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£6.50 - May’17 (issue 073)
Trumpeter’s 1:32 Junkers Ju 87 A Stuka
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OVER SPAIN
05
STUKA
Aircraft edition
Wingsy 1:48 A5M2b Claude • Wingnut Wings 1:32 DFW C.V • Red Roo 1:48 Winjeel • Kinetic 1:32 F/A-18C Hornet and more…
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Available in the ‘HOW TO BUILD...’ series ORDER NOW NEW How to Build the Tamiya 1:32 Mosquito FB.VI The definitive guide to building the much anticipated Tamiya 1:32 Mosquito FB.VI by Brett Green. This book features a comprehensive build plus: ■ Mosquito restoration close-up ■ Historical summary ■ Wartime reference photos ■ Step by Step – Tips and techniques for building the ultimate Mosquito ■ The other Tamiya Mosquitos in 1:72 and 1:48 scales ■ Aftermarket decal and accessory summary
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Contents
modeller military illustrated
ISSUE No.073 May 2017
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22
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NEWS
What’s happening in modelling and aviation
STUKA OVER SPAIN
Trumpeter’s 1:32 Junkers Ju 87 A by James Hatch
20 GALLERY
Tamiya 1:48 Ki-61d Hein by Brett Green
22 YOUNG EAGLE
Red Roo Models’ 1:48 CAC CA-25 Winjeel by Brett Green
34 FLEET STINGER
Kinetic Model Kits 1:48 McDonnell Douglas F/A-18C Hornet by Mick Evans
40 ZERO MINUS ONE
Wingsy Kits’ 1:48 A5M2B Claude by Kamil Feliks Sztarbala
54 JACK OF ALL TRADES Wingnut Wings 1:32 DFW C.V (late) by Gary Edmundson
62 PREVIEW
40
Special Hobby 1:48 Zlin Z-181/C-6
65 NEXT ISSUES
What’s coming up in the next issues of Military Illustrated Modeller
66 TAILPIECE
Examining Eduard’s 1:48 Weekend Edition Hellcat Nightfighter
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20 AIR Edition
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News LANCING MODEL SHOW SATURDAY 13TH MAY 2017
The show is now in its 11th year and continues to offer free admission and a top class competition along with many club and personal displays alongside the traders.
■ Doors open to the Public from 10.00am - 4.00pm ■ Free entry, donations welcome ■ Club Displays and Exhibits, Competition, Traders and Refreshments
Details are as follows: ■ Lancing Parish Hall, 96 South Street, Lancing, BN15 8AJ
www.lancingmodelshow.org.uk or email
[email protected] for further information.
IPMS WOMBOURNE AERO SPACE AND VEHICLE 2017 CLUB SHOW The IPMS Wombourne will be holding their Aero Space and Vehicle 2017 Club Show on 3 September from 10 am to 4 pm.
There will be three halls full of clubs, traders, Special Interest Groups, Open Competition, refreshments and free parking.
The venue is: The Community Centre Church Road, Wombourne, South Staffs, WV5 9EZ.
For more information, visit the website http://asvcmodelclub.co.uk/
ITALERI 1:32 F-35A LIGHTNING II We’ve just received an early production example of Italeri’s brand-new 1:32 scale F-35A Lightning. Italeri’s 1:32 scale F-35A comprises 274 parts in grey coloured plastic (including 8 marked not for use), nine parts in yellow-tinted clear, 27 photoetched parts, a small clear acetate sheet; and markings for six aircraft. Moulding quality is good, with only a small number of ejector pin circles on the inner surface of some parts that will need attention before assembly. I particularly like the Radar Absorbing Material areas (RAM), represented as raised zig-zags and strips on the surface of the model. These are raised on the real aircraft too, and are finished in a slightly different shade of grey. In order to help the modeller represent this effect accurately, Italeri supplies a set of self-adhesive vinyl masks in the shape of the various RAM outlines. Decals are included for some of the different coloured panels too. The fuselage is broken down into upper and lower halves. The lower half is peppered with openings for the landing gear and the big ordnance bays. These are all crisply moulded with deep detail, ad should look great with some restrained
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weathering. The various hinges and rams for the doors look quite impressive themselves. However, all undercarriage and ordnance doors may be closed if you prefer. The small vent doors on the top of the fuselage are separate parts that may be posed open or closed too. The cockpit of the real F-35A is quite clean and simple, and Italeri’s front office reflects this. A decal is supplied for the wide screen instrument panel display, and a clear piece of die-cut acetate is also included as the front of the screen - a nice touch. Most of the side console detail is moulded to the tub, but the throttle and rudder bar are separate pieces. Photo-etched coaming is supplied for the open canopy option. The one-piece canopy is moulded in yellow-tinted clear plastic and may be posed open or closed, with a stout plastic and photo-etch hinge assembly provided for the open option. Frame detail is moulded to the inside of the canopy. The pilot’s ladder and hatch are also supplied as options. The seat is nicely done, with crisp detail on the sides and rear plus photo-etched harness straps.
Full-length intake ducting and a complete engine are also included. Depending on which hatches are open, you will catch glimpses of the engine inside the finished model. The exhaust nozzle and flame holder assembly looks great. Undercarriage legs are stout and feature hydraulic cables moulded in place. All the wheels are supplied in plastic (not vinyl - hooray!), and are bulged and flattened. Control surfaces are separate and optional wing pylons are offered for the USAF and Italian versions. Ordnance is supplied in the form of two AIM120C AMRAAM missiles, two AIM-9X Sidewinder missiles and two GBU-31 JDAM 2,000 lb bombs. Instructions are called out across 45 clearly illustrated steps. Diagrams are also included for the three weapons configurations and a guide for the RAM painting masks. We’ll have more detail in a future issue of Military Illustrated Modeller magazine. Thanks to Italeri for the sample www.italeri.com
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FEATURE ARTICLE Trumpeter 1:32 Junkers Ju 87 A Stuka • Kit No. 03213
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N I A P S R E V O STUKA unkers J 2 3 : 1 s umpeter’ ings. r T s d l i u mark atch b James H Condor Legion in Ju 87 A
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FEATURE ARTICLE Trumpeter 1:32 Junkers Ju 87 A Stuka • Kit No. 03213
J
unkers’ notorious Ju 87 dive-bomber doubtless evokes several differing impressions amongst those who are familiar with its history. For some, it will be the aggressor, attacking BEF and French forces on the beaches of Dunkirk. Or it might be the lame duck from the Battle of Britain when, after an initial reign of terror, it became easy prey to fighters. Others will see it in its later role over the Eastern Front, where it again managed to recreate the initial fear for which the Stuka and its screeching wind-driven dive sirens were best known for. Wearing a thin, white distemper over its original splinter camouflage, the Ju 87 initially served again with distinction against the Soviet Union. The Stuka was also involved in the very first opening skirmishes of the war, during the invasion of Poland, and the driving back of Polish forces and destruction of Polish cities. These skills were first honed, however, in the skies of sunny Spain, during the Spanish Civil War. Here, the Ju 87 worked alongside Franco’s Nationalist forces, raining terror upon both Republican forces and civilians alike. On 26th April, 1937, one of the war’s most infamous events took place: Operation Rügen, the bombing of the northern Spanish town of Guernica, later made famous by Picasso’s painting of the same name. Here, this Basque town was pummelled into the dirt by both Germany’s Condor Legion, thought to be operating the Ju 87, although this is disputed, alongside the forces of Fascist Italy.
Designed by Hermann Pohlmann, and first flown in 1935, the Ju 87 was introduced into service around the time of the Spanish Civil War, where its pilots honed the very skills that were to be eventually put to use during WW2. Ernst Udet, whilst not the father of dive-bombing, was certainly its biggest advocate, perhaps almost to the point of obsession. Having flown the Curtiss Goshawk whilst in the States, and purchasing the machine also, Udet pushed for a new German design, with Junker’s machine ultimately being the outright winner. Not without its own initial problems, such as an unpopular British engine and a lack of stability that was only rectified by replacing the twin tail arrangement with a regular single fin. Without a doubt, the Stuka is one of the world’s most recognisable aircraft with its inverted gull wings, gaping radiator intake, and large wheel spats. Junkers’ design was quite revolutionary for the time, with a special alloy being used for the high-stress flap arrangement and the use of moulded/cast parts, negating welding joints that would complicate field repairs. The Ju 87 that took part in the Spanish Civil War was the earliest production variant, the Anton A-1. This is what I will build for this article.
TRUMPETER’S 1:32 JU 87 A ENGINE
Construction typically starts with the cockpit, but not on this build. Here, we first tackle the Anton’s Jumo
210D engine. At this point, I will say that Trumpeter hasn’t catered for the display of the engine on their kit, with the cowls being moulded as complete port/ starboard halves. Unless you want to take a saw to the cowls and risk separating them further, then the engine will be buried, unseen, on the completed model. I certainly had no intention of dissecting key parts of this model, irrespective of the engine, but for the sake of this article, I went ahead and decided to build and install it, nonetheless. I also can’t help but think that it looks a little undersize, but that’s academic here, as it’s a very nice representation. Trumpeter has put a reasonable amount of effort into this engine, comprising around 40 parts including a very detailed firewall and mounting brackets. It doesn’t look like it’s necessary to even fit the engine to the model, so it could be displayed separately if that is what floats your boat. Having said that, you do have a few cowl openings that will benefit from the engine being installed within. On the later versions, the intake grill pattern runs vertically, and on the Anton, it runs horizontally. Unfortunately, Trumpeter didn’t get this right, but Eduard did with their photo-etch set, so this was put to one side for installation later. Painting this first and then inserting once the cowl is painted, is the easy way to go. I did test fit to make sure that it did indeed fit!
A quick test fit of most of the major components showed that this should be a pretty easy ride, straight from box at least.
The basic engine and firewall are extremely good. It’s such a shame that Trumpeter made no provision for displaying this with a multi-part cowling.
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A completed engine and bulkhead, ready for an overall coat of black paint.
Test fitting the engine into the cowling didn’t indicate any unforeseen problems. So far, so good.
I have seen at least one online build with a gap between the cowl and the fuselage. You must push the engine fully forward until it clicks into position and the rear of the firewall is flush with the rear of the cowl.
Straight from the box, this is how much the exhausts protrude from the cowl. It clearly isn’t enough, so this needs to be fixed.
ENGINE AND COWL MODIFICATION
Note the shape of the small forward openings. These need to be circular and certainly not this shape.
Here you can see the difference this has made, with the unaltered cowl on the left, and the modified cowl on the right. Much better!
Using a #15 scalpel blade, plastic is scraped from the inside wall, thinning it and allowing the exhaust strip to protrude further to the outside.
The cowl does have a couple of minor issues that niggle, but they are thankfully easy errors to fix. Firstly, the exhaust stubs barely protrude through the moulded holes. By my reckoning, and looking at endless photos, I figured that I would need around 1mm protrusion, or maybe a touch more. The way to fix this is to carefully thin the cowl plastic, from the inside. I did this with a curved No.15 scalpel blade. Test fitting to ensure the correct protrusion is important, as it is to be even along the length of the moulded exhaust part. Finally, a pointed blade was used to clean up the scrapings along the apertures. I will glue the exhausts in later. The other issue lies with the shape of the intake on the two small scoops at either side of the main radiator opening. These are a little more than semi-circular,
and they should be more or less circular when viewed from the front. A quick fix. Firstly, I made a little ‘v’ in the main cowl plastic, to allow an easier passage for a drill bit. A couple of drill bits were now used to open this up to the same diameter as the intake part has. We are merely opening up to a full circle of the same diameter. This will of course mean you will create a scooped channel in the main cowl halves. Looking at the photos of the real thing will confirm this. To finish these apertures, I applied small quantities of Perfect Plastic Putty and Mr Dissolved Putty, gently cleaning things with a sanding sponge. As the engine needed to be painted black before insertion within the cowl, and because the lower radiator design meant that the engine/cowl combo needed to be installed between the two
cowl halves before gluing, I decided to remove the radiator from the engine and glue it into the lower cowl first. I could now finally bring the cowl halves together with Tamiya Extra Thin Quick Setting cement. Seams were removed with sanding sticks and sponges, and a scriber and rivet tool used to reinstate the lost detail around the join. A small number of extra little vents were now added. The lower cowl plate with the bomb swing arm hinges, was now fitted, but the arm left off until after main painting. This would save on awkward masking. Another tip here is not to glue in the rear radiator plate. This can easily be painted later, and then slotted in once the scheme is applied. The same applies for the photo etch radiator intake plates I mentioned earlier. Lastly, the blackened engine is slotted into the cowl until it clicks into place.
The completed engine unit, with radiator fitted. Quite impressive, and would be neat to display on its own. It’s the only real option if you want to.
Sitting the engine within the cowl shows that the lower radiator unit can’t be fitted to the engine and then everything slide inwards. The rear of the radiator cowl is obstructed. I therefore remove the radiator unit from the engine, and will fit this into the cowl before I slide the engine unit into place.
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Drill bits and putty are used to correct the shape of the small intake apertures. Patience and care is required here. AIR Edition
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FEATURE ARTICLE Trumpeter 1:32 Junkers Ju 87 A Stuka • Kit No. 03213
Eduard’s BIG ED set comes in very useful for sprucing up the cockpit, and of course, the canopy masks are particularly appreciated for this particular aircraft.
COCKPIT
Out of box, the kit cockpit is actually quite nice in many areas, but sadly lacking in others. A few parts are a little simplified or are missing entirely. Thankfully, Eduard sent me their Ju 87 A BigED set, and some of their new Luftwaffe Steel Belts for the job. Fitting the photo-etch required very little modification to the cockpit, but what did mostly concerned minor details on the sidewalls. However, a good number of the parts were quite fiddly. A little patience was needed in order to ensure the parts folded correctly and didn’t flick off into the ether. I used a combination of Klear and thin viscosity CA to fit the various parts. The rudder pedals in the kit are just horrible – a seriously undersized and poor rendition of the real thing and even then they don’t represent the clunky looking early pedals that these machines used. Eduard’s photo-etched replacements were perfect, and also the correct size. PE wiring was added to the control column, and the ammo stanchions were replaced with metal parts. Other areas to benefit from bare photo-etch were the containers for the oxygen bottles, and the canister in the rear cockpit. A good number of other parts would later be fitted, but these were colour printed, and would be applied after painting. One of these is the multi-layer instrument panel. For this, the moulded plastic detail is removed from the plastic part. Plastic handles also needed to be removed from the numerous ammo saddles, and replaced with photoetched parts. If you look at various photos of the Ju 87 cockpit, you’ll see various wiring looms. To recreate these, I used fine fly tying lead wire, twisting various lengths together, and where necessary, dipping the loom in Klear to prevent the wires from bulging out when bending the loom. Finely cut masking tape was used, where required, for adding the bands that were used to form the looms. A small number of wires would be added later, as they would run between the sidewalls and the middle bulkhead. Two photo-etch radio chassis were added to this bulkhead, also with wiring. Their colour-printed fascias would soon be fitted. One area that I do feel is a little lacking is the omission of a forward bulkhead of some sort. In that area would be the viewing tunnel for the bomb release, but nonetheless, Trumpeter didn’t do a great job here, or on the rear bulkhead, which is simply a bare plate. With all canopies in place, this won’t be too much of a problem though. Gunze RLM02 is now airbrushed over all interior cockpit parts, and then a slightly darker mix, adding black, is applied to the various recesses and around the edge of details. I chose this make of paint as it was the closest to the coloured ink RLM02 of the
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Work begins by test fitting the various parts and removing some of the plastic details so that the photo-etch parts can be added.
Not a great place for ejector pin marks. Instead of filling them and sanding them, I simply drew the part over some abrasive paper a few times and they disappeared.
After a few sessions of installing photo-etch parts, I thought it a good time to test fit everything within the fuselage halves. Again, no problems encountered here.
Here you can see the extent of extra detail added to the cockpit interior, including a few lengths of lead wire. CA is used to secure this extra detail.
Gunze RLM02 is now airbrushed over the interior parts, making sure that the coat is solid.
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White and black are now added to the base colour, creating both highlights and lowlights around and on various details.
After having given the interior a coat of Klear, AK-Interactive’s Dark Brown wash is applied to the various details and then allowed to dry. The excess is then removed with a cotton bud.
Eduard parts. I now take a lightened version of RLM02, mixing with a touch of white, and apply this to more exposed areas. It all looks a little strange at this point, so to blend things together, a couple of lights coats of RLM02 are misted over everything. The effect is to make things look a little varied, adding both highlights and shadow to things, creating a more visually interesting appearance. For detail painting both the main cockpit components and the various smaller detail assemblies, I use numerous paints from Vallejo’s Folkestone Basic set, as well as Aluminium and Brass from the Mr Metal Color range. The Vallejo are mixed with just a drop of water to allow easy application with a fine brush, whilst the metallic paints are pre-thinned and brush surprisingly well straight from the jar. With all colour now generally in place, my paintwork is protected with a couple of fine coats of Klear, airbrushed straight from the bottle, using my Iwata HP-CH. I quite like Eduard’s colour-printed PE. Whilst some consider it either cheating, or negating the Another view of the cockpit, just prior to zipping everything together.
A final few misted coats of RLM02 now bring all the tones together and help to create something with more depth and visual interest.
Vallejo paints are hand-brushed onto the interior details using a fine tip Zoukeimura paintbrush.
Here we can see the internals, almost ready for assembly and installation. The Eduard colour PE is now added.
skills required to paint such details themselves, I actually quite like the approach. For kits such as this, with a pretty poor instrument panel and a distinct lack of other placard and panel detail, it’s a godsend. I could scratch build new IP details, but it wouldn’t leave me any better off than what Eduard produces for this kit. Firstly, the lower IP layer, with gauges, is affixed to the blank plastic panel. As the paintwork is all now gloss, the self-adhesive panel fits beautifully. The fascia and other components are now added, and the panel sat to one side whilst the other panels, levers and placards are now fitted. Without a doubt, things are certainly starting to look a little more purposeful. Note that to fit the radio faces, it was necessary to add a small plasticard spacer behind the fascia. Without this, it would’ve been recessed much too far. Eduard’s BIGED set also includes their colourprinted seatbelts. However, these won’t be used in this case, as Eduard has superseded these with their new range of Steel Belts, which look a little more
First I add some Tamiya weathering pastels to the interior, creating a little more light in areas that benefit, such as panel centres etc.
3D with shading, and are thinner and easier to manipulate. As they also sent these to me, it seems rude not to use them! As with many other PE parts, once these were carefully shaped to fit the two crew seats, they were secured with a few spots of CA. AK-Interactive’s Dark Brown wash was now applied as a pin wash to the various details and raised structures within the cockpit, and when dry, the excess was removed with a cotton bud. A couple of thin coats of Gunze H20 Flat Clear is now applied to the interior. Mixed 50:50 with Levelling Thinner, this imparts just the right amount of sheen. A mixture of both dry-brushing and also Tamiya Weathering set pastel is applied to the various components, highlighting their detail, including the edges of some of the raised structures on the cockpit walls. Micro Crystal Clear is applied to the instrument panel so as to give the impression of glass in the various gauges. Once this was cured, the cockpit was carefully assembled and put to one side.
Despite the mass intrusion of Eduard parts, everything goes together just as it should. Here you can see the complexity of the cockpit. Trumpeter did a great job of the base kit.
Finally, the cockpit tub assembly is fitted into the fuselage halves and the whole lot glued together.
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FEATURE ARTICLE Trumpeter 1:32 Junkers Ju 87 A Stuka • Kit No. 03213
Some details will invariably be lost due to sanding the seams. Lost panel lines are replaced with my fine MRP scriber tool, and an RB Productions rivet tool replaces the other lost details.
Here you can see the test fit of the major wing components. At this stage, I’m a little concerned that the outer panel fit, and a possible gap that runs down the joint.
The Ju 87 A only had a starboard wing gun, and the associated panels can be seen here.
Filler was needed to eradicate the port-side panels so no trace of them exists. I used Perfect Plastic Putty for this, and later re-scribed lost detail and added rivets.
Here you can see the stout centre section with the two spars and the pilot’s viewing window tunnel for bombing.
So, I had to tackle that joint between the centre section and outer wing panels. I made the decision to saw off the spars and then grind both mating surfaces over some medium grade abrasive paper.
The fit of those panels was now 100% better. Mr Dissolved Putty was used to touch up the joint, and the excess removed with isopropyl alcohol.
Assembly of the control surfaces is straightforward. It will require a little extra work to pose the elevators though, due to the connection of the actuation rods.
Fitting the wing highlighted a slight step in the rear joint on the underside. I mixed up a little Magic Sculp epoxy putty and smoothed this in with a wetted finger. After 24hrs, it was sanded down.
WINGS AND TAIL
Test fitting the outer panels to the centre section caused me some consternation. The fit was generally terrible, with gaps that seemed to emanate from the facing joints having seams running over them, causing an uneven mating surface. I could see only one way to fix this and that started with snipping off the protruding spars so that I could work on the mating surface, unhindered. Once these were removed, I carefully dragged the joint surfaces of the centre section, and the outboard panels, across a sheet of medium grade abrasive paper, ensuring that I kept the parts true as this was done. After about 10 minutes work, the outer panels were test fitted to the centre, and the gaps were almost gone. Tamiya Extra Thin cement was then run into the joints and the wings were then attached. A quick wingtip height check confirmed that the job was even, and with that, the wing was left to dry. As Trumpeter decided to make the joint along the curved plating on the crank, I first ran a little Mr Dissolved Putty along this and then used various sanding and polishing sponges to smooth the plate and remove the seam. Ju 87 tail planes stayed relatively unchanged over the years, and Trumpeter represents these as simple upper and lower parts, but with the benefit of a separate elevator, allowing dynamic
I quite like Trumpeter’s design for this famous cranked wing, but it’s certainly not without problems. A centre lower panel is fitted with two stout spars, and then the inboard port and starboard upper panels are glued in situ. At this point I add the viewing tunnel for the pilot. It was through this that the target would be viewed before the bomb was released. With this glued in place, I airbrushed RLM02 on both the outside and inside of this tunnel and when cured, added the internal and external windows to this. To be on the safe side, preventing any possible damage, I masked the external window for the remainder of construction and painting process. The outer wing panels are very straightforward as there aren’t any internals to fit, however, Trumpeter dropped the ball here. The Anton was only fitted with a gun in the starboard wing, and Trumpeter had panels for both wings. To fix this, the port side panels were glued in situ and then Perfect Plastic Putty was used as a filler. After sanding level, the wing panel lines that would pass over the bay, were reinstated with my MRP scribing tool and some Dymo tape acting as a guide. I added the missing rivets with my RB Productions pounce wheel rivet tool.
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posing, should you wish. Assembly is again straightforward, including the addition of the elevator actuators and the tip mass balance. There are two rudder options in this release. These are for the earlier square tipped rudder, and the later style curved version that appeared to make it onto later versions of the Stuka. For my purposes, it would be the early, square version that would be used on this Spanish-operated machine.
MAIN ASSEMBLY
Apart from the wing panel glitch, it’s certainly true that this model is generally quite straightforward to assemble. Within the fuselage, there are slots and keys into which the assembled cockpit tub will fit. Whilst this isn’t a snap-fit, it certainly doesn’t require glue on immediate assembly. Here, I simply popped the cockpit between the fuselage halves and then glued the fuselage together using Tamiya Extra Thin Cement. I like to put plenty into the joint so it melts properly and creates a slightly raised seam when done. Of course, this then allows effective sanding back when it comes to seam removal. I had to pop a few spots of CA into the a few areas, and then sand this flush. My MRP scriber was used to reinstate lost panel line detail, as well as my rivet tool.
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I think it was a wise move in trying to tackle the wing assembly first, before fitting the centre section to the fuse, with regard to the outer wing panel joints. This could’ve been awkward when connected to the fuselage, especially with a delicate cockpit in situ. One area of note here; there are two tabs on the front of the centre wing section/fuselage portion. These locate into the forward fuselage itself, but they push things out of alignment and would mean some radical filling being employed. Snip them off and the part fits perfectly. At this point, I noticed a small step in the underside joint between the wing and the fuse. A little Magic Sculp epoxy putty was mixed and then applied to the step. A good tip here is to paint a little cement onto the area where the putty will be applied. This reduces surface tension and therefore increases adhesion. This putty is great at being smoothed with a wet finger, and this is what I did to reduce sanding work. This putty must be left for 24hrs before sanding is attempted. To protect the surrounding detail, a little masking tape is added before the sanding commences. Once complete, my MRP scriber reinstates the panel line between the wing and fuse parts. Eduard’s PE set contains several levers that
need to be fitted to the instrument panel. With these attached, the panel was installed to the upper fuselage coaming, and this then fitted to the fuselage itself. Tamiya Flat Black was airbrushed over the engine and this was slid into the completed cowl. The cowl itself was now glued to the fuselage, as are the completed stabiliser assemblies. I thought this a good time to add the forward, rear and starboard canopy parts, simply to cordon off the cockpit detail and minimise the risk of damage. With these in place, Eduard’s masks were added to lessen the risk of these delicate parts being damaged. In between the front and rear cockpits, a fairing runs from port to starboard. I found this to be a little too short to span the halves, so a little plasticard shim was added to this and the problem solved. I also took the opportunity to fit the stabilisers, but for ease of painting, the struts were left off until later. Dive braked and a few other smaller details were added at this time.
A SPAT WITH THE SPATS
I’ve agonised over this area more than anything else to do with this project. Trumpeter didn’t get the shape correct on the bottom of the spats. They
represent it as a curve that runs from front to back, and in some photos, it does look like that, but I think it’s more to do with bad angles and lack of clarity. To correct the shape of this, I would need to cut away plastic that the struts would connect to. I did try to see if there was a way I could do this, but in the end I had to make the decision not to change anything, at least for the sake of my finishing this project for publication, and so I didn’t end up scrapping the work so far. Trumpeter include detail inside the spats, which is pretty pointless, but it’s there nonetheless. I also loathe rubber tyres, and this is what is in this kit. As I had no alternatives, I opted to begrudgingly use them. AK’s Xtreme Metal Aluminium was airbrushed over the assembled spat interiors and the gear struts, and MRP RLM66 over the main gear hubs. These were then fitted to the rubber tyres that had first has their seams reduced with successive grades of sanding sponge. Washes weren’t necessary for any of this work as it really can’t be seen. I opted to close up the spats here, and when the glue was cured, the seams were removed and panel line detail reinstated with my MRP scriber and Dymo tape. Now complete, the spats were fitted to the Ju 87, using Tamiya Extra Thin Quick Setting. To make things easier for painting, the large struts were left off the model until much later. A little Mr Dissolved Putty was needed around the spat – wing joint. Trumpeter used a common wing for this kit, designed for the later Stuka kits, so a little help is required in getting a perfect finish. Excess putty was removed using a cotton bud, dipped in Mr Levelling Thinner.
Details are provided for the inside of the spats. Totally unnecessary though, unless you modified the spats by cutting panels away for display.
The Anton is finally on her wheels, and looking quite the part. A strange, gangly looking aircraft.
Eduard’s canopy masks make short work of this onerous task, and they fit perfectly. RLM02 is then airbrushed over the frames.
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FEATURE ARTICLE Trumpeter 1:32 Junkers Ju 87 A Stuka • Kit No. 03213
PAINTING, MASKING AND WEATHERING
Masking the open canopy areas was a little tricky, but with this and the wheels masked off, RLM02 was airbrushed around the canopy area so the colour will be seen on the internal framework. A pre-shade of MRP Basic Black was applied to the model, concentrating on recesses and other engraved detail as well as panel lines. Scheme colours begin with the application of RLM65 to the lower surfaces, and a little around the top junction of the spats. This is applied in thin coats so that I could achieve the correct effect with the pre-shade. At the same time, this colour is applied to the spat and tail struts, to be fitted later. Using a little Gunze RLM65, which is darker, a very dilute mottle was applied to the undersides, breaking up the lighter MRP colour. The difference between the two RLM65 paints isn’t massive, but enough for me to be able to achieve the effect I wanted. Whilst I’m very much used to standard splinter application, this one was going to be a little different with three colours that aren’t commonly seen together. After roughly tracing the scheme in soft pencil, RLM63 was applied. Once cured, the model was semi-masked further and then the RLM62 was then applied. Further masking was now undertaken before I could apply the last splinter colour, RLM61, which being brown is of course the darkest. A mammoth unwrapping was now undertaken, and the final scheme was now laid bare. The MRP colours do lend themselves to a different appearance from other Condor Legion Ju 87 aircraft that I’d seen modelled, but having read so much material on these colours, I’m happy that the colours I have used are more or less accurate to how they were. Wing walkways were hand-painted with Vallejo Flat Black. As ever, I chose to go the difficult route and not to use the kit markings for my machine. I always wanted to depict an early Anton from the Spanish Civil War, so this is what I set out to do. My scheme info was sent to Kajetan Schulz of Copper State Models, who assembled the historical photo info on this specific machine. He found a lot of errors in contemporary illustrations of this aircraft, some wildly inaccurate. It was his findings that led to the splinter scheme layout seen here. Now though, it was onto airbrushing the markings with the masks that he had made for me. These were made as simple as possible for me, with the fuselage roundel and numbers being on one mask (as they were all one colour – black). The hardest point of any masking is getting the vinyl into the correct position. I used a piece of scrap vinyl to overlay the masks so I could carry them to the model in one piece. Once there, the carrier vinyl was removed and the surplus elements weeded out. Masking tape was then used to shield the surrounding paintwork before MRP Basic Black was applied. Adding the roundels to the wings was slightly more complicated. First, the roundels were applied and then the areas airbrushed in white. Next, the cross elements were carefully orientated and added into the white areas. Black was now airbrushed over the roundels. With all parts removed, the result is a black roundel with a white cross. Lastly, the unit emblem was applied to the port-side spat. This was the only location for this, and it was never seen on the opposite spat. Some decals were used on this model, namely the stencils that the kit supplied. Using a little
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MRP Basic Black is used to pre-shade the model.
MRP RLM65 is airbrushed over the lower surfaces. To break this up a little, Gunze RLM65, which is darker, is used to add a mottle to the surfaces.
I bring this model to you, sponsored by Tesa Tape. Masking the lower surfaces takes a good few hours to complete.
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MRP RLM63 is now applied to the model. This colour varies from what is typically depicted, but my own research over the last years shows this colour is pretty much on the nail.
After a partial masking, RLM62 is now applied to the model.
Some unmasking is needed here, and extra tape added before RLM61 can be airbrushed over the model.
Et voila! A rather mintcondition scheme is now in place, ready to be formally identified as Condor Legion.
All main colours are finally in place. The process of unmasking can finally begin.
A quick test fit of the propeller and pitot tube, just to satisfy myself of current progress. AIR Edition
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FEATURE ARTICLE Trumpeter 1:32 Junkers Ju 87 A Stuka • Kit No. 03213
Kajetan Schulz’s masks and decals arrived. Two sets in case I screw up. He knows me too well!
It was decided to make the emblems from decals due to the finicky nature of the individual elements.
MRP Basic Black was then used to paint the codes. Thin coats are required here, building them up slowly to solid colour.
Mr Mark Setter, these were carefully applied to the model. MRP dries with a smooth satin finish, so there was no need to gloss the model before application. Once left for a few hours, however, the model was then subjected to a few thin coats of Klear before I applied washes. AK-Interactive’s Dark Brown wash was first applied to the upper sides and allowed to dry. The excess was then removed with cotton buds, whilst ensuring that the residues were carefully worked
Marks were made on the vinyl transport film, so that I could properly position the roundels.
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The result is very attractive, as you can see.
into the surrounding paintwork, creating a change in the overall appearance. The same was done on the undersides, but once I’d removed the excess, a flat brush, dampened in white spirit, was used to lessen the effect and cause minor streaking in the direction of airflow.
FINISHING UP
I mixed Gunze H20 Flat Clear with 50% Mr Levelling Thinner, and airbrushed this over the
With the roundel film in position, the surrounding areas were again masked to protect them from my own enthusiasm.
Transport film is used to carry the cross portions of the markings to the roundel. Careful orientation is required here.
After placing the code and roundel mask on the fuselage, the surrounding area was masked to protect it from overspray.
MRP Basic Black is now airbrushed over the roundels.
model, building up the finish so that a faint sheen still remained, but the finish was mostly flat. Vallejo Flat Black was used to paint the exhaust stubs, and then Gunze Soot was heavily thinned and used to apply the exhaust staining in the same characteristic was that was evident on the period photos of the Anton. It’s important to build this up very slowly so as not to cause problems at such a late stage of work. A little Uschi van der Rosten Steel Pigment was then subtly applied to the protruding exhaust
MRP Basic White is now airbrushed into the roundels and allowed to dry.
The result is far better than a decal, and is of course how the real thing would be.
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Dark Brown wash is now used on panel lines and the small number of rivets that this model has.
The Anton is now seen after all markings and decals are applied.
Buffing the excess wash over the paintwork and blending things a little certainly helps transform the appearance of the model.
Early Stuka propellers were left in aluminium, but…
…ground crews in Spain painted the rear of them with black paint, so as to stop glare from them in the bright Spanish sun.
Some areas, such as the undersides and white rudder had their wash lessened with white spirit.
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FEATURE ARTICLE Trumpeter 1:32 Junkers Ju 87 A Stuka • Kit No. 03213
MODELSPEC Trumpeter 1:32 Junkers Ju 87 A Stuka
Kit No. 03213
Additional Items Used: Eduard BIG ED set #3351 Eduard Luftwaffe Bomber Steel Belts set #32873 Kajetan Schultz custom masks and decals Tools and Materials Used: Iwata HP-C+ airbrush & Smart Jet Pro compressor Swann Morton scalpel No. 15 & 11 MDC sanding sponges Albion Alloys sanding sticks MRP scribing tool, fine RB Productions rivet tool Dymo Tape Magic Sculp epoxy putty Tesa masking tape 5.5 Hold ‘n Fold Wilder pointed tweezers MX-BON 606 CA glue Tamiya Extra Thin Cement Tamiya Extra Thin Cement ‘Quick Setting’ Xuron sprue and PE cutters Allen Sydney micro drill bits Lead fly-tying wire Evergreen plasticard Elastic rigging cord
stubs. Finally, the canopy masks could be removed and the big reveal made! I had to use a cotton bud to remove a few marks that had been left by wash that had bled onto the transparent areas. The rear MG was now airbrushed in Gunze Dark Iron, and then buffed to a sheen. With the ammunition bad now painted in Tamiya Buff, the MG was installed into the rear cockpit and the gun sight added from photo-etch. I used black elastic thread for the aerial lines. The small insulator beads were created with blobs of white glue, painted black once set. For the bomb, Gunze Dark Sea Grey was first applied, and after a coat of hairspray, RLM83 was then airbrushed on. With a stiff brush and some warm water, the green was then gently rubbed away to reveal the undercoat. Stripes were added to the rear body of the bomb, using solid yellow decal sheet from Fantasy Printshop. Lastly, a wash was applied to the bomb and then it was matted down with H20 Flat Clear. It was then fastened to the bomb cradle before being secured to the model. The propellers on the early machines were a little
different in finish as they were left in aluminium. This was applied using AK-Interactive’s Xtreme Metal Aluminium. However, the rear of the blades were painted black by the ground crew so as to stop metallic glare in the Spanish sun. For this, I used Vallejo Flat Black. RLM63 was used on the rear part of the spinner, and MRP Basic White applied to the forward cone. The prop was now fitted to the model, along with the canopy parts and the strange looking early style pitot. In all, I’m quite pleased with how this one turned out. When you buy a kit as a basis for a project, the result you have in mind, versus the finished result, can vary wildly. For this, I achieved what I set out to create. My thanks to Eduard for their continued support, and to Kajetan Schulz at Copper State Models for the quick turnaround on my masks and decals, plus his work on assembling this scheme from dozens of historical photographs. Thanks too to the guys at MRP for providing the paints that breathe life into these projects. •
Paint and Weathering Products used: Mr Levelling Thinner Gunze RLM02, RLM83, RLM65, Black, White, H20 Flat Clear Vallejo Folkestone Basics paint set AMMO Faded Yellow MR Paint RLM61, 62, 63, 65, 78, 79, white, black, Aluminium Premi-Air Liquid Reamer airbrush cleaner AK-Interactive Dark Brown wash References: FalkeEins Blog http://falkeeins.blogspot.com Flugzeug Profile - Junkers Ju 87 A Stuka, Joachim Dressel & Manfred Griehl, 1991 Junkers Ju-87 Stuka Part 1 - the Early Variants A, B, C, and R, Manfred Griehl, 2006 Ju 87 Vol. I Monografie 25, Marek Murawski, Kagero Ju87 Stuka - Aircraft In Action 1073, Squadron Signal Nice, simple engineering, plenty of detail. No way to easily display engine; missing and inaccurate cockpit elements; some spat shape issues; cowl and exhaust apertures require modification. Rating: 7 out of 10 Trumpeter kits are available online and from model retailers worldwide.
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The glasshouse canopy after the masks have been removed. All that lovely detail may be displayed under the open canopy sections.
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The completed model. That twin pitot tube could do someone a mischief!
Bomb and cradle in place.
“Without a doubt, the Stuka is one of the world’s most recognisable aircraft with its inverted gull wings, gaping radiator intake, and large wheel spats...”
The different design of the nose and the large spats are very obvious from this angle.
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GALLERY Kawasaki Ki-61Id Hien • Kit No. 61115
AUTUMN SWALLOW The Editor presents a few photos of his Tamiya 1:48 scale Ki-61 Hien.
H
ere is Tamiya's new 1:48 scale Kawasaki Ki-61Id (Tei) Hien. The model was built straight from the box except for Eduard STEEL harness straps (lap only) and Lifelike Decals, 244th Sentai Part 3, Item No. 48005(R). This is a typical Tamiya 1:48 scale new release - good detail in the cockpit and wheel wells, straightforward parts breakdown with control surfaces moulded with the wings and tail planes, beautifully restrained surface textures and perfect fit. The model was a joy to work on. I chose not to use the optional clear fuselage half, although I did
build and paint the basic engine. I wanted to finish my Hien in the late-war YellowGreen shade, which when fresh was similar to US Olive Drab. I used Mr Color 23 Dark Green (2) RAF Aircraft for this elusive shade. It looks like no RAF colour I've ever seen, but it does look pretty good as a mildly faded Olive Drab! There will be a detailed write-up of this model in a future issue of Tamiya Model Magazine International. • Tamiya kits are distributed in the UK by The Hobby Company Limited www.hobbyco.net
Tamiya’s model captures the graceful lines of this Japanese fighter beautifully.
Weathering was kept subtle for this project.
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FEATURE ARTICLE Red Roo Models 1:48 CAC CA-25 Winjeel Trainer • Kit No.RRK48002
YOUNG EAGLE
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Brett Green builds Red Roo Models’ resin 1:48 scale Winjeel, an Australian designed military trainer of the 1950s and 1960s.
Red Roo’s 1:48 scale Winjeel is packed in a sturdy cardboard box.
T
he CAC CA-25 Winjeel is an Australiandesigned and manufactured three-seat training aircraft. Entering service with the Royal Australian Air Force (RAAF) in 1955 as a basic to advanced trainer, it served in this role until 1975. Later, it was used in the Forward Air Control (FAC) role for target marking until 1994, after which it was retired from RAAF service. The Winjeel (Aboriginal for "young eagle") was developed by the Commonwealth Aircraft Corporation at Fishermans Bend in Victoria to satisy RAAF technical requirement No.AC.77 issued in 1948. Designed to replace both the Tiger Moth and the CAC Wirraway, the first two prototype CA-22 aircraft were flown in February 1951. However, it proved a very stable aircraft making it almost impossible to spin, and with this being a required part of pilot training the tail had to be redesigned as a result. Sixty two production CA-25 aircraft were subsequently built and given the fleet serials A85401 to A85-462. The first aircraft flew in February 1955, and deliveries began that September. The first Winjeel entered service with No. 1 Basic Flight Training School (1 BFTS) at Uranquinty, near Wagga Wagga, New South Wales. The last aircraft was delivered in August 1957. For most of its service life, the Winjeel was used as a basic trainer at RAAF Base Point Cook in Victoria, after 1 BFTS was transferred there in 1958. The Winjeel remained in service with the RAAF as a basic trainer until 1968, when the Macchi MB-326 replaced it in this role as part of the RAAF's adoption of an "all through" jet training concept. The failure of this concept ultimately ensured that the Winjeel was retained in the training role until 1975 when it was replaced by the CT/4A Airtrainer. After this, a few Winjeels were used in the Forward Air Control (FAC) role. Initially operated by No. 4 Flight, they were equipped with smoke bombs for target marking. By 1994 there were 14 in service with No. 76 Squadron based at RAAF Base Williamtown, but later that year they were replaced by the Pilatus PC-9 and subsequently retired. Examples of the aircraft remain in flying condition in private ownership as well as museum displays around Australia.*
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FEATURE ARTICLE Red Roo Models 1:48 CAC CA-25 Winjeel Trainer • Kit No.RRK48002
RED ROO’S 1:48 WINJEEL IN THE BOX
Until now, the only 1:48 scale CA-25 Winjeel was the crude resin kit from NKR dating from the 1980s. This model featured rough basic castings with no surface detail, and much of the detail was left to the modeller to provide. Fast forward to 2016 and Red Roo Models has now released a thoroughly modern 1:48 CA-25 Winjeel. The kit comprises 51 parts in grey-green coloured resin, six parts in clear resin, four parts in white metal, 64 photo-etched parts on one fret, two vacform canopies (one canopy plus a spare), decals for six marking options and a reference CD. The resin parts are top quality - beautifully cast and featuring crisp, consistent recessed panel lines. The fuselage halves and wings are ready to use almost straight from the box. You'll just need to clean up the wisps of fine resin waste on the edges of the fuselage. The wings are cast as a single full-span part. The horizintal tail planes are also cast as a single part with the elevators set at neutral, and the fin is a separate part. The one-piece cowl is cast onto a block via a circular strip. In common with the other parts, removal and cleanup should not present any challenges if you are armed with a razor saw and a sharp hobby knife. Interior detail is supplied via separate seats, instrument panel, alternative instrument panels (for trainer and FAC versions), rudder pedals, control columns, side consoles, photo-etched throttles and handles, and sidewall detail cast to the inside of the fuselage sides. The instrument panel features a blank resin section with a sandwich of printed acetate instruments and a photo-etched panel face, but my sample also includes an alternative resin panel (not mentioned in the instructions) for the trainer version with raised and recessed resin detail. This looks quite nice although I decided to use the photo-etched option myself. The photo-etched fret also adds harness straps and other detail parts to the interior. The large canopy is supplied as a crystal clear vacform part. A spare is offered in case of slipups. Separate parts for internal framework are also included. The engine is well detailed with separate cylinders, exhaust collector and photo-etched ignition harness. The undercarriage legs are cast in white metal. Alternative white metal tail wheel assemblies are offered with either the solid anti-shimmy wheel or the regular pneumatic tyre. Beacons and leading edge landing lights are supplied in clear resin, although you'll need to cut out the solid cast landing light from the leading edge before installing the clear parts. The impressive package is rounded out with a reference CD that comprises hundreds of useful photos broken down by function and category. A. Light resin flash is present on the fuselage half, but clean-up is fast and easy. B. Structural detail is cast onto the insides of the fuselage halves. C. The cockpit floor is cast as part of the full-span wing. D. Tail planes and engine cowling. E. Cockpit and engine parts. F. External and more cockpit parts. G. A soare vacuum formed canopy is supplied in case of slip-ups. H. Six clear resin parts include beacons and landing lights. I. Main undercarriage legs and tail wheels are cast in white metal. J. Additional detail parts on the kit’s photo-etched fret. K. Six marking options are offered on the decal sheet. L. A CD includes the instructions and extensive reference photos.
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MARKING OPTIONS
Red Roo offers six aircraft on the decal sheet, covering four varied schemes: • A85-401 in olverall aluminium lacquer paint with narrow yellow trainder bands on the fuselage and wings. • A85-443 in the Fanta Can scheme of bright orange, white and panted aluminium. • A85-450 in overall aluminium lacquer paint with orange nose, vertical fin and panels on the outer wing and horizontal tail planes. • A85-405 in overall aluminium lacquer paint with orange nose, vertical fin and panels on he outer wing and horizontal tail planes. • A85-438 in overall aluminium lacquer paint with orange nose, vertical fin and panels on he outer wing and horizontal tail planes. • A85-426 in FAC scheme of Olive Drab and Extra Dark Sea Grey upper surfaces over Light Gull Grey lower surfaces. Decals are excellent quality, glossy and in perfect register. Black wing walkways and yellow trainer stripes are provided as decals. Complete stencil markings are also included.
The large resin plug was removed from the engine cowling using a razor saw.
The horizontal tail planes were cut from their casting strip using a new hobby blade.
Holes were drilled at the front and rear of the horizontal tail planes.
PREPARATION
In my opinion, the two most important elements of building an all-resin kit are thorough preparation and test fitting. I carefully looked over the parts and the instructions before committing to clean-up. I thought that the trickiest areas might be preparing the onepiece engine cowl, which had a large resin plug in the opening; and securing the tail planes, which featured a separate fin that basically just perches on top of the horizontal tail planes. I started by cutting the plug off the front of the cowling with a razor saw. My method here was to cut through a short section then reposition the saw a bit further along the circumference of the plug. Within a few minues (and about four re-positionings), the plug came free. The result was a nice circular opening that just needed a bit of tidying up with sanding sticks and sandpaper. Next up was the tail planes. I was concerned that the join would be weak as designed, so I decided to reinforce this area. I removed the horizontal tail planes from their casting strip with a new hobby blade, then cleaned up the leading edge with a sanding stick. The fin’s casting strip was quickly dispatched at this time too. Using a pin vise and a fine bit, I drilled holes at the front and at the rear of the short locating slot on the top of the horizontal tail planes. This resulted in two nice clean holes in the bottom centre section of the horizontal tail planes. Next, I applied two small spots of super glue to the base of the fin to temporarily tack this piece to the horizontal tail plane. After the super glue had set, I drilled back up through both holes in the horizontal tailplanes until I had penetrated the base of the fin. I snapped the fin off the horizontal tail planes and glued short sections of brass rods into the holes in the base of the fin. This was then glued securely and permanently into the holes in the horizontal tail planes. At this stage I removed all the other resin parts from their blocks and strips, and cleaned up any residue with sanding sticks and polishing cloths. The fuselage halves, the newly reinforced tail planes and the wings were test fitted. Everything looked very promising at this point so I proceeded.
The fin was temporarily tacked to the top of the horizontal tail planes with two small spots of super glue.
The holes were re-drilled from underneath until they penetrated the base of the fin.
The fin was snapped off and lengths of brass rod were glued in place to reinforce the join.
The tail assembly was test fitted to the fuselage. Fit was good.
The fit between the resin fuselage halves was excellent too, even without glue. AIR Edition
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FEATURE ARTICLE Red Roo Models 1:48 CAC CA-25 Winjeel Trainer • Kit No.RRK48002
Resin cockpit elements.
Engine and propeller parts.
Main wheels and exterior part.
Parts were grouped together according to the colours that they would be painted. These parts will be painted in RAAF Interior Green.
These parts will be initially sprayed Tamiya AS-12 Silver straight from the spray can.
ASSEMBLY
The model was assembled in the sequence outlined in the instructions and was generally trouble free. The one noteable exception was the cockpit. This is quite nicely detailed, including seats, consoles, optional resin or photo-etched instrument panels, rudder pedal bars, control sticks and roll bar. The elements appeared to fit when they were test-fitted to the floor, which is simply the centre section of the solid full-span wing, but things started to go pear-shaped when I offered the wing to the assembled fuselage halves. The cockpit parts that had been glued in place seriously interfered with the fit of the fuselage sides. I had to trim down the edges of cockpit parts, and eventually I actually carved off the consoles cast to each side of the fuselage interior. This was to no avail though, as the seats and centre console were still too wide to fit. In the end, I glued the two front seats side-byside. I then cut the forward section of the centre console off and glued it between the instrument panel and the front of the seats. This isn’t accurate, but it’s the best I could come up with. Once the cockpit problems were by-passed, the balance of assembly was fast and straightforward. The major components were secured with super glue. Fit was generally very good, with the only serious gaps being around the empennage underneath the horizontal tail planes. These gaps and a few other smaller steps were filled with Milliput White two-part epoxy putty.
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The area surrounding the cockpit floor was masked before priming and painting.
Canopy rails were cut from plastic strip and glued in place.
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The garish interior shade is Gunze’s acrylic H26 Bright Green.
Masking tape was used to paint other colours in the cockpit.
The seat cushions and the harness straps are different shades of blue, adding to the colourful palette of the Winjeel cockpit. The cockpit floor with detail parts in place.
Photo-etched parts were sprayed and masked while they were still on the fret.
Cockpit sidewalls with shading and dry-brushing complete.
“Until now, the only 1:48 scale CA-25 Winjeel was the crude resin kit from NKR dating from the 1980s...”
The fuselage halves were glued together before the wings were added.
The fuselage fits on the wing saddle. A number of cockpit elements had to be removed (most notably all the seats) and trimmed to allow the fuselage to fit. AIR Edition
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FEATURE ARTICLE Red Roo Models 1:48 CAC CA-25 Winjeel Trainer • Kit No.RRK48002
A few gaps remained underneath the horizontal tail planes.
Fit of the major components was generally very good...
…but significant changes need to be made inside the cockpit to allow the parts to fit. The scarring left after the seats and other parts were removed may be clearly seen here.
Gaps and steps were filled using Milliput two-part epoxy putty.
Tamiya masking tape was used to limit the extent of the putty.
Tape removed and putty sanded down.
The putty on the upper surfaces.
The completed engine including the photo-etched pushrods. Engine elements painted and weathered.
The cylinders feature really lovely detail moulded in place. I left these on their casting strip during painting and weathering.
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The engine fitted to the front of the firewall.
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The engine cowling fits well. Note that I blanked off the side vents from the inside before fitting the cowl.
PAINTING AND MARKINGS
Red Roo offers six varied and interesting schemes for their Winjeel. It was a tough choice – I really liked the camouflaged FAC aircraft, but in the end I could not resist the orange, white and silver option, dubbed the Fanta Scheme for obvious reasons. The entire model was prepared with a coat of Tamiya’s Grey Primer straight from the can. A few blemishes were sanded back before re-priming. The whole model was now sprayed with two coats of Tamiya’s Fine White Primer, then the sections that would remain white were masked with Tamiya tape. Next up was the orange coat. This was a 50/50 mix of Gunze’s Mr Color 58 Orange Yellow and 173 Fluorescent Orange. In the end, I think it looks a bit too Day-Glo-ish, whereas it should really be a true orange, but it’s probably close enough for a
The cockpit opening was masked off with Tamiya tape.
first attempt. A second layer of masking was applied before the remaining exposed surfaces were sprayed with Tamiya AS-12 Bare Metal Silver. The third layer of masking prepared for painting the black anti-glare panel. Removing the masking tape reveals the striking contrast of the Fanta scheme and a large ball of left over masking tape! The decals performed well but the white sections of the roundels were a bit translucent.
VACFORM CANOPY
The canopy was cut from its vacform base. Black Dymo tape was used as a guide to the knife. The canopy was masked using strips and lengths of Tamiya masking tape and glued in place when complete.
The cowl opening was blanked off with a shallow cone of paper.
When I looked at photos of my completed Winjeel I realised that the canopy was riding high and just looked generally untidy. I decided to pop the canopy off and fix the problem. It had been secured with two-part epoxy, but it came off cleanly and I could scrape off the epoxy without damaging the paint I cut and sanded the bottom of the vac form canopy - not ideal after it has been painted - but luck was on my side and once again the paintwork was undamaged. I re-epoxied the canopy to the rails and, hey presto, it looks much better! The metal undercarriage legs were secured with Super Glue. They have broken off a few times under the weight of the resin model and its solid wings.
Rectangular sections of the wing leading edges were cut out and the clear resin landing lights fitted. The clear covers were masked off. AIR Edition
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FEATURE ARTICLE Red Roo Models 1:48 CAC CA-25 Winjeel Trainer • Kit No.RRK48002
A. The entire model was sprayed with Tamiya’s Grey Primer straight from the can. B. A few blemishes were sanded back before re-priming. C. The whole model was now sprayed with two coats of Tamiya’s Fine White Primer, then the sections that would remain white were masked with Tamiya tape. D. Next up was the orange coat. This was a 50/50 mix of Gunze’s Mr Color 58 Orange Yellow and 173 Fluorescent Orange. E. A second layer of masking was applied before… F. …the remaining exposed surfaces were sprayed with Tamiya AS-12 Bare Metal Silver. G. The third layer of masking prepared for painting the black anti-glare panel.
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Removing the masking tape reveals the striking contrast of the Fanta scheme…
…and a large ball of left over masking tape!
The canopy was cut from its vacform base. Black Dymo tape was used as a guide to the knife.
The canopy was masked using strips and lengths of Tamiya masking tape.
The silver sections were masked off so the remainder of the airframe may receive a coat of Alclad II Flat Clear Lacquer Finish over the decals.
AIR Edition
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FEATURE ARTICLE Red Roo Models 1:48 CAC CA-25 Winjeel Trainer • Kit No.RRK48002
CONCLUSION
The Winjeel holds an important place in Australian aviation history. It is great to see a new model of this long-serving aircraft on the market. Red Roo's 1:48 scale CA-25 Winjeel is a very high quality offering that makes excellent use of its mutlimedia parts. The parts breakdown is quite straightforward, making it suitable for modellers who have built only a few multimedia kits before. The marking schemes are colourful and varied too. At AUD$130.00 it is not cheap, but Red Roo supplies everything in the box to deliver a highly detailed and accurate Winjeel model, including reference. If you want a complete collection of RAAF aircraft in 1:48 scale, you are one step closer with Red Roo Models' CA-25 Winjeel. Highly Recommended. •
MODELSPEC Red Roo Models 1:48 CAC CA-25 Winjeel Trainer Kit No.RRK48002 Tools and Modelling Products Used: Selley’s Super Glue Gator’s Grip Acrylic Glue Milliput Fine White Two-Part Epoxy Putty Tamiya Surfacer Zip Kicker (super glue accelerator) Tamiya Masking Tape Iwata HP-CH and HP-CP airbrushes
The decals performed well but the white sections of the roundels were a bit translucent.
Paints and Finishing Products Used: - Mr Hobby Mr Color Lacquers – 58 Orange Yellow; 173 Fluorescent Orange. - Tamiya (acrylic): X-18 Semi-Gloss Black; XF-1 Flat Black; XF-2 Flat White; XF-7 Flat Red; XF-20 Medium Grey; XF-64 Red Brown. - Gunze Sangyo Aqueous Hobby Color – H26 Bright Green - Tamiya Spray Can – Grey Primer; White Primer; AS-12 Bare Metal Silver. - Mr Hobby Mr Color Leveling Thinner 400. - Vallejo Model Color (acrylic): 70809 Royal Blue; 70844 Deep Sky Blue; 70865 Oily Steel; 919 Foundation White; 70953 Flat Yellow; 70957 Flat Red; 70950 Black - Vallejo Panzer Aces (acrylic): 337 Highlight Ger. (Black) - Alclad II Flat Clear Lacquer Finish - Solvaset decal setting solution - Winsor & Newton Oil Paint: Raw Umber; Lamp Black - Tamiya Weathering Pastels Set A - Future Floor Polish
The metal undercarriage legs were secured with Super Glue. They have already broken off a few times under the weight of the resin model and its solid wings!
Fine crisp surface textures including recessed panel lines; good level of detail; useful photo-etched details; good quality vacform canopy with spare; generally good fit. Interior components too wide for fuselage. Rating: 8 out of 10 Thanks to Red Roo Models for the sample Red Roo Model kits are available online from their website www.redroomodels.com
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“If you want a complete collection of RAAF aircraft in 1:48 scale, you are one step closer with Red Roo Models' CA-25 Winjeel...”
I popped the canopy off and cut down the height of the sill before gluing it back on using two-part epoxy adhesive.
The whip aerial was cut from a length of stretched sprue.
AIR Edition
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FEATURE ARTICLE Kinetic Model Kits 1:48 McDonnell Douglas F/A-18C Hornet • Kit No. K48031
FLEET STINGER
Mick Evans analyses and builds Kinetic’s 1:48 scale F/A-18C Hornet.
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he F/A-18C is a later version of the original F/A-18A variant and is the result of a block upgrade in 1987 incorporating upgraded radar, avionics, and the capacity to carry new missiles such as the AIM-120 AMRAAM airto-air missile and AGM-65 Maverick and AGM-84 Harpoon air-to-surface missiles. Upgrades include the Martin-Baker NACES (Navy Aircrew Common Ejection Seat), and a self-protection jammer. A synthetic aperture ground mapping radar enables the pilot to locate targets in poor visibility conditions. Aircraft delivered since 1989 also have improved night attack abilities, consisting of the Hughes AN/AAR-50 thermal navigation pod, the Loral AN/AAS-38 NITE Hawk FLIR (forward looking infrared array) targeting pod, night vision goggles, and two full-colour (formerly monochrome) multi-function display (MFDs) and a colour moving map. (Wikipedia)
IN THE BOX
This new kits from Kinetic has been highly anticipated for some time now and is a worthy replacement for the aged Hasegawa Hornet family first released some 25 years ago. The kit contains approximately 280 light grey injection moulded parts, 17 clear parts and 22 photo-etched metal parts. The moulding in this kit needs to be seen to be believed, currently I would doubt if there is a better kit manufacturer on the market. The fuselage is a horizontal two one piece halves construction with the upper fuselage containing the upper wing surfaces to which is added the lower wings and optional nose sections. The intakes are well done having full intake ducting back to the engine compressor face, a big plus. Full length after-burner cans are also provided with some very nice internal detail. Here is my only criticism of this kit. Kinetic only provide closed engine nozzles and Hornets very commonly shut down with one closed and one open, but if that is all I have to complain about with this kit then I can live it. The cockpit is made up from 27 parts with adequate detail not to need a replacement aftermarket resin set. A two seat F/A-18D is obviously on the horizon as the cockpit tub is a two seat tub but no other two seat parts are provided. A separate speed brake is provided but most of the time when a Hornet is on the ground the speed brake is closed, but up to the modeller’s discretion for posing. The wheel wells look good with all the prevalent plumbing and structure detail that is evident in the wheel well. The nose wheel well detail looks great as does the undercarriage legs and doors
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and includes some etched metal plumbing to be fitted. The wheels are typical of Kinetic construction having separate hubs that are sandwiched between the tyre halves making them easy to paint without masking. The undercarriage is nicely detailed and is much better than the Hasegawa kit. The undercarriage is the heavier carrier gear so anyone wishing to build an Australian Hornet will need to modify the main gear or maybe Kinetic will address this when they release an F/A-18A kit. This is the same for the tail fins which have the extra ECM fairings fitted so these will need to be modified if Kinetic do not provide the earlier fins. The earlier fins also have reinforcement brackets and plates fitted. Kinetic also provide separate leading edge and trailing edge flaps along with actuator covers for either streamlined or drooped. The outer wing panels are also provided as separate parts allowing for them to be displayed in the folded or extended configuration. First you have to cut off and discard the moulded on outer wing panels. Also provided to attach the outer wing panels are very nice wing hinge assemblies making aftermarket parts redundant. An extended air to air refuel probe is also provided for those who wish to display it in the extended position. Alternate ECS exhaust outlets are provided so you will need to check your references for these. All of the correct antennas are provided as are nicely etched metal chaff and flare dispensers. Three external fuel tanks are also supplied allowing for a three tank configuration.
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The upper fuselage and wings are moulded as a single flat pancake.
Surface detail is crisp and fine.
“This new kit from Kinetic has been highly anticipated for some time now and is a worthy replacement for the aged Hasegawa Hornet family first released some 25 years ago...” AIR Edition
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FEATURE ARTICLE Kinetic Model Kits 1:48 McDonnell Douglas F/A-18C Hornet • Kit No. K48031
The lower fuselage tub.
Rockets…
Nose wheel detail is moulded into the lower fuselage.
…and guided bombs.
The stores supplied for this kit is extensive with the following supplied: • 2 x AIM 7M Sparrow Air to Air Missiles • 2 x AIM 120B AMRAAM Air to Air Missiles • 2 x AIM 120B AMRAAM Air to Air Missiles • 2 x AIM 9L Sidewinder Air to Air Missiles • 2 x AIM 9X Sidewinder Air to Air Missiles (Not used) • 2 x GBU 87 cluster bombs • 2 x GBU-12 Laser guided bombs • 2 x GBU-38 Bombs • 2 x AGM -88 Harm anti-radiation missiles • 1 x AAQ-28 Litening pod • 1 x AAS-38 FLIR Pod • 1 x AN/AAQ -33 Sniper XR laser pod • 2 x Vertical ejector racks (VER) The transparencies look great and are crystal clear. Most importantly they are the correct shape.
MARKINGS
Seven schemes are provided on the large and colourful decal sheet, printed by Cartograf and designed by Fightertown Decals. The markings supplied are as follows: • F/A-18C 164266 of VFA-25 “Fists of the Fleet” of the United States Navy, aboard the CVW-17 USS Carl Vinson in 2011 • F/A-18C 164250 of VF-87 “Golden Warriors” of the United States Navy, aboard the CVW-8 USS George Bush in 2013 • F/A-18C 163746 of NSAWC of the United States
“C”-style vertical stabs.
The single-seat canopy.
Navy in the “Russian Splendor” scheme in 2009 • F/A-18C 163754 of NSAWC of the United States Navy in the “Sukoi Blue” scheme in 2009 • F/A-18C 163746 of NSAWC of the United States Navy in the “Russian Splendor” scheme in 2009 • F/A-18C 163746 of NSADC of the United States Navy in 2016 • F/A-18C J-5014 of the Swiss Air Force 2014 • F/A-18C HN-457 of the Finish Air Force in 2006 A second decal sheet is supplied for the weapons. Both decal sheets are printed perfectly in register and colours look great.
CONSTRUCTION
As I thought the engineering for this kit is superb with my only minor issue being the forward to rear fuselage join. The remainder of the joints being basically on a panel line or hidden under further assemblies. The cockpit has sufficient detail with nicely embossed instrument panel and side panels provided. A Martin Baker NACES ejection seat is provided with etched parachute harness provide. I chose to replace this with an after-market seat from Aires just to increase the detail. Ejection seats are highly visible when the canopy is open and extremely busy with detail which is hard to capture in plastic. I used some subtle dry brushing to highlight the panel detail. I did have some trouble with locating the intake
Inner surfaces.
Windscreen and smaller clear parts.
trunking positively in place but this could have been my own fault with the build. The big plus here is the intakes themselves fit much better than the older Hasegawa and Hobby Boss kits. Full length afterburner cans are also provided with some very nice internal detail. A separate speed brake is provided but most of the time when a Hornet is on the ground the speed brake is closed so in this case I positioned it closed. If the folded wing option is to be used then the outer wing panels are provided as complete separate parts to replace the moulded outer wing sections. This is an improvement over the earlier Kinetic Etendard kit where the outer wing sections are supplied separately and do not fit well and they are very fragile when fitted in the extended position. First you need to cut off and discard the moulded on outer wing panels. I found this very easy as the cut line is well defined and has been moulded to be very thin. A sharp knife was all that was needed. To attach the outer wing panels you need to first glue the very nice wing hinge assemblies to the inner wing joint. Once fully assemble the outer wing fits into the folded position with a positive lock and needs no jig to hold it in place while the glue sets. Small etched metal parts are proved for the moving cover panels on the hinge. Kinetic provide separate leading edge and trailing edge flaps along with actuator covers for either streamlined or dropped
The decals went on superbly and the finished model looks great.
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The wing outer sections for the “wings folded” option.
Nice detail inside the main wheel wells.
Full length intake trunking is included.
Plenty of stores are supplied.
The decals are perfectly printed by Cartograf. Comprehensive stencils are provided for the ordnance.
The impressive markings were designed by Fightertown.
The kit’s photo-etched fret.
position. I chose the dropped option and once again these fitted very positively and are not fragile in any way. I chose to use the extended air to air refuel probe and once again the detail is great with no extra cutting or after-market required. I chose to fit two external fuel tanks along with some of the stores supplied in the as follows: • 2 x AIM 120B AMRAAM Air to Air Missiles • 2 x AIM 9L Sidewinder Air to Air Missiles • 2 x 2 x GBU-12 Laser guided bombs • 1 x FLIR Pod The stores pylons are another plus as they fit securely and positively and have separate stores anti-sway braces. The transparencies are great and are crystal clear; most importantly the opened canopy fits positively and does not need to be held in place why the glue sets.
PAINTING AND MARKINGS
I procrastinated for a while over the finish of this kit as there are some really nice schemes included. In the end I chose to paint it in the colours of 164266
of VFA-25 “Fists of the Fleet” of the United States Navy, aboard the CVW-17 USS Carl Vinson in 2011. The paints used were Xtracolor enamels. The decals went on superbly and the finished model looks great. I chose not to weather the aircraft or do any pre-shading. While I like the look of pre-shading I am a bit of a traditionalist, we don’t pre-shade the real aircraft s why would I do it to a model, unless I wanted to heavily weather it. I like the just out of the paint shop look which is my personal choice. Bearing this in mind though, after a few months of service a Hornet looks filthy and drab.
CONCLUSION
Kinetic has produced a superb kit of the F/A-18C Hornet and a vast improvement over the earlier Hasegawa and Hobby Boss kits with very little that I can complain about. Now that I have built this kit and have seen how it assembles, I can say it is a breeze. If this is the new standard of moulding for Kinetic then the other manufacturers need to look out as this is a superb kit on all counts. •
MODELSPEC Kinetic Model Kits 1:48 McDonnell Douglas F/A-18C Hornet Kit No. K48031 Accessories Used: Aires Martin Baker NACES ejection seat Paints and Finishing Products: Xtracolor enamels Highly detailed; much easier to build than Hasegawa kit; many useful options. Open nozzles not provided; tricky trunking positioning. Rating: 8.5 out of 10 Kinetic Model Kits are available online from Lucky Model www.luckymodel.com
Kinetic has produced a superb kit of the F/A-18C Hornet and a vast improvement over the earlier Hasegawa and Hobby Boss kits
I chose to use the extended air to air refuel probe
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FEATURE ARTICLE Wingsy Kits 1:48 A5M2b Claude (Late Version) • Kit No. D5-01
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Kamil Feliks Sztarbala adds detail and weathering to Wingsy Kits’ beand new 1:48 scale A5M2b Claude.
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he Mitsubishi A5M, formal Japanese Navy designation Mitsubishi Navy Type 96 Carrierbased Fighter was a Japanese carrier-based fighter aircraft. It was the world's first monoplane shipboard fighter to enter service and the direct predecessor of the famous Mitsubishi A6M "Zero". The Allied reporting name was Claude. The A5M2b Model 22 was the first production version, featuring a low drag cowling and 477 kW (640 hp) Kotobuki 3 engine.*
WHAT’S IN THE BOX?
Wingsy Kits is a new player on the modelling scene. This Ukrainian company has been teasing us with CAD renders and photos of pre-production sprues of a 1:48 scale A5M2b kit for almost half a year, and it must be emphasized that these images looked very promising. Just before Christmas, the quarter-scale ‘Claude’ was finally released. In short, it did not only meet the expectations, but managed to exceed them! The artwork and box design itself are nice and tidy. It will certainly stand out amongst others on the shop shelves. The contents are packed in a zip bag, which is placed inside a solid, folder-type cardboard box. Upon opening the bag, we find six sprues made of grey plastic, one clear sprue, a photo-etched fret, a decal sheet and a black and white assembly manual. The latter is very clear. Its designer did not try to copy the layout styles used by some of the top brands on the market, but instead he created a simple and useful guide for the modeller. The painting and decaling instructions are also supplied in black and white, which isn’t a big deal considering that each of the presented aircraft carries a natural metal finish, with red empennage and blue-black engine cowling. We are provided with colour reference for the Mr.Hobby ranges (both Mr.Color and Aqueous Hobby Color). The decal sheet contains individual markings for four ‘Claudes’, one set of national insignia, an instrument panel decal and some stencils. Its printing quality does not raise any concerns. As will be proven later, they also work well with Microscale decal solutions. A closer look at the sprues makes a truly great impression. The panel line and rivet detail are subtle, but very distinct and sharp at the same time. Most of the parts are really finely detailed and aren’t affected by any moulding flaws. The plastic engine is so well represented that there’s no reason to look for any resin replacements. The clear parts are perhaps not the thinnest out there, but their thickness does not affect their clarity. The photo-etched fret is quite small, but nicely supplements the plastic parts, leaving little room for any aftermarket detail set manufacturer. We get the seat belts, an instrument panel (supplemented by an acetate sheet with the instrument dials), and a few more cockpit and exterior details. AIR Edition
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FEATURE ARTICLE Wingsy Kits 1:48 A5M2b Claude (Late Version) • Kit No. D5-01
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Construction 1: I started construction by soldering the seat belts. The latter are built from several pieces, which would probably break whilst forming and shaping, if I was to use glue for their assembly. On the other hand, soldering allows us to create both a stronger and more flexible junction. 2: The seat itself required a little attention. The real piece was a pressed sheet metal stamping, and this wasn’t represented particularly well. 3: Using various milling bits, I thinned down the walls of the seat, mainly focusing on their edges. The surface was subsequently smoothed by ‘painting’ it with a little Tamiya Extra Thin Cement. 4: This allowed me to attach the seat belts. However, I didn’t fold them at this stage, as this would interfere with paintwork. 5: To easily mount the seat’s wire support, I had to create a groove in the rollers that support it. 6: Next, I made the wire support from a length of thin string. This was hung over the rollers and glued to the seat frame in the appropriate places.
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7: The floor was fitted with all but one plastic and photo-etched detail. It was handier to install the small window after the painting stage. 8: Even though the metal machine gun barrels from Master Model will be invisible in the finished kit, their use allowed me to save time that I would otherwise need to spend on improving their plastic counterparts. What’s more, they simply look the part. 9: I then glued the guns and all other details, minus the instrument panel, to the forward wall of the cockpit. 10: Afterwards, I painted the rear side of the acetate sheet that contains the instrument dials, and subsequently fixed it between the photo-etched panel
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and its plastic base. The edges of the panel had to be puttied with a little super glue in order to hide the signs that the entire part was built up from layers. 11: This forced me to mask the instrument faces. I stuck a length of Tamiya tape to a piece of 0,2mm styrene sheet and punched from this some tiny discs of various diameters, using the ‘Punch and Die Tool Set’ from RP Toolz. 12: This way I created some home-made, die-cut masks. 13: Before I began the interior painting process, I put together the fuselage halves. This was necessary because I also had to paint some of the areas near the cockpit.
AIR Edition
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FEATURE ARTICLE Wingsy Kits 1:48 A5M2b Claude (Late Version) • Kit No. D5-01
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31 14: As usual, I first applied a priming layer of Mr.Color C8 ‘Silver’. 15: Next, I airbrushed a basecoat of Mr.Color C126 ‘Cockpit Color (Mitsubishi)’, and added some highlights with Mr.Color C308 ‘FS36375 Gray’. 16: The details were brush painted with various waterbased acrylics. 17: To create some depth, I used Abteilung 502 ABT040 ‘Faded Green’ oil paint that had been diluted with ABT113 ‘Fast Dry Thinner’. 18: The mixture was distributed into the various nooks and crannies within the cockpit. 19: The seat belts and some metallic parts were accentuated with a mixture of Abteilung 502 ABT005 ‘Smoke’ and ABT113 ‘Fast Dry Thinner’. 20: I then emphasized the edges of various cockpit details by dry-brushing them with Tamiya XF-57 ‘Buff’ enamel. 21: The same paint, applied with a very fine brush, was used to add some subtle damage to the paint layer. 22: I also scratched the surface with a blunt scalpel blade, revealing the silver undercoat here and there. 23: The glass instrument lenses were reproduced with a few tiny drops of A.MIG-094 ‘Crystal Glass’. 24: Finally, I laid out the seat belts and painted them with acrylic colours from the AK-Interactive AK3030 ‘Leather and Buckles’ set. 25: The finished cockpit could now be put together… 26: …and fixed within the fuselage after I’d airbrushed the adjacent areas with the interior colour. 27: Although the fit of the fuselage halves was very good, I still had to sand the seam area. This resulted in damaging some of the panel lines, which I restored with a JLC saw razor blade. 28: The obliterated rivets were reconstructed using a sewing needle. 29: The wing required similar treatments during the assembly process. 30: Once I’d glued together the wing and fuselage, I temporarily mounted the firewall and wrapped the front part of the fuselage with masking tape in order to prevent it from deformation. 31: A small gap that had emerged at the bottom of the fuselage, was filled with a piece of 0,1mm styrene sheet. 32: As this kit was to receive a metallic finish, I had to pay attention to any surface irregularities. The joint area at the wing root also required some work. I first levelled the junction with the ‘Mr.Scriber-Narrow’ tool from the Mr.Paint range. 33: The resulting line was filled with Magic Sculp two-part epoxy putty. 34: I then quickly polished the still uncured putty with a wet cotton bud. 35: Once the putty had fully cured, I smoothed the entire wing root area with Mr.Grinding Cloths from the Mr.Hobby range. 36: This allowed me to scribe new and even panel lines of equal depth. 37: Some damaged rivet detail had also to be restored.
“As the engine would be installed after the end of the kit painting process, I chose to deal with it at the very beginning of this stage.”
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FEATURE ARTICLE Wingsy Kits 1:48 A5M2b Claude (Late Version) • Kit No. D5-01
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38: Afterwards, I focused on the engine. Here I adopted a different sequence of work than recommended in the instructions. I started by drilling holes for the electrical wiring. 39: The latter was made from lengths of 0.4mm tin wire. At this stage, I assembled the entire
wiring loom, but did not attach it to the engine yet. 40: The exhausts pipes had to be hollowed out. 41: I then mounted the photo-etched engine cowling frame. 42: As I intended to paint the entire engine cowling separately and subsequently fix the engine within
it, I first glued together the main cowling ring parts. 43: Next, I removed the mounting pins and smoothed the inner surfaces of the cowling ring. 44: Also had to level its edges with sandpaper, that had been glued to a flat piece of wood, in
order to ensure that the entire surface of the sanded part would be even. 45: Last but not least, I ensured that the engine actually fits into the cowling ring… 46: …and whether all the parts that build up the cowling could be put together without any
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problems. 47: It turned out that the rear cowling ring was slightly too thick… 48: …so I thinned down its edges with different milling bits. 49: All the engine and cowling pieces were now
ready for the painting stage. 50: The construction process was drawing to an end. To improve the navigation lights, I drilled tiny holes inside them, and filled these apertures with paint. This way, I can represent the coloured light bulbs.
Painting
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51: The windscreen was masked with Tamiya tape, both from the outside and inside. 52: To prepare the surface for the application of metallic colours, I first wiped the entire kit with a piece of 000 steel wool. 53: Further polishing was done using ‘Mr. Laplos
8000’ polishing cloth from the Mr.Hobby range. 54: The kit was ready to have some paint applied.
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As the engine would be installed after the end of the kit painting process, I chose to deal with it at the very beginning of this stage. I began by airbrushing a basecoat of AK476 ‘Steel’ from AK-Interactive’s Xtreme Metal range.
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55: To emphasize the details, I applied AK-Interactive AK2033 ‘Engine & Turbines Wash’ and A.MIG-1008 ‘NATO Camouflages Wash’ over all surfaces. 56: AK-Interactive AK483 ‘Burnt Metal’ was used as the base colour of the exhaust manifolds, whilst their ends were additionally highlighted with AK485 ‘Pale Burnt Metal’. 57: Those engine parts that had already been painted, could now be progressively assembled. I attached the electrical wiring, and brush painted the wires with Tamiya XF-1 ‘Flat Black’ enamel. 58: The finished engine was glued inside the previously painted cowling. The final touch was to add the exhausts. 59: Once I’d painted the windscreen with the interior colour, from the inside, I fixed it in its place, and masked off the cockpit with pieces of Tamiya tape and Abteilung 502 ABT115 ‘Liquid Mask’.
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FEATURE ARTICLE Wingsy Kits 1:48 A5M2b Claude (Late Version) • Kit No. D5-01
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60: The kit could now receive a priming layer of Mr.Color C8 ‘Silver’. This enabled me to ensure that all surfaces were free of sanding marks and other flaws. 61: Next, I sprayed a basecoat of AK-Interactive AK479 ‘Aluminium’. 62: Mr.Paint MRP-059 ‘Black-Grey’ is one my favorite choices when it comes to airbrushing the thin lines and streaks of the pre-shading pattern. In this case, I used it to emphasize the panel lines and selected rivet rows. 63: Afterwards, I applied a transparent layer of AK-Interactive AK479 ‘Aluminium’ over the chosen airframe panels. For this purpose, the lacquer paint was additionally diluted with Mr.Color Thinner. 64: The panels painted during the previous step were masked with Tamiya tape. 65: This allowed me to spray a transparent layer of AK-Interactive AK478 ‘White Aluminium’ over the remaining surfaces. 66: I then removed the masks and applied the new ones so that I could now paint the chosen portions of the wing with AK-Interactive AK480 ‘Dark Aluminium’. The ailerons were finished in AK478 ‘White Aluminium’.
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67: Using AK-Interactive AK481 ‘Polished Aluminium’, I highlighted the most exposed details, reinforcement strips on the wings, and fuselage spine. 68: All external surfaces of the A5Ms had been originally sealed with a clear varnish that yellowed under UV sunlight. To replicate this effect, I mixed heavily diluted Mr.Color C46 ‘Clear Gloss’ with small amounts of Tamiya’s X-26 ‘Clear Orange’ and X-24 ‘Clear Yellow’, and airbrushed this mixture over all of the metallic areas. Of course, the undersides received a less intense treatment than the upper surfaces. 69: Once the amber-tinted clear varnish had fully dried, I could paint the empennage, wheel covers and national insignia. 70: For this purpose, I used a mixture of Tamiya’s XF-7 ‘Flat Red’ and X-7 ‘Red’. The latter was added so that I could obtain a satin finish. 71: The remaining markings were reproduced with decals, which did not cause any problems during the application process. 72: Although I tend to use black or almost black enamel washes for bringing out the details on the metallic surfaces, in this case I went for Van Dyke Brown oil paint, that had been mixed with white spirit, as I thought it would better accentuate the effect of the amber-tinted varnish. I applied the mixture onto the panel lines and rivet rows… 73: …and removed the excess with paper towels and cotton buds. 74: The same mixture worked well for the red areas… 75: …but the blue-black engine cowling required a different colour of wash. I therefore used Van Dyke Brown from Talens, and Abteilung 502 ABT240 ‘Creamy Brown’, mixed in different ratios. 76: The kit was now ready for the weathering stage.
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FEATURE ARTICLE Wingsy Kits 1:48 A5M2b Claude (Late Version) • Kit No. D5-01
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Weathering At first sight, archive photos seem to show that the Claudes were usually rather well maintained and quite clean, but under close scrutiny, one can see some specific signs of usage. One of them was the damaged paint layer on the workable portions of the main landing covers. I replicated this by scratching the surface with a sewing needle, revealing the silver undercoat. 77: Some fine scratches were also added to the upper surface of the wheel cover (it appears that it was frequently used as a step by the ground crew)… 78: …and near the panel demarcation of the engine cowling. 79: To create some fine damage to the varnish layer in the area that would be frequently walked on by the pilot and ground crew, I patted the surface with a steel wire brush. 80: Next, I mixed A.MIG-1408 ‘Fresh Engine Oil’ and AK-Interactive AK014 ‘Winter Streaking Grime’ in different rations, and applied this to the drop tank, reproducing the dirt that had stuck to the leaked fuel. 81: I also airbrushed some streaks of AK-Interactive AK014 ‘Winter Streaking Grime’ over the fuselage underside, mainly focusing on the areas aft of the shell ejector ports, and around the drop tank attachment points. For this purpose, I had to dilute the enamel product with white spirit. 82: The exhaust stains were recreated in similar way, using a mixture of AK-Interactive AK083 ‘Track Wash’ and Abteilung 502 ABT112 ‘Matt Effect Thinner’. 83: Afterwards, I added some subtle traces of mud and dirt to the wing root area, using Tamiya Weathering Sticks ‘Sand’ and ‘Mud’, that had been applied with a wet cotton bud. The aforementioned compounds were subsequently mixed with a small amount of water, and applied over the wheels and their covers with an old brush. 84: Finally, I mounted the antenna mast, which thus far had been left separate to prevent damaging it. The antenna itself was made from very thin string. 85: I brush painted the latter with Vallejo 77.711 ‘Magnesium’.
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FEATURE ARTICLE Wingsy Kits 1:48 A5M2b Claude (Late Version) • Kit No. D5-01
MODELSPEC Wingsy Kits 1:48 A5M2b Claude (Late Version).
Kit No. D5-01
Accessories Used: Master Model 1:48 scale Japanese Type 97 7.7mm Gun Barrels – Kit No. AM48-022 Tools and Modelling Products Used: Tamiya Extra Thin Cement Roket Hot C.A. glue Styrene sheet Tin wire Magic Sculp epoxy putty RP Toolz Punch and Die Tool Set Mr.Paint Mr.Scriber-Narrow tool Mr.Laplos and Mr.Grinding Cloth abrasive cloths Tamiya masking tape Paints and Finishing Products Used: Paints: • AK-Interactive Xtreme Metal metalizers • Mr.Color lacquers from Mr.Hobby • Mr.Paint lacquers • Tamiya acrylics and enamels • AK-Interactive waterbased acrylics • Ammo MIG waterbased acrylics • Vallejo waterbased acrylics Mr.Hobby clear varnishes Microscale decal solutions Talens White Spirit Talens Van Dyke Brown oil paint Abteilung 502 products: • ABT005 Smoke • ABT040 Faded Green • ABT113 Fast Dry Thinner • ABT115 Liquid Mask • ABT240 Creamy Brown AK-Interactive weathering products: • AK014 Winter Streaking Grime • AK083 Track Wash • AK2033 Engine & Turbines Wash Ammo MIG weathering products: • AMIG-1008 NATO Camouflages Wash • AMIG-1408 Fresh Engine Oil Tamiya Weathering Sticks: • 87081 Mud • 87086 Sand References: * Historical summary based on Wikipedia entry https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mitsubishi_A5M High level of detail; crisp surface textures; good instructions. Clear parts not the thinnest. Rating: 9 out of 10 Wingsy Kits are available online and from specialist hobby shops worldwide.
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FEATURE ARTICLE: Wingnut Wings 1:32 DFW C.V (late) Kit No. 32057
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JACK OF ALL TRADES Gary Edmundson builds Wingnut Wings’ 1:32 DFW C.V (late).
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roduced between August 1916 and late in 1918, the DFW C.V was the most prolific German aircraft on the Western Front. The two-seater was used extensively as a fighter, bomber, reconnaissance, ground attack and artillery spotter. Over 4000 machines were manufactured by four different factories, and Wingnut Wings have provided many optional parts in their two DFW C.V kits (early and late) to give choices to the modeller of the many production variations. The subject of this build is an aircraft produced by Deutsche Flukzeug-Werke pictured after April 1918 which had been repainted with the Balkenkreuz national markings and had various parts of the flying surfaces repaired and re-covered. I endeavoured to heavily weather the paintwork on this model, and combined with the patchwork of the wings, made an effort to produce the appearance of a well-worn machine.
ENGINE AND FUSELAGE INTERIOR
I added separate push-rods and ignition wires to the NAG C.III engine to enhance the detail. Stubs from stretched sprue were placed into the cylinder heads for spark plugs, and leads of copper wire were cemented into the magneto assemblies and looped over to the plugs via a conduit fashioned from sheet styrene. The engine block was finished in Alclad II Duraluminum, and the cylinder assembly in semi-gloss Tamiya Black X-18. It was heavily weathered with dark brown and black oil paint, diluted with mineral spirits. The various components that make up the wooden structure of the cockpit were primed in light tan, and then given a clear gloss finish. Mixtures of burnt umber, raw sienna and burnt sienna oil paints were brushed onto the glossy surfaces to create various colours of woodgrain, using lighter tones for the panels and darker tones for the structure. Since the etched metal seat belts seemed a bit
flat, they were modified with springs made from thin copper wire wound around a miniature drill bit, and then coiled into a circle. Small scraps of lead sheet were used to join these to the belts. While most of the detail was picked out in Vallejo acrylic colours as marked out in the welldetailed instruction booklet, the large amount of silver metal parts like the ammunition containers and foot-covers were airbrushed using Alclad Duraluminum II. Metal fixtures seem to have all been painted using a pale interior greenish grey which the directions call for Tamiya acrylic XF-76. The seat assembly can optionally be painted brass, which I happily did using a new colour in my Alclad lacquer paint arsenal – ALC 109 Polished Brass. It applies well like all Alclad paints and is the best brass paint I’ve found after trying many kinds. There was some tricky rigging to the control stick and rudder pedals to complete the cockpit detail. EZ Line was used for this, after drilling tiny holes to accommodate the fine filament which was fastened using cyano glue. Thin lead wire from a fly-tying spool was used to make leads for the radio power supply and antenna spool in the rear of the cockpit.
FUSELAGE CONSTRUCTION AND PAINTING
Once the engine and cockpit sub-assemblies had been cemented into the fuselage halves, a bit of time was spent getting a fairly smooth finish to the seams top and bottom. The fit of the WnW kits is typically great, and so only a small amount of filling and sanding was necessary for this. After masking the interior components with soft sponge and Tamiya tape, the paintwork on the fuselage could begin. Since the base of the fuselage was wood with doped canvas covering, I base-coated the assembly in a light tan (either Tamiya XF-55 Deck Tan, or XF-59 Desert Yellow or even a combination of both, since I use mixes). Over this
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FEATURE ARTICLE: Wingnut Wings 1:32 DFW C.V (late) Kit No. 32057
The instrument panel was finished using an oil paint wash over glazed tan undercoat.
The kit features a detailed radio, this one ultimately hidden from view once construction progressed.
The etched metal seatbelts were enhanced with springs made from copper wire.
EZ Line was used to complete the control wires for joystick and rudder pedals.
The seat assembly was airbrushed using Alclad’s excellent Polished Brass ALC 109
After assembly, the kit’s engine was given several washes of diluted dark oil paint to enhance the detail.
I airbrushed clear gloss X-22 Clear Gloss. To give a weathered effect to the subsequent paint work, I airbrushed a thin coat of hairspray over the entire fuselage, decanted from an aerosol can (Textureline “texturesprayfirm” ). After this had dried, I airbrushed the overall fuselage colour of dark green using Tamiya’s XF-61. I deliberately thinned the paint a bit more than normal (20% paint to thinner) and applied it in a random, blotchy pattern, allowing some of the base tan to show through, creating the start of a faded, worn effect. The next step was to remove small amounts of the paint, using a damp brush over the entire
surface to lift the outer coat to reveal a chipping effect. A larger, wide bristled brush was dampened with water after which most was wiped off on a cloth. The slightly damp brush was then rubbed here and there, dissolving the under-laying hairspray, and then gradually lifting small areas of the dark green paint. This can easily be overdone, and care was used to restrain the amount of water, rubbing, and time that the moisture was allowed to sit on the surface. Consolation was that areas that did seem overdone could be then repainted in the dark green to mitigate the effect. The engine cowlings and wing walks were base coated in Alclad aluminum, and received the same
hairspray weathering treatment. Once the desired effect had been achieved, all of the surfaces were then protected by a coat of X-22 clear gloss. Decals for the fuselage were applied to the glossy surface, with help from Solvaset to eliminate the air bubbles and get a good sit. To tone down the stark appearance of the markings, especially the Balkenkreuz, a very thin coat of the base colour XF-61 was applied over them.
WINGS AND FLYING SURFACES
To prepare the wings for painting, the underside ribs and spars received an outline airbrushing of dark brown, after which they were masked
The remarkable fit of all internal components made the fuselage assembly a pleasure.
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with thin strips of Tamiya tape. After a light airbrushing of Tamiya’s XF-57 Buff, the spar tapes were removed, and another thin coat of XF-57 was applied. Following this, the tape over the ribs was removed, and a further thin airbrushing of the XF-57 was done. The overall effect was a transparent look to the underside of the wings, showing the shadow of the internal structure as if sunlight was penetrating through. The upper surfaces of the wings on this particular aircraft were a very patchy affair of repair and re-covering, with streaked green and CDL (clear doped linen) canvas, plus patches of plain CDL. The ribs were masked after being sprayed with an off-white paint mix, then a base of XF-57 Buff was laid on top of that. After removal of the tape from the ribs, the upper wing was masked in preparation for the various patches of colour shown on the instruction guide, involving XF-71 Pale Green and XF-57 with streaked lines of XF-61 Dark Green. These same colours and techniques were used on the tail surfaces and ailerons. After everything had been painted and sealed with XF-22 clear gloss, I drilled deeper the locating holes for the rigging points, and attached loops of copper wire with etched metal turnbuckles from RB Productions where appropriate. There are eight locating points for the rigging on the outer edges of the outer struts that are mis-placed in the kit, and they need to be filled, with new ones drilled at the center points at the base of the struts.
CONSTRUCTION OF THE SUB-ASSEMBLIES
Importantly for this model was accessing the Wingnut Wings website to discover an errata in the instruction manual. It was imperative to construction that the landing gear legs be placed in position before the lower wings were cemented in place. Good tip to know! When attaching the lower wings to the fuselage, I made sure that the dihedral was exaggerated by suspending the fuselage upside down while the glue dried. This made sure that when the upper wing assembly was added that any “droopage” would result in relatively straight looking wings. Since the struts were all keyed and the fit engineered well, the upper and lower wing assemblies fit beautifully into place, with a slight dihedral as hoped for. The vertical stabilizer on the tail had a bit of a gap where it mated to the fuselage which was filled with a bead of epoxy putty and touched up with Vallejo paint mixed to match the fuselage. Rigging the wings with EZ Line stretchy thread was relatively simple with some good gap between the wings, a couple of pairs of good tweezers, and now and then some strong language. The ailerons were secured to the wings with the joints being strengthened using small lengths of copper wire, and the control lines were added to them, along with the elevator and rudder as well. After securing each line with cyano glue, the excess was trimmed off with extreme care using a brand new Xacto blade. The propeller was initially painted a light brown, then masked with Tamiya tape cut to emulate the shape of laminated wood sections. Following a coat of darker brown, the prop was then sprayed with a coat of Tamiya’s X-26 Clear Orange. After applying the “Wolf” manufacturer’s decal, a protective coat of clear gloss was added. I would typically leave this as a final finish, but due to the nature of the weathered craft I was trying to create, I ended up airbrushing a flat coat onto the propeller to blend the overall look of the finished piece.
In preparation for a heavily weathered fuselage, it was base coated in a tan colour, sealed with X-22 gloss, and then given a thin layer of hairspray.
The overall colour of Tamiya’s XF-61 dark green was airbrushed over the layer of hairspray in a patchy fashion to enhance the weathered look.
The effect of a dampened brush removing some of the paint is shown before and after the technique on the engine cowlings
The fuselage paintwork after weathering with the hairspray technique.
Dark brown outlines were sprayed onto the lower surfaces of the rib and spar areas, then masked over in preparation for the CDL overall colour.
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FEATURE ARTICLE: Wingnut Wings 1:32 DFW C.V (late) Kit No. 32057
After the markings were applied to the fuselage, a very diluted mix of XF-61 dark green base colour was airbrushed over them to subdue the decals harsh appearance.
The tape from the spars areas was removed first, followed by another light coat of the CDL colour.
Control lines for the radiator louver were made from EZ Line, and a vent pipe was fashioned from thin lead wire.
After all of the tape was removed, the CDL was lightly airbrushed over again to just leave traces of the wing’s structure showing through.
Upper wing surfaces were prepared for painting by colouring the rib detail with an off-white, which was subsequently masked with thin strips of Tamiya tape.
Pale green was airbrushed over the tapes, which were then removed. More pale green was airbrushed over this, allowing the rib structure to appear subtly below.
Metal walkways on the wing sections were painted aluminum, and then given a coat of XF-22 RLM grey before weathering with the hairspray technique.
The finished paintwork on the upper wings, combining a streaky finish of CDL, pale green and dark green
A special bracket was built from stretched sprue to mount the anemometer, as seen in a reference photo in the instruction manual.
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To help with rigging the aircraft, The Fantastic Third Hand was able to hold the model in various angles so that my hands were free to fasten the fine lines into position
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As with the fuselage decals, the upper and lower Balkenkreuz markings were toned down.
A power generator for the radio was mounted on the right landing gear support, and it was given a twisted copper electrical lead which travelled up to a hole in the fuselage. The radiator featured a vent pipe seen in period photos, and I fashioned one from thin lead fly-tying wire with a small cup on the very end of it. The anemometer was enhanced by adding a copper wire cage to the top of it, and mounted on a small frame that suspended it in front of the front inner right strut, as seen in the reference photos provided in the instruction guide. The flare racks mounted on the side of the fuselage in both period photos and the instruction profile illustration do not resemble the parts provided in the kit, so I made new ones from styrene rod and lead sheet.
The underside of the fuselage also received the same weathering of worn-off paint, washes of oil paint, and streaks of Tamiya X-19 Smoke
Rear three quarter view of the completed model.
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FEATURE ARTICLE: Wingnut Wings 1:32 DFW C.V (late) Kit No. 32057
Modelspec Wingnut Wings 1:32 DFW C.V (late) Kit No. 32057 Tools and Materials Used: • Tamiya Extra Fine Cement, • Tamiya Basic Putty, • Loctite 404 instant adhesive • Harder & Steenbeck Infinity CRplus Airbrush • 10mm, 18mm, 40mm Tamiya Masking Tape • 0.5mm brass rod • Micro drill set
The worn paint may be appreciated from this angle.
• Fantastic Third Hand (Kronos Designs)
Paints and Finishing Products Used:
• Tamiya Acrylic paints as listed in the paint
callouts.
• Winsor & Newton Oil Paint Series 1 554 Raw
Umber, 331 Ivory Black, 074 Burnt Sienna
• Vallejo Acrylic paints as listed in the paint callouts • Alclad II Duraluminum, Polished Brass ALC 109,
Bunt Iron ALC 121 • Testors enamel Silver, Gold, Copper • Future floor acrylic (Johnson’s Pledge)
The different finishes make for an interestingly varied model.
• Solvaset & Microsol Decal setting solutions • Lacquer thinner • Mineral Spirit thinner
Accessories and materials used;
• EZ Line Rigging Line Fine Charcoal • RB Productions etched brass turnbuckle
RB-P32023 References used;
• Wingnut Wings website,
(www.wingnutwings.com).
• ww1modelaircraft.com modelling forum
The laminated layers of the propeller were masked and sprayed.
WEATHERING
To dull down the highly glossy appearance of the model’s finish, a light coat of Vallejo Matt Medium 70.540 was airbrushed on various areas. This was thinned with tap water to a consistency of skim milk. Since the surface of these aircraft had a notable sheen, the matt coat was applied just enough to leave a satin finish. Stains and streaks were airbrushed onto the wings and lower fuselage using a subtle amount of Tamiya’s X-19 Smoke. The hinges of the control surfaces tended to show a fair bit of staining due to oil and dirt accumulation, and so these areas got the smoke treatment too, along with a touch of diluted dark brownishblack oil paint. Dark metal parts like the rocker arms on the engine and machine guns were highlighted using silver enamel paint toned down with a touch of raw umber oil. This was drybrushed on, adding more silver to the last of the touches, bringing out the detail. The metal ring around the observer’s position also received some worn-metal highlighting, and a few paint chips for character. The exhaust was painted Alclad Burnt Iron ALC 121, then drybrushed with the metalizer mixture mentioned above. A touch of orange pastel chalk was applied to the area of the manifold where the pipes meet, giving a subtle rust-like appearance. •
Summary The hairspray technique of weathering painted surfaces has been a way I’ve emulated winter white-wash schemes on armoured vehicles in the past, and it was time to try it on a World War I aircraft project. Considering some of the period photos I’ve seen of the weathered condition of well used machines, I hope to use it a lot more in the future. I’m still enamoured by the kits released by Wingnut Wings, and have yet to be disappointed by any of the 10 I’ve tackled so far, the DFW C.V being no exception.
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The backdrop for the realistic setting was a model railroad background dry-mounted background by Faller.
“The hairspray technique of weathering painted surfaces has been a way I’ve emulated winter white-wash schemes on armoured vehicles in the past, and it was time to try it on a World War I aircraft project.”
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KIT PREVIEW Special Hobby 1:48 Zlin Z-181:C-6. Kit No. SH48187
SECOND
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The Editor takes a look at the re-released and slightly revised Zlin Z-181 from Special Hobby
he Zlin Z-181 was the Czech production version of the Bücker Bü 181 Bestmann. After the German withdrawal, production continued after the war in the same Zlin works, now denominated as the C.6 and C.106 for the Czechoslovak Air Force and as the Zlín Z.281 and Z.381 in various versions for civil use. 783 aircraft were built. Between 1943 and 1945, Hägglund & Söner AB in Sweden built 120 Bü 181’s under license with the Swedish military designation Sk 25. MPM released a limited run plastic 1:48 scale Bucker Bu 181 Jungmann before the turn of the century. As you would expect of its era, this was a basic kit with vacform canopy. Surprisingly, another 1:48 scale Bestmann has been released this year from newcomer Stransky. This kit appears to have nothing in common with the new Special Hobby kit. I haven’t actually seen this kit so I can’t offer an authoritative opinion. The sprues and resin parts from this kit appeared previously in the recent Special Hobby 1:48 scale Jungmann kit released in the second half of 2016. Special Hobby’s 1:48 scale Zlin Z-181 shares most of its parts in common with the recent Special Hobby Bucker Bu 181 Jungmann. This kit comprises 55 parts in grey plastic (including 16 parts not for use), two clear parts, five resin parts, 28 photo-etched parts on one fret and markings for three options.
Compared to the Special Hobby 1:32 scale Tempest that I had the pleasure to build in October 2016, this model looks more like a traditional limited run kit. This is not necessarily a bad thing though. Although little luxuries such as fuselage locating pins are not present, the parts are cleanly moulded and sprue attachments quite modest, so parts removal and cleanup will be fast and easy. You won’t find the tall ejector pin towers that older limited run kits suffered from either! The real aircraft was very simple too, so short run technology does not limit the potential detail. In fact, surface textures are very subtly done, and trailing edges are nice and sharp. Interior detail is basic, reflecting the real thing. The instrument panel is a plastic part with crisply moulded dials, bezels and switches, enhanced with an overlay decal. A new, slightly revised photo-etched fret is included with different style harness straps. Also included are rudder toe straps, the mesh cargo barrier and other smaller details. The wings are supplied as upper and lower halves for port and starboard sides. They are held in place with tabs that slot into the fuselage wing roots. Each one-piece horizontal stabiliser is also secured with a small locating tab. The resin partial engine is nicely detailed and will be visible through the front intake.
Four tiny individual hollow resin exhaust stubs are also included. Two styles of wheels are provided. The instructions indicate which option goes with what markings. The canopy is presented as a front and rear section, and is moulded shut. A number of parts are present that are not designed to be used with this release but suggest that we will see different variants in the future. These include four Panzerfausts with wing mounts, and skis. The decal sheet is printed by Aviprint. Colours look great and registration is perfect. Markings are supplied for two post-war Czech machines - one private and one military. This is a straightforward kit of a simple but important trainer and liaison aircraft. Special Hobby’s 1:48 scale Zlin Z-181:C-6 is not presented quite to the same standard as their recent 1:32 scale Tempest, but it is cleanly moulded, features subtle surface features, effective use of resin and photo-etch and if you have a few kits under your belt you won’t have any trouble with the absence of locating pins. Just take your time aligning parts, test-fit frequently, and you’ll have an attractive result. Recommended.
Special Hobby kits and accessories are available online from their e-shop www.specialhobby.eu
Fuselage halves are moulded as two full sides.
The kit’s resin parts.
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Nice raised detail on the plastic instrument panel.
A modest photo-etched sprue is included.
Subtle stretched fabric texture.
Markings are offered for two aircraft.
Panzerfaust armament!
The kit canopy is moulded shut.
One of the post-war Czech marking options.
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23/02/2017 17:15
modeller Next Issues military illustrated
ISSUE No.073 May 2017
Aircraft Edition - Brett Green AFV Edition - Marcus Nicholls Publisher; Alan Harman Graphic Design; Alex Hall Advertising Manager; Sean Leslie Office Manager; Paula Gray Administration Manager; Hannah McLaurie Administration Assistant; Julie Lane MIM Website; Doolittle Media Web Team Editors;
Military Illustrated Modeller Issue 74 - AFV Edition
PAN-PAN EN PLASTIQUE
ICM's 1:35 Panhard 178 AMD-35 in detail
on sale 18 May 2017
Printed by; Henry Stone Ltd, Oxfordshire Distributed by; Seymour Distribution 2 East Poultry Avenue, London, EC1A 9PT Tel; 020 7429 4000 Newstrade; Select Publisher Services 3 East Avenue, Bournemouth, BH3 7BW Tel; 01202 586848 Email;
[email protected] Military Illustrated Modeller is published on the third Thursday of each month by; Doolittle Media, Doolittle Mill, Doolittle Lane, Totternhoe, Bedfordshire, LU6 1QX UK www.militaryillustratedmodeller.com Tel; +44 (0)1525 222573 Fax; +44 (0)1525 222574 Editorial enquiries; Aircraft Edition email;
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NO FT? NO COMMENT
Photo references for the FT-17 French WW1 tank
SOPWITH DOLPHIN
Copper State Models’ 1:48 Sopwith Dolphin by Tony Bell.
Reproduction in part of any text, photograph, or illustration without written consent from the publisher is strictly prohibited. While due care is taken to ensure the contents of Military Illustrated Modeller is accurate, the publishers and printers can not accept responsibility for errors and omissions.
Military Illustrated Modeller Issue 75 - Aircraft Edition
on sale 8 June 2017 EYE IN THE SKY
James Hatch tackles HPH’s 1:32 scale Focke-Wulf Fw 189 Uhu.
Advertisements are accepted for publication in Military Illustrated Modeller only on Doolittle Media’s standard terms of acceptance of advertising, copies of which are available from the advertising department. Please write to the address above. All advertising, circulation and subscription enquiries should also be directed to the UK address above.
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ARROW TO THE FUTURE Chris Wauchop wrestles with Zoukei-Mura’s 1:32 Dornier Do 335.
LITTLE ‘SCHMITT
Rafe Morrissey improves Revell’s 1:72 Messerschmitt Bf 109 G-10.
© Doolittle Media 2017
...AND MORE!
p 65 NextIssue 073B.indd 65
AIR Edition
65
30/03/2017 12:42
Eduard 1:48 F6F-5N Nightfighter Weekend Edition. Kit No. 84133
Tailpiece
66
THE CAT HUNTS BY NIGHT The Editor examines the latest in Eduard’s Hellcat family – the 1:48 scale F6F-5N Nightfighter.
T
he Grumman F6F Hellcat was designed as a stop-gap upgrade of the lightweight F4F Wildcat, almost as an insurance policy in the event that the F4U Corsair, then under development, did not live up to expectations. Despite the clear family resemblance to the earlier Wildcat, the Hellcat was an all-new aircraft. The resulting naval fighter was stocky in profile, large, powerfully armed and armoured, and heavy. The Hellcat secured its place in history with a remarkable kill ratio of 19:1. A number of 1:48 scale Hellcat kits have been available for some time now. The old Monogram kit was a typical product of the 1960s with gimmicky moving parts, accuracy problems and poor detail. The ARII / Otaki offering from the 1970s was much better, but was let down by a low level of interior detail. Hasegawa’s F6F family dates from the mid-1990s, but it is still a nice model - well detailed with petitely recessed panel lines. Perhaps the most frequent criticism levelled at that kit is the slighty squashed and undersized shape of the lower cowl intake - the Hellcat’s distinctive “grin”. Eduard entered the fray with a brand new 1:48 scale F6F-3 Hellcat kit in February 2008 - time flies, doesn’t it - to be followed up with their FAA Hellcat Mk.I and Mk.II, the Royal Class packaging and a standalone F6F-5N Night Fighter ProfiPACK in 2010.. Eduard has now added an F6F-5N to their 1:48 scale Weekend Edition range. These kits traditionally do not include photo-etch or masks, but they do benefit from a much lower price. Eduard’s 1:48 scale F6F-5N Nightfighter Weekend Edition comprises 108 grey coloured injection moulded plastic parts; 17 clear parts; 15 parts in grey coloured resin and a decal sheet covering two markings options. This time around, the plastic parts are grey. I know that it makes no difference when building the kit, but this shade always looks classier to my eye! Note that this model features a specific and accurate wing and fuselage for the F6F-5 variant. You won’t need to fit inserts or fill panel lines with this model. Surface texture on Eduard’s latest releases has been superb, and all of their Hellcats meet their very high standards. In addition to crisp, finely
recessed panel lines and selected rows of rivets, the Hellcat fuselage employs a subtle lapped panel effect. This really works well. The fabric ribs on the control surfaces are also very convincing. The plastic detail in the cockpit is good even without photo-etch, but for the PE junkie there is a small photoetched upgrade available too. Straight from the box though, you should still get a very nice result from the dial decals. Decals are also supplied for the harness straps. The engine is a simple assembly with only five plastic parts, but detail is barely compromised. Pushrods are moulded in place. It is not usual to find resin parts in a Weekend Edition kit, but these are very welcome. The resin parts are specific to the night fighter version. They include the radome, two “T” shaped aerials, machine guns with flame dampers and shrouded exhausts. The delicate antenna post on the fin is a separate part that may be installed following construction and painting. This is a thoughtful touch that will avoid the almost inevitable damage to a post moulded in place on the top of the fin. The canopy parts are crystal clear and thin. Separate parts are supplied to permit the sliding canopy to be displayed open or closed. Control surfaces are all supplied separately. These are tabbed to assist precise alignment in the neutral position. It appears that the ailerons and elevators may easily be repositioned after slicing the tabs off. Two marking options are included on the decal sheet. Both are overall Gloss Sea Blue with one featuring a white centreline tank. The decals, printed by Eduard, are glossy and look great on the sheet. Eduard’s 1:48 scale F6F-5N Nightfighter Weekend Edition is well detailed, features excellent surface texture and offers plenty of useful options to the modeller. The bonus inclusion of the resin parts makes it even better value. Highly Recommended.
Wheel well detail is moulded into the lower wing halves.
The plastic instrument panel for the Weekend Edition.
Resin parts include flash suppressors, exhaust shrouds. “T” aerials and the radome.
Ailerons are held in place with stout tabs.
The grin looks good.
e supplied Markings ar . ns tio op o for tw Moulding quality has held up very well.
Military Illustrated Modeller - May 2017
p 66 TailPiece 073B.indd 66
The overlapping panel effect looks even better in real life!
ar The kit’s cle sprue.
30/03/2017 12:42
DOOLITTLEMEDIA.COM
The Modeller’s Guide
Superdetailing, Painting and Weathering
Aircraft of WWII, with airfield accessories, ordnance and diorama
Aleksandar Počuč
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SCALE MODELLING: A LOVE STORY READY TO ASSEMBLE TOOLS AND MATERIALS TECHNIQUES BUILDING THE AIRCRAFT ■ SPITFIRE MK. IXC ■ P-47D THUNDERBOLT ■ JU-87D ‘STUKA’ MAKING A DIORAMA
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Modeller’s guide to superdetailing, painting and weathering aircraft of WWII’ book is intended for both beginners and advanced modellers as it covers wide variety of modelling tasks ranging from basic detailing, scratch-building, painting, weathering, machining custom parts using resin as well as scratch-building part from brass and aluminium and of course, diorama making. Basics about tools, paints and modelling materials have been covered as well. The book revolves around three subjects, P-47D Razorback, Spitfire Mk.IXc and Junkers Ju-87D Stuka, all in 32nd scale. Step by step concept will provide a good reference and ideas to all WWII aircraft modellers regardless of their experience.
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p 64 ModellersGuide 072.indd 1
23/02/2017 17:22
