Chris Wauchop’s beautiful 1:32 Tamiya F4U-1A Corsair
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aircraft edition
£6.50 - Nov15 (issue 055)
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RS Model’s Fokker D,XXI • Tamiya’s Opel Blitz & Eduard’s Bf 109 • Roden’s T-28B Trojan; G-6 • Wingnut Wings’ Fokker D.VII • QMHE 2015 Show Report • and more…
B BENT WING BIRD
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The International Plastic Modellers Society (UK) Presents
Saturday 7th November 2015 Open: 10.00am to 6.00pm
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The World’s Greatest Model Show Incorporating the IPMS (UK) National Competition
Contents
modeller military illustrated
ISSUE No.055 November 2015
4 6
6
NEWS
What’s happening in modelling and aviation
PUSH ME - PULL YOU
Eduard’s 1:48 Bf 109 G-6 and Tamiya Opel Blitz by Brett Green
16 PREVIEW
SBS 1:72 de Havilland Comet
18 BENT WING BIRD
Tamiya 1:32 F4U-1A Corsair by Chris Wauchop
26 DUTCH TWIN-IN-LINE
RS Models 1:48 Fokker D.XXIII by Kamil Feliks Sztarbala
38 THE BIG FIVE-O
Wingnut Wings 1:32 scale Fokker D.VII (OAW) by Gary Edmundson
44 PREVIEW
ADH Publishing’s “How to Build Tamiya’s 1:32 Mosquito”
46 FELIX 101
26
Revell 1:48 F/A-18E Super Hornet by Brett Green
56 QUICKER FIGURES
Easy figure painting techniques by Rafe Morrissey
60 SHOW REPORT QMHE 2015
65 NEXT ISSUES
What’s coming up in the next issues of Military Illustrated Modeller
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66 TAILPIECE
Eduard’s 1:48 Yak-1b
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Aircraft Edition
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News AIRFIX ANNOUNCES 1:24 CAR DOOR TYPHOON FOR 2016
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ithout doubt, one of the most impressive kits available to the plastic modelling enthusiast is the magnificent 1:24 scale Hawker Typhoon Mk.IB (A19002). The levels of detail that the Airfix design team has managed to capture is simply astonishing and even the most proficient modellers amongst us will find this kit to be a longer term project. As the largest model scale currently available in the Airfix range, these impressive 1:24 scale kits pose some particular problems for the designers. The sheer size of the model dictates that much more detail will be required on this type of model, and more than any other kit project will closely follow the actual construction of the real aeroplane. These models are the closest thing to a miniaturised version of a WWII Hawker Typhoon that a modeller can get their hands on. All this extensive research data would then allow the Airfix design team to work on every individual component of this model. This design work alone
took ten months to complete, which gives you some indication of the sheer amount of work that has to go in to one of these larger scale models. Even at the end of this design stage of the process when
the team can show beautifully rendered 3D CAD images of the new model, there is much work still to be done. A resin prototype model has to be produced, before all this information is passed to the toolmakers in the Far East who will begin the work of manufacturing the sizeable tools for this large model. More testing and more development work will have to be done before the new model is available for release, but I think it is fair to say that the bigger the model, the longer the development period. The exciting news is that this magnificent model has been upgraded and will now allow the modeller to construct an example of one of the first Hawker Typhoons to enter service. These early machines were somewhat rushed into service and it was discovered that a number of modifications would be desirable, if not totally essential. Perhaps the most noticeable difference from the later models were around the canopy area – the first Typhoons were supplied with a forward opening ‘car door’ style cockpit entry for the pilot which even included a wind down window. The pilot also had a transparent roof panel, which hinged open to the left and some machines had the addition of a rearfacing mirror, on the canopy frame. This really is an exciting development for the 1:24 scale modeller and transforms the profile of this famous WWII low-level fighter and ground attack aircraft. Some of the other options this new version will allow are:
•
The new ‘car door’ style canopy structure • Earlier ‘car door’ pilots seat • Alternative main undercarriage wheel • Pneumatic tail wheel • Alternate cannon fairings for the guns • Different internal frame structure • 500Ib ‘Long Tail’ bombs In addition, this new version of the 1:24 scale Hawker Typhoon will give the modeller the option to construct his model with or without the main aerial in place, with a similar option for the pilot’s optional rear-facing mirror. This impressive new Typhoon kit is scheduled to be available in the summer of 2016. Thanks to Airfix for the text and images www.airfix.com •
WARMED-OVER DO 215 B-5 NIGHT FIGHTER FROM REVELL
D
iedrich Wiegmann has sent photos of the forthcoming Revell 1:48 scale Dornier Do 215 B night fighter: “This is Revell’s “new” 1:48 scale Dornier Do 215B-5 Nightfighter. It is the ICM-Kit, but with new parts. The exhaust-flame-dampers, and the under fuselage cannon-gondola even as a new clear part without the Lotfe-Bomb-Sight. I think it is now a better Do 215B-5. I like the kit. It was a fun kit to build!” Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For details visit www. revell.de/en, @RevellGermany or facebook. com/Revell •
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Military Illustrated Modeller - November 2015
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24/09/2015 09:53
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FEATURE ARTICLE: Eduard 1:48 Bf 109 G Royal Class • Kit No. R0009 Tamiya 1:48 German 3 Ton 4x2 Cargo Truck • Kit No. 32585
PUSH-ME, PULL YOU DISMANTLING EDUARD’S 1:48 BF 109 G Brett Green prepares Eduard’s 1:48 scale Royal Class Messerschmitt Bf 109 G-6 for transport by Tamiya’s new Opel Blitz.
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ometimes, the most interesting model projects happen almost by chance. I was fortunate enough to receive Tamiya’s new 1:48 scale Opel Blitz truck for review recently, and I decided to build this simple kit. There is no doubting the significance of the Opel Blitz, but I wanted to add a bit of extra visual interest to my model. My first idea was to fit a 2 cm Flak 38 gun in the cargo tray. This was not an uncommon combination, and it would be more eye-catching than the truck alone. Both Ace and Verlinden offer 1:48 scale Flak 38 kits, but neither was in my collection. With my tight magazine deadline, I didn’t have time to wait for international delivery, so I started looking for alternatives. Although it might have been technically feasible for the Blitz to mount a 2 cm Flakvierling or a 3.7 cm Flak 37, it seems that these guns were usually fitted to heavier trucks or Maultier versions. Deprived of my first options, I searched Google for alternatives. In the process, I found an illustration of a Messerschmitt Bf 109 partially dismantled and towed by an Opel Blitz. If I could not have an anti-aircraft gun in the back of my truck, I could certainly have an aircraft!
back in 2008 as Kit No. 89782. This was not Italeri’s finest kit, with accuracy issues around the shape of the windscreen and side windows, chunky and simplified details, thick road wheels and poor vinyl tyres. In its favour though, it included a cover for the cargo tray, and it was more widely available than the increasingly rare 1970s-vintage Bandai kit.
THE REAL TAMIYA OPEL BLITZ
Kit No. 32585 is an all-new Tamiya moulding with no parts in common with the Italeri Blitz. Tamiya’s brand new 1:48 scale Opel Blitz comprises 84 parts in dark grey plastic, a further 44 stowage parts in medium grey plastic, six parts in clear and markings for two vehicles. The six-hole front wheels identify this as an early production vehicle. The shapes look good. In particular, the windscreen and windows appear to be accurate – a big improvement over the Italeri kit. Another major step forward is the wheels. These are presented in injection-moulded plastic, with the rims and tyres moulded together and very nicely detailed. The chassis and lower areas are broken down simply but look convincing when assembled. Unlike the Italeri kit, the cab doors are separate and may easily be posed open or closed according to the modeller’s preference. The engine hood is made up from five separate parts with another for the grille. The medium-grey stowage sprue offers eight jerry cans, three 44 gallon drums, several packs and a bucket. Even if you don’t use these on the truck, they will come in very handy for the spares box. The decals provide markings for two Panzer Grey Wehrmacht vehicles.
TAMIYA’S NEW 1:48 OPEL BLITZ
The Opel Blitz was an enormously important vehicle. In total, more than 130,000 were produced. To put this figure into perspective, total Panzer production of all types was less than 50,000. This is not the first time that we have seen a 1:48 scale Opel Blitz in a Tamiya box, but it is the first time that we actually have Tamiya sprues. Tamiya re-boxed Italeri’s 1:48 scale Opel Blitz
Tamiya’s 1:48 scale Opel Blitz box top. This is an all-new kit with nothing at all in common with the earlier Italeri re-box.
The truck with its base coat of Panzer Grey – in this case, Tamiya XF-63 German Grey.
I wanted to depict this vehicle as being in service later in the war, so I assumed that the early-war grey would have been oversprayed at some stage. I settled on a very heavy but still uneven coat of Dark Yellow.
This small German wartime illustration was my inspiration for the project.
Aircraft Edition
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FEATURE ARTICLE: Eduard 1:48 Bf 109 G Royal Class • Kit No. R0009 Tamiya 1:48 German 3 Ton 4x2 Cargo Truck • Kit No. 32585
BLITZ CONSTRUCTION
Construction was generally very straightforward. This model could easily be built in under a day. I built the truck itself straight from the box. The only deviations I made were to pose the rear cargo tray flap horizontal to the tray, cut the hoops for the cover off the sides and front of the cargo tray, and to leave the wheels off until painting was complete. A few minutes was spent ageing the leather bench seat with airbrushed shading, an oil wash and subtle dry brushing. The interior of the cab was sprayed with Tamiya XF-63 German Grey prior to its assembly. Interior details such as the steering wheel and the shift knobs were painted black before the cab was sealed too. The clear parts were masked with Tamiya tape prior to installation.
The wing root fairing was first carved off with a new hobby blade…
…then tidied up with several increasingly fine grades of sanding stick.
The forward section of each fuselage half was cut off with a razor saw and a hobby knife.
The vertical fin was removed, although the demarcation is speculative!
PAINTING AND MARKINGS
As this was an early production vehicle, I sprayed an overall base coat of Tamiya XF-63 German Grey using my Iwata HP-C Plus airbrush. However, I wanted to depict a vehicle in service later in the war – around 1944. I thought that by that stage, the dark Panzer Grey paint job would have been oversprayed with a more appropriate camouflage. A heavy squiggle of Dark Yellow – almost solid in places - was therefore applied over the top of the German Grey base colour. The tyres were brush-painted using Vallejo acrylics. At this stage, the model received an overall coat of Alclad II Klear Flat. Weathering comprised a SIN Industries Brown Filter, chipping with a sponge and dark brown acrylic paint, and Maru Easy Mud.
FINDING A DONOR GUSTAV
With the truck complete, I had to make some decisions about its winged cargo. I had built Eduard’s 1:48 scale Messerschmitt Bf 109 G-6 when it was first released early in 2014. Although it suffers from a number of dimensional and detail accuracy problems, it was a pleasure to build. After finishing this Gustav, I had also received a review sample of the Eduard 1:48 scale Royal Class Bf 109 G release, which supplies enough parts to build two complete models as Bf 109 G-2, G-4, G-6 or G-14 variants. Considering this project would require the model to be chopped up, the Eduard kit offered some helpful attributes, including the engineering of the wing roots and wheel wells, and the availability of an after-market resin engine bay, which I also had in my model stash. Slicing and dicing the kit would also make it almost impossible to see its well-publicised dimensional problems, but would be an excellent showcase for its class-leading surface textures and high level of detail.
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Parts from Eduard’s gorgeous and highly detailed BRASSIN Bf 109 G-6 Engine and Guns set were used.
Not many parts though – just the firewall and the gun deck. The large casting stubs have been removed using a cutting wheel on my Dremel motor tool.
With any major model transformation, it is always essential to test fit regularly. At this stage, I discovered that I had to remove the plastic firewall from the front of the cockpit floor.
Cockpit floor and rear bulkhead subassembly, including the seat. I have also glued the panel behind the pilot’s head on at this stage. In my opinion, this made painting the cockpit cleaner and easier.
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Basic RLM 66 Black Grey was achieved using Tamiya XF-63 German Grey. A dark acrylic wash of Future floor polish, water and Tamiya XF-1 Flat Black has been brushed over the surface detail too.
Eduard’s new “Super Fabric” harness straps – simple, flexible and very effective.
Cockpit elements straight from the box with the exception of the harness.
The cockpit floor sub-assembly has been glued to the port fuselage sidewall.
Aircraft Edition
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FEATURE ARTICLE: Eduard 1:48 Bf 109 G Royal Class • Kit No. R0009 Tamiya 1:48 German 3 Ton 4x2 Cargo Truck • Kit No. 32585
The starboard fuselage half was added to trap the cockpit in place.
I only used two pieces from the BRASSIN engine set, but they are beautifully detailed. The gun deck and firewall have been glued together here.
PREPARATIONS FOR DISMANTLING
Eduard’s BRASSIN Bf 109 G-6 Engine and Guns set, Item No. 648141, includes a comprehensive engine bay and top engine cowls. Despite this high level of detail, I only planned to use the firewall and the machine gun deck. I used my Dremel motor tool fitted with a cutting wheel to remove the chunky casting blocks on these two resin parts. Next, the wing root fairings moulded to the fuselage halves had to be removed. This also eliminates the questionable bumps on Eduard’s wing root fairings – another problem bites the dust! I taped the area of the fuselage sides around the wing root to protect the surrounding plastic and began carving off the protruding fairing with a hobby knife. This was later tidied up with sanding sticks and Micro-Mesh polishing cloths. Next, the nose was cut from the fuselage halves using a razor saw and a hobby knife with a new blade, taking care to keep the forward wing root areas attached to the main fuselage halves. At this stage, the fuselage halves and the resin firewall and gun deck were taped together and checked for fit. So far, so good. The full-span lower wing was also separated into port, starboard and centre sections using a sharp hobby blade and self-adhesive Dymo tape as a guide. The leading edge slats are supplied as separate parts and are designed by Eduard to be posed in the dropped position, so some minor surgery was required to allow them to be glued shut. The raised locating tabs on the undersides of the slats were sliced off with a hobby knife.
The firewall assembly fitted painlessly between the fuselage halves. They were glued with super glue.
Tamiya tape was used to create a template for the wing root blank. The tape templates were stuck onto thin Evergreen sheet and cut out.
The wing root blanks were detailed with plastic strip and punched with my Waldron Punch and Die set.
On the real aircraft, the area behind the wing root was actually flush with the fuselage side, but I took the easy way out and just stuck my blanks onto the fuselage halves.
Dymo tape is a useful guide for cutting. It ensures that your cutting line is straight, and protects the surrounding plastic in case of slip-ups.
The full-span lower wing is now three separate parts.
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The new lower and upper wing halves. The wheel well jigsaw has been glued in place here.
Raised locating tabs were cut from the inside of the leading edge slats to allow them to be glued shut. Wing components ready to be glued together. All control surfaces will be neutral/closed.
I imagineered a bit of structural detail inside the root of the wing from plastic sheet.
The tape template approach was employed again for the wing jigs. These would Test-fitting the wings to the basic jigs. The jigs simply slip over hold the wings in the back of the truck. the wings.
The Erla hood and the windscreen were masked and sprayed Tamiya XF-63 German Grey.
The various sub-assemblies were sprayed with Tamiya Grey Primer straight from the can.
I used Gunze’s Mr Colour Spray for the first time on this project. The lower surfaces and fuselage were sprayed RLM 76 Light Blue. Two coats were needed.
Mr Colour RLM 75 Grey Violet lacquer, this time from a bottle and via my airbrush, applied to the spine and upper surfaces of the wings. I lightened the fuselage colour with around 50% RLM 76 Light Blue.
Aircraft Edition
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FEATURE ARTICLE: Eduard 1:48 Bf 109 G Royal Class • Kit No. R0009 Tamiya 1:48 German 3 Ton 4x2 Cargo Truck • Kit No. 32585
I prepared the underside of the wings for their broad yellow tips with a coat of Tamiya White Primer straight from the can. Yellow has a justafilably bad reputation for its poor coverage, and a white base coat really helps.
An RLM 75 Grey Violet background for the fuselage cross was sprayed with the assistance of homemade masks. The blue and the yellow.
Gunze Mr Hobby RLM 74 Grey Green, along with RLM 75 mottling on the fuselage sides. The mottle is built up very gradually, starting with short fine strokes.
Basic camouflage has been completed for the wings and the fuselage.
The green fuselage band was masked and sprayed.
The areas surrounding the wing roots and the firewall were masked in preparation for their coat of Gunze acrylic H70, RLM 02 Grey.
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The wing jigs and their supports were sprayed with Tamiya acrylic XF-55 Deck Tan prior to streaking with oil paints to suggest wood grain.
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The fuselage wing root area was just a continuation of the fuselage on the real Bf 109, but for the sake of convenience and ease of assembly I took a bit of artistic license and created separate wing root “panels”. These were sized by tracing the shape of the wing roots onto a piece of Tamiya tape that had been stuck onto the side of the fuselage. The basic panels were enhanced with additional scrap and strip plastic, and with holes punched using my Waldron Punch and Die set. A similar technique was used to create the vertical jigs that carried the wings in the back of the truck. Scale plans were used to trace the sectional aerofoil of the wings onto Tamiya tape, and the tape was then transferred to thin plastic. The outlines were then cut out with a sharp knife. Beyond these preparations, the model was built pretty much straight from the box! I also took the opportunity to try Eduard’s new Super Fabric harness straps, Item No. 49081. These are printed with buckles and other hardware in place. All you need to do is lift one end of the strap with a hobby knife and fix it to the seat using white glue. The material drapes like real fabric and is easy to handle – another great harness option for modellers of all scales.
Kit decals were applied over several glossy coats of Future Floor Polish.
Canopy masks were removed after a final flat coat. Annoyingly, there were several large pieces of dust on the inside of the canopy. I didn’t really have any choice other than to pop the canopy off and remove the dust. Unfortunately, the windscreen did not fit back on perfectly.
PAINTING AND MARKINGS
Painting and weathering techniques were similar to a number of my recent Luftwaffe projects. The captions will offer more detail. Markings are generic, working on the assumption that this airframe is being shunted around a factory yard before being allocated to a front-line Jagdgeschwader. The green band was masked and sprayed. The decals are from the Eduard Royal Class Cartograf-printed sheet.
The upper wings, weathered with thinned oil paints and decaled.
The completed lower wing surfaces.
For additional interest, I painted the gear legs and wheel hubs red. This was a reminder to ground crew that this aircraft should only be filled with 100 octane fuel.
The mounts for the undercarriage legs were transferred from the wings to the fuselage. Here, the fuselage stands on its own, looking like some futuristic mechanical insect.
Both the tail wheel strut and the bottom of the tail wheel tyre were reinforced with wire.
Aircraft Edition
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FEATURE ARTICLE: Eduard 1:48 Bf 109 G Royal Class • Kit No. R0009 Tamiya 1:48 German 3 Ton 4x2 Cargo Truck • Kit No. 32585
The jig elements, painted and awaiting assembly.
The wing jigs were assembled into pairs.
The jigs are slipped over the wings, ready to be dropped into the cargo tray.
CONCLUSION
I really enjoyed this project, and it might not be quite over yet. I am very tempted to build a diorama around the pair of models, and add some figures too. One day, one day! •
What about the Opel Blitz? More details and photos on the assembly, painting and weathering of Tamiya’s new Opel Blitz may be found in Issue 115 of Model Military International magazine.
A length of brass rod was fitted to the back of the truck’s cargo tray. This would be inserted in the tail wheel to secure the fuselage.
The wartime illustration shows wires or cables running from the undercarriage legs to the back of the truck. I represented these wires with elastic E-Z Line. The line was hooked over the protruding bottom of the brass wire that also held the tail wheel in the truck.
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MODELSPEC Eduard 1:48 Messerschmitt Bf 109 G-6
Kit No. 8268
Accessories Used: • Eduard BRASSIN Item No. 648141 - Bf 109 G-6 Engine and Guns set • Eduard Item No. 49081 - Seatbelts Luftwaffe WWII Fighters Modelling Materials Used:
All together now!
• Dymo Tape • Albion Alloys Brass Rod • Evergreen plastic strip and sheet • Waldon Precision Punch and Die Set Paints and Finishing Products Used: • Mr Hobby Lacquer Paints - Mr Colour 36 RLM 74 Grey Green; 37 RLM 75 Grey Violet • Mr Colour Spray - 117 RLM 76 Light Blue • Tamiya Acrylic Paints - XF-1 Flat Black; XF-64 Red Brown; X-25 Clear Green; X-27 Clear Red. • Future Floor Polish • Alclad II Flat Clear Excellent detail and fit; fine, crisp surface features. Dimensional and detail accuracy problems. Main landing gear legs need to be raked forward a few more degrees. Rating: 8 out of 10 Thanks to Eduard for the sample www.eduard.com
The DF loop behind the antenna mast was bent from a staple taken from a Tamiya plastic bag.
Cold work. Our combination is set against a Luftwaffe hangar door.
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Aircraft Edition
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SBS MODEL 1:72 DE HAVILLAND DH.88 COMET “RED & GREEN” • Kit No. SBS7003
THE RED AND THE GREEN Luke Pitt examines the lovely resin 1:72 scale de Havilland Comet by Czech manufacturer SBS Model.
T
here is an old saying, “You only get what you pay for”, and for this particular 1:72 scale scale kit from S.B.S models this statement beautifully sums up the kit presented for review. In 1933, an air race was being planned that would not only test man and machine but also bring forth a new sleek twin engine design that would eventually evolve into the WW II Mosquito. De Havilland’s chief designer A.E Hagg at first proposed a wire braced wing with fixed landing gear. This was abandoned and in its place a clean tapered cantilever wing of stressed skin construction with a fully retractable landing gear would take shape. The wooden wing construction and its bonding was an entirely new concept, light weight but incredibly strong. The finished design was not only pleasing to the eye but futuristic when it took to the air in 1934. In fact, the design so new and clean it was copied by many Science Fiction artists of the day. SBS’s 1:72 scale de Havilland Comet comprises some 30 high quality resin parts, 6 white metal pieces a small photo etch fret and instrument film. A decal sheet with either the all red race winner “Grosvenor House” or the all green 3rd place entry is included. The quality of the resin casting is first class. The castings have no air bubbles or warpage present. Attention to detail is simply amazing with a very detailed and complete cockpit included. The one piece resin canopy is both crystal clear and remarkably thin. The two engine nacelles are cast as one piece each and have detail within the wheel well itself. The wings and tailplane assemblies are wafer thin and almost scale in thickness. The instructions are simple yet effective and should provide no challenges in parts placement. A full colour painting guide rounds this out. The kit is almost broken down into a conventional plastic kit configuration and has even location holes with in the fuselage.
CONCLUSION
This kit is without a doubt one of the best 1:72 scale resin aircraft kits that I have ever seen. The ease of construction, the attention to detail and the finesse of the trailing edges puts this kit in a class all of its own. If you like this aircraft and have the old Airfix example, do yourself a favour and throw it away as I have now done. This kit is light years ahead by comparison in every possible way.
Photo-etched detail parts including the instrument panel and harness straps. Resin detail parts.
Markings are supplied for the red and green racers. Wheel well detail is cast inside the nacelles.
White metal landing gear legs.
The clear resin canopy and windscreen, plus the nose light lens.
The one-piece port and starboard wings with control surfaces cast in place.
Highly Recommended. Available online from SBS Model www.sbsmodel.com/resinsets •
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FEATURE ARTICLE: TAMIYA 1:32 VOUGHT F4U-1A CORSAIR. • Kit No. 60325
BENT-WING
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NG BIRD
Chris Wauchop builds Tamiya’s gorgeous 1:32 scale F4U-1A Corsair.
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he combat career of the F4U Corsair stretched longer than any other US Navy WWII fighter aircraft. The first of more than 12,000 Corsairs were produced in 1940, and the last of these bent wing birds were still doing battle above Central America nearly thirty years later. The Vought Aircraft company had a strong association with the US Navy during the inter war decades, but their focus in the 1930s was observation aircraft, trainers and seaplanes. In response to a US Navy specification issued in February 1938, Vought submitted two designs. With the second of these carrier-based fighter proposals, Vought adopted the simple strategy of building the smallest possible airframe around the most powerful available engine. At the same time, Pratt & Whitney was developing the supercharged R-2800 radial engine. Radial engines had recently lost favour to the sleeker inline configuration, but the US Navy preferred the ruggedness and simplicity of the radial arrangement. Vought therefore designed their new V-166B around the Pratt & Whitney R-2800 powerplant. The brute force of the R-2800 engine had to be absorbed by a correspondingly large propeller. With a diameter of 13’ 4”, the Hamilton Standard three-bladed propeller assembly was the largest fitted to a fighter aircraft to that date. This imposing propeller needed very high ground clearance. Vought’s solution was to install an inverted gull wing. The main undercarriage was fitted to the lowest point of the wing, improving ground clearance for the propeller while still permitting robust landing gear – essential for carrier landings. This design also lowered the profile of the Corsair with the wings folded, and strengthened the join with the fuselage via its sturdy central spar. The result was the sole prototype XF4U-1, which first flew on 29 May, 1940. The ruggedness of Vought’s design was proven at the end of that maiden flight when the aircraft flipped after a forced landing. Although the prototype was badly damaged, it was repaired and flew again within months. Indeed, before the end of 1940 the XF4U1 became the first US fighter aircraft to exceed 400 mph in level flight. Further development was required to iron out a number of undesirable flying and landing characteristics. In December 1942 the Corsair commenced carrier trials. Ongoing problems with poor pilot visibility on final approach and premature port wing stall disqualified the Corsair from US carrier operations at this time.
Aircraft Edition
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FEATURE ARTICLE: TAMIYA 1:32 VOUGHT F4U-1A CORSAIR. • Kit No. 60325
The kit’s Pratt & Whitney R-2800-8W engine with ignition harness was enhanced using fine solder and extra plumbing from brass wire. In this shot the exhaust manifold is only temporarily fitted, as the engine’s paint job is not yet complete. Even though most of this detail will not be visible once installed, I still enjoyed the painting and weathering process. The colour used on the crank case cover etc, was a mix of Gunze Sangyo H56 Intermediate Blue and H57 Aircraft Grey. The cylinders, ignition ring and prop shaft were sprayed with Alclad ALC 101 Aluminum. Heat deflectors, pushrods and anything else that needed to be black were painted Tamiya X-18 Semi-gloss Black.
The engine with paint job complete and manufacturer’s logo decal added.
Extra detail was added to busy-up the cockpit interior. This included lots of wiring and Barracuda’s beautiful stencil and placard decal set. The kit decals were used for the main and side instrument panels but with a slight variation. Instead of applying the instrument decals per the instructions to the back of the clear kit parts, I cut each individual dial face from the decal sheet, and once removed from its backing paper, flipped it over and very carefully positioned it on the front of each, individual dial. When the decals were completely set, these panels were glued in place behind the black painted main instrument panels. Each dial face then received a drop of clear gloss.
After a bit of weathering, the seat with safety harness and oxygen bottle was glued to the rear bulkhead.
However, the first land based Corsair Marines squadron entered front line service in February 1943. The famous Jolly Rogers, VF-17, became the first US Navy Corsair unit to see action shortly after. The Corsair immediately demonstrated its superiority over Japanese fighters with an impressive kill ratio. The performance of the F4U also proved to be at least on equal footing with its US Army Air Force fighter counterparts, the P-47 and the P-51. The Corsair was also adopted by the British Fleet Air Arm. Unlike the US Navy, Britain operated their Corsairs on carriers from their first sorties in March 1944. With their strikes against the Tirpitz, the Fleet Air Arm was the only Corsair operator to face German forces. US Navy Corsairs were eventually cleared for carrier use in April 1944, in time to deal with the Kamikaze threat later that year. The Royal New Zealand Air Force was the third Corsair operator in the Pacific. 238 F4U-1As, 126 -1Ds and 60 FG-1Ds served with 13 RNZAF squadrons from May 1944.
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CORSAIR UPGRADED
An improved version of the Corsair was soon introduced. Although it is now popularly known as the F4U-1A, this designation was never used officially. This new version featured a taller canopy with less framing, a simplified windscreen, the pilot’s seat was raised seven inches and the tail wheel strut was lengthened. These measures improved visibility for the pilot. The rear quarter windows were also deleted on this version. Also new was a six-inch metal strip added to the starboard wing leading edge to improve stall performance, heavy-duty undercarriage oleo struts to reduce bounce on landing, and the introduction of a larger diameter pneumatic tyre for the tail wheel. All of these features meant that this was the first version of the F4U-1 Corsair to be fully carrier capable. The clear window beneath the cockpit was covered with sheet metal. The F4U-1A was also the first Corsair capable of carrying either a drop tank of a 500 lb bomb on a centreline rack.
TAMIYA AND THE CORSAIR
Tamiya released their 1:48 scale F4U-1 Corsair around 1996. Hobbycraft had the great misfortune to release their 1:48 scale Corsair kits around the same time. Tamiya’s was superior in all the important areas - accuracy, detail, engineering and fit. This was the first in a line of Tamiya 1:48 scale Corsairs that included an F4U-1D and F4U1A, released in that order. Tamiya also released 1:72 scale F4U-1D, F4U-1A and F4U-1 Bircage Corsairs between 2001 and 2006. Following the launch of their groundbreaking 1:32 scale Spitfire Mk.IX in 2009, Spitfire Mk.VIII in 2010, P-51D Mustang in 2011 and their P-51K in 2012, Tamiya released their 1:32 scale F4U-1 “Birdcage” Corsair in mid-2013. This was an outstanding kit in every respect. Tamiya has now expanded their 1:32 scale Corsair family with an F4U-1A. This variant offers a wider range of camouflage and marking possibilities. I’m sure that many modellers have been hanging out for this one!
Military Illustrated Modeller - November 2015
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Cockpit side panels were also detailed with wiring, handles and Barracuda decals.
Port sidewall painted and detailed.
Cockpit elements painted, assembled and ready for installation. In the bottom of this shot can be seen four silver-coloured pushrods that I have glued into four pre-drilled holes at their entry point which is on the corner of the lower left instrument panel. These holes can be seen more clearly in the earlier shot of the interior. With a bit of careful persuasion the pushrods fitted neatly into the throttle quadrant that is mounted on the port fuselage side wall.
With the cowl flaps being installed in the open position I thought it was necessary to include some representation of their very visible and rather complicated wire and pulley system. It’s nowhere near 100% accurate but I feel that my scratch-built offering made from Evergreen plastic card and rod and stretched sprue for the pulley wires is a lot better than nothing at all.
The back of the cowl flaps with the added detail was painted interior green and weathered with a black/brown oil wash.
Undercarriage parts assembled, painted and weathered. Barracuda’s resin replacement main wheels and tyres were used in place of the kit’s flexible vinyl offering. After a more careful examination of existing photographic evidence, the tail wheel assembly was repainted black and its tyre was given a modest flat spot.
Plumbing was added to the wheel wells using fine solder wire. This was actually quite complicated, so good reference is essential.
Aircraft Edition
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29/09/2015 11:27
FEATURE ARTICLE: TAMIYA 1:32 VOUGHT F4U-1A CORSAIR. • Kit No. 60325
The three main camouflage colours have now been sprayed. These comprise a 50/50 mix of Tamiya XF-2 Flat White and X-2 Gloss White on the under surfaces, Gunze Sangyo H56 Intermediate Blue on the fuselage sides, vertical tail and underneath the outer main wings, and a 70/30 mix of Gunze Sangyo H326 Gloss Blue and Tamiya XF-18 Medium Blue on the main upper surfaces. The initial application of these colours looks, and is, rather patchy but this will be beneficial to the upcoming weathering process. The results of this method will be very evident on the forward fuselage around the leaky fuel tank.
In this shot the weathering process is well underway. The fuel stains have been applied down the fuselage side and across the inner rear wing by spraying a very thin mix of one part Tamiya XF-59 Desert Yellow to about twenty parts thinners. It was very carefully sprayed with the airbrush on its finest setting and built up very gradually. This colour was also used to add scuff marks and to generally dirty-up most of the upper surfaces. Also in this shot it can be seen that I have masked and sprayed the wing walkways dark grey rather than black. Chipping to the paint has been added using a very sharp Prismacolor silver pencil.
Seen in this and the previous shot is chipping along the fuel cell panel lines. In reality this was the result of the removal of the white sealing tape that was used, fairly unsuccessfully, to stop the fuel leaks seen so often on operational Corsairs. The Prismacolor silver pencil was used to reproduce this effect as well.
All panel lines have been carefully painted using a 10/0 paintbrush and a very watery wash of Tamiya X-18 Semi Gloss Black. Exhaust staining on the fuselage belly, gun dust behind the shell ejection ports and general grubbiness around panel lines have all been carefully sprayed using a very thin mix of Tamiya Flat Black and Red Brown. Also of note is the difference in the shades of intermediate blue applied to the outer wing undersurfaces. This is evident in several photos of operational aircraft and was probably a result of the field application of different paint stocks.
IN THE BOX
Tamiya’s 1:32 scale Vought F4U-1A Corsair comprises more than 450 parts in grey plastic; 49 parts in clear (includes 22 limited edition clear cowl parts); four black plastic pieces; two frets of photoetched metal; one self-adhesive metallic name plate; a self-adhesive masking sheet; two vinyl tyres; two metal rods; one screw; one nut; one small screwdriver; one poly cap; and two decal sheets with markings for three schemes. The parts count may seem daunting, but quite a number of parts are for alternative versions and configurations. The engineering of the kit is straightforward too. Building the big Tamiya Corsair is trouble free as long as you pay careful attention to the instructions. Tamiya transforms the Birdcage into the F4U-1A
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with two new grey sprues and another new sprue in clear plastic. The first of the new grey sprues, Sprue R, includes revised cockpit parts to permit the elevation of the pilot’s seat, a revised instrument panel, pilot’s armour, coaming and cockpit details, a choice of two styles of new turtledeck insert without the quarter windows, solid cover for the lower cockpit viewing window, plus new parts for the tail wheel, tail hook and rear undercarriage doors. Sprue T offers a centreline rack, a bomb, a drop tank, new igintion ring and magnetos, and additional tail gear parts. The new clear parts are thin and sparkling and totally free from distortion. The partially framed canopy looks good in shape and is part of the new clear sprue.
Self-adhesive canopy masks are included for the new canopy and windscreen. The frames are printed onto the sheet but they are not die cut, so you will have to cut the individual masks out yourself (not a great chore though). Otherwise, the plastic sprues are the same (and just as gorgeous) as those included in the debut Birdcage kit. Surface detail is possibly even finer than Tamiya’s 1:32 scale Mustang. Crisply recessed panel lines are supplemented with rows of extremely restrained rivets. The visibility of the rivets varies depending on the angle and intensity of available light, ranging from subtly noticeable to almost imperceptible. Several different sizes of rivets are apparent too, as are selected slotted screw heads and raised hinges.
Military Illustrated Modeller - November 2015
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The last addition I made was the radio antenna wire and after looking at photographs and diagrams I could see that there were several variations in the way that this wire could be attached. After more careful examination of my reference I noticed that most of the aircraft from VMF-321 had their antenna fitted in one particular configuration. This being from the spigot at the top of the vertical tail, to the outer panel line on the leading edge of the starboard horizontal tail plane, and from there, to the feed-in point on the starboard side of the fuselage spine. To achieve this, small holes were drilled at all three attachment points and two lengths of nylon monofilament with 0.5mm brass tube representing insulators were glued in place.
Engine detail may be appreciated when the cowls are removed.
Fabric detail on the control surfaces and on the outer wing panels is restrained. The fuselage halves are each presented in two main parts. Several options are possible for the turtledeck, mid upper spine and the top of the aircraft nose thanks to the use of inserts. The joins for these inserts fall on natural panel lines. The cockpit is beautifully detailed and is modified for this version. The seat was raised in the -1A, and this is depicted correctly. The instrument panel follows the lead of Tamiya’s other 1:32 scale kits, with a clear part sandwiched between a grey plastic panel and decals at the rear. Photo-etched parts make an appearance in the
Note the heavy fuel staining on the forward fuselage.
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29/09/2015 11:30
FEATURE ARTICLE: TAMIYA 1:32 VOUGHT F4U-1A CORSAIR. • Kit No. 60325
‘If you have the slightest interest in the F4U Corsair family, Tamiya’s new 1:32 scale kit will be an essential ornament for your modelling bench.’ The separate engine cowlings.
The lower surfaces of the model feature careful weathering.
Note the pale-coloured sealant painted onto the windscreen.
Tamiya’s 1:32 scale F4U-1A Corsair is a magnificent kit.
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Military Illustrated Modeller - November 2015
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MODELSPEC Tamiya 1:32 Vought F4U-1A Corsair. A profile view of Luscious Lil-Nan.
Kit No. 60325
Materials and Updates Used: EagleCals EC#161 F4U-1 Corsairs Part 1 BarracudaCals BC32129 F4U-1 Corsair Cockpit Stencils and Placards decal set BaracudaCast BR32119 Corsair, Hellcat Wheels-Diamond Tread Evergreen .020 Plastic Sheet and .035 Rod. 0.335mm Solder Wire Invisible Mending Thread Paints Used: Gunze Sangyo acrylic H56 Intermediate Blue, H58 Interior Green, H326 Blue FS 15044, H57 Aircraft Grey Tamiya acrylic XF-1 Flat Black, XF-2 Flat White, X-2 White, X-18 Semi Gloss Black, XF-18 Medium Blue, XF-64 Red Brown, XF-59 Desert Yellow Alclad II Lacquer ALC 101 Aluminum, ALC 313 Klear Kote Matte Prismacolor PC949 Metallic Silver pencil
A good view of the chipping applied to the wing root area.
References: Squadron/Signal Publications Aircraft No. 29 F4U Corsair in action The Internet One of the best kits that I have ever built! None that I can think of.
RATING: 9.5 out of 10
Tamiya kits are distributed in the UK by The Hobby Company Limited www.hobbyco.net Wing tip lights and fuel cap.
Machine gun ports were taped over to avoid the guns freezing at altitude.
cockpit. They are used for the harness straps and a number of other details. The R-2800 radial engine is beautifully detailed too. This is an all-plastic affair so assembly should be straightforward. The ignition leads are not included, so you might like to add fine wire to depict these. The ends of the exhaust pipes are hollowed out. Cowl flaps may be posed either open or closed. Different parts are supplied for each option. Control surfaces including the elevators, flaps and ailerons are all provided as separate parts, but they are poseable as opposed to moveable. I actually like this approach as I tend to glue my control surfaces in position anyway, and it is certainly easier and more positive than metal rods and hinges. With the optional folded wings and small wing doors associated with the Corsair’s flaps, hinged surfaces would have involved some necessary compromises in detail and scale too. Similarly, the undercarriage may be built either down or up; and the flaps can be built either extended or folded. You’ll need to decide on your model’s configuration around Step 37 of construction. The wing intakes, structure, spars and landing gear bays are intricate and authentic. Photoetched parts are employed for the intakes and some of this structural detail.
The landing gear legs - all three - also look fantastic.Tyres are vinyl. The horizontal stabilisers and fin are attached to the fuselage via stout fixed locating slots. A stout black plastic stand is supplied for “in-flight” display, along with a self-adhesive metallic label. Two pilot figures round out the package – one standing and the second seated in full flight gear. Markings are supplied for three aircraft plus extensive stencilling. Wing walks, a reversed instrument dial decal, placards and more stencils are supplied on a second sheet.
CONSTRUCTION
Chris has covered the detail and painting through the detailed captioning of the accompanying photos.
CONCLUSION
Once again, Tamiya has delivered a truly outstanding model. If you have the slightest interest in the F4U Corsair family, Tamiya’s new 1:32 scale kit will be an essential ornament for your modelling bench. If you have bought one yet, do yourself a favour and build Tamiya’s Corsair soon! Highly Recommended. •
Aircraft Edition
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29/09/2015 11:31
FEATURE ARTICLE: RS MODELS 1:48 FOKKER D.XXIII • Kit No. 48001
TWIN-IN-L
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Military Illustrated Modeller - November 2015
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N-LINE Kamil Feliks Sztarbala improves RS Models’ limitedrun injectionmoulded 1:48 scale Fokker D.XXIII.
T
he Fokker D.XXIII was the final fighter aircraft developed by the Fokker company. The single prototype of this unorthodox Dutch warplane made its first flight on 30 May 1939. Due to various problems with engines, the prototype completed less than four hours of flighttesting before its subsequent destruction during the German invasion of the Netherlands. Given the fact that the D.XXIII was built too late to take part in WWII, nor had anything common with Luftwaffe aircraft types, it is not surprising that none of the mainstream companies showed any interest in this aircraft. However, in such cases, we can always count on shortrun kit manufacturers from the Czech Republic. One of them is RS Models, which until recently, specialised in producing 1:72 scale limited run kits of relatively obscure subjects. Since I tend to avoid braille-scale aircraft, I never had a chance to build any of their products, so when the Czech brand branched out into 1:48 scale, I decided to give a try to the first release from the new range. At first glance, the quarterscale Fokker appeared to be a typical, mediocre quality, short run kit. I had dealt with such models many times, so I would be rather surprised if this one went together easily. •
Aircraft Edition
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FEATURE ARTICLE: RS MODELS 1:48 FOKKER D.XXIII • Kit No. 48001
ASSEMBLY
I encountered the first major problem at the very beginning of the build. The engine, which would be visible through the cowl air intake, was simplified to such an extent that it couldn’t be improved.
The remaining parts of the engine were created from lengths of various styrene strips of different profiles.
Once I’d painted the engine with Mr. Color SM-04 ‘Stainless’, I applied AK-Interactive AK2033 ‘Engine & Turbine Wash’ to bring out the details. Before the enamel fully dried, I removed any excess by rolling a cotton bud over the surface.
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The only solution was to build a new one from scratch. I began by creating the cylinders. To reproduce the cooling fins, I wrapped a length of lead wire around a strip of plastic rod.
The resulting representation of the engine looked far more convincing than the original kit part.
To replicate the remnants of paint that would mostly chip off the engine, I applied a little Vallejo 70861 ‘Glossy Black’ over the cylinders, using a piece of sponge, held with tweezers.
Military Illustrated Modeller - November 2015
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The fuselage halves required a lot of flash removal. The easiest way to remove the excess plastic from some certain areas was to use a simple DIY tool, which I had made by gluing a piece of sandpaper to a piece of 0.5 mm styrene sheet.
With that fixed, I could deal with the exhausts themselves. This was yet another case when it was easier to replace the kit parts than try to amend them. To reproduce the rear engine exhausts, I cut some brass tubing from Griffon Model, into a few equal lengths and embedded them within a length of styrene rod.
The apertures for the exhaust pipes were corrected using pointed tip grinding bits from Hobby Elements’ ‘Molding Flash Sander’ set. I then smoothed the edges of the apertures with a toothpick.
In the case of the front engine exhausts, the sequence of work had to be different. Firstly, I glued two pieces of 0.5 mm styrene sheet inside the fuselage, and sanded them slightly, in order to avoid any interference with the engine.
The parts that build up the interior, fitted quite well, but each of them had to be carefully cleaned of any moulding flaws.
The air cooling and compressing device, positioned behind the cockpit, required some significant details to be added.
Once I’d attached the pipes, made from brass tubing, I again sanded this area from the inside.
I also created a simple representation of the firewall, using a piece of 0.5 mm styrene sheet, and subsequently glued a lead weight to this. However, it would soon turn out that this wasn’t enough to weigh down the kit’s front section…
The assembled cockpit was primed with Mr. Color C8 ‘Silver’, whilst the remaining interior surfaces received a priming coat of Tamiya XF-1 ‘Flat Black’. Next, I pre-shaded some chosen areas with heavily diluted black paint… Another missing detail was the seat rack. To ensure its correct alignment to the cockpit floor, I drilled a few mounting holes in the latter.
The sidewalls of the fuel tank had to be sanded down prior to installing the air cooling and compressing device and a small rack.
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Aircraft Edition
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25/09/2015 10:19
FEATURE ARTICLE: RS Models 1:48 Fokker D.XXIII • Kit No. 48001
...and added more variety to the plain silver surfaces by airbrushing a few transparent layers of AK479 ‘Aluminium’ and AK480 ‘Dark Aluminium’, from AK-Interactive’s ‘Xtreme Metal’ range.
Afterwards, I brush painted some details with Vallejo acrylics.
The metallic surfaces were then treated with AK-Interactive AK2072 ‘Paneliner for Grey and Blue Camouflage’. I applied small quantities of this enamel into various recesses, and around protruding detail, using a fine brush. The excess enamel was removed with a dry cotton bud.
To accentuate the details of the air cooling and compressing device and its base, I applied a little AK-Interactive AK2033 ‘Engine & Turbine Wash’.
The instrument panel was sprayed with an even layer of Tamiya XF-1 ‘Flat Black’. Next, I highlighted the raised details with white acrylic paint, using the drybrushing technique and additionally emphasized them with AK-Interactive AK075 ‘Wash for NATO Camo Vehicles’.
The final touch was to create the glass instrument lenses with a few tiny drops of Ammo MIG-094 ‘Crystal Glass’.
With the interior complete, I could now close up the fuselage. A lot of sanding was necessary to adjust both halves and to smoothly finish the joint seams.
Upon test fitting the canopy to the fuselage, it turned out that the armour plate behind the pilot’s head was too high. What’s more, it was inclined at the incorrect angle.
A little dirt was added to the floor using AK-Interactive AK4063 ‘Brown Earth Deposit’.
‘I had dealt with such models many times, so I would be rather surprised if this one went together easily.’ The first issue was quickly fixed by sanding down the upper edge of the armour plate…
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...whilst resolving the second one, required adding a small positioning pin inside the canopy.
Military Illustrated Modeller - November 2015
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The canopy was slightly different in shape than the adjacent fuselage areas. I filled the resulting ‘step’ with cyano…
The missing rivets were punctured with a large sewing needle.
...in order to replace it with a piece of photo-etched mesh.
To emphasise the demarcation of the movable parts of the wing, I used Olfa’s scriber which carves wider lines than other similar tools.
...masked off the canopy with Tamiya tape, and smoothed the irregularities of the surface.
Now I had to restore the panel lines that were damaged during the sanding process. For this purpose, I used Mr. Paint’s scriber and 3M tape.
The air intake located at the bottom of the fuselage also had to be improved.
Mating the intake with the fuselage required extensive sanding.
The trailing edge was thinned down by scraping some plastic from the inner sides of the wing parts, using a curved scalpel blade.
Using a rotary tool, I removed the crude intake screen…
The limitations of short run moulding always bring a lot of trouble when it comes to dealing with the wing and tailplane. Firstly, I refined the panel lines using Trumpeter’s scriber.
I also scribed the ailerons and control surfaces with a similar, but smaller blade, in order to reproduce the fabric texture.
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29/09/2015 11:35
FEATURE ARTICLE: RS MODELS 1:48 FOKKER D.XXIII • Kit No. 48001
The assembled wing was fitted to the fuselage. The large gap that emerged along the joints was no surprise.
I filled it with some scrap plastic, and sealed this with cyano.
This allowed me to ensure correct alignment of the booms and wing.
Finally, I adjusted and glued the horizontal tail.
Of course, all the joint areas had to be carefully sanded and smoothed. Afterwards, I focused on the booms. My first step was to temporarily connect them to the horizontal tail.
Once I’d mounted the landing gear, I discovered that despite placing a significant weight within the fuselage, the kit was still a tail-sitter.
‘The Fokker D.XXIII was the final fighter aircraft developed by the Fokker company.’
To save the day, I threaded a lot of tin wire into the fuselage.
The gunsight was made from a length of 1 mm brass tubing and a spare photo-etched part…
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...whilst other left-over photo-etched details and styrene rod were used to create the gun barrels and fuselage railing.
Military Illustrated Modeller - November 2015
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PAINTING
The fully assembled kit, minus a few sub-assemblies that were to be painted separately, was primed with a layer of Mr. Color C8 ‘Silver’. Next, I accentuated the control surface demarcation with Tamiya XF-1 ‘Flat Black’. At this stage, I also airbrushed some fine streaks along the wings. The panel lines were darkened with heavily diluted Tamiya XF-10 ‘Flat Brown’.
The first camouflage colour to be applied was brown. The process of building up this colour on the lower and upper surfaces was begun by spraying meandering lines of Tamiya XF-10 ‘Flat Brown’.
To add more variety to the surface colour, I used Mr.Color C321 ‘Light Brown’. I airbrushed some meandering lines in a similar fashion to the method I usually employ during the pre-shading process; highlighing chosen details and adding more streaks in accordance with the direction of airflow.
This was followed by a filter of heavily diluted Tamiya XF-64 ‘Red Brown’.
The final effect was achieved by applying a few transparent layers of Mr.Hobby H406 ‘Chocolate Brown’.
Once the paint layer had fully dried, I could mask the camouflage demarcation. For this task, I used plasticine, as it may be formed easily into any desired shape. The yellow patches were sketched with a thin layer of Mr.Hobby H403 ‘Dark Yellow’.
Working in a similar way as with the brown surfaces, I proceeded to build up the colour by airbrushing some irregular, meandering lines and streaks of a lighter tone than the base colour. In this case, I used Tamiya XF-55 ‘Deck Tan’. To tone down the effect achieved thus far, I sprayed a few extremely thin layers of Mr. Hobby H403 ‘Dark Yellow’.
Aircraft Edition
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FEATURE ARTICLE: RS MODELS 1:48 FOKKER D.XXIII • Kit No. 48001
The next phase was performed in a similar manner to the previous steps. After masking off the yellow patches, I airbrushed a filter of heavily diluted Mr. Hobby H405 ‘Olive Green’…
The removal of the plasticine was as time-consuming as the previous masking process. To ensure that no remnants would be left on the surface, it is useful to gently wipe it with a cotton bud, dampened with white spirit.
As I wasn’t satisfied with the resulting effect, the final filter wasn’t applied with another transparent layer of the base colour, but instead with a more vivid Tamiya XF-5 ‘Flat Green’.
The paintwork was then sealed with a layer of clear gloss varnish.
The decals went on easily with a little help of Microscale setting solutions.
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...and created some discolouration with Mr. Color C308 ‘FS36375 Grey’.
The landing gear wells were accidentally oversprayed with brown paint during camouflage application. I corrected this using AK-Interactive AK3035 ‘Silver and Metal Midtones’ and ‘Gunmetal’ from Vallejo.
Only the black edges of the rudder markings required some minor retouching.
Military Illustrated Modeller - November 2015
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MODELSPEC RS Models 1:48 Fokker D.XXIII.
Kit No. 48001
Tools and Modelling Products Used: Tamiya Extra Thin Cement C.A. glue Plastruct styrene strip and rod Lead and tin wire Lead sheet Griffon Model brass tubing Hobby Elements Molding Flash Sander Mr.Paint, Trumpeter and Olfa scribers 3M tape Tamiya masking tape
Afterwards, I applied a layer of Mr. Top Coat Semi-gloss varnish.
Paints and Finishing Products Used:
This allowed me to dampen the upper surfaces with white spirit and apply a wash of Ammo MIG-1618 ‘PLW Deep Brown’, which was distributed with a brush.
he excess enamel was removed using a dry cotton bud.
Paints: Mr.Color and Hobby Color series from Mr.Hobby Tamiya acrylics Vallejo acrylics AK-Interactive acrylics and metalizers Ammo MIG acrylics Mr.Hobby clear varnishes Microscale decal solutions Talens White Spirit AK-Interactive weathering products: AK045 Dark Brown Wash AK075 Wash for NATO Camo Vehicles AK2031 Landing Gear Dust Effect AK2033 Engine & Turbine Wash AK2072 Paneliner for Grey and Blue Camouflage AK4063 Brown Earth Deposit
The lower areas were treated with darker and more intense enamel wash from AK-Interactive, i.e. AK045 ‘Dark Brown Wash’…
...whilst AK2072 ‘Paneliner for Grey and Blue Camouflage’ was used to bring out the details of the landing gear and its bays, which were painted with metallic colours.
Ammo MIG Weathering products: A.MIG-1408 Fresh Engine Oil A.MIG-1618 PLW Deep Brown Unique subject; simple parts breakdown
The kit was ready for the weathering process.
Some simplified detail; fit and alignment issues (to be expected with a limited run kit). RATING: 7 out of 10 RS Models are available from speciality hobby shops and from RS Models online http://rsmodels.cz
Aircraft Edition
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25/09/2015 10:21
FEATURE ARTICLE: RS MODELS 1:48 FOKKER D.XXIII • Kit No. 48001
WEATHERING
By applying a wash in the specific way that I earlier described, I not only accentuated the details, but also created the initial layer of wear and tear. Considering the limited usage of the Fokker, I had to act subtly whilst reproducing other signs of usage. Firstly, I added some damage to the paint layer by scratching it with the end of some tweezers, in order to reveal the silver undercoat.
A small amount of Ammo MIG-1408 ‘Fresh Engine Oil’ was applied in the engine area, over the surface that had been previously dampened with white spirit.
AK-Interactive AK2031 ‘Landing Gear Dust Effect’ was brushed onto the wheels and landing gear covers…
...and gently distributed using a cotton bud, dampened with white spirit.
The last step was to replicate the exhaust stains. For this purpose, I airbrushed a few misted applications of heavily diluted AK-Interactive AK075 ‘Wash for NATO Camo Vehicles’, over the specific areas. This required setting the micro air control valve on my airbrush to a minimal air pressure.
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Military Illustrated Modeller - November 2015
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The finished result!
Aircraft Edition
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FEATURE ARTICLE: WINGNUT WINGS 1:32 SCALE FOKKER D.VII (OAW) • Kit No. 32030
THE BIG
FIVE-O William Barker’s 1919 War Trophy Race Plane
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Gary Edmundson converts Wingnut Wings’ gem-like 1/32 scale Fokker D.VII into a between-the-wars racer.
A
t the end of World War I, Germany had to turn over all of its Fokker D.VII scout aircraft to the Allies under terms of the armistice, which mentioned these aircraft specifically. Clearly one of the best designs of the war, the Fokker D.VII continued to serve other air forces for years afterward. Canada received several of the aircraft, one of which was used by Canadian war hero William Barker in the Toronto to New York air race in August of 1919. Several photos of the aircraft and its distinctive race number 50 painted on the fuselage and lower wing were used as references to replicate Barker’s aircraft in 1:32 scale using Wingnut Wings kit 32030, with some minor modifications.
ENGINE
The distinctive air pump standing upright at the front of the Daimler-Mercedes 180hp is not apparent in period photos, and so I made the assumption that the aircraft was equipped with the 200hp version. Spark plug and ignition wire detail was added using stretched styrene sprue and thin copper wire respectively. Copper wire was also used to add tubing lines that led from the air pump. The crank case was sprayed with Alclad II Duraluminum lacquer, and the cylinders were painted with Tamiya’s XF-1 Flat Black acrylic. Any small parts that were called out for brass colour were painted with Testor’s Gold enamel, then later weathered with washes of dark brown oil paints. The ignition cables were painted dark brown
The Heine type propeller was masked with thin sections of Tamiya tape after a basecoat of XF-59 Desert Tan. XF-68 NATO brown was then sprayed on to give the effect of laminated wood.
after being primed. The intake manifold was also sprayed with Duraluminum, and later received a light airbrushing of Tamiya X-19 Smoke to give it a more steel-like appearance. The engine and various details were washed with black and brown oil paint diluted with mineral spirits, which enhanced the detail and began the weathering process. A small amount of dark brown pastel chalk pigment was also applied, which contributed a worn and used appearance. Closer to the end of construction, a copper wire extension from a small piece of brass tubing was added to the radiator cap area, and led down toward the lower part of the intake manifold as per a detail noted in reference photos.
FUSELAGE INTERIOR
A couple of small additions to the cockpit included making out of strip styrene the actuation rods from the throttle and spark advance lever leading forward into the engine compartment. Rigging was added to the frame with EZ-Line thread. The only parts requiring a woodgrain finish were the instrument panel and the small cockpit floor. These were airbrushed a light sandy tan using Tamiya’s XF-79 Desert Sand, and then gloss coated with Future floor acrylic. A mixture of raw umber and burnt sienna oil paints diluted with mineral spirit was brushed onto the glossy surface providing a brownish streaked effect resembling wood-grain. This was then airbrushed with Future
The kit’s engine was detailed with thin copper wire for the tubing and ignition cables. The cables were then primed and painted dark brown. Far left: Photo-etched seat belt detail was removed from the kit parts and cemented onto replacements made from sheet lead. Left: The lead replacement straps.
Aircraft Edition
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FEATURE ARTICLE: WINGNUT WINGS 1:32 SCALE FOKKER D.VII (OAW) • Kit No. 32030
Since the aircraft carried no guns, the cockpit coaming was modified with styrene sheet and epoxy putty.
Metal cowling and other parts from the forward section of the model were sprayed dark green and then masked using various references to have lilac coloured patches airbrushed on.
‘The lozenge colours on Wingnut’s decals are too vivid in my opinion, and I wanted a more subdued look.’
The lilac colour has been sprayed here.
floor acrylic to protect the surface and prepare the instrument panel for the decals. There were no guns mounted on Barker’s racing plane, so all of the parts used for the kit ‘s weapons including the ammo containers were left out and the gun mounting points trimmed from the interior supports. The forward cockpit coaming was modified by filling the gun cut-outs with pre-formed styrene sheet, and gaps were filled with putty and sanded smooth. An additional padded edge placed directly in front of the pilot was made from Aves epoxy putty, and shaped using a toothpick. The seat belts were replaced with lead sheet cut using the photo-etched kit parts as a template. I really feel that the p.e. seatbelts provided look too thin to be convincing, and being “springy” are hard to bend into a realistic shape even after annealing. The buckles and other fittings were cut from the kit parts and glued onto the lead strip with cyano glue. Painting the individual parts of the cockpit interior was done with Vallejo acrylics which don’t adhere well to bare plastic, so these parts were also primed with the Tamiya lacquer primer. Discovered later in construction was a mistake
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Rigging detail and actuation rods from the throttle assembly were added to the cockpit framework.
I made in trimming the nose section of the engine cowling frame. Because Barker’s aircraft featured the radiator style that had a side-mounted cap, the part trimmed from the frame should be the forward section. This allows the thicker radiator option to fit properly. A quick repair was mad by gluing in a support made from styrene rod and snipping off the front part of the frame. The interior framework was painted in a darker shade of grey-green than called for in the instructions, using XF-22 RLM grey as opposed to the brighter XF-76. I had to steal the interior 5-colour lozenge decals from the WnW Fokker D.VII (Alb) kit no. 32027 to decorate the cockpit walls. Joining the fuselage halves is a challenge with WnW D.VII kits. The cockpit section is a bit fatter than it should be, and since I’ve built one of the D.VII kits previously I knew to trim the outside edges of the cockpit framework to help the fit. Option C/D of the engine cowl panels was chosen after referencing photos of Barker’s D.VII. The forward cockpit coaming and all engine cowlings were painted in dark olive green XF-61 with Lilac “Stark” patches masked and airbrushed
afterward. The Lilac colour is formulated from a mix of Tamiya acrylics spelled out in the very comprehensive painting instructions. WnW do supply decal material in the lilac colour that can be cut out and applied if preferred.
5-COLOUR LOZENGE DECALS
The kit provides choices of 4 or 5 colour lozenge for the wings, but only 4-colour sections are provided for the fuselage. Since I had Wingnut Wings kit 32027 as mentioned previously, I used that kit’s 5-colour fuselage lozenge decals for this model. The fuselage and all flying surfaces were decaled after first priming with Tamiya’s lacquer grey and finishing with a gloss surface of Future. Although Wnw does not recommend the use of decal solutions, I did use Microsol to smooth down any bubbles and adhere any troublesome areas. The lozenge colours on Wingnut’s decals are too vivid in my opinion, and I wanted a more subdued look. I experimented on a scrap section of decal film by airbrushing a much diluted dirt-coloured mix of Tamiya acrylic over them. After studying the results, I proceeded to mute the overall appearance
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The instrument panel was given a woodgrain appearance by smearing thinned brown oil paint over a glossy tan surface.
The finished engine received several washes of dark brown and black oil paints to enhance detail and give a weathered appearance.
Since there was no armament on this aircraft, the ammunition bins were left out of the construction steps.
The Wingnut Wings 5-colour lozenge decals were sprayed with a diluted coat of dirt-coloured acrylic to experiment with how to tone down the lurid appearance of the kit decals.
Three sub-assemblies in progress of having the lozenge scheme muted. The upper wing in the middle is in the original kit-supplied look.
Oops! The fuselage framework had to be repaired with styrene rod (with the forward framework snipped off later) to allow the correct radiator to fit the model.
Decals from Pheon were used for Barker’s racing number. References showed a crude fabric repair that was emulated with a strip of decal painted khaki brown.
of the lozenge scheme by spraying on the diluted mix in several thin coats. The fuselage and wings were done separately. I wanted to avoid a homogeneous appearance of the finish since these aeroplanes were many times assembled with parts originating from different aircraft. Pheon decal sheet 32044 “Barker’s Snipe and Canadian Fokkers” provided the #50 racing number in 1:32 scale for William Barker’s D.VII. After applying the appropriate decals to both the underside of the wings and fuselage, I added some strips of scrap decal that had been painted khaki brown to mimic the repairs to the fuselage in a couple of places. The repair strips were then over-sprayed lightly in khaki brown. After glosscoating the area just below the cockpit, I was able to add the kit information stencil without any bubbles or silvering. I did not feel as comfortable trying to add the decal for the datum line, and used a coloured pencil to draw it in place using a straight-edge ruler. The upper and lower wing crosses used on Barker’s aircraft were not the style provided in the (OAW) kit. They were a smaller type of
cross and inset from the wingtips, and luckily available as spares from my previously built WnW D.VII kit (32011).
ATTACHING THE WINGS
The lower wing was glued into position several times (!). To avoid removing the decaled lozenge on the fuselage sides, the attachment points at the lower edges of the fuselage provide a minimal area for a glued joint. Once I was able to get the lower wing firmly in place, the upper wing placement went very smoothly. The locating holes for the wing strut assemblies provide a firm, aligned result when the upper wing is placed in position.
DETAILS
A pitot tube may be seen on the right upper wing of this aircraft in a period photo. Also evident is the impulse tubing that leads across the leading edge and down the rear inner wing strut on that side to the firewall. I made a pitot from brass tubing, and ran 1mm lead wire from it using cyano glue to hold it in place, along with small brackets made from lead strip. Also apparent in the same photo is the fact that
The lower wing crosses had to be liberated from the spares box using Wingnut Wings’ earlier Fokker D.VII (Fok) kit 32011.
the left aileron has been replaced with a right aileron from another aircraft, since the lozenge colour and remnants of the upper wing cross is visible. I cut the appropriate decals from the spare 5-colour lozenge available in the generous amount supplied in the kit. The control cables for the ailerons exit from the fuselage and run into ports in the upper wing. I had glued EZ Line into place in the upper wing, and connected them to the control lines exiting the fuselage with photo-etched turnbuckles from RB Productions. The left side lines ended up rather slack when I had completed the tricky task, so I carefully inserted a hooked wire into the cockpit and twisted the stretchy thread taught, and then added a drop of cyano glue to the lines where they exited the fuselage to avert that disaster. Near the conclusion of photographing the finished model, I remembered to add another detail seen in the same reference picture. The outer wing struts sported some sort of flag or pennant. I made an assumption of size, shape and colour, and made two triangular shapes from the soft metal of a wine bottle top. These were primed and painted a dull red and
Aircraft Edition
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FEATURE ARTICLE: WINGNUT WINGS 1:32 SCALE FOKKER D.VII (OAW) • Kit No. 32030
attached with a strip of the same soft metal to the rear of the outer wing struts.
WEATHERING
Areas of cowlings, access panels, wheel covers and landing gear wing fairing were treated to a wash of thinned oil paint using black and burnt umber. This enhanced the detail and also toned down the brightness of the finish. Chipped paint was added to cowling and fuselage details by painting small marks of silver enamel mixed with a touch of raw umber oil paint. Oil stains were added to the underside of the aircraft using thinned black and brown Winsor & Newton Series 1 oil paints. I concentrated the paint near the rear of the engine cowl, and then spread it thinner down the fabric lacing on the lower centreline of the fuselage. The exhaust stack was painted dark grey and dry-brushed with a metallic enamel mixture. Dry chalk pastel dust using a mix of orange, brown and black were brushed onto this to give a charred, stained look. The tyres were painted dark grey and dirtied up by drybrushing on Humbrol Dark Earth enamel #29. To take down the highly glossy appearance of the model’s finish, a light coat of Vallejo Matt Medium 70.540 was airbrushed on various areas. This was thinned with tap water to a consistency of skim milk. Since the surface of these aircraft had a notable sheen, the matt coat was applied just enough to have a satin finish. Tamiya’s X-19 smoke was airbrushed around the joints of the tail section, lower fuselage, and other areas of the model to weather down any bright or garish appearance. A diluted mix of earth coloured acrylic was also lightly airbrushed here and there to also help this effect.
Top left: To give the tail section some character, 1mm strips of tape were placed over the grey primer showing the framework, and then misted over lightly with several light coats of an off-white acrylic paint mix. Top right: After airbrushing the exhaust dark grey, it was drybrushed with silver enamel mixed with raw umber oil paint. Left: The aileron control lines were detailed with photo-etched turnbuckles from RB Productions. Below: An diluted coat of Vallejo Matt Medium gave the model an overall satin finish
SUMMARY
Building this model required the use of decals from various sources, and a few minor modifications based on a limited number of photos I had from books and the internet. The result was a unique subject to pair with a previous build (Barker’s Snipe) and an appetite to build yet another Wingnut Wings Fokker D.VII! •
Aft of the engine compartment, the underside of the fuselage was treated to oil stains using black and brown oil paints thinned with mineral spirits. There is a minimal amount of rigging on this type of aircraft. RB Productions turnbuckles were used also on the tail and undercarriage connections.
Tamiya X-22 Gloss Clear was used in various areas to prepare the surface for decal application and minimize silvering. Rather than risk silvering on the long datum line below the information stencil, it was added using a coloured pencil.
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MODELSPEC Wingnut Wings 1:32 Fokker D.VII (OAW) kit no. 32030 Accessories Used: Wingnut Wings 1:32 Fokker D.VII (OAW) kit no. 32030 Accessories Used: EZ Line Rigging Line Fine Charcoal RB Productions etched brass turnbuckle RB-P32023 Tools and Materials Used: At some point Barker’s left aileron was replaced with a right-handed one, flipped over and evident from the remnant of the upper wing cross.
A pitot tube was fashioned from brass tubing and secured to the wing along with impulse tubing made from 1mm lead wire.
Small paint chips were added with a fine pointed brush using silver enamel toned down with raw umber oil paint.
Tamiya Extra Fine Cement Tamiya Basic Putty Tamiya Grey Surface Primer spray can Loctite 404 instant adhesive Harder & Steenbeck Infinity CRplus Airbrush 10mm, 18mm, 40mm Tamiya Masking Tape 0.5mm brass rod Detailing Solder Micro drill set Paints and Finishing Products Used: Tamiya Acrylic paints as listed in the paint callouts. Winsor & Newton Oil Paint Series 1 554 Raw Umber, 331 Ivory Black, 074 Burnt Sienna Vallejo Acrylic paints as listed in the paint callouts Testors enamel Silver, Gold, Copper Future floor acrylic (Johnson’s Pledge) Microsol Decal setting solutions Lacquer thinner Mineral Spirit thinner
‘Clearly one of the best designs of the war, the Fokker D.VII continued to serve other air forces for years afterward.’
References: Wingnut Wings website www.wingnutwings.com The Vintage Aviator website www.thevintageaviator.co.nz Windsock Datafile Specials Fokker D.VII vols. 1, 2 & 3 Barker VC by Wayne Ralph, Doubleday Canada Ltd.
Wingnut Wings 5-colour lozenge decals for the fuselage were “liberated” from the D.VII (Alb) kit 32027. Aircraft Edition
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SNEAK PREVIEW: HOW TO BUILD TAMIYA’S 1:32 MOSQUITO FB.VI BOOK
How to Build Tamiya’s 1:32 Mosquito FB.VI Book Preview We take a peek at the contents of ADH Publishing’s latest “How To” book on building Tamiya’s magnificent 1:32 scale de Havilland Mosquito FB.VI. Tamiya’s Mosquito painted and weathered by Chris Wauchop.
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HOW TO BUILD...
O T I U Q S MO TAMIYA’S 1:32
W
hen Tamiya released their 1:32 scale Spitfire Mk.IXc in 2009, they set a new standard for plastic model kits. Each model since then has seen incremental improvements. Just when you think the series can’t get any better, Tamiya goes and proves you wrong. This time around, the kit features a photo-etched front instrument panel resulting in thinner and more realistic instrument lenses, multi-part treads on the injectionmoulded plastic tyres resulting in a deep, seamless block tread pattern, and more configuration options than we have seen in this series before. We can also marvel at the kit’s subtle surface textures, high level of detail and accuracy. Tamiya has chalked up another amazing result with this kit, and has lifted the bar just a little bit higher. The latest in ADH Publishing’s “How To” series is a book dedicated to Tamiya’s beautiful new kit. We provide an exhaustive step-by-step illustrated guide to building the model and offer plenty of inspiration with two configurations and colour schemes, plus wartime photos and a helpful walk around of a Mosquito under restoration. The model is shown in two different configurations and finishes by Brett Green and Chris Wauchop.
FB.VI
Brett Green
INCLUDING
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■ mary ■ Historical sum e photos erenc ilding the ■ Wartime ref hniques for bu p – Tips and tec ■ Step by Ste ito 8 scales ultimate Mosqu in 1:72 and 1:4 iya Mosquitos mary ■ The other Tam d accessory sum an l ca de et ■ Aftermark
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11/08/2015
12:55
Specific contents are: • Foreword • Background • Chapter 1. Mosquito Close-Up • Chapter 2. Mosquito In Scale • Chapter 3. Tamiya’s 1:32 scale Mosquito FB.VI in the box • Chapter 4. Building Tamiya’s 1:32 scale Mosquito FB.VI Step by Step • Chapter 5. Silver Streak – Brett Green • Chapter 6. Amiens Raider - Chris Wauchop • Appendix I – References, After-Market Accessories and Decals
.indd 1
p 01 Cover Mosq
The impressive lower gun pack, built straght from the box.
This book is intended to be a modeller’s companion while preparing for the build and then on the workbench during construction. ADH Publishing’s “How to Build Tamiya’s 1:32 Mosquito FB.VI” is available to order right now from ADH Books www.adhbooks.com •
Brett Green’s silver Mosquito is one of the two finishes demonstrated in the book.
‘Tamiya has chalked up another amazing result with this kit, and has lifted the bar just a little bit higher.’
Aircraft Edition
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FEATURE ARTICLE: REVELL 1:48 F/A-18E SUPER HORNET. • Kit No. 85-5850
FELIX 101
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Brett Green upgrades and converts Revell’s 1:48 scale F/A-18E Super Hornet using photo-etch and resin.
T
he USS Kitty Hawk visited Sydney in July 2007 following its participation in a joint military exercise between US and Australian forces off the east coast of Australia. This was Kitty Hawk’s last visit to Australia before she retired from active service in 2008. Rodger Kelly is a long-time volunteer who conducts guided tours on US military ships when they are visiting his home town of Perth. While the USS Kitty Hawk was still steaming along the Australian East Coast en route to Sydney, Rodger was fortunate enough to be able to hitch a ride on a COD from Sydney KingsfordSmith airport to the deck of CV 63. Following his carrier trap, Rodger had the chance to see Kitty Hawk’s Air Wing in action. Once the Kitty Hawk was in Sydney, Rodger invited myself and two friends, Chris Wauchop and Al Bowie, to accompany him on board for a few hours on 6 July, 2007. Rodger also joined the Kitty Hawk for her last cruise to Hawaii in May of 2008. During this cruise, Rodger had the unique opportunity to watch and photograph the Royal Maces’ F/A-18 Super Hornets in action and at rest. The reference photos on these pages were taken by Rodger and myself during these visits. We would like to extend our gratitude to the US Navy, the Captain and crew of USS Kitty Hawk for their generous hospitality during their Sydney visit and final cruise.
USS KITTY HAWK (CV 63)
At the time of her retirement in May 2008, Kitty Hawk was the oldest of the twelve aircraft carriers in the U.S. Naval Fleet. The ship was commissioned in April 1961. The statistics associated with the Kitty Hawk are staggering. The ship is over 320 metres long, weighs 86,000 tons, has capacity for more than 75 combat aircraft and boasts a crew, including the Carrier Air Wing, of 5,300. Kitty Hawk’s long history has been filled with many periods of crucial service, including six tours to support U.S. operations in Vietnam between 1963 and 1972, operations off Somalia in 1992, and participation in the coalition attacks against specific targets in Iraq during January 1993. Kitty Hawk was also deployed to the North Arabian Sea in October 2001 in support of Operation Enduring Freedom as a floating staging base for US Special Forces.
CARRIER AIR WING FIVE (CVW-5)
Carrier Air Wing FIVE (CVW-5) is a multi-task element of the U.S. Navy’s Seventh Fleet that operates from the northern Pacific Ocean to the Arabian Gulf. CVW-5 moved onto the Kitty Hawk in July 1998. CVW-5 is made up of eight squadrons and one detachment: • VFA 27 Royal Maces, equipped with the new F/A-18E Hornet. The F/A-18E and F Super Hornets represent the US Navy’s premiere all purpose, all-weather strike and fighter aircraft since the retirement of the F-14 Tomcat. The Super Hornet can carry up to 18,000 lbs of ordnance. It can undertake air to air and air to ground missions, as well as aerial refuelling.
Aircraft Edition
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FEATURE ARTICLE: Revell 1:48 F/A-18E Super Hornet. • Kit No. 85-5850
• VFA-102 Diamondbacks, operating the new F/A-18F Hornet as a multi-mission, all-weather strike fighter. The F/A-18F can conduct day or night, air to air and air to ground missions, launch precision guided weapons, provide fighter escort, close air support, ground defence suppression, reconnaissance, FAC and refuelling operations. • VFA 192 Golden Dragons, F/A-18C Hornet • VFA 195 Dambusters, operating the F/A-18C Hornet • VAQ 136 Gauntlets, EA-6B Prowler • VAW 115 Liberty Bells, E-2C Hawkeye • HS 14 Chargers, SH-60F Seahawk • HSL-51 Det 3 Warlords, SH-60B Seahawk • VRC 30 DET 5 Passwords, C-2A Greyhound
Super Hornets in 1:48 Scale
Modellers currently have the choice of three manufacturers when buying Super Hornet kits in 1:48 scale. Italeri, Hasegawa and Revell offer F/A-18E single seat and F/A-18F two-seaters. We can quickly discount Italeri’s offerings as underdetailed and suffering from a number of serious inaccuracies. The Hasegawa family of Super Bugs feature finely recessed panel lines, plus separate flaps and slats that may be posed either retracted or dropped. The outer wing panels may be modified to be built folded too. Revell’s Super Hornet kits also include nice, crisp recessed surface detail, but the wings are moulded with the flaps and slats in the recessed position. Although the outer wing panels are separate sub-assemblies, these are not designed to be posed folded. This will be a disappointment to modellers who like to depict their models with everything hanging out, but there are other benefits to the Revell kit such as a better detailed cockpit, and simpler parts breakdown. Although conventional modelling wisdom generally favours the Hasegawa kit, it cannot be ignored that the Revell Super Hornets can often be found for less than half the price of the more sophisticated Japanese offering. For this project I decided to use the Revell 1:48 scale F/A-18E.
Revell’s 1:48 scale F/A-18E Super Hornet In the Box
An F/A-18C is raised to the flight deck via one of the side deck elevators.
VFA-27 Royal Maces is equipped with the new F/A-18E and F/A-18F Super Hornet. Although the family resemblance is unmistakable, these Super Hornets are much bigger than the earlier F/A-18s.
Revell’s F/A-18E Super Hornet comprises 159 parts in grey plastic and five parts in clear – a relatively modest parts count for a large jet fighter aircraft. By contrast, the Hasegawa kit has around 260 parts. Moulding quality is generally very
F/A-18E number 112 on the deck. The outer wings are still folded at this stage.
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Far left: Royal Maces 405 is lined up on the catapult. Note that the Fowler flaps and ailerons are all in the dropped position. Top: Loaded with two 330 gallon fuel tanks on the wings, 405 is ready for take-off. Left: The catapult launches Royal Maces F/A-18F 106 over the Pacific Ocean. This is the two-seater variant.
A Royal Maces F/A-18F makes a perfect approach over the threshold of Kitty Hawk’s deck.
An F/A-18F fitted for refuelling. This aircraft is attached to VFA-102 Diamondbacks. Sydney’s Centrepoint Tower can be seen in the background.
The aircraft becomes a hub of activity after landing. The wings have been folded already, and deck crew converge on the aircraft after shutdown.
405 makes a safe return after its flight. The trap cable is still connected to the arrestor hook.
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Aircraft Edition
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FEATURE ARTICLE: REVELL 1:48 F/A-18E SUPER HORNET. • Kit No. 85-5850
Wolfpack’s resin parts have been tidied up, with the casting blocks and strips removed prior to assembly.
The side consoles of the cockpit tub are a bit basic.
Revell’s flaps and slats will need to be cut off the model. Here, they have been outlined in pencil to prevent any unfortunate errors!
The main side halves of the seat did not want to join at the middle of the rear, so a couple of clamps provided some friendly persuasion.
The cockpit parts, assembled, painted and ready for assembly. I used elements of Eduard’s Big Ed set, especially in the cockpit. The colour photo-etched parts are just beautiful, and add a lot of authentic detail to the front office.
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Revell’s cockpit parts are reasonably well detailed.
good, with only a little flash to clean up here and there. Parts breakdown is interesting, with the upper fuselage and inner wing sections being moulded as one large upper and one large lower half. This bypasses the problem of wing root joins. A comprehensive suite of ordnance is supplied in the kit – another advantage over Hasegawa. These include two AIM-120C missiles, two AIM-9X
Side console detail was ground off the plastic cockpit tub with a square-ended dental burr fitted to a Dremel Motor Tool.
The Eduard instrument panel parts include lit-up displays and separate bezels. I challenge any modeller to pain a panel with this level of detail and precision!
Sidewinders, two GBU-31-4B JDAM, two Mk.83 bombs, one AN/ASQ-228 FLIR pod, and a 330 Gallon tank. The boarding ladder is provided, and the ladder well detail is nicely done. The wheel wells are great too, bristling with plumbing and electrical detail all moulded in place. I particularly liked that the nose landing gear door is moulded in clear plastic. This permits the modeller to accurately depict the inspection windows, although some tricky masking will be
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The flaps and slats were cut off with a scriber, a new hobby blade and a razor saw.
The kit intakes are very short. The trunking and the inside of the intakes were painted with Tamiya’s Extra Fine White Primer. This delivers a smooth, satin finish ideal for US Navy interior parts.
The wheel wells and insides of the undercarriage doors were also sprayed with Tamiya White Primer.
The cockpit fitted well into the fuselage, but there was a large gap in front of the instrument coaming.
The wings lose some of their structural integrity once the flaps and slats are cut out, but they will retain their rigidity later on.
required here. The horizontal stabilisers may be left to pivot on their axle. This actually works quite well. The landing gear looks good, and it is also very simple to assemble. On the downside, the wings’ Leading Edge Extensions (LEX) are too short. They should extend further under the windscreen. The spine is also too tall, resulting in the canopy not looking quite right (the base is far too tall for a start). This is less noticeable when the canopy is displayed open though. The other two issues are the intake ducting, which is very short; and the oversimplified burner cans, which simply butt up against the rear of the airframe.
The upper and lower fuselage halves were a decent fit, but clamps were used while the cement set to minimise gaps and steps.
The multi-part engineering of the nose is unique, but it seems to work well. Fit is tight though, and clamps are helpful to keep all the parts properly aligned until the adhesive sets.
UPGRADING REVELL’S 1:48 SCALE F/A-18E SUPER HORNET
Although I was keen to build Revell’s kit, I also wanted to depict the wings folded and the flaps / slats dropped. Wolfpack Designs of Korea offer a resin update set providing just this configuration for the Revell kit. This set is made up from 22 parts in grey resin, and includes single-piece outer wing panels with downward deflected ailerons, mid and rear Fowler flaps, flap hinges, blanking plates, leading edge slats and alternate length rocket rails. I was pretty satisfied with the detail in the cockpit, but I owned Eduard’s “Big Ed” photoetched detail set. This provides a mass of detail for the interior, exterior, Remove Before Flight tags and canopy masks. I decided to use some of this
set for this project too. The project kicked off with the resin parts. I spent a leisurely hour cutting off the relatively minor casting blocks and cleaning the parts up in preparation for assembly. Getting the kit parts ready took a little more time and care. First, the flap and slat panels that were to be cut out of the upper and lower wing halves were marked in pencil. There are a number of panel lines in these areas and I wanted to make sure that I cut the correct ones! The next step was to lightly score the panel lines with a scriber to deepen the lines. Once these lines were well defined, I placed a new blade in my Olfa hobby knife handle and continued to score lightly. When the lines were nearly cut through, I used my razor saw to complete the cuts and remove the flaps and slats from the wings.
Aircraft Edition
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FEATURE ARTICLE: Revell 1:48 F/A-18E Super Hornet. • Kit No. 85-5850
With this surgery successfully completed, I turned my attention to the cockpit. A square-tipped dental burr was chucked into my Dremel motor tool. This was used to grind the raised detail off the side consoles of the cockpit tub. The cockpit tub, instrument panel, seat and control column were then painted. Eduard’s colour photo-etched parts were attached to the side consoles using acrylic Gator’s Grip glue. This does not “grab” like super glue, allowing adjustment after the part has been placed yet still offering a strong grip for these lightweight parts. The upper sidewalls were secured with Super Glue. Gator’s Grip was also used to attached the various panels, displays and bezels to the instrument panel. It has been pointed out to me that it is unusual to see the displays lit up without a pilot on board, but perhaps this aircraft is undergoing maintenance! The seat was used straight from the box with nothing more than a careful paint job and weathering to highlight the harness straps. The cockpit assembly fitted snugly into the upper fuselage half as it was inserted from underneath. I was concerned that the very short intake trunking – around a third of the length of the real thing – would be very obvious on the finished model so I thought I would probably make a cover for the intake. Just in case though, I still painted the inside of the intake and the trunking with Tamiya’s lovely semi-gloss White Primer. In the end, the short trunking, seam lines and ejector pin marks were not obvious at all on the completed model. With the cockpit and intakes complete, the balance of basic construction was surprisingly fast. The breakdown of the horizontally split wings/ fuselage and the vertically split nose looks strange, but makes perfect sense as the parts come together. The fit is pretty tight at the nose though, so I used tape and clamps to hold counter the tension until the cement dried. Now that the fuselage and central wing assembly was ready, I could take care of some of the smaller details. The gaps left at the wing root when the slats and flaps were removed needed filling. Wolfpack Design provides resin inserts for the rearmost gap, but you are on your own for the one at the front. The resin plug fits pretty well, and it only took me a few minutes to carve a couple of wedges of scrap plastic to fill the gaps at the front of the wing root. White Milliput was used to fill in the blank spaces. Many bulged kit canopies are moulded with a slightly raised centreline seam. This is an inevitable by-product of the production process,
Wolfpack supplies resin inserts to plug the gap in the fuselage left when the flaps have been removed.
A similar gap is also present at the front of the wing, but this is left to the modeller to fill. A wedge of plastic scrap was used to fill the bulk of the space. This was later completely filled with Milliput.
The resin leading edge slats and mid flaps have been attached to the wings with super glue.
The fit was pretty good. A brushed application of Tamiya Surfacer corrected the uneven appearance of this join.
In common with most bulged clear parts, Revell’s canopy is moulded with a raised line down the centre. This was carefully scraped down with the back of a hobby blade, and sanded with 1000 grit abrasive paper.
The canopy was then polished with successively finer grades of Micro Mesh cloths, followed by polishing cream and a bath in Future floor polish. The seam line has now been eliminated from the now sparkling canopy.
A few niggly join lines were still obvious. The worst of these was under the canopy where the nose cap assembly meets the main fuselage. This was filled with a brushed line of Tamiya Surfacer.
The windscreen to nose join also needed the Surfacer treatment. This was the first of several applications before the join line was reduced to an acceptable level.
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More filler was required at the bottom and edges of the intakes, this time Milliput White, a two-part epoxy putty. The intakes and landing gear bays were masked with tape and tissue.
The lower surfaces, including the wing pylons, plus the outer fins, were masked after they were painted with Gunze H308 Light Ghost Grey FS36375.
A slightly paler batch of Dark Ghost Grey was mixed and applied in subtle spots, streaks and mottles to add some variety to the otherwise monotonous finish.
The gun panel and IFF device in front of the windscreen were both masked and sprayed with Tamiya XF-63 German Grey.
Tamiya masking tape was used to form the crisp demarcation between the upper and lower surfaces at the nose.
US Navy aircraft are exposed to harsh elements and also suffer from the constant tramping of deck crews. A mix of Tamiya XF-64 Red Brown and XF-1 Flat Black was used to depict this heavy wear.
The model then receives a coat of Gunze H307 Dark Ghost Grey, FS 36320, on the upper surfaces.
The stains and scuff marks were added according to reference photos of real Hornets. Once the weathering was completed, the model received three thin coats of Future floor polish to seal the paint job.
With its overall grey finish, any variety is welcome!
Markings were sourced from Afterburner Decals “Felix Rules F/A-18E VFA-31”. They went on beautifully over the highgloss Future coat.
but it is not something that we see on a real aircraft. I carefully scraped down with the back of a hobby blade, and sanded with 1000 grit abrasive paper. The canopy was then polished with successively finer grades of Micro Mesh cloths, followed by polishing cream and a bath in Future floor polish. The seam line has now been eliminated from the now sparkling canopy.
PAINTING AND MARKINGS
US Navy fighters are finished in a simple scheme of Dark Gull Grey over Light Gull Grey. Once the intakes, the cockpit opening and the wheel wells had been blocked off with masking tape and tissue paper, the lower surfaces, outer fins and the fuel
tanks were sprayed Gunze-Sangyo H308 Light Gull Grey using my Testor Aztek airbrush. The lower surfaces were then masked off and the top of the model painted Gunze H307, Dark Gull Grey. Unlike their Air Force counterparts, US Navy aircraft are filthy and patchy in service. This is especially true of fighters and attack aircraft on carriers. The first step in achieving this level of in-service grime was to mix up a slightly paler batch of Dark Gull Grey, applying this fresh paint in random spots, streaks and mottles to represent recent repairs to the camouflage. Next, a mix of Tamiya XF-64 Red Brown and XF-1 Flat Black was used to apply heavy wear. Stains and scuff marks were added according to reference photos of real Hornets.
Once the weathering was completed, the model received three thin coats of Future floor polish to seal the paint job. The gun panel and IFF device in front of the windscreen were both masked and sprayed with Tamiya XF-63 German Grey. My original plan was to finish this model in the markings of one of the Royal Maces F/A-18Es that feature in the Reference section of this article, but Afterburner Decals kindly sent me a pre-release version of their VFA-31 Tomcatters sheet. I had long wanted to build a Tomcatters F-14, but this would also be a good excuse to use some Felix the Cat decals on the fin of a US Navy aircraft! The decals, printed by Cartograf of Italy, were a pure joy to use. They went down perfectly over the glossy Future finish. My only mild complaint is that the sheet is so full of markings that it is a bit tricky to navigate around with a knife or a pair
Aircraft Edition
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FEATURE ARTICLE: REVELL 1:48 F/A-18E SUPER HORNET. • Kit No. 85-5850
Afterburner includes the slime lights and a full set of stencils in addition to the unique markings.
Two thin coats of Gunze Flat Clear ties in the decals with the paint job, and subdues the weathering somewhat.
The grimy weathering breaks up the single-colour upper surface, and conforms to reference photos.
Revell’s undercarriage parts are simple to assemble yet nicely detailed.
The fit of the windscreen is still not perfect, but the canopy is not actually glued in place here.
The outer edges of all the gear doors were brush painted red with Vallejo acrylics prior to the outside being painted grey.
of scissors cutting out the individual decals. Full stencil markings are provided too. There are quite a few of these. I spent a couple of sessions of a couple of hours each applying all of the decals. Two thin coats of Gunze Flat Clear sealed the paint and decals. The landing gear is mercifully simple. The landing gear legs and ordnance were painted and weathered prior to final assembly. I used super glue to secure the main gear legs so that I could instantly freeze the parts into the correct stance using Zap accelerator.
CONCLUSION
Revell’s 1/48 scale F/A-18E Super Hornet is not without its flaws, but none are what I would consider to be fatal. This is a nice kit straight from the box, but the addition of Wolfpack’s wing fold set and Eduard’s colour photo-etch really lift it into a different league. If you want to experiment with multimedia upgrades, this might be a nice place to start. •
Revell supplies one of the 330 gallon tanks, but I borrowed two more from a Hasegawa F/A-18F. Afterburner includes enough markings for up to four Tomcatter tanks.
Sidewinders, Sparrows and JDAMs are painted, decaled and weathered in preparation for final assembly.
The various sub-assemblies have all been brought together for the completed model.
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The flaps and outer wing panels were painted and weathered separately. This made it easier to access the fuselage, and also reduced the risk of damaging the parts due to excessive handling if they were attached earlier.
Revell’s starboard side front undercarriage door is moulded in clear, accurately depicting the inspection windows. Some tricky masking is required here.
The exhaust cans were painted using Testor’s ‘Jet Exhaust’, followed by weathering with the ubiquitous Black / Red Brown mix and buffing back with Micromesh polishing cloths.
The F/A-18E and F bristle with ordnance. Here we can see the 330 Gal. tank, JDAM bomb and Sparrow missile on their pylons.
‘Unlike their Air Force counterparts, US Navy aircraft are filthy and patchy in service. This is especially true of fighters and attack aircraft on carriers.’
The wing folds were a trouble-free fit. They were secured with super glue. Note the position of the narrow rectangular wing fold cover.
MINI MODELSPEC Simple parts breakdown; decent detail; nice recessed surface textures. Some inaccurate shapes. RATING: 7.5 out of 10 Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For details visit www.revell.de/en, @ RevellGermany or facebook.com/Revell
Revell’s 1:48 scale F/A-18E is a nice kit straight from the box, but the addition of Wolfpack’s wing fold set and Eduard’s colour photo-etch really lifts it into a different league.
Aircraft Edition
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TECH GUIDE: QUICKER FIGURE PAINTING
QUICKER FIGURES Five Easy Steps for Painting Small Scale Figures for Dioramas by Rafe Morrissey
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F
igures are a great way to add a sense of scale and context to a model. Unfortunately, the techniques involved in building and painting figures at a high level are not really analogous to those needed for building inanimate objects like tanks and airplanes. Most modellers that I know do what I did for many years - chuck the figures in the spares bin thinking, “Maybe some day.” Several years ago, I made an effort to learn how to paint figures and while not winning any awards, developed a technique that suited me. The only problem was the time involved. As a rule of thumb, it was taking a full evening to complete a 1:72 scale figure, two evenings for 1:48 scale, and for 1:32 and 1:35 figures as many as three nights, just for one figure. The time involved kept me from working on a number of diorama ideas I’d dreamed about. For a B-17 crew or German 88mm Flak gun, it might take as many as three weeks just for the figures! I decided there had to be a better way, and I think there is. After combing a number of books, I have distilled a method that has cut the time involved in doing figures in half, plus it can be used in a mass production system if the uniforms are similar to make it go even faster. What was taking me three nights can now be done in a couple of hours. A couple points up front: I do not intend to offend those modellers dedicated to the art of figure painting, and I do believe it is an art. I freely admit that this method from a certain perspective is
“cheating.” If you intend to enter a figure painting competition, I do not advise you to follow this method. If on the other hand, you would like to turn out a respectable looking figure to accompany a plane or tank and not have to take a long time, read on. Second, I do not claim to invent these techniques. I gleaned them from a number of good books but none seemed to focus as specifically on the figure painting as I think would be helpful. My hope is to pull together the basics into 5 easy steps in one article so that you can have a good one-stop reference.
BACK TO BASICS
The focus of this article is on painting, so I am not going to talk much about construction other than to say that, just like in any type of modelling, it is important to adhere to good fundamental construction techniques. Scrape away all seam lines and ensure proper fit. A couple of specific tips are worth mentioning though. Filling seams on figures can be tricky. The complex detail is often hard to sand around without damaging it. Mr. Surfacer 500 is a great solution. You can apply it to the seams where arms join the torso. Slightly overfill since it will shrink. Once it has dried, you can remove it with a Q-tip soaked in Mr. Color Thinner. Slowly rub across the seam and the filler will gradually come away. In this manner you can work the filler down until it is level with
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No technique can make up for poor construction. Be sure to eliminate all mould parting lines and fill any seams between body parts. Mr. Surfacer 500 is a great filler because it can be removed without sanding with Mr. Color Thinner on a damp Q-tip. For large scale figures, try using a pin to make tiny holes for the irises in the eyes.
Here is an assortment of finishing products that work well for me. I try to stick with Vallejo paints for the base colours and Testors enamels for dry brushing
Dry brush each uniform colour with an appropriate highlight colour. Use enamels or add retarder to acrylics to extend the working time.
Prime the figure with a good quality primer from a spray can. Fix any defects at this stage and re-prime, if necessary.
Apply the flesh tones and basic colours for the uniform. Highlight the areas of the face and hands exposed to light with a paler flesh tone. Do not paint any straps or details at this stage. If your paint has the slightest sheen, give the figure a good coat of Testors Dullcote.
the surface and no sanding is required. Another good filler option is Perfect Plastic Putty from Deluxe Materials. This goes on like spackle and can be removed with a Q-tip moistened with water. I use it for sink marks. Again, it can be removed without sanding. It also sticks like mad when cured and can be dry sanded and polished. I use it for areas that are easy to get to with sandpaper. You must sand it with dry sandpaper, though. Wet sanding will reactivate the putty and just wash it away. Finally, for 1:35 and 1:32 scale figures, use a sharp pin or needle to poke holes where the irises in the eyes should be. Wash will settle into them and create the illusion of a carefully painted eye.
figure and make sure all the seams are completely filled and mould parting lines eliminated. This is the best time to fix any lingering problems.
STEP 1: PRIME
The first task is to drill a hole in the bottom of the foot so you can insert a toothpick to hold the figure. Next, apply a good primer. I like Mr. Surfacer 500 in the spray can but any aerosol primer will do. I use spray cans here for speed. No mixing in thinners and cleaning up an airbrush. Inspect the
STEP 2: BASE COAT
Next apply the base colours to the figure. For flesh areas, I use Vallejo Basic Skin Tone with a bit of Yellow Tan mixed in, but any base flesh colour will do. Then I add white to the mix and hit the areas of the face and hands most exposed to light. The eyebrows, tops of cheeks, chin, bridge of the nose, knuckles and top edges of hands and fingers all get the lighter shade. The differences should be fairly pronounced. Don’t worry about blending. The differences in tone will be dealt with in a later step. Also paint the major garments like pants, shirts and jackets and shoes or boots. Do not paint any details at this stage. Use a somewhat darker colour than what the base colour should be. If you can’t find the right shade on the paint rack, you can always mix in a bit of dark brown. I recommend using Vallejo paints here
Apply a thin wash of Raw Umber oil paint thinned with odourless mineral spirits like Turpenoid in the blue can. Once the wash is dry you can use a damp brush with thinner to blend out any areas where too much wash settled or add a bit thicker wash for areas that need deeper shadows, but it will look pretty good after the first application.
Aircraft Edition
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TECH GUIDE: QUICKER FIGURE PAINTING
CONCLUSION
because they dry dead flat. If you use Acryl or Polly Scale, you will want to spray the figure with Testors Dullcote to ensure the next step works well.
STEP 3: DRY-BRUSH
Dry-brushing figures is considered blasphemy by hard-core figure painters but it is the only way to shorten the process. I don’t claim the figures will look as good as a professionally painted figure with all the tones and blending, but for me, it looks good enough. One trick is to dry brush down into the figure the way the light would hit the detail and not simply scrub across it. Your brush strokes should mimic the path of the light. This will ensure that the lighter tones are deposited in the right places. This is also why we didn’t paint any details in the previous step. It gives you more room to dry brush. You want to select a complementary light tone for each base colour. For tan pants and flight suits, Radome Tan is a good choice. For Olive Drab uniforms, Afrika Dunkelgrau works well. Military Brown is a good highlight for leather flight jackets. Be sure to choose something that will provide a good amount of contrast. I recommend Testors enamel paints because dry brushing is easier with enamels since they dry slower than acrylics. If you must use acrylics, add some retarder to give yourself a bit more working time.
The wash should not be too thick. You should be able to read print through it if you run it over a business card.
Give this process a try with your next figure. You will be amazed at how quickly it goes and how good the figures can look with minimal effort. The five steps described above can be done in 45 minutes to a couple hours maximum depending on the scale of the figures. If you are doing figures that are dressed similarly, set up an assembly line and do each step on all the figures in succession. The extra time is negligible in most cases and you can churn out quite a few in an evening. You might just find yourself headed back to your spares box to paint up all those figures you’ve been setting aside all these years! •
MINI MODELSPEC Key Products Used: Mr. Surfacer 500 in bottle and spray can Mr. Color Thinner Perfect Plastic Putty Testors Dullcote Various Vallejo and Testors Colors
STEP 4: DETAIL AND WASH
Next, go in and paint any required details like insignia, fleece trim and belts and harnesses. You can carefully dry brush these with a small brush. Avoid using either pure white or black on your figures. I mix in a bit of Tan Yellow in white and a tad of white in black for scale effect. When all the detail painting is complete, mix up a wash of Raw Umber oil paint and odourless mineral spirits such as Turpenoid in the blue can. The wash should be fairly thin. If you run the wash down a piece of paper with print on it, the print should be visible through the wash. Apply the wash to the entire figure, details and flesh areas alike. Raw Umber has a remarkable unifying effect and helps blend all the different tones and details.
Coat the figure with Testors Dullcote. If there are any areas that need to be shiny like lenses on glasses or goggles, use a bit of Future to make them pop.
STEP 5: FLAT COAT AND ADMIRE
Once the wash has completely dried, you can work out any areas where too much wash settled with a brush dampened with the odourless mineral spirits. You can also add a bit more wash mixed a bit darker to accentuate any areas where there should be deep shadows, but the figure will usually look pretty good after the first application. Once the washes are completely dry, spray the figure with Testors Dullcote. As a final step you can add some Future to any areas that should be glossy like sun glasses or goggles.
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SHOW REPORT: QUEENSLAND MODEL AND HOBBY EXPO 2015
2015
QUEENSLAND MODEL AND HOBBY EXPO The Editor heads to sunny Brisbane to visit the 2015 Queensland Model and Hobby Expo at its new venue.
T
he 20th Anniversary Queensland Model and Hobby Expo was held at a new venue this year - Just Sports n’ Fitness, Redbank - on the weekend of 20 and 21 August 2015. The show generated a great deal of interest with wide press coverage and an opening ceremony presided over by Ipswich Mayor Paul Pisasale. The new venue delivered record-breaking crowds, with long queues waiting for the doors to open on the Saturday morning. 1,800 visitors attended on Saturday alone, with many curious families as well as local modellers browsing the aisles. A total of
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3,500 visitors attended over the weekend. President of the organising committee, Fred Liedel, was clearly delighted and confirmed that the show will be held at the Redbank venue again in 2016. QMHE is a co-operative annual venture between local Queensland model clubs, but entries are open to members and the public alike. This year, the competition tables boasted more than 400 quality entries, but numbers were boosted by many more models on club display tables. In addition to the aircraft models present, there were
plenty of cars, trucks, military vehicles, figures and even a working small-scale railroad. Plenty of traders were on hand, amongst them OzMods, Modelnerds, Firestorm Models, Fold iT Models, Creative Models Australia, Ronnel’s Hobbies and many more. The canteen, serving hoot food, was doing a roaring trade too. If you’re in Australia anywhere near sunny Queensland in August next year, drop by – it’s well worthwhile! •
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HE 2015!
Welcome to QM
WWI was a major theme of this year’s show.
1:1 scale control sticks – Anthony Papadis’ Verlinden F-16 stick on the left; and Eric Galliers’ Sabre stick by Ken Kahl on the right.
The venue was filled with creative club and special interest group displays. Committee President Fred Liedel was delighted with the crowd and the large number of quality entries.
Academy’s 1:72 scale B-17G Flying Fortress by Eric Leah.
Hasegawa’s 1:72 B-17F Flying Fortress by Andrew Prentice.
Dargon’s 1:144 scale Space Shuttle and Boeing 747 by David De Ryck.
Hasegawa’s 1:48 Ki-45 by Greg Newland.
A uniquely presented Mustang – IMCTH’s 1:32 scale kit by David Dalton.
Tamiya’s 1:48 scale RF-84G Thunderjet by Michael Drover.
Czech Model 1:32 scale F-80 Shooting Star by Eric Galliers.
Aircraft Edition
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SHOW REPORT: QUEENSLAND MODEL AND HOBBY EXPO 2015
Peter Vonhof’s 1:32 scale Tamiya Spitfire Mk.VIII.
IPMS Queensland fielded an impressive display.
Airfix 1:72 scale Short Stirling in enemy hands, by Richard Stracey.
HK Models’ 1:32 Meteor with Fisher Model and Pattern’s Mk.8 conversion by David De Ryck.
OzMods had their range of kits and accessories for sale.
Decisions, decisions!
A busy 1:48 scale B-17G diorama.
RAAF Amberley Scale Modelling Club.
Fine Molds’ small but perfectly formed 1:72 scale A6M2A Zero by Paul Gloster.
Zoukei-Moura’s 1:32 scale Horten Ho 229 by Kerry Cox.
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Subtly weathered 1:32 scale Messerschmitt Bf 109 E-1 by Dan Moore.
Eric Galliers’ beautifully finished Aerotech de Havilland Comet in 1:32 scale.
Brent Simpson’s Gold winning 1:32 scale Wingnut Wings’ Felixstowe F2A.
This 1:48 scale Junkers Ju 88 on the IPMS Queensland table featured striking markings.
Revell/Trumpeter 1:32 scale Mistel 1 combination by Wayne Huston.
David De Ryck’s 1:32 scale Meteor U.15 conversion, based on HK Models’ kit.
1:32 scale Sopwith Schneider scratch built by David Charles.
OzMods had some intriguing subjects on their tables. We can only hope!
Wayne Nelson’s 1:48 scale HAS 3 Wessex in 1:48 scale.
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Aircraft Edition
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Issue No (if applicable) ........................................................................... Signature................................................Date ..................... Please mail this form to; ADH Publishing, Doolittle Mill, Doolittle Lane, Totternhoe, Bedfordshire, LU6 1QX, United Kingdom Tel; +44(0)1525 222573 Fax; +44(0)1525 222574 Online; www.militaryillustratedmodeller.com (Photocopies of this form are acceptable)
24/09/2015 12:58
modeller Next Issues military illustrated
ISSUE No.055 November 2015
Aircraft Edition - Brett Green AFV Edition - Marcus Nicholls Publisher; Alan Harman Graphic Design; Alex Hall, Colin Trundle Advertising Manager; Sean Leslie Office Manager; Paula Gray Administration Manager; Hannah McLaurie ADH Web Team MIM Website; Editors;
Military Illustrated Modeller Issue 56 - AFV Edition on sale 19 November, 2015
Printed by; Symbian Print Intelligence, Hertfordshire, UK
IMPERIAL MEASURES
Fine Molds’ 1:35 IJA Ho-Ni III WW2 Japanese SPG
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[email protected] Military Illustrated Modeller is published on the third Thursday of each month by; ADH Publishing, Doolittle Mill, Doolittle Lane, Totternhoe, Bedfordshire, LU6 1QX UK www.militaryillustratedmodeller.com Tel; +44 (0)1525 222573 Fax; +44 (0)1525 222574 Editorial enquiries; Aircraft email;
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ON THE LOOK-OUT SHELF QUEEN: T-70
Miniart’s 1:35 Soviet T-70 in a winter scheme
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Marijn van Gils presents a masterclass on the scratchbuilding of this WW1 vignette depicting two ‘Force Publique de Congo’ soldiers
Military Illustrated Modeller Issue 57 - Aircraft Edition on sale 17 December 2015
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STEALTH EVOLUTION
James Hatch builds ZoukeiMura’s 1:32 scale Ho 229.
DELTA DOWN UNDER
The Editor builds Kinetic’s new 1:48 scale Mirage IIIE as an RAAF IIIO, and offers some handy walk around reference.
KOMET RISING
RODEN’S TROJAN © ADH Publishing 2015
Dave Aungst builds Roden’s 1:48 scale T-28D Trojan.
Tony Bell presents Meng’s 1:32 scale Messerschmitt Me 163 Komet.
...AND MORE! Aircraft Edition
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Tailpiece
YAKKITY YAK
Eduard 1:48 Yak-1b Limited Edition. Kit No. 1194 Eduard has reissued their enhanced 1:48 scale Yak-1b, featuring the original Accurate Miniatures plastic parts.
W
hen they were released in the 1990s, Accurate Miniatures’ 1:48 scale aircraft kits set new standards in quality and detail that are rarely matched even today. Their 1998 family of Yak-1 models was one of several bold subject choices, tackling important aircraft that had not been adequately depicted in plastic. In common with their other offerings of the time, Accurate Miniatures’ Yak-1s boasted excellent attention detail, crisp mouldings, outstanding surface features and good fit.
WHAT MORE COULD ANYONE ASK FOR IN A YAK-1?
How about colour photo-etch parts, canopy and wheel masks, plus five colourful new marking options? The latest Eduard Limited Edition kit contains the plastic from Accurate Miniatures’ 1:48 scale Yak-1b, comprising 90 parts in grey coloured plastic and 14 parts in clear; combined with a large new colour photo-etched fret; masking sheet; and three decal sheets with Markings are supplied for seven markings for six colourful schemes. aircraft. Eduard has actually released this package twice before, the first time in 2006, but both of these offerings sold out quickly. Also, this time a wider selection of markings is included. The styrene sprues contain the familiar plastic parts from Accurate Miniatures’ 1998 Yak-1b. Accurate Miniatures’ plastic parts still look impessive today in terms of quality of injection moulded parts, detail and markings. Eduard’s packaging is very modeller-friendly. Sprues are packed, singly or in pairs, in resealable bags with each pair of sprues interlocked to prevent scuffing. Surface detail is excellent. Panel lines are consistent and finely engraved. Subtly recessed rivets are also present in limited (but appropriate) locations. Moulding quality has not suffered in the last 17 years (could it really be that long??), with beautifully crisp mouldings and only one minor sink mark on
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top of one aileron, a shallow sink line on the bottom of the other, and a few ejector pin circles on the inside of the undercarriage doors. The rudder and elevators are fixed in the neutral position, but ailerons are supplied separately. I really like the fabric texture of the control surfaces. The main undercarriage offers the choice of weighted (bulged and flattened) or unweighted tyres. Although not used in any of the marking options for this boxing, the full sprue containing skis is also included in this kit. Ordnance options include rockets and drop tanks. The kit is not overly complex, and includes plenty of perfectly aligned locating pins. Clear parts are thin and free from distortion. The colour photo-etched fret adds intricate detail to the excellent plastic parts. This fret provides the harness, instrument panel and side consoles in full colour, plus supplementary metal detail parts for the cockpit and aircraft exterior. The instrument panel should look great when assembled, incorporating all the tiny details of the dials and the characteristic coloured surrounds of the engine gauges. Die-cut self-adhesive masks round out the package. Instructions are supplied in an A-5 size 12 page loose leaf booklet. This is accompanied by six pages of full-colour marking guides, each with a four-view illustration. Markings are provided for seven colourful aircraft. Four are finished in the early-war VVS scheme of Green and Black over Light Blue, with another in whitewashed upper surfaces and two examples in two-tone grey. Decals are printed by Cartograf. Register is perfect and colours look good.
The full-span lower wing with crisp recessed surface detail.
The accurately featureless upper wing. The clear sprues.
CONCLUSION
Accurate Miniatures’ 1:48 scale Yak-1b is still a great kit. The addition of Eduard’s colour photoetch parts, masks and new decals take it to an even higher level. Keep in mind, however, that this is a limited edition offering. Both earlier issues sold out quickly, so get in now while you can. Also, build reports indicate that fit around the fuselage deck is tricky, so take plenty of time testfitting before committing to glue. Highly Recommended. Thanks to Eduard for the sample www.eduard.com •
Eduard’s photo-etc
hed parts.
Military Illustrated Modeller - November 2015
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NEW in the ‘HOW TO BUILD...’ series NOW AVAILABLE Order Now
NEW How to Build the Tamiya 1:32 Mosquito FB.VI The definitive guide to building the much anticipated Tamiya 1:32 Mosquito FB.VI by Brett Green. This book features a comprehensive build plus: ■ Mosquito restoration close-up ■ Historical summary ■ Wartime reference photos ■ Step by Step – Tips and techniques for building the ultimate Mosquito ■ The other Tamiya Mosquitos in 1:72 and 1:48 scales ■ Aftermarket decal and accessory summary
NOW SHIPPING Only
£13.95 plus p&p
ALSO AVAILABLE Visit adhbooks.com for details
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