modeller military illustrated
£6.50 - Oct’15 (issue 054)
1:35 M18 Hellcat • 1:72 Sd.Kfz.222 • PaK40 AT guns • HEMTT refs • and more…
www.militaryillustratedmodeller.com
HIDDEN IN THE SNOW
9 770268 832071
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AFV edition
DRAGON’S 1:35 T34-76 MOD. 1941 IN FULL WINTER SCHEME
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Contents 24
modeller m military illustrated milit
ISSUE No.054 October 2015
44
4 6 8
NEWS
Military model product news
‘TEN HUT!
Sixteen new military kits on parade
‘AMPS INTERNATIONAL MODELING SHOW 2015’
MiM visits the AMPS show; here’s a photo-report from the event
16 ORDNANCE DEPOT
New and recent accessory sets and modelling materials
18 PAK IT IN!
This issue, Angus Creighton takes on a pair of AFV Club’s Pak40 AT guns
24 LIKE A CAT ‘OUTA HELL!
José Brito describes the construction and painting of AFV Club’s 1:35 M18 Hellcat
30 HIDDEN IN THE SNOW
44
Some effective techniques on to create a realistic winter whitewash on a T-34
38 STREET FIGHTERS US anti-tank gunners in action
40 FROZEN IN TIME
More winter fun with Dragon’s 1:72 Sd.Kfz.222
44 GET OUT YA DODGE!
Modelling Mig Productions’ 1:48 Dodge Weapons Carrier
50 HEAVY EXPANDED MOBILITY TACTICAL TRUCK IN AFGHANISTAN References for modelling the US Army’s HEMTT trucks
56 HORCH 108
ICM’s new 1:35 kit of the Horch staff
58 IMPERIAL JAPAN’S FLOATING BOX
Dragon’s tiny but delicious 1:72 ‘Amphibious Tank Type 2 Ka-Mi’
60 BOOK REVIEWS
Military model-related book reviews
62 DESTRUCTION IN THE RONCEY POCKET
A street-scene from Roncey, Normandy 1944
66 SIGN OFF
Dioramas to build before you die…
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News NEWS JUST IN...
TAKOM
1:35 CHIEFTAIN TANKS
DRAGON
Hinted at last issue, Takom have now confirmed the release of at least three brand-new, 1:35 kits of the British Cold-War bruiser, the Chieftain tank. So far, the Mk.5/P, Mk.10 and Mk.11 are coming, but we hope more versions might follow. Happy times for post-war heavy armour! www.pocketbond.co.uk
RYE FIELD MODEL 1:35 TIGER I AUSF.E
The other big news this month is the release of a new-tool Tiger I ausf.E 1:35, from Chinese newcomers, Rye Field Model. The model depicts the Initial Production variant that joined combat in Tunisia 1943 and it’ll be very interesting to see how it sizes up against the Dragon kit. www.ryefield-model.com
TRUMPETER 1:35 NEW RELEASES Trumpeter have three new Soviet vehicles on the way in the form of the BRDM-2 NBC Late, T-62 Mod 1960 Iraq type and the 2S7 Selfpropelled Gun. Some tempting weathering ‘targets’ there... www.pocketbond.co.uk
BRACH MODEL 1:35 NEW RELEASES
1:35 US M60A2 ‘Starship’ 1:35 M270A1 MLRS 1:35 Sturmpanzer Ausf. 1 Befehlspanzer w/ zimmerit 1:35 Pz.Beob. Wg.V Panther mit 5cm KwK.39 1:35 Sd.Kfz.234/4 mit 7.5cm L/48 1:35 Pz.Bef.Wg.IV ausf.J w/zimmerit hobbyco.net
EDUARD
1:35 photo-etch for Tamiya Somua S35 1:35 photo-etch for ICM T-34-76 Early eduard.com
REVELL
New in 1:35 from Italian manufacturer Brach is the... Deep breath... ‘15cm-sFH13/1 auf Geschutzwagen Lorraine-S(f) (Sd.Kfz 135/1) Becker (Normandy)’, and the snappier titled ‘DW2 with Pz.IV turret’ prototype vehicle. Expect great detail and fine castings. www.brachmodel.it
1:35 German Engineers WWII revell.de/en
RODEN
1:72 FWD Model B 3-ton Lorry WWI pocketbond.co.uk
TAMIYA
1:35 German Africa Corps Luftwaffe Artillery Crew Set hobbyco.net
ICM
1:35 NEW RELEASES
New from ICM of Ukraine is the late-1943 production T-34-76, Greek Evzones troops (1940-41) and WWI Italian infantry (1915), all in 1:35. www.hannants.co.uk
THIS MONTH IN TAMIYA MODEL MAGAZINE… 1:35 RG-31 MRAP
This month’s edition of Tamiya Model Magazine (October, No.240) features a detailed article on Kinetic’s highly detailed 1:35 RG-31 MRAP vehicle. Order now at; www.tamiyamodelmagazine.com
MINIART 1:35 NEW RELEASES
This Ukrainian manufacturer has a rather splendid GAZ-03-30 bus on the way, which comes with various markings for different bus lines – ideal for dioramas. Also on the way in 1:35 is the German artillery set, a five-figure pack in injection plastic with great animation and detail, plus ammo cases.
www.creativemodels.co.uk
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ULTIMATE 1/6th SCALE ALL METAL KITS Ma de in
W I T H
d
A S S O C I A T I O N
lan
g En
I N
TANKMOD 2015
Model Exhibition in partnership with Armortek. The Tank Museum - October 10th 2015 10am - 4:30pm
Armortek customers and their models at the Tank Museum 2013.
Come and see Tiger 131 and the Armortek 1/6th scale model The Tank Museum will be inviting exhibitors from across the country to take part in its model exhibition.
WORLD RECORD ATTEMPT
For event information contact: The Tank Museum, Bovington, Dorset, BH20 6JG www.tankmuseum.org 01929 462359
Build your very own ‘Tiger 131’ The finest Tiger 1 kit to date
Sd.Kfz.181 Panzerkampfwagen VI Ausf E
Visit our web site for more details on the Armortek Tiger 131 Kit www.armortek.co.uk | e-mail:
[email protected] | Telephone: +44 (0) 1404 892956 22 Flightway Business Park, Dunkeswell, Devon. EX14 4RD
Illustration and graphic design by www.studiomitchell.co.uk
Now in its second year, the Tank Museum will be joining forces with ARMORTEK for a day which promises to be packed full of amazing models!
Recognised by Guinness World Records, Armortek with their Records customers will be bringing together the largest collection of 1/6th scale armour tanks in the world in this unique world record attempt.
‘TEN HUT! BRONCO, HONG KONG
BRONCO, HONG KONG
1:35 PACK HOWITZER M1A1 (BRITISH AIRBORNE VERSION) AND GUN CREW
1:35 PANZERBEFEHLSWAGEN 35(t)
ITEM NO.CB35173 www.hannants.co.uk
ITEM NO.CB35205 www.hannants.co.uk
The purposeful-looking M1A1 Pack Howitzer is coupled with a five-man crew of British Paras in this release, making a potentially superb vignette, all in one box
Bronco’s excellent Pz35(t) gets a ‘bedframe’ aerial on its rear deck plus a radio rack and large radio set in its interior, creating this command version. Superb detail all round with full fighting compartment detail
BRONCO, HONG KONG
BRONCO, HONG KONG
1:35 RUSSIAN HEAVY TANK KV-85
1:35 VERSUCHSFLAKWAGEN FUR 8.8CM FLAK.37 AUF SONDERFAHRGESTELLE (PZ.SFL.IVC)
ITEM NO.CB35110 www.hannants.co.uk
The box of this new release houses an impressive pile of sprues to create a stunning miniature of this WW2 Soviet heavy tank. Fabulous detail and link-length tracks feature
ITEM NO.CB35174 www.hannants.co.uk
This is the second iteration of Bronco’s Versuchsflakwagen, this version coming with the 88mm Flak.37 gun (courtesy of Dragon Models). The 8.8cm-armed machine looks very interesting and Bronco’s kit is very well put together. Tracks will need methodical assembly
DRAGON, HONG KONG
ITALERI, ITALY
1:35 PANZERJÄGER II FÜR PAK40/2 MARDER II EARLY PRODUCTION
1:72 WATERLOO 200 BATTLE AT LA HAYE SAINTE
A popular subject and a much-wanted kit that features all the modern refinements you’d expect from Dragon. Features updated deck area and Dragon Magic Tracks, plus a small photo-etched brass fret
With the recent 200th anniversary of Waterloo, this set is well timed. British Infantry, British 95th RGT Green Jackets, French Line Infantry and French Imperial Guard Artillery (X2 sprues each) plus the ‘La Haye Sainte’ farm buildings formed from laser-cut board
REVELL, EUROPE
TAMIYA, JAPAN
1:72 PANTHER AUSF.D/AUSF.A
1:35 BRITISH ARMY M3 GRANT
ITEM NO.6769 www.hobbyco.net
ITEM NO.03107 www.revell/de/en
To truly build either an ausf.A or ausf.D from this kit, you’ll need to do your research to ensure the traits of either variant are correct. The kit is sharply detailed with link and length tracks
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Some of the latest military kits to drop onto the Military Illustrated Modeller reviews desk
ITEM NO.6111 www.hobbyco.net
ITEM NO.35041 www.hobbyco.net
This kit is over forty years old but still looks good and is a quick, easy build. The only problem is with the tracks, whose end-connectors sit squarely on each link rather than straddling two links to join them together
Military Illustrated Modeller - October 2015
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Materials: IM: injection-moulded R: resin PE: photo-etch WS: waterslide decals SVT: soft vinyl tracks/tyres AT: articulated tracks ITL: individual track links PBM: pre-built model VF: vacuum-formed AGB: alloy gun barrel MW: metal wire CPF: clear plastic film
TRUMPETER, CHINA
ZVEZDA, RUSSIA
1:35 CZECH T-72M4CZ MBT
1:35 SOVIET ARMY 1.5 TON TRUCK
Within the box is all you need to build a very highly detailed 1:35 replica of this good-looking machine, thanks to the punchy moulded parts and incredibly fine raised and recessed detail. An ‘all-in-one-box’ solution for an accurate and detailed model of this Soviet-era MBT
A useful kit for dioramas and smaller vignettes, with some neat touches of detail. Not as refined as MiniArt’s GAZ AA kits and there’s some rather heavy shot-blast texturing on the front wings and cabin exterior
ZVEZDA, RUSSIA
ICM, UKRAINE
1:35 TERMINATOR RUSSIAN FIRE SUPPORT COMBAT VEHICLE
1:35 PANHARD 178 AMD-35
ITEM NO.05595 www.pocketbond.co.uk
ITEM NO.3636 www.hobbyco.net
ITEM NO.3602 www.hobbyco.net
ITEM NO.35373 www.hannants.co.uk
Zvezda’s Terminator kit is a complex production, with cleverly designed link/length tracks (separately moulded strips of guide horns) and masses of exterior detail. Great moulding quality, lots of detail and a mean-looking model will result
New from ICM is this handsome, French-built armoured car which served with the French army until the Blitzkrieg of May 1940. The kit is covered with sharp detail and comes with a decent interior, including engine and (two) drivers’ positions
TAMIYA, JAPAN
ICM, UKRAINE
1:48 GERMAN 3 TON 4X2 CARGO TRUCK
1:35 ZiL-131 KshM SOVIET ARMY VEHICLE
This is an entirely new kit from Tamiya, not an Italeri re-box. The model comes with a separate ladderchassis, suspension and drivetrain parts, plus wood-textured cargo deck, individually moulded tools and a driver figure
ICM have created the command version of the mass-produced ZiL-131 Soviet truck and a good-looking model it is too. Moulded in sand-coloured polystyrene, the kit comes with a detailed cabin and chassis. Plenty of parts for the enthusiastic truck modeller to get stuck into
ITEM NO.32585 www.hobbyco.net
ITEM NO.35517 www.hannants.co.uk
ICM, UKRAINE
ICM, UKRAINE
1:35 GURKHA RIFLES (1942-1944)
1:35 ANZAC INFANTRY (1915)
With sheathed and unsheathed kukri knives, this set replicates the details of the iconic Gurkha Regiment of the British Army superbly well. Posed as though on patrol, the figures are naturalistically sculpted, and carry excellent detail. A superb subject choice
In tribute to the Australian and New Zealand Army Corps, this set of four figures from the 1915 period depicts the men in standing poses, walking, using a trench periscope and standing on guard. Detail is impressive; ideal for a WW1 diorama
ITEM NO.35563 www.hannants.co.uk
ITEM NO.35685 www.hannants.co.uk
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MODEL SHOW REPORT: ARMOR MODELING AND PRESERVATION SOCIETY SHOW 2015
AMPS INTERNATIONAL MODELING SHOW 2015 Sean Lynch visits this year’s AMPS show and brings us a photo-report from the event
E
ach year the Armor Modeling and Preservation Society (AMPS) hosts its annual International Modeling Show. The show’s primary focus is on armour models, though military figures and sci-fi related to armour can be seen as well. Along with models on display, seminars are given that range from armour preservation efforts to armour modelling techniques and research. A large is a set up for vendors to sell the latest and greatest in regards to kits, aftermarket products, reference materials and supplies. In addition, after-hours mixers are set up to encourage members to mingle and share ideas. The show moves the venue each year. The 2015 show was at the National Military History Center’s WWII Victory Museum in Auburn, Indiana in the United States. The museum allowed the model displays to be set up amongst the vehicles in the museum, which provided a fantastic opportunity to see a scale models next to their real life counterparts. If you would like to find out more about AMPS please go to their website; http://amps-armor.org/ampssite/shows.aspx •
The Leica camera around this soldier’s neck is very well done
A very well laid-out diorama featuring a crashed Mil Mi-24 Hind
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Subtle weathe
ring is in evide
nce on this Pz
38(t)
A hint of the Vietnam War in this model; a trackless Bradley atop an up-armoured truck
A convincingly executed winter whitewash treatment on this T-34-76
A tidy SU-76i here, a Soviet conversion based on the German Pz.III tank
Two views of this LVT(A)5 named ‘Saltwater Cowboy’ show its beautifully executed paint scheme
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MODEL SHOW REPORT: ARMOR MODELING AND PRESERVATION SOCIETY SHOW 2015
The Sherman Firefly is always a popular subject and this example was nicely presented
A pleasingly dusty, bleached-out finish on this M4 Sherman; the Thompson sub-machine gun atop the turret is a nice touch
Japanese Type 89 tank in a subtle camouflage scheme and light weathering
10
2014 saw a mini surge of Mk.IV tank kits; Tamiya, Takom, Meng and of course, Emhar all offer them. The vehicle is a popular modelling subject
Above and below; Czech Army T-34-76 makes a nice change from Soviet examples. Note the German fuel can on the hull side
The Czech T-34 is fitted with a variety of roadwheels, including one that appears to be from a German Panther tank
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A eye-catching display of a Pacific Sherman climbing a PSP ramp. Note the many add-ons for this tank
Churchill AVRE with its petard mortar in the loading position
A restrained
finish on this
T-34-76 show
s off its outli
ne well
The snow in the folds of the canvas cover on this Marder IIIM are the crucial touch that bring the model to life
An interesting prototype machine; the VK4502(P) with forward-mounted turret
Meng’s Char 2C is an imposing beast and this example was well weathered
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MODEL SHOW REPORT: ARMOR MODELING AND PRESERVATION SOCIETY SHOW 2015
The Merkava is a popular modelling subject and this is a very well executed example
A very interesting subject here, in the form of the Israeli Defence Force ‘Kilshon’ AGM-45 Shrike launcher tank, based on the M-51 hull and running gear
A novel presentation of the DUKW, with some beach-bathers in the background!
A very realistic treatment on this Iranian Army Chieftain tank
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This magnificent bust depicts a member of the 101st Airborne ‘Screaming Eagles’ with the famous Mohawk haircut
Plenty of stowage on this winterised Pz.III ‘32’
A Mine Resistant Ambush Protected vehicle, with a restrained weathering treatment
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Anti-RPG bar armour surrounds this LAV, giving it an angular profile
A suitably grimy T-72 here, with splashed-up mud on the side-skirts, fuel-leaks and more
A very cool conversion of an up-armoured LMTV into a fuel truck
The US M42 ‘Duster’ here, with an effective, multi-layered, dirtying-down treatment
A marvellously colourful treatment for this modern-day ‘technicals’ pickup truck, with an improvised rocket launcher installation in its rear deck
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MODEL SHOW REPORT: ARMOR MODELING AND PRESERVATION SOCIETY SHOW 2015
Multiple greens and black camouflage help to break up the profile of this modern era T-90 Soviet MBT
The Flakpanzer variant of the Jagdpanzer 38(t) is a very appealing modelling subject and this one is superb
A dramatic scene with an M26 Pershing, in Germany 1945 with multiple figures and some effective groundwork
Small-scale Type 90 with an immaculate JGSDF brown/green scheme
A mortar variant of the LAV with some well represented stowage items
usual subject,
an un battle tank is ZTZ99 main re The Chinese well done he ry ve me sche paint digital
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with a tricky
to
Military Illustrated Modeller - October 2015
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A frontal view of the T-72 from earlier in this show report. Great shading and weathering
The up-armoured variant of the Pz.III is a very attractive subject, amply proved by this stunning model
The classic Sturmpanzer IV is an evergreen subject and this is a tidy example
A dramatic World War One diorama here, featuring trenches and an FT-17 tank
Rounding off this show report is this very impressive build of the Stryker Infantry Combat Vehicle, with additional antennae, IED device and rolls of razor wire. Excellent work
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ORDNANCE DEPOT New and recently issued kits and accessory sets for armour modelling projects
AK INTERACTIVE, SPAIN
MODELLING MATERIALS
N
ew paint sets from AK Interactive include a series of lacquer-based metallic colours named at ‘Xtreme Metal’ and we’ve received four colours for review. The paints seem finely grained and are ready to spray from the bottle. More news on these as we use them! Also new is AK’s superb matt varnish, one of the best airbrush-ready varnishes we’ve used. The company’s acrylic thinner is formulated for the acrylic paints and is thus an essential purchase if you use AK’s paints. MN
Xtreme Cleaner (AK470) Xtreme Metal Black Base (AK471) ● Xtreme Metal Brass (AK475) ● Xtreme Metal Aluminium (AK479)
Xtreme Metal Dark Aluminium (AK480) Acrylic Thinner (AK712) ● Ultra Varnish Matte (AK183) ● Nitro Thinner (AK268)
●
●
●
●
AMMO, MIG JIMENEZ, SPAIN PAINT SET
T
his paint-pack is so logical, it’s amazing no-one has thought of doing it before! In the box we have six acrylic paints that match the colours commonly found on ammunition of WW2, from 88mm rounds to small arms ammo. The paints can be applied by brush and airbrush and dry quickly to a smooth finish. Excellent! ●
WWII Ammunition Colors (A.MIG 7124)
DEF MODEL, KOREA 1:35 MODELLING ACCESSORIES
D
EF Model’s newly released wheel/tyre sets include a pack of six wheel/ tyre castings for Dragon’s recent 1:35 Saladin Mk.2 armoured car, each featuring a subtle, ‘weighted’ bulge where the vehicle’s weight presses down on the tyre. Also new in this range is a set of eight new wheels/ tyres for Meng’s 1:35 Cougar US 6X6 MRAP and a whole suite of add-ons for Academy’s T-34-85 kit.
● Saladin Mk.2 wheel set sagged (DW35079) for Dragon ● GAZ-66 Russian 4X4 light military truck wheel set – sagged (DW35077) for Trumpeter ● BTR-40 Russian armoured personnel carrier wheel set – sagged (DW35076) for Trumpeter ● Cougar US 6X6 MRAP wheel set – sagged (DW35074) for Meng ● T-34-85 basic PE detail-up set (DE35010) ● T-34-85 barrel/mantlet set (DM35044) ● T-34-85 Factory No.112 Type detail-up set (DM35045) ● T-34-85 Mod.1943 D-5T main gun conversion set (DM35046) ● T-34-85 Mod.1944 D-5T main gun conversion set (DM35047)
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LIFECOLOR, ITALY PAINT SET
L
ifecolor have produced a set of five matt acrylic paints in their customary 22ml. pots, plus a pot of pigment powder comprising Blackened Umber, Exhausted Umber, Rusted Umber, Burned Stains, and Incinerated White. These range from black to white, through a variety of rusty colours, and would be ideal for a vehicle which has burned and then been exposed to the elements. CLS ●
Burned – Acrylic Paints For Burnt-Out Vehicles (CS29)
Military Illustrated Modeller - October 2015
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EDUARD, MASTERPIECE CZECH REPUBLIC 1:35 PHOTO-ETCHED SETS
E
duard’s newest releases include photo-etched sets for Tamiya’s 1:35 Gama Goat vehicle plus the new Somua S35, providing some very useful additional details that will help improve the base kit. ICM’s new T-34-76 receives a sheet of fine metal parts too. T-34-76 (36323) for ICM Somua S35 (36322) for Tamiya ● Gama Goat (36321) for Tamiya ● ●
MODELS, USA MODELLING TOOLS & MATERIALS
N
ew from this Washington State-based producer is the intriguingly named ‘The Corr-U-Gator’ tool, for the creation of 1:35 corrugated iron sheeting. Nicely cast parts in grey resin offering a very quick and effective way to create corrugated sheets for dioramas. Also new from Masterpiece are packs of fine-grain, hobby-grade cork in 25.5cm x 12.5cm sheets. The texture of this small-grain cork mimics stone and brick rather well and when painted creatively, is an ideal material for walls, bridges and other masonry in dioramas. MN The Corr-U-Gator scale corrugated iron tool 1:35 (MMTL002) Fine Grain Hobby Cork 1.5mm x3 sheets (MMCRK-001) ● Fine Grain Hobby Cork 3mm x3 sheets(MMCRK-002) ● Fine Grain Hobby Cork 6mm x3 sheets(MMCRK-003) ● Fine Grain Hobby Cork 1.5/3/6mm x1 sheets each (MMCRK-004) ● ●
HAULER, CZECH REPUBLIC 1:35/1:48 MODELLING ACCESSORIES
N
ew items from this provider of exquisite detail sets include four 1:35 steel barrels and various US ammo boxes in resin. In 1:48, Tamiya’s Krupp with 3.7cm Pak receives two sheets of brass parts, providing window frames, tread-plates, dashboard and other useful upgrades. The 3.7cm Pak gets a new gun-shield in front/back halves, and more. Finally, Airfix’s 1:48 Bedford MWD Light Truck also gets some essential etched parts that will really give it an edge. MN 1:35 Steel Barrels (HLU35083) 1:35 US Ammo boxes 75mm (HLU35082) ● 1:48 Kfz.69 Krupp w/3.7cm Pak (HLX48361) for Tamiya ● 1:48 Bedford MWD Light Truck (HLX48362) for Airfix ● ●
WHERE TO BUY? AK INTERACTIVE; www.creativemodels.co.uk AMMO, MIG jimenez; www.migjimenez.com DEF MODEL; www.defmodel.com www.insidethearmour.com
EDUARD; www.eduard.com www.creativemodels.co.uk www.hannants.co.uk HAULER; www.hauler.cz LIFECOLOR; www.airbrushes.com MASTERPIECE MODELS; www.masterpiecemodels.com
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FEATURE ARTICLE: AFV CLUB 1:35 AFV CLUB 7.5CM PAK40 L46 • KIT NO.35071
PAK IT IN! This issue, Angus Creighton takes on a pair of AFV Club’s 7.5cm L46 ‘Panzerabwehrkanone 40’ (Pak 40) kits
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!
B
y the late 1930s, the German military feared that the 37mm anti-tank gun would sooner or later become obsolete, so development of larger 50mm and 75mm antitank weapons commenced. Early success with the 37mm Pak36 and subsequent 50mm Pak38 meant that the program to produce the 75mm replacement was slow. All changed with the invasion of the Soviet Union in 1941 and the sudden realisation that KV and T34 tanks were invulnerable to current antitank canons. The Pak40 instantly became a high priority, with the first examples arriving in numbers in the spring of 1942. From then on, production increased until by 1945, the Pak40 was used an all fronts as well as being mounted on numerous vehicles. By the end of the war, over 20,000 Pak40s had been completed. AFV Club released their version of this important gun in 2004 if I remember correctly. A stand out feature was the pre-formed brass shield that would replicate the spaced armour more accurately than any similar kit. I started construction with the barrel, muzzle and breech assembly. Here plastic parts are assembled ‘around’ the turned aluminium barrel. Once cleaned up and join seams removed, a dab of cyano glue ensures they won’t rotate out of line. The aluminium barrel is highly polished which can result in any paint not adhering. A swift abrading with a nail polisher dulls the surface enough to form a key for later painting. Only one pattern of muzzle brake is included, albeit possibly the most common. It is however possible to sand the circular secondary flange down to create a commonly encountered alternative pattern, as seen on one of the finished models here. The breech is accurately represented, with a well-detailed breech block. This allows the modeller to install the part in the open position, while remembering to install the block handle pulled back into the open position. Moving to the gun cradle, delicate rivet detail is included throughout, however there are a couple of visible punch marks on the inner sidewalls. They could also be thinner and the riveted slide rail better defined. Careful sanding is required, remaking the rails with plastic card. The rivets will need to be removed first and reinstated once the sidewalls are reworked. The trunnions and associated elevation and traverse hand wheel mechanisms all benefit from a few additional rivets and grease nipples but are otherwise well represented. Both the elevation and traverse wheel benefit from new longer handles from 0.4mm plastic rod. The fire button is mounted
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FEATURE ARTICLE: AFV CLUB 1:35 AFV CLUB 7.5CM PAK40 L46 • KIT NO.35071
in the centre of the elevation wheel and this can be added from plastic rod, sanded to the correct shape. From the base of the elevation mechanism, a Bowden cable (similar to the brake cable on a push bike) ran to the firing box mounted on the left side of the gun cradle. This feature should be added using 0.2mm fuse wire.
SHIELDING THE GUN
The spaced gun shield is provided as a pair of prefolded etched brass parts, with the strengthening rib seen on the rear included on a simple etched fret. To join the inner and outer shield, tiny plastic spacers are provided in the kit. AFV Club also produces a supplementary set of turned brass parts that were used here. These can be glued to the inner shield using cyano glue along with the gun sight shutters - here made from plastic card. The outer shield can then be added. An alternative is to solder the bolts to the inner shield, then solder the outer shield in top. The advantage here is that the solder that fixed the bolts to the inner shield re-melts and the bolts ‘reposition’ themselves to perfectly align with both inner and outer shield. The downside of soldering is that you will have to insert the gun sight shutters after joining the shields which is a fiddly task but not impossible. Don’t forget to add the shutter levers with plastic rod, to the rear of each shutter. The chassis provided in the kit is well detailed with most major features included. Ensuring all suspension components are aligned correctly is critical, as any parts that are assembled out of line will result in the main wheels sitting at an odd angle. I deviated from the suggested build sequence by adding the main wheel swinging arms to the drum break assemblies to create finished sub-assemblies. These can then be slotted over the chassis torsion bars. The latter are mounted on flat square plates that attach to the sides of the chassis and it is here that the greatest care is needed to ensure they are perfectly in line. When you finally add the swinging arm and brake assemblies, if you find the wheels are still not in line, the torsion bars can be gently bent to compensate before the swinging arms are glued in place.
The kit’s double-layer gun shield comes in the form of pre-folded photo-etched brass parts. The author added internal shutters for the gunsight window
Above and below; views of the gun breech and mount, revealing some key detail enhancements made by the author
BRAKING BAD
The brake assemblies include the pneumatic slave cylinders on the rear of each brake drum and these need to be piped to the master cylinder mounted on the fixed section of the folding shield. With the original swinging arms moving up and down, the pneumatic pipes were of flexible rubber and these are replicated on the model using 0.4mm lead wire. Where each ‘pipe’ enters the slave cylinder, I added resin ‘hex’ nuts by Calibre35. One pipe joins the rear of the slave cylinder, while the second is mounted on the side. The master cylinder has two pipes that run to fixed unions on the horizontal chassis members, into which one pair of the slave cylinder flexible pipes are attached. The other two flexible pipes are connected to a fixed pipe that spans the chassis, completing the circuit. 0.2mm fuse wire is used to recreate the ‘fixed’ piping from the master cylinder to the fixed unions, plus again resin ‘hex’ nuts. The final detail is a three way union that sits in front of the right hand training leg hinge that connects the chassis circuit to the flexible hose that runs inside the trailing leg, terminating at the valve connector mounted in front of the rear spade. The convoy light mount has been remade in plastic card to replicate the hollow construction,
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The moulded wheels come with flexible vinyl tyres which themselves carry sidewall detail
The author added brake lines running to the moulded brakes, as well as solid lines from the air-cylinder, above right
This view shows the rigid brake lines plus the new bracket for the rear light and its electrical cable
Additional bolt detail and recoil slides were added to the gun’s structural parts
The sequence of images above show the gun shield during assembly. We can observe the two pre-shaped brass main components, plus the sprue of moulded spacers and the replacement machined brass spacers too
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FEATURE ARTICLE: AFV CLUB 1:35 AFV CLUB 7.5CM PAK40 L46 • KIT NO.35071
Underside view of the ‘travelling’ gun showing the brakes and their levers and lines added by the author
Close-up of the gun breech showing the ‘metallised’ inner area, as well as the breech mechanism on top
‘The chassis provided in the kit is well detailed with most major features included.’
The internal gunsight shutters can just be seen here
Close-up on the two models, one built with its trail legs in the firing position (left image) and in the closed, travel position (right image)
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Echelon Fine Details produce a decal set that provides the ‘Schitomir’ title plus armoured fist that appeared on a gun captured in Normandy
Modelspec AFV CLUB 7.5CM PAK 40 L46 KIT NO.35071 AFV Club; Brass Shield Bolts, (35073) Aber; Tool clamps (35A93) Echelon Decals; Pak 40 Schitomir (356003), Gun kill rings Marder III Ausf H (356109) References; Nuts & Bolts No 18, Marder III Ausf H and Pak 40 Availability; AFV Club kits and accessories are widely available from good model shops. UK import and distribution; www.pocketbond.co.uk www.creativemodels.co.uk
In this view we can just make out the ‘braun ark’ lettering on the side-guard, denoting the type of hydraulic fluid used in the recuperator Close-up on the trail-arm ends revealing weld seams and locking mechanism
with the power cable added and run along the underside of the chassis. This terminates at the rectangular junction box on the front of the right hand trailing leg. A new plastic card cover was added to the latter plus a couple of retaining ‘screw heads’. From this terminal box, the power cable ran inside the trailing leg until it re-emerges at the multi-plug just in front of the rear spade.
LEG UP
The two trailing legs were a simple rolled construction with a prominent weld seam on the inside edge running from front to back. Both the front hinge assembly and the spades at the rear were welded in place and the prominent beads can be added using your chosen method. I still prefer to use a pyrogravure. The positioning levers used by the crew to move the PAK 40 and mounted above the spades were folded forward when the gun was towed and folded back when the gun was in firing mode. The clip assemblies that either locked these levers in either position can be added using folded brass and plastic card. The folding armour in front of the chassis is possibly a little thick, but within acceptable tolerances. I did not bother to try thinning it any further. Two square headed spades are supplied and used on one model. To add a variation, two more conventional round headed
spades were added to the other model. Both types were ‘retained’ using Aber tool clamps. A small reflector was made from plastic card and added to the hinged portion. The metal spoked wheels are provided with rubber tyres, complete with ‘Continental’ logo. Many modellers are concerned about this use of rubber tyre with a styrene hub, as the plasticiser that creates the soft rubber feel can migrate to the hard styrene and literally melt the hub. Alternatively, the rubber can harden over time, both shrinking and cracking. To prevent plasticiser migration, I make sure the hub is thoroughly painted before fitting the tyre, ensuring no ‘rubber to styrene’ contact. There is little one can do to prevent the rubber degrading, but kits in my collection with this type of tyre and built over twenty years ago have not shown any degradation so far. Only time will tell I suppose! AFV Club has not included decals. This is not too alarming as the majority of period images reveal few markings were ever applied. Echelon Fine Details produce a nice little set that provides the unique “Schitomir” title with armoured fist that appeared on a captured gun in Normandy. I assume this flamboyant marking commemorates the crew’s involvement in the offensive to retake Kiev towards the end of 1943. Counter attacks in the Zhytomir region (Schitomir in German) by the 1st and 4th Panzer
Armies inflicted heavy losses on the defending Red Army, before eventually greater Soviet numbers ensured Kiev was not recaptured. In addition to the shield markings, the hydraulic ‘Braun ark’ stencils are also included. This gun was photographed with the barrel removed, so the kill markings are purely conjectural. The more elaborate kill markings seen on the other finished model are again by Echelon, but taken from a set designed for the Marder III Ausf H.
FINAL THOUGHTS
AFV Club’s release of the Pak40 incorporates both excellent and accurate detail - enhanced by the outstanding quality of the pre-formed double skinned shields. The few tiny details I have chosen to enhance are more a result of having good reference available, as opposed to essential improvements required to complete a poorly produced kit. This kit certainly is not the latter. If I were looking to nit pick, I would suggest that AFV Club could have provided details of the missing pneumatic lines underneath to give the modeller a head start if he or she chose to add these details. Also, a choice of wheel pattern in the kit would have expanded the options available to the builder. These comments however should not be seen as criticism and do not detract from an otherwise outstanding kit. •
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FULL-BUILD: AFV CLUB 1:35 M-18 HELLCAT TANK DESTROYER • KIT NO.35015
LIKE A CAT ‘OUTA HELL!
The 76mm Gun Motor Carriage (GMC) M18 was an American tank destroyer of World War II. The manufacturer, Buick, gave it the nickname ‘Hellcat’ and it was the fastest tracked armoured fighting vehicle during the war, with a top speed up to 60mph. José Brito describes the construction and painting of AFV Club’s 1:35 kit 24
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Liquid cement was carefully applied with a super-fine tubing
Track pins of the correct length were made using a custom jig
The Friulmodel track links were individually drilled out to ease the insertion of the track pins
A simple jig in the form of a piece of wood with a groove for the guide-horns was used during assembly
Each pin was then carefully inserted, joining up the links to create fully articulated runs
Far left; tiny droplets of CA glue were used to hold the track pins in place
Centre; once the CA glue had hardened, the protruding excess of each pin was snipped off
The M18’s interior was airbrushed with Vallejo white primer
H
ellcat crews took advantage of the vehicle’s speed to protect against hits to its thin armour; many German Panther and Tiger tanks were destroyed because they could not turn their turrets fast enough to return fire. The main disadvantages of the M18 was this very light armour plus the inconsistent performance of its 76mm gun against the frontal armour of German designs such as the Tiger and Panther. The open-topped turret (a characteristic which it shared with the M10) left the crew exposed to snipers, grenades and shell fragments. The doctrinal priority of high speed at the cost of armour protection thus led to an unbalanced design. The problem of the main gun’s performance was remedied with High Velocity Armour Piercing (HVAP) ammunition late in the war, which allowed the 76mm gun to achieve greater frontal armour penetration, but this
was never available in quantity. After World War II, many M18 Hellcats were given to other countries. These were rebuilt and refurbished by Brown & Root in northern Italy in the late 1940s and early 1950s, and bear data plates that indicate those rebuilds. One of the users was Yugoslavia, which kept them in reserve until the early 1990s. A number of these vehicles were later used by the Military of Serbian Krajina and Army of Republika Srpska during the Yugoslav wars. One example was used on an armoured train named the ‘Krajina Ekspres’ (Krajina Express). The Military of the Republic of China also operated several M18s until their chassis and hulls were worn out, at which point the turrets were salvaged and installed onto surplus hulls of M42 Duster anti-aircraft vehicles to produce Type 64 light tanks.
THE M18 FROM AFV CLUB
The Hellcat from AFV Club is a nice kit and all we need to make a great replica will be found inside the box. The kit is made in their ultra fine, dark green coloured plastic with very subtle surface detail. The fit is okay, not being top class, and the overall model is very accurate. Inside the box we are also presented with crisply printed decals for seven different versions, vinyl tracks and a metal gun barrel. The box art is not very appealing, but even so has a nice design that can be transformed into a poster for one’s working area.
CONSTRUCTION
The model’s build-up was very straightforward with no major surprises. All the main assemblies and small details were glued with the help of Deluxe Materials’ Plastic Magic Glue and for the best results I used their Pin Magic applicator which
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FULL-BUILD: AFV CLUB 1:35 M-18 HELLCAT TANK DESTROYER • KIT NO.35015
A loop/handle making tool was employed to form lifting eyes
Here we can see the putty application on the turret
The copper wire eyes are seen here being fitted to the gun mantlet
Plastic putty was used to enhance the steel texture on the hull and other areas
On the rear deck we see Black Dog’s resin tarp rolls, chain and a very realistic braided copper wire towing cable
Further resin stowage items from Black Dog were fitted to the turret, greatly enhancing this area of the vehicle
Over this, further layers of Vallejo greens were applied
Time for some paint; the process kicks off with a layer of Vallejo’s superb US Olive Drab Surface Primer (73608)
allows a good degree of control, because the cement has such a low viscosity. The interior is very complete but sadly, most of it will be invisible once the model is finished. Some other small parts were glued with the help of Deluxe Materials’ Rocket Hot and Rocket Rapid Glue solutions. Friulmodel tracks, are they really necessary? In my opinion, yes! The vinyl tracks provided by AFV CLUB are accurate and well detailed but they are no match for the Friulmodel product. With Friulmodel’s metal tracks we can attain the natural and realistic sag. Why? Because we have something called gravity! All we have to do is place the assembled metal tracks on the model and let gravity do all the rest. The final result is natural-looking and realistic. Assembling the Friulmodel tracks is a timeconsuming process, as all the links must be individually prepared for assembly. Personally I like to drill out all the holes where the metal pin will be introduced. Several links were assembled
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in small segments and the metal pins were introduced in the right spots, like real life tracks. Once all the segments had been connected, all I had to do was apply small drops of CA glue to keep everything in place. Finally, I snipped off the excess metal pins using sidecutters. I prefer to add or replace some of the smaller plastic parts on a model; I usually replace all the hooks, hangers and handles etc., with new ones in metal, glued in place with CA adhesive. Blackdog’s stowage set (T3502) is designed for AFV Club’s M18 and sports some lovely detail. This set adds an extra touch of realism to the model. All the extra detail work and the metal tracks really improve the model’s final look. Besides, they look accurate and with a natural sag. The steel cables from the Portuguese company ‘RMG’ also look very authentic and with a very natural malleability. The small metal chains are from Royal Model.
Painting
The entire model was airbrushed with Vallejo’s Surface Primer 73608 US Olive Green. This range of primers dry very fast and create a very smooth surface, ideal for airbrushing. They must be sprayed in several layers in order to retain the surface detail. Once the primer had fully dried, the entire model was airbrushed with a dark green colour (specifically Vallejo Model Air US Dark Green 71016). Like the primer, this was airbrushed in several layers in order to keep the surface detail. To achieve the ‘zenith transformation’ (a top-down lighting effect, achieve through lightened layers of paint), the top parts of the model were airbrushed with Vallejo Model Air 71010 Interior Green. I’m not a fan of the ‘colour modulation’ approach. In my opinion the ‘zenith transformation’ technique makes the model look much more interesting and better represents natural illumination. The small details were touched in with Vallejo’s Model Color acrylics.
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Vallejo’s Model Color range is thicker than the airbrush-ready Model Air line, and they had-paint beautifully
Tiny areas of highlighting and shading were created with a ‘000’ paintbrush to allow for maximum control
Localised drybrushing was used to highlight raised detail
The straps securing the various items of externally-stored equipment were painted with a canvas-coloured acrylic
A fine-tipped brush was used to touch-in highlights on the towing cable
Dust build-ups were created on horizontal surfaces using modeller’s weathering pigments
A spattered mud-effect was created by blowing air over a paint brush carrying a pigment slurry
Oil/fuel stains were applied around the filler caps using Mig Productions Oil and Grease Stain Mixture, although gloss varnish with a drop of brown enamel paint added works just as well
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FULL-BUILD: AFV CLUB 1:35 M-18 HELLCAT TANK DESTROYER • KIT NO.35015
A pre-mixed ‘mud-splash’ colour-wash was flicked onto the appropriate areas, using a stiff-bristled brush
A more controlled application of the mud-wash was achieved with a fine-pointed paint brush
The teeth of the drive sprockets were touched with the tip of a soft graphite pencil to impart a hint of steel where they’d engage with the track. Less is more is the key here
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Modelspec AFV CLUB 1:35 M-18 HELLCAT TANK DESTROYER KIT NO.35015 Black Dog; M-18 Accessories Set (T35026) Friulmodel; M-18 Hellcat (ATL-40) Royal Model; metal chains (several sizes and item numbers) RMG Resin Models; Metal cables Materials and paints used; Deluxe Materials glue solutions, injection-moulded plastic, resin parts, plastic card, metal parts, Vallejo primers and acrylics, Mig Productions pigments, oils, washes, filters and thinners, soft graphite pencil References; Several internet sites and forums Availability; www.pocketbond.co.uk www.creativemodels.co.uk
WEATHERING AND FINISHING
The graphite pencil was used again to create heavy areas of wear, at the point the tow cable crosses the upper hull...
...and also on the M2 .50cal HMG atop the turret
‘Friulmodel tracks, are they really necessary? In my opinion, yes!’
The weathering started with the application of several layers of Mig Productions oil paints, well thinned with turpentine. The dusty look was achieved using powdered pigments and several different shades were used in order to create a more realistic appearance. The colours must be applied in the appropriate areas and it’s vital not to overdo this process, otherwise the model can look unrealistic. The pigments were fixed in place with the help of a fixer, applied by placing a few droplets over the pigments with a brush and letting it dry naturally. During this process the model will turn very dark to the point where it seems as though the pigments have disappeared, but once the fixer and thinner evaporate, the pigments will re-appear and look very natural and realistic. Projected mud can be achieved with the help of an airbrush and several pigment powders mixed in acrylic resin. The airbrush was used to blow the mixture off a paint brush and onto the model for a realistic, splattered finish. The job was finished with the help of a flat brush and some layers of Mig Productions ‘Mud Splash Wash’. All these simple techniques combine to really enhance the model and give it plenty of life. With the help of a soft graphite pencil, the metal parts can easily be enhanced. Areas like tracks, chains, machine gun etc., can easily be given a metallic finish with this simple step.
CONCLUSION
This was a very enjoyable project. The M18 from AFV is not a ‘state of the art’ kit, but even so, with some minor added details plus Friulmodel tracks it can be transformed into a fine 1:35 replica. Also, it’s about a WW2 Allied subject and not just about another Tiger! Take care and be safe. •
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FEATURE ARTICLE: DRAGON 1:35 T-34-76 MOD.1941 • KIT NO.6205
HIDDEN IN THE SNOW John Bonanni describes an effective sequence of techniques to create a realistically worn winter whitewash
T
he evolution of finishing techniques has taken over the modelling world as of late. The use of hairspray and chipping fluid has changed the way modellers achieve an extreme finish. I really wanted to try the new processes, but couldn’t find the right subject matter. The perfect tank presented itself on the cover of Peko’s first publication of ‘T-34 on the Battlefield’ (www. panzerwrecks.com). The cover pictured a destroyed T-34 with a unique crosshatch winter camouflage scheme. I had seen the scheme before, but never really considered it until I examined the high quality photographs in the book. The history behind the scheme began during the winter of 1942. The 1st Guards Tank Brigade of MI Katukov painted their T-34s in unique winter scheme to simulate tyre
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tracks on the vehicle when viewed from above. Fortunately, Dragon offers the exact T-34-76 Mod. 1941 I wanted to model.
CONSTRUCTION
Unsurprisingly, the Dragon kit was easy to assemble and offered great detail. I elected not to superdetail the T-34 and focus most of my time on the finishing aspect of model. The only problem areas that required some sanding and putty were the turret sides and front glacis plate. In addition to a few (minor) fit problems, Dragon’s instructions were wrong in some steps. Specifically, the front left stowage box is shown to be installed backwards and the rear engine deck screen installed under the access panel. I made both mistakes and,
unfortunately, could only fix one. I was unable to remove the stowage box after installation, but I was able to remove the engine deck screen, which I will address later. The single-link tracks were the last step of the construction phase. Single link tracks always seem to be the main detractor when building an armour model. I always dread assembling them, however, this time I enjoyed the process. I constructed a simple jig to align the tracks prior to gluing. I made eight lengths of track links with the jig and then
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The T-34 was primed with a spray can from Walmart. The cheap ColorPlace brand is ideal for scale modelling (in the USA!) The economical spray paint contains less pigment than other brands
I choose to use MIG Ammo’s Soviet Camouflage colours
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FEATURE ARTICLE: DRAGON 1:35 T-34-76 MOD.1941 • KIT NO.6205
The tracks were assembled in two runs using a simple jig made from styrene. I let the glue cure for roughly fifteen minutes before forming them around the suspension
glued two of the lengths together, which resulted in having two long lengths per vehicle side. After letting the glue dry for ten minutes, I wrapped the lengths around the running gear and taped the two sections together on the top and bottom. It is important to have a break (unglued) on the top and bottom of the suspension. If there is no break, it will be nearly impossible to remove the tracks after assembly. After properly fitting and aligning the tracks, I let the glue dry completely for twenty-four hours. Next, the track sections were removed to fill and sand the injection in marks. A small amount of Tamiya putty was added to each depression and then wet sanded. To save time, I only marked the tracks that are not covered by the road wheels to be fixed. As I mentioned above, I repaired the back screen due to the incorrect instructions. The Dragon instructions showed placing the screen under the back deck, which I did, however, after painting I didn’t like the way it looked. I removed it from the back and glued it to the top of the plate. It turned out to look much better and more accurate. I added bolt details by using Waldron’s Subminiature Punch and Die Set. To fix the bolts to the photo-etch I used Tamiya X-22 Clear, which is a great alternative to super glue. By using Clear, I was able to control the flow of adhesive more easily than if I used super glue. The bolts were firmly attached with a coat of paint.
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Above and Middle: This is the result of applying AMMO’s Russian 4BO sprayed at 18psi mixed at 1/3 thinner and 2/3 paint. The colour comes lightened for scale effect
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Tamiya Clear is useful as an adhesive when attaching small details when you don’t want to risk using super glue
Before the first layer of white paint was added, the model was sprayed with several coats of AMMO’s chipping fluid
his is the coat of white for the finish. Note the varying levels of opacity, especially around areas around where the crew would be walking on and sliding across
The result after the finishing the first layer of whitewash is stark, but don’t worry. This is only the end of the first step, many more will follow his is the coat of white for the finish. Note the varying levels of opacity, especially around areas around where the crew would be walking on and sliding across
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FEATURE ARTICLE: DRAGON 1:35 T-34-76 MOD.1941 • KIT NO.6205
The next layer of paint was AMMO’s Washable White, which needs no thinning. Mig proclaims it’s the same chemical composition as the original washable paint used by the Russians in WWII
Right: Here we can see the distinct crosshatch camouflage scheme, which represented tyre tracks. A steady hand and a fine tipped sable brush were the only things needed to accomplish this result
Painting
Following assembly, I primed the model with enamel spray can primer. I prefer using enamel over acrylic for priming. The enamel primer really bites into the plastic surface and provides an ideal finish for acrylics. My primer of choice is Color Place Grey. It’s a cheap alternative to Tamiya Primer and can be found in the paint section at Walmart! I base
coated the T-34 with AMMO by Mig Jimenez’s Russian Green 4BO. I used Vallejo Airbrush Thinner to thin the paint to a mixture of 1/3 thinner and 2/3 paint. I sprayed the mixture through my Iwata HP-C airbrush at 18psi.
Winter finish
Many techniques to apply a winter finish have
developed in recent years. I decided to use chipping fluid, specifically AMMO’s Chipping Fluid Scratches Effects. Although chemically different to hairspray, the effect is very similar. The fluid can be both sprayed and brushed onto the model. I choose to airbrush my chipping fluid on. Thinning is not necessary. I sprayed two even coats and let it to dry for about four hours before masking off
I feel the wash is the most important stage of the finish. It adds depth to the model, which makes it come alive. The wash used was from AMMO’s range of enamel wash products
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A cooler grey filter was added to tone down and blend the whitewash and Russian green
You can see the beginning and end result of the wash on the roadwheels. It’s necessary to remove the excess wash
the camouflage pattern. The chipping fluid is selflevelling and dries satin. After masking broad strips on the turret and hull, I applied white acrylic paint thinned 50%; Enamel paint will not work for this technique. I slowly built up the layers of white focusing on the vertical surfaces. The horizontal surfaces received a light layer of white to allow for easier chipping. When I removed the low tack Tamiya tape some of the chipping fluid lifted off the surface and created an unpleasant look. Fortunately, it was an easy fix by brushing water onto the flaw. To remove the white paint, I started by wetting a soft-bristled brush with water and then brushed the water onto the model and gently scrubbed the surface. Stiffer bristle brushes can be used to remove paint that will not come off. I worked section by section, which allows for precise control because if I had coated the whole model in water and then began the chipping process, I would have created a completely different and disastrous effect. Additionally, I cleaned my brush after every section. I also used the end of a paint stirrer and a toothpick to achieve different chip shapes. The thickness layer of the white coat affects how the paint is removed when water is applied. Thicker coats of paint will chip off and create stark contrast, while thinner coats will almost rub off and create a worn finish. The completed process looks overdone, but will be toned down following another application of white paint. Next, I used AMMO’s new Washable White Camouflage, which is chemically similar to the actual whitewash used by the Russians in WWII. I sprayed it straight from the bottle without thinner. Immediately following application, I used a moistened brush with water to streak and remove the white. I found that a more dramatic finish can be achieved by applying water sooner after spraying the whitewash. Again, at this point, the removal is similar to the steps described above when using the chipping fluid. The effect created by the washable white is a worn finish and different to traditional chipping techniques. Following the additional whitewash, I handpainted the crosshatch pattern on the turret and hull. To protect the paint before weathering, I clear-coated the T-34 with Tamiya’s X-22 Clear.
Weathering
Again, AMMO’s line of weathering products were used to create streaking effects. The key to using these types of products is when focusing the applied effect is to not go directly over it with a clean brush. Start on either side of the initial application and work your way in to focus the streak line
The first step in the weathering process was to tone down the entire finish with a ‘filter’, or colour-wash. The filter is a mix of Winsor & Newton black and white oil paint which creates a grey tone. The grey ‘cools’ the finish to represent a winter vehicle. The filter consistency was 10% oil paint and 90% thinner. I choose to use AMMO’s Enamel Odourless Thinner, however, odourless thinner from the local hardware store will work as well. I applied the filter with a flat sable brush. It is important not to soak the model with the filter and remove any pooled excess. Oils take a considerable amount of time to dry. I usually let the model dry for twenty-four to forty-eight hours following filter application. Next, I applied a localised ‘pin’ wash to the details to create depth. Up until recently I would mix my own washes, but now there are so many commercially available products that have the perfect consistency. For my T-34, I used AMMO’s Dark Brown Wash for Green Vehicles, applying the wash with a round sable brush. The key to using a wash is control. After application, I went back and cleaned up the excess paint around recessed areas and raised details. To simulate the effects
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FEATURE ARTICLE: DRAGON 1:35 T-34-76 MOD.1941 • KIT NO.6205
White, Russian 4BO, and Shadow Rust colours were used during the chipping process
Airbrushing a highly thinned coats of Tamiya earth colours is the perfect way to start the dusting stage of weathering
of water carrying dirt down the vertical surfaces I used AMMO’s Streaking Grime. Again, I applied straight from the bottle. Next, I used a clean brush to subdue and focus the streaking effects.
CHIPS WITH EVERYTHING
The chipping process is one of the hardest steps in weathering. I used a combination of sponges and fine tipped brushes to recreate chips. A dark rust colour was chosen for the first layer of chipping to simulate weathered steal. Next, I applied a slightly lighter green to the base-coat around the rust chips. Lastly, I applied pure white to add another level of contrast. The next big step in the weathering process was the dust/dirt effects. This process must be controlled and deliberate. Losing control of the airbrush can cause irreversible damage to the finish. First, I added a very thin, flat layer of dust to the running gear and horizontal surfaces. I used a mixture of Tamiya earth tones thinned by 90%. On the lower hull I applied a layer of mud mixture, which consisted of household plaster of Paris and AMMO’s Nature Effects. There is no right mixture for mud. I played around with the consistency by adding more and more plaster until I was satisfied, and then applied the
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The tracks have been painted in multiple layers of rusts colours. Now it’s time to add mud
The mud mixture began with a layer of AMMO’s Fresh Mud and followed by Dark Mud. Plaster powder was added to simulate texture
mixture by blowing it on with an airbrush, the compressor set at 20psi. I worked slowly during the entire process, which took three to four hours to complete. Multiple layers of dirt were added and progressed from lighter to darker tones. This same technique was applied to the tracks after they were painted with a mixture of flat black and red brown. After studying more pictures of muddy vehicles, I wanted to add an effect to replicate moist mud, for which AK’s Fresh Mud is perfect. The exhaust pipes were painted using multiple Lifecolor rust tones, starting with the darkest tone and progressing to light. I varied the level of opacity by adding water. Lifecolor paints dry dead flat and multiple thin layers perfectly recreate a worn exhaust pipe.
DUSTY LAYERS
Dust is a critical element of armour models and I used a variety of light and dark pigments during this stage of weathering. I added different layers of each colour by loading a brush with pigments and tapping it while over the model’s surface, which caused the pigments to fall naturally onto the surface. The pigments were then fixed with AMMO’s Pigment Fixer from a micro pipette. This was my first time using fixer and the only
complication was a slight sheen when the solution dried. It was easily fix by misting a flat coat over it. Periscopes were painted with Tamiya Smoke, which dries glossy. Next, I applied oil and fuel stains. The easiest way to create these effects is with AK’s Oil and Fuels Stains. These stains are enamel based and dry with a semi-gloss sheen. Lastly, I rubbed graphite on the tracks and edges that experience a lot of wear. During this last step, don’t overdo the graphite effect. Controlled application is critical to achieve the right look. Final thoughts and a dedication This was a very fun project. The Dragon kit was a very straightforward build, which allowed me to concentrate on the finish. I learned a lot of new techniques, especially using the washable white. I’m already planning my next winter vehicle. I would like to dedicate this article to my dad James Bonanni who passed away recently. My dad introduced me to this hobby, and we shared wonderful times together at the bench and shows.
AVAILABILITY
Dragon models are widely available from good model shops. UK import and distribution by The Hobby Company www.hobbyco.net •
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To enhance the airbrushed dust effects I applied AMMO’s Kursk Earth
After using multiple brands of rust colours I’ve found Lifecolors perform the best for desired results
Three different colours of pigments were used on the upper hull surface where dirt and dust would collect
I’ve found that Tamiya Smoke is the simplest way to simulate periscopes and view port glass
Multiple layers of AK’s Engine Oil was added to horizontal and vertical surfaces to simulate oil and grease stains
The last touch to the mud was to add fresh patches in crevices and corners
I sanded graphite sticks down and applied the powder with a rubber tipped brush. I also used a Number 2 pencil on the edges on the model
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MODELLING REFERENCES: US THREE-INCH M3 ANTI-TANK GUN
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T E E R ST
S R E T H IG
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US anti-tank gunners in action
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n this action photo, we see a US 3” M5 anti-tank gun from a ‘Tank Destroyer Battalion, Towed’ in position on the corner of a street in Saint-Malo, Normandy. It’s a dramatic scene and one that would work well in 1:35 diorama form!
IN KIT FORM;
AFV Club offer a 1:35 kit of the M5 on an M6 carriage, kit No.35181. As you can probably imagine, it’s a highly detailed model and ideal for the recreation of this wartime photo. www.pocketbond.co.uk •
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FEATURE ARTICLE: DRAGON 1:72 SD.KFZ.222 LEICHTE PANZERSPÄHWAGEN • KIT NO. 7393
FROZEN IN TIME Przemyslaw Szymczyk scales down and builds Dragon’s tiny 1:72 Sd.Kfz.222 and creates a wintery scene for it 40
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Here we see the assembled model with stowage made from epoxy putty. The anti-grenade screen atop the turret is included with the kit; the gun barrel is from RB Model
Lifecolor ‘Rust Dark Shadow’ formed the base coat for the model
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hen I saw the 1:72 Sd.Kfz.222 kit from Dragon, I instantly wanted to have it, so when the opportunity came, I bought one from a friend who had a spare; Dragon includes two kits in the box! My friend also kindly send me a metal barrel, probably from RB Model as it was unbagged. The model looks lovely after assembly, but looking at the close-up images, you might notice some simplification and a lack of detail here and there. It is difficult, however, to blame the manufacturer for this; injection technology has its limitations. I added some extra detail to my model (such as the padlocks on the side boxes and the shovel clamp) and modified the front suspension so that the wheels were slightly turned. I also decided to add a large number of different stowage items to the rear deck.
Over the (dried) rust colour, a layer of AK ‘Worn Effects’ fluid which forms a water-soluble masking layer
I found a few resin boxes and packs in my spare parts box, but I sculpted a lot with two-part epoxy putty, made from mixing Magic Sculp, Milliput and Greenstuff. Using this material, I also enhanced the spare wheel cover, which was rather flat and bland. All stowage was sculpted directly on the vehicle, automatically adjusting blankets and other stuff to it. I also added some smaller items such as a helmet and a kettle. When the epoxy had hardened, I managed to separate the stowage from model to paint it separately. Painting started as usual with primer (grey Dupli Color) and later I applied the first coat of ‘rust’ using Lifecolor’s ‘Rust Dark Shadow’. Then, via airbrush, I applied AK Interactive ‘Worn-Effects’ fluid followed by the base colour, XF-63 German Grey from Tamiya. After the grey had touch-dried,
The model’s colour came next, in the form of Tamiya XF-63 German Grey
I took a stiff nylon brush dampened with water and gently scraped off the top layer of paint to reveal the ‘rust’ from below. Creating good-looking chipping in this scale – especially on such a small model – is very difficult, so using AK chipping fluids (or decanted/airbrushed hairspray) allows one to attain good results in fairly simple way. Vehicle painting was finished, vignette time! The concept of a winter scenery came quite naturally to me, given that, at the time of the base’s construction, it was the middle of March and minus fifteen degrees outside! Initial construction was done with 4cm thick Styrodur foam, built up in a ‘sandwich’. I cut this to the desired form and covered the sides with 3mm balsa wood. When the glue had dried I sanded out the irregularities and then covered the
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FEATURE ARTICLE: DRAGON 1:72 SD.KFZ.222 LEICHTE PANZERSPÄHWAGEN • KIT NO. 7393
The paint chipping process has revealed the rust-brown below the greys The model in its ‘modulated’ shades of grey
Further surface treatments were carried out using Lifecolor’s ‘Tensochrome’ acrylic washes
The dramatic diorama takes shape
ground with Terracota Milliput. Ruts and other irregularities were sculpted into the still-soft putty. On the overhanging rocks, I first applied layer of plaster, then pushed pieces of cork into the still-wet material. Finally, I applied another layer of more diluted plaster to blend the cork in. When the base was drying, I could take care of the figures. I made them by first creating a wire skeleton with roughly marked proportions and then tried to make something that looked like a man with a mixture of Greenstuff and Magic Sculp. On the first figure I used the head and feet from a Mantis Miniatures resin model, but the other one
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Finally, the crew-stowage was permanently fixed to the model with liquid cement
The cave’s icicles were formed with clear epoxy glue, applied and formed to shape with a stick
was made entirely ‘from scratch’. Both frozen crew members were placed around the fire, which I made with chopped toothpicks and two-part epoxy glue, from which I formed the flames. To paint the base I first covered everything with matt black from an aerosol. I then placed some grey-brownish colour into the airbrush cup and painted the ground and rocks. I puzzled for a long time how to make icicles; the method of making each individual icicle from heat-stretched transparent sprue seemed too time-consuming, so in the end I decided to try transparent epoxy glue. The effect was pretty good and fairly easy
to achieve. The only problem was the relatively narrow window of time in which epoxy was soft enough to sculpt to shape. It was necessary to repeat the application several times to improve the effect. And there we have it – a tiny, frozen scene with an Sd.Kfz.222 in its centre!
AVAILABILITY
Dragon kits and accessories are widely available from good model shops. UK import and distribution by The Hobby Company; www.hobbyco.net •
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Here we see the wire armatures of the figures
The figures were largely scratchbuilt by the author, using epoxy putty
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FEATURE ARTICLE: MIG PRODUCTIONS 1:48 DODGE WC-51 • KIT NO. MP 48-065
T U O T E G ! E G D O D YA Rick Lawler relaxes with Mig Productions’ 1:48 Dodge Weapons Carrier
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his was one of those wonderful afternoon projects, well, at least the construction portion that is. A great little kit of a sometimes overlooked vehicle, Mig Productions have done an outstanding job providing this rendition in quarter-inch scale. Not to make things too hard on myself, but I did spend a little extra time during the research phase finding a suitable subject on which to base my project. A basic olive drab finish would be nice, but a little ordinary; I wanted to find something with a little personality. My inspiration came to me from a fellow modeller who presented me with a lovely photograph showing a Dodge WC finished in a sand finish sporting twin .50cal guns mounted in the rear bed. As an added touch, a field modified fuel can rack is mounted to the rear. Perfect. As mentioned, this is a very nice kit. The moulding is crisp and precise, the fit is great and the instructions are clear and easy to follow. Construction began with the lower body and chassis, upon which were fitted the front bonnet, crew cab and rear bed. Some of the finer details of the cab such as the foot pedal are reproduced in photo-etched metal. Speaking of photo-etch, this kit includes the type of etch technology which places the parts on a clear, sticky plastic rather than affixed to a traditional fret. This is a nice feature that speeds assembly and ensures that there are no unsightly attachment barbs.
CONSTRUCTION POINTERS
Construction sequence of the kit, showing the resin cast parts of the model, plus the photo-etched brass detail components
A couple of points to note during construction: The front grill, part #2, is much thicker than required. I believe that it is part of the casting process, but there is a substantial excess resin block attached to the back side. The instructions did not call for – nor was it apparent to me – that this should be sanded down so that when installed, the front of the grille is in-line with the front of the bonnet. In addition the instructions indicate that the front bumper requires shorter mounting posts for this model of truck. Care must be taken when you make the cut as these pieces are small and fragile; I managed to break one of my brackets. The driver’s-side running board is another area that does require a little bit of extra time. The assembly is made up of multiple photoetched parts, the largest of these being the tread patterned plate. As in the real vehicle, the plate contours around the spare tyre, requiring a little bending and shaping by the modeller I would suggest that these etched pieces first be annealed for ease of bending and then soldered for strength. Using the spare tyre as a guide can
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FEATURE ARTICLE: MIG PRODUCTIONS 1:48 DODGE WC-51 • KIT NO. MP 48-065
Here we can see the fuel can rack on the truck’s tailgate, made by the author from plastic card
Views of the completed model with armament in place
The twin’50s are resin/PE items from Hauler and are exquisite. The mounted was made from polystyrene rod and scrap
The guns really bring the Dodge to life and are well worth the minor investment
The assembled kit was undercoated with aerosol primer in preparation for the colour coats
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Mixes of Tamiya Acrylics paints form the sand-coloured base coat of the vehicle. Differing intensities of tone were used to lend a little variation to the model’s finish
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With the basic, solid colours on and fully dry, the weathering processes colour begin
No hairspray technique here, the paint scrapes and scratches being applied by paintbrush and a kitchen scourer dipped in dark brown paint
Small pieces of sponge – dipped in paint – were also used to create a matrix of scoring on the model’s paint
help achieve the proper shape of the contour. And then, just when I was getting into the swing of the build, the kit was complete! In total, sixteen full colour photographs show the construction sequence and parts placement which can easily be completed within a relaxing afternoon. Of course I was not quite finished as the best was yet to come; those distinctive twin rear mounted M2 .50cal guns and the extra petrol cans adorning the rear of the vehicle. These accessories (the guns and gas cans) are from the Hauler range. Can I say, ‘wow’? That was my initial reaction upon opening the package containing the guns. Everything needed to make a very small, but convincing .50cal weapon is included and finely reproduced in delicate resin and photo-etch. The barrel and main body are separate resin castings, while the gun fittings are from photo-etch, including the ammo cans, belts, and mounting brackets. The rear shelf that I added to the rear of the vehicle for the gas cans was fabricated from plastic stock and some small bits of photo-etch from my extras box. Similarly, the
Very thin acrylic colour washes were employed to vary the tone of the sand camo paint
pedestal mount for the tiny lethal weapons was also constructed from bits and pieces of plastic and brass.
TIME FOR SOME COLOUR
There definitely seems to be something about these little 1:48 kits that seem to prompt me to be a little bolder with my colour and painting style. Perhaps their small size requires a more dramatic approach? Whatever the reason, I found myself once again playing with the principals of colour modulation, this time with a sand scheme. The first step, of course, was to give the small vehicle a unifying primer layer. I followed this with an overall base colour of Tamiya Dark Yellow and White. The upper surfaces received additional highlights using almost pure white. The darker, or shadow colour was created by mixing a few drops of NATO Black into the base colour This is the first time that I’ve used this colour as a darkening agent and I must say that I was very pleased with the results. Rather than being a true black, the NATO Black appears to be more of
a very dark green which lends itself nicely to the shadowing effects of colour modulation. Lastly, I decided to give the appearance of a field applied re-paint, thus the cab area was painted a dark green to reflect the original finish. The green colour will also play a prominent role in the chips and weathering to follow. Other features such as the tyres and seats were also colour-blocked at this time using the airbrush. With the base colours applied I prepared the surfaces for the markings by spraying a light coat of Future acrylic floor polish. I will admit that I took a few liberties with the accuracy of the vehicle markings as I did not have clear references, nor does the kit provide decals. I used 1:72 stars for Shermans from Archer Fine Transfers while the USA and vehicle number on the front bumper came from my stash. Don’t look too close, because the dashboard dials are originally from the Eduard Hetzer kit! Once these were in place I once again gave the vehicle a light misting of Future polish to seal the markings.
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FEATURE ARTICLE: MIG PRODUCTIONS 1:48 DODGE WC-51 • KIT NO. MP 48-065
Dry-rub decals from Archer Fine Transfer were used for the US yellow stars
Decal setting solution was used to help the markings conform fully
High quality oil paints were used to create colour-washes, enhancing the surface detail
DIRTYING DOWN
The weathering steps are always a back ‘n forth affair for me and so it is a little difficult to describe the techniques, as it is not a linear process. In general, however, after the base colour had been applied with the airbrush I spent some time applying the first round of light chips and scuffs to the vehicle. On this project I wanted to show a vehicle that has seen its share of wear in a harsh environment. The truck would be operating in an environment of harsh sun and dust and would have travelled over poor roads and so I want the weathering to reflect the inevitable wear and tear associated with this type of service; rock chips, scuffs, and stains. I began by using a small brush to add some well placed marks and scratches and then moved to using a kitchen pad lightly dipped in green acrylic paint to add another dimension to the wear. It’s easy to get carried away when using this technique, so restraint is key. I quickly worked my way around the vehicle concentrating on those areas where the environment or the crew would make the greatest impact. After this brush and pad work I applied very thin acrylic filters mixed from Vallejo Model Colors thinned with tap water over the vehicle’s surface. Each
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Mig Productions’ weathering pigments were mixed into a slurry, in order to create a muddy effect
section was given a slightly different colour, in this case the shades I used consisted of yellows, cream and whites, though some hints of green were also used. This step in important as it helps to fade certain chips and scratches into the background, while others become more pronounced. By this time I can see that my attention to the base colours will prove worthwhile and I am pleased with the progress with the slightly grey base colour (by adding NATO Black) giving the sand base colours some added depth.
OIL BE BACK
Pigments were brushed into areas where grime might build up
Up to this point I had used acrylics almost exclusively, but now I was ready for the artist’s oil paints. Oils add depth and tonal variations that acrylics alone cannot achieve. I wanted to capture the discolouration and oxidation caused by the harsh sun and dusty environment. To this end, I randomly placed small dots of yellow, ochres and white oils onto a pre-moistened surface and blend them using a soft, damp brush until they were nearly invisible. When using this technique it is important to allow each layer to dry completely before moving onto successive layers because as the colours dry they do become more pronounced. The goal is not to radically change the colour of the vehicle, but rather give it subtle variations. After the overall dot filters had dried I then
proceeded to apply light colour-washes along the panels and into the corners and around the details. This is the part of working with sand colours that I struggle with as I am concerned with achieving definition, but a not too heavy-handed effect. I began by using Mig Productions’ 502 Abteilung Shadow Brown as the colour of choice. This is a very versatile colour that when dry leaves soft, natural looking depth. The lower areas of the chassis such as under the fenders received general washes of Mig Productions 502 Light Mud and Shadow Brown to create a dirty looking finish. A final light pin wash of Mig Productions Wash Brown to certain areas added nice variation to the details.
POWDER POWER!
The last, but certainly not least of the weathering steps included the application of pigments. These potent powders are quite effective at giving the model the sense of wear, dust and dirt. To begin, I almost always apply my pigments wet, having first been dissolved to the consistency of low-fat milk, using white (mineral) spirits. Then, by using a small brush I was able to basically paint the pigments exactly to point I wish, allowing some capillary effect to further spread and feather the application. This is a process that takes some time, adding layer upon layer. I generally begin by first applying the pigments in the corners and areas of greatest
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Modelspec MIG PRODUCTIONS 1:48 DODGE WC-51
KIT NO.MP 48-065
Materials; Cast polyurethane resin, photo-etched brass Paints used; Tamiya Acrylics; XF-60 Dark Yellow, XF-2 Flat White, XF-69 NATO Black Mig Productions; 502 Abteilung Shadow Brown, Light Mud Mig Productions pigments; Europe Dust P028, Beach Sand P030, Light Dust P027, Grimy Black P236 Other items used:; Hauler; M2.50 Calibre Machine Guns (HLX 48006), US Gas Cans and Holders (HLX 48198) Archer Fine Transfers; Stars for Shermans (AR72022Y) References; Olive Drab: www.olive-drab.com/od_mvg_www_dodge.php3 Dodge Restoration Homepage: www.surplustrucks.com/WC51/WC51Home.htm Lend Lease on Airforce.ru: http://lend-lease.airforce.ru/english/photogallery/dodge_ wc-51/index.htm Availability; Mig Productions kits and products are available from Creative Models Ltd. www.creativemodels.co.uk The Dodge WC-51 kit No.MP48-065 is currently out of production. Please check online auction websites.
build-up then reapply and gradually increase the size of the area with subsequent applications. It is important to also vary the colour mix of the pigments from time to time to add additional interest and realism. On this vehicle I limited my pigment colours to using Mig Productions European Dust, Beach Sand, Light Dust and Grimy Black. By experimenting, I happened upon a mix of Light Dust mixed with just a touch of the Grimy Black that yielded a colour that worked very well over the sand coloured base paint. When satisfied with the pigment placement I sealed them permanently in place using Mig Productions Fixer for Pigments. Small detail additions The final details included painting and adding the gas cans to the rear of the truck. The tie-down strap was made from a cutting of tracing paper washed with CA glue; the buckle is from the extras box. The twin ‘50s received a light drybrush of Payne’s Grey artist’s oils followed by a light buffing of graphite. A piece of clear acetate was cut to size the placed between the photoetched window frame and put into place. A few touch-ups with the brush and pigments and my little weapons carrier was ready for battle. Final thoughts? This is my third 1:48 scale project, and certainly not my last. I particularly enjoyed being able to build a model of a wonderful subject with great detail in the course of an afternoon. What a treat! Mig Productions is to be commended for giving us a fine example of the Dodge WC-51, an important vehicle and staple of the US forces during World War II. •
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MODELLING REFERENCES: OSHKOSH HEMTT
Side view of a M1120A4 HEMTT with Load Handling System (LHS). The LHS is a demountable flatrack providing self-load/unload capability and capable of transporting an eleven-ton payload
HEAVY EXPANDED MOBILITY TACTICAL TRUCK IN AFGHANISTAN Patrick Winnepenninckx brings us some references for modelling the US Army’s HEMTT trucks
Another view of the M1120A4 LHS
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Another view of the M1120A4 RHS
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Side view of a M977A4 HEMTT cargo truck
Side view of another M977A4. Behind it is a M984A4 HEMTT wrecker
A view of the same M977A4. The armoured cabin is the most distinctive feature that makes this a -A4 version of the HEMTT
Far Left: Armoured Oshkosh HEMTTs; a M977A4 on the left; a M983A4 on the right. Note the differences in the armoured cabins Left: Rear view of a M1120A4 LHS. Note the green flatrack and the armoured fuel cell
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MODELLING REFERENCES: OSHKOSH HEMTT
Rear view of the M983A4. The Tru-Hitch towing device enables this HEMTT to tow all types of MRAPs
Side view of another M977A4. Behind it is a M984A4 HEMTT wrecker
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Side view of the M983A4 with the Tru-Hitch towing device. Side view of the M984A4 wrecker.
Right: Close up of the armoured cabin of a M984A4 HEMTT
Another version of the HEMTT used in Northern Afghanistan: the M984A4 wrecker
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MODELLING REFERENCES: OSHKOSH HEMTT
Above Left: View of a M983A4 with the Tru-Hitch towing device Above Right: Another version of the HEMTT used in Northern Afghanistan: the M984A4 wrecker Left: Side view of the M984A4 wrecker Below: Rear view of the M977A4. Note the load test marking
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COMING SOON in the ‘HOW TO BUILD...’ series
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KIT PREVIEW: ICM 1:35 HORCH 108 TYP 40 WWII GERMAN PERSONNEL CAR • KIT NO.35505
HORCH 108 1 ICM’s new 1:35 kit of the distinctivelooking Horch staff car takes over from Tamiya’s model
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Body side panels are rather fragile one-piece mouldings
The 4WD system is represented in full, with excellent detail
his is an all-new kit of the well-known WW2 German Army personnel car, a vehicle used in all theatres of operation and a familiar sight in the rear-echelons of battlefronts east and west. ICM’s parts breakdown is thorough, going right down to the ladder chassis, doublewishbone suspension plus front/rear axles and diffs. The kit comes with a very usable replica of the Horch 108’s 3.8 litre V8 engine and this can remain on view if the engine cover panels are left unglued, although this comes as one part and will need a little surgery to depict the centrally hinged double panels. A very appealing aspect of the model is the open-moulded engine grille, a major feature of the ‘108 and one that draws attention. The kit even comes with a shrouded fan and radiator that sit behind the grille. All cabin doors are moulded individually as are the rear stowage compartment’s hatches. A very refined production all round and a modern alternative to Tamiya’s classic kit of the Horch. •
Modelspec ICM 1:35 HORCH 108 TYP 40 WWII GERMAN PERSONNEL CAR KIT NO.35505 The suspension is broken down into individual components
The Horch’s massive radiator grille features open-moulded louvres
Scale 1:35 Materials; IM, SVT, WS MIM’S OPINION? Fantastic detail inside and out; the open-louvred grille is extremely well done. The bonnet will need a little cutting to ‘open’ accurately. Availability;
The cabin floor is covered with an accurate non-slip surface
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A complete engine is included too; here are the rocker covers
www.hannants.co.uk
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FEATURE ARTICLE: DRAGON 1:72 DRAGON 1:72 TYPE 2 KA MI • KIT NO. 7435
NANO AMPHIBIAN! IMPERIAL JAPAN’S FLOATING BOX Martin Šiška builds Dragon’s tiny but delicious 1:72 ‘Amphibious Tank Type 2 KaMi’ and places it in a mini diorama
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he WW2 Japanese ‘amphibious tank Type 2 Ka-Mi’ was built on the Japanese light tank chassis ‘Type 95 Ha-Go’. The tank had detachable pontoons that were assembled before shipping and was armed with a 37mm cannon in the rotating turret coupled with a further 7.7mm and 7.7mm machine guns in the front part of the hull. For propulsion in the water the tank had two propellers at the rear of the hull. It was able to cruise at a speed of 10km/h up to a maximum swimming range of 150km. The maximum speed on land was 37km/h.
BUILD
After opening the small box I found just forty-five plastic parts, some photo-etched mesh, DS tracks and a small decal sheet. Construction proceeded
quickly and the model was practically built in a couple of hours. After the completion of the building I replaced the grab-handles (the Ka-Mi has a fair few) with copper wire and I added a cable to the light too. Since I wanted to represent an abandoned machine, I fitted one track as though it had been ‘thrown’ and made a Japanese flag from Magic Sculpt putty. The model was now ready for paint.
PAINT
The camouflage was applied in a subtle variation of the modulation style using a base of Tamiya XF-63 German Grey and XF-22 RLM Grey, mixed by eye. This was followed by lightened tones of grey, applied in three layers using the base grey with increasingly more white added; in the photos, this step is not very visible. I gently airbrushed the model
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Construction; hand-grabs were made with copper wire
The basics of the groundwork; building of the tank is complete
Finished clusters, or bunches? The smallest are hemp twine, the medium sized ones are plumbing cord and the thickest are straight hairs from a brush
Close-up on the terrain during its build-up
Adding tufts of vegetation with tweezers, for accuracy
The finished terrain; small but convincing
The tank glued on its terrain
‘Colour modulated’ camouflage in place
Chipping and washes using Vallejo and AK Interactive paints. This photo gives an impression of the model’s tiny size
with X-22 Clear and applied the decals, which, after an application of Mr Setter and Mr Softer, blended perfectly into the surface.
WEATHERING
To soften the transitions between the modulation ‘steps’ I applied grey and blue ‘filters’ (pale colourwashes) mixed from oil paints and enamel thinners. The paint ‘chipping’ was created with Vallejo colours, which I mixed to a lighter shade of grey than the main camouflage and applied in the form of scratches and scoring. Over these marks (leaving a slight border of light grey) I applied some spots and lines using a metallic shades of acrylic paint. For the dust spots, I used light, dust-coloured oil paints and since the Ka-Mi was an amphibious tank, I indicated a ‘waterline’ along the sides and below the waterline, applying some dry, powdery, salty marks. For the rusty parts such as propellers and exhaust I painted a light brown colour from Vallejo, which was a good match for rust.
TERRAIN
For the diorama’s terrain I used an air-curing material for sculptors from which I created groundwork under the sand and vegetation. On the second day the terrain had solidified and I went to work on the ground. For the sand I used a fine powder (for train modellers) and for the earth I used ordinary soil from my garden. I painted the surface with diluted white-glue (PVA) and sprinkled
Dust spots highlights/ shadows were created with oil paints
on the dust where I wanted to have sand; some roots and soil on the area where the vegetation would be. For better strength I applied a little more of the adhesive. I began preparing tufts of grass from hemp twine, plumber’s twine and a hair brush to create a diversity of grass types. I did this by cutting off a piece of string to the approximate length I wanted and then hot-glue gunned it together, which prevented the individual hairs falling out. I sprayed the vegetation by airbrush, employing various shades of green. I focused on vibrant colours as the scene is from the Pacific theatre of operation. When I had enough bunches prepared, I returned to the terrain. In the sandy areas I sprayed Tamiya XF-57 Buff mixed with XF-2 Flat White in a ratio of about 50:50, with the addition of some drops of XF-4 Yellow. On the soil I sprayed Tamiya XF-52 Flat Earth. So, with the bare ground ready, I began to ‘plant’. I took a pair of tweezers and with brute force, made holes in the surface of the ‘earth’, into which I stuck I started planting bunches. Finally, I added a dried-up tree trunk, using a stick I found in my garden.
CONCLUSION
For this project, I tried to produce terrain and vegetation that would serve me well in the future, for larger projects, dioramas etc. I can recommend this model, it’s really simple to build up and is useful for trying out different techniques, as it is just such a ‘box’! • Detail on finished tank
AFV Edition
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BOOK REVIEWS SD.KFZ.7 – 8 TON ZUGKRAFTWAGEN KRAUSS-MAFFEI AND VARIANTS DR NICOLAUS HETTLER NUTS & BOLTS VOL.34 www.nuts-bolts.de www.historexagents.com Volume 34 from Nuts and Bolts takes the evergreen modelling subject of the WW2 German Sd.Kfz.7 halftrack and gives it the familiar and much appreciated N&B shakedown. The book runs to 188 pages including covers – there’s a lot to discuss about this vehicle family – and it is examined in intimate detail from the tracks up. We begin with a thorough historical background on the vehicle and its pre-war origins, with descriptions of all the major variants (in English and German), with deployment details and a list of the available kits in 1:76, 1:72, 1:48 and 1:35 scales. This chapter is followed by some superb factory photos of the mid1930s developed vehicle, showing chassis details and more. As we progress through this section, we move into the war-years and start to see ‘7s in service; various versions are depicted here. The wartime imagery is extensive and fascinating, offering the modeller plenty of detail references, plus markings and camouflage/weathering ideas. A useful series of 1:35 five-view scale drawings follow, again covering the major variants of the Sd.Kfz.7, from troop-carrier to the armoured Sd.Kfz.7/2 3.7cm AA vehicle. Next we are treated to some gorgeous colour profiles (ten pages), a chapter of museum walk-arounds of surviving examples (forty-five pages!) and the book is topped off with an eleven-page chapter on modelling the vehicle, with high quality presentations from Vinnie Branigan, Guillem Marti i Pujol and the legendary Tony Greenland. All in all, this is a forensically thorough production on the well-known Sd.Kfz.7, with pretty much everything the modeller will need to know about the subject. If you’re a modeller of WW2 German halftracks, consider this an essential purchase. Very highly recommended. MN
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Military Illustrated Modeller - October 2015
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The International Plastic Modellers Society (UK) Presents
Saturday 7th November 2015 Open: 10.00am to 6.00pm
Sunday 8th November 2015 Open: 10.00am to 4.00pm
Admission: IPMS Members FREE Adults: £10.00 each day ~ 2 Day Pass: £15.00 Concessions: £7.00 per day Children under 16: FREE
The International Centre Telford Shropshire TF1 4JH SMW includes over 370 exhibitors, including some 190 trade stands and 180 model clubs
The World’s Greatest Model Show Incorporating the IPMS (UK) National Competition
MODELLING REFERENCES: POST D-DAY SCENES
T
his information-packed image has appeared in MiM before, but this time we’ve taken the opportunity to enlarge the photo across two pages so we can see what’s going on more clearly. The photograph was taken in the French town of Roncey, Normandy, on or around the 1st of August, 1944. Following the breakthrough of Operation Cobra, German units were surrounded in the Roncey pocket, surrendering to the US VII and VIII Corps between the 28th and 30th of July 1944. Alongside the destroyed L’église de Roncey, we see a US convoy trundling down the main street of the town while being observed by locals. The M3A1 halftrack is from the 3rd Armored Division and tows a 37mm anti-tank gun whose central section has been effectively covered to keep out dust. The M3A1 carries a good load of stowage, from camouflage netting to boxes of ammunition and fuel cans. Note the large ‘M-11’ markings, signifying this machine from a maintenance company. In the foreground to the left, we see a US Army Dodge weapons-carrier behind a group of French civilians. It’s a radio car, as indicated by the long whip-aerial that arcs backwards over it. To the right of the Dodge is a US-commandeered Simca 5 civilian car, very noticeable thanks to the large
62
white Allied star on its open door. In the background to the right, we can see a Jeep, a group of GIs (possibly military police) and a ‘WLA’ HarleyDavidson military motorcycle. Several wrecked German armoured vehicles have been bulldozered up against the ruined church (the evidence of a ‘dozer are the recent-looking track marks in the photograph’s foreground). Amongst these, from the left, are a Steyr 1500A with its bonnet up, an Sd.Kfz.7/1 anti-aircraft halftrack, Marder III tank destroyer plus at least two crushed civilian cars. All of these machines can be found in 1:35 as kits, thanks to Tamiya, Dragon and MiniArt (motorcycle) and so this scene could be re-created as a eyecatching diorama.
IN MODEL FORM
Tamiya and Dragon kits are widely available from good model shops. UK import and distribution; The Hobby Company, www.hobbyco.net. MiniArt UK import and distribution; Creative Models www.creativemodels.co.uk •
Military Illustrated Modeller - October 2015
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DESTRUCTION IN THE RONCEY POCKET A diorama-like scene from Roncey, Normandy 1944
AFV Edition
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ISSUE No.054 October 2015
Aircraft Edition - Brett Green AFV Edition - Marcus Nicholls Publisher; Alan Harman Graphic Design; Alex Hall, Colin Trundle Advertising Manager; Sean Leslie Office Manager; Paula Gray Administration Manager; Hannah McLaurie MIM Website; ADH Web Team Editors;
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The Editor builds Kinetic’s new 1:48 Mirage IIIE as an RAAF IIIO, and offers some handy walk around reference
POLISH ROTORS
AeroPLAST 1:48 Mil Mi-2T by Kamil Feliks Sztarbała
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BARKER’S FOKKER KOMET RISING
Gary Edmundson depicts Canadian William Barker’s war trophy using Wingnut Wings’ marvellous 1:32 Fokker D.VII
Tony Bell presents Meng’s 1:32 Messerschmitt Me163 Komet.
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Fine Molds’ 1:35 IJA Ho-Ni III WW2 Japanese SPG
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Marijn van Gils presents a masterclass on the scratchbuilding of this WW1 vignette depicting two ‘Force Publique de Congo’ soldiers
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SIGN OFF – FINAL THOUGHTS FROM THE EDITOR
DIORAMAS YOU
MUST BUILD
BEFORE YOU DIE... RAKETEN PANZERBÜCHSE 43 ‘PANZERSCHRECK’
US troops with a captured Panzerschreck, the ‘terror of the tanks’...
H
ere we see four GIs at the corner of a house, one in position with a recently liberated Panzerschreck on his shoulder. The soldier to the left holds the RPzBGr 4322 projectile and is posing with it in a ‘loading’ position. The weapon seems in perfect condition; the battery for the electric igniter, the carrying strap and protective shield are all present and intact. We can also see that its threecolour camouflage paint finish is in good condition, albeit a little scraped in places. Dragon 1:35 figures could be used to create this scene, maybe with a US Army photographer taking the photo? It would make an appealing little vignette!
[email protected] See you again next time!
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NEW FROM ADH PUBLISHING
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Superdetailing, Painting and Weathering
Aircraft of WWII, with airfield accessories, ordnance and diorama
Aleksandar Počuč
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