Kentucky Fresh Cookbook

The Kentucky Fresh Cookbook

The Kentucky Fresh Cookbook Maggie Green

The University Press of Kentucky

Copyright © 2011 by Maggie Green Scholarly publisher for the Commonwealth, serving Bellarmine University, Berea College, Centre College of Kentucky, Eastern Kentucky University, The Filson Historical Society, Georgetown College, Kentucky Historical Society, Kentucky State University, Morehead State University, Murray State University, Northern Kentucky University, Transylvania University, University of Kentucky, University of Louisville, and Western Kentucky University. All rights reserved. Editorial and Sales Offices: The University Press of Kentucky 663 South Limestone Street, Lexington, Kentucky 40508-4008 www.kentuckypress.com 15  14  13  12  11   5  4  3  2  1 Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Green, Maggie.   The Kentucky fresh cookbook / Maggie Green.    p.  cm.   Includes bibliographical references and index.   isbn 978-0-8131-3376-8 (pbk. : alk. paper) — isbn 978-0-8131-3378-2 (ebook) 1. Cooking—Kentucky.  2. Cooking, American.  3. Cookbooks.  I. Title.   tx715.g811485  2011   641.59769—dc22 2010052269 This book is printed on acid-free, 30% post-consumer recycled paper meeting the requirements of the American National Standard for Permanence in Paper for Printed Library Materials.

Manufactured in the United States of America.

Member of the Association of American University Presses

To Warren, who never doubted, never asked why, and never gave less than his entire self, and to our three children, Stuart, Julia, and Neil. This book is as much about our journey as it is about my own.

Live in each season as it passes: breathe the air, drink the drink, taste the fruit. —henry david thoreau

Contents Recipes by Category  ix Preface  xv Acknowledgments  xix Introduction  1 Kentucky-Grown and -Produced Food  3 Buying Tips  5 What About Organic?  10 Using the Recipes  11

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January  15 February  43 March  70 April  95 May  119 June  147

The Kitchen Toolbox  335 The Modern Kitchen and Pantry  335 Cooking Methods and Food Preservation Techniques  337 Equipment List  339

July  169

Publications, Resources, and Festivals 

August  197

Kentucky Produce Availability Chart 

September  225

A Calendar of Menus 

October  251 November  276 December  308

Index 

359

353

341

348

Recipes by Category

Appetizers and Party-worthy Food Cheese Dip with Chutney, Bacon, and Green Onions  53 Beer Cheese Hummus  53 Buffalo-Style Turkey Meatballs  54 Guacamole Deviled Eggs  110 Spicy Garlic Beer Cheese  154 Kentucky Dill Dip  155 Cream Cheese Olive Nut Spread  221 Turnip Greens Dip  261 Spicy Cheese Wafers  324 Brown Sugar Spiced Nuts  325 Kentucky Kettle Corn  326 Endive Cups with Goat Cheese and Almonds  333 Garlic Walnut Spread  333

Morning Food Lemon Blueberry Cornmeal Muffins  17 Shaker Pumpkin Muffins with Walnuts and Flax Seed  18 Mini Lemon Cream Scones  46 Chocolate Cherry Scones  47 Kentucky Coffee Tree Scones  48 Mile-High Buttermilk Pancakes  72 Multigrain Flapjack Mix  73

Multigrain Flapjacks  73 Baked Eggs with Parmesan and Herbs  98 Mushroom and Asparagus Skillet Frittata  100 Kentucky Cornbread Strata  120 Country Ham and Green Onion Breakfast Casserole  121 Baked Stuffed French Toast with Blackberry Jam  148 Banana Bourbon Walnut French Toast  149 Crunchy Pecan Granola  171 Overnight Oatmeal with Yogurt and Berries  172 Creamy Steel-Cut Oats  199 Stone-Ground Grits with Kentucky Honey and Dried Fruit  200 Big-Crumbs Crumb Cake  228 Sour Cream Coffee Cake  230 Cornmeal Waffles  253 Sour Cream Gingerbread Waffles  254 Pork Sausage Goetta  279 Slow Cooker Vegetarian Goetta  280 Herbed Pork Sausage Patties  281 Oven-Fried Breakfast Potatoes  281 Soft Buttermilk Biscuits  310 Cream Biscuits  311

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Preserves Homemade Strawberry Freezer Jam  150 Oven-Baked Pumpkin Butter  255 Concord Grape Preserves  256

Soups and Chili White Bean Soup with Pasta and Kale  36 Lentil Soup with Red Wine and Parsley  38 Potato Soup with White Cheddar and Ale  39 Fresh Salmon Chowder  40 Navy Bean Soup with Ham and Bourbon  41 Sweet Potato Vegetable Soup  42 White Bean and Chicken Chili  53 Estill County Shiitake Soup  129 Cincinnati Chili  287 Smoky Chili Non Carne  289 Vista Grand Buffalo or Venison Chili  290

Sandwiches, Burgers, and Breads Cast-Iron Skillet Soda Bread  79 Almond-Crusted Grouper Sandwiches  86 Stone-Ground Cornmeal Hush Puppies  88 Muffulettas  101 White Cheddar Pimiento Cheese Sandwiches  102 Linen-Napkin Dinner Rolls  111 Whole-Egg Spoonbread  135 Bluegrass Cheese Burgers  143 Bacon Benedictine Sandwich  222 Herbed Beer Batter Bread  240 Root Beer Sloppy Joes  247

x  recipes by category

Buffalo Sliders with Smoky Remoulade Sauce  262 Cornmeal Pizza Dough  272 Red Grape, Caramelized Onion, and Goat Cheese Pizza  274 Shaker Cornsticks  292 Buttermilk Cornbread  293 Chili Cheddar Cornbread  294 Silver Dollar Corncakes  295

Salads and Slaws Winter Chopped Salad  22 Blood Orange Ambrosia  27 Winter Citrus Salad with Arugula  30 Winter Wheat Berry Salad  63 Modern Caesar Salad with Salt and Pepper Croutons  67 Spring Salad with Poppy Seed Dressing  109 Wilted Lettuce with Hot Bacon Vinaigrette  114 Mixed Greens Salad with Sweet Garlic Dressing  116 Smoked Trout and Watercress Niçoise Salad  130 Bibb Lettuce with Fresh Chive Vinaigrette  132 Spring Radish Salad  137 Bowtie Pasta with Spinach and Almonds  155 Pea and Peanut Salad  157 Blueberry Spinach Salad  160 Roasted Potato Salad with Olives and Capers  162 Sweet and Sour Creamy Coleslaw  179 Sunflower Slaw  180 Nina’s Potato Salad  182

Watermelon and Cucumber Salad  207 Cornbread and Tomato Salad  208 Fresh Corn and Lima Bean Salad  216 Dried Cherry and Pecan Chicken Salad  220 Red Cabbage Hot Slaw  239 Mixed Greens with Pumpkin Seeds and Dried Cranberries  248 Fall Salad with Pears and Maple Balsamic Vinaigrette  265 Broccoli, Apple, Raisin Salad  275 Greek Salad with Creamy Dressing  286 Spinach and Roasted Sweet Potato Salad with Maple-Mustard Dressing  303 Endive and Pear Salad with Walnuts  318

Beans, Grains, and Pasta Yellow Basmati Rice Pilaf  24 Spicy Stewed Black-Eyed Peas and Kale  31 Smoky Black Beans with Sweet Potatoes  56 Curried Chickpeas with Golden Raisins  57 Skillet Red Beans  58 Spicy Butternut Squash and Chickpea Stew  59 Black Bean Burritos  60 Cilantro Lime Rice  62 Cardamom Brown Rice  62 Creamy Penne and Cheese  87 Arugula Pesto over Angel-Hair Pasta  138 Red Beans and Rice with Chili Vinaigrette  157 Sweet Bourbon Baked Beans  183

Beef, Pork, and Lamb Main Dishes Slow-Roasted Pork Shoulder  23 Homemade Italian Meatballs  35 Flank Steak with Red Wine Pan Sauce  65 Kentucky Barrel Ale Stew  77 Cola Pot Roast  81 Honey Bourbon Glazed Ham  106 Burgoo  125 Herb-Crusted Lamb Chops  133 Flat Iron Steak with Brown Sugar Rub  161 Grilled Bourbon Pork Tenderloin  167 Ale-8 One Slow Cooker Pork Barbecue  175 Oven-Roasted Sausage with Potatoes and Rosemary  238 Roasted Tenderloin of Beef  316

Poultry Main Dishes Chicken Pie  28 Oven-Fried Boneless Chicken Thighs  82 Split Grilled Chicken  146 Grilled Chicken Thighs with Lemon-Herb Oil  166 Moist Grilled Chicken Breasts  205 Chicken Sausage with Squash and Fresh Herbs  211 Chicken and Cornmeal Dumplings  243 Stovetop Bourbon Barbecue Chicken  246 Roasted Brined Chicken  264 Roasted Brined Turkey  299

recipes by category  xi

Fish and Seafood Main Dishes

Condiments, Sauces, and Dressings

Pan-Roasted Salmon  80 Pecan-Crusted Kentucky Rainbow Trout  91 Hearty Catfish Cakes  92 Kentucky Honey–Lime Grilled Salmon  144 Shrimp and Creamy Grits  235 Peel-’n’-Eat Barbecue Shrimp  236

Fresh Parsley Sauce  24 Mama Maggie’s Italian Meat Sauce  33 Spicy Marinara Sauce  34 Mustard-Caper Tartar Sauce  87 Spicy Seasoning Mix  93 Honey Lemon Vinaigrette  116 Sunflower Herb Dressing  117 Warren’s Vinaigrette for Mixed Greens  118 Green Goddess Dressing  118 Garlic Scape Pesto  163 Mint Simple Syrup  165 Basic Barbecue Dry Rub  177 Warren’s Henry Bain–Style Barbecue Sauce  178 Brown Sugar Bourbon Barbecue Sauce  178 Fresh Peach Salsa  213 Smoky Tomato Salsa  214 Basil Walnut Pesto  217 Bread and Butter Freezer Pickles  218 Margaret’s Chili Sauce (Mamaw’s Ketchup)  219 Sour Cream Whipped Cream  242 Smoky Remoulade Sauce  262 Thirty-Minute Pizza Sauce  273 Bourbon Cranberry Relish  305

Vegetables and Other Side Dishes Spicy Braised Greens  64 Oven-Roasted Root Vegetables  66 Fluffiest Mashed Potatoes  78 Garlic Roasted Broccoli with Almonds  83 Sweet Gingered Carrot Matchsticks  84 Olive Oil Mashed Potatoes  84 Roasted Asparagus  108 Steamed Asparagus with Toasted Sesame Mayonnaise  126 Roasted Potatoes with Garlic and Parsley  134 Cornmeal-Crusted Fried Green Tomatoes  181 Fresh Basil Beans  206 Grill-Roasted Corn on the Cob  213 Chunky Ratatouille  215 Pan-Roasted Brussels Sprouts with Brown Sugar  248 Maple-Roasted Apples and Onions  249 Oven-Baked Sweet Potato Fries  249 Maple Mashed Sweet Potatoes  266 Braised Kale with Diced Tomato  266 Cornbread or Traditional Bread Dressing  301 Peggy’s Corn Pudding  302 Sweet Potatoes with Pecan Topping  304 White Cheddar Grits  317

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Dessert and Sweet Things Warm Bread Pudding with Kentucky Bourbon Sauce  25 Vanilla Bourbon Cup Custards  29 Warm Chocolate Bourbon Cakes  68 Brown Sugar Bourbon Whipped Cream  69 Rich Chocolate Sauce  69

Shaker Lemon Pie  89 All-Butter Pie Crust  90 One-Pan Pecan Brownies  94 Everything Cookies  104 Italian Cream Sheet Cake  112 Bluegrass Piettes  127 Bourbon Chocolate Walnut Pie  128 Sour Cream Lemon Loaf Cake  131 Fresh Strawberries with Vanilla Bourbon Zabaglione  136 Rhubarb Crisp with Granola Topping  139 Buttermilk Black-’n’-Blue Berry Cobbler  186 Nina’s Coca-Cola Cake  188 Fresh Blackberry Sheet Cake  189 Golden Buttermilk Sheet Cake  191 Moist Carrot Sheet Cake  192 Homemade Vanilla Ice Cream  195 Homemade Waffle Cones  196 Peach Blueberry Pecan Crisp  209 One-Pan Chocolate Chip Pecan Blondies  223 Mini Black Forest Shortcakes  241 Gingerbread with Sorghum  250 Concord Grape Piettes with Pecan Streusel Topping  268 Cream Cheese Pastry  269 Deep-Dish Bourbon Brown Sugar Apple Pie  271 Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Brown Sugar Bourbon Whipped Cream  306

Bourbon Mincemeat Pie  307 Kentucky Blackberry Jam Cake  319 Black Walnut Sheet Cake  321 Shortbread Cutouts  327 Margaret’s Bourbon Balls  328 Buckeyes  329 Tiny Fruitcake Cookies  330

Frostings and Icings Vanilla Bean Cream Cheese Frosting  193 Chocolate Fudge Frosting  194 Soft Caramel Icing  194

Drinks Kentucky Irish Coffee  79 Bourbon Mint Slushies  124 Mojito  164 Blueberry Mojito  165 Fresh Herbed Lemonade  184 Sweet Iced Tea  185 Arnold Palmer  185 Kentucky Wine Cooler Slush  210 Bluegrass Breeze  263 Carl’s Pendennis Club Punch  298 Whipped Hot Chocolate  314 Café Mocha Mix  314 Bourbon Ball Cocktail  331 Bacon Bourbon Cocktail  332

recipes by category  xiii

Preface

Other than my Kentucky roots,

I might not be the most obvious choice to write a Kentucky cookbook. I am the fifth daughter from a large Lexington family. One of my grandfathers was Czechoslovakian, one grandmother and another grandfather were Irish, and one great-grandmother hailed from Kings Mountain, Kentucky. Like all of my seven siblings, I’m a second-generation graduate of the University of Kentucky, so suffice it to say our blood runs blue. My family doesn’t farm, and I grew up smack dab in the middle of Lexington, three blocks from Commonwealth Stadium. I don’t bake my own bread very often, and my mom bought loaves of bread, along with assorted Hostess fruit pies, at the discount bread store. I don’t run a restaurant, and eating out is the exception, not the rule. Other than some experimental tomato and pepper plants in a raised bed, I don’t grow a large vegetable garden. That being said, my knowledge of food and meals originated in the kitchen of my childhood home and in the kitchens of my relatives. These kitchens weren’t decorated with granite countertops, televisions, and fancy pots and pans, but they were filled with the work of putting meals on the table almost every day. The kitchen in my parents’ home was command central for our family of ten and a place where family meals were cooked every day, all year long. The custombuilt table in the adjacent “eating room” was testimony to the importance of these meals. The table was twice as long as it was wide and required special-order tablecloths and lots of chairs. When it was time to eat, we crammed as many people around that table as would fit—aunts, uncles, step-grandmothers, cousins, boyfriends, and stray friends from college. Meals also played a large role in family celebrations. My mother, my grandmother, and my aunts Mary and Eileen made sure that every birthday, graduation, baptism, confirmation, first communion, Thanksgiving, Christmas, Fourth of July, and St. Patrick’s Day included a meal, cake and ice cream, a cold glass of milk or maybe some pie and iced tea, and, for those old enough to imbibe, a bourbon and water.

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Mom leaned heavily on German-inspired foods to keep my father’s food idiosyncrasies in check, including pork roast, breaded pork cutlets (or Wiener schnitzel, as my family called it), and red cabbage. Other staples were roast beef, meatloaf, spaghetti, fresh vegetables, mashed potatoes, and salad. She whipped up meals for our family with the budgeted grocery money she tucked away in the kitchen drawer. Although these meals weren’t particularly fancy, they were fresh and appeared regularly and without a hitch, at least as far as my young four-eyed self could tell. I never worried about where my next meal would come from. As a child, I didn’t give much thought to Mom’s routine night after night. But now, as an adult and a mother, I understand the planning, time, and commitment her daily meal preparation involved. During my high school and college days, I spent my free time reading cookbooks. While one sister had her nose buried in Johnny Tremain or Little Women, I had mine buried in What’s Cooking in Kentucky and volumes of Southern Living’s Annual Recipes. I studied the recipes as if they were scientific formulas, and on special occasions I cooked from said books: veal scaloppine for my handsome boyfriend, frozen fruit salad for a family dinner, or Black Forest cake for my dad’s birthday. Sometimes I was happy with the results of my cooking and baking, and sometimes I wasn’t, but failure didn’t deter me. Even when the layers of the cake were so lopsided they almost slid off the plate, my aunt Mary always stood by my efforts. “Maybe the oven racks are warped,” she’d quip as we loaded the dishwasher. As a family, we traveled to my grandmother’s kitchen on the other side of the tracks, where she cooked for herself, my aunt Mary, and anyone who happened to be visiting at the time. Mamaw could make anything taste delectable: stewed chicken, meatloaf, baked ham, pork chops, “something green,” iced tea, soft yeast rolls, and apple dumplings. On other occasions, we drove to Ludlow to visit my great-grandmother and her niece Frances, where we witnessed an apartment kitchen in action. We’d eat a homemade turkey dinner off rickety card tables while their huge tomcats hid under the bed. After we had our fill, Dad granted us permission to walk to Farrell’s Drugstore to get a breath of fresh, cool air. The thermostat was set way too high for us leggy Kroboth girls, clad modestly in sweaters, wool skirts, and thick tights. On Sunday afternoons we’d drive the back roads from Lexington to my aunt Eileen’s farm in Stamping Ground. After a hike to the back of the farm or perhaps a romp around the pond, we’d leave our muddy shoes on the porch and proceed to the kitchen to share a ham dinner with slices of white and brown bread, potato salad, tomato aspic, a relish platter, and the best yellow cake with caramel icing that side of Fayette County. Outside of my family’s kitchens, I gobbled down watermelon pickles at Shaker Village, egg salad sandwiches at

xvi  preface

Wheeler Pharmacy, and fried banana peppers and cornmeal-crusted catfish at Hall’s On The River, and I shared slices of pecan pie with my sisters at a tiny diner under the looming bridge at Camp Nelson. Wherever I went, food intrigued me. But I soon realized that behind the food I enjoyed was a kitchen, and in that kitchen was a person who, like it or not, was doing whatever she or he had to do to get the food on the table. After some soul-searching, I decided to trade my engineering major at UK for one in food and nutrition. My sister Frances, my boyfriend Warren, and even my mother were sure this choice predestined me to a life sweating over a hot steam table serving hot dogs with a potato option. Despite their trepidation, I switched majors, graduated with honors, and took great pride in my career as a registered dietitian working in clinics, hospitals, and nursing homes. The deeper I delved into nutrition, the more I realized the connection between cooking and nutrition, between cooking and health, and ultimately between cooking and home. To enhance and expand my nutrition degree, I enrolled in an intensive twelve-month culinary arts program at Sullivan University in Louisville. During that time, my eyes and my taste buds were opened to the beauty and craft of cooking. Of all the things I learned from the chef instructors, the concept of choosing high-quality ingredients at their peak of freshness, and then handling and cooking them with care and respect, made an indelible impression on me. I now enjoy the best of three worlds: food, nutrition, and cooking. I have worked as a personal chef, cookbook editor, food and nutrition writer, and industry consultant. Having the opportunity to write a cookbook and share my love for Kentucky and the craft of cooking is, in my opinion, nothing short of providential. Never has there been a greater call to unleash the potential of our kitchens and make them places of action, places where families cook, eat, and live together, one meal at a time. As a society, we’re concerned about our health, the safety of our food, and the personal and environmental impacts of our food choices. These reasons, along with food’s ability to bring people together, drive me into my kitchen to cook with fresh, seasonal, and even traditional Kentucky ingredients. My hope is to inspire cooks of all ages to do the same every day, all year long. If there’s something I need to know about a recipe, an ingredient, a Kentucky producer, or a Kentucky food tradition, I’d love to hear from you. You can write to me at [email protected], visit www.KentuckyFreshCookbook.com, or contact me via the University Press of Kentucky at www.kentuckypress.com.

preface  xvii

Acknowledgments

Writing a book is a labor of love, and in a strange way, it mimics cooking. Showing up at the cutting board every day to prepare fresh, home-cooked meals is really no different from showing up at the computer every day to write. Day after day, week after week, and year after year, whether putting words on paper or vegetables in the pan, the job continues. Love is what brings me into my kitchen, and it has brought forth this book. For the most part, I wrote it alone, but I would be remiss if I didn’t acknowledge the other major players in this unfolding kitchen drama. My leading man and the best male cook I know, Warren Green stood beside me every step of the way. In his largehearted way, he said yes to washing pots and pans, lighting the grill, running to the grocery, and reading bits and pieces of this work. Without his encouragement, this book might have been shredded with our eight-year-old tax returns. I am forever grateful to the workings of the universe for bringing us together, keeping us together, and providing the ways and means to live in a home with an action-packed kitchen. Our three children, Stuart, Julia, and Neil, are the heart of what I do. They are the cream in my coffee, the olive oil in my sauté pan, and the salt in my soup. They are the real reason I stand at my cutting board night after night. I hope they pass on to their friends and families their love for freshly prepared meals and the commitment, trust, and faith that build when you look over the mashed potatoes at someone you care about day in and day out. My mother Peggy Kroboth and my late father Carl P. Kroboth Jr. cared for our family, provided meals, and planned trips in and around Kentucky. Thanks to them, I have a strong sense of my Kentucky home. I meant it when I said I never worried about where my next meal was coming from, and I thank them for supporting me and for using silver julep cups, bone china plates, and linen tablecloths every now and then. My aunt Eileen saves newspaper and magazine recipes and articles for me like no other. When I visit, she is more interested in how I’m doing than anything else.

xix

Her words are encouraging, and the clear glass cookie jar in her kitchen is always full of Little Debbie snacks, which I’m welcome to reach in and enjoy. My late grandmother Margaret Rose O’Neil Kearney lovingly shared with me her name, her love for real mayonnaise, and lessons about how to live as a city girl in Kentucky. My late aunt Mary Kearney knew my favorite foods and served them when I came to visit. I miss her funny comments and her smile. In more ways than one, she was one of my biggest cheerleaders. My mother-in-law Nina Green and my late father-in-law Henry L. Green know me, warts and all, and have supported me through our years of gathering around the virtual “smoke pit” sharing stories, photos, meals, and memories of family, friends, vegetable gardens, and horses. My sisters Kaye, Theresa, Anne, Barbara, Mary, and Frances and my brother Carl run the gamut from advisers to confidants. Not many cookbook authors can say they’ve shared a kitchen table and a bathroom sink (not to mention pig treats, chopped salads, pinto beans, scones, pad Thai, orange whips, and more than a few cream pies) with such a smart, savvy group of siblings. More than the memories and the food, I thank each of them for their encouragement during this project and for helping me remember the gift of having a large family. Wayne, Lori, and Mike are Warren’s siblings, and I love them like my own. I couldn’t have asked for more well-rounded group; they’ve known me for a long time and still manage to make me laugh. I am grateful for their support in all our cooking endeavors. One of the best parts of having a large family is the people who are added to it when those we care about—in this case, our siblings—fall in love. Kevin, Jack, Mike, Stewart, Bob, Bill, Dawn, Tara, and Sam are the best, and if they were here, I’d raise my glass and toast them all. Father Mark Keene and the staff and parishioners of St. Agnes Parish are an important part of my Northern Kentucky family. When I celebrate the liturgy with them I know Northern Kentucky is where my family belongs. Their witness to faith, hope, and love reminds me that the writing of this book was possible only through the grace of God. The love and support of my friends from other parishes, in particular Kay, Marianne, and Mary, helped me persevere in this project while maintaining proper perspective and balance in my life. At the University Press of Kentucky, I thank Laura Sutton, my former editor who saw the potential for this book before I even knew I would be capable of writing it. She helped shape this book from concept to manuscript. When Anne Dean Watkins seamlessly took over as my editor at the press, she made finishing this project

xx  acknowledgments

much easier. Melinda Wirkus managed and fine-tuned the production schedule with precision, and I thank her for working with me so gracefully. Linda Lotz bravely helped shape the manuscript into one in which the stories and recipes ebb and flow like the seasons of the year. Thanks also to the proofreaders and anonymous reviewers who helped make this a better book. John Hussey, Mack McCormick, Ashley Runyon, and Cameron Ludwick worked tirelessly to market, promote, and publicize this book, and I am forever grateful to them for getting The Kentucky Fresh word out. Ann Malcolm worked behind the scenes with Laura and Anne Dean, and I’m quite confident the work she does plays an important role in the seamless movement of proposals, manuscripts, and contracts. Sara and Brian Turner of Cricket Press created the beautiful cover art and illustrations for this book, adding local color and flair. Erin New worked hard to create a unique design, and her professional touch has given this Kentucky cookbook a wonderfully fresh look. And my heartfelt thanks to Judy Davis, who brought the book “home” with the creation of a functional index. I am thrilled Judy was one of the last people to touch the book proofs, and I can confidently say we are all better off because of that. Ethan and Susan Becker are largely responsible for my initial splash in the cookbook world by trusting me to help them edit the 2006 edition of Joy of Cooking. Their friendship has been a source of great joy, and it was an honor to work with them on America’s favorite cookbook. Shirley Corriher and her dear husband Arch are true friends who taught me how to push a peanut up a mountain, beat sugar and butter together for a long time to get a tall cake, and search for the out-of-place em dash. I feel privileged to have worked with them and am relieved they still answer the phone when I call to chat. Although the culinary program at Sullivan University brought us together, Sara Gibbs and her husband Tom would be my friends even if we didn’t cook. I thank them for the advice, phone calls, and manuscript review. And Sara is the person I’d call if I wanted to know how much flavor I had when I was forty-five days old. Bill Thomas, publisher of Inside Your Town, welcomed my contribution of the “From My Kitchen Table” column for his paper many years ago. Thanks to him, I’ve learned a great deal about writing for the public—how to tell a story and share a recipe, which are what food and cooking are all about. Abby Dodge, author of Desserts 4 Today, went above and beyond for this book, reading both the proposal and the manuscript. If I were able to deliver a pie to her every day, I would do so to show my gratitude for her hard work. Rebecca Gray, expert editor for the Joy of Cooking and author of American Artisanal, also took the time to read my proposal and offer her advice about the shape of the book.

acknowledgments  xxi

Joyce Pinson shared her expertise on Kentucky gardens and reviewed the produce chart for this book. Sis and Warren Heist, Tom, Emily, Amy, and the staff at Kremer’s Market are enthusiastic local supporters of The Green Apron Company. The many cooking classes we taught were entertaining ways to connect with their customers and share a common love of fresh ingredients, cooking, and eating together. Peggy Kroboth, Kaye Flamm, Anne Frazier, Barbara Burch, Mary Anderson, Frances Banks, Lori Bright, Tara Williams, Becky Moening, Janie Neff, Laura Tilford, Stuart Green, Julia Green, Warren Green, and the readers of “From My Kitchen Table” have cooked recipes from this book. For their comments and suggestions on ways to improve this book’s flavor and appeal, I am grateful. And I thank Theresa Renaud for her photography and camera skills and general willingness to help out. Finally, I thank all my family and friends who have come over for dinner at one time or another. Friends and family add spice, spark, and verve to life. Cooking for them makes me a better person, and in the end, relationships are what sharing a meal is all about: conversation, a glass of wine, and don’t forget a good piece of cake.

xxii  acknowledgments

The Kentucky Fresh Cookbook

Introduction

As humans, our need for food and nourishment is common ground. Religious beliefs, political leanings, age, skin color, nationality, and social status aside, the need for food unites us. We all need to eat, and at the end of the day, we all need to share time with those we care about. The globalization of our nation’s food supply and the move from farms to cities and suburbs have reduced our reliance on local agriculture. At the same time, these changes have reduced our reliance on cooking and, in a strange way, our reliance on one another. Canned goods, frozen foods, packaged meals, and quick-serve restaurants have changed the landscape of the modern kitchen. With an abundance of ready-to-eat food available at any time and at any price, no one needs to cook anymore. In the car, on the couch, at a gas station, at a ball game, and at the mall, cooked food to fill our hungry bellies is everywhere. Whether it is delivered to our door, handed to us in a bag through a window, or served at a table in a restaurant, food is available without our ever having to cook. That was not the case just a few generations ago. As a result, home kitchens have changed from sticky, well-used rooms with refrigerators full of leftovers to showplaces with stainless-steel appliances, barely stocked refrigerators, and rarely used ovens. Cooking has become something someone else does for us. We complain of being too tired to cook, too liberated to cook, too busy to cook, too educated to cook, and unable to cook. And guess what? We don’t have to cook. With the lack of cooking comes a loss of cooking skills. Our advanced society has produced a generation of young adults who have never watched anyone cook and don’t understand why anyone might need to know how to cook. And frankly, it’s starting to show. Despite the abundance of readily available food, we still experience malnourishment, obesity, disordered eating, hunger, and loneliness. Food and drink are abused, leading to chronic illness, social disorders, and environmental concerns. Obesity, diabetes, heart disease, and alcoholism are the price Kentucky, and most of the nation, pays for this abundance of food and drink.

1

Still, I suspect that many Kentuckians are like me. They love Kentucky and the unique food traditions it offers. They enjoy the balance of Kentucky’s changing seasons. They want to be rooted more in Kentucky traditions and in family and friends, but in our time-starved society, they aren’t sure how to go about it. To me, the answer is plain and simple: cook fresh meals at home with real ingredients. Cooking fresh meals is a conscious decision to nourish ourselves and others with wholesome ingredients, rather than relying on prepared food. When I choose to cook using seasonal ingredients instead of assembling a meal from the contents of boxes and jars, I become acquainted with those ingredients, and cooking becomes a social endeavor, a way for people I care about to gather together and share a freshly prepared meal. Taking time to cook fresh meals at home is an investment in a way of life. When I cook, I give myself permission to slow down and say no to the busyness of the world. Even though the world around me doesn’t slow down, I do as I chop, listen to the radio, and cook. As a result, my children slow down too, and as we move through at least a part of the day a bit more slowly, it heightens our awareness of one another and the time we spend together. This book, then, is about cooking in a Kentucky kitchen, in sync with the seasons and in sync with those we feed. This book is a by-product of what I do almost every day and have done for more than twenty-three years with the help and support of my husband Warren. In our kitchen we cook meals for our children and their friends, our friends, our families, ailing friends, and even strangers in need of food. Sometimes we invite friends over for dinner, but many times we eat alone, just the five of us. Rarely a day goes by that we don’t cook something from scratch in our kitchen. This day-in, day-out cooking is not steeped in television fanfare, gourmet recipes, or exotic ingredients. Nor do I want it to be. I plan meals, shop for ingredients, and cook because of my love for the people I cook for, my esteem for the craft of cooking, and my profound regard for Kentucky’s traditions, ingredients, seasons, recipes, and people. Each chapter in the book is based on one calendar month. This contemporary format offers a year-round approach to cooking. Each chapter is stocked with recipes that use cooking methods, traditional Kentucky ingredients, and locally produced foods appropriate to the season. The Kitchen Toolbox, which follows the month-bymonth chapters, offers suggestions for stocking a pantry, as well as tips about various cooking methods and ingredients used in the recipes. Throughout the book I mention websites and other sources of information, ingredients, and supplies; these resources are listed in the Publications, Resources, and Festivals section. Different foods are available at different times of the year, and some cooking methods are preferred over

2  the kentucky fresh cookbook

others, depending on the temperature outside. To facilitate cooking and eating more in sync with the Kentucky seasons, a chart at the end of the book shows when fresh fruits, vegetables, and herbs are in season in Kentucky. Also provided is a section containing menus for entertaining, special occasions, or family suppers using the recipes in the monthly chapters. All this should go a long way toward helping Kentucky cooks feel more at home in their kitchens and realize that they don’t need unusual ingredients or equipment to cook fresh food at home. I believe that any act of cooking done with love and care has the potential to transform the simplest ingredients into a memorable meal. I also believe that a shared meal has the potential to transform those who partake in it, in both tangible and intangible ways. Sharing fresh, home-cooked meals can make Kentucky a healthier, more welcoming, and more hospitable place, if you can imagine such a thing.

Kentucky-Grown and -Produced Food Kentucky has a stunning array of seasons—the complete cycle of winter, spring, summer, and fall. As a result, we enjoy a mix of food grown in each season, except for the wintertime. When I started paying more attention to what’s seasonally available in Kentucky, I began to fully appreciate the seasons—fall tastes different from summer, which tastes different from spring. I also realized what wintertime meant to our pioneer ancestors. With snow, ice, and freezing temperatures, not much grows outside. If Kentuckians ate only locally grown food, we wouldn’t be enjoying olive oil, sugar, coffee, pineapples, oranges, lemons, bananas, avocados, kiwi fruit, or rice. Yet even the pioneers who lived off the land bought and traded ingredients they were unable to grow or produce themselves. Today, mass production, global transportation, and relentless food marketing has introduced such a variety of ingredients into our kitchens that local and seasonal awareness, much less eating in tune with the seasons, has become almost unheard of, and it’s certainly not necessary. It’s not uncommon to walk into a supermarket and find fresh berries and melons in January, asparagus in December, and year-old apples in the summertime. Sadly, this produce is not from Kentucky and, more often, not even from the United States. As it stands right now, most Kentuckians can eat any food year-round, making our food supply homogeneous and allowing all of us to eat the same things, no matter where we live or what the season.

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In her book Animal, Vegetable, Miracle: A Year of Food Life, Kentucky native Barbara Kingsolver describes a twelve-month journey during which she and her family “documented our year of procuring as much of our food as possible from neighboring farms and our own backyard.” I read this book in the summer of 2007 while lounging by a lake in Michigan and shared Kingsolver’s excitement in supplying her own food and her sense of dread at the bareness of the pantry in the wintertime. I enjoyed the book for what it suggests—that we all pay more attention to where our food comes from and make an effort to get our food from where we live. What I struggled with, though, is how to do what Kingsolver did every day when I have a life outside of growing and procuring food, outside of canning and preserving my own food, and outside of raising my own chickens, pigs, and sheep—that is, outside of an agrarian lifestyle. I cook, but by and large, I depend on a supermarket to sell me at least 50 percent of what I cook. What I have settled on is a compromise, a sensible balance between local eating in the strictest sense of the word and full reliance on processed food for my meals. This is a more realistic approach, at least for me. So I not only cook fresh meals but also buy as much locally grown and produced food as I can find, afford, and stomach. There are several reasons I support eating food grown and produced in Kentucky. First, it is good for Kentucky and good for local businesses. Thriving businesses make our communities vibrant. For this reason alone, it makes sense to buy as many local ingredients and as much fresh produce as possible. Second, food that’s grown in Kentucky travels a shorter distance to our plates, and this helps preserve its flavor. I can almost guarantee that fresh produce purchased from a farmer who picked it this morning will taste better than produce that has been sitting in the display case at the supermarket for several days and in a produce warehouse prior to that. When I cook with fresh Kentucky-grown or -produced ingredients, I find they need very little doctoring up. In fact, these fresh ingredients can magically turn one into a better cook. So from a taste perspective, eating locally grown food makes sense. Third, eating locally grown and produced food keeps us in touch with Kentucky’s seasons. We participate more fully in our food and our cooking when we realize that strawberries are not a winter fruit and that pumpkin isn’t available, fresh from Kentucky, around Derby Day. If we take the time to enjoy the seasons and anticipate the foods they provide, we’ll have fewer unrealistic expectations about year-round food availability. One of the most important reasons to buy locally grown and produced food, however, is relationships—relationships with the people who grow and produce the food, and relationships with the people we cook for. These relationships make us better at communicating and better at negotiating, and when we talk to one another about

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our food, about our days, and about our lives, our communities grow stronger. Buying local food and cooking fresh ingredients at home allows us to get back in touch with the people we care about the most. In the end, eating locally means shopping differently for ingredients and cooking fresh meals with those ingredients. To me, local eating is about the benefits to our state’s economy, the food’s taste, seasonal changes, and our relationships. Local eating is not a virtue to be extolled at all times and at all costs; nor should we look down on others who eat less locally than we do. We’re all in this together, and every bit of Kentucky-grown or -produced food we buy or cook is a good thing.

Buying Tips To eat more locally and seasonally, we need to consider not only fresh fruits and vegetables but also meat, dairy products, eggs, and baked goods. Local and seasonal go together. They are like two sides of the same coin. Most often, I prefer local and seasonal over organic when faced with a choice. Although organic practices are common among small farmers and food producers, buying local doesn’t mean that the food is organic. The best way to find out about the growing practices of a farmer is to talk that person and develop a relationship with him or her. Don’t expect to make changes overnight. Start slowly, and make decisions based on your food budget and local availability. Enjoy every aspect of eating more locally and seasonally. Enjoy the people, the relationships, the flavor, the quality, and, best of all, your role in supporting local and seasonal food producers. You could even become a local food producer yourself by planting a garden or at least growing some herbs and tomato plants on the patio. Our connection to food grows when we are connected to how food grows. Listed below are some sources, both online and off, to help you find locally grown and produced food. Be aware that it’s up to producers to register their farms or products with the relevant websites, so not all producers will be listed. For that reason, it’s important to get to know the food producers and farmers in your area and then help spread the word about their products. • Visit the Local Harvest website to search for Kentucky farmers’ markets, Kentucky family farms, and other sources of seasonal Kentucky food. • Find locations of “u-pick” farms at the Pick Your Own website.

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• Search the Eat Wild website for sources of Kentucky pasture-raised poultry, beef, buffalo (or bison), pork, and other edibles. • Visit the Kentucky Proud website to narrow your search by county and product category. And look for the Kentucky Proud sticker or shelf tag—the official trademark of the Kentucky Department of Agriculture designating Kentucky-produced food from blackberry jam to country ham—on products at grocery stores, farmers’ markets, and roadside stands. But note that although a barbecue sauce might be Kentucky Proud, this doesn’t necessarily mean that all its ingredients (ketchup, sugar, onions, etc.) were grown or produced in Kentucky; it only guarantees that the sauce was made in Kentucky, underscoring the importance of talking to the producer to find out the food’s origins. • Use the Kentucky Farm Bureau brochure and website. The bureau certifies roadside markets, including greenhouses, Christmas tree farms, vineyards, wineries, and meat and cheese farm markets. • Shop locally. Markets that support local growers and sell Kentucky products, local baked goods, pasture-raised poultry and beef, Kentucky cheese, and Kentucky Proud products are numerous in our communities. Talk to the owners and “shop with your feet.” • Search the good old-fashioned Yellow Pages for foods or farms. If you find something local sold at a local market, jot down the contact information and make a few phone calls. Then help spread the word. • Join a local chapter of Slow Food USA, a group dedicated to the pleasure of food and committed to community and the environment. • Subscribe to or pick up copies of EdibleLouisville or EdibleOhioValley. These locally produced magazines celebrate the artisans, growers, and producers of our region who bring local food to our plates and our tables.

Produce Just as the garden changes with the seasons, so should produce purchases. Learn when certain vegetables and fruits are in season in Kentucky, and buy them as they become available. Fresh produce cooked and eaten in its peak season tastes superior to food grown in hothouses or other conditions intended to mimic the outdoor season. To help guide your purchases, see the seasonal produce availability chart at the end of the book.

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Reevaluate your relationship with produce not grown in Kentucky—avocados, bananas, grapefruit, clementines, oranges, pineapples, kiwi, lemons, limes, mangoes, and cranberries, to name a few. Someone who eats only local food, called a locavore, might eliminate these foods, but that’s an individual decision; there is no right or wrong answer. I do encourage buying these products during their natural growing seasons from a state or region as close to Kentucky as possible (for reasons of transportation). Join a community-supported agriculture (CSA) program. CSA involves buying a share in a farm’s harvest for a season, and in return, the shareholder is entitled to part of the harvest on a regular basis, typically weekly, picked up at a designated location. This shared harvest philosophy allows subscribers to embark on an adventure of sorts, as the ups and downs of food production are experienced and enjoyed. Some shareholders trade work on the farm (rather than cash) for part of the harvest, and some CSA programs also include eggs, meat, or poultry in addition to produce, depending on the farm. CSA boosts local agriculture and secures an income stream for the farmer running a CSA program. The Kentucky Department of Agriculture maintains a list of CSA participants, and the Local Harvest website can be searched as well. Preserve produce for use in the winter. An excellent place to learn about canning and other methods of preserving food is the Kentucky Cooperative Extension Service; its extension agents offer classes on home food preservation. Freezing is one of the easiest methods of food preservation. The National Center for Home Food Preservation has valuable information about freezing and other methods, as does the Pick Your Own website. Set a goal of preserving a different fruit or vegetable every week. Freeze a batch of green beans, make some Homemade Strawberry Freezer Jam (page 150), cook and can some of Margaret’s Chili Sauce (page 219), or make a batch of Bread and Butter Freezer Pickles (page 218). There is nothing more rewarding than opening a jar of homemade jam in the middle of winter or cooking frozen green beans from the garden for the Christmas buffet. At the end of summer, fill a “root cellar” with long-storing vegetables and fruits such as apples, potatoes, winter squash, onions, turnips, carrots, and garlic. Some root vegetables can even be stored in a heavily mulched garden. Check with a local county extension office or the National Garden Association for helpful information about root cellars.

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Meat and Poultry Kentucky is the second-largest beef-producing state east of the Mississippi and the eighth largest beef-producing state in the nation. Beef and dairy cattle were brought to Kentucky from Britain, and although our pioneer ancestors might have kept cows for milk, they didn’t rely on them for meat, for two reasons. First, many families had only one cow, and they didn’t want to slaughter it for beef and lose the dairy products it provided. Second, before the advent of modern refrigeration and freezing methods, one cow was too large for one Kentucky family to eat on its own. Typically, when a cow was slaughtered it was split among several families and then preserved or stored. Some Kentucky beef is grass fed, also called pastured or pasture-raised beef. These cows are allowed to graze and eat grass, clover, and rye, as opposed to cows raised on feedlots, where they are fed corn and other grains. Grass-fed beef is raised more like nature intended cows to be raised, and the resulting meat is higher in some fatty acids and vitamins and lower in fat than feedlot-raised beef. Grass- or pasture-raised beef is also likely to be produced without antibiotics and growth hormones. Through the Kentucky Proud program, steaks and other cuts of beef from Kentucky cattle are available in retail markets. Remke Markets in Northern Kentucky and Critchfield Market in Lexington both sell Kentucky Proud beef. (Incidentally, the Kentucky Proud label doesn’t guarantee the beef is natural, organic, or hormone free.) If possible, buy a side of beef from a local farmer. Much like buying head-on local shrimp (see page 233), the price of a side of beef refers to the hanging weight price. Double the hanging weight price to arrive at the comparable price per pound. Kentucky beef farmers can often be found at local farmers’ markets, selling their meat among the produce and value-added farmers and food producers. For a bit of fun, visit Kentucky’s Fort Harrod Beef Festival held at the Mercer County Fairgrounds. I like to buy chicken raised without antibiotics or growth hormones and without any saline or flavoring solutions injected into the bird. In Northern Kentucky I buy turkeys from Tewes Poultry Farm or Kremer’s Market, and I can buy pasture-raised chickens from a supermarket in my area. For other pasture-raised poultry farms, visit the Eat Wild website. For more about pork, see page 284.

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Eggs and Dairy Local eggs are plentiful. Depending on locale, even some city-dwelling Kentuckians raise their own chickens for eggs, and farmers often sell eggs as a value-added business. My aunt Eileen raised chickens, so throughout my life I’ve had the good fortune to experience the orange-colored yolks of “country eggs.” Store-bought, factory eggs pale in comparison to the freshness and flavor of farm-fresh eggs. Farmers’ markets often showcase local egg vendors; also, you can visit the Eat Wild website. Kentucky is fortunate to have both small and large dairies. Louis Trauth Dairy, Southern Belle Dairy, Dean Milk, and Flav-O-Rich are larger dairies, and Rebekka Grace is a smaller cooperative dairy. Although buying Trauth milk supports the economy in Northern Kentucky, these milks are often pooled and sold into a co-op that obtains milk from both inside and outside Kentucky. Graeter’s ice cream is hard to beat. It’s made in Cincinnati by a small, Frenchpot process, and with additional locations in Northern Kentucky, Louisville, and Lexington, Graeter’s is a local tradition. Other small-batch producers of gelato and ice cream are springing up across Kentucky as well. Support them and spread the word.

Flour, Cornmeal, and Grains A Central Kentucky treasure is Weisenberger Mill, which produces flour, grains, cornmeal, and grits. Many markets and stores sell Weisenberger products, and they can also be ordered from its website. For bread, shop at local bakeries, but be sure to ask if they make the bread dough themselves. Some bakeries ship in frozen dough from a faraway food plant and then bake it on-site.

Wine Visit one of the wineries or vineyards popping up all over Kentucky and participate in a wine tasting. Some grape varieties are perfectly suited to the Kentucky climate. The Kentucky Vineyard Society’s website offers a search option for vineyards or wineries in specific areas.

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What About Organic? Certified organic food may be free of man-made pesticides and chemicals, but it can still mean big business, as evidenced by the organic cheese puffs made by a large food producer and sold at supermarkets. Being certified organic does not ensure that any food is local or from a small, quaint, family-owned farm, nor does “certified organic” imply nutritious. Everything from apples to fruit-ring cereal is available in organic form, making it easy to misconstrue organic food as healthy food. In reality, this is not the case. A lot of organic foods on the market are highly processed and tightly packaged and have traveled a long way to reach the dinner plate. In addition, eating all organic food can be expensive, and it does not promote Kentucky farmers or Kentucky food producers or take advantage of the seasons of the Kentucky garden and orchard. That being said, I may buy organic produce from the supermarket if something locally grown or in season isn’t available. The main reason is to reduce my exposure to pesticides and to support more eco-friendly agricultural practices. But sometimes organically raised produce isn’t available, or the cost is prohibitive. That’s why I prefer to feed my family with food grown and produced in Kentucky, as much as possible. I’ve found that the growing practices of many local farmers are often close to organically certifiable practices, but either the farmers are unable or unwilling to pay for the U.S. Department of Agriculture organic designation or they haven’t passed the time frame for eliminating synthetic fertilizers from their fields.

The Organic Dirty Dozen The Environmental Working Group’s Shopper’s Guide to Pesticides ranks forty-seven commercially raised fruits and vegetables according to the amount of pesticide residue after rinsing or peeling. The following twelve conventionally raised supermarket fruits and vegetables—dubbed the “Organic Dirty Dozen”—are the most contaminated with pesticides: peaches, strawberries, apples, blueberries, nectarines, sweet bell peppers, spinach, cherries, kale, collard greens, potatoes, and grapes. When I buy any of these fruits and vegetables from a supermarket, I buy organic if it is available.

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The Clean Fifteen The following fruits and vegetables—dubbed the “Clean Fifteen”—had the least pesticide residue: onions, avocados, eggplant, sweet corn, pineapples, mangoes, sweet peas, asparagus, kiwi fruit, cabbage, cantaloupes, watermelons, grapefruit, sweet potatoes, and honeydew melons. For these vegetables, buying organic is not as important if the concern is strictly pesticide residue.

Using the Recipes Not all the ingredients in this book are fresh in the strictest sense of the word. I use canned ingredients, frozen fruits and vegetables, and even soda pop in a few savory and sweet dishes. If a fresh, local version of an ingredient isn’t available, consider substituting a frozen or canned counterpart. The goal is fresh, home-cooked food, but not always as a result of using only fresh ingredients. Every time I prepare a new recipe, I have to make my own judgments. That’s the nature of cooking. The more experienced one gets at cooking, the easier these judgments become. Although I have written, tested, and tweaked the recipes in this book, your results will depend on how hot your oven heats, how full you fill your skillet, and a multitude of other factors. For this reason, I give clues about doneness in most recipes. I may recommend baking a cake for 35 minutes, but if the cake looks and smells like it’s fully baked at 30 minutes, check it using the applicable test for doneness and proceed accordingly. Providing recipes in a book like this one is loaded with apprehension on my part because I want everyone to be a successful cook. I want this to be a book that is read, used, and enjoyed. I suggest reading a recipe in its entirety before embarking on the cooking process. Chop and measure ingredients first so everything is ready before the cooking begins. Taste the food as the recipe proceeds. Most recipes recommend a specific quantity of salt and pepper, but in the end, food should be salted and spiced to suit one’s own taste and personal preference, which may not match mine. To me, one difference between an average cook and a good cook is the latter’s attention to the details of selecting ingredients and seasoning food. That said, fresh herbs, fresh citrus juice, fresh garlic, freshly ground spices, and the judicious use of

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salt all go a long way in making a good cook. With any ingredient, I recommend buying the highest quality one can afford. Fresh ingredients that are grown, transported, and stored with care need little embellishment to produce delicious results. To ensure success with the recipes in this book, I offer the following suggestions: Buttermilk: I use a fair amount of buttermilk in my cooking. Unless otherwise noted, I use low-fat (cultured) buttermilk. If buttermilk is not available, use buttermilk powder or homemade buttermilk. To make homemade buttermilk, see page 50. Capers: The small, unopened buds of a caper bush, capers vary from the size of a small green pea to that of a large olive. They are sold in supermarkets near the pickles, olives, or chutneys. For the recipes in this book, I use the smallest size of caper, also known as nonpareil. Packed in brine, they add a sharp, salty flavor to salads, pasta dishes, and sauces. Flour: Unless otherwise specified, I use unbleached all-purpose flour. To measure the flour, stir it in the bag or container, spoon the flour into a dry measuring cup, and level off the flour with the straight edge of a knife. Whole wheat flour is specified in some recipes, and 100 percent whole wheat flour is readily available in supermarkets. A newer blend called white whole wheat flour contains all the whole-grain goodness but lacks the heaviness often found in baked goods made with traditional whole wheat flour. Garlic: Fresh, peeled cloves of garlic impart a wonderful flavor to food, but some recipes call for high-quality garlic powder. One-eighth teaspoon garlic powder equals the power of about one small clove of garlic. Pressing garlic is a fast way to use fresh garlic and is interchangeable with mincing (minced garlic is used frequently in the recipes). Herbs: From late March through November, when fresh herbs are in season, I use fresh as much as possible. During the wintertime (December through late March), I use high-quality dried herbs, in one-third less the quantity of fresh, in soups, stews, and chilis and on roasted meats and vegetables. I crush the dry herbs between the palms of my hands as I add them to the food to help release their essential aromas and oils. If I haven’t dried my own herbs, I buy them from Penzey’s or at the supermarket in small quantities that I can use in about six months. Large bottles of dried herbs aren’t always the best deal because the essential oils dissipate over time. Lemon juice: There’s no doubt that fresh lemon juice and fresh lemon zest are my choices for all recipes. I store a few lemons in the refrigerator so I have them on hand. They are one simple ingredient with unlimited potential to brighten up a pot of soup, a pie filling, or homemade vinaigrette.

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Milk: I use skim milk in recipes, unless otherwise noted. Olive oil: I buy a good-quality extra-virgin olive oil. General cooking is not the place for expensive or boutique olive oils. Save those for fresh salads or bread dipping. Pasta: I use a variety of dry pasta shapes in both traditional and whole-grain styles. Of course, whole-grain pasta offers more of a nutritional punch, but any pasta will work, including those based on grains other than wheat. Pepper: Freshly ground black pepper is my first choice for all recipes. Season to taste, as everyone has a different tolerance for black pepper. Salt: When testing these recipes, I used iodized table salt (the iodine provides an important nutrient) or fine-grained sea salt. Kosher salt, with its larger crystal size, is a better choice in some recipes. Tomato paste: Despite their small size, cans of prepared tomato paste always seem to be too big. When a recipe calls for a tablespoon of tomato paste, one is faced with the challenge of how to store what’s left over. One solution is to portion the tomato paste by tablespoon onto a baking sheet and freeze it; the frozen lumps can be stored in a zip-top bag. Or you can buy a squeezable tube of tomato paste and keep it in the refrigerator, ready to dispense a small portion at a time.

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January In the end, all journeys are spiritual. So go off the main road. Be givers of hospitality and gracious takers of it too. Accept the serendipitous moments of life because, when all is said and done, you may find out that they were not serendipitous at all. And know that faith is as real as bread broken among friends.—alton brown

The start of the new year is like a clean slate, the beginning of twelve months of new opportunities in the kitchen. The first week in January is a time to unwind and relax after the holidays. Then, at the end of the month, I often wonder how thirty-one days could have passed so quickly. January is the first full month of winter, wrapped in days of expanding light. While the low sun skirts the snow- or frost-covered landscape, January days are bright, cold, and brilliant. Nights remain dark and long, and the January full moon is breathtaking when snow blankets my backyard. All sounds are muted, the air is quiet, and everything else is so still. In my kitchen, winter’s daytime sun blares through the south-facing windows, revealing every fingerprint and smudge on my cabinet and refrigerator doors. Outside the back door my herbs and raised garden bed are covered with snow. Above the ground, no plants are alive. If my family ate what’s seasonal in January, snowballs and icicles would grace the menu. So what’s a cook to do? Despite the lack of growth in the garden, my kitchen doesn’t slow down in January. I shop at the local supermarket and continue to cook all month long. Until the 1950s, most Kentuckians didn’t have

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the luxury of large supermarkets, so cooks worked diligently in late summer and fall to preserve meats, fruits, vegetables, and even herbs for cooking during the winter. Home-canned, root-cellared, smoked, salted, and dried foods created the bulk of their meals. In the current food landscape, supermarkets eliminate the uncertainty of whether we have stored enough food to make it through the winter. Modern methods of food processing and transportation have all but eliminated the need to preserve food. Many still do, but today, food preservation is a choice, not a necessity. Despite the wide availability of produce that knows no season, such as January strawberries and November asparagus, I try to create a wintertime kitchen that follows a different rhythm and not give in to the temptations of continuously available produce shipped in from around the world. I take advantage of relatively nearby growers in Florida, California, and Texas and enjoy the citrus fruits that these warm climates are capable of producing. I utilize frozen and canned ingredients when necessary, and I selectively buy fresh produce such as broccoli, winter squash, potatoes, parsley, lemons, onions, garlic, and even lettuce for salad. But in an effort to reduce the amount of miles my fresh produce travels, I buy food that comes from as close to Kentucky as possible. Another way to celebrate wintertime is to enjoy winter-worthy cooking methods such as baking, braising, stewing, and roasting. It’s cold outside, and our homes are sealed off to the cold. Heating up the kitchen is a welcome activity, and the aromas from a home-cooked meal call family and friends to the dinner table. I light the fireplace and tend the oven during the month of January. It’s a time to settle in and enjoy January for what it is— an opportunity to have guests over for dinner, and a time to anticipate the gardens, barnyards, and landscapes that will come alive a few months from now. January is a time to gather in the kitchen on a cold winter day and enjoy the bounty of ingredients and the craft of cooking.

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Good Morning Food Fresh muffins are a scrumptious way to start the day. Muffins have the best flavor when they are eaten within a day or two of baking. Baked, cooled muffins travel well, so they are easy to take to work or school; they also freeze well. The batter can be made the night before, kept in the refrigerator overnight, and baked in the morning.

Lemon Blueberry Cornmeal Muffins makes 9 large muffins

This tender muffin showcases two of Kentucky’s favorite ingredients—cornmeal and buttermilk. I fill the muffin cups to the brim to ensure a tall, high-capped muffin. Blueberries are not in season in January,

1 cup low-fat buttermilk ½ cup yellow or white cornmeal 2¼ cups unbleached all-purpose flour 2 teaspoons baking powder 1 teaspoon baking soda ¼ teaspoon salt ½ cup canola oil 1 cup sugar Zest from 1 lemon 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract 2 large eggs 1 cup frozen or fresh blueberries

but frozen blueberries are readily available. In June, I switch to fresh blueberries, and if I have time, I freeze some for later use.

Preheat the oven to 400°F. Spray a 12-cup muffin pan with nonstick cooking spray. Mix together the buttermilk and cornmeal. Set aside. Whisk together the flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt. In another bowl, whisk the oil, sugar, lemon zest, vanilla, and eggs for about 2 minutes, until light in color and fluffy in texture. Blend in the buttermilk and cornmeal mixture. With a silicone spatula, fold in the flour mixture until just blended. Gently fold in the blueberries. Use a large spoon or scoop to fill each muffin cup almost to the brim. Fill any empty muffin cups halfway with water. Bake for 18 to 20 minutes until the muffins are golden brown and they spring back when gently poked with the fingertips. When using frozen blueberries, the muffins take a bit longer to bake because the frozen fruit cools the batter. Let the muffins cool in the pan for 5 minutes and then transfer them to a wire rack to finish cooling.

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Shaker Pumpkin Muffins with Walnuts and Flax Seed

in the 1970s. As a civil engineer,

1¾ cups unbleached all-purpose flour ¼ teaspoon baking powder 1 teaspoon baking soda ¾ teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon cinnamon 2 large eggs 1 cup pumpkin puree 1 cup sugar ½ cup canola oil

he designed roads and bridges

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makes 8 large muffins

This sweet, modernized version of Shaker pumpkin muffins is a snap to mix and bake. My father, Carl P. Kroboth, introduced me and my siblings to Shaker Village (or as we called it, “Shakertown”) back

during the week, but on the weekends he loved to drive us around Kentucky (often on the very roads he designed), exploring historic

⁄ cup water 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract ½ cup chopped walnuts or pecans ½ cup raisins 1⁄3 cup ground flax seed

sites, nature preserves, and state parks. One frequent stop was Shaker Village of Pleasant Hill. Located near Harrodsburg, this restored Shaker village (the largest in the United States) boasts 3,000 acres of farmland and more than thirty restored buildings. Other Shaker-inspired recipes in this book are Shaker Cornsticks (page 292) and Shaker Lemon Pie (page 89).

Preheat the oven to 350­°F. Spray a 12-cup muffin pan with nonstick cooking spray. Whisk together the flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt, and cinnamon. In a separate bowl, whisk together the eggs, pumpkin, sugar, oil, water, and vanilla. Fold the pumpkin mixture into the flour. Stir in the chopped walnuts, raisins, and flax seed. Use a large spoon or scoop to fill each muffin cup almost to the brim. Bake for 20 to 22 minutes, or until the muffins spring back when gently poked with the fingertips. Let them cool in the pan for 5 minutes and then transfer to a wire rack to finish cooling.

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All I Need Is a Kitchen Table A few years ago I hosted a New Year’s Day brunch for my family. In addition to my overwhelming desire to throw a party, I extended the invitation for other reasons: my nieces were in town, and we hadn’t seen them at Christmas; my sister Barbara was leaving for a four-month sabbatical at Oxford; and my sister Theresa had extended her visit to Lexington to help our mother get her house ready to place on the market. Mom had lived in the family home for more than thirty-five years, and back in the days when we were a family of ten, the house had buzzed with activity. Dad had been gone for almost five years, and with the exception of a few nights around Thanksgiving and Christmas, Mom spent most nights alone in the large three-story home. I didn’t think this transition would be easy for Mom, but I hoped the move would allow her to forge ahead without the expense and burden of a large house. The scene at brunch was pretty typical. When my family gets together, we always have a lot of catching up to do, and we usually do so as we sit around the kitchen table. So on that New Year’s Day we sat around my kitchen table, shared a meal, and caught up on the family news: our cousin was having some surgery, our niece was studying abroad in France, and of course, we discussed the odds of the University of Kentucky beating the University of Louisville in basketball. Sometimes my sister Anne multitasks and crochets while she talks, but for the most part, when we’re together we just sit and talk. As Mom was packing up her stuff, getting ready to leave my house, she said, “Well, when I move I guess all I need is a kitchen table. That’s the only place we ever sit.” And, after further reflection, I realized she’s right. An impeccably decorated living room or a roaring fire in the fireplace can’t keep us away from the kitchen table. Over the years, a table has brought our family together for many reasons, and at many locations, to share meals, stories, games, and tears. After Mom moves, no matter where we gather, we’ll continue to make our way to the kitchen table and pick up where we left off. We’ll listen to tales about travel, and we’ll discuss our plans for the upcoming year. It’s inevitable—time marches on. We grow, change, and live our lives. But one place remains—the kitchen table. It patiently waits for us to return and talk about days gone by because our nourishment comes not only from what we eat there but also from those we meet there. running foot  19

Beans I can’t talk about Kentucky ingredients without mentioning beans of every kind—halfrunners, dried beans, shucky beans, baked beans, and soup beans. One variety, the Kentucky Wonder pole bean, even bears the name of the Bluegrass State. Beans appear on the Kentucky dinner table in a variety of forms, and they have done so since long before the pioneers made their way to our region. Similar to corn, beans are hearty and filling. They grow prolifically and love the hot Kentucky sun and soil. Bean plants are not deterred by the rocky Kentucky hillsides. Beans nourish us, add variety to our meals, and, because they dry well, feed us in the wintertime. Beans come in varieties almost too numerous to count. Field or dry beans have a thin, inedible pod; the inner seeds are dried and retain their shape during cooking. Dual-purpose beans have an edible pod and a fleshy inner seed that is eaten fresh or dried. String, green, snap, and French beans are eaten fresh (page 206). Lima beans are most often cooked from the dry state; their creamy sister the butter bean, a cooked-from-fresh inner seed, reigns supreme in Burgoo (page 125) and in Sweet Bourbon Baked Beans (page 183). Soup beans are the signature dish of the mountainous regions of Kentucky. In Appalachia, pinto beans are the bean of choice—long-simmered with a piece of pork and served with a slice of hot cornbread, diced or sliced onions, and sometimes a dollop of sweet pickle relish. Seasoned, cooked dried beans served over rice are popular in the South, especially along the Louisiana and South Carolina coasts. And who can forget bowls of Hoppin’ John on New Year’s Day, similar to Spicy Stewed Black-Eyed Peas and Kale (page 31)? For more bean and rice dishes, see page 55. Fresh whole green beans, often paired with fresh herbs or new potatoes, are discussed in more detail in the chapter on July, when they are prolific and in season. In Florence, the annual Bean Bash is held at Turfway Park every October. Started in the summer of 1974 by Kentucky Representative Bill McBee, the Bean Bash was initially a political fund-raiser, as many food-centric events are. The Bean Bash menu includes bean soup, tomatoes, slaw, and cornbread. The famous Bean Supper and Drama in Boyle County draws record crowds every year. Dedicated volunteers start cooking the beans early in the morning, and the smell wafts around the adjacent Forkland Heritage Festival and Revue, where visitors can sit back, relax, watch the performance, and enjoy beans, cornbread, and an assortment of pies.

Winter Fireside Dinners Wintertime cooking methods consist of braising, stewing, and roasting. The warmth they add to the home and kitchen insulates everyone from the cold, windy nights of January. Following are three full dinner menus to enjoy with friends.

menu Winter Chopped Salad Slow-Roasted Pork Shoulder Fresh Parsley Sauce Yellow Basmati Rice Pilaf Warm Bread Pudding with Kentucky Bourbon Sauce

january  21

Winter Chopped Salad makes 12 servings

Inspired by a recipe from The Oregonian, this salad contains winter fruits, hearty greens, and nuts.

salad 5 ounces mixed salad greens or baby spinach (about 5 cups) 1 head radicchio 2 medium Gala or Golden Delicious apples, cored and cut into small pieces 1 cup dried cranberries ½ cup chopped pecans, toasted ½ cup crumbled soft goat cheese

dressing 3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice 1 tablespoon coarse-grain mustard 1 tablespoon Kentucky honey 6 tablespoons olive oil ¼ teaspoon salt ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper With a large knife, chop the salad greens or spinach and the radicchio, and place them on a large salad platter or in a large, shallow salad bowl. For the dressing, whisk together the lemon juice, mustard, honey, oil, salt, and pepper. Drizzle half the dressing on the greens and toss. Top with the chopped apple, cranberries, pecans, and goat cheese. Drizzle with the remaining dressing. Season to taste with black pepper.

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Slow-Roasted Pork Shoulder makes about 12 servings

Roasted pork shoulder is a staple in many countries from Mexico to Venezuela, and pork is, of course, a Kentucky favorite. Ideal for feeding a crowd, this simple, inexpensive entrée requires little preparation,

One 5-pound bone-in pork shoulder 5 cloves garlic, peeled 1 large onion, peeled and quartered ¼ cup red wine vinegar 3 tablespoons canola oil 1 tablespoon dried oregano 2 teaspoons chili powder 1 tablespoon sugar 1 tablespoon kosher salt 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

and leftovers are almost always guaranteed for use in soup, quesadillas, or pulled pork sandwiches. Pork shoulder is hard to overcook, so give it plenty of time. Instead of Yellow Basmati Rice Pilaf, this pork roast can also be served with Smoky Black Beans with Sweet Potatoes (page 56). Another favorite recipe for pork shoulder is Ale-8 One Slow Cooker Pork

Place a rack in a roasting pan and spray with nonstick cooking spray. Place the pork on the rack, fat side up. In a blender, combine the garlic, onion, vinegar, oil, oregano, chili powder, sugar, salt, and pepper. Blend until smooth. Use a small knife to make a crisscross pattern on top of the pork, and make several slits in the meat. Rub the garlic mixture over the pork, and poke some of it into the slits. Refrigerate for at least 2 hours or up to 12 hours before roasting. Preheat the oven to 300°F. Place the pork in the oven and slowly roast for 4 to 4 ½ hours, or until fork tender. Let the meat cool enough to slice it or pull it off the bone. Serve warm.

Barbecue (page 175).

january  23

Fresh Parsley Sauce makes about 2 cups

I learned how to make parsley sauce from my friend Ethan Becker. Similar to a South American chimchurri sauce, this sauce

1 large bunch parsley 1 fresh jalapeno pepper, halved and seeded 1 clove garlic, roughly chopped ½ cup olive oil ¼ cup balsamic vinegar ½ teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

pairs well with any roasted or grilled meat—beef, lamb, pork, or chicken. To prevent the oils in the jalapeno from burning the skin while seeding and chopping the peppers, wear a pair of thin latex or kitchen gloves.

Chop the woody or tough parts of the stem off the parsley and place the leaves in a food processor bowl with the metal blade. Add the jalapeno, garlic, oil, vinegar, salt, and pepper. Process for 10 seconds and scrape down the sides of the bowl. Process again until smooth, adding more olive oil if needed to achieve the consistency of applesauce. Store covered until ready to serve (up to 24 hours).

Yellow Basmati Rice Pilaf makes 3 cups rice, about 6 servings

Basmati rice has an enchanting, subtle fragrance, and due to its long-grain texture, it makes a fluffy side dish. Any variety of

1 tablespoon canola oil ½ small onion, finely chopped (about ¼ cup) 1 cup basmati rice ½ teaspoon ground coriander ½ teaspoon sweet paprika ½ teaspoon turmeric ¼ teaspoon salt 2 cups water

long-grain white rice can be substituted for the basmati.

In a saucepan, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the onion and cook for about 5 minutes, until golden. Stir in the rice, coriander, paprika, turmeric, and salt and toast the rice and spices for about 1 minute, until fragrant. Add the water and bring to a boil. Stir, cover, reduce the heat to low, and cook for 15 minutes. Turn off the heat and let sit for 10 minutes. Fluff with a fork before serving.

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Warm Bread Pudding with Kentucky Bourbon Sauce makes about

pudding

12 servings

One 12-ounce loaf French bread 4 cups whole milk 3 large eggs 1 cup sugar 2 tablespoons Kentucky bourbon or pure vanilla extract 1 cup raisins, optional

Born of thrift, bread pudding is the creation of inspired cooks reluctant to throw away stale bread. Any firm loaf of day-old French

bourbon sauce

bread makes a good

½ cup (1 stick) butter 1 cup powdered sugar 1 large egg, well beaten 2 tablespoons Kentucky bourbon (or more to taste)

pudding.

For the pudding, preheat the oven to 350°­F. Bring a saucepan of water to a boil for the water bath. Spray a 13×9×2-inch baking dish with nonstick cooking spray. Break the bread into four or more pieces, and place in a large bowl. Pour the milk over the bread and mash together until the bread is saturated and mixed with the milk. Stir in the eggs, sugar, bourbon, and raisins. Pour the pudding into the prepared baking dish. Place the baking dish in a large, shallow roasting pan, and place the roasting pan on the middle oven rack. Pour the boiling water into the roasting pan, around the baking dish, about halfway up the sides. Carefully push the rack into the oven and bake for about 45 minutes, or until the pudding is very firm. Carefully remove the dish of pudding from the water, and place it on a rack. (Don’t try to remove the roasting pan filled with hot water until it has cooled.) Meanwhile, for the sauce, melt the butter in a double boiler over boiling water, and stir in the sugar until well dissolved. Add the egg, whipping very fast with a whisk so the egg won’t curdle. When very smooth, remove from the heat. Stir in the bourbon. Keep the sauce warm until ready to serve. Do not allow the sauce to get too hot, or the eggs will scramble. When ready to serve, cut the pudding into cubes and place in individual serving dishes. Top with warm bourbon sauce.

january  25

How to Boil (Poach) a Whole Chicken Boiling, poaching, or just plain old cooking a chicken is an economical way to obtain fresh homemade chicken broth and cooked chicken for salads, soups, dumplings, or chicken pie. The process fills the air in my kitchen with a glorious aroma. Most chickens yield about 1 cup of cooked chicken per pound: for example, a 4-pound chicken yields about 4 cups of cooked chicken meat. I strain the broth into 1-quart glass jars and store it in the refrigerator. It can also be frozen in freezer-safe, 2-cup containers. One 3½- to 4-pound split or whole chicken or chicken pieces 1 onion, roughly chopped 2 ribs celery, roughly chopped 2 cloves garlic, smashed 5 peppercorns 2 bay leaves 10 to 12 cups water Place the chicken in a Dutch oven or soup pot. Add onion, celery, garlic, peppercorns, and bay leaves. Pour in enough water to cover the chicken by 1 inch. Turn the heat to medium, and bring the chicken to a gentle boil. Spoon off any foam that forms on top of the broth. Reduce to a simmer and cook for about 1 hour, or until the chicken is falling off the bone. Remove the chicken to a platter to cool. Continue to simmer the broth for 30 minutes to enhance the flavor. Strain the broth and pull the meat off the bones. Refrigerate both until needed.

menu Blood Orange Ambrosia Chicken Pie Vanilla Bourbon Cup Custards

Blood Orange Ambrosia makes 8 servings

Winter begs for fresh fruit, and although none grows in

1 pineapple, cored and cut into chunks 5 seedless blood oranges (white pith removed), cut into chunks 1 cup shredded coconut

Kentucky in January, this twist on a southern favorite takes advantage of the fresh citrus fruit grown in warmer regions of the

Place all the ingredients in a bowl and gently mix. Cover and refrigerate for at least 2 hours before serving.

United States. If blood oranges aren’t available, substitute any seedless navel orange.

january  27

Chicken Pie makes 1 pie

This is a rich dish with terrific homemade appeal. With the buttery crust

crust 1½ cups unbleached all-purpose flour ½ teaspoon salt ¾ cup (1½ sticks) butter, cut into 1-inch slices 3 to 4 tablespoons ice water

and fresh vegetables and parsley in the filling, this pie

filling

is sure to please a crowd.

¼ cup (½ stick) butter 1 medium onion, chopped (about 1 cup) 4 carrots, peeled and diced 2 celery ribs, thinly sliced ½ cup unbleached all-purpose flour ½ teaspoon dried thyme 1½ cups milk 1½ cups reduced-sodium chicken broth ¼ cup dry white wine, optional (one suitable for drinking) 4 cups chopped, cooked chicken ½ cup frozen green peas ¼ cup chopped fresh parsley 1 teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1 large egg For the crust, place the flour, salt, and butter in a food processor with the metal blade. Pulse until the butter is chopped into pea-size pieces. Add 3 tablespoons of the ice water and pulse the processor about 10 times, or just until the dough starts to form a ball. Add the final tablespoon of water if necessary to form the dough. Place the dough onto a piece of plastic wrap, and fold the plastic around the dough to seal it. Press the dough into a disc. Refrigerate for at least 1 hour. For the pie, preheat the oven to 400°F. Spray a 13×9×2inch baking dish with nonstick cooking spray. In a large skillet, melt the butter over medium heat. Add the onion,

28  the kentucky fresh cookbook

carrot, and celery, and cook until softened, about 10 minutes. Add the flour and thyme, and stir until all the flour is absorbed. Stir in the milk, broth, and wine. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat to medium low, and simmer until thickened, about 5 minutes. Add the chicken, peas, parsley, salt, and pepper. Pour the filling into the prepared dish. On a floured surface, roll the dough out to about an 11×15-inch rectangle. Place the dough over the filling, and crimp the edges or press them with a fork. With a thin knife, cut several V-shaped vents in the crust. Mix the egg with about 1 tablespoon of water, and brush the egg wash over the top of the crust. Place the pie on a baking sheet. Bake for 45 minutes, until the crust is golden brown and the filling is bubbly. Chicken Pie is best when served soon after baking. The filling reheats well, but the crust is not as crispy.

Vanilla Bourbon Cup Custards makes 6 servings

My grandmother was known for her homemade boiled custard, which she

1 tablespoon softened butter 6 large egg yolks 6 tablespoons sugar 1 tablespoon Kentucky bourbon 1½ cups heavy cream

made when her children were sick because she believed in the healing power of high-protein eggs. Back then, custard was also an economical dessert, as most Kentucky families had access to eggs and milk, particularly those who lived on farms. Even today, these simple cup custards are an elegant way to end a meal.

Preheat the oven to 275°F. Bring 4 cups water to a boil and set aside. Butter six ½-cup ramekins and set them in a 13×9×by 2-inch glass baking dish. In a medium bowl, whisk the egg yolks until slightly thickened. Add the sugar and bourbon, and whisk until the sugar is dissolved. Mix in the cream until well blended. Pour the mixture into the prepared ramekins. Set the baking dish on the middle oven rack. Pour enough boiling water into the baking dish to reach halfway up the sides of the ramekins. Bake uncovered until the custard is barely set, about 45 minutes. Serve warm, or refrigerate until served.

january  29

menu Winter Citrus Salad with Arugula Spicy Stewed Black-Eyed Peas and Kale Yellow Basmati Rice Pilaf (page 24) Warm Bread Pudding with Kentucky Bourbon Sauce (page 25)

Winter Citrus Salad with Arugula makes 6 servings

The peppery bite of arugula pairs well with fresh citrus, making a tasty, refreshing

salad 4 ounces baby arugula (about 4 cups) 6 oranges, peeled and sliced into rounds ½ small red onion, thinly sliced (about ½ cup) 2 ounces Parmesan shreds

wintertime salad. Although citrus fruits don’t grow in

dressing

Kentucky at any time of the

2 tablespoons red wine vinegar 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard 1⁄3 cup olive oil ¼ teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

year, they do enjoy domestic seasonality. Winter is the best time to buy fresh citrus fruits from Florida, California, and Texas.

Arrange the arugula on a large platter or in a large, shallow salad bowl. In another bowl, whisk together the vinegar, mustard, oil, salt, and pepper. Drizzle half the dressing on the greens and toss. Arrange the orange slices on top of the arugula. Scatter the red onion on top of the oranges. Drizzle with more dressing, and top with Parmesan shreds. Season with additional freshly ground black pepper.

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Spicy Stewed Black-Eyed Peas and Kale makes 12 servings

Beans are considered a source of good luck and prosperity, so it’s not unusual to find a pot of beans on Kentucky stoves in January. My husband’s family cooked a batch of navy beans every New Year’s Day. The earthy flavor of black-eyed peas makes this legume a favorite in our house. This

2 tablespoons olive oil 1 medium onion, chopped (about 1 cup) 2 ribs celery, chopped 2 carrots, peeled and chopped 6 ounces diced ham 4 cloves garlic, minced 1 teaspoon dried thyme 1 bay leaf ½ teaspoon salt ¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper Two 12-ounce bags frozen black-eyed peas (about 5 cups) 3 cups chopped fresh kale 6 cups reduced-sodium chicken broth

recipe was inspired by a recipe I tested for B. Smith’s book B. Cooks SouthernStyle. For a vegetarian version, skip the diced ham. Either way, season to your preferred level of spiciness with cayenne pepper.

In a Dutch oven, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the onion, celery, and carrots and cook until softened, about 5 minutes. Add the ham, garlic, thyme, bay leaf, salt, and cayenne pepper. Cook and stir for 1 minute. Add the black-eyed peas, kale, and broth. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat to low, and simmer, partially covered, for 45 minutes to 1 hour, or until the beans are tender.

january  31

Everyone’s Italian on Pasta Night It might seem unusual to offer recipes for Italian food in a Kentucky cookbook, but in Northern Kentucky, something would be amiss if we didn’t discuss Italian food. In the late 1800s Italian immigrants settled in Newport, particularly in the hilltop section of Newport called Clifton, or Spaghetti Knob. Like the German immigrants in the area, the Italians founded churches, worked at the local mills and tailor shops, opened small businesses, and fought in World Wars I and II. Despite their assimilation into Northern Kentucky life, they kept Italy alive in their homes and through their food. Pompilios Restaurant is an example of the Italian influence in Northern Kentucky. Nestled in the heart of Newport at 600 Washington Street, Pompilios sells made-fromscratch ravioli, lasagna, soups, and sauces, just as it has since 1933, when immigrants John Pompilio and his wife Johanna opened the restaurant. Complete with outdoor bocce courts, and home to Pompilios Bocce League, Pompilios boasts a hand-crafted mahogany bar and the first liquor license issued in Kentucky after the end of Prohibition. For nineteen years Newport has been home to an Italian Festival. Held along Newport’s Riverboat Row between the Taylor-Southgate and L&N bridges, this festival boasts authentic Italian food and music. The Family Photo Booth showcases the history of Newport’s Italian families, and a cooking contest allows local residents to share their love of Italian food.

How to Cook Pasta The secret to cooking pasta is a large pot of boiling water. For each pound of pasta, use at least 1 gallon of water. Add about ½ teaspoon of salt, cover, and bring to a rolling boil. Add the pasta, stir, and bring back to a boil. Stir again to prevent the pasta from sticking together. Allow the pasta to boil for the required time. In general, dry pasta cooks in 9 to 11 minutes, depending on its size and shape. After the pasta is cooked, drain it in a large colander. To proceed with a hot pasta dish, toss the hot pasta with the sauce immediately. If the sauce isn’t going to be added right away, rinse the cooked pasta with warm or hot running water, return it to the pot, and toss it with 1 tablespoon of olive or canola oil. If it isn’t rinsed, the pasta will turn into a “pasta rug.” For a pasta salad or other cold pasta dish, rinse the cooked pasta with cold water to remove the starch and cool the pasta. Pour the pasta into a bowl, and proceed with the recipe as directed.

Mama Maggie’s Italian Meat Sauce makes about 10 servings

I don’t claim to be Italian, but I do know that my homemade meat sauce beats any jarred sauce hands down. I use one of my favorite brands of canned crushed tomatoes, such as Red Gold or Dei Fratelli. For a meatless sauce, 1 pound of sliced,

1 pound ground chuck 2 tablespoons olive oil 6 cloves garlic, chopped ½ cup red wine (one suitable for drinking) 2 tablespoons dried basil 2 teaspoons dried oregano 1 teaspoon dried rosemary 1 teaspoon dried thyme 2 tablespoons sugar 1 teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes Two 28-ounce cans (6 cups) crushed tomatoes

cooked mushrooms can be substituted for the ground chuck, or see the recipe for Spicy Marinara Sauce (page 34). I crush the dried herbs between the palms of my hands while adding them to the sauce to release the essential oils.

In a large skillet, brown the ground chuck over medium heat and cook until the beef is no longer pink. Drain off any moisture or fat from the beef. Stir in the olive oil and garlic. Cook for about 3 minutes to soften the garlic. Add the red wine and let it cook until the wine is reduced, scraping any browned bits off the bottom of the skillet. Add the basil, oregano, rosemary, thyme, sugar, salt, and crushed red pepper flakes. Stir for about 1 minute to combine. Stir in the crushed tomatoes and cook over medium-low heat for at least 20 minutes or up to 1 hour, if time permits.

january  33

Spicy Marinara Sauce makes about 6 cups

My homemade version of a meatless tomato sauce is classic for tossing with hot pasta or surrounding a pan of Homemade Italian Meatballs (page 35). For a chunkier texture, substitute a can of diced tomatoes for

¼ cup olive oil 8 cloves garlic, finely chopped ½ teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes ¼ cup red wine (one suitable for drinking) Two 28-ounce cans (6 cups) crushed tomatoes 3 tablespoons dried basil 1 teaspoon dried thyme 1 tablespoon sugar 1 teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

one can of the crushed.

In a large skillet, heat the oil over medium-low heat. Add the chopped garlic and red pepper flakes and cook, stirring occasionally, for about 2 minutes. Do not allow the garlic to brown. Add the red wine and let it boil to reduce for about 1 minute. Stir in the crushed tomatoes, basil, thyme, sugar, salt, and pepper. Bring to a simmer and cook for about 30 minutes, or until slightly thickened.

34  the kentucky fresh cookbook

Homemade Italian Meatballs makes about 24 meatballs

These meatballs are hard to beat when simmered in Spicy Marinara Sauce (page 34) and served over hot pasta. For a variation, see Buffalo-Style Turkey Meatballs (page 54). I use a #40 scoop to shape the meatballs. This keeps my hands clean and keeps the

1 pound ground chuck or ground turkey ½ cup dried bread crumbs 2 cloves garlic, minced 2 tablespoons olive oil 2 tablespoons red wine (one suitable for drinking) 2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce 1 teaspoon dried basil 1 teaspoon dried thyme 1⁄8 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes ½ teaspoon salt ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper ½ cup finely grated Parmesan or Romano

meatballs a consistent size (about 1½ tablespoons, or ¾ ounce, of meat).

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Spray a baking sheet with nonstick cooking spray. In a bowl, combine all the ingredients without packing the meat too tightly. To test the flavors, shape some of the mixture into a small patty and cook it in a skillet. If it’s seasoned satisfactorily, proceed with shaping the meatballs. Break off golf ball– sized pieces and roll them into balls. Place the meatballs on the prepared baking sheet. Bake for 20 minutes. If desired, drop the cooked meatballs into your favorite sauce and simmer in the sauce for about 15 more minutes.

How to Freeze and Reheat Meatballs To freeze cooked meatballs, let them cool, place them in a single layer on a baking sheet, and freeze for about 1 hour. Store the meatballs in a zip-top freezer bag. To reheat, place the meatballs in a covered saucepan with sauce and bring the sauce to a boil. Cover and cook over low heat for about 20 minutes, stirring occasionally.

january  35

White Bean Soup with Pasta and Kale makes 8 servings

I always find myself tempted to add more pasta to this recipe, but because the pasta swells as it cooks and absorbs much of the broth, it’s important not to use too much.

2 tablespoons olive oil 1 medium onion, chopped (about 1 cup) 4 carrots, peeled and chopped 2 ribs celery, thinly sliced 2 cloves garlic, chopped 1 tablespoon dried basil 1 teaspoon dried thyme ½ teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes ½ teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 3 cups cooked, or two 15-ounce cans, great Northern or navy beans, drained 1½ cups diced fresh tomatoes, or one 15-ounce can diced tomatoes 8 cups reduced-sodium chicken broth ½ cup small-shaped pasta (macaroni, ditalini, stars, or orzo) 4 cups thinly sliced fresh kale ½ cup shredded Parmesan, for garnish Olive oil, for garnish In a Dutch oven, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the onion, carrot, and celery and cook about 8 to 10 minutes, or until softened and golden. Stir in the garlic, basil, thyme, red pepper flakes, salt, and pepper. Cook and stir for about 1 minute to blend the flavors. Add the beans, tomatoes, chicken broth, pasta, and kale. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat to a simmer, and keep stirring every few minutes for about 5 minutes to keep the pasta from sticking to the bottom of the pan. Then partially cover and simmer for 20 minutes. Serve garnished with shredded Parmesan and a drizzle of olive oil.

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Hearty Winter Soups Nothing stirs the soul like a hot bowl of soup when the weather turns cold. Soup warms me up, thaws the chill, and fills the stomachs I cook for. In simple terms, soup is any combination of meat, poultry, vegetables, or fruits cooked in a liquid, typically water. The flavor of the ingredients is extracted into the water, making a broth. After the flavor is sufficiently extracted, the soup ingredients are either blended until smooth, for a pureed soup, or left chunky, so they fit easily on a soup spoon. The critical step when making soup is the first one. If I learned anything from studying French cooking or from cooking Cajun meals, it’s that the flavor of the dish begins with the way the recipe is started. In French cuisine, carrots, onions, and celery are sweated together; this trio of vegetables, called mirepoix, forms the foundation of most French recipes. Cajun cooks begin with the “holy trinity” of green peppers, onions, and celery to form the flavor base for gumbo, jambalaya, and étouffée. Although I don’t have three favorite vegetables that I always use, whenever I make a batch of soup, I begin by building a bold flavor foundation with onions, other vegetables, herbs, spices, and sometimes salt and pepper. Skimping on this step decreases the dish’s flavor. Serve soups with a green salad, crusty bread, and slices of cheese for a Sunday night supper. Bread recipes that pair beautifully with any of the following soups include Herbed Beer Batter Bread (page 240), Cast-Iron Skillet Soda Bread (page 79), Silver Dollar Corncakes (page 295), and Buttermilk Cornbread (page 293). Remember that cooking a large pot of soup requires only a little more time and energy than making a smaller batch. Sometimes I double or triple the recipe and freeze the extra for another meal.

january  37

Lentil Soup with Red Wine and Parsley makes 12 servings

The lentil is a cousin of the bean, and both are part of the legume family. From a cooking perspective, the prime benefit of lentils is they do not require soaking before cooking, and they cook relatively quickly. This recipe is adapted from an old favorite Jane Brody recipe.

2 tablespoons olive oil 1 large onion, chopped (about 2 cups) 4 carrots, peeled and grated 1½ teaspoons dried thyme 1 teaspoon dried oregano One 28-ounce can diced tomatoes, with the juice 1 tablespoon tomato paste 8 cups reduced-sodium chicken or vegetable broth 4 cups water 2½ cups brown lentils (about 1 pound), rinsed and picked over 1 teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper ¾ cup dry red wine (one suitable for drinking) ½ cup chopped fresh parsley In a Dutch oven, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the onion, carrot, thyme, and oregano. Cook for about 10 minutes, until softened. Add the tomatoes (and their juice), tomato paste, broth, water, and lentils. Bring the soup to a boil, reduce the heat, cover the pot, and simmer for about 1 hour, or until the lentils are tender. Add the salt, pepper, wine, and parsley and simmer uncovered for 15 more minutes.

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Potato Soup with White Cheddar and Ale makes 8 servings

This is a cheesy but not overly thick soup, ripe with the flavor and hue of ale. The secret to adding cheese to potato soup is to first cook the potatoes, then add a cheese-infused sauce to the soup.

4 tablespoons (½ stick) butter, divided 1 large onion, chopped (about 2 cups) 2 ribs celery, chopped 4 pounds red- or yellow-skinned all-purpose potatoes, scrubbed ¾ cup (6 ounces) ale, such as Kentucky Ale 4 cups reduced-sodium chicken or vegetable broth 1 teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 2 tablespoons unbleached all-purpose flour 2 cups milk 8 ounces (2 cups) grated white or yellow Cheddar Fresh chopped parsley for garnish, optional Crisp cooked bacon for garnish, optional In a large soup pot or Dutch oven, melt 2 tablespoons butter over medium heat. Stir in onion and celery and cook over medium heat for about 5 minutes, until softened. Meanwhile, cut the potatoes into 1-inch chunks. When the onion and celery are softened, stir in the potatoes, ale, broth, salt, and pepper. Bring to a boil. Lower the heat, cover, and simmer for about 30 minutes, or until the potatoes are tender.   Meanwhile, in a saucepan, melt the remaining 2 tablespoons butter. Whisk in the flour until smooth. Stir in the milk and whisk until smooth and thickened. Turn off the heat and stir in the cheese until melted. When the potatoes are cooked, stir the cheese sauce into the soup, and keep it warm over a very low heat. Serve the soup hot, garnished with parsley and bacon if desired.

january  39

Fresh Salmon Chowder makes about 8 servings

1 tablespoon olive oil 1 medium onion, chopped (about 1 cup) 4 large carrots, peeled and chopped 2 ribs celery, chopped 1 pound red-skinned potatoes, cubed 1½ cups fresh, frozen, or canned white corn kernels 3 cups milk 3 cups reduced-sodium chicken broth 1 pound fresh skinless salmon, cut into chunks 1 tablespoon fresh chopped dill weed or 1 teaspoon dried ½ teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper In a Dutch oven or soup pot, heat the oil over medium-high heat. Stir in the onion, carrots, and celery and allow to cook for about 10 minutes, or until softened. Stir in the potatoes and corn and cook while stirring for about 2 minutes. Stir in the milk and broth. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat, cover, and cook over medium-low heat for about 15 minutes, or until the potatoes are tender when pierced with a fork. Add the salmon and cook over medium-low heat for about 5 minutes, until the salmon is no longer translucent. Do not allow the soup to boil. Stir in the dill and season to taste with salt and pepper.

How to Soak Dried Beans Before cooking dried beans, they first need to be soaked. There are two options for soaking: a quick soak or an overnight soak. To do either, first rinse and sort through the beans, discarding any shriveled ones and any pieces of rock or dirt. Place the beans in a large soup pot or Dutch oven. Cover with at least 2 inches of water. To soak overnight, cover the pot and let the beans stand in the water for at least 8 hours. To quick-soak, bring the beans to a rapid boil for 2 minutes. Turn off the heat, cover the pot, and allow the beans to stand for at least 1 hour. After either method, cook the beans as directed. Canned beans are convenient and make a good substitute for freshly cooked beans. One 15-ounce can of drained beans yields about 1½ cups cooked beans.

Navy Bean Soup with Ham and Bourbon makes 10 servings

Kentuckians love beans, ham, and bourbon. This recipe, adapted from a recipe in the Lexington Herald Leader, offers a twist on an old favorite.

1 pound dried navy beans 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 large onion, chopped (about 2 cups) ¼ cup Kentucky bourbon 2 cloves garlic, minced 1 teaspoon dried rosemary 1 teaspoon dried thyme 2 ham hocks (about 1 pound) 8 cups water Salt to taste Freshly ground black pepper to taste Rinse and sort through the beans, discarding any shriveled ones or pieces of debris. Place the beans in a large soup pan or Dutch oven, cover with water, and let stand overnight. Alternatively, for a quick soak, bring to a rapid boil for 2 minutes, cover, turn off the heat, and allow the beans to stand for at least 1 hour. Drain the beans and set them aside. Wipe the excess water out of the Dutch oven and heat the oil over medium heat. Add the onion and cook over medium-low heat for about 10 minutes, or until the onion is golden. Add the bourbon and stir, scraping any browned onion bits off the bottom of the pan. Stir in the garlic, rosemary, and thyme. Add the ham hocks, soaked beans, and water. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat to a simmer, cover, and cook over low heat until the beans and ham hocks are tender, about 2 hours. Remove the ham hocks and cool. Pull off the meat, chop it, and add it back to the beans. To thicken the broth, smash some of the beans up against the side of the pot with the back of a large spoon. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

january  41

Sweet Potato Vegetable Soup makes 8 servings

Chock full of spices and vegetables, this soup is ideal for a Sunday evening meal. It was inspired by a favorite recipe in the classic Moosewood Cookbook.

2 tablespoons olive oil 1 medium onion, chopped (about 1 cup) 4 ribs celery, thinly sliced 2 large sweet potatoes, peeled and cut into small cubes (about 4 cups) 4 cloves garlic, minced 2 teaspoons sweet or smoked paprika 1 teaspoon turmeric 1 teaspoon dried oregano ½ teaspoon ground ginger 1 bay leaf ½ teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1⁄8 teaspoon cayenne pepper, optional 6 cups reduced-sodium chicken or vegetable broth One 28-ounce can diced tomatoes, with the juice 1½ cups cooked, or one 15-ounce can, chickpeas, drained In a Dutch oven, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the onion and celery and cook, stirring occasionally until softened, about 5 minutes. Stir in the sweet potato, garlic, paprika, turmeric, oregano, ginger, bay leaf, salt, pepper, and cayenne pepper. Stir and cook for about 1 minute to blend ingredients and soften the garlic. Stir in the broth, tomatoes, and chickpeas. Bring to a boil, reduce to a simmer, and cook, partially covered, for about 30 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

variation: Sweet Potato Vegetable Soup with Kale Increase the broth by 2 cups and add 2 cups chopped kale with the tomatoes and chickpeas.

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February The best things in life are nearest: Breath in your nostrils, light in your eyes, flowers at your feet, duties at your hand, the path of right just before you. Then do not grasp at the stars, but do life’s plain, common work as it comes, certain that daily duties and daily bread are the sweetest things in life.—robert louis stevenson

The last full month of winter, February can bring some of Kentucky’s worst weather of the year. It might seem like spring is just around the bend, but February is unpredictable, with snow, ice storms, and even blizzards possible. Despite the threatening weather, there’s also a bit of festivity: Valentine’s Day provides a day to celebrate love, and Super Bowl Sunday offers the opportunity to snack and graze and celebrate that great American pastime—football. Our Kentucky pioneer ancestors didn’t have much to celebrate in February, except perhaps the discovery of something fresh to eat in the wild. February had the potential to be one of the leanest food months unless the pantry was adequately stocked to make it through until spring. In the twenty-first-century, practically any food or ingredient can be found at the supermarket with little planning or forethought, but I still make every effort to buy fresh, domestically raised produce from agricultural regions as close to Kentucky as possible. In addition, I take advantage of fresh, longer-storing produce such as apples, oranges, grapefruit, potatoes, winter squash, and root vegetables, as well as frozen fruits and vegetables.

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In February, home gardeners start to receive seed catalogs in the mail, signaling the time to plan our vegetable gardens. February is a time of anticipation, a time to dream of the plants, the growth, and the harvest. Take the opportunity during this short winter month to use the kitchen to celebrate love with home-cooked meals and celebrate this last blast of winter, even as the buds surely start to swell beneath the snow.

44 44  the kentucky fresh cookbook

Good Morning Food Scones didn’t grace our breakfast table when I was growing up. My first encounter with a scone was at the hands of my sister Barbara. Her travels to England introduced her to this sweet-style biscuit, and she brought her love for this teatime accompaniment home to her family. One hot summer morning we met for breakfast at my aunt Eileen’s Stamping Ground farm. Instead of a traditional Kentucky breakfast with fried eggs, sausage, grits, and toast, Barbara baked a batch of scones. We slathered them with thick Devonshire cream and sipped hot tea while the window air-conditioner blew cold air at our necks. Since then, I have grown to love baking these sweet biscuits, with a variety of additions to the dough. Much like biscuits, scones contain flour, baking powder and/or baking soda, butter, some variety of milk, sugar, and sometimes eggs. To mix the dough, either use an electric mixer or mix by hand using light, quick strokes to prevent the dough from getting tough. Scones can be cut into wedges or with a round cutter. Place the scones close together on the baking sheet for softer sides. Scones are best served warm on the day they are baked. Wrap the warm scones in a tea towel and serve them with butter, jam, preserves, or, in the British tradition, clotted or Devonshire cream. Hot tea is the customary beverage, but hot coffee is awfully good too. To freeze, cool the scones and place them in a heavy-duty zip-top bag.

Cutting Butter into Flour For the flakiest biscuits, scones, and pie crusts, it’s important to cut the butter into pieces that remain about the size of a pea. When the dough is baked, the butter melts, creating pockets of air between the cooked layers of dough. My favorite method of cutting butter into flour is to use a box grater. I chill the butter, grate it into the flour using the large holes on the grater, and then toss the butter and flour together with my hands to combine. This way, I don’t have to clean a food processor, and grating ensures that the butter pieces aren’t cut too small.

february  45

Mini Lemon Cream Scones makes sixteen 2-inch mini scones

Simply delightful, these bite-size scones offer the fresh taste of lemon.

4 tablespoons (½ stick) butter 2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour 2 tablespoons sugar 1 tablespoon baking powder Grated zest from 2 lemons ¼ teaspoon salt 2 large eggs ½ cup plus 2 tablespoons heavy cream, divided 2 tablespoons coarse or sparkling sugar, optional, for garnish Preheat the oven to 400°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Place the butter in the freezer to chill. Meanwhile, whisk together the flour, sugar, baking powder, lemon zest, and salt. With a box grater, grate the chilled butter into the flour mixture. With your hands, mix gently to incorporate the butter and coat it with flour. In a small bowl, whisk together the eggs and ½ cup cream. Add to the dry mixture and stir until a sticky dough is formed. Turn the shaggy dough onto a lightly floured countertop and knead just until the dough holds together, about 6 times. Pat into a 1-inch-thick round. With a 2-inch round cutter, cut the dough into round scones. Place the scones about 1 inch apart on the prepared baking sheet. Brush the top of the scones with the remaining heavy cream, and sprinkle with coarse or sparkling sugar, if desired. Bake in the center of the oven until crusty and golden brown, about 15 to 20 minutes. Serve warm, or cool on a rack.

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Chocolate Cherry Scones makes about 16 scones

This is a hearty, thick scone. Dried cranberries can be substituted for the cherries, if desired.

1¼ cups (2½ sticks) butter 3¼ cups unbleached all-purpose flour ¾ cup sugar ¾ teaspoon salt 2½ teaspoons baking powder 1 teaspoon baking soda 2½ cups old-fashioned oats 1 cup dried cherries 1 cup semisweet chocolate chips 1 cup low-fat buttermilk 1 tablespoon cream or milk Coarse or sparkling sugar Preheat the oven to 375°F. Line two baking sheets with parchment paper. Place the butter in the freezer. With an electric mixer or by hand, combine the flour, sugar, salt, baking powder, baking soda, and oats. Use the large holes of a box or cheese grater to grate the chilled butter into the flour. Mix by hand or on medium-low speed until the mixture resembles coarse meal. Stir in the cherries and chocolate chips. Using as few strokes as possible, gently mix in the buttermilk. Turn the dough out onto a clean work surface dusted with flour. With lightly floured hands, pat the dough into a large circle about 1 inch thick. With a 3-inch round cutter, cut into rounds and transfer to the prepared baking sheets. Brush the scones with cream or milk and sprinkle with sugar. Bake until light golden brown, about 25 to 30 minutes. Serve warm, or cool on a rack and freeze in heavy-duty freezer bags.

variation: Apricot White Chocolate Scones Substitute 1 cup chopped dried apricots for the cherries and white chocolate chips for the semisweet chips.

february  47

Kentucky Coffee Tree Scones makes 12 scones

Early Kentucky pioneers ground up the seeds from the Kentucky Coffee Tree and made a dark drink that resembled coffee. For a short time, the Kentucky Coffee Tree was our official state tree, much to the consternation of Tulip

1¼ cups (2½ sticks) butter 4½ cups unbleached all-purpose flour ½ cup sugar 1 cup semisweet chocolate chips 2 teaspoons baking powder ½ teaspoon baking soda ½ teaspoon salt 1¼ cups low-fat buttermilk ¼ cup instant espresso powder or dark instant coffee 1 tablespoon cream or milk Sparkling or coarse sugar

Poplar lovers. This recipe contains buttermilk mixed with espresso powder and a dose of chocolate chips for a not-too-sweet scone. Instant espresso powder can be found in large supermarkets and specialty food markets. If it’s not available, substitute dark instant coffee.

Preheat the oven to 400°F. Line two baking sheets with parchment paper. Place the butter in the freezer to chill. Whisk together the flour, sugar, chocolate chips, baking powder, baking soda, and salt. In a separate bowl, mix together the buttermilk and instant espresso powder. Use the large holes of a box or cheese grater and grate the butter into the flour mixture. Mix gently with your hands to combine. Using as few strokes as possible, fold the buttermilk mixture into the flour and butter mixture. Turn the dough out onto a clean work surface dusted with flour. With lightly floured hands, pat the dough into a large circle about 1 inch thick. Cut the circle in half, and cut each half into 6 wedges. Carefully transfer the wedges to the prepared baking sheets. Brush the scones with cream or milk, and sprinkle with coarse or sparkling sugar. Bake until light golden brown, about 25 to 30 minutes. Serve immediately, or cool on a rack.

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Interruptions and Other Things As I write, a fairly heavy snow falls outside, and although I can’t see it from here, I’m pretty sure my driveway begs to be shoveled. Inside, laundry waits just as patiently to be put away. Earlier this morning, our car was towed out of the garage after Warren heard something “snap” when he backed out to go to work. On the stove, a chicken cooks for dinner, while a cup of hot tea sits idly by. I’m thinking about the thank-you notes I need to write. Meanwhile, Maggie the dog barks as several kids hurl themselves through the door, tracking snow and slush on the floor with each and every step. On top of this, my mind wanders: we recently buried my aunt Mary after she spent a week in hospital-based hospice care. While we attended Mary’s funeral, my sister’s motherin-law died suddenly, less than twenty-four hours after being admitted to the hospital to treat a blood clot in her leg. I’m not complaining, really I’m not. In reality, I hope this story resonates with someone, because goodness knows we have all experienced times when the events of a day, or a week, seem to block the normal flow of our lives: ailing relatives, funeral services, children tracking snow on the floor, broken-down cars, and a driveway to shovel. It just seems that lately, whenever I start to believe I’m going to have a bit more time to write or to sip a cup of tea while it’s still hot, the phone rings, the bad news arrives, and I’m called on to do something else, something other than what my feeble mind had planned. C. S. Lewis once said, “The great thing, if one can, is to stop regarding all the unpleasant things as interruptions of one’s ‘own,’ or ‘real’ life. The truth is of course that what one calls the interruptions are precisely one’s real life—the life God is sending one day by day; what one calls one’s ‘real life’ is a phantom of one’s own imagination.” Snowy days and sad times may pull me in a million different directions, but all these directions are my life—not a life filled with imaginary people in an imaginary world where cars don’t break down and aging relatives live forever, but a life where cups of tea need to be reheated and bits of snow must be wiped off the kitchen floor. Now that I think about it, I guess it’s a good thing it’s snowing. I don’t have anywhere to go. I think I’ll bake another yellow buttermilk cake or mix another batch of pimiento cheese to take to my grieving sister and her husband. Driving to Lexington is not what I planned to do this weekend, but I’m going to try to do better at living the life I’ve been given, one interruption or unpleasant event at a time. running foot  49

Buttermilk If bourbon is the favorite distilled spirit of Kentucky, buttermilk might be the favorite dairy beverage. In my Kentucky kitchen, buttermilk is a mainstay. I use it as an ingredient in pancakes, biscuits, pies, pound cakes, salad dressings, oven-fried chicken, and cornbread. Or it can be served as a cold beverage—a tart, thick, some would say yogurt-like milk. My uncle Harvey liked it poured into a tall glass and mixed with crumbled saltine crackers. Old-fashioned buttermilk is the liquid remaining after butter is churned. Modern buttermilk is a cultured milk to which acid or other cultures are added, giving the milk a sour tang and a thick consistency adaptable for many baking and culinary applications. Keeping buttermilk fresh can be a challenge if it’s not used frequently. Homemade buttermilk substitute is easy to make with lemon juice and milk: Measure 1 tablespoon lemon juice into a 2-cup liquid measuring cup. Add milk up to the 1-cup line and stir. Let it sit for 5 minutes to thicken, then use as directed in the recipe. Buttermilk powder, also called cultured buttermilk blend (SACO Foods), is another option; just mix the powder with water. Although it’s not the same as fresh buttermilk, it’s a handy ingredient to keep in the pantry, and it makes an acceptable substitute. I use buttermilk powder in Multigrain Flapjack Mix (page 73), a shelf-stable pancake mix that’s good for camping, gifts, or keeping in the freezer. For a serving of local buttermilk, try Trauth Dairy in Newport, founded by Louis Trauth Sr. in 1920. To this day, members of the Trauth family and their employees continue to operate their dairy, now owned by Dean Foods. They produce three varieties of buttermilk—traditional, country style (with real butter flecks), and low fat. There’s also Southern Belle Dairy from Somerset. Southern Belle was started in the early 1950s by Ralph Shearer, a dairyman from Monticello. Its cultured buttermilk is a long-standing tradition on many Kentucky tables. In August, Bardstown hosts a Buttermilk Days Festival, with home cooking, dancing, and music.

Super Bowl Sunday In addition to football, the Super Bowl is about food—lots of finger food and cold drinks to wash it down. In the United States, Super Bowl Sunday has been dubbed the second most important food holiday, after Thanksgiving. Portable snacks appropriate for eating in front of the TV or while jumping off the couch to cheer on your team are a must, the only exception being a hot bowl of chili at halftime. Disposable plates and bowls, lots of napkins, and food that doesn’t require a knife makes for a casual, football-worthy party. A protein-rich snack such as meatballs, sliders, or chili, and vegetables with creamy or bean dips, and something sweet along with hot coffee for a favorable sendoff all make great menu ideas.

menu Cheese Dip with Chutney, Bacon, and Green Onions Beer Cheese Hummus White Bean and Chicken Chili Buffalo-Style Turkey Meatballs Buffalo Sliders with Smoky Remoulade Sauce (page 262) Muffulettas (page 101) Smoky Chili Non Carne (page 289) Winter Wheat Berry Salad (page 63) One-Pan Chocolate Chip Pecan Blondies (page 223) Everything Cookies (page 104)

february  51

Cheese Dip with Chutney, Bacon, and Green Onions makes 8 servings

A sweet, salty, portable dip for a party, adapted from Saveur magazine.

½ cup (1 stick) butter, softened One 8-ounce package Neufchâtel or cream cheese 6 ounces (1½ cups) grated sharp white Cheddar ¾ cup mango chutney 4 slices bacon, cooked crisp and crumbled 2 green onions, thinly sliced In a bowl, mix together the butter, cream cheese, and Cheddar. Transfer to a wide-mouth bowl or serving platter. Spread the chutney over the cheese mixture. Sprinkle with the crumbled bacon and green onion. Cover and refrigerate until served.

Beer Cheese Hummus makes about 2½ cups

Kentuckians are crazy about beer cheese. This hummus is a dairy-free alternative with the same snappy flavor. Serve with celery sticks, pretzel rods, or cucumber sticks. To flatten the beer, let it sit at room

1½ cups cooked, or one 15-ounce can, chickpeas, drained ½ cup roasted red pepper strips ½ cup flat beer ¼ cup tahini 2 cloves garlic, minced Juice of 1 lemon 2 tablespoons olive oil ½ teaspoon salt ¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper

temperature overnight or, for a quicker method, pour a cold beer back and forth between two glasses for about 5 minutes to release

Place all the ingredients in a blender or food processor, and blend or process until the mixture is smooth. Refrigerate for at least 1 hour for the best flavor.

the carbonation.

52  the kentucky fresh cookbook

White Bean and Chicken Chili makes 8 servings

This bean- and chickenfilled chili is an adaptation of the former Louisville restaurant, Timothy’s, classic alternative to tomato-based chili. Stir in the chopped cooked chicken at the end of cooking to keep it moist. This recipe can easily be doubled. Also good made with chopped turkey.

1 tablespoon olive oil 1 medium onion, chopped (about 1 cup) 4 cloves garlic, chopped 2 teaspoons ground cumin 1 teaspoon dried oregano ¼ teaspoon ground cloves 1 cup chopped green chilies (two 4-ounce cans) 4 cups reduced-sodium chicken broth 3 cups cooked, or two 15-ounce cans, great Northern beans 4 cups diced cooked chicken Grated Monterey Jack, for garnish Salsa verde, for garnish Sour cream, for garnish In a Dutch oven, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the onion and cook until golden, about 5 minutes. Stir in the garlic, cumin, oregano, and cloves and cook for about 1 minute. Add the green chilies, chicken broth, and beans. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat to a simmer, and cook for about 20 minutes. Stir in the chicken and cook for about 10 more minutes. Serve topped with cheese, salsa, and sour cream if desired.

february  53

Buffalo-Style Turkey Meatballs makes about 24 meatballs

Not to be confused with buffalo (or bison) meat, these meatballs are a variation on the popular Buffalo (New York) chicken wings. Adjust the quantity of hot

meatballs 1 pound ground turkey ½ cup bread crumbs 2 tablespoons olive oil 2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce 1 tablespoon reduced-sodium soy sauce or tamari ¼ teaspoon salt 1⁄8 teaspoon cayenne pepper

red pepper sauce to suit personal preferences for

sauce

spiciness. Serve with cel-

½ cup (1 stick) butter ½ cup hot red pepper sauce 3 tablespoons Kentucky honey ½ teaspoon garlic powder

ery sticks and blue cheese dressing for a traditional snack, or try Green Goddess Dressing (page 118) for a more herb-filled variation. For scoop sizes, see page 340.

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Spray a baking sheet with nonstick cooking spray. In a bowl, mix together all the meatball ingredients. Test the flavor by cooking a small patty in a skillet. If it’s seasoned correctly, proceed with shaping the meatballs. Roll the mixture into meatballs about the size of a golf ball. I use a #40 scoop to ensure a consistent size. Place the meatballs on the prepared baking sheet. Bake for about 20 minutes, or until the meatballs are lightly browned and cooked throughout. Meanwhile, for the sauce, melt the butter in a saucepan over medium heat. Stir in the hot red pepper sauce, honey, and garlic powder. Coat the cooked meatballs with the sauce. Serve hot.

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Skillet Bean Meals Some of my favorite go-to meals are meatless and made on the stovetop. I typically have a variety of beans—both canned and dried—on hand. If the spirit moves me, I cook dried beans the old-fashioned way; otherwise, I use canned black or red beans or chickpeas in my favorite skillet bean entrees. To make a satisfying and complete meal, I serve these bean dishes with cooked grains, such as rice, quinoa, or couscous, and a salad, such as Blueberry Spinach Salad (page 160) or Blood Orange Ambrosia (page 27). Silver Dollar Corncakes (page 295) or Buttermilk Cornbread (page 293) also goes well with these meals. Any leftovers can be frozen or refrigerated for a packed lunch or to serve another night.

february  55

Smoky Black Beans with Sweet Potatoes makes 6 servings

A traditional Hispanic meal is Moors and Christians— saucy black beans served over boiled white rice. These rich beans are a favorite served over rice and topped with diced avocado, chopped green onion, or a dollop of sour cream. Sliced, cooked chicken sausage, smoked sausage, or chunks of cooked chicken can be added to satisfy the diehard meat lover.

2 tablespoons olive oil 1 medium onion, chopped; or 8 green onions, thinly sliced (about 1 cup) 2 small sweet potatoes, peeled and diced (about 2 cups) 4 cloves garlic, minced 2 teaspoons smoked paprika 1 teaspoon ground cumin 1 teaspoon dried oregano 1 bay leaf ½ teaspoon salt 1⁄8 teaspoon cayenne pepper, optional 3 cups cooked, or two 15-ounce cans, black beans, drained 1½ cups reduced-sodium chicken or vegetable broth Chopped avocado, for garnish Sliced green onion, for garnish In a large skillet, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the onion and sweet potato and cook for about 5 minutes, until softened. Stir in the garlic, paprika, cumin, oregano, bay leaf, salt, and cayenne pepper. Cook for 30 seconds to soften the garlic, but do not scorch the garlic or spices. Stir in the beans and broth. Bring to gentle boil and cook for about 20 minutes, until the sauce thickens. Serve over hot cooked rice and garnish with chopped avocado and green onion if desired.

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Curried Chickpeas with Golden Raisins makes 6 servings

A dish called Chicken Country Captain has long been popular in southern food cookbooks. This meatless curry dish is my nod to that popular recipe and Kentuckians’ love for beans. Cooking the onion until “golden” creates a rich flavor base for the chickpeas (also known as

2 tablespoons olive oil 1 medium onion, chopped (about 1 cup) 3 cloves garlic, minced 1 tablespoon sweet curry powder 3 cups cooked, or two 15-ounce cans, chickpeas, drained 1½ cups diced fresh tomatoes or one 15-ounce can diced tomatoes, drained 1 cup reduced-sodium chicken broth ½ cup golden raisins ½ cup minced fresh cilantro or thawed frozen green peas ½ cup plain yogurt, drained ¼ teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

garbanzo beans). Serve with Cardamom Brown Rice (page 62) or Yellow Basmati Rice Pilaf (page 24).

In a large skillet, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until golden, about 8 to 10 minutes. Add the garlic and curry powder and continue to cook for 1 more minute, until fragrant. Add the chickpeas, tomatoes, and chicken broth. Bring to a boil, reduce to a simmer, and cook for about 10 minutes to thicken the sauce. Turn off the heat and stir in the raisins, cilantro or peas, yogurt, salt, and pepper. Warm over very low heat, if needed, but be careful not to curdle the yogurt. Serve over hot rice.

february  57

Skillet Red Beans makes 6 servings

Serve with hot cooked brown or white rice or with Cilantro Lime Rice (page 62). If the carnivores balk at the concept of meatless red beans, brown ½ pound andouille or smoked sausage

2 tablespoons olive oil 1 medium onion, chopped (about 1 cup) 2 ribs celery, chopped 4 cloves garlic, minced 2 teaspoons dried thyme 3 cups diced fresh tomatoes or two 15-ounce cans diced tomatoes 3 cups cooked, or two 15-ounce cans, red beans, drained 4 green onions, thinly sliced on the diagonal

before cooking the onion and then proceed with the recipe.

In a large skillet, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the onion and celery and cook for about 5 minutes, until the onion is softened. Stir in the garlic and thyme and cook for 2 more minutes. Add the diced tomatoes with the juice, and scrape the bottom of the pan to loosen any brown bits. Add the beans and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low and simmer for about 20 minutes, or until the juices thicken. Serve over hot rice and garnish with sliced green onions.

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Spicy Butternut Squash and Chickpea Stew makes 8 servings

This hearty vegetable stew pairs well with Yellow Basmati Rice Pilaf (page 24) or Cilantro Lime Rice (page 62). The best way to peel a butternut squash is very carefully with a very sharp knife or a very sharp ceramic vegetable peeler.

2 tablespoons olive oil 1 large onion, chopped (about 2 cups) 4 cloves garlic, chopped 1 tablespoon minced fresh ginger 1½ teaspoons cinnamon ¾ teaspoon turmeric 1⁄8 teaspoon cayenne pepper, optional 1 butternut squash, peeled, seeded, and cut into chunks (about 3 cups) 1½ cups reduced-sodium chicken broth, divided One 28-ounce can diced tomatoes, drained; or 2 large tomatoes, seeded and diced 1½ cups cooked, or one 15-ounce can, chickpeas, drained ½ cup fresh minced cilantro or parsley In a large skillet, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the onion and cook over medium-high heat until softened and golden, about 8 minutes. Add the garlic, ginger, cinnamon, turmeric, and cayenne pepper, and cook for 1 minute. Add the squash and ½ cup chicken broth. Cover and let cook for about 10 minutes, or until the squash is soft enough to pierce with a fork. Add the tomatoes, chickpeas, and remaining 1 cup chicken broth. Cover and let cook about 10 more minutes, until the vegetables are softened. Stir in the cilantro or parsley. Salt and pepper to taste.

february  59

Black Bean Burritos makes 6 burritos

The secret to this dish is to get everything ready before rolling the burritos. Keep the assembled burritos warm in the oven while completing the others.

2 tablespoons olive oil 4 cloves garlic, minced 3 cups cooked, or two 15-ounce cans, black beans, drained ½ cup reduced-sodium chicken broth or water 1 teaspoon ground cumin ½ teaspoon smoked paprika ½ teaspoon salt Six 10-inch flour tortillas (sometimes called burrito size) 4 ounces (1 cup) shredded Cheddar, Colby, or Monterey Jack Cilantro Lime Rice (page 62) Preheat the oven to 200°F. In a large skillet, heat the oil over medium-low heat. Add the garlic and cook while stirring for about 1 minute, until just fragrant. Stir in the beans, broth, cumin, paprika, and salt. Reduce the heat to low and simmer for about 10 minutes, until thickened. Prepare the recipe for Cilantro Lime Rice.   When the beans are heated and the rice cooked, heat each tortilla on a warm griddle or in a warm skillet for about 10 seconds on each side. Place the warmed tortilla on a large plate or clean countertop. Spoon ½ cup rice over the bottom third of the tortilla, and top with ½ cup black beans. Sprinkle with 2 tablespoons shredded cheese. Fold the bottom of the tortilla up over the rice and beans, and fold the sides in to almost meet in the center. Roll the burrito into a tight package, tucking in the sides as the tortilla is rolled. Keep them warm in the oven until ready to serve. While rolling one burrito, heat your next tortilla shell. This keeps the assembly line moving. Repeat to make 6 burritos.

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Grain and Vegetable Side Dishes Although Kentucky doesn’t produce rice, several varieties of rice are grown in the South and elsewhere in the United States. Rice-producing states include South Carolina, Arkansas, California, Louisiana, Mississippi, Missouri, and Texas. Carolina Plantation Rice, grown in South Carolina, and a brand of basmati rice called Texmati are two southern brands. Rice plays a role in the traditional food of Kentucky—rice pudding, stuffed peppers (or stuffed mangoes, as they say in parts of Kentucky), rice casseroles, and, my favorite way to serve rice, alongside a dish of seasoned beans. The following dishes pair well with the skillet bean recipes presented earlier.

Cooking Long-Grain Rice With a saucepan that has a tight-fitting lid, both white and brown rice can be cooked on the stovetop at a fraction of the cost of instant rice or instant rice mixes. The basic guideline for rice is 1, 2, 3: 1 cup uncooked rice plus 2 cups water yields 3 cups cooked rice. Two rules when cooking rice are don’t lift the lid and don’t stir the rice (if you don’t do the first, you can’t do the second). To cook longgrain rice, combine the uncooked rice and water in a saucepan. Bring to a boil over medium heat. Stir, cover, reduce the heat to low, and let cook for 15 minutes for white rice and about 45 minutes for long-grain brown rice. Turn off the heat and let both sit for at least 5 minutes. Fluff with a fork before serving.

february  61

Cilantro Lime Rice makes 3 cups rice, about 6 servings

1 cup long-grain white or brown rice 2 cups water 1 tablespoon canola oil ¼ cup chopped fresh cilantro Juice of 1 lime Place the rice in a saucepan that has a tight-fitting lid. Stir in the water and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Stir, reduce the heat to low, cover tightly, and allow to cook for 15 minutes for white rice or 45 minutes for brown rice, without removing the lid. Turn off the heat and allow to sit for 5 minutes. Fluff with a fork and stir in the oil, lime juice, and chopped cilantro. Serve warm.

Cardamom Brown Rice makes 3 cups rice, about 6 servings

Ground cardamom adds a distinctive spicy taste to this rice pilaf, almost like a

1 tablespoon canola oil ½ small onion, finely chopped (about ¼ cup) 1 teaspoon ground cardamom 1 cup long-grain brown rice 2½ cups water 2 bay leaves

sweet black pepper. Brown rice takes a bit longer to cook than white, but the warm brown color and added nutrients are a bonus.

In a saucepan, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the onion and cook for 5 minutes, until golden. Stir in the cardamom and rice and toast the rice for about 1 minute. Add the water and bay leaves. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat to low, cover, and let cook for 45 minutes. Turn off the heat and let the rice rest for 10 minutes. Fluff with a fork and remove the bay leaves before serving.

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Bluegrass Soy Sauce For local Kentucky flair, consider Bluegrass Soy Sauce. Microbrewed in small batches using only Kentucky-grown, non–genetically modified soybeans, wheat, and limestone-filtered Kentucky spring water, Bluegrass Soy Sauce is a Kentucky original. Fermented and aged in bourbon barrels, this soy sauce has a smoky flavor, with hints of oak and a sweetness reminiscent of Kentucky bourbon.

Winter Wheat Berry Salad makes about 12 servings

This salad, with its variety of chopped fresh ingredients, adds a welcome dose of crunch as well as a splash of seasonal color to any winter meal. Six cups of any cooked whole grain, such as brown rice, quinoa,

2 cups uncooked wheat berries 1 medium carrot, peeled and grated 1 rib celery, finely chopped 1 medium apple, unpeeled, cored and finely chopped ¼ cup chopped fresh parsley 2 green onions, white and green parts, finely chopped 2 cloves garlic, minced ½ cup dried cranberries or dried cherries ¼ cup olive oil 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice 2 tablespoons reduced-sodium soy sauce or tamari ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

pearl barley, or bulgur, can be substituted for the wheat berries, but be aware that the cooking times for whole grains vary.

Place the wheat berries in a saucepan with enough water to cover by a few inches. Bring to a boil, lower heat to a simmer, cover, and cook for 45 minutes. Test for doneness by tasting: the wheat berry should have a soft but chewy texture. If necessary, cover and continue to cook for 15 to 20 minutes, until the desired texture is achieved. Drain the wheat berries and cool to room temperature. Meanwhile, combine the carrot, celery, apple, parsley, green onion, garlic, dried cranberries, olive oil, lemon juice, soy sauce, and pepper. Stir in the cooled wheat berries. Serve at room temperature, or refrigerate until served.

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Spicy Braised Greens makes 4 servings

Choose any assertive greens for this recipe, but remember that they all will shrink significantly when cooked.

2 pounds kale, collards, turnip greens, or mustard greens, stemmed, washed, and chopped 1 medium onion, chopped (about 1 cup) 4 cloves garlic, sliced ½ teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes 4 cups water Place all the ingredients in a large Dutch oven. Cover and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low and simmer for about 30 minutes, until the greens are softened but still a nice shade of green. Stir, replace the cover, and continue cooking for 10 more minutes.

Valentine’s Day Some would argue that Valentine’s Day was created by greeting card companies. No matter the motivation, we enjoy celebrating this day devoted to love by exchanging heart-shaped boxes of candy and cooking special meals. (In my family’s case, the meal was served on Valentine’s Day, but my father brought home the candy on the day after, when Zandale Pharmacy marked it 50 percent off.)

menu Flank Steak with Red Wine Pan Sauce Oven-Roasted Root Vegetables Modern Caesar Salad with Salt and Pepper Croutons Warm Chocolate Bourbon Cakes with Brown Sugar Bourbon Whipped Cream and Rich Chocolate Sauce

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Flank Steak with Red Wine Pan Sauce makes 4 servings

This is a dazzling dish for a special occasion: thinly sliced flank steak with a dark, shiny pepper-studded sauce.

One 1½-pound flank steak ½ teaspoon kosher salt ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1 tablespoon butter ¼ cup minced green onion ¼ cup dry red wine (one suitable for drinking) ½ cup beef stock 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard 2 tablespoons cracked black peppercorns ¼ cup (½ stick) butter, cut into 1-tablespoon pieces Season the steak with salt and pepper. Preheat the oven to 200°F, and warm an oven-safe platter in the oven. In a large skillet, heat the butter over medium-high heat. Add the steak and brown on the first side for 4 minutes. Turn and brown for 4 minutes on the other side. Reduce the heat to low and cook for about 4 more minutes for a medium-rare steak. Adjust the cooking time for the desired degree of doneness. Place the steak on the warm platter.   In the same skillet, cook the green onion in the pan juices over medium-high heat. Add the red wine and cook, scraping the browned bits off the bottom of the pan. Let the wine reduce and thicken for about 1 minute. Stir in the beef stock, mustard, and peppercorns, and bring to a boil to reduce by half, about 5 minutes. Slowly whisk in 1 tablespoon of butter at a time, letting it melt and blend into the sauce before adding the next one. Thinly slice the steak and serve with the pan sauce.

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Oven-Roasted Root Vegetables makes 6 servings

Earthy roasted root vegetables are the highlight of a winter meal and are a colorful alternative to potatoes. For variety, I include

1 pound baby carrots or whole carrots, peeled and sliced 1 large onion, peeled and cut into chunks 4 parsnips, peeled and cut into chunks ¼ cup olive oil 2 teaspoons dried thyme 1 teaspoon kosher salt ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

chunks of red-skinned potato, butternut squash, sweet potato, and sometimes large cloves of fresh garlic. Cut all the vegetables the same size so

Preheat the oven to 400°F. In a large bowl, toss together all the ingredients. Transfer the mixture to a rimmed baking sheet and bake for 45 to 50 minutes, or until soft and golden brown. Stir once during cooking. Serve warm or at room temperature.

they cook evenly and at the same rate.

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Modern Caesar Salad with Salt and Pepper Croutons makes 4 servings

This salad includes all the classic ingredients except a raw egg—thus the term modern.

salt and pepper croutons 4 ounces hearty bread, cut into 1-inch cubes 2 tablespoons olive oil ½ teaspoon dried thyme ½ teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

salad and dressing 1 head romaine lettuce or 2 romaine hearts 1 clove garlic, minced 6 anchovy fillets or 2 tablespoons anchovy paste 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard 1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce ½ cup mayonnaise Juice of 1 lemon ½ cup shredded Parmesan Preheat the oven to 400­­°F. In a bowl, mix together the bread cubes, olive oil, thyme, salt, and pepper. Spread on a rimmed baking sheet and bake until golden brown, about 15 minutes. Allow to cool.   Meanwhile, for the salad, wash the lettuce and tear it into bite-sized pieces. In a bowl, whisk together the garlic, anchovy, Dijon, Worcestershire sauce, mayonnaise, and lemon juice. Toss the dressing with the lettuce and stir in the croutons and Parmesan.

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Kentucky Chocolate It’s easy to participate in the chocolate frenzy with Jamieson’s chocolate manufactured in Mt. Sterling. Made with 100 percent Ghana cocoa bean chocolate, Jamieson’s is a smooth and delectable treat available in a range of cocoa solids, from robust dark at 70 percent to rich milk at 37.8 percent.

Warm Chocolate Bourbon Cakes makes 6 servings

These cakes can be served right from the oven or made ahead of time and refrigerated. To reheat the cakes,

4 ounces bittersweet chocolate ½ cup (1 stick) butter 2 large eggs plus 2 large egg yolks 1⁄3 cup sugar 2 tablespoons unbleached all-purpose flour 1 tablespoon Kentucky bourbon

place in a microwave oven on 50 percent power for 20 to 30 seconds.

Preheat the oven to 300°F. Spray a 6-cup muffin tin with nonstick cooking spray. Place the chocolate and butter in a double boiler and heat until melted. With an electric mixer, beat the eggs, egg yolks, and sugar until pale and lemon colored, about 4 minutes. Beat in the flour 1 tablespoon at a time. Add the bourbon and melted butter and chocolate. Beat for 4 more minutes, until light and fluffy. Pour the batter into the prepared muffin tin. Bake until the cakes pull away from the sides of the pan, about 15 to 18 minutes. The center of the cake may look “uncooked,” but this is okay. Remove from the oven and let sit for 5 minutes. To remove the cakes from the pan, place a serving plate or baking sheet on top of the muffin tin and invert. Serve with a large spoonful of Brown Sugar Bourbon Whipped Cream and a drizzle of Rich Chocolate Sauce (recipes follow), if desired.

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Brown Sugar Bourbon Whipped Cream makes about 2 cups

The brown sugar and bour-

1 cup heavy whipping cream 1 tablespoon Kentucky bourbon ¼ cup light brown sugar

bon result in a tan-colored whipped cream. Read more about whipping cream on page 242.

Place the cream, the bowl, and the electric beaters or whisk in the freezer for 10 minutes. In the chilled bowl, mix the bourbon and brown sugar until the sugar is dissolved. Add the heavy cream and beat with an electric mixer until thick.

Rich Chocolate Sauce makes about 1 cup

½ cup heavy cream ½ cup chopped bittersweet chocolate In a small saucepan, heat the cream over high heat until it begins to steam. Place the chopped chocolate in a glass or stainless-steel bowl. Pour the cream over the chocolate. Cover with a piece of plastic wrap. Let stand for 10 minutes. Uncover and whisk until smooth. Store at room temperature for up to 1 hour, or keep in the refrigerator. To gently warm the sauce after refrigeration, place in a microwave and heat in 10- to 15-second intervals, stirring in between.

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March This is the best time in a garden, when all is hope and great expectations. The earth has a newness which becomes tarnished by mid-summer, the air is fresh and warm, fragrant with the moist earth.—harlan hubbard, payne hollow journal

In March, Kentucky is reborn. As the earth starts to wake from its winter nap, spring shows Kentuckians what they have to look forward to. March calls us outdoors—out of our homes, out of layers of clothes, and away from our cold-weather cooking methods. Leaving the cocoon of our homes to visit a neighbor or take a bike ride, we see the grass turning greener and smell the sweet blooms of spring. Early in the morning, birds chirp in the trees and robins hop around the yard, pulling worms out of the dirt. On clear, warm days we work in the yard, trimming dead perennials, cutting back the ornamental grass, and raking away the mulch while tender shoots of chives, garlic, and lemon balm poke up through the dirt. All this is in preparation for the tender foods that springtime brings to the kitchen. As I stroll through my soggy backyard, I stumble upon tiny clumps of green shoots growing near my kitchen. Around the neighborhood, I see crocuses and daffodils in bloom. Striking as these flowers are, my springtime clumps of green are of the edible variety—chives. Resembling the thin, wild green onions that sprout in our lawns, chives are a hardy perennial. They rarely let me down. Year after year, they appear in their familiar spot under the

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bayberry tree. As the chill of winter freezes the soil, chives’ tiny bulbs lie dormant. In early March, when the temperature begins to rise, their thin, cylindrical leaves erupt above the mulch. The time has come to enjoy some herbs from the garden—finally. Throughout my life, March has offered celebrations: sometimes Easter, sometimes an NCAA basketball victory for the University of Kentucky, and always St. Patrick’s Day. My Irish grandmother and mother made sure we had something green to wear to school, and they cooked an Irishinspired meal—either the authentic sort, consisting of stew or corned beef, or a less authentic green-colored applesauce or mashed potatoes. Then, two of my three children were born in March, adding birthday celebrations to the start of spring. This means cake, candles, gifts, parties, and the love of life from two of the greatest gifts I’ve been given, my firstborn son and my only daughter. This is also the time of year maple sap starts to “run,” and across the state fires burn to turn the sap into maple syrup (see page 75). Perennial vegetables and fruits such as asparagus and rhubarb start to produce, and strawberries begin to show up in supermarkets. Before these local crops appear, I try to choose fruits and vegetables grown as close to Kentucky as possible, rather than those imported from other countries. March is the time to drink in the shift from winter to spring. Swing open the back door and feel the breeze of new growth and new birth. It’s an exciting time of change in the kitchen, in the garden, and all across Kentucky.

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Good Morning Food The original Aunt Jemima Pancake Mix bore the image of Nancy Green, a native of Montgomery County. A freed slave, a storyteller, and the first African American corporate model, she traveled the country promoting the pancake mix until her untimely death in a car accident in 1923. As the following recipes show, it’s easy to make a soft, fluffy pancake without a mix. For a 6-inch pancake, use ½ cup batter; for a 5-inch pancake, use 1⁄3 cup batter; for a 4-inch pancake, use ¼ cup batter; and for silver dollar–sized pancakes, use a tablespoon to portion out the batter. Top pancakes with whipped butter, powdered sugar, or warm, pure maple syrup.

Mile-High Buttermilk Pancakes makes about 18 pancakes

2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour 1 teaspoon baking powder ¾ teaspoon baking soda 1 teaspoon salt 2 large eggs 2 cups plus 2 tablespoons low-fat buttermilk ¼ cup (½ stick) butter, melted In a large bowl, stir together the flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt. In another bowl, mix together the eggs, buttermilk, and melted butter. Make a hole in the center of the flour and pour in the buttermilk mixture. Mix until the ingredients are blended but not smooth. Let stand for 5 minutes. Heat a griddle over medium heat until water flicked on the surface beads up and dances around. Use a ¼-cup measure to scoop the batter onto the griddle. Cook about 3 minutes, or until bubbles form on the surface and the bottom of the pancake is lightly browned. Turn the pancake over and continue to cook until the other side is browned, about 2 more minutes. Serve immediately or keep warm in a 200°F oven.

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Multigrain Flapjack Mix makes 8 cups

Freeze this mix in gallonsize zip-top bags to make mixing a batch of pancakes easier. Pastry flour is softer and lower in protein than traditional flour and makes a lighter, fluffier wholegrain pancake compared with whole wheat flour.

4 cups whole wheat pastry flour 1 cup whole wheat flour ¾ cup buckwheat flour ¼ cup cornmeal ¾ cup oat flour or quick-cooking oats (not old-fashioned oats) 1 cup buttermilk powder 2½ tablespoons baking powder 1 tablespoon baking soda ½ cup sugar 1 tablespoon salt

In Kentucky, Weisenberger Mills sells whole wheat pastry flour. Buttermilk powder is sold in most supermarkets near the other

Mix all the ingredients together in a large bowl. Divide the mix in half and place in two gallon-size zip-top freezer bags (about 4 cups in each bag). Store in the freezer for up to 6 months.

dry milk powders.

Multigrain Flapjacks makes about 8 pancakes

1 cup Multigrain Flapjack Mix (above) ½ cup water 1 large egg 2 tablespoons canola oil Stir all the ingredients together in a medium bowl. Heat a griddle over medium heat until water flicked on the surface beads up and dances around. Ladle out the batter using a ¼-cup measuring cup. Cook on one side until bubbles open on the surface of the pancake. Flip and cook until golden brown on the other side. Serve immediately or keep warm in a 200°F oven.

march  73

My Irish Grandmother Margaret O’Neil Kearney—or Mamaw, as I knew her—was the daughter of Irish immigrants Thomas and Nora O’Neil. In a somewhat familiar story, Thomas and Nora immigrated to Massachusetts from Kerry County, Ireland, in search of a better life. Their daughter Margaret, my grandmother, was a registered nurse who received recognition for her work during the 1918 flu epidemic. In 1919, while on vacation in Lexington, Margaret met Michael William Kearney. They married in 1921, raised four children in Kentucky, and had a relatively good, but not easy, life. As if it were yesterday, I can see myself riding in a car with my aunt Mary on our way to Mamaw’s, house. Mary lived with Mamaw in a Lexington neighborhood where small white bungalows rested beneath large water maples. I stare out the passenger window, anticipating my weekend as an “only child,” leaving behind my parents, my seven siblings, and the twirl of activity a large family creates. Upon our arrival, I tumble out of the car as Mamaw waits on the concrete stoop outside the back door. She is wiping her wet hands on her apron. I hug her, take her hand, and walk across the porch directly into the kitchen. Her hands feel soft, and she smells Ivory soap fresh. Mamaw quickly resumes her cooking, and I skip to the bedroom to drop my suitcase. Upon returning to the kitchen, I see Mamaw’s eighty-four-year-old back bending over the red countertop. She is busy making dinner rolls. I spy a dimpled aluminum pan, full of irregular mounds of dough. To keep my hands occupied, I am supplied with an extra ball of dough. I shape tiny figures, crescent moons, and other odd shapes and sprinkle them with glistening sugar and cinnamon. They are baked in the oven, beside the rolls. I was fortunate to be able to spend time with my grandmother. She was older than most grandmothers of girls my age, having given birth to my mom at age forty-four. Despite her age, she taught me how to play canasta, and if my memory serves me correctly, she taught me how to go “out” with a concealed canasta, revealing her mischievous side. Together we worked jigsaw puzzles, crocheted, embroidered, and cooked. In her kitchen, food was prepared for family and friends, and the meals we shared did more than fill my preadolescent tummy—they also filled my heart. All I have to do is close my eyes, and suddenly I can smell the dinner rolls, the Ivory soap in the sink, and I feel Mamaw’s soft hand in mine as we cross the back porch. 74  the kentucky fresh cookbook

Maple Syrup Pure maple syrup is a clear, amber-colored sweetener produced from the sap of sugar maple and red maple trees. Kentucky might not be the first state that comes to mind when one thinks of maple syrup, but with an abundance of wild red maple trees, our state produces syrup that rivals any New England product. The running and collecting of clear maple sap are sure signs of spring. During the first hard thaw after a late winter freeze, holes are drilled in maple trees to hold spouts through which the sap flows, and buckets are hung to collect the sap. After collecting gallons and gallons of the clear sap, maple syrup producers boil it down, searching for the fine line between thick, pancake-worthy syrup and a boiled mess. It takes about 40 to 50 gallons of clear maple sap to produce 1 gallon of maple syrup. Pure maple syrup comes in four grades, according to its flavor and color. These sometimes subtle differences correspond to when in the season the sap was collected and the syrup produced. Grade A light is the earliest spring syrup, with a light amber color and a mild maple flavor. Grade A medium has a more pronounced flavor and is the most popular grade for table use. Grade B dark, sometimes called grade A dark amber, is darker in color and more robust in flavor than other grade A syrups because it is made later in the season. Grade B, made at the end of the season, is the strongest and darkest syrup and is great for cooking and baking. Pure maple syrup contains no preservatives and is best stored in the refrigerator. I warm the syrup just before serving so it melts the butter and keeps the pancakes, waffles, or French toast piping hot. Kentucky’s annual Maple Syrup Festival is held in Auburn on the grounds of Federal Grove bed-and-breakfast during the last weekend of February or the first weekend in March.

St. Patrick’s Day Whether one is Irish or not, March 17 is the optimal day to cook a festive Irish meal and drink a tumbler of stout. My grandmother and my aunt Mary made sure we celebrated St. Patrick’s Day with a special meal. Green grasshopper pie and green-tinted applesauce were not uncommon, even though the Irish wouldn’t have eaten such food. Here’s a more traditional menu.

menu Kentucky Barrel Ale Stew Fluffiest Mashed Potatoes Cast-Iron Skillet Soda Bread Kentucky Irish Coffee Warm Bread Pudding with Kentucky Bourbon Sauce (page 25) or Shortbread Cutouts (shamrocks) (page 337)

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Kentucky Barrel Ale Stew makes 6 servings

The end of winter is the time for one last coldweather stew before warmweather cooking methods take over. This variation of beef stew focuses on simplicity: well-browned meat seasoned with garlic, onions, and herbs. I prefer to bake the stew to surround the pan with gentle heat. I

2½ pounds boneless chuck roast, cut into 2-inch pieces Salt to taste Freshly ground black pepper to taste ¼ cup canola oil, divided 2 large onions, cut into chunks 4 cloves garlic, smashed 1 teaspoon dried thyme 2 bay leaves One 12-ounce bottle dark stout or ale, such as Guinness or Kentucky Ale ½ cup water 8 carrots, peeled and cut into 3-inch pieces 4 ribs celery, cut into 3-inch pieces

add the carrots after about 1½ hours, to prevent them from overcooking. When the stew is finished, I have perfectly fork-tender meat and firm but tender carrots.

Preheat the oven to 325°F. Place the beef in a bowl and season with salt and pepper. In an ovenproof Dutch oven, heat 2 tablespoons oil over medium-high heat. Brown the beef in batches, without crowding it, and hold the browned beef on a plate. After all the beef is browned, reduce the heat to medium and add 1 tablespoon oil. Stir in the onion and garlic and cook for about 5 minutes to soften. Stir in the thyme and bay leaves. Add the stout or ale and the water and cook, stirring and scraping the browned bits of meat off the bottom of the pan. Add the browned meat and any accumulated juices and bring to a simmer. Cover and bake for 1½ hours. Carefully remove from the oven and stir in the carrots and celery. Re-cover and bake for another 45 minutes, until the carrots and beef are fork tender. Remove the bay leaves. Remove the excess fat from the pan juices. Serve warm.

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Fluffiest Mashed Potatoes makes about 8 servings

My mother makes the best mashed potatoes. When I was

3 pounds russet or Idaho potatoes 1 cup hot milk 2 tablespoons butter 1 teaspoon salt

growing up, Mom would stand at the sink and peel potatoes by the pound with a paring knife. To this day, she can’t peel potatoes with a vegetable peeler. My father loved the mashed potatoes made by their friend Bill Hinkle, so Bill taught my mom his mashed potato tricks, and she taught me. Mom has a few rules when it comes to fluffy mashed potatoes: Always use russet (Idaho) potatoes; they

Peel the potatoes, cut into large chunks, and place in a large pan. Cover with cold water and bring to a boil. Cook about 20 minutes, or until the potatoes are tender enough to be pierced with a fork. Drain the potatoes well and place the pan back on the stove on low heat to dry the potatoes a bit before mashing them. Be careful not to scorch the potatoes. Pour in the hot milk and whip the potatoes with an electric mixer until they are well blended. Add the butter and salt and continue whipping to melt the butter and remove any lumps.

have just the right starch content. Use hot milk to blend into the potatoes, for enhanced creaminess. Use an electric mixer for whipping the potatoes; although a handheld potato masher works in theory, the result might be lumpy, not fluffy, potatoes. Use an adequate amount of salt; like potato chips, mashed potatoes taste flat without salt, which brings out their flavor.   For a twist on potatoes with garlic and olive oil, try Olive Oil Mashed Potatoes (page 84).

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Cast-Iron Skillet Soda Bread makes one 10-inch round loaf

This soda bread has a thick batter like a quick bread, but it’s similar in texture to a scone. The flavor is best on the day it’s baked.

2 cups whole wheat flour 2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour ¼ cup old-fashioned oats 2 teaspoons baking soda 1½ teaspoons salt 1 large egg 2 tablespoons butter, melted 2¾ cups low-fat buttermilk Preheat the oven to 450°F. Rub a bit of oil in the bottom of a 10-inch cast-iron skillet to be sure the bread doesn’t stick. Stir together the whole wheat flour, all-purpose flour, oats, baking soda, and salt, blending well. In a separate bowl, mix together the egg, melted butter, and buttermilk. Pour the buttermilk mixture into the dry ingredients and stir to form a soft batter. Place the batter into the prepared skillet. With a knife, mark a deep cross on the surface of the dough. Bake for 15 minutes. Reduce the heat to 400°F and bake for another 25 minutes, or until the bread is a deep golden brown. Let the bread cool for a few minutes before cutting.

Kentucky Irish Coffee makes 1 serving

Prepare to have your fingers and toes warmed by this drink. If possible, enjoy it by the fire and share Irish folk

1 teaspoon brown sugar 6 ounces hot, dark-roast brewed coffee 1 tablespoon Kentucky bourbon 1 tablespoon Buffalo Trace Cream Liqueur or other whiskey cream liqueur Brown Sugar Bourbon Whipped Cream (page 69), for garnish

legends or listen to soothing Celtic music.

Spoon the sugar into the bottom of a coffee mug. Pour in the hot coffee and stir to dissolve the sugar. Mix in the bourbon and cream liqueur. Top with a large spoonful of whipped cream. Serve hot.

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Kids’ Favorite Suppers In our family, the month of March is filled with joy. We enjoy the daffodils and crocuses popping up throughout the neighborhood, but we also enjoy a double-dose of birthday celebrations. For each birthday I bake or cook a birthday snack to take to school, a birthday dinner to share at home, and a birthday cake—whatever the birthday boy or girl wants. In addition to the recipes presented here, which are favorites of my children, they also love White Bean Soup with Pasta and Kale (page 36), Mama Maggie’s Italian Meat Sauce (page 33) over spaghetti, and Ale-8 One Slow Cooker Pork Barbecue (page 175).

Pan-Roasted Salmon makes 4 servings

This recipe is simplicity at its finest. Buy fresh salmon from

Four 6-ounce center-cut salmon fillets 2 tablespoons olive oil, divided Kosher salt Freshly ground black pepper

a reputable seafood market, because with seafood, you get what you pay for. When panroasted, the salmon remains moist and succulent. Serve it with any of the following fresh sauces, depending on the season: Arugula Pesto (page 138), Fresh Parsley Sauce (page 24), Smoky Tomato Salsa (page 214), or Fresh Peach Salsa (page 213).

Brush both sides of the salmon fillets with olive oil and sprinkle with salt and pepper. In a large skillet, heat the remaining olive oil over medium-high heat until hot. Without crowding, place the fillets in the skillet, skin side up. Cook without moving for about 5 minutes, until the edges begin to crisp and the fillets start to cook toward the center. Turn the fillets and continue cooking for 4 more minutes, until just cooked through.

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Cola Pot Roast makes 6 servings

Allow at least 2 hours for the pot roast to marinate and then about 3 hours to cook it.

One 3- to 4-pound chuck roast One 12-ounce cola soda ½ cup reduced-sodium soy sauce or tamari 2 medium onions, chopped (about 3 cups) 8 cloves garlic, smashed 1 lemon, thinly sliced Freshly ground black pepper 2 tablespoons canola oil 8 carrots, peeled and sliced 2 tablespoons cornstarch ¼ cup water Place the chuck roast in a gallon-size zip-top bag, and stand the bag up in a large bowl. Pour the cola and soy sauce into the bag. Add the chopped onion, garlic, lemon, and pepper. Seal the bag and shake the ingredients to blend well. Refrigerate for at least 2 hours or overnight. Remove the roast from the marinade and pat dry with a paper towel. Preheat the oven to 325°F. In a Dutch oven, heat the oil over medium heat. Brown the roast on both sides. Add the marinade, and bring to a gentle boil. Cover the Dutch oven and bake for 2 hours. Remove from the oven and carefully remove the lid. Turn the roast and add the carrots. Return the roast to the oven and cook for another 30 minutes. When the carrots are soft, remove the meat to a platter. Remove the excess fat from the sauce, and bring the remaining sauce to a boil in the Dutch oven. Meanwhile, mix the cornstarch and water to make a paste. Stir the paste into the sauce to thicken. Slice the beef and serve it with gravy and vegetables on the side.

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Oven-Fried Boneless Chicken Thighs makes about 6 servings

Some laugh at the abundance of boneless poultry sold at the supermarket, as if chickens and turkeys don’t have bones. But what’s not to love about the convenience of a boneless

chicken 3 pounds fresh boneless chicken thighs (about 12 thighs) 1 cup low-fat buttermilk 2 cloves garlic, pressed 1 tablespoon spicy brown mustard ½ teaspoon salt Dash hot red pepper sauce 4 tablespoons (½ stick) butter, divided 4 tablespoons canola oil, divided

chicken breast or thigh? My favorite boneless cut is

breading

the chicken thigh because

1 cup unbleached all-purpose flour ½ cup yellow cornmeal 1 teaspoon chili powder ½ teaspoon garlic powder ½ teaspoon dried thyme ½ teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

of its rich flavor and tender meat. This recipe was tested with fresh boneless chicken thighs. If frozen thighs are used, thaw them first and pat them dry to remove excess moisture. When breading the chicken—or any other food, for that matter, such as Cornmeal-Crusted Fried Green Tomatoes (page 181)—use only one hand. This keeps the other hand clean for answering the phone, picking up a nearby dish, or opening the door to let the dog out.

Place the chicken thighs in a large baking dish. Mix together the buttermilk, garlic, mustard, salt, and pepper sauce. Pour the mixture over the chicken and turn it to coat the thighs. Cover and refrigerate for at least 2 hours. Preheat the oven to 425°F. In a shallow dish, combine the flour, cornmeal, chili powder, garlic powder, thyme, salt, and pepper. Prepare two rimmed baking sheets by placing 2 tablespoons butter and 2 tablespoons canola oil on each. Place the baking sheets in the oven to just heat the oil and melt the butter, but be careful not to burn the butter. One at a time, remove the chicken pieces from the buttermilk and let the excess drip off. Dredge the chicken in the flour mixture to coat on both sides. Place on a baking sheet and turn to coat with the melted butter. Repeat with the rest of the chicken, placing 6 thighs on each baking sheet. Bake for 30 to 35 minutes, or until cooked through.

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Platter Salad Bar Salad bars are enjoyable because everyone gets to fill their plates with whatever they like. A salad bar at home makes a nice addition to any meal, even when guests are invited. Arrange the items on a large platter or in individual bowls. Salad items I often use include baby spinach, arugula, or mixed greens; chopped celery; red pepper strips; grated carrot; shredded red cabbage; sliced hard-boiled eggs; roasted hulled sunflower seeds, pumpkin seeds, or cashews; homemade croutons (see Modern Caesar Salad with Salt and Pepper Croutons, page 67); shredded Cheddar or crumbled Feta; raisins or dried cranberries; and homemade dressings or vinaigrettes.

Garlic Roasted Broccoli with Almonds makes 6 servings

This recipe makes use of the oven to cook broccoli in a flavorful fashion.

1¼ pounds broccoli, cut into florets (about 8 cups) 4 tablespoons olive oil, divided ¼ teaspoon salt ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper ¼ cup sliced almonds 2 large cloves garlic, minced ¼ teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes Preheat the oven to 425°F. In a large bowl, toss together the broccoli and 2 tablespoons olive oil. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Transfer to a rimmed baking sheet and bake for 15 minutes.   Meanwhile, mix together the remaining 2 tablespoons oil, almonds, garlic, and red pepper flakes. After the broccoli has cooked 15 minutes, pour the oil mixture over the broccoli and shake the baking sheet to coat. Return to the oven and continue baking until the broccoli is browned, about 8 to 10 minutes. Serve hot.

march  83

Sweet Gingered Carrot Matchsticks makes 6 servings

When very thinly sliced, fresh carrots cook in about 10 minutes. This recipe adds color and texture to a

8 large carrots, peeled and cut into matchsticks or very thin slices 2 tablespoons olive oil 2 tablespoons brown sugar 1 teaspoon ground ginger ¼ teaspoon kosher salt

weeknight meal. The carrots “caramelize” when cooked over high heat, sweetening them with their own natural sugars. The brown sugar and ground ginger

In a large skillet, heat the oil over medium-high heat. Add the carrots and cook, stirring constantly, for 5 minutes. Cover and cook another 5 minutes, until the carrots are tender and caramelized. Stir in the brown sugar, ginger, and salt and heat until warm.

add spicy sweetness.

Olive Oil Mashed Potatoes makes about 6 servings

2 pounds all-purpose red or gold potatoes  6 cloves garlic, peeled

This recipes makes lumpy,

13

rustic mashed potatoes. The fresh garlic mellows and becomes sweet when boiled with the potatoes.

 

⁄ cup olive oil 1 teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper   Scrub the potatoes, but do not peel, and cut them into large chunks. Place the potatoes and garlic in a 2½-quart saucepan. Cover the potatoes with cold water and bring to a gentle boil. Reduce the heat and cook for about 25 minutes, or until the potatoes are tender when pierced with a fork. Reserve ¾ cup of the cooking liquid, and drain the rest off the potatoes. Add the olive oil, salt, pepper, and reserved cooking liquid to the potatoes. Mash with a handheld potato masher or a large fork. Taste and season with more salt and pepper if desired.

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Friday Night Fish Fry Growing up in landlocked Central Kentucky, needless to say my family and I weren’t out forging romantic seafood experiences by deep-sea fishing or trapping crustaceans at the break of day. Salmon was served out of a can: combined with cracker crumbs, shaped into patties, and fried in a cast-iron skillet. Cod came in a frozen rectangular block, and after peeling the box off the folded fillets, Mom baked the fish with paprika and lemon juice. On a rare occasion, Mom would fry shrimp for my dad. Once she fried enough for the whole family, but with ten hungry mouths and only one Fry Daddy, this was no small feat. During Lent, we abstain from eating meat on Friday. For this reason, the Lenten tradition of fish fries has grown. In Northern Kentucky alone, more than twenty churches, civic clubs, and veterans’ posts host fish fries on Friday nights during Lent. Louisville and Owensboro, where Catholic populations also flourish, are no strangers to fish fries either. In addition to the hot fish and steaming side dishes, fish fries are lively social events. The money raised goes to sports teams or the scouts, and local politicians appear to shake hands and kiss babies. Whether the line for food is long or not, the fish is hot and the beer is cold. And there is an abundance of children running around at the feet of parents and grandparents. When we go to our local fish fry, we order a setup: a fish fillet meal with two sides, an order of fries, and a slice of white or rye sandwich bread. We select from coleslaw, macaroni and cheese, green beans, and hush puppies. And don’t forget the dollar light beers, which might be the reason the “faithful” attend these Friday fish fries during Lent. On nights we stay home, we have a fish fry of our own, with a menu like this one.

menu Almond-Crusted Grouper Sandwiches Mustard-Caper Tartar Sauce Creamy Penne and Cheese Sunflower Slaw (page 180) Stone-Ground Cornmeal Hush Puppies Shaker Lemon Pie

march  85

Almond-Crusted Grouper Sandwiches makes 4 sandwiches

This recipe is a pan-fried alternative to deep-fried fish. If grouper is not available, cod, tilapia, walleye, and trout also make a fine sandwich. This was inspired by a recipe from Marshall

Four 6-ounce grouper fillets ½ teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper ½ cup sliced almonds ½ cup Panko (Japanese) bread crumbs ½ cup milk ¼ cup canola oil 4 whole-grain sandwich buns 1 cup sliced romaine lettuce

Field’s Department Store.

Generously season the fish on both sides with salt and pepper. Have ready two shallow bowls or pie pans. In the bowl of a food processor fitted with a metal blade, combine the almonds and bread crumbs. Pulse until chopped but not finely ground. Transfer to a shallow bowl. Pour the milk in the other shallow bowl. Dip the fish in the milk, then in the almond breading, coating both sides evenly. In a large skillet, heat the oil over medium-high heat. When the oil is hot, add the fish in batches, if necessary, to avoid crowding, and cook for 3 to 4 minutes on each side, until the breading is golden and the fish is cooked through. Place each piece of fish on a bun and top with romaine and Mustard-Caper Tartar Sauce (page 87).

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Mustard-Caper Tartar Sauce makes about 1 cup

This tartar sauce is good with any type of fish cake, crab cake, or fish fillet. If capers aren’t available, substitute old-fashioned dill relish.

½ cup mayonnaise ¼ cup capers 2 tablespoons Dijon mustard 2 tablespoons chopped red or green onion Juice of ½ lemon ¼ teaspoon dried dill weed ½ teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper Dash hot sauce In a bowl, mix all the ingredients until well blended. Refrigerate until ready to serve.

Creamy Penne and Cheese makes about 8 servings

One of my pet peeves is the bright-orange processed macaroni and cheese out of a box that so many young children eat during their formative years. I know

1 pound (4 cups) penne pasta 1 tablespoon butter 2 cups milk 2 large eggs ½ teaspoon Dijon mustard, optional ¾ teaspoon salt Dash hot red pepper sauce 8 ounces (2 cups) shredded Cheddar or Colby

kids love cheesy pasta, so I created this easy recipe using everyday ingredients.

Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Add the pasta and cook until tender, about 11 minutes. Drain the pasta and stir in the butter. Over low heat, add the milk, eggs, mustard, salt, and red pepper sauce. Cook, stirring, for about 5 to 7 minutes, until hot and steamy. Stir in the cheese and keep stirring until thick and creamy. Do not allow to boil.

march  87

Stone-Ground Cornmeal Hush Puppies makes about 36 hush puppies

Hush puppies are the classic accompaniment to a fish dinner, with the wholesome goodness of Kentucky cornmeal.

Canola oil 2 cups stone-ground cornmeal 1 tablespoon sugar 1 teaspoon baking powder 1 teaspoon baking soda 1 teaspoon salt ¼ cup minced onion 1 cup low-fat buttermilk 1 large egg Preheat the oven to 200°F. Line a rimmed baking sheet with paper towels. In a large, heavy saucepan, heat 1½ inches of canola oil to 375°F.   Meanwhile, in a bowl, whisk the cornmeal, sugar, baking powder, baking soda, and salt together. Stir in the minced onion. In another bowl, mix the buttermilk and egg until well blended. Make a hole in the middle of the cornmeal and pour in the buttermilk. Stir to blend. Working in batches, drop the batter from a tablespoon into the hot oil, without overcrowding the pan. Let cook for about 2 minutes, or until the underside is golden brown. With a wooden chopstick or slotted spoon, flip the hush puppies and continue cooking for about 2 minutes, until golden brown. Use the slotted spoon to remove the hush puppies to the paper towel–lined baking sheet. Keep warm in the oven until ready to serve.

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Shaker Lemon Pie makes one 9-inch pie

Sometimes called Ohio Lemon Pie, this unique pie uses whole

One 9-inch All-Butter Pie Crust (page 90) 2 lemons, washed and carefully sliced paper thin 2 cups sugar 4 eggs

sliced lemons. Adapted from The Shaker Cookbook by Caroline B. Piercy, this pie is a favorite my family enjoyed growing up. Winter is prime season for lemons. Lemons, although not grown in Kentucky, are available from surrounding states such as California, Texas, and Florida. Even though the Shakers who settled at Pleasant Hill raised most of their own food, they

In a bowl, combine the lemons and sugar. Stir well, cover, and let sit for 2 hours.   Preheat the oven to 425°F. Line a 9-inch glass pie plate with the pie crust. Place prepared pie shell on a rimmed baking sheet. In a bowl mix the lemon and sugar mixture with the eggs. Pour into prepared pie shell. Bake for 15 minutes. Reduce oven temperature to 350°F and bake for about 40 more minutes, until the pie no longer jiggles in the middle when the pan is gently moved back and forth. Let cool before slicing.

also knew the power of a lemon in cooking and in preventing scurvy, a disease resulting from vitamin C deficiency. The Shakers had a thriving business of trading seeds and other handcrafted items for food they were unable to grow. Lemons are a good example of food they “imported.” For best results, slice the lemons as thin as possible, and let the sugar and lemons stew for at least 2 hours before mixing the filling. Top a slice of pie with Sour Cream Whipped Cream (page 242) if desired.

march  89

All-Butter Pie Crust makes one 9-inch pie crust

Supermarkets sell refrigerated pie crusts, pie crust mixes, and the ever-popular

½ cup (1 stick) butter, cut into 1-inch slices 1½ cups unbleached all-purpose flour 1 teaspoon sugar ½ teaspoon salt 3 to 4 tablespoons ice water

frozen pie shells. I believe making homemade pie crust is a dying art. I’m determined not to lose this skill, and this is my favorite all-purpose crust recipe. My crusts turn out better every time I make one.

Place the butter in the freezer to chill. Meanwhile, blend the flour, sugar, and salt in a food processor with the metal blade. Add the butter and pulse the processor on and off until the butter is the size of large peas. With the processor running, drizzle in the water. Stop processing when the dough starts to form a ball. Do not overmix. Place the dough onto a large piece of plastic wrap. Fold the plastic wrap over and around the dough to seal, and press the dough into the shape of a disc. Refrigerate for at least 1 hour.   After the dough has chilled, unwrap and place it on a lightly floured surface. Roll into an 11-inch circle and place the dough into a 9-inch pie pan. To flute the edge, use the index finger of one hand to push the dough between the thumb and index finger of the other hand, forming U-shaped indentations about 1 inch apart around the entire edge. Refrigerate until ready to fill.

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More Fish-Fry Favorites Here are a couple more fish recipes, along with a tasty brownie dessert.

Pecan-Crusted Kentucky Rainbow Trout makes about 4 servings

Known for its pink flesh, beauty, and gaminess, rainbow trout is a favorite among anglers. Dale

Four 1-pound rainbow trout, butterflied 2 cups pecan pieces, toasted 1 cup unbleached all-purpose flour ½ teaspoon salt ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper ¼ cup (½ stick) butter

Hollow Lake and Laurel River Lake in Kentucky both have healthy populations of trout.

Preheat the oven to 350°F. In a food processor fitted with the metal blade, chop the pecans until they are almost flour-like. Pour into a shallow bowl. Mix in the flour, salt, and pepper. In a large skillet, heat the butter over medium heat. Dredge the flesh side of the trout in the flour and pecan mixture. Place in the skillet, pecan side down, and cook until golden brown, about 2 minutes. Turn the fillet and cook for 2 more minutes. Remove the fish from the skillet and place in a 13×9×2-inch baking pan, pecan side up. Bake for 8 to 10 minutes to finish cooking.

march  91

Hearty Catfish Cakes makes about 8 fish cakes

These fish cakes make a filling seafood dinner and can be served with Mustard-Caper Tartar Sauce (page 87) or Smoky Remoulade Sauce (page 262). To serve as an appetizer or hors d’oeuvre, divide the mixture into 16 tiny patties. Crab or imitation crab can be substi-

1 pound cooked, flaked catfish ¼ cup thinly sliced green onion 1 large egg 3 tablespoons mayonnaise 1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard 1 teaspoon Spicy Seasoning Mix (below) or other seafood seasoning Juice of 1 lemon ½ cup saltine cracker crumbs (from 14 square saltine crackers) 2 tablespoons canola oil 2 tablespoons butter

tuted for the catfish.

In a large bowl, mix together the catfish and green onion. In a small bowl, blend together the egg, mayonnaise, Worcestershire sauce, Dijon, Spicy Seasoning Mix, and lemon juice. Gently fold it into the catfish, along with the cracker crumbs. Shape into 8 patties and refrigerate while heating the oil and butter in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the fish cakes, in batches, and cook about 5 minutes on each side, until golden brown and hot throughout. Keep warm until served.

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Spicy Seasoning Mix makes about ¼ cup

For a fresh alternative to store-bought Cajun or Creole spice mixes, I mix one batch at a time and

2 tablespoons sweet paprika 1 tablespoon garlic powder 1½ teaspoons dried thyme ¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper 1½ teaspoons salt 1½ teaspoons freshly ground black pepper

store it in a jar. In addition to Hearty Catfish Cakes (above), I use it for Peel-’n’-

Mix all the ingredients together and store in an airtight container.

Eat Barbecue Shrimp (page 236), Roasted Potatoes with Garlic and Parsley (page 134), and Shrimp and Creamy Grits (page 235).

march  93

One-Pan Pecan Brownies makes one 11×7-inch pan of brownies

These brownies can be mixed as quickly as a box mix. The brown sugar adds richness and complements the chocolate.

⁄ cup unbleached all-purpose flour ½ teaspoon baking powder ½ teaspoon salt ½ cup (1 stick) butter ½ cup unsweetened cocoa powder ½ cup packed light or dark brown sugar ½ cup granulated sugar 2 large eggs 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract ½ cup semisweet chocolate chips ½ cup chopped pecans

23

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Spray an 11×7-inch baking pan with nonstick cooking spray. Measure the flour, baking powder, and salt in a bowl. Whisk to blend and set aside. Melt the butter in a saucepan over low heat. Remove the pan from the heat and whisk in the cocoa powder, brown sugar, and granulated sugar until well combined. Let it cool to the touch. Stir in the eggs and vanilla until well blended. Using a silicone spatula, fold in the flour mixture, chocolate chips, and pecans. Spread the batter evenly in the prepared pan. Bake for 18 to 20 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean. Be sure not to overbake. Cool on a rack.

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April I now look down on the level bottom which I intend to plant in garden, to make vegetables grow there in place of the weeds that are flourishing now.—harlan hubbard, payne hollow journal

With April, spring bursts full force in Kentucky. Blooms and flowers welcome the spring rain. For my family, spring break takes us to a state park for a long weekend or on a hike to enjoy the woods and the emerging Kentucky wildflowers. April offers some of the prettiest, albeit the wettest, days of the year. Warren remembers collecting watercress on spring days along the creek on Domino Stud Farm, where he grew up, and I remember the beauty of the weeping cherry trees at the Lexington Cemetery. No doubt, our Kentucky pioneers enjoyed the month of April as much as we do. Blooms, buds, and warm air signal the arrival of wild mushrooms and wild ramps on the mountain floors. To them, the fresh taste of wild food must have been a welcome addition to the dwindling supplies in their larder as winter finally ended. Keeneland race course, in Lexington, opens for its spring meet in April. Visitors from around the world flock to watch the Thoroughbreds race in arguably one of the most scenic racetracks in the world while eating burgoo and barbecue, sipping bourbon, and perusing the racing form.

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With the unpredictable nighttime temperatures, April is still too early to plant delicate annuals and tender garden vegetables, although the bright, sunny days try to convince me to get a jump on the planting. April is a good time to select and plant fruit trees, berries, perennial vegetables such as asparagus and rhubarb, and hardy garden vegetables such as peas, carrots, beets, spinach, cauliflower, cabbage, potatoes, radishes, parsnips, and onions. Many outdoor Kentucky farmers’ markets open at the end of April. Kentucky-grown asparagus can appear as early as late April. There was a time when I ate asparagus year-round, and therefore from around the world. Now I wait to enjoy asparagus in April and May, when it’s grown in and around Kentucky and enjoys a short but plentiful season.

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Good Morning Food There is nothing simpler than a fresh egg. Considered the perfect protein, eggs are a staple in any well-stocked kitchen. Despite what supermarkets would like us to believe, local eggs are plentiful, and most store-bought eggs cannot compete with the freshness and flavor of farm-fresh eggs. Farmers’ markets often showcase local egg vendors. To find sources of local eggs, see page 9.

Baked Eggs with Parmesan and Herbs makes 6 servings

These individual baked eggs topped with a mix of cheese and herbs are elegant when served with champagne.

1½ teaspoons herbes de Provence 2 tablespoons grated Parmesan 1 teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper ¾ cup half-and-half, divided 2 tablespoons butter, divided 6 large eggs Preheat the oven to 450°F. Position a rack in the middle of the oven. Place 6 ovenproof ramekins or shallow ovenproof baking dishes on a baking sheet and spray the dishes with nonstick cooking spray. In a bowl, mix together the herbes de Provence, Parmesan, salt, and pepper, and set aside. Put 2 tablespoons half-and-half and 1 teaspoon butter in each ramekin. Place the ramekins in the oven to preheat the dishes and melt the butter. Remove the dishes from the oven and, working as quickly as possible, crack 1 egg into each dish. Sprinkle each egg with 1 teaspoon of the cheese mixture. Bake in the oven until the eggs are set, about 5 to 7 minutes. Serve immediately.

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Wild Mushrooms I’m not an experienced mushroom forager, but I know people who are, and I’ve seen their joy at discovering these edible treasures in the woods. I respect their craft and their knowledge, since one can’t cook or eat every mushroom and puffball found growing in the wild. Only experienced mushroom hunters can distinguish poisonous mushrooms from edible ones. I am curious enough about mushrooms to be intrigued by the Mountain Mushroom Festival. Traditionally held on the last weekend in April in Irvine— “where the Bluegrass meets the mountains”—this festival showcases the edible bounty of mountain forests, where the moist, fertile floor creates the optimal microclimate for wild mushrooms to grow. Complete with a mushroom market, mushroom cook-off, interviews with mushroom hunters, morel and shiitake cooking demonstrations, and a contest for the largest mushrooms, this is the place to learn about wild mushrooms in Kentucky. Sheltowee Farm, located in Bath County, began producing mushrooms in 2002. A small, family-owned farm in the heart of Daniel Boone National Forest, Sheltowee specializes in growing shiitake and oyster mushrooms. Depending on availability, they also sell morel, chanterelle, hen of woods, and chicken of the woods mushrooms.

Mushroom and Asparagus Skillet Frittata makes about 8 servings

A flat omelet baked in a cast-iron skillet is as good as quiche and a lot simpler to prepare.

8 large eggs ½ cup milk ½ cup shredded Parmesan ¼ teaspoon salt ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper ¼ cup fresh snipped chives 1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme 3 tablespoons olive oil 8 ounces mushrooms, sliced ¾ pound asparagus, trimmed and cut into small pieces Salt and pepper to taste Preheat the broiler to 400°F. In a bowl, beat the eggs and milk. Add the Parmesan, salt, pepper, chives, and thyme. In a 10-inch cast-iron skillet, heat the oil over medium-high heat. Add the mushrooms and cook while stirring for about 3 minutes, until they release their juice. Add the asparagus and cook for 5 minutes, until the asparagus are bright green. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Evenly spread the asparagus and mushrooms in the bottom of the skillet. Pour in the eggs, but do not stir. Reduce the heat to medium and cook for about 6 minutes, until the frittata is set on the bottom. Place under the broiler for 3 to 4 minutes, or until the eggs are cooked and lightly browned on top. Cut into wedges and serve.

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Hiking Food When the weather warms up and the wildflowers bloom, a hike is a good way to soak in the fresh air, exercise winter-weary muscles, and listen to the sounds of a Kentucky forest. Pack a cooler and keep it in the car for a meal upon your return, or for those who don’t mind carrying a pack, the following items can provide sustenance during a short hike. For other ideas, see Portable Foods in the June chapter and Brown-Bag Lunches in the August chapter.

Muffulettas makes about 6 servings

Inspired by the famous sandwich from Central Grocery in New Orleans, this sandwich is dressed with a spicy olive relish. Muffulettas travel well,

olive relish ½ cup kalamata or black olives ½ cup pimiento-stuffed olives 1 rib celery, chopped 2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley 2 cloves garlic, crushed 1 teaspoon dried oregano or 1 tablespoon fresh 1⁄3 cup olive oil

and there is no need for any other condiments

sandwich

because the olives, herbs,

1-pound loaf French or Italian bread ¼ pound sliced Provolone ¾ pound thinly sliced ham, turkey, roast beef, or other meat 2 ounces sliced capicola ham or salami

and oil add moisture and flavor.

To make the relish, in a food processor with the metal blade, pulse the olives, celery, parsley, garlic, oregano, and olive oil until well chopped and combined. To make the sandwich, slice the loaf of bread in half lengthwise. If desired, pinch some of the bread out of both halves to remove some of the bulk. Layer the Provolone and meats on the bottom half of the bread. Spread generously with olive relish. Add the top of the sandwich and serve immediately, or wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate until ready to serve.

april  101

White Cheddar Pimiento Cheese Sandwiches makes about 2 cups cheese spread, enough for 8 sandwiches

Sometimes called the “peanut butter of the South,” “p’minnuh” cheese is a cousin of beer cheese (see page 154). My mother makes traditional yellow

8 ounces sharp white Cheddar, grated (about 2 cups) ½ cup mayonnaise One 4-ounce jar diced pimientos, drained 1 tablespoon grated sweet onion ½ teaspoon smoked paprika ¼ teaspoon salt ¼ teaspoon hot red pepper sauce 16 slices dense white or whole wheat sandwich bread 1 small sweet onion, very thinly sliced, optional 1 cup watercress sprigs, thick stems discarded, optional

pimiento cheese to spread on crackers, fill a crisp stalk of celery, or make into a sandwich. My variation uses white Cheddar and smoked paprika and is hand-stirred for a roughand-ready texture. If desired, all yellow or a mix of

In a bowl, stir together the Cheddar, mayonnaise, pimientos, grated onion, paprika, salt, and hot red pepper sauce. Arrange 8 slices of bread on a counter. Spread ¼ cup pimiento cheese on each slice of bread. Garnish with sliced onion and watercress, if desired, and top with the remaining bread slices. Using a serrated knife, cut off the crust, cut the sandwiches into rectangles or triangles, and wrap in wax paper.

white and yellow Cheddar can be substituted. Serve

variation: Grilled White Cheddar Pimiento Cheese

plain on white bread, and

Sandwiches with Tomato This won’t work on a hike, but try this grilled version at home. Make the pimiento cheese as above, and spread ¼ cup on a slice of bread. Top with a large slice of fresh tomato and the remaining slice of bread. Brush the bread with melted butter or olive oil. On a preheated griddle, grill slowly until both sides are golden brown and the cheese is melted.

wrap the sandwich in wax paper to re-create the favorite sandwich of the Masters Golf Tournament. For a refreshing accompaniment, serve with a tall glass of Arnold Palmer (page 185).

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Hiking in the Great Smoky Mountains When I was in the fifth grade, my parents broke from tradition. Instead of loading our red station wagon and driving to a sandy beach in Florida, we headed for the Great Smoky Mountains. Past Pigeon Forge and Gatlinburg, what lies beyond is a stunning work of God. The Great Smoky Mountains, covered with ferns, rhododendron, and stately old trees, are a true national treasure. My father navigated the trip like a pro. Edging ever so slowly up the winding roads and through the hairpin turns, we reached our destination as the sun dropped over the mountain. My parents had scored a coup, renting an A-frame chalet nestled in the woods. It was decked out in the latest 1970s décor, complete with a woodsy smell, a large stone hearth, and a loft. Early the next morning we spotted a swimming pool a short walk from the chalet, but our mother (a mermaid in her past life) reminded us that for this trip we had sacrificed water play so we could explore the mountains. And explore we did. It wasn’t long before Dad announced that he was taking us on a hike—not a short quarter-miler but a six-miler, three miles in and three miles out. Dad, a civil engineer, loved to read maps and plan things. So far away from his fluorescent-lit office, he drew up a plan for his young family: we were headed to the top of Clingmans Dome. Our family stood in formation beside the trail marker for one last photo before we took off. On our heads we wore assorted shades of red and blue bandanas to keep the ticks out of our hair. One older sister had on her Girl Scout uniform, as if her fire-building skills might come in handy if we met a black bear. Mom looked a little weary. Knowing what I now know as a mother, I’m sure she was wondering how to keep us all together—especially when the ages of the hikers ranged from forty-three to six. Although I don’t remember all particulars about the hike, I do remember the snack Dad carried in his daypack. (My father loved to snack. For my children, a trip to my parents’ house wasn’t complete until they had surveyed and sampled the assortment of snacks sitting by their grandfather’s large leather recliner—Junior Mints, white popcorn, miniature Snickers bars.) That day on the trail, Dad shared a large bag of gorp with us. The mixture of salt and sugar was just what our young taste buds needed to keep us moving and what our bellies needed to hold us over until we got back to the car (where a picnic lunch was waiting). My sister, the Girl Scout, shared her canteen. The fact that the water tasted like wet nickels was inconsequential. As we shared food and drink that day, amid the tall trees of the Great Smoky Mountains, far from the beach and the surf, we were a family. Those memories are forever etched in my mind, thanks to my sister and her canteen, and my dad and his bag of gorp.

running foot  103

How to Freeze Baked Cookies Arrange cooled cookies in small stacks of three to four cookies. Place the stacks of cookies in a gallon-size zip-top freezer bag and seal it, pushing out the air as the bag is sealed. Cookies can be kept frozen for up to a month.

Everything Cookies makes about forty-eight 2-inch cookies

These are called “everything” because that’s what they contain—oats, nuts, seeds, chocolate chips, and raisins. For a monster-size cookie, use ¼ cup dough and bake for 22 to 24 minutes.

2½ cups old-fashioned oats 3 cups all-purpose flour 11⁄3 cups sugar 1 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon baking soda 2 large eggs 1½ cups canola oil ½ cup warm water  2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract 2⁄3 cup roasted, hulled sunflower seeds 1 cup slivered almonds 1 cup semisweet chocolate chips 2⁄3 cup chopped walnuts or pecans 2⁄3 cup raisins or dried cherries Preheat the oven to 325°F. Line three baking sheets with parchment paper. In a bowl, mix the oats, flour, sugar, salt, and baking soda. In another bowl, combine the eggs, oil, water, and vanilla. Stir into the dry ingredients; then stir in the seeds, nuts, chocolate chips, and raisins. Drop by heaping tablespoon onto the prepared baking sheets. Bake 15 to 17 minutes, or until the edges are firm but barely browned. Let cool on the pan for 5 minutes. Move to a wire rack to cool completely.

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Easter Sunday Easter is the first big holiday celebration of the year in our family. We gather in Lexington, where the children hunt for eggs filled with candy, money, and other trinkets. The Easter buffet highlights the tender, fresh foods of spring and, of course, eggs for new life and new hope.

menu Honey Bourbon Glazed Ham Roasted Asparagus Spring Salad with Poppy Seed Dressing Guacamole Deviled Eggs Linen-Napkin Dinner Rolls Italian Cream Sheet Cake

Kentucky City Ham Country ham is a family tradition during the Christmas holiday (see page 315). At Easter, hams are also featured prominently on Kentucky menus, but here the favorite choice is often a “city ham.” City hams are often smoked and cooked, but unlike country hams, they aren’t salt cured. One of my favorite city hams is the Kentucky Legend ham made in Owensboro. Hand selected and hand trimmed, these hams are slow-cooked in their own natural juices and then double smoked to achieve their “legendary” taste. Spiral cut and boneless, this ham can be the traditional entrée for Easter dinner or served on homemade biscuits on Kentucky Derby Day. During November, Kentucky Legend hosts its Kentucky Legend Ham Hotline, similar to the Butterball Turkey Hotline. Ham experts man the phones to provide cooks across the country preparation suggestions, ham-baking solutions and troubleshooting , “recipe tips, seasoning tips, and even dinner disaster alternatives.”

april  105

Honey Bourbon Glazed Ham makes one 6- to 8-pound ham

Inspired by a recipe from Nigella Lawson, this one uses a glaze flavored with honey, mustard, and bourbon to make a sweet crust on a salty ham. It’s even better cold for sandwiches

One 6- to 8-pound fully cooked boneless ham Three 12-ounce cans Coca-Cola or other cola soda 1 large onion, thickly sliced ¼ cup honey ½ cup dark brown sugar 2 tablespoons Kentucky bourbon 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard ¼ teaspoon ground ginger ¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon 1⁄8 teaspoon ground cloves

the next day, slathered with mayonnaise or served on soft, flaky buttermilk biscuits.

Place the ham, cola, and onion in a Dutch oven and bring to a boil over medium heat. Cover, reduce the heat to a simmer, and cook for about 1 hour, or until the internal temperature is 140°F. Meanwhile, mix the honey, brown sugar, bourbon, mustard, and spices in a small bowl, and ready a roasting pan with a rack. Near the end of the hour, preheat the oven to 425°F. When the ham has reached 140°F, transfer it to the roasting pan. With a small, sharp knife, make crisscross cuts in the surface of the ham about ¼-inch deep. Smear the glaze mixture over the top of the ham and bake for about 20 minutes, until the glaze is set.

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Asparagus Despite its year-round appearance in supermarkets, asparagus is in season and at its peak in the spring. Asparagus crowns send up spears for only about six to seven weeks, so it’s important to be on the lookout for fresh Kentucky-grown asparagus beginning in mid- to late April. The best place to buy local asparagus is at a local produce market or farmers’ market. Like any produce, if it’s not marked, I ask where the vegetables are grown. Just like growing garlic, growing asparagus is a lesson in patience. The crown produces its first asparagus spears about three years after the initial planting. A well-cared-for asparagus plant produces fresh spears every spring for up to fifteen years, without replanting. With good growing conditions, asparagus crowns are quite prolific and can grow as much as ten inches in twenty-four hours. I used to believe that pencil-thin spears were best, but in reality, larger-diameter asparagus has a meatier, richer flavor. Pencil-thin spears are the product of an immature plant, and their flavor pales in comparison to that of the thicker spears of a healthy, more mature plant. I wrap asparagus stalks in a damp paper towel or cloth, place them in a plastic bag, and store them in the refrigerator crisper. Before cooking, rinse the asparagus and, using both hands, snap off the fibrous base. Theoretically, the stalk breaks at the point where it starts to get too tough to eat. For a dose of Kentucky asparagus, visit Mays Lick, also known as the “Asparagus Bed of Mason County,” for the Mays Lick Asparagus Festival, held on the third Saturday in May. Burrwall Farm in Mays Lick harvests and sells fresh asparagus from mid-April to the first of June.

Roasted Asparagus makes 4 servings

This simple recipe reinforces the idea that high-quality ingredients prepared at

1 pound fresh asparagus, trimmed 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar ½ teaspoon kosher salt ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

their peak of freshness require very little to make them shine.

Place the asparagus in a single layer on a rimmed baking sheet. Drizzle the asparagus with the oil and vinegar. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Place the baking sheet in the oven and turn it on to 425°F. Cook for 15 minutes. Shake the baking sheet to roll the asparagus around, and continue cooking for 10 more minutes, until tender.

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Spring Salad with Poppy Seed Dressing makes 6 servings

Strawberries, mushrooms, and peas are the seasonal produce highlights of spring in Kentucky.

salad 5 ounces mixed salad greens or baby spinach (about 5 cups) ½ small red onion, thinly sliced (about ½ cup) 1 cup sliced strawberries ½ cup sliced mushrooms ¼ cup snow pea pods, thinly sliced on the diagonal ¼ cup sliced almonds, toasted

dressing ¼ cup fresh lemon juice (about 2 lemons) 2 tablespoons Kentucky honey 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard ½ teaspoon poppy seeds ¼ teaspoon salt ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper Place the spinach or salad greens in a large salad bowl. For the dressing, whisk together the lemon juice, honey, olive oil, mustard, poppy seeds, salt, and pepper. Add half the dressing to the greens, and toss to coat. Mix in the onion, strawberries, mushrooms, pea pods, and almonds. Add more dressing and toss to coat. Serve any extra dressing on the side.

april  109

Guacamole Deviled Eggs makes 24 deviled eggs

Whether they’re called stuffed, salad, or dressed eggs (the word dressed is used in the South to avoid dignifying the word devil at church functions), it’s a challenge to find someone who doesn’t adore deviled eggs. I

12 extra-large or jumbo eggs ½ avocado, peeled and mashed 2 tablespoons mayonnaise 2 tablespoons minced red onion Juice of ½ lime ½ teaspoon ground cumin ½ teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper Cilantro leaves, for garnish

use extra-large or jumbo eggs. They’re not much more expensive than large, plus they have more yolk and a bigger white to work with. This variation adds an avocado and lime juice for guacamole richness. Deviled eggs are slippery little devils. Invest in a deviled egg plate or carrier to transport eggs to a party or picnic. For the Easter table, use an egg platter, with indentations to hold the stuffed eggs, or lay the stuffed eggs on a plate lined with finely shred-

Place the eggs in a saucepan and cover with water. Bring the water to a boil and then reduce to a simmer. Cook the eggs until the yolk is completely set, about 15 to 17 minutes. Drain and run cold tap water over the eggs to cool. Cover with cold water to cool further, or place in the refrigerator. Peel the eggs, cut them in half lengthwise, and scoop the yolks into a bowl. With an electric mixer, beat the avocado, mayonnaise, red onion, lime juice, cumin, salt, and pepper into the yolks. Use a small spoon, a scoop, or a piping bag to fill each egg white with the yolk mixture. Place on a paper towel–lined tray and keep chilled until ready to serve. Garnish each egg with cilantro right before serving.

ded red cabbage for a pretty presentation.

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Linen-Napkin Dinner Rolls makes about 24 rolls

Growing up, we rarely set our table with cloth napkins. There were too many mouths to feed and too much laundry even without

3½ cups unbleached all-purpose flour 1 teaspoon salt 1 package (2¼ teaspoons) instant or quick-rise yeast 1 cup milk 3 tablespoons sugar 3 tablespoons butter 1 large egg

the fuss of cloth napkins. So, when Mom broke out the white cloth dinner napkins, which she kept folded in the dining room sideboard, it meant one thing— hot dinner rolls were on the way. A light yeast roll is a Kentucky tradition, and as the late cookbook author Edna Lewis said, “Served hot from the oven, they are light as a dandelion in a high wind.”

In a large bowl, mix together the flour, salt, and yeast. In a saucepan over low heat, warm the milk, sugar, and butter just until the butter is melted. Let cool to about 110°F. Whisk in the egg. With the dough hook of a heavyduty electric mixer, mix the flour mixture and the milk mixture. Beat until a sticky dough forms. Spray a clean bowl with nonstick cooking spray. Turn the dough in the bowl and cover with a clean cloth or plastic wrap. Let rise until doubled in bulk, about 1 to 1½ hours. Punch down the dough. Break off golf ball–sized pieces of dough and shape into balls. Place the balls, with their edges touching, in an 11×7-inch baking pan sprayed with nonstick cooking spray. Cover and let rise until doubled in bulk, about 1 to 1½ hours. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Bake about 15 to 17 minutes, or until golden brown. Serve warm.

april  111

Italian Cream Sheet Cake makes 1 sheet cake

This recipe is adapted from two different, yet similar, recipes for layer cakes. The first recipe for Italian Cream Cake was given to me by my friend Mary Kay Mitchell. My father clipped the second recipe, for Black Walnut Cake, from the

1 cup (2 sticks) butter 2 cups sugar 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract 5 large eggs 2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour 1 teaspoon baking soda ½ teaspoon salt 1 cup low-fat buttermilk 1 cup shredded coconut, optional 1 cup chopped pecans Vanilla Bean Cream Cheese Frosting (page 193)

Lexington Herald-Leader. When I compared the recipes, the only difference was the type of nut used. So this cake is obviously a Kentucky favorite with several variations. To make the cake a bit less fussy and easier to transport, I turned it into a sheet cake and eliminated the step for separating the eggs.

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Spray a 13×9×2-inch pan with nonstick cooking spray with flour. With an electric mixer, beat the butter until light and fluffy, about 3 minutes. Add the sugar and beat for 5 minutes. Add the eggs one at a time and beat well. Combine the flour, baking soda, and salt in a small bowl. Add to the creamed mixture alternately with the buttermilk, beginning and ending with flour. Stir in the coconut and chopped pecans. Pour the batter into the prepared pan. Bake for 45 to 50 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean. Let cool in the pan. When cool, frost with Vanilla Bean Cream Cheese Frosting.

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Fresh Salads and Dressings Fresh-from-the-garden salad greens are available in the early spring and early fall, when cooler weather supports the growth of delicate leaves. Garden-fresh greens are well worth the search. Or, for those so inspired, it’s easy to poke a few seeds in the ground and grow them at home. The supermarket, of course, sells lettuces and other greens all year long. When I buy salad greens at the supermarket, I choose organic, if available. Whether from the garden or the supermarket, all fresh greens need to be washed. Garden-fresh greens contain more sand or grit than their bagged counterparts, but bagged greens—even those that proclaim they are prewashed or triple-washed— run the risk of bacterial contamination, so it’s important to wash them as well. The secret to a well-balanced salad is a blend of contrasting ingredients and the right amount (not too much) of a simple, fresh dressing. A homemade dressing can be as simple as an oil and an acid. Lemon juice, red wine vinegar, balsamic vinegar, and other vinegars are frequently used for the acid, and olive, canola, sesame, grapeseed, and peanut oils are common. When dressing a salad, the goal is to add just enough dressing to complement the salad ingredients, but not so much that there’s a pool of dressing at the bottom of the bowl. I find that the easiest way to dress a salad with vinaigrette or a creamy dressing is to pour a small amount (perhaps half a recipe) on the salad greens and then toss gently. More dressing can be added if needed, or the extra dressing can be served on the side.

april  113

Washing Salad Greens Place the greens in a large colander. Rinse with cool running water, gently lifting and rotating the greens as they are rinsed. To dry, use a salad spinner, or pat dry with a clean tea towel or paper towels. Tear larger leaves into bite-sized pieces. This avoids the discoloration that cutting with a knife can sometimes cause. The tender stems of young greens such as spinach and arugula are edible. About 1 ounce of greens equals 1 cup—enough for an adult-size portion. Gritty or sandy greens such as spinach or arugula require more careful washing. Place them in a large bowl of lukewarm water, swish them around, and then gently lift out the greens and place in a colander. The sand will settle at the bottom of the bowl, leaving little, if any, on the greens.

Wilted Lettuce with Hot Bacon Vinaigrette makes about 6 servings

I found this recipe, handwritten in pencil, on a yellowed card in my grandmother’s recipe box. The soft lettuce, crisp bacon, and hot dressing combine to make a Kentucky favorite,

4 slices bacon, about ¼ pound 2 heads Bibb lettuce, washed and torn into pieces (about 6 cups) ½ small red or sweet onion, very thinly sliced (about ½ cup) ¼ cup apple cider vinegar 2 tablespoons water 2 teaspoons sugar Freshly ground black pepper

especially with the freshest tender spring greens and a dab of pork (bacon) cured and stored for the winter. It’s similar to Red Cabbage Hot Slaw (page 239), another Kentucky favorite.

Cook the bacon in a large skillet until crisp. Mix the lettuce and red onion in a bowl. Remove the bacon from the skillet and pour the bacon grease into a small heatproof bowl. Put 2 tablespoons of bacon grease back into the skillet on medium-low heat. Stir in the vinegar, scraping the brown bits off the bottom of the skillet. Whisk in the water and sugar. While hot, pour over lettuce and onion. Sprinkle with freshly ground black pepper. Serve immediately.

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Bibb Lettuce The pride of a Kentucky garden is Bibb lettuce, a variety of butterhead lettuce developed by Frankfort horticulturist John B. Bibb. It’s also known as limestone lettuce, owing to the limestone in Kentucky soil. Bibb lettuce is delicate and sweet, and it grows in large, leafy clusters “like loose rose petals,” according to Elizabeth Ross in her book Kentucky Keepsakes. It is most famously used in wilted lettuce salads and is best paired with tender ingredients and a light dressing because its delicate leaves can easily become weighted down and overpowered. Bibb lettuce has a storied past with many Kentuckians, including the best male cook I know. Warren remembers Saturday morning trips to Southern States Supply in Lexington to buy fist-sized bundles of sprouted Bibb lettuce seeds. Upon returning home, he and his father planted the lettuce sprouts in their welltilled soil and anticipated the harvest. Due to its open nature, this variety of lettuce tends to collect dirt at the base of the leaves. To clean, twist off the stem and gently rinse the lettuce under cool running water, paying close attention to the ripples at the base of the leaves. Dry the lettuce in a salad spinner or dab with paper towels to remove excess water. The leaves store well in a gallon-size zip-top plastic bag lined with a paper towel.

Mixed Greens Salad with Sweet Garlic Dressing makes 6 servings

Every year the preschoolers at Villa Madonna Montessori in Villa Hills plant and nurture a small vegetable garden complete with lettuce, carrots, and radishes. These young children

1 clove garlic, crushed ¼ cup Kentucky honey ¼ cup apple cider vinegar 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 teaspoon dried basil or 1 tablespoon fresh ½ teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 6 ounces mixed salad greens (about 6 cups)

are serious about tending their garden, and they look forward to the appointed day when they pick the lettuce, make a homemade salad dressing, and eat the freshest salad they’ve ever had. My friend Gail Dwertman of Park Hills feels strongly about

Place the garlic, honey, vinegar, oil, basil, salt, and pepper in a blender container. Mix on high speed until the dressing is light in color and thickened. Place the salad greens in a bowl. Pour on half the dressing and toss to mix. Add more dressing if desired. Extra dressing can be stored, covered, in the refrigerator.

providing this growing and eating experience to the children. She is responsible for sharing this recipe and her school garden with my three children.

Honey Lemon Vinaigrette makes about ¾ cup

My family enjoys a robust buckwheat or locust honey. My brother-in-law Stewart keeps us supplied with Otter Valley Farms honey from Lawrenceburg, a lo-

4 tablespoons fresh lemon juice (about 2 lemons) 1 clove garlic, minced 2 tablespoons Dijon mustard 1 tablespoon Kentucky honey ¼ teaspoon salt ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper ½ cup olive oil

cal treasure. To read more about Kentucky honey, see page 203.

Whisk together the lemon juice, garlic, mustard, honey, salt, and pepper. Slowly whisk in the oil until thickened.

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Sunflower Herb Dressing makes about 1¾ cups

Sunflower seeds give this thick dressing a rich flavor and a creamy texture—a dairy-free way to flavor fresh greens. Chopped walnuts can be substituted for

¼ cup unsalted hulled sunflower seeds ¼ cup fresh lemon juice (about 2 lemons) ¼ cup honey 2 tablespoons olive oil ¼ cup chopped fresh chives, basil, or cilantro 1 clove garlic, pressed ½ teaspoon salt ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

the sunflower seeds.

In a blender or food processor with the metal blade, place the sunflower seeds, lemon juice, honey, oil, chives or other herb, and garlic. Process until creamy and thick. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Dressing Salad Greens with Oil and Vinegar To dress salad greens without preparing a vinaigrette or dressing, place the greens in a large ceramic or wooden bowl. Lightly sprinkle the leaves with the oil of your choice, such as olive, walnut, or grapeseed oil. Next, shake a good-quality white, red, or sherry wine vinegar over the salad greens. In general, the ratio should be about three parts oil to one part vinegar. Dust the salad with coarse or kosher salt and freshly cracked black pepper, and toss gently.

april  117

Warren’s Vinaigrette for Mixed Greens makes ¼ cup

Back in the day, rubbing a clove of garlic in a wooden salad bowl was considered an elegant way to infuse a fresh garlic flavor into the dressing. The best male cook I know uses this technique whenever he makes

1 clove garlic, peeled and cut in half 1½ teaspoons Dijon mustard ½ teaspoon anchovy paste 1 teaspoon red wine vinegar ¼ teaspoon herbes de Provence 1⁄8 teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 3 tablespoons olive oil

salad; then he throws the clove of garlic in too—a surprise for the person who finds it. The amount of salt needed is based on personal preference and depends on the saltiness of the anchovy paste.

Rub the salad bowl with the garlic, and then drop it into the bowl. In the salad bowl, whisk together the mustard, anchovy paste, red wine vinegar, herbs de Provence, salt, and pepper. Whisk in the olive oil to make a thick dressing.

Green Goddess Dressing makes about 1¼ cup

This herb-filled salad dressing has a bright flavor that appeals to most ranch-dressing fans. I like the name and the color, and the anchovy paste adds a unique salty flavor. This dressing was created in the 1920s at the Palace Hotel in San

1 cup mayonnaise ¼ cup low-fat buttermilk 1 clove garlic, minced ¼ cup chopped fresh parsley ¼ cup chopped fresh chives 1 tablespoon chopped fresh tarragon, optional 1 tablespoon red wine vinegar 1 tablespoon anchovy paste, optional Salt and pepper to taste

Francisco for the star of a play titled The Green Goddess. My most memorable Green Goddess Dressing graced a wedge of iceberg lettuce at

In a food processor with the metal blade, or in a blender, combine all the ingredients until smooth. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Pigall’s on Fourth Street in downtown Cincinnati. Use this dressing as a dip for Cornmeal-Crusted Fried Green Tomatoes (page 181).

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May When I went out under the trees last night, heard the chirping of the first crickets, the dreaming trill of frogs, just as the yellow moon rested on the far hills, there seemed such peace, serenity and comfort in the unfolding night, with its soft scented air.—harlan hubbard, payne hollow journal

A festive and fun time of year, May is like a breath of fresh air for Kentucky, and it’s one of the prettiest spring months. If Kentuckians had a favorite month, it just might be May. If Kentucky had a state holiday, it would be Kentucky Derby Day, the first Saturday in May. I didn’t grow up in Louisville, but as a Central Kentucky girl and the daughter of parents who loved Kentucky bourbon, Derby Day offered an occasion to have a party, put a dollar in the basket and draw horses’ names out of a hat, and drink mint juleps from sterling silver cups. In the garden, May is a time of transition. In my part of Kentucky (hardiness zone 6), the date of the last possible frost is around mid-May, so according to my grandfather, I can safely plant tender flowering annuals and my tomato, basil, pepper, bean, and squash plants without fear of damage from a nighttime frost soon after Mother’s Day. Tree fruits such as peaches and plums are not in abundance yet, but tender fruits and vegetables are harvested and grace our table—lettuce, rhubarb, asparagus, chard, and strawberries.

119

Good Morning Food The ultimate in convenience food, a hot breakfast casserole can be prepared the night before and baked in the morning or for brunch, making it ideal for holidays or when entertaining houseguests. It’s a carefree way to feed family and friends, plus it frees the cook to make the coffee, clean some strawberries, or pour the juice.

Kentucky Cornbread Strata makes 12 servings

Some old-style recipes call this dish Cheese Pudding, and an old Shaker recipe calls it Breakfast Soufflé. My recipe substitutes cornbread for traditional white bread. One recipe of

1 tablespoon butter 1 small red onion, finely chopped ½ recipe Herbed Pork Sausage Patties (page 281) or ½ pound bulk sausage 3 cups milk 6 large eggs 1 teaspoon dry mustard 8 cups cornbread cubes 8 ounces (2 cups) shredded sharp Cheddar

Buttermilk Cornbread (page 293) yields 8 cups of cornbread cubes; alternatively, use leftover cornbread or cornbread made from a mix. I use the mixture from Herbed Pork Sausage Patties (page 281), but sliced mushrooms can be substituted for the sausage, if desired. This dish can be refrigerated overnight and baked fresh in the morning.

Spray a 13×9×2-inch baking dish with nonstick cooking spray. In a large skillet, melt the butter over medium heat. Add the onion and cook for 5 minutes, until softened. Stir in the sausage and cook completely. Drain off any excess fat. Meanwhile, combine the milk, eggs, and dry mustard. Place half the cornbread cubes in the baking dish. Cover with the sausage mixture and 1 cup shredded cheese. Pour half the milk mixture over the top. Cover with the remaining bread cubes. Add the remaining milk mixture and the remaining cheese. Cover and refrigerate for 2 hours (or overnight).   When ready to bake, preheat the oven to 350°F. Bake for about 55 minutes, or until the eggs are set and the cornbread is golden brown around the edges and on top. Let stand 10 minutes before serving.

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Country Ham and Green Onion Breakfast Casserole makes about 12 servings

This recipe makes good use of after-holiday ham scraps.

12 slices sandwich bread 10 ounces (2½ cups) shredded mild Cheddar 8 ounces cooked country ham, chopped 4 green onions, thinly sliced 8 large eggs 2½ cups milk ¼ teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper Spray a 13×9×2-inch baking dish with nonstick cooking spray. Place 6 slices of bread in the dish. Top each slice with about ¼ cup cheese and a sprinkle of ham and green onion. Top with the remaining slices of bread and press the bread down lightly. Mix the eggs, milk, salt, and pepper. Pour evenly over the bread. Top with the remaining cheese. Cover and refrigerate for 2 hours (or overnight).   When ready to bake, preheat the oven to 350°F. Bake for about 55 minutes, or until the eggs are set in the middle and the edges are golden brown. Let stand 10 minutes before serving.

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A Pauper’s Grave I once read a story in the newspaper about a homeless gentleman who died under a bridge in Covington. He was buried in a pauper’s grave at Highland Cemetery in Fort Mitchell. There were no relatives or friends nearby as his particleboard casket was lowered into the ground. A cemetery representative and the funeral director were there, but no one else. I found this distressing. Didn’t anyone know him? And if they did know him, didn’t they care? I wonder about the people with whom he shared his meals. Did he ever share a table with family or friends and look into the eyes of people he loved over a hot meal or a bowl of soup? Felipe Fernandez-Armesto, in his “Meals Make Us Human” in the Guardian, said, “Mealtimes are our oldest rituals. The companionable effects of eating together make us human.” Don’t we all feel a little more human when we share a meal with our families and friends? We cook, sit, talk, and sometimes linger over dessert or a cup of coffee. Kids may swirl around as we talk, sometimes about our everyday lives and sometimes about more serious issues. We look around the table at others, sharing, nurturing, and building relationships. A story about a man who died alone and was buried with no farewell is heartbreaking. That story motivates me to make the kitchen table a place to forge positive relationships and a sense of belonging for those who dine there. My plea is for home cooks to take a stand. Take pride in cooking for and feeding your family and friends. Drudgery be gone. We’re building families and forging relationships, one meal at a time. With any luck, we’ll create a meaningful existence where no one dies alone.

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Bourbon The unique, genteel spirit native to Bourbon County has certainly helped put Kentucky on the liquor map, if not the culinary map. Central Kentucky’s limestone water, homegrown corn, and distilling methods borrowed from the Scotch-Irish immigrants have made Kentucky the most well-known bourbon-producing state in the nation. When used in cooking, bourbon enhances the sweetness of a dish and adds a nutty flavor to the food. For cooking, I use a name-brand, 80-proof Kentucky bourbon that’s good enough to drink, and I reserve the more upscale small-batch and single-barrel bourbons for cocktails. The individual nuances and characteristics of these more expensive bourbons would be lost in cooking. Use caution when adding bourbon to cooked dishes, particularly around an open flame. The bourbon can flare up, potentially causing a serious burn. Every September, Bardstown rolls out the barrel for the most well-known Bourbon Festival in the state. Since the mid-eighteenth century Bardstown has been home to bourbon distilleries, giving it the title “Bourbon Capital of the World.” This festival boasts everything from black-tie events to historic tours. The popular Kentucky Bourbon Trail winds its way through Central Kentucky, highlighting the state’s finest distilleries. The Kentucky Bourbon Trail website includes maps to the distilleries, history about bourbon making in Kentucky, and a list of bourbonrelated events such as cooking classes, bourbon tastings, and even a Bourbon academy.

Kentucky Derby For many Kentuckians, the first Saturday in May is almost as revered as the University of Kentucky’s first home football or basketball game. At least that’s the case in my family. Kentucky Derby Day is an excuse to have a party and drink mint juleps out of my mother’s sterling julep cups. In Louisville, the Derby has become a monthlong festival of events, with everything from parades to fireworks to celebrate the “greatest two minutes in sports.” And let’s be honest, who doesn’t well up at the call to the post for the singing of “My Old Kentucky Home”? Here’s a menu to celebrate Derby Day.

menu Bourbon Mint Slushies Burgoo Shaker Cornsticks (page 292) Steamed Asparagus with Toasted Sesame Mayonnaise Bluegrass Piettes or Bourbon Chocolate Walnut Pie

Bourbon Mint Slushies makes about 12 servings

My first taste of an herb garden was when my grandmother steeped fresh mint in her tea. This is my

6 cups water 3 family-size tea bags ½ cup sugar 2 ounces fresh mint One 12-ounce can frozen lemonade concentrate, thawed 2 cups Kentucky bourbon

not-too-sweet variation of a bourbon slushie, using her inspiration for the ever-popular mint, strong iced tea, lemonade, and bourbon.

In a saucepan, bring the water to a boil. Add the tea bags, sugar, and mint, and stir until the sugar is dissolved. Let steep for 15 minutes. Remove the tea bags and let the mint steep in the syrup until cool. Remove the mint. In a large freezer-safe container, mix the tea syrup, lemonade concentrate, and bourbon. Freeze for at least 24 hours. To serve, scrape a portion of the slushie into a julep cup or wine glass. Garnish with a sprig of fresh mint, and add a straw for sipping.

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Burgoo

can easily be made on the

1 pound bone-in beef chuck or short-rib 1 pound bone-in lamb sirloin roast or sirloin chops 3 to 3½ pounds chicken thighs or legs 1 tablespoon salt 12 cups water 1 large onion, chopped (about 2 cups) 6 cloves garlic, minced 2½ cups frozen mixed vegetables (one 12-ounce bag) 2½ cups frozen sliced okra (one 12-ounce bag) 3 cups cooked, or two 15-ounce cans, butter beans, drained 1½ cups diced fresh tomatoes or one 15-ounce can diced tomatoes

stovetop in an 8-quart

13

makes 1 gallon, about 12 servings

A close relative of Brunswick Stew, Burgoo was traditionally made with small, wild game such as squirrel or rabbit. This recipe adapted from B. Smith makes about 1 gallon, an amount that

Dutch oven or soup pot. There are two parts to the recipe: first, making the flavorful meat broth, and then cooking the meat and vegetables

⁄ cup Worcestershire sauce ¼ cup Kentucky sorghum or molasses ¼ cup ketchup 2 tablespoons apple cider vinegar ½ teaspoon ground cloves ¼ teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes ½ cup chopped fresh parsley, optional

together. Burgoo freezes well and tastes even better if it’s refrigerated a few days before serving. Lawrenceburg is home to the Anderson County Burgoo Festival, held every September.

Place the beef, lamb, and chicken in a large Dutch oven. Add the salt and water. Bring to a boil, skimming off any foam that rises to the surface. Reduce the heat, partially cover, and simmer until the beef and lamb are fork tender, about 1½ hours. Remove the beef, lamb, and chicken pieces to a plate and let cool. Strain and measure the broth; it should be about 6 cups. With a paper towel, wipe the inside edges of the Dutch oven to remove any residue clinging to the pot. Pour the broth back into the Dutch oven. Stir in the onion, garlic, mixed vegetables, okra, butter beans, tomatoes, Worcestershire sauce, sorghum or molasses, ketchup, vinegar, cloves, and red pepper flakes. Bring to a simmer and cook for about 1½ hours. Meanwhile, remove the chicken, beef, and lamb from the bones and cut into small pieces. Add the chopped meat to the vegetables and cook for about ½ hour to thicken the broth. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Stir in the parsley.

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Steamed Asparagus with Toasted Sesame Mayonnaise makes 6 servings

Sesame mayonnaise also makes a good dip for whole, cooked green beans. For more about asparagus and

1 pound asparagus, trimmed 1 cup mayonnaise Juice of ½ lemon 3 tablespoons dark sesame seed oil 2 tablespoons toasted sesame seeds ¼ teaspoon salt

the Mays Lick Asparagus Festival, see page 107.

Snap the tough ends off the asparagus. In a large skillet, bring 1 inch of water to a boil. Place the asparagus in the skillet, cover, and cook until the asparagus are bright green and tender but somewhat crisp—6 to 7 minutes for thick asparagus, 4 to 5 minutes for thin asparagus. Drain and immediately rinse with cold water until cool. In a small bowl, whisk the mayonnaise, lemon juice, sesame oil, sesame seeds, and salt together. Arrange the asparagus on a platter. Serve the mayonnaise on the side as a sauce for dipping. Or, if desired, thin the mayonnaise with some lemon juice and drizzle over the asparagus.

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Bluegrass Piettes makes about 30 piettes

In honor of my aunt Mary, I share her recipe for a miniature variation of Bourbon Chocolate Walnut Pie (page 128). My sister Kaye, who lives in Baltimore, swears by this finger dessert and always serves it when she hosts Derby parties for her Preakness-loving friends.

Cream Cheese Pastry (page 269) 2 tablespoons butter, melted and cooled ¼ cup granulated sugar 2 tablespoons light brown sugar 1 tablespoon unbleached all-purpose flour 1 large egg ¼ cup light corn syrup 2 tablespoons Kentucky bourbon 1⁄8 teaspoon salt ½ cup chopped pecans ½ cup semisweet mini chocolate “morsels” (mini chocolate chips) Preheat the oven to 375°F. Generously spray three 12-cup mini-muffin pans with nonstick cooking spray. Shape the Cream Cheese Pastry into 1-inch balls. I use a #100 scoop or a melon baller. Place the balls of dough in the cups of the muffin pans. Using your index finger or the blunt end of thick wooden spoon, make an indentation in each ball of dough, forming a small pastry shell. Press the dough up the sides of the muffin pan. For the filling, mix the butter and sugars until dissolved. Stir in the flour, egg, corn syrup, bourbon, salt, pecans, and chocolate chips. Using a teaspoon, fill each pastry shell half full. Do not overfill, or the filling will bubble out during baking. Bake for 25 minutes, or until the filling puffs up and the crust is golden brown. Cool slightly in the pan. Run a thin knife around the edges of the piettes to loosen, and then carefully remove them to a rack to cool completely.

may  127

Bourbon Chocolate Walnut Pie makes one 9-inch pie

The original Derby Pie® from Kern’s Bakery is a Kentucky original and has generated many clones. Walnuts are traditional, but pecans make a fine substitute. This is a modified ver-

All-Butter Pie Crust (page 90) 1 cup chopped walnuts ½ cup semisweet chocolate chips ¼ cup (½ stick) butter, melted and cooled 1 cup sugar 3 large eggs ¾ cup light corn syrup ¼ teaspoon salt 2 tablespoons Kentucky bourbon

sion of my grandmother’s recipe, and it’s even better with a dollop of Brown Sugar Bourbon Whipped Cream (page 69), Sour Cream Whipped Cream (page 242), or Homemade Vanilla Ice Cream (page 195) piled on top.

Preheat the oven to 375°F. Line a 9-inch pie dish with the pie crust. Spread the walnuts and chocolate chips in the bottom of pie shell. Stir together the melted butter and sugar until the sugar dissolves. Mix in the eggs, corn syrup, salt, and bourbon. Pour the filling evenly into the pie shell over the chips and nuts. Bake for 55 to 60 minutes, until the filling is set and the crust edges are golden brown.

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Spring Lunch Menus Spring sets the ideal backdrop for a small luncheon or tea party. We don’t do this much anymore, but it’s a lovely idea. Invite neighbors, teachers from the kids’ school, bridesmaids from a wedding party, or high school buddies. Keep it small (six to eight people) so everyone can sit together at one table. Keep it simple—three courses of food, prepared ahead—to allow time to visit with the guests. For a beverage, serve a pretty pink rosé wine, Sweet Iced Tea (page 185), Fresh Herbed Lemonade (page 184), or Kentucky Wine Cooler Slush (page 210). For Kentucky tea, look to Elmwood Inn Fine Teas. Its Shaker Village Blend, Joseph Beth Booksellers Blend, and Kentucky Blend are like drinking a cup of serenity. Or visit MonTea tea shop, Lexington’s only shop dedicated to tea. Here are three simple menus—one featuring fish, one lamb, and one pasta.

menu Estill County Shiitake Soup Smoked Trout and Watercress Niçoise Salad Linen-Napkin Dinner Rolls (page 111) Sour Cream Lemon Loaf Cake

Estill County Shiitake Soup makes 8 servings

This simple broth-based mushroom soup is adapted from the Pride of Kentucky cookbook. If shiitake mushrooms are not

8 ounces shiitake mushroom caps, sliced (about 1½ cups) 1 large carrot, peeled and thinly sliced 8 cups reduced-sodium chicken or vegetable broth 6 ounces snow peas, trimmed and slivered (about 2 cups) ¼ cup sliced green onions 1⁄8 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes

available, substitute thinly sliced button or cremini mushrooms.

In a saucepan, combine the mushrooms, carrots, and broth. Bring to a simmer and cook for 10 minutes, until the carrots are tender. Just before serving, stir in the snow peas, green onions, and red pepper flakes. Cook for 2 minutes. Serve hot.

may  129

Smoked Trout and Watercress Niçoise Salad makes 4 entrée salads

For this salad, I prefer to use a Kentucky smoked trout from Shuckman’s Fish Company. If smoked trout isn’t available, substitute hot-smoked salmon. Watercress, either a wild variety harvested near

4 ounces mixed salad greens (about 4 cups) 4 ounces watercress or baby arugula (about 4 cups) 8 ounces smoked Kentucky rainbow trout 8 ounces tiny red potatoes, boiled and sliced 8 ounces fresh green beans, snipped and precooked (see page 207) 1 pint grape or cherry tomatoes, halved ½ cup kalamata olives, halved ¼ cup capers Sweet Garlic Dressing (page 116)

a running spring or a cultivated variety such as Upland cress, is a sure sign of warm spring days. This salad can also be served with Linen-Napkin Dinner

Divide the salad greens and watercress among 4 dinner plates. Place 2 ounces smoked trout on each plate. On the side, arrange the potatoes, green beans, tomatoes, olives, and capers. Drizzle with dressing and serve more on the side.

Rolls (page 111) or WholeEgg Spoonbread (page 135).

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Sour Cream Lemon Loaf Cake makes 1 loaf

Inspired by a recipe in Barefoot Contessa Parties, this refreshing lemon loaf cake is simple to mix by hand because it uses oil instead of butter. If desired, serve it with sliced fresh strawberries or

cake 1½ cups unbleached all-purpose flour 2 teaspoons baking powder ½ teaspoon salt 3 large eggs 1 cup granulated sugar 1 cup sour cream or plain yogurt ½ cup canola oil 1 teaspoon lemon or pure vanilla extract Zest from 2 lemons

peaches and Sour Cream Whipped Cream (page 242)

glaze

or a scoop of Homemade

1 cup powdered sugar 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

Vanilla Ice Cream (page 195).

Preheat the oven to 350­°F. Spray an 8×4-inch loaf pan with nonstick cooking spray. In a bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, and salt. In another bowl, whisk together the eggs, granulated sugar, sour cream, oil, extract, and lemon zest. Using a silicone spatula, fold the flour mixture into the sour cream mixture. Pour the batter into the prepared pan. Bake for 50 to 55 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean. Allow the cake to cool in the pan for 10 minutes. Run a thin knife around the edge of the loaf to loosen, place a plate or cooling rack on top of the pan, and flip the cake over onto the plate or rack. Allow to cool completely before applying the glaze. For the glaze, mix the powdered sugar and lemon juice together until smooth. Pour the glaze over the top of the cake, allowing it to run down the sides in large drips.

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menu Bibb Lettuce with Fresh Chive Vinaigrette Herb-Crusted Lamb Chops Roasted Potatoes with Garlic and Parsley Whole-Egg Spoonbread Fresh Strawberries with Vanilla Bourbon Zabaglione

Bibb Lettuce with Fresh Chive Vinaigrette

each other. Since I grow

2 heads Bibb lettuce, cleaned Juice of 1 lemon (about 2 tablespoons) 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard Pinch sugar ¼ cup snipped chives

chives right outside my

13

makes about 4 servings

In this dressing, the lemon and chives complement

back door, I cut them with

⁄ cup olive oil Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

a pair of kitchen shears. Unlike a knife, the scissors don’t smash the hollow chives, resulting in a tidy crosswise cut instead.

Gently tear the lettuce into bite-sized pieces and place in a large salad bowl. Whisk the lemon juice, mustard, and sugar together in a bowl. Add the chives and slowly whisk in the oil. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Toss the lettuce with half the dressing just before serving. Serve the extra dressing on the side.

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Herb-Crusted Lamb Chops makes 6 servings

To keep the meat delicate and tender, the lamb chops are rubbed with a garlicstudded mustard paste and then grilled to perfection.

6 lamb loin chops, cut 1½ inches thick ¼ cup Dijon mustard 4 cloves garlic, minced 2 tablespoons olive oil 2 tablespoons fresh thyme or 2 teaspoons dried 1 tablespoon fresh rosemary or 1 teaspoon dried ½ teaspoon kosher salt ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper Place the lamb chops on a rimmed baking sheet. In a small bowl, mix the mustard, garlic, oil, thyme, rosemary, salt, and pepper. Spread the mixture on both sides of the lamb chops and refrigerate for at least 2 hours. Preheat the grill to medium high. Grill the lamb chops for 5 minutes on each side, or until the desired degree of doneness is reached. Let rest 10 minutes before serving.

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Roasted Potatoes with Garlic and Parsley makes 6 servings

1½ pounds yellow- or red-skinned potatoes, scrubbed and cut into 1-inch chunks 4 tablespoons olive oil, divided ½ teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 2 cloves garlic, chopped 2 green onions, white and green parts sliced 1 teaspoon Spicy Seasoning Mix (page 93) ½ cup minced fresh parsley Preheat the oven to 425°F. In a bowl, toss the potato chunks with 2 tablespoons olive oil, salt, and pepper. Spread on a rimmed baking sheet. Bake for 30 minutes, until golden brown.   Meanwhile, in a small skillet, heat the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil over low heat. Stir in the garlic and green onion and cook about 3 minutes, until soft and fragrant; do not allow it to brown. Stir in the Spicy Seasoning Mix and parsley. After the potatoes have finished baking, place them on a large platter or in a shallow serving bowl. Drizzle with the parsley mixture. Toss to coat and serve warm.

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Whole-Egg Spoonbread makes about 6 servings

Spoonbread is a Kentucky tradition, a more genteel version of its rustic sister cornbread. This soft, eggy

2¾ cups milk 1 cup cornmeal 3 tablespoons butter ½ teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon baking powder 3 large eggs

dish is like a cornmeal pudding and is spooned onto the plate to serve. To streamline the recipe, I use whole eggs instead of separated yolks and whites. A little lightness might be lost, but my goal is to inspire no-fuss cooks to give spoonbread a try. Every September, Berea hosts a Spoonbread Festival.

Preheat the oven to 325°F. Generously butter or spray with nonstick cooking spray a 1½-quart baking dish. In a saucepan, heat the milk until hot and steamy. Slowly whisk in the cornmeal and cook while whisking for about 10 minutes, until thick. Stir in the butter, salt, and baking powder. In a bowl, beat the eggs until well blended. Temper the eggs by slowly adding some of the hot cornmeal mixture to the eggs while whisking them constantly. Mix the tempered eggs back into the cornmeal mixture. Pour into the prepared pan. Bake for 1 hour 15 minutes, until puffed and golden brown. Serve immediately.

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Fresh Strawberries with Vanilla Bourbon Zabaglione makes 6 servings

5 egg yolks

⁄ cup sugar 3 tablespoons Kentucky bourbon 1 tablespoon pure vanilla extract 1 cup heavy or whipping cream 4 cups fresh strawberries, hulled and quartered

13

Zabaglione is a light, eggy Italian dessert traditionally served warm over sliced fresh fruit or berries. Marsala wine is classic, but for a Kentucky twist, I substitute Kentucky bourbon and pure vanilla extract and fold in a bit of fresh whipped cream. Zabaglione can be made ahead and refrigerated overnight. If you’re buying supermarket strawberries, read about the Organic Dirty Dozen on page 10. Refrigerate the leftover egg whites in an airtight container for up to 2 days. Use them in an omelet or scramble with fresh herbs and a sprinkle of Parmesan.

In a saucepan, bring 2 inches of water to a boil, then reduce the heat to a simmer. Meanwhile, in a glass or stainless-steel bowl slightly larger than the saucepan, beat the egg yolks and sugar about 3 minutes, until pale yellow. Whisk in the bourbon and vanilla. Set the bowl on the saucepan so it sits over, but not in, the simmering water. With an electric mixer, beat the egg mixture constantly for about 10 to 12 minutes, until the volume of the eggs triples and it becomes very light in color. First the eggs will turn frothy; then as they heat and cook, they will stiffen. Remove from the heat and let cool to room temperature. In a chilled bowl, beat the heavy cream until stiff. Fold in the cooled egg custard until well blended. To serve, put a dollop of zabaglione in a pretty serving dish or glass, such as a wine or martini glass. Add fresh strawberries. Finish with another spoonful of zabaglione and a fresh sprig of mint, thyme, or lemon balm.

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menu Spring Radish Salad Arugula Pesto over Angel-Hair Pasta Rhubarb Crisp with Granola Topping

Spring Radish Salad makes 8 servings

This is a refreshing, somewhat spicy salad filled with springtime vegetables and fresh herbs.

¼ cup red wine vinegar ½ cup olive oil 1 tablespoon Kentucky honey ½ teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 2 bunches radishes, grated 2 carrots, peeled and grated ½ cup snipped chives 1 bunch parsley, minced In a bowl, mix the vinegar, oil, honey, salt, and pepper. Stir in the radishes, carrots, chives, and parsley. Season with salt and pepper.

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Arugula Pesto over Angel-Hair Pasta makes about 8 servings

Ground to a paste and seasoned with the ever-popular walnut and a small amount of garlic, arugula provides the bright green color and peppery bite of basil, without the licorice overtones.

½ cup grated Parmesan, plus more for garnish ½ cup walnuts, toasted 1 clove garlic, crushed ½ teaspoon salt ½ cup olive oil 1 tablespoon dark sesame seed oil 3 cups packed arugula 1 pound cooked angel-hair pasta Fresh lemon wedges

Served over hot pasta, this pesto makes a filling side dish. It’s a wonderful fresh pesto that can be made before fresh basil is ready to harvest.

Place the Parmesan, walnuts, garlic, salt, olive oil, and sesame seed oil in a food processor with the metal blade. Process for about 30 seconds, or until the mixture is finely ground. Scrape down the sides of the bowl and add the arugula. Process again until the arugula is incorporated. Serve over hot pasta with a squeeze of fresh lemon juice and more grated Parmesan, if desired.

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Rhubarb Crisp with Granola Topping makes one 9-inch crisp

Fresh rhubarb is available only in the spring. It is unusually tart and needs to be sweetened. I love a crunchy

rhubarb filling 8 stalks (about 1½ pounds) rhubarb, cut into ½-inch pieces (about 6 cups) Zest and juice from 1 lemon ½ cup sugar 2 tablespoons cornstarch

granola-type topping sweetened with maple syrup for

granola topping

a homey, natural appeal.

1½ cups old-fashioned oats ½ cup chopped pecans, walnuts, or almonds, or a combination ¼ cup pure maple syrup ½ teaspoon cinnamon

Don’t eat the rhubarb leaves—they’re toxic. Serve this dish with Sour Cream Whipped Cream (page 242) or Homemade Vanilla Ice Cream (page 195).

Preheat the oven to 375°F. Spray a 9-inch baking dish with nonstick cooking spray. In a bowl, mix together the rhubarb, lemon zest and juice, sugar, and cornstarch. Place in the prepared baking dish. For the topping, mix the oats, nuts, maple syrup, and cinnamon. Sprinkle over the rhubarb filling. Bake for 35 to 40 minutes, or until the rhubarb is tender and the juices are bubbly. Best served warm.

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Culinary Herbs My eyes were opened to the power of fresh herbs during my culinary training at Sullivan University in Louisville. It’s hard to forget the day our chef instructor sent us out to the herb garden to pick fresh thyme for a dish we were going to prepare. Learning not only to identify but also to grow and cook with herbs has been worth the price I paid for my education. Within a few days of my first fresh herb lesson, I was shopping for fresh herbs to plant in my Northern Kentucky garden. During my year at Sullivan I stayed with my sister Mary and her husband Bob for a few nights each week, and I placed my herb purchases on their front porch to get adequate sunlight until my drive back home. That evening, Bob and I sat on the porch and sniffed our way through a mix of rosemary, oregano, tarragon, parsley, chives, basil, thyme, and sage. The aromas burst forth from the leaves as we rubbed them, releasing their essential oils. We both almost had to call in sick the next day due to our near-allergic reactions to the herb-smelling session. Fresh herbs grow in Kentucky nearly year-round—beginning in March, when chives shoot up from the ground, and continuing into November, when sage and rosemary still thrive in the cool air. Kentucky lies in zones 6 and 7 on the Hardiness Zone Map. This temperate climate allows the growing and harvesting of many varieties of herbs. Herbs are relatively easy to grow and don’t even require a garden—they can be grown in patio containers, window boxes, or pots on a windowsill. And high-quality dried herbs can be used in cooking when fresh herbs are not in season. Dried and fresh herbs are sometimes interchangeable in recipes: use three to five times more fresh herbs than dried, depending on the strength of the herb. Most culinary herbs are perennial, which means that they return to the garden every year. Examples are thyme, chives, tarragon, lavender, oregano, rosemary, and sage. Some herbs, such as basil and dill, are annual and enjoy only one growing season. Parsley and cilantro may return for a second growing season if the weather conditions are favorable. Every year in May the Kentucky Herb Association sponsors its Herb Festival, featuring lectures scheduled throughout the day and vendors selling herbal crafts, products, foods, and plants. An herbal luncheon is available by reservation, as well as a forum of Kentucky authors to sign their books. Reminiscent Nursery in Burlington is a lovely spot to shop for unique herb plants to start your own culinary herb garden. For Kentucky-grown lavender, a trip to Lavender Hills of Kentucky in Bracken County makes for a rewarding Sunday afternoon drive.

Early-Season Grilling One of the best events of springtime is the day we open our outdoor dining room— the patio. We remove the drop cloths from the furniture, reassemble the fountain, and put up the umbrella. It’s not a fancy outdoor kitchen or a covered three-season room, but it is one of my favorite places. Containers filled with annuals and the nearby butterfly bush, black-eyed susans, hostas, and ornamental grasses make it a cozy outdoor place to eat. I look forward to the first time we grill, too, but we don’t necessarily have to grill to eat outdoors. There’s nothing like a plate of pancakes and a cup of coffee on the patio on a warm spring morning. And if the weather isn’t cooperative, we even grill outside but eat indoors.

Safely Cooking Ground Meats Unlike whole cuts of meat, such as steaks or chops, ground meat has an increased risk of bacterial contamination. This explains the concern about fully cooking ground meat. To dispel my fear about tainted meat, I can either grind my own meat or purchase it from reputable local markets or farmers who grind their own beef, poultry, or lamb in small batches. The length of time it takes to fully cook a ground meat patty varies, depending on its size and thickness and the temperature of the grill. The safest way to judge the doneness of a ground meat patty is to insert a meat thermometer into the thickest part of the burger. Ground beef is fully cooked at 155°F, and ground poultry is fully cooked at 165°F. To grill a burger, preheat the grill to medium. Use smoke chips, if desired, over a charcoal fire to add smoky flavor to the meat. My brother-in-law Mike likes to use apple wood chips, and Warren uses hickory. Place the burgers on the grill and watch them carefully. Sometime the juice and fat dripping from the burger causes a flareup, burning the outside before the inside is anywhere near done. Keep the fire low, and cook the burger slowly. Avoid pressing down on the patty during cooking.

Beef Burger Primer Ground beef comes in a variety of forms—ground beef or “hamburger,” ground chuck, ground round, and ground sirloin—and they contain varying amounts of fat. Ground chuck contains about 20 percent fat and makes juicy burgers. Ground sirloin is the leanest and makes drier hamburgers. Ground beef or hamburger has the highest fat content and releases more grease when cooked than the other types, meaning that the patties will shrink more. Experiment with other ground meats such as buffalo (or bison), lamb, chicken, or turkey for varied flavors and textures. For Kentucky beef, see page 8. For a hearty beef burger, I usually choose high-quality ground chuck or ground round. Personal preference dictates the weight and thickness of the patty. Shape the patties about ½ inch larger than the bun and thinner than the desired thickness of the cooked burger because ground beef patties shrink and plump as they cook. For best results, season the meat before shaping the patties. Fresh ground meat patties need little more than a sprinkle of salt and freshly ground black pepper. However, ground beef is a wonderful carrier for flavor enhancers such as garlic, hot pepper sauce, cheese, and herbs. Use a light touch when shaping the meat, trying not to compact it too much.

Bluegrass Cheese Burgers makes 4 burgers

1½ pounds ground chuck or ground round ⁄ cup grated sharp Cheddar or Swiss or crumbled Blue cheese 3 cloves garlic, minced 1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce ½ teaspoon salt 1⁄8 teaspoon cayenne pepper 23

Growing up in a large family, beef meals rarely meant New York strip steak or petit filets. When beef was served at our table, it was ground and then grilled or fried and served on a toasted, buttered bun. Our hamburger meals were one of my favorites, and I can still hear Dad say, “There’s not a meal I like better than a hamburger and

Preheat a charcoal or gas grill to medium high. In a bowl, combine all the ingredients. Shape into 4 patties and grill until cooked through, turning once halfway through cooking.

a bowl of homemade vegetable soup.” This recipe is adapted from a James Beard recipe that mixes the cheese and seasonings with the ground beef, eliminating the need for cheese on top of the burger. For Kentucky cheese producers, see page 342.

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Grilling Fish For grilling, choose a piece of fresh fish about 1 to 1½ inches thick. Whether using charcoal or gas heat, the fire should be medium high to high, and the grill preheated. To prevent sticking, use a hot, well-oiled grill. To oil the grill grate, soak the edge of a dish cloth or a small towel in vegetable oil. Pinch the oiled towel with a set of tongs and rub the grill grates, applying the oil evenly across the grill. To cook the fish, put its more attractive side, also called the “presentation side,” down on the grill. An audible sizzle indicates the grill is hot enough. Once the fish is on the grill, leave it alone. Resist the temptation to poke, turn, or prod the fish while it’s cooking (close the top of the grill if this reduces the temptation, but most fish cooks adequately with the lid open). Let it cook on the first side for at least half the cooking time, then turn the fish and finish cooking. In general, most boneless fish fillets cook in about 10 minutes per 1 inch of thickness.

Kentucky Honey–Lime Grilled Salmon makes 4 servings

Buy the freshest salmon possible because with fish, you get what you pay for.

2 minced green onions ¼ cup Kentucky honey Juice of 2 limes 2 cloves garlic, minced 2 tablespoons reduced-sodium soy sauce or tamari ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper Four 6-ounce salmon fillets In a bowl, combine the green onions, honey, lime juice, garlic, soy sauce, and pepper. Place the fish in a shallow glass baking dish. Pour the marinade over the fish fillets. Refrigerate for at least 1 hour. Preheat the grill to medium high. Grill over medium-high heat, allowing 10 minutes per inch of thickness, or until the fish starts to flake and appears opaque, not translucent.

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How to Butterfly and Split a Whole Chicken It’s not uncommon to find a whole chicken in my refrigerator or freezer, ready to use for an impromptu meal, a pot of soup, or a batch of chicken salad. When I need to cook a whole chicken and I’m pressed for time, I butterfly the bird before I roast it. This allows it to lie flat in a baking dish, and it roasts (or grills) in about half the time. To butterfly a whole chicken, first remove the giblets and neck from the cavity. Place the chicken on a cutting board with the breast side down. Using a sharp pair of kitchen shears, cut up along both sides of the backbone. Remove and discard the backbone (or store it in a zip-top bag in the freezer to make chicken broth). With the palm of the hand, firmly press the chicken down to flatten it. Sometimes I also split a chicken in half for grilling. This makes it easier to turn and handle, since it’s in two pieces. To split a whole chicken, follow the directions above for butterflying. Then, after removing the backbone, turn the chicken over on the cutting board. Using the shears, cut the chicken in half directly through the middle of the breastbone. The breastbone is relatively soft, so it is generally easy to cut.

Split Grilled Chicken makes 4 servings

For sticky barbecued chicken, use a pastry or barbecue brush to swipe Warren’s

One 3- to 4-pound whole fryer, split 1 fresh lemon, cut in half 1 tablespoon fresh thyme or tarragon or 1 teaspoon dried 1½ teaspoons kosher salt ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Henry Bain–Style Barbecue Sauce or Brown Sugar Bourbon Barbecue Sauce (page 178) on the chicken during the last half hour of grilling.

Prepare a hot indirect fire with charcoal, or preheat a gas grill to medium high, leaving one side of the heat off to create indirect heat. Place the chicken halves in a large baking dish or on a rimmed baking sheet. Squeeze the lemon juice over the chicken and sprinkle with thyme, salt, and pepper. Place the chicken, skin-side down, over the indirect heat. Close the grill lid and cook for 15 minutes. Rotate the chicken, but don’t turn it over yet. Close the lid and cook for 15 more minutes. Turn the chicken halves over to the other side and close the grill lid. Cook for 15 minutes. Rotate and cook another 15 minutes, or until the chicken measures 160°F with the thermometer in the thickest part of the thigh. Remove the chicken to a platter, cover with foil, and let rest for 10 minutes before serving.

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June Last night at bedtime the sky was clear, a young moon over the western hills. I watched the fireflies as I looked down into the bottom land, like a basin in its wall of dark trees, all filled with the flashing, moving light. Nowhere, I believe, are there so many, so brilliant.—harlan hubbard, payne hollow journal

In June, Kentucky is a kaleidoscope of color. It is the crossroads of spring and summer, a turning point for seasonally available produce. Flowers are in full bloom, lending grace and charm to the month that ushers in summer. Daylilies, peonies, and hydrangeas bow their heads to the summer sun. When the cottonwood trees open their pods and release their downy white seeds into the air, I know the change in season is upon us. As the harvest begins in earnest, the beauty of summertime food appears in the kitchen. The precise date of the switch depends on the weather, but whenever it occurs, it is gradual yet dramatic. Out with asparagus and strawberries, and in with squash, peaches, and tomatoes. Out with rhubarb, peas, and wild mushrooms, and in with blueberries, corn, and basil. The longest day of the year—the summer solstice—falls on or about June 21. On outings or during baseball games, we sweat and feel the oncoming haze of the day. We swat at mosquitoes in the yard. If the weather cooperates, the patio becomes an outdoor dining room, a place to eat a late-night meal under the stars. Fireflies glow on and off under the trees and bushes near the darkened ground. Picnics and Father’s Day set the agenda for June. Earlymorning visits to the farmers’ market, a day at the pool, or a cold, refreshing drink on the patio with friends begin the celebrations of summertime.

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Good Morning Food With a loaf of bread and some milk on hand, French toast is only a few beats of an egg away. Served hot off the griddle, this dunked-bread creation pleases both young and old. We gild the lily and sprinkle “plain” French toast with powdered sugar, making it taste like a funnel cake without the deep frying, thank goodness. Whole milk is the best choice for a nice balance of richness and consistency—creamy enough, but not so thick that it won’t soak into the bread. Because we drink low-fat milk at our house, I often mix milk with the half-and-half I use in my morning coffee. And one more thing: a dense bread makes the best French toast.

Baked Stuffed French Toast with Blackberry Jam makes 12 servings

This dish can be prepared the night before and baked in the morning. Herbed Pork Sausage Patties (page 281) and Pork Sausage Goetta

12 slices firm white sandwich bread 6 ounces soft Neufchâtel or cream cheese ½ cup seedless blackberry or raspberry jam 4 large eggs 1 cup milk ½ cup half-and-half 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

(page 279) are both tasty side dishes.

Spray a 13×9×2-inch pan with nonstick cooking spray. Spread 6 slices of bread with cream cheese and put them in the pan, cream cheese side up. Spread the remaining bread with jam and lay the slices on top of the others, jam side up. Mix the eggs, milk, half-and-half, and vanilla. Pour the mixture over the bread and refrigerate for at least 1 hour or overnight. Preheat the oven to 350°­F. Bake for about 40 to 45 minutes, or until the eggs are set.

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Banana Bourbon Walnut French Toast makes 6 servings

Sunday tradition dictates a hot breakfast or brunch, complete with pancakes, French toast, or some other variety of hot bread that can be covered with warm maple syrup. This recipe

french toast 3 large eggs ½ cup half-and-half ½ cup milk 2 tablespoons Kentucky bourbon 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract 1 tablespoon brown sugar 2 tablespoons butter 1 pound dense bread, sliced into 1-inch slices

uses one of the most popular fruits (next to apples)

banana topping

available in our supermar-

4 ripe bananas 1 tablespoon butter 2 tablespoons brown sugar 2 tablespoons Kentucky bourbon 2 tablespoons chopped walnuts

kets that is not native to Kentucky but is quite prevalent in Kentucky cuisine.

In a bowl, mix together the eggs, half-and-half, milk, bourbon, vanilla, and brown sugar. In a large skillet or griddle, melt 1 tablespoon butter. One slice at a time, soak the bread in the egg mixture, let the excess drip off, and place the bread in the skillet or griddle. Cook on both sides until golden brown. Add more butter as needed to keep the toast from sticking and to create a crispy edge. Serve immediately, topped with the bananas, or keep warm in a 200°F oven until ready to serve. To make the banana topping, peel the bananas, cut them in half, then slice lengthwise. Melt the butter in another skillet until bubbly. Mix in the sugar and stir until it dissolves. Add the bananas and cook gently to warm and brown them. Turn off the heat and add the bourbon and walnuts. Stir to mix. Serve the bananas over the French toast.

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Homemade Strawberry Freezer Jam makes four 8-ounce jars

Take advantage of Kentucky strawberries and preserve them. The trick to mak-

1 quart (4 cups) strawberries, hulled and cut into quarters 2 cups sugar 2 Granny Smith apples, cored, peeled, and grated with a box grater

ing jam is getting the fruit to “jam,” or hold together, which is accomplished with pectin. Some fruits have a naturally high pectin content; for those that don’t,

In a large saucepan, bring the strawberries and sugar to a boil. Add the apples and let boil gently for 45 to 50 minutes, or until the temperature is 220°F. With a spoon, remove any foam that rises to the surface. Spoon into freezer-safe containers and let cool. Cover and freeze.

powdered pectin can be added. Strawberries are iffy on pectin content, so I use a trick from the Joy of Cooking and add a few green apples to the berries. To create a jam with a deeper red color, substitute 1 cup of blueberries for 1 cup of strawberries.

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Take Me to a Potluck A potluck meal is one of life’s little pleasures, for it reveals what folks are eating and cooking. I remember one particular potluck I attended with my mother. Mom is a member of the Bluegrass Dulcimer Club, and on this particular Saturday afternoon, their picnic agenda featured a double bonus—a dulcimer jam session and a potluck meal. Baby blue skies and crisp, dry air created a picture-perfect day. We set out for our destination with a carload of food, drink, and instruments. The park where the group gathered can only be described as charming, complete with an 1800s log cabin and a large amphitheater constructed of stone blocks and cedar timbers. Soon after our arrival, Mom and her dulcimer buddies circled their chairs under the tall oak trees. Within minutes, they were strumming and picking catchy tunes such as “Whiskey for Breakfast” and “Mississippi Sawyer,” along with old-time favorites “Farther Along” and “I’ll Fly Away.” The music gave us reason to sing along, tap our feet, and lose our thoughts in the soothing balm of the dulcimers. This musical day set up the ideal backdrop for sharing a meal. We spread a plaid tablecloth and arranged the food on a long picnic table. Sweat bees buzzed around the soda cans, and a soft-spoken woman blessed the food. A wide assortment graced the table: cheesy potato casserole with cornflake topping, fried chicken wings and strips, slivered radishes with sour cream and dill, zucchini lasagna, bowtie pasta salad, fresh watermelon and cantaloupe balls, chocolate Bundt cake, and yellow and pink frosted sugar cookies. Conversation about the weather, and the music, could be heard above the chatter of the surrounding park and picnic areas. Nourished and refreshed, the musicians moved their chairs, music stands, and instruments to the adjacent amphitheater. Once settled, they began to play more melodies, interspersed with stories and jokes. From my chair on the periphery, I found myself lost in the music once again. No doubt the divine reached down into the park that Saturday afternoon. As we sat among the tall shade trees, we were fed in body and in spirit. Potluck meals are like that— everyone brings a little and receives much more. Life is like that too. On this day, hearts were touched and memories were made—all because of dulcimer music and a potluck meal.

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Kentucky Artisan Cheese Kentucky has recently experienced a growth in artisan food producers, especially those who make cheese. For instance, Kenny’s Farmhouse Cheese is made in Barren County, using milk from Kenny’s dairy cows. Inspired after a trip to Europe, Kenny decided to start making cheese as a value-added product for his dairy farm. Kenny’s Farmhouse Cheese has blossomed into a fine manufacturer of Cheddar, Colby, Monterey Jack, Asiago, Swiss, Havarti, and Blue cheese. The monks of Gethsemani began making and selling handmade cheese in the 1940s, using milk from their own herd of Holsteins. Gethsemani has been a hardworking community of monks since 1848, when forty-four Trappist monks from the Abbey of Melleray in western France settled in the hills of Central Kentucky. At first they supported themselves by farming, but now their income depends on the sale of Kentucky fruitcake, cheese, and bourbon fudge. They also produce a semisoft cheese in the tradition of their Trappist brothers at the Abbey of Port du Salut in France. Another Kentucky cheese producer, Sapori d’ Italia (Taste of Italy) was founded in 2007. Master cheese maker Giovanni Capezzuto from Napoli, Italy, has become the largest producer of artisan goat cheese in Kentucky. All the cheese is made with goat’s milk from Kentucky farms.

Portable Foods: Party-Worthy Dips, Salads, and Side Dishes Summer unofficially starts on Memorial Day, when wreaths are laid on the graves of veterans and flags are flown in their honor. There’s a good chance that before the official first day of summer in June, the weather will cooperate for a potluck picnic, pool party, or patio cocktail party. These occasions call for food that is portable, traditional, and easy to eat. Traditional Kentucky appetizers, salads, and side dishes are generally my choice.

portable recipes In addition to those presented here, the following recipes from other chapters fit the bill: Nina’s Potato Salad (page 182) Dried Cherry and Pecan Chicken Salad (page 220) Cheese Dip with Chutney, Bacon, and Green Onions (page 52) White Cheddar Pimiento Cheese Sandwiches (page 102) Cream Cheese Olive Nut Spread (page 221) Muffulettas (page 101) Oven-Fried Boneless Chicken Thighs (page 82) One-Pan Pecan Brownies (page 94) Everything Cookies (page 104) Broccoli, Apple, Raisin Salad (page 275) Sunflower Slaw (page 180) Sweet Bourbon Baked Beans (page 183) Watermelon Cucumber Salad (page 207) Fresh Blackberry Sheet Cake (page 189) Bluegrass Piettes (page 127) Bourbon Mint Slushies (page 124)

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Spicy Garlic Beer Cheese makes about 3 cups

A cousin of the filling for White Cheddar Pimiento Cheese Sandwiches (page 102), this spicy spread (inspired by my friend Rhonda Greely’s recipe) is arguably Kentucky’s favorite way to serve cheese. Made famous by Joe Allman for

One 14-ounce tub sharp Cheddar spread, such as Merkts Wisconsin, at room temperature 8 ounces (2 cups) shredded sharp Cheddar, at room temperature 4 ounces Neufchâtel or cream cheese, softened 2 cloves garlic, minced 1 tablespoon hot red pepper sauce 3 dashes Worcestershire sauce ¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper ½ cup flat beer

his cousin’s restaurant, John Allman’s, on the Kentucky River, it can be served with crisp celery, radishes, pretzels rods, or Northern Kentucky–style with thick chunks of “everything” bagels. Be sure to allow the beer to flatten so the bubbles won’t interfere with the smoothness of the cheese. To read about how to flatten beer, see page 52. Plan to

With an electric mixer, beat the Cheddar spread, shredded Cheddar, and cream cheese until well blended. Add the garlic, hot red pepper sauce, Worcestershire sauce, and cayenne pepper, and beat until smooth. Scrape down the sides of the bowl. With the mixer running, add the beer in a slow, steady stream, mixing slowly until creamy and well blended. Scrape into a storage container and refrigerate to harden the cheese and allow the flavors to bloom.

visit Winchester in June during the annual Beer Cheese Festival.

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Kentucky Dill Dip makes about 2 cups

This simple dip highlights the abundance of fresh dill weed in Kentucky gardens. My aunt Eileen serves this dip with Bugles, but cucumber slices, broccoli florets, or

1 cup sour cream 1 cup mayonnaise 2 tablespoons minced onion or dried onion flakes 2 tablespoons chopped fresh dill weed or 2 teaspoons dried 2 small cloves garlic, pressed, or ¼ teaspoon garlic powder ½ teaspoon salt

crisp celery stand in well.

In a bowl, mix all the ingredients together. Cover and refrigerate at least 2 hours before serving if using dried onion flakes.

Bowtie Pasta with Spinach and Almonds makes 12 servings

Strikingly colorful and full of fresh, simple flavors, this pasta salad is a potluck superstar.

1 pound uncooked bowtie pasta 1 pint grape or small cherry tomatoes, halved 2 tablespoons olive oil ½ teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 4 cups fresh baby spinach ½ cup slivered almonds, toasted ½ cup chopped fresh basil In a large pot of boiling water, cook the pasta until al dente, or tender but slightly firm in the center. Drain the pasta and rinse with cold water. Place the tomatoes in a large bowl. Stir in the olive oil, salt, and pepper. Gently mix in the cooled pasta, spinach, and almonds. Just before serving, stir in the basil.

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Using Fresh Herbs in Cooking Most herbs can be rinsed to remove surface dirt and dabbed dry with a paper towel. Avoid vigorous washing. Store fresh herbs in the refrigerator, gathered in bunches. Stand the herbs in a small container with about 1 inch of water. Store individual sprigs of herbs wrapped in a damp paper towel and then sealed in a small plastic bag in the refrigerator crisper. Watch for and remove mold or brown spots, which indicates the herb is deteriorating. Harvest fresh herbs with a pair of kitchen shears, and chop herbs with a sharp knife. In most cases, the woody stems of herbs are discarded, and the leaves and tender stems are chopped. To chop basil, stack the leaves on top of one another and roll the stack to form a caterpillar-shaped tube. With a sharp knife, slice across the roll to form thin, ribbon-like cuts. Some herbs with tiny leaves, such as thyme or oregano, need very little chopping. For best flavor and color, add fresh herbs during the last 20 minutes of cooking, if possible. This is especially important for fresh basil, which tends to darken when cooked for longer periods.

Red Beans and Rice with Chili Vinaigrette makes 8 servings

This recipe has been part of my repertoire for a long time because it travels well and tastes best when served at room temperature. Instead of rice, 3 cups of any cooked grain can be used, including wheat berries, bulgur, or, as my brother-in-law Mike enjoys, orzo.

3 cups cooked brown rice 1½ cups cooked, or one 15-ounce can, dark kidney beans, drained 1½ cups cooked, or one 15-ounce can, light kidney beans, drained 1½ cups fresh, frozen, or canned corn kernels 1 red bell pepper, seeded and chopped 2 green onions, thinly sliced (mostly the green part) 1⁄3 cup canola oil 1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar 1 tablespoon packed brown sugar 1 teaspoon chili powder ½ teaspoon ground cumin 1 teaspoon salt   In a bowl, combine the rice, beans, corn, bell pepper, and green onion. Toss to mix. In another bowl, combine the oil, vinegar, brown sugar, chili powder, cumin, and salt. Whisk until the sugar dissolves. Pour the dressing over the salad and toss to coat. Let stand at room temperature, tossing occasionally, for up to an hour before serving.

Pea and Peanut Salad makes about 10 servings

And now for something completely different—a salad based on garden-variety green peas. Fresh peas

Two 12-ounce bag frozen peas (about 5 cups), thawed and drained if necessary 1½ cups Spanish peanuts (about 8 ounces) 1 cup mayonnaise 2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce

have a short growing season in Kentucky, so frozen green peas (but not canned) are a good alternative. When we lived in Michigan, this salad appeared in salad bars

In a bowl, combine the peas and peanuts. Stir in the mayonnaise and Worcestershire sauce and mix well. For best flavor, refrigerate at least 2 hours before serving.

in the area. This recipe is from the now closed Ember’s Restaurant in Mount Pleasant, Michigan.

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Father’s Day If the walls of the dining room in my Lexington childhood home could talk, they would speak of the turkey and dressing we ate there every Thanksgiving, the country ham and biscuits for our Christmas Day buffet, and the wedding cakes cut during family wedding receptions. They might even speak of one sunny Father’s Day afternoon when my sisters and I transformed that dining room into a makeshift bedroom for my father. That year, my father was celebrating his second Father’s Day as a cancer patient. He was tired, thin, and, as it turned out, only three weeks from departing this world for the next. His illness had rendered his legs too weak to ascend the steps to my parents’ bedroom, so we moved his bed downstairs, closer to his chair, to make his days and nights a little easier for him and for my mother. Later in the evening, after the heavy furniture lifting was over, our family enjoyed a barbecue meal complete with pulled pork, coleslaw, fried pickles, and sweet tea. Dad nibbled at the food, but lacked the fervor and enjoyment for eating he once had. He sat in his recliner in the TV room while the rest of the family gathered around the large table in the adjacent “eating room.” I sat with Dad and encouraged him to eat. As I helped him lift a tumbler filled with vanilla milkshake to his mouth, he looked me in the eye and asked, “How will I get any better if I can’t eat?” I knew the answer, but during this tender moment with my dad, my heart wouldn’t let my voice speak. I placed the milkshake back on the TV table, looked him in the eye, and said, “It’s okay, Dad. Just eat and drink what you can.” On Father’s Day the next year, as I mourned the loss of my father, I turned my attention toward my father-in-law Henry. We visited him in Lexington and roasted chicken on the grill. Henry was not feeling up to snuff that day, and although we were unable to put a finger on the cause of his fatigue, he seemed to have lost his spark and spunk. In August, Henry was diagnosed with colon cancer, and he died six weeks later following a complicated surgery.

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In fifteen short, grief-filled months, we both lost our fathers, and our three children were now without any grandfathers. “I don’t know why we don’t have any grandpas,” I replied to my son Neil, who was firing off questions from the backseat of the van. “I guess God was ready for them to come to heaven,” Neil said. As hard as the losses were, I knew his youthful wisdom was correct. And although it’s inevitable, we know not the day nor the hour when we will be separated from the ones we love. As Father’s Day again looms on the horizon, I rejoice in the scores of good years and good times we had with our fathers. I plan to fire up the grill and, using my favorite hardwood charcoal, cook a meal for the best male cook I know. We’ll open a bottle of our favorite beverage and toast to Carl, to Henry, and to all fathers everywhere. Here’s a Father’s Day menu to share with your father.

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menu Blueberry Spinach Salad Flat Iron Steak with Brown Sugar Rub Roasted Potato Salad with Olives and Capers Garlic Scape Pesto on sliced whole-grain baguette Moist Carrot Sheet Cake (page 192) Mojito or Bluegrass Breeze (page 263)

Blueberry Spinach Salad makes about 8 servings

A fresh blend of sweet blueberries and salty Feta cheese makes this a refreshing change from a

dressing ¼ cup raspberry vinegar 2 teaspoons Dijon mustard 1 teaspoon sugar ½ teaspoon salt ½ cup olive oil

traditional garden salad. For local blueberries, visit

salad

Brackenridge Berry Farm

8 ounces fresh baby spinach (about 8 cups) 1 cup fresh blueberries, picked over and rinsed 4 ounces Feta, crumbled ½ cup chopped pecans, toasted

in Brooksville, a small family farm that specializes in “u-pick” berries.

For the dressing, whisk together the vinegar, mustard, sugar, and salt in a bowl. Slowly whisk in the olive oil. The dressing will thicken and become lighter in color. For the salad, place the spinach in a large salad bowl. Add half the dressing and gently toss to coat. Toss in the blueberries, Feta, and pecans. Add more dressing if desired.

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Flat Iron Steak with Brown Sugar Rub makes 8 servings

Whether sautéed for fajitas or flame-cooked for a simple entrée, beef steaks are one of the easiest cuts to cook at

One 2-pound beef chuck flat iron steak 2 tablespoons brown sugar 1 tablespoon garlic powder 1 tablespoon onion powder 1 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon freshly cracked black pepper

home. A newer cut of beef is the flat iron steak, a modified version of a top blade roast, cut from the shoulder of the cow. For years, butchers were faced with a problem: what to do with the blade roast, a relatively tender and beefy cut of meat but with a tough piece of connective tissue running down the center. Researchers from Nebraska devised a method of cutting the blade roast to remove the tough connective tissue, leav-

Lay the steak in a shallow baking dish. To prepare the rub, mix the brown sugar, garlic powder, onion powder, salt, and pepper together. Evenly distribute half the mixture over the top of the steak and rub it all over the surface of the meat. Flip the steak and repeat with the remaining rub. Let stand for 30 minutes at room temperature. Preheat the grill to medium high. Place the steak on the grill and cook for 5 minutes. Watch carefully to ensure the sugar doesn’t burn. Flip and cook for 5 more minutes for medium-rare, 6 more minutes for medium, and 8 more minutes for medium-well or well-done. Remove from the grill to a platter, cover with foil, and let rest for 10 to 15 minutes before slicing.

ing a large, flat piece of beef from the “top” of the roast that weighs about 1½ to 2 pounds and is evenly thick all around. This top blade steak resembles a triangular-shaped iron (yes, like an iron used to

Grass-Fed Beef Cooking Tip

press clothes)—thus the name

Grass-fed beef is leaner than its conventionally

flat iron steak. The flat iron

raised counterpart. For this reason, it’s best to cook

steak—once a humble cut that

grass-fed beef only to rare or medium-rare to pre-

barely made it out of the back

vent drying out the meat. A marinade, fresh salsa,

of the meat case—is gaining in popularity. A simple brown

or pan sauce helps preserve or add moisture when

sugar rub enhances this beefy,

cooking the beef to well-done.

tender steak.

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Roasted Potato Salad with Olives and Capers makes 8 servings

Roasted potatoes add a creative twist to this warm potato salad that was adapted from a recipe in USA Today.

2 pounds red-skinned potatoes, cut into 1-inch chunks 4 tablespoons olive oil, divided 1½ teaspoons herbes de Provence or dried thyme 1 teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1 tablespoon red wine vinegar 1 tablespoon mayonnaise 2 green onions, white and small portion of green parts, thinly sliced ½ cup pitted and coarsely chopped kalamata olives 2 tablespoons capers ¼ cup chopped fresh parsley In a large bowl, toss the potatoes with 2 tablespoons olive oil. Add herbes de Provence, salt, and pepper. Place the potatoes in a single layer, cut-side down, on a rimmed baking sheet. Set the pan on the lowest rack of the oven. Set the oven to 450°F and cook, without stirring, until the potatoes are tender and golden brown, about 25 minutes.   Meanwhile, in the same bowl used for the potatoes, whisk the vinegar, mayonnaise, and remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil. Stir in the green onion, olives, capers, and parsley. After the potatoes finish cooking, add them to the bowl with the dressing. Toss to coat, and season to taste with more salt and black pepper, if desired. Serve warm for best flavor.

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Garlic and Garlic Scapes Harvesting fresh garlic is one of the highlights of June’s garden events. Very little Kentucky-grown garlic is available in most markets, and in fact, most garlic sold at local supermarkets is grown in China. For true local garlic, look to a farmers’ market. In the springtime, garlic growers sell garlic scapes, the twisty, curvy green shoots that spring forth from garlic plants. The garlic scape must be pinched off to allow the energy to be directed toward growth of the bulb, not for the production of new seed. Garlic scapes can be used in pesto and other dishes where a strong “green” garlic flavor is desired. Fresh garlic bulbs are harvested in June or July and then cured for sale later in the year; they can then be stored until used. Blue Moon Farm in Richmond grows sustainable local garlic and sells it at farmers’ markets in Central Kentucky.

Garlic Scape Pesto makes about 1 cup

After a few iterations, I’ve settled on this recipe for garlic scape pesto. In an effort to mellow its garlicky flavor, I use only ½ cup scapes and an

½ cup chopped garlic scapes ½ cup walnuts ½ cup shredded Parmesan ¼ cup olive oil 2 tablespoons water ¼ teaspoon kosher salt ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

equivalent amount of walnuts and Parmesan. Almonds or pine nuts can be substituted for the walnuts. Spread the pesto on a warm whole-grain

Place all the ingredients in a blender or small food processor. Blend until creamy, scraping down the side of the blender jar or bowl once or twice. Store refrigerated.

baguette or serve over pasta.

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Mojito makes 1 tall drink

Just as mint, bourbon, and May go together, as in Bourbon Mint Slushies (page 124), so

2 ounces sugarcane rum 2 ounces Mint Simple Syrup (page 165) Juice of 1 lime 4 ounces club soda Fresh mint leaves, for garnish

do mint, rum, and June. With a little imagination and a copy of Old Man and the Sea, I can transport myself from Kentucky to Havana with this refreshing

Fill a tall highball glass with ice. Pour in the rum, Mint Simple Syrup, and lime juice. Top off with club soda and stir to combine. Garnish with fresh mint, sip, and enjoy.

lime- and mint-infused drink. To mix either a Mojito or a Mint Julep, first make a sugar syrup, infused with fresh mint. If desired, wet the rim of a highball glass with fresh lime juice and dip it in sugar. For the rum, I recommend a true sugarcane rum such as the Brazilian brand Ypioca Cachaça, sold in wickerwrapped bottles—the Brazilian equivalent of Chianti in a basket.

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Blueberry Mojito makes 1 tall drink

2 cups ice cubes 2 ounces rum 2 ounces Mint Simple Syrup (below) Juice of 1 lime 4 ounces club soda ½ cup fresh blueberries, picked over and rinsed Fresh mint leaves, for garnish Put the ice in a blender. Pour in the rum, Mint Simple Syrup, lime juice, club soda, and blueberries. Blend on high until frothy. Pour into a glass and garnish with fresh mint. Sip and enjoy.

Mint Simple Syrup makes about 2 cups

1 cup water 1 cup sugar 2 cups fresh mint leaves In a saucepan, bring the water to a boil. Turn off the heat and stir in the sugar and mint until the sugar is dissolved. Let steep for at least 30 minutes. Cool, strain, and store in a glass jar or glass pitcher in the refrigerator.

variation: Herb Simple Syrup Substitute fresh lemon balm, lemon basil, thyme, rosemary, or lavender for the mint.

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More for Fathers As the weather gets warmer, the grill gets more use. Serve either of these recipes any time the grill is heated or in place of the Flat Iron Steak with Brown Sugar Rub for Father’s Day.

Grilled Chicken Thighs with Lemon-Herb Oil makes 6 servings

Boneless chicken thighs are one of easiest pieces of a chicken to grill. The meat cooks quickly, and it stays moist and juicy. After grill-

6 boneless chicken thighs 2 tablespoons olive oil 2 tablespoons minced cilantro or parsley Juice of ½ lemon 1 clove garlic, minced ¼ teaspoon salt ¼ teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes

ing the thighs, I bathe them in a “marinade in reverse” that is equally magical on grilled chicken breasts, vegetables, or shrimp.

Preheat the grill to medium high. Lightly oil the grill rack so the chicken won’t stick. Lay the chicken pieces on the grill, cover, and cook for 5 to 7 minutes on one side. Check the chicken periodically to be sure it is cooking evenly and not burning. Turn the chicken over and continue to cook until it is cooked through, about 5 to 10 minutes, depending on the thickness of the chicken.   Meanwhile, mix the olive oil, cilantro, lemon juice, garlic, salt, and red pepper flakes in a bowl. After the chicken is cooked, place it in the bowl with the marinade and turn each piece of chicken to coat. Remove the chicken to a platter, drizzle with the herbed oil, and serve.

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Grilled Bourbon Pork Tenderloin makes about 8 servings

Inspired by a marinade in the Pride of Kentucky cookbook, my recipe makes use of Kentucky’s favorite distilled spirit for a robust marinade that tastes best

Two 1- to 1½-pound pieces pork tenderloin ¼ cup Kentucky bourbon ¼ cup canola oil ¼ cup reduced-sodium soy sauce or tamari 4 cloves garlic, minced 2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

with pork but is appetizing with chicken breasts too.

Stand a gallon-size zip-top bag in a deep bowl so the bag stands open. Place the pork tenderloin pieces in the bag. Pour in the bourbon, oil, and soy sauce. Add the garlic, Worcestershire sauce, mustard, and pepper. Partially zip the bag and squeeze out the air. Close the zip top completely and turn the bag to mix the ingredients and coat the pork. Refrigerate for at least 2 hours or up to 8 hours.   Preheat the grill to medium high. Cook the pork for about 30 minutes, or until a thermometer inserted into the thickest part measures 150°F. Remove to a platter, cover with foil, and let rest for 10 minutes before slicing. The final internal temperature for cooked pork is 160°F.

variation: Oven-Roasted Bourbon Pork Tenderloin To cook in the oven, preheat the oven to 400°F. Heat a large ovenproof skillet over medium-high heat. Brown the pork for 5 minutes on each side. Bake, covered, for 15 to 20 minutes, or until a thermometer registers 150°F. Cover and let rest for 10 minutes before slicing.

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July Our fear of death is like our fear that summer will be short, but when we have had our swing  of pleasure, our fill of fruit, and our swelter of heat, we say we have had our day. —ralph waldo emerson  

Summertime is here, along with hot weather, picnics, sweat bees, and tablecloths flapping in the breeze. When the outdoor temperature soars above 90°F and the air gets thick, Mother Nature gives me permission to live life differently. “Try to move slower. Bask in the sunshine,” she says. As the summer days move along, the food in my kitchen transforms. Countertops are covered with tomatoes, cherries, and peaches, and the refrigerator is filled with blueberries, basil, corn, watermelon, and iced tea. Stashed in the freezer are popsicles, and thanks to the gift of an ice cream maker for my July birthday, we frequently make homemade ice cream. The summers of my childhood seemed carefree and unscheduled from my young, four-eyed perspective. I also have many hot and humid memories of activities such as Girl Scout camp and vacations at the beach. When I was at home, my days involved mostly goofing around with my sisters and my neighborhood friends, riding my bicycle to the bookmobile, and having lunch at home. Every day at noon Dad would drive home, and together we’d watch the local news and eat grilled cheese or fried bologna sandwiches with a side of sweet pickles. For a treat, Mom would whip up homemade vanilla milkshakes. I can still hear the whir of the blender and

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feel the excitement of spying a gallon of milk and a tub of ice cream sitting by the stove. Across town at my grandmother’s house, summertime meals had a special appeal. Her bungalow kitchen was already warm, and the thought of turning on the oven didn’t light her fire. To combat the heat she’d fix a cold supper complete with sliced ham, cottage cheese, garden-ripe tomatoes, and a green salad. After dinner we’d move to her screened-in back porch and sit at a small round table covered with a vinyl tablecloth. She’d tune her transistor radio to the Cincinnati Reds, and we’d eat bowls of ice cream with chocolate sauce while we watched the sun disappear over the trees. To this day, I’m still challenged to make the lazy days of summer different from the rest of the year. We get a little sweatier and a lot stickier. We get up early, stay up late, and wear ourselves out in the heat. And in between, we eat food that keeps us cool. For a unique summertime activity, check out the Berea Craft Festival. In addition to its displays of fine handcrafted items, the festival serves regional foods such as grilled chicken, pork tenderloin sandwiches, corn roasted in the husk, baked potatoes, funnel cakes, and the ever-popular kettle corn.

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Good Morning Food Oatmeal is a favorite breakfast in our house. The following recipes offer two different ways to cook and enjoy the whole-grain goodness of oats. To keep the kitchen cool on a summer day, I bake the granola early in the morning.

Crunchy Pecan Granola makes about 7 to 8 cups, depending on the optional ingredients

Granola is a crunchy breakfast cereal or snack that is best made ahead of time. For a granola parfait, layer the granola with vanilla

4 cups old-fashioned oats 2 cups chopped pecans ¼ teaspoon cinnamon ¼ teaspoon salt 2 tablespoons canola or flax seed oil ¼ cup Kentucky sorghum or molasses ½ cup pure maple syrup or Kentucky honey 1 cup raisins or dried peaches or cherries, optional ½ cup shredded coconut, optional

yogurt and seasonal berries, or enjoy it plain with milk or soy milk.

Preheat the oven to 300°F. Spray a rimmed baking sheet with nonstick cooking spray. In a large bowl, combine the oats, pecans, cinnamon, and salt. Toss the mixture with the oil, sorghum, and maple syrup. Spread on the prepared baking sheet and bake for 30 minutes, stirring every 10 minutes. Remove from the oven and stir in the optional dried fruit and coconut. Cool and store in an airtight container.

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Overnight Oatmeal with Yogurt and Berries makes 4 servings

Inspired by a recipe I tested for Janet Brill, this oatmeal is mixed the night before and served straight from the refrigerator. It’s a refreshing way to eat fresh berries and oats.

1½ cups quick-cooking oats ¾ cup vanilla yogurt ½ cup orange juice 1 tablespoon Kentucky honey 1 cup sliced strawberries ½ cup fresh blueberries ½ apple, cored and finely chopped ¼ cup ground flax seed ½ cup chopped walnuts ¼ teaspoon cinnamon   In a large bowl, combine the oats, yogurt, orange juice, and honey. Let stand 5 minutes. Gently fold in the strawberries, blueberries, apple, flax seed, and walnuts. Sprinkle with cinnamon. Cover and refrigerate overnight. Serve cold.

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Please Pass the Mayonnaise I spent my formative years in a Miracle Whip family. While visiting my grandmother, however, my taste buds sampled another culinary world where Hellmann’s mayonnaise reigned. Boy, her ham sandwiches tasted good with Hellmann’s spread on the bread. Confused and torn, I betrayed my family and turned to the dark side, as I developed a preference for Hellmann’s mayonnaise that persists to this day. A few summers ago, my mother-in-law and I were working side by side in my kitchen whipping up a batch of her famous potato salad. It was the Fourth of July, and Warren was barbecuing ribs. Due to my determination to document Nina’s recipe, our potato salad–making session was taking considerably longer than usual as I weighed and measured every ingredient. We were progressing nicely, and I even felt a little smug because I had remembered to buy a jar of sweet pickle relish containing tiny bits of red pepper, just as Nina had requested. But when I reached into the refrigerator and pulled out my jar of Hellmann’s mayonnaise, the stirring and chopping screeched to a halt. Nina murmured sullenly, “I always use Miracle Whip in my potato salad.” A quiet mood settled over the kitchen, for now we were straying from authenticity. Nina quietly whisked together the mayonnaise and yellow mustard. Then, in a lastditch attempt to re-create the taste of Miracle Whip, she added dabs of sugar and vinegar. As we sealed the bowl with plastic wrap and placed it in the refrigerator, the kitchen remained silent. Despite our mayonnaise mishap, my family devoured the potato salad, along with a platter of barbecued ribs, a pan of baked beans, garlic bread, and a juicy watermelon. Later that evening, over a piece of Coca-Cola cake, I had the nerve to ask Nina if she liked the potato salad. She smiled and said, “Well, it looked like mine, but it didn’t taste the same without my Miracle Whip.”

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Barbecue on the Fourth Besides being the best male cook I know, my husband Warren is the best barbecue chef in Kentucky, bar none. (I know these are fightin’ words, but I stand by what I say.) Give him a few slabs of ribs, a beef brisket, or a pork shoulder, and in about twelve smoky, labor-intensive hours, we’re eating fall-off-the-bone-tender meat. The secret is his patience and his willingness to coax the meat into a moist, succulent state. I love him for this skill, and I have his late father Henry Green to thank for the smoker-side cooking lessons. (Ironically, Henry Green was also the name of the African American gentleman who reportedly opened one of the first commercial barbecue stands in Kentucky—in Owensboro, home of the famous barbecued mutton at Moonlight Barbecue.) Any lesson in a life skill, such as barbecuing (or how to iron a shirt or balance a checkbook), is a gift that keeps on giving. Knowing his background, I can understand why my slow cooker pulled pork barbecue recipe (see later) met a bit of resistance. Warren couldn’t imagine eating pork shoulder if it hadn’t spent the better part of a day simmering above hot coals. Despite his protests, I persisted with my recipe. The resulting meat was tender but, admittedly, lacked that full smoky flavor. Nonetheless, it’s a useful recipe for feeding a crowd or a hungry family when the smoke box can’t be tended due to time constraints or inclement weather. And in terms of flavor, cost, and texture, it hands down beats the tubs of pork barbecue sold at the supermarket. How to serve pulled pork is an individual decision. The bread, sauce, and slaw options run the gamut from soft, sliced white bread served on the side to pork piled high on a bun with sauce and slaw. While we’re a sauce-it-when-we-eat-it family, some sauce the whole batch of barbecue before serving.

menu Ale-8 One Slow Cooker Pork Barbecue Sweet and Sour Creamy Coleslaw or Sunflower Slaw Cornmeal-Crusted Fried Green Tomatoes Nina’s Potato Salad Sweet Bourbon Baked Beans Bread and Butter Freezer Pickles (page 218) Fresh Herbed Lemonade, Sweet Iced Tea, or Arnold Palmer Buttermilk Black-’n’-Blue Berry Cobbler Sour Cream Lemon Loaf Cake (page 131)

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Ale-8 One Slow Cooker Pork Barbecue makes about 12 servings

Nothing holds a candle to home-smoked meat, but this slow-cooked version works in a pinch—a large pinch piled high on a bun, that is. It uses Kentucky’s own soft

1 large onion, thinly sliced One 4- to 4½-pound pork shoulder or Boston butt pork roast One 12-ounce can Ale-8 One 2 tablespoons Basic Barbecue Dry Rub (page 177) 2 cups Warren’s Henry Bain–Style Barbecue Sauce (page 178), Brown Sugar Bourbon Barbecue Sauce (page 178), or the barbecue sauce of your choice

drink, Ale-8 One. This spicy soda, bottled in Winchester since 1926, is sold around the state. If Ale-8 One isn’t available, substitute a spicy ginger ale. Just like a true, wood-fired smoking process, low and slow is the rule. For best results, start early in the morning or let the pork slow-cook overnight. In my (oblong) slow cooker set on low, the pork takes about 11 hours to reach a fork-tender state. Check the tenderness of the meat after

Place half the onion in the bottom of a slow cooker. Lay the pork shoulder on top of the onion. Pour the soda over the pork and sprinkle with the dry rub and remaining onion. Cover and cook on low for 11 hours. At this point, the meat should be fork tender, which happens when the internal temperature reaches about 200­°F. If it’s not fork tender, turn the meat over, cover, and cook for 1 to 2 more hours. When the pork is done, place it on a platter and shred and chop the meat. Keep the meat warm, and serve the barbecue sauce warm on the side. Alternatively, discard the juice from the slow cooker and place the meat back in it. Mix in the barbecue sauce and warm before serving.

about 10 hours to gauge how quickly or slowly your slow cooker cooks.

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variation: Oven-Baked Pork Barbecue This oven-baked alternative leads to pulled pork in about 4 hours instead of an all-day process. Preheat the oven to 325°F. Spray a roasting pan with nonstick cooking spray. Place half the onion slices in the bottom of a large roasting pan. Lay the pork shoulder on top of the onion slices. Pour in the Ale-8 One soda, and sprinkle the pork shoulder with the dry rub and the rest of the sliced onion. Cover the roasting pan tightly with foil. Bake in the oven for about 4 hours, or until fork tender. (The timing for oven-baked fork-tender pork shoulder is about 40 minutes per pound. So for a 5-pound piece of pork, I plan on a cooking time of about 3½ to 4 hours. I don’t even start to check the meat until after 3 hours. Just let the meat cook, with no poking or prodding. Test the meat, and if it’s not fork tender, turn it over, cover it, and keep cooking.) When the meat is cool enough to handle, shred and chop it. Keep the meat warm and serve with warm barbecue sauce on the side, or return the meat to the pan, mix in the barbecue sauce, and reheat before serving.

variation: Smoked Pork Shoulder Place the pork roast in a baking dish, fat-side down. Rub the roast with the barbecue rub, pushing it down into slits cut into the meat. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate at least 1 hour or overnight. Set up the smoker, and smoke the meat at 200­°F to 250°F, until fork tender. This may take as long as 12 hours, depending on how big the piece of pork is. Sometimes, if we’re pressed for time, we smoke the pork for 2 to 3 hours, then place it in a large roasting pan, cover it with foil, and finish cooking in a 325°F oven until fork tender.

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Succulent Pork Barbecue Every Kentucky cook needs a good pork barbecue recipe up his or her sleeve, and I have learned several juicy tips over the years. First, a bit of terminology: the best meat for pork barbecue is an economical, rectangular roast from the top part of the pig’s shoulder called Boston butt, Boston roast, fresh pork butt, or Bostonstyle butt. (Don’t ask me why a pork shoulder is called a butt.) Pork shoulder is sold bone-in or boneless, in sizes ranging from 4 to 8 pounds. I consider this cut the chicken thigh of a pig—the meat is moist, dark, and distinctive. The well-exercised muscles in the shoulder crisscross around a bone and are supported by collagen and tendons, with fat marbled throughout. Because of this hodgepodge of muscle, tendon, and collagen, the meat has to be coaxed into tenderness. Given enough time to cook, though, it shreds easily for the best pulled pork barbecue around. The flavor varies, depending on the method of cooking—smoked, oven-roasted, or slowcooked—but the end result will be fork-tender goodness. What does fork tender mean? Poke a fork in the cooked pork and twist: the meat shouldn’t feel tight, and it readily falls apart.

Basic Barbecue Dry Rub makes about ¼ cup

This is a fresh alternative to store-bought mixtures. My love affair with spices never ends.

2 tablespoons sweet or smoked paprika 1 tablespoon brown sugar 2 teaspoons garlic powder 1½ teaspoons salt 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1 teaspoon chili powder 1⁄8 teaspoon cayenne pepper Mix all the ingredients together and store in an airtight jar or container.

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Warren’s Henry Bain–Style Barbecue Sauce makes about 4 cups

Henry Bain Sauce is a Kentucky tradition, named after the headwaiter at the Pendennis Club in Louisville.

One 12-ounce bottle chili sauce 1½ cups ketchup ½ cup light brown sugar or peach preserves ½ cup apple cider vinegar ¼ cup Kentucky sorghum or molasses ¼ cup Worcestershire sauce 1 teaspoon hot red pepper sauce In a saucepan, mix all the ingredients together. Bring to a simmer and cook for 15 minutes. Serve warm over pork barbecue, or cool and store in glass jars in the refrigerator.

Brown Sugar Bourbon Barbecue Sauce makes about 4 cups

This sweet sauce, flavored with bourbon, is inspired by a recipe I developed for Barbara Smith.

1 tablespoon canola oil 1 medium onion, finely chopped (about 1 cup) 1 cup ketchup One 12-ounce bottle chili sauce ½ cup Kentucky bourbon ¼ cup light brown sugar ¼ cup Worcestershire sauce ¼ cup Kentucky sorghum or molasses 2 tablespoons apple cider vinegar 1⁄8 teaspoon cayenne pepper In a saucepan, heat the canola oil over medium heat. Add the onion and cook until softened, about 5 minutes. Add the ketchup, chili sauce, bourbon, brown sugar, Worcestershire sauce, sorghum, vinegar, and cayenne pepper. Bring to a simmer and cook for about 10 minutes. Serve warm, or let cool and store in glass jars in the refrigerator.

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Sweet and Sour Creamy Coleslaw makes about 8 servings

Coleslaw and barbecue are inseparable. Coleslaw invites improvisation—thus the variations below. Vary the color by using either red or green cabbage.

8 cups shredded green cabbage (about one 2-pound head or one 16-ounce bag preshredded cabbage) 4 carrots, peeled and grated ¾ cup mayonnaise ¼ cup apple cider vinegar ¼ cup sugar 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard ½ teaspoon celery seed ¼ teaspoon sweet paprika, optional ½ teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper Place the cabbage and carrot in a large bowl—the bigger the bowl, the easier it is to toss the slaw with the dressing. In a small bowl, whisk together the mayonnaise, vinegar, sugar, mustard, celery seed, paprika, salt, and pepper until the sugar is dissolved. Pour the dressing over the cabbage and stir well to combine. For best results, refrigerate the slaw for at least 30 minutes before serving.

variations Curry Coleslaw: Substitute 2 teaspoons curry powder for the celery seed. Like-Popeye’s-Fried-Chicken Coleslaw: Omit the celery seed and substitute 2 tablespoons dill relish for the Dijon mustard. Poppy Seed Coleslaw: Substitute ½ teaspoon poppy seeds for the celery seed.

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Sunflower Slaw makes about 8 servings

I love the crunchy house salad at the Alfalfa Restaurant in Lexington. This is my variation of it, and it makes me feel healthier every time I eat it.

8 cups shredded red or green cabbage (about one 2-pound head or one 16-ounce bag preshredded cabbage) 4 carrots, peeled and grated ¼ cup olive oil Juice of 1 lemon (about 2 tablespoons) 2 tablespoons apple cider or red wine vinegar 2 tablespoons Kentucky honey ¼ teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper ½ cup alfalfa or broccoli sprouts ¼ cup salted hulled sunflower seeds Place the cabbage and carrot in a large bowl—the bigger the bowl, the easier it is to toss the slaw with the dressing. In a small bowl, whisk the olive oil, lemon juice, vinegar, honey, salt, and pepper until thick. Pour over the cabbage and toss. Stir in the sprouts and sunflower seeds. Refrigerate until ready to serve.

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Cornmeal-Crusted Fried Green Tomatoes makes 4 to 6 servings

Early- and late-summer tomatoes hang green on the vine. My mom believed fried green tomatoes were to be enjoyed when we couldn’t wait for the tomatoes to

4 to 5 large green tomatoes (about 2 pounds) ½ teaspoon salt, divided ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper ½ cup yellow or white cornmeal ½ cup unbleached all-purpose flour 2 large eggs 2 tablespoons water ¼ cup canola oil

ripen or on early fall days when the frost was about to hit. Surprisingly, the main reason my mom liked to fry green tomatoes was because they stayed “good and hot” in the oven—food arriving hot on the table was no small feat when feeding ten people. For a tasty dip, mix up a batch of Green Goddess Dressing (page 118).

Cut the tomatoes into ½-inch-thick slices and lay on a large cutting board or baking sheet. Sprinkle both sides with salt and pepper. In a shallow dish, combine the cornmeal and flour. In another shallow dish, beat the eggs and water together. In a large, deep cast-iron or other heavy skillet, heat ½ inch of canola oil to 365°F. Dip the tomato slices, one at a time, into the egg and let the excess egg drip off. Dredge both sides in the cornmeal and flour mixture. Place the tomatoes in the hot oil, without crowding them, and fry on both sides until golden brown. Drain on a paper towel–lined baking sheet and keep warm in a 200°F oven until served. Sprinkle with additional salt if desired.

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Potato Salad Potatoes are a bland vegetable, for the most part. For more flavorful potato salad, first cook the potatoes with their skins on. After cooling, peel (if desired) and cut the potatoes into small pieces to create a better ratio of bland potato to flavorful dressing. Also, don’t skimp on additional ingredients and salt to enhance the flavor. Finally, save time, and a pan, by boiling the eggs for Nina’s Potato Salad (below) along with the potatoes—a genius idea gleaned from watching my sister Kaye cook.

Nina’s Potato Salad makes 12 servings

Over the years, my motherin-law Nina has chopped and mixed hundreds of pounds of potato salad. It graced the table every time my father-in-law Henry fired up the grill to barbecue ribs. Nina insists on Miracle

4 pounds all-purpose potatoes, such as Yukon Gold (about 10 medium) 6 large eggs 1 medium onion, chopped (about 1 cup) 4 ribs celery, chopped (about 1 cup) 1¼ cups Miracle Whip ¼ cup sweet pickle relish ¼ cup yellow mustard 1 teaspoon salt ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Whip, but I substitute mayonnaise when she’s not looking.

Place the potatoes in a large pan. Gently lay the eggs on top of the potatoes. Cover with cold water and bring to a boil. Boil for 10 minutes and remove the eggs. Continue cooking the potatoes for 20 more minutes, or until tender when pierced with a fork. Meanwhile, rinse the eggs in cold water, peel, chop, and refrigerate until needed. When the potatoes are cooked and cooled, peel and cut them into small pieces. Add the chopped eggs, onion, and celery. In a small bowl, stir together the Miracle Whip, relish, mustard, salt, and pepper. Pour over the potatoes and fold gently, mixing thoroughly to combine. Keep chilled and serve cold.

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Sweet Bourbon Baked Beans makes 12 servings

This dish was inspired by a baked bean recipe from Hunt to Harbor by the Junior League of Baltimore. I use vegetarian baked beans, but any variety of canned pork and beans works fine. To make without the bourbon, substitute ½ cup vinegar.

½ pound (8 ounces) bacon, cut into ¼-inch thin strips 3 cups canned vegetarian baked beans (one 28-ounce can) 1½ cups cooked, or one 15-ounce can, baby lima or butter beans, drained 1½ cups cooked, or one 15-ounce can, red beans, drained 1 large onion, chopped (about 2 cups) ¾ cup brown sugar ¼ cup Kentucky bourbon ¼ cup apple cider vinegar ½ teaspoon dry mustard powder Place the bacon strips in a large skillet over medium heat. Stir and cook until crisp. Drain on a paper towel– lined plate. Pour all the bacon grease out of the skillet, except for about 2 tablespoons.   Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 350°F. Spray a 13×9×2-inch baking dish with nonstick cooking spray. In the prepared dish, stir together the baked beans, lima or butter beans, and red beans. In the skillet with the bacon grease, cook the onion over medium heat until golden, about 10 minutes. Add the brown sugar, bourbon, vinegar, and mustard powder, stirring to dissolve the sugar and scraping any brown bits off the bottom of the skillet. Cook for 1 minute. Pour the sauce over the beans, and stir to combine. Sprinkle with crisp bacon bits. Bake for 1 hour until bubbly and the juice has thickened.

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Fresh Herbed Lemonade makes 2 cups syrup, enough for 2 quarts lemonade or 8 single servings

Nothing is more refreshing than a large pitcher of fresh lemonade stuffed with thick

1 cup sugar 1 cup water 1 large bunch or 1 handful fresh herbs, well rinsed, optional 1 cup fresh lemon juice, from about 6 to 7 thin-skinned lemons 6 cups (1½ quarts) tap water or sparkling water

slices of lemon. My favorite way to make lemonade is to prepare lemon-spiked simple sugar syrup and mix the syrup with either tap water or sparkling water, depending on one’s preference. Herbs such as lemon thyme,

In a saucepan, bring the sugar and water to a gentle boil, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Turn off the heat, add the herbs, and steep for 15 minutes. Use a wooden spoon to mash down the herbs and release their flavors. Let cool. Stir in the lemon juice. Strain into a pitcher. Stir in the water. Stir and serve over ice garnished with slices of lemon or sprigs of fresh herbs.

oregano, basil, or rosemary steeped in the sugar syrup

variation

add a summertime twist.

To make a single serving of lemonade, fill a tall glass with ice, pour ¼ cup Fresh Herbed Lemonade syrup over the ice, and top off with ¾ cup club soda, sparkling water, or tap water.

Ice cubes made of lemonade or Sweet Iced Tea (page 185) offer a unique way to keep a glass of summertime refreshment cool. Put iced tea cubes in lemonade or vice versa.

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Sweet Iced Tea makes 2 quarts

When I make iced tea, I steep

4 cups water 2 family-size tea bags ½ cup sugar, optional

the tea bags in boiling water for 10 minutes. Warren thinks that’s a lot of brewing, but it serves a purpose. It allows me to dilute the tea with cold tap water to cool it quickly and prevent cloudiness. Another option is to brew

Bring the water to a boil. Pour it into a heatproof, 2-quart pitcher. Add the tea bags and steep for 10 minutes. Remove the tea bags, gently squeezing out the excess water. Add sugar, if desired, stirring until dissolved. Fill the pitcher to the top with cold water. Stir and serve over ice.

the tea and then serve a simple sugar syrup on the side, letting

variation: Arnold Palmer

everyone sweeten their own tea.

Fill a tall glass with ice. Pour ¼ cup Fresh Herbed Lemonade syrup (page 184) over the ice and top with ¾ cup Sweet Iced Tea.

See Mint Simple Syrup (page 165). Make sure to use a heatproof pitcher or container. Boiling water will shatter a glass or pottery pitcher.

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Buttermilk Black-’n’-Blue Berry Cobbler makes one 9-inch cobbler

This sweet mix of blackberries and blueberries is divine with Homemade Vanilla Ice Cream (page 195) or Sour Cream Whipped Cream (page 242).

topping 6 tablespoons (¾ stick) butter 1¾ cups unbleached all-purpose flour 1 tablespoon baking powder 1 teaspoon baking soda ¼ cup sugar 1 cup low-fat buttermilk Cinnamon and sugar for dusting

Putting the biscuit topping on warm filling helps

filling

cook the underside of the

1 pint (2 cups) blueberries 1 pint (2 cups) blackberries ¼ to ½ cup sugar, depending on the sweetness of the berries Zest from 1 lemon Juice of ½ lemon

topping.

Preheat the oven to 375°F. Place the butter for the topping in the freezer to chill. Spray a 9-inch baking dish with nonstick cooking spray. For the filling, spoon the berries into the prepared baking dish. Stir in the sugar, lemon zest, and lemon juice. Place in the oven and bake for 10 minutes, until bubbly around the edges.   Meanwhile, for the topping, stir together the flour, baking powder, baking soda, and sugar. Using the large holes on a cheese or box grater, grate the chilled butter into the flour. Toss to evenly distribute the butter. Stir in the buttermilk to form soft, lumpy dough. Use a large spoon to drop golf ball–sized lumps of dough onto the hot berries, about ½ inch apart. Sprinkle with sugar and cinnamon. Bake until the topping is cooked and the fruit is bubbly around the edges, about 25 to 30 minutes. Serve warm.

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Sheet Cakes of All Kinds For me, sheet cakes conjure up images of a small restaurant with mismatched chairs, rickety tables, and thick white coffee mugs (sounds like my kitchen). Homemade cakes make me nostalgic as I remember squares of chocolate cake served at a church picnic or a freshly baked cake delivered to our family home after the death of my father. My aunt Eileen is known for her yellow cake with caramel icing, and to this day our family celebrates almost every occasion with a freshly baked cake. They know I’ll bake a coconut- and pecan-laden Italian cream cake for Easter dinner and a yellow cake with chocolate fudge frosting for birthdays. Almost any cake recipe can be baked as a sheet cake. A sheet cake is fully cooked when it starts to pull away from the sides of the pan and is set in the middle or when it springs back when pressed lightly in the center. A toothpick inserted into the center of the cake should come out clean. Sheet cakes can be cooled, frosted, and served straight from the pan, making them easy to transport, especially with a cake pan that has a snap-on or slide-on lid.

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Nina’s Coca-Cola Cake makes one 13×9×2-inch sheet cake

Warren grew up in a family that was loyal to its favorite brandname soda pop—Coca-Cola. So I shouldn’t have been surprised when I proposed making brownies for a family cookout and he said, “How about a Coca-Cola cake instead?” I had never made this particular kind of cake, so

2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour 2 cups sugar 1 teaspoon baking soda ¼ teaspoon salt ½ cup canola oil ½ cup (1 stick) butter 4 tablespoons unsweetened cocoa powder 1 cup Coca-Cola ½ cup low-fat buttermilk 2 large eggs 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract Chocolate Fudge Frosting (page 194)

I called Warren’s mother, Nina, and she carefully read me her trusty recipe. The ingredients went together easily and resulted in a moist, chocolaty sheet cake with a fudge-like frosting. This cake travels well and fits the bill for a summertime cake of the most brand-loyal kind. Before moving to Lexington, my father-in-law, Henry, worked for a Coca-Cola bottler in Du Quoin,

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Spray a 13×9×2-inch cake pan with nonstick cooking spray with flour. Whisk together the flour, sugar, baking soda, and salt in a small bowl. In a saucepan, melt and stir together the oil, butter, cocoa powder, and CocaCola. Stir in the flour mixture, mixing well. Add the buttermilk, eggs, and vanilla. Pour the batter into the prepared cake pan. Bake for 30 to 35 minutes, or until the cake is set in the middle and springs back when pressed lightly. Cool on a rack. Frost while warm with Chocolate Fudge Frosting.

Illinois, and this recipe became popular for the Green family’s Fourth of July barbecues.

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Fresh Blackberry Sheet Cake makes one 13×9×2-inch sheet cake

This dark, spicy cake is adapted from a Kentucky Proud recipe. If desired, frost with Soft Caramel Icing (page 194) or simply dust with powdered sugar.

3 cups unbleached all-purpose flour 2 teaspoons baking soda 1½ teaspoons cinnamon 1½ teaspoons allspice 1 cup canola oil 2 cups sugar 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract 3 large eggs 2 cups fresh blackberries 1 cup chopped pecans 1 cup raisins, optional Preheat the oven to 350°F. Spray a 13×9×2-inch cake pan with nonstick cooking spray with flour. In a bowl, whisk together the flour, baking soda, cinnamon, and allspice. With an electric mixer, blend the oil, sugar, and vanilla. Add the eggs one at a time, mixing well after each addition. Add the flour mixture in 3 parts, beating well after each addition. Fold in the blackberries, pecans, and raisins. Pour into the prepared pan. Bake for 40 to 45 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted in the center of the cake comes out clean. Let cool in the pan.

Blackberries In Kentucky, blackberries typically start to ripen near the end of June or the first week in July. Because the berries wait for no one, and because the birds anxiously wait to gobble them up, blackberries have to be picked as soon as they ripen. Handle the berries gently, and pack them in shallow containers to avoid squishing them. Store the berries in the refrigerator, and rinse them under cool water just before using. And don’t miss the Blackberry Festival in Carlisle, held the first weekend in July since 1948.

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Blackberry Picking Say the word blackberry to my mother, and I’m 100 percent sure she’ll start to reminisce about growing up in Lexington in the 1940s. Around my grandmother’s kitchen, fresh fruit was rare except when blackberry bushes produced; cherry, peach, and apple trees brimmed with fruit; the neighbor’s arbors hung heavy with Concord grapes; and rhubarb (the vegetable cooked as a fruit) sent up their stiff pink stalks. Neighbors shared their abundant but limited varieties of fresh fruit with one another, and everyone worked hard to pick, wash, eat, and preserve the fruit while it lasted. On hot July mornings, my mother and grandmother picked berries by the pailful. For a few days they’d eat all the sugar-coated berries they could stomach and then bake a cobbler or two. The remaining berries would be preserved in small glistening jars topped with paraffin wax. The intent was to extend this short-lived flavor into the fall, when blackberry jam was spread on hot biscuits, and into the Christmas season, when the jam reappeared as an ingredient in a tall cake spread thick with soft caramel icing. Say the word blackberry to one of my older, baby boomer sisters, and I’m 50 percent sure she would follow the same thought process, remembering when we picked thumbnail-sized berries from the same prickly bushes hanging over the back fence behind my grandmother’s house. Blackberry picking coincided with the hottest time of summer, but we helped my grandmother harvest the berries before the birds did. After our fruitful picking sessions, we’d relax on Mamaw’s sleeping porch with our purple-stained fingers wrapped around sweaty glasses of iced tea. Later in the evening, we’d listen to the Cincinnati Reds on her radio, eat cobbler and ice cream, and brush frosty pink fingernail polish on our itchy chigger bites. Now for the heartbreaking part of this story: say the word blackberry to my college-aged niece, my teenaged nephew, or my own children, and I’m 98 percent certain the first thing they’ll think of is a small handheld device used to make phone calls, check e-mail, or update their Facebook status. To them, BlackBerries are electronic and portable and come in a wide variety of sizes and colors. And they can’t be baked in a pie. To my mom, picking blackberries meant fresh fruit. To me, summer wasn’t summer without picking blackberries. Unfortunately for my kids, neither I nor their grandmothers have blackberry bushes to perpetuate this summertime memory. When we want the traditional blackberry taste of summer, we have to buy berries at a farmers’ market or visit a “u-pick” berry farm. (Although when I mentioned this to Warren, he was ready to go buy and plant some cultivated blackberries. Time will tell.) 190  the kentucky fresh cookbook

Golden Buttermilk Sheet Cake makes one 13×9×2-inch sheet cake

This rich yellow cake spotlights one of Kentucky’s favorite ingredients—buttermilk.

¾ cup (1½ sticks) butter 1¾ cups sugar ¾ teaspoon salt 2½ teaspoons baking powder 2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract 4 large eggs 2 egg yolks 1½ cups low-fat buttermilk or plain yogurt 2¾ cups unbleached all-purpose flour Preheat the oven to 350°F. Spray a 13×9×2-inch pan with nonstick cooking spray with flour. In a large bowl, with an electric mixer blend the butter, sugar, salt, baking powder, and vanilla until light and fluffy, at least 5 minutes. Add the eggs and yolks one at a time, beating well after each addition. Mix in the buttermilk. Fold in the flour, stirring until just mixed. Be sure to scrape around the sides and across the bottom of the bowl. Pour the batter into the prepared pan. Bake for about 35 to 40 minutes, or until the cake springs back when pressed lightly in the center. Cool completely in the pan. Frost with Soft Caramel Icing (page 194) or Chocolate Fudge Frosting (page 194).

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Moist Carrot Sheet Cake makes one 13×9×2-inch sheet cake

This cake is so homey, I just love it. My recipe uses golden raisins and applesauce, but sometimes I substitute 1 cup shredded coconut for the raisins and/or 1 cup drained, crushed pineapple for the applesauce. My sister Frances swears by this cake and likes to take it to

2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour or unbleached white wheat flour 1½ teaspoons baking powder 2 teaspoons baking soda 1 teaspoon salt 1½ cups sugar 1½ cups canola oil 4 large eggs 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract 4 carrots, peeled and grated (about 2½ cups) 1 cup chopped pecans or walnuts 1 cup golden raisins 1 cup unsweetened applesauce

parties and picnics.

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Spray a 13×9×2-inch pan with nonstick cooking spray with flour. In a bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt. In a large bowl, stir together the sugar, oil, eggs, and vanilla until the sugar dissolves. Stir in the carrots, nuts, raisins, and applesauce. Using a silicone spatula, fold in the flour mixture until well combined. Pour the batter into the prepared pan. Bake for about 50 minutes, or until the center of the cake springs back slightly when pressed. Cool in the pan. Frost with Vanilla Bean Cream Cheese Frosting or the Bourbon Walnut variation (page 193) or, for a nontraditional frosting, use Soft Caramel Icing (page 194).

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Frosting, Icing, and Ice Cream Use these toppings for the preceding sheet cakes. And who doesn’t like cake with homemade vanilla ice cream?—simplicity at its finest.

Vanilla Bean Cream Cheese Frosting makes enough to frost 1 sheet cake

I like to add the optional vanilla bean to make the frosting look like fresh vanilla bean ice cream.

One 8-ounce package Neufchâtel or cream cheese, softened ½ cup (1 stick) butter, softened 4 cups (1 pound) powdered sugar 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract 1 vanilla bean, optional About 2 tablespoons milk With an electric mixer, beat the cream cheese and butter until fluffy. Beat in the sugar and vanilla. If using the vanilla bean, split it lengthwise; scrape the bean specks out with the edge of a small, sharp knife; and add them to the cream cheese mixture. Turn the mixer to medium high and continue to beat until smooth. With the mixer running, gradually add 1 tablespoon milk and beat well. Gradually add more milk only as needed, until the frosting is soft and spreadable. The test for spreadability is that the frosting doesn’t pull off the top layer of the cake when spread.

variation: Bourbon Walnut Cream Cheese Frosting Substitute 2 tablespoons Kentucky bourbon for the milk, eliminate the vanilla bean, and mix in ½ cup chopped English or black walnuts.

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Chocolate Fudge Frosting makes enough to frost 1 sheet cake

This frosting is designed for Nina’s Coca-Cola Cake (page 188). To make fudge frost-

½ cup (1 stick) butter 4 tablespoons unsweetened cocoa powder 6 tablespoons Coca-Cola 1 pound (4 cups) powdered sugar 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract ½ cup chopped pecans or walnuts

ing for the Golden Buttermilk Sheet Cake (page 191), omit the pecans and substitute milk for the cola.

In a saucepan, melt the butter over low heat. Whisk in the cocoa powder and Coca-Cola. Remove from heat and immediately stir in the powdered sugar and vanilla until smooth. Stir in the nuts. The frosting may look thin, but it will set up when cooled. Immediately pour the frosting on the warm cake, and quickly spread it with a spatula or knife. Allow the cake to cool for several hours before serving.

Soft Caramel Icing makes enough to frost 1 sheet cake

My family’s favorite way to eat

6 tablespoons (¾ stick) butter 1 cup light brown sugar ¼ cup milk 1¾ cup powdered sugar

this brown sugar–infused frosting is on yellow cake, such as Golden Buttermilk Sheet Cake (page 191), but it’s also a tradition on Fresh Blackberry Sheet Cake (page 189) or Kentucky Blackberry Jam Cake (page 319).

In a saucepan, melt the butter over low heat. Turn off the heat and mix in the brown sugar and milk until the sugar is dissolved and the mixture is smooth. Stir in the powdered sugar and beat until smooth. Pour onto the sheet cake and spread.

To keep the frosting soft, be sure not to let the butter and sugar mixture boil, and don’t add any extra powdered sugar—the frosting will thicken as it cools.

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Homemade Vanilla Ice Cream makes 1 quart

If I’m going to the trouble of making a cake from scratch, homemade ice cream isn’t

3 cups half-and-half 1 cup heavy cream 8 large egg yolks 1¼ cups sugar 2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract

much more difficult. My KitchenAid ice cream maker attachment works like a charm, or use a traditional salt-and-ice ice cream freezer or a countertop version. In any case, allow time to chill the cooked custard before freezing the ice cream.

In a saucepan, heat the half-and-half and cream over medium heat until steam rises from the top of the cream. Remove from the heat. Meanwhile, in a large bowl, whisk the egg yolks and sugar until they turn light yellow and the sugar is dissolved. To “temper” the egg yolks, slowly pour about 2 cups of the warm cream into the egg yolks, whisking constantly. The exact amount of cream isn’t important. The goal is to mix the yolks with the warm cream to raise the yolks’ temperature. Pour the yolk-cream mixture back into the saucepan with the remaining cream. Place over low heat and whisk constantly until the temperature reaches 170°F and the mixture coats the back of a metal spoon. Stir in the vanilla. Pour the mixture back into the bowl, and press a piece of plastic wrap onto the surface of the custard to prevent a skin from forming. Refrigerate for 4 to 6 hours. For a quicker chill, place the bowl of custard in a larger bowl filled halfway with ice and water, and stir the custard to cool.   After the custard has chilled, pour it into an ice cream maker and proceed according to the manufacturer’s directions. Serve as soft-serve, or let it harden in the freezer.

july  195

Homemade Waffle Cones makes 6 to 8 cones or bowls

Tender and fresh, these are worth the investment in an electric waffle-cone iron.

1 large egg 1 large egg white ¼ teaspoon salt ½ cup sugar 2⁄3 cup unbleached all-purpose flour 2 tablespoons butter, melted and cooled In a bowl, beat the egg and egg white with a fork until bubbly. Whisk in the salt and sugar until they dissolve and the mixture is light in color, about 1 minute. Add the flour and melted butter, and stir until all the flour is mixed in. Place 3 tablespoons of batter in the center of the waffle-cone iron. Close the lid and bake for 1 minute, until light brown. Remove the waffle from the iron. While hot, roll it into the shape of a cone and pinch the end to seal. Allow to cool before serving with ice cream. To make waffle-cone bowls, turn a 3-inch bowl upside down and drape the warm waffle over the bottom of the bowl, pressing down the sides until set.

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August In August, the large masses of berries, which, when in flower, had attracted many wild bees, gradually assumed their bright velvety crimson hue, and by their weight again bent down and broke their tender limbs.—henry david thoreau

The last full month of summer, August in Kentucky brings some of the hottest temperatures of the year. During the day, cicadas buzz in the trees, and late at night tree crickets sing us to sleep. Farmers’ markets and gardens across the state burst with an abundance of fresh produce. Whether outdoors on our patio or indoors at our kitchen table, August meals revolve around the harvest from the garden. Before the wide availability of food in supermarkets, Kentuckians spent August and September preparing fruits, vegetables, and meats to store and eat throughout the winter. Home food preservation is experiencing a resurgence in popularity as more and more Kentuckians are reacquainting themselves with methods of preserving their own food. It lessens one’s dependence on commercially processed food, and it’s rewarding to store food at its peak of ripeness and create spreads, sauces, jams, and jellies to enjoy all year long. Living in the city of Lexington, my mother and grandmother had small gardens, but because of the nearby markets and supermarkets, they didn’t have to rely on their gardens to provide food for the winter. That said, during World War II, when there was food rationing, Lexington set up

197

large-scale canning operations where individuals could go to can green beans, corn, or tomatoes. My grandfather would take bushels of beans to Lafayette High School in Lexington and can them to ensure enough food for the winter. The garden I tend is not much different from those of my mother and grandmother. I grow a small variety of vegetables and herbs, but for the most part, I rely on local farmers to keep me stocked with summer produce. Like my grandmother, I cook a batch of Margaret’s Chili Sauce (page 219) while tomatoes are abundant, and when cucumbers are piled high on every table at the market, I know it’s time to make Bread and Butter Freezer Pickles (page 218). In Kentucky, an excellent source of information about canning and preserving food is the Kentucky Cooperative Extension Service and its county extension agents. For general information about canning and other methods of food preservation, visit Ball’s website on the subject and that of the National Center for Home Food Preservation. Leifheit USA sells beautiful canning jars and supplies, and Canning Across America is a nationwide collective of cooks, gardeners, and food lovers committed to the revival of the lost art of “putting food by.”

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Good Morning Food Grits and oatmeal are traditional grains to cook and serve at breakfast. Hearty and filling, these cooked cereals can be served with a variety of toppings, including cinnamon; brown sugar; Kentucky honey; sorghum; dried cherries, cranberries, or blueberries; chopped walnuts, pecans, or almonds; fresh berries; and chopped fresh apple.

Creamy Steel-Cut Oats makes about 4 servings

This simple, hearty recipe was inspired by an Alton Brown reci-

1 teaspoon butter 1 cup steel-cut oats 3 cups boiling water ½ cup low-fat buttermilk, soy milk, or milk

pe my brother-in-law Bob cooked for us while on a Michigan vacation. Steel-cut oats are the whole oat groats chopped into a coarse-textured meal. They take a bit longer to cook than their old-fashioned counterpart, but the trade-off in texture is worth

In a saucepan over medium heat, melt the butter. Add the oats and stir for about 2 minutes to toast them. Add the boiling water and reduce the heat to low. Simmer, uncovered and without stirring, for 25 minutes. Then stir in the buttermilk and cook for 10 more minutes. Serve hot with your favorite toppings.

the extra bit of cooking time. Dorsel’s pin-head oats (another name for steel-cut) is traditionally used as the main ingredient in goetta (page 279), but they can also be cooked for breakfast.

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Stone-Ground Grits with Kentucky Honey and Dried Fruit makes about 4 servings

1½ cups milk ¾ cup stone-ground grits Butter, optional 4 teaspoons Kentucky honey ¼ cup dried blueberries, cherries, cranberries, or raisins In a saucepan, bring the milk to a boil. Slowly whisk in the grits. Stir and cook for about 10 minutes or until thick and creamy. Remove from heat and portion into individual bowls. Top with a pat of butter, honey, and berries. Serve hot.

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Caring for Those Who Can’t Care for Themselves Late one night I received one of those startling telephone calls. Although my children were safe at home (not teenagers yet), I dashed to the kitchen and answered the ringing phone. A nurse was on the line: my dad’s cousin had fallen at the nursing home and was on her way, via ambulance, to the emergency room for X-rays. I visualized Frankie in a speeding ambulance, on her way to a hospital where no one—including herself—knew her, her story, or her name. At that moment, I did the only thing I knew to do: I quickly changed my clothes, packed a bag of reading material, and headed to the hospital. Frankie had in fact fractured both her arm and her hip. Surgery was scheduled for the next day, and she spent the following week in the hospital recuperating. Frankie had never married and was an only child, so she had no family, other than me, in the area. When we moved to Northern Kentucky, Frankie lived an independent, lively life in Fort Mitchell. She rode the bus downtown to work, drove to church on Wednesday and Sunday, shopped once a week at Remke’s, and watched our cats when we traveled. When we drove to Lexington for holidays and birthdays, Frankie traveled with us, and on special occasions I met her for lunch at the Greyhound Grill. Time marched on and Frankie retired from her lifelong secretarial job. She sold her car and started to rely on taxis for transportation to the grocery store, the doctor’s office, and the beauty salon. It wasn’t long before uncharacteristic things started to happen: she lost her apartment keys, quit feeding the birds, was unable to call a taxi, and stopped making appointments to have her hair done. A few years ago her neighbor called me: Frankie was wandering around her apartment building, unsure whether it was day or night. Not too long after, I was fortunate to find Frankie a place to live at a local nursing home. The day she left her apartment for good, Frankie walked out with her purse on her arm as if we were going to lunch. Periodically she asked who had her checkbook, but she never asked one question about her old apartment or her clothes. Her

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dementia created a strange set of goggles that made her forget almost everything that had ever meant anything to her, and they clouded my vision of the independent, tidy lady I’d grown close to. My children and I visit Frankie as often as we can. During the drive in the car, I field questions about memory loss while we reminisce about how Frankie and her apartment both smelled like chicken pot pie. When Frankie sees us, she smiles a sweet smile and laughs a catchy laugh. I look through an envelope stuffed with old photos with Frankie while she repeats stories about her father who worked on the railroad, her brother who lived for only a few hours after birth, and her days as a slim brunette at Ludlow High. Before we leave, I typically ask, “Frankie, do you need anything from the drugstore?” (I keep her supplied with tissues, soap, and denture cream.) She grins and replies, “How about a good-looking man?” Father Time’s visits are not equitable. For some, the aging process is graceful. With nothing more than a slight stoop, many seniors care for themselves without a second thought. For others, like Frankie, time swoops in and takes everything they could once do for themselves and sends it packing. They are rendered completely dependent on others for every detail of their lives. As summer draws to a close, and in view of these recent events with Frankie, I spend time in my kitchen not begrudging but rejoicing in my ability to cook for my family. This weekend we’ll gather for one last summertime picnic. We’ll pick up our elderly relatives and bring them to the party. If all goes well, and even if it doesn’t, I guarantee that something from the day will touch my heart. Even if your elderly relatives can’t show it, your involvement in their lives is a gift to them and might touch their hearts in some pretty deep places as well.

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Honey There’s something soothing and natural about flowers, pollen, bees, and honey, at least to me. For millions of years, honey has been produced by bees, and it is purported to have medicinal qualities, antiallergic compounds, and natural woundhealing and throat-soothing abilities. Busy bees make honey from nectar they collect from flowers and the blossoms of trees. In Central and Northern Kentucky, the predominant nectar sources are sweet clover, wildflowers, and black locust, tulip poplar, and sourwood trees. Light-colored honey has a mild flavor, whereas dark honey tends to have a stronger taste. Kentucky honey is superb and somewhat limited in availability, as most of the major nectar sources in the state bloom for only a few short months in the spring and fall. Honey can be used in cooking instead of sugar. It is sweeter than sugar, so use half as much honey as sugar and cut back on the liquid in the recipe by onequarter. Honey attracts and retains water in baked goods, so cakes and cookies containing honey stay moist longer than those without honey. To find Kentucky honey, shop at local farmers’ markets or roadside stands. Most beekeepers in Kentucky are small producers. The Kentucky State Beekeeper Association can help make connections with local beekeepers. Lawrenceburg’s Otter Valley Farms honey is a favorite of mine, and my brother-in-law Stewart knows the family that collects the honey. Nick and Bev Nickels of Fayette County own the Kentucky Honey Company. Their honey is a thirteen-time winner at the Kentucky State Fair. The Midway Honey Company sells its honey at Weisenberger Mill and the Great Harvest Bread Company in Lexington. In Burlington, Katelyn’s Honey on East Bend Road packages and sells honey across Northern Kentucky.

Late-Summer Alfresco Dining If the weather cooperates, a late-evening meal eaten outside on the patio or deck is an extraordinary way to end a hot summer day, and fresh air makes the food taste even better. In the summer, when the days are longer, we eat dinner later, then sit and watch the sun drop below the horizon, signaling the end of another day.

menu Moist Grilled Chicken Breasts Fresh Basil Beans Watermelon and Cucumber Salad Cornbread and Tomato Salad Peach Blueberry Pecan Crisp Kentucky Wine Cooler Slush

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Moist Grilled Chicken Breasts makes 6 servings

It’s not uncommon for chicken breasts to come off the grill dry, mealy, and not much fun to eat. My secret to a moist grilled chicken breast is at least an

6 boneless, skinless chicken breast halves (about 2 pounds) ¼ cup olive oil 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice 2 cloves garlic, minced 2 teaspoons fresh thyme leaves or ¾ teaspoon dried 1 teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

hour-long soak in a salty marinade and careful attention to cooking time. The marinade is mixed from fresh ingredients and is a bit like brining. When grilling, avoid the temptation to move the chicken around. Unless the fire flares up (which it shouldn’t, if the marinade is drained), just leave the chicken alone and let it cook.

Place the chicken in a single layer in a glass baking dish or a gallon-size zip-top freezer bag. Mix together the olive oil, lemon juice, garlic, thyme, salt, and pepper. Pour the marinade over the chicken, and turn the breasts several times to coat with the marinade. Cover the dish, or zip up the bag, and refrigerate for at least 1 hour or up to 4 hours. Preheat the grill to medium high. Remove the chicken from the marinade and let the excess drip off. Grill the chicken for 5 minutes on the first side. Turn it over and continue cooking about 4 more minutes. Remove to a clean platter, cover with foil, and let rest for 10 minutes before serving. The final temperature after resting should be 165°F.

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Fresh Basil Beans makes about 4 servings

Some might say these green beans are too bright and too crisp, but that’s the way I like them. The beans can

1 pound fresh green or yellow beans 2 tablespoons olive oil 2 cloves garlic, minced 2 tablespoons fresh chopped basil ¼ teaspoon salt 1 large pinch crushed red pepper flakes

be precooked up to a day ahead of time. They are then warmed and seasoned just before serving to keep the bright green color and crisp texture. For best results, select thin, stringless green or yellow beans.

Bring a large pot of water to a rolling boil. Drop in the beans and cook for about 5 minutes, until bright and crisp. The actual cooking time depends on the thickness and maturity of the bean. Drain and immediately plunge the beans in ice water. Drain again, and keep the beans cool or refrigerated. To reheat the beans, heat the olive oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the beans, toss, and cook until warm. Add the garlic, basil, salt, and red pepper flakes, stirring to cook the garlic and coat the beans.

variations Gremolata Beans: Substitute ¼ cup chopped fresh parsley and 1 tablespoon fresh lemon zest for the basil. Lemon Parmesan Beans: Substitute 1 tablespoon lemon zest and juice of ½ lemon for the basil. Stir in ¼ cup shredded Parmesan or Romano just before serving. Sesame Ginger Beans: Substitute 1 teaspoon minced fresh ginger, 1 tablespoon reduced-sodium soy sauce or tamari, 1 tablespoon dark sesame seed oil, juice of 1 lime, and 1 teaspoon sesame seeds for the olive oil, garlic, basil, and salt.

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How to Precook (Blanch) Green Beans and Other Vegetables Green beans are a Kentucky favorite, on this we agree. What we might disagree on is how long to cook green beans. Personally, I like a bright-green bean with firm texture and a bit of a bite. Others prefer to cook beans slowly and for a long time on the back of the stove, perhaps with a bit of fatback thrown into the pot. To precook (blanch) green vegetables, first bring a large pot of water to a boil. Add about 1 teaspoon salt to the boiling water, drop in the vegetables, stir, and boil for about 5 minutes, or until the beans are bright green but still crisp. Drain and immediately stop the cooking process, either by dropping the vegetables in a bowl of ice water or rinsing with cold water.

Watermelon and Cucumber Salad makes about 12 servings

This dish is an unusual but refreshing combination of garden-fresh produce, Feta cheese, and walnuts.

4 cups chopped watermelon pieces 2 cups chopped tomato 2 cups chopped cucumber ½ cup crumbled Feta ¼ cup chopped walnuts, toasted 2 tablespoons olive oil ¼ teaspoon kosher salt ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper Place the watermelon, tomato, cucumber, Feta, and walnuts in a bowl. Toss with olive oil, salt, and pepper. Serve chilled.

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Cornbread and Tomato Salad makes about 12 servings

This recipe was inspired by a salad my sister Anne loves from the Ketch restaurant in Lexington. It makes good use of leftover cornbread, or bake it fresh— one batch of Buttermilk Cornbread (page 293).

salad 8 cups crumbled cornbread 1 pint grape or cherry tomatoes, quartered 1 ounce basil, thinly sliced (about 1 cup) 1 cup frozen green peas, optional 1 cup fresh corn kernels (from 2 ears of corn) 1 cup crumbled crisp bacon (about 8 slices cooked) 6 green onions, white and small amount of green parts, thinly sliced ¾ cup shredded Parmesan

dressing 1 cup mayonnaise ½ cup sour cream 2 cloves garlic, chopped 2 tablespoons honey ½ teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper In a large bowl, combine the cornbread, tomatoes, basil, peas, corn, bacon, green onion, and Parmesan. For the dressing, whisk together the mayonnaise, sour cream, garlic, honey, salt, and pepper. Stir the dressing into the cornbread mixture. Keep refrigerated until served.

Ripening Peaches The sweetest, juiciest peaches are allowed to ripen on the tree as long as possible. If they’re picked too early, underripe peaches will get softer, but they won’t get any sweeter. To soften an underripe peach, store it in a brown paper bag for a few days; then refrigerate until ready to use.

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Peach Blueberry Pecan Crisp makes 8 to 10 servings

Top with a dollop of Sour Cream Whipped Cream (page 242).

½ cup (1 stick) butter 6 cups sliced peaches (about 2 pounds) 2 cups blueberries (1 pint) Juice of 1 lemon ¼ cup sugar 1½ cups old-fashioned oats ½ cup unbleached all-purpose flour ½ cup light brown sugar 1½ teaspoons cinnamon 1 cup chopped pecans Preheat the oven to 350°F. Place the butter in the freezer to chill. Spray a 13×9×2-inch baking dish with nonstick cooking spray. In a bowl, toss the peaches, blueberries, lemon juice, and sugar. Spoon into the prepared baking dish. In another bowl, combine the oats, flour, sugar, and cinnamon. Using the large holes of a box grater, grate the butter into the oat-flour mixture. Mix gently with your fingers to combine. Stir in the pecans. Sprinkle the topping over the fruit. Bake for about 40 to 45 minutes, or until the fruit is bubbly and the topping is browned. Serve warm or at room temperature.

variation: Apple Pear Pecan Crisp Substitute 6 cups sliced apples and 2 cups sliced pears for the peaches and blueberries.

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Kentucky Wine Cooler Slush makes 2 servings

Wineries are springing up all over Kentucky. Scenic Elk Creek Winery outside

1 cup dry Kentucky white wine 1 cup ginger ale Juice of 1 lime 2 tablespoons sugar 2 cups ice cubes

Owenton makes crisp white wines such as Vidal Blanc, which is ideal for a homemade

Place all the ingredients in a blender and blend on high for 1 minute. Serve in a chilled glass.

wine cooler. Visit the Kentucky Vineyard Society’s website to search for a vineyard or winery in a specific area.

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Garden Harvest Produce from the garden is abundant at this time of year. Farmers’ markets and personal gardens are bursting with produce. In addition to enjoying this fresh bounty, now is the time to preserve food to enjoy during the cold wintry months.

Chicken Sausage with Squash and Fresh Herbs makes 4 servings

In addition to squash, other summer vegetables such as red bell peppers, eggplant, or tomatoes can be added.

½ pound fresh chicken or Italian sausage, cut into 2-inch chunks 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 medium red onion, cut into 1-inch chunks 1½ pounds mixed summer squash, cut into 1-inch chunks ¼ teaspoon salt ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper ½ cup pitted kalamata olives, halved ¼ cup capers Juice of ½ lemon ½ cup chopped fresh parsley, basil, or thyme, or a combination In a large skillet over medium-high heat, cook the sausage chunks until browned and fully cooked. Remove to a plate and keep warm. In the same skillet, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the onion and cook until golden, about 10 minutes. Add the squash and cook until just tender, about 8 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Toss the sausage, olives, capers, and lemon juice with the squash and heat to warm. Just before serving, stir in the herbs.

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Corn: The Honorable Kentucky Kernel Like most pantries, mine houses a wide variety of ingredients. Corn is represented in several forms, and I cook with corn on a regular basis. On occasion, I stove-pop a batch of popcorn to feed snack-starved children. Then I dig into a bag of stone-ground cornmeal to mix a thick batter for cornbread. Our Thanksgiving tradition includes a deep dish of corn pudding, while Christmas cries out for baked cheese grits. On Derby Day it’s safe to assume a cold mint julep isn’t a long shot, using Kentucky bourbon distilled from corn mash. The pioneers who settled Kentucky depended on corn. It was a year-round source of food. It grew on the hillsides and had a short growing cycle, compared with wheat and barley. Practically anyone could bury a row of dried corn in the spring soil, and about ninety days later, in the heat of the summer, the tall stalks would be fully mature—waving their long ears, daring anyone to pick, cook, and eat the milky kernels buried inside the snug green shucks. When not consumed fresh, corn was dried and ground or soaked whole in lye to make hominy; the hominy was then dried and ground for grits. Corn also was, and still is, the choice grain for Kentucky bourbon. The mash for moonshine’s genteel sister must contain at least 51 percent corn and must be aged in charred oak barrels for at least a year. I am fortunate to own a fine collection of Kentucky cookbooks—some I bought, some were given to me as gifts, and a sizable portion I inherited from my father. For many years, Dad collected a variety of books written by Kentucky authors such as Jesse Stuart, John Fox Jr., Thomas Clark, Harlan Hubbard, and Wendell Berry. Several years before his death, he also started collecting Kentucky cookbooks, which is baffling, because Dad seldom set foot in the kitchen except to rummage around for a cold drink, a salty snack, or a late-night cookie. I love to browse through these books, reading recipes and stories about potluck dinners, church functions, grand Derby parties, and smoky barbecues. Needless to say, many of the Kentucky recipes use corn—fresh, frozen, dried, ground, treated with alkali, or distilled. Thanks to my well-stocked pantry, I’m able to put down the book, turn to the kitchen, and prepare a meal, a snack, or a drink with Kentucky’s most honorable kernel. To buy traditional Kentucky cornmeal, visit Salamander Springs Farm near Berea. They sell whole-grain cornmeal ground from colorful, organically grown Kentucky corn. Weisenberger Mill, located in Midway on the South Elkhorn Creek, produces and sells highquality yellow and white cornmeal, wheat flour, grains, bran, and baking mixes. 212  the kentucky fresh cookbook

Grill-Roasted Corn on the Cob makes 6 servings

Breaking the shucked ears of corn in half makes them more manageable for grill-

6 ears fresh corn on the cob 1 tablespoon olive oil 2 cloves garlic, chopped 1 teaspoon kosher salt 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

ing and eating.

Prepare a hot charcoal fire, spreading the coals evenly for direct-heat cooking, or preheat a gas grill to medium high. Shuck the corn and wipe off all the corn silk. Break the ears of corn in half. In a large bowl, toss the corn with the olive oil, garlic, salt, and pepper. To cook, arrange the corn on the grill rack over the hottest part of the fire and grill, rotating the ears a few times, for about 6 minutes, or until the corn is softened, blistered, and golden brown.

Fresh Peach Salsa makes about 4 cups

This peach salsa embodies simplicity and sweet freshness. Serve it with grilled chicken, grilled pork, tortilla chips, or pita chips.

6 fresh peaches, peeled and finely diced (about 3 cups) 1 jalapeno pepper, seeded and finely chopped ½ small red onion, finely chopped (about ¼ cup) 1 red bell pepper, seeded and diced 2 green onions, thinly sliced Juice of 1 lime (about 1 tablespoon) Pinch of kosher salt Mix together the peaches, jalapeno, red onion, red pepper, green onion, and lime juice. Season to taste with salt and add more lime juice if desired.

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Smoky Tomato Salsa makes about 5 cups

Cilantro, a cool-weather herb, goes well with tomatoes, but the two are rarely, if ever, harvested from the garden at the same time. In the heat of the summer, cilantro bolts, or goes to seed, while tomatoes love the hot summer sun. Use fresh pars-

3 medium tomatoes, seeded and quartered 2 green onions, chopped 1 red bell pepper, seeded and quartered 2 cloves garlic, chopped ¼ cup chopped cilantro, parsley, or basil ¼ cup olive oil 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar 1 tablespoon smoked paprika 1 teaspoon salt ¾ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

ley or basil when cilantro is not available. This salsa pairs well with all the usual suspects— grilled poultry or meat, tortilla or pita chips, and as a topping for grilled French bread. If smoked paprika isn’t available, substitute sweet paprika,

Place the tomatoes, green onion, bell pepper, garlic, and your herb of choice in a food processor or blender. Pulse to blend and chop the ingredients. Pour the vegetable mixture into a large bowl. Mix in the olive oil, vinegar, paprika, salt, and pepper. Cover and refrigerate for at least an hour to blend the flavors.

but the smoky flavor will be compromised.

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Chunky Ratatouille makes about 12 servings

Serve hot, warm, or cold with a drizzle of olive oil.

¼ cup olive oil, divided 1 large onion, diced (about 2 cups) 8 ounces mushrooms, cleaned and quartered, optional 3 zucchini, cut into chunks 1 small eggplant, diced ¾ teaspoon salt, divided 3 tomatoes, cored and diced 3 cloves garlic, chopped 3 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves or 1 tablespoon dried 1 bay leaf ¾ cup chopped fresh basil ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper In a Dutch oven, heat 2 tablespoons oil over medium-high heat. Add the onion and cook about 8 minutes, until softened and golden. Stir in the mushrooms and zucchini and cook until the mushrooms release their juice and the zucchini is softened, about 5 minutes. Stir in the eggplant and ¼ teaspoon salt. Cook and stir until the eggplant is softened, about 5 minutes. Add the tomatoes, garlic, thyme, and bay leaf. Bring to a simmer and cook for 30 minutes, until the vegetables are cooked and the juices are slightly thickened. Stir in the basil and season with the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil, ½ teaspoon salt, and black pepper.

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Fresh Corn and Lima Bean Salad makes about 8 servings

This cold side dish is inspired by succotash—the corn and lima bean dish traditional in the South and New England. This recipe adds garden-ripe tomatoes and fresh basil to brighten up the corn and lima beans. If desired, shelled cooked edamame (green soybeans) can be substituted for the lima beans.

12 ounces shelled lima beans (about 2 cups), cooked until tender 1½ cups fresh or frozen corn kernels (about 3 ears) ½ medium red onion, finely diced (about ½ cup) 1 red bell pepper, seeded and chopped 2 medium tomatoes, cored, seeds removed, and chopped (about 2 cups) ¼ cup sliced fresh basil 1 clove garlic, minced 2 tablespoons fresh chopped thyme 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar ¼ cup olive oil ½ teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper In a bowl, mix together the lima beans, corn, red onion, red pepper, tomatoes, basil, garlic, and thyme. Stir in the vinegar, oil, salt, and pepper. Serve at room temperature, but store refrigerated.

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Basil Walnut Pesto makes about 2 cups

Pesto has a tendency to darken if it’s not stored correctly. The trick to maintaining a bright green color is to make a paste of cheese, oil, and nuts and

2 cloves garlic, crushed ½ cup grated Parmesan ¼ cup walnuts ¾ cup olive oil ¼ teaspoon salt 4 cups fresh basil leaves (about 4 ounces fresh basil)

then add the basil to the paste. Refrigerate the pesto with a thin layer of olive oil on top to prevent oxidation, or darkening, of the basil. The pesto can be thinned, if necessary, by stirring in additional olive oil. Pesto can be mixed with mayonnaise or sour cream to make a dip, served straight up on top of scrambled eggs, added to mayonnaise to make a dressing for potato salad, served on sliced tomatoes,

Place the garlic, Parmesan, walnuts, oil, and salt in a food processor with the metal blade or in a blender. Pulse to form a thick paste. Scrape down the sides of the bowl and pulse again for a few more seconds. Add all the basil and process until it’s finely chopped and well incorporated into the paste. Serve as desired.   To store pesto, place it in a container, pour a thin layer of olive oil over the surface, cover, and refrigerate for up to 1 week. For longer storage, freeze small portions of pesto in freezer-safe containers.

or mixed with hot pasta.

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Bread and Butter Freezer Pickles makes about 8 cups

Extend the flavor of cucumbers into the fall or winter with these sweet, crisp pickles. Garden-fresh cucumbers aren’t waxed, so I don’t worry about peeling them.

8 medium-sized cucumbers 1 medium red onion 2 tablespoons salt 8 cups ice cubes 4 cups sugar 2 cups apple cider vinegar 1 teaspoon mustard seed 1 teaspoon celery seed ½ teaspoon turmeric Have ready four 2-cup freezer-safe containers. Thoroughly wash the cucumbers. With a food processor or mandolin, thinly slice the cucumbers and red onion. Layer in a large bowl, alternating layers of cucumber and onion with layers of salt and ice. Let sit for 2 hours.   Meanwhile, in a saucepan, heat the sugar, vinegar, mustard seed, celery seed, and turmeric. Stir to dissolve the sugar. Set aside. After 2 hours, drain the cucumbers and remove any stray chunks of ice. Pour the sugarvinegar solution over the cucumbers and stir. Use tongs to divide the cucumbers among the storage containers. Pour in any extra juice, leaving ½ inch of space at the top of the container. Cover tightly and freeze.

Tomatoes for Canning When shopping at a farmers’ market, ask to buy a box of “canners”—the tomatoes that aren’t as pretty as the red shiny beauties on display. Although they may have a few cracks or bad spots, these tomatoes cook beautifully and are less expensive.

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Margaret’s Chili Sauce (Mamaw’s Ketchup) makes 5 pints

This recipe is ideal when the garden produces an abundance of tomatoes and bell peppers. Every year my grandmother canned a batch of this chili sauce, which my sisters and I called “Mamaw’s Ketchup.” A large spoonful on cooked white or pinto beans, meat-

4½ to 5 pounds tomatoes, finely chopped (12 cups chopped) 1½ cups finely chopped onion 3 red or green bell peppers, seeded and finely chopped 3 cups finely chopped celery 2⁄3 cup light brown sugar 1 tablespoon celery salt 2 teaspoons cinnamon 2 teaspoons dry mustard ½ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg 2 tablespoons salt 1 cup apple cider vinegar

loaf, or scrambled eggs is like summertime in a jar. My mother remembers a food chopper hooked to the edge of the counter to chop the tomatoes and vegetables while juice dripped all over the floor. There’s nothing juicer than a gardenripe tomato.

In a large Dutch oven, mix all the ingredients except the apple cider vinegar. Bring to a boil, reduce to a simmer, and cook for 1½ hours. Stir in the vinegar and simmer for 45 minutes longer, stirring frequently. Pour the hot tomato mixture into sterilized pint jars. Put on the lids and rings. Process in a boiling water canner for 15 minutes (adjust the time for altitudes above 1,000 feet). Carefully remove the jars and place them on a towel to cool, leaving at least 1 inch of space between the jars. Let the jars cool for 12 to 24 hours. The lids should pop during the cooling process, indicating a tight seal. Do not push down on the center of the flat metal lid until the jar is completely cooled. Put any unsealed jars in the refrigerator, and use those first. Label the sealed jars and store them in the pantry.

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Brown-Bag Lunches Just when I think the long days of summer might last forever, the mail arrives with calendars for the upcoming school year. Here in Kentucky, children and college students return to school anywhere from mid-August to after Labor Day. Although it’s hard to stop the summertime fun and shop for school clothes and supplies, the time has come to get back to the school-day routine. Our one consolation is that summer doesn’t officially end until around September 21. Take advantage of the last blast of summer to attend weekend fairs and festivals, spend evenings at the pool, dine on the patio, go hiking and fishing, attend outdoor concerts, and have late-season picnics. And enjoy the following recipes for packing a meal on the go.

Dried Cherry and Pecan Chicken Salad makes about 6 cups

Fresh chicken salad is portable and one of life’s simple pleasures. Chicken salad filled with nuts, fruit, and celery is refreshing. (To cook a whole fresh chicken, see page 26.) This recipe is also good with chopped cooked

4 cups chopped cooked chicken 1 cup chopped celery 1 cup pecan pieces 1 cup dried cherries ¼ cup fresh chopped chives, parsley, or tarragon ½ cup mayonnaise ¼ cup sour cream Juice of 1 lemon ¼ teaspoon salt ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

turkey.

In a bowl, combine the chicken, celery, pecans, cherries, and herb of choice. Stir in the mayonnaise, sour cream, lemon juice, salt, and pepper. Refrigerate and serve chilled.

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Cream Cheese Olive Nut Spread makes about 2 cups

One 8-ounce package Neufchâtel or cream cheese, softened

I was reminded of the simplic-

13

ity of olive nut spread when my aunt Mary died. A family friend brought olive nut finger sand-

⁄ cup mayonnaise 1 cup drained pimiento-stuffed green olives ½ cup chopped pecans Dash hot red pepper sauce

wiches to the funeral home for us to eat between visits. Based on the stories I’ve heard, my grandmother must have made a lot of this spread. It was economical and meatless, making an ideal filling for sandwiches

Place all the ingredients in a food processor with the metal blade or in a blender. Mix well to chop the pecans and olives. Scrape the sides and mix for a few more seconds. Use as a sandwich filling or serve with thick crackers. Store covered in the refrigerator.

on meatless Fridays during Lent, when no self-respecting Catholic mother in the 1940s would send her child to school with a bologna sandwich.

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Bacon Benedictine Sandwich makes 4 sandwiches

Cucumber onion spread, also known as Benedictine, was made famous by Jenny Benedict, a Louisville caterer. My favorite way to

One 8-ounce package Neufchâtel or cream cheese 1 cup grated peeled cucumber, drained 2 green onions, finely chopped ¼ teaspoon hot red pepper sauce 8 slices whole-grain bread 8 slices bacon, cooked crisp ½ cup broccoli or alfalfa sprouts

eat this spread is on dense whole-grain bread with crisp bacon and sprouts. Don’t forget to drain the cucumber, or the Benedictine will be too thin.

In a food processor with the metal blade or with an electric mixer, blend the cream cheese, cucumber, green onion, and hot red pepper sauce until creamy. Arrange 4 slices of bread on the counter. Spread ¼ cup cucumber spread on each slice of bread. Top with 2 bacon slices and a large pinch of sprouts. Top with the remaining bread slices. Cut the sandwiches into rectangles or triangles and wrap in wax paper. Store refrigerated.

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One-Pan Chocolate Chip Pecan Blondies makes one 13×9×2-inch pan

This sister of One-Pan Pecan Brownies (page 94) makes a portable dessert. Transport an entire pan to a party, or cut into bars for a sack lunch.

¾ cup (1½ sticks) butter 1½ cups packed light brown sugar 2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour 1 teaspoon baking powder ¼ teaspoon baking soda ½ teaspoon salt 2 large eggs 2 tablespoons milk 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract 1 cup semisweet mini chocolate chips 1 cup chopped pecans 1 cup flaked coconut, optional Preheat the oven to 350°F. Spray a 13×9×2-inch baking pan with nonstick cooking spray. In a saucepan, melt the butter over very low heat. Remove the pan from the heat and whisk in the brown sugar until well combined and the sugar dissolves. Let it cool to the touch. In a bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt. Stir the eggs, milk, and vanilla into the cooled butter mixture until well blended. With a silicone spatula, fold in the flour mixture. Stir in the chocolate chips, nuts, and coconut. Spread the batter in the prepared pan. Bake for 30 to 35 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean. Be sure not to overbake. Cool on a rack.

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September One feels that he stands at the grand entrance to some grand region, where all is new and changing. The time of growing is past, now is the flowering and the harvest. —harlan hubbard, payne hollow journal

If I could select the month to begin the new year, I would choose September. After the gift-giving frenzy of the holidays, January beats me into submission. I feel so stuffed with eggnog and champagne that I often drag my feet before I’m able to face the plans, and the resolutions, a new year brings. Regardless of how I feel, January comes anyway. I feel differently about September. It’s a time of beginnings. It washes in just as the heat of summer is winding down and the carefree days of summer are coming to a close. As summer ends, the door closes on kids around the house; casual, late meals on the patio; and, if I’m lucky, time spent by a body of water. As the lazier days of summer leave, I’m ready for the structure the school day imparts. To me, September is an ideal month for starting anew, setting goals, and making resolutions. In the fall, I’m ready to step into the new season. It’s time for a change in myself and a change in the earth. Labor Day marks the unofficial end of summer, but the season doesn’t end for real until around September 21. During this last month of bursting gardens, farmers’ markets continue to flourish with garden-fresh produce. Harvesting and preserving food for the winter kept Kentucky

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pioneers busy during this month. Sorghum (page 245) is harvested, and Kentucky freshwater shrimp is ready for harvesting as well. Kentucky celebrates its German heritage with numerous Oktoberfests throughout the region. Kentuckians also celebrate the kickoff of football season with tailgate gatherings in stadium parking lots at colleges, universities, and high schools across the state. Family suppers start to replace outdoor barbecues, and September returns us to the routine of the school year and preparations for the upcoming festivities of harvest, holidays, and home.

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Good Morning Food A moist coffee cake is one of the best recipes to bake and take to friends who are in need of nourishment after the birth of a baby, a death in the family, or a move to a new neighborhood. Coffee cake is also a welcome addition to a brunch menu. For a weekend camping trip, coffee cake is a portable food—easy to stow away until morning. These recipes are two of my favorites, and Big-Crumbs Crumb Cake is especially easy to mix together.

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Big-Crumbs Crumb Cake makes 1 cake

This cake, adapted from Martha Stewart, is all about the crumbs: a thin layer of vanilla-laced coffee cake smothered in buttery chunks of streusel goodness. For variety, add 1 cup

cake 1½ cups unbleached all-purpose flour ½ cup granulated sugar 1 tablespoon baking powder ¾ teaspoon salt 1 large egg ½ cup milk ¼ cup canola oil 2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract

chopped pecans, walnuts, or shredded coconut to the

crumbs

crumbs. To incorporate

2½ cups unbleached all-purpose flour 1 cup light brown sugar 2 teaspoons cinnamon ¾ cups (1½ sticks) butter, melted Powdered sugar, for garnish

fresh fruit, sprinkle 1 pint fresh blueberries on top of the crumbs before baking.

Preheat the oven to 325°F. Spray a 13×9×2-inch cake pan with nonstick cooking spray with flour. For the cake, whisk the flour, granulated sugar, baking powder, and salt in a large bowl. In another bowl, beat together the egg, milk, oil, and vanilla. Mix the dry ingredients into the wet ingredients. Drop the batter in large spoonfuls in at least 6 different spots in the cake pan. Use a small offset spatula or butter knife to spread the batter in the pan. The batter layer is supposed to be thin. Set aside. For the crumbs, whisk together the flour, brown sugar, and cinnamon in a large bowl. Pour the melted butter over the flour mixture, and stir until large crumbs form. Sprinkle the crumbs evenly over the batter in the pan. Bake for 30 to 35 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted in the center of the cake (not the crumbs) comes out clean. Cool on a wire rack. Sprinkle generously with powdered sugar before cutting.

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Delivering Food to a Friend The gift of a coffee cake, a homemade meal, soup, or cookies to a new neighbor, a grieving family, or a sick friend or relative brings nourishment to those in need. Whether on the giving or receiving end, nothing says “I care” more than the gift of food. Here are a few tips I’ve collected over the years: • Pasta dishes and desserts are favorite choices, but families often get bombarded with these. Other nourishing ideas include soups, chili, or roasted pork or chicken. • A layered salad or a mixed salad such as pasta salad, potato salad, fruit salad, or broccoli salad is easier to serve than a tossed salad with dressing on the side. • Offer single-size portions of soup, stew, or chili for freezing. Label each container with the name of the food, the date prepared, and your name. Attach instructions for any additional preparation, such as how long to heat the food and at what oven temperature. If appropriate, consider including the recipe with the dish. • If possible, avoid calling to ask what the family needs. Instead, find out from other family members or neighbors. In particular, ask about any food intolerances or allergies. • Use disposable containers. This eliminates the need for the recipients to keep track of containers that need to be returned. If a nondisposable container is necessary, label the dish with your name and phone number and make plans to return to pick it up yourself. • Include serving utensils—large spoons, a knife to cut a cake, a small spatula to serve the cake, or whatever else might be needed—as well as disposable plates, forks, spoons, and knives. • For an organized meal effort involving several cooks, consider using an online calendar such as Care Calendar. This allows people to list what they are cooking to avoid duplication and provides a map to the home for delivery. • When providing meals to a family for an extended period, a cooler system on the porch is effective—one cooler for hot food and one for cold food. The food can be delivered at any time without disturbing the family. • Arrange a time to deliver the meal, and be on time. Call if plans change. • Consider taking food to the funeral home for the family to eat during visiting hours. Most funeral homes have a family room where the food can be left. A cooler of soft drinks, bottled waters, or other beverages might be appreciated as well. • Check in on the bereaved or ill after time passes. No one likes to feel forgotten, and a phone call is a way to reconnect. • Offer to babysit or house sit during a funeral or when someone is in the hospital. september  229

Sour Cream Coffee Cake makes 1 cake

My first experience with sour cream coffee cake was at Zingerman’s in Ann Arbor, Michigan. This recipe, adapted from one

streusel ¾ cup packed light brown sugar ½ cup unbleached all-purpose flour 2 teaspoons cinnamon ¼ teaspoon salt 3 tablespoons butter, melted ¾ cup chopped pecans or walnuts, toasted

in Penzey’s spice catalog, can also be baked in a

cake

13×9×2-inch pan for 35 to

2½ cups cake flour 2 teaspoons baking powder ½ teaspoon baking soda ½ teaspoon salt ¾ cup (1½ sticks) butter 1½ cups granulated sugar 2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract 3 large eggs 1 egg yolk 1¼ cups sour cream

40 minutes.

glaze ½ cup powdered sugar 1 to 2 tablespoons heavy cream, half-and-half, or milk Preheat the oven to 350°F. Spray a 10-inch Bundt or tube pan with nonstick baking spray with flour. For the streusel, place the brown sugar, flour, cinnamon, salt, and melted butter in a bowl. Use your fingers to press the ingredients together to form clumps. Mix in the nuts and set aside. For the cake, whisk together the cake flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt. With an electric mixer, cream the butter and granulated sugar together for at least 5 minutes, until light and fluffy. Mix in the vanilla.

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Add the eggs and egg yolk one at a time until well blended. Stir in the sour cream and blend well. Add the flour mixture, mixing on low until just blended. Spoon one-third of the batter into the prepared pan, and spread it. Top with half the streusel. Spoon on another one-third of the batter and spread gently. Top with the remaining streusel. Spread the remaining batter on top of the streusel. Bake for about 55 to 60 minutes, or until a thin knife inserted in the cake comes out clean. Cool in the pan for 15 minutes, then turn the cake out of the pan and cool completely. Meanwhile, in a measuring cup with a spout, mix together the powdered sugar and enough cream or milk to make a thick glaze. Pour the glaze over the cake, letting it run down the edges in thick dribbles.

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The Power of Yes Anyone who spends time around children knows how frequently closed-ended questions are hurled about. At times I grow weary of these questions. I can pretend I don’t hear, but several months ago I embarked on an experiment: for the next several days, I’d say yes to as many closed-ended questions as I possibly could (barring any serious safety issues). No more than 12 hours after I started, and right before bedtime, my freshly showered young son asked if he could eat the last piece of ice cream cake stowed in the freezer. Before I knew it, I was saying yes, knowing full well it was too late to be eating cake and thus earning myself a ticket to the Bad Parent Club. After the cake incident, strange things started to happen. One sunny afternoon, as if I had nothing better to do, I found myself all alone at the animal shelter adopting a shaggy dog. Then I heard myself say yes (and murmur a silent prayer) when my “tween-age” son asked to play organized youth football. And I said yes when my daughter asked if she could read in my bed (well, not only read but also stow away under every cover, prop up with every pillow, and then fall asleep). Little did I know, sitting in the kitchen sharing the last piece of cake with my son, the effect of the simple word yes. Until I said yes to adopting a dog, I wasn’t fully aware of how my children needed her to run around the yard with and lie with on the family room floor. I couldn’t see how my adolescent son needed the camaraderie of his sweaty, tacklehappy friends a bit more than he needed me. I wasn’t aware that for a young girl, the comfort of a cozy bed (albeit not hers) and a good book made her feel that all was right with the world. This common word has given me permission to step outside my limited view of how the world should run and surrender myself to what someone else wants—or, better yet, what someone else needs—all while unleashing an immense feeling of creativity and peace. Saying yes flipped another switch, turning on the proverbial lightbulb about my relationship to food and cooking. We never need run from the privilege of cooking or the ability to do so. Cooking at home is a way to say yes to slowing down the ticking clock by which the world runs. Every time we shop for food and roll out the dough to feed others, we are saying yes to caring for someone else in a delicious way. And I now know something more powerful than I did a few months ago: there’s great benefit to saying yes to, “Are you cooking dinner?” and the many other questions life hurls our way. 232  the kentucky fresh cookbook

Freshwater Shrimp Shopping Tips When shopping at a shrimp farm, be prepared to bring home live head-on shrimp. These guys look nothing like the headless shrimp sold at supermarkets or fish markets. They resemble small lobsters and can be a bit intimidating. Since they’re sold alive, you’ll have to bring a cooler and some ice. The ice calms the shrimp but keeps them alive until they can be cleaned. If the shrimp die with their heads on, before they are cooked, they must be discarded to avoid exposure to toxins released when they die. One pound of head-on prawns yields about 8 ounces of shrimp “tail” meat, so plan on buying 2 pounds at the farm to yield 1 pound of usable meat. And bring cash to make the purchase. Most shrimp farms don’t accept checks or credit cards.

Kentucky Freshwater Shrimp Some say prawns and some say shrimp, but nomenclature aside, it’s safe to say that Kentucky supports a thriving aquaculture economy. In 1990 Kentucky State University began researching the culture of freshwater shrimp. As a result of the shift from tobacco growing to other forms of agriculture, the number of aquaculture farms, specifically those raising freshwater shrimp, has boomed. In late May or early June, ponds are stocked with juvenile shrimp. The shrimp grow over the summer and are harvested at the end of September, before the nighttime temperatures drop. If the harvest is delayed by even a few days and the water temperature drops below 60°F, the entire shrimp population can be lost. In Northern Kentucky, the Bluegrass Shrimp and Fish Company is about a twentyfive-minute drive from my back door. Nestled in the southern part of Kenton County, this farm sells freshwater shrimp to anyone willing to make the drive. One muggy September afternoon I loaded up the car and we made the trek to the shrimp farm. The shrimp for sale are kept in a holding pool, and we watched as the owner sifted through the pool with a long-handled net to fish out our shrimp, which were then placed in a plastic bag and stored in an ice-filled cooler for the trip home. When we arrived home, my older son was eager to clean the shrimp, so he donned a pair of heavy kitchen gloves and proceeded to the backyard to twist the heads off the

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shrimp. The shrimp can be boiled with their heads on, crawfish style, if desired, making this step unnecessary. After the shrimp are cleaned, they should be rinsed in cool water and stored on ice or frozen. Kentucky freshwater shrimp can then be prepared like any other store-bought shrimp. Shrimp imported from China may not be the best choice due to low levels of contamination with antibiotics, colorings, and preservatives. This reinforces the preference for local or regional shrimp. One alternative to Kentucky freshwater shrimp or other farmed shrimp is “Certified Wild American Shrimp” harvested by American shrimp boats from the waters of the South Atlantic and Gulf of Mexico. Several retail shrimp brands carry the Certified Wild American Shrimp label. For a local event related to seafood, visit the Great Inland Seafood Festival in Newport. Traditionally held in August along the banks of the Ohio River, this festival features premium seafood dishes from restaurants around Northern Kentucky and the Greater Cincinnati area, along with music and riverboat cruises.

Shrimp by the Pound The number associated with the size of headless shrimp is related to the quantity of shrimp per pound. For example, jumbo or U-12 shrimp have fewer than 12 shrimp to the pound, and extra-large or 16/20 shrimp have 16 to 20 shrimp per pound.

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Shrimp and Creamy Grits makes 4 servings

What better way to eat Kentucky freshwater shrimp than this classic low-country recipe: spicy shrimp over creamy

grits 4 cups water ½ teaspoon salt 2 tablespoons butter, divided 1 cup stone-ground grits ½ cup heavy cream Small pinch cayenne pepper, optional

grits? Alternatively, serve the grits with a scoop of

shrimp

White Cheddar Pimiento

One 4-ounce Italian sausage link, cut into ¼-inch-thick slices 24 medium (20- to 24-count) shrimp, peeled and deveined 1 tablespoon olive oil 4 cloves garlic, chopped 8 green onions, thinly sliced 1½ cups fresh, or one 15-ounce can, diced tomatoes ¾ teaspoon Spicy Seasoning Mix (page 93) ¼ cup water

Cheese (page 102), Smoky Black Beans with Sweet Potatoes (page 56), or Skillet Red Beans (page 58) on top.

For the grits, in a saucepan, bring the water, salt, and 1 tablespoon butter to a boil. Whisk in the grits, cover, and cook over low heat, stirring frequently, until tender and thick, about 25 minutes. The longer the grits are cooked, the creamier they get. Stir in the heavy cream, the remaining 1 tablespoon butter, and the cayenne pepper if desired. Remove from the heat, cover, and set aside. For the shrimp, in a large skillet, cook the sausage until golden brown. Transfer to a plate and set aside. Cook the shrimp in the skillet in batches, turning, until just cooked through, about 3 minutes. Set aside. Add the olive oil, garlic, and green onion to the skillet. Cook for 1 minute. Stir in the cooked sausage, tomatoes, Spicy Seasoning Mix, and water. Cook, stirring and scraping up any brown bits in the skillet, until heated through. Add the shrimp and serve over the hot grits.

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Peel-’n’-Eat Barbecue Shrimp makes 4 servings

My first professional job, at a Baltimore hospital, provided countless opportunities to relish the flavors, sights, and sounds of the Chesapeake Bay area. On the food front, Maryland’s claim to fame is blue crabs, sometimes called the

¼ cup olive oil 4 teaspoons Spicy Seasoning Mix (page 93) 4 cloves garlic, minced ¼ cup beer or dry white wine 2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice 1½ pounds large (16- to 20-count) shrimp 2 tablespoons butter, cut into slices

“candy of the Chesapeake.” While living in Baltimore, I often spent hot summer evenings with my sister Kaye and her husband Kevin. We would get carry-out steamed blue crabs from a local bar and grill, dump the crabs from the brown paper sack into a large pile on a newspaper-covered patio table, and then take wooden mallets to the crab shells, eating the pinkish-white meat with our fingers accompanied by corn on the cob, ice cold beer, and plenty of napkins. Eating blue crabs in this fashion is a labor of love— lots of work, but much reward.   Re-creating a blue crab meal on my Kentucky patio takes a bit of imagination. So when I long for finger-lickinggood seafood, I buy fresh jumbo shrimp in the shell and prepare this peel-andeat recipe. I complete the meal with summertime corn on the cob, a good loaf of bread to sop up the sauce, and chilled white wine or beer. For more or less spiciness, adjust the amount of cayenne pepper in the seasoning mix. Shrimp cooks quickly; when it turns pink and just starts to curl or form a loose C, it is only seconds from being fully cooked.

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In a large skillet, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the Spicy Seasoning Mix and garlic. Cook, stirring, for 1 minute. Stir in the beer or wine, Worcestershire sauce, and lemon juice. Add the shrimp and cook, stirring occasionally, for about 3 minutes, until they just begin to turn pink. Slowly swirl in the butter pieces and continue to stir until the shrimp are cooked through and the sauce is thickened, about 3 more minutes. Pour the shrimp onto a large platter or into individual bowls. Serve piping hot.

Oktoberfest In the nineteenth century, large numbers of German immigrants settled in the Covington area, where the rolling hillsides around the Ohio River reminded the immigrants of their homeland. After the city of Covington was laid out in 1815, German neighborhoods, parishes, schools, and business populated the city, with the Mainstrasse area serving as the primary business district. To this day, the Mainstrasse area hosts festivals and farmers’ markets and continues to be a thriving business district. At the turn of the twentieth century, Kentucky elected its first German American governor, William Goebel, who was assassinated the day before being sworn into office. Every year, Northern Kentuckians tip der hut to their German heritage by hosting a number of traditional Oktoberfests. Mainstrasse Village in Covington typically holds its Oktoberfest on the second weekend in September. The mix of German and international foods, music, and arts and crafts attracts thousands of people. In conjunction with its Hofbrau Haus, Newport celebrates in the Munich Oktoberfest style— large tents sponsored by German beer breweries with food, music, and, of course, beer in every tent. Across the river in downtown Cincinnati, Oktoberfest Zinzinnati is celebrated the third weekend in September. First held in 1976, this event has become North America’s largest Oktoberfest. It showcases the rich German heritage of Greater Cincinnati as well as German-style music and food—bratwurst, sauerkraut balls, sausages, potato pancakes, soft pretzels, German potato salad, cream puffs, strudel, and, of course, beer. Nearly half a million visitors attend Oktoberfest Zinzinnati. In locations to the south, Christ the King Parish in Lexington, my elementary school alma mater, gets in on the fun with an Oktoberfest held every September. This festival brings the spirit of German food and music to Central Kentucky, with German food, kids’ games, a beer garden, a wine garden, and live German music rounding out the weekend.

menu Oven-Roasted Sausage with Potatoes and Rosemary Red Cabbage Hot Slaw Herbed Beer Batter Bread Mini Black Forest Shortcakes

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Oven-Roasted Sausage with Potatoes and Rosemary makes 6 servings

Kroeger & Sons Meats in historic Findlay Market in Cincinnati sells close to forty varieties of handmade sausages with no binders, colorings, extenders, or artificial preservatives, including brats, andouille, mettwurst, biermetts,

1½ pounds fresh German or Italian sausage, cut into 2-inch chunks 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 large onion, cut into chunks 2 pounds small red- or yellow-skinned all-purpose potatoes, cut into wedges ½ teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper Dash cayenne pepper ½ cup dry white wine 4 large sprigs fresh rosemary or 1 teaspoon dried

linguisa, fresh chicken sausage, and six varieties of Italian sausage. Stone Cross Farm in Taylorsville carries an all-natural European sausage line that includes Polish sausage with Blue Moon Farm’s smoked garlic, German bratwurst and knockwurst, English

Preheat the oven to 350°F. In a large skillet, bring 2 inches of water to a boil. Add the sausage and boil for about 5 minutes, until firm. Meanwhile, in a Dutch oven, heat the oil over medium heat. Cook the onion until transparent, about 8 minutes. Add the potatoes and cook over high heat for 5 minutes. Add the sausage, salt, pepper, and cayenne pepper to the Dutch oven. Stir in the wine and rosemary. Cover and bake until the potatoes are done, about 1 hour.

bangers, and Spanish chorizo.

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Red Cabbage Hot Slaw makes 8 servings

Hot slaw is a favorite German-inspired recipe. I substitute red cabbage for traditional green and add a pinch of crushed red pepper flakes for a spicy twist.

8 strips bacon, thinly sliced ¼ cup canola oil 1 small sweet or red onion, thinly sliced ¼ cup sugar ½ cup apple cider vinegar ¼ teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes ½ teaspoon salt One 2-pound head red cabbage, very thinly shredded (about 8 cups) In a skillet, cook the bacon over medium-low heat until crisp. Drain on paper towels. Pour out all the bacon grease, add the canola oil, and heat over medium heat. Stir in the onion and cook until softened, about 5 minutes. Whisk in the sugar, vinegar, red pepper flakes, and salt. Bring to a gentle boil and whisk until well blended while scraping the browned bits off the bottom of the pan. Add the cabbage to the skillet and toss to coat with dressing. Cook for about 3 minutes, until the cabbage is hot and bright in color. Sprinkle with the cooked bacon and serve hot.

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Herbed Beer Batter Bread makes 1 loaf

“Dump and stir” savory breads are a quick addition to any meal. When made with a dark, rich stout or ale, this bread pairs well with soups, stews, or roast-

4 tablespoons (½ stick) unsalted butter, melted and divided, plus more to grease the loaf pan 3 cups unbleached all-purpose flour 1 tablespoon baking powder 3 tablespoons sugar 1 teaspoon dried dill weed or caraway seeds, divided 1 teaspoon salt One 12-ounce bottle stout or ale, at room temperature

ed meats and vegetables.

Preheat the oven to 375°F. Brush a 9×5×3-inch loaf pan with some of the butter. In a bowl, combine the flour, baking powder, sugar, ¾ teaspoon dill weed or caraway seeds, and salt. Add the beer and 2 tablespoons melted butter, stirring just until combined (the batter will be somewhat lumpy). Pour the batter into the prepared loaf pan and drizzle with the remaining 2 tablespoons melted butter. Sprinkle with the remaining ¼ teaspoon dill weed or caraway seeds. Bake for about 35 to 40 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean. Cool in the pan for 10 minutes, then turn out onto a wire rack to continue cooling. Serve warm or at room temperature.

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Mini Black Forest Shortcakes makes about 8 shortcakes

cherries

Sugared cherries taste

4 cups sour cherries, drained 2 tablespoons sugar

divine on these chocolate cream shortcakes,

shortcakes

which, with the addition of

1¼ cups unbleached all-purpose flour ½ cup unsweetened cocoa powder ½ cup sugar 1 tablespoon baking powder 1⁄8 teaspoon salt 1 cup heavy cream ½ teaspoon pure vanilla extract Sour Cream Whipped Cream (page 242)

whipped cream, resemble miniature black forest cakes. Make the shortcakes up to 1 day ahead and, after thoroughly cooling, store them in an airtight container. In the spring and early summer, substitute sliced strawberries or fresh raspberries for the cherries.

Stir together the cherries and sugar. Cover and let sit for at least 1 hour. For the shortcakes, preheat the oven to 400°F. Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper. In a bowl, whisk together the flour, cocoa powder, sugar, baking powder, and salt. In another medium bowl, beat the heavy cream and vanilla with an electric mixer until firm peaks form. Stir the cream into the flour until the mixture forms a soft, clumpy dough. Transfer the dough to a lightly floured surface and gently knead about 10 times, until the dough forms a ball. Pat the dough ball out to a ¾-inch thickness. Using a 2-inch round cutter or a small drinking glass, cut rounds of dough and place them on the prepared baking sheet. Gather the dough scraps, gently press them together, pat the dough out again, and cut more biscuits. Bake for about 13 to 15 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean. Transfer to a rack and cool. When ready to serve, split open the chocolate shortcake. Place a large spoonful of sugared cherries on one side of the biscuit. Top with a large spoonful of whipped cream and the remaining biscuit half. Spoon more whipped cream on top if desired.

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Whipping Heavy Cream With the proliferation of whipped cream available in squirt cans and frozen in tubs, making homemade is not a necessity. But with just a little work comes the reward of the rich flavor of freshly whipped cream. For best results, place the beaters or whisk, a glass or metal mixing bowl (plastic is not recommended), and the heavy cream in the freezer for about 10 minutes. Chilling everything makes the cream easier to whip. Use an electric mixer with a whisk attachment, if available, and whip the cream until soft peaks form. I use about 2 tablespoons powdered sugar to sweeten 1 cup of cream because it dissolves more readily than granulated sugar. For variations on plain whipped cream, try Brown Sugar Bourbon Whipped Cream (page 69) or Sour Cream Whipped Cream (below).

Sour Cream Whipped Cream makes about 2 cups

This delightful mix of fresh cream and sour cream gives

1 cup heavy or whipping cream ½ cup sour cream ½ teaspoon pure vanilla extract 2 tablespoons powdered sugar

a tangy twist to pies and shortcakes.

Place the heavy cream, a glass or metal bowl, and the beaters in the freezer for about 10 minutes. With an electric mixer, beat the heavy cream, sour cream, and vanilla in the chilled bowl until thick. Gradually add the powdered sugar, and continue beating until soft peaks form.

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Family Suppers When a new school year starts, we go back to regularly scheduled dinners, and we eat earlier than we do in the summertime. For those evenings when someone has to work late or attend a meeting or a sports practice, we eat as late as we can without fouling up bedtime. Good food and good sleep make for a successful school year, and they’re important for adults, too. Here are some of my favorite fall recipes for family dinners.

Chicken and Cornmeal Dumplings makes 6 servings

Cornmeal dumplings are heartier than traditional baking powder dumplings, and they use one of Kentucky’s favorite ingredients: cornmeal.

chicken One 3½- to 4-pound chicken, split or cut into parts 1 large onion, chopped 4 carrots, peeled and sliced 2 celery ribs, thinly sliced 2 cloves garlic, smashed 2 bay leaves 8 to 10 cups water ½ teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

dumplings ¾ cup unbleached all-purpose flour ¼ cup yellow or white cornmeal 1 teaspoon baking powder ½ teaspoon salt 1 large egg, beaten ¼ cup milk 2 tablespoons canola oil Place the chicken pieces in a Dutch oven or soup pot. Add the onion, carrot, celery, garlic, and bay leaves. Cover with the water. Turn the heat to medium, and bring the chicken to a

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gentle boil. Spoon off any foam that forms on the top of the broth. Reduce to a simmer, and cook for about 1 hour. When the chicken is cooked, remove it to a platter to cool. Keep the broth at a simmer and spoon off any excess fat or foam. Wipe off the inside top edge of the pot with a paper towel to remove impurities. When cool, pull the chicken meat off the bones and chop into small pieces. For the dumplings, whisk the flour, cornmeal, baking powder, and salt in a bowl. In a separate bowl, whisk the egg, milk, and oil together. Combine the ingredients with a fork. Set aside. Stir the chopped chicken into the broth. Taste and season as desired with salt and pepper. (It’s more difficult to season the broth after the dumplings are cooked, so adjust the seasonings now.) Use a teaspoon to drop the dumpling batter into the hot broth. Cover and cook for about 15 minutes, without peeking under the lid, until the dumplings are cooked throughout. Serve hot.

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Sorghum Sorghum cane is a long grass that grows well in Kentucky and is used extensively for syrup production in the southeastern states. Kentucky is one of the eight states in the Southeast and Midwest that produce about 90 percent of the total U.S. sorghum output. Sorghum grass also produces sorghum grain, which is most often used for animal feed. Sorghum molasses is a thick, amber-colored syrup made by boiling the juice pressed out of sorghum cane. It takes approximately 20 gallons of juice to yield 2 gallons of molasses. Sorghum molasses—or just sorghum, for short—is used in cooking as a sweetener or as a table syrup served over biscuits, pancakes, and cornbread. Traditional and blackstrap molasses sold at most supermarkets is processed from sugarcane, not sorghum cane, and has a slightly more robust flavor than sorghum molasses. In nonbaking applications (such as meat sauces, barbecue sauces, and baked beans), sorghum can be substituted for traditional or blackstrap molasses on a one-for-one basis. Sorghum adds a rich flavor to baked goods, but when it is substituted one-for-one for molasses, cut the amount of sugar in the recipe by one-third. Sorghum can also be substituted for honey in almost any recipe on a simple one-for-one basis. The exceptions are cookies and cakes made with baking powder. Because sorghum changes the acidity of the batter, the cake or cookie may not rise correctly. (In recipes calling for baking soda, this is not the case.) When substituting sorghum for sugar, the baker embarks on a bit of trial and error, and the exact ratios may vary among recipes. Replacing all the sugar with sorghum is not recommended. To replace granulated sugar with sorghum, use onethird more sorghum than the amount of sugar called for in the recipe, and decrease the amount of liquid (milk and/or water) by this same amount. Country Rock sorghum, made in Woodford County, and Oberholtzer’s sorghum, made in Liberty, are my favorite unblended sorghums, meaning that they are 100 percent pure and are not blended with corn syrup or molasses. Large supermarkets typically don’t sell sorghum, so if you see some for sale at a festival or small market, pick up a jar and keep it on hand. Since 1971, residents of West Liberty and surrounding areas in Morgan County have celebrated the Sorghum Festival in September. It boasts a mule-drawn sorghum cane mill, steaming vats of sorghum juice, and jugs of sorghum molasses for sale. Also held in September is the Hancock County Sorghum Festival, which showcases a sorghum mill, cornmeal grinding, sorghum and biscuit sampling, and fun for the entire family.

Stovetop Bourbon Barbecue Chicken makes 4 servings

For a weeknight supper, this jazzed up version of a Jane Brody recipe makes a hearty meal. Yellow Basmati Rice Pilaf (page 24), Olive Oil Mashed Potatoes (page 84), and Garlic Roasted Broccoli

One 3½- to 4-pound chicken, cut into 8 pieces Salt and pepper for seasoning 1 sweet onion, finely diced 1 cup ketchup 2 tablespoons apple cider vinegar 2 tablespoons honey or Kentucky sorghum or molasses 1 tablespoon Kentucky bourbon 1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

with Almonds (page 83) are good side-dish choices. Kentucky celebrates Colonel Harlan Sanders with a World Chicken Festival every September in London.

Season the chicken pieces with salt and pepper. In a Dutch oven or skillet with a lid, brown the chicken on both sides over medium heat. Set the chicken aside. Drain out all but 1 teaspoon of the fat. Add the onion and cook until soft, about 5 minutes. Stir in the ketchup, scraping browned bits off the bottom of the Dutch oven. Stir in the vinegar, honey or sorghum, bourbon, Worcestershire sauce, and pepper, and bring to a boil. Add the chicken and turn to coat with the sauce. Reduce heat to low. Cover and simmer for 30 minutes. Uncover and cook 15 more minutes to cook the chicken thoroughly and thicken the sauce. Serve hot.

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Root Beer Sloppy Joes makes 4 servings

With this moist, spicy skillet supper, no canned sloppy Joe sauce need apply. The bell pepper is optional—if a garden-fresh pepper is available, use it, but it’s not worth buying a pepper from Holland or Canada. Gild the lily and butter and griddletoast the buns before assembling the sandwich.

1 pound ground sirloin, ground turkey breast, or ground buffalo (bison) 1 medium onion, finely chopped (about 1 cup) ¼ cup finely chopped red bell pepper, optional 2 cloves garlic, minced 1 teaspoon chili powder ½ teaspoon dried thyme ½ teaspoon dry mustard ¼ teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1 cup ketchup ½ cup root beer or other dark soda 4 whole-grain sandwich rolls or buns In a large skillet, cook the ground meat until no longer pink. Drain off any excess moisture or fat. Add the onion, red pepper, and garlic and cook, stirring, for about 5 minutes, until softened. Stir in the chili powder, thyme, mustard, salt, and pepper. Cook and stir for 1 minute. Stir in the ketchup and root beer. Reduce the heat to medium low and cook for 10 to 15 minutes, until the sauce is thickened. Serve on toasted buttered rolls or buns.

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Mixed Greens with Pumpkin Seeds and Dried Cranberries makes about 6 servings

Freeze the goat cheese to make it easier to crumble.

5 ounces fresh baby mixed greens (about 5 cups) Honey Lemon Vinaigrette (page 116) ½ small red onion, thinly sliced (about ½ cup) ¼ cup roasted, salted, hulled pumpkin seeds ¼ cup dried cranberries 2 ounces crumbled soft goat cheese Arrange the mixed greens on a large platter or in a shallow salad bowl. Toss with half the vinaigrette. Mix in the onion, pumpkin seeds, cranberries, and goat cheese. Add more dressing if desired, or serve the remaining dressing on the side.

Pan-Roasted Brussels Sprouts with Brown Sugar makes 4 servings

When I caramelize brussels sprouts and then add a touch of brown sugar, they disappear from the pan.

1 tablespoon butter 1 pound brussels sprouts, trimmed and halved 1 clove garlic, minced ½ teaspoon salt Dash cayenne pepper 1 tablespoon brown sugar In a large skillet, heat the butter over medium heat. Place the brussels sprouts in the pan, cut side down. Sprinkle with garlic, salt, and cayenne pepper. Cover and cook for about 5 to 7 minutes, until the bottoms of the sprouts are golden brown. Stir in the brown sugar until dissolved.

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Maple-Roasted Apples and Onions makes 4 servings

8 medium apples, cored and cut into wedges 2 large onions, cut into wedges 2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar 2 tablespoons pure maple syrup 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 teaspoon dried thyme ½ teaspoon kosher salt ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper Preheat the oven to 400°F. Spray a rimmed baking sheet with nonstick cooking spray. Place the apples and onions in a bowl and mix with the vinegar, maple syrup, oil, thyme, salt, and pepper. Place on the prepared baking sheet and bake until golden brown, about 25 minutes.

Oven-Baked Sweet Potato Fries makes about 8 servings

This colorful, spicy alternative to white potatoes is gobbled up by even die-hard russet fans. I leave the skins

2 pounds sweet potatoes ¼ cup olive oil 1 teaspoon kosher salt ½ teaspoon ground cumin ½ teaspoon garlic powder 1⁄8 teaspoon cayenne pepper

on and season with fresh ground spices.

Preheat the oven to 425°F. Wash and scrub the potatoes and dry them thoroughly. Trim off the ends and cut into ½-inch-wide ×3-inch-long strips. Place in a large bowl. Toss with the oil, salt, cumin, garlic powder, and cayenne pepper. Spread on a rimmed baking sheet. Bake for 30 minutes, until browned and tender.

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Gingerbread with Sorghum makes 1 pan

⁄ cup canola oil ⁄ cup low-fat buttermilk 1 cup Kentucky sorghum or molasses 1 large egg 2¾ cups unbleached all-purpose flour 2 teaspoons baking soda 1 teaspoon salt 1½ teaspoons ground ginger 1 teaspoon cinnamon ¼ teaspoon ground cloves

13

23

Gingerbread is an old-time favorite. In Kentucky, squares of gingerbread used to be given away at polling places on Election Day to gain extra votes for a particular cause or candidate. Here, I modified a recipe culled from my grandmother’s recipe box. It tastes delightful with a dollop of Sour Cream Whipped Cream (page 242) or cut into squares and tucked into a lunchbox. For another gingerbread recipe, see Sour Cream Gingerbread Waffles (page 254).   The Knott County Gingerbread Festival in Hindman has been held every September since 1981. It features ginger in a va-

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Spray a 9-inch pan with nonstick cooking spray. In a bowl, mix the oil, buttermilk, and sorghum. Whisk in the egg until well blended. In another bowl, whisk together the flour, baking soda, salt, ginger, cinnamon, and cloves. Fold the flour mixture into the liquid mixture. Pour into the prepared pan and bake for about 45 minutes, or until the center springs back when touched lightly with the fingertips. Cool in the pan before cutting into squares.

riety of baked goods, as well as a contest for the largest gingerbread person.

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October The autumn colors change with the passing days, the oak coloring deeply, other trees becoming bare. The landscape acquires an openness, new spaciousness. Houses and barns appear, unseen through the leafy summer.—harlan hubbard, payne hollow journal October is to fall what January is to winter, April is to spring, and July is to summer—the first full month to embrace the season in all its splendor and glory. In my opinion, fall rivals spring as the most glorious season. The trees are magnificent, and in Kentucky, the peak leaf color occurs most often around the third week in October. The abundant harvest of fall is humbling as we, just like our pioneer ancestors, store the season’s bounty in preparation for the winter. Farmers’ markets finish off the year with the last of the local produce and then close up shop, except for those markets lucky enough to have enclosed shelters and stay open during cold or inclement weather. When winter approaches, it’s not uncommon for Kentuckians to move indoors for local shopping. Findlay Market, Ohio’s oldest continuously operating urban market, is just across the river from Northern Kentucky in downtown Cincinnati. There, for more than 100 years, vendors have sold meat, fish, poultry, produce, cheese, and ethnic foods under one roof. Cooler weather and the smell of smoke from a neighbor’s fireplace remind me that we’re heading indoors for family suppers, soups, and apple pies. Or we don jackets and drive to a fall harvest festival, tailgate

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at a football game, shop for apples and fresh-pressed cider at a roadside orchard, or visit Keeneland for the fall meet. The garden does not die in October. This is the time to think about planting garlic, a culinary crop that spends the fall, winter, and spring buried beneath the ground, much like the bulbs of tulips, daylilies, and daffodils.

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Good Morning Food A waffle iron is one of my favorite single-use countertop appliances, and nothing can replace it. Besides being a favorite breakfast food, waffles made of cornmeal can accompany a pot of chili for dinner. For best results, don’t wash the grids of the waffle iron. Instead, use a paper towel to wipe off the crumbs or stuck-on batter after each use. If the waffles stick, brush the grids with a bit of vegetable oil. My waffle iron is an 8-inch round model; the yields of the following recipes may vary if yours is a different size. For another kind of waffle iron, see Homemade Waffle Cones (page 196).

Cornmeal Waffles makes five 8-inch waffles

One of my food-related ah-ha moments came when my sister Kaye cooked cornbread batter in her waffle iron. This method enabled us to enjoy the whole-grain flavor of corn-

1 cup yellow cornmeal, preferably stone-ground ½ cup unbleached all-purpose flour 1 tablespoon sugar ½ teaspoon baking powder ½ teaspoon baking soda ½ teaspoon salt 1 cup low-fat buttermilk 1 large egg 2 tablespoons canola oil

meal without heating the oven. These waffles can be served for breakfast, lunch, or dinner with syrup, sliced fresh fruit, or any chili.

Preheat a waffle iron to medium. In a bowl, stir together the cornmeal, flour, sugar, baking powder, baking soda, and salt. In a separate bowl, mix together the buttermilk, egg, and oil. Stir the wet ingredients into the dry. Using a ½-cup measure, ladle the batter into the middle of the waffle iron. Close the lid and bake to the desired degree of doneness. Serve fresh off the iron or keep warm in a 200°F oven until served.

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Sour Cream Gingerbread Waffles makes about eight 6-inch waffles

With their robust, spicy flavor, these waffles work beautifully with wholegrain flour.

1 cup unbleached all-purpose flour ¾ cup whole wheat flour ¾ teaspoon baking powder 1 teaspoon baking soda ½ teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon ginger ½ teaspoon cinnamon ½ teaspoon dry mustard powder ¼ teaspoon ground cloves 2 large eggs 2 cups low-fat buttermilk ½ cup sour cream 2 tablespoons Kentucky sorghum or molasses ¼ cup canola oil or melted butter Preheat a waffle iron to medium. In a bowl, whisk together the all-purpose and whole wheat flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt, ginger, cinnamon, dry mustard, and cloves. In another bowl, whisk together the eggs, buttermilk, sour cream, sorghum, and oil. Pour the egg mixture into the flour and mix until just blended. Let sit for 5 minutes. Using a ½-cup measure, ladle the batter into the middle of the waffle iron. Close the lid and bake to the desired degree of doneness. Serve fresh off the iron or keep warm in a 200°F oven until served.

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Oven-Baked Pumpkin Butter makes about 4 cups

Modeled after a recipe for Brown County Apple Butter, this spicy, smooth butter utilizes pumpkin puree and tastes good on everything from pork to oatmeal and

5 cups fresh, or three 15-ounce cans, pumpkin puree 2 cups brown sugar ½ cup apple juice 2½ teaspoons ground ginger 2 teaspoons cinnamon ½ teaspoon ground allspice ½ teaspoon ground cloves ¼ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

vanilla ice cream to biscuits.

Preheat the oven to 350­°F. Spray a 13×9×2-inch baking dish with nonstick cooking spray. Place all the ingredients in a bowl and stir well to dissolve the sugar and distribute the spices. Spoon into the baking dish and bake uncovered for 1¾ to 2 hours. To test for doneness, drop a blob of pumpkin butter on a small plate: there should be no rim of liquid around the edge. Cool and store in jars in the refrigerator for up to 1 month.

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Concord Grape Preserves

most grapes are a late summer

1 quart Concord grapes (about 1½ pounds) ¾ cup sugar Zest from 1 lemon Juice of 1 lemon

or early fall fruit. The wild fox

1 tablespoon quick-cooking tapioca

makes about 2 cups

Many are surprised to learn that

grape led to cultivated varieties, such as the Concord grape. This quintessential American fruit is worth the time and effort to find and cook because of its intense grape flavor. Buy Concord grapes as soon as they are available, because the season is short. Concord grapes do have one downside—the seeds have to be removed. A spoonful of grape preserves served on scones or buttermilk biscuits is an all-

Pinch the grapes to slip off the skins. Place the green pulp in a saucepan and the purple skins in a bowl. Bring the green pulp to a boil, reduce the heat, and simmer for 5 minutes, until the color lightens and the pulp softens. To remove the seeds, stir and push the hot pulp through a wire mesh strainer using a silicone spatula or wooden spoon. In the same saucepan, mix the purple grape skins, strained grape pulp, sugar, lemon zest, lemon juice, and tapioca. Return to the heat and cook for 5 to 7 minutes, until thickened. Cool and refrigerate.

American embellishment.

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Trust Is All We Have Some dear friends were in the process of adopting two Haitian children when the 2010 earthquake struck. It was neither the beginning nor the end of this journey that drove me to my knees; it was the middle of the journey and the trust required by all involved to make sure this potential tragedy ended in a heartwarming way. The international adoption process was well under way: letters of recommendation, home visits, trips to Haiti, and a slew of other legalities. The day before the earthquake, our friends’ children were more than halfway home, so to speak. On the morning of the earthquake, it was as if time stood still. Walls came down, people smothered, children were abandoned, and the orphans at the orphanage lived in limbo, with no one sure how the rest of their story would unfold. From our vantage point, all we could do was sit vigil with our friends. We kept in touch via phone, Facebook, and e-mail while they pulled every string they could to bring their children home. One Saturday afternoon we made a pot of lentil soup and delivered it to our friends, along with a loaf of bread and a bottle of wine. No one in their house was sleeping particularly well, and in the midst of worrying and taking care of their other children, a pot of soup seemed like the most nourishing thing we could do. At the same time, the Haitian orphans sat vigil outside the orphanage in an openair courtyard, fearful the walls might collapse. They cooked what little food they had while worrying about the availability of clean water, clean diapers, and the other basics we take for granted. After several days and much work from local politicians, our friends’ children, along with about fifty other orphans, were granted permission to be released to their adoptive families ahead of schedule. Early one morning the children were taken by the hand, led out of the orphanage, and brought to the airport. The plane took them through Miami, to Colorado, and ultimately to Cincinnati to meet their adoptive families. While being shepherded on and off buses and airplanes, these children had no option but to trust the adults leading

running foot  257

them. Because of their ages, they were unable to ask when, who, where, or why. All they could do was trust—trust that the adults in charge were doing the right thing for them. This story solidified how much my children trust me and rely on me for almost everything. They trust they’ll be fed and provided with shelter and clothing. They trust they’ll go to school, have a place to do their homework, and be allowed free time to play with their friends. They trust I’ll go to the grocery, stock the refrigerator, and, on most nights, cook a meal for our family to eat together. They trust we’ll visit our extended family and that they can have friends over to spend the night. In the world of children, most relationships boil down to a heaping helping of trust. All I need do is witness the deep well of trust in the beautiful brown eyes of my new Haitian friends. They trusted that someone would lead them where they were supposed to go, to a family who would take care of them, love them, and feed them. One day, they will go off into the world to return the favor to their own children, or perhaps to other children who, like themselves, deserve a chance to live with adults they can trust, love, and depend on.

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Buffalo The great American buffalo (or bison) is a magnificent animal. It is the largest land mammal in North America since the end of the Ice Age. Before European settlement, the herd size varied from 30 million to 70 million animals over most of North America. Currently, more than 300,000 buffalo live in North America, with the majority being raised to fulfill the rising demand for buffalo meat. Buffalo meat is gaining in popularity because it is a natural meat, raised with sustainable agricultural practices. Federal regulations prohibit the use of artificial growth hormones and the use of antibiotics to increase the buffalo’s growth rates. Because the buffalo is a natural part of the North American ecosystem, buffalo ranches are beneficial to the environment.  Buffalo is slightly sweeter than beef, and when not overcooked, it is tender and juicy. In general, buffalo steaks and roasts taste best when cooked slowly, at low heat, to an internal temperature of 120°F for medium- to medium-rare doneness. Because of the risk of E. coli, ground buffalo needs to be cooked to an internal temperature of 155°F, just like ground beef. Buffalo is leaner than beef and may dry out more quickly, so be careful not to overcook it. (In other, more fatty meats, the fat acts as an insulator and adds to the cooking time.) Nestled in the tranquil Bluegrass region between Georgetown and Frankfort is the small town called Stamping Ground, in honor of the herds of buffalo that once moved along the Great Buffalo Trace through Central Kentucky. The buffalo would stop for a long drink at “Buffalo Spring” in the middle of what is now Stamping Ground. I spent many Sunday afternoons and summer days in Stamping Ground at my aunt’s farm, where we walked the fields, star-gazed from her front porch on cloudless nights, and ate many meals gathered around her kitchen table. On the first Saturday in October, Stamping Ground hosts Buffalo Daze—a festival that features buffalo burgers, homemade barbecue, fried apple pies, and a horse-drawn sorghum mill.

Tailgating My childhood home sat just three blocks from Commonwealth Stadium, home of the University of Kentucky’s Wildcats. It is no exaggeration to say my parents planned their social calendar around the UK football schedule. My father didn’t miss any home games, even when they were played at UK’s Stoll Field, and my parents attended out-of-town games whenever they could. And they always sat in their seats until the bitter end, so as not to miss any last-minute victory or loss. UK football and other sporting events in Kentucky include the popular tradition of tailgating—that is, serving food and drink out of the back of a car, truck, or van. Tailgating can be the best of times when the weather cooperates, or a soggy mess when it doesn’t, but regardless of the outdoor conditions, it requires a method of keeping hot foods hot and cold foods cold, and sometimes a way to cook food on-site.

menu Turnip Greens Dip Buffalo Sliders with Smoky Remoulade Sauce Red Beans and Rice with Chili Vinaigrette (page 157) Apple Pear Pecan Crisp (page 209) Bluegrass Breeze

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Turnip Greens Dip makes about 12 servings

Inspired by Southern Living, this recipe puts a southern twist on the everpopular baked artichoke dip. Serve with wheat crackers, pita chips, or other thick chips.

1 tablespoon olive oil 1 small onion, finely chopped (about ½ cup) 2 cloves garlic, chopped ½ teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes One 16-ounce bag frozen chopped turnip greens ¼ teaspoon salt One 8-ounce package Neufchâtel or cream cheese 1 cup mayonnaise ½ cup sour cream ¾ cup shredded Parmesan Preheat the oven to 375°F. Spray a 10-inch glass or ceramic pie dish with nonstick cooking spray. In a skillet, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the onion and cook until softened and golden, about 5 minutes. Stir in the garlic and red pepper flakes and cook for 1 minute. Add the turnip greens and salt and cook for 5 minutes to soften the greens. Turn off the heat and add the cream cheese to melt. Stir in the mayonnaise, sour cream, and Parmesan. Spread in the prepared baking dish. Bake for about 25 minutes, until hot and bubbly.

october  261

Buffalo Sliders with Smoky Remoulade Sauce makes 12 sliders

These are easy to hold, easy to eat, and easy to grill on-site. Substitute ground chuck for the buffalo meat if desired.

1½ pounds ground buffalo (bison) 1 teaspoon smoked paprika 1 teaspoon garlic powder ¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper ½ teaspoon salt 12 dinner rolls or slider buns Red leaf lettuce Smoky Remoulade Sauce (below) In a bowl, mix the ground buffalo, paprika, garlic powder, cayenne pepper, and salt. Divide into 12 portions and shape into small patties. Layer in a container, using a sheet of wax paper or plastic wrap to divide the burgers. Refrigerate overnight. When tailgating, pack the burgers into a cooler. When ready to cook, preheat a grill to medium high. Grill for 5 minutes on each side. Serve on split dinner rolls or slider buns. Top with lettuce and a spoonful of Smoky Remoulade Sauce.

Smoky Remoulade Sauce makes about 1 cup

This sauce is good on everything from fish cakes or shrimp to hamburgers. If smoked paprika isn’t

¾ cup mayonnaise 2 green onions, thinly sliced ¼ cup chopped fresh parsley 1 clove garlic, minced 2 tablespoons coarse-grain mustard ½ teaspoon smoked paprika

available, substitute sweet paprika.

In a bowl, mix all ingredients until well blended. Chill for at least 1 hour for the best flavor.

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Bluegrass Breeze makes 1 cocktail

Adapted from a recipe created by BourbonBlog.com,

1½ ounces Kentucky bourbon ½ ounce Triple Sec 3 ounces ginger ale Fresh orange wedges

this was the official cocktail of the World Equestrian Games held in Lexington. It’s a refreshing and cre-

Fill a tall glass with ice. Pour in the bourbon and Triple Sec. Top off with ginger ale, a squeeze of fresh orange juice, and an orange twist.

ative way to sip Kentucky bourbon.

Harvest Supper When the weather turns cool, we head back indoors. The oven is lit and the warmth of the kitchen is a welcome relief from the air-conditioning. If I’m lucky, I can open the windows during the day to let in the crisp fall air. October is a beautiful month to have a few friends over for dinner. When I host a dinner party, it’s not a fancy affair—just a spread of freshly prepared food with seasonal side dishes and a simple, home-style dessert.

menu Roasted Brined Chicken Fall Salad with Pears and Maple Balsamic Vinaigrette Maple Mashed Sweet Potatoes Braised Kale with Diced Tomato Concord Grape Piettes with Pecan Streusel Topping

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Roasted Brined Chicken makes 6 servings

This recipe requires at least a 3-hour brine, so begin brining in the afternoon to serve this chicken for dinner. I tend to be picky about the chickens I buy. I avoid

½ gallon (2 quarts) cold water ½ cup kosher salt or ¼ cup table salt ¼ cup packed dark brown sugar One 4½- to 5-pound chicken Juice of 1 large lemon 3 tablespoons fresh thyme or 1 tablespoon dried ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 10 cloves garlic, peeled

added hormones or antibiotics, and I like to buy an all-natural bird with no salt solutions or herb flavorings squirted into the flesh or garlic butter rubbed onto the skin. I prefer to add the seasonings myself.

To brine the chicken, fill a 2-quart pitcher with the cold water. Stir in the salt and sugar until dissolved. Place the chicken in a large glass or stainless-steel bowl or in a 2-gallon zip-top bag. Pour the brine over the chicken so that it’s covered with liquid. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap or seal the bag. Refrigerate for at least 3 hours, or up to 8 hours. To roast the chicken, preheat the oven to 400°F. Remove the chicken from the brine and pat dry with paper towels. Set the chicken, breast side up, in a shallow roasting pan on a rack. Squeeze the lemon juice all over the chicken and sprinkle liberally with thyme and black pepper. Tuck the garlic cloves into the chicken’s cavity. Roast in the oven for about 1 hour 15 minutes, or until a thermometer inserted in the thigh reads 165°F. Let the chicken rest for 15 to 20 minutes before cutting into pieces. Drizzle with pan juices and serve.

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Brining Tips for Chicken Brining involves soaking the chicken in a saltwater solution. I have three important tips: (1) Don’t overdo it. If 3 to 10 hours of brining is good, 24 hours is not better. Brining for too long results in a pickled, oversalted taste. (2) Adding brown sugar to the brine results in a caramelized flavor. Other seasonings that can be added include apple juice or cider; hearty spices such as cloves, cinnamon, or allspice; and herbs such as rosemary, thyme, or tarragon. (3) To roast a brined bird, use a very hot oven, preferably around 400°F. Roast for 15 minutes per pound, plus an additional 15 minutes, or until a thermometer inserted into the thigh reads 165°F. Before cutting up the chicken, let it rest for 15 to 20 minutes.

Fall Salad with Pears and Maple Balsamic Vinaigrette makes about 6 servings

It’s important to make the dressing first so the sliced pears can be dunked in the dressing to prevent them

dressing ¼ cup balsamic vinegar ¼ cup pure maple syrup ¼ teaspoon salt ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper ¾ cup olive oil

from turning brown.

salad 2 Bosc or Bartlett pears, sliced 4 ounces mixed salad greens (about 4 cups) ½ small red onion, very thinly sliced (about ½ cup) ½ cup chopped walnuts ½ cup crumbled Blue cheese In a bowl, mix the vinegar, maple syrup, salt, pepper, and oil. Place the sliced pears in another bowl and toss with ¼ cup dressing. Arrange the salad greens in a large, shallow salad bowl or on a platter. Toss with half of the remaining dressing. Arrange the pears, red onion, walnuts, and cheese on top of the greens. Drizzle with more dressing.

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Maple Mashed Sweet Potatoes makes about 6 servings

Baking sweet potatoes almost caramelizes the pulp, for a richer, sweeter taste compared with boiled

6 medium sweet potatoes (about 2½ pounds) ¼ cup (½ stick) butter 3 tablespoons pure maple syrup ½ teaspoon cinnamon ½ teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

sweet potatoes. I use this same baking technique for Sweet Potatoes with Pecan Topping (page 304).

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Place the sweet potatoes on a rimmed baking sheet. Bake until tender when poked with a fork, about 1 hour 20 minutes. When the potatoes are cool to the touch, cut a slit in the top and squeeze the pulp into a saucepan. Heat over low heat and add the butter. Mash the potatoes with an electric mixer or by hand. Stir in the maple syrup, cinnamon, salt, and pepper.

Braised Kale with Diced Tomato makes about 6 servings

2 tablespoons olive oil 4 cloves garlic, sliced 1½ cups diced fresh tomatoes or one 15-ounce can diced tomatoes 1 teaspoon ground cumin ½ teaspoon salt ¼ teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1 pound chopped fresh kale In a Dutch oven or large skillet, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the garlic and cook while stirring for about 1 minute. Stir in the tomatoes, cumin, salt, red pepper flakes, and pepper. Add the kale and toss with the tomatoes. Cover and cook for about 15 minutes, until the kale is tender.

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Pecans I don’t think anyone would argue that, next to peanuts, pecans reign as the quintessential southern nut. Baked into pies, cookies, and fruitcakes and toasted and added to meat and green salads, pecans have a mild, gentle flavor. The pecan tree grows wild in the south-central part of the United States and has been cultivated in areas as far west as California and as far east as North Carolina. Along the Ohio River in Hickman, two Kentucky businesses grow and sell pecans—Black’s Pecans and Kentucky Nut Corporation. Kentucky Nut Corporation’s pecans are sold under the brand name Kentucky Kernel Pecans. These pecans, which are harvested from wild pecan trees, are smaller than cultivated varieties. Hickman also hosts a pecan festival in September. About 8 ounces (½ pound) shelled pecans equals 2 cups of nuts. Pecans are high in fat, so it’s best to store them in the refrigerator or freezer to prevent rancidity. To toast pecans, put the shelled nuts in a dry skillet over medium heat. Stir until golden brown, about 10 minutes.

Concord Grape Piettes with Pecan Streusel Topping makes about 30 piettes

These piettes make a unique finger dessert. Extra filling freezes well for another batch of piettes or to spread on a hot biscuit.

Cream Cheese Pastry (page 269) Concord Grape Preserves (page 256) ½ cup unbleached all-purpose flour ½ cup brown sugar ½ cup finely chopped pecans ¼ cup (½ stick) butter, melted 1 teaspoon cinnamon ¼ teaspoon salt Preheat the oven to 375°F. Generously spray three 12-cup mini muffin pans with nonstick cooking spray. Shape the Cream Cheese Pastry into 1-inch balls using a #100 scoop or a melon baller to ensure a consistent size. Place the balls of dough into the muffin pans. Using your index finger or the end of thick wooden spoon, make indentations in the dough balls to create small pastry shells. Press the dough up the sides of the muffin cups. Using a teaspoon, fill each pastry shell half full with Concord Grape Preserves. Do not overfill, or the filling will bubble out during baking. Bake for 20 minutes. Meanwhile, mix together the flour, brown sugar, pecans, butter, cinnamon, and salt. Remove the piettes from the oven and place 1 tablespoon topping on each. Return to the oven and continue baking for about 10 minutes, until the topping is browned. Cool for 5 to 10 minutes. With a small knife or offset spatula, remove the piettes from the pan and cool completely before serving.

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Cream Cheese Pastry makes enough dough for about 30 piettes or one 9-inch pie crust

3 ounces Neufchâtel or cream cheese, softened ½ cup (1 stick) butter, softened 1½ cups unbleached all-purpose flour ½ teaspoon salt 2 tablespoons ice water In a food processor with the metal blade, pulse the cream cheese, butter, flour, and salt until the mixture resembles coarse crumbs. Sprinkle with ice water and pulse just until the dough starts to form a ball. To form a 9-inch pie crust: Wrap the dough in plastic wrap and press it together to form a disc. Refrigerate for at least 1 hour. After dough has chilled, roll it out on a lightly floured surface into an 11-inch circle, and place it in a 9-inch pie pan. Flute the edges: using the index finger of one hand, push the dough between the thumb and index finger of the other hand to form U-shaped indentations about 1 inch apart all around the edge. Refrigerate until ready to fill. To form piette shells, see Concord Grape Piettes with Pecan Streusel Topping (page 268).

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Apples Apples are probably the most widely recognized fruit—from the shiny apple laid on the teacher’s desk to the apples sliced and baked in a pie. Whether prepared savory, sweet, or eaten out of hand, apples have a special place in my kitchen. As the days get shorter, apple trees are brimming with fruit and ripe apples drop to the ground, indicating it’s time to take advantage of the apple harvest. Although some Kentucky apples have an early “summer” crop (such as Ginger Gold), most varieties are harvested in September. I wait until October to shop for local apples because of the wider variety available, plus the fall colors and mid-October temperatures create a beautiful backdrop for a trip to the apple orchard. Nothing beats the flavor, quality, and variety of apples grown near my home. When shopping at the apple orchard, it’s important to select the right apple for the cooking method. Because the varieties of apple are often numerous, I tell the grower how I want to cook the apples, and he or she provides recommendations about the best variety to use. I don’t lose sleep over the appearance of the apples, for some fine-tasting apples have a bit of discoloration or brown spots. Outer beauty is not what to look for in an apple—just flavor, juice, and crunch. Store apples in the refrigerator or in an unheated garage. But because apples tend to absorb odors, be careful about what else might be stored in the garage. An unheated section of the basement also works well for storing apples. Before I use the apples I give them a good wash and dry, cut out any brown or soft parts, and proceed with the recipe.

Deep-Dish Bourbon Brown Sugar Apple Pie makes 1 pie

This recipe, adapted from The Splendid Table, is a show-stopping dessert with a single butter crust covering the dark, spiced apple filling. Bourbon adds a unique flavor and character to the apples, but substitute vanilla extract if desired.

6 medium apples, peeled and sliced (about 6 cups) Juice of 1 lemon 1 cup chopped pecans or walnuts, toasted ¾ cup raisins ½ cup packed brown sugar 2 tablespoons unbleached all-purpose flour 2 tablespoons Kentucky bourbon 2 tablespoons butter, melted ¾ teaspoon ground allspice ¾ teaspoon cinnamon ¼ teaspoon ground ginger 1⁄8 teaspoon ground cloves 1⁄8 teaspoon salt All-Butter Pie Crust (page 90) 1 large egg, beaten 1 tablespoon granulated sugar Preheat the oven to 400°F. For the filling, toss together the apples, lemon juice, walnuts, raisins, brown sugar, flour, bourbon, butter, allspice, cinnamon, ginger, cloves, and salt. Pour the apple mixture into a 9-inch deep-dish pie plate. Roll the All-Butter Pie Crust dough to ¼ inch thick. Lift and lay it over the filling. Trim the pastry to extend about 1 inch past the dish’s rim. Work around the dish, rolling the pastry under itself to form a thick rim. Press the pastry to the dish’s edge to seal. Brush the dough with the egg, and sprinkle with the sugar. With a small knife, cut 6 V-shaped vents in the crust. Set the pie on a baking sheet and bake for 45 minutes, or until the crust is golden brown and the juices bubble. Serve warm or at room temperature.

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Homemade Pizza Night Friday night is pizza night at our house in the fall and winter, when I don’t mind a 500°F oven warming up the kitchen. The smell of fresh pizza baking is a welcome addition to a cool evening, and the crisp crust and fresh ingredients approximate a fire-baked pizza. Make this a participatory meal by letting everyone add their own toppings.

Cornmeal Pizza Dough makes about 1¼ pounds dough, enough for two 12-inch pizzas

1 cup warm (105° to 115°F) water 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 tablespoon honey 2½ cups unbleached all-purpose flour 2⁄3 cup white or yellow cornmeal 1 package (2¼ teaspoons) instant or quick-rise yeast ½ teaspoon salt In a bowl, mix together the water, oil, and honey. In a food processor with the plastic blade, blend together the flour, cornmeal, yeast, and salt. With the processor running, pour in the water mixture. Process until the dough forms a ball, then let the processor run for about 30 seconds to knead the dough. Place the dough in an oiled bowl and turn the dough to coat it with oil. Cover with plastic wrap and let rise in a warm place until doubled in bulk, about 1½ hours. When the dough has risen, punch it down and divide it into two pieces. Cover and let the dough rest for at least 5 minutes. On a lightly floured surface, roll the dough into 7- or 12-inch rounds. Use as directed in the pizza recipe.

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Thirty-Minute Pizza Sauce makes about 2 cups

Put the sauce on to simmer while the pizza dough is rising.

One 28-ounce can whole tomatoes, drained (about 3 cups) ¼ cup olive oil 6 cloves garlic, crushed 2 teaspoons dried basil 1 teaspoon sugar ½ teaspoon salt 1⁄8 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes In a blender or food processor, pulse the tomatoes until smooth but a bit chunky. In a saucepan, heat the oil over medium-low heat. Add the garlic and cook until fragrant and pale golden brown, about 2 minutes. Add the tomatoes, basil, sugar, salt, and red pepper flakes. Bring to a boil, reduce to a simmer, and cook uncovered, stirring occasionally, until thickened and reduced, about 30 minutes.

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Red Grape, Caramelized Onion, and Goat Cheese Pizza makes one 12-inch pizza

Sweet caramelized onions and salty olives cozy up with goat cheese and red grapes on this pizza. Freeze the goat cheese to make it

2 tablespoons olive oil, divided 1 large onion, thinly sliced ½ recipe Cornmeal Pizza Dough (page 272) ½ cup seedless red grapes, cut in half ¾ cup green olives, pitted and sliced ½ cup crumbled soft goat cheese Several sprigs fresh thyme

easier to crumble.

Preheat the oven to 500°F. If using a baking stone, preheat that as well. In a large skillet, heat 1 tablespoon oil over medium heat. Add the onion and cook about 10 minutes, or until golden brown. Roll the dough into a 12-inch round, and brush with the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil. Scatter the onion, grapes, olives, goat cheese, and thyme over the pizza dough. Bake for 10 to 12 minutes, or until the juice is just starting to ooze from the grapes. Remove from oven and let stand for about 5 minutes before cutting into wedges.

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Broccoli, Apple, Raisin Salad makes 12 servings

This cross between Waldorf and broccoli salad is ideal for transporting to a party and adds some fruit and vegetables to pizza night.

dressing ½ cup mayonnaise ¼ cup sugar 3 tablespoons apple cider vinegar 2 teaspoons Dijon mustard ¼ teaspoon salt ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

If you use supermarket apples, read about the Organic

salad

Dirty Dozen on page 10.

6 cups chopped fresh broccoli 3 Gala or Golden Delicious apples, cored and cut into chunks ¼ cup finely chopped red onion 1 cup raisins 12 ounces bacon, cooked crisp and crumbled In a large bowl, whisk together the mayonnaise, sugar, vinegar, mustard, salt, and pepper. Stir in the broccoli, apple, onion, and raisins, coating well with the dressing. Add the bacon just before serving to maintain its crispness.

october  275

November Every day is Thanksgiving.—harlan hubbard, payne hollow journal November serves up the last blast of the fall harvest before the colder, sometimes snowier days of December. At our house, we begin the countdown to our Thanksgiving celebration in early November. Our family usually gathers in Lexington, but as our relatives have moved outside of Kentucky, we’ve also been known to travel around the country to celebrate the holiday. By the end of November, my garden is officially wilted and brown. Patio containers that persevered through the month of October take a hit with the first frost and the subsequent cold weather. The irony of this time of year is that as my gardens dies, my kitchen somehow feels more alive. As the early darkness and cold weather encroach, the kitchen becomes light and warm with cooking. The front-yard ball games end earlier in the evening due to darkness, and the family comes indoors. Menus and cooking methods also change in the fall: roasted root vegetables, steaming pots of chili or stew, and Thanksgiving turkey, freshbaked pie, and stewed cranberries. When we remodeled the kitchen in our vintage 1961 ranch home, my goal was to create a warm space where I could share food with my family and friends. We painted the walls a shade of pumpkin orange and

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set a stone tile backsplash behind the stove. These decorating techniques went a long way to create the warmth I wanted in my kitchen, but I soon realized it was not the décor, but the heat of the oven, the slurp of the soup out of the bowl, and the voices of those I love who raise the temperature and create the spirit of my kitchen. Winter is getting ready to set in on the world outside but it doesn’t need to dampen the spirits of a kitchen. Take pleasure in keeping your kitchen alive in the fall with the fire from cooking and the fire in the belly of those we feed.

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Good Morning Food Goetta (pronounced get-ah) is an ideal example of a regional Kentucky food. It’s popular in Northern Kentucky and on the west side of Cincinnati. Traditionally a breakfast food, goetta is cut into squares, fried, and served as a side dish with eggs or pancakes. Some serve goetta with apple butter, ketchup, syrup, or grape jelly, while others eat it plain. Similar to Pennsylvania Dutch scrapple (made of pork and cornmeal) or Amish pon hoss (pork and flour), goetta was traditionally made from pork scraps mixed with broth and pinhead (or steel-cut) oats. It is commonly believed goetta was introduced to Northern Kentucky by the German immigrants because of its striking similarity to Grützewurst—a pork and beef sausage with oats and spices. According to Fern Storer, the late food editor for the Cincinnati Post, “Goetta was simple, economical fare that used to be made at hog-butchering time on farms. Scrappy meat bits were long cooked with seasoned broth and thickened with oats or cornmeal (for Scrapple).” Most every Northern Kentucky family has its favorite recipe for goetta, much like they do for Cincinnati Chili (page 287). Goetta is most commonly seasoned with bay leaves, rosemary, salt, pepper, thyme, and sometimes onion. Dorsel’s Pinhead Oat Meal is a supermarket staple in the Greater Cincinnati area because of goetta, but if it’s not available, steel-cut oats are an acceptable substitute. Not up to the task of making your own? Pick up a pound of commercially made goetta from Glier’s in Covington. Alternatively, smaller-batch goetta is available at Finke’s Market in Fort Wright, or Kremer’s Market in Crescent Springs. Covington’s Mainstrasse Village holds an annual Goettafest in June. Glier’s Goettafest takes place in Newport every August.

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Pork Sausage Goetta makes about 6 pounds

Because of its long list of strange ingredients, sometimes including beef heart, some folks won’t eat commercially prepared goetta. Most homemade goetta has a shorter ingredient list and uses ground pork and familiar spices, making it easy to prepare. Fern

8 cups water 1 teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 2½ cups pinhead oats 2 pounds ground pork 2 teaspoons sage 1 teaspoon dried thyme 1 teaspoon dried rosemary ¾ teaspoon garlic powder ¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper 2 bay leaves 2 tablespoons canola oil

Storer, the late food editor for the Cincinnati Post, in her cookbook Recipes Remembered, used fresh pork sausage to make goetta. Her idea inspired this recipe for a highly seasoned goetta.

Spray two 9×5×3-inch loaf pans with nonstick cooking spray. In a Dutch oven, bring the water to a boil. Add the salt, pepper, and oats. Cover and cook over low heat for 2 hours, stirring often. Stir in the ground pork, sage, thyme, rosemary, garlic powder, cayenne pepper, and bay leaves. Cook for 1 hour, stirring often. Remove the bay leaves. Divide the mixture into the prepared loaf pans. Cover with plastic wrap, cool slightly, and refrigerate overnight. Turn out of the pan and cut into ½-inch slices. In a large skillet, heat canola oil over medium-high heat. Add slices of goetta and cook about 5 minutes on each side, until golden brown.

november  279

Slow Cooker Vegetarian Goetta makes about 2½ pounds

This meatless alternative to traditional goetta, made with black beans and onion, was inspired by a conversation with Carol Mullen, who makes vegetarian goetta for her grandchildren. It’s easy to prepare and popular among those who are new to the concept of goetta.

1¼ cup pinhead oats 3 cups warmed vegetable broth ¼ cup olive oil 1 medium onion, finely chopped (about 1 cup) 4 cloves garlic, minced 1½ cups cooked, or one 15-ounce can, black beans, drained 2 teaspoons dried thyme 1 teaspoon cumin ¼ teaspoon red pepper flakes ¾ teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 2 tablespoons canola oil In a slow cooker, combine all the ingredients except the canola oil. Cover and cook on high for about 1 hour 45 minutes, or until very thick. Spray a 9×5×3-inch loaf pan with nonstick cooking spray. Spoon the cooked mixture into the prepared loaf pan. Cover with plastic wrap, cool slightly, and refrigerate overnight. Turn out of the pan and cut into ½-inch slices. In a large skillet, heat canola oil over medium-high heat. Add slices of goetta and cook about 5 minutes on each side, until golden brown.

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Herbed Pork Sausage Patties makes 1 pound, or 8 patties

I grow weary of buying prepared sausage. It seems greasy at times, and when I can’t fully comprehend the mishmash of ingredients on the label, I make some from scratch. Mix ground

1 pound ground pork 2 teaspoons dried thyme 2 teaspoons dried sage 1 teaspoon brown sugar ½ teaspoon garlic powder ¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper 1 teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

pork (or even ground turkey) with readily available spices and cook it straight up, or use in recipes that call for fresh bulk sausage.

In a bowl, mix together all the ingredients. Shape into 8 patties. Heat a large skillet over medium heat. Cook the sausage patties until browned on both sides and cooked throughout, about 10 minutes total.

Oven-Fried Breakfast Potatoes

from college, they could be as-

2 pounds all-purpose red or gold potatoes, scrubbed and cut into 1-inch chunks 2 tablespoons canola or olive oil ½ teaspoon Spicy Seasoning Mix (page 93), optional ½ teaspoon kosher salt

sured of at least one hot break-

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

makes about 6 servings

My father-in-law Henry loved to fry potatoes for breakfast. Whenever his kids were home

fast, complete with fried taters. This oven-fried recipe frees up the stovetop for Pork Sausage Goetta (page 279) or Herbed Pork Sausage Patties (above) and a batch of scrambled eggs.

Preheat the oven to 400°F. Place the chopped potatoes in a 13×9×2-inch glass baking dish and toss with the oil, Spicy Seasoning Mix, salt, and pepper. Bake for 30 minutes, until softened and golden brown.

The Spicy Seasoning Mix is optional, but I recommend it.

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Spice Up the Cooking For as long as I can remember, I’ve had a secret love affair with spices. On hot summer afternoons when I was a kid, my sisters Barbara and Mary and I would ride our one-speed bicycles to the public library’s bookmobile, located on the outskirts of our neighborhood. After checking out our typical bagful of books, I’d talk them into riding a bit farther to an unusual shop nearby. Appropriately named The Coffee, Tea and Spice House, this small, dark corner establishment sold all of the above, in addition to several flavors of hand-dipped Häagen-Dazs ice cream, including my favorite rum raisin. To be honest, what lured me to the spice house wasn’t the ice cream but the dizzying bouquet of freshly ground French roast and Kenyan coffee and spices I’d never heard of—turmeric, cumin, saffron, and coriander. At twelve years of age, I was a bit too young to do any serious shopping, but the aromas that lay beyond the door with the tinkling bell made the sweaty bicycle ride home more bearable. I equate these excursions with my sisters to a similar experience I had when tagging along with my pipe-smoking father to buy tobacco. Similar to the spice shop, Strauss Tobacconist offered exotic scents for free. I’m not sure I understand the addiction that lured my father back again and again, but the fragrances that emerged when the owner cracked open a bin of tobacco were worth the price of admission. Flash forward about twenty years. Another spice epiphany occurred when Chef Fitch initiated our class of white-coated chefs-in-training to the basics of cooking with spices. I learned spices are the seeds, bark, roots, or fruit of plants or trees. With the exception of a few spices such as dill seed, mustard seed, and coriander seed, we don’t grow spices in our home gardens (what we grow are delicate, leafy herbs). Spices are typically imported from warm, sunny locales such as India, Spain, Morocco and other parts of northern Africa, and the Near and Far East. The oils in the spices hold the flavor, and when the spice is ground, the flavor is unlocked and released into the food. Chef Fitch discussed the importance of cooking with

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the freshest spices available, and we learned to roast or toast spices to enhance the flavor and to grind spices right before they are used to preserve the essential oils. I frequently buy spices at Mediterranean Imports, a small shop in Findlay Market. I request a specific spice, and Dean or one of his helpers scoops a small portion into a plastic bag. He writes the spice’s name on a piece of masking tape and sticks the tape to the side of the bag. I pay for the spice, and as I walk out with my small spice stash tucked in my shopping bag, I feel almost felonious, as if I’ve participated in some sort of illegal transaction. Another source of spices is Penzey’s. Order a copy of the Penzey’s catalog, which is a visual treat when it arrives in the mail. With the passage of thirty years, some culinary training, and a heaping helping of desire, the gangly twelve-year-old girl who bicycled around Lexington can finally do more than merely peer over the counter, stealing whiffs of an exotic world she had yet to discover. I have rekindled my affection for spices. I love opening the tall, skinny spice cabinet situated by my stove, and I hope the spice-filled meals I prepare transport those who eat at my table to faraway places where vendors offer intoxicating aromas to anyone who takes the time to stop and smell the spices.

running foot  283

Pork Introduced to the southeastern part of North America in the sixteenth century, pigs have been on Kentuckians’ menus since before our great state was founded. Pigs were to a Kentucky barnyard what corn was to the garden. They were easy to raise, could be fattened on corn, and thrived on the scraggly land and hills. More important, pork could easily be preserved to feed a family during the wintertime. Pigs were traditionally slaughtered when the weather was cool, between Thanksgiving and Christmas, and the hams, shoulders, loins, and belly were cured, smoked, and salted in preparation for the winter freeze. It’s no surprise that pork is a mainstay in many of the traditional meals of Kentuckians. As raising pigs for food became an industry, slaughterhouses sprang up across the Midwest. Cincinnati became the first commercial pig-slaughtering center and was known as Porkopolis. Today’s pigs are raised leaner than those of yesteryear, and pork tenderloin, pork shoulder, and spareribs are as popular as ever. Barbecued pork ribs or shoulders are still a mainstay of Fourth of July picnics, and city and country hams appear on Easter and Christmas tables across the state. For safety, most cuts of pork should be cooked to a final internal temperature of 160°F. Cook pork to an internal temperature of 150° to 155°F, then remove it from the grill or oven and allow it to rest for about 10 minutes. While it’s resting, the retained heat in the meat continues the cooking process, raising the temperature to a safe 160­°F—hopefully without drying out the meat. When cooking pork shoulder, internal temperature is not the test for doneness. Pork shoulder is fully cooked when it is fork tender, which occurs at an internal temperature of 170° to 190°F. The Jerrys Farm in Flemingsburg and Pike Valley Farm in Lawrenceburg are two sources of pasture-raised, all-natural pork. Raising pigs on grass adds value to the meat. A pastured pig does what nature intended it to do: root, dig, and run. This improves the texture and quality of the meat while providing a humane life for the pigs.

Chili Favorites Varieties of chili are as numerous as the cooks in my neighborhood. In Northern Kentucky, Cincinnati Chili remains the king; for other Kentuckians, chili isn’t chili without ground venison. Growing up in Lexington, we served our ground beef chili over a bowl of spaghetti or macaroni. No matter the type of chili, suggested toppings include shredded cheese, sour cream, chopped avocado, sliced green onions, chopped sweet or white onion, and oyster crackers, saltine crackers, or cornbread.

menu Greek Salad with Creamy Dressing Cincinnati Chili Sweet Iced Tea (page 185) Moist Carrot Sheet Cake (page 192) or Everything Cookies (page 104)

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Greek Salad with Creamy Dressing makes about 6 servings

If there was ever any doubt that Cincinnati Chili is a Greek invention, it’s erased by the presence of Greek salads on chili parlor menus. Many chili

salad 1 head romaine lettuce, cleaned and torn into bitesized pieces 1 medium cucumber, peeled, cut lengthwise in half, seeds removed, and sliced into half moons ½ small red onion, thinly sliced (about ½ cup) ½ cup kalamata olives, pitted and cut in half 2 green onions, thinly sliced

fans crave Skyline or Dixie Chili’s Greek salad dressing

dressing

as much as they do their

½ cup low-fat buttermilk ½ cup sour cream ¼ cup crumbled Feta 2 cloves garlic, minced 1 tablespoon red wine vinegar ½ teaspoon dried oregano ¼ teaspoon salt ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

chili.

For the salad, layer the lettuce, cucumber, red onion, olives, and green onion in a salad bowl. For the dressing, whisk together the buttermilk, sour cream, Feta, garlic, vinegar, oregano, salt, and pepper. Pour half the dressing over the salad and toss gently to mix. Add more dressing as needed, or serve the remaining dressing on the side.

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Cincinnati Chili makes 4 to 6 servings

The Greater Cincinnati area is known for numerous chili restaurants and a unique variety of spicy, ground beef chili seasoned and served differently from traditional chili. In 1922, Macedonian immigrant Tom Athanas Kiradjieff settled in Cincinnati and opened the Empress hot dog stand, where he sold hot dogs and Greek food. The Germans who lived in Cincinnati weren’t particularly impressed by the Greek food, so Kiradjieff re-created a traditional Mediterranean-style stew with cinnamon and cloves and added ground beef and chili powder. He served this stew over spaghetti

1 pound ground round or ground sirloin 2 cups water 1 small onion, chopped (about ½ cup) 2 cloves garlic, minced One 8-ounce can tomato sauce One 6-ounce can tomato paste 1 tablespoon vinegar 1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce 1 tablespoon chili powder 1 tablespoon cocoa powder 1 teaspoon cinnamon 1 teaspoon ground cumin ½ teaspoon allspice 2 bay leaves 1 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 12 ounces thin spaghetti, cooked 2 cups (8 ounces) finely shredded mild Cheddar 1½ cups cooked, or one 15-ounce can, red beans, optional 1 small onion, finely chopped (about ½ cup), optional

and called it chili. He sold his chili in different versions: chili over spaghetti topped with cheese (3-way), cheese and beans (4-way), or cheese, beans, and onions (5-way). He also served it on hot dogs with cheese (cheese coneys). Cincinnati-style chili has a devoted, cult-like following. This homemade recipe starts with lean ground beef simmered in water rather than browned like traditional chili.

In a large skillet, stir together the water and ground beef. Cook over medium heat, breaking up the beef and cooking until it is no longer pink, about 10 minutes. Stir in the onion, garlic, tomato sauce, tomato paste, vinegar, Worcestershire sauce, chili powder, cocoa, cinnamon, cumin, allspice, bay leaves, salt, and pepper. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat, cover, and simmer for 20 minutes. Uncover and simmer until thickened, about 10 to 15 minutes, stirring occasionally. Serve the chili over spaghetti, topped with shredded cheese (3-way). If desired, serve with red beans and cheese (4-way) or red beans, chopped onion, and cheese (5-way).

november  287

Spice Storage If spices are more than a year old, they should be replaced. Excessive heat and time dissipate the natural oils and can ruin, or at least dilute, the flavor. An admirable variety of spices can be purchased in most supermarkets. Buy small quantities, and store them in a dark, cool location.

More Chili Favorites Here are two more favorite spicy chili recipes, one vegetarian and one with ground bison or venison. Chili, like most soups and stews, is easily made ahead and is commonly believed to taste better “the second time around.”

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Smoky Chili Non Carne makes 10 servings

For a long time I was faithful to a Jane Brody vegetarian chili recipe. Her list of spices was daunting, but the chili was full of complex flavor, so I kept on making it. This recipe for a spicefilled chili is my adaptation of hers. I prefer to build the flavor rather than making the chili too hot. If more heat is desired, a shake of hot red pepper sauce or a spoon of cayenne pepper does the trick. The smoky flavor and rich red color of this chili come from the smoked paprika. Even my brotherin-law Bill, a dedicated carnivore, enjoys this meatless chili. When my sister tested it on him, he called to say

2 tablespoons olive oil 1 medium onion, chopped (about 1 cup) 4 large carrots, peeled and sliced thin 2 cloves garlic, minced 2 tablespoons mild chili powder 2 tablespoons ground cumin 2 teaspoons thyme 1 teaspoon smoked paprika ½ teaspoon ground coriander Generous pinch ground cloves Generous pinch ground allspice 1 teaspoon salt 2 tablespoons pure maple syrup or Kentucky honey ¾ cup reduced-sodium vegetable juice (one 6-ounce can) 1½ cups diced fresh tomatoes or one 15-ounce can diced tomatoes 1½ cups cooked, or one 15-ounce can, chickpeas, drained 1½ cups cooked, or one 15-ounce can, red beans, drained 1½ cups cooked, or one 15-ounce can, black beans, drained 2 cups reduced-sodium vegetable or chicken broth 3 cups cooked brown rice Chopped avocado, for garnish Sliced green onions, for garnish

the smoked paprika sealed the deal.

In a Dutch oven, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the onion and carrot and cook until the onion is soft and golden, about 10 minutes. Mix in the garlic, chili powder, cumin, thyme, smoked paprika, coriander, cloves, allspice, and salt and cook, stirring, for 1 minute. Stir in the maple syrup, vegetable juice, tomatoes, chickpeas, red beans, black beans, and broth. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat to a simmer, and cook for 30 minutes. Serve over brown rice and garnish with avocado and green onion.

november  289

Vista Grand Buffalo or Venison Chili makes about 12 servings

Vista Grand Ranch in New Richmond, Ohio, raises buffalo and is owned by my friends Cindy Cassell and David Uible. This is an adaptation of their chili recipe and tastes best when cooked slowly over low heat for several hours. Substitute ground venison for the buffalo if desired.

2 pounds ground buffalo (bison) or ground venison 1 large onion, chopped (about 2 cups) 3 cups canned whole tomatoes (one 28-ounce can) 3 cups cooked, or two 15-ounce cans, kidney beans, drained 2 cups reduced-sodium vegetable juice 2 cups ketchup 2 tablespoons chili powder 1 teaspoon garlic powder 1 teaspoon dried thyme ½ teaspoon dry mustard powder ¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper ½ teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper In a large skillet, cook the ground buffalo until no longer pink. In a Dutch oven or slow cooker, combine the remaining ingredients and add the cooked buffalo. Simmer for at least 1 hour. Serve in bowls or on baked potatoes.

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Cornbread Favorites Before refined yeast breads and rolls made their way to Kentucky tables, cornbread was the star of the breadbasket. Pioneer Kentuckians used corn to make a filling and hearty addition to any meal. Arguments abound over whether cornbread should include sugar and flour. Most southerners swear by cornbread with no sugar and little flour, whereas northernstyle cornbread often contains both and has a sweeter flavor and a more cake-like texture. Whether served alongside a bowl of soup or a bowl of chili, cornbread can take many forms: thin corncakes; short, crispy cornsticks; cornbread with chilies and cheese; and traditional cornbread with buttermilk. Ever wonder what to do with leftover cornbread? I suggest Kentucky Cornbread Strata (page 120), Cornbread and Tomato Salad (page 208), and Cornbread Dressing (page 301).

november  291

Shaker Cornsticks makes about 24 cornsticks

Shaker Village in Pleasant Hill serves mini cornsticks, about the size of a large thumb. The Lodge Cast Iron Company sells cornstick pans that aren’t mini, but

1 cup yellow or white cornmeal, preferably stone-ground ½ cup unbleached all-purpose flour 1 tablespoon sugar ½ teaspoon baking powder ½ teaspoon baking soda ½ teaspoon salt 1 cup low-fat buttermilk 1 large egg 2 tablespoons canola oil

they work just as well. This recipe was adapted from We Make You Kindly Welcome, Recipes from the Trustee House Daily Fare, Pleasant Hill, Kentucky, which offers this helpful tip: “The secret of good corn bread is beating well and using hot irons.”

Preheat the oven to 450°F. Place a seasoned cast-iron cornstick pan in the oven to preheat it. Meanwhile, in a bowl, whisk together the cornmeal, flour, sugar, baking powder, baking soda, and salt. In a separate bowl, mix together the buttermilk, egg, and oil. Stir the wet ingredients into the dry until well blended. With hot mitts on, carefully remove the cornstick pan from the oven. Fill the pan until each section is half full. Immediately return to the oven and bake for 10 to 12 minutes, or until golden brown. Cool in the pan for 5 minutes, then carefully remove the cornsticks and serve wrapped in a clean tea towel to keep them warm.

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Buttermilk Cornbread makes one 9-inch round

Stone-ground cornmeal imparts a rich flavor and a gritty texture to this dense cornbread. Preheating the skillet ensures a crisp, golden brown crust.

 

3 tablespoons canola oil, divided 1½ cups low-fat buttermilk 2 tablespoons Kentucky honey 1 large egg 2 cups yellow or white cornmeal, preferably stone-ground ¾ cup unbleached all-purpose flour 1 tablespoon baking powder ¼ teaspoon baking soda 1 teaspoon salt   Preheat the oven to 400°F. Place 1 tablespoon oil in a cast-iron skillet or 9-inch ovenproof glass baking dish. Tilt the skillet or dish to coat the sides and bottom with oil and put it in the oven to heat.   Meanwhile, beat the buttermilk, honey, the remaining 2 tablespoons canola oil, and egg together. In another bowl, whisk the cornmeal, flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt. Pour the buttermilk mixture into the cornmeal mixture and stir to make a thick batter. With hot mitts on, carefully remove the skillet or dish from the oven and quickly pour in the batter. Immediately return to the oven and bake for 25 to 30 minutes, or until the bread is golden brown around the edges and the middle is firm when touched. Serve hot with butter or a drizzle of sorghum, molasses, or honey.

november  293

Chili Cheddar Cornbread makes 1 pan

A pan of moist cornbread studded with chilies, cheese, and corn is perfect to take to a potluck dinner or serve at a chili party. Use either fresh or frozen corn kernels.

1½ cups unbleached all-purpose flour ¾ cup yellow cornmeal 1 tablespoon baking powder 1 tablespoon sugar ½ teaspoon salt 1 cup milk 1⁄3 cup canola oil 1 large egg 1 cup corn kernels One 4-ounce can chopped green chilies 1 cup (4 ounces) shredded sharp Cheddar Preheat the oven to 375°F. Spray a 13×9×2-inch pan with nonstick cooking spray. In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, cornmeal, baking powder, sugar, and salt. In another bowl, whisk together the milk, oil, and eggs. Stir the egg mixture into the flour mixture. Fold in the corn, chilies, and cheese. Spread the batter in the prepared pan and bake for about 30 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean and the edges are golden brown. Serve warm or at room temperature.

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Silver Dollar Corncakes makes twenty-four 2-inch cakes

Sometimes called Batty Cakes with Lacy Edges, these tender cornmeal cakes are quick to prepare and

1 cup yellow or white cornmeal, preferably stone-ground ½ teaspoon baking powder ½ teaspoon baking soda ½ teaspoon salt 1 cup low-fat buttermilk 1 large egg ¼ cup (½ stick) butter, melted, or ¼ cup canola oil

even quicker to disappear off the platter.

Whisk together the cornmeal, baking powder, baking soda, and salt. Meanwhile, preheat a griddle or nonstick skillet until hot. Mix together the buttermilk, egg, and melted butter or oil. Add the buttermilk mixture to the cornmeal mixture and stir to combine. Using a 1 tablespoon measuring spoon, portion the batter onto the hot griddle or skillet. Cook until bubbles open up on the surface of the cakes and the bottoms are golden brown. Flip the cakes and continue to cook until golden brown. Keep warm in a 200°F oven until ready to serve.

november  295

Fresh Turkey To me, buying a fresh (never frozen) turkey is a family tradition. In Northern Kentucky, we are fortunate to have a poultry farm right next door, so to speak. Tewes Poultry Farm, started in 1924 by John Tewes Sr., specializes in raising chickens for eggs and meat year-round, and it sells dressed, whole fresh turkeys during the holiday season. Tewes is one of the few natural turkey farms in the state of Kentucky. When shopping at a local farm for a fresh turkey, bring cash to pay for it and a large box or bag to carry it home. And ask for a pop-up timer if you’re used to cooking with one. Warren jokes that a pop-up timer means “when I pop up, throw me out,” and that’s not too far from the truth. Most pop-up timers are sensitive to a temperature of 180°F, but turkey is fully cooked at 170°F. So if the bird is removed from the oven at 180°F and continues to cook from the retained heat, the breast meat and possibly the legs and thighs will dry out.

Thanksgiving I mean no disrespect to Mr. Tom Turkey, but truth be told, side dishes make or break a Thanksgiving meal. Although turkeys garner much of the attention, revealing their glossy brown skin on the covers of epicurean magazines, there’s only so much one can do to enhance the flavor of a turkey. And let’s face it, turkey tastes pretty much the same every year. Everyone compliments the cook (which they should) on the moist white meat while secretly planning to gobble up a second helping of potatoes, cranberries, dressing, and gravy. My father loved Thanksgiving—not just the meal but the entire day. Going to morning Mass, watching parades on TV, fixing his special punch to welcome guests, eating a little bit of everything my mother cooked, and settling into his leather recliner for an afternoon of watching the Detroit Lions. No matter who visited on Thanksgiving, my father was a courteous host—even the year he was battling cancer. As Thanksgiving draws near, we need to look graciously on our Thanksgiving hosts. Even if they’ve had a tough year, I’m confident they’ll be looking forward to sharing the day with the people they love.

menu Celery stuffed with Spicy Garlic Beer Cheese (page 154) Carl’s Pendennis Club Punch Roasted Brined Turkey Cornbread or Traditional Bread Dressing Peggy’s Corn Pudding Spinach and Roasted Sweet Potato Salad with Maple-Mustard Dressing Sweet Potatoes with Pecan Topping Bourbon Cranberry Relish Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Brown Sugar Bourbon Whipped Cream Bourbon Mincemeat Pie

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Carl’s Pendennis Club Punch makes about twenty-five 4-ounce servings

I inherited my father’s cookbook collection, and this recipe was tucked in one of the bartender books. What follows is his adaptation of the Pendennis Club champagne punch made famous

Juice of 1 orange Juice of 1 lemon Juice of 1 lime ½ cup sugar 2½ cups brandy, chilled 1½ cups Triple Sec or crème de cassis, chilled Three 750-mL bottles dry or sparkling white wine, chilled Orange, lemon, or lime slices, for garnish

by Out of Kentucky Kitchens. Dad mixed a batch of this punch every Thanksgiving, sometimes for Christmas, and on other occasions when large crowds gathered in our Lexington home. It welcomed travelers and, according to my uncle Harvey, made

In a pitcher, stir together the orange juice, lemon juice, lime juice, and sugar. Mix well to dissolve the sugar, and refrigerate to chill. Pour the juice mixture into a punch bowl or other large container. Add the brandy, Triple Sec, and sparkling wine. Stir to mix. Garnish with fruit slices and serve immediately.

one’s “socks roll down around the ankles.” I prefer the punch with Triple Sec, although crème de cassis (black currant liqueur) was Dad’s favorite. Incidentally, the Pendennis Club in Louisville is a long-running social club where, according to its website, “decency, decorum, civility, good manners and the social graces are still very much in style.”

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Roasted Brined Turkey makes about 12 servings

brine

This recipe requires at least

1 gallon (4 quarts) cold water 1 cup kosher salt or ½ cup table salt

a 12-hour brine, so plan accordingly. For a fresh, un-

turkey

stuffed bird, plan to cook for

One 15-pound whole turkey, neck and giblets removed ¼ cup melted butter or olive oil 3 tablespoons fresh thyme or 1 tablespoon dried ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1 large onion, peeled and quartered 2 ribs celery 3 carrots, peeled

about 15 to 20 minutes per pound, so a 15-pound turkey would take at least 3½ hours to roast. Important signs of doneness include the correct internal temperature, juices that are clear and not pinkish-red, and loose leg and wing joints, with the flesh pulling away from the bone. Leftover turkey makes a good substitute for chicken in Chicken Pie (page 28), Dried Cherry and Pecan Chicken Salad (page 220), or White Bean and Chicken Chili (page 53).

To brine the turkey, fill a 12-quart stainless-steel, plastic, glass, or other nonreactive bowl or pan with 1 gallon water. Stir in the salt until dissolved. Place the turkey in the water. If the brine doesn’t cover the turkey, mix another gallon of brine in a separate bowl and pour it over the turkey so that the turkey is completely submerged. Refrigerate for 12 to 24 hours. To roast the turkey, preheat the oven to 400°F. Remove the turkey from the brine and pat dry. Place it in a roasting pan on a V-shaped roasting rack. Brush the outside of the turkey with the melted butter or olive oil. Sprinkle the skin with thyme and pepper. Stuff the cavity with the onion, celery, and carrots. Insert a meat thermometer in the deep part of the thigh, ensuring that the probe isn’t touching the bone. Place the turkey in the oven and roast until the internal temperature is 170°F. Remove from the oven and cover with foil. Let rest 15 minutes before carving. Refrigerate leftover meat and the turkey carcass immediately after eating.

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Brining Tips for Turkey I think the secret to a juicy bird is brining. Moisture loss is inevitable when cooking meat, poultry, fish, or shellfish because heat applied to any source of protein does three things: shrinks it, causes it to lose moisture, and makes it firm. Any meat becomes tough if it’s overcooked, but lean meats like turkey and chicken are particularly vulnerable and tend to toughen and dry out when roasted for even a few minutes past their peak doneness. Luckily, there’s a simple solution—soak the meat in a brine before cooking. To brine a turkey, use a large, nonreactive (plastic, stainless steel, or enameled) container, bucket, cooler, or roasting pan. Choose a container deep enough that the brine won’t slosh out when it’s moved to the refrigerator. For a frozen turkey, thaw it completely before brining. Supplement or replace the brine water with another liquid, such as apple cider, as a flavor enhancer. Some brines include sugar, but according to Shirley Corriher, author of CookWise, “sugar has no technical function when it comes to juiciness; salt is the key ingredient.” The brinesubmerged turkey must be refrigerated (at less than 40°F) for 12 to 24 hours. One Thanksgiving it was very cold, so we put the bird in a large plastic bucket on the back porch—freeing up space in the refrigerator. After brining, rinse the turkey under cool running water to remove any surface salt. When making gravy with the pan drippings, reduce the amount of salt called for in the recipe. Because of the brining, the pan juice is in essence “pre-salted.” Several brands of poultry are already “brined” or injected with a mixture of sodium phosphate, water, and flavorings. This treatment is stated on the label, and these turkeys should not be brined at home.

Cornbread or Traditional Bread Dressing makes 12 servings

Dressing, the perennial Thanksgiving favorite, appears on 99 percent of Thanksgiving dinner tables. I adore its herby aroma, savory flavor, and crunchy edges. There is some dispute over the nomenclature: stuffing versus dressing. All I know is when this mixture is baked inside the bird, it’s called stuffing. When it’s baked in a buttered pan to serve alongside the turkey, it’s called dressing. No matter what it’s called, the basic recipe begins with dried cornbread or other dried bread cubes. These can be seasoned with a variety of cooked vegetables or fruits,

12 cups 1-inch cubes cornbread, French bread, or firm sandwich bread 8 tablespoons (1 stick) butter, divided 1 large onion, finely chopped (about 2 cups) 3 ribs celery, thinly sliced 2 tablespoons chopped fresh sage or 2 teaspoons dried 1 tablespoon fresh thyme or 1 teaspoon dried 1½ teaspoons chopped fresh rosemary or ½ teaspoon dried 2½ cups reduced-sodium chicken broth, divided 2 large eggs, beaten, optional Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste   Preheat the oven to 325°F. Place the bread cubes in a large, shallow baking pan. Toast in the oven until dry, about 25 to 30 minutes. Set aside to cool. Meanwhile, butter a 15×11×2inch baking dish. Increase the oven temperature to 375°F. In a large skillet, melt 6 tablespoons butter over low heat. Add the onion, celery, sage, thyme, and rosemary. Cook until the celery is softened, about 10 minutes. In a large bowl, stir together the bread cubes, cooked celery and onion, 2 cups chicken broth, eggs, salt, and pepper. Place in the prepared baking dish. Drizzle the remaining ½ cup broth over the uncooked dressing. Dot the dressing with the remaining 2 tablespoons butter. Cover with foil and bake for about 40 minutes. For crunchier dressing on the top and sides, uncover during the final 10 minutes of baking.

herbs, and liquids to add moisture. Before adding

variations

the eggs, taste the dress-

Add up to 2 cups of any combination of the following ingredients to the recipe: chopped walnuts, pecans, or chestnuts; peeled and chopped pears or apples; raisins, golden raisins, or dried cherries; sautéed wild or button mushrooms; crisp crumbled bacon; cooked sausage chunks; chopped cooked turkey giblets; or fresh oysters. For an extremely decadent but flavor-packed twist, baste the dressing with ½ cup turkey pan drippings just before baking. For enhanced flavor, substitute ½ cup dry white wine for ½ cup chicken broth.

ing for the appropriate amount of herbs, salt, and pepper. The dressing can be made and refrigerated up to 1 day ahead of time, but don’t add the eggs until just before baking.  

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Peggy’s Corn Pudding makes 10 servings

My mother’s aunt Marietta recommended the addition of vanilla extract; she thought it enhanced the custard. The 2006 edition of Joy of Cooking included the vanilla in a modified

4 cups corn kernels 2 tablespoons unbleached all-purpose flour ¼ cup sugar 1½ teaspoons salt 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract 4 large eggs 1½ cups milk ¼ cup (½ stick) butter, melted

version of this recipe, based on my recommendation. This recipe can be mixed a day ahead of time, but it should be baked just before serving. The corn can be fresh ( from 8 ears), frozen, or canned (drained) kernels. If desired, substitute 1 cup creamed corn for 1 cup corn kernels.

Preheat the oven to 325°F. Spray a 13×9×2-inch baking dish with nonstick cooking spray. Mix together the corn, flour, sugar, salt, vanilla, eggs, and milk. Stir in the melted butter. Pour into the prepared pan and bake for 55 to 60 minutes, until set around the edges and soft in the middle. For a softer pudding, place the filled baking dish in a water bath (below) and bake for 60 to 70 minutes.

Making a Water Bath A water bath is similar to a double boiler, but it is used in the oven instead of on the stovetop. Visualize a small pan (or pans) of food sitting in a larger pan of hot water during baking. It is an excellent way to keep a corn pudding soft or to bake individual cups of custard or bread pudding. The hot water insulates the sides of the custard or pudding from the heat of the oven and keeps them soft. To set up a water bath, select a roasting pan large enough to hold the baking dish (or dishes) described in the recipe. Preheat the oven as directed, and have boiling water ready. Pull out the oven rack and place the roasting pan on the rack. Set the baking dish (or dishes) filled with the custard or pudding inside the roasting pan. Carefully pour the boiling water into the pan, filling it until the water is halfway up the sides of the dish(es). Gently push the rack into the oven and bake for the designated time. When baking is complete, with oven mitts on, carefully remove the baking dish from the water. Let the water cool before attempting to remove the pan from the oven.

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Spinach and Roasted Sweet Potato Salad with Maple-Mustard Dressing makes 8 servings

I like a fresh salad on the Thanksgiving table, and this one combines the sweetness of oven-roasted sweet potatoes with the bite of fresh spinach. Pecans are more southern, but toasted

salad 4 medium sweet potatoes (about 2 pounds) scrubbed and cut into ½-inch chunks 1 large red onion, cut into ½-inch chunks 2 tablespoons olive oil ¼ teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 5 ounces fresh spinach leaves (about 4 cups) ½ cup chopped pecans, toasted

hulled pumpkin seeds are a crunchy seasonal

dressing

substitute.

1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar 1 tablespoon pure maple syrup or Kentucky honey 1 tablespoon coarse-grain mustard ¼ teaspoon salt ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 3 tablespoons olive oil Preheat the oven to 400°F. Place the sweet potato and onion on a large rimmed baking sheet. Drizzle with 2 tablespoons olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Toss to coat the potatoes with the oil and seasoning. Bake on a lower oven rack for 35 to 40 minutes, or until the potatoes are golden and tender.   Meanwhile, for the dressing, combine the vinegar, maple syrup, mustard, salt, and pepper. Whisk in 3 tablespoons olive oil until the dressing is thick. On a large platter or in a large, shallow bowl, layer the spinach and sweet potatoes. Drizzle with dressing and scatter the pecans over the top.

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Sweet Potatoes with Pecan Topping makes about 12 servings

This recipe is adapted from one my sister-in-law Lori gave me. Her husband Sam loves these potatoes, and if you love vanilla as much as he does, you can substi-

7 to 8 medium-sized sweet potatoes (about 5 pounds) ½ cup light brown sugar ½ cup milk 3 large eggs 2 tablespoons Kentucky bourbon ¼ cup (½ stick) butter, melted 1 teaspoon cinnamon 1 teaspoon salt

tute vanilla extract for the bourbon. I prefer to bake

topping

the potatoes in their skins

¼ cup (½ stick) butter, melted ½ cup light brown sugar 1⁄3 cup unbleached all-purpose flour 1 cup chopped pecans

to enhance their naturally sweet flavor and to keep them from getting waterlogged during boiling. The potatoes can be baked a day ahead, if desired, to free up the oven for the Thanksgiving turkey.

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Place the sweet potatoes on a rimmed baking sheet. Bake until tender when poked with a fork, about 1 hour 20 minutes. Let the potatoes cool to the touch.   Meanwhile, spray a 13×9×2-inch baking dish with nonstick cooking spray. In a bowl, mix the ingredients for the topping: melted butter, brown sugar, flour, and pecans. Set aside. When the potatoes are cool, scrape the flesh out of the skins into a bowl. There should be about 8 cups of sweet potato pulp. With an electric mixer, beat in the brown sugar, milk, eggs, bourbon, melted butter, cinnamon, and salt. Spread in the prepared baking dish. Sprinkle with the pecan topping. Bake for about 35 to 40 minutes, or until hot throughout and bubbly around the edges.

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Bourbon Cranberry Relish makes about 2 cups

A little bit of cranberry sauce goes a long way, and it’s traditional served along-

One 12-ounce bag fresh cranberries ¾ cup sugar Zest and juice from 2 navel oranges ¼ cup Kentucky bourbon Pinch salt

side slices of roasted turkey. Cranberries don’t grow in Kentucky, but they are a true seasonal American fruit, just like Concord grapes (page 256). To savor

In a saucepan, stir together all the ingredients. Place over medium heat and bring to a boil. Stir until the sugar dissolves. Reduce the heat and simmer until the cranberries burst, stirring occasionally, about 15 minutes. Remove from the heat and cool. Chill before serving.

cranberries deep into the wintertime, freeze bags of whole fresh cranberries.

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Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Brown Sugar Bourbon Whipped Cream makes one 9-inch pie

On Thanksgiving evening our family gathers around the flat screen to watch David Letterman talk via satellite to his mother in her Indiana kitchen. During this sweet exchange between mother and son, David guesses what kind of pie

1 All-Butter Pie Crust (page 90) 1½ cups fresh, or one 15-ounce can, pumpkin puree 1¼ cups heavy cream or evaporated milk ½ cup light brown sugar 2 large eggs 2 tablespoons Kentucky bourbon 1 teaspoon ground ginger 1 teaspoon cinnamon ½ teaspoon allspice ½ teaspoon salt Brown Sugar Bourbon Whipped Cream (page 69)

she baked for Thanksgiving. I’ve heard him guess everything from strawberry to pecan, but I don’t understand why he rarely guesses pumpkin. To me, it’s not Thanksgiving without pumpkin pie.

Preheat the oven to 425°F. Line a 9-inch glass pie plate with the All-Butter Pie Crust and refrigerate. In a bowl, mix the pumpkin puree, cream or evaporated milk, brown sugar, eggs, bourbon, ginger, cinnamon, allspice, and salt. Place the pie plate with the crust on a rimmed baking sheet. Pour the pumpkin mixture into the prepared pie shell. Bake for 15 minutes. Reduce the temperature to 350°F and bake for about 40 more minutes, or until the filling no longer jiggles in the middle when the pan is gently moved back and forth. Cool the pie on a rack and refrigerate until ready to serve. Top with Brown Sugar Bourbon Whipped Cream.

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Bourbon Mincemeat Pie makes one-9-inch pie

My mother’s mincemeat recipe begins with a box of None Such condensed mincemeat, along with

Double recipe All-Butter Pie Crust (page 90) One 9-ounce box condensed mincemeat 1¼ cups water 4 apples, peeled and chopped 1 cup raisins ¼ cup Kentucky bourbon

some fresh additions. If it’s not available in the baking section of the supermarket, None Such can be ordered online.

In a saucepan, mix the condensed mincemeat and water. Bring to a boil and add the apples, raisins, and bourbon. Cook for 10 minutes until thickened. Remove from the heat and cool to room temperature.   Preheat the oven to 425°F. Divide the refrigerated pie dough into two equal pieces. On a lightly floured surface, roll one piece of the dough into an 11-inch circle and gently place into a 9-inch pie pan. Pour the cooled filling into the pie shell. Roll the second piece of dough into an 11-inch circle and place over the filling. With a small, sharp knife, trim the top layer of dough to form a 1-inch overhang all the way around, and fold and press the edges together to make a thick rim. To flute the edge, use the index finger of one hand to push the dough between the thumb and index finger of the other hand, forming U-shaped indentations about 1 inch apart around the entire edge. With a sharp knife, cut about 6 vents in the top crust. Place on a baking sheet and bake for 40 to 45 minutes, or until the filling bubbles and the crust is golden brown.

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December From December to March, there are for many of us three gardens—the garden outdoors,  the garden of pots and bowls in the house, and the garden of the mind’s eye. —katherine s. white  

With short, cold days and dark, starlit nights, Kentucky often experiences its first significant snowfall in December—a month filled with activities, sights, sounds, excursions, and family. When I smell fresh pine roping and see twinkling lights, I know the longest night of the year is passing, and I spend the first day of winter with a cup of tea in hand. Unlike shopping malls, where the Christmas season starts as soon as (or sometimes before) the Halloween decorations come down, my kitchen is insulated from the pressure to celebrate Christmas earlier and earlier each year—thanks in part to the cooking that takes place in November. Also, we have a family birthday in December, so as a rule, we don’t start decorating for Christmas until after that celebration. And we don’t actually start to celebrate Christmas until Christmas Eve, with the week between Christmas and New Year’s Day one of my favorites of the year. Every December we make the trek up I-75 to Jungle Jim’s Market. Jungle Jim’s is worth the drive for cooks and noncooks alike. It’s a 300,000-square-foot food extravaganza in Fairfield, Ohio, with over 150,000 different food items from more than seventy-five countries. For weeks in advance we anticipate the trip, even the early-morning departure. The

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kids hop out of bed as if we’re leaving on vacation—much more quickly than they get up for school. At Jungle Jim’s we stock up on food for the holidays, buying local ground buffalo (bison) for Christmas Eve burgers, a Kentucky Legend ham for afternoon sandwiches, gingerbread cookies to accompany a cup of tea, and an assortment of olives, cheeses, and breads. We marvel at the fresh hog heads, skinny chicken feet, hodgepodge of exotic fruit, and shelf after shelf of hot sauce with about every peppery name in the book. We find ourselves mumbling, “Who eats all this stuff?” Whether it’s baking cookies to give as gifts or driving nearly an hour to an unusual grocery store, maintaining an annual Christmas tradition is worth the time and effort. It’s a way of marking the start of the holiday season and the changes in food that take place this time of year. It’s a time to celebrate the hams, black walnuts, cookies, candy, and cakes of Christmastime. In the wintertime, from December to March, outdoor gardens in Kentucky are generally dead, and very little fresh produce is grown outdoors. Some farmers and gardeners use cold frames or greenhouses, or they bury root vegetables in a thick layer of dirt or compost to keep them producing, but unless it’s preserved in a pantry, freezer, or root cellar, local Kentucky-grown produce won’t be around for the next several months. Despite the lack of growth, we don’t stop cooking with fruits and vegetables in the wintertime. I buy produce from as close to Kentucky as possible, use long-storing fall fruits and vegetables or frozen vegetables from the United States, and purchase whatever fresh organic produce is available, using the Environmental Working Group’s criteria (see page 10).

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Good Morning Food Here I offer two recipes for what is arguably the most popular quick bread of the Kentucky breadbasket, next to cornbread, of course: biscuits. Hot from the oven, biscuits fill that spot on our plates whether served at breakfast, lunch, or supper. They even blur the lines with dessert when served with preserves or honey. And when the dough is sweetened and split open, a biscuit becomes a shortcake—a carrier for fresh fruit and cream. Biscuits also make delicate sandwiches filled with ham or turkey.

Soft Buttermilk Biscuits makes about fifteen 2-inch or ten 3-inch biscuits

These biscuits can be served warm with butter,

6 tablespoons (¾ stick) butter 2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour 2 teaspoons baking powder ¼ teaspoon baking soda ½ teaspoon salt 1 cup low-fat buttermilk

Kentucky honey, Homemade Strawberry Freezer Jam (page 150), Oven-Baked Pumpkin Butter (page 255), or Concord Grape Preserves (page 256). They can also be part of a dinner menu or used to surround a thick slice of city or country ham.

Preheat the oven to 450°F. Place the butter in the freezer to chill. Meanwhile, whisk together the flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt. Using the large holes of a box grater, grate the chilled butter into the flour. Gently mix the butter and flour with your hands to coat the butter and break up any large particles. Stir in the buttermilk to form a soft, moist dough. Avoid overstirring, or the biscuits may be tough. Turn the dough onto a floured surface and sprinkle the top with flour. Pat or roll the dough out to about ½ inch thick. Cut into rounds with a biscuit cutter or small juice glass dipped in flour. Place the biscuits in an 11×7×1-inch baking pan. For soft biscuits, let the edges touch; for crusty biscuits, leave space in between. Bake for 15 to 18 minutes, until golden brown.

variation: Cornmeal Biscuits Reduce the flour to 1¾ cups and add ¼ cup stone-ground white or yellow cornmeal.

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Cream Biscuits makes about 16 biscuits

Cake flour, which has a lower protein content than all-purpose flour, helps keep these biscuits tender and light. Whipping the cream

3 cups cake flour 1 cup unbleached all-purpose flour ½ cup sugar 2 tablespoons baking powder 2 teaspoons salt 1 cup heavy or whipping cream Sugar, for sprinkling

also adds more air and more fluff.

Preheat the oven to 425°F. Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper. Whisk together the flours, sugar, baking powder, and salt. With an electric mixer, beat the cream until stiff. Sift the flour mixture over the whipped cream and mix gently but thoroughly. With lightly floured hands, shape lemon-sized pieces of dough into round biscuits and place them on the parchment. Sprinkle with sugar. Bake about 15 to 17 minutes, or until the bottoms are lightly browned. Serve hot.

variation: Cream Biscuits with Fruit Split open a cooled biscuit and cover the bottom with Sour Cream Whipped Cream (page 242). Spoon sugared peaches, sliced strawberries, or roasted bananas over the cream, and top with the other half of the biscuit.

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Eileen and Cocoa Whenever my aunt Eileen and I get together, we love to talk. A few years ago at a baby shower for my sister Mary, it wasn’t long before our conversation turned to a discussion of Eileen’s recipe collection. She owns the infamous red- and white-checkered Better Homes and Gardens Cookbook. It sits on her kitchen shelf functioning not only as a recipe book but also as her personal recipe filing system. For the past forty years, whenever Eileen receives recipes from friends or clips recipes from the newspaper, she stores them among the pages of her cookbook. Her splayed open cookbook, tucked full of cards and clippings, works well for her. To this day, Eileen still clips recipes and food-related newspaper and magazines articles and saves them for me. I read everything she gives me, and then I sort the unique recipes into my own filing system—a large notebook. Eileen grew up during the Depression. Her mother (my grandmother) was thrifty and resourceful, and from what I can gather, she had a knack for making do with what they had. “Every winter morning,” Eileen once told me, “Mother made us hot cocoa and homemade biscuits for breakfast, to warm us up before we headed out in the cold to go to school.” Several years ago, buried in my stack of clippings from Eileen, I found a recipe for hot cocoa she had laminated. I suspect she chose to laminate this particular one because it invoked memories of her childhood, her mother, their kitchen, and the warmth of hot cocoa on a cold winter morning. Now this hot cocoa recipe is tucked safely in my notebook. Beginning in December, I whip up batches of homemade hot cocoa just like my grandmother did. My children, like Eileen, sip hot cocoa before they leave for school. And of course, hot cocoa is the requisite grand finale to a romp in the snow.

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Christmas Caroling Cocoa Party My sister-in-law Tara has been known to organize neighborhood Christmas caroling parties. It’s an inexpensive and festive way for adults and kids to spend time together during the Christmas season, sharing holiday cheer with anyone brave enough to answer the door. When they finish, the group gathers for cookies and hot cocoa to warm up. Here are a few tips for a party when hot cocoa is the star of the show. • Set out bowls of cocoa stir-ins: miniature marshmallows, sweetened whipped cream, crushed peppermint candies, crumbled toffee candy bars, chocolate curls, cinnamon, chopped almonds or hazelnuts, or instant coffee granules. • Provide long candy canes or cinnamon sticks to stir the cocoa. • For adults, enhance the brew with a splash of bourbon, whiskey cream liqueur, amaretto, coffee liqueur, peppermint schnapps, espresso, or an assortment of flavored coffee creamers. • If hot cocoa doesn’t appeal to the adults at your party, serve eggnog spiked with Kentucky bourbon or spiced rum. Trauth eggnog, made in Newport at the Louis Trauth Dairy, is as fresh as it gets, short of mixing a homemade batch. This pale yellow mixture of fresh milk, cream, eggs, and nutmeg is like Christmas in a jug. A little bit goes a long way and makes decorating the Christmas tree a good time, especially with some Kentucky bourbon stirred in.

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Whipped Hot Chocolate makes 6 servings

A splash of bourbon, coffee liqueur, or whiskey cream liqueur turns this kid-friendly drink into a grown-up beverage suitable

4 cups milk 1 cup heavy cream ¼ teaspoon pure vanilla extract 1⁄8 teaspoon ground cinnamon 8 ounces bittersweet chocolate, chopped, or 8 ounces semisweet chocolate chips Pinch salt

for football games or neighborhood bonfires or after a walk in the snow.

In a saucepan, heat the milk, cream, vanilla, and cinnamon until steaming. Turn off the heat and add the chocolate and salt. Whisk until the chocolate melts. Reheat gently over very low heat if necessary. Pour into mugs and top with sweetened whipped cream if desired.

Café Mocha Mix makes about 10 cups of mix

A hot mocha from the local coffee shop is a treat, but indulging too often can be costly. So, to save time,

10 ounces powdered nondairy creamer 10 ounces Nestlé Nesquik chocolate powder 1 cup powdered sugar 4 cups (about 12 ounces) nonfat dry milk powder ½ cup unsweetened cocoa powder ½ cup instant espresso powder 1 teaspoon cinnamon

money, and gas, I make a comparable mocha mix to blend with either hot coffee for a homemade mocha or hot water for a spicy hot cocoa.

Combine all the ingredients and store in airtight containers or gallon-size zip-top bags. To mix, place 3 heaping tablespoons in a large mug. Pour in hot coffee or hot water. Stir well to blend. Top with fresh whipped cream and a drizzle of chocolate syrup.

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Country Ham Country ham—salt- and/or sugar-cured and then smoked—is a Kentucky tradition. Every year my mom and dad cooked a Kentucky country ham for our Christmas buffet to accompany the rolls or biscuits and be a foil for the sweet cookies, jam cakes, and bourbon balls on the dessert table. A few weeks before Christmas they’d soak the ham in a large metal can bought specifically for that purpose. Then they boiled, baked, and sliced it—evaluating how well the ham sliced that year. Mom continues the country ham tradition today. In Kentucky we don’t have to go to great lengths to buy a whole country ham. They are sold in the meat departments of most local supermarkets. They come packed in cloth or a cotton bag and might be hanging from a nail or hook outside the refrigerator, unlike the city hams that huddle in the refrigerated meat case. If a whole ham is too much to handle, slices of country ham are also available. There are numerous choices: Newsome’s Aged Country Ham, Keene Country Hams, Broadbent Hams, Scott Hams, Father’s Country Hams, and Johnson’s Country Hams. For more ham fun, don’t forget the Trigg County Country Ham Festival in Cadiz every October.

Christmas Dinner Kentucky Style I’ve lived outside of Kentucky for only about four years of my life. I lived in Baltimore for one year during my first stint as a dietitian, and after Warren and I were married we moved to Michigan, where we lived for three years. In Baltimore I ate blue crabs and explored the Chesapeake Bay, and in Michigan we bicycled on the flat farm roads surrounding our town and cross-country skied in the winter. Every year on the drive home to Kentucky for Christmas, I enjoyed the sights and sounds of Fort Mitchell— our first stop in Kentucky after crossing the Ohio River—where we visited my greatgrandmother and her niece. From the tall, tree-shaped lights on the Drees Building to the decorated front porch at the Greyhound Grill, my heart knew I was back in Kentucky—I was home.

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menu Roasted Tenderloin of Beef Lemon Parmesan Beans (page 206 ) White Cheddar Grits Linen-Napkin Dinner Rolls (page 111) Endive and Pear Salad with Walnuts Kentucky Blackberry Jam Cake or Black Walnut Sheet Cake

Roasted Tenderloin of Beef makes about 8 servings

Seasoned and roasted beef tenderloin is a foolproof way to feed Christmas guests. Naturally tender and not too rich, beef tenderloin is hard to mess up. Have the butcher trim the tenderloin and save the scraps, which are good

One 3- to 4-pound whole beef tenderloin, trimmed 2 cloves garlic, minced Zest from 1 lemon 1 tablespoon olive oil 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard 1 tablespoon light brown sugar 1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce 1 tablespoon minced fresh rosemary or 1 teaspoon dried 1 tablespoon minced fresh thyme or 1 teaspoon dried 1 teaspoon kosher salt 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

enough to use in a stir-fry dish or for beef stew.

Preheat the oven to 450°F. Place the beef on a rack in a shallow roasting pan. In a small bowl, combine the garlic, lemon zest, oil, mustard, brown sugar, Worcestershire sauce, rosemary, thyme, salt, and pepper. Rub the mixture over the surface of the beef. Let stand for 30 minutes. Place the beef in the bottom third of the oven, reduce the temperature to 400°F, and roast for about 30 to 40 minutes, or until a thermometer inserted in the center registers 120­­°F for medium-rare or 130­­°F for medium. Remove the meat from the oven and let it rest for 15 minutes before slicing.

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White Cheddar Grits makes 8 servings

This recipe offers an alternative to traditional yellow Cheddar grits and was inspired by Alfalfa’s Restaurant in Lexington, where white Cheddar is shredded on top of the grits.

4 cups water ¾ teaspoon salt 1 cup quick or stone-ground grits ½ cup (1 stick) butter, cut into thick slices 2 cups (8 ounces) grated sharp white Cheddar 2 large eggs, lightly beaten 2 cloves garlic, minced Cayenne pepper, to taste   Preheat the oven to 350°F. Spray a 2½-quart baking dish with nonstick cooking spray. In a saucepan, bring the water and salt to a boil. Gradually whisk the grits into the boiling water. Cook until all the water is absorbed and the grits are thick, about 5 to 10 minutes. Stir in the butter a little at a time. Then stir in the shredded cheese, eggs, garlic, and cayenne pepper. Pour into the prepared dish and bake for about 1 hour 15 minutes, or until the grits are cooked throughout.

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Endive and Pear Salad with Walnuts makes 8 servings

The bitter flavor and crunchy texture of endive, a pale, tightly bundled salad

salad 4 heads Belgian endive, sliced 4 pears, cored and sliced ½ cup chopped walnuts, toasted 1 ounce Parmesan, shaved

green, suit the winter and pair well with fresh pears

dressing

and walnuts. To enhance

Juice of 2 lemons 2 tablespoons Kentucky honey 2 teaspoons dark sesame seed oil ¼ teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 6 tablespoons olive oil

the nuttiness of the dressing, I add a dab of dark sesame seed oil.

Remove the dark outer leaves from the endive, and slice off the stem end. Cut the endive in half lengthwise and slice into long, thin strips. Arrange the endive strips on a platter. For the dressing, mix the lemon juice, honey, sesame oil, salt, and pepper in a bowl. Whisk in the olive oil until thickened. Toss the sliced pears in the dressing and arrange them on top of the endive. Sprinkle with walnuts and shaved Parmesan. Drizzle with more dressing and serve additional dressing on the side.

Mixing a Cake I’ve learned from my friend Shirley Corriher, author of BakeWise, that the most important step when mixing a cake is thoroughly combining the sugar and butter. This is where tiny air bubbles that lighten the batter are created. These bubbles are then expanded by the leavening action of baking powder and baking soda, making the cake light and fluffy. For most cakes, I beat the butter and sugar together for at least 5 minutes.

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Kentucky Blackberry Jam Cake makes one 10-inch tube cake

This cake, adapted from a recipe I found in my grandmother’s recipe box, is baked at a low temperature so the edges won’t get too brown.

1 cup (2 sticks) butter 2 cups sugar 4 large eggs One 18-ounce jar seedless blackberry jam (about 1¾ cups) 4 cups unbleached all-purpose flour ½ teaspoon baking soda 2 teaspoons cinnamon 1 teaspoon ground cloves 1 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg ½ teaspoon salt ½ cup low-fat buttermilk 1 cup chopped black walnuts Soft Caramel Icing (page 194) Preheat the oven to 300°F. Spray a 10-inch tube pan with nonstick cooking spray with flour. With an electric mixer, cream the butter and sugar for at least 5 minutes, until light and fluffy. Add the eggs one at a time, beating well after each addition. Mix in the jam. Whisk together the flour, baking soda, cinnamon, cloves, nutmeg, and salt. Add the flour mixture alternately with the buttermilk to the butter mixture, beginning and ending with flour. Stir in the walnuts. Pour the batter into the prepared pan. Bake for about 1 hour 50 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean. Cool in the pan for 15 minutes. Run a thin knife around the outside edge of the cake and around the tube in the center to loosen the cake. Cover the pan with a plate and invert to remove the cake from the pan. Frost with Soft Caramel Icing when completely cool.

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Black Walnuts Growing up in Central Kentucky, black walnuts were a part of my childhood. My memories include driving over the green, tennis ball–sized hulls lying in the road and attempting to crack the extremely hard, thick shells with a hammer while kneeling on my grandmother’s concrete stoop. The hulls stained my fingers black, but if all went well, Mamaw would use the nuts in a cake. Then we’d concoct some sort of craft project out of the empty walnut shells. When cracked just right, the shell resembles the face of an owl. Warren spent a large part of his childhood and teenage years on Domino Stud Farm in the north part of Lexington, where his father Henry was the maintenance manager. There, the black walnuts fell from the trees into the grassy fields and along the fencerows. He remembers participating in the black walnut harvest as well. In the fall, the entire Green family—his brothers Wayne and Mike, his sister Lori, and his mother—collected black walnuts by the garbage bag–full. Then they loaded the nuts into Henry’s pickup truck and delivered them to a feed store in Versailles, where they were paid “a penny per ton.” Later, Henry took them out for pizza with the money they had earned. The American black walnut tree is native to thirty-two states in the central and eastern United States, including Kentucky. And because the walnuts grow wild, it’s not uncommon for Kentuckians to harvest them from pastures, lawns, and fields. The flavor of black walnuts is strong and distinct, setting them apart from the more widely known English walnut. The bold flavor has long been a staple in Kentucky recipes, particularly during the Christmas season in jam cakes, fudge, and black walnut cakes. They are a unique addition to everything from appetizers to desserts and can be substituted for their milder English cousins in recipes. Sold shelled in most supermarkets, black walnuts stay fresher when stored in the freezer. Kentuckians continue to participate in the black walnut harvest. Hammons Products Company sponsors hulling stations in several states, including Kentucky. As of this writing, there are no black walnut festivals in Kentucky.

Black Walnut Sheet Cake makes one 13×9×2-inch sheet cake

This very close relative of Italian Cream Sheet Cake (page 112) is a holiday tradition.

1 cup (2 sticks) butter 2 cups sugar 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract 5 large eggs 2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour 1 teaspoon baking soda 1 cup low-fat buttermilk 1 cup shredded coconut, optional 1 cup chopped black walnuts Bourbon Walnut Cream Cheese Frosting, using black walnuts (page 193) Preheat the oven to 350°F. Spray a 13×9×2-inch pan with nonstick cooking spray with flour. With an electric mixer, beat the butter until light and fluffy, about 3 minutes. Add the sugar and beat for 5 minutes. Add the eggs one at a time and beat well. Combine the flour and baking soda in a small bowl. Add to the creamed mixture alternately with the buttermilk, beginning and ending with flour. Stir in the coconut and walnuts. Pour the batter into the prepared pan. Bake for 45 to 50 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean. Cool in the pan. Frost with Vanilla Bean Cream Cheese Frosting.

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Nibbles from the Kitchen The Christmas season is an ideal time to have extra nibbles on hand for snacking or to give as homemade gifts.

kentucky tea basket Fill a decorative basket or gift bag with herbal, green, or black Elmwood Inn teas, a jar of Kentucky honey, some Shortbread Cutouts (page 327), or Tiny Fruitcake Cookies (page 330). Add a tea infuser and a porcelain mug.

homemade bread and jam Bake a loaf of whole-grain bread, and pack it in a basket with linen or cotton tea towels, a container of Oven-Baked Pumpkin Butter (page 255), or Homemade Strawberry Freezer Jam (page 150).

hot cocoa kit Pack a portion of Café Mocha Mix (page 314) in a decorative tin with a measuring scoop. Include two stoneware mugs, some Shortbread Cutouts (page 327), or a pack of Crunchy Pecan Granola (page 171).

snacks in tins If you’re so inspired, pack any of these nibbles in reusable tins to give as gifts to teachers or friends: Spicy Cheese Wafers Brown Sugar Spiced Nuts Kentucky Kettle Corn Margaret’s Bourbon Balls (page 328) Buckeyes (page 329)

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Spicy Cheese Wafers makes about 3 dozen wafers

Also called cheese straws, this traditional Kentucky snack provides a welcome

½ cup (1 stick) butter, softened 2 cups (8 ounces) shredded extra-sharp Cheddar 1 cup unbleached all-purpose flour ½ teaspoon salt ¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper, optional Kosher salt, for garnish

break from sweet candy and cookies. Enjoy with a mixed drink, a cold beer, or a chilled glass of Kentucky white wine.

Preheat the oven to 375°F. Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper. With an electric mixer, blend the butter and cheese until well mixed. In another bowl, whisk together the flour, salt, and cayenne. With the mixer, blend the flour mixture into the butter and cheese. Shape into 1-inch balls, or scoop the dough with a #100 scoop. Flatten each wafer by pressing a crisscross pattern across the top of the dough ball with a fork. Sprinkle with kosher salt and, if desired, cayenne pepper. Bake for about 12 minutes, or until just starting to brown around the edges.

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Brown Sugar Spiced Nuts makes 1½ pounds

Cayenne pepper adds a bit of spice, so increase or decrease the quantity to suit your personal taste.

2 egg whites 1½ teaspoons salt ½ cup brown sugar 2 tablespoons smoked or sweet paprika 1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce ¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper 8 ounces whole almonds (1½ cups) 12 ounces pecan halves (3 cups) 12 ounces walnut halves (3 cups) 4 tablespoons (¼ cup) butter, melted and cooled Preheat the oven to 325°F. Spray a rimmed baking sheet with nonstick cooking spray. With an electric mixer, beat the egg whites and salt until very foamy. Gradually beat in the brown sugar until soft peaks form. Fold in the paprika, Worcestershire sauce, and cayenne. Fold in the nuts and melted butter to coat the nuts well. Spread in a single layer on the prepared baking sheet. Bake for 30 to 40 minutes until crisp and golden, stirring every 10 minutes. Using a spatula, immediately remove the nuts from the pan and place on foil to cool. When cool, break into clusters or into individual nuts. Store in an airtight container.

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Kentucky Kettle Corn makes about 6 cups popped corn

I prefer the simplicity of stove-

3 tablespoons peanut oil ½ cup popcorn kernels ¼ teaspoon salt, or salt to taste 2 tablespoons butter, melted

popped popcorn, and at our house, the best male cook I know pops the corn using peanut oil and an old Paul Revere saucepan. For a party, pop several batches ahead of time and keep it in a large paper grocery sack with the top folded down for

In a saucepan with a heavy bottom, heat the oil over medium-low heat. Add 4 popcorn kernels and put the lid on the pan. When those kernels pop, add the rest of the popcorn and cover. Listen as the kernels pop, and remove from the heat when the popping stops. Pour the popped corn into a large bowl. Toss with salt and melted butter.

up to 12 hours. Fill bowls or paper cones just before the party starts. For locally grown popping corn, contact Salamander Springs Farm near Berea.

Sweet Things The Christmas season conjures up visions of decorated sugar cookies shaped like Christmas trees, reindeer, stars, and snowflakes. When I imagine eating these luscious cookies, they have an audible snap and a buttery flavor, and ideally, they are served with a cup of hot tea, cocoa, or coffee. A plain cookie comes come to life when adorned with edible decorations. When I visit a specialty bakery or browse through a baking catalog, I’m intrigued by the vast array of coloring pastes, edible sugar charms, colored sprinkles, tinted sugars, rainbow jimmies, nonpareils, dragées, and finely piped icing adorning the cookies. I consider the ability to make attractive cutout cookies an art and a gift to those who eat them. Recipes for cutout sugar cookies abound, and they can yield anything from a soft, thick cookie to a thin, crispy wafer. In preparation for the holidays, I share a favorite shortbread recipe, ideal for making decorated cutout cookies.

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Cookie Gifting Tips Bake cookies ahead of time and freeze them without decorations in a heavy-duty zip-top bag. Thaw the cookies and decorate them close to the time of gift giving. Wrap the cookies individually in plastic wrap, or arrange them on a decorative platter. Wrap the platter in cellophane and tie it with a holiday bow to rival anything store-bought.

Shortbread Cutouts makes about twenty-four 3-inch cookies

Shortbread dough is ideal for cutout cookies. Start

1½ cup (3 sticks) butter ¾ cup sugar 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract ¼ teaspoon salt 4½ cups unbleached all-purpose flour

with butter straight from the refrigerator and let the electric mixer soften it. The dough will be on the cool side, allowing you to forgo chilling the dough before rolling it. Roll between two sheets of wax paper instead of in flour to avoid toughening the dough.

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Line rimmed baking sheets with parchment paper. With an electric mixer, beat the butter until soft and fluffy. Add the sugar, vanilla, and salt and continue beating until light and fluffy. Be sure to scrape down the sides of the bowl several times to ensure that the sugar and butter are well incorporated. Mix in the flour just until the dough forms large chunks that stick together when pressed. Place the dough on a sheet of wax paper, place another sheet of wax paper on top of the dough, and press down. Roll out to ¼-inch thickness. Select your cookie cutters and start cutting the dough near the outside edge. To maximize the number of cuts, keep them close together and work toward the center. Save all the dough trimmings to roll out and cut again. Typically, the second-cut cookies are less tender than the first-cut cookies. Place the cut cookies on the prepared baking sheets. Bake for 18 to 20 minutes, until lightly browned just around the edges. Cool completely before decorating.

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Margaret’s Bourbon Balls makes about 42 balls

Bourbon balls are the Christmas treat of Kentucky, combining the state’s favorite distilled spirit, sugar, and high-quality chocolate. This is the type of candy my

1 cup finely chopped pecans 5 tablespoons Kentucky bourbon ½ cup (1 stick) butter, softened 4 cups (about 1 pound) powdered sugar 1½ pounds semisweet chocolate, chopped, or two 12-ounce bags (4 cups) semisweet chocolate chips 4 tablespoons (¼ cup) shortening 42 pecan halves

dad would attempt to hide from his eight children, but unbeknownst to him, we knew all his secret hiding places. The cookbook To Market to Market advises, “These are to be eaten when the Christmas season starts getting to you.” I couldn’t agree more.

In a small bowl, combine the chopped pecans and bourbon. Cover and soak for at least 1 hour or overnight. Line a rimmed baking sheet with wax paper, parchment paper, or aluminum foil. With an electric mixer, blend the butter and sugar. Be patient here; it takes a while for the mixture to come together. Add the nuts and bourbon and mix well. Use a small scoop (#100) or a teaspoon to shape the mixture into 1½-inch balls and place on the prepared baking sheet. If the mixture is too soft, mix in more sugar. Refrigerate for at least 1 hour.   Meanwhile, place the chocolate chips and shortening in the top of a double boiler over gently boiling water. Stir until the chocolate and shortening are melted and well blended. Turn the heat off to avoid overheating the chocolate. Use a toothpick to dip the cold sugar balls into the chocolate, covering completely. Return the balls to the baking sheet. Press a pecan half on the top of each, and let the chocolate dry. Pack in an airtight container with wax paper separating the layers. Store refrigerated.

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Buckeyes makes about 4 dozen

In terms of Christmas treats, Buckeyes are to Ohio what bourbon balls are to Kentucky. As anyone who

1 cup peanut butter ½ cup (1 stick) salted butter, softened 3 cups powdered sugar One 12-ounce package (2 cups) semisweet chocolate chips 2 tablespoons shortening

lives in Northern Kentucky can attest, the line between Kentucky and Ohio can be a bit blurred if one is willing to drive across the Ohio River. Like a bourbon ball, this peanut butter candy is dipped in chocolate, but the top of the ball is left exposed to create the appearance of a buckeye. My grandmother would have dipped the whole ball in chocolate and renamed this recipe Peanut Butter Balls.

Line a rimmed baking sheet with wax paper, parchment paper, or aluminum foil. With an electric mixer, mix the peanut butter, butter, and sugar until smooth. At first the mixture might look crumbly, but keep mixing. Test a small portion—you should be able to shape it into a ball. With a small (#100) scoop or a teaspoon, shape the dough into small balls about the size of buckeyes, or large shooting marbles. Place the balls on the prepared baking sheet. Refrigerate or freeze for at least 2 hours.   Meanwhile, place the chocolate chips and shortening in the top of a double boiler over gently boiling water. Stir until melted and well blended. Turn the heat off when the chocolate is melted. Using a toothpick or a small fork, dip the cold buckeyes into the chocolate until 2⁄3 of the ball is covered, leaving the top of the ball exposed. Chill and let the chocolate dry. Use a damp finger to smooth over the holes in the top of the buckeye from the toothpick or fork. Pack in an airtight container with wax paper separating the layers. Store refrigerated.

december  329

Tiny Fruitcake Cookies makes about 7 dozen cookies

I’ve heard my share of fruitcake jokes over the years. Back when we lived in Michigan, I made heavy, nut-studded fruitcakes during the holidays to share with our family in Kentucky. I even had to buy a supersize stainless-steel bowl at the local hardware store to mix the batter. When my brother-in-law Wayne was serving in Desert Storm,

1½ cups unbleached all-purpose flour 1½ teaspoons baking soda ½ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg ½ teaspoon cinnamon ½ cup (1 stick) butter 1 cup light brown sugar 2 large eggs ½ cup Kentucky bourbon 6 ounces (1½ cups) walnuts, chopped 6 ounces (1½ cups) pecans, chopped 1 cup golden raisins 1 cup raisins 4 ounces dried cherries, lightly chopped

we shipped fruitcake to Saudi Arabia. He claims he hoarded the fruitcake in his tank, taking small bites when no one was looking. Over the years, the number of fruitcake eaters in our family has dwindled, so now I bake a batch of these fruitcake cookies instead. This recipe is adapted from one belonging to my brother-in-law Jack’s mother, Mary Renaud. Serve them with a small glass of eggnog, and let the holidays begin.

Preheat the oven to 300°F. Line rimmed baking sheets with parchment paper. In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, baking soda, nutmeg, and cinnamon. Set aside. With an electric mixer, blend the butter and brown sugar until light and fluffy. Beat in the eggs, one at a time, until thoroughly blended. Add the bourbon and mix well. Stir in the walnuts, pecans, both varieties of raisins, and dried cherries. Gently fold in the flour mixture. Using a teaspoon, spoon the batter onto prepared baking sheets. Bake for 15 to 17 minutes, or until lightly browned on the bottom. Cool on a rack. Store in an airtight container.

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Holiday Open House or Happy Hour Whether trimming the tree or celebrating New Year’s Eve, an open house is a festive way to get people together. It’s fun to serve a signature cocktail along with an assortment of beer and wine. Stagger the times on invitations so guests will come and go all evening.

menu Bourbon Ball Cocktail or Bacon Bourbon Cocktail Endive Cups with Goat Cheese and Almonds Garlic Walnut Spread Tiny Fruitcake Cookies (page 330) Margaret’s Bourbon Balls (page 328) Buckeyes (page 329)

Bourbon Ball Cocktail makes 1 cocktail

The recipe for this fun,

1 part Kentucky bourbon 1 part Tuaca 1 park crème de cacao

festive drink is used with permission from The Kentucky Bourbon Cocktail Book.

In a cocktail shaker, combine the bourbon, Tuaca, crème de cacao, and ice. Shake well and serve in a martini glass.

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Bacon Bourbon Cocktail makes 1 cocktail

bacon-infused bourbon

This cocktail caught the eye

6 slices bacon 2 cups (480 mL) Kentucky bourbon

of my brother-in-law Kevin, who shared the recipe with

brown sugar simple syrup

me. It is adapted from

1 cup water 1 cup light brown sugar

Spirit Magazine, using two of Kentucky’s favorite ingredients: bacon and bourbon.

2 dashes Angostura bitters Small piece cooked bacon, twisted into a curl To make the bacon-infused bourbon, cook the bacon over medium-low heat until crisp. Pour the bacon fat into a 1-quart glass jar and add the bourbon, swirling them together. Cover and let sit at room temperature for 3 days, swirling the bourbon and bacon fat daily. Refrigerate for 24 hours to separate the fat and the bourbon. Remove the layer of bacon fat and pour the bourbon through a strainer lined with coffee filters. To make the syrup, combine the water and brown sugar in a saucepan. Heat over medium heat until the sugar dissolves. Set aside to cool. To make the cocktail, combine 2 ounces baconinfused bourbon, ¼ to ½ ounce syrup, bitters, and ice. Shake well and serve in a rocks glass. Garnish with the bacon curl.

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Endive Cups with Goat Cheese and Almonds makes 8 servings

An elegant alternative to fresh vegetables and dip, this appetizer is popular at

4 heads Belgian endive, separated into leaves 4 ounces soft goat cheese ¼ cup olive oil 1⁄3 cup sliced almonds, toasted Freshly ground black pepper

holiday gatherings.

Arrange the endive leaves on a platter, with the cup portion of the leaf facing up. Crumble the goat cheese and sprinkle into the endive cups. Drizzle the cheese-filled leaves with olive oil and sprinkle with toasted almonds. Garnish with freshly ground black pepper.

Garlic Walnut Spread makes about 1 cup

This was adapted from a recipe for a spread served on thin crackers or toasted bread at the Lever House Restaurant in New York.

6 heads garlic 1 cup walnuts 1 tablespoon red wine vinegar ½ teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper ½ cup olive oil 2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley 1 tablespoon fresh thyme or 1 teaspoon dried Preheat the oven to 350°F. Wrap the garlic heads in aluminum foil and place in a small baking dish. Bake for 1 hour, until the garlic is softened. Let cool and squeeze the garlic into a food processor or blender. Add the walnuts, vinegar, salt, and pepper. Drizzle in the olive oil and pulse to blend and make a paste. Add the parsley and thyme and mix to blend.

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The Kitchen Toolbox

A lot goes on in an active kitchen, from planning meals to storing groceries, fixing snacks to cooking dinner. This chapter is intended to help cooks stock a pantry, learn basic cooking methods, and equip a kitchen.

The Modern Kitchen and Pantry There are certain ingredients I use in a lot of recipes, so I try to keep them on hand in my refrigerator, freezer, and pantry.

refriger ator

produce

pantry

Bacon

Carrots

Anchovy paste

Beer

Celery

Applesauce, unsweetened

Butter

Garlic

Baking powder

Buttermilk, whole and low-fat

Green onions

Baking soda

Cheese: Neufchâtel or cream

Lemons

Beans: black, red, navy,

cheese, Parmesan, Cheddar,

Limes

chickpeas, brown lentils,

Colby, Feta, and soft goat

Onions

red lentils

cheese

Potatoes

Eggs, large

Salad greens

Flour tortillas Half-and-half Heavy cream Mayonnaise Milk, skim Sour cream Yogurt, plain

Bread: hamburger buns, whole-grain sandwich bread

frozen fruits and vegetables Black-eyed peas Blueberries, cherries, and other berries Corn Mixed vegetables Peas Spinach Turnip greens

Bread crumbs: dry, traditional, Japanese Panko Broth: reduced-sodium chicken, vegetable Capers Chili sauce Chocolate: semisweet chips, bittersweet baking Cocoa powder, unsweetened Coconut, shredded

335

Coffee: regular ground, decaffeinated ground, instant or micro-ground espresso powder Corn syrup, light

Oats: old-fashioned, quickcooking, steel-cut Oil: canola, olive, dark sesame seed Pasta: spaghetti, linguine,

herbs and spices Allspice Basil Bay leaves Cardamom, pods and ground

Cornmeal, yellow and white

lasagna, bowtie, other

Cayenne pepper

Cornstarch

assorted shapes

Celery seed; celery salt

Peanut butter

Chili powder

Pickle relish

Cinnamon, ground

Dry milk powder

Pickles

Cloves, ground

Flax seed, ground

Pimientos, jarred

Coriander, ground

Flour: unbleached all-

Raisins: dark, golden

Cumin, ground

purpose, white wheat,

Roasted red peppers

Dill weed

whole wheat, cake

Salt: iodized table, kosher,

Garlic powder

Dried fruit: cranberries, blueberries, raisins

Green chilies, chopped Grits Honey

iodized sea salt Seeds: hulled roasted sunflower, roasted pumpkin

Ginger, powdered Herbes de Provence Mustard, dry powder

Hot red pepper sauce

Sorghum

Onion powder

Juice: reduced-sodium

Soy sauce (tamari), reduced-

Oregano

sodium

Paprika: sweet, smoked

Ketchup

Stock, beef

Pepper: black, cayenne,

Liquor: Kentucky bourbon,

Sugar: granulated, dark

vegetable (V8)

rum Maple syrup Mayonnaise Molasses Mustard: coarse-grain, Dijon, yellow, spicy brown Nonstick cooking spray, with and without flour Nuts: pecans, walnuts, black walnuts, almonds (sliced and whole)

Rosemary

powdered

Thyme

Tea: green, black, family-size bags Tomatoes, canned: crushed, diced, whole, paste Vanilla extract Vinegar: balsamic, apple cider, red wine Wine: dry red and white (suitable for drinking) Worcestershire sauce Yeast: instant or quick-rise

336  the kitchen toolbox

crushed red flakes

brown, light brown,

Turmeric

Cooking Methods and Food Preservation Techniques A cooking method defines a seasonal dish as much as the ingredients do. I’m not likely to make a hot pot of white bean chili in July or to roast corn and barbecue shrimp on a cold day in January. In Kentucky recipes, the oven, grill, stovetop, and smoker are prominent. The following cooking methods and food preservation techniques are used most often in this book. baking or roasting

canning

Baking and roasting are different cooking

This method of food preservation utilizes

methods, but the technique is the same. Both

surplus produce from the garden to preserve

use hot, dry air to surround the food on all

the flavors of summer for the winter. Sauces,

sides, and they are usually done in an oven.

vegetables, fruits, jellies, or jams are sealed in

Sometimes, but not always, roasting is done

sterilized jars and processed in a boiling water

at a higher temperature than baking. We bake

canner, allowing them to be stored without

hams, cakes, cookies, potatoes, and fish. We

refrigeration. It’s essential to know the

roast turkeys, vegetables, and large cuts of

difference between low- and high-acid foods

beef for roast beef.

and how to can each type in a safe fashion. In this book, Margaret’s Chili Sauce (page 219) is

barbecuing Barbecuing involves an indirect source of heat

a high-acid food processed with the boiling water method of canning.

with lots of smoke. Not as cool in temperature as smoking or as hot as grilling, barbecuing is

cast-iron cooking

a low, slow process.

A well-seasoned cast-iron skillet is an icon of Kentucky home cooking. Used for everything

br aising Braising is the cooking of browned meat or vegetables in liquid in a covered vessel such as a Dutch oven. It’s used to coax tougher cuts of meat such as beef chuck roast, beef brisket, or pork shoulder into tender submission.

brining

from baking cornbread to frying sausage patties, cast iron holds heat superbly and creates a hot surface for cooking food. The trick is to keep cast iron seasoned so it will give you many years of a nonstick surface.   To season a cast-iron skillet, use these tips adapted from Lodge: Wash the cookware with hot, soapy water and a stiff brush. Rinse and dry completely. Apply a thin, even coating

Brining means to soak a food in a salt

of melted vegetable shortening or cooking

solution. See page 264 for brining a chicken

oil to the cookware (inside and out). Place

and page 300 for brining a turkey.

aluminum foil on the bottom rack of the oven. Set the oven temperature to 350 to 400°F. Place the skillet upside down on the top rack of the oven.  Bake the cookware for at least 1 hour.

the kitchen toolbox  337

After the hour, turn the oven off and let the

roasting

skillet cool in the oven. Store the skillet,

See Baking or Roasting, above.

uncovered, in a dry place. After using a cast-iron skillet for cooking, clean it with a stiff nylon brush and hot water. Using soap is not recommended, and harsh detergents should be avoided. Towel dry immediately and apply a light coating of oil while the skillet is still warm. If food still sticks to the surface, repeat the seasoning process.

freezing Freezing berries, corn, green beans, tomatoes, and other fruits and vegetables keeps them fresh well past the harvest.

grilling

sautéing This stovetop method of cooking uses a large skillet and medium-high to high heat from below. Add a bit of oil and let the skillet get hot before sautéing. This method quickly cooks and browns a piece of chicken, fish, pork, or other thin cut of meat for enhanced flavor and a restaurant-worthy presentation.

slow cooking A countertop electric slow cooker is used for Ale-8 One Slow Cooker Pork Barbecue (page 175). This appliance and cooking method come in handy when you can’t be there to

Grilling uses high heat from below (the

watch the entire cooking process or when the

opposite of broiling). Generally, the food is

oven or stovetop is needed for preparing other

cooked on an open grate with the heat of the

food.

fire underneath it. The food is then flipped over to cook the other side. Grilling is typically reserved for thinner cuts of meat, fish, or poultry or vegetables of uniform thickness.

pickling

smoking Used most commonly for cuts of pork, beef, and fish, this cooking method uses a very low temperature and surrounds the food with smoke generated from hardwood coals.

Pickling is preserving vegetables or fruits in an

To smoke foods at a higher temperature, see

acidic solution. This method of preservation is

Barbecuing, above.

popular for cucumbers and other vegetables. For example, the recipe for Bread and Butter Freezer Pickles (page 218) uses a sweet sugar solution.

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Equipment List In addition to ingredients, every well-stocked kitchen needs some basic equipment. Here’s the equipment required for success with the recipes in this book. Blender: Either a countertop or immersion

Fat separator: My glass fat separator, with a

variety works for blending soups or making

small strainer on top, has paid for itself over

pesto, but for crushing ice, only a countertop

and over. I use it whenever I make chicken

blender will do.

broth, beef stew, pot roast, or any other dish

Box grater: Use this to grate your own cheese—

that requires separating the fat from the

it’s both cheaper and fresher. Also use a

broth or juices. Some models are made out

grater to cut butter into flour when making

of plastic, but they crack too easily when hot

biscuits or scones.

liquid is added. I recommend spending a

Can opener: The old-fashioned hand-cranked model with the new-fangled twist doesn’t

few extra dollars for a glass model. Food processor: For certain kitchen tasks,

leave a sharp edge—plus, it keeps my arm

nothing beats a food processor: mixing

in shape.

pizza dough and pie crust, making pesto

Cast-iron skillet: No Kentucky kitchen should be without one. Take care when using and washing it so it doesn’t lose its seasoning (page 337). Colander: Essential for washing fruits and berries and draining pasta. Corkscrew: Essential for opening a bottle of wine. Double boiler: Not essential, but useful for low-heat melting, such as chocolate, and to avoid overcooking egg or custard sauces. Dutch oven: My favorite piece of kitchen

and salsa, chopping nuts, shredding cabbage, and grating large quantities of cheese. Garlic press: Some argue the virtues of minced garlic over pressed garlic, but I’m not a discerning enough cook to tell the difference in most recipes. Pressing garlic is a fast way to cut fresh garlic, so I like to use a garlic press instead of mincing to save time. Griddle: I can’t make pancakes or corncakes without my stovetop cast-iron griddle. Hot mitts: I use a pair of hot mitts that extend

equipment and especially useful for making

up to the bend in my elbows. At this length,

soups and stews, braising a pot roast, or

the mitts protect my hands from hot pans

cooking a chicken. Two terrific Dutch ovens

and my forearms from the steam when

are the cast-iron version from Lodge and the

draining hot pasta and even the occasional

enameled cast-iron version from Le Creuset.

bump on the oven rack. And unlike square

Both are heavy and conduct heat slowly,

pot holders or a dish towel, I wear them like

but once they get hot, they retain heat

gloves, allowing me to keep a good grip on

beautifully.

hot dishes.

the kitchen toolbox  339

Ice cream freezer: To make homemade ice

spatulas, but now everything is made of

cream, every kitchen needs a countertop or

silicone They’re useful for folding flour

traditional ice cream freezer. My KitchenAid

into liquids and scraping batter bowls and

mixer has an attachment for making ice

mayonnaise jars.

cream.

Skillet: Most often I use a 12-inch ovenproof

Knives: Every well-stocked kitchen should have

skillet with sloped sides. My favorite brand

at least three types of knives: A chef’s knife

is All-Clad. They might seem expensive, but

is used for slicing, chopping, and cutting.

my stainless-steel version may never have

A paring knife is good for making small

to be replaced. A smaller (8-inch diameter)

cuts and for slicing or peeling in the air as

nonstick skillet is the ideal size to scramble

opposed to on a cutting board. A serrated knife is used most often to slice bread and tomatoes. Shop for a knife that fits your hand. Keep your knives sharp, and don’t put them in the dishwasher. Measuring cups and spoons: For measuring liquids, 2- or 4-cup glass models are most useful. For measuring dry ingredients,

a few eggs or to toast nuts. Soup pot: For making soup and boiling water for pasta, a 7-quart pot works well. Strainer: A strainer with fine mesh openings comes in handy to strain seeds out of Concord grapes or to shake powdered sugar on top of a cake. Thermometer: An instant-read thermometer

smaller “dry” measuring cups and

is essential to measure the final internal

measuring spoons are a must.

temperature of meat or poultry and to

Ovenproof baking dishes: I use primarily 13×9×2inch and 15×11×2-inch baking dishes made of glass or ovenproof ceramic. Parchment paper: Used primarily for baking, it’s readily available in rolls at the supermarket. Rimmed baking sheets: Also called half sheet pans, rimmed baking sheets have multiple uses in the kitchen. Those used for the recipes in this book are 17½×12½×1 inches. Saucepan: A 3-quart saucepan is a great size,

measure the temperature of milk or water when making yeast dough. Tongs: I use tongs, the spring-loaded variety, all the time to toss salads, serve long strands of pasta, and turn meat in a skillet or on the grill. Waffle iron: I have two types: one for breakfast waffles (a must-have) and one for ice cream cones (a luxury). Wax paper: Use it to separate layers of cookies

useful for making sauces or small batches of

in a storage container or to wrap pimiento

soup or creating a makeshift double boiler.

cheese sandwiches. I feel at one with my

Scoop: Portion scoops come in different sizes. A small #100 scoop can be used whenever a 1-inch ball needs to be measured. A

grandmother with a roll of wax paper in my kitchen. Whisk: For homemade vinaigrette and hand-

medium-sized #40 scoop is useful for larger

whipped cream, nothing beats a whisk. I like

portions of cookie dough, meatballs, drop

one with long, thin wires.

biscuits, and the like. Silicone spatula: They used to be called rubber

340  the kitchen toolbox

Publications, Resources, and Festivals Publications and Other Media BourbonBlog.com. Corriher, Shirley. BakeWise. Scribner, 2008. —. CookWise. Morrow, 1997. Flexner, Marion. Out of Kentucky Kitchens. Bramhall House, 1969. Foodways. Vol. 7. The New Encyclopedia of Southern Culture. John T. Edge, volume editor; Charles Reagan Wilson, general editor. University of North Carolina Press, 2007. From Asparagus to Zucchini: A Guide to FarmFresh Seasonal Produce. Madison Area Community Supported Agriculture Coalition, 1996. Garten, Ina. Barefoot Contessa Parties. Clarkson Potter, 2005. Hayes, Irene. What’s Cooking in Kentucky. T. I. Publishing Company, 1979. Hubbard, Harlan. Payne Hollow Journal. University Press of Kentucky, 1996. Hunt to Harbor—An Epicurian Tour. Junior League of Baltimore, 1985. Katzen, Mollie. Moosewood Cookbook. Ten Speed Press, 1977. Kentucky Cooperative Extension Service and Kentucky Department of Agriculture. Pride of Kentucky: Great Recipes with Food, Farm, and Family Traditions. Favorite Recipes Press, 2003. The Kentucky Encyclopedia. John E. Kleber, editor in chief. University Press of Kentucky, 1992.

MarthaStewart.com. Partytime in Kentucky. American Cancer Society, Kentucky Division, 1982. Perrine, Joy, and Susan Reigler. The Kentucky Bourbon Cocktail Book. University Press of Kentucky, 2009. Piercy, Caroline B. The Shaker Cook Book. Crown Publishers, 1963. Rombauer, Irma S., Marion R. Becker, and Ethan Becker. Joy of Cooking. Scribner, 2006. Ross, Elizabeth. Kentucky Keepsakes. McClanahan Publishing House, 1996. Satter, Ellyn. How to Get Your Kid to Eat But Not Too Much. Bull Publishing Company, 1987. Smith, Barbara. B. Smith Cooks Southern-Style. Scribner, 2009. Southern Living Annual Recipes. Oxmoor House, 2007. The Splendid Table. Radio program by Lynne Rossetto Kasper. American Public Media. Storer, Fern. Recipes Remembered: A Collection of Modernized Nostalgia. Highland House Books, 1989, 2005. To Market to Market. Junior League of Owensboro, Kentucky, 1984. 2008–09 Vegetable Production Guide for Commercial Growers. Edited by Ric Bessin, extension entomologist; Tim Coolong, Terry Jones, Joe Masabni, and John Strang, extension horticulture specialists; Kenny Seebold, extension plant pathologist.

341

University of Kentucky College of

buffalo (bison)

Agriculture.

Kentucky Bison Company, Goshen

We Make You Kindly Welcome, Recipes from the Trustee House Daily Fare, Pleasant Hill, Kentucky. Pleasant Hill Press, 1991. Weinzweig, Ari. Zingerman’s Guide to Good

www.kybisonco.com Vista Grand Ranch (Cincinnati) www.vistagrandranch.com

Eating. Houghton Mifflin, 2003. White, Katharine S. Onward and Upward in the Garden. Farrar, Straus and Giroux, 1958.

cheese Gethsemani Farms, Trappist www.gethsemanifarms.org Kenny’s Farmhouse Cheese, Barren County

Kentucky Farms and Food Producers apples www.allaboutapples.com/orchard/ky.htm

aspar agus Burrwal Farm, Mays Lick www.burrwalsbest.com

beef Brookview Beef, Lexington www.brookviewbeef.com John’s Custom Meats, Smiths Grove www.johnscustommeats.com Pike Valley Farm, Lancaster www.pikevalleyfarm.com

black walnuts Hammons Products Company (hulling locations across Kentucky)

www.kennyscountrycheese.com Sapori d’ Italia (Taste of Italy), Lexington www.cheeseitalia.com

chocol ate Jamieson’s Chocolate, Mount Sterling www.chocolatebyjamieson.com

flour , cornmeal, gr ains King Arthur Flour (Vermont) www.kingarthurflour.com Salamander Springs, Berea www.localharvest.org/farms/M5606 Weisenberger, Midway www.weisenberger.com

garlic Blue Moon Garlic, Richmond www.bluemoongarlic.com

www.hammonsproducts.com

blueberries Brackenridge Berry Farm, Brooksville www.brackenridgeberryfarm.com

342  publications, resources, and festivals

goetta

Midway Honey Company, Midway

Bill Finke and Sons Market, Fort Wright

(859) 846-5510

(859) 261-8899 Glier’s, Covington

Otter Valley Farms, Lawrenceburg (502) 859-1028

www.goetta.com Kremer’s Market, Crescent Springs www.kremersmarket.com

ham, cit y Broadbent Hams, Kuttawa www.broadbenthams.com Kentucky Legend Hams, Owensboro

ice cream Graeter’s, Lexington, Louisville,   and Northern Kentucky www.graeters.com

mushrooms Sheltowee Farm, Lexington www.sheltoweefarm.com

www.smgmeats.com/sfgbrands/   kentuckylegend.php

ham, country Broadbent Hams, Kuttawa www.broadbenthams.com

pecans Black’s Pecans, Hickman www.blackpecans.com Kentucky Kernel Pecans, Hickman www.kykernelpecans.com

Father’s Country Hams, Bremen www.fatherscountryhams.com

pork

Johnson’s Country Ham, Union

John’s Custom Meats, Smiths Grove

(859) 384-1114

www.johnscustommeats.com

Keene Country Hams, Bardstown

Pike Valley Farm, Lancaster

www.keeneshams.com

www.pikevalleyfarm.com

Newsome’s Aged Country Ham, Princeton

The Jerrys Farm, Flemingsburg

www.newsomscountryham.com

www.thejerrysfarm.com

Scott Hams, Greenville www.scotthams.com

poultry and eggs Pike Valley Farm, Lancaster

honey

www.pikevalleyfarm.com

Katelyn’s Honey, Burlington

Tewes Poultry Farm, Crescent Springs

(859) 586-5283

www.tewesfarm.com

Kentucky Honey Company, Lexington www.kentuckyhoney.com

publications, resources, and festivals  343

sausage Kroeger & Sons Meats (Cincinnati) www.findlaymarket.org/kroeger.htm Stone Cross Farm, Taylorsville www.stonecrossfarm.com

General Resources for KentuckyProduced Food Community-supported agriculture www.kyagr.com/marketing/plantmktg   /csa.htm Farmers’ markets by location

shrimp (freshwater pr awns)

www.kyagr.com/marketing/farmmarket

Bluegrass Shrimp Farm, Covington

  /index.htm

(859) 356-6485

Grass-fed beef www.americangrassfed.org

smoked fish and trout Shuckman’s Fish Co. & Smokery, Louisville www.kysmokedfish.com

Kentucky Farm Bureau—certified   roadside markets www.kyfb.com/federation/program-links/   roadside-farm-markets

sorghum Country Rock Sorghum, Versailles (859) 873-8497 Moonlite Sorghum, Owensboro www.moonlite.com; click “Online store” Oberholtzer’s Sorghum Mill, Liberty (502) 875-4680

Kentucky Herb Association www.kyherb.com Kentucky Market Maker http://ky.marketmaker.uiuc.edu Kentucky Nut Growers Association www.pawpaw.kysu.edu/KNGA.htm Kentucky Proud

soy sauce

www.kyproud.com/prodsearch.aspx

Bluegrass Soy Sauce, Louisville

Kentucky State Beekeeper Association

www.bourbonbarrelfoods.com

www.ksbabeekeeping.org

tea Elmwood Inn Tea Shop, Perryville www.elmwoodinn.com MonTea Shop, Lexington www.monteashop.com

Local Harvest—farmers’ markets, family   farms, sources of seasonal foods www.localharvest.org Magazines Edible Louisville www.ediblecommunities.com/louisville Edible Ohio Valley www.ediblecommunities.com/ohiovalley

344  publications, resources, and festivals

Kitchen Equipment and Miscellaneous Ingredients

Poultry, beef, buffalo (bison), pork, and   other edibles www.eatwild.com/products/kentucky.html

basic equipment

Shrimp farms

A Cook’s Wares—scoops

Certified “Wild American Shrimp”

www.cookswares.com (search “scoops”)

www.wildamericanshrimp.com

www.cooking.com

www.kyagr.com/marketing/aquaculture/

All-Clad—skillets and saucepans

“U-pick” farms

www.all-clad.com

www.pickyourown.org/KY.htm

Le Creuset—enameled cast-iron cookware

Wine

www.lecreuset.com

www.kentuckyvineyardsociety.org

Lodge—cast-iron cookware www.lodgemfg.com

Markets, Attractions, and Organizations Care Calendar—online tool for scheduling   meal delivery

canning and preserving equipment and information Ball products

www.carecalendar.org

www.freshpreserving.com

Findlay Market (Cincinnati)

Kentucky Cooperative Extension Service

www.findlaymarket.org

www.ca.uky.edu/county

Jungle Jim’s Market (Cincinnati)

Leifheit—jars and supplies

www.junglejims.com Kentucky Bourbon Trail www.kybourbontrail.com Shaker Village, Harrodsburg www.shakervillageky.org Shopper’s Guide to Pesticides www.foodnews.org

www.leifheitusa.com search “preserving” National canning projects www.canningacrossamerica.com National Center for Home Food Preservation www.uga.edu/nchfp National Garden Association www.garden.org

Slow Food www.slowfoodusa.org Southern Organic Resource Guide http://attra.ncat.org/sorg/

publications, resources, and festivals  345

miscellaneous ingredients

Goettafest, Covington

Buttermilk powder

www.mainstrasse.org/festivals

SACO Foods www.sacofoods.com/culteredbuttermilkblend   .html None Such Mincemeat http://onlinestore.smucker.com Spices

Italian Festival, Newport www.go2newport.com

july Blackberry Festival, Carlisle www.carlisle-nicholascounty.org

www.penzeys.com

august Berea Craft Festival, Berea

Festivals march Maple Syrup Festival, Auburn www.federalgrove.com

www.bereacraftfestival.com Buttermilk Days Festival, Bardstown www.visitbardstown.com Glier’s Goettafest, Newport www.goettafest.com

april

Great Inland Seafood Festival, Newport

Mountain Mushroom Festival, Irvine

www.greatinlandseafoodfest.com

www.mountainmushroomfestival.org

september may

Anderson County Burgoo Festival

Asparagus Festival, Mays Lick

www.kentuckyburgoo.com

www.mayslick.com

Bourbon Festival, Bardstown www.kybourbonfestival.com

june Beer Cheese Festival, Winchester www.beercheesefestival.com Fort Harrod Beef Festival, Harrodsburg www.fortharrodbeeffestival.org

Hancock County Sorghum Festival, Hawesville www.hancockky.us Knott County Gingerbread Festival, Hindman Facebook/The Official Knott County   Gingerbread Page Morgan County Sorghum Festival, West Liberty www.cityofwestliberty.com

346  publications, resources, and festivals

october

Oktoberfests Cincinnati: www.oktoberfestzinzinnati.com

Bean Bash at Turfway Park, Florence

Covington: www.mainstrasse.org

www.beanbash.org

Lexington: www.ctkoktoberfest.com Louisville: www.german-americanclub.com Newport: www.hofbrauhausnewport.com

Buffalo Daze, Stamping Ground www.stampinggroundky.org

Pecan Festival, Hickman

Forkland Heritage Festival and Revue, Boyle

www.hickmankytourism.com/festival.htm

  County

Spoonbread Festival, Berea www.spoonbreadfestival.com. World Chicken Festival, London

www.forklandcomctr.org Trigg County Country Ham Festival, Cadiz www.hamfestival.com

www.chickenfestival.com

publications, resources, and festivals  347

Kale

Green Onions

Green Beans

Garlic

Garden Peas

Eggplant

Cucumbers

Corn

Celery

Cauliflower

Carrots

Cabbage

Brussels Sprouts

Broccoli

Bok Choy

Beets

Beet Greens

Baby Green Garlic

Asparagus

Acorn Squash

vegetables

January

February

March

late

April

late

late

late

May

late

late

late

early

June

late

early

July

August

September

early

October

November December

In Kentucky, regional variations exist. This chart is intended to provide a general, not exact, guideline for produce seasonality

Kentucky Produce Availability Chart

late

late

April

late

late

May

Zucchini

Yellow Squash

Winter Squash

Turnips

Tomatoes

Swiss Chard

Sweet Potatoes

Summer Squash

Strawberries

Spinach

late

late

March

Snow Peas

February

late

January

Snap Peas

Shallots

Radishes

Pumpkin

Potatoes

Peppers

Peas

Parsnips

Onions

Okra

Mushrooms

Lettuces

Kohlrabi

Knob Onions

vegetables

late

late

late

late

late

late

June

late

early

July

late

late

August

September

late

early

October

November December

late

late

April

late

late

May

late

late

Watermelon

early

late

late

July

early

late

June

Strawberries

Rhubarb

Raspberries

late

March

Plums

February

late

January

Pears

Peaches

Pawpaws

Nectarines

Honeydew Melon

Gooseberries

Concord Grapes

Cherries

Cantaloupes

Blueberries

Blackberries

Asian Pears

Apricots

Apples

fruit August

early

early

September

late

early

October

November December

Thyme

Tarragon

Sorrel

Sage

Rosemary

Parsley

Oregano

Mint

Lemon Balm

Garlic Scapes

Dill

Cilantro

Chives

Chervil

Basil

Arugula

herbs

January

February

March

late

late

April

May

June

July

August

late

September

late

early

October

November December

A Calendar of Menus

New Year’s Day Brunch

Winter Fireside Dinner II

Sour Cream Coffee Cake

Blood Orange Ambrosia

Kentucky Coffee Tree Scones

Chicken Pie

Baked Eggs with Parmesan and Herbs

Vanilla Bourbon Cup Custards

Blood Orange Ambrosia Kentucky Wine Cooler Slush

Winter Lunch Winter Citrus Salad with Arugula or Blood Orange Ambrosia Chicken Pie

Winter Fireside Dinner III Winter Citrus Salad with Arugula Spicy Stewed Black-Eyed Peas and Kale Yellow Basmati Rice Pilaf Warm Bread Pudding with Kentucky Bourbon Sauce

Sour Cream Lemon Loaf Cake

Winter Family Supper

Football-Worthy Fare for Super Bowl Sunday

Winter Wheat Berry Salad

Cheese Dip with Chutney, Bacon, and

Spicy Stewed Black-Eyed Peas and Kale

Green Onions

Silver Dollar Corncakes

Beer Cheese Hummus

Everything Cookies

White Bean and Chicken Chili Buffalo-Style Turkey Meatballs

Winter Fireside Dinner I Winter Chopped Salad Slow-Roasted Pork Shoulder Fresh Parsley Sauce Yellow Basmati Rice Pilaf Warm Bread Pudding with Kentucky

Buffalo Sliders with Smoky Remoulade Sauce Muffulettas Smoky Chili Non Carne Winter Wheat Berry Salad One-Pan Chocolate Chip Pecan Blondies Everything Cookies

Bourbon Sauce

353

Cozy Valentine’s Day Dinner

Easter Sunday Dinner

Flank Steak with Red Wine Pan Sauce

Honey Bourbon Glazed Ham

Oven-Roasted Root Vegetables

Roasted Asparagus

Modern Caesar Salad with Salt and Pepper

Spring Salad with Poppy Seed Dressing

Croutons Warm Chocolate Bourbon Cakes with Brown Sugar Bourbon Whipped Cream

Guacamole Deviled Eggs Linen-Napkin Dinner Rolls Italian Cream Sheet Cake

and Rich Chocolate Sauce

Mardi Gras Buffet

Kentucky Derby Bash Bourbon Mint Slushies

Muffulettas

Burgoo

Skillet Red Beans

Steamed Asparagus with Toasted Sesame

Spicy Braised Greens

Mayonnaise

Shrimp and Creamy Grits

Shaker Cornsticks

Warm Bread Pudding with Kentucky

Bluegrass Piettes or

Bourbon Sauce

Fresh Strawberries with Vanilla Bourbon Zabaglione

St. Patrick’s Day Kentucky Barrel Ale Stew Fluffiest Mashed Potatoes Cast-Iron Skillet Soda Bread

Mother’s Day Tea Cream Cheese Olive Nut Spread finger sandwiches

Kentucky Irish Coffee

Mini Lemon Cream Scones

Shortbread Cutouts (shamrocks) or

Bluegrass Piettes

Warm Bread Pudding with Kentucky

Shortbread Cutouts

Bourbon Sauce

Fresh Strawberries with Vanilla Bourbon Zabaglione

Lenten Friday Night Fish Fry

Spring Lunch I

Almond-Crusted Grouper Sandwiches

Estill County Shiitake Soup

Mustard-Caper Tartar Sauce

Smoked Trout and Watercress Niçoise Salad

Creamy Penne and Cheese

Linen-Napkin Dinner Rolls

Sunflower Slaw

Sour Cream Lemon Loaf Cake

Stone-Ground Cornmeal Hush Puppies Shaker Lemon Pie

354  a calendar of menus

Spring Lunch II

Fourth of July Feast

Bibb Lettuce with Fresh Chive Vinaigrette

Ale-8 One Slow Cooker Pork Barbecue

Herb-Crusted Lamb Chops

Sweet and Sour Creamy Coleslaw or

Roasted Potatoes with Garlic and Parsley

Sunflower Slaw

Whole-Egg Spoonbread

Cornmeal-Crusted Fried Green Tomatoes

Fresh Strawberries with Vanilla Bourbon

Nina’s Potato Salad

Zabaglione

Sweet Bourbon Baked Beans Bread and Butter Freezer Pickles

Spring Lunch III Spring Radish Salad Arugula Pesto served over Angel-Hair Pasta Rhubarb Crisp with Granola Topping

Spring Dinner Bibb Lettuce with Fresh Chive Vinaigrette or Spring Radish Salad Herb-Crusted Lamb Chops Sweet Gingered Carrot Matchsticks Roasted Potatoes with Garlic and Parsley Bourbon Chocolate Walnut Pie

Fresh Herbed Lemonade, Sweet Iced Tea, or Arnold Palmer Buttermilk Black-’n’-Blue Berry Cobbler Sour Cream Lemon Loaf Cake

Summer Patio Meal Bluegrass Cheese Burgers Oven-Baked Sweet Potato Fries Broccoli, Apple, Raisin Salad Rhubarb Crisp with Granola Topping

Late-Summer Alfresco Dining I Moist Grilled Chicken Breasts

Father’s Day Grill I Blueberry Spinach Salad Flat Iron Steak with Brown Sugar Rub Roasted Potato Salad with Olives and Capers Garlic Scape Pesto on a sliced whole-grain baguette Moist Carrot Sheet Cake Mojitos or Bluegrass Breeze

Fresh Basil Beans Watermelon and Cucumber Salad Cornbread and Tomato Salad Peach Blueberry Pecan Crisp Kentucky Wine Cooler Slush

Late-Summer Alfresco Dining II Flat Iron Steak with Brown Sugar Rub Roasted Potato Salad with Olives and Capers

Father’s Day Grill II Spicy Garlic Beer Cheese with celery sticks Grilled Chicken Thighs with Lemon-Herb Oil Cilantro Lime Rice

Fresh Gremolata Beans Bread and Butter Freezer Pickles Homemade Vanilla Ice Cream with Homemade Waffle Cones

Pea and Peanut Salad Bourbon Chocolate Walnut Pie

a calendar of menus  355

Portable Summer Picnic I

School Night Family Supper III

Kentucky Wine Cooler Slush

Stovetop Bourbon Barbecue Chicken

Kentucky Dill Dip

Garlic Roasted Broccoli with Almonds

Oven-Fried Boneless Chicken Thighs

Olive Oil Mashed Potatoes

Bowtie Pasta with Spinach and Almonds

Gingerbread with Sorghum

Guacamole Deviled Eggs Chunky Ratatouille Fresh Blackberry Sheet Cake

Summer Picnic on the Porch

Oktoberfest Oven-Roasted Sausage with Potatoes and Rosemary Red Cabbage Hot Slaw

Mojitos

Herbed Beer Batter Bread

Smoky Tomato Salsa with tortilla chips

Mini Black Forest Shortcakes

Flat Iron Steak with Brown Sugar Rub Basil Walnut Pesto with penne pasta Watermelon and Cucumber Salad Shortbread Cutouts

Summer Sunday Supper Grilled Bourbon Pork Tenderloin

Autumn Lunch Mixed Greens Salad with Sweet Garlic Dressing Kentucky Barrel Ale Stew Olive Oil Mashed Potatoes Deep-Dish Bourbon Brown Sugar Apple Pie

Fresh Peach Salsa Fresh Corn and Lima Bean Salad Cilantro Lime Rice One-Pan Chocolate Chip Pecan Blondies

School Night Family Supper I Chicken and Cornmeal Dumplings

Tailgating Party Turnip Greens Dip Buffalo Sliders with Smoky Remoulade Sauce Red Beans and Rice with Chili Vinaigrette Apple Pear Pecan Crisp Bluegrass Breeze

Broccoli, Apple, Raisin Salad

School Night Family Supper II Root Beer Sloppy Joes Oven-Baked Sweet Potato Fries Pan-Roasted Brussels Sprouts with Brown Sugar

Harvest Supper Roasted Brined Chicken Fall Salad with Pears and Maple Balsamic Vinaigrette Maple Mashed Sweet Potatoes Braised Kale with Diced Tomato Concord Grape Piettes with Pecan Streusel Topping

356  a calendar of menus

Vegetarian Harvest Dinner

Christmas Breakfast

Beer Cheese Hummus

Blood Orange Ambrosia

Spinach and Roasted Sweet Potato Salad with

Shaker Pumpkin Muffins with Walnuts and

Maple-Mustard Dressing Spicy Butternut Squash and Chickpea Stew Yellow Basmati Rice Pilaf

Flax Seed Country Ham and Green Onion Breakfast Casserole

Garlic Roasted Broccoli with Almonds Black Walnut Sheet Cake

Chili Meal I

Christmas Dinner Kentucky Style Roasted Tenderloin of Beef Lemon Parmesan Beans

Greek Salad with Creamy Dressing

White Cheddar Grits

Cincinnati Chili

Linen-Napkin Dinner Rolls

Sweet Iced Tea

Endive and Pear Salad with Walnuts

Moist Carrot Sheet Cake or Everything Cookies

Kentucky Blackberry Jam Cake or Black Walnut Sheet Cake

Chili Meal II White Bean and Chicken Chili

Nibbles from the Kitchen

Silver Dollar Corncakes or Cornmeal Waffles

Spicy Cheese Wafers

Sunflower Slaw

Brown Sugar Spiced Nuts

Deep-Dish Bourbon Brown Sugar Apple Pie

Kentucky Kettle Corn Shortbread Cutouts

Vegetarian Chili Meal Smoky Chili Non Carne Chili Cheddar Cornbread Winter Wheat Berry Salad One-Pan Chocolate Chip Pecan Blondies

Margaret’s Bourbon Balls Buckeyes Tiny Fruitcake Cookies

Kentucky Happy Hour Bourbon Ball Cocktail or Bacon Bourbon

Thanksgiving Dinner Celery stuffed with Spicy Garlic Beer Cheese Carl’s Pendennis Club Punch Roasted Brined Turkey Cornbread or Traditional Bread Dressing Peggy’s Corn Pudding

Cocktail Endive Cups with Goat Cheese and Almonds Garlic Walnut Spread Tiny Fruitcake Cookies Margaret’s Bourbon Balls Buckeyes

Spinach and Roasted Sweet Potato Salad with Maple-Mustard Dressing Sweet Potatoes with Pecan Topping Bourbon Cranberry Relish Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Brown Sugar Bourbon Whipped Cream Bourbon Mincemeat Pie

a calendar of menus  357

Index

Note: Bold page numbers indicate additional information. alcoholic beverages. See beer and ale; drinks; wine ale. See beer and ale Ale-8 One Slow Cooker Pork Barbecue, 175 All-Butter Pie Crust, 90 almonds Almond-Crusted Grouper Sandwiches, 86 Bowtie Pasta with Spinach and Almonds, 155 Brown Sugar Spiced Nuts, 325 Endive Cups with Goat Cheese and Almonds, 333 Everything Cookies, 104 Garlic Roasted Broccoli with Almonds, 83 Rhubarb Crisp with Granola Topping, 139 Spring Salad with Poppy Seed Dressing, 109 Ambrosia, Blood Orange, 27 anchovies, Modern Caesar Salad with Salt and Pepper Croutons, 67 anchovy paste Green Goddess Dressing, 118 Warren’s Vinaigrette for Mixed Greens, 118 appetizers. See also dips and spreads Brown Sugar Spiced Nuts, 325 Buffalo-Style Turkey Meatballs, 54 Endive Cups with Goat Cheese and Almonds, 333 Guacamole Deviled Eggs, 110 Hearty Catfish Cakes, 92 Kentucky Kettle Corn, 326 Spicy Cheese Wafers, 324 apples, 10, 270, 342 Apple Pear Pecan Crisp, 209 Bourbon Mincemeat Pie, 307 Broccoli, Apple, Raisin Salad, 275

Deep-Dish Bourbon Brown Sugar Apple Pie, 271 Homemade Strawberry Freezer Jam, 150 Maple-Roasted Apples and Onions, 249 Overnight Oatmeal with Yogurt and Berries, 172 Winter Chopped Salad, 22 Winter Wheat Berry Salad, 63 Apricot White Chocolate Scones, 47 Arnold Palmer, 185 arugula Arugula Pesto over Angel-Hair Pasta, 138 Smoked Trout with Watercress Niçoise Salad, 130 Winter Citrus Salad with Arugula, 30 asparagus, 11, 96, 107, 342 Mushroom and Asparagus Skillet Frittata, 100 Roasted Asparagus, 108 Steamed Asparagus with Toasted Sesame Mayonnaise, 126 avocados, 11 Guacamole Deviled Eggs, 110 Smoky Black Beans with Sweet Potatoes, 56 Smoky Chile Non Carne, 289 bacon Bacon Benedictine Sandwiches, 222 Bacon Bourbon Cocktail, 332 Broccoli, Apple, Raisin Salad, 275 Cheese Dip with Chutney, Bacon, and Green Onions, 52 Cornbread and Tomato Salad, 208 Potato Soup with White Cheddar and Ale, 39 Red Cabbage Hot Slaw, 239 Sweet Bourbon Baked Beans, 183 Wilted Lettuce with Hot Bacon Vinaigrette, 114 bananas Banana Bourbon Walnut French Toast, 149 Cream Biscuits with Fruit, 311

barbecue foods, 174, 177, 337 Ale-8 One Slow Cooker Pork Barbecue, 175 Basic Barbecue Dry Rub, 177 Brown Sugar Bourbon Barbecue Sauce, 178 Oven-Baked Pork Barbecue, 176 Peel-’n’-Eat Barbecue Shrimp, 236 Smoked Pork Shoulder, 176 Spicy Seasoning Mix, 93 Stovetop Bourbon Barbecue Chicken, 246 Warren’s Henry Bain–Style Barbecue Sauce, 178 basil, fresh, 156 Basil Walnut Pesto, 217 Bowtie Pasta with Spinach and Almonds, 155 Chicken Sausage with Squash and Fresh Herbs, 211 Chunky Ratatouille, 215 Cornbread and Tomato Salad, 208 Fresh Basil Beans, 206 Fresh Corn and Lima Bean Salad, 216 Herb Simple Syrup, 165 Mixed Greens Salad with Sweet Garlic Dressing, 116 Smoky Tomato Salsa, 214 Sunflower Herb Dressing, 117 beans, 20, 40, 55, 206 Beer Cheese Hummus, 52 Black Bean Burritos, 60 Burgoo, 125 Cincinnati Chili, 287 Curried Chickpeas with Golden Raisins, 57 Fresh Basil Beans, 206 Fresh Corn and Lima Bean Salad, 216 Gremolata Beans, 206 Lemon Parmesan Beans, 206 Lentil Soup with Red Wine and Parsley, 38 Navy Bean Soup with Ham and Bourbon, 41

359

beans (continued) Red Beans and Rice with Chili Vinaigrette, 157 Sesame Ginger Beans, 206 Skillet Red Beans, 58 Slow Cooker Vegetarian Goetta, 280 Smoked Trout and Watercress Niçoise Salad, 130 Smoky Black Beans with Sweet Potatoes, 56 Smoky Chili Non Carne, 289 Spicy Butternut Squash and Chickpea Stew, 59 Spicy Stewed Black-Eyed Peas and Kale, 31 Sweet Bourbon Baked Beans, 183 Sweet Potato Vegetable Soup, 42 Vista Grand Buffalo or Venison Chili, 290 White Bean and Chicken Chili, 53 White Bean Soup with Pasta and Kale, 36 beef, 6, 8, 141, 142, 161, 342 Bluegrass Cheese Burgers, 143 Burgoo, 125 Cincinnati Chili, 287 Cola Pot Roast, 81 Flank Steak with Red Wine Pan Sauce, 65 Flat Iron Steak with Brown Sugar Rub, 161 Homemade Italian Meatballs, 35 Kentucky Barrel Ale Stew, 77 Mama Maggie’s Italian Meat Sauce, 33 Muffulettas, 101 Roasted Tenderloin of Beef, 316 Root Beer Sloppy Joes, 247 beer and ale Beer Cheese Hummus, 52 Herbed Beer Batter Bread, 240 Kentucky Barrel Ale Stew, 77 Peel-’n’-Eat Barbecue Shrimp, 236 Potato Soup with White Cheddar and Ale, 39 Spicy Garlic Beer Cheese, 154 beverages. See drinks Bibb lettuce, 115 Bibb Lettuce with Fresh Chive Vinaigrette, 132 Wilted Lettuce with Hot Bacon Vinaigrette, 114 biscuits, 45 Cornmeal Biscuits, 310 Cream Biscuits, 311 Cream Biscuits with Fruit, 311 Soft Buttermilk Biscuits, 310 bison. See buffalo (bison) blackberries, 189, 190 Buttermilk Black-’n’-Blue Berry Cobbler, 186

360  index

Fresh Blackberry Sheet Cake, 189 Kentucky Blackberry Jam Cake, 319 black-eyed peas, Spicy Stewed Black-Eyed Peas and Kale, 31 black walnuts, 320, 342. See also walnuts Black Walnut Sheet Cake, 321 Bourbon Walnut Cream Cheese Frosting, 193 Kentucky Blackberry Jam Cake, 319 blueberries, 10, 342 Blueberry Mojito, 165 Blueberry Spinach Salad, 160 Buttermilk Black-’n’-Blue Berry Cobbler, 186 Lemon Blueberry Cornmeal Muffins, 17 Overnight Oatmeal with Yogurt and Berries, 172 Peach Blueberry Pecan Crisp, 209 Stone-Ground Grits with Kentucky Honey and Dried Fruit, 200 Blue cheese Bluegrass Cheese Burgers, 143 Fall Salad with Pears and Maple Balsamic Vinaigrette, 265 Bluegrass Breeze, 263 Bluegrass Cheese Burgers, 143 Bluegrass Piettes, 127 bourbon, 123 Bacon Bourbon Cocktail, 332 Banana Bourbon Walnut French Toast, 149 Bluegrass Breeze, 263 Bluegrass Piettes, 127 Bourbon Ball Cocktail, 331 Bourbon Chocolate Walnut Pie, 128 Bourbon Cranberry Relish, 305 Bourbon Mincemeat Pie, 307 Bourbon Mint Slushies, 124 Bourbon Walnut Cream Cheese Frosting, 193 Brown Sugar Bourbon Barbecue Sauce, 178 Brown Sugar Bourbon Whipped Cream, 69 Deep-Dish Bourbon Brown Sugar Apple Pie, 271 Fresh Strawberries with Vanilla Bourbon Zabaglione, 136 Grilled Bourbon Pork Tenderloin, 167 Honey Bourbon Glazed Ham, 106 Kentucky Irish Coffee, 79 Margaret’s Bourbon Balls, 328 Navy Bean Soup with Ham and Bourbon, 41 Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Brown Sugar Bourbon Whipped Cream, 306

Stovetop Bourbon Barbecue Chicken, 246 Sweet Bourbon Baked Beans, 183 Sweet Potatoes with Pecan Topping, 304 Tiny Fruitcake Cookies, 330 Vanilla Bourbon Cup Custards, 29 Warm Bread Pudding with Kentucky Bourbon Sauce, 25 Warm Chocolate Bourbon Cakes, 68 Bourbon Balls, Margaret’s, 328 Bread Pudding, Warm, with Kentucky Bourbon Sauce, 25 breads, 37. See also biscuits; cornbread; scones Cast-Iron Skillet Soda Bread, 79 Herbed Beer Batter Bread, 240 Linen-Napkin Dinner Rolls, 111 brining, 264, 300 Roasted Brined Chicken, 264–265 Roasted Brined Turkey, 299 broccoli Broccoli, Apple, Raisin Salad, 275 Garlic Roasted Broccoli with Almonds, 83 brown sugar Basic Barbecue Dry Rub, 177  Big Crumbs Crumb Cake, 228  Brown Sugar Bourbon Barbecue   Sauce, 178 Brown Sugar Bourbon Whipped Cream, 69 Brown Sugar Simple Syrup, 332 Brown Sugar Spiced Nuts, 325 Concord Grape Piettes with Pecan Streusel Topping, 268 Deep-Dish Bourbon Brown Sugar Apple Pie, 271 Flat Iron Steak with Brown Sugar Rub, 161 Honey Bourbon Glazed Ham, 106 Kentucky Irish Coffee, 79 Margaret’s Chili Sauce (Mamaw’s Ketchup), 219 One-Pan Chocolate Chip Pecan Blondies, 223 One-Pan Pecan Brownies, 94 Oven-Baked Pumpkin Butter, 255 Pan-Roasted Brussels Sprouts with Brown Sugar, 248 Peach Blueberry Pecan Crisp, 209 Soft Caramel Icing, 194 Sour Cream Coffee Cake, 230 Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Brown Sugar Bourbon Whipped Cream, 306 Sweet Bourbon Baked Beans, 183 Sweet Gingered Carrot Matchsticks, 84 Sweet Potatoes with Pecan Topping, 304

Tiny Fruitcake Cookies, 330 Warren’s Henry Bain–Style Barbecue Sauce Brussels sprouts, Pan-Roasted Brussels Sprouts with Brown Sugar, 248 Buckeyes, 329 buffalo (bison), 142, 259, 342 Buffalo Sliders with Smoky Remoulade Sauce, 262 Root Beer Sloppy Joes, 247 Vista Grand Buffalo or Venison Chili, 290 Buffalo-Style Turkey Meatballs, 54 Burgoo, 125 Burritos, Black Bean, 60 butter, 45, 318 All-Butter Pie Crust, 90 Big-Crumbs Crumb Cake, 228 Cheese Dip with Chutney, Bacon, and Green Onions, 52 Chocolate Cherry Scones, 47 Cream Cheese Pastry, 269 Mini Lemon Cream Scones, 46 Shortbread Cutouts, 327 buttermilk, 12, 50 Black Walnut Sheet Cake, 321 Buttermilk Black-’n’-Blue Berry Cobbler, 186 Buttermilk Cornbread, 293 Cast-Iron Skillet Soda Bread, 79 Chocolate Cherry Scones, 47 Cornmeal Waffles, 253 Golden Buttermilk Sheet Cake, 191 Greek Salad with Creamy Dressing, 286 Green Goddess Dressing, 118 Italian Cream Sheet Cake, 112 Kentucky Coffee Tree Scones, 48 Lemon Blueberry Cornmeal Muffins, 17 Mile-High Buttermilk Pancakes, 72 Multigrain Flapjacks, 73 Oven-Fried Boneless Chicken Thighs, 82 Shaker Cornsticks, 292 Silver Dollar Corncakes, 295 Soft Buttermilk Biscuits, 310 Sour Cream Gingerbread Waffles, 254 Stone-Ground Cornmeal Hush Puppies, 88 butternut squash, Spicy Butternut Squash and Chickpea Stew, 59 cabbage, 11 Curry Coleslaw, 179 Like-Popeye’s Fried Chicken Coleslaw, 179 Poppy Seed Coleslaw, 179 Red Cabbage Hot Slaw, 239

Sunflower Slaw, 180 Sweet and Sour Creamy Coleslaw, 179 Caesar Salad with Salt and Pepper Croutons, Modern, 67 cakes, 187, 318. See also frostings and icings Big-Crumbs Crumb Cake, 228 Black Walnut Sheet Cake, 321 Fresh Blackberry Sheet Cake, 189 Golden Buttermilk Sheet Cake, 191 Italian Cream Sheet Cake, 112 Kentucky Blackberry Jam Cake, 319 Moist Carrot Sheet Cake, 192 Nina’s Coca-Cola Cake, 188 Sour Cream Coffee Cake, 230–231 Sour Cream Lemon Loaf Cake, 131 Warm Chocolate Bourbon Cakes, 68 candy Buckeyes, 329 Margaret’s Bourbon Balls, 328 carrots Moist Carrot Sheet Cake, 192 Oven-Roasted Root Vegetables, 66 Sweet Gingered Carrot Matchsticks, 84 Catfish Cakes, Hearty, 92 Cheddar cheese Black Bean Burritos, 60 Bluegrass Cheese Burgers, 143 Cheese Dip with Chutney, Bacon, and Green Onions, 52 Chili Cheddar Cornbread, 294 Cincinnati Chili, 287 Country Ham and Green Onion Breakfast Casserole, 121 Creamy Penne and Cheese, 87 Grilled White Cheddar Pimiento Cheese Sandwiches with Tomato, 102 Kentucky Cornbread Strata, 120 Potato Soup with White Cheddar and Ale, 39 Spicy Cheese Wafers, 324 Spicy Garlic Beer Cheese, 154 White Cheddar Grits, 317 White Cheddar Pimiento Cheese Sandwiches, 102 cheese, 142, 342. See also Blue cheese; Cheddar cheese; cream cheese; Feta cheese; goat cheese; Parmesan cheese; Provolone cheese cherries, 10 Chocolate Cherry Scones, 47 Dried Cherry and Pecan Chicken Salad, 220 Everything Cookies, 104

Mini Black Forest Shortcakes, 241 Stone-Ground Grits with Kentucky Honey and Dried Fruit, 200 Tiny Fruitcake Cookies, 330 Winter Wheat Berry Salad, 63 chicken, 8, 82, 141, 145, 343 Boiled (Poached) Whole Chicken, 27 Burgoo, 125 Chicken and Cornmeal Dumplings, 243–244 Chicken Pie, 28–29 Chicken Sausage with Squash and Fresh Herbs, 211 Dried Cherry and Pecan Chicken Salad, 220 Grilled Chicken Thighs with Lemon-Herb Oil, 166 Moist Grilled Chicken Breasts, 205 Oven-Fried Boneless Chicken Thighs, 82 Roasted Brined Chicken, 264, 264–265 Split Grilled Chicken, 146 Stovetop Bourbon Barbecue Chicken, 246 White Bean and Chicken Chili, 53 chickpeas. See beans chili Cincinnati Chili, 287 Smoky Chili Non Carne, 289 Vista Grand Buffalo or Venison Chili, 290 White Bean and Chicken Chili, 53 Chili Sauce, Margaret’s (Mamaw’s Ketchup), 219 chives, 70–71 Bibb Lettuce with Fresh Chive Vinaigrette, 132 Green Goddess Dressing, 118 Spring Radish Salad, 137 chocolate, 68, 342 Apricot White Chocolate Scones, 47 Bluegrass Piettes, 127 Bourbon Chocolate Walnut Pie, 128 Buckeyes, 329 Café Mocha Mix, 314 Chocolate Cherry Scones, 47 Chocolate Fudge Frosting, 194 Everything Cookies, 104 Kentucky Coffee Tree Scones, 48 Margaret’s Bourbon Balls, 328 Mini Black Forest Shortcakes, 241 Nina’s Coca-Cola Cake, 188 One-Pan Chocolate Chip Pecan Blondies, 223

index  361

chocolate (continued) One-Pan Pecan Brownies, 94 Rich Chocolate Sauce, 69 Warm Chocolate Bourbon Cakes, 68 Whipped Hot Chocolate, 314 chutney, Cheese Dip with Chutney, Bacon, and Green Onions, 52 cilantro, 214 Cilantro Lime Rice, 62 Curried Chickpeas with Golden Raisins, 57 Smoky Tomato Salsa, 214 Spicy Butternut Squash and Chickpea Stew, 59 Cincinnati Chili, 287 Cobbler, Buttermilk Black-’n’-Blue Berry, 186 cocktails. See drinks coconut Black Walnut Sheet Cake, 321 Blood Orange Ambrosia, 27 Crunchy Pecan Granola, 171 Italian Cream Sheet Cake, 112 Moist Carrot Sheet Cake, 192 One-Pan Chocolate Chip Pecan Blondies, 223 coffee Café Mocha Mix, 314 Kentucky Coffee Tree Scones, 48 Kentucky Irish Coffee, 79 coffee cake, 227 Big-Crumbs Crumb Cake, 228 Sour Cream Coffee Cake, 230–231 cola soda Cola Pot Roast, 81 Nina’s Coca-Cola Cake, 188 cole slaw. See slaws collards, 10 Spicy Braised Greens, 64 Concord Grape Piettes with Pecan Streusel Topping, 268 Concord Grape Preserves, 256 cookies, 104, 326, 327 Everything Cookies, 104 One-Pan Chocolate Chip Pecan Blondies, 223 One-Pan Pecan Brownies, 94 Shortbread Cutouts, 327 Tiny Fruitcake Cookies, 330 corn, 11, 212. See also cornbread; cornmeal; grits Fresh Corn and Lima Bean Salad, 216 Fresh Salmon Chowder, 40 Grill-Roasted Corn on the Cob, 213 Kentucky Kettle Corn, 326 Peggy’s Corn Pudding, 302

362  index

Red Beans and Rice with Chili Vinaigrette, 157 cornbread, 291. See also cornmeal Buttermilk Cornbread, 293 Chili Cheddar Cornbread, 294 Cornbread and Tomato Salad, 208 Cornbread or Traditional Bread Dressing, 301 Kentucky Cornbread Strata, 120 Shaker Cornsticks, 292 cornmeal, 9, 212, 342. See also cornbread Chicken and Cornmeal Dumplings, 243–244 Cornmeal Biscuits, 310 Cornmeal-Crusted Fried Green Tomatoes, 181 Cornmeal Pizza Dough, 272 Cornmeal Waffles, 253 Lemon Blueberry Cornmeal Muffins, 17 Multigrain Flapjack Mix, 73 Silver Dollar Corncakes, 295 Stone-Ground Cornmeal Hush Puppies, 88 Whole-Egg Spoonbread, 135 Corn Pudding, Peggy’s, 302 country ham, 315, 343 Country Ham and Green Onion Breakfast Casserole, 121 cranberries Bourbon Cranberry Relish, 305 Mixed Greens with Pumpkin Seeds and Dried Cranberries, 248 Stone-Ground Grits with Kentucky Honey and Dried Fruit, 200 Winter Chopped Salad, 22 Winter Wheat Berry Salad, 63 cream cheese Bacon Benedictine Sandwiches, 222 Baked Stuffed French Toast with Blackberry Jam, 148 Bourbon Walnut Cream Cheese Frosting, 193 Cheese Dip with Chutney, Bacon, and Green Onions, 52 Cream Cheese Olive Nut Spread, 221 Cream Cheese Pastry, 269 Spicy Garlic Beer Cheese, 154 Turnip Greens Dip, 261 Vanilla Bean Cream Cheese Frosting, 193 cucumbers Bacon Benedictine Sandwich, 222 Bread and Butter Freezer Pickles, 218

Greek Salad with Creamy Dressing, 286 Watermelon and Cucumber Salad, 207 Curried Chickpeas with Golden Raisins, 57 Curry Coleslaw, 179 custard, 302 Peggy’s Corn Pudding, 302 Vanilla Bourbon Cup Custards, 29 desserts. See also cakes; candy; cookies; frostings and icings; pies and piettes Apple Pear Pecan Crisp, 209 Buttermilk Black-’n’-Blue Berry Cobbler, 186 Fresh Strawberries with Vanilla Bourbon Zabaglione, 136 Gingerbread with Sorghum, 250 Homemade Vanilla Ice Cream, 195 Homemade Waffle Cones, 196 Mini Black Forest Shortcakes, 241 Peach Blueberry Pecan Crisp, 209 Rhubarb Crisp with Granola Topping, 139 Vanilla Bourbon Cup Custards, 29 Warm Bread Pudding with Kentucky Bourbon Sauce, 25 dill Fresh Salmon Chowder, 40 Herbed Beer Batter Bread, 240 Kentucky Dill Dip, 155 Mustard-Caper Tartar Sauce, 87 Dinner Rolls, Linen-Napkin, 111 dips and spreads. See also appetizers Beer Cheese Hummus, 52 Cheese Dip with Chutney, Bacon, and Green Onions, 52 Cream Cheese Olive Nut Spread, 221 Garlic Walnut Spread, 333 Kentucky Dill Dip, 155 Spicy Garlic Beer Cheese, 154 Turnip Greens Dip, 261 White Cheddar Pimiento Cheese Sandwiches, 102 Dressing, Cornbread or Traditional Bread, 301 drinks Arnold Palmer, 185 Bacon Bourbon Cocktail, 332 Blueberry Mojito, 165 Bluegrass Breeze, 263 Bourbon Ball Cocktail, 331

Bourbon Mint Slushies, 124 Café Mocha Mix, 314 Carl’s Pendennis Club Punch, 298 Fresh Herbed Lemonade, 184 Kentucky Irish Coffee, 79 Kentucky Wine Cooler Slush, 210 Mojito, 164 Sweet Iced Tea, 185 Whipped Hot Chocolate, 314 Dry Rub, Basic Barbecue, 177 Dumplings, Chicken and Cornmeal, 243–244 eggplant, 11 Chunky Ratatouille, 215 eggs, 9, 98, 343 Baked Eggs with Parmesan and Herbs, 98 Country Ham and Green Onion Breakfast Casserole, 121 Guacamole Deviled Eggs, 110 Kentucky Cornbread Strata, 120 Mushroom and Asparagus Skillet Frittata, 100 Nina’s Potato Salad, 182 Whole-Egg Spoonbread, 135 endive Endive and Pear Salad with Walnuts, 318 Endive Cups with Goat Cheese and Almonds, 333 Feta cheese Blueberry Spinach Salad, 160 Greek Salad with Creamy Dressing, 286 Watermelon and Cucumber Salad, 207 fish, 85, 144, 344. See also salmon; shrimp Almond-Crusted Grouper Sandwiches, 86 Hearty Catfish Cakes, 92 Pecan-Crusted Kentucky Rainbow Trout, 91 Smoked Trout and Watercress Niçoise Salad, 130 Flank Steak with Red Wine Pan Sauce, 65 Flat Iron Steak with Brown Sugar Rub, 161 flax seeds Overnight Oatmeal with Yogurt and Berries, 172 Shaker Pumpkin Muffins with Walnuts and Flax Seed, 18 flour, 12, 45, 342 freezing, 7, 338 cookies, 104 meatballs, 35 tomato paste, 13

French toast Baked Stuffed French Toast with Blackberry Jam, 148 Banana Bourbon Walnut French Toast, 149 Fresh Basil Beans, 206 Fresh Blackberry Sheet Cake, 189 Fresh Corn and Lima Bean Salad, 216 Fresh Herbed Lemonade, 184 Fresh Parsley Sauce, 24 Fresh Peach Salsa, 213 Fresh Salmon Chowder, 40 Fresh Strawerries with Vanilla Bourbon Zabaglione, 136 frostings and icings Chocolate Fudge Frosting, 194 Soft Caramel Icing, 194 Vanilla Bean Cream Cheese Frosting, 193 Fruitcake Cookies, Tiny, 330 garlic and garlic scapes, 12, 163, 342 Garlic Roasted Broccoli with Almonds, 83 Garlic Scape Pesto, 163 Garlic Walnut Spread, 333 Mixed Greens Salad with Sweet Garlic Dressing, 116 Roasted Potatoes with Garlic and Parsley, 134 Spicy Garlic Beer Cheese, 154 Gingerbread with Sorghum, 250 goat cheese Endive Cups with Goat Cheese and Almonds, 333 Mixed Greens with Pumpkin Seeds and Dried Cranberries, 248 Red Grape, Caramelized Onion, and Goat Cheese Pizza, 274 Winter Chopped Salad, 22 goetta, 278, 343 Pork Sausage Goetta, 279 Slow Cooker Vegetarian Goetta, 280 Granola, Crunchy Pecan, 171 grapes, 10 Concord Grape Piettes with Pecan Streusel Topping, 268 Concord Grape Preserves, 256 Red Grape, Caramelized Onion, and Goat Cheese Pizza, 274 Greek Salad with Creamy Dressing, 286 Green Goddess Dressing, 118 green onions Cheese Dip with Chutney, Bacon, and Green Onions, 52 Country Ham and Green Onion Breakfast Casserole, 121

Shrimp and Creamy Grits, 235 Smoky Black Beans with Sweet Potatoes, 56 Gremolata Beans, 206 grilled foods, 141, 142, 144, 145, 338 Bluegrass Cheese Burgers, 143 Buffalo Sliders with Smoky Remoulade Sauce, 262 Flat Iron Steak with Brown Sugar Rub, 161 Grilled Bourbon Pork Tenderloin, 167 Grilled Chicken Thighs with Lemon-Herb Oil, 166 Grill-Roasted Corn on the Cob, 213 Herb-Crusted Lamb Chops, 133 Kentucky Honey–Lime Grilled Salmon, 144 Moist Grilled Chicken Breasts, 205 Split Grilled Chicken, 146 Grilled White Cheddar Pimiento Cheese Sandwiches with Tomato, 102 grits, 9 Shrimp and Creamy Grits, 235 Stone-Ground Grits with Kentucky Honey and Dried Fruit, 200 White Cheddar Grits, 317 Guacamole Deviled Eggs, 110 ham, 105, 315, 343 Country Ham and Green Onion Breakfast Casserole, 121 Honey Bourbon Glazed Ham, 106 Muffulettas, 101 Navy Bean Soup with Ham and Bourbon, 41 Spicy Stewed Black-Eyed Peas and Kale, 31 herbs, 12, 140, 156. See also specific herbs Baked Eggs with Parmesan and Herbs, 98 Chicken Sausage with Squash and Fresh Herbs, 211 Fresh Herbed Lemonade, 184 Green Goddess Dressing, 118 Grilled Chicken Thighs with Lemon-Herb Oil, 166 Herb-Crusted Lamb Chops, 133 Herbed Beer Batter Bread, 240 Herbed Pork Sausage Patties, 281 Herb Simple Syrup, 165 Sunflower Herb Dressing, 117 Homemade Italian Meatballs, 35 Homemade Strawberry Freezer Jam, 150

index  363

Homemade Vanilla Ice Cream, 195 Homemade Waffle Cones, 196 honey, 203, 343 Crunchy Pecan Granola, 171 Honey Bourbon Glazed Ham, 106 Honey Lemon Vinaigrette, 116 Kentucky Honey–Lime Grilled Salmon, 144 Mixed Greens Salad with Sweet Garlic Dressing, 116 Stone-Ground Grits with Kentucky Honey and Dried Fruit, 200 Sunflower Herb Dressing, 117 Hummus, Beer Cheese, 52 Hush Puppies, Stone-Ground Cornmeal, 88 ice cream, 9, 343 Homemade Vanilla Ice Cream, 195 icings. See frostings and icings Italian Cream Sheet Cake, 112 Italian Meat Sauce, Mama Maggie’s, 33 kale, 10 Braised Kale with Diced Tomato, 266 Spicy Braised Greens, 64 Spicy Stewed Black-Eyed Peas and Kale, 31 Sweet Potato Vegetable Soup with Kale, 42 White Bean Soup with Pasta and Kale, 36 Kentucky Barrel Ale Stew, 77 Kentucky Blackberry Jam Cake, 319 Kentucky Coffee Tree Scones, 48 Kentucky Cornbread Strata, 120 Kentucky Dill Dip, 155 Kentucky Honey–Lime Grilled Salmon, 144 Kentucky Kettle Corn, 326 Kentucky Irish Coffee, 79 Kentucky Wine Cooler Slush, 210 lamb, 141 Burgoo, 125 Herb-Crusted Lamb Chops, 133 Lemonade, Fresh Herbed, 184 lemons and lemon juice, 12, 50, 89 Fresh Herbed Lemonade, 184 Gremolata Beans, 206 Grilled Chicken Thighs with Lemon-Herb Oil, 166 Honey Lemon Vinaigrette, 116 Lemon Blueberry Cornmeal Muffins, 17 Lemon Parmesan Beans, 206 Mini Lemon Cream Scones, 46 Shaker Lemon Pie, 89

364  index

Sour Cream Lemon Loaf Cake, 131 Lentil Soup with Red Wine and Parsley, 38 lima beans Fresh Corn and Lima Bean Salad, 216 Sweet Bourbon Baked Beans, 183 limes and lime juice Blueberry Mojito, 165 Cilantro Lime Rice, 62 Kentucky Honey–Lime Grilled Salmon, 144 Mojito, 164 maple syrup, 75 Crunchy Pecan Granola, 171 Fall Salad with Pears and Maple Balsamic Vinaigrette, 265 Maple Mashed Sweet Potatoes, 266 Maple-Roasted Apples and Onions, 249 Rhubarb Crisp with Granola Topping, 139 Spinach and Roasted Sweet Potato Salad with MapleMustard Dressing, 303 mashed potatoes, 78 Fluffiest Mashed Potatoes, 78 Olive Oil Mashed Potatoes, 84 mayonnaise, 173 Cornbread and Tomato Salad, 208 Green Goddess Dressing, 118 Kentucky Dill Dip, 155 Nina’s Potato Salad, 182 Pea and Peanut Salad, 157 Smoky Remoulade Sauce, 262 Steamed Asparagus with Toasted Sesame Mayonnaise, 126 Turnip Greens Dip, 261 meatballs, 35 Buffalo-Style Turkey Meatballs, 54 Homemade Italian Meatballs, 35 mincemeat, Bourbon Mincemeat Pie, 307 mint Blueberry Mojito, 165 Bourbon Mint Slushies, 124 Mint Simple Syrup, 165 Mojito, 164 Moist Carrot Sheet Cake, 192 Moist Grilled Chicken Breast, 205 Mojito, 164, 165 molasses. See sorghum muffins Lemon Blueberry Cornmeal Muffins, 17 Shaker Pumpkin Muffins with Walnuts and Flax Seed, 18 Muffulettas, 101

mushrooms, 99, 343 Chunky Ratatouille, 215 Estill County Shiitake Soup, 129 Mama Maggie’s Italian Meat Sauce, 33 Mushroom and Asparagus Skillet Frittata, 100 Spring Salad with Poppy Seed Dressing, 109 mustard Herb-Crusted Lamb Chops, 133 Mustard-Caper Tartar Sauce, 87 Nina’s Potato Salad, 182 Spinach and Roasted Sweet Potato Salad with MapleMustard Dressing, 303 mustard greens, Spicy Braised Greens, 64 Navy Bean Soup with Ham and Bourbon, 41 Nina’s Coca-Cola Cake, 188 Nina’s Potato Salad, 182 oats, 199, 278 Chocolate Cherry Scones, 47 Creamy Steel-Cut Oats, 199 Crunchy Pecan Granola, 171 Everything Cookies, 104 Multigrain Flapjack Mix, 73 Overnight Oatmeal with Yogurt and Berries, 172 Peach Blueberry Pecan Crisp, 209 Pork Sausage Goetta, 279 Rhubarb Crisp with Granola Topping, 139 Slow Cooker Vegetarian Goetta, 280 okra, Burgoo, 125 olive oil, 13 Olive Oil Mashed Potatoes, 84 olives Chicken Sausage with Squash and Fresh Herbs, 211 Cream Cheese Olive Nut Spread, 221 Greek Salad with Creamy Dressing, 286 Muffulettas, 101 Red Grape, Caramelized Onion, and Goat Cheese Pizza, 274 Roasted Potato Salad with Olives and Capers, 162 Smoked Trout and Watercress Niçoise Salad, 130 onions. See also green onions Maple-Roasted Apples and Onions, 249 Oven-Roasted Root Vegetables, 66 Red Grape, Caramelized Onion, and Goat Cheese Pizza, 274

oranges Blood Orange Ambrosia, 27 Winter Citrus Salad with Arugula, 30 Oven-Baked Pork Barbecue, 176 Oven-Baked Pumpkin Butter, 255 Oven-Baked Sweet Potato Fries, 249 Oven-Fried Boneless Chicken Thighs, 82 Oven-Fried Breakfast Potatoes, 281 Oven-Roasted Bourbon Pork Tenderloin, 167 Oven-Roasted Root Vegetables, 66 Oven-Roasted Sausage with Potatoes and Rosemary, 238 pancakes Mile-High Buttermilk Pancakes, 72 Multigrain Flapjack Mix, 73 Multigrain Flapjacks, 73 Silver Dollar Corncakes, 295 Parmesan cheese Arugula Pesto over Angel-Hair Pasta, 138 Baked Eggs with Parmesan and Herbs, 98 Basil Walnut Pesto, 217 Cornbread and Tomato Salad, 208 Garlic Scape Pesto, 163 Homemade Italian Meatballs, 35 Lemon Parmesan Beans, 206 Modern Caesar Salad with Salt and Pepper Croutons, 67 Mushroom and Asparagus Skillet Frittata, 100 Turnip Greens Dip, 261 parsley Burgoo, 125 Chicken Sausage with Squash and Fresh Herbs, 211 Fresh Parsley Sauce, 24 Green Goddess Dressing, 118 Gremolata Beans, 206 Lentil Soup with Red Wine and Parsley, 38 Roasted Potatoes with Garlic and Parsley, 134 Smoky Remoulade Sauce, 262 Spicy Butternut Squash and Chickpea Stew, 59 Spring Radish Salad, 137 Winter Wheat Berry Salad, 63 parsnips, Oven-Roasted Root Vegetables, 66 pasta, 13, 32 Arugula Pesto over Angel-Hair Pasta, 138 Bowtie Pasta with Spinach and Almonds, 155

Creamy Penne and Cheese, 87 White Bean Soup with Pasta and Kale, 36 peaches, 10, 208 Cream Biscuits with Fruit, 311 Crunchy Pecan Granola, 171 Fresh Peach Salsa, 213 Peach Blueberry Pecan Crisp, 209 peanut butter, Buckeyes, 329 peanuts, Pea and Peanut Salad, 157 pears Apple Pear Pecan Crisp, 209 Endive and Pear Salad with Walnuts, 318 Fall Salad with Pears and Maple Balsamic Vinaigrette, 265 peas, 11. See also black-eyed peas; snow peas Cornbread and Tomato Salad, 208 Pea and Peanut Salad, 157 pecans, 267, 343 Apple Pear Pecan Crisp, 209 Blueberry Spinach Salad, 160 Bluegrass Piettes, 127 Brown Sugar Spiced Nuts, 325 Chocolate Fudge Frosting, 194 Concord Grape Piettes with Pecan Streusel Topping, 268 Cream Cheese Olive Nut Spread, 221 Crunchy Pecan Granola, 171 Deep Dish Bourbon Brown Sugar Apple Pie, 271 Dried Cherry and Pecan Chicken Salad, 220 Everything Cookies, 104 Fresh Blackberry Sheet Cake, 189 Italian Cream Sheet Cake, 112 Margaret’s Bourbon Balls, 328 Moist Carrot Sheet Cake, 192 One-Pan Chocolate Chip Pecan Blondies, 223 One-Pan Pecan Brownies, 94 Peach Blueberry Pecan Crisp, 209 Pecan-Crusted Kentucky Rainbow Trout, 91 Rhubarb Crisp with Granola Topping, 139 Shaker Pumpkin Muffins with Walnuts and Flax Seed, 18 Sour Cream Coffee Cake, 230–231 Spinach and Roasted Sweet Potato Salad with MapleMustard Dressing, 303 Sweet Potatoes with Pecan Topping, 304 Tiny Fruitcake Cookies, 330 Winter Chopped Salad, 22 Peggy’s Corn Pudding, 302 Pendennis Club Punch, Carl’s, 298

pickles, 338 Bread and Butter Freezer Pickles, 218 pie crust, 45 All-Butter Pie Crust, 90 Cream Cheese Pastry, 269 pies and piettes Bluegrass Piettes, 127 Bourbon Chocolate Walnut Pie, 128 Bourbon Mincemeat Pie, 307 Chicken Pie, 28–29 Concord Grape Piettes with Pecan Streusel Topping, 268 Deep-Dish Bourbon Brown Sugar Apple Pie, 271 Shaker Lemon Pie, 89 Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Brown Sugar Bourbon Whipped Cream, 306 pimientos Grilled White Cheddar Pimiento Cheese Sandwiches with Tomato, 102 White Cheddar Pimiento Cheese Sandwiches, 102 pineapple, 11 Blood Orange Ambrosia, 27 pizza Cornmeal Pizza Dough, 272 Red Grape, Caramelized Onion, and Goat Cheese Pizza, 274 Thirty-Minute Pizza Sauce, 273 popcorn, Kentucky Kettle Corn, 326 poppy seeds Poppy Seed Coleslaw, 179 Spring Salad with Poppy Seed Dressing, 109 pork, 6, 176, 278, 284, 343. See also bacon; ham; sausage Ale-8 One Slow Cooker Pork Barbecue, 175 Grilled Bourbon Pork Tenderloin, 167 Herbed Pork Sausage Patties, 281 Oven-Baked Pork Barbecue, 176 Pork Sausage Goetta, 279 Slow-Roasted Pork Shoulder, 23 Smoked Pork Shoulder, 176 potatoes, 10, 78, 182. See also sweet potatoes Fluffiest Mashed Potatoes, 78 Fresh Salmon Chowder, 40 Nina’s Potato Salad, 182 Olive Oil Mashed Potatoes, 84 Oven-Fried Breakfast Potatoes, 281 Oven-Roasted Sausage with Potatoes and Rosemary, 238 Potato Soup with White Cheddar and Ale, 39

index  365

potatoes (continued) Roasted Potatoes with Garlic and Parsley, 134 Roasted Potato Salad with Olives and Capers, 162 Smoked Trout and Watercress Niçoise Salad, 130 preserves, 197–198, 218, 337 Bread and Butter Freezer Pickles, 218 Concord Grape Preserves, 256 Homemade Strawberry Freezer Jam, 150 Oven-Baked Pumpkin Butter, 255 Provolone cheese, Muffulettas, 101 pudding, Warm Bread Pudding with Kentucky Bourbon Sauce, 25 pumpkin Oven-Baked Pumpkin Butter, 255 Shaker Pumpkin Muffins with Walnuts and Flax Seed, 18 Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Brown Sugar Bourbon Whipped Cream, 306 pumpkin seeds Mixed Greens with Pumpkin Seeds and Dried Cranberries, 248 Spinach and Roasted Sweet Potato Salad with MapleMustard Dressing, 303 radicchio, Winter Chopped Salad, 22 radishes, Spring Radish Salad, 137 raisins Bourbon Mincemeat Pie, 307 Broccoli, Apple, Raisin Salad, 275 Crunchy Pecan Granola, 171 Curried Chickpeas with Golden Raisins, 57 Deep-Dish Bourbon Brown Sugar Apple Pie, 271 Everything Cookies, 104 Fresh Blackberry Sheet Cake, 189 Moist Carrot Sheet Cake, 192 Shaker Pumpkin Muffins with Walnuts and Flax Seed, 18 Stone-Ground Grits with Kentucky Honey and Dried Fruit, 200 Tiny Fruitcake Cookies, 330 Warm Bread Pudding with Kentucky Bourbon Sauce, 25 Ratatouille, Chunky, 215 Red Beans and Rice with Chili Vinaigrette, 157 Relish, Bourbon Cranberry, 305 Remoulade Sauce, Smoky, 262

366  index

Rhubarb Crisp with Granola Topping, 139 rice, 61 Cardamom Brown Rice, 62 Cilantro Lime Rice, 62 Red Beans and Rice with Chili Vinaigrette, 157 Smoky Chili Non Carne, 289 Yellow Basmati Rice Pilaf, 24 Roasted Asparagus, 108 Roasted Brined Chicken, 264–265 Roasted Brined Turkey, 299 Roasted Potatoes with Garlic and Parsley, 134 Roasted Potato Salad with Olives and Capers, 162 Roasted Tenderloin of Beef, 316 Root Beer Sloppy Joes, 247 Root Vegetables, Oven-Roasted, 66 salad dressings, 113, 117 Chili Vinaigrette, 157 Fresh Chive Vinaigrette, 132 Green Goddess Dressing, 118 Honey Lemon Vinaigrette, 116 Hot Bacon Vinaigrette, 114 Maple Balsamic Vinaigrette, 265 Maple-Mustard Dressing, 303 Poppy Seed Dressing, 109 Sunflower Herb Dressing, 117 Sweet Garlic Dressing, 116 Warren’s Vinaigrette for Mixed Greens, 118 salads, 83, 113–115, 182. See also salad dressings; slaws Bibb Lettuce with Fresh Chive Vinaigrette, 132 Blood Orange Ambrosia, 27 Blueberry Spinach Salad, 160 Bowtie Pasta with Spinach and Almonds, 155 Broccoli, Apple, Raisin Salad, 275 Cornbread and Tomato Salad, 208 Dried Cherry and Pecan Chicken Salad, 220 Endive and Pear Salad with Walnuts, 318 Fall Salad with Pears and Maple Balsamic Vinaigrette, 265 Fresh Corn and Lima Bean Salad, 216 Greek Salad with Creamy Dressing, 286 Mixed Greens Salad with Sweet Garlic Dressing, 116 Mixed Greens with Pumpkin Seeds and Dried Cranberries, 248 Modern Caesar Salad with Salt and Pepper Croutons, 67 Nina’s Potato Salad, 182

Pea and Peanut Salad, 157 Red Beans and Rice with Chili Vinaigrette, 157 Roasted Potato Salad with Olives and Capers, 162 Smoked Trout and Watercress Niçoise Salad, 130 Spinach and Roasted Sweet Potato Salad with MapleMustard Dressing, 303 Spring Radish Salad, 137 Spring Salad with Poppy Seed Dressing, 109 Watermelon and Cucumber Salad, 207 Wilted Lettuce with Hot Bacon Vinaigrette, 114 Winter Chopped Salad, 22 Winter Citrus Salad with Arugula, 30 Winter Wheat Berry Salad, 63 salmon Fresh Salmon Chowder, 40 Kentucky Honey–Lime Grilled Salmon, 144 Pan-Roasted Salmon, 80 salsa. see sauces sandwiches Almond-Crusted Grouper Sandwiches, 86 Bacon Benedictine Sandwiches, 222 Bluegrass Cheese Burgers, 143 Buffalo Sliders with Smoky Remoulade Sauce, 262 Cream Cheese Olive Nut Spread, 221 Grilled White Cheddar Pimiento Cheese Sandwiches with Tomato, 102 Muffulettas, 101 Root Beer Sloppy Joes, 247 White Cheddar Pimiento Cheese Sandwiches, 102 sauces. See also salad dressings Arugula Pesto over Angel-Hair Pasta, 138 Basil Walnut Pesto, 217 Bourbon Cranberry Relish, 305 Brown Sugar Bourbon Barbecue Sauce, 178 Fresh Parsley Sauce, 24 Fresh Peach Salsa, 213 Garlic Scape Pesto, 163 Mama Maggie’s Italian Meat Sauce, 33 Margaret’s Chili Sauce (Mamaw’s Ketchup), 219 Mustard-Caper Tartar Sauce, 87 Oven-Baked Pumpkin Butter, 255 Red Wine Pan Sauce, 65

Rich Chocolate Sauce, 69 Smoky Remoulade Sauce, 262 Smoky Tomato Salsa, 214 Spicy Marinara Sauce, 34 Thirty-Minute Pizza Sauce, 273 Warren’s Henry Bain–Style Barbecue Sauce, 178 sausage, 238, 344 Chicken Sausage with Squash and Fresh Herbs, 211 Herbed Pork Sausage Patties, 281 Kentucky Cornbread Strata, 120 Oven-Roasted Sausage with Potatoes and Rosemary, 238 Pork Sausage Goetta, 279 Shrimp and Creamy Grits, 235 scones, 45 Apricot White Chocolate Scones, 47 Chocolate Cherry Scones, 47 Kentucky Coffee Tree Scones, 48 Mini Lemon Cream Scones, 46 seafood. See fish; shrimp Sesame Ginger Beans, 206 Shaker Cornsticks, 292 Shaker Lemon Pie, 89 Shaker Pumpkin Muffins with Walnuts and Flax Seed, 18 shellfish. See shrimp Shortbread Cutouts, 327 shrimp, 233–234, 344 Peel-’n’-Eat Barbecue Shrimp, 236 Shrimp and Creamy Grits, 235 simple syrup Brown Sugar Simple Syrup, 332 Fresh Herbed Lemonade, 184 Herb Simple Syrup, 165 Mint Simple Syrup, 165 Skillet Red Beans, 58 slaws Curry Coleslaw, 179 Like-Popeye’s Fried Chicken Coleslaw, 179 Poppy Seed Coleslaw, 179 Red Cabbage Hot Slaw, 239 Sunflower Slaw, 180 Sweet and Sour Creamy Coleslaw, 179 slow-cooked food, 338 Ale-8 One Slow Cooker Pork Barbecue, 175 Slow Cooker Vegetarian Goetta, 280 Slow-Roasted Pork Shoulder, 23 Smoked Pork Shoulder, 176 Smoked Trout and Watercress Nicoise Salad, 130 Smoky Black Beans with Sweet Potatoes, 56

Smoky Chili Non Carne, 289 Smoky Remoulade Sauce, 262 Smoky Tomato Sauce, 214 snow peas. See also peas Estill County Shiitake Soup, 129 Spring Salad with Poppy Seed Dressing, 109 Soda Bread, Cast-Iron Skillet, 79 sorghum, 245, 344 Brown Sugar Bourbon Barbecue Sauce, 178 Burgoo, 125 Crunchy Pecan Granola, 171 Gingerbread with Sorghum, 250 Sour Cream Gingerbread Waffles, 254 Warren’s Henry Bain-Style Barbecue Sauce, 178 soups and chowders, 37. See also chili Estill County Shiitake Soup, 129 Fresh Salmon Chowder, 40 Lentil Soup with Red Wine and Parsley, 38 Navy Bean Soup with Ham and Bourbon, 41 Potato Soup with White Cheddar and Ale, 39 Sweet Potato Vegetable Soup, 42 White Bean Soup with Pasta and Kale, 36 sour cream Greek Salad with Creamy Dressing, 286 Kentucky Dill Dip, 155 Sour Cream Coffee Cake, 230–231 Sour Cream Gingerbread Waffles, 254 Sour Cream Lemon Loaf Cake, 131 Sour Cream Whipped Cream, 242 Turnip Greens Dip, 261 soy sauce (tamari), 63, 344 Cola Pot Roast, 81 Grilled Bourbon Pork Tenderloin, 167 Winter Wheat Berry Salad, 63 spices, 282–283, 288 Spicy Braised Greens, 64 Spicy Butternut Squash and Chickpea Stew, 59 Spicy Cheese Wafers, 324 Spicy Garlic Beer Cheese, 154 Spicy Marinara Sauce, 34 Spicy Seasoning Mix, 93 Spicy Stewed Black-Eyed Peas and Kale, 31 spinach, 10 Blueberry Spinach Salad, 160 Bowtie Pasta with Spinach and Almonds, 155

Spinach and Roasted Sweet Potato Salad with MapleMustard Dressing, 303 Spring Salad with Poppy Seed Dressing, 109 Winter Chopped Salad, 22 Split Grilled Chicken, 145, 146 Spoonbread, Whole-Egg, 135 Spring Radish Salad, 137 Spring Salad with Poppy Seed Dressing, 109 squash. See butternut squash; summer squash Steamed Asparagus with Toasted Sesame Mayonnaise, 126 stews. See also chili Burgoo, 125 Kentucky Barrel Ale Stew, 77 Spicy Butternut Squash and Chickpea Stew, 59 Spicy Stewed Black-Eyed Peas and Kale, 31 Stovetop Bourbon Barbecue Chicken, 246 Stone-Ground Cornmeal Hush Puppies, 88 Stone-Ground Grits with Kentucky Honey and Dried Fruit, 200 Stovetop Bourbon Barbecue Chicken, 246 strawberries, 10 Cream Biscuits with Fruit, 311 Fresh Strawberries with Vanilla Bourbon Zabaglione, 136 Homemade Strawberry Freezer Jam, 150 Overnight Oatmeal with Yogurt and Berries, 172 Spring Salad with Poppy Seed Dressing, 109 summer squash Chicken Sausage with Squash and Fresh Herbs, 211 Chunky Ratatouille, 215 sunflower seeds Everything Cookies, 104 Sunflower Herb Dressing, 117 Sunflower Slaw, 180 sweet potatoes, 11. See also potatoes Maple Mashed Sweet Potatoes, 266 Oven-Baked Sweet Potato Fries, 249 Smoky Black Beans with Sweet Potatoes, 56 Spinach and Roasted Sweet Potato Salad with MapleMustard Dressing, 303 Sweet Potatoes with Pecan Topping, 304

index  367

sweet potatoes (continued) Sweet Potato Vegetable Soup, 42 Sweet Potato Vegetable Soup with Kale, 42 tamari. See soy sauce (tamari) tea, 45, 129, 344 Arnold Palmer, 185 Bourbon Mint Slushies, 124 Sweet Iced Tea, 185 tomatoes, 13, 218 Bowtie Pasta with Spinach and Almonds, 155 Braised Kale with Diced Tomato, 266 Burgoo, 125 Chunky Ratatouille, 215 Cornbread and Tomato Salad, 208 Cornmeal-Crusted Fried Green Tomatoes, 181 Curried Chickpeas with Golden Raisins, 57 Fresh Corn and Lima Bean Salad, 216 Grilled White Cheddar Pimiento Cheese Sandwiches with Tomato, 102 Lentil Soup with Red Wine and Parsley, 38 Mama Maggie’s Italian Meat Sauce, 33 Margaret’s Chili Sauce (Mamaw’s Ketchup), 219 Shrimp and Creamy Grits, 235 Skillet Red Beans, 58 Smoked Trout and Watercress Niçoise Salad, 130 Smoky Chili Non Carne, 289 Smoky Tomato Salsa, 214 Spicy Butternut Squash and Chickpea Stew, 59 Spicy Marinara Sauce, 34 Sweet Potato Vegetable Soup, 42 Thirty-Minute Pizza Sauce, 273 Vista Grand Buffalo or Venison Chili, 290 Watermelon and Cucumber Salad, 207 White Bean Soup with Pasta and Kale, 36

368  index

tomato paste, 13 tortillas, Black Bean Burritos, 60 turkey, 8, 141, 296, 343 Buffalo-Style Turkey Meatballs, 54 Herbed Pork Sausage Patties, 281 Homemade Italian Meatballs, 35 Muffuletas, 101  Roasted Brined Turkey, 299, 300  Root Beer Sloppy Joes, 247 turnip greens Spicy Braised Greens, 64 Turnip Greens Dip, 261 Vanilla Bean Cream Cheese Frosting, 193 Vanilla Bourbon Cup Custards, 29 Vanilla Bourbon Zabaglione, Fresh Strawberries with, 136 Vanilla Ice Cream, Homemade, 195 venison, Vista Grand Buffalo or Venison Chili, 290 waffles Cornmeal Waffles, 253 Homemade Waffle Cones, 196 Sour Cream Gingerbread Waffles, 254 walnuts. See also black walnuts Arugula Pesto over Angel-Hair Pasta, 138 Banana Bourbon Walnut French Toast, 149 Basil Walnut Pesto, 217 Bourbon Chocolate Walnut Pie, 128 Bourbon Walnut Cream Cheese Frosting, 193 Brown Sugar Spiced Nuts, 325 Chocolate Fudge Frosting, 194 Deep-Dish Bourbon Brown Sugar Apple Pie, 271 Endive and Pear Salad with Walnuts, 318 Everything Cookies, 104 Fall Salad with Pears and Maple Balsamic Vinaigrette, 265 Garlic Scape Pesto, 163 Garlic Walnut Spread, 333 Moist Carrot Sheet Cake, 192 Overnight Oatmeal with Yogurt and Berries, 172

Rhubarb Crisp with Granola Topping, 139 Shaker Pumpkin Muffins with Walnuts and Flax Seed, 18 Sour Cream Coffee Cake, 230 Tiny Fruitcake Cookies, 330 Watermelon and Cucumber Salad, 207 Warren’s Henry Bain–Style Barbecue Sauce, 178 Warren’s Vinaigrette for Mixed Greens, 118 watercress Smoked Trout and Watercress Niçoise Salad, 130 White Cheddar Pimiento Cheese Sandwiches, 102 watermelon, 11 Watermelon and Cucumber Salad, 207 wheat berries, Winter Wheat Berry Salad, 63 whipped cream, 242 Brown Sugar Bourbon Whipped Cream, 69 Cream Biscuits, 311 Fresh Strawberries with Vanilla Bourbon Zabaglione, 136 Sour Cream Whipped Cream, 242 White Bean and Chicken Chili, 53 white chocolate, Apricot White Chocolate Scones, 47 Wilted Lettuce with Hot Bacon Vinaigrette, 114 wine, 9 Carl’s Pendennis Club Punch, 298 Flank Steak with Red Wine Pan Sauce, 65 Kentucky Wine Cooler Slush, 210 Lentil Soup with Red Wine and Parsley, 38 Oven-Roasted Sausage with Potatoes and Rosemary, 238 yams. See sweet potatoes Zabaglione, Fresh Strawberries with Vanilla Bourbon, 136 zucchini. See summer squash