modeller £6.50 - August’14 (issue 040)
Shizuoka Hobby Show 2014 • Vickers Crossley Armoured Car Model 25 • Leadwarrior Golliath F-400 • and more…
military illustrated
9 770268 832071
08
POLISH FT-17 OF THE 19191920 POLISH-SOVIET WAR MENG’S 1:35 FT-17 IN POST-WW1 ACTION
AFV edition
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Contents
modeller military illustrated
ISSUE No.040 August 2014
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24
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NEWS
Military model product news
SHIZUOKA SHOWTIME 2014
MiM-AFV Edition reports from the 2014 Shizuoka Hobby Show
12 ORDNANCE DEPOT
New and recent accessory sets and modelling materials
16 A RUSSIAN GUN AND A CZECH HULL – IN GERMAN SERVICE Angus Creighton up-details Tamiya’s Sd.Kfz.139 ‘Marder III’
22 MINE RESISTANT AMBUSH PROTECTED Kinetic’s new 1:35 ‘4X4 MRAP’ kit previewed
24 UPGUNNED HA-GO
Fine Molds 1:35 ‘Ha-Go’ is converted into the Imperial Japanese Type 4 ‘Ke-Nu’
30 REFS; M247 MULE; US MILITARY WORKHORSE
References for the M274 Mechanical Mule
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32 COVER STORY; POLISH FT-17 OF THE 1919-1920 POLISH-SOVIET WAR
Meng’s 1:35 FT-17 completed as a post-WW1 Polish machine
40 MINT IMPERIAL
Pit-Road’s 1:35 IJN Vickers Crossley Armoured Car Model 25
44 BUILD A BETTER BAITER Pt.1 Construction begins on Trumpeter’s 1:35 Jagdpanzer 38(t) Hetzer-Starr
52 DREIRAD ON MY WAGON Painting and weathering Leadwarrior’s 1:35 1938 Goliath F-400 utility vehicle
58 ALL ABOARD THE RHOMBUS!
Kit Preview of Tamiya’s new 1:35 Mk.IV WW1 ‘Male’ tank
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60 BOOK REVIEW
Military model-related book review
62 REFS; THE US M8 AND M5A1 IN NORMANDY
Diorama ideas and details for the US light tank and HMC
66 SIGN OFF
Dioramas to build before you die…
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News NEWS JUST IN...
MENG
1:35 PANZERHAUBITZE 2000
Meng’s next big release in 1:35 will be the modern German army’s mighty PZH2000 self-propelled howitzer, based on the Leopard tank chassis. The kit will come with various detail options; expect Meng’s impressive detail and excellent fit of parts. www.hannants.co.uk
BRAVO6
1:35 US Army Infantry ‘Broken Arrow’ 1:35 US Marines Tank Crew ‘Nam 1:35 US Grenades & Claymores 1:35 US GIs ‘Dig Boy, Dig’ 1:35 German Tankers ‘Lili Marleen’ www.skminiatures.co.uk
DRAGON
1:35 Panzerkampfwagen T-34-747(r) 1:35 Pz.Bef.Wg.III ausf.J w/schurzen www.hobbyco.net
HAULER
TAKOM
NEW 1:35 VEHICLES AND ARTILLERY
On the way soon from newcomers Takom are 1:35 WW1 Mk.IV ‘Male’ and ‘Female’ tanks, Skoda M1916 30.5cm howitzer, Russian KV-5 ‘paper panzer’ and a Landcruiser-type SUV with a militia www.pocketbond.co.uk figure
MASTERBOX 1:35 BRITISH AND GERMAN SOLDIERS, BATTLE OF THE SOMME 1916
This six-man figure set in 1:35 re-creates a well known photograph of the First World War of German prisoners carrying a wounded comrade, escorted by two British ‘Tommies’. Very well sculpted and full of pathos. www.creativemodels.co.uk
1:48 Soviet Field Kitchen KP-42 1:48 Steyr K2670 Leichter Panzertriebwagen 1:48 Tatra T-141 heavy tractor 1:35 Panzerfaust 1:35 Valve Hand Wheels www.hauler.cz
REVELL
1:35 M48 A2/ GA2 Patton 1:35 SpPz2 LuchsA1/A2 1:72 Spähwagen Fennek 1:72 GTK BOXER GTFzA1 www.revell.de/en
SKP
1:35 German WW2 Para Helmets www.skpmodel.eu
ZVEZDA
1:35 Russian BMP-2 1:35 Soviet Sniper Team www.hobbyco.net
THIS MONTH IN TAMIYA MODEL MAGAZINE… TAMIYA 1:35 M26 TRACTOR
MINIART 1:35 GAZ-AAA W/QUAD MAXIM GUNS
Despite the upheavals in their country, top Ukrainian model kit maker MiniArt have moved to different city and will soon be shipping new kits. Their latest vehicle is the GAZ-AAA truck, with quad Maxim machine-gun mount on its rear deck. www.creativemodels.co.uk This month’s edition of Tamiya Model Magazine (August, No.226) revisits Tamiya’s 1:35 M26 tractor from the Dragon Wagon combo. Order now at; www.tamiyamodelmagazine.com
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Military Illustrated Modeller - August 2014
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MODEL SHOW REPORT: SHIZUOKA HOBBY SHOW 2014
SHIZUOKA
SHOWTIME
2014
MiM reports from the 2014 Shizuoka Hobby Show
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amiya’s big news this year was the announcement of a new 1:35 kit of the First World War British Mk.IV ‘Male’ tank, the very first vehicle from this conflict to be kitted by Tamiya and quite a big leap for the company. When initially announced, the model caused some controversy in being motorised, something that some modellers seem to think will make the kit toy-like even though it’s still a scale model, just with a small motor. We think it’s rather cool and brings the model to life, and when the novelty of the motorisation has worn off, the kit will make a superb static display model with sharp detail and impeccable fit of parts Turn to pages 58/59 this issue for more details. To accompany the Mk.IV, Tamiya has created a set of five British WW1 infantry figures, three with Lee-Enfield rifles, an officer with a Webley revolver and a machine gunner firing a Lewis gun; outside of Japan, the tank kit will come with the figure set as standard. Also new from Tamiya is a 1:48 M10 IIC Achilles tank destroyer with 17pdr gun in its open-topped turret and a revised edition of Italeri’s German one-ton Demag 1-ton Sd.Kfz.10 halftrack. The latter will come with some new parts to refine the base kit, open or closed canvas roof, new tools and three figures. Also shown at this year’s SHS were Tamiya’s 1:35 German 7.62cm Pak 36(r) North Africa Scenery Set (ICM kit) and the 1:35 US Medium Tank M4A3E8 Sherman ‘Easy Eight’, the Tasca (now Asuka) kit, issued in limited-edition form. In this photo-report, you can see some interesting new releases from various manufacturers were also on show. So, please enjoy the new product photos on the following pages, more info soon! •
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The major display item was a full-size JGSDF Type 10 MBT! Very spectacular
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Above and below; Tamiya’s new 1:35 Mk.IV. Close-ups show the internal gears for the drivetrain and the tracks themselves, revealing their click-together assembly
Tamiya’s 1:35 WW1 British Infantry Set, ideal to go with the new Mk.IV tank
Tamiya’s 1:35 Sd.Kfz.10 Demag 1-ton halftrack - Italeri base-kit with re-engineered parts to enhance the scalelike look. Still an excellent kit that stands up well to modern standards. Kit included three crew figures
All photos by Brett Green
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MODEL SHOW REPORT: SHIZUOKA HOBBY SHOW 2014
Tamiya’s 1:48 British WW2 Achilles M10 IIC tank destroyer with 17pdr anti-tank main gun
Tamiya’s 1:35 7.62cm Pak 36(r) North Africa Scenery Set (ICM mouldings)
Below, Tamiya’s 1:35 British Paras with Welbikes. PE spokes for the bikes’ wheels
Meng Model, one of the brightest rising stars of recent times showed off their Russian BMPT ‘Terminator’ Fire Support Combat Vehicle. Also on the way soon from Meng is the Russian KV-5 heavy tank.
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Asuka showed off their gorgeous new 1:24 Bantam Jeep, which features full engine and chassis detail - an exquisite production
Asuka 1:35 JGSDF Type 60 APC, 1:35 JGSDF Type 73 Light Truck w/machine gun, 1:35 JGSDF HMV w/canvas top
Fine Molds have a new-tool 1:35 Type 61 MBT on the way, to join their existing JGSDF subjects.
Fine Molds 1:35 JGSDF HMV with machine gun, 1:35 JGSDF Type 73 Light Truck with recoilless rifle
Here we see prototype parts of Fine Molds’ 1:35 Type 61 MBT; production won’t be far off
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MODEL SHOW REPORT: SHIZUOKA HOBBY SHOW 2014
Hobbyboss 1:35 US CCKW 750 gallon tank truck
Above/below; Hobbyboss 1:35 Sd.Kfz.221 armoured car
Hobbyboss 1:35 Soviet T-26 1938
Hobbyboss 1:35 Soviet BA-10 armoured car
Hobbyboss 1:35 T-37 TU Soviet light-tank
Hobbyboss 1:35 Soviet T-28, due soon
Tamiya’s stand at the SHS is the biggest, naturally!
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Aoshima 1:72 JGSDF Patriot PAC-3 missile launcher system
Dragon 1:35 ‘Chow Time’ figure set with Pak36/7
Aoshima 1:72 JGSDF Patriot PAC-3 missile launcher system supply truck
Panda 1:35 Russian BMD-1
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ORDNANCE DEPOT New and recently issued kits and accessory sets for armour modelling projects
AK INTERACTIVE, SPAIN MODELLING MATERIALS
D
espite the exotic name of ‘Uniform Definition Filter’, this set of three, highly dilute colour-washes are formulated to create brush-ready fluids for the definition of detail on a model’s surface. The colour-washes (referred to as ‘filters’) are green, brown and dark brown in colour and could be used on a wide range of subjects. Also new is a set of six acrylics for panzer crew uniforms and a sheet of WW2 US yellow stars in the form of dry-transfer decals, various scales.
UNIFORM DEFINITION FILTER (AK3008) PANZER CREW BLACK UNIFORMS (AK3001) ● US YELLOW STARS IN CIRCLES ALL SCALES (AK101) ● ●
PLUS MODEL, CZECH REPUBLIC MODELLING ACCESSORIES
W ●
h en we lifted the lid on Plus Model’s newest accessory set, it was quick to see that it was no bog-standard release, in fact we were bowled over by it. The resin castings look like they’ll have a flush fit and as it is so well detailed, you can use it in lieu of a home-made item. Very fun for dioramas.
TOILET BOWL (EL065)
AMMO, MIG JIMENEZ, SPAIN
DEF MODEL, KOREA
1:35 GAMA GOAT RESIN WHEEL SET
T
h is set of six resin wheels for Tamiya’s M561 Gama Goat provide not only a realistic, weighted appearance, but also improved tread and sidewall detail and a ring of recessed rim-bolts – well worth the investment.
MODELLING MATERIALS
T
h is useful three-part pack includes all you need to re-create realistic mud effects, specifically Europe but the materials could be applied to many other parts of the world. A pot of ‘Europe Earth’ pigment powder, pre-thinned enamel ‘Earth’ (a colour-wash type fluid) and ‘Damp Earth’, an intriguing, semi-thick, slightly sticky wet mud effect that allows the pigment to stick. This set will be well worth some experimentation. ●
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EUROPE EARTH SET (7408)
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MODELCRAFT, UK
MASKING TAPE
M
odellers will always need masking tape and Model Craft have come through with a new line of ‘kabuki tape’ style in 6mm (two rolls per pack), 10mm (two rolls per pack) and 18mm (one roll per pack), with some extremely reasonable pricing. Good adhesive properties (slightly more tack than Tamiya tape) but appears to leave no residue. 6MM X18 M (two rolls per pack) 10MM X18 M (two rolls per pack) ● 18MM X18 M (ONE roll per pack) ● ●
PLUS MODEL, CZECH REPUBLIC FULL RESIN KIT
P
lus Model’S WOT-2D is moulded in green/ grey resin and includes a complete ladder chassis and a highly detailed engine which will take a delicate touch to build; this is not really a kit for a complete beginner. The rear body builds up from individual panels and features a detailed interior which will only be partially visible through the crew door at the rear. Two colour schemes are offered, one in SCC.15 Olive Drab/SCC.14 Black or SCC.61 Light Stone/SSC.1a Dark Brown. ●
BRITISH FORDSON WOT-2D LIGHT TRUCK (348)
VALLEJO, SPAIN
PAINT SETS
N
ew acrylic paint sets for specific modelling applications are increasing in popularity and Vallejo are adding new paint-packs to their catalogue quite frequently. Adding to the AFV Camouflage Color/ Painting System ranges, we have German 1943/44 colours (ideal for Tiger I, Panthers etc), NATO armour colours, good for Leopards etc., and US Vietnam olive drab. We used the system for German WW2 dark yellow last issue and it would very well indeed, so these useful sets come highly recommended. Also new is a set of eight bottles of paint to replicate WW2 German field grey uniforms, plus basic paints sets in the Model Color ‘War Games Paint Series’ for infantry and German armour. Finally, the International Security Assistance Force (ISAF) in Afghanistan includes a German contingent and Vallejo’s new set provides eight paints to cover the various camouflage colours in use on vehicles. GERMAN CAMOUFLAGE 1943/1944 (78.414) NATO ARMOUR COLORS (78.413) ● US VIETNAM OLIVE DRAB (78.412) ● GERMAN FIELD GREY (70.181)t ● INFANTRY BASIC PAINT SET (70.156) ● GERMAN ARMOUR PAINT SET (70.155) ● UMTARNFARBEN, GERMAN ISAF COLOR SET (71.159) ● ●
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ORDNANCE DEPOT New and recently issued kits and accessory sets for armour modelling projects
EDUARD, CZECH REPUBLIC MODELLING ACCESSORIES
N
ewly released for Eduard are sets for the magnificent D9 dozer from Meng (MiM 030, 032, 034) plus interior/exterior sets for Italeri’s HEMMT truck.
1:35 SETS ●
M2 Browning (635001)
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MG 34 gun (635002)
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HEMTT exterior (36259) for Italeri
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HEMTT interior (36269) for Italeri
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D9R Doobi Exterior (36265) for Meng
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D9R Doobi Interior (36268) for Meng
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T-90 MBT (36271) for Zvezda
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Pz.Kpfw.35(t) (36267) for Academy
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ATF Dingo 2 GE A PatSi exterior (36264) for Revell
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ATF Dingo 2 GE A PatSi interior (36263) for Revell
TOOLS; ●
CA glue applicator (00026)
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Circle and oval template (00027)
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Oblong and square template (00028)
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Oblong template (00029)
TETRA MODELWORKS, KOREA MODELLING ACCESSORIES
T
his is a new aftermarket company from Korea and so far, we are impressed. The first batch of items to arrive cover five 1:35 armour subjects and one 1:350 ship and are produced to a very high standard. Not one, but three T-90 MBTs are catered for (Zvezda, Meng, Trumpeter) and each comes with a machined aluminium gun barrel and multiple photo-etched sheets carrying reactive armour blocks, tool clamps, engine grilles and more. Extremely impressive. Meng’s Leopard 1 A3/A4 gets a host of exterior fittings as does Trumpeter’s Fennek LGS armoured car. Trumpeter’s 1:350 USS Lassen DDG-82 gets railings, ladders, hatches, helicopter rotors and tons more – ideal to spruce up the kit. RUSSIAN MBT T-90A/T-90 CAST TURRET W/BARREL (ME-35012) FOR TRUMPETER
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RUSSIAN MBT T-90A W/BARREL (ME-35002) FOR MENG
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RUSSIAN MBT T-90A W/BARREL (ME-35004) FOR ZVEZDA
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LEOPARD 1 A3/A4 (ME-35013) FOR MENG
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GERMAN FENNEK LGS (ME-35014) FOR TRUMPETER
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NEW FROM TAMIYA 1:35 BRITISH ARMY AIRBORNE SOLDIERS SMALL MOTORCYCLE SET
T
amiya’s next figure set consists of four British WW2 Paras and two ‘Welbike’ airborne motorcycles, the latter featuring photo-etched wheel spoke for accurate detail. Also new is a 1:48 17pdr equipped Achilles, 1:35 Sherman Firefly VC (Tasca/Asuka moulds) with six Tamiyamade infantry figures and the Russian-made 7.62cm (r) in DAK service (ICM moulds). 1:35 British Paratroopers w/Small Motorcycle 1:35 British Tank Sherman VC Firefly (w/6 Figures) ● 1:35 German 7.62cm Pak 36(r) North Africa Scenery Set ● 1:48 British Tank Destroyer M10 IIC Achilles ● ●
STALINGRAD, RUSSIA
T
his set of almost too realistic Russian refugee figures will be ideal for dramatic dioramas. ●
1:35 Russian Refugees 1941-45 (S-3070)
FRIULMODEL, HUNGARY
1:35 METAL TRACK SETS
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e w, cast-metal tank track sets from Friulmodel address the little FT-17, modern Italian Ariete MBT and 2S6 Tunguska. Fine detail and very realistic results can be achieved with this excellent products. MN ARIETE ‘ITALIAN TANK’ (ATL-152) RENAULT FT-17 REVISED (ATL-73) ● 2S6 TUNGUSKA (ATL-153) ● ●
WHERE TO BUY? Tetra Model; AK Interactive, Plus Model, Vallejo; AMMO; Model Craft; Friulmodel tracks; DEF Model; Eduard; Stalingrad; Tamiya;
www.tetramodel.co.kr www.creativemodels.co.uk www.migjimenez.com www.shesto.co.uk www.friulmodel.hu www.luckymodel.com www.eduard.com www.creativemodels.co.uk www.lsamodels.co.uk www.fieldsofglorymodels.co.uk www.hobbyco.net
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FEATURE ARTICLE: TAMIYA 1:35 SD.KFZ.139 7.62CM PAK36(r) AUF GW.38(t) MARDER III • Kit No. 35248
A RUSSIAN GUN ON A CZECH HULL – IN GERMAN SERVICE After missing last issue, Angus Creighton is back! This time, he up-details Tamiya’s 2001 Marder III 16
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Rivets and fillets were added to the outer gunshield and the inner portion was almost completely remade from plastic card
The ‘slides’ on the gun cradle were augmented with plastic strip
The sliding engine intake vent was remade using fine PE brass mesh
An example of the internal fabrication work
T
he Marder III Sd.Kfz.139 was developed in parallel to the Marder II Ausf.D based on the Panzer IID chassis and featured in the magazine a few issues ago. The latter featured fully welded armour plate while the armour fitted to the Marder III 139 was riveted. The Czech company BMM manufactured nearly 350 vehicles between April and October 1942 based on the Panzer 38t G and H chassis. Both vehicles mounted the captured Russian 7.62mm anti-tank gun, re-chambered to use German 75mm ammunition. Like the Marder II, minor production differences can be seen in the design of the gun shields as the height of the central gun armour was increased on later examples. Two examples remain in museums - one at Saumur in France which has early pattern gun shields and a second in the USA (ex Aberdeen Proving Grounds) which has the later pattern. Tamiya’s kit is based on this later design. The Tamiya kit was released in 2001 and generally stands up well compared with current kits. The rivet detail on the outside of the hull and gun shields is beautifully rendered, with excellent tools and smaller fittings. Typical of Tamiya kits of this period is the noticeable chamfer on the inside of the gun shields and side armour that may be visible
on the finished model, however careful sanding will resolve this. Like most ‘tank’ kits, no interior is included. The front hatches can be installed closed if this bothers you, or with the hatches open, figures could be added to fill the driver and radio operator’s positions. All the ammo lockers are well rendered, although the weatherproof covers are not included. Finally, rubber band tracks are provided which, although reasonably detailed, are best replaced with separate links to provide a more convincing ‘sag’ over the road wheels, if your budget will allow.
Enter CMK
Adding an interior adds another dimension to any AFV model and CMK produce the excellent upgrade set used here. The parts are exquisitely produced in resin and photo-etched metal, although additional details such as the kit floor and sidewalls require detailing by the modeller. This entails either filling the various holes and punch marks in the Tamiya kit, or simply adding a plastic card skin. Onto this, the various flanges can be added plus dozens of rivet heads using the ever-handy ‘punch and die’ set. This is made a little easier as the Tamiya hull
parts are separate flat plates, so much detail can be added before the hull is assembled. Whether you are adding an interior or not, it is essential to make sure these plates are joined accurately, with the upper hull parts dry fitted to ensure everything lines up correctly.
Re-built ammo storage
Turning to the ammo lockers, Tamiya include the upper portion visible from outside the vehicle but not the lower portion obscured by the gun mount. Although CMK include resin ‘extensions’, I opted to rebuild the lockers in plastic card, negating the need to hide the resulting join when mating the CMK and Tamiya parts. Not included by Tamiya, yet evident in period photographs are the weatherproof covers for each locker. These were fabricated at the same time, leaving only a couple of lockers open. The characteristic catches and straps were made using fuse wire and copper strip. On the finished model, you may notice photo-etched shell bases have been added. These were left over from Bronco’s Marder II build and add a nice touch of refinement. Moving to the upper side panels, the inside walls were thinned slightly,
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FEATURE ARTICLE: TAMIYA 1:35 SD.KFZ.139 7.62CM PAK36(r) AUF GW.38(t) MARDER III • Kit No. 35248
The tractor-style gunners’ seats were given improved struts
The distinctive gunner’s ‘basket’ was largely re-built from copper wire, recycling just sections of the outer rim of the kit part
Here we can see the ammunition boxes, re-made from plastic card with metal detailing
The ammo cases in place within the Marder’s hull; note the very tight arrangement
A view directly downwards into the Marder’s fighting compartment and the hull floor
after which the internal flanges were restored using plastic card. But what to use to the dome headed rivets on the inside? I was lucky enough to have an unused lower half from a Dragon sFH.18 Howitzer (kit 6392), the 150mm gun having been used on a Hummel project. This released an ample supply of rivet heads to complete this project and more in the future. The perforated folding seats benefit from careful thinning on the underside with a motor tool to better suggest the pressed sheet steel construction. The angle iron construction of the folding support leg was replicated here with plastic strip. Two tubular sockets, into which the removable back rest fitted, are made from drilled plastic rod.
Refining the ‘basket’
The wire basket supplied by Tamiya is adequate, but over-scale. I decided to remake a replacement using 0.3mm copper wire available from Hobbycraft and other craft supply stores. I started by assembling the kit part, then carefully cutting away the internal mesh
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Here we see the basket in place on the rear edge of the Marder’s gun deck; it’s a big improvement on the standard moulding
CMK’s gearbox/steering brakes were added to the frontal hull area, viewable through the partially open access hatch on the finished model
Close-up view of the hull’s inner detailing; note the removed lid of the ammunition case
leaving just the outer frame. After marking where the new 0.3mm wire would be installed, 0.4mm holes were drilled to allow slight adjustment. Next individual wires were inserted and bent to match the contours of the original kit part. Finally, a drop of cyano glue secures the wire within the frame. The cross wires can then be added and again tacked in place with supper glue. That all sounds rather easy to do but entailed an entire Saturday of nervewracking assembly as the drilled frame became so fragile and liable to disintegrate at any time. The final assembly however is surprisingly robust. The last detail to add are the sockets for the removable backrests that were stored here when not fitted to the seats. The cruciform gun mount was carefully cut away from the upper hull, with the open underside blanked off with plastic card. Having this part separate will make painting the interior far easier. Weld beads were added using the pyrogravure and the ends carefully thinned to allow it to be refitted to the hull. The horizontal areas of the upper hull were all
remade in plastic card to better represent the scale thickness as well as more accurately recreate the undercutting below the side ammo lockers. This also meant there was space underneath (viewed from outside the vehicle), to add missing flanges and more rivet heads.
The main weapon
Moving to the gun assembly, Tamiya have represented the Russian 7.62mm gun very well with all proportions appearing to be accurate. There are always areas that can be improved such as the slide trough which can be thinned down and inner bolt detail added. New runners are made from plastic card. The traversing gear mounted on the right of the gun should be fitted to a flat plate with space behind. The solid kit part was removed and a new mounting created in plastic card. Like the hull, the gun armour is perfectly detailed outside, however the characteristic spaced armour construction is simplified on the inside. To remedy this, I removed all of the inner detail, at the same
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Above and below; The extent of the plastic card additions to the gun shield and gun cradle can be observed here
With the interior areas painted, the airbrush can turn to the model’s exterior
time as thinning the armour to a unified thickness. The inner skin was created in 0.5mm plastic card, with 0.5mm lengths of plastic rod providing the spacers between the inner and outer skin. Once again flange detail was reinstated with plastic card and more rivets added from the sFH.18 Howitzer legs. The central sliding portion directly above the gun barrel should have connecting arms linking it to the gun. These are missed in this kit, but were provided as spares in the Bronco Marder II kit. The four periscopes are supplied in the kit, but the adjustable support arms are a little over simplified. plastic card strip to the rescue, with a little cyano applied to the inner hidden faces to add a little strength to a fragile assembly. The periscopes will be fitted after painting. Talking of painting – time to get some colour on this bad boy. With Marder III 139 production completed before the end of 1942, it is likely that all vehicles left the factory in dark grey. The possible exception would be the Marder
IIIs destined for the North African campaign, although it is equally likely that these were also grey, but over-painted in yellow before they went into action. I opted to model a vehicle of the 140th PanzerJäger Abteilung, 22nd Panzer Division, used in the Crimea during 1942 and the following year in southern Ukraine after the Soviet’s victory at Stalingrad. Images of a few of this unit’s Marders have survived and are identified by the playing card symbols painted on the hull, perhaps different symbols for each company? Both ‘2 of Clubs’ and the ‘3 of Hearts’ have camouflage painted over the base dark grey – presumably sand yellow, plus additional darker stripes – here interpreted as red-brown. ‘2 of Clubs’ also displays the name ‘Elfriede’ painted behind the playing card symbols. This photo provides the inspiration for my conjectural ‘2 of Hearts’ modelled here. With the interior painted earlier and carefully masked, the exterior was sprayed dark grey. Liquid masking fluid was applied
using a sponge to areas that would receive heavy wear, then a patchy coat of sand yellow applied. Finally the red-brown stripes complete the camouflage. Once dry, the masking fluid can be carefully rubbed away revealing the grey underneath. Pin washes and gentle drybrushing then follow before glossing the areas that will receive decals. The open white crosses were taken from the kit, while the yellow arrow of the 22nd PzDiv and the name Gerti were both taken from a generic markings sheet, produced by Tamiya in the early 1990s. The two hearts were cut from masking film and sprayed on. With the Model Kasten SK tracks installed, the project is complete. Is the finished model better for all the effort adding an interior? Although little is visible unless one removes the gun and cruciform base, the fact that one can catch a glimpse of the interior seems to make the model more complete. I’m happy it’s time well spent! •
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FEATURE ARTICLE: TAMIYA 1:35 SD.KFZ.139 7.62CM PAK36(r) AUF GW.38(t) MARDER III • Kit No. 35248
Driver’s upper armour doors were re-made form plastic card
Gunsight hatch, viewed from the gunner’s side
General view of the gunshield’s inner face showing the author’s many refinements
Modelspec: Tamiya 1:35 Sd.Kfz.139 7.62cm Pak36(r) auf Gw.38(t) Marder III Kit No.35248 CMK Marder III – Interior set (3022) Model Kasten Marder III tracks (SK-30) Aber Photo-etched clamps (35A93) References; Ground Power No 86 PanzerJäger Marder III (1) Delta Publishing Co Ltd MBI Marder III & Grille (ISBN 80-902238-5-0) Nuts & Bolts Volume 15 Marder III Sd.Kfz.139 Nuts & Bolts Volume 18 Marder III Sd.Kfz.138 Zimmerit Press PanzerKampfwagen 38t Variants (ISBN 096571150-X)
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Close-up of the painted ammunition stowage
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KIT PREVIEW: KINETIC 1:35 4X4 MRAP ARMOURED FIGHTING VEHICLE • Kit No. K61011
Photo by Ralph Zwilling; www.tank-masters.de
MINE RESISTANT AMBUSH PROTECTED Kinetic’s 1:35 ‘4X4 MRAP’ captures the vehicle’s muscular lines well
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here are myriad types of MRAP (Mine Resistant Ambush Protected) vehicles in current circulation, most, if not all, having been developed by the USA, UK and others to protect troops from IEDs and ambushes when on patrol in Iraq and Afghanistan. Standard military vehicles such as the HUMVEE and Land Rover are unsuitable for such roles as they offer little if any protection from buried IEDs; their flat bottomed chassis often forming a deadly shot-trap that amplifies a blast. The western military powers turned to the South African armed forces for help and inspiration; they have had decades of dealing with such threats and their V-hulled vehicles proved effective in deflecting the blast upwards
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and outwards, away from the crew compartment and significantly increasing survivability. So, the current generation of armoured vehicles utilise this vital concept as part of their design from the moment they begin design. Kinetic have a growing line of 1:35 armoured vehicles amidst their aircraft kit releases and their latest release is the ‘4x4 MRAP’. This is a generic name for what is clearly the International MaxxPro, but presumably they have skirted around using the name for licensing reasons. The kit comes moulded in grey polystyrene which, in this author’s opinion, is by far the best colour for almost any model kit subject. It features comprehensive chassis detail, the main
frame building up from side rails, crossmembers, leaf springs and shock absorbers to form a substantial structure to which the crew ‘pod’ is affixed. The upper cabin and crew compartment builds up panel by panel into a solid-feeling box and it features a decent level of interior detail, with seats, stowage racks, radio and more all provided. It’s worth searching online for detail photos for any extras you might wish to add to the compartment but as it comes, it’s a good enough for most purposes and will look impressive with the rear ramp lowered. The driver’s cabin is well appointed too, with foot pedals (often omitted in kits) and a good level of detail present. The armoured cabin doors are moulded individually,
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The upper hull and bonnet are moulded as one; this is a ‘curbside’ model
Detail is crisp and well-formed Tyres are well moulded in black vinyl but don’t feature sidewall logos The International diamond logo is moulded on the grille but the company name is omitted from the boxtop
Modelspec: SCALE: 1:35 MATERIALS: IM, PE, PC, WS Crew seats are a little on the basic side
Availability; Kinetic kits and DEF Model; www.luckymodel.com
Vehicle’s dashboard is a riot of dials!
MiM OPINION? Very detailed inside and out, just replace the tyres and fill a few sink marks. Main photo by Ralph Zwilling; www.tank-masters.de
A decent photo-etched set is provided, plus a sheet of waterslide decals
V-shaped hull is accurately replicated
Grille detail is nicely rendered
Close-up view of roof-top armour plate
so the driver’s station can be shown off to full advantage. The roof-top turret is a detailed subassembly, coming with clear glazing panels and a choice of either .50cal HMG or Mk.19 40mm grenade launcher weapons. The tyres are provided in the form of hollowmoulded, flexible items formed from black vinyl. They sport excellent tread detail and even exhibit the characteristic, dimpled sidewall-pattern, but they do not feature any moulded data detail or manufacturer logos etc. If you want this, it’s worth keeping an eye out for the DEF Model resin tyre set for this kit, which will feature the missing details, plus a weighted, bulged appearance for complete realism. Kinetic have done a decent job with this kit and while there are a couple of issues to address (most notably some sink-marks in the crew compartment outer walls) it looks like a good effort and will build into a handsome kit. •
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FEATURE ARTICLE: FINE MOLDS HA-GO CONVERTED TO KE-NU
UPGUNNED HA-GO
Özgür Güner converts Fine Molds 1:35 ‘Ha-Go’ into the Imperial Japanese Type 4 ‘Ke-Nu’
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he type 4 Ke-Nu was an Imperial Japanese light tank and despite being an entirely different vehicle, its development was directly related to the main Japanese battle tank of the era, the Type 97 Chi-Ha. Combat experience revealed that the 57mm gun of the Chi-ha tanks was ineffective due to its low muzzle velocity. Several changes needed to be made in the turret design to accommodate the 47mm guns with higher velocity. These changes led to the development of Shinhoto Chi-Ha, the most effective battle tank of the Japanese Army. On the other hand, this program resulted in many obsolete Chi-Ha turrets, since all existing tanks had their turrets replaced
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with the new design. The development of the Ke-Nu began at this stage. The outdated Type 95 Ha-Go tanks had their own turrets replaced with old ChiHa turrets to upgrade their armour and firepower and a new battle tank was born. This new tank was named the ‘Type 4 Ke-Nu’ and by the end of 1944, about 100 Ha-Gos were converted to the Type 4 Ke-Nu by the installation of old Chi-Ha turrets. These old tanks with new guns were mainly situated in the main Japanese islands against American invasion, since it was too late for them to be transported to the front to make any impact. A few examples were sent to Korea and Manchukuo and they were actively used in Manchuria during the Russian invasion.
THE KIT AND ASSEMBLY
Unfortunately, there are no readily available Ke-Nu kits in injection plastic. Yet, it is possible to convert the Fine Molds’ Ha-Go kit into a Ke-Nu by using a resin conversion set from a small German after-market producer, MR Modellbau. I will use these two kits, namely Fine Molds’ #FM16 Ha-Go and MR Modellbau’s #35131 conversion set for this project. In addition, I will also use Fine Molds’ #MG 28 Ha-Go detail set and metal tracks from Spade Ace Model (#SAT 35095). Lastly, I found out that I would actually need Tamiya’s antiquated Chi-Ha kit at some stage during the build as well. The Fine Molds kit seems a little dated compared to the latest kits available today. While the upper
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Here we see the new resin hull parts in place and the turret being preparaed
The new MR Models front panel alongside the kit’s upper hull moulding
Ultimately, the author chose to use a turret from Tamiya’s old Chi-Ha kit, with some modifications
The completed model showing the extent of the conversion parts. Note the cast metal jack on the rear track guard
The photo-etched exhaust guard comes with the Fine Molds kit and makes a big difference the model’s appearance
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FEATURE ARTICLE: FINE MOLDS HA-GO CONVERTED TO KE-NU
A stippled-on coat of Mr Surfacer 500 was applied to the hull and turret in readiness for the paint
The metal tracks are by ‘Space Aces’ and are available from www.hobbyeasy.com
A mixture of Tamiya XF-60 Dark Yellow and XF-57 Buff was used to create the model’s base colour, lightening the shade towards to the upper areas by adding more XF-57
Revell’s Matt 47 was used to form an undercoat for the colour coats to follow
hull is a single piece, the lower hull is made up of several pieces and builds up by cementing the side and rear walls to the bottom panel. One problem that reveals itself as soon as you open the box is extensive flash on all parts. A thorough cleaning session is required to make the parts usable. MR Modellbau’s resin set provides a front hull part, exhausts, turret and some small parts. In addition, the cupola hatches, aerial mounts and the machine guns are provided as metal parts. The quality of the metal parts is acceptable. Unfortunately, the same cannot be said of the resin parts. Their casting quality is poor and there are bubbles in various places; they require serious clean-up. The worst of all the problems is that the hull casting (No.1) was seriously deformed. This part seemed beyond salvage, so I contacted the manufacturer for a replacement. In a relatively short time, a replacement part without any flaws was sent to me. The conversion of the Ha-Go into the Ke-Nu begins with the installation of the front resin part. You need to cut and remove a frontal part of the Fine Molds’ upper hull to accommodate the resin component. The installation of this resin part is easy
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and without problems. Despite this, the installation of the resin turret is a different story, with a horrible fit. It looks like a straight copy of Tamiya’s Chi-Ha kit turret, but there are many moulding deficiencies. With much work and even more patience, it might be possible to salvage this part and make it usable. I chose an easier route and liberated a turret from a Tamiya Chi-Ha kit directly. The Tamiya turret is much larger compared to Ha-Go’s own turret, so I need to enlarge the diameter of the mount to ensure it fitted. There is a guiding part provided in the resin set that shows you the necessary diameter, so you can put this in place and make marks to cut away the excess. In the following stage, the lower and upper hulls are cemented together. This assembly reveals a very prominent gap at the front mudguard section. I filled it first with some plastic and then used putty for the remaining gaps. Tamiya’s Chi-Ha turret was assembled and the resin conversion parts for the cupola, gun barrel and machine guns were added. The road wheels were prepared and then fitted temporarily. After this, some small items from the detail set, like metal parts under the forward mud
guards, gun port covers, etc., were fitted to the model. The small details on the hull provided by the Fine Molds kit and the turret aerial from the Tamiya kit were also fitted at this stage. The tiniest parts were the last ones to be positioned. There’s a special mount on the turret to attach the anti-aircraft machine gun and while this part is included in many Fine Molds kits, none of the kits provide the necessary machine gun. Once again, I had to get help from Tamiya and I liberated the gun from the Chi-Ha kit. Despite the age of its moulds, the quality was very good, which goes to show that while the Tamiya kit is antiquated, it still is a good kit. The last part of the assembly was the tracks. Unfortunately, the vinyl tracks are the weakest point of the Fine Molds’ Ha-Go kit. I used these one-piece tracks on a previous Ha-Go build and while I didn’t run into any serious problems I didn’t like their quality at all. As a result, I used Spade Ace’s Type 95 metal tracks on this kit. After the tracks were fitted to the kit, I applied Mr Surfacer 500 to the surfaces by thinning it well and using a brush. This concluded the assembly stages.
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The green portion of the camouflage was mixed from XF-60, XF-57 and XF-58 Olive Green
The brown areas were created using a mixture of XF-60 and XF-9 Hull Red Left and bottom; The characteristic yellow stripe of IJA tanks was created by intricate masking using tape
PAINTING
The entire kit was sprayed with Revell Matt 47 to prepare it for painting. I did some research at this stage and I can’t say I found a lot of Ke-Nu photos of the period. On the other hand, there were many interesting colour profile illustrations and I decided to apply one of these on my model. Tamiya paints were used mostly on this project and first of all, I made a mixture of XF-60 and XF-57 to create my base colour and sprayed this on. By increasing the amount of XF-57 in this mixture, I painted the highlights and areas that would reflect more light. The second colour was XF-58 Olive Green. I applied soft-masks using ‘Uhu-Tac’ on various areas and then sprayed this colour on. I added some XF-57 Buff to the green mix and painted various tones in different areas. The final colour of the camouflage was painted using a mixture of XF-9 Hull Red and XF-60 Dark Yellow, with a mixture rate of roughly 5:1. Some areas were masked before I sprayed this colour. Then it was time to paint the nightmare for many modellers, the yellow stripes. On my previous models, I experimented with various techniques
but I have concluded that the best way to paint them is to make an outline using masking tape and then add small, pre-cut pieces of masking tape to do this. Depending on the technique, I first stick the masking tape on transparent acetate folders and then cut in various curved shapes. Normally it is hard to cut the masking tape in curved shapes, but sticking it to a plastic surface like acetate greatly improves handling and allows you to cut with control. After my curved parts are ready, I use them to form the borders of the stripes and roughly create the outline of the stripes. This process requires a lot of patience and time, but it offers the best result. After my masks were in place, the yellow stripes were painted using a mixture of XF-3 Flat Yellow and XF--60 in a 3:1 ratio for the yellow colour. For the next stage, different coloured areas on the vehicle were painted using a brush and Vallejo acrylics. Various shades of rust were used for the exhaust, while Vallejo Dark Rubber was used on the road wheels for the rubber parts. The aerial was painted with Model Master’s copper and the star at the front was painted with gold from the same producer. I applied the decals at the
last stage of painting. The Fine Molds kit provides markings for the Ha-Go while MR Modellbau’s conversion set does not provide any decals. As a result, I had to use some decals left-over from previous builds. Unfortunately, I had no chance to verify if these were suitable decals for the vehicle or not.
WEATHERING
I began weathering by spraying a very thin layer of X-19 Smoke and XF-57 Buff over areas that I wanted to look very dusty and dirty in the following stages. After this, the entire model was sprayed with Tamiya’s X-35 Semi-Gloss Clear coat to protect my work so far. This also provides a good surface for the weathering applications. After the clearcoat was completely dry, I applied several layers of ‘filters’, or colour-washes. I like to prepare my own filters using oil colours instead of using ready-made filters. I diluted dark brown oil colours with Schmincke’s Diluent N thinner and applied my filters. This thinner from Schmincke is odourless and dries very fast, allowing you to apply several layers in a relatively short time. In the following
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FEATURE ARTICLE: FINE MOLDS HA-GO CONVERTED TO KE-NU
step, I applied a localised colour-wash using Mig Productions’ Dark Wash, touching the details with a fine brush and allowing the wash to flow around the base of these details. I allowed half an hour of drying time, then cleaned off the excess wash using Mig thinner and another fine tipped brush. The paint chips and scratches were simulated by painting them on, using a fine brush and Vallejo and Panzer Aces colours. Then I applied some oil streaks and grime using AK Interactive’s various grime products and engine oil colours. The excess ‘grimes’ were removed using white spirit. For the next stage, I applied some dust and mud on the lower hull. To simulate such an effect, I first prepared a mixture of earth coloured pigments. This mixture was dusted on over the sides of the lower hull using an old brush. A small amount of pigment fixer was dropped on the pigments to fix them in place. After this application dried, I applied the pigments again but this time used them dry. Then it was time for the tracks, which were painted with a mixture of brown and black paint. Similar to the lower hull application, earth coloured pigments were sprinkled on the tracks and fixed in place by dropping small amounts of pigment fixer on them. When dry, the tracks were fitted to the vehicle. It was then time to weather the lower hull. This time, I mixed earth toned colours from AK Interactive with plaster to simulate mud. This simulated mud was applied on lower areas by dabbing it with an old brush. The same mud mixture was also splattered at the front and back by blowing with pressurised air from my airbrush over the brush’s bristles. Keep in mind that splattering is a very messy application; you should take care not to ruin your clothes or your workbench! After the splattered mud was dry, different colours from the AK Interactive range were also splattered to enhance the mud effect. When the lower hull was dry, I started weathering the upper hull.
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Oil paint colour-washes were applied over the whole model to accentuate the surface detail
Weathering began with an application of X-19 Smoke and XF-57 Buff, thinned and applied in light layers. X-35 Semi-Gloss Clear sealed in the finish
Thinned Mig Productions’ ‘Dark Wash’ was used to further enhance detail
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Vallejo acrylic paints were used to create the matrix of simulated chips and scratches in the model’s paint finish
A dust and mud build-up was simulated on the lower hull. using a mixture of earthtoned pigments. The mixture was sprinkled over the lower hull using an old brush secured with pigment fixer
CMK pigments were used to create a dusty effect on the Ke-Nu’s upper surfaces, again bonded with pigment fixer
I chose to use CMK’s pigments here, applying them dry and in various quantities. Some areas received only a light brushing of pigments while other areas were covered with the powder. They were then fixed in place using small drops of pigment fixer. You should use the fixer with very controlled small drops, otherwise it will run down and can ruin your model. After everything was dry, it was time for final touches. I made a few small touch-ups using a graphite pencil on metallic surfaces to simulate metallic wear and metallic sheen. Afterwards, the darkest colours in the AK Interactive range were chosen to create splattered mud on the road wheels. In addition, the company’s ‘Wet Effects’ and ‘Oil Stains’ were used alongside these colours to simulate dirt, wet mud and oil stains on the vehicle. The model was completed by drybrushing the tracks with flat black first, followed by a drybrushing application using chrome silver.
CONCLUSION
It takes time and patience to build a Ke-Nu, but it’s a nice vehicle once completed. If you are a fan of IJA vehicles, this is a kit that should be in your collection. Who knows, maybe it will even get released as a plastic kit one day! •
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MODELLING REFERENCES: M274 MECHANICAL MULE
M274 MULE; US MILITARY WORKHORSE AND JEEP’S LITTLE BROTHER! The M274 Mule was introduced in 1956 to supplement both the Jeeps and 3/4 ton Weapons Carriers in airborne and infantry battalions. It evolved from improvements to the WillysOverland ‘Jungle Burden Carrier’, designed at the end of World War Two as a medical evacuation litter-carrier from areas and terrain that would even be a problem for the company’s Jeep to access. Further tests by the US Army at Eglin Field, Florida proved it also useful as carrier for both supplies and men.
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n 1948 the US Army purchased a small number of Jungle Burden Carriers for evaluation in jungle warfare and with airborne forces. The M274 ‘Mechanical Mule’ evolved from this prototype. 11,240 Mules produced between their introduction and 1970, when production ceased. They were used throughout as platforms for various weapons systems and for carrying men, supplies and weaponry/ammunition during the Vietnam War and in other US military operations until the 1980s. As a completely open and exposed vehicle, the M274 offered absolutely no protection to the driver, yet that was relatively unimportant as they were mainly used as cargo carriers and mediumrange infantry support vehicles, rather than tactical vehicles. They were phased out from military usage in the 1980s with the introduction of the HMMWV series vehicles. •
Source; edited from Wikimedia.
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Close-up of driver’s foot pedals and various gear selection levers. The small, black, T-shaped handgrip on the forward edge of the deck is the engine pull-starter, seen in use in the image to the right
The open-topped design offered no protection at all for crews but the Mule wasn’t a front line machine. Note the very basic seat and side-rails around the edges of the cargo deck
A US Marine pulls the starter cord of his M274 in the bulk fuel area at Cua Viet, Vietnam. Note the yellow markings on the corners of the deck, purpose unknown
Viewed head-on, we can see the quirky, offset steering column arrangement of the M274
US Marines secure canvas covers over the M40 106mm recoilless rifles mounted on their M274s. Deck-corner markings appear to be red and yellow here
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FEATURE ARTICLE: MENG 1:35 FRENCH FT-17 LIGHT TANK (CAST TURRET) • Kit No. TS-008
POLISH FT-17 OF THE 1919-1920 POLISHSOVIET WAR Sean M. Lynch builds Meng’s 1:35 FT-17 and paints it as a post-WW1 Polish machine
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he Renault FT, commonly referred to as the FT-17 was a light weight tank designed by France during WW1. It was borne out the interest of whether it was a better tactic to have fewer heavy tanks, such as the boxy St. Chamond, or a large mass of lightweight tanks to attack a position. The light tank designed by Renault featured a rotating turret with either a machine gun or light cannon mounted, a two man crew with the driver in the forward position and the engine in the rear. The vehicle featured a reliable engine for its time and was relatively easy to manoeuvre with good mobility. As to which type of vehicle won out, the FT-17 was used by armies
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around the world for years to come and in many conflicts. Its basic layout is the standard used by armoured vehicles to this day. One of the countries to use the FT-17 post WW1 was Poland in its war against Russia from 1919-1920. The war saw Poland and the Ukrainian People’s Republic fight against Soviet Russia and Soviet Ukraine over what is today’s Ukraine and even at one point threaten the new state of Poland’s existence. Poland used its French supplied, and to an extent French manned, FT-17’s to help successfully win the war, with the turning point being the Battle of Warsaw (also known as the Miracle on the
Vistula). The victory is seen as having stopped the Soviet expansion of communism after WW1 into Western Europe. This history intrigued me and I knew I wanted to model an FT-17 on a Polish version from this war.
FT-17 FROM MENG
There have been some kits of the iconic FT-17, but they needed much work. Fortunately, Meng has been releasing a lot of unique kits and decided to produce a round turreted FT-17. The first impression I had when I received the box in the mail was, “wow that is a small box” being used to building larger vehicles. While the box is small, it contains
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One of the suspension units takes shape. Note the maker’s plate and metal spring for the track return rail
Left and above left; The detail and of the engine and transmission can be seen. The only item that appears to be missing is any wiring, which the author didn’t add
The interior floor prior to installation of the engine. Be careful lining up the drivers seat back, the author had it backwards which caused a fit issue when the hull sides were installed and had to be trimmed down
The tracks have excellent detail and just snap together, though it may be advisable to use a pair of tweezers to slightly separate the receiving connector to avoid the possibility of breaking off the locking nubs. Most of the links required no cleanup, with only a few requiring minimal flash to be removed
This picture gives a feel of some of the subassemblies needed for building the FT-17. Several smaller parts need to be added after these are put together. As can be seen there is quite a bit going on for such a small kit
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FEATURE ARTICLE: MENG 1:35 FRENCH FT-17 LIGHT TANK (CAST TURRET) • Kit No. TS-008
The completed engine. The blue colour of the radiator is a bit suspect, but the author liked the visual ‘pop’ it gave, so left it as is
Views of the painted interior. Though hard to see here, the author installed the driver’s seat back support backwards which would later cause problems with the installation of the left side wall
a vehicle that has a full interior and several options for vehicles with choices of machine guns or a 37mm gun for the turret. In other words you get a lot in such a small box and such a small vehicle. The detail is very crisp and the engineering and fit is excellent. I went with a straight out of the box build as about the only thing I could see missing were maybe some cables and wiring. Since a full interior is included, I couldn’t resist building the vehicle so the interior can be shown. Even if you don’t want to show the interior, certain interior items will need to be installed, such as the engine firewall to help support all the hull pieces coming together. The hull comes in multiple pieces, ie. the floor, sides, front, rear and top panels are all separate. The fit is very good but patience and test fitting of parts is recommended.
THE PLAN
Since I intended to build the vehicle with the hatches open and certain panels being removable I needed a plan on how to build and especially paint the model. Different elements in the interior
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would need to be painted separately before assembly and then masking to ensure that none of the interior work was spoiled by the exterior work. In addition the suspension is separate units that attach to each side with space between the suspension unit and the hull. I decided that the FT-17 would be built and painted in subassemblies. This method enabled me to continuously work on different portions of the kit even if was waiting for another subassembly to dry after painting for example. The general plan in no specific order was: • Engine and transmission, assembled and painted separately from the rest of the interior • Interior built and painted as separate pieces, with some smaller pieces painted on sprees. • Engine and transmission installed and hull put together • Turret • Tracks, assembled, painted and weathered before installation to suspension • Suspension built, painted and weathered before attaching to hull
The engine has a lot of detail. About the only thing missing is any wiring, which I chose not to add. Which colours to go with for the engine and interior in general has been made a bit easier as there are colour photos on the internet of surviving engines that you can make out the original engine colours There are also plenty of photos of restored FT-17’s to help with colour choices. However, many times colours don’t match up from one photo to the next. This can be explained by several possibilities ranging from the original vehicle’s finishes, including engines, varied from one vehicle to the next, repainting of in service vehicles and of course restored vehicles aren’t always accurate. I decided on making my best guess from photos and what made sense for the engine colours Alclad was used for the steel colours and Vallejo used for all other colours The engine was given washes and grimy mixtures in spots. The viewer may question the blue colour of the radiator. I found a picture of a restored FT-17 that I thought was blue. After painting everything, I revisited the photo and realized the colour is
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The hull is now together and suspension sub-components have been added
It was now time for the main suspension parts to be mounted to the hull
Using some masking tape and an old business card to seal off the interior, the black primer and light yellow-beige base coats were carefully applied
more blue-grey. I decided to stay with my shade of blue because I liked the contrast and visual appeal even if it is not completely accurate.
INTERIOR PAINTWORK
The colour choice for the interior was easy, plain white. After the white was applied, various details were painted by best guess, the colour guide in the instructions and from reference photos, using Vallejo acrylics. Some of the smaller parts, such as the front hull plate, were left and painted on the sprues so that I didn’t mix up which part was what number for the assembly of the hull later on. A thin general brown wash was applied in several coats until the white was altered to dirty shade I liked, with some areas being cleaned with a brush slightly moistened with mineral spirits. A concentrated brown pin was then applied to accentuate the details. Some minor chipping was added with pure white to show where some of the dirt had been scrapped away. Oil stains were added to the engine compartment and engine. The engine was then installed to the floor plate. With the interior pieces painted, it was time to put them all together. This is where
making sure the internal and external parts are lined up correctly is key. The hull sides are directly connected to the transmission housing, driver’s seat back, firewall and fuel tank which helps line everything up. I did run into a problem with the seat-back for the driver. I installed it backwards. This meant that it hung over the left side of the base plate a bit too far and pushed the left side wall out. This was corrected by trimming back the side of the seat back support. There are a lot of pieces to line up, so take your time.
TURRET BUILD-UP AND TRACKS
The turret itself is straightforward. The only additions to it are the choice of gun, a strap for the commander/gunner to sit on and hatches. It followed similar treatment of the hull interior and what will follow for the painting of the vehicle exterior. When I needed to take breaks from working on the rest of the vehicle, whether for want of something different to work on or waiting for paint to dry, I worked on the tracks; construction was easy and took all of 5 minutes. Now it was
time to paint them. These are quite prominent on the FT-17, so a lot of time was spent on them. As with everything else the first step is to prime the bare plastic, with Vallejo Black Primer being the weapon of choice. I wanted to gradually build up the colour and weathering of the tracks over several steps. Next, a 50/50 mix of Tamiya Red Brown and NATO Black was airbrushed on. Some earth tones were added by painting on a mix of Tamiya Khaki, Flat Earth and NATO Black, focusing on crevices and areas where dirt would accumulate. Vallejo European Dust wash (which was close to the previous paint mix) was applied to enhance the dirt appearance. A slurry made of plaster and the Vallejo wash (I originally tried a slurry with a pigment, but wasn’t happy with the colour) was created and applied to the tracks, again focusing it on the deeper portions of the track with excess slurry being wiped away. After the slurry dried I did notice the white of the plaster trying to come through in spots so the tracks were washed with the Vallejo wash again. Once everything was dry a graphite pencil was rubbed on the wear points of the tracks.
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FEATURE ARTICLE: MENG 1:35 FRENCH FT-17 LIGHT TANK (CAST TURRET) • Kit No. TS-008
The brown, green and black were all hand painted and it took several thin coats to fill the colours in. Some brush marks were evident at this point, but the application of varnishes and washes in the next step would fill those in
The buildup of colour and weathering on the tracks took several steps, but the end result was worth the work. Vallejo’s waterbased acrylic ‘Model Wash’ was used here as well, to good effect
The tracks were base-coated with a dark brown mixture of Tamiya acrylic colours, thinned and applied by airbrush
EXTERNAL COLOURS
Now that the interior was done, the hull and turret built and the tracks in various stages of completion, it was time to paint the exterior. I had decided to build a vehicle based on a Polish FT-17 during the 1919-1920 war. Of course in that time period they still had the French camouflage patterns, so this could also be set in France in WW1. There is a website dedicated to Polish FT-17s with a few possible patterns, so between that site and a few black and white photos I came up with hopefully a reasonable approximation of a FT-17 in Polish service. The question is with the fairly complex schemes with sharp definition between the colours seen in this time period is do you mask and airbrush or do you hand paint. My choice was to airbrush the first colour and then hand paint. This worked well since I had a lot of open areas and I didn’t want put too much risk on ruining the interior work done and avoid a lot of masking, thus making the process go quicker. After a priming of black, a very light yellow-beige
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base colour was painted on using a mix of Tamiya Dark Yellow, Buff and White. The proportions were varied in a few places to start adding tonal variation. After these were applied the masking of the interior was removed and much to my relief the previous interior work was untouched. My hand painting of late has been limited to smaller items such as figures, tools and accessories. The idea of hand painting a larger area was a bit daunting and I worried about brush strokes in the finished product. I did have faith in my trusted Vallejo acrylics and I bought a new edging brush for the task at hand. With a bit of blind faith, I thinned some Vallejo Brown and started painting. This required several coats to fill it in but I was very happy with the end result, once the paint had dried. After the brown, Vallejo Tank Green was added. The borders of the green or brown with the yellow were lined in with Vallejo Black. Some minor brush strokes were evident, but these would be filled in with the following layers of varnish and washes.
WASHES AND WEATHERING
A coat of Future acrylic polish was applied to give a nice gloss finish to allow the easy application of washes to the model. A thin brown wash, much like what was applied to the interior, was spread over the exterior surfaces. This began unifying the colour, popping details and gave a slight dirty tint to the colours Once this wash dried a concentrated pin wash of black enamel focusing on the details was applied. The FT-17 has many rivets on the hull which scream for attention. After the excess of the pin wash was removed with a cotton bud, some mapping of the rivets and various other details were painted with a lighter shade of each of the three primary camouflage colours A coat of Vallejo Matte Varnish was applied to get rid of the glossy sheen from the Future, followed by a couple of coats of Vallejo Satin Varnish to achieve the desired finish. The applications of varnish and washes filled in any brush marks from the hand painting of the camouflage. Details such as tools and the muffler needed to be painted and missing items such as hatches
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Items such as hatches have been added and details painted. The suspension still remains unattached to aid in adding mud and dirt effects
An artist’s solid graphite pencil was used to add some metallic highlights to the assembled, painted and weathered tracks
Right and above right; The process of creating a rusty muffler started by the application various colours using the sponge technique, followed by filters of rust colours and ending with light application of pigments. Some black pigment would be added to the muffler after the last picture was taken
AFV Edition
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FEATURE ARTICLE: MENG 1:35 FRENCH FT-17 LIGHT TANK (CAST TURRET) • Kit No. TS-008
The model was built so that as much of the interior as possible could be displayed – with all hatches being open – and being able to remove portions of the upper hull as well as the turret
need to be added. Vallejo acrylics were again used for painting the details, though I waited to paint the muffler at this point. As I have stated before the hatches would all be open. I also decided to leave the engine deck panel unglued to the hull so that I could remove it and the underlying fuel tank for display if so desired. Masking tape was applied around and behind the muffler to protect the previous work done on the hull from the upcoming treatment of the muffler. A variety of colours ranging from black to yellow to dark browns were applied to the muffler using the sponge technique. The process was repeated with the various colours until I felt I had achieved the variations I wanted in the rust colour of the muffler. Filters using thinned down AK Interactive Light Rust Wash and Rust Streaks effects were used to enhance the tone. Finally, a very light coating of rust shades of pigments were added to give some texture to the muffler. At this point the model was just too clean. It was time to add some dirt. The first step was to create streaks. I used two methods to create the streaks. The first and primary method to create the streaks was to use small dots of oil paint placed in a triangle pattern which were then drawn down with a clean, dry brush to create the streak. The colours used included, white,
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brown and buff. Additional streaks were created with AK Interactive winter streaking grime. The streaks were confined to the hull and turret.
FINAL STEPS
The last stage was to add mud and some wet effects to the hull and suspension. I prefer to airbrush the mud and dust colours versus using a brush and washes to do it. I made up a mix of the earth colour previously used on the tracks and thinned it heavily. Using low pressure I slowly added layers of the mix to the hull and suspension until a good balance between mud colour density and pattern was attained. This colour closely matched the Vallejo wash, so the Vallejo wash was used to create some splatter on the rear of the hull by flicking it on with a brush. The excess liquid used previously in the slurry to create the mud for the tracks had evaporated leaving a nice thick, yet workable paste. This paste was added to various points of mud accumulation on the hull and suspension with a brush. The Vallejo wash was used to reinforce the colour and tone of the paste areas by applying a heavy drop of the wash to the centre of the paste and allowing it to accumulate around the paste. Some wet effects from AK Interactive were painted on random areas.
The steps that remained were to attach the tracks to the suspension units and then apply the suspension to the hull. Latex gloves were worn to protect against finger prints being embedded into the previous work This process required very careful handling to avoid ruining anything and was a bit nerve wrecking. Once done, the end result was very satisfying. The final touch was to add a figure. Since I wanted to depict a FT-17 from the Battle of Warsaw (aka The Miracle on the Vistula) during the 1919-1920 Polish Soviet War I had to somehow distinguish this FT-17 from a French FT-17 during WW1 since they still carried the French camouflage and markings. The answer came in the form of a figure. The figure is a Polish tanker circa 1920 and is from Scibor Miniatures (www.sciborminiatures.com) and is titled Polish tanker 1920. Bingo! We had a winner. The figure was painted and the figure and tank were mounted on a display plaque. The Meng FT-17 is a little kit, but it is packed full of detail. The option of a full interior is very welcome and screams to be displayed. I built the kit so that all hatches are open and the turret and engine deck can be removed to see as much of the interior as possible. The kit was a joy to build. •
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Close-up of the exhaust box during its rust treatment
Vallejo Model Wash being applied to the assembled runs of track
The base mud colour mix was the same as used on the tracks, airbrushed on in several thin layers. The Vallejo Model Wash was used to create some splatters at the rear. ‘Wet Effects’ from the AK Interactive line were painted on by brush to random areas
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02/07/2014 11:25
FEATURE ARTICLE: PIT-ROAD IJN VICKERS CROSSLEY ARMOURED CAR MODEL 25 • Kit No. G-27
MINT IMPERIAL Jeremy Moore builds Pit-Road’s 1:35 IJN Vickers Crossley Armoured Car Model 25
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n the mid-1920’s the British Army expressed a need for armoured cars for use in the expansive Northwest Territories of India. The Crossley Motor Company of Manchester, UK, responded with a vehicle with a chassis originally designed as a medium truck (designated IGL1) and an armoured body designed by Vickers Ltd. The vehicle featured solid rubber tyres, turret mounted .303 Vickers machine guns, and a clamshell-type dome opening for the commander. Designated the IGL1A by Crossley, the vehicle would be more commonly referred to as the Vickers Crossley Model 25 and would eventually be sold to the British Army, South Africa, Canada, Argentina, and Japan for use with the Imperial Japanese Navy. Never before seen in plastic model form, PitRoad of Japan recently released the Model 25 in 1:35 with markings for the IJN Special Land Forces during the Shanghai Incident of 1932. Moulded in tan styrene, the kit features 130 crisply formed parts with an additional sprue in clear plastic for the various lights and lenses. The quality of moulding is very high with minimal ejector pin marks and no visible flash. Instructions consist of isometric drawings with adequate detail and part callouts and are very nicely done. A two page colour and decal placement guide is also included. The simple
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layout and parts breakdown lends itself to a very quick and enjoyable build – so let’s get started!
ARMOURED SLED
Construction begins with the turret which is a very simple affair and a nice way to get things started. There are a total of four ball mounts for the Vickers .303 machine guns and the choice is yours as to which ones to use. The machine guns themselves are nice renditions of the Vickers guns and feature a hollowed out gun barrel. The ball mounts are designed to be movable; I found them to be quite loose, however, and opted to glue them in place once complete. Assembly continues with the upper hull which is brilliantly moulded in one large continuous piece without compromising any detail. The only disadvantage to this type of moulding is that the side doors are moulded shut eliminating the possibility of displaying any of the interior detail. The rear doors were added as well as the driver’s armoured visors and the armoured rear doors. The bonnet also received some details in this step in the form of very petite moulded handles and wing nut fasteners. The fit of all parts up to this point was nothing short of excellent and only a minimal amount of Tamiya thin cement was needed. Once complete, the turret is mated to the upper hull
using the traditional slot and key method. I found the fit to be quite snug and ultimately sanded the circumference of the mounting ring on the turret to allow it to rotate more easily. Construction of the interior and engine were next. The interior is very basic and is somewhat unnecessary as none of it is visible once the upper hull and suspension is mated together. Nonetheless, the seats, steering wheel, pedals, and shift lever were all assembled without any difficulty and left unpainted in order to speed up assembly. All of these parts are mounted to the lower floor which plays a key role in later assembly steps. The engine and radiator consists of no less than 18 parts and is an excellent representation of the 50hp, four cylinder engine on the real vehicle. Once again, unfortunately, the entire assembly is hidden once the upper hull is mated to the suspension. The two piece radiator is attached to the engine via a radiator pipe and is quite fragile; I opted to leave the radiator off until the engine and radiator are mounted to the suspension frame.
HALFWAY THERE!
At this point it’s important to note that we’re more than half way through the assembly of the model – the joining of the radiator and engine is step 12 and there are only 20 steps outlined in
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The surface detail on Pit Road’s mouldings is exemplary and was a joy to paint and lightly weather
The interior is very spartan but is almost completely hidden when the model is finished
A comprehensively detailed engine and radiator are provided but, like the cabin, little will be seen when the model’s hull is in place...
Nonetheless, the engine and radiator were fitted into the chassis as some portions of them are visible when the Crossley is viewed from below
The wheels and tyres build up from layers to form a very authentic tread pattern
AFV Edition
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FEATURE ARTICLE: PIT-ROAD IJN VICKERS CROSSLEY ARMOURED CAR MODEL 25 • Kit No. G-27
Views of the chassis showing the crisp and plentiful detail in the underbody areas; a shame so much ends up being hidden!
The whole model was base-coated with Mr Surfacer 1200 prior to the colour coat application
Prior to applying the base coat, the author used the reverse masking technique to paint the white turret band. This began by airbrushing several light coats of Tamiya XF-2 White on the turret in the general area of the band. Once dry, the band was masked off using Tamiya tape and Mr. Hobby Masking Sol to seal up any areas the tape missed
The rubber tyres were airbrushed with several light coats of Tamiya XF-69 NATO Black and the wheel hubs were painted with the aid of a circle template for a nice sharp demarcation
the instructions! Construction continued with the assembly of the suspension and drivetrain. The backbone of the model is the one piece frame which is very nicely moulded with only a slight seam line that’s easily handled with a sanding stick. The mounts for the side running boards are moulded integrally on the frame and require a bit of care during handling. The gear box, drive shaft, and rear differential were added next and all mounted positively in their appropriate keys moulded into the frame. The leaf spring suspension was added next along with the muffler assembly. The exhaust end of the muffler is moulded with a hollowed-out opening and for a little enhanced detail I made the opening a little deeper with a small round burring bit in my cordless moto-tool. The steering bar, front armoured plate, and front and rear towing shackles were added next. These were followed by the lower side armoured plates and the running boards. While not difficult to align due to some nicely moulded tabs and keys, the running boards are best left alone until the cement is fully cured. There’s a natural tendency to want to pick up the model by the running
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boards and if they’re not fully cured you’ll frustrate yourself as I did several times! The final step in assembly of the lower chassis is the addition of the front fenders. These, again, are very well engineered and feature tabs and locating pins to aid in their alignment. Headlights and running lights are added to each fender as well. The running lights are moulded in clear styrene and the headlights have clear lenses. I opted to replace both for an extra touch of detail; the headlights lenses with reflective ones from PSP models and the running lights with MV lenses. I also opted to leave off the spotlight-type lights on the lower front fender as period photos more often than not show them not installed.
FINISHING UP
Assembly wraps up with the addition of the wheels and tyres and finally mating the upper hull to the suspension. The Crossley featured solid rubber tyres with a very unique blocktype tread pattern. Pit Road have very cleverly replicated the tread pattern by using interlocking slots and keys that sandwich together. The two
front wheels feature two interlocking parts as well as the mounting hub and the dual rear wheels are made up of four interlocking parts and the hub. The result is a very convincing look without the fuss of using vinyl or rubber tyres. It should also be noted that the front wheels on the real vehicle had quite a bit of positive camber and this is successfully reproduced on the model. (Contest judges take note – not all wheels are vertical…!) With the wheels added the driver’s compartment and floor were cemented to the lower chassis and the upper hull was placed over the top of the crew compartment and the engine (such a shame!). The rear fenders were added last and the model was complete! Pit Road have produced a fine kit of the Vickers Crossley and I dare say it is one of the nicest, easiest to build kits I’ve had the pleasure of working on. While it’s definitely one of the more rare armoured cars in modern military history, I definitely enjoyed building the kit and adding it to my collection and would highly recommend it to all! •
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The instructions provide markings and colour schemes for two vehicles – one in a battleship grey hue and the other in a khaki shade. The author opted for the khaki shade, beginning somewhat of an adventure to match the colour provided in the painting and marking guide which is listed as Gunze Mr. Color C132 Earth Green
A general colour-wash was applied to panel lines, rivets, details, etc., using Mig Productions Dark Wash. Excess wash or tide marks were removed with a brush dampened with Mig Thinner for Washes
Modelspec: Pit Road IJN Vickers Crossley Armoured Car Model 25, kit No. G-27, PSP Models Ltd. White Head Light optics, no. D3524 MV Products Lenses for Models, P/ N 26 Paints, Weathering Products: Tamiya Acrylics XF-49 Khaki, XF-57 Buff, XF-3 Flat Yellow, XF-4 Yellow Green, XF-2 Flat White, XF-69 NATO Black MiG Productions Dark Wash, Thinner for Washes, various shades of MiG Pigments AK Interactive AK012 Streaking Grime, AK084 Engine Oil, White Spirit, AK086 Dark Steel Pigments The model was given several light coats of Future Floor Polish airbrushed straight from the bottle to prepare the surface for decals and subsequent weathering steps. After allowing the clear coat to dry for several days, the decals were applied with the aid of some Micro Sol
Various oil and grease stains were applied next using AK Interactive Streaking Grime and Engine Oil enamel products To finish the model up, the author painted the twin Vickers guns with a dark grey acrylic mix and once dry buffed them using AK Interactive Dark Steel pigments applied with an artist’s fibre blending stick. At this point, the kit headlight lenses were replaced with clear resin examples from PSP Models
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FEATURE ARTICLE: TRUMPETER 1:35 JAGDPANZER 38(t) HETZER STARR • Kit No. 05524
BUILD A BETTER BAITER Pt.1
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Marcus Nicholls describes the construction of Trumpeter’s 1:35 Jagdpanzer 38(t) Hetzer-Starr and the opening up of its engine bay
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he Jagdpanzer 38(t) Hetzer ‘Starr’ was a rationalised variant of the small, WW2 German tank-destroyer and just a handful of prototypes were constructed towards the end of the war. As well as the simplified design, the vehicle utilised a Tatra diesel engine in place of the Praga petrol engine of the ‘standard’ Hetzer. The main gun of the Starr was different too; in place of the 7.5cm Pak39 L/48, it used a 7.5cm PaK 39/1 recoilless gun with modified mantlet which gave the vehicle its distinctive look. It is believed that all but one Hetzer-Starr were later converted back to standard specification. There’s some debate over how many examples of this interesting variant were built – accounts vary from ten to fourteen – and also how many received the diesel engine or were fitted with the standard petrol unit, but one thing is certain; its combat history was limited. Several Hetzer-Starr took part in the suppression of the May 1945 Prague uprising, but other action is patchy.
STARR IN 1:35
Trumpeter’s kit was issued a couple of years ago and I have been meaning to do something with it ever since! It’s a relatively simple model but it does have a couple of treasures hidden in the box, namely a very complete engine and bay, plus individual, articulated track links. The inclusion of an engine is very welcome, so it’s a little odd that the access hatch is moulded integrally with the upper hull, in the closed position. It seems a crime to hide the engine in this way so my immediate thought was to open it up, which required a taking a knife to the upper hull. Thankfully, the hatch has straight sides, so it came free after several strokes with a Swann-Morton No.10a blade, taking great care not to damage the hull or the hatch panel. Some modifications to the resultant hatch and its ventilator dome will be needed, opening up its inner section to full height. The hatch’s inner face will be very much on show on the finished model so a little extra time was spent cleaning up the ejector pin marks, location pins etc., and filling the seams. In the next issue of MiM AFV edition I will continue with this project, maybe adding some cabling to the engine bay and some other detail items. •
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FEATURE ARTICLE: TRUMPETER 1:35 JAGDPANZER 38(t) HETZER STARR • Kit No. 05524
The angles of the lower hull didn’t quite match up with those of the rear panel
Constant checking is needed to ensure the correct amount of plastic is cut away
The Hetzer’s suspension is gratifying simple, reflected in the kit parts
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To remedy the mismatch, the inner edges of the rear plate were trimmed using a CMK razor saw
Finally, the rear plate can be mated and cemented to the edges of the hull tub
The road-wheel suspension bases are a perfect fit and just require a quick wipe of liquid cement to fix in place
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The final-drive housings are well detailed and build up from several parts
Before the assembled housings are cemented in place, hull-side extension pieces must be added
The final-drives simply fix directly to the hull side and the drive-sprockets are a press fit onto the stub-axles
AFV Edition
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FEATURE ARTICLE: TRUMPETER 1:35 JAGDPANZER 38(t) HETZER STARR • Kit No. 05524
The leaf spring units attach directly to the suspension base units, but need a little clean-up first
Using a file with a flat face, the mould seam was gently filed away
It takes a while to remove all the seams but the result is worth it
The kit includes a beautifully detailed Tatra diesel engine (assuming it’s accurate) but there’s no way of showing it off as its access hatch is moulded shut. So, the hatch was carefully sliced out of the upper hull moulding using a sharp scalpel blade
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Each cleaned-up spring unit mounts onto the two pegs on each suspension base
The hatch and new aperture were cleaned up with files and sanding sticks
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The four inner segments were snapped out, then the edges sanded until tidy The hatch features a domed ventilation box which needs opening up, so the inner panel was scored cross-ways The ventilator box was cemented to the newly freed-up hatch
The inner edges were filled with liquidised putty and sanded flush when hard
Here we see the newly made hatch aperture in the upper hull, plus the hatch and lower hull with engine bay being test-fitted
The front face of the engine firewall; it carries detail although there’s no fighting compartment interior detail in the kit. But it’s a good start for superdetailers
Trumpeter provide a photo-etched brass grille for the edges of the box and this was fix in place with cyanoacrylate glue
This is the engine bay provided in the kit, part way through assembly. The detail is excellent and it’s a shame to hide it
The engine bay’s structure is remarkably comprehensive and just requires a little liquified putty to conceal the joins
Views of the engine as is comes in the kit. Detail is very good and just requires a few cables, plus a creative paint job
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FEATURE ARTICLE: TRUMPETER 1:35 JAGDPANZER 38(t) HETZER STARR • Kit No. 05524
The newly opened up engine access hatch is quite large and shows off the engine in its bay very well
Once it has been dry-assembled and adjusted for best fit, the engine and bay can be lifted out of the hull and painted/weathered
Trumpeter even include a replica of the Hetzer’s radiator for the inner face of the rear plate
Apart from the prominent step in the armour of the upper/rear hull, the quickest way to identify a Hetzer Starr is the narrow mantlet of its 7.5cm Pak-39 main gun, well depicted in the kit
The gun in the kit elevates/depresses only, there’s no traverse
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The gun is held in place purely by the friction created in its trunions when the inner mantlet is cemented to the hull – simple but effective
To avoid the gun being fixed at one angle, it’s essential to apply only small amounts of cement around the edge of the inner mantlet
The outer mantlet is then fixed in place; it looks very different to the standard Hetzer ‘saukopf’ mantlet
Finally, the barrel can be cemented in place, taking care to keep it straight
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FEATURE ARTICLE: 1:35 LEADWARRIOR Goliath F-400 • Kit No. LW35211
DREIRAD ON MY WAGON Domingo Hernandez describes the painting and weathering of Leadwarrior’s quirky 1:35 1938 Goliath-Werke Borgward F-400 utility vehicle
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eadwarrior’s Goliath kit stands out for its clean castings and detail and despite being in resin, it’s easy to work with. The only negative point was a small imperfection on the side of the engine housing, but I managed to repair it with a little black cyano and a bit of sandpaper as you can see in the photos. Photos of the assembled model gives a view of the clean model and above all how easy that is. To begin the painting process, I focused on the chassis and applied three coats of acrylic Tamiya; the first, straight XF-63 German Grey, the second mixed with XF-75 and lastly a layer in certain areas with a bit of XF-78 added to the mix. I applied the same mixtures to the cabin and the load deck, but with a little more light grey added to the mix. Although it would be largely hidden once the model was complete, I wanted to add some colour to the chassis, so using Vallejo
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acrylics, I applied a little weathering to the engine, transmission and exhaust. The weathering process started with oil paints, using light colours to create variations in tone and dark colours to accentuate certain areas such as panel lines and areas of dirt build-up. You can see the light areas and dark areas on the door. A bit of extra depth was added to the model with localised washes using dark-coloured by AK Interactive paints in readiness for the next step; chipping. This was achieved with Vallejo 822 German Camouflage Black Brown, first applied with finetipped brush in areas of more wear and tear and also drybrushed on in other areas to achieve a general worn effect. This helped to create the effect of worn paint and the look of an abandoned vehicle as originally intended. ‘Mapping’ is another technique that can offer some attractive effects on
specific areas of the model. Small patches of a pale grey background colour are first applied and over that, a darker colour is then applied, staying within the edges of the pale grey, creating a threedimensional effect. To simulate the appearance of an abandoned, dusty finish, Tamiya Enamel XF-52 Flat Earth was airbrushed on, taking care to not cover all the previous work. A clean brush was then dipped into Tamiya X-20 enamel thinner and used to partially removed some of the enamel, forming accumulations in recessed areas.
MINIATURE DIORAMIC SCENE
Using a photo frame, I prepared a small, very simple scene to show off the Borgward. The groundwork area was built up with expanded polystyrene, sealed it with white glue to avoid leaks and edged with Evergreen plastic card
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Some slight casting irregularities was filled with black cyanoacrylate filler, applied with a cocktail stick
The edge of the cabin was now fixed; this was the only area of the kit that required repair
Once cured, the excess filler was sanded flush with a Flex-I-File sanding stick
The completed model, in its three main sub-assemblies
Leadwarrior’s little Borgward is full of character and the kit is well detailed
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02/07/2014 11:28
FEATURE ARTICLE: 1:35 LEADWARRIOR Goliath F-400 • Kit No. LW35211
Tamiya XF-63 German Grey, XF-75 IJN Grey and XF-78 Wooden Deck Tan were mixed for the varying tones of grey used on the Borgward’s chassis, cabin and cargo deck
The popular and easy to use Vallejo range of acrylic paints were employed to add colour variations to the chassis, exhaust system and drivetrain
cut into strips, to build up its height. To form the cobblestone surface, I used a pre-made resin sheet that I had in my collection, cutting off one corner to form a recessed area that would be piled up with building rubble later on. On the opposite corner, I glued on a row of curbstones made from cork, in preparation for a section of pavement, also made from cork. For the vertical element of the scene, I used a lamp post from a Miniart set. I began painting with acrylic grey from Vallejo, then applied pigments and colourwashes to build up the varying colours and tones of a typical street scene. Other elements such as a rusty pipeline poking up through the rubble were added, its trickle of water simulated with a piece of clear stretched-sprue and gloss varnish. A sheet of rough fabric was made from Tamiya putty and painted blue to add some colour-contrast to the scene. The last element to add to the scene was the figure. He comes from a Miniart set (with a Hornet head) and was painted with acrylics. It’s not always essential to add loads of extras and figures to create an effective scene, and this simple diorama shows off Leadwarrior’s lovely little resin kit quite effectively. •
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Colour-washes, mixed from oil paints and thinned with white (mineral) spirit were used as ‘stains’ to highlight and enhance the surface detail cast into the model parts
This close-up of the door reveals the layers of multi-tonal paint effects applied by the author to impart it with a visually engaging appearance, rather than just plain grey
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Commercially available, pre-mixed colour washes (based on enamel paints diluted with mineral spirit) were used to further enhance the model’s form and detail; no plain panzer grey here!
The layers of accumulated dust along the Borgward’s lower edges were simulated with Tamiya Enamel XF-52, airbrushed on
The XF-52 was then streaked with a brush moistened with enamel thinner, using downward strokes
The cargo deck’s dusty, crusty look was produced with the help of Mig Productions pigments
Expended polystyrene foam formed the core of the display base
The ‘groundwork’ was constructed using a section of cast resin cobblestone
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02/07/2014 11:29
FEATURE ARTICLE: 1:35 LEADWARRIOR Goliath F-400 • Kit No. LW35211
Cork sheet, cut into blocks, was used to create the curbstones; tweezers were used to manipulate the blocks, which were fixed in place with PVA ‘white’ glue
Vallejo grey acrylics were used to create the basic colours of the stone road surface
Modelling pigments were applied to build up a realistically dusty appearance, fixed with Tamiya X-20A acrylic thinner
The broken water pipe gushes simulate water, created with a piece of stretched clear sprue
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The lamp-post adds a vital touch of ‘vertical’ detail; it comes from a MiniArt set
The layers of paint and pigments create a very convincing effect, just ready for the vehicle and figure
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The rust effect on the broken water main was created with Lifecolor paints
Miniature dried leaves (die-cut paper) were added one by one with tweezers The painting of the figure began with the face and hands
Leadwarrior kits are available direct from; www.leadwarrior.com
Civilian clothes for this fellow
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KIT PREVIEW: TAMIYA WW1 BRITISH TANK MK.IV MALE • Kit No. 30057
ALL ABOARD THE RHOMBUS!
Tamiya’s all-new 1:35 Mk.IV ‘Male’ tank
W
ith the 100th anniversary of the start of the First World War being commemorated this August, model kit manufacturers are turning their attention to the vehicles that took part in the conflict. Tamiya are one of these companies and even though the first tanks didn’t appear on the battlefield until 1917, they have created an all-new 1:35 kit of the British Mk.IV ‘Male’ to pay tribute to the crews, the conflict and the technology in 2014. The kit will be the first WW1 subject kitted by Tamiya and the company’s researchers travelled to Britain to measure up existing examples of the vehicle and to photograph it extensively. The result is a spectacular rendering of this iconic machine, capturing its bulky outline perfect and also its boilerplate surface detail consisting of hundreds of rivets. One slight oddity is the addition of a small electric motor to propel the model in a straight line forwards, via a set of fully articulated tracks. Upon its announcement, this feature caused a little controversy, some modellers seeming to think it would make the kit toy-like. But in reality, it’s a finely detailed, scale model that just happens to come with a motor (although our pre-production
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review sample came without it) and it can be completed to a high standard, bypassing the mechanical additions if so desired. The model is fairly straightforward to build and the basic structure can be completed in a couple of days; it consists of flat panels just like the real tank and the kit parts are engineered to allow for easy alignment. As mentioned, the review model came without the motor/gearbox and associated battery box and wires and these components are incorporated into the hull as assembly proceeds. To allow the batteries (two AA cells) to be changed, the gun sponsons are designed to be removable from the hull via a system of polycaps; the battery box is held in place with Velcro pads. If, like me, you do not intend to use the motorisation system, the sponsons can be cemented in place and the slight gaps around their edges sealed up for a more scale-like result. Likewise, the main hull roof is also a pulloff item to allow access to the interior and this is best cemented in place if you’re going for a static display option. Unlike more modern tanks which feature large road wheels, the Mk.IV utilised a simple running gear of twenty-six rollers along the
lower portion of the side panels of two patterns. The kit replicates this feature and even though they will be completely hidden when complete, both types of roller are provided. The two patterns do not simply alternate along the hull; there’s a specific sequence to be followed, outlined clearly in the instructions. The gun sponsons feature detailed replicas of the 6-pounder guns that equipped the ‘Male’ version of the tank (the ‘Female’ was fitted with machine guns) and these can be at least partially observed on the finished model thanks to individually moulded crew doors on rear face of each sponson. Other than these, there is no further internal detailing in the kit. As you’d expect, Tamiya’s Mk.IV is finely detailed and well researched and will build up into an impressive replica of this historic vehicle. The motorisation feature is a slightly unusual addition and not to most modellers’ tastes, but that aside, it’s very welcome addition to the Military Miniatures Series. To accompany the Mk.IV, Tamiya has created a set of five British WW1 infantry figures, three with Lee-Enfield rifles, an officer with a Webley revolver and a machine gunner firing a Lewis gun. MN •
Military Illustrated Modeller - August 2014
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Modelspec: SCALE: 1:35 MATERIALS: IM, PC, WS Availability; www.hobbyco.net MiM OPINION? A superb addition to Tamiya’s 1:35 series; don’t worry about the motorisation if that’s not your thing, it’s still a fine scale model.
Right; here we see Tamiya’s kit more than halfway through assembly for a detailed article in the August issue of Tamiya Model Magazine. The full production kit will be moulded in sandcoloured polystyrene
A Tamiya factory-photo showing the gear-train that will drive the rear sprockets and track on the full-production kit
Hull rear plate showing access door aperture
The tracks are a snap-together design that allows full articulation. A small moulding pip just needs sanding down on the centre of each tread face
Hull roof can be lifted off to gain access to the inner hull
Running gear consists of tiny rollers that require some assembly
Hull external detail is exemplary
‘Scale’ moulded drive sprockets are included
The hull side, with its characteristic boiler plate surface
AFV Edition
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BOOK REVIEWS DUEL IN THE MIST 3, THE LEIBSTANDARTE DURING THE ARDENNES OFFENSIVE TIMM HAASLER, SIMON VOSTERS, HANS WEBER www.panzerwrecks.com The ‘Duel in the Mist’ series is on its third volume now – and also its second publisher, Panzerwrecks – who are well known for their comprehensive series of very modeller-friendly titles on destroyed and abandoned tanks of the Second World War. ‘Duel In The Mist’ is a far more focused in its subject; the Battle of the Bulge and specifically the Kampfgruppe Peiper’s role in the campaign, scrutinised with near-forensic levels of analysis. In this third tome, the authors look at the later operations of the Kampfgruppe, when the unit was trapped in the area of La Gleize, Stoumont and Cheneux. By re-examining photographs and using first-hand testimony, they attempt to offer the reader the clearest possible view of the events that took place during the winter of 1944, in the brutally cold forests of the Ardennes. As well as providing an engaging read, the book offers the modeller plenty of ideas and inspiration for their model projects, and dioramas in particular, via the use of large, clear wartime photographs; Panthers and Tiger IIs are, of course, the main subjects. A very detailed, blow-by-blow account and another excellent resource for the study of the Battle of the Bulge. Well worth adding to your reference library. MN Available now from www.panzerwrecks.com
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Military Illustrated Modeller - August 2014
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MODELLING REFERENCES: US M5A1 LIGHT TANK AND HOWITZER MOTOR CARRIAGE IN ACTION
THE US M8 AND M5A1 IN NORMANDY Details and diorama ideas for two popular WW2 Allied model subjects, the M8 HMC and M5A1
Main image, below: “Hit them again and again” is the order of the day as three tanks of the 2nd (Heavy) US Armored Division open fire as part of the artillery preparation before the attack on enemy territory near Barenton, lower Normandy, in August 1944. In the foreground is a 75mm Howitzer Motor Carriage M8 nicknamed ‘Laxative’ and it is equipped with a ‘Culin hedgerow cutter’. In the background is an M4 76(W) Sherman tank (part of G Co, 3rd Bn of the 66th or 67th Armored Regt) and in the background is another 75mm Howitzer Motor Carriage M8; it has just fired a shell and we can see its plume of smoke. We can also see four GIs in front of this vehicle supplying a mortar. They are firing on Kampfgruppe Hausser of the Panzer Lehr and Schlee of Kampfgruppe 275. Infanterie-Division Right: An M5A1 Stuart tank with a ‘Culin’ device takes a test drive in midJuly to demonstrate to Lt.Gen Bradley the effectiveness of its hedgerow cutter for crossing the Normandy bocage. The device was the brainchild of Sergeant Curtis G. Culin III of the 102nd Cavalry Reconnaissance, a New Yorker, twenty-nine years old when he came up with the idea. It had sturdy steel teeth cut from abandoned beach defences, welded to a metal bar. Orders were given for its use in Operation Cobra, 25th-31st July 1944 and sixty-percent of the tanks were equipped with the Culin device, but for tactical surprise, the Lt.Gen Bradley prohibited their use before action began
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Left: A US M5A1 Light Tank named ‘Concrete’ of Charlie Co, Light Tank Bn, 2nd Armored Division – part of a convoy passing through La Tuilerie, a hamlet near Tronquay – turns off the GC73 Balleroy road via Castillon and takes the N172 road to Saint-Lô via Vaubadon. The Policeman is part of the MP Platoon of the 2nd Armored Div. Note the pile of stowage on the vehicle’s rear hull and the .30cal MG on the turret roof Main image, below: An excellent study of 75mm Howitzer Motor Carriage M8 ‘Laxative’ again, being cleaned, replenished with ammunition and given general maintenance. Note the stowage around the turret and the driver’s helmet next to the pile of ammunition. On the M4 Sherman in the background we can just see an air ID panel on the rear deck. This is a diorama in the making!
AFV Edition
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ISSUE No.040 August 2014
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Marcus Nicholls tackles the new 1:32 scale F-104G from Italeri.
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MPM’s 1:72 Ki-21 Sally by Harvey Low.
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ROTARY PANTHER
Leo Stevenson builds HK Models huge 1:32 B-17G Flying Fortress
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THE GORKY AUTOMOBILE PLANT’S ARMOURED JEEP
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ENTWICKLUNGSFAHRZEUG!
Trumpeter’s 1:35 E-10 experimental tank destroyer and Hetzer relacement © ADH Publishing 2014
...AND MORE! AFV Edition
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SIGN OFF – FINAL THOUGHTS FROM THE EDITOR
DIORAMAS YOU
MUST BUILD
BEFORE YOU DIE... DUMPED BY THE ROADSIDE
T
his well known photo was taken on June 20th 1944 during the Normandy campaign and shows an abandoned 4.7cm Pak(t) Panzer Kampfwagen 35R (f) on the roadside to the east of Littry, a hamlet of the town of Le Molay-Littry in the Calvados region of Normandy. The vehicle is real hybrid, mounting a Czech-built anti-tank gun on a French-built Renault tank chassis, one of the incredible ‘DIY’ vehicles created by the mechanics of the German 21st Panzer-Division ‘Becker’ using tanks recovered after the 1940 campaign in France and Skoda guns from the campaign in Czechoslokia at the start of the conflict. The great news is that a 1:35 kit exists of this interesting machine, courtesy of Brach Model of Italy (above right, kit No.BM081). It’s in resin and is available from www.brachmodel.it . Just add a section of street, some GIs and a roadside chapel!
[email protected] See you again next time!
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