Lingerie Insight 2017-08

AUGUST 2017 / VOL 08 ISSUE 04 www.lingerieinsight.com

The bra fit probe THE RECOGNISED STATISTIC THAT MOST WOMEN ARE WEARING THE WRONG BRA SIZE IS CALLED INTO QUESTION

Exclusive interview JOHN LEWIS’ NANCY SZACHNO-DRESSEL ON THE CHALLENGES SHE FACES AS A LINGERIE BUYER

FULLER BUST: BEST-SELLING LINGERIE STYLES OF THE YEAR WACOAL EUROPE: THE LINGERIE AND SWIMWEAR GROUP UNDERGOES A REFRESH

HAPPY DAYS

THE ONLY WAY IS UP FOR NATURANA AFTER RESTRUCTURING ITS SALES TEAM AND ADDING EXCITING NEW LINES TO ITS OFFERING

Lingerie up to a JJ Cup

fantasielingerie.com

Contents VOLUME 08 • ISSUE 04

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5 | Front

The latest headlines A round-up of this month’s top stories from lingerie, hosiery, nightwear and swimwear industries.

12 | John Lewis

of women are wearing the wrong bra size. It has made the headlines the world over, but is it factually accurate? And with no go-to international fitting standard, how can we prove it?

Exclusive interview

25 | Naturana

Lingerie buyer Nancy Szachno-Dressel discusses the challenges and opportunities facing her department today, from competing with other high street stores and increasing the retailer’s share of the market to deciding on which brands to stock and growing own-brand.

Industry Q&A

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12

After restructuring its sales team and adding new product categories in the last year, Naturana UK’s sales and marketing director Tom Kavanagh discusses the group’s performance and its strengthening relationships with key retail partners.

16 | Fuller-bust

27 | Chantelle

Consumer trends

New recruit

Better education on the importance of fit combined with online platforms connecting the consumer with e-tailers and physical stores has led to a greater awareness on the market availability of fuller-bust brands. So what are consumers’ favourite larger-cup styles and what will they be buying in SS18? We speak to leading DD+ brands to find out.

Renaud Cambuzat has transformed the brand’s imagery and revitalised its graphic designs and tone of voice for SS18.

40 | Wacoal Europe

20

Brand refresh Wacoal Europe has taken the decision to refresh its brand portfolio in time for SS18. Brand director Laura Simon explains what this means for the future of the lingerie and swimwear group.

20 | Fit myth probe

Industry analysis Industry professionals have raised their doubts over the statistic that 70-85%

Check out Page 28 for a sneak preview of the collections set to go on display at INDX this month

25 40

27 43

43 | Post surgery

New innovations Experts in the post-surgery lingerie sector discuss some of the positive trends that are driving growth in the market and the exciting new innovations that are launching in stores nationwide.

48 | Swimwear trends

SS18 highlights Swimwear trends to look out for in SS18. www.lingerieinsight.co.uk August 2017 LINGERIEINSIGHT

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COMMENT

WELCOME

My doubts over the ill-fitting bra statistic When I became editor of Lingerie Insight in 2013, one of the first things I was told was that around 80% of women are wearing the wrong bra size. I was shocked by this statistic, as most people working outside the industry tend to be. Ever since then, the statistic has been repeated again and again, through industry press releases and in national headlines. And four years on, the statistic remains unchanged, despite a much greater awareness of how bras should fit and the market availability of lingerie and swimwear brands amongst today’s consumers. This got me thinking about how accurate this statistic actually is. Hasn’t the lingerie industry done enough to improve this figure through its numerous fit campaigns both in store and online? I put this question to suppliers and fitting consultants in the intimate apparel sector, and several experts confirmed I was right to have my doubts. “It makes for a good story, but is it really true?,” one industry professional said. “My guess is that the more people heard the statistic, the more they used it,” said another. I realised from my research that the ill-fitting bra statistic could be nothing more than an urban myth. But is it? In an in-depth feature, we look into where this statistic came from, the studies behind it (if, indeed, there are any), and whether in fact we should be encouraging consumers to know their bra size at all. When sizes vary so much from brand to brand and style to style, shouldn’t we be focusing on fit rather than numbers and letters? Turn to page 20 to find the answers. Also in this issue, suppliers in the fuller-bust sector reveal their best-selling styles and consumers’ biggest demands over the last 12 months. We also speak to postsurgery brands and retailers, who discuss some of the positive trends that are driving growth in the field, and the exciting new innovations that are launching in stores nationwide as a result. And taking the interview hot seat this month are Wacoal Europe brand director Laura Simon, Naturana UK sales and marketing director Tom Kavanagh and John Lewis lingerie buyer Nancy Szachno-Dressel. Enjoy the issue!

Sarah Clarke

EDITOR, LINGERIE INSIGHT

August Cover Model wears: A underwired lace cup bra and brief from Naturana (style 87543)

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LINGERIEINSIGHT August 2017 www.lingerieinsight.co.uk

NEWS REVIEW

THIS MONTH IN LINGERIE AND SWIMWEAR

FRONT

NEWS IN BRIEF WEB HIGHLIGHTS

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The new ZERO Feel range consists of colourful bralettes and bra tops

Sloggi channels comfort values with new innovations and sub-label

S

loggi has announced the launch of new innovations in the UK market and a premium bodywear sub-label for SS18. The brand will introduce its popular ZERO Feel Bralette and Bra-top in the UK next year, after seeing the innovations fly off the shelves in other global markets. The range will enter stores on March 8, to mark

International Women’s Day, and will be at the centre of a global campaign for SS18. The move comes after sloggi sold more 1.75 million pieces from the collection in Japan alone last year. ZERO Feel, which includes a bralette, bra-top, hipster briefs and Brazilian briefs, was crafted using a Japanese 40-gauge fabric – patented until 2020.

This 360° stretch fabric is designed to adjust to the shape of the wearer, creating a feeling akin to a second skin. It is also seam-free and label-free to prevent marks and irritations. “By channelling sloggi’s core values of innovation and true comfort, we have developed a product that we hope will empower women to embrace who they are

in an unrestricted way and encourage them to feel happy and confident in their own skin,” said Anna Stark, head of marketing at sloggi for the UK, Ireland, Nordics and Benelux regions. “Feeling comfortable is the latest trend in fashion driven by consumers who want to live their lives to the full. story continues on page 7

FOR THE LATEST LINGERIE INDUSTRY NEWS AND INSIGHT HEAD TO www.lingerieinsight.co.uk August 2017 LINGERIEINSIGHT

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FRONT NEWS REVIEW

news review new retail concept, bringing to life the brand’s fusion of heritage and innovation, which Triumph expects to improve retail profitability.

US brand Jockey has teamed up with Urban Outfitters to create a branded collection of underwear inspired by intimates styles of the 1980s. Prompted by campaign imagery on retro Jockey packaging, Urban Outfitters reached out to the underwear brand to collaborate on a product line together. From there, the two brands worked sideby-side to re-work archival Jockey products and produce a capsule collection made up of high-rise bikini briefs, Y-front hipster briefs, a matching sports bra, cropped tees and boxer shorts. Triumph is set to close all of its own-brand retail stores by the end of September, with plans to replace them with new concept stores in more profitable locations. The closing stores are all within close proximity to Triumph wholesale accounts, which will continue to serve consumers, alongside the company’s e-commerce site. Triumph closed its shops in Swindon and Exeter last month and other affected locations are Bluewater, Cambridge and Walton in Surrey. Future Triumph store openings are planned for high footfall locations and will feature a

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American businesswoman and socialite Paris Hilton has found a new venture – designing lingerie. The celebrity entrepreneur took to Instagram last month to share a sneak preview of her debut Paris Hilton Lingerie collection. Hilton posted two photographs of herself model-

sories collection. In 2011, the brand launched its first beachwear range. Independent lingerie brand Raine & Bea has reached the finals of the prestigious Be Inspired Business Awards (BIBAS). The label has been shortlisted in the Micro Business of the Year category after undergoing an intense interview process with a panel of judges. In the coming weeks, the judges will visit the brand at its studios in Clitheroe, Lancashire, to see the creative team in action. The BIBAS is a long-running awards ceremony run by the North and Western Lancashire Chambers of Commerce.The 2017 winners will be announced at a ceremony at the Blackpool Tower Ballroom on September 15. Fuller bust lingerie retailer Bravissimo has announced its intentions to open a bricks

ling the line, which features a padded plunge bra with smooth cups and lace inserts, satin suspender belts and a printed plunge bra in navy. The news comes just days after she announced the launch of her new clothing line. UK Fashion Agents has formed a new partnership with British brand Pia Rossini. The company will represent the brand segment at forthcoming industry trade shows and handle the sales of the label’s beachwear segment in the UK. Pia Rossini was established in 1999, when founders Philip and Debbie Shaw, who share a passion for Italian prints, created a range of scarves. The venture was successful and the pair soon began to expand their acces-

LINGERIEINSIGHT August 2017 www.lingerieinsight.co.uk

and mortar store in the United States. The brand launched its first ecommerce site in the US last week, with the aim of filling a gap in the market for a wide range of bras in bigger cup sizes. And now Bravissimo is eyeing locations for its first physical store in the country. Founder Sarah Tremellen

said: “We know that the choice of bras available in bigger cup sizes is limited in the US, and that there are many, many women in the US who are D cup or above, so we are very excited to be bringing Bravissimo to the big boobed women of the USA. Reality TV stars Kendall and Kylie Jenner have released a new swimwear range with celebrity e-tailer Revolve. The sisters’ collection with the online store Kendall + Kylie is the duo’s second swimwear offering, after working with Topshop last year. The 23-item collection features swimsuits and bikinis featuring cut-outs, 80’s-inspired high cut bottoms a camouflage print, mesh details and solid brights. Pure Chemistry has launched an affordable diffusion line for SS18. Love Laboratory offers a range of colourful bralettes, briefs and thongs packaged in a test tube, ideal for generating add-on sales. The collection comes in a range of colours, including powder pink and bold red, with a contrasting black Chantilly lace trim and 24ct gold-plated components. Prices range from £26 for a pair of briefs to £35 for a bralette.

NEWS REVIEW

story continued from page 5

We’re really excited to bring this innovative product to market to complement this trend.” The launch of ZERO Feel follows the successful introduction of the Wow Comfort bra earlier this year, an updated version of sloggi’s ‘comfort first’ bra, with innovative ‘Fleximesh’ technology replacing the usual metal underwire with a revolutionary, ergonomically shaped mesh material. Meanwhile, sloggi has unveiled plans to “redefine premium bodywear” with the launch of the new sub-label for SS18. S by sloggi consists of four seamless underwear lines for men and women. Highlights include the Serenity line, featuring modal/elastine fabric,

FRONT

ComfyCups and FlexiMesh technology, which replaces the usual metal underwire with a ergonomically shaped mesh material. The range is designed to offer unrivalled comfort without compromising on style. “For too long women have sacrificed their comfort in order to look sexy and compromised style for functionality – it shouldn’t be an either or, we should feel amazing, and look great too, which is what S by sloggi offers,” said Stark. “We want to dispel the myth that comfort, functionality and a sleek, sophisticated design are mutually exclusive and offer women a range that is premium, yet embodies the core values of our brand – innovation and true comfort.”

The Serenity line from the new S by sloggi sub-brand

www.lingerieinsight.co.uk August 2017 LINGERIEINSIGHT

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FRONT

NEWS REVIEW

news review

INVISTA has development a new platform to help casual bra designers select quality fabrics to deliver strong garment performance. The Lycra Bra Fabric Finder was developed in response to the current consumer-driven shift towards casual bras, including wire-free bras, sports bras, bralettes or bandeaus. The new innovation is designed to help designers easily identify the best fabric construction and add functionality to any casual bra collection. The Lycra Bra Finder works by allowing designers to select the desired comfort and support level they need in fabrics to develop active bras, everyday bras and leisure bras, followed by the shaping type – natural, for a softer silhouette, or power, for more defined curves. British hosiery brand Pretty Polly is extending its best-selling Naturals collection with a range of skin tone tights for SS18. After successfully selling its Naturals range of sheer tights in retail stores across the globe for several years, Pretty Polly will introduce six new pairs in six skin tones. The new collection offers 7 denier sheer tights made with flat seams and a cotton gusset. Martin Winkler is stepping into the role of CEO at hosiery company Falke with immedi-

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ate effect. Winkler replaces Uwe Bergheim, who is leaving the company for retirement. He joins the company from LG Electronics where he was chief operating officer, responsible for the consumer business in Germany.

Taylor + Rani, a British brand specialising in developing lingerie for teenagers and girls, has expanded its product offering with the addition of interchangeable bralettes. The brand has designed two bralettes, Mornington and Teh Jaipur, which can be worn two ways; showing either a patterned or plain fabric.

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Diane Houston, the new affordable diffusion line from luxury lingerie and loungewear brand Gilda & Pearl has landed two major stockists in the UK and Ireland. Starting this month, the collection will go on sale at Brown Thomas, which has been named the exclusive stockist for Diane Houston in Ireland. It will then launch into John Lewis’ flagship store on Oxford Street, and online at Johnlewis.com, on October 5.

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Editor’s Choice

Lingerie brand turns down £2.7 million takeover offer SNEAK PEEK: Bluebella SS18

Triumph to close all UK retail stores Julianne Moore is the new face of Florale by Triumph

COLLECTION

VIDEO

Maryan Mehlhorn SS18

Miradonna by Miraclesuit

The new collection features clean lines alongside opulent looks and textile innovations.

The shaping swimwear brand presents its second collection after a successful first season.

NEWS

ANALYSIS

Wolford chief executive steps down

What’s driving the great swimsuit revival?

Ashish Sensarma, who has served as CEO since January 7, 2015, resigned at the end of July.

Swimwear experts discuss the reasons behind the growing popularity of the one-piece.

Interfilière reveals lingerie trends forecast for AW18 Retailer creates buzz over traffic-stopping campaign Is the ill-fitting bra statistic an urban myth? New design graduates shun London jobs over cost of living Beija London expands into wholesale, gains first stockist Victoria’s Secret to open first store in Milton Keynes

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Congrats to @item_m6UK for

Writing a fashion blog, you realize

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2017 for their COSY Tights!

to not only hate their bodies, but

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RETAIL TALK

JOHN LEWIS

A bodysuit from John Lewis’ AND/OR collection

John Lewis uncovered In an exclusive interview with Lingerie Insight, John Lewis lingerie buyer Nancy Szachno-Dressel discusses the challenges and opportunities facing her department today, from competing with other high street stores and increasing the retailer’s share of the market to deciding on which brands to stock and growing own-brand

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t’s coming up to five years since you joined John Lewis. How have you seen the lingerie department evolve in that time? One of the main reasons why I was brought on board was to develop our

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own-brand collections. These are now our best-selling collections, and own-brand has grown more than 25% over the last five years. The challenge, because of the space we have in store, is how we grow both brands and ownbrands at the same time. There has

LINGERIEINSIGHT August 2017 www.lingerieinsight.co.uk

also been change in terms of brand performance over the last five years. For example, Calvin Klein has grown significantly over the last three years, with the rise of the modern cotton crop-top. We’ve worked really hard with our top-selling brands, including

JOHN LEWIS

Fantasie, Triumph and Calvin Klein, to really grow their business because it’s what our customers want. Sloggi has also done really well for us – seasonally, sales are up 159%. Some of the colours are very bright and vibrant, but there is an appetite from our customers for this. What are some of the other main challenges you face as a lingerie buyer? It’s no news that we share some of the same big brands as other department stores on the high street. The challenge for me is how we differentiate our assortment at John Lewis with a unique proposition. So how do you do that? We pride ourselves on our Partners in store and our renowned customer service and experience at John Lewis. We’re lucky that some of our Partners who fit lingerie are highly experienced and have been with John Lewis for over 25 years. By having strength in our ownbrand collections we are able to provide our customers with unique designs

and quality products they cannot find anywhere else. The launch of our new AND/OR collection has been fantastic and we have seen such a positive reaction from customers. How do your brands feel about you offering own-brand? Our John Lewis collections and ownbrands have always been there. We sit our fashion brands, such as AND/OR, alongside other contemporary lingerie brands as they complement one another. Then of course we have a much broader assortment of lingerie from basics to shapewear. What is important to us is that we don’t duplicate our offer so that we can give our customer more choice. How would you describe the John Lewis customer? As a department store, our customers are from all walks of life. We try to be there for our customers throughout their lives, whether it the first school uniform, being fitted for their first bra, buying their first home, having their first child etc. Within lingerie, we have

RETAIL TALK

customers across all age ranges. It is important for us to cater across body types by offering over 900 options in sizes ranging from 28A to 44G. How has the department performed in terms of sales growth this financial year? The lingerie department is up HYTD 2% on the last financial year, so its great to see that we are growing year on year. How are in-store sales performing compared to online? Online makes up around 20-25% of our sales, but in-store service is very important for lingerie so that you can get that expert fit and advice.

Nancy SzachnoDressel

xxxxxxxx xxxxxxxxxxx

www.lingerieinsight.co.uk August 2017 LINGERIEINSIGHT

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RETAIL TALK

JOHN LEWIS

Fantasie is one of John Lewis’ best-selling brands

How do you decide which brands to stock? Our customers are at the heart of everything we do. It’s important that any brands we stock will resonate with our customers. I am always looking for exclusive brands that will want to work with us at John Lewis. Any brand we work with has to be commercially viable,

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with a good size range and price point, so that it offers good value to our customer.

fit isn’t credible after a D then the brand won’t work for our customers.

Would you like to stock more niche, young brands? As a buyer, of course I would. We always think of the customer first and what is important is ensuring that we offer our customers a range of brands and inspire them with our unique proposition. However, you’ve got to think of it quite commercially. A new luxury brand that comes in at the mid £50 mark is too expensive for me to do anything with. It’s quite challenging because lingerie is MOQ [minimum order quantity] driven, so a lot of these niche brands are either made in the UK or in Eastern Europe and their prices are quite high. It’s difficult for niche brands because after a product passes the £45 mark it’s really hard to get the distribution. You could be London-centric, doing really well in a couple of stores, but you can’t really scale.

Are there any brands that you have your eye on for SS18? I’m yet to finalise my strategy for SS18, but what I would say is that we are missing an entry price-point fashion brand. It’s really hard to find that though because high street shops, like Zara or & Other Stories, are all offering some form of lingerie. They are doing it in a very small way, but they edit it well.

How do you know if a new brand is going to sell? Fit, fabrication and comfort are very important. If a product doesn’t fit, it isn’t going to sell. I often ask for fit samples and, with a lot of brands, I ask to see what the F cup looks like because if the

LINGERIEINSIGHT August 2017 www.lingerieinsight.co.uk

Tell us more about the new AND/ OR brand. When did this launch? The collection launched as part of a new womenswear lifestyle brand in March. It has the essence of AND/OR throughout and we introduced lace crop tops and bodies, which have seen great results. The size range is 32-36 B-F on most styles. The response has been absolutely phenomenal. How do you see the John Lewis lingerie department evolving over the next few years? We’re looking at how we can gain market share through our product and brand assortment and the service we provide in store. That’s the main thing that I’m keen on focusing on.

L I NGE RIE UP TO A K CUP F R E YA L I N G E R I E . CO M

PRODUCTS & TRENDS

FULLER BUST LINGERIE

FULLER BUST

FAVOURITES Better education on the importance of fit combined with online platforms connecting the consumer with e-tailers and physical stores has led to a greater awareness on the market availability of fuller-bust brands. So what are consumers’ favourite larger-cup styles and what will they be buying in SS18? We speak to leading DD+ brands to find out

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arger-busted women have never been better

served by the lingerie and swimwear industries. A better understanding of the importance of fit and a huge demand for fashionable underwear has lead to a greater choice of styles in D cup or above, and thanks to the explosion of ecommerce and social media, consumers now have a greater awareness of the plethora of brands available on the market. “Online has transformed the market and women can discover everything that is out there with a few clicks of a button. It has never been a more exciting time to be either a consumer or a designer in this sector – beautiful new pieces are coming on to the market every week,” says Emily Bendell, the founder and CEO of Bluebella, which launched its fuller-bust sister brand MORE by Bluebella 18 months ago. “We have noticed that consumers are becoming a lot more experimental and are looking to try out exciting new brands like ours,” she adds. “I think a big part of that switch has been the growing popularity of online retail and particularly the free returns which Bluebella offers. It means you can try a new brand without any risk of losing your money if the bra isn’t quite right or doesn’t fit.”

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LF Intimates, which manufactures lingerie and swimwear brands Charnos, Lepel and Lepel London, has also seen an increase in fuller-bust consumers shopping online. “The ecommerce trend has been growing for years. This leads us to believe that they understand their fit more and are confident enough to re-buy from brands they know,”

The popular Fiore bra from Lepel

LINGERIEINSIGHT August 2017 www.lingerieinsight.co.uk

said UK sales director Peter Cronin. But online isn’t solely a platform for sales; it has also helped connect consumers with bricks and mortar boutiques. “Consumers are engaging more with independent lingerie boutiques or local department stores which have staff trained to fit bras,” says Panache product and planning coordinator Alysia Brown. “For us, this is great as it means that the consumer gets the full experience of finding a great fitting bra from a professional bra specialist in store, which we encourage every woman to do.” This AW17 will see Panache launch a new campaign designed to educate women on how to find the perfect fit, whether that’s online or in store. The Find Your Fit campaign features a new online bra fitting guide and documentary-style fitting advice video. Panache-accredited retailers will also host fit events to get the message out to new customers. Leigh Norris, director of Marketing at Panache, commented: “Our new campaign encourages women to get fitted for their current shape and size and to finally find the right fit. That ‘wow’ moment when you Find Your Fit, that banishes bulges and saggy straps can make women feel a million dollars.” Wacoal has also expanded its focus on fit over the last year.

FULLER BUST LINGERIE

PRODUCTS & TRENDS

“Firstly, the group has developed a series of new bra fitting videos for each of its brands. Available in nine different versions across languages, the videos are hosted by some of the group’s most experienced fitting consultants who guide viewers through the stages of a perfectly fitting bra,” says Belinda Leca, head of sales for Freya, Fantasie and Elomi. “Additionally, Wacoal Europe has developed its Fitting School programme, a scheme which the business runs internally to educate retailers about the importance of bra fitting, how its brands fit and to provide knowledge and expertise on bra fit, as well as fit training.” So now we know how fuller-bust customers are shopping and what’s driving growth in this sector, what do we suppose they are buying, in terms of styles and colours, both online and in store? Lingerie Insight finds out from leading fuller-bust brands in the industry and discovers what design details consumers are demanding from suppliers and what they’ll be buying next season.

Fuller-bust trends Thanks to clever fabric innovations, the biggest trends seen across A-D collections are now being translated into styles and shapes that work for bigger boobs. For example, Freya has a launched the Soiree bralette for AW17. This combines the look of the popular bralette with the support of a wire and merges soft lace with a hidden structure. Fuller-bust brands are also playing with softer-handle fabrics in line with the current trend for comfort bras and fashionable styles that can be worn everyday. “We are seeing the leisure and comfort trend filtering into the lingerie segment,” says Brown. “Getting the right mix between a relaxed look and great support is becoming more and more important for the larger-busted lady. This is a trend which the Panache technical team is exploring, and for Panache designers it is exciting to bring these elements into our existing styles.” Triumph global head of creative design Sian Thomas agrees, adding: “Lightness is the continued need we have seen as far as our fuller-cup customer is concerned. She wants bras that are lightweight, Sienna is a best-selling bra for Charnos delicate and sophisticated and www.lingerieinsight.co.uk August 2017 LINGERIEINSIGHT

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PRODUCTS & TRENDS

FULLER BUST LINGERIE

understands and trusts Triumph to bring their fit and support expertise to deliver this without compromising on look.” DD+ lingerie labels are also playing around with transparency, using power mesh and stretch lace, and experimenting with strapping details and bold prints. “Within prints, there are trends of both futuristic and geometric styling, as well as nature and earthy tones, and these can be seen for AW17 throughout Panache, Cleo and Sculptresse brands,” says Brown. So, the biggest trend in the DD+ lingerie sector is creating product which creates a similar buzz and excitement to the smaller cup ranges, Bendell suggests.

“A lingerie buyer in the DD+ sector does not want to have to compromise on style, just because she is focussed on a larger-cup range,” she adds.

Best-selling styles So what have larger-cup consumers been buying this year, both in store and online? We asked fuller-bust brands to share their best-selling styles of the year so far. “In store, Tango Balconnet is one of the biggest selling DD+ styles. Featuring an underwire and rigid top cup, nothing is as supportive for the larger busted lady,” says Brown.

“To get the fit correct and benefit from the support and comfort, a professional bra specialist will be able to guide the customer to the correct size. For this reason, Tango is a popular style for both the customer and the fitter. Another popular style in store is Envy Full Cup. This style is a four-section full cup bra with a laminated bottom cup, side sling and stretch lace top cup available up to a K.” “Online, Tango is also very popular, and for repeat customers they repurchase this favourite style in the newest colours. “We also find that customers look forward to seeing the new colours in our Panache sports bra each season.” For Elomi, the best-selling style of the last six months has been Matilda, a plunge bra featuring beaded lace and an opulent silver lining. For Freya, the Freya Fancies plunge and longline bras have sold consistently well

The Envy bra in cobalt blue by Panache

Elomi’s Bijou Flirt bra features on-trend strapping

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LINGERIEINSIGHT August 2017 www.lingerieinsight.co.uk

FULLER BUST LINGERIE

across both stores and online, and for Fantasie, the Alicia side-support bra featuring a cascading carnations print and bow detailing has been a best-seller. Meanwhile at Triumph, the classic Amourette range continues to build loyal customers. “Once they have experienced the fit and comfort of Amourette, they come back every season,” says Thomas. “Our Magic Wire Bra has also been successful in largercup sizes by offering non-wired comfort without compromising support.” The best-selling fuller-bust bras for Charnos have been Rosalind, featuring matt/shine stretch lace with an inbuilt cotton sling, and Sienna, a four-piece bra crafted with an embroidered top cup. For Lepel, the Fiore padded plunge bra developed with floral lace and contrasting embroidery continues to do well, and for Lepel London, the Tamara Velvet balcony bra, featuring satin cups, mesh detailing, overbust strapping and lace trims, has attracted a younger customer. The Aura bra has been by far the biggest seller at MORE by Bluebella. This features wide adjustable straps, caged back detailing, innovative metalwork and moulded cups. “It is a perennial favourite, but we are very excited about the new pieces we have created for SS18,” says Bendell. Colour-wise, the classic core shades of black, white and nude remain best-sellers for most fuller-bust brands. But, cobalt blue, blush pink, coral and pastel green are also performing well.

Meeting consumer demands We also asked suppliers to reveal their end-customers’ biggest demands over the last year and how they have met their expectations. Panache said that one of the biggest demands has been variety. “Consumers like the styles we have and they want more. They want to be able to get the same fit in a variety of colours, both everyday and trend-inspired,” explains Brown. Going into SS18, Panache will introduce new colours in popular existing styles, such as the Porcelain Élan T-Shirt and Ardour Moulded Sweetheart bra, as well as an extended core colour offering across Panache, Cleo and Panache Sport to keep its customers happy.

PRODUCTS & TRENDS

The Artemis crop bra from Bluebella

At Wacoal Europe, the Freya brand has seen a demand for an increased basics offer. “Customers want style and colour, but still want collections to be wearable. We have also seen a growth in our bralette styles and softer pieces,” says Leca. “The athleisure trend has also allowed us to develop our activewear further and this has grown 17% on last year.” For Fantasie, its core continuity continues to be in demand. Prints have also sold well, as have more premium ranges. LF Intimates, meanwhile, has noticed a demand for more bodies that provide support and control. “With the increasing trend of underwear as outerwear we’ve also seen a lot more requests for strapping detail, racer backs and bodies that can be worn as outerwear for festivals etc,” says Cronin. “In line with this, we have developed our fashion brand Lepel London so that we can

Triumph’s Amourette range continues to sell well

offer increased sizes and lingerie with more harness details.” The most consistent trend that MORE by Bluebella has witnessed in the last year has been the consumer’s focus on value. “We live in uncertain times and there has been a big squeeze on incomes,” says Bendell. “Pricing has always been one of the key factors in Bluebella’s popularity, along with quality, and we have tried very hard to make sure our prices remain competitive despite rising costs,” she continues. “Just as the MORE range has been skilfully designed to give a flattering and supportive fit without compromising on style, we source great quality fabrics to ensure that the finished product represents exceptional quality and value.”

www.lingerieinsight.co.uk August 2017 LINGERIEINSIGHT

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DEBATE

BRA FITTINGS

A woman is fitted for a PrimaDonna bra at Rigby & Peller

,UVJGKNNæVVKPIDTC UVCVKUVKECPWTDCPO[VJ" Industry professionals have raised their doubts over the statistic that 70-85% of women are wearing the wrong bra size. It has made the headlines the world over, but is it factually accurate? And with no go-to international fitting standard, how can we prove it?

T

he reliability of the widely-reported statistic that the majority of women are wearing the wrong bra size has been called into question. Since the mid-1990s, the “statistic” that says 70-85% of women are wearing the wrong bra size has made the headlines

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around the world, but this may be little more than an urban legend, according to Emily Bendell, chief executive of Bluebella and fuller-bust label More by Bluebella. “I have always felt that this statistic has been slightly exaggerated. It makes for a good story, but is it really true?,” she said. “I think it is a confusing stat, too – not all stores size in the same way, so a woman

LINGERIEINSIGHT August 2017 www.lingerieinsight.co.uk

can buy two bras of different sizes from rival stores which both fit her. So the stats may say that one of those bra sizes is the wrong size for her, but she knows they both fit. How does that experience fit into the statistics?” This is not the first time that doubt has been raised over the ill-fitting bra statistic.

BRA FITTINGS

In 2015, Ali Cudby, a bra fit expert and founder of Fab Foundations, an online bra fit training and certification programme based in the US, said the statistic was originally pulled from some anecdotal quotes in Women’s Wear Daily Interviews in 1995. One quote said: “Foundations makers like to claim that 8 out of 10 women are not wearing the right size bra and retail sales help is frequently blamed for this.” (WWD “Dial F for Fit” by Karyn Monget, October 30, 1995) “That’s right, the hallowed number is not based on any survey or study,” said Cudby. “By the late 2000s it was further entrenched in the minds of consumers with more information from a single boutique’s internal research,” she continued. “My guess is that the more people heard the statistic, the more they used it.” Despite a high level of scepticism over the ill-fitting bra statistic, independent retail consultant Amanda Brasher believes there is some truth behind it, and points towards a study that backs it up. “It is not an urban myth,” she says. “Research has been carried out both in the UK and in Australia. For example, in 2010 a breast health research group at the University of Wollongong published a study on optimising breast support through correct bra fit. “One hundred and four women were assessed and 85% of participants in the study were found to be wearing the wrong size.” Regardless of this result, however, Brasher strongly believes that women need to focus on fit, and not size, when shopping for a bra. “Just in the same way that we buy jeans and may be a size 27 in one brand and a size 29 in another, bra sizes vary significantly from brand to brand. I have even known one model of sports bra to vary in size from black to white. This is likely to be due to the dying process,” she explains. “You also have to take into account that there is no industry standard or definitive agreement on best fit criteria across retailers. Some stores are still wedded to measuring around the chest with a tape measure to determine underband size, despite the fact that this tends to lead to inaccuracies.” Author and breast expert Elisabeth Dale agrees. “One hundred percent of bra brands

DEBATE

Experts believe retailers should throw away the tape measure when fitting bras

have different fit standards, not to mention use different methods to calculate bra size. Plus each bra style fits differently (compared a contour cup bra versus a cutand-sewn bra),” she says. “Women need to wear what fits them and focus less on arbitrary numbers and letters. That’s why I advocate knowing your Bra Zone (styles that fit you—including equivalent cup and band sister sizes).” A UK study carried out by the University of Portsmouth in 2011 also suggests that women shopping for new bras should throw away the tape measure and focus on how the garment fits. Sports scientists at the university measured 45 women using both the traditional method of bra fitting, using a tape-measure, and the best-fit approach, which is based on a set of criteria that considers the under-band, the cup, the underwire, the straps and the front-band. They found that compared with the bestfit approach, the traditional method overestimated the band size in 76% of women and underestimated the cup size in 84%. What’s more, the researchers believe that the traditional approach to fitting may be contributing to the estimated 85% of women in the UK wearing the wrong sized bra. So the ill-fitting bra statistic may not be an urban myth after all, but as more consumers are educated on the importance of shopping for the correct-fitting bra and not the correct-size bra, it may begin to show signs of improving.

Boux Avenue is one retailer that uses the tape-measure method to fit customers. However, it also stresses the importance of taking into account other factors that affect their bra size; the style of bra, the fabric, shape of the bust and their own chosen preference. “We advice customers to get fitted in any bra that they purchase. Their size may vary slightly from store to store, but as long as the style they have selected fits them correctly, they will see real benefits,” says buying director Debby Duckett. Ali Cudby agrees, adding: “Measuring is just a starting point, and size differs from brand to brand. (And even within a brand, from bra to bra.) Plus, bras fit different bodies differently. People ask me about my favourite brand all the time. It’s irrelevant. You have to find the brand – and the bra – that fits each unique body. “But, and this is the tricky part, ultimately, women have to buy a size, especially online. Bricks and mortar retailers have a huge advantage because they can know their inventory and make the process much easier for customers. When retailers are successful in showing customers their value (and too many aren’t) they have the most loyal and profitable customers.”

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NUMBERS GAME

ANALYSIS

Numbers game Here are 10 things from the intimate apparel industry that we have learned this month

£50M

18% The SS18 edition of Mode City lingerie & swimwear saw an 18% increase in top-quality vistors compared to last year. Host nation France remains well in the lead of visiting countries with 28% of total guests attending the show. But while there was an overall rise, visitors from Switzerland fell by two percentage points and Italy slipped by one.

Retailers are being urged to start capacity testing their websites now, in preparation for Black Friday and Cyber Monday in November. Research from Qubit, which analysed more than 50 million visits from 120 UK and US retailers, found that compared to a normal Friday, Black Friday traffic was up 220%, while Cyber Monday saw an increase of 155%. With the surge in website traffic figures seen during the peak trading period, it is critical to ensure websites are performing to the highest standard to capitalise on site visitors, according to specialist eCommerce systems integrator, Tryzens.

Most new design graduates based in the UK plan to avoid working and living in London, where traditionally the majority of creative jobs have been harboured, according to a new survey. The survey, conducted on new graduates exhibiting at New Designers in London last month, revealed significant concerns about the cost of living in London, paired with an uncertainly over the impact of Brexit on the creative industries. Asked about where they intend to work post-graduation, of the 27.5% who intend to set up in London, 79% cited “more exciting creative opportunities” as the reason.

27.5%

40% Ecommerce giant Amazon’s presence in the lingerie market appears to be growing stronger by the day after a new report identified intimate apparel as one of its top-selling product categories. Men’s and women’s underwear accounted for 40% of Amazon’s top-selling apparel categories last year, with a total of $415m (£317m) in sales, according to the report by retail consulting firm One Click Retail. Women’s intimates was the second largest category, behind men’s bottoms, with sales totalling $125m (£95m).

£2.7m

An award-winning post-surgery lingerie and swimwear specialist based in Glasgow has rejected a EUR3.2 million (£2.7 million) takeover offer. Vanilla Blush founder and CEO, Nicola Dames, has confirmed that she and her husband Simon have rejected “life-changing sums of money”, which would have meant that “we could live the rest of our lives on the beach”. She said that when it came to making the final decision, she realised that her brand’s mission and “hard core” financial projections meant too much to simply “grab the cash and run”. www.lingerieinsight.co.uk August 2017 LINGERIEINSIGHT

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ANALYSIS

NUMBERS GAME

1,800 A post-surgery lingerie specialist based in Ireland has been named a laureate for Europe in the Cartier Women’s Initiative Awards. Ciara Donlon, the founder of Theya Healthcare, fought off competition from more than 1,800 applicants to win the prestigious prize, which includes a $100,000 (£77,000) grant. Six laureates, one from six continents, are honoured annually for the creativity, financial sustainability and social impact of their start-up businesses.

0.5%

Marks and Spencer chief executive Steve Rowe highlighted signs of progress in its underpressure clothing division last month, reporting a significantly smaller drop in sales in its first quarter. The Clothing & Home department, which includes lingerie, witnessed a 0.5% decline in sales in the three months to 1 July. This compares with a 5.9% fall posted in the previous quarter.

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British multinational retailer Tesco has revealed plans to overhaul garment line, F&F, in order to eliminate harmful chemicals. Tesco is now committed to the Greenpeace Detox-Campaign to become toxicsfree. The campaign, which launched in 2011, is supported by 80 international brands and now represents 15% of the worldwide textile production. UK-based Tesco joins a group of five German-based international retailers including Aldi and Lidl that signed the Detox-Commitment two years ago.

3,978ft2 12% Fuller-bust women of Cardiff will now be able to visit Bravissimo in the city’s main shopping complex after the lingerie, swimwear and nightwear retailer moved in. The new 3,978ft 2 store, located in St David’s shopping centre, on the upper level of the Grand Arcade, replaces Bravissimo’s smaller branch at Queens Arcade shopping centre.

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LINGERIEINSIGHT August 2017 www.lingerieinsight.co.uk

Debenhams is enjoying a strong growth in swimwear and beachwear sales this season, Lingerie Insight has learned. The retailer said strong designs, high quality fabrications and a wide choice of products have driven the rise in sales, with own-brand products performing particularly well. J by Jasper Conran has witnessed a 61% sales lift on the year, while sales at Matthew Williamson have grown 24% in the same period. Meanwhile, Debenhams’ Beach Collection, its best-selling beachwear brand, has witnessed a 12% growth in sales on the year.

NATURANA

ADVERTORIAL

THE ONLY WAY IS UP After restructuring its sales team and adding new product categories in the last 12 months, Naturana UK’s sales and marketing director Tom Kavanagh discusses the group’s financial performance and its strengthening relationships with key retail partners

Y

ou recently restructured your business with a new sales team. How’s that going?

The new structure got off the blocks very quickly, with the new account managers making early contact with buyers and, more importantly, with new customers. Tanya Bulloch has already grown her business within her territory and made great progress with some new key accounts. Chelsea Vickers has developed new partnerships with current and new customers and is also tracking up versus last year. Richard Potter has further developed his partnerships and already opened some great new accounts for the business and Stephen Duncan in Ireland has further developed his business, with all four territories tracking up versus the same period last year.

How has the Naturana group performed financially over the last financial year? For the first half of the year, business is up 11% in most categories versus last year. Our margins are also looking good and the new discount structure that will come into force from January will incentivise our customers to grow their business with us.

What are the key drivers behind this? A new sales team who have the autonomy to make the right decisions for their accounts and our business. We’re also fully focused on core Naturana, our fashionable Cybele and new Blue Label collections and further growth opportunities with our new swimwear collection, which many retailers have said is one of the best collections that they have seen for 2018.

You recently launched a new brand, Blue Label. What was your inspiration behind this launch? The business in Germany has done some

fantastic work in developing this new concept collection using quality fabrics and designs with some really nice additional extras. The range offers a real opportunity for our retail partners to move up a gear by offering additional Naturana quality in some of the new designs.

How else have you grown the business in the UK? It’s taken nearly five years to move things much further forward than before and the relocation [to new offices in Sutton Coldfield] did set us back a little last year. However, the most important thing has been the investment and the support that the UK has received from our German head office. We have also made positive changes at senior level and our new CEO Andreas Hoschele, who joined us last March, is beginning to have a real influence on our European business. His support for the UK has really benefitted us with our sales drive.

What are your plans for Cybele and Naturana this year? Cybele is key focus for us, so there is an unbelievable amount of work to do and with the development of much bigger cup sizes and a NOS programme in place for 2018, we believe that we can continue to attract a much younger consumer to this collection. Naturana will also offer new and bigger cups in some of the new styles and we have increased our maternity offering, which has been purposely developed for some of our new retail partners.

Where do you see the group heading in the next 12 months? I only see us going in one direction and that’s towards a greater drive in sales and improved revenue. Solid partnerships with our retailers are also important to us and we are all working hard at this. My vision is to maintain our core business and to grow sales with our new product concepts. Short-term fixes are not want we want.

www.lingerieinsight.co.uk August 2017 LINGERIEINSIGHT

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FRONT

ANALYSIS

JULIANNE MOORE IS THE NEW FACE

OF FLORALE BY TRIUMPH The first global campaign from Florale by Triumph celebrates female confidence and timeless style

T

riumph has unveiled award-winning actress

Julianne Moore as the face of its new premium brand, Florale by Triumph, which debuts in stores this AW17. Shot by fashion photographer Rankin, the first global campaign from Florale by Triumph draws on the story of the modern woman, celebrating female confidence and timeless style. The news follows the announcement that Liv Tyler is fronting a campaign for Triumph Essence. Commenting on the announcement, Julianne Moore said: “Florale by Triumph represents everything I hope for in my style – it is elegant, contemporary, and it makes me feel beautiful. The collection is stunning and it’s a pleasure to be a part of the Triumph family.” Suzanne McKenna, global head of brand at Triumph, added: “After much anticipation, we are proud to introduce Julianne Moore as the face of Florale by Triumph. Julianne is the epitome of a truly sophisticated and stylish modern woman, which makes her the perfect fit for our new collection.” Inspired by feminine florals, Florale by Triumph is made up of four lines, each offering a range of fits and styles, from an innovative 4-section underwired bra and a minimiser to a bodysuit and shaping briefs. Triumph global head of design Sian Thomas said: “We have crafted a special range of luxurious and beautiful pieces to make everyday wear a glamourous experience. The floral designs are inspired by the changing season and the beautiful lace and embroidery adds a wonderful texture to the collection. Lace, embroidery and fine detailing such as a

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signature Peony motif, premium rose gold adjusters and smoothing back and underarm edges for superior comfort are at the heart of Florale. “This is underpinned with Triumph’s tailoring expertise, which we have drawn upon to create fits and styles that flatter our more mature and sophisticated consumer.” The four lines are Peony, Dalia, Iris and Wild Rose:

Peony Florale is decorated with lavish Peony stretch lace combined with quality tulle. The line includes a 4-sectioned underwired bra featuring all-over lace, a padded spacer bra and a decorative body with shaping and tummy control. Iris Florale is inspired by the delicate Iris bud. This romantic, multi-coloured,

LINGERIEINSIGHT August 2017 www.lingerieinsight.co.uk

stretch embroidered series includes a 4-section cup underwired bra and a spacer cup bra featuring jacquard embellishment and a smooth back for extra comfort.

Wild Rose offers premium shapewear that combines support and control with rich embroidery inspired by the wild rose. This collection is made up of a moulded embroidered minimiser, a 4-section cup body and a tummy control maxi panty.

Dahlia Florale features a 4-section cup bra enriched with mock guipure on a transparent, skin tone fabric and highly decorated straps. This can be teamed with a maxi panty or brief. Retailing at an average price of £50, Florale by Triumph will land in stores in September.

ANALYSIS

FRONT

EXCLUSIVE: New creative director at

Chantelle presents brand repositioning Renaud Cambuzat has transformed the brand’s imagery and revitalised its graphic designs and tone of voice for SS18

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roup Chantelle presented the results of a major brand repositioning for its Chantelle Paris label at Mode City last month.

Chantelle has transformed its photography style for SS18

After appointing a new creative director six months ago, the brand’s imagery has been transformed, and its graphic designs and tone of voice revitalised. The man responsible is Renaud Cambuzat, who joined the company as group creative and imagery director after working as a fashion photographer for over four years. Prior to this, he worked in the cinematography industry on behalf of Wild Side Films, a French film production company for which he was responsible for marketing. Speaking to Lingerie Insight at the Chantelle Paris stand at Mode City, Cambuzat said: “We are working on three different levels in terms of brand evolution. The first one is a new photography style, the second one is new graphic designs – so new logos, new fonts, new colours – and the third one is the tone of voice.

Creative director Renaud Cambuzat

“We are taking a ‘pull’ rather than ‘push’ approach, so it’s all about trying to be less commercial, more authentic and a bit less marketing driven, and trying to bring a lot of creativity, passion and conviction in everything we do.” The aim of the repositioning is to reconnect Chantelle with the global consumer. “As wholesalers, we used to be really focused on making sure that our business

partners would be really satisfied with the images, but this has the potential to disconnect us from the end consumer. So now we are trying to speak to the consumer first, while also making sure that our clients are excited about the direction we are taking,” Cambuzat explained. “We are trying to think more like retailers and making sure that the imagery is inspiring to the consumer.” The new creative director is also working to reposition Group Chantelle’s other lingerie labels, including Passionata, in terms of imagery and communications.

www.lingerieinsight.co.uk August 2017 LINGERIEINSIGHT

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PRODUCTS & TRENDS

INDX PREVIEW

INDX INTIMATE APPAREL PREVIEW We pick out the lingerie, swimwear, nightwear and hosiery highlights of the seasonal trade show, which takes place in Solihull on August 6-8

Cyberjammies

About: A collection of nightwear inspired by the city of London runs across Cyberjammies’ women’s, men’s and children’s ranges this season. Iconic landmarks and recognisable features of London life translate into a red, white, blue and black print. For a little fun and exotic flavour, Cyberjammies has also included a flamingo print in its Grace collection (pictured) and a vibrant cactus print in its Celia range. Summer fabrics include modal, lyocell and cotton. RRP: £17 - £40 Sales contact: Mark Tweed, [email protected]

Gossard

Elomi

About: SS18 welcomes a brand refresh for Elomi, delivering a vibrant and striking collection of styles designed for curves. New lines unveil subtle shades of sheer, seductive strap detailing, bold and vibrant prints and striking shades of pink, purple and red. A highlight from the range is Sachi, a simple yet striking collection featuring sheer and solid panelling and strappy detailing. The collection features a plunge bra, a brief and full brief. RRP: £20 - £44 Sales contact: Evelyne Piegay, +33 6 7339 0057

About: Gossard has unveiled an eclectic collection of lingerie for SS18, featuring both seductive and sporty pieces. The new collection mixes summer berry hues with textured floral embroidery, a floral print and soft comfort shapes that embrace the athleisure trend. RRP: Bras from £29 - £50 Sales contact: Clarisse Parkes, [email protected]

Freya

About: Freya presents a new lingerie collection and reveals a brand refresh for SS18. The collection is designed to fit into everyday life, offering a choice of soft casual to bring light to the working week, while vibrant colours, bold prints and fun lace styles fit into the weekend wardrobe. The new season welcomes Daisy Lace, featuring geometric lace in two colourways: noir and pink and blush with contrasting grey. This collection is offered in a balcony bra and bralette complete with brief, short and thong. RRPs: £11 - £44 Sales contact: Evelyne Piegay, +33 6 7339 0057

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LINGERIEINSIGHT August 2017 www.lingerieinsight.co.uk

Wacoal

About: Wacoal introduces Irresistible for SS18, a luxury collection featuring a contemporary design with all-over embroidery. Irresistible has launched in black, decorated in delicate Leavers two-tone lace, a Chantilly lace centre, a scallop edge in a contrasting colourway and a guipure rosebud motif. The collection offers a bralette (S-XL), a balcony bra (B-F), a plunge (A-DD) with matching brief, short and tanga (S-XL). RRP: £14 - £120 Sales contact: Evelyne Piegay, +33 6 7339 0057

INDX PREVIEW

A Gift From The Gods

PRODUCTS & TRENDS

Eva

About: Following the success of its bestselling satin pyjama sets, this British brand is introducing this style in pale pink, together with satin cami sets and satin kimonos for SS18. To complement the range and to keep the consumer cool next summer, new printed chemises, burnout sleep dresses, printed bralette and brief sets and relaxed slub cotton printed pyjamas will also be available. The collection is presented in four distinct but complementary design stories – A Gift From The Gods, Calligraphy & Hearts, Dream Odyssey and Get Your Goddess On in pretty pinks, fresh aqua, rich blues and goddess white. RRP: £10 - £35 Sales contact: [email protected]

About: Eva, the luxury brand from Naturana, presents a collection of statement lingerie and loungewear pieces for SS18, combining finest fabrics and finishes. The Bohemian lace series features graphic lace combined with cotton in a choice of black or white. The range offers a high-apex underwired bra, padded bandeau wired bra, thong and briefs. Meanwhile, Bohemian Flower is inspired by a French Spring garden, featuring a print that combines peach tones against a champagne background with a contrasting colour across the trim. A padded wired bra, soft cup bra, bikini briefs and panty are available in this range. RRP: TBC Sales contact: Tom Kavanagh, [email protected]

Blue Label

LOU

About: French heritage label LOU showcases expert craftmanship with a new sensual collection featuring elaborate embroidery in seasonal colours of Pacific blue, papaya and intense black. Highlights include New Look, made from gossamer embroidery in fresh, faded colours, and Architecture (pictured), which plays with modernity and geometric shapes. This unique pattern is calendered onto rigid tulle to create a smooth finish. RRP: TBC Sales contact: [email protected]

About: Naturana has launched a new lingerie label to mark its 100th anniversary. Blue Label has been created for the mid-range market and consists of a lace spacer bra, a classic moulded style available with and without wires, and a lace series in champagne and spring red. Highlights include Valencia, an all-over lace style available in a threesection cup and a full cup lined with semitransparent mesh. RRP: £30 - £40 Sales contact: Tom Kavanagh, [email protected]

Promise Bridal

About: Spanish lingerie brand Promise will make its INDX debut with a bridal range crafted using lace and satin. The range offers a choice of bras, briefs, bustiers and feminine nightwear designed for the wedding night. All styles are presented in gift boxes. Patricia Eve distributes Promise in the UK market. RRP: TBC Sales contact: Chris Eve, [email protected]

Curvy Kate

About: Curvy Kate returns to INDX with its most feminine colour palette yet. Head designer Charlotte Davies said she was inspired by the way gradients of colour being used on the catwalk to create a feminine, whimsical look. Another strong influence came from botanicals. RRP: TBC Sales contact: Lynne Daykin, [email protected] www.lingerieinsight.co.uk August 2017 LINGERIEINSIGHT

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PRODUCTS & TRENDS

INDX PREVIEW

Lepel London

About: Lepel London is growing to become louder, bolder and more directional. Harness looks from previous seasons still incorporate strapping details, but move forward with a more minimalist design as seen in Adele and Tia lines. Styles are soft and lightweight, yet supportive and designed to be worn every day. RRP: £6 - £38 Sales contact: Peter Cronin, [email protected]

Lepel

Magic BodyFashion

About: Lepel's aim was to make its customers feel confident in their everyday underwear when creating its SS18 collection. Striking colours, floral prints and delicate details feature across a combination of new shapes and contemporary classics. Fiore, the bestselling lace collection, sets the tone for the season in cobalt blue and a fresh aqua. RRP: £6 - £38 Sales contact: Peter Cronin, [email protected]

About: Dutch shapewear and lingerie solutions brand Magic BodyFashion will introduce the new Va Va Voom backless bra to buyers this season. The drawstring front closure is designed to enhance push-up effect. Also new to the brand is the Dream collection, a line of three bras and bralettes in grey, rose, ivory and black. RRP: £20 - £26 Sales contact: Philippa Bradley Agencies, 020 7499 4598

Panache

About: For SS18, Panache draws inspiration from the global traveller, providing escapism and excitement through vivid colours, lavish tropical brights and elements of dare-to-bare detailing. The range embodies an eclectic, colourful theme with pink hues featured across the line with touches of muted blue tones, and sunshine-ready statement animal prints that create a luxuriously laid back style. RRP: £11 - £56 Sales contact: Oriane Druesne, 0114 2418 888

Sculptresse

About: Fuller-figure brand Sculptresse, by Panache, will return to INDX with a mix of elegant prints, feminine lace and cut-away detailing. The Sculptresse iconic Chi Chi bra drops in a muted floral print on an ivory background for pared-back elegance, while Candi features a delicate floral print on a midnight blue background for an edgy look. New for this season is Dionne, a full-cup bra featuring a monochrome geometric print for a trend-led look, and Estel, featuring cut-away detailing on a black and white pattern design for a luxe feel. Also new to the Sculptresse range is the Siren Plunge and structured Dana strapless styles in vintage and linen nude colourways. RRP: £11 - £56 Sales contact: Oriane Druesne, 0114 2418 888

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Panache Sport

About: Panache Sport has added flashes of vivid colours and pops of pattern inspired by the early 90’s to its workout collection for SS18. This season’s Painterly print features purple, fuchsia and black. The collection also marries a grey and mango colourway, accented with black piping. RRP: £11 - £56 Sales contact: Oriane Druesne, 0114 2418 888

INDX PREVIEW

PRODUCTS & TRENDS

Taubert

About: The new Beach Please collection from Taubert is young, trendy and stylish. Lines feature deliberate inconsistencies and ironic clashes, visibly translated into prints, colours, materials and patterns. This brand will be presented by UK Fashion Agents at INDX. RRP: £40 - £120 Sales contact: Irene Douglas, [email protected]

Eva Swimwear

About: Eva, the luxury brand from Naturana, will present a range of sensual and glamorous swimwear this season. Block-colour one-pieces in black, red, midnight blue and deep green sit alongside patterned swimwear styles. Selected styles also offer a matching sarong, vest top, sundresses and trouser accessories. RRP: TBC Sales contact: Tom Kavanagh, [email protected]

Fantasie Swimwear

About: Fantasie transports the wearer to Ko Phi Phi for SS18, with a lively floral Hawaiianinspired collection in orange, pink and tallow tones captivated on a black base. This collection is offered in a selection of styles including a full-cup bikini (D-J), a balcony bikini (D-G), a tankini (D-H) a twisted front suit (DGG), complete with matching mid ride briefs (XS-XL), classic scarf tie brief (XS-XL) and classic fold brief (XS-XXL). RRP: £26 - £85 Sales contact: Evelyne Piegay, +33 6 7339 0057

Freya Swimwear

About: This season, Freya offers a fun and vibrant collection that is bursting with colour. These bold and vibrant collections are offered in a selection of patterns in tribal twists, geo styling, exotic jungle and floral prints, with handcrafted detail and eye catching embroidery and textures used throughout. Freya introduces Hot in Havana for SS18. This swim collection features a blend of exotic and animal prints in the form of a twisted bandeau bikini top, a low plunge halter, matching co-ordinates and a bandeau halter dress. RRP: £20 - £58 Sales contact: Evelyne Piegay, +33 6 7339 0057

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PRODUCTS & TRENDS

INDX PREVIEW

Lepel Swim

About: Lepel Swimwear stands for great fit, style and sophistication this season. The brand has revisited traditional swimwear silhouettes and paired them back for a contemporary feel. RRP: £14 - £45 Sales contact: Peter Cronin, [email protected]

Miraclesuit Swimwear

About: US shaping swimwear brand Miraclesuit will showcase bursts of colour that capture an exotic bazaar alongside sheer inserts to create a flattering silhouette at INDX Intimate Apparel this season. Expect rich assortment of blues reminiscent of the deepest oceans and the clearest blue skies. The new collection is designed to be as functional as it is aesthetic, with Xtra Life Lycra fibre combined with shaping fabric Miratex. Patricia Eve distributes Miraclesuit in the UK. RRP: £100 - £130 Sales contact: Chris Eve of Patricia Eve, [email protected]

Promise Swimwear

About: For SS18, Spanish brand Promise draws inspiration from tropical destinations and a mix of cultures. The city of Mumbai influences the collection with its rich, saturated colours and paisley designs, while Crete inspires a palette of turquoise, deep blue and red found in the Greek island’s coastal waters and tiled roofs. Bright colours and prints derived from Honolulu, Sardinia and Polinesia also feature across the range, while earthier tones are inspired by the forests of Caribbean island, Martinique. Finally, the legendary Coachella festival inspires boho elements like crochet rosettes and hemstitch bikinis. RRP: £50 - £70 approx Sales contact: Chris Eve of Patricia Eve, [email protected]

Vacanze Italiane

Profile by Gottex

About: The focus of this collection is to combine the latest trends with excellent fit and functionality. The brand uses Sensitive Lycra fabric, which has SPF protection and is designed to smooth and sculpt the body. Profile’s foundation is based on a varied selection of separates in both print and coordinating solids, with sizes ranging from 8 to 24, and including D and E cup offerings. One of the newest print trends is the mineral geode, showcased in Quartzite. This print features organic colours ranging from cool aqua to deep lapis and amethyst. Dramatic silhouettes include a highneck choker and strappy details. RRP: £85 - £99 Sales contact: Richard Barnes, 01773 534177

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About: This season, Vacanze Italiane will introduce a range of bikinis, one-pieces and beachwear under the sub-brand name of Iconique by Vacanze and the Gold Label line, which features seductive styles in sophisticated fabrics. New for the SS18 season is a new soft microfiber fabric, which comes with a matt or silky finish. RRP: £50 - £200 approx Sales contact: Chris Eve of Patricia Eve, [email protected]

INDX PREVIEW

Naturana Swim

About: Naturana said it will introduce its boldest swimwear collection yet for 2018. Animal prints sit side by side with floral patterns, while solid colour styles are adorned with interwoven bands. The collection offers young fashionable styles, sporty sets, directional detailing and classic designs. Shapes vary from dainty triangle and bandeau bikinis to wired styles – some up to E cup. Swimsuits feature racer backs, classic bandeau cuts, halter-necks. Naturana Swim also offers control-wear designs to appeal to all age groups. RRP: TBC Sales contact: Tom Kavanagh, [email protected]

Curvy Kate

About: Award-winning designer Charlotte Davies has taken inspiration from Japanese pottery to create a collection that combines bold prints and a rich colour palette. Highlights include the Maya collection (pictured), which showcases a red floral print with dark edging. It also features cut-out ladder-effect details. RRP: TBC Sales contact: Lynne Daykin [email protected]

Chantelle Beachwear

Miraclesuit Swim Performance Gottex

About: Gottex has introduced a new subcategory, Gottex Couture, a continuation of the successful 60th anniversary Jewel Box collection, which offers premium swimwear. All styles within the collection feature unique fabrics and extravagant accessories and embroideries, designed to create a glamorous look. Asymmetric necklines, strap details, glitter printing and silver lamination also feature. Gottex will also present its GTX, Collection and Contour categories at the show. RRP: £119 - £250 Sales contact: Richard Barnes/Andrew Barnes, 01773 534177

PRODUCTS & TRENDS

About: A bohemian look washes over the new SS18 beachwear from Chantelle. The 1970s have inspired themes that reflect three moments in a typical island day; Hippie Market, Blue Retreat, Sunset Party. Hippie Market is inspired by market stalls piled high with fruits, vegetables and spices, with mint, papaya and coffee making up the colour palette. Blue Retreat combines calming blues with a hot pink twist. Inspired by mosaic, with indigo tie-dyes and stylish flowers, prints are fun and fresh. Sunset Party is a glamorous range in black, featuring two-tone graphics and chic stripes. RRP: TBC Sales contact: Mary Cameron, 01483 400 881

About: Miraclesuit Swimwear will launch a new athleisure category for 2018. The firm will introduce Miracle Swim Performance (MSP), a collection of beachwear designed for water sports. The debut range from MSP includes sporty swimsuits, paddle pants and tank tops made using ‘Miraslim’ technology, which is designed to shape the wearer without confinement. RRP: TBC Sales contact: Chris Eve of Patricia Eve, [email protected]

Profile Sport

About: Profile Sport, a new athleisure swimwear label in the Gottex house of brands, will return to INDX for a second year. The line explores the synergy between the activewear and fashion swimwear worlds, creating a product suitable for the feminine and active woman. The brand offers supportive, functional and fashionable sporty pieces, such as UV protective rash guards, leggings, crop tops, sporty tankinis and sexy scuba styles/rash-suits. All styles are made using Sensitive Fabrics by Eurojersey. RRP: £85 - £99 Sales contact: Richard Barnes/Andrew Barnes, 01773 534177 www.lingerieinsight.co.uk August 2017 LINGERIEINSIGHT

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PRODUCTS & TRENDS

INDX PREVIEW

Panache Swim

Nicola Jane swimwear

About: Panache Swim, the swimwear line by size D plus specialist Panache, will showcase statement Middle Eastern prints, vibrant tropical brights and muted purple hues at INDX this season. The latest collection is all about framing the body with clean and classic styling paired with fresh prints and luxe detailing. New for this season is the stand-out Ceylon bikini, featuring a bandeau shape with a luxe Guipure lace motif added against a sheer high neck. RRP: £11 - £56 Sales contact: Oriane Druesne, 0114 2418 888

About: Post-surgery specialist Nicola Jane took inspiration from exotic holiday destinations to develop a versatile collection of swimwear featuring bright and bold designs. Tribal, blue ripple, floral surf and carnivalinspired feathering are just some of the moodenhancing, playful prints which are prominent throughout the SS18 range. Nicola Jane has also brought forward and merged its signature best-selling styles with the anticipated trend direction for 2018. RRP: £29.00 - £48.00 Sales contact: Melissa Reeve, [email protected]

Banana Moon

About: US brand Banana Moon will showcase a range of summer brights paired with warm hues, tropical prints and geometric patterns. Inspirations are drawn from the 1970s, with its self-confident, bohemian style, as well as the Amazon rainforest and Cabana life. Monochrome also takes centre stage this season, combining geometric patterns with palms and flowers in black and white. Banana Moon will also present a limited edition range of swimwear that incorporates crochet stitches, patchwork and embroidery, as well as a couture collection and teen range. RRP: £60 - £85 Sales contact: Irene Douglas, 07962126563

David Swimwear

About: The SS18 collection from Italian brand David Swimwear is all about vivid colours and exuberant prints. The Blue Reef group features an elegant white coral motif on a bright blue background, the Python Sauvage group offers a striking kaleidoscopic print on a turquoise background and, for the more romantic, the Indonesian group print combines delicate roses with subtle leopard prints. Also this season, Iconique by David beachwear will be incorporated into the collection for the first time. RRP: £60 - £100 approx Sales contact: Chris Eve of Patricia Eve, [email protected]

Miradonna

About: Following a strong reception in its first season, Miradonna, a shaping swimwear brand developed by Miraclesuit and Italian swimwear group AFS, will return to the INDX show with MiraBasic, a group of colourful one-piece suits. Meanwhile, the MiraChic range offers six styles in four new bright colours. Also look out for 90s nautical stripes, a white leopard print and floral designs. RRP: £45 - £135 Sales contact: Chris Eve of Patricia Eve, [email protected]

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West Seventy Nine

About: This luxury brand is renowned for its glamorous swimwear and resortwear with a bohemian twist. The SS18 range is inspired by the islands surrounding Ibiza, focusing on the many facets of island life. Prints and colours draw influence from the sea nymphs rumoured to live on Es Vedra to the sunsets of Formentera. RRP: £35 - £105 Sales contact: Lucy Osborne or Nicky Clayton, 02074994598

INDX PREVIEW

Ultimo

PRODUCTS & TRENDS

Eberjey

About: Tokens of travel and adventure inspired by an increasingly nomadic lifestyle combine to create a tranquil, yet diverse, collection infused with cross-cultural influences. Traditional designs and handcrafted patterns from ancient lands are mixed with modern-day motifs to create an eclectic collection with a contemporary twist. RRP: TBC Sales contact: Rachel Booth, [email protected]

About: This season sees Miami-based lifestyle brand Eberjey team up with fashion designer Rebecca Taylor for the second time. Together, they have created a collection that focuses on silks and boho styling. Eberjey is renowned for its trend-setting prints, ultrasoft fabrics and delicate laces. RRP: £20 - £190 Sales contact: Lucy Osborne or Nicky Clayton, 02074994598

Fantasie

Variance

About: The SS18 collection from Variance draws inspiration from ready-to-wear fashion, with a trendier, more vibrant look. Key features include elaborate back work, transparency, wrap-front coverage and vibrant colours. RRP: TBC Sales contact: [email protected]

About: New collections from Fantasie sit under two themes for SS18. While some styles are inspired by modern purity, showcasing graphic and geometric trends offering clean, structured and refined silhouettes in soft, muted tones, others are more contemporary, offering handcrafted embroidery and decorative lace in jewel tones. A stand-out style from the collection is Fusion, featuring a soft-handle stripe jacquard fabric with a gold tab trim. The line is available in a side support bra (D-H), an average coverage bra (D-GG) and matching briefs (XS-XXL). RRP: £15 - £60 Sales contact: Evelyne Piegay, 0057 7339 6 33+

Sloggi

About: After a successful launch in Asia, sloggi will bring its ZERO Feel collection to the UK for SS18. ZERO Feel, which includes a bralette, bralette, bra-top, hipster briefs and Brazilian briefs, was crafted using a Japanese 40-gauge fabric – patented until 2020. This 360° stretch fabric is designed to adjust to the shape of the wearer, creating a feeling akin to a second skin. Another exciting launch for the brand this year is S by Sloggi, a premium bodywear sub-label. The new range, designed to offer comfort without compromising on style includes four lines. See page 5 for more details. RRP: £12.50 - £38 Sales contact: Niki Thompson, [email protected]

Laurence Tavernier

About: Parisian brand Laurence Tavernier combines simple, practical and modern shapes with high quality fabrics; feather light cottons, modal jersey featuring lace trims and sumptuous cashmere. The SS18 collection is inspired by a longing for new horizons. Split into three atmospheres – Dune, Medina and Oasis – soft florals and powdered tones are key. RRP: £60 - £180 Sales contact: Lucy Osborne or Nicky Clayton, 02074994598

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PRODUCTS & TRENDS

INDX PREVIEW

Ringella

Blackspade

About: : German nightwear brand Ringella returns to INDX with its new cashmere-touch Never Out of Stock collection, Solo Per Me. The collection is made from a fabric blended with 75% viscose, which make it easy to clean and easy to wear. The elastane content also ensures that the garments retain their shape for a long time. RRP: £25 - £59 Sales contact: Irene Douglas, [email protected]

About: UK distributor will present classic underwear lines from Turkish underwear brand Blackspade at INDX this season. Blackspade, renowned for providing comfortable basics for everyday wear, develops its products using high quality cotton and modal fabrics and heat sealed labels. RRP: TBC Sales contact: Chris Eve at Patricia Eve, 01423 885374

Hanro

About: Swiss brand Hanro has taken in inspiration from the laid-back town of Biarritz on the Atlantic coast of Southern France to create a cool and contemporary collection of lingerie and loungewear. Staged in front of rocky cliffs and long sandy beaches, the collection features airy, natural fabrics and botanical-inspired laces and embroideries. Variations of blue, red and golden yellow, as well as soft beige shades and refined prints, round off the look. RRP: £20 - £290 Sales contact: Intimates Lingerie, [email protected]

Marjolaine

About: French brand Marjolaine has created a range inspired by the retro bohemian spirit. It combines silk and lace with beading and extravagant back details. Colours for the season include baby pink, crystal, ink and lotus. RRP: £80 - £295 Sales contact: Andrew Barnes, 01773 534177

Bestform

About: Bestform, the fuller-bust specialist, will showcase a range of decorative, everyday styles designed to support without compromising on style. The brand strikes the balance between femininity and fantasy, playing with opaque and transparent fabric in a range of colours inspired by Afro-Cuban beats. RRP: TBC Sales contact: [email protected]

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Vivis

About: Luxury Milan-based brand Vivis has created a range of sophisticated nightgowns, kimonos, robes and pyjamas made using Italian silks. UK agent Philippa Bradley Agencies will showcase this brand at INDX. RRP: £65 - £315 Sales contact: Lucy Osborne or Nicky Clayton, 02074994598

PRODUCTS & TRENDS

INDX PREVIEW

Luna di Seta

Scantilly

About: The SS18 range from Luna di Seta combines classic styles with new fabrics and embellishments. Crystals are added to the collection, which blends silk satin with chiffon to give a sophisticated and elegant look. Seasonal colours are influenced by macaroons: yellow, rose, turquoise and red. A classic range of nightwear is also available in ivory and black. RRP: £50 - £250.00 Sales contact: Richard Barnes, 01773 534177

About: Decadent design, sumptuous charm and uncensored spirit define Scantilly – a fearless collection for curvaceous women in DD to HH cups. For SS18, the brand has been inspired by comic book heroes to create a lingerie collection that can be worn from the boardroom to the bedroom. RRP: TBC Sales contact: Lynne Daykin [email protected]

Pretty Polly

About: British hosiery brand Pretty Polly will showcase another range of fashion styles this season, featuring fishnet designs, graphic sheers and sporty mesh. Highlights include a new skin tone range of sheers, which have been added to the best-selling Naturals collection. The range offers six 7 denier styles in six skin tones. RRP: TBC Sales contact: [email protected]

Charnos

Katherine Hamilton Intimates

About: Building on its two core designs, the SS18 collection from this fuller-bust brand features six new sets, including a new long romantic robe and an ‘under couture’ bodysuit with inbuilt bra. Pastel tones of vintage rose and argent green reflect the season whilst an energetic black and coral set eases the transition from winter to spring. The brand's signature vintage-inspired design is embellished with a new metallic lace, velvet trim and bespoke silk print inspired by the spring Fritillaria flower. RRP: £58 - £550 Sales contact: [email protected]

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About: Elegance and sophistication is at the heart of Charnos Lingerie and nothing has changed 60 years on. The SS18 collection is fashion-focused using embroidery and lace, without compromising comfort or support. Soft colours create a tonal spring palette of pastels with ivory and soft pink. RRP: £14-£38 Sales contact: Peter Cronin, [email protected]

Naturana

About: Heritage brand Naturana prides itself on providing women with practical, modern and comfortable lingerie for everyday wear. Key features include flat seams, double moulded cups and dainty lace detail. For SS18, Naturana has added an underwired, animal-printed style to its best-selling minimiser collection. The new style also has padded stripes for extra comfort. Naturana has also built on its sports bra collection with a new style designed with extra support panels, double moulding and removable pads. Crafted in grey marl, the sports bra has internal hooks, in addition to the zip, for security. RRP: TBC Sales contact:Tom Kavanagh, [email protected]

LINGERIEINSIGHT August 2017 www.lingerieinsight.co.uk

THE TRIACTION COLLECTION Triaction by Triumph is a stylish, high-performance sportswear collection that gives modern women the freedom to train how and when they like. For Spring Summer 2018, Triaction by Triumph introduces, Magic Motion® Pro. Guaranteeing the highest and best bounce control available on the market, the latest cardio series offers stylish fits, softness and breathability thanks to its soft-touch Magic Wire® Air innovation. This season’s collection also features Zip Lite, a new front closure style to the Dynamic Lite series and the launch of active wear, designed to be mix and matched for a super stylish yet functional sportswear outfit, no matter what the activity.

F I N D T H E O N E T H AT M O V E S Y O U TRIUMPH.COM

BRANDS & CAMPAIGNS

WACOAL

Revive and refresh Wacoal Europe has taken the decision to refresh its brand portfolio in time for SS18. Brand director Laura Simon explains what this means for the future of the lingerie and swimwear group

W

acoal Europe has unveiled a brand refresh across its portfolio of lingerie and swimwear labels for SS18. Laura Simon, an expert in brand communications and business strategy, joined the group as brand director in June 2016 and has been working to redefine Freya, Fantasie, Wacoal, Elomi, b.tempt’d and Goddess, applying new visual identities and interaction principles. She previously worked for brand agency Brand Union as director of business development and digital, and for WPP as global development director for P&G. “I also ran a digital agency, integrated it into a branding agency and a year ago I moved over to Wacoal, which is very exciting because the business has grown organically, and now it’s a time to reset and plan ahead,” she explains. Over the last year, Simon has been driving brand recognition across the Wacoal Europe group after it became clear that some of the label’s identities had merged and become distorted.

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Wacoal is the group’s most premium brand

“I’ve spent a lot of time with our sales team, sat in customer meetings, got lot of feedback and the thing that was very obvious was that, because we have growing organically, there has been times where people were saying ‘does that sit in Freya or Fantasie?’,” she says. “So, really, my role is about clarity and definition.” With Freya, Wacoal Europe’s main goal is to attract a younger customer whilst retaining its existing customers.

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“When we were in our heyday a number of years ago, Freya was all about being young and fashionable, but we have probably slightly aged with our consumer,” explains Simon. “So it was about how do we stay loyal to our base but actually think about a slightly younger audience and getting them into the brand.” Wacoal Europe has developed a communication strategy in order to speak directly to the Freya customer, in a way that is relevant to her.

WACOAL

BRANDS & CAMPAIGNS

Fantasie lingerie is designed for everyday wear

Brand director Laura Simon

Defining the Freya customer, Simon says: “She’s not the easiest person to design for because she’s out and about and she has different needs from her lingerie, so we need to remember that she’s working, she’s going out, she’s going clubbing, she’s going on dates and she’s into athleisure and casual wear. “Personality and the values of our brand are really the things that will drive the brand. It’s about being experimental and being fun,” she continues. Wacoal Europe has invested in social media and digital PR to communicate with the Freya customer. “We’re working with influencers and creating content that entertains her and talks to her in a way she wants to be spoken to,” explains Simon. “By doing that with Freya, it gives room for Fantasie to really come into its own,” she continues. “The Fantasie customer knows herself, she knows her body and she just loves our products. So it’s really is about establishing Fantasie lingerie as a foundation for their day – it’s a ritual and it’s part of her life. So a lot of work has been done on Freya which will allow Fantasie to evolve.” With Wacoal Europe’s most premium brand, Wacoal, the group hopes to make the label more accessible to

Wacoal Europe hopes to attract a younger customer to its Freya brand

Elomi has been growing organically for the last few seasons

international markets, whilst retaining its chic, timeless style. “I would say that Wacoal is still quite new to parts of Europe and there has definitely been some confusion about what it stands for,” says Simon. “So we are taking the timeless classic and premium nature of the business and applying it to a mass market. We’re doing quite a lot of work across product to make sure it offers a variety of price points, but still falls in line with this timeless, classic style. “We’ll also be working with influencers that these women are connected with and looking at what role Wacoal plays within that.” Wacoal Europe is also working to connect with the Elomi customer on a more personable level. “Elomi is a fantastic brand with amazing potential. It’s been growing on its own and the product really speaks for

itself, so therefore we’re going invest in going to market with the brand with a more outward message,” says Simon. “We already know that curves are sexy, so it’s about making the brand more meaningful. It’s about femininity and the strength Elomi lingerie gives to women.” Wacoal Europe’s main goal with the refresh is to connect with the consumer and create communities around its brands, thus allowing them to grow their audience further. “I think the business has been very focused on product and that’s absolutely always going to be key, but we need to create clear brand identities in order to create emotional connections with the consumer,” explains Simon. “I also feel like, because of the nature of the work that we’ll be doing, we’ll receive feedback from the consumer, which will in turn drive new product design.”

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Catch up online AUGUST 2017 / VOL 08 ISSUE 04 www.lingerieinsight.com

The bra fit probe THE RECOGNISED STATISTIC THAT MOST WOMEN ARE WEARING THE WRONG BRA SIZE IS CALLED INTO QUESTION

Exclusive interview JOHN LEWIS’ NANCY SZACHNO-DRESSEL ON THE CHALLENGES SHE FACES AS A LINGERIE BUYER

FULLER BUST: BEST-SELLING LINGERIE STYLES OF THE YEAR WACOAL EUROPE: THE LINGERIE AND SWIMWEAR GROUP UNDERGOES A REFRESH

HAPPY DAYS

THE ONLY WAY IS UP FOR NATURANA AFTER RESTRUCTURING ITS SALES TEAM AND ADDING EXCITING NEW LINES TO ITS OFFERING

Our magazine is also free to view on our website Visit www.lingerieinsight.com/emagazine to read the latest issue on the go

POST SURGERY

PRODUCTS & TRENDS

POST-OP LINGERIE

INNOVATIONS Experts in the post-surgery lingerie sector discuss some of the positive trends that are driving growth in the market and the exciting new innovations that are launching in stores nationwide

The new Karolina bra and brief from Amoena

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PRODUCTS & TRENDS

POST SURGERY

I

t is no secret that an increase in breast cancer diagnosis is driving growth in the postsurgery lingerie market. According to Cancer Research UK, breast cancer incidence rates have increased by around a fifth (19%) in the UK since the early 1990s. But there are also many positive trends that have been cropping up in the wider intimate apparel sector in recent years that are leading to an increase in sales in this category, and thus helping suppliers and retailers meet their customers’ demands. For instance, fashion trends across nonspecialist lingerie styles, such as vibrant colours, bold prints and lightweight fabrics, are finally filtering through into post-surgery styles, and as this happens, more and more retailers are taking notice.

“Because post-surgery lingerie is becoming more creative in terms of design, it sits better alongside mainstream ranges on the shop floor, so retailers are happier to stock it,” says Amoena UK marketing manager Rhoda White. Further to this, as more women demand beautiful lingerie, and more retailers, boutique designers and entrepreneurial breast cancer survivors pop up to meet to meet the need, more women are discovering afresh the more established breast cancer care companies on the market, which can only be a good thing. Anita Care managing director Jemma Barnes believes that growth in the postsurgery market has been driven by independent retailers looking for new “specialist areas” for their businesses, in order to attract custom.

Anita has adapted its best-selling Extreme Control sports bra to house a pocket for a prosthesis

“I think retailers on the high street are now looking at all specialist areas when purchasing stock, whereas in the past small back sizes and large cup sizes drove business to their doors,” she explains. “I also believe that people in the lingerie industry have a real passion for ‘care products’. Our industry naturally invokes emotional connection and there is nothing more rewarding than helping a post surgical lady who has lost confidence in her body to regain her curves and feel comfortable, feminine and glamorous again.” The rise in customer expectations has also played a part in the amount of retailers now choosing to stock post-surgery lingerie and swimwear. “Customers now expect to walk into the majority of high street stores or lingerie and swimwear boutiques stores and have the opportunity to view, try on and purchase various post-mastectomy styles,” explains Nicola Jane operations manager Melissa Reeve. “The Nicola Jane range is now being stocked in many independent boutiques and department stores. It is however important that alongside choice, retailers have staff trained to deal specifically with post-surgery customers as it is essential that their post-surgery needs and requirements are understood and met.” Debenhams is one retailer that is focusing its efforts on training staff to

Nicola Jane has launched the Lottie bra in raspberry for SS18

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POST SURGERY

fit customers with fashionable postsurgery lingerie. “One of our biggest focuses continues to be on staff training, ensuring that staff are fully equipped to help customers who are coming in to find their perfect bra,” says senior buyer Ananda Gill. “Many of our staff are incredibly passionate about wanting to help and go above and beyond, working closely with their local breast clinics.” Gill believes value for money is one of the key drivers of growth in this category. “There is a growing awareness within the retail industry around social responsibility and this comes in so many forms, but I believe one thing we will see more of is retailers joining us in our views that all women should be able to shop for a post-surgery bra in the same places they have shopped before their surgery, without incurring a hefty price tag,” she explains. So as more retailers are realising the emotional and financial benefits of stocking post-surgery lingerie, what new trends and innovations should they be looking out for?

Naturana, which offers a line of moulded mastectomy bras, has adapted this range as prostheses have evolved. “As prosthesis become more comfortable, the shape is much more natural and less heavy,” says Naturana key account manager Tanya Bulloch. “This has helped our designers develop more ways to incorporate femininity and functionality into our mastectomy bras. Our Secret Support bra offers pocket reinforcement to ensure the correct fit and encourage everyday confidence.” Amoena, which makes post-surgery lingerie that combines visual appeal with comfort, fit and performance, has incorporated several innovations into its garments over the last year. Some of the brand’s favourites include spacer foam technology. “Spacer foam has imperceptible air pockets that allow air to pass through the cup, making it very light and more breathable than traditional foam cups,” explains White. “This technology also helps us create bras that are as supportive and shapeenhancing as moulded-cup bras, but

PRODUCTS & TRENDS

Debenhams has its own range of pocketed post-surgery bras

Community care Post-surgery brands and retailers share details of the projects they have been working on recently to help women who have undergone breast surgery find the perfect bra. Anita managing director Jemma Barnes: “We have our new mobile fitter, Carolyn Portch, who has spent the last year promoting the importance of well-fitting bras at clinics and hospitals across the UK. A breast form is provided via the NHS and Carolyn then recommends which bra is best for the patient and gives details of the local specialist Anita stockist where the bra can be bought.” Amoena UK marketing manager Rhoda White: “We work closely with our retailers to ensure that they are trained to fit postsurgery lingerie and provide their customers with the best possible

shopping experience. The Amoena Academy offers a range of courses to help retailers gain the necessary skills and knowledge, and our courses are free of charge. We also work with selected retailers to hold fitting events, where women are encouraged to be fitted for a bra and try a selection of the latest lingerie and swimwear styles.” Debenhams senior lingerie buyer: “We collaborate with Breast Cancer Now’s fantastic ambassadors to gain their input and ensure that comfort is in the DNA of the product, without compromising on style.” Naturana key account manager Tanya Bulloch: “We have been speaking to local breast care nurses in the NHS to see how we can progress with our styles. The ladies in our office also take part

in the Moonlight Walk in aid of cancer research.” Nicola Jane operations manager Melissa Reeve: “Over the last 10 years we have campaigned and featured real customers as Nicola Jane Inspirational Women modelling our post-surgery and mastectomy collection in our catalogues and on our website, and this is something which we will continue in 2018. We also work closely with our fitting team to listen to customer feedback and hold regular team meetings to discuss product demands. We also have a specialist Breast Care fitting team who attend support groups and organise regular fitting clinics across the UK, Ireland and Channel Islands offering an expert bra, swimsuit and prosthesis fitting service for ladies who do not have access to this in their local area.”

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PRODUCTS & TRENDS

POST SURGERY

A moulded mastectomy bra from Naturana

infinitely lighter – a bonus in hot weather and for anyone experiencing menopausal symptoms as a result of their treatment.” The brand has also incorporated memory foam into its bras. This is a shapeperfecting technology that is designed to make bras more comfortable and versatile. “Memory foam absorbs body heat, quickly adjusting to body temperature, and

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can then perfectly adapt to the shape of the breast,” adds White. “Once taken off, it returns to its natural shape. This means bra cups don’t crease or get out of shape – a bonus when packing in a suitcase or storing in a lingerie drawer. Instead they feel like a second skin, shaping to a woman’s breast or breast form and helping even out any

LINGERIEINSIGHT August 2017 www.lingerieinsight.co.uk

irregularities for a perfect silhouette in clothing.” The post-surgical market is evolving in response to changes in surgical techniques and practices. As more and more cases of breast cancer result in partial surgery rather than a full mastectomy, innovative products that are seam-free and wire-free, but still offer high levels of support and compression, are giving comfort and shape to wearers immediately after surgery. Take the Anita 1199 ‘Initial postoperative bra’ for example. “This features a terry towelling lining that covers the join from the under band to the cup – the location of scars after segment resection – and this seam-free soft option provides welcome comfort and high-level compression for faster healing,” says Barnes. The Calmia 5310 post radio therapy bra is another clever innovation from Anita Care. “This brings comfort to sore skin damaged by radiotherapy. With minimal pressure and a full seam-free bra lining, it is super soft for the wearer. The bra also has no joins from cup to strap and has no metal adjusters that can be dangerous for radio therapy patients to wear,” she adds. For SS18, Anita has adapted its bestselling 5527 Extreme Control sports bra to house a pocket for a prosthesis. “Women are encouraged to exercise after surgery and this will allow them to train with confidence, knowing that they are getting maximum support for their natural breast and that their prosthesis is well secured and will not be exposed,” says Barnes. “The new 5727X is launching in the fashionable ‘heather grey’ colourway.” Debenhams has also seen the overall trend for sports and activewear filter through into post-surgery bras and swimwear in the last 12 months. And as a result, the retailer is set to launch an ownbrand post-surgery sports bra. The Nicola Jane SS18 lingerie collection is currently being updated to include new trims and soft-cushion seal hook and eyes. “Comfort is a key aspect of post-surgery and mastectomy lingerie and we are continuously improving and adapting our collection based on customer feedback. Popular continuity styles are also being reintroduced into the collection for SS18 in on-trend colours.”

Post-surgery apparel

www.amoena.co.uk 0845 072 4024

PRODUCTS & TRENDS

SWIMWEAR TRENDS

TOP SWIMWEAR TRENDS We pick out the key swimwear trends to look out for in SS18

Bold shoulders SKILLFUL DRAPING, ASYMMETRIC CUT-OUTS AND PLAYFUL RUFFLES ARE HARD TO MISS

Touche Balneaire

Maison Lejaby

Miraclesuit

Mola Mola

Metalics

Decorative details

SHADES OF COPPER, GOLD AND PEWTER COME ALIVE IN SOLIDS, PRINTS, THREADING AND HARDWARE

SWIMWEAR DESIGNERS PLAY WITH EMBROIDERY, BEADING, DECORATIVE MOTIFS AND SEQUINS

Sumarie

Panache

West Seventy Nine

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Gottex

LINGERIEINSIGHT August 2017 www.lingerieinsight.co.uk

Vacanze Italiane

Gottex

SWIMWEAR TRENDS

PRODUCTS & TRENDS

Jungle prints JUNGLE AND TROPICAL PRINTS, ALONG WITH OVERSIZED FLOWERS, ARE EVERYWHERE THIS SEASON

Maryan Mehlhorn

Lepel swim

Maaji

Promise

Hello sailor!

Active influence

CLASSIC NAUTICAL COLOURS AND PRINTS WILL CONTINUE TO SELL THIS SEASON

SPORT REMAINS A MAJOR INSPIRATION FOR SWIMWEAR DESIGNERS

Curvy Kate

Lepel swim

Eva

LingaDore

Miracle Swim Performance

Profile Sport

www.lingerieinsight.co.uk August 2017 LINGERIEINSIGHT

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EVENTS

SOCIAL LITE

Mode City shined the spotlight on Colombian swimwear brands during its SS18 catwalk shows

Social Lite

A guest attends SIMPLY Los Angeles Fashion + Beauty Conference. Credit: Getty

THE PEOPLE, THE PLACES AND THE SCENES AT THE MOST GLAMOROUS LINGERIE EVENTS IN THE WORLD THIS MONTH...

Pamela Anderson attends the Rock My Swim catwalk show at Mode City Paris

A model walks in the BenchBody SS18 presentation during NYFW: Men’s in New York. Credit: Getty

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LINGERIEINSIGHT August 2017 www.lingerieinsight.co.uk

Singers TK Quann and Cipriana Quann strike a pose ahead of the Christian Dior AW17 Haute Couture collection show in Paris. Credit: Getty

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