modeller military illustrated
£6.50 - December’14 (issue 044)
VISIONS IN THE NIGHT SD.KFZ.234/4 AND SWS ‘UHU’ INFRARED SYSTEM IN 1:35
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AFV edition
Euro Militaire 2014 photo-report • H39 ‘Stuka zu Fuss’ • Swedish S-Tank • and more…
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NEW in the ‘HOW TO BUILD...’ series ORDER NOW ‘How To Build The Leopard Family In 1:35’ is a comprehensive guide to modelling this famous vehicle in its many forms. From battle tanks to recovery vehicles, homeland protectors, to battle-hardened veterans, you’ll find much to enjoy and inspire within the pages of this exciting new book. Along with the work of the author, you will also find guest features from Brett Green, Marcel Jussen and John Murphy, who’s combined talents help tell the story of the seven models, including the Leopard 1A3, 2A4NL, 2A5, AEV, 2A6 and as a specially extended section, the incredible Canadian, C2 MEXAS. Each of the chapters tells the story of a model using in-depth construction and painting guides, as well as hints and tips on detailing, conversions, sculpting and figure painting. Add to that some exclusive, full-sized reference material and the reasons to add this book to your library, are there for all to see.
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Contents
modeller military illustrated
ISSUE No.044 December 2014
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NEWS
Military model product news
EURO MILITAIRE 2014
MiM visits the famous Euro Militaire show in Folkestone, UK
14 ORDNANCE DEPOT
New and recent accessory sets and modelling materials
16 SCHWERER PANZERSPÄHWAGEN
Angus Creighton builds AFV Club’s 1:35 Sd.Kfz.232 heavy armoured car with tweaks of his own
22 THORNYCROFT TYPE J LORRY IN 54MM Tommy’s War’s first vehicle kit
24 STUKA ZU FRANCE
Building and improving Bronco’s 1:35 28cm sWurfgerät 40 auf G.W.H39
24
30 NIGHT SHIFT
A pair of Panzerwaffe ’46 pair of night hunting vehicles
40 LOW RIDER
Upgrading Trumpeter’s 1:35 Swedish S103C kit with new tracks and fence armour
46 COLD WAR CARRIER
OKB Grigorov’s 1:72 AT-T Artillery Tractor with some interesting cargo
52 RETURN TO SENDER
Adding details to MiniArt’s 1:35 scale Su-76M kit
57 CRUSADER GUN TRACTOR MK.I
An interesting conversion on the Crusader tank, the Gun Tractor Mk.I
58 TOP BRASS TRANSPORT
52
Tamiya’s new 1:35 Toyota Model AB Phaeton staff car
60 BOOK REVIEW
Military model-related book review
62 AUSTIN CHAMP
The civilian version of a British Army utility vehicle
66 SIGN OFF
Dioramas to build before you die…
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News NEWS JUST IN...
TAMIYA
1:35 JAGDPANZER IV L/70 LANG (V)
AFV CLUB
The newest model to join Tamiya’s 1:35 armour series is a newly-tooled kit of the Jagdpanzer IV L/70 Lang. Tamiya’s new release depicts a vehicle manufactured after September 1944, when the use of zimmerit was discontinued. It comes with two figures and will include three markingsoptions to depict western front (including Battle of the Bulge) and eastern front vehicles. www.hobbyco.net
TAMIYA
1:48 BRITISH ARMORED SCOUT CAR ‘DINGO’ MK.II
The latest addition to the 1:48 Military Miniature Series depicts the British ‘Dingo’ Mk.II armoured scout car. The model can be built with its folding roof in open or closed positions and comes with driver and commander figures. One markings-option is included with the kit, allowing the depiction of a vehicle on the Western Front. www.hobbyco.net
NEW FROM TAMIYA 1:35 JAPANESE ARMY FIGURE SET
This new set includes four figures, depicting two officers seated at a table and two standing infantrymen, all in realistic poses and wearing the Type 98 uniform, first introduced by the Japanese army in 1938. A range of accessories, such as the army-issue katana sword, are recreated in fine detail. Also comes with barrels, storage boxes and Japanese-style hot water bottles. Rank insignia decals are also included. www.hobbyco.net
1:35 M24 Chaffee Light Tank, first Indochina War 1:35 Churchill AVRE with Snake Launcher Churchill TLC Type A w/carpet laying device pocketbond.co.uk
NEW FROM DING-HAO 1:35 SPECIAL EDITIONS
Ding-Hao is a new line that uses AFV Club injection mouldings with extra parts to create these special editions. On the way is a 1:35 Büssing NAG L4500S with EMC sea mines and bonus resin figure, T-34/85 Factory 174 with bedspring armour and a Churchill 3-inch gun carrier with 25+25 snake pipes and bonus resin figure. www.pocketbond.co.uk
NEW FROM BRACH MODEL 1:35 M13/40, M14/41
www.eduard.com
4
1:24 AEC Militant Mk1 6x6 Gun Tractor kitformservices.com
MINIART
1:35 GAZ-03-30 Mod.1938 creativemodels.co.uk
RAUPEN MODEL
1:35 JGSDF Type 10 workable tracks without rubber-block 1:35 JGSDF Type 10 workable tracks w/rubber-pad hlj.com
TAKOM
1:35 St Chamond late-type 1:35 Mark IV Male Tadpole w/rear mortar 1:35 Mark IV workable tracks (snap-together) pocketbond.co.uk
TAMIYA
1:35 Char B1 bis w/ electric motor 1:35 Tamiya/Italeri P40 Italian tank hobbyco.net
TAMIYA
1:35 Tamiya/Asuka Sherman VC Firefly w/figures hobbyco.net
NEW FROM EDUARD 1:35 PHOTO-ETCHED PARTS FOR TAMIYA NASHORN
New from Eduard is a set of brass details for Tamiya’s newtool Nashorn kit in 1:35. Ammo lockers, internal stowage and external pioneer tools are amongst the features. Fine detail, precisely formed parts and excellent instructions are plus points.
KIT FORM SERVICES
Newly released from this Italian kit maker is a full resin production of the Carro Armato M13/40 3°series (BM115) and the Carro Armato M14/41 1°series (BM116), both kits coming with photo-etched, aluminium barrel and decals. Also in production are engine sets for the M13/40 and M14/41, plus interior sets for the models. www.brachmodel.it
THIS MONTH IN TAMIYA MODEL MAGAZINE... TAMIYA 1:35 SIMCA 5
This month’s edition of Tamiya Model Magazine (December, No.230) features Tamiya’s 1:35 Simca 5 staff car. Order now at; www.tamiyamodelmagazine.com
Military Illustrated Modeller - December 2014
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NEWS EXTRA: MODEL SHOW REPORT - EURO MILITAIRE ‘14 FOLKESTONE UK
EURO
MILITAIRE 2014 MiM visits the famous Euro Militaire show in Folkestone, UK
O
nce again, the Kent coastal town of Folkestone played host to this well known event, the competition area of which features individual AFVs models (tanks, armoured cars), figures and dioramas in abundance. The venue’s proximity to the Channel Tunnel makes it easy for European visitors to visit, making it a very international event, a very welcome feature. The traders’ hall seemed reasonably healthy and while the bigger names (Accurate Armour, Resicast) are long gone from this event, the model dealers who were present seemed to be doing well. The exciting mix of three main elements; world-class models in the competition area, the variety of vendors and the get-together of friends makes this event unmissable and well worth adding to the calender each year. Here’s a photo-compilation of some of the models that caught our eye, arranged in no particular order! •
Small but elegant; this scene proves that less an indeed be more sometimes
A Stug.III ausf.B in a subtle panzergrau finish. An overall film of dust has lightened the paint in a convincing manner
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A small scene but a very poignant one, as a US Jeep drives past injured prisoners
A very dramatic scene with a smashed Flak43 and torn up section of railway track
A characterful dockside diorama, utilising Tamiya’s 1:35 ‘Tilly’ truck
An tense Normandy scene with a knocked-out Renault R35 tank
A very neatly executed scene featuring a Marder III ausf.H
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NEWS EXTRA: MODEL SHOW REPORT - EURO MILITAIRE ‘14 FOLKESTONE UK
A very interesting early armoured car; note the solid tyres
A 1:35 C15TA armoured car in South East Asia
One of the most eye-catching dioramas at this year’s show was this action-filled scene of three SAS Jeeps blasting through the desert
FT-17 radio-carrier version; an ungainly but interesting version of this early tank
An evocative scene of refugees passing a parked-up halftrack
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This Imperial Japanese Navy Type 2 (Ka-Mi) amphibious tank sports a visually engaging shaded finish
This amazing desert scene features a host of figures Afrikakorps figures as well as a Pz.I and an Sd.Kfz.254 Saurer vehicle
Some interesting colour contrasts on this 1:35 Nashorn tank destroyer
1:35 Opel Blitz in an effective overall grey. The rolled up tarpaulin cover adds a convincing extra touch of detail
This 1:35 Diamond T 969 wrecker truck has plenty going on
An excellent example of the British WW1 Mk.IV ‘Male’ tank
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NEWS EXTRA: MODEL SHOW REPORT - EURO MILITAIRE ‘14 FOLKESTONE UK
Some brilliant rust effects were seen on this closed-up Tamiya 1:35 M26
A Russian BTR armoured car has a near perfect weathering finish
Subtle weathering on this 1:35 Swedish Strv.122 which featured in the August 2012 issue of MiM
We’re not sure what the vehicle is, but the model was beautifully well executed
Restrained and realistic three-colour camouflage on this 1:35 Sturmgeschutz III really brings the model to life
A beautifully presented Freikorps armoured car from the inter-war period
Extremely convincing weathering was in evidence on this M1A1 Abrams
An impressive early-war diorama centred on a burnt-out Mk.VI Light Tank
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Excellent large-scale WW1 British officer
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NEWS EXTRA: MODEL SHOW REPORT - EURO MILITAIRE ‘14 FOLKESTONE UK
Busts and large scale figures seemed more popular than ever, with some very creative paintwork. Here are some of our favourite examples
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ORDNANCE DEPOT New and recently issued kits and accessory sets for armour modelling projects
WILDER, USA
PAINT SETS
A
dam Wilder is a well known modeller whose incredible armour models have appeared in Military Illustrated Modeller Magazine and many other publications. He is considered to be one of the best modellers in the world and he now has a range of finishing products that will aid other modellers in achieving realistic results. So far we have a range of colour-washes, filters, weathering powders and textured pastes for the creation of mud effects. Also in the product range is soldering flux, metal track rusting fluid and an expanding line-up of drytransfer decals for armoured vehicles. We look forward to more interesting products from Mr Wilder! MN GUNPOWDER LINE ● Black (GP02) ● Dry Russian Earth (GP04) ● Brown Russian Earth (GP06) ● Dry European Mud (GP08) ● European Road Clay (GP10) ● Old Grease (GP11) ● Aged Rust (GP12) ● Light Rust (GP15) ● Street Dust (GP20) ● Bright Steel (GP26) TEXTURED EARTH ● Fine Dark Russian (TE01) ● Fine Dark Brown (TE03) ● Stony Dark Brown (TE04) ● Stony Red Desert (TE10)
● ●
Stony Light Europe (TE12) Textured Snow! (SN01)
NITROLINE ● Deep Shadow Wash (NL02) ● Brown Shadow Wash (NL03) ● Old Rust Effect (NL05) ● Light Rust Effect (NL08) ● Light Grey Blue Filter (NL09) ● Vibrant Blue Filter (NL10) ● Sharp Red Filter (NL15) ● Dark Maroon Filter (NL16) ● Brown Rust speckling effect (NL27) ● Ochre Rust speckling effect (NL28) ● Brown Mud Spatter speckling effect (NL029) ● Grey Dirt Spatter (NL30)
Medium Grey Filter for panzer grey (NL33) Quick Rust for metal tracks (QR01) ● Soldering Flux (SF01) ● ●
DRY TRANSFERS ● WWII German crosses for vehicles variant 1 (HDF-DT-3501) ● WWII German factory markings for vehicles variant 1 (HDF-DT-3503) ● WWII German numbers for vehicles variant 1 white (HDF-DT-3504) ● WWII German numbers for vehicles variant 1 outline (HDF-DT-3506)
TOMMY’S WAR, UK 54MM FIGURE SETS, 1:10 BUSTS
T
op British WW1 specialist ‘Tommy’s War’ have an everexpanding line of resin figures in 54mm, which approximates to 1:32, so a little too large to use with the Tamiya and Takom tanks etc., but superb on their own or with TW’s own accessories. Casting quality is sublime and the sculpting is natural and full of character. With the First World War modelling subjects very much in people’s minds, these figures are the ideal way to express an interest in the subject, in miniature form. Also new from Tommy’s War are two busts in 1:10 representing a Corporal of the East African Mounted Rifles 1915 and a Captain of the 2nd Bn South Wales Borderers, 1914. Detail here is fantastic and will allow the enthusiastic figure painter a lot of scope for introducing character and charisma. MN 54MM ● Captain, 2nd Bn Royal Welsh Fusiliers, Ploegsteert Wood 1915 (TW54013) ● Sergeant, 2nd Bn Royal Welsh Fusiliers, Ploegsteert Wood 1915 (TW54013) ● Private, 11th Bn Australian Imperial Force, Gallipoli 1915 (TW54015) ● Corporal, 1st Bn London Irish Rifles, Loos 1915 (TW54023) ● Private, 1/7th Bn Lancashire Fusiliers,Cape Helles 1915 (TW54024) Trooper, 9th (Queen’s Royal) Lancers, Elouges 1914 (TW54C01) 1:10 ● Corporal, East African Mounted Rifles, Longido West 1915 (TW10B01) ● Captain, 2nd Bn South Wales Borderers, Tsingtao 1914 (TW10B02)
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LIFECOLOR, ITALY PAINT SETS
T
hese two sets are very interesting indeed, as they help the modeller create areas of moss, lichen and algae as you’d get on boat hull sides, sea/ riverside docks, old masonry and brick walls, fountains and another damp, dark areas of landscape. Each set contains various powders and granules in differing colours plus two fixing fluids which is applied to the area to be treated first and the powders then sprinkled on. These have a lot of potential for dockside dioramas, old buildings and large-scale naval subjects. MN ● ●
Powder & Color Set Lichens & Moss (SPG06) Powder & Color Set Algae (SPG07)
TRUMPETER, CHINA MODELLING TOOL SETS
T
rumpeter’s ‘Master Tools’ product line offers some specialised equipment and materials for scale modellers. The latest to arrive is a set of clamps with rounded inner faces to secure items with rounded cross-sections while the glue dries, plus rubber band clips for use when closing up kit gun barrel halves and aircraft wings, rubber band spacers to lift the band off the model’s surface to prevent liquid cement capillary ‘creep’ plus model paint bottle opener. Very useful! Also on release is a pack of five sheets of sanding film of varying grit-grades. MN Model Kit Tool Set (09951) ● Sandpaper, X5 sheets; 600, 800, 1000, 1500, 2000 (09950) ●
WHERE TO BUY? WILDER, LIFECOLOR; TOMMY’S WAR; TRUMPETER;
www.airbrushes.com www.tommyswar.co.uk www.pocketbond.co.uk
AFV Edition
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FEATURE ARTICLE: AFV CLUB SD.KFZ.232 (8-RAD) EARLY TYPE • Kit No. AF35232
SCHWERER PANZERSPÄHWAGEN This issue, Angus Creighton completes AFV Club’s 1:35 Sd.Kfz.232 heavy armoured car and of course, adds a few small tweaks of his own...
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here are few vehicles that visually embody the 1939 German war machine more than the eight wheeled Sd.Kfz.232 with its angular hull and huge frame antenna perched above. Indeed, its unique design would not seem incongruous in a modern sci-fi film. Over 600 examples were produced between 1936 and 1943 with production ending as the new Sd.Kfz.234 series entered production. The example modelled here represents an early version, lacking the distinctive spaced armour at the front, splash-guards protecting the front hatch and turret and tubular frame protectors over the sidelights and turning indicators. Later versions would be fitted with armoured visors similar to those mounted on Sd.Kfz.251 halftracks and the frame antenna would disappear as the ‘crows-foot’ antenna was developed.
Starting off
Construction commences with the chassis and suspension – probably the most daunting part of the build. The ‘zed’ section chassis is cleverly moulded as a single part and housed in a separate clear plastic blister to save any damage in transit. I was concerned that each of the eight wheels sat on the ground correctly, so I was careful to ensure all suspension parts moved after assembly to enable the wheel height to be adjusted later in the build. The wheels can be turned but remember that the ‘232 featured ‘all-wheel-steering’ and that the front and rear wheels steer more than the inner two wheels. Before fixing the swinging arms to their final height, the chassis can be was glued to the lower hull. I sprayed the chassis before fitting it to the hull as I doubted I could access the inner recesses with the airbrush after assembly. The wheel height was then adjusted and locked in place by fitting the four leaf springs (the ends of the springs may need to be cut down to suit the swinging arm position). Finally a little liquid plastic glue in the suspension joints completes the assembly. The inside of the hull is delicately detailed and would make an excellent base should the builder wish to add his or her own fittings. Missing are the ammo storage racks, radios, engine and radiators. Included are the seats, gear levers, steering wheels and instrument panels. Just enough is visible through the turret and hull hatches to look busy and it is not apparent that fittings are missing. The upper hull is supplied in two parts, split just in front of the cooling louvre as seen on the original vehicle. It is easier to glue the two parts together before installing the upper hull, but remember not to fill the resulting join line as this should be visible once the model is complete.
Engine deck vent
The louvre on the engine deck is supplied as a single part with the blades of the louvre closed. To add a little interest, I remade the blades in plastic card and mounted them slightly open. I also added a very crude radiator inside using plastic card and nylon mesh. One can just catch a glimpse through the louvres and prevents the interior looking too empty. The original hull was constructed using facehardened armour plates, welded together. Some of these weld seams are suggested in the kit, but for consistency, are best reworked in whatever method you prefer. I still use a pyrogravure to melt the plastic, all the time trying to keep the weld bead as small as possible. Note that the hull roof was bolted on, so a join line should be visible round the edge. The hinged vision ports are all supplied as
AFV Edition
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FEATURE ARTICLE: AFV CLUB SD.KFZ.232 (8-RAD) EARLY TYPE • Kit No. AF35232
Close-up view showing one of the suspension and drive-shaft units
The chassis was pre-painted in panzergrau as some areas would be hard to reach with the airbrush after assembly
Interior view of the turret with some additional details added
separate parts, as are the wonderfully thin rain gutters. Any ports you intend to fit open are best installed after painting. The lifting lugs are provided in both plastic and as photoetched parts; I felt the plastic looked a better scale thickness. Check your reference as these lugs were either fitted vertically as seen on the finished model here, or rotated 90 degrees. My research suggests that very early examples of the ‘232 appear to have them installed vertically. Moving to the fenders, these are very beautifully moulded, with fine rivet detail and are extremely thin. There is a subtle mould seam that runs round the top edge of each fender. Although barely visible on the unpainted part, it will pick up any drybrushing later in the build so is best removed now. The fenders were a welded assembly on the original vehicle so tiny weld beads should be added. The pattern of the mudflaps provided in the kit can be seen on majority of ‘231s and ‘232s, but not on all early vehicles. Many were fitted with a larger rectangular style with a weighted strip riveted along the bottom edge. Accordingly, all four were remade using thin plastic card.
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The half-shafts and wheel hubs during preparation
One of the leaf springs is being offered up to its location on the chassis rail; it too was pre-painted
The hull is well detailed internally, although more can always be added
Turret time
Moving to the turret, as with the hull, a basic interior is supplied which makes the turret look pleasingly busy. The open rear hatches are well detailed with etched parts provided for the travel limiters plus separate latches. The upper hatch is moulded with a rebate round the edge and is a little thick. Careful sanding and filling of the edge soon sorts this. The 2cm KwK30 cannon and MG34 provided in the kit are adequate, but can be improved. Drilling out the cooling holes using a 0.4mm bit will enhance the MG while the canon is best replaced with a turned metal version. AFV Club produce a turned barrel to suit this kit, along with turned width indicator poles – all were used on this model. The frame antenna provided by AFV Club is very delicate and care is needed to clean up the seam lines. It appears that the two rear cross members are a little too far forward, so I cut away the kit parts and fitted replacement 0.8mm plastic rod parts. By moving the rear cross member back 4mm and the middle one back 2mm, the rear support poles now appear to my eyes to be at the correct angle. I installed brass pins to the bottom of both support poles to enable the complete assembly to
Completed suspension system showing longitudinal leaf springs
The turret shell with access hatches and their inner detail installed
Here we see the hull interior with its layer of off-white ‘elfenbein’ (ivory) in place
be fitted late in the build after painting. Wood was used for the support poles to act as an electrical insulator. The few remaining colour images of the ‘232 reveal that these were unpainted. The frame antenna was connected to the radios inside the vehicle by a wire. This ran from the rear right hand pole to a ceramic terminal in the engine deck, just forward if the louvre. This detail is missed in the kit so was turned from some old sprue in the power drill. The last parts to add before painting are the headlights. These are installed front and rear, as the ‘232 could be driven in both directions when required. Unfortunately, the front headlights appear undersized when compared to photos of the original vehicle. Frustratingly I couldn’t find a good pair of replacement lights so the kit parts were fitted. I may change them at a later date should better-sized replacements come to light – excuse the pun! The rear brake light seen on many early ‘232s is missed in the kit so was turned from sprue and the split face added with plastic card. The characteristic reflector hanging from the rear left hand fender is also scratchbuilt. Before painting the base grey, the areas where the national crosses were applied
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A view of the driver’s station ‘roof’ with instrument panel in place
Looking down into the open hull, revealing the rear driving position
The author added a ‘floating’ radiator grille which is just visible on the finished model
Left and below left; here we see the replacement engine deck louvres, fitted by the author using strips of plastic card for a more scale-like appearance
The radio antenna’s ceramic insulator was missing from the kit, so this detail was made from sprue, using a scalpel tip as a tool. Toughened eye-protection is vital during procedures such as this
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FEATURE ARTICLE: AFV CLUB SD.KFZ.232 (8-RAD) EARLY TYPE • Kit No. AF35232
Modelspec: AFV Club Sd.Kfz.232 (8-Rad) early type (AF35232) AFV Club Sd.Kfz.232 Barrel & Clearance Indicator Pole (AG35035) Decals:
The locks and handles on the crew doors were substituted with new plastic rod replacements for a more refined appearance
Basic assembly has been completed and the external structures are being test fitted
Wolf logo and red licence plate stamps; Echelon Decals LSSAH Sd.Kfz.251/7 Kit No D356094 Recon marking & tyre pressure stencils; Echelon Decals Sd.Kfz.232 Grossdeutschland Kit No D356042 Licence Plates; Dragon Models Generic number plates (included in Sd.Kfz.234 kits) Kit No.6298 or 6257 References: Ground Power No.73 German 8 rad armoured cars (1) Allied-Axis No4 German 8-rad armoured cars Availability:
Parts of the inner frame of the radio antenna were replaced with plastic rod
Some of the pioneer tools were replaced for a more authentic look
The T-shaped antenna support frame has now been fitted to the turret
AFV Club kits are imported and distributed in the UK by Pocketbond Ltd www.pocketbond.co.uk were painted white then masked using Tamiya tape. The base grey was then sprayed followed by the secondary brown and the masks then removed to reveal four perfect crosses. As mentioned earlier, the tyres are separate items, moulded in soft black ‘rubber’. These were carefully sprayed in a range of suitable dust colours and once dry, the tread pattern sanded to reveal the rubber colour under the paint. I am cautious using soft rubber tyres, as it is common for the plasticiser in the tyre to migrate into the adjacent hard styrene and soften or irreparably damage the wheel hub. However, as long as the hub is well painted before adding the tyre, the plasticiser does not migrate. Time will tell I suppose.
DECALS
AFV Club have done a fantastic job of replicating the Sd.Kfz.232’s complex suspension and drivetrain
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AFV Club provide number plates and the colourful red and white ‘Wiesbaden’ plus white ‘Polish’ campaign crosses. With no reference for this 232, I decided instead to amalgamate a series of early vehicles into a typical, yet fictitious armoured car. Adding names to the ‘232 was common, thus ‘Wolf’ seemed appropriate. The ‘Aufklärungs’ or reconnaissance symbol was often added on the rear sides of the engine deck plus tyre pressure stencils to the fenders above each wheel. Some ‘232s show the painted the rectangular style number plate with the corners removed, applied within the rectangular plate. A five digit number plus red stamps complete the ‘early’ appearance. Time to give you my conclusions. This really is a great kit with outstanding detail throughout. All parts are well engineered and fit well. The interior is an excellent basis for adding detail as clearly there is scope for adding ammo storage and radios. I would have liked a rudimentary engine included, as it was common to have the side covers open revealing the power-plant inside, but the additional sprues and tooling would possibly push the cost of the kit to uneconomical levels. The open topped Sd.Kfz.233 armed with the short 75mm gun has been announced and the Sd.Kfz.263 command version is already available. I hope AFV Club decides to maximise this tooling and offer later versions of the ‘231 or ‘232. We will wait and see! •
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1:35 SCALE
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KIT PREVIEW: THORNYCROFT TYPE J LORRY • Kit No. CB35065
THORNYCROFT TYPE J LORRY IN 54MM
Tommy’s War have been putting out some wonderful 54mm First World War figures over the last couple of years or so, and now they have stepped up a gear and created their first vehicle kit
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he model depicts a Thornycroft Type J lorry and Tommy’s War have issued it in two forms, a cargo variant (previewed here) and an anti-aircraft version with a 13pdr gun mounted on the rear deck. More versions of the Type J are to follow, notably an ambulance version which should prove popular. The kit is cast in conventional yellow polyurethane resin (over fifty resin parts) and comes with strips of extruded styrene beam and some small photo-etched brass parts. Detail is subtle across the model and casting is without air bubbles or other flaws. A decal sheet is included, offering markings for a several vehicles in the service of Britain and the Empire. The Thornycroft Type J was an extraordinarily versatile vehicle and was built in large quantities – over 5000 vehicles had been supplied by the Basingstoke factory by the end of the First World War – and was used by all branches of the forces across Europe and the British Empire during the course of the conflict.•
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The kit comes extremely well packaged
Radiator is finely detailed on both front and rear faces
Wheels need a little clean up but are perfectly detailed
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Two versions of the Thornycroft are on release
Modelspec: SCALE: 54mm MATERIALS: R, PE, SS, WS, Availability; Cabin canvas top is extremely well formed and even features the inner support frame
www.tommyswar.co.uk MiM OPINION? A significant subject, very well cast with fine detail
Detail in the mechanical parts is of an excellent quality
Even the thinnest castings are free from distortion
Resin castings are flawless
Lengths of polystyrene rod, copper wire and PE brass are included
Darren from Tommy’s War shows off the anti-aircraft version of the kit
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FEATURE ARTICLE: BRONCO 1:35 GERMAN 28CM SWURFGERÄT 40 AUF G.W.H39 • Kit No.35002
STUKA ZU FRANCE Jian Gao builds and improves one of Bronco’s earliest releases – their 1:35 scale 28cm sWurfgerät 40 auf G.W.H39
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Gearbox and transmission detail plus air filters were added using plastic sheet and brass
he 28cm sWurfgerät 40 auf G.W.H39 was a French Hotchkiss H39 pressed into Wehrmacht service and fitted with six of the feared Wurfrahmen 40 rocket launchers, hanging from the sides of the little tank. Bronco’s 1:35 scale offering of this interesting type was one of Bronco’s earliest releases, appearing around 2006. The model is crisply moulded in light grey plastic. This is a very soft material, so you’ll need to be careful to prevent damaging the parts when removing them from the sprues or cleaning up. Bronco’s H39 also includes a brass barrel, separate track links and six metal springs, but the suspension is not fully workable – only poseable. This model was released before Trumpeter’s, but its accuracy and detail are still good. Even though the Bronco model includes gun breech detail, engine, gearbox and the internal hull structure, it is still considerably cheaper than Trumpeter’s kit.
ADDING DETAILS
Upon completion of the hull interior, a gloss finish was applied using Mr. Color semi-gloss paint. Chips, scratches and soil were applied in this step too
‘I find that scratch building is both cheap and challenging!’
Above and middle: A rough cast surface was added using a 2:1 mixture of thinner and basic putty, stippled with a brush
I planned to use this kit as part of a diorama from the beginning. All the hatches were therefore left open in order to accommodate the crew figures. Some of the internal details were a bit oversimplified due to the small size of the kit, so I decided to add more detail. The materials used were no more complicated that plastic card and photo-etch. I find that scratch building is both cheap and challenging! Even so, I did not add all the parts – just those that could be seen through the open rear hatch Museum photos show a large box occupying a lot of space on the middle of the right hull side. I’m not sure what this is, but I made it from plastic card I use plastic card as surprisingly, Bronco did not include it on their sprues. I made a plastic air filter, and added clamps made from fine metal strip. I also improved the shape of the transmission and added bolts from stretched sprue. Copper tubing was added to the hull side too. The interior of the turret was very bare so I turned my attention to this area. If the back hatch is open, you will see the very obvious turret ring. This part is very simple. It seems that two rings of different width were stacked together above recessed bolts. A compass cutter is the most convenient tool that can easily help deliver circles of different diameters from plastic card. I cut out the arcs in the appropriate sizes, then simply stuck them inside the turret. I was most disappointed that the rear turret hatch did not have any details inside, just a smooth surface. This is quite inexcusable, as the real internal structure of the hatch features a great deal of detail. I found photos of the H39 online, and used these to add details from plastic card, stretched plastic sprue and photo-etched metal. The result is not perfect, but I have tried to make it more realistic. Plastic card was also added to the edge of the rear of the turret, representing the hatch seal. Reference photos show that the idler wheel is wrong. A series of photos found online reveal that there were two types of idler wheel fitted to the H39, One has eight nuts around the hub; while the other has five metal strips around the hub. Despite this, the idler wheel of this kit does not have any details! I chose the first type with eight nuts around the wheel hub. They come from another kit. The track links are moulded from a hard plastic material. These are not well detailed, and what
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FEATURE ARTICLE: BRONCO 1:35 GERMAN 28CM SWURFGERÄT 40 AUF G.W.H39 • Kit No.35002
After the putty dried, the surface was finished with #1000 sandpaper
Plastic card, stretched plastic sprue and photo-etch transforms the hatch
GAIA 121 silver primer, covering the surface clear black
Turret ring detail was added with plastic card, cut to shape using a compass cutter
Before spraying the base colour, masking tape was applied
Track pins were added using stretched plastic sprue and hand drilled holes
The brackets were the wrong size - needing new replacement parts Tool brackets are from the spares box and exhaust pipes with brass foil shroud
little detail there is can easily be lost as the heavy plastic sprues are attached to both sides of the links. Track pin detail was restored by drilling holes in the edges of each link with a hand drill, and adding stretched sprue for the pins. Turret looks too fat, and the outline looks wrong too. I gave the turret a dose of “bariatric surgery”! Shovels, axes and tools, they are also too fat, especially the spade, since it is German equipment. I replaced them with other tools from the spares box and replaced all the handles with plastic rod. These were a better representation of wooden handles. There were many versions of the muffler and exhaust pipe. I used brass from an Eduard photoetched set, cutting it into thin strips and glued to
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the exhaust pipe. The buckles and straps for the tools were replaced with photo-etch. I also added nuts and bolts to these. The rear hull has obvious errors and the road wheel bracket is simplified and too small. I used plastic card and photo-etched parts to produce a new bracket.
with a brush “stamp” on the surface. After waiting for one day, with the putty dried, the surface was modified with sandpaper. Some parts, such as the engine cover, are smooth, not cast. Here I chose a different technique, with putty diluted 2:1 and applied with a brush to the surface.
CAST SURFACES
CASTING ROAD WHEEL
The turret and hull of the H39 tank is mainly cast metal production. The surface is very rough on the real vehicle, but not that obvious on the model due to cost and technical limitations. I decided to make a rough cast texture. The texture was created with a mixture of Tamiya basic putty, diluted to a ratio of 3:1, and applied
A casting process was also used to produce H39 road wheels. The metal surfaces would be worn too. In order to show this effect, I used Tamiya Extra Thin Liquid Cement coated on the surface of the road wheel, allowing the cement to soften the plastic, then rolled the road wheel on sandpaper. After this had dried, I sanded the surface with #
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More detail was added to the driver’s hatch
Tamiya XF-2 Flat White added to the XF-60 Dark Yellow. For highlights, more white was added
‘Although the detail of the kit is limited, its shape and size is accurate.’
The hard edged camouflage scheme was sprayed with the help of Silly Putty. I chose XF-68 NATO Brown. Highlights have also been added.
I did not use decals, instead using masking tape and white paint
1000 sandpaper. The effect was very pleasing. The road wheels had a very obvious casting line, but this detail has been simplified and thinned. I eliminated these and replaced them with putty applied in a 0.8mm gap between thin strips of Tamiya masking tape. Weld beads on the hull and turret were reproduced using this same method. I like to sprayed my road wheels with a coat with silver paint, then add heavily diluted black paint over the top. This technique offers a metallic tone. There is also often significant wear and tear on the edges of the road wheels, resulting in a large number of silver chips. I have been inspired by Mr. Kazuya Yoshioka’s techniques. I used Gunze Mr. Silicone Barrier, then sprayed the road wheels with silver primer, edge painting
The final colour, XF-67 NATO Green - hard edged camouflage completed
Vallejo Model Colour acrylic paint was applied with a sponge to add chipping. Larger scratches were done with a small brush and MC213
release agents, and next, sprayed the dark yellow camouflage colour. After the paint had dried, I used a hard bristle brush to apply friction to the road edges. Metallic chips magically appear! This technique is also suitable to add sharp chips to other areas.
PAINTING
A captured French tank would be expected to keep its interior French colours. The gearbox was a very bright green, and the air filter is blue. I had never had any previous experience with colours this bright in a military vehicle. The Bronco painting instructions suggest a base colour of Dark Yellow and light green stripes. I did not like this scheme. Instead, I chose three-
Exhaust pipe colour, old rust and new rust, with ‘spatter’ techniques
colour Dark Yellow, Red Brown and Dark Green camouflage. Dark Yellow is Tamiya XF-60. I decided not to use Tamiya XF-61 and XF-64, as these two colours are too dark and really should not be used on German tank models. Instead, I chose XF-68 NATO Brown and XF-67 NATO Green, both mixed with a small amount of XF-2 white resulting in a lighter, brighter hue. The hard edged camouflage demarcation was achieved with the help of Silly Putty. The first colour applied was Dark Yellow, followed by Brown and finally Green. When each base colour has been applied, I also sprayed a paler version of the colours – mixed with white. These were particularly sprayed in the raised area and edges to add highlights.
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FEATURE ARTICLE: BRONCO 1:35 GERMAN 28CM SWURFGERÄT 40 AUF G.W.H39 • Kit No.35002
Sharp chips between the silver primer and the surface paint smear release agents were obtained by rubbing the edges with a hard brush
Pigments were added to XF-57 Buff enamel before applying the spatter technique
Diluted 080 Brown Wash applied with brushes and turpentine creates this streaming rust effect
Seriously frayed edges! The steel tone is very nice after drybrushing with MC213
I like to use a sponge to add chips. This technique is very convenient. For dense chipping, the effect may be increased with a brush. The colours of the chipping may be different depending on the location. The internal structure of the chip is brown, while hull and turret chips are not the same colour. I tried to use different paint, and finally I found the Vallejo Acrylic Model Color to be the most suitable. Its advantage is that if a mistake is made during application, you can easily get rid of it with the use of hot water without damaging the painted surface of the model. I have served in the Armed Forces. This experience allows me to understand the use of tanks, which was of great assistance for this model. I used Gunze Mr. Metal MC213 Stainless to add scratches to the tracks where they touch the ground. I like this paint for a shiny bare metal effect. For further weathering, the model was first given a filter of Mig Abteilung 502 White, Buff and German Ochre oil paints. I also like to use Tamiya Enamel XF-57 Buff to add dust. I mixed turpentine and Buff, then use the airbrush to spray corners and recessed areas, paying attention that the air pressure is low to ensure a thin covering on the model. With turpentine and a brush, I then wiped off the excess enamel paint.
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New rust using German Ochre wash
Mig Productions P232 Dry Mud was drybrushed, letting the soil cover the entire track run
CHIPS AND SCRATCHES
WEATHERING
Chips were added with a sponge, different areas with different colours, dark yellow or brown
After this step, I applied the rust effect by 502 oil colour. The old rust is achieved using 080 Wash Brown, while the new rust is expressed by 092 German Ochre, in areas such as a road wheel that has not been used for some time. Flowing rust was also applied as a brown wash with German Ochre added, with turpentine and oils, using a small brush. The exhaust pipe is densely covered with particles of chips and soil in different colours. I like to use ‘spatter’ techniques. You can easily achieve satisfactory results. This technique was also used to weathering the track and the bottom hull. I added pigments to enamel paint. Tamiya X-19 Smoke was used to simulate oil. This was applied in layers according to the amount of oil needed. This oil effect was added inside the hull and turret. The oil dripping from the exhaust pipe requires multiple overlays to darken the finish. The last step was the addition of pigments. I chose Mig Pigments’ P232 Dry Mud, dry brushed into the recessed area and tracks.
CONCLUSION
Although the detail of the kit is limited, its shape and size is accurate. Even adding your own scratch built parts, the build is not all that difficult. Compared with a tall and heavy tank, such a small vehicle has special beauty; I had a lot of fun with this project. •
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FEATURE ARTICLE: Great Wall Hobby sWS halftrack Infrared Searchlight Carrier “Uhu” • Kit No. L3511. Dragon 1:35 Sd.Kfz. 234/4 Panzerspahwagen • Kit No. 6221
NIGHT SHIFT Antonio Martin Tello exercises his modelling skills and imagination with a Panzerwaffe ’46 pair of night hunting vehicles.
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nfrared (IR) radiation is a “light” with longer wavelengths that those of visible light and thus is not perceptible by the human eye. Nevertheless, with the appropriate technology, it can be transformed in visible images. The potential use of IR light sources and detectors attracted the interest of the military from the early 1930’ as a way to “illuminate” objects in the night. These objects and the IR sources would be only visible for the own forces equipped with the corresponding sights… obviously provided that the enemy had not similar technology. The United States, Great Britain and Germany led the research in this field, in the beginning mainly oriented to the development of devices that allow the illumination of roads or obstacles for night driving, or surveillance
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of important points (coasts, vessels, artillery emplacements, airfields…) in the dark. Some attempts to extend the use of IR devices to first line combat were envisioned later, especially by the Germans, and in a lesser extent, by the Americans. Despite the fact that during WWII only the British made some confirmed operational use of the IR technology with their “Tabby” devices, in the collective modelling folklore the Germans were the ones who led the military use of IR during the war. It is true that Germany designed, tested and manufactured several types of infrared devices, some of them even produced in appreciable numbers, but their use in actual combat is very dubious. Scattered in the old literature and the Internet, one can read
some “reports” of amazing successes of Panzer forces during local skirmishes at night in the last months of the war, both in the Western and Eastern fronts. The victories were attributed to “Nachtjäger” teams of Panthers equipped with IR observation and aiming devices and half tracks with IR projectors. These “reports” have to be taken with lots of reservations, since most of the times they do not stand a rigorous technical and historical analysis. It might be possible that some real use of IR equipment would have been done in Hungary once, on a limited extent, but details remain unclear. As I wrote above, it is well known that the Germans made and tested IR devices, and photographs of these installed in cars, a PaK
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‘One of the advantages of the “Panzerwaffe 1946” theme is that the modeller is set free from the tyranny of the historical accuracy.’
40 anti-tank gun on a Marder II, Panthers and Sd.Kfz. 251 half tracks (“Falke” (hawk) and “Uhu” (owl)) have been published. They even developed individual portable IR equipment for a StG 44 assault rifle with a sight and a projector. These portable weapons, named with the evocative nickname of “Vampir” (vampire), were destined to specialised infantry which task was to defend the IR vehicles from the enemy infantry during operations at night. A batch of late Panthers were built in the factory with the necessary modifications to be equipped with IR projectors and sights if necessary. The most visible of these modifications was the installation of a rear container, which replaced the rear right
standard bin, intended for the batteries necessary to power the IR devices. A fair amount of wartime photos of late Panthers bearing this container are known. Nevertheless, the only photographic evidence of an infrared device actually installed in a Panther comes from trials at Fallingbostel training grounds, and shows a projector and sight installed in the commander’s cupola. This mount (which is called sometimes “Sperber” (sparrow hawk) or “solution A”) only provided night vision for the commander of the tank, who had to guide the driver and gunner in the dark, obviously a cumbersome task. A more complicated installation, with IR devices also for the gunner and driver, has sometimes been cited as
“solution B”, but as far as I know, no conclusive photographic or documentary evidence of its real existence was ever found. So, if modified Panthers and IR sights and projectors were available, why were they not more extensively used? Firstly, it has to be considered that IR technology was still in its infancy. The images obtained were not of exceptional quality, and the range was limited. The process of seeking targets and aiming the gun was complicated and slow (remember the driver and gunner operated blind). The sights were very delicate and sensitive to atmospheric conditions, and elements such as fog, rain, or even the light from the moon or its reflect in the snow could dramatically reduce their
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FEATURE ARTICLE: Great Wall Hobby sWS halftrack Infrared Searchlight Carrier “Uhu” • Kit No. L3511. Dragon 1:35 Sd.Kfz. 234/4 Panzerspahwägen • Kit No. 6221
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4 performance or even make them completely useless. After firing, the vibrations produced a misalignment of sights and guns that had to be re-adjusted. Finally, remember that the optimal use of the IR technology relies on the assumption that the enemy has no IR technology. If the opponent has IR sights, then the sources of IR light are exposed and are an easy target. The Germans were very concerned about the possibility of the IR devices captured by the Soviets, and the British still had their IR “Tabby” sights that could detect the German IR sources. Anyway, the popularity among modellers of a subject such as “German IR” that in reality was so inefficient is curious. I suppose that it comes form the “German high tech” superiority perception, the fancy names such as “Hawk”, “Owl” or “Vampire” (my favourite), or the way its use was theoretically envisaged: Platoons of
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three or four Panthers “Sperber”, accompanied by a Sd.Kfz. 251 “Uhu” and protected by “Vampir” Panzergrenadier, merciless shooting in the dark to terrified enemies who cannot see where the destruction comes from at night. Suggestive, isn’t it?
PANZERWAFFE 1946
In the tiny world of AFV modelling there is a subgenre named “Panzerwaffe 1946” (or something similar). It deals with prototypes, designing concepts or imaginary developments of German military vehicles that never existed but that could have existed if the war would have lasted longer or history would have taken a different pathway (both premises, fortunately, did not happen). The “Panzerwaffe 1946” term seems to derive from the analogous “Luftwaffe 1946”, that apparently is quite popular among our aircraft
modelling colleagues. Sometimes the subjects are based in some documented, but not materialized plans, and some others are simply fictional, or even weird and wild alternative history sci-fi vehicles. Some years ago, only a few kits of these fictional vehicles were available and usually even then only from some hard to find and expensive resin brands. Nevertheless, lately, some plastic kit manufacturers have started to release this kind of vehicles, generally (but not only) of the type that existed in some step of the design process, but that they actually were never made. These are called sometimes “paper panzers” (they only existed on plans on paper) and seems to fill a niche in the saturated AFV market, were most of the more “normal” German vehicles have already been kitted several times and by several manufacturers. Great Wall Hobby joined the “Panzerwaffe
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‘What if the German IR anti-tank concept would have been extended to other late war vehicles such as the Sd.Kfz. 234/4?. What if…’ 1946” club in 2009 with their sWS 60cm Infrared Searchlight Carrier “Uhu” (ref. L3511), a purely fictional vehicle that cannot even be called a “paper panzer” since, to the best of my knowledge, no plans of it ever existed. The only actual “Uhu” was the Sd.Kfz. 251/20, which carried a 60 cm IR projector and its generator that had the mission of illuminating targets to the Panthers “Sperber”. sWS stands for “schwere Wehrmacht Schlepper” (heavy tractor for the army) and was a late war vehicle intended to replace earlier half tracks with a simpler and cheaper design. Cargo versions with open and armoured cabin, as well as platforms for the 3.7cm FlaK 43 anti-aircraft gun on the rear bed and the Panzerwerfer 15cm Nebelwerfer 42 rocket launcher, both with armoured cabins, were made. Despite no evidence of plans for the use of the sWS as a
carrier for the 60cm Infrared Searchlight, it would not have been illogical to use it in this role, given the standardisation process envisioned by the Wehrmacht in the late war period. That is, a typical “Panzerwaffe 1946” vehicle. The Sd.Kfz. 234 series of eight wheeled vehicles have always been among my favourites. I like a lot their modern and aggressive look, and the Dragon models of the family are excellent kits. When I decided to start the 234/4 “Pakwagen” (ref. 6221), I thought about to make something different with it, given than many excellent “conventional” models had seen in the forums. Since I had just finished the sWS Uhu, an idea came to my mind and I decided to build it as a companion. What if the German IR anti-tank concept would have been extended to other late war vehicles such as the Sd.Kfz. 234/4? What if…
THE MODELS
Great Wall Hobby is one of these new companies from China that apparently was able to produce outstanding kits from the beginning. In fact, the sWS Uhu was the first kit under this brand, since prior that they labelled their models as Lion Roar. From the Uhu onwards, it seems that they reserved this name for their photo-etched line. Anyway, Great Wall Hobby seems not be very prolific, but their kits are usually praised for quality and detail. I cannot but join this general consensus, and say this sWS 60cm Infrared Searchlight Carrier “Uhu” is an outstanding kit. The detail is sharp an abundant and the building is not specially complicated. The tracks are of the “link by link non workable” type, and it includes a small and basic fret of photo etch, and a clear sprue with the IR equipment. I built it from the box, with some small addition in the form of some clamps for the tools, and some electric wiring for the
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FEATURE ARTICLE: Great Wall Hobby sWS halftrack Infrared Searchlight Carrier “Uhu” • Kit No. L3511. Dragon 1:35 Sd.Kfz. 234/4 Panzerspahwagen • Kit No. 6221
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searchlight and IR optics “extrapolated” from images of such equipment in the actual Sd.Kfz. 251/20 Uhu. Building fictional vehicles absolves oneself from the anxiety for total accuracy. Fig 1 & 2. On the other hand, Dragon is certainly not a newcomer. It has established as one of the big boys of military modelling. Their quality level has not ceased to rise, and, except from some screw-up from time to time, they are nowadays able to produce fantastic kits. Their Sd.Kfz. 234 family are among the kits most appreciated by modellers. They are plentiful of detail, (ah, this running gear…) and their construction runs relatively smoothly. The Sd.Kfz. 234/4 kit box is filled of parts, including a small photo etched sheet, a clear sprue, an aluminium gun barrel, and some metallic parts, such as the wide indicator poles. The interior provided is quite complete, despite it is not very visible once the model is done. Nevertheless, it has been pointed up that the batteries are missing, but, as I said, this is barely noticeable in the finished model. The kit comes with only “all terrain” wheels, but since I also have the Dragon kit of the Sd.Kfz. 234/3 (ref 6257), in which several “civilian pattern” are included as a bonus, I took several from there in order to add more variation to my “Pakwagen”. I built the kit more or less out from the box, except for the IR gear. It came from leftovers of the sWS Uhu and, again, I used images of the disposition of these elements in the real Sd.Kfz. 251/20 Uhu captured by the allied. The way to add the IR visor and projector in the PaK 40 is purely speculative, since only one not very clear photo of something relatively similar (a Marder II) is known. Fig 3 , 4 & 5.
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PAINTING THE UHU
One of the advantages of the “Panzerwaffe 1946” theme is that the modeller is set free from the tyranny of the historical accuracy. I therefore looked for an imaginative camouflage scheme for the “Uhu”, regardless of if they was or could have been used. I chose to paint the model in broad green and brown diagonal bands separated by narrow dark yellow stripes. I airbrushed this scheme free hand, using Tamiya acrylics diluted with lacquer thinner (Gaianotes). I started with lighter colours since in my experience all the later treatments will darken the paint of the model, so I used Buff XF-57, Flat Brown XF-10 lightened with Buff and Olive Green XF-58 lightened with Sky XF-21 for the three starting colours. Then I applied a diluted coat of Tamiya clear X-22 and added the decals. To make the model more appealing I took some colourful numbers and other decals from the spares - not a good idea. The decals were old and thick, and, even with the aid of Microsol and Microset they did not perfectly blend onto the surface. (Note to myself: Always use the best possible decals). Another coat of clear X-22 and the model was ready for the weathering. Fig 6 & 7. The lower portion and the wheels were painted in red primer, a mix of matt red XF-7 and red brown XF-64. Fig 8. The searchlight was painted in a slightly lighter green colour than the green of the vehicle. Fig 9. I continued with three or four filters of tan (P242) and green (P244) from Sin Industries in the vehicle and in the searchlight, respectively. I used different filters in order to get slightly
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11 dissimilar tones in both parts. Then, I applied some oil pinwashes of several tones. In order to add chromatic richness to the base. The oils were applied as dots, and then blended with the help of a bush moisten in thinner. Then I added the chipping. I simulated several kinds of damage, varying in the depth. The most superficial scratches were painted with the base colour lightened, then some revealing the red primer underneath the paint, and finally the oxidized bare metal. These chips were often painted one over the others, in a logical manner, and in a concentric way. Fig 10. Starting from some of this chips and scratches, I drew some rust streaks (AK-013) shading off them with thinner. Fig 11 & 12. The searchlight received a similar treatment but to a lesser extent. More grime streaks were added with the corresponding AK interactive fluid (AK-012). At this point I also painted the tools, IR headlamps and sights, and all the not camouflaged details. Finally, I used Mig Productions “Dark wash” to profile the details and remark the panel lines and recesses. Fig 13. The weathering process was over and now it was time for the dirtying the model. I usually start this stage by the running gear and lower portion of the vehicle. The excellent link by link tracks provided in the kit were assembled in two portions per side to ease their final installation They were coated in black, and then treated with a suspension made with pigments and water. Fig 14. The wheels were more heavily chipped with the dark brown colour in order to simulate a greater damage.
Once finished, were treated with several shades of pigments of earthy tones, sometimes dry, sometimes fixed with thinner, but trying no to overdone the effect, since I did not want a muddy or very dirty vehicle. Once the wheels were in place, the tracks were fixed and treated with the same pigments, accumulating them in the recesses. Then the tracks were gently drybrushed with grey with a hint of silver in order to highlight the outer details more prone to the wearing. The rest of the lower chassis received a similar treatment. Fig 15. The upper areas were dirtied with the same pigments applied dry. I accumulated them in recesses, corners and areas were the dust and dirtiness could have more likely settle. This finished the paint work in the model, and the final touch was the addition of a figure in the
cabin hatch. It came from the now I believe discontinued Artisan Mori range, and I painted it in a Leibermuster camouflage, a pattern developed at the end of the war and scarcely used, that is claimed to bear anti IR properties (Note for the editor: The folder Final Uhu contains photos of the finished model).
PAINTING THE IR SDKFZ 234/4
Since the SdKfz 234/4 is an open topped vehicle, once the entire interior was assembled it was painted prior to the two halves of the main body being glued together. As a late war vehicle, the colour chosen was red primer which was obtained by mixing Flat Red XF-7 and red Brown XF-64, both Tamiya acrylics. The details such as seats, steering wheels, gear sticks, levers were painted in black, green. The interior was scratched, weathered and
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14 dirtied with acrylics, oils and pigments. Anyway, not much of this work will be visible once the model is finished. Fig 16 & 17. Once the building phase was completed, the painting of the exterior commenced. For the base and camouflage colours I used my good old Tamiya acrylics thinned with lacquer thinner (Gaianotes). The base colour was a mixture of Dark Yellow XF-60 and Buff XF-57, plus some drops of Gloss Clear X-22, which is added to all the mixes in order to avoid a too matt finish. For the camouflage scheme I consulted as many photos of these vehicles (and other 234 relatives) and concluded that the hard-edged camouflage on these vehicles was consistently applied, probably in the factory, in such a way that the pattern, shape and location of the different colours were always the same. Thus, armed with Tamiya masking tape, I covered the areas were the yellow base should remain. Fig 18. Then I applied the green camouflage, made
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with a mixture of olive green XF-58 and dark yellow XF-60. This later colour lightens the green and adds a hue similar to the base colour, facilitating its integration. Fig 19. The last camouflage colour was the brown, made by mixing the base mix with red brown XF-64. Thus, I preserved the green areas with masking tape and airbrush this colour over the uncovered spots. Fig 20 & 21. Once dry, I retired all the masking tape revealing a quite nice (and stark) camouflage pattern. Some minor retouches were needed here and there and were made with a brush. Fig 22. The gun was painted in a slightly darker shade of the ochre base mixture and the barrel was painted in dark grey simulating the anti-caloric primer sometimes sported by replacing guns. Then I put the decals following the same routine as explained above for the sWS Uhu, and applied a couple of ochre filters. The gun received also some filters.
It was time to start the weathering. This time I applied the oils in several sessions, more controlled and carefully choosing the tones to get them naturally blend with the corresponding camouflage colours. I used several brownish tones and added vertical streaks simulating grim. Then, I painted the chipping in a similar way that for the Uhu, and add more streaks departing from the chips with a dark rust colour. Areas such as the front bumper was more heavily damaged, applying the dark brown chipping colour in a sort of “dry brush” with a hard bristles brush. I also painted the tools and on vehicle equipment at this point. I profiled the recesses and details, this time with the corresponding AK dark brown wash (AK-045). Fig 23. I also painted now the IR sights and headlamps, in dark yellow. The transparent glass parts were painted in the inner side with a very dark, almost black, red simulating the IR filters. Then I dirtied the lower hull with mixtures of pigments, mainly European dust from Mig Productions and European Earth from AK Interactive, fixed with thinner and Dark Mud AK-023 and Earth Effects AK-017 from AK Interactive. Varying the proportions of these mixtures, different intensities and tones can be achieved, thus adding interest. Fig 24. The process to paint the wheels was as follows: First, I painted them entirely in black and preserved the tyre with masking fluid. Fig 25. Then, I painted the hubs in the camouflage
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FEATURE ARTICLE: Great Wall Hobby sWS halftrack Infrared Searchlight Carrier “Uhu” • Kit No. L3511. Dragon 1:35 Sd.Kfz. 234/4 Panzerspahwägen • Kit No. 6221
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colours. Fig 26. Once dry, I removed the masking fluid, a task which resulted tougher than I expected… Fig 27. …after which some touches with black were needed in the tyres. The next step consisted in the painting of the chipping and scratches in the hubs… …followed by a dark wash to enhance the volumes of the details. Finally, the wheels were treated with pigments. The excess of these were removed by rubbing the sides and tyre track with the finger. Fig 28. The wheels were now ready and fitted, where they were slightly retouched with more pigments Fig 29. To finish the model, I installed the Pak in its place. The gun had received an overall treatment similar to the rest of the vehicle, perhaps a little bit less extreme. The Panzerwaffe 46 Sd.Kfz. 234/4 was done. To accompany the IR Sd.Kfz. 234/4 I decided to put together some figures that would represent some “Vampir” troops. The figures came from the Dragon set “Armored Reconnaissance Wiking Division (Hungary 1945)” (ref. 6131), with some new heads and hands.
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Apart from that, the AFV crew couple was used from stock but the two Panzergrenadiers were re-armed with IR StG 44 assault rifle fitted with the Zielgerät 1229 infrared aiming device. This consists mainly in a scope and a small projector connected to batteries carried in a backpack by the soldier. All this equipment was taken from the “Nachjäger (Berlin 1945)” set of figures from Dragon (ref. 6089). Also in this figure set it is included a “Fliegerfaust” or “Luftfaust”, a sort of multibarreled antiaircraft version of the “Panzerfaust” rocket launcher. This exotic weapon might have been used in the rubble of Berlin in 1945 and I certainly could not resist adding such a “Panzerwaffe 1946” item to my vampire party. •
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FEATURE ARTICLE: TRUMPETER 1:35 S103C • Kit No. 310
LOW RIDER John Robinson upgrades Trumpeter’s simple yet striking 1:35 scale Swedish S103C kit with new tracks and fence armour.
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’ve always considered myself primarily a WWII vehicle enthusiast, seldom casting an eye toward modern era subjects. However, that resistance ended the day a Swedish Stridsvagn 103C paraded in front of me during a tank demonstration. So many unique characteristics - the turretless design, angular hull, and of course, the garish camouflage! That day planted the seed of interest that led to building one. It was not until a few years later that Trumpeter released their version in styrene, one I eagerly purchased.
PROJECT DESCRIBED
One of the 103C characteristics begging to display on the model is the hydro-pneumatic suspension. The kit’s separate road wheel axles allow this, but the single piece tracks are not well suited to the task. Fortunately, the 103C track is almost identical to those on the Leopard 2, and AFV Club has an excellent set in separate links. Using them allows realistic conformity to the suspension. Upgraded 103C’s received a steel bar
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“fence” in the front, intended to defeat incoming shaped-charged warheads. In reality, it is just rods mounted vertically through holes in the hull and braced by rectangular links. This second major kit modification is constructed from brass rod and scrap styrene. Lastly, the model wears the four-colour polygonal camouflage seen in the last days of its service. These challenges add character to the model, and do not imply the kit is inaccurate without them. Modifications take place using common materials, not expensive photo-etch. Upon opening Trumpeter’s box, the kit reveals its uncomplicated nature, with few parts and flexible plastic track strips. There are no fancy extras to admire, but it scores points with fine detail and good fit. A minor issue is the tiny hooks on the engine deck that are moulded solid. However, their size and location invite difficulty replacing them and are not that noticeable. Assembly goes well without difficulty, using filler when needed, but very
seldom at that. Without a turret to contend with, the pace rapidly moves along until the suspension modifications begin. Removing the alignment keys on the road wheel axles allows free movement. Real 103C reference photos establish where the model axles should sit. Each road wheel half traps a poly cap for easy installation.
MAKING TRACKS
The AFV Club Leopard 2 track set replaces the kit tracks. Their detail is superior, and they fit the modified suspension easily. This set builds working tracks without need of glue, but assembly is tedious. Tiny end connectors and centre guides install on each link, and sprue attachment scars remain until sanded smooth. Coarse sandpaper roughens the link’s rubber pads and takes away their new look. When complete, dry fitting sessions using the tracks and all wheels and drivers finalized the track position, still without cementing the tracks. Putting this assembly aside is a relief, knowing the model will display itself in an interesting position.
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FEATURE ARTICLE: TRUMPETER 1:35 S103C • Kit No. 310
The rear fuel cells received a casting seam by using Tamiya masking tape and Gunze Sangyo Mr. Surfacer Making the fence armour starts with a fitted styrene strip acting as a template to align and drill the holes at specific intervals
Clear styrene is a substantial improvement to the kit’s opaque periscope glass
Wire around the exhaust pipe hides the unsightly join seam
The completed fence armour uses just brass and styrene, but requires the drilling of 32 holes into the hull
FENCE ARMOUR
Detail enhancements are apparent here, namely the wire antenna bases and tow cable stays; the mortar and light base wire conduits; new reflector housings, fuel cell hinges and straps; and Karaya tow cable.
The fence armour is the next major modification, and it comes only after careful study of 103C references from different angles. The steel rods closely mount into holes on the front hull edge, at evenly spaced intervals. Steel braces support and strengthen the whole assembly. On the model, a pre-drilled styrene template matching the hull contours assisted the creation of the holes. The prospect of drilling 32 holes into a perfectly good hull, with only one chance to succeed generated a good deal of apprehension. However, the careful planning paid off and the patient survived the surgery quite well. These holes each received a brass rod, followed by many styrene rectangle braces. Lining up all these was a tedious task.
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With the major construction complete, remaining work focuses on the details, with a few custom enhancements. The 103C rear stowage containers are a lightweight, non-metallic material with visible seams. The kit parts received a horizontal casting seam by using Tamiya masking tape and Gunze Sangyo Mr. Surfacer. Also added are the lid hinges and tie down points. Rear reflector replacements are brass. The periscopes received styrene covers, and clear styrene replaced the opaque kit parts. Wire around the exhaust pipe hides the join seam. Coiled antenna bases are also wound wire. The mortar and light bases received wire conduits. Karaya tow cable with scratch built ends fills in for what the kit does not provide. Replacement tow cable stays are
wire, because the delicate kit parts do not clean up easily.
PAINTING
The camouflage is the last major challenge to this build. Early 103s were solid green, but finished service sporting a complex four-colour camouflage arranged in randomly shaped polygons. Studying the real 103C camouflage suggests it is brush applied. A patient modeller with steady hands can no doubt brush this camouflage, but using stencils will deliver predictable results. The stencils selectively expose areas to the airbrush, loaded with each colour. The stencils are adhesive backed lead foil that conform to irregular surfaces and are reusable. Again, photographs prove to be
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Additional materials used during finishing: Tamiya Spray Can AS-14 Olive Green, Gunze Sangyo Mr. Surfacer 1000, and Johnson clear floor wax
Tamiya paints used for the camouflage. The darkest green is XF-26 Deep Green with equal parts XF-69 NATO Black. The light green is XF-67 NATO Green in three parts to every two parts of XF-4 Yellow Green. The brown is XF-52 Flat Earth, and the black XF-69 NATO Black
The lead foil stencils removed to show the result
invaluable references during the painting process. Painting begins with a primer coat using Tamiya AS-14 Olive Green spray can. Its lacquer composition covers thoroughly, reveals construction flaws, and establishes a sturdy foundation for subsequent steps. Out of the four camouflage colours, two are stock Tamiya and two are custom mixes. The darkest green is XF-26 Deep Green with equal parts XF-69 NATO Black. The light green is XF-67 NATO Green in three parts to every two parts of XF-4 Yellow Green. The brown is XF-52 Flat Earth, and the black XF-69 NATO Black. A few drops of Future floor wax in the paint cup transforms the flat finish to a satin one. The darkest green covers the road wheels and track sides of the lower hull. Camouflage covers the remaining areas, except the commander and driver stations. Once the dark green base is dry, the
XF-69 NATO Black is the third colour
camouflage surfaces receive a spray of light green. Since the centre of the hull around the crew hatches is to remain dark green, the foil stencils start to define shapes radiating outward from there. The balance of coverage between the two greens is approximately 1:1. This procedure repeats with the NATO Black and Flat Earth, attempting to have each covering approximately 25% of the model. The paint dries quickly enough to reapply the stencil within minutes of each application. This consumed an entire weekend, but produced the exact effect desired. The pipes stowed on the hull sides help erect the flotation screen. The camouflage on them is inconsistent with the surrounding colours, suggesting the crew stowed them without regard to their original placement. Another subtle effect found in reference photos is the paint cracking on the sprocket’s rubber mud covers. This effect
The camouflage begins as the lead foil stencils start to define dark green shapes radiating outward. Blue painter’s tape protects from over spray
The cracked paint on the rubber cover is barely visible, but the weathering powders are evident around the edges and on the jerry cans
is possible to replicate using Vallejo Crackle Medium. The black undercoat, when covered in the crackle medium, shows through the top colour as cracks. This effect also appears on the exhaust piping on the roof. The kit’s water-soluble decals are thin and the number placards very much usable. However, the warning placards should say “risk for klamskador” and the communication box label “telefon” instead of “telefax”. This clearly indicates trouble with the language translation used by the Trumpeter designers. Though quite amusing at first glance, their unfortunate inaccuracy disqualifies them from use.
WEATHERING
The weathering and detail painting use Vallejo acrylics. Brush-applied Vallejo Model Air (VMA) 56 Black Grey, thinned 90% with equal parts
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FEATURE ARTICLE: TRUMPETER 1:35 S103C • Kit No. 310
XF-52 Flat Earth completes the camouflage
Coarse sandpaper roughened the rubber pads on the AFV Club Leopard 2 track
The camouflage colours crack when applied over Vallejo Crackle Medium
The wheels are dark green with Vallejo 862 Black Grey tires, washed with distilled water and Dust Bowl Brown weathering powder. The underlying green is exposed when the dry powder is brushed off. The inner rims receive a sprinkling of Weathered Brown weathering powder adhered with VMA 60 Satin Varnish
The tracks are VMA Metallic 62 Aluminium, brushed with VMC 862 Black Grey on the rubber pads. Weathered Brown and Ash weathering powder and acrylic airbrush cleaner provide the dirty look
The markings and detail painting are complete, but weathering remains
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Modelspec: Trumpeter 1:35 Sweden Strv 103C.
Kit No. 310
Accessories Used: AFV Club Leopard II styrene separate link track (No. 35S09) MV Products Lens (L116) x2 Karaya Tow Cable 1.1mm (TC 004) Paints and Finishing Products Used: Camouflage: Medium Green=Tamiya XF-69 NATO Black + XF-26 Deep Green (1:1); Light Green: XF-67 NATO Green + XF-4 Yellow Green (3:2); XF-52 Flat Earth; XF-69 NATO Black Details: Vallejo Model Color acrylics 862 Black Grey, 909 Vermillion, 924 Russian Uniform, 950 Black, 951 White, 967 Olive Green, Crackle Medium; Vallejo Model Air acrylics 56 Black Grey, 60 Satin Varnish; Vallejo Model Air Metallic 62 Aluminum Other: Tamiya Spray Can AS-14 Olive Green; Gunze Sangyo Mr. Surfacer 1000; Future floor wax Bragdon Enterprises Ash, Dust Bowl Brown, and Weathered Brown weathering powders Graphite References: The earth blade and underside shows the Weathered Brown and Dust Bowl Brown weathering powders, applied dry, over wet Vallejo 60 Satin Varnish
distilled water and Future floor wax, outlines surface details and enhances contrast. The solid grillwork is thinned VMC 950 Black. The armour fence is Vallejo Model Color (VMC) 924 Russian Uniform. The headlight lenses are MV Products number L116. Orange and red reflectors are squares of styrene painted and glossed with Future floor wax. The back surfaces of the clear periscope parts are equal parts VMC 967 Olive Green and 951 White to simulate the reflected interior colour. Weathering powders from Bragdon Enterprises used both wet and dry, provide realistic textures and dirt effects. Mixed with distilled water, the powders remain fragile after drying, handy for removing with a paintbrush. Thinned with acrylic airbrush cleaner, the result is more permanent. Always test unfamiliar techniques with your favourite paints to avoid
problems. The layer of dried mud on the lower hull is Weathered Brown and Dust Bowl Brown weathering powder, applied over VMA 60 Satin Varnish. Black splatters from a paintbrush provide colour variation. The wheels’ rubber is VMC 862 Black Grey. The entire wheel then receives a wash of distilled water and Dust Bowl Brown weathering powder. The dry powder rubs away to reveal the underlying colours. Next, the inside rims receive a sprinkling of Weathered Brown weathering powder, adhered with VMA 60 Satin Varnish for a darker and wetter look. The tracks begin as VMA Metallic 62 Aluminum, brushed with VMC 862 Black Grey on the rubber pads. A mixture of Weathered Brown and Ash weathering powder and acrylic airbrush cleaner harmonizes the contrasting metallic and dark rubber surfaces.
Live S103C-Virginia Museum of Military Vehicles, Nokesville, VA, USA
The upper hull receives a similar weathering treatment as the suspension. A simple approach uses a wash of weathering powders dissolved in acrylic airbrush cleaner. A wet fan brush streaks the dusty layer on the sides, sealed by VMA 60 Satin Varnish. Metallic surfaces of the tools are VMC 924 Russian Uniform with graphite scratches. The tow cable is VMC 950 Back, washed with weathering powders, and rubbed with graphite. A Silver pencil picks out scratches on the earth moving blade and front tow shackles.
CONCLUSION
We are fortunate to finally have this revolutionary tank as a styrene kit. The camouflage and modifications to the suspension and armour protection challenged my skills but taught valuable lessons for future projects. •
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FEATURE ARTICLE: OKB GRIGOROV 1:72 SOVIET HEAVY ARTILLERY TRACTOR AT-T • KIT NO.72007
COLD WAR CARRIER Przemyslaw Szymczyk deals with some tiny parts on OKB Grigorov’s small scale AT-T Artillery Tractor.
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he Artilleriyskiy Tyagach Tyazholiy (meaning heavy artillery tractor), usually abbreviated to AT-T, was a Soviet Cold War era artillery tractor. The AT-T is based on the chassis and drive system from the T-54 Tank. However, the tub has been rotated through 180 °. Engine, clutch, gearbox, steering gear and the drive wheels are in the front of the vehicle. The crew cabin is also located in the front part of the vehicle. The cab is from the ZIS-150 and ZIL-164 truck.* There is always a nervous moment when purchasing a resin kit from manufacturer new to you because the quality can vary wildly. Some feature ultra sharp and detailed castings, but sometimes the parts look like a 5-year old child has made them from clay. Fortunately, the 1:72 scale AT-T Soviet tractor model from Bulgarian company, OKB Grigorov does not fall into the second category. The dozens of resin parts in the box look very good. Perhaps it is not the top of casting finesse, such as the products of Czech company Aires, but there are no major flaws, except for a slightly warped loading platform in my kit, but even this may be easily corrected by heating it. The manufacturer does not try to provide all the details in resin, adding three photo-etched etched frets with over 160 parts. With all this detail, the finished model should not be lacking finesse, although the multitude of small metal parts might be challenging for inexperienced modellers. The last element in the set is a piece of clear acetate with the printed shapes of windows. Instructions comprise a single page of A4 with three-dimensional computer-made drawings. They seem clear, but from time to time you can get confused for a moment.
Kit contents; the model is largely cast in resin, with photo-etched brass detail parts
Close-up view of the photo-etched brass sheet, showing the track guards and other sheet-metal parts
Views of the assembled model showing the resin and brass materials
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FEATURE ARTICLE: OKB GRIGOROV 1:72 SOVIET HEAVY ARTILLERY TRACTOR AT-T • KIT NO.72007
Here we can see where the creativity begins with this project; the cargo load
A head from a 1:16 Lenin figure was used as a statue head
ASSEMBLY
The very first stages of assembly can cause irritation and raise your blood pressure. That was certainly the case with this model. I found that building the chassis was far from trouble-free. Studs and suspension arm position fixing holes are barely indicated, and the etched teeth of drive sprockets simply do not fit the gaps in the tracks. I found it necessary to adjust the resin tracks by heating it, which results in slight distortion. Fortunately this is not very visible under the fenders. At this stage I adjusted the suspension to simulate standing on uneven surface. Fortunately, further assembly went without major problems, but the multitude of tiny photo-etched parts left me a little discouraged. It seems to me that some of these could be done in resin with no disadvantage to the model. Assembling these tiny elements needs doubled attention. The parts are extremely fragile, especially at the edges to be bent. In fact, we only get one chance as unfortunately there are no spares supplies. This really is too bad, as one bend is often enough to break the part. A better idea would have been to supply spares for the most complex and delicate parts. It is too easy to lose some of these parts too! Amazingly I managed to not to lose all the smallest parts, although I certainly spent a lot of time with my nose to the floor when I dropped something. To make painting easier, I assembled the cabin interior, the cabin itself and the chassis with the loading platform separately. I decided to lend extra interest by filling the loading platform with something. Not wanting to throw into the usual boxes, barrels and rolled-up blankets, after a long intellectual effort I finally managed a concept – to fill it with relics of a bygone era of communism. I started with the head of the leader of the revolution W.I. Lenin. I sculpted it with Fimo clay. I made part of arm from the same material. Next I added fragments of wire to represent reinforcement rods poking from inside the concrete statue. I cut the shape of the hammer and sickle from 0.5 mm polystyrene sheet and next, with two part epoxy putty, I made a raised edges. I filled the rest of the loading space with some unidentified stowage covered with some canvas made with mix of Magic Scup and Green Stuff, some barrels and flags tied together.
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Ex-Soviet era ‘souvenirs’ form the payload; Lenin’s head and a massive hammer and sickle
The outer roadwheels were left off to ease the painting of the tracks
An overall coat of grey primer seals in the differing materials
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PAINTING
I started painting as always – with an overall coat of grey Dupli Colour primer. Next I pre-shaded with dark brown Lifecolor paint. I did not try to make it very precise, otherwise I might suffer from some nasty overspray. It’s time to buy new airbrush - the old one is barely working! The next step was to paint the entire model with Dark Olive Lifecolor paint, and next a little colour modulation with addition of white, masking some areas with self-adhesive Post it Notes. At this stage I was not trying to finish the shading. That would require precise and timeconsuming masking, and it would be risky too, thanks to the tiny delicate photo-etched elements. Instead I decided to add the shading with a brush. I started with bright colour (a mix of "base" green with Buff and Basic Skintone from Vallejo’s acrylic range) brushed onto all the raised areas such as handles. By the way, I used the same bright colour for base of chipping. Later, most of the bright chips were filled with blend of Dark Rust colour and Skintone Ink from Vallejo. Later, I added discolouration and more contrast and other defects to the surface. I deepened the shading using Lifecolor paints from the Tensocrom series. I also brightened some parts, putting translucent vertical lines to represent stains and rainmarks. For contrast, I darkened some panels with burnt brown Tensocrom. Horizontal surfaces were dusted with AK Interactive enamels (Earth Dust effects and effects). Vallejo acrylic Buff was used to emphasise the places where dust accumulates, brightening them quite a bit. I also added fuel stains with AK Interactive’s Engine Grime. AK weathering powder was also used on tracks previously painted with Vallejo Track Primer colour. Now that painting of the vehicle was mostly done, I could take care of the load. By the way, it was wrong to separate painting of the vehicle and cargo - the subsequent fusion of colours of them require additional work, which would have been avoided if both elements were painted together and went through all the stages of weathering. I covered the cargo with primer, and then put on a grey paint. Elements of the monument would remain grey, so I shaded them only. I painted and shaded both tarpaulins with low saturated colours. At the end of painting I added some colours to them with diluted Vallejo inks too. I added rusty colours with a stiff brush to the hammer and sickle emblem from a Lifecolor set "Dust & Rust." Initially I thought that I might leave the emblem like that, but then I decided to experiment with AK "Heavy Chipping" fluid. Previously I always applied this with an airbrush, but this time I tried to apply both the fluid itself and the top layer of white paint with a brush. I was afraid that the application of acrylic paint with brush would melt the AK product, but quick brush strokes helped to avoid this problem. When dry, I scraped off part of the top layer with a damp stiff brush, then added some stains to enhance contrast. I painted and shaded the flags, and added a slightly different shades to the elements of the statue - acrylic filters were added for increased visual interest and to integrate the cargo with the rest of the vehicle. The model was ready. Now it was time to do the base.
The cabin sub-assembly in its coat of ‘Dupli’ grey primer
A rough layer of pre-shading using Lifecolor matt brown
Lifecolor Dark Olive was the first layer of green to go on
Some white was added to the Dark Olive to create some shading
Key areas of detail were highlighted with a pale shade of green
Further surface effects such as scoring and scratching were added using a fine-tipped paint brush
Some rust-coloured additions on corners where surface damage might occur
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FEATURE ARTICLE: OKB GRIGOROV 1:72 SOVIET HEAVY ARTILLERY TRACTOR AT-T • KIT NO.72007
BASE
I did not have a clear idea about a base, especially since the finished miniature seems to be more suited to an urban – industrial setting, but the suspension was set more for rough terrain. So, with 3mm balsa wood, I made an asymmetrical frame and added a layer of plaster, matching it to the suspension. Free space was filled with a length of fence. After numerous attempts testing forms and settings, I decided on a piece of damaged mesh based on a single post. I added a little wire from the top and the ground vegetation was made from sponge and Poison Ivy (Army Painter product). I covered the whole base with black primer, then painted the ground with shades of brown, and the plants with green and sand colours. I added a little gloss varnish in imitation of puddles ("Scenic Water" from Deluxe Materials). I glued the model to the base - as you would expect - but it was necessary to do a little extra work to ensure the blending of the running gear and the ground colours. AK enamels and bright shades of acrylics took care of the matter. I also added some real leaves, harvested in autumn, dried and ground. The vignette was now ready. •
Lifecolor Tensochrome Burnt Brown was used to create layers of dirt on the model’s exterior
A small, sloped rectangle of groundwork were constructed on which to show off the completed AT-T
MODELSPEC OKB GRIGOROV 1:72 SOVIET HEAVY ARTILLERY TRACTOR AT-T KIT NO.72007 Accessories and Materials Used: Magic Sculp Green Stuff Fimo Clay Army Painter – Poison Ivy Sponge Paints and Finishing Products Used: Dupli Colour Grey Primer Lifecolor Acrylic Paints Tensocrom Paints Vallejo Acrylic Paints Lifecolor – Dust and Rust Weathering Set AK Interactive Enamel Paints AK Interactive Heavy Chipping Fluid Deluxe Materials – Scenic Water High level of detail; good quality resin casting. Mismatched tracks and sprockets; some warpage; lots of tiny photo-etched parts. Rating: 7.5 out of 10 Historical summary courtesy of Wikipedia en.wikipedia.org/wiki/AT-T OKB Grigorov kits are available online from their website www.okbgrigorov.com
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In this shot we can see just how small this model is!
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Settle dust effects were built up on horizontal surfaces
The Soviet booty adds a unique touch of originality to the project
“With all this detail, the finished model should not be lacking finesse, although the multitude of small metal parts might be challenging for inexperienced modellers...” AFV Edition
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FEATURE ARTICLE: MINIART 1:35 SU-76M • Kit No. 35053
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he SU-76M self propelled gun was one of the most numerous vehicles in Red Army service during World War II. Over 14,000 of these vehicles were produced from 1943 onward. Only the legendary T-34 was produced in larger numbers.
THE MODEL
Ukrainian company MINIART offers a nice looking 1:35 scale kit of this interesting vehicle. There are two versions on the market – one as an original soviet type and the other as a captured by Germans type. This article shows the captured type with the No. 35053. The model is based on the MINIART kits of the light Soviet T-70 kits and Zis-3 anti-tank gun. By combining the two we have a good basis for the SU-76. The kit is made up from around 540 parts including the individual track links. The sheer number of parts is a clear indication of a complex kit. Fast building over a weekend is not really an option! However, the kit it is worth your time as it will result in a really nice looking model. As a bonus, five German crew figures are also included. Most of the parts are nicely moulded. Some of the smaller parts suffer a little flash that must be sanded off. Details moulding is very fine, so I replaced only a few parts and built this kit mainly from the box. Construction began with the suspension. There are some fit problems with the axles, because MINIART used the axles from their T-70 models but a different lower hull. You’ll have ti modify the axles to improve the fit. For more realism I also notched the road wheels with a sharp knife to give the impression of worn rubber. The next step is to assemble the upper hull. Here I began with the gun support (Part 32). Be aware of some fit problems in this step. If you follow the instructions, your gun will sit to low. In reality, the gun mount should be level with the top of the sidewalls. Next, I assembled the upper hull panel (part 99) and then the front armour panel (part 133). The side panels are nicely moulded to scale thickness. On the downside there are some pin marks inside so you must fill and sand these moulding imperfections. The fighting compartment is simple and there are no locating guides for the correct positions of the ammo racks and fuel tanks. To get an impression of the fighting compartment I used some pictures of the SU-76M at the Army Museum of the Bundeswehr at Dresden. These reference photos allowed me to scratch build a first aid kit and to open the pistol port in the sidewall. The complete assembly of the upper fighting compartment was done after painting and weathering the interior. I don’t think it is possible to paint the inside after you have assembled the sidewalls and the rear armour plate. Speaking of this area, my model had some fit trouble with the rear hull plate. I had to shorten it by about 4 mm. A nice option is that you can pose the rear door in an open or closed position.
RETURN
THE 76.2MM GUN
The 76.2mm anti-tank gun has a problem – the barrel is a little bit too long. If you can’t live within it is easy to correct. It should be shortened by about 3mm. The gun comes from the dedicated kit 35032 with slight modifications to fit the model.
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Military Illustrated Modeller - December 2014
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N TO SENDER Lars Richter adds some details to MiniArt’s 1:35 scale Su-76M kit.
AFV Edition
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FEATURE ARTICLE: MINIART 1:35 SU-76M • Kit No. 35053
The fit is not very good. It is necessary to fill and sand various gaps, especially the breech block, which has two large sinks marks. Take care and follow the instructions to avoid assembly problems. In particular, the gun shield demands a little bit of extra attention. I think the shield is to narrow, so I glued 5mm thick plastic card onto the kit part to improve the look. The typical weld beads were made with plastic rods and liquid glue. After drying, these were textured with an old scalpel blade. Once dry, a light sanding takes care of any sharp edges.
The model is largely built up in this view, complete with kit tracks. Note the photo-etched detail parts
THE TRACKS
Miniart offers individual track links. They are correct in dimension and fit perfectly. They are not workable though - the track links must be glued. I therefore decided to assemble the tracks around the running gear early in the assembly stage.
TIME FOR PAINTING
In preparation for painting I divided the model into separate components. It makes life –and painting - easier. I planned a hasty overpainted scheme to suggest a captured vehicle example – but differing from instructions camouflage pattern. I especially wanted to show three distinguishing marks: the original paint, the big German crosses on the Dark Yellow camouflage, and heavy weathering. At first I painted the inside of fighting compartment and the sidewalls with Tamiya acrylic XF-58 Olive Green. Some areas were highlighted with a mixture of XF-58 and XF-49 Khaki. Weathering was done with oil paints and pigments. After assembling the sidewalls and the rear hull plate, I gave the entire model a coat of thin XF-58 Olive Green. This was followed by a light overspray with XF-49 Khaki on the inner areas and especially on the top of the sides. I think this gives the model a first impression of depth and looks like more real than a monotone surface. The areas with the Balkenkreuz were masked off with masking tape. Once this was done, a coat of XF-60 Dark Yellow was sprayed over the exterior. Next I gave the model some light coats of XF-22 clear to protect the painting. The crosses are decals from the kit.
The fighting compartment walls and gun mantlet were built into separate sub-assemblies
WEATHERING
The first step of weathering was applying a filter. I used high a mixture of Humbrol Sand and Light Brown, which was heavily thinned. This mixture was applied with a brush. To improve the impression of depth, I also applied a mixture of oil paints and thinner. This was done mostly around details. A heavily used look was obtained by adding some streaks of white and yellow oil paints on the sidewalls. Chips were achieved by a mixture of different Vallejo paints. Rusty paint chips were made by using oil paints. I used an ordinary lead pencil to accentuate the corners and edges, representing the metal effect under worn paint. Dust on the vehicle was made by combining MIG and CMK pigments. Dry mud was concentrated on the lower hull. A mixture of several pigments was applied with an old brush. These pigments were fixed afterward with a thinner.
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‘In preparation for painting I divided the model into separate components. It makes life – and painting - easier.’
A weld-seam was added around the base of the gun, plastic card extension flanges to the rotorshield and lifting lugs from metal wire
Above and below; here we see the model temporarily taped together to check for fit of parts and to get an overall feel of how it’ll look
AFV Edition
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FEATURE ARTICLE: MINIART 1:35 SU-76M • Kit No. 35053
‘Fast building over a weekend is not really an option!’
Modelspec: MINIART SU-76M
KIT NO. 35053
Accessories and Modelling Products Used: 5mm plastic sheet Paints and Finishing Products Used: Tamiya Acrylics – X-22 Clear; XF-49 Khaki; XF-58 Olive Green; XF-60 Dark Yellow Humbrol Enamels – 63 Sand Matt; 119 Light Earth Vallejo Acrylic Paints Oil Paints Masking Tape 2B Lead Pencil MIG Productions and CMK Pigments (various) Nicely detailed; generally accurate; good quality link and length tracks Axles don’t match lower hull; wrong gun mount position indicated in instructions; some moulding imperfections and fit problems. RATING: 8 out of 10 MiniArt Kits are available from Creative Models Limited www.creativemodels.co.uk The small but effect scene suits the captured Soviet vehicle perfectly
The missing trackguard add a touch of individuality
Finally, the tracks also had a pigment treatment. I made a paste of pigments and thinner. Once dry, the excess pigments were removed away with a soft brush. I also decided to build a small base for this vehicle to give it more life. The crew members are from Alpine, and the Wehrmacht soldier is from Dragon. Vegetation was made with a mixture of woodland scenic products and some real vegetation from the garden. •
This view shows how small the SU-76 was
The roadside shrine adds a fantastic visual highlight
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MODELLING REFERENCES: CRUSADER GUN TRACTOR MK.I
CRUSADER GUN TRACTOR MK.I An interesting conversion on the Crusader tank, the Gun Tractor Mk.I
T
he Crusader Gun Tractor Mk.I was used in NW Europe from 1944 onwards and was used to tow the 17-pdr antitank gun. Here we see a Crusader Gun Tractor Mk.I with the War Department Number T12667 and named ‘Duntocher’. The vehicle is equipped with booster-type ‘fording kit’ and is towing a 17-pounder anti-tank gun along a street in Creully, near Bayeux. The fording kit is a standard kit for river crossing and amphibious landing, but the system seen here looks a little home-made (it looks like the upper front plate is a casting for hearth
fireplace complete with cast iron shield!) The badge on the left with a No.2 in the red/ blue square with white upper bar means that it is an AT (anti-tank) vehicle, a member of an Army Corps. The rectangular marking on the right was censored, but it’s either from the 6th Canadian AT Reg, 2nd Canadian Corps (6A/TRCA) or the Scottish 91st AT Reg, RA (ex 5bn of The Argyll and Sutherland Highlanders, which became the 91ATK Reg RA in in 1941) VIII Corps; most likely because the letter ‘C’ is not present before the WD number. Also, Duntocher is a village in Dunbartonshire, Scotland.
Accurate Armour
1:35 Crusader Gun Tractor conversion (C041) For the Crusader 17pdr Gun Tractor in model kit form, we have Accurate Armour’s extensive conversion set for the Italeri Crusader Tank kits (Mk-I to Mk-III). This resin and photo-etched set includes opening hatches, internal detail, stowage and crew weapons. www.accuratearmour.com •
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KIT PREVIEW: TAMIYA 1:35 TOYOTA MODEL AB PHAETON • Kit No. 35338
TOP BRASS TRANSPORT
Tamiya’s new 1:35 Toyota Model AB Phaeton staff car
T
he Toyota Model AB Phaeton is certainly not one of the motor manufacturer’s better known models (new or old), but it has its place in Japanese automotive history. The car was first exhibited in 1936 in Tokyo; the ‘AB’ model was the open-topped (phaeton) version of the Toyota Model ‘AA’ powered by a 3.4 litre straighteight engine. The car used leaf-spring suspension and hydraulic drum-brakes. 353 examples of the car were built by Toyota and most of them ended up in the hands of the Imperial Japanese military as staff cars, which is why Tamiya have created this new kit in 1:35. The model is an all-new tooling and it strikes a nice balance between complexity and ease of
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construction; there isn’t a full engine or openable doors/bonnet, which makes assembly much easier, but there is a full chassis with individual leaf springs, axles, driveshafts and lower engine (sump, gearbox) detail. The option to display the canvas roof in the up or down position and all the relevant parts are rendered with an extremely convincing, crumpled and folded fabric texture. The seats are beautifully moulded with all the plump, well upholstered style of a 1930s car and the cabin floor has a very fine texture that could suggest the presence of carpet. One criticism sometimes aimed at 1:35 car kits is the lack of foot-pedals, but not so here; we have accelerator, brake and clutch pedals individually
moulded, plus gear lever and handbrake, all to scale. The front wheels are moulded in the straightahead position which is unfortunate, but they can easily be bent for a more dynamic appearance. Finally, we are provided with a seated driver figure and he is very well sculpted, much better than usual. Overall then, this is very finely produced kit of a rare classic that has some military usage to keep things interesting. A 1:48 version would also be very welcome, to place alongside a collection of Zero fighters and others. Please note, this is a pre-production kit. The production models will be moulded in sand-coloured polystyrene. •
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Modelspec: KIT PREVIEW: TAMIYA 1:35 TOYOTA MODEL AB PHAETON KIT NO.35338 SCALE: 1:35 MATERIALS: IM, PC, WS Availability; Good model shops everywhere www.hobbyco.net MiM OPINION? An unusual and interesting subject with attractive raised/lowered soft-top options. Very fine detail, excellent driver figure and diorama potential.
AFV Edition
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BOOK REVIEWS HOW TO BUILD THE LEOPARD FAMILY IN 1:35 SPENCER POLLARD, ADH PUBLISHING www.adhpublishing.com The Leopard tank is a long-running series of vehicles and thus easily justifies a book covering its evolution. In Spencer Pollard’s new volume, we are presented with no less than seven full build chapters on 1:35 Leopard variants; Meng’s 1A3/4, Royal Dutch Army Armoured Engineer Vehicle (Perfect Scale Modellbau’s Bergepanzer 2, converted to Dutch spec) Revell’s 2A4, Tamiya 2A6M with add-on camouflage, hybrid Tamiya/Hobbyboss Danish 2A5DK, Takom C2 Leopard MEXAS plus a second MEXAS build using Real Model’s detail set. To accompany the model builds, we have numerous full-size reference photos and exhaustive texts to describe the modelling processes seen in the photo sequences. The author has produced an outstanding book here and anyone who likes this Cold War main battle tank will relish the modelling projects within. MN
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NEW in the ‘HOW TO BUILD...’ series HOW TO BUILD... TAMIYA’S ARMOUR KITS IN 1:35 Though the modelling world is awash with an incredible variety of military vehicle kits from a huge number of different companies, one stands head and shoulders above the others in terms of originality, buildability and fun. That company is Tamiya, who have consistently provided the budding enthusiast with some of the finest kits available in the scale of 1:35. This new book brings together five detailed features that will show what is possible from this extensive range of kits. In so doing, it offers hints and tips, detailed step-by-step guides and written descriptions on all manner of techniques from basic construction, through detailing, painting and realistic weathering. No stone is left unturned in the quest to inspire the modeller to complete similar projects for themselves. It really is a one-stop-shop for the budding military modeller! Within its 84 pages you will five find features that take you through the construction and painting of the ‘Easy Eight’ Sherman, Nashorn, Elefant, Gama Goat and Tiran 5, all expertly put together by our renowned team of authors, Spencer Pollard, Brett Green and Marcus Nicholls, who have created one of the finest collections of modelling features ever published, on this famous range of kits. This then is the world of Tamiya’s wonderful 1:35 military vehicle kits plus p&p – we hope that you enjoy your visit!
Only
£12.95
ALSO AVAILABLE Visit adhbooks.com for details PLACE YOUR ORDER NOW ON TEL: 01525 222573 FAX: 01525 222574
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MODELLING REFERENCES: AUSTIN MOTOR COMPANY AUSTIN CHAMP
AUSTIN CHAMP Rear-view of the radio stack showing the case construction and rear brackets.
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T
he Austin Champ was the civilian version of a British Army vehicle made by the Austin Motor Company. The army version was officially known as “Truck, 1/4 ton, CT, 4×4, cargo & FFW, Austin Mk.1” however the civilian name ‘Champ’ was universally, if unofficially, applied to it. The vehicle was manufactured from 1951 to 1956 and an impressive 13,000 were built. In these images, we see a beautifully restored example of a radio car, seen at the 2013 War and Peace Revival show in Folkestone, Kent UK. Text source, Wikimedia. •
The close-up view of the radio gear shows just how complex and cumbersome 1950s communications gear could be.
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You can tell it’s a British vehicle by its righthand drive layout. The dashboard is simple but functional.
AFV Edition
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For the serious Modeller Issue 42
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modeller Next Issues military illustrated
ISSUE No.044 December 2014
Aircraft Edition - Brett Green AFV Edition - Marcus Nicholls Publisher; Alan Harman Graphic Design; Alex Hall, Colin Trundle Advertising Manager; Gareth Liddiatt Advertising Assistant; Joe Brown Office Manager; Paula Gray Administration Manager; Hannah McLaurie MIM Website; ADH Web Team Editors;
Military Illustrated Modeller Issue 45 - Aircraft Edition on sale 18 December, 2014 SPITFIRE REFRESHED
Brett Green builds and improves the brand new 1:32 scale Revell Spitfire Mk.IIa.
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Three 1:32 scale Wingnut Wings Fokker D.VIIs by Leo Stevenson
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SERBIAN T-55
Concluding his 1:35 Trumpeter MAZ537 feature from way back in Issue No.002, Zachary Sex describes the creation of the transporter’s load, a modified T-55 © ADH Publishing 2014
SOLDER ON!
A techguide on small-scale soldering for armour modellers, by Adam Wilder
...AND MORE! AFV Edition
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SIGN OFF – FINAL THOUGHTS FROM THE EDITOR
DIORAMAS YOU
MUST BUILD
BEFORE YOU DIE... PREPPING THE ‘105
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E
ngland, June, 1944 and this 105mm howitzer – part of the 32nd Field Artillery – is being prepared for amphibious activity; Operation Overlord. The rear face of the gunshield bears the names ‘Troina’ and ‘Oran’. Also, note the yellow rectangle painted on the shield. For waterborne landings, the gun breech and other elements have been sealed using an asbestos paste (which sounds highly dangerous in retrospect) and this will completely scraped off before firing. The gunner is perched over the barrel and we can see from his helmet, he is from the First Infantry Division, ‘The Big Red One’. In 1:35, Dragon offer an excellent injectionmoulded kit of the 105mm howitzer and the figures could be tweaked from existing sets.
[email protected] See you again next time!
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Tamiya Model Magazine International Vol 230