BBC Good Food 2017-08

August 2017

Britain’s biggest-selling food magazine

August 2017

the

Lamb shank madras • Grilled aubergine, watermelon & sesame salad • Butter-poached peaches

COOL

issue heatwave hotdogs poolside salads

refreshing lollies easiest ever

37meals

summer

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lub Tro pica na ice cream cake

! 55 coolest al fresco hot spots ! Europe's best active foodie breaks

(yes, really!)

MAC ’N’ CHEESE gets a makeover £4.35

bbcgoodfood.com

ENJOY THE SUNSHINE

Why you should chill red wine

Welcome to August One of the most refreshing things to happen in restaurants in recent years is the demise of the bullying behaviour once considered the norm in highly-pressurised kitchens in favour of a calmer, more collaborative approach. What’s exciting us now is sitting at the counter of an open kitchen, watching chefs at work and chatting to them as they cook. This month we feature recipes from newcomer Neo Bistro, where head chef Alex Harper is supported by his ex-colleague and chef-patron Mark Jarvis of the award-winning restaurant Anglo (p114). The relaxed approach is evident in the laidback décor (exposed brick walls, not a tablecloth is sight) and a short, chalkboard menu of British seasonal dishes. This informal approach is particularly welcome in the warmer months when simple, well-sourced and simply cooked food appeals most. From sourdough pizza by the canal in Leeds to superior street food in Bristol, we’ve hit on Britain’s best alfresco eating spots (p70) in 55 of the best places to keep cool this August. Have we missed anywhere? Drop us an email (address, right) or tweet or Instagram your summer favourites @bbcgoodfood #bbcgfopinion.

Christine Hayes Editor-in-chief @bbcgoodfood @chrishayesUK

T BEAT THr EcoHolEeA t s withpoesuever p53 reci

Subscribe this month We’ve now launched our new Subscriber Club, with exclusive free events, discounted special offers and much more. To subscribe, please turn to page 50.

Save 20% on Show tickets

See page 120 for details, and use code GFR2 to claim your discount (T&Cs apply). KEEP IN TOUCH Call 020 8433 3983 (Mon-Fri 9.30am-5.30pm) Email hello@bbcgoodfood magazine.com Write to us at the addresses on page 150 Visit bbcgoodfood.com Follow facebook.com/ bbcgoodfood, Instagram and Twitter @bbcgoodfood

Star contributors this issue Ben Fogle The broadcaster and adventurer tells us all about his favourite food memories and what he ate on expeditions across the Atlantic (p84).

Tom Kitchin The BBC chef champions Scottish produce in his grouse sausage rolls (p13). ‘I don’t know anyone who doesn’t enjoy a sausage roll,’ says Tom. Adding grouse to the filling is a great way to make it even better.’

Victoria Moore Thought chilling red wine was a sin? Our wine editor recommends you try it this summer (p65).

AUGUST 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 3

contents

Why you can trust BBC Good Food is the UK’s No 1 food lifestyle media brand. We are passionate about food and cooking. While recipes are at the heart of what we do, we are committed to helping you to have the best food experience you can, whether you are shopping for food, in your kitchen or eating out in the UK or abroad. This is what we promise… Biggest and best We’re proud to be Britain’s biggest-selling food magazine and the UK’s No 1 food website, bbcgoodfood.com. Our contributors – BBC chefs, our in-house cookery team and confident, outspoken columnists – are experts in their fields. Meet us at the UK’s biggest food shows (visit bbcgoodfoodshow.com for dates and details). Our best-selling cookbooks feature our trusted recipes – you’ll find these in bookshops. Recipes for everyone There are 70 new recipes in every issue – that’s more than any other food magazine in Britain. We always include quick, easy dishes, ideas for relaxed entertaining, and more challenging recipes for when you want to take your skills up a notch. Look out for our regular easiest-ever recipes. Tested and trusted We triple-test all our recipes, so they’ll work first time for you (once by the writer or chef, once or twice in the Good Food Test Kitchen, and again on the photo shoot). We put our gadgets through a rigorous testing process and carry out our taste tests fairly. Our restaurant and travel recommendations have all been tried by one of us. Ethical and altruistic We care about the food we eat, the people who produce it and the effect this has on the world. In our Test Kitchen, we use humanely reared British meats, free-range chicken and eggs, and sustainable fish whenever possible. We aim to help you avoid food waste, with advice on using leftovers (tune in to Facebook Live to see our #Fridayfood challenge, when we use up Test Kitchen leftovers). Healthy eating Every recipe is analysed by our nutritional therapist, so you can be informed when you choose what to eat. We flag up vegetarian, vegan and gluten-free recipes. Find out more about our health philosophy on page 152.

August 2017

news & trends 6

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UPDATE Fun twists on ice cubes,

boozy ice lollies and Tom Kitchin’s grouse sausage rolls SEASON’S BEST Recipes from Rosie Birkett celebrating British produce

easiest ever 25 34 36 40 41 44

MIDWEEK MEALS Simple summer

suppers, perfect for busy weeknights RIDICULOUSLY EASY Orlando Murrin shares his effort-free recipe for lemon meringue parfait INSTANT EXPERT INDIAN Everything you need to know to achieve the richness of Indian cuisine at home DINNER DASH Three quick meals based around feta cheese EASY BAKING The deliciously simple summer fridge cake you can make without using an oven FAMILY COOKING Fun and easy recipes in rainbow colours that your kids can help to make

california cool 53

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Enjoy the sunny days with summery foods that are quick to cook and great to eat PLUS Victoria Moore explains why you shouldn’t be afraid to put your red wine in the fridge

Families and children Families can need help to create harmonious mealtimes, so we address this by flagging up ‘family’ recipes. We encourage children and teenagers to get cooking with recipes that help them to learn new skills. Find out more at bbcgoodfood.com/recipes/category/family-kids.

opinion

Eating like a local One of the joys of travel – across the UK and overseas – is discovering great food. Our features are written from an insider perspective by on-theground writers and food and travel journalists.

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Independent and respected As you’d expect from a BBC brand, we are impartial and independent, so you can trust our advice and recommendations on everything from restaurants and wine to kitchen gadgets and more. We encourage your input on your local finds, and appreciate your feedback on our recommendations. Food is our passion and pleasure We take food seriously, but we also believe it’s a pleasure to be enjoyed and celebrated, whether cooking for the family, trying an unfamiliar ingredient, choosing wine, buying new products or eating out. We share our food discoveries and adventures with you – and love you to share the same with us daily on Facebook, Twitter, Instagram and Snapchat.

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AL FRESCO BRITAIN The 55 hottest

places to stay cool this summer, from rooftops to waterside idylls TONY NAYLOR Good Food’s restaurant critic enjoys elegant, adventurous food and superlative service at Skosh in York NO MORE KIDS’ MEALS Joanna Blythman calls time on giving in to picky eaters HOW WE EAT NOW Emma Freud enjoys eating at the big screen – it’s like a TV dinner, only better FOOD MILESTONES Adventurer Ben Fogle shares his food memories THE FINAL WORD Our columnist Tony Naylor says it’s time we ditched dessert for something classier

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MAKE OUR COVER RECIPE, p62

this month’s recipe index

Recipe Lulu Grimes Photograph Myles New Food styling Jennifer Joyce Styling Tony Hutchinson

COOK THE COVER & SHARE YOUR PHOTOS

#bbcgoodfood #cookthecover

health 89 90 93 95

HEALTH NEWS Quick tips to help

you feel good this summer HEALTHY INSPIRATION Three recipes from faraway places HEALTHY DIET PLAN Tuna mayo wraps packed with protein JOE WICKS Simple banana bread that’s perfect for sharing

weekend 98 106 112 114

ONE-POT WONDERS Tom

Kerridge’s single-pan suppers STAR INGREDIENT Diana Henry gives a taste of tangy tamarind MASTERCHEF MAKEOVER John Torode’s three-cheese chicken EAT OUT OR EAT IN Neo Bistro’s dishes, adapted to cook at home

test kitchen 125

THE ULTIMATE MACARONI CHEESE

A new take on a classic dish. Plus, make your own ice cream and three of the best barbecues

eat like a local 132 136 138 142

BASEL A food lover’s guide

to the medieval Swiss city INSIDER The best places to eat and drink in Aberdeen SIX QUICK TRIPS Active foodie breaks in delicious destinations FOOD AND FARMING AWARDS

The story of Earth’s Crust bakery

HOW TO CONTACT US Subscription enquiries 03330 162 124 [email protected] Website enquiries 020 8433 1430 [email protected] Reader offer enquiries 020 7150 5358 [email protected]

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Hot dogs get a delicious makeover – clever recipes for lazy summer days

every issue 119 120 144 150 151 152 153

COMING NEXT MONTH

Sneak preview of our next issue DON’T MISS BBC GOOD FOOD SHOWS

reader offers Half-price meat from a master butcher, p96

Save time with this electric pressure cooker, p124

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Book now for great savings CLASSIFIED ADVERTISEMENTS READER FEEDBACK

Share your views and photos READER RECIPE Nanaimo bars – a sweet treat with Canadian roots BBC GOOD FOOD SUBSCRIBER CLUB

Exclusive discounts and rewards RECIPE INDEX Plus how to get the best from our recipes

BBC GOOD FOOD SHOWS For tickets 0844 581 1354 General Show enquiries 020 3405 4286 BEST OF THE BBC TOM KITCHIN Grouse sausage rolls, p11 TOM KERRIDGE One-pot meals, p98 JOHN TORODE MasterChef makeover, p112

PLUS An exclusive seven-course tasting menu at Ormer in London’s Mayfair, p103

AUGUST 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 5

Ice cream makers, fun twists on ice cubes and cool summer buys Recipes MIRIAM NICE

FLAVOUR OF THE MONTH

kay, so ice probably doesn’t sound like a flavour, but the changes it makes to the drinks or dishes it’s added to are certainly as dramatic as any other ingredient. We all know sweet drinks loaded with ice taste much better than those without, but it’s also worth considering how much ice you add. One small cube will melt faster than a whole handful, so if you’re worried about things becoming too watery, then actually adding more ice is the right way to go, if a little counterintuitive. Ice doesn’t have to be just water either: by adding additional ingredients you’ll find that their aroma and tastes are released in stages, giving you a gradual transformation from one set of flavours to another. Two drinks in one! Not only what we’re freezing in the cubes but also the shape of them has become more interesting. Nearly every shape and size you can think of is available now, from giant spheres that melt slowly in a glass of fine whisky to ice cubes shaped like sea creatures, pineapples, your favourite emoji or even the Death Star. Here we’ve gathered some of our favourite ice-cube based ideas to keep you cool this month.

Freeze cold espresso in an ice cube tray. Shake 50ml vodka with 25ml Baileys in a shaker with some ice, then strain into a glass with the frozen coffee. Coffee ice cubes are also great into cold milk or tonic water. 6 bbcgoodfood.com AUGUST 2017

Freeze freshly squeezed orange juice and grapefruit juice in mini ice cube trays, keeping the two flavours separate. Serve scattered over a bowl of thick Greek yogurt with a few pinches of granola and a drizzle of honey.

Photographs EMMA BOYNS | Artwork MIRIAM NICE

Cut melon and/or kiwi fruit into cubes and freeze. Add to water or juices (they’re particularly good in fizzy water), or just eat as a fun frozen snack.

Pop whole pitted green olives in an ice cube tray and fill up with some of the brine from the jar. Freeze until solid. Add to chilled gin or vodka for a speedy dirty martini.

news & trends

Fill an ice cube tray with Aperol, freeze until solid, then drop into glasses of lemonade or soda water.

Try ice cubes in a green gazpacho. Freeze a mix of basil leaves, mint leaves and edible flowers such as pansies and nasturtiums into ice cube trays with water. Blitz a 160g bag of watercress, rocket and spinach salad, 1 tbsp fresh pesto, a handful mint leaves, 1 ripe avocado, 200g Greek yogurt and 2 tbsp sherry vinegar in a food processor until smooth. Garnish with a few basil leaves, a drizzle of olive oil and the ice cubes.

Freeze yogurt into ice cube trays. Blend 4 yogurt ice cubes in a blender with 1/2 avocado, 150g raspberries and 250ml milk until smooth. Serve with a drizzle of honey, if you like.

AUGUST 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 7

BEHIND THE TREND

Boozy ice lollies IN THE BEGINNING Premium ice-lolly brand Pops launched in the UK in 2014. Set up by two old school friends, the brand’s offering of Champagne popsicles became an instant hit on the food scene and in celebrity circles thanks to the retro packaging and considerable boozy hit. THEN Other artisan brands, including Lic, began to offer their own takes on alcoholic ice lollies, which were sold at Fortnum & Mason. Jude’s Ice Cream hopped on board the gin trend by launching a gin & tonic ice cream made with trendy Sipsmiths gin.

MAINSTREAM In spring 2017, Aldi launched its own range of budget-friendly alcoholic ice lollies, complete with popsicle packaging. They’re available in gin & tonic and bellini flavours and measure in at a hefty 4.5% ABV. ENJOY IT YOURSELF Visit bbcgoodfood. com and search ‘boozy ice lollies’ to find our refreshing takes on this super-cool trend. Expect flavours like strawberry & prosecco, Pimm’s and mango, chilli & tequila. Cheers! Natalie Hardwick

Goth ice cream

The coolest new trend sweeping social media this summer is black ice cream. Nicknamed ‘goth ice cream’, its jet-black colour can be achieved using coconut ash or black sesame.

! Glow-in-the-dark food

@LULUGRIMES

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@POPTAILSBYLAPP

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Yes, you read that right – apparently it’s not just for Halloween! Disney recently started selling glow-in-thedark candyfloss at its theme parks around the world, while Black Star Pastry in Australia is now selling ‘glonuts’ (glow-inthe-dark doughnuts).

Coffee in everything but a cup

@THEICEKITCHEN

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@POPSPOPARAZZI

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Summer white wine Whether it’s a barbecue, al fresco lunch or a lazy day in the garden, there’s nothing better than a refreshing glass of white wine – and this lemony Grillo from Sicily ticks all the boxes. The Grillo grape is actually used to make Sicily’s answer to Sherry,

wine in partnership with

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Earlier this year, we saw coffee served in an ice cream cone. Now people are putting it in avocado shells (the ‘avolatte’) and even in hollowed-out carrots. Come on, hasn’t this gone too far?

Gin & tonic with a twist

Marsala, but is now being made into some fabulous wines. The taste is so evocative of Sicily with lemons, orange blossom and an invigorating saline acidity, making it perfect with grilled fish. This bottle is included in our mixed case this month – turn to page 105 for details.

The G&T is being given makeovers left, right and centre. We’ve seen gin & tonics with ginger, cherry tomatoes and even plankton! For more on plankton gin, read our weekly food diary at bbcgoodfood.com/content/ what-were-eating-week

Trends and shopping ANNA LAWSON | Photograph STOCKFOOD/JAN WISCHENEWSKI

!

news & trends

Miiro salted caramel vegan ice cream pops, (3x 70ml pops per pack), £6.49, ocado.com

Sunnylife pineapple cake candles, £5, Paperchase

Palm leaf grid tray, £28, Oliver Bonas

Holy Moly guacamole, £2.79, Waitrose

Chipotle mayonnaise, £3.80, coolchile.co.uk

Keep cool in the heat with our star buys Sweetdram Escubac aperitif (70cl), £28.95, masterofmalt. com

Emore mini pineapple ice cube tray (pack of 2), £7.99, amazon.co.uk

Cleaver & Keg salami cuts, £2.26 per pack, alesbymail. co.uk

Suck UK frozen peas ice tray, £7.32, amazon. co.uk

Books for cooks Kaukasis The Cookbook by Olia Hercules (£25, Mitchell Beazley) Ukranian chef and food writer Olia introduces us to the food and culinary heritage of the Caucasus – the region that bridges Europe and Asia and incorporates Georgia, Armenia, Russia and beyond. European and Middle Eastern ingredients are combined in flavour packed dishes like badrijani nigvzit (stuffed aubergines), kada lobiani (flatbreads stuffed with a kidney bean & caramelised onion paste) and dyushbara (meat dumplings). Each recipe has a story, making this a fascinating read as well as a stunning cookbook. Our must-try recipe Khingal (homemade pasta with spiced lamb, yogurt and herbs)

Cook Fast, Eat Well by Sue Quinn (£14.99, Murdoch Books) Perfect for time-starved cooks, all the snacks, suppers and desserts in this book can be made in 10 minutes or less using just five ingredients. The key is shortcut ingredients and assembling all the equipment before you start – there’s a helpful list of what you need for each recipe. There’s something for everyone from family classics such as chicken curry and sausage pasta to more sophisticated dishes like sea bass in dashi broth. Must-try recipe Spicy halloumi burger

Book reviews FIONA FORMAN

Veggie Desserts & Cakes by Kate Hackworthy (£14.99, Pavilion) Vegetables add vibrant colour, moisture and texture to bakes and desserts and, best of all, their natural sweetness means less refined sugar is needed. This collection goes well beyond carrot cake – kale, beetroot and parsnips are used in cakes, pumpkin in cupcakes and pies, sweet potatoes in waffles and blondies, even romanesco cauliflower makes an appearance in cookies. An inspirational, beautiful book. Must-try recipe Pea & vanilla cake with lemon icing

news & trends

BBC CHEFS

The top Scottish chef’s luxury grouse sausage rolls – the shooting season starts 12 August Grouse sausage rolls

I don’t know anyone who doesn’t enjoy a sausage roll. Adding grouse to the filling is a really easy way to make it even better. These can be assembled up to one day before baking, but if you make them ahead don’t brush the surface with the egg wash until just before they go in the oven. SERVES 8 PREP 50 mins COOK 30 mins MORE EFFORT

200g young grouse breasts, skinned and finely chopped 200g good quality sausage meat vegetable oil, for frying 30g wild mushrooms, such as girolles, ceps or oysters, trimmed and wiped 50g Parma ham, finely chopped 2 tbsp finely chopped shallots 2 tbsp finely chopped cooked chestnuts 1 tbsp peeled and finely diced quince or apple 1 tsp thyme leaves 400g puff pastry plain flour, for dusting and rolling 1 egg yolk, beaten watercress sprigs or 1 green apple, to serve

1 Mix the grouse and sausage meat together in a bowl, then set aside. 2 Heat a well-seasoned sauté pan over a medium-high heat, then add a splash of oil. Once it is hot, add the mushrooms with a pinch of salt and sauté until they are tender and have absorbed the liquid they give off. Tip them out of the pan and finely chop carefully. When they are cool, add to the bowl with the meat. 3 Heat a little more oil in the same pan over a high heat. Add the Parma ham and sauté for 1 min, then add the shallots, chestnuts, quince and thyme, and season. Sauté everything together, then set aside to cool. 4 Once the ingredients have cooled, add them to the meats and mix well by hand. Fry a small amount in a well-seasoned pan to taste, and adjust the seasoning if necessary. 5 Roll out the puff pastry on a lightly floured work surface with a lightly floured rolling pin into a 40 x 30cm rectangle, then transfer it to a floured baking sheet that will fit in your fridge. Lightly flour your hands, then shape the sausage meat mixture into a long, even roll and place it along one long side of the pastry, about 1cm

from the edge. Brush the edges with egg, then gently lift the remaining pastry over the sausage roll and press the edges together, using a floured fork to seal. Chill for at least 20 mins before baking. 6 Meanwhile, heat oven to 220C/200C fan/gas 7 and line a baking sheet with baking parchment. Brush the long roll with the egg wash, then cut into eight equal portions. Transfer to the baking sheet and bake for 30 mins or until golden brown. Serve hot or at room temperature, with watercress or apple, if you like.

&

Tom will be joining Matt Tebbutt on BBC One’s Saturday Kitchen on 2 September and will be appearing at the BBC Good Food Show in Glasgow, 21 and 22 October (bbcgoodfoodshow.com)

Recipe adapted from Tom Kitchin’s Meat & Game, £26, Absolute Press, out 10 August. Text © Tom Kitchin, 2017. Photography © Marc Millar, 2017

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MADE FROM NATURAL INGREDIENTS Six litres of fresh milk, some rapeseed oil and a pinch of salt. That’s what it takes to make a pack of Lurpak Spreadable*. ®

*Quantities in a 500g pack of Lurpak® Spreadable Slightly Salted.

news & trends

SKINTED V MINTED

Ice cream makers SKINTED Andrew James ice cream maker, £24.99, andrewjamesworldwide.com This 1.5-litre ice cream maker is a freeze-first model, meaning you need to freeze the bowl in advance. Once that’s done, just add your ingredients and press a button to make ice cream, sorbet or frozen yogurt in just 20-30 mins. It’s very simple to use and clean, and its compact size is great for those with limited kitchen surfaces.

MINTED Cuisinart gelato and ice cream professional maker, £249.99, John Lewis There’s no need to freeze your bowl with this maker: simply add your ingredients, set the timer and press start. There are two paddles – one for ice cream and one for gelato – but you can also make sorbet and frozen yogurt. It’s very quick, making professional quality ice cream in less than an hour, but its large size means it’s not ideal for small kitchens.

Malaysian cuisine

Shopping ANNA LAWSON

Each month, we explore a new restaurant trend – key ingredients, dishes and drinks to go with them. This month, Adam Abdullah, owner of Malaysian-Chinese restaurant Zheng in London’s Chelsea, explains what you need to know (zhengchelsea.co.uk).

immigrants, and are now often used in Malaysian cuisine for their fragrance. Bubur hitem A traditional Malaysian dessert made of black rice porridge cooked in coconut milk. Sagu Melaka Another classic dessert of tapioca pearls served with palm sugar syrup and evaporated milk. Unrefined palm sugar (gula melaka) is the most popular sweetener in Malaysia, with a rich caramel flavour and hint of coconut.

Nasi Lemak is Malaysia’s national dish, which combines many ingredients essential to Malaysian cuisine. Rice is steamed in coconut milk then served with sambal belacan (a popular relish, made of shrimp paste blended with chillies, shalots and lime juice), egg, cucumber, ikan bilis (dried anchovies – we get them directly from Malaysia but you can buy them here in Asian supermarkets) and peanuts. Nasi Lemak is popular at any time of the day, even for breakfast. At Zheng we serve it with rendang Chicken (slowcooked chicken with a coconut-based spicy sauce). Satay skewers Satay is probably the best-known Malaysian dish, at Zheng we pound the peanuts by hand to make the sweet sauce and serve it with chargrilled marinated skewers of chicken, beef or tofu. Chai pu tofu is a perfect example of the eclectic influences in Malaysian cuisine, we serve freshly made tofu with dried radish, chilli and spring onions. Crispy cereal king prawns, fried prawns in a Malaysiancrispy oat cereal coating topped with curry Chinese food leaves, is another very popular dish. Curry at Zheng leaves were originally brought over by Indian restaurant

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HAVE YOU TRIED...

There are so many ways to enjoy Good Food

Banana ketchup?

Here at Good Food HQ, we’re always trying weird and wonderful new food products, unusual drinks and interesting seasonal ingredients. This month, we shine the spotlight on a unique condiment… What is it? A sweet-savoury ketchup made from bananas, vinegar, chilli, ginger & turmeric. Bananas in a ketchup?! Who’s behind this sorcery? Rubies in the Rubble, a gourmet condiment company that uses fruit & veg that would otherwise be wasted. In this bottle alone, two bananas are saved (a whopping 1.5 million bananas are discarded every day in the UK). That’s all well and good, but how does it taste? Unsurprisingly, it tastes a lot like bananas! It’s sweet and fruity, but balanced by the sharp vinegar and fiery hints of ginger and chilli. So how would I use it? Our experts reckon the sweet Caribbean flavours in this ketchup would be great with spicy jerk chicken or pork, in a bacon sarnie, or as a dip for sweet potato fries. Sounds great. Where can I buy it? From rubiesintherubble.com or ocado.com, £3.50 per bottle.

GF HEALTHY MAGAZINE Light, nutritious recipes to help you feel your best this summer. On sale now, £3.90.

Meatballs with fennel & balsamic beans & courgette noodles

TV EDITOR’S PICKS

What’s cooking across the BBC this month

GOOD FOOD ON YOUR PHONE OR TABLET Download our interactive app at the Apple App Store. HOW-TO VIDEOS Sharpen your skills with our cookery videos. Find over 200 recipes and techniques at bbcgood food.com/feature/videos.

August 2017

THE BIG FAMILY COOKING SHOWDOWN Will the BBC’s new cookery contest be a worthy successor to the much-loved Bake Off? Zoe Ball and Nadiya Hussain are presenting with Rosemary Shrager and Giorgio Locatelli judging the cooking skills of 16 families as they cook both at home and in the studio kitchens. Starts this month on BBC Two.

CELEBRITY MASTERTCHEF Judges John Torode and Gregg Wallace have their taste buds tingled with culinary delights from celebrity wannabe chefs. Famous names entering the kitchen include comedian Jim Moir (aka Vic Reeves), opera star Lesley Garret, World Snooker champion Stephen Hendry and pop star Rachel Stevens. Starts this month on BBC One.

OUT & ABOUT

SATURDAY KITCHEN There’s plenty of summer cooking inspiration this month. Guests include Great British Menu champ Tommy Banks and Saturday Kitchen regulars Paul Ainsworth and Galton Blackiston. Matt Tebbutt hosts 5 and 19 August, Ching He Huang on the 12th and Donal Skehan on the 26th. Saturdays, BBC One, 10am. Kathryn Custance

4-6 AUGUST Foodies Festival, Edinburgh foodiesfestival.com/Edinburgh-food-festival ! 8-12 AUGUST Great British Beer Festival, London gbbf.org.uk ! 12-13 AUGUST Bakewell Baking Festival, Bakewell bakewellbakingfestival.co.uk ! 19-20 AUGUST Food Rocks, Dorset hixrestaurants.co.uk ! 28 AUGUST Newlyn Fish Festival, Cornwall newlynfishfestival.org.uk

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TV photograph BBC

GF SHOWS Discover a BBC Good Food Show near you – find out more on page 120. Readers save 20% on tickets!

news & trends

This month our cocktail aficionado Miriam Nice brings us a recipe for a super simple summertime punch Rosé punch SERVES 6 PREP 5 NO COOK

1 orange 1 lemon 300g punnet strawberries, hulled and halved

1 tbsp honey 750ml rosé wine 250ml dry fino sherry ice

Chop the unpeeled orange and lemon into chunks and put them in a very large bowl. Add all of the other ingredients and plenty of ice. Stir really well to mix all of the flavours together. Ladle into glasses.. GOOD TO KNOW gluten free PER SERVING energy 190 kcals • fat none • saturates none • carbs 12g • sugars 11g • fibre 3g • protein 1g • salt none

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SEASON’S BEST

Make this August your sunniest ever. These fresh, seasonal recipes are bursting with flavour recipes ROSIE BIRKETT photographs DAVID MUNNS

Good Food contributing editor Rosie Birkett is a food writer and stylist. Her cookbook, A Lot on Her Plate, is out now (£25, Hardie Grant). @rosiefoodie

The UK crab season runs from April until November. Fresh, picked crab meat is easily available now, so you can save yourself the bother of starting with a live crab

Crab & chive filo parcels, p18 16 bbcgoodfood.com AUGUST 2017

news & trends

There’s a constantly changing line-up of tomato varieties from season to season, and as most in the UK are grown under glass, they are available all year round

When you buy tomatoes, the leafy tops are a good measure of freshness: they should be perky, rather than wilted. Green tomatoes, which stay green when ripe, have a tangy flavour – they are not underripe

Heritage tomato salad with ricotta, p18 AUGUST 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 17

Crab & chive filo parcels These crispy fried filo parcels are an indulgent treat inspired by the Tunisian dish, brik. Look for Cornish, Devon or Jersey crab for the sweetest, nuttiest flavour. You can buy whole cooked crab and pick the meat yourself, or buy it dressed at the fishmonger, or in packs by Seafood & Eat It from supermarkets. SERVES 4 PREP 40 mins COOK 15 mins MORE EFFORT

For the crab filling 400g crabmeat mix,  3 /4 white, 1/4 brown 1 spring onion, finely chopped 1 bunch of chives, finely chopped 2 tbsp chopped tarragon 4 tbsp chopped parsley 1 tbsp chopped dill 1 red chilli, finely chopped pinch of white pepper  1 lemon, zested and juiced (2 tbsp) For the parcels 4 sheets of filo pastry

4 egg yolks 2 tbsp olive oil 5g unsalted butter pinch of fennel seeds For the tomato salsa 1 tsp cumin seeds 3 ripe tomatoes, finely chopped 2 tbsp capers, chopped 1 /2 red onion, finely chopped 2 tsp white wine vinegar 2 tsp rose harissa 1 tbsp olive oil

1 In a bowl, combine the crabmeat with the other filling ingredients and gently stir to combine. Taste and add more lemon juice or seasoning as necessary. 2 Place one sheet of filo on the work surface. Split it in half and lie one half on top of the other. Add a quarter of the crab mixture to the middle of the pastry, and shape it into a rectangle just a bit bigger than a debit card. Make a well in the middle of the mixture using your thumb or the back of a spoon, and carefully put the egg yolk in it. Moisten the edges of the filo and fold them up and in to wrap the crab in a neat parcel. Make sure the edges are overlapping and there are no gaps. Turn the parcel over so the seams are facing down and repeat with the rest of the pastry and crab mixture. 3 To make the salsa, toast the cumin seeds in a dry frying pan until aromatic and starting to crackle, taking care not to let them burn. Remove from the heat. Combine all the rest of the salsa ingredients in a bowl and add the cumin seeds. Stir, taste for seasoning and adjust as required. 4 To cook the parcels, heat the olive oil and the butter in a frying pan until sizzling. Add the fennel seeds to flavour the oil, then the parcels, one or two at a time, cooking for a couple of mins on each side, until crispy and golden. Remove with a spatula and drain on kitchen paper. Repeat with the other parcels. Drain any of the leftover oil/butter/fennel mix used for frying into the salsa, then serve the parcels with the salsa on the side. GOOD TO KNOW calcium • folate • vit c • iron • 1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 415 kcals • fat 20g • saturates 4g • carbs 29g • sugars 4g • fibre 4g • protein 28g • salt 1.6g

Heritage tomato salad with ricotta, broad beans & salsa verde This is an update of a classic tricolore salad, using light ricotta, a punchy salsa verde and the best seasonal tomatoes. SERVES 4 PREP 25 mins NO COOK EASY V

12 heirloom tomatoes of different shapes and sizes, sliced and cut in different ways (about 650g in total) 1 /2 red onion, finely sliced 100g podded broad beans 50g ricotta For the salsa verde 1 pack flat-leaf parsley, leaves picked 3 tarragon sprigs, leaves picked

1 pack basil, leaves only 1 pack chervil, leaves only 1 clove garlic, finely chopped 1 tsp Dijon mustard 2 tbsp small capers, drained 150ml extra virgin olive oil 1-2 tsp good quality sherry vinegar

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1 Toss the sliced tomatoes and onion in a bowl with the salt and set aside. 2 Finely chop the herbs for the salsa verde. Pound the garlic, Dijon mustard and capers using a pestle and mortar and add to the herbs. Add seasoning and the oil. Add the vinegar, little by little, tasting as you go, until the sauce has the right amount of acidity – it needs to be punchy without losing the grassy, fresh flavour of the herbs. 3 Bring a pan of water to the boil and plunge the broad beans in for a couple of mins, then drain, cool in cold water and peel away the shells. 4 Divide the tomatoes and onions between plates or spread out on a platter. Dot the ricotta around and spoon over the salsa verde. Scatter with broad beans and serve. GOOD TO KNOW 2 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING 418 kcals • fat 40g • saturates 6g • carbs 8g • sugars 6g • fibre 5g • protein 5g • salt 1.1g

news & trends

Red mullet with saffron baked orzo & broad beans, p20

At their best now Fruit & veg

Apricots Aubergines Beetroot Blueberries Broad beans Carrots Cherries Courgettes Cucumbers Currants

Fennel French beans Globe artichokes Gooseberries Kohlrabi Lettuce New potatoes Onions Radishes Raspberries Rhubarb (outdoor)

Runner beans Samphire Strawberries Swiss chard Tomatoes

Fish & seafood

Squid Trout (river & sea) Wild sea bass

Meat

Salt marsh lamb

Cornish sardines Crab Lemon sole Pollock

AUGUST 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 19

Red mullet with saffron baked orzo & broad beans 2 whole red mullet, scaled and cleaned pinch saffron  2 tbsp olive oil pinch of fennel seeds 1 red onion, finely sliced  handful of flat-leaf parsley, stalks and leaves finely chopped  1 /2 lemon, zested  1 /2 fennel bulb, finely sliced pinch of dried red chilli flakes 2 tbsp pine nuts  2 tbsp golden sultanas

150g orzo 100ml fino sherry 180g cherry tomatoes, halved 100g broad beans, blanched and peeled olive oil 2 thyme sprigs 2 slices of lemon, halved

Once sweetcorn is picked, the sugars start to convert to starch, making it taste less sweet. Keep it cold and eat it as soon as you can

1 Heat oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4 and take the mullet out of the fridge to come up to room temperature. Boil a kettle and put the saffron in a small bowl. Pour over 1 tbsp boiling water and stir to release the colour and flavour. 2 Heat the olive oil in a non-stick frying pan over a medium-high heat. Add the fennel seeds, red onion, parsley stalks, lemon zest and fennel. Season, add the chilli and cook, stirring, for about 5 mins or until the fennel is taking on some colour. Add the pine nuts, sultanas and orzo and cook for a few more mins, then deglaze with the sherry and the saffron and its liquid. Cook for a couple of mins longer until the liquid has evaporated, then stir through the parsley leaves, tomatoes and beans and transfer to a lightly oiled roasting tin. Cover with 250ml boiling water and cook in the oven for 15 mins.  3 Preheat the grill. Season the fish inside and out and put the thyme and lemon inside. Rub with olive oil, place on a piece of baking parchment, then grill for about 3-4 mins on each side, depending on their size. Remove and rest. Once the pasta is ready, divide it between plates and top with the fish. GOOD TO KNOW folate • fibre • vit c • 3 of 5-a-day PER SERVING (4) 713 kcals • fat 30g • saturates 3g • carbs 59g • sugars 33g • fibre 12g • protein 34g • salt 0.4g

BBQ corn cobs with Comté & herb butter SERVES 2 PREP 10 mins COOK 10 mins EASY V

50g unsalted butter 2 tbsp chopped tarragon, parsley and basil 50g Comté, finely grated

splash of olive oil pinch dried red chilli flakes 1 tbsp rapeseed oil 2 corn cobs

1 To make the butter, combine all of the ingredients (except the corn and rapeseed oil) with 1/2 tsp sea salt in a food processor and blitz to a paste. Shape into a little log, wrap in baking parchment and keep in the fridge until needed. 2 Light your barbecue. When you have glowing grey-white coals, toss the corn with the rapeseed oil and salt and pepper to coat it and then grill it, turning as you go, until golden and starting to char. Immediately slather the butter onto the corn and eat. GOOD TO KNOW calcium • folate • fibre • 1 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING 528 kcals • fat 38g • saturates 19g • carbs 23g • sugars 6g • fibre 16g • protein 13g • salt 1.5g

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Food stylist ROSIE BIRKETT | Stylist VICTORIA ALLEN

SERVES 2-4 PREP 25 mins COOK 40 mins EASY

news & trends

Gazpacho with runner bean tempura & pickled coriander seeds I love the contrast of flavours, textures and temperatures in this dish. Serves six as a starter. SERVES 4-6 PREP 30 mins, plus 2hrs chilling COOK 10 mins MORE EFFORT V

For the pickled coriander seeds 25ml white wine vinegar 1 tsp sherry vinegar 1 tbsp caster sugar 2 tsp coriander seeds For the gazpacho 1kg tomatoes  200g cucumber, peeled  and deseeded 2 tsp capers  2 garlic cloves 1 red chilli, deseeded 2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil 1-2 tbsp sherry vinegar For the runner bean tempura 150ml vegetable oil 100g runner beans, stringed, cut in half, then sliced lengthways (discarding tough beans from inside) 90g plain flour 1 /2 tsp cumin seeds 1 /2 egg, beaten 200ml ice-cold sparkling water

1 To make the pickled coriander seeds, put the vinegars in a small pan with the sugar and 25ml water. Bring to the boil, drop in the coriander seeds, turn off the heat and leave to infuse. 2 To peel the tomatoes, lightly score a cross in the top of each one, place in a large bowl and cover with boiling water for 1 min. Drain and peel. Cut each one into quarters and use a knife to scrape away the seeds. Don’t discard what you remove – sieve out the seeds and use the juice in the next step. 3 Blitz the tomatoes, cucumber, capers, garlic, chilli and 2 tsp sea salt in a food processor. Pour into a bowl and chill for a couple of hours for the flavours to meld, then add the olive oil and stir. Add 1 tbsp of the sherry vinegar and taste. If it needs more to bring out the flavours, then add another tbsp. Divide between bowls and chill the soup while you make the runner bean tempura. 4 Pour the vegetable oil into a high-sided saucepan and set over a medium heat to get up to temperature (about 180C) while you make the batter. 5 To make the batter, put the flour, a pinch of salt and the cumin seeds in a bowl and stir. Add the beaten egg, then pour in the water. Gently stir the mixture, taking care not to over-mix it – a few lumps help give tempura its texture. Test the temperature of the oil by dropping in a little bit of batter. It should bubble and float to the top. If it browns immediately, reduce the heat. 6 Mix the runner beans into the batter and then fry in batches, removing with a slotted spoon once they’re crisp, golden and just starting to brown. Drain on kitchen paper and season. Top each bowl of soup with some crispy runner beans, and spoon over a little of the drained, pickled coriander seeds. GOOD TO KNOW vit c • 2 of 5-a-day • healthy PER SERVING (6) 240 kcals • fat 15g • saturates 1g • carbs 21g • sugars 9g • fibre 3g • protein 4g • salt 0.2 g

AUGUST 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 21

news & trends

The flavour of a peach develops while it’s still on the tree, though it will get softer and juicier at home. Avoid fruits that look green, as they will have been picked too early

Fino & butter poached peaches with ginger pecan crunch SERVES 4 PREP 20 mins COOK 40 mins EASY

110g plain flour 2 tsp ground ginger 50g unsalted butter, diced and chilled 50g muscovado sugar 50g pecan nuts, roughly chopped 1 tbsp pumpkin seeds, roughly chopped 4 ripe peaches 1 vanilla pod 200ml fino sherry 60g unsalted butter 2 tbsp maple syrup 100g thick Greek yogurt, to serve

1 Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 4. Line a baking sheet with baking parchment. To make the crunch, put the flour in a bowl with the ginger and a pinch of salt and rub in the butter until you have a breadcrumb consistency. Mix in the sugar, pecans and pumpkin seeds. Throw in a splash of water and clump some of the mixture together using your fingers (this will make lovely crispy chunks). Tip the mix onto the baking sheet and bake for 15-20 mins until golden and crunchy. Remove from the oven, allow to cool slightly, then break it up. You can do this stage a few hours ahead of time. 2 Slice the peaches in half and remove (but keep) the stones. Slice open the vanilla pod and put the seeds in a pan with the sherry, butter, maple syrup and peach stones (they add a lovely almond note), along with the vanilla pods. Gently heat up, stirring, until the butter has melted and the mixture is gently simmering. Add the peach halves and poach for 20-30 mins until tender. Serve the peaches in little bowls with a splash of the poaching liquor, a dollop of natural yogurt and some of the crunch on top. GOOD TO KNOW 1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 582 kcals • fat 34g • saturates 15g • carbs 50g • sugars 27g • fibre 4g • protein 6g • salt 0.1g

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easiest-ever

midweek

meals

Simple, imaginative meals, all delicious and ready in a flash

Roasted feta with chargrilled veg p40

AUGUST 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 25

recipe for two £3.08 per serving

SIMPLE SUMMER SUPPERS

Quick and tasty recipes, perfect for busy weeknights recipes MIRIAM NICE and LULU GRIMES photographs STUART OVENDEN

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Quick sushi bowl SERVES 2 PREP 15 mins COOK 10 mins plus standing EASY

150g sushi rice pinch sugar 1 tbsp rice vinegar 2 cooked salmon fillets (we used teriyaki marinated)

1 large carrot, cut into ribbons 4 tbsp pickled red cabbage handful radishes, sliced thumb-sized piece ginger, finely sliced ¼ cucumber, halved longways and sliced 1 tbsp soy sauce 1 tsp sesame seeds (optional)

1 Cook the sushi rice following pack instructions. When cooked, sprinkle over the sugar and vinegar, cover and set aside for 5 mins. 2 Divide the rice between two bowls and arrange the other ingredients on top, then drizzle with the soy sauce and sesame seeds, if using. GOOD TO KNOW low cal • omega-3 • 2 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 498 kcals • fat 11g • saturates 2g • carbs 70g • sugars 13g • fibre 4g • protein 27g • salt 2.3g

easiest ever

Green masala eggs SERVES 4 PREP 10 mins COOK 30 mins EASY V

6 eggs 350g brown basmati rice 2 tbsp rapeseed oil 1 onion, finely sliced 2cm piece ginger, grated 1 tsp turmeric 1 tsp chilli powder 1 tsp ground coriander 400ml can coconut milk 2 green chillies, finely sliced 1 tsp mango chutney small pack coriander

1 Lower the eggs into a pan of boiling water and cook for 6 mins, then lift them out and cool under cold running water. Cook the rice following pack instructions. 2 Heat a little of the oil in a deep frying pan and cook the onions until soft. Add the ginger and cook for 1 min, then stir in the turmeric, chilli powder and coriander and cook for 1-2 mins or until fragrant. Add the coconut milk, most of the chillies and the mango chutney, bring to a simmer and cook for 5 mins. 3 Meanwhile, heat the rest of the oil in a frying pan or wok. Peel the eggs and stir them around in the hot oil until they brown and start to bubble and crisp all over. Lift them carefully out of the pan and halve them. 4 Roughly chop the coriander and stir most of it into the masala with some salt. Add the eggs, scatter the rest of the chilli and coriander over the top and serve with the rice.

crowd-pleaser £1.05 per serving

PER SERVING 673 kcals • fat 34g • saturates 18g • carbs 68g • sugars 5g • fibre 5g • protein 22g • salt 0.5g

AUGUST 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 27

Okra with tomato sauce & couscous

vegetarian

SERVES 4 PREP 15 mins COOK 55 mins EASY V

£1.55 per serving

2 tbsp olive oil, plus extra to serve 2 red onions, finely chopped 250g okra, each sliced into 4 pieces

2 garlic cloves, crushed 1 tsp ground allspice 500g passata 300g couscous 1 lemon, juiced 200g feta or natural yogurt small pack parsley, chopped

1 Heat the oil in a large saucepan, add the onion and cook over a medium-high heat for 10 mins, adding a splash of water if the onions stick. Add the okra, garlic and allspice, toss to coat the okra in spices, then add the passata. Pour in 100ml of water, cover and simmer for 40 mins or until the okra is tender. 2 Pour 350ml boiling water over the couscous, cover and leave to stand for 10 mins, then season and stir with a fork to break up any clumps. 3 Stir the lemon juice into the okra, then serve on top of the couscous with feta and parsley scattered over, or yogurt spooned on top. GOOD TO KNOW calcium • folate • fibre • vit c • 2 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 550 kcals • fat 18g • saturates 8g • carbs 70g • sugars 13g • fibre 9g • protein 22g • salt 1.0g

Tofu with chilli & greens SERVES 2 PREP 15 mins COOK 10 mins EASY V

1 large or 2 small heads (about 300g) of pak choy or gai lan, roughly chopped 300g block of silken tofu 1 tbsp Chinese rice wine 1 tbsp soy sauce, plus extra to serve

pinch soft brown sugar 1 tbsp oil 2 spring onions, julienned or finely sliced 2cm piece of ginger, julienned or finely sliced large pinch chilli flakes sesame oil cooked wholegrain rice, to serve

1 Put the greens in the base of a shallow bowl that will fit into a large steamer. (Alternatively, use a lidded wok: fill the base of the wok with water and put a heatproof trivet on the bottom to stand the bowl on so it’s above the water line). Place the tofu on top of the greens and thickly slice. Mix the rice wine, soy sauce and sugar with 2 tbsp water and pour over the tofu. Cover and steam for 5 mins or until the tofu is hot. 2 Heat the oil in a small pan, add the spring onion and ginger, sizzle for a min, then add the chilli flakes and a splash of sesame oil. When hot, pour carefully over the tofu. Serve with rice. GOOD TO KNOW vegan • folate • 1 of 5-a-day • good for you PER SERVING 194 kcals • fat 11g • saturates 1g • carbs 9g • sugars 6g • fibre 4g • protein 10g • salt 1.0g

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vegan

£1.70 per serving

easiest ever

Prawn & beansprout omelette baguette SERVES 2 PREP 15 mins COOK 5 mins EASY

4 eggs 1 tsp fish sauce 1 tbsp oil 2 spring onions, finely sliced 12 large cooked, peeled prawns handful beansprouts, blanched 1 small red chilli, finely sliced small pack coriander, leaves picked 2 carrots, cut into ribbons with a vegetable peeler 1 baguette, cut in half and each half split down the middle (or 2 small baguettes) For the chilli & lime dressing 1 lime, juiced 1 garlic clove, crushed 2 tsp fish sauce 2 tsp soft brown sugar

1 Whisk the eggs with the fish sauce and a splash of water. Mix all the ingredients for the dressing in a bowl. 2 Heat the oil in a frying pan, add the spring onions and fry briefly, then add the prawns and toss together. Scrape them to one side of the pan and pour in the egg mixture, then shake the pan so it runs into all the gaps. Fry until the base starts to brown, then scatter over the beansprouts, chilli and most of the coriander. Spoon over the dressing. Flip the thin side of the omelette over the side with all the filling and slide it onto a plate, then cut into quarters and divide between the baguette pieces. Finally, add the carrot and the remaining coriander leaves. GOOD TO KNOW folate • fibre • 2 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 617 kcals • fat 18g • saturates 4g • carbs 77g • sugars 18g • fibre 9g • protein 32g • salt 4.0g

weeknight treat £1.63 per serving

AUGUST 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 29

easiest ever

Jerk chicken & pineapple traybake SERVES 4 PREP 20 mins COOK 1 hr EASY

6 chicken thighs, skin on and bone in 90g jerk paste 3 limes, 1 zested and juiced, 2 cut into wedges, to serve 1 pineapple, peeled, cored and chopped into chunks 2 sweet potatoes, peeled and chopped into chunks 1 red pepper, sliced 300g wholegrain rice 400g can black beans 1 tbsp coconut oil few thyme sprigs, leaves picked 3 Little Gem lettuces, sliced

family favourite £2.51 per serving

according to pack instructions, then stir in the beans, coconut oil, thyme leaves and seasoning. Cook for 2-3 mins to warm the beans through and melt the coconut oil. Serve 3 pieces of chicken per person with the vegetables, and the lettuce and rice on the side. GOOD TO KNOW folate • fibre • 2 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 617 kcals • fat 18g • saturates 4g • carbs 77g • sugars 18g • fibre 9g • protein 32g • salt 4.0g

30 bbcgoodfood.com AUGUST 2017

Food stylist SOPHIE GODWIN | Stylist JENNY IGGLEDEN

1 Heat oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4. Cut the thighs in half lengthways down one side of the bone. Put them in a large roasting tin. Mix the jerk paste with the lime zest and juice and pour over the chicken. Tuck the pineapple pieces, sweet potatoes and peppers in and around the chicken. Season, cover with foil and roast for 30 mins. 2 Increase the oven temperature to 220C/200C fan/gas 7, remove the foil, baste the chicken and stir the veg in the cooking juices. Return to the oven for 20-25 mins. 3 Meanwhile, cook the rice

Just like Grana Padano cheese, true taste and real origins simply cannot be imitated. That is why the European Union created the Protected Designation of Origin scheme. PDO makes regional specialities with centuries of tradition easier to recognise. So next ���� ��� ���� �� ����� ��� ������������ ϔ������ �� ����� ������ delicacies, look for the PDO logo. Proud carriers of the PDO logo.

Follow our tradition at www.granapadano.it

CAMPAIGN FINANCED WITH AID FROM THE EUROPEAN UNION AND ITALY.

Is this what your summer’s missing? Our delicious new cordial – a sumptuously juicy and tart pressing of the finest plump summer raspberries.

easiest ever

Charred broccoli & cheat’s romesco toast SERVES 4 PREP 15 mins COOK 45 mins EASY V

2 heads of broccoli, broken into florets and stalks chopped 4 tbsp olive oil For the romesco toast 50g whole blanched almonds 100g cooked red peppers from a jar, drained 5 thick slices sourdough bread 1 /2 tbsp olive oil 1 tsp sherry vinegar 1 red chilli, deseeded ¼ tsp smoked paprika 1 garlic clove, crushed

1 Heat oven to 200C/180C fan/ gas 6. Put the broccoli in a large roasting tin, drizzle with the oil and season well. Roast for 35-40 mins or until tender and starting to char at the edges. 2 Meanwhile, toast the almonds in a dry pan until golden. Put the almonds, peppers, 1 piece of the bread, roughly torn (about 20g – an end piece is ideal), 1/ 2 tbsp olive oil, the vinegar, chilli, paprika, garlic and some seasoning in a food processor (or use a stick blender). Blend until smooth, then transfer to a bowl and chill in the fridge until needed. 3 Toast the remaining pieces of bread, spread with the romesco and pile the roasted broccoli on top. GOOD TO KNOW folate • fibre • vit c • iron • 1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 409 kcals • fat 21g • saturates 3g • carbs 31g • sugars 6g • fibre 10g • protein 18g • salt 1.0g

storecupboard supper 54p per serving

It’s just waiting to be explored. A dash takes a gorgeous, cool glass of prosecco and lifts it to an altogether more marvellous experience.

bottlegreen, for the curious

new series

RIDICULOUSLY EASY Each month Good Food legend Orlando Murrin shares a doddle of a recipe that beautifully over-delivers

recipe ORLANDO MURRIN photographs MYLES NEW

his is an elegant, understated summer dessert that takes minutes to assemble – no cooking – and will seriously impress friends and family. Like many of the best summer desserts, it is light on the palate but rich and luscious in texture: its bright, zingy flavour is exactly how I like to end an alfresco lunch or barbecue. The key points of this recipe are that it needs to be made ahead (at least four hours) so it has time to freeze; and it needs to be removed from the freezer and turned out onto a plate a short while before serving, so that the

texture is soft and melty by the time you slice and serve it. For me, the ideal accompaniment is a handful of fresh summer fruit. Strawberries are ideal – I think it is worth the trouble of halving them, slicing out the tough little cores and tossing the berries in a sprinkle of sugar and a splash of liquor (gin does nicely). This can be done ahead, or while you are waiting for the parfait to soften. Raspberries need no adornment. In autumn, look out for cape gooseberries (physalis), which give the dessert a designer look.

Lemon meringue parfait This dessert is ideal for entertaining and the recipe can easily be multiplied for larger numbers. The addition of gin or vodka prevents the cream from freezing solid, and adds just a subtle extra flavour dimension SERVES 6 PREP 20 mins plus at least 4 hrs NO COOK EASY G

1 lemon, zested 2-3 tbsp gin or vodka 5 tbsp of lemon curd, plus extra to drizzle

1 Line a 20cm round tin, preferably loose-based, with cling film, using more than one piece if necessary to cover the bottom and up the sides, and pop in the freezer. 2 Roughly break up the meringues with your fingers into a bowl, aiming for nothing bigger than a golf ball. 3 Put the cream and sugar in a large bowl and whisk until starting to stiffen. Stop when it looks floppy, like Greek yogurt. 4 Grate over the lemon zest and sprinkle over the gin and meringue rubble. Use a large spoon or spatula to fold the cream up, over and round, until just combined. 5 Stir the lemon curd so it's gloopy rather than firm; if it remains too thick, dilute with a tsp of gin. Dollop over the surface of the cream. Take your spoon and fold it in, turning the bowl as you do so – no more than a dozen folds, so the curd forms streaks. Spoon gently into the tin and freeze for at least four hours. Once firm, cover with cling film. 6 About 10-20 mins before serving, remove the parfait from the freezer, invert onto a plate, peel away the cling film, and return right-side-up, at room temperature. Serve in wedges with lemon curd drizzled over and the fruit on the side. GOOD TO KNOW gluten free PER SERVING 488 kcals • fat 41g • saturates 25g • carbs 24g • sugars 24g • fibre 0.1g • protein 2g • salt 0.1g

34 bbcgoodfood.com AUGUST 2017

customise it... z Make an orange version in the same way, using orange zest, and orange curd or marmalade. z A sophisticated version for ginger fans: use kirsch instead of the vodka, and 3 knobs of finely chopped stem ginger in syrup instead of the curd. Orlando Murrin, food writer and former Good Food editor, has run gastro-hotels in France and Somerset. @OrlandoMurrin

Food styling SOPHIE GODWIN | Styling FAYE WEARS

75g meringue nests (5 nests) 450ml double cream, chilled 1 tbsp caster sugar

easiest ever

Where did this recipe come from?

Many years ago, I remember a short-lived craze for making lemon curd ice cream. It was the time when crème fraîche started arriving in the shops, and you simply folded it together with sugar and lemon curd and froze it. I also recall a frozen dessert invented for a (now-forgotten) royal wedding, based on meringues and cream. This is a fine balance between the two – a truly elegant confection that delivers far more than you’d expect from the simple ingredients or the effort involved.

AUGUST 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 35

INSTANT EXPERT

INDIAN Bring friends and family together for a fragrant, spicy feast. Packed with flavour, these dishes are easy enough to make at home recipes ELENA SILCOCK photographs STUART OVENDEN

Chana masala

Coriander & mint raita

SERVES 6-8 PREP 15 mins COOK 35 mins G V EASY

SERVES 6-8 PREP 5 mins COOK 2 mins EASY V

800g canned chickpeas or 720g jar giant chickpeas 3 onions, quartered 3 garlic cloves 5cm piece of ginger 2-3 green chillies, roughly chopped (see p39) 11/2 tbsp ghee 1 /2 tsp each ground coriander, ground cumin, chilli powder (Kashmiri if possible)

1 tsp each cumin seeds and mustard seeds 1 small pack each mint and coriander

1 tsp each turmeric and garam masala 11/2 tsp amchoor powder (see p39, optional) 3 medium tomatoes (around 300g), roughly chopped, or 400g can chopped tomatoes 1 lemon, juiced 1 /2 small pack coriander leaves. to serve

1 Drain the chickpeas, add to a large pan with 400ml of water and season. Bring to the boil, then turn off the heat and set aside to allow the chickpea flavour to infuse the water. 2 Blitz the onions with the garlic, ginger and green chillies. Melt the ghee in a large saucepan, then add the onion mix with a pinch of salt and cook for 8-10 mins, until softened. 3 Stir in the spices, and cook for 3 more mins, adding a splash of the chickpea water to stop them sticking to bottom of the pan. Add the tomatoes and another splash of water and cook for 5 mins, squishing the tomatoes with a spoon as they soften. Tip in the chickpeas, along with their cooking water. Cook for 10 mins. Season well, add the lemon juice, and a splash of water if you like a looser curry. Scatter with the coriander , to serve. GOOD TO KNOW low fat • 2 of 5-a-day • good for you • gluten free PER SERVING (8) 140 kcals • fat 5g • saturates 2g • carbs 15g • sugars 5g • fibre 5g • protein 6g • salt 0.1g

step it up

Add 6-8 fresh or dried curry leaves at the same time as the chilli for an extra flavour punch

36 bbcgoodfood.com AUGUST 2017

1 green chilli, ¾ roughly chopped, the remainder sliced, to serve 200g Greek yogurt 1 lime, juiced

1 Toast the spices in a dry pan until fragrant, then tip into a mortar and grind to a powder with a pestle. Tip into a food processor with all the remaining ingredients except the lime juice. Blitz, adding a splash of water to loosen, then season and add the lime juice to taste. Leave in the fridge while you prepare the rest of the dishes. Scatter with the remaining chilli, to serve. GOOD TO KNOW gluten free PER SERVING (6) 51 kcals • fat 4g • saturates 2g • carbs 2g • sugars 1g • fibre 0g • protein 3g • salt 0.1g

tip

Deseed and remove the membrane from your chilli if you don’t want it hot, as much of the heat comes from these parts

easiest ever

Sali murghi, p38

Mango lassi, p38

Chana masala, p36

Saag paneer, p38

Coriander & mint raita, p36 AUGUST 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 37

Sali murghi

Saag paneer

Jaggery is unrefined cane sugar and has a distinctive flavour that adds a caramel richness to Indian dishes. If you can’t get hold of any, use soft brown sugar instead.

Use either fresh, mature spinach or frozen spinach for this dish. The young baby leaves don’t pack the flavour-punch needed to make this dish really delicious.

SERVES 6-8 PREP 20mins COOK 55 mins EASY G

SERVES 6 PREP 10 mins COOK 20 mins EASY V

21/2 tbsp ghee or vegetable oil 8 chicken thighs 1 cinnamon stick 5 green cardamom pods, bashed, seeds removed 1 tsp cumin seeds 2 onions, finely chopped 2 green chillies, roughly chopped 3 garlic cloves, roughly chopped 5cm piece ginger, roughly chopped 1 tsp each ground coriander, garam marsala, Kashmiri chilli powder 1 /2 tsp turmeric

2 tbsp ghee 1 tsp turmeric 1 tsp Kashmiri chilli powder 450g paneer, cut into 3cm cubes 500g spinach, mature fresh or frozen

1 Melt 1 tbsp of the ghee in the pan and add the chicken, skin-side side down. Once the skin is golden and crisp (around 5 mins), remove from the pan and set aside (you may need to do this in batches). Melt the remaining ghee in the frying pan, add the cinnamon, cardamom and cumin seeds, and fry until fragrant, around 5 mins. Stir in the onions in along with a big pinch of salt and fry for 5 mins until browning in places. 2 Blitz the the green chilli with the garlic and ginger, add to the pan and cook for 2 more mins, then stir in the spices and cook for a few mins more, splashing in a little water to prevent the spices from sticking. Tip in the chopped tomatoes. 3 Return the chicken to the pan, coating it with the curry base, then splash in the white wine vinegar followed by the jaggery. Add 100ml water, then cover and simmer for 30 mins. Remove the lid and stir in the apricots and coriander, then cook for 10-15 mins longer, until the gravy reduces. 4 Meanwhile, make the sali. Pat the potato matchsticks dry with kitchen paper. Pour vegetable oil into a small, deep saucepan until it’s a few cm deep, and heat over a medium-high heat. Add a handful of the potato matchsticks at a time and fry for around a minute, until golden and crisp. Remove with a slotted spoon, drain on kitchen paper and season generously. Serve the curry with the sali piled on top. GOOD TO KNOW 2 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING (6) 385 kcals • fat 23g • saturates 8g • carbs 18g • sugars 16g • fibre 5g • protein 24g • salt 0.3g

tip

Using a julienne peeler to make the potato matchsticks saves a lot of time and effort

1 large onion, finely chopped 3 garlic cloves thumb-sized piece of ginger 1 green chilli, roughly chopped, (include seeds for extra spice) 1 tsp garam masala 1 /2 lemon, juiced, to serve

1 Melt the ghee, whisk in with the turmeric and chilli powder, then add the cubed paneer and toss well. Set aside. If using frozen spinach, microwave for 3-5 mins, then place in a sieve and squeeze out most of the water. If using fresh spinach, place in a colander, pour over boiling water, drain and cool, then put in a tea towel and squeeze out most of the water. Roughly chop. 2 Blitz the onion with the garlic, ginger and green chilli. Cook the paneer in a large non-stick frying pan over medium heat for around 8 mins, tossing the pan so they become golden all over. Remove and set aside on a plate, leaving spices behind in the pan. Tip the onion mix into the pan, add a pinch of salt and turn the heat down. Fry until caramel coloured, around 10 mins, adding a splash of water if it looks a little dry. Add the garam masala, stir to coat the onion mix, fry for 2 mins. 3 Add the spinach and cook for a further 2-3 mins, adding 100ml water to release all the flavours from the bottom of the pan. Add the paneer and cook for 2-3 mins to heat through. Spoon into bowls and squeeze over a little lemon juice, to serve. GOOD TO KNOW calcium • folate • gluten free PER SERVING 326 kcals • fat 24g • saturates 15g • carbs 4g • sugars 3g • fibre 2g • protein 22g • salt 0.2g

Mango Lassi Honey mangoes (also known as champagne or Ataulfo) are ideal for this. They’re sweeter, more flavoursome and less fibrous than other varieties. SERVES 6 PREP 10 mins NO COOK EASY V

3-4 ripe mangoes (honey mangoes if possible) 500g natural yogurt

2 tsp ground cardamom 1 tbsp honey 2 limes, juiced, to taste

1 Put all the ingredients apart from the lime juice in a food processor and blitz. Add the lime juice along with a pinch of salt, to taste, then pour into glasses with some ice cubes and serve. GOOD TO KNOW low cal • vit c • 1 of 5-a-day • good for you • gluten free PER SERVING 131 kcals • fat 3g • saturates 2g • carbs 20g • sugars 20g • fibre 1g • protein 5g • salt 0.2g

step it up

Use frozen mango pieces instead of the ice

38 bbcgoodfood.com AUGUST 2017

Food stylist SOPHIE GODWIN | Stylist JENNY IGGLEDEN

3 medium tomatoes, around 300g, finely chopped (or blitzed) 2 tbsp white wine vinegar 2 tsp jaggery (or soft brown sugar) 150g dried apricots (use the soft, ready-to-eat type) 1 /2 small pack coriander, chopped Sali (optional) 1 large potato, peeled and sliced into matchsticks (see tip) vegtable oil, for shallow frying

easiest ever

KNOW YOUR SPICES >>

Kashmiri chilli powder

Milder than other, more commonly used, chilli powders, this traditional Indian spice adds a smoky heat to dishes.

Amchoor powder

Made from dried and powdered green mango, it adds a lick of acidity to a curry. Use an extra squeeze of lemon juice if you can’t get hold of any.

Garam masala

This spice blend varies across regions, but it’s usually a blend of cloves, peppercorns, cinnamon, cardamom, bay leaf, mace and cumin.

COOK LIKE A LOCAL >> Fresh curry leaves

These are delicious when fried and served with peanuts, or can be cooked in curries to add an extra layer of flavour. Double the quantities if using dried leaves.

Indian green chillies

Slender chillies, not to be mistaken for the smaller Thai birdseye chilli. Use cautiously in curries, as they add a kick of heat not often found in other green chillies in UK supermarkets.

BEST BUYS >>

Spice Taylor mango chutney

This mango chutney has the perfect balance of sweet and sour. It cuts through the intense flavours of a curry and also helps cool the spices on the palate.

Lloyd Grossman peshwari naan

A great way to emulate the experience of being at your local curry house, this is the perfect naan to mop up any curry juices left on your plate at the end of the meal.

Ruby madras plain poppadums The fun of these is in the making. Drop into hot oil and create poppadums with that ‘just cooked’ appeal.

Top tips for cooking Indian dishes

Ghee

This is a form of clarified butter – the pure butterfat that remains when the milk solids are removed. It’s used commonly in India due to its longer shelf life.

1 Use frozen chopped onions or blitz peeled onions to save time. 2 Pulse tomatoes in a food processor if you have a lot to chop. 3 No food processor? No problem. Simply replace the garlic and ginger in these recipes with 1 tbsp each of garlic and ginger paste. 4 Toasting spices, and ‘cooking them out’ when they are added to the pan, reinvigorates their flavour, making the curry more aromatic and with a more rounded depth. 5 The flavour of curry develops over time. Save some for tomorrow and see how delicious it tastes a day after it’s cooked.

AUGUST 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 39

dinner dash

FETA

Three new, simple and delicious ways to enjoy feta cheese recipes ESTHER CLARK photographs MIKE ENGLISH

Salmon with beetroot, feta & lime salsa SERVES 2

Chop the beetroot and feta into small cubes and mix with the juice and zest of one lime and some seasoning. Season the salmon. Heat 2 tbsp of oil in a nonstick frying pan over a high heat. When hot add the salmon, skin-side down, and cook for 3 mins. Flip over, turn the heat down and cook for a further 4-5 mins. Serve with the beetroot salsa and the remaining lime, cut into wedges. GOOD TO KNOW folate • omega-3 • 1 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING 556 kcals • fat 39g • saturates 9g • carbs 12g • sugars 10g • fibre 4g • protein 36g • salt 1.2g

+ 200g cooked beetroot

+ =

70g feta

+ 2 limes

2 skin-on salmon fillets

Roasted feta SERVES 2 V

Tip the antipasti and its oil into a roasting tin, squeeze over the lemon juice, reserving the zest, and place the feta in the middle of the tin. Season with black pepper and drizzle over a little extra olive oil. Bake in the oven at 180C/160C fan/gas 4 for 25 mins. Toast the pittas for 1-2 minutes until warmed through. Scatter the lemon zest over the feta. Serve with the pittas. GOOD TO KNOW calcium • fibre • 2 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 540 kcals • fat 28g • saturates 15g • carbs 40g • sugars 15g • fibre 10g • protein 26g • salt 7.90g

+

+ =

200g vegetarian 2 x 185g pack chargrilled feta veg antipasti

+ 1 lemon

2 large wholemeal pittas

SERVES 2 V

De-stone and quarter the peaches. Put in a roasting tin with the seeds, chunks of feta and drizzle over 3 tbsp olive oil. Bake for 12-15 mins at 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Cook the couscous following pack instructions. Toss the couscous with the roasted peach mixture and season to taste before serving.

+ 3 ripe peaches

35g mixed seeds

+

GOOD TO KNOW calcium • vit c • 1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 573 kcals • fat 27g • saturates 13g • carbs 54g • sugars 16g • fibre 7g • protein 25g • salt 2.74g

150g vegetarian feta

40 bbcgoodfood.com AUGUST 2017

+

1 x 100g pack lemon & garlic couscous

=

Food stylist ANNIE RIGG | Stylist SARAH BIRKS

Feta & peach couscous

easiest ever

easy bakes

icebox cake This is one of the simplest cakes you can make as it doesn’t even require baking – just assemble, chill and serve recipe LULU GRIMES photograph TOM REGESTER

Raspberry & ginger fridge cake Icebox cake, or fridge cake, is one of the easiest desserts you can make. When it’s left to chill in the fridge, the biscuits absorb the moisture from the cream and begin to soften, which gives the cake a deliciously fudgy texture. This method suits all kinds of flavour combinations; try peanut biscuits with strawberries, or chocolate or caramel biscuits with layers of chocolate sauce and cream. SERVES 8 PREP 20 mins plus at least 3 hrs chilling NO COOK EASY

Food stylist ESTHER CLARK | Stylist FAYE WEARS

600ml double or whipping cream

1 tsp vanilla extract or paste 1 ball preserved ginger in syrup, finely chopped (reserve the syrup) 400g ginger biscuits 250g raspberries

1 Using an electric whisk, beat the cream to soft peaks, then fold in the vanilla extract and chopped preserved ginger. 2 Arrange about 5-6 biscuits (depending on their size) in a circle on a serving plate, then fill the gap in the centre with more biscuits. Spoon a layer of the whipped cream in blobs onto each biscuit and dot over some raspberries, pushing them into the cream. Add another, smaller circle of biscuits in a layer, and add more cream and raspberries. Repeat until you have used all the cream and biscuits, then decorate with any remaining raspberries. 3 Put the cake in the fridge to chill for at least 3 hrs. To test if the cake is ready to serve, poke a skewer into the biscuits in the centre. Once they’re soft enough to cut, the cake is ready. Drizzle over some ginger syrup just before serving, if you like.

just 5 ingredients

PER SERVING 526 kcals • fat 38g • saturates 23g • carbs 40g • sugars 19g • fibre 2g • protein 4g • salt 0.5g

AUGUST 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 41

KITCHEN SALE HALF PRICE PLUS AN EXTRA 25% OFF

Contour kitchen £5,858 For all these fully built kitchen units c

63 showrooms nationwide, visit wrenkitchens.com cPriced kitchen is for units only and does not include the price of handles, worktops, appliances, sink, tap, props, accessories or small worktop appliances. Price taken 03/07/2017 ®+DOISULFHSOXVDQH[WUDRƪUHIHUVWRNLWFKHQXQLWVRQO\ZKHQ\RXEX\RUPRUH6DOHHQGV

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rainbow FAMILY

FOOD

Encourage your little chef to eat a rainbow every day with these fun, fresh and easy recipes Recipes: LULU GRIMES photographs WILL HEAP

44 bbcgoodfood.com AUGUST 2017

easiest ever

get s d i k e t th e l – s ings e t p a p d o y t a l n t for p ick their ow c e f r e P dp n a e v i t crea

AUGUST 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 45

Rainbow pizzas Using ready-made pizza bases makes this super quick. Or buy pizza-base mix and follow the instructions to make your own. SERVES 4 PREP 20 mins COOK 20 mins EASY

2 plain pizza bases 6 tbsp passata 400g mixed red and yellow tomatoes, sliced 75g sprouting broccoli, stems finely sliced 8 green olives, pitted and halved (optional) 150g mozzarella cherries (bocconcini) 2 tbsp fresh pesto handful fresh basil leaves, to serve

1 Heat the oven to 180C/160C fan/ gas 4. Put each pizza base on a baking sheet and spread each with half of the passata. Arrange the tomatoes on the top in rings or wedges of colour and add the broccoli and the olives, if using. Squish the mozzarella cherries a little before dotting them over the pizzas, then drizzle 1 tbsp pesto over each. 2 Bake for 15-20 mins or until the top is bubbling and just starting to brown a little. Scatter over the basil leaves before serving. GOOD TO KNOW calcium PER SERVING 534 kcals • fat 17g • saturates 6g • carbs 73g • sugars 8g • fibre 5g • protein 19g • salt 1.8g

Layered rainbow salad pots SERVES 4 PREP 25 mins COOK 12 mins EASY

350g pasta shapes (De Cecco is a good brand that stays nice and firm) 200g green beans, trimmed and chopped into short lengths

160g can tuna in olive oil, drained 4 tbsp mayonnaise 4 tbsp natural yogurt 1 /2 small pack chives, snipped (optional) 200g cherry tomatoes, quartered 1 orange pepper, cut into little cubes 195g can sweetcorn, drained

1 Cook the pasta until it is still a little al dente (2 mins less than the pack instructions) and drain well. Cook the green beans in simmering water for 2 mins, then rinse in cold water and drain well. Mix the tuna with the mayonnaise and yogurt. Add the chives, if using. 2 Tip the pasta into a large glass bowl or four small ones or four wide-necked jars (useful for taking on picnics). Spoon the tuna dressing over the top of the pasta. Add a layer of green beans, followed by a layer of cherry tomatoes, then the pepper and sweetcorn. Cover and chill until you’re ready to eat. GOOD TO KNOW fibre • vit c • 2 of 5-a-day • good for you PER SERVING 697 kcals • fat 30g • saturates 3g • carbs 77g • sugars 13g • fibre 9g • protein 24g • salt 0.5g

46 bbcgoodfood.com AUGUST 2017

easiest ever

Rice paper wraps Some supermarkets sell a packaged kit for making rice paper wraps. MAKES 8 PREP 20 mins COOK 3 mins EASY

50g rice vermicelli noodles 1 carrot, peeled 1 avocado, peeled and destoned

/4 cucumber 8 rice paper wraps 8 king prawns, peeled and cooked 8 mint leaves 1 /2 cooked chicken breast, shredded sweet chilli sauce, to serve 1

1 Put the noodles in a pan of water and bring to the boil, simmer for 3 mins, then cool under running water. Drain thoroughly. 2 Cut the carrot into matchsticks using a knife or a mandoline. Cut the avocado into strips and the cucumber into thin sticks. Soak 2 of the rice paper wraps in cold water for 1-2 mins until floppy. 3 Lift 1 sheet of rice paper out of the water, shake gently, then lay it carefully on a board. Place 2 prawns in the centre, with a mint leaf between them. Add a strip of avocado, pile some noodles on top, then add a layer of carrot and cucumber. Fold the bottom half of the rice paper over, then fold the sides in and tightly roll it up. Repeat using the second wrapper and soak 2 more to make 2 more rolls. 4 Make the rest of the rolls up using the remaining 4 wraps and the shredded chicken instead of prawns. Serve the rolls with the sweet chilli sauce for dipping. GOOD TO KNOW good for you PER SERVING 125 kcals • fat 5g • saturates 1g • carbs 15g • sugars 1g • fibre 2g • protein 5g • salt 0.2g

AUGUST 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 47

Super-easy fruit ice cream Surprise supper in a parcel SERVES 4 PREP 10 mins COOK 30 mins

200g spaghetti 2 courgettes, grated 100g red cherry tomatoes, halved

100g yellow cherry tomatoes, halved 4 salmon fillets or 2 chicken breasts 4 tbsp olive oil 1 garlic clove, finely sliced

1 Heat oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4. Cook the spaghetti following pack instructions and drain. Cut 4 rectangles of baking parchment off a roll, each twice as long as it is wide. Lay them on a work surface. Toss the spaghetti with the grated courgettes. Divide the spaghetti between the pieces of parchment, then divide the cherry tomatoes between each pile. 2 If using salmon, slice lengthways, but keep the fillet together. Place on top of the veg and press sideways so the slices move apart a little. If using chicken, halve each breast through the middle horizontally to give four pieces, then cut each into strips and tip a pile of chicken strips onto each pile of spaghetti. 3 Heat the oil and fry the garlic for 1 min, then pour a little garlic oil over each pile. Season with black pepper if your children like it. Bring the two longer sides of parchment up to meet in the middle and fold the ends over and over, working down towards the filling, leaving a little room for the steam to expand the parcel. Flatten the seam down and then fold in each end. Use paper clips to hold the folds, if you like. Lift the parcels onto a baking tray and bake for 10-15 mins. The parcels should puff up as they cook. 4 Serve each person a puffed parcel in a shallow bowl and snip it open at the table, staying clear of any steam (removing any paperclips). GOOD TO KNOW omega-3 • 1 of 5-a-day • good for you PER SERVING 637 kcals • fat 33g • saturates 5g • carbs 40g • sugars 4g • fibre 4g • protein 43g • salt 0.5g

48 bbcgoodfood.com AUGUST 2017

SERVES 6 PREP 20 mins NO COOK V G

200g strawberries (as red as you can get), hulled 1 large mango, deseeded and peeled 1 /4 lemon, juiced

3 very ripe bananas, peeled 200g condensed milk 600ml double cream 4 kiwi fruit, peeled sprinkles or finely chopped strawberries and mango, to serve

1 Mash or purée the strawberries and mango in two separate bowls. In another bowl, add the lemon juice and the banana and mash. 2 Beat the condensed milk and cream in a large bowl with an electric whisk until thick and quite stiff, a bit like clotted cream. Divide the mixture between the three bowls. Fold a fruit purée into each. Transfer each one into a freezer container and freeze until solid. 3 Purée the kiwi and sieve out any seeds, if you like. Serve a scoop of each flavour ice cream in bowls or sundae dishes and top with kiwi sauce, sprinkles, or the chopped fruit. GOOD TO KNOW 2 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING 711 kcals • fat 57g • saturates 35g • carbs 42g • sugars 41g • fibre 4g • protein 6g • salt 0.1g

on our website

Giving your baby their first taste of foods is a huge milestone. With this in mind, we’ve developed and triple-tested a host of weaning recipes to nourish your baby as they move on from milk and formula. Find all our new recipes and lots of extra information, from baby-led weaning to recipes for toddlers, by visiting bbcgoodfood.com/weaning-hub For more family meals, visit bbcgoodfood.com/recipes/collection/family-meal

easiest ever

This ice cream recipe is a breeze to make and will feel like magic to the kids

AUGUST 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 49

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AUGUST 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 51

Iced tea cooler, p60 Inflatable pink flamingo, p61

CALIFORNIA

cool

Hot days demand food that is neither taxing to make nor eat. Pull up a sun lounger, kick back and enjoy the heat with these dishes made for summer recipes SOPHIE GODWIN photographs MYLES NEW

AUGUST 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 53

All the DOGS

See our hot dog bun test on p56 for our top buys

Cheesesteak

Steak, crispy onions and melted cheese – what’s not to love?

Tempura veg

Beer-battered veg, chilli jam and salted peanuts – this meat-free dog is a winner!

Crab roll

We’ve taken all the elements of a crab & avocado sushi roll and added crisp nori for extra crunch

54 bbcgoodfood.com AUGUST 2017

california cool

Blackened shrimp

A fajita spice mix is a speedy way to add bags of flavour to the prawns

Next-level hot dogs and cold beer – hello summer!

Korean

We’ve given this hot dog an Asian makeover with spicy gochujang mayo and kimchi

AUGUST 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 55

S All the DORG ECIPES

3

OUR TOP supermarket

hot dog buns We blind taste tested supermarket hot dog buns to find our favourites

Blackened shrimp SERVES 4 PREP 15 mins COOK 3 mins EASY

180g raw king prawns 2 tbsp fajita seasoning 2 tbsp vegetable oil 400g can black beans, drained and rinsed 2 limes, 1 juiced, 1 cut into wedges to serve

��STAR BUY�� Two brioche hot dog rolls, £1.39, Waitrose Our top pick, these are buttery with a balanced flavour.

Specially Selected Brioche Hot Dog Rolls (six pack), 99p, Aldi These have a good brioche flavour and come pre-sliced for convenience.

Four giant hot dog rolls, 89p, Co-op These big rolls are great for piling with fillings. We like the rice flour finish, which adds a nice texture.

small bunch coriander, leaves only ½ jalapeño (deseeded if you like), finely chopped 3 tbsp mayonnaise 4 hot dog buns 1 /2 mango, peeled and thinly sliced

1 Mix the prawns with the fajita seasoning and the oil, set aside. Mix the beans with the lime juice, half the coriander and a good pinch of seasoning. In a separate bowl, stir the jalapeño into the mayo. 2 Fry the prawns to just pink, remove from pan, set aside. 3 Split the buns in half, fill each with a quarter of the beans, then the mango. Top with the prawns, drizzle over the mayo, scatter over the remaining coriander and serve with the lime wedges. GOOD TO KNOW fibre • 1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 495 kcals • fat 25g • saturates 2g • carbs 45g • sugars 8g • fibre 7g • protein 19g • salt 2.4g

Tempura veg SERVES 4 PREP 15 mins COOK 10 mins MORE EFFORT V

3 tbsp mayo 1 tbsp chilli jam 4 hot dog buns 500ml oil, for frying 50g cornflour 30g plain flour 80ml cold lager 300g mixed vegetables

(we used courgette, aubergine and red pepper), cut into chunks 2 spring onions, thinly sliced 2 tbsp salted peanuts, roughly chopped

1 Mix the mayo with the chilli jam and set aside. Split the buns in half and get everything else ready. 2 Heat the oil in a heavy-bottomed pan until 180C or until a little piece of veg browns in 20 secs. Line a baking tray with kitchen paper, then whisk together the flours and beer with a good pinch of seasoning. 3 Working in batches, spoon the veg pieces into the batter, toss to coat, then fry until golden brown and crisp, about 2-3 mins. Remove with a slotted spoon, drain on the kitchen paper and sprinkle with salt. Repeat the process until all the veg is fried. 4 Divide the tempura veg between the buns, drizzle over some mayo, then top with the spring onions and peanuts. GOOD TO KNOW vit c • 1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 601 kcals • fat 36g • saturates 4g • carbs 55g • sugars 8g • fibre 4g • protein 11g • salt 1.1g

56 bbcgoodfood.com AUGUST 2017

Korean SERVES 4 PREP 15 mins COOK 5 mins EASY

4 frankfurter hot dogs 1 /2 tsp honey 3 tbsp mayo 1-11/2 tbsp gochujang splash of rice wine vinegar

4 hot dog buns 120g kimchi 1 carrot, peeled into ribbons 1 tsp seasame seeds, toasted

1 Cook the hot dogs following pack instructions. Mix the honey, mayo, gochujang and vinegar in a bowl. 2 Split the buns in half, put a hot dog in each and divide the kimchi between them. Drizzle with spicy mayo, then top with a few carrot ribbons and some sesame seeds. PER SERVING 536 kcals • fat 36g • saturates 7g • carbs 38g • sugars 6g • fibre 2g • protein 15g • salt 2.5g

Crab roll SERVES 4 PREP 15 mins COOK 2 mins EASY

1 nori sheet 200g white crabmeat 4 tbsp mayonnaise 1 lemon, zested and juiced

1 avocado, sliced 1-2 tsp wasabi (depending on how spicy you like it) 4 hot dog buns

1 Toast the nori sheet in a dry frying pan over a high heat until crisp. Leave to cool and cut into strips. 2 Mix the crabmeat with 1 tbsp mayo, the lemon zest and half the juice, then season. Toss the avocado in the remaining lemon juice, and stir the wasabi into the remaining mayo. 3 Divide the crabmeat and avocado between the hot dog buns, drizzle over the wasabi mayo and top with nori. PER CRAB ROLL 536 kcals • fat 35g • saturates 4g • carbs 36g • sugars 6g • fibre 4g • protein 18g • salt 1.41g

Cheesesteak SERVES 4 PREP 5 mins COOK 15 mins EASY

1 large rib-eye steak (approx 300g) 3 tbsp olive oil 2 garlic cloves, crushed but whole 2 green peppers, sliced

4 hot dog buns 60g smoked cheddar, sliced yellow mustard (we used French’s), to serve 2 tbsp crispy onions

1 Season the steak well, then fry it with the garlic in hot oil for 4-5 mins on each side for medium rare. Put the steak on a board to rest and discard the garlic. 2 Add the peppers and a pinch of salt to the pan with extra oil if needed and cook for 3-4 mins. 3 Heat grill to high. Thinly slice the steak. Fill each bun with a quarter of the steak, peppers and cheese slices. Grill for 2-3 mins, drizzle with mustard and top with onions. GOOD TO KNOW vit c • 1 of 5-a-day PER HOT DOG 481 kcals • fat 24g • saturates 9g • carbs 37g • sugars 7g • fibre 3g • protein 28g • salt 1.3g

california cool

XO pork ribs

XO is a spicy seafood sauce. When you buy it, check the sugar content – if sugar is listed as the first ingredient, reduce the honey by a tablespoon. SERVES 3 PREP 10 mins COOK 1 hr 20 mins EASY

2 tbsp vegetable oil 700g pork spare ribs 2 garlic cloves, sliced thumb-sized piece ginger, sliced 4 spring onions, chopped

2 star anise a few Sichuan peppercorns 3 tbsp XO sauce 3 tbsp malt vinegar 2 tbsp honey 500ml chicken stock 2 limes, 1 zested and 1 cut into wedges to serve good pinch of chilli flakes

1 Heat oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4. Heat the oil over a high heat in a large flameproof roasting tin. Season the pork, then fry until browned in places – don’t worry about the ribs getting evenly browned, you are just looking for a little colour as it will add lots of flavour to the dish. 2 Add all the remaining ingredients, except the lime zest and chilli, to the tin, stir, then arrange the ribs so they are in a single layer. Once the liquid has started to boil, transfer to the oven and roast for 1 hr, turning the ribs halfway. 3 Take the tin out of the oven and carefully put back on the hob over a medium heat. The liquid will have reduced considerably. Keep turning the ribs over to coat in the sauce – they are ready once they are all covered and glossy, around 10 mins. Scatter over the lime zest and chilli flakes and serve with lime wedges and plenty of kitchen paper. PER SERVING 515 kcals • fat 32g • saturates 9g • carbs 14g • sugars 12g • fibre 2g • protein 43g • salt 1.4g

AUGUST 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 57

Grilled aubergine, watermelon & sesame salad SERVES 4 PREP 20 mins COOK 50 mins MORE EFFORT V

200g black rice 2 aubergines, cut into long thin strips 4 tbsp vegetable oil 2 tbsp black sesame seeds good pinch chilli flakes

1 Rinse the rice under cold water to get rid of some of the starch, then cook following pack instructions. Drain, then spread out on a baking tray and leave to cool completely. 2 Meanwhile, heat a griddle pan until searing hot. Toss the aubergine slices in 3 tbsp oil then, working in batches, cook for around 5 mins on each side until tender and charred. Put them in a bowl, then cover with foil so they continue to soften. Set the pan aside (there’s no need to wash as you’ll use it later). 3 Line a baking tray with parchment. Mix the sesame seeds, chilli flakes and a good pinch of sea salt together. Melt the sugar in a small saucepan over a low heat – resist the temptation to stir otherwise it will crystallize. Once the sugar is a deep caramel colour, turn off the heat and stir

50g caster sugar ½ small watermelon (about 500g) cut into chunks 2 tbsp white miso paste thumb-sized piece ginger, grated 1 lime, juiced 1 tsp sesame oil 100g feta, crumbled into large pieces

in the sesame mix, then tip onto the parchment. Flatten the brittle out as best you can (be careful as it will be very hot) and leave to cool. 4 Whisk the remaining oil with the miso, ginger, lime juice and sesame oil, then whisk in enough water to loosen the dressing. Season to taste, then set aside. 5 Reheat the griddle pan. Lightly salt the watermelon slices and griddle for 30 secs on each side until charred, then set aside. 6 To assemble the salad, mix the aubergine and dressing through the rice, then transfer to a large serving bowl. Top with the feta and watermelon, then break the brittle into shards and stand them upright for dramatic effect in the salad. GOOD TO KNOW fibre • 2 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 513 kcals • fat 22g • saturates 5g • carbs 65g • sugars 26g • fibre 6g • protein 11g • salt 1.5g

Make this summer’s hottest fruit the star in this refreshing salad

58 bbcgoodfood.com AUGUST 2017

california cool

This recipe makes more brittle than you need. Keep it an airtight container for up to a week

Buy prepackaged watermelon if that’s easier – try to look for larger chunks or slices

AUGUST 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 59

3

BEST WAYS to chill drinks ! Add table salt to the water and ice in an ice bucket to chill drinks quickly (even quicker than putting them in the freezer). Salt lowers the freezing point of water and makes the ice melt quicker. ! Wrap your drink in a piece of wet kitchen paper and freeze for 15-20 minutes, the kitchen paper will solidify to give a drinks-cooler effect (don’t forget about them). ! Freeze a tray of water and break the ice into large chunks – more of the liquid will be in contact with ice, and the chunks won’t melt as fast either.

Iced tea cooler

SERVES 6 PREP 20 mins COOK 45 mins EASY V

1kg sweet potatoes, scrubbed and cut into fries (leave the skin on) 3 tbsp olive oil 1 tbsp smoked salt 4 tbsp polenta

For the dip 180g thick Greek yogurt 1 jalapeño (deseeded if you don’t like it very hot), roughly chopped 1 garlic clove, roughly chopped 1 small pack mint, leaves picked 1 small pack coriander 1 lime, juiced 1 tsp ground cumin

1 Heat oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Toss the sweet potatoes with the oil, smoked salt and polenta in a large bowl or ziplock bag, massaging them well to coat. Spread out onto two large baking trays, then roast for 45 mins until tender and crisp, turning the trays halfway so that the fries cook evenly. 2 Meanwhile, blitz all the ingredients for the dip together with some seasoning to a smooth green sauce – this can be made in the morning and kept in the fridge. Serve alongside the sweet potato fries. GOOD TO KNOW fibre • vit c • 1 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING 339 kcals • fat 10g • saturates 3g • carbs 53g • sugars 24g • fibre 8g • protein 6g • salt 2.5g

60 bbcgoodfood.com AUGUST 2017

SERVES 4 PREP 10 mins NO COOK EASY

50ml white rum 50ml gin 50ml vodka 50ml fino sherry 1 tbsp agave syrup 1 lemon, juiced 2 limes, 1 juiced and 1 cut into wedges to serve cola and ice, to serve

Put all the spirits, lemon and lime juice in a large jug, then top with ice and cola. Stir well and serve with a lime wedge in each glass. GOOD TO KNOW gluten free PER SERVING 122 kcals • fat none • saturates none • carbs 5g • sugars 4g • fibre none • protein none • salt none

Food stylist AMY STEPHENSON | Stylist TONY HUTCHINSON

Polenta sweet potato fries with herby dip

Long Island iced tea is a classic, but a boozy one. This is a twist on the original with a little more cola to top it up.

california cool

Chipotle corn salad SERVES 4 PREP 20 mins COOK 10 mins EASY V

1 small red onion, thinly sliced 1 tbsp red wine vinegar pinch of sugar 4 corn cobs 30g butter 1 heaped tbsp chipotle paste 300g cherry tomatoes, halved 3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil 1 lime, zested and juiced small bunch coriander, roughly chopped 2 Little Gem lettuces, each cut into quarters 50g macadamia nuts, toasted and roughly chopped 1 avocado, sliced

GET THE

Palm tree picks (pack of 12), £1.99, partypieces.co.uk

look

Take your summer entertaining up a notch with these fun, affordable table decorations

1 Mix the red onion with the vinegar, a pinch of salt and the sugar. Set aside. 2 Bring a large pan of salted water to the boil, add the corn and cook for 4 mins until partly tender, drain then rinse under cold water to cool. Pat dry then, holding the corn upright, slice down the sides of each cob to remove the corn kernels. Discard the core. 3 Heat the butter in a large frying pan over a high heat until foaming, tip in the corn, chipotle paste and a good pinch of salt. Cook the corn for 6-8 mins until blackened in places – don’t stir too often. Remove from the heat and stir in the tomatoes, then set aside. 4 Stir the oil, lime zest, juice and most of the coriander into the onions to make a dressing. Season to taste, then toss with the lettuce and tip onto a platter. Scatter over the avocado, followed by the chipotle corn mix. Top with the nuts and remaining coriander. GOOD TO KNOW folate • fibre • 3 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING 401 kcals • fat 33g • saturates 8g • carbs 14g • sugars 8g • fibre 9g • protein 7g • salt 0.4g

& Inflatable flamingo drinks holders, £2.64 each, amazon.co.uk

Palm print plate, £3.99, H&M

We’ve collated our favourite foodie flamingo accessories, just for you. Tag your coolest pics with #bbcgfflamingo and we’ll add the best ones to our board! pinterest.com/bbcgoodfood/ foodie-flamingos/

AUGUST 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 61

Club Tropicana ice cream cake SERVES 8 PREP 1 hr plus freezing COOK 2 mins EASY V G

1 madeira cake (we used one from M&S that comes in a large rectangular block) 500ml tub mango sorbet 500ml tub vanilla ice cream 50g dark chocolate 500ml tub raspberry sorbet 150ml double cream, whipped maraschino cherries, to decorate

1 Cut a piece of sponge about 5mm thick to fit a 1lb 16 x 10cm loaf tin and trim off any dark edges (off-cuts are a cooks perk). Line the loaf tin with a double layer of strong cling film and push the sponge into the base. If the madeira cake is smaller than the tin, patch any gaps – you won’t see them when the cake is finished. 2 Spoon a layer of mango sorbet into the tin using three-quarters of the tub, flatten the surface using the back of a spoon and freeze for 10 mins. Repeat using the vanilla ice cream, then add another layer of sponge. Melt the chocolate and pour it over the second layer of sponge. Freeze for 10 mins, then carefully add a layer of raspberry sorbet in the same way, followed by a final layer of sponge. Cover the lot in cling film, then freeze until you need it. Turn the ice cream cake out of the tin onto a plate and peel off the cling film, then decorate the top with whipped cream and cherries. Wait 10 mins before slicing with a long, straight-edged knife. Extra cherries optional PER SERVING 510 kcals • fat 24g • saturates 14g • carbs 67g • sugars 58g • fibre 1g • protein 6g • salt 0.6g

make our cover recipe

62 bbcgoodfood.com AUGUST 2017

california cool

Choose a mango sorbet with a real, strong colour.

Freshly whipped cream will start to freeze when added, making it easier to slice.

A layer of dark chocolate adds crunch.

Raspberry sorbet with whole raspbarries will vary the texture of the bottom layer.

AUGUST 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 63

california cool

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64 bbcgoodfood.com AUGUST 2017

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summer drinks

Victoria Moore KEEP IT COOL

Chilling red wine is not as sacrilegious as it may sound @how_to_drink

@planetvictoria

he day is hot and the wine is too warm. I ask the When I am visiting wineries in a warm climate such as in barman for some ice and plop! plop! plop! three Argentina or Australia, winemakers always pour the red, yes cubes are in my drink. The day is still hot but the even burly malbec or shiraz, from a temperature-controlled wine is cool enough – and my friends are staring chiller unit, usually set to about 16C. It would be considered at me as though I just went up to a Caravaggio in the Uffizi vinocide to do otherwise, so much better does the wine taste and defaced it with a Sharpie because the shadows weren’t when it has this fresh edge. in the right place. At home, the easiest way to get a bottle of red to the right I see the point. Putting ice cubes in your wine temperature on a warm day is to give it 20-30 isn’t the perfect solution – who wants to dilute minutes in the fridge before uncorking. Or, if you their drink? – but it’s a lot kinder to the wine than can’t wait, pour yourself a small glass to be going on drinking it when it’s too warm. White or rosé with and THEN put the bottle in the fridge. Red wine wine that isn’t cold enough loses its definition, And if the wine – white, rosé or orange – is the that is too as well as the invigorating frisson you get from right temperature but you don’t have an ice bucket, warm any chilled drink; but likewise, red becomes or don’t want to be bobbing up and down to and soupy and feels baggy and shapeless, like clothes from the fridge to keep it that way, then I have a becomes that don’t fit you. handy gadget for you. The Corkcicle wine cooler soupy Yes, red wine can be served too warm – and in looks like an icicle topped with a cork and is and feels summer it often is. We have a peculiar blind spot with freeze gel. Keep it in your freezer, shapeless filled about this. I’ve never met anyone who couldn’t then pop it into an open bottle of wine to keep white – like say straight away if they thought the white wine white wines chilled or cool down warm reds. It’s clothes could do with half an hour in the freezer, yet it’s available from amazon.co.uk, root7.com, John Lewis that don’t always assumed that nothing could possibly go and other retailers for around £15 and it really works. wrong with the red. We have the old saw about But if all else fails – ice cubes. Put a few in to get fit you drinking red at ‘room temperature’ to thank for the temperature down rapidly, then fish them out that. What does room temperature actually and you’ll minimise dilution. mean? It’s often taken to be 20C but really next Victoria recommends the 16-18C is a better bet. Either way, safe to say month best wines to drink with curry that if you’re wearing a Bardot dress (ladies) or a T-shirt and shorts (ladies and gents) and you’re Victoria Moore is an award-winning wine columnist and author. not wondering where you’ve put your jumper, Her new book, The Wine Dine Dictionary (£20, Granta), is out now. the red wine is probably too hot.

Portrait CLARA MOLDEN

This month I’m eating

Poptails by Lapp (4.5%, around £4, see poptailsbylapp.co.uk for stockists) Ice lollies that look like Calippos but taste like cocktails and come in three flavours. My favourite? The Punch – a rum, pineapple and mango sorbet: the perfect way to cool down at the end of a sticky day.

What to eat with…

+ +

Taste the Difference Valpolicella Ripasso 2014 Italy (Sainsbury’s, £11) The slightly sweet-sour taste of this lightish red wine is very distinctive. Try it with Rosie’s red mullet (p18). Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi 2016 Italy (Co-op, £5.79) The clean, herbaceous flavours of this white are refreshing, and a pert match for the crab rolls (p56).

AUGUST 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 65

Sustainability may not sound so exciting. But it’s floated Egil’s boat for 40 years.

Egil became a fisherman when he was 15, enticed by the adventure and excitement. But like all Norwegians, he soon got very serious – particularly about sustainability. 40 years on, it means he can still provide UK fish & chip shops with a steady supply of delicious cod and haddock, which he freezes at sea on his ship Ramoen to lock in the Arctic freshness. Egil Skarbøvik, Skipper, Ramoen

seafoodfromnorway.co.uk

@norwayseafood

seafoodfromnorway

“op nioN

Food for thought, from Britain’s finest writers on how we eat today

Tony Naylor

Ben Fogle portrait JEFF SPICER/WIREIMAGE, main photograph ADAM SARGENT

reviews Skosh in York

Eat outdoors! Britain’s coolest al fresco hotspots Expeditions and noodle

sarnies Ben Fogle I discover eat-along

movies Emma Freud Don’t put up with picky

eaters Joanna Blythman AUGUST 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 69

AL FRESCO

BRITAIN The 55 hottest places to stay cool this summer Summer’s here; time to get out on Britain’s sun-baked streets and rooftop gardens and to enjoy its cute waterside idylls with some al fresco eats and booze. As the mercury rises, Good Food has the skinny on the coolest places to chill in our bustling cities and beyond words TONY NAYLOR

70 bbcgoodfood.com AUGUST 2017

WATERSIDE CHILL IN LEEDS From the river garden at suburban beer paradise, Kirkstall Bridge Inn ( kirkstallbridge.co.uk), to the terrace at Francophile city-centre stalwart, Brasserie Forty 4 ( brasserie44.com), there are numerous places in Leeds where you can relax beside the River Aire or LeedsLiverpool canal. But, this summer, it is all about the newbies. Off Leeds Dock, North Star Coffee & General Store, a collab between roasters North Star and Noisette Bakehouse (£5.50-£9; northstarroast.com), is newly open for superb coffee, sunny seasonal brunches and bangin’ bread, tarts and scones. If you want to snack on the water’s edge, grab a takeout of Noisette’s signature soured cream batter Morning Cakes. At Water Lane Boathouse, an ex-granary that spills out onto a Canal Wharf terrace, chef Ben Davy creator of fabled food outlets at Belgrave Music Hall and Headrow House (Ox Club, Patty Smith’s etc.) – is serving knockout Neapolitan pizza. These sourdough beauties are blast-cooked in an imported Stefano Ferrara – the Ferrari of handmade clay pizza ovens – and topped either supertraditionally, with, say, San Marzano tomato sauce and mozzarella, or (echoing the creativity at Ben’s NY-style slice bar, Dough Boys), fresh combos such as smoked aubergine, roast cauli and gremolata. ‘We’re making bread, too,’ says Ben, referring to Water Lane’s menu of sassy sandwiches.

opinion

Water Lane Boathouse in Leeds

AUGUST 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 71

‘We did some research and talked to Graham [Faragher] at Bertha’s Pizza in Bristol, who bakes using his Stefano Ferrara. It inspired us to do the same.’ Wash all that down with on-point craft beers, including ales from Leeds’ own Northern Monk (from £4.95; waterlaneboathouse.com).

A feast at Nancarrow Farm in Cornwall

MEDITERRANEAN ESCAPES IN CARDIFF True, there are cooler Med-flavoured joints in town. Check Dusty Knuckle’s (@dusty_knuckle) wood-fired pizzas served in the courtyard at art hub, Printhaus. And prettier ones, too. The sun-trap garden at Roath’s Porro ( porrocardiff. com) is a sweet spot, even before you get to its gutsy Italian plates of pappardelle with braised ox cheek. But there is something about Bar 44 (spoiler: it’s the food; tapas from £3.60; bar44.co.uk), which makes its handful of pavement tables the hottest of real estate over summer. Pretend the Millennium Stadium opposite is the Nou Camp and you could be in Barcelona as you graze on ibérico croquetas; braised lamb with charred onions & Navarrese chistorra sausage; or Moorish roast squash with mint, almonds & spiced aubergine purée. BREW-TAPS & BEER FOOD IN MANCHESTER Central Manchester’s railway arches and industrial units are teeming with terrific young breweries (Runaway, ShinDigger, Squawk, Track, Cloudwater), who throw irregular brew-tap parties, bringing together the city’s best beer and street food. You can check their dates on Twitter and Facebook, but first swing by Alphabet Brewing Co. (meals £5-9; @AlphabetBrewCo), which every Saturday, on a grimy street behind Piccadilly Station, showcases four traders as diverse as Diamond Dogs and dosa dons, Chaat Cart. Dig in over a pint of Alphabet’s brilliant, chewy A-to-the-K oatmeal pale ale and, if the dates align, then head to Blackjack (25-27 August; blackjack-beers. com), which, at its lively tap nights, has given early exposure to many of the break-out stars on Manchester’s street scene. HIDDEN SPACES IN EDINBURGH Particularly during the Fringe festival (4-28 August), visitors to Edinburgh need to know its hidden outdoor spaces; those places where you can swerve the crowds and take a breather. For drinks, try the backyard beer gardens at Blackbird (theblackbirdedinburgh.co.uk) and the craft colossus, Salt Horse (salthorse.beer), but for guaranteed high-grade gastro thrills head to Timberyard (mains from £12.50, lunch; timberyard.co). In this hip, post-industrial space,

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The Culpeper in London’s Spitalfields

opinion

the Radford family have created a New Nordic-inspired restaurant (expect lots of foraging, smoking, preserving and natural wine), where chef Ben Radford makes distinctive use of some exceptional Scottish produce. Sitting in the handsome courtyard, you might enjoy raw Isle of Mull scallops so fresh they’re still pulsating, served with intense pea juice, fresh peas, radish and wild sorrel. The only issue, laughs Ben, is the unpredictable weather: ‘In Scotland we can’t take bookings for the yard, but on a good day it gets the sun from 10am until 7pm.’ SUN & SHADE IN BIRMINGHAM There might not be many cool, shady nooks amid central Brum’s chaotic urban sprawl, but seek and ye shall find. If you prefer gritty to pretty, the quirky railway arch ‘garden’ at next-level burger joint, Original Patty Men (from £6.50; originalpattymen.com) – all fake grass, pot plants and trestle tables – is great. As is its classic bacon cheeseburger: charred, moist Longhorn beef, peppy pickles and American cheese. For a more refined experience, head into leafy inner-suburb Edgbaston, where the Michelin-starred Simpson’s occupies one of the area’s many white Georgian villas. The decked terrace is the perfect place to linger over highly creative, summery dishes such as chef Nathan Eades’ lobster & heritage Evesham tomato salad. It comes with a chilled tomato & coriander tea that, as you finish, you pour into the bowl and slurp down (from £35; simpsonsrestaurant.co.uk). HIGH-RISE DINING IN LONDON City suits love the neatly manicured rooftop garden at Coq D’Argent (coqdargent.co.uk), and Shoreditch ad execs the citrus-scented orangery at Boundary ( boundary.london). But when the Good Food team want to get high, we head up to the gorgeous rooftop garden at Spitalfield’s laidback Culpeper. This neo-Victorian boozer does a fine line in ingredient-focused, modern European dishes, such as courgette tart with pea shoots & ricotta, and there is a wood-fired grill on the roof, too (think lamb chops with chimichurri). The adjacent greenhouse supplies ingredients for the pub’s seasonal herbal cocktails, served

8

Riddle & Finns in Brighton

MORE DELICIOUS AL FRESCO RETREATS

1 2

Green Café, Shropshire Serious food best eaten on the weir-side terrace. thegreencafe.co.uk

Inn At Whitewell, Lancashire Remote 14th century riverside pub; sound locally-sourced grub. innatwhitewell.com

3

Nancarrow Farm, Cornwall Monthly River Cottage-style, wood-grilled feasting. nancarrowfarm.co.uk

4 5

The Crabtree, Sussex Pub with sharp food and rural views. crabtreesussex.co.uk The Kitchen Garden, Pembrokeshire A special summer-only dining room that spills out into a secret garden. llysmeddyg.com

6

Burnt Truffle, Cheshire Overachieving ‘bistro’ with, when the sun appears over the Wirral (it does happen), a busy terrace. burnttruffle.net

7

Read’s, Kent Michelinstarred fine dining in a Georgian manor house whose grounds include a walled kitchen garden. reads.com

8

Wyken Cafe, Suffolk Cut-above café food from eggs Benedict to steak sandwiches at Wyken vineyard (famous for its dry, white Bacchus). wykenvineyards.co.uk

alongside local craft ales and natural wines. Try Ampeleia’s Tuscan red, Unlitro (mains from £12.50; theculpeper.com). FIVE-STAR STREET FOOD IN BRISTOL London aside, Bristol is probably the only UK city where street food is an everyday activity. In stellar sandwich van Pickle (picklebristol.co.uk) or those vendors clustered in St Nicholas Market (try BBQ pit bosses Grillstock and Levantine wrap stars, Eat A Pitta; stnicholasmarketbristol.co.uk), the city has an unusually high number of permanent street food outlets. Simultaneously, numerous weekly markets – Wine Street (Tuesdays and Fridays), Temple Quay and Finzels Reach (casusevents.co.uk) and the Tobacco Factory (tobaccofactory.com) – support many more top-notch traders. From the wellestablished Bagel Boy to Pickled Brisket (now open at the food-fabulous shipping container development Cargo), many of Bristol’s traders graduate to fixed sites relatively quickly, too. ‘Bristol is a fantastic incubator,’ says Ah-Ma’s Anita Cheung, whose dumplings are in demand (ahmasdumplings.com): ‘There’s a receptive audience, the South West has excellent produce and property developers are realising the opportunities that supporting small independents can bring.’

AUGUST 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 73

opinion

7

1

Harry’s Shack, Northern Ireland Portstewart beach stunner. Food overseen by Derek Creagh, ex-Fat Duck/ Chez Bruce. @Harrys_Shack

OF BRITAIN’S HOTTEST COASTAL SPOTS

2 3 The Fish Shed, Devon True, it’s slightly set back from Exe estuary in Topsham but, arguably, Britain’s best chippy. darts farm.co.uk

Crab Hut, Norfolk Day-boat fresh crab and lobster baguettes, seasonally on Brancaster Staithes’ harbour. letzersseafood. co.uk

4

West Mersea Oyster Bar, Essex Eat Colchester Natives by the marshy Mersea Island waters in which they thrive. westmersea oysterbar.co.uk

5

Wheeler’s Crab Shed, Isle of Wight Seasonal Steephill Cove café famous for crab pasties and lobster salads. facebook.com/ crabshed

Where’s your favourite place to eat and drink outside? Share yours at #bbcgfopinion

74 bbcgoodfood.com AUGUST 2017

BEACH BITES IN BRIGHTON The Kings Road arches that run alongside Brighton’s promenade are home to a clutch of great beachside restaurants. This summer’s big opening is Murmur, a casual sequel to chef Michael Bremner’s acclaimed 64 Degrees. Similarly laidback, Lucky Beach (from £8.50; luckybeach.co.uk), is an arch café with a surf-y vibe that serves terrific organic, grass-fed burgers topped with novel additions such as chicken-fat fried onions, sambal or burnt green chilli butter. Alternatively, stroll down to Riddle & Finns for spanking seafood and ocean views (mains from £14.50; riddleandfinns.co.uk).

6

Seafood Temple, South Shields A new seafront restaurant, cocktail and oyster bar from legendary chip shop Colman’s. colmansfish andchips.co.uk

7

Rocksalt, Kent Mark Sargeant’s sleek restaurant. The terrace, which overhangs Folkestone harbour, is a doozy. rocksalt folkestone.co.uk

XAVIER D BUENDIA, DANIEL MORGAN, PAUL FREEMAN

BRILLIANT BEER GARDENS IN GLASGOW There are a ridiculous number of memorable open-air drinking spots in Glasgow. For instance, the garden at Brel Bar is unexpectedly cute (brelbar.com); West has palatial splendour to spare (westonthegreen.com); and the Ubiquitous Chip’s wee rooftop sits above that iconic restaurant

(ubiquitouschip.co.uk). But for craft beer lovers in particular, Drygate is a must-visit. More stylish than it first appears, this bar, restaurant and micro-brewery has an unapologetically industrial vibe thanks to its location within Tennent’s huge Wellpark brewery site.What it lacks in soft edges, it makes up for in staggeringly good beer. 26 taps and 200 bottles cover all bases (try Drygate’s Seven Peaks mosaic hop IPA), while the kitchen delivers upscale burgers, 60-day aged featherblade steaks with roasted bone marrow and luxe sides such as a crayfish and chorizo mac ’n’ cheese (mains from £8.95; drygate.com).

Photographs GETTY IMAGES, TOM JOY, ROSS TALLING,

ESCAPE THE CITY IN OXFORD On blisteringly hot days, escaping central Oxford’s traffic and tourists can become an urgent necessity. Luckily, you do not have to travel far for tranquillity. On the edge of town, Cherwell Boathouse (mains from £17.75; cherwell boathouse.co.uk), is, perhaps, the only restaurant in Britain where you can hire a punt after a classy lunch on its riverside terrace. Further afield but equally unique is the sculpture garden at the The Sir Charles Napier (mains from £19.50; sircharlesnapier.co.uk), a polished Michelin-starred pub in the Chiltern Hills. At The White Hart near Abingdon (mains from £16; whitehart-fyfield.com), chef-owner Mark Chandler uses his kitchen-garden to bring a vivid edge to sophisticated dishes such as roasted halibut with clam croquettes, braised Little Gem & tartare butter sauce. In summer, dining spills out onto a terrace lush with greenery.

Rocksalt in Kent

COOKING DEMOS

STREET FOOD

MASTERCLASSES

CR AFT BEERS SUPPER CLUB

WINE TASTING FOOD HISTORY SKILLS SCHOOL

POP UP RESTAURANTS & BARS

TOM KERRIDGE

TASTING

ARTISAN SHOPPING

MICHEL ROUX JR

JOHN TORODE

KIDS ENTERTAINMENT

LIVE MUSIC

Indulgent food and drink festivals in iconic settings Hampton Court Palace Bank Holiday Weekend 26 - 28 August

The Tower of London Moat 22 - 24 September

bbcgoodfoodshow.com | 0844 581 1368 Not all celebrities appear at all Shows or on all days. The Good Food word mark and logo are trademarks of the BBC. ©BBC. Organised and presented by River Street Events.

Hampton Court Palace 26-28 August

Family fun

There’s plenty of great entertainment for the whole family – from face-painting to the circus school plus a range of sports sessions, Tudor cookery and more.

A summer celebration of food and drink Hampton Court Festival returns this month

J

oin us for a food-filled August Bank Holiday weekend as BBC Good Food’s Feast comes to Hampton Court Palace. See our inspiring line-up of chefs and experts cooking LIVE in the Feast Kitchen

including world class-chef Michel Roux Jr and his daughter Emily Roux, festival favourites John Torode and Lisa Faulkner, plus the entertaining Antonio Carluccio joins the line-up

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for the first time. Discover artisan producers, great shopping, street food, pop-up bars, live music and fantastic kids entertainment, all set within the stunning palace gardens.

Steak Workshop

Let’s Talk About Food Hear more from the experts and get your culinary questions answered on the brand new Let’s Talk About Food stage.

The Classroom

Get involved in hands-on masterclasses, from flower arranging to drinks tasting with The Rolling Drinks Trolley.

Explore the palace

Explore Henry VIII’s former home as every ticket includes free entry to Hampton Court Palace too.

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Skills Workshops

Join cuisine and patisserie sessions with Le Cordon Bleu, steak workshops with Ginger Pig and The Jones Family Project, or drink tastings with The Rolling Drinks Trolley.

London’s newest food festival

A food lover’s experience in the heart of the capital

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EW for 2017, see the famous dry moat at the Tower of London transformed into a food and drink experience like no other as BBC Good Food’s Feast heads to the heart of the capital.

Michelin masters Tom Kerridge and Michel Roux Jr will be cooking LIVE in the Feast Kitchen alongside a stellar line-up of chefs and experts including John Torode, Jose Pizzaro, Ben Tish,

Yotam Ottolenghi and Chantelle Nicolson with Marcus Wareing. Experience the city’s best street food, bars and pop-up restaurants, plus enjoy live music and entertainment in this iconic London setting.

Pop-up restaurants

Taste your way around the capital’s culinary scene and sample dishes from Pop-Ups of London’s on-trend restaurants.

BBC Good Food Stage

Take a seat and be inspired by the best in the business in live interviews and demos on the BBC Good Food Stage.

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Find out more about our popular VIP package and enjoy front block Feast Kitchen seats, unlimited fizz and more!

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opinion

Tony Naylor eats at

Skosh

Elegant comfort food and superlative service make this a dining experience not to be missed in York @naylor-tony

Photographs KAREN TURNER, VICTORIA HARLEY

T

hree memorable things occurred at Skosh before I had eaten my first mouthful. Firstly, I was taken with the manager’s easy, ironic riffing on the awkwardness of taking someone’s coat. ‘The very thing that should be hospitable suddenly makes you feel rushed,’ he smiled, as Mrs N tangled herself up in her jacket like Frank Spencer. Then, after placing an emergency toastie order to placate a small child (my own, I should add), the same bloke returned, unprompted, with ketchup for Naylor 2.0. Call me a bad parent, but that’s what I call service. Finally, when the waitress came to take our order she reassured us that – HALLELUJAH! – Skosh’s globetrotting small plates would arrive not, as is common, in one overwhelming, speed-eating splurge, but sensibly staggered. The cold dishes came first, hot ones in the next wave. We added others ad hoc. Memo to all restaurants: this is how you do small plates. Evidently this is a restaurant where the small details really do matter. I was immediately at ease in this modest room (all chic greys and mustard yellows), which exudes a relaxed self-confidence. As I passed the kitchen, I heard a chef almost sigh, ‘oh, that’s gorgeous,’ presumably about a colleague’s plating. It makes Gordon Ramsay’s kitchen tantrums look ridiculous. Here is the future of pro kitchens: enthusiastic, calm, supportive, cerebral. Well, bar one dud. I was drooling at the prospect of Skosh’s cheese toastie made with the raw-milk, brie-style Baron Bigod and grated truffle. It was messy to eat and the pickled turnip and mustard sauce were weak counterpoints to its voluminously earthy flavours. It was heavy-going, where, otherwise, Neil Bentinck’s food is balletic in its light-stepping precision. Unusually, he is a chef who can deploy the zingy ingredients of Thai cooking (he has worked in East Asian-influenced Australian kitchens), as deftly as the classical techniques he honed at Michelinstarred gaffs such as Northcote. Not to mention the Indian flavours inherited from his dad. And all without this volatile mix boiling over. Each dish has its own rigorous internal logic. Thai-inspired lettuce cups of plump, painstakingly seasoned cured sea trout come, amid bursts of lime and fish sauce, intriguingly laced with faint aniseed notes. Bentinck’s ‘hen’s egg’ – Dale End cheddar velouté, set yolk, PX sherry gel, mushroom duxelle, fragments of browned cheese-on-toast – is a paramolecular masterpiece. Beautifully charred Galician octopus disarms even Mrs N (‘Octopus? It’s just a



Where 98 Micklegate, York YO1 6JX 01904 634849 skoshyork.co.uk Cost Dinner for two around £100 Best dish ‘Hen’s egg’ with Dale End cheddar, mushroom & PX sherry VERDICT Ace. Delivers some real ‘Oh my Skosh!’ moments

rubbery delivery vehicle for other, better flavours.’), with its weird-but-it-works garnishes of jammy black olive caramel and pickled artichokes. Likewise, a stark white plate of raw turbot with delicate white soy and fermented turnip is clean, fresh, persuasively different. In contrast, with its rich, borderline cheesy brown butter hollandaise, Skosh’s fried chicken is pure filth. And a crispy lamb dish unfolds like a gripping TV drama. Each new character – charred hispi, sumac yoghurt, pickled onions – brings a different dimension to this story. Bentinck’s dishes are clever, daring even, yet utterly unpretentious in their delivery of big, compelling flavours. He is a very bright talent. I didn’t touch that ketchup once. Honest. Tony Naylor, who lives in Manchester, writes regularly for Restaurant magazine and The Guardian.

next month

Cargo Cantina, Bristol

AUGUST 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 79

opinion

Joanna Blythman

Stop giving children choices at mealtimes

Don’t let stress rule the dinner table – call time on picky eaters

Portrait ALAN PEEBLES | Photographs DAVID COTSWORTH

@joannablythman

’m exasperated with the increasingly uncontested notion that feeding children is difficult. While in mainland Europe people seem to feed their children effortlessly, the UK seems to be a nation of ‘picky eaters’. Scientific explanations are advanced for this phenomenon, positing everything from a genetic predisposition to dislike certain tastes and textures to an imbalance in gut bacteria. A procession of plausible expert commentators offer ‘solutions’: blind tasting sessions in schools, turning mealtimes into games and sensory food workshops. Most worryingly, narratives on feeding children often segue into the territory of eating disorders. We’ve even coined terms for this: ‘restrictive food intake disorder’ and ‘selective eating disorder’. So a parent who says to a child, ‘Try another spoonful’, fears creating a junior anorexic or bulimic. Bottom line? British households are primed to expect stress around the dinner table from day one. How did we arrive at this point? My children are grown-up now. They eat a healthy, wide range of food, and cook well from scratch. I actually found feeding them quite easy. I followed a conscious strategy though, nothing to do with science, just simple common sense. We only ever had one

category of food in our house: good quality, varied, largely unprocessed food that everyone ate. I never caved in to the idea that children needed to be fed distinctive ‘kiddie’ dishes. I never forced my kids to eat anything but equally they knew that they wouldn’t be offered any alternative. Guess what? They learned to like the same foods as we adults. Apart from anything else, I’m only prepared to cook one meal, and I expect everyone to eat most of it. In the UK this same-food-for-all policy sounds extreme, but it’s the norm in most countries. You won’t see Italian, Spanish or Turkish kids eating chicken nuggets and microwave pizza while everyone else eats risotto, paella or pilaf. In Britain, there’s an assumption that children naturally go for sweet,

In Britain, there’s an assumption that children naturally go for sweet, bland flavours

bland flavours, but food habits are culturally shaped, not universally set. Around the world children eat all manner of ingredients from salty seaweed to sour sumac, but in the UK, we falsely stereotype children as food conservatives. I also decided not to have food or drink in the house that I didn’t want my children to consume. You’re kidding yourself if you think that you can keep a stash of crisps and sweets as a restricted ‘treat’ for kids after they’ve eaten the healthy stuff. You don’t need to be a psychologist to see the warped message this sends to kids: real food is a penance, junk is a reward. When they argued: ‘Everyone else gets to eat X’, I responded, ‘Tough’. They soon got the message. Crucially, we sat down with the children for meals. Children learn civilised eating habits by participating with adults. Communal meals are the best food education opportunity any family has. The novelty of eating iced gems and Pringles outside the home wore off quickly. Instead they’d come in the door asking, ‘What’s for tea?’, hungry and looking forward to a decent meal. Good Food contributing editor Joanna is an award-winning journalist who has written about food for 25 years. She is also a regular contributor to BBC Radio 4.

HAPPY EATERS Keep offering children ingredients they initially reject; they’ll get to like them in one form or another eventually.

Only feed kids food and drink that you’d be happy to consume yourself.

Make kids’ default drink water; sweet drinks distort their palate for real food.

Involve your kids in cooking as soon as they can hold a spoon.

Do you agree with Joanna? Let us know on Facebook and Twitter #bbcgfopinion

next month

Joanna calls for supermarkets to celebrate British produce

AUGUST 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 81

How we eat now

Eat-along-a-movie TV dinners are so last century! Now you can enjoy a Hollywood blockbuster and tuck into the on-screen fare while you’re watching, Emma Freud reveals

I

’ve been working in film production for most of my adult life, but it’s only recently I’ve begun to actually consume the movies. The first time was an eat-along screening of Mamma Mia four years ago in a village hall. Dressed in Meryl Streep-style dungarees, teamed with lurex platform boots (classic pairing), I was given a small tray containing a variety of Greek food, each item relevant to a different moment in the film. When Stellan Skarsgård tucked into his lamb kufti, so did the audience. When Pierce Brosnan sang SOS, we ate a slice of ham. And when Colin Firth downed a shot of ouzo, we kept him company. In hindsight, possibly a little too much company. You need know no more than that the screening was the last eat-along-a-movie allowed in that particular establishment. Despite the regrettable fallout, it was a magnificent 4D experience, and one which is becoming increasingly popular… Edible Cinema pairs great movies with imaginative food, and gave out vials of ‘poison’ (a gin & absinthe cocktail) to be downed during the climax of Bazz Luhrmann’s Romeo and Juliet. Secret Cinema served up gourmet prison slop to overjoyed customers just before their screening of Shawshank Redemption, and offered bratwurst and saurkraut as an appetite whetter for The Grand Budapest Hotel. Might sound unappetising, but it didn’t stop 100,000 people attending their events last year. Theoretically, the combination works because the visual delights of cinema and the tangible pleasures of eating offer different types of a similar collective experience: the joys of film are visual, while the joys of food are palpable. And unlike the highbrow world of theatre or art, where the presence of food is considered inappropriate, you can do what you like when you’re watching a film. Even themed dinners with TV movie nights work well… there’s a real joy in settling down for a curry with Slumdog Millionaire, a Paella with Vicky Christina Barcelona, or a cheeseburger and milkshake with Pulp Fiction. The new series of Orange Is the New Black is crying out for a TV dinner of carrot soup with roasted squash, and every episode of The Crown’s second season should be paired with cucumber sandwiches and dainty scones. I once served a medieval feast of quail and partridge to accompany the gothic TV drama Gormenghast and earlier this year, my children held a party to watch Red Nose Day and only served red food; the kitchen looked like a crime scene for days.

82 bbcgoodfood.com AUGUST 2017

I once hosted a Eurovision Song Contest party, where we attempted to serve a food from each country as that country was performing their song – the food was great, though the show’s performance order was clearly not geared to a culinary logic. It began with some Belgian chocolates, followed by a Swedish meatball, then Germany’s black forest gateau came just before the Italian salami, Swiss chocolate and Greek hummus. The UK provided the bread, and Ireland was butter, but sadly they never met in the running order. In desperation we resorted to a shot of vodka for each of the soviet countries. Who knew there were so many? Last month I booked a table at Parlour restaurant in Kensal Green for an edible screening of Notting Hill – a film on which I had worked as script editor. Described as ‘a new way to watch what you eat’, the themed dinner was served in five courses while the film was projected onto the end wall of the dining room. As Tim McInnerny burnt the guinea fowl for Hugh Grant, we ate its perfectly cooked great-grandchild. While Julia Roberts was offered ‘the last brownie’, so were we. And if you’ve seen the film, you may remember the part where the character of Spike is found tucking into some yogurt. ‘This yogurt tastes funny,’ he says halfway through the pot. ‘That’s because it’s mayonnaise,’ says Hugh Grant. At this moment, it transpired the large spoonful of yogurt I had just put into my mouth had been made by Mr Hellman. We should definitely have cut that line. And later this year, we’re attending a drink-along screening of Withnail and I at a Suffolk festival – a movie where the protagonist gets through nine glasses of wine, six glasses of sherry, 13 whiskys, a pint of cider and a shot of lighter fluid during the course of the 94-minute masterpiece. At this screening, the audience will attempt to drink everything Withnail drinks, though in smaller quantities (and substituting the lighter fluid for vinegar, as Richard E Grant also did during filming). The effect should be irresponsibly funny and at the same time a really bad idea – which should also please the film buffs, because that’s exactly the point the film was making too.

&

Good Food contributing editor Emma Freud is a journalist and broadcaster, director of Red Nose Day and a co-presenter of Radio Four’s Loose Ends.

Portrait DAVID COTSWORTH | Photograph EMMA BOYNS | Food stylist SOPHIE GODWIN

@emmafreud

opinion

The perfect croque monsieur

If you haven’t seen It’s Complicated, put this magazine down right now and watch it - it’s really great. Welcome back. As you know, the scene where Meryl Streep cooks a croque monsieur for Steve Martin is a perfect storm of food and cinema. As you also know, a perfect croque monsieur is surprisingly hard to achieve: it’s not just a regular toastie – every element needs to be perfect. But once truly mastered, it is the greatest sandwich in the world. SERVES 2 PREP 20 mins COOK 30 mins MORE EFFORT

For the sandwich 4 slices from a white sourdough or crusty white 20g butter, melted 1 tsp Dijon mustard 100g grated gruyère 4 thin slices of great smoked ham For the béchamel sauce 125ml milk 125ml cream 1 garlic clove, crushed 2 bay leaves 1 small onion, chopped 20g butter 20g plain flour 1 heaped tsp Dijon mustard fresh nutmeg, grated For the mustard mayo 1 tsp Dijon mustard 1 tbsp mayonnaise

1 First, make a perfect béchamel sauce. Put the milk, cream, garlic, bay leaves and onion in a small pan over a medium heat and stir together. Heat until nearly boiling, then turn the heat off and leave for 10 mins to infuse. Pass the liquid through a sieve and discard the bay and onion. 2 Melt the butter with the flour in another pan and cook over a gentle heat until it smells biscuity. Gradually whisk in the warm milk and bring to a gentle boil, stirring regularly, then add the Dijon mustard, a little grating of fresh nutmeg and some seasoning. It should be a lovely thick creamy sauce with a deep flavour. 3 Brush the slices of bread with melted butter. Place them on a baking tray and toast one side under a grill, buttered-side up, until golden. Take them out and heat oven to 220C/200C fan/gas 7. 4 Turn the bread over and spread each slice with a thin layer of Dijon, followed by a layer of the béchamel. Cover the sauce with grated gruyère, and then a slice of ham. Form the slices into two sandwiches, spread a thin layer of the sauce over the top slice and sprinkle more gruyère on top. Put the sandwiches in the oven and bake for 10-15 mins or until golden. Mix the mustard and mayo together and serve alongside. Channel your inner Meryl Streep and relish every mouthful. GOOD TO KNOW calcium PER SERVING 876 kcals • fat 62g • saturates 31g • carbs 46g • sugars 6g • fibre 2g • protein 31g • salt 3.7g

tip

You’ll only use half the béchamel sauce – use the rest to make welsh rarebit.

Channel your inner Meryl Streep and relish every mouthful

AUGUST 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 83

Ben Fogle’s

food milestones

The broadcaster, author and adventurer shares his fond memories of Doll noodle sandwiches and needing 10,000 calories a day interview by ROSANNA GREENSTREET

My first food memory was when I was six. I was obsessed

with banana sandwiches: banana sliced and stuck between two slices of brown bread, no butter. I specifically remember eating carefully stacked sandwiches off a little paper plate in a tree house in Canada. My paternal grandparents lived in Ontario so we went out for eight weeks every summer, and a big part of my childhood was spent on the shores of a lake where my grandfather had built a cottage.

Doll noodle sandwiches are what I remember most from school meals. Doll noodles came

in a hard block with a sachet of seasoning. If you had a kettle you could make them in two seconds, so even a 15-year-old boy who didn’t have a clue how to cook could do it. I went to Bryanston in Dorset and the catering was amazing, but I was a typical growing boy with a massive appetite and starving the whole time. Doll

84 bbcgoodfood.com AUGUST 2017

noodle sandwiches were what we’d make between meals. We would wedge the noodles into a cup, pour on boiling water and then, having drained off as much of the liquid as possible, eat between two slices of bread.

My mum used to do the most amazing spaghetti Bolognese.

She would let it stew for a long time and it would sit, bubbling away. We lived above my dad’s veterinary clinic and to get to our house, you had to walk through reception and past Dad’s consulting room. An abiding memory is coming in to animal smells and then the distinct smell of Mum’s spaghetti Bolognese which was, and still is, one of my favourites.

The first meal I ever made for Marina was from a recipe given to me by my great friend Kate Humble. It was salmon and salad.

I poached the salmon and cut the salad. Although I love food, I’m not a good cook. Marina has never really let me cook since, so I don’t think it was particularly memorable for her!

When James Cracknell and I were rowing across the Atlantic, we ate rehydrated food that comes in a sachet.

When you’re using up nearly 10,000 calories a day you’re just concerned about getting enough food, you don’t really care about taste. We took along a couple of bags of army-ration stew that we saved for Christmas Day and they tasted delicious.

When my wife has gone out with friends or is working late, I have been known to make myself up an expedition meal at home through laziness and, out of context, they taste like dog food.

On expeditions I crave comfort food like cottage pie and hamburger and chips.

I’m often filming in countries where there is amazing food, in India, Sri Lanka and Guatemala. When I go to a restaurant I always order whatever is local. If I’m near the sea, I only ever order seafood. If I’m out in London, I like to have something that we can’t or don’t make at home, such as Indian or Ethiopian food. I will tend to go for whatever the restaurant recommends rather than just my favourites.

The current household favourite is chicken soup,

and we often have chicken in salads and with pasta.

My dream breakfast is a slice of toast with butter and honey. I’ve been keeping bees for

about eight months and I’m hoping they are going to thank me for my careful management with a bumper harvest. We live between London and a little cottage near Henley where I keep the bees. I’d like chickens, too, as soon as we move out of London. Then I can have freshly laid eggs for breakfast.

I last cooked a few nights ago.

Marina does antenatal classes, so I’m often home alone in the evenings. I did some fresh pasta – I didn’t make it myself, I’m afraid – with mozzarella, pesto sauce, cherry tomatoes and some basil and chilli.

My last supper would be…

a massive plate of Mum’s spaghetti Bolognese with lots of parmesan. @Benfogle

&

Animal Park Summer Special is on this month, weekdays at 9.15am on BBC One

Photograph FRANCESO GUIDICINI/CAMERA PRESS LONDON

B

en Fogle, 43, found fame in 2000 after he took part in the BBC reality show Castaway. Since then he has presented programmes including Crufts, Extreme Dreams and the award-winning Through Hell and High Water. In 2005 he rowed across the Atlantic Ocean with the Olympian James Cracknell in 49 days, setting the British pairs record. Ben took part in a race, on foot, in Antarctica to get to the South Pole in 2009, and in 2013 he and James crossed the Empty Quarter in the Arabian Peninsula on camels. Ben’s bestselling books include The Crossing and Race to the Pole. He lives in London with his wife Marina and their children Ludo, seven, and Iona, six.

opinion

When my wife has gone out, I’ve been known to make myself up an expedition meal. Out of context, they taste like dog food

AUGUST 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 85

Passing the

taste test

You might think your cat is a fussy eater, but it turns out he’s just looking for different qualities in his food. Use these tips to ensure he never turns his nose up again very cat owner knows the feeling of having their furry friend turn their back on a lovingly prepared meal. It can be frustrating, but it’s easy to find out where you’re going wrong – and what your cat is actually looking for. The first thing to understand is the difference between how humans and cats assess their meals. When we’re served dinner, we tend to judge it primarily on its look and taste. Cats assess their food differently. For them, smell is generally the most important element, followed by texture and a nutrient profile that will help them feel full after eating. All this means humans are often pretty terrible at judging what their feline companions will enjoy. Thankfully, Royal Canin has done the hard work for you by developing a range of foods that are guaranteed winners. In fact, Royal Canin is so confident your cat will enjoy its food, it’s offering a 100% palatability guarantee – if your cat doesn’t

E

love every single mouthful, you can have your money back *.

Nutritionally balanced That’s not the only thing that makes Royal Canin’s food special. It has a team of nutritionists, who work closely with vets, pet owners and breeders, to produce foods that are precisely tailored to the needs of different ages and breeds of cat. That means you can feel confident that you’re giving your companion the perfect food to support their health, whether you have a British Shorthair, a Persian or almost any other breed. Royal Canin also offers specific foods for kittens and older cats, and for cats with specific dietary requirements. So, not only are you saving money by only buying food your cat will love, you’re also helping them to maintain a healthy lifestyle. You can find Royal Canin at specialist stores, pet shops and vets. Try it today and see how much your cat loves it.

Royal Canin’s Exigent Range for Fussy Cats

Cats can sometimes be considered fussy, but that’s often down to their own unique preferences. Some are attracted to the aromatic profile of a food, while others look for a texture they enjoy or a nutrient profile that helps them to feel more full after eating. This is why Royal Canin has created a range of foods for fussy cats based on these specific requirements. The Royal Canin Exigent range consists of Aroma Exigent, for cats who are most attracted by the aromatic profile of a food, Savour Exigent, for cats who are most attracted by the texture and diversity in the food bowl, and Protein Exigent, for cats who are most attracted by high dietary protein levels. Find out more about the full range at royalcanin.co.uk.

* Visit royalcanin.co.uk/terms/palatability-guarantee/ for full terms and conditions.

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health Quick tips and deliciously simple recipes to help you live better this summer

l o n w to i a r T t a f n r bu

Photographs ISTOCK, GETTY IMAGES

Exercising before breakfast can help you burn fat more effectively. ‘Training low’ means working out when your muscle stores of glycogen (glucose) are low, which encourages the body to tap into fat stores for energy. Research has also shown that exercising twice a day or

following a low-carb diet will have a similar effect. This technique increases strain on muscles and reduces the training quality of harder sessions, so ask your GP if ‘training low’ is right for you. Discover more at bbcgoodfood.com/ sports-nutrition-worth-trying

Hot hack

Combining high GI foods (foods that affect your blood sugar quickly) with foods high in fibre, protein and fat helps to slow the release of sugars into the bloodstream. So next time you eat a hunk of watermelon, enjoy alongside a portion of almonds.

Brilliant beetroot

Add some serious nutrition credentials to your salad with this vibrant root veg 1 Betalaines give beetroot its deep purple colour and antioxidant properties 2 Nitrate-rich beetroot juice has been linked to lower blood pressure and improved athletic performance 3 One study has suggested beetroot juice may improve blood flow to the brain 4 Good source of folate, iron, manganese and potassium Discover more at bbcgoodfood.com/ purple-foods

HAPPY EATING Dietician Emer Delaney explains how food can alter your mood

Dopamine is a neurotransmitter that affects the reward centres in the brain and can make us feel happy. All eating increases dopamine – especially when we have high-fat, sugary snacks. To boost dopamine in a healthy way, research suggests that we should choose high-protein ingredients including eggs, lean meats and dairy. Discover more at bbcgoodfood.com/dopamine-diet

AUGUST 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 89

Healthy inspiration Give your repertoire a shake up this summer with these special dishes inspired by exotic destinations… recipe SARA BUENFELD photographs WILL HEAP

Egyptian egg salad LOW CALORIE

FOLATE

3 OF 5-A-DAY

This is loosely based on an Egyptian breakfast dish called ful medames. The beans traditionally used are fava beans, which are dried broad beans. Not many supermarkets sell them, so we’ve used borlotti beans instead. You could add a handful of black olives to the salad, too, but not many as they’re high in salt. SERVES 2 PREP 10 mins COOK 5 mins EASY V

2 large eggs 1 lemon, juiced 1 tbsp tahini 1 tbsp rapeseed oil 1 red onion, chopped 3 large garlic cloves, finely chopped 1 tsp ground cumin ½ tsp cumin seeds 400g can borlotti or fava beans, juice reserved

2 Little Gem lettuces, cut into wedges 2 tomatoes, cut into wedges sprinkling of dried chilli flakes and roughly chopped flat-leaf parsley, optional

1 Bring a pan of water to the boil, lower in the eggs and boil for 8 mins. Drain and run under the cold tap to cool them a little, then peel and halve. Meanwhile, mix 1 tbsp lemon juice and 3 tbsp water with the tahini to make a dressing. 2 Heat the oil and fry the onion and garlic for 5 mins to soften them. Add the ground cumin and seeds, stir briefly then add the beans and lightly crush some of them as you heat them, adding some of the juice from the can to get a nice creamy consistency but keeping whole beans, too. Taste and add lemon juice and just a little seasoning if you need to. 3 Spoon the beans on to plates with the lettuce, then add the eggs and tomatoes, with the tahini dressing, chilli and parsley, if using. GOOD TO KNOW healthy • low cal • low fat • folate • fibre • 3 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING 260 kcals • fat 12g • saturates 2g • carbs 17g • sugars 7g • fibre 10g • protein 16g • salt 0.3g

If you prefer your eggs hard-boiled, cook for an extra 2 mins 90 bbcgoodfood.com AUGUST 2017

health

Healthy Turkish meatloaf 5 OF 5-A-DAY

HIGH FIBRE

VIT C

This is really quick to mix, but it does take a bit of time in the oven, so leave it to bake while you get on with other things. Perfect for a picnic, packed up for lunch or for a summery dinner alongside one of our delicious healthy salads. SERVES 6 PREP 15 mins COOK 1 ½ hours EASY G

a little rapeseed oil for the tin 1 onion, finely chopped 1 large aubergine, cut into slices lengthways then finely diced (about 320g) 250g pouch cooked brown rice 3 tbsp tomato purée 1 tsp vegetable bouillon powder 1 /2 pack dill, chopped, plus extra to serve (optional) 2 tsp each ground cinnamon and allspice 250g lamb mince (10% fat) 2 large eggs 227g can chopped tomatoes

For the salad 1 pack of three peppers, deseeded and roughly chopped 2 large courgettes (about 500g), halved and sliced 2 large red onions, sliced 1 tbsp rapeseed oil 1 tbsp cider vinegar 1 garlic clove, finely grated handful chopped mint

1 Heat oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4. Line a 900g loaf tin with baking parchment and lightly oil it. 2 Put the onion and aubergine in a large bowl with the rice, tomato purée, bouillon, dill, spices and lamb. Mix and squash together with your hands then add the egg and mix again. Tip the can of tomatoes into the base of the loaf tin then pack the mince mixture on top and press down lightly to compact it. Cover the tin with foil and bake in the oven for 1 hr 40 mins, taking off the foil for the last 15 mins. 3 Once the meatloaf has been cooking for 1 hr, tip the peppers, courgettes and red onion into a roasting tin and toss with the oil. Roast in the oven with the meatloaf for 40 mins until the vegetables are tender and a little charred. 4 Take the meatloaf and roasted veg from the oven, leave the loaf to settle for 5 mins, then tip out onto a platter or board, remove the baking parchment and scatter with dill if using. Toss the roasted veg with the vinegar, garlic and mint and serve them with the meat loaf. GOOD TO KNOW healthy • low cal • low fat • 5 of 5-a-day • folate • fibre • vit c PER SERVING 291 kcals • fat 10g • saturates 3g • carbs 27g • sugars 14g • fibre 9g • protein 19g • salt 0.4g

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Food stylist SARA BUENFELD | Stylist FAYE WEARS

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AUGUST 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 91

Fresh salmon with Thai noodle salad OMEGA 3

2 OF 5-A-DAY

GLUTEN FREE

This is just as nice served cold as it is warm. The balance of protein and carbs makes this salad super satisfying, and it can be prepped and cooked in just 20 minutes for a quick midweek dinner. SERVES 2 PREP 15 mins COOK 5 mins EASY

2 skinless salmon fillets 1 large orange, the juice and zest of half, the rest peeled and chopped 125g French beans, trimmed and halved 50g mange tout, shredded 75g frozen peas 75g vermicelli rice noodles 2 tsp red curry paste 1 tsp fish sauce 3 spring onions, finely chopped half a pack basil or coriander, chopped

Swap leftover chicken for the salmon, tossed into the noodles

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1 Put a pan of water on to boil. Line a steamer with baking parchment, add the salmon fillets and scatter with a little of the orange zest. When the water is boiling, add the beans to the pan, put the salmon in the steamer on top and cook for 5 mins. Take the salmon off, and if it is cooked, set aside but add the peas and mange tout to the pan and cook for 1 min more, or if not quite cooked leave on top for the extra min. Drain the veg, but return the boiling water to the pan, add the noodles and leave to soak for 5 mins. 2 Put the curry paste and fish sauce in a salad bowl with the orange juice and a little of the remaining zest and the spring onions. Drain the noodles when they are ready and add to the salad bowl, toss well, then add the chopped orange with the basil or coriander and the cooked vegetables. Tip in the juice from the fish, then toss well and serve in bowls with the salmon on top. GOOD TO KNOW healthy • folate • vit c • fibre • omega-3 • 2 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING 517 kcals • fat 22g • saturates 4g • carbs 39g • sugars 7g • fibre 8g • protein 36g • salt 0.86g

health

Protein packed lunch

healthy diet plan

Packed with omega-3-rich tuna and counting as three of your 5-a-day, these clever wraps with avocado mayo are a great low-carb, high-protein option recipe SARA BUENFELD photograph STUART OVENDEN

Tuna mayo wraps LOW CALORIE

VIT C

GLUTEN FREE

The ‘mayo’ is actually smooth avocado beaten with mustard and vinegar. It makes a fantastic alternative to the real thing in these tasty little wraps that are ideal for a speedy weekend lunch. Fresh tuna contains omega-3, while canned tuna doesn’t, so if you want to substitute a no-cook, cheaper option, go for canned wild salmon. SERVES 2 PREP 15 mins COOK 2 mins EASY

Food stylist SARA BUENFELD | Stylist SARAH BIRKS

2 drops rapeseed oil, for brushing 2 x 140g fresh tuna fillets, defrosted 1 ripe avocado ½ tsp English mustard powder 1 tsp cider vinegar 1 tbsp capers 8 romaine lettuce leaves 16 cherry tomatoes, preferably on the vine, halved

Have you signed up to our healthy diet plan for summer? Find out more at bbcgoodfood.com/dietplan-summer-2017

1 Brush the tuna with a little oil. Heat a non-stick pan, add the tuna and cook for 1 min each side, or a min or so longer for a thicker fillet. Transfer to a plate to rest. 2 Halve and stone the avocado and scoop the flesh into a small bowl. Add the mustard powder and vinegar, then mash well so that the mixture is smooth like mayonnaise. Stir in the capers. Spoon into two small dishes and put on serving plates with the lettuce leaves, and tomatoes. 3 Slice the tuna (it should be slightly pink inside) and arrange on the plates. Spoon some ‘mayo’ on the lettuce leaves and top with tuna and cherry tomatoes and a few extra capers. To eat, roll up into little wraps. GOOD TO KNOW healthy • low cal • vit c • fibre • omega-3 • folate • 3 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING 361 kcals • fat 17g • saturates 3g • carbs 8g • sugars 7g • fibre 8g • protein 40g • salt 0.6g

AUGUST 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 93

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healthy

Joe’s banana bread This month, fitness expert Joe Wicks shares his recipe for a simple bake, perfect for sharing photograph MAJA SMEND

Banana & date cake CALS 282

SAT FAT 6g

SUGAR 22g

We all deserve a treat, but why not make it a little more wholesome? Joe’s banana bread uses wholemeal flour and mostly natural sugars from fruit, so you get one of your five-a-day in the most delicious way possible. SERVES 6-8 PREP 20 mins COOK 1 hr EASY

150g pitted dates, roughly chopped into small pieces 75g butter, cubed 25g light brown soft sugar 3 bananas, peeled and roughly chopped (about 250g) 3 eggs 200g strong wholemeal flour 2 tsp baking powder 1 /4 tsp bicarbonate of soda

1 Heat oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4 and line a 2lb loaf tin with baking parchment. Put the chopped dates, butter, sugar and 75ml boiling water into a heatproof bowl, give the ingredients a little stir and leave them to soak and melt for 5 mins.

2 Tip the contents of the bowl into a food processor and add the banana and eggs. Blitz until the whole lot is smooth, then tip the mixture into a medium mixing bowl. Sift the flour, baking powder and bicarbonate of soda into the mixture, giving it a good beating with a wooden spoon until well combined. Pour the mixture into the loaf tin and bake for 1 hr in the oven. 3 Remove the tin from the oven and leave it to sit for 10 mins before turning out and cutting up. GOOD TO KNOW 1 of 5 a day PER SERVING 282 kcals • fat 10g • saturates 6g • carbs 39g • sugars 22g • fibre 4g • protein 7g • salt 0.63g

Good Food contributing editor Joe Wicks, a fitness coach, is an Instagram phenomenon with 1.9 million followers. His #Leanin15 videos focus on quick, easy cooking. @thebodycoach

&

Recipe from Joe’s book, Cooking for Family & Friends (Bluebird, £20), out now You can sign up for your own bespoke 90-Day Shift, Shape and Sustain plan at thebodycoach. co.uk

AUGUST 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 95

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weekend

Time to cook, relax and entertain with summery, seasonal recipes from the BBC’s star chefs

Tom Kerridge’s lamb shank madras, p102

AUGUST 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 97

Summer TOM KERRIDGE

one-pots

BBC Chef Tom Kerridge leaves all the hard work to the oven with these flavour-packed one-pan dishes, ideal for easy entertaining photographs PETER CASSIDY

Good Food contributing editor Tom Kerridge is a regular BBC presenter and chef-owner of The Hand & Flowers and The Coach – both in Marlow, Buckinghamshire. His latest book, Tom Kerridge’s Dopamine Diet (£20, Absolute Press), is out now. @ChefTomKerridge

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Chicken Provençal with olives and artichokes, p100

weekend

Poached salt beef & new-season roots, p100 AUGUST 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 99

W

e tend to think of one-pots as comforting winter stews, but from the tagines of North Africa to the slow-cooked curries of India, they’re also perfectly suited to hotter climates. The advantage of one-pot cooking, as well as less washing-up, is that it locks in all the flavour and nothing goes to waste. Born of having minimal equipment and space, onepots are the best recipes for easy food for friends – there’s no pan-juggling or last-minute panics. You’re left to enjoy yourself while it cooks and then when it comes to serving, all you have to do is take the pan from the oven to the table.

Poached salt beef & new-season roots

We’ve become much more aware of cheaper cuts, but whole pieces of brined meats like salt beef are still underused and great for feeding a crowd. They add so much flavour to broth-type dishes like this, and any leftovers make amazing New York-style deli sandwiches. SERVES 8 PREP 20 mins COOK 3 hrs MORE EFFORT

1.5 litres chicken stock 4 tbsp English mustard 8 baby heritage carrots, peeled 8 baby turnips, peeled and halved 16 medium salad potatoes, scrubbed 1.5kg piece salt beef 16 French Breakfast radishes, tops left on 16 cocktail or small pickled onions small handful picked dill fronds

1 Heat oven to 160C/140C fan/gas 3. Pour the stock into a flameproof roasting tin or shallow casserole dish, add 3 tbsp mustard and bring to the boil. Turn off the heat, then scatter in all of the vegetables except the radishes and onions. Nestle the beef in the middle, fat-side up. Brush the top of the beef with the remaining mustard, scatter over 1 tsp cracked black pepper, cover with a lid or foil and put in the oven for to braise for 3 hrs, or until the beef is tender. 2 Leave everything to cool a little, then lift the meat from the dish, transfer to a board and carve into thin slices. Stir the onions through the broth with the other vegetables, then divide the braised vegetables between bowls and pour in the mustardy cooking juices. Drape the slices of beef over the top, then poke in some radishes so they’re in amongst it all. Scatter the dill over just before serving. GOOD TO KNOW fibre • iron • 3 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 559 kcals • fat 32g • saturates 13g • carbs 20g • sugars 9g • fibre 8g • protein 44g • salt 2.6g

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Chicken Provençal with olives & artichokes

Southern French summer braises like this are traditionally made with chicken pieces, but you could just as easily keep the chicken whole and carve it at the table. SERVES 5-6 PREP 15 mins plus at least a few hrs marinating COOK 1 hr 40 mins EASY

2.5kg chicken, jointed (ask your butcher to do this) 8 garlic cloves, thinly sliced 200ml white wine 4 tbsp olive oil 1 tsp thyme leaves 10 ripe plum tomatoes, halved 1 tbsp tomato purée ½ tsp herbes de Provence 1 tbsp fennel seeds 500ml chicken stock 1 celery stick, finely diced 15 button or silverskin onions, or small shallots, peeled 285g jar chargrilled artichoke hearts, drained 100g pitted green olives

1 Tip the chicken into a large bowl or dish and add the garlic, wine, 2 tbsp oil and the thyme. Season with 2 tbsp flaky salt and mix well until completely coated. Cover and chill for at least a few hours, but preferably overnight. 2 Heat grill to high. Arrange the plum tomatoes on a tray, cut-side up, drizzle with the remaining 1 tbsp oil and grill for 15 mins, or until charred. Set aside. 3 Heat 1 tbsp oil in a large casserole dish or flameproof roasting tin. Scrape the marinade off the chicken pieces back into the bowl and fry the chicken in batches for about 15 mins until the skin is golden and crisp – watch out, the oil has a tendency to sputter. Remove the chicken from the dish and pour off the oil. Place the dish back on the heat, add the tomato purée and cook for 2 mins, then add the herbs, fennel seeds, remaining marinade and chicken stock. Bring up to the boil, add the grilled tomatoes, then simmer gently for 20 mins. 4 Heat oven to 160C/140C fan/gas 4. Nestle the chicken pieces back into the dish, then stir them in to coat in the sauce. Scatter over the celery, button onions and artichokes. Bring up to a simmer, pop the lid on, then transfer to the oven and cook for 1 hr. Remove the lid and stir in the olives. Season to taste and leave everything to settle for 15 mins before serving straight from the dish. GOOD TO KNOW 2 of 5-a-day PER SERVING (5) 507 kcals • fat 0g • saturates 30g • carbs 7g • sugars 10g • fibre 5g • protein 39g • salt 2.3g

weekend

Spanish rice with squid, prawn & fennel If you can’t find squid ink, turn the rice yellow instead of black with a good pinch of saffron. SERVES 4 PREP 20 mins COOK 45 mins MORE EFFORT

300g cleaned squid (ask your fishmonger to do this for you) 8 large king prawns, head and shell on 5 tbsp olive oil 1 tsp fennel seeds, toasted 1 lemon, juiced and zested 4 garlic cloves, sliced 2 onions, finely chopped 1 fennel bulb, half finely chopped, half finely sliced using a mandoline if you have one, fronds reserved

200g paella or risotto rice 125ml white wine 3 sachets squid ink (available from souschef.co.uk) 500ml chicken or fish stock chopped parsley, to serve

1 Slice the squid into rings and tip into a mixing bowl with the tentacles, prawns, 4 tbsp olive oil, fennel seeds, the lemon juice, half the garlic and some seasoning, then set aside. 2 Heat oven to 190C/170C fan/gas 6. Heat the remaining oil in a shallow, wide ovenproof pan. Fry the onions and chopped fennel for about 10 mins until soft and starting to turn golden, add the remaining garlic and cook for another 5 mins. Scatter in the rice, stir and cook until it just starts to crackle. Pour in the wine, ink and stock and bring up to a simmer, giving everything a gentle stir to incorporate the ink. Stir through most of the sliced squid, keeping a few rings and the tentacles back. 3 Transfer the pan to the oven, cook for 25 mins, then place the prawns and remaining squid on top and drizzle everything with the oil from the marinade. Put back in the oven for another 10 mins or until all the liquid has been absorbed and the rice and seafood are just cooked. Scatter over the sliced fennel and fronds, lemon zest, and the chopped parsley. Place in the middle of the table and let everyone help themselves. GOOD TO KNOW healthy • low cal • 2 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 473kcals • fat 17g • saturates 3g • carbs 49g • sugars 5g • fibre 5g • protein 24g • salt 0.7g

AUGUST 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 101

weekend

Lamb shank madras SERVES 4 PREP 40 mins plus a couple of hrs marinating and resting COOK 4 hrs EASY

1 Tip the yogurt, cumin, turmeric, 1 tsp sea salt and the lamb shanks into a large mixing bowl, then mix to coat the lamb. Cover and pop in the fridge for a couple of hrs, or overnight if you have time. 2 Heat oven to 160C/140C fan/ gas 4. Heat the oil in a large flameproof casserole dish over a medium heat, add the shanks and brown all over for 10 mins, then remove from the dish. Scatter the onions into the dish and fry for 10 mins until golden brown. Stir in the curry powder, garlic and ginger and cook for 3 mins until aromatic. Add the lamb shanks back to the dish along with the tomatoes, chillies, curry leaves, cardamom pods and lime pickle. Give everything a good stir and pour over the stock. Bring up to a simmer, cover, then transfer to the oven and cook for 3 hrs. 3 Remove the lid and cook for 1 hr more – this will help reduce some of the liquid and char any exposed meat. When the lamb is very tender, leave to rest for 30 mins or leave to cool completely and reheat the next day for the best flavour. Can be made up to two days in advance. Scatter with chopped mint and serve with naan bread and rice on the side.

& Tom will be at BBC Good Food’s Feast at the Tower of London (22-24 Sept) and the BBC Good Food Show in Glasgow (20-22 Oct) turn to p121 for details.

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Next month: Tom’s dinner party desserts

GOOD TO KNOW calcium • fibre • iron • 2 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 736 kcals • fat 39g • saturates 13g • carbs 23g • sugars 13g • fibre 9g • protein 69g • salt 0.9g

Food stylist JACK SARGESON | Stylist LUIS PERAL

4 tbsp natural yogurt 1 tbsp ground cumin 1 tsp turmeric 4 lamb shanks 2 tbsp sunflower oil 4 onions, sliced 4 tbsp madras curry powder 8 garlic cloves, grated or crushed thumb-sized piece ginger, grated 220g tin chopped tomatoes 3 whole dried red chillies 5 curry leaves 4 cardamom pods, split 3 tbsp lime pickle 300ml chicken stock chopped mint leaves, naan bread and rice, to serve

EATS OUT bbcgoodfood.com

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e’ve teamed up with Michelin-star chef Shaun Rankin to plan a special tasting menu at his restaurant, Ormer Mayfair. The menu is impeccably paired with wines by the restaurant’s award-winning sommelier, Andreas Rosendal. Bringing the shores of Jersey to the heart of London, Rankin will showcase the very best in seasonal, sustainably sourced and locally foraged produce. What better way to enjoy Rankin’s cooking than in the restaurant’s unique private dining room (seats 20), with its understated glamour and elegant artwork. Starting with an elite tasting by Champagne Devaux, the restaurant’s house Champagne, Rankin will also reveal a few extra surprises to guarantee a truly unforgettable experience showcasing the best of British and Jersey fare. @ShaunRankin @OrmerMayfair

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Moon Street, London W1J 7BH TIME 7pm PRICE £190 per person, £185 for magazine subscribers (see below). Includes a Champagne tasting, seven-course tasting menu with paired wines, plus a goody bag worth £25. BOOK Please call 020 7016 5601.

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AUGUST 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 103

Celebrate summer

with refreshing white wines Cool down in the heat with these top-quality whites. Here, Henry Jeffreys highlights two wines from this month’s whites case and suggests a pairing with recipes from this issue

Wine expert Henry Jeffreys, along with the BBC Good Food team, tasted his way through over 100 wines to choose our Wine Club selection. Henry writes about wine for The Guardian and The Spectator, and on his blog, worldofbooze.wordpress.com. He is also a judge in the Best Drinks Producer category for the BBC Food and Farming Awards. His first book, Empire of Booze, is out now. Find Henry’s tasting notes, including food pairings, for all the selected wines at bbcgoodfood.com/ wine-club.

Le Citronnier 2016

One whiff of this and you will see why it’s called Le Citronnier. It’s positively jam-packed full of the tangiest lemons imaginable. Those crisp flavours come from a blend of Colombard, a traditional Gascon grape, and Sauvignon Blanc. With only 11.5% alcohol it’s the perfect wine to drink alongside tomato salad and quiche Lorraine in the garden. Try it with Rosie Birkett’s heritage tomato salad with ricotta, broad beans & salsa verde on page 18.

Elqui River Sauvignon Blanc 2016 This part of Chile, Elqui River, is really making a name for itself with lean, racy Sauvignon Blancs like this. The climate is arid but quality viticulture is made possible by irrigating with melted snow from the Andes. Try it with the grilled aubergine, watermelon & sesame salad on page 58 – the sharp tang of feta with the zingy flavours of this wine is simply delicious. QFor more details about this month’s cases, visit bbcgoodfoodwineclub.com.

Grilled aubergine, watermelon & sesame salad, p58

Heritage tomato salad with ricotta, broad beans & salsa verde, p18

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Whites case – save over £59

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The first duty of a white wine is to refresh but it should also have that spark that keeps you coming back for another glass – something all of these white wines have in spades. Argentina’s native Torrontes grape is irresistible when it’s as good as the Alma Andina. Both the Grillo from Sicily and the Spotlight Vermentino from Australia have a nutty note on the finish that’s madly moreish. The Le Citronnier from France is packed with citrus flavours while the Moldovan white is floral and spicy. Finally there’s a superfresh Chilean Sauvignon Blanc which is a real crowd-pleaser.

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BBC Good Food Wine Club wines are supplied and delivered by Laithwaite’s. Terms and conditions Introductory offer – new customers (18 years or over) only. One case per household. No further discounts applicable. Free delivery (usually £7.99). Offer ends 31/10/17. Delivery within three working days (except Northern Ireland and the Scottish Highlands). YOUR FUTURE CASES: Every four, eight or 12 weeks, you will be notified of the next wine plan selection, which you will automatically receive unless

you request otherwise. You will be charged the appropriate sum for each delivery. Unless otherwise stated, all wines contain sulphites. Visit bbcgoodfoodwineclub.com for full terms and conditions. Laithwaite’s Wine is part of Direct Wines Ltd. Registered in England and Wales. Registered Number 1095091. One Waterside Drive, Arlington Business Park, Theale, Berkshire RG7 4SW.

AUGUST 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 105

D I A N A H E N RY ’ S S TA R I N G R E D I E N T

Sweet-sour

tamarind

Used in south-east Asian and Indian cooking, and giving Worcestershire sauce its familiar tang, it adds a depth of flavour to these new recipes recipes DIANA HENRY photographs PETER CASSIDY

T

here are two options. One looks like a block of compressed dates, dark brown with a matt surface. The other is almost frightening, like a small sticky fibrous animal, lying in a hunched curve in a plastic bag – my first encounter with tamarind. It’s 1985 and I’m on one of my excursions to stock up on ‘exotic ingredients’. It seems a strange term now (and a strange thing to do). There was no internet so all the foods I needed for dishes from Asia, Africa or the Middle East had to be tracked down. I would set off with a list of addresses, an A-Z of London and a big basket. When I got home I would unwrap packets, sniff the ingredients (dried shrimp paste was the only one that made me recoil) and put everything carefully on the ‘exotic’ shelf in my kitchen. Although I was shopping for it, I had no idea what tamarind was. Charmaine Solomon’s The Complete Asian Cookbook just told me I needed it. Nowadays, tamarind still isn’t regarded as an everyday ingredient but it’s much easier to find (supermarkets even sell own-brand jars of tamarind paste). If you prefer to get your hands dirty, you can still buy it in blocks (it’s just compressed tamarind pulp with the seeds removed). To use it, break off

a nugget, put it in a little boiling water, press with a wooden spoon to help extract the flavour, strain and use. You can even find tamarind in the pods in which it grows – they look like beige knobbly beans – though then you have to deal with the fibres and seeds. Tamarind is a souring agent; you’ll often be told that lemon juice is a substitute, but that’s like saying you can use lime juice instead of pomegranate molasses. Tamarind isn’t just sour; it’s also slightly sweet and definitely fruity. It tastes a little of dates (it’s sometimes called ‘the date of India’ and I’ve also heard it referred to as the love-child of lemon and caramel). Lemon is the ingredient I couldn’t do without. With tamarind you don’t just get sourness but depth as well. It has acidic top notes and lower sweet notes. Like lemon it can ‘lift’ dishes and pull disparate elements together, but it also rounds and softens. If you recognise that cooking is often about the layering of flavour, you’ll understand just how useful tamarind can be. It’s used in the cooking of Latin America and the Caribbean as well as Asia, but I find it useful in dishes from other countries too. Tamarind isn’t just an ‘exotic’ food but an important ingredient in the cook’s toolbox. 

Good Food contributing editor Diana Henry is an award-winning food writer. Every month she creates exclusive recipes using seasonal ingredients. Her tenth book, Simple (£25, Mitchell Beazley), is out now. @DianaHenryFood

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weekend

Rojak, p108

AUGUST 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 107

Rojak

This is a dessert in Malaysia, which seems odd to us as the dressing is quite savoury (though it is balanced by sweetness), and hot. It makes a great end to an exotic meal – or chop the ingredients smaller and use it as a relish for spiced roast pork. To get a good sweet-sour balance in the dressing, add more lime or sugar to taste. If you’re vegan, leave out the fish sauce. SERVES 6 PREP 30 mins COOK 3 mins EASY

1 mango, slightly underripe 1 papaya, not too ripe 1 large tart apple (such as Granny Smith’s) 400g prepared pineapple (roughly one small fruit), cut into chunks ½ ridge cucumber, peeled and cut into chunks (available from Waitrose or your local greengrocers) ½ ripe Galia or Ogen melon

30g roasted unsalted peanuts, very roughly chopped 1 tbsp white sesame seeds, lightly toasted For the dressing 2 tbsp tamarind paste 2 tsp fish sauce (optional) 2 limes, juiced 2 tbsp palm sugar or soft light brown sugar 1 tsp sambal oelek (a chilli paste), or 2 red chillies, deseeded and chopped

Khatti dhal

Dhal is often a blank canvas, something fairly bland (that is the beauty of dhals – they are so earthy) which you pair with fresh chutneys, but a sweet-sour one, such as this, has more going on. The sourness here comes from tamarind and I’ve suggested adding it in teaspoons so you can judge yourself just how much sourness you want. Toor dhal is also known as toovar dhal and split pigeon peas, but you could use more readily available split red lentils for this. SERVES 4-6 PREP 15 mins plus soaking COOK 1hr 15-1hr 30 mins EASY V G

For the dhal 430g toor dhal or red split lentils ½ tsp turmeric 2 large tomatoes, chopped (it’s better if you remove the skin but I rarely do) 5cm piece ginger, peeled and grated 2 garlic cloves, crushed or grated 2 green chillies, chopped (deseeded if you don’t like it very hot)

2 tbsp tamarind paste 1 tsp hot chilli powder 2 tsp ground coriander For the tempering 2 tbsp oil or ghee (or a mixture of oil and unsalted butter) ½ tsp cumin seeds 8 garlic cloves, sliced 3 dried chillies (I use Kashmiri), roughly broken 12 curry leaves, fresh or frozen (optional)

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1 Mix the ingredients for the dressing together. Peel the mango and cut the cheeks from each side of the stone. Remove the rest of the flesh and slice, discarding any squashed or bruised bits (you need firm flesh for this dish). Peel the papaya, halve, deseed and cut the flesh into slices, and do the same with the melon. 2 Peel or leave the skin of the apple intact, whichever you prefer, then halve, core and cut into small chunks, or thin slices. Carefully toss all the fruit together with the dressing (it works best to use your hands). Taste. You may find you need more lime once the dressing is tossed with the fruit. If I am using this as a relish instead of as a fruit salad, I also add chopped coriander. Scatter the peanuts and sesame seeds over before serving. GOOD TO KNOW low fat • vit c •3 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 168 kcals • fat 4g • saturates 1g • carbs 28g • sugars 25g • fibre 3g • protein 3g • salt 0.1g

1 Soak the toor dhal for about 40 mins, then rinse well. Put it in a large heavy-bottomed saucepan with the turmeric, tomatoes, ginger, garlic and chillies. Add 1.7 litres of water and bring to the boil. Turn the heat down low and cook until you have a thick purée, adding water if it gets too dry. Dhal can be quite soupy or quite thick, depending on how you like it. Simply reduce it to thicken it, or add water to thin it. Season to taste. 2 When the dhal is at a thickness you like, add the tamarind, chilli powder (unless it’s already hot enough), and the ground coriander and check the seasoning. 3 Tempering is the last phase for a dhal. Heat the oil or ghee in a frying pan and add the cumin seeds. Cook over a medium heat for about 30 secs, then add the garlic and cook for about 10 secs (the garlic should eventually become golden but not brown so don’t overdo it at this point), then add the dried chillies and the curry leaves, if using ). Fry until the dried chillies have changed colour slightly and the curry leaves are crisp. Pour this over the dhal and stir. Cover and leave to sit for a few mins before serving. GOOD TO KNOW healthy • low fat • folate • iron • 2 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING 457 kcals • fat 9g • saturates 4g • carbs 68g • sugars 6g • fibre 3g • protein 25g • salt 03g

weekend

Khatti dhal AUGUST 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 109

weekend

Indian spiced salmon

This is a good midweek meal as it’s quick to make. You may be tempted to finish the cooking in the pan but the sugar in the marinade burns easily when in contact with direct heat – it’s safer in the oven. SERVES 4 PREP 15 mins plus marinating COOK 15 mins EASY

1 Preheat oven to 200C/180C fan/ gas 6. Mix the tamarind paste with the lime, sugar, salt, chilli powder, turmeric, garlic and ginger. Add enough water – you won’t need much – to make sufficient marinade to coat the four pieces of fish. Turn the salmon over in the marinade, making sure it gets well coated, cover and put in the fridge for 1 hr (or 30 mins is fine if you’re in a rush). 2 Heat the oil in a large frying pan and add the chillies. Fry over a medium heat for 30-40 secs, then add the salmon fillets. Brown the fillets on each side (including the skin), then transfer them to a roasting tin. Spoon some of the chilli oil from the pan over them. Bake in the oven for 12 mins, or until the fish is cooked right through to the centre (check with the tip of a knife). Serve with rice, lime wedges and an Indian chutney. GOOD TO KNOW omega-3 • gluten free PER SERVING 520 kcals • fat 36g • saturates 9g • carbs 7g • sugars 6g • fibre 1g • protein 41g • salt 0.9g

110 bbcgoodfood.com AUGUST 2017

Food stylist JACK SARGESON | Stylist LUIS PERAL

1 tbsp tamarind paste 1 large lime, juiced 1 tbsp soft light brown sugar 1 /2 tsp salt 1 tsp hot chill powder 2 tsp ground turmeric 2 garlic cloves, grated to a purée 2cm piece ginger, peeled and grated to a purée 4 salmon fillets, 170-200g each 2 tbsp groundnut oil or ghee 2 dried Kashmiri chillies rice, lime wedges and chutney, to serve

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To order, call 01467 629666 quoting bbcgf1702 or visit donaldrussell.com/bbcgf1702 AUGUST 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 111

MASTERCHEF MAKEOVER

Three-cheese

chicken This month, John Torode gives a new twist to one of our most popular prepare-ahead dinner party classics

I 

photograph DAVID MUNNS

t’s great to get retro in the kitchen and the popularity of the original recipe I was asked to make-over proves that. I haven’t deviated too much from the Good Food favourite (if it ain’t broke...) but I’ve cranked up the flavour and added spinach and mushrooms, keeping it in line with classic dinner-party combinations. It’s great to try new things and push yourself in the kitchen – but when you’re after a proper hit, you can’t beat a bit of nostalgic cooking.

40g dried porcini mushrooms 3 tbsp olive oil 1 shallot, finely chopped 1 garlic clove, finely chopped 100g baby leaf spinach 150g ricotta 50g firm mozzarella, coarsely grated 20g parmesan, finely grated 4 skinless chicken breasts 4 slices prosciutto

1 Boil the kettle, tip the mushrooms into a small bowl, pour over boiling water to just cover, then leave to soak for 15 mins. Drain and squeeze out the mushrooms (save and freeze the liquid to make a base for a gravy) and roughly chop. 2 Heat the oil in a frying pan and gently cook the shallots and garlic for 3 mins. Turn up the heat, throw in the mushrooms and cook for a few mins more. Add the spinach, turn the heat up to high and cook until wilted and all the liquid has evaporated. Tip into a bowl and leave to cool. Beat in the cheeses and season with loads of pepper and a little salt. Set aside. 3 Take the chicken breasts and remove the small fillet from the back. Cut a slit into the side of each chicken breast then stuff each one with a quarter of the spinach mixture, closing it with the cut-off fillet. Carefully wrap each stuffed chicken breast in a slice of prosciutto and chill until needed. Can be prepared up to a day ahead. 4 To cook, heat oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Line up the chicken on a baking tray and roast for 20-25 mins until the prosciutto is frazzled at the edges, the cheese is oozing out and the chicken is cooked through. GOOD TO KNOW calcium • gluten free PER SERVING 397 kcals • fat 19g • saturates 7g • carbs 7g • sugars 1g • fibre 1g • protein 48g • salt 1.0g

Every month, chef and Good Food contributing editor John Torode reinvents a popular recipe from our website. He’ll be back with a new series of Celebrity MasterChef on BBC One this month. @JohnTorode1

112 bbcgoodfood.com AUGUST 2017

Shoot director ELIZABETH GALBRAITH

SERVES 4 PREP 15 mins COOK 30 mins A LITTLE EFFORT

Food stylist JENNIFER JOYCE | Stylist VIC ALLEN

Cheese, spinach & mushroom stuffed chicken

weekend

If you’ve tried our mustard-stuffed chicken recipe (bbcgoodfood.com/ mustard-stuffed-chicken), why not try John’s version and let us know which you prefer. Drop us a line at hello@ bbcgoodfood magazine.com

&

For more of John’s recipes, visit bbcgoodfood.com/chef/johntorode. See John cooking at Feast at Hampton Court Palace 26-28 August, visit bbcgoodfoodshow. com for tickets

next month

Smoked haddock & macaroni bake

AUGUST 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 113

Cornish crab with courgettes, p116

Hardwick lamb with smoked eel & turnip, p117

114 bbcgoodfood.com AUGUST 2017

weekend E AT O U T O R E AT I N

NEO BISTRO This modern British menu is as relaxed an on-trend as the restaurant that created it

recipes ALEX HARPER  words CHRISTINE HAYES photographs DAVID COTSWORTH

T

here’s something reassuring about a chalkboard menu – it speaks of honest, relaxed food. Ditto an open kitchen where chefs are happy to discuss with diners what they’re making while they cook. Neo Bistro has both, and despite the French-sounding name (inspired by the Parisian movement where classically-trained chefs are opening more casual places, serving top-quality, simpler food) chef Alex Harper’s short menu consists of British seasonal dishes, including charcuterie cured in-house.  The concise wine list starts at just £4.50

MENU Hibiscus mezcal margarita

per glass and includes some natural wines as well as glamorous rosé from Provence’s Château La Coste. The energetic Nadine Carius (above with Alex) acts as sommelier and general manager. Alex recognises the importance of good provenance and has carefully selected suppliers Flying Fish Seafoods from Cornwall for crab and Lake District Farmers for Herdwick lamb. We asked Alex to adapt our favourite dishes on the menu so that you can make them at home.  neobistro.co.uk

FOR FOUR

Cornish crab with courgette Herdwick lamb with smoked eel & turnip

Strawberries & cream

AUGUST 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 115

Cornish crab with courgette SERVES 4 PREP 30 mins plus chilling COOK 20 mins EASY

1 tbsp white wine vinegar 60ml olive oil 1 yellow courgette, finely sliced (use a mandoline if you have one) 2 small green courgettes 3 garlic cloves, 2 peeled, 1 peeled and sliced 1 small bunch basil, leaves picked 150g handpicked white crab meat

Hibiscus mezcal margarita Try Fee Brothers West Indian orange bitters and Monin hibiscus syrup in this recipe, both are available online.

Pour 35ml mezcal, 20ml Cointreau, 1 dash orange bitters, 2 tsp hibiscus syrup, 15ml lime juice into a shaker with some ice, and add a few drops of rose water, if you like. Shake well. Rub the rim of the glass with a cut lime and dip the rim of the glass into a mix of caster sugar and hibiscus powder. Strain in the cocktail. MAKES 1 PREP 5 mins NO COOK EASY

4 tsp pine nuts, toasted 4 green olives, pitted, very finely diced and kept in some of the brine few leaves of sea vegetables such as samphire, sea aster or salty fingers (used here) 1 /4 preserved lemon, finely shredded 1 tsp herring roe (optional)

1 Put the white wine vinegar, 3 tbsp water, 1 tbsp olive oil and the yellow courgette slices in a saucepan, season with salt and bring to the boil, then turn off the heat and leave to cool in the pan. 2 Trim the sides off the green courgettes in four slices leaving two blocks of core. Finely dice the cores and sides, keeping them separate. Heat 2 tbsp olive oil with the 2 whole garlic cloves in a small saucepan, add the diced sides of the courgette and cook for 10 mins. Meanwhile, boil the kettle and get a bowl of ice water ready, drop the basil into a bowl of boiling water for 30 secs, then use a slotted spoon to transfer to the ice water. Scoop the diced courgette out of the pan, leave to cool, then blitz in a food processor with the basil. Add a little water if you need to, you should have a spoonable green purée – sieve if necessary. Put in the fridge. 3 Cook the diced courgette cores in 1 tbsp olive oil with the sliced garlic until just tender, around 3 mins, then leave to cool and remove the garlic just before serving. 4 To serve, season the crab with salt and olive oil. Spoon some courgette purée into four shallow bowls and arrange the crab in the middle. Add some of the diced courgette around the edge and some green olives at each end. Top with the courgette slices and 1 tsp pine nuts. Scatter over the sea veg, preserved lemon and fish roe. GOOD TO KNOW 1 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING 230 kcals • fat 18g • saturates 3g • carbs 4g • sugars 2g • fibre 4g • protein 11g • salt 1.3g

116 bbcgoodfood.com AUGUST 2017

weekend

Herdwick lamb with smoked eel & turnip We use lamb with a very good flavour and a reasonable amount of fat. Without the fat, you don’t have as much flavour in the dish, so don’t trim it all away. We shot this picture in asparagus season – during the rest of the year, use broccoli instead. SERVES 4 PREP 20 mins COOK 30 mins A LITTLE EFFORT

1 medium turnip or mooli (Southeast Asian radish) 250ml good quality lamb stock 1 /4 tsp cornflour splash cider vinegar 1 /2 garlic clove, thinly sliced 1 large rack of lamb, off the bone (ask your butcher do this for you), cut into 4 portions 8 asparagus spears (in season) or broccoli, trimmed 1 smoked eel fillet, cut into 4 neat, thin rectangles

1 Heat the oven to 175C/155C fan/gas 31/2. Sprinkle the turnip with salt and bake for 9 mins, it should still feel almost raw. Leave to cool, then slice using a mandoline if you have one. 2 To make the sauce, reduce the lamb stock until it concentrates a little. Stir a little stock into the cornflour, then stir the cornflour back into the stock and bring to a simmer. Add a splash of cider vinegar, and take off the heat. Just before serving, add the garlic slices, bring to the boil then remove the garlic, if you like. 3 Season the lamb and cook it on a barbecue or griddle until medium rare, around 2-3 mins each side. Rest for 10 mins. Cook the asparagus or broccoli in boiling salted water for 1 min, remove from the water, steam dry, then BBQ or griddle until tender. 4 To serve, slice each piece of lamb in half and arrange it on a warm plate with 2 asparagus or broccoli spears, one piece of eel and a couple of shavings of turnip. Drizzle over the sauce and serve. GOOD TO KNOW 1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 665 kcals • fat 49g • saturates 22g • carbs 3g • sugars 3g • fibre 1g • protein 51g • salt 1.7g

tip

Use any leftover turnip or mooli slices in salads

AUGUST 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 117

weekend

Strawberries & cream SERVES 4 PREP 30 mins plus chilling COOK 20 mins A LITTLE EFFORT

250g crème fraîche 1 tsp violet syrup (Monin violet syrup is available from amazon.co.uk and online drinks specialists) 1 tbsp icing sugar, plus extra for dusting 1 /2 all butter puff pastry block (around 180g) 200g strawberries, hulled and quartered

100g strawberry jam, sieved 1 tbsp strawberry powder or hibiscus powder (strawberry powder is available from souschef. co.uk) vanilla ice cream, to serve For the vinegar (or buy some strawberry vinegar) 200g strawberries, hulled and halved 50ml white wine vinegar

1 To make the vinegar, put the strawberries in a big bowl, pour over the vinegar and 50ml water, cover and leave for three days at room temperature to ferment. Strain into a container. 2 Whisk the crème fraîche with the syrup and 2 tsp of the icing sugar until it’s the consistency of thick Greek yogurt. Spoon the mixture into a piping bag and chill until needed. 3 Heat oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4. Roll the puff pastry out and cut out four 15 x 7cm rectangles, then dust with icing sugar. Transfer to a baking tray and bake for 15-20 mins until puffed and dark golden brown. Cool, then slice each into three long, even strips with a serrated knife. 4 Put the strawberries in the strawberry vinegar. Spoon the jam into a piping bag. Mix a little strawberry or hibiscus powder into the remaining icing sugar. 5 To serve, pipe a row of four or five crème fraîche dots in two rows down the centre of four dessert plates, leaving a little space in between. Put a piece of puff pastry cut-side up between each row. Pipe dots of jam at the end of each row of crème fraiche and between the dots. Add some strawberries on top and dust with the icing sugar mixture. Serve with vanilla ice cream. GOOD TO KNOW vit c PER SERVING 518 kcals • fat 37g • saturates 23g • carbs 40g • sugars 26g • fibre 3g • protein 4g • salt 0.4g

Make it, snap it, post it – we’ll share the best on Twitter and Instagram @bbcgoodfood #whatimcooking

118 bbcgoodfood.com AUGUST 2017

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TIMESAVERS FAMILY BATCH COOKING Three ways with mince, chicken and cauliflower + The inspiring food pioneers that make Britain greater + Yotam Ottolenghi’s sweet sensations – exclusive new recipes + Spice discoveries 6 new curries you have to try

DON’T FORGET You can download every issue on your iPad and mobile

AUGUST 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 119

“An amazing foodie vibe!”

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AUTUMN WINTER SEASON 2017 30 November – 3 December 20 – 22 October 10 – 12 November

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tarting our autumn winter season of BBC Good Food Shows at Glasgow’s SEC Centre this October, the Show will host an impressive line-up of the UK’s favourite cooking stars, chefs from some of the city’s finest restaurants and an even bigger range of the best local food and drink producers.

Live Entertainment Choose from our great line-up of chefs and experts cooking LIVE on stage at the Big Kitchen. Nadiya Hussain joins us for the very first time, alongside Show favourites Tom Kerridge, the Hairy Bikers and Tom Kitchin. Plus, discover NEW Eat Like a Local sessions with chefs from local on-trend restaurants.

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ext, we head back to Northern Ireland with an amazing line-up of chefs and experts, even more regional producers and some exciting new foodie features to celebrate the best of Northern Ireland’s culinary scene. NEW this year, see world class-chef Michel Roux Jr and family favourite Nadiya Hussain cooking LIVE in the Big Kitchen, plus John Torode and the Hairy Bikers are back!

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inally, join us back in Birmingham NEC for the return of our flagship winter show, packed with the best UK chefs cooking LIVE, great shopping from hundreds of producers and your favourite big brands, plus more festive inspiration than ever before. This year’s stellar line-up includes Michelin masters Michel Roux Jr and Tom Kerridge, queen of baking Mary Berry, family favourite Nadiya Hussain, the entertaining Hairy Bikers, new for this year John Torode, plus Show favourite James Martin is back in our supertheatre. It’s the ultimate day out for real food lovers!

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Visit instantpot.co.uk and enter GF178 at the checkout to get your discount. Or send your name, with a cheque payable to Earlyview Ltd, to: BBC Good Food offer, Earlyview Ltd, Unit 5, Hersham Farm Business Park, Kitsmead Lane, Chertsey KT16 0DN. TERMS AND CONDITIONS Delivery within 28 days to UK mainland only, some exclusions may apply. Offer subject to availability. If you are not completely satisfied with your order, please return goods in mint condition and sealed original packaging for a refund (less p&p) within 14 days of receiving your order.

DATA PROTECTION BBC Worldwide Ltd and Immediate Media Company Ltd (publishers of BBC Good Food) would love to keep you informed by post, telephone or email of their special offers and promotions. Please state at time of ordering if you do not wish to receive these from BBC Worldwide or Immediate Media Company.

To order, visit instantpot.co.uk and enter offer code GF178 at the checkout 124 bbcgoodfood.com AUGUST 2017

test kitchen Expert advice from Barney Desmazery to help you become a better cook

Essential kit: Homemade ice cream Frozen assets from ice cream man Richard Makin.

On test: Portable barbecues For a moveable summer feast.

The ultimate macaroni cheese Even the most classic of recipes can have many hotly debated and contested versions, open to interpretation by every cook that makes it. In this new series, we look at our top-rated comfort-food classics, re-evaluate and reinvigorate them and show you how to make a new version that will become your favourite – trust us! This month, we tackle macaroni cheese. Turn over to find out how.

How to eat: Mussels

Your step-by-step guide

AUGUST 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 125

test kitchen

MUSTARD

TEST KITCHEN

THE ULTIMATE

MACARONI CHEESE

We’ve used English mustard powder to add extra peppery heat, but a spoonful of Dijon mustard would work just as well.

BROWNING THE BUTTER Browning the butter for the sauce adds a nutty flavour to the classic cheese sauce.

SERVES 8-10 PREP 20 mins COOK 35 mins EASY V

photographs PETER CASSIDY

What: Whether you know it as macaroni cheese or mac ’n’ cheese, the granddaddy of pasta bakes comes in many incarnations, from the classic, simple family supper to being used as a canvas for added extras, from lobster to pulled pork. How: To give it universal appeal, we’ve steered away from adding pungent cheeses, but made it extra savoury with some clever seasonings that enhance the flavour of the cheese. We’ve made the recipe extra indulgent by increasing the amount of cheese used, and for the sauce-to-pasta ratio we’ve gone with an amount that’s saucy but still holds its shape when scooped from the dish.

THE RIGHT DISH A 28cm round or 22 x 32cm ovenproof dish is ideal. You want the crumb to be just above the top of the dish to ensure it browns well.

You will need 500g small elbow macaroni 80g butter, plus extra for tossing through the pasta 3 tbsp plain flour 600ml whole milk 170g can evaporated milk 700g extra mature cheddar, 500g coarsely grated, 200g chopped into small chunks

1 tbsp mustard powder large pinch cayenne pepper 1 tbsp marmite splash of malt, cider or red wine vinegar 50g each grated parmesan (or vegetarian alternative), fresh white breadcrumbs and panko breadcrumbs

126 bbcgoodfood.com AUGUST 2017

CHEESE Rather than throwing in the whole cheeseboard, to keep the flavours clear we’ve just gone with extra mature cheddar and parmesan, which acts as a salty cheese seasoning. As well as grated cheddar, we’ve added chunks, to give melted, cheesy pockets.

test kitchen

BREADCRUMBS We’ve used two types of breadcrumbs, as they do different jobs. The fresh are there to soak up the oil from the cheese, and the panko guarantee crunch.

VINEGAR We’ve added some acidity in the form of a splash of vinegar. Its sharpness cuts through the richness of the dish and it also acts as a seasoning.

MARMITE Marmite is like a flavour bomb and using it cranks ups the umami (savouriness) of the dish.

EVAPORATED MILK This adds a sheen and richness to the sauce but without making it taste overly creamy.

Why we didn’t add

PASTA For the best ratio of sauce to pasta, we’ve used elbow macaroni. You can use another shape, but that turns it into just a pasta bake.

ONION Cheese and onion is a classic flavour combo, but we found that onion and spring onion overpowered the mac and cheese, and also meant it couldn’t be made as far in advance.

How to make it 1 Heat oven to 220C/200C fan/ gas 8. Cook the macaroni in salted water for 2 mins less than the stated cooking time, so it still has plenty of bite. Drain well and toss with a small knob of the butter to stop it from sticking together. 2 In a heavy-bottomed saucepan, heat the remaining butter until frothy and nut-brown. Pour off 1 tbsp into a small bowl and place the pan back on the heat, then scatter over and whisk in the flour and cook for 3 mins until you have a sandy paste. Add the milk, a splash at a time, simmering and whisking until smooth between each addition. Once all the milk has been added, drizzle in the evaporated milk, then add the grated cheddar, a handful at a time, until you have a thick, cheesy sauce. Stir through the mustard powder, cayenne, marmite and vinegar and taste for seasoning, adding salt and pepper as needed. 3 Remove from heat, stir in the macaroni, then stir through the chunks of cheese. Tip the contents of the saucepan into a large, buttered baking dish. In a small bowl, mix together all the breadcrumbs, the parmesan, another small pinch cayenne and some crunchy sea salt if you want. Scatter the crumbs over the macaroni, drizzle with the reserved brown butter and bake for 30-35 mins until lightly browned, crunchy all over and bubbling around the edges. Leave to stand for 10 mins before serving straight from the dish. GOOD TO KNOW calcium V PER SERVING (10) energy 679 kcals • fat 38g • saturates 23g • carbs 51g • sugars 6g • fibre 3g • protein 31g • salt 2.0g

BACON We know all cheese isn’t vegetarian, but we also know there are lots of vegetarians who are happy to eat cheese, so we’ve kept it meat-free.

TOMATOES They release their juices as they cook, which dilutes the sauce and stops the top becoming crunchy.

AUGUST 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 127

Food stylist ELENA SILCOCK | Stylist JENNY IGGLEDEN

GET AHEAD The dish can be made up to three days in advance and then baked straight from the fridge. If baking from chilled, add 10 mins to the cooking time.

HOW TO EAT MUSSELS ESSENTIAL KIT

|

ICE CREAM MAKING AT HOME

Our mess-free guide to eating this delicious summer seafood

On hot summer days, there’s nothing better than homemade ice cream. We asked Richard Makin, founder of Blu Top Ice Cream, what’s needed to make it at home.

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GREAT DAIRY

A GOOD THERMOMETER

Always use whole milk and double cream. Look for dairy with a naturally high protein content – Guernsey and Jersey are top notch. We get ours from The Estate Dairy, which you can buy at Selfridges. theestatedairy.com.

We always recommend using a probe thermometer if you’re pasteurising your own ice cream base. It eliminates all the guesswork and ensures your ice cream is safe to serve. Hygiplas Multipurpose stem thermometer, £14.99, nisbets.co.uk.

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When it comes to churning ice cream, a hefty price tag doesn’t always equal great ice cream. Our favourite counter-top machine is from Buffalo – it’s robust, reliable and about half the price of the big domestic brands. Buffalo 1.5-litre ice cream maker, £179.99, nisbets.co.uk. Or turn to p13 for our high street buys.

2 Using the now-empty shell as tweezers, pinch the remaining mussels from their shells, eating them one by one.

A PROPER SCOOP

Serving ice cream with a substandard scoop is like chopping tomatoes with a blunt knife: frustrating and messy! Forget gimmicky models with rubber handles or ejector buttons, and stick to the classics. We use the US brand Zeroll, which is filled with a conductive liquid that helps it retain heat from your hand. Zeroll Original ice cream scoop, £20.99, nisbets.co.uk.

3 Have a separate bowl for the empty shells, or serve in a deep bowl and arrange them around the lip as you go.

3 PROPER VANILLA

The price of Madagascan vanilla pods has risen by 500% in the last two years, so now may be a good time to experiment with other countries of origin. We use Mexican vanilla, which has a much more complex flavour. You can find it at vanillamart.co.uk.

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BLU TOP You can find Blu Top at various street-food sites across London. Visit blutopicecream.com to find out more. @blutopicecream

4 Contrary to popular belief, if a cooked mussel hasn’t opened, it means either that it’s full of grit or that it’s the freshest of the bunch. Twisting it open with both hands, away from the rest, will reveal which seafood surprise awaits.

Illustrations GEORGE BLETSIS | Photographs ISTOCK | On Test ANNA LAWSON

A GOOD ICE CREAM MACHINE

1 Pick up the first mussel, using the shape of the shell to scoop up some of the juices. Prise the shell open and slurp the mussel and juice straight from the shell.

test kitchen

THREE OF THE BEST ON TEST

PORTABLE BARBECUES

We rate the latest kitchen kit each month – find more reviews at bbcgoodfood.com

WHAT WE LOOKED FOR

| HOW EASY IT IS TO PUT TOGETHER

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BEST BLOWOUT BARBIE

Cobb® Premier charcoal grill £109.99, lakeland.co.uk This is one serious piece of al fresco kit – not only does it barbecue food, it’s also suitable for smoking, roasting and pizza-making. The design is sleek and futuristic, bordering on UFO-like, it requires minimal charcoal and the Teflon cooking plate is really easy to clean. It’s worth pointing out that as it doesn’t have traditional griddle grooves, our sausages rolled around and got a bit unruly. The padded shoulder bag is a welcome touch if you might have a long walk to the beach or park. 2

BEST FOR IMPATIENT COOKS

Lotus Standard Grill £145, lotusgrilluk.com If the worst part of barbecuing is waiting for your food, then this is the one for you. The LotusGrill has an inbuilt fan, which gets the charcoal up to temperature in around five minutes. Compared with other charcoal barbecues, we

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Convenience is key here. We looked for models that can be assembled in minutes.

PORTABILITY AND STORAGE

couldn’t believe the ease with which you could cook – no need to coax the coals, you simply fire up and expect good heat for over half an hour. The charcoal is in an enclosed container and with a fan going, you don’t get much in the way of charcoal flavour. But the efficiency and generous cooking area – it cooks enough for 4-5 people – easily make up for this.

How easily the barbecue can be carried and how heavy it is, plus how well it can be stored in the long term.

BEST FOR LONGEVITY STAR BUY

Because we don’t want to be trapped in the park, sat around burning cinders until dawn.

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Weber Smokey Joe Premium £69.99, weber.com Weber doesn’t just do barbecues – it does epic, Tony Soprano-friendly contraptions the size of small sheds. For those of us without acres of lawn, it also makes this neat, dinky Smokey Joe dome. This is classic American barbecue design at its finest. The porcelain-enamelled material is deceptively lightweight and extremely durable, and there’s a handy lid that clips onto the side for protection against the wind. Plus it’s a doddle to clean, and durable: we left ours outside, uncovered, for an entire winter and it barely diminished, despite considerable pummelling from the British weather.

DESIGN We’re suckers for nifty aesthetic flashes.

HOW QUICKLY IT COOLS DOWN

DURABILITY AND ACCESSORIES The quality of the metal and whether it comes with added extras.

AUGUST 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 129

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To order, call 0844 493 5654** quoting 74177 or visit clifford-james. co.uk/74177 or send your contact details, address and the codes and quantities of the item(s) you wish to order, along with a cheque payable to BVG Group, to: Good Food Offer 74177, PO Box 87, Brecon LD3 3BE. *Please add £4.95 p&p per order TERMS AND CONDITIONS *P&P is £4.95 per order. Delivery within seven working days to UK mainland only, some exclusions may apply. **Calls cost 7p per minute plus your phone company’s access charge. If not completely satisfied with your order, please return goods in mint condition and sealed original packaging for a refund within 30 days of receiving your order. Return postage costs will not be refunded unless the item was faulty. Your contract for supply of goods is with BVG Group. ‘Was’ pricing refers to the original selling prices offered on the promoter’s website cjoffers.co.uk, and in their retail store between 24/4/17 and 24/7/17. A signature is required on delivery. DATA PROTECTION BBC Worldwide Limited and Immediate Media Company Limited (publishers of BBC Good Food) would love to keep you informed by post, telephone or email of their special offers and promotions. Please state at time of ordering if you do not wish to receive these from BBC Worldwide or Immediate Media Company.

To order, call 0844 493 5654** quoting 74177 or visit clifford-james.co.uk/74177 130 bbcgoodfood.com AUGUST 2017

eat like a local The Good Food insider’s guide to the best places to eat, drink and browse when you’re travelling in the UK or around the world

6 active FOODIE BREAKS p138

What to eat and drink in BASEL

Photograph GETTY

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Insider ABERDEEN p136

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BASEL Marina O’Loughlin eats

This pretty Swiss city where three countries meet has a rich cross-cultural cuisine. Rösti and bratwurst abound in its traditional restaurants, while exotic eats await those who venture into the buzzing riverside district of Kleinbasel

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eat like a local

W

hen you arrive at Basel airport, you land on French soil. As you walk along the beautiful banks of the Rhine, you’re in Switzerland, but you don’t have to travel far before you’re in Germany. Basel’s restaurants are reflections of this multiple personality: menus swaggering around ravioli and rÖsti, bratwurst and chateaubriand without pausing for breath. I always try to get under the skin of a destination, but here it’s proving elusive: Basel shifts its demeanour as frequently as a reality TV star changes frocks. So, I head for the zünfte, the old guild houses (Basel is a rich city, founded on a long mercantile past), some of which now operate as restaurants. Imposing from the outside, the wood-panelled interiors speak of ancient commerce. In Restaurant Safran Zunft’s (safran-zunft.ch/en), muralled upstairs room, billionaire art collectors do their hustling over the legendary veal fondue and – of course – saffron risotto. The oldest guild house, Schlüsselzunft (schluessel-zunft. ch), with its extraordinary decorative stove has cuisine as solid as the surroundings. These are very much hipster-free zones. I adore the Kunsthalle (restaurant-kunsthalle.ch). Inside, past the kiosk for laundering your Hermès scarves (I said this was a rich city, didn’t I?), one side is all brown wood panelling, whitejacketed waiters and dessert trolleys, but on the other side of the muralled wall, all is light, white and chic. I’m becoming familiar with menus that feature salade Lyonnaise and pecorino & tomato ravioli, but I’m here for the rösti, insanely buttery and served with a veal sausage, mustard and onion sauce: the recherché joys of beige food.  AUGUST 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 133

SWISS CHEESE & HIPSTER HOPS

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I SPEND HOURS WALKING AROUND, SO I FEEL JUSTIFIED IN EATING VATS OF BUBBLING FONDUE TALES FROM THE RIVER

But it’s hard to drag myself away from Kleinbasel, where life is a little less predictable than across the river. I’m avoiding the high-end Michelin suspects, the likes of multi-starred Cheval Blanc or local hero Tanya Graditz’s ‘edgy’ Stucki. Here in Kleinbasel there are cute little Thais, like Boo (boobasel.ch), and quirky handmade pasta restaurants such as the delicious Gabri’s (gabrispasta.ch). More upscale is Volkshaus (volkshausbasel.ch), a striking cultural centre, beer garden and restaurant. Here, Chef Benjamin Mohr mixes up the classical (a luscious Swiss meatloaf with morels and buttery mashed potato) with the edgy (pig carré with chickpea cream). Sometimes the edgy

CHRISTIAN KOBER/AWL-IMAGES, HANS-GEORG EIBEN/4CORNERS

STREET FOOD & WORLD FLAVOURS

Enough of indulging my fetish for the past: time for a blast of modernity. And it doesn’t come more contemporary than the vibes at the newly-revived Markthalle (markthalle-basel.ch). A mix of streetfooders, bars and permanent outlets where the foods of seemingly every country in the world are represented – it’s unmissable. I toy with the idea of arepas, fish and chips, Ethiopian injera, sushi or (of course) burgers; food from Abyssinia or the Persian Gulf or Argentina. But I go Kurdish. Why not? It’s splendid, a kind of spiced lamb, blistered dough pide studded with peppers, nigella seeds and chilli. Wherever I wander, I find charm and friendliness: I look round the Teufelhof Hotel (teufelhof.com) with owner Raphael Wyniger, which boasts constantly changing artist-designed

rooms, destination restaurants and a wine store flanked by the ancient city walls. I walk along the river to the hotel’s new outpost, Ufer 7 ( facebook.com/ufer7/ ), for a hip approach to Swiss cuisine: fresh fish, salads of sausage and cheese (my kind of salad), crispy Swiss chicken wings and hand-cut chips, in a river-facing location just by the Mittler Brücke (middle bridge).  I have nightcaps in the super-posh Les Trois Rois Hotel (lestroisrois.com); coffees and kirsch macarons in cafés, from the classic (Confiserie Bachmann; confiserie.ch), to the cool (almost anywhere on the Feldbergstrasse or Klybeckstrasse in Kleinbasel). I’m officially too old for the ravey scene that has sprung up around the old railroad tracks of grungey Uferstrasse, but none of its handsome, bearded and tattooed denizens is anything other than welcoming when I stop for a beer and contemplation of the river.  Photographs PRISMA BY DUKAS PRESSEAGENTUR GMBH/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO,

Despite a world-class public transport system (free if you’re a visitor!), I spend hours walking around – my Fitbit doesn’t know what’s hit it – so I feel justified in eating vats of bubbling cheese fondue in the likes of the tiny, Alpine-hut-like Elsbethen-stübli (elsbethenstuebli.ch). Allegedly one of the city’s finest, it’s made with two different kinds of Swiss cheese. Rather than using wine or spirits, they do a beer fondue in Restaurant Linde (linde-basel.ch) – unsurprising as it is owned by the Ueli brewery next door (uelibier.ch). I’m shown round the ancient building in Kleinbasel (‘lesser Basel’), the former artisan and red-light district on the Rhine’s other bank, now a magnet for cool, urban Baselers. There’s a hidden garden, a basement crammed with the machinery of production and the art-rammed Fischerstübe restaurant. The beer is fresh-brewed daily: I try everything, from their sprightly lager to a fragrant wheat beer and an almost Guinness-dark brew with notes of toffee. I’m not usually a beer fan but I’m completely sold.  My hotel, the lovely Krafft (krafftbasel.ch), is on the same street, the bar and restaurant-lined Rheingasse, and I never get tired of the view over the Rhine from my room. The hotel’s restaurant has the same tranquil views, too, the perfect spot to kick-off the day over pretzel rolls, homemade jams and – sure, why not? – more Swiss cheese. The hotel also runs the Consum wine bar (consumbasel.ch) across the road: tempting for nightcaps, charcuterie and a devastating selection of cheeses. Life here spills deliciously onto the streets and the banks of the river, so clean it bobs with swimmers when the sun comes out.  So far, so Swiss: cheese, beer, rösti, sausages. What’s missing? Chocolate, obviously. Off to Confiserie Schiesser (confiserieschiesser.ch) for the city’s famous leckerli, a spiced almond and honey biscuit, and all manner of fine chocolates made on-site. Upstairs, in the tearoom, Baseler ladies sip champagne and eat creamy mushroom vol-au-vents with garden peas: bliss. 

eat like a local

doesn’t quite come off: red pepper and prosecco cocktail, anyone? But it’s a fascinating reflection of real life in Basel, multicultural and sophisticated. Locals and TripGourmet bloggers Sarah and Tom  (tripgourmets.com) introduce me to the Kaserne (kaserne-basel.ch), a repurposed barracks behind the river where Basel comes to play and picnic in the sunshine. Inside, Post Cuchis, an almostrestaurant made from doors and windows, has different chefs nightly, offering food from Syria or Laos or simply hefty Swiss sausages. If I lived in Basel, I’d basically just live here. But the most interesting meal I have during my visit is at the newish Roter Bären (roterbaeren.ch). This would appear to be the first restaurant in Basel to get into the ‘small plates’ trend, and chef Roger von Büren does it with creative aplomb, serving guinea fowl with rösti, charred baby cos, anchovies and parmesan, like a celestial Caesar salad. My guest isn’t quite as up-to-speed with contemporary cooking tropes as I am, and marvels at the scallop and cauliflower dish: ‘but it’s all raw!’ Scratch Basel’s occasionally bourgeois surface and there are adventures to be found. Although I like its bourgeois side, too. Wood panelling and art, rösti and fondue: riches for everyone.  

LIFE HERE SPILLS DELICIOUSLY ONTO THE STREETS AND RIVERBANK # Assistance for this trip was provided by Basel Tourism (basel.com) and easyJet (easyjet.com). easyJet flies to Basel from Bristol, Edinburgh, London Gatwick, London Luton and Manchester, from £19 per person one-way. AUGUST 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 135

Insider

ABERDEEN

Beachside dining, exotic gelato, the freshest of local seafood, and healthy, wholesome café fare: Scotland’s Granite City is a find for foodie travellers looking for a tasty summer city break words JANICE HOPPER

THE CONSERVATORY RESTAURANT

IX restaurant

Offering impeccable service, the family-run, five-star Marcliffe Hotel and Spa, set in eight acres of grounds, is home to the enticing Conservatory Restaurant. As well as serving local game and Aberdeen Angus beef, the Marcliffe has a distinctive seafood menu. Scottish lobster landed in Aberdeen; jumbo Russian red king crab from Murmansk, Russia; extra-large West Coast langoustines fresh from nearby Peterhead; and there are huge wild Atlantic tiger prawns. Seafood dishes start at £15; marcliffe.com SO

FOOD STORY

Vegetarian at lunch, vegan in the evening, and serving vegan and gluten-free cakes all day, Food Story offers healthy eating with flavour and flair. Its new coffee bar, juice bar and food shop make a tasty alternative stop in the city centre. Lunch menu from £2.50; foodstorycafe.co.uk CD CE KF

MAD PENGUIN

Imaginative and creative, with ample vegan and soy-free options, Mad Penguin is a vibrant ice cream and lolly-stick emporium that pops with colour. Flavours include locally distilled Esker Gin, and smoked salmon and avocado, as well as classics. Lollies from £2.50; facebook.com/madpenguingelato CD CE KF

IX RESTAURANT

Executive chef Kevin Dalgleish is putting the Chester Hotel on the map with its two AA Rosettes-winning restaurant. Making the most of the local larder, mains include roast North Sea monkfish and Mossies Farm pork. The contemporary setting, with theatre kitchen, adds to the experience. The children’s menu includes such grown-up offerings as My First Steak. Mains from £18; chester-hotel.com SO KF

Mad Penguin

Formartine’s

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Bridge of Dee photograph ALAMY

THE SANDDOLLAR CAFE & BISTRO

This bistro café offers great breakfasts and brunches, just metres from Aberdeen Bay. Their overnight oats and porridge dishes are packed with slow-release carbs, the yogurt breakfasts are accompanied by fruit compotes, muesli, seeds and nuts, and the full Scottish breakfast is a traditional, no-nonsense offering. A children’s menu ensures little ones are fed before they hit the beach. Yogurts, porridge and oats for £6.90; sanddollarcafe.com CD KF

eat like a local

5

FOODIE PLACES

TO TRY

Formartine’s Escape the city and head 40 minutes north of Aberdeen, to Formartine’s in Tarves. Enjoy venison from the nearby Haddo estate or foods from their own smokehouse in Methlick. formartines.com Cocoa Ooze For luxury chocolate, drop by the café, shop and workshops of this creative Granite City chocolatier. cocoa-ooze.co.uk The Gourmet Cheese Company A small cheesemonger stocking more than 60 cheeses from Scotland, England, Ireland, France, Spain, Italy and the Netherlands. facebook. com/gourmetcheeseco Rishi’s For a rich range of tiffin dishes, from medhu vadai (fritters), to epic masala dosas (stuffed rice pancakes), it’s got to be Rishi’s on George Street. rishis-aberdeen.co.uk Brewdog The craft beer brand’s debut venue opened in Aberdeen in 2010. Sign up for the ‘BrewDog Beer School’ for a tasting menu of five beers with complementary cheese and meats. brewdog.com

The Bridge of Dee, Aberdeen Maggie’s Grill

ROSS BAKERY

The pies at Ross Bakery on Chapel Street are close to legendary. The macaroni pie and the mince and mealie pie particularly turn the heads of visitors. The former is a popular carb-fest, the latter usually begs the question ‘What’s mealie?’ Mealie is just like skirlie, and if that doesn’t help you, just think oats. Pies from £1.70; rossbakery.co.uk CE

MOONFISH

Located on the cobbled medieval streets of Aberdeen’s Merchant Quarter, Moonfish dishes up a focused menu of quality dishes. Suitable for fine-dining or a casual get-together, its menu leads with hake, halibut, lamb and asparagus. Also notable is its gin menu, including tipples such as The Botanist from the Isle of Islay, Saffron from France, and Junipero from San Fransisco. Two courses for £30; moonfishcafe.co.uk CD SO

MAGGIE’S GRILL

This chilled eatery on Holburn Street serves up unpretentious soul food, BBQ and cajun. Savour spicy staples like southern fried chicken, gumbo of the day, BBQ pulled brisket, and howlin’ wolf chilli, in a laidback café atmosphere. The kids’ menu includes popcorn chicken and BBQ pulled pork. Mains from £9.95; maggiesgrill.co.uk CD KF

SILVER DARLING

Named after the precious herring catch, this is the place to be on a summer evening, as ships sail into harbour and dolphins frolic in the sea. French chef Didier Dejean has been at the helm since 1986, serving dishes that include brown crab and prawns and roast-cumin-crusted monkfish. Mains from £14.95; thesilverdarling.co.uk SO

ALMONDINE

With a seasonal macaron menu, a French patisserie selection and an afternoon tea with a waiting list, Almondine always feels like a treat. Favourites include the pink peppercorn, pistachio and vanilla macarons. Macarons start at £1.15; almondine.co.uk SO Moonfish

Almondine

SUITABLE FOR CD casual dining CE cheap eat KF kid friendly SO special occasion

Janice Hopper, a food, travel and rural lifestyle writer based in Aberdeen, never tires of the Granite City’s larder. @tots2travel

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six quick trips

ACTIVE foodie breaks Explore some of Europe’s most delicious destinations, and work up an appetite for local, hearty, healthy food, served up against a backdrop of lakes and mountains, rivers and beautiful beaches

SWISS SCENERY & SCHNITZEL IN INTERLAKEN

Lakes and mountains, and mountainous plates of hearty Swiss food, make this postcard-perfect region of Switzerland a must for outdoorsy foodies. Begin by cutting into a crisp-coated giant schnitzel on the terrace of the Harder Kulm Panorama Restaurant ( jungfrau.ch/en-gb/ harderkulm) while viewing perennially snow-capped peaks. Interlaken’s rail connections make the town a good base for exploring the Bernese Alps (swissrailways.com). The Jungfrau Railway ( jungfrau.ch) runs to the Jungfraujoch, Europe’s highest station, from there you can join a guided hike on the Aletsch Glacier and stay overnight in an Alpine hut (aletscharena.ch). 138 bbcgoodfood.com AUGUST 2017

Once you’ve earned the indulgence, order some Zürcher geschnetzeltes – hearty chunks of veal served in a creamy, wine-laced sauce, a speciality of the canton (district), served at the Restaurant Stadthaus (restaurantstadthaus. ch; mains from £27), in Unterseen. For a two- or threecourse menu cooked and hosted by a family, book with Dinner at Home (interlaken.ch). You won’t find raclette and fondue on these local tables (such cuisine clichés are banned), but you can expect inventive gratins and lively salads, all from £24 per person. Where to stay The four-star Hotel Interlaken (hotelinterlaken.ch), five minutes’ walk from Interlaken Ost railway station, dates from 1491, and has modern double rooms from £275 a night. Stuart Forster

eat like a local

The Reichstag building

BIKING & CAFÉ-HOPPING IN BERLIN

Harder Kulm Panorama Restaurant

Berlin is a rare European capital that retains its genuinely alternative, bohemian spirit. Berliners are fiercely proud of their cultural diversity and this is reflected in the range of exciting plates on offer to hungry travellers. Think beyond sausages and sauerkraut and discover Berlin’s youthful food scene. Get a narrated overview of the city’s hot-spots, from bustling Museum Island to lesser-known local hangouts like Café Anna Blume on a food and biking tour with Fat Tire ( fattiretours.com; £43 per person). This is the perfect way to combine the city’s historical and foodie landmarks. En-route you’ll sample Middle Eastern falafel and halloumi at Dada Falafel, a godsend for vegetarians in this meaty city. In Prenzlauer Berg, the route pitches up at Die Schuler for tapas-style German tasting menus. Share a crisp flammkuchen, and you’ll never go back to doughy pizzas. Finally, pedallers are treated to a slice of classic apple strudel in Café Einstein, a gambling den in the Weimar-era. If you’re happier on foot, walking foodie tours are available from Bite Berlin (biteberlin.com). Try the supper club group tour (£61 per person) and learn to cook traditional German food. Pack a picnic from Barcomis deli (barcomis.de) – perhaps a Reuben with pastrami and saukerkraut (£5) – and make the most of summer days with a kayak tour down the River Spree (kajakberlintours.de; three hours from £19). There’s also stand-up paddle-boarding if you’re feeling adventurous. Where to stay A double room at the central MÖvenpick hotel (movenpick.com), in the former Siemens building near Potsdamer Platz, costs from £57 per night. Georgina Kiely

Dada Falafel

Reuben sandwich

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HIKING AND FARM-TO-FORK EATING IN NORTH SARDINIA

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Pane carasau

Traditional food at the Eroica

The Eroica bike ride

On the first Sunday every October, a vintage road-bike ride comes to Gaiole in Chianti, a village in the heart of vineyard-cloaked Tuscany. The Eroica (eroica.cc) sees riders don retro costumes, pedal pre-1987 bikes, and stop along the way to fuel up on meats, cheese and good local wine. Choose from five routes (46km, 75km, 115km, 135km, and 209km), all of which involve bumping along ‘strade bianche’, the gravelly white roads that criss-cross Tuscany. Open to everyone, the Eroica is a brilliant showcase for local cuisine. Don’t miss the stop in Radda, where trestle tables are laden with bread, some soaked in red wine and sprinkled with sugar, while bunches of grapes, grown metres away, glisten in the sun. The hilltop town of Panzano is famed for its butcher Dario Cecchini and offers crusty bread topped with herby salami or, for the more adventurous, fish lard. Try ribollita, a hearty soup made with bread, beans and vegetables, and ‘crostata’, Italy’s answer to jam tarts. Eat with Chianti from the vineyards you’ve just pedalled past. Where to stay La Vigna, in Montebuoni, a two-bedroom apartment near Lecchi in Chianti, from £730 for a week’s selfcatering, with To Tuscany (to-tuscany.com). Ellie Ross

Antonio Saba, Ellie Ross, Eroica, iStock, StockFood/Rafael Pranschke

BIKING AND HERITAGE FOOD IN TUSCANY

Photographs Rob Lewis Photography, Getty Images, StockFood/Keller & Keller Photography

Sardinia’s northern shores beckon to be explored by boat, bike or on foot, with stunning coastal and mountain vistas, and exceptional indigenous dishes to reward you for your efforts. Sail around the archipelago of La Maddalena to swim, snorkel or scuba in crystal turquoise water and discover secret, boat-only access bays. Inland, the Barbagia mountains offer stunning scenic hiking and biking trails, with excursions to see the Bronze Age ruins and cave excavations a treat for novice walkers and archaeology buffs. A staple for any backpack picnic: pane carasau is the local, wafer-thin, crispy bread with sea salt crystals and olive oil; ubiquitous local wines include Cannonau and Vermentino di Gallura (DOCG). For gift-worthy produce head to La Bottega del Gusto, a lovely deli on Via Nazionale in the former fishing town of Cannigione. Authentic, farm-to-fork dining is on offer at La Colti Farmhouse (lacolti.it), in Cannigione with traditional set menus of sharing-style plates served in the rustic courtyard. Don’t miss slow-cooked, spit-roasted suckling pig and seadas – cheese-filled fritters, doused with local honey.  Hotel Su Gologone (sugologone.it/en), in Oliena, offers a hearty selection of cheese, pasta and meat dishes, including wild boar, lamb and local sausages. Sample soup, made with rare filindeu pasta softened in cheesy lamb broth, and learn how to make pane carasau in the traditional brick oven. How to do it Citalia offers seven-night holidays from £1,235 per person including four nights B&B at the Hotel Relais Villa del Golfo & Spa (hotelvilladelgolfo.it/en), three nights half-board at Hotel Su Gologone, seven days car hire, and return flights. Activities extra, booked via Citalia’s concierge at citalia.com. Sarah Lienard

Hotel Relais Villa del Golfo & Spa, Sardinia

eat like a local WALKING AND PLOT-TOPLATE FEASTING IN THE AUVERGNE One great thing about walking in France’s central Auvergne region – apart from the beauty of its lush, volcanic landscapes – is that it helps you work up an appetite for the fabulous five-course feasts served by Peter Taylor and his team, at the relaxed Auberge de Chassignolles (aubergedechassignolles.com). By day, explore this verdant Rhône-Alpine region, with an amble through the ancient forests and meadows of the Livradois Forez natural park around the auberge, or venture a bit further to hike the well-marked footpaths below the sharp peaks of Monts Dore or Cantal regions. Pass, as you walk, the cows whose rich milk is used for the region’s cheeses, from creamy St Nectaire and Fourme d’Ambert to cheddary Cantal. In the evenings, settle into the auberge’s stylishly spartan dining room for classic French cooking with a contemporary touch. Strictly seasonal ingredients are homegrown, foraged or sourced direct from local producers, many of whom you can meet at the Saturday market in nearby Brioude. Also notable are the homemade charcuterie, biodynamic wines and sublime breakfasts – far more than the usual coffee and croissant; there’s also homemade yogurt and sourdough bread, fresh canteloupe melon, Peter’s homemade granola and apricot jam. The eight rooms upstairs, overlooking the square, are simple but lovely – and happily affordable. Where to stay One night’s B&B at Auberge de Chassignolles costs from £53 per person, based on two sharing, three nights’ minimum stay. Maia Squinado

Auvergne

SUN SALUTATIONS IN MÁLAGA

If the thought of taking a yoga holiday with the family causes indigestion, then think again. In the mountains, 30 minutes from the bustle of newly spruced-up Málaga, Santillan is a wellness centre with a privatehouse vibe, welcoming yogis of all ages during select weeks hosted by forward-thinking Roro Retreats. Daily yoga classes for both adults and families provide quality time with and without your children, hosted by British yogi, Tara Fraser. During our stay, kids nine months to 12 years old were captivated by chanting and simple postures, then whisked off during adult classes (a variety of dynamic and meditative sessions) for such inventive distractions as herbhunting hikes. Family time at Santillan’s salt water swimming pool was a daily winner. Surrounding farms supply most produce, cooked by a coterie of Kids’ cheery local Spanish ladies. yoga Healthy salads accompany grilled fish for staple dinners, followed by desserts made with the lightest of touches. How to do it Seven days’ full board, childcare, two to three daily yoga classes from £700 per child, £1,200 per adult. Flights and transfers extra (rororetreats.com). Sarah Barrell " Assistance for this feature was provided by: for Interlaken, myswitzerland.com, jungfrau.ch and interlaken.ch; for Sardinia, citalia.com; for Tuscany, to-tuscany.com; Auvergne aubergede chassignolles.com and brittany-ferries.co.uk and for Spain, rororetreats.com AUGUST 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 141

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Food and travel writer Catherine Quinn

Revamp your summer party menus with these honey-infused ideas from Catherine Quinn, inspired by new Sunbites’ Honey Glazed Barbecue flavour

Eastern trendsetting Sticky fried chicken is so popular in Korea that you’ll find it on almost every street corner – and it’s incredibly easy to make at home. Wash and dry chicken wings, and coat them in honey, cayenne pepper, garlic, salt and pepper to taste. Then griddle them over a high heat for a delicious, sticky treat. They’ll be a guaranteed hit with your guests. Salad dressing with a difference Complement an Asian-themed BBQ with a peanut and honey salad dressing. Grind lemongrass and garlic together using a pestle and mortar, then mix in a generous spoonful of peanut butter, a few tablespoons of rice vinegar and equal parts sesame oil. This zingy dressing is the perfect addition to a peppery salad made from fresh rocket and watercress. Contemporary crispy snacks With your menu prepared, treat yourself to a packet of Sunbites’ new Honey Glazed Barbecue flavour. The tasty snack’s delicious natural flavours and crunchy multigrain texture fit perfectly with fresh, honest food.

Flour

Good bread takes time, say the BBC Food and Farming finalists whose bakery in the Scottish Borders offers handmade loaves the locals love interview CLARE HARGREAVES recipe TOM VAN ROOYEN portrait PAUL DODDS

W

hen Czechborn Pavlina van Rooyen, who runs The Earth’s Crust Bakery with her husband, Tom, first settled in Dumfries and Galloway in Scotland, she was taken aback by the state of the nation’s bread. ‘Back home, every community bakes its own sourdough bread from scratch,’ she says, ‘so it was quite a shock to see people buying factory-made stuff in the supermarkets.’ Pavlina and Tom met while studying in Denmark. After returning to live in his native Scotland, Tom worked as a cook for a local events centre and found the job he most enjoyed was baking bread. So in 2012 the couple decided to set up a bakery, making the same sort of bread Pavlina had been raised on at home. That meant ‘real’, slow-fermented bread, made by hand from the best organic ingredients. It hasn’t all been plain sailing, though. Their tiny bakery was in a shed at the back of their garden in Laurieston, South West Scotland. But in March 2015, the building was destroyed by fire. A year later, with the help of community crowdfunding, the couple relocated to Castle Douglas, their local town. Today, the bakery (earthscrustbakery.co.uk ) makes sourdough and yeasted loaves, as well as focaccias, pasties, quiches and pastries. It has a café, too, offering single-origin coffee and soups.Its artisan products are clearly hitting the spot, prompting judges Sheila Dillon and Giorgio Locatelli to name them finalists in this year’s BBC Food and Farming Awards.

& Winners of the 2017 BBC Food and Farming Awards (bbc.co.uk/foodawards) will be announced at a ceremony in Bristol on 20 September, then in a special edition of The Food Programme on Radio 4 on 24 September.

Recipe photograph MYLES NEW | Food stylist AMY STEPHENSON | Stylist TONY HUTCHINSON

SWEETEN UP YOUR BARBECUE

eat like a local

power Potato & turmeric focaccia SERVES 12 PREP 20 mins plus overnight proving and resting COOK 30 mins MORE EFFORT V

1 tsp fresh yeast, or ½ tsp fast-action dried yeast 2 tbsp olive oil 450g organic strong white flour For the topping 3 medium waxy potatoes, thinly

sliced 2 tbsp olive oil, plus extra to serve 1 tsp turmeric 1 rosemary sprig, leaves picked and chopped, to serve

1 In a large bowl, dissolve the yeast in 350ml cold water and add the oil. Add the flour and 1 tsp salt and mix thoroughly with your hands to make a dough. Cover and leave in the fridge or a cool place overnight. 2 The next day, turn your dough out onto an oiled tray approx 30cm x 20cm. Using your fingertips, gently stretch the dough into a rectangle, then fold it in half. Rotate the dough 90 degrees and repeat the process. Leave to rest for 30 mins. Repeat this stretching, folding and resting process twice more. 3 Heat oven to 24OC/220C fan/gas 9. Gently stretch the dough to fill your tray. If it shrinks back, don’t force it – rest for 10 more mins, then try again. 4 Spread the potato slices over the dough, overlapping. Mix the olive oil with the turmeric and brush over, then sprinkle with sea salt and bake on the top shelf of the oven for 25-30 mins. When cooked, drizzle with a little more olive oil and scatter over the rosemary. GOOD TO KNOW vegan PER SERVING 211 kcals • fat 5g • saturates 1g • carbs 36g • sugars 1g • fibre 2g • protein 6g • salt 0.1g

TOM’S TIPS FOR MAKING PERFECT BREAD ! The wetter the dough, the better, as more liquid makes a lighter loaf. 

! When shaping your loaf on your table/sideboard, use as little extra flour as possible.

! Always preheat your oven to the correct temperature well before baking. 

! Mixing your dough using one hand helps avoid getting sticky dough all over your kitchen.

AUGUST 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 143

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Tech is destroying the joy of food g but we’ve lost the art of shoppin Yes, food apps are useful, Joanna Blythman. and dining face to face, says

L

more time in ike many people, I spend is good for me. front of a computer than of work, but my It’s inevitable in my line more of a problem. smartphone habit is even I need to have it by me: I can easily justify why le, and people expect a my work is unpredictab I’m honest, I check if Yet, days. these swift reply and emails more my social media accounts Recently, when I read frequently than I need to. had deleted all the an article by a woman who her phone because social media apps from an idiot’, I smugly ‘they were turning me into bad – yet’. But her thought, ‘Well, I’m not that thrill of the little red ‘Pavlovian reference to the did strike a guilty chord. circles of notifications’ to food, my habits are

I just feel that if I makes it so easy to do so. have no real sense of bought food this way, I’d resent websites that what’s in season. And I mind, that irritating think they can read my that’ approach. ‘If you like this you’ll like I don’t use an app or When I book a restaurant, (which will give the make an online booking marketing purposes) restaurant my email for How retro is that? The – I’ll pick up the phone. ordering restaurant apparent convenience of doesn’t appeal. food to be delivered at home but I like to eat Call me old-fashioned, and homerestaurant food in a restaurant cooked food at home. these days There’s a plethora of technology ever to give us di t d

LOW-TECH KITCHEN STARS

• Wooden chopping nicer

boards – much to look at and use than plastic, and infinitely harder-wearing. Pestle and mortar – great for smashing up garlic (add some salt to stop it slipping), and lightly crushing spices such as coriander and cumin to make them

•

more arom

star letter I read Joanna’s recent article Tech is destroying the joy of food (June) with great interest. I’m not averse to taking the odd foodie photo, but draw the line there. I never photograph my food when eating out and as a mother of two small children,

I have a rule of no electronics or TV while eating. In a world that seems to be lived and shared on-screen, it was refreshing to read that my ideas are not as old-school as I’d thought! Leoni Murrell, Swindon

GOOD FOOD EATS OUT

Every month, we ask Good Food fans to recommend great places to eat or shop in their area. Annie Williams loves The Sticky Walnut in Chester.

Leoni wins 12 bottles of Cune Barrel Fermented Blanco 2015 (£10.15, Waitrose). This is a white Rioja with fresh citrus flavours and a toasty richness. It makes the perfect partner to summer salads and picnics.

your recipes

#bbcgoodfood Lara has made our tuna & caper orzo with parsley (June) for a healthy midweek meal. @laraquarterman Check out Sian’s beautiful version of our June cover – Eton mess cheesecake. @siang283 Follow us on instagram at @bbcgoodfood

This magazine is owned by BBC Worldwide and produced on its behalf by Immediate Media Co. London Limited. © Immediate Media Company London Limited, 2017. BBC Worldwide’s profits are returned to the BBC for the benefit of the licence-fee payer. BBC Good Food provides trusted, independent advice and information that has been gathered without fear or favour. When receiving assistance or sample products from suppliers, we ensure our editorial integrity and independence are not compromised by never offering anything in return, such as positive coverage, and by including a brief credit where appropriate. We make every effort to ensure the accuracy of the prices displayed in BBC Good Food. However, they can change after we go to print. Please check with the appropriate retailer for full details. Printed by Wyndeham Group. The text paper for BBC Good Food is printed on 65gsm Galerie Brite and the cover is printed on 170gsm Galerie Art, produced by Sappi Paper. It is elementally chlorine

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The Sticky Walnut is a modern British restaurant, serving delicious, boundary-pushing dishes at reasonable prices. The pork belly is fantastic! Know somewhere good? A restaurant, market or great deli? Tell us what makes it stand out! Let us know on Facebook and Twitter with the hashtag #gfeatsout CORRECTION NOTICE Please be informed that in the July issue of BBC Good Food, it was incorrectly stated in the meat fondue recipe on page 79 that the temperature of the oil should be 375C. The correct temperature of the oil should be 375 Fahrenheit or 190C.

free and coated with china clay produced in the UK. Immediate Media Company is working to ensure that its paper is sourced from well-managed forests. This magazine can be recycled. Please dispose of it at your local collection point. We abide by IPSO’s rules and regulations. To give feedback about our magazines, visit bbcgoodfood.com, email [email protected] or write to Christine Hayes, Editor-in-chief, BBC Worldwide, Television Centre, 101 Wood Lane, London W12 7FA. BBC Good Food magazine is available in both audio and electronic formats from National Talking Newspapers and Magazines. For more information, please contact National Talking Newspapers and Magazines, National Recording Centre, Heathfield, East Sussex TN21 8DB; email [email protected]; or call 01435 866102. If you are enquiring on behalf of someone who has trouble with their sight, please consult them first.

opinion the new drink rules

Swap your bottle for a box

For our eco issue, Victoria Moore looks at how your glass of red or white could be greener

I

t takes 4kWh of energy – enough to power a television for a month – to make just one recycled wine bottle, a sobering thought even if you haven’t seen the size of my weekly trash mountain. This statistic was provided to me by new bag-in-box specialist When In Rome. ‘The melting point of glass is more than 1,000C – higher than that of aluminium or steel, which is why so much energy is needed,’ explains ’t

The best bag-in-boxes to drink at home still aren’t being sold in supermarkets or discount stores, which haven’t kept up with this trend. They are coming from boutique producers and importers. You can buy London’s St John’s restaurant own bag-in-box to take home or online (with a delivery charge). When In Rome specialises in by

Cono Sur Bicicleta Viognier 2016, Chile (£7, Morrisons) Visit Cono Sur and you’ll hear the honk of vineyard geese and see workers pedaling past on bikes. There’s a real commitment to sustainable agriculture there and their wine is great too – smooth and peachy, with a hint of starfruit and citrus.

What to eat with…

100% recyclable, reusable glass Were other readers baffled by Victoria Moore’s column in the May issue, comparing the environmental credentials of wine in bottles to wine in boxes?  Ms Moore claimed wine boxes are more sustainable than glass, but many of the arguments did not ring true. For example, she talked about ‘single-use bottles’ – but glass is 100% recyclable, and the plastic bags inside wine boxes can’t be recycled at all in the UK. Recyclable packaging reduces use of virgin raw materials – and the environmental impact of extraction. Furthermore, recycling glass reduces energy consumption and emissions of manufacturing. UK-made glass bottles contain on average 30% recycled material and up to 65% for green wine bottles. She also wrote of how long glass takes to ‘decompose’. Glass is made from non-toxic sand, lime and soda ash. If it goes to landfill, it breaks down and turns back into sand – harmless to the environment. Plastics can become chemically active as they decompose, causing problems for aquatic and wildlife. Readers should be reassured that when they buy wine in glass and recycle, they’re making an excellent, sustainable choice. Dr Nick Kirk Technical director, British Glass

Letters and other contributions may be cut or edited for publication.

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Your recipe

reader recipe

We love seeing your recipes, and uploading them to bbcgoodfood.com is a great way to show them off recipe MICHELLE HOLMES photograph MYLES NEW

Nanaimo bars SERVES 16 PREP 25 mins plus 2 hrs 20 mins chilling COOK 5 mins EASY V

For the biscuit base 125g softened butter 50g caster sugar 5 tbsp cocoa powder 1 egg, beaten 200g digestive biscuits, blitzed to crumbs 100g desiccated coconut 50g chopped almonds (optional)

For the custard icing 100g butter, softened 4 tbsp double cream 3 tbsp custard powder 250g icing sugar For the chocolate topping 150g dark chocolate 50g butter

1 Start by making the biscuit base. In a bowl, over a pan of simmering water, melt the butter with the sugar and cocoa powder, stirring occasionally until smooth. Whisk in the egg for 2 to 3 mins until the mixture has thickened. Remove from heat and mix in the biscuit crumbs, coconut and almonds if using, then press into the base of a lined 20cm square tin. Chill for 10 mins. 2 For the middle layer, make the custard icing; whisk together the butter, cream and custard powder until light and fluffy, then gradually add the icing sugar until fully incorporated. Spread over the bottom layer and chill in the fridge for at least 10 mins until the custard is no longer soft. 3 Melt the chocolate and butter together in the microwave, then spread over the chilled bars and put back in the fridge. Leave until the chocolate has fully set (about 2 hrs). Take the mixture out of the tin and slice into squares to serve. PER SERVING 415 kcals • fat 29g • saturates 18g • carbs 33g • sugars 23g • fibre 3g • protein 3g • salt 0.6g

Good Food reader Michelle Holmes

‘My mum made these Canadian classics (named after a Canadian town) when we were kids,’ says tree surgeon Michele, from New Zealand, who now lives in Kent. ‘My eldest made them at school, doing a project on Canada, so I got the recipe from my mum. They’re a firm family favourite and the kids are always wanting to make them!’

Got a recipe to share? Visit bbcfoodfood.com, create an account in My Good Food , and your recipe could be featured in print!

AUGUST 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 151

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Get the best from our recipes

Our recipes are triple-tested: we cook them all three times to ensure they work for you

! Always read the recipe

thoroughly before starting, and use standard measuring spoons for accuracy. ! Where possible, we use humanely reared British meats, free-range chicken and eggs, and sustainably sourced fish. ! We help you to avoid waste by using full packs, or suggesting how to use leftovers. ! If egg size is important, we’ll state it in the recipe. Helping you to eat well Our nutritional therapist analyses our recipes on a

per-serving basis, not including optional serving suggestions. You can compare these amounts with the Reference Intake (RI), the official amount an adult should consume daily: Energy 2,000 cals, Protein 50g, Carbohydrates 260g, Fat 70g, Saturates 20g, Sugar 90g, Salt 6g (please note, RIs for saturates, sugar and salt are maximum daily amounts). How we label our recipes Our vegetarian (V) or vegan recipes are clearly labelled, but check pack ingredients

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to ensure they’re suitable. If we say you can freeze a recipe (G), freeze it for up to three months unless otherwise stated. Defrost thoroughly and heat until piping hot. A low-fat recipe has 12g of fat or less per serving. A recipe is ‘healthy’ if it is low in saturated fat, with 5g or less per serving; low in salt, with 1.5g or less; and low in sugar, with 15g or less. A low-calorie recipe has 500 calories or less per main course, 150 calories or less for a dessert.

recipes always work We include the number of portions of fruit and/or veg in a serving, and the vitamins or nutrients that it contains. ! Please note that recipes created for Advertisement features are checked by our cookery team but not tested in the Good Food Test Kitchen. ! Our gluten-free recipes are free from gluten, but this may exclude serving suggestions. For more info, visit coeliac.org.uk. ! We regret that we are unable to answer individual medical/ nutritional queries.

72 new triple-tested recipes

this month’s recipes RECIPE KEY

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Suitable for freezing

Meat Cheesesteak hot dog 56 Grouse sausage rolls 11 Herdwick lamb with smoked eel & turnip 117 Korean hot dog 56 Lamb shank madras 102 Poached salt beef & new-season roots 100 The perfect croque monsieur 83 XO pork ribs 57

26 Sides, snacks & sauces BBQ corn cobs with Comté & herb butter 20 Chana masala 36 Coriander & mint raita 36 Polenta sweet potato fries with herby dip 60

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Cocktails, drinks & flavoured ice cubes

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Aperol ice cubes 7 Coffee ice cubes 6 Fro-yo ice cubes 7 Fruit ice cubes 6 Iced tea cooler 60 Herb & flower ice cubes 7 Hibiscus mezcal margarita 116 Mango lassi 38 Mini grapefruit & orange ice cubes 6 Olive & brine ice cubes 6 Rosé punch 15

Vegetarian mains Charred broccoli & cheat’s romesco toast 32 Chipotle corn salad 61 Egyptian egg salad 90 Feta & peach couscous 40 Gazpacho with runner bean tempura & pickled coriander seeds 21 Green masala eggs 27 Grilled aubergine, watermelon & sesame salad 58 Heritage tomato salad with ricotta, broad beans & salsa 18 Khatti dhal 108 Okra with tomato sauce & couscous 28 Rainbow pizzas 46 Roasted feta 40 Saag paneer 38 Tempura veg hot dog 56 The ultimate macaroni cheese 126 Tofu with chilli & greens 28

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Poultry Cheese, spinach & mushroom stuffed chicken 112 Chicken Provençal with olives & artichokes 100 Healthy Turkish meatloaf 91 Jerk chicken & pineapple traybake 30 Sali murghi 38

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Fish Blackened shrimp hot dog 56 Cornish crab with courgette 116 Crab & chive filo parcels 18 Crab roll hot dog 56 Fresh salmon with Thai noodle salad 92 Indian spiced salmon 110 Layered rainbow salad bowls 46 Prawn & beansprout omelette baguette 29 Quick sushi bowl 26 Red mullet with saffron baked orzo & broad beans 20 Rice paper wraps 47 Salmon with beetroot, feta & lime salsa 40 Spanish rice with squid, prawn & fennel 101 Surprise supper in a parcel 48 Tuna mayo wraps 93

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Baking & desserts Banana & date cake 95 Cereal milk ice lolly 64 MAKE OUR COVER RECIPE Club Tropicana ice cream cake 62 Fino & butter poached peaches with ginger pecan crunch 22 Lemon meringue parfait 34 Matcha froyo ice lolly 64 Nanaimo bars 151 Potato & turmeric focaccia 143 Raspberry & ginger fridge cake 41 Raspberry tea ice lolly 64 Rojak 108 Strawberries & cream 118 Super-easy fruit ice cream 48

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AUGUST 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 153

opinion

The Final Word

Sausage roll for pudding, anyone? Desserts should be treated with disdain, says Tony Naylor. Order another starter instead – chefs will thank you

L

ike the birth of a child or surviving a near-death experience, the first time you muster up the courage to order a second starter, instead of dessert, is – well, for we foodists at least – life-changing. I vividly remember the first time I crossed that Rubicon, at the Old Bore near Halifax, a pub sadly no longer with us (note: falling pudding sales were not a factor in its closure). My request for welsh rarebit rather than panna cotta was met with surprised, murmuring satisfaction by staff. They got it. This bloke knew his own mind. He would not be fobbed off with the frivolous razzle-dazzle of pudding. It felt liberating. A new maturity pulsed through my veins. I refuse to accept the bourgeois convention that I must order a dessert after my main – and what of it, world? Who can stop me? Well, chefs can, if they are cleaning down the kitchen and pastry is the only section still working. But generally, kitchens happily accommodate my requests for a late-night scotch egg or cheese soufflé. Why? Because many chefs share my dessert disdain. Desserts, they will tell you, lack the savoury realm’s complex flavours and potential for self-expression. They are an easy, sugar-laden win. Making them is, whisper it, a bit girly. Some of that is true, some of it (sexist) nonsense. Pastry is actually a highly technically demanding discipline and as Gareth Ward’s treacle tart at Ynyshir in Wales proves (it is made with miso, wagyu beef fat, blackened breadcrumbs), dessert can be seriously, gastronomically ambitious. But do I ever order one? Almost never. Crap desserts have become a self-fulfilling prophecy. In restaurants, the responsibility for pastry is often given to 154 bbcgoodfood.com AUGUST 2017

younger staff or handled, grudgingly, by someone who would rather be cooking the glamorous proteins. Naturally, quality suffers. Even when kitchens take pride in their desserts, they cannot get past the in-built restrictions of the form. Desserts operate in a relatively narrow spectrum of both flavours (how far can you take chocolate and cherries?) and textures (all those creamy dollops, from crème brûlée to Eton Mess). They lack the resonance and evolving interplay of savoury courses. That’s why pastry chefs spend so much time on the visual aspects of their craft: ornate sugar work, endless layers, edible gold. It is classic misdirection. In this case from the fact that their work, as we say at Naylor Towers (usually about doughnuts), ‘is not worth the calories’. Arguably, we have simply evolved past pudding. In 2017, we crave light, zippy, contrasting flavours. Who wants to finish a meal with sticky toffee pudding? Interestingly, a significant minority of new restaurants offer just one or two simple dessert options (tiny pastel de nata, say, or scoops of good ice cream). London’s Thai barbecue restaurant Kiln has ditched dessert entirely. Modern diners are not that bothered. Personally – the glories of a fine cheeseboard aside – I crave a revival of the savoury course, those salty, curried, on-toast snacks, such as scotch woodcock, that were served instead of dessert in 19th-century gentlemen’s clubs. When contemporary chefs have revisited the savoury course (RIP Will Holland’s hot cheese tarts at Ludlow’s La Bécasse), it has been amazing. Until then, I can only urge: join me. Order a sausage roll for dessert. Defy convention. It tastes incredible. Tony Naylor writes for Restaurant magazine and The Guardian. Do you agree with Tony? Let us know on Facebook and Twitter #bbcgfopinion

next month

Save the Great British curry house

Illustration BLEXBOLEX/ILLUSTRISSIMO | Portrait DAVID COTSWORTH

@naylor_tony

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