chopped 120g chorizo, diced 1 tbsp plain four ½ tsp smoked paprika 250g sweetcorn, fresh or frozen juice 1 lemon small bunch parsley, leaves only, roughly chopped 4 spring onions, sliced crusty bread, to serve
1 Put the potatoes in a large pan and cover
with cold water. Bring to the boil, then simmer until soft. 2 Meanwhile, place the fish in a large pan and cover with the milk and stock. Slowly bring to a gentle simmer. Cook for 1 min or so until the fish is cooked through. Remove from the pan and reserve the liquid. 3 Heat the oil in a frying pan and add the onion. Sweat over a low heat for 5 mins until soft. Add the chorizo and fry for about 5 mins until browned and beginning to crisp. Stir through the flour and paprika and cook for 1 min. Gradually pour in the reserved liquid and simmer until thickened. 4 Add the sweetcorn and potatoes and cook for 5 mins, then carefully tip in the fish. Add the lemon juice and heat through. Finally, season with freshly ground black pepper and stir through the parsley and spring onions. Serve with crusty bread.
“I love that my daddy is on the lifeboat. I get so excited when I hear the pager. I run to the window and watch him zoom off.” Emily Davies, aged nine. Her dad is Hugh Davies, RNLI Coxswain, Barry Dock Lifeboat Station
SIMPLY GO TO RNLI.ORG/FISHSUPPER AND SIGN UP TO RECEIVE YOUR SPECIAL FUNDRAISING KIT
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fter a spell running nightclubs in London and Brighton, Oliver Peyton opened his frst restaurant in 1994. He set up his company Peyton & Byrne in 2006 and it now has restaurants in galleries and museums, including the National Gallery and The Wallace Collection in London, as well as a chain of bakeries. Oliver has been a judge on BBC Two’s Great British Menu since it started nine years ago. He lives in west London with his wife Charlotte and three children.
What state was the house in when you moved in? We bought it as a wreck seven years ago, knocked down lots of walls and started from scratch. As you can see, I am a colour person – I live in colour, it makes you feel good! In England we’re often surrounded by quite a lot of muted things, although there is a lot more colour around these days.
Was it unusual at the time? A lot of the stuff we put in was quite ahead of its time. The fooring company said: ‘No one’s ever asked for a red resin foor before.’ People come in and are a little shocked by some of our artwork, but I don’t like the idea of being conventional. I don’t want things to be too regulated, and I prefer a mix of old and new. Places don’t have to be just modern or just traditional – that’s not me – I like everything together.
How do you use the kitchen? It’s important for family life that we eat together – at the weekend I try to plan my diary around it. We always have breakfast together. I tend to make juice in the morning and we
My kitchen
Oliver Peyton The restaurateur and judge on BBC Two’s Great British Menu invites Holly Brooke-Smith into his striking London kitchen Photographs DAVID COTSWORTH
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September 2015
Good reads
Oliver loves colour – not clutter. His dramatic kitchen features a resin floor and Durat worktop made of recycled and recyclable plastics (durat.com)
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Good reads CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT Oliver’s tiled terrace is made for al fresco dining; a blender for every occasion; snow globes from around the world; vintage and modern bowls; detail of the terrace mosaic
have a game where we have to guess the secret ingredient – whether it’s carrot, strawberries or goji berries – to get everyone involved.
Do you have lots of kitchen kit? I do love a gadget. We’ll try every blender or juicer available for instance – and rotate in and out with different models, from cold pressing or nutriblending, commercial or domestic machines. I’m interested in tech – some of it’s rubbish and some of it’s great – but you need to try it to know.
What do you cook on? We have two separate ovens. I know it might sound weird, but I do think you need two – we’re often cooking several things at once. The hobs are gas and we have a barbecue grill on the top, which is great for fsh.
FINE ART, GREAT DINING I love running restaurants in galleries as you get a chance to walk around when it’s really quiet. As a restaurateur, I’ve never gone to a new space and thought, what am I going to do? I’ve always had a vision. You just get a sense straight away that you know what it’s going to be. Gut instinct is always important.
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The kitchen is very tidy… Well, it’s such chaos in the house that we’re insistent that all the surfaces have to be kept clear. If my daughter is baking, nothing else happens until she’s fnished, and then we start cooking supper. It’s a good way to keep a bit of structure and calm! And maybe part of that is because I work in the business – you have to keep everything clear.
Do you entertain a lot? We have people over – I enjoy entertaining. Normally, if it’s for more than eight, I’ll get someone in to cook, but otherwise I’ll do it all. Beyond that it starts to get serious – you need time off! If guests come round, invariably there’ll be a whole fsh and grilled
When I’m designing restaurants I think, ‘How I can make it feel more comfortable or homely?’ You can tell a good restaurant before you’ve even sat down or ordered – there’s something in the air. I remember when I started on Great British Menu I felt self-conscious. I thought, why the hell am I here? But after the frst
‘Places don’t have to be just modern or just traditional – that’s not me – I like everything together’
show, I realised that with 20 years in the business, I did know things. The programme has given me a lot more confdence to teach my own chefs. Before then, I didn’t see my role like that, but now I realise it is about mentoring and passing on some of my experience. The food world is changing all the time. When we opened The Wallace 10 years
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veg, and it’s quite relaxed. We don’t stand around spherifying jus from the turbot!
What’s usually on the menu? I’ve always loved vegetables, so a lot our meals will be based around a salad with tons of things in it, even in the winter. And I’m crazy about good dressings – I love them. They’re more important than the salad – it turns on the volume and pulls it all together, like conducting an orchestra. We’re big fsh eaters too. We buy fsh whole and salt-bake it. I tend to try a lot of herbs and spices all the time, too.
What’s in your cupboards? I have go-to things like Italian Fontodi olive oil, which we get shipped in by the caseload. I’ve never understood
ago, we were the only restaurant in the area. When we opened at the British Library, everyone was so pleased they could fnally get good coffee, but now there’s a food of great cafes and restaurants in the area. The brilliant thing about London is that there are so many more affordable places to eat really well, and that’s exciting.
September 2015
why people spend loads of money on wine and not on olive oil – a good bottle lasts a lot longer and has real impact on the quality of your food. I have lots of wine, too. Suppliers send me samples and I slowly drift though them. Australia and Germany are the wines of the moment, and I think Portugal’s wine is looking very interesting now.
Mirrored cupboards at one end of the kitchen have floor-toceiling shelving
WIN
How would you describe the food you eat at home?
A FOOD IE BREA &
If you ask most people in the restaurant business, they’ll tell you they eat as simply as possible at home. Lots of the time I’m eating very complicated, rich food. So home time is more about regenerating. But I’m interested in fnding the best primary ingredients. Natoora has fantastic veg produce, and some of our local Afghan shops have really unusual spices or fruits. I’m most interested in things I don’t know about.
What was the inspiration for your tiled terrace? It was a mixture of the architect Gio Ponti’s hotel in Sorrento (Parco Dei Principi), where they have beautifully tiled walls, and all those great Missoni textile patterns. One friend says they always look down when they take off from Heathrow to see if they can spot the terrace!
September 2015
Valentin K e Masterc Warner lass at
For a ch a pick up nce to w in , sim ap p in selec romotiona l p ly ac k ted stor es to y ou r u n iq ue co f nd d e.
• Catch Oliver and fellow panellists Prue Leith and Matthew Fort on Great British Menu, which continues on weekday evenings on BBC Two • Turn to page 146 to read more about Prue Find your promotional pack in Aldi, Asda, Costco, Morrisons, Tesco & The Co-op. Competition runs from 07.09.2015 to 04.10.2015. Visit tenderstem.co.uk for full details of the prizes and T&C’s.
SECC GLASGOW 6 - 8 NOVEMBER
A taste of Scotland World-class chefs, world-class regional food
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oin us for a delicious day out this November, bursting with the best of Scottish food. Discover regional delicacies from independent and artisan producers, get culinary inspiration from local experts, and see your favourite celebrity chefs cooking live.
SAVE 20%*
Book early for the best price! Save 20%* on tickets when you book before 29 Sept. Quote GFR20.
Tom Kicin
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In the Supertheatre sponsored by Kenwood, see Michelin star chefs Tom Kitchin and, joining us for the first time in Scotland, Michel Roux Jr, as well as Paul Hollywood, Mary Berry, and James Martin. Catch your favourite chefs signing books and on the Interview Stage sponsored by Lakeland.
Discover a selection of regional producers, and try tasty samples of their top quality food and drink before you buy. The Show is the perfect place to start your Christmas shopping and pick up unique gifts for your food loving friends and family; look out for those Show only special offers too!
Spend the day watching the best chefs in the business creating mouth-watering dishes, chatting to local producers and browsing the stalls, then head home with all your tasty treats and delicious new ingredients, as well as a Showguide full of recipes to try for yourself at home.
Tickets from £15.40 with 20% off *, saving £3.85 bbcgoodfoodshow.com | 0844 581 1345
SHOW With thanks to our sponsors and supporters:
*20% off valid on advance Adult and Over 65s tickets only (excluding VIP). Offer ends midnight 29.09.15. £15.40 is based on a discounted advance Adult Super ticket, Fri & Sunday, saving £3.85 (Sat discounted tickets cost £15.80, saving £3.95). Standard Supertheatre seat included with all advance Super tickets subject to availability. Upgrade to a Gold seat for £3 extra. 20% discount also available on Value tickets, which exclude Supertheatre, entry from 11am only. Prices include all transactional and admin fees. Not valid with any other offer. Calls to 0844 581 1345 cost 7p per minute plus your phone company’s access charge. Not all celebrities appear on all days, check website for details. The Good Food word mark and logo are trademarks of BBC Worldwide Limited. Copyright BBC Worldwide Limited. The BBC Good Food Shows are organised and presented by River Street Events.
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R LE BE SA M N TE O P SE 30
In next month’s issue
Flavours of autumn
n Pumpkins galore! n Toffee apple cake n Halloween treats
Pum pkin h pancak scotc es with salted pecan butter
Inspiration for all your meals n Tom Kerridge
cooks pheasant n Student suppers n Jack Monroe’s microwave magic September 2015
SAVE! 10% off homeware at Robert Dyas FREE! Ottolenghi cookbook – 20 fabulous recipes EXCLUSIVE! Good Food lunch at Le Manoir
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Quality cookware Save up to £75 on this stylish Cooks Professional cast-iron casserole set
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Exclusive price for readers Made from high-quality cast iron, this cookware is ideal for stews, casseroles, rice dishes, pot roasts and soups. Cast-iron cookware distributes heat evenly without hotspots, so that you get great results, plus the lids feature ridges on the underside that help to baste and moisten meat during the cooking process. Suitable for use on all hobs, as well as in the oven. Available as individual dishes or as a two-piece set in a choice of four different colours. The shallow casserole dish measures 30 x 6cm and weighs 5.8kg. The round casserole dish measures 21 x 10.5cm and weighs 4.2kg. *Please add £3.95 to your order total for p&p.
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Was
Price
Shallow casserole dish
D7433
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£99.99
£44.99
Round casserole dish
D7434
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Call 0844 493 5654** quoting 52041 or visit clifford-james.co.uk/52041 or send your contact details, address and the codes and quantities of the item(s) you wish to order, along with a cheque payable to BVG Airfo, to: BBC Good Food Offer 52041, PO Box 87, Brecon LD3 3BE. Terms and conditions ‘Was’ pricing refers to the original selling prices offered on the promoters website, cjoffers.co.uk, and in their retail store between 18/5/15 and 18/8/15. Delivery within seven working days to UK mainland only, some exclusions may apply. **Calls cost 7p per minute plus your phone company’s access charge. If not completely satisfed with your order, please return goods in mint condition and sealed original packaging for a refund within 30 days of receiving your order (postage costs will not be refunded unless faulty). Your contract for supply of goods is with BVG Airfo. A signature is required on delivery. Data protection BBC Worldwide Limited and Immediate Media Company Limited (publishers of BBC Good Food) would love to keep you informed by post, telephone or email of their special offers and promotions. Please state at time of ordering if you do not wish to receive these from BBC Worldwide or Immediate Media Company.
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To order, call 0844 493 5654** quoting 52041 or visit clifford-james.co.uk/52041 112
bbcgoodfood.com
September 2015
EAT WELL ALL WEEK Jo Pratt creates deliciously easy meals to help keep you on track As a busy mum with two children, I’m always juggling work and family. So I have learned how to rustle up meals that everyone will love – but that are still well balanced. These recipes are nutritious, delicious, easy to shop for and cook, and they’ll help you
Photographs TAMIN JONES
feel less guilty next time you see a runner and feel bad you’ve not done any exercise for a week or so (or given in to that bag of crisps). I’m 100% positive that you’ll fnd something here to satisfy all those times when you’re in the mood for being healthy.
& ot arr st c Roa a fet
d la sa
w ith
ta hi ni dre ssi ng
ALSO IN THIS SECTION n Lighter aubergine parmigiana n How to read food labels
n Three healthy slaws n Gluten-free products on test
September 2015
bbcgoodfood.com
113
Roast carrot & feta salad with tahini dressing
Caulifower ‘couscous’
Carrots are rich in vitamins C and E, and calcium, beta-carotene (which converts to vitamin A), magnesium and potassium.
EASY
EASY
uncooked only SERVES 4 PREP 10 mins COOK 5 mins
OF 5 GLUTEN CALCIUM FIBRE IRON 2 A DAY FREE
Quarter 1 large caulifower and remove the core. In batches, put the caulifower in a food processor and pulse until it resembles couscous. Heat a large frying pan over a high heat and add 2 tbsp olive oil. Add the caulifower, toss and move around in the pan for 3-4 mins to very lightly cook it. Add the juice 1/2 lemon and a small bunch coriander, chopped, season, and toss to combine.
SERVES 4 PREP 20 mins plus cooling COOK 30 mins
1kg/2lb 4oz carrots 3 tbsp olive oil 1 tsp ground cumin 1 /2 tsp cayenne pepper 1 tbsp clear honey 400g can chickpeas, drained 75g/21/2oz spinach, watercress or rocket leaves seeds from 1 large pomegranate or 150g tub ready-prepared pomegranate seeds 140g/5oz feta 2 tbsp toasted pumpkin seeds or roughly chopped pistachio nuts FOR THE TAHINI DRESSING 2 tbsp tahini juice 1 lemon 2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil 1 small garlic clove, crushed
1 Heat oven to 190C/170C fan/gas 5. Peel the carrots and cut into thick batons. Put in a roasting tin and toss with the olive oil, cumin and cayenne pepper, and season with salt. Roast for 20 mins, turning a few times. 2 Drizzle the honey over the carrots and toss to coat. Stir in the chickpeas, and return to the oven for a further 10 mins until the carrots are tender and going golden. Leave to cool to room temperature. 3 Mix together the dressing ingredients in a small bowl and add a little water to give a pouring consistency, if necessary. Season, then toss the cooled, roasted carrots and chickpeas with the leaves, pomegranate seeds and feta cheese. Spoon onto a large serving dish and drizzle over the dressing. Serve scattered with the pumpkin seeds. PER SERVING energy 538 kcals • fat 32g • saturates 8g • carbs 40g • sugars 28g • fibre 13g • protein 16g • salt 1.9g
Smart pans for clever, healthier cooking
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LOW FOLATE VIT C 1 OF 5 GOOD GLUTEN FAT A DAY 4 YOU FREE
PER SERVING energy 106 kcals • fat 6g • saturates 1g • carbs 6g • sugars 4g • fibre 4g • protein 4g • salt 0.2g
Prawn & brown rice jambalaya The word jambalaya, which originated in France, means ‘mixed up’ or ‘jumbled’ – rice, spices, vegetables, meats and seafood all cooked together in one pot. I’m using prawns, a great antioxidant, and fibre-rich kidney beans, plus nutty brown rice for even more goodness. Finish with spring onions and fresh lemon juice to liven things up.
Chicken tagine with cauliflower ‘couscous’ Chicken & date tagine Dates are one of the best sources of potassium (up to three times more than bananas). They are also full of dietary fibre, iron, vitamin A, magnesium and many B vitamins.
LOW 2 OF 5 GOOD EASY LOW FAT CAL FIBRE VIT C IRON A DAY 4 YOU
SERVES 4 PREP 10 mins COOK 40 mins
OF 5 EASY FIBRE 2 A DAY
2 tbsp olive oil 1 onion, fnely chopped 3 celery sticks, fnely chopped 1 yellow or red pepper, deseeded and diced 4 garlic cloves, crushed 1 bay leaf 1 tsp smoked paprika pinch of cayenne pepper 200g/7oz brown rice 400g can chopped tomatoes 400g can red kidney beans, drained 700ml/11/4pts chicken or vegetable stock 400g/14oz raw peeled king prawns small handful chopped parsley 4 spring onions, fnely chopped lemon wedges, to serve
SERVES 4 PREP 20 mins COOK 1 hr 10 mins
800g/1lb 12oz skinless chicken thigh fllets, halved 2 onions, fnely chopped 4 garlic cloves, crushed 1 tbsp grated root ginger pinch of saffron strands 1 /2 tsp ground turmeric 1 cinnamon stick 1 /2 tsp cayenne pepper 2 tbsp olive oil 500ml/18f oz chicken stock juice 1 lemon 300g/11oz pitted dates, preferably Medjool, roughly chopped 25g/1oz faked almonds
1 Set a large casserole dish over a medium heat and add the chicken, onions, garlic, ginger, spices and olive oil. Mix to coat the chicken. Cook for 15 mins, stirring frequently, until the chicken browns and the onions are golden. 2 Add the chicken stock and lemon juice, and bring to a simmer. Reduce the heat to low, cover with a lid and cook for 35 mins. Stir in the dates, then remove the lid and leave to cook for a further 15 mins. 3 Meanwhile, heat a frying pan over a medium heat. Toast the almonds for a few mins, stirring occasionally, until light golden. Remove from the pan and leave to cool. 4 Season the tagine, transfer to a serving dish or plates and scatter with the toasted almonds. Serve with the caulifower ‘couscous’ (right). PER SERVING energy 624 kcals • fat 22g • saturates 5g • carbs 55g • sugars 53g • fibre 6g • protein 47g • salt 0.6g
bbcgoodfood.com
Recipes adapted from In the Mood for Healthy Food by Jo Pratt (£20, Nourish Books). You can buy the book for just £18. Call 01326 569444, p&p is free. Or buy online at sparkle direct.com/goodfood.
1 Heat the oil in a large, heavy frying pan or a wide casserole dish over a medium-high heat. Fry the onion, celery, pepper and garlic for 5-8 mins until softened. Stir in the bay leaf, paprika, cayenne pepper and rice, and cook for 1 min more or so. 2 Add the tomatoes, kidney beans and stock to the pan. Bring to a simmer, then reduce the heat to low and cover with a lid. Cook for about 25 mins until the rice is almost tender. 3 Season the prawns and stir into the pan. Cook for about 5 mins until the prawns turn pink. Stir in the parsley and season with salt and pepper. Scatter with spring onions and serve with lemon wedges to squeeze over. PER SERVING energy 468 kcals • fat 9g • saturates 2g • carbs 59g • sugars 11g • fibre 11g • protein 33g • salt 1.7g
Make it with chicken Try using 2 chicken breasts, cut into strips, instead of prawns. Add to the pan once the onion, celery and pepper have softened, and fry for a few mins before continuing with the recipe.
September 2015
Eat well
ked with good things pot pac e n O
September 2015
bbcgoodfood.com
115
Healthier version o fa Kale pesto pasta with crispy prosciutto
st a by nd
Pesto pasta is a really quick and easy midweek meal. But to make the pesto a little more nutritious, I’m using kale, a genuine superfood, in place of some of the basil. Its flavour and colour are amazing, and it can be used in the same way as traditional pesto.
mi dw ee k
1 OF 5 EASY A DAY
pesto only SERVES 4 PREP 20 mins COOK 15 mins
400g/14oz pasta 200g/7oz cherry tomatoes on the vine 6 slices prosciutto olive oil, for drizzling extra virgin olive oil, to serve FOR THE KALE PESTO 50g/2oz pine nuts 100g/4oz prepared kale leaves (stripped from the stalks) 1 large garlic clove, roughly chopped 1 large bunch basil, leaves only 50g/2oz grated Parmesan 100ml/31/2f oz olive oil
1 Heat a small frying pan over a medium heat and add the pine nuts. Toss around in the pan for a few mins until lightly golden. Remove from the pan and leave to cool. 2 Bring a large saucepan of water to the boil over a high heat and add a good pinch of salt. Fill a bowl with ice-cold water and set aside. Put the kale into the boiling water and cook for 1 min. Remove with a slotted spoon and transfer to the iced water to instantly cool down. Return the water to the boil, add the pasta and cook for 10-12 mins or until al dente. 3 Meanwhile, drain the kale and squeeze out the water. Put in a food processor with the rest of the pesto ingredients. Blitz to a pesto consistency, adding a splash of the pasta
116
cooking water to loosen if it seems too thick. Season to taste with salt and pepper. 4 Heat the grill to high. Put the tomatoes on a baking sheet, drizzle with a little olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Lay the prosciutto next to the tomatoes and place under the hot grill for 3-4 mins, turning the prosciutto halfway through. Remove from the grill when the prosciutto is crisp and the tomatoes are starting to burst. Drain the pasta and toss in as much pesto as you like.
bbcgoodfood.com
Spoon onto plates and top with tomatoes and crispy prosciutto. Add a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil and a twist of pepper, then serve. PER SERVING energy 492 kcals • fat 28g • saturates 5g • carbs 42g • sugars 3g • fibre 1g • protein 17g • salt 1.0g
Leftover pesto If you don’t use all the pesto, it will keep in the fridge for up to one week (add a thin layer of olive oil on top to preserve). Alternatively, it also freezes really well for up to 1 month.
September 2015
Eat well Thai salmon skewers with edamame & quinoa Thai curry pastes also make a handy ready-prepared marinade for fish and meat. Here, I’m using green curry paste to coat chunks of salmon before grilling. If you can, buy a thick salmon fillet or fillets for this, as they will hold well on the skewers. Other chunky fish, such as tuna, cod, pollock or monkfish, would work well too. 1 OF 5 EASY LOW CAL FOLATE VIT C IRON OMEGA-3 A DAY
SERVES 4-6 PREP 15 mins plus 30 mins marinating COOK 35 mins
700g/1lb 9oz salmon fllet, cut into 2-3cm/3/4-11/4in pieces 3 tbsp Thai green curry paste 4 tsp fsh sauce juice and grated zest 1 large juicy lime 1 small handful of faked coconut 200g/7oz quinoa 200g/7oz slim stalks of broccoli 250g/9oz frozen edamame (soya) beans, defrosted large handful coriander, roughly chopped lime wedges, to serve olive oil, for brushing
1 Put the salmon chunks in a bowl with the curry paste, fsh sauce and half the lime juice, and mix everything together. Leave to marinate for about 30 mins.
2 Heat a frying pan over a medium heat and toast the coconut fakes for a few mins, stirring occasionally, until light golden. Remove from the pan and leave to cool. 3 Put the quinoa in a saucepan with 500ml water. Set over a high heat and bring to the boil. Once you have a rolling boil, cook for 1 min, then cover with a lid. Reduce the heat to low and leave to cook for 12 mins. Remove from the heat, leaving the lid on for a further 5 mins, then run a fork through to separate the grains. 4 Bring a separate pan of water to the boil and put the broccoli in a steamer over the top. Cover and steam for 4 mins. Add the edamame and cook with the broccoli for a further 2 mins until heated through. Remove from the heat and tip into a large bowl. Add the quinoa along with the coriander, lime zest and remaining lime juice. Mix well. 5 Heat the grill to hot. Thread the salmon pieces onto metal skewers (or wooden ones that have been soaked in water, so they don’t burn). Sit on a non-stick baking sheet and brush lightly with oil. Put under the grill for 10 mins, turning occasionally, until becoming golden. Divide the quinoa between plates, scatter over the toasted coconut fakes, and serve with the salmon skewers and wedges of lime to squeeze over. PER SERVING (6) energy 422 kcals • fat 21g • saturates 4g • carbs 22g • sugars 5g • fibre 4g • protein 35g • salt 1.2g
Enjoy a life ful of friendship The best things about the Oddfellows are friendship and meeting other people
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Boost your juice! Make healthier drinks and smoothies with a Cooks Professional NutriBlend blender
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This blender is designed to extract nutrients and vitamins from fruits, vegetables, nuts and seeds at the fick of a button. It can chop and grind entire fruits and vegetables to ensure that all the goodness remains within the juice. Includes a recipe book and tumblers. 10-PIECE SET Order code D8459, £44.99 (was £99.99) n NutriBlend power base n Large tumbler (700ml) n Two small tumblers (350ml) n Blender blade n Grinder blade n Two tumbler handles n Two stay-fresh lids
15-PIECE SET Order code D8471, £54.99 (was £129.99) n NutriBlend power base n Three large tumblers (700ml) n Two small tumblers (350ml) n Blender blade n Grinder blade n Two travel lids n Two tumbler handles n Three stay-fresh lids
Also available: Easy Smoothies and Juices recipe book Enjoy delicious juices and smoothies all year round with this brilliant book. It includes over 100 recipes that you can make in a matter of minutes, from fruit and vegetable juices to smoothies and shakes. Whether you want to make a delicious breakfast drink, a dessert in a glass or a cocktail in the evening, this book has exactly what you’re looking for. Add to your order for just £7.99 (order code D8657)
How to order your blender To order, call 0844 493 5654** quoting 52092 or visit clifford-james.co.uk/52092 or send your contact details, address plus the codes and quantities of the item(s) you wish to order, along with a cheque payable to BVG Airfo, to: Good Food Offer 52092, PO Box 87, Brecon LD3 3BE. Terms and conditions ‘Was’ pricing refers to the original selling prices offered on the promoters website, cjoffers.co.uk, and in their retail store between 18/5/15 and 18/8/15. Delivery within seven working days to UK mainland only, some exclusions may apply. **Calls cost 7p per minute plus your phone company’s access charge. If not completely satisfed with your order, please return goods in mint condition and sealed original packaging for a refund within 30 days of receiving your order (postage costs will not be refunded unless faulty). Your contract for supply of goods is with BVG Airfo. A signature is required on delivery. Data protection BBC Worldwide Limited and Immediate Media Company Limited (publishers of BBC Good Food) would love to keep you informed by post, telephone or email of their special offers and promotions. Please state at time of ordering if you do not wish to receive these from BBC Worldwide or Immediate Media Company.
*Please add £3.95 to your order total for p&p
To order, call 0844 493 5654** quoting 52092 or visit clifford-james.co.uk/52092 September 2015
bbcgoodfood.com
119
MAKING HEALTHIER CHOICES
How to read
the label Choosing products labelled ‘low fat’ or ‘natural’ might not be the healthiest options, explains Sue Quinn Illustration LINDSEY SPINKS
S
ometimes, it seems as if our attempts to eat a balanced diet are thwarted by confusing health messages – in the media, from experts and on food labels. Even the savviest shopper can be caught out by labels that make us think we’re picking a healthier option, when we’re not. European Commission packaging regulations have changed in recent years to ban wild health claims, but it’s still not easy to understand the full picture. Big brands employ tactics to create a ‘halo effect’ around products to promote their positive qualities, while often ‘hiding’ the negative messages in the small print. The fact is, you need to understand what to look for – on both the front and the back of the pack. Here’s how to be a more informed shopper.
What is says: Natural l
What it means Very little! Many naturally occurring ingredients are not healthy if eaten in large quantities. For example, ‘natural sugars’ implies that sugars such as those found in fruit juice are healthier than granulated sugar – this isn’t true. Some ‘healthy’ snacks are high in saturated fat and contain the equivalent of more than 2 teaspoons of sugar and 230 calories.
l l
What it says: No added sugar or unsweetened
l
What it means The product can have no sugar or sweetener added to it, yet it isn’t necessarily low in sugar or sugar-free. It can still contain ingredients that are naturally high in sugar, such as fruit (which contains fructose), and taste sweet. These products are often high in fat and/or calories.
What is says: Wholegrain, antioxidant, omega-3 rich, added vitamins What it means These imply that a product is healthy, but can distract us from the unhealthy ingredients (fat, sugar and salt). Many cereals promote added vitamins on the packaging, but may be high in sugar.
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l l
l l
What it says: Low fat What it means It contains no more than 3g of fat per 100g for food, or 1.5g per 100ml for drinks, but this doesn’t mean that the product is healthy or low-calorie. Many low-fat items are loaded with added sugar.
l
What is says: High fbre What it means It must contain at least 6g of fbre per 100g or 3g of fbre per 100 calories. However, this doesn’t mean that the product is healthy, as it may contain high levels or fat, sugar and/or salt.
bbcgoodfood.com
September 2015
Eat well
What is says: Suitable for vegans/vegetarians What it means According to the Vegetarian Society and The Vegan Society, the terms ‘vegetarian’ and ‘vegan’ on packaging cause confusion as they have no legal defnition, and are used voluntarily by manufacturers. ‘Unfortunately, when a product does say “suitable for vegetarians”, it is only an interpretation of what that company thinks is vegetarian,’ says a Vegetarian Society spokeswoman. Both organisations suggest looking for their trademarks on products to ensure that they are truly vegan or vegetarian. For more information, visit vegansociety.com and vegsoc.org.
Light, lite or reduced Must be at least 30% cent lower in a particular value, such as fat or calories, than standard products. However, products with this labelling aren’t necessarily low in fat or healthy. A product that is light in fat can still be heavy in calories by way of added sugar.
Added protein that’s promoted in energy bars, shakes, cereals and other products implies a health beneft. But nutritionists warn that the other ingredients contained in these products aren’t always good for us, and we can actually consume too much protein. On average, men should eat 55g and women 45g of protein per day. While up to twice this amount is still considered safe, excessively high levels can cause health problems.
per 100g This column makes it easier to compare products. Information is often given per portion or serving, but beware – these can be smaller than the amounts we actually eat in order to make the salt, sugar or fat content appear lower. Energy The calorie content. of which sugars (under carbohydrates) – the total sugar content, both naturally occurring and added sugars. RI for an average adult Percentage of recommended energy and nutrients needed for a healthy, balanced daily diet.
Gluten-free Many gluten-free products contain extra sugar, fat and salt to make them palatable. For example, some brands of gluten-free white bread contain fve times more fat than standard loaves.
Part of your fve-a-day
How to tell if a product is high in fat, salt and sugar (per 100g)
The offcial fve-a-day logo can only appear on pure fruit and vegetables in line with government guidelines that 80g counts as one serving. If you’re unsure what a portion looks like (and don’t want to weigh out 80g each time), check the helpful chart on our website, bbcgoodfood.com/ howto/guide/what-counts-fve-day. To add to the confusion, food manufacturers have devised their own fve-a-day logos for processed foods. These products might contain 80g of fruit or vegetable per serving, but also salt, fat and sugar. According to a Public Health England spokeswoman, the fve-a-day logo, and what constitutes a serving, is being reviewed.
Sugars • High = more than 22.5g of total sugars • Low = 5g or less of total sugars Salt • High = more than 1.5g (or 0.6g sodium) • Low = 0.3g or less (or 0.1g sodium)
Traffc light labelling – helpful or confusing?
How to spot a high sugar product at a glance Kerry Torrens, BBC Good Food’s Nutritional therapist, explains what to look for: In the ’per 100g’ column, look at ‘carbohydrates of which sugars’, and check if this is higher than the protein fgure. It’s often much higher – indicating a lot of sugar (cereals, soups and pasta sauces are often culprits). This refers to both natural and added sugars. To know how much ‘added sugar’ is included, look at how high sugars and sweeteners are on the ingredients list – these may be listed as syrups or words ending in ‘-ose’, such as glucose. If it’s one of the top two or three ingredients, I’d avoid the product.
• Do you fnd food labels helpful or confusing? We’d love to hear your views – contact us at the addresses on page 145
September 2015
Must contain less than 0.5g fat per 100g or 100ml, but this does not mean that the product is healthy or low-calorie. The claim sometimes appears on products that don’t contain fat anyway, such as sweets, and can divert attention away from unhealthy ingredients, particularly sugar. Also, as any nutritionist will point out, some fat is essential in a balanced diet anyway.
Pure protein, high protein
How to read a nutrition label
Total fat • High = more than 17.5g • Low = 3g or less Saturated fat • High = more than 5g • Low = 1.5g or less for solids and 0.75g for liquids
WHAT DO THE CLAIMS REALLY MEAN? Fat free
bbcgoodfood.com
This colour-coded, front-of-pack nutritional information tells you at a glance if a food contains high, medium or low amounts of fat, saturated fat, sugar and salt. However, critics say this oversimplifes things. For example, a regular cheese will always have a high ‘red’ label, as it’s naturally high in fat. It is, though, a great source of calcium, and a less processed food than many others. Also, although the system is useful for comparing like for like products, it is not compulsory so this isn’t always possible.
What do the manufacturers say? British food manufacturers insist that nutrition claims and information on packaging is clearer than it has ever been. Ian Wright, Director general of the Food and Drink Federation, says the industry works with health professionals to make it easier for consumers to use labels to ‘choose between products’. Claims such as ‘lite’ or ‘light’, he says, are regulated under European law and help consumers to make choices about specifc nutrients.
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Make it healthier
AUBERGINE PARMIGIANA Angela Nilsen reinvents a favourite comfort food dish, creating a lighter version that still tastes indulgent
In a classic version of this meat-free dish, the salted and fried aubergines (melanzane), a rich tomato sauce and cheese are layered up, creating a satisfying combination – but one that’s high in fat and salt. These days there’s no need to salt aubergines (originally done to remove their bitter juices) as newer varieties don’t require it, so I eliminated that process, and added plenty of oregano and basil to boost the flavour. Frying the aubergines in lots of olive oil gives them a wonderfully soft, creamy texture, but it uses a lot of fat! By slicing them lengthways, brushing them with a mixture of lemon juice and rapeseed oil (which contains less saturated fat than olive oil), then baking them, they developed a lovely soft texture, with far fewer calories. However, with all the mozzarella, this was still looking like a high-fat dish. So I used ricotta in place of some of the mozzarella. This reduced both fat and salt levels. Parmesan is a must, though, as the name of this dish implies, so I sprinkled over a light layer. Together with onion, herbs and garlic in the tomato sauce, this resulted in a richly satisfying dish.
How I made it healthier
Lighter Aubergine Parmigiana
• I didn’t salt the aubergines. • Instead of frying the aubergines, I reduced the fat by brushing the slices with a mixture of rapeseed oil (instead of olive oil) and lemon juice, and then baking them. • To cut fat and salt further, I replaced some of the mozzarella with ricotta and reduced the amount of Parmesan.
EASY
What if I… Q Used all mozzarella instead of a mix of ricotta and mozzarella? A The calories would increase by 28 kcals. Total fat would rise by 2.4g, while saturated fat would rise by 1.7g and salt by 0.2g per serving.
THE VERDICT My tasters loved this substantial veggie dish, and especially the way the layers melted together beautifully after being baked. It’s still rich, but the calorie count is reduced by 32%, total fat by 45%, saturated fat by 46% and salt by 55%.
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LOW FIBRE VIT C 2 OF 5 GOOD GLUTEN CAL A DAY 4 YOU FREE
SERVES 4 PREP 35 mins COOK 55 mins
2 tbsp rapeseed oil, plus 1 tsp 2 tbsp lemon juice 3 aubergines (750g/1lb 10oz total weight), stalk ends trimmed, cut into 1cm/1/2in lengthways slices 1 small onion, chopped 3 garlic cloves, fnely chopped 400g can plum tomatoes 225g can plum tomatoes 1 tbsp tomato purée 2 tbsp chopped fresh oregano 100g/4oz ricotta 50g/2oz mozzarella, torn into small pieces handful basil leaves, roughly torn 2 medium tomatoes, sliced 25g/1oz vegetarian-style Parmesan, grated
1 Heat oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Measure the 2 tbsp of oil into a small bowl. Brush just a little of it onto 2 large, nonstick baking sheets (if you only have 1 tray, bake the aubergines in batches). Mix the lemon juice into the measured oil. Lay the aubergine slices snugly in a single layer on the baking sheets, brush the tops with half the oil and lemon, season with pepper and bake for 20 mins. Turn the slices over, give the remaining oil and lemon mixture a good stir as it will have separated, and brush it over again. Season with pepper and bake for 10-15 mins more or until softened. 2 Meanwhile, heat the remaining 1 tsp oil in a medium saucepan. Add the onion and garlic and fry for 3-4 mins, stirring often, until the onion is softened and starting to brown. Tip in the cans of tomatoes, stir to break them up, then mix in the purée, pepper and a pinch of salt. Simmer uncovered for about 10-12 mins until thickened and saucy, then stir in the oregano. 3 Spread a little of the tomato sauce in the bottom of a shallow ovenproof dish (about 25 x 20 x 5cm). Start by laying a third of the aubergine slices widthways across the dish,
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spread over a third of the remaining sauce and put half the ricotta on top in small spoonfuls, then half the mozzarella. Scatter over half the torn basil and season well with pepper. Repeat the layering of aubergine slices, tomato sauce, ricotta, mozzarella and basil, and fnish with the fnal aubergine slices, the sliced tomatoes and the last of the sauce. Season with pepper and scatter over the Parmesan. Bake for about 20 mins, or until the cheese is golden and the juices are bubbling. PER SERVING energy 241 kcals • fat 14.6g • saturates 5.4g • carbs 12.6g • sugars 11.1g • fibre 7.8g • protein 10.8g • salt 0.5g
BOOST YOUR 5-A-DAY
Rocket & green bean salad If you serve the Parmigiana with this salad, you can count the meal as having 3 of your 5-a-day. EASY
LOW FIBRE VIT C 3 OF 5 GOOD GLUTEN CAL A DAY 4 YOU FREE
SERVES 4 PREP 5 mins COOK 5 mins
Lightly cook 150g fine green beans in a small pan of boiling water for 3-4 mins, then run under cold water. Toss the beans with a 70g pack of rocket and a handful of basil leaves. Drizzle with 1 tbsp rapeseed oil, a squeeze of lemon juice and a grinding of pepper, and gently toss together. PER SERVING (Parmigiana with salad) energy 281 kcals • fat 17.5g • saturates 5.6g • carbs 14.6g • sugars 11.8g • fibre 9.0g • protein 11.9g • salt 0.5g
PER SERVING
CLASSIC PARMIGIANA
LIGHTER VERSION
kcals
357
241
fat
26.7g
14.6g
sat fat
9.9g
5.4g
fibre
7.1g
7.8g
salt
1.1g
0.5g
September 2015
Photograph, food styling and styling ANGELA NILSEN
Traditionally, Italian cooks use up the last of their summer vegetable bounty by making this dish, known as Parmigiana di melanzane.
Eat well
Satisfying, but with fewer calories
September 2015
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ENJO Y H O R COLD OT The latest trend to hit New York’s cafe culture and artisan coffee shops throughout the UK, cold brew coffee delivers a smooth, velvety, low-acid taste. Steeping grounds in cold water over time releases only the most aromatic flavours and creates a concentrate that can be used to make delicious hot or cold coffee. The concentrate stays fresh in the fridge for up to two weeks.
NOW YOU CAN BE A PART OF THIS NEW COFFEE REVOLUTION WITH THE OXO COLD BREW COFFEE MAKER Available from Lakeland, John Lewis, Amazon and good cook shops throughout the UK.
Email:
[email protected] www.oxouk.com
Thoughtfully Yours.
Eat well
HEALTHY SLAWS
3
Spice up your slaw with these simple no-cook ideas Recipes CHELSIE COLLINS Photograph SAM STOWELL
Easy creamy coleslaw m ea cr sy Ea
EASY
LOW VIT C 2 OF 5 FAT A DAY
SERVES 4 PREP 20 mins NO COOK
y
1
/2 white cabbage, shredded 2 carrots, grated 4 spring onions, chopped 2 tbsp sultanas 3 tbsp low-fat mayonnaise 1 tbsp wholegrain mustard
1 Put the cabbage, carrots, spring onions and sultanas in a large bowl and stir to combine. 2 Mix the mayonnaise with the mustard in another small bowl and drizzle over the veg. Fold everything together to coat in the creamy sauce, then season to taste. PER SERVING energy 151 kcals • fat 5g • saturates 1g • carbs 20g • sugars 14g • fibre 5g • protein 3g • salt 0.7g
Goes well with Turkey, bacon & avocado mini bagels on page 54
Spicy mango citrus slaw EASY
LOW FOLATE VIT C 3 OF 5 GLUTEN FAT A DAY FREE
co les law
Crunchy red cabbage slaw EASY
1 OF 5 VIT C A DAY
SERVES 4 PREP 15 mins NO COOK 1
/2 red cabbage, shredded 2 tbsp sesame seeds 2 tbsp pumpkin seeds 2 tbsp sunfower oil 1 tbsp red wine vinegar 2 tsp soy sauce 1 tsp golden caster sugar
1 Put the red cabbage in a large bowl with the seeds and toss to combine. 2 Make the dressing by mixing all the remaining ingredients together in a small bowl or jug. Pour the dressing over the cabbage and seeds, and serve immediately. PER SERVING energy 157 kcals • fat 11g • saturates 2g • carbs 8g • sugars 5g • fibre 3g • protein 4g • salt 0.5g
SERVES 4 PREP 25 mins NO COOK 1
Great with Thai salmon skewers with edamame & quinoa on page 117
Crunchy red cabbage slaw
Spicy mango citrus slaw
1 Combine the mooli, white cabbage, red pepper and mango in a large bowl. Add the sliced chilli and scatter with the chopped coriander. 2 Pour the lime juice over and toss well so that all the vegetables are coated.
l
/2 mooli (white Asian radish), cut into matchsticks 1 /2 white cabbage, shredded 1 red pepper, cut into matchsticks 1 mango, peeled and cut into chunks 1 green chilli (deseeded if you don’t like it too hot), sliced 1 /2 small pack coriander, roughly chopped juice 1 lime
Food styling LUCY O’REILLY | Styling SARAH BIRKS
PER SERVING energy 114 kcals • fat 1g • saturates none • carbs 21g • sugars 21g • fibre 5g • protein 3g • salt 0.1g
Serve alongside the Loaded naans on page 46
September 2015
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& no gluten! Great taste
We put dozens of gluten-free products to the test with the help of actress Caroline Quentin, who has coeliac disease Photographs DAVID COTSWORTH
Although Caroline has suffered from symptoms of coeliac disease for most of her adult life, she wasn’t aware that gluten was to blame and was not offcially diagnosed until earlier this year. She is now patron of the charity Coeliac UK. ‘Some people think that coeliac disease is a synonym for fussy eater,’ says Caroline, ‘but it isn’t – it’s an autoimmune disease. ‘A tiny amount of gluten the size of a grain of rice makes me terribly unwell, so accidental “poisoning” in restaurants or at work can be a nightmare. We’ve adapted to an entirely gluten-free kitchen at home to avoid any cross-contamination.
The test
My husband Sam and I share the cooking. We love fsh and seafood, and I grow all our own vegetables at our home in Devon. ‘Over the summer our diet tends to be based on vegetables and, as my daughter is vegetarian, our meals are often free from gluten and meat. ‘For anyone who has been recently diagnosed, my advice is to read labels on food carefully – gluten is hidden in lots of places that you wouldn’t expect to fnd it. And you can compensate in other ways. For example, I do miss normal pasta, but instead I look for a great sauce recipe, with lots of “bite”. Something with plenty of chunky veg in it.’
We tested more than 70 popular foods that normally contain gluten, including breads, pastries, cereals and sausages. We were looking for an appealing texture and appearance, as well as value for money and, of course, a great taste. Here’s what we discovered…
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Heck 97% pork sausages, £3/400g, Tesco Made Without Wheat brown seeded loaf, £3, Marks & Spencer
Tortellini with Parma ham and Parmesan cheese, £3.95/250g, coori.co.uk
A lovely natural ‘toasted’ favour from the added seeds. Caroline: ‘This loaf has got a very nice bounce to it.’
These little parcels are full of favour and quick to cook. The pasta itself is thin and light.
Free From Penne, £1.40/ 500g, Tesco
BFree multigrain wraps, £2.80 for 6, Asda These wraps are thin, but don’t tear. They’re made from potato and corn starch, as well as rice, quinoa, millet, teff and buckwheat fours.
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There wasn’t a huge amount of variation in this category, and unfortunately most gluten-free penne tends to be either gluey or too hard. This one is made from potato starch and cooks to a good al dente texture. Caroline: ‘It’s almost how I remember pasta!’
Finely ground pork, creating a delicious no-frills OUR BEST BUY sausage. They’re made from lean pork shoulder, OVERALL but are still very juicy. Caroline: ‘The perfect breakfast sausage!’
Taste the Difference herb & pork sausages, £2.80/400g, Sainsbury’s These are a great choice whether you are avoiding gluten or not, so a good family buy. The meat is juicy and we liked the coarse texture. Caroline: ‘The herby favours made these sausages particularly good.’
September 2015
On test special
Coeliac UK member Maria O’Sullivan with Caroline and the Good Food team ww
‘Gluten is hidden in lots of places that you wouldn’t expect to fnd it’
BEST OF THE BISCUITS
Made Without Wheat pizza bases, £3.60/2, Marks & Spencer These stone-baked bases, made with olive oil, have lots of favour and create a thin and crispy pizza.
Love Life Free From chocolate muffins, £1.55/2, Waitrose Many of the muffns we tried were very dry, but we chose these because they’re a bit more like a cake. We also like the brownie-style crust on top.
Finest Free From triple chocolate cookies, £2, Tesco This cookie is absolutely laden with chocolate, so you don’t miss the gluten! It’s crumbly and packed with white chocolate chunks.
Free From milk chocolate digestives, £1.35/ 200g, Morrisons Gluten-free shortbread, £2.50/140g, walkersshortbread.com Rice four works well in these biscuits, giving them the distinctive ‘short’, buttery texture. The ingredients list is reassuringly brief, too.
Compiled by HOLLY BROOKE-SMITH
BEST OF THE MUFFINS
Mrs Crimble’s Bakewell slices, £1.25/200g, Sainsbury’s
Made Without Wheat blueberry muffins, £2.40, Marks & Spencer
These little slices have a lovely texture – not at all dry – and hold together well. Very moreish with a cup of tea.
Light, buttery and generously speckled with fruit – what more could you want? This was a standout favourite of all the muffns we tested. Caroline: ‘A revelation! I will defnitely be buying these.’
September 2015
Free From chunky chocolate chip cookies, £1.35/150g, Morrisons A caramel favour comes through from the brown sugar and the cookies have a very light, almost macaroon texture. Caroline: ‘One of the nicest biscuits I’ve had for ages.’
bbcgoodfood.com
We loved these. They’re made from gluten-free oat four which gives a crisp but crumbly texture. Caroline: ‘These are really digestive-y!’
Find out more n For more information
Free From chocolate brownies, £1.99, Co-op These little squares have a good crust and lots of chocolate chunks. They’re rich and pretty indulgent. Caroline: ‘Brownies are easy to make without gluten – these are very good.’
and advice about gluten-free eating and coeliac disease, visit www.coeliac.org.uk. n Find our tested gluten-free recipes, plus advice about following a gluten-free diet, at bbcgoodfood.com/ howto/guide/spotlightgluten-free.
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Cook school
Friends coming over? Impress your guests without getting stressed with these tips from the Good Food team. After all, you want to enjoy the gathering too!
ENTERTAINING
SPECIAL
KNOW YOUR ONIONS
To find recipes for onion rings, visit bbcgoodfood. com/recipes/ onion-rings
Cookery assistant Chelsie Collins has nibbles on the go when people arrive so they aren’t waiting around for the main event. ‘I put out dips, such as smashed avocado (squeeze over lime to prevent browning) with red chilli; soured cream with chopped chives; and extra virgin olive oil and balsamic vinegar. Serve with breadsticks or crisp flatbreads – cut tortilla wraps into triangles, sprinkle with paprika and bake at 200C/180C fan/gas 6 for 6-8 mins. ‘For mains, I like serving slow-cooked meats, platters of
Assistant food editor Miriam Nice was asked by her friends Hayley and Paul to create their wedding cake, which needed to be gluten-, wheat- and dairy-free. ‘I turned to a favourite book, Red Velvet & Chocolate Heartache by Harry Eastwood (£20, Bantam), which contains ingenious recipes, often made from alternatives to butter and wheat. Hayley and Paul wanted a ‘naked cake’ – three tiers of Victoria sandwich flled with raspberry jam. I found a free-from recipe involving potato, which was delicious. ‘If you’re making an occasion cake, pack a bag of items to use for fnishing touches. Mine contained elderfower cordial and icing sugar, so I could make a batch of icing without getting in the caterers’ way, and a tea-infusing ball, which I flled with icing sugar as an impromptu sugar duster. ‘Using homemade jam meant I could control the fnal consistency. I aimed for something in between a jam and a compote, which kept the finished cake moist.’
cured meat, big salads and something with crunch. Everyone remembers the food if they’ve eaten something crunchy – whether it’s a roast potato, a piece of crackling or beer-battered onion rings.’ ‘Crispy garnishes such as shallot rings add extra texture to a dish. A great cheat is to buy crispy fried shallots in a tub and sprinkle them on top of salads, canapés or side dishes. Of course, you can fry your own, but this isn’t everyone’s idea of pre-dinner fun.’
WHEAT, GLUTEN AND
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For maximum flavour, we nearly always toast seeds and nuts before adding them to a recipe. A few minutes in a warm pan or oven makes all the difference to the taste of the finished dish. Try toasting pine nuts before whizzing into pesto, or poppy seeds for a lemon & poppy seed cake.
DAIRY-FREE! l
TOAST FOR THE MOST
September 2015
Photographs ALAMY, GETTY, ISTOCKPHOTO | Bread illustration RACHEL BAYLY
If you’re following a recipe that instructs you to sweat the onions until translucent, add a pinch of salt at the beginning of the cooking time – it will draw out some of the moisture and prevent them from browning.
Cook school
BE INVENTIVE WHEN SERVING …use a teapot to dish up soup
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Senior food editor Barney Desmazery ‘My number-one rule is to never venture into the unknown simply because you feel you should be cooking “the latest thing”. You’ll enjoy yourself far more if you are confdent about what you’re cooking, rather than exploring unfamiliar recipes and ingredients.’ ‘Think out of the pan. Sometimes it’s not what you serve, but how you serve it. One of the most successful starters I ever served was a seafood bisque that I poured from a vintage teapot into teacups containing crabmeat. It’s still being talked about a year later!
Food editor Cassie Best got married earlier this summer. She and her husband, James, have been determined to keep the party going by entertaining friends at home. ‘Try to pick at least one no-cook course – such as a seafood platter for a starter, or a simple Eton mess for dessert. It takes the pressure off and leaves the oven free for your main course. ‘It’s getting towards the end of the barbecue season, but if you’re still cooking small items (such as cocktail sausages, or James Martin’s spring onions on page 68) outside, invest in a cheap wire cooling rack to put on the barbecue. No more bangers falling to an ashy grave!’
‘If you are cooking for more than four people, avoid frying or griddling. Even the most experienced cook will get in a wobble about timing food perfectly. Instead, choose something braised or roasted, which can sit in the oven keeping warm until you’re ready.’
KEEN BREADMAKER?
Keep a shower cap in your kitchen drawer for covering the bowl when proving your dough. Think of all that cling flm you’ll be saving!
Over the years, Consultant editor Orlando Murrin, who has run boutique B&Bs in the UK and France, has perfected the art of producing memorable food without losing his cool. ‘If possible, make it a help-yourself occasion. It’s less formal than restaurant-style plating up. Set out the food on a side table, then let your guests serve themselves. ‘Performers know that what is remembered is how you start and how you fnish, so it’s worth going to town on wonderful nibbles. Whether you buy them or make them yourself, choose top-quality ingredients and give your guests something to talk about. Don’t forget to serve coffee, tea and chocolates at the end of the meal too.’
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ESCAPE WITH RICK THIS SUMMER ‘I like to think of the cities of Venice and Istanbul as two large books propping up a shelf full of stories about the cooking of the Eastern Mediterranean’
rick stein
@rick_stein www.rickstein.com
AVAILABLE NOW
Accompanying the major BBC Two series
Cook school
Baking is an art and a science – and the science part can let you down once in a while. Here’s how to diagnose common problems and stop them happening again Illustrations LAUREN RADLEY
Cake didn’t rise u You didn’t use enough raising agent u The raising agent might be past its sell-by date u Oven temperature might have been wrong, see ‘Get the measurements right’ (below right) u Oven door was opened too early during baking
Cake rose in oven, then collapsed u Cake was removed from oven too soon and was uncooked in the middle u You used too much raising agent
Domed or cracked top u Oven temperature was too high u Cake tin was too small, see ‘Get the measurements right’ (far right) Remember Cupcakes should have a domed top TIP To stop fruitcakes doming, use a spoon to make a 2-3cm deep indentation, sloping smoothly towards the centre, before baking
Surface covered with holes u Oven temperature was too low u Raising agent wasn’t mixed in thoroughly u Cake was not put in oven quickly enough after mixing. Next time, don’t let the mixture/batter stand around for too long before cooking
Fruit sunk to the bottom u Cake mixture too slack – use less liquid u Fruit was too large – chop or slice smaller u Fruit was too syrupy – rinse and dry thoroughly TIP Try dusting the fruit with four to give it more ‘grip’ in the mixture
September 2015
Bake is chewy or heavy
Tastes ‘fzzy’
u Cake mixture was overmixed after the four was added u Not enough raising agent, or too much liquid in the recipe u Did the mixture curdle while you were preparing it? Next time, add 1 tsp of the measured four in between the eggs
u The cake is underbaked and the four is not ‘cooked out’ u There is too much raising agent in the mix. You might have measured incorrectly, see ‘Get the measurements right’ (below)
Dry u It may have been overbaked, see ‘Overor Underbaked’ (below right) u There wasn’t enough liquid in the recipe u Gluten-free bakes sometimes seem dry because of the lack of ‘chew’ (which gluten would provide)
Tastes dull u If you are disappointed with your bake’s favour, next time, try adding a pinch of salt or a squeeze of lemon juice to the batter. Or soak the cooked sponge in a favoured syrup
Soggy middle u The cake is undercooked – see ‘Over-or Underbaked’ (right) u The cake has been cooked at too high a temperature, so the edges may be brown, but the middle is still wet TIP Cut a disc of baking parchment and tear a small hole in the middle. Put it on top of the cake when the crust is cooked, to allow the cake to cook through without the crust browning further
GET THE MEASUREMENTS RIGHT Sloppy measuring is probably the cause of most problem bakes. Remember: • Always use cooks’ measuring spoons • Teaspoons and tablespoons must always be level • Measure cake tins across the bottom to ensure that they are the correct size • Use an oven thermometer for accuracy • Read the whole recipe before starting • Place your bake on the middle shelf of the oven, unless instructed otherwise
OVER- OR UNDERBAKED? Knowing when a cake is cooked is an art • Is it shrinking away from the sides of the tin? • Lightly touch the top – is it frm? (Sponge cakes should feel springy.) Give the tin a gentle shake – does the cake look set? (Brownies are the exception). • For many cakes, the fnal test is with a skewer or cocktail stick – it should come out clean or, in the case of most chocolate cakes, with a few crumbs attached when inserted into the centre of the cake.
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Learn to make sourdough Making your own sourdough loaf is the ultimate baking challenge. Once you’ve mastered it, you’ll never look back
Recipe CASSIE BEST Photographs DARREN FEIST
What’s all the fuss about? A sourdough loaf has become a popular addition to many a breakfast table (poached eggs and avocado anyone?), but what is it about this loaf that we love so much? Chris Young, from the Real Bread Campaign, explains what sets sourdough apart. ‘The lactic acid bacteria and naturally occurring yeasts in the starter help to develop the distinctly sour favour and waxy structure of the loaf. They also change the dough, reducing the bread’s Glycaemic Index (GI), so it doesn’t cause spikes in insulin.’ Read more about Sourdough September at realbreadcampaign.org.
It starts with a starter Sourdough is made with a starter – sometimes called a mother – which is a fermented mixture made from four and water. Additional ingredients (such as grapes, raisins or nettles) are sometimes added to trigger the fermentation process and favour the starter, but they aren’t essential. The beauty is that each starter will taste slightly different. Micro-organisms in the air, four, water and temperature all affect the favour – one might be more acidic, another slightly sweeter. Many sourdough afcionados swap starters with friends, or even bring them back from their travels (San Francisco sourdough is legendary). As part of the ‘feeding’ process, you’ll need to discard a little of the starter every day for a week or so (see step 3 opposite), so why not hand it out to your friends and start a sourdough baking club – your bread bin will never be the same again.
MORE OF A CHALLENGE
It does require patience
MAKES 1 loaf PREP 1 hr plus 8 days for the starter and 3 hrs rising COOK 40 mins
It can take between one and fve days for your starter to begin fermenting, depending on the temperature and environment. Persevere for up to six days – if you still don’t see any signs of life, or the starter smells unpleasant, throw it away and start again.
FOR THE STARTER 700g/1lb 9oz strong white four FOR THE LOAF 500g/1lb 2oz strong white four, plus extra for dusting 1 tsp fne salt 1 tbsp clear honey 300g/11oz sourdough starter favourless oil, for greasing PER SERVING energy 245 kcals • fat 1g • saturates none • carbs 48g • sugars 1g • fibre 2g • protein 8g • salt 0.4g
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Keep a loaf in the freezer Sourdough bread freezes really well, so if you know you won’t eat the whole loaf, freeze half for another day. Defrost on a wire rack, covered with a tea towel, so that the bread doesn’t dry out or develop a soggy bottom.
Do I need a proving basket? The dough will rise perfectly well in a bowl, but for the distinctive outline on the side of your loaf, use a proving basket (also called a banneton). Usually made from natural cane woven in a spiral pattern, they come in oval or round shapes. Make sure that you four the basket really well before using, pushing four into all the grooves, and never wash it – simply tap out the old four after every use. You can buy them from cookshops or online at johnlewis.com.
• To watch a video showing how to knead dough, click on the 'How to' section at bbcgoodfood.com
NEXT MONTH Theo Randall’s Rotolo – a classic vegetarian pasta dish
bbcgoodfood.com
September 2015
Food styling and styling JULIA AZZARELLO
Sourdough bread
Cook school Storing your starter
For best results
If you plan to make sourdough every 2-3 days, keep it at room temperature, and feed it every day or two. If less often, keep the starter in the fridge, feed it once a week, then leave it at room temperature for 24 hours.
If using the starter from the fridge, leave at room temperature for 24 hours. Always try to use your starter when it is ‘hungry’ (has not been fed for 24 hours). Leave about 200ml of the starter in your jar for the next loaf.
1
2
4
5
7
8
9
10
11
12
First, make your starter. In a large bowl, mix together 100g of the four with 125ml slightly warm water. Whisk together until smooth and lump-free.
After 3-4 days you should start to see bubbles appearing on the surface, and it will smell yeasty and a little acidic. This is a good indicator that the starter is working.
Tip onto a lightly foured surface and knead for 10 mins until soft and elastic – you should be able to stretch it without it tearing. If you‘re using a mixer, turn up the speed a little and mix for 5 mins.
Place the dough, seam-side up, in the bowl or proving basket, cover with a sheet of oiled cling flm and leave at room temperature for 6-8 hrs, or until roughly doubled in size.
September 2015
Transfer the starter to a large jar (a 1-litre Kilner jar is good) or a plastic container. Leave the jar or container lid ajar for 1 hr or so in a warm place (around 25C is ideal), then seal and set aside for 24 hrs.
On day 7, the starter should be quite bubbly and smell much sweeter. It is now ready to be used in baking.
Place the dough in a large, well-oiled bowl and cover with oiled cling flm. Leave in a warm place to rise for 3 hrs. You may not see much movement, but don’t be disheartened, as sourdough takes much longer to rise than a conventional yeasted bread.
Place a large baking tray in the oven, and heat to 230C/210C fan/gas 8. Fill a small roasting tin with a little water and place this in the bottom of the oven to create steam. Remove the baking tray from the oven, sprinkle with four, then carefully tip the risen dough onto the tray.
bbcgoodfood.com
3
For the next 6 days, you will need to ‘feed’ the starter. Each day, tip away half of the original starter, add an extra 100g of four and 125ml slightly warm water, and stir well. Try to do this at the same time every day.
6
Tip the four, 225ml warm water, the salt, honey and the starter into a bowl, or a mixer ftted with a dough hook. Stir with a wooden spoon, or on a slow setting in the machine, until combined – add extra four if it’s too sticky or a little extra warm water if it’s too dry.
Line a medium-sized bowl with a clean tea towel and four it really well or, if you have a proving basket, you can use this (see opposite). Tip the dough back onto your work surface and knead briefly to knock out any air bubbles. Shape the dough into a smooth ball and dust it with four.
Slash the top a few times with a sharp knife, if you like, then bake for 35-40 mins until golden brown. It will sound hollow when tapped on the bottom. Leave to cool on a wire rack for 20 mins before serving.
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Versatile pressure cooker Use less energy and save time with the Instant Pot seven-in-one electric pressure cooker Take the guesswork out of your pressure-cooking with the Instant Pot – the number-one brand of electric pressure cookers in the US, now available in the UK. The versatile Instant Pot Duo is much more than a pressure cooker and cooks everything from roasts, soups and stews to risottos and pasta – even desserts!
READER OFFERS
The six-litre Instant Pot Duo has seven different functions: n Automatic pressure cooker n Slow cooker n Rice cooker n Steamer – for healthy cooking n Food warmer n Yogurt maker n Plus, you can sauté directly in the cooking pot
You don’t have to adjust the heat to regulate pressure, and it doesn’t rattle or hiss like other pressure cookers. The stainless-steel cooking pot, which can go in the dishwasher, can also be used on the hob (except induction) or in the oven.
ONLY
£109 Save £50 on the rrp
Accessories include n
A stainless-steel steam rack Rice paddle n Soup spoon n Measuring cup n Instruction manual n Recipe booklet, cooking timetables and a quick-start guide n
Exclusive offer for BBC Good Food readers Order now for just £109 – p&p is free, plus all orders will receive free Instant Pot mitts, worth £15, and a spare sealing ring, worth £15 The Instant Pot mini mitts are specifcally designed to grip the inner pot when sautéing or removing from the cooker. They are made of high-grade, heat-resistant silicone and are dishwasher safe.
‘Instant Pot is a fantastic addition to any kitchen. It cooks healthy meals perfectly in less than 15 minutes’
How to order your Instant Pot Duo Visit instantpot.co.uk and enter GOODFOOD20154 at the checkout to obtain the discount or send your name with a cheque payable to Earlyview Ltd to: BBC Good Food Offer GOODFOOD20154, Earlyview Ltd, 15 Walton Business Centre, Walton-on-Thames KT12 2SD. Terms and conditions Delivery within 28 days to UK mainland only, some exclusions may apply. Offer subject to availability. If you are not completely satisfed with your product, please call our customer services on 03331 230051 or email
[email protected] and we will advise you of the best way to return the goods. Orders returned within 14 days in perfect condition will receive a no-quibble, money-back guarantee (less p&p). Data protection BBC Worldwide Limited and Immediate Media Company Limited (publishers of BBC Good Food) would love to keep you informed of their special offers and promotions. Please state at time of booking/enquiring if you do not wish to receive these from BBC Worldwide or Immediate Media Company.
Michel Roux Jr
To order, visit instantpot.co.uk and enter offer code GOODFOOD20154 at the checkout September 2015
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From your kitchen
We love to hear from you. Email
[email protected] or write to the address opposite FOLLOW THAT FOODIE!
My mum and sister always cooked when I was young, but I was never interested. When I went to university, my parents were very concerned about what I would eat, so I started a subscription to Good Food. The magazine was eagerly anticipated by everyone each month. We would sit together and choose a main and dessert, which I would cook. It was lovely to work together and my cooking skills certainly improved. Now I feel confdent enough to hold dinner parties. Gwen Harries (pictured above, third from left), Llandudno
Here’s my six-year-old, Eve, with the Almond & raspberry cruffns (April) we baked together. It took us some time, but it was defnitely worth it when we ate them for breakfast the next morning. Leanne Crossley, West Yorkshire
Gwen wins 12 bottles of Louis Jadot BeaujolaisVillages Combe aux Jacques (£10.99, Tesco). This fresh, fruity red wine is packed with strawberry and cherry favours.
With four hungry mouths to feed, including a daughter off to an activity week in need of a hearty packed lunch, I decided to make the Courgette & cheddar soda bread recipe (June). It went down a treat. Milly Woodard, Pewsey • What’s inspired you to try something new? Contact us at the addresses opposite.
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Here’s my version of the Malted chocolate drizzle & honeycomb cake (June), which I baked for my dad’s 57th birthday. Everyone thought it looked great and tasted even better. I’m making it again for a competition at my school fête. Kate Roberts-Lilley, Co Durham
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I baked the Gravity-defying sweetie cake (July) for my husband’s birthday. His guests couldn’t work out how I’d done it! Liz Simmonds, Cambridge
Here’s my son Freddy, six, on the frst day he cooked all by himself. He was so pleased, he made Baked dippy eggs (from bbcgoodfood.com) for his big sister and younger twin brother and sister. Katie McTernaghan, Co Armagh
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Each month we talk to one of our Instagram followers about their cooking. Get involved at @bbcgoodfood and use #bbcgoodfood when you cook one of our recipes. Emma Porter, 27, lives in London and follows a Paleo diet – which excludes dairy, cereal and processed food. Follow her at @paleowithmrsp. Emma has more than 5,800 followers. What do you post? Whatever delicious things I’m eating or cooking. I also share inspirational photos from my blog. I try to keep each post different – not too many sweet treats all in a row or too many smoothies after one other. Describe your style My photos are bright, colourful and simple. What gets your ‘like’? A well-shot photo and something that captures my imagination. A good food photo must have just the right styling, look delicious and not be too busy. How do you cook? I like to experiment 166 – I throw things likes together and hope for the best. I love trying new favours and having dinner parties. Your signature dish? Probably my Nut 204 butter curry. It’s likes really simple and so quick to make, yet it tastes like it’s had hours of preparation – there’s so much favour. Emma recommends 166 @sunshineandseasalt likes – gluten-free coastal food. @goeatyourbeets – food photograper Trisha Hughes.
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[email protected]; or call 01435 866102. If enquiring on behalf of someone who has trouble with their sight, please consult them frst.
September 2015
READER RECIPE Katie’s allotment cake
4 Meanwhile, make the courgette layers. Put the sugar, eggs and oil in a large bowl and use a hand whisk to combine. Sieve in the dry ingredients and fold in, then add the courgettes and mix together. 5 Pour the courgette cake mixture into the remaining 2 cake tins and bake for 20-25 mins or until golden brown. Leave to cool in the tins, then turn out onto wire racks to cool fully. 6 To make the frosting, tip the butter into a large bowl and beat with an electric hand whisk until smooth. Add the cream cheese and beat again. Sieve in the icing sugar and beat until combined. 7 Layer up the cakes alternately, spreading a little frosting between each layer as you go. Cover the whole cake with the rest of the frosting and serve. Will keep for 2 days in an airtight container.
A LITTLE EFFORT
un-iced SERVES 16 PREP 40 mins COOK 20-25 mins
FOR THE CARROT LAYERS 200g/7oz light brown soft sugar 2 eggs, beaten 200ml/7f oz sunfower oil 200g/7oz spelt four 3 /4 tsp bicarbonate of soda 3 /4 tsp baking powder 3 /4 tsp cinnamon 1 /2 tsp ground ginger 200g/7oz carrots, grated 1 /4 tsp vanilla extract FOR THE COURGETTE LAYERS 100g/4oz golden caster sugar 2 eggs, beaten 125ml/4f oz sunfower oil 225g/8oz spelt four 3 /4 tsp bicarbonate of soda 3 /4 tsp baking powder 3 /4 tsp mixed spice 250g/9oz courgettes, grated FOR THE FROSTING 50g/2oz butter, softened 250g/9oz cream cheese 600g/1lb 5oz icing sugar
PER SERVING energy 625 kcals • fat 32g • saturates 9g • carbs 76g • sugars 59g • fibre 2g • protein 6g • salt 0.7g
SHARE YOUR RECIPES AND WIN A PRIZE
Katie Ready, 24, a project manager, lives in south-west London with her boyfriend, Alex. She loves cooking for her family, especially her mum Rachel, who inspired her to get in the kitchen.
Send your recipes to the addresses below or use the tag @bbcgoodfood on Instagram, and you could win a prize. Katie wins an easy clean, toughened enamel interior Le Creuset signature cast iron round casserole (rrp £175) in satin black.
How to contact us Email us at
[email protected] Write to BBC Good Food, Immediate Media Company Limited, Vineyard House, 44 Brook Green, Hammersmith, London W6 7BT
Test Kitchen verdict A lovely light cake, and the frosting added a sweet creamy fnish to each bite. It didn’t last long in the Test Kitchen! You could decorate with edible fowers or chopped nuts, if you like.
September 2015
OD
Carrots a nd courgettes work a treat in this bake
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Recipe photograph DAVID MUNNS | Food styling JENNIFER JOYCE | Styling REBECCA NEWPORT
1 Heat oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4. Line 4 x 20cm cake tins with baking parchment (or use 2 and make the carrot sponges frst, then the courgette layers). 2 Start by making the carrot layers. Put the sugar, eggs and oil in a large mixing bowl. Using an electric whisk, beat until incorporated. Sieve the four and all the dry ingredients into the same bowl, then gently fold in before adding the carrot, a pinch of salt and vanilla extract. Stir to combine. 3 Divide the carrot cake mixture between 2 of the prepared cake tins and bake for 20-25 mins or until golden brown and frm to the touch. Leave the cakes to cool in the tins for a few mins, then turn out onto wire racks when cool enough to handle.
FOOD T E
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The food chain
I frst met Valentine a few years ago at a dinner for an enterprise called Root Camp (rootcamp.co.uk). They teach kids about food and how to cook. He was barbecuing away, I got talking to him and thought, ‘Well this is an interesting fellow.’ I know lots of lovely chefs and they’re terrifc, but they can only talk about food, the kitchen and other chefs – they don’t have other interests. Valentine has many; I like that. I saw him recently at the Malton Food Lovers Festival in Yorkshire. He did a demonstration and a talk, and he was everywhere, compering and helping. I love his food. He’s very keen on sustainable, real food – not drizzles, foam and all that stuff I can’t stand. I was amused because he was having such a good time that he decided to stay overnight for another party. The next morning, he didn’t look great. He works hard and, boy, does he play hard. He goes full tilt at life. I was chairing a panel, we were all sitting there, and suddenly he jumped up and ran out. I apologised to the audience. The next minute, he’s back and, as he slid into the chair, he said into the microphone, ‘Well, that’ll teach me to have four pints of beer before lunch’. Everybody adored him. He’s attractive and charismatic – he’s got that quality Marco Pierre White had when he was young, but without the egotism and temper. When he’s done his demonstration or whatever, he’ll stick around, not just because he has books to sign, but because people want to talk to him. He’s just happy to talk to anybody. Prue’s latest novel, The Food of Love, is published 17 September (£19.99, Quercus).
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Prue Leith Valentine Warner
Two outspoken and progressive foodies have forged a friendship founded on mutual admiration and respect Interviews DEBORA ROBERTSON
Prue Leith in 1970; she is now a judge on the BBC’s Great British Menu. Valentine Warner has always championed seasonal cooking
‘He’s got that quality Marco Pierre White had when he was young, but without the egotism and temper’
Don’t miss next month’s
Valentine Warner trained as a portrait painter before becoming a chef, broadcaster and best-selling food writer. He is a champion of British produce and seasonal cooking. A keen outdoorsman, he is often to be found on a riverbank, fshing. His latest venture, the Moorland Spirit Company, distils gin and whisky in Northumberland. Over the years, I’d met Prue at a million different events, but just to say hello. Obviously I’d heard a lot about her, and seen her on telly. Then one day I really got talking to her and it was love straight away really. She’s just somebody who’s so utterly switched on. She has impeccable manners. It’s a nice dance when you talk to her. We live in an age where everyone’s blurting all the time. Prue’s very measured, but still very exciting to talk to. She’s got a glint in her eye, and I like that because you know it’s going to be fun being with her. Prue’s done so many valuable things for food in this country. British food took a real bashing in the past and Prue did a lot to take it on from there, and to move it forward. She’s very loyal to British food, championing people and producers. Root Camp is about taking children into nature, and making the link between nature and food very clear to them. Prue and I are in agreement that if you break that link and stop thinking about nature, then you’ve got a lot of problems. We can’t be here without nature, but nature sure as hell can be here without us. She sits on a lot of boards, and it’s important that she does – she’s a good thinker. She’s fair, and not selfimportant. People in her position can be, to the point where they erode their value. She’s a modest person: it’s about her job, not about her. But when you see her in a busy room full of people, you think, ‘Great, she’s arrived. It’s going to be a good evening.’ Find out what Valentine is up to at valentinewarner.com.
on sale 30 September
Authentic Indian curries • James Martin’s Bonfre feast • Winterproof your diet – super soups and smoothies • Swedish supper for two 146
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September 2015
Photographs DAVID COTSWORTH, BBC, DAILY MAIL/REX/SHUTTERSTOCK
Prue Leith’s career as a restaurateur, caterer, broadcaster, food writer and campaigner has spanned more than 50 years. She was born in South Africa and has played a key role in revolutionising Britain’s eating habits since arriving in the Sixties. Prue founded her eponymous cook school 40 years ago, before selling her interest in 1993. She has also written 20 books.
