Lingerie Insight 2017-07

JULY 2017 / VOL 08 ISSUE 03 www.lingerieinsight.com

MODE CITY PREVIEW: HIGHLIGHTS FROM THE PARIS EXPO SWIMWEAR INSIGHT: A SHOWCASE OF SS18 NEWS AND TRENDS

Exclusive interview

BRAVISSIMO’S CLARE HARRIS TALKS RETAIL GROWTH AND NEW PROJECTS

Bralette discussion

IS THE NON-WIRED BRA A BLESSING OR A BURDEN ON OUR INDUSTRY?

MAGIC TOUCH

DIRECTOR OF LINGERIE SOLUTIONS BRAND MAGIC BODYFASHION ON BEST-SELLERS, NEW PRODUCTS AND GLOBAL EXPANSION PLANS

MODE CITY, PARIS – STAND J73 JULY 8th – 10th 2017

LONDON SHOWROOM [email protected] JULY 11th – AUG 18th 2017

Contents VOLUME 08 • ISSUE 03

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5 | Front

The latest headlines A round-up of this month’s top stories from lingerie, hosiery, nightwear and swimwear industries.

Graaff, the brand has evolved to become an all-in-one solutions brand. In an interview with Lingerie Insight, Leestemaker discusses best-sellers and future plans.

8 | First Stitch

19 | INDX preview

Twisted Lingerie

What to expect

Twisted Lingerie, a new start-up based in London, has launched its debut collection with fetishist inspirations and accessible pricing. Created by women for women, the brand aims to fill the gap between “cheap and tacky” and “super high-end” provocative lingerie. Founder Sophie Thorne tells us more.

UK lingerie and swimwear trade show INDX Intimate Apparel will return next month with more than double the usual number exhibitors, proving the continued demand for industry exhibitions in today’s market. In an exclusive interview, chief organiser Amanda Partridge picks out the highlights from the show.

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12 | Bravissimo

Exclusive interview

22 | Bralette debate

Bravissimo product director Clare Harris explains how the fuller-bust lingerie and swimwear retailer is bucking the trend for declining sales on the high street and reveals her team’s plans for future growth.

Industry analysis

18 | Lingerie solutions

The unstoppable underwear as outerwear and athleisure trends have driven a huge uplift in bralette sales in the first three months of 2017, but to what impact on constructed underwired styles, which were born out of a need to fit and support global consumers?

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Magic Body Fashion Magic BodyFashion was one of the first companies to introduce shapewear and problem-solving bras in the eighties. Now under the direction of Linda Leestemaker and Marc de

Paris preview Highlights of the seasonal trade show, which takes place in Paris this month

25 | Contour Fashion

Student designs

19 25

22 28

Industry giants have hailed a successful 2017 Contour Fashion show hosted by De Montfort University in London last month. Lingerie Insight reports on what talent scouts had to say about the next generation of lingerie and swimwear designers.

34 | Social Lite

Party pics The people, the places and the scenes at the most glamorous industry events. www.lingerieinsight.co.uk July 2017 LINGERIEINSIGHT

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COMMENT

WELCOME

Give it up for the lingerie multiples! Times are hard in the retail sector. After the Easter boost in shopper numbers to high street destinations, footfall has lost momentum in the last two months, which has been mirrored in recent sales figures. Even online sales have been hit by rising inflation and political uncertainty following the snap general election and the Hung Parliament result. On top of all this, rising business rates and a drop in consumer spending have forced retailers like Simply Be to close their lossmaking stores. Yet, despite the general feeling of doom and gloom on the high street, there’s something exciting happening among Britain’s biggest lingerie and swimwear multiples. Boux Avenue, for example, has grown its sales to reach £44.4m and built a credible nationwide presence, with 28 UK stores opened since it launched in 2011. It has also broken ground on a new 90,000ft2 warehouse, set to be fully operational by Christmas, to meet the rising demand for its lingerie and swimwear styles internationally. Ann Summers, meanwhile, is ramping up its presence on the high street, opening new shops in major shopping destinations like Queensgate shopping centre in Peterborough and rolling out a new store design across the rest of its estate. Fuller-bust lingerie and swimwear retailer Bravissimo has also been making the headlines this year with a wave of new store openings. The company now has 26 shops open across the country, with the 27th opening in Chelmsford this summer, and has recently relocated its Cardiff and Liverpool store to prime shopping locations. So what’s driving this inspiring trend among multiples? In an interview with Lingerie Insight, Bravissimo product manager Clare Harris explains that it is a sign that multiples are in growth mode and feeling confident about investing in bricks and mortar. She also discusses new projects and expansion plans in a special feature on page 12. Also in this issue, we’ve published a preview of some of the lingerie and swimwear collections set be presented at Mode City, Paris this month, and brands and retailers discuss major trends in the industry, including the swimsuit revival and the surge in bralette sales. Enjoy the issue!

Sarah Clarke

EDITOR, LINGERIE INSIGHT

ITP PROMEDIA PUBLISHING 16-25 Bastwick Street, London, EC1V 3PS, UK Tel: +44 (0) 20 31 764228 Fax: +44 (0) 20 31 764231 EDITORIAL Editor Sarah Clarke [email protected] Tel: +44 (0) 20 3176 5457 Editorial Assistant Emma Calder [email protected] Tel: +44 (0)2031764238 COMMERCIAL Group Commercial Manager Anne-Marie Judge [email protected] Tel: +44 (0)20 3176 5632

DESIGN Designed in conjunction with Wercreative www.wercreative.in

DIGITAL Database Management Vinod Alath, [email protected] PRODUCTION & DISTRIBUTION Group Production & Distribution Director Kyle Smith, [email protected] Production & Systems Manager Danny Corder, [email protected] Outsourcing Manager Aamar Shawwa, [email protected] CIRCULATION SUBSCRIPTIONS Customer Service +44 (0) 20 3176 4228 [email protected] Web www.lingerieInsight.com www.ITPPromedia.com Printed by: Henry Stone Ltd The publishers regret that they cannot accept liability for error or omissions in this publication, however caused. The opinions and views contained in this publication are not necessarily those of the publishers. Readers are advised to seek specialist advice before acting on information contained in this publication, which is provided for general use and may not be appropriate for the readers’ particular circumstances. The ownership of trademarks is acknowledged. No part of this publication or any part of the contents thereof may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form without the permission of the publishers in writing. An exception is hereby granted for extracts used for the purpose of fair review.

July Cover Models wear: Bralettes and briefs from Magic Bodyfashion’s new Dream collection.

Published by and copyright 2017 Promedia Ltd, incorporated and registered in the British Virgin Islands under company number 1559854.

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LINGERIEINSIGHT July 2017 www.lingerieinsight.co.uk

NEWS REVIEW

THIS MONTH IN LINGERIE AND SWIMWEAR

FRONT

NEWS IN BRIEF FIRST STITCH WEB HIGHLIGHTS

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Coco de Mer managing director leads buyout of lingerie business

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oco de Mer, the luxury lingerie and erotica fashion house, has completed the sale of the business in an MBO led by its managing director Lucy Litwack. Litwack, who took the reins of the company in 2014, was backed by unnamed international institutional investors to buy the business from owner Lovehoney, an

online lingerie and sex toy retailer operated by Richard Longhurst and Neil Slateford. Commenting on the buyout, she said: “The MBO and new funds provide us with a strong platform and supports our strategy to grow the business internationally at the luxury end of the market where Coco de Mer is already well positioned and has a very strong customer base.”

Litwack has 17 years’ of lingerie and luxury retail experience, having previously worked in management positions at La Perla, Victoria’s Secret, Myla and Bendon. She also developed and launched David Beckham’s Bodywear range globally through H&M. The Coco de Mer business currently operates online and

from its London boutique in Covent Garden. Coco de Mer’s 2015 collaboration with fashion photographer Rankin and Walter Campbell, the creative director of advertising agency TWBA/London, was crucial in introducing a new generation of web shoppers to Coco de Mer. story continues on page 7

FOR THE LATEST LINGERIE INDUSTRY NEWS AND INSIGHT HEAD TO www.lingerieinsight.co.uk July 2017 LINGERIEINSIGHT

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FRONT NEWS REVIEW

news review Ralph Lauren, Ralph Lauren swimwear, Hot Sox, Pantone Socks and Raville sleepwear. Chapman will represent the business at Mode City, Paris this month.

Ade Hassan, the founder and director of lingerie and hosiery brand Nubian Skin, has been named in the 2017 Queen’s Birthday Honours list to receive an MBE for services to fashion. The award was made in recognition of Hassan’s commitment to her mission to redefine nude through her brand, and the impact she has consequently made on the fashion industry. After years of development, Hassan created Nubian Skin in 2013 and launched the brand in late 2014. Frustrated by the lack of diversity in nude lingerie and hosiery, she decided to create something she was unable to find. On the honour, she said: “I am so humbled and incredibly grateful to be receiving this. It’s not something I could ever have imagined.” Intimate apparel distributor F1-Generation has appointed Emma Chapman as its new sales director for the UK Ireland. Chapman has joined the company from Bendon, where she worked across numerous roles, including key account manager and retail manager, for 13 years. In her new position, she is responsible for managing the brands that F1 distributes in the UK and Ireland, such as Polo

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Heritage brand Naturana is inviting industry buyers to view the latest collection from its luxury Eva label at an exclusive event in London this month. The group will present the brand at the Old Brompton Gallery in Knightsbridge on July

psychiatric nurse. Gray’s case was adjourned until July 28, pending the preparation of psychiatric reports, and she was granted bail. But Recorder Justin Wigoder warned that when the case is dealt with, a lengthy custodial sentence was “almost inevitable”. House of Fraser has topped a list of the best multichannel retailers in the UK. The department store chain was ranked with the highest score out of 187 retailers in the 2017 Multichannel Retail Report compiled by Ampersand. According to Ampersand, HoF excelled at website navigation, having a transactional mobile website, offering a variety of delivery options including locker collection, next day click & collect and geolocation on mobile and desktop. Reckless Wolf has made an industry comeback with

20-21. Lingerie, swimwear and loungewear styles from Eva’s SS18 range will be modelled and displayed at the invitation-only event. A woman who stole £227,000 from a lingerie manufacturer in Market Harborough is expected to face a jail sentence. Appearing at Leicester Crown Court, Deborah Gray pleaded guilty to theft from GJ Waller & Co, which produces ladies thermal and cotton underwear, between January 2007 and June 2015. She also admitted false accounting between the same dates, reports the Leicester Mercury. According to her barrister, James Bide-Thomas, Gray has underlying mental health difficulties and is under the care of a community

LINGERIEINSIGHT July 2017 www.lingerieinsight.co.uk

a knockout campaign, after a few seasons away from the spotlight. The Fight Club campaign features a series of images starring strong female models holding their own against men in the boxing ring. It has been launched to promote the new Fight Club collection, made up of sheer black

underwear featuring functional lines, multiple textures, bold prints and innovative cut-outs. Reckless Wolf is a British independent designer of premium lingerie. It was launched in 2013 by founder Jade Little, who’s aim is to create a diverse collection fusing underwear and outerwear. Dessous London, a new intimate apparel trade show taking place in the capital this month, will see the UK trade launch of Dita Von Teese Lingerie. The creative team behind The Lingerie Edit will open the two-day exhibition at Carousel London on July 19 with the aim of reinterpreting the traditional trade show format by offering a touch of ‘theatre’ to stimulate and excite buyers. Dita Von Teese Lingerie will present sensual, vintage and old Hollywood glamour-inspired pieces, including a seven-piece capsule collection created in collaboration with Christian Louboutin. Dessous London will also see the exclusive wholesale launch of Alexandra Miro, which has developed a range of premium swimsuits. Designs from shapewear and legwear brand ITEM m6 and Loveday London will also be presented.

NEWS REVIEW

story continued from page 5

The partners produced X – an online and cinema ad, which was a huge global hit, with key sites such as Vogue, GQ and WWD picking up news of the launch. Later in the year, Coco de Mer launched its own-brand range of decadent lingerie, which is now stocked at Selfridges, Matches.com and Harrods. One of the brand’s greatest successes in 2016 was the launch of its Fifty Shades Darker collection designed in collaboration with EL James. More recently, Coco de Mer unveiled its Icons collection in a campaign fronted by actress and model Pamela Anderson. The brand showcased exclusive imagery staring Anderson at an event at

FRONT

Albert’s Club in London on April 3. Anderson will work with the boudoir brand on a number of joint projects to engage with customers around the world. Commenting on the future of Coco de Mer, Litwack said: “Coco de Mer has a well-established core client base which is truly international and we see a number of avenues for growth in the current business. The desirable brand has a strong following and we will be continuing to develop and expand its global profile. “There are many more opportunities for Coco de Mer as we continue to develop new channels of business across a number of territories. I look forward to collaborating with new partners in the worlds of art, design and fashion.”

Pamela Anderson fronts the Icons campaign for Coco de Mer

www.lingerieinsight.co.uk July 2017 LINGERIEINSIGHT

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FRONT NEWS REVIEW

news review

Thirteen of the world’s biggest clothing and textile companies have thrown their weight behind a new sustainable cotton initiative launched by the Prince of Wales. Through the initiative, organised by The Prince of Wales’s International Sustainability Unit in collaboration with Marks & Spencer and the Soil Association, these companies have committed to ensuring that 100% of the cotton they use comes from

sustainable sources by 2025. Signatories to the communiqué include ASOS, H&M, Marks & Spencer and Tesco. The pledge encourages retailers and brands to work with existing standards, including Fairtrade, to certify their sustainable cotton. INVISTA, owner of the Lycra brand, and Penn Textile Solutions, a German textile mill, have teamed up to develop a new line of highperformance fabrics for the lingerie and athleisure markets. The new collection, to be presented at Interfilière Paris from July 8-10, includes a series of shapewear fabrics and a new generation of ‘power lace’. Dreamshape, made with Lycra Beauty fibre, features a leaf design and a tummy flattening ‘power zone’ for targeting shaping. The Power lace series was made using Lycra Beauty and micro modal cotton following a consumer demand for natural comfort.

Topshop has taken stock of Bluebella after lifting its restrictions on branded lingerie deliveries. Bluebella is now available at the group’s flagship store on Oxford Street as well as online. In February, Lingerie Insight learned that Topshop was prohibiting the intake of branded lingerie collections. Multiple suppliers were notified by the fashion retailer that intake targets have been cut, with management putting restrictions in place to accept own-buy stock only.

down from his role at the fashion retailer. After almost five years at the company, which owns JD Williams, Jacamo and Simply Be, Higginson has decided to pursue new opportunities in private equity. N Brown said Higginson will remain as chairman during the search for his replacement. CEO Angela Spindler said: “Andy has led the group during a period of significant transformation and his dedication had made a significant contribution to this process.”

N Brown chairman Andrew Higginson will step

First Stitch CELEBRATING EMERGING TALENT Twisted Lingerie, a new start-up based in London, has launched its debut collection with fetishist inspirations and accessible pricing. Created by women for women, the brand aims to fill the gap between “cheap and tacky” and “super high-end” provocative lingerie. Founder Sophie Thorne tells us more. Lingerie Insight: How would you describe your debut collection? Sophie Thorne: The collection started with a desire to peel back the layers

of what it means to feel sexually empowered and to blur the lines between underwear and outerwear. It resulted in a mix and match collection, which makes a statement whether it’s concealed under a suit or worn at night.

LI: Where does Twisted sit within the UK lingerie market? ST: Twisted was created to fill a gap in the market, offering seductive lingerie lingerie with all the style and attitude of luxury designer brands, but none of the price tag.

cater to a wider selection of women.

LI: What are your size ranges? ST: All the pieces in our collection come in small (UK 8-10), medium (UK 12-14) and large (UK 16). We are working on expanding our size range so that we can

LI: What are the next steps for the brand? ST: We’re currently working on a series of smaller collections to complement our existing range, and have some exciting collaborations coming up later this year. Watch this space!

LI: What are your price points? ST: Our collection ranges from £17 to £38 – our playsuit being the most expensive piece. Also, as part of our commitment to affordable pricing, students get 10% off.

Are you an emerging brand and want to be featured in First Stitch? Email [email protected]

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LINGERIEINSIGHT July 2017 www.lingerieinsight.co.uk

T H E F LO R A L E CO L L EC T I O N Inspired by Triumph’s heritage in considered design and expert craftsmanship, Florale by Triumph is a premium collection of luxurious, decorative and figure-flattering lingerie for the sophisticated, mature woman. Led by the popular Peony Florale series, Spring Summer 2018 introduces exquisite designs inspired by exotic florals Azalea and Jasmin and features the innovative Ergoline Wire, spacer cup technology and signature 4-section wired cup for enhanced support and comfort. Florale by Triumph is the perfect choice for an elegant and timeless everyday style.

F I N D T H E O N E T H AT M A K E S Y O U F E E L E L E G A N T TRIUMPH.COM

MOST READ ONLINE

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10

Editor’s Choice

Creative design student grows lingerie from home Industry giants praise 2017 Contour Fashion Show Coco de Mer MD leads buyout of business Worker admits to stealing £227,000 from lingerie firm

COLLECTION

VIDEO

Zoggs swimwear SS18

Interview: Gillian Proctor

The sports swimwear has spelled out its fashion-focused intentions with a new range of prints.

The head of Contour Fashion at DMU delves into the history of the course as it marks its 70th year.

NEWS

ANALYSIS

HoF named UK’s best multi-channel retailer

What do consumers want from shapewear?

The department store chain was ranked with the highest score out of 187 retailers.

Experts in the shapewear market discuss what’s driving growth in the sector.

Lingerie brand to help female prisoners find work in fashion SNEAK PEEK: Cosabella lingerie SS18 Naturana marks 100 years with new brand launch Luvli Lounge promotes body confidence on Oxford Street British brand debuts supportive swimbras SNEAK PEEK: Hanro lingerie SS18

Lingerie Tweets

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LINGERIEINSIGHT July 2017 www.lingerieinsight.co.uk

We are super excited to see

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the new Blue Label brand

matched a bra from @uklingerie,

from @naturana_uk at

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Personally, I am skeptical of

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THE TRIACTION COLLECTION Triaction by Triumph is a stylish, high-performance sportswear collection that gives modern women the freedom to train how and when they like. For Spring Summer 2018, Triaction by Triumph introduces, Magic Motion® Pro. Guaranteeing the highest and best bounce control available on the market, the latest cardio series offers stylish fits, softness and breathability thanks to its soft-touch Magic Wire® Air innovation. This season’s collection also features Zip Lite, a new front closure style to the Dynamic Lite series and the launch of active wear, designed to be mix and matched for a super stylish yet functional sportswear outfit, no matter what the activity.

F I N D T H E O N E T H AT M O V E S Y O U TRIUMPH.COM

RETAIL TALK

BRAVISSIMO

Bravo

BRAVISSIMO In an exclusive interview, Bravissimo product manager Clare Harris explains how the fuller-bust lingerie and swimwear retailer is bucking the trend for declining sales on the high street and reveals her team’s plans for future growth

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uller-bust lingerie and swimwear retailer Bravissimo has been making the headlines this year with a wave of new store openings.

The company now has 26 shops open across the country, with the 27th opening in Chelmsford this summer, and has recently relocated its Cardiff and Liverpool stores to prime shopping locations. But the journey to expanding its retail presence in the UK hasn’t always been smooth sailing, with suitable locations being few and far between. In an exclusive interview, Bravissimo product manager Clare Harris reveals the unusual criteria the brand looks for when hunting for new premises. She also discusses the inspirations behind an exciting new design format that is being rolled out into all Bravissimo stores, and a new website design, creating a uniform experience across all channels. Product innovation is another major focus for Bravissimo. Harris’ main aim is to offer customers the best choice in terms of fit, look and feel. The challenge is editing a range that works for big boobs.

What triggered your decision to expand your retail presence? We aim to open three to four shops a year

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and that’s been our focus for quite a while, but it’s really difficult to find the right locations. We’ve been really lucky this year in that we’ve been able to find a few locations in quick succession. What we need in a shop is the opposite of what other retailers need, so because we stock so many sizes – going from a D to an L cup – we need a massive stock room and good size fitting rooms, but it’s okay to have a smaller shop floor. This is the polar opposite of what almost every other retailer looks for in a store. There are still lots of places in the country that our customers want us to be in, but it depends on us finding a location. So

we do a good job on presence from the Midlands upwards and we’ve got some premises in London, but the South and the South West are still massive areas where we don’t have a great retail presence. It’s just a case of a soon as we can find the shops, we will go for it.

What were the inspirations behind your new-look stores? We’re in massive growth mode as a brand and when you are growing it’s really important for every touch point between you and your customer to be as you want it to be. Our retail estate was mixed in terms of shops that have opened recently and shops that hadn’t been touched for a while, so we wanted to make everything uniform. The refit programme that we are undergoing now is actually going to be rolled out to all of our shops and we hope that in the next 12 to 18 months we’ll have refurbed every single one.

How have the new-look stores been received by customers?

Bravissimo product manager Clare Harris

LINGERIEINSIGHT July 2017 www.lingerieinsight.co.uk

The response has been really positive, both in feedback and sales. It’s our aim to get our estate up to that standard as soon as possible so that we can give our customers that great experience, but, as I mentioned, it’s really hard to find new shops, especially given that all our stores

BRAVISSIMO

RETAIL TALK

have completely different layouts. Our Liverpool shop, for example, which has recently moved to Liverpool One, spreads across a ground floor and a mezzanine and has a grand stair case going through the middle of it. For most retailers, this location would be a nightmare because you don’t have a lot of shop floor space, but it’s great for us because it has a fitting area and the stock room size that we need, so we have made it work. And then our Covent Garden store – one of our smaller stores – has a small shop floor and almost an iceberg basement with a massive stock room.

It’s an exciting time for multiple lingerie retailers on the high street, with Ann Summers, Boux Avenue and Bravissimo opening and refurbishing stores. What is driving this trend and what does this say about the lingerie industry as a whole? For us, it’s about being in growth mode and wanting to offer a uniform experience of our brand on every channel, so our website ties into that. I can’t speak for the other retailers, but I think it’s a sign that the industry is healthy and that multiple lingerie retailers feel confident in investing in bricks and mortar. Also, I think it just proves something that I really believe in – that as much as ecommerce is brilliant, you can’t substitute the great experience of a professional bra fitting, and I think it’s great that other retailers are recognising that too. Yes. Partly due to the athleisure movement, retailers diversifying ranges and lingerie being that key purchase for women as other things are dropping off. I think it’s a great time for our industry.

Who are your main competitors?

Bravissimo’s own-brand Bryony bra and matching high waisted brief

This is a really interesting question. I would say, in theory, everybody and, in theory, nobody. So starting of with nobody, I don’t think there is any retailer out there, especially on the high street, that is doing what we are doing in terms of focusing on big-boob lingerie without having that plus-size branch. We are all about big boobs, and that’s very unique to us. On the high street I would absolutely say that we’ve got the biggest collection of cup-size products across different categories that cater for a D cup and above. So in lots of ways we are very unique, but at the same time there are so many women www.lingerieinsight.co.uk July 2017 LINGERIEINSIGHT

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RETAIL TALK

BRAVISSIMO

The new Liverpool One store spreads across two floors and features a grand staircase

who aren’t wearing the right bra size and possibly think they are a B cup, but are actually an E or an F cup. So in that respect I see our competition as everybody on the high street because there are loads of women out there with big boobs who could absolutely shop at Bravissimo. Our aim is to introduce ourselves to them.

You’ve also recently launched a new website. How have in-store sales performed versus online over the last year? We’ve seen sales growth on the year in ecommerce, which is great, but we are one of the few retailers that has seen growth in our shops as well. It’s only been a few weeks since we launched our new website and we’ve still got lots of content that we want to add to it, so the fact that it’s going

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really well so far bodes well for a positive rest of the year.

What other projects have you been working on? One of our biggest projects has been to review our brand, so looking at our tone of voice and our look and feel and making sure that the original spirit of Bravissimo really shines through in everything we do. So that’s coming through in our website, in our shops, in our packaging – every which way our customers have a touch point with our brand. We’ve also been really busy on product, so we’ve been working quite a lot on innovation for big boobs. We launched our first sleep bra in February, which has been really great for us, and we’ve got lots more to come. In general, we’ve been focusing on

LINGERIEINSIGHT July 2017 www.lingerieinsight.co.uk

making sure our range is offering the absolute best choice out there. We want big-boobed women to feel like they’ve got the same choice as their friends who don’t have big boobs and not feel like they are shopping in a specialist retailer. Another really exciting thing that we are working on at the moment is that we are about to launch our first US transactional website. We’ve got a lot of US customers already, who we ship internationally to, but it’s going to mean that we can offer them much better service levels and it also allows to us reach out to new customers in the States.

Which are your current bestselling brands? We stock 18 brands across lingerie, swimwear and own-brand and we buy all

BRAVISSIMO

those brands for very specific reasons. In some styles, we buy up to 90 sizes and every style in our range has a very specific and different use, so it’s quite a hard question to answer. However, there are brands that we have been working with for as long as Bravissimo has been going, so Panache, Fantasie and Freya are household brands for us that are very important to our customers. More recently, we have taken on some brands that are newer for us, so we’ve been introducing Gossard over the past couple of years and that’s been working really well.

Are there any gaps in the market that you hope will be filled?

used in A-D styles into styles and shapes that work for big boobs. Every brand that we buy offers a difference in fit, shape, look and feel, and own-brand is really no different to that. Our own brand is there to complement the whole branded offering and just to provide a different choice to our customers. We are all about fit and support, so we can’t compete brands against each other because what fits one customer isn’t going to fit another. We just aim to offer the best

RETAIL TALK

choice and hopefully any customer who shops with us will find something that they absolutely love.

What are the main challenges you face as a lingerie buyer? Commercially, Brexit is still affecting our industry and Bravissimo is no exception. It has been a challenging time. Costs have risen because of poor exchange rates. More generally, the challenge that I face as a lingerie buyer is buying across such a broad

Inset and below: Inside the new Liverpool One store

I think there are always gaps in the market and there are new gaps appearing all the time. My focus is looking for products that translate the wonderful fabric innovations

www.lingerieinsight.co.uk July 2017 LINGERIEINSIGHT

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RETAIL TALK

BRAVISSIMO

Bravissimo currently stocks 18 brands across lingerie and swimwear, including Cleo Swim by Panache

range of SKUs. Putting together a range that is going to do a brilliant job for customers of all different shapes and sizes and offering them the choice in fit, as well as look and feel, is a bit like a mathematical puzzle. Some customers love a really firm fit, while others like a more natural fit, which is a massive trend that we are seeing at the moment.

Where do you see Bravissimo heading in the future? Our focus is on having a much greater UK retail presence. It’s brilliant that we’ve been able to open so many more shops this year and we will continue to make sure that we hit our targets. We’re taking our brand international – that’s the future for us – and we are focused on driving more innovation for big boobs. Product will always be a real focus for us, whether that’s on our own brand or branded lingerie. We want to drive innovation in order to ensure that everything that’s going on in the lingerie industry is reflected at Bravissimo and we are making it work for big boobs.

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LINGERIEINSIGHT July 2017 www.lingerieinsight.co.uk

ADVERTORIAL

MAGIC BODYFASHION

AS IF BY MAGIC Magic BodyFashion was one of the first companies to introduce shapewear and problem-solving bras in the eighties. Now under the direction of Linda Leestemaker and Marc de Graaff, the brand has evolved to become an all-in-one solutions brand. In an interview with Lingerie Insight, Leestemaker discusses best-sellers, new innovations and future plans

When did you first establish MAGIC Bodyfashion? MAGIC was established 25 years ago. Marc [de Graaff] and I bought the company in 2012 and have been working super hard ever since to really take it to the next level.

How has your product offering evolved since then? The brand was one of the first companies to launch bra solutions and shapewear. Once we optimised comfort and fit within these categories, we progressed to develop shapewear for larger sizes, active wear with shaping functions, shaping hosiery and accessories for shoes. MAGIC Bodyfashion has evolved into a total body solution brand, offering innovative new solutions from head to toe. Adding different categories within our lingerie solutions gives our customers the opportunity to purchase all the lines from one supplier. The advantage for the consumer is that they can find comfortable and reliable solutions to all their lingerie challenges from within the MAGIC Bodyfashion range.

What are your best-selling products? Our backless collection and shapewear are leading categories for MAGIC Bodyfashion. Within our backless collection, the best-sellers are the LUve bra, an adhesive, backless solution with a low U-plunge; Backless Beauty, an adhesive silicone bra; and Magic Lift-its, stick-on silicone cups that lift the bust. In the shapewear category, the best-sellers are the Super Control Body, the High Waist thong and the Slimbody.

What are your price points? Prices vary from £10 to £80.

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How have you grown the business over the last 12 months? We have been achieving double-digit growth over the last 12 months while the industry was pretty much flat. Naturally, we are incredibly proud of this.

Where in the world are you currently stocked? We are stocked in 57 countries over three continents. UK stockists include House of Fraser, Figleaves, Very and ASOS.

Which is your biggest market? Germany is our number one market.

Are there any markets you would like to grow or expand into? We have just launched MAGIC Bodyfashion in the US and would like to rapidly grow and expand in this market. Similarly, in Asia, we have launched in China and we are definitely focused on other Asian countries.

LINGERIEINSIGHT July 2017 www.lingerieinsight.co.uk

Do you plan to expand your presence in the UK? MAGIC Bodyfashion is rapidly growing in the UK market at the moment, with very aggressive double digit growth. Our UK agent [Philippa Bradley Agencies] is very active. Besides that, we are now investing in PR to build on our brand awareness.

What are your plans for 2017 and beyond? We will keep adding new categories to our total body solution concept. You will keep seeing great new innovations, as this is what we are all about.

JULY 2017 / VOL 08 ISSUE 01 www.lingerieinsight.com

Swimsuit revival

RETAILERS ON WHY THEY ARE SEEING AN UPLIFT IN ONE-PIECE SALES

Designer of the year INTERVIEW WITH AWARD-WINNING DESIGNER RAFFAELA D’ANGELO

News splash TOP STORIES FROM THE SWIMWEAR INDUSTRY

COOL

SUMMER AS THE SS18 TRADE SHOW SEASON GETS UNDERWAY, WE PROVIDE A SNEAK PEEK OF THE SWIMWEAR STYLES SET TO TURN HEADS AT MODE CITY

WHERE THE BODYFASHION WORLD MEETS

lingerie-swimwear-paris.com

08 09 10 JULY 2017

Paris Expo Porte de Versailles Pav.1

interfiliere.com

lingerie-swimwear-paris.com +33 (0)1 47 56 32 42 | [email protected]

WELCOME COMMENT

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Welcome to the latest edition of Swimwear Insight

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9 VOLUME 08 • ISSUE 03

Contents This Issue

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Editor’s Letter

Swimsuit revival In a conversation with leading brands and retailers, Swimwear Insight uncovers what’s driving the revival of the one-piece.’

Welcome to the July 2017 edition of Swimwear Insight, our summer pullout that brings you all the latest news and trends related to swimwear, beachwear and accessories. In this issue, we place the spotlight on Mode City, the lingerie and swimwear show taking place in Paris this month. We provide a preview of some of the most stylish, functional and innovate swimwear and beachwear brands exhibiting at the show, along with their stand numbers and key contact details. One of these exhibitors, Italian brand Raffaela D’Angelo, has been named Designer of the Year by Mode City organisers. In an interview with Swimwear Insight, the founder reacts to the news and speaks about her expectations for the show. Also in this edition, brands and retailers from Figleaves to John Lewis discuss a surge in swimsuit sales and explain the key drivers behind the one-piece revival. And over the page, our News Splash brings you the latest headlines from the swimwear industry, from the launch of a new shaping sportswear line to a promising sales report from Michael Phelp’s swimwear brand.

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News splash Here are 10 stories from the swimwear industry that made the headlines this month.

Enjoy the issue!

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Mode City preview

Sarah Clarke

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We pick out some of the swimwear highlights of the seasonal trade show, which takes place in Paris on July 8-10.

EDITOR, LINGERIE INSIGHT

Designer of the Year In an exclusive interview, Italian swimwear designer Raffaela D’Angelo speaks ahead of the Mode City Paris exhibition, where she will be crowned the 2017 Designer of the Year. www.lingerieinsight.co.uk July 2017 SWIMWEARINSIGHT

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SWIMWEAR INSIGHT

SWIMSUIT TREND

The Great

Swimsuit Revival In a conversation with leading brands and retailers in the swimwear sector, Swimwear Insight uncovers what’s driving the revival of the one-piece

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he swimwear industry in the midst of a onepiece revival.

In a spot poll carried out by Lingerie Insight, 59 industry professionals (88%) agreed with this statement and, in a more in-depth survey, luxury and mid-market brands and retailers confirmed that they had witnessed a surge in swimsuit sales this year. One example is Coco Bay, an online retailer specialising in premium swimwear, which reported a 100% increase

The Icon Lattice shaping swimsuit from Figleaves

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in swimsuit sales in spring 2017 compared to a year ago. Meanwhile at Figleaves, swimsuits have been growing in popularity over the last few seasons. “Within own-brand, swimsuits remain our biggest cash driver accounting for 55% of the sales, a growth of 31% on the year. Within branded swimsuits, sales have lifted 15% on last year,” says Figleaves acting buyer for swimwear, socks and hosiery, Samantha Winyard. Heidi Klein, a one-stop holiday shop, with stores in London’s Chelsea and Notting Hill, has also seen a increase in one-piece sales, so much so that it has expanded this area of the business, with the launch of new collections. “We’ve definitely seen growth in this area,” says co-founder Penny Klein. “The increase has been significant enough for us to increase our swimsuit range by close to 30%.” For independent swimwear brand Pistol Panties, swimsuits have always featured heavily in its collections, but it’s only now that retailers are beginning to take stock of them in significant numbers. “Going back 12 years, about 30% of our collection consisted of swimsuits,”

SWIMWEARINSIGHT July 2017 www.lingerieinsight.co.uk

explains founder and designer Deborah Fleming. “At first, department stores were hesitant to buy into them and we found we had a lot of swimsuits left over back then. But we persevered and, funnily enough, swimsuits now make up 50 - 60% of their orders.”

A pool of choice There appears to be a number of factors that are driving the surge in one-piece sales, the main one being choice. In recent months, there has been a influx in fashion-forward, elegant swimsuits designed to flatter all body shapes. New brand Alexandra Miro, for example, has launched a sexy and sculpting swimsuit collection featuring neoprene fabric, moulded cups, plunging necklines and cut-outs. “There are so many different swimsuit shapes available now that didn’t exist before,” says Bravissimo product manager Clare Harris.

SWIMSUIT TREND

SWIMWEAR INSIGHT

A cut-out swimsuit from Rebecca Torres’ Cosmic collection

The Iconic Nantucket swimsuit by Heidi Klein

“The one-piece used to be a pull-on style with two thick straps and now you have the bandeau, cut-out, one-shoulder, cross-back, low-back, low-front. There is so much variation and excitement going on.” Coco Bay founder Belinda Robinson seconds that argument and adds: “Designers are no longer seeing the one-piece as having to be practical or offering coverage for the body-conscious.” Dawn Barber, managing director of UK Swimwear, agrees that brands are flexing their creative muscles when it comes to swimsuits.

“Ladies of all ages are going for a full suit as the cut is much more flattering and there are some fabulous prints and embellishments around now.” Robinson believes that this image repositioning has been fuelled by high-profile celebrities, such as Taylor Swift and Kim Kardashian, choosing sexy one-pieces over the bikini. And Rebecca Torres, founder of her namesake swimwear brand, agrees. “With the rise of social media channels like Instagram, consumers have greater access to holiday snaps taken by celebrities wearing that ‘must-have’ one-piece,” Torres comments.

Swimwear as outerwear Fashion-forward swimsuits, just like on-trend bodysuits, also lend themselves to outerwear. New brands like Arabella London are reinventing the one-piece as a multifunctional garment worn beyond the beach, while high street retailers such as Topshop are merchandising this category with clothing items like denim shorts and evening dresses.

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SWIMWEAR INSIGHT

SWIMSUIT TREND

The Anjuna soft tummy control swimsuit from Figleaves

Seafolly’s Wildflower swimsuit is a best seller at Coco Bay

The Evelyn laser-cut swimsuit from Pistol Panties

“One-pieces are great for layering with holiday ready-to-wear,” says Klein. “Luxury customers are savvier than ever about maximising their purchases.” The rise in popularity of beach-based sports activities has also contributed to the swimsuit revival, as have sunsmart campaigns. “People are less concerned about tanning these days and are more aware of the dangers of sun damage,” explains Fleming. “So they are not as keen on revealing as much skin as they used to.”

Bikini takeover? So with the swimsuit in the midst of a revival, does this garment have the potential to overtake the bikini in terms of sales? The answer is open to debate.

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Robinson says: “No, I think the bikini will always win out, purely because people like to feel the sun on their tummy.” At Figleaves, own-brand swimsuit sales are beating bikini sales, although bikini sales grew 20% last year, but branded sells tell another story.

SWIMWEARINSIGHT July 2017 www.lingerieinsight.co.uk

“Within branded, bikinis outperform swimsuits with a 64% sales mix,” says Winyard. Rebecca Torres is seeing the gap close between bikini and swimsuit sales on its website and believes the one-piece does have the potential to overtake the bikini. “One piece swimsuits are so versatile, with the ability to mix and match with other items,” Torres explains. “It’s great to see such a vast choice of styles in the market.” Heidi Klein, meanwhile, believes it’s impossible to predict whether swimsuits will become more popular than bikinis. “Trends are fickle. One reason we’ve seen such a growth in swimsuit sales is that we’ve improved our offering,” says cofounder Penny Klein. “Clients have suggested that onepieces often make them feel flattened around the bust area, so we have taken this on board and have tried and tested and developed the perfect cut. We have hidden wiring, padding and power mesh to make sure the swimsuit is working hard behind the scenes, and we’ve seen growth from this.”

NEWS SPLASH

SWIMWEAR INSIGHT

News Splash

Here are 10 stories from the swimwear industry that made the headlines this month

Party planner expands into beachwear

Dora Larsen teases new swimwear collection British lingerie brand Dora Larsen is set to launch its debut swimwear collection. The label, launched last year by former Topshop lingerie buyer Georgia Larsen, will present samples from the new range at the Mode City exhibition in Paris this month. Full details surrounding the collection are yet to be disclosed, but Larsen

revealed to Swimwear Insight that swimwear styles will be made using “quality matte microfibre”. The colour palette was inspired by summer in Miami, with bright pinks, yellows, greens and pastels used across the range. Neutral tones influenced by French styling, such as navy, red and rust also feature.

Miraclesuit adds shaping sportswear line to swimwear segment

Candypants, a global company renowned for hosting exclusive parties in some of the world’s most desirable locations, has launched a capsule beachwear collection. The event planner, famous for its pool parties and award-winning brunches in Dubai, and boat parties in Marbella and the Mediterranean, has partnered with swimwear and lingerie specialist Delta Connex to produce a collection designed to cater to a multitude of cultures. Designed for, and inspired by the Candypants’ global audience, the range features 11 swimwear pieces, 11 beach pieces and seven pieces of jewellery. The debut collection uses a range of fabrics and subtle embellishments with modern silhouettes and will be available in four block colours: white, khaki and dusk.

Michael Phelps swimwear brand sees sales skyrocket Michael Phelps swimwear, a collaboration between the Olympic champion, swimming coach Bob Bowman and swimwear brand Aqua Sphere, is enjoying unprecedented success in the UK this year. Following the 2016 Rio Olympics, MP swimwear sales have soared 140%, and this growth is expected to steadily continue as more designs are added in 2018. Launched in 2015, MP, designed by Aqua Sphere, aims to develop innovative products to meet the needs of elite competitive swimmers, both male and female.

Patricia Eve, the UK distributor of Miraclesuit Swimwear, has announced the arrival of a new category from the US shaping brand for 2018. The firm will introduce Miracle Swim Performance (MSP), a collection of beachwear designed for water sports, to British buyers at this season’s trade shows. The debut range from MSP includes sporty swimsuits, paddle pants and tank tops made using ‘Miraslim’ technology, which is designed to shape the wearer without confinement.

Paris show to celebrate Colombian lingerie and swimwear exports Mode City will shine the spotlight on Colombian lingerie and swimwear brands when it opens its doors to international buyers in Paris this month. ProColombia, the government organisation for the promotion of

non-traditional exports, foreign investment and international tourism, is leading the delegation of 24 Colombian brands that will present their SS18 collections during the event’s fashion shows.

The aim is to attract global retailers and promote Colombia as ‘the best kept secret in the Americas’. Colombia is largest exporter of lingerie in South America, according to Eurovet, the organiser behind Mode City.

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SWIMWEAR INSIGHT

NEWS SPLASH

-VWMJ-PVOHFQSPNPUFTCPEZDPOËEFODFBU0YGPSE4USFFUTVNNFSQBSUZ Shoppers visiting London’s Oxford Street last month were stopped in their tracks by a summer party hosted by British intimates brand Luvli Lounge. Armed with inflatables, models ranging from a size 6 to 18 wore bikinis from the brand whilst handing out ice lollies.

The aim of the party was to promote body confidence, encouraging more women to embrace their bodies this summer. “We’ve taken the ethos from our lingerie collections and bringing it to the beaches and pools this summer.

British brand debuts supportive swimbras and swimsuits

We strongly believe in body positivity and encourage women to not only feel comfortable in our pieces but, more importantly, their skin,” said co-founder Lola Payne. Luvli’s lates swimwear range is inspired by tropical destinations.

MissPap collaborates with Love Island star on new swimwear range Fast fashion e-tailer MissPap has announced its first swimwear collaboration with reality TV star Olivia Buckland. The new MissPap X Olivia Buckland collection, which has been designed by Buckland, includes more than 20 swimwear styles alongside a selection of kimonos, footwear and accessories. Buckland came second on dating reality show Love Island in 2016, with Alex Bowen. Earlier this year, the couple became engaged and Buckland was featured on an episode of Say Yes to the Dress. Her new swimwear range features summer brights and tropical palm prints, alongside multi-way straps, sporty necklines and playful slogans.

;PHHTTQFMMTPVUGBTIJPOGPDVTFE JOUFOUJPOTGPS4QSJOH4VNNFS Deakin and Blue, a new swimwear brand based in London, has launched its debut collection, designed to offer support and style during exercise. The new collection is made up of supportive ‘swimbras’ and swimsuits in cup sizes AA-HH. Deakin and Blue was established by Cambridge graduate Rosie Cook in response to her fruitless search for stylish and practical swimwear, designed for swimming. Designed with support and comfort in mind, Deakin and Blue swimsuits and swimbras feature a racer back, rubberbased binding, UV-resistant fabric, underbust elastic, a lowcut underarm for chafe-free mobility and semi-opaque power-mesh inserts.

/FYUUFTUTUIFXBUFSTXJUIFYDMVTJWF Miraclesuit swimwear line High street giant Next has become the exclusive stockist of a new one-piece from Miraclesuit’s 2018 collection. The retailer, one of Miraclesuit’s key accounts, has teamed up with Patricia Eve, the UK distributor of the US shaping brand, to provide an early showing of the Madero swimsuit in midnight blue. Next has agreed to showcase the new colour in the best-selling style this month, instead of the usual January 2018 timeline, in order to test reactions from customers.

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SWIMWEARINSIGHT July 2017 www.lingerieinsight.co.uk

Australian swimwear brand Zoggs has spiced up its swimwear collection for SS18, with a strong focus on fashion. Speaking at a conference in London, the brand said it has created a versatile collection with the aim of taking consumers from the leisure centre to the beach. Renowned for its classic sports suits, Zoggs has pushed the boundaries with colours, cuts and prints this season, whilst also maintaining performance elements such as tummy control, durable Aqualast fabric and hidden breast support. Zoggs presented its new collection under five themes – Latino Love, featuring vibrant pinks; Aqua Reefs, an aquatic jade line inspired by the ocean; Sacred Craft, which has a Middle Eastern feel with intricate prints and mesh detail; Electric Power, a black sporty range with bursts of contrasting colour; and Paradise, featuring warm yellows and mirrored tropical prints.

MODE CITY PREVIEW

PRODUCTS & TRENDS

MODE CITY

SWIMWEAR PREVIEW We pick out some of the swimwear highlights of the seasonal trade show, which takes place in Paris on July 8-10

Profile Sport

About: Profile Sport, a new athleisure swimwear label in the Gottex house of brands, will return to Paris for a second year. The line explores the synergy between the activewear and fashion swimwear worlds, creating a product suitable for the feminine and active woman. The brand offers supportive, functional and fashionable sporty pieces, such as UV protective rash guards, leggings, crop tops, sporty tankinis and sexy scuba styles/rash-suits. All styles are made using Sensitive Fabrics by Eurojersey. RRP: £85 - £99 Stand number: J65 Sales contact: Richard Barnes/Andrew Barnes, 01773 534177

Banana Moon

Gottex

About: Gottex has introduced a new sub-category, Gottex Couture, a continuation of the successful 60th anniversary Jewel Box collection, which offers premium swimwear. All styles within the collection feature unique fabrics and extravagant accessories and embroideries, designed to create a glamorous look. Asymmetric necklines, strapping details, glitter printing and silver lamination also feature. Alongside Gottex Couture, Gottex will present its GTX, Collection and Contour categories at the Paris show. RRP: £119 to £250 Stand number: J65 Sales contact: Richard Barnes/Andrew Barnes, 01773 534177

About: US brand Banana Moon will showcase a range of summer brights paired with warm hues, tropical prints and geometric patterns. Inspirations are drawn from the 1970s, with its self-confident, bohemian style, as well as the Amazon rainforest and Cabana life. Monochrome also takes centre stage this season, combining geometric patterns with palms and flowers in black and white. Banana Moon will also present a limited edition range of swimwear that incorporates crochet stitches, patchwork and embroidery, as well as a couture collection and a teen range. RRP: £60 - £85 Stand number: J27 Sales contact: Irene Douglas, 07962126563

Chantelle Beachwear

About: A bohemian look washes over the new SS18 beachwear from Chantelle. The 1970s have inspired themes that reflect three moments in a typical island day; Hippie Market, Blue Retreat, Sunset Party. Hippie Market is inspired by market stalls piled high with fruits, vegetables and spices, with mint, papaya and coffee making up the colour palette. Blue Retreat combines calming blues with a hot pink twist. Inspired by mosaic, with indigo tie-dyes and stylish flowers, prints are fun and fresh. Sunset Party is a glamorous range in black, featuring two-tone graphics and chic stripes. RRP: TBC Stand number: P50 Sales contact: Mary Cameron, 01483 400 881

www.lingerieinsight.co.uk July 2017 SWIMWEARINSIGHT

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PRODUCTS & TRENDS

MODE CITY PREVIEW

Panache Swim

Eva Swimwear

About: Panache Swim, the swimwear line by size D+ specialist Panache, will showcase statement Middle Eastern prints, vibrant tropical brights and muted purple hues at Mode City this season. The latest collection is all about framing the body with clean and classic styling paired with fresh prints and luxe detailing. New for this season is the stand-out Ceylon bikini, featuring a bandeau shape with a luxe Guipure lace motif added against a sheer high neck. RRP: £11 - £56 Stand number: S38 Sales contact: Oriane Druesne, 0114 2418 888

About: Eva, the luxury brand from Naturana, will present a range of sensual and glamorous swimwear this season. Block-colour one pieces in black, red, midnight blue and deep green sit alongside patterned swimwear styles. Selected styles also offer a matching sarong, vest top, sundresses and trouser accessories. RRP: TBC Stand number: S50 Sales contact: Tom Kavanagh, [email protected]

Miraclesuit Swim

About: Shaping swimwear brand Miraclesuit will showcase bursts of colour that capture an exotic bazaar alongside sheer inserts to create a flattering silhouette. The new collection is designed to be as functional as it is aesthetic, with Xtra Life Lycra fibre combined with shaping fabric Miratex. RRP: £100 - £130 Stand number: N6 Sales contact: Chris Eve of Patricia Eve, [email protected]

David Swimwear

About: The SS18 collection from Italian brand David Swimwear is all about vivid colours and exuberant prints. For example, the Blue Reef group features an elegant white coral motif on a bright blue background, the Python Sauvage group offers a striking kaleidoscopic print on a turquoise background and, for the more romantic, the Indonesian group print combines delicate roses with subtle leopard prints. Also this season, Iconique by David beachwear will be incorporated into the collection for the first time. RRP: £60 - £100 approx Stand number: M8 Sales contact: Chris Eve of Patricia Eve, [email protected]

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SWIMWEARINSIGHT July 2017 www.lingerieinsight.co.uk

SS18 BEACHWEAR COLLECTION

Mode City Paris 8-10th July - Booth M36 | London Swimwear Show 16-18th July For information and appointment enquiries please contact [email protected] or visit www.foreveruniqueltd.com

PRODUCTS & TRENDS

MODE CITY PREVIEW

Miradonna

Resort by Fleur

About: Following a strong reception in its first season, Miradonna, a shaping swimwear brand developed by Miraclesuit and Italian swimwear group AFS, will return to the Paris show with MiraBasic, a group of colourful one-piece suits. Meanwhile, the MiraChic range offers six styles in four new bright colours. Also look out for 90s nautical stripes, a white leopard print and new floral designs. RRP: £45 - £135 Stand number: M8 Sales contact: Chris Eve of Patricia Eve, [email protected]

About: Designer Fleur Turner has created a luxury swimwear collection inspired by Mother Nature and the experience of a sunset in paradise. She captured this moment in a photograph whilst on holiday in Jamaica and this was carefully placed into a geometric triangle print. All colours are inspired by the sunset, from its dusky rose clouds to its zesty core. Resort by Fleur continues to work with Italian swimwear fabric and has introduced a strappy effect this season. Neck ties also feature throughout. RRP: TBC Stand number: M82 Sales contact: Jennie Lodge, jennie@fleurofengland.com

Michael Kors

About: Michael Kors is a world-renowned, award-winning designer of luxury accessories and ready-to-wear. His namesake company, established in 1981, currently produces a range of products under his signature Michael Kors Collection and MICHAEL Michael Kors labels. These products include accessories, footwear, jewellery and a line of beachwear, which will be presented at the Paris show this season. RRP: £50 - £150 Stand number: J73 Sales contact: Abigayle Akinpelumi, [email protected]

Forever Unique

About: Incorporating a tropical paradise aesthetic, while playing on the popular bohemian gypsy trend, the latest collection from Forever Unique comprises matching bikini sets, cut-out swimsuits, floating kaftans, sarongs and maxi dresses. Striking tropical prints adorn bikinis and kaftans, with floral designs boasting magenta, midnight blue and lime hues. Bohemian influences take shape in the form of tassel detailing, off-shoulder frilled dresses and jewelled sarongs. Butterfly prints in a yellow, aqua and monochrome palette are juxtaposed against clean lines to create an eye-catching composition. Glamorous elements are revealed through hot fix embellishments, diamante jewels and metal hardware. RRP: £89.00 - £324.99 Stand number: M36 Sales contact: Kimberley Yates, [email protected]

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SWIMWEARINSIGHT July 2017 www.lingerieinsight.co.uk

Maryan Mehlhorn

About: The new SS18 collection from German beachwear brand Maryan Mehlhorn features clean lines alongside opulent looks and textile innovations. Strong contouring lines create sculptural 3D effects whilst maintaining comfort, the brand said. High neck lines are a big trend, as are low backs and strappy details. Prints are inspired by nature, with underwater scenes featuring flora and fauna that populate coral reefs and oriental floral patterns featuring calla lilies and oversized tropical foliage. RRP: TBC Stand number: J49 Sales contact: [email protected]

MODE CITY PREVIEW

PRODUCTS & TRENDS

Vacanze Italiane

About: This season, Vacanze Italiane will introduce a range of bikinis, one-pieces and beachwear under the sub-brand name of Iconique by Vacanze and the Gold Label line, which features seductive styles in sophisticated fabrics. New for the SS18 season is a new soft microfiber fabric, which comes with a matt or silky finish. RRP: £50 - £200 approx Stand number: M8 Sales contact: Chris Eve of Patricia Eve, [email protected]

Freya Swimwear

About: This season, Freya offers a fun and vibrant collection that is bursting with colour. These bold and vibrant collections are offered in a selection of patterns in tribal twists, geo styling, exotic jungle and floral prints, with hand-crafted detail and eye catching embroidery and textures used throughout. Freya introduces Hot in Havana for SS18. This swim collection features a blend of exotic and animal prints in the form of a twisted bandeau bikini top, a low plunge halter, matching co-ordinates and a bandeau halter dress. RRP: £20 - £58 Stand number: J25 Sales contact: Evelyne Piegay, +33 6 7339 0057

Miraclesuit Swim Performance

Profile by Gottex

About: The focus of this collection is to combine the latest trends with excellent fit and functionality. The brand uses Sensitive Lycra fabric, which has SPF protection and is designed to adapt to smooth and sculpt the body. Profile’s foundation is based on a varied selection of separates in both print and coordinating solids, with sizes ranging from 8 to 24, and including D and E cup offerings. One of the newest print trends is the mineral geode, showcased in Quartzite. This print features organic colours ranging from cool aqua to deep lapis and amethyst. Dramatic silhouettes include a high-neck choker and strappy details. RRP: £85 - £99 Stand number: J65 Sales contact: Richard Barnes/Andrew Barnes, 01773 534177

About: Miraclesuit Swimwear will launch a new athleisure category for 2018. The firm will introduce Miracle Swim Performance (MSP), a collection of beachwear designed for water sports. The debut range from MSP includes sporty swimsuits, paddle pants and tank tops made using ‘Miraslim’ technology, which is designed to shape the wearer without confinement. RRP: TBC Stand number: M8 Sales contact: Chris Eve of Patricia Eve, [email protected]

Fantasie Swimwear

About: Fantasie, the popular fuller-bust brand from Wacoal Europe, transports the wearer to Ko Phi Phi in SS18, with a lively floral Hawaiian-inspired collection in orange, pink and tallow tones captivated on a black base. This new collection is offered in a selection of styles including a full-cup bikini (D-J), a balcony bikini (D-G), a tankini (D-H) a twisted front suit (D-GG), complete with matching mid ride briefs (XS-XL), classic scarf tie brief (XS-XL) and classic fold brief (XS-XXL). RRP: £26 - £85 Stand number: J25 Sales contact: Evelyne Piegay, +33 6 7339 0057 www.lingerieinsight.co.uk July 2017 SWIMWEARINSIGHT

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PRODUCTS & TRENDS

MODE CITY PREVIEW

Naturana Swim

Watercult

About: Naturana said it will introduce its boldest swimwear collection yet for 2018. Animal prints sit side by side with floral patterns, while solid colour styles are adorned with interwoven bands. The collection offers young fashionable styles, sporty sets, directional detailing and classic designs. Shapes vary from dainty triangle and bandeau bikinis to wired styles – some up to E cup. Swimsuits feature racer backs, classic bandeau cuts, halter-necks. Naturana Swim also offers controlwear designs to appeal to all age groups. RRP: TBC Stand number: S50 Sales contact: Tom Kavanagh, [email protected]

About: Watercult, the fashion-forward swimwear brand from the Maryan Mehlhorn beachwear group, has been journeying across times zones and cultures to create a new collection that demonstrates a clash of styles for SS18. Influences come from the 90s in the form of high-low shapes, vintage jungle prints, oversized ruffles and activewear-inspired styling. The colour palette mixes airy shades of shell pink, vanilla ice and horizon blue with bright sunshine yellow, indigo and turquoise. RRP: TBC Stand number: J49 Sales contact: [email protected]

Charmline

About: Charmline is a shaping swimwear brand offering designs to make the wearer look one size slimmer. Available in light, medium and strong support, products range from clean and sporty to feminine and elegant. For SS18, the collection mixes a range of nautical, animal and floral prints with ruching, 3D panels and borders to slim and sculpt the silhouette. RRP: TBC Stand number: J49 Sales contact: [email protected]

Promise Swimwear

About: For SS18, Spanish brand Promise draws inspiration from tropical destinations and a mix of cultures. The city of Mumbai influences the collection with its rich, saturated colours and paisley designs, while Crete inspires a palette of turquoise, deep blue and red found in the Greek island’s coastal waters and tiled roofs. Bright colours and prints derived from Honolulu, Sardinia and Polynesia also feature across the range, while earthier tones are inspired by the forests of Caribbean island, Martinique. Finally, the legendary Coachella festival inspires boho elements like crochet rosettes and hemstitch bikinis. RRP: £50 - £70 approx Stand number: K12 Sales contact: Chris Eve of Patricia Eve, [email protected]

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RAFFAELA D’ANGELO

SWIMWEAR INSIGHT

Made in Milan:

Italian favourite picks up

prestigious award In an exclusive interview, Italian swimwear designer Raffaela D’Angelo speaks ahead of the Mode City Paris exhibition, where she will be crowned the 2017 Designer of the Year

T

his summer’s edition of Mode City Paris will honour Italian swimwear and beachwear

label Raffaela D’Angelo with the 2017 Designer of the Year award. Founder and designer Raffaela D’Angelo launched the brand in Milan in 2004 after gaining 20 years’ experience in prestigious Italian, French and Israeli fashion houses. Today, D’Angelo and her team create collections using exclusive prints and embroideries, making the brand a fashion favourite at Milan Fashion Week each season. All manufacturing takes place in Italy and the brand sources fine materials from premium Italian suppliers, including Ratti, Jersey Lomellina, Mantero, Junior SRL by Zibetti and Eurojersey. Since 2009, production and distribution have been managed by the Valery Group and the brand is now sold in more than 500 points of sale around the world. Here, D’Angelo reacts to winning the prestigious Designer of the Year award and discusses her expectations for Mode City.

The brand’s latest collection is inspired by Sicilian architecture

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SWIMWEAR INSIGHT

RAFFAELA D’ANGELO

New designs feature colourful prints, crochet accessories and embellishments

How would you describe your design handwriting, and how has it evolved over the years? My style has always had a romantic and elegant vibe. Over the years, as the collections grew in size, some more daring pieces were incorporated thanks to the use of new materials, techniques and appliqués, such as leather, laser cutting and studs. Designer and founder, Raffaela D’Angelo

How do you feel about being named Designer of the Year 2017? I am happy and honoured to receive this prestigious award as recognition of not only my credibility, but also of the Italian style that I represent. I always try to value traditional Italian manufacturing and being appreciated internationally is a great honour. I thank those who chose to give me this award and everyone who works with me in creating my unique collections.

Why do you think you stood out from other swimwear brands? I think I stood out because my collections mix innovation and tradition. New innovative fabrics and techniques are combined with traditional Italian handmade crochet.

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How do you think you will benefit from winning this award? I expect more people to be exposed to the brand name. This is an opportunity for us to expand further and reach new consumers.

What are your expectations for Mode City this season? What do you hope to achieve? I hope to find new clients and maintain our great relationships with the current ones. I would also like more people to know about the brand, its style and ideas. I don’t just make bikinis; I make a prêt-à-porter designs that can be worn from sunrise to sunset.

Which collections will you take to the show? Will there be any exciting new launches? I will bring the Cruise and the Spring

SWIMWEARINSIGHT July 2017 www.lingerieinsight.co.uk

Summer 2018 collections. As for new launches, you’ll have to stop by our stand at Mode City to find out!

What are your inspirations behind your latest collection? Every year my collections evolve from Italian traditions. This year, I was inspired by Sicily and its architecture, ornaments and colourful decorations. I was also inspired by exaggerated jewellery, pendants, crochet accessories, and mosaics. It is a very colourful collection, with a touch of black and white. Fabrics, including cotton, silk and linen are used for comfort.

What are your future plans for Raffaela D’Angelo? How do you hope to grow the company? We hope to enter new markets and continue to come up with more innovative products.

What is your opinion on the current state of the swimwear market globally? Nowadays, there are a lot of low-cost, fast-fashion swimwear brands and fewer high-end swimwear brands. I excel in the latter with my collections, which are made in Italy and represent a blend of traditions and innovations.

SWIMSHOW

SWIMWEAR INSIGHT

SwimShow: WHAT’S ON? Excitement is building for the 35th annual SwimShow, which kicks off this month. We break down what the Florida exhibition will bring to the SS18 buying season Where: Miami Beach Convention Center When: July 22-25

The Collection Due to its success last year, SwimShow is reviving and expanding the Collection. Strategically placed in the middle of the show floor, the Collection is a curated fashion environment created for showcasing the best emerging and established swimwear designer brands in the industry. The platform will continue to emphasise each individual brand’s identity with focus placed on the product. Buyers will have an opportunity to engage with brands in a one-on-one unique, intimate environment that will allow them to gather personal insights into the collections. Retailers are invited to experience this area of the show, while enjoying champagne butler service, a VIP lounge area and free access to WiFi.

swimwear fitting skills to maximise your retail success with the one-hour swimwear seminar. Then, test your skills in the Swim Workshop, where you will immerse yourself in hands-on fitting bootcamp for cup-sized swimwear. Designed for everyone from novice fitters to seasoned professionals, this workshop will provide attentive personal instruction in basic to advanced Eveden fitting techniques.

Eveden’s Fit School When: July 22-24. Seminar at 11-12pm and workshop at 1-3pm Where: Meeting Room 235, 2nd floor Don’t miss the opportunity to learn the art of fitting at Eveden’s Fit School with Frederika Zappe, Eveden’s national fit specialist, and the Eveden fit team. First, develop your

Fashion Law Seminar (for exhibitors only) - Presented by Greenberg Traurig When: July 13 at 12:30pm Where: Meeting Room 237, 2nd floor Fashion designers and brands today face many legal issues, especially in this age

www.lingerieinsight.co.uk July 2017 SWIMWEARINSIGHT

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SWIMWEAR INSIGHT

SWIMSHOW

of social media. During this seminar, Greenberg Traurig attorneys will offer knowledge and advice on protecting your brand and designs, regulations governing the use of interns and requirements for disclosures of social media endorsements. RSVP by July 7 to [email protected]

Gif Photobooth There will be a Gif Photobooth in the lounge areas where attendees and participants will be able to snap a selfie and create their own GIF to post on their social media accounts using the hashtag #SeeYouAtSwimShow

Zen lounge Re-charge and re-invigorate from 10am - 5pm at the SwimShow’s Day Spa. The facility offers mini hair and make-up treatments, massages and manicures to give buyers a quick fix for a special appointment.

Complimentary food Visit the breakfast bar and high tea area for free mimosas, coffee, muffins, fruit, biscotti a mini sandwiches.

complete with comfortable places to hang out during a break, as well as table-top seating for business interactions. Free WiFi is also available.

Swim Lounge

Happy hour

Exhibitors and buyers can relax and unwind in the luxurious Swim Lounge,

When: Saturday and Monday evenings from 6-7:30pm A favourite event of many members and retailers alike, Happy Hour offers attendees the opportunity to network and catch up with clients after the show.

Cyber cafes Cyber Cafes have been installed throughout the trade show to provide easy access to wireless computers.

Accommodation The Miami Swimshow has partnered with the Miami Beach Visitor & Convention Authority and the Greater Miami Convention & Visitors Bureau to offer greater access to the South Beach with hotel deals, complimentary transportation and an on-site concierge.

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SWIMWEARINSIGHT July 2017 www.lingerieinsight.co.uk

THE STAR-STUDDED EVENT MAKES A COMEBACK

2017 Coming to London this November Brand Awards Business of the Year (small) Business of the Year (medium) Business of the Year (large) Innovation of the Year Designer of the Year (people award) New Business of the Year Rising Star (people award) Lingerie Agent or Distributor of the Year Exporter of the Year Marketing Campaign of the Year Retail Awards Independent Retail Business of the Year Multiple Retail Business of the Year Online Retail Business of the Year Department Store of the Year Buyer of the Year (people award) Customer Service Provider of the Year Fit and Styling Award

For information on nominations: Sarah Clarke [email protected] 020 3176 5457

For information on sponsorship opportunities: Anne-Marie Judge [email protected] 020 3176 5632

A Trade Show Open to All Independent Retailers

INDX INTIMATE APPAREL

Free entry Free refreshments Free lunch Free on-site parking

FEATURING OVER 140 BRANDS Register online now www.indxshow.co.uk

Spring Summer 6 - 8 August 2017

SHOW

Cranmore Park Exhibition Centre, Cranmore Avenue, Shirley, Solihull, B90 4LF | T: 0121 713 4453

INDX INTIMATE APPAREL

PRODUCTS & TRENDS

Date for the diary

UK lingerie and swimwear trade show INDX Intimate Apparel will return next month with more than double the usual number exhibitors, proving the continued demand for industry exhibitions in today’s market. In an exclusive interview, chief organiser Amanda Partridge picks out the highlights from the show

I

NDX Intimate Apparel will return to Solihull next month with its most inclusive exhibition to date. The show, organised by UK buying group Associated Independent Stores (AIS), will host a record-breaking number of exhibitors and an extended format, opening on a Sunday for the first time. The news follows and unprecedented demand for exhibition space at Cranmore Park following Moda’s announcement that it will not include lingerie and swimwear in its line-up at NEC Birmingham this year. Speaking to Lingerie Insight in an exclusive interview, Amanda Partridge, chief organiser for INDX Intimate Apparel, explains that AIS saw the closure as an opportunity to unite major brands in the

Top tips for making the most of INDX Pre-Register To prevent delay and ensure visitor badges are ready on arrival, all retailers should pre-register either online: www.indxshow.co.uk/ intimate-apparel or by telephoning: 0121 713 4453. Plan Your Visit INDX is expecting a busy show so, to avoid disappointment, organisers recommend booking appointments with key brands.

Make Time INDX will showcase ranges from over 140 brands, so allow some time to explore new collections and product categories. Join Us INDX organisers are inviting visitors to join them for complimentary post-show drinks and canapés on Sunday and Monday from 5:30pm – an informal opportunity to unwind after a busy day’s buying.

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PRODUCTS & TRENDS

INDX INTIMATE APPAREL

intimate apparel industry for the first time in years. “Brands and retailers have been extremely positive and there is a lot of excitement building around the SS18 show,” says Partridge, who’s worked as a buyer in the independent sector for more than 12 years. “Everyone has been very supportive and generally delighted that INDX Intimate Apparel will be bringing the whole industry together, one show, one place, one time,” she adds. INDX Intimate Apparel usually presents 70 brands, but exhibitor numbers are expected to more than double this year, with 140 labels having confirmed their attendance. So how has the show made room for the extra numbers? “We are fortunate that our venue in Solihull – Cranmore Park, is a purposebuilt exhibition centre with exceptional facilities and over 3,000m2 of exhibition space,” explains Partridge. “To accommodate our expansion, the August edition of the show will utilise more exhibition space than ever before and visitors will be able to view brands across three interconnecting showrooms.” Among the brands exhibiting this season, more than 40 will be making their INDX debut. “We have so many brands to choose from this season that there will be something to inspire every retailer, from small shops and department stores to luxury boutiques,” says Partridge.

INDX chief organiser Amanda Partridge

Visitor numbers are expected to reach record heights too, with an unprecedented number of registrations already received, according to AIS. “We are looking forward to welcoming a significant number of first-time visitors alongside our regular attendees and are expecting an increase in footfall from across the whole of the UK and Ireland,” explains Partridge. As well as an increase in the number of collections on display, an extra day of trading is expected to result in a bumper turn-out. “Due to popular demand, the SS18 show will be extended from a two-day to a threeday format and, this August, we will be opening on a Sunday for the first time,” Partridge says. “This change is something our retailers and exhibitors have been particularly pleased about.”

The future of retail Amanda Partridge on what challenges and opportunities she expects the intimate apparel industry to face over the next year. “Retailers will be faced with uncertainty in the wake of Brexit and, at a time when consumers will be reviewing their spending habits, the intimate apparel industry will need to reaffirm its status as a lifestyle essential. Independent retailers will come into their own by listening to

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their customers and focusing on providing excellent fitting product, excellent choice and excellent service. Although it carries its own challenges, omni-channel retailing still provides business owners with a huge opportunity to increase sales, provided suppliers and retailers work hand-in-hand. Of course, there is an excellent opportunity within the add-on sales arena, which many retailers are yet to take advantage of.”

LINGERIEINSIGHT July 2017 www.lingerieinsight.co.uk

Discussing what visitors can expect from this season’s show, Partridge says that there will continue to be a strong “wellness aesthetic” running through lingerie and loungewear collections for SS18. “Buyers will see an emphasis on softness and comfort with feminine sheers, delicate layering, second-skin neutrals, intricate lace and romantic embroidery,” she adds. In direct contrast to understated lingerie and loungewear trends, swimwear is expected to be louder than ever. “Buyers will find vibrant citrus hues and decorative prints alongside exotic tropicals and sporty geometrics in the new SS18 swim collections,” continues Partridge. The chief organiser of the show has also identified post-surgery underwear and shapewear as strong focal points of the forthcoming exhibition. “Post-surgery is definitely a key growth area,” she explains. “We are becoming better at and more open in discussing women’s health issues generally and obviously breast cancer is one of the most wide-reaching topics. “We are also becoming more focused on well-being and taking care of ourselves and, through listening to their customers’ demands, more retailers are beginning to realise the importance of stocking postsurgery/mastectomy product ranges.” Partridge believes growth in the shapewear sector will be driven by the wellness trend, technical advancements and celebrity endorsement. She also notes that more retailers are beginning to pay attention to add-on sales by stocking complementary ranges, including underwear solutions and accessories. INDX Intimate Apparel will take place from 6-8 August at Cranmore Park Exhibition Centre in Solihull.

MODE CITY PARIS 8-10 July Paris Expo Porte De Versailles INDX 6 - 8 August Cranmore Park Solihull, UK

WW W. PA NA CH E- LI NG ERIE .C OM

DEBATE

BRALETTE TREND

BRALETTE TREND:

A BLESSING OR A BURDEN? The unstoppable underwear as outerwear and athleisure trends have driven a huge uplift in bralette sales in the first three months of 2017, but to what impact on constructed underwired styles, which were born out of a need to fit and support global consumers?

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Izadora triangle bra and brief by Boux Avenue

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LINGERIEINSIGHT July 2017 www.lingerieinsight.co.uk

t seems eagle-eyed Paris show organisers were right – 2017 really is the year of the bralette. In the last six months, lingerie brands and retailers from ASOS and John Lewis to Bluebella and Freya have seen a surge in sales in this category, according to research carried out by Lingerie Insight. For Mimi Holliday, seven out of its 10 best-selling styles in January were non-wired triangle bras, versus just one out of 10 in the same period last year. Research by fashion analysts at Edited also shows that bralette sales have rocketed 120% at 80 retailers across the US, UK and Europe since the beginning of the year. But what impact has this trend had on the sale of highly constructed underwired bras? And are consumers, particularly those with a fuller bust, getting the support they need through wireless bralettes? Lingerie Insight interviewed 13 UK-based lingerie brands and retailers to find out.

BRALETTE TREND

DEBATE

Origins of the bralette The bralette, a lightweight, feminine take on the bra, is not a new fashion item. Lingerie Insight remembers first spotting them on the stands of young labels at intimate apparel trade shows four years ago. But as consumers have grown more accustomed to seeing them in fashion magazines and on celebrities, they have become mainstream. The increased demand for this lingerie style has largely been driven by the popularity of ‘athleisure’, which hinges on the fusion of comfort and style, the unstoppable underwear as outerwear trend and busy lifestyles. For AW17, ‘hybrid’ fashionable bralettes that can be worn to the office, the gym or sophisticated evening do have been developed. “The soft bra category has seen a great surge in popularity over the last year, where trends have encouraged customers to buy into this profile,” explains ASOS branded lingerie buyer Rachel Miles. So has the lift in bralette sales come at a cost to the overall lingerie market?

The impact on underwired styles An initial spot poll carried out by Lingerie Insight last month revealed that lingerie brands and retailers have witnessed a fall in underwired sales due to the popularity of the bralette. More than half (54%) of the 57 respondents to the poll, which was posted Lingerieinsight.com and Lingerie Insight’s Twitter page, said they had witnessed a decline in underwired bra sales, while 32% said they hadn’t. But more in-depth analysis contradicts this survey. In fact, all of the 13 brands and retailers we interviewed said they had seen an increase in the sale of bralettes, but not to the detriment of underwired styles, such as the plunge, balconette and push-up bra. Boux Avenue senior lingerie buyer Lisa Annand says: “We haven’t seen a decrease in demand for our underwired bras as a result of the bralette trend. In fact, we sometimes see our customers buying both – an underwired bra for fit and function and a triangle bra as a fashion choice.” John Lewis lingerie buyer Nancy Szachno-Dressel comments: “Underwired bras are still very strong for us despite the crop top trend. Our own-brand John Lewis wired bra has seen a 15% uplift on the year.

The increased demand for the bralette has largely been driven by the ‘athleisure’ trend

“Crop tops and soft pieces are, however, very important and we are actively designing these for our fashion own-brand range and buying them in from brands,” she continues.

Bralettes for bigger boobs It’s no secret that the bralette offers less support than an underwired bra and it’s generally not recommended for everyday wear, especially for fuller-bust customers. “As a plus size brand, many of our customers struggle with the weight of their chest and a bralette just doesn’t give them the support they need,” explains Hannah Isichei, head of PR and marketing at Curvy Kate. “The movement of a heavy bust can be painful and I think our customers are happy with the security a wired bra offers, from day to day.” But while fuller-bust customers won’t be running up any stairs in this lingerie style any time soon, the bralette is fulfilling another purpose. Paris trade show organiser Eurovet said at Salon International de la Lingerie in January that the bralette’s triumph has been driven by its ability to promote freedom of movement and natural curves, and it’s certainly lived up to that role. “The bralette is mainly being purchased for loungewear,” says Claire Woodall, owner of lingerie boutique Lincoln Bra Lady.

The Ines bra and harness from Bluebella

“Many ladies don’t want to go braless in the evening, but they don’t want to put a bra on either. The bralette is filling this gap.” New innovations, such as Bravissimo’s Sleep Bra and the Freya Fancies bralette, are giving larger-cup customers the opportunity to purchase more relaxed lingerie styles. “My job is to ensure that we can offer these types of products to our customers in a way that works for big boobs,” says Bravissimo product manager Clare Harris. “So, for us, it’s an exciting time of innovation. The Sleep Bra received a phenomenal response when we launched it in February and has been a best seller.”

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BRALETTE TREND

Harris believes that it is essential to ensure that all bras – no matter what style – offer the right level of support for each individual customer. “The bralette, in its purest form as a non-wired soft bra, will always offer less support than an highly constructed, underwired bra. However, we treat all our customers as individuals, making choices that are right for them, and so what constitutes enough support will depend on their own individual shape, size and requirements.” Alongside the Freya Fancies bralette, which has been favoured for lounging around the house in, or supporting the wearer in bed, Freya has also launched a new innovation in its Soiree range for AW17. “This combines the look of a bralette with the support of a wire. It combines soft lace with a hidden structure so there’s no compromise on support,” says Freya design and development director Jo West. “We want to give our ladies the choice and the opportunity to buy into these exciting trends. For us, the challenge is to develop products that are fashion-forward, but deliver the high level of fit that our consumers expect.” Meanwhile, at Mimi Holliday, the brand has developed a selection of non-wired styles that incorporate a larger band under the bust, for added support.

In January 2017, 70% of all best-selling Mimi Holiday styles were bralettes, versus 10% in the same period last year 80% 70% 60%

Percentage

DEBATE

40% 30% 20% 10% 0% 2016

“Triangle bras have historically been favoured by smaller cups. However, there are definitely certain styles which enable larger cups to enjoy great support and comfort without compromising on design,” said Mimi Holliday PR and marketing manager Thea Cooper. “Bisou Bisou Zoo and Peach Melba are examples of this, as well as our ‘Shoulder Bra’ styles which, with added support from thicker bands, hold everything in place and ensure comfort all day.”

A blessing or a burden? For many brands and retailers, the bralette is simply another option to add to the lingerie wardrobe, and not a replacement for underwired styles.

The Soiree bra by Freya has the look of a bralette, but with the support of a wire

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50%

LINGERIEINSIGHT July 2017 www.lingerieinsight.co.uk

A triangle bra and corset brief by Mimi Holliday

Year

2017

Rigby & Peller chief stylist Kelly Dunmore says: “I feel [the bralette] can only enhance the market as it simply gives clients another bra shape to make them feel the best version of themselves.” Bluebella CEO Emily Bendell comments: “Bralettes and sports luxe bras are more often worn as crossover outerwear pieces than the traditional wired bra, so these styles are, in my view, expanding the market and taking a share of the ready-to-wear market.” Michele Poynter, owner of Cornwallbased independent retailer Mish, agrees. “It seems that the brands that we stock have included the wireless bralettes as an addition to their collections, rather than a replacement,” she says. “The only area which we have seen a slight decline is in previous highfashion styles, such as the longline bra.” Lizzie Faulder, a former buyer for lingerie, nightwear and beachwear at Fenwick Bond Street, believes the bralette trend will help, not hinder, the growth of the lingerie market. “Any fashion trend within lingerie is beneficial to the industry. Women are now choosing their lingerie with as much thought as they choose their clothing and cosmetics, considering colour and shape, as well as comfort, technology and price.” Debenhams head of lingerie buying and design Sharon Webb seconds that argument and adds: “I think the bralette is adding excitement and newness to the lingerie category. The shape is already evolving, with halter and padded versions being launched.”

CONTOUR FASHION

EMERGING TALENT

Emerging

TALENT

TALENT

Industry giants have hailed a successful 2017 Contour Fashion show hosted by De Montfort University in London last month to mark its 70th anniversary. Lingerie Insight reports on what talent scouts had to say about the next generation of lingerie and swimwear designers www.lingerieinsight.co.uk July 2017 LINGERIEINSIGHT

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EMERGING TALENT

S

CONTOUR FASHION

ome of the biggest names in the intimate apparel industry have sung the praises of Contour Fashion students

from De Montfort University, whose designs graced the catwalk at a London fashion show last month. The 90-minute show, which took place at Covent Garden’s Freemason’s Hall on June 8, featured innovative collections created by 22 final-year students as DMU Contour Fashion – the oldest course of its kind in the world – celebrated its 70th anniversary. The students, whose collections ranged from lingerie and swimwear to corsetry and nightwear, had been selected to take part following a tough selection process, involving industry experts who have formed links with DMU via the Contour Fashion course leader Gillian Proctor. The panel included Lingerie Insight editor Sarah Clarke, Coco de Mer managing director Lucy Litwack, independent lingerie stylist and bra fitting expert Monica Harrington, Debenhams head of menswear design Julian Fuller, freelance consultant Craig Spellar, APM Agency director and founder of The Lingerie Edit David Finlayson and catwalk show producer John Walford. Retail giant Debenhams was the headline sponsor for the event, while industry leaders from Boux Avenue, Tommy Hilfiger, Janet Reger, F&F, Tu and Curvy Kate took up seats to see the next generation of top designers. Aliza Reger is the daughter of the legendary Janet Reger, and took over her mother’s luxury brand in 2005. Janet was among the first students to study Contour Fashion at DMU before setting up her world famous business. Commenting on the show, Aliza said: “The whole staging of the show was superb and the talent was exceptional. I can’t single anything out as it wouldn’t be fair. I really did love the whole show. My mother was one of the first to study Contour Fashion at the university so I am very proud to be here.” Tracey Randall, former executive vicepresident of Design Bra Launch and Innovation at Victoria’s Secret USA, is a DMU alumni who graduated 20 years ago. She said: “I graduated from the course back when it was a polytechnic in the 90’s

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xxxxxxxxxxxxx Lingerie and xxxxxxxxxxxxx corsetry by Molly Falkingham

and our end-of-year show was in the Students’ Union on a Saturday evening, so this is far beyond what we ever experienced. “It is such a fantastic occasion for students to showcase their work and it is really impressive what Gillian and her team have managed to put together this year,” she continued. “I was lucky enough to speak to the students in January at Victoria’s Secret headquarters and offer them words of advice as a former pupil of the course. “I thought the designs were exceptional and the students have really showcased their creative talents and done themselves proud in front of their parents, friends and industry professionals.” Sam Tretton, design manager for Tommy Hilfiger men’s and women’s underwear, also graduated from DMU’s Contour Fashion course. Commenting on the 2017 show, she said: “The venue was a real showstopper and I loved the glitz in the show – that really caught my eye. Glitz is definitely back. “The story telling also came through in every single collection. They were each full of personality and pizzazz. “The high quality workmanship only comes from the DMU Contour course and their alumni. It is on another level.” DMU Chancellor Baroness Doreen Lawrence was enthralled by the show. She said: “I thought the show was brilliant, but I had real difficulty in picking out a

LINGERIEINSIGHT July 2017 www.lingerieinsight.co.uk

Abigail Mellor designed a collection inspired by Japanese architecture

favourite design, I thought they were all exceptional. “If I did have to pick two that really caught my eye, I would say the blue designs which came out first (Ellie Gough) and the oriental designs too (Abigail Mellor), but they all impressed me. “Students were in the presence of industry professionals who could potentially give them a job in the future and it’s great to see how keen and interested they all are to see the student designs. “Gillian is fantastic and I know how difficult it must be to organise the course and get students to this point, but what she’s done is a real credit to her.” Students who saw their designs take to the runway said they were overwhelmed by the occasion.

CONTOUR FASHION

EMERGING TALENT

Creative design student grows lingerie at home A final-year Contour Fashion student at DMU has developed a novel approach to lingerie design – she grows her own materials. Posie Upshall, from Somerset, has created a futuristic lingerie collection using a biodegrable fabric she grew at home. The recipe for the material included green tea, sugar, vinegar and kombucha, a kind of fermented tea. The resulting fabric has a leathery feel and lasts for about 10 years. Upshall laser cut the fabric into lace and added it to her ‘Six Shades of Nude’ collection to create innovative, decorative details. The designer, whose collection was presented at the 2017 Contour Fashion show in London last month, was inspired by Suzanne Lee, who grows her own fabric to make clothes.

Porcelain range by Tamzin Grigg

Active wear by Catherine Lovick

Tamzin Grigg, whose collection was influenced by antique porcelain dolls and dolls’ houses, said: “Today has been such a surreal experience and it was incredibly nerve-wracking watching it backstage. “The whole day has been brilliant and what an amazing setting to celebrate such a fantastic occasion for all of us. “It has been the perfect end to our three years – it is the icing on the cake.”

“Biodegradable material is the future for fashion. We have to be sustainable,” said Upshall. “Fashion is one of the largest polluting industries in the world so we have to think about materials to replace what we already have.” Sophie Welborn drew her influence from the Burj Hotel in Dubai. She said: “Today has been an amazing, overwhelming and surreal experience to end such a brilliant three years at DMU. “It is surreal to see the models walk out in your designs. Seeing everyone come together to appreciate what we do means so much.” Tara O’Donovan, whose design influence was 1970’s constructions and the Broadway club Studio 54, added: “This whole experience is a dream come true. “It is such a privilege for the course to give us this opportunity and what better way for potential future employers to see our work. Jessie Drabble drew influences from the Sheffield steel industry and the women who kept it alive. She commented: “I feel a bit overwhelmed and a bit emotional because this is it for my time studying Contour Fashion at DMU. I am so happy that after all that work the show went without a hitch and I am excited about the future.”

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PRODUCTS & TRENDS

MODE CITY PREVIEW

MODE CITY

LINGERIE PREVIEW We pick out the highlights of the seasonal trade show, which takes place in Paris on July 8-10

Dora Larsen

About: Predicting a revival of padding, this British independent brand has added removable padded triangles and balconettes to its latest collection. These sit alongside unlined full-cup and high apex ‘mini wire’ bras, as well as high-waisted and low-rise knickers. Colour-wise, Dora Larsen has taken inspiration from summer in Miami, with bright pinks, yellows, greens and pastels. Neutral tones inspired by French styling, such as red, navy and rust also feature. Dora Larsen has also introduced eyelash and large-scale cotton eyelash lace to the collection. RRPs: Approx £32 - £52 Stand number: Exposed area Sales contact: [email protected]

Harlow & Fox

Cosabella

About: The new collection from premium fuller-bust brand Harlow & Fox has been crafted using warm metallic copper, vivid red silk and tones of caramel and gold contrasted with black embroidery outlined in gold. New shapes include a steel-boned sheer mesh corset, high-waisted embroidered briefs with decorative button fastening, a two-tone Leavers lace skirt/wrap with silk sash, and a kimono dripping with gold beaded fringing and pearls. RRP: £130 - £189 for bras, £80 - £120 for briefs, £1,200 for beaded kimono Stand number: M84 Sales contact: [email protected]

About: Cosabella’s pre-Spring 18 collection, like AW17, has a glimmer of 70s inspiration, but the overall theme is about going back to the brand’s roots; Italian design. The new range is crafted using novelty fabrics, used in unexpected ways. Shine and texture was also important to Cosabella in creating the collection, which marries plunging necklines with sheer fabric. Colours include berry and emerald, inspired by the jewel tones of Italian frescoes painted on the ceilings of cathedrals and palaces. RRP: £16 - £150 Stand number: S61 Sales contact: [email protected]

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LINGERIEINSIGHT July 2017 www.lingerieinsight.co.uk

Maison Lejaby

About: The SS18 collection from French brand Maison Lejaby has three themes: Sporty Chic, Trendy Vibe and Slow Mood. Sporty Chic is minimalistic, refined and structured; Trendy Vibe is light, seductive and playful; and Slow Mood is soothing and timeless, with tones of white featuring heavily. One highlight is Tattoo (pictured), featuring innovative second-skin embroidery presented in Sporty Chic style. RRP: TBC Sales contact: Brigitte Chauchon, [email protected]

MODE CITY PREVIEW

Adina Reay

PRODUCTS & TRENDS

Naturana

About: Fuller-bust brand Adina Reay explores a very sexy aesthetic this season. Expect sudden touches of neon on a base of dusted metallic rose, faux peek-a-boo styling using nude tulle to create an illusion of bare skin and delicate black lace. British brand Adina Reay specialises in designing premium, trend-led underwear for sizes 28DD to 36G, using whisper-fine yet strong fabrics to maximise support within the cup. This allows for the use of delicate straps and the reduction of coverage over the bust, sides and back. RRP: £40 - £130 Stand number: P85 Sales contact: Sharon Lake, [email protected]

About: Heritage brand Naturana prides itself on providing women with practical, modern and comfortable lingerie for everyday wear. Key features include flat seams, double moulded cups and dainty lace detail. For SS18, Naturana has added an underwired, animal-printed style to its best-selling minimiser collection. The new style also has padded straps for extra comfort. Naturana has also built on its sports bra collection with a new style designed with extra support panels, double moulding and removable pads. Designed in grey marl, the sports bra has internal hooks, in addition to a zip, for security. RRP: TBC Stand number: S50 Sales contact: Tom Kavanagh, [email protected]

Promise Bridal

About: Spanish lingerie brand Promise will return to Mode City Paris with a bridal range crafted using lace and satin. The range offers a choice of bras, briefs, bustiers and feminine nightwear designed for the wedding night. All styles are presented in gift boxes. Patricia Eve distributes Promise in the UK. RRP: TBC Stand number: K12 Sales contact: Chris Eve, [email protected]

Freya

About: Freya presents a new lingerie collection and reveals a brand refresh for SS18. The collection is designed to fit into everyday life, offering a choice of soft, casual styles to bring light to the working week, while vibrant colours, bold prints and fun lace styles fit into the weekend wardrobe. The new season welcomes Daisy Lace, featuring geometric lace in two colourways: noir and pink and blush with contrasting grey. This collection offers a balcony bra (B-K) and bralette (XS-XL) with a choice of coordinates. RRP: £11 - £44 Stand number: J25 Sales contact: Evelyne Piegay, +33 6 7339 0057 www.lingerieinsight.co.uk July 2017 LINGERIEINSIGHT

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PRODUCTS & TRENDS

MODE CITY PREVIEW

Bluebella

About: Inspired by lifestyles that overrule convention and tradition, Bluebella returns to Paris with a contemporary collection of lingerie and nightwear with provocative allure. Midnight shades are enhanced with a cosmetic-inspired palette, to create a seductive dalliance on the skin. The provocative undertones blend with the delicate freshness of sheer fabrics, ethereal lace, stretch mesh and opulent guipure. RRP: £18 - £48 Stand number: M90 Sales contact: [email protected]

Blue Label

About: Naturana has launched a new lingerie label to mark its 100th anniversary. Blue Label has been created for the mid-range market, with prices ranging from £30 to £40. The range consists of a lace spacer bra, a classic moulded style available with and without wires, and a lace series in champagne and spring red. Highlights include Valencia, an all-over lace style available in a three-section cup and a full cup lined with semi-transparent mesh. RRP: TBC Stand number: S50 Sales contact: Tom Kavanagh, [email protected]

Cybele

About: Cybele, the fashion-forward range from Naturana, is launching a more youthful and playful collection for SS18, using lush embroidery and lace, and eye-catching colour palettes of electric blue, apricot and royal blue contrasted with black and white. Selected styles match Cybele’s nightwear range of nightdresses, pyjamas, vest tops and shorts. As always, Cybele is offering a range of styles in black, white, skin tone and champagne, together with the popular ornate lace 17401 style. RRP: TBC Stand number: S50 Sales contact: Tom Kavanagh, [email protected]

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LINGERIEINSIGHT July 2017 www.lingerieinsight.co.uk

Eva

About: Eva, the luxury brand from Naturana, presents a collection of statement lingerie and loungewear pieces for SS18, combining finest fabrics and finishes. The Bohemian lace series features graphic lace combined with cotton in a choice of black or white. The range offers a high-apex underwired bra, padded bandeau wired bra, thong and briefs. Meanwhile, Bohemian Flower is inspired by a French spring garden, in all its colourful hues. Other new styles include Calm Beauty, a floral lace design in emerald (pictured), and the Serene Beauty nightgown crafted in viscose fabric, with delicate tulle on the neck and hem. RRP: TBC Stand number: S50 Sales contact: Tom Kavanagh, [email protected]

MODE CITY PREVIEW

Fleur of England

PRODUCTS & TRENDS

Cleo by Panache

About: The latest collection from British brand Fleur of England features modern shapes, whilst maintaining the same sensual and feminine style the brand is known for. New lines include Margaux (pictured), crafted using strapping detail, bespoke rose embroidery and Bordeaux invisible tulle. The range, available in scarlet red, features silver hardware for a luxurious and directional finish. Another new line is Affection, featuring elegant styles in blush. Stand-out pieces from Affection include a new ouvert brief and motif suspender belt. RRP: £55 - £400 Stand number: M82 Sales contact: Jennie Lodge, jennie@fleurofengland.com

About: Cleo, the fashion-led range by size D+ specialist Panache, will showcase the underwear as outerwear trend and summerready brights paired with flirty contrast features, strap detailing and sport luxe accents. New for this season is Lyzy, a sheer and lace non-wired bra, and the Spencer bra, featuring an ink colourway on a midi shape with a criss-cross design. Cleo’s trademark tropical brights also feature strongly in the SS18 collection. Dakota showcases a tropical Orchid print on a white background, while Marcie has been updated in zingy lime. Muted blue tones also appear in the collection, inspired by lazy summer days. RRP: £11 - £56 Stand number: S38 Sales contact: Oriane Druesne, 0114 2418 888

LingaDore

About: The new LingaDore lingerie collection features four lines inspired by nature; Dune, Olive, Tangerine and Shell. Dune is a sand-coloured range finished with copper embroidery. The range offers a gel bra, uni-fit bra, brief, hipster and string. Meanwhile, the Olive range, in olive-green, features feminine lingerie and nightwear, including a new triangle bralette, alongside a spaghetti top, French knicker and chemise. Tangerine is a bright collection crafted using contrasting soft pink and purple embroidery. This range offers a T-shirt bra, balconette bra, Brazilian shorty and a string. Shell, in ivory, was crafted using a satin jacquard and features a new bustier, suitable for brides. RRP: €26.95 - €59.95 (£23.71 - £52.76) Stand number: S30 Sales contact: Julie Robb, [email protected]

Sculptresse

About: Fuller-figure brand Sculptresse, by Panache, will return to Paris with a mix of elegant prints, feminine lace and cut-away detailing. The Sculptresse iconic Chi Chi bra drops in a muted floral print on an ivory background for pared-back elegance, while Candi features a delicate floral print on a midnight blue background for an edgy look. New for this season is Dionne (pictured), a full-cup bra featuring a monochrome geometric print for a trend-led look, and Estel, featuring cut-away detailing on a black and white pattern design for a luxe feel. Also new to the Sculptresse range is the Siren Plunge and structured Dana strapless styles in vintage and linen nude colourways. RRP: £11 - £56 Stand number: S38 Sales contact: Oriane Druesne, 0114 2418 888 www.lingerieinsight.co.uk July 2017 LINGERIEINSIGHT

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PRODUCTS & TRENDS

MODE CITY PREVIEW

Rosa Faia

About: Bold, modern and versatile sums up the new Rosa Faia collection for SS18. With two new creations for the everyday luxe market and a new colourway for best-selling bra Charlize, there is plenty to present to buyers this season, particularly because the Grazia Big Cup bra now fits up to a J cup. RRP: From £45 Stand number: N18 Sales contact: Jemma Barnes, 01908 524048

Magic BodyFashion

Cupid Fine

About: Dutch shapewear and lingerie solutions brand Magic BodyFashion will introduce the new Va Va Voom backless bra to buyers this season. The drawstring front closure is designed to enhance the push-up effect. Also new to the brand is the Dream collection, a line of three bras and bralettes in grey, rose, ivory and black. RRP: £20 - £26 Stand number: R50 Sales contact: Philippa Bradley Agencies, 020 7499 4598

About: Shapewear brand Cupid Fine will showcase ‘adJUST Perfect’, designed to adjust up or down in size while still providing the same firm but comfortable control, and Strapless Solutions, a range of strapless shapewear. Both lines feature a ‘Wonderful Edge’ silicon finish under the legs that is designed to prevent visible lines and ride-up. RRP: £35-£80 approx Stand number: R17 Sales contact: Chris Eve of Patricia Eve, [email protected]

Anita Care

About: New for Anita Care, is the Extreme Control sports bra for post-surgical use, ensuring that women who have undergone breast surgery can focus on their workout properly supported and with peace of mind. There is also a new colour palette for Charlize, Miss Dotty, Amica, Josephine and Tonya this season. RRP: From £43 Stand number: N18 Sales contact: Jemma Barnes, 01908 524048

Miraclesuit

About: US shapewear label Miraclesuit has launched a new collection designed to adapt to the changing shape of women’s bodies. The new Flexible Fit range, comprised of a body, a high waisted brief and a high waisted thigh slimmer, features flexible fabric to adjust to fluctuating body weight while continuing to deliver extra firm control. These garments incorporate ‘Wonderful Panel’ construction, which places flexible, stitch-free, no-show panels – of various sizes and shapes – at strategic places on each shaper, independent of any seams. RRP: £30 - £70 approx Stand number: R17 Sales contact: [email protected]

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LINGERIEINSIGHT July 2017 www.lingerieinsight.co.uk

Panache

About: For SS18, Panache draws inspiration from the global traveller, providing escapism and excitement through vivid colours, lavish tropical brights and elements of dare to bare detailing. The range embodies an eclectic, colourful theme with pink hues featured alongside touches of muted blue tones, and sunshine-ready statement animal prints that create a luxuriously laid back style. RRP: £11 - £56 Stand number: S38 Sales contact: Oriane Druesne, 0114 2418 888

MODE CITY PREVIEW

PRODUCTS & TRENDS

Wacoal

About: Wacoal introduces Irresistible for SS18, a luxury collection featuring a contemporary design with all-over embroidery. Irresistible comes in black, decorated with delicate Leavers two-tone lace, a Chantilly lace centre, a scallop edge in a contrasting colourway and a guipure rosebud motif. The collection offers a bralette, balcony bra and plunge bra alongside matching briefs – a short and tanga (all available in S-XL) RRP: £14 - £120 Stand number: J25 Sales contact: Evelyne Piegay, +33 6 7339 0057

Elomi

About: SS18 welcomes a brand refresh for Elomi, delivering a vibrant and striking collection of styles designed for curves. New collections unveil subtle shades of sheer, seductive strap detailing, bold and vibrant prints and striking shades of pink, purple and red. A highlight from the range is Sachi, a simple yet striking collection featuring sheer and solid panelling and strappy detailing. The collection features a plunge bra (E-JJ), a brief (M-4XL) and full brief (M-4XL). RRP: £20 - £44 Stand number: J25 Sales contact: Evelyne Piegay, +33 6 7339 0057

b.tempt’d

Fantasie

About: New collections from Fantasie sit under two themes for SS18. While some styles are inspired by modern purity, showcasing graphic and geometric trends offering clean, structured and refined silhouettes in soft, muted tones, others are more contemporary, offering handcrafted embroidery and decorative lace in jewel tones. A stand-out style from the collection is Fusion, featuring a soft-handle stripe jacquard fabric with a gold tab trim. The line is available in a side support bra (D-H), an average coverage bra (D-GG) and matching briefs (XS-XXL). RRP: £15 - £60 Stand number: J25 Sales contact: Evelyne Piegay, +33 6 7339 0057

About: b.tempt’d introduces a collection of stylish and feminine designs for SS18, created with intricate detailing designed to make the wearer look and feel confident. The brand’s latest must-have style for SS18 is Undisclosed, decorated in stretch lace, featuring a soft floral pattern that contracts against the underlay. The range launches in a contour bra (B-E) and an UW bralette (S-XL), complete with matching thong (S-XL). RRP: £10 - £38 Stand number: J25 Sales contact: Evelyne Piegay, +33 6 7339 0057 www.lingerieinsight.co.uk July 2017 LINGERIEINSIGHT

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EVENTS

SOCIAL LITE

Final-year student Georgia Phillips presents her collections at DMU’s Contour Fashion Show in London

Social Lite What Katie Did hosts a lock-in for bloggers at its London Boutique on Portobello Road

Lucy Watkins presents swimwear influenced by Roman architecture at the 2017 Contour Fashion Show

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Lingerie and swimwear brand Luvli Lounge promotes body confidence at an Oxford Street summer party

LINGERIEINSIGHT July 2017 www.lingerieinsight.co.uk

A model walks the runway at the Katie Eary show during London Fashion Week Men’s. Credit: Getty

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