Military Illustrated Modeler - Issue 067 (2016-11)

modeller £6.50 - November’16 (issue 067)

FULL BUILDS - FMK 1:48 F-20 Tigershark • Wingnut Wings 1:32 Hannover Cl.II • AvantGarde Model Kits’ Fouga Magister and more…

military illustrated

NEW CAT

Aircraft edition

www.militaryillustratedmodeller.com

ON THE BLOCK Tamiya’s brand new 1:48 F-14A Tomcat in detail

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Contents

modeller military illustrated

ISSUE No.067 November 2016

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NEWS

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NEW CAT IN TOWN

What’s happening in modelling and aviation

Tamiya’s brand new 1:48 F-14A Tomcat by Brett Green

24 PREVIEW

Eduard 1:48 Lysander

26 A STING IN THE TAIL

Wingnut Wings’ 1:32 Hannover Cl.II by Francisco Guedes

36 HYPOTHETICAL AGGRESSOR

Freedom Model Kits 1:48 scale F-20B/N Tigershark by Kamil Feliks Sztarbala

48 SMALL BUT PERFECTLY Part One

Building Eduard’s 1:72 Spitfire Mk.IXc Late Version by Brett Green

54 MAGNIFIQUE MAGISTER

AvantGarde Model Kits 1:48 Fouga CM.170 Magister by James Hatch

65 NEXT ISSUES

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What’s coming up in the next issues of Military Illustrated Modeller

66 TAILPIECE

Tarangus 1:48 Bulldog T.1

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News NEW REVELL 1:32 ME 262 B-1A TEST SHOT BUILD

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iedrich Wiegmann has sent images of his first test shot build of Revell’s all-new forthcoming 1:32 scale Messerschmitt Me 262 B-1a night fighter. The model will include full engine detail, forward gun bays, detailed cockpit and undercarriage bays. Radu Brinzan is the designer, so that is a good sign! Diedrich reported that the build was very enjoyable. We’ll have more news about this exciting release in the next Aircraft Edition of MIM. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For details visit www.revell.de/en

SWORD NEW RELEASES IN 1:72 SCALE

Sword Models has sent Preview images and information on two new kits due for release at the end of September 2016: Thanks to Sword for the information and images http://swordmodels.cz/en/

Harrier T.Mk.2/2A/4/4N. Kit No. SW72098 4 decals options: • T.Mk.2 XW269 TB • T.Mk.2A XW933 P • T.Mk.4 XZ146 Y • T.Mk.4N ZB603 718 Kit contains colored PE parts.

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Harrier T.10/12. Kit No. SW72099 2 decals options: • T.10 ZH656/104 • T.12 ZH657/105 Kit contains 2 PUR ejections seats.

TAV-8B Harrier II. Kit No. SW72100 3 decals options: • USMC • Italy • Spain Kit contains 2 PUR ejections seats.

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FEATURE ARTICLE Tamiya 1:48 Grumman F-14A Tomcat • Kit No. 61114

N O T A C W NE Brett Green describes the contents, construction, painting and weathering of Tamiya’s brand new 1:48 scale F-14A Tomcat.

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! K C O L B E TH

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FEATURE ARTICLE Tamiya 1:48 Grumman F-14A Tomcat • Kit No. 61114

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he Grumman F-14 Tomcat is a supersonic, twin-engine, two-seat, variable-sweep wing fighter aircraft. The Tomcat was developed for the United States Navy's Naval Fighter Experimental (VFX) program following the collapse of the F-111B project. The F-14 was the first of the American teen-series fighters that was designed incorporating the experience of air combat against MiG fighters during the Vietnam War. The F-14 first flew in December 1970 and made its first deployment in 1974 with the U.S. Navy aboard USS Enterprise (CVN-65), replacing the McDonnell Douglas F-4 Phantom II. The F-14 served as the U.S. Navy's primary maritime air superiority fighter, fleet defense interceptor and tactical aerial reconnaissance platform. In the 1990s, it added the Low Altitude Navigation and Targeting Infrared for Night (LANTIRN) pod system and began performing precision ground-attack missions. In the 1980s F-14s were used as land-based interceptors by the Islamic Republic of Iran Air Force during the Iran–Iraq War, where they saw combat against Iraqi warplanes. Iranian F-14s

The nose is a separate sub-assembly with provision for folded down steps and crew ladder.

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reportedly shot down at least 160 Iraqi aircraft during the war, while only 12 to 16 Tomcats were lost; at least half of these losses were due to accidents. The Tomcat was retired from the U.S. Navy's active fleet on 22 September 2006, having been supplanted by the Boeing F/A-18E/F Super Hornet. The F-14 remains in service with the Islamic Republic of Iran Air Force, having been exported to Iran in 1976, when the U.S. had amicable diplomatic relations with Iran.*

ANOTHER TOMCAT?

Who says history never repeats? I recall back in 2002 when Tamiya revealed that they would be releasing a new-tool 1:48 scale Messerschmitt Me 262, there were howls of anguish that we didn’t need another Me 262; that the Dragon kit was perfectly good; and why didn’t Tamiya give us an (insert your personal favourite aircraft here) instead? Not surprisingly, when Tamiya’s kit was released it was better detailed, had more options and was far easier to build than Dragon’s offering.

The upper central fuselage “pancake”.

Fast forward to the end of 2002 and there were even louder complaints when Tamiya’s forthcoming 1:48 scale P-47D Thunderbolt was announced. What was wrong with the Hasegawa kit? Surely Tamiya should release an (insert your personal favourite aircraft here) instead. Of course, Tamiya’s resulting family of P-47 Thunderbolts are now acknowledged to be some of the best 1:48 scale plastic kits ever released. The same pattern repeated itself with Tamiya’s 1:48 scale Heinkel He 162 A-2 in 2006, A6M5 Zero in 2008 and the Il-2m in 2012, but once again in each case Tamiya delivered a kit with clever engineering, great detail and effortless construction - clear improvements over their predecessors. So here we are again on the same old road. Surely we don’t need a new 1:48 scale F-14A Tomcat... Or do we? Let’s see what Tamiya has up its sleeve with this latest release.

The kit supplies different wing bladder and cover parts for open and swept wing configurations.

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WHAT’S IN THE BOX?

Tamiya’s 1:48 scale F-14A Tomcat comprises 373 parts in light grey plastic (257 for the airframe plus 116 for weapons), six parts in clear plastic, five screws, two washers, four polythene caps, one masking sheet and two decal sheets. Tamiya's release represents an early production version of the F-14A without the TCS fairing under the nose. Moulding quality is perfect. Surface detail is some of the best that you will ever seen in 1:48 scale, mainly by way of very finely recessed panel lines, with some selective rivets and raised detail. The panel lines are comparable to scaleddown versions of the surface detail on Tamiya's benchmark 1:32 scale kits. Please note that the surface detail looks better in person - it is difficult for the photographs to full justice to the gorgeous panel lines on the pale coloured plastic. The complex design of the F-14A is built up around a pair of stout toothed gears for the swing wings, held securely in place with screws. This design will ensure that the swing action of both wings is synchronised. Each side of the variable sweep mechanism is moulded with a long reinforced locating tongue for the wings themselves. The variable sweep mechanism is later sandwiched between the upper and lower midfuselage sections to form the core of the model. The forward fuselage is broken down into port and starboard halves. The cockpit sub-assembly is trapped between these halves. The nose features optional position crew steps, crew ladder and a separate refuelling probe. Detail is excellent throughout. The cockpit features a blank cockpit tub with separate panels for consoles and sidewalls. Instrument panels are a combination of raised moulded detail, a clear part for the radar scope, and a number of decals for the CRT screens. The seats are well detailed, being made up from seven parts each. Two pilot figures are supplied (they have different arms and heads for individuality), but decal harness straps are also included if the crew figures are not used. Intakes and exhausts are full length with fan and flame holder detail at the ends. Tamiya supplies two open and two closed exhaust nozzles, with the instructions directing that one of each should be fitted. Wheel wells are made up from separate panels. The landing gear is well detailed and the wheels are

The flaps and slats are moulded shut, but the surface detail is magnificent.

all injection moulded plastic - no vinyl tyres here. Each wing is moulded as a simple upper and lower half with all control surfaces including flaps and slats shut. Having said that though, the hinge line detail on the upper wings is particularly well done. Once assembled, each wing simply slips over the large reinforced tongue, which is an extension of the variable sweep mechanism. Once the wings are fitted, the wing bladder and sealing plates may be installed. There are different parts supplied for wings swept forward or wings swept back, and they are designed to be fitted without adhesive so that the wing configuration may be changed even after the model is built and painted. Clear parts are thin and free from distortion. The sprues offer some protection to the canopy parts during transport too - a nice touch. The windscreen is moulded with a clear section of the upper nose, so there is virtually no risk of messy glue marks on the finished model. The comprehensive weapons sprues include AIM-7E Sparrow missiles, AIM-9G/H Sidewinders and AIM-54A Phoenix missiles. The Sidewinders are split into forward and rear sections. The sprues also appear to have the forward halves of later

Geared parts allow the wings to swing in unison.

Sidewinders too. A sheet of self-adhesive canopy masks will be included with the production kit.

MARKINGS

Markings are supplied for three aircraft: • VF-84 "Jolly Rogers" CAG Bird, 1979 (USS Nimitz) • VF-2 "Bounty Hunters", 1976 (USS Enterprise) • Islamic Republic of Iran Air Force, Tactical Fighter Base 8, 1980. A second decal sheet includes stencils, harness straps, CRT displays and markings for the weapons. Self adhesive canopy masks are included but, as usual with Tamiya 1:32 scale kits, you’ll need to cut these out yourself. The large main decal sheet with colourful markings covering three early F-14As. A separate sheet with stencil and missile markings is included too.

The windscreen is moulded with part of the upper nose to ensure a nice clean join.

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FEATURE ARTICLE Tamiya 1:48 Grumman F-14A Tomcat • Kit No. 61114

C o ckpit an d N o s e I was lucky enough to receive an early test shot of Tamiya’s 1:48 scale Tomcat prior to the release date. The model was built straight from the box. The only deviations were the use of Eduard harness straps and after-market decals. Tamiya Extra Thin Liquid Cement was used for the larger assemblies, while smaller pieces were secured with Revell Contacta cement. Tamiya masking tape and/or plastic clamps were used to hold some of the major sub-assemblies while the cement dried. As always, familiarise yourself thoroughly with the instructions before you start cutting parts from the sprues.

Next, black panels are picked out with a fine brush. I actually used Vallejo Model Color acrylic 70995 German Grey for this step.

Once the panels were painted black, they were lightly dry-brushed with a medium grey shade. Things look pretty rough at the moment, but the cockpit will look sharper after the next few steps.

COCKPIT AND NOSE

In preparing the cockpit for assembly, almost all of the parts may be painted while they are still on the sprues. This makes handling and painting parts much easier, especially smaller details.

I mixed up a wash of Tamiya XF1 Flat Black, Future Floor Polish and water. The wash was brush painted onto all the black panels. The wash flowed into the panel lines and low-lying areas creating some welcome contrast.

Now, switch, circuit breaker and button detail was picked out with Vallejo acrylic Foundation White using the tip of a toothpick. The upper sidewalls received an oil wash.

Some of the sprues were cut into smaller sections prior to painting. The sprues act as handles for the smaller parts.

The single white cockpit part was Tamiya’s decal sheet includes screens for the various sprayed, weathered and set to one side. displays. Note the decal harness straps too. This is a preproduction decal sheet. The production example does not suffer from the dot-screen effect seen here.

Decals are supplied for the top sides of the rear circuit breaker panel.

Only a few smaller pieces were cut off and glued in place before painting got underway. The base coat of Tamiya XF-19 Sky Grey has been applied to the cockpit tub and consoles while they are still on the sprues. The main radar screen and its mount are moulded in clear plastic.

After being painted and weathered, all the individual consoles, panels and bulkheads have been cut off the sprue in preparation for assembly. Note that the messy edges of some of the black panels have been tidied up with acrylic paint and a fine brush. It’s amazing the difference a coat of paint can make. The raised console detail just leaps out after the base coat has been applied.

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The pilot’s and RIO’s panels, painted, decaled and flat coated awaiting installation.

The (almost) bare cockpit tub...

...now dressed with the side consoles.

A close-up view of the pilot's cockpit...

...and the port side.

Just to prove that not even Tamiya can make a kit foolproof from a truly determined fool, I managed to apply the right side RIO’s screen decal to the back of the part! I glued the part back-to-front so that the decal would be visible.

This gives a good impression of the size of the 1:48 scale cockpit.

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FEATURE ARTICLE Tamiya 1:48 Grumman F-14A Tomcat • Kit No. 61114

The white parts were treated to a wash of Zippo lighter fluid mixed with Raw Umber oil paint. The lighter fluid dries very quickly.

Moving right along, we now start work on the front landing gear. Once again, parts may be painted on the sprue. In fact, Sprue G may be sprayed white in its entirety as it exclusively contains intake, undercarriage bay, door and leg parts. I hit this sprue with Tamiya White Primer straight from the spray can.

The nose gear bay is made up from separate panels glued to the ceiling and to each other.

Tamiya offers the option of an open or closed refuelling probe. I chose to close mine.

The gun and vent panel is supplied as a separate piece...

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I wasn’t particularly happy with the wash effect on the nose gear bay ceiling. Next time I’ll spend a bit more time with a Future, water and paint mix. These are the components of the nose wheel bay, which also serves as a sturdy mount for the cockpit tub.

The cockpit glued in place.

The cockpit and nose wheel bay is held in precise position with a series of stout circular locating points on both sides of the nose.

...which, naturally, fits perfectly!

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The upper fuselage sidewalls were masked and painted black.

The cockpit / nose gear bay assembly was glued to the starboard nose half.

A view from below.

The port nose half has now been glued in place.

Before attaching the port nose half, I masked the areas around the pilot's steps and sprayed them white. This reduced the risk of overspray if I had painted it after assembly.

Check out the fit of the nose halves and of the panel forward of the undercarriage bay - perfect! Cockpit coaming has been sprayed black and glued in place.

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FEATURE ARTICLE Tamiya 1:48 Grumman F-14A Tomcat • Kit No. 61114

Mai n A irfra m e Engineering of the main airframe, the swing wings and the undercarriage is clever and overall fit is superb. From this point on I generally followed the instructions but there were a few exceptions and notes that I will summarise up-front: • Nose weight is not mentioned in the instructions. It is not required. I tested the almost-complete model with undercarriage legs and wheels clicked into place. The nose wheel remained securely on the ground with the wings swept forward and also with the wings swept back. • In Step 13, I added a spot of super glue to each polythene cap inside Parts B8 and B9. This stops the poly caps from moving inside the housings, and allows the horizontal stabilisers to hold any pose but still remain moveable. • In Step 14, there is a small step at the V-shaped join between the upper forward and rear fuselage sections. This is supposed to be there, so don't try to fill it! • You don't have to glue the wings in place in Step 21. I left the wings off, which makes painting much easier. If you choose to glue the wings in place, you can do this at the very end. • Instructions would have you fit the undercarriage legs and doors in Steps 27 and 28. I recommend that these should only be fitted after the model is otherwise complete. The fit of the gear legs is excellent, so you'll have no troube fitting the painted and weathering undercarriage at the end. • Similar to the wings, you don't need to fit the horizontal stabilisers in Step 29. Paint them separately and add them when the model is finished. • In Step 35, delay fitting the missiles until the model is completed and painted.

These are screwed in tight.

The second geared wing mount is also screwed in place. If the gears are not properly meshed at this stage don't worry - you can still adjust them any time before the lower fuselage is glued.

The swing wing mechanism is screwed in place undeneath a cruciform saddle. Note that I painted and weathered the areas that would be seen through the open wheel wells before adding the swing wing mechanism.

The intake ramps are designed to be posed open. They are made up from three parts each.

Don’t forget to drill out the holes for your choice of weapons. The instructions offer three different configurations.

The swing wing mechanism is held in place with screws and washers.

The lower rear fuselage section as viewed from below. I painted the main wheel bay white before proceeding further.

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The sidewalls for the main wheel bays are made up from four separate parts. These were all painted and weathered while they were still on the sprues.

The four sections interlock perfectly.

The completed sidewall assemblies are glued to the inside of the lower fuselage.

The horizontal stabilisers are poseable thanks to the use of polythene caps. Following test-fitting, I thought that the fit was a bit loose as the poly cap moved freely inside its housing. I applied a spot of super glue to the outside of both polythene caps, which effectively locked them in place. This delivered a firm press fit for the horizontal stabilisers, but still allowed The poly cap and its housing glued in place. them to move.

The upper forward and rear main fuselage sections ready to be brought together.

The upper and lower halves have been joined here.

A small wedge of plastic has to be sliced from the upper fuselage on either side of the burner cans. A sign of things to come perhaps?

The two upper fuselage sub-assemblies are joined using interleaving locating tabs. There is a slight step at this join but don’t worry - it is supposed to be there!

A view of the inside of the upper fuselage, including the completed swing wing mechanism.

A view of the assembled main fuselage section from below. I used tape and clamps to hold the main pieces in place as the glue set.

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FEATURE ARTICLE Tamiya 1:48 Grumman F-14A Tomcat • Kit No. 61114

Once again, most of the exhaust and intake parts were painted and weathered while they were still on the sprues.

Intake and fan parts.

Tamiya helpfully labels the intake assemblies R and L for Right and Left.

The white painted intake ramps were masked at this stage. This was easier than fiddling inside the intakes later on!

The main fuselage section, upper view.

The nose and main fuselage are ready to be brought together.

Fit between the nose and the main fuselage pancake is flawless.

The intakes fitted well after being pressed firmly in place. Irwin clamps were used to keep the pressure on as the glue set.

The nose undercarriage bay and lower nose panel...

...which, naturally, fits perfectly!

The horizontal stabilisers are made up from two parts each and are held in place with polythene caps.

A view from above. Pylons and tanks for Weapons Option III in the instructions.

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The wings and horizontal stabilisers are being test fitted here but will be removed for painting.

Painted nose undercarriage parts awaiting assembly.

The completed main and nose undercarriage legs. I re-painted and re-weathered these later on.

Exhaust parts painted and awaiting assembly.

The cockpit is about to be sealed up temporarily for painting. The pilot's instrument coaming is in place.

Undercarriage bays and burner cans have been masked with Tamiya tape.

I used a chunk of styrofoam to hold the missiles while painting them with Tamiya White Primer, straight from the spray can.

The windscreen is moulded with a section of the upper nose. The windscreen has been masked here in preparation for painting.

The fit of the windscreen is perfect.

One more test-fit of the wings and horizontal stabilisers. I haven’t fitted the small avionics parts yet. AIR Edition

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FEATURE ARTICLE Tamiya 1:48 Grumman F-14A Tomcat • Kit No. 61114

Pai nting and Ma rk i ngs

The canopy has been masked in preparation for painting. I used Tamiya tape as my pre-production test shot did not include the self-adhesive masks.

Painting, weathering, decaling and finishing touches took considerably longer than construction, but it was a very enjoyable journey. I have always wanted to build a Jolly Rogers Tomcat in a grubby low-viz grey scheme; specifically an F-14B or F-14D from VF-103. I have a couple of Hasegawa kits in my collection but, wary of its thorny reputation, I had never mustered the courage to start one. When the Tamiya 1:48 scale kit arrived, it finally seemed to be my chance to work on a dirty grey Tomcat. However, I wanted to build this one pretty much straight from the box so I resisted the temptation to convert it to a late A or a B model. That limited my marking choices, but I did find decals for a low-viz grey VF-84 Jolly Rogers F-14A in the early configuration of the Tamiya kit on Furball Aero Design's decal sheet no. 48036, "F-14 Air Wing All-Stars Part Two". This Tomcat was based on USS Nimitz in 1984. I ordered a set of the decals online from the UK and waited. I didn't cool my heels though, as there was a lot of painting and weathering to be done. The main camouflage paints are Tamiya's AS-26 Light Ghost Grey and AS-25 Dark Ghost Grey, applied first from the spray can for the main upper and lower base coats, then decanted and mixed together and with white to create different shades for the patchy finish. A thin mix of Tamiya XF-1 Flat Black and XF-64 Red Brown acrylic was sprayed in patches, lines and mottles to represent general grime. Gunze-Sangyo acrylic Light Gull Grey was also used for the lower missile rails and for fresh repairs. By the time the decals arrived the model was already painted and glossed, so I got to work straight away. The Furball decals performed well over the glossy Future finish. Kit decals - lots of them - were used for the missiles.

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The under fuselage rocket rails were painted Light Gull Grey and masked with Tamiya tape.

Before anything else, canopy framing was sprayed black.

The entire model was sprayed with Tamiya’s AS-26 Light Ghost Grey straight from the spray can. This tough lacquer paint also acts as a primer.

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Wings and tail planes were sprayed separately, Blu-Tacked to a box. Next, AS-25 Dark Ghost Grey, AS-26 Light Ghost Grey and Tamiya’s White Primer were decanted into glass jars. The upper surfaces were sprayed in Dark Ghost Grey…

…then the entire aircraft was mottled with a number of mixes based on the three main colours.

The swing-wing mechanism typically left dirty curved marks on the wings. I drew the basic curves of the stains with a brown Prismacolor pencil by attaching the wing and swinging it with the pencil fixed in one position. The stains were then outlined and layered with a heavily thinned mix of Tamiya XF-1 Flat Black and XF-64 Red Brown applied by airbrush.

The same mix was used to add general grime to the entire airframe.

‘I have always wanted to build a Jolly Rogers Tomcat in a grubby low-viz grey scheme...’

I went a bit overboard in places. These areas were toned down with a fine sanding stick and Micro Mesh sanding cloths.

The two sets of swing wing bladders and covers were painted and weathered separately.

I managed to break off the long locating pins for the horizontal stabilisers so I replaced them with brass tube. This was more robust and still allowed the stabs to be moveable. The grubby effect is taking shape now.

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FEATURE ARTICLE Tamiya 1:48 Grumman F-14A Tomcat • Kit No. 61114

Painting up the kit’s multi-part seat.

The straps assembled… Tamiya does supply decal harness straps but I had Eduard’s lovely fabric and photo-etched F-14A Seatbelts set on hand. I couldn’t resist using these!

…and added to the kit seats.

The weapons were assembled, painted and the many kit decals applied. They look very impressive and the time required to add the decals is well worthwhile.

Undercarriage and door parts ready for installation.

Furball Design’s decals have been applied over two coats of Future Floor Polish. Panel lines have been subtly highlighted with a mix of water, Future and acrylic “scale black” too.

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Bare Metal Foil Matte Aluminium was applied to the leading edges of the wings.

Weapons, undercarriage and doors in place.

The seats have been fitted to the busy cockpit.

The kit’s plastic wheels, painted and weathered with Tamiya’s Weathering Master - Weathering Pastels Parts A.

The bladder parts may be swapped over to allow the wings to be posed swept forward or back. First, the wings must be swept forward. Next, the rear glove bladder parts are fitted to the fuselage.

The forward cover is now slipped into place and pressed forward.

Both parts in place.

The wing may now be pushed into the swept back position. AIR Edition

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FEATURE ARTICLE Tamiya 1:48 Grumman F-14A Tomcat • Kit No. 61114

CONCLUSION

This 1:48 scale F-14A Tomcat continues Tamiya's proud tradition of accurate, well-detailed, thoughtfully designed and modeller friendly kits. Surface textures are beautifully restrained and the design of the swinging wings with their separate wing gloves is very clever. All this is impressive enough, but the best part of the kit is in the building. Fit is perfect throughout, and I found myself grinning like a loon during several construction steps due to the sheer ingenuity of the parts breakdown and assembly sequence. This is a model that should not be left in the box for long. It deserves to be built. Tamiya's 1:48 scale F-14A Tomcat now ranks as my Kit of the Year. •

Burner cans were finished using Gunze and Testor Metalizer paints.

The completed model with the wings swept back...

…and the wings swept forward!

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MODELSPEC Tamiya 1:48 scale Ilyushin Il-2 Shturmovik. Kit No. 61113 Accessories Used: Eduard Item No. 49069 – F-14A Seat Belts FABRIC Furball Aero Design’s decal sheet no. 48036, “F-14 Air Wing AllStars Part Two”. Bare Metal Foil – Matte Aluminum Check out the beautiful fit of the windscreen part.

Tools and Modelling Products Used: Tamiya Extra Thin Liquid Cement Revell Contacta Cement Selley’s Super Glue Zip Kicker (super glue accelerator) Olfa Knife Model K B Tamiya Tape – 6mm, 10mm and 18mm Blu Tack Post-It Notes Irwin Clamps Paints and Finishing Products Used: Tamiya Spray Cans: Fine White Primer; As-25 Dark Ghost Grey; AS-26 Light Ghost Grey Tamiya (acrylic): X-18 Semi-Gloss Black; X-25 Clear Green; X-27 Clear Red; XF-1 Flat Black; XF-2 Flat White; XF-63 German Grey; XF-64 Red Brown. Tamiya Weathering Master - Weathering Pastels Parts A. Mr Hobby Mr Color Leveling Thinner 400. Vallejo Model Color (acrylic): 865 Oily Steel; 891 Intermediate Green; 919 Foundation White; 70953 Flat Yellow; 70957 Flat Red; 963 Medium Blue; Vallejo Panzer Aces (acrylic): 337 Highlight Ger. (Black) Alclad II Flat Clear Lacquer Finish Gunze Mr Metal Color (lacquer): 211 Chrome Silver; 214 Dark Iron; 217 Gold; 217 Brass Solvaset decal setting solution Future Floor Polish Superb fit; excellent surface detail; high level of detail; brilliant engineering; useful options.

Tamiya’s 1:48 scale Tomcat is nothing short of magnificent, capturing the menacing stance of the rear thing.

Nothing worth mentioning. Rating: 9.5 out of 10 Thanks to Tamiya for the sample www.tamiya.com Tamiya kits are distributed in the UK by The Hobby Company Limited www.hobbyco.net

Tomcat in profile.

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KIT PREVIEW Eduard 1:48 Lysander Mk.III Weekend Edition • Kit No. 8290

The Editor takes a look at an old favourite in a new box – Eduard’s ProfiPACK 1:48 scale Lysander.

Stringer detail on the fuselage.

Internal frame detail.

BEHIND ENEMY LINES T he Westland Lysander was a British army co-operation and liaison aircraft produced by Westland Aircraft used immediately before and during the Second World War. After becoming obsolete in the army co-operation role, the aircraft's exceptional short-field performance enabled clandestine missions using small, unprepared airstrips behind enemy lines to place or recover agents, particularly in occupied France with the help of the French Resistance. Gavia, a brand associated with Eduard, first released this Lysander back in 2001. This undoubtedly places it in an earlier generation but it has stood the test of time well. Eduard's 1:48 scale Lysander Mk.III comprises 96 pieces in medium grey plastic, seven parts in clear, a colour photo-etched fret, a self-adhesive die cut masking sheet plus five marking options in this ProfiPACK Edition. Despite its vintage, the sprues have held up very well with no hint of flash. This time around the model is moulded in the medium grey plastic that we find in the latest generation of Eduard kits. I know it's just a colour (well, a shade really), but to my eye it makes the sprues look more up to date. Construction commences with the cockpit, which is built up inside a separate framework representing the tubular structure of the original. The cockpit receives a detail boost from coloured photo-etched parts for the instrument panel., harness straps, radios and more. This boxing also includes an optional extra fuel tank inside the cockpit. This is relevant for SOE missions undertaken by 161 (SD) Squadron. There are two marking options for this fascinating unit. The engine is made up from separate cylinders around the central core with exhaust manifolds moulded as one piece for the rear. The instructions advise the modeller to cut the nine push rods from 0.6mm plastic rod. The rear canopy sliding section may be posed open or closed, while there is the option to cut the pilot's window open too.

The wings are supplied as upper and lower left and right halves. The fabric surfaces are represented by subtle scalloping and raised stringers. This is moulded onto the fuselage, wings and the elevators. On the original Gavia kit, there was a problem with the fit of the wing struts but Eduard has relocated the locating holes on the underside of the wings to correct this issue. Eduard also offers the option of external centreline tank / stowage plus the fixed ladder used by 161 (SD) Squadron. Canopy masks are included, which are even more welcome than usual with the relatively complex glasshouse frame arrangement of the Lysander canopy.

Shiny shiny plastic!

MARKINGS

Markings are supplied for five Lysander Mk.IIIs: • Lysander Mk.III SCW, V9287, No. 161 (SD) Squadron RAF, air base Tempsford, 1942 • Lysander Mk.III SCW, V9367, No. 161 (SD) Squadron RAF, air base Tempsford, 1944 • Lysander Mk.IIIA, V9374, No. 613 Squadron RAF, Britain, 1941 • Lysander Mk.IIIA, V9437, No. 309 Squadron RAF, air eld Dunino, Skotsko, 1942 • Lysander Mk.III, T1429, No. 26 Squadron RAF, air base Gatwick, 1940/41 The decals have been produced by Eduard. Printing, colours and registration is perfect on my sample. Eduard's 1:48 scale Lysander dates from 2001 and therefore represents a different generation of tooling and detail compared to recent releases. Even so, Eduard's 1:48 scale Lysander is still the best kit of the type and stands up to scrutiny very well today, especially with the inclusion of photo-etched detail parts, plus masks to deal with that pesky glasshouse canopy! Definitely Still Recommended. • Thanks to Eduard for the sample www.eduard.cz

This boxing includes parts for operations in occupied France.

Clear parts.

The coloured photo-etched fret.

Five schemes are offered.

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The large colourful decal sheet.

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FEATURE ARTICLE Wingnut Wings 1:32 Hannover Cl. II • Kit No. 32024

A STING IN THE TAIL

Francisco Guedes builds Wingnut Wings’ 1:32 scale Hannover Cl.II escort fighter.

T

he Hannover CL.II was an escort fighter, produced in Germany during World War I, designed in response to a 1917 requirement by the Idflieg for such a machine to protect reconnaissance aircraft over enemy territory. It was a compact biplane of largely conventional configuration with single-bay staggered wings of unequal span. The fuselage was a thin plywood panelled, wooden monocoque design, very similar to the style of fuselage in Robert Thelen's Albatros series of single-seat fighters. The main units of the fixed tailskid undercarriage were linked by a cross-axle, and the pilot and tail gunner sat in tandem, open cockpits, with the gunner's cockpit elevated above the line of the upper fuselage to afford him a greater field of fire. For the same purpose, the aircraft featured an unusually compact empennage, with a short fin and a biplane tail unit that allowed the rear gunner to have a larger aft field fire when defending the aircraft. Smaller than the usual C-class reconnaissance aircraft, it was easy for enemy pilots to mistake it for a single-seat fighter; a mistake that would bring them into the line of fire of the tail gun when closing from astern.*

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CONSTRUCTION

As is usual with most aircraft model kits, and Wingnut Wings kits are no exception, I started this beautiful model in the cockpit. After removing the parts from the sprues and cleaning them up, I sprayed a good layer of Vallejo grey primer over them. I now paint the cockpit floor, wall and instrument board with Gunze Flesh. I did not follow the Wingnut Wings paint guide because I was going to apply oils to the wall, and Uschi woodgrain decals on the floor and instrument boards. Theses would ultimately change that base colour darker at the end of this process, so applying a dark colour as the base would result in the cockpit being too dark. So, to get a desirable effect, a lighter colour is needed. Before painting, I created a series of templates with wide Tesa masking tape, and these shapes would be transferred to the Uschi decals. So, using Gunze Flesh and Tamiya Dark Yellow, all wooden parts were painted using an airbrush, in thin layers, but not in a uniform way, so as to create some natural “pre-shading”. After this, and in preparation for the Uschi decals, a very thin layer of black was airbrushed around the panel joint lines. After this, using the templates I had just made, I cut the wood decals to the desired size and applied them. I used lots of water to get them into their exact

The floor and instrument boards were painted in a base coat.

position. Be very careful in handling these decals, as they are quite fragile. Once in place, I used a little micro-sol, and let them dry for 24 hours. After they were fully dry, I applied quite a generous layer of semi-matt varnish (in several thin layers), to prepare the surface for the oils. I use raw sienna and shadow Brown oils (Amsterdam and MIG productions), and thin them using MIG Productions Odorless Turpentine, and dragging them with a large and

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open brush in order to create a natural wood appearance. To seal this and create some warmth, Tamiya Clear Yellow is airbrushed over the top. For the cockpit walls, I use a different technique. After initial painting, I simply add some oil dots (of the same colour) and then drag them with a small sponge. I repeat the process until I`m satisfied with the result. Whilst this was drying, I painted the fuel tank in aluminium, as I wanted to represent it with some paint chipping. I also painted all other cockpit parts, such as the rudder pedals, metal fittings, seat braces and control column, with Tamiya and Vallejo paints. For the fuel tank, I used Vallejo Aluminium (Model Air). Afterwards, I use the hairspray technique, literally applying hairspray with my airbrush and ten minutes later, applying XF-22. Five minutes after this, using both flat and medium brushes, I start rubbing off the paint, using lots of water, and patience. After getting the result that I wanted, I used a light application of dark wash, to enhance the chipping a little more. I then seal everything with flat varnish, and paint all the other fuel tank details with Vallejo acrylics. The seat was painted with Red Brown Shadow, and then dry bushed with Panzer Aces 312 (Leather seat). I wasn’t entirely pleased with the result, so next time I will try out the new leather decals from Uschi van der Rosten. The interior rigging on the Hannover is almost unseen after closing, but I still need to add it, so I need to pre-drill the location points.

For the cockpit sidewalls, oil dots were dragged with a small sponge until I was happy with the effect.

FRONT MACHINE GUN

The front Spandau needed to be made and installed before closing the fuselage. If you close it beforehand, I think it’s impossible to then add this item. I used the photo-etch parts supplied in the box, to make the barrel. (P14). WNW photo-etch parts are quite hard to manage if you don’t anneal them. So to do this, I simply light a candle and anneal the PE in the hottest part of the flame, and then place the PE in water. This makes the PE very malleable and also easy to bend into the correct shape.

Mig Acrylic Color was used for smaller parts.

The woodgrain texture is outstanding.

The pre-shading shows subtly through the Uschi woodgrain decal.

The effect is very obvious here!

Parts that would receive Uschi woodgrain decals were repainted in a base coat of Gunze Flesh and Tamiya Dark Yellow, then pre-shaded with a thin layer of black. Base coat and pre-shading complete.

After the decals were fully dry, I applied quite a generous coat of semi-matt varnish to prepare the surface for the oils.

The decals were cut to shape before application.

Thinned oil paints were drawn over the decaled surfaces, followed by Tamiya Clear Yellow over the top when the oils had dried.

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FEATURE ARTICLE Wingnut Wings 1:32 Hannover Cl. II • Kit No. 32024

The Small Shop “Wrangler” is a great help for forming the small photo-etched parts.

COCKPIT PART II AND FUSELAGE

All other cockpit details such as the Telefunken Type D wireless, Parabellum magazines, and large Flieger Kammer, were painted with Vallejo and Tamiya colours. For the seatbelts, I used the same procedure as for the Spandau PE. After fitting the belts, I painted them with the colours given by WNW references and with some washes to highlight the details. The cockpit decals went on very well, but they are quite small, and some care must be taken in handling them. As with all WNW decals. they settle down with no major problem. The camera mounting leg locating holes in the floor, had to be drilled out to allow the legs to fit into them properly, so pay attention to that and remember to pre-drill it before any further assembly. With everything in place, all parts are now airbrushed with Vallejo Satin clear coat, and the fuselage then closed up. This particular task is always a tricky one, not because Wingnut Wings have a poor fit, but precisely the opposite. Wingnut Wings kits have very tight tolerances with regards to parts fit, so they are very precise, and everything that is in the way can disturb the fit. If any paint is on a glue joint, then it really needs to be removed, or you should have the foresight to mask these areas prior to painting. The fuselage went together quite well with no major gaps. I only needed to add a little putty to the top of the fuselage to eradicate a small gap. The cockpit section fit smoothly within the fuselage halves! Perfect WNW!

The cockpit front firewall with details carefully brush painted.

The cockpit sub-assembly.

Cockpit and fuselage components are nearly ready to assemble.

Here, detail parts and decals have been added to the starboard sidewall.

ENGINE

Whilst building the engine, I didn’t add any aftermarket or scratch-build work except for some copper wires (0.13mm electrical wires) for the magnetos. The Argus engine is extremely well detailed, even the valve springs are beautifully moulded. To add some volume, I painted the engine with several Aluminum Alclad shades (white, dull and duraluminium). NATO Black was used to paint the cylinders with the pushrods. The pushrods themselves were painted with Model Master Steel. I decided to paint the carburettor intakes, radiator water pipes and exhaust in white, whilst trying to create a warm and used appearance. I again used the hairspray technique with the aluminium and white. After chipping, a light pin-wash of light and standard rust from MIG Productions, was applied. To finalize, I used a number of weathering pastels from Tamiya’s weathering sets (white and smoke).

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The cockpit with the rear section and front firewall in place.

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Cockpit details such as the Telefunken Type D wireless, Parabellum magazines, and large Flieger Kammer, were painted with Vallejo and Tamiya colours.

The cockpit decals went on very well, but they are quite small, and some care must be taken in handling them.

The propeller was prepared with a base coat of Tamiya XF-60 Dark Yellow.

Some copper wires (0.13mm electrical wires) were added to the engine for the magnetos. To add some volume, I painted the engine with several Aluminum Alclad shades (white, dull and duraluminium).

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FEATURE ARTICLE Wingnut Wings 1:32 Hannover Cl. II • Kit No. 32024

The cockpit was sealed between the fuselage halves.

The upper mid wing section was primed with acrylic black from Ammo by Mig Jiminez. After a coat of silver, followed by MIG’s Absolute Chipping liquid, the small hatches were painted Tamiya XF-76 Grey Green. These were then chipped to sow some of the metallic colour beneath.

On the engine hatch, there are a few ejection pin marks that you will have to fill in if you want to leave the engine panels open. I simply fill these in with White Putty (Squadron) and then sand with some fine paper, lubricated with a little water. For the engines bearers, I used Vallejo Weather Wood (Panzer Aces 310) as the base colour, and then with the same oil colours and sponge, I apply the wood effects. After using the sponge, I finish the wood with a dry brush.

PAINT

Wings were aligned using a homemade jig. Note the Tamiya tape masking the rib tapes.

Rib tapes have now been shaded and highlighted.

WNW’s decals are printed by Cartograf, and they are excellent. This means that they apply very easily.

The subtle weathering was achieved using streaking products from AK and pastels from the Tamiya Weathering set in several layers, a little at a time.

I decided to paint the colour scheme ‘E’, in the Wingnut instruction booklet. This is Hannover Cl.II (Rol) 690/18, late 1918. This particular scheme was believed to be from the training unit FEA.8. The paint colour is a very light blue, and I used the Tamiya colours that WNW suggested. I must confess that I hate mixing colours, and unfortunately for me, by the time I painted this model, Drooling Bulldog hadn’t yet released their light blue, which would have been perfect. I painted the fuselage, wings and tail, all before final assembly. All the mating surfaces were masked to prevent bad fitting. I painted the base colour after a coat of grey Vallejo primer, applied in thin layers. After that, I darken the base colour a little, helping create a very subtle paint effect on the fuselage. For the wings and tail, after the light blue application, the rib tapes were masked off and a very thin layer of Tamiya smoke was passed over those rib tapes. The central wing was painted in white using the Drooling Bulldog color. The subtle weathering was achieved using streaking products from AK, and pastels from the Tamiya Weathering set, and in several layers, a little at a time so as not to overdo the effect. The radiator and fuel tank were painted with acrylics, using an airbrush. Whilst the radiator was painted on the sprue, the fuel tank was airbrushed after careful pre-masking and trimming.

DECALS

The model was given an overall fine coat of satin varnish (Vallejo) to prepare it for the decals. WNW’s decals are printed by Cartograf, and they are excellent. This means that they apply very easily. Soak them in warm water for about 30-45 seconds and once in place, use a hairdryer and a cotton bud. I remove the excess water from underneath the decal first, and then apply heat to the decal, conforming the decal precisely to the surface and rib tape details. After a little Micro Sol, I usually let them sit for at least 24hrs. After a sealing coat of satin varnish, a little weathering is applied. I only want to do subtle weathering

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Eyelets and brass pipe for rigging detail.

The starboard side of the completed engine…

…and the port side.

because the photo on the WNW site shows a quite clean aircraft. It was a training aircraft, so it probably was well looked after. A little Tamiya Buff, heavily thinned and applied at low pressure, created some dirt effects on the undersides. After also adding a few splash effects, I used AK dust enamel, with a little pigment, and with an old brush, just pull the fingers on the brush, so it flicks the contents over the model. On the upper sides, I applied some Tamiya Smoke, and I use Tamiya pastels in a subtle way, so as not to overdo anything.

RIGGING

The next step was preparing to do the rigging. All rig holes were pre-drilled before painting. Now is time for Bob Buckles and some home-made turnbuckles to be fitted into position, and glued with superglue. The next step is to fit the upper wing. The bottom wings helps this to fit perfectly, as the cabane struts give us the correct angle for easy fitting of the top wing. All the struts just fell into the holes on the top wing, including the water pipe from the engine, that fitted perfectly into the wing radiator. It would be quite easy from this point, if I didn’t now have to add all the wires to the upper wing! Without rigging, it would be quite an easy and simply task to complete a model of this genre! However, WNW gives us everything we need for the rigging stage to be easy. Just keep calm and divide the task into sections, preferably so you don’t have to handle the model too much. I start with the left wing… then I pass to the central wing area… then onto right wing. I use EZ-Line and 0.5mm micro brass tube from Albion Alloys, for the turnbuckle body, cut to 3mm length, and cut with a brand new blade and a homemade jig. I tried to use micro tube from E.T. Model, but it simply didn’t work. The Albion Alloys tube gave me no trouble at all. The undercarriage was now painted, and details and rigging added, before fitting to the fuselage.

On the upper sides, I applied some Tamiya Smoke and I used Tamiya pastels in a subtle way so as not to overdo anything.

The wheels were weathered with a selection of filters and effects.

The lovely Spandau barrels from Master’s Air Master Series.

FINAL DETAILS

For final details, I added the propeller (which I painted in the same manner as that of the interior), the generator for the wireless on the undercarriage, and the anemometer. I now started to make a small base for the model. For the base I got a picture frame, Styrofoam, and some Modelscene and Mininatur vegetation. All the details are from the kit box, such as the ladder, trestle, bear, and the flare gun. The Parabellum LMG 14/17 is a mix of the kit parts and the aftermarket set from Master Models, and is a really value addition to the work as it is it is such a fantastic item. •

The metallic parts were treated to a bath in Uschi’s Blackening Agent.

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FEATURE ARTICLE Wingnut Wings 1:32 Hannover Cl. II • Kit No. 32024

For the base, I sourced a picture frame, Styrofoam, plus some Modelscene and Mininatur vegetation.

Details are from the kit.

MODELSPEC Wingnut Wings 1:32 Hannover Cl. II

Kit No. 32024

Paints and Weathering Materials Used: Vallejo Aluminium Vallejo Weather Wood (Panzer aces 310) Vallejo Leather (Panzer Aces 312) Alclad White Aluminium Alclad Dull Aluminium Alclad DuraAluminium ModelMaster Steel Drooling Bulldog White Tamiya Buff Tamiya Clear Yellow Tamiya Smoke Tamiya Red Brown Gunze Flesh Mr Levelling Thinner and Mr Thinners (MRP) Uschi van der Rosten Wood Grain Decal Tamiya Weathering sets AK Interactive Streaking products Squadron sticks Brand New scalpel Tamiya extra thin glue White Putty squadron EZ-Line ModelScene and Miniatur vegetation Model Master LM G 14/17 set

Weathering on the lower tail surfaces.

Lower surface detail.

References: Hannover Cl. III , Windsock Datafile 23, PM Grosz 1990 Another fantastic model kit form WNW. The fit is almost perfect, with excellent parts alignment, making this biplane a real joy to build. Maybe even suitable for a near novice modeler. Very tight fit in all main parts, so do not paint the joint areas. Rating: 9.5 out of 10 * Historical summary courtesy of Wikipedia https://en.wikipedia. org/wiki/Hannover_CL.II Wingnut Wings kits are available from www.wingnutwings.com The completed model on its base.

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The Parabellum LMG 14/17 is a mix of the kit parts and the aftermarket set from Master Models.

The ladder and the teddy bear are both included in the Wingnut Wings kit.

“Smaller than the usual C-class reconnaissance aircraft, it was easy for enemy pilots to mistake it for a single-seat fighter...”

This is another beautiful kit from Wingnut Wings.

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We have teamed up with our friends at Model Craft so we can offer you a special gift for subscribing with us for 24 issues. There are one of two gift options to choose from and these Model Craft tool sets are perfect for modellers at all skill levels, whether you have just started modelling or you just need to replenish the stocks! This offer is available to both NEW and EXISTING subscribers. If you are an existing subscriber, we will simply extend your current subscription for a further 24 issues, so do not wait until your subscription runs out, RENEW TODAY while stocks last! MODEL CRAFT OPTION 1 15 Piece Craft & Model Tool Set A 15-piece tool set that has everything you need for craft, model making, repairing and small general tasks. The A5 size self-healing mat is a perfect addition as it ensures no cracking or warping when using the blades, preventing any cutting errors and preserves the life of blades! Includes: • 1 x Side cutter • 1 x Snipe nose Plier • 1 x Modellers knife with no.11 Blade • 5 x no. 11 spare blades • 1x Flat hobby file • 1x Flat end tweezers • 1x Bent nose tweezer • 2 x Grip clamps: 2 x 2" (50mm) • 1x Grip clamps: 1 x 3" (75mm) • 1 x A5 size self-healing cutting mat

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FEATURE ARTICLE Freedom Model Kits 1:48 scale F-20B/N Tigershark • Kit No.18003

HYP

OTH

ETIC

Kami l fighte Feliks Szta r 1:48 s that nev rbala build er scale s by Fr went into the twin-s eedom ea pr Mode oduction – t version o l Kits. f the F20B/ one of the N Tig ersha best rk in

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reedom Model Kits broke into the model market in spring of 2014. Their debut release, a 1:48 scale X-47B UCAV kit, received a warm reception from the community, but we had to wait more than a year for another product from this promising Taiwanese company. However, we were rewarded with a whole series of kits that depict different versions of an aircraft considered to be one of the best fighters that never went into production, namely the Northrop F-20 Tigershark. This series also included a model of the twin-seat fighter/trainer variant, called F-20B, which actually belongs to the ‘what if’ category.

OR

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FEATURE ARTICLE Freedom Model Kits 1:48 scale F-20B/N Tigershark • Kit No.18003

IN THE BOX - ASSEMBLY The box is adorned with really nice artwork that should attract many potential customers and rather tightly filled with plastic sprues, moulded in light grey styrene. All this makes a good first impression. The black and white assembly guide is easy to understand, although some drawing lines seem to be too heavy, which affects their clarity. The painting and decaling instructions are printed in colour on a separate fold-out sheet. The manufacturer offers five marking options. All of them are fictitious of course, but the camouflage patterns appear to be based on existing schemes used for painting different aircraft. Given the number of schemes covered, the large size of the decal sheet is no surprise. Aside from the national and individual markings, we also get a set of cockpit panel decals and quite a lot of stencils. The printing quality does not raise any concerns. The tiny photo-etched fret includes the rearview mirrors and a few other details that, in fact, could also have been moulded in plastic. The inclusion of seat belts would be a much better choice. Three of the four main plastic sprues are common for all F-20 variants offered by FMK, whilst the fourth one consists of the parts required for building the longer forward fuselage of the twin seater. Another four smaller grey sprues contain the fuel tanks and AIM-9 missiles. Worth noting is that the ordnance set is restrained in comparison with other Tigershark kits from FMK, which has some nasty consequences… Twenty poly caps are provided to allow the modeller to attach the weapons to the wing pylons without glue, or reconfigure the external store load anytime that he/she wants. Clever! The clear parts are perfectly moulded and free of distortion. We also can’t complain about the surface detail quality. The panel lines are sharp and distinct, but not overdone. Perhaps some of the rivets could be a tad smaller. The cockpit parts are quite nicely detailed and the same applies to the ordnance, but the landing gear detail certainly does not meet the standards that are set by the quality of other areas of this kit.

Out of curiosity, I began construction by test-fitting the main parts of the airframe. The result was promising, as the fit was good even using just a little Tamiya tape.

I must emphasize that neither the presence of sink marks nor an inconvenient placement of the ejector pin marks seriously affect this kit, but incidentally, both these issues accumulated within the cockpit area. Fortunately, only one ejector pin mark had to be filled with putty, as the others will be invisible once the cabin is fully assembled.

The sink mark was hidden under a piece of 0.2mm styrene sheet. Actually, this isn’t necessary if you’re going to fix the canopy in the closed position, as its folding mechanism covers this surface.

This task only required the removal of the rudder pedals, as otherwise the figures fitted the seats quite well. To add a little variety to their appearance, I modified the arm pose of the first pilot.

The built-up cockpit sub-assemblies were primed with a layer of Mr.Color C8 ‘Silver’.

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In terms of detail quality, the kit seats certainly stand up to scrutiny when compared with many aftermarket products. However, the manufacturer did not provide any seat belts. I decided to hide their absence by utilising two resin pilot figures from the PJ Productions range.

I then applied the basecoat of Mr.Paint MRP-038 ‘Light Gray FS36375’, and subsequently highlighted the edges and chosen details with a mixture of the base colour and MRP-004 ‘White’.

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Once I’d brush-painted the details with Vallejo acrylics, I applied the cockpit panel decals, supplied with the kit. The instrument panel covers were airbrushed with Mr.Paint MRP-085 ‘Fine Surface Primer Black’. Next, I added some subtle highlights using heavily diluted Mr.Paint MRP-059 ‘RLM66 Schwarzgrau’.

To create some depth, I used AK-Interactive AK2072 ‘Paneliner for Gray and Blue Camouflage’. This enamel product was brushed over all interior surfaces.

Before it fully dried, I removed the excess with a dry cotton bud.

Various colours from the Vallejo Model Color range were again used for painting the pilot figures. Later, they were permanently fixed to the seats.

In order to avoid a toy-like appearance, I painted the edges of the armoured glass with black acrylic paint.

The final assembly of the forward fuselage did not bring any problems. Even though the instructions didn’t mention anything about adding the ballast, I placed some ‘Three Green Flexible Nose Weight’ putty from Uschi van der Rosten inside the nose, just in case.

The gun troughs within the upper nose panel, required some shape correction. This was an easy task thanks to using the ‘Moulding Flash Sander’ from Hobby Elements.

The panel itself didn’t fit to the nose too well, so some serious sanding was necessary. I used a metal file for this process.

I could now fit the canopy. My first step was to add the HUD glass, made from a piece of celluloid. If I had done this earlier, I would have risked damaging the fine detail.

It turned out that the windshield needed some sanding too, in order to adjust it to fit the fuselage. For this process, I sealed the adjacent surfaces of the clear part with two layers of Tamiya tape.

Once I’d glued all canopy sections, I had to mask them. I started by attaching a number of Tamiya tape strips along the edges of the transparent areas.

The excess tape was cut off with a sharp scalpel. Next, I filled the surfaces between the previously applied strips with additional pieces of tape.

Masking the canopy allowed me to rescribe the panel lines that had been obliterated during the sanding processes, as I didn’t have to worry about damaging these clear parts. For this purpose, I used both a razor saw and the ‘Mr.Scriber-Narrow’ tool from Mr.Paint. AIR Edition

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FEATURE ARTICLE Freedom Model Kits 1:48 scale F-20B/N Tigershark • Kit No.18003

Before I could put the main fuselage halves together, I had to deal with the exhaust trunking. I first primed these parts with Mr.Paint MRP-085 ‘Fine Surface Primer Black’.

The trunking interior was given a layer of AK-Interactive AK671 ‘Metallic Smoke’, whilst the turbine fan was airbrushed with AK749 ‘Aluminium’.

Next, I brought out the details of the latter part with water-based Lifecolor TSC-208 ‘Smoke’.

The trunking was then mounted within the fuselage halves. I used clamps to squeeze together the joint, until the cement had fully cured.

Afterwards, I sanded the edges of the small fuselage spine intake, once more using the superfine milling bits from the ‘Moulding Flash Sander’ set.

At this stage, I checked the fit of the forward and rear fuselage sections again. A small gap emerged at the joint.

I therefore glued a piece of 0.25mm styrene sheet to the rear fuselage section…

…and cut off the former along the edges of the latter.

The newly added plastic perfectly filled the gap.

Unfortunately, further test-fitting of the main airframe sections revealed more problems.

I then glued the splitter plates and air intake sections to the lower fuselage, and painted the inner areas of the intakes with Mr.Paint MRP-085 ‘Fine Surface Primer Black’.

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In this case, I decided to insert a small shim within the wing, which would slightly elevate its upper surface.

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I also attached a few small pieces of styrene sheet, which would improve the fit of the air intake parts.

Nevertheless, I eventually had to fill some remaining tiny gaps with cyano.

The excess cement (or rather, a putty in this case) was removed with a cotton bud, that had been dampened with a debonder.

A few areas still required treatment with sandpaper and metal file.

To ensure correct alignment of the flaps, ailerons and wings, I held them with bulldog clips until the glue had fully cured.

With the fuselage complete, I had to restore the damaged panel lines. Using a sewing needle, I also deepened a number of rivet rows that were too shallow due to the limitations of the moulding technology.

As I mentioned earlier, the landing gear detail was poor. I smoothed its rough edged shape using a scalpel and metal file, and subsequently added a few lengths of 0.4mm lead wire for extra enhancement.

To finish the construction, I had yet to build the external stores. The assembly of the fuel tanks didn’t bring any issues…

The assembled landing gear was fixed to the kit. At this stage, I also closed up all the various bay covers where their presence wouldn’t impede the painting process.

…but to attach the AIM-9 missiles to the pylons, I had to source the launch rails from my spare parts stash. Curiously, the missing elements are supplied with the other F-20 kits from FMK.

At first sight, the exhaust nozzle appeared to be over-simplified, but when I compared it with the photos of the real thing, it turned out that in order to give it an acceptable appearance, it was enough to slightly emphasize the details, using an OLFA scriber.

The use of poly caps for the ordnance attachement points allowed me to temporarily asemble the kit before painting. AIR Edition

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FEATURE ARTICLE Freedom Model Kits 1:48 scale F-20B/N Tigershark • Kit No.18003

PAINTWORK

The first step was to apply the interior colour, Mr.Paint MRP038 ‘Light Gray FS36375’, to the outside of the canopy. This colour would be seen on the canopy framing, from within the cockpit.

This was followed by airbrushing a priming layer of Mr.Color C8 ‘Silver’ over the whole kit.

Next, I gave a metallic finish to the rear fuselage area, around the exhaust nozzle. I sprayed AK-Interactive AK480 ‘Dark Aluminium’ over the chosen surfaces, and subsequently added some fine highlights with AK479 ‘Aluminium’.

The pre-shading pattern was created with MRP-059 ‘RLM66 Schwarzgrau’ and MRP-004 ‘White’. I darkened the panel lines and a number of rivet rows, and highlighted some chosen details, screws and other rivet rows.

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I started the process of building up the underside colour by airbrushing a transparent layer of Mr.Paint MRP-225 ‘Light Blue FS35622’.

The resulting discolouration was toned down with another transparent layer of Mr.Paint MRP-225 ‘Light Blue FS35622’.

Once the paint layer had fully dried, I masked the camouflage demarcation with rolls of plasticine, and then covered the particular areas with ABT115 ‘Liquid Mask’ from Abteilung 502. It is always important to seal all the nooks and crannies where the masking fluid may possibly flow, using plasticine or masking tape, as otherwise it may be difficult to remove the liquid.

The blue colour was recreated by progressive airbrushing of transparent layers of Mr.Paint MRP-120 ‘P.R.U. Blue’ and MRP-143 ‘Azure Blue ANA 609’.

To bring more variety to the surface colour, I randomly painted some meandering lines and streaks with Mr.Paint MRP-004 ‘White’, that had been previously diluted with Mr.Color thinner.

The latter colour was also the first one to be added to the upper surfaces. I basically repeated the process that I had applied to the undersides.

Further camouflage colours were added in a similar manner to the first one. I built up the grey patches with MRP-141 ‘Neutral Gray 43’ and MRP-105 ‘U.S. Navy Modern Blue-Gray FS35237’.

The removal of plasticine and masking fluid required wiping the surfaces with a cotton bud, that had been dampened with white spirit, in order to ensure that no remnants of plasticine were left on the kit. I also retouched the camouflage demarcation here and there.

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FEATURE ARTICLE Freedom Model Kits 1:48 scale F-20B/N Tigershark • Kit No.18003

At this stage, I painted the landing gear and its bays, as it was easier to mask off the areas adjacent to them, than to cover the bays and struts for the entire camouflage painting process.

The kit was then sealed with a layer of clear gloss varnish, allowing for the application of decals. Most of the latter were small and did not create any problems, but it is worth paying more attention to the tail markings, as the latter required special treatment due to their large size. For the purpose of large decal application, it is useful to prepare a simple tool, namely a shallow dish (for example, a small container lid – I use a lid of a cotton bud box), which is filled with pieces of sponge, and subsequently soaked with water until the sponge is heavily impregnated.

When our ‘tool’ is ready for work, we place the chosen decal onto the wet sponge. If the decal folds, do not try to straighten it by force, as the printed inks may crack!

After some time, the backing paper becomes evenly soaked, although it still won’t be wet enough to allow the decal to become free of it. In other words – this is the moment when it is ready for application.

The area where the decal will sit has to be wetted with Microscale ‘Micro Set’ setting solution. We need to apply a good amount of this liquid in order to create a good layer between the decal and surface, as otherwise a very thin decal would stick to the surface immediately, making it impossible to correct its position if necessary.

Next, we withdraw the backing paper to the edge of the designated area, and gently slide the paper out from the decal as we hold the latter in place with a brush.

Once we’ve ensured that the decal is correctly positioned, we may start wiping the ‘Micro Set’ liquid out from under it, using a soft brush. We start from the middle of the decal, and progressively move to its edges.

‘Micro Set’ liquid subtly softens the decals, but this impact is not sufficient. We therefore ‘paint’ the entire decal with Microscale ‘Micro Sol’ liquid.

In a few minutes, the decal will begin to shrink into and over the various surface irregularities. We may gently press the decal into the surface, using a soft brush, dampened with ‘Micro Sol’.

With more and more ‘Micro Sol’ softening solution applied, the decal becomes increasingly flabby as time passes by. We then start pressing it into the surface by rolling over the area with a cotton bud. This way we allow the decal to drape down the (recessed) panel lines and rivet rows.

In around 40 minutes, the decal should fully conform to the surface, but we may soak it a few more times with the softening solution. In this case, I additionally used AK-Interactive AK582 ‘Decal Adapter Solution’, which is slightly stronger than ‘Micro Sol’. Such a large decal should then be left to dry for at least a couple of hours, and ideally far longer.

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Another advantage of using the dish with wet sponge is that it allows us to keep more than one decal in readiness for application. After more than the hour that was required to apply the portside tail marking, the decal for the starboard side was still ‘alive’ and ready to apply. If we replenish the water, we may keep the decals in the dish even for a few days.

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The last detail that had remained unpainted thus far was the exhaust nozzle. Its external surfaces were airbrushed with irregular streaks and patches of a few colours from AK-Interactive’s Xtreme Metal range, ie. AK479 ‘Aluminium’, AK476 ‘Steel’, AK484 ‘Burnt Metal’ and AK487 ‘Metallic Blue’. The latter two colours were used to replicate the burnt effect.

The decals were sealed with a layer of clear flat varnish.

‘There are many different techniques of applying a wash...’

Finally, I painted the nozzle interior with AK-Interactive AK671 ‘Metallic Smoke’, and subsequently sprayed a misted application of Mr.Color C69 ‘Offwhite’ over the petals.

WEATHERING There are many different techniques for applying a wash. Its ‘traditional’ use for darkening the panel lines or bringing out the details has nothing to do with the weathering. However, the case is different if one chooses to work on a matte surface, which allows us to enhance the control over the distribution of enamel products, and, consequently, create additional effects. In the case of this kit, I did not only accentuate the details, but also reproduced some fine signs of usage over the chosen areas by applying various amounts of AK-Interactive AK070 ‘Brown-Blue Wash for Panzer Grey Vehicles’ over the under surfaces that had been previously dampened with white spirit.

The upper surfaces were treated in a similar manner, although in this case I used both AK070 ‘Brown-Blue Wash for Panzer Grey Vehicles’ and AK082 ‘Engine Grime’.

This method of application enabled the enamel product to act as a filter as well.

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FEATURE ARTICLE Freedom Model Kits 1:48 scale F-20B/N Tigershark • Kit No.18003

I then decided to add more dirt to the underside of the rear fuselage. I airbrushed the selected area with a small quantity of quite heavily thinned AK-Interactive AK065 ‘Afrika Korps Filter’.

Next, I blended the excess enamel by rolling it over the surface with a cotton bud that had been slightly dampened with white spirit…

…and subsequently created some fine streaks, using a wet brush.

Afterwards, I painted some oily stains and leaks with A.MIG-1408 ‘Fresh Engine Oil’ and AK-Interactive AK045 ‘Dark Brown Wash for Green Vehicles’, mixed in different ratios.

Some wear and tear was also reproduced on the external fuel tanks. I firstly airbrushed a misted application of AK-Interactive AK065 ‘Afrika Korps Filter’ over their lower areas. This was followed by adding some damage to both the enamel and paint layer. For this purpose, I patted the surface with a steel wire brush, randomly revealing the silver undercoat.

Finally, I replicated some intense streaking using A.MIG-1408 ‘Fresh Engine Oil’ and AK-Interactive AK082 ‘Engine Grime’, mixed in different ratios with white spirit.

An overall view of the lower surfaces.

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MODELSPEC Freedom Model Kits 1:48 scale F-20B/N Tigershark Kit No.18003 Accessories Used: PJ Productions 1:48 scale F-16/F-18 Pilot Seated in A/C kit #481123 Tools and Modelling Products Used: Tamiya Extra Thin Cement, Roket Hot C.A. glue, Plastruct styrene sheet, strip and rod, Lead wire, Hobby Elements Molding Flash Sander milling bit set, Uschi van der Rosten Three Green Flexible Nose Weight, Tamiya masking tape, Abteilung 502 ABT115 Liquid Mask

Once all the enamel products had fully cured, I could attach the parts that had been left off during painting and weathering.

Paints and Finishing Products Used: AK-Interactive Xtreme Metal metalizers, Mr.Color lacquers from Mr.Hobby, Mr.Paint lacquers, Vallejo waterbased acrylics, Mr.Hobby clear varnishes, Microscale and AK-Interactive decal solutions, Talens White Spirit, Ammo MIG-1408 Fresh Engine Oil, Lifecolor TSC-208 Smoke AK-Interactive weathering products: AK045 Dark Brown Wash for Green Vehicles AK065 Afrika Korps Filter AK070 Brown-Blue Wash for Panzer Grey Vehicles AK082 Engine Grime AK2072 Paneliner for Blue and Gray Camouflage High level of detail; generally good quality moulding. Landing gear does not meet the detail of the rest of the kit; no harness straps; sink marks. Rating: 8 out of 10 Thanks to Freedom Model Kits for the sample http://freedommks.com

The result is quite striking.

This would have been an interesting aircraft had it actually reached production!

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FEATURE ARTICLE Eduard 1:72 Spitfire Mk.IXc Late Version • Kit No. 70121

SMALL BUT PERFECTLY FORMED Part One T Construction Brett Green builds the brand new 1:72 scale Spitfire Mk.IXc Late Version.

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here has been no shortage of Spitfire Mk.IXs in 1:72 scale over the decades. Many of these are just plain old, with basic details and raised panel lines. Of the more recent crop, the Hasegawa kit, originally released in 1996, was a favourite for many years, but it suffers from a slightly short fuselage, questionable upper engine cowl shape and basic interior detail. The Airfix Spitfire Mk.IXc released in 2010 was a disappointment with its wide, soft surface detail, featureless wheel wells, an inconsistent mix of features and some accuracy issues. In summary, this model is not to the same standard as the latest Airfix releases. Perhaps the most accurate of all the injection moulded Spitfires was the Ventura (currently reboxed as Jays Model Kits) 1:72 scale late Merlin Spitfire series. Ventura offered a Mk.VII, Mk.VIII, Mk.IXc, Mk.XI and several related Seafire variants.

These, however, are unashamedly short run, low pressure injection moulded kits and feature some of the heaviest, thickest mould channels, flash and sprue attachments that you will find. They also have no interior detail to speak of, and even some exterior details have to be built from scratch. Although the kits can look terrifying on the sprues, surface detail was crisp and fine, and once the major parts were cleaned up fit was generally good. Even so, in today's environment this is one for the die-hards. Both A.Z. Model and Sword released a family of 1:72 scale late-Merlin Spitfire kits starting in 2012. Both are limited run kits but the quality of moulding is very good and surface detail nicely done. The level of detail, including the cockpits, is good too. Since their release, these have probably been the pick of 1:72 scale Spitfire IX kits, with the Sword kit being slightly more refined.

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WHAT’S IN THE BOX

Eduard’s box art.

The full length high-back fuselage half.

Eduard released their 1:48 scale Spitfire Mk.IXc in 2013 to a tsunami of well-deserved praise. The kit was then, and remains today, easily the best Spitfire in 1:48 scale. Anybody who has seen the sprues of the 1:48 scale kit won't be surprised by this new 1:72 scale Spitfire Mk.IXc. Eduard seems to have sensibly scaled down its bigger brother with few compromises in detail, engineering or options. Eduard's 1:72 scale Spitfire Mk.IXc Late Version comprises 165 parts in grey plastic, 15 parts in clear, a colour photo-etched fret, self-adhesive masks for the canopy and markings for five options. Of these parts, 62 are marked not for use and quite a few more are optional.

SURFACE TEXTURE The airframe features beautifully fine recessed rivets plus panel lines.

The kit offers many options including pointed and rounded rudder.

If you have have admired the surface detail on any of Eduard's recent 1:72 scale releases, you won't be disappointed with this one. Panel lines are crisp, even and quite fine. They are proportionally wider than the 1:48 scale Spitfire (unavoidably), but they will look great under a coat of paint on the finished model. Lines of rivets are present. They are very subtle - at least the equal of those found on Eduard's exquisite 1:72 scale Wurgers. The rivet lines seem to accurately follow the pattern applied to the full-sized aircraft too. It is difficult to fairly portray the panel lines

and rivets in photographs, as studio lights tend to overemphasise them, especially on the bare plastic. The rivets are visible on the real aircraft too, but the degree of prominence will depend on a number of factors - the gloss level of the paint, lighting, weathering, the angle and distance of the observer and more. The airworthy Spitfire Mk.VIII at the Temora Aviation Museum, which I have visited and photographed on a number of occassion, shows very obvious rivet patterns when viewed close-up. They correspond closely with the Eduard kit. Just like on the real aircraft, after a coat of matt paint and putting a little distance between the observer and the model, the rivet detail will be very subtle (unless you decide to emphasise it with washes and other weathering techniques, but that is entirely your prerogative!) There are some raised details too, including the cowl fasteners and patches over the wing machine gun ports. In my opinion, these are reasonably restrained (once again, looking exaggerated in this photo under the studio lights) and I will probably leave them all in place. The fasteners are visible on the real aircraft (this time Temora's Mk.XVI, which features flatter paintwork) but if the raised version on the kit are not to your taste it will be a simple matter to sand them down. Fabric detail is impressive too, with raised rib strips depicted on the control surfaces.

A hint of things to come – HF wing tips.

Canopy parts for the bubble top canopy are included on the clear sprue.

Cockpit parts removed from the sprues and ready for assembly.

The cockpit was prepared in sub-assemblies before painting.

Colour photoetched parts are provided for the instrument panel and Sutton harness.

This kit offers the same marking option as Eduard’s initial 1:48 scale Spitfire Mk.IXc release.

Stencil markings are supplied on a separate decal sheet.

The sub-assemblies were attached to a small paint box using Blu-Tack to make handling easier.

The colour photo-etched instrument panel is provided in three layers.

The base colour is Tamiya acrylic XF-71 Cockpit Green (IJN). A wash of Future, water, Tamiya XF-1 Flat Black and XF-64 Red Brown was applied over the top.

Detail parts have been picked out with a fine brush using Vallejo acrylics.

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FEATURE ARTICLE Eduard 1:72 Spitfire Mk.IXc Late Version • Kit No. 70121

DETAIL

Eduard combines plastic and colour photo-etched parts in their ProfiPACK, delivering a high level of detail straight from the box. The cockpit benefits most from the photo-etch with a nice multi-layered instrument panel, coloured harness straps and scale-thickness pilot's armour. Eduard has not attempted to colour the armour plate, which I think is a good call considering the amount of interpretation that might be applicable to British Interior Grey Green. For the 1:72 scale kit, there is no flare rack on the front of the pilot's seat - hooray! The wheel wells and undercarriage parts are well detailed. The wheel well openings are slightly oval in shape. This corresponds with the shape shown in the plans in Robert Bracken's book, "Spitfire - The Canadians" (Volume One). Fishtail and straight pipe exhausts are included. They are supplied in one piece for each side but in this very small size the stacks are understandably not hollowed out at the end.

The floor and bulkheads have been glued to the port side lower sidewall.

ENGINEERING AND OPTIONS

The kit is broken down conventionally. The fuselage is full-length with the only insert being the forward wing root (one option with a blister fairing and one without). The top engine cowling is split lengthwise into two pieces and three combinations are possible, although only two are applicable for this kit. The instructions advise which version applies to what marking option. The lower cowl is separate too. The late and early versions are included, but the early version cannot be used yet as the back half of the big lateversion carburettor intake is moulded in place on the lower mid wing. The wings are also moulded without inserts. The narrow C type wing bulges are moulded in place over the inboard cannon bay. Ailerons and the rudder are separate, while the flaps are moulded closed. This is another sensible decision, as the flaps were rarely seen dropped at any time other than on final approach to landing. The early elevators with the straight diagonal mass balance are provided as well as the late kinked version. Two late options are offered, with the choice of metal or fabric covered surfaces. The elevators are moulded neutral as part of the horizontal stabilisers. Early and late separate ailerons are included too. The early rounded and later tall pointed rudder are also included. Other options include a choice of wheel hubs (three spoke, four spoke, five spoke and covered, with photo-etched covers supplementing the plastic parts); two styles of gear doors; two sizes of underfuselage slipper tanks; one cylindrical drop tank; two 250 lb British bombs and racks; plus standard, HF or clipped wing tips. In fact, the modeller is offered two options for the clipped wing tips - one set is clear and the other moulded in grey plastic. The canopy side door is a separate part too, with the option of posing the door open or closed. Three different parts are supplied depending on whether the door is open or closed, and whether the canopy is slid back. The clear parts are free from distortion and thin.

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Detail is excellent.

The completed cockpit assembly has been glued to the starboard fuselage interior. The front of the fuselage is reinforced with a vertical and horizontal bulkhead.

The fuselage halves were taped together while the glue set.

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A number of parts here are destined for future releases, including the bubble top canopy. The closed canopy option comprises a combined sliding section and rear section, while the open canopy supplies a separate sliding section to sit over the rear clear part.

MARKINGS

Markings are supplied for five aircraft, including one with alternate markings: • Spitfire LFMk.IXc, MH712, flown by W/O Henryk Dygala, No. 302 Squadron, Summer / Autumn, 1944 • Spitfire HFMk.IXc, MJ296, flown by F/Lt Otto Smik, No. 312 Squadron, North Weald AB, Late August, 1944 • Spitfire LFMk.IXc, MJ586, flown by Pierre Clostermann, No. 602 Squadron, Longues sur Mer airfield, July 7, 1944 • Spitfire LFMk.IXc, MJ250, No. 601 Squadron, Italy, Summer, 1944 • Spitfire LFMk.IXc, ML135, flown by Jerry Billing, No. 401 Squadron, Tangmere AB, June 7, 1944 • Spitfire LFMk.IXc, ML135, flown by Jerry Billing, No. 401 Squadron, France, July 1, 1944 The colours and registration look good. Stencils are provided on a small second sheet.

CONSTRUCTION

Holes were drilled into the lower wing for the later installation of the centreline fuel tank. The main gear bays are fully enclosed. We can see the front spar and two of the semi-circular sections.

These three pieces have been glued in place and the remaining four pieces are about to be installed.

I built the cockpit straight from the box and pretty much according to the instructions. The cockpit includes a few options – plastic or photo-etched pilot’s head armour; plastic, decal or coloured photo-etch instrument panel etc. Once the sub-assemblies had been assembled they were airbrushed with Tamiya acrylic XF-71 Cockpit Green. In this small scale I decided to skip dry-brushing and simply applied a wash consisting of Future Floor Polish, water and a few drops each of Tamiya XF-1 Flat Black and XF-64 Red Brown to all the cockpit components. This dries to a subtle darkening of recesses and natural shadow areas. Details on the sidewalls and floor were now picked out with Vallejo acrylic paints and a fine brush. The pre-coloured photo-etched Sutton Harness was added at this stage. With all the sub-assemblies ready, the cockpit elements received a coat of AK Interactive Flat Varnish.

A view of all seven gear bay parts in place.

The upper wing halves were glued, taped and clamped.

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FEATURE ARTICLE Eduard 1:72 Spitfire Mk.IXc Late Version • Kit No. 70121

GETTING IT TOGETHER

The cockpit tub was assembled prior to gluing the lower port sidewall to the port side fuseage interior. The forward bulkhead and the upper rear arch were also glued in place. The starboard half was now added to complete the fuselage. The fit was excellent, and the joins were taped until the glue had thoroughly set.

BALANCE OF ASSEMBLY

Ailerons, wing tips, horizontal stabilisers, rudder, upper cowl and lower cowl with integrated carburettor intake ready to fit.

Basic construction of the airframe was complete around three hours after sealing the fuselage halves. The kit upper cowl is two parts with a centreline join. This was one of the few areas that required filler. There is virtually no detail compromise compared to Eduard’s 1:48 scale Spitfire Mk.IXc, including the fully boxed wheel well. It achieves the result using fewer parts (7 parts compared to 13), but the result is just as impressive. Fit is excellent too. The right-angle sections boxing in the legs literally clicked into place. The upper wings need to be carefully aligned. I think I managed to glue mine slightly off – only a fraction of a millimetre – leading to a slight gap between the aileron and wing. The radiators look great too, with photo-etched front and rear faces, plus poseable radiator flaps.

INTERMISSION

If you are a Spitfire fan who builds 1:72 scale kits, you are going to love Eduard's Mk.IXc. Eduard has repeated its 1:48 scale triumph with their brand new 1:72 scale Spitfire Mk.IX - accurate dimension, impressive detail, many options and more than a hint of a growing family of variants. This is easily the best injection moulded Spitfire Mk.IX in 1:72 scale. Bravo (again) Eduard! •

The two-piece upper cowl has a noticeable join seam along the centreline.

MODELSPEC Eduard 1:72 Spitfire Mk.IXc Late Version

Kit No. 70121

Tools and Modelling Products Used: Tamiya Extra Thin Cement Revell Contacta Cement Gator’s Grip Acrylic Glue Selley’s Super Glue Tamiya Surfacer Zip Kicker (super glue accelerator) Tamiya Masking Tape Iwata HP-CP airbrush The wing radiators feature photo-etched front and rear faces, plus separate radiator flaps.

Paints and Finishing Products Used: Tamiya (acrylic): X-18 Semi-Gloss Black; XF-1 Flat Black; XF-2 Flat White; XF-55 Deck Tan; XF-64 Red Brown; XF-71 Cockpit Green (IJN); Vallejo Model Color (acrylic): 70865 Oily Steel; 919 Foundation White; 70953 Flat Yellow; 70957 Flat Red; 70950 Black Vallejo Panzer Aces (acrylic): 337 Highlight Ger. (Black) AK Interactive Flat Varnish Future Floor Polish High level of detail; outstanding surface features including crisply recessed panels and subtle rivet lines where appropriate; includes colour photo-etched parts; separate parts for closed and open canopy; many useful options. Nothing worth mentioning. Rating: 9.5 out of 10 Thanks to Eduard for the sample www.eduard.com

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Nearly finished – the model prior to any filling or sanding.

A few seam lines were filled with Milliput White two-part epoxy putty.

A few more smears of filler on the lower surfaces.

The model is just about ready for masking in preparation for painting.

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e u q i f i n g Ma Magister FEATURE ARTICLE AvantGarde Model Kits 1:48 Fouga CM.170 Magister • Kit No. 88004

James Hatch builds the 1:48 Fouga Magister from AvantGarde Model Kits

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he Fouga CM.170 Magister is a two-sea French aircraft, designed for both beginner and advanced pilot training. Its unusual design incorporates a low-slung fuselage a with mid-wing format, and also a ‘V’ tail layout. With an option for two guns to be fitted in the nose cone, the Magister also sports main nose wheel gear, with a secondary skid tail wheel in a lower fin fairing on the underside of the rear fuselage. This is an aid for landing. Designed by Robert Castello and Pierre Mauboussin, and first flown in 1952, to replace the obsolete piston-engine MS.475, and was an improvement on the less successful and underpowered CM.130, and incorporating the same V-tail layout that Fouga were using on a gliding airframe that was used to test jet engines. Production Magister aircraft were fitted with 2 × Turbomeca Marboré IIA turbojets, allowing a top speed of almost 450mph. As well as the 7.92mm machine guns, external underwing loads could also be carried, such as bombs, unguided missiles and anti-tank weaponry. Wingtip fuel tanks were also fitted, and these would vary in size/capacity. The Magister is still flying today, in the hands of private collectors. Around 1000 were built, and flown by over 25 countries, including France, Germany, Israel, Ireland and Belgium.

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“AMK’s Magister kit is an absolute triumph for fans of this aircraft, with plenty of detail and scope for diorama work, plus it’s a pure pleasure to build...” AIR Edition

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FEATURE ARTICLE AvantGarde Model Kits 1:48 Fouga CM.170 Magister • Kit No. 88004

I started work on the internal modules, instead of the de rigueur cockpit construction that was prescribed. This is the pressure bay that fits in the rear fuselage.

The electronics bay contains the battery, generator, accumulator and hydraulic pump. OOB detail is very good, yet still lends itself to be detailed further.

LA MAQUETTE (THE KIT)

There are a few subjects that I always hope will eventually be tackled in 1:32. Until that time, I’m quite happy to see 1:48 incarnations. One such subject is the gorgeous Fouga Magister. When I was a kid, I built the 1:72 Heller kit, which I seem to remember was beautifully detailed. Mind you, that’s a view probably being seen through rose-coloured glasses now! Recently, Kinetic stepped up to the plate and released a dual 1:48 Magister kit, which by all accounts, is a very nice kit. So surely, if you want to release your own 1:48 Magister, you need to approach things a little differently then? Well, that is exactly what AvantGarde (AMK) has done with this; their fourth release. The kit comes in an average-sized and attractive box, with a rendered scheme on the lid. Inside, there are six sprues of mid-grey plastic, and two sprues of clear. A photo-etched fret and a set of alternative zinc-based parts are included, with the latter being contained within a tray that looks like it should be a case for an iPhone! All zinc parts are supplied as plastic too, with the obvious exception of the shaped nose weights. One clear sprue is also a copy of the fuselage sprue, in case you wish to build the model displaying the interior. A full fuselage interior is just what this kit offers too, and as you’ll see the possibilities with this kit are endless.

CONSTRUCTION DES MODULES (MODULE CONSTRUCTION)

Although work is supposed to start with the cockpit, I opted to build the various internal modules first, and then test fit them within the fuselage halves. The kit has cleverly broken down the construction of these modules into their named units, and together these will detail the whole fuselage interior, from the rear of the cockpit, to the area just forward of the tail unit. For the record, these modules are the primary gas tank, secondary gas tank, electronic bay and pressure bay. The first of these, the primary gas tank, incorporates fuselage internal framing and also the main bulkhead with its wing spars. It’s here that you have your first choice. You can opt to use the plastic part, or the zinc alternative. For ease of construction, I opted to use the plastic piece, as I felt this allowed me more leverage later on if, if I needed to adjust something. As with the secondary gas tank, fuselage former halves were glued to each side, with a bulkhead fitted at either end. I’d already decided that I wasn’t going to be using the clear parts to show the internals, so building these modules was simply going to be an exercise in demonstrating exactly what this kit has to offer. Both the tank sections were

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This is the primary gas tank, mounted just behind the main wing spar. All frame parts are separate, and there’s plenty of space for extra plumbing, if you so require.

Along with the basic cockpit tub, I decided to test fit all parts within the fuselage, and all was perfect. As you can see, I struggled to dry fit the pressure module without glue, as it tumbled out.

A smaller secondary gas tank sits directly behind the pilot. More detail framework is supplied too. None of the gas tank detail will be seen unless you use the clear fuselage parts, or open up further panels on the regular parts.

Test closing the fuselage showed the area that could be seen if you chose to leave out an engine in a diorama-finished model. Quite impressive.

All cowl parts fit perfectly too. Note that I have test-fitted one of the ‘V’ tail planes onto the rear spar.

A set of zinc alloy parts are included for the main spar, weapons, mass balances, rear engine fairings and undercarriage struts. Note also the cast nose weights. Apart from the weights, all of these parts are supplied in plastic too.

CA was used to glue the nose weights to the underside of the cockpit tub. The deepest one fits to the rear of the cockpit.

Preparing the plastic for the fitting of the Eduard photo-etched parts, consists of carefully cutting and scraping away the moulded details.

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NATO Black itself wasn’t enough to match the erroneous colour of the Eduard printed photo-etched parts. To help with this, a light application of RLM66 was added. It wasn’t perfect, by any means.

Eduard’s photo-etch is mostly selfadhesive. Some parts require a little extra work, such as the throttle handles with their styrene rod grips.

The cockpit now has its colour photo-etch parts added, and is ready for installation within the fuselage.

Tamiya weathering pastels were used to add a little tonal variety to the dark interior. This was applied with a soft flat brush instead of the awful wand that comes with the pastels.

quite similar in construction, and test fitting them to the fuselage, demonstrated that they both had a perfect drop-fit. The two rear modules, both the electronics and pressure bays, were a little more involved and fiddly, and consisted of bulkhead frames that were separated by avionics shelves. The secret here was to assemble them a part at a time, and allow the glue to set before progressing. Again, I opted to build the complete units before painting them later. Some of the smaller parts here, such as the pressure tanks, require seam removal once assembled, but the fit of the parts meant that this was a fairly easy job. As you can see from the photographs, all of these modules neatly dropped into place and testclosing the fuselage confirmed the absolute fit of everything. That’s when you get a real sense of confidence in the proceedings. However, building the cockpit was to break that track record, and not through AMK’s fault either.

Gunze Radome is used for the internal modules colour, with detail painting courtesy of both Vallejo and Mr Color metallic paints.

LE POSTE DE PILOTAGE (COCKPIT)

Whilst I was building the various internal modules, I remembered that I had an Eduard set for the cockpit, and opted to use this. I was a little torn with regards to eradicating the excellent moulded plastic detail, but I still went ahead and did it, regardless. Destroying the specific detail needed to fit the colour photo-etched parts was pretty easy, and this was done with both a #11 and #15 scalpel blade. This consisted of blanking the two instrument panels, side consoles and a little sidewall tub detail. Throttle handles were now fitted, using photo-etch, and styrene rod for the grips. Once AIR Edition

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FEATURE ARTICLE AvantGarde Model Kits 1:48 Fouga CM.170 Magister • Kit No. 88004

this was done, and some remedial construction had been carried out, I airbrushed the interior in Mr. Paint NATO Black. The Magister’s cockpit was black in reality, but this colour is perfect for replicating it in miniature. Well, I thought it was. Matching up against the Eduard photo-etch, it was obvious that the photo-etched printing wasn’t the correct colour. To alleviate this, I misted a light coat of MRP RLM66 over the internals, creating some shadow in recesses etc. This was a far better match and I was much happier with it. After being sealed with Klear which also provided a gloss surface for the self-adhesive colour photoetched parts, I started to fit them. Instrument panels went easily, but the same can’t be said for the side consoles. Cut-outs for the raised throttle quadrants didn’t line up with the other photo-etched cutouts, and the photo-etched console overhung the plastic by almost 1mm. The problem also meant that photo-etch wouldn’t lie flat, as the quadrant cutout wasn’t long enough either. Sometimes, these things are sent to test us, so the console parts were removed from the model and modified using a sharp scalpel blade. They were then re-fitted to the plastic tub, where I then had to tackle the overhang. For this, I used a jeweller’s file and scalpel blade, and then had to further adjust the notches for the moulded internal fuselage frames. Well, they say that nothing worthwhile comes easy! Other photo-etched details were now fitted to the internal fuselage walls and to the plastic tub. I was going to use the colour photo-etched seatbelts from the Eduard set as these looked great, but there was no clear illustration of how they should look once applied, and I couldn’t correlate that to the brass belts that AMK had supplied. After painting the seats in Humbrol H70 Brick Red enamel, to represent the colour seen on my reference photo, I fitted the seat belts and painted them in Vallejo Deep Sky Blue, with the buckles painted with Mr Metal Color Aluminium. I then sealed this in with coat of Klear, and after some minor cockpit painting, a wash of AK-Interactive Dark Brown was applied to lift some of the detail. Once dry and the excess wash was removed, flat varnish was misted over the cockpit interior. I admit that this is the time when all the various elements, including the colour photo-etched parts, do seem to come together. Vallejo Sky Grey was now used to add a very subtle dry-brushing to the cockpit interior, including the control columns. Of course, the instrument gauges wouldn’t be so dull looking, so I added a spot of Micro Kristal Klear to these with a cocktail stick, and let it cure. The end result is the gauges looking shiny, like glass. If you flip over the cockpit tub, you’ll see two areas set aside for the cast zinc nose weights. These are glued into place using Roket CA. The fuselage was now set aside for fitting into the fuselage a little later in the build.

One of the most puzzling things in an otherwise superb kit was the position of one of the locating pins on the engine; directly at the exhaust opening!

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Fitting the cockpit inside the fuselage was far from an easy task due to what was now obviously some ill-fitting colour photo-etch. These parts had to be adjusted before the cockpit could be finally fitted.

AMK’s little Magister has a very full and detailed interior.

Each intake comprises three parts that are cleverly thought out and easy to assemble.

After closing up the fuselage, the intakes would be slid into position within the internal frame of the primary gas tank. After fixing the photo-etch problem, everything closed up with little problem.

The rear turtle deck fits beautifully. Thankfully, I noticed in time that this particular rear canopy section was the wrong one for the Luftwaffe machine.

Both engines are quite detailed, and include both intake faces and exhaust fans, as well as various ancillary detail parts on the external faces.

After an initial coat of aluminium paint, Vallejo paint was used to detail one of the engines. Zoukei-mura’s fine tip brushes are an invaluable tool for such fine details.

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Wheel well construction is easy, and we also need to remember to open up the weapons pylons holes for the wing undersides.

PEINTURE DE L’ INTÉRIEUR (PAINTING THE INTERIOR)

Another view of the main wheel wells shows just how good the kit detail actually is. I used a fibreglass pen to lessen the appearance of those ejector pin marks.

Painting the interior modules wasn’t something I really wanted to go to town on, as you would barely see any of this in my finished work. To start, I used Gunze Radome as the main interior colour, being fairly close to the creamy paintwork used within the real Magister. Other details, such as the battery, avionics, fuel fillers and pressure tanks, were hand painted using Vallejo paints, thinned with a drop of water. I’ve grown rather tired of my range of small brushes lately, but I’ve been trying out the Zoukei-mura range of fine-tipped synthetic brushes from RB Productions, and I’m converted. These really are excellent for precision painting in some of the most remote areas. These various modules are living witness to that! AK Dark Brown wash was used on the interior detail, and was buffed into the primary and secondary fuel tanks to give a tarnished look. It didn’t really matter too much, as these are barely seen at all. After scraping a little paint from the various glue faces both within the fuselage halves and the modules/cockpit. These were then fitted into their respective positions using Tamiya Extra Thin Cement. One thing to also note is that the V-tail spars also need to be installed, as this area will be inaccessible later. With everything now in situ, the fuselage was finally closed up. Once the cement was cured, the seams were removed with progressively finer grades of sanding stick and sponge. Thankfully, no panel lines needed to be re-established, although I did need to use a little CA in areas where the seam wasn’t fully eradicated. One area I built now, ready for installation later, was the nose cone and interior. Starting with the external shell, the loop aerial fairings were removed using a scalpel, as these weren’t used on the Luftwaffe machine I wanted to build. The remaining holes were filled with Mr Dissolved Putty, and then sanded back to it was flush with the exterior. In contrast to the assembly sequence, these were then painted internally at this stage, and then glued together, complete with the gun fairing section. I figured this would be easier than gluing each half to the fuselage when the nose gear was installed. The nose interior is also a mini work of art. Firstly, the bulkhead was airbrushed in Gunze Radome, and then detail painted with Vallejo before a dark wash was applied to highlight the detail further. The only real tricky part here was to assemble the various brackets for the nose gear. A good 30 minutes passed before I was in a position to apply any cement and fix the struts together. The finished assembly was then airbrushed in Gunze Aluminium and treated to a Klear coat and dark wash to accentuate the intricately moulded details. When complete, this was glued to the bulkhead, and a misting of Gunze H20 Clear Flat varnish applied. These

As with the interior modules, Gunze Radome was used to paint all wheel wells, including the interior of the nose cone and the bulkhead.

Two sizes of wingtip tank are included. I opted to fit the larger ones.

The ‘V’ tail plane was now fitted, but I omitted the elevators until later in assembly.

Eduard’s canopy mask proved to be an invaluable aid on the Magister.

Both wings fitted without any issue, and as you can see, putty wasn’t really needed at all. A small drip of Mr Dissolved Putty was applied in a couple of spots at the wing root.

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FEATURE ARTICLE AvantGarde Model Kits 1:48 Fouga CM.170 Magister • Kit No. 88004

The trickiest part of the build was aligning the nose gear strut and the frame parts to the bulkhead.

would be left off the model until the final assembly. I quite like how the two intakes are assembled. These are pretty flawless and leave no internal seams that need to be removed. Three parts per intake and once assembled, they literally slide into the channels within the interior fuselage framework, and they do so without any fit issues or gaps. Most impressive. An area referred to as ‘computer’, sits on the turtle deck to the rear of the pilot. I presume this is some avionic flight computer. I’m really not sure, but assembly was easy, including a little photoetch, and the finished deck sits aside the secondary fuel tank to the rear of the pilot. After being painted in the same colour as the interior, weathering was added with a little dry-brushing and a Prismacolor silver pencil. Revell Contacta cement was used to fit, as my Tamiya glue wouldn’t be able to reach the joint area underneath the deck.

MOTEURS (ENGINES)

Two complete and detailed engines are included in this kit, comprising of 11 parts each. Although I built up both, only one would be left exposed, so it was this one that I painted. A base colour of AK-Interactive Aluminium was applied, and several Vallejo colours were used to detail the engine, along with Mr Metal Color Brass. I found the wiring quite awkward to paint due to how finely represented the details were, so used the side of my Zoukei-mura brush to tackle this, and brought the detail out further with a dark enamel wash. A little heat staining was added around the end of the exhaust pipe, using Tamiya Smoke. At this point, I glued in the hidden engine, and temporarily fitted the painted unit until later in the build.

ASSEMBLAGE DES AILES (WING ASSEMBLY)

I feel where this model also excels is in the design of the wing. Here, the modeller is presented with several options that we will look at in a minute. The interior of the upper wing panels contains the moulded detail of the wheel well ceiling. Around this is then to be fitted the sidewalls, and finally, the undercarriage leg post. Next was an application of Gunze Radome to the wells, followed by a coat of Klear and a wash to bring out the detail. Before I could fit the wing halves together, I drilled out the holes for the wing pylon mounting positions, using a 1mm micro drill bit. Assembly was easy, and whilst these were curing, I assembled the wing tip fuel tanks. This was the first option here, as two tank sizes were included, and none specifically aligned against any of the included schemes. I opted for the larger tanks. Once set, the seams on these and the wing leading edges were removed with sanding and polishing sticks, and the photo-etched fuel tank breather caps were added. The tanks were now fitted to the

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I cracked out the Radome again for painting the interior of the gear well doors.

wings and the aileron actuators added, again from photo-etch. Two sets of flaps are included in this kit; one for both raised and lowered positions. I opted for the latter, to help create some visual interest. As these would be quite fragile at this stage, and as I needed to paint Radome into the flap recess areas, I opted to add these on the final assembly stage. Our third wing option is the airbrakes position. These hark back to the Magister’s glider lineage, and these simply pop up, three per side on both upper and lower wings. The airbrake wing skins are included as photo-etched parts, with a simple retracted air brake plate, and the ones with deployed air brakes. The brakes themselves need removing from the fret and their two feet bending in opposite directions. With all twelve bent into position, they were installed into the underside of the wing plate, using CA. I numbered the plates with a permanent marker so I could identify them when it came to installing them…..again on final assembly. For a temporary measure, I fitted the alternative plates with a drop of Micro Kristal Klear. The V tail sections were also easy to construct. These come as the standard upper and lower panels, and once glued and their seams removed, they slide onto the spars that were fitted to the fuselage earlier. I decided to leave the elevators off at this stage, as these would be painted a different colour to the camouflage scheme.

ARMEMENTS ET ROUES (WEAPONS AND WHEELS)

You’ll notice just how close to the ground that the Magister actually sits. Those undercarriage legs are very short indeed. Once removed from the sprue, the gear and strut parts were painted with AK-Interactive Aluminium, along with the wheel hubs. These were then sealed with Klear and a dark brown wash applied. Once the excess was removed, I used Eduard’s masks for the wheel hubs and airbrushed MRP Tyre Black onto the wheels themselves. I quite like the photo-etched gear door hinges in this release. They are substantial enough not to be fragile, and these were applied with a

AK-Interactive aluminium paint was used for the struts, and MRP Tire Black for the wheels. Dark Brown wash was used to highlight details.

touch of Roket CA. The gear door interiors were painted with Radome and weathered with dark brown wash, and the exterior would of course be treated to the same colour as the lower surfaces of the aircraft, when that time came to paint this area.

ASSEMBLAGE PRINCIPAL (MAIN ASSEMBLY)

One thing I almost got wrong on this model was the fitting of the wrong type of rear canopy hood. I had painted and assembled the one which would be used on 3 of the other schemes, but not mine. Luckily, I caught this before I fitted it to the fuselage. Thankfully, the part I needed was found on the clear sprue, moulded as a single frame and canopy part. This was now attached to the fuselage with Tamiya Thin cement, along with the windscreen and centre fixed hood. Both moveable hoods were now temporarily fitted with some Micro Kristal Klear and then Eduard’s mask set was added. This fitted beautifully and saved a lot of time, especially on the rear canopy where the framing definition wasn’t quite as sharp as the other canopy parts. The wings fitted easily to the fuselage, just sliding down the spars and locking into position with a square pip on the wing root. Another excellent fit with no need for putty. As I didn’t want to add the undercarriage until the end, I temporarily clipped the nose cone into position after masking the inside off with some Tesa tape. The other various cowls and hatches were now also temporarily glued into position for the main paint job. I did use a couple of small dabs of Mr Dissolved Putty in a couple of spots, but this was minimal, and the excess was removed with Isopropyl alcohol.

PEINTURE (PAINTING)

Always remember to airbrush the canopy area in the interior colour first, as this is what you’ll see when you look inside the cockpit. It’s so easy to forget, and I almost did…again. For this, I used MRP NATO Black. Priming was then done with MRP White Primer. The aim here is never to absolutely cover the model in a perfect colour coat, but simply to cover it. I’m

I opted to fit rockets and rockets to my Magister, although bombs are also included.

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NATO Black was used to paint over the cockpit frameworks, prior to priming.

MRP White Primer was now applied to the model. As long as the model is covered, and even coat is not required.

Pre-shading was added using MRP Basic Black.

Painting the undersides in Tamiya’s Medium Grey was a tactical error. It just looked wrong, so…..

…..I overpainted this with Tamiya Sky Grey. This looks much more correct.

Tesa tape and 2mm Blu-Tack worms were used to mark the model in preparation for painting the camouflage colours.

MRP Basalt Grey was used first. These colours were specifically prepared by MRP for subjects such as these.

MRP Yellow Olive was now applied and left to cure before the masking was removed.

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FEATURE ARTICLE AvantGarde Model Kits 1:48 Fouga CM.170 Magister • Kit No. 88004

After a base coat of MRP White, their Fluorescent Orange paint was applied to the elevators and the outside halves of the wingtip tanks.

actually not too bothered about a solid colour when it comes to priming. If anything, application of the paint could bring a few nice tonal variations if thin coats are applied. Once primed, fine micromesh cloths are used to ensure a smooth finish. MRP Basic Black is used to pre-shade the model. The first scheme colour to apply is the underside Agate Grey. As I didn’t have this colour, I opted to use Tamiya Medium Grey, which I was led to believe was a close match. After applying this, it looked totally wrong….a bit like grey with a touch of beige. I opted to overpaint this with Tamiya Sky Grey, which I felt was a closer match. This was applied in thin coats, so as to properly utilise the pre-shading I’d applied. Once cured, the undersides were masked off and the model prepared for the main camouflage colours. For masking, I used a combination of Tesa tape and thin worms of Blu-Tack (approx. 2mm diameter) Of course, it’s the lightest of the two upper camouflage colours that first needs to be applied here, so MRP Basalt Grey was airbrushed, but only in the regions it would be seen. I’ve long since given up applying a camo colour to the whole model and then obliterating a portion of it. The way I do it now allows me to maximise the existence of the pre-shade I first added. Looking at the reference photos, the camo edges seem to be ever so slightly soft, and certainly not hardedged. To recreate this, I rolled another series of Blu-Tak worms quite thinly and applied these to the model. The grey areas were now infilled with Tesa tape, and the MRP Yellow Olive was then applied. When airbrushing this, I also slightly angled the model to allow some paint to penetrate below the shade of the putty worms. If I had simply airbrushed the model from above the worms, there was a chance the edge could be too soft and feathered. I didn’t feel that any fading was really required, as these aircraft weren’t subjected to warfare and harsh conditions. They were simply training aircraft operated within wet and windy northern Europe. The same colours were applied to the separate wing panels onto which the airbrakes were installed. The airbrakes themselves were painted in Radome. After removing all the masking tape, I applied yet more tape for the application of the orange tip tanks and also for the red intake areas. For these, I airbrushed a few thin coats of flat white as a base for these bright colours, and then MRP Fluorescent Orange was applied to the tip tanks and Tamiya Flat red to the intake lips. At the same time, I airbrushed the elevators that I had previously left off the model. This is the point where I consider leaving the model a good 24 hours before applying a protective coat of Klear. As I touched upon earlier, I really wanted to give this model more dynamism that it would otherwise have, so I would pose the flaps in a drooped position, as well as having the airbrakes deployed.

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With Tamiya’s Flat Red used to paint the intake lips, the main paint job is now almost done on this model.

There aren’t too many decals for this model, unlike some jet aircraft. It’s mainly national insignia and a few key stencils.

Photo-etch has been used for the wing panel that contains the airbrakes. These are painted to match the aircraft colours, and then applied with CA.

Dark Brown wash is now applied to the panel lines and once left to dry for 2hrs, the excess is removed with a cotton bud.

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MARQUAGES (MARKINGS)

A single decal sheet is included in this kit, which also carries some of the large striped panels for other schemes. No such luxury with this Luftwaffe machine though, and a simple series of national markings is the order of the day, along with a reasonable number of stencils which add a little life to the airframe. These were applied using a small drop of Mr Mark Setter, where the decals fell over a panel line, or rivets etc. When all applied and allowed to settle overnight, they were sealed in with a couple of fine coats of Klear. If you opt for the Luftwaffe machine, you really don’t get value for money with the decal sheet, as about 90% will still go unused! Maybe you can use that spare clear fuselage sprue and build a technical diorama with those unused decals. Just an idea…

VIELLISSEMENT ET ASSEMBLAGE FINAL (WEATHERING & FINAL ASSEMBLY)

As I previously said, I wouldn’t really be doing too much in this respect, as these aircraft would have been lovingly maintained by their ground crew, and not kept outside in all conditions. At this point, I flicked off the temporary wing photo-etched plates and added them airbrake parts with a touch of CA. I then applied a pin wash of AK-Interactive’s Dark Brown wash to the upper and lower surfaces. Once dry, the excess was removed with a cotton bud, in the direction of airflow. A flat coat of Gunze H20 was applied to all parts, but maintaining a very slight sheen, albeit just about noticeable. I didn’t even bother with any pencil chipping, as my photos show these not to suffer from this issue, or they were continually maintained. One of my favourite processes is to

We can now see just how squat the appearance of the Magister was, with these short, stubby undercarriage legs.

I opted to use the drooped flaps, and these were painted to suit, before being fitted to the model. Whoops! I almost forgot to paint Radome in the frame area below the engine cowl. A quick engine removal and masking job was required.

Masks removed, dangly bits attached.

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FEATURE ARTICLE AvantGarde Model Kits 1:48 Fouga CM.170 Magister • Kit No. 88004

unmask the canopy parts, and thankfully, there was no paint bleed. The two hood parts were now prised from their positions and the temporary glue, and the old residues removed with a toothpick. What remained now was to assemble the various parts that had been painted separately, and attach them to the main aircraft. I opted for the wheels first, then the gear doors, followed by the canopy parts and their connection arms. As there was no canopy to canopy connection except for the thin arms, I added a spot of odourless CA as a precautionary measure. Next up were the underwing weapons, and I mustn’t forget the clear lamp areas on the nose and both wingtip fuel tanks. The latter were added with a spot of Micro Kristal Klear. As my last handling escape route was the rear edge of the wing, I finally added the dropped flaps.

CONCLUSIONS (AFTERTHOUGHTS)

I really do wish that I had had more time to build this model, and maybe add some wiring. I

Nose gun bay with the cowl removed.

certainly wouldn’t have bothered with the Eduard internal detail set, although the canopy masks were invaluable. I also should have fitted the photo-etched wing panels in their correct positions first, and then removed them later and fitted the airbrakes to them. Sometimes, you have to think on your feet, and occasional trips and stumbles are encountered. I wasn’t too keen on the decals in this release either, as mine were a little blurry around some edges, and were also slightly out of register, leaving a slightly grubby look. Having said that, AMK’s Magister kit is an absolute triumph for fans of this aircraft, with plenty of detail and scope for diorama work, plus it’s a pure pleasure to build. I really can’t wait to tackle the MiG-31B/BS that’s sitting on my shelf. My sincere thanks to AMK and Martin Wilson for the kit, and also to the guys on Mr Paint. Thank you to Franck Oudin for proving that my grasp of the French language is dismal! This article is dedicated to the memory of Kitty. •

MODELSPEC AvantGarde Model Kits 1:48 Fouga CM.170 Magister Kit No. 88004 Accessories Used: Eduard canopy masks #EX463, Eduard detail set #49721 Tools and Modelling Materials Used: Evergreen plastic rod, Tamiya Extra Thin Cement, Deluxe Materials Rocket CA, medium viscosity, Deluxe Materials Odourless CA, Mr Dissolved Putty, Swann Morton Scalpel #11 and #15, MDC sanding sponges, Albion Alloys sanding sticks, Tesa masking tape, Iwata HP-CH airbrush, Xuron photo-etch bending pliers, Micro drill set, Xuron sprue cutters, Mr Mark Setter, Mr Masking Sol Neo., Zoukeimura paintbrushes Paints and Weathering Materials Used: Mr Levelling Thinner Mr Paint White Primer Mr Paint Basalt Grey, Yellow Olive, Fluorescent Orange, NATO Black, RLM66, Tire Black Tamiya Sky Grey, Smoke Gunze Radome, Aluminium, Brass, H20 Flat Clear AK-Interactive Dark Brown Wash, Aluminium paint. Humbrol H70 Brick Red Vallejo Deep Sky Blue, Sky Grey, Red, Grey Green, White, Yellow, Black, Orange, Olive Green Johnsons Klear Reference Fouga Magister – An Irish Perspective, Radu Brinzan & Joe Maxwell (Max Decals) Fouga Magister, Tine Soetaert, (MMP Books, White Series) Superbly intuitive model kit. Plenty of detail. Instructions could be a little clearer in places. Rating: 8.5 out of 10 Thanks to AMK for the sample.

The V-tail delivers the aircraft a very unusual configuration.

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modeller Next Issues military illustrated

ISSUE No.067 November 2016

Aircraft Edition - Brett Green AFV Edition - Marcus Nicholls Publisher; Alan Harman Graphic Design; Alex Hall Advertising Manager; Sean Leslie Office Manager; Paula Gray Administration Manager; Hannah McLaurie Administration Assistant; Julie Lane MIM Website; ADH Web Team Editors;

Military Illustrated Modeller Issue 68 - AFV Edition

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Tailpiece Who’d have thought that we’d see an injectionmoulded 1:48 scale Bulldog? The Editor takes a peek inside the box.

Tarangus 1:48 Bulldog T.1. Kit No. TA4806

BRITISH BULLDOG

66

T

he Scottish Aviation Bulldog is a British two-seat side-by-side (with optional third seat) training aircraft designed by Beagle Aircraft as the B.125 Bulldog. As far as I know, the Bulldog T.1 has never been available as a 1:48 scale injection moulded model kit. Tarangus’ 1:48 scale Bulldog T.1 comprises just 60 parts in grey plastic and seven parts in clear plus decals for four subjects. There is no photo-etch or resin offered. The kit has been moulded using limited run technology, but the parts are clean with quite fine sprue connection points and almost no evidence of flash. You don’t have the luxury of locating pins but any moderately experienced modeller should have no trouble with the simple parts breakdown. The most important parts of the project will be parts preparation - removing the raised ejector circles on the insides of some of the major parts and careful alignment during assembly. Also keep in mind when assembling a limited run kit, there is no such thing as too much test fitting! The model is broken down conventionally with the fuselage being moulded in two full-length halves, the wings having upper and lower left and right halves, and the horizontal tailplanes being presented in one piece each. The ailerons and flaps are moulded as part of the upper wings, so the trailing edges are nice and sharp. Surface textures are really well done, with fine, crisply recessed panel lines and nice raised “pressed metal” texture on the ailerons, flaps and elevators. The simple cockpit is adequately depicted. The instrument panel features plain recessed circles and some raised shapes. The addition of a set of Airscale or MDC instrument dials plus some after market harness straps (they’re not included in the kit either) will lift the front office greatly. Basic engine cylinder detail is offered inside the forward fuselage. The canopy is a single clear part with the windscreen and sliding section moulded as one. This is a bit of a shame, as the large open canopy would really help showcase the interior. The clear parts look a bit cloudy on the sprues but a dip in Future floor polish should help them shine. The landing light cover, small rear windows, wingtip nav lights and beacon are also supplied as clear parts. Avionics are either small plastic parts or added from

wire, as noted in the instructions. Four marking options are included, reflecting the varied use of the type: • Bulldog T.1 701 - Kenya Air Force • Bulldog T.1 XX621 - Yorkshire University Air Squadron • Bulldog T.1 AS0023 - Armed Forces of Malta • Bulldog T.1 XX537 - RAF East Lowlands Universities Air Squadron The decals are well printed, in register and feature good colour registration.

CONCLUSION

This is a simple kit of an important trainer that has never before been available as a 1:48 scale injection moulded plastic kit. Detail reflects the simple layout of the real aircraft, and surface textures are very good considering the kit’s limited run origins. I have found that value is very much in the eye (or the wallet) of the beholder. At £35.00, you’ll have to make up your own mind. However, if you have always wanted an injection moulded 1:48 scale Bulldog, this will probably be your only chance! I hope that Tarangus continue the logical sequence of RAF trainers. I’d love to see the aircraft that I completed my ab initio training in - the Grob G 115 T-Bird (G 115E Tutor T.1 in RAF service) - in 1:48 scale. I can only hope... Recommended. •

The kit is crispy moulded.

Pressed metal control surfaces are well depicted.

Minimal flash and modest sprue attachments.

The two seats. You’ll need to supply your own harness straps.

The instrument panel is very basic.

Luckily, once assembled, you can only glimpse the engine cylinders!

Markings are supplied for four aircraft.

Thanks to Tarangus for the review sample http://www.tarangus.se The kit’s clear parts, including one-piece closed canopy.

Military Illustrated Modeller - November 2016

*Historical summary courtesy of Wikipedia.

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