October 2017
Let’s get
October 2017
Britain’s biggest-selling food magazine
Our favourite British puddings reinvented
●IPA treacle tart
Black pudding & apple croquetas • Easy chocolate cake • Chard, preserved lemon & fresh cheese pie
●Black forest
arctic roll ● Roly-poly choc pud
Share our pear & blackberry pie this weekend, p60
6 Half-term
hideaways
bbcgoodfood.com
SCARE THE KIDS!
easiest ever
33
autumn recıpes
José Pizarro’s simple
Spanish suppers
NEW-WAVE
comfort food
homemade Halloween
● Spider pizzas ● Monster cupcakes ● Bloody toffee apples
Welcome to October The results of our annual Good Food Nation Survey* show that our appetite for comfort food never ends. We still love retro classics like rice pudding and trifle, but what we define as ‘comfort food’ is changing. While fish pie and macaroni cheese will always have a special place in our hearts, now we’re as likely to turn to a bowl of fragrant ramen when we want something warm and reassuring. Taking it to the next level, innovative UK chefs are creating new globally inspired comfort dishes – Newcastle’s The Patricia, for example, uses epoisses and preserved cherries to create a grown-up cheese toastie, and there’s a hint of nostalgia – a big factor in comfort food – in Sprout’s Hobnobs cheesecake. We’ve highlighted 31 of these new-wave comfort foods on page 76. Plus, we’ve reimagined six classic puddings: treacle tart with a boozy kick of IPA, and chocolate roly-poly. If you make any of our recipes, we’d love to see them on Instagram – tag #bbcgoodfood and we’ll share the best. See you next issue to get ahead for Christmas (it comes with a free 2018 calendar), on sale 26 October.
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See page 90 for details, and use code GFR4 to claim your discount (T&Cs apply). KEEP IN TOUCH Call 020 8433 3983 (Mon-Fri 9.30am-5.30pm) Email hello@bbcgoodfood magazine.com Write to us at the addresses on page 157 Visit bbcgoodfood.com Follow facebook.com/ bbcgoodfood, Instagram and Twitter @bbcgoodfood
Christine Hayes Editor-in-chief @bbcgoodfood @chrishayesUK
FREE
with this issue The Good Food comfort collection – 50 classic autumn recipes**
*The 2017 BBC Good Food Nation Trends Report is a summary of our annual survey of 5,000 nation British adults. Now in its fourth year, it presents an unparalleled portrait of our relationship with food in terms of health, social media, technology, travel, family and trends. For the full report, go to bit.ly/2wLoTW7
Portrait CHARLIE EDWARDS | ** UK subscribers only
Star contributors Nigella Lawson
try our cover recipe p60
Back with her new BBC TV series and new book, Nigella shares her recipe for Bonfire Night sausages on page 15.
Chloe Scott-Moncrieff
Food writer Chloe has interviewed culinary legends from René Redzepi to Heston Blumenthal. She discovers the new-wave comfort food dishes destined to become modern classics on p76. OCTOBER 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 3
contents
Why you can trust BBC Good Food is the UK’s No 1 food lifestyle media brand. We are passionate about food and cooking. While recipes are at the heart of what we do, we are committed to helping you to have the best food experience you can, whether you are shopping for food, in your kitchen or eating out in the UK or abroad. This is what we promise… Biggest and best We’re proud to be Britain’s biggest-selling food magazine and the UK’s No 1 food website, bbcgoodfood.com. Our contributors – BBC chefs, our in-house cookery team and confident, outspoken columnists – are experts in their fields. Meet us at the UK’s biggest food shows (visit bbcgoodfoodshow.com for dates and details). Our best-selling cookbooks feature our trusted recipes – you’ll find these in bookshops. Recipes for everyone There are 70 new recipes in every issue – that’s more than any other food magazine in Britain. We always include quick, easy dishes, ideas for relaxed entertaining, and more challenging recipes for when you want to take your skills up a notch. Look out for our regular easiest-ever recipes. Tested and trusted All our recipes are triple-tested – once by the writer or chef, once or twice in the Good Food Test Kitchen, and again on the photo shoot – so they’ll work first time for you. We put our gadgets through a rigorous testing process and carry out our taste tests fairly. Our restaurant and travel recommendations have all been tried by one of us. Ethical and altruistic We care about the food we eat, the people who produce it and the effect this has on the world. In our Test Kitchen, we use humanely reared British meats, free-range chicken and eggs, and sustainable fish whenever possible. We aim to help you avoid food waste, with advice on using leftovers (tune in to Facebook Live to see our #Fridayfood challenge, when we use up Test Kitchen leftovers). Healthy eating Every recipe is analysed by our nutritional therapist, so you can be informed when you choose what to eat. We flag up vegetarian, vegan and gluten-free recipes. Find out more about our health philosophy on page 160. Families and children Families can need help to create harmonious mealtimes, so we address this by flagging up ‘family’ recipes. We encourage children and teenagers to get cooking with recipes that help them to learn new skills. Find out more at bbcgoodfood.com/recipes/category/family-kids. Eating like a local One of the joys of travel – across the UK and overseas – is discovering great food. Our features are written from an insider perspective by on-theground writers and food and travel journalists. Independent and respected As you’d expect from a BBC brand, we are impartial and independent, so you can trust our advice and recommendations on everything from restaurants and wine to kitchen gadgets and more. We encourage your input on your local finds, and appreciate your feedback on our recommendations. Food is our passion and pleasure We take food seriously, but we also believe it’s a pleasure to be enjoyed and celebrated, whether cooking for the family, trying an unfamiliar ingredient, choosing wine, buying new products or eating out. We share our food discoveries and adventures with you – and love you to share the same with us daily on Facebook, Twitter, Instagram and Snapchat.
4 bbcgoodfood.com OCTOBER 2017
October 2017
update 6
16
UPDATE Our best buys, five must-try
toastie recipes and a Bonfire Night recipe from Nigella Lawson SEASON’S BEST Rosie Birkett makes the most of autumnal ingredients
easiest ever 26 36 38 43 45 48
MIDWEEK Simple everyday
recipes, ready in no time RIDICULOUSLY EASY
Quick-fix fettucine alfredo INSTANT EXPERT An easy and impressive Chinese main to share DINNER DASH Four-ingredient meals to make using butternut squash EASY BAKES Make our foolproof chocolate sponge HALLOWEEN A scary party spread that's simple to make
106
comfort 59 71 76
Our favourite comforting retro puddings reinvented PLUS Our wine expert Victoria Moore explains why she still loves unfashionable wines Find out how a new generation of chefs are changing the face of comfort food
opinion 83 85 86 88 162
TONY NAYLOR REVIEWS What did
our contributing editor think of the charcuterie hotspot, Ham & Friends? STOP SUPERSIZING! Joanna Blythman explains why we should give up on the oversized sweets trend HOW WE EAT NOW Emma Freud knows the tips and tricks for making high-street takeaways at home FOOD MILESTONES DJ and presenter Sara Cox shares her food memories THE LAST WORD Our columnist Tony Naylor reveals the food trends we should keep and the ones we should ditch
48 116
Let’s get
this month’s recipe index
MAKE OUR COVER RECIPE, p60 Recipe Cassie Best & Miriam Nice Photograph Peter Cassidy Food stylist Katy Gilhooly Stylist Sarah Birks
COOK THE COVER & SHARE YOUR PHOTOS
#bbcgoodfood #cookthecover
health
95 96 101
HEALTH NEWS Quick tips
to help you feel good SLOW COOKING Nutritious curries, ready for when you get home START THE DAY Prep the night before for a healthy breakfast
weekend 106 110 116 120 124
SUNDAY ROAST Try something new
with recipes from Tom Kerridge STAR INGREDIENT Diana Henry experiments with sherry MASTERCHEF MAKEOVER John Torode’s Chinese beef hotpot EAT OUT OR EAT IN A menu for four from Magpie to try at home CATALAN CUISINE José Pizarro's authentic Spanish recipes
test kitchen 129
How to make the ultimate fish pie, plus our guide to home brewing
eat like a local 135 138 140 146
HOW TO LIVE IN Food and drink
hotspots in Sonoma County INSIDER The best places to eat and drink in York 6 QUICK TRIPS We pick our top half-term hideaways FOOD AND FARMING A look at Oliver's Cider & Perry
62
Comforting retro puddings made even more indulgent
every issue 72 90 144 148 157 159 161
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BEST OF THE BBC
NIGELLA LAWSON Cumberland sausage
with apples & onions, p15 JOANNA BLYTHMAN Supersizing sweets, p85 EMMA FREUD How we eat now, p86 SARA COX Food milestones, p88 TOM KERRIDGE Sunday roasts, p106 JOHN TORODE MasterChef makeover, p116 FOOD AND FARMING AWARDS p146
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OCTOBER 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 5
News, trends, buys, events and the best of the BBC this month
FLAVOUR OF THE MONTH
recipes MIRIAM NICE photographs EMMA BOYNS hat’s wrong with ‘cheese toastie?’ I hear you cry. Well, you’re right, they’re pretty similar – bread, butter, melted cheese... but these stateside sarnies take the cheese toastie to the next level. They’re fried for a start (so for now, your sandwich maker is safe in the loft) and the range of fillings take inspiration from all over the globe. This more-is-more trend isn’t going anywhere. First overloaded burgers and outlandish cream and cookie-topped milkshakes to what is essentially an entire meal sandwiched between two golden slices of fried artisanal bread. What’s not to love? (Just try not to look at the nutritional analysis). If you went to a new farmer’s market, trendy wedding or festival this year, you probably spotted at least one grilled cheese van. Even high-end gastro pub The Wigmore from Michel Roux Jr has an ‘XXL stovetop cheese toastie’ on the menu (they mean grilled cheese). Perhaps it will always be a cheese toastie in your heart too. But, however you feel about the name – and indeed the calories – there’s no denying their magical deliciousness, reserved only for very special occasions (my inner hipster would like to stress how well they go with craft beer too). You could also serve them in really small squares as the best canapés ever.
SERVES 1-2 PREP 10 mins COOK 10 mins EASY
Mix 2 tbsp ricotta with 1 tbsp grated parmesan and 50g mozzarella. Take 2 thick slices white bread and spread the cheese mixture over one of them. Top with 25g gorgonzola broken into pieces, then close the sandwich with another slice of bread. Spread the outsides of the sandwich, top and bottom, with 1 tbsp mayonnaise. Fry the sandwich in 1 tbsp butter for 3-4 mins each side, pressing the sandwich down gently with your spatula as it cooks to make sure it melts evenly inside and stays together. GOOD TO KNOW calcium PER SERVING (2) 447 kcals • fat 33g • saturates 14g • carbs 20g • sugars 3g • fibre 1g • protein 16g • salt 1.5g
6 bbcgoodfood.com OCTOBER 2017
SERVES 1-2 PREP 15 mins COOK 20 mins EASY
Cook 50g macaroni following pack instructions. Drain and mix with 25g grated red Leicester, 25g grated smoked cheese, 50ml double cream, 1 tsp maple syrup and 1 pinch smoked paprika. Season well, leave to cool, then put in the fridge to firm up. Take 2 slices of sourdough bread and spread one with smoky barbecue sauce. Pile in the cold macaroni cheese, then close the sandwich and butter the outside generously. Fry in a dry pan for 4-5 mins on each side or until deep golden brown on the outside. PER SERVING (2) 455 kcals • fat 26g • saturates 16g • carbs 40g • sugars 6g • fibre 3g • protein 13g • salt 1.3g
update
SERVES 1 PREP 10 mins COOK 40 mins EASY
Boil 1 peeled potato for 20 mins, drain and leave to cool. Fry 50g bacon lardons in a non-stick pan until crisp, then drain on kitchen paper. Take 2 slices of sourdough bread and spread one with 1 tbsp crème fraîche, season and sprinkle with a pinch caraway seeds. Top with 50g grated gruyère and the lardons. Slice the potato over the top and cover with 2-3 tbsp sauerkraut, 25g sliced reblochon or camembert, then close the sandwich with the other slice of bread. Fry the sandwich in 1 tsp sunflower oil and 1 tsp butter for 3-4 mins on each side. GOOD TO KNOW calcium PER SERVING 864 kcals • fat 59g • saturates 32g • carbs 46g • sugars 3g • fibre 4g • protein 36g • salt 3.9g
SERVES 1 PREP 5 mins COOK 5 mins EASY V
Mix 50g ricotta with 1 tsp honey, then spread over the cut sides of 1 toasted cinnamon raisin bagel or 2 pieces fruit bread. Top one side with 1 tsp blackcurrant jam and 1 sliced fig, then crumble 1 sesame snap over the top before closing the sandwich. GOOD TO KNOW 1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 590 kcals • fat 17g • saturates 4g • carbs 92g • sugars 25g • fibre 4g • protein 16g • salt 1.0g
SERVES 1 PREP 10 mins COOK 55 mins EASY
Heat oven to 190C/170C fan/gas 5. Tip 100g chopped butternut squash onto a tray and drizzle over 2 tsp olive oil and 1 tbsp tamarind paste. Toss together and roast in the oven for 45 mins, or until soft. Tip 160g bag baby spinach into a colander set over the sink, pour over boiling water until wilted, then leave to cool. Once cool enough to handle, squeeze out the excess water, then roughly chop. Take 2 thick slices of white bread and spread one with butter and the other side with a very thin layer of tamarind paste. Pile the spinach and cooked squash on top of the buttered side, then add 2 tbsp grated mozzarella and 1 tbsp grated cheddar. Dot with a splash of hot sauce, season and add a pinch allspice, then close the sandwich. Fry the sandwich in 1 tbsp butter for 3-4 mins each side or until the cheese has melted and the bread is golden. GOOD TO KNOW calcium • folate • fibre • vit c • iron • 2 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 766 kcals • fat 46g • saturates 24g • carbs 61g • sugars 14g • fibre 7g • protein 24g • salt 2.5g
OCTOBER 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 7
BEHIND THE TREND
Sourdough pizza IN THE BEGINNING We’ve long been a nation of pizza lovers, but the pizza bases in restaurants and supermarkets are usually made using a traditional pizza dough (made from flour, yeast, oil and seasoning). THEN In 2008, Franco Manca opened in London’s Brixton, making delicious wood-fired pizzas with a sourdough base. Founder Giuseppe Mascoli explains why: ‘Sourdough is simply better. It’s traditional, while commercial yeast is a newer ingredient. With sourdough, you have longer fermentation and a slow rise. In this
process, the starch disappears and the proteins are pre-digested so you end up with a highly digestible product. You can really taste the flavours hidden in the flour’. NOW Franco Manca rapidly expanded thanks to the popularity of its authentictasting pizzas, thoughtfully sourced ingredients and low price. Several independent pizzerias followed suit. TRY IT YOURSELF Franco Manca currently has 40 sites in London and the South-East, or try Flour & Ash (Bristol), VIP (Brighton) or Double Zero Pizzeria (Manchester).
Pumpkin spice
A warming mix of spices used in pumpkin pie and famously added to Starbucks’ Pumpkin spice lattes, pumpkin spice has made its way into our cakes and bakes. Try Emma Freud’s pumpkin & caramel cake – visit bbcgoodfood. com/recipes/pumpkincaramel-cake for the recipe.
• @ANNALAWSONEATS
s
@HELENRP20
s
Day of the Dead
Halloween food in the UK is starting to be influenced by Mexico’s Day of the Dead festival (Día de Los Muertos, 2 November), with intricate skull designs appearing on cakes, cookies and even chocolate (see p13).
Sri Lankan cuisine
@FLOURANDASH
s
@NAHLAZEITON
Cosy reds for winter As winter draws in, it’s the perfect time for bold, warming reds like this oak-aged Spanish rioja. Dinastía Manzanos have been making wine for 120 years but this is not a traditional rioja. Though it’s made
wine in partnership with
from tempranillo, the archetypal rioja grape, it’s closer to Bordeaux in style with its dense dark fruit and spicy savoury oak. It’s full-bodied, rich and ripe flavours go well with roast beef or lamb. This wine is included in our reds case this month (there’s also a mixed case on offer) – turn to page 118 for details.
8 bbcgoodfood.com OCTOBER 2017
s
Interest in Sri Lankan cuisine has exploded this year, with exciting new restaurants opening across the country, including Hoppers in London and Sigiriya in Hale.
• Retro puds
As the cold weather sets in, we’re feeling nostalgic for cosy retro puddings, from jam roly-polys to traditional fruit pies. For our cosy puds with a twist, turn to page 59.
Words ANNA LAWSON | Photographs GETTY IMAGES, GEORGIA GLYNN-SMITH
•
update HAVE YOU TRIED...
There are so many ways to enjoy Good Food
…salsify?
Here at Good Food HQ, we’re always trying weird and wonderful new food and drink products and unusual seasonal ingredients. This month, we shine the spotlight on a little-known vegetable… What is it? Salsify is a root vegetable belonging to the dandelion family. It’s also known as oyster plant because of its (arguably) oysterlike taste when cooked. Similar in appearance to parsnip and horseradish, the root has creamy white flesh and a thick skin. When can I get hold of it? Right now! Salsify season starts in October and continues up to January.
GF’S HOMEMADE CHRISTMAS Plan ahead for the festive season with our new guide to edible crafts, easiest-ever turkey dinners and showstopper desserts. On sale now, £5.99.
Where can I eat it? You won’t find it in supermarkets, but you’ll see it on restaurant menus and in certain greengrocers throughout autumn/winter. Okay, so if I can get my hands on it then how do I cook it? In the same way as many root vegetables, salsify can be roasted, boiled, mashed or used in soups and stews. We love it grated and fried in fritters.
Black Forest Christmas fool
TV EDITOR’S PICKS
What’s cooking across the BBC
GF SHOWS Discover a BBC Good Food Show near you – find out more on page 90. Readers save 20% on tickets! GOOD FOOD ON YOUR PHONE OR TABLET Download our interactive app at the Apple App Store. HOW-TO VIDEOS Sharpen your skills with our cookery videos. Find over 200 recipes and techniques at bbcgood food.com/feature/videos.
October 2017
Mary’s back with a new show, and you can take part!
THE FOOD PROGRAMME Tea, dinner, supper? At the table or in front of the TV? How we eat says much about us. In a fascinating four-part series, Sheila Dillon looks at how we eat, starting on Sunday 1 October with a programme on eating alone, secret snacking, ready meals for one and the pleasure of solitary cooking. Sundays at 12.30pm (repeated on Mondays at 3.30pm). BRITAIN’S BEST COOK Are you a whizz in the kitchen, constantly dreaming up new dishes and impressing family and friends with your creations? The BBC are now looking for contestants for a new prime-time series on BBC One next year, Britain’s Best Cook, judged by Mary Berry. Applications close on 31 October. To apply, visit bbc.co.uk/ showsandtours/takepart. Kathryn Custance
OUT & ABOUT
1-31 OCTOBER London Restaurant Festival, londonrestaurantfestival.com • 14-15 OCTOBER Monmouthshire Food Festival, Caldicot Castle, monmouthshirefoodfestival.co.uk • 20-22 OCTOBER BBC Good Food Show Glasgow, bbcgoodfoodshow.com/glasgow • 20-22 OCTOBER Dartmouth Food Festival, dartmouthfoodfestival.com
OCTOBER 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 9
SKINTED V MINTED
Grill something SKINTED George Foreman 4-portion Family Health Grill, £19.99, amazon.co.uk A good buy for health-conscious students, this bargain grill is easy to use and maintain, thanks to its highly non-stick coating which can be wiped clean. When cooking meat, the fat and grease are collected in the removable drip tray, making it a healthier option than pan-frying.
MINTED Tefal OptiGrill+ health grill, £126, Currys This multifunctional grill cooks everything from sandwiches to steaks, with different programmes for each. It cleverly recognises the thickness of meats such as steak, and will beep to indicate rare, medium etc, ensuring perfect results without any guesswork. The sloped grill means oil or fat drains into the drip tray resulting in healthier cooking.
Himalayan
Sukuti (sookh-tea) A way of preserving meat in an area where refrigeration is often extremely unreliable. The meat is first cooked in spices before fully drying out and storing. Paneer A fresh unsalted white cheese made by heating milk and lemon juice to form curds before straining and pressing through a muslin cloth. Paneer has a mild milky flavour and a dense, smooth texture which makes it perfect with the spices from the Himalayan region. Newari (Nepalese) pickles An essential part of most Himalayan meals and a way of preserving fresh fruits and vegetables for months where they may not be available. Nepalese pickles are a total flavour revelation spanning from cucumber and radishes to ginger and lemon.
Momos These streamed dumplings are found everywhere throughout the Himalayas, but are most popular in Tibet and Nepal. In a similar way to Japanese gyoza, the dumplings are stuffed with spiced meat and vegetables and shallow fried. Naga Chilli From Nagaland in North Eastern India, Naga Chillis are some of the spiciest in the world. Whole chillies are often cooked with beef and served with potatoes and plain rice. Thukpa Meaning ‘noodle’ in Tibetan, this is a warming traditional soup eaten throughout the Himalayas in the winter months and is often served alongside momos. Timur A Nepalese pepper from the same family as Sichuan peppers but with intense grapefruit notes that has a numbing effect on the tongue. Tangra An area located in Kolkata housing large tanneries and restaurants traditionally run by descendents of Chinese people. It is known for being the only real Chinatown in India, there you can find specialities such as sweet and spicy pork sausages served with a variety of pickles and dipping sauces.
Books for cooks Comfort by John Whaite (£19.99, Kyle) Full of cosy recipes, this book by 2012 Bake Off winner John Whaite is perfect for when the weather turns. Clever twists on dishes elevate them to dinner-party worthy standard, from Indian shepherd’s pie with a sag aloo top to tartiflette pizza (hello double carbs). Our must-try recipe Pecan, cranberry & dark chocolate pie
10 bbcgoodfood.com OCTOBER 2017
River Cafe 30 by Ruth Rogers, Sian Wyn Owen & Joseph Trivelli (£28, Ebury Press) London’s iconic River Cafe restaurant turned 30 this year, and to celebrate, they’ve updated 90 recipes from the best-selling 1994 River Café Cookbook and written 30 new ones, making this a bible for fans of modern Italian food. Our must-try recipe Spaghetti al limone
Feasts by Sabrina Ghayour (£20, Mitchell Beazley) This new collection from the queen of Persian cookery makes entertaining a doddle. There are menu ideas for all occasions built around her flavour-packed Middle Eastern sharing food, whether it’s piles of colourful vegetables, spiced pies or marinated meat. Our must-try recipe Pork & fennel baklava
Book reviews FIONA FORMAN | Skinted v minted ANNA LAWSON
Each month we explore a restaurant trend, explaining its key dishes and ingredients. This month, Harneet Baweja, founder of Madame D in London’s Spitalfields (madame-d.com), explains what you need to know about Himalayan cuisine, which is a fusion of Chinese, Nepalese, Tibetan and Indian.
update
NEW SERIES
This month, drinks expert Alice Lascelles gives us the perfect way to make a Manhattan. But don’t stop there, once you’ve mastered the original try one of her three suggestions below and start making this classic your own photograph EMMA BOYNS
Sweet Manhattan
The Manhattan, like all the best classics, is a very simple formula – just whiskey, vermouth and bitters. But it’s a formula that you can tinker with endlessly. However you make it, though, it always lets the spirit shine through, which is why the Manhattan has always been a real whiskey-lover’s drink. SERVES 1 PREP 5 mins NO COOK EASY V
50ml bourbon or rye whiskey 25ml rosso vermouth 5ml syrup from a jar of maraschino cherries (I used Luxardo) 2 dashes angostura bitters ice for the garnish maraschino cherry a twist of pared lemon
Stir the ingredients with ice in a mixing glass, then strain into a cocktail glass. Garnish and serve. GOOD TO KNOW gluten-free PER SERVING 163 kcals • fat none • saturates none • carbs 3g • sugars 3g • fibre none • protein none • salt none
next month
Food stylist ELENA SILCOCK | Stylist FAYE WEARS
Cosmopolitan
3 TWISTS O Reverse Manhattan If you find
O Manhattan on the rocks The
O Cynar Manhattan Cynar
traditional Manhattans a bit strong, you may prefer this lighter version which sees the whiskey and vermouth swap places. This will probably result in a slightly sweeter drink, so leave out the syrup to start with, and see how you go.
Manhattan is usually served ‘up’ in a cocktail glass. But if you fancy slumming it a bit, you could also try it over ice in a tumbler. A Manhattan on the rocks is great with barbecued meat – especially a really sloppy burger.
(pronounced chee-nar) is an Italian artichoke liqueur which tastes a bit like a chocolatey, smoky rosso vermouth. Just make your usual recipe but instead of using rosso vermouth, use a mix of rosso and Cynar.
Alice Lascelles is a drinks columnist for the Financial Times and the author of Ten Cocktails: The Art of Convivial Drinking (£16.99, Saltyard). @alicelascelles
OCTOBER 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 11
update
70S orange/brown teapot, £29.50, and mug, £10, abodeliving.co.uk
Day of the Dead Skull Bars, £7.50 each (115g), chococo.co.uk
Parlane blue sweep deep oven-to-table baking dish, £25, trouva.com
Tescoma Halloween Cookie Cutters, £10.38, amazon.co.uk
Our top buys for autumn Klara tea towel, £12,etsy.com
Ferm Living circle outline trivet, £17, amara.com
Dorset cereals gently spiced carrot & apple muesli, £3.99, Sainsbury’s
Olley Pottery cornflower field small milk jug, £25, etsy.com
OCTOBER 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 13
On our radar this month
Find out which food and drink products have tickled our taste buds this month… World of Zing jalapeño, apple & cucumber table sauce, £4.25, ocado.com This bright, punchy sauce combines the fresh taste of cucumber, sweet apple and spicy jalapeño. It’s great with meat or fish, or drizzled onto nachos, tacos and other Mexican dishes. Or try a dash in your bloody mary!
Grandpa’s apple & cinnamon crisps by Calsway, £15.99 for six packs, amazon.co.uk These air-dried apple pieces dusted with cinnamon make a super healthy snack.
Mallard breasts, £5, M&S These British mallard breasts are quick and easy to cook – simply pan-fry. We served them with salad leaves, goat’s cheese, blackberries and hazelnuts.
Cointreau blood orange, £17, Waitrose We love the new blood orange flavour from Cointreau (maybe even more than the original). It’s tangy and not too sweet, so it’s great in a cosmo.
update
BBC CHEFS
A recipe for Bonfire Night sausages from the culinary icon In her latest BBC series, Nigella shares the food she cooks for family and friends. She says: ‘What matters most in life is the connections we have with each other, and food is always at the heart of this.’ Her new BBC Two series, Nigella: At My Table, and accompanying book very much reflect this, with
feel-good welcoming dishes including old family favourites along with fresh takes on classics. As ever, Nigella provides inspiration for that important, everyday question ‘What are we going to eat?’ with simple flavour-packed recipes and shortcuts that make life easier without sacrificing taste.
Cumberland sausage with apples & onions There is nothing more comfortingly old-fashioned than sausages with apples and onions. This is what my maternal grandmother, who otherwise had an enthusiasm for what my grandfather disparagingly referred to as Landscape Cookery, would give to us when, exhausted by her grandchildren, she hadn’t the energy for anything fancier. I adore the plump whorls of pepperyspiced Cumberland sausage, but you can just as easily substitute 12 good-quality butcher’s sausages. It is not advisable to make ahead/store. SERVES 4-6 PREP 15 mins COOK 1 hr EASY
Portrait HUGO BURNAND
3 tbsp olive oil 2 tsp yellow mustard seeds 1 tsp dried thyme 2 red onions (about 300g), peeled, halved, then each half cut into 6 wedges 4 Gala apples, quartered, cored, then each quarter halved lengthways 1 tsp sea salt flakes 4 Cumberland sausage rings (250g each)
1 Heat oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Put the oil, mustard seeds and thyme in a large, shallow roasting tin, add the onion and apple pieces, sprinkle the salt over and give everything a good turn to coat well. 2 Push some of the spiced onions and apples aside to create space for the sausage rings to sit on the bottom of the tin. Sit the sausage rings in the spaces allocated, then turn them so that they’re lightly oiled on both sides. 3 Cook in the oven for 50-60 mins – though start checking at 45 – until the sausages are cooked through and the onions and apples are soft and caramelising at the edges. GOOD TO KNOW fibre • 1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING (6) 652 kcals • fat 50g • saturates 16g • carbs 26g • sugars 15g • fibre 7g • protein 21g • salt 2.8g
&
Nigella: At My Table starts on BBC Two in November
Recipe adapted from At My Table by Nigella Lawson (£26, Chatto & Windus). © Nigella Lawson. Photographs © Jonathan Lovekin 2017.
OCTOBER 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 15
SEASON’S BEST
Get cosy this October with these hearty and creative seasonal dishes recipes ROSIE BIRKETT photographs DAVID MUNNS
Good Food contributing editor Rosie Birkett is a food writer and stylist. Her cookbook, A Lot on Her Plate, is out now (£25, Hardie Grant). @rosiefoodie
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Madeira-roast quince fool, p18
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Celeriac & cavolo nero colcannon with thyme & bacon crumb, p18
Pheasant braised with leeks, cider & apples, p18 OCTOBER 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 17
Celeriac & cavolo nero colcannon with thyme & bacon crumb SERVES 4 PREP 10 mins COOK 25 mins EASY
1 celeriac, peeled and chopped 50g butter ½ leek, finely sliced 100g cavolo nero, de-stemmed and sliced ½ lemon, juiced splash of olive oil 2 rashers of streaky bacon, very finely chopped 4 thyme sprigs, leaves picked 50g rye sourdough bread, blitzed to a coarse crumb 50ml double cream grating of fresh nutmeg
1 Put the celeriac in a deep pan, cover with water and add 1 tbsp salt. Cover with a lid and bring to the boil, cooking for about 20 mins until tender. Meanwhile, melt half the butter in a frying pan and fry the leek with a pinch of salt and pepper for about 10 mins until softened. Add the cavolo nero and a squeeze of lemon juice and fry for a further few mins until tender. 2 Scrape the contents into a bowl and add a splash of olive oil to the pan. Fry the bacon and thyme until the bacon is crispy. Add the breadcrumbs and fry until toasted, being careful not to burn them. 3 When the celeriac is cooked, drain and allow to steam in the colander for 1 min or so, then transfer to a food processor and lightly blitz until you have a fairly chunky mash. Add the cream and the rest of the butter, season with salt, pepper and a grating of nutmeg and blitz again. Check for seasoning, transfer to a bowl and fold through the cabbage and leek mix. Top with the crispy crumb and serve. GOOD TO KNOW 1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 274 kcals • fat 22g • saturates 12g • carbs 13g • sugars 1g • fibre 2g • protein 5g • salt 1.7g
SERVES 2-4 PREP 10 mins COOK 50 mins MORE EFFORT
2 tbsp olive oil 2 large pheasants, jointed 2 leeks, washed, trimmed and sliced 2 rashers of smoked streaky bacon 3 sprigs of thyme, leaves picked 2 Bramley apples, thickly sliced 2 tbsp brandy or calvados 800ml dry cider 300ml chicken or game stock 70ml double cream ½ tsp mace or ground nutmeg 50g skinless roasted hazelnuts, roughly chopped for the pickled apples 1 tsp sea salt 1 tsp caster sugar 2 tbsp cider vinegar 2 juniper berries, crushed ½ Bramley apple, peeled, cubed
1 For the pickled apples, put the salt, sugar, vinegar and berries in a small pan and bring to the boil. Remove from the heat, add the apple cubes and set aside. 2 Heat the oil in a heavy-bottomed, high-sided casserole and season the pheasant joints with salt. Brown them all over, rendering out some of the yellow fat into the pan. Remove to a plate and season with pepper. Add the leeks, bacon and thyme to the pan along with a pinch of salt and a good grind of black pepper, and fry until the leeks have softened – about 8 mins. Add the apple slices and cook until starting to colour on both sides. 3 Spoon in the brandy and cook until evaporated, add the cider and simmer for a few more mins to cook off the alcohol. Pour in the stock and bring to the boil. Reduce to a gentle simmer and add the pheasant joints back to the pan, covering with a circle of baking parchment. 4 After 15 mins, remove the breasts from the pan to a plate and return the circle of baking parchment to the pan. Cook gently for a further 20 mins, then remove all the pheasant pieces from the pan to a plate and turn the heat up to reduce the sauce. Boil hard for a few min until reduced, then stir in the cream and mace and turn off the heat. Return the pheasant pieces to the sauce - the residual heat will warm it perfectly. 5 Divide the pheasant between plates and spoon over the sauce. Garnish with the pickled apples and hazelnuts. Serve with the celeriac colcannon. GOOD TO KNOW iron • 1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 874 kcals • fat 52g • saturates 17g • carbs 16g • sugars 15g • fibre 4g • protein 66g • salt 2.2g
Madeira-roast quince fool SERVES 4 PREP 10 mins COOK 40 mins EASY
2 large quince, peeled and sliced 100g sugar 1 vanilla bean, seeds scraped out 1 orange, zested ½ lemon, juiced 300ml madeira 350ml double cream 150ml Greek yogurt handful of toasted hazelnuts
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1 Heat oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4. Arrange the quince in a greased roasting tin or casserole and scatter over the sugar and vanilla seeds, throwing the pod in too. Add the orange zest and lemon juice, and pour over the madeira and 100ml water. Cover with foil and roast for 25-30 mins until the quince are pink and very tender. 2 leave to cool, then blitz half the quince into a purée and finely chop the other half. Reduce the roasting juice in the pan to a syrup. Stir the purée and finely chopped quince together. Whip the cream to soft peaks and fold through the greek yogurt and a little of the syrup. Layer in glasses with the quince mix and syrup. Chop a few hazelnuts to sprinkle on top and serve. GOOD TO KNOW 1 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING 766 kcals • fat 56g • saturates 32g • carbs 40g • sugars 33g • fibre 2g • protein 5g • salt 0.4g
Shoot director RACHEL BAYLY | Food stylist ROSIE BIRKETT | Stylist VICTORIA ALLEN
Pheasant braised with leeks, cider & apples
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Squash, sage & sourdough bake SERVES 4-6 PREP 20 mins COOK 45 mins MORE EFFORT
1 butternut squash, peeled, cut in half down the middle, seeds removed and sliced into semi circles 2 tbsp olive oil thyme sprig 1 tbsp butter bunch of sage, leaves picked 1 onion, chopped 1 garlic clove, crushed generous pinch of dried red chilli flakes ½ lemon, zested 100g sourdough breadcrumbs 200ml milk 2 eggs 50ml double cream 25g grated parmesan 25g grated pecorino (or use all parmesan) handful of pumpkin seeds
1 Heat oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. In a roasting tin, toss the squash with 1 tbsp olive oil, salt, pepper and the thyme leaves. Cover the tin with foil and roast for 30 mins until the squash is tender. 2 Heat the remaining olive oil with the butter until the butter has melted and is foaming slightly. Throw in the sage leaves and cook for a couple of mins until crisp, then add the onion, garlic, chilli flakes and lemon zest. Cook, stirring, for about 8 mins, until the onion is soft and fragrant, add a drizzle more oil if needed. Mix in the breadcrumbs, toasting in the fat for a few mins. 3 Whisk the milk, eggs and cream together before adding the cheese. Remove the squash from the oven and turn the oven down to 170C/ 150C fan/ gas 3. Combine the crumb mix with milk, eggs and cream. Pour over the squash. Scatter over the pumpkin seeds, then roast for another 15 mins.Remove from the oven and allow to settle for a couple of mins before serving. GOOD TO KNOW 1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 328 kcals • fat 19g • saturates 8g • carbs 26g • sugars 10g • fibre 5g • protein 12g • salt 0.7g
OCTOBER 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 19
Aubergine, lentil & walnut ragu This recipe makes for a rich and hearty veggie ragu that’s perfect for pasta, though I love serving it on mounds of buttery swede purée. SERVES 4 PREP 25 mins COOK 45 mins EASY V
2 aubergines 2 tbsp olive oil 1 onion, finely chopped 1 bay leaf 2 finely chopped cloves garlic 1 red or green chilli 2 large tomatoes, chopped 1 tsp red wine vinegar 100g Puy lentils, cooked 30g walnuts, chopped small bunch of parsley, finely chopped
1 Prick the aubergines all over with a fork, then place directly over a gas flame (or BBQ), and char, turning, for about 5 mins or until they feel like they are collapsing inside. Remove and leave to cool. 2 Once the aubergine has cooled, split them in half and carefully scoop out the juicy, soft flesh into a bowl. Peel it away from the burned skin, being careful to capture any of the juices that escape onto the board. Roughly chop the flesh and set aside. 3 Heat the olive oil in a pan over a medium to high heat, add the onion, bay leaf and a pinch of salt and cook, stirring, for about 10 mins, until the onion is softening and just starting to colour. Add the garlic and chilli and cook for a couple of mins more. Mix in the tomatoes and red wine vinegar, and cook, stirring, for about 10 mins until they are collapsing. Add the aubergine, and mix well with the other ingredients, cooking for a few more mins, then add the lentils and 100ml water. Continue to cook until most of the water has reduced. Season. Serve the warm ragu on top of a generous serving of the swede purée. Garnish with the walnuts and parsley. GOOD TO KNOW healthy • low cal • vit c • folate • fibre • 2 of 5-a-day • gluten free
Swede purée
PER SERVING 221 kcals • fat 12g • saturates 2g • carbs 16g • sugars 9g • fibre 10g • protein 7g • salt 0.3g
SERVES 4 PREP 10 mins COOK 20 mins EASY V
Put 1 peeled and chopped swede in a pan and cover with boiling water. Add 1 tbsp salt and bring to the boil. Cook for about 15-20 mins until tender. Once softened, drain the swede and then blitz it with 40g butter and 2 tbsp natural yogurt in a food processor and check for seasoning. Divide the purée between plates and top with the warm ragu. Sprinkle over chopped parsley and serve. GOOD TO KNOW 1 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING 105 kcals • fat 9g • saturates 6g • carbs 4g • sugars 4g • fibre 1g • protein 2g • salt 1.5g
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Chard, preserved lemon & fresh cheese pie SERVES 6 PREP 15 mins COOK 55 mins MORE EFFORT
300g ricotta 500g chard, remove stalks 2 tbsp olive oil ½ leek, sliced 1 onion, sliced 2 finely chopped cloves garlic 1 green chilli, deseeded and finely chopped 2 slices preserved lemon, pith and flesh removed and finely sliced pinch of cumin seeds pinch of fennel seeds 100g bunch of parsley, chervil or any fresh green herb of your choice, roughly chopped 1 lemon, juiced 3 eggs 300g Feta 1 whole nutmeg 270g pack filo pastry rapeseed oil, for brushing
1 Heat oven to 190C/170c fan/gas 5. Drain the ricotta in a sieve for a few mins to remove the whey. Thoroughly wash the chard, and in a clean tea towel, dry the chard, then finely slice. 2 Heat the olive oil in a wok over a medium heat, add the leek, onion, garlic, chilli, preserved lemon, cumin and fennel seeds with a big pinch of salt and cook until the leek and onion are softened and fragrant – about 10 mins. Add the chard, herbs and a good squeeze of lemon juice and season, cook for a few mins until the leaves are wilted but not mushy. Allow to cool, and then squeeze the chard in a sieve to remove any excess moisture. 3 Whisk the eggs in a bowl until a little frothy and mix in the ricotta and feta. Stir in the greens mixture until well combined and grate over some nutmeg. 4 Remove the filo from the pack. Brush the inside of a 20 x 9cm deep cake tin with a little rapeseed oil, and lay a sheet of filo in it, smoothing over the base and up the sides with your fingers – it should cover the bottom and reach up the sides, overhanging the edge. Brush with more oil to cover the pastry and repeat, laying another sheet to make sure the base is completely covered. Gradually build up the layers, brushing with plenty of oil between sheets, adjusting the positioning of the sheets to get even coverage until the tin is fully lined. 5 Fill the tin with the cheese and greens mixture and cover with the filo, brushing with oil between layers and on the top. Add herbs between the layers for a pretty touch. Crumple the filo in the middle of the pie for an extra crispy ruffled texture and scatter with a few more fennel seeds. Bake for 50 mins until golden and the filling is set. Allow to settle for at least 20 mins before removing from the tin. Cool completely and chill in the fridge until ready to serve. GOOD TO KNOW calcium • folate • vit c • iron • 1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 454 kcals • fat 25g • saturates 12g • carbs 33g • sugars 5g • fibre 4g • protein 22g • salt 2.3g
OCTOBER 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 21
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Celeriac ribbon ‘pasta’ tossed with chard, garlic & pumpkin seeds SERVES 2 PREP 20 mins COOK 15 mins MORE EFFORT
1 small celeriac, peeled 1 lemon, juiced 40g pumpkin seeds 2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil 15g butter 4 thyme sprigs, leaves removed 2 finely chopped cloves of garlic ½ tsp of dried chilli flakes 1 bunch of chard, leaves separated from stalks, stalks sliced and leaves shredded 20g pecorino
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1 Using a good vegetable peeler, cut long, wide strips (about the width of parpadelle) around the circumference of the celeriac, into a bowl of water and lemon juice, until you have lots of ribbons. Allow for more than you would if using pasta. 2 Dry-fry the pumpkin seeds in a pan until they’ve puffed and popped. Set aside. 3 Bring a large pan of salted water to the boil. Add the celeriac for 1 min, drain and reserve the water. In a non-stick frying pan, heat the oil and butter until the butter has melted and foamed up. Add the thyme, garlic and chilli. 4 Cook the garlic mixture for 5 mins until fragrant and almost golden, add the chard stalks and stir, cooking for a couple more mins. Add the pumpkin seeds and the chard leaves, season and squeeze in some lemon juice. Turn up the heat and stir in half the grated cheese. Add the celeriac and a slosh of the cooking water and toss, shaking the pan until the sauce looks glossy. Divide between plates, top with more cheese and serve. GOOD TO KNOW folate • fibre • vit c • iron • 2 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING 418 kcals • fat 31g • saturates 9g • carbs 14g • sugars 5g • fibre 14g • protein 13g • salt 2.1g
A Family Recipe for 900 Years Le Gruyère AOP Switzerland - a centuries-old tradition of artisanal cheesemaking.
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Switzerland. Naturally.
Cheeses from Switzerland. www.cheesesfromswitzerland.com
Pål is a traditional Norwegian
fisherman. But he won’t mind if you cook something more modern.
How about haddock fillets and salsa verde served on a parsley mash? Quick, simple and perfect for something different in the middle of the week. For the full recipe, visit seafoodfromnorway.co.uk @norwayseafood
seafoodfromnorway
easiest-ever
weekdays Quick, simple everyday recipes that make home-cooking a breeze
4-ingredient squash linguine p43
Fuss-free midweek meals, p26
Make our foolproof chocolate cake, p45
Simple Chinese sharing menu, p38
OCTOBER 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 25
COMFORTING DINNERS
Easy, cosy suppers for hectic weeknights recipes MIRIAM NICE photographs STUART OVENDEN
Matar paneer SERVES 2 PREP 15 mins COOK 10 mins EASY V
1 tbsp sunflower oil 225g paneer, cut into 3cm cubes 2.5cm piece ginger, grated 1 tsp ground cumin 1 tsp turmeric 1 tsp ground coriander 1 green chilli, finely sliced 4 large ripe tomatoes, peeled and chopped (or ½ 400g can chopped tomatoes) 150g frozen peas 1 tsp garam masala small pack coriander, roughly chopped naan bread, roti or rice, to serve
quick curry
£1.05 per serving
1 Heat the oil in a frying pan over high heat until it’s shimmering hot. Add the paneer, then turn the heat down a little. Fry until it starts to brown at the edges, then turn it over and brown on each side – the paneer will brown faster than you think, so don’t walk away. Remove the paneer from the pan and drain on kitchen paper. 2 Put the ginger, cumin, turmeric, ground coriander and chilli in the pan, and fry everything for 1 min. Add the tomatoes, mashing them with the back of a spoon and simmer everything for 5 mins until the sauce smells fragrant. Add a splash of water if it’s too thick. Season well. Add the peas and simmer for a further 2 mins, then stir in the paneer and sprinkle over the garam masala. Divide between two bowls, top with coriander leaves and serve with naan bread, roti or rice. GOOD TO KNOW calcium • folate • fibre • vit c • iron • 2 of 5-a-day • gluten free (excluding naan) PER SERVING 544 kcals • fat 35g • saturates 18g • carbs 18g • sugars 14g • fibre 8g • protein 35g • salt 0.1g
26 bbcgoodfood.com OCTOBER 2017
easiest ever
Beetroot & lentil tabbouleh SERVES 4 PREP 15 mins NO COOK EASY V
1 small pack flat-leaf parsley, plus extra leaves to serve (optional) 1 small pack mint 1 small pack chives 200g radishes 2 beetroot, peeled and quartered 1 red apple, cored, quartered and sliced 1 tsp ground cumin 4 tbsp olive oil 250g pack cooked quinoa 400g can chickpeas, drained and rinsed 400g can green lentils, drained 2 lemons, juiced
Put the herbs, radishes and beetroot in a food processor and blitz until chopped into small pieces. Stir in the rest of the ingredients, adding the lemon juice a bit at a time to taste – you may not need all of it. Season, then place on a large platter topped with a few parsley leaves, if you like, and serve straight away. GOOD TO KNOW vegan • healthy • low cal • folate • fibre • vit c • iron • 3 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING 346 kcals • fat 15g • saturates 2g • carbs 35g • sugars 7g • fibre 11g • protein 13g • salt 14g
vegan
£1.45 per serving
OCTOBER 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 27
easiest ever
Easy lamb hotpot SERVES 3 PREP 15 mins COOK 55 mins EASY
700g large potatoes, peeled 1 tbsp sunflower oil, plus extra for brushing 1 large white onion, sliced 4 carrots, chopped into small pieces 12 lamb meatballs 450ml chicken gravy (leftover or bought) 2 bay leaves 2 thyme sprigs
1 Boil the potatoes in a saucepan of boiling water for 15 mins until par-boiled, then drain and leave to steam dry and cool. 2 Heat oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Heat the oil in a large frying pan and fry the onion for 10 mins or until starting to soften. Add the carrot and cook for 5 mins until tender. Tip the carrot and onion mixture into a large 2-litre ovenproof dish. Put the pan back over high heat. Fry the lamb meatballs, turning, until golden on the outside. Put the meatballs into the ovenproof dish. Pour over the gravy and tuck in the bay leaves and thyme sprigs. 3 Thinly slice the cooled potatoes and arrange over the top of the meatballs. Brush the potato with 1-2 tsp oil and add a good grinding of black pepper. Bake in the oven for 20-25 mins until the potatoes are tender and starting to become crisp at the edges, and the gravy is bubbling. GOOD TO KNOW fibre • 2 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 565 kcals • fat 20g • saturates 7g • carbs 65g • sugars 14g • fibre 10g • protein 32g • salt 2.4g
one-pot
£1.60 per serving
OCTOBER 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 29
easiest ever
Cod & smashed celeriac SERVES 2 PREP 10 mins COOK 45 mins EASY
1 small celeriac, peeled and chopped 3 tbsp olive oil 1 tsp fennel seeds 4 spring onions, each cut into 3 on the diagonal 1 courgette, grated 1 garlic clove, crushed 2 x 125g skinless cod fillets 1 lemon, ½ juiced and ½ cut into wedges, to serve 1 tbsp chopped parsley leaves, to serve rocket leaves, to serve
1 Heat oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Put the celeriac into a roasting tin, drizzle with 2 tbsp oil, then sprinkle over the fennel seeds. Season and bake in the oven for 45 mins, stirring halfway through, until lightly charred. 2 While the celeriac cooks, put the spring onions in a dry pan and cook over a high heat for 3-4 mins, turning occasionally, until starting to char. Spread two large sheets of foil out on your work surface. Divide the spring onions between the foil sheets, then top with the grated courgette, garlic and fish. Season and drizzle over the lemon juice and the remaining 1 tbsp olive oil. Scrunch up the edges of the foil to seal and create two parcels. Put the parcels on a baking sheet and bake in the oven for 10-12 mins. 3 When the celeriac is cooked, mash the pieces with a potato masher or a fork and season well. Pile the smashed celeriac onto plates, then carefully open the fish parcels – the contents will be hot – and gently slide onto the plates next to the celeriac. Garnish with parsley and serve with rocket leaves and lemon wedges. GOOD TO KNOW healthy • low cal • folate • fibre • vit c • 2 of 5-a-day • gluten free
supper for 2
£2.87 per serving
30 bbcgoodfood.com OCTOBER 2017
PER SERVING 326 kals • fat 19g • saturates 3g • carbs 7g • sugars 5g • fibre 12g • protein 26g • salt 0.8
Lee Kum Kee Europe
Lee Kum Kee Europe
easiest ever
family favourite
£1.52 per serving
Chicken & lemon skewers SERVES 4 PREP 20 mins plus chilling COOK 25 mins EASY
1 small pack mint, leaves picked 150g natural yogurt, plus extra to serve (optional) 1 lemon, zested and juiced ½ tsp ground cumin ½ tsp ground coriander 2cm piece ginger, grated 4 skinless chicken breasts, each cut into 6 pieces 4 wholemeal flatbreads or pittas 2 Little Gem lettuces, sliced 1 small red onion, sliced, to serve pickled red cabbage, chilli sauce and houmous, to serve (all optional) you will need 4 metal or wooden skewers
1 Chop half the mint and put in a bowl with the yogurt, half the lemon juice, all the lemon zest, spices and ginger. Mix well and season with lots of black pepper and a pinch of salt. Add the chicken pieces, mix well and put in the fridge for 20-30 mins. Meanwhile, soak 4 large wooden skewers in water for at least 20 mins (or use metal ones). 2 When you’re ready to cook the chicken, heat your grill to a medium heat and line the grill tray with foil. Thread the chicken onto the soaked wooden or metal skewers and grill for 15-20 mins, turning halfway through, until browned and cooked through. 3 Warm the flatbreads under the grill for a couple of seconds, then serve them topped with the lettuce, chicken, red onion, remaining lemon juice and mint, and any optional extras such as extra yogurt or pickled cabbage, chilli sauce and houmous. GOOD TO KNOW healthy • low fat • low cal • folate • fibre • 1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 363 kcals • fat 4g • saturates 1g • carbs 38g • sugars 5g • fibre 7g • protein 41g • salt 0.9g
OCTOBER 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 33
easiest ever
Charred spring onions & teriyaki tofu SERVES 2 PREP 5 mins COOK 25 mins EASY V
150g wholegrain rice 50ml soy sauce 2 tbsp mirin ½ tsp grated ginger 1 tsp honey 350g firm tofu (we used Cauldron) 1 bunch spring onions, ends trimmed 2 tsp sunflower oil ½ tsp sesame seeds 1 red chilli, sliced (optional)
Baked chilli & jacket potatoes SERVES 4 PREP 10 mins COOK 1 hr EASY
4 large jacket potatoes 1 tbsp sunflower oil 2 red onions, chopped 3 garlic cloves, crushed 1 sachet (30-39g), chilli con carne seasoning mix 500g beef mince
100g smoked bacon lardons 2 tbsp tomato purée 400g can chopped tomatoes 400g can black beans, drained sour cream, grated cheese and coriander leaves, to serve
1 Heat oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Prick the potatoes all over with a fork, then put on a baking sheet and bake in the oven for 1 hr. 2 While the potatoes are baking, heat the oil in a large frying pan. Add the onion and fry over a high heat for 5 mins until softened. Add the garlic and chilli sachet. Stir a few times to coat the onions in the spices, then tip the onion mixture into a large ovenproof dish. 3 Put the pan back over high heat and add the beef mince, breaking it up with a spatula as you go. Cook until starting to become crisp at the edges, then add to the dish with the onions. Return the pan to heat and cook the bacon until crisp at the edges. Add the bacon to the beef and stir to combine. 4 Stir in the tomato purée and tomatoes, then put the dish in the oven with the potatoes and bake for 25-30 mins until bubbling and starting to thicken. Stir in the beans and season well. Return to the oven for 5 mins to warm through. 5 Cut a cross in the top of each potato and squeeze the sides to open. Spoon in the baked chilli and top with sour cream, cheese and coriander if you like. GOOD TO KNOW 3 of 5-a-day • fibre PER SERVING 691 kcals • fat 30g • saturates 11g • carbs 60g • sugars 3g • fibre 12g • protein 39g • salt 3.4g
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1 Cook the rice according to pack instructions. Pour the soy sauce, mirin, ginger and honey into a small saucepan and add 50ml water. Bring to a simmer and cook for around 5 mins or until slightly thickened. Remove from the heat and set aside until needed. 2 If your tofu doesn’t feel very firm, you’ll need to press it. To do this, wrap the block of tofu in a few layers of kitchen paper, then weigh it down with a heavy pan or tray for 10-15 mins – the longer you press it, the firmer it will be. Cut the tofu into thick slices. 3 Heat a griddle pan over high heat and lightly brush the tofu and spring onions with the oil. Griddle the tofu and spring onion until deep char lines appear on both sides (around 4 mins each side) – you may have to do this in batches depending on the size of your griddle pan. 4 Divide the cooked rice between two plates, top with the tofu and spring onion, then drizzle with the teriyaki sauce. Garnish with the sesame seeds and sliced red chilli, if using. GOOD TO KNOW low fat • calcium • 1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 507 kcals • fat 11g • saturates 2g • carbs 76g • sugars 16g • fibre 5g • protein 23g • salt 3.5g
Shoot director GARETH JONES | Food stylist ELENA SILCOCK | Stylist JENNY IGGLEDEN
3 of 5-a-day
£2.17 per serving
vegetarian
£1.64 per serving
Lee Kum Kee Europe
RIDICULOUSLY EASY
Each month, Good Food legend Orlando Murrin shares a quick-fix recipe that delivers impressive results
photographs DAVID MUNNS
f you’re the sort of cook who occasionally hankers for a deeply comforting blow-out of cheese, cream and pasta, then this sumptuous dish from Rome is for you. It’s devastatingly simple and utterly satisfying: just the thing for a Saturday evening à deux as the evenings close in. Italians, and fans of authentic Italian cuisine, may raise a sculpted eyebrow when they observe that my recipe involves clotted cream. This is in fact an ingenious shortcut;
the only other way to achieve the required hit of intense creaminess is to simmer double cream until reduced, which takes longer and doesn’t taste as good. This dish is so full-on that it requires nothing more than a simple green salad to accompany it. If you’re feeling particularly self-indulgent, you can divide this into two servings, but it will stretch to three. If you’re entertaining friends, this recipe can be easily multiplied, too.
Fettucine alfredo SERVES 2-3 PREP 15 mins COOK 10 mins EASY V
freshly grated nutmeg 250g fresh fettuccine or tagliatelle snipped chives or chopped parsley, to serve (optional)
1 In a medium saucepan, stir the clotted cream, butter and cornflour over a low-ish heat and bring to a low simmer. Turn off the heat and keep warm. 2 Meanwhile, put the cheese and nutmeg in a small bowl and add a good grinding of black pepper, then stir everything together (don’t add any salt at this stage). 3 Put the pasta in another pan with 2 tsp salt, pour over some boiling water and cook following pack instructions (usually 3-4 mins). When cooked, scoop some of the cooking water into a heatproof jug or mug and drain the pasta, but not too thoroughly. 4 Add the pasta to the pan with the clotted cream mixture, then sprinkle over the cheese and gently fold everything together over a low heat using a rubber spatula. When combined, splash in 3 tbsp of the cooking water. At first, the pasta will look wet and sloppy: keep stirring until the water is absorbed and the sauce is glossy. Check the seasoning before transferring to heated bowls. Spinkle over some chives or parsley, then serve immediately. GOOD TO KNOW calcium PER SERVING (3) 898 kcals • fat 67g • saturates 41g • carbs 49g • sugars 4g • fibre 3g • protein 23g • salt 0.8
Orlando Murrin, food writer and former Good Food editor, has run gastro-hotels in France and Somerset. @OrlandoMurrin
36 bbcgoodfood.com OCTOBER 2017
customise it... z This is never going to be a ‘healthy’ recipe, but you can throw two or three handfuls of frozen peas into the pasta as it finishes cooking to count towards your 5-a-day. z If this is too rich for you, make the same amount of sauce, but increase the pasta. Adjust at the end by adding a little cooking water if necessary. z Transform it into a carbonara deluxe by stirring in cubes of crisp pancetta. z The best clotted cream of all comes from Trewithen Dairy in Cornwall, which you can order by post. You can now buy West Country clotted cream in supermarkets nationwide, but failing that, simmer 350ml of double cream in a pan for 5-8 mins, stirring frequently until slightly thickened. z For years, I grated parmesan using a box grater or Microplane (my knuckles bear the scars). An Italian friend told me to do it like everyone else in Italy – using a food processor. z Try to use fresh pasta, as the sauce tends to slide off dried pasta.
Shoot director ELIZABETH GALBRAITH | Food stylist AMY STEPHENSON | Stylist VICTORIA ALLEN
227g tub clotted cream 25g butter (about 2 tbsp) 1 tsp cornflour 100g parmesan, grated
easiest ever
Where did this recipe come from?
It was invented by flamboyantly moustachioed restaurateur Alfredo di Lelio in Rome in 1908. Fame rapidly spread, and the restaurant became a magnet for royals and celebrities. Two restaurants now claim to be the authentic Alfredo – Alfredo alla Scrofa and Il Vero Alfredo (‘The Genuine Alfredo’). Film buffs should head to the latter, in Piazza Augusto Imperatore, where the walls are lined with photos of John Wayne, Frank Sinatra, Orson Welles, Ginger Rogers and Elizabeth Taylor (and countless others) eating the famous dish.
OCTOBER 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 37
INSTANT EXPERT
CHINESE Take your dinner-party guests on a culinary tour of China with these easy versions of regional dishes recipes ELENA SILCOCK photographs STUART OVENDEN
T
he trick with these Chinese dishes is to prepare most of your ingredients in advance. The actual cooking times are often quick once you get going. When cooking this menu, stick your chicken wings in the oven while prepping the rest of the courses, starting with all the chopping and slicing, then complete the final steps of the rice and veg when the fish is in the oven. Add some prawn crackers (see p41), and use chopsticks and small bowls to set the scene.
Sichuan chicken wings SERVES 4 PREP 10 mins COOK 55 mins EASY
800g chicken wings 1 tbsp baking powder 11/2 tsp Sichuan peppercorns 11/2 tsp chilli flakes 3 tbsp Shaoxing wine
11/2 tbsp garlic and ginger paste 3 tbsp each dark and light soy sauce 11/2 tsp sesame oil 3 tbsp palm sugar to serve chopped peanuts chilli flakes
1 Heat oven to 160C/140C fan/gas 3. Toss the chicken in 1 tsp salt and the baking powder – this is the secret to getting crispy skin! Put the wings on a wire rack set over an oven tray. Bake for 30 mins, turning halfway, then turn the heat up to 220C/200C fan/gas 7 and cook for 20 mins more. 2 Meanwhile, toast the peppercorns and chilli flakes until fragrant, about 2 mins, then grind using a pestle and mortar. Tip into a saucepan, then add the rest of the ingredients apart from the chopped peanuts and chilli flakes. Whisk to combine, then cook over a medium heat for 8-10 mins until thickened and bubbling. Set aside. 3 Take the chicken off the rack and tip onto the tray, then coat in the glaze. Return to the oven for 5 mins until bubbling and sticky. Serve the chicken scattered with the peanuts and chilli flakes. PER SERVING 310 kcals • fat 17g • saturates 5g • carbs 9g • sugars 7g • fibre 1g • protein 28g • salt 5.5g
38 bbcgoodfood.com OCTOBER 2017
easiest ever
Egg fried rice, p40
Sichuan chicken wings, p38
Steamed sea bass, p40
Asian greens, p40 OCTOBER 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 39
Asian greens SERVES 4 PREP 15 mins COOK 10 mins EASY
1 tbsp vegetable oil 2 tbsp oyster sauce 350g mixed Asian greens such as pak choi, choy sum or tatsoi
1 Whisk the oil and oyster sauce with 1 tbsp water in a saucepan. Cook for 2-3 mins until glossy, then set aside. 2 Bring a large pan of salted water to the boil. Add the greens, and cook for 2 mins, or until just wilted, then drain. Cut any large bulbs in half and put on a serving plate. Drizzle the sauce over and serve immediately.
Egg fried rice
Steamed sea bass
Your rice will fry much more easily without sticking if it is very dry, spread it out on a plate to cool it quickly.
These flavours work well with aubergine too. Cut the aubergine into wedges and cook in a steamer for 10-15 mins, then top with the aromatics as for the fish.
SERVES 4 PREP 10 mins COOK 10 mins EASY V
250g long grain rice 3 tbsp vegetable oil 1 onion, finely chopped 4 eggs, beaten 2 spring onions, sliced, to serve
1 Cook the rice following pack instructions, then drain, spread it out to steam-dry and set aside. 2 Heat 2 tbsp of the oil in a large wok over a high heat, then add the onion and fry until lightly browned (see page 129), around 5 mins. Add the rice, stir and toast for about 3 mins, then move to the side of the pan. Add the remaining oil, then tip in the egg mixture. Leave to cook a little, then mix with the rice mixture – stir vigorously to coat the rice or, if you prefer the egg chunkier, allow to set for a little longer before breaking up and stirring through. Tip into a serving bowl and scatter over the spring onion to serve. GOOD TO KNOW healthy • gluten free PER SERVING 387 kcals • fat 14g • saturates 2g • carbs 53g • sugars 2g • fibre 1g • protein 12g • salt 0.2g
tip
Make sure your wok is really hot when frying rice, you want the rice to fry and not steam.
SERVES 4 PREP 20 mins COOK 20 mins EASY
30g ginger, peeled and cut into matchsticks (use a julienne peeler if you have one) 1 whole large sea bass (about 800g), gutted and cleaned (ask your fishmonger to do this), or 4 fillets of sea bass
1 tbsp each light and dark soy sauce 1 tbsp vegetable oil 1 tsp palm sugar 1 spring onion, sliced diagonally 1 /2 small pack coriander, trimmed but still with most of the stalks on 1 /2 red chilli, finely sliced diagonally
1 Heat oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4. Put half the ginger in the cavity of the fish, then lay it on foil. Pull the sides of the foil up around the fish to create a foil bowl, then add 1 tbsp water (this will steam the fish), seal and cook in the oven for 15-20 mins or a large bamboo steamer until the fish is flaking apart. 2 Transfer to a serving platter, leaving the juices in the foil. Heat the soy sauces, oil and palm sugar in a saucepan with 1 tbsp water until boiling and bubbling. Top the fish with the spring onion, chilli, most of the coriander and the rest of the ginger. Pour the hot liquid over the fish to ‘cook’ the aromatics on top. Scatter over any leftover coriander stalks to serve. PER SERVING 331 kcals • fat 20g • saturates 4g • carbs 3g • sugars 2g • fibre none • protein 35g • salt 1.4g
For John Torode’s new take on Chinese beef hotpot, turn to page 116
40 bbcgoodfood.com OCTOBER 2017
Shoot director CHERRY FERMOR | Food stylist ELENA SILCOCK | Stylist JENNY IGGLEDEN
GOOD TO KNOW low fat • 1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 47 kcals • fat 3g • saturates none • carbs 3g • sugars 1g • fibre 2g • protein 2g • salt 0.9g
easiest ever
KNOW YOUR SOYS >> Dark soy
Dark soy is thicker and aged for longer than light, giving it a greater depth of flavour. Its also a little less salty, aided by the addition of caramel or molasses.
BEST BUYS >>
Light soy
Light soy, in turn, is less full bodied but has a saltier kick. Chinese recipes often include a combination of both sauces to create a more rounded flavour.
Chopsticks
Chinese chopsticks are generally longer and thicker than Japanese chopsticks. These are available from souschef.co.uk.
COOK LIKE A LOCAL >> Hong Mui prawn crackers
These cook-at-home prawn crackers are not only reasonably priced, they’re also fun to cook – drop them into hot oil and watch them expand.
Sichuan peppercorns
Perfect in marinades and sauces, these are packed with the numbing spice that plays on your taste buds. Be careful not to use too many – the prickly sensation lasts a while on the palate.
Bamboo steamer
A bamboo steamer is invaluable but do buy one that is large enough to fit what you need into it. Alternatively, take your Chinese feast to the next level and steam some dumplings (you can either buy frozen ones or make your own, find recipes on bbcgoodfood.com).
Asian greens
Choy sum, tatsoi and pak choi. Steam, simmer or throw into a stir-fry. These greens add a clean freshness to Chinese meals, balancing the aromatics and heat.
Julienne peeler
Useful for creating thin strips of vegetables and ginger and much faster than using a knife.
OCTOBER 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 41
Our gluten-free food is delicious for a reason. At ‘Too Good To Be...’ every product is expertly made to contain the most important ingredient: flavour. This is our passion, which means everything that leaves our bakery has passed the ‘Too Good To Be…’ Taste Test.
Full on flavour, it’s a promise we’re proud to deliver.
Find the range or ask for it at your local store
toogoodtobe.co.uk
easiest ever
dinner dash
BUTTERNUT SQUASH Easy meal ideas with ready-prepared squash recipes MIRIAM NICE photographs TOM REGESTER
Creamy squash linguine SERVES 4 V
Heat oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Put the squash and garlic on a baking tray and drizzle with 3 tbsp olive oil. Roast for 35-40 mins until soft. Season. Cook the pasta according to pack instructions. Drain, reserving the water. Use a stick blender to whizz the squash with 400ml cooking water. Heat some oil in a frying pan, fry the sage until crisp, then drain on kitchen paper. Tip the pasta and sauce into the pan and warm through. Scatter with sage. GOOD TO KNOW vegan • healthy • low cal • fibre • 1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 441 kcals • fat 11g • saturates 2g • carbs 71g • sugars 5g • fibre 6g • protein 12g • salt none
+ 350g chopped butternut squash
+ =
3 peeled garlic cloves
+ small bunch sage
350g linguine
Squash quesadillas SERVES 4 V
Heat oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Boil the squash for 10 mins or until tender, drain and cool. Divide the squash, feta and half the salad leaves over the tortillas and season well. 350g chopped Fold each tortilla into quarters, place on a butternut squash baking tray and drizzle with a little olive oil. Put another baking tray on top and push down. Bake with the tray on top for 5 mins, take the tray off and bake for a further 5 mins until golden. Serve with remaining salad leaves. GOOD TO KNOW low cal • calcium • 2 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 362 kcals • fat 12g • saturates 6g • carbs 48g • sugars 5g • fibre 5g • protein 13g • salt 1.9g
+
+ =
100g feta, crumbled
+
160g bag watercress, spinach & rocket
8 small flour tortillas
Food stylist ESTHER CLARKE | Stylist FAYE WEARS
Squash & lentil salad SERVES 2 V
Heat oven to 220C/200C/gas 7. Toss the squash in 2 tbsp olive oil, season and roast for 30-35 mins or until golden. Add 2-3 tsp water to the raita, stir until smooth and set aside. Toss the lentils with half the raita, squash and dill. Tip the lentils onto a plate, top with remaining squash, drizzle over 2 tsp olive oil and the rest of the raita. Garnish with the remaining dill. GOOD TO KNOW low cal • fibre • vit c • 2 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING 409 kcals • fat 19g • saturates 4g • carbs 39g • sugars 9g • fibre 11g • protein 16g • salt 1.6g
+ 350g chopped butternut squash
+ 75g cucumber & mint raita or tzatziki
+ 250g pack Puy lentils
=
small bunch dill
OCTOBER 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 43
easiest ever
easy bakes
It’s teatime ...and this is the only chocolate cake recipe you’ll ever need
recipe MIRIAM NICE photograph TOM REGESTER
Easy chocolate cake An airy light sponge and rich buttercream makes this cake simple enough for an afternoon tea but special enough for a party; just add cake candles. SERVES 10-12 PREP 35 mins COOK 20 mins EASY V G sponges only
Food stylist ESTHER CLARK
for the cake 200g golden caster sugar 200g unsalted butter, softened plus extra for the tins 4 eggs 200g self-raising flour 2 tbsp cocoa powder 1 tsp baking powder ½ tsp vanilla extract 2 tbsp milk
for the buttercream 100g milk chocolate, chopped 200g butter, softened 400g icing sugar 5 tbsp cocoa powder 2 tbsp milk to decorate chocolate shards (see tip, below)
1 Heat oven to 190C/170C fan/gas 5. Butter the base and sides of two 20cm round sandwich tins, then line the bases with baking parchment. 2 In a large bowl, beat all the cake ingredients and a pinch of salt together until pale. Divide the mixture between the prepared tins. Bake for 20 mins or until a skewer inserted into the centre of the cake comes out clean. Leave to cool in the tin for 10 mins, then turn out onto a wire rack to cool completely. 3 For the buttercream, put the chocolate in a heatproof bowl and melt in the microwave, stirring every 30 secs. Leave the melted chocolate to cool for 5 mins. Mash the butter and icing sugar together with a fork, then switch to a wooden spoon or electric beaters, if you have them. Sift in the cocoa with a pinch of salt and pour in the melted chocolate and milk. Mix again until smooth. 4 On a cake stand or large plate, sandwich the cakes together with half of the buttercream, then spread the rest on top. Decorate with chocolate shards, if you like. PER SERVING 523 kcals • fat 29g • saturates 18g • carbs 59g • sugars 47g • fibre 2g • protein 6g • salt 0.6g
tip
For the chocolate shards, melt 50g dark chocolate and pour it onto a tray lined with baking parchment or foil. Now melt 25g milk chocolate and 25g white chocolate and drizzle them over the dark chocolate before it sets. Shake the tray gently to level the mixture then leave to set somewhere cool. Chop into shards.
make a perfect cake
OCTOBER 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 45
HOMEMADE
Halloween Throw a party using these spooky recipes before you send your little monsters out trick or treating, and perhaps they won’t come back with as many sweets… recipes LULU GRIMES photographs WILL HEAP
48 bbcgoodfood.com OCTOBER 2017
easiest ever
Mummy pie, p50
OCTOBER 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 49
Mummy pie
Black velvet Halloween cupcakes
SERVES 8 PREP 15 mins plus chilling and cooling COOK 20-25 mins EASY V G
MAKES 22 PREP 25 mins plus cooling and decorating COOK 20 mins EASY
plain flour, for dusting 500g all-butter puff pastry 6 tbsp whole-fruit strawberry jam 1 large apple, peeled, cored and thinly sliced 1 egg, beaten 1 tsp golden caster sugar icing eyes (see tip, below)
200g butter, softened 300g golden caster sugar 200g dark chocolate, melted 2 eggs 250g self raising flour 1⁄4 tsp baking powder mixed with 100ml boiling water 50g cocoa powder 200ml milk 1-2 tsp black food colouring (optional)
1 Lightly dust a work surface with flour. Roll out the puff pastry to a 30 x 45cm rectangle, then put it on a large baking sheet lined with baking parchment. 2 Put the pastry in front of you with a short edge nearest to you. Spread the jam in a line down the centre, about 12cm wide, leaving 2cm of pastry at the top and bottom. Arrange the apple slices on top in a thin layer. 3 To make the bandage pattern, lightly mark a 1cm-border around the jam. Cut the pastry edges into 1cmwide strips from the line outwards. 4 Fold the strips of pastry over inwards on both sides, starting from the top until you reach the bottom, making some of them straight and some of them diagonal, so every now and then you can see some jam and apple. Don’t worry if they don’t look neat – this should look like a mummy. Every now and then you can break off a strip so you can see more filling. Chill for 20 mins. Can be wrapped in cling film and frozen for up to 1 month. 5 Heat oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6 and put in a baking sheet to heat up. Brush the pastry with the beaten egg and sprinkle with the sugar. Slide the tart on its parchment onto the hot baking sheet. Bake for 20-25 mins or until golden brown on top. Cool for a few mins, then push pairs of icing eyes into the pastry gaps so they look like they're looking out. PER SERVING 295 kcals • fat 17g • saturates 8g • carbs 30g • sugars 11g • fibre 2g • protein 4g • salt 0.6g
tip
To make icing eyes, mix up a batch of fondant icing and pipe sets of ‘eyeballs’ onto baking parchment then leave to dry. Either add ‘pupils’ to the eyes with a small brush and black colouring or make up a batch of black icing and pipe it on top.
50 bbcgoodfood.com OCTOBER 2017
for the buttercream 300g unsalted butter, softened 500g icing sugar 1 tsp vanilla extract black food colouring for the decorations pack of Smarties black icing pen 1 pack mixed coloured fondant icing (you'll need pink, green, blue and white) liquorice and strawberry laces and other sweets such as jelly fangs and liquorice allsorts icing eyes (see tip, below left)
1 Heat oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4. Line two 12-hole cupcake tins with cases. Beat the butter and sugar until the mixture is creamy. Beat in the chocolate and the eggs until combined, then stir in the flour and baking powder, cocoa powder, milk and food colouring, if using. Spoon the mixture evenly between the cupcake cases, levelling the tops. 2 Bake for 20 mins or until the cakes are risen and springy to the touch. Cool for 5 mins in the tin, then lift out onto a wire rack to cool completely. 3 To make the buttercream, beat the butter until soft, then stir in the icing sugar a little at a time. Beat in the vanilla and some black food colouring, then transfer to a piping bag fitted with a plain nozzle. 4 For the cat face, pipe the black buttercream in an even swirl onto the cupcake and smooth with a palette knife. Pipe two ears by making a blob for each and pulling the icing bag upwards to a point. Add two eyes on each with Smarties and use the black icing pen to paint a pupil onto each. Add a triangle nose made of pink fondant icing and create whiskers with sweets. 5 For the monster faces, cut circles of green and blue fondant to fit the tops of the cupcake and fix them in place with a little buttercream. Add eyes, noses and mouths made of sweets or use icing eyes. For skeletons, cut out shapes with white fondant and fix in place with the buttercream. PER CUPCAKE 517 kcals • fat 24g • saturates 15g • carbs 70g • sugars 59g • fibre 2g • protein 4g • salt 0.3g
easiest ever
OCTOBER 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 51
easiest ever
Pumpkin houmous When it isn’t Halloween, use a butternut squash or blue-skinned pumpkin for this recipe as they often have a better flavour. SERVES 8 PREP 10 mins COOK 50 mins EASY V
1 small pumpkin (about 500g) olive oil, for roasting 2 garlic cloves, peeled ½ lemon, juiced 2 tbsp tahini paste
400g can chickpeas, drained 1 red pepper, deseeded, and sliced 1 yellow pepper, deseeded, and sliced mini breadsticks and pitta chips, to serve
52 bbcgoodfood.com OCTOBER 2017
1 Cut the top off the pumpkin, about two-thirds of the way up. Remove the pumpkin seeds, then scoop the flesh out of the bottom and the lid. 2 Heat oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Cut the pumpkin flesh into pieces and put in a roasting tin with the garlic and a good glug of oil. Season, then bake for 45 mins until very tender. Leave to cool. 3 Tip the pumpkin into a food processor with any juices from the roasting tin and the garlic. Add the lemon juice, tahini paste and chickpeas. Season with salt and blend to a paste – add a little more oil if it's too thick.Scoop the houmous back into the pumpkin and serve with the peppers, breadsticks and pitta chips. GOOD TO KNOW vegan • healthy • vit c • 2 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING 123 kcals • fat 7g • saturates 1g • carbs 8g • sugars 3g • fibre 4g • protein 4g • salt 0.1g
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easiest ever
Mini baked potatoes with sticky sausages Pretend the ketchup is blood if your party guests are feeling ghoulish. SERVES 10 PREP 10 mins COOK 1 hr EASY
20 small potatoes olive oil, for the potatoes
2 tsp honey 1 tsp soy sauce 20 cocktail sausages soured cream and ketchup, to serve
1 Heat oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4. Rub the potatoes with a little olive oil and prick them all over with a skewer. Tip into a roasting tin and bake for 1 hr, or until tender when you squeeze them. 2 Halfway through cooking the potatoes, whisk the honey and soy sauce with a splash of oil in a large bowl. Add the sausages and toss to coat in the mixture. Tip the sausage mixture into a baking dish and bake for 30 mins, turning the sausages halfway through, until browned all over. 3 Split the cooked potatoes along the top and squeeze the sides so they open out. Put a sticky sausage into the top of each. Swirl the soured cream and ketchup blood in a bowl and serve on the side. PER SERVING 133 kcals • fat 6g • saturates 2g • carbs 14g • sugars 2g • fibre 2g • protein 3g • salt 0.3g
Wicked witch apples
MAKES 8 PREP 20 mins COOK 10 mins EASY V
8 red apples 400g caster sugar 1 tsp lemon juice 4 tbsp golden syrup
red or black food colouring red or black food glitter (optional) you will need 8 sturdy, clean twigs or lolly sticks
1 Pull any stalks off the twigs and push the sharpest end of each stick (or the lolly sticks) into the stalk-end of each apple, making sure it is firmly wedged in. Put a large piece of baking parchment onto a wooden board. 2 Tip the sugar into a large saucepan and add the lemon juice and 100ml water. Bring to a simmer and cook until the sugar has dissolved. Swirl the pan gently to move the sugar around, but don’t stir. Add the golden syrup and bubble the mixture (be careful it doesn’t boil over) until it reaches 'hard crack' stage or 150C on a sugar thermometer. If you don't have a thermometer, test the toffee by dropping a small amount into cold water. It should harden instantly and, when removed, be brittle. If it's soft, continue to boil. When it's ready, drip in some food colouring and swirl to combine. Add the glitter, if using, and turn off the heat. 3 Working quickly, dip each apple into the toffee, tipping the pan to cover all the skin. Lift out and allow any excess to drip off before putting on the baking parchment. Repeat with the remaining apples. Gently heat the toffee again if you need to. Best eaten on the same day. GOOD TO KNOW vegan • low fat • 1 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING 282 kcals • fat none • saturates none • carbs 68g • sugars 68g • fibre 2g • protein none • salt 0.1g
54 bbcgoodfood.com OCTOBER 2017
Shoot director RACHEL BAYLY | Food stylist KATY GREENWOOD | Stylist SARAH BIRKS
Making these is a job for adults as the toffee will be very hot.
easiest ever
Spider pizzas SERVES 8 PREP 20 mins plus proving COOK 12 mins per tray EASY
If you prefer, you can make two large pizzas and put lots of spiders on each. There are plenty of ways to make spiders for your pizzas – we’ve used olives and salami here, but you can make red and green versions by stamping circles or ovals out of peppers and using thinly sliced pieces as legs. 1 pack pizza base mix plain flour, for dusting 120ml passata or tomato pasta sauce 1 garlic clove, crushed 150g grated mozzarella 25g-50g parmesan, grated 4 large pitted black olives 6 small slices salami or chorizo 8 small capers, drained
1 Make the pizza dough following pack instructions. Tip the dough onto a floured surface, flour your hands, then gently knead the dough for about 2 mins until fairly even, soft and bouncy. Return the dough to the bowl, cover with oiled cling film, then let it rise in a warm place until doubled in size (about 1 hr). While the dough proves, mix the passata and garlic in a bowl. 2 Heat oven to 240C/220C fan/gas 9 or as hot as it will go. Dust two baking sheets with flour. Split the dough into eight, then roll four balls into thin, rough circles. Lift onto the floured sheets. Smear a thin layer of the tomato sauce on top of each and scatter over the mozzarella and parmesan. 3 Halve each olive and put four halves, cut-side down on four pizzas – these are the spider bodies. Cut the rest of the olive halves into thin strips, then arrange on either side of the bodies to look like legs. 4 Put four pieces of salami or chorizo on the four remaining pizza bases. Cut the other pieces of salami into thin strips and use them to make the legs of the spiders. Add 2 capers to each spider for the eyes. 5 Bake each tray for 12 mins or until golden and crisp and the cheese is starting to brown. PER SERVING 212 kcals • fat 13g • saturates 6g • carbs 10g • sugars 2g • fibre 1g • protein 12g • salt 1.2g
For more Halloween recipes, visit bbcgoodfood.com
56 bbcgoodfood.com OCTOBER 2017
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Let’s get Retro comfort food puddings get a makeover with our extra-special indulgent twists
recipes CASSIE BEST AND MIRIAM NICE photographs PETER CASSIDY
Chocolate roly-poly pudding, p62 OCTOBER 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 59
Open-face pear & berry pie This stunning modern pie is made by combining two classic desserts – poached pears and a fruit pie. We’ve arranging the pears in a neat asterisk, and used small pastry cutters to add detail to the top of the pie.
make our cover recipe
SERVES 5 PREP 35 mins plus cooling COOK 1 hr MORE EFFORT V
plain flour, for dusting 300g sweet shortcrust pastry freshly grated nutmeg 1 egg, beaten 1 tbsp demerara sugar custard, cream or ice cream, to serve for the poached pears 75g white caster sugar 1 lemon, pared 5 cardamom pods
½ nutmeg 1 cinnamon stick 3 small pears, peeled cored and halved for the filling 3-4 small pears, peeled cored and chopped 75g white caster sugar 2 tsp cornflour 2 tbsp ground almonds 150g berries (we used raspberries and blackberries)
1 To make the poached pears, put the sugar in a big saucepan with the lemon peel, cardamom pods, nutmeg, cinnamon and 1 litre water. Bring to a gentle simmer. Lower the pear halves into the liquid and place a circle of baking parchment on top, so they cook through properly. Leave over a medium heat, so that a few bubbles break the surface every now and then, and cook for 15 mins. Allow to cool in the liquid. Can be chilled overnight if making ahead. 2 Heat oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4. Dust the work surface with a little plain flour. Roll out the pastry so it’s big enough to line a 20-23cm frying pan, pie dish or shallow baking tin. Grate a little nutmeg over the surface, then gently roll again to help it stick. Lift over your dish, press into the corners, then trim the edges. You can give it a pretty crimped edge, if you like, then wrap the off-cuts in cling film and keep in the fridge until needed. Scrunch up a sheet of baking parchment, unfold, and lay it over the pastry. Fill with baking beans and bake for 15 mins. Remove the beans and parchment, brush with some of the beaten egg and return to the oven for another 5 mins. 3 Meanwhile, make the filling. Cook the remaining pears and sugar in a small pan until the pears are soft enough to squash with the back of a spoon. Drain off 3 tbsp of the poaching liquid and mix this with the cornflour, then pour back into the pears and continue cooking and squashing for another minute or so, until the filling has thickened. 4 Sprinkle the ground almonds over the pastry case, then add the squashed pear mixture and scatter over the berries. Remove the poached pears from their liquid and blot them on some kitchen paper. Arrange them face-up among the pear mixture and berries. Using a mini pastry cutter, cut little shapes from the leftover pastry, then arrange them on top. Brush the pastry pieces with beaten egg and sprinkle with the demerara sugar. Bake for 45-50 mins until the pastry is golden and berry juice is bubbling. Cool for 10-15 mins before serving with custard, cream or ice cream, if you like. GOOD TO KNOW fibre • 1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 547 kcals • fat 19g • saturates 9g • carbs 85g • sugars 59g • fibre 6g • protein 7g • salt 0.4g
60 bbcgoodfood.com OCTOBER 2017
We used little fluted round cutters, but you could use any shaped mini cutters you like
comfort
The egg wash and sugar give the pastry a professional golden finish
The almonds stop your tart from getting a soggy bottom by soaking up excess juice
Use the best berries you can find, halving any bigger ones to make them fit
OCTOBER 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 61
Pineapple & cherry sponge with coconut rum custard We’ve used coconut oil instead of butter in this pudding – it’s an invaluable storecupboard staple for those wanting to consume less dairy. SERVES 6 PREP 30 mins COOK 2 hrs 20 mins MORE EFFORT V
Chocolate roly-poly pudding Bread and butter pudding gets a makeover with pinwheel swirls, a marmalade glaze and the double-chocolate treatment. SERVES 8 PREP 30 mins plus 30 mins soaking COOK 50 mins EASY V
100g dark chocolate, finely chopped 200ml double cream, plus extra to serve 600ml whole milk 3 eggs 140g golden caster sugar
1 large white loaf of bread, (800g) unsliced (a day or two old if possible, it’ll be much easier to cut) 300g chocolate spread, biscuit spread or canned caramel 100g marmalade, plus extra to serve
1 Melt the chocolate and cream together in the microwave, stirring every 30 secs. Warm the milk in a large pan. 2 Whisk the eggs and sugar in a large bowl or jug. Pour in the hot milk, whisking as you do, then add the chocolate mixture and whisk to combine. 3 Remove the crusts from the bread (these will freeze well for breadcrumbs). Use a sharp serrated knife to cut the loaf into 4 or 5 slices along the length of the loaf (approx. 2cm thick) – this is easiest if you score where you want to cut along the top before slicing. 4 Spread one side of each slice with the spread of your choice. Roll the slices up, from the shorter ends, then cut each roll in half or three so you have 10-12 roly-polys. Place them cut-side up in a baking dish. Pour over the chocolate custard, making sure each roll is soaked. Cover with cling film and leave for at least 30 mins so the bread can soak up all the custard, or you can put it in the fridge overnight, if you like. 5 Heat oven to 170C/150C fan/gas 31/2. Brush the tops of the bread swirls with the marmalade, then bake for 45 mins until the bread has puffed up and the custard is just set. Brush with marmalade again for a glossy finish, then serve warm with double cream. GOOD TO KNOW calcium PER SERVING 831 kcals • fat 40g • saturates 16g • carbs 99g • sugars 48g • fibre 4g • protein 17g • salt 1.4g
140g coconut oil, plus extra for the pudding basin 432g can pineapple rings in juice 100g glace cherries, halved 140g self-raising flour, plus 1 tsp 140g white caster sugar
2 large eggs 1 tbsp golden syrup, warmed for the custard 400g can coconut milk 1 egg, plus 1 yolk 2 ½ tsp cornflour 50g white caster sugar 2 tsp white rum 1 tsp vanilla extract
1 Line the base of a 1-litre pudding basin with a disc of baking parchment, then oil the parchment. Drain the pineapple and save the juice. Pat the rings dry with kitchen paper, then use them to line the base and sides of the basin, cutting the last couple to fill any gaps. Push a halved cherry in each pineapple hole and any other gaps – you should have some left over. 2 Heat oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4. Boil the kettle. Melt the remaining coconut oil in a pan or the microwave. While it cools, put 140g flour and the sugar into a bowl and stir together. Toss the remaining cherries through 1 tsp flour. 3 Pour the coconut oil into the flour mixture along with the eggs, cherries and 2 tbsp pineapple juice. Fold everything together with a spatula and gently scrape into the pudding basin. Cover the pudding with a sheet of baking parchment, then a sheet of foil, with a folded pleat down the centre. Stand in a deep roasting tin on the middle shelf of the oven and pour the kettle-hot water into the tin, to come about half way up the sides of the basin. Bake for 2 hrs 15 mins. Insert a skewer into the centre of the pudding – it will come out clean if it’s cooked, but if not, re-cover and return to the oven for 10 mins, then check again. 4 To make the custard, pour the coconut milk into a small pan and warm it, but don’t let it boil. Whisk the egg, yolk, cornflour, sugar and rum in a jug. Whisk in the warm coconut milk, then pour the liquid through a sieve back into the pan. Return to a low-medium heat and stir constantly until thickened. Stir in the vanilla. 5 To serve, carefully turn it out onto a plate, then serve hot with the warm coconut custard. GOOD TO KNOW 1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 683 kcals • fat 39g • saturates 31g • carbs 74g • sugars 41g • fibre 2g • protein 8g • salt 0.4g
62 bbcgoodfood.com OCTOBER 2017
comfort
Coconut tastes great with pineapple and rum – think piña colada
tip
NEED SOME HELP? • To turn out the steamed pudding, run a flexible knife between the basin and the pudding, and place an upturned plate on top. Flip both the basin and plate over and carefully lift off the basin. • Brush the pudding with a little golden syrup just before serving to make it shine. • If any cherries have become buried in cake batter, you can pick it away with a skewer to show them off.
OCTOBER 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 63
Spiced apple & blackberry hand pies We took what we loved about little rectangular pies and made them look prettier. SERVES 6 PREP 30 mins plus chilling COOK 30 mins EASY V G
2 cooking apples, peeled, cored and cut into small pieces 50g golden caster sugar 150g blackberries 1 tbsp cornflour 1 tbsp honey
2 x 320g shortcrust pastry sheets 1 egg, beaten 150g icing sugar 1 tsp cinnamon 1 tbsp white caster sugar custard, to serve (optional)
1 Put the apples and sugar in a saucepan with 2 tbsp water and cook, covered, for 6 mins or until the apples are soft, stirring once or twice. Tip the mixture into a shallow dish and spread out to cool slightly, then tip in the blackberries and stir. In a separate bowl, mix the cornflour with the honey, then stir it into the fruit mixture.
HOW TO MAKE YOUR OWN
2 Unroll the pastry sheets and, using a 10cm round cutter, cut out 12 circles. Spoon the fruit filling onto half of the pastry circles, leaving a border of about 1cm around the edge. Brush the beaten egg around the edges and place a plain pastry disc on top to encase the filling, then make a little dent in the top and bottom to form an apple shape. Seal the edges all the way around using the prongs of a ork, then brush with egg. Use the pastry off-cuts to cut out little leaf shapes and stalks, then stick them on with beaten egg. Poke a steam hole in the top with a skewer. Repeat with the remaining pastry and filling. Arrange the pies on a baking sheet lined with baking parchment and chill for at least 30 mins, or up to 24 hrs. Can be frozen unbaked for up to 2 months. 3 Heat oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Bake the pies for 20 mins, or until the pastry is golden and the filling is bubbling through the hole. If cooking from frozen, bake for an extra 5 mins. Sprinkle with the sugar, then leave to cool for at least 20 mins before serving with custard. GOOD TO KNOW fibre • 1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 692 kcals • fat 34g • saturates 13g • carbs 85g • sugars 43g • fibre 6g • protein 8g • salt 0.6g
Sweet shortcrust pastry
Classic custard
It’s fine to buy this if you like, but if you want to make it yourself, use this recipe.
SERVES 4 PREP 10 mins COOK 15 mins EASY V
MAKES around 300g PREP 20 mins plus chilling EASY V
Put 150g plain flour and 75g unsalted butter in a bowl and rub together with your fingertips until it resembles breadcrumbs. Mix in 50g icing sugar and a pinch of salt followed by 1 egg yolk. If the pastry feels too dry to form a dough, add 1 tbsp water. Shape the dough into a ball, flatten it out into a disc, wrap it in cling film, then chill for at least 30 mins before using in your recipes. PER SERVING 275 kcals • fat 14g • saturates 8g • carbs 33g • sugars 10g • fibre 1g • protein 4g • salt 0.2g
64 bbcgoodfood.com OCTOBER 2017
Bring 500ml whole milk to the boil in a saucepan then take it off the heat. In a large bowl, beat together 4 egg yolks, 75g sugar, 3 tbsp cornflour and the seeds from 1 vanilla pod. Slowly pour the hot milk onto the egg yolk mixture, whisking all the time. Pour everything back into the saucepan and cook for 8-10 mins, stirring all the time until the mixture is thick and smooth. GOOD TO KNOW gluten free PER SERVING 257 kcals • fat 10g • saturates 4g • carbs 34g • sugars 24g • fibre none • protein 7g • salt 0.2g
comfort
OCTOBER 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 65
comfort
IPA treacle tart Adding a touch of grapefruit zest brings out the vibrant American hop bitterness we love in our beers at the moment, plus it balances terrifically with the sweetness of this classic bake. SERVES 8-10 PREP 45 mins plus chilling COOK 1 hr 35 mins EASY V G
for the pastry 250g plain flour, plus extra for dusting 125g unsalted butter, chilled and chopped 75g icing sugar 2 egg yolks for the filling 700g golden syrup
50g honey 250g breadcrumbs ½ grapefruit, zest only 100ml red IPA (we used Siren liquid Mistress) 3 medium eggs honeycomb, broken into shards (optional)
1 To make the pastry, put the flour and butter in a bowl and rub together with your fingertips until it resembles breadcrumbs. Mix in the icing sugar followed by the yolks. If the pastry feels too dry, add 2 tbsp water. Shape into a ball, flatten it out into a disc, wrap it in cling film, then chill for 30 mins. 2 Roll out the pastry on a lightly floured surface until big enough to line a 23cm fluted tart tin, about 3cm deep. Line the tin with the pastry, allowing the edges to overhang. Chill for another 30 mins. 3 Heat oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Line the tart with baking parchment and baking beans. Bake blind for 20 mins. Remove the beans and parchment and bake for 10-15 mins more until the pastry is golden and crisp. 4 While the pastry is cooking, mix the golden syrup, honey, breadcrumbs, grapefruit zest, beer and eggs together in a large jug or bowl. 5 Lower oven to 160C/140C fan/gas 3. Use a small serrated knife to trim the pastry edges, then fill with the treacle mixture. Bake for 55 mins-1 hr until golden. Scatter over the honeycomb shards before serving, if you like. PER SERVING (10) 539 kcals • fat 14g • saturates 7g • carbs 94g • sugars 65g • fibre 2g • protein 8g • salt 0.8g
OCTOBER 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 67
Black forest arctic roll This polka-dot ‘schwarzwälder kirschtorte’ is the ultimate retro pudding mash-up.
tip
MAKE IT SPECIAL Whisk 300ml double cream and add a dollop to each plate, topped with grated dark chocolate and the rest of the kirsch-soaked cherries.
SERVES 8-10 PREP 35 mins plus 3 hrs freezing and cooling COOK 18 mins MORE EFFORT V
for the ice cream 2 eggs, separated 2 tbsp icing sugar 1 vanilla pod, seeds only 100ml double cream 250g jar black cherries in kirsch for the sponge knob of butter, for the tin
68 bbcgoodfood.com OCTOBER 2017
3 eggs 100g golden caster sugar, plus extra for dusting 100g plain flour 2 tbsp cocoa powder ½ tsp baking powder 1½ tsp vanilla extract red gel food colouring 150g black cherry jam
1 To make the ice cream, whisk the egg whites in a bowl with an electric whisk until stiff. In another bowl, whisk the yolks, icing sugar and vanilla seeds until pale and thick like fresh custard. In a third bowl, whip the double cream until just holding its shape. Fold the yolk mixture into the cream and stir in about half of the cherries from the jar, leaving the kirsch behind. Now fold in the egg whites. Pour into a 900g loaf tin lined with a sheet of baking parchment that overlaps each side – you will use this to roll your ice cream later. Freeze for 2 hrs. 2 Remove the ice cream from the freezer and tin when it feels set but soft. Lift out of the tin on the parchment. Use a spatula to shape the mixture into a rough sausage shape, then use the parchment to roll the mixture tightly together into a cylinder about 35cm in length. Twist the ends of the baking parchment like a cracker and return to the freezer for a 1 hr. 3 Heat oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Line a 24 x 32cm Swiss roll tin with baking parchment (with plenty of excess) and butter well. Whisk the eggs and sugar with an electric hand whisk for 2-3 mins or until thickened and pale. Sift the flour, cocoa powder and baking powder into the egg mixture and add the vanilla extract and fold everything together with a large metal spoon until there are no pockets of flour visible. Scoop 50g of the mixture into a small bowl and add a small amount of red food colouring. Mix well, then transfer to a piping bag. Pipe polka dots onto your prepared Swiss roll tin and bake in the oven for 2 mins. Remove from the oven, then pour the rest of the sponge mixture over to cover the dots and fill the tray completely. Bake for 15 mins or until lightly golden and springy to the touch. 4 Remove from the oven, allow to cool until cool enough to handle, then carefully roll up the sponge while it’s still warm (keeping the baking parchment attached). Leave to cool completely in its rolled-up shape. Uncurl the sponge and spread the jam on the inside. Working quickly, unwrap the ice cream and put it on top of the jam. Roll the cake up around it. 5 Wrap the roll in a new sheet of baking parchment and a layer of foil. Return to the freezer for at least a further 20-30 mins, then unwrap, slice and serve. PER SERVING (10) 257 kcals • fat 9g • saturates 5g • carbs 38g • sugars 23g • fibre 1g • protein 5g • salt 0.2g
Shoot director MARTIN TOPPING | Food stylist KATY GILHOOLY | Stylist SARAH BIRKS
comfort
“This is the distillation of 50 years of gardening experience”
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opinion
Victoria Moore
The joy of cringey wines!
Is it time for unfashionable wines of bygone days to make a comeback? @how_to_drink
@planetvictoria
This month, I’m drinking Thomas Dakin Small Batch Gin (Waitrose, £25) This is an unusual gin, with texture and plenty of throaty fire. It’s distilled in Manchester using sweet orange and horseradish. Mix with tonic and serve with a slice of orange (or blood orange, come winter) and lots of ice.
What to eat with
+
Valpolicella Ripasso 2015 Italy (£10.50, M&S) The thick texture and sweetsour cherry taste reminds me of velvet drapes and baroque churches. Try it with the spiced duck on p107.
+
Muriel Tempranillo Rioja 2014 Spain (£8.49, Co-op) The red berry flavours of rioja are perfect in autumn. Drink with the bacallà a la llauna on p125.
OCTOBER 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 71
Portrait CLARA MOLDEN
e may snigger about Blue Nun, but I’ve poured Doctor Who had white bouffant hair, there’s a decent chance it for unsuspecting friends towards the end of these wine styles won’t sound appealing to you. Here’s a good an evening and had them rave about it. What reason to try them, or at least something like them: modern do they love? The girlish, meadow-like scent, versions of medium-dry German riesling are amazing with for one thing. The sweetness, for another. Yes, I know it’s not many contemporary foods that can otherwise be tricky to popular to talk about sweetness in wine, but this is sweetness pair wines with. One example: Asian-influenced salads and like the juice of a ripe nectarine or the cool flesh of a fresh rice noodle dishes doused in lime, chilli and fish sauce dressings. grape – which is exactly where it comes from. It’s The bright tang of riesling is great with lime, and the an attractive quality, if you think about it like that. fruity succulence of sweet versions mediates the Back in the day, medium-dry German wines effect of the chilli and goes well with mango or papaya. such as Blue Nun and Black Tower were all the A non-dry German riesling can also work well with Back in rage, but nowadays we sneer at them. The words the heat of harissa. I use this north African chilli paste the day, ‘hock’ and ‘liebfraumilch’ are also wine no-nos, to add some spice to chicken dishes, or mix it with olive wines like though I suspect most of us cringe without really oil, pomegranate seeds and garlic, and use it as a knowing what they mean. Let me tell you. marinade for roast quail. Either way, sweeter German Blue Nun Hock is an entirely British term. It comes from rieslings go beautifully with the finished dish. and Black the word Hochheimer, meaning wines from the In more traditional cooking, the presence of sweet Tower town of Hochheim am Main, near Frankfurt. fruit also makes a case for one of these non-dry were all Dating back to the 17th century, it supposedly wines. Perhaps the most perfect match here is roast the rage, denotes any white wine from the Rhine area, pork, or a pork chop with a herb crust, served with but now though I’d argue that we use it now to talk about stewed apple sauce, or pommes boulangère with we sneer a certain style of cheap, sweetish German riesling. slices of eating apples layered between the potatoes Liebfraumilch is more specific and actually has and onion. Try eating some of these dishes with a at them a legal definition. At least 70% of the wine must glass of the apple-y, refreshing, not-dry Dr L Riesling be made from silvaner, riesling, müller-thurgau 2016, Germany (Adnams, £9.99). or kerner; it must come from one of four regions Next month: Victoria recommends (Nahe, Rheinhessen, Pfalz or Rheingau) and wines for Christmas and Boxing Day it must be medium-dry (with between 18 and 45 grams per litre of residual sugar, to be precise). Victoria Moore is an award-winning wine columnist and author. Unless you’re a wine geek (geeks love a bit of German Her new book, The Wine Dine Dictionary (£20, Granta), is out now. riesling action) or a time traveller from the days when
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“op nioN
The food and trends getting our columnists excited this month
31 new-wave comfort food dishes, p76
I tried to woo him with a
sarnie! Sara Cox, p88
High-street takeaways at
home Emma Freud, p86 Let’s stop supersizing
cakes Joanna Blythman, p85 OCTOBER 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 75
Thenew
Across the UK, a new generation of chefs are giving a thrilling new twist to the classics we grew up with words CHLOE SCOTT-MONCRIEFF
C
omfort food will always be synonymous with bangers and mash, nursery food and gastropubs, but a new movement is emerging in Britain. The dishes are often still loaded with nostalgia, but what’s different is that these meals thrill as much as they sate. Partially responsible for this quiet revolution is the next generation of classically trained chefs, who are rebuffing fussy food and stuffy service for unpretentious cooking. ‘Chefs are finally realising you’ve got to give people what they want to eat, not what you want to cook,’ explains Tommy Banks, head chef at The Black Swan in Oldstead, Yorkshire, and one of this year’s BBC Great British Menu winners. His menu includes comfort foods such as beetroot cooked in beef fat for four hours, until caramelised – ‘it tastes like a steak but it’s beetroot, so it’s familiar, but like nothing you’ve tried before.’ It’s just the ethos Jackson Boxer takes at Chess Club and Brunswick House, in London. ‘With foods like cauliflower cheese, often swaddled and overcooked, your first mouthful is exciting but then it trails off, you get ennui,’ says Jackson, who can be found making dishes like herb gnocchi with artichoke, girolles and 76 bbcgoodfood.com OCTOBER 2017
melt-in-the-mouth Graceburn cheese. ‘To reinvigorate them, they’re being cast in a new light.’ Vegetables were underrated in the old format, but now they’re likely to play a pivotal role, thanks to vegan and vegetarian-specific menus. ‘The most comforting food can be salad leaves, freshly picked – we’ve become healthier, and more appreciative of veg,’ he says. Another part of the trend is its embrace of the childhood staples of other cultures, like ramen, pho and bao. With their easy, silken textures, we’re finding they can be as reassuring as shepherd’s pie and spag bol. Remi Williams and Aaron Webster at Smoke & Salt in Pop, in Brixton, tinker with this approach. These culinary magpies make cross-cultural Tommy Banks, head chef and one of this references, from Scandinavian to year’s BBC Great British Menu winners Korean, on their menu, nourishing with delicate textures, while paradoxically exhilarating palates. There, diners swoon over soft merguez tartare with warm flatbread. ‘There’s a shift to informality but also a lot of chefs are moving from convention, they’re being bolder,’ Remi says, from his kitchen. ‘Nowadays, comfort meals can challenge and have big flavours, as well as satisfy.’ Comfort food, it seems, has grown up.
‘Chefs are finally realising you’ve got to give people what they want to eat, not what you want to cook’
Photographs BBC/OPTOMEN TV/ANDREW HAYES-WATKINS, CHARLIE FLOUNDERS PHOTOGRAPHY, FOOD ESHE, SOPHIA SPRING
com ort
opinion
Hobnobs cheesecake from Duck & Waffle chef Dan Doherty’s pop-up restaurant, Sprout
OCTOBER 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 77
31
BEST-EVER MODERN COMFORT FOOD DISHES Asian-ish
1
This year’s must-try winter stew is mutton porridge at Birmingham’s Lasan. Chef Aktar Islam cooks mutton lamb shanks for eight hours. The unctuous bone marrow, sticky collagen and stock is simmered with oats and bulgar wheat. Bengali lemon – the edible rinds explode with zestiness – and ginger run through it. ‘It’s warming and curing,’ says Aktar. lasan.co.uk
2
Healthy-ish
4
Ackee burrito at Wulf & Lamb, in London’s Chelsea, is bursting with organic black beans, red rice for extra nutrients and buttery ackee fruit from Jamaica. General manager Helen Carino says further luxuriousness is imparted with the homemade, dairy-free sour cream made with cashews, lemon ‘and a few other secrets.’ Wulf & Lamb opens in autumn, wulfandlamb.com
Coveted by in-the-know A Northern Bristolians is ‘KFC’, Irish riff on the Korean fried Basque kokotxa, chicken bao, in a Chris Magowan’s cloud-soft, doughy cod cheeks & bao bun, at Woky oyster mayo at Ko. Its inventor, Wine & Brine MasterChef finalist in County Larkin Cen, says, Armagh, slip ‘The bun almost down the gullet melts in your as easily. ‘We use mouth. Then you cheeks as they’re get the crispy batter sustainable and of the chicken and when fish are Mutton porridge at Lasan inherent flavour filleted, the cheeks of kimchi. The are normally chicken is discarded or in marinated in shaoxing rice wine, sesame stocks.’ He brines them, tenderising and oil, salt and sugar overnight, then deep seasoning the flesh for a gentle, creamyfried to order.’ woky.co smooth texture. wineandbrine.co.uk
3
Curry nerds head to Gloucestershire for Prithvi Restaurant’s slowcooked ox cheek, carrots, clove & caramelised onion. There, Aziz Rahman simmers cheeks, garlic, ginger, cloves, cardamom and cumin for three hours. ‘Ox cheeks are fantastically flavoursome and gelatinous, which lend handsomely to the spicy aromas. The result is extraordinary.’ says Rahman. prithvirestaurant.com 78 bbcgoodfood.com OCTOBER 2017
New potatoes with beef heart at Smoke & Salt
Ackee burrito at Wulf & Lamb
5
6
Kid cannelloni with beetroot, rosehip, goat’s curd & sunflower seeds sparkles with indulgence. Chef David Everitt-Matthias at Le Champignon Sauvage, the two Michelin-starred restaurant in Cheltenham, braises kid shoulders for 5-6 hours with pigs’ trotters, layers the pulled meat between sheets of celeriac ‘pasta’, then bakes it. Creamy goat curd ‘Jam’ is the pièce de résistance. lechampignonsauvage.co.uk
Cheese
7
The époisses & preserved cherry sandwich at The Patricia in Newcastle has gathered fans fast since former River Café chef Nick Grieves opened the restaurant last year. ‘We’ve kept it on by demand,’ says Grieves, who preserves the cherries in kirsch, cooks the sourdough in melted butter and keeps the époisses at room temperature, ‘because it’s so soft, it’s like it’s been in a cheese press.’ the-patricia.com
8
Crisp new potatoes with green pepper, hot and sour chimichurri and beef heart, in creamy gorgonzola sauce, packs a flavour-punch. Its creator, chef Aaron Webster at Smoke & Salt, in Pop in London’s Brixton, says, ‘The creamy gorgonzola with the beef is a perfect balance. We wanted to surprise people with the slivers of beef heart.’ smokeandsalt.com
9
Nick Deverell-Smith at The Churchill Arms in The Cotswolds has just competed on the BBC’s Great British Menu. We can see why with this high-octane lobster macaroni cheese (below). A lobster bisque is added to a roux of three cheeses, then the macaroni, lobster flesh and tarragon is mixed in, before a lobster head is placed theatrically on top. churchillarms.co
opinion
Smoke & Salt chefs Aaron Webster (left) and Remi Williams
‘There’s a shift to informality but also a lot of chefs are moving from convention, they’re being bolder’ Remi Williams, Smoke & Salt
Mum’s the word
10
‘My Mum used to make cullen skink, a fish stew I’d have with peas as a kid. My interpretation is a finnan haddie risotto,’ says John Quigley from Red Onion in Glasgow. Finnan haddie is creamy smoked haddock. ‘It’s relatively expensive so a little goes a long way. Then there’s cream, butter, peas, parmesan and a soft poached egg. The result is smoky, sweet and creamy.’ red-onion.co.uk
11
Iconic Bibendum, where chef-great Claude Bosi resides, plates up the meanest “my mum's tripe & cuttlefish gratin”, a sublime sticky stew with meatloaf-y ‘cake’ bread, to mop up juices. Bosi reminisces, ‘She used to make it for me with my brother. It's a dish I cook myself at the restaurant as there isn't a recipe.’ bibendum.co.uk
12
A cherry and meadowsweet parfait, pistachio and white chocolate, cherry cream and sour cherry sorbet by ex-Marcus Wareing chef, Jake White, is heaped in nostalgic memories. From Cumbria’s Pentonbridge Inn, he says it’s inspired by his mum’s cherry compote and ice cream: ‘We had a family friend with a cherry tree. I can still remember the taste of a warm cherry picked and eaten fresh.’ pentonbridgeinn.co.uk Tripe & cuttlefish gratin at Bibendum
Vegetarian
13
Oxford’s hottest new restaurant, Arbequina, has a dedicated veg section. If the collapsing, caramelised butternut squash, chickpeas & coriander doesn’t make you rejoice, we’re don’t know what will. Tahini, loosened with Arbequina olive oil and yogurt, unifies it. arbequina.co.uk
14
Nopi’s vegan breakfast of harissa scrambled tofu, by chef Claire Hodgson, is heaving with flavour. She scrambles silken tofu with olive oil, onion, rose harissa, and salt. There’s toasted sourdough as a base and an avocado salad, it’s ‘indulgent, without being overwhelming.’ ottolenghi.co.uk
15
The acme of the classic leek and cheese combo is Chris Harrod’s charred leek, nasturtium, herb flowers & cheese sauce at The Whitebrook in rural Monmouthshire. The leeks, sous-vided in their own juices, are then charred on the grill, rendering them sweet and smoky. thewhitebrook.co.uk OCTOBER 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 79
‘We had a family friend with a cherry tree, I can still remember the taste of a cherry, freshly picked’ Jake White, Pentonbridge Inn
Carbs
Italians do it better
21
24
22
25
20
Discerning Mancunians are seeking kimchi fries at Common in the Northern Quarter. No ordinary chips, these are a flavour-rumpus: think crunchy fries with softer textures of fermented cabbage and radishes, each forkful bound together with ssäm sauce and studded with crispy onions. aplacecalledcommon.co.uk Spanish chicken & chorizo at Le Roi Fou
Updated classics
16
Playful? Tick. Flavoursome? Tick. The seventies classic, ham and pineapple pizza, by chef Peter SanchezIglesias at Bristol’s Pi Shop is made from sourdough fermented for 24 hours. Fatty Ibérico pork shoulder jostles with sweet pineapples which are poached in a sugar syrup and infused with chilli, star anise & coriander seed. thepishop.co.uk
17
Move over pâté on toast, welcome game terrine with duck fat-soaked brioche and redcurrant. At Michelinstarred The Black Rat in Winchester, Jon Marsden-Jones says it was born of a food-waste issue, ‘We had a load of ducks and had rendered down all this fat, we were wondering what to do with it, that’s how this started.’ theblackrat.co.uk
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At Silo in Brighton, zero-waste chef Douglas McMaster makes potato dumplings in blue cheese sauce with roasted young golden beets. Even better, the dumplings are deep fried. With a combo of roasted beets and raw ribbons of golden beet, dressed in lavender vinegar and sprinkled with fresh lemon thyme, this becomes a stand out. silobrighton.com The potato and ox tongue at The Wigmore is already a classic, ‘a meal in its own right,’ says Roux protégé Chris King from The Langham Hotel. Paper thin-cut potatoes, layered with slivers of salted ox-tongue, are pressed, steamed and fried, transforming them into hot, crisp, salty flakes. A classic anchoïade dip (Spanish cantabrian anchovies, if you’re asking) gives a kick. the-wigmore.co.uk
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‘This is a big Yorkshire cuddle,’ says Giorgio Alessio, originally from Piedmont in northern Italy, of his handmade black pud ravioli with an English mustard & sage sauce (above). Causing a frisson in his restaurant, Lanterna in Scarborough, it’s called agnolotti al sanguinaccio. lanterna-ristorante.co.uk Stubby dumplings, freshened up with dollops of ricotta and sweet pumpkin, make Tim Siadatan’s gnudi of pumpkin & ricotta the autumn hit at Padella in London’s Borough. No fuss, no faff, these are simple flavours, punctuated with a little nutmeg and parmesan. ‘The dumplings just melt in your mouth,’ explains Siadatan. padella.co The must-guzzle is ox cheek with polenta bianco, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo & dark chocolate sauce at Harrogate’s hottest restaurant, Stuzzi, where they perfect stuzzichini, small osteria-style plates. ‘The first time we saw beef cooked in wine and chocolate was while visiting friends in Pescera in Abruzzo,’ says co-owner, Tom Pearson. ‘The gelatine from the cheek melts into the chocolate making it glisten.’ stuzzi.co.uk
Potato dumplings at Silo
Spanish chicken and chorizo has been done by everyone from Nigella to Delia, but Jerome Henry isn’t afraid of rejuvenating it at Le Roi Fou in Edinburgh. He whips up grilled Cotswold chicken leg with roasted piquillo pepper, cocoa beans & salty chorizo. leroifou.com
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A sponge cake is a granny classic, so it’s no surprise Jackson Boxer says his pear, fennel, rosemary & caramel edition from Chess Club, was inspired by his maternal grandmother. ‘Weekends with her were embellished by very fine sponge cakes at tea,’ says Boxer. chessclublondon.com 80 bbcgoodfood.com OCTOBER 2017
Kimchi fries at Common
opinion
Brunch
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Run by father-and- daughter team Chris and Joanna Brennan, Pump Street Bakery in Suffolk’s Orford is a go-to for brunch. Much sought-after is maple and rosemary sausage with a butter-glazed free range egg in homemade brioche. Joanna says, ‘the maple sausages are inspired by the sweet-salty combination classics in Canadian sugar shacks from my childhood.’ pumpstreetbakery.com
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It might be hard to reinvent eggs Benedict, but here we have: the matsuhisa Benedict, a Japanese twist at Nobu Hotel in Shoreditch. A deep-fried crispy tofu base is layered with spinach, smoked crab (kani), poached eggs, and aromatic shiso béarnaise sauce. There are salmon eggs (ikura) to boot. nobuhotelshoreditch.com
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Light, delicate, gentle are three adjectives to describe Tom Adams’ home-made yogurt. At his guesthouse, Coombeshead Farm in Cornwall’s Lewannick, guests fight for it. Ambrosial raw Cornish milk is heated gently, before blackcurrant leaves or fresh nettles are added as the cultures. Sausage and egg brioche coombesheadfarm. at Pump Street Bakery co.uk
‘The most comforting food can be salad leaves, freshly picked – we’ve become healthier and more appreciative of veg’ Jackson Boxer, Chess Club
Childhood favourites reimagined
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We reckon chocolate & caramel ‘Snickers’ with peanut ice cream by pastry chef Tracey Rutt and Michael Chapman, at Hurley House Hotel in Henley-on-Thames, is the most cosseting comfort dessert. It’s a naughty mix of chocolate flourless sponge, caramel mousse, piped silken chocolate crémeaux, roasted salted peanuts and caramel shards. hurleyhouse.co.uk
30
‘My grandparents always gave me lamb, apple and mint,’ recalls Tommy Banks, head chef at The Black Swan in Oldstead, Yorkshire, and one of this year’s BBC Great British Menu winners. Meet the descendent: Texel lamb with turnip & mint. ‘I pickle apple
mint leaves, you bite into the fatty rack of lamb and it melts in the mouth, it’s served with a rich fermented turnip purée, almost like puréed potato.’ blackswanoldstead.co.uk
Lamb with turnip & mint at The Black Swan
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A Hobnobs cheesecake is toothachingly evocative, but Dan Doherty’s biscuits crumbled on top are homemade, while buttermilk in the cheese keeps it lively. There’s also a trickle of vinegar in the caramel to ‘take the flavours up a notch,’ says Doherty, from Sprout’s pop-up kitchen. ‘The fruit in it changes throughout the year, from peaches to plums, or roasted apples.’ Sprout opens soon. @sproutrest_ @sproutrestaurant_
OCTOBER 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 81
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Une petite indulgence Introducing Bonne Maman’s delicious new caramels range. They’re luxuriously smooth and highly versatile, so which will you try first – Salted Caramel or Hazelnut Praline Caramel?
Banoffee in a jar
SERVES 8 1 PREP 10 MINS PLUS CHILLING
1 NO COOK
For the biscuit base 50g unsalted butter, melted 125g digestive biscuits, crushed For the filling 85g unsalted butter 50g light soft brown sugar 220g jar Bonne Maman Salted Caramel For the topping 300ml double cream 1 tsp strong black coffee, cold 3 medium ripe bananas, sliced and tossed in a squeeze of lemon juice plain chocolate curls or shards, to decorate
1 To make the base, stir the butter nstantly recognisable thanks to the signature red gingham lid, Bonne Maman is one of Britain’s best-loved conserves. It is made in France using simple, traditional methods and high-quality, all-natural ingredients. That same attention to detail and care is extended to the way the brand’s other products – including its marmalades, compotes and now its new incredible-tasting caramels – are created. Bonne Maman’s Salted Caramel is made from a rich caramel that’s lightly seasoned with Guérande sea salt from the northwestern coast of France, while the Hazelnut Praline Caramel uses a deeper, dark and more intense caramel base flavoured with lightly toasted hazelnuts. You can enjoy the Hazelnut Praline Caramel at breakfast spread over artisan bread or thin French-style crêpes. The Salted Caramel, on the other hand, is fantastic slightly warmed and drizzled over pancakes, waffles and desserts. And, if you add a little apple juice to the
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Why not try? caramel as it’s Warm the Hazelnut warming, you can Praline Caramel into create a light apple caramel sauce that’s a toffee sauce and pour over ice cream, delicious poured waffles or fruit for a over soft fruit. sweet treat. Both of the moreish caramels work extremely well in cakes and bakes, adding an extra depth of flavour to chocolate fudge cakes, banoffee pie and more. The new 220g jars are just the right size for fun individual servings – try this quick and easy recipe for banoffee in a jar, perfect for a picnic or a dinner party. Bonne Maman Salted Caramel (rrp £2.19) and Hazelnut Praline Caramel (£2.39) are now available at Sainsbury’s, Waitrose, Tesco and Morrisons, as well as Ocado, Amazon and independent fine food stores.
into the biscuits. Divide the mixture between 8 x 220g Bonne Maman jars, then press into the base of each with the back of a spoon. Chill for 10 mins. 2 For the filling, slowly melt the butter and sugar together in a small, non-stick saucepan and stir with a wooden spoon to dissolve the sugar. Stir in the Bonne Maman Salted Caramel and bring to the boil, stirring all the time until very smooth. Pour an equal amount into each of the jars and leave to cool and set. 3 Once the caramel filling has set, make the topping. Whip the cream until it just begins to hold its shape. Fold in the coffee and continue whisking until the cream is lightly whipped. Spoon the bananas on top of the caramel in each jar, followed by the whipped cream. Sprinkle over the chocolate. The base and filling will keep covered in the fridge for 2-3 days. Once you add the topping, serve within 2-3 hrs.
opinion
Tony Naylor eats at
Ham & Friends
Set in the foodie paradise of Leeds’ Victorian Grand Arcade, this is, not surprisingly with this name, a charcuterie hotspot @naylor_tony
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Portrait DAVID COTSWORTH | Photographs VICTORIA HARLEY
n an era when the London restaurant Sexy Fish thrives and people eat at the extraordinarilynamed Cabbages & Condoms restaurants (FYI they fund a sexual health NGO in Thailand), you may argue that what you call a restaurant is irrelevant. Create good food or a glam destination and people will come, regardless of any dissonant allusions to prophylactics or curvy cod with come-to-bed eyes. Nonetheless, I dislike the dreary predictability of Ham & Friends, a spin-off from the Friends of Ham venues, which, in Leeds and Ilkley, serve cured meats of distinction alongside A1 craft beers. Granted, it’s hard to stretch that porcine conceit further (try it: Piggy Pals sounds juvenile; the Pleasures of Pork pornographic), and I can see how Ham & Friends emphasises the conviviality of this enterprise. But it also rather undersells this foodie spectacular. Folded into Leeds’ Victorian Grand Arcade – an architectural stunner which lends Ham & Friends a certain grandeur – this multilevel complex comprises a bar, restaurant, delicatessen, George & Joseph’s cheese shop, a vintners and the Yorkshire Wine School. On a Thursday night, it was buzzing with activity. Regulars
were enjoying the monthly cheese club and, upstairs, artisan wine-maker Le Grappin (H&F loves smallproducer, biodynamic and natural wines), was holding a tasting – a scene to make any Good Food reader giddy. In some ways, it’s a pity I was booked into the restaurant. Don’t get me wrong: it’s a cool ‘n’ comfortable, modish space, and the aproned staff were sunny and obliging (if you can catch their eye; the design of the room is not great in that regard). Likewise, the food is solid 6/10 stuff. But, frankly, and particularly in the context of this living celebration of exceptional produce, the lack of finesse and, at times, bold flavours in these small plates was frustrating. A platter of charcuterie was a terrific kaleidoscope of funky flavours, but pointlessly warmed bread (not toasted, more hardened), served with deliriously creamy butter, set a precedent of ham-fisted (sorry!) flaws which persisted through every dish. With the exception of the breaded lamb ‘scrumpet’ balls with salsa verde. Those I could have inhaled a dozen of. For instance, a dish of fried Old Winchester potato dumplings, caramelised cauliflower and hazelnuts is, initially, heaven: a savoury crescendo of hard-browned cheesy carbs. But it lacks something (more herbs or some lemon zest), to cut through its, ultimately, rather one-dimensional greasiness. Similarly, the borderline dry, flavour-light pig’s cheeks (the irony!) undermine an otherwise beautiful dish of lemon-tinged, shaved Jerusalem artichoke in a cracking blanquette. Rather mushy, dull mackerel marred a sound idea: off-setting the oily fish and its smoky grilled skin with pickled fennel. And dessert of (flourless, I’m guessing) chocolate cake lacked real cocoa kapow! And without any boozy or sour edge, the cherries added little. The pacing did not help, either. Despite my pleas, as is so often the case with small plates, these were not sufficiently staggered. After a first wave, then a gap, too much food turned up too quickly. By the time we got to the octopus and nduja broth, it was lukewarm. That is no way to enjoy such a punchy, peasant dish. As a concept, I love Ham & Friends. Come, shop, browse, drink fascinating wine (a Landron Chartier pet-nat red was our pick), snack on fine charcuterie, eat cheese, knock yourself out. In many ways, it’s a foodie nirvana. But the restaurant could be sharper. Tony Naylor, who lives in Manchester, writes regularly for Restaurant magazine and The Guardian.
WHERE Grand Arcade, Leeds LS1 6PG 0113 468 3890 hamandfriends. com COST Dinner for two around £90. BEST DISH Crispy lamb belly scrumpet. VERDICT A foodie nirvana but, on this visit, a flawed restaurant.
For more from Tony Naylor, see p162
next month
Jean-Georges at The Connaught
OCTOBER 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 83
Want to learn to make pasta like a professional?
Book your space for a pasta masterclass at the Bellavita Academy in London, E1, with master pasta Chef Simone Remoli the creator of Pasta Remoli. Perfect for the enthusiastic home cook, learn how to prepare perfect pastas and sauces, using beautiful seasonal ingredients. Classes take place one evening a week for four weeks · Plain pastas with authentic Italian sauces · Different varieties of potato gnocchi
· Different varieties of filled pasta · Baked pasta dishes
The entire course is £275 which includes a glorious dinner at the end of your course cooked by Simone himself at Pasta Remoli Finsbury Park, or choose individual classes for £75 per class. To book your course please visit www.bellavita.academy/courses/remoli BELLAVITA ACADEMY 11c Dock Street London, E1 8JN t: 020 3002 0506 e:
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opinion
Joanna Blythman
Enough with the supersized sweets
Bakes and biscuits have ballooned, but it’s time to downsize
Portrait ALAN PEBBLES | Photograph STOCKFOOD
@joannablythman
n the café of a stately home recently, I must have appeared rather stupid by asking the very pleasant woman behind the counter if they had any scones. She looked at me, surprised, then pointed to a basket of baked rounds that were the size of a side plate and about three inches thick. I hadn’t recognised them as scones, taking them as circular loaves. The ‘deal’ with these supersized scones was that, for £6.99, they came with a tiny pot of jam, and either butter or cream (also small), which was never going to be enough to anoint the vast scone, and a one-cup pot of tea. ‘They’re enough for two people,’ she explained. But what I really wanted was a ‘normal’ scone – much smaller, with the ideal ratio of crust to airy middle, so that it wasn’t just a pile of doughy stodge, and about half the price. This experience brought home to me that British cakes and baking have been supersized. It’s not just scones that have exploded – biscuits have been reinvented as giant cookies. And think of those meringues with the dimensions of a small cloud. I’m exaggerating, but meringues used to be manageably proportioned, which was wise, given how much sugar they contain. Eyeing up cake counters these days, it seems to me that all the classic cakes (Victoria sponge,
chocolate, carrot, lemon drizzle) have deepened and doubled. They look stunning, of course, but it reminds me of the first time I visited the US, my eyes popping at how everything sweet seemed to be twice as large as back home. Are we catching up with the US, or just catching one of its bad eating habits? It’s a curious phenomenon, given what’s happening in restaurants, where small plates and tapas portions are fashionable. Downsizing dishes works well in restaurants because it keeps the bill down and diners don’t have to plump for one dish – they can hedge their bets and try out a few. We need to introduce the same logic in the cakes department. It’s crazy that nowadays, when reducing sugar is considered to
Are we catching up with the US, or just catching one of its bad eating habits?
be the paramount tip for good health after giving up smoking, our plates are heaped with cartoon-sized cakes. Like everyone else, I love a good scone or cake, but a few mouthfuls are really enough to satisfy the urge. I appreciate that visual abundance and generosity sells baking, but do any of us really need to chomp through a slice that would easily serve two? Either we end up overeating, or we’re defeated because our eyes were bigger than our stomachs. Small is beautiful in my recipe book. As someone who agonises over which confection to go for, I’d welcome being able to taste two or three small but excellent ones. If we’re honest, lots of sponge-type cakes are pretty dull after a few bites. Even the finest brownie is sickeningly rich if you eat too much. As all bakers know, ingredients these days are expensive. Fruit, chocolate and the like all rack-up big bills. Substituting lower-grade ingredients isn’t the answer, but reducing size could be the new way to cut expense without sacrificing quality, and restore a civilised and healthy sense of proportion to our bakery selections. Good Food contributing editor Joanna is an award-winning journalist who has written about food for 25 years. She is also a regular contributor to BBC Radio 4.
SMALL CAKES RULE THE WORLD Italy Every pasticceria sells small versions of cannoli, cassata and cream puffs.
Japan Most teahouses serve tiny wagashi cakes made from bean paste.
France Typical cake shops sell friands, small tarts, mini canelé and macarons.
Greece Nutty, syrupy kadaifi and baklava are sold in bitesized pieces.
Russia Mini rogaliki pastries (rugelach) are filled with cream cheese and nuts.
Do you agree with Joanna? Let us know on Facebook and Twitter #bbcgfopinion
next month
Joanna looks at the explosion of food delivery services
OCTOBER 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 85
How we eat now
Secrets of the High Street takeaways Emma Freud finds out how to make her family’s favourite takeaways at home. But do they taste as good? @emmafreud
Spike, I’ve had an idea… you’re choosing tonight’s supper and cooking it.
I’ll pass, thanks. It’s probably for an article about boys cooking or something so you’re only trying to use me to make a point. Again.
Okay, how about this… if you were going to cook dinner, what would you make? Nando’s. No you have to cook it, not buy it.
Oh… then… Nando’s. I’d cook Nando’s. And how would you do that? You buy chicken, you buy Nando’s sauce. You cook it, and then you eat it. Or pizza.
Now we’re talking, what flavour of pizza?
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Pizza Express pizza.
o that went well. I think the point is that this post-millennial generation is so used to takeaways that the ideal home-cooked meal is something which tastes as close as possible to fast food. So reader, I have a plan… making brilliant copycat fast food at home. The trick is making it look and taste as close as possible to something that arrived on a bike, while using healthy and easy-to-buy ingredients. There’s a multitude of information available online for making ‘takeaways’ at home, but I’ve done the hard work for you. These are my top tips. Pizza Express-inspired pizzas If I had a pound for every time I’d seen my children’s ‘underwhelmed’ faces when I presented my homemade pizza, I wouldn’t need to be writing this article. Turns out it’s not the ingredients at fault; it’s the heat of the oven. What you need is a stovetop pizza oven: they sit on your hob, take 12-15 minutes to get to over 300 degrees, and turn out crispy pizzas in less than 5 minutes. When a pizza cooks that fast, everything about it is better and so much more like a… what’s the word… takeaway. Also FYI, dried oregano is Pizza Express’s signature herb. 86 bbcgoodfood.com OCTOBER 2017
Big Mac-style burgers This one’s more complicated but eminently achievable. To be authentic, use only 45 grams of beef per patty (two patties for a Big Mac). The onion layer is made by chopping an onion very finely and drying it out in a microwave to intensify the flavour, before spreading under the patty, not over it. Then cheese, lettuce, two slices of pickle and ‘special sauce’ made by mixing mayonnaise, gherkin relish, grated onion, vinegar, sugar, mild mustard and my secret ingredient: Marmite. Chicken tikka masala The way to make this dish closer to a classic is to marinate the chicken in yogurt and spices, then char-griddle it to blacken the edges before adding it to the spicy tomato sauce. Nando’s-style chicken Blitz lime juice, ginger, chilli flakes, sweet paprika, red wine vinegar, garlic, parsley, salt, pepper, olive oil and a shallot. Butterfly a whole chicken by cutting out the backbone, and smother in sauce. Marinate for an hour, then roast for 50 minutes in an oven set to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Serve with Nando’s Hot Peri-Peri Sauce, which you can buy at Waitrose. Sesame prawn toast It never occurred to me that you could cook this at home. But you can, and it works. Blitz raw prawns, garlic, ginger, chilli, onion, an egg, soy sauce and sesame oil. Spread thickly onto day-old bread, cover with sesame seeds, and shallow fry. Popcorn chicken There is a magic ingredient here, and it’s baking powder – that’s what makes the nuggets puff. To fool even the most experienced KFC customer, take pieces of chicken, roll them in flour that you’ve seasoned with chilli powder, salt and baking powder, dunk them in buttermilk and roll in panko breadcrumbs. Then do all three again so the nugget has a double layer for massive crunch. Fry in vegetable oil, drain on kitchen paper, and you may find Bob is actually your uncle. If none of the above work, buy some little takeaway containers, fake a conversation with a bike delivery guy (‘How much? You’ve got to be kidding!’), and tell the children how lucky they are to have a parent like you who gets them takeaway. Good Food contributing editor Emma Freud is a journalist and broadcaster, director of Red Nose Day and a co-presenter of Radio Four’s Loose Ends.
Portrait DAVID COTSWORTH | Recipe photograph EMMA BOYNS | Food stylist ELENA SILCOCK
A conversation with my 13-year-old son, Spike:
opinion
Crispy duck with pancakes It is a truth universally acknowledged that you can only get crispy duck pancakes in a Chinese restaurant. But this version takes half an hour and is easy, healthier, and just as good. Even the pancakes are a doddle; made with just three ingredients, they cook in seconds. SERVES 2 PREP 10 mins COOK 30 mins EASY
½ cucumber, cut into thin matchsticks small bunch spring onions, shredded for the duck 1 tbsp honey 1 tsp Chinese five-spice powder 2 duck breasts (about 170g each)
for the plum sauce 5 plums, halved and stoned 50ml agave syrup 1 tbsp soy sauce ½ tsp Chinese five-spice powder for the pancakes 150g plain flour rapeseed oil, for brushing
The duck
Heat oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4. Mix the honey and five-spice in a bowl, then brush all over the duck. Transfer to a roasting tin and roast for 25-30 mins until bronzed. Cool for 10 mins, then shred the meat and finely slice the skin.
Sauce
While the duck is cooking, put all the plum sauce ingredients in a saucepan and simmer gently over a medium heat for 15 mins or until the plums are soft and the sauce is thick. Using a stick blender, blend until smooth.
Pancakes
While the sauce is cooking, put the flour, 125ml boiling water and a pinch of salt in a bowl and mix together until it forms a dough. When cool enough to handle, knead for 5-10 mins. Divide it into 10 little balls and roll each one out as thin as you can. Brush a frying pan with the oil and cook each pancake over a medium heat for 20 secs each side or until cooked but not browned.
To serve
Spread a pancake with a little plum sauce. Top with the shredded duck, a few pieces of cucumber and spring onion. PER SERVING 402 kcals • fat 18g • saturates 5g • carbs 44g • sugars 19g • fibre 3g • protein 13g • salt 0.9g
Discover more ‘takeaway’ recipes at bbcgoodfood.com
OCTOBER 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 87
Sara Cox’s food milestones
The DJ, TV presenter and mum-of-three on cattle, camping and poisoning her husband with sausages Interview by ROSANNA GREENSTREET
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ara Cox, 42, was born in Bolton and worked as a model before getting her big break in 1996 as a presenter on Channel 4’s The Girlie Show. By 2000, she was a DJ at the helm of the Breakfast Show on Radio One, where she spent nearly four years and recorded ratings of around 8 million listeners. In 2013, Sara made the move from Radio One to Radio Two, and currently hosts Sounds of The 80s on Saturday nights. For Red Nose Day 2017, Sara did a 24-hour danceathon, raising over £1 million. Married for the second time, she has three kids: Lola, 13, Isaac, nine, and Renee, seven. My earliest memory is being in a high chair in the garden of my dad’s farm in Bolton, at my sister’s birthday party. I am the youngest of five: when my mum met my dad he already had a three-year-old and 18-month old twins. At the party, a conga line of kids was skipping past and shoving cake into my mouth, and I found it hilarious. It was a complete choking hazard – it wouldn’t happen these days – and, of course, it ended badly, with lots of vomit.
mate) and her husband, Uncle Trevor, would turn up with a trailer tent – the height of sophistication – and Trevor would barbecue fresh mackerel. I’ve been obsessed with mackerel ever since. When I used to go to the cattle shows with my dad – he breeds Herefords – we slept in the cattle wagon; he’d sweep it out and put up a couple of Z beds. Essentially we were out in the fresh air, and we would wake up in the morning absolutely starving. Dad had a camping stove, and he would fry bacon and egg and make me the best sandwich. We’d also have a mug of tea made with his travel kettle. I still love camping, and love getting out my little stove. I DJ at Camp Bestival, and for the past six years we’ve taken the children and camped. I don’t know how keen on camping my husband Ben is, but he puts up with it!
The food that I loved at school was chocolate sponge with chocolate custard. The desserts were good at primary school, lots of lovely stodge. The school backed on to my dad’s fields, so I could see him on his tractor. My mum and dad divorced when I was six or seven, and we lived with my mum half a mile away. But I was at the farm most afternoons because I had a pony that I had to muck out.
My mum has handed down her broth pan to me. It’s massive – you could bathe an Alsatian in it. She has always made a lovely broth and I do it now: you soak a ham shank overnight to get a lot of the salt out and soak your dried soup mix. Then you put the shank in the pan, fill it with water, add the soup mix, pile in veg like celery, onion and turnip, and cook for a few hours. My mum worked really hard: when we were little she did a few different cleaning jobs, but later she did holiday relief for big country pubs. After that she ran Conservative clubs with my late step dad, and they had their own pub. I think my work ethic comes from my mum. I’m freelance, and I find it hard to say no to work. But my husband helped me see I don’t have to schlep halfway up the country to do something for 50p and my bus fare home – I can be choosy.
We used to go camping in Cornwall, and I loved our tent to bits. It had two bedrooms, one for me and my sis, Yvonne, and one for my mum and stepdad. Auntie Carol (my mum’s best
My sister Yvonne lived in Paris when I was 17 or 18. She was working for the electricity board as part of her degree – I thought it was the height of cool. When I went to visit, she had to
88 bbcgoodfood.com OCTOBER 2017
My kids love meat pie, and I love making it for them, as it reminds them of their northern heritage
opinion work during the day, so I goofed around Paris. I was in a boutique, and somebody asked if I’d ever thought of modelling. They put me in touch with a Manchester agency and the rest is history! Paris was lovely because my sister and I saw each other as individuals, not just the arch nemesis you had to share a room with. We were always close, but fought a lot; as we got older, we started to get on better. In Paris, she took me to a restaurant where we had this beef dish. She made me have a glass of red with it, and told me to taste the beef and then taste the wine. It was the first time I thought, ‘Gosh, this is more than just dinner – this is an experience!’ When Ben first stayed over I didn’t want him to leave because we were having such a nice time. I convinced him to stay by offering to make sausage sandwiches. But I didn’t defrost the sausages properly first, and he got really ill – I basically poisoned him! It was Christmas, so when I spoke to him on the phone, I tried to suggest that it might be because he’d eaten too much chocolate. In the end I confessed that it was probably the sausages. I cook my grandad’s plate meat pie for my kids. My grandad was a master baker, and used to make lovely pastry and mince pies. For the meat pie, I make a shortcrust and then cook the mince with a stock cube. I line a pie tin with the pastry, put in the mince and top with a pastry lid. My kids love it and I love making it, as it reminds them of their northern heritage. They live in London, and are used to eating sushi, but I want them to know where they come from too. It’s a traditional dish that’s basically meat, flour and butter – they lick their plates clean.
& Sara is an ambassador for the Feed Your Happy campaign, which celebrates organic food and encourages people to share why organic food makes them happy (#FeedYourHappy).
OCTOBER 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 89
Portrait CHRIS TERRY
At the moment my hallway is my kitchen because my kitchen is being renovated, so I’m using a barbecue, microwave, kettle, NutriBullet, toaster and sandwich maker to cook. We’ve been eating at the local Italian a lot too. The last meal I cooked was organic pork loin steaks in a marinade with organic asparagus – it was delicious.
Show highlights
20 – 22 October | Glasgow SEC Centre
A taste of Scotland
C
elebrate the finest local flavours as the BBC Good Food Show returns to Glasgow this autumn. This year’s fantastic NEW line-up includes Tom Kerridge, John Torode, Nadiya Hussain, Tom Kitchin and the Hairy Bikers, all cooking delicious seasonal dishes LIVE in the Big Kitchen.
Local Producers
Shop, taste and discover regional specialties and seasonal ingredients from a huge range of artisan and independent producers from Scotland and across the UK.
Plus there will be pop-up restaurants, great shopping, hands-on masterclasses, food and drink producers and the NEW BBC Good Food Stage.
BBC Good Food Stage
Eat like a local NEW for this year, join Barney Desmazery, food editor-at-large, alongside chefs and producers from some of the city’s finest local restaurants in these brand new sessions. Discover the inspiration behind the menus as head chef John Quigley from Red Onion and Scott Leask from The Drugstore Social step out of the restaurant kitchen and on to the Big Kitchen stage to share their tips and tricks in entertaining cookery demonstrations.
NEW to the Show this year, pick up top tips from your culinary heroes and local experts in live interviews, hosted by Barney Desmazery. Get your cooking questions ready!
Pop-Up Restaurants Taste your way around Glasgow’s culinary scene and try signature dishes at pop-ups of top local restaurants. This year we’ll be joined by Red Onion, The Drugstore Social and Two Fat Ladies.
Sessions are free so simply add one to your booking.
Readers save 20%* on tickets - quote GFR4 With thanks to our sponsors and supporters:
Show sponsor
Taste the Greatness sponsor
Small Appliance supplier
Shop & Drop supporter
Northern Ireland Bookshop
Knife supplier
10 – 12 November | Belfast Waterfront
Belfast’s most delicious day out W
e’re heading back to the food-loving city of Belfast this November with more great chefs and experts, the finest food and drink producers and lots of seasonal inspiration. NEW to the Big Kitchen line-up this year, Michelin master Michel Roux Jr and family favourite Nadiya Hussain will be cooking LIVE, plus John Torode and the Hairy Bikers are back. Every ticket includes a seat in the Big Kitchen to see your favourite star.
Show highlights
Taste the Greatness NEW for 2017, discover local flavours and regional specialties in Taste the Greatness tasting theatre sessions, presented by Discover Northern Ireland. Meet local restaurants, producers and Great Taste Winners and
BBC Good Food Stage
Book Signings
Great Shopping
Eating and Drinking
Discover the secrets to your favorite star’s success in live interviews. Sessions are free so take a seat and get ready to be inspired!
sample a selection of great produce as our guests tell you more about the provenance of the ingredients used.
Try before you buy and shop your way around a huge range of the finest regional and artisan producers.
Pick up the latest cook books from Easons and get your copy signed in book singing sessions. You might even get to snap a selfie!
Take a break from the Show floor at the BBC Good Food Pop-Up Restaurant, or pick up lunch from the NEW street food area.
bbcgoodfoodshow.com | 0844 581 1345 *Not valid on VIP Packages, Feast events, Gold Big Kitchen seats or with any other offer. Gold Big Kitchen seats cost an additional £3 and are subject to availability. Ends 25/10/17. £2.45 fulfilment fee per advance order. Calls cost 7p/minute plus phone company charges. Not all celebrities appear at all Shows or on all days. Details correct at time of print. The Good Food word mark and logo are trademarks of the BBC. ©BBC. Organised and presented by River Street Events.
30 November – 3 December | Birmingham NEC
The best of Birmingham K
ick-start your festive season with a food-filled day out this winter, packed with the UK’s best chefs and experts, hands-on masterclasses, great shopping and plenty of inspiration to get you in the Christmas spirit.
See your favourite chefs and experts cooking LIVE on stage in the Big Kitchen including Michelin masters Tom Kerridge, Michel Roux Jr and Raymond Blanc, queen of baking Mary Berry, family favourite Nadiya Hussain, the entertaining Hairy Bikers and Show favourite James Martin. Plus, celebrate the best of home cooking with The Big Family Cooking Showdown LIVE, NEW to the Show this year.
“An amazing foodie vibe!” Tom Kerridge
WIN the ultimate family day out Do you and your family love cooking together? Do you have a family recipe that’s been passed down through generations? We’re looking for the nation’s most foodie family to enjoy a day out like no other on Sunday 3 December. The winning family will receive tickets to the Show, seats in The Big Family Cooking Showdown Big Kitchen session, a backstage lunch with the chance to rub shoulders with your favourite chefs and experts, a Lakeland voucher to spend at the Show, plus lots more. Visit our website to find out more and for details on how to enter.
Readers save 20%* on tickets - quote GFR4 With thanks to our sponsors and supporters:
Show sponsor
BBC Good Food Stage sponsor
Winter Kitchen sponsor
Shop & Drop supporter
Seating Area sponsor
Join us as a VIP For the ultimate Show experience, why not treat yourself to a VIP day out? Enjoy all day access to our VIP Lounge, front block seats in your chosen Big Kitchen session, glass of fizz, goody bag and more. Or find out more about our VIP Luxe package where you can enjoy all of the benefits of VIP, plus extra Big Kitchen sessions with front row seats, private Luxe Lounge, complimentary bar and much more.
Show highlights
Winter Kitchen
See a host of famous faces cooking delicious winter warmers, plus pick up top tips to impress in the kitchen.
Skills School
Learn from the experts and get involved in hands-on masterclasses including knife skills and cake decorating.
BBC Good Food Stage See the magazine come to life and hear more from the stars in live interviews and demos.
Christmas shopping
Stock up for the festive season with treats from a host of artisan producers and your favourite big brands.
bbcgoodfoodshow.com | 0844 581 1345 Bookshop
Knife supplier
*Not valid on VIP Packages, Feast events, Gold Big Kitchen seats or with any other offer. Gold Big Kitchen seats cost an additional £3 and are subject to availability. Ends 25/10/17. £2.45 fulfilment fee per advance order. Calls cost 7p/minute plus phone company charges. Not all celebrities appear at all Shows or on all days. Details correct at time of print. The Good Food word mark and logo are trademarks of the BBC. ©BBC. Organised and presented by River Street Events.
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baking Vegan
swap-outs
W
hether it’s for ethical, health or financial reasons, more and more of us are choosing to add vegan recipes to our repertoires. Yet, while we may find it easy to create beautiful starters, mains and desserts without the use of animal products, achieving a great bake can seem difficult without eggs, milk or butter.
Going vegan doesn’t have to mean missing out on your favourites. All you need to do is make a few clever switches
However, with just a few simple swaps, it’s easy to carry on baking all of your favourites. Use the ideas below to get started, and when it comes to picking up your swap options, head to ocado.com You’ll find all the ingredients you need in the baking section, alongside a wide selection of traditional non-vegan options – everything you need to create the perfect bake.
For 1 egg, substitute: 2 tbsp cornflour and 2 tbsp water, or 2 tbsp Smash, or 1 tbsp ground flaxseed and 3 tbsp water, or 1 tbsp bicarbonate of soda and 2 tbsp warm water.
Replace with equal amounts.
For more inspiration, visit bbcgoodfood.com/inspiration Replace with equal amounts.
health
Stay active and healthy in the colder autumn months with our easy exercises and tips for maintaining a calcium-rich diet
illustration MACROVECTOR / ALAMY STOCK VECTOR | photographs INCAMERASTOCK / ALAMY STOCK PHOTO, GETTY, ISTOCK | *RESEARCH PUBLISHED IN THE CANADIAN MEDICAL ASSOCIATION JOURNAL: WWW.CMAJ.CA/CONTENT/189/28/E929
words SARAH LIENARD
Home s t u o k r wo
An apple a day More than just a crunchy, portable snack, apples are packed with nutrition, too
Rich in antioxidants Good source of fibre Vitamins A, C and K Low GI Discover more at bbcgoodfood.com/ health-benefits-apples
If the colder days and darker nights are discouraging you from getting active outdoors, try these three ways to exercise in your living room
• Start with a gentle warm up
that works the muscles you’re about to use. Perform exercises carefully and with control to avoid injury. • Make the most of ad breaks to perfect basic moves such as
squats, lunges, press-ups, mountain climbers and sit-ups. • Get creative with your ‘equipment’ – soup cans double up as light weights, a pair of tights can be used as a resistance band, and a non-slip chair is ideal for tricep dips. Try the NHS Strength & Flex podcast or our very own 10-minute workout for beginners – visit bbcgoodfood.com/exercisefor-free to find out more.
Artificial sweeteners Recent research* suggests that high intakes of sweeteners may increase the risk of conditions such as type 2 diabetes and stroke. Time to panic? Not necessarily. The research pooled data from various previous trials, making it harder to account for all the different factors that could influence results. While research is ongoing, focus on eating a balanced diet and staying active – both proven to help us stay healthy.
Stronger bones
World
Osteoporosis
Day
October 20
We’ve teamed up with the National Osteoporosis Society to explore calcium-rich foods. Mix and match from these to reach the daily 700mg that most adults need To get
300mg 200mg 100mg 50mg calcium calcium calcium calcium
Eat 30g parmesan
30g cheddar
105g can 70g red pink salmon kidney beans
or 40g Edam
or 200ml cow’s or soya milk
or or 2 dried figs 1 large orange
or 60g paneer cheese
or 120g tofu
or 1 tbsp sesame seeds
or 10 whole almonds
For more information, visit bbcgoodfood.com/best-sources-calcium
OCTOBER 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 95
Healthy slow cooker curries Make fragrant, nutritious curries the simple way. Stir the ingredients together, chill overnight and leave them to work their magic in the slow cooker! recipes SARA BUENFELD photographs MIKE ENGLISH
Slow cooker vegetable curry, p98 96 bbcgoodfood.com OCTOBER 2017
health
Slow cooker lamb curry Inspired by the lamb saag, this curry uses lean lamb steaks cut into chunks. We’ve swapped the spinach for more robust kale, slow-cooked to tender perfection, and added chickpeas, which count towards your five-a-day. IRON
VIT C
4 OF 5-A-DAY
SERVES 2 PREP 10 mins plus overnight chilling COOK 6 hrs EASY G
1 large onion, halved and sliced 3 tbsp Madras curry paste 400g can chopped tomatoes 2 tsp vegetable bouillon powder 25g red lentils 210g can chickpeas (don’t drain) 1 tbsp grated ginger 1 tsp cumin seeds 1 cinnamon stick 75g curly kale 2 lean lamb steaks, fat removed, diced (about 240g) cooked brown rice, to serve
1 Put all of the ingredients into the slow cooker pot with a third of a can of water and stir well. Cover with the lid and chill in the fridge overnight. 2 The next day, stir again, then cook on Low for 6 hrs until the lamb and vegetables are tender. Serve with brown rice. GOOD TO KNOW low fat • calcium • fibre • vit c • iron • 4 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 568 kcals • fat 19g • saturates 5g • carbs 49g • sugars 17g • fibre 13g • protein 43g • salt 1.3g
reader offer
Spiralize your way to 5-a-day
Transform vegetables and fruit into ‘spaghetti’, spirals or slices. The spiralizer includes three interchangeable blades – shredder, chipper or slicer. Exclusive price – just £12.99 (was £14.99) plus £3.95 p&p. To order, call 0844 493 5654 quoting 75613 or visit cliffordjames.co.uk/75613.
OCTOBER 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 97
health
Slow cooker vegetable curry This chunky vegetarian curry provides four of your five-a-day along with iron and fibre. The creamy coconut sauce packs a punch with spices, ginger and garlic. VIT C
FOLATE
4 OF 5-A-DAY
SERVES 2 PREP 10 mins plus overnight chilling COOK 6 hrs EASY V G
400ml can light coconut milk 3 tbsp mild curry paste 2 tsp vegetable bouillon powder 1 red chilli, deseeded and sliced 1 tbsp finely chopped ginger 3 garlic cloves, sliced 200g butternut squash (peeled weight), cut into chunks 1 red pepper, deseeded and sliced 1 small aubergine (about 250g), halved and thickly sliced 15g coriander, chopped 160g frozen peas, defrosted 1 lime, zested and juiced, to taste wholewheat flatbread, to serve
Budget-friendly chicken legs are ideal for slow cooking, becoming beautifully tender and succulent after six hours on low. For a quick accompaniment, serve with a pack of readycooked brown rice, which can be heated up in just a couple of minutes in the microwave. LOW CALORIE
HIGH FIBRE
3 OF 5-A-DAY
SERVES 2 PREP 10 mins plus overnight chilling COOK 6 hrs EASY G
1 large onion, roughly chopped 3 tbsp mild curry paste 400g can chopped tomatoes 2 tsp vegetable bouillon powder 1 tbsp finely chopped ginger 1 yellow pepper, deseeded and chopped 30g pack fresh coriander, leaves chopped 2 skinless chicken legs, fat removed cooked brown rice, to serve
1 Put all the ingredients except the coriander leaves and chicken into the slow cooker pot with a third of a can of water and stir well. Add the chicken and push it under all the other ingredients so that it is completely submerged. Cover with the lid and chill in the fridge overnight. 2 The next day, cook on Low for 6 hrs until the chicken and vegetables are really tender. Stir in the coriander leaves just before serving. GOOD TO KNOW low fat • low cal • fibre • vit c • iron • 3 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 345 kcals • fat 13g • saturates 2g • carbs 24g • sugars 20g • fibre 8g • protein 28g • salt 1.3g
tip
The easiest way to remove excess fat from chicken is to snip if off with a pair of sharp kitchen scissors.
98 bbcgoodfood.com OCTOBER 2017
GOOD TO KNOW folate • fibre • vit c • iron • 4 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 391 kcals • fat 22g • saturates 13g • carbs 30g • sugars 18g • fibre 14g • protein 11g • salt 1.1g
tip
You can swap the squash for sweet potatoes if you prefer as they will still count towards one of your five-a-day unlike white potatoes. For more healthy slow cooker recipes, visit bbcgoodfood. com/healthyslow-cooker
Style director SALLY WILLIAMS | stylist FAYE WEARS
Slow cooker chicken curry
1 Put all the ingredients except the coriander, peas and lime juice into the slow cooker pot and stir well. Cover with the lid and chill overnight. 2 The next day, cook on Low for 6 hrs until the vegetables are really tender, then stir in the coriander and peas. The heat of the curry should be enough to warm them through. Taste and add a good squeeze of lime juice if you fancy extra zing. Serve with a wholewheat flatbread.
Rick Stein in conversation The Road to Mexico Hosted by Barney Desmazery
J
This is a Penguin Live event in conjunction with BBC Good Food magazine
oin Rick in Bath as he discusses his latest cook book – and major new BBC2 TV series – The Road to Mexico which celebrates the fresh ingredients and high flavours of this vibrant region. From the incredible seafood of the North Pacific Coast, to the Mole of Oaxaca and the spices and salsas of Yucatan, Rick eats and experiences Mexican cooking at its very best and most diverse. Rick will share anecdotes of the food and people he encountered along the way, and bring his passion for good-quality local produce and delicious flavour combinations to the fore to provide you with an insight into the cuisine of these sunshine states. The evening will be hosted by Barney Desmazery of BBC Good Food magazine, there will be an opportunity for audience questions, and Rick will be on-hand to sign copies of his book after the event.
HOW TO BOOK DATE: Tuesday 7 November 2017 TIME: 7.30pm PLACE: The Ballroom, Bath Assembly Rooms TICKETS: £15 TO BOOK: Visit penguin.co.uk/live
Exclusive for subscribers
Turn to page 72 for your discount subscriber ticket offer, plus the chance to win The Road to Mexico and meet Rick at the show!
CREATE A FLORAL MASTERPIECE Transform a simple cake into a showstopper with a bouquet of floral decorations. You’ll be amazed how easy it is using our new Russian Nozzle Icing Set and Easy Flower Cutters. Visit our blog to find out more: blog.lakeland.co.uk/floral-cake
Shop online at lakeland.co.uk 68 stores nationwide
health
Make-ahead breakfast
healthy diet plan
This omega-rich and cholesterol-busting porridge can be prepared the night before, so there’s no excuse to skip breakfast recipe SARA BUENFELD photograph STUART OVENDEN
Oat & chia porridge with prunes FIBRE
2 OF 5-A-DAY
SERVES 2 PREP 10 mins NO COOK EASY V
6 prunes few pinches ground cinnamon 50g traditional oats 2 tbsp chia seeds ½ tsp vanilla extract 300ml bio yogurt milk, for diluting (optional) 2 small pears, cored and thickly sliced 2 tsp sunflower or pumpkin seeds (optional)
1 The night before, put the prunes in a small pan with the cinnamon. Cover scantily with water and bring to the boil, then simmer for 5 mins. Tip into a bowl and set aside to soak overnight. 2 Put a kettle full of water on to boil. Tip the oats and chia seeds into a bowl, pour over 300ml boiling water then stir well. Cover and leave to soak overnight too. 3 The next morning, stir the vanilla and half the yogurt into the oat mixture then dilute to the consistency you like best with a little milk or water if necessary. Spoon into bowls and top with the remaining yogurt, the prunes, pears and seeds, if using, then dust with a little more cinnamon, if you like. GOOD TO KNOW low fat • calcium • fibre • 2 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 359 kcals • fat 10g • saturates 3g • carbs 48g • sugars 30g • fibre 10g • protein 14g • salt 0.3g
To follow our healthy diet-plan, go to bbcgoodfood.com
OCTOBER 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 101
Take it up a
notch
With Go Cook, the new premium cookware brand from Tesco, you’ll be equipped with quality tools that can help you create great dishes and take your cooking to the next level s a keen cook, you know that when it comes to achieving brilliant results in the kitchen, using exceptional quality equipment is just as important as the calibre of the ingredients you use in your recipes. If anything, the right tools will inspire you to be more confident and adventurous. That’s where Tesco’s new premium cookware brand, Go Cook comes in. From pans with overmolded handles to Japanese folded steel blades, the careful design and engineered crafting of Go Cook’s products will help you to achieve your cooking ambitions. Whether you’re browning, baking, braising, or simply doing prep, the tools have been manufactured to
A
the highest standards, so you can do everything with precision – and love every single minute you’re doing it. Created in collaboration with industry experts, each item in the range comes with a quality guarantee and offers fantastic value for money. The thoughtful and rigorous design is intuitive to use and delivers outstanding end-to-end use for working life in the kitchen, along with great looks. Simple and stylish, you’ll be proud to have Go Cook cookware in your home. So go on, be brave. Try a new recipe that you’ll find a little challenging – like this crowd-pleasing torte – and discover the professional results you can obtain with Go Cook tools.
A piece of cake
The bakeware items in the Go Cook range – from loaf tins and round fluted cake tins to square brownie tins – have been built with the baker in mind, adding a new level of ease for even the most accomplished cooks. The result is seriously impressive bakes. The ingenious springform tin used in this torte recipe, for example, features a Contour Wave System with non-stick waves on the pan surface for enhanced cooking performance, ensuring an even bake. The loose base, double non-stick layers, easy-open catch and extra wide front edges for superior grip, also allow you to remove your bakes smoothly and efficiently, so they’ll come out looking as good as they taste. It’s no wonder this Go Cook tin comes with a reassuring 20-year quality guarantee.
Your key ingredient
The Go Cook springform loose-base tin, 23cm, £11
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Affogato meringue torte
SERVES 12 1 PREP 20 MINS PLUS FREEZING 1 COOK 1-6 MINS 1 A LITTLE EFFORT
250g digestive biscuits 60g unsalted butter, melted 800ml coffee ice cream For the sauce 3 tbsp espresso powder 2 tbsp cocoa powder ½ tsp vanilla extract 3 tbsp unrefined icing sugar For the meringue 3 medium egg whites 185g caster sugar
1 Crush the biscuits in a food processor, or put in a food bag and crush with a rolling pin until fine. Mix until well coated with the melted butter. 2 Transfer to a Go Cook 23cm springform loose-base tin, spreading to the edges to make an even layer. Leave in the freezer for 10 mins. 3 Tip the ice cream into a bowl and leave out for a few mins to soften enough to spread (but don’t let it melt). Press with a wooden spoon or spatula to flatten slightly in the bowl, then set in the middle of the tin and spread to make an even layer, leaving a 2 ½cm gap between the edge of the ice cream and the sides of the tin if toasting the meringue under the grill, or spread it all the way to the edges if using a cook’s blowtorch. Leave in the freezer until the ice cream is firm (around 3 hrs). 4 Meanwhile, make the sauce. Mix the espresso powder, cocoa powder, vanilla and icing sugar in a small saucepan with 150ml water. Whisk until smooth, bring to the boil, and reduce to a gentle simmer for 2 mins (it’s quite a runny sauce so won’t thicken much). Set aside to cool. 5 To make the meringue, whisk the egg whites with a free-standing or handheld electric mixer, on a low speed at first, then gradually increase to medium-high speed. Mix until soft peaks form (around 5 mins). 6 Add the sugar, 1 heaped tbsp at a time, mixing well after each addition. 7 Heat the grill to medium (if using). Remove the tin from the freezer, scrape in the meringue and spread to make an even layer with a few swirls and peaks on the surface. Lightly toast with a cook’s blowtorch or under the grill for around 2 mins. If you’re worried the ice cream might start to melt, put it back in the freezer for 20-30 mins at this stage. 8 Run a spatula around the inside edge to loosen the meringue free from the sides, then unclip the tin and remove the collar. Using the spatula, gently lever the base free from the tin (the colder it is the easier it will come free), then carefully set the torte onto a serving dish, and drizzle over a few tbsp of the coffee sauce. Slice straight away and serve the rest of the sauce in a jug. PER SERVING 355 kcals, fat 18.7g, saturates 10.9g, carbs 41.4g, sugars 32.9g, fibre 1.1g, protein 4.6g, salt 0.35g
Just like Grana Padano cheese, true taste and real origins simply cannot be imitated. That is why the European Union created the Protected Designation of Origin scheme. PDO makes regional specialities with centuries of tradition easier to recognise. So next ���� ��� ���� �� ����� ��� ������������ ϔ������ �� ����� ������ delicacies, look for the PDO logo. Proud carriers of the PDO logo.
Follow our tradition at www.granapadano.it
CAMPAIGN FINANCED WITH AID FROM THE EUROPEAN UNION AND ITALY.
weekend Try something new this weekend with recipes from top chefs, including a Catalan menu from José Pizarro and Tom Kerridge’s roast with a difference
Roast spiced duck with plums p107
José Pizzaro’s black pudding & apple croquetas, p126
Sharing plates from Magpie restaurant, p120
Diana Henry’s torrijas with sherry, p114
OCTOBER 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 105
TOM KERRIDGE’S
A month of
Sundays
BBC chef Tom Kerridge reinvents the classic roast dinner photographs PETER CASSIDY
A
Sunday roast is a British mealtime institution, it’s often the one time of the week we gather with friends and family to sit down and eat together. The concept might be traditional, but that doesn’t mean the meal itself needs to be. By trying new meats, seasonings or cooking everything
together in the same pan, you keep things interesting for both the cook and the diners. So, when you next go to cook a roast, don’t go into a kitchen autopilot – use it as an opportunity to cook something new and hopefully it will end up becoming another one of your Sunday favourites.
Good Food contributing editor Tom Kerridge is a regular BBC presenter and chef-owner of The Hand & Flowers and The Coach – both in Marlow, Buckinghamshire. His latest book, Tom Kerridge’s Dopamine Diet (£20, Absolute Press), is out now. @ChefTomKerridge
106 bbcgoodfood.com OCTOBER 2017
Malt glazed roast pork and crackling, p108
weekend
Roast spiced duck with plums This roast is the perfect balance of savoury, sweet and sour. SERVES 4 PREP 35 mins COOK 2 hrs 25 mins MORE EFFORT
1 star anise 2 tbsp coriander seeds 4 tbsp muscovado sugar 2.5kg whole duck 1 tsp olive oil 6 plums, halved and stoned 3 bay leaves 75ml red wine vinegar 300ml chicken stock
1 Heat oven to 160C/140C fan/gas 4. Toast the star anise and coriander seeds in a dry pan until aromatic. Tip the toasted spices into a spice grinder with 2 tsp sea salt and grind into a fine powder (or crush using a pestle and mortar). Put the spice salt in a bowl, add the sugar, mix well and set aside. 2 Lightly score the skin of the duck in a criss-cross pattern and heat the oil in a large casserole. Using a pair of tongs to turn it, brown the duck well on all sides, pour off the excess fat, then sit the duck breast-side up and season all over with the sugar and spice mix. Pack the plums around the outside, then scatter over the bay and pour over the vinegar and stock. Roast in the oven for 2 hrs or until the duck is golden and the plums have broken down. Turn the oven right up for 10 more mins to crisp up the skin. Take the duck out of the pan to rest for 10 mins and spoon the excess fat off the plums. Carve the duck and serve with a good spoonful of plums. PER SERVING 762 kcals • fat 59 • saturates 17g • carbs 22g • sugars 22g • fibre 4g • protein 33g • salt 2.9g
OCTOBER 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 107
Malt-glazed roast pork & crackling
I know it’s a little odd to remove the skin on roast pork, but this is how you get both a beautiful glaze and cracking crackling. SERVES 6 PREP 30 mins plus 1 hr chilling COOK 1 hr 30 mins MORE EFFORT
Roast salmon with rye & horseradish crumble & kale salsa verde This is a play on the classic combination of flavours that work so well in a salad or sandwich, it’s also so easy! SERVES 6-8 PREP 35 mins COOK 25 mins MORE EFFORT
1 white onion, peeled and sliced 200ml cider 1.2kg side of salmon, skin removed 1 bunch of kale, washed 3 garlic cloves, grated 1 lemon, zested and juice of half 120ml good olive oil 3 salted anchovies
crème fraîche, to serve for the crumble 250g crusty dark rye bread, crusts removed, dried and blended to a chunky crumb 2 tbsp dried onion flakes 2 tbsp chopped parsley 1 tbsp chopped dill 4 tbsp grated horseradish 75 butter, melted
1 Heat oven to 160C/140C fan/gas 4. To make the crumble, mix the crumbs, onion flakes, herbs, horseradish, 1 tsp salt and melted butter together, then set aside. Line a baking tray with baking parchment, scatter over the sliced onions and drizzle with cider. Sprinkle with a little salt and lay the salmon on top, skin-side up. Loosely pack over the crumble mix. Roast in the oven for 20 mins, or until just cooked through 2 While the fish is cooking, blanch the kale in boiling water for 2 mins, drain and refresh under cold water. Put the kale, garlic, lemon zest, oil and anchovies in a food processor and blend to a coarse salsa. Season to taste. 3 Once the fish is cooked, remove from the oven and leave to rest for 5 mins. Pull apart into large chunks and serve with onions, salsa and crème fraîche. GOOD TO KNOW vit c • omega 3 • 1 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING 683 kcals • fat 46g • saturates 11g • carbs 25g • sugars 5g • fibre 4g • protein 37g • salt 1.9g
108 bbcgoodfood.com OCTOBER 2017
next month
Tom’s relaxed Boxing Day lunch
& Tom will be at the BBC Good Food Show in Glasgow (20-22 Oct) turn to page 90 for details.
½ tsp dried thyme 50g honey 4 tbsp soy sauce 100ml good chicken stock 60g malt extract
1 Put the pork skin in a shallow bowl, add a pinch of salt and pour over the vinegar. Leave for 2 mins then place, skin-side up, on a wire rack set over a roasting tray. Set aside somewhere cool. 2 Mix the nutmeg and thyme with 1 tbsp sea salt. Score the fat on the pork loin, rub the nutmeg spice all over, then put in the fridge for 1 hr. Meanwhile, put the honey in a small saucepan, cook until it’s a dark caramel, then add the soy, stock and malt extract, bring back to the boil and simmer until reduced by about half. 3 Heat oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Remove the pork from the fridge, sit in a shallow roasting tray, brush with the warm glaze, then cook in the oven for 10 mins, glaze again and repeat the process four more times over the next hr. When the pork has 30 mins left, put the pork skin on a tray on the shelf above. After 1 hr, check the pork is cooked with a digital thermometer – it should be 68C or above. Remove from the oven, brush once more with the glaze and rest for about 20 mins while the pork skin crisps to crackling. Serve the pork on a large chopping board with the broken crackling. I serve this with roast potatoes and super-rich cauliflower cheese. PER SERVING 554 kcals • fat 41g • saturates 15g • carbs 15g • sugars 12g • fibre 0.4g • protein 31g • salt 4.4g
Shoot director CHEERY FERMOR | Food stylist JACK SARGESON | Stylist LUIS PERAL
1.6kg 6-bone rack of pork, skin removed, kept separate and scored 100ml white wine vinegar ½ tsp ground nutmeg
weekend
Roast venison loin with pumpkin & Sichuan salt
I love the turn of the seasons, as we move away from summer vegetables and lighter dishes over into more autumnal cooking, like this roast venison. SERVES 4 PREP 15 mins COOK 1 hr 10 mins EASY
1 small pumpkin or squash, peeled and seeds removed, then sliced into wedges 8 sage leaves 60ml maple syrup 3 banana shallots, peeled and sliced lengthways 40g butter 600g venison loin, fat and sinew removed for the Sichuan salt 10 Sichuan peppercorns 1 tbsp flaky salt 1 tsp chopped rosemary
1 Heat oven to 190C/170C fan/gas 5. Put the pumpkin, sage, maple syrup and shallots in a roasting tin and give it a good mix with your hands, making sure you coat everything in the syrup. Add half the butter and sprinkle with salt, then roast for 45 mins or until the pumpkin is tender. 2 While the vegetables are roasting, heat a frying pan, add a splash of oil and the remaining butter. When foaming. add the venison and sear as quickly as you can. Remove from the heat and set aside. Once the vegetables are soft, lay the loin on top and return the tin to the oven to cook for another 15-20 mins. 3 While the venison is roasting, put the pepper, salt and rosemary into a pestle and mortar and grind to a coarse seasoning. When the venison is cooked, remove from the oven and rest for 10 mins. While it’s resting, brush with the glaze from the pan and sprinkle over a generous pinch of the Szechuan seasoning. Serve the carved venison with the pumpkin and shallots. GOOD TO KNOW iron • 1 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING 367 kcals • fat 19g • saturates 12g • carbs 13g • sugars 11g • fibre 2g • protein 35g • salt 3.8g
OCTOBER 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 109
D I A N A H E N RY ’ S S TA R I N G R E D I E N T
Cooking with…
sherry
Bone-dry or raisin-sweet, sherry perks up many a dish and adds a seductive sweetness to others. Break out the bottles for these recipes recipes DIANA HENRY photographs PETER CASSIDY
I
t’s almost ridiculous to see sherry as a single ingredient. The cold, flinty, dry fino you knock back with shellfish is a world away from the sweet, raisiny, pedro ximénez (PX) someone offers you – if you’re lucky – with a slice of chocolate cake. Drinks writers have been predicting sherry’s rise for the last 40 years. When tapas bars started to open here in the mid 1980s, it looked as if we were going to seize sherry from our nans and make it the drink of our time but the enthusiasm just didn’t build enough momentum. It’s true that ‘foodies’ no longer see sherry just as something to slosh into a trifle, but we still don’t make enough of it. As soon as I discovered sherry at university, where I got into cold fino with green olives, I was hooked. It wasn’t until years later, when I was in Jerez eating a meal where each course was accompanied by a different sherry, that I began to see its potential as something to cook with. There was a dish of beef cheeks braised in oloroso that was a revelation – it had savoury depth but a hum of sweetness. You start to run out of vocabulary when you try to summon the essence of different sherries and the flavours they impart to the dishes in which they’re cooked. In fact, cooking with sherry often reminds me of cooking with dried chillies, in that they’re both about tone. With both you speak of raisins, nuts, wood and chocolate. However, fino and manzanilla-style sherries are spoken of in terms of their saline qualities. I always have a bottle of fino, a medium type (palo cortado or the richer oloroso) and a bottle of PX on
hand. The PX is a treat (an expensive one) but there is no better pairing for chocolate (it’s wonderful in chocolate ice cream). On those weekends when you cook a special dinner, but can’t manage to pull off dessert, a bottle of PX, served with good-quality dark chocolate, makes a grand finish. My bottles of sherry aren’t stashed away at the back of a cupboard. I reach for them often – the fino for cooking with clams or mussels, or in place of dry vermouth; the oloroso for braises where I want a background note of sweetness. I find oloroso the most useful, as it works well with mushrooms, all meats, chorizo and the Spanish black pudding, morcilla, apples, pears, stone fruits and in eggy puddings. It’s cream sherry – a blend of oloroso sweetened with PX that started out as an export-only product for the British market – that makes us think of sherry as a rather sickly drink. In days of yore, this was pulled out of the drinks cupboard on Boxing Day to make turkey à la king, a sherry-spiked béchamel which was a vehicle for all that leftover turkey we didn’t know what to do with. Thankfully, those days are long gone.
Good Food contributing editor Diana Henry is an award-winning food writer. Every month she creates exclusive recipes using seasonal ingredients. Her tenth book, Simple (£25, Mitchell Beazley), is out now. @DianaHenryFood
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weekend
Spanish lamb with sherry, honey & peppers, p112 OCTOBER 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 111
Spanish lamb with sherry, honey & peppers This is very moreish dish with its sweet-savoury flavours and lovely depth, thanks to the addition of sherry! If you’re not keen on saffron then leave it out; you will end up with quite a different dish, but a good one, nonetheless. SERVES 4-6 PREP 15 mins COOK 2 hrs 30mins A LITTLE EFFORT
1kg lamb shoulder, trimmed of excess fat, then cubed 1½ tbsp olive oil 1 large onion, roughly chopped 1 red pepper, halved, deseeded and sliced 1 yellow pepper, halved, deseeded and sliced 1 green pepper, halved, deseeded and sliced 2 garlic cloves, grated to a purée ½ tsp paprika 250ml medium sherry 250ml lamb stock generous pinch of saffron threads 1 tbsp sherry vinegar 1½ tbsp honey 1 tbsp finely chopped parsley, or chopped toasted blanched almonds cooked couscous, to serve
1 Make sure your lamb isn’t too damp – pat it dry with kitchen paper if you need to, otherwise it won’t colour well. Heat 1 tbsp olive oil in a large casserole dish and brown the lamb over a high heat in batches (if you crowd the pan the meat will sweat and not brown). Remove with a slotted spoon as you go. When all the lamb is browned, add the remaining oil and cook the onion and peppers over a medium heat until the onion is golden and the vegetables are softened. Add the garlic and paprika, and cook for a further 1 min, then add the sherry and bring to a simmer. 2 Put all the lamb back in the pan, along with the stock, saffron, sherry vinegar and honey. Season and bring to just under the boil. Turn the heat down, cover the pan and leave to cook very gently for 2 hrs, turning the meat every so often. 3 In the last half hour of cooking time, remove the lid so that the sherry and stock can reduce. You want to end up with completely tender meat in a flavoursome gravy – how long this takes will depend on how wide your pan is so you may need to give it longer than 30 mins. Check the seasoning. You’re unlikely to need to adjust the vinegar or honey but you might want to sweeten the dish slightly. Scatter the parsley or almonds on top (or use both). Serve with the couscous. GOOD TO KNOW vit c • 1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING (6) 507 kcals • fat 32g • saturates 14g • carbs 12g • sugars 11g • fibre 3g • protein 32g • salt 0.3
A lovely side dish for roast lamb (leave out the goat’s curd and it works well with pork and duck, too). Sherry is very good with both fennel and orange, and its sweetness is great against the tang of goat’s curd. If you can’t get curd, use a soft, creamy goat’s cheese. SERVES 4 as a side dish PREP 10 mins COOK 30 mins EASY
4 medium fennel bulbs 15g unsalted butter 1 tbsp extra virgin olive oil 200ml medium sherry 1 tsp fennel seeds, bruised in a pestle and mortar ½ orange, zested and juiced 3 tsp granulated sugar 100g goat’s curd 10g hazelnuts, toasted and coarsely chopped
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1 Trim the tips of the fennel bulbs, removing any little feathery fronds (keep these for later). Quarter the bulb lengthways and remove the coarse outer leaves, then cut each piece in half again lengthways. 2 Melt the butter in a large frying pan and add the olive oil. Cook the fennel wedges over a medium-high heat for 2 mins each side or until they’re golden – keep moving them around the pan so you get an even colouring. Add 125ml sherry and the fennel seeds, then lower the heat and cover the pan. Cook the fennel for about 7 mins, then add the orange juice and cook, uncovered, for a further 7 mins or until the fennel is tender but not collapsing (the wedges should keep their shape). Turn the heat up and cook until the juices have almost completely disappeared. 3 Add the sugar to the pan and cook for about 30 secs, turning the fennel wedges over, or until slightly caramelised. Add the orange zest along with the remaining sherry. Season and cook, turning the wedges, until the sherry has reduced and the wedges are coated and glossy, but not too dark. 4 Put the fennel on a serving plate and dot teaspoons of goat’s curd around it. Sprinkle with the hazelnuts and top with the reserved fennel fronds to serve. GOOD TO KNOW fibre • 1 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING 287 kcals • fat 16g • saturates 7g • carbs 12g • sugars 10g • fibre 8g • protein 9g • salt 0.4g
Shoot director CHERRY FERMOR | Food stylist JACK SARGESON | Stylist LUIS PERAL
Sherry & orange caramelised fennel with goat’s curd
weekend
OCTOBER 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 113
weekend
Torrijas with sherry Torrijas are basically Spanish ‘French toast’, or eggy bread in down-to-earth English. There are so many ways you can serve this – add ice cream and blackberries or caramelised apples and you have dessert. Drizzle with a little honey and add some yogurt and you have breakfast. SERVES 2-4 (depending on appetite) PREP 5 mins COOK 10 mins EASY
2 medium eggs, soft white plus 1 egg yolk bread or 2 tbsp double brioche cream olive oil, for 2 tbsp whole milk frying 3 tsp golden icing sugar, caster sugar for dusting 3 tbsp sweet crème fraîche or sherry Greek yogurt, 4 thick slices of to serve
1 In a wide, shallow bowl, beat the eggs with the cream, milk, golden caster sugar and sherry. Cut each slice of bread in two and dip them into the egg mix, turning to make sure they get a good coating on either side. Soak bread in egg mixture for 10 mins to absorb the liquid (carefully turn them over from time to time and make sure they don’t get too soggy). 2 Heat 1½ tbsp olive oil in a large frying pan and cook the bread for about 3 mins on each side until dark golden and crisp on the edge. Keep the slices warm in a low oven as you cook the rest. 3 Divide the torrijas between plates and dust with the icing sugar. Serve with crème fraîche or Greek yogurt on the side. PER SERVING (4) 484 kcals • fat 24g • saturates 12g • carbs 49g • sugars 21g • fibre 1g • protein 10g • salt 1.1g
For more of Diana’s star ingredient recipes, visit bbcgoodfood.com
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EATS OUT GOODY BAG worth £25 for every guest
Join us for an exclusive dinner at Launceston Place
Book now to attend this fabulous event in Kensington, London, on Tuesday 7 November 2017
W
e’ve teamed up with awardwinning chef Ben Murphy to plan an unforgettable evening at the recently refurbished Launceston Place in Kensington – and you’re invited. Ben, who is one of the UK’s most exciting new chefs, was appointed head chef in 2017. He has designed an exclusive four-course tasting menu for the event, showcasing his style of using simple, seasonal ingredients with maximum flavour through signature dishes such as carrot, lovage and caraway. Presentation is key, with dishes that are extremely attractive to the eye, with all the essential elements adding
Exclusive for
a distinct and bold taste. Wine will be selected by head sommelier Piotr Pietras. You’ll enjoy a glass of fizz on arrival, and Ben and Piotr will introduce the menu and its wine pairings. At the end of the evening, you’ll receive a goody bag to take home. DATE 7 November 2017 PLACE Launceston Place TIME 6.30-11pm PRICE £115 per person, £110 for magazine
subscribers (see below). Includes a glass of fizz on arrival, a four-course tasting menu, after-dinner coffee and a goody bag. TO BOOK Visit seetickets.com/go/ launcestonplace
SAMPLE
MENU
Carrot, lovage, caraway • Halibut, verjus, winter ‘veg’ • Presa Iberica, aubergine, ponzu • Chocolate, apple, cucumber subject to change
SUBSCRIBERS
subscriber Another great reason to subscribe to BBC Good Food magazine! Subscribers save £5, paying £110 per person. Turn to page 72 for your special subscriber code.
For more Eats Out events, visit bbcgoodfood.com/good-food-live-events
OCTOBER 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 115
Chinese MASTERCHEF MAKEOVER
beef hotpot This month, BBC MasterChef judge John Torode gives our warming Chinese stew a fresh new flavour
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photograph DAVID MUNNS
o nation has mastered the art of slow-cooking better than China. Simmered stews, traditionally cooked in clay pots, transform even tough and cheap cuts into something deliciously tender. To update the original Good Food recipe, I’ve added a few flavour boosters and aubergine, which takes on a new character when cooked like this. This is just the type of recipe to have bubbling away on a cold day.
Every month, chef and Good Food contributing editor John Torode reinvents a popular recipe from our website. John’s latest series on the Good Food channel, John Torode’s Asia, is on weekdays at 9pm for two weeks from Monday 30 October. @JohnTorode1
116 bbcgoodfood.com OCTOBER 2017
If you’ve cooked our Chinese-style braised beef one-pot (bbcgoodfood. com/recipe/braised-beef-onepot), why not try John’s version and let us know which you prefer? Drop us a line at
[email protected]
weekend
Chinese beef & aubergine hotpot SERVES 8 PREP 20 mins COOK 31/2 hrs MORE EFFORT
next month
John’s curry for a crowd
1 Heat oven to 150C/130C fan/gas 2. Heat a large casserole dish, toast the star anise and cinnamon until fragrant, then scoop out of the dish. Add the oil, then brown the beef in batches (be careful not to overcrowd the pan). Set the meat aside on a plate. 2 Add the rest of the ingredients except for the aubergine to the dish, stir well and bring to the boil. Add the spices and meat back in, skim off any fat that comes to the surface, then cover the casserole and cook in the oven for 2 hrs. 3 Remove the lid, add the aubergine, and give everything a good stir, then return to the oven and cook for 1 hr uncovered until the aubergine and meat are tender. Rest until cool enough to eat. Scatter over the coriander and sliced red chilli, then serve with rice. PER SERVING 389 kcals • fat 20g • saturates 7g • carbs 10g • sugars 8g • fibre 2g • protein 38g • salt 4.3g
OCTOBER 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 117
Shoot director ELIZABETH GALBRAITH | Food stylist JENNIFER JOYCE | Stylist VICTORIA ALLEN
5 star anise 1 cinnamon stick 3 tbsp sunflower oil 2kg braising steak (shin is best), cut into large chunks 1 litre chicken stock 3 red chillies, split in two and deseeded, plus extra sliced into rounds to serve 100g galangal (use ginger if you can’t find galangal), sliced 2 tbsp Thai fish sauce 200ml soy sauce 1 tbsp demerara sugar 6 kaffir lime leaves 3 aubergines, cut into wedges rice and coriander, to serve
Perfect foodie partners
for autumn
Whether it’s a refreshing white with fish or a warming red with a stew, this mixed case has all bases covered. Here, Henry Jeffreys highlights two wines from this month’s mixed case
Wine expert Henry Jeffreys, along with the BBC Good Food team, tasted his way through more than 100 wines to choose our Wine Club selection. Henry writes about wine for The Guardian and The Spectator, and on his blog, worldofbooze.wordpress.com. He is also a judge in the Best Drinks Producer category for the BBC Food and Farming Awards. His first book, Empire of Booze, is out now. Find Henry’s tasting notes, including food pairings, for all the selected wines at bbcgoodfood.com/ wine-club.
Steamed sea bass
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Le Mani di Federica Grillo 2016
The grape here is Grillo, which is used to make Sicily’s answer to sherry, marsala, but is now being made into some delicious table wines. The taste is so evocative of Sicily, lemons of course, but also orange blossom and an invigorating saline acidity. It’s particularly good with fish. Try it with the steamed sea bass on page 40.
Roast venison loin with pumpkin & shallots
Domaine Ginestières Merlot 2016
The Merlot grape originates in Bordeaux but it is right at home in the cooler parts of southern France, especially when the winemaker is Claude Gros, who makes some of the finest wine in St. Emilion. There’s quite a bit of plush tannin to go with the plummy fruit, so serve something meaty with it – the roast venison loin with pumpkin & shallots on page 109 would be perfect. QFor more details about this month’s cases, visit bbcgoodfoodwineclub.com.
Mixed case – save over £55
Mixed case – only £4.59 a bottle! Order this case for just £54.99 (saving over £55)
Everything in this mixed case is just a little bit out of the ordinary, such as the juicy Affogato from Puglia, a red that you could drink chilled on a mild day, and a Merlot that’s made in the Languedoc. Then there’s a sophisticated oak-aged Spaniard from a little-known region called Cariñena. In terms of white wine, it’s all about clean flavours with Le Citronnier from South West France, another citrussy wine, a Grillo from Sicily, and to round off, a real rarity, a Vermentino, one of Italy’s best white grapes, but from New South Wales.
To start your wine adventure
Simply choose an introductory case today. Red and white cases are also available – visit the website, below, for details. We’ll suggest new cases every 12 weeks. There’s zero obligation and we guarantee you’ll enjoy every bottle – or your money back!
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bottle of DINASTIA MANZANOS RIOJA and DARTINGTON DECANTER (together usually £51.99)
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To order, visit
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or call 03300 242 855 quoting code VVZ1A
BBC Good Food Wine Club wines are supplied and delivered by Laithwaite’s. Terms and conditions Introductory offer – new customers (18 years or over) only. One case per household. No further discounts applicable. Free delivery (usually £7.99). Offer ends 31/12/17. Delivery within three working days (except Northern Ireland and the Scottish Highlands). YOUR FUTURE CASES: Every four, eight or 12 weeks, you will be notified of the next wine plan selection, which you will automatically receive unless
you request otherwise. You will be charged the appropriate sum for each delivery. Unless otherwise stated, all wines contain sulphites. Visit bbcgoodfoodwineclub.com for full terms and conditions. Laithwaite’s Wine is part of Direct Wines Ltd. Registered in England and Wales. Registered Number 1095091. One Waterside Drive, Arlington Business Park, Theale, Berkshire RG7 4SW.
OCTOBER 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 119
MAGPIE E AT O U T O R E AT I N
Try out the new flavours of these clever recipes from this creative London restaurant, the last word in sharing plates
recipes ADOLFO DE CECCO words CHRISTINE HAYES photographs DAVID COTSWORTH
M
agpie will not be for everyone. An industrial-style fit-out, potent cocktails and central location (off Regent Street) make for a clattery, occasionally chaotic, atmosphere. Dishes are offered on a wooden trolley that snakes and judders its way through closely packed tables – fun for some, or a gimmick too far? There’s no arguing with the food though. Co-owners Sam Herlihy (below left) and James Ramsden have created an
120 bbcgoodfood.com OCTOBER 2017
intriguing menu of feel-good dishes with clever twists, such as coq au vin fried chicken and steak tartare with taleggio and truffle crisps. Many dishes feature ambitious ingredients such as kombu (seaweed), umeboshi (pickled plumbs), gjetost (cheese) – eating here is an education. We asked Magpie to create a simplified menu based on what’s served at the restaurant, adapted to be cooked at home. Trolley service optional. magpie.dinesuperb.com
weekend
Ouija board cocktail
Pour 25ml Lagavulin 16-year-old whisky, 25ml maraschino liquor, 25ml freshly squeezed lime juice, and 25ml chartreuse into a shaker over ice and shake hard for up to 10 seconds. Taste and finestrain into a chilled small coupette glass. Garnish with a slice of lime and maraschino cherry. MAKES 1 PREP 5 mins EASY
The serving trolley at Magpie
MENU Ouija board cocktail Japanese caesar salad Braised lamb neck, miso polenta & smoked almond pesto Carrot and beetroot dessert
OCTOBER 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 121
Japanese caesar salad SERVES 4 PREP 40 mins plus marinating overnight COOK 35 mins A CHALLENGE
for the Japanese caesar salad dressing 1 soft boiled egg 1 garlic clove, peeled and roughly chopped ½ tsp wasabi paste 1 tbsp miso 1 tbsp rice wine vinegar 50ml vegetable oil for the BBQ eel glaze 25ml dark soy sauce 25ml light soy sauce 25g caster sugar 25ml mirin 25ml sake 25ml rice vinegar
1 The day before, put the parmesan in a sandwich bag with the soy sauce and marinate in the fridge overnight. Remove and pat dry. 2 Next make the tempura nori. Heat a deep saucepan, 1/3 full of oil, to 190C or until a piece of bread browns in 20 seconds. Whisk the batter ingredients, except the nori. Tear each sheet of nori into four. Dip each piece into the batter then carefully drop into the oil and fry for 2-3 mins until crisp. Drain onto kitchen paper. 3 To make the caesar salad dressing blend everything except the oil with a splash of water until smooth. While the blender is running slowly pour in the oil until you have a thick and creamy dressing, chill in the fridge. This will keep for 2-3 days. 4 For the eel glaze put all the ingredients into the pan, bring to the boil and simmer for 3 mins until syrupy. Heat a frying pan until searing hot and cook the eel for 3 mins each side until caramelised. 5 To serve, put a dollop of dressing in the centre of a bowl, add half a baby gem and dress with a zig-zag of dressing. Toss the eel in the glaze and arrange on top with the shallots and parmesan shavings. Rest the tempura nori against the lettuce. GOOD TO KNOW calcium • folate • 1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 642 kcals • fat 35g • saturates 6g • carbs 58g • sugars 12g • fibre 5g • protein 19g • salt 5.9g
Braised lamb neck, miso polenta & smoked almond pesto SERVES 4 PREP 30 mins COOK 4 hrs 45 mins A CHALLENGE
600g lamb neck fillets splash of olive oil 100g Greek yogurt 1 tsp white wine vinegar 2 tbsp kombu flakes 1 litre lamb stock 200g Tenderstem broccoli for the smoked almond pesto 120g smoked almonds 1 small garlic clove
1 lemon, zested 20g parmesan, finely grated 100ml olive oil for the miso polenta 250g polenta 50g miso 750ml hot veg stock 50g butter 25g grated parmesan
1 Heat oven to 160C/140C fan/gas 3. Season the lamb then fry in a pan over a high heat for 5 mins with a splash of oil until browned on all sides. Put the lamb in a roasting tin and pour the fat from the pan into the Greek yogurt. Stir in the vinegar, season, and chill in the fridge until ready to serve. Roll the fillets in the kombu flakes to coat and pour over 500ml of lamb stock. Cover the tin with cling film, then cover with foil. Cook for 4 hrs, until the lamb is falling apart. 2 Meanwhile, reduce the remaining lamb stock for 20 mins until it becomes a thick and syrupy glaze, season then chill in the fridge. To make the pesto, blend the ingredients until smooth, chill in the fridge. When the lamb is tender, remove from the stock and once cool enough to handle, roll tightly in cling film and chill for an hour to firm up. 3 Heat a large pan of salted water. Once cook the Tenderstem for 1-2 mins until just tender then immediately transfer to a bowl of ice cold water. Once cold, drain, pat dry and set aside. 4 For the polenta, put the polenta, miso and veg stock together in a pan, bring to the boil and whisk to remove any lumps. Stir for 15-20 mins to stop it sticking until smooth. Finish by whisking in the butter and parmesan and season generously. Keep warm over a low heat. 5 When you are ready to serve, unwrap the lamb and slice into four pieces. Fry for 2 mins in a non-stick pan until lightly charred and heated through. Keep warm in a low oven, covered in foil. Fry the broccoli in the same pan used for the lamb until lightly charred. Warm the glaze until bubbling. Stir 1-2 tbsp water into the pesto. 6 To serve, spoon 1 tbsp pesto into the centre of each plate. Place a piece of lamb on top then put come polenta next to it. Lay the broccoli on the plate and add a spoonful of yogurt to the plate. GOOD TO KNOW fibre PER SERVING 800 kcals • fat 61g • saturates 24g • carbs 16g • sugars 4g • fibre 6g • protein 47g • salt 1.21g
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Shoot director CHERRY FERMOR | Supplementary photograph MILES WILLIS
2 Little Gem lettuces, trimmed and halved 1 x shallot, sliced into rings 4 20g fillets smoked eel for the soy parmesan 50g parmesan 50ml dark soy sauce for the tempura nori 500ml vegetable oil for frying 100g rice flour 100g plain flour 1 tsp baking powder 1 tsp salt 2 tbsp mixed sesame seeds 350ml sparkling water 3 sheets of nori
weekend
Carrot & beetroot dessert The strength of your carrot juice will determine how orange your meringue is – add a little food colour if you like SERVES 4 PREP 30 mins COOK 2 hrs 35 mins A CHALLENGE V
300ml double cream 500g pot cherry or other fruit sorbet edible flowers, to serve (optional) for the candied carrots 250g caster sugar 125ml carrot juice 1 large carrot, peeled and thinly sliced for the candied beetroot
250g caster sugar 125ml beetroot juice 5 peeled baby beetroot, cut into batons for the meringue 250ml carrot juice 3 large egg whites 175g caster sugar ½ tsp white wine vinegar 1 tsp cornflour
1 For the candied carrot, put the sugar and carrot juice in a pan with 125ml water. Bring to the boil then drop in the carrot slices and simmer for 10 mins until soft. Transfer with a slotted spoon to a baking tray and leave to dry. Repeat the process for the candied beetroot. These can be made in advance and kept in an airtight container. 2 Heat oven to 120C/100C Fan/gas 2, line two baking trays with baking parchment. Pour the carrot juice into a saucepan and cook for 15 mins until reduce to a syrupy glaze then cool in the fridge. For the meringue, whisk the egg whites with a stand mixer until they form stiff peaks, then whisk in the sugar 1 tbsp at a time until the meringue looks glossy. Whisk in the vinegar and the cornflour. Divide the meringue in half and fold the carrot juice through half the mixture. Spread the meringue onto the two baking trays to a 3mm thickness then cook for 1 hr 15 mins – 1 hr 30 mins until completely dry. Leave to cool completely then break into shards. These can be made in advance and kept in an airtight container. 3 To serve, whip the cream until soft peaks form and take the sorbet out of the freezer to soften slightly. Spoon a little whipped cream into the middle of each plate add a scoop of sorbet then scatter over the candied carrot, beetroot and a few shards of each meringue and edible flowers if using. GOOD TO KNOW folate PER SERVING 802 kcals • fat 41g • saturates 25g • carbs 101g • sugars 98g • fibre 4g • protein 5g • salt 0.4g
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S TA R C H E F S
Tastes of
Catalonia Enjoy an authentic Catalan experience in your own home with these recipes from Spanish chef José Pizarro’s new cookbook, Catalonia 124 bbcgoodfood.com OCTOBER 2017
weekend José Pizarro has been sharing the flavours of his homeland for more than 18 years, and is chef-owner of José Tapas Bar and Pizarro – both in Bermondsey, Broadgate Circle’s José Pizarro and Little José in Canary Wharf. @jose_pizarro
‘Catalonia is really beautiful. I have visited so many times over the years and one thing I know for sure is the more I go, the more I appreciate the place and the people. In their cooking, the people of Catalonia have never lost their culinary roots – sometimes aspects of recipes or methods stretch as far back as medieval times. In Catalan cuisine, there’s often a healthy nod to history, and this I really love. In the food, we see that the people are so proud of their heritage and cultural identity and love who they are and where they’re from.’
Pan-fried pork belly with courgette, fennel & preserved lemon salad Pork belly usually feels wintry, but I think this makes for a refreshing dish at any time of the year, especially if you add preserved lemons to help cut through the fat. SERVES 6 PREP 15 mins COOK 1 hr MORE EFFORT
1kg boneless pork belly, rind removed and fat scored olive oil, for frying 2 garlic cloves, lightly crushed few lemon thyme sprigs 1 tsp fennel seeds 750ml chicken stock 3-4 courgettes, cut into ribbons using a vegetable peeler 1 large fennel bulb, thinly sliced 2 preserved lemons (see recipe, below), finely chopped extra virgin olive oil, to drizzle
1 Season the pork all over and cut into six pieces. Heat a layer of olive oil in a deep frying pan and brown the pork all over. Add the garlic, lemon thyme and fennel seeds. Cook for 1 min, then add the stock. Bring to the boil, then gently simmer for 45 mins. 2 Toss the courgette, fennel and preserved lemon in a bowl. Drizzle with extra virgin olive oil and season. 3 Divide the pork between plates and serve with the salad. PER SERVING 361 kcals • fat 23g • saturates 8g • carbs 3g • sugars 3g • fibre 4g • protein 33g • salt 1.7g
Preserved lemons PREP 15 mins plus 2 hrs marinating NO COOK EASY V
Pare 2 lemons and put the zest in a sterilised jar. Remove the pith from the lemons, then cut the flesh into wedges and add to the jar. Pour in 3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil and add 3 tbsp caster sugar, 2 tbsp flaky sea salt, 1 tsp whole black peppercorns, 1 whole red chilli and 2-3 lemon verbena or lemon thyme sprigs. Shake gently to dissolve the sugar, then seal and set aside for at least a couple of hrs or for up to one week.
Bacallà a la llauna, spinach & piquillo peppers People use salted cod in Catalonia, but we use fresh cod and cure it ourselves with sea salt. Don’t use table salt as it has additives and a different flavour. SERVES 6 PREP 15 mins plus curing COOK 25 mins MORE EFFORT
1.2kg thick cod loin, skin left on 750g coarse sea salt 2-3 tbsp plain flour 250ml light olive oil 4 garlic cloves, finely sliced 2 tsp pimentón (paprika) 50ml sherry vinegar
3 piquillo peppers (from a jar), drained, deseeded, opened and halved 1 tbsp olive oil 120g raisins 3 tbsp pine nuts 500g baby spinach leaves
1 Put the fish in a plastic container, cover with the salt and set aside for 20-30 mins. Rinse with cold water and dry well. Cut into six pieces and dust all over with flour. 2 Heat oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4. Heat the light olive oil in an ovenproof pan – not too hot – and add the fish. Cook on the hob for 5 mins, turning halfway through, until lightly golden. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on kitchen paper. 3 Add the garlic and fry gently for 1 min. Add the pimentón and vinegar. Return the fish to the pan and lay the peppers on top. Bake in the oven for 5-6 mins. 4 Meanwhile, heat the olive oil in a pan and fry the raisins and pine nuts until the nuts are starting to turn golden. Add the spinach and sauté until just starting to wilt. Divide between six plates, then top with the fish and pan juices. GOOD TO KNOW folate • vit c • 2 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 704 kcals • fat 51g • saturates 6g • carbs 20g • sugars 15g • fibre 3g • protein 40g • salt 1.8g
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weekend
Black pudding & apple croquetas
Almost everyone loves jamón croquetas, and they’re one of the biggest sellers in my restaurants. But we also like to play around with new flavours too – sometimes they’re a bit crazy, but they normally work. If you’re a fan of mint, add a few leaves at the same time as the apple and morcilla (Spanish black pudding), and you’ll have a really lovely fresh flavour. MAKES 16-20 PREP 35 mins COOK 35 mins MORE EFFORT
500ml whole milk 150ml vegetable stock 85g butter, plus an extra knob 120g plain flour 75g Manchego cheese, grated olive oil 150g morcilla (black pudding), chopped 1 apple, peeled, cored and finely chopped pinch of caster sugar 2 large eggs, beaten 150g dry breadcrumbs sunflower oil, for deep frying
1 Heat the milk and stock together in a saucepan. In another saucepan, melt the butter over a medium heat, add the flour and cook for 2-3 mins until browned. Gradually whisk the milk and stock into the butter mixture until you have a thick, smooth béchamel. Season and add the cheese. Stir until melted and smooth. 2 Meanwhile, heat a little olive oil in a pan and fry the morcilla until starting to crisp, then drain on kitchen paper. Add a knob of butter to the pan and, when foaming, add the apple and sugar. Cook for 2-3 mins until lightly caramelised. Fold the morcilla and apple into the béchamel. 3 Spread the mixture out evenly in a shallow tray and press down. Cover with a sheet of baking parchment or cling film. Chill in the fridge for at least 2 hrs – the mixture needs to be stiff to form croquetas. 4 Put some oil in the palm of your hand and roll the mixture into balls weighing around 30g each. Put the eggs and breadcrumbs in two separate bowls. Dip the croquetas first in egg, then roll in the breadcrumbs to coat. 5 Heat the sunflower oil to 190C in a deep saucepan or deep-fat fryer (or until a cube of bread browns in about 20 secs). Fry the croquetas for 2 mins or until golden, then drain on kitchen paper. Devour immediately. PER SERVING (20) 181 kcals • fat 12g • saturates 5g • carbs 13g • sugars 2g • fibre none • protein 5g • salt 0.5g
126 bbcgoodfood.com OCTOBER 2017
Recipes taken from Catalonia: Recipes from Barcelona and Beyond by José Pizarro (£25, Hardie Grant,) Photography © Laura Edwards
& José is a regular guest on BBC One’s Saturday Kitchen
Exciting tours of Japan and Spain
reader
offer
All bookings will receive two free tickets to a BBC Good Food Show*
Glorious Mount Fuji
Japan – Land of the Rising Sun
13 days from only £3,449pp Selected departures from March to November 2018 Japan – an ancient culture of emperors, fierce shoguns, samurais and martial arts. Yet it’s also a place of geishas, kimonos, exquisite garden design and Zen Buddhism. Having travelled there, you’ll feel almost hypnotically drawn back to this enigmatic country. Fully escorted price includes z Return flights from the UK with premium economy upgrades available at a supplement. z Hand-picked four-star accommodation, including all local taxes, with breakfast and three meals included. z See the famous sights of Tokyo. z Cruise down the Arakawa River to Ginza. z Visit Asakusa Temple and Hamarikyu Gardens, plus enjoy private access to the Imperial Palace Gardens. z Enjoy views of Mount Fuji from Lake Kawaguchi. z Travel at 189mph on the high-speed bullet trains. z Reflect on the horrors of war at Hiroshima’s Peace Park. z Panoramic guided tour of Kyoto. z Guided tour of Nara, plus visit Nara Park. z Services of our experienced tour manager. Visit gdfriviera.co.uk to view a video of the trip.
TERMS AND CONDITIONS *Standard tickets for the BBC Good Food Show to be dispatched upon holiday departure. Holidays organised by and subject to the booking conditions of Riviera Travel, New Manor, 328 Wetmore Road, Burton upon Trent, Staffs DE14 1SP and are offered subject to availability. ABTA V4744 ATOL 3430 protected. Per person prices based on two sharing a twin room. Single rooms and optional insurance
Plaza de España, Seville
Classical Spain – Seville, Cordoba & Granada Seven days from only £599pp Selected departures up to November 2017 & March to November 2018
Andalucía is one of the most beautiful corners of Europe, where the excesses of modern life do not seem to have taken root and travellers are welcomed as honoured guests. Immortalised by the writings of Ernest Hemingway and beloved by Orson Welles, it is the Spain of Carmen, Figaro and flamenco. Rich with the legacies of the Moors and Romans, its charm and serenity will captivate you. Fully escorted price includes z Six nights in three-star superior and four-star accommodation including all local taxes, with breakfast. z Return travel from a selection of regional airports, plus transfers to and from your hotel included. z Visit to beautiful medieval Ronda. z Guided tour of Granada’s Alhambra, one of Europe’s most romantic palaces and fortresses – entrance included. z Visit to Cordoba with a guided tour of the Mezquita mosque – entrance included. z Services of our experienced tour manager. z New: In Seville, sample traditional tapas. Visit gdfriviera.co.uk to view a video of the trip.
available at a supplement. Additional entrance costs may apply. Image used in conjunction with Riviera Travel. DATA PROTECTION BBC Worldwide Limited and Immediate Media Company Limited (publishers of BBC Good Food) would love to keep you informed of their special offers and promotions. Please state at time of booking/ enquiring if you do not wish to receive these from BBC Worldwide or Immediate Media Company.
To request a brochure, call 01283 742398 To book, visit gfdriviera.co.uk OCTOBER 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 127
Quality cookware offer reader
Save on this stylish eight-piece cast iron set
JUST
£184.99 (was £189.99) plus p&p*
Made from high-quality cast iron, this eight-piece set is ideal for winter stews, casseroles, rice dishes, pot roasts and soups. Cast iron cookware distributes heat evenly without hotspots giving you great results. Suitable for use on all hobs, as well as in the oven (but not in the microwave). This set includes:
• Medium (20cm) casserole dish • Large (25.5m) casserole dish • Roasting dish (23.5cm) • Frying pan (24cm) • Griddle pan (24.5cm)
• Three saucepans – small (14.5cm) medium (17cm) and large (18cm) Please note: Induction hobs are equipped with intelligent magnetic field sensors that recognise whether the pan is suitable for the hob. Please check your hobs’ manual to ensure that these pans are the correct size. Available in: • D9583 Black • D9585 Orange • D9586 Blue • D9587 Cream
To order, call 0844 493 5654** quoting 75304
or visit clifford-james.co.uk/75304 or send your contact details, address and the codes and quantities of the item(s) you wish to order, along with a cheque payable to BVG Group, to: Good Food Offer 75304, PO Box 87, Brecon LD3 3BE
EXCLUSIVE FOR READERS
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TERMS AND CONDITIONS *Please note that due to the weight of this product, delivery will take between five and seven days and is charged at £9.95. Due to courier limitations, we are unable to deliver this product outside mainland UK, to Scottish Highlands, Isles or BFPO addresses. **Calls cost 7p per minute plus your phone company’s access charge. If not completely satisfied with your order, please return goods in mint condition and sealed original packaging for a refund within 30 days of receiving your order. Return postage costs will not be refunded unless the item was faulty. Your contract for supply of goods is with BVG Group. A signature is required on delivery. DATA PROTECTION BBC Worldwide Limited and Immediate Media Company Limited (publishers of BBC Good Food) would love to keep you informed by post, telephone or email of its special offers and promotions. Please state at time of ordering if you do not wish to receive these from BBC Worldwide or Immediate Media Company.
To order, call 0844 493 5654** quoting 75304 or visit clifford-james.co.uk/75304 128 bbcgoodfood.com OCTOBER 2017
club
test kitchen Expert advice from Barney Desmazery to help you become a better cook
Ingredients in-depth Dried mushrooms
Should steak be cooked at room temp?
For a big hit of autumnal flavour from your storecupboard, you can’t beat dried mushrooms. Rehydrate them in just-boiled water and you get the added bonus of a mushroom stock that can also be used. There can be some gritty sediment left in the stock, so leave that to settle in the bottom of the soaking bowl. Morels These standout honeycomb-capped fungi should be left whole or simply halved. They work well with chicken, pork or fish or in a cream sauce. Find our recipe for chicken and morel pie at bbcgoodfood.com. Porcini Also known as dried ceps, they make a great flavourpacked base to vegetarian gravy, or use them to boost the flavour of a mushroom soup or risotto. They also pair well with meat and game. Shiitake Used mostly in Asian cooking, these slippery broadcapped mushrooms add a deep savoury umami flavour to broths and braises, or they can be sliced and used in stir-fries.
Having cooked hundreds of steaks in the test kitchen, we can firmly debunk this kitchen myth. Firstly, bringing a thick steak out the fridge an hour before cooking makes very little difference to the internal temperature of the meat and when you cook two steaks (one fridge-cold and one left at room temperature for an hour) there is no noticeable difference on eating. If you want a simple way to up your steak game, try seasoning it 30 mins before cooking.
IN THIS MONTH’S TEST KITCHEN
3 DEGREES TO
Cooking onions
The ultimate fish pie Essential kit for home brewing
Until soft Sometimes confusingly written as 'until translucent', these should be soft enough to squeeze with your fingers (will take about 5-8 mins).
Starting to brown Give the onions 10-15 mins and they turn golden and start to caramelise. This adds an extra dimension of flavour to your soup or tomato-based sauces.
Browned Be patient, this can take up to 30 mins of gentle cooking to get the natural sugars to caramelise and brown. This is what you want for gravies, stews or braises.
On test kitchen scissors Kitchen tips and tricks OCTOBER 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 129
TOP WATCH
TEST KITCHEN
The mash topping, four ways
THE ULTIMATE
FISH PIE
For a smarter scalloped topping, go the extra step of piping blobs of mash over the pie and dotting with butter.
SERVES 6 PREP 40 mins COOK 1 hr A LITTLE EFFORT
photographs PETER CASSIDY
What: Fish pie is a national treasure of a dish. Large chunks of fish in a creamy white sauce with a hint of smokiness, all topped with golden buttery mash. However, the fish is normally way overcooked, something we set out to fix. How: We’ve cut out the pre-poaching of the fish to keep it tender, and upped the seafood flavour by making a stock base from the heads and shells of the prawns. We’ve also come up with some great options for toppings.
TWEETIE PIE Which is your favourite way of topping a pie? Tweet us @bbcgoodfood
FROZEN ASSETS Without the eggs, fish pie freezes beautifully. Eggs don’t freeze well and turn rubbery when defrosted. To cook, defrost completely and cook as stated.
You will need 150g butter 1 shallot, finely chopped 400g shell-on raw prawns, peeled, heads and shells kept (see prawn stock tip, right) 400g smoked haddock, skinned and trimmed (reserve these), flesh diced into large chunks 1 bay leaf 1 star anise small splash pernod (optional) 150ml white wine 1.2 litres whole milk 1 tsp vegetable bouillon powder or 1 vegetable stock cube
60g plain flour 200ml low fat crème fraîche 400g skinless white fish fillet, diced into large chunks 200g salmon fillet, diced into large chunks 2 tbsp capers, drained and finely chopped 1 lemon, juiced 1.5kg King Edward potatoes 4 eggs (optional) gruyère or medium cheddar 40g pack ready salted crisps spinach, peas or watercress, to serve
130 bbcgoodfood.com OCTOBER 2017
For an easy, cheesy finish, simply scatter with grated gruyère or a medium cheddar which bubbles and browns as it cooks.
test kitchen
How to make it
For an extra layer of texture, crushed up crisps sprinkled over add crunch.
We’ve gone with a selection of smoked haddock for flavour, fresh white fish for chunkiness, salmon to add colour and prawns for a touch of luxury. The fish is added raw to a thick sauce so its cooking juices thin out and flavour the sauce.
EGGS The great divider – they can be easily left out if you don’t like them. For egg fans, we’ve cut down on the pans by cooking them in with the potatoes for 8 mins so they are just cooked.
CRÈME FRAÎCHE We’ve used crème fraiche to add richness to the sauce with a touch of acidity, but we’ve gone for a lower fat option as the flour in the base means it won’t split.
ANISE It's the aniseed taste in fennel that makes it so good with fish. So, adding aniseed flavour to the pie in other forms such as pernod and star anise also works brilliantly.
1 Heat 25g of the butter in a shallow pan and sizzle the shallot for 2 mins. Add the prawn heads, shells and smoked haddock skin and trimmings, turn up the heat and cook for 5 mins until they start to brown. Throw in the bay and star anise, then splash in the pernod if using and then the wine. Boil everything down until practically evaporated, then pour over the milk and sprinkle in the vegetable bouillon. Simmer everything for 15 mins, turn off the heat, crush the shells with a potato masher and strain into a jug. 2 Clean out the pan and melt 60g of butter, stir in the flour so you have a sandy paste and cook for 2 mins on a low heat. Gradually stir in the flavoured milk, then the crème fraîche, and simmer gently to make a very thick sauce. Season to taste. Turn off the heat and gently fold through all the fish and prawns, capers and lemon juice. Scrape into a large buttered baking dish. 3 Heat oven to 220C/200C fan/gas 8. Bring the potatoes to the boil in a large pan of water, add the eggs and simmer for 8 mins. Scoop out the eggs, put in a bowl of cold water to cool, then peel, halve and push into the sauce. Drain the potatoes and mash with the remaining milk and butter. Spread or pipe the mash over the pie. Sprinkle with gruyère and/or crush over crisps. Put the pie on a baking tray and cook for 35 mins until golden and just bubbling over. Leave to sit for at least 10 mins before eating with buttered spinach, peas or watercress. GOOD TO KNOW calcium PER SERVING 629 kcals • fat 29g • saturates 17g • carbs 46g • sugars 10g • fibre 4g • protein 39g • salt 1.9g
SAYS RELAX For a rustic, homely finish, drag a fork along the mash and dot with butter. The ridges will brown and become crispy.
PRAWN STOCK
CAPERS
There is so much flavour in prawn heads and shells it seems silly not to use them. This base for the sauce takes the fish pie to the next level.
Chopped capers help season the sauce and give a nod to the classic tartare sauce served with fish.
There is nothing to be achieved, other than scorching your mouth, by eating the pie straight from the oven. Leave the pie to cool and settle for at least 10 mins before serving – even after 20 mins it will still be piping hot.
OCTOBER 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 131
Food stylist ELENA SILCOCK | Stylist JENNY IGGLEDEN
THE FISH
ESSENTIAL KIT
HOW TO EAT SMALL BIRDS
HOME BREWING
| Poussin, quail, partridge or pigeon – wrestling with a small bird can see it flying off your plate and into someone else’s. Here’s how to tackle it with grace.
Brewer and beer consultant Richard Davie on what you need to start making your own beer
1
4
BUY YOURSELF A DECENT KIT
LOOK AFTER YOUR INGREDIENTS
Extract kits have come a long way from the dusty back shelves of Boots of yesteryear, and give you a simple, affordable way to try out the hobby with very acceptable results. Established breweries like St. Peters and Woodfordes have decent kits in shops and online at about £20. wilko.com • brewuk.co.uk
Invest in some airtight plastic containers. Malt, kept dry and cool, should be fine for six months, but get rid of it after that – you’re only going to get stale flavours if you use stale malt. Likewise, dried yeast will keep, if sealed and chilled, but it will lose potency and reliability. Hops do not improve for age. Be doubtful of any before last year’s harvest, however cheap.
Whether it's your first time with a kit, or your hundredth all-grain brew, you need to ferment it in something suitable. Most of the time your options are between a bucket and a carboy. Carboys or demijohns look nicer, especially if they're glass, but can be a pain to clean. Food-grade plastic buckets lack glamour, but are practical – just make sure you get one with a close-fitting lid that's suitable for an airlock. As with most things there are more expensive options, but while they're good, they're not necessary. brewstore.co.uk • themaltmiller.co.uk 3 CLEAN EVERYTHING
If you’re making beer, then you need to be rigorous about cleanliness during the brew. VWP is an absolutely no-nonsense cleaner and steriliser for getting everything ready beforehand. During the brew, a no-rinse sanitiser is invaluable. Between the two, spoilt and infected beer shouldn’t be a problem. brewstore.co.uk • themaltmiller.co.uk 132 bbcgoodfood.com OCTOBER 2017
2 Cut away each leg quarter where the leg meets the body.
THE INTERNET IS YOUR FRIEND
While a good book is an invaluable reference, there will be a time you come across something that flummoxes you. It's very unlikely you will be the first, and just as unlikely someone else hasn’t discussed it. From the magisterial, if dense, How To Brew by John Palmer to the uncountable forums discussing minutiae, there’ll be something to help. howtobrew.com • brewersfriend.com
3 For easy eating, the legs can each be cut in two to separate the drumsticks from the thighs.
RICHARD DAVIE Richard Davie is a professional brewer with roots in home-brewing. When he's not making his own beer, he works at award-winning micropub The Beer Shop thebeershoplondon.co.uk. His latest project is consulting with Nick Jones (Wines of Momentary Destination) and Michaela White (Alphabeta Brewery) on the house beers for new London restaurant Flavour Bastard.
4 Working from the breastbone downwards, carve off slices of breast. Once you have most of the meat off with your knife and fork, it’s not unacceptable to pick up the carcass with your fingers to get at every last morsel.
ISTOCK, EMMA BOYNS, KEITH JAMES | On Test ANNA LAWSON
BUCKET OR DEMIJOHN
5
Portrait photograph MYLES NEW | Illustrations GEORGE BLETSIS | Photographs GETTY IMAGES,
2
1 Stick your fork into the breast meat to hold the bird steady.
test kitchen
KITCHEN SCISSORS
ON TEST
WHY BUY?
|
We rate the latest kitchen kit each month – find more reviews at bbcgoodfood.com
Kitchen scissors are a versatile kitchen accessory that can be used for anything from jointing poultry and game birds to snipping herbs. We found our best buys, scoring for comfort and ability to cut through packaging, chicken joints and other ingredients.
Once you start using kitchen scissors you’ll wonder how you coped without them. Not only are they useful for opening packaging, they're a great way to cut certain ingredients without the need for a chopping board and knife (great when cooking with kids). They're useful for snipping herbs, and cutting through bacon and pizza.
SIZE AND COMFORT The handles should be big enough for everyone in the household's hands, and comfortable enough that prolonged use won't rub and lead to calluses.
1 BEST ALL-ROUND KITCHEN SCISSORS – STAR BUY
1
OXO Good Grips kitchen and herb scissors
Price: £16 Best bits: Sharp blades and a herb stripper for removing herbs from their stems. Comments: These scissors have a comfortable moulded grip with cushioned pads to absorb pressure – over time, an uncomfortable pair of scissors can cause calluses. The scissors had really sharp blades that made light work of bones, herbs and packaging, and we found them to be the best all-round performer. Buy from OXO. oxouk.com BEST FOR SMALL HANDS
2
Fiskars classic kitchen scissors
Price: £9.99 Best bits: Sharp blades and good precision.
2
3
Comments: A more classic scissor shape, these have a smaller hole for the thumb than the fingers, meaning better control over cutting. The sharp blades glided through all ingredients and plastic packaging with ease, but their small size means these won’t be suitable for everyone. Buy from John Lewis. johnlewis.com
LOOSENESS It’s important that the scissors aren’t stiff to open and close.
SHARPNESS Kitchen scissors should be sharp enough to cut through both soft and hard ingredients with relative ease.
BEST BUDGET BUY
3
Wilko kitchen shears
Price: £2 Best bits: Incredibly cheap and cuts through herbs and packaging well. Comments: Although not the comfiest pair we tested, you can’t argue with the fact that these are a real bargain for what they can do. They handled hard plastic packaging, bacon, herbs and pizza well, but struggled with bones. Their large size means they're suitable for all hand sizes. Buy from Wilko. wilko.com
HOW WE TESTED THEM
| We chose five products most likely to be cut with kitchen scissors: packaging, chicken pieces, herbs, pizza and bacon, to see how each pair fared. We looked at how comfortable the scissors felt in smaller and larger hands, and how easily manipulable they were – those that were too stiff to manoeuvre were discounted.
OCTOBER 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 133
Christmas offer shopping trips reader
Get a head start on your shopping with these festive mini breaks
Weekend shopping break in London
Bruges Christmas markets
If you’re a shopaholic, you’ll love this two-night stay at the threestar Thistle City Barbican hotel. Situated on the edge of the historic Square Mile, near both the Tate Modern and the Tower of London, it offers easy access to all major shopping destinations. You’ll also receive a bottle of prosecco upon arrival, a three-course meal at Zizzi and a £50 gift card for Westfield Stratford City Shopping Centre*.
Take a trip to Bruges by Eurostar to experience this beautiful city’s famous Christmas markets. Browse tables laden with elegantly packaged chocolates, brightly coloured sweets and unusual handmade decorations and handicrafts, then enjoy the festive atmosphere over a warming mulled wine or hot chocolate.
from £199pp Available on selected Friday & Saturday arrivals until 23 Dec 2017
Includes: z Two nights’ accommodation at the three-star Thistle City Barbican hotel (Friday and Saturday arrivals only) z Breakfast on both mornings of stay z Bottle of prosecco in your hotel room upon arrival z Three-course meal at Zizzi z £50 gift card for Westfield Stratford City Shopping Centre* z Free river cruise on the Thames You can also add train travel from your local station to London.
EXCLUSIVE FOR READERS & SUBSCRIBERS Each booking includes a free river cruise on the Thames TERMS AND CONDITIONS Breaks operated by Super Break, ABTA No Y1453. Prices may vary and are subject to availability. Super Break booking conditions apply; please ask reservations for details. Stated dates may be subject to change and should be checked before travel. Prices correct as of 7/8/17 and based on two people sharing on the stated departure dates. Calls charged at a standard local rate (lines open daily 8am-10pm).
by Eurostar, from £299pp From 25 Nov 2017 to 1 Jan 2018
Includes: z Three nights’ accommodation at the four-star Rosenburg Hotel including breakfast (other hotels also available). z Return Eurostar travel departing from London St Pancras. z Book a three-night trip travelling between 25 November 2017 and 1 January 2018 and receive free entry to Choco-Story, The Chocolate Museum**. This Christmas market sells out fast, so book now to avoid disappointment.
EXCLUSIVE FOR READERS & SUBSCRIBERS Each booking includes free entry to Choco-Story and The Chocolate Museum** *£50 voucher per room, not per person. **Choco-Story, The Chocolate Museum is closed 24, 25 and 31 December 2017, and 1 January 2018. DATA PROTECTION BBC Worldwide Limited and Immediate Media Company Limited (publishers of BBC Good Food) would love to keep you informed by post, telephone or email of its special offers and promotions. Please state at time of ordering if you do not wish to receive these offers.
For more information or to book, call 01904 420489 and quote HB734, or visit superbreak.com/goodfood 134 bbcgoodfood.com OCTOBER 2017
eat like a local Insider YORK p138
Experience the vibrant food scene of the Shambles Market Food Court and indulge in a spot of fine dining at Arras
Six quick trips p140
Half-term hideaways the whole family can enjoy for the best foodie breaks around the UK
Sonoma County Marina O’Loughlin eats…
Napa Valley’s enchanting neighbour with indie restaurants and boutique wineries is the place for true foodies
OCTOBER 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 135
E
CRAFT BOOZE BOOM TIME
You could spend weeks exploring Sonoma’s many wine trails but where’s the fun in wine-tasting when you’re driving? Instead, we visit wine entrepreneur Jamie Kutch (kutchwines. com) in his vast warehouse. His pinot noirs, still juiced by foot, collect rave reviews, and there’s a Santa Cruz Mountain chardonnay that’s up there with the big names from Burgundy. It’s boom time for craft booze, with a mushrooming of distilleries. We wallow in some superb gins from Sebastopol’s Spirit Works (spiritworksdistillery.com), run by husband and wife, British-born Timo and Californian Ashby Marshall. The combination of classic British gin with sunny Cali exuberance is heady stuff – aromatics include orange and lemon, hibiscus and cardamom. They make whisky and vodka too, even sloe gin. The Barlow (thebarlow.net), the complex that contains Spirit Works, bristles with coffee shops, restaurants, ice-cream stores, craft beer bars, wineries, cheesemakers (notably the excellent W M Cofield) and restaurants. But we’re off to nearby Handline (handline.com), a glorious reinvention of a former Foster’s Freeze drive-thru diner. And yes, the menu features diner classics – burgers, tacos, soup – but elevated by the quality of cooking and beauty of the local produce. The ‘popotla verde’ halibut ceviche served with the toastiest, crispest homemade taco chips is haute cuisine in a diner apron. 136 bbcgoodfood.com OCTOBER 2017
A Sonoma vineyard Spirit Works
Handline
Sonoma offers everything from tiny street-food outfits to some of the finest cuisine anywhere in the US. And it’s always forward-thinking: the first time I ever tried the fashionable shrubs (drinks sharpened with fruit vinegars), was a couple of years back in Healdsburg’s The Shed (healdsburgshed.com). This time I go back for the full experience – oysters and ‘heritage hen hash’, a wonderful mash-up of eggs, potatoes, mustard cream and wild fennel, served on the shady terrace. Thanks to charismatic chef Christa Luedtke, the picturesque town of Guernville on the Russian River has become a foodie hotspot. Her tiny, endearing Boon Eat + Drink (eatatboon.com) is just the sort of bistro I love: full of heart and welcome. And things you really want to eat – the deep-fried Brussels sprouts dressed in olive oil, lemon, garlic and chilli are famous; vegetables often come from her garden and brownies are squidgily evil. Guerneville casts a spell: watching the life of this tiny one-street town centre, from a window seat at Big Bottom Market (bigbottommarket.com) is an urban-rustic pleasure. As are its huge, fluffy biscuits. We work off the biscuits by hiking through Armstrong Woods, followed by a profound sleep in Christa’s lovely little boutique hotel (boonhotels.com).
FOREIGN FLAVOURS, CALI STYLE
Firmly in the fine dining arena is Healdsburg’s Single Thread (singlethreadfarms.com). It’s like a Japanese inn filtered through a Californian interiors magazine; the rooftop garden an oasis for drinks. Chef Kyle Connaughton is ex-Fat Duck, but it’s the elegance of Japan that’s celebrated rather than anything tricksy. From a starter of many tiny, flawless dishes – immaculate oysters, marinated raw mackerel, tempura squash blossom, perfect vegetables with smoked miso, senbei crackers, a tongue of peachy sea urchin – to the desserts, this is a meal of mesmerising loveliness. Everything is delicate and light: sugar snap peas bright with lemon and rich with Dungeness crab; egg velouté topped with caviar. I haven’t the words – neither count nor expertise – to adequately describe the wines. Yes, it’s expensive, yes, it’s a rarefied experience – but it’s one I’ll remember for years. Even the knives are beautiful.
Photographs main image GETTY Handline DAWN HEUMANN The Shed and Single Thread ERIC WOLFINGER The Shuckery DEBBIE WILSON
verybody even vaguely interested in food and wine knows about Napa, California’s Michelin magnet and powerhouse of the grape. But fewer are as familiar with hipper, more affordable Sonoma – actually about twice the size of its swankier neighbour. For those of us who find Napa’s huge viniculture conglomerates a little corporate, travelling further west towards the coast rewards over and over again. The two areas couldn’t be more different: Napa is all limos and blockbuster wines, while there’s still a refreshing touch of the hippie about Sonoma. Here is where to come for Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, blended reds, delicious fizz, often from wineries that won’t charge for tastings. The towns that pepper the countryside are sometimes stage-set pretty. Petaluma, for example, is a beauty: its Hotel Petaluma (hotelpetaluma.com), complete with creaking 1920s lift, is the height of boutique chic; while its restaurant The Shuckery (theshuckeryca.com) has superb, juicy, fish tacos, spiky with fresh chilli and herbs and their cauliflower ‘hot wings’ – fried, Buffalo sauced, with blue cheese dip – is such a clever dish. Sisters Jasmine and Aluxa Lalicker who created this mermaid-tiled cutie know their stuff. Petaluma is blessed with pie shops, artisan butchers, cocktail bars; our choice, deservedly popular Della Fattoria (dellafattoria.com) serves legendary homemade bread and glazed, syrupy buns. Just outside town, a wine tasting at McEvoy Ranch (mcevoy ranch.com) comes with Rosebud (rosé), The Evening Standard (pinot noir), and Red Piano (everything from Montepulciano to Viognier). Their extra virgin estate-grown olive oil is every bit as good as their wines.
eat like a local
The Shed
We travel up a wild, windswept coast to Bodega Bay: famous as the setting for Hitchcock’s The Birds. As the mist swoops in, the mood becomes deliciously brooding. Fortunately, any fears are allayed by the excellent food at Drakes, in our hotel the Bodega Bay Lodge (bodegabaylodge.com): beautiful little crab cakes; huge, charred artichokes, vast Applewood-smoked local pork chops with Yukon gold potatoes. As the fog clears, we drive to the local crab shack, Spud Point Crab Co (spudpointcrab.com), for a long soft roll crammed with the sweetest crabmeat, with an array of relishes and mayos. There’s just time for Boyes Hot Springs, a suburb of Sonoma, and some delights from chef Rob Larman’s Cochon Volant BBQ Smokehouse (cochonvolantbbq.com). Here, fat buns are filled with Carolina-style pork, smoked over almond wood and tangy from cider vinegar. We leave with bottles of coriander-spiced, mustard-seeded Carolina BBQ sauce, and the signature Sonoma sauce, sweet, smoky and spicy from chipotle and chillies. As for Mexican, brightly painted El Molino Central (elmolinocentral.com) is as good as it gets: the masa flour, ground daily from organic corn; the tortillas freshly made to order; the mole poblano chicken complex and resonant. The gelato scene in Sonoma is innovative, too. Flavours here, including buttered whisky, tequila, apple-bourbon-bacon-brittle or cinnamon coffee fudge, make for a truly grown-up indulgence. Whenever in Sonoma, I’ve left via the atmospheric Fremont Diner (thefremontdiner.com). There’s no better way to say goodbye on the short hop to the airport (there’s now a non-stop British Airways flight from Gatwick into Oakland). Their homemade tomato soup comes with grilled cheese, melty and dripping. Sonoma is where you dream of when the city gets too much, while still pining for foodie sophistication. And wine: not forgetting all that wonderful wine. • Support for this trip was provided by Applewood Inn, Restaurant & Spa (applewoodinn.com), Hertz car rental (hertz.co.uk), Sonoma County tourist board (sonomacounty. com) and British Airways (britishairways.com). @marinaoloughlin
@marinagpoloughlin
Single Thread
The Shuckery
OCTOBER 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 137
YORK Insider
Look beyond its chain restaurants and York’s food scene is vibrant: from original, modern fine dining and great produce-led cafés, to hip wine bars and globe-trotting street food words TONY NAYLOR
SKOSH
Chef Neil Bentinck’s globe-trotting small plates leap between East Asian, Indian, classical French and modern British influences with a rare self-assurance. Each dish is a self-contained marvel. Do not miss his sensational hen’s egg, a glamorous union of Dale End cheddar velouté, mushrooms and PX sherry, or the brown butter hollandaise fried chicken. Skosh’s super-affable staff are brilliant, too. Plates from £3. skoshyork.co.uk CD 138 bbcgoodfood.com OCTOBER 2017
THE PIG & PASTRY
Heading out of town, Bishopthorpe Road is an enclave of indie businesses including this busy breakfast favourite. Quality Yorkshire ingredients and home-baked sourdoughs underpin its Brindisa chorizo with scrambled eggs, and the buttermilk waffles & maple syrup are a real treat. An irreverent atmosphere prevails: the Pig’s organic porridge comes with ‘poncy French yogurt.’ Breakfast from £4. thepigandpastry.com CE, CD, KF
LOS MOROS
In Shambles Market Food Court (see far right), you’ll find Tarik Abdeladim’s Los Moros shack, where he serves vividly flavoured Levantine and North African takeaway food. Originally from Algiers, Moorish cuisine played a big role in Tarik’s upbringing, which is clearly proved in his Merguez sausages, made with local lamb, and saffron Persian chicken wraps with harissa mayo and pickled beetroot slaw. Dishes from £6. @Los_Moros_York CE, CD
MELTON’S
At this elegant, gently idiosyncratic restaurant, chef-owner Michael Hjort has been applying sharp classical technique to fine seasonal Yorkshire produce since 1990. Dishes such as venison tartare with anchovy, braised nuts and a smoked oil emulsion, or lamb three ways (loin, shoulder & bacon, with a broad bean croquette), illustrate why he’s a true food hero. Mains from £18.20. meltonsrestaurant.co.uk SO
Main photograph GETTY IMAGES
LE COCHON AVEUGLE
As chef and front-of-house boss, Josh Overington and Vicky Robert have created, in Le Cochon Aveugle, a small gastronomic cocoon that is a particular product of their food obsessive personalities. Put yourselves in the duo’s welcoming hands and indulge in the constantly changing eight-course tasting menu. Served blind, each course is a magnificent culinary surprise but, have no fear, for Josh’s clever, produce-driven dishes like the rose veal tartare minced with fried capers, smoked bonito flakes and laced with a citrussy tonnato sauce; or a salad of Anarchy Urban Farm vegetables with a humdinger of a garden velouté, are beautiful, considered creations which, crucially, deliver oodles of profound flavour. As do the biodynamic and natural wines served in this lightly vintage-styled restaurant. The sister Cave du Cochon wine bar is located on the same street, where you can sample a selection of cheeses, charcuterie and small plates with your drinks. £60pp. lecochonaveugle.uk SO, CD
eat like a local
MANNION & CO.
This café does many things well, from stellar salads like the heritage tomato panzanella with burrata and superb sandwiches such as chorizo, Comté and pepperonata, to a classic eggs Benedict. Its baking is best experienced during an afternoon tea of classy open sandwiches, scones and cakes such as raspberry & lime curd tart with confit lime or chocolate orange mousse cake and cardamom cream (£19.50pp). Lunch specials from £8. mannionandco.co.uk CD, CE
5
FOODIE PLACES
TO TRY
Bluebird Bakery Mannion & Co
IL PARADISO DEL CIBO
Eating at il Paradiso is like visiting a bustling, familyrun joint in Naples’ back-streets. Over the years it has gone from a deli-pizza bar to a thriving restaurant. Fastidious methods (fresh pastas are made daily), and keen prices mean Il Paradiso is adored by the locals. Try specials such as pumpkin gnocchi, porcini, chestnut cream and speck or spaghetti, clams and bottarga. Mains from £7.95. ilparadisodelciboyork.com CE, CD, KF
SOTANO
As well as craft ales, 54 artisan gins and its crisp cocktails, this late-night basement bar serves terrific tapas until 9.30pm. Sotano’s Spanish chef, Marta Jimenez Almira, makes 10 varieties of croquetas (from squid ink to quinoa and vegetables), and, beyond meat and cheese selections, the menu takes in classics such as albondigas, chistorra sausage in cider or bacalao with crispy Serrano ham. Tapas from £4. sotano.co.uk CD
COCONUT LAGOON
A little off the usual tourist beat, just beyond the city walls this South Indian works exhilarating flavours into its freshly spiced dishes. Tamarind, dried chillies, curry leaves and mustard seeds are deployed with multi-dimensional aplomb across everything from its masala dosa to Keralan specialities such as beef chaps (chops) or a roasted coconut varutharachara lamb dish. Mains from around £8. coconutlagoonuk.com CD
ARRAS
Down on Peasholme Green, chef Adam Humphrey has returned to Yorkshire from Sydney to open this swish white space decorated with bright, Keith Haring-esque wall art. Expect fascinating wines, exceptional breads and, after quietly innovative main courses such as lamb, broad beans & celeriac purée with a savoury, toasted grains brittle, to be tempted by the cheese trolley. Two courses, £35. arrasrestaurant.co.uk SO, CD
SUITABLE FOR CD casual dining CE cheap eat KF kid friendly SO special occasion
Tony Naylor, who lives in the north of England, writes regularly for Restaurant magazine and The Guardian @naylor_tony Turn to p162 to read Tony’s column. The Pig and Pastry
Spring Espresso Armed with Square Mile beans, this coffee shop caters for all York’s flat white, drip-cup and, even, cold brew needs. springespresso.co.uk Shambles Market Check the new Food Court (pizza and arancini at Pizzoli’; Winner Winner’s Chicken Shack and more), and also neighbouring Henshelwood’s deli; craft beer bar Pivni; and the Monkbar chocolatiers. shamblesmarket.com Bluebird Bakery Real bread champions who also sell pork & fennel rolls and ace savoury Danish creations at their tiny store. bluebirdbakery.co.uk The House of The Trembling Madness Incredible craft beer bar and bottle shop housed in a 12th-Century Norman house decorated with taxidermy. tremblingmadness.co.uk York Farmers Market The first Friday of the month in St Sampson’s Square; artisan produce from local and regional food heroes like Haxby Bakehouse and Voakes’ pies. yorkshirefarmersmarkets.co.uk
OCTOBER 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 139
HALF-TERM HIDEAWAYS six quick trips
Need to get away from it all? These cool bolt holes will make the perfect base for a family foodie week away, from Northumberland’s wild shores to Devon’s new seafood coast, and some cool countryside in between
Alnmouth near Alnwick, Northumberland
NORTHUMBERLAND
Best for… seaside retreats and superb fish feasts Food-rich rivers, coast and farmland characterise Northumberland, along with a remoteness that allows kids to be kids with no one scowling at them. As your base choose the seaside village of Alnmouth, whose collage of red, blue and sandstone houses are a distinctive local landmark. In recent years, word has got out about the village’s fine collection of pubs and tea houses. Central Alnmouth Village Tea Rooms (58 Northumberland St), is perfect after a morning on the beach, with home cooked dishes ranging from ham pie (£5) to fresh crab sandwiches (£6); a whopping afternoon tea (£9) of cake, scones and sandwiches feeds two children. The nearby Red Lion (redlion
alnmouth.com) is excellent, serving pork burgers for children (£12), seabass with mushy peas (£15), and Northumberland sirloin steak with mushrooms (£19). Curlew’s Return from the Allendale Brewery is among four local ales to enjoy while overlooking the estuary. Another day, head to Craster and walk the mile to ruined Dunstanburgh Castle before buying smoked haddock from L Robson & Sons (kipper.co.uk), a traditional Northumberland smokery. Where to stay Malcolm Miller House (cottagesin northumberland.co.uk), a converted townhouse, is set right by a white sandy beach and an attractive play park, overlooking the languid Aln estuary and sleeps five people. From £410 per week including special discounts at foodie hotspots across the county. Mark Rowe
Forest Holidays tutored ranger walks
140 bbcgoodfood.com OCTOBER 2017
eat like a local
Rockfish
Brixham Harbour
HAMPSHIRE
Best for… log cabin comfort and forest fun A stay in a luxury log cabin surrounded by Hampshire’s Blackwood Forest, is something even the outdoors-averse will enjoy. If you manage to pry the kids from the all-weather hot tub, there are myriad woodland activities. Hire bikes and follow cross country trails, involve them in the forgotten art of den building, or try the tutored ranger walks including foodie foraging. Cabin kitchens are well equipped, including barbecues. Breakfast
hampers and BBQ meat packs can be pre-ordered, and the central bar/restaurant serves family favourites. Crank the luxury up a few notches with a private chef for the night. A food fairy arrives, indulges you with dishes like home smoked duck and plum salad or fillet of haddock with sumac crumb, then magics everything away. Within a short drive, Winchester is a hive of restaurant activity. Hugh Fearnley Whittingstall has a River Cottage canteen here (rivercottage.net), and Rick Stein (rickstein.com) chose it as his first location outside Cornwall. Very much a local restaurant, Stein still focuses on his signature super fresh seafood, cooked simply. Where to stay Forest Holidays ( forestholidays.co.uk) was set up by the Forestry Commission to help preserve woodland. Blackwood Forest offers three-night breaks for four during half-term, from £665. Barney Desmazery
SOUTH DEVON
Best for… eating “England’s Seafood Coast” The country’s highest value seafood catch is landed at Brixham, yet less than 10 per cent is eaten locally. Chef Mitch Tonks and local tourism bodies aim to change this, with the
new Seafood Coast initiative to make the English Riviera an international seafood capital. Start with a tour of Brixham Fish Market (Wednesdays, 6am: £15pp, from 14 years; visitbrixham.com), where 40 varieties of fish go up for auction. Then walk along the South West Coast Path (southwestcoast path.org.uk), before lunch at Rockfish (therockfish.co.uk). Mitch Tonks’ restaurant, above the market, serves premium catch of the day, local cockles and crab, and Seafood Coast Ale, the creation of Tonks and Salcombe brewer, Tom Maderious (mains £10-20). Enjoy crabbing off neighbouring Torquay’s harbour walls (kit £5 from waterfront shops), then check into Park Hill House, a luxurious hilltop retreat with glass walls overlooking the Japanese tiered garden and sweeping coast, plus there’s a cinema room and five en-suite double bedrooms. Make it extra special and local chef Nina Groves will come and cook up a seafood menu to suit all the family, including creative canapés (a favourite with the kids). Five-minutes’ walk away, at No 7 Bistro, you can choose your catch of the day, expertly cooked and served with sea greens and a huge choice of wines, including good local English labels. Next door, book a great-value, one Michelin-star lunch at The Elephant (two courses £16.50; £6.95 for children including a drink; elephantrestaurant.co.uk), where menus feature home-farmed produce and local catch. The Brixham hake with seaweed butter and purple potatoes was delicate perfection; the kids’ pasta with cheese, an accessibly grown-up dish. Where to stay Park Hill House (bluechipholidays.co.uk) sleeps 10 and costs from £1,401 for three nights in October. Sarah Barrell
OCTOBER 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 141
SHROPSHIRE
Trout fishing at Bibury Trout Farm
from the Chai Shop (33, High Street). Two outstanding pubs offer fine food: the Castle Hotel (thecastlehotel bishopscastle.co.uk), has a garden with views to enjoy smoked haddock topped with rarebit (£15). Or try, the atmospheric Three Tuns (thethree tunsinn.co.uk) whose taps run with ale from the next-door brewery. Portions are hearty classics such as beer-battered fish (£12). Where to stay Annie’s Cabin (ludlow ecologcabins.co.uk) sleeps four and costs from £395 per week. Mark Rowe
THE COTSWOLDS
Annie’s Cabin wood pellet stove
Best for… luxury cottages and gourmet treats Arriving through the fog on a winter’s night, Bruern Cottages lit up in the darkness has a magical feel. This mini hamlet of smart stone cottages tucked away on a four-acre estate in the Cotswold
Ludlow Food Centre
142 bbcgoodfood.com OCTOBER 2017
Hills, was once the coach house of Bruern Abbey. From luxury linens and antique furniture, to a basket of wood to feed the open fire, the cottages feel like your very own country manor. The indoor pool was a huge hit with the children (the ideal temperature, apparently), as were the extensive gardens and outdoor play areas; a cool games’ room the hangout for older kids. With a generous welcome basket, you may be tempted to stay put. Breakfast is great, with local sausages, bacon and dairy from the welcome basket. Beautiful blue, brown and white Cracklebean local eggs were a delight for the children; champagne, cider and lemon drizzle cake treats for later on. Just beyond Bruern, Burford Garden Centre has chocolate gifts, homemade ready meals, an array of gin and the chance to stock up on those Cracklebean eggs. Feeling more outdoorsy? You can ‘catch your own’ at Bibury Trout Farm. Worth a visit for the setting alone. Gourmet pubs abound in the local stone villages (cotswolds.com/food-and-drink). The Plough (thekinghamplough. co.uk), 10 minutes’ away in Kingham, is family friendly, with classic children’s offerings (mains £6) and a menu replete with local lamb and cheeses (mains £18-23). Where to stay Bruern Cottages (bruern-holiday-cottages.co.uk) sleep 2-10; a two-bedroom costs from £540 per week. Jilly Topping
Photographs GETTY IMAGES, ISTOCK, HOLLY PALMER/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO
Best for…. cool cabins and country walks Hills, remote pubs and landmarks, such as the Long Mynd, make Shropshire a wonderful place for a family food break, where little ones can stretch their legs and try fine local fare. Stay at Annie’s Cabin, an eye-popping self-catering structure of Douglas fir logs in a meadow outside Ludlow. George Tasker, its genius creator, provides a welcome hamper, including pain au levain from Price & Son’s Bakery (pricesthebakers.co.uk), fresh asparagus, cherries, raspberries and strawberries from Ludlow Food Centre (ludlowfoodcentre.co.uk), and fresh juices from Appleteme (appleteme.com). The cabin’s wood pellet stove has a small oven ideal for casseroles, while the earth oven will cook pizzas in a flash. Venture west to Bishop’s Castle, a hub of quirky, independent shops (shropshirefoodanddrink.co.uk). Favourites here include Andrew Pugh Butchers (ajpughbutchers. co.uk), on Church Street, where you can buy a Desperate Dan-sized fidget pie (£1.85), a local specialty, with gammon, apple, bacon and thyme, or pick up samosas (£2)
eat like a local
NORTH NORFOLK
Best for…. beautiful barns and beaches With some of the country’s best beaches, alluring old market towns, and undulating farmland, North Norfolk makes a great family food break. Six converted barns in North Barnsham, which can be rented together or individually, Barnsham Barns is an ideal base for exploring. It’s selfcatering, but chefs are available to cook family-friendly fare, with drop-off meals available too (three-course dinners from £16.50; £3.75 per child portion). Nearby, farmers’ markets include Creake Abbey and Fakenham, where you should seek out honey, saffron and fresh seafood (sea bass, crabs, lobsters), and local ales from Brancaster Brewery, Norfolk Brewhouse and Yetman’s Brewery. Gurneys Fish Shop in Burnham Market (gurneysfishshop.co.uk), has hot smoked salmon pâté, fishcakes and French-style fish soup, plus local catches, at market prices. Gastro pubs, such as Victoria Inn, the Crown Inn, the Wiveton Bell and the White Horse, are the best for sampling local dishes, while the Michelin-starred Morston Hall is great to splash out; the
The White Horse
£75-a-head tasting menu includes courses such as Holkham Hall venison with salt-baked beetroot and cabbage white pepper jus. Walk it all off at nearby Wells-next-the-Sea where huge swathes of sand are backed by colourful beach huts and pine forest. Where to stay Barnsham Barns (barsham barns.co.uk) sleep 4-14 and cost from £425 for three-nights minimum stay. Pat Riddell Assistance for this feature was provided by: For Devon, thebluechipholidays.co.uk and englishriviera.co.uk; for Hampshire, forest holidays.co.uk; for Norfolk, barshambarns. co.uk; for Northumbria, visit northumberland. com and cottagesinnorthumberland.co.uk; for Shropshire, ludlowecologcabins.co.uk and shropshire tourism.co.uk; for the Cotswolds, bruern-holiday-cottages.co.uk
Wells-Next-The-Sea
OCTOBER 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 143
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Making
with It’s time perry made a comeback says BBC Food and Farming finalist Tom Oliver, whose fruity perry is making a big impression
words CLARE HARGREAVES
G
oing back 20 years and, if someone had offered you a glass of perry you’d probably have wondered what they were talking about – or thought they meant sherry. Although perry has been made in Britain at least since the Norman Conquest, in the 1970s and 1980s it fell out of favour, perry pear orchards were grubbed up and perry became the tipple of just a few cognoscenti. Now perry (like craft ciders and real ales) is witnessing a revival, thanks to the dedication and skill of producers such as Tom Oliver from Oliver’s Cider & Perry (oliversciderandperry.co.uk), who has been named a finalist in the Best Drinks Producer category of this year’s BBC Food and Farming Awards. Tom grows over 40 varieties of perry pear on his family farm in Herefordshire, with fabulously intoxicating names like Gin, Painted Lady and Brandy. In contrast to dessert or culinary pears, perry pears tend to be small, round and astringent and inedible raw. Once harvested, the pears are washed, milled, then pressed, and the resulting juice pumped into tanks or wooden barrels and left to ferment until the spring. Tom then blends his perries to get the right balance of sweetness, acidity and astringency before bottling it. Some of Tom’s perry is still, but his bestselling Classic Perry and bottle-conditioned versions are sparkling. He also makes single varietal perries. ‘Carefully made perry has all the succulence and delicacy of a fine white wine and when conditioned appropriately, all the finesse of a fruity, rich champagne,’ says Tom. ‘I hope that being nominated a finalist in the Awards will spread the word about this wonderful, refined, and ancient, drink – the wine of England.’
& The winners of the BBC Food and Farming Awards were announced on 20 September, then in a special edition of The Food Programme on Radio 4 on 24 September. Listen again on BBC iPlayer Radio
eat like a local
merry
Perry Baked ham & cider
SERVES 18 PREP 10 mins plus soaking overnight COOK 3 hrs 45 mins MORE EFFORT
Recipe photographer EMMA BOYNS | Shoot director RACHEL BAYLY | Food stylist ELENA SILCOCK
This is one of my Dad’s old recipes, and came from a farmer’s wife he once worked for. You can make it with cider or perry. Both bring out the succulent flavours of the ham, with perry making it a little sweeter. If you use perry, add a bit more mustard and vinegar to the glaze. We eat this for Boxing Day lunch, and enjoy leftovers with eggs the following morning. What’s great about this dish is that it’s equally good hot out of the oven, or cold the next day. for the ham 4-5kg ham (off the bone) 1 litre Oliver’s Vintage Dry Cider 4 carrots, cut into chunks 2 large onions, studded with cloves large bunch fresh herbs, like rosemary, thyme and sage 1 garlic clove 2 tbsp molasses or black treacle
2 bay leaves 12 peppercorns for the glaze 1 ½ tbsp honey 1 ½ tbsp mustard powder a dribble of perry (or cider) vinegar, approx ½ tsp 1 ½ tbsp of molasses or treacle 25-30 cloves
1 Soak the ham in a pan of water overnight (if the ham is salty from dry curing). 2 Remove the ham and pat dry. Put everything, except the glaze ingredients, in a very large pan, topping up with water in order to completely cover the ham. Bring to a simmer, remove any surface scum and cook for 17-20 mins per 500g (around 3 hrs), keep topping up with water while the ham cooks. 3 When cooked, drain the ham and leave to cool for 30 mins before peeling off the skin. Meanwhile, mix all the glaze ingredients (except the cloves) together in a small bowl. Heat oven to 190C/170C fan/gas 5. 4 Score the fat in diamonds, cover the ham with the glaze and then insert cloves into each diamond. Bake in a roasting tin for 30-40 mins or until golden. Let the ham rest for 45 mins if serving hot or wait until cold. PER SERVING (18) 389 kcals • fat 20g • saturates 7g • carbs 10g • sugars 8g • fibre 2g • protein 38g • salt 4.3g
TOM’S FAVOURITE PERRY PEAR VARIETIES O Blakeney Red A greenish yellow pear with a red flush. One of the best known varieties. Also called the Painted Lady.
O Gin A pear with a green skin and orange flesh, grown since the 1500s. found in Newent, Gloucestershire.
O Thorn Good quality perry variety found in Gloucestershire and Herefordshire. Also used as a dessert pear.
O Oldfield A pear with hints of pine and citrus. So good that Tom makes a single varietal perry out of this fruit.
O Brandy Small and greenish yellow with a bright red flush, originates from west Gloucestershire.
O Winnalls Longdon Raised in Weston-under -Penyard, Herefordshire, in about 1790. Now found between Ross and Tewkesbury.
OCTOBER 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 147
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star letter I managed to make your cupcake bouquet for my children’s teachers on the last day of term. The instructions were really easy to follow and the end result was great. They were very grateful and it went down a treat! Samantha Eastwood, Colchester
We’ve just eaten the ultimate macaroni cheese (August) as our Saturday night treat tea. It received a huge round of applause from the whole family as well as a comment from my husband – ‘undoubtedly the best macaroni cheese I’ve ever had!’ We’ll definitely be having it again. Clare Kenyon, Bolton
It’s gone down well with us too, Samantha! You’ve won 12 bottles of Errazuriz Max Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 (£14.90, Waitrose). Made primarily from cabernet sauvignon grapes, with an added touch of petit verdot and cabernet franc, this Chilean wine flavours with a light spicy note.
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My dad made the ultimate chilli con carne from the July issue of @bbcgoodfood and it was delicious!
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Your recipe We love seeing your recipes – head to bbcgoodfood.com to share your delicious culinary creations with us recipe ANNA BERRY photograph EMMA BOYNS
Vegan chickpea curry jackets SERVES 4 PREP 15 mins COOK 45 mins EASY V
Food stylist ELENA SILCOCK
4 sweet potatoes 1 tbsp coconut oil 1 ½ tsp cumin seeds 1 large onion, diced 2 garlic cloves, crushed thumb-sized piece ginger, finely grated 1 green chilli, finely chopped 1 tsp garam masala
1 tsp ground coriander ½ tsp turmeric 2 tbsp tikka masala paste 2 x 400g can chopped tomatoes 2 x 400g can chickpeas, drained lemon wedges and coriander leaves, to serve
1 Heat oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Prick the sweet potatoes all over with a fork, then put on a baking tray and roast in the oven for 45 mins or until tender when pierced with a knife. 2 Meanwhile, melt the coconut oil in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the cumin seeds and fry for 1 min until fragrant, then add the onion and fry for 7-10 mins until softened. 3 Put the garlic, ginger and green chilli into the pan, and cook for 2-3 mins. Add the spices and tikka masala paste and cook for a further 2 mins until fragrant, then tip in the tomatoes. Bring to a simmer, then tip in the chickpeas and cook for a further 20 mins until thickened. Season. 4 Put the roasted sweet potatoes on four plates and cut open lengthways. Spoon over the chickpea curry and squeeze over the lemon wedges. Season, then scatter with coriander before serving. GOOD TO KNOW vegan • healthy • low fat • fibre • iron • 3 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING 276 kcals • fat 9g • saturates 3g • carbs 32g • sugars 12g • fibre 11g • protein 12g • salt 0.3g
My Good Food member Anna Berry
‘This curry has evolved over time, from a favourite recipe in one of my cookbooks to something of my own. I like to change it up sometimes when I’m cooking it, serving it with different toppings and sides. It’s a great vegan recipe that uses ingredients that I always have in the cupboard – and it fills my boyfriend up, which is no easy feat!’
Got a recipe to share? Visit bbcgoodfood.com and create an account in My Good Food – your recipe could be featured in a future issue
OCTOBER 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 159
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Our recipes are triple-tested: we cook them all three times to ensure they work for you
• Always read the recipe
thoroughly before starting, and use standard measuring spoons for accuracy. • Where possible, we use humanely reared British meats, free-range chicken and eggs, and sustainably sourced fish. • We help you to avoid waste by using full packs, or suggesting how to use leftovers. • If egg size is important, we’ll state it in the recipe. Helping you to eat well Our nutritional therapist analyses our recipes on a
per-serving basis, not including optional serving suggestions. You can compare these amounts with the Reference Intake (RI), the official amount an adult should consume daily: Energy 2,000 cals, Protein 50g, Carbohydrates 260g, Fat 70g, Saturates 20g, Sugar 90g, Salt 6g (please note, RIs for saturates, sugar and salt are maximum daily amounts). How we label our recipes Our vegetarian (V) or vegan recipes are clearly labelled, but check pack ingredients
160 bbcgoodfood.com OCTOBER 2017
to ensure they’re suitable. If we say you can freeze a recipe (G), freeze it for up to three months unless otherwise stated. Defrost thoroughly and heat until piping hot. A low-fat recipe has 12g of fat or less per serving. A recipe is ‘healthy’ if it is low in saturated fat, with 5g or less per serving; low in salt, with 1.5g or less; and low in sugar, with 15g or less. A low-calorie recipe has 500 calories or less per main course, 150 calories or less for a dessert.
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RECIPE KEY
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Gluten free
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Suitable for freezing
Meat Baked chilli & jacket potatoes 34 Baked ham & cider 147 Braised lamb neck, miso polenta & smoked almond pesto 122 Chinese beef & aubergine hotpot 117 Cumberland sausage with apples & onions 15 Easy lamb hotpot 29 Malt-glazed roast pork & crackling 108 Pan-fried pork belly with courgette, fennel & preserved lemon salad 125 Roast venison loin with pumpkin & Sichuan salt 109 Slow cooker lamb curry 97 Spanish lamb with sherry, honey & peppers 112 Spider pizzas 56
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Asian greens 40 Black pudding & apple croquetas 126 Celeriac & cavolo nero colcannon with thyme & bacon crumb 18 Egg fried rice 40 Mini baked potatoes with sticky sausages 54 Oat & chia porridge with prunes 101 Ouija board cocktail 121 Preserved lemons 125 Pumpkin houmous 52 Sherry & orange caramelised fennel with goat’s curd 112 Sweet Manahattan 11 Swede purée 20
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Alsace 6 Quattro formaggi toastie 6 Ricotta, fig & sesame bagel 7 Smoked mac ’n’ cheese 6 Spinach, squash & tamarind 7
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Chicken & lemon skewers 33 Crispy duck with pancakes 87 Pheasant braised with leeks, cider & apples 18 Roast spiced duck with plums 107 Sichuan chicken wings 38 Slow cooker chicken curry 98
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we'll share the best on Twitter and Instagram @bbcgoodfood #whatimcooking Fish Bacallà a la llauna, spinach & piquillo peppers 125 Cod & smashed celeriac 30 Japanese Caesar salad 122 Roast salmon with rye & horseradish crumble & kale salsa verde 108 Steamed sea bass 40 The ultimate fish pie 130
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Aubergine, lentil & walnut ragu 20 Beetroot & lentil tabbouleh 27 Celeriac ribbon ‘pasta’ tossed with chard, garlic & pumpkin seeds 24 Chard, preserved lemon & fresh cheese pie 21 Charred spring onions & teriyaki tofu 34 Creamy squash linguine 43 Fettucine alfredo 36 Matar paneer 26 Slow cooker vegetable curry 98 Squash & lentil salad 43 Squash, sage & sourdough bake 19 Squash quesadillas 43 Vegan chickpea curry jackets 159
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make it snap it post it
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68 Baking & desserts
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Black forest arctic roll 68 Black velvet cupcakes 50 Carrot & beetroot dessert 123 Chocolate roly-poly pudding 62 Chocolate shards 45 Classic custard 64 Easy chocolate cake 45 IPA treacle tart 67 Madeira-roast quince fool 18 Mummy pie 50 MAKE OUR COVER RECIPE Open-face pear & berry pie 60 Pineapple & cherry steamed sponge with coconut rum custard 62 Spiced apple & blackberry hand pies 64 Sweet shortcrust pastry 64 Torrijas with sherry 114 Wicked witch apples 54
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OCTOBER 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 161
70 new triple-tested recipes
this month’s recipes
the last word
Tony Naylor
Food trends: the keepers and the clangers @naylor_tony
T
rends, trends, trends: food is driven by them, and why not? Eating out would be mighty dull were we not open to new ideas. But this is a notoriously inexact science. For every movement, there is a fad. For every epochal shift, a disposable hype. The jury may still be out on natural wine and British charcuterie, but what of the big trends over the past two decades? Here is my personal overview.
CLANGERS
z‘Gastropubs’ The concept (affordable, unfussy food in working pubs), is sound. But as soon as the big pubcos piled in, they turned the gastropub into a formula that was all generic-style over scratch-cooked substance: bare floorboards; squishy leather sofas; flabby pan-fried sea bass. Now, every third pub is a gastropub charging £15 for pork belly, yet, often, the food is dire. zThe rise of the restaurant lecture ‘Could I take a moment to explain the chef’s concept?’ asks the head waiter, as if he is about to reveal the Dead Sea Scrolls, rather than some banal context from the chef’s personal life. Then each dish is portentously announced with a list of components that take longer to recite than eat, and which I instantly forget. Such interruptions are painfully awkward for the (previously happily chatting) table and waiting staff alike. Tip: if the food can’t speak for itself, don’t serve it. zSupper clubs What?! You want me to go to some blogger’s flat, make small talk with strangers, and pay for it? I’ll give you 25 quid if I can stay at home. 162 bbcgoodfood.com OCTOBER 2017
zDude food Yo, bro! For, like, a hot minute this part-ay was KABOOM! But, maaaan, as we binged on Man v. Food and Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives, that funkalicious chow got real old, real fast. All those sloppy burgers and poutine mountains began to taste kinda lame. It’s not adult food, dude. It’s garbage. Where’s the bin? zClean eating Call it pseudoscience, call it lifestyle fascism, but, 100%, clean eating sucks all the joy from food. Life is too short for kale smoothies.
KEEPERS
zThe demise of fine dining Ludicrously, the first few times I went out for a ‘posh’ meal in the 1990s, I wore a suit. The experience – starchy waiters, hushed dining rooms, impenetrably French menus – was as relaxing as a colonoscopy. Today, UK restaurants operate in an unrecognisably breezy atmosphere. zBrunching out Britain’s love affair with Oz-style brunch dining and on-point coffee has transformed my weekends. Keep your full English. I’ll have the huevos rancheros or shakshuka. zCraft beer We live in a crisp, golden age of hop-forward flavour and stylistic exploration. From juicy New England IPAs to huge imperial stouts, British beer has never been better. zWood-fired wonders At the intersection of street food and obsessive artisan food (two worlds I enjoy, but with caveats), lies a phenomenon I love: the rise of authentic, Neapolitan-style wood-fired pizza. For £10, you can have perfection on a plate. zNew Nordic More than Modern British (creatively limited, ultimately) or molecular gastronomy (an essential if gimmicky movement), this post-Noma cooking philosophy offers a cogent, holistic ethos for chefs, diners and the planet. In its respect for technology and historic craft techniques, New Nordic offers vast creative scope, and its focus on seasonal, native ingredients is geographically transferable and sustainable, too. It feels like an end-game for food, generationally. Tony Naylor writes for Restaurant magazine and The Guardian. Do you agree with Tony? Let us know on Facebook and Twitter #bbcgfopinion
Illustration NICK SHEPHERD | Portrait DAVID COTSWORTH
Life is too short for kale smoothies. Our columnist Tony Naylor reveals the winners and losers in the food trend stakes
