modeller military illustrated
£6.50 - Apr’16 (issue 060)
WHEN KV MEETS JS
AFV edition
Kitbashing a KV and JS to create the KV-85
Nuremberg Toy Fair • Pegasus Bridge • UH-1 Huey and more...
www.militaryillustratedmodeller.com
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Contents
modeller military illustrated
ISSUE No.060 April 2016
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NEWS
Military model product news
‘TEN HUT!
Sixteen new military kits on parade
NUREMBERG TOY FAIR 2016
The Editor visits Nuremberg for the annual toy fair
16 ORDNANCE DEPOT
New and recent accessory sets and modelling materials
18 THE PULL OF A RUSSIAN ARMY HORSE Trumpeter’s 1:35 Stalinets S-65 tractor, painted with Vallejo paints
24 AN UPLIFTING EXPERIENCE AFV Club’s extraordinary 1:35 Büssing-NAG crane truck, previewed
18
26 MADE IN CHINA
Hobbyboss’s 1:35 Chinese PLA ZTZ99 MBT
30 TAMIYA 1:35 FRENCH AMX-13 LIGHT TANK
Kit preview of Tamiya’s latest 1:35 armour kit
32 COVER STORY: WHEN KV MEETS JS
32
Trumpeter’s KV-1 and Zvezda’s JS-2 combine to create a KV-85
40 BRIDGE ON THE CAEN CANAL
A photo-study of the famous ‘Pegasus Bridge’, Normandy,
46 A FINE FELINE
Revell’s all new kit of the Leopard 1 MBT, previewed
48 HIDING A HETZER
How to mask and paint two of the Hetzer tank destroyer’s complex camouflage schemes
54 YOU’D RATHER CRY, I’D RATHER FLY...
Yes, it flies, but it does carry troops, gets dusty and belongs to the army
60 MORRIS DANCING, FOR TWO Two new Morris C8 Quad kits from Mirror Models
62 BOOK REVIEWS
26
Military model-related book reviews
66 SIGN OFF
We lose a much loved and respected member of the scale modelling industry
AFV Edition
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News NEW FROM DRAGON
1:35 88MM FLAK 36 AUF PZ.KPFW.IV AUSF.H (SMART KIT) Dragon have made an interesting vehicle out two of their existing models here, and it makes quite an attractive subject with plenty of potential for mixed-up paint schemes www.hobbyco.net
NEWS JUST IN... REVELL
• 1:72 German Afrikakorps WWII • 1:72 British 8th Army WWII • 1:35 German Truck • 1:72 T34-85 revell.de/en
TIGER MODEL
• 1:35 IDF Nagmachon • 1:35 1:35 Panhard VBL • 1:35 AMX-30 BRENNUS • 1:35 AMX-10 SEPAR tiger-model.com
NEW FROM TAMIYA 1:35 M109A3G
Tamiya's newest collaboration with Italeri is the Bundeswehr version of the US M109. The kit features some new parts such as barrel, cupola, turret details and rear-view mirrors www.hobbyco.net
NEW FROM REVELL
1:72 SS-25 TOPOL ICBM LAUNCHER
Revell have released Zvezda's impressive Topol kit and it's a pretty large kit even in 1:72. More news soon. www.revell.de/en
MINIART, UKRAINE T-44 SOVIET MEDIUM TANK
This is an all-new kit from MiniArt and it's a spectacular production from the tracks up. It features a very extensive interior that includes the V12 diesel engine, torsion bar suspension, fighting compartment floor, firewall, ammunition racks and more, although no driver's area is provided. In the turret, we have a lovingly detailed miniature of the ZIS-S-53 85mm main gun which seems pretty complete; the gunsight and gunner's seat and elevation gear are all present, plus the traverse gearbox, radio set, ammo racks and lots more. Amazing levels of complexity and a fascinating subject too www.creativemodels.co.uk
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NEW FROM FRIULMODEL 1:35 GRANT/LEE TRACKS
Just arrived at TMMI is a new set of Type WE210 'Double I' track for the Grant/Lee tank, ideal for Tamiya's recently re-issued kit. www.creativemodels.co.uk
THIS MONTH IN TAMIYA MODEL MAGAZINE… TAMIYA 1:48 7-TON ARMOURED CAR This month’s edition of Tamiya Model Magazine (April, No.246) features a full-build review of Tamiya’s newest 1:48 armoured car.
Order now at; www.tamiyamodelmagazine.com
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NEW in the ‘HOW TO BUILD...’ series NEW How to Build The Steel Wheeled Tiger I A New and revised edition of the ultimate guide to building the Tiger I Steel Wheeled version by Angus Creighton. The new revised edition includes: ■ Early-batch Sturmtiger, using Tamiya’s 1:35 kit with factory zimmerit, ModelKasten battle-tracks ■ Late-batch Sturmtiger, using Tamiya’s 1:35 kit, Dragon late pattern road wheels, extra frontal armour, no zimmerit, ModelKasten battle-tracks ■ Dragon’s 1:35 Tiger I (SPzAbt 510 1944-45), ModelKasten transport tracks ■ and more...
NOW SHIPPING VER O C E L SAMP
Only
COMING SOON
HOW TO BUILD... The Rubber Wheeled Tiger I by Angus Creighton
.95 £13 s p&p plu
ALSO AVAILABLE Visit adhbooks.com for details PLACE YOUR ORDER NOW ON TEL: 01525 222573 FAX: 01525 222574
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The Steel Wheeled Tiger I book HOW TO BUILD... STEEL TIGER Name ..................................................................................................................... Address................................................................................................................ ...................................................................................................................................
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Issue No (if applicable) ........................................................................... Date ............................................................................................... Please mail this form to; ADH Publishing, Doolittle Mill, Doolittle Lane, Totternhoe, Bedfordshire, LU6 1QX, United Kingdom Tel; +44(0)1525 222573 Fax; +44(0)1525 222574 Online; www.adhbooks.com (Photocopies of this form are acceptable)
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TEN HUT! ZVEZDA, RUSSIA
DRAGON, HONG KONG
1:35 PZ.KPFW.VI TIGER II AUSF.B PORSCHE TURRET
1:35 SD.KFZ.171 PANTHER G EARLY PRODUCTION PZ.RGT.26 ITALIAN FRONT
ITEM NO.3616 www.hobbyco.net
This kit is based on Dragon’s 2004 King Tiger release, but with quite a few modifications to the some areas. Very nice detail, particularly the weld seams and road wheels
ITEM NO; 6267 www.hobbyco.net
The latest Panther variant from Dragon is the ‘G’ and it’s in Dragon’s ‘Smart Kit’ range which means fewer photo-etched parts and one-piece tracks. Beautiful detail everywhere but you might need Friulmodel tracks
TIGER MODEL, HONG KONG/CHINA
TIGER MODEL, HONG KONG/CHINA
1:35 AMX-30 B2 BRENNUS MAIN BATTLE TANK
1:35 AMX-10RCR SEPAR TANK DESTROYER
Yet another AMX-30 kit, this time from newcomers Tiger Model; This reactivearmour equipped variant looks very striking and the kit is very interesting. The gun barrel is in aluminium but the dust cover is moulded onto to it, very clever indeed
Tiger Model clearly like their French vehicles; this is the second variant of the AMX-10 they have issued. This one has extended side armour which gives the sixwheeler a distinctive look. Fabulous subject and a not overly complex kit
ITEM NO; 4604 www.tiger-model.com
ITEM NO; 4607 www.tiger-model.com
ITALERI, ITALY
ITALERI, ITALY
1:35 M4A3E8 SHERMAN FURY
1:35 KFZ.15 FÜNKWAGEN
Italeri’s take on the ‘Easy Eight’ Sherman is back in ‘Fury’ guise, which makes sense. The model is good replica of this late-war version and comes with T66 and T84E track types. It even comes with the ‘logs’ for the hull sides
An appealing subject choice from Italeri that would be the ideal centre point for a north African desert diorama; just add a couple of DAK figures. Detail is of a high standard but the tyres are in vinyl
ITEM NO.6529 www.hobbyco.net
ITEM NO.6526 www.hobbyco.net
DRAGON, HONG KONG
DRAGON, HONG KONG
1:72 M103A1 HEAVY TANK
1:72 M4A3(76)W
This is a remarkably well detail kit of the vast M103A1 Heavy Tank but it is engineered to make it easy and quick to construct. The wheels and tracks are moulded together, but split in halves, lengthways
A Sherman in 1:72 is a tiny thing but this kit’s diminutive size doesn’t mean it isn’t detailed. The tracks are moulded in flexible ‘Dragon Styrene’ and look excellent and the upper hull is well rendered
ITEM NO.6823 www.hobbyco.net
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Some of the latest military kits to drop onto the Military Illustrated Modeller reviews desk
ITEM NO.7271 www.hobbyco.net
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ZVEZDA, RUSSIA
TIGER MODEL, HONG KONG/CHINA
1:100 GERMAN HEAVY TANK TIGER I
1:35 PANHARD VBL 12.7MM MACHINE GUN
ITEM NO.6256 www.hobbyco.net
Judge me by my size, do you? Yoda was right, small things can be mighty and this tiny Tiger is rather lovely. It’s designed for wargaming but it works well as a standalone scale model too, with some well thought-out design
ITEM NO;4619 www.tiger-model.com
Another modern French AFV from Tiger and this time’s it’s the much desired (by modellers) Panhard VBL. It’s a small machine but the kit is packed with detail including a well-appointed cabin interior.
HONG MODEL, CHINA
BRONCO, HONG KONG
1:35 SOVIET ZSU-2304M/MZ SHILKA
1:35 PZ.KPFW.III AUSF.A (SD.KFZ.141)
Hong Model is a new company and their Soviet ZSU-2304M/ MZ Shilka SPAAG looks mightily impressive. The model comes with PE mesh screens for the engine deck, clear vision blocks plus decals for Iraqi, USSR, East German and Russian examples
Bronco Models’ Panzer III ausf. A is a refined production with some nice little touches; the reverse pattern of the track-guards’ non-slip texture on their undersides being just one example. Fantastic detail, workable tracks and an interesting subject choice
ITEM NO; H-5001 www.hongmodel.com
ITEM NO; GB7004 www.hannants.co.uk
BRONCO, HONG KONG
TAMIYA, JAPAN
1:35 PANZERKAMPFWAGEN II (F1) SD.KFZ.122 W/UE TRAILER
1:35 M107 US SELFPROPELLED GUN (VIETNAM WAR)
ITEM NO.CB35090 www.hannants.co.uk
ITEM NO; 37021 www.hobbyco.net
Bronco have included their excellent Renault UE trailer with this release of the Pz.II (F1) flamethrower tank, making it quite a complex (in a good way) production. A wonderfully involving, detailed tank kit (glue-together link tracks) with an equally well done trailer (with link-length tracks)
A wonderful, oldish kit from Italeri that’s a delight to see back. This time it’s in a Tamiya box with the classic 1975 four-figure Vietnam War AFV crew set taken from the M577, plus the more recent US vehicle equipment set. Great subject, classic Italeri detail, appealing additions from Tamiya
TIGER MODEL, HONG KONG/CHINA
BRONCO MODELS, CHINA
1:35 ISRAEL DEFENSE FORCES NAGMACHON DOGHOUSE LATE APC
1:35 BRITISH CRUISER TANK A34 COMET
ITEM NO; 4616 www.tiger-model.com
The IDF Nagmachon is based on a heavily modified Centurion hull and its main feature is the massive ‘dog house’ observation turret. The lynchpin of a model with anti-RPG bar armour is how fine the bars are, and Tiger have done a pretty good job of it
ITEM NO; 35010SP www.hannants.co.uk
Bronco’s 2005 A34 Comet originally came with one-piece, flexible tracks and earlypattern idlers in cast resin but in this revised edition, we have a bag of individual-link tracks – a major improvement – and new early idlers in polystyrene
AFV Edition
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SHOW REPORT: NUREMBERG TOY FAIR 2016
NUREMBERG TOY FAIR 2016 Marcus Nicholls takes trip to Nuremberg in Bavaria, Germany for the annual toy fair
Tamiya A
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hen I first started going to the huge, annual toy fair in the early 1990s, the internet was barely available to consumers, so the first time I would see the new kits would be when I walked onto the model companies' stands. That has changed completely now, with the new items appearing online – in one form or another – days and even weeks before the show opens. However, not everything makes it to the 'web beforehand, and it is these smaller but equally fascinating releases I seek out. This year I have dedicated six pages to the our show report, as there are a lot of new releases to cover. Tamiya showed off the new 1:35 AMX-13 French tank, 1:35 SU-76M Soviet anti-tank vehicle, 1:35 Bundeswehr M-109G SPH and 1:48 British 7-ton (Humber) armoured car. Revell announced a new-tool 1:72 T-55A and Takom were present in their own right for the
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first time, along with AMMO (Mig Productions) who presented their 1:35 M9 dozer, three new AMX13 kits, two new T-55 tanks, a Chieftain Mk.2, Chieftain Marksman SPAAG and the wonderfully named Big Bertha WW1 howitzer. TMMI was particularly pleased to see Charlie Pritchett working with the Takom guys. He's an immensely talented modeller and his skills bring an exceptional asset to the company; we wish Charlie the best of luck. Trumpeter were at the Toy Fair of course, and they showed off the kit 1:16 Jagdtiger kit plus 1:25 T-72B, Soviet 100mm KS-19M2 AA gun, KV-220 superheavy tank, Soviet MTLB APC, Soviet 'Terminator' (the third kit of this machine in 1:35, from three different manufacturers), Soviet 2P19 SCUD launcher, M901 Patriot SAM launcher and two 1:35 kits of ISO containers; twenty and forty foot. MiniArt revealed their new 1:35 kits of the Soviet T-44 and T-55M tanks, both of which come
with extensive interior and engine detail. Also on the way from this maker are 1:35 kits of the SU-122 (initial production), SU-85 Mod.1942 (midproduction), both with full interior detail. Plus Model had a handful of new resin goodies on show, including the conventionally-wheeled version of the wonderful Pavesi P-4 tractor in 1:35, plus the Multicar M-22 airfield truck in 1:48, US pressure bottles (1:35), US Electric cart C4-32 Mule (1:48) and an announced 1:35 kit of the amazing WW1 Austrian Generatorwagen with trailer. This machine featured an electric-motor powered trailer with electricity being created by the tractor unit. The wheels of this leviathan were on show and they looked wonderful. There were many other new items of course, some of which are shown here but not all by any means. So, I hope you enjoy the highlights of this year's event. Apologies in advance for any omissions! •
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A. 1:35 SU-76M B. 1:35 SU-76M C. 1:48 7-ton armoured car Mk.IV D. 1:35 AMX-13 E. 1:35 AMX-13 F. 1:35 M109A3G G. 1:35 M107 Vitena, War AFV Edition
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SHOW REPORT: NUREMBERG TOY FAIR 2016
AFV Club 1:35 Husky MRAP
Airfix
1:72 WW2 USAAF vehicle set
1:72 WW2 USAAF vehicle set
Eduard
1:35 M4A3E8 Sherman details (Tamiya)
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1:35 T-34-76 details (ICM)
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Hauler
1:35 Bren Carrier Panzerfaust conversion
1:35 WW2 Japanese Pillbox
1:35 Somua S35 detail set
AFV Edition
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SHOW REPORT: NUREMBERG TOY FAIR 2016
Miniart
1:35 SU-122 Initial Production
1:35 SU-85 Mod.1943 mid-production
1:35 T-44M Soviet medium tank
1:35 T-44M Soviet medium tank
Plus Model
1:35 grass and reeds
1:35 Pavesi P4 rubber tired version
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1:35 Generatorwagen (WW1)
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Revell
1:35 T-55A MBT
1:72 Tiger II ausf.B
1:72 SS-25 Topol
1:72 Sd.Kfz.251 Stuka zu Fuss
Schatton
1:35 metal barrel set for Takom Flak 40 Zwilling
1:35 Wurzburg radar
AFV Edition
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SHOW REPORT: NUREMBERG TOY FAIR 2016
Takom
1:35 Chieftain Mk.2
1:35 AMX-13/75
1:35 T-55 AMV
1:35 Chieftain Marksman
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1:35 AMX-13 rubber turret seal and decals
1:35 AMX-13 w/missiles
1:35 T-55 AM
1:35 WW1 Big Bertha
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Trumpeter
1:16 Jagdtiger
1:35 T-72B MBT
1:35 Soviet 100mm air defence gun KS-19M2
1:35 MTLB APC
1:35 KV-220 ‘Russian Tiger’ super-heavy tank
1:35 Soviet Ramka BMPT Terminator
1:35 SS-1C Scud B missile system
1:35 Patriot launcher
1:35 SA-8 Gekko AA system
1:35 T-14 Armata MBT prototype
1:35 20ft container
1:35 40ft container
1:35 SS-1C Scud B missile system AFV Edition
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ORDNANCE DEPOT New and recently issued kits and accessory sets for armour modelling projects HAULER, CZECH REPUBLIC
ACCESSORIES AND CONVERSION SET Like any kit, Tamiya’s recently issued Somua S35 has the potential for up-detailing and Hauler have provided much of what’s needed in this extremely useful set. The most important of the upgrades are photo-etched straps for the distinctive hull-side stowage bins, replacing the moulded-in detail. The next significant new part is the etched mesh screen over the headlight, followed by lovely little position-keeping lights on the track-guards in resin. There’s a lot more in the set and it’s very much a worthwhile purchase if building Tamiya’s S35. Highly recommended. MN 1:35 Somua S35 details (HLU35089) for Tamiya
ABER, POLAND
ICM, UKRAINE
AFV ACCESSORIES
Two Tamiya kits get some metal upgrades here. The company’s recent kit of the US M4A3E8 Sherman gets a beautiful aluminium barrel, complete with machined brass muzzle brake and PE baffle details. A wonderful addition to this excellent kit. Tamiya’s 1:48 King Tiger (Porsche turret) is treated to a full set of engine deck screens plus some other small details in a new dedicated to the kit, to be considered an essential purchase. • 1:35 US 76mm M1A2 barrel with muzzle brake for M4A3E8 (35 L-186) for Tamiya • Grilles for Sd.Kfz.182 King Tiger (48 A27) for Tamiya
AMMO/MIG, SPAIN
SCHATTON MODELLBAU, GERMANY
WEATHERING PRODUCTS
With this set you have no excuse for not adding layers of mud, earth and dust to your armour models now – there must be potion for every type of miniature muck here. All are based on a low-odour spirit solvent and use varying degrees of enamel paint and texture medium to create realistic-looking mud, dust etc., to be applied by brush. • Dry Light Soil (A.MIG-1700) • Thick Soil (A.MIG-1701) • Turned Earth (A.MIG-1702) • Moist Ground (A.MIG-1703) • Heavy Earth (A.MIG-1704) • Wet Mud (A.MIG-1705) • Dry Earth (A.MIG-1750) • Dry Steppe (A.MIG-1751) • Loose Ground (A.MIG-1752) • Turned Dirt (A.MIG-1753) • Damp Earth (A.MIG-1754) • Wet Ground (A.MIG-1755)
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AFV ACCESSORIES
Takom’s twin 12.8cm Flak 40 zwilling anti-aircraft gun emplacement is a great kit and these new, machined aluminium replacement barrels will really give it a touch of class. Each barrel comes in forward and rear sections and the muzzles feature a milled-in rifling effect. Beautifully made and a very worthy upgrade. 1:35 aluminium replacement barrels for Takom Flak 40
FIGURE SET
Weapon and infantry accessories are always welcome and this new set from ICM are particularly well done. In the box you’ll find helmets, entrenching tools, daggers, water bottles, gas mask cases and more, plus a couple each of the KAR98, MG34 and MP40, plus associated ammo pouches. 1:35 WWII German infantry weapons and equipment (35638)
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EUREKA XXL, POLAND
MINIART, UKRAINE
DIORAMA ACCESSORIES
Some excellent diorama accessories here from the idiosyncratically-named Eureka XXL. For dioramas depicting modern-day scenes we roadway panels cast in an extremely fine-grained, plaster-like material, in the perfect shade of concrete. Very interesting. • 1:35 Modern concrete road panels perforated (E-018) • 1:35 Modern concrete road panels set #1 (E-019) • 1:35 Modern concrete road panels set #2 (E-20)
FIGURE SET PLUS MODEL, CZECH REPUBLIC
DIORAMA ACCESSORIES
These wooden crates are perfect for WW2 dioramas featuring US vehicles. Made from laser-cut wood, they look highly realistic. Also new from Plus Model (in their ‘Easy Line’ range) is a small but extremely effective road barrier in resin with a wood beam, a vignette in the making. Finally, ‘tufts of grass – dry’ does exactly what it says on the pack, and very realistic they are too. • 1:35 US wooden crates for condensed milk WWII (481) • 1:35 Road barrier (EL066) • Tufts of dry grass (472)
If you are modelling an early-war German vehicle (plenty of good kits out there these days) this set is perfect for crewing it. The pack comprises five, injection-moulded figures, all beautifully detailed and in natural poses. German tank crew France 1940 (35191)
WHERE TO BUY? SCHATTON MODELLBAU; www.modellbau-schatton.privat.t-online.de PLUS MODEL; www.creativemodels.co.uk MINIART; www.creativemodels.co.uk ICM; www.hannants.co.uk EUREKA XXL; www.eurekaxxl.com HAULER; www.hauler.cz ABER; www.aber.net.pl AMMO/MIG; www.migjimenez.com
AFV Edition
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FEATURE ARTICLE: TRUMPETER 1:35 STALINETS S-65 • KIT NO.5538
A F O L L U P THE E S R O H Y M R A N A I S S U R Chema Cabrero explains how he painted Trumpeter's 1:35 Stalinets S-65 tractor, using Vallejo paints and a variety of techniques
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trongly inspired by the designs of US maker 'Caterpillar', the Stalinets S-65 was a development and improvement of the previous model that used an S-60 gasoline engine. The S-65 was the first to be equipped with an 18.5 litre, fourcylinder M17 Diesel engine that produced just 65Hp (but loads of torque) at a speed of only seven kilometres per hour. It was one of the tractors produced in vast numbers in the USSR, with 37,656 units produced by the ChTZ works between 1937 and 1941. As you might imagine, the industrial plant needed to focus all its efforts on the production of tanks from 1941 onwards. With a weight of 11.2 tons it was used for towing artillery such as the B4 ML20 203mm and 152mm guns, and also as a recovery vehicle. Many were captured by the Germans and were engaged in multiple tasks at the front. An indispensable reference source is the book 'Tyagatshi' on tractors and produced in USSR. We must remember that, according to the Russian custom to submit their designs (trucks, cars and other vehicles) to hard pre-testing before official acceptance and mass production, the Stalinets suffered under extreme test conditions in Yakutiya, down to -50degC in the snow and the brutal heat of Pamir, Turkestan. During WW2 the factory in the city of Chelyabinsk was renamed 'Kirov'. The model of Trumpeter was a very original subject choice, offering some great possibilities for modellers. The model will require some attention in certain areas where assembly gets complicated, particularly with the tracks which use rather complex links and do not fit perfectly over the running gear. The most obvious drawback of the kit ls the lack of an engine, because in most vintage photographs, it's shown uncovered with the side panels removed, but the aftermarket resin makers fill that gap. So, let's take a look at the how I painted the model, mostly using acrylic paints and weathering materials from Vallejo, who offer a vast range of such stuff. •
The underside of the vehicle is detailed but almost invisible. The tracks do not offer a precise fit, so the modeller must take care of proper alignment and attachment to the running gear as any little gaps or twists will be very apparent in a vehicle of this size
I opted to paint the vehicle initially in Vallejo Russian Green 4BO. Using this as pre-shading layer, I applied the different shades of green that can be found in the paint set. The user must be logical in defining the model's best lit areas, creating transitions within the concept of colour modulation without sudden changes or excessive contrast; less is more! We should note that the surface-effects to follow will soften any contrast in the initial painted finish
E To provide an interesting contrast in colour to the model, I used the Vallejo 'Rust and Chipping set' (71.186), to recreate a rusty engine cover and worn blue tones, suggesting parts were taken from another tractor. We do not need to use all the tones included; in this case I used four tones of rust, from dark to light, for the characteristic look of rusty sheet metal. Photographic references of these textures on actual vehicles are essential
I used an airbrush, paint brush and sponge (shown here) to recreate the varied nuances and patterns of the oxidised steel
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FEATURE ARTICLE: TRUMPETER 1:35 STALINETS S-65 • KIT NO.5538
Once I was satisfied with the effect, I sprayed on a layer of Vallejo’s ‘Chipping Medium’
Once it had dried, I applied a layer of light blue, made from six parts Model Air White and three parts Blue. It is not necessary for the blue layer to be solid and continuous
I then applied a general and subtle colour-wash of Dark Rust and Rust Model Wash
Once dry, I used a stiff-bristled brush dipped in warm water to partially remove the blue paint, which creates a very realistic result of wear easily and quickly. We can make small corrections and enhancements using a brush with the same shade of blue
Once dry, the cyrillic patriotic slogan 'Stalin!' was applied using dry transfers from Mig Productions. I then painted the tracks again with the Rust and Chipping set, using German Camo Dark Brown and Orange rust this time, applied along the centre of the links and on the underbody
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The polished steel areas of the tracks were reproduced by rubbing on (with a fingertip) Vallejo Pigments Dark Steel powder
I made a small bracket to support the tool box using Evergreen 0.25mm styrene sheet. The underside of the bracket was weathered with rust tones, flicked on with an old toothbrush
Taking advantage of the versatility of Vallejo Model Wash, I made some subtle changes in tone with the use of glazes and 'filters'. I advise you to moisten the model surface with plain water and to use two paint brushes at a time; one to apply the 'Wash and the other to blend it into the surrounding areas, to avoid unrealistic 'tide marks'
One detail that Trumpeter did not take into account was the texture of the driver’s seat; it’s non-existent, represented by a polished and unconvincing moulding. I employed a little tromp l’oeil with various shades of brown to create a leathery texture on the seat
When painting the details of the controls and levers, don’t forget to add the look of polished steel on the pedals or wood components
To form the appearance of exposed metal on the vehicle, I used a piece of sponge and a brush, dabbing on Model AirBlack Brown Camo
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FEATURE ARTICLE: TRUMPETER 1:35 STALINETS S-65 • KIT NO.5538
I created some specific colourwashes to suggest an initial layer of accumulated dust and dirt, via the application of Vallejo Model Wash 'Desert Dust' (76.522)
A new session of colour-washes brought some depth to the details, using Vallejo Sepia Wash and Dark Rust Model Wash
MODELSPEC TRUMPETER 1:35 STALINETS S-65
KIT NO.5538
Paints and finishing products used;
The effects of oil and grease in certain places was reproduced by mixing Sepia Wash mixed with Gloss Varnish, but we should not overdo things with this effect!
Vallejo Acrylics; Russian Green 4BO set (78.403), Rust and Chipping Effects (71.186), Chipping Medium (73.214), Blue (71.004), White (71.001), Model Wash Dark Rust (76.507), Dark Khaki Green (76.520), Oiled Earth (76.521), Desert Dust (76.522), Dark Yellow (76.503), Sepia Shade (73200), Silver (71.063) Availability; Trumpeter models are accessories are imported and distributed in the UK by Pocketbond Ltd. Available widely from good model shops. Vallejo paints and materials are available from Creative Models; www.creativemodels.co.uk
The appearance of polished steel on the edges of the track links was accentuated with Vallejo Model Air Silver (71.063)
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KIT PREVIEW: AFV CLUB 1:35 BILSTEIN-DREHKRAN 3T AUF BÜSSING-NAG 4500A • KIT NO.AF35279
BÜSSING’S BOX OF TRICKS
MiM’s Editor examines AFV Club’s extraordinary 1:35 Büssing-NAG crane truck, a complex and satisfying model
I
n this release, AFV Club have taken their superb Büssing-NAG truck mouldings and added new parts for a Bilstein three-ton cane, creating a workshop vehicle that will appeal equally to diorama builders, extreme weatherers and fans of WW2 German trucks. The truck itself is an amazingly elaborate production, with the chassis, suspension, drivetrain, engine and cabin bodywork building up piece by tiny piece. With patience, a sharp scalpel, good tweezers, bright lights and a optical magnifier (if you need one), the kit is a potentially fantastic miniature reproduction of this distinctive-looking truck. By adding the Bilstein crane, AFV Club have upped the detail levels even further, offering an experienced modeller a deliciously challenging model project. The crane alone takes up nearly four pages of the instruction booklet which gives you clue to its complexity, plus the rear deck on which
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the Bilstein unit is mounted, plus the ‘tool box’ behind the cabin. You’d think a truck model would be quite a straightforward affair wouldn’t you? This release proves otherwise. The model’s parts themselves are highly refined, with lovely touches such as open-moulded louvres on the engine covers, very subtle wood-grain texture on the floor of the crane deck, a choice of radiator grilles and crane data placards provided on the decal sheet. The tyres are moulded in semisoft black vinyl, a length of cord is included for the crane’s cables and photo-etched brass parts are provided for the radiator grille, fuel-can seams and other small sheet-metal fittings. Three markings options are suggested; two Eastern Front vehicles in overall panzergrau, plus a much more interesting one in green-brown with a camouflage pattern in olive-green; the green being restricted to the cab and toolbox.
In summing this kit up, it must be remembered that this is a model is aimed at more experienced modellers. It has a huge parts-count and there are some extremely delicate and small moulded components involved in its construction, but this is not a criticism as such, just something to note. AFV Club’s Büssing-NAG is one of those kits that sometimes slip under the radar, but it should not be ignored, it’s fantastic. • MN
Modelspec; AFV CLUB BILSTEIN-DREHKRAN 3T AUF BÜSSING-NAG 4500A KIT NO.AF35279 SCALE; 1:35 MATERIALS; IM, SVT, PE, WS AVAILABILITY; From all good model shops. UK import and distribution; Pocketbond Ltd www.pocketbond.co.uk
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Available in the ‘HOW TO BUILD...’ series HOW TO BUILD... TAMIYA’S ARMOUR KITS IN 1:35 Though the modelling world is awash with an incredible variety of military vehicle kits from a huge number of different companies, one stands head and shoulders above the others in terms of originality, buildability and fun. That company is Tamiya, who have consistently provided the budding enthusiast with some of the finest kits available in the scale of 1:35. This new book brings together five detailed features that will show what is possible from this extensive range of kits. In so doing, it offers hints and tips, detailed step-by-step guides and written descriptions on all manner of techniques from basic construction, through detailing, painting and realistic weathering. No stone is left unturned in the quest to inspire the modeller to complete similar projects for themselves. It really is a one-stop-shop for the budding military modeller! Within its 84 pages you will five find features that take you through the construction and painting of the ‘Easy Eight’ Sherman, Nashorn, Elefant, Gama Goat and Tiran 5, all expertly put together by our renowned team of authors, Spencer Pollard, Brett Green and Marcus Nicholls, who have created one of the finest collections of modelling features ever published, on this famous range of kits. This then is the world of Tamiya’s wonderful 1:35 military vehicle kits plus p&p – we hope that you enjoy your visit!
Only
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01/03/2016 17:04
FEATURE ARTICLE: HOBBYBOSS 1:35 PEOPLES LIBERATION ARMY ZTZ 99B MBT
MADE IN
CHINA
Pete Smith takes a break from NATO armour and builds Hobbyboss's 1:35 People's Liberation Army ZTZ99 Chinese main battle tank
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H
aving a taste for the unusual when it comes to modelling, I’m always on the lookout for something different and have previously built a few Chinese PLA kits that I really enjoyed. So it was nice to yet again delve into the world of far-eastern armour. The ZTZ 99B is the newest tank in the PLA’s armoury and is said to be very advanced. A passing resemblance to Soviet armour is very apparent when looking at it.
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BUILDING THE KIT
Construction of the kit is very straightforward and Hobbyboss provide a sensible build sequence. The parts are moulded in a very nice grey plastic which holds excellent detail and is very easy to work with. The lower hull, wheels and suspension parts build up in no time and straight away you can see that this is a long, lean-looking tank. Inside the box you will also find some photo-etched grills for the engine deck. I slightly up-detailed this area, adding a new hinge rod and some small bolts. On the hull and turret armour panels the recessed areas were enhanced with a seam-scraper to add more depth to them. The kit comes with rear fuel drum holders but oddly no barrels, so a couple of drums were added and some clamps made up using lead foil and plastic rod. The tracks in the kit are rubber block faced, however I wanted to model a vehicle on exercise so decided to source some metalfaced tracks. Spade Ace came to the rescue with a very nice set of white metal items. Although quite complicated to assemble the final runs look excellent. Spade Ace provide you with enough tracks for two half runs which works out very well once the side skirts are in place. The turret builds up very quickly with some fine chain added to the smoke dischargers and a few extra bolts and new handles from brass wire added to the commander's hatch. The gunnery sensors on the turret roof had magic sculpt covers added as well. The mantlet cover fixes the barrel in one position but it would not be too difficult to cut and adjust this if you wanted a different gun position. Here I also added a small piece of plastic tube to the co-axial machine gun port, as this is missing in the kit. The commander’s machine gun received a better detailed Tamiya ammo box and some lead wire for cabling. Progress was swift on this kit, mostly due to the excellent fit of parts but also as this was an (almost) out-of-the-box build.
The hull takes shape; note the fuel drum brackets
Close-up on the engine deck screens
A close-up view of the turret cheek armour and barrel dust cover
The author added some stowage to the turret top and bin
The fuel drums are in place; note their securing straps
ON WITH THE PAINT
After priming it was time to paint the beast and here I deviated from the normal PLA colour scheme of a light and dark green and a sand colour and went for the less often seen two green and brown scheme. For the brown shade I mixed up Tamiya XF-9 Hull Red with XF-2 Flat White and XF-15 Flat Flesh until I found the tone that matched my references. This was then sprayed onto the model. For the greens I used Mr. Hobby H303 and H309 to which I added a drop of black. These were then sprayed on freehand following the kit painting guide. Hobbyboss also provide a full 1:35 scale plan of the model sporting the parade digital camo scheme if you feel so inclined! For an experiment I then sprayed Tamiya X-19 Smoke heavily thinned along all the panel lines and recesses to create some shadows and slightly tone down the colour of the brown. This worked extremely well and as those amongst you who build aircraft know it’s a very effective way of adding some visual interest to panels. The resulting colour scheme is very vibrant and certainly something different. After a coat of gloss varnish the decals went on. These were limited to the turret and again they added a nice bit of colour to the model. Light chipping went on next using the base colour lightened with white. Some darker areas
The model has been gloss-coated and decalled up; it looks odd now but it’ll soon be okay again
Here we see the colourful turret markings, still on their gloss varnish
A layer of matt restores thing to a more natural-looking finish
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FEATURE ARTICLE: HOBBYBOSS 1:35 PEOPLES LIBERATION ARMY ZTZ 99B MBT
such as the tow points and around hatches were also applied, but kept subtle. The commander’s independent sight and mantlet cover were also picked out in different green tones. At this stage it’s a good idea to paint the periscopes and here, Games Workshop Silver was used, any areas being touched up where needed, using the base colours and a fine brush. After another coat of gloss varnish to seal everything, I started on the colour-washes and 'filters' (overall colour-washes used to adjust the colour tone of the model's paintwork). Here again I tried something new and used some of Wilder's new products. I began with a localised colour-wash using Wilder Deep Shadow wash slightly thinned with white spirit. This was followed by a few applications of Grey Brown filter, both as a general filter and as a more localised, 'pin' wash. Both these products worked really well and the wash in particular gave a very pleasing dusty effect over the whole model and toned down the colours well. A small amount of oil dot fading was now added mostly to the front hull and turret armour panels. After this had all dried and following a coat of matt varnish, the periscopes and lights were painted using AMMO Crystal Clear colours. Next the tracks had a soak in 'Blacken-It' and once happy with the effect, I rinsed off with water and set aside for further work later on. The sprockets and machine gun had metallic areas created using graphite powder rubbed in with the tip of a finger.
The real deal, in a slightly different camouflage scheme. Note the colour of the tracks
The barrel dust cover has been painted and some rain marks applied to the turret surfaces
FINAL WEATHERING
I began by mixing up a selection of pigments from Mig Productions, Vallejo and AK then starting on the lower hull and wheels, applied this over a wet coat of Tamiya thinner, which helped to fix the pigments in place. When dry these applications were lightly blended together. The tracks were treated to a wet mixture of the pigment mix and worked into the pads. Once dry, a stiff brush was used to remove the excess. Graphite powder was then used to create a burnished look from the road wheels on the inner faces and a sanding stick lightly rubbed over the outer face of the tracks, easily added wear here. The rest of the model was worked over with the dry pigment mix and blended in with soft brushes. Finally, wet pigment was flicked from a brush over the lower areas to form mud splatters and smoke staining added to the exhaust ports using black pigment.
The author used a body from the spares boxes and added suitable collars and pockets from putty. The heads are from a Dream Works JGSDF set and come with the correct helmet
FIGURE, STOWAGE AND BASE
Finding modern PLA figures is not an easy task. Bronco does produce a couple of sets depicting marching parade troops but there is very little in the way of AFV crew figures out there. However at the time of this build I managed to find one set from a company called 'Dream Works'. Although these are very nice they are all in parade stance and look a little stiff in pose for normal use. My solution was to raid the spares box for a suitable body and arms and then use one of the Dream Works heads. Magic Sculpt was used to add a collar and pockets for the torso. The figure was then painted up in a digi-cam pattern using Vallejo acrylic colours, referring to the limited references I could find. Some stowage – in the form of a couple of tarps – was found in the spares box and painted up. The basework started with a Tamiya base, which was primed then sprayed black. After masking
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A layer of dust, plus subtle, dried splashes of mud create just the right look for the vehicle on manoeuvre
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Views of the diorama-ready model reveal its pleasingly dusty but not over-weathered look
off the edges, plaster, fine sand and gravel were applied and a sheet of cling film laid over the top. The model was then pressed into the almost set plaster. Once happy with the sit of the model on the base it was left to dry. Static grass was applied randomly, then lots of grass tufts were added too. The whole thing was then sprayed with earth and dust tones and the grass sprayed with a very faded green shade and then drybrushed with a dusty yellow mixed from oil paints. Metal posts were added using plastic rod painted in rusty tones and some lane tape added using plumber’s tape. Leftover pigments then went
on the base to add further tones and to blend the base and the model together. Finally the tank was fixed to the base using epoxy resin glue and the figure mounted in the turret.
CONCLUSION
Although Chinese armour is not everyone’s cup of tea, for those of us looking for something different the choice is growing steadily with most of the major manufacturers now producing a large selection of PLA vehicles. Hobbyboss has certainly lead the field with plenty to choose from. The kits can also be obtained very cheaply which is also
another incentive to build these interesting models! The varied and unusual colour schemes used also make for an attractive alternative to NATO or Russian armour with their monotone and drab colours. All that’s really needed is for someone to produce crew figures, as not everyone is able to scratchbuild their own. However I’m sure some won’t be too far away. •
AVAILABILITY
Hobbyboss kits and accessories are imported and distributed in the UK by Creative Models; www.creativemodels.co.uk
This simple yet realistic presentation with metal stakes and white tape perfectly suggests that the tank is on exercises and not at war
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KIT PREVIEW: TAMIYA 1:35 FRENCH LIGHT TANK AMX-13 • KIT NO.35349
TAMIYA 1:35 FRENCH AMX-13 LIGHT TANK Tamiya’s latest armour kit depicts a post-war French AFV that has plenty of interesting potential. The Editor investigates
T
he French contingent of Tamiya’s 1:35 Military Miniature Series is boosted by this new model of the French AMX-13 light tank. This interesting vehicle employed an oscillating turret, which was made of two halves, with the gun fitted to the upper half. When it fired, the whole upper half recoiled. This design helped facilitate the AMX-13’s auto-loader.
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The tank was produced over the period of 1952-1987 and exported to a number of other countries’ militaries in addition to its use by French forces. Different variants were produced, including 75mm, 90mm gun, 105mm gun and anti-tank missile AMX-13s. Tamiya’s new kit comes with highly detailed one-piece flexible tracks of the rubber-pad type and comes with a commander
torso figure for use in the cupola. Two marking options will be found on the decal sheet. In these photos we can see some key aspects such as the cast texture on the turret and hatch mouldings, the moulded fabric-effect ‘bellows’ between the upper and lower turret halves and the large engine fan grille with internal detail. • MN
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Photo; Wikimedia Commons
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FULL-BUILD: KV-85 CONVERSION PROJECT
WHEN KV MEETS JS
Ikjai Ahn kit-bashes Trumpeter's KV-1 and Zvezda's JS-2 to create a KV-85
S
ome time back, I decided I wanted to make a KV-85 – a tank which was the last model in the KV series – after having built models of the four types of KV from the prototype to the KV1S (kit from Eastern Express). It was very difficult to get the Eastern Express 1:35 KV-85 in Korea but I remembered that this variant was derived from the development process of the JS-1. So, I had an idea! I could combine Trumpeter’s KV hull and Zvezda’s JS turret from a kit that had become obsolete after the release of Tamiya’s new JS-2.
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FULL-BUILD: KV-85 CONVERSION PROJECT
An overview of the unpainted model reveals the changes and additions made by the author to the Zvezda turret and Trumpeter hull
Significant work was needed in making the turret sit correctly on its ring
The turret cheek armour was mildly reworked and retextured
Here we see the edge of the turret ring that overhangs the hull sides; the red areas are filler
TURRET-MAKING; THE GUN BARREL
Zvezda’s JS depicts the model with the 122mm gun, but the KV-85 and JS-1 were equipped with the 85mm gun, so I cut out a slice from the front part of Zvezda’s JS-2 turret because there is a difference in size and shape between the JS-2 and KV-85 in this area. I corrected the size of the gun shield by observing photos of the KV-85 and the barrel of Dragon’s T-34/85 was used. Also I contemplated using Dragon’s SU-85 barrel because it used the same unit as the KV-85. Based on the decent shape of Zvezda’s turret, I applied Tamiya putty (diluted with thinner) using brush to create a cast-steel texture and I enhanced the welding lines by referring to photos of the real KV-85.
TURRET RING
It’s really difficult to find the correct position of the turret-ring on the hull. None of my references show it in the same position. Anyway, I fixed the location of the turret on the Trumpeter kit's upper hull and added plastic strips to correct and adjust its placement. I used spare parts from Tamiya’s JS-2, JSU-152 and other Russian tank kits during the KV-85 turret's construction to replace Zvezda’s not so great details.
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The hull of an old model was used to check the turret as it progressed
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The KV-85’s build work is complete and soon the paint will follow. In this view, note the new resin machine gun base and headlight with bulb inside
Additional weld seams are present on the upper hull armour and along the top of the glacis plate
Here we can observe the new resin horn and rain gutter over the driver’s vision port
The straps for the fender-mounted fuel drums were made from brass strip
Note the realistically wobbly mesh screens over the engine cooling intakes AFV Edition
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FULL-BUILD: KV-85 CONVERSION PROJECT
A view up the KV-85’s rear end, so to speak. We can observe the metal mesh screen and mud deflector under the rear overhang
The track guards are on and further detailing has been added. Note the bolts securing the spare track link
The Zvezda turret is well detailed but some additions are still worth making. The loader’s hatch has been given a new torsion spring and the cast steel texture and weld seams have all been enhanced
HULL-MAKING; THE REAR
After checking Eastern Express’ KV-1S and SU152, I corrected the curved part at the rear of the hull because the shape of Trumpeter’s moulding is not good so. It was not easy to make the correct shape of this part and I underwent trial and error several times until I finished it. I used Trumpeter’s components for the engine intake screens and
replaced the handrails using plastic and brass rod. The straps around the fuel drums were remade from brass strip and the circular engine access hatches were taken from the Eastern Express kit.
UP FRONT
The hull driver's hatch hole for machine gun were sealed up. The bullet splash-guard was added
over the sealed hatch (not forgetting the weld seams) and a rain gutter placed over the frontal vision port. There are two types of road wheel in Eastern Express’ KV-1S and SU-152 kits, so I used one of them. For tracks, I used a set from Friulmodel for the JS series. I guess when Russia developed the JS-1 and its track, they mounted the tracks to KV-85 too.
The KV-85 and a KV-1 in their basic greens. The weathering stages will transform their appearance
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PAINTING
I applied Gunze lacquer paint for basic shades (mixed colours and semi-gloss on purpose). Humbrol brown and black enamels were used for painting the tracks. After basic painting, I applied raw umber oil paint for 'filtering', or overall colourwashes. The purposes of using thinned raw umber was to vary the surface tones and highlight the shapes of the tank hull. After I had completed the colour-washes, I applied my water based weathering material called 'Easy Mud' (Item No.21105 European Earth) to form the basic dirt effects. Using a brush, I painted on Easy Mud (thinned with water) over the road wheels and tracks. For the inner sides of wheels and tracks, I applied undiluted Easy Mud and for the outer sides, applied more of the diluted material. And then I mopped up any excess using a cotton swab to create a more natural weathering effect. In some areas, I flicked thin Easy Mud onto the model using a brush. For weathering the upper hull and turret, I painted on thin layers of the liquid mud, applied in the same way as you might apply a colour-wash.
The key point during this work is that the application method has to be different for the horizontal and vertical planes, in other words, heavier layers for the horizontal plane, lighter layers for vertical plane. And during the colour-washes, the brush’s direction has to follow the direction of gravity, so we can create rainwater marks at the same time. A careful application of a colour-wash is very important because sometimes it can cover model’s details, so, a technique that enhances, not obscures the model’s detail is really important. After weathering the base work using the Easy Mud product, the result can sometimes look dry and rather monotonous. In the case of KV-85, after basic weathering using Easy Mud, I painted on another shade of Easy Mud plus further raw umber oil colour. I applied this in the recesses of the wheels, tracks, hull and turret using fine brush to create contrast.
The decals were applied over a coat of gloss varnish, as they always should
“a technique that enhances, not obscures the model’s detail is really important...”
This well-lit shot shows the subtle weathering applied by the author. Note the areas of exposed, oxidised ‘steel’
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FULL-BUILD: KV-85 CONVERSION PROJECT
FINISHING OFF
To create the appearance of steel, I used a soft pencil (4B) on the edges of parts like the road wheels, tracks and other areas that would have been subject to extreme wear and tear. And I added some smaller effects such as light rust on welded parts, soot on exhaust pipe and oil marks in some areas. Finally, it was done! I now have six tanks from KV-1 mod. 1939 to KV-85 in my display case. • Easy Mud is available from; www.hobbyeasy.com
The overall effect of the Easy Mud and dust have created an extremely realistic result
“To create the appearance of steel, I used a soft pencil (4B)...”
Subtle oil stain and soot patches were applied to the engine deck
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NEW FROM ADH PUBLISHING
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Superdetailing, Painting and Weathering
Aircraft of WWII, with airfield accessories, ordnance and diorama
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REFERENCE FEATURE: PEGASUS BRIDGE
BRIDGE ON THE CAEN CANAL A photo-study of the famous 'Pegasus Bridge', Normandy, iconic scene of airborne action on the morning of D-Day Colour photos; Marcus Nicholls
40
P
egasus Bridge is a bascule bridge (a type of movable bridge), that was built in 1934, that crossed the Caen Canal, between Caen and Ouistreham, in Normandy, France. Also known as the Bénouville Bridge after the neighbouring village, it was, with the nearby Ranville Bridge over the river Orne, a major objective of the British airborne troops during Operation Deadstick, part of Operation Tonga in the opening minutes of the Allied invasion of Normandy on June 6th 1944 during the Second World War. A unit of glider infantry of the British 6th Airborne Division, commanded by Major John Howard, was to land, take the bridges intact and “hold until relieved”. The successful taking of the
bridges played an important role in limiting the effectiveness of a German counter-attack in the days and weeks following the Normandy invasion. In 1944 it was renamed Pegasus Bridge in honour of the operation. The name is derived from the shoulder emblem worn by the British airborne forces, which is the flying horse Pegasus. Pegasus Bridge and the structure that replaced it in 1994 are examples of a distinct sub type of bascule bridge, the 'Scherzer rolling lift bascule bridge' or 'rolling bridge'. Bridges of this type do not pivot about a hinge point, but roll back on curved tread plates attached to the girders of the main span. This design allows a greater clearance of the waterway for a given opening angle.
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BATTLE FOR THE BRIDGE; OPERATION DEADSTICK
Pegasus Bridge, June 9th 1944; Horsa gliders can be seen where they landed. On the night of June 5th 1944, a force of 181 men, led by Major John Howard, took off from RAF Tarrant Rushton in Dorset, southern England in six Horsa gliders to capture Pegasus Bridge, and also 'Horsa Bridge', a few hundred yards to the east, over the Orne River. The force was composed of D Company (reinforced by two platoons of B Company), 2nd Battalion, Oxford and Bucks Light Infantry; twenty sappers of the Royal Engineers of 249 Field Company (Airborne); and men of the Glider Pilot Regiment. The object of this action was to prevent German armour from crossing the bridges and attacking the eastern flank of the landings at Sword Beach. Five of the Ox and Bucks gliders landed as close as forty-seven yards from their objectives from sixteen minutes past midnight. The attackers poured out of their battered gliders, completely surprising the German defenders and took the bridges within ten minutes. They lost two men in the process, Lieutenant Den Brotheridge and Lance corporal Fred Greenhalgh. Greenhalgh drowned in a nearby pond when his glider landed. Lieutenant Brotheridge was killed crossing the bridge in the first minutes of the assault and thus became the first member of the invading Allied armies to die as a result of enemy fire on D-Day. One glider, assigned to the capture of the river bridge, landed at the bridge over the River Dives,
some seven miles off. Most of the soldiers in this glider moved through German lines towards the village of Ranville where they eventually re-joined the British forces. The Ox and Bucks were reinforced half-an-hour after the landings by Lieutenant Colonel Pine-Coffin's 7th Parachute Battalion and linked up with the beach landing forces with the arrival of Lord Lovat's Commandos. One of the members of the 7th Battalion reinforcements was Captain Richard Todd, a young actor, who would, nearly two decades later, play Major Howard in the film The Longest Day.
PEGASUS BRIDGE TODAY; ORIGINAL BRIDGE IN THE MEMORIAL PEGASUS - JULY 2005
The original Pegasus Bridge now resides in the grounds of the Pegasus Museum. The museum was inaugurated by HRH The Prince of Wales on June 4th 2000, Brigadier James Hill, Françoise Gondrée foundress with General Sir Richard Nelson Gale as President and lies at the Eastern end of the current bridge. The original bridge was replaced in 1994 by a wider, stronger structure, built by Spie Batignolles. It had been extended by five metres in the early 1960s to accommodate the widening of the canal and remained in use until 1993. After its replacement, Pegasus Bridge was left on waste ground. The bridge was sold to the museum for the symbolic price of one Franc. Many of the soldiers killed in the actions of June 1944 are buried in the war cemetery at Ranville. Lt. Brotheridge's grave, which is located in the churchyard next to the cemetery. has a commemorative plaque that was
The famous badge of the British airborne forces, Pegasus, the flying horse, after which the bridge is named
installed by the Gondrée family. The museum contains a café and a small museum shop that sells Pegasus Bridge related material. Arlette Gondrée, who now runs Café Gondrée, was a small child living in the home when it was liberated. It is not certain that the famous Gondrée café was the first French house to be liberated during D-Day. In the book Commando du Pont Pegase written by the French historian Norbert Hugedé, it is written that it was the house owned by Mr Picot, a few hours before the Gondrée's house. • Source; Wikipedia
An interesting aerial view of the bridge, later to be named ‘Pegasus’ AFV Edition
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REFERENCE FEATURE: PEGASUS BRIDGE
View showing the large steel plates on which the bridge rotates upwards
Detail view showing the side structure of the tower
Underside view of a tower walkway
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Views of the ‘lifting’ end of the bridge
Close-up of roadway surface/structure
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REFERENCE FEATURE: PEGASUS BRIDGE
Overall view of the bridge main tower
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KIT PREVIEW: REVELL 1:35 LEOPARD 1 • KIT NO.03240
A FINE FELINE
MiM's Editor is rather impressed by Revell's all new kit of the Leopard 1 MBT
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his is an all new kit from Revell, not a re-boxing of an existing kit and thus requires some close-up inspection to check out the levels of detail. The model represents the first production variant of Germany's first home-grown main battle tank since the Second World War and is thus a significant machine, both technically and historically. The very first thing you'll notice about Revell's kit is that the parts are moulded in grey plastic, rather than the company's regular dark green material. For me, this is a welcome change as I find the dark green polystyrene parts rather hard to work with during assembly. The kit features a multi-part lower hull; having the side-panels moulded this way allows for better detail
and also allows for alternative rear hull plates (one for German-only machines, the other for German, Belgian and Dutch army machines). The suspension parts build directly to the hull sides and before you know it, the lower hull will have its wheels and tracks in place, waiting for the upper hull and turret. Lots of detail parts are added in the upper hull stages and again we have quite a few alternative parts and placements for German, Belgian and Dutch tanks, so it's important to pick which version you will build before starting the build. Detail is very nice throughout; whether this is because it is actually better than previous releases or just more visible on the grey plastic parts is hard to judge, but it's a win-win either way.
The turret exhibits a good cast texture but it would look more natural with the application of a layer of thinned modelling putty followed by a light sanding to introduce a little irregularity to the surface. The dust cover over the top of the gun mantlet is particularly well done with a realistically wrinkled cloth pattern and there are other areas that have received some special detail treatment from Revell's designers; the front fender cross-hatch pattern springs to mind. The tracks come in the form of one-piece flexible mouldings and aside from rows of ejector-pin marks, are pretty decent items. If you have the budget and really want to make this excellent kit shine, it'll be well worth investing in a set of Friulmodel's cast metal tracks for the Leopard 1 (Item No.ATL-158, www.friulmodel.hu). These tracks offer improved detail and sit better on the tank's running gear than the standard synthetic rubber links. Revell didn't make much of a fuss over the release of their new Leopard 1 but they should have. It's a beautifully detailed kit with lots of options for the different countries' armies it served with, so offers the modeller plenty to do. And it's moulded in grey plastic too. • MN
Modelspec; REVELL LEOPARD 1 KIT NO.03240 SCALE; 1:35 MATERIALS; IM, SVT, WS AVAILABILITY; Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model stores. For details visit www.revell.de/en Factory photo provided by Revell
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Factory photo provided by Revell
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MODEL TECHNIQUES: JAGDPANZER 38(T) CAMOUFLAGE MASKS
HIDING A HETZER
Mario Eens describes how to mask and paint two of the Hetzer tank destroyer's complex camouflage schemes, using MXpression mask sets Photos by Harry Steen & Mario Eens
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he reason why German WWII AFVs are so popular amongst modellers has a lot to do with the attractiveness and diversity of the camouflages. That appeal also has its disadvantages, as not every camouflage scheme is that easy to copy. Moreover, certain schemes have a fixed pattern. One of the vehicles with a number of fixed camouflage patterns is the Hetzer. These vehicles often received a camouflage pattern in the factory with or without the use of stencils. Patterns also differed from factory to factory. To make the modeller’s life a bit easier, MXpression has now released a number of sets, both in 1:48 and 1:35, that simplify airbrushing such patterns a great deal. In the following article I will show you step by step how to use them. Here I’ll be using the top of a Hetzer hull. In this case, a Tamiya kit, but the masks can be used on kits from any manufacturer. The model will also be divided in two halves with a different pattern on each side. This way, two patterns – and how to apply them – can be shown at the same time. The left half will get the Skoda Ambush scheme and the right half the BMM Ambush scheme. Each set consists of two sheets of masking film and an instruction sheet. On the front of the instructions you’ll find a numbered drawing showing all the different parts of the set and on the reverse the right order in which to perform all the different steps. During the painting of this step by step both hull halves were sometimes painted in the same colour simultaneously, but to keep it simple I’ll discuss each half separately.
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COLOURS
For airbrushing, I used Tamiya colours, but of course it doesn’t really matter which paint you use. The yellow is a half/half mixture of XF-3 Yellow and XF-15 Flat Flesh, after which a bit of XF-2 Flat White was added to make it a little lighter and some XF-57 Buff to neutralise the colour a bit. For the green a few drops of XF-8 Flat Blue were added to the mixture above. Then also some XF-2 Flat White to make it a little lighter, a few drops of XF-58 Olive Green and finally a few drops of XF-10 Flat Brown to ‘dirty up’ the colour. The brown colour was made by mixing XF-10 Flat Brown with some of the yellow mixture.
Subject of this article are the Skoda and BMM Ambush masks by MXpression
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Good reference material is essential. The BMM Ambush scheme is amply illustrated in this Ground Power publication
For this article both the Skoda as BMM scheme were added to the same hull. Skoda left, BMM right
Every set contains two sheets of masks and a sheet of instructions
After removing the edge of the masks everything becomes much clearer
Larger parts of the masks can be cut in two with scissors, which makes it easier to place them on the model
A good place to cut them is where the side and top meet
SKODA SCHEME
When doing some masking there is one simple rule, mask the part that is easiest to mask, or which is least time consuming. In the case of the Skoda scheme it is best to first airbrush and mask the brown and green blotches and then airbrush the yellow lines in between. Here the first colour to go on is the brown. Then all the areas that need to remain brown are masked according to the drawing. The masking film is very flexible and can easily cover small details or go around corners. With larger details, like handles, the Notek light, the covers over the periscopes etc, which can not be covered with the masking film, you simply cut a hole in the film where the detail is situated. The
masking film can then be stuck to the hull avoiding the detail, which will then be masked with small pieces of tape or Blu-Tack. Also in areas where two pieces of masking film meet it is advisable to mask the seam with tape or Blu-Tack to avoid paint bleeding into the seam. When everything has been properly masked the green colour can be applied. Then all areas that need to remain green are also masked. Although adding the masks is quite easy it is important that you do take your time to position all masks correctly. If you work too fast and do not position the masks in the right place this will of course have consequences for the masking later on. As I was a bit hasty when adding the masks for the brown colour, the space between two brown
spots had become a bit too narrow to use the full mask for the green colour which was to go in between. A simple solution was to make the mask for the green smaller by cutting it in half and having both halves overlap each other. In case the two halves are still too wide to overlap each other you can simply remove part of the middle section. Small corrections to retain the round outer shapes of the masks can be made with the round disks that are also included in the set. When everything is masked the final coat of paint can be added. In this case the yellow mixture. Then it is time to remove the masks and check the result. If it should occur that paint did find its way under the masks, usually where the masks were not snug around details in relief, this is easily corrected
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MODEL TECHNIQUES: JAGDPANZER 38(T) CAMOUFLAGE MASKS
The Skoda scheme starts with a red brown base colour
Then everything is airbrushed green
Now all areas that need to remain green are masked off. (The right half for the BMM scheme is also masked off)
Finally everything is airbrushed yellow
This is the result after removing the masks
Imperfections occur usually around details when masks have been insufficiently pressed down and paint has subsequently bled under the masks. These small inaccuracies are easily corrected with a brush and some paint
With a brush and some paint, in this case Vallejo 984 Flat Brown, small imperfections are easily rectified
Vallejo 892 Yellow Olive was used to correct small mistakes in the green areas
The hull after correcting the mistakes
The small spots in the larger coloured areas where originally made by brush and that’s also how to do them in scale. In the brown and green areas the spots were made with a mixture of Vallejo 806 German Yellow and 919 Foundation White
with a brush and some paint. Here I used Vallejo colours - 984 Flat Brown and 892 Yellow Olive because they are easier to paint by brush. It’s not a big problem if the colour does not exactly match the airbrushed colour, as after weathering these small imperfections will no longer be visible. When all airbrushing is finished paint and brush are needed to complete the scheme by adding all the typical small spots in the larger colour blotches and stripes. Originally these small spots were done by brush as well. Yellow spots - here a mixture of Vallejo 806 German Yellow and 919 Foundation White - were painted on the brown and green blotches, while green spots - Vallejo 892 Yellow Olive - were painted on the yellow stripes. It’s best to practise making these small spots first before tackling the model itself. Although it looks like a lot of work, painting the spots actually does not take a lot of time and the model is soon ready for weathering.
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Then all areas that need to stay brown are masked. Protruding details can be masked off with some Blu-Tack. Also tape can be used to mask seams between masks
For the green spots I used 892 Yellow Olive
Although it looks like a lot of work, adding the small spots goes quickly and the camouflage is soon ready
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BMM SCHEME
The same rule about masking applies to the BMM scheme; mask those areas that involve the least amount of work. That’s why this scheme starts out with a yellow basecoat. Masking the yellow areas is very straightforward. Only the gun mantle demands a bit of extra attention. Due to the round shape it needs a little additional masking film. The pattern as shown with number 1 needs to be cut in two. One part for the bottom of the hull, and one for the gun housing. The empty space in between and the gun mantle will receive a piece of masking film from number 8. When all masks have been added, everything is airbrushed brown. After masking the areas that need to stay brown a final layer of green is added. So far for adding the basic colours. The attractive aspect of the BMM camouflage are the many small spots that cover the entire vehicle. Till now it seemed almost impossible to create these spots because it is a very demanding task. Moreover they are made in a certain pattern which makes it impossible to try and do it by hand. In reality these small spots were made with a stencil. The MXpression set contains no less than 32 copies of that stencil which makes it a lot easier to paint this complicated scheme. To get the stencils ready for painting they are first removed from the carrier. Then, to open up the small holes, the stencil is best taped to a piece of paper or the reverse of the carrier. When the stencil is then removed the small pieces of film will stick to the paper. If necessary repeat the procedure. First up is the side skirt. Reference material clearly shows how the stencil was moved from one end to the other. For variation it was
The BMM scheme is started off with a yellow base colour. The masking of the gun area needs a bit of extra attention. The mask (1) is best cut in two and divided over the hull and gun housing
An extra piece of mask (8) is supplied in the set to fill up the empty space between the two parts, including the gun mantle
The extra piece (8) is also cut in two and divided over the gun housing and gun mantle. Piece 1 and 8 overlap on the gun housing
When everything has been masked off the brown colour can be airbrushed. And after also masking that colour the green can be added. Finally we get this result
The stencils for the small spots are removed from the carrier with a pair of tweezers
Masking the side skirt is very straightforward. For the total length 11 of the 32 masks in the set are used
Then an even coat of yellow is airbrushed over the masks
This is the result after removing the masks. Nice and neat camouflage that looks like the real thing
Next up is the side of the hull. To cover the entire side of the hull the stencils applied on the side skirt need to be reused. The yellow areas are avoided and after some puzzle work the whole side is covered
All open areas between the stencils are carefully masked with tape. Also the rest of the model is masked with tape and paper to prevent any overspray
Then again a good coat of yellow is airbrushed on
The result is a jumble of small dots as on the original
This way area by area is worked on. Here the top of the hull is being masked and again the stencils are recycled. The paint on the stencils from the previous stages does not influence their flexibility or their adhesive strength
Empty spaces in between the stencils are again filled up with tape
The yellow layer of paint needs to be quite solid. If not it will be difficult to make corrections later
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MODEL TECHNIQUES: JAGDPANZER 38(T) CAMOUFLAGE MASKS
sometimes held at a 90° angle. Eleven stencils are enough to cover the entire side skirt before airbrushing a good solid coat of the yellow colour. Next is the side of the hull. Although there are no less than 32 stencils in the set, this is of course not enough to cover the entire model in one go. Therefore it is best to tackle one area at a time while recycling the stencils. Using them time and time again poses no problem as they stay flexible and sticky. For this step by step I used some stencils up to five times without any problem. Of course the paint will build up in small layers on top of the stencil, but as said, this does not influence the flexibility or the adhesive strength. One way to get the dry paint off the stencil is to cover it with tape. When carefully removing the tape it is possible to peal off the paint in one go. With the side skirt the stencils were simply put next to each other, while the hull on the other hand needs some more variation. After a bit of puzzle work the whole side is covered. Now all small openings in between the stencils need to be covered with tape. Also the small spots that are placed over a yellow area are taped off. Before doing any actual airbrushing the edges are masked off as well with tape and paper to avoid any overspray on the other areas. As before, small imperfections can be easily corrected with a brush and some paint. This procedure is repeated over and over again till the whole model is covered in yellow spots. Then all that needs to be done is add some green spots on the yellow areas.
The hull is starting to look quite busy. If necessary small imperfections can always be corrected with a brush and some paint
The round shape of the gun housing poses no problem for masking
All spaces in between are again masked off, as is the rest of the model
A solid coat of yellow is what follows
CONCLUSION
Complicated camouflage patters that before were very difficult or nearly impossible to copy are now easily and swiftly replicated in scale and offer you the opportunity to finally complete your collection with that special pattern. •
With the stencils and tape removed this is the result
All small dots have been added to the hull and gun mantle
Time to add the green dots. One single dot is enough for the side skirt The gun mantle takes two stencils
And also the hull only needs a few
Side skirt and gun mantle ready for the paint A quick overspray with green and it’s finished
Masking the rest of the model takes a little longer
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Again make sure the green is airbrushed on in a solid coat
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And here the final result. All areas are neatly covered with small dots as on the original. A very realistic, almost effortless, result
MODELSPEC Items used MXpression - MX 35001 1:35 Hetzer Skoda Ambush MXpression - MX 35002 1:35 Hetzer BMM Ambush Tamiya XF-2 Flat White, XF-3 Yellow, XF-8 Flat Blue, XF-10 Flat Brown, XF-15 Flat Flesh, XF-57 Buff, XF-58 Olive Green Vallejo 806 German Yellow, 892 Yellow Olive, 919 Foundation White, 984 Flat Brown Blu-Tack, masking tape The gun mantle ready for weathering
Reference material Ground Power No.89 - October 2001 - Delta Publishing Co. Ltd. Hetzer Jagdpanzer 38 by Vladimír Francev, Charles K. Kliment & Milan Kopecký - MBI Leichte Jagdpanzer: Entwicklung – Fertigung – Einsatz by Walter J. Spielberger, Hilary L. Doyle and Thomas L. Jentz - Motorbuch Verlag Stuttgart Availability; www.mxpression.com
The side skirt ready for weathering
The final result on the BMM side. Note how the pattern of the hull continues on the side skirt
The final result on the Skoda side. Also here note how the pattern continues from the hull onto the side skirt
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FEATURE ARTICLE: MRC 1:35 UH-1C HUEY GUNSHIP • KIT NO.12701
YOU'D RATHER CRY, I'D R The Crystal Ship – a 1967 hit for The Doors – was the name given to this particular Huey gunship, released by MRC/Academy. Andy Evans shows how to make bring this 1:35 model to life with the door gunner figures
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o me, nothing epitomises the Vietnam War like the Huey helicopter, the classic whump, whump of the rotors as another wave lands at a hot LZ to drop off or pick up troops is one of the defining images/sounds of that conflict. Generally, these helicopters were divided into two variants; the long-body 'slick' or transport aircraft; and the short-body gunships which could be fitted with all manner of weapons systems. I decided from the start that this would be an almost out of the box build, mainly because I am guilty of getting bogged down with additional detailing and aftermarket parts, usually for the project to stall before it really begins. So for me this would be a fun project that I could use to get me back into actually finishing something in a reasonable timescale. I knew I wanted to incorporate some of the flamboyant artwork that was so popular at the time and a quick search brought up a vast array of colourful nose-art. One of the schemes that caught my eye was that of 'Crystal Ship' a gunship of the 189th AHC (Assault Helicopter Company) better known as “the Avengers”. Decals for this particular aircraft are included in the Special Nose-art edition of this kit, No.12701. For me, these large-scale helicopter kits create a link between traditional aircraft modelling but with a nod to armour and the ability to add figures to the project enhances my interest further. So my idea was to pose a crew as if in flight, the co-pilot pointing out a potential target whilst one of the door gunners brings his M60 to bear.
FIGURES FIRST
D RATHER FLY...
First order of business then was to build and paint the cabin and pilot figures, and although the Academy kit comes with a crew, instead I decided to use the better detailed Dragon offering. I quickly tacked together the figure parts to check for fit and found that only one needed any real modification for the poses I wanted. The standing gunner as supplied is designed to be firing the M60D, a pintle-mounted version used only on the “slick” helicopters, so I found a suitable pair of arms to enable him to be firing a 'free' M60. A fairly common field modification was to weld a C-Ration can to the feed inlet on the M60 - this helped the ammo belt feed more smoothly - a small piece of plastic rod replicated this perfectly. All of the figures were improved by undercutting the seam and pocket detail with a scalpel blade, sharpening up the moulding considerably. My only additions were boom microphones from plastic rod and helmet visors for the door gunners. The figures were all painted using Vallejo acrylics and for flesh tones I start with a base of 804 Beige Red. To this I add a little 941 Burnt Umber for shading and then highlight by adding a little 955 to the base colour. For the Nomex fireresistant flight suits, I settled on Panzer Aces 328 Japanese Tank Crew for the base tone, highlighted with 978 Dark Yellow and shaded with 888 Olive Grey. The flight helmets of the pilots were picked out in various colours to give them that individual look and the gunners' helmets were painted with 887 Brown Violet.
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FEATURE ARTICLE: MRC 1:35 UH-1C HUEY GUNSHIP • KIT NO.12701
Test fitting of the Dragon crew figures to get the poses right
Initial painting of the cockpit area and central console
INTO THE HUEY'S CABIN
With the figures complete, I could turn my attention to the cabin, pretty much just following the kit instructions. Once together the interior was sprayed with Tamiya XF-20 to replicate the Dark Gull Grey of the original, an overall wash of Lamp Black/Raw Umber oil picking out the moulded detail. Once dry, I sprayed all inner edge and corner detail with XF-1 Black heavily thinned with IPA, creating a really pleasing soft shadow effect. The instrument panel comes as a moulded item, with unfortunately, no separate decal. No choice but to paint this then, along with the central console, in various shades of black and grey, picking out the instruments with white before adding a drop of gloss varnish to replicate the dials. With the pilot figures installed in their armoured seats, I pinned and drilled holes in the rear cabin for the door gunners to be added later and began to think about closing up the fuselage. Firstly, there is the need to add a little nose weight to avoid the kit toppling backwards on its’ skids. I used small strips of lead both under the cabin floor and in the nose to counter this. Some of the glass also needs to be fitted before the fuselage is closed, notably in the pilot doors and the overhead panels, the latter items being sprayed with Gunze Sangyo Clear Green from the inside first. I fixed all of the glazed parts with Formula 560 canopy glue thinned with water, several applications of this brushed into the joints also filled any gaps that were present.
Working up the cockpit with the pilot figures in place
LESS THAN AMAZING GLAZING
Unfortunately, the thing that lets this kit down is the clear glazing and there are two main issues here. Due to the position of the sprue gates, it is almost inevitable that there will be a stress fracture on some of these parts. Add to that the thickness of the plastic, and it is virtually impossible to have a distortion-free view into the canopy. I did my best polishing these items using various grades of micro-mesh before using Novus plastic polish for the final buff. Although not perfect, I don’t think it is too noticeable in the end but I do wish someone would produce a set of vac-form glazing for this kit. With the fuselage finally together, and my fingers firmly crossed that the pilots would stay in place, I set
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Finished cabin ready for installation
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Minor modifications to the rotor head linkages
Post fading of panels using a lightened version of the base
All masked up and ready to begin painting the base coat
Base coat of XF-62 in progress, note the plastic card jig to hold the model
Applying the Vallejo metallic tones to the rotor head, here post shaded with very thinned black
That troublesome nose decal
Main & tail rotors complete along with the skid assembly, note the fading streaks on the blades
Applying the decals over a glossy finish
Pin washes and minor streaking being applied over the satin coat using oils
about smoothing the joints whilst trying not to sand away any of the fine rivet detail. Having such a large model on my workbench was a bit awkward so I made a plastic card jig to aid in the detailing and painting process. This proved invaluable once I had worked out that trying to spray this whilst holding it by the tail like a dead fish wasn’t going to work too well. Before I set about painting the fuselage I assembled all of the rotor parts and skids ready for painting. The main rotor head is incorrect in a couple of respects; Part B5, the pitch control horn, has a U-shaped piece at the end which is incorrect for this model, it should face upwards and have a
Successfully de-masked and the pilots are still in their seats!
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FEATURE ARTICLE: MRC 1:35 UH-1C HUEY GUNSHIP • KIT NO.12701
The finished starboard door gunner, all Vallejo acrylics here
The finished heads for the door gunners; note the added mic booms and visors
WIP on the port door gunner, upper torso complete here, working from the top down
Finished weapons pylon, just need to add the flexible ammo chute
linkage which joins to part B48. I cut this off and mounted it the correct way and replaced all of the bars with plastic rod. The configuration in which it is moulded is actually for an AH-1 Cobra which lacks the upper stabiliser bar, hence the linkages go straight down, not up. If you follow the kit instructions you will also end up with a “locked” rotor, so test fit everything in step seven before committing to the glue bottle. The rotorhead was primed with gloss black in preparation for Vallejo metallic shades. I was very pleased with how these new paints sprayed and used varying shades of aluminium to pick out the details. These paints are also brushable - the consistency not dissimilar to Model Air - and a few parts were picked out in contrasting tones. For the rotor blades and the skids, I sprayed the yellow parts before masking them off for the black. Plain black is a little harsh so I mixed XF-1 black with XF-69 NATO Black as a base for the rotors and skids. Shadow was added using pure black, grey being added to provide highlighting and some streaking across the blades.
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Weapons pylons with the Live Resin ammo chutes attached, note the feed into the minigun is on the guns R/H side irrespective of which side of the aircraft it is on
MASKING UP FOR THE OD
The glazing and openings were protected using Eduard masks before the fuselage was sprayed overall with XF-62 Olive Drab. A little XF-60 was added and sprayed in the centre of panels, highlighting some edges using masking tape to control the overspray. A little post-shading was done with thinned black before the model was put aside to thoroughly dry. In preparation for the decals I coated the model with Alclad Aqua Clear Gloss, two coats being necessary to provide a smooth finish. Most of the decals settled down over the rivet detail with no problem apart from the nose art. No amount of setting solution would make this conform to the compound curve so I found I had to remove the central artwork and replaced the coffinshaped lines with decal strip. Once dry, any excess setting solution was removed with a damp cotton bud and the model was sprayed with Vallejo Satin Varnish to seal everything. I wanted to keep the weathering fairly restrained, my thinking being that these aircraft would be well maintained. All of the detail parts were painted
with acrylics, adding some forced highlights in some areas to make them more pronounced. I picked out various panels and parts with slightly differing shades of green before applying a pin wash of Raw Umber/Lamp Black oil paint in varying consistencies to enhance the rivet and panel detail, topped off with a few streaks using the same mix. A few areas of chipping were replicated with Aluminium applied using a piece of Scotchbrite. Happy with the progress so far, my attention turned to the weapons provided in the kit. Contemporary photos of this aircraft don’t show which weapon system was installed so I ended up taking an educated guess. One of the most popular combinations at the time was the M158 7-shot rocket pod paired with the M134 Minigun, collectively known as the M21 weapon system, this is one of the options available in the kit. Looking at colour photos of the rocket pods, they sometimes exhibit a burnt copper, almost rusty look and I wanted to try and replicate this somehow. The rocket pods were cleaned up and sprayed with
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Tamiya AS-12 Bare Metal first then oversprayed with a mix of XF-1 Black and XF-64 Red Brown, thinned heavily and built up in several layers letting the metallic effect show through. The miniguns were painted using Gunze Sangyo Burnt Iron with highlights picked out with lighter tones from Vallejo metallics. Because of the fragility of these parts I pinned them with brass rod into their housing, making for a stronger joint. The kit provides you with flexible ammo chutes for the miniguns, unfortunately the moulding is far from great, they are very stiff and to not take paint well at all. So, my one and only aftermarket concession here was
a set of flexible ammo chutes from Live Resin – item 35216 – these are well detailed, extremely flexible and really look the part once attached.
FINAL THOUGHTS
And with that, it was finished. I consciously tried to avoid using any aftermarket parts on this kit and instead concentrated on just building and painting it, a process I found very different from my normal routine. The difference is though, it got finished and I thoroughly enjoyed doing it. Maybe I should learn something from that for the next time. •
Door gunners in position; note the chipping to the skids
AFV Edition
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KIT PREVIEW: MIRROR MODELS MORRIS C8 QUAD MK.III AND MK.III NO.5 BODY
MORRIS DA FOR TWO
Morris C8 Quad Mk.III 'Beetleback' Mirror Models have been around for a while now and since their launch, they have upgraded the quality of their kits and packaging too. This is most evident with the newest models, which look as slick and professional as any upper-end product currently on the market. The Morris Quad is a favourite subject for many armour modellers and this new kit is a very modern take on the vehicle. Moulded over nine sprues (including one in clear), the model builds up from a significant quantity of parts, some of which are extremely small - tweezers and optical magnifiers at the ready. The main ‘bodyshell’ is a one-piece moulding and sports some impressively fine detail; in the same ballpark as Bronco and AFV Club. Flat panels such as doors and floor sections etc., are free from ejector-pin marks and no flash at all was present. The chassis (Mk.II and Mk.III can both be built form the kit) builds up element by element
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and the steering appears to be steerable, or posable at the least. A basic engine block with exhaust manifold and radiator fan is provided and the chassis-mounted winch and its pulley-wheels are all present. The cabin is fully outfitted for the crew and includes all driving controls. • MN
Modelspec; BRITISH MORRIS C8 QUAD MK.III www.mirror-models.com SCALE; 1:35 MATERIALS; IM, PE, R, WS KIT NUMBER; 35401 MiM’s opinion? A sophisticated, finely-detailed and comprehensive production, inside and out. A favourite subject too. Tricky to add that subtle but necessary weighted look to the solid vinyl tyres; DEF Model might oblige?
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DANCING, O MiM's Editor examines two new Morris C8 Quad kits from Mirror Models
Morris C8 Quad Mk.III ‘No.5 body’ Alongside the familiar ‘beetle-back’ bodied Morris C8 Quad, Mirror Models have also launched the ‘No.5’ bodied variant, which uses a more conventional-looking, truck-type body over the same chassis and powertrain. The kit features all the same refinements and high parts-count (220 plus) as its brother and comes with an additional sprue that carries the internal bulkhead, rear deck floor and the large canvas roof. The latter component is extremely well moulded and shows subtle signs of the structural ribbing that supports it. There is no fabric texture in evidence here, and quite right too, it would not be visible at this scale. Although this version looks longer than the other machine, it is in fact every bit as compact as the beetle-back, bar a couple of millimetres The overhang of the canvas top is moulded integrally along the sides and rear elevation and it looks a little too uniform in shape to properly replicate wrinkly cloth,
so the modeller might wish to apply a layer of putty so some ridges and creases can be worked into it. The tie-down rope is also moulded in and it looks spot on, no need to replace this. • MN
Modelspec; BRITISH MORRIS C8 QUAD MK.III NO.5 BODY www.mirror-models.com SCALE; 1:35 MATERIALS; IM, PE, R, WS KIT NUMBER; 35400 MiM’s opinion? An appealing second version of the Morris Quad, with boxy ‘No.5’ body. Well moulded top canvas panel but moulded-in overlap on body is a little flat.
AFV Edition
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BOOK REVIEWS PANZERWRECKS 19, YUGOLSLAVIA LEE ARCHER, BOJAN DIMITRIJEVIC, PANZERWRECKS www.panzerwrecks.com ISBN 978-1-908032-12-6 The latest Panzerwrecks title focuses on the vehicles that would have been found in the-then Yugoslavia during the Second World War and as you might imagine, it’s a pretty varied collection of machinery from different nations. This is a landscape format, soft-cover production of 100 pages (including covers) and the machinery on show includes the Somua S35 (some great ideas for Tamiya’s recent kit in here), Belgian Vickers Utility Tractor, Sturmgeschutz L6 47/32(i), Autoprotteto (armoured car) S37, RSO, Sd.Kfz.8, Littorina Blindata Mod.42 armoured train, Spah Zug armoured train, Pz.Kpfw.M14 736(i), Pz.Kpfw.L3 731(i), Munitionschlepper UE630(f), Pz.III, StuG.III, Pz.Kpfw.M15(i), Pz.KpfwT34 747(r) and even a Panther! There’s lots more to see in this latest volume and as always, TMMI recommends it wholeheartedly for fans of armour in tatters... MN
RARE WHEELS, A PICTORIAL HISTORY OF LESSER-KNOWN SOFT-SKINS 1934-45 PETR DOLEŽAL, CANFORA GRAPHIC DESIGN & PUBLISHING www.canfora.se ISBN 978-91-982325-1-6 This is an interesting new book from Swedish publishers Canfora Graphic Design and Publishing, looking at some less well known un-armoured vehicles from the Second World War period. Naturally, the subjects are largely cars and trucks pressed into military service, running from Mercedes-Benz staff cars, Czechmade Praga lorries, Citroën trucks, Matfords, Magirus and Opel Blitz’s, but also shown are some oddities such as a lovely BMW 326 car in Polish hands (with the Union Flag on its front wing!), and photos showing the SU-57 which was the American T48 GMC halftrack as used by the Russians on the Lend-Lease plan; the big v-shaped markings on the engine covers would make an interesting alternative version for a model. There are many, many more fascinating subjects here, not least the Hanomag, Krupp Bulldog and Fordson tractors in Wehrmacht and Luftwaffe ‘ownership’, but my favourites are the extraordinary-looking Schneider H-chassis’ truck whose original purpose was a refuse lorry, plus the hilarious pedal-powered Velocars being driven by German troops. A fascinating and original production. MN
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Available in the ‘HOW TO BUILD...’ series
ORDER NOW ‘How To Build The Leopard Family In 1:35’ is a comprehensive guide to modelling this famous vehicle in its many forms. From battle tanks to recovery vehicles, homeland protectors, to battle-hardened veterans, you’ll find much to enjoy and inspire within the pages of this exciting new book. Along with the work of the author, you will also find guest features from Brett Green, Marcel Jussen and John Murphy, who’s combined talents help tell the story of the seven models, including the Leopard 1A3, 2A4NL, 2A5, AEV, 2A6 and as a specially extended section, the incredible Canadian, C2 MEXAS. Each of the chapters tells the story of a model using in-depth construction and painting guides, as well as hints and tips on detailing, conversions, sculpting and figure painting. Add to that some exclusive, full-sized reference material and the reasons to add this book to your library, are there for all to see.
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ISSUE No.060 April 2016
Aircraft Edition - Brett Green AFV Edition - Marcus Nicholls Publisher; Alan Harman Graphic Design; Alex Hall Advertising Manager; Sean Leslie Office Manager; Paula Gray Administration Manager; Hannah McLaurie Administration Assistant; Julie Lane MIM Website; ADH Web Team Editors;
Military Illustrated Modeller Issue 61 - Aircraft Edition on sale 21 April 2016
RAG WING HURRICANE
Charles Whall presents Pacific Coast Models’ 1:32 early version Hurricane Mk.I
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TWIN LIGHTNING
The Editor builds Sword’s new 1:48 two-seater English Electric Lightning T.5..
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Kamil Feliks Sztarbała builds Kitty Hawk’s brand new 1:32 OS2U Kingfisher
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Roden 1:48 T-28D Trojan by David W. Aungst
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PANTHER, BUT NOT AS WE KNOW IT
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Beobachtungs (observation) Panther in 1:35
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AFV Edition
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SIGN OFF: FINAL THOUGHTS FROM THE EDITOR
In a change from our usual 'Sign Off' page, we pay tribute to a much loved and respected member of the scale modelling industry
GLYNN PEARSON, 1935 – 2016
A
fter many years of dedicated service to the model hobby industry and playing a key role in the introduction of Tamiya to the world outside of Japan, I am truly saddened to convey the news that Glynn Pearson has passed away at the age of eighty, at his home on Saturday 30th January. Glynn was a devoted and loyal member of The Hobby Company team – Tamiya’s UK importer and distribution company – and was instrumental in the establishment of the company back in 2000. He dedicated fifty years of his life to diligently, creatively and proactively working with the UK model industry, initially through the Richard Kohnstam (Riko) years and then latterly with The Hobby Company. My personal memories of Glynn are all about his kindness and cheeky sense of humour. We would see each other at the Hobby Company in Milton Keynes, UK, at the annual Nuremberg Toy Fair and the Shizuoka Hobby Show in Japan. He would greet me with a handshake and immediately ask me how my family were, always with a warm smile. I have sat down to many dinners with Glynn, the last when we were staying in the same hotel in Tokyo where we enjoyed several beers and then went on to find somewhere to eat Japanese food that wasn’t too busy. We ended up having ‘shabu-shabu’ in a small restaurant, where he regaled me with some extremely funny stories over more and more beer. A fun night indeed and one that will always bring a smile to my face when I think of him. Glynn’s passing is the end of an era and he will be hugely missed by all who knew him. Marcus Nicholls. •
At Formula 1. From the left, Mr S Tamiya, an unknown gentleman from Lotus and Glynn
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At Formula 1. From the left, Mr S Tamiya, Glynn and Bernie Ecclestone, then at Brabham
At the Tank Museum, Bovington. From the left, an unknown gentleman, Glynn and Mr S Tamiya
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NEW in the ‘HOW TO BUILD...’ series NOW AVAILABLE Order Now
NEW How to Build the Tamiya 1:32 Mosquito FB.VI The definitive guide to building the much anticipated Tamiya 1:32 Mosquito FB.VI by Brett Green. This book features a comprehensive build plus: ■ Mosquito restoration close-up ■ Historical summary ■ Wartime reference photos ■ Step by Step – Tips and techniques for building the ultimate Mosquito ■ The other Tamiya Mosquitos in 1:72 and 1:48 scales ■ Aftermarket decal and accessory summary
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