Garden Railways 2013-12

ONLINE CONTENT CODE: GRW1312 Enter this code at: www.gardenrailways.com/code to gain access to web-exclusive content

CONTENTS

DECEMBER 2013 VOLUME 30, NUMBER 6

FEATURES

• Build durable dirt roads 70 • How to use rail joiners 14

32 The 30th anniversary of Garden Railways

• Fun in the front yard 44

Ruminations on three decades of the magazine by Vance Bass

• 7 products reviewed 84 • Advice for bridge supports 22

34 Staff corner: Nancy Norris

• Understand DCC decoders 40

Building and maintaining our club’s outreach trailer by Nancy Norris

• Build a workbench 36

36 Build a large-scale workbench

This project maximizes functionality in minimal space by Jim Kottkamp

40 DCC for large scale: A beginner’s guide Part 3: How decoders work by Kevin Strong

DEPARTMENTS 6 From the Editor

Notes from Marc

COVER STORY

44 The Tortoise & Lizard Bash Garden Railroad Visit a well-developed, 1950s diesel line by Toddy Brody

8 Notes & news

What’s new for the garden railroader

12 Letters

52 Scale and gauge

Revisiting the mysteries of this confusing topic

54 Modifying a Ruby to 7⁄8" scale

Part 1: The design, the saddletank, and more by Eric Schade

61 Make a no-solder metal railing

Standard hardware-store materials do the trick by Steve Kamm

Views from our readers

14 Garden railway basics Track power: Part 2

22 Greening your railway Aesthetic abutments

29 Plant portraits

Weeping Norway spruce

64 Visit the Sundance Central

70 Miniscaping

How to model unimproved roads

75 Raising steam

Answers to more live-steam questions

77 Events

Upcoming shows and exhibits

81 Online station

A large-scale guide to the Internet

84 Product reviews

Hartland streetcar, G-Scale Graphics Railboss 4, and more

98 If I’d only known. . .

A 1:20.3-scale modular railroad owned by a club by Frank Palmer

Wood isn’t forever

ONLINE BONUS • Icing station drawings in 1:29 scale • Large-scale holiday displays article

Image suggestions: Staff corner: GRW-SC1213_03 Miniscaping: GRW-MS1213_07 Greening: GRW-GR1213_05 DCC: GRW-D1213_02

34

• Brick and frame signal tower drawings in 1:29 scale • Hartland Birney streetcar video www.GardenRailways.com

22

70

GARDEN RAILWAYS (ISSN 0747-0622, USPS 713-710) is published bimonthly by Kalmbach Publishing Co., 21027 Crossroads Circle. P.O. Box 1612, Waukesha WI 53187-1612. Periodicals postage paid at Waukesha WI, and additional offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to GARDEN RAILWAYS, PO Box 1612, Waukesha WI 53187-1612. Canada Publication Mail Agreement # 40010760

FROM THE EDITOR

30 years and counting

Editor Marc Horovitz Production Editor Rene Schweitzer Horticultural Editor Nancy Norris Technical Editor Vance Bass Contributing Editors Don Parker, Kevin Strong, Jef Young Art Director LuAnn Williams Belter Senior Graphic Designer Chuck Braasch Corporate Circulation Director Michael Barbee Group Circulation Manager Kristin Johnson Circulation Coordinator Carly Witkowski Single Copy Sales Director Jerry Burstein Production Manager Helene Tsigistras Production Coordinator Jodi Jeranek

T

6 Garden Railways | December 2013

Advertising 888-558-1544 Fax: 262-796-0126 Group Ad Sales Manager Scott Redmond Advertising Sales Representative Paul Steinhafel E-mail: [email protected] william zuback

his issue of Garden Railways magazine marks 30 years in print. Prior to writing this editorial, I went back and reread previous editorials that I had written on significant anniversaries—10 years, 15 years, etc.—just to make sure I didn’t repeat myself too badly. In those earlier offerings, I found that there was already a certain amount of what I considered to be justifiable repetition, and some of that will be repeated here as well. The fact that GR is 30 years old may not amaze you in the same way that it amazes me but, then, I have spent every second of those 30 years with the magazine: attending its birth; watching it grow, mature, and go out into the world; and nursing it over the inevitable pitfalls that threaten an enterprise such as this. So, given all that, yes, I’m both amazed and gratified that the magazine has gone on as long as it has and that our hobby, once the arcane pursuit of an obscure few, has grown into the delight of tens of thousands. One of the recurring themes in previous editorials, and one that must be repeated here, has to do with people, the most important of whom are you, our readers and fellow hobbyists, who have, through your efforts and support, made all of this possible. There is truly no way I can thank you enough. Being a part of the far flung and ever growing garden-railway family has been one of the most fulfilling experiences of my life. On previous anniversaries, garden railroading’s star was in its ascendancy. The hobby was growing, the manufacturer base was expanding, and the economy was good. Today, as you know, things look a little less certain. Growth in the hobby seems somewhat flat, manufacturers are struggling, and the economy seems finally to be climbing out of the slump that has engulfed it for the past many years. However, in my position as editor of this journal, garden railroading today is still very much alive and vibrant. On a weekly basis, I continue to receive articles on creative garden railways and imaginative how-to stories that cover every aspect of the hobby, including some I’d never even thought of. It’s you, the participant, who continue to drive the hobby and this publication. I feel that the quality of the material I’m able to offer has steadily risen over the years and it shows no signs of slacking off. I derive great pleasure from having been able to present your work and ideas to our fellow garden railroaders for the past 30 years and I look forward to many more. It is our hope and expectation that an improved economy will create a more positive future for all of us. A rising tide raises all ships—that sort of thing. Whatever happens, though, the tight knit garden-railway community has become self-supporting in so many ways. It is that human bond, that unseverable link with each other, that is our most important legacy.

Advertising Service Representative Cassie Spoerl E-mail: [email protected] Selling Garden Railways magazine or products in your store 800-558-1544, Press 3 Outside U.S. and Canada: 262-796-8776, ext. 818 Fax: 262-798-6592 E-mail: [email protected] Website: www.Retailers.Kalmbach.com Customer service inquiries 800-533-6644 Weekdays, 8:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. Central time Outside U.S. and Canada: 262-796-8776, ext. 421 Fax: 262-796-1615 E-mail: [email protected] Please include your name, mailing address, and telephone number with any correspondence Subscriptions and product orders 800-533-6644 Weekdays, 8:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. Central time Editorial inquiries Marc Horovitz, Editor Phone: 303-377-7785 E-mail: [email protected] PO Box 460222 Denver CO 80246 or Rene Schweitzer 262-796-8776 Fax: 262-796-1142 E-mail: [email protected] PO Box 1612 21027 Crossroads Circle Waukesha WI 53187-1612 Kalmbach Publishing Co. President Charles R. Croft Associate Publisher Neil Besouglof Vice President, Advertising Scott Stollberg Vice President, Editorial Kevin P. Keefe Vice President, Marketing Daniel R. Lance Corporate Art Director Maureen M. Schimmel Managing Art Director Michael Soliday SUBSCRIPTION PRICE: One year (6 issues), $29.95; two years (12 issues), $56.00; three years (18 issues), $80. Canadian: one year, $37.95; two years, $69.95; three years, $99.95. Canadian price includes additional postage and GST, payable in U.S. funds. International: one year, $39.95; two years, $76; three years, $110. Foreign price includes additional postage, payable in U.S. funds. BN #12271 3209 RT. EXPEDITED DELIVERY SERVICE SURCHARGES: Domestic First Class $15.00/yr., Canadian Air $15.00/yr., International Air $35.00/yr. Copyright © 2013 Kalmbach Publishing Co.; all rights reserved. Material in this publication may not be reproduced in any form without permission. Not responsible for unsolicited materials. Title registered as trademark. Printed in U.S.A.

NOTES & NEWS

Accessories & details

products

Engines & rolling stock

Bachmann Industries, 1400 East Erie Ave., Philadelphia PA 19124, has announced the release of a Peter Witt streetcar in 1:29 scale for gauge-1 track. The car is DCC ready, with factoryinstalled 21-pin and 8-pin sockets for the DCC decoder installation of your choice; can be operated on track power or overhead wire (trolley wheel compatible with LGB overhead wire); is sound ready, with factory-installed speaker; and is supplied with a precision can motor. Several company names and liveries are available, including Baltimore Transit Co. (#91701), Toronto (#91703), Los Angeles Railway (#91702), and Chicago Surface Lines (#91704). Price: $399. Website: www. bachmanntrains.com Dave Frediani, 20656 Lora Lane, Sonora CA 95370, is offering a 7⁄8"-scale boxcar for gauge1 track. The car is based on a twofoot gauge, twoaxle boxcar from the 1880s. It is built from 1⁄8" styrene, with simulated planking, etched wood grain inside and out, opening doors, a rounded, textured roof, and link-and-pin couplers. The body is built to fit an Accucraft two-axle flat car (included). Price: $139. E-mail: [email protected]

Bridges & structures Stoneworks, PO Box 190, Shell Knob, MO 65747, is offering a kit for Opening Firehouse Doors in 1:24 scale. The 12-light door is the working version of the company’s #4206 door. Included are

8 Garden Railways | December 2013

eight sets of brass bolts and nuts, handles, and additional inside-window detail. The door fits in a rough opening 5.5" wide x 5.75" high. Components are laser cut in .06" white styrene and clear acrylic. Price: $14.30. Website: www.RRStoneworks.com

J. S. Woodcrafts, Lomita CA 90717, has added a vintage crane to its line of construction vehicles. The crane is available in a color of your choice. The scale is approximately 1:24. Visit the company’s website for more information: www. jswoodcrafts.net

Track products

Colorado Model Structures, 13455 3740 Road, Hotchkiss CO 81419, is offering Market Street Industrial (#CMS3022msi1). This 1:24-scale kit is injection molded from high-impact polystyrene. The structure is based on buildings depicted in photos from the early part of the 19th century in West Virginia. The finished building is 30" wide, 71⁄2" deep, and 163⁄8" high. Price: $69.95. Website: www.coloradomodel.com

Ozark Miniatures, 3461 S 5225 W, Cedar City UT 84720, has a station outhouse kit in 1:20.3 scale. This double-stall structure has laser-cut parts, trim, roofing, and interior supplies. For full information, visit www.ozarkminiatures.com

Peter Nuskey, 1552 Bristol Road, Southampton PA 18966, has code-625 aluminum rail for those who are building larger-scale lines. The 5⁄8"-tall rail, which is the same height as the old Buddy-L rail, is available in 10' lengths. Price: 62¢ per foot + s&h.

Electronics & software

Model Rectifier Corporation, 80 Newfield Ave., Edison NJ 08837, has released its new Throttlepack 9950 (#0001320). The power pack is rated at 125 watts, enough power for operating all DC scales including large scale. The pack also features a backlit LCD screen that shows

1:24 scale kits & parts, for G-Scale streetcars. LRP#019 Trolley Snow Sweeper Pedestal Kit Cast Brass $33.00 plus shipping Now Available

phone:

650-355-4815 noon – 7:00 pm PST

Call for Catalog. Or visit on the web. info.lrp @comcast.net

www.lightrailproducts.com

NOTES & NEWS CONTINUED readouts for voltage and amps, as well as a momentum on-off button that simulates the lag time of a full-size train during a throttle increase or braking. Other control features include a brake button and a direction button. The 9950 offers an optional walkaround control. Price: $279.98. Website: www.modelrectifier.com

Tools

HARTFORD PRODUCTS, INC. www.hartfordproducts.com

Visit our website to see the new

SP Narrow Gauge full kits and trucks

Southern Pacific Narrow Gauge 28 foot boxcar

6224 Acorn Ridge Trail Hillsborough, NC 27278 (919) 471-5937 [email protected] Visa – MasterCard

10 Garden Railways | December 2013

Grex, 1090 Monterey Pass Rd., Monterey Park CA 91754, has introduce the Ergonomic Airbrush Grip Set, an ergonomically designed, two-piece system that easily slips onto the airbrush main body and trigger. Made of a silicon-based polymer that’s impervious to most solvents, it’s soft enough to relieve your finger and hand pressure points, yet firm enough to provide structure for increased holding area. These are available in two forms: Genesis. XGi, a top gravity version and Genesis. XSi, a side feed version. Each version is available in three different models with either a 0.2mmm, 0.3mm, or 0.5mm nozzle size. With the use of the AD31 and AD32 adapters, these airbrushes are adaptable to other manufacturers’ bottles and cups. Visit the company’s website for complete information: www.grexusa.com

over the coming months, the next item being an open wagon, which should be available on the company’s website now: www.hglw.co.uk Shawmut Car Shops, 307 North Michael Street, St. Marys PA 15857, has issued a new catalog containing custom large-scale decal sets, custom paint work for large-scale cars and locomotives, and custom-built items. The 30-page color catalog is available for $7, refundable with order of $50 or more. Website: http://shawmutcarshops.com Micro-Mark, www.micromark.com, is now offering acrylic hobby paint in popular modeling colors. The paint is blended by acrylic-paint formulators Acrylicos Vallejo to Micro-Mark’s specifications. These provide perfect matches to PollyScale paint colors. Paints are water-based for safety and easy clean-up and can be airbrushed onto any surface straight from the bottle (no thinning necessary). Finelyground pigments provide smooth application and superior coverage with a thin coat. Paint is supplied in plastic squeeze bottles with dropper-style tips for easy dispensing. A total of 28 colors is currently available. For pricing and complete information, visit Micro-Mark’s website. in MeMoriaM

It is with regret that we must report the death of Manfred Regner on July 21, 2013, at the age of 63. Herr Regner was the head of Regner Dampf- und Eisenbahntechnik, Germany’s leading manufacturer of live-steam locomotives. The company had just celebrated its 35th anniversary. We offer our condolences to Herr Regner’s family and friends.

Miscellaneous errata

Houstoun Gate Locomotive Works, 66 Buchanan Crescent, Livingston EH54 7EE, United Kingdom, has taken over the production of the Busted Bricks line of rolling stock, as reviewed in the August 2013 issue of Garden Railways. The company intends to expand the product line

In the August 2013 “Product reviews,” the website for Jacksons Miniatures was printed incorrectly. The actual website address is: www.jacksonsminiatures.com We regret this error and any confusion it may have caused.

LETTERS Movie-star train car?

a year. Thanks in advance to any of the readers who may have found a solution to this problem. —Jim Petropulos, Wilmington, California, [email protected]

Bridge out

I was hoping readers might be able to help identify a car and the movie it may have been in. I bought a batch of largescale cars from an estate sale. The previous owner’s son stated that two of the cars were used in a movie but wasn’t sure which one. Attached is a picture of one of the cars. Both are identical and measure 9" long, 4" high, and 4" wide. On the bottom is a plate that states, “Produced by Mark Gregory Studios and Hickory Engineering, 1076 E. Gull Lake Dr., Agusta MI 49012.” Any information would be greatly appreciated. —Walt Zange, [email protected]

US vs. European garden railroading Garden railroading in the UK appears to be on the increase. There seems to be a drift from generic 16mm-scale models in the direction of scale or near-scale models. A look at models from Accucraft UK and Roundhouse, and even LGB’s more recent models, appear to confirm this direction. Gauge 1 is also on the uptake. When looking at some of the US club newsletters, there seems to be a move to what I would call “fun” railroading. This seems to be more a case of visiting each others’ railways but without much importance being placed on scale modeling. For example, some bridges have no foundations at either end or a line will run over a suspension bridge hanging in space. It looks so much like fun all the way. The average German modeler would want the entire railway to fit together well. For instance, a Saxon railway is Saxon and a non-Saxon engine visiting the line might be tolerated, but does

12 Garden Railways | December 2013

not really fit in. I’m not knocking these tendencies in any way, I’m just sort of making mental notes as I go along. —Bert Horner, Austria

Model paint There has been a horrific blowup about Testors and their decision to stop producing four valuable paint lines. But what about Scalecoat? In particular, I use Scalecoat II, which is formulated for plastic. I have used this paint for years both in HO and 1:29 scale, and the results have been great. No major problems. The reason I have used Scalecoat for so many years is that they have quite a large selection of railroad and weathering colors. The railroad colors are based on actual paint chips from railroads’ standards departments, so they are true matches. Scalecoat is a solvent-based product but is safe as long as it is used as recommended with adequate ventilation. Contact www.weavermodels. com for complete information. —Chris Devereaux, [email protected]

Accucraft Plymouth diesel gears I’m wondering if any GR readers have encountered the problem of the worm gear breaking on their 1:20.3 Accucraft Plymouth diesel, and if they have found a replacement gear from another source that would work? Cliff Luscher, of Accucraft, said, “These gear boxes are failing due to the fact the nylon gear cracks because of age. I have requested replacement gear boxes but the factory has yet to supply these parts.” I’d be grateful to learn of another way to re-gear my Plymouth, which has been on the shelf now for over

One afternoon, my wife and I heard a loud crack followed by a tremendous noise in the backyard. We rushed out to find that a large tree had mysteriously fallen. Of course, it managed a direct hit on one of our railway’s bridges. It also put a large hole in the concrete mountain. I spent the next few days replastering and rebuilding. I was able to reuse just one bent from the original bridge. The fallen bridge now rests at the foot of the new one, creating an interesting real-life railroad scene. — Rod Eaton, Champlin, Minnesota

Tree sap and track cleaning In the October 2013 issue of GR, Kevin Strong shows the two basic materials that we use to manually clean the rails at the Denver Garden Railway Society’s railroad at the Colorado Railroad Museum. In the past we had used the Scotch-Brite pads common to most garden railways. However, due to changing conditions caused by drought, the three large cottonwood trees that are inside the garden railway now lay down an extremely thick sap during the warmer months. Efforts to remove this with the Scotch-Brite pads proved useless, as they would quickly get gummed up. We even tried to use a pad soaked in paint thinner, but that is not a very environmentally friendly solution. We now use open-weave drywall sanding pads. These do not clog up and, with a few swipes, clean off the sap. The grit of the pads varies with the thickness of sap—120-grit for the heaviest to 250-grit for the lightest. We have noticed no degradation in the rail surface, build up of

residue, or diminished operation after five years. The railroad is in use several days a week. As Kevin says at the end of his article, there is no single magic bullet for track cleaning. —Alan Olson, Chairman DGRS/CRRM Garden Railway

Raised railways Having reached the age where I don’t want to be on my knees troubleshooting problems with the trains, I am about to raise my railroad off the ground. I have one existing elevated section attached to a fence with “L” brackets and 16-foot, 2" x 6" pressure-treated boards (straight sections), and two 10'-radius 2" x 2" x 1⁄4" steel “L” channels topped with 6" Trex decking cut to 18" and mitered to follow the steel curve. However, getting a steel fabricator to bend the angle iron to a freeform curve is both difficult and expensive. (I have to submit shop drawings before fabrication.) I read the article by John Morrison, “Raising the Dunckley Northern”, in the August 2012 GR. I am curious to know how long his roadbed has been operational, how it has fared, and what, if anything, he would do different. As Matt O’Neill said, in his December 2012 letter, a product flexible both horizontally and vertically “does not compute.” Also, how does Max Sarazin (February 2012 and June 2013, “Letters”) protect his CDX plywood tabletop from the weather? —Scott Garrett, Aurora, Colorado [ John Morrison responds: This is the fifth summer that the raised DNR has been operational and it has held up very well. I have learned from other local people’s experiences using the same technique and, if I were to do it again, I would use the Azek product exclusively, only in 20' lengths, and I would use 8' spans on the straighter sections. I also built too close to a tree in one place and the tree had to be “modified.” I continue to use the railway more often than I did when it was on the ground, as maintenance now mostly consists of the occasional use of a blower.] [Max Sarazin responds: I coated the CDX plywood with old Cuprinol, which lasted 11 years. When I reconfigured the 4' x 8' table modules to 16' x 24', I used new

Cuprinol on the new plywood. This won't last that long, as environmental regulations required they reduce the volatility of the product. After the Cuprinol dried, perhaps I should have given it a coat of Thompson’s Water Seal. That’s nothing more than a coat of wax, I believe, but every bit helps.]

GR’s digital edition I’d like to say how much I enjoy the digital edition of Garden Railways. When I renewed my subscription this year I decided to go digital and save on the cost of international postage. It also means that I don’t have to find more storage space for my magazines. The ability to increase the font size makes for easier reading and it’s also nice to be able to enlarge the photos. The links to websites are useful too. —Malcolm Ravensdale, [email protected]

Portable 0-gauge layout

Since not many garden railroaders in my area are interested in 0-gauge, I needed a portable layout that could be transported on the roof rack of our small car. After more than 400 hours of hard labor, and spending at least $600, I’m glad it is finished. It is a good thing that I am interested in narrow gauge and the sharp curves and steep grades that are found in mining and logging railroads, for these were needed in this project. I call it my “pretzel.” The footprint is 79" x 45". The track length is about 33', with 16"-radius curves. The average slope is a bit over 1:10 to get enough headroom for smaller 1:22.5 locomotives and rolling stock. The superelevation in curves is three degrees. The oak ties are on two layers of 3⁄16" pine plywood. The code 200, stainless-steel Märklin rails had to be annealed because they were too difficult to bend. The hardest problem was the amount of twist that

each rail had to be given before bending it by hand to the correct curve around a plywood former. I worked out a formula for the amount of twist per rail length, depending on an up or down, right or left curve, using a combination of high-school geometry, common sense, and luck. The real problem, apart from traction, is solving the interesting equalization problem of the locomotives that are meant to run on this challenging layout, for one wheel of my test car, with a rigid wheel base of just over 2", lifts almost 1⁄16". I’m thinking about making an outside-frame, four-wheel geared Heisler locomotive with one hollow, equalizing, driven axle with Heywood/Klien Lindner elements. I think it will work. —Rob Koenig, Fort Langley, BC, Canada

Track cleaning I enjoyed Kevin Strong’s article on track cleaning in the October issue of GR. I had always used Scotch-Brite pads on a drywall sander, with a Velcro attachment system. However, the plastic sander broke recently, so I needed a more durable drywall sander. The only metal sander that I could find locally didn’t have the Velcro attachment system, so I had to purchase a sander with clamps like the one shown in the picture in Kevin’s article on page 16. The problem with that sander is that the head with the clamps is too long to work with the standard size Scotch-Brite pads, which are readily available. I found a product similar to ScotchBrite at a local hardware store, designed to fit under the clamps of the metal drywall sander. It is made by Gator Finishing (www.gatorfinishing.com) and is called “synthetic steel wool” for polishing metal (item #7320). This product works just like the Scotch-Brite pad and does not contain metal, like real steel wool. It has worked great for me this summer! —Paul Smith, Lincoln, Maine, psmithu18b@ gmail.com

If you have something to say, send your comments to “Letters,” c/o Garden Railways, PO Box 460222, Denver CO 80246 USA; FAX them to 303-377-7785; or e-mail them to [email protected] www.GardenRailways.com | December 2013 13

GARDEN RAILWAY BASICS KEVIN STRONG

Photos by the author excePt as noted

Track power: Part 2—Rail joiners

Rail joiners are important for both prototype and model and, as seen in this photo, sometimes even the prototype needs a little help making sure electrons flow from one rail to the next. (Railroads use electrical continuity for signaling and other applications; the rails themselves do not carry high voltage.) Here, though, the track crews will have to fix the broken wire if they want things to work properly.

I

n part 1 of this series (October 2013 issue), I wrote about the rails themselves and what it takes to keep them clean. Without clean rails, our trains can’t get the electrons they need to operate properly. Clean rails, however, are only part of the equation. A clean railhead will move your train the length of that rail. Unfortunately, our railroads are made up of many individual sections of rail. Keeping the electrons flowing from section to section is every bit as important as keeping them flowing from rail to wheel. If you’ve been running track power for any length of time, you’ve probably encountered bad rail joints. A train runs just fine for a while. Then, when it gets to a particular spot in the track, it stops cold. Wiggling the track a little causes the train to start up again. When it comes back around, it stops again at the same spot. You’ve got a bad rail joint. Actually, if you’re on a loop of track, you’ve got two bad rail joints; the train stopping allows you to identify one of them. The other one is who knows where. In the prototype world, rail joiners are

14 Garden Railways | December 2013

called “fishplates,” a name derived from a curved wooden bar called a “fish” that was used to strengthen a ship’s mast. They’re also called “joint bars” or “rail joiners.” These plates bolt on both sides of the end of a rail to attach it to the next. The same terminology is used in the model world, though “rail joiners” is the dominant term. The purpose of rail joiners in both the model and full-size world is not only to hold the rails together, but also to conduct electricity from one rail to the next. The most familiar form of rail joiner in model railroading is the slide-on bent piece of brass or other metal that protrudes from the end of the rail on our sectional track (photo 1). Perhaps second only to the Lionel-style hollow-rail pin connector, it’s probably the oldest means of holding rails together. For temporary railroads, they work well. Unfortunately, they don’t work long-term in the garden. This is because they just slide on. The rail can move within the joiner, the connection can oxidize (limiting electron flow), or dirt can work its way into the joint over time, also breaking electrical contact. The

About the series

October 2013: Keeping track clean February 2014: Wiring

joiner still holds the rails in alignment just fine but the electrons don’t flow. To address this issue, some manufacturers started using screws that go through the rail joiner into the rail. This is an improvement, certainly, as it provides a solid mechanical connection between the rail and the joiner (photo 2). You can do this yourself with a small machine screw placed into the base of the rail (photo 3). One club member here in Denver has used that method almost exclusively on his railroad for nearly 20 years. If you’re going to rely on just the rail joiners for electrical conductivity, it’s a good idea to put a bit of conductive grease into the joiner as you slide the track together (photo 4). “Conductive” may or may not be a misnomer, depending on the product. It’s also called “dielectric grease” — Continued on page 17

1. The most basic rail joiner is a slip-on-style joiner. These just slide over the rails, with no mechanical means of fastening to the rails besides friction. The joiners shown are brass, with one stainless-steel joiner, and were made for both code-250 rail (left two joiners) and code 332 (right joiner and the one attached to the rail). Left to right, they are from Sunset Valley, Llagas Creek Railways, Aristo-Craft, and Train Line 45 (on the rail).

2. Some manufacturers include screws with their rail joiners to allow you to mechanically fasten the joiner to the rail, providing better electrical continuity between the rail and the joiner. This is Aristo-Craft’s version. www.GardenRailways.com | December 2013 15

2014

Fully escorted tours!

Photos by courtesy of the railways.

www.LGBTours.com Benefit for Märklin/LGB Club members: You receive a reduction of 5% on the actual cost of the trip.

*Special Souvenir Wagon included on each tour for every family

(incl. visit of the Märklin/LGB factory in Györ, Hungary) Austria is a country with rivers, lakes, beautiful valleys and the outstanding landscape to enjoy during a slow moving steam train. This tour will include: - Achenseebahn & Zillertalbahn / - Pinzgauer Lokalbahn / - Taurachbahn / - Murtalbahn / - Rosentaler Dampfzüge - Stainzer Flascherlzug / - Schneebergbahn (one of three rack railways in Austria) / - Mariazellerbahn - enchanting city of Vienna, pilgrimage city of Mariazell, beautiful Mayrhofen and many more mountain villages - Railway Museum Strasshof / - Standard gauge steam excursion Vienna to Timelkam - Ampflwanger Dampflokfest (Steam locomotive fesitval) LOKPARK AMPFLWANG Narrow Gauge Paradise - LGBTOURS - Exclusive visit of the Märklin/LGB factory in Györ, Hungary P.O. Box 130807 - Tampa - Florida 33681-0807 - and some special garden railway layouts to include the Weitentaler Gartenbahn -*Optional visit of Budapest and the Hungarian Railway Museum Tel: (813) 831-0357 - E-mail: [email protected]

September 23 - October 6, 2014: Austria & Hungary – Steam Train Tour

A relaxing tour that includes diverse culture, fascinating heritage and overwhelming scenery. Our train adventures will give us the perfect opportunity to sit back and enjoy the highlights: - Ireland: Dublin, Limerick, Galway, Belfast - Railway Preservation Society of Ireland steam excursions - Isle of Man (Douglas) inclusive 5 historical railways and tramways - Scotland: Edinburgh, Fort William and Aviemore - Fort William to Mallaig ‘The Jacobite’ one of the world’s great rail journeys / - Museum of Scottish Railways - Strathspey Steam Railway, Scotland / - The Bo’ness and Kinneil Railway, Scotland

August 19 - September 2, 2014: Ireland, Isle of Man & Scotland – Train Adventure

We will experience some of the unique and spectacular sights of Canada & Alaska to include the majestic Rocky Mountains & a cruise through one of Alaska's finest fjords. Our tour will include: - Calgary / - Western Heritage National Park Calgary / - Banff National Park & Lake Louise -Vancouver (Vancouver Island including Victoria and famous Butchart Gardens) - Rocky Mountaineer Railroad Calgary-Kamloops-Vancouver - White Pass & Yukon Route Railroad (steam and diesel excursions) - Tour of the maintenance shops of the White Pass & Yukon Route Railroad - Alaska Fjord cruise „Best of the Inside Passage“ / - Mendenhall Glacier - Juneua, Skagway and Whitehorse (Alaska) / - some special garden railway layouts

July 21 - August 3, 2014: Canada /Alaska – Spectacular Scenic Tour

Join in the fun with LGBTOURS as we participate in the National Garden Railway Convention in Tampa, Florida. Some of the highlights in the tour program will include: Orange Blossom Cannonball Train Excursion, Back Stage Disney Steam Train Tour, Busch Garden, and many outstanding private model railroad layouts.

May 5 - 10, 2014: ”Florida – here we come”

Travel with LGBTOURS... ...and make your dreams come true.

GARDEN RAILWAY BASICS CONTINUED — Continued from page 14 and a few other names. Whether or not it actually conducts electricity isn’t all that important. Its primary job is to take up space, keeping moisture and dirt out of the joint and keeping the metal from oxidizing so it can continue to conduct electricity from rail to rail. Most people who use this grease claim a marked improvement in electrical conductivity compared to when they didn’t use it. More often, though, garden railroaders are eschewing slip-on rail joiners for clamp-on joiners to ensure proper electrical conductivity (photo 5). In their most common form, clamp-on joiners simply replace the slip-on rail joiners, though there are “over the joiner” rail clamps as well. These clamps are machined from brass, nickel silver, or other metal. Each has two screws that you tighten to clamp the joiner to the base of the rail. These are a lot bulkier than slip-on joiners but, once buried in the ballast, they’re hard to see. Insulated versions of these clamps are also available for those places where you don’t want electricity to flow from one rail to the next. Not as common—mostly because they are more work—is the use of prototypical rail joiners to hold the rails together. These require that you drill holes in the web of the rail and corresponding holes in rail joiners. The rails are then joined with lots of small nuts and bolts. When my Dad and I first started building his railroad in 1980, that’s the method we employed, using code-100 rail hammered (mostly) flat for the joiners and 0-80 screws for the fasteners. Thirty years later, they’re still doing the job. Many garden railroaders will tell you that a good mechanical connection is sufficient for proper electrical conductivity from rail to rail. Certainly, practical experience gives us plenty of examples. For instance, at the Colorado Railroad Museum, we rely solely on mechanical connections between the rails; likewise for the time my Dad and I ran track power on his Woodland Railway. However, there are also those who will tell you that a solid electrical connection is necessary. This is definitely the approach to take if you’re a “belt and suspenders” kind of person. The

3. If your track doesn’t have pre-drilled holes and slots in the rail joiners, you can always do it yourself, using small screws through the joiner, into the foot of the rail.

4. Many modelers use some variety of conductive paste in their rail joiners to inhibit corrosion and keep the joint clean. There are various products available (Piko’s conductive grease is shown) but not all are conductive, in that they don’t actually conduct electricity. Regardless, their primary job is to keep moisture and air out of the joint so the metal cannot corrode or oxidize, thus maintaining a better electrical connection.

5. Rail clamps have become popular with modelers in lieu of slide-on rail joiners. They’re more expensive but are stronger and generally provide a more positive connection between rail and joiner (though many people still use conductive grease as well). These clamps come in different forms. The most common clamp is shown on the lower left; the clamp is made in two parts, held onto the base of the rail with screws. Its close relative is on the right. This is called a “split” rail clamp because each side clamps separately so you can leave the clamp attached to one rail and remove the other for maintenance. This example is actually an insulated clamp, as the near side is made from plastic. The clamp on the far rail is a transition clamp, which allows you to attach smaller rail to larger rail—in this case, code 250 (left) and code 332 (right). These were purchased from Caboose Hobbies in unbranded packages. www.GardenRailways.com | December 2013 17

GARDEN RAILWAY BASICS CONTINUED

Marc Horovitz

6. For a solid mechanical and electrical connection between rail and joiner, soldering is the best option. This comes with some serious drawbacks, though. First, it’s pretty permanent. Once you solder a joint, it’s not going to come apart. Second, it takes lots of heat, especially on larger rail. Many soldering guns aren’t up to the task, resulting in nasty-looking, cold solder joints. A torch is better, but you will melt plastic ties in the process.

7. A less permanent, but equally effective soldered connection is to use a jumper wire. This allows you to remove the track for maintenance by cutting and re-soldering the wire if need be. Some modelers use a small loop of wire to give you some extra slack at the joint, as shown here. This allows for expansion and puts no strain on the wire.

8. Jumper wires can be made with stranded or solid wire. Stranded is more flexible but, because it’s a collection of smaller wires, it may be prone to increased corrosion. Solid wire is easily salvaged from household electrical wiring. 18 Garden Railways | December 2013

mechanical connection will keep things physically together, while the electrical one will provide a ready path for the electrons, even if the mechanical connection becomes somewhat flaky. The only way to get a good electrical connection between the rails is to solder a jumper wire across the joint, or to solder the rail joint itself (photos 6 and 7). Note that soldering is only an option if you’re using brass or nickel-silver rail. While it’s possible to solder aluminum and stainless steel, it’s not something easily done by mere mortals. If you’re going to go this route, I recommend soldering jumper wires as opposed to soldering the joint itself. A soldered rail joint is, for all intents and purposes, permanent. If you need to remove a section of track for repairs, for instance, you’re going to have a tough go of it if you have to unsolder the rail joint first. With just soldering jumper wires, you can easily clip the wires, fix the track, then resolder the wires together. For the jumper wires themselves, your best bet is to use something in the 10-14gauge range (photo 8). Because they’re jumpers, and running right next to the rails, you can strip the insulation entirely off of the wire so it’s more easily hidden. Whether you use solid or stranded wire is up to you. Theoretically, stranded wire— being a bundle of tiny wires—is more prone to corrosion, especially when exposed to the elements, as it would be lying uninsulated on the ground. However, people have had plenty of success with both solid and stranded wire. Most of us can easily lay our hands on some surplus Romex electrical wire (the stuff you use to wire your house), so a ready and plentiful supply of solid copper wire shouldn’t be too hard to come by. Next time, I’ll talk more about wire, and getting the electricity from the power supply to the track itself. How many feed points do you need? Can you get away with just one? What about electrical blocks? Know that, as long as you’ve got clean rails and solid mechanical connections between the individual sections of rails, no matter how you feed the electricity to the track, you’ve gone a long way toward eliminating many of the troubles that would otherwise plague reliable operation.

GREENING YOUR RAILWAY NANCY NORRIS

Photos by by the author excePt where noted

Aesthetic abutments

1 1. Choosing a style to abut your bridge involves matching local stone in color, shape, and appropriateness for the era and natural environment. One way to make the abutments match the shores you’re bracing is to get extra stone so that, after building them, leftovers can be scattered and placed to show the logical source of construction material—and revet the slope, preventing erosion. Bob Treat and Steve Dasher’s Snow Creek Railroad repeats the shoreline stones in their abutments, piers, and retaining wall. Note the finishing touches of masonry footings and caps. Dwarf Japanese garden juniper models scrub chaparral in this southwest railroad.

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sually, the bridge gets all the attention and credit for holding up the train but, without proper support, a bridge is useless. LetÕs say you buy or build a wonderful bridge and need to support both ends to complete the picture. There is a free, downloadable ebook on full-scale bridgescaping that comprehensively illustrates aesthetic and practical design and includes historical perspectives: http://bridgeaesthetics.org/Draft_ Bridge_Aesthetics_Sourcebook_March09.pdf A bridge mechanically spans a gap by joining two embankments. In this column, though, weÕll narrow our focus to the interface between the bridge and the earth, examining how outdoor modelers from Maine to California anchor their bridges against typhoon-like weather and monster forces. Each bridge abutment skillfully retains the slopes at the ends of the bridge. Each railway shows how to blend the hardscape with the native environs. Modelers abut bridges with a variety of materials. What if your train is already happy with the 1:1 concrete blocks or bricks you stacked, and the bridge is working perfectly? Without moving your brick substructure, think about how you can cover it with a scale fa•ade of mortared stones, precision board etched to look like stone, or a wooden retaining wall. Give the fa•ade a 5-10% slope. If the bridge never did seat correctly and itÕs washing away, check out StoneworksÕ plan #7015, ÒBridge Abutments,Ó using one pound of their real scale stones at wwwRRStoneworks.com

22 Garden Railways | December 2013

Bridgescaping glossary Abutment (n.): The substructure under the end of the span of a bridge for transferring the vertical load of the superstructure of the bridge and holding back the lateral forces of the land at the bridge approach. Hardscape (n.) The hard, non-plant material used to make walkways, barriers, walls, etc. Also, to hardscape (v.) is to build the hard structures of a garden before planting. Repetition (n.): The art of repeating similar treatments, elements, or concepts in a landscape to pull components together into a natural, holistic scene that satisfies the eye and makes logical engineering sense. Revetment (n.): A facing of masonry or stones that protects an embankment from erosion: gabions (stone-filled cages), rip rap (rubble), blocks of concrete, or other protective covering material of like nature deposited upon river and stream beds and banks and other shores, to prevent scour by water flow, thus inhibiting erosion.

2. David and Peggy Riggle’s stained trestle spans a desert stream in their Poverty Hill & Western Railroad. Formed footings attach to man-made rock, similar to cement-based Gunite pool surfaces. Erosion-resistant terraces step up to meet natural rocks of the same color and texture, all reflected in a serene lake below. Distant native oak trees and a cloudless sky frame this picture of a southwestern railroad.

3. A view from underneath one of the bridges on Daniel Smith’s Smith Family Railroad. We see that his deck truss bridge is mounted to redwood retaining walls (upper left corner), which rest on a very hard surface. Daniel carved his abutments’ sub-roadbed out of native sandstone with a hammer drill. Sedum, moss, and ballast stone decorate the lower bridge approach. 4. We often compress hardscape elements, just as we compress buildings for optical illusion and ease of construction. Rod Rickett opened up a narrow chasm in his dry-stack bitterroot-ledgerstone retaining wall to make a dramatic span for his painted redwood bridge. Inconspicuous wooden abutments nestle into the ledger stone to draw focus onto the stackedstone cliff, behind which flows an appropriately scaled, seasonal waterfall on his Bitterroot Canyon Railway. In this case, compressing the span amplifies its verticality. In the foreground, a tall, narrow clump of Crassula tetragona points up to the train and ultimately to the borrowed scenery (native California oak and redwood) beyond.

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5. Taltree Arboretum’s railway garden in Indiana imported gigantic limestone ledge rock from Missouri to create their hardscape mountains. Underneath the New York Central, one of these boulders had to be cut vertically to make the abutment for a metal arch bridge. Diamond-bladed circular saws are best used for rock cutting. (Most modelers can afford a 4" angle grinder with a carbide-coated edge.) The light-colored limestone sets off an impressive array of dwarf plantings, from ginkgo and juniper (left) to golden yew and red Japanese maples (right). Note that the bridge grade needed a short abutment under the approach, here made from synthetic wood. It’s a good idea to make your subsurface (rock) lower than the anticipated grade so that similar shims can be inserted to get the grade exactly right.

5 www.GardenRailways.com | December 2013 23

GREENING YOUR RAILWAY CONTINUED 6. When the middle of the bridge span is structurally supported, the vertical elements are called piers. Carl and Pat Churchill of Maine poured concrete into forms and anchored their Overlook Railway piers in gravel. They mulched the ground with bark and planted heather for trees and creeping thyme for groundcover. Full-scale modern concrete abutments are reinforced. To avoid unnecessarily heavy large-scale piers, one could insert reinforcing bar into the foot of the pier before it sets up and push that metal post (along with the cured pier) into the ground. Similarly, a set of nails, screws, or rebar set into the top of the pier, allows for anchoring the bridge as well. 7. Barry and Buckie Sandford display their club affiliation, Maine Garden Railway Society. Here, they show how they made good wooden abutments for wooden bridges. U-shaped cribbing is filled with stone dust. The ends of the bridge rest on the cribbing, possibly nailed in place. More stone dust ballasts the end of the bridge, locking the two pieces together, more or less. Finally, a revetment of finely shredded bark mulch shields the embankment from losing ballast. If the cribbing settles, one can stack another row of scale timbers on it and reposition the bridge. 8. Dick and Julie Dale let us think they’ve spent hours weathering their bridge in the southwest, modeling Waukesha, Wisconsin. All the elements tell the story of a bygone era, when freight passed here regularly. Although grassy weeds grow between the ties, the concrete abutment holds firm. Its surface shows the horizontal lines of the form boards used when the concrete was poured. A patch of pork-and-beans sedum crops up amid revetment stones, which match the concrete and local stone ballast. The railroad may be temporarily washed up but the embankments haven’t washed out. This close-up shows the bridge resting on a step, called the “bridge seat,” butted up against the unseen “backwall.” The “abutment breast” is the larger wall that retains the dirt and provides vertical support.

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9. When is a portal a bridge? It’s when the upper line needs to cross over the lower line on Bill and Dolores Rodriguez’ California Short Line. Living in a seaside tourist town, the Rodriguezes decided to shelter the upper bridge with a wooden canopy so that train passengers catch a good view of the boardwalk. Sand-colored brick abutments are easy targets for graffiti artists.

9 www.GardenRailways.com | December 2013 25

GREENING YOUR RAILWAY CONTINUED 10. An elevated abutment provides a suitable billboard to advertise the success of this diamond mine on Jim and Jackie Ditmer’s indoor large-scale layout. At the time of construction, finding real stone tile that was staggered, tumbled, and irregular in size was difficult. Now, tiny travertine stone tiles are available as kitchen backsplashes at Lowes. The pieces are about ½" across and come mounted on a backing, which can be used to cover large surfaces, or a modeler can peel them off for a freelance stone wall. Thinset mortar sticks them to Backerboard and grout fills between the tiles before the whole piece gets sponged off and optionally sealed.

10 Regional gardening reports All zones are USDA Hardiness Zones

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26 Garden Railways | December 2013

An arch bridge is one of the oldest bridge styles to span a gap. Materials must withstand the compression transferred vertically and horizontally. Ledge rock from outcroppings and beach pebbles from the shore retain Scott’s bridge embankments. scale plantings above this plane and 1:1 plants below it. But, as you can see, the 1:1 world keeps swallowing the scale world. I used concrete and ledge to form abutments for the upper bridge. The lower bridge is an afterthought that I built last fall, using pebbles from the beach. These are glued to a Styrofoam form with silicone glue. The rock walls are also glued with silicone. So far they seem to be impervious to our Maine weather. I like the effect so much I will probably redo the upper bridge. Frank Lucas Pleasant Hill, California, Zone 9 Imported plastic When I was faced with the problem of

holding up one end of a simple girder bridge, I cheated. I bought a kit. The graffiti is what you get when you ask your 14-year-old grandson to help you build some of your kits.

NaNcy NorriS

Scott Gould Cape Elizabeth, Maine, Zone 5 Native stone When I’m running American equipment, the road is called the Vaguely Wiscasset & Quebec. When I’m feeling Scottish, it’s the Ballachulish & Pitlochry. This summer, it’s the Aberdaron, Pwllheli & Criccieth Railway, a fictional line that rolls along the coast of Wales. I’m halfway done with the figures in the open car, Braich y Pwll, but just learning how to pronounce the name. When we bought our house, the backyard sloped up a dirt embankment with a few large rocks. I brought the top of the embankment forward in order to create a waterfall between two ponds. There is a pond liner underneath each pond, which is covered by concrete and rocks. The rocks are what Mainers refer to as ledge—metamorphosed sedimentary rocks thrown up by an ancient sea. I laid the rocks on a diagonal across the slope, in order to mimic the look of coastal Maine. The original plan was to have

Scott Gould

uestion: Regarding landscaping around bridges, other than using a few bricks or concrete blocks, have you found an interesting way of handling bridge abutments?

Don’t ask the kids to beef up your girder bridge pier.

Marc Horovit z

The changing face of Garden Railways over 30 years. The look of the magazine evolved from the plain, black-and-white cover that first graced it in 1984.

The 30th anniversary of Garden Railways Ruminations on three decades of the magazine by Vance Bass | Albuquerque, New Mexico | Photos as noted

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have to confess, the first time I saw a large-scale train—an LGB starter set—at a train show, I was not particularly interested. I was into Lionel and American Flyer streamliners at the time, and the little Stainz 0-4-0T looked foreign and clunky and its colors gaudy. I moved on. I had a friend who liked the big size enough to get past the cosmetic issues that had put me off. When he picked up a livesteam Aster Shay, my snooty attitude began to change. That looked like a “real” locomotive to me, and the appeal of the large scale and live steam could not be denied. Thus, when that friend (a gentleman named Marc Horovitz) began to write newsletters about these garden-sized steam

32 Garden Railways | December 2013

models, I paid attention. And when, after a couple of years, the newsletter got big enough to become a magazine, Garden Railways was born. I devoured every issue. I still clearly remember some specific articles from those first days, for they opened my eyes to a new world of railroad modeling. These people were not just buying stuff and hoarding it in boxes, like the collectors I knew—they were building railroads out in the dirt, scratchbuilding and kitbashing and inventing and innovating like mad. That looked like a whole lot of fun! Marc’s connections with British and European garden railroaders gave him contact with modelers who had considerably more experience than anyone in North America. So, when Peter

Photo: Wikimedia Commons by RaineR knäPPeR

Jones and John Wenlock and Eric Lloyd wrote about their railways in GR, they had something mature and fully developed to show us. They showed us the possibilities. Peter Jones wrote a column in every issue, from Vol. 1, No. 1 until his death in 2009, each one a jewel of rampant imagination and inspiration, still wonderful to read today. When LGB introduced some American-style rolling stock, I began to think I might have to actually buy one of these trains someday. When Kalamazoo Toy Train Works began making an American-style 4-4-0 locomotive (still produced by Hartland Locomotive Works), I could resist no longer. My first large-scale train was a 1:32-scale locomotive and four 1:22.5-scale cars, but it looked right (American steam) to me. I was hooked. Believe it or not, today I still read every issue, expecting to learn some new technique or be amazed by some ingenious feature on someone’s railroad. Believe it or not, I am never disappointed. You’d think we would have done and said it all by now but somehow garden railroaders continue to put forth mountains of creativity and beauty. Lucky for us, they write about and take photos of what they’ve done. Over the years, the hobby has become both more sophisticated and looser at the same time. Large-scalers have always given themselves the freedom to do hyper-realistic scale modeling, or to indulge in fantasy and silliness, often simultaneously. On one hand, we have a bevy of modern diesels, while 1:20.3 scale now dominates narrow-gauge modeling, with an amazing range of accurate, commercially available locomotives and rolling stock. On the other hand, our rolling stock might be lettered with names like “Pigeon Poop & Treesap RR,” or pull cars with loads of plastic cartoon characters. Somehow, after 30 years, we still permit ourselves to do this for fun, first and foremost. This sets us apart in an important way. What’s ahead? Will magazines go the way of stereopticons? Will garden railroading fade into oblivion, like shooting 8mm family movies and home taxidermy kits have done? It’s hard to imagine that happening. I’m about to start reading GR on my tablet computer; maybe we’ll all be doing this in 10 years. I also

vanCe bass

LGB’s Stainz 0-4-0T, fresh and new in 1968, ushered in a new era in outdoor model railroading in the USA and around the world.

The future of our hobby is in kids like the author’s granddaughter Luci, who is now saying, “I need a train, Opa!” know that my 30-year-old collection of printed magazines is still an invaluable resource when I need good information about a garden-railroading topic. Regardless of how it’s delivered, a magazine with an editorial viewpoint and an experienced staff will always be a more concentrated source of information on the hobby than the randomness of the Internet. We will still need Garden Railways. When I take my granddaughter to the Albuquerque Botanic Garden, I know she’s going to head for the large-scale railway, latch onto the split-rail fence, call out to Thomas and James, and throw a shrieking fit when it’s time to go. I swear I did nothing to actively encourage this—it just developed on its own. She’s only one of a horde of children hanging on that fence. I suspect my son, who hasn’t fired up his live-steam locomotive (bought with baby-sitting money) since he was 14, will end up building his little Thomas fan a railroad. The fascination just doesn’t die, it seems. It gets passed along the generations. The “Magazine of Record” for the hobby goes on, as well. Here’s to another 30 years of supporting garden railroading.

www.GardenRailways.com | December 2013 33

Staff corner: nancy norris A member of GR’s staff discusses recent projects

Photos by the AuthoR unless otheRwise noted

Building and maintaining our club’s outreach trailer

1. At the 2013 Train Collectors Association Show in Santa Clara, California, spectators circle the railroad to learn about garden railways.

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n December, 2009, the Bay Area Garden Railway Society (BAGRS) bought a 5' x 10' open-bed trailer expressly for constructing a towable garden-railway showpiece (photo 1). We figured that all the public needed was the sight of a garden railway, however small, to become completely captivated by the hobby, join our club, and start building their own backyard railroad. The design plans had to first pass the club’s scrutiny, so I set up a blog on our club website. To see the project develop,

go to www.bagrs.org, click on “Interest Groups,” and drag over to “Roving Garden Railway Blog.” By late 2010, many members from BAGRS and the local model-railroad community had helped with materials and construction, enough that we could show the “trailer,” as it’s fondly called, and run two trains for several events. Another year and dozens of work parties later, we ran all three trains on 100' of track for the 2011 West Coast Regional Meet. Late in 2012, after showing the

2. Teacher Linda Herbert and one of the trailer builders, Terry Hurley, have finished putting the gates up and tarp on for the trip home after running trains at Montara Elementary School, Montara, California. The curved, front metal bridge is supported on the trailer tongue and houses stanchion ropes, needed at KidFest. 34 Garden Railways | December 2013

railroad to 22,000 people at Kidfest (photo 3), a club member who teaches second grade contacted me. She wanted the railroad to help celebrate “Continents Day,” because trains helped to connect our continent. The entire school read the book The Boxcar Children in preparation for our display (more on that later). Ready for the road in photo 2, it looks a bit like a boxcar—and turns a few heads. One nice thing about getting volunteers from a large club is their range of skills and interests. At the last event, a BAGRS member David Mease filmed the set-up. You can watch it on You Tube: www.youtube.com/watch?v=rWz5i8kf9TQ &feature=youtu.be or search “Bay Area Roving Garden Railway at Ardenwood.” Imagine preparing your garden railway for 60mph winds and an hour-long earthquake, two hours before your open house. That’s what it’s like hauling the trailer. And yet, it works. My dad was one of the Bell Labs engineers who launched Telstar, the first communications satellite, into space half a century ago. Likewise, we had to engineer the trailer to fit everything into a small space, survive “the atmosphere,” and still communicate to folks the scope of a garden railway. Sometimes, in

conveying to viewers that “the plants are alive,” I get looks like I’m from outer space. I explain that the trailer bed is filled with soil and planted, just like a real garden, and is exposed to sun and rain. “It’s a trailer?” they ask, incredulously. Older people relate to the theme because we model an era from their childhood. Kids like the story from Gertrude Chandler Warner’s book, The Boxcar Children. It’s about their difficulties as orphans, as well as their rewards in cheerfully using available resources. The story helped us to section the railroad into four distinct sides. One. The upper loop goes through town. Two stores are fastened to a hinged board above the trailer tongue, over a galvanized box for a 12V marine battery (photo 2). “One warm night four hungry children stood in front of a bakery. No one knew them. . . .” Two. One 10' gate hinges down to expose the woodsy area where the children find a boxcar to keep them dry and hide them from their grandfather, whom they think doesn’t like them. For a view block (photo 3), the central mountain cascades into a waterfall (into a five-gallon hidden tub) so the kids can keep their milk cold and stay clean. Cribbing on the

Ron Gies

3. Side 2 shows the forested part of the story. Everything below the upper track is fastened to the 10' trailer side and hinges up before travel.

4. A 2" Henry gathers carrot and onion thinnings for Jessie to cook at the boxcar. Nancy Norris reaches past a blooming dwarf cherry tree to prune dwarf cotoneasters, posing as cherry trees. As BAGRS’ outreach director, Nancy tows the trailer to shows when not working at her company as a garden-railway installer (www.gardenlines.net). side gates carries trains from Silver City’s mine to circle the railroad at a lower level. Three. On the tailgate, plants can’t grow, but the silver mine is thriving. Oreprocessing facades hide the trailer and open into an 8' tunnel for an automatic point-to-point mine train. Above the tunnel lives the doctor, whose mother has hired Henry to do garden work (photo 4). Four. Grandfather clears up misunderstandings and invites his grandchildren to

live in his fancy house with manicured grounds (photo 1). He brings the boxcar, all freshly painted, for the kids to play in. (Spoiler alert.) Little Bennie gets a garden railway! No matter how much we add to the scenery, someone wants us to extend it. And we do. See the BAGRS website mentioned earlier for new additions, the plant list of 35 varieties, and upcoming building parties.

www.GardenRailways.com | December 2013 35

Build a

This project maximizes functionality in minimal space

large-scale workbench

by Jim Kottkamp | Alexandria, Virginia Photos by the author

Storage drawers Formica countertop

Storage bins

Sears Craftsman project center

Drawers Slide-out fiberboard work tops

Caster

Locking caster

The Craftsman work center (left) provides large-tool storage and is excellent for hammering and dirty work. It features lift-out work tops that store in the left side of the workbench.

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36 Garden Railways | December 2013

boards provide enough space to store projects; and have storage space for the engines or cars, allowing me to move from following: my railroading tools, cars in one project to another in case I’m waiting need of repair, drawings, small detailing for parts, etc. One work top is used for a test parts, pre-sawed timbers for trestles, and roller system for locomotives and the six-foot sections of rail. other two are used for storage. The first step was to purRAILWAY S DEN I used a 6' long x 24"chase a Sears Craftsman deep standard Formica work center. This solved kitchen countertop for the problem of where to the work surface of the do dirty, hard work, and bench. Formica is tough its five drawers provide and will stand up to abuse. ample storage for large NT D The white color cuts hidegeneral-purpose items and ER ME and-seek to a minimum when a power tools. spring or screw decides to liberate itself. The work center has a 171�2" x 221�2" The kitchen countertop provides about fiberboard work top, which can be lifted out. 9" of “wasted” space between my knees and I designed the left side of my workbench to the back of the workbench. I boxed in this hold five of these work-top boards. Two

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’m 65 years old and have been modeling for 60 of those years. All but the last 21 of those have been in HO scale. I’ve now fully transitioned to 1:20.3 scale and have been rather overwhelmed with the large size of everything in this hobby. Not only are the cars large, but the steam locomotives are close to three feet long and drawings for buildings and trestles are huge! So, when I set out to build a largescale workbench, I decided that it must be multipurpose and be able to address as many storage and space issues as possible. The workbench had to solve several problems. It must be large enough to comfortably work on locomotives; short enough to roll under my indoor train layout; able to allow storage for multiple

Pipes for storing modeling wire

Drop-down storage for drafting equipment

The workbench can store two projects in the left side while providing a large work area, small-parts storage above the work surface, modeling-tool storage in the drawers on the right, and an extra drop-down storage bin for drafting supplies in the wasted space in the center area.

The back wall of the workbench is inset 2" for storage of large drawings and trestle-bent construction patterns. www.GardenRailways.com | December 2013 37

Materials list for the large-scale workbench

Description Quantity Unit Price Locking casters 2 11.98 Regular casters 3 9.98 ½" x 4' x 8' AC plywood 3 30.15 2" x 4" x 8' 2 2.83 1" x 4" x 8' #2 pine boards 4 5.65 1" x 6" x 8' clear pine for drawer fronts 1 11.35 Drawer pulls 7 1.88 Piano hinge 1 9.98 6' Formica counter top (damaged) 1 45.00 17" drawer slides 7 2.78 Workforce stacking storage bins (8 bins ea.) 2 5.97 EmPlast 19-drawer parts storage 2 10.96 2" x 10' PVC pipe 1 6.97 3" x 10' PVC pipe 2 10.98 13�4"x 10' PVC pipe 2 4.97 3�4" x 4' x 8' fiberboard 1 12.50 Total cost for materials Sears Craftsman 5-drawer powered project center #59496

Total Cost 23.96 29.94 90.45 5.66 22.60 11.35 13.16 9.98 45.00 19.46 11.94 21.92 6.97 21.96 9.94 12.50 $356.79 $109.99

Note: Prices shown were current at Home Depot and Lowes at the time of construction. The list assumes no materials on hand from other projects.

Slide-out shelf for storing rolling stock awaiting repair

PVC pipe for storing 6 rails and scale lumber

Inset end for hanging larger tools

The right end is inset 3¼" inches to allow for storage of large tools. The 5½" x 23½" storage area at the right runs all the way across the back of the bench. Bad-order cars are stored on top, while 6' sections of rail and scale lumber are stored in PVC pipes underneath. 38 Garden Railways | December 2013

area, giving me a 51�2" x 221�2" space that runs the full length of the workbench. The bottom half of this space is filled with sections of PVC pipe, which provide storage bins for 6'-long sections of rail and pre-sawn sections of trestle lumber. The top part of the space has a 6'-long shelf that serves as my “rip track.” This shelf slides out about 20" in either direction for ease of loading rolling stock, which solves the problem of where to put broken cars until I have a chance to work on them. The base of this section is a 3�8" piece of plywood with two grooves, 13�4" apart for the car flanges. There are coupler-height end blocks on the shelf to keep the cars from rolling out. The workbench is mounted on rollers so it can be stored under the indoor part of my layout when not in use. These rollers also allow easy access to the rail and other items stored in the 6'-long storage area, and to the back side of the work bench, which is inset 2" to provide storage for those huge large-scale drawings and trestle-bent work patterns. The right side of the bench is filled with six drawers for small-tool storage. The end is inset to allow me to hang some of my larger tools so they don’t stick out and get knocked off their pegs. I discovered there was plenty of knee and leg room in the center section of the workbench so I added two center drawers and a fold-down bin to hold my drafting supplies. The top drawer is 31�2" deep for the most frequently used tools; the second is 11�2" deep for rulers, mills, and drills. The folddown bin is 291�2" wide x 20" tall. The sides and bottom are 1" x 3" pine. The top has a 1" x 1" board on the outside so the bin lays flat when opened, to keep the contents from sliding out. A piano hinge at the bottom allows it to fold down for access, while a slide-latch keeps it closed until needed. The final part of the construction was to install small-parts storage shelves on the front of the back wall, 53�4" above the workbench top. I also mounted three pieces of 3�4" copper water pipe below these to hold scale wire used for detailing purposes. The finished product provides one location for a wide range of modeling “stuff ” that used to be tucked away in different places all around the house. More importantly, I now have a place to work on large-scale projects with all the necessary parts and tools within close reach.

PART 3

DCC

large for

scale

by Kevin Strong | Centennial, Colorado | Photos and illustrations by the author unless otherwise noted

R

RAILWAY

S

T c e J O Pr B ER

How decoders work

A GA

a beginner’s guide

DEN

EGINN

About the series

August 2013: Introduction and configuration variables October 2013: The basic components February 2014: Accessories and automation

Some locomotives, like this Piko 0-6-0, come factory-equipped with DCC already installed. DCC decoders come in a variety of shapes, sizes, capacities, and functions. From left to right: TCS FL4 4-function (lights or similar) decoder; Soundtraxx 1-amp Tsunami (motor, lights, sound); QSI Titan plug-nplay interface (6-amp, motor, lights, sound); MRC-1817 (3 amps, motor, lights, sound); Piko American Steam (3 amps, motor, light, sound); Massoth eMOTION XXL (10 amps, motor, lights, wired to plug-n-play adapter board); Airwire G2 Wireless receiver (3 amps, motor, lights); Phoenix P5 (sound only).

S

o far, we’ve talked about the principles of DCC and examined the parts of the control system that tell the on-board decoders what to do. Now, we get to the decoder itself. If the command station is the brains of the operation, the decoder is the muscle. The decoder is what makes the motors turn, lights illuminate, the smoke units puff,

40 Garden Railways | December 2013

the whistles blow, etc. The variety of functions available on decoders seems to grow almost daily. Today’s decoders run the gamut, from basic motor control to boards that fully integrate motor, sound, lights, and even exhaust, for an ever-increasing sense of realism for our models. It’s important to remember, though, that even though the

super-whizbang decoders can do great things, the modeler is under no obligation to use all of the features. All decoders come programmed with factory-default settings that are designed to give basic control without any tweaking. There is no point for me to list here specifically which decoders do what, as that list would likely be obsolete by the time the article gets into print. Instead, I’ll highlight some of the basic features of decoders, then leave it to you to visit the various manufacturers’ websites to see what products might suit your needs.

Voltage to motor

+V

Motor

DCC decoder

Pulse

Back EMF

0V Duty cycle

Stop

Throttle setting

Full

As the throttle is increased, the duration of the pulse with respect to the duty cycle increases. The motor receives full voltage for longer durations and spins faster as a result, until the throttle reaches maximum, at which point the pulse is the same length as the duty cycle and the motor gets full voltage all the time.

As a motor turns, it creates “back electro-motive force” (back EMF or BEMF), which the DCC decoder can read to better control the motor.

Figure 2: Back EMF

Sound decoder

(Part 4 of this series in the December issue will offer a list of DCC manufacturers and their contact information.)

Motor decoders The most basic decoder is a motor-only decoder. I say “motor only,” but chances are you won’t find one that controls just the motor and nothing else. More likely, you’ll get motor control and basic directional lighting. But I digress. In terms of how decoders actually control the motor, there are similarities and differences among decoders. All of the DCC motor controllers I’m familiar with use pulse width modulation (PWM) to control the motor (figure 1). This is where the motor is fed the “full” voltage in short pulses. The longer the pulses, the faster the motor turns. PWM is good but it can still be hard to control locomotives at low speeds. To improve upon that, many DCC decoders use what’s called “back electro-motive force” or BEMF. Without

Inside the tender are the “guts” of the DCC installation.

getting too technical, this is something the motor creates as it’s turning (figure 2). The decoder can detect this and change how it controls the motor in response to what it’s detecting. This allows for precise speed control, and even “cruise control,” where the speed of the train is kept more-or-less constant regardless of the change in grades, curve, and other things that might otherwise affect its speed. The decoder does this through a feedback process called “PID,” or sometimes just “PI.” The hows and whys of PID lie outside the scope of this series. You may never need to worry about changing the factory-default settings for these, but know that you can change them to a varying degree with many decoders in the event your locomotive exhibits erratic performance. Once properly set, consistent speeds down to one scale mile per hour can be attained. While on the subject of motors, let’s discuss the current capacity of the decoders. Decoders designed for use in most

From track

Figure 1: Pulse-width modulation

Motor decoder

Motor

Light/function decoder DCC decoders can be installed in a locomotive or piece of rolling stock in parallel. As long as they all have the same DCC address, they’ll work together.

Figure 3: Piggybacking decoders large-scale trains should have a continuous current-handling capacity of between 3 and 5 amps. That’s not to say your locomotive will draw that much, but it’s a safe range in which to operate, knowing that you’re not going to overtax the decoder during operation. However, there will be times when you’re not going to need something with that much oomph behind it. Small “critter” type locomotives, like Galloping Geese or a streetcar, might be well-served by a 1-amp-capacity decoder designed primarily for smaller scales.

Other locomotives, like this Bachmann 2-6-6-2, have built-in “plug-n-play” sockets so that a variety of plug-in decoders can be easily installed. www.GardenRailways.com | December 2013 41

Controlling sound

Small critters, like this Rio Grande Southern Galloping Goose, draw little current and can use decoders designed for smaller scales. Here, a 1-amp Soundtraxx Tsunami (purple) is installed next to an Airwire “Convertr” wireless receiver so that the Goose can run on battery power. The battery will go on the deck of the Goose but all the control electronics are safely tucked away under the frame, out of sight. These vehicles don’t draw that much current and, because of their small size, can benefit from using a smaller decoder. More and more, we’re seeing decoders with multiple lighting outputs that can control any number of prototypical lights: cab lights, firebox flicker, class lamps, ditch lights, even specialty lights, like roof beacons, strobes, or Mars lights. These lighting effects can typically be customized via CVs specific to each function. Things like brightness, rate of flashing, even the ability to simulate the way an incandescent light doesn’t instantly come to full brightness or shut completely off can be programmed to varying degrees, depending on the specific decoder. In most cases, these are generally low-current outputs designed for small grain-of-wheat incandescent bulbs or LEDs. However, you can get creative and use them to power small motors and similar things, via relays and the like, to add some animation to your locomotive—a prototypically ringing bell or a fireman shoveling coal, for instance. Some decoders also can control a fan-driven smoke unit to give you more

42 Garden Railways | December 2013

One of the most attractive features of DCC is the ability to control sound. There are two types of sound decoders; sound only and sound/motor. Sound-only decoders are just that. They solely provide (literally) the bells and whistles of our trains. Probably the most popular soundonly decoder for large scale is made by Phoenix. (Note: Phoenix boards are also compatible with non-DCC control systems but have the most functionality under DCC control.) The specific sounds on these boards are controlled by the 28 function buttons on the controller. There may also be some “automatic” sounds that play at certain points, or the sound may change in response to speed changes. For instance, the chuff may get quieter as you decrease the power, simulating the engineer closing the throttle so the locomotive slows down. Sound/motor decoders control both sound and motor-control functions. This saves the modeler the need to piggyback a sound decoder on top of a motor-only decoder. Beyond consolidating two boards into one, the biggest advantage of having both features on one board is that the sound can be better integrated into what the decoder is actually doing, relative to the motor. With a sound-only decoder,

Sound decoder From track

realistic engine exhaust. You may also be able to control servo motors that will operate couplers or raise and lower pantographs. I said earlier that “motor only” decoders are the most basic decoders. However, there are “function-only” decoders that just do lights and things of that nature. These are ideal for passenger cars or cabooses, or you can piggy-back them in a locomotive whose motor decoder may not have the lighting functions you want. (More on multiple decoders later.)

Motor decoder

Motor

Light/function decoder Some decoders have identical CV numbers that control different things. In order to program just the specific decoder you want to program, it’s advisable to install an on-off power switch for each individual decoder. Turn off all decoders except the one you wish to program.

Figure 4 Programming individual decoders the sound decoder may respond to voltage or polarity, but that’s about it. By integrating sound and motor, you can also change sounds based on the load of the motor (how hard it’s working). For instance, if your locomotive encounters an uphill grade and slows down, drawing more current, the decoder may increase the volume of the chuff or diesel motor to simulate the engine working harder to get up the grade. It does this by sensing changes in BEMF and/or changes in the current being drawn. There are also decoders that can read chuff-trigger input and synchronize a fan-driven smoke unit in conjunction with the chuff trigger. The list of available features seems to grow daily as technology improves and manufacturers compete with each other. In the case of most sound decoders (both sound only and sound/motor), you can tweak various aspects of the sound itself. Individual sound volumes can be programmed relative to one another, so

Piko sells their on-board decoder separately as well. Components from left to right: speaker, DCC decoder, volume-control board, magnetic-trigger board (which gets mounted on the tender truck to trigger the whistle and bell via track magnets).

Decoder installation In an analog DC locomotive, power from the rails feeds the motor directly. As the voltage on the rails increases, the motor speeds up. Depending on the locomotive, there may or may not be a centralized circuit board through which all the power runs. If a locomotive is advertised as “DCC equipped,” then the locomotive already has a DCC decoder installed. As yet, this isn’t nearly as common in large scale as it is in the smaller scales. If a locomotive is advertised as “DCC ready,” then it has a simple means of installing a DCC decoder. Most Aristo-Craft and Bachmann locomotives come equipped with a “plug-and-play” socket that allows for this. Other manufacturers haven’t adopted that yet, but some offer similar arrangements (screw terminals, plugs, etc.) that make installing advanced control products easier. Regardless of whether the locomotive has such a socket or not, to install a DCC decoder into the locomotive, you must interrupt the power feed from the rails to the motor (figure A). The power from the rails (which includes the DCC signal) is then fed to the decoder, which converts the AC to DC and feeds the appropriate voltage to the lights, motor, etc., based on the commands it receives. Many DCC decoders are “dual mode,” in that they’ll work on DCC, but will also allow you to run your train on traditional track power.

Motor

With traditional analog DC operation, power comes directly from the rails to the motor, lights, and smoke unit.

Motor

With DCC operation, no power goes directly from the track to the motor. Instead, power comes in from the rails to the decoder. This decoder distributes power as dictated by the hand-held controller. All locomotive functions are controlled by the decoder, including motor, lights, smoke, sound, etc.

Figure A: Decoder function

marc Horovitz

you can hear certain sounds over others. Some manufacturers allow you to adjust the equalization (like on a stereo) to get the most favorable sound out of the speaker in the locomotive. QSI’s new Titan decoder offers two-channel output for multiple speakers, so you can program certain sounds to come from one speaker or the other, or blended between the two. The sounds themselves can also be changed. Many manufacturers program multiple whistles onto their boards so you can select from a variety to find one that suits you. Also, some manufacturers offer computer interfaces so you can download new sounds from their websites and program the decoders. I could spend an entire article just talking about ways to tweak sounds for maximum realism. There’s a lot you can do. I mentioned piggybacking decoders earlier. With DCC, you can put as many independent decoders in a locomotive or piece of rolling stock as you’d like. Each picks up the DCC signal from the track and responds in kind (figure 3). As long as all the decoders in a given locomotive are programmed to the same address, they’ll work together. That’s the good news. The flip side is that you have to be careful when programming these decoders. While some CVs are universal, others are manufacturerspecific. For instance, CV52 may control lights on one decoder but may control the volume of a particular sound on another. If both decoders are on the track when you program CV52, the programming will change the value on both decoders to that new number. To counter this, it’s wise to put a toggle switch in line with the DCC signal going to each decoder so that you can isolate just the decoder you wish to program and leave the rest alone (figure 4).

Programming decoders Programming these decoders is typically done via the handheld throttle. However, more manufacturers are moving toward proprietary PC-based programming to interface with their decoders. There’s also free software that you can download to program decoders, such as Decoder Pro from JMRI (http://jmri.sourceforge.net). Decoder Pro is compiled by a network of volunteers operating independently from any manufacturer. The fruits of their labors give you the ability to use the computer to program a number of decoders

for which the manufacturers do not offer PC-based programming. Having said that, though, it’s generally best to use the manufacturer-specific software whenever possible, for the highest level of compatibility. There are some things that JMRI simply cannot do for certain decoders. There’s a lot to think about when choosing the decoder for your particular locomotive and, with so much competition, you’ve got lots of choices. Choose the one that’s right for the level of simplicity/ complexity that you want. That’s the

beauty of DCC; it’s open-source, so any decoder will work. Pick one manufacturer for one installation, another for the next. You can tailor your choice to the specific needs of the project at hand. In the final installment of this series, I’ll cover some of the cool things you can do with DCC in terms of automation, as well as look at some ways of combating dirty track. I’ll also go over accessory decoders that you can use to throw switches and control various trackside elements on your railroad.

www.GardenRailways.com | December 2013 43

2. A view from the south of the larger leg of the “L.” Plants are kept in scale through an ongoing pruning campaign. Similar trees grow near each other to show natural habitats.

I

t’s late September, 1957. The residents of Tortoise Town go about their daily activities. Though established during the Depression era, the town now flourishes with the new gold strike at the mine. Nuggets the size of boulders are hauled from the natural volcanic tunnel. With the bonanza, it became imperative to move goods on a timely basis. Due to lower operating costs and ease of maintenance, diesels stole the thunder and steam power is now relegated to recreational use. While the people had a hard time giving up their beloved steam engines, they recognized that it took diesel power to get the job done on schedule and on budget. Based on the need for a quick “gearup” and the availability of equipment from the Southern Pacific, most motive power was purchased second hand and still carries its SP colors. One nugget was enough to tide the SP lawyers, and the Tortoise & Lizard Bash is free to run the SP herald without further retribution. Residents have lots of free time for leisure activities. Trains take people out to the hot springs, the lake, and to observe the volcanoes. Townsfolk can also take the aerial tram out to the island to visit the

46 Garden Railways | December 2013

Lazy Lizard Dude Ranch. The aerial tram affords spectacular views for its riders as it parallels the trestle, passing over rail lines and waterfalls. Some people toil in the mine, stamp mill, and brewery, or work the railroad. A 44-tonner regularly travels between the mine, the Lizard Lane Station, and the mill, delivering ore cars, water, and supplies. Ore cars are lifted from the rails by the sprinkler crane (see August 2010 GR), transferred to a separate track, and pushed into the structure where they are dumped. Ore is crushed and an elevator and conveyor system dump it into waiting hopper cars that share a spur with the Bear Whiz Beer Brewery, where Gustav and his crew actively ice the reefers (see October 2012 GR). Other trains make regular stops at the Tortoise Town Station, where passenger and freight consists alternate travel in different directions. Diesels also serve the loops that handle cattle, sheep, and chicken ranching, as well as those goods to be delivered between Tortoise Town and Lizard Lane.

Philosophy The Tortoise & Lizard Bash (T&LB) Railroad was constructed and is operated at

reasonable cost, while ensuring reliable long-term operation. Most of the rock was trapped in the wild or donated. Track power with block control was chosen for its economics, ease of use, and reliability. Most electronics, rolling stock, and structures were obtained as surplus, in closeouts, in raffles and auctions, or were donated. Another aspect of our philosophy is that, while situations need not be real, they do need to be plausible. If a structure sits on a hill, there must be a ramp for access. Additionally, we strive for originality, creativity, innovative thought, and animation. Humor and whimsy play a subtle but important part in the railroad. Our dogs wait patiently in line to use the fire hydrant. For the younger crowd, finding Mickey Mouse standing under a tree or “Jack” next to the restaurant brings more smiles than a kitbashed structure. Observant adults will also find something to suit their fancies. Our Low-rider Train, complete with dancing car, is always a hit with visitors.

The garden Since the railroad is in our front yard, it is viewed by all who come to the house. Therefore, I feel that the garden is the first priority. On average, I spend about

17 44

40 7 8

46 Waterfall 61 Waterfall

1

3 2

Waterfall

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64 57 63 Water- 8 fall 37

60

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1. 2. 3. 4.

Passenger depot Mine shack Dinosaur excavation site Mine and covered loading platform 5. Gidra (active volcano) 6. Dragonʼs Breath (active volcano) 7. Lazy Lizard Dude Ranch 8. Windmill 9. Horse barn 10. Fishing shack/boat rental 11. Chicken coop 12. Silo 13. Tower-lighting stanchion 14. Freight-loading pad 15. Sheep pen 16. Electrical-workerʼs shack 17. Water tower

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4 18. Passenger station 19. Freight station 20. Brewery 21. Hobo camp 22. Auto-repair garage 23. Auto-storage garage 24. Filling station 25. Hot-air-balloon launch facility 26. Overhead loading and icing facility 27. Ticket booth for balloon facility 28. Bed & breakfast 29. Tavern and bawdy house 30. Keg advertising the bawdy house 31. Tavern-proprietorʼs house 32. Loading pier 33. Commercial building 34. Industrial building

an hour a day taking care of the garden so it stays nice at all times. All vegetation is real and to scale. No plant is allowed to get as tall as my hips, which requires continual effort. I keep the myrtles trimmed in topiary fashion to look like a cheerleader’s pom-poms and tell people they are “pom” trees. One day I’ll cut one of the tree’s spheres into cubes and tell people it’s a “boxwood.” Groundcover is varied and includes over a dozen types of thyme. One type of thyme has hybridized on-site to form a new variety, creeping elfin thyme. With foliage like elfin thyme, it grows out like “dreadlocks” until these “locks” take root and spread as a mat. It takes full sun and tolerates the heat better than any other variety of thyme on the railroad. I’ve given this hybrid the name Thymus rasta jamaciia. The garden is watered by a combination of sprinklers and drip-irrigation system. The sprinklers are not readily visible, as they are

35. Covered waiting platform 36. Cattle barn 37. Farm house 38. School house 39. Diesel-fueling facility 40. Coaling station 41. Speeder garage 42. Track-workerʼs shack 43. Tortoise Town station 44. Newspaper/shoe-shine stand 45. Barber shop 46. Post office/sheriffʼs office 47. Town hall 48. Cinema 49. Church 50. Auto-repair garage/ filling station 51. Hardware store/drug emporium

52. Open-air amphitheater/gazebo 53. Grocery store/dress shop 54. Bank 55. Town herald 56. Restaurant 57. Chameleon Caverns towel shack 58. Control tower 59. Gazebo pavilion 60. Boarding house 61. Lighthouse 62. Covered footbridge 63. Chameleon Caverns 64. Ramp over retaining wall 65. 10-wheeler in park 66. Stamp mill 67. Sprinkler crane 68. Aerial-tram power house 69. Aerial Tram Island landing/tower

34 33 32

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The Tortoise & Lizard Bash Garden Railroad at a glance Name: Tortoise & Lizard Bash Railroad Size of railway: 52' x ~20' plus a 10' x 15' “L” Scale: Trains, 1:29; structures, 1:24 Gauge: Nº 1 (45 mm) Era: September 1957 Theme: Fantasy, town and country mainline, and switching Age: 15 years Motive power: Primarily diesel Length of the mainline: 210' Maximum gradient: 2.5% Minimum radius: 4' Type of track: Sectional Aristo-Craft with some LGB, all with European ties. LGB 4-foot radius with some Aristo-Craft 5-foot radius turnouts Structures: Approximately five dozen plastic, wooden, and cement-coated structures, from scratch and various manufacturers. Control system: Three Aristo-Craft Train Engineers/Mean Wells through sophisticated block control. Website: http://tortoiseandlizardbash.com YouTube videos: Watch the railroad run itself: www.youtube.com/watch?v=kUFmrN3SQJ4 Water features: www.youtube.com/watch?v=_mPGBcCOBsc

www.GardenRailways.com | December 2013 47

25

illustration by Marc Horovitz

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Tortoise & Lizard Bash Garden Railroad

3. The mine train (next to the station) stops for supplies at Lizard Lane on its way to the stamp mill, while lumber from the dock is loaded onto flatcars. Concrete pavers are handy for laying down the loading dock. Pink-flowering thyme blankets the knoll beyond the station. enclosed in “faux rock” (see February 2013 GR) or are built into the structures.

The railroad The railroad was built in an active volcanic area and the craters provide spectacular views for guests, both in 1:24 and 1:1 scale. These volcanoes release water through two backlit waterfalls on its way to the lake. Trains pass behind the falls on their way from the trestle. Townsfolk can “take the waters,” for either recreational or medicinal purposes, at Chameleon Caverns Mineral Springs. Brick hot tubs constructed along the hillside supplement the natural pools and falls. All of the water features utilize low voltage, ultrasonic misting units that produce both dramatic smoke-like mist and

4. With gold nuggets the size of boulders filling the ore cars, the mine is extremely lucrative. Silver carpet grows on top of the mine rocks.

lighting at night. The garden is detailed with over 60 structures, 300 people and animals, cars, motorcycles, and more. Structures are a combination of scratchbuilt, modified kits, and purchased wooden buildings. Many of the wooden buildings are now being swapped for modified plastic structures. My current construction method of choice, used on several structures and features, is hydraulic cement, sifted dry over Styrofoam or a covered wire armature, then misted to form a waterproof shell (see April 2011 GR). The major urban area is Tortoise Town, with structures named for their reptilian counterparts. When sheriff Chuck Walla isn’t getting a soda at Dragon Lizard Drugs, he may be getting a haircut at

Cooter’s Clip Joint or calling on Ms. Lizzie at Collared Lizard Clothiers. The Lounge Lizards jazz band is featured entertainment in the town circle. Tegu Terrace, located in Komodo Korners, includes a red-light district and is next to the Bear Whiz Beer Brewery and hot-air-balloon launch facilities. All buildings and major structures have lighting for night operations.

Making it work The landscape covers about 1,200 square feet, with 600 feet of Aristo-Craft and LGB track and six bridges, including a 14-foot-long trestle. Eighteen LGB 1600-series and three Aristo-Craft fivefoot-radius turnouts allow as many as seven trains to navigate the landscape simultaneously. Most track is sectional, with curves a

A partial listing of plants on the Tortoise & Lizard Bash Railroad Orange County, CA USDA Hardiness Zone 10a

Snowrose

MINIATURE TREES AND WOODY SHRUBS

Oregano thyme

Boxwood

Hokkaido elm

Buxus microphylla

St. John’s wort Hypericum aegyptiacum

Australian tea plant

Serissa foetida (assorted varieties) Thymus vulgaris ‘Oregano’ Ulmus parvifolia ‘Hokkaido’

Seiju elm Ulmus parvifolia ‘Seiju’

Leptospermum scoparium

Dwarf myrtle Myrtus communis ‘Compacta’

Dwarf pomegranate Punica granatum ‘Nana’

48 Garden Railways | December 2013

DWARF CONIFERS Boulevard cypress Chamaecyparis pisifera ‘Boulevard’

Dwarf Japanese garden juniper Juniperus procumbens ‘Nana’

Corsican mint Mentha requienii

Lemon thyme Thymus × citriodorus

GROUNDCOVER Chamomile Anthemis nobilis

False heather Cuphea hyssopifolia ‘Chiquita’

Dymondia Dymondia margaritae ‘Silver Carpet’

Baby tears Helxine soleirolii

Creeping thyme Thymus praecox

Woolly thyme Thymus pseudolanuginosus

Dreadlock thyme Thymus rasta jamaciia

Mother of thyme Thymus serpyllum

Garden thyme Thymus vulgaris

Society garlic Tulbaghia violacea

5. An old SP FA hauls a short freight train across the 14' trestle over the lake. Compact dwarf myrtle trees (top) thrive in this area.

6. The volcanoes’ fury, photographed at night. Effects are produced by ultrasonic misters combined with dramatic lighting. Even the Silver Carpet groundcover adds to the smoky-lava-field look. minimum of four feet in radius. All rail joints use wire jumpers, with no failures since the railroad was installed. Electrically, the railroad is separated into 23 blocks, each accessible by three AristoCraft Train Engineers (TE). Some blocks include switching that allows trains to run at reduced speeds or park, enabling that TE to be used to control an engine elsewhere. A 16.5V, 16.5-amp transformer handles the AC for the turnout motors and features involved in the automatic operation. A similar transformer, located in the garage, is used for the lighting, including the volcanoes. Power for the pumps and misters is

7. The thyme always seems tastier across the river near the cattle ranch in this bucolic scene. Taller trees are pruned for airiness to open the scene and let in light.

also taken from the garage, using a GFI receptacle. One of the pumps automatically drains the lake after the watering cycle so as not to leave standing water. The control panel includes several features that make the operation of seven trains possible. Three reversing units are built in and can be applied to any or all three of the “cabs.” Because all spurs are protected by diodes, trains will automatically run point-to-point between any two opposing spurs, simply by selecting the reverser option for that cab, aligning the turnouts and setting the blocks accordingly. Another switch controls the automatic

operations. This sends AC current that activates the “leap frog” operation at the Tortoise Town Station, trains slowing and/or waiting at the service facility, key “diode-protected” blocks along the mainline and sidings, and an MP3 sound system that produces the sounds of station activities in the station and service activities in the water tower. A three-minute sound loop was prepared using the downloadable Audacity software. Sounds are triggered by the inbound trains and the player will restart the loop randomly from any of 10 different places (i.e., 30 second increments) so as not to become “stale.” The panel also includes convenience features. Each of the three cabs may be shut off or its current reversed, regardless of the setting on its TE. Bipolar LEDs indicate the direction of current to the rails regardless of the panel/TE setting. The panel also includes a digital volt meter that can sample any of the three cabs’ outputs. Finally, the panel includes a diode matrix that allows groups of turnouts to be operated with the push of a single switch. These switches set various routes or reset the turnouts (as many as 20 at once) to default positions.

Trains run either fully automated for open houses or hands-on for operating sessions. The automation system is of my own concept, design, and construction, using 555 timing chips and relays to control the blocks and activate the turnouts. This allows the trains to pause and wait for each other as necessary. Automated signals accompany these train movements. Inevitably, someone at an open house asks, “How do you run the trains by computer?”

The trains When I first put in the railroad, I was enamored of the steam engines. We have a Bachmann Shay, Lyn, Consolidation, and industrial Mogul, none of which get regular run time. One of a pair Aristo-Craft C-16s is still used to shuttle bathers out to the hot springs on a regular basis, and a Hartland 0-4-0 pulls the Low-rider Train. An Accucraft Galloping Goose or AristoCraft railbus may be seen on the run from the station to the lake. However, all of the heavy work is now performed by diesels. Two Aristo-Craft FAs (one with an on-board TE/battery) and an FB may be found out on the line hauling freight. A USA Trains F3 typically hauls the heavyweight Daylight consist, while a couple of GP-9s also work freight duty, including the Bear Whiz Beer train. An Aristo-Craft RS-3 and USA Trains NW-2 and S-4 may be seen moving freight between Tortoise Town and Lizard Lane. USA Trains 44-tonners serve the mine and stamp mill. Finally, an Aristo-Craft U25B has been modified to serve as a track-cleaning engine, with the addition of an articulated drywall sander between the trucks. The

This control center, designed and built by the author, allows a wide variety of operational possibilities on the railroad. Two 24-pin connectors at the track and an extension cord allow for quick disconnection and storage of the entire electrical assembly in the garage. engine runs on either a 12-volt battery, to get the cleaning process started, or track power, once the rails are clean enough to keep the engine going. Many of the engines and freight cars were weathered using an airbrush, and some of the engines include Sierra sound and auxiliary lighting. I replace the batteries with super capacitors, negating the need to ever charge them again.

Humble beginnings To think that all of this began in the fall of 1996! While strolling through the Great American Train Store, we happened upon the large-scale equipment. I picked up

About the author Todd Brody is a self-employed Scientist/ Environmental Specialist with a degree in Environmental Biology. As an independent consultant, he regularly prepares both noise and airquality studies in support of Environmental Impact Reports and has worked in the environmental consulting field since 1978. As a child, he had both Lionel 0 and Marx HO sets, and always had a fascination for trains. The garden railroad gives him a chance to collect his thoughts while contemplating his next project. He has been Vice President of the Orange County Garden Railway Society since 2000. Other hobbies include classic Corvettes and high-end audio.

Robert Schleicher’s The Large-Scale Model Railroading Handbook and showed it to my wife, Linda. We decided it was pretty cool and we purchased the handbook and a copy of Garden Railways magazine. I planned the railroad on graph paper and in January 1997 and ordered track and turnouts. Ground was broken in April and we had our first open house in October. Of this six months, a month was spent building the control panel. Track was laid out in three interconnected loops, allowing three trains to run simultaneously, if the operator remained observant of doings at the 30-degree crossing between two of the loops. Over the next few years the railroad was expanded. I discovered the use of 555 chips and relays to control the blocks and began designing circuits to alleviate the problems at the crossing and allow several trains to run simultaneously. The railroad now enjoys a following. We have three to six open houses per year for railroad events, garden clubs, club meetings, and the neighborhood. Additionally, we run operations here with one of the local groups a couple times a year. While I enjoy running the trains and talking with visitors, working on the railroad and creating challenging new innovations is what brings me satisfaction of achievement.

www.GardenRailways.com | December 2013 51

Scale and gauge C

1

William Zuback

onfusion about scale and gauge continues to plague our hobby, so we felt that it was again time to try to set the record straight. The tables printed here will answer what is perhaps the most-often asked question Garden Railways hears: What are the differences between the scales and gauges? Over the years, all these scales and gauges have evolved, and some (which we have not listed) have died out. Granted, it is confusing, but we have attempted to print the correct information here in the most understandable form possible. It may take some study to learn it all. If you don’t feel like taking the time, just use the information below as a reference.

Track gauges as they relate to the different scales

1:24

Proportions of a model to its prototype Scale name

Proportion

1 ⁄2" scale 7 ⁄8" scale 16mm scale 15mm scale LGB (G scale) 1 ⁄2" scale —— 1 scale 0 scale (USA)

1:8 1:13.7 1:19 (approx.) 1:20.3 1:22.5 1:24 1:29 1:32 1:48

1

2

Written scale 11⁄2" = 1'0" ⁄8" = 1'0" 16mm = 1'0" 15mm = 1'0" 10 .533" =1'0" 1 ⁄2" =1'0" .414” = 1'0" 3 ⁄8" or 10mm = 1'0" 8 1 ⁄4" or 7mm = 1'0" 8

7

1:13.7

1:20.3

Track gauges commonly used in the garden Gauge 3 Gauge 1 4 (No name) Gauge 0

21⁄2" or 64mm 8 13⁄4" or 45mm 3 11⁄2" 9 11⁄4" or 32mm 8

Scale

Actual gauge

Represented gauge

Scaled gauge

1:8

Ga. 1

15" narrow

14"

1:13.7

Ga. 1

2' narrow

2'0"

1:19 5

Ga. 0

2' narrow

2'0"

1:20.3

Ga. 3 Ga. 1 7 Ga. 0

Standard 6 3' narrow 2' narrow

4'23⁄4" 3'0" 2'1"

1:22.5

Ga. 3 Ga. 1 Ga. 0

Standard 3' narrow 2' narrow

4'81⁄4" 3'31⁄3" 2'41⁄8"

1:24

Ga. 3 Ga. 1 Ga. 0

Standard 3' narrow 2' narrow

5'0" 3'6" 2'6"

1:29

Ga. 1

Standard

4'31⁄3"

1:32

Ga. 1 Ga. 0

Standard 3' narrow

4'8" 3'4"

Footnotes 1. Scale is simply the proportion of the model to the full-size item, while gauge is no more than the distance between the rails measured from the inside edge. The terms are sometimes incorrectly used interchangeably. 2. 11⁄2" scale is commonly used for larger, ride-on trains. However, there are some modelers who are using this scale on gauge-1 track to represent 15"-gauge railways, such as those designed by Sir Arthur Heywood in Britain. We’ve not listed the larger, ride-on gauges in this scale because they fall outside the scope of Garden Railways magazine. 3. There is a slight discrepancy between the metric measurements and the imperial. Today, gauge 1 is considered to be 45mm. 4. Gauge 1 is commonly—and incorrectly—called “G gauge” by some manufacturers and dealers. This is an unfortunate misnomer that merely adds to the confusion. G-scale trains run on gauge-1 track.

5. 1:19, or 16mm, scale evolved from gauge-0 (32mm) track. The idea was to choose an existing gauge and design models of 2'-gauge trains around it, which is why this scale works out quite well. However, modeling for other gauges in this scale is almost nonexistent, so only gauge 0 has been included here. 6. Standard gauge on full-size railroads is 4'81⁄2". Anything less is considered narrow gauge. Anything more is considered wide or broad gauge. 7. There was a gauge 2 (2"), which was quite popular in the early part of the century, but has long since died. 8. There is a slight discrepancy between the metric measurements and the imperial. 9. The correct gauge for accurate modeling of 3'-gauge trains in 1⁄2" scale. Little is commercially available in this gauge. 10. The correct scale for accurate modeling of 3'-gauge trains on gauge-1 track.

52 Garden Railways | December 2013

PART 1

Modifying a Ruby " 7 to ⁄8 -scale The design, the saddle tank, and more

By Eric Schade | Phippsburg, Maine | Photos and illustrations by the author

54 Garden Railways | December 2013

1. The Boothbay Railway Village museum houses two of the original S.D. Warren engines. This is Nº 1; Nº 2 is in the shop being restored by volunteers.

R

The model some ways but a problem in others. My I was looking for a winter project that line has covered bridges that limit the clearances for large equipment. So, the would take less time than scratchbuilding obvious trick is to choose small protoa live steamer. I had modified Accucraft types to model. Rubys before, and found them to be good, mechanically reliable places to start. The Cumberland Mills in Westbrook, (Vance Bass has a web page showing Maine, was a paper mill owned by the interesting Ruby projects: www.nmia. S.D. Warren Company. It was the first com/~vrbass/steam/ruby/rubygallery.htm) company in the world to use wood in the I spent some time doodling different production of paper, which had previously modifications to a stock Ruby on the been made from rags. Starting in 1874, computer. I drew the basic Ruby the company had a tramway powered wheels and mechanism to scale, by horses to move logs around A I and filled in new cabs, leadthe mill. In 1895, they R LWAY S DEN ing and trailing trucks, purchased two small different domes, and Baldwin tank engines to details. I had several difwork around the mill. ferent ideas but started The tiny, seven-ton thinking in a new direcengines, which are tion after looking at 7⁄8" about the size of a pickscale. This weeded out some up truck, saw heavy use for of my previous efforts and pointmany years, until they were ed me toward the S.D. Warren engine, sold in 1949. These industrial engines which, in 7⁄8" scale, fit quite well with the worked in obscurity behind factory gates, basic Ruby running gear (photo 2). I yet were every bit as much a Maine found quite a few photos of these engines narrow-gauge engine as any of the online to help me. As I drew it, I found more famous locomotives. the little beast quite interesting. It is far Baldwin and other manufacturers chunkier than 1:20.3 or 1:32 models and made “standard” industrial engines to diminutive proportions. When on the job, it just oozed character (figures 1 and 2). When building this model, I had great these engines were often hidden from fun making stuff in the same way as was public view but existed in surprising numbers. They were used for construction done on the prototype. Parts are large enough to see, and bolts and rivets are projects in New Jersey and on sugar planavailable that match the size of the scaled tations in Hawaii. Several still exist to be prototype. I used real wood for the wood restored, including S.D. Warren’s Nºs 1 parts and metal for the metal parts—even (photo 1) and 2 at the Boothbay Railway a little glass where that should be. Village here in Maine (www.railway I planned this project to investigate village.org).

ED

A GA

T C E J PARO

The new S.D. Warren Nº 2 pauses by the superintendent’s house. The author used an Accucraft Ruby as the basis for this 7⁄8"-scale conversion.

I

am fascinated by the little two-footgauge trains that ran in my home state of Maine from the 1880s through the 1930s. I have been building models of them in 1:20.3 scale for several years. If you do the math, though, you will find that gauge-one track scales out to three feet at 1:20.3 scale, which really isn’t right for Maine narrow gauge. However, if you build the model to a proportion of 1:13.7 (7⁄8" = 1'), you get a model more correctly proportioned for two-foot gauge. The models are also larger. This is a benefit in

D VA N C

www.GardenRailways.com | December 2013 55

several aspects of the hobby. I wanted to see what I thought of 7⁄8" scale, I wanted to expand my modeling skills, and I also wanted to experiment with different fuels for live-steam operation. That required me to build a boiler—but that is another story entirely.

Getting started

2. It is interesting how the size of the Ruby mechanism seems to shrink when a 1:13.7-scale figure is placed next to it.

Figure 1

Scale 1:13.7 ( 7⁄8 "=1'-0")

SD Warren #1 built by Baldwin in 1895 as #14283 #2 built 1896 as #14522

The smokebox on the prototype engine has prominent rivets. To make them on my model, I started by laying out the rivet pattern with a Sharpie marker, followed by carefully and accurately marking them with a sharp scriber (photo 3), which scores a fine line in the metal that shows up clearly against the black pen marks. I then carefully center-punched each rivet location and drilled a clearance hole for a brass escutcheon pin. This process was made easier because I was making the boiler from flat stock rather than a pipe, so the layout, drilling, and rivet insertion was easy. The process would be similar for a cylindrical part. I cut each escutcheon pin off flush with the inside of the smokebox and set them with a nail punch with a semi-circular dimple in the end. The escutcheon-pin heads make pretty good rivets as is, but my punch shaped them to look a bit more realistic (photo 4). You can also just glue them into a plastic boiler tube with good results. I machined the front of the smokebox from a piece of brass plate (photo 5). I have a little computer-controlled milling machine that made quick work of drilling an array of holes, which I then threaded to accept 1-72 hex-head machine screws (photo 6). It is not difficult to lay out the holes manually, though. I used my lathe to shape the smokebox front to represent the pressed-steel cover with its distinctive domed shape. This is trickier to do without a lathe but a clever person can find a way!

The saddle tank

Figure 2 The author drew a scale drawing of the engine before starting the project. While not an exact replica of the prototype, it captures the feel of the small industrial engine. 56 Garden Railways | December 2013

The S.D. Warren engine has a saddle tank that carried 200 gallons of water. I wanted my model to have one also. As this was a live steamer, I wanted the tank to actually hold water for the boiler, so I decided to make the tank from copper sheet, soldered together. I started this project by cutting the outer jacket and marking it for rivets. These rivets are smaller than those on the smokebox, so I used a rivet former I had

3. To model the rivet detail on the smokebox of the locomotive, the author first laid out the location of each rivet right on the metal.

4. Each hole was center-punched, then drilled. An escutcheon pin was placed into each hole and set with a punch.

5. The front of the smokebox was machined from brass on a lathe.

6. Holes for the bolts were carefully laid out and drilled, then threaded for 1-72 bolts.

7. A home-made rivet-embossing tool was used to form dummy rivet heads.

8. There were many smaller rivets on the saddle tank, but these were easy to simulate with the embossing tool. www.GardenRailways.com | December 2013 57

9. The author enjoyed making the brass domes for this project on his metal lathe.

10. The chassis, boiler, tank, and domes. The rivets on the copper saddle tank make it look more realistic.

11. The numeral “2” for the number plate was cut from brass with a jeweler’s saw and needle files.

12. The number was silver-soldered to the machinedbrass number plate.

made in my high-school days (photo 7). It is basically a rounded center punch that is guided into an anvil with a matching hole. I line up the punch with the mark on my metal and give it a whack with a little hammer. The punch forms fake rivet heads on the smooth sheet metal (photo 8). Similar tools are available from hobby suppliers. Because the tank is an odd shape, I soldered a sheet of copper onto each end of the formed wrapper to make the tank ends, and later trimmed them to fit. I used silver solder because it stands up to the boiler’s heat and it’s easier to solder up in stages than soft solder. A nibbler is just the tool for cutting away the excess metal. If you like to work in styrene, a similar technique should work for you. My tank has two vertical tubes in it that provide give access to the safety valve and filler cap for the boiler. I used my machinist’s lathe to machine new domes

from solid brass (photo 9) but I might just as well have used the original Ruby domes. I also machined a fancy cover for the water fill hatch and the base and cap for the smoke stack (photo 10). If you think you would like to scratchbuild things, a small lathe is a useful tools with which you can make all kinds of things for the railway, both decorative and functional. It can take time to learn to use a lathe but you may find adult-education courses that will help you learn. There is also plenty of information online, including how-to videos, question-and-answer forums, and more.

58 Garden Railways | December 2013

The number plate The number plate on the front of the smokebox of a live-steam locomotive gets hot, so I could not use plastic or even a white-metal casting. However, it was not too hard to make my own. Of course, I

only had to make one number! I started by machining the plate itself on my lathe, complete with a threaded hole for mounting it. Next, I drew a numeral “2” on a piece of brass sheet, the correct size to fit the plate. Then, using a jewelers saw, I cut out the number. I used needle files to file the outline of the “2” until it was smooth and looked good (photo 11). I checked it by placing it on the number plate. When satisfied, I soldered it onto the plate (photo 12). Again, I used silver solder, which is no more difficult to use than regular plumber’s or electrician’s solder; it just melts at a higher temperature. I later painted the plate, then polished the paint off the number. It looks pretty good to me. Even if you work in plastic, consider making brass numbers and epoxying them to the number plate. The real brass looks so nice! I wanted the engine to look well cared for but worked hard. I decided to paint the saddle tank glossy black, which will tone down a bit with the oil and soot from the engine. I decided to try chemically blackening the boiler. As only the smokebox is seen, that is what I was most interested in. MicroMark sells a product called “Blacken-it,” which didn’t so much blacken the copper as antiqued it, which was fine by me. I just brushed it on and allowed it to sit for a time before rinsing it with warm water. In use, the oil and soot have made the smokebox look just right! You can see this in the lead photo. Next time, I’ll describe how I made the cab, the headlight, the bell, and other details.

Make a

no-solder metal raIlIng Standard hardware-store materials do the trick

by Steve Kamm | Oklahoma City, Oklahoma | Photos by the author

Pieces of brass rod and tube have been cut to length and partially assembled with cotter pins.

R

the distance between the stanchions, to form the upper railing. Naturally, these dimensions can be altered to suit your own individual circumstances. Once the four tubes/rods were cut to size and loosely assembled as shown in the photos, I joined the pieces using Loctite Superglue Gel. While the assembled safety railing was quite stable by itself, using the gel helped fill in gaps between the parts. When dry, I primed the assembly with silver paint, followed by a spray of the final color. All that remained was to mount the safety railing on the structure. Once completed and mounted, however, I realized I could have used a longer upper railing, bent horizontally 90°, to continue around the corner of the porch. The photos show this quick-and-easy method for creating no-solder metal safety railings.

T C E J O PR B ER

I

wanted to add a metal safety railing to the wooden porch on one of my new structures. My soldering abilities are limited, so I began looking for an alternative method of construction. Remembering that I had previously used small cotter pins to add uncoupling levers to freight cars, I thought they might be useful for joining railing parts. At our local Ace Hardware store, I found 3⁄32"-diameter brass rods and tubes, as well as a supply of cotter pins. Fortunately, the eyes in my small cotter pins were a near-perfect size to hold the rods and tubes, while the legs of the cotters fit inside the tubes. A substantial T-joint could be formed by inserting a rod or tube through the eye of a cotter pin to form the crossbar, while the legs inserted into a tube formed the stem of the “T.”

N RAILWAYS

DE To make the safety railing, I used tubes for the upright stanchions and mid-level horizontal railing. Using a solid rod for the upper horizontal railing enabled me to easily create a downward bend at one end to match the stairs. I began construction by drilling two 3⁄32"-diameter vertical mounting holes in the front corners of the wooden porch. These holes were about 17⁄8" apart. Brass tubes were inserted into the holes to form the upright stanchions. A model workman was placed on the porch, and I eye-balled an appropriate stanchion height, which turned out to be 15⁄8". Another piece of tubing was cut to form the mid-level horizontal railing. I cut this piece 1�8" shorter than the space between the stanchions, leaving a 1�16" gap at each end of the horizontal rail. Finally, I cut a section of solid brass rod 1�2" longer than A GA

This metal railing is not only durable and damage resistant, it is easy to construct out of brass without soldering.

EGINN

The assembled and glued railing, prior to painting.

The finished railing, primed, and ready for its final coat of paint and installation. www.GardenRailways.com | December 2013 61



Visit

the Sundance Central A 1:20.3-scale modular railroad owned by a club

Keith Wolfe

by Frank Palmer | Hudson, Florida | Photos as noted

1. Nº 361 eases onto the turntable in the yard. The yard area is located on the T-extension of the layout.

T

he Sundance Central today is nothing like we, its original designers, had in mind. Our conceptual idea was to have an indoor show layout that was detailed, realistic, and portable. We thought the modules should be interchangeable so that we could rearrange, add, or delete them as the situation arose. Above all, though, the layout must have portability. Several other modular groups have built beautiful layouts but their excessive weight became their downfall. Richard Schmitt and I asked other members of our local Florida Garden Railroad group (Tampa Bay Division) if they were interested in forming a modular

64 Garden Railways | December 2013

group. Within a few weeks we had eight members, which was enough to get started. I designed several trackplans in AutoCAD to be approved by the group. The intention was to keep the modules as lightweight as possible, yet strong enough to handle heavy Accucraft and Berlyn locomotives. (Some of our locomotives weigh close to 30 pounds.) Richard and I had already decided to use a 1" x 4" wood frame, with 2" x 2" cross members and 2"-thick Styrofoam insulation for the deck. I built a curved and a straight section as examples for the group to see and approve. Everyone was in agreement and construction of an offset oval consisting of 22 modules

began in January of 2004. Detachable legs are made with fourfoot long 2 x 2s, inserted into pockets at the four corners of each module, again keeping the weight to a minimum. Having this many modules would also allow for variations of the trackplan. Modules consist of three different modular shapes: straight, transition, and curve sections. The transition section would allow trackage to move from the front edge to the rear edge of the module, allowing us to integrate the curve sections as inside or outside curves. This concept can be seen in the trackplan. A couple of the members were leery of the trestles being able to support heavy locomotives.

IllustratIon by rIchard schmItt

Richard and I assured them they would work and, as it turned out, the trestles are the anchors of the layout. The large cliff areas at either end of the trestles act as lateral bracing.

4

3

Concept 2

a backdrop and operated the layout from the outside, allowing better interaction with people. Also, the backdrop hid all of our stored junk on the inside.

1

Operation

rIchard schmItt

7 At first, the layout was track powered. However, we soon 6 5 converted to AirWire remote control and battery power, relieving the ability to do sounds at any time and us of dead spots due to dirty track, place on the layout. The Sundance Cenvoltage variances, and polarity mixes. We tral almost becomes a sight-and-sound can now run multiple trains on a single overload for viewers. track at the same time, providing that we operate them at the same speed. Most of our operations consist of a Track single train on each of the two mainlines, The mainline track and turnouts were running in opposite directions. This gives assembled using hand-spiked Llagas us and the viewer constant train activity. Creek code-250 aluminum rail and HartIn addition, the remote controls give us ford Products tie plates on hand-cut wood

KeIth Wolfe

The fundamental concept of the Sundance Central was to incorporate a single southwestern theme throughout. Additionally, we insisted on having a highly detailed layout, more along the lines of smaller-scale home layouts. We believe this is the largest 1:20.3 scale, portable modular layout built to this level of detail. We started out with each of us owning two, three, or four modules, depending on what ideas each member had in mind. After several years it became obvious that restricting our ideas to specific modules went against the flow of creativity. It’s much easier to consider the entire modular railroad as an open canvas and drop the idea of individual ownership. Within the past two years we’ve incorporated our organization, furthering the group ownership concept. We soon realized that altering the configuration wasn’t going to be an option. Flipping the modules or deleting one here and there just wouldn’t work and would look out of place. The placement of structures, scenery, and the two 15'-long trestles lent themselves to a single operating plan and viewing side. In the beginning, we operated from the open center but that made it hard to converse with the public. We then put up

The layout is being set up at the 28th National Narrow Gauge Convention (in 2008) in the atrium of the Holiday Inn in Portland, Oregon. This was the second leg of the layout’s Florida-California-Oregon-home tour (6,500 miles).

2. Nº 6 is coming around the curved trestle in front of the high falls. Note the realistic water and natural debris at the base of the trestle. www.GardenRailways.com | December 2013 65

4. The mill supervisor’s quarters. The oxen team struggles to pull one huge log.

ties. The ties measure 3⁄8" wide x 5⁄16" high x 41⁄4" long. As the years went by, the yard and the crossover were added. No tie plates or ballast were used on these two areas and the ties were reduced to a height of 3⁄16", giving the track that low-maintenance look. Using hand-spiked rail on wood ties makes the track a point of interest as well. Each route of the doubletrack mainline has about 115' of track. The two trestle sections are approximately 15' long and 28" high. One is curved and the other is “S”-shaped. Both were built of hand-cut cedar, assembled on a jig. Trestle track is laid on 3⁄4" MDF board cut to resemble individual timbers. This makes for a very rigid assembly. The curved trestle is made of three track sections, one for each of the three modules. The “S” trestle is also three-modules long

66 Garden Railways | December 2013

keith WolFe

Frank Palmer

3. A wide angle view of the mill camp.

5. The shop gang relaxes outside the enginehouse with a friendly game of cards during their lunch break.

but has two track sections that join at a steel-bridge center span. The bents, bracing, and track sections are all removable to permit easier transportation and to help maintain lightweight modules.

Expansion and logistics In the early years, each member was responsible for the storage and transportation of his own modules, rolling stock, and equipment. It was a huge amount of material, considering each of us had, in addition to the modules, several locomotives, rolling stock, buildings, and trees, plus Richard and I had the trestle pieces. That meant a lot of coordination and planning of the members to assure everything was brought to the shows. A couple of members left the group and Dave Revelia joined, bringing along two associate

members, Brian Nolan, modeler extraordinaire, and Jon Addison, of Silverton Central fame. Due to a heart attack, we lost Brian in August of 2010; he is missed by everyone who knew him—a true genius of a modeler. Two years ago, Dave purchased a 7,500-square-foot building, now named the Suncoast Center for Fine Scale Modeling, which will serve as home to the Sundance Central. He envisioned the Sundance Central expanding in size and theme; more buildings, more visual candy, more of everything. Just when I thought it had expanded as far as it could, it expanded some more. The Sundance was out of control—a simple modular railroad that was now on steroids. Prior to going to the 2008 National Narrow Gauge Convention (NNGC),

Jim Hopes

7. The loading dock at Millroy’s Feed & Grain. In the background is Sundance Depot.

hold from three to five modules, each on its own shelf. Once again, to maintain portability, several of the modules have removable buildings, and most of the tall trees, from 12" to 54", are removable. We have other rolling cabinets for rolling stock, buildings, trees, lighting, and electrical equipment. We have come to realize that everything must have, or be mounted on, wheels. We ain’t gettin’ any younger! For shows and conventions outside the center, we rent two 26' trucks with lift tailgates. Having our layout contained in rolling cabinets gives us the easy loading and unloading so necessary for time-saving moves. The Sundance Central has been on exhibition in Tampa, Florida; Perry, Georgia; Portland, Maine; Ontario, California; Portland, Oregon; St. Louis, Missouri;

Dale macKeoWn

Dave suggested we build the six-module yard. Then, for the 2010 NNGC, we added the four-module crossover with sawmill and ore tipple. And, for the 2011 NNGC, we added the three-module logging-camp area adjacent to the sawmill (not shown on the trackplan). These additions gave us a fresh look and something new for the conventioneers to see. Judging by the current size of the Sundance Central, which is roughly a “T” configuration, 40' x 40', with 41 modules, you’d think we’d have a small army of roadies to assist with the assembly and disassembly of the railroad. Not so. It’s the seven of us, along with the help of a couple friends. It takes 12 to 15 hours to set up and only five hours to pack the SC. The thing that made us so efficient was constructing rolling cabinets that

KeitH Wolfe

KeitH Wolfe

6. A view of the machine shop looking into the enginehouse. The two-cylinder Shay can just be seen through the open door at the rear.

The Sundance Central crew, from left are: Richard Schmitt, Jim Hopes, Dale MacKeown, Frank Palmer, Keith Wolfe, and Dave Revelia. Not shown: associate member Jon Addison. and Hickory, North Carolina. At the 2007 National Narrow Gauge Convention in Portland, Maine, the Sundance Central won first place in Modular Layouts and, with the new yard area added at the 2008 NNCG in Portland, Oregon, it won first place in Modular Layouts and Best of Show. We are very proud of our layout and the recognition we’ve received.

www.GardenRailways.com | December 2013 67

MINISCAPING DON PARKER

Photos by the author

How to model unimproved roads

A “corduroy” road has been built through an area of simulated soft dirt and mud using straight sticks and my bonder “dirt.” The dirt-road section leading to the logged area is made of sphagnum peat moss and vermiculite.

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oday, it is hard to imagine the great leap forward in transportation that railroads brought to remote rural areas. My Hoot ’n’ Holler Railroad models this transition period in southeastern Ohio and West Virginia in the early 1900s. Most country roads in those areas were unimproved, mostly dirt with occasional cobble or log base. Some small towns could afford graded gravel streets. The situation before railroads is colorfully described in Edward H. Cass’s book Hidden Treasures: The Story of the Ohio River and Western Railway (1997, Timber Times): “. . . everything which moved in or out of the area had to be hauled over dirt (or mud) roads. These were rough, but usable when they were dry. However,

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summer rainshowers made them impassable. Farmers could use horse-drawn sleds on the frozen highways in the winter, but sudden thaws frequently left them stranded. At their worst, heavily used dirt roads could develop mudholes so deep that they threatened to drown horses. . . . Monroe County (southeastern Ohio) was mudbound at least six months of the year. . . . [One road] trip (9 miles hard surface, 9 miles dirt) took eight hours if all went well, and for this terrible service the passenger paid $1.50, or about eight cents a mile. The railroad, when it came, would charge three cents a mile for a much shorter and far more comfortable ride.” I have been experimenting with various materials to reproduce these

deplorable roads in my landscape. In my August 2005 “Miniscaping” column, I described the use of hypertufa (a mix of cement and screened sphagnum peat moss) to make dirt roads. This was durable but difficult to repair when chunks of it broke off after winter frost heave. My most recent road-making efforts have been with a concrete bonder agent (a liquid acrylic-polymer formulation used to strengthen concrete). Mixed with various organic and mineral materials, this has produced durable, slightly flexible roads that survive winter assaults well and are easily repaired when needed. Ken Martin wrote about his experience with this agent in the April, 2006 issue of GR, where he described the making of asphalt-like roads

1. Materials that the author uses for his roads are (clockwise from upper left): sphagnum peat moss, sawdust, bank-run sand, screened pea gravel, and builder’s sand (vermiculite is not shown). The quarter is for size comparison. 2. A simulated dirt road made of sphagnum peat moss, sawdust, and a little sand, held together with concrete bonding agent. On the near side is a cobble approach to the crossing.

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4 3. In the town of Flat Rock the streets are gravel and cobble. This was laid out and made before the buildings were added in the spring.

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4. A close up of the gravel-cobble street by the station. The section under the cars is over a year old with a just-repaired section (lighter) in the foreground. www.GardenRailways.com | December 2013 71

MINISCAPING CONTINUED with gray stone-yard fines. For my unimproved roads, I use fine builder’s sand, course sand (bank-run sand, torpedo sand), screened pea gravel, vermiculite (an expanded silica material), sphagnum peat moss, and sawdust (photo 1). The latter two organic materials hold up better if combined with equal parts sand or vermiculite. I mix the dry agents in proportions that give the coarseness I want for the road surface. Sphagnum peat moss and vermiculite combine to make a believable dirt road (see the lead photo), and the addition of sawdust makes it look coarser (photo 2). Adding sand to this mix makes a more durable road without detracting from its “dirt” look. Fine builder’s sand, also called sharp sand, by itself produces a smoother surface that resembles a graded gravel road. Fine sand mixed with screened pea gravel (with stones from 1⁄8" to 1⁄4") gives the effect of a gravel-andcobble street (photos 3 and 4), and bankrun sand (unwashed sand containing clay and tiny rocks), with or without a little screened pea gravel, looks like a rocky-dirt unimproved road (photo 5). I add the concrete bonder full strength to the dry material in an amount that produces a stiff, dough-like consistency (photo 6). I want the material to hang together but not become too wet (since concrete bonder is not cheap). The mix can be spread on compacted dirt or, better, a bed of crushed limestone. I use a small, flat garden shovel or trowel to compress the mixture and shape it (photo 7). I add a final touch by making ruts and pot holes (photo 8). It is wise to wear vinyl or latex gloves while working with the bonder agent, as it does not wash off easily (think “latex paint”). When making grade crossings, the mix can be formed right up to the outside of the rails (photo 2). I add wood planking between the rails to complete the crossing. I wanted to model a section of “corduroy road,” the term used to aptly describe a base of logs laid cross-wise in the road in particularly wet areas, such as through swamps and seeps. I chose an area under a viaduct, filled the low spot with my dirt mix, and pressed in straight sticks, with bark on, side-by-side to achieve the effect (lead photo).

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5 5. This rural road is made of bank sand with a little screened pea gravel to give it more variation. (The stubborn mule is a modified commercial item and the muleteer figure is made of Sculpey.)

6 6. Mixing materials with the bonding agent. Here, the author used sphagnum peat moss, vermiculite, and a little builder’s sand.

7 7. The mix is pressed into place with a shovel and smoothed to facilitate bonding.

8 8. Ruts are easily made with this tool (two large washers pressed onto a section of curtain-rod tubing).

RAISING STEAM

JEFF YOUNG

Photo by the author

Answers to more live-steam questions

A live-steam Denver and Rio Grande K-27, painted and weathered by Rob Lenicheck, steams on the mainline at Staver Locomotive in Portland, Oregon.

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his time we’ll look at more questions about small-scale-live-steam locomotives, gathered from folks I have talked with at recent steamups who are new to the hobby. Do small-scale-live-steam-locomotive boilers have to be routinely pressure tested? Larger scale (ride-on) modelengineering clubs often have boiler-testing requirements for insurance purposes. Commercially manufactured small-scalelive-steam locomotives are typically exempted from boiler-testing requirements due their relatively smaller boiler volumes and working pressures. (“Working pressure” is the pressure at which the safety valves are set to lift.) Boilers of commercially produced locomotives will have been tested at the factory. Boilers on scratchbuilt locomotives should be routinely tested and, in fact, a number of organizations will require this. The usual procedure is to test the boiler to 1.5 times the working pressure. Water (pressurized by a hand pump) is used in the boiler rather than steam for the pressure test. If the boiler should fail, all that will result is a wet workbench, rather than a more potentially dangerous result if steam was used.

One item that should also be routinely tested on all locomotives is the safety valve. Most safety valves have a small rod or pin protruding from the top. When the boiler is under pressure, pull up on the pin with a pair of tweezers or small needlenose pliers to ensure that it “lifts” properly. Also, it is wise to ensure that it lifts at the correct working pressure. This can be done by simply observing the pressure gauge when the safety valve lifts. Typically, the working pressure is listed in the locomotive’s owner’s manual. Does the boiler need to be emptied the water after every run? If you plan to run your engine every few weeks, there is no need to drain the boiler. If a locomotive is to be stored for an extended period of time (say over the winter), it’s a good idea to drain the boiler. One thing related to the boiler that should be done after each run is to ensure that steam oil is not drawn into the boiler. Often, if the throttle valve is left open (or, more likely, it does not seal completely), oil will be drawn into the boiler as the boiler cools and a vacuum is created. This will create a mess inside the boiler and will affect a locomotive’s performance. To prevent this from occurring, ensure that air

can get into the boiler by either removing the safety valve or the Goodall-type filler valve after the run. Some locomotives have valves to indicate when the boiler is filled sufficiently with water. Leaving this valve open has the same effect. Does the displacement lubricator need to be drained after every run? The displacement lubricator should be drained of water at the end of each run. There is no need to drain it completely of steam oil though. In fact, it can be topped up with oil and left for the next run. The rationale for topping up the steam oil after a run is that the lubricator is warm and the thick steam oil will flow more freely, ensuring that it is topped up to the proper level. Speaking of the proper level, don’t fill the lubricator all the way to the top. Leave a small space for steam to gather so that it can condense into water and displace the steam oil.

FOR EVERYONE: Find answers to more common livesteam questions on our website. Click on “Live steam” under “For beginners.”

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EVENTS 12-19 January 2014: International Small Scale Steamup, Diamondhead, MS. • Terry Smelser, 985-373-7593 • [email protected] • www. diamondhead.org 8-9 March, 2014: 11th Annual “Rails in the Garden” Tour, Tucson Garden Railway Society, Tucson AZ. Chuck Cook • [email protected] • http://tucsongrs.org 21-22 March, 2014: East Coast Large Scale Train Show, York Expo Center, York, PA. JJ Productions, PO Box 142, Ridgeley WV 26753 • jjproductions@ atlanticbb.net • www.eclsts.com 5-10 May, 2014: 30th National Garden Railway Convention, Tampa, FL. Mike Setzer • 954-476-1058 • setzer [email protected] or wendy.setzer@ yahoo.com • http://wendysetzer.wix.com/ ngrc2014tampa 14 June, 2014: Gauge One Expo, Gauge 1 Model Railway Association, Warwickshire Exhibition Centre, near Leamington Spa, UK. Graham Colover • [email protected] • www.g1mra.com 20-22 June, 2014: West Coast Regional Meet 2014, Sacramento Valley Garden Railway Society • www.svgrs.org • SVGRS, PO Box 276031, Sacramento CA 95827, Attn: WCRM 22-27 June, 2014: “Headin’ to Hershey/2014” Big Train Operator Club Convention, Hershey, PA. • Bob Somogyi • [email protected] or 630-562-5420 • www.bigtrainoperator.com Future Garden Railway Conventions 2015: Denver, CO 2016: Bay Area, CA Event notices are published at no charge. Due to space limitations, we will accept, at our discretion, listings that pertain to predominantly garden-railway or small-scalelive-steam events. Listings that reach us before our deadline and fit the space available will be published. Send your listings to Garden Railways, PO Box 460222, Denver CO 80246, or e-mail them to mhorovitz@ gardenrailways.com.

Find more model-train events in our online database at Trains.com. Click on “Coming events” under “Resources.” www.GardenRailways.com | December 2013 77

ONLINE STATION VANCE BASS

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take it for granted that anyone reading this column is interested in machines to one extent or another. So, I think everyone will be interested in these two sites. Are you familiar with Tim Hunkin? He’s talented in an impressive number of ways, but you may have heard of him via his TV show, “The Secret Life of Machines.” He recently installed a clock at the Exploratorium, a hands-on science museum in San Francisco. Be sure to watch the video of Tim explaining the concept and workings of the clock. Genius! blog.dugnorth.com/2013/08/ tinkerers-clock-by-artist-tim-hunkin-at.html A lot of the interesting stuff on the clock is simple mechanical animation of the sort some garden railroaders do. It’s obvious how most of it works but, if you’re keen on animating stuff on your railroad or want to build some impressive freightcar loads or are just fascinated with ingenious mechanical things, you should know of the book, 507 Mechanical Movements. This book, published in 1868, shows a staggering number of ways to convert or harness mechanical forces—just about any mechanism you can imagine is in it. You can buy reprints or download a free copy at pdnotebook.com/2010/02/; an even better source is this website: 507movements.com Its creators have taken the illustrations from the book and are gradually creating CAD-based animations for all 507 movements. As of this writing, the animations are clustered between numbers 110-150 and 320-350, with random others. Speaking of freight-car loads, there are some terrific plans for farm implements, machine tools, and a stationary steam engine at vintageprojects.com Any of these would look great on a flat car or gondola, braced in a wood shipping cradle. Wouldn’t a farm tractor built from Model T parts be smashing? There are two different plans on the site. Find a die-cast Model T, follow the plans to build your tractor, and amaze your friends. I think you’ll find lots of project ideas, from dead simple to complex, in these sites. Of course, you might also find a project you can’t pass up for your 1:1 scale house. The “Fish Head Ashtray” would certainly be a conversation starter.

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PRODUCT REVIEWS

Fares, please!

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he Birney Safety Car was a streetcar invented in 1915. It was lightweight, inexpensive to operate, and incorporated a number of innovative features for the time. The original design was a single-truck car but, in the 1920s, a larger, two-truck version was developed. It is this version that is modeled by Hartland Locomotive Works. The model is constructed primarily of injection-molded, plastic parts. When compared to photographs of the prototype, it appears to be an accurate representation of a two-truck Birney Safety Car. Doors do not open and the windows are frosted, preventing the interior to be viewed. The interior of the car contains only the electrics required for the lights. There is a headlight at either end of the symmetrical car, as well as two interior lights, which are on brass stalks that extend up from the floor. The lights are

Vital statistics

1:24 scale, gauge-1 streetcar Hartland Locomotive Works PO Box 1743 LaPorte IN 46352 Price: $335.95 Website: www.h-l-w.com All-plastic model of a two-truck Birney streetcar; one powered truck; directional lighting; illuminated interior; power pickup from wheels only (all wheels); dummy trolley poles. Dimensions: Length, 18"; width, 4"; height (over roof), 5¾"

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incandescent grain-of-wheat bulbs, as opposed to LEDs. As such, they get brighter as more power is applied. The car features one powered truck and one dummy, although both trucks serve to pick up power. As supplied, the trolley poles are not functional, although the instructions provided with the model say they can be made so. For information on how to do this conversion you must contact the factory. Trolley poles are all metal and have shoes (as opposed to wheels) on their ends. I found that the poles on our review sample did not swivel. Each is held to the roof with a single screw that had been screwed down so tightly that they not only bound up the poles but deflected the roof walk as well. Loosening the screws a little freed up the poles but it appears the roof walk is permanently deflected. Plastic hooks in the roof walks hold the poles in the “down” position. Separate pole cables are supplied that you may install, or not, as you wish. For installation, a cable is slipped through a hole in the trolley shoe and knotted. The other end is inserted through a hole provided in the end of the car body. The pole is raised

or lowered to the desired position, and a plastic plug is inserted into the hole, holding the cable in position. On a full-size car, the cable would automatically retract into a cable reel. An imaginative modeler might be able to rig up some kind of retracting mechanism. The car is painted a subdued blue, with red doors and white windows. The paint job is excellent. The unit is lettered for the “Municipal Transit Authority” and the destination signs at each end say “Main Street,” making this a pretty generic streetcar. Lettering on the side is white but is not as opaque as it could be. Instructions supplied with the car state that this car runs on 12V linear DC only. Pulse power, it is also stated, will cause the motor to overheat, as will more than 12V. DCC can be installed by the user but, again, it must be a system that provides only linear DC power. In operation, the car runs smoothly and quietly. Slow-speed operation is excellent. At full voltage (12V), the top speed did not seem very fast—perhaps 15-20 scale miles per hour. However, contrary to the instructions, when I bumped the voltage up to, say, 15-18V, the car travelled much faster. To resolve this apparent conflict between the printed instructions and actual experience, I contacted the factory. I was told that the information included in the instructions was for some of the company’s other products and should not have been included in our review sample. In fact, the Mabuchi motor supplied with the streetcar is good up to 30V DC, so feel free to give it the juice. Hartland’s two-truck Birney Safety Car is a welcome addition to the few choices we have when it comes to streetrailway equipment. It is a basic, well-made machine that looks good and has excellent performance characteristics. —Marc Horovitz

Pros and cons

Pros: Good representation of a two-truck Birney streetcar; simple electrics; good multi-color paint job; smooth, quiet operation Cons: Trolley poles unpowered (can be made operational); no interior detail

Subscribers: Watch a video of this streetcar in action. Go to www.GardenRailways.com and click on the “Product videos” tab under “Product & hobby news.”

PRODUCT REVIEWS CONTINUED

Spanning the gap

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he American Made Steel Bridge company offers a variety of bridges for both 0-scale and large-scale trains. Sent to us for review were a pair of 18" truss bridges (#10048, $108 each), an extra deck (#10049, $30), and a pair of straps to span the tops of the bridges (#10050, $5 for both). All necessary screws and nuts were included and everything in the package is made of stainless steel. While this is not a kit, some assembly is required. Each 18" bridge is supplied built up and ready to go. Bridges are made of 24-gauge sheet metal, with components

Vital statistics

Stainless-steel truss bridge American Made Steel Bridge Inc. PO Box 151 Winter Haven FL 33884 Price: See text Website: www.americanmade steelbridges.com Truss bridge (#11036) for gauge-1 track; all stainless-steel construction from sheet metal; spot-welded construction; some assembly required; screws and nuts supplied; some holes must be drilled; instructions supplied. Dimensions: Length overall, 36"; width, 6"; height, 10" (inside clearance, 95⁄8")

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spot welded together. The two bridges are to be combined, end to end with the extra deck plate, forming a single truss bridge 36" long. The first line of the instructions reads, “Caution, edges are sharp.” This is not an overstatement—they are very sharp indeed! If I was going to keep this bridge for use on my own railroad, I would first go over all of the sheared edges with a flat file to remove the sharp and jagged burrs, as these do present a hazard, especially if children will be in contract with the bridges. I really feel that the bridges should not be shipped without these sharp edges being removed at the factory. The two bridges are first connected using an extra deck plate. This is inverted and screwed to the undersides of the bridges with the screws and nuts provided. Slotted holes are punched into the respective deck plates to facilitate this. I found that the holes lined up well and there was no difficulty in securing the two bridges to the third deck plate. The instructions are emphatic that double nuts be used on all screws to prevent vibration, when the bridge is in use, from causing the nuts to loosen. This seems a good plan and adequate nuts were supplied in the package for this purpose. To form a continuous truss, as opposed to two truss bridges placed end to end, straps are supplied that are to be attached

to the top members of each bridge, essentially creating a single structure. This is where the instructions start to get a little murky. The straps have slotted holes punched in them and there are also holes punched in the sides of the bridges’ top members. However, the instructions call for the purchaser to drill additional 1⁄8" holes in the top surfaces of the top members to match the holes in the straps. The reason for this was not explained. However, I followed the instructions. I found that 1⁄8" holes were not big enough for the screws supplied, so I opened them up to 5⁄32". Stainless steel is tough stuff and, once the holes were drilled, there were nasty burrs left on the underside. I removed these with my Dremel and a grinding bit. Once the holes were drilled, I screwed the straps to the tops of the bridges with the remaining screws. The resulting structure is quite solid and should support even the heaviest train over its full length with no problem. It should be noted that this bridge is not a scale model, nor is it advertised as such. It is a functional truss bridge, designed for service, and it carries no extra details. In the garden, it should provide decades of use. The stainless steel will not corrode or degrade, though its shiny finish should tone down some over the years. If you’re looking for a solid truss bridge to span a gap, this is definitely one to consider. —M. Horovitz

Pros and cons

Pros: Sturdy, durable bridge; should support the heaviest trains; stainless-steel requires no paint or protection from the environment Cons: Instructions confusing at times; very sharp edges from manufacturing pose hazard

Pushbutton command

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ith many of today’s advanced control systems, it seems that some handheld throttles have enough buttons on them to fly the space shuttle. This isn’t necessarily a bad thing but, for those who crave simplicity, it can be a little overwhelming. It’s refreshing to see a manufacturer take a step in the other direction, simplifying the user interface for controlling the trains and doing so without a lot of sacrifice in terms of functionality. G-Scale Graphics’ new Railboss 4 throttle and receiver is just that kind of product. G-Scale Graphics has been doing R/C electronics for a while now, and this board is the latest in their evolving product line. The throttle fits easily

Vital statistics Radio-control system for large-scale trains G-Scale Graphics 4118 Clayton Ct. Fort Collins CO 80525 Prices: Railboss 4 receiver, $89; six-button transmitter, $89 Website: www.gscalegraphics.net Railboss 4 radio-control system; 2.4 gHz; controls speed, direction, plus four sound and/or light functions, with automation capability

into the palm of your hand. It has six buttons to control the locomotive and its available functions. The functions of these buttons are labeled on a sticker at the bottom of the transmitter. I’d probably take a paint marker and paint arrows or other symbols on the buttons themselves, just for an easier-to-see reference, especially for the little engineers. The transmitter is powered by button-type batteries but only draws power when the buttons are pressed, so the batteries should last for a reasonable amount of time. The receiver measures 31⁄4" x 2" x 1", and has inputs for battery power; outputs for the motor; a row of outputs for lights and sound functions; and reed-switch inputs for automation, bell, and whistle triggers (more on that later). The motor driver will handle 5 amps, easily sufficient for a large-scale locomotive. The system will operate on from 7 to 25 volts. I wasn’t sure what to expect with this. I’ve used simple pushbutton systems in years past and found them to be basic in their operation (hence my gravitation toward newer, more feature-filled systems). I was pleasantly surprised to find that many of the features I like with the more advanced control systems are available with this throttle as well. You can set start voltage and top speed, and adjust the level of momentum your locomotive has. Because you can link multiple receivers to

the same transmitter, you can run as many locomotives together in a consist as you like. (Unlike more complex systems, however, if you want to run multiple locomotives independently, you must use a different transmitter for each locomotive. But, because of the 2.4 gHz technology, you can run many transmitters at the same time without interference.) So, after reading what it could do, I was eager to give the unit a try. I installed the system in the tender of my Bachmann K-27, for no other reason than it was easy to remove the existing control system and replace it with this one. I’ve got an old Sierra sound board installed in that locomotive (out of production), which also allowed me to test how the system controls sounds. Installation was easy; the online instructions illustrate which wires need to go where. One neat thing is that there are separate taps for using LEDs for the headlights that do not require the use of dropping resistors in series. If there are already resistors installed with your LEDs or you’re using incandescent bulbs, you can connect those to another tap. All connections are made with screw terminals so it’s easy to hook everything up. The receiver must be linked to the transmitter, which is a simple matter of turning on the receiver, then pushing a button on it and a button on the transmitter. The link was made almost immediately. From that point, I was up and running. Right off the bat, I was impressed with the control. Pushing the “raise” button slowly increased the motor speed. Quick pushes of the button raised it just a bit, while holding it down raised it more quickly. I’m personally a fan of a little momentum dialed in to smooth things out, so I turned that on as well. Control was very responsive with regard to what I

Pros and cons Pros: Small transmitter size; easy installation; simple operation; low-battery warning Cons: Whistle trigger does not allow for “real time” playing of whistle; directional lighting the only means of visually telling which direction you’re set to travel

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PRODUCT REVIEWS CONTINUED wanted the locomotive to do. I could get the engine to crawl fairly slowly to couple up to the train, and stop and start easily and smoothly. The one thing I did miss was an indicator on the throttle that showed what direction the engine is going. If you’ve got directional headlights hooked up on your locomotive, you can use them as indicators, but I like my forward headlight on all the time so, unless I was looking at the back of the locomotive when switching, I was never certain it was in reverse. The reason this is an issue is that the locomotive will stop moving when the throttle voltage gets low enough but not necessarily be at zero volts. “Stop” and “change direction” are the same button; pressing it before the voltage gets to zero stops the motor, while pressing it when it is at zero changes the direction. I found myself pressing it, thinking the voltage was at zero when it really wasn’t, so my train didn’t change direction as I thought it would. I’d have to stop again, and change direction. One notable thing is that pressing the “stop” button while the train is moving will bring the motor to a stop fairly quickly, but not instantly, which will prevent damage to gears by sudden stops. Range was very good. I could control

Just charge it!

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erhaps one of my least favorite aspects of doing a battery-power installation is figuring out where to put the power switch and charging jack to run everything. It’s not that this is particularly difficult, just tedious. You’ve got the power switch, the charging jack, a

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the locomotive from any spot in my backyard and even around the side of the house, which is probably about 100' from where the train was at its furthest. The instructions claim ranges of twice that but that’s about as far away as I can get and still see and hear my train. The buttons to trigger the sounds work well, with one issue; the whistle does not allow for “real time” blowing of the whistle. All the sound triggers are quick, momentary pulses. This is fine for sound systems programmed to blow a particular whistle pattern (grade crossing, etc.) when the whistle trigger is pressed, but you cannot hold the whistle button down and have it blow for the duration you’re holding it down. (You can—at least with the Sierra board in my K-27—keep continually pressing the whistle button to make it blow longer. It just gets tiring.) G-Scale Graphics tells me they’re hoping to fix that in a future software upgrade. You can also use track magnets and reed switches to trigger these sounds. Another feature of the Railboss allows you to tell the receiver to “skip” magnets, so the whistle doesn’t blow every time it crosses over the magnet. Track magnets and reed switches can also be used to program in some

automation. With this, you can do automatic station stops, back-and-forth operations, even run multiple trains on the same loop of track. (The receivers “talk” to one another through some technical wizardry.) I did not mount reed switches on the test locomotive to test these features on my railroad, though I did simulate some of their operations on the workbench. (Also, with only one receiver provided, multiple-train operation could not be tested.) Programming these features is done via the transmitter and programming buttons, as well as switches on the receiver itself. All of this is spelled out in the instruction manual, which I found to be readily understandable, though you’ll want to pay particular attention to which button combinations on the transmitter you have to press to get to the various features you’re trying to program. Overall, I was pleasantly surprised by this system. It was simple to install, simple to operate, and it did much more than I expected it to do, given the simplicity of the interface. The lack of a real-time “playable” whistle is really the only operational weakness I found, and that’s only an issue if you’re controlling a sound system that allows you to play the whistle in real time. —Kevin Strong

fuse, and some kind of terminal from which all the power is fed to the various components. G-Scale Graphics’ Battery Conversion Module makes this task easier. Everything you need to get power where it needs to go is included on this small, easy-toinstall board. There’s a power switch, charging jack, screw terminals for the battery input, and two sets of power outputs for whatever you need to power, be it a throttle or sound system. There’s also an LED on the board to let you know the power is on. The board comes in two varieties; a floor-mounted version that’s ideal for onboard installations in locomotive tenders or diesel bodies (wherever it is convenient), and what they call a “door mounted” version, which is designed to be mounted inside the door of a boxcar or similar enclosure where you can easily

access it. This second version is ideal for power cars. Installation of these units is straightforward. On the “door mount” version, you simply attach the board to the floor of

Vital statistics Battery conversion module G-Scale Graphics 4118 Clayton Ct. Fort Collins CO 80525 Prices: Floor mount, $39; door mount, $29 Website: www.gscalegraphics.net Power-and-charging-interface circuit for battery R/C installations; two versions—one for mounting in a power car, one for mounting to the floor of a locomotive; power switch, charging jack, and 5-amp fuse included

New book for railway gardeners Book review Planting your Garden Railway by Becky Pinniger Atlantic Publishers 83 Parkanaur Avenue Southend-on-Sea, Essex SS1 3JA United Kingdom 8¾" x 11", 128 pages, hardbound Price: £22.50 Website: www.atlanticpublishers.com the car, inside the door opening of the boxcar, and hook the appropriate wires to the appropriate screw terminals to get power from the battery to the control electronics. G-Scale Graphics recommends screws for mounting the board, and provides small spacers to raise the board a fraction of an inch off the floor of the car. You could probably get away with using double-sided tape as well. The “floor mount” version is simply attached via the power switch. The switch is soldered to the PC board so, once the switch is mounted to the floor of the locomotive (tender, or wherever), the PC board is held in place. The charging jack must be mounted elsewhere, but comes with around 10" of wire attached, so you should be able to find a place nearby without too much issue. The PC board itself is around 11⁄2" square, so it doesn’t take up a lot of space—not much more than the space taken up by just the fuse holders I currently use, so it’s nice to have everything in such a neat package. It might not be able to fit in really tight quarters but, for many of the electronics installations I’ve done over the years, there’s usually ample room for a board like this. For those who haven’t learned to solder, having the screw terminals for all your power connections makes installations a lot less daunting. —Kevin Strong

Pros and cons Pros: Simple installation provides power, charging, and circuit protection, all in one small board Cons: None

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his book is for railway gardeners and garden railroaders. The first thing a gardener does, when opening a book on garden railroading, is to gaze at the photos and imagine the place, the plants, and the day. If the railroad is of primary interest, one inspects the trains to see what propels them, who manufactured them, and how accurately they are modeled. In Becky Pinniger’s new coffeetable-worthy book, Planting your Garden Railway, both the gardener and the railroader will find much to appreciate in its hard covered, 128 glossy pages. Before we divide this book into gardener vs. railroader topics, it’s plain to see that each photo shows a well-integrated world in which both facets of the hobby support each other. Long-time gardenrailway enthusiast, David Pinniger, took the photos of mature railway gardens to show us how it’s done in Great Britain. In the first chapter (which he wrote) he offers, “How to make a start—size and scale.” Here he helps beginners understand the difference between the “commonly used gauges and scales in garden railways.” For example, on page 14, after listing the many scales, he notes what more experienced modelers have been dealing with: “G” scale is a very confusing mixture of gauges and proportions when modeling 2'6" gauge to 3'6" gauge. His photos show the difference between appropriately and inappropriately scaled trains and how much easier it is to model larger-scale trains in a garden where leaves can grow too large. Because so many of the photos are

large, covering whole pages, the bigger pictures of the completely landscaped yard better displays the thoughtful placement of elements. On page 10, a long viaduct with horizontal stonework brilliantly reflects horizontal boards on the background fence, and then the train of multiple passenger cars underscores the simple theme without distraction. We see the close-up train, the surrounding scale plants, then the background shrubs or fences, which complement the railroad, and vice-versa. Obviously, the garden designers considered how to fit the railroad into their particular yard. Although almost all of the photos show gardens of Great Britain, the railway vignettes range from mountain to village– from busy industry to uncluttered countryside. Trains look natural in these gardens. Becky Pinniger tells us why. She explains the need for structure, which we can create using scale trees, and particularly conifers for year-round height and form. She outlines the growing requirements and advantages of growing dwarf Japanese maples and small specimen trees, mostly deciduous, to give spot color and showcase a scale feature. Critical for preventing the consumption of trains by hungry shrubs, several chapters show how judicious choice of groundcovers, alpines, low annuals, heathers, ferns, and bulbs will keep trains from being swallowed.

www.GardenRailways.com | December 2013 89

PRODUCT REVIEWS CONTINUED

Full-size drawings This issue, we are offering two sets of full-size drawings, both in 1:29 scale! An icing office is from the October 1956 issue of Model Railroader, and a brick and frame signal tower is from the January 1956 issue of Model Railroader. Both are available free to registered users of our website from October 26, 2013-January 7, 2014. After that time, the plans will be available to subscribers only. Click on “Full-size drawings” Topics include all aspects under “How to.” of the hobby. Interact with fellow members of the garden-railway community.

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Find a club

Streetcar video

Find a directory of gardenrailway societies at www. gardentrains.org. Those without Internet access may call our editorial ofce at 262-7968776 for assistance.

Subscribers: Watch a video of Hartland’s twotruck streetcar. Click on “Product videos” under “Product & hobby news.”

Large-scale holiday displays Dan Stenger

Do you find gardening challenging? If so, this book offers helpful tips for you. If you garden in dry shade, try crocus and hardy cyclamen. In moist shade, get some miniature hostas. If your garden is damp but sunny, certain plants, like creeping Jenny, will thrive. What about special considerations for seaside gardening? This book lists plants as well as cultivation tips. Great Britain shares growing zones comparable to coastal Oregon’s or southern Georgia’s USDA Hardiness Zones 8 and 9. Many plants will work in other zones, but unfortunately, we’ll have to look up that data. Fortunately, forums online make this easy. For basic gardening techniques, go to chapter 7 for a step-by-step guide to choosing, planting, maintaining and multiplying your stock of plants. Also check out the lists of plants in the rear of the book for shopping to fit a plant into a specific environment in your yard. Remember the seaside issue? There’s a list of 25 suitable plants in a chart. Need structure? Two long lists describe both conifers and broadleaf trees and shrubs to choose from. Each of the 14 charts describes preferred growing conditions to help ensure success. While Planting your Garden Railway says it’s not intended for experts, the garden railways depicted in this book have been grown and maintained by experts, some for decades. How lucky these gardeners are to live near Bekonscot, a scaled-down version of England, open to the public since 1929. It’s the epitome of railway gardening—manicured to perfection to show us how to choose, train, and appreciate miniature plants. And railroaders, if you wish that every photo would list details of the trains, look no more. Two full pages in the back of the book identify the builder of each steam locomotive, its given name, whether it’s gas- or meths-fired, and other details. From the country that started steam locomotion on rails and the country most known for its gardens, Planting your Garden Railway delights us visually and inspires us informatively. Also from the United Kingdom, long time Garden Railways columnist, Peter Jones, suggests on page 13, “Get on, make a start, and do it.” —Nancy Norris

For everyone: Download a free PDF of our annual list of holiday displays. Click on “Hobby news” under “Products & hobby news.”

www.GardenRailways.com | December 2013 91

PRODUCT REVIEWS CONTINUED

Detailed Garratt information Book review The Anatomy of the Darjeeling Garratt and the Engine it Tried to Replace: The D.H.R. Class “B” by Peter Manning Peter Manning Design and Drafting Coromandel Valley, South Australia 5051, Australia 72 pp; 11¾" x 8¼", wire bound Price: A$39.95 E-mail: [email protected]

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he Darjeeling Himalayan Railway (DHR) in India is well known for its distinctive “Class B” 0-4-0T locomotives. In 1910, however, it ordered a locomotive intended to replace the Class Bs—an 0-4-0+0-4-0 Beyer Garratt. In this book, Peter Manning chronicles the Garratt, both in text and in drawings. He recounts the history of the engine, which was only the second Beyer-Garratt built, and describes the line over which it was intended to work. Mr. Manning offers

a technical account of the locomotive, including original specifications, various failures while at work, and how they were remedied (or not). The material is well researched and documented and is presented in a readable and clearly understandable form. The locomotive was not a success and was transferred out of the mountain division to a flatter line, where it worked better. It was scrapped in 1954. The bulk of the book, however, is comprised of excellent drawings of virtually every part of the locomotive, along with attendant pertinent notes. The drawings are presented in “construction order,” offering a good idea of how the engine originally went together at the factory. Through the magic of computer-aided drafting (CAD) and computer 3D modeling, we are offered views of the engine and its components otherwise unattainable. The working-type drawings are presented as line art, while the 3D views are presented as full-color renderings. All of the drawings are, in a word, beautiful. Also addressed in both line and text

are modifications the engine went through during its life. The reasons necessary for the changes are discussed and the solutions depicted. At the end of the book, following the discussion of the Garratt, is a brief treatment of the Darjeeling Class B locomotive in two forms: the Sharp Stewart version of 1888 and the North British Locomotive Works version of 1913. These engines are briefly discussed and drawings are presented of both. For those who are fans of the DHR, Garratt locomotives, or two-foot-gauge railways, this book is a valuable resource. For model builders interested in Garratt engines, it is a treasure trove of information. The drawings alone are worth the price of admission. —Marc Horovitz

Meeting new people

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reiser has released two new figure sets. The first (#44907) contains three women in 1:22.5 scale. They are dressed in modern clothing and

Vital statistics 1:22.5-scale figures Preiser Postfach 1233 D-91534 Rothenburg Germany Check with your local dealer for price and availability Website: www.preiserfiguren.de Set (#44907) of three painted, plastic models of modern-day women in 1:22.5 scale; painted, plastic model of a religious statue (#45516)

92 Garden Railways | December 2013

include a blond, a redhead, and a brunette. The blond, in a purple dress, is reading a paper while carrying another under her arm; the redhead, in a gray suit with a pink blouse, is gesturing; while the brunette, who appears to be somewhat older, is wearing a knee-length dark-blue coat over an orange dress and is extracting something from her large handbag. All women are wearing their hair in buns. The ladies are all about the same height, around 3", or around 5'8" in 1:22.5 scale. They are highly detailed, well proportioned, and are painted in muted, flat colors that aid realism. They stand up well

on their own, on a flat surface, but fall over in the slightest breeze, so you might want to glue them in place or insert a pin up one leg that could be stuck into soft ground for stability. The other figure (#45516) is a statue of an anonymous saint, suitable for a park, church yard, or cemetery. She is garbed in flowing baroque robes and is perched atop

an orb complete with cherub heads and what appears to be a serpent with an apple in its mouth. (I was told this figure is most likely the Virgin Mary.) Again, this is a beautifully detailed figure. It is painted a uniform, nondescript gray-green and stands 33⁄8" tall, or 6'4" in 1:22.5 scale, making it a relatively small statue. All of these figures are of excellent quality and finish, and would enhance any appropriate scene. —Marc Horovitz

www.GardenRailways.com | December 2013 93

Directory of large-scale train retailers Say you saw their Directory ad in Garden Railways Spaces are sold on a year’s basis (six issues) at $177 per year (payable in advance) or at $36 per month (billed to established accounts for one year minimum). Ads will be set in standard listing typography. All insertions must be consecutive and may be invoiced if you have credit established with us. No mention of wholesale or mail order business permitted. Send your ads to: Garden Railways Directory, 21027 Crossroads Circle, PO Box 1612, Waukesha, WI 53187-1612. For additional information 1-888-558-1544 ext. 815. Closing Dates: Feb. 2014 closes Nov. 19, Apr. closes Jan. 16, June closes Mar. 20, Aug. closes May 14, Oct. closes July 17, Dec. closes Sept. 18.

ADVERTISER INDEX 30th Nat’l. Garden Railway Conv. ...... 62 31st Nat’l. Garden Railway Conv........ 29 Accucraft Company........................... 39 Alpine Railworks Worldwide LLC ....... 95 American Made Steel Bridges ........... 76 Art Knapp Plantland, Ltd.................... 19 Bachmann Industries, Inc. ............... 100 Back On Track................................... 96 Bigboyztrainz.com ............................ 95 Bill Burnette ...................................... 96 Brewer Railroad Plans....................... 96 Bridgemasters .................................. 62 Bridgewerks ............................... 19, 78 Cab Forwards by RMC ...................... 85 Caboose Hobbies .............................. 28 Cedarleaf Custom Decals .................. 96 Charles Ro Supply Co.................. 20, 21 Colorado Model Structures .................. 4 Cumberland Model Engineering ........ 80 Custom Model Products .................... 53 CVP Products .................................... 81 Dallee Electronics, Inc. ........................ 4 DCC-BitSwitch .................................. 96 Desert Bridges .................................. 95 Die Cast Direct.................................. 15

The Advertiser Index is provided as a service to Garden Railways magazine readers. The magazine is not responsible for omissions or for typographical errors in names or page numbers.

Eaglewings Iron Craft ............ 29, 60, 76 East Gary Car Co................................. 4 Fall Creek Railroad Structures ........... 28 Flexxbed Roadbed ............................ 95 G Scale Engineering .......................... 96 G Scale Graphics .............................. 96 G Scale Junction ............................... 79 Garden Railways Back Issues ........... 90 Garden Railways Binders .................. 80 Garden Railways Books .................... 94 Garden Railways magazine- Digital ... 90 Garden Texture ................................. 96 Gardenlines.net................................. 95 Gold Coast Station ............................ 74 Graham Industries ............................ 76 Great Midwest Train Show ................ 77 Great Train Expo................................ 77 Greenberg Shows ............................. 77 H & R Trains Inc. ............................... 15 Hartford Products.............................. 10 Hartland Locomotive Works............... 59 Hockley Valley Railroad ..................... 76 Innovative Train Technology .............. 96 Iron Horse Engraving......................... 95 JS Woodcraft .................................... 76

Kadee Quality Products Co. ............... 93 Keithco, Inc. ...................................... 60 Lantz’s Train Shop............................. 69 Larry G Scale .................................... 80 LGB .................................................. 68 LGB Train Shop ................................. 62 Light Rail Products ............................ 10 Llagas Creek Railways ...................... 19 Loco-Boose Hobbies ......................... 74 Locomotion Works ............................ 96 Lone Star Bridge ............................... 78 M & M Nursery ................................. 78 Mainline Bridges ................................. 9 Massoth Elektronik GmbH, Germany . 27 ME Taylor Engineering Inc. ................ 96 Micro Fasteners .................................. 9 Mini Forests By Sky .......................... 29 Model Decal Depot ........................... 96 MTH Electric Trains Inc........................ 4 Mylocosound .................................... 80 Narrow Gauge Paradise- LGB Tour .... 16 NRRR, Inc.......................................... 19 Ozark Miniatures ................................ 9 Pacific Coast Garden Railway ............ 95 Phoenix Sound Systems, Inc. ............ 24

Phoenix Unlimited, Ltd. ..................... 76 PIKO America .................................... 99 Precision Products .............................. 9 QSI Solutions .................................... 60 R & G Railroad Co. ............................ 78 R & S Enterprises .............................. 76 Ragtime Orleans ............................... 85 Railbed Systems ............................... 93 Rainbow Ridge.................................. 96 Ram Track ........................................ 80 Raymond, Gary ................................. 95 RCS America..................................... 78 RCS Of New England......................... 85 Reindeer Pass Railroad ..................... 73 RGSRR Hobbies .................................. 9 RLD Hobbies ..................................... 63 Charles Ro Supply Co.................. 20, 21 Room To Grow .................................. 29 Roundhouse Engineering .................. 69 RR Concepts ..................................... 95 Shady Glen Models ........................... 95 Shawmut Car Shops ......................... 95 Silver State Trains ............................. 96 Siskiyou Rare Plant Nursery .............. 95 SLM .................................................... 4

Smith Pond Junction ......................... 93 Something Different .......................... 95 Split Jaw Products ............................ 78 Steve’s Depot.................................... 74 Stoneworks ...................................... 95 Sunset Valley Railroad....................... 69 Train Collector’s Association .............. 62 Train World ....................................... 11 Train-li-USA ................................. 30,31 Trains & Trees ................................... 95 Trainz.com ........................................ 28 Triple R Services ............................... 96 Upland Trains ...................................... 9 USA Trains ...........................2, 3, 82, 83 Valley Train Station............................ 60 Vanco Log Dollhouses and Barns ...... 96 VES Enterprises ................................ 96 Walthers ........................................... 68 Windy Point Garden Railroads ........... 95 Wisconsin Illinois Trains ...................... 7 World’s Greatest Hobby on Tour ........ 77 Z-Stuff For Trains .............................. 28

www.GardenRailways.com | December 2013 97

IF I’D ONLY KNOWN….

Wood isn’t forever by Rod Eaton | Champlin, Minnesota | Photos by the author

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lot of my Hitchcock Railway is set in stone. Literally. Uncounted tons of mortar mountains support almost all of it. Where stone ends, bridges begin—more than two dozen of them. Almost all are built of wood. I love wooden bridges. They look great in my early western setting. But here’s something you should know about wood: it’s not forever, especially when the wood pieces are very thin, get wet, and never dry out. Of course, I built my bridges with some very thin pieces, then put them under trees where they’d get wet and never dry out. The bridges on my railway are made primarily of cedar, a soft but rot-resistant wood. For the most part, I built them using pretty-darn-near-scale pieces. A combination of misguided thinking and laziness led me to use way-under-scale parts for cross beams, sway braces, and guard timbers. That’s the misguided part. Laziness led me to the hobby shop for basswood instead of cutting these parts from cedar. Basswood isn’t especially strong and it lives to rot. If I’d only known. . . After 15 or so years, virtually all of the basswood pieces were destroyed—shrunken up, rotted away, or broken off. My bridges looked abandoned and forlorn.

Two old bridges, showing their age and approaching the end of their useful lives. Worse, since even the heartier cedar parts were showing signs of age, many of my bridges were perilously close to no longer bridging. In fact, just one day before a serious open house, I looked out to discover that a raccoon (most likely), using my track as his personal Habitrail, had almost completely brought down a short truss bridge.

It was time to act. After issuing a 10 mph slow order for the line, I purchased a carload of 6 x 12" cedar boards (1⁄4" x 1⁄2" in the real world) from Smith Pond Junction and went to work. Equipped with a razor saw, strong glue, small wire nails, and needle-nose pliers to drive them, I spent several hours in the garden repairing, replacing, and rebuilding. The new parts not only make my bridges look believable again, adding the detail we love to see in railroad structures, but they add strength and support as well. Some will last another year or so, others may make it a few years beyond that. That buys me time to rebuild from scratch in an orderly progression instead of a panicked frenzy.

Have you learned a painful lesson?

A repaired trestle. The new, lighter-colored parts have replaced the old, rotted-wood members. 98 Garden Railways | December 2013

Tell us about it in 300-500 words, with up to three photos. Send your confessions to “If I’d only known,” Garden Railways, PO Box 460222, Denver CO 80224, USA, or e-mail [email protected]