Fine Cooking 2016 10-11

A New Way to Roast Vegetables, p. 64

Sweet Potato Desserts Pie, Cheesecake, and More 10 Easy

Holiday Sides Turkey 2 ways: Roasted and Braised

Apple Cornbread Skillet Cobbler Cooking with

Beer

Learn to Love

Whole-Grain

Pasta

october/november 2016 • No.143 www.finecooking.com

Sweet Potato Pie with Toasted Marshmallow Topping, p. 8 6

contents

october/november 2016 issue 143

f e at u r e s

52 Cornbread and Beyond One simple batter, four delicious dishes By Stefani Pollack

60 Turkey Two Ways

Roast the breast and braise the legs to get the best out of both. Text by Joanne Smart; recipes by John Ash

64 Steam-Roasted Vegetables

This easy hybrid technique delivers tender-on-the-inside, golden-brownon-the-outside potatoes, carrots, cauliflower, and more. By Laraine Perri

70 Cooking with Beer

Discover which brews to put in which bites. By Emma Christensen

76 Learn to Love Whole-Grain Pastas

Embrace their unique flavors by pairing them with bold ingredients. By Maria Speck

82 Sweet on Sweet Potatoes

Move over, pumpkin. This orange root makes great fall desserts, too. By Nancie McDermott Steam-roasted carrots await a dusting of the Egyptian spice-andnut blend known as dukkah. Get the recipe on p. 64.

CONTENTS october/november 2016 issue 143

17

92 16

17

96 17

93

d e pa r t m e n t s

15 The Reading List

Inspiring books from three beloved restaurants

16 Great Finds

Our latest buys for the kitchen and table

19 CookFresh TRY THIS

Satsumas

WHAT WE’RE COOKING NOW

Hot Peppers, Broccoli, Pumpkin, Figs, Red Cabbage, Fingerling Potatoes, Apples 3 WAYS WITH... Brussels Sprouts

in every issue

FOOD SCIENCE

42 Roast Your Turkey Like a Pro 16 tips from our science experts to help you get the most from your holiday bird ON LOCATION

47 Southern Roots Revisited

This Lowcountry feast nods to the old while embracing the new.

6 8 12 14 100 101 102

MENUS EDITOR’S LETTER CONTRIBUTORS #FINECOOKING SOURCES NUTRITION RECIPE INDEX

91 Test Kitchen

Tips, techniques, equipment, ingredients, and more, from our experts

LIKE THIS APP? Your feedback is valuable to us

31 Make It Tonight

Fresh and easy weeknight cooking

4

FINE COOKING • OCT/NOV 2016

Cover photograph by Scott Phillips; food styling by Ronne Day

Contents photographs by Scott Phillips; food styling by Ronne Day and Diana Andrews

BOOKS THAT COOK

TO S T I R- F RY THINGS UP

BECAUSE I S AY P OTATO

TO E AT

W H Y I C O O K®

BETTER

TO S T E A L THE SHOW

TO M A K E M O M’S R E C I P E

MY WAY

TO G E T AWAY

TO E X P LO R E M Y R O OT S

BECAUSE I T ’ S CO O K I N G W E AT H E R

T H E B E S T I N G R E D I E N T S M A K E T H E B E S T D I S H E S. No preservatives, nothing artificial, just bold chicken flavor.

Learn. Share. Inspire. #WhyICook © 2016 CSC Brands, LP

MENUS Thanksgiving Feast

Sunday Supper

Braised Turkey Legs with Crisp Pancetta and Parsley

Whole-Grain Spaghetti with Wild Mushrooms, Rosemary, and Bacon

page 63

page 78

Escarole Salad with Olives and Garlic Croutons

Game Day Buffet

FineCooking.com

Lemon-Cardamom Cookies with Saison Glaze page 74

To drink: Oregon Pinot Noir

Pale Ale Pulled-Chicken Sliders page 72

Ham and Mushroom Quesadilla page 36

Steam-Roasted Potatoes with Oregano and Lemon page 68

Family Night

Forty Shades of Green Salad

Grilled Skirt Steak with Adobo Butter

Peanut Butter and Chocolate Sandwich Cookies

Maple-Brined Turkey Breast with Mushroom Gravy

Steam-Roasted Roots with Maple, Sriracha, and Thyme

To drink: American pale ale

page 62

page 66

Cornbread Stuffing with Chorizo, Wild Mushrooms, and Scallions

Radish and Avocado Salad with Buttermilk Dressing

FineCooking.com

FineCooking.com

page 40

page 56

Satsuma Cranberry Sauce page 20

Shredded Brussels Sprouts Salad with Oranges, Toasted Walnuts, and Crisp Prosciutto page 30

Mashed Potatoes with Caramelized Shallots FineCooking.com

Sweet Potato Pie with Toasted Marshmallow Topping page 86

To drink: Chardonnay and Pinot Noir

6

FINE COOKING • OCT/NOV 2016

FineCooking.com

Apple Cornbread Skillet Cobbler page 58

To drink: Garnacha

Vegetarian Dinner Arugula Salad with Dried Cherries and Pistachios FineCooking.com

Southwestern Squash and Black Bean Quiche with Cornbread Crust page 55

Hot and Sour Brussels Sprouts page 28

Sweet Potato Crème Brûlée page 89

To drink: Rosé

Photographs by Scott Phillips; food styling by Ronne Day

L E T T E R F R O M T H E E D I TO R

Hello, fall!

RECIPES

Fresh s Idea with Filippo

Oil ® Berio Olive

rprises: GrillingadSa,uand Sangria! Pizza, Tost

Marinade

Primer

ave 5 Must-Hauces S er m m u S Fine Cooking

For Filippo

Berio

Download our mini-magazine filled with recipes, tips, and facts about olive oil, and the many ways to use it every day. Get yours now:

filippoberio.com

SU MM ER

20 16

This issue is all about feeding that re-emerging hunger to get back in the kitchen as the seasons change.

Roasted vegetables are a perennial fall favorite, and on p. 64, you’ll find a brilliant yet dead simple new technique for making them the best ever. When it comes to drinks, beer is at the top of my list during any season, but why stop with drinking it? On p. 70, home-brewing expert Emma Christensen shows us how to cook with it, too. For all of you bakers out there, we have two articles you’ll love: “Cornbread and Beyond” (p. 52), in which you’ll learn how truly versatile cornbread batter can be (hint: You don’t always have to make cornbread with it), and “Sweet on Sweet Potatoes” (p. 82), featuring amazing autumn desserts like pie and cheesecake that should convince you to pass right on by the canned pumpkin as Thanksgiving rolls near. And as for the holiday bird itself, this year we’re changing it up by skipping the whole turkey and cooking it in parts instead, using different techniques to get the best out of both (p. 60). Speaking of changing it up, I have something else to tell you: After 16 years and 101 issues of Fine Cooking, this issue is my last. It’s time for me to move on, something I’m both excited and a little sad about. I started at Fine Cooking as an assistant editor almost right out of culinary school. I was so proud to be here. Fine Cooking was (and still is) the best culinary publication out there, and I was going to be a part of it—hello, dream job! Over the years, I’ve risen from assistant editor to recipe tester, test kitchen manager, senior food editor, and since 2011, chief editor of the magazine. Through all these jobs and all these years, one thing has remained constant: how much I love hearing from Fine Cooking readers. Your triumphs in the kitchen were mine, too. When you wrote to say that you had knocked it out of the park with one of our recipes and your friends all thought you were a culinary genius, I was elated for the rest of the day. I’m going to miss that. But Fine Cooking will continue to be a valuable source of inspiration and information for you, the people who love to cook. As for me, I’m not gone for good. I’ll continue to contribute to the magazine here and there as an editor at large, and in the meantime, I’m looking forward to joining you as a loyal reader of Fine Cooking. Cheers! Jennifer Armentrout, editor @jenarmentrout

© 2016 The Taunton Press

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FINE COOKING • OCT/NOV 2016

Photograph by Scott Phillips

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Fine Cooking: (ISSN: 1072-5121) is published six times a year by The Taunton Press, Inc., Newtown, CT 06470-5506. Telephone 203-426-8171. Periodicals postage paid at Newtown, CT 06470 and at additional mailing offices. GST paid registration #123210981. Subscription Rates: U.S., $29.95 for one year, $49.95 for two years, $69.95 for three years. Canada, $31.95 for one year, $53.95 for two years, $75.95 for three years (GST included, payable in U.S. funds). Outside the U.S./Canada: $42 for one year, $72 for two years, $102 for three years (payable in U.S. funds). Single copy U.S., $6.95. Single copy Canada, $7.95. Postmaster: Send address changes to Fine Cooking, The Taunton Press, Inc., 63 South Main St., PO Box 5506, Newtown, CT 06470-5506. Canada Post: Return undeliverable Canadian addresses to Fine Cooking, c/o Worldwide Mailers, Inc., 2835 Kew Drive, Windsor, ON N8T 3B7, or email to [email protected]. Printed in the USA

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Publishers of magazines, books, videos, and online Fine Woodworking • Fine Homebuilding Threads • Fine Gardening • Fine Cooking taunton.com

La Baleine Grey sea salt, naturally crystallized by sun and sea breezes, is harvested by hand according to ancient ancestral methods. It can replace table salt to add a delicate natural flavor. And it particularly complements strong, bold flavors. 100% pure sea salt. No additives or preservatives.

F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M

11

contributors

• My top beer-related travel destination is...

San Diego, which has all sorts of new, small breweries making really amazing beers. Award-winning chef and author John Ash (“Turkey Two Ways,” p. 60) teaches at the Culinary Institute of America in St. Helena, California. His latest book is Cooking Wild. • The ingredient I splurge on is... fresh porcini mushrooms. • My favorite culinary bird is... squab. It would be part of my last meal. • My latest kitchen purchase is... a large and loud timer. Must be that I’m getting older! James Beard Award winner Maria Speck (“Learn to Love Whole-Grain Pastas,” p. 76) was raised in Germany and Greece. She recently won an M.F.K. Fisher Award for work from her latest book, Simply Ancient Grains.

• My latest whole-grain discovery is...

heirloom grains such as red fife and purple wheat, and Abenaki rose corn. The flavors of these grains are a revelation. • The food I won’t go near is... none. I might hesitate to try snake meat or munch some ants, but I know that in the end, my curious palate always wins. • M y favorite food town is... Munich. There are fresh pretzels at almost every street corner. The Hofpfisterei bakery makes unsurpassed traditional sourdough loaves using rye, spelt, and millet. Plus, superb dark beer. Can life be any better?

12

fine cooking • oct/nov 2016

Laraine Perri (“SteamRoasted Vegetables,” p. 64) is as passionate about music as she is about food: She has developed more than 700 published recipes, and she’s a Grammy Award winning record producer. • M y Thanksgiving dinner must include… an unreasonable number of vegetable sides, and my grandmother’s sausage and sage stuffing. • M y favorite new vegetable discovery is… lamb’s quarters. Technically a weed, it’s wonderful simply sautéed with olive oil and garlic, or in a gratin with Gruyère and cream.  hen I’m cooking, I like to listen to… silence • W when I’m developing recipes. Otherwise, it’s NPR by day, jazz by night. Stefani Pollack (“Cornbread and Beyond,” p. 52) is a full-time writer, recipe developer, and blogger (CupcakeProject.com) from St. Louis, Missouri, who believes that everyone should cook and bake from scratch. • I love blogging because... every day is different, I’m my own boss, and I set my own schedule. • My latest kitchen purchase was... a full-size deep fryer to step up my doughnut game. • I most love baking for... anyone having a rough day who needs a treat and a smile.

Author of 13 cookbooks, Nancie McDermott (“Sweet on Sweet Potatoes,” p. 82) lives in North Carolina, where she teaches cooking classes. Her next book, Southern Fruit, will be published in spring 2017. • M y Thanksgiving dessert table must include... whipped cream—and lots of it— to go with the too many pies and too many cakes awaiting our return to the table after a nap or a walk. • T he ingredient I splurge on is... crab. I love it in simple, not-much-to-’em crab cakes, seafood gumbo, and crab fried rice. • I love to travel to... Asia. I’ve been inspired by many Asian cuisines, and after many journeys to many Asian countries, I still hunger for the next trip.

To contact us: Fine Cooking The Taunton Press 63 South Main Street PO Box 5506 Newtown, CT 06470-5506 Tel: 203-426-8171 Send an email to: [email protected] Visit: finecooking.com To submit an article proposal: Write to Fine Cooking at the address above or Call: 800-309-0744 Fax: 203-426-3434 Email: [email protected] To subscribe or place an order: Visit finecooking.com/fcorder or call: 800-888-8286 9am-9pm et Mon-Fri 9am-5pm et Sat To find out about Fine Cooking products: Visit finecooking.com/products To get help with online member services: Visit finecooking.com/customerservice To find answers to frequently asked questions: Visit finecooking.com/FAQs To contact Fine Cooking customer service: Email us at [email protected] To speak directly to a customer service professional: Call 800-477-8727 9am-5pm et Mon-Fri To sell Fine Cooking in your store: Call us toll-free at 866-452-5179, or email us at [email protected] To advertise in Fine Cooking: Call 800-309-8940, or email us at [email protected] Mailing list: We make a portion of our mailing list available to reputable firms. If you would prefer that we not include your name, please visit: finecooking.com/privacy or call: 800-477-8727 9am-5pm et Mon-Fri For employment information: Visit careers.taunton.com The Taunton guarantee: If at any time you’re not completely satisfied with Fine Cooking, you can cancel your subscription and receive a full and immediate refund of the entire subscription price. No questions asked. Copyright 2016 by The Taunton Press, Inc. No reproduction without permission of The Taunton Press, Inc.

Photographs clockwise from top: Danielle Tsi, Timothy Valk, J. Pollack Photography, Judy Ross, Somerby Jones, Eric Wolfinger

Emma Christensen (“Cooking with Beer,” p. 70) is a former editor for The Kitchn, the online food magazine, and the author of two cookbooks on home brewing, True Brews and Brew Better Beer. • The best thing about home brewing is... the “pfffft!” sound when popping the cap off a bottle from a really successful batch. • The beer that people need to try is... gosestyle beers—they’re like a fizzy Sweet Tart candy in beer form.

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You talk (or email, post, or pin), and we listen! Here’s what some of you are saying and cooking. Use #finecooking in your social media posts if you’d like to see your words or pictures on this page in upcoming issues.

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@ketogenic_chick: Radish and Avocado Salad with Buttermilk Dressing (June/July 2016) We think @a-g-baby did a beautiful job with this cake (“Piece of Cake,” June/July 2016). Did you try it? Let us know how it turned out!

@skirmantem: Chicken Cutlets with Peach and Arugula Salad (August/ September 2016)

FineCooking.com ndchef: Smoky Seared Squash with Chorizo and Chickpeas (August/ September 2016): This was incredibly good—hard to imagine how the tastes meld into something so great! Smashing the chickpeas was new to me, and I loved the texture. I used tiny chopped chorizo for ease, and it was all so tasty. I will make this again and again, probably til we get tired of it! Raynfigi: Grilled Flap Steak and Asparagus with Béarnaise Butter (June/ July 2016): Absolutely delicious. I will cook this all summer. Thank you.

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FINE COOKING • OCT/NOV 2016

Photographs: top left, a_g_baby; bottom left, SkirmanteM; top right, Elyssa Whaley; bottom right, Scott Phillips

B O O K S T H AT C O O K

The Reading List Inspiring books from three beloved restaurants BY JOANNE SMART

Poole’s

The Red Rooster Cookbook

Soframiz

Recipes and Stories from a Modern Diner

The Story of Food and Hustle in Harlem

Vibrant Middle Eastern Recipes from Sofra Bakery & Cafe

By Ashley Christensen (Ten Speed Press; $35)

By Marcus Samuelsson (Houghton Mifflin Harcourt; $37.50)

Since making Raleigh, North Carolina, her home, chef Ashley Christensen has opened multiple restaurants there, but Poole’s Diner was her first back in 2007. I’ve not had the pleasure of dining at Poole’s, one of the South’s most celebrated restaurants, but the cookbook has me wanting to try every single recipe in it. Part of Christensen’s genius is starting with homey fare that we can all relate to and then elevating it to make it sound (and taste) better still. For her Caramelized Onion-Tomato Soup with Jarlsberg Croutons, she conjures two of the most comforting soups in the world: tomato soup and French onion soup. She uses a hand mixer on her mashed potatoes, just like my mom used to, but she flavors the purée with an herb-infused cream. Christensen says that “the distance between the restaurant version and the home cook version of my food is probably smaller than it is for most chefs.” That’s good news to the fans of her Macaroni au Gratin, which are legion. That said, she admits that the key to its success at the restaurant is the cook at the mac and cheese station tasting it for texture and seasoning before topping it with cheese and sending it under the broiler. That might take practice for the home cook to master, but it would be delicious practice at that.

Marcus Samuelsson is one of the coolest chefs. Sartorially, he’s hard to match, and he’s also a great writer, which he demonstrated in his memoir Yes, Chef. As executive chef of Aquavit in Manhattan, he made Nordic food fashionable long before the rest of us were talking about it. (Samuelsson was born in Ethiopia but raised by adoptive parents in Sweden where, as he puts it, “My chicken was salmon.”) In 2010, he opened Red Rooster in Harlem, the iconic and ever-changing New York City neighborhood. In the book’s preface, Samuelsson sheds light on what compelled him to leave the world of foie gras and foams to cook, literally and figuratively, closer to home. The result is a restaurant—and now a cookbook—featuring his style of soul food, embracing American, Ethiopian, and Swedish comfort dishes. To understand where he’s coming from, read the chapter called Birdland, in which he traces the birth of his best-selling menu item, the Yardbird. It includes his friend, the singer John Legend (I told you the chef is cool) yelling at him to “just fry the damn bird!” Legend is far from the only musician featured in the book as music, specifically jazz, informs Samuelsson’s neighborhood, his writing, and given its many riffs and collaborations, his cooking style, too.

Drinks, too: Garden & Gun Club. Christensen likes a good cocktail, and this citrusy bourbon concoction, named for one of her favorite magazines, is a good one.

One to try: Catfish and Pecans. Samuelsson makes fried catfish shine in a dish that includes pecans, apples, raisins, capers, and—in a nod to his roots—dill.

Photographs by Scott Phillips

By Ana Sortun & Maura Kilpatrick (Ten Speed Press; $35)

Like its big sister, Oleana Restaurant, Sofra Bakery & Cafe is an institution in the city of Cambridge, Massachusetts. A collaboration of Oleana chef and founder Ana Sortun and business partner and pastry chef Maura Kilpatrick, Sofra is a reflection of the cafés and souks the two have visited throughout their travels to the Middle East. As they explain, the word “encompasses everything you bring to the table: food, place settings, glassware, decor, linens.” Add the suffix “miz,” and it becomes “our sofra,” which is as much a place as a feeling of warmth and hospitality. Since 2008, the two have been sharing that spirit in dishes like feta pogaca, a flaky biscuit made with carrots and dill, offered along with other breakfast treats. At lunchtime, folks order flatbreads, falafel, and fattoush. You’ll find these recipes and many more in this gorgeous cookbook accompanied by photos by Kristin Teig so mouthwatering that it’s actually difficult to look at this book on an empty stomach. Thankfully, because Sortun and Kilpatrick demystify ingredients and gear preparations for an American audience, you won’t stay hungry for long. Don’t miss: Lamb Shawarma with Pickled Cabbage and Tahini. While the components take some time to make, they can be made ahead and come together in a perfectly balanced bite that makes you crave more.

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Great Finds

Our latest buys for the kitchen and table BY REBECCA FREEDMAN

Thanksgiving Prep Whether you’re roasting, mashing, rolling, baking, or even just serving, we’ve got you covered. Here are six new products to help you pull off the big feast. 1 Smash Hit The Smood may look like a whisk, but it’s actually a clever masher—just press down on cooked potatoes or squash, and force them through the tool’s flexible coils. Bonus: A silicone scraper on one side of the coil scrapes down the sides of the bowl as you mash. $24.95; dreamfarm.com; 415-626-3333.

1

2 For the Birds Inspired by Pennsylvania Dutch artwork, WilliamsSonoma’s gorgeous blue-and-gold-hued Lancaster line of serveware, dinnerware, and linens makes a striking addition to the holiday table. Prices vary; williams-sonoma.com; 877-812-6235. 3 Roast With the Most Cristel’s heavy-duty roasting pan has so many pluses—wide, sturdy, easy-to-grasp handles to help you maneuver it; a matte surface to prevent scratching; a flat, flameproof bottom for whisking up pan gravy on the stovetop; and an adjustable roasting rack—that it’s great for smaller roasts as well as your turkey. $229.99; bloomingdales .com; 800-777-0000.

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3

4 Need a Lift? Help the bird get from roasting pan to carving board with All-Clad’s polished stainless-steel Professional Roast lifters. $34.99; williams-sonoma.com; 877-812-6235. 5 Get Rolling Getting pie crust right can be challenging for any baker, but T-Fal’s Ingenio rolling pin makes it that much easier. The nonstick surface prevents dough from sticking, meaning less flour for your work surface (and hence, less mess). Built-in legs keep the pin from rolling away when you’re done with it. $28.99; wayfair.com; 866-263-8325. 6 Cutie Pie Step aside, utilitarian aluminum and glass pie plates: Emile Henry’s ruffled dish is far more elegant. Made from Burgundian clay, which is known for its excellent heat retention and distribution, this dish comes in five colors and is fridge, freezer, microwave, and oven safe. $50; emile henryusa.com; 302-326-4800.

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FINE COOKING • OCT/NOV 2016

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4

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»

Let It Grain With a delicately nutty flavor and a bite reminiscent of wild rice, Riseria Campanini Venere riso nero (aka black Venus rice) makes a creamy risotto with grains that stay pleasantly firm. Its deep, dark color is visually stunning, too: Try it as a bed for salmon or shrimp. $6 for 1 lb.; demedici.com.

»

Main Squeeze We’re longtime fans of Oxo’s large citrus juicer, so we were thrilled when a small version hit the market. This tool is a multitasker, conveniently reaming, straining, and measuring. It’s ideal for when you need just a little juice for a quick vinaigrette or to brighten up a soup. $9.99; oxo.com; 800-545-4411.

»

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Hot H ot Pot A strainer built into the lid of Bialetti’s colorful pasta pot eliminates the need for a colander: Just boil your spaghetti, twist and lock the lid, and drain through the lid’s holes. $29.99; bialetti.com.

»

»

Cover Me We love cooking in a cast-iron skillet, but that screaming hot handle? Not so much. Enter Lodge’s nifty hot handle mitt, developed in conjunction with baseballglove manufacturer Nokona Leather Goods. It not only allows for a sturdy grip, but also protects hands from temperatures up to 600°F. $28 (with stitching) and $21.50 (without); lodge mfg.com; 423-837-7181.

Photographs by Scott Phillips; food styling by Ronne Day

»

Ghee Whiz Cooks have long appreciated ghee, a type of clarified butter, for its health benefits and ability to stand up to high heat. Fourth & Heart’s line has an added advantage: It comes infused with sweet and savory flavors, including white truffle salt, Himalayan pink salt, California garlic, and Madagascar vanilla bean. From $17.03 for 9 oz.; amazon.com.

Bean There Rodelle Reserve vanilla extract is aged in French oak barrels and comes with a vanilla bean in each bottle to enhance its aroma. It’s on the pricier side, so like a fine extra-virgin olive oil, save it for uses where its flavor will really shine through. $47.03 for 6.75 oz.; amazon.com.

Raise a Glass Riedel, renowned for its wineglasses, has launched a new line for beer drinkers. While thicker steins can retain more heat, Veritas glasses are exceptionally thin, reducing temperature exchange among the liquid, the glass, and the environment, so your beer stays colder for longer. $69 for a set of 2; riedelusa.net.

F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M

17

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Try ThiS

satsumas Along with tangerines and clementines, satsumas (Citrus unshiu) are part of the Mandarin family of small oranges with loose skin. Known as “honey citrus” for their sweet flavor, little satsumas are practically the perfect fruit: tender, juicy, easy to peel, seedless, and full of fragrant flavor. The harvest begins for these deeporange fruits in late September or early October—earlier than other citrus—so they’re perfect for kicking off the citrus season. Continued on page 20

Photographs by Scott Phillips; food styling by Ronne Day

F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M

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try this

satsumas

Big in Japan Satsumas have grown in the former Satsuma province of southern Japan for at least 700 years. An American general’s wife sent a tree home to the United States in the late 1800s. Shortly thereafter, more than a million trees were shipped to the Gulf Coast. The cold-hardy trees can withstand the region’s occasional cold snaps better than other citrus varieties, so they’re well suited to large-scale commercial farming there, as well as in Northern California. Their thin, delicate skin makes them difficult to ship, so the majority of satsumas are sold canned, though improved shipping technology means that these days, we can increasingly find and enjoy them fresh.

Look for leaves

Pair with bold flavors

A good indicator of freshness at the market is whether satsumas still have their stems and leaves. If so, look for healthy, green leaves, although those with the stems removed can still be perfectly good. Choose ones that feel heavy for their size with glossy, fragrant peels. It’s fine if the skin feels a little loose around the fruit, but the satsuma shouldn’t feel squishy or look wrinkled. Don’t worry if there’s some greenness on the peel—sometimes the fruit ripens before the peel changes color. Satsumas can be refrigerated for up to one week, preferably in the crisper drawer.

With their intensely floral, sweet, and tangy notes, satsumas are a nice addition to boldly flavored dishes, both sweet and savory. Toss them in salads, or use their juice and zest in cakes, or in more savory sauces and glazes. Their sweetness balances out tart flavors like cranberries, as in the recipe below, or lemons. And their tartness works nicely against sweeter flavors, like brown butter, brown sugar, and honey. —Layla Schlack

satsuma cranberry sauce Fragrant satsumas add bright, juicy, floral sweetness to tart cranberries. If you’re a Negroni lover, you’ll enjoy the flavor of Campari with the citrus, but if you don’t drink it, no need to buy a bottle for this recipe. Serves 6 to 8 12 oz. cranberries, fresh or frozen 12 oz. satsumas, zest finely grated (about 2 tsp.) and juiced (about 1/2 cup) ½ cup turbinado sugar Pinch kosher salt

2 Tbs. Campari (optional)

Combine the cranberries, satsuma juice, sugar, and salt in a 2-quart saucepan. Bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to a simmer and add the Campari, if using. Simmer, stirring occasionally, until the cranberries have mostly burst, 5 to 7 minutes. Stir in the zest. Let cool to room temperature, about 1 hour, before serving. (The sauce will thicken as it cools.) It can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 3 days.

—Layla Schlack

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What we’re cooking now Fine Cooking editors and a reader share some delicious ideas for in-season ingredients.

Wine-Poached Figs

Sweet Hot Pepper Relish

Toss finely chopped hot peppers with diced pear, finely chopped red onion, and finely chopped cilantro. Add lime juice, extravirgin olive oil, and salt and pepper to taste. Serve with seared chicken or fish.

—Ronne Day

Spicy Sear-Roasted Broccoli

Toss broccoli florets with olive oil, Sriracha, salt, and pepper. Sear on one side in a hot castiron skillet or griddle. Flip the florets, transfer the skillet or griddle to a hot oven, and roast until just tender. Finish with a squeeze of lemon juice.

—Jennifer Armentrout

Quick Pumpkin Curry

Sauté chopped onion, garlic, and ginger in oil until lightly browned. Stir in curry powder, cumin, and cayenne. Add a can each of pure pumpkin purée and coconut milk. Simmer. Add shrimp or sliced chicken breast and simmer to cook through. Serve over rice or noodles, and garnish with fresh cilantro.

—Joanne Smart

Slice fresh figs in half lengthwise, and poach in Merlot, honey, and lemon until the liquid is slightly reduced. Cool briefly, top with minced candied ginger, and serve over ice cream or yogurt.

—Diana Andrews

Roasted Red Cabbage Steaks

Cut a head of red cabbage vertically into slices, making sure each slice is held together at the stem. Put the slices on a parchment-lined baking sheet, brush both sides with olive oil, and sprinkle with whole cumin seeds, salt, and pepper. Roast, flipping once, until tender and browned at the edges. Drizzle with pomegranate molasses and serve.

—Sarah Breckenridge

Herb-Roasted Fingerling Potatoes and Garlic

Separate garlic into cloves, but don’t peel. Combine in a roasting pan with fingerling potatoes, chopped fresh thyme and rosemary, olive oil, and salt and pepper to taste. Roast until the potatoes are tender. Peel and serve the garlic along with the potatoes.

—Kathy Kingsley ONE READER’S SEASONAL SPECIALTY

Hazelnut Apple Crumble In a casserole dish, toss cut-up apples with lemon juice and a handful of brown sugar. Mash together butter, brown sugar,, and some flour, then add chopped hazelnuts; sprinkle on top of the apples.. Bake until bubbly. Serve warm with whipped cream, ice cream, or sour cream. —Stacey Fritz, Fairbanks, Alaska

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FINE COOKING • OCT/NOV 2016

P h o t o g r a p h s by S c o t t P h i l l i p s , exc e p t b o t t o m l e f t c o u r t e s y o f S t a c ey Fr i t z

3 WAYS WITH...

Brussels Sprouts Fresh and crisp or meltingly tender, these tiny cabbages are a favorite fall vegetable. R E C I P E S B Y R O N N E D AY

Brussels sprouts have gone from traditional to trendy over the past several years, thanks in part to chefs who have embraced the petite cabbages. You can now find them shaved, caramelized, pickled, and fried. Here are three inventive ways to enjoy them in a salad, a side, and a main course.

A DV E RT I S E M E N T

PANS NEEDED FOR RECIPES

Cookware provided by All-Clad

12-inch skillet

12-inch nonstick skillet

6-quart pot

8-inch skillet

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hot and sour brussels sprouts A bit of maple syrup harmonizes with hot red pepper flakes and tangy sherry vinegar in these flavorful sprouts. Be sure to cut the sprouts to roughly the same size so that they’ll cook evenly. Serve them with beef to match the big flavor. Serves 4 3 Tbs. sherry vinegar 1 Tbs. pure maple syrup Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 Tbs. olive oil 1½ lb. Brussels sprouts, small sprouts left whole, larger ones halved or quartered 1 large sprig fresh thyme ½ tsp. crushed red pepper flakes 1 Tbs. chopped garlic 2 scallions, thinly sliced

In a small bowl, whisk the vinegar, syrup, ½ tsp. salt, and ¼ tsp. pepper. Heat a 12-inch heavy-duty skillet over medium-high heat. Add the oil and heat until shimmering. Add the sprouts, thyme, and pepper flakes, and cook without stirring until one side is browned, 3 to 4 minutes. Stir once and cook, undisturbed, until the other side is browned, 3 to 4 minutes. Add 1”3 cup water, cover, and steam until just tender, 1½ to 2 minutes. Add the garlic and cook until fragrant, about 15 seconds. Lower the heat to medium, pour the vinegar mixture over the sprouts and cook, stirring constantly, until the liquid reduces to a glaze, 3 to 5 minutes. Remove the thyme sprig, and season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve topped with the scallions.

Stalk Tip You sometimes see Brussels sprouts sold on the stalk. While this looks dramatic, it doesn’t necessarily mean the sprouts are any fresher, and in fact, twisting each individual sprout off the stalk can be time-consuming. Underneath their woody skin, the stalks themselves are edible and taste similar to broccoli stems. Try roasting them, or use them to flavor vegetable broth.

A DV E RT I S E M E N T

TIP When browning Brussels sprouts, it’s important to use a heavy-duty skillet for even heat conduction. Heat the pan before adding the oil. Then swirl in the oil and wait until it, too, is hot before adding the sprouts.

Photographs by Scott Phillips; food styling by Ronne Day

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roasted brussels sprouts and mushroom frittata Mushrooms make this vegetarian main course taste rich and almost meaty, while the roasted sprouts add a sweet, caramelized flavor. Serve it to a crowd, or have leftovers for breakfast. Serves 6 to 8

4 oz. coarsely grated Gruyère (about 2 cups) 2 Tbs. unsalted butter ¼ cup finely chopped shallot 1 tsp. finely chopped fresh rosemary 2 tsp. sherry vinegar ¼ cup grated carrot Hot sauce, for serving

1¼ lb. Brussels sprouts, shredded in a food processor or thinly sliced by hand 10 oz. fresh mushrooms, preferably a mix, coarsely chopped 3 Tbs. olive oil Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 8 large eggs 6 oz. coarsely grated fontina (about 3 cups)

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 450°F. On a large rimmed baking sheet, toss the sprouts and mushrooms with the oil, ¾ tsp. salt, and ¼ tsp. pepper. Roast, tossing with tongs every few minutes, until the vegetables are browned in places, 10 to 12 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Set aside. In a medium bowl, beat the eggs. Add the cheeses.

Melt the butter in a 12-inch ovenproof nonstick skillet over medium heat. Add the shallot and rosemary, and cook until golden brown, 2 to 3 minutes. Meanwhile, in a small bowl, combine the vinegar with 1 Tbs. water. Pour it into the pan, and then add the carrot. Cook, stirring, for another minute, and remove from the heat. Add the sprouts and mushrooms, and stir to combine. Pour the egg mixture into the skillet, redistributing the vegetables and cheeses evenly with a fork, transfer to the oven, and bake until the eggs are set, about 12 minutes. Let rest briefly, slide out of the skillet, slice into wedges, and serve with the hot sauce.

TIP The best way to serve a frittata is to slide it out of the pan and onto a cutting board. For easy release of the frittata, use a heavy-duty nonstick skillet. Also, be sure to select a skillet with an ovenproof handle.

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shredded brussels sprouts salad with oranges, toasted walnuts, and crisp prosciutto Sweet oranges balance the sprouts’ pleasantly bitter edge in this versatile side dish. If you have it on hand, white balsamic vinegar is a nice option because it won’t discolor the sprouts. Serves 6 to 8 ½ Tbs. olive oil 2 oz. thinly sliced prosciutto, cut into ½-inch strips 2 Tbs. toasted walnut oil 2 Tbs. balsamic vinegar, preferably white 1 tsp. Dijon mustard Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 lb. Brussels sprouts, shredded in a food processor or thinly sliced by hand 2 medium oranges, cut into segments, each segment halved crosswise

How to Buy Sprouts Worth Shouting About

3 Tbs. finely chopped toasted walnuts 1 Tbs. finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

In a small skillet, heat the olive oil over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add the prosciutto and cook until crisp, about 5 minutes, then transfer to a paper-towellined plate to cool. In a small bowl, whisk the walnut oil, vinegar, mustard, ½ tsp. salt, and ½ tsp. pepper.

Bring a large pot of well-salted water to a boil. Add the sprouts and blanch until crisp-tender, about 2 minutes. Drain and pat dry with paper towels. Transfer to a large bowl, and cool to room temperature. Add the orange segments, nuts, and parsley, and gently toss with the vinaigrette. Transfer to a serving bowl, crumble the prosciutto over the top, and serve.

A DV E RT I S E M E N T

TIP Blanching Brussels sprouts— submerging them briefly in salted boiling water— will soften them a bit and brighten their color while leaving them crisp and fresh tasting, perfect for salads.

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FINE COOKING • OCT/NOV 2016

Brussels sprouts season starts around the end of September after the first frost (which concentrates the sugar in the plants to make the sprouts sweeter and more flavorful) and lasts through February. When buying sprouts, look for those that are tight and firm, the rounder the better; oblong ones tend to be more stemmy. Smaller ones will be slightly sweeter. Brussels sprouts can be refrigerated for up to two weeks.

m a k e i t to n i g h t Fresh and easy weeknight cooking

Pasta with Sausage and Kale, p. 32

f i n e c o o k i n g .c o m

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TIP

pasta with sausage and kale

nd For easier a cuts, se ci re p more bacon for freeze raw s before 15 minute slicing, r chopping o s it less which makery. slippe

As with broccoli raab, the earthy, somewhat bitter flavor of kale makes it a good match for sausage in a pasta perfect for a cold autumn night. Serves 4 to 6 Kosher salt

2 Tbs. olive oil; more for serving



2 small shallots, thinly sliced lengthwise

½ lb. sweet Italian sausage, casings removed

1 lb. kale, tough stems removed, leaves roughly chopped

½ tsp. crushed red pepper flakes; more to taste

baked cod with tomato-bacon “jam” Sweet tomatoes get cooked until they break down, creating a jammy sweet-and-sour sauce that’s made even better with bacon. Brushing the fish with a lemon-mustard mixture before cooking is an easy way to boost its flavor. Serves 4

Freshly ground black pepper





1 lb. short, flat pasta, such as farfalle or sagnarelli (see p. 96)

½ large red onion, chopped (about 5 oz.)



2 oz. Parmigiano-Reggiano, finely grated (about 1 cup); more for serving

Lemon wedges, for serving

Bring a large pot of well-salted water to a boil. Meanwhile, heat 1 Tbs. of the olive oil in a 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat. Add the shallots and cook, stirring occasionally, until starting to soften, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the sausage and cook, breaking it up with a wooden spoon, until browned, 3 to 4 minutes. Add the kale and pepper flakes, and season with salt and pepper. Cook, tossing occasionally, until the sausage is cooked through and the kale is tender, 5 to 7 minutes. Meanwhile, boil the pasta according to package directions for al dente. Reserve ½ cup of the cooking water, and drain the pasta. Add the pasta, the reserved water, and the remaining 1 Tbs. olive oil to the skillet, and toss. Serve topped with the cheese and a drizzle of olive oil, with the lemon wedges and more cheese on the side. —Erica Clark Pair With: SANGIOVESE  This rustic wine is more likely to taste like tomatoes and herbs than fruits and flowers, which means it’ll work better with the slight bitterness of the kale.

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fine cooking • oct/nov 2016

4 slices thick-cut bacon, chopped



1 pint cherry or grape tomatoes, halved



1 Tbs. apple cider vinegar



1 Tbs. light brown sugar



2 Tbs. Dijon mustard



1 Tbs. lemon juice



4 6-oz. skinless cod or haddock fillets, at least 1 inch thick

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 425°F. Line a large rimmed baking sheet with foil. Cook the bacon in a 12-inch skillet over medium heat until crisp, 10 to 12 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the bacon to a paper-towel-lined plate. Pour off all but 2 Tbs. of the bacon fat from the skillet. Add the onion to the skillet, and cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until starting to soften, about 3 minutes. Add the tomatoes, vinegar, and sugar, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the tomatoes break down, about 10 minutes. Stir in the cooked bacon. Meanwhile, whisk the mustard and lemon juice in a small bowl. Pat the fish dry with paper towels and arrange on the prepared baking sheet. Brush with the mustard-lemon mixture, and season lightly with salt and pepper. Bake the fish until just opaque in the center, 10 to 12 minutes. Spoon some of the tomato-bacon jam onto each plate, top with the fish, and serve. —Erica Clark Pair With: CHARDONNAY  Chardonnay is always good with Dijon mustard. But since the jam adds both brightness and meatiness to the dish, reach for a bigger, creamier California-style Chardonnay.

Photographs by Scott Phillips; food styling by Ronne Day

three speedy sides cheesy skillet potatoes

Serves 4 to 6

Peel and thinly slice 1½ lb. Yukon Gold potatoes. Season with ½ tsp. kosher salt and ¼ tsp. freshly ground black pepper. Heat 1½ Tbs. olive oil in a 12-inch cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat. Add the potatoes and cook, undisturbed, until just starting to brown, about 5 minutes. Lower the heat to medium and gently flip the potatoes every 2 minutes until about half of the slices are crisped and browned, another 8 to 10 minutes. Top with 2 oz. coarsely grated sharp Cheddar and 2 oz. coarsely grated raclette or Emmentaler. Cover, remove from the heat, and let sit until the cheese melts, 2 to 2½ minutes. Sprinkle with 1 Tbs. thinly sliced fresh chives, and season to taste with kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper. Serve with the baked cod at left or with roast lamb or pork chops. —Ronne Day

broiled mushrooms with goat cheese and thyme Serves 4 to 6 Position a rack 6 to 8 inches from the broiler element and heat the broiler. Heat 2 Tbs. olive oil in a 12-inch oven-safe skillet over medium heat. Add 1 lb. trimmed and sliced mixed mushrooms, and cook, stirring only occasionally, until beginning to brown, 12 to 15 minutes. Season with ¼ tsp. kosher salt, and remove from the heat. Cut a 4-oz. log of goat cheese into 6 to 8 slices and arrange on top of the mushrooms. Sprinkle with 2 tsp. chopped fresh thyme and some freshly ground black pepper. Drizzle with 1 Tbs. olive oil. Broil until the cheese just starts to brown, 7 to 9 minutes. Serve with seared steak or roast chicken. —Erica Clark

sautéed baby bok choy with caraway Serves 4

In a 12-inch skillet, cook 3 oz. chopped bacon over medium-high heat until crisp, 3 to 4 minutes. Add ½ tsp. caraway seeds and cook for another 15 seconds. Lower the heat to medium, and add 1 lb. sliced (½ inch crosswise) baby bok choy, ½ tsp. kosher salt, and ½ tsp. freshly ground black pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, until tender and browned in spots, 4 to 5 minutes. Add 2 tsp. cider vinegar, and cook until almost evaporated. Serve with pork loin or sausages. —Ronne Day

Photographs by Scott Phillips; food styling by Ronne Day

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pork chops with thyme-scented apples over cheddar polenta Pork and apple juices mingle beautifully and make a lovely sauce for the chops and cheesy polenta. Serves 4

3 cups whole milk

Kosher salt

1 cup polenta (cornmeal)



3 oz. sharp Cheddar, coarsely grated (about 1 cup)

Freshly ground black pepper

2 Tbs. unsalted butter



4 1-inch-thick boneless centercut pork chops (about 1½ lb.)



1 cup apple cider



2 tart apples, cored and sliced into 16 wedges each



1 tsp. chopped fresh thyme leaves

Light brown sugar

In a 3-quart saucepan, bring the milk and a large pinch of salt to a simmer over medium heat. Slowly whisk in the polenta, reduce the heat to medium low, and cook, stirring often, for about 5 minutes. Stir in 1 cup water and cook, stirring occasionally, until the polenta

is thick and creamy, 10 to 12 minutes. Remove from the heat, stir in the cheese, and season to taste with salt and pepper. Meanwhile, melt the butter in a 12-inch skillet over mediumhigh heat. Season the pork with salt and cook, flipping once, until an instant-read thermometer inserted in a chop close to, but not touching, the bone registers 140°F, about 8 minutes total. Transfer to a plate and keep warm. Add the apple cider, apples, and thyme to the skillet and cook, stirring occasionally, until the apples begin to soften, about 8 minutes. Add brown sugar to taste. Serve the apples and sauce over the pork chops and polenta. —Erica Clark Pair With: GEWÜRZTRAMINER  Riesling is the usual pairing with pork and apples, but since this dish includes Cheddar polenta, reach for richer Gewürztraminer.

TIP

For even creamier polenta, replace 1 cup of the milk with heavy cream.

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fine cooking • oct/nov 2016

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ham and mushroom quesadilla Quesadillas don’t always need to feature Mexican ingredients. The flavors in this one are more European than south of the border. Sour cream? Sure. Salsa? Nah. Serves 4

1 Tbs. olive oil; more as needed



4 oz. cremini mushrooms, chopped (about 11/2 cups)

1/4 cup finely chopped sweet onion

4 oz. ham steak, cut into small dice (about 1 cup)

1/3 cup coarsely chopped jarred roasted red peppers 1/4 cup finely chopped green bell pepper

4 oz. Monterey Jack, coarsely grated (about 11/2 cups)



4 oz. aged Gruyère, coarsely grated (about 11/2 cups)



4 8-inch flour tortillas

Sour cream, for serving

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 200°F. Heat the oil in a 10-inch skillet over medium-high heat.

Add the mushrooms and onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until beginning to brown, 5 to 6 minutes. Add the ham, and red and green peppers, and continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until browned, 2 to 3 minutes. Remove from the heat. Heat a 12-inch cast-iron skillet over medium-low heat. Mix the cheeses together and divide into four portions. Divide the ham mixture into four portions. Lightly oil the skillet. Place a tortilla in the skillet and sprinkle one half with one portion each of the cheese and ham mixtures. Fold the other half of the tortilla over the filling, gently pressing down with a spatula. Cook, flipping once, until golden brown on both sides, 4 to 5 minutes total. Keep warm in the oven. Repeat with the remaining tortillas and filling, oiling the skillet between each quesadilla. Serve with the sour cream. —Ronne Day Pair With: DOPPELBOCK  Since this is an Old Worldinfluenced quesadilla, why not go with an Old World beer? This one is especially good with the Gruyère— nutty, creamy, earthy, mmmm.

farro, chicken, and grape salad Nutty and pleasantly chewy, farro is an ancient variety of wheat usually associated with Mediterranean cooking, especially Italian. In this one-bowl meal, a dressing of mirin and sesame oil gives the farro and chicken an Asian accent. Serves 4 to 6

2 cups pearled farro, rinsed and drained

Kosher salt

3 Tbs. mirin



3 Tbs. fresh lemon juice



2 Tbs. Asian (toasted) sesame oil

1½ Tbs. minced jalapeño Freshly ground black pepper

1 lb. boneless, skinless chicken breasts

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fine cooking • oct/nov 2016



1 Tbs. vegetable or canola oil

1½ cups green seedless grapes, halved 1½ cups small-diced seedless cucumber 1½ Tbs. chopped fresh dill

In a 4-quart saucepan, combine the farro with enough water to cover. Add 1/2 tsp. salt and bring to a boil. Reduce to a simmer, cover, and cook until the farro is tender but slightly chewy, 18 to 20 minutes. Drain. Meanwhile, in a large bowl, combine the mirin, lemon juice, sesame oil, jalapeño, 1½ tsp. salt, and ½ tsp. pepper. Season the chicken with salt and pepper. In a 12-inch skillet, heat the vegetable oil on medium-high heat. Add the chicken and cook, flipping

once, until brown on both sides and just cooked through, 8 to 12 minutes total. Let rest for 5 minutes, then cut into ½-inch cubes. Add the chicken and any accumulated juice, the farro, grapes, cucumber, and dill to the vinaigrette. Toss to combine. Season to taste with salt and pepper and serve. —Ronne Day

Pair With: HARD CIDER  A cider that’s not too sweet feels fallish like the grapes, hearty like the farro, and refreshing like the lemon and cucumber.

Shall we go sweet? Nothing Else Tastes Like

OR SHALL WE GO SPICY? Nothing Else Tastes Like

© 2016 Kraft Foods

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grilled skirt steak with adobo butter

“Knife Art”

– FINE COOKING Test Kitchen

This spicy adobo butter is so good that it’s hard to believe it’s made in about a minute with just a few ingredients. Though any steak cut would benefit from it, skirt steak’s textured surface cradles the melted butter, delivering it with every bite. Serves 4 to 6 1 7-oz. can chipotles in adobo sauce 1½ oz. (3 Tbs.) unsalted butter, softened 1 Tbs. finely chopped fresh cilantro Kosher salt 1½ lb. skirt steak, trimmed and halved crosswise 1 Tbs. canola or vegetable oil 2 limes, cut into wedges

Prepare a medium-high (400°F to 475°F) gas or charcoal grill fire. In a blender or small food processor, purée the chiles with their sauce. In a small bowl and using a fork, mash the

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FINE COOKING • OCT/NOV 2016

butter with 1 Tbs. of the purée, the cilantro, and ½ tsp. salt until combined. Rub the steak all over with the oil and another 1 Tbs. of the chipotle purée (freeze the rest for future use). Season all over with 1 tsp. salt. Grill the steak, flipping once, until cooked to your liking, 5 to 8 minutes for medium rare (130°F). Transfer to a platter, top with about half of the butter, tent with foil, and let rest for 5 minutes. Transfer the steak to a cutting board (do not clean the platter), and thinly slice it across the grain. Return the steak and any juice to the platter and serve topped with the remaining butter and the lime wedges on the side. —Liz Pearson Pair With: GARNACHA Spain’s Grenache is big enough for steak, but with plenty of juicy berry flavors to complement the fruitiness of the chiles—and their heat.

food science

Roast Your Turkey Like a Pro 16 tips from our science experts to help you get the most from your holiday bird B y D av i d J o a c h i m a n d A n d r e w S c h l o ss

Craving a Thanksgiving turkey with juicy, tender meat and crisp, perfectly bronzed skin? Science can help. That’s because there’s more to cooking the bird than simply tossing it in the oven: What you buy, how it’s prepared, the roasting method and temperature, and the resting process all factor into the final (delicious) result. Read on to learn the principles behind roasting a turkey right.

Shopping

Avoid frozen birds. Freezing creates ice crystals that expand and puncture the meat’s cells. The meat can then leak as much as 10% of the bird’s moisture as it cooks. Fresh turkey meat stays juicier when cooked.

fat and contain fewer flavorful compounds.) Pasture-raised turkeys tend to get more exercise than those raised in the crowded pens of concentrated animal-feeding operations, so they develop more flavor. Consider heritage breeds. Most turkeys sold in the U.S. are Broad Breasted White turkeys, which have been bred to produce about 70% mild-tasting white breast meat. These top-heavy turkeys are too ungainly to fly or reproduce naturally. On the other hand, heritage breeds, like Bourbon Red and Royal Palm, are closer to wild turkeys and have richer, gamier-tasting meat. Skip self-basting birds. Broad Breasted White turkeys are often “enhanced” or injected with salt water (and “other approved substances,” according to the USDA) to mitigate the meat’s dryness and lack of flavor. While these “self-basting” birds are juicy, they still taste very mild. For more flavor as well as juiciness, start with a flavorful “unenhanced” turkey, and then brine it yourself (see below).

Prepping

Go for pasture-raised. Much of a turkey’s flavor develops when its muscles are exercised. Muscles in the wings, thighs, and drumsticks are fueled by fat, and as these muscles exercise, their dark-meat flavor develops from aromatic compounds in the fat and from two proteins, myoglobin and cytochromes. (Less exercised breast meat tastes milder primarily because these muscles are fueled by glycogen instead of

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fine cooking • oct/nov 2016

If you do buy a frozen bird, thaw it safely. A refrigerator set no higher than 40°F is the safest place, because foods that spoil easily should be kept out of the “danger zone” of 40°F to 140°F, where harmful bacteria tend to thrive. This refrigerator method can take up to six hours per pound, so a 16-lb. turkey could take four days to thaw. If you’re pressed for time, you can safely thaw

a frozen turkey in cold water, which transfers heat more efficiently than the cold air of a refrigerator. This method cuts thawing time to about ½ hour per pound, or eight to ten hours for a 16-lb. turkey. Completely submerge the wrapped turkey in cold tap water and replace the cold water every 30 to 45 minutes to maintain a safe temperature.

Brine for juiciness. Turkey meat contains only 68% moisture and dries out easily. Brining (soaking in salt water) can increase the moisture content of cooked turkey meat by up to 10%. Salt in the brine breaks down and loosens protein in the meat, so when the turkey cooks and firms up, it squeezes out less moisture, which makes the cooked meat taste juicier. A typical ratio for a brine is 2 Tbs. kosher salt in 2½ cups water for every pound of turkey. Completely submerge the turkey in the brine and refrigerate for 16 to 18 hours. Don’t brine all birds. Turkeys labeled “kosher,” “enhanced,” or “self-basting” have already been brined and do not need further brining.

I l l u s t r a t i o n s b y Fe l i c i t a S a l a

THE SECRET INGREDIENT IS

For over 100 years, Sun-Maid’s natural sweetness has elevated all kinds of dishes—everything from stew to sauces. So the next time you’re getting creative in the kitchen, #RememberRaisins

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Find hundreds of other raisin-powered recipes at SUNMAID.COM/RECIPES

Roasting

Cook the stuffing safely. Stuffing inside the bird has to reach 160°F to be safe to eat, but by that point, the bird’s breast meat will be overcooked and dry. So cook the stuffing in a separate pan, and spoon some turkey drippings over it for flavor. If you must serve a stuffed bird, cook the stuffing and then spoon it loosely into the turkey toward the end of roasting. Roast the turkey upside down. Typically, turkey breast meat finishes cooking before the leg meat. To solve this doneness discrepancy, start roasting your turkey breast side down at 450°F to transfer maximum heat directly to the legs and thighs while protecting the breast. After 45 minutes, lower the heat to 300°F. For the last hour of roasting (estimating that your turkey needs about 20 minutes per pound), flip the turkey breast side up. Thirty minutes before the turkey’s done, raise the heat to 375°F and brush the exposed skin with oil to crisp it.

ference by lowering the oven temperature rather than covering the bird. Use a rack. Roasting on a rack set in a rimmed baking sheet or shallow roasting pan lifts the turkey off the pan, encouraging air circulation around the bird and speeding up cooking. A rack also keeps the bottom skin crisper by raising it above the juice in the pan. Baste for color. Turkey skin browns because of a series of reactions between sugars and proteins, known as Maillard reactions. These begin when a free sugar connects with an amino acid in meat or skin protein. They form an unstable structure that produces hundreds of flavorful and colorful byproducts when exposed to high heat. Adding a little sugar—say, basting the skin periodically with pan juice mixed with dark agave or brown sugar—encourages Maillard browning. Contrary to popular opinion, basting doesn’t keep turkey meat from drying out (this is solely a function of overcooking), nor does it keep the skin from burning. Use high heat for crisp skin. Turkey skin is loaded with collagen, a protein that turns gelatinous when wet. Eliminating moisture dehydrates the collagen, turning it crackling crisp. For super-crisp skin, crank the heat up for the last 30 minutes of roasting and brush with oil, which also promotes crispness by speeding the heat transfer from the oven to the turkey skin.

Don’t cover. Covering the turkey with foil puts a shield between the heat radiating from the oven walls and the bird, slowing down heat transference from the oven. It also traps moisture around the skin, diminishing surface drying, and thereby decreasing browning and crisping. And while some people believe that a cover keeps the meat moist, it actually does the opposite. Trapping moisture under a cover will steam the meat rather than roast it; the moist heat denatures protein more thoroughly than dry heat, causing it to tighten and leach juice. If the skin is getting too dark before the turkey is done, it’s better to slow down heat trans-

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Degrease by cooling the pan drippings. Stir a few ice cubes into the drippings to cool them down and increase the amount of liquid. Because fat and water molecules are incompatible, and because fats have less surface tension than water, the fatty parts of the drippings will float on top of the watery meat juices. The ice cools the turkey fat, solidifying it, so that you can simply lift it off the liquid. Freezing the drippings for about 30 minutes will achieve the same effect. Thicken gravy with pure starch. Wheat flour is a combination of about 75% starch and 10% protein by weight (the remainder is a mixture of moisture and plant fiber). When making gravy, only the starch in the

Finishing

Rest for juiciness and easier carving. Heat makes the meat’s protein contract, forcing its moisture toward the center of the turkey. If sliced immediately, the juice runs readily from the center. Resting allows the juice at the center to redistribute more evenly throughout the meat. Also, as the turkey roasts, collagen in its connective tissue melts, tenderizing the meat. Letting the turkey cool for at least 15 minutes before carving gives the collagen a chance to cool and firm up, which allows you to cut thinner slices that hold their shape.

flour acts as a thickener. To get more thickening power with less added thickener, use a pure starch like cornstarch, potato starch, tapioca, or rice starch instead of flour. One teaspoon of pure starch will thicken the same amount of liquid as 1 Tbs. of flour. Starch-thickened gravy is clearer and has deeper color than flour-thickened gravy; the protein in flour is what makes gravy opaque and pale. David Joachim and Andrew Schloss are the authors of the award-winning reference book The Science of Good Food.

Crab Cakes with Curried Mango Sauce

For this recipe and more, visit mahatmarice.com or carolinarice.com

©2016 Riviana Foods Inc.

Crab Cakes Go Gourmet!

It tastes like you actually know what you’re doing. Thanks to the outstanding quality of GOYA® Black Beans, your recipes will always be exquisite, even when you’re improvising a bit. Because you can trust that each U.S. #1 Grade bean* will be whole, plump and delicious from the first bite to the last. GOYA® Black Beans, the perfect ingredient for Real-Life Chefs

Quinoa and Black Bean Chili Serves 6 | Prep time: 20 min. | Total time: 40 min.

Ingredients cup GOYA® Organic Quinoa tbsp. GOYA® Extra Virgin Olive Oil large onion, chopped tbsp. GOYA® Minced Garlic tbsp. chili powder tbsp. GOYA® Ground Cumin tsp. GOYA® Oregano Leaves can (8 oz.) GOYA® Tomato Sauce cans (15.5 oz. each) GOYA® Black Beans, drained and rinsed

½ large green bell pepper, seeded and diced ½ large red bell pepper, seeded and diced 1 tbsp. GOYA® Chipotle Peppers in Adobo Sauce, finely chopped 1 can (15.5 oz.) GOYA® Whole Kernel Golden Corn, drained and rinsed Fresh cilantro, chopped

For step-by-step preparation instructions, visit goya.com/chili

*As defined by the USDA, when Mother Nature permits.

©2016 Goya Foods, Inc.

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o n lo c at i o n

In Moveable Feast with Fine Cooking, our PBS TV show now in its fourth season, host Pete Evans travels America, creating a feast with local chefs and artisans in every episode.

Chef Sean Brock cooking up a batch of rye berries at his Charleston restaurant, McCrady’s.

Southern Roots Revisited This Lowcountry feast nods to the old while embracing the new. It’s no secret that Charleston, S.C., has become a notable food destination, grabbing the kind of national attention usually given to larger cities, such as San Francisco or Boston. The Holy City, with a population of about 130,000, is clearly redefining itself on the culinary map, with restaurants opening at lightning speed, vibrant farmers’ markets

filled with local food artisans, bakers, and growers, small-batch distilleries and breweries popping up, and an exploding food truck scene. One of the driving forces in Charleston’s recent food revolution is James Beard Award-winning chef Sean Brock, the man behind the restaurants Husk and McCrady’s, and a guest chef on one of our

Photographs except where noted by Mark Boughton

Moveable Feast episodes this season. Sean is known for sourcing heritage breeds and using heirloom Southern ingredients in his cooking, like James Island red corn in his signature shrimp and grits and cornbread. He honors the Lowcountry’s diverse cooking styles with a reverence and a level of research that’s not often seen.

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herb salad with pistachios and raisins Sesame tahini adds a nutty, earthy flavor to the salad. Serves 4 to 6 ½ cup golden raisins 1/3 cup tahini

5 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil



4 Tbs. fresh lemon juice; more to taste

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper ¾ cup packed fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves ¼ cup sliced fresh chives ¼ cup packed fresh cilantro leaves ¼ cup coarsely chopped fresh dill ¼ cup coarsely chopped fennel fronds ¼ cup fresh mint leaves ¼ cup coarsely chopped fresh tarragon

3 medium radishes, cut into matchsticks

¼ cup pistachios, lightly toasted

Soak the raisins in a small bowl of warm water for 30 minutes; drain and set aside. In another small bowl, whisk the tahini, 3 Tbs. of the olive oil, 3 Tbs. of the lemon juice, 1 Tbs. water, ½ tsp. salt, and ¼ tsp. pepper. Adjust the seasoning to taste, adding more water by the tablespoon if the mixture is too thick. Spread the mixture on the bottom of a serving platter or individual salad plates. In a large bowl, toss the parsley, chives, cilantro, dill, fennel, mint, and tarragon with the remaining 2 Tbs. oil and 1 Tbs. lemon juice, ½ tsp. salt, and ¼ tsp. pepper. Adjust the seasoning, if necessary. Top the tahini with the herb mixture and then the radishes, pistachios, sesame seeds, and raisins, and serve. —Pete Evans

Above, top: Sean and chef B.J. Dennis enjoy the chance to cook together. Above, bottom: Guests toast with a cocktail before the feast begins.

For this Charleston feast, Sean is joined by host Pete Evans and caterer and personal chef Benjamin “B.J.” Dennis. Born and raised in Charleston, B.J. is renowned for his pop-up dinners, where his food pays homage to the African roots of the Lowcountry’s Gullah Geechee culture. B.J. and Sean are good friends, bonding over a common dedication to preserving Southern foodways and focusing on in-season, locally sourced vegetables, meats, and seafood; their mutual admiration is evident. As guests gather at McCrady’s, housed in a building with over two centuries of history in Charleston (George Washington

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1 Tbs. toasted sesame seeds

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Recipe photographs by Scott Phillips; food styling by Ronne Day

lowcountry beef stew In Gullah cooking, adding seafood to a meat stew is not unusual, as fish and shellfish are so abundant. Here, beef brisket and short ribs are combined with calamari for an unexpected and pleasant taste and texture. Serve over grits or polenta. Serves 8

3 Tbs. olive oil; more as needed



2 lb. beef brisket, trimmed and cut into 11/2-inch pieces

11/2 lb. boneless beef short ribs, trimmed and cut into 11/2-inch pieces Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

8 large cloves garlic, grated



2 large sweet onions, coarsely chopped (about 31/4 cups)



1 large jalapeño, seeded and finely chopped

¼ cup tomato paste

4 large tomatoes, peeled, cored, and roughly chopped (about 51/2 cups)



1 28-oz. can whole peeled tomatoes, undrained and crushed by hand



1 cup unsalted beef stock



4 sprigs fresh thyme



1 lb. calamari, cut into ¾-inch rings (optional)



1 large green bell pepper, coarsely chopped (about 11/2 cups)

Heat the oil in a 7-quart Dutch oven or other large heavy-duty pot over mediumhigh heat. Pat the brisket and ribs dry, and season with salt and pepper. Brown the meat in batches, adjusting the heat and adding more oil as necessary; each batch should take 8 to 10 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the brisket and rib meat to separate plates. Reduce the heat to medium. Add the garlic, 2/3 of the chopped onions, and the jalapeño, and cook, stirring and scraping up the browned bits from the bottom of the pot with a wooden spoon, until beginning to soften, about 5 minutes. Add the tomato paste and cook, stirring often, for

3 minutes. Stir in the fresh and canned tomatoes, stock, and thyme. Return the brisket with any accumulated juice to the pot. Add the calamari, if using. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat, cover, and simmer for 45 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the rib meat and any accumulated juice and continue to simmer, covered, until the meat is nearly tender, about 1 hour. Add the remaining onion, the bell pepper, 1 tsp. salt, and ½ tsp. pepper, and cook, covered, until the meat and calamari are very tender, 45 to 60 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the meat from the pot to a large bowl. If necessary, skim any fat from the surface of the liquid. Increase the heat to medium high and reduce the liquid to about 2 2/3 cups. Return the meat to the pot, and gently stir until well coated with the sauce. —B.J. Dennis

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rye berry succotash with mixed vegetables Rye berries add a nutty flavor and slightly chewy texture to this dish. For more information about this grain, see p. 96. Serves 6 to 8 Kosher salt

2 oz. green or wax beans



3 oz. Romanesca or Broccoflower



1 cup fresh or frozen fava beans (5 oz.)



2 Tbs. unsalted butter

½ red onion, cut into 1/4-inch-thick slices ½ cup vegetable broth; more as needed

2 oz. summer squash, cut into ½-inch dice (about ½ cup)



2 oz. zucchini, cut into ½-inch dice (about ½ cup)

Freshly ground black pepper

2 cups cooked rye berries, drained and rinsed

¼ cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

2 Tbs. fresh lemon juice; more to taste

½ cup aged Cheddar, coarsely grated

3 squash blossoms, thinly sliced lengthwise (optional)

Bring a 4-quart pot of salted water to a boil. Fill a large bowl with ice water. Blanch the green beans in the boiling water until just tender, about 1 minute. Transfer to the ice water with a slotted spoon, then drain well. Blanch the Romanesca until just tender, 1 to 11/2 minutes. Transfer to

the ice water and then drain. Blanch the fava beans for 1 to 11/2 minutes. Transfer to the ice water and then drain. Cut the green beans into 1/2inch pieces Cut the Romanesca into bite-size pieces. Peel and shuck the fava beans. Set aside. Melt the butter in a 12-inch skillet over medium-low heat, swirling the pan until brown bits begin to appear. Add the onion and cook, stirring often, until just softened, about 2 minutes. Increase the heat to medium, add the Romanesca florets, and cook, stirring occasionally, about 3 minutes. Add 2 to 3 Tbs. vegetable broth to keep the vegetables moist, continuing to add more broth as necessary to avoid scorching. Add the green and fava beans, and cook until warmed through, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the summer squash, zucchini, ½ tsp. salt, and ¼ tsp. pepper and continue to cook until warmed through, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the rye berries, breaking up any clumps with a wooden spoon. Stir to combine and heat through, adding more broth if necessary to keep the mixture moist. Remove the skillet from the heat, and stir in the parsley and lemon juice. Adjust the seasoning with more lemon juice, salt, and pepper, if desired. Transfer to a platter, top with the grated cheese and squash blossoms, if using, and serve. —Sean Brock

reportedly drank his fill of ale here), they are treated to an incredible array of dishes. Sean slowly roasts a heritage pig over glowing coals and serves it with stewed greens and his unique take on succotash made with rye berries. B.J. simmers a flavorful stew made with short ribs and brisket, which is perfect over classic grits. And Pete whips up a fresh herb salad, featuring pistachios, raisins, and a lemony tahini dressing. Add some cast-iron cornbread and a buttermilk pie topped with charred cream, and it’s a meal that acknowledges Southern tradition, but serves as a reminder that there’s a new breed of chefs manning the stoves.

Above, top: Sean and host Pete Evans serving their dishes to the guests. Above, bottom: The setting for this feast is McCrady’s, one of Sean’s Charleston restaurants. Find out when Moveable Feast is showing in your area at FineCooking. tv/schedule.

Cornbread and Beyond

Cornbread has always been a favorite of mine; I love how it straddles the fine line between bread and cake. I love it so much, in fact, that I’m always looking for new ways to enjoy it beyond the bread basket. For example, I’ve found that cornbread batter dolloped over fruit and baked makes for a fantastic cobbler. And leftover baked cornbread can be crumbled for a quiche crust, cut into cubes for stuffing, or sliced for French toast. No matter the form it will ultimately take, I always start with the same batter. It’s a bit sweet, but it still works in savory dishes. The unique part of my recipe is that I use sour cream instead of the traditional milk or buttermilk. It adds a tangy flavor element, and the higher fat content produces a rich, dense texture that crumbles delicately without being dry, but still holds its own in other uses: It can be soaked in custard for the French toast without falling apart, it takes on a beautifully crisp edge in the quiche and stuffing, yet it bakes up soft and pillowy on top of an apple cobbler. Of course, you can always eat it straight up, too, slathered with butter for pure cornbread pleasure. Stefani Pollack is the St. Louis-based blogger behind Cupcake Project (CupcakeProject.com).

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One simple batter, four delicious dishes B y S t e fa n i P o l l a c k

Southwestern Squash and Black Bean Quiche with Cornbread Crust, p. 55

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MaSteR ReciPe

CORNBREAD BATTER Bake this all-purpose batter to make a lightly sweet and moist yet dense cornbread, or use it as directed in the recipes that follow. Yields one 8x8-inch loaf; serves 9 6¾ oz. (11/2 cups) finely ground yellow cornmeal, such as Indian Head Old Fashioned Stone Ground 41/2 oz. (1 cup) unbleached all-purpose flour ��₃ cup granulated sugar 1/2 tsp. baking soda 1/2 tsp. table salt 2 large eggs, at room temperature, beaten 1 cup full-fat sour cream, at room temperature 4 oz. (1/2 cup) unsalted butter, melted; more for the pan, if baking MAKE THE BATTER

in a medium bowl, whisk together the cornmeal, flour, sugar, baking soda, and salt. fold in the eggs and sour cream with a silicone spatula until just combined. fold in the butter a little bit at a time until just combined. Use in one of the recipes that follow, or bake according to the directions below. IF BAKING CORNBREAD

Position a rack in the center of the oven, and heat the oven to 350°f. grease an 8x8-inch baking pan. Pour the batter into the pan, spread evenly with a small offset spatula or the back of a spoon, and bake until the top is just starting to brown and a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean, 25 to 30 minutes. cool on a rack until room temperature, about 20 minutes, then invert onto a plate, and serve or use in one of the recipes that follow.

TIP

Be sure to use finely ground cornmeal for the correct texture, especially if using the batter in the other recipes.

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southwestern squash and black bean quiche with cornbread crust Featuring a tender custard filling full of chile-spiced roasted squash and garlic plus lots of Cheddar, this quiche is guaranteed to please vegetarians and meat eaters alike. A layer of mashed black beans on the bottom keeps the cornbread crust from getting soggy. Serves 8 1 tsp. olive oil; more for the pie plate 1 Tbs. fresh lime juice 1 tsp. finely grated lime zest 1 tsp. packed brown sugar 1 tsp. ground coriander 1 tsp. ground cumin ¾ tsp. chipotle chile powder Kosher salt 8 oz. butternut squash, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch dice (about 11/2 cups) 4 medium cloves garlic 1 recipe Cornbread Batter (p. 54), baked 1¾ cups plus 2 Tbs. whole milk ¾ cup canned low-sodium black beans, rinsed and drained 4 large eggs 6 oz. extra-sharp Cheddar, grated (about 2 cups) 2 medium scallions, thinly sliced (about 1/4 cup)

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 375°f. grease a deep 9- or 10-inch pie plate (with a capacity of at least 6 cups) with olive oil. in a small bowl, combine the lime juice, lime zest, brown sugar, coriander, cumin, chipotle powder, and ¼ tsp. salt. in a medium bowl, coat the squash with the olive oil. Add the spice mixture and toss to coat. Spread in a single layer in a small roasting pan or on a rimmed baking sheet. Wrap the garlic cloves in aluminum foil. Roast until just tender, about 20 minutes for the squash and 40 minutes for the garlic. Squeeze the garlic out of the skins into a small bowl and mash with a fork. Lower the oven temperature to 350°f.

crumble about one-half of the cornbread into a medium bowl; you should have about 3 cups. (save the remaining cornbread for another use.) add ¼ cup plus 2 tbs. of the milk, and stir to combine. Press into the bottom and up the sides of the pie plate. Pierce the bottom several times with a fork. Bake until the crust is deep golden, about 15 minutes. in a small bowl, mash the beans and 1 tbs. water with a fork. season to taste with salt, and spread in the bottom of the crust, using wet fingers to press down evenly. Place the pie plate on a baking sheet. whisk the remaining 1½ cups milk and the eggs in a large bowl. fold in the roasted garlic, squash, cheese, scallions, and ½ tsp. salt. Pour into the crust. Bake until the top is browned and a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean, about 1 hour. cover the crust with aluminum foil or a pie shield if it starts getting dark. cool on a rack for at least 1 hour before slicing. Serve warm or at room temperature. Pair With: SPaRklinG RoSÉ Bubbles are great with eggs and cheese—they scrub your palate clean of the foods’ richness, readying you for another bite. Pink bubbles will complement the tex-Mex notes.

crumbled cornbread moistened with milk makes a tasty and unusual crust for quiche.

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cornbread stuffing with chorizo, wild mushrooms, and scallions Packed with the savory flavors of mushrooms, herbs, and spicy chorizo, this stuffing could easily steal the Thanksgiving show (sorry, turkey). Serves 6 to 8 2 oz. dried mushrooms, any variety 1 recipe Cornbread Batter, baked (p. 54) 1 lb. cured Spanish chorizo, cut into small dice 3 oz. (6 Tbs.) unsalted butter 2 cups finely chopped celery (about 5 ribs) ¾ cup thinly sliced scallions (about 4) 1/2 tsp. dried rosemary 1/2 tsp. dried sage 1/2 tsp. dried thyme Freshly ground black pepper 2 large eggs, beaten 1 cup lower-salt chicken broth

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 375°f.

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in a 2-quart saucepan, bring 3 cups of water to a boil. Remove from the heat, add the mushrooms, and soak until softened, 30 to 45 minutes. Use a slotted spoon to remove the mushrooms, and reserve the liquid. coarsely chop the mushrooms. cut the cornbread into ¾-inch cubes and spread on a rimmed baking sheet. Bake until the outsides are crisp, about 20 minutes. Let cool. reduce the oven temperature to 350°f. in a 12-inch skillet, brown the chorizo over medium heat, about 8 to 10 minutes. with a slotted spoon, transfer the chorizo to a small bowl, leaving the fat in the skillet. Add the butter to the skillet. When melted, add the celery and mushrooms, and cook, stirring frequently, until the celery is crisptender, about 7 minutes. add the scallions, rosemary, sage, thyme, and ¼ tsp. pepper.

cubed cornbread lends far more personality to a holiday stuffing than white bread ever can.

cook, stirring frequently, until most of the fat has been absorbed, 2 to 3 minutes. transfer to a large bowl. Add the cornbread, chorizo, eggs, chicken broth, and ¾ cup of the mushroom soaking liquid (strained, if necessary), and stir to combine. transfer to a 9x13-inch baking dish. bake, uncovered, until the top is browned, about 20 minutes. cover with foil and continue baking until the center is heated through (at least 140°f), about 10 minutes. serve hot.

maple-bacon cornbread french toast French toast made with cornbread is a bit denser and drier than what you’re probably used to, but that makes it all the better for soaking up lots of maple syrup. Plus, it’s far more flavorful than its white bread counterpart, especially when you add bacon to the batter. A candied-pecan and dried-cranberry topping seals the deal. Serves 4 FOR THE CORNBREAD Nonstick cooking spray 6 oz. bacon (6 to 8 slices) 1 recipe unbaked Cornbread Batter (p. 54) FOR THE FRENCH TOAST ��₃ cup whole milk 1/4 cup pure maple syrup; more heated for serving 4 large eggs 2 tsp. vanilla extract 2 tsp. ground cinnamon 1 tsp. freshly grated nutmeg 1/4 cup chopped candied pecans (store-bought, or see p. 92 for a recipe) 1/4 cup coarsely chopped dried cranberries BAKE THE CORNBREAD

Position a rack in the center of the oven, and heat the oven to 350°f. coat an 8x8-inch baking pan with cooking spray. in a 12-inch nonstick skillet, cook the bacon over medium heat until crisp, about 8 min-

utes. transfer to a paper-towel-lined plate to cool. Reserve the bacon fat. crumble the bacon and fold into the cornbread batter. transfer to the baking pan and spread the batter evenly. Bake until the top is just starting to brown and a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean, 25 to 30 minutes. let cool at room temperature for about 15 minutes before turning the cornbread onto a rack to cool completely. (the cornbread may be prepared up to 2 days ahead. wrap tightly and refrigerate.)

Working in batches, cook the french toast until nicely browned on both sides, 1 to 2 minutes per side, and adding more bacon fat to the skillet or griddle between batches as needed. Serve the french toast sprinkled with the pecans and dried cranberries, and pass the heated maple syrup at the table.

MAKE THE FRENCH TOAST

With a serrated knife, cut the cornbread into quarters, then slice each piece in half horizontally. Arrange the cornbread cut side up in a vessel large enough to accommodate all of the pieces in a single layer, such as a 13x18inch rimmed baking sheet. in a 1-quart measuring cup, whisk together the milk, maple syrup, eggs, vanilla extract, cinnamon, and nutmeg. evenly pour over the cornbread. Using a pastry brush, brush some of the custard that pools around the cornbread over any dry spots that were missed while pouring. Set aside until most of the custard is absorbed, about 15 minutes. lightly coat a 12-inch nonstick skillet or a griddle with some of the reserved bacon fat, and heat over medium heat.

a new twist on french toast starts with cornbread cut into the shape of sliced bread.

apple cornbread skillet cobbler Honey, cinnamon, and coarse sugar lend a sweet sparkle to the topping on this rustic cobbler. A few McIntosh apples in the filling break down during baking to form a sauce that ties everything together. Serve this right from the skillet for a casual alternative to apple pie. Serves 4 to 6 1/2 recipe unbaked Cornbread Batter (p. 54) 21/4 oz. (½ cup) unbleached all-purpose flour ½ cup packed light brown sugar

1 Tbs. finely chopped crystallized ginger



2 tsp. ground ginger

11/4 tsp. ground cinnamon

1 tsp. freshly grated nutmeg



2 lb. tart apples (about 6 medium), peeled, cored, and cut into 1/2-inch wedges

12 oz. McIntosh apples (about 2), peeled, cored, and cut into 1/2-inch wedges

2 Tbs. spiced rum



1 Tbs. unsalted butter, softened



1 to 11/2 Tbs. white sanding sugar



2 Tbs. honey

Whipped cream or vanilla ice cream, for serving

Position a rack in the center of the oven, and heat the oven to 350°F. Prepare the cornbread batter and set aside at room temperature. In a large bowl, whisk the flour, brown sugar, crystallized ginger, ground ginger, 1 tsp. of the cinnamon, and the nutmeg. Toss the apples in the mixture to coat. Add the rum, and toss again. Grease a 10-inch cast-iron or other heavyduty oven-safe skillet with the butter. Add the apple mixture, including any unabsorbed flour mixture. Dollop the batter in scant 1/4-cup mounds over the apples. Sprinkle the batter with the sanding sugar. Bake until the top is golden brown and the apples are tender, 55 to 65 minutes, rotating the skillet halfway through. If the top becomes golden brown before the apples are tender, loosely cover with foil to prevent overbrowning. Whisk the honey with the remaining 1/4 tsp. cinnamon. Drizzle on top of the hot cobbler. Serve warm with whipped cream or ice cream.

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Dollops of cornbread batter bake into a fluffy biscuit cobbler topping.

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Turkey TwoWays Roast the breast and braise the legs to get the best out of both. t e x t b y j o a n n e s m a r t; r e c i p e s b y J o h n A s h

Last year, I hosted Thanksgiving

(something I don’t normally do) and bought what I thought was a reasonably sized turkey. Then more family members said they would come, so I bought a small turkey breast to roast in addition to the whole bird. Then I panicked thinking about how I still might not have enough meat (I desperately wanted leftovers for turkey sandwiches) and about how my dad really likes dark meat, so I bought some extra legs and thighs to cook up. Because I didn’t have enough space to roast them, I braised the legs the night before and then reheated them on the stove in their braising liquid to serve. I had plenty of food, and people raved about the braised turkey. I may be hosting a smaller gathering this year, and if so, I’m just going to roast a breast, braise some legs, and skip the whole bird entirely. Here’s why: Roasting a breast instead of a whole bird means you can take the breast out of the oven as soon as it’s done—without having to wait for the legs and thighs to finish cooking. No overcooking keeps the breast nice and juicy. Braising the dark meat makes it especially tender while the liquid itself adds savory flavor. Plus, the braising can be done two days ahead, and the turkey will only taste better for it. My turkey offerings will be tastier than ever because I’ve asked chef John Ash,

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author of Culinary Birds: The Ultimate Poultry Cookbook, to supply the recipes. He suggests brining the breast in a mix of maple syrup and soy sauce to both season it and keep it from drying out. The results are so good, you almost don’t need his mushroom and tarragon gravy, but then you would be missing out on some plate-licking goodness. Because you don’t need the pan juice from the turkey to make the gravy (it would be too salty from the brine anyway), it also can be made a day or two ahead. For braising the turkey legs, chef Ash employs lots of aromatics, including garlic, onion, herbs, and spices, plus white wine to complement rather than obscure the dark meat’s flavor. (And unlike red wine, it doesn’t turn the meat purple.) Braising works wonders on the meat but leaves the skin a little flabby, which is why it comes off. But don’t despair: Some crisped pancetta sprinkled over the meat adds a similar satisfying crackle. The flavors of both the turkey breast and legs mingle happily. Of course, you can go with just one method, but if you treat your Thanksgiving guests to both braised and roasted turkey, they will be very thankful indeed. Chef John Ash is an instructor at the Culinary Institute of America’s Napa Valley campus and the author of many cookbooks.

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maple-brined turkey breast with mushroom gravy Brining brings out the best in turkey, making it juicy and adding savory flavor; be sure to allow enough time (at least 4 hours) to brine the breast. The mushroom gravy is rich, thick, and fragrant with fresh tarragon, and it can be made completely ahead. Serves 6 to 8 FOR THE turkey 11/2 cups pure maple syrup

1 cup firmly packed light brown sugar

3/4 cup soy sauce 2 3/8 oz. fine sea salt (1/4 cup if using La Baleine brand)

6 cloves garlic, smashed and peeled



3 dried bay leaves



1 tsp. whole black peppercorns



1 7- to 8-lb. bone-in, skin-on turkey breast, trimmed of excess fat

Remove the meat from the bone for easier slicing, then serve with the gravy.

FOR THE gravy

MAKE THE gravy



2 oz. (4 Tbs.) unsalted butter



1 Tbs. olive or canola oil

Heat 2 Tbs. of the butter and the oil in a 12inch skillet over medium heat. Add the shallot and cook, stirring, until soft but not brown, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the mushrooms, season lightly with salt, and cook, stirring infrequently, until any liquid they release has evaporated and they are well browned, 5 to 6 minutes. Add the stock and sherry, and cook over high heat until reduced to about 21/2 cups, about 15 minutes; it will be thickened later. (The gravy can be prepared to this point up to 2 days ahead. Refrigerate and reheat gently before proceeding.)

1/4 cup finely chopped shallot

8 oz. mixed fresh mushrooms, finely chopped (about 2 cups)

Kosher salt

4 cups unsalted turkey or chicken stock



3 Tbs. dry sherry



3 tsp. cornstarch



1 Tbs. thinly sliced fresh chives



1 Tbs. chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley



1 Tbs. chopped fresh tarragon

Freshly ground black pepper BRINE the turkey

Combine the maple syrup, sugar, soy sauce, salt, garlic, bay leaves, and peppercorns in a 5- to 6-quart pot. Add 3 quarts water and simmer until the sugar and salt dissolve. Cool completely. Place the turkey breast in the pot, skin side down (it’s OK if some of the backbone sticks out). Refrigerate, loosely covered, for at least 4 hours and up to 18 hours.

ROAST THE TURKEY AND FINISH THE gravy

Position an oven rack in the lower third of the oven, and heat the oven to 350°F. Remove the turkey breast from the brine, rinse it well, and pat dry with paper towels. Discard the brine. Place the breast skin side up on a rack in a roasting pan. Roast until the skin is golden brown and an instant-read thermometer registers 160°F in the thickest area of the breast, about 2 hours (begin checking earlier if your bird is on the smaller side). If the skin is overbrowning, cover the breast loosely with aluminum foil. Transfer to a carving board, tent with foil, and let rest for 15 to 20 minutes. Just before serving, bring the gravy to a simmer over medium-low heat. Mix the cornstarch with 3 Tbs. water. Stir this mixture into the gravy, a little at a time, until thickened to your liking (you may not need it all). Whisk in the remaining 2 Tbs. butter, the chives, parsley, and tarragon, and season to taste with salt and pepper. Carve the turkey breast, and serve with the gravy. Pair With: Chardonnay and Pinot Noir It’s never a bad idea to choose these plays-well-with-others wines for the Thanksgiving table, and both can go with both recipes.

Buy the parts separately While you could buy one big turkey and break it down into a whole breast and legs, it’s easier to buy parts. As Thanksgiving nears, you will see more and more turkey, whole and in parts, at the market and should be able to get just what you need.

Braised meat comes off the bone easily; just pull it off in large pieces, then serve with the sauce topped with parsley and pancetta.

braised turkey legs with crisp pancetta and parsley Turkey legs cook up deliciously tender when braised. Just before serving, the meat is garnished with crisped pancetta, which gives it the same satisfying crunch as crackly, roasted skin. Serves 6 to 8

2 to 3 Tbs. olive oil



2 skin-on, bone-in turkey drumsticks (about 1½ to 2 lb.)



2 skin-on, bone-in turkey thighs (about 21/2 to 31/2 lb.)

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 large white onion, chopped



4 large cloves garlic, peeled and slivered



3 whole cloves



2 dried bay leaves



1 tsp. dried oregano



2 Tbs. tomato paste



3 cups unsalted turkey or chicken stock

11/4 cups dry white wine 1/8 tsp. crushed red pepper flakes



3 oz. thinly sliced pancetta

1/4 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

In a large 7- to 8-quart Dutch oven or other heavy-duty pot, heat 2 Tbs. of the oil over medium-high heat. Season the drumsticks and thighs with salt and pepper. Working in batches, sear the turkey parts until well browned on both sides, 8 to 12 minutes per batch. Transfer the turkey to a rimmed baking sheet. Add the onion, garlic, cloves, bay leaves, and oregano to the pot and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion begins to brown, about 5 minutes. Stir in the tomato paste, and cook for 1 minute. Add the stock, wine, and pepper flakes, and scrape up any browned bits on the bottom of the pot. Bring to a boil. Return the turkey and any juice to the pot, reduce the heat to medium low, partially cover, and simmer gently until the turkey is very tender, 2 to 21/2 hours. Remove from the heat and let the turkey cool, covered, in the braising liquid for 1 hour.

Photographs by Scott Phillips; food styling by Ronne Day

Transfer the turkey to a cutting board. Remove and discard the skin, then take the meat off the bone in large pieces. Strain the sauce through a medium-mesh strainer into a saucepan and keep warm or, if making ahead, a heatproof storage container large enough to hold the sauce and the meat. Return the turkey to the sauce. (The turkey may be cooked up to 2 days before serving. Cover and refrigerate.) To serve, gently reheat the turkey and sauce, if necessary. Cook the pancetta in a 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium heat until crisp, 3 to 5 minutes. Transfer to a papertowel-lined plate, and let cool briefly. Crumble or coarsely chop the pancetta. Stir 1 Tbs. of the parsley into the turkey and sauce. Transfer the turkey and enough sauce to keep it moist to a rimmed serving platter. Transfer the remaining sauce to a gravy boat. Top the turkey with the pancetta and the remaining parsley. Serve with the sauce on the side.

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This easy hybrid technique delivers tender-on-the-inside, golden-brown-on-the-outside potatoes, carrots, cauliflower, and more. by Laraine Perri

Steam-Roasted

Vegetables

I love roasted vegetables, especially when they’re golden brown on the outside and tender, almost velvety on the inside. To guarantee such results, many chefs parboil the vegetables before roasting them. Parboiling gives them a head start toward tenderness in a moist cooking environment before being exposed to the hot, drying blast of the oven. While I like those results, I don’t like the thought of two cooking methods that require different pans-roasting vegetables should be easy and practically hands off. That’s where my method comes in. I realized I could create a similar moist environment

right on a baking sheet by covering it tightly with foil for the first half of roasting. The hot oven plus the natural moisture in the vegetables creates steam, which gets the cooking process off to a gentle start. Then I simply remove the foil to let the dry heat of the oven coax out the vegetables’ natural sugars, concentrating the flavors and caramelizing their exteriors. Though the vegetables are delicious simply seasoned with salt and pepper, I also like to add additional flavorings, such as herbs, spices, citrus zest, minced ginger, or garlicbut only after the vegetables are roasted. The heat of the vegetables is enough to bring out

the flavor of the aromatics without burning as they might in the hot oven. I usually steam and roast vegetables at 425°F, but for those with more moisture, like butternut squash, I’ve found that a hotter oven results in better browning. I also steam higher-moisture vegetables for less time and roast for longer, so they get longer exposure to the caramelizing effect of dry heat. Since I first tried this method, I’ve never looked back. And my roasted vegetables have never been better. Food writer Laraine Perri is a regular contributor to Fine Cooking.

steam-roasted carrots with yogurt and dukkah This striking side dish can just as easily work as an appetizer—the carrots make fun finger food. For a pretty presentation, keep a little of the green tops intact. Serves 4 1½ lb. slender carrots (about 16), peeled and trimmed

3 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 1/3 cup whole-milk yogurt ½ tsp. finely grated lemon zest

1 small garlic clove, mashed to a paste with a pinch of kosher salt

Generous pinch ground cumin

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2 tsp. honey

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2 Tbs. homemade or store-bought dukkah (see Note)

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 425°F. Line a large rimmed baking sheet with parchment. Toss the carrots with the oil, ¾ tsp. salt, and a few grinds of pepper on the baking sheet, and spread into a single layer. Cover tightly with foil and transfer to the oven to steam for 20 minutes. Meanwhile, in a small bowl, combine the yogurt, lemon zest, garlic, cumin, and 1/8 tsp. salt. Cover and refrigerate until ready to serve. Carefully remove the foil, rotate the baking sheet, drizzle the honey over the carrots, and continue roasting, turning

the carrots once or twice, until the carrots are tender and beginning to brown, 20 to 25 minutes more. Gently toss the carrots on the baking sheet, and then transfer to a serving platter. Spoon the yogurt sauce over the carrots, sprinkle with the dukkah, and serve. Note: Dukkah, a blend of nuts, seeds, and spices, has a warm, complex, savory, and rich flavor. Look for the Egyptian spice mix in specialty stores and online. You can also make it yourself with easyto-find ingredients. Get the recipe at FineCooking .com/extras.

Photographs by Scott Phillips; food styling by Ronne Day

1 3

STEAM TO TENDERIZE

G A R N I S H F O R F L AV O R

2

ROAST TO CARAMELIZE

steam-roasted roots with maple, sriracha, and thyme This easy fall side dish has a lot going on flavorwise, including sweet and heat. Serves 4 1 lb. medium carrots, cut into 2-inch lengths, halved lengthwise if thick 12 oz. small turnips, peeled and cut into ½-inch-thick wedges 3 large cloves garlic, unpeeled and lightly smashed 3 Tbs. olive oil Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 2 Tbs. pure maple syrup 1 tsp. Sriracha ½ tsp. finely chopped fresh thyme

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 425°F. Line a large rimmed baking sheet with parchment. Toss the carrots, turnips, garlic, oil, ½ tsp. salt, and a few grinds of pepper on the baking sheet. Spread in a single layer, cover tightly with foil, and transfer to the oven to steam for 15 minutes. Meanwhile, combine the maple syrup and Sriracha in a small bowl. Carefully remove the foil, rotate the baking sheet, and drizzle the vegetables with the maple mixture. Continue roasting, turning once halfway through, until tender and browned, 25 to 30 minutes more. Discard the garlic cloves. Sprinkle the vegetables with the thyme, season to taste with salt and pepper, and serve.

tIPS For SUCCeSSFUL SteamroaStinG • Use a large rimmed

baking sheet, not a roasting pan; the lower rim will allow for better airflow and superior browning once the foil is removed.

• For easy cleanup when

including a sugary component like maple syrup or honey, line the baking sheet with parchment. Otherwise, direct contact between the vegetables’ surface and the baking sheet promotes best browning.

• Extrawide heavy-duty

foil makes easy work of completely (and tightly) covering a large rimmed baking sheet.

• Use tongs to lift the foil off to avoid the hot steam.

• Turn the vegetables

once or twice after the foil is removed for more even browning.

• To keep the browned

exterior intact when turning or serving, slide a thin spatula under the vegetables if they’re sticking.

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steam-roasted indian-spiced cauliflower When roasted, cauliflower becomes sweeter and more mellow. Cutting the florets so they have a flat side encourages more browning, which adds roasty notes, too. Toss the cauliflower at the last minute with spices, fresh ginger, and a handful of torn cilantro for a quick passage to India. Serves 4 1 large head cauliflower (2½ to 3 lb.), cut into very large florets, florets halved lengthwise to make flat surfaces 3 large cloves garlic, unpeeled and lightly smashed 5 Tbs. vegetable oil Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 Tbs. coriander seeds 1 tsp. cumin seeds 2 Tbs. minced fresh ginger

1 tsp. ground turmeric Generous pinch cayenne 1 Tbs. fresh lemon juice ¼ cup torn fresh cilantro leaves, for serving (optional)

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 450°F. on a large rimmed baking sheet, toss the cauliflower and garlic with 3 tbs. of the oil, ¾ tsp. salt, and a few grinds of black pepper. arrange the florets flat side down in a single layer. Cover tightly with foil and transfer to the oven to steam for 10 minutes. Carefully remove the foil, rotate the baking sheet, and roast until the bottom side is nicely browned, 10 to 15 minutes. Flip the cauliflower and continue roasting until just tender and deeply browned, 10 to 12 minutes more. meanwhile, heat the coriander and cumin

in a small heavy-duty skillet over medium heat, shaking the pan, until the seeds are just fragrant and lightly toasted, 1 to 2 minutes. Cool completely. transfer to a spice grinder, and grind medium fine. Heat the remaining 2 tbs. oil in the same skillet over medium-low heat. add the ginger and cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 1 minute. remove from the heat and stir in the cumin, coriander, turmeric, and cayenne. Swirl in the lemon juice. discard the garlic and transfer the cauliflower to a serving bowl. add the spice mixture, and toss gently. Season to taste with salt, garnish with the cilantro, if using, and serve.

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steam-roasted potatoes with oregano and lemon Steam-roasting gives potatoes a light, almost silky interior. Delicious plain, they’re also good dolled up with lemon and oregano as in this recipe, or try other flavorings, such as finely chopped garlic mixed with fresh mint or rosemary and Parmigiano-Reggiano. Serves 4 6 medium red potatoes (about 1½ lb.), cut into ¾- to 1-inch-thick wedges 2 Tbs. olive oil Kosher salt 1 tsp. finely grated lemon zest 1 tsp. dried oregano

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Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 425°F. toss the potatoes with the oil and ½ tsp. salt on a large rimmed baking sheet, and arrange them cut side down in a single layer. Cover the baking sheet tightly with foil, and transfer to the oven to steam for 20 minutes. Carefully remove the foil,

rotate the baking sheet, and roast until the bottoms of the potatoes are beginning to brown in spots, 15 to 20 minutes. Flip the potatoes with a thin metal spatula, and continue roasting until the potatoes are tender, 7 to 10 minutes more. immediately toss with the lemon zest and oregano, and serve.

steam-roasted butternut squash with crispy sage Butternut squash and sage are a classic combination. Here, the sage is briefly cooked in butter before mixing with the squash. It becomes delightfully crisp, and its flavor infuses the butter. Serves 4 1 2½- to 3-lb. butternut squash, peeled, seeded, and cut into 1-inch pieces (5 to 6 cups) 2 Tbs. vegetable oil Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 2 Tbs. unsalted butter

12 fresh sage leaves 1 tsp. fresh lemon juice

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 500°F. Toss the squash with the oil, ½ tsp. salt, and a few grinds of pepper on a large rimmed baking sheet, and spread in a single layer. Cover tightly with foil, and transfer to the oven to steam for 5 minutes. Carefully remove the foil, rotate the baking sheet, and roast for another 10 minutes. flip each piece

of squash over, and for the most even cooking, move the pieces in the center of the pan to the edges and vice versa. Continue roasting until the squash is tender and deeply browned, 12 to 15 minutes more. Transfer to a serving bowl. Melt the butter in a small skillet over medium heat until the foam just subsides. Add the sage, and cook until crisp, 30 to 60 seconds. Swirl in the lemon juice. Pour the sage and butter over the squash, season to taste with salt, and serve.

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Cooking with

Beer I’m a home brewer and advocate for good beer, which means there’s little doubt what you’ll find in my glass around 6 o’clock. Since I’m also usually starting dinner at that time, it makes sense to share a little with the pan, too. To put my own spin on Julia Child’s famous quip, I love cooking with beer, and sometimes I even put it in food. Beer is remarkably complex for something made with only four ingredients: malted grains (which are soaked in water so they germinate, then dried to halt germination), hops, yeast, and water. Malted grains like barley, wheat, and rye give beer its sweeter flavors, like those of toasted bread and dark caramel. Hops, the green flowers of an herbaceous plant, balance this sweetness with some bitterness, much the way herbs balance out a stew. Yeast can leave a beer tasting crisp and clean or spicy and fruity, depending on the type. Even the water used for brewing plays a part in the final flavor. Different brews run the gamut from light and citrusy, to full of toasty malt flavors, to bitterly hoppy, to dark and chocolatey. This is true whether you’re drinking them or cooking with them.

Beers with complex flavors, like India pale ales (better known as IPAs) and porters add instant depth to simple dishes, while more straightforward beers like mild English ales add maltiness or yeastiness to complement more complex dishes. Others, like malty amber ales, are good with almost anything. The point at which you add the beer also affects flavor. For example, a splash of hoppy beer can brighten a rich dish just before serving, but becomes more bitter as it’s cooked. That bitter edge might be desirable in a rich dish, so sometimes a hoppy beer is a great addition to a braise. Light, mild beers, on the other hand, might lose their flavor altogether if cooked for a long time, but can act as the acid in a dish if added later. If this sounds like a lot to keep track of, don’t worry. The four recipes on the following pages feature different beers; think of them as a starting point for your own experiments. And if you’re wondering what to drink with each dish, that’s easy: the same beer you cooked with. So grab a bottle opener and get cooking with beer.

Discover which brews to put in which bites. By Emma Christensen

Emma Christensen is a food writer, recipe developer, and author of True Brews and Brew Better Beer.

Photographs by Scott Phillips; food styling by Ronne Day

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pale ale pulled-chicken sliders The bitter, herbaceous, hoppy flavor of pale ale adds depth to both the chicken and a quick-pickled red onion topping. Makes 24 sliders; serves 10 to 12 FOR THE PICKLED ONION

THE BEER american pale ale or india pale ale, such as Dale’s Pale Ale from oskar blues and Grand Am American Pale Ale from bear Republic brewing co.

THE FLAVORS bitter, citrusy, and a bit herbaceous

GOOD IN simPLE BraisEs american pale ales and iPas have become synonymous with bitter hops, but that’s not all they have to offer. The same hop flowers responsible for bitterness also infuse these beers with a whole range of flavors and aromas from fresh orange juice to woodsy pine to crushed garden herbs. as a group, these beers are bright and bracing, best used to cut the richness of meat dishes or to perk up vinaigrettes. Stick with less hoppy brews ( just ask a salesperson at a store with a large beer selection) if you’re adding more than a few tablespoons; in larger amounts, the mega-hopped iPas and double iPas can become overwhelmingly bitter when cooked.

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1 12-oz. bottle American pale ale ¾ cup white-wine vinegar 1 tsp. granulated sugar Kosher salt 1 medium red onion, thinly sliced FOR THE CHICKEN 3 lb. boneless, skinless chicken thighs, trimmed 4 medium cloves garlic, smashed 2 Tbs. honey 2 Tbs. tomato paste Kosher salt 1 12-oz. bottle American pale ale 4 tsp. Louisiana-style hot sauce, such as Tabasco; more to taste ¾ cup mayonnaise FOR ASSEMBLY 24 slider buns, preferably pretzel or whole grain 2 cups baby arugula

PICKLE THE ONION

combine the beer, vinegar, sugar, and ½ tsp. salt in a small saucepan and bring to a boil. remove the pan from the heat and add the onion. Let cool to room temperature, stirring once or twice. (The onion can be used right away or refrigerated for up to 3 weeks.) COOK THE CHICKEN

Position a rack in the center of the oven, and heat the oven to 325°f. Put the chicken and garlic in a 5-quart Dutch oven or other heavy-duty pot with a lid. in a medium bowl, whisk together the honey, tomato paste, and 1 tsp. salt, then whisk in the beer. Pour over the chicken. Place the pot over high heat and bring to a rapid simmer. cover and transfer to the oven. braise until the chicken pulls apart easily with a fork, 50 to 60 minutes. With a slotted spoon, transfer the chicken to a large bowl. Transfer the garlic cloves to a small bowl and set aside. Using

two forks, pull the meat into shreds and set aside. over medium-high heat, boil the braising liquid until reduced by half, about 15 minutes. return the chicken to the pot and add 2 tsp. of the hot sauce and 2 tsp. of the onion pickling liquid. mix well and season to taste with more hot sauce, pickling liquid, or salt. mash the reserved garlic cloves with a fork. Whisk with the mayonnaise and remaining 2 tsp. hot sauce. (The chicken and the garlic mayonnaise can be prepared up to 3 days ahead; refrigerate both and reheat the chicken before serving.) ASSEMBLE THE SLIDERS

Spread a thin layer of the garlic mayonnaise on the bottom of each slider bun. Top each with about ¼ cup of the chicken, some pickled onion, and some arugula leaves. close the slider buns and serve.

Photographs by Scott Phillips; food styling by ronne Day

THE BEER Porter or smoked porter, such as Founder’s Porter from founder’s brewing co. and Alaskan Smoked Porter by Alaskan brewing co.

THE FLAVORS Dark and roasty

GOOD IN riCh DishEs These dark brown beers are typified by rich flavors like roasted coffee beans, dark chocolate, and burnt sugar (a good thing—think caramel). They walk the line between sweet and savory, and as such, they can swing either way in the kitchen, going from chocolate cake to beefy chili with ease. These are beers with personality. They tend to take center stage, so don’t cook them with your fanciest cheeses, chocolates, or meats, because the flavors of those ingredients may get lost. again, steer clear of highly hopped varieties.

porter bacon mac & cheese Porter’s deep-roasted coffee flavors complement the rich, creamy cheese sauce, while its mild, smoky notes play off the bacon (even more so if you use a smoked porter). Serves 8 to 10 4 oz. (½ cup) unsalted butter; more softened for the baking dish 1 lb. bacon, cut into ¾-inch dice Kosher salt 1 lb. elbow macaroni or small shell pasta 1 18 oz. (¼ cup) all-purpose flour 1 12-oz. can evaporated milk, shaken 1 cup porter; more as needed 8 oz. sharp Cheddar, grated (3 cups) 4 oz. Gruyère, grated (1½ cups) 1 tsp. ground mustard 1 cup panko

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 400°f. grease a 9x13-inch baking dish with butter. cook the bacon in a large (12-inch) skillet over medium heat, stirring frequently, until very crisp, 15 to 20 minutes. Use a slotted spoon to transfer to paper towels. Discard or save the bacon fat for another use. meanwhile, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil, and cook the pasta according to package directions until al dente. Drain and set aside. in the same pot used to cook the pasta, melt 4 Tbs. of the butter over medium heat. Sprinkle with the flour and cook, whisking, until it becomes a pale golden paste, 2 to 3 minutes. Whisking constantly, slowly add the evaporated milk. Whisk until smooth, then whisk in the beer. continue cooking, stirring

and scraping the bottom of the pan, until the sauce comes to a simmer and thickens slightly, 3 to 5 minutes. remove from the heat, and stir in both cheeses a handful at a time. Stir in the ground mustard and ½ tsp. salt. if the sauce seems too thick, add a splash of beer to thin it out. Stir in the pasta and bacon, and season to taste with salt. Transfer the pasta to the prepared baking dish. Melt the remaining 4 Tbs. butter in a small saucepan over medium-low heat or a medium bowl in the microwave. Stir in the panko and a pinch of salt. Scatter evenly over the pasta. bake until the edges are bubbly and the crumbs are golden, 15 to 20 minutes. Let cool for 10 to 15 minutes before serving.

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THE BEER belgian-style saison, tripel, or witbier, such as Red Barn Ale from The Lost Abbey and Tank 7 Farmhouse Ale from boulevard brewing co.

THE FLAVORS fruity and spicy

GOOD IN sWEEts

lemon–cardamom cookies with saison glaze Sweet, malty Belgian saison adds intriguing flavor to the glaze for these soft cookies, and cardamom accents the spice notes in the saison. The cookies are even better the day after baking. Makes about 30 cookies FOR THE COOKIES 9 oz. (2 cups) unbleached all-purpose flour 2 tsp. baking powder 1 tsp. cornstarch ½ tsp. table salt 1 cup granulated sugar 6 oz. (¾ cup) unsalted butter, softened 1 Tbs. finely grated lemon zest (from 1 large lemon) ¼ tsp. ground cardamom 1 large egg, at room temperature 1 tsp. pure vanilla extract 3 Tbs. fresh lemon juice (from 1½ large lemons)

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Think of these as your bottled baking pantry. Yes, baking! Lightly hopped and made with belgian strains of yeast that add fruity notes, bitterness isn’t a concern with these beers. They range from fruity and slightly sweet (tripels, which have added sugars) to crisp and citrusy (witbiers, which have some unmalted yeast in them) to crisp and spicy (saisons); they lend themselves to everything from a batch of waffles to apple pie. Try to match the flavors on the label with the flavors in your recipe.

FOR THE GLAZE 12 oz. (3 cups) confectioners’ sugar ¼ cup saison or farmhouse ale; more as needed ¼ tsp. ground cardamom MAKE THE COOKIES

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 350°f. Whisk the flour, baking powder, cornstarch, and salt in a medium bowl. in a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment or with a hand mixer, beat the sugar, butter, lemon zest, and cardamom on medium-high speed until light and fluffy, about 3 minutes. Scrape down the bowl. beat in the egg and vanilla, and scrape the bowl again. on low speed, mix in half of the flour mixture, then the lemon juice, followed by the remaining flour. mix just until combined. refrigerate the dough for about 15 minutes to firm it up enough to scoop. Line two rimmed baking sheets with parch-

ment. Drop rounded tablespoons of the dough onto the baking sheets, spaced 2 inches apart. bake the cookies, one sheet at a time, until puffed and set at the edges, 10 to 12 minutes. cool on the baking sheet for 5 minutes, then transfer to a rack with a thin spatula to cool completely. GLAZE THE COOKIES

in a medium bowl, whisk the sugar, saison, and cardamom until smooth. add more saison a teaspoon at a time as needed to make a thick but pourable glaze. Drizzle or cover each cookie with about 2 tsp. of the glaze, using the back of the spoon to spread it evenly. Let sit at room temperature until the glaze sets, about 15 minutes, before serving. The cookies will keep for up to 3 days; store in an airtight container at room temperature with wax paper between each layer of cookies.

amber ale lentil salad with hazelnuts and cherries The nutty notes of a mild ale play well with those in the lentils and hazelnuts, while cherries and parsley add bright contrast to this hearty side dish. It’s a fantastic accompaniment to roast chicken or duck. Serves 4 as a side dish ¼ cup plus 2 tsp. extra-virgin olive oil 1 large shallot, minced (about 13 cup) Kosher salt 1 cup dried French lentils (lentils du Puy) 1 12-oz. bottle amber or brown ale 13 cup coarsely chopped dried sweet cherries 1 Tbs. cider vinegar

2 tsp. Dijon mustard Freshly ground black pepper 1 cup coarsely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley ½ cup hazelnuts, toasted, skinned, and chopped (see p. 96)

Heat 2 tsp. of the olive oil in a 2-quart saucepan over medium heat. add the shallot and ¼ tsp. salt, and cook until softened, about 2 minutes. Stir in the lentils, 1 cup of the beer, and 1 cup water. boil over high heat, stirring once or twice, until the beer foam has settled, then reduce the heat to low. Simmer uncovered until the lentils are tender, 40 to 55 minutes, adding more water as needed to keep

them covered. Drain, reserving the liquid, and transfer the lentils to a serving bowl. meanwhile, in a small bowl, combine the remaining ½ cup beer with the cherries, and let sit until softened, about 15 minutes. Drain, and discard the beer. in a large bowl, whisk the remaining ¼ cup olive oil with the vinegar, mustard, and a pinch each of salt and pepper. gently stir in the warm lentils. Let sit 10 minutes. Stir in the cherries, parsley, and nuts. if the salad seems dry, toss with some of the reserved cooking liquid. Season to taste with more salt or vinegar before serving.

THE BEER american amber or brown ale, such as Honker’s Ale from goose island and Drake’s Amber Ale from Drake’s brewing company

THE FLAVORS nutty, toasty, and clean-finishing

GOOD IN JUst aBOUt anythinG These are the workhorses of a beer lover’s kitchen. You can count on them for well-balanced nutty and toasted malt flavors without being overly sweet or heavy. This makes them good all-purpose beers—the kind you can throw into a braise, stew, or simple pot of beans without too much thought. in longer-cooked dishes, their flavors will become less distinct, and they’ll add a little extra something. They’re also mild enough to use in quick-cooked dishes without overpowering the other flavors. avoid american styles described as “hoppy,” which can make food taste bitter.

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Whole-Grain

Pastas

Embrace their unique flavors by pairing them with bold ingredients. By Maria Speck

As a food writer who specializes in cooking with whole grains, I often hear a similar story from my readers. Maybe you already know how it goes: You want to eat a bit better, more nutritiously, so one night you substitute whole-grain pasta for the standard spaghetti strands in your favorite recipe—only to find the result, shall I say, underwhelming. And that’s the end of your interest in trying wholegrain pastas. They may be lower in calories and higher in fiber, vitamins, and minerals than regular pastas, but if they don’t taste good, who cares? To this, I say: Don’t give up! The key to making whole-grain pastas sing lies in understanding how they differ from regular pastas and adjusting your pasta dishes accordingly. Two things set whole-grain pastas apart from regular pasta: their coarser, chewier texture and more assertive flavor. It’s a bit like preparing steak instead of chicken breast—you wouldn’t necessarily just substitute one for the other, and neither should you do that with whole-grain and regular pastas. Instead, try to combine whole-grain pastas with ingredients that highlight rather than compete with their unique characteristics, something you can do in a couple of ways.

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Choose deeply savory flavors. Think roasted or caramelized vegetables, such as butternut squash, red onions, and radicchio. Earthy mushrooms, aged cheeses, spicy chiles, fragrant herbs, smoky bacon, and salty prosciutto are natural pairings, as are anchovies, tuna, and sardines. Ingredients like these will not only stand up to whole-grain pastas’ nutty flavors, but they’ll enhance and harmonize them, too. Add complementary textures. If you simply toss some whole-grain pasta with a jar of marinara sauce and call it dinner, you’re going to be disappointed. In that scenario, the pasta’s rustic texture will predominate, and you’ll quickly grow tired of it. But take that same pasta and add chewy, toothsome, or crunchy ingredients, like sun-dried tomatoes, corn, beans, or nuts, and you’ll have a dish that’s much more balanced and enticing. You can see these bold flavors and textures at work in the recipes on the following pages. Let them inspire you to give whole-grain pasta another try. And if you are one of those people who tried whole-grain pasta once and gave up, you may even grow to love it. Maria Speck is a food journalist and the award-winning author of Simply Ancient Grains and Ancient Grains for Modern Meals.

Photographs by Scott Phillips; food styling by Ronne Day

The New Whole-Grain Pasta Whole-grain pastas have come a long way from the dense cardboard noodles of the 1970s and ‘80s. Many varieties are now on the market, and some producers emphasize the flavors of the ancient wheat varieties they use—from buttery kamut to delicately nutty spelt. As with regular pastas, quality varies widely among brands, and not all of them are 100% whole grain. It’s worth your time to read the labels and try different brands. On supermarket and specialtystore shelves, look for organic wholegrain pastas from these brands:

• BioNaturae • DeLallo • Whole Foods’ 365 Everyday Value

• Felicetti For a deeper dive into the world of exceptional whole-grain pastas, I highly recommend the following brands (see Sources, p. 100, to mail-order): Community Grains in Oakland, California, introduced the concept of identity-preserved pasta. This standard allows consumers to trace the wheat from the field where it was grown to the box on the store shelf, via the mill where it was ground. Theirs is a superambitious goal for transparency, and their organic whole-grain spaghetti and torchiette have a tempting sweet wheatiness. Baia Pasta, also based in Oakland, uses only 100% American-grown flour and traditional Italian production methods. The company offers a wide array of pasta shapes, including alluring wheat varieties with an appealing chewiness. Their whole durum has subtle herbaceous notes, and you can detect the aroma of toasted honey in their kamut pasta. Sfoglini, based in Brooklyn, offers pasta made with organic rye, emmer, and spelt, grown in New York state. Jovial has built a reputation for its delectable gluten-free whole-grain pasta, made with organic brown rice flour and traditional methods.

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whole-grain spaghetti with wild mushrooms, bacon, and rosemary Briefly pan-fried with a touch of bacon and umami-rich soy sauce, aromatic mushrooms become the perfect foil for whole-grain spaghetti. With its delicate nuttiness, farro pasta is ideal here, but any whole-wheat pasta will be just as good. Serves 4 to 6 Fine sea salt 12 oz. whole-grain spaghetti

2 oz. bacon, chopped into 1/2-inch pieces



1 to 2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil



1 lb. mixed fresh mushrooms, trimmed and sliced 1/4 inch thick (about 7 cups)



3 medium shallots, thinly sliced crosswise and separated into rings (about 3/4 cup)



1 Tbs. minced fresh rosemary

1/8 tsp. crushed red pepper flakes; more to taste

2 Tbs. reduced-sodium soy sauce

occasionally, until starting to crisp, 4 to 5 minutes. Move the bacon to the side of the skillet, increase the heat to medium high, and add 1 to 2 Tbs. of the oil to coat the pan. When the oil is hot, add the mushrooms, shallots, and 1/4 tsp. salt; cook, stirring occasionally, until the mushrooms release their liquid and start to brown and the shallots just start to caramelize, 4 to 7 minutes. Add the rosemary and pepper flakes, and cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in the soy sauce; it will evaporate quickly. Remove the pan from the heat and set aside, partially covered, until the pasta is ready. Reserve 1 cup of the pasta cooking water. Drain the pasta and add it to the mushroom mixture. Return the skillet to medium-low heat. Add the cheese and 1/2 cup of the pasta water; toss vigorously with tongs for 1 to 2 minutes until a glossy sauce develops, adding a bit more pasta water as needed to loosen the sauce. Season generously with pepper and more salt and pepper flakes to taste. Serve sprinkled with the parsley and more cheese.

3/4 oz. (3/4 cup) finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano; more for serving Freshly ground black pepper 1/3 cup lightly packed chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

Bring a large pot of well-salted water to a boil and cook the pasta according to package directions until not quite al dente. Meanwhile, cook the bacon in a 12-inch heavy-duty skillet over medium heat, stirring

Pair With: OREGON PINOT NOIR Whole-wheat pasta, mushrooms, rosemary—each of these ingredients is a cry for Pinot Noir, especially a more mushroomy one from the Pacific Northwest.

whole-grain penne with sun-dried tomatoes and corn Sweet, chewy dried tomatoes and brown butter infused with orange zest and spicy chile boost the whole-grain flavors of the pasta in this simple yet scrumptious weeknight dish. Thai basil has a peppery aroma with licorice notes that’s especially nice with the pasta and corn, but Italian basil can substitute. Serves 4 to 6 Fine sea salt 12 oz. whole-grain penne 21/2 cups (12 oz.) fresh or frozen corn kernels

3 oz. (6 Tbs.) unsalted butter, cut into a few pieces



1 Tbs. finely grated orange zest, preferably organic (from 1 large orange)



1 Fresno or other small fresh red chile, minced (remove seeds and ribs for less heat)



1 oz. (1 cup) finely grated pecorino romano; more for serving

1/4 cup oil-packed sun-dried tomatoes, drained and chopped 1/2 cup packed torn fresh basil leaves (1/2 oz.), preferably Thai basil

Bring a large pot of well-salted water to a boil. Cook the pasta according to package directions until not quite al dente. Add the corn and cook for 1 minute. Meanwhile, place a small heatproof bowl next to the stove. In a small heavy-duty saucepan (preferably stainless steel so you can monitor the color of the butter), melt the butter over medium-low heat and cook, watching closely and swirling occasionally, until it is golden brown with brown specks, 6 to 8 minutes. Add the orange zest and chile (it will sizzle and foam), and cook, stirring, for 30 seconds, then immediately pour into the bowl. Reserve 3/4 cup of the pasta cooking water. Drain the pasta and corn, and return the mixture to the pot or a large heated serving bowl. Using a large serving spoon, stir in 1/4 cup of the pasta water, the butter mixture, cheese, and sun-dried tomatoes. Toss vigorously for about 2 minutes until a glossy sauce forms, adding a bit more cooking water as needed to loosen the sauce. Season to taste with salt. Sprinkle with the basil. Serve immediately, passing more cheese at the table. Pair With: VIOGNIER  This French white wine has beautiful aromatic qualities that’ll enhance the orange. Look for a barrel-aged Viognier, which will be lower acid and less mineraly.

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whole-grain farfalle with spicy shrimp and roasted peppers Here, the rustic whole-grain pasta is enhanced with the mild sweetness of roasted peppers and shrimp, and the kick of a spicy garlic marinade. You can use jarred roasted peppers, if you like, but roasting your own will make the pasta tastier, especially if you make them a day ahead. Serves 4 to 6

5 medium cloves garlic, peeled and crushed



2 Fresno or other small fresh red chiles, cut into a few pieces (remove seeds and ribs for less heat)

1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil; more as needed

2 tsp. crumbled dried oregano



2 tsp. Aleppo pepper or 1/2 tsp. red pepper flakes; more to taste

3/4 tsp. ground cumin Fine sea salt

3 red bell peppers or a mixture of red and yellow, roasted, peeled, seeded, and cut into 1-inch pieces



1 Tbs. balsamic vinegar



1 lb. extra-large shrimp (26 to 30 per lb.), preferably wildcaught, peeled and deveined

12 oz. whole-grain farfalle

4 oz. (1 cup) crumbled mild feta, preferably sheep’s milk

1/2 cup lightly packed chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

1 to 11/2 oz. (1 to 11/2 cups) finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

In a food processor, pulse the garlic and chiles until finely chopped. Transfer to a medium bowl, and add the oil, oregano, Aleppo, cumin, and 1/2 tsp. salt; stir well with a fork to combine. Transfer half of the mixture to another medium bowl and stir in the roasted peppers and vinegar. Add the shrimp to the remaining marinade, gently toss to coat,

and set aside to marinate for 15 minutes. Meanwhile, position a rack 4 inches from the broiler element, and heat the broiler on high. Bring a large pot of wellsalted water to a boil, and cook the pasta according to package directions until al dente. While the pasta cooks, lightly grease a large rimmed baking sheet with olive oil. Remove the shrimp from the marinade, gently pat dry with paper towels, and place on the baking sheet. Broil, flipping once, until opaque throughout, 3 to 4 minutes total. Reserve 1/2 cup of the pasta cooking water. Drain the pasta and transfer to a large heated serving bowl. Add the peppers with the marinade, feta, parsley, and 1/4 cup of the pasta water. Gently toss with a large serving spoon for 1 minute to warm the feta, adding a bit more pasta water as needed to loosen the sauce. Season to taste with salt. Divide the pasta among heated shallow bowls. Sprinkle generously with the Parmigiano, and place 4 to 5 shrimp on top of each serving. Serve, passing more cheese at the table. Pair With: WEISSBIER You need a weighty, wheaty beer to go with whole-grain pasta. This one also has enough sweetness to hold its own against the spicy chile.

whole-grain pasta e fagioli with butternut squash and sage pesto Whole-grain orecchiette or shells star in this makeover of a classic Italian pasta and bean soup. With butternut squash, borlotti beans, and a bright sage pesto, it’s perfect for a chilly autumn evening. Serves 4 to 6 FOR THE SOUP Fine sea salt

6 oz. whole-grain orecchiette, small shells, or other small pasta



2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil



1 cup chopped yellow onion (about 1 small)

21/2 cups diced (1/2 to 3/4 inch) butternut squash

2 Tbs. chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley



1 Tbs. chopped fresh sage



2 medium cloves garlic, minced

1/2 tsp. crushed red pepper flakes (optional)

2 Tbs. tomato paste

1/2 cup dry white wine

4 cups lower-salt chicken or vegetable broth



1 15-oz. can borlotti (or cranberry or Roman) beans, rinsed and drained (13/4 cups)



1 14-oz. can whole peeled tomatoes with juice, crushed

Freshly ground black pepper FOR THE PESTO

1 packed cup fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves, coarsely chopped



2 to 3 Tbs. coarsely chopped fresh sage



1 medium clove garlic, chopped



1 oz. Parmigiano-Reggiano or Grana Padano, coarsely grated on the large holes of box grater (1/2 cup); more, finely grated, for serving

Fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

6 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil; more as needed

Add the broth, beans, and tomatoes. Stir well, scraping the bottom of the pot, and simmer until the squash is barely tender, 13 to 15 minutes. Add the pasta and continue simmering until the squash and pasta are tender, 1 to 2 minutes. Remove from the heat.

Make the Soup

Make the Pesto and serve

Bring a large pot of well-salted water to a boil, and cook the pasta according to package directions until not quite al dente. Meanwhile, heat the oil in a 5- to 6-quart Dutch oven or other heavy-duty pot over medium heat until shimmering. Add the onion and 1/4 tsp. salt; cook, stirring occasionally, until starting to brown, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the squash and stir to coat with the oil. Add the parsley, sage, garlic, and pepper flakes, if using, and cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add the tomato paste and cook, stirring, until it is evenly distributed and looks slightly darker, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the wine and cook until almost evaporated, about 1 minute.

Put the parsley, sage, garlic, and coarsely grated cheese in a food processor. Sprinkle with 1/4 tsp. salt and 1/4 tsp. pepper and drizzle with the oil. Pulse until finely chopped, adding more oil if necessary to give it a saucy consistency. Season to taste with salt and pepper, and transfer to a bowl. Thin the soup with water if desired and add 1/4 tsp. pepper. Season to taste with more salt and pepper. Divide among soup bowls and spoon 1 to 2 Tbs. pesto on top of each serving. Pass the finely grated cheese at the table. Pair With: BARBERA  This mediumbodied wine can range from red fruit and herbal flavors to those of black fruits and licorice. Look to the wine’s label for descriptors of the former—they’ll go best with the light but earthy qualities of this soulful soup.

Sweet on

Sweet Potatoes Move over, pumpkin. This orange root makes great fall desserts, too. by Nancie McDermott

Sweet Potato Cheesecake with Gingersnap Crust

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When Fine Cooking came calling to see if I’d be interested in writing a feature on sweet potato desserts, my answer was, “That interests me a whole, whole lot,” which is what we say here in North Carolina. Not only do I love sweet potatoes (sometimes called yams), but my home state is also the No. 1 sweet potato producer in the country, harvesting about half of all those grown in the United States. (The best ones, in my opinion, are grown by Mr. Stanley Hughes of Pine Knot Farms, about 20 miles north of where I live.) As far as desserts go, most Southerners (including me) believe that anything pumpkins can do—pies, custards, cakes—sweet potatoes can do better. Think about it: When you eat pumpkin pie, what you mostly taste is a custard flavored by spices like cinnamon, nutmeg, and clove. Sweet potatoes take to those spices, too, but they’re

sweeter and less vegetal than pumpkin, which means the spices can play a reduced role. In fact, I don’t include any at all in my crème brûlée (recipe p. 89), and people still drag their fingers through the ramekin to get every last bit of it. All of these desserts start with mashing some cooked sweet potatoes. I use my well-worn potato masher and edit out any lumps or fibers by hand to ensure a relatively smooth texture. To be honest, the mash will never be as smooth as canned pumpkin purée, but I like that the resulting dessert feels a bit more rustic and homey—I like it a whole, whole lot. Nancie McDermott is the author of 10 cookbooks, including Southern Cakes and Southern Pies. She resides, writes, and cooks in Chapel Hill, North Carolina.

Sweet Potato Pound Cake

Sweet Potato Pie with Toasted Marshmallow Topping

Sweet Potato Crème Brûlée

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3 ways to cook sweet potatoes Each of these methods produces excellent results with little to no significant differences in flavor and texture. Boiling sweet potatoes is standard for mashing, but I like baking them because I can easily fit in more than I need and have a baked sweet potato (or two or three) in the fridge to make a speedy lunch. Microwaving is another good choice and is by far the fastest way to cook them. No matter which method you use, let the sweet potatoes cool a bit (or completely) before peeling and mashing. You can make the mash a day ahead, and keep it covered and refrigerated.

sweet potato pound cake This handsome cake tastes great freshly made, but the ginger flavor comes through even more strongly on the second day. Bonus: Any leftover cake is delicious toasted for breakfast. Serves 10 Cooking spray 14/ 58 oz. (3¼ cups) unbleached all-purpose flour; more for the pan

2 tsp. baking powder

13/4 tsp. ground ginger ½ tsp. freshly grated nutmeg ½ tsp. baking soda ½ tsp. table salt ½ cup milk

BAKE Poke each sweet potato with a fork on all sides. Place on a foilor parchment-lined (for easy cleanup) rimmed baking sheet, and bake in a 400°F oven until easily pierced with a fork, about 1 hour. BOIL Bring whole, unpeeled sweet potatoes to a rolling boil in a large pot of water, reduce the heat, and simmer until easily pierced with a fork, 40 minutes to 1 hour. Drain well. MICROWAVE Poke each sweet potato with a fork on all sides. Cook on a microwave-safe plate on high power until easily pierced with a fork, about 12 minutes.

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1 tsp. vanilla extract



8 oz. (1 cup) unsalted butter, at room temperature



1 cup granulated sugar

1 cup firmly packed light brown sugar

4 large eggs, at room temperature



2 cups cooked, well-mashed sweet potatoes (from 2 large)



2 Tbs. confectioners’ sugar

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 350°F. Spray a 10- to 12-cup Bundt or tube pan with cooking spray, then dust with flour. In a medium bowl, whisk the flour, baking powder, 11/2 tsp. of the ginger, the nutmeg, baking soda, and salt. In a small bowl or measuring cup, combine the milk and vanilla. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat the butter and sugars on mediumlow speed until light and fluffy, 3 to 4 minutes. Add the eggs one at a time, beating well after each addition and scraping down the bowl as needed. Add the sweet potatoes, and mix until the batter is combined. (It may look curdled at this point.) Stop the mixer and scrape down the bowl. With the mixer on low speed, add half of the flour mixture, and mix until

just incorporated. Add half of the milk mixture, and beat on low until well blended, scraping down the bowl as needed. Repeat with the remaining flour and milk, beating on low until the batter is thick and smooth. Scrape the batter into the prepared pan, and spread it evenly. Bake until the cake springs back when pressed lightly and a wooden skewer inserted in the center comes out clean, 55 to 65 minutes. Cool the cake in the pan on a wire rack for 20 minutes. Run a thin knife around the edge to loosen the cake if the pan shape allows, and then carefully invert it onto a rack to cool completely. Combine the confectioners’ sugar and the remaining 1/4 tsp. ginger. Use a medium fine-mesh sieve to dust the top of the cake with the sugar mixture. Serve immediately, or keep wrapped at room temperature

Refine your mash

Though sweet potato desserts are by their nature rustic, strive for a smooth mash. Take a minute to remove and discard any stringy bits or discolored pieces before using.

Illustrations by Janet Stein

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sweet potato pie with toasted marshmallow topping A riff on the classic sweet-potato-andmarshmallow Thanksgiving side, this not-too-sweet pie has a light, billowy topping; together, they make a perfect bite. Torching the topping is optional but adds toasty notes and great color. Serves 8 to 10 FOR THE PIE ½ cup granulated sugar ½ tsp. ground cinnamon ½ tsp. ground ginger ½ tsp. freshly grated nutmeg ¼ tsp. table salt 1 cup evaporated milk 2 large eggs, at room temperature 2 Tbs. unsalted butter, melted 1 tsp. pure vanilla extract 2 cups cooked, well-mashed sweet potatoes (from 2 large potatoes) 1 9-inch pie crust (homemade or store-bought), blind-baked FOR THE TOPPING 2 large egg whites 1 cup granulated sugar ¼ cup light corn syrup ¼ tsp. cream of tartar ¼ tsp. table salt 1 tsp. pure vanilla extract BAKE THE PIE

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 400°F. In a small bowl, stir together the sugar, cinnamon, ginger, nutmeg, and salt. In a large bowl or in the bowl of a stand mixer, beat the evaporated milk, eggs, butter, and vanilla on medium speed until well combined. Add the spice mixture, and beat on low speed to combine well. Add the sweet potatoes and beat, increasing the speed, until the mixture is fairly smooth, 3 to 4 minutes. Pour the pie filling into the blind-baked crust, transfer to a rimmed baking sheet, and bake for 10 minutes. (If the edge begins to darken too much, use a pie shield.) Reduce the heat to 350°F and bake until the filling puffs up around the edges, loses its shine, and is set with a little jiggle in the center, 50 to 55 minutes. Transfer to a rack and cool to room temperature. If not serving right away, cover the pie with plastic wrap and refrigerate for up to two days.

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MAKE THE TOPPING

Fill a 4-quart saucepan about one-third full of water. Have ready a large stainless-steel mixing bowl that will fit over, but not touching, the water. Bring the water to a boil over high heat, then reduce the heat to maintain a lively simmer. Off the heat in the large bowl, begin whisking by hand the egg whites, sugar, corn syrup, cream of tartar, salt, and ¼ cup water. Switch to a hand-held electric mixer, and beat the ingredients at low speed until foamy and a little less grainy, 2 to 5 minutes. (Check for graininess by rubbing a little between your fingers.) Place the bowl over the simmering water. Beat at medium speed until the ingredients are warm and the sugar completely dissolves (it will feel smooth), about 1 minute. Increase the speed to high and beat, stopping occasionally to scrape the sides of the bowl, until the mixture is thick and shiny and can hold its shape, 4 to 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and add the vanilla extract. Beat on high speed until the mixture loses its shine and thickens just a little more, 1 to 2 minutes more. Transfer to a medium bowl and let cool to room temperature. For maximum fluffiness, use within an hour or two. (You won’t use all of it on the pie, but it keeps well, covered and refrigerated, for at least a week. Use any leftover as you would jarred fluff.) To top the pie, dip two spoons in warm water, shake dry, and use to dollop the topping on the pie. To give the topping some texture, swirl a small spoon over it. Brown the topping briefly with a kitchen torch, if you like, before serving. Touch here to get a recipe for pie crust with how-to photos at FineCooking.com.

Yes, you can You can use canned sweet potatoes (often called yams) for these desserts. Just pour off the syrup and rinse the potatoes before mashing; though the color may be lighter, the flavor is about the same as home-cooked. One 29-oz. can of sweet potato chunks yields about 2¼ cups mashed.

Photographs by Scott Phillips; food styling by Ronne Day

sweet potato cheesecake with gingersnap crust The candy-like bottom edge of the gingersnap crust makes a wonderful contrast to the creamy custard in this festive dessert. Serves 12 to 14

MAKE THE CRUST

1/2 cup firmly packed light or dark brown sugar

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 325°F. Generously coat the bottom and sides of a 9-inch springform pan with cooking spray. Line the bottom with parchment and spray again. Combine the crumbs, sugar, and salt in a medium bowl. Add the butter and combine thoroughly, first with a spoon and then with your fingers, until the crumbs are evenly moist. Press the mixture evenly over the bottom and partway up the sides of the pan. It will not go all the way up the sides and does not need to be even. Bake until light golden brown, 8 to 9 minutes; if the crust puffs up, gently press it back down.



BAKE THE cheesecake

FOR THE CRUST Cooking spray 2¼ cups gingersnap cookie crumbs (from about 11 oz. cookies) ¼ cup granulated sugar ¼ tsp. table salt 21/2 oz. (5 Tbs.) unsalted butter, melted FOR THE CHEESECAKE 3/4 cup granulated sugar

1 Tbs. cornstarch

3/4 tsp. ground ginger 1/4 tsp. ground cinnamon 1/8 tsp. table salt

3 8-oz. packages cream cheese, softened



3 large eggs, at room temperature

3/4 cup sour cream 11/2 cups cooked, well-mashed sweet potatoes (from 2 medium)

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In a medium bowl, combine the sugars, cornstarch, ginger, cinnamon, and salt with a fork. In a large mixing bowl with a hand mixer or in a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat the cream cheese on medium speed until soft and fluffy. Add the sugar mixture and mix to combine. On low speed, add the eggs one at a time, mixing well after each addition. Add the sour cream and mix just to incorporate. Add the sweet potatoes and mix well to combine.

Put the crust on a rimmed baking sheet. Pour the batter into the prepared crust, leaving a 1/4-inch space at the top of the pan; you may have some batter remaining. Bake until the cheesecake looks dry on the surface and is mostly set with just a little jiggle in the center, 50 to 60 minutes. The top may rise a bit but will settle as it cools. Turn off the oven and let the cheesecake rest in the oven with the door ajar by about 6 inches for 1 hour. Transfer to a wire rack to cool completely, about 2 hours more. Refrigerate for at least 8 hours and up to 2 days before serving. (Once cold, you can cover it loosely. It also freezes well wrapped; let it thaw in the refrigerator for a day before serving.) To serve, let stand at room temperature for an hour or so to take off the chill. Remove the side of the springform pan. Run a long, thin metal spatula under the cheesecake between the bottom crust and the parchment. Carefully slide the cake onto a flat serving plate. Run a thin knife under hot water, wipe it dry, and cut the cake into slices, heating and wiping the knife after each slice.

sweet potato crème brûlée Sweet potato adds subtle depth and gorgeous color to classic crème brûlée. Serves 6

2 cups heavy or whipping cream



7 large egg yolks (see p. 93 for what to do with the leftover whites)

2/3 cup granulated sugar; more for serving

1 tsp. pure vanilla extract

¼ tsp. table salt

1 cup cooked, well-mashed sweet potatoes (from 1 large)

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 325°F. Put 6 shallow 4-oz. crème brûlée dishes or ramekins in one large or two small roasting pans. Bring a kettle of water to a boil. In a 3-quart saucepan, bring the cream to a bare simmer over medium heat. Remove from the heat and set aside. In a large mixing bowl, whisk the egg yolks, sugar, vanilla, and salt until combined. Whisking slowly so as not to overaerate, add ½ cup of the warm cream to the egg mixture. Slowly whisk in the rest of the cream, then the sweet potatoes, until combined. Divide the mixture among the ramekins. Pull out the oven rack and place the roasting pan on the rack. Carefully pour the hot water from the kettle into the pan to come halfway up the sides of the ramekins. Bake until the custards are set and firm around the edges with a little jiggle in the center, 30 to 40 minutes. With tongs or a spatula, carefully transfer the ramekins to a rack to cool completely. Cover and refrigerate for at least 4 hours and up to 2 days. Just before serving, sprinkle one of the custards evenly with 2 to 3 tsp. sugar. (The more sugar, the thicker and darker the crust will be.) Pass a kitchen torch over the surface until the sugar melts and caramelizes. Repeat with the remaining custards. Allow the sugar to cool and harden briefly, then serve. Pair With: gewÜrztraminer  All of these desserts would pair well with lateharvest Gewürztraminers, which tend to be rich and sweet, too.

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t e s t k i tc h e n Tips/Techniques/Equipment/Ingredients/Glossary

tool

A sieve takes the cake Bundt cakes like the Sweet Potato Pound Cake on p. 84 look pretty with a dusting of confectioners’ sugar. For a nice, even coating over a large area, use a medium sieve, not a small one. Put a little sugar in the sieve, and tap the sieve while holding it over the cake. Be sure to put the cake plate on a piece of parchment for easy cleanup as some sugar will inevitably fall to the side of the cake and onto your work surface. —Ronne Day

Fo o d s t y l i n g b y R o n n e D a y

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TIP

Cutting cornbread in half evenly The cornbread-crumb crust for the Southwestern Squash and Black Bean Quiche on p. 55 calls for half of an 8x8-inch square of baked cornbread. For a more exact split, cut the square from corner to corner. Serve the remaining bread as a snack, or crumble it and freeze it airtight for the next time you want a cornbread crust. —Diana Andrews

TECHNIQUE

How to candy pecans You can find good-quality candied pecans at the store to use to top the French toast on p. 57, but they’re also quick and easy to make at home. Simply cook ¼ cup granulated sugar in a large skillet over low heat without stirring until melted. Add ⅓ cup pecan halves and continue to cook until the sugar is a deep amber. Using a wooden or silicone spatula, toss the nuts until coated, then transfer to a parchment-lined baking sheet. (Don’t touch them; they’re hot!) Let cool until hardened, then break apart with your hands, or chop with a knife. —R.D.

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Fo o d s t y l i n g b y D i a n a A n d r e w s

TIP

Freeze chipotle purée for future yummy uses The adobo butter used on the grilled skirt steak on p. 40 gets its spicy-savory flavor from puréed canned chipotles. You’ll end up making more purée than you need for the recipe, but it will keep for weeks in the refrigerator and for months in the freezer. Adding just a little spices up all kinds of dishes. Use it to: • liven up scrambled eggs or an omelet

INGREDIENT

• flavor vegetables before roasting

Don’t chuck those egg whites

• boost your favorite tomato or barbecue sauce • amp up a braise, stew, chili, or soup • brighten up mayonnaise to use as a dip or sandwich spread • spice up guacamole • spike your next batch of Bloody Marys —D.A. and R.D.

You’re going to have a lot of egg whites left over after making the Sweet Potato Crème Brûlée on p. 89—almost a cup, in fact. Don’t just throw them out. Covered and refrigerated, they will last up to four days. My favorite way to use them up is in a financier-style cake, which is usually made with ground nuts and whipped egg whites. Such cakes are light and delicious, and they freeze well, too. See FineCooking.com/extras for a Brown Butter Almond Cake. Meringues and meringue cookies are other options as are, perhaps obviously, egg-white omelets. And if you’re looking to make another sweet potato dessert, use the whites for the marshmallow topping for the Sweet Potato Pie on p. 86. —Joanne Smart

TOOL

Sizing up cast-iron pans Ever wonder what that number on the handle of your cast-iron skillet means? It’s not, as you might think, the size of the pan. The number actually refers to the diameter of the pan in inches across the bottom of the pan, not across its flared top, which is the industry standard way to measure skillet size. So what gives? The number on the handle (and sometimes bottom) of the pan has a history: Originally, cast-iron cookware was made to fit into the openings on top of woodstoves; the same

Photographs by Scott Phillips

folks who made the stoves, including Griswold and Lodge, made pans that would fit into the holes positioned over the fire. That’s why even today, the item number for a 12-inch Lodge skillet is L10SK3. According to Lodge: “The 10 comes the days from when cast-iron pots and pans were sized to fit on the numbered eyes of a woodstove. The L10SK3 was for a #10 stove eye.” So instead of trusting any numbers you may see on a skillet, trust a ruler instead— and measure across the top. —J.S.

F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M

93

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How to keep your tahini together With our ceramics, fire becomes flavor.

Comfort so beautiful... You’ll forget if you love it for how it looks, or how it feels.

Pete Evans, the host of our TV show, Moveable Feast with Fine Cooking, loves the Middle Eastern sesame paste called tahini. (You’ll find some in the dressing for his Herb Salad with Pistachios and Raisins on p. 48.) Like Pete, we also like the earthy flavor of tahini, but what we don’t like is the strength it takes to stir it once the oil has separated from the ground seeds, as shown above in the can and below out of the can. You can keep tahini emulsified for weeks by simply giving it a whir in a food processor or blender. After processing, refrigerate it airtight. Next time you need it, there will be little to no oil on top to be stirred in. —D.A.

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FINE COOKING • OCT/NOV 2016

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Pasta reminder

Too many times, we drain pasta without remembering to save some of the cooking water, but that hot, starchy water is great for loosening pasta sauces. To help you remember, put a measuring cup in your colander. It will act as a visual cue to scoop out and reserve some of the pasta cooking water before you drain it. —R.D.

INGREDIENT

What’s new in cranberries This time of year, we reach for dried cranberries because they give dishes an autumnal feel. Paradise Meadows has made using them more convenient and tastier with two new products: their Cooking & Baking Cranberries and their Whole Jumbo Cranberries. The former come precut in a julienne, which means no more dealing with the sticky task of chopping them. Look for them in the baking aisle. The latter, with their larger size and supple texture (thanks in part to a different processing procedure), are perfect in salads and stuffings (or for topping the cornbread French toast on p. 57). Look for them in the baking aisle or where other dried fruit is sold. —J.S.

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INGREDIENT

Meet sagnarelli The Pasta with Sausage and Kale on p. 32 calls for a short, flat pasta, and while farfalle is fine, we really like the look and texture of sagnarelli, which is what we chose to show in the photo. The short, ruffled ribbon pasta looks like baby lasagne sheets. Other unusual shapes to be on the lookout for

in the short, flat family of pastas include corzetti (a round stamped pasta), taccozzette (flat squares), and maltagliati (short flat strips with unruffled edges). You may need to look to premium pasta brands to find these shapes, but they’re worth it. —J.S.

INGREDIENT

Good rye

TECHNIQUE

Skinning hazelnuts The ingredient list for the Amber Ale Lentil Salad on p. 75 calls for toasted, skinned hazelnuts. While the world would not end if you didn’t bother skinning the nuts, there are a few good reasons why you should: The skins can be bitter, they can make a dish look dark, and they can get stuck in your teeth. Fortunately, the skins—or most of them, anyway—are easy to remove once the nuts are toasted. Simply wrap the hot nuts in a clean kitchen towel and let them sit for about 5 minutes; the resulting steam helps loosen the skins. Then vigorously rub the nuts against themselves in the towel. Be persistent and try to get at least half of the skins off. —J.S.

96

FINE COOKING • OCT/NOV 2016

Rye berries, featured in the Rye Berry Succotash with Mixed Vegetables on p. 50, are berries in the same way that farro is a kind of wheat berry—in other words, a whole grain. Light green in color, rye berries are nutty and a little sweet with the subtle flavor of rye and a texture, when cooked, that’s pleasantly chewy. Look for them where other whole grains are sold, and cook them in ample salted water until tender. Use them in place of brown rice or other whole grains for something a little different. —J.S.

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The Coffee Lover’s Coffee Filter. Is Your Coffee Really Natural if it’s Filtered through a White Processed, Bleached Filter?

RECIPE

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Natural Coffee Hazelnut Milkshake • ½ cup cold or room temperature strong Makes 2 Servings coffee brewed with If You Care 1. Brew coffee using If You Care Coffee Filters (we recomCoffee Filters mend 2 tbsp for every 6 ounces of water) and let it come • 1 cup vanilla to room temperature or chill in the refrigerator. ice cream • ¼ cup milk 2. In a blender, place the coffee, ice cream, hazelnut spread • 3 tbsp hazelnut spread and ice, then blend until smooth. • 1 ½ cups ice • 2 tsp fudge or 3. In the bottom of each glass, scoop in or drizzle the fudge chocolate syrup or chocolate syrup, then divide the coffee mixture into • Whipped cream and the glasses. Top with whipped cream and chocolate chocolate shavings shavings and enjoy! for topping

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COMING SOON TO PBS! ALL NEW SEASON 4! Moveable Feast with Fine Cooking returns for Season 4 with host Pete Evans stirring up fun. Join us for pop-up feasts across the country – new locations, new chefs and artisans, and fabulous new dishes. For showtimes, recipes, and more, go to

finecooking.tv

NEW! Recipes from Season 1 and 2 available in our cookbook. Episodes from Season 1 and 2 available on DVD. Visit TauntonStore.com

“Moveable Feast with Fine Cooking” is a production of WGBH Boston and distributed by American Public Television.

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fine cooking • oct/nov 2016

© 2016 The Taunton Press

technique

Get the cover look We used a simple technique to give a sparkly, festive look to the sweet potato pie (p. 86) on our cover. Here’s how you can get the look, too: Save and refrigerate the pie-dough trimmings, blindbake and cool the crust as directed, but don’t crimp the edge of the crust. Roll the reserved dough out a little, then cut out 1-inch circles; you’ll need about 45. Brush the edge of the blind-baked crust with beaten egg white. Overlap the cutouts around the edge; they should cover the outside edge of the pie plate and hang down into the crust about ½ inch. Press gently to adhere and then refrigerate. Just before filling the pie, brush the decorated edge with egg white and sprinkle with demerara or turbinado sugar. Fill and bake the pie as directed. —R.D.

The Poetry of Sea Salt Fleur de Sel is an incredibly rare and delicate sea salt crystal with the complexity of a snowflake and nuanced whisper of the sea. Under perfect conditions it “blooms” on the sea surface in a few areas of the world, most notably, Camargue, and is quickly harvested before it disappears in a breeze. The moist crystals have a subtle but profound impact on taste buds; they are sprinkled on food just before eating to elevate a dish from a meal to a culinary experience. Le Saunier de Camargue salt artisans are renowned for managing our centuries-old salt beds and harvesting the delicate crystals by hand following time-proven ancient traditions.

Arranging dough circles takes some time but is easy to do.

Coarse sugar adds sparkle.

The finished edge looks impressive.

f i n e c o o k i n g .c o m

99

SOURCES • Chorizo sausage, $15.95 for 7 oz., latienda.com, 800-710-4304.

• Emile Henry ruffled pie dish, $49.95,

williams-sonoma.com, 877-812-6235.

• Assorted whole-grain pastas, prices vary,

Sweet on Sweet Potatoes, p. 82

communitygrains.com, 510-547-3737; baiapasta.com, 510-336-6044; sfoglini .com, 917-338-5955; jovialfoods.com, 877-642-0644.

• Nordic Ware Jubilee 10-cup capacity Bundt pan, $50, nordicware.com,

877-466-7342.

• 4-oz. crème brûlée ramekins, $12.99 for 4, bonjourproducts.com, 800-226-6568.

Steam-Roasted Vegetables, p. 64 • Dukkah spice, $6.25 for 1 oz.,

myspicesage.com, 877-890-5244.

Cooking with Beer, p. 70 • Le Creuset round Dutch oven, in Carib-

bean, $320 for 5.5-qt. size, lecreuset.com, 877-418-5547.

• Small bowls, $20, bantamtileworks.com, 860-361-9306.

Cornbread and Beyond, p. 52 • Lodge 10¼-inch cast-iron skillet, $25, lodgemfg.com, 423-837-7181.

• Assorted beers, prices vary, bevmo.com, 877-772-3866.

Turkey Two Ways, p. 60 • Divided platter, $125, bantamtileworks .com, 860-361-9306.

Learn to Love Whole-Grain Pasta, p. 76 • Medium bowls, $28, and medium slip

• Gravy boat with lid, $48, bantamtileworks.com, 860-361-9306.

bowls, $35, bantamtileworks.com,

860-361-9306.

• Red poppy linen towel, $14.99,

kitchenkapers.com, 800-455-5567.

• Indian Head Old Fashioned Stone Ground Corn Meal, prices vary from $10 to $15 for 2 lb., amazon.com, 888-280-4331.

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FINE COOKING • OCT/NOV 2016

Photographs by Scott Phillips

nutrition Recipe

Calories Fat Cal (kcal) (kcal)

Total Fat (g)

Sat Fat Poly Fat Mono (g) (g) Fat (g)

Chol (mg)

Sodium (mg)

Carb (g)

Fiber (g)

Sugar (g)

Protein (g)

0

25

19

2

15

0

try this, p. 19 Satsuma Cranberry Sauce

80

0

0

0

0

0

brussels sprouts, p. 27 Hot and Sour Brussels Sprouts

120

35

4

0.5

0.5

2.5

0

180

19

6

7

5

Roasted Brussels Sprouts and Mushroom Frittata

330

220

24

11

2.5

10

235

470

10

3

3

19

Shredded Brussels Sprouts Salad w/Oranges and Walnuts

110

60

7

1

4

2

5

380

9

3

5

4

make it tonight, p. 31 Pasta with Sausage and Kale

500

150

17

4.5

2

9

20

930

65

5

3

22

Baked Cod with Tomato-Bacon “Jam”

260

90

10

3.5

1.5

4

100

930

11

1

6

30

Cheesy Skillet Potatoes

200

80

9

4

0.5

4

20

310

22

2

1

7

Broiled Mushrooms with Goat Cheese and Thyme

130

100

11

3.5

1

6

10

140

4

1

1

6

Sautéed Baby Bok Choy with Caraway

50

30

3

1

0

1.5

10

300

2

1

1

4

Pork Chops and Apples over Cheddar Polenta

670

270

30

15

1.5

10

140

570

52

3

22

46

Ham and Mushroom Quesadilla

510

250

28

14

2

11

75

1190

34

2

2

27

Farro, Chicken, and Grape Salad

390

90

10

1.5

3.5

4

40

520

52

7

13

24

Grilled Skirt Steak with Adobo Butter

260

160

17

7

1.5

7

90

390

2

0

1

26

Moveable Feast, p. 47 Herb Salad with Pistachios and Raisins

270

190

22

3

5

12

0

200

18

2

9

5

Lowcountry Short Rib Stew

410

150

17

5

1.5

8

225

510

19

4

11

44

Rye Berry Succotash with Mixed Vegetables

170

50

6

3.5

0.5

1.5

15

280

23

5

2

7

cornbread, p. 52 Cornbread Batter

310

150

17

10

1

4.5

80

230

35

2

8

5

Southwestern Squash and Black Bean Quiche

380

200

22

12

2

7

165

470

31

4

9

15

Cornbread Stuffing with Chorizo, Mushrooms, and Scallions

740

460

51

25

4

18

210

1010

48

4

10

23

Maple-Bacon Cornbread French Toast

1230

490

54

27

5

17

390

870

164

6

94

25

Apple Cornbread Skillet Cobbler

500

130

15

9

1

4

65

180

88

6

54

6

Maple-Brined Turkey Breast with Mushroom Gravy

680

270

30

10

6

10

230

870

12

0

7

86

Braised Turkey Legs with Crisp Pancetta and Parsley

320

130

14

4

2.5

7

155

500

4

1

2

35 3

turkey, p. 60

steam-roasted vegetables, p. 64 Steam-Roasted Carrots with Yogurt and Dukkah

200

110

13

2

1.5

9

5

430

20

5

11

Steam-Roasted Roots with Maple, Sriracha, and Thyme

180

90

10

1.5

1

7

0

270

22

4

13

2

Steam-Roasted Indian-Spiced Cauliflower

220

160

18

2.5

10

4

0

250

14

6

5

6

Steam-Roasted Potatoes with Oregano and Lemon

190

60

7

1

1

5

0

150

30

3

2

3

Steam-Roasted Butternut Squash with Crispy Sage

210

110

13

4.5

4.5

3

15

150

26

8

5

2

cooking with Beer, p. 70 Pale Ale Pulled-Chicken Sliders

440

190

21

4.5

9

6

80

560

33

1

7

27

Porter Bacon Mac & Cheese

570

280

31

17

2

9

90

740

45

2

4

24

Lemon-Cardamom Cookies with Saison Glaze

150

45

5

3

0

1.5

20

70

25

0

18

1

Amber Ale Lentil Salad with Hazelnuts and Cherries

470

220

25

3

3

18

0

140

43

13

9

16 13

whole-grain pasta, p. 76 Whole-Grain Spaghetti with Mushrooms, Bacon, Rosemary

280

50

6

1.5

1

2.5

5

600

47

6

3

Whole-Grain Penne with Sun-Dried Tomatoes and Corn

370

130

15

9

1

3.5

35

880

54

6

3

11

Whole-Grain Farfalle with Spicy Shrimp and Roasted Peppers

490

170

19

6

2.5

10

135

680

51

4

5

29

Whole-Grain Pasta e Fagioli w/Squash and Sage Pesto

450

190

21

3.5

2.5

14

5

1190

50

8

6

15

sweet-potato desserts, p. 82 Sweet Potato Pound Cake

560

190

21

13

1.5

6

125

320

85

3

46

8

Sweet Potato Pie with Toasted Marshmallow Topping

340

130

15

9

1

4

75

270

48

2

30

6

Sweet Potato Cheesecake with Gingersnap Crust

440

230

26

14

1.5

7

110

380

47

1

30

6

Sweet Potato Crème Brûlée

510

310

35

20

2

11

325

150

45

1

40

5

40

20

2.5

0

0.5

1.5

0

0

5

0

5

0

test kitchen, p. 91 Candied Pecans (per 1 Tbs.) The nutritional analyses have been calculated by a registered dietitian at Nutritional Solutions in Melville, New York. When a recipe gives a choice of ingredients, the first choice is the one used. Optional ingre­

dients with measured amounts are included; ingredients with­out specific quantities are not. Analyses are per serving; when a range of ingredient amounts or servings is given, the smaller amount or portion

is used. When the quantities of salt and pepper aren’t specified, the analysis is based on 1/4 tsp. salt and 1/8 tsp. pepper per serving for entrées, and 1/8 tsp. salt and 1/16 tsp. pepper per serving for side dishes.

fin e cooking . com

101

recipe index Cover

Pasta

Sweet Potato Pie with Toasted Marshmallow Topping��������������������� 86

Pasta with Sausage and Kale����������32

Starters, Salads & Soups

Whole-Grain Farfalle with Spicy Shrimp and Roasted Peppers������� 80

Farro, Chicken, and Grape Salad��38 Herb Salad with Pistachios and Raisins��������������������������������������������������� 48

Porter Bacon Mac & Cheese����������73

Whole-Grain Penne with Sun-Dried Tomatoes and Corn�����79

Pale-Ale Pulled Chicken Sliders����72

Whole-Grain Pasta e Fagioli with Butternut Squash and Sage Pesto�������������������������������������������� 81

Shredded Brussels Sprouts Salad with Oranges, Toasted Walnuts, and Crisp Prosciutto������ 30

Whole-Grain Spaghetti with Wild Mushrooms, Bacon, and Rosemary����������������������������������������������78

Whole-Grain Pasta e Fagioli with Butternut Squash and Sage Pesto�������������������������������������������� 81

Meatless Mains

Seafood

Southwestern Squash and Black Bean Quiche with Cornbread Crust��������������������������������55

Baked Haddock with Tomato-Bacon “Jam”������������������������32 Whole-Grain Farfalle with Spicy Shrimp and Roasted Peppers������� 80

Poultry Braised Turkey Legs with Crisp Pancetta and Parsley������������������������63 Farro, Chicken, and Grape Salad��38 Maple-Brined Turkey Breast with Mushroom Gravy�������������������������������62 Pale Ale Pulled-Chicken Sliders����72

Roasted Brussels Sprouts and Mushroom Frittata�����������������������������29

Amber Ale Lentil Salad with Hazelnuts and Cherries�������������������75 Broiled Mushrooms with Goat Cheese and Thyme���������������������������33 Cheesy Skillet Potatoes�������������������33 Cornbread Stuffing with Chorizo, Wild Mushrooms, and Scallions����56

Beef & Pork

Satsuma Cranberry Sauce��������������20

Grilled Skirt Steak with Adobo Butter���������������������������������������������������� 40

Sautéed Baby Bok Choy with Caraway���������������������������������������33

Ham and Mushroom Quesadilla���36

Shredded Brussels Sprouts Salad with Oranges, Toasted Walnuts, and Crisp Prosciutto������ 30

Pork Chops with Apples over Cheddar Polenta��������������������������������34

Steam-Roasted Butternut Squash with Crispy Sage�������������������������������� 69 Steam-Roasted Carrots with Yogurt and Dukkah���������������������������� 64 Steam-Roasted Indian-Spiced Cauliflower�������������������������������������������67

102

fine cooking • oct/nov 2016

Desserts Apple Cornbread Skillet Cobbler��58 Lemon-Cardamom Cookies with Saison Glaze�������������������������������74 Sweet Potato Cheesecake with Gingersnap Crust������������������������������ 88 Sweet Potato Crème Brûlée�����������89 Sweet Potato Pie with Toasted Marshmallow Topping��������������������� 86 Sweet Potato Pound Cake������������� 84

Extras Candied Pecans����������������������������������92 Cornbread Batter�������������������������������54

Vegetarian: May contain eggs and dairy ingredients Make ahead: Can be

completely prepared ahead (may need handsoff cooking, baking, or reheating to serve) Quick: Under 30 minutes

Hot and Sour Brussels Sprouts�����28 Rye Berry Succotash with Mixed Vegetables��������������������������������������������50

Maple-Bacon Cornbread French Toast������������������������������������������������������� 57

Steam-Roasted Roots with Maple, Sriracha, and Thyme������������������������ 66

Side Dishes

Porter Bacon Mac & Cheese����������73

Lowcountry Short Rib Stew����������� 49

Steam-Roasted Potatoes with Oregano and Lemon������������������������ 68

What to drink

with what’s in this issue Select recipes in this issue include pairings by our drinks editor, Jill Silverman Hough.

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