98002
C o n t e n t s : Przemysław Szymczyk
BMW R75
Master Box 1:35 Page 4
Łukasz Kapelski
Jagdpanther DML 1:35 Page 16
Rafał Bulanda
sU-122-54
scratchbuild 1:35 Page 36
Łukasz Orczyc-Musiałek
t-55
tamiya 1:35 Page 66
Super Model International 02 • First edition • LUBLIN 2012 • ISBN 978-83-62878-40-6 © All rights reserved. With the exception of quoting brief passages for the purposes of review, no part of this publication may be reproduced without prior written permission from the Publisher. Series editor: Maciej Góralczyk • Translation: Kazimierz Zygadło • Proofreading: Maciej Góralczyk • Design: Tomek Wajnkaim; KAGERO STUDIO Distribution: Kagero Publishing Sp. z o.o. • www.kagero.pl • e-mail:
[email protected],
[email protected] Editorial Office, Marketing: Oficyna Wydawnicza KAGERO, phone/fax (+48) 81 501 21 05, Akacjowa 100, Turka, 20-258 Lublin 62, Poland
BMW R75 | Master Box | 1:35
BMW R75 Przemysław Szymczyk
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MotoRCYCLe
The BMW R75 Master Box kit could be purchased in two versions – with or without the photo-etched sheet. Mine was without that addition, so from the very start I was afraid that the complete model might lack subtlety. It was mainly about the spoked rims, which if made of photo-etched elements, look much better. However, it turned out that the plastic rims look quite well and moreover, the original also quite often had quite thick spokes. The kit contains two sand-coloured sprues. Although the plastic is softer than in e.g. DML kits, it is irritatingly brittle, especially if you take into consideration the fact that the kit has many thin, long and delicate parts, which are easy to damage even when removing them from the sprues. Another flaws are rather poor reproduction of the cylinder’s head cooling fins and complete lack of tyres thread – it is possible that the producers know something about the racing version of this motorcycle with slick tyres… The lack of part numbering on the sprues is also annoying and forces one to look up the instruction all too often. The ejector pin marks have been cleverly confined to areas that are not visible on the finished model, but flash is a problem, especially on spoked Super Model International No.2
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rims. Its removal requires a sharp blade and a large amount of patience, since it is quite easy to damage the delicate parts. One may be under the impression that the kit has only disadvantages (and I have not even mentioned poor decals…), but in reality it is not as bad. I have no objections to the quality and level of details, the fit is also good. During construction process I decided to recreate the tyre thread. Using a Czech-made serrated razor saw I carved lines in the wheels. I laid the saw flat on a piece of one- and two millimetre styrene sheet and rotated the wheel laid flat on the table and pressed against it. Thus, I managed to carve even threads along the tyre. Later, using a sharpened mini-screwdriver, I notched crosswise threads on the entire circumference. The result is not ideal, but it is still better than what the producer had to offer. I also added some cables made of stretched sprue, replaced the seat spring with one made of wire and made some smaller elements on the rear mudguard. Finally, I made the front number plate – it was easier to make it myself that to “slim down” the one provided with the kit. The miniature was ready for painting.
FIGURes
To make the vehicle more attractive I decided to add two motorcyclists wearing interesting looking winter gear. Gas mask and scarf, which cover their faces, make them look like the “Star Wars” series characters. I received the German Motorcycle Crew (35030) figures set courtesy of the Mantis Miniatures, for which I am thankful to its owner. It is of exceptional quality, the sculpting and casting is flawless. The only thing that has to be done is a careful removal of the casting seams, as they are really tiny and easy to overlook, which may cause an unpleasant surprise during painting. The figures were designed for the Great Wall Hobby kit, therefore I was afraid if they would fit my miniature. It turned out to be feasible, but not without some effort. First of all, the connection between the motorcycle and the sidecar in the Master Box kit is not as wide as that in the GWH kit, thus the figures placed at their respected locations do not fit side by side. Removing some creases in their garment and sanding does the trick. The driver figure required a slightly different placement of the arms, which triggered some additional joints processing, filling in the gaps and creating details with modelling compound. I also cut part of the hand holding the handlebar and sculpted a new one which fit my model. The figures were finished with adding a few folds of the material on the back of the passenger, thus reducing the space between his back and the seat.
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PAInItInG tHe VeHICLe
As usual, I started with covering the whole kit with Citadel Chaos Black primer. Next was a layer of rust paint, because I wanted to show the rust appearing from underneath the final Panzergrau colour. A mixture of the Vallejo Model Color acrylics (Brown Sand, Burnt Cadium Red, Chocolate Brown and Panzer Grey) was airbrushed and then coated with Microscale Micro Satin varnish. The Vallejo paints layer is not especially resistant, so before applying the “hairspray technique” it is necessary to secure the acrylic layer with other medium, otherwise the paint would be rubbed off down to the primer. The protected surface was covered with two layers of hairspray and then I applied Vallejo Model Air German Grey, additionally shading it with the base colour mixed with white or black paint. I waited a moment and started removing the outer layer with a wet brush and a sharpened stick. It was easier to achieve the result of thin, sharp scratches with the latter. The resulting scrapes were coloured light grey. Next I painted the details like the engine, tyres and seats and then I began weathering the motorcycle. I almost forgot about the decals which were of really poor quality. Those I had chose first did not want to stick and soon disintegrated into pieces in water, while the next ones required a lot of additional painting corrections. The model was then given a wash of MIG Productions Dark Wash, while the damp patches were painted with Vallejo washes – umber and sienna. Later, I applied a mixture of MIG Productions Europe Dust and Concrete pigments with white spirit on the chassis. The pulp was applied with the help of the air stream from my airbrush. Live the motorcycle appeared nice, but on the closeup photos it still looked flat and dull. It was nagging me, so I decided to paint the vehicle as if it was a figure, shading it and recreating the play of light. With a brush dipped in MIG Pigment Fixer I removed most of the pigments and started making the corrections. All the areas exposed to sunlight (upper surfaces of the fuel tank, headlight, mudguards and even the individual spokes) were appropriately shaded and highlighted. Analogically, I darkened all the surfaces which wouldn’t be exposed to sunlight and strengthened any colour contrasts. The BMW logos were hand painted, because I did not want to risk working with the decals again. The hours spent on corrections paid off. The motorcycle looked much more impressive. Super Model International No.2
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FIRs t
AID
FIGURes PAIntInG Like in case of the vehicle, I started with the Chaos Black primer. To make painting easier, I placed the figures on sticks. I airbrushed the driver with the base colour, a mixture of Vallejo Chocolate Brown, Brown Sand and White. The figure was provisionally shaded – first, from the top, airbrushing the base colour with a drop of white… …and then from the bottom, with the same colour mixed with more Chocolate Brown. 8
Thus, I achieved a base for the brush work. Preliminary shading saves a lot of work – you can see the shadows layout right away. I started brush painting by applying first highlights with a mixture of Brown Sand, Basic Skintone and a lot of Talens retarder. The retarder simplifies getting a smooth colours transition by making acrylic paints behave like the artists’ oil ones. It also causes the paint to remain glossy until it dries, which makes judging the final result quite difficult. To expose the effect only the left side of the figure is highlighted in the photo. Next, I applied subsequent highlights, with the same mixture enriched with
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more Basic Skintone. This time the range of application was smaller than at the previous stage. The photo shows the left side of the figure after the procedure, while the right side is still at the previous stage. I had started with rather dark base, therefore I decided that gradual shading was not necessary. Next, I softened the contrasts and colours borders. I painted colour boundaries or even the entire sections of the figure with a really thin mixture of Brown Sand, Chocolate Brown and Basic Skintone with addition of the retarder. As a result the contrasts were smoothed, which can be seen in the photo on the left side of the figure.
BMW R75 | Master Box | 1:35
Delicate filter of Brown Sand slightly enlivened the coat’s colour. I painted the coat’s trims with Buff colour… …and then “trimmed” it with dark strokes. The gas mask was painted in Olive Green shades. Other details like the bread bag, map case and boots were painted and shaded with Vallejo Model Color paints. It is important to treat even the smallest part as a separate model and not to leave all the details in a single shade of a given colour. Any pieces of the gear,
clasps or belts look much better when shaded. Finished with an adequate attention they make the figure look more lively. The second crew member was painted in the same way, but with a different set of colours. The coat was covered with a mixture of Vallejo Model Air Russian Green, Tank Dark Yellow plus Olive Drab and then highlighted with the same mixture enhanced with Basic Skintone. The blanket was painted with the shades of grey, using a different shading technique – instead of smooth shading, I applied tiny dots with a gradually lighter shades. It resulted in an composite fabric texture effect.
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tHe BAse
I wanted to exhibit the miniature in an impressive way, so I decided to build a small base. I made a box using a three-millimetre balsa plate and trimmed its edges to the desired shape. Then I filled it with fitting foam. When it dried, I trimmed the excess and started working on the ground. I applied a layer of plaster, which was immediately covered with soil that I quietly walked off from a flower pot standing on the window sill. Before the plaster set, I made ruts using a wheel from an old kit. When everything was dry, I secured it with Uni-Grunt priming emulsion. The shrub was made of thin copper wire. Several dozen, few-centimetres-long lengths were twisted together forming separate “branches”. Finished one was placed on the base and covered with MIG Acrylic Resin to hide its “wire” origin. I applied short electrostatic grass in some places using thinned white glue (Wikol) and then airbrushed the base with the shades of brown. I thought that fallen leaves would brighten up the scene, but since I did not have the laser cut ones, I went outside and picked up a few dry leaves in different shades lying in front of my house. First, they were additionally dried in the oven and then crumbled into small pieces. Thus created foliage was glued to the base and the shrub. Creating snow was the next challenge. Initially, I planned to buy Vallejo Foam & Snow paste, but the economy pushed me towards baking soda which was at hand. With a brush, I applied the MIG Productions Acrylic Resin on the base and then sprinkled it with soda. The result was quite convincing. Fine snow was achieved by smearing the base with thinned white glue (Wikol) and sprinkling it with soda. The chassis of the motorcycle was “snow-covered” in the same way, but here I used light grey pigment to soften the contrasts. Finally, I glued the vehicle to the base with UHU two-component adhesive and masked the joint with snow.
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FIsH CHI , Ps,
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&to
oLs
KIts AnD AFteRMARKet ACCessoRIes: • •
German Motorcycle, WWII – Master Box 3528 German Motorcycle Crew – – Mantis Miniatures 35030
seLeCteD tooLs AnD MAteRIALs: • • • • • • • • •
Styrene sheets (0,25 to 2mm thick) Magic Sculp and Greenstuff modelling compounds UHU cyanoacrylate gel glue White glue (Wikol) NOCH grass Plaster, plant soil, leaves Baking soda Uni-Grunt priming emulsion MIG Acrylic Resin
PAInts AnD WeAtHeRInG PRoDUCts: • • • • • • • •
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Citadel Chaos Black primer Vallejo acrylic paints MIG Dark Wash MIG Thinner for washes MIG Pigments MIG Pigment fixer Microscale Decal Solvents: Set & Sol Microscale Micro Satin varnish
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NEW
PHOTOSNIPER
Jagdpanther | DML | 1:35
Łukasz Kapelski
JAGDPAntHeR the Jagdpanther tank destroyer is one of my favourite German armoured fighting vehicles of World War II. Low and compact silhouette makes you think of modern designs. The excellent 88mm gun turned that vehicle into an almost invincible opponent on the battlefield, especially at long range, for which the tank destroyer was designed. Only several hundred were built, however, they were not able to turn the tide. 16
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tHe KIt Is A PLeAsURe to BUILD – tHose WHo HAD A CHAnCe to WoRK WItH AnY oF DML’s LAtest ReLeAses KnoW WHAt I AM tALKInG ABoUt. tHe BoDY oF tHe JAGDPAntHeR ItseLF WAs qUIte sIMPLe, so tHe Most tIMeConsUMInG tAsK WAs AsseMBLInG tHe sUsPensIon.
T
here are a couple of 1:35 scale kits that we can choose from, starting from an ancient Italeri, through an excellent Tamiya, to a couple of DML kits. I chose the Chinese product. Ever since the DML had begun issuing models with imitation of the zimmerit coating texture, I knew that the release of the Jagdpanther kit with this feature was just a question of time. Finally, the kit No. 6494 saw the light of the day. As soon as I found one at a bargain price, I did not hesitate one second to purchase it and I had to admit, that I was not disappointed. The box contained grey plastic sprues with exceptionally detailed parts. The zimmerit has a subtle texture and I like it a lot. The kit is supplemented with a single sheet of decals, a small set of photo-etched grilles, DS rubber tracks and steel towing cables. There is also a transparent plastic sprue with the periscopes. The kit is a pleasure to build – those who had a chance to work with any of DML’s latest releases know what I am talking about. The body of the Jagdpanther itself was quite simple, so the most time-consuming task was assembling the suspension. The fit is good, there is also no flash, sink marks or ejector pin marks in visible areas. Only the joint between the front of the body and lower hull required some putty to fill in the zimmerit texture. Moreover, I replaced the plastic equipment clasps and lines with a bit complicated to assemble Aber photo-etched elements and Karaya copper lines respectively. I also imitated weld lines at the base of the periscope guards with Wamod two-component putty,
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tHe IMItAtIon oF tHe zIMMeRIt textURe Is FIne AnD CRIsP, BUt not oVeR-sCALeD.
forming it with a sharp modelling spoon tool. The entire building process took only a few pleasant evenings. Before painting, I protected all transparent parts with Humbrol Maskol. I will paint them later with some clear paint. I sprayed the entire model, including wheels and tracks, straight from the can with the Citadel’s excellent Chaos Black primer. It gives a nice, satin layer and spills well; it has never run or clogged up any intake grilles. Then I used the appropriate Tamiya and Mr. Hobby paints. Products of these Japanese manufacturers thinned with Mr. Levelling Thinner are a perfect mixture which does not clog the airbrush. The brown base colour for further paintwork was Tamiya XF-52. It was followed by XF-60 Dark Yellow, mixed almost one to one with white. I tried to apply it more generously to the areas that were supposed to be lighter, leaving those that were to be darker with the brown undercoat showing through. The next step was highlighting the upper hull, sides and the back plate. Again, I tried to highlight the top surfaces the most. Once
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more I used the XF-60 mixed with white, but at that time the proportions were reversed in favour of the latter paint. The mixture was supplemented with XF-57 Buff. That was done to achieve the light and shade effect. Naturally, I did it with moderation, since what I wanted was a really subtle colour modulation. It was time to apply the camouflage. I went for the green and brown stripes, that can often be seen on the archive photos of the Jagdpanther. I tried to make them rather thin and delicate, while at the same time, also slightly transparent. The paints used were Tamiya XF-64 Red Brown and Mr. Hobby H405 Olive Green. The wheels were painted with a mixture of XF-60 with white in one to one ratio. The preliminary painted model was then varnished with Mr. Hobby Clear Gloss to prepare its surfaces for decals. These were applied with help of Czech Agama liquids. When the decals dried, I could start to work with the artists’ oil paint. I use those made by Renesans. Here I used two shades of both yellow and brown,
I UseD tHe APPRoPRIAte tAMIYA AnD MR. HoBBY PAInts. PRoDUCts oF tHese JAPAnese MAnUFACtUReRs tHInneD WItH MR. LeVeLLInG tHInneR ARe A PeRFeCt MIxtURe WHICH Does not CLoG tHe AIRBRUsH.
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plus sometimes also white. Initially, I wanted to do the fading, but it was almost impossible to do on a porous zimmerit. I had to use more thinner (Zippo lighter fluid and MIG Thinner for Washes) to make the paint spill on the kit as it tended to stay in the zimmerit grooves. On vertical surfaces I tried to recreate vertical fades and stains, while on the horizontal ones, I rubbed the paint with circular movement. At that stage I was also sticking to the rule of applying lighter shades of paint to the upper surfaces and darker ones to the bottom areas and in recesses. When everything dried well it was time for oil wash. This time I mixed dark brown with black, thinning it with Zippo lighter fluid. Thus composed mixture was applied to all recesses and slits. I also applied it to the zimmerit in some places, but in small amount, as I did not want the model to look dirty. Then I began painting the tools with Vallejo acrylics, which are very good for this purpose. For the wooden elements I used the light yellow and two shades of brown, trying to imitate tree rings. Spare track links, exhausts and the shovel were
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FIRs t
AID
LIGHt AnD sHADe eFFeCt To get a really subtle colour modulation I used mixed Tamiya paints. The brown base colour for further paintwork was Tamiya XF-52. It was followed by XF-60 Dark Yellow, mixed almost one to one with white. I tried to apply it more generously to the areas that were supposed to be lighter, leaving those that were to be darker with the brown undercoat showing through. The next step was highlighting the upper hull, sides and the back plate. Again, I tried to highlight the top surfaces the most. Once more I used the XF-60 mixed with white, but at that time the proportions were reversed in favour of the latter paint. The mixture was supplemented with XF-57 Buff.
xF-52
55% xF-60 45% xF-2
45% xF-60 50% xF-2 5% xF-57
BAse CoLoUR CoLoURs tAMIYA xF-60 DARK YeLLoW
MR.HoBBY H405 oLIVe GReen
tAMIYA xF-64 ReD BRoWn
painted with various rusty shades of Panzer Aces paints. It was time for all the paint chips and wear and tear signs that appear while the vehicle is being used. The chipping was mainly made with the help of a sponge and also with fine brushes. I kept the sponge half dry and I gently applied the paint in appropriate areas. Brushes were used for delicate scratches and in places where the sponge could not be used, as well as for applying darker paint on lighter worn out areas. I used Vallejo paints for that task. Lighter scratches and wear marks were imitated with Buff paint from Model Color range, while the steel showing up from underneath the paint was painted with Panzer Aces Dark Rust. I applied it mainly on all protruding edges and handles. Then, I started applying the mud, dirt and dust. I mainly used MIG pigments fixed with lighter fluid and AK-interactive weathering products. Pigments were applied to the lower hull tub and to vertical surfaces of the hull. I wanted to achieve the effect of a dusted surface with damp discolouration. Lighter pigments were applied to the lower hull tub as a base and darker ones to imitate the wet spots. To rec-
I Went FoR tHe GReen AnD BRoWn stRIPes, tHAt CAn oFten Be seen on tHe ARCHIVe PHotos oF tHe JAGDPAntHeR. I tRIeD to MAKe tHeM RAtHeR tHIn AnD DeLICAte, WHILe At tHe sAMe tIMe, ALso sLIGHtLY tRAnsPARent. tHe PAInts UseD WeRe tAMIYA xF-64 ReD BRoWn AnD MR. HoBBY H405 oLIVe GReen.
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reate the dampness I also used MIG Wet Effects and Damp Earth Mixture. It is a colourless, rather thick gloss varnish mixture, which was thinned a bit with lighter fluid with small addition of dark pigment and then applied to the model. That way I tried to get vertical damp spills. The upper parts of the vehicle and the rear plate were dusted with light pigments. Small amounts were applied with a brush and generously washed with lighter fluid. It was possible to see the results almost immediately, since the fluid evaporated in an instant. If there is too much pigment, it should be washed with lighter fluid and if the effect is not satisfactory, more pigment should be added. I wanted subtle dusting, therefore I tried not to exaggerate with the amount of pigment. A mixture of AK-interactive Fresh Mud and lighter fluid was applied to all recesses to create damp stains on dusty surface. The tools, spare track links and cables were also weathered. I followed the same steps weathering the back plate. I made splashes in places with wet brush and the air stream from an airbrush. Both the lighter and darker colours were used to break the monotony of the weathered surface. The wheels were treated in a similar fashion,
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I WAnteD to Do tHe FADInG, BUt It WAs ALMost IMPossIBLe to Do on A PoRoUs zIMMeRIt. I HAD to Use MoRe tHInneR (zIPPo LIGHteR FLUID AnD MIG tHInneR FoR WAsHes) to MAKe tHe PAInt sPILL on tHe KIt As It tenDeD to stAY In tHe zIMMeRIt GRooVes. on VeRtICAL sURFACes I tRIeD to ReCReAte VeRtICAL FADes AnD stAIns, WHILe on tHe HoRIzontAL ones, I RUBBeD tHe PAInt WItH CIRCULAR MoVeMent.
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but their rubber bandages were first painted black and all the surfaces touching each other or the tracks were dry-brushed with Tamiya XF-11 Silver. The tracks were the next step. Similarly to the rest of the vehicle they were primed with Citadel Chaos Black. Their base colour was Vallejo Panzer Aces Track Primer. When the paint dried, I dusted it slightly with MIG pigments well thinned with lighter fluid. Then I mixed AK-interactive Earth Effects with a pinch of plaster and applied it to the tracks, trying not to overdo. I wanted to imitate remains of soil sticking to the links and not coat them entirely with mud. When it all dried a bit, I removed the excess by hitting it with a stiff brush and I gave the mixture the right texture. Later, I applied some darker AK-interactive Streaking Grime in all the recesses. Finally, I dry-brushed the edges of the tracks with Tamiya XF-11 and also wiped them in places with a 4B soft pencil. Mounting them on the wheels was a mere formality. The only thing left was to remove Maskol from transparent elements and painting them with Tamiya X-23
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Clear Blue. I also wiped the inside rim of the open hatch with a soft pencil and did the same with cables and handles. The wash at some places needed correction, so I did a pin wash there. The Jagdpanther was almost ready, but I decided to put it in some context. I made the base from a piece of cut styrodur foam, which was taped with balsa. Plaster was applied at the top, sprinkled with dark soil and fine gravel and immediately covered with UniGrunt priming emulsion. Next day, the base was strong and hard. I carved a section of stone wall from a piece of plaster, glued it to the base and sprinkled some fine crushed granite around it, which I fixed with thinned white glue (Wikol). The wall was painted with Vallejo paints, trying to make the colours look natural. Then I started to work with vegetation. I used Heki grass mat, which can be torn into appropriate pieces. It was applied with white glue (Wikol). Longer blades of grass were pieces of an old brush painted green. Smaller blades were again glued with white glue (Wikol). I also added a few brushes made by Polak company and some tufts of dried natural herbs. The latter had to be partially tinted, to retain some natural colour. The only task left was to place the figure, which was painted in the meanwhile, and fix the vehicle to the base. I added some more soil near the tracks to merge the vehicle with the base. In the end, I painted the balsa “frame” with hazel shade wood stain lacquer.
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tHe CHIPPInG WAs MAInLY MADe WItH tHe HeLP oF A sPonGe AnD ALso WItH FIne BRUsHes. I KePt tHe sPonGe HALF DRY AnD I GentLY APPLIeD tHe PAInt In APPRoPRIAte AReAs. BRUsHes WeRe UseD FoR DeLICAte sCRAtCHes AnD In PLACes WHeRe tHe sPonGe CoULD not Be UseD, As WeLL As FoR APPLYInG DARKeR PAInt on LIGHteR WoRn oUt AReAs.
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I WAnteD to IMItAte ReMAIns oF soIL stICKInG to tHe LInKs AnD not CoAt tHeM entIReLY WItH MUD, so WHen It ALL DRIeD A BIt, I ReMoVeD tHe exCess BY HIttInG It WItH A stIFF BRUsH AnD I GAVe tHe MIxtURe tHe RIGHt textURe.
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I MADe tHe BAse FRoM A PIeCe oF CUt stYRoDUR FoAM, WHICH WAs tAPeD WItH BALsA. PLAsteR WAs APPLIeD At tHe toP, sPRInKLeD WItH DARK soIL AnD FIne GRAVeL AnD IMMeDIAteLY CoVeReD WItH UnIGRUnt PRIMInG eMULsIon.
I UseD HeKI GRAss MAt, WHICH CAn Be toRn Into APPRoPRIAte PIeCes. It WAs APPLIeD WItH WHIte GLUe (WIKoL).
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FIsH CHI , Ps,
&to
oLs
KIts AnD AFteRMARKet ACCessoRIes: • • •
German Jagdpanther Early production with Zimmerit – Dragon 6494 Tow Cable – Karaya TCM 03 German clasps & clamps (2 choice) – Aber 35A93
seLeCteD tooL AnD MAteRIALs: • • • •
sponge 4B pencil styrodur balsa
• • • • • • •
plaster soil and fine gravel Uni-Grunt priming emulsion fine crushed granite white glue (Wikol) Heki grass mat Polak brushes
PAInts AnD WeAtHeRInG PRoDUCts: • • • • • • • • • •
Humbrol Maskol Citadel Chaos Black primer Tamiya, Mr.Hobby Hobby Color series, Vallejo Model Color and Panzer Aces series paints Mr.Hobby Clear Agama decal fluids Renesans artists’ oil paints Zippo lighter fluid MIG Thinner for Washes MIG Pigments MIG & AK-interactive weathering products
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Read more about German tank destroyers
www.kagero.pl
SU-122-54 | Scratchbuild | 1:35
Rafał Bulanda
sU-122-54 WHILe LooKInG FoR ReFeRenCe MAteRIALs FoR tHe sU-101 seLF-PRoPeLLeD GUn, I CAMe ACRoss A PHoto oF An ARMoUReD FIGHtInG VeHICLe tHen UnKnoWn to Me, Yet VeRY IntRIGUInG. tHe VeHICLe WAs ОБЪЕКТ 600 oR sU-122-54. tHese nAMes stAnD FoR A 122MM seLF-PRoPeLLeD GUn BUILt on tHe CHAssIs oF t-54 tAnK. It WAs qUIte UnIqUe FoR RUssIAn ConDItIons, As tHeRe WeRe onLY 80 BUILt BetWeen 1955-1957. I WAs FAsCInAteD to sUCH An extent tHAt I DeCIDeD to BUILD Its MoDeL.
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To
make my work easier, I used T-55A kit released by the Ukrainian manufacturer Skif. I only needed its lower hull tub and suspension system. I also purchased some aftermarket accessories, including turned barrel for JS-2 tank, a couple of 14.5mm heavy machine gun barrels, towing cables, grilles, outline markers and a metal antenna. I decided to invest some money in Trumpeter’s track links (#06622), because those from the Skif kit were different from the ones used on SU-122-54. Of course, I also acquired Evergreen plastic sheets and shapes of various thickness. I only managed to get few, not very accurate sketches and a modest photographic reference of a couple of existing museum exhibits, therefore my model has a combination of features of various vehicles shown in the photographs. enGIne CoMPARtMent PLAte I started with removal of the fenders and making new ones from a 0.5mm Evergreen sheet. The Skif’s kit engine compartment plate was nowhere near the real thing, so first I removed the sides and then the plate in order to build that section from 1mm thick polystyrene sheets. The lids, hatches and the engine intake shutters were made of 0.25mm plastic sheet. The meshes turned out to be a bit more complicated. I started with a frame made of 1.5mm angle bars in which a photo-etched mesh of an appropriate size was installed. The meshes were slightly bigger for the scale, because I wanted the elements like e.g. engine in-
take shutters to show through. The netting was strengthened on the inside by a few small pieces of wire, which were eventually replaced by plastic strips cut from a 0.25mm sheet. In the end I made all the hinges, handles and bolts. sUPeRstRUCtURe Due to the really poor reference materials, the shape and dimensions of the superstructure plates were estimated using my Mk I eyeball. The structure was built entirely of 1.5mm plastic sheets and then generously covered with cyanoacrylate glue on the inside for additional strength. The cast texture was achieved by softening the surface with Tamiya Extra Thin glue and “beating” it with an old toothbrush. Next, I made the superstructure details: cupolas, hatches and periscopes. I started with a hatch with KPVT heavy machine gun mount. All the circular elements were cut with Olfa Compass Cutter. The multi-layer construction was covered with details. The counterweight attached at the back of the mount was glued with CA glue from a few pieces of polystyrene and sanded into a small cubical shape. The commanders hatch required some more work. I glued a small, thick circle in the centre of the circular base and four blocks around it, which were cut slightly at an angle and located between the periscopes. They were later filed into oval shape. The hatch itself was made of 1mm thick circle profiled to the appropriate shape. Then the periscope hoods made of 0.25mm sheets, glass imitation, hinges, etc. were added.
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Building the rangefinder guard turned out to be a really laborious task. That rather inconspicuous structure had to be made with a couple of various thickness sheets glued together. Then I had to drill the bolt sockets. The rim along with the bolts was glued both at the back and at the front. Next, the rangefinder openings were drilled and some more details added. To imitate the cast texture the surface was softened with Tamiya Extra Thin glue and “beaten” with a toothbrush. When the glue was dry, the rangefinder was sanded. Making the remaining hatches was a formality. Longitudinal strengthener located between the hatches in the central section of the superstructure was made of two sheets of various thickness glued together. The bottom sheet was slightly larger, so I could later press the weld texture. tHe KPVt MoUnt AnD Its AttACHMent The KPVT heavy anti-aircraft machine gun mount and its attachment were entirely scratchbuilt. I based my reconstruction only on the photos of the preserved museum examples of the SU-122-54, so I had to simplify them a bit. The barrel was from RB Model, while its runner’s guard, lock chamber, receiver cover and handle attached to the barrel, as well as other smaller details were made from pieces of sprue and polystyrene sheets and shapes. The rivets and smaller screw heads were made with a needle. FUeL tAnKs, stoWAGe Boxes AnD sMoKe FLARes The shape and dimensions of the fuel tanks were estimated from the photos, taking into consideration their proportions to other elements of the vehicle. Each tank was made from 1mm thick sheets, which were glued with CA and sanded. Then, I cut the shape of the front and rear wall of the tank from 0.25mm thick sheet. With Olfa straight line cutter I made the X-shaped grooves and then punched a 5mm circle in the middle. The top surfaces of the tanks were made in a similar way. The whole was covered with Tamiya Extra Thin and after curing, sanded. Finally, the fuel filler caps were added. It was time for smoke flares located in the rear of the vehicle. Building those relatively small details turned out to be an extremely laborious task, as only the third attempt was satisfactory. The imitation of overpressed ribs on the sides was made by glueing consecutive layers of polystyrene together. All the strips were cut from Evergreen shapes, while the circles on the sides were punched. To complete these elements, I added triangular side handles made of wire and slightly thicker plastic rod. The main structures of the side stowage boxes were made of 1mm thick sheets. I glued various polystyrene shapes on these small boxes. These components required some sanding to soften the edges and 38
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stoWAGe Boxes AnD FUeL tAnK MoUnteD on tHe MUDGUARDs.
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tHe KPVt HeAVY AntIAIRCRAFt MACHIne GUn, Its MoUnt AnD AttACHMent WeRe ALMost entIReLY sCRAtCHBUILt. onLY tHe BARReL CAMe FRoM RB MoDeL set. better imitate the overpressed metal. For that task I used the nail polish block. I finished the stowage boxes by adding clamps, hinges and side handles made of wire and 0.25mm plastic rod. GUn MAntLe AnD CoLLAR Making the gun mantle was quite difficult, because at first, I did not estimate its size right, so during the second attempt, I temporarily glued the front section of the mantle to its base on the collar. Next, I worked the oval shape of the gun mantle a bit, making it look more like the real thing. Then, I glued 0.25mm sheets to the outer part of the mantle’s shield. When I got the shape more or less right, I started glueing on 1mm sheets, trying to fit them appropriately. Then, I covered it with CA glue to strengthen the entire part and smooth away any holes or irregularities. When it dried, I sanded the mantle to give it the appropriate, oval shape. Finally, I drilled all the necessary holes and added bolts, drip rails and welds. The collar, after initial fitting, was cut from a 0.5mm sheet. Then I cut another one from a 0.25mm sheet and drilled the bolts openings in it. Both parts were glued together, and thus I got the imitation of bolt sockets. Other parts of that distinctive element were made of 2mm sheets. Naturally, the completed part had to be sanded with a polish block to make it look like a metal cast. Super Model International No.2
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tHe GUn MAntLe WItH RB MoDeL BARReL. tHe BARReL WAs sUPPLeMenteD WItH tHe BoRe eVACUAtoR MADe oF A WIDe stRIP CUt FRoM A tHIn sHeet.
HULL tUB When I consulted the reference material, it turned out that the second and third axle of the suspension system had to be moved forward by about 5mm. Photos show the axles in that position, as they were probably relocated to move the vehicle’s centre of gravity. Therefore, I cut the part of the hull tub’s bottom plate with the aforementioned axles. I damaged them in the process, so I had to build these details from scratch. The bottom plate of the hull tub was strengthened with 1.5mm plastic sheet, while the control arm mountings were cut from two 2mm sheets glued together. Their round bases were punched. The bolts were added at the end. DetAILs I quickly managed to put together the headlights. I started with their guards. I cut two strips from 0.25mm polystyrene sheet, rolled them and glued, adding semicircular bottoms at the back. After sanding, I added their clamping rings made of polystyrene strips and some smaller details, as well as the base to which the headlight was mounted. The lamps were adapted from Skif ’s kit. I thinned their inner edges and glued the imitations of light bulbs in the middles. The inside of each headlight was painted with Mr. Hobby Aluminium and closed with lamp lense, punched from a transparent sheet and corrugated with a scalpel. The entire elements were sanded to get the appropriate, oval shape of the lamp lenses. Then they were polished with Tamiya Polishing Compound. Headlights bases were made of 0.5mm sheet and glued to the armour. The headlights themselves were mounted on 0.5mm rods. I also added the bolts. 40
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tHe MesHes ARe sLIGHtLY BIGGeR FoR tHe sCALe, BeCAUse I WAnteD tHe eLeMents LIKe e.G. enGIne IntAKe sHUtteRs to sHoW tHRoUGH. note ALso tHe sMoKe FLARes MoUnts.
Next, I added the bore evacuator to the gun barrel, made of a wide strip cut from a thin sheet. Smaller mounting rings were added at the front and at the back and the whole part was sanded. Periscopes were cut from 0.5mm transparent sheet. Their rims were made from tiny strips of polystyrene and their hoods from 0.25mm sheet. The hinge was made from a plastic rod and its cover was made from a thin strip. Then I glued them to the armour. Smaller screws were pressed with a needle. I also made the remaining welds. Their positions had been softened with Tamiya Extra Thin and then pressed with a scalpel that had its tip broken off. Corrections were made with a small drill bit. Fender curves involved a lot of trouble. The rear ones were the corrected parts from the Skif kit, the front ones had to be scratchbuild. I cut them from 0.5mm sheet and bent into an arc. Then, I glued the sides and added thin strips at the top to imitate the overpressed metal. After that, the parts were sanded. All the imitations of overpessed metal were gently soaked with Tamiya Extra Thin glue applied with a brush, which gave them additional roundness. Tiny fender limiters, that prevent the fenders from falling, when in raised position, were also made. The fenders were enhanced with hinges made of 0.5mm plastic rod and wire spring, as well as triangular braces
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that connect them to the hull and armour. These braces were cut from 0.25mm sheet and reamed. The shapes of the openings were corrected with a scalpel. The braces at the rear had additional bolts glued on. I also made fuel tank and stowage boxes mounts. These tiny cubes were cut from 0.25mm sheet and had bolts glued on. Finally, I made the fender’s rim from polystyrene strips. It was time to tackle the towing hooks. The rear ones were Skif’s kit parts and could be used after some correctiones, but those at the front had a completely wrong shape
and had to be replaced. I made new ones from 0.75mm sheet using a scalpel and a polish block. All the hooks were glued to rectangular bases at the armour, then the welds around them were recreated. There are stops above the hooks, that prevent the cable from slipping out. They were made from thin polystyrene strip and 1-0.5mm plastic rods. A piece of sprue and polystyrene shapes of various thickness were used to made the tow line holder and the antenna mount, located on the right side, just above the stowage box. Round shapes were also used to imitate the wiring insulation in the front section of the armour, on fenders and in the rear, close to the clearance lights. The said lights were adapted from the Skif’s kit, but I had to scratchbuild their mounts and bases. 42
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PRe-AsseMBLeD VeHICLe WItHoUt tHe GUn MAntLe AnD CHAssIs. tHe sMoKe FLARes ARe ALReADY In PLACe on tHe LoWeR PHoto.
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I also scratchbuilt the shovel and the saw. I carved the shaft and handle with a scalpel from a thick, round shape. The shovel bucket was shaped from a piece of 0.25mm sheet. The clamps fixing the bucket to the shaft were made from thin polystyrene strip. The saw was fashioned from a 0.25mm strip, with an oval shape at the bottom and teeth cut with a scalpel. Handles made from round styrene shape, had their tips appropriately sanded to make them round. They were connected with the saw by small pieces of polystyrene sheet, while the rivets were pressed with a needle. Apart from that, I added spare track links, which were mounted on the right side of the superstructure and on the front armour plate. Their attachments were cut from sections of plastic rod and stops with imitations of bolts were made from plastic sheet. On the back plate of the superstructure, I attached handles made of wire and plastic shapes, as well as other fine details. Towing cables shackles came from Skif’s T-55A kit, and the cables themselves were manufactured by RB Model. RB Model outline markers were made to look like the real thing by adding the springs made from thin wire at the base and pieces of sleeve glued at the top. The final stage was the correction of wheels. First, I gently sanded the slightly too thick idlers. The drive wheels, on the other hand, had to be thinned from the inside by almost
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2mm, because the tracks used in SU-122-54 were slightly different from those used in T-55A. Since I wanted to use openwork road wheels used in T-34 and earlier models of ОБЪЕКТ 600, I had to correct the diameter of those from the Skif kit. I glued the strips of plastic on the outside and then sanded them gently. I also corrected the bolts on the hub caps. The completed wheels were mounted on the suspension arms and then I glued on the Trumpeter’s track links. When they were ready and got appropriate slack, Tamiya Extra Thin was generously applied. When it cured, I removed the tracks to prepare them for painting. PAIntInG I started with priming the model with Mr. Surfacer 1000. Then the base colours were applied – wheel tyres were coated with black and the entire vehicle was coated with Tamiya Olive Drab. Next, I airbrushed the highlights with various Mr. Hobby greens, starting with H422, through H312, until extra thinned mixture of H312 with white. I added some spot highlighting with thin mixture of Vallejo Panzer Aces German Uniform 1 and Silver Grey. Then I applied a delicate Tamiya XF-51 Khaki Drab filter.
tHe ALMost entIReLY sCRAtCHBUILD VeHICLe LooKeD so IMPRessIVe, tHAt I FeAReD PAIntInG It. 44
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CoLoUR MoDULAtIon tHe BAse CoAt oF tAMIYA oLIVe DRAB WAs HIGHLIGHteD BY AIRBRUsHInG VARIoUs MR. HoBBY GReens, stARtInG WItH H422, tHRoUGH H312, UntIL HIGHLY DILUteD MIxtURe oF H312 WItH WHIte. tHen I ADDeD soMe sPot HIGHLIGHts on tHe eDGes AnD DetAILs WItH tHIn MIxtURe oF VALLeJo PAnzeR ACes GeRMAn UnIFoRM 1 AnD VALLeJo sILVeR GReY, APPLIeD WItH A BRUsH. next, I APPLIeD A DeLICAte FILteR oF HIGHLY DILUteD tAMIYA xF-51 KHAKI DRAB to DeCReAse tHe CoLoUR ContRAst.
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The miniature was varnished with glossy clear and van Dyke bronze oil wash was applied. The effect was secured with satin clear, mixed from Mr. Hobby’s matt and gloss, which fundamentally changed the shade of the vehicle. In the next step, I made scratches and paint chips, but their number was a bit exaggerated. At least, that was how I saw it, so I muted them with a few layers of Mr. Hobby H422 Light Green mist. Then I applied the rain marks composed of a few shades of oil paints: yellow, van Dyke bronze and white. When they dried, I airbrushed a layer of satin and started applying pigments, starting from the lightest (MIG P234 Rubbel Dust) to the darkest (Kremer Raw Umber). All were fixed with MIG Pigment Fixer. Tracks were painted with a mixture of Vallejo German Grey, Red Brown and Gun Metal acrylics in 2:2:1 ratio. They were later weathered with various shades of Kremer and MIG earth pigments. The edges were dry-brushed with MIG Metallic Pigment.
oIL WAsH
I UseD VAn DYKe BRonze oIL PAInt tHInneD WItH WHIte sPIRIt. tHe MIxtURe WAs APPLIeD WItH A BRoAD BRUsH on tHe WHoLe VeHICLe AnD WIPeD oFF WItH Cotton sWABs AnD BRUsH AFteR ABoUt 15-20 MInUtes. AFteR next 24H tHe KIt WAs CoAteD WItH sAtIn CLeAR.
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PAInt CHIPPInG
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tHe DARKeR PAInt CHIPs WeRe PAInteD WItH A MIxtURe oF VALLeJo’s GLossY BLACK, sMoKe AnD A BIt oF GUnMetAL GRAY, WHILe FoR tHe LIGHteR ones I’Ve UseD A HIGHLY DILUteD MIxtURe oF GeRMAn UnIFoRM AnD sILVeR GRAY. tHe CHIPPInG WAs MAInLY MADe WItH tHe HeLP oF A sPonGe AnD ALso WItH FIne BRUsH.
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PIGMents
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I APPLIeD PIGMents BY An AIRBURsH, stARtInG FRoM tHe LIGHtest (MIG P234 RUBBeL DUst) to tHe DARKest (KReMeR RAW UMBeR). AFteR ReMoVInG tHe exCess WItH A BRUsH, ALL WeRe FIxeD WItH MIG PIGMent FIxeR.
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BAse My friend Kamil Feliks Sztarbała gave me a frame, which was a perfect fit for my model. I filled it with styrodur foam, which was fixed with acrylic resin. When it cured, I shaped it with a knife, cutting the excess styrodur foam in one corner, as I wanted to place the vehicle in a slightly raised position. The ground was a mixture of pot soil, pebbles, earth pigments and Uni-Grunt priming emulsion. When it dried, I airbrushed consecutive pigments, highlighting the surface in some places. Then, I started planting the grass. First, I glued some tufts, made of cut brush bristle, here and there. Next, I sprinkled Polak electrostatic grass of various length and colour. Vegetation was fixed with airbrushed Uni-Grunt priming emulsion. The areas with trampled down grass were corrected with lighter pigments and the grass was gently dry-brushed with Vallejo Light Green. Tracks were made with a sharp scriber. The only thing left to do, was to glue the miniature to the vignette with thick CA glue and add some pigments to make it more cohesive. tHe enD – FIGURes Both figures are from MiniArt set. Although they looked quite well, I decided that sharpening some details would do them good, as would the replacement of the heads with resin ones. Thus prepared figures were primed with Tamiya beige. The real painting was done with the reliable Vallejo Model Color acrylics. In both cases I started with painting the trousers with thinned Russian Uniform, which in recesses was darkened by consecutive layers of Black Glaze, while the folds were highlighted with the base colour mixed with Silver Gray. The cap was treated in the same way. Jacket, worn by one of the armour crewmen, was painted with Brown Green, and shaded similarly to the trousers. The second figure was dressed in a black leather jacket, the folds of which were enliven with a mixture of black and blue. The same was done with the boots worn by both Soviets. The map case straps were corrected by cutting and glueing new ones, because the original ones didn’t fit the figure well. All leather elements of the gear were covered with bronze brightened with Silver Grey. Faces and hands were coloured according to Ortiz’s formula with Brown Sand, Flat Flesh and Burnt Cadmium Red. Hair was painted with light beige and then washed with Brown Glaze. When all the details and shades were painted, I fixed them with a few layers of Mr. Color clear matt. The complete figures were glued with CA to the base and the joints were retouched with pigments to make them look natural.
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tHe MoDeL Is not PeRFeCt, BUt I HAD FUn BUILDInG It AnD LeARnInG A FeW neW tRICKs AnD teCHnIqUes. It WoULD HAVe not Been PossIBLe WItHoUt sUBstAntIVe AnD teCHnICAL sUPPoRt oF KAMIL FeLIKs sztARBAłA AnD PAWeł CzARnoCKI, to WHoM I AM GRAteFUL.
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KIts AnD AFteRMARKet ACCessoRIes: • • • • • • • • •
T-55A – Skif No. 221 122 mm D-25T gun barrel – RB Model 35B32 KPVT machine gun barrels – RB Model 35B21 outline markers – RB Model 35A01 antenna – RB Model 35A02 towing cables – Eureka LH-04 figures – MiniArt 35009, 35027 track links – Trumpeter 06622 Mesh Gauze/Square 8x8 – Eduard 00105
FIsH CHI , Ps,
&to
oLs
seLeCteD tooLs AnD MAteRIALs: • • • • • • •
glues: CA and Tamiya Extra Thin polystyrene sheets: 0.25-2mm polystyrene shapes: angle bars 1,5-2mm, round 0,5-2,5mm styrodur foam Polak electrostatic grass acrylic resin Uni-Grunt priming emulsion
CHeMICALs: • • • •
paints: Mr.Hobby Hobby Color series, Tamiya, Vallejo Model Color Mr.Hobby Gloss & Matt coats MIG & Kremer pigments MIG Pigment Fixer Super Model International No.2
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Each volume of the series is basically a big decal sheet with individual markings for aircraft or vehicles in three most popular scales. Each painting scheme is depicted on beautifully drawn colour profiles and described in the guidebook with English and Polish text.
www.kagero.pl
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t-55 Łukasz Orczyc-Musiałek
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tHe KInG tH oF BALKAn o BAttLeFIeLDs B
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T
ACCoRDInG to soMe soURCes, ALMost 100,000 t-54 AnD t-55 MAIn BAttLe tAnKs WeRe BUILt AnD UseD BY UP to 50 ARMIes WoRLDWIDe.
wenty years ago, Europe was shaken by the bloodiest war since the end of the global conflict in 1945. The former neighbours Serbs, Croats and Bosnians stood against each other. The Balkans ran with blood of thousands and entire cities were reduced to rubble. Armed forces of all the belligerents based their military strength on the equipment taken over after the break up of Yugoslavia. There are hundreds of photos of old T-34/85, T-55, T-72 and other, not only Russian vehicles on the Internet. All sides of the conflict used every vehicle capable of moving to strengthen their forces. It can be said, that that conflict is a treasure trove of ideas for a modeller interested in modern military vehicles. It sounds a bit awkward, but it is true.
sIDe-sKIRts, MUD AnD DAMPness – tHe Most InteRestInG tHInGs! I have not planned to build this vehicle, but life is full of surprises. Unexpectedly, I laid my hands on Tamiya’s kit. As usual for that manufacturer’s kits, the quality was excellent. However, that does not necessarily guarantee the same excellence of the final build. I was not interested in any paint schemes presented on the box. Originally, the vehicle was supposed to be single colour, but I did not want to build another usual green Soviet tank. Thus, a laborious search for an interesting looking example was initiated. Quite early in the process,
I found a inspiring photo taken during the war in the Balkans. It showed two tanks on a muddy road, standing among shabby buildings and surrounded by a few soldiers. One of the vehicles had rubber side-skirts that were supposed to protect it against RPG fire, since most of armoured vehicles fell victim to that weapon. The configuration of those protective measures was the most interesting. It was a standard to attach them to the hull, to protect the sides, but the vehicle in the photo had them on the turret as well. Moreover, there were two additional skirts on the front armour plate. Streaks and mud intensified the militant look of the vehicle, so one could not resist building its miniature. To learn about the way the side-skirts were attached, I looked for additional photos of T-55s that took part in the Balkan conflict. As it had already been mentioned, in a standard version three side-skirts were installed on each side of the hull only, with the third one being triangular in shape to protect the tracks and at the same time to prevent it from being entangled with the links. In combat conditions these shields were often lost or damaged, similarly to those on the German WWII tanks, which can often be seen with incomplete side-skirts or even completely without them. The crews often covered the front armour plate with additional pieces of rubber mats, cutting openings for hatches and headlights. Some archival photographs also show such skirts installed in the rear. The turret skirts were usually cut out from the side ones, bearing in mind not to cover the periscopes, because without them the crew was as blind as a bat. My idea for a model had crystallized and it was time to begin the assembly!
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BUILDInG BLoCKs The excellent fit of Tamiya kits can be easily compared to LEGO® bricks, so there is no need to write anything more about that. Generally, building the kit out of the box shouldn’t take more than three evenings. Naturally, if we assume that we start after supper and finish around midnight, which gives us about four hours a day. The offer presented by producers of various aftermarket sets is tempting. If one wanted to build a “de luxe” version of 68
CItADeL CHAos BLACK Is ReALLY A MAGIC PRIMInG soLUtIon. eVen IF We sPRAY too MUCH oF It, We Won’t notICe AnY sPILLs WHen DRIeD. tHe exCess sPReADs As IF It WAs toUCHeD WItH A MAGIC WAnD.
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I enHAnCeD tHe KIt BY sCRAtCHBUILDInG tHe FoLLoWInG DetAILs: • fuel lines connecting the fender tanks (wire), • loosely thrown blanket (Milliput), • new texture of the cast turret (putty), • rubber side-skirts (thick cardboard), • straps holding extra fuel drums (thin cardboard), • first road wheel’s ribs (wire), • fenders’ details (various wires, photo-etched and cardboard), • steel flats at the side skirts (cardboard) and clamping screws (photo-etched elements), • tools (Dragon set), • headlight cables and driver’s periscopes hoses (wire).
T-55, it would easily mean spending even 250 EUR. Photo-etched or resin upgrade sets, metal track links, barrels, towing cables, antennas, fuel drums, decals – the list is so long, that it almost seems neverending, since every major manufacturer offers some detail sets for that kit. I restricted myself to “mini” version, buying RB Model turned gun barrel and antenna plus Eureka XXL towing cables. That was enough, since Tamiya provides a sufficient level of details. I regret not buying the Friulmodel tracks, which would have enabled me to build a working suspension. However, the rubber tracks offered by Tamiya were a pleasure to work with, so there was no reason to complain! Apart from the aforementioned photos of the Balkan war vehicles, the first volume of “Model Detail Photo Monograph No.9” about T-55/55A was a valuable reference, as were the various walkarounds found on the Internet. Actually, the photos show a multitude of various designs based on that tank’s chassis. Some of them were really interesting and uncommon, as e.g. a vehicle armed with 40mm anti-aircraft cannon. PAIntInG I started by spraying the entire model with Citadel Chaos Black primer. The turret, machine gun, hull, side-skirts and chassis elements were painted separately. Luckily, there was no need for corrections, that are usually necessary after the first layer of primer or paint is applied.
Choosing the right base colour took me some time. The photo that I base my model on, shows a tank painted rather dark, but standard T-55 colour was faded, light green. I decided to mix two shades, Vallejo Model Color acrylics 892 and 886 in 3 to 1 ratio. Although a single colour model is a great base for popular Colour Modulation technique, I decided not to apply it. The reason was simple – I am not convinced by the effects thus created. To be more specific, the highlighting and toning down of the hull sides and the turret does not look natural. On the other hand, I like highlighting small details with various shades of a given colour. Let us say, that this is my idea of colour modulation. I didn’t use any decals that time, all the markings were hand painted on the basis of available photos and drawings. It took me quite some time to find an appropriate name for the vehicle. The internet proved useful, as I found a list of Serbian names along with their translations. “Bojana” stands for a woman-warrior and it was an excellent name for a tank. Apart from it, the barrel was also graced with Serbian flag and Serbian cross on the turret’s searchlight. The last hand-painted detail were the remains of an inscription on the rubber skirt in the front section of the hull. Originally, it was supposed to come from a destroyed tank, which the crew passed by on the way. After applying the MIG Dark Wash and highlighting some of the flat surfaces Super Model International No.2
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with filters and oil paints, I fixed it all with a delicate mist of satin varnish. Then, I could easily start with recreating vertical streaks, for which I again used the oil paints. At that stage I used turpentine as thinner, which tarnished the previous varnish layer. The most time consuming task was painting scratches and paint chips. To avoid monotony, I divided the model into sections. Fenders, top of the hull, rear, turret and the remaining bits and pieces were “paint chipped” separately, first with light green paint, using a sponge and a fine detail brush, and then with dark bronze. Thus, I avoided any possible mistakes, mainly overdoing, which often happens during such tiresome procedure. Other obvious examples of dividing the painting process into sections are the wooden beam, so typical of Russian tanks, as well as the heavy machine gun on the turret and extra fuel drums installed in the rear. DUst oF tHe BAttLeFIeLD Now for the best part – pigments and weathering! I love this phase. Streaks and wet spots start to appear on all sort of plates; rain marks and fuel stains, mud left on the armour by the crew’s footsteps, rags stuffed between the stowage boxes 70
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DURInG tHe WAR tHe RIGID RULes oF ARMY ReGULAtIons CoMe DoWn to seConD PLACe, WHICH Is Most eVIDent In tHe CUstoM MARKInGs oF tHe VeHICLes. tHIs tRADItIon DAtes BACK to WoRLD WAR I, WHen tHe FIRst tAnKs HAD ALReADY CARRIeD tHeIR nAMes.
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– they all make the model look like a replica of a real vehicle. I started with the chassis. First, I airbrushed the “initial” coating of dust. I usually use US Field Drab paint for that. Only after that step, I used the pigments. In case of tracks these were MIG Track Brown, Europe Dust, Russian Earth and Dark Mud. I applied them more or less in that order to finally fix them with MIG Pigment Fixer. To speed up the drying process, I used a hair dryer. I am more and more convinced that it is an essential tool in the modeller’s workshop. The wheels were treated in a similar fashion, but I didn’t use Track Brown pigment there. Then I could attach the entire suspension system to the model. The tracks were attached to the wheels, simulating their slack (although on one side they are almost completely hidden) and finally I glued the rubber side-skirts which were prepared earlier. The time had come to start the proper “dust covering”. The aforementioned set of pigments was supplemented with Dry Mud, Rubbel Dust and Light European Earth. With such a set, I managed to achieve the desired effect on all the model’s surfaces. Additionally, I applied exhaust marks with Agama black pigment. Most of the vertical streaks were made with pigments diluted with water, while some others with MIG Rainmarks. Greasy stains were made with MIG Thinner for Washes mixed in various proportions with the same MIG Oil and Grease Stain Mixture. Pigments were also used to imitate rust on the spare track links. The DShK heavy machine gun and towing cables were dry-brushed with metalizer. Finally, with a knife’s blade I made fine cuts on the side-skirts, imitating small scratches, like those made by roadside brushes.
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Do YoU ReMeMBeR tHe KIts YoU’Ve FInIsHeD 15-20 YeARs AGo? I’M CURIoUs WHAt WoULD YoU tHInK ABoUt tHIs MInIAtURe IF YoU sAW It tHen. I ALso WonDeR WHAt CHAnGes In MoDeL BUILDInG AnD PAIntInG WILL oCCUR WItHIn tHe next 20 YeARs. tHese ReFLeCtIons Don’t CHAnGe tHe FACt tHAt AnY AFV MoDeL sUFFeReD FRoM APPLYInG soMe MUD…
ePILoGUe I am not going to write that building that kit was pure entertainment, assembly was excellent and I will build it again someday. I always chuckle to myself when I read things like that at the end of an article, since I am convinced that majority of the authors does not do such things! There is no need to mention that it was another valuable experience, because it is obvious. However, I have already opened another box and this time it is not a tank!
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FIsH CHI , Ps,
&to
KIts AnD AFteRMARKet ACCessoRIes: • • • •
oLs
T-55A Russian Medium Tank – Tamiya 35257 RB Model 35B41 turned barrel RB Model 35A14 antenna Eureka XXL 3506 towing lines
seLeCteD tooLs AnD MAteRIALs: • • • •
various gauges of copper wire cardboard Milliput modelling putty
PAInts AnD WeAtHeRInG PRoDUCts: • • • •
Citadel Chaos Black primer Vallejo Model Color paints MIG and Agama pigments MIG Pigment Fixer, Thinner for Washes, Dark Wash, Rainmarks, Oil and Grease Stain Mixture
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Przemysław Szymczyk 31 years old, I live in Łódź, Poland. My adventure with scale models had started at the age of 10, couple of years later I gave up the hobby and returned to it about 8 years ago. I’m mostly focused on AFV models and figures (I’m also a beginner sculptor), but ain’t avoiding other domains of this wonderful hobby.
Łukasz Kapelski My modelling adventure started a few years ago after an accidental visit in a hobby shop. Colourful boxes drew me forever. I prefer to build WW2 armoured vehicles in 1:35 scale, but also don’t avoid 1:72 and 1:48 kits. I like to place my models on dioramas or vignettes as I feel that even a small base enhances the visual impact of my works.
Rafał Bulanda I’ve become a modeller many years ago. I usually build 1:35 scale AFV kits, but sometimes I choose other subjects like sci-fi spacecraft or civil motorcycles. Recently I also started to scratch build due to the lack of certain models on the market. Music and film are my other passions. I work in the printing industry.
Łukasz Orczyc-Musiałek My first kit was made almost 20 years ago and it was a paper plane. So far I have built a lot of models but my favourite are AFVs and figures in 1:35 scale. All my models are parts of collections all over the world and this makes me feel proud. Apart from modelling I’m also a motorbike enthusiast.
