Model Boats - Special Winter 2017

! S E

0 G SPECIAL EDITION A P 0 IACKED GET ON BOARD www.modelboats.co.uk

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FAIREY HUNTRESS 23 18

FEAPTUAGE RE

HMT Kerne An in-depth look at one of the latest Mountfleet kits

MODELLING GROUP

CLASSIC LEISURE LAUNCH MODEL

KIT REVIEW

£5.25

VACUUM FORMING HOW TO

GUIDE

HDW 209 SUBMARINE PROJECT Building a static

diving model from scratch

Building a mini Vacuum Moulding Machine

HMS RENOWN IN DETAIL A Model Engineer Exhibition Top Award Winner

The

Model PO BOX 104, Redruth TR15 9BJ Mail order Only. Phone line open Mon-Fri 9am- 1pm Tel UK: 01209 861733 Tel Int: +44 1209 861733

www.model-dockyard.com U.K Delivery Kit, Boat Hulls orders Add £10.00 Timber orders £11.00 Other orders Add £5.25 Over £190 Free Delivery Free delivery does not apply to shipments weighing over 2 kilos, being sent to the Channel Islands, Isle of Man, Scottish Hightland & Islands or Northern Ireland. Delivery here will be charged at cost.

Orders are sent by 1st class post or UPS carrier. Large parcel deliveries to Scottish Highland and Islands, the Isle of Man, Isles of Scilly and Northern Ireland will be shipped by 3 day UPS carrier . Deliveries to Channel Islands will be shipped by Euro 48 service

We ship Worldwide too All prices correct at time of going to press but we reserve the right to supply at the prices ruling at the time of order despatch. E&OE

Amati Kits Dutch Royal Yacht in Bottle 1:300 95mm £46.95 Egyptian Ship Sahure Dynasty 350mm £74.95 Greek Bireme 480 BC 560mm £74.95 Venetian cargo ship, 1750 450mm £119.95 Santa Maria 1409 540mm £120.95 Pinta 1409 450mm 1:65 scale £89.95 Nina 370mm 1:65 scale £89.95 Mayflower 1620 1:60 scale 650mm £164.95 Chinese Junk Scale 1:100 400mm £84.95 Xebec.1753 720mm 1:60scale £149.95 H.M.A.V Bounty 1:60 scale 750mm £222.95 Robert E Lee Paddle Steamer 1:150 600mm £244.95 New Bedford Whaleboat 1860 1:16 scale 550mm£117.95 Bluenose. Fishing Schooner 1:100 scale 540mm £87.95 Titanic. White Star Liner 1912. 1:250 1070mm £378.95 Endeavour J Class. Wooden Hull 1:80 480mm £79.95 Endeavour J Class 1:35 scale 1130mm £258.95 Riva Aquarama. Italian runabout 1:10 860mm £279.95

Victory Models Kits Lady Nelson Cutter. 1:64 scale 530mm Granado. Bomb Ketch 1756 1:64 scale 800mm Fly. Swan Class Sloop. 1776 1:64 800mm Vanguard. 74 gun 3rd rate 1782 1:72 1171mm Pegasus Swan class sloop 1:64 800mm Mercury: 20 gun Brig 1820. 1:64 860mm Revenge 1577 1:64 scale 885mm

£101.95 £237.95 £246.95 £620.95 £337.95 £350.95 £369.95

Caldercraft Display Kits Bounty. 1789. 1:64 scale 660mm £242.19 Gunboat William, 1795 1:32 scale 760mm £237.46 Granado. Bomb Ketch 1756 1:64 scale 785mm £263.91 Victory 1781. Nelson's flagship 1:72 1385mm £892.96 Schooner Ballahoo. 1804 1:64 scale 520mm £75.01 Yacht Chatham 1741 1:64 scale 530mm £106.88 Jalouse Captured French brig 1794 1:64 815mm£269.33 Brig Badger 1778 1:64 scale 600mm £211.81 Sherbourne. 8 Gun Cutter 1763. 1:64 500mm £90.23 Mortar Vessel Convulsion. 1804 1:64 530mm £115.43 Endeavour. Bark 1768. 1:64 scale 725mm £289.73 Agamemnon 1781. 64 gun ship 1:64 1300mm £793.21 Brig Supply 1759. Yard transport 1:64 675mm £175.73 Mary Rose. Tudor warship 735mm 1:80 scale £312.53 Snake 1797 18 Gun Sloop 1:67 scale 910mm £247.67 Cruiser.1797. 18 Gun Brig 1:67 scale 850mm £247.67 Diana 38 Gun Heavy Frigate 1:64 1180mm £565.73 Mars: Captured Dutch 18 gun brig 1:64 790mm £242.19 Schooner Pickle 1778 1:64 scale 565mm £155.78

Caldercraft R/C Kits Joffre. 1916 Tyne Tug. £332.48 Imara. Twin Screw Berthing Tug £612.69 Milford star. Post war East Coast side trawler £307.74 North Light. Steam Clyde Puffer £332.48 Resolve. Twin Screw Admiralty Tug £669.69 Amaranth. Motor Fifie. 1:40 scale 600mm £156.69 SS Talacre. Single hatch Steam Coaster £334.36 H.M.T Sir Kay Round Table Class Minesweeper £393.24

Deans Marine Kits Compass Rose. Corvette1:96 673mm H.M.S. Solebay.Destroyer 1945 1210mm MGB77. 71.6ft BPB 1:24 920mm 73ft Vosper Type 1 1:24 scale 965mm Bronnington. minesweeper 1:100 465mm Steam Yacht Medea 1904. 1:48 870mm Tradition. Seine net trawler 870mm 1:24 H.M.S. Cossack Destroyer 1938 1200mm Response. Steam Picket Boat 1:36 460mm Royal Marine. Minesweeper 1:100 619mm

£181.95 £315.73 £249.74 £269.46 £105.51 £176.14 £371.75 £290.13 £91.66 £112.25

Hull and Plan Sets

Plastic Kits Trumpeter HMS Hood 1;200 scale £314.95 Trumpeter HMS Nelson 1:200 scale £242.99 Trumpeter HMS Rodney 1:200 scale £242.99 Trumpeter USS Missouri 1:200 scale 1352mm £314.99 Merit USS Hornet 1:200 scale £287.99 Trumpeter Bismarck 1941 1:200 scale 1265mm £269.99 Trumpeter USS Arizona BB-39 1941 1:200 £160.16 Lindberg PT 109 MTB 1:32 scale 749mm £149.95 Heller HMS Victory 1:100 scale £149.95 Heller Le Soleil Royal 1:100 scale £149.95 Lindberg Sea Witch. Clipper 1:96 scale 838mm £149.95 Revell Flower Class Corvette 1:72 850mm £107.10 Italeri Schnellboot S-100 1:35 £161.95 IItaleri MTB77 1:35 scale 632mm £89.95 Italeri PT109 Torpedo Boat 1:35 scale £89.95 MTB Vosper St.Nazaire Raid MTB 74 £89.95 Trumpeter HMS Repulse 1941 1:350 £87.21 Trumpeter HMS Hood (1941) 1:350 £80.09 Trumpeter Prinz Eugen 1945 1:350 £64.96 Trumpeter HMS Belfast 1942 563mm 1:350 £62.29 Trumpeter Admiral Hipper 1941 1:350 £62.26 Tamiya Bismarck 1:350 717mm £61.99 Merit HMS Ark Royal 696mm 1:350 scale £109.99

Plastic Kit Upgrades HMS Dreadnought 1907 Railing Set 1/350 £14.99 HMS Hood detail sheet pack 1:350 scale £35.80 Bismarck etched detail Tamiya Bismarck 1:350 £25.99 Prince of Wales cranes & railing 1:350 £19.50 S-100 Schnellboot gun detailing etch 1:35 £22.60 Jeremiah O'Brien Liberty Ship etch 1:350 £22.60 Prinz Eugen etched set. 1:350 scale £24.70 Vosper MTB 1:72 scale £19.40 Prince of Wales etch sheet pack 1:350 £23.99 Admiral Hipper etched sheet set 1:350 scale £22.60 U-boat VIIC/41 for 1:72 scale Revell kit £22.30 Gato class submarine for 1:72 revell kit £13.99 Elco PT596 1:35 scale £16.30 Tirpitz (designed to be used with Tamiya kits) £35.80 Wooden deck & Etch set or Bismarck 1:200 £111.20 DX Wooden deck & Etch for Bismarck 1:200 £199.20 Wooden deck for HMS Hood 1:350 scale £36.50 DX Wooden deck and etch Nelson 1:200 scale £199.99 Wooden deck for KG5 1:350 scale £31.99 Wooden deck for Bismarck 1:350 scale £33.60 Wooden deck for Prinz Eugen 1:350 scale £34.80 DX Wooden deck and etch for Missouri 1:200 £223.20 DX Wooden deck and etch for Hornet 1:200 £238.40 DX Wooden deck and Railing for Warspite 1:350 £53.80 DX 2Wooden deck & etch for Arizona 1:200 £269.99 DX Wooden deck and etch set for Hood 1:200 £238.99 Wooden deck for HMS Hood 1:200 £161.99 Wooden deck for Graf Spee1:350 scale £32.30 Wooden deck for HMS Repulse 1:350 scale £34.80 DX Wooden deck and Railing for Bismarck 1:350 £37.99 Flower Class Corvette Deck & Fittings Set 1:72 £99.99 Flower Class Corvette Type `C' Bridge Set 1:72 £38.40 This is just a selection from Gold Medal, MK1 Design, Master, Great Little Ships and Eduard.

Harold Underhill Plans Cutty Sark Clipper Ship 698mm Marie Sophie of Falmouth 1033mm Lady of Avenel. Wood. 850mm 74-Gun Two-Decker (Circa 1813 1422mm Lady Daphne Thames Sailing Barge812mm 12-Gun Brig-of-War. Lines, 1187mm Cunard Liner Servia, 1:192 scale 850mm 40-Gun Frigate (Circa 1790 831mm Valerian. Brixham Trawler 1069mm. Diesel Ring Net Fishing Boat 615mm Three Brothers. Rye Fishing Smack. 797mm Muirneag. Scottish Zulu- 1612mm Clyde Puffer Sealight, 588mm Leon. Wood Brigantine 514mm Iron Paddle Tug 1:48 scale 863mm This is just a selection of the range available.

£29.54 £44.41 £33.30 £77.71 £29.54 £55.51 £33.30 £66.61 £49.23 £29.53 £29.54 £66.61 £19.68 £59.07 £44.40

R/C Boat Plans MM1348 Miranda Steam Launch:42in £12.50 MM1040 Enterprise: 1:12 Northumbrian Coble £12.50 MM1390 Tyne Lifeboat: 740mm 1:19 scale £12.50 MM1426 H.M.S Inflexible battle-cruiser 1:192 £12.50 MM1256 H.M.S Exeter cruiser 1:192 £12.50 MM1387 H.M.S Diamond destroyer 1:96 £22.50 MM609 Brave Borderer: 36in Vosper P.B £12.50 MM672 H.M.S Hood: 1:192 scale £12.50 MM1367 Norfolk Wherry: 1:48 scale £12.50 MM1212 H.M.S Ark Royal : 1:192 scale £12.50 MM189 Will Everard Thames Barge: 1:48 scale £17.50 MM1290 Tank Landing Craft MkIV: 1:48 scale £17.50 MM153 Dinghy: 14 foot sailing dinghy21in £12.50 MM412 Range Safety Launch: 1:12 scale 43in £17.50 MM1292 Forceful: navy paddle tug. 1:48 scale £17.50 MM1365 Celia Jane: Sailing Barge 1:24 £22.50 MM1441 Formidable: Steam drifter 1:33 £17.50 MM567 Cervia:Thames tug in 1:48 scale £12.50 MM897 H.M.S Kent : 1:96 early cruiser 58in £17.50 MM1202 H.M.S Dreadnought 33in £17.50 MM1310 Clochlight Clyde Puffer 1:36 £37.50 MM1448 Liverpool Lifeboat: 1:12 scale £12.50 MM826 St Louis Belle: stern-wheeler 33in. £12.50 MM1178 Inchcolm Clyde puffe 1:32 scale £12.50 MM1275 Revive Brixham sailing trawler 1:60 £17.50 MM1368 Victoria:Thames steam launch 1:12 £12.50 MM737 Eileen: motor fishing boat 1:24 £12.50 MM1444 Pilot 40 police/pilot launch 27½ £12.50 MM500 Cossack: 38inTribal class destroyer £12.50 MM1335 Vosper 73ft rescue launch 1:24 scale £22.50 MM1407 Smit Nederland: 1:28 scale tug. £27.50

Static Display Kit Plans

Shirley Ann Inshore Trawler 1:16 scale 685mm £49.45 Victoria Steam Launch 1:12 scale 762mm £40.45 Pilot 40 . Pilot boat 698mm £50.45 Bluebird Of Chelsea . 1:24 scale 654mm £46.95 Forceful Paddle Tug . 1:48 1003mm £51.49 Guardsman Customs launch 1:32 scale 571mm £37.45 Smit Nederland Hull 558mm £42.45 St Louis Belle Mississippi Steamer 838mm £84.50 Liverpool Lifeboat l 905mm 1:12 scale £106.49 Cervia, Thames Tug 1:48 scale 711mm £96.50 Tyne Life Boat 1:19 scale 787mm £48.45

Plan & Material Packs Vosper MTB Hull Pack 670mm Higgins Hellcat CNC Pack 610mm HMS Temerity CNC Pack 890mm

Dockyard

£52.49 £57.49 £54.95

1004 Greek Bireme plan 560mm £8.70 1006 Vikingship, Osjberg plan 1:50 440mm £8.70 1009 Santa Maria plan 1:65 scale 540mm £10.82 1013 Mayflower plan, Scale 1:60. £13.80 1016 HMS Prince plan 750mm £24.50 1019 Greek Galley plan, .Length 560mm. £9.33 1021 Chinese Junk, plan 1:100 400mm £8.58 1028 HMS Victoryplan , 1:100 950mm £23.00 1032 HMS Bountyplan 1:60 720mm £16.41 1040 New Bedford Whaler plans 1:16. 550mm. £15.54 1200/03 Riva Aquarama plan 1:10 scale 860mm £28.23 1200/10 Endeavour Plan 1:80 480mm £10.82 1200/82 Endeavour J Class Plan 1:35 1130mm £27.36 1200/83 Titanic Plan 1:250 1070mm £59.69 1100/08 Revenge plan 1577 1:64 scale 885mm £36.06 1100/01 Lady Nelson Cutter Plan 1:64 530mm £10.82 1100/03 HMS Fly Plan 1:64 800mm £26.11

1100/04 HMS Vanguard Plan 1:72 1171 £49.49 1100/05 HMS Pegasus plan 1:64 800mm £26.11 1100/06 Mercury plan 1:64 860mm £30.71 969 HMS Victory plans, Scale 1:78. £29.95 971 Open Whaler, plans, Scale 1:16. £19.50 975 Victory Bow section, plans, Scale 1:78. £27.95 977 Armed Pinnace, plans, Scale 1:16. £19.95 979 Royal Caroline, plans, Scale 1:47. £28.50 990 Victory Long Boat, plans, Scale 1:16. £19.95 This is just a selection of over 1000 plans available

R/C Equipment Hitec Optic 6 (2.4 GHz) combo £119.99 Hitec Optic 5 channel (2.4 GHz) combo £89.99 Ikkonik 6 channel Transmitter and Receiver Set £59.95 Tamco 6 Channel 2.4GHz combo £49.95 Viper Marine 40 amp speed controller £54.99 FR30HX 30amp speed controller £49.95 15HVR 15amp speed controller £37.69 Viper Marine 25 amp speed controller £37.99 FR12VR 12amp speed controller BEC £33.86 Hi Tech Mega Arm Sail Winch 19.8kg/cm £30.99 Proportional Drum Sail Winch £30.63 Viper Marine 20amp speed controller £29.99 Viper Marine 15amp speed controller £24.99 Viper Micro Marine 10amp speed controller £24.99 Viper Marine 15 Plug Play speed controller £24.99 Programmable mixing module £21.99 Waterproof mixing module (w-tail) £16.99 Waterproof mixing module £16.99 Full range of R/C installation equipment available

Sound Modules Petrol/Diesel Engine with Horn Bilge Warning sensor, light and pump Steam Engine Sound Destroyer Whoop Whoop Fog Horn Sub Dive Alarm Air Horns Large Ship Horn Old Steam Whistle 16inch Guns Salvo Tug Boat Air Horn

£45.72 £30.66 £45.72 £37.62 £37.62 £37.62 £37.62 £37.62 £37.62 £37.62 £37.62

Motors Schottel drive unit 40mm dia prop £72.12 Schottel drive unit 50mm dia prop £90.72 Schottel drive unit 70mm dia prop £110.34 Mabuchi Low Drain 545 £9.96 Mabuchi 540 £7.43 Motor mount for MFA 800/850 Motors £4.50 385 Motor 6 to 15.0 Volt with mount £6.56 540 Motor 6 to 12.0 Volt with mount £10.36 RE800 Motor 12.0 Volt with mount £27.49 RE850 Motor 12.0 Volt with mount £27.49 Motor mount for 540/500.550 and 600 Motors £2.75 MFA 540 Motor and 2.5:1 Gearbox 4.5 -15v £19.33 MFA 540 Motor and 6:1 Gearbox 4.5 -15v £19.36 MFA 385 Motor and 2.5:1 Gearbox 4.5 -15v £17.56 950 series 385 Motor and 6:1 Gearbox 4.5 -15v £17.56 951 series 951 Motor and Gearbox 298:1 6volt, £9.00 800/850 Belt Drive Reduction Unit 2.1:1 £40.80

Rudder Assemblies 33 x 22mm Rudder Assembly 60 x 41mm Rudder Assembly 45mm x 30mm Rudder 53mm x 36mm Rudder 67mm x 44mm Rudder

£4.56 £5.34 £5.95 £5.53 £6.43

Coupling Assembies Single Universal Jount Coupling £8.53 Double Universal Joint Coupling £14.04 Coupling set includes 2 inserts of your choice and an allen key. Inserts sizes 2.0, 2.3, 3.0, 4.0, 5.0, 6.00mm plain M3, M4, M5 thread

Standard M4 Propshafts 4in long tube 4mm threaded Propshaft 5in long tube 4mm threaded Propshaft 6in long tube 4mm threaded Propshaft 7in long tube 4mm threaded Propshaft 8in long tube 4mm threaded Propshaft 9in long tube 4mm threaded Propshaft 10in long tube 4mm threaded Propshaft 11in long tube 4mm threaded Propshaft 12in long tube 4mm threaded Propshaft 13in long tube 4mm threaded Propshaft This is just a selection from our huge range

£7.55 £7.96 £8.10 £8.70 £8.95 £9.30 £9.70 £10.25 £11.05 £12.40

Raboesch Propshafts Waterproof Propeller Shaft M4 Waterproof Propeller Shaft M4 Waterproof Propeller Shaft M4 Waterproof Propeller Shaft M4 Waterproof Propeller Shaft M4

290mm 186mm 211mm 236mm 261mm

£25.32 £23.52 £23.52 £23.52 £25.74

Raboesch Brass Propellers Brass Propeller (A Type) 20mm -3 Blade-M4 £11.46 Brass Propeller (A Type) 25mm -3 Blade-M4 £11.46 Brass Propeller (A Type) 25mm -3 Blade-M4 £11.46 Brass Propeller (A Type) 30mm -3 Blade-M4 £12.48 Brass Propeller (A Type) 35mm -3 Blade-M4 £12.48 Brass Propeller (A Type) 40mm -3 Blade-M4 £12.48 Brass Propeller (A Type) 45mm -3 Blade-M4 £14.58 Brass Propeller (A Type) 50mm -3 Blade-M4 £14.58 Brass Propeller (A Type) 55mm -3 Blade-M4 £14.58 Brass Propeller (A Type) 60mm -3 Blade-M4 £17.64 Brass Propeller (A Type) 60mm -3 Blade-M4 £17.64 Brass Propeller (A Type) 65mm -3 Blade-M4 £17.64 Brass Propeller (A Type) 65mm -3 Blade-M4 £17.64 Brass Propeller (A Type) 70mm-3 Blade-M5 £20.28 Brass Propeller (A Type) 75mm -3 Blade-M5 £20.28 This is just a selection of a huge range of 3, 4 and 5 blades props in stock

Raboesch Bow Thrusters Bow thruster unit with motor 14mm I/D Bow thruster unit with motor 16mm I/D Bow thruster unit with motor 19mm I/D Bow thruster unit with motor 22mm I/D Bow thruster unit with motor 25mm I/D Mini Bow thruster unit with motor 10mm I/D Bow thruster unit with motor 30mm I/D

£39.00 £39.00 £39.00 £44.16 £44.16 £31.20 £93.48

Asst CAP Maquette Fittings CAP/R113 Modern boat fender, 48mm long CAP/R112 Modern boat fender, 39,mm long

£6.21 £5.73

CAP/R114 Modern boat fender, 56mm long £6.77 CAP/A48/15 Searchlight, 21mm dia x 28mm high £5.21 CAP/A84 Danforth anchor 50mm long £5.48 CAP/R940 'D' section fender 9mm high 2 mtr £7.81 CAP/R6 Liferaft container 58mm long £10.63 CAP/A62 Enclosed round radar array 30mm dia £5.88 CAP/A83 CQR Plough anchor. 60mm long £6.73 CAP/R70/20 Orange Lifebelt 30mm dia £5.63 CAP/A91/10 Motorboat/yacht winch 47mm wide £9.38 CAP/R103 Modern boat fender, 32mm dia £5.83 CAP/A112/10 Echo sounder 23mm x 19mm £5.79 CAP/R942 'D' section fender 15mm high 2 mtr £11.52 CAP/A70/15 Fire monitor kit 37mm high £12.35 CAP/AQ9G Chrome steering wheel 48mm dia £11.98 CAP/B60 60mm dia ship's wheel. Chrome £13.17 CAP/A110/15 Radar receiver and stand. 19mm £4.44 CAP/A68/15 GPS receiver radome 10mm high £1.40 CAP/A115/15 VHF radio base & handset 14mm £4.12 CAP/A112/10Echo sounder/ 23mm x 19mm £5.78 This is just a selection of the range available.

BECC Letters&Number sets 2A Arial Lettering 2 mm, 3A Arial Lettering 3 mm, 4A Arial Lettering 4 mm, 6A Arial Lettering 6 mm, 8A Arial Lettering 8 mm, 10A Arial Lettering 10 mm, 12A Arial Lettering 12 mm, 15A Arial Lettering 15 mm, 20A Arial Lettering 20 mm, 25A Arial Lettering 25 mm, 5A Arial Lettering 5 mm, Available in most colours

£4.25 £4.82 £4.82 £4.82 £5.36 £5.36 £6.43 £7.50 £8.57 £10.71 £4.59

Waterline Marking Sets Hull Markings Imperial, Colour: White, Size: 1:24 Hull Markings Imperial, Colour: White, Size: 1:32 Hull Markings Imperial, Colour: White, Size: 1:48 Hull Markings Imperial, Colour: Black, Size: 1:48 Hull Markings Imperial, Colour: White, Size: 1:72 Hull Markings Imperial, Colour: Black, Size: 1:72 Hull Markings Imperial, Colour: White, Size: 1:96 Hull Markings Imperial, Colour: Black, Size: 1:96 Hull Markings Metric, Colour: White, Size: 1:32 Hull Markings Metric, Colour: White, Size: 1:96 Hull Markings Imperial and Metric White 1:150 This is just a selection of the range available.

£4.82 £4.82 £4.82 £4.82 £4.82 £4.82 £4.82 £4.82 £4.82 £4.82 £4.82

6mm & 8mm vertical rung laddering £10.80 This is just a selection from the huge range available

Crew Figures 1:24 Standing civilian crew member £8.12 1:24 Seated crew figure wearing woollen hat £8.12 1:24 Standing R.N/Civilian officer with binoculars £8.12 1:24 Civilian crew member standing wearing beret £8.12 1:24 Civilian/R.N Officer wearing cap and pullover £8.12 1:24 R.N/Civilian wearing waterproof jacket £8.12 1:24 Standing civilian captain in sheepskin jacket £8.12 1:24 Seated ships captain with cap and pullover £8.12 1:24 Standing officer in wet weather jacket £8.12 1:24 R.N/Civilian wearing waterproof jacket £8.12 1:24 R.N crew in dress uniform leaning on rail £8.12 1:24 Seated civilian crew member 1:24 scale £8.12 1:96 scale crew figure set £7.37 Ships cat, sitting 1:48 Scale £1.72 Bearded Officer, 1:32 Scale £8.75 Crew member,1:32 Scale £8.75 Officer, clean shaven, 1 32 Scale £7.45 Bearded Officer1:48 Scale £6.12 Crew member, leaning on rail 1:48 Scale £5.35 Young boy,1:48 Scale £3.75 Small standing dog 1:48 Scale £1.65 Modern crew wearing dungarees 1:30 60mm £10.50 Modern crew in smock 1:30 scale 60mm £10.50 GM72/004 RN 1:72 Officers (Working Dress) (3) £7.40 GM72/005 RN 1:72 Ratings – pullovers (3) £7.40 GM72/006 RN 1:72 Officers – overalls (3) £7.40 GM72/007 RN 1:72 Crew – duffle coats (3) £7.40

Rigging Thread Rigging Thread, 0.1mm Natural Rigging Thread, 0.25mm Black Rigging Thread, 0.25mm Natural Rigging Thread, 0.5mm Black Rigging Thread, 0.5mm Natural Rigging Thread, 0.75mm Black Rigging Thread, 0.75mm Natural Rigging Thread, 1mm Black Rigging Thread, 1.0mm Natural Rigging Thread, 1.3mm Black (10mtr) Rigging Thread, 1.3mm Natural (10 mtr) Rigging Thread, 1.7mm Natural 5 mtr Rigging Thread, 1.8mm Black Rigging Thread, 2.5mm Natural (2.5mtr) This is just a selection of the range available.

£1.70 £1.70 £1.70 £1.81 £1.81 £1.98 £1.98 £2.10 £2.10 £2.84 £2.54 £3.18 £4.31 £4.42

BECC Flags

Timber

GB02 White Ensign, Size: AAA 10mm £3.20 GB02 White Ensign, Size: AA 15mm £3.20 GB02 White Ensign, Size: A 20mm £3.20 GB02 White Ensign, Size: B 25mm £3.20 GB02 White Ensign, Size: C 38mm £4.16 GB02 White Ensign, Size: D 50mm £4.16 GB02 White Ensign, Size: E 75mm £5.20 GB02 White Ensign, Size: F 100mm £6.27 GB02 White Ensign, Size: G 125mm £8.31 GB02 White Ensign, Size: H 150mm £10.41 Also available, Naval ensigns in Red, Blue as well and National flags from most maritime nations

Lime Strip 0.5mm x 2mm x 1000mm £0.34 Lime Strip 0.6 x 10mm x approx 1 metre long £0.31 Lime Strip 0.6 x 3mm x approx 1 metre long £0.35 Lime Strip 0.6 x 4mm x approx 1 metre long £0.38 Lime Strip 0.6 x 5mm x approx 1 metre long £0.41 Lime Strip 0.6 x 6mm x approx 1 metre long £0.44 Lime Strip 0.5 x 7x approx 1 metre long £0.47 Lime Strip 0.6 x 8mm x approx 1 metre long £0.25 Lime Strip 1.5 x 1.5mm x approx 1 metre long £0.36 Lime Strip 1.5 x 10mm x approx 1 metre long £0.73 Lime Strip 1.5 x 2.0mm x approx 1 metre long £0.40 Lime Strip 1.5 x 3.0mm x approx 1 metre long £0.45 Lime Strip 1.5 x 4.0mm x approx 1 metre long £0.50 Lime Strip 1.5 x 5mm x approx 1 metre long £0.55 Lime Strip 1.5 x 6mm x approx 1 metre long £0.58 Lime Strip 1.5 x 7mm x approx 1 metre long £0.61 Lime Strip 1.5 x 8mm x approx 1 metre long £0.65 Lime Strip 1 x 1mm x approx 1 metre long £0.36 Lime Strip 1 x 1.5mm x approx 1 metre long £0.36 Lime Strip 1 x 10mm x approx 1 metre long £0.55 Lime Strip 1 x 2mm x approx 1 metre long £0.37 Lime Strip 1 x 3mm x approx 1 metre long £0.38 Lime Strip 1 x 4mm x approx 1 metre long £0.39 Lime Strip 1 x 5mm x approx 1 metre long £0.45 Lime Strip 1 x 6mm x approx 1 metre long £0.50 Lime Strip 1 x 7mm x approx 1 metre long £0.51 Lime Strip 1 x 8mm x approx 1 metre long £0.53 Lime Sheet 0.5mm thick x 100mm x 1 mtr £5.82 Lime Sheet 1mm thick x 100mm x 1 mtr £5.40 Lime Sheet 1.5mm thick x 100mm x 1 mtr £6.70 Lime Sheet 10mm thick x 100mm x 1 mtr £15.59 Lime Sheet 2mm thick x 100mm x 1 mtr £8.09 Lime Sheet 20mm thick x 100mm x 1 mtr £31.76 Lime Sheet 3mm thick x 100mm x 1 mtr £9.53 Lime Sheet 4mm thick x 100mm x 1 mtr £12.71 Lime Sheet 5mm thick x 100mm x 1 mtr £12.71 Lime Sheet 6mm thick x 100mm x 1 mtr £12.13 Lime Sheet 8mm thick x 100mm x 1 mtr £13.86 This is just a selection of sizes. Other woods stocks include Walnut, Maple, Tanganykia, Beech, Pear, Balsa, Obechi

Quaycraft Ship’s Boats QR27 1:96 Scale 27ft Whaler 85mm £9.36 QD24 1:24 Scale 14ft Clinker Dinghy £20.28 QS77 1:72 27ft Clinker whaler 115mm £19.44 QD20 1:24 Scale 10ft Clinker Dinghy £17.88 QD38 1:32 Scale 16ft Clinker Dinghy, £19.08 QR25 1:96 Scale 25ft Motor cutter £9.84 QL37 1:32 Scale 16ft Clinker Ship s Lifeboat £19.08 QL59 1:48 scale. 22ft Lifeboat. double ended £16.56 QR16 1:96 Scale 16ft Dinghy 51mm £8.04 QD34 1:32 Scale 14ft Clinker Dinghy £17.76 QR26 1:96 Scale 25ft Fast motor boat £9.84 QS70 1:72 Scale 16ft Clinker dinghy, £9.48 QAL37 1:48 Scale 24ft Clinker Ship s Lifeboat £19.08 QL43 1:48 Scale 18ft Clinker Lifeboat £14.88 QL53 1:48 Scale 20ft double ended lifeboat £15.84 QR32 1:96 Scale 32ft Cutter post 1920 £13.68 QP27 1:48 Scale 27ft Royal Navy Whaler £22.32 QP25 1:48 Scale 25ft Motor cutter 162mm £31.92 QAP12 1:48 Scale 12ft Clinker dinghy£11.16 QS75 1:72 Motor cutter 2 cabins 109mm £20.88 QP16 1:48 Scale 16ft Royal Navy dinghy £11.04 QP14 1:48 14ft clinker dinghy 89mm £11.52 This is just a selection of over 100 boats available

1:72 scale Warship Fittings Flower Class Corvette Depth Charge Set £39.38 4in Gun Mark IX Breech Loading Gun 1:72" £26.35 Coastal Forces Guardrail Set £17.20 21in Torpedo and Tubes Set (2)" £17.20 Moored Mine & Sinker Set £17.20 Single 20mm Oerlikon Guns (2) £14.99 2 Pdr. Pom-Pom Gun with Bandstand 1:72 £14.99 16ft Dinghy & Stowage 67mm long 1:72 scale £14.29 Oval Carley Floats 43mm x 25mm (2) 1:72 £13.86 18in Torpedo and Tubes Set (2) £13.86 Rectangular Carley Floats 38x30mm (2) 1:72 £13.86 2in Rocket Flare Set incl. Stowage Boxes 1:72 £11.28 Hedgehog Anti-Sub. Weapon 1:72 scale £8.91 Chemical Smoke Apparatus & Smoke Float Set £8.91 Wooden Reversible Life Raft 1:72 £8.91 Single Depth Charge & Chute Set £8.91 Type A Mine Set (4) £8.91 Twin .303 Vickers Gas Operated MG Set (2) £8.91 9in Porthole (Scuttle) Set 4mm O/D (60) £7.69 Twin .303 Lewis Gun Set 1;72 scale (2) £7.69 Holman Projector 1:72 scale £7.69 20mm Twin Oerlikon £10.00 Radar and IFF aerials set £3.50 Small cowl vents £3.50 Boat hooks £2.50 Ready Ammunition Lockers type 2 £4.50 Chemical smoke apparatus £2.50 6pdr Mk.IIA gun on Mk.VII power mounting £12.00 Twin manual 20mm Oerlikon on Bandstand £12.00

Scalelink Etched Brass 11mm 3 rail stanchions & railing 840mm 1:96 R.N 3 rail stanchions and railing 11mm 1:128 scale vertical laddering 1:72 R.N pattern 3 rail stanchions and railing 1:192 R.N pattern 3 rail stanchions Clarendon serif Letters 2.5, 3 and 5mm high 1:200 Angled step ladders with handrail Vertical rung ladders 4.5mm & 5.5mm wide 1:128 Angled step companionway ladders 1:128 scale vertical laddering 5mm and 6mm wide Angled step ladders

£10.80 £10.80 £10.80 £10.80 £10.80 £10.80 £10.80 £10.50 £10.80 £10.80 £10.80

Admiralty Paints Available in 14ml flip top capped bottles in the following colours. Light Ivory, Red Ensign , Maroon Admiralty, Polished Bronze, Antique Bronze, Olive Green, Walnut Brown, Matt Flesh, Gold/Brass, Copper, Dull Black, Matt Black, Dull White, Matt White, Yellow Ochre, Red Ochre, French Blue, Flat Matt Varnish, Matt Varnish Satin Matt Varnish £2.39 per colour

Books Ship Modelling from Scratch £19.95 Advanced Ship Modelling by Brian King: £16.95 Scale Model Tugs £14.95 Period Ship Kit Builders Manual £16.95 Model Ships Fittings £12.95 Model Submarine Technology £12.95 Painting Model Boats £12.95 Scale Model Steamboats £12.95 Making Model Boats with Styrene £12.95 Simply Model Submarines £12.95 The Model Tug Boat Book: £12.95 Scale Model Warships £12.95 Scale Model Boats. Building & Operation £9.95 Radio Control In Model Boats £9.95 Introduction to Marine Modelling £9.95 Ship Modelling Solutions £9.95 Scratch Building Marine Models £9.95 Super-detailing the Cutter Sherbourne £19.00 This is just a selection from our huge range of books.

Modelling Tools Amati Electric Plank Bender Strip Clamp. Swann-Morton 3 knife ACM Tool Set 20 piece twist drill set .3 to 1.6mm Amati Pin Pusher De-Luxe Pin Pusher Waterline marking tool A3 cutting mat Pounce Tool with 4 wheels

£31.54 £32.95 £22.61 £13.23 £11.45 £9.07 £10.48 £11.18 £11.16

Winter issue 2017

Published by MyTimeMedia Ltd Suite 25, Eden House, Enterprise Way, Edenbridge, Kent TN8 6HF UK and Overseas: Tel: +44 (0) 1689 869 840 www.modelboats.co.uk

contents

SUBSCRIPTIONS

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FAIREY HUNTSMAN 23

Dave Milbourn presents a comprehensive article describing how to build a fine model of this classic leisure boat

Features 30 STEAM TUG KERNE

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FEATURED PLAN!

KIT REVIEW!

John Elliott builds the new Mountfleet Models Kit of this preserved tug

www.facebook.com/modelboatsmag twitter.com/modelboatsmag © MyTimeMedia Ltd. 2014 All rights reserved ISSN 0140-2910 The Publisher’s written consent must be obtained before any part of this publication may be reproduced in any form whatsoever, including photocopiers, and information retrieval systems. All reasonable care is taken in the preparation of the magazine contents, but the publishers cannot be held legally responsible for errors in the contents of this magazine or for any loss however arising from such errors, including loss resulting from negligence of our staff. Reliance placed upon the contents of this magazine is at reader’s own risk. Model Boats, ISSN 0140-2910, is published monthly with an additional issue in January by MYTIMEMEDIA Ltd, Enterprise House, Enterprise Way, Edenbridge, Kent, TN8 6HF, UK. The US annual subscription price is approximately 53.40GBP (equivalent to approximately 89USD). Airfreight and mailing in the USA by agent named Air Business Ltd, c/o Worldnet Shipping Inc., 156-15, 146th Avenue, 2nd Floor, Jamaica, NY 11434, USA. Periodicals postage paid at Jamaica NY 11431. US Postmaster: Send address changes to Model Boats, Worldnet Shipping Inc., 156-15, 146th Avenue, 2nd Floor, Jamaica, NY 11434, USA. Subscription records are maintained at dsb.net Ltd, 3 Queensbridge, The Lakes, Northampton, NN4 7BF.

38 HMS RENOWN, 1897 TO 1913 Andrew Dalton describes his award winning 1:96 scale radio controlled model battleship

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Model Boats Winter issue www.modelboats.co.uk

Bow piece his 100 pages Model Boats Winter 2017 Special Issue includes a New Plan Feature for the Fairey Huntress 23 to 1:12 scale. The plan, now available via Sarik Hobbies, has been designed by Dave Milbourn and we include his comprehensive supporting construction article. In addition, there is a full Kit Review by John Elliott of the new Mountfleet Models S.T. Kerne tug kit, and Andrew Dalton describes his Gold Medal award winning model of the late-19th Century battleship, HMS Renown. This Special issue has for its second thread a theme of ‘Improving your Modelling Skills’ and for this, John Parker is covering in depth the subject of building a fully working static diving submarine from scratch and Richard Simpson, who in his other life is Chief Engineer on a cruise liner, discusses the subject of detailing, and how best to do it really well. I am also pleased that Ron Rees returns to these pages demonstrating how to build a small vacuum forming machine for our home workshops and Chris Drage who has written the mini-series about Waterline Dioramas in the regular Model Boats magazine, presents a nice piece about converting the Tamiya O and P Class destroyer kit into something rather better and more specific. I would also like to say a big ‘Thank You’ to Colin Bishop who has proof read virtually all the articles in this Special Edition whilst I was on holiday in September and early October. He has ably supported me for many years now, both on the website and its forum, and during my extended cruise holidays. I hope in this Special 100 Page Special issue that there is something for all those who have a passion for model boats in their various forms, and please don’t forget to visit our website and participate in our Model Boats Forum. Model Boats is also on Twitter and Facebook for those readers who like to use social media. Paul Freshney - Editor

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50 HDW TYPE 209 SUBMARINE John Parker shows that it is practical to scratch build a static diving model

64 SMALL VACUUM FORMING MACHINE Ron Rees demonstrates how to build this device for the home workshop

74 MODELLING O & P CLASS WW2 EMERGENCY DESTROYERS Chris Drage discusses building an accurate miniature of one of these famous warships from a Tamiya kit

82 DETAILING Richard Simpson with a guide to improving your models

www.modelboats.co.uk Model Boats Winter issue

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FEATURE PLAN

FAIREY HUNTRESS Dave Milbourn presents a new r/c model plan feature

he Fairey Huntress had its origins in a hull designed by American Ray Hunt at the request of Richard Fairey, son of the company’s founder. The first hulls were totally open and featured a retractable dagger board which caused a plume of water to enter the hull at full speed. These were consequently a commercial flop and taken over by Bruce Campbell to be developed into ‘Christina’s’. Fairey then asked Alan Burnard to design a new 23 feet long cabin boat which became known as Huntress. This Huntress, and Huntsman 28 which was essentially a stretched Huntress 23 with twin engines, were made famous in the James Bond film ‘From Russia with Love’, where the hero drove a V8 powered version with extra fuel in drums mounted in the cockpit. The five boat chase was filmed on a Scottish loch and the fuel drums were jettisoned into the path of

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the pursuing boats and set on fire with a flare gun, plunging the bad guys into an inferno of what were actually just wooden mock-ups set alight on a Pinewood Studio set. Some of the Huntress hulls went to the UK Ministry of Defence for use as Captain’s ‘Jollyboats’ on naval vessels and these had strengthened lifting points and full-length spray rails to stiffen the hull. They also had access steps on the port side of the cockpit and a saluting platform just to the rear of the engine housing. The hull of the Huntress was made from hot-moulded Agba (Mahogany) veneers in six layers, each around 2.5mm thick. These were stapled into a mould, pushed into a tight-fitting rubber bag and baked for around 30 minutes in an autoclave under steam pressure, with the temperature rising to 100 degrees C. They were then left to cool and harden for a week. The ex-factory

PLAN FOR FAIREY HUNTRESS 23 The highly detailed full-size plan is now available from Sarik Hobbies priced at £12.50 + p/p as of late-October 2017. For current ordering information, please visit: www.sarikhobbies. com or tel: +44 (0)1684 311682 in normal working hours. Please also see their regular advertisement in this magazine for further contact information.

23 price for a completed boat in 1961 was £3965, which included a 215bhp V8 petrol engine. That compares with the price of the (then) brand new E-Type Jaguar Roadster at £1830. These days, things are very different, and the current market price for a restored Huntress 23 starts at around £12000, whereas a very rusty and non-running E-Type from 1961 was sold at auction in 2014 for £78000. While corresponding with Fairey Owner Scott Pett during the design and build of my earlier 1:16 scale Huntsman 31, he remarked that there were no plans or kits available for the Huntress 23. A little ‘Googling’ indicated that he was almost certainly right, so rectifying this became a personal mission. Having obtained an original Fairey general arrangement drawing and a set of hull lines, I set about drafting a model which would

be around the same physical size as the larger Huntsman, i.e. a bit less than 24 inches (600mm) long, which corresponds to a scale of 1:12. I must confess that the old-fashioned lines of the Huntress didn’t appeal to me initially as I much preferred the concave flared bow and sharply-raked stem of the larger Huntsman 31. However, as the build progressed they slowly grew on me, a bit like a love affair. One of my correspondents, who is a retired naval architect, says that he regards Fairey’s as the porn of the powerboat world, with Huntress as the centrefold. She certainly has far more charm and character than the fibreglass monstrosities we see these days at most marinas. The model isn’t true scale as it has been simplified in several areas. Notably it has a flat deck to allow the basic framework to be built upside-down on a board. The rudder tube has

also been moved forward to inside the hull, as the real one runs down the outside of the transom. The construction mirrors that of my earlier Huntsman, using Liteply sheet as the main material. A combination of Slo-Zap cyanoacrylate (superglue) and Deluxe Materials’ Aliphatic Resin glues was used for the main construction. Details of the other materials used are either mentioned in the text or on the plans. The second sheet of the plans shows the exact shape of every cut part and the direction of the surface grain. This is not a model for beginners, so you will probably already have your own preferred way of transferring the shapes to the wood. The following text explains the construction in a logical order. It’s by no means the only way of doing it, but please bear in mind that I’ve already built two more of these than you have, so let’s go…………..

www.modelboats.co.uk Model Boats Winter issue

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FEATURE PLAN

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“This is not a model for beginners, so you will probably already have your own preferred way of tran DECK AND BASIC FRAMES The keel is made from four parts: There are two identical parts each of two shapes and a P-bracket will need to be fitted to support the rear of the propshaft tube. Glue the two rear parts together, then the two front parts and allow to set, Photo 1, but please note that the two rear keel pieces need cutouts to form the slot needed to accept the P-bracket before being glued together Photo 2. Use the plan to get the correct angle and check that the P-bracket fits quite loosely into the slot, but don’t glue it in place just yet. These front and rear keel assemblies are then joined with a pair of ply doublers, forming a 6mm wide gap between them for the propshaft tube. Lay the two parts over the plan, making sure

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that the slots for the frames correspond to the plan and that the lower edges are dead straight and in line. Weight or pin down, then epoxy one of the rectangular doublers over the joint with its ends lining up with Frames 4 and 6. When set, turn the assembly over and glue the other doubler in place. Check that the propshaft tube will fit loosely in the slot formed, and use a rat-tail file to ease this slot if necessary, Photo 3. At this stage you should check with the plan that the motor and mount which you intend to fit will align correctly with the propshaft tube. The prototypes used identical 28mm diameter brushless motors on a 380 to 400 conventional brushed motor size moulded glass-nylon mount, in turn mounted on a 1/8 inch (3mm) thick birch plywood plate, and the

Model Boats Winter issue www.modelboats.co.uk

plan allows for this arrangement. If your motor and mount are of a different size, then you will need to adjust the top edge of the keel between Frames 2 and 3 until the centre lines of the motor’s output shaft and the propshaft itself, align correctly. If you leave this task until later, then you will have a nightmare of a job. Cut out the deck, including the centre section, mark the positions of the frames on it, and pin it down flat on the building board. Cut and glue the three lengths of 1/8 x 1/8 inch (3 x 3mm) square Basswood strip which fit along the sides and rear of the deck inside edge. Photo 4. Now slot each of the frames into the keel, position this assembly on the deck, and glue each of the frames in turn to that and the keel. Add the transom former across the back of Frame 7 and the breast hook Frame

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sferring the shapes to the wood.” 8 into the slot in the keel, Photos 5 and 6. When set, you will need to run a 6mm drill through the propshaft tube slot to remove the part of Frame 5 which crosses it. The chine stringers are made up of two laminations of 1/8 x 1/4 inch (3 x 6mm) Basswood strip. This can be obtained from specialist model timber suppliers and SLEC supplied all of the wood for this Huntress model. Obechi would do at a pinch as a substitute, but spruce is too hard and balsawood is too soft. Check the cutouts in the corners of the frames for accurate fit, then glue the first stringers in place, port and starboard, Photo 7. When completely set, add the second laminations and use plenty of spring clamps to hold in place while the glue dries, Photo 8.

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FEATURE PLAN

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FITTING THE HULL SKINS You will now need to shape the keel and the chine stringers to accept the bottom skins. Use a razor-plane and a flat Permagrit sanding block for this job. The website for Permagrit is: www.permagrit.com A good tip here is to mark the edges of the parts you need to shape with a pencil at intervals of 25 to 50mm, then plane and sand the wood away until the marks just disappear. The angle between the side and bottom skins becomes almost 180 degrees near the bow, so the join of the side and bottom sheets at the chine has to change from being an overlap rearward of Frame 2 to a butt-joint (edge-to-edge) between Frames 1 and 2. Make a card template as shown in Photo 9 to replicate this step, then cut the skins to fit. The bottom skinning is cut from pieces of 2mm Liteply, fitted with the grain running across the hull from keel to chine, Photo 10. Make sure that the butt-joints between the adjoining sheets are level and tight. The bottom skinning at the bow terminates flush with the front face of Frame 1. Carefully trim the edges of the bottom skins straight between Frames 2 and 3 to allow for the butt joint and fit the piece of side skin in this front bay first, with the grain running from chine to deck, Photo 11. Rearward of Frame 3 you should plane and sand the edges of the bottom skins and deck flush with each other and add the rest of the side skin from 2mm Liteply. Overlap the bottom

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13 skins and open out the propshaft tube and P-bracket slots as shown in Photo 12.

BOW AND TRANSOM Lower bow, below chine First, you should glue blocks of balsawood to the front of Frame 1, the small triangular Frame 8 and the front keel (breast hook) itself, Photo 13. When set, use a razor plane to roughly remove the excess material outward of the frames as in Photo 14. This will leave a gap between the blocks and the keel, skins and frames, which should be filled with a car body filler such as Isopon P38, Photo 15. Sand to shape and smooth off the bow with aluminium oxide finishing paper, starting with 120 grit and working up to 400 grit to finish, Photo 16. This is exceptionally good stuff for models. It is pale grey and has a slick texture

Model Boats Winter issue www.modelboats.co.uk

14 to the abrasive side and can be purchased in rolls from Internet suppliers. Always wrap it around a flat block in use and throw it away once worn. Transom The rear edges of the hull skins are sanded round for the transom, to match the curves of the deck and the transom former, Photo 17. Cut the transom sheet from 2mm Liteply with the grain running vertically, a little larger all round than the rear of the hull. This can be steamed to a curve over a kettle then held while it cools. Glue and tape in position while drying, then sand the edges flush with the skins and deck, Photo 18, and Photo 19 shows the complete hull with all the skinning and transom piece in place, and shaped. Glue the two rudder post support pieces either side of the rear keel inside the hull as shown in Photo 20.

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FEATURE PLAN

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COAMING AND CABIN SIDES The coaming strips are 12mm wide strips cut from 2mm Liteply and glued around the edge of the deck cutout, up against the basswood strips which you fitted way back when you first laid down the deck upside down. The edges of the coamings should be 1/4 inch (6mm) above the deck all round, Photo 21. The whole of the superstructure is removable for access to the radio and battery etc. It should be built over the coamings so that it will fit snugly when finished. Note that the bottom edges of the cabin sides are NOT dead straight, but curve very slightly to allow for both the inward slope of the cabin and the curve of the coamings. Cut the parts out first, if possible using a band-saw or scroll-saw to cut the two sides as one, so they are identical. Please note that the pictures show the cabin sides made from 1/8 inch (3mm) Liteply, but this proved a bit fragile when handling, so Model No. 2 (remember I have built two of these as prototypes) had 1/16 inch (1.5mm) birch ply sides which are shown on the plans. Clamp, or lightly tack-glue, Frame 4a on top of Frame 4, Photo 22. Check the fit of the cabin sides, adjusting the curve of the bottom

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“ The whole of the superstructure is removable for access to the radio and battery etc. It should be built over the coamings so that it will fit snugly when finished.” edge if necessary, and mark the position of Frame 4a accurately on them from the plan. Glue and pin them to the edge of that frame, making sure that no glue is allowed to get between the coaming and cabin sides. Chamfer the lower edge of the cabin front frame and glue this in place, along with the roof support beam, Photo 23. Glue strips of 1/8 x 1/8 inch (3 x 3mm) Obechi or basswood along the top edges of the cabin sides above the windows, then sand them to match the curve of Frame 4a, Photo 24.

ROOF PLANKING The roofs are planked with 1/8 x 3/8 inch (3 x 9mm) Obechi strips, or you could use balsawood provided it isn’t too soft. The curve from front to back isn’t very pronounced, but you can steam each plank to a curve if you

prefer to make gluing easier. Slo-Zap was used to glue the planks to the frames and a bead of Aliphatic glue was run along the edge of each plank where it fitted against the next one. Wipe off any excess glue with a damp cloth as you proceed. Begin with the planks each side of the centre line, Photo 25, then add planks one at a time to alternate sides. Taper each plank as you fit it so that they end up parallel with the cabin sides at the edge when finished, Photo 26. When set, draw pencil lines across the planking from one side to the other at about 3/4 inch (18mm) intervals, Photo 27. Sand with 120 through to 400 grit paper on a flat block, using a circular motion, until these marks disappear and you have a nice smooth curve to the roof. Fill any gaps with balsawood filler and sand smooth again, and then trim the ends with a razor saw or sanding block, Photo 28.

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FEATURE PLAN

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COCKPIT The cockpit sides are fixed to 1/8 inch (3mm) thick basswood strips which run along the top edge of the cabin sides aft of Frame 4a. Glue these in place slightly higher than the sides and then sand them back to match the curve of the roof, Photo 29. The cockpit sides are cut from 2mm Liteply and glued in place 1/8 inch (3mm) higher than the tops of the 1/16 inch (1.5mm) plywood cabin sides, please see the plan for sectional views. You might be well advised to sand and seal them prior to fitting as this will make painting much easier than if left for later. At the same time, sand and seal the cockpit front and rear formers and the three pieces of 1/8 inch (3mm) Liteply which make up the cockpit floor, Photos 30 and 31. Now have a really good look at Photos 32 and 33. These show how the cockpit floor ends as a

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seat, which in turn overlaps the coamings and touches the deck between the very ends of the cabin sides. All of the relevant parts are cut from 1/8 inch (3mm) Liteply to the shapes on Sheet 2 of the Huntress 23 Plan and fettled until they fit snugly in place. Make sure that you have the whole cabin taped and/or pinned down flat to the deck while you glue these in place. If you induce a twist into the superstructure at this stage, then I am sorry to say that you will never get rid of it. Photo 34 shows how a slot is cut into the capping of the cockpit sides to permit the windscreen to be fitted later. Photos 35 and 36 show how the cockpit sides on the prototypes were finished with mahogany veneer and a half-round strip. There are balsawood in-fills to thicken the sides behind the seat coaming. Quite how you finish off areas such as this

Model Boats Winter issue www.modelboats.co.uk

depends on your own personal taste or the particular full-size Huntress which you are modelling. There are detailed photographs of many different boats on the Fairey Owners’ Club website from which to choose.

SURFACE PREPARATION You’re getting very close to applying the final finish to the model now. If you have used Liteply, then it’s a good idea to fill the grain. The prototypes used Deluxe Materials’ Model Lite but ordinary Fine Surface Polyfilla seems to work just as well. Just apply it thinly with a plastic card or squeegee and allow to dry, then sand back to the wood with 320 grit abrasive, Photo 37. Brush off all the dust and then go over the whole hull again with the dusting brush on the household vacuum-

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37 cleaner, just to be sure. The sharp eyed amongst you might have noticed earlier that (referring back to Photo 24) the inside of that particular hull had already been sealed.

COVERING WITH CLOTH AND EPOXY RESIN Lightweight glass-fibre cloth and epoxy finishing resin is the preferred finishing method for most of my wooden models. It’s a lot easier these days to obtain good-quality materials, which makes sanding the resin no longer the chore it used to be and here’s how to tackle the Huntress. Use the 1oz per sq. metre cloth, which is one grade heavier than the very lightest available. Cut the cloth a few inches larger all round than the area to be covered. Take care not to

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38 stretch the cloth or you’ll open up big gaps in the weave which will be difficult to fill. Apply a very light coat of 3M’s Spray Mount all over the surface to be covered. A light dusting allowed to settle from about a foot away is all that’s required to make the hull slightly tacky to the touch. Now lay the cloth gently on to the hull, starting along the keel and gently smoothing it out towards the edge. When you’re happy with this, mix up some Z-Poxy Finishing Resin, adding about 10% ethanol to thin it. This is also known as ‘rubbing alcohol’ and it can be obtained from various sources on the Internet. Apply a coat of resin all over the cloth, again starting along the keel and brushing outwards. Take special care along the edges. You can use an old plastic bank card to squeegee out any excess resin if you wish, Photo 38.

Allow this to set thoroughly (about 3 hours at room temperature) then ‘feather’ off the excess cloth around the edges with some 320 grit abrasive and then cover the hull sides and transom in the same way. Apply another thin coat of resin all over the hull, leave it to set and then rub down the finished hull. The inside of the hull must be waterproofed to prevent the joints from coming apart etc., and as already mentioned, that can be done earlier in the building process if you wish. Use a couple of coats of finishing resin, thinned as before and there’s no need to be fussy – just slosh it around until everything is thoroughly soaked then leave to set. The same method is also used to finish the cabin sides and roof, with a more conventional dope-and-tissue method for the inside of the cockpit.

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FEATURE PLAN

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CHINE RAILS AND SPRAY STRIPS Now is the time to fit the two (chine) rails along the edge of, not surprisingly, the chines. These are vital to the proper planing performance of the boat and must not under any circumstances be left off. You have been warned! Round off one corner only of a length of 1/8 x 1/8 inch (3 x 3mm) strip basswood and taper it towards the front end. This is the upper outside edge of the rail. The lower outside corner is left uncompromisingly sharp, please see the sections on the plan. Mark a line along the corner of the chine (where the side and bottom skins meet) with a soft pencil and continue it smoothly up towards the bow. The bottom edge of the rail goes along this line. Fit the rail with slow-setting superglue, gluing about 4 inches (100mm) at a time and holding it against the hull until it has set. You might want to speed things up by using an accelerator spray, but be aware that some cyano’ adhesives don’t work with this stuff (e.g. Slo-ZAP). Check as you go that you don’t build a kink or a wave into this rail, because it should be a continuous smooth curve and repeat for the other side of the hull. The eight spray rails on the bottom of the hull are fitted parallel with the keel and equally spaced out from it, please see the reduced scale sketch on the plan. These are frankly a real pain to get absolutely right, but they do add so much to the appearance of Huntress and quite how it would perform without them is a matter for conjecture. Those on the prototypes were made by planing some 1/8 x 1/4 inch (3 x 6mm) Basswood strips to a roughly triangular section, then ‘Zapping’ them on to the hull. When set, the gaps were filled with a mixture of Z-Poxy and microballoons, smoothing this out and letting it set before being carefully sanded so that the bottom face of each one was (about!) parallel

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42 with the horizontal waterline. Did anyone say this was a beginner’s model? Photo 39 shows the chine and spray rails all fitted, along with the propshaft tube, rudder tube and P-bracket, but we’ll come back to those later. At this stage you’ll probably be looking around for a job to do while other stuff sets, so make up the battery box to suit your preferred pack (a LiPo in this case) as shown in Photos 40 and 41.

PROPSHAFT AND RUDDER TUBES The final tasks before colour coat painting are to fit the propshaft and rudder tubes. First, cut the motor mount plate from 1/8 inch (3mm) birch (marine) ply, mark the position of the plastic mount and drill for the fixing screws. Temporarily screw the motor and mount in place. Roughen the outside of the propshaft tube where it fits through the keel with coarse

Model Boats Winter issue www.modelboats.co.uk

abrasive paper, or a file, to provide a ‘key’ for the epoxy glue. Roughen the brass part of the P-bracket with coarse abrasive and slip it into its slot in the keel. Push the propshaft tube through the P-bracket and into the hole formed by the keel parts. It should be quite loose and free to wobble up and down at each end. You will need a rigid coupling in order to align the motor and propshaft exactly. If you use Model Boat Bits’ flexible couplings you’ll find that a length of 15mm o.d. Polypipe makes a perfect shaft aligner if you split it along its length and clamp it over the coupling with tie-wraps, Photo 42. Screw the end of the shaft into the coupling’s threaded end and this should give you a rigid assembly comprising the motor and its mount, the aligner, propshaft and tube. A piece of stiff card also serves as an alternative means of stiffening the coupling if you wrap this around it, and

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46 then tie-wrap it securely. Using a 30 minutes epoxy, glue the plywood mount squarely to the top of the keel. Shuffle the propshaft tube along until it is exactly in position. The outer end of the tube is 58mm ahead of the extreme rear end of the keel, and tack glue the tube in place where it emerges from the keel at each end with a dab of epoxy. Give the alignment a final check by turning the aligner and making sure that nothing moves laterally. When the epoxy has set, remove the propshaft, motor and coupling and apply some generous dollops of epoxy to the tube where you tack-glued it before. You should aim to form a smooth fillet of glue which fills any gaps between the tube and keel, and do the same to the P-bracket, Photo 43.

RUDDER The rudders for the two prototype models were made from 0.8mm brass sheet and 4mm o.d. brass rod as shown in Photos 44 and 45. Soft-solder is sufficient to hold the blade in place for small models like this Huntress, but you may wish to drill through the shaft and blade and peg the assembly before soldering it, for added security. Alternatively, you could buy a commercial rudder unit and reshape the rudder blade to suit. A tiller arm with a brass or steel collet and a grub screw is preferred to the type which simply squeezes

the shaft by tightening a screw and nut. Raboesch and SHG Marine Models both manufacture the collet type for different diameter rudder shafts. Mark the position of the rudder tube on the exact centre-line of the keel and 21mm ahead of the transom. Drill a 5mm diameter hole vertically into the keel, ensuring this is exactly vertical or the rudder will lean to one side when fitted. Cut a length of 5mm o.d. brass tube as shown on the plan. Roughen its outside with abrasive to provide a good key for the adhesive, then epoxy it into the hole. Leave the outer end very slightly proud of the keel and fillet it with epoxy, Photo 46. Make sure that no glue creeps into the tube while you’re not looking………

WOODWORK Most of the original Huntresses had Fairey’s own canvas-like covering on the decks, but if you wish to veneer the deck it would be best to do it now. Teak veneer was glued on with Evo-Stick impact adhesive. The floor panels of the cockpit were also veneered and some scraps were retained for dummy door frames and locker lids etc. The hardwood rubbing strip is best fitted at this time as well. Sand the edges of the deck at 90 degrees to the top all the way round. A Permagrit block was used for this, marking off a strip approximately 1/8 inch (3mm) wide as a guide to the depth required. Make the rubbing strips from 1/16 x 1/8 inch (1.5 x 3mm) mahogany strip and overlap the two sides at the stem. A little steam helps to form the bends, and fit the strip with superglue about 4 inches (100mm) at a time, just as you did with the chine rails. Sand the rubbing strip half-round and seal when finished. The teak deck, cockpit edges and rubbing strips were rubbed down and given three thinned coats of Rustin’s Plastic Coating, rubbing down between each coat. You can now fit the toe rails as shown on

45 the plans if they are appropriate, but some boats didn’t have them. The strips were then masked before applying the paint finish to the rest of the hull.

PAINTING My preferred paint system is to use Halford’s aerosol car sprays. These don’t attack the epoxy at all, and if you stick to using just the one type of paint they won’t chemically attack each other either. Small detail work is done with Humbrol enamels or similar afterwards. First apply a coat of primer/filler, which is a high-build primer, usually of a deep yellow colour. Normally, one coat will fill any of the weave of the cloth which still shows, and then rub down with 320 grit paper. The Fairy Owners Club has a website with a large gallery of different Fairey boats, including a number of Huntresses. You could choose to reproduce one of these or invent your own colour scheme. The prototype models were what could be called ‘almost scale’ versions of Lazy Doll and Maid of Baltimore, whose names were changed ever so slightly to Lazy Dog and Maid of Balamory, so that no-one could do a rivet counting job on them. The nameplates were cut from selfadhesive vinyl by Callie Graphics of New Mexico while fellow Internet forum members Gary Scholz and Terry Simmonds were responsible for the vinyl door vents and racing numbers on Maid of Balamory as featured here. Waterslide transfers of the Fairey Wings Logo were added to the bows, with a coat of Satincote varnish to seal and finish everything.

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FEATURE PLAN GALLERY

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FEATURE PLAN

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48 50

49 MAKING IT REAL……… You can complete Huntress with very little scale detail or you can go crazy with it. The plan and photos show the fittings added to Maid of Balamory. Some were purchased, but most were scratch built from bits of scrap wood, styrene sheet, brass rod and tube etc. Swim ladder This is a key feature and was made from 1/16 inch (1.5mm) birch plywood, stained mahogany after it had dried, and then varnished and glued later to the hull with canopy glue, Photo 47. Engine housing This is made from 1/8 inch (3mm) Liteply and then veneered, varnished and painted as in Photos 48 and 49. The scoops and mushroom vents on the cabin roof were made from resin castings which in turn came from a wooden plug and rubber mould, Photo 50. Alternatively, they could be carved from balsawood or moulded from styrene sheet, which would be heated with a hot-air gun and pressed over a wooden plug. The seats were carved from high-density patternmaker’s foam with 0.5mm styrene piping superglued along the edges, Photo 51. Hard (ish) balsawood would do the job equally as well. Maid of Balamory features folding front seats as does the full-size, figuring that

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51 the best way of making them look like the real thing was to replicate these and the plan shows the parts drawn twice actual size, although the dimension are correct and Photo 52 shows them folded. The helm, Photo 53, has an annealed brass rim and hard brass wire spokes with a styrene hub, truly a real pig of a job. There is a pictorial sequence somewhere of how it was made, but it would fill two pages and no doubt someone would probably say, ‘Why didn’t you do it this way instead’? Console yourself with the fact that over 240 boats were built and it’s likely that no two had identical steering wheels, so if you can’t face the prospect of making one, then search around until you find something that looks right.

Model Boats Winter issue www.modelboats.co.uk

WINDSCREEN AND WINDOWS Windscreen One thing which you MUST fit is this, as Huntress will look very odd without it. There is a template on the plan so you have little excuse. Cut it from card and then trim the lower edges until it fits your model exactly. It won’t be far out if you’ve traced the shape accurately. You can obtain 0.5mm clear acetate sheet from a supplier of artist materials or on the Internet where its normal use is for overhead projector transparency slides and an A3 sheet will do all of the glazing nicely. Mask and paint the dummy frame while the windscreen is still flat on the bench. The tab at the front fits into a slot which is cut in the roof of the cabin, while the lower edges at

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“Over 240 boats were

built and it’s likely that no two had identical steering wheels, so if you can’t face the prospect of making one, then search around until you find something that looks right..” the sides form long tabs which are glued into the slots along the top edge of the cockpit. Deluxe Materials RC Modellers Canopy Glue is best for this job, although there are other types available. They are all quite viscous and are an opaque white when liquid, just like a PVA glue, but they dry clear and slightly flexible. A very fine nozzle was pushed on to the bottle of glue and a thin bead of glue was squeezed all around the joint at the rear and inside of the screen, holding the screen down to the cabin with short lengths of masking tape on the outside. You can clean up excess wet adhesive with water. If you’re unlucky enough to get some glue onto the clear panel then don’t try to wipe it off – you’ll just smear it. It will peel off once set if you use a plastic tool to lift the edges. Don’t use a metal blade or you will surely scratch the acetate. Photo 54 shows the final result, as well as some of the

cockpit detail – remember this is 1:12 scale so as much as possible needs to be included. Windows These are made by first cutting out some card or styrene templates using the actual window apertures as tracing patterns. Next draw a frame which is approx. 2.5mm wider on the outside of the line you have drawn with the template, Photo 55, and cut out the three shapes, Photo 56, the port and starboard side windows being (in theory!) identical. Use these templates to make the five window panels from 0.5mm clear acetate, Photo 57. Now apply some selfadhesive mirror-chrome vinyl to the whole window frame, trimming the outer edges with a sharp blade, Photo 58. Take the three styrene templates and cut them back to the original lines of the cut-outs then tape each one to its corresponding panel as shown in

61 Photo 59. With a very sharp blade and light pressure, cut around the styrene template, through the vinyl and remove the middle section, leaving a clear panel framed with bright metallic vinyl, Photo 60. Now you can experiment with a scrap piece, pushing a scriber or similar pointed thing into the rear of the acetate to form the distinctive rivets, Photo 61. Once you’re happy with the technique you can finish the other four windows and their frames and glue them in place with canopy glue as for the windscreen.

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FEATURE PLAN

62 PULPIT This is another feature which is often left off, although it gives Huntress a lot of her character. Bend it from 2mm brass rod and solder the supports to it in a jig made from MDF, Photo 62. Paint the finished article and then epoxy it into holes in the deck. Both models used U-Pol Etching metal primer followed by airbrushed coats of Base Black and Chrome AK Extreme Metal paint, with a finishing coat of their exotically named, ‘Intermediate Gauzy Agent Shine Enhancer’, which is a clear varnish to protect the metallic stuff underneath. This is by no means cheap, but it’s the best chrome finish I’ve used. The scoops and deck fittings and powertrain were also painted with this system.

RADIO INSTALLATION Photo 63 is a general view of the interior and its layout. Both prototypes used the same drive train, with a 2600mAh 3S 11.1v LiPo pack providing the ‘oomph’ to a Prop Shop 1415

64 three bladed scale bronze propeller via a Turnigy 2836/11 750kv brushless motor. This proved to be a very compatible setup when connected to a 30 Amp speed controller, such as a Fusion Hawk or Component Shop V3 30A type. Maid of Balamory has a little device called a Lithimon 234 Battery Monitor fitted. This clever little device smooths out the Peak Pulse Effect which can cause damage to LiPo batteries from high-frequency PWM speed controllers, as well as being a sophisticated

battery monitor and low-voltage alarm. Have a look at Dawnmist’s website for full details, and they do all sorts of other fascinating items for radio controlled models. Both models have Hitec 2.4GHz Optic 6 radios, one with the tiny Minima 6 receiver and an Optima 7 in the other, both with HS81 rudder servos. An ACTion P106 was fitted in the wiring harness to the Hawk speed controller to permit the use of a small, low current slide switch for isolating the main battery. The Component Shop V3 ESC has its own switch already fitted. Photo 64 is a diagrammatic view of the two alternative esc arrangements used in the prototype Huntresses. Don’t be tempted to fit a larger and heavier battery because not only does Huntress not need one, but you’ll kill the performance by making the model too heavy. The battery box will accommodate up to six AA NiMH cells in a 2 x 3 parallel formation as an alternative to the LiPo pack, but the latter is to be preferred as it will be inevitably lighter and deliver more volts.

ON THE WATER You won’t need any ballast in Huntress if you’ve built and kitted it out more or less the same as shown on the plan. Powerboats need to be light to perform properly, so please regard the painted waterline simply as decoration. Restrict the rudder movement to 20 degrees each way. This is a rough water, deep vee hull and even with that amount of rudder the model will bank over like the real thing when you apply a steering command. Huntress, being 1:12 scale, is broader in the

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65 beam than the earlier 1:16 scale Huntsman and so isn’t quite as intolerant of heavyhanded steering, but she will still turn round and bite you if you treat the rudder stick like an on/off switch and Photos 65 and 66 are of Maid of Balamory showing her paces. My original reservations about Huntress’

lines were completely dispelled when she took to the water and Martin Davis has kindly taken a video of some of the 2016 Wicksteed Park session. It’s on YouTube: https://www.youtube. com/watch?v=JzHGhfT45wo&feature=youtu. be (from about 7mins 20secs in). It’s interesting to compare the way she

rides the water with the video of the full-sized Dawn Huntress on the Fairey Owners Club website, just like the real thing and very pretty. So there we are – I know you will want to build one! Enjoy your hobby – Dave Milbourn

SUPPLIER DETAILS SLEC: www.slecuk.com Liteply, balsawood, Obechi, basswood, mahogany, 380 to 400 sized glass-nylon motor mount Component Shop: www.componentshop.co.uk 30A V3 marine esc, LiPo cells, P106 & switch Hobby King: www.hobbyking.com/en_us/ Turnigy 2836/11 750kv brushless motor Dawnmist: www.dawnmist.org/rcm.htm#2 Lithimon ‘234’ LiPo battery monitor Deluxe Materials: www.deluxematerials.co.uk GRP cloth, adhesives, balsa filler Gliders And Racing Models Ltd: www.gliders.uk.com Slo-ZAP, Z-Poxy Finishing Resin Model Boat Bits: www.modelboatbits.com Prop shaft, tube, flexible coupling and P-bracket

Prop Shop: www.prop-shop.co.uk Propeller Cornwall Model boats: www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk CAP Maquettes fittings, Fusion Hawk 30 Amp esc Servo shop: www.servoshop.co.uk Hitec HS81 Servo Tool Bank: www.toolbank.com Silicon-carbide finishing paper E Models Hobby Store: www.emodels.co.uk/model-paint-shop AK Interactive paints The Fairey Owners Club: www.faireyownersclub.co.uk Photographic references On the water photos are by Martin Davis and some by the author. My thanks to Martin, and to Fairey Owner’s Scott Pett and Chris Barker for all their invaluable help and support.

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KIT REVIEW

STEAM TUG KERNE & HMT TERRIER John Elliott reviews the latest Mountfleet Models kit

his is the latest kit from Mountfleet Models and has been made in association with The Steam Tug Kerne Preservation Society. This 1:32 scale kit can be made in two different versions, S. T. Kerne as she is today or H.M.T. Terrier as in 1913 for the Royal Navy. She was built by Montrose Building Company and was intended for commercial use under the name Viking. In April 1913 she was acquired by the Admiralty for use in the Medway and Chatham Docks and named HM Tug Terrier. During 1948 she was sold to J. P. Knight Ltd. and renamed Kerne. She only stayed with them a short while and was then sold to The Straits Steamship Company

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where she remained for the next 22 years, working on and around the Manchester Ship Canal. In 1971 she was offered for sale to a ship breaker which is when a group of steam enthusiasts purchased her and started the current restoration project.

THE KIT This comes in a sturdy box including a fullsize plan, GRP hull measuring 780mm (28 3/8 ins) in length with a beam of 190mm (7 1/2ins), Photo 1. A GRP superstructure, plastic funnel, printed wood for the deck and cabin, selection of wood sheet and sections, plastic strips and tubes in both metal and

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plastic are included. There are nine bags of metal and resin fittings totalling over 200 parts and one for a crew member. Also included with the kit is a propshaft and 65mm three bladed brass propeller. The building manual is comprehensive and includes many coloured pictures, Photo 2, and it also has the parts listed with reference to the plan, so checking them when you receive the kit is straightforward. Included is membership of the Friends Association of The Steam Tug Kerne Preservation Society for one year. As a ‘friend’ you will be able to visit the tug (normally around the Liverpool area), which could prove useful if you want to gain more photographic information and data before

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DATA BOX Kit Motor Speed controller Servo Battery LiPo voltage checker 2s to 8s Coupling Motor mount Magnets

you start building. I decided to build the tug as S.T. Kerne rather than H.M.T. Terrier, a personal preference swayed by the number of photos of the former on the Internet. After checking the contents, any flashings on the alloy and resin parts were cleaned and trimmed. This process further enables you to familiarise yourself with the kit parts and then everything is ready for construction to commence.

THE HULL This had a few minor blemishes from the moulding process which were easily removed with fine abrasive paper. Next, a

Mountfleet Models Turnigy D3536 910 KV from Hobby King Trackstar 30 Amp 1:16 scale, Hobby King No. 15138 from Hobby King Turnigy 3600 mAH LiPo from Hobby King Hobby King Powerflex type from Model Boat Bits 500 or 600 type, plastic from Model Boat Bits 10 x 10mm Neodymium from Hobbyking

hole was drilled for the propshaft and as the instructions advised, this was started with a small drill and gradually increased to 8mm diameter. Despite my best efforts, I did manage to crack the GRP gel coat. Photo 3, but this was not a problem as it could be easily filled with car body filler (Isopon P38) after the propshaft tube was later fitted. This propshaft tube was modified by fitting an oiling tube at its inner end, always a good idea on our scale models, Photo 4. The process is simple, in that all you need to do is to drill a hole in the tube near the drive end and solder in place a small bore brass tube making sure that it does not foul the propshaft. Page 29 of the August 2017 Model Boats magazine has a

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KIT REVIEW

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useful ‘Hints and Tips’ note from Glynn Guest about this. The stern plate was next followed by the rudder shaft tube, this being made a little bit deeper than the instructions so that it just touched the top of the rudder, Photo 5. Care needs to be taken with this, as there is only a small amount of space between the deck and hull bottom for the rudder’s operating linkage, so please check the instructions about marking the deck position first using the recommended jig, Photo 6. Marking the deck level with this tool is easy and the top of the uppermost rubbing strip aligns nicely with the bottom of the freeing ports, this also matching the thickness of the deck, Photo 7 showing the pencil mark. This last picture also shows how to put a mini-bulkhead, from scrap plastic tube, around the top of the rudder shaft tube, to make gluing it much easier and neater, as well as the securing pin for the top of the rudder’s cast skeg. Now is a good time to think about fitting the motor, its mount and coupling, but don’t glue

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these until they are all correctly positioned and you are satisfied that everything is properly in alignment. Measurements are given in the instructions and these are useful and accurate, which helps for a trouble-free build. The motor choice is down to the builder and I chose to go down the low(ish) kv (rpm per volt) brushless motor route, Photo 8, but others may choose to stick with a conventional brushed motor. This Turnigy motor is in fact ‘turned down’ electronically via the r/c system to a maximum speed of 40% and later trials proved this was absolutely fine. The rubber coupling is from Model Boat Bits and the motor mounting is a standard plastic 500 type. The freeing ports were now marked using the measurements given, Photo 9, and cut out with a combination of chain-drilling and filing. The styrene deck edge supports could now be installed doubled, and doublechecking the measurements and marked line before gluing, Photo 10. If you get it wrong, it is hard work remedying the mistake.

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Cast resin ‘across the hull’ deck beams are supplied in the kit and this is the first time I have seen these, and really liked the way they camber the deck and are also easy to cut to size. A small amount of trimming may be necessary to ensure the tops of the beams align perfectly with the top of the styrene side supports, Photo 11. Before all the beams were finally glued in position, the rudder servo and its linkage were positioned, Photo 12, together with supports for the battery, receiver and electronic speed controller just forward of the motor, Photo 13. It is much easier to do this now, BUT do remember that access to these components will be needed once the deck is fixed over them all, as it is Sod’s Law that something that is inaccessible will definitely go wrong, sooner rather than later.

MAIN DECK & BULWARKS After fixing the deck over the edge stringers and resin beams, filling one or two small gaps around its edge and applying a test coat of

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primer to see if all looked okay, plating the deck seem a good idea, this being optional as suggested in the instructions. This was done with normal plain white paper cut into 75 x 45mm rectangles, fixed using Aliphatic glue, Photo 14. They actually look quite good, the slightly rough texture replicating rough cast sheet metal from the early 20th Century. The next tasks include fixing a combing around the main access hole in the deck and adding the bulwark supports, in no particular order and as the mood takes you. The main superstructure’s GRP moulding has sloping rather than vertical sides, so the hull’s internal access opening is smaller than its overall deck dimensions. Lengths of square timber were glued beneath the deck around the hole’s edges, which in turn had pieces of the (supplied) plywood glued to them vertically to create the coaming, Photo 15. The bulwark supports have a suggested 34mm interval, but this means that a couple of them coincide with a freeing port. This was easily resolved with some minor adjustments, and they can also be seen in this last picture together with the deck paper plate joins if you look closely. The bulwark has a capping rail which is a long piece of inverted U-shaped plastic extrusion, a novel idea which works extremely well resulting in a very nice finishing touch and this can just be seen in the last picture and others of the completed S.T. Kerne.

SUPERSTRUCTURE This is a relatively simple unit that lifts-off as one unit. The lower part is a GRP moulding, but the deck cambers in both directions so once positioned over its coaming, its lower

16 edges need to be very carefully filed and sanded to match the contours. As the sides of the superstructure slope inwards, the question of how to positively secure it ‘when at sea’ arose, and ultimately magnets came to the rescue. Two pieces of 10 x 10mm timber were cut to fit exactly inside the front and back of it, with the front part having its edges sloped to match. Both of these had to have a camber filed on their bottom edges to fit snugly over the deck, before they were glued to it, checking carefully their positions. Once dried, these hold the superstructure in position horizontally, but obviously it can easily be removed vertically (please see Photo 15 again). Rare Earth or Neodymium magnets are very powerful, but small and readily

available via the Internet at around £2 for ten of them. These magnets were glued to the top of the superstructure supports, one at the front and two at the rear. Three matching magnets were glued to pieces of 10 x 10mm stripwood and placed on top of the magnets, i.e., magnet to magnet. The position from the deck was measured and transferred to the inside of the superstructure. Then, these were removed from the ‘deck’ magnets and glued to the marked positions inside the superstructure and the result? Once placed in position, the superstructure is held very firmly by the magnets with Photo 16 showing those at the rear of the GRP moulding, the front end being similar, but with just one centrally. Attention could now focus on the detail work for this S.T. Kerne model.

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DETAIL WORK The cabin, companion ways, winches, funnel and mast etc. are mini-projects in themselves, and in most cases can be completed individually virtually at any stage of construction as the fancy takes you. The wheelhouse though is a major difference between S.T. Kerne and H.M.T. Terrier, the latter having the open version. For the closed version, the instructions suggest that the window and door openings may be cut before, or after, the wheelhouse is built, but I would recommend definitely cutting them out first, as the structure is in the end still quite delicate. It is made from thin printed plywood and can be easily cut with a strong Stanley craft knife, Photo 17 being of the wheelhouse, and the companionways and toilet. Digging the blade’s point in at the corners before making a straight cut, ensures a nice clean 90 degrees corner, and helps prevent an over-run of the cut. Check the openings for fit

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22 with the window frames, and notably the five front ones butt up to one another. The wheelhouse is reinforced by 2 x 2mm timber glued to two side edges and when set these are glued to the other two sides to complete the box-like structure. The floor is then glued in and the top reinforced with a couple of pieces of 1.5mm plywood, but the bottom of this has to be shaped to fit the curvature of the top. Fixing these various sub-units can be done in a number of ways, but using small hidden crosshead screws internally is as good as any, Photo 18. All the wooden, or separate box sections of the superstructure and skylights etc. were completed in much the same way, Photo 19 being of the aft companionway and its locating base on the deck. You could have an opening here and an On/Off switch beneath it if you wish, but the choice is yours. The main lower superstructure GRP section has a fair amount of detail to be added to it, Photo 20. There is a tubular framework above the engine room which looked as if it would be a bit tricky bending the aluminium tube to match, but this turned out to be trouble free due to the use of this material. If you follow

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Adam Slater’s detailed instructions, you should have no trouble. It is just a matter then of working through the instructions and the hatches and skylights were next. The holes for glazing were pre-drilled but they have to be painted before that can be done, Photo 21. The cowl vents are rather nice resin castings, but need a hole drilled vertically though their bases so they can really let air in (and out) and therefore look rather more realistic. The forward hand windlass is a straightforward assembly job, but the tow hook is a bit fiddly and it is best to paint this before fixing in place using discreet locating pins, to make it more secure. The funnel needs some care, but is simple enough. The metal ring bands are quite delicate so care is needed when filing their insides to fit snugly over the funnel. I broke the lagged steam pipe whilst trying to bend it, but fortunately had some spare aluminium tube, so made it from that. The method of fixing the funnel to the deck is to cut a disc of 5mm thick MDF to match the inside diameter of the main vertical tube, drill a hole in its centre and a bolt passes through into the top of the GRP superstructure moulding. It can then be easily

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25 fitted or removed and painted separately off the model. There is an access hatch at the stern over the rudder post and its linkage. This is simple enough to make, but care is need to get a good fit to match the aft deck and a cardboard template is handy. The Samson posts, Photo 22, are from styrene tube, suitably enhanced and the single mast in front of the superstructure needs to be tapered from dowel. You either use a small lathe or power drill, but be careful with the latter, and it sits in a tabernacle as in Photo 23.

PAINTING Halfords car spray aerosols have been used for the majority of painting, with Grey, Red and White primers along with a plain Satin Black

and Rover Primrose Yellow which seems to match the Humbrol colour recommended in the instructions for the lower part of the main superstructure. Once the colour coats had passed ‘quality control’, a couple of coats of satin varnish were applied using an airbrush, although Halfords offer something similar, also in an aerosol. As with all paints, test their compatibility on a test card before committing to your model. Measurements for the waterline are given in the instructions which initially seemed a bit odd, but when looking at the photos of S.T. Kerne on the Internet, yes it does (did?) have a slightly weird demarcation between the red bottom and black hull sides. It seemed a bit strange to have a waterline that had three different levels and angles, although other pictures seemed to show a straight line. After

discussing this with our Editor, I decided to go for a straight waterline which looks fine and avoids arguments at the pondside, and we don’t want those do we? There is a fair amount of masking necessary and I would suggest using a good quality tape such as that from Tamiya. This has proved 100% perfect in use over the years and although not cheap, a trouble-free life is what we all want.

FINAL ASSEMBLY The small portholes in the skylights were glazed using Deluxe Materials Glue & Glaze which is like a thin white glue that forms a film in the hole, but then dries transparent. Before gluing the hatches in place, please carefully double-check their positions. The rest of the fittings went together and into place, with pins and matching holes strengthening their locations. The rear main deck grating cover and wheelhouse roof have also been fitted using small magnets, the latter so that its interior can easily be revealed, Photos 24, 25 and 26 being of the completed model.

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KIT REVIEW

27 AND ON THE WATER? With it all assembled, 1.4kg of ballast was still needed, one large piece in the stern section, one at the bows and two amidships just forward of the motor. The motor chosen, is quite powerful, but was ‘turned-down’ to 40% of its maximum rpm. The sea trials were at the Brentwood MBC’s Mountnessing Pond in late-July and went really well, although perhaps a little more ballast could be

safely accommodated, Photos 27 and 28. Performance was fine and the turning circle perfectly acceptable. Going astern though on a single screw model is always problematic and no change from that with this S.T. Kerne. In spite of the low freeboard and open freeing ports, it is a surprisingly dry model, no water getting on to the deck, or inside for that matter, even when performing manoeuvres and going at speeds that were totally unrealistic (thank you Paul!)

CONCLUSION In summary, this is a decent kit for a nice sized model that performs well. There is plenty of scope for ‘weathering’ and enhanced detail if the builder so desires, and it is good value for money. Well done Mountfleet Models, for bringing to market a new British model boat kit, something that does not happen so often nowadays. Please see their advertisements for the current price and the rest of their extensive range. Enjoy your hobby John Elliott

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SPECIAL FEATURE

HMS RENOWN 1897 TO 1913

Andrew Dalton describes his award winning 1:96 scale battleship model he HMS Renown story started in December 1994 when after completing a model of the Dutch salvage tug Typhoon, I was looking around for the next building project. At the local model show I met Geoff Dixon with his marvellous model of HMS Canopus fitted with steam power and firing guns. The following club meeting was spent studying R. A. Burt’s book ‘British Battleships 1889 to 1904’ for a suitable subject and the result was HMS Renown, a choice based almost entirely on the aesthetic appeal of that warship. At this stage the idea was simply to build a working model that could be sailed with HMS Canopus, thinking the build would take about three years and a Gold Medal at the Model Engineer Exhibition simply not entering the equation. Twenty one years later (to the month), the model was completed in 2015, but much had changed in the interim.

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HMS RENOWN This was a second class battleship, built between the Royal Sovereign and Majestic Classes at the end of the 19th Century. Internally she introduced the sloped armoured deck and externally, 6 inch guns mounted in casements (armoured boxes) and the enclosed 12pdr battery on the upper deck. Other features made her appearance resemble the smaller Majestic Class rather than the slightly enlarged Centurion Class she actually was. HMS Renown took four and a half years to complete, that being quite lengthy for the time, and she was commissioned on the 8th June 1897. She served as the flagship of the Spithead Review for Queen Victoria’s Diamond Jubilee, then as Jackie Fisher’s flagship on the North American, West Indies and Mediterranean Stations. She was later used as a Royal Yacht for both the Duke of Connaught’s and the Prince of Wales’ tours of India. After the high life (!), she was converted to a stoker’s training ship in 1909, and finally sold for breaking-up in April 1914. As with all warships, during her service HMS Renown was modified, particularly

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regarding the ventilator arrangement and the bridge structures. The most striking changes concerned the paint scheme which started as the classic black, white and buff of the Victorian period, then white and buff for her Royal duties before finally ending her career in 1913 in the standard overall grey. Given the desire to build a battleship in the classic Victorian paint scheme, and the increasing uncertainty regarding the modifications as time progressed from her completion date, it was decided to model her prior to her refit at Malta in February 1900. This meant the large unsightly ventilator cowls either side of the barbettes could be removed, and the complications of the

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additional signalling bridge could be avoided.

RESEARCH STARTS………. The first thought was to build from the drawings in R.A. Burt’s book, as Geoff Dixon had done for his HMS Canopus. However, having made enquires at the National Maritime Museum (NMM), the decision was made to purchase a set of the Admiralty plans and some photographs. Further photographs came from the Imperial War Museum (IWM) and please remember that the early 1990’s when this project commenced were pre-Internet days as we know them now. The NMM plans gave enough information

This article is dedicated to the Old Guard of the Southend Model Boat Club who provided so much advice, encouragement and inspiration at the start of the project, but who sadly died before its completion.

to start the hull, and throughout the project the search continued for more information about the warship. Whilst the plans and photographs were specific to HMS Renown, the style of building and many of the fittings and details were common to other ships of the period and reference books provided a range of information, photographs and drawings of ships of the period. Visits to museums revealed further information, such as the model of HMS Russell at the Imperial War Museum (IWM), and the full-size original ship’s boats at the Portsmouth and Chatham Maritime Museums. The Internet then came along and added to the stock of photographs, both of HMS

Renown and her contemporaries. It also came up with a few gems, such as photographs of a period model of HMS Renown in silver plate, which whilst a little stylised, showed a number of details that I was unsure about and so clarified those parts of the project. I relied on the NMM plans to get the basics right, including some of the rigging details, then the photos to fill in the blanks, but never had a complete set of 1:96 scale fully detailed working plans. What I did do however, was to produce several isometric style drawings of specific parts of the ship to clarify the layout, and kept several notebooks where details were sketched and dimensions worked out. Notably, the masts and yards were drawn to scale.

There were, and remain, some items that I simply don’t know for sure what they looked like. I know something is there, just to make sense of other surrounding fittings, and in these cases engineering judgement was used to make something that would work in practice and thus not look out of place. A great modern technological aid was the digital scanner device. The photographs from both the IWM and NMM were of very good quality, being produced from large format glass plate negatives. By scanning these photographs and digitalising them, one could zoom in to dig out the detail, without needing a magnifying glass and a spotlight, or damaging the expensive ex-NMM prints

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SPECIAL FEATURE THE HULL Given the shape of the hull, various building techniques were available, and after much thought it was decided to produce the hull from glass reinforced plastic (GRP). This offers a number of advantages over other materials and construction methods for a working model, the principal one being that it produces a rigid single piece watertight hull, free from internal frames and structure. The downside though is the rather long-winded process for making a single hull. This was my first experience of using GRP on such a scale, hence some of the methods used may be considered less than optimal by those readers with more experience in such matters. The basic process is to build a pattern; from the pattern make the mould and then lay-up the actual hull inside the mould. Based on an article in Radio Control Boat Modeller (May & June 1989), the pattern was produced inverted, using a plywood frame filled with newspaper which was then covered in plaster. The advantage of this method was that plaster is cheap and can easily be shaped or added to if too much is removed in the shaping process. The downside is the weight, its low strength and the sheer volume of dust generated during the shaping process. Timber loft plates were produced at each frame and used to check the shape against the plan. Once the shape was correct, paint was applied to seal the surface and

RIGHT The hull pattern nearing completion.

BELOW The hull pattern after the mould was removed.

gradually build a good surface finish. The full-size hull had a noticeable step where the copper sheathing was fitted and this was built into the pattern. Looking at the photographs it was noticeable how little the hull’s steel plating showed, especially when compared to later warships. It was decided to add a limited amount of plating to the pattern by adding strakes of plastic parcel tape, which was used quite a bit for the moulds and other parts where a smooth sealed surface was needed and is something to which most glues, resins and fillers don’t adhere. Once happy with the shape and surface finish of the pattern, a centreline board was added along the keel and around the stem and stern to form the mating surface between the two halves of the mould. A horizontal lip was also added above the upper deck line to add to the rigidity of the mould and provide a rough trim line. Both the lip and centreline boards were made rather crudely from cardboard covered with plastic parcel tape. One half of the pattern was given a coat of release agent and the lay-up process started with the gel coat, followed by glass tissue, and then cloth and mat. As a reasonable quantity of materials had been purchased, the mould was up to 5mm thick in places. With the first half of the mould cured, the centreline board was removed, more release agent added and the second half laid up. Once that was cured, the centreline mating flange was trimmed and holes drilled along it to allow the mould’s two halves to be bolted together. You must do this before any mould is released from its

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ABOVE The hull once free of the mould after roughly trimming to the deck level (this picture was taken some years ago on an inferior camera – sorry). LEFT The hull mould. Please note the bolts in the centreline joining flange and the horizontal deck-line flange for rigidity. LEFT The plasticard mould for the starboard anchor bed.

pattern, otherwise it may prove impossible align the two halves perfectly after separation. Once done and the GRP fully cured, it was time to cross the fingers and remove the pattern. Releasing the mould took a bit of effort but was successful, albeit at the expense of the pattern, which had to be then discarded as it was damaged in the process. The mould was duly cleaned, more release agent added, and then the hull lay-up was started with a coat of black gelcoat. This was later found to be a mistake, since it made marking out details on the GRP hull difficult. In future, if you get the urge to go down this route of hull production, I would recommend either white or grey to resolve that problem. The gel coat was followed by cloth and mat. The hull lay-up was again rather on the thick side when compared to a commercial hull, but its strength and rigidity were well worth it, plus being a battleship, by definition the model would be quite weighty anyway, when complete. The hull was left to cure fully before removal from the mould. Some people will say all fibreglass hulls warp coming out of the mould, or require to be later ‘pulled in’ to shape with the deck. All I can say is, remove it only when fully cured and not still ‘green’ (semi-flexible and easy to cut) and it should then keep the correct shape. After all, modern aircraft are built from reinforced epoxy resins

ABOVE Fittings being added to the hull. The copper sheathing below the waterline is nothing more than copper electrical tape.

and they come out of the mould the right shape – we hope! As with releasing a mould from the pattern, removal of a hull (and certainly the first made) from a mould is not for the faint-hearted. The hull gradually released, finally springing free with a noticeable ‘bang’. Once trimmed and cleaned, the hull was attached to its building stand which was simply an MDF base with timber and P38 Isopon filler supports either end of where the bilge keels were going to be located. By attaching the hull to the stand, it is possible to move the whole thing about, but always maintain a datum surface. The use of P38 filler to produce the stand supports probably needs a bit of explanation as it was a trick picked up from a professional model maker. What you are trying to do is produce a crutch or mounting surface that exactly matches the hull, and by ‘squishing’ P38 between the hull and a roughly shaped timber support, that matching surface can be made quickly and accurately. The trick though, is to cover the hull surface with plastic panel tape first. Once the P38 is cured the stand can simply be knocked off the hull, and the tape removed. To re-fix the hull to the stand, PVA glue was used as it is strong enough to hold the hull to the stand and its P38 shaped supports, but not too strong to damage the hull when the time comes to remove it from this building stand. Once fixed to the stand, the vertical reference frame stations were marked out on the hull and the hull trimmed to the correct deck height. This was the point at which any errors in the hull lines become apparent, and

errors there definitely were! First, the original hull was copper bottomed, which on a steel hull required a layer of timber between the hull and the copper sheathing, which produced a noticeable step that had been included in the pattern and therefore the moulding. The problem was, that the step simply wasn’t crisp enough and required filler and reworking to tidy it all. This was the first time the rigidity of the hull was really appreciated, as it was possible to work on it without the whole thing noticeably flexing. The second problem was the amidships plating strake that had been added to the pattern using plastic parcel tape also looked poor, and it had to be removed, but the most serious problem was with the stern lines, as these were correct on the port side but too ‘wasted’ on the starboard side. In spite of the use of loft plates, much checking and rechecking, I just hadn’t seen it on the master pattern. More filler and much sanding later, the hull was symmetrical (well almost!). The rigidity of the hull had saved the day as it could be worked on without flexing, something that would have made such reworking problematic, if not impossible. To simplify the hull mould, the anchor beds had been omitted, and these were now moulded separately from GRP directly on to a plasticard male pattern and then fitted to the hull. The production of the patterns taxed the brain somewhat, simply because you have to make a mirror image of what you want and in spite of first sketching what was needed, it still took several attempts to get it right. As work progressed across the model as a whole, more detail was added to the hull and the bottom was copper plated.

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SPECIAL FEATURE RUNNING GEAR Once happy with the hull, the running gear was installed. HMS Renown had a conventional twin shaft arrangement with A-frames and tapered shaft casings that covered the propeller tubes. A steam plant was considered for this model, but in the end the practicalities of electric power won the day and two 12 volt motors with electronic speed controllers drive the four-bladed scale brass propellers. The rudder is a bit more interesting as it hinges off the vertical deadwood, rather than being the modern conventional balanced rudder design. The rudder is made from three components; the rudder itself, the rudder post (fixed to the deadwood) and the rudder shaft, which locates by a square section spigot into the top of the rudder. This enables the rudder to be slotted on to the rudder post and then held in location by the shaft. Given the vulnerability of the rudder to damage, this means the rudder could be removed, and only refitted when everything else was complete.

The rudder, propshafts and propellers have been fitted, and please note how the rudder is hung.

THE DECK From early on, the plan was to plank the deck, but the problem was how to do it effectively. After much experimenting, the following method was used although somewhat later, I discovered that the late Brian King had used a similar technique for his Victorian battleship models. The plank lengths were cut from commercial pre-cut 2mm square section strip. These were glued and clamped in place on the false deck using PVA glue with a bit of black acrylic paint added, although in hindsight a dark grey would perhaps have been better. The planking started at the centreline, gradually moving outboard with the pace of work being dictated by the number of planks that could be safely clamped without any of them ‘escaping’. At this stage though, the deck looked as if it was covered in tar, but once the planking was all

ABOVE An example of the planking method, although this is a piece of the superstructure that didn’t make the grade and was later rejected – the joys of scratch building. laid and the glue fully hardened, the excess could be cut away using a scalpel, the deck duly sanded smooth, and then finished with several coats of clear matt varnish.

SUPERSTRUCTURE HMS Renown’s pre-Dreadnought layout concentrated the superstructure in the centre of the ship and it comprised the upper deck gun batteries, the bridge structures, boat deck and masts. For modelling purposes, this superstructure unit makes for a single removable item and helpfully, all the mast stays except for two, attach to it. There is therefore little that must be removed/disconnected before it can be lifted off the hull. The basic structure is of plasticard (styrene) with the timber decks planked as per main deck. This main deck was also modelled so the amidships ladders could be seen to descend into the ship’s hull. All the detail makes the task of lifting-off the superstructure somewhat difficult, slightly hampered by it being recessed into the deck. To avoid having to do the ‘lift’ on the masts, brass nuts are embedded in each of the 6 inch upper deck casements such that threaded rods screw in and press on to pads fixed to the deck beneath, thus lifting the superstructure clear of the deck as they are screwed downwards. Once the superstructure is high enough, one can get one’s fingers beneath the superstructure to lift it clear and removable deck cleats help disguise the access holes for the threaded rods.

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ABOVE The basic removable main superstructure unit is nearing completion. ABOVE RIGHT With the upper deck planked, the superstructure is being built. RIGHT The superstructure is supported by the threaded rods (painted red in this picture) that screw into the casements and raise it just enough to get one’s fingers under it so it can be easily, and safely, lifted clear.

Model Boats Winter issue www.modelboats.co.uk

I should add that the deck, and the false deck it’s built on, is not flat as it is cambered and also includes the fore and aft sheer. To check the camber, a brass template was made shaped to the deck curve basing the amount of camber on the NMM plans. This template could be run up and down the deck checking the camber and it also was used to set the camber on the various bridge and superstructure units. To access the internals, the central superstructure block is removable and the fore and aft barbettes slide out and a further hatch is fitted over the rudder tiller. To avoid unsightly gaps, the barbettes, superstructure and the major fittings within the superstructure are all recessed into the planked deck. The edges of the hatches were aligned with the plank joints and deck fittings wherever possible to help disguise those aforementioned joints.

MATERIALS, GUNS AND BOATS? I was once told to build each bit as if it was a model in its own right and that a few good bits will draw the critical eye away from the rest. The other basic rule was (and is) if you don’t like it then try again, and there is a large box of bits that didn’t survive my critical next day viewing, but first though, let’s discuss the tools used. The big game changer, at least for me, has been a Peatol lathe with the compound slide and milling post, purchased ostensibly for making the gun barrels and then used for a multitude of bits, the only other power tool being a 12 volt Minicraft drill. The main hand tool was the trusty scalpel and the usual array of files, tweezers, pliers, etc., a soldering iron and an airbrush for painting. The materials used for the fittings as a whole have been a mix of timber; brass sections, sheet and wire; plasticard (styrene) in sheet and strip; glass (microscope slide cover slips) used for wheel and deck house glazing; model railway track (used for the stern walk frame); aluminium bar stock; lithographic sheet; copper tape; steel guitar strings (upper deck handrails); GRP; P38 filler and other sundry materials.

During the project, some white metal parts were cast for the first time and TurboCAD was used to produce artwork for the etched-brass sheets. I must credit fellow club member George Turner for producing some white metal fittings for me from patterns I produced and providing some etched brass parts left over from his build of HMS Kent. A few bits were purchased; the stanchions are J. R. Haynes items and model railway suppliers provided N-gauge brass chain 40 links per inch, carriage door handles, boiler handrail brackets and small brass washers.

10 INCH GUNS The main armament of the ship were the two pairs of 10 inch guns mounted in barbettes fore and aft, covered by an open backed gun shield, something that was a stepping stone towards what we think of today as a ‘full’ turret. The open back was a double-edged sword in that it meant the guns and their mountings had to be modelled which was a nice feature, but that created another set of problems. As mentioned, the tapered gun barrels provided the excuse to buy the Peatol lathe and the milling attachment helped produce the breech carrier fittings. The

gun muzzles and breeches were polished, varnished and masked prior to spraying the barrels. The barbettes and their turntables are plasticard with brass rod and small brass washers being used to build-up the inner workings of the mountings. The shield itself was a headache with a couple of the early versions getting scrapped as they failed the next day viewing test. The eventual production method was to build a pattern from balsawood, then a GRP mould, the lay-up being done in two phases. The first was to lay-up the front of the shield where the armour was thickest and once cured it was removed and trimmed to where the armoured front ended. It was then placed back in the mould and the roof and sides laid up using a much thinner cloth. Once removed and trimmed, the gun ports were cut and the armoured collars protecting them added using P38 filler. The roof and sides were then strengthened by brass T-section frames and the sighting hoods added which were machined from aluminium stock with brass domed tops. The aft gun shield includes a support for the awning pole that runs the length of the quarter deck, produced from brass rod. It also carries the scroll; ‘England expects…’, that was etched in brass.

SHIP’S BOATS

ABOVE The 10 inch guns, their shields and turntables took some time to get just right. (Photo courtesy of Colin Bishop) ABOVE The master for the 10 inch gun shields.

These were a major feature of these warships and by convention, the pulling boats are modelled open, rather than canvas covered as they would be at sea. Not only are there many boats, but most are of differing types. For example, there are four gigs, but these are all of differing lengths (24. 28, 30 and 32 feet). The variety of the boats meant that a number of building methods were employed, although much of this was due to my experimenting with differing construction methods rather than having a definitive idea of the best means to build each boat. The largest of the boats carried were the two 56 feet long steam pinnaces. These are very different to the often modelled ‘Renown’ steam picket boat which belonged to the

RIGHT The 56ft steam pinnace with its twin funnels.

ABOVE The 40ft steam launch.

www.modelboats.co.uk www.mode elboats.co.uk Model Boats Winter issue

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SPECIAL FEATURE later battlecruiser of the same name. These earlier pinnaces had a shallower draught and generally finer lines and many, including those on HMS Renown, also had a twin funnel arrangement. The first pinnace was built with a GRP hull and plasticard deckhouses, and the second was a resin casting from the first. The decks for both were made as per the upper deck, but using 1mm square timber. The scuttles, steering wheel, propellerr and handrail stanchions are all of etched-brass. brass. The 40 feet long steam launch wass made differently from the steam pinnaces by producing a pattern from P38 filler, then en using this and heat forming the port and starboard arboard hull sides from plasticard under the domestic omestic cooker grill. The sides were trimmed and mated to the keel, and the fittingss are very much as for the pinnaces. One trick with etched brass is not onlyy to produce the part, but also produce e an assembly tool. The propeller blades are etched brass ass with the blades laid out around a circular ular space for the hub, which was a thin brass tube. The blades could be soldered to the hub whilst being held in place by the brass fret, then cut free and cleaned, this being much easier than trying to hold each individual blade in place once separated from the carrier fret. The hulls of the 42ft sailing launch and 36ft sailing pinnace were produced in the same way as the 40ft launch with the ribs and thwarts from plasticard and the gratings from etched brass. The big thing with open boats is actually all the stuff that then goes inside them. Oars, masts, yards, rudders and sail bags all have to be made and piled inside

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ABOVE The 40ft steam launch in position.

BELOW Producing the 36ft sailing pinnace from plasticard (please see main text for more information).

and for all the boats, a total of 110 oars were needed of various lengths. W. E. May’s book, ‘The Boats of Men of War’, is a must-have if you want to know the numbers and lengths of the oars, together with the lengths and diameter of masts and yards for all the variations in ship’s boats. The gigs and whaler were made in a similar fashion to the sailing launch with etched brass for the gratings, stern sheets and thwarts. For the cutters, as they were all the same size, I reverted to the use of GRP for their hulls, but for all the rowing boats, the problem was how to simulate the clinker overlapping planking. I ended up using gummed brown paper tape, cut into strips

Model Boats Winter issue www.modelboats.co.uk

ABOVE The completed 36ft sailing pinnace was normally stowed inside the 42ft launch. which when laid-up, overlapped and gave the required planked effect. However, one boat was made with a canvas cover and that was the 16ft dinghy and this cover is from plasticard with a bit of filler. The lower edge of the cover has a length of cotton glued on, that loops down to the shackles on the boat crutches, to give a tied-down appearance. Also, to try to create the appearance of folds and creases, some shadows were painted on to the cover.

ABOVE The large cowl pattern, the moulds and half a cowl. The pattern might look a bit rough, but it did the job.

ABOVE AND BELOW The punch and die set for the small and medium ventilator cowls. ABOVE The Admiral’s Stern Walk.

COWL VENTS AND STERN WALK HMS Renown was equipped with six large ventilator cowls and numerous smaller ones. The large cowls were made from a thin layer of tissue and GRP moulded in two halves and then joined. The advantage of this method is the wall thickness is still thin and the internal profile matches the external, avoiding the step you can get when the cowl bowl is fixed

to the supporting tube. A brass ring with cross braces was then glued to the front face and handrails complete the cowls. The small cowls were made from sheet brass, pressed into the bowl shape then soldered to a brass tube. For these small cowls, the internal/external profile differences were acceptable. This process requires a male punch and a female die, and requires the cowl material to be annealed between each stage in the pressing, this process being described in detail in the late Brian King’s book, ‘Advanced Ship Modelling’.

Projecting from the stern, the Admiral’s Stern Walk was always seen as a vulnerable item on a working model and hence its construction is robust. The frame supporting the deck of the stern walk is made from model railway track bent to shape and soldered to the support brackets, again made from filed and soldered railway track. These brackets have spigots that project into the hull, thus giving a very rigid structure. Its decking is an etched brass grating and the handrail is soldered brass wire with a mahogany top, and the awning is of plasticard suitably painted and sitting on a soldered brass framework.

www.modelboats.co.uk Model Boats Winter issue

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SPECIAL FEATURE

ABOVE The top fittings of the lower mast stays. As you can see, there is more to these than just simply tying a knot in a length of fine cord. LEFT The bottom fittings of the lower mast stays.

RIGGING No matter how you look at it, rigging spells trouble and something I wasn’t really looking forward to. Many reference books seem to gloss over the subject, often saying this topic is ‘well-detailed elsewhere’! The basic problem is the rig of these ships is not as per a period model, e.g. Nelson’s HMS Victory, nor is it the

21st Century minimalist style, hence most articles on the subject are unhelpful so the net result was that it was all rather made up as the work progressed. The lower mast stays were perhaps the most challenging items in terms of dexterity and patience, as the method used in miniature was too much like the real thing for comfort. The original comprised an eye bolt fixed to the mast and a shackle connecting the wire stay to the eyebolt. An eye was formed at the end of the wire stay with a thimble to prevent the eye becoming damaged by the shackle. If you look at photographs of ships of this period, you will realise just how big these eyes actually

OTHER SMALL PARTS - EXAMPLES The searchlights, which you can see in some of the pictures, have a turned brass base, an etched brass cradle, a brass tube barrel with an inset glass front fixed to an inner brass tube and a polished lithographic sheet mirror backed with P38 to smooth the rear of the searchlight. A bit of copper tape added to the top of the barrel, an etched brass wheel and a plasticard block complete these searchlights. The glass front was made by using cyanoacrylate (superglue) to fix a microscope slide cover slip to the inner brass tube, and then gently grinding the glass back to the edge of the tube using a diamond cutting disc in the Minicraft drill chuck. This may seem simple in theory, but get the angle wrong and the glass simply comes away from the tube, or it shatters and one has to start again, something I can confirm…… There is not enough space here to describe everything, but examples of other parts are the Maxim guns, binnacles and etched brass ladders just to name three. In truth, the detail work as a whole took a great deal of time with much of it just thinking about how to make an item, and then working out the sizes, and quite often it was not ‘alright’ first time around, but eventually the work was finished and it was time for the next phase of the project.

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ABOVE An etched brass accommodation ladder, designed using TurboCAD.

ABOVE The compass binnacle and a Maxim gun on the aft bridge.

Model Boats Winter issue www.modelboats.co.uk

were. At the deck end, there is an eye fitting, a shackle then a slip and turnbuckle, then another shackle attaching to the bottom end of the wire stay, and please see the Manual of Seamanship Volume One 1908 and HMS Dreadnought, Anatomy of the Ship for confirmation of all this. So to start, the eye bolts formed from brass wire were fixed to the mast and superstructure. Then off-model, the stays were assembled and these are 0.5mm rigging thread, soaked and stretched to remove any kinks. The bottom eye was formed complete with a brass strip for the thimble. Fine copper wire was used to tie the rigging thread together making the eye and then everything was glued together. Once dry, the thread and wire could be trimmed. The shackles and slips are of etched brass and the turnbuckle was made from fine stainless steel tube. Each shackle is of etched brass bent into a U-shape; brass wire was then threaded through and glued in position to make the locking pin. With the bottom of the stay attached to the slip and turnbuckle, it was then attached to the deck with a shackle, but not glued at this stage in case it had to come off again. The top shackle was fixed to the mast eye bolt, the thimble threaded through and then the stay threaded over that. Fine wire loosely tied the eye together and by gently pulling the loose end of the stay, the stay was tensioned and the wire loop slipped closer to the eye. When everything was good, it was glued and the ends trimmed. So that in a nutshell is how to do one of them, but believe me there are many more in the rigging process, which in truth all took some considerable time.

ABOVE HMS Renown on the water.

ON THE WATER AND CONCLUSION HMS Renown is just small enough to fit into the bath, so once complete and ready to ballast, that’s where we went. The painted waterline follows the sheer of the hull and the sheathing line and so is not parallel to the actual waterline, and to achieve the correct fore and aft trim, the draught markings corresponding to the full load condition were used. A spirit level was used to set the lateral trim. The big problem was of course that the ballast could only be added with the superstructure removed, and this is not an easy lift from a floating hull as you will have gathered earlier in this missive. To add to the problems, access to the wing ballast was only possible with the batteries removed, for which 100% of the blame must attach to the builder……. Moving this model of HMS Renown with all the projecting detail was always going to be difficult, so separate boxes for the hull and superstructure were built before the model could even leave the house. Launching and recovering the model was something that could go horribly wrong, so a pair of C- frames were made from aluminium square section tube, held apart horizontally by threaded rods, a device that could be quickly bolted together at the pondside. Notably, the top rod is inside the round tube that acts as the handle. The

beauty of this frame is that one can slide it down the side of the pond to keep every steady, knowing the model and its attendant detail is safe, the only risky bit being the period between allowing the model to float off the frame, getting the frame out of the water and grabbing the transmitter. The recovery process is the same, but in reverse. The first sailing session was one of tension

coupled with relief, as it all worked as planned. The next challenge is now to get together with Geoff Dixon and his HMS Canopus and finally do what I set out to do all those years ago. (Editor’s note: HMS Renown was deservedly awarded a Gold Medal at the 2016 Model Engineer Exhibition.)

RIGHT At the pondside. The bottom of the transport box doubles as the stand.

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SPECIAL FEATURE

A Photoshop image of the completed Type 209 in an undersea setting.

HDW TYPE 209 John Parker shows that it is practical to scratch build a static diving model hat marine modeller worth his salt hasn’t dreamed of building a model submarine at some stage? To savour that magic moment when his craft slips the two-dimensional confines of travel on the surface of the water and asserts its unique ability to move freely below the surface, taking all that expensive radio gear and equipment with it, not to mention hundreds of hours of your spare time? And that even better moment, an apprehensive minute or so later, when it answers the call to re-surface? Many of us have dreamed about it, but few have been able to turn that dream into reality. For the sad truth is that many, perhaps most, scratch-built model submarine projects never see completion. The reasons are varied, but can generally be categorised as under-estimating the scope of the project in terms of the knowledge required, modelling ability and cost or time, as a model submarine can be quite demanding on all of these. The answer may be to buy one of the few complete kits available, or a set of hull mouldings and a WTC (water-tight cylinder) containing all the control and propulsion gear. That should result in much less knowledge, ability and time required, but the cost is likely to be considerably more. For the dedicated scratch-builder, help with estimating the likely scope of a model

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submarine project (I am assuming one with a ballast system, to enable static diving) would be useful, and that is what I have attempted here. There is a noticeable shortage of such articles in print, most having moved online to serve the committed model submariner, where the beginner is likely to feel lost. This article goes into the various design factors unique to model submarines, and follows them up with an example in the form of my own scratch-built HDW Type 209 modern German U-Boat. In doing so, I hope it will lead to more model submarine projects being successfully undertaken, their builders more fully aware of the challenges that they face and be better prepared to deal with them. If on the other hand, reading it makes you realise that a model submarine just isn’t for you, then that would be also be a valid outcome, though a rather disappointing one!

CHOICE OF SUBJECT This is a very personal thing. To many, a submarine can only mean a World War Two submarine with its sharp nose, open conning tower and deck detail, the star of many a movie and typified by the Type VII German U-Boat. Others prefer the cleaner lines and efficiency of a modern submarine, but it is important to realise that your choice of type will to a large degree determine the

Model Boats Winter issue www.modelboats.co.uk

characteristics of your model. What we tend to lump together and refer to as submarines, can be more accurately categorised as either submersibles or submarines. The usual WW2 submarine and almost all types up to around the end of that conflict were submersibles. They spent nearly all their time on the surface and only submerged for short periods to attack or escape detection, and consequently their shape was optimised for surface travel, with a long, wave-cutting hull. Once submerged, this hull shape produced undesirable handling effects and the deck gun and open conning tower were the source of high drag, acceptable only because of the slow speeds achievable. The modern submarine, nuclear powered or otherwise, has a hull optimised for underwater travel with the minimum of drag, a near symmetrical nose and spindle stern usually with a single propeller. On the surface, where it aims to spend the minimum time possible, it handles badly and can only make a slow speed before tending to become unstable and wanting to self-dive. If you will be operating your model in a typical murky lake, a submersible may be the better choice of model. They make superb surface vessels with their destroyer-like hulls as there’s all the deck detail to take in and you can still demonstrate a dive realistically. On the other hand, if you have the use

REFERENCE AND SUPPLIER DATA

A Type 209 submarine of the South African Navy exercises with HMS Portland. (Photo courtesy of Ministry of Defence)

Books: Gabler & Ulricht, Submarine Design Bernard & Graefe Verlag, Bonne 2000. A good survey of submarine design and technologies by the designer of the Type 209. Bruggen, Norbert Model Submarine Technology, Traplet Publications Ltd. 1996. The bible of model submarine design. Burcher, Roy & Rydill Louis, Concepts in Submarine Design, Cambridge University Press, Cambridge UK, 1994. Text book of theory for students. Suppliers Alexander Engel KG http://engelmodellbau.eu Modell U-Boot Spezialitäten http://www.modelluboot.de Safety Store https://www.safetystore.com

SUBMARINE of a swimming pool and/or underwater performance is your goal, a true submarine will run rings around a submersible when under the water. A very small number of submarines fall into what might be considered a third class that attempted to combine the advantages of a submersible and a true submarine; they have long pointed hulls for surface performance but are streamlined as much as possible with no deck gun and a sail that encloses most of the appendages. Examples are the German Type XXVI U-Boat (which never saw service) and the British Porpoise/Oberon Class.

CONSTRUCTION MATERIAL Whilst a model submarine CAN be built from almost any material, in practice the choice is more limited. Wood, the traditional modelling material, cannot be recommended, because it is very difficult to seal it properly. Even when laminated on both sides with glass cloth and fibreglass resin, a planked wooden hull for example, must have a split line or removable deck for access, and there will be holes that must be cut-out to let the water pass in and out of the free-flooding areas and so on, and these will all have the potential of exposing the end grain (it only takes a pinhole in the sealing), which will wick the water in like a sponge and make the model impossible to trim because its weight is forever changing. A very fine model submarine can be made in metal, especially from an easier to work,

ABOVE Montage of images showing construction of the plug and moulding of the hull. RIGHT Representative diagram of the three classes of underwater craft mentioned in the text. non-ferrous and non-rusting type such as aluminium, zinc or copper, but very few of us have the necessary skills to form compound shapes in metal and they are not easy to learn. On top of this, the radio control signal will be effectively shielded by the earthed metal hull, so the receiver antenna needs to be insulated and run externally; easy enough on a WW2 type submarine perhaps, but difficult on other types.

That really only leaves the various plastics and composites, and they are the materials of choice, being easy to work with and largely unaffected by immersion in water. Combined with moulded nose and tail cones, a PVC plumbing pipe can form the basis of an excellent hull for a modern submarine with a circular cross-section. More complex shapes

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SPECIAL FEATURE

Worked up drawing of the Type 209 from information supplied.

can be sculpted in foam and skinned with fibreglass, dissolving the foam out later and nd sanding the outside to the required finish. But for producing a hull that is lightweight, strong ong and of a fine finish, incorporating surface detail if required, there is alas no substitute e for the lengthy process of producing a plug, g, making a female mould from it, and then using it to make the final fibreglass hull mouldings. This makes a good club projectt if you can get three or four club members to agree on the type of submarine, as a number ber of hulls can be made for not much more than han the time and cost involved in making one. Vacuum formed hull components are possible, if you have the facilities, but these e tend to be too flimsy for the heavy weights of anything but a small submarine. Home 3D printers are, as yet, best confined to producing detail parts, though this technology logy is developing rapidly and 3D printing a model submarine hull (in sections) may soon become commonplace.

CHOICE OF SIZE A large submarine model may be very impressive, but it comes with serious handling and transportation problems. A 1:50 USS Nautilus nuclear submarine for example, is a not too unmanageable 1974mm long, but will weigh in the vicinity of 29 kilograms if of

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ABOVE Type 209 submarine. scale wind or wave action, and remain fully seaworthy in conditions that will see larger surface models returning to harbour. dry-hull construction (more on this later) and is still likely to be 18 to 20 kilograms if the lighter wet-hull construction is used. You may need a trolley to move it and a harness or other means to launch it, even with help, and is your car big enough? A ‘ski-hatch’ can be handy as it enables me to carry a 1.9 to 2.0 metre model submarine in my hatchback and still take passengers. However, fortunately there isn’t the same incentive to go big as there is with surface models. Even a small submarine is fully (or should be!) watertight and when sitting low in the water is not going to be troubled by out-of-

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DRY VERSUS WET HULL Many model submarines are now built on the wet-hull principle. A watertight cylinder (WTC), usually of acrylic (Perspex) or polycarbonate, 50 to 150mm diameter, contains all the working gear and sits in saddles within the hull, connected to the propeller(s) and hydrovanes via quick-release fittings and universal joints. The hull merely forms a representation of the submarine’s external shape with any extra buoyancy provided by foam blocks glued around the inside. The WTC, with a single or dual drive shafts, can

ABOVE The PR material gratefully received from Brazil.

be transferred from one model hull to another and may be purchased more or less complete, leaving the modeller to concentrate on making the hull. The dry-hull is built more like a real submarine. The hull itself forms the watertight housing (though there may be free-flooding areas at the ends or above the surface waterline) and is strongly built to withstand water pressure. All the equipment is built into it and accessed via hatches or a plugin tail. This type of model submarine will have a greater displacement and therefore weigh more, which might rule it out for the larger sizes. It makes better use of the space available in the submarine hull, but places more of a premium on good design and construction. Although a wet-hull model is lighter out of the water, in the water it is the same weight as a dry-hull model; the water surrounding the WTC drifts only slowly in and out of the drain holes and adds its weight (and inertia) to that of the model. This can result in the performance requirements of the propulsion system in terms of speed and battery duration, as well as the control forces needed, being under-estimated if based on the WTC alone.

BALLAST SYSTEM

ACCESSIBILITY

To operate statically, that is without the forces produced by motion, a model submarine needs to be able to take on and discharge ballast water at will. The amount it needs to take on depends on the style of submarine, varying from perhaps a few percent of the surfaced displacement for a research submarine, through ten or fifteen percent for a modern submarine to twenty percent or more for an older type. This is known as the reserve buoyancy and a little thought reveals that it needs to be equal to the above surface displacement of the model, since it is this displacement or buoyancy that needs to be overcome when the model dives. A submarine with a high reserve buoyancy sits subm higher on the surface and/or has more of highe its hull hu out of the water. In order to minimise the si size of ballast tank required, it is usual practice to make all the above-surface pract structure thin and free-flooding and thus struct minimise its displacement. minim Getting the water in and out can be done Ge by va various means, and they all come with advantages and disadvantages; modellers advan either swear by them or swear at them accordingly. The tank can be aspirated accor and ssimply flooded by opening an air valve at the top, but this type of tank cannot be emptied (blown) whilst underwater, a serious empt shortcoming which may cause the model shortc to be snagged in weed, etc. with no means of bre breaking free. The model must either plane up dynamically to periscope depth and snorkel air from the surface, or carry a supply of snorke compressed air or liquefied propellant to replace comp the ai air in the tank. The latter forms the basis of the so so-called Propel Gas Ballast System, long popular and especially so in America. popul With a closed system, the air is not allowed Wit to esc escape and is instead compressed in an enlarged tank or within the hull itself each enlarg time that t water is taken in. It is therefore always available for the tank to be blown alway even at depth, with the air expanding again to its original ori volume. To enable this, work must be done do when the water is taken on, usually by a p pump or with a piston tank, rather like a larg large mechanically driven syringe. In a variation of the system, an air pump is used variat to infl inflate a rubber bladder and thus control the volume vo of water in the ballast tank. The piston p tank has reached a high level of sophistication in the form of commercial units sophi made by Alexander Engel KG. Factors influencing the choice of ballast Fac system for a particular model include safety, syste cost, controllability, your workshop facilities and whether or not it will fit! Whatever the type of ballast system chosen, its size will tend to dominate the interior layout and it must be positioned so that the model is kept in trim as it dives. This means the centre of gravity of the ballast tank needs to be on a vertical line running through the centre of buoyancy of the above-surface structure of the model. If this can’t be estimated accurately at the design stages, a degree of fore-and-aft adjustability should be built-in.

Far more consideration needs to be given to the question of accessing the interior of the model submarine than with a surface model. Traditionally, it is done by means of a hatch or hatches, often of clear acrylic, positioned under the deck casing and clamping down on a rubber gasket with multiple screwed studs. However, removing and refitting the hatches is notoriously slow and they have to be thick to withstand the pressure. Another method, especially suited to modern submarines with circular cross sections, is to have a ‘plug in’ tail section that withdraws from the front hull with all the running gear attached. The seal is made by an O-ring and may be held in place by a machined bayonet fitting. A wet-hull submarine requires only a nonwaterproof joint for access to the WTC that is usually placed at the line of maximum diameter. The watertight seals on the WTC itself, and consist of O-rings fitted to the end caps. Full details for constructing a WTC may be found online, and I don’t intend to repeat them here. Polycarbonate is the preferred material for the WTC over acrylic, which can suffer from stress cracking if in the form of extruded tube.

HDW TYPE 209 My choice of subject, bearing in mind all the above, came down to the German HDW Type 209 submarine, specifically the 1400 version in service with the Brazilian Navy as the Tupi/Tikuna Class. In this version, the various bumps and excrescences of earlier versions were integrated under a straight deck casing and with the snorkeling exhausts exiting neatly from the trailing edge of the conning tower, it makes an attractive design to my eye. It did not have the complication of an X-tail and the drooping tail shape meant the propeller would be immersed deeper for more effective propulsion on the surface. I still hankered after a fully detailed WW2 era submarine, but that could wait until I had gained more experience and I would build this model as a dry-hull type. The Type 209 submarine is a product of the Howaldtswerke-Deutsche Werft (HDW) of Germany and was designed by Ingenieur Kontor Lübeck (IKL) in the late 1960’s, headed by Ulrich Gabler. A small conventional diesel-electric submarine, it was steadily developed from the original 209/1100 class of 1200 tons submerged displacement through four subsequent classes to the 50% larger 209/1500 of 1800 tons submerged displacement, proving remarkably successful on the export market, with over 60 units built. It is in fact the most numerous and successful submarine of the modern era. Powered by four MTU diesels totalling 5000 to 6100 shaft horsepower, it has an 11 knot maximum surface speed (range 11000 nautical miles at 10 knots) and a 22 knot maximum submerged speed (range 400 nautical miles at 4 knots). From it has been developed the Type 212 and Type 214 submarines with air independent

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SPECIAL FEATURE BELOW 3D CAD drawing of the submarine

ABOVE Initial calculation spreadsheet for a model submarine at different scales.

ABOVE Weight and buoyancy calculation spreadsheet.

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propulsion, with this and other new technologies capable of being retro-fitted to the Type 209. The Brazilian Navy commissioned its first Type 209 in 1989, the Tupi (S30), which was delivered from Germany. Subsequently the Arsenal de Marinha Shipyard in Rio de Janeiro (AMRJ) built the Tamoio (S31), Timbira (S32) and Tapajo (S33) which joined the fleet from 1994 to 1999. An improved Tupi class with 30% greater range was planned, but following budgetary cuts only one was built, the Tikuna (S34), commissioned in 2005. They are armed with eight bow tubes with swim-out discharge and carry eight reloads. Despite its popularity amongst the world’s navies, I could find little detailed information for the Type 209, and no detailed drawings at all when I began this project some years ago. On the off-chance, I wrote to a modelling organisation in Brazil and received a reply from a kindly gentleman who said the situation was most regrettable and he would write to his contact in the navy at once and demand some information! I suspect his request was met with less enthusiasm by the security conscious navy, but it did result in some nice PR material and eventually some drawings, of questionable accuracy as it turned out. I have since lost contact with this correspondent, but am indebted to him for his helpfulness and for the two small Brazilian flags he sent, with the request that they be displayed with the model, something I am glad to do.

ABOVE Test rig used to try out different ideas and components.

MODEL DESIGN The next move was to make use of my limited ability with spreadsheets to produce one that calculates the size and other characteristics of a model when built to a range of likely scales. I find this very useful not just for selecting a scale, but also for choosing a subject, as it is only a matter of inputting basic data relating to the full-size vessel and immediately the figures are there for comparison. In this case I chose a scale of 1:72, but then realised if I chose a scale of 1:70, I could use a standard 3.5 inch dia. acrylic tube for the main circular section of the hull. At a scale of 1:70, my model would be 957mm long, weigh some 4kg, and require a maximum ballast tank capacity of 450 to 500ml. This was a fortuitous choice of scale as it happens because much later I bought an Alexander Engel kit of the Type 212 submarine when it became available, and it was to the same 1:70 scale (see Model Boats, September 2013 issue). The two models of successive types of submarine from the same manufacturer and to the same scale, display well together and invite comparison of their features. Working up a CAD drawing from the limited information I had was next, supplemented by a few photos. As soon as I had the overall shape, this was transferred to blocks of Jelutong timber for construction of the plug, from which I would make the moulds for the hull. Carving the blocks was entirely by hand; I took consolation from the fact that the drooping tail meant my lack of a lathe

was of no consequence. I won’t go into detail on the mould making process here as the basic information is widely available elsewhere. Suffice to say that I ended up with two-piece split moulds for the tail and sail (conning tower) and control surfaces, and a one-piece mould for the deck casing, with an add-on piece for the lower nose. The resulting mouldings, in 2mm polyester fibreglass, united with a length of 3.5 inch (88.9mm) acrylic tubing formed the complete basic model. Later, I laid up a length of fibreglass tubing to replace the acrylic for better compatibility. The project was done in two stages: The making of the fibreglass hull components was done some years ago, but the making of the internal components and finishing of the model was only completed very recently, due to other priorities. After making the moulds, I came across better drawings of the Type 209 – isn’t this the way it always happens? They revealed my Type 209 should have more of a curve to the deck line and the sail should be positioned further forward; all rather annoying, but able to be rectified on the model when, and if, time permits. Meanwhile I had been working up the CAD drawing to show the planned internal workings, which I will later describe in turn. This will read as if all went according to plan and worked first time; in reality, there was plenty of trial and not a little error, but it will read like an obituary page if I describe all the dead ends. One of the photos shows a test rig made for

trying out the ballast system on the bench. This was quite a help, but led to some wrong conclusions as a result of not being able to accurately duplicate conditions met by the model in the water with for example, the outside water pressure. One last thing I want to mention before describing the internal workings is another spreadsheet, a running weight and balance sheet. This attempts to keep a tally of the weight of the model in comparison to the available buoyancy. An overweight surface model will simply sit a little lower in the water, but an overweight submarine will sink, so weight must not exceed buoyancy. In practice it must be kept to an amount significantly less, and the difference made up by fixed ballast, usually in the form of lead carried near the keel. This is because, unlike a surface vessel, a submerged submarine is entirely dependent on its centre of gravity being sufficiently below its centre of buoyance for stability, and it is hard to ensure this when the battery, motor and so on, must occupy space nearer the centre of the hull, and the superstructure represents weight carried high up. A high value of fixed ballast is playing it safe; stability is assured, but performance suffers because there is less weight available for the motor and battery. Aiming for just sufficient fixed ballast to provide adequate stability whilst allowing the maximum weight of battery, motor and so on is part of the art of the submarine designer, be it for full-size or a model.

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SPECIAL FEATURE CHASSIS

HULL JOINT SEAL

I needed a chassis running almost the full length of the model on which to mount the running gear and complete tail section. A ‘Tech Rack’ of threaded rods and circular section bulkheads was one possibility, but I settled on two aluminium extrusions to form the chassis rails with trays and cross members of folded aluminium sheet where needed to mount parts. The extrusions were 20mm x 20mm T-section with the middle leg cut down to 6mm; this provided stiffness in two directions and a smooth, unobstructed surface on the inner faces. Stainless steel fasteners were used throughout as I find them generally cheaper than brass now, and they’re much stronger. The chassis is attached to the tail section by means of socket head countersunk screws through the thickened side walls. These screws are visible on the outside of the hull and I really need to think of a better way of doing it, but in the meantime, the intention is to fill the screw heads once everything is proven. The ballast tank is a rubber bladder that occupies roughly the central one third of the chassis, supported by a half-section of PVC water pipe mounted to the chassis rails. The bladders are available from medical supply companies as blood pressure measuring cuffs in the smaller infant sizes (Smaller cuffs I mean, not cuffs for smaller infants!). Ahead of it, in the forward section, is a horizontal dividing plate on to which is mounted most of the electronics and below which is strapped the 12 Volt 5 Amp hour NiMH battery. Aft of the ballast tank is the underslung ballast pump and electronic speed controller (esc) for the motor with the mechanical pinch valve and failsafe above them. Finally, two cross members provide mounting for the rudder and hydroplane servos just ahead of the tail section.

Similarly easing the building burden more than a little was the machined aluminium bayonet fitting for the hull separation at the tail. This was the most expensive part, but worth it. The two mating parts are carefully epoxied into place into the two hull sections; they incorporate a slim O-ring that once properly adjusted and lubricated, provides a watertight seal whilst taking up a minimum of internal space. A friend is working on a 3D-printed bayonet fitting, which will be a boon for model submarine constructors as it will be cheaper and can be made in any desired size. The arrangement provides complete working access to the internal parts of the submarine except for the motor buried in the tail section, access to which requires disassembly.

ABOVE Principal parts of the forward (electronics) section.

PROPULSION The 545 type of brushed motor is mounted in the tail, and drives the propeller directly. Lacking a lathe and machining facilities, I decided I would make life easier by buying any specialised parts rather than attempt to make them myself. Hence the machined aluminium motor mounting, which neatly incorporates a rigid coupling and watertight seal for the shaft. A 20 Amp electronic speed controller (esc) is used, mounted close to the drive motor to minimise possible interference from its leads. It is important that the esc reverts to ‘stop’ in the case of loss of signal; the use of a mechanical speed controller in the old days carried a risk of the submarine motoring on and away into oblivion. The propeller is a cast bronze seven bladed scimitar type with a hub fitting to represent the full-size one, turned by a friend on his lathe. This serves as secure locking for the propeller to ensure it does not join its fellows, lost forever on the bottom of the lake.

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ABOVE Principal parts of the centre (ballast) section.

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FORWARD ELECTRONICS BAY This contains the receiver, main fuse, receiver battery (2300mAH NiMH type), switch, sub leveller, magnetic switch and the ballast controller. It is usual to have a receiver battery in a submarine model rather than rely on a BEC as it means there is less chance of a contagious total failure. Alas, 2.4GHz signals don’t penetrate water effectively, so an older r/c set operating in the 27 to 40MHz range

BELOW General view of completed model with hull separated.

ABOVE Principle parts of the aft (control) section.

must be used, depending on the laws of your country. The magnetic switch enables the submarine to be completely zipped up on the bench at home and then switched on or off again at the lake by moving a magnet in the prescribed direction in close proximity to the hull, a very useful feature and impressive to the uninitiated at the lake, as with the magnet concealed in your hand, you coax your model into life with a few carefully chosen prestidigitatorial words!

BALLAST PUMP An inexpensive pump of the geared type is used to fill, or empty, the bladder tank, taking about 20 seconds to fill it to its nominal capacity of a little less than 500ml. A box under my bench holds evidence of the many types of pump that have been tested, usually buying two of each to have a spare, before settling on a 12v geared pump marked ZC-A210, at a cost of about US$15 posted to my Australian address from China. The centrifugal type had poor self-priming and was non-reversible, relying on internal pressure to empty the tank; the peristaltic type looked perfect with self-sealing and reversibility, but was far too slow (50 to 100 ml/min); I had almost settled on two diaphragm pumps since they were of the strong and silent type (albeit non-reversible), but they needed to see a pressure differential for reliable operation (i.e. output at higher pressure than input) and a submarine ballast system can’t always provide this. The trouble with the selected geared pump was that it was not self-sealing, that is, it allowed a slow trickle of water to pass through it when turned off, which would make the model impossible to trim. I then embarked on a lengthy period of experimentation with solenoid valves to provide the required shutoff. I quickly found I needed two, for two-way operation, but even then conditions weren’t right for reliable operation of the servoassisted type solenoids. I refer here not to an r/c servo, but the operating principle of most solenoid valves which use a ‘bleed’ to assist their operation and are directional. Finally, I tracked down a non-servo, direct acting solenoid valve that would fit, only to find that its closing spring was too weak and allowed water to leak past at a depth of greater than about one metre. So, having collected a box full of useless solenoid valves to go with the box of unsuitable pumps (I could build a very complicated reticulation system for the garden

ABOVE Pinch valve in the open position.

ABOVE Principle parts of the aft section from the underside.

ABOVE Pinch valve in the closed position.

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SPECIAL FEATURE RIGHT Diagram showing arrangement of control linkages and propulsion components in the tail cone. BELOW Access hatch to the free-flooding tail section.

controller failsafe. Checking operation of the safety system is done at the start of every patrol. The submarine is submerged at some accessible point close to the launch spot and the transmitter is then switched off to simulate a loss-of-signal situation. After nine seconds the pinch valve opens and one second later the ballast pump fires up to bring the model to the surface.

CONTROL LINKAGES

one day!), I set about making a pinch valve. A pinch valve operates by squeezing tubing (usually silicone) to stop the water flow. Commercial ones are solenoid operated and very expensive, being made for medical purposes and draw a lot of power, up to 9 or 13W. A servo-operated one for a model submarine should have been simple enough to make, but it took three attempts and some dismay before I had one that I was happy with. I found that in order to lessen the actuating load and thus minimise buzzing and stress on the servo, I had to: a Use the shortest possible length of servo arm. Squeeze only across the open part of the tubing, not the full diameter. b Squeeze the tubing against a round pin, not a flat surface. c Keep the forces inline by mounting the squeezing roller (a stack of two 4mm ballraces) on the underside of the servo arm. Mounted on a HS-225MG Mighty Mini servo, which has metal gears and a ball-raced output shaft, the pinch valve has proven completely reliable. This valve cannot leak into the hull and there are no seals to wear out.

BALLAST CONTROLLER This is basically just an r/c switch that enables forward and reverse operation of the ballast pump via two relays, and in this case is made by Alexander Engel KG, but it has a number of safety features that make it more suited to model submarines. Should the

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main battery voltage fall to a pre-set level, a ‘blow’ command is given and further diving is disabled; a similar action occurs if the radio signal is lost for more than a short interval, and an extra input can be used to sense water leakage into the hull or for some other purpose. Here it is used to sense a full bladder (that is to say, a full ballast tank) and switch the pump off. Two micro-switches, one each side of the rubber bag at the front, are connected to this input and positioned to sense when the bag has expanded to its full extent. Either switch (or both) can stop the pump from pumping in, whilst the ballast controller still allows it to pump out. They are seldom needed, as the submarine begins to dive before the tank is full, making further flooding unnecessary, but if I should want to anchor the model on the bottom with full ballast to prevent it drifting etc., they will ensure that the pump shuts off safely before the submarine suffers a burst bladder. This would be a most distressing experience, as I am sure you can imagine……..

FAIL-SAFE? One more consideration was necessary before the ballast system could be signed-off. The fail-safe signal for blow ballast (in case of low voltage or loss of signal) is generated by the ballast controller, which controls the ballast pump, but is not able to control its pinch valve, which is connected to the same servo channel via a Y-lead. To ensure the pinch valve does open and allow an emergency surface I had to install a separate fail-safe in the line to its servo, set to operate just before the time delay on the ballast

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The 2mm diameter brass push-pull rods for the rudder and hydroplane linkages are carried through the rear pressure bulkhead via brass inserts that are fitted with a lip for rubber gaiters that provide the necessary waterproofing in the rear portion of the tail cone, which is free-flooding. Access for maintenance purposes is via a small hatch on the underside of the free-flooding area. To accommodate the rotary motion of the servos having to change to linear motion at the hull penetration and then back to a rotary one at the control horns, I rely on the flexibility of the brass rod linkages. This has proven sound and less troublesome than providing the extra pivots otherwise needed. A better quality of servo is recommended as they need to work through any seal/ linkage friction, and in the case of the hydroplane servo, cope with the demands of the automatic pitch controller (APC, please see later). I found the Hitec HS-225MG Mighty Mini type to be a good space-saving price and cost compromise. A little further aft, the propeller shaft, rudder stock, hydroplane axis and control linkages all converge in the very tight space of the tail cone. Obviously they About to go on (and under) the open water for the first time.

can’t all occupy the same point in space, so the control axes need to be routed around the propeller shaft in a way that allows the necessary movement, via ‘yokes’. I made use of some very strong ones made by Engel for this purpose and it is possible to replace all these parts if necessary, an essential feature in a model submarine. Because the arrangement is very tight and buried deep in the tail cone where I can’t photograph it, I have provided a 3D CAD diagram which should make things clear. Encouraged by the production of this, I then attempted a complete 3D model of the whole submarine, but alas, accurate modelling of the nose contours proved to be beyond my present ability although it was an interesting exercise all the same.

OTHER DETAILS Water for the ballast is supplied via the free-flooding tail through a fitting in the rear pressure bulkhead. So far I have not found the need for fitting a filter, the slots under the tail hopefully provide that function for larger objects (like the small fish that inhabit the local lake); a filter capable of separating very fine silt slows the pump down too much. Supports for the receiver aerial carry it far up in the pressure hull for better reception, particularly in swimming pools which tend to have r/c dead spots in places. Wires run past the bladder section on the outside of the chassis, to keep the area clear of snags and allow the bladder to expand fully. The bladder is anchored by its two filling tubes (one blanked off) and flops about a bit when empty, but fills in a predictable and balanced way. The reason for using a rubber bladder, rather than a tank vented into the interior, is that it keeps the humid air away from the electronics, where it is bound to cause problems. Alternatively, the ballast tank could be made much larger and sealed to contain the air compressed within it when it is flooded, but that takes up more space than we have in a small model. I have not attempted to duplicate the unusual front hydroplane arrangement of the Type 209, which has an ‘up’ plane on one

side and a ‘down’ plane on the other; fixed in their angle, they are extended outwards progressively for effect. Apart from the obvious difficulties of doing this in a small model with a plug-in tail, experience has taught me that a model like this manages perfectly well with only stern hydroplanes. Explanation of the sub-leveller device or auto-pitch controller (APC) may be useful for those unfamiliar with it. Connected in line with the hydroplane servo, its function is to sense when the model is not level and send a correction signal to the servo. This is needed on most (faster) model submarines as the operator on the shore is too far ‘out of the loop’ to provide the necessary correction manually; his efforts are only likely to induce ‘pilot induced oscillation’ and send the model porpoising badly. The properly adjusted sub-leveller device tames this tendency completely, whilst not interfering with a deliberate pitch change commanded by the operator for a change in depth.

INITIAL TRIALS IN HOME WATERS, AKA THE DOMESTIC BATHTUB I found I needed 775gm of fixed ballast in the form of lead roof flashing in the forward hull section, and a 60gm trim weight under the rear of the chassis to bring the model to its surface waterline. This was a little less than originally expected due to weight growth of the systems, but the model still displayed more than adequate stability. There were no bubbles or other visible signs of danger, so I flooded down in a voyage to the bottom of the bathtub (cue dramatic music and sonar pings!). In the confines of the bathroom, the sound of the ballast pump and pinch valve could be clearly heard operating. I will confess that I spent some considerable time sending the model up and down testing reliability of the system, but also coming to grips with the thought that I had something that looked as if it might work. A post-trial inspection revealed a little water had leaked into the hull, which was cured by packing out the O-ring in the bayonet fitting slightly, but nothing else was amiss, so I planned the first visit to the model boat lake.

OPEN WATER TRIALS AT THE LAKE First job at the lake after testing the safety system was to adjust the model’s submerged trim, a very important task that I had been unable to do in the bath because it wasn’t deep enough. The model was level on the surface, but nose-down when submerged. This was not entirely surprising, as I had calculated the ballast tank position for the conning tower to be where it should be, not where it currently was, 15mm further aft. I had to compensate for this by fitting floatation blocks under the deck casing at the front, above the surface water line. Access is gained via the removable cover of the front sonar array. I had prepared different sized blocks to assist with the trimming, but even so it took some time to get this right. The process is made more difficult by the need to ensure there is no air trapped somewhere under the deck casing. Watching a documentary on Royal Australian Navy submarines, I noted that on submergence it is standard procedure to run for a bit with the hull angled up and then down, to clear the deck casing of any trapped air and make easier the process of ‘catching a trim’. Heading off into deeper water, I found that the handling on the surface wasn’t too bad, better than my Engel Type 212, except for the turning circle, which was atrocious. It took most of the narrower part of the lake, where we launch from, to complete a 180 degree turn, and I made a note that modification was needed. Diving is normally made with some forward speed to make the hydroplanes effective and this was completed without drama in about 16 seconds. I would prefer that the ballast tank filled faster, say in 9 to 12 seconds, but on the other hand the slower timing makes achieving the desired trim level easier. With forward motion this is not critical as the model can be slightly heavy or (preferably) slightly light and be held at a given depth with the trim function acting on the hydroplanes. It is only when the model slows right down or stops that it reveals its trim state by rising or falling. Then the ballast system enables the fine adjustment needed to achieve a hover, or slow ascent/descent without forward motion. Submerged, the turning circle is much improved due to the top rudder being fully immersed and cruising at periscope depth can be achieved hands free. One of the advantages of this ballast system is its low current consumption, only about 800 to 900mA for the ballast pump for the few seconds it is operating, much less than a piston tank. The pinch valve draws some 500mA for the brief time it is changing state (OFF to ON or ON to OFF), otherwise current drain from the receiver battery averages only about 250mA so the 2300mAH battery has ample capacity. The current drain of the drive motor is only about 1.2 Amps maximum for a very respectable

Model Boats Winter issue

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SPECIAL FEATURE

1

Tentative exploration of the handling.

full speed submerged, and averages only about 600 to 700mA. After some three hours of operation, the low voltage failsafe had never triggered, indicating a maximum endurance of four hours should be readily achievable.

2

A realistic surface running waterline has been achieved.

SWIMMING POOL PICTURES The model proved very difficult to capture in a photograph, and I have to acknowledge the help of fellow modellers Stephen Day and John Elston on separate occasions. I have done it ‘solo’ before, operating the camera with my hands and the transmitter with my feet(!) but this is fraught with difficulty and in the end you could say I got cold feet and enlisted help. For one thing, you find yourself looking through the viewfinder and twiddling the camera controls with increasing desperation, wondering why the model is not responding. Then you put the camera down to find your model about to ram a large rock that was just outside the field of view, and I won’t even mention bending over the side of the pier because I had lost sight of the model, only to see my mobile phone and notebook perform a high dive from my top pocket into the murky depths, or finding that the waterproof case for my Mobius camera, wasn’t! The pool shots had to be taken with a cheap back-up camera, but they give an idea of what the model looks like in clear water, with its shadow providing an indication of depth under the keel. At one stage, we left the model hovering at mid-depth while we attended to some other matter. When we returned to it ten minutes or so later, we found the unattended model had drifted around the pool on the currents produced by the pool’s filter pump, but it was still hovering at the same depth and I was well pleased.

60

3

It has an appalling turning circle when on the surface!

AND NEXT? The model has proved its reliability in ten or twelve hours of operation so far and I feel sufficiently encouraged to carry out a refit when time permits. Like the shipyards of World War Two, my workshop and time is forever torn between carrying out necessary repairs and refits, and building new vessels. The refit will include correcting the conning tower position and modifying the deck profile

Model Boats Winter issue www.modelboats.co.uk

for better scale accuracy, replacing the supposedly stainless steel propeller shaft which is corroding, disguising the chassis mounting screws in the tail, making the tail joint less obvious and improving the turning circle. The only unobtrusive way I can see of achieving the latter would be to fit a rearward extension to the lower rudder that I can take off when the model is on display as the

4

Commencement of a dive.

5

The conning tower nearly underwater.

linkage will not allow any greater deflection. A downward extension would be vulnerable to damage when bottoming and doing away with the fixed portion to make the rudder allmoving would likewise leave it vulnerable to damage. I may also fit a pressure switch to guard against diving too deep if I can find the room for it as I am all too well aware that the depth of the lake far exceeds my own modest height. Whilst I am at it, LED running lights

6

7

Cruising at periscope depth – hands free!

Re-surfacing statically – please note the water pouring off conning tower.

would be nice, but will require a plug-in flying lead from the hull to the chassis to enable separation. These modifications will require a new paint job and re-adjustment of the surface and submerged trim.

CONCLUSION Scratch-building a model submarine is a practical proposition for an experienced modeller, and an immensely rewarding one

both in its building and its operation. I have included here a photo of this HDW Type 209 together with the Alexander Engel 212, the two submarines being to a similar scale. Your chances of it not becoming an abandoned project are greatly improved by a good understanding of the principles involved, taking a methodical approach and striving for good workmanship and reliability in the working parts, and of course by reading this article! Enjoy your hobby – John

ABOVE Composite image of the model at play in a swimming pool. RIGHT Engel 212 submarine and the Type 209 together.

61

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SPECIAL FEATURE

A front view of the completed mini-vacuum forming machine. The simple suitcase clamp is shown and a ‘tongue in cheek’ nameplate fretted out of aluminium is on its front. A mould for multiple clear moulded visors for 1:12 scale lifeboat crew Gecko helmets is shown ready for moulding and the platen is in the ‘down’ position.

SMALL VACUUM FORMING Ron Rees shows how to build this device for your home workshop

64

he vacuum forming of plastics has been around for ages and most modellers will have come across kit parts that have been made in this way. While they can be tricky to trim, there are times when mouldings like this are the only way to produce what we want, whether they need to be hollow, lightweight or lots of them and all the same. Most vacuum forming machines are quite big, yet most of the parts we use are small. Apart from some dental impression making machines that are not really small or affordable, the only solution

T

Model Boats Winter issue www.modelboats.co.uk

was to make a small one for myself, but first here are some general comments.

A VACUUM FORMING MACHINE AND HOW DOES IT WORK? In its simplest form you only need three pieces of equipment to start vacuum forming, not counting the plastic sheet and something to mould of course. These are: 1 A sealed box with some holes in the top and an outlet to which to connect a vacuum

WHICH PLASTICS CAN WE USE IN OUR VACUUM CASTING MACHINE? There are a considerable number of different plastics in use today, many with unpronounceable names, but they can be broken down into two main sub-groups: 1 Thermosetting plastics are not suitable for what we do as they are formed with heat and once set cannot be reheated. These are things like plastic mains plug tops and electrical fittings, and they will go brown, char and possibly burn if heated. 2 Thermoplastics are what we use. These plastics, formed flat or into shapes, contain a memory string of molecules which can be altered with the application of heat and will hold that shape when cooled. However, if then reheated, they will try to go back to their original shape.

ABOVE Example of a homemade push down type large Vacuum Former and this version will form 18 x 12 inch sheets. Left of the picture is a box containing a 2kw cooker element at its base and an aluminium lined heat expansion box on top. The frame with plastic sheet sits on the top of this for heating. The platen and the two-part frame is behind and is of plywood and MDF. Note the aluminium angle guides on the corners and the big rubber seals.

ABOVE A vacuum platen with three moulds on top, and please note the 2.5mm air holes every 10mm and also drilled in the mould (master) of the hull top inside the cockpit.

MACHINE cleaner hose. 2 A means of holding the sheet plastic around its edge, which is usually two metal or wooden frames clipped or bolted together, over the top of the box. 3 A method of heating the plastic sheet until it becomes soft. A basic device is normally based on the size of what you want to mould and the plastic sheet sizes available. A simple wood box made with MDF or plywood, the same size as the frame and at least 50mm (2 inches) or so deep,

ABOVE The push-down frame with a vac-forming from 2mm HIPS on top. This is what comes out of a larger homemade vacuum forming machine.

although more is better, with a hole in one end to fit your vacuum cleaner hose is what is desired for the most basic of machines. The top of this box should be perforated with holes, a spacing of 15 to 25mm in all directions, and 2 to 3mm diameter holes should be sufficient. An airtight seal around the top is important, so some form of door sealing, such as a rubber strip, should be fitted. Two frames, ideally of metal, but 15mm MDF is okay if you are careful, with a hole in each to allow a decent gripping area (30mm) all round will clamp the plastic sheet to be vac-formed. These are a bit like two picture frames, but without the pictures. Strips of rubber from garden pond liner or similar should grip and seal where the two halves match together. Either three

HIPS (High Impact Polystyrene) is the best for us and we know these products as Plasticard, Evergreen, Styrene, etc. which are readily available in precut sizes, thicknesses and quantities, usually in white, but coloured, dayglow, fluorescent, mirrored and clear examples are also in the marketplace. PET (Polyethylene Terephthalate) is the most used material in industry. It is sometimes called names such as Dacron or Terylene for fibres used in materials for clothing, carpets and so on, and also as Mylar which has the molecular strings biased in two directions and is very strong. This last material is used for adhesive tapes, space blankets and sails on yachts. Standard PET is used for clear drinks bottles, food packaging and shrink wrap, so is ideal for vacforming. PET is usually glass clear, but can also be milky or white. Too much heat can make clear PET turn milky white, so timing and heat settings are critical with it. PC (Polycarbonate) is another glass clear plastic, used extensively for roofing in the building industry as well as moulded cases for Laptops, mobile phones, bullet resistant glass, car parts like light lenses and so on. It is available in clear sheet form and needs a slightly higher temperature to vacform, but is very strong and almost crack resistant. PVC (Poly Vinyl Chloride) is available in mainly clear rolls and is used for blister packing of products. It is ‘Food Safe’ and so is good for making moulds for cooking, icing and chocolate products, and is also excellent for making our model windows.

strong hinges down one edge and suitcase or bulldog clips can speed-up assembly, but extra edges need to be catered for to accommodate these, as the flat part of the frame should fit flush to the top of the vacuum box. Put very simply, the piece of plastic is heated (a domestic heat gun will do the job) whilst positioned and clamped (using the two ‘picture frames’), over the hollow box. The mould(master) usually sits on a Platen lower down in the box and this is all moved upwards mechanically into the semi-melted plastic, At the same time, or immediately afterwards, a vacuum is created in the box which helps draw the plastic down tightly over the mould (master). It is best NOT to create the vacuum whilst the plastic is being warmed as it will then tend to crease.

www.modelboats.co.uk Model Boats Winter issue

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➜

SPECIAL FEATURE Plywood outer shape

Diagram A ‘Drape’ method - 1950’s

Wood shape on baseboard

Drawing pins

Plastic sheet

Pin plastic sheet to outer shape, warm under oven grill until soft, & push down over master - hold until cooled

WHERE CAN WE BUY PLASTIC? On small formers, thicknesses up to 2mm should be okay, but the small machine described here will struggle with 3mm. A larger machine with ceramic heaters shouldn’t have a problem, but in general though we seem to use more 1 to 2mm thick plastic than any other in our model making. There are numerous suppliers in the model trade and three are mentioned at the end of this article. A search for online plastic sheet suppliers will turn up dozens of them and buying in bulk can save money, but make sure you are purchasing exactly what you want and not something to make a fluorescent shop sign! Larger sheets are more economical than smaller sizes and there may well be a major supplier close to you. DIY building suppliers often stock sheets of secondary plastic double glazing which is about 2mm thick and usually clear. This can be handy, although quite brittle when cold. Some packaging companies sell clear Polycarbonate or Styrene on the roll which can be good value and the packaging used for Christmas cards, Easter Eggs and some

larger food items can be cut up and recycled for vacuum forming. Always ensure you have plastic sheet pieces of about 40mm (1.5 inches) larger all round than what you want to form and allow an extra three or four sheets to cater for your initial mistakes, something which is common until the equipment and the mould have warmed up and you have got the timing right.

MOULDS (MASTERS) FOR VACUUM FORMING The process involves sucking the air out and deforming a hot plastic sheet over an object to copy its shape or form. This means that ideally, the master should not be hollow itself, as if attempting to use an existing vacuum forming as a mould, the pressure created in the machine will inevitably crush or severely distort that original mould (master). You can make a copy from such a flimsy master, but you must fill it with Plaster of Paris, Plasticine or something similar before reaching for the vacuum forming machine. As an addendum here, a plaster copy of your original might be handy if it were ever damaged or corrupted.

The key point is that the master should be able to withstand heat and not itself deform in such an environment. The three most common materials to make the mould (master) are: MDF (Medium Density Fibreboard) Plaster of Paris Polyurethane Resin None of these need a shiny finished surface to produce a good product. Well finished close grain woods like Obechi, Jelutong and Hemlock are easily shaped and if properly dried also make good moulds. Pine works well too, provided it is well sealed. Details like rubbing strakes, hull plates, rivets can all be applied to a master using medium superglue which will withstand the heat applied when ‘vacuuming’, and hardwood strip, artist’s card and thin plywood are suitable for detailing, but beware of undercuts and remember that vac-forming of plastic is not too good for making sharp corners which leads us nicely on to the subject of ‘mould release’. As a general rule, a minimum two degrees of release angle should be built into the mould

Diagram B 2 rubber edged frames hold plastic, catches or bulldog clips lock together

The ‘T’ or Flip Former All plywood or MDF

Radiant heater or element, box lined with foil

Heat

Plastic sheet goes here Suck

Sealed box with holes

Vacuum

2-way hinges

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Model Boats Winter issue www.modelboats.co.uk

Can be made to fold up for storage

Rubber seal

Diagram C

Diagram D Frame fits oven rack

Clamp frame

Heater

C/s bolts & butterfly nuts

Seals

Platten

Rubber seals

Zone heaters & timers

Mould

Vacuum box Pull down to raise platten

60 - 75mm

Vacuum pump

Angle at corners to help align Vacuum

Push Down Former

Similar to ‘drape method’ plus ‘suck’

(master) all round, meaning the top should be a bit smaller than the bottom and the sides should slightly slope. Details like square chine rails that stick out of a hull will lock the master into the plastic moulding if we are not careful, and should NOT be used, but added later. The only exception could be if you had created a two-part mould. Some painted finishes on the master can be problem, primarily because of the heat involved in the process, and may cause the plastic to stick to it. However, properly dried enamel paints are usually okay if they don’t get too hot. There are release agents on the market for brush and spray application, and these are very good on plaster and resin. MDF will only need a light dusting of Baby Talcum Powder and household and car wax polishes also work well if applied thinly and left to dry before polishing. When the master has hot plastic draped over it and the air is sucked out from beneath, there is a tendency for the plastic to form a curve at the base where it touches the platen (the base piece with all the holes in it), and this reduces the height of the object produced as it needs to be cut off. To circumvent this problem, most objects to be moulded should be mounted on a base, raising them up by at least 6mm, and even 12mm, which is best done with a piece of MDF. The plastic can also form a bridge over fine recessed detail as air is trapped in the void and can’t get out. Air holes should be drilled right down through the whole mould (of 1 to 2mm diameter) in the recesses and all around the base, which allows the vacuum to reach all the parts of the mould and one of the

Cutaway View of Industrial Machine photos shows these holes in the bottom of the cockpit of the top deck and cockpit section of a high speed launch.

VACUUM FORMING MACHINES There are different designs, but the equipment needed is not ‘High Tech’ by any means, and is one reason why product packaging using formed plastics is so prevalent today. Simple Vacuum Formers are easy to make using inexpensive and readily available materials and well within the scope of a model maker. As the 1970’s moved into the 1980’s, r/c cars and helicopters became popular and articles in a range of magazines showed us newer methods of forming plastics using single or twin cylinder type vacuum cleaners to suck the soft plastic down over the mould and various complicated box structures for making car bodies and helicopter fuselages. More vac-formed model boat hulls began appearing in kits and articles as well. Today, a search on YouTube will show you how far these methods have progressed, with a host of construction and ‘How to do it’ articles available, all well worth a look if you are so inclined. There are a number of designs for Vacuum Formers and here is a brief description of some of them: Drape moulding – Diagram A Early Model Maker magazines showed us how to make these moulds which used the household oven or grill to soften sheet plastic over a carved wooden shape and then force a second outer shaped pattern down over it all. This simple hit and miss method had its drawbacks and two or three attempts were

often the norm’. The main requirements for the modeller though were good oven gloves and a patient wife! The Folding ‘T’ Design – Diagram B A newcomer, this lends itself to home construction especially where larger moulds need to be made. This type is invariably, in its simplest form, designed around a radiant fire or a two to four ring cooker hob. This is laid on its back in a shallow box lined with a metal like stainless perhaps, or more likely aluminium, or even baking foil. A sturdy two-part frame that clips together to hold the plastic to be moulded is hinged to one side of the heater box and can swing over it, but also in the other direction where another shallow box is fitted with the platen top with holes etc. all connected to the vacuum cleaner. Moulds are placed on the drilled-out platen side of the device and the heater is warmed-up. A four inch airspace should be allowed above the radiant bars of the heater as the sheet can burn and also in case the plastic sags down and touches it. Some people will fit a metal mesh for this purpose and personal safety, such as to stop errant hands going inside the device. The clamped plastic sheet is swung over the heater and when soft the vacuum is switched on and the frame flipped over and pushed down hard on to the platen side, sealing the air box. Using a mains domestic heater throws up other considerations, mainly safety, so no comment here on their use from me – sorry! However, you are then into the zone of making large plastic hulls, but the point of this article is to make a small unit to produce small fittings.

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67

SPECIAL FEATURE Homemade Mini Vac-former For Small Model Mouldings

Diagram E

Not to scale

Right Side Front

Cut 1 10mm thick

130

Cut 2 10mm thick ply MDF or acrylic

130

Cut 1 10mm thick

Left Side

Front

Front & Back

Ø10mm half depth Ø10mm thru 20

10

20 120

140

120 Hole to suit vacuum hose (snug fit)

Chamfer top edges

Base

180

Cut 1 10mm thick

140

Cut 1 1.5mm alum. (15mm edge)

110

Top Frame

110

140 142

Ø6mm mounting holes

Clamping Frame

180

5 x 0.75mm pond liner strip all round

Ø10mm

Mitre cut 4 off x 142mm long 15 x 15 x 3mm angle brass to make hinged top frame. Jig & solder at corners

Platten

Cut 1, 12mm ply

Ø3mm

116

Ø3mm

15

3

15

56 Ø3mm

Ø3mm 2 off

116 Drill Ø2 - 2.5mm holes at min. 10mm spacing to cover whole surface

Levers

Lock collet

2 off each 1.5mm (1/16”) brass 80

4mm grub screw 152 x Ø10mm brass rod (1 off) Drill Ø4mm 2 hinges 1 case catch 3mm nuts & bolts

Soft solder levers here Left side

Rubber ‘o’ rings

Right side

Handle Ø4mm

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Model Boats Winter issue www.modelboats.co.uk

Wood ball

The Household Oven and ‘Push Down’ Method – Diagram C This method is based around a two-part frame which holds the plastic sheet firmly at its edges and this should slide on the runners in your domestic oven, usually under the electric grill. Metal for the frames should be rigid and 0.5 x 0.5 inch steel angle can be bolted together with supporting L-shaped brackets. The main problem with this method is handling the hot frame when you get it out of the oven, and pushing it down on to the mould and vacuum box. A hardwood frame would do, but the chances of charring under the grill limits its life and poses a distinct fire risk, and of course heatproof gloves are essential. The vacuum box for this method is simple, it being a sealed 2 inch (50 to 75mm) deep box with an inlet pipe for the vacuum cleaner hose. The top is drilled with dozens of 2 to 3mm holes to suck the air through and a rubber seal fitted around all the edges to make it airtight when the frame with its softened plastic is pushed down onto it. Quite large mouldings can be catered for and it would certainly make a 4 to 5 inch depth model boat hull. Larger industrial machines - Diagram D Workshop space is usually at a premium, so a big clunky device that would be forever in the way is not the plan. The other aspects of size also dictate whether one could use the workshop vacuum cleaner for the ‘sucking’ element and maybe a hot air gun for softening the plastic, this tool being to hand

and was once used for shrinking the covering of model planes, but now only for heat shrinking of the tubing over wiring. You can get numerous 4 to 6 inch squares out of a sheet of clear or white plastic, thereby reducing waste and ultimately cost, so the decision was made to go for a small(ish) size as it would be perfect for my needs. Anyone who would like to make one larger, just needs to follow the general principles and increase the sizes to suit their own requirements, but a free-standing industrial sized machine is rather too large for our domestic model making workshops I suspect. The moving Platen design – Diagram E When these machines started about 60 years ago, companies like Formech and Clarke came up with the most efficient, compact and reliable designs at the time and they are still sound today. They made the Platen, which has the perforated base and holds the mould, move up and down inside a sealed box simplifying the process and making it a one-man job. This moving distance is called the ‘Draw Depth’ and is necessary to make deeper mouldings. The hinged metal frame lay on the top of the box, locked in place by simple cam latches, while the plastic to be formed was firmly held between its two layers of rubber seal. A radiant electric heater (now usually ceramic) was fitted about three to four inches above this and was rolled back and forth on runners heating the plastic fixed in its frame. A mechanism was fitted which stopped the platen being raised while the heater

was in place. The heaters usually had four temperatures, switched from a control panel and there was also a mechanism for setting the heating times. Smaller reducing frames could be fitted for small mouldings and my big machine can be fitted with these, but they are expensive and anyway I don’t have them, so it has been more practicable to make a small bench top version as featured in this article, this last diagram showing the key parts. The machine featured in this article is derived from the full-size design of operation which allows us to form small items with a compact unit. For the modeller’s workshop, it was decided to keep this unit mains voltage free and use the moving platen design as in full-size machines and it can be operated by one hand. It is designed specifically for producing small items using 5 inch square pieces of plastic, and is a handy gadget for making fittings, domes and small lifeboat hulls etc. out of scrap plastic packaging as mentioned earlier. The prototype was made from a 10mm thick black sheet material called Coran, which is used for cutting boards, stage floors, gear wheels etc. This was only because it looked nice, had a slippery surface and there was a decent–sized offcut in the domestic workshop. In retrospect, wood should have been used because this Coran material will not glue, and even silicone just peels off it, meaning that everything had eventually to be screwed and sealed with aluminium tape to make the box airtight, but again all part of one’s learning curve!

THE MINI VACUUM FORMING MACHINE The parts and how it goes together are covered in the photos (and Diagram E) within this article, but some minor assembly hints and tips may be helpful. Builders may opt to enlarge the machine a little and I suggest you go no bigger than seven inches square as the ability of the domestic heat gun or hot air paint stripper to warm the area of plastic adequately may be diminished. I would recommend that you keep the height of the machine the same as shown in order that the Continued on next page

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LEFT This aluminium sheet was fitted under the platen piece and drilled through as well. This is optional and is therefore not shown on the drawings.

ABOVE The four sides of the Mini-Vac. Note the pre-drilled holes and the one by the number 4 front of picture) is only half the depth

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****Steve: Captioned Photos 004, 005, 006, 007 & 008 VAC go with the

SPECIAL FEATURE THE MINI VACUUM FORMING MACHINE CONTINUED raising mechanism measurements remain the same as well. It was quite fiddly getting those angles and dimensions right and it has a ‘draw depth’ of over 50mm (2 inches) which is more than adequate for most of our fittings. Use wood for the box, as it is easier to get a good airtight seal on all the joints, 10mm MDF, plywood or pine being ideal. The inside of the box must be square as the platen moves up and down inside it, and a quick smooth operation is what you want. To this end some of you may notice that the platen is undersize on the plan. This is to allow strips of aluminium or plastic, about 18mm wide and 1 to 1.5mm thick, to be fitted around it flush with the top. These parts were omitted from the sketches

because of space, but they ensure that the platen rises and falls in a smooth manner. To save painting the inside, some additional thin strips of plastic, 6 x 0.5mm, should be fitted vertically for fine trimming the up/ down action and you may have a glimpse if these in the pictures. I would suggest that you drill and screw the wood parts together as you build, but don’t glue them just yet. The machine cannot be assembled fully until the lift mechanism is installed and tested. Once that is okay, add PVA or Aliphatic Resin to the joints and finally screw it all together. With the base off, you can ensure that any glue on the inside does not impede the up and down moving action.

ABOVE The 0.5 inch plywood platen marked with the hole spacing and epoxied to the aluminium plate before drilling. BELOWThe platen being drilled. Holes can be random as long as there are enough of them to vacate the mould when in use and the air is being drawn out. Neat lines look nicer and more professional than random holes.

ABOVE The completely drilled platen. A piece of fine mesh over the holes will stop thin plastic entering them and perhaps locking the moulding. This is industry practice, but may not be needed on a small machine. The platen has been fitted with a 5 x 1.5mm edge all round. This should have a thin rubber strip added as it seals in the ‘up’ position against the top aluminium frame and will stop the hot plastic from creeping underneath.

HOSE CONNECTOR The photo shows a cast resin hose connecter and this is not essential, but adding another layer of wood here before drilling the hose hole will give a better and stronger ‘snug’ airtight fit and electrical tape around the hose can be used to take up any slack. Inside the box, two strips were also added (not shown) which allows the platen to sit level near the bottom before the lift mechanism can lock itself by dropping too far. 6 x 6mm brass angle was fitted in the prototype, but 6mm square hardwood strip is fine. Please note that the top of the platen should sit level, 55mm below the top of the box. All the parts that get hot, such as the box top and the clamp frame were made from metal for obvious reasons, as well as rigidity. These were furnished with rubber seals cut from some pond liner rubber. This type of rubber sheet can be bought cheaply from an aquarium shop. All the rubbers were glued with medium superglue, but with a wooden box, impact adhesive would be fine. RIGHT A vacuum hose attachment was made in resin for the prototype, but a disc of 0.5ins (12mm) wood added here and drilled through would probably be better.

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LIFTING MECHANISM This is a key part of the machine and the accompanying photographs show the schematic diagram and its manufacture. It is necessary to work out the geometry for the platen raising mechanism. The main actuator arm and the levers are brass so they can be soft soldered where needed. Please

note the small aluminium brackets which are not clear on the drawings. These were cut from T-shaped extrusion and attach the pivot levers to the centre underside of the platen. 3mm Nyloc nuts were used at all pivot points. Soldering was done on a heatproof flat surface and soft solder is more than adequate, the plastic melting well before its temperature can affect the soft solder.

ABOVE Working out the geometry for the platen raising mechanism. The main actuator arm and the levers are all brass so they can be soft soldered where needed. Please note on the top of photo the small aluminium brackets which are not clear on the drawings. There were cut from T-shaped extrusion and attach the pivot levers to the centre underside of the platen. 3mm Nyloc nuts were used at all pivot points.

ABOVE The lifting mechanism was laid out on a heatproof flat surface and soldered, the rod at the bottom was used for alignment. You can also see the upper levers attached to the platen with the aluminium pivots.

RIGHT An underside view of the completed machine showing the lift mechanism in place before the bottom was put on. A close look will show one of the brass levelling strips fitted inside which keeps the platen level and stops the levers hitting the bottom of the box. If the platen can tilt on its way up, then it may lock and spoil the moulding.

➜ CLAMP FRAME The square aluminium top frame, which should hang over the hole of the box by 5mm, can be epoxied together, or screwed, or soldered, it having a rubber seal on the flat horizontal face. A home-made wooden jig, which is shown in the picture made things a bit easier. You can use any stock angle, aluminium or steel will do, perhaps bolting together with steel angle plates. All the hardware, hinges, case catch and the angle plates are readily available from Screwfix and Tool Station. B&Q do an assortment of metal angle bars, one metre long, which are suitable but they can be pricey! LEFT The hinged metal frame for clamping down the plastic was assembled using mitred joints and soft solder. A simple disposable jig was made to ensure squareness and copper wire from 2.5 electrical cable twisted round it all to clamp it together.

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SPECIAL FEATURE

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COMPLETED MACHINE AND VACUUM FORMING A CLEAR HELMET VISOR In some of the article pictures, a square of fine aluminium mesh has been fitted loosely over the platen holes. This is industry practice to stop plastic being sucked into the holes and aid release, and is an option if the problem arises, but is not essential, at least initially. Where the actuator arm comes through the side is the only possible source of an air leak, so care in ensuring that you recess the holes either side to install a rubber O-ring is desirable. The collet on the prototype was used to lock the shaft in place and keep the O-ring sealed tightly to reduce air bleeding in or out. The principle of its operation was described earlier in this article.

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The following sequence of pictures shows the process of making a clear visor for a lifeboat crewman’s helmet visor. The master is of polyurethane resin, with nine castings made from one original wood master, so that nine visors can be vac-formed at the same time. 1 The completed machine with the actuating lever on the side and the hinges at the back of the clamping frame. The platen is in the ‘up’ position. 2 Another view of the machine and the platen in the down position and the multiple (9) visor master on top of it. You can see the white plastic strips inside the box which ensure the platen can rise and fall smoothly and the rubber sealing strips at the top.

PLASTIC SUPPLIERS SHG Model Supplies Website: www.shgmodels.com Tel: 01785 840308. Technology Supplies Website: www.technologysupplies.co.uk Tel: 08455 670000 Other traders such as Deans Marine can supply sheet plastic in various sizes and thicknesses on request.

7 3 The clear plastic is being clamped in the frame. 4 Heat is being applied to the clear plastic. The vacuum cleaner hose is not connected to box, but normally would be so and ready for the suction to start once the platen is raised. 5 The platen has been raised and the clear plastic drawn down over the master. 6 Here you can see the clear plastic vacforming being removed. The rubber seals around the clamping frame are critical. 7 This is a completed clear visor cut from the vac-formings for the lifeboat crew member’s helmet.

CONCLUSION I hope you enjoy making this handy gadget and at the time of writing in late-July 2017, plans are afoot for a new model boat which will require several small vac-formed parts and some new lifeboat figures sporting moulded clear visors on their helmets. Total cost of parts for the Vacuum Forming machine shown here came to about £18, and it is a useful addition to the workshop. Happy Boating - Ron Rees

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1:700 SCALE NAVAL DIORAMAS

The Liberty Ship Nathaniel Greene which was part of Convoy JW 58 (March & April 1944). She is a straightforward 1:700 scale build of a Tom Modelworks kit, but with extra detail in the form of surface damage with her deck cargo dispersed and scattered from the force of an explosion nearby. The destroyer HMS Onslaught G04 is coming alongside to provide assistance.

MODELLING O & P CLASS WW2 Chris Drage discusses what is needed to build an accurate miniature of one of these famous destroyers n the regular series in the monthly issues of Model Boats, time has been spent on making seascapes and discussing the conversion of various 1:700 scale warship models, but we but have not gone into great detail on how to achieve the latter. In this 2017 Model Boats Winter Special Edition, we will be discussing the essential information required to convert a Tamiya

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1:700 scale Royal Navy O Class destroyer kit into a far more accurate model of one of these iconic destroyers. The Tamiya offering is, like the original Skywave kit, very basic but with a little effort and some photo-etched brass detailing, can make into a very attractive miniature, once properly completed. One of the advantages of these kits is that they are relatively inexpensive, easily available online and would prove to be a good project for someone wanting to expand their modelling

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skills and hobby interests into making a diorama. I have to confess right here and now though, that the original research and writeup was undertaken many years ago by the American modeller Nat’ Richards, who published his article via the US International Plastic Modellers Society (IPMS). Paolo Pozzi (America) then republished it with changes on his Navismagazine Website, but as of now in 2017, both of these resources are no longer available to us. Later, a fellow UK modeller, ex-R.N. Commander Tim Stoneman who is a fountain of knowledge relating to all things concerning Royal Navy destroyers, sent me his comments on errors in these articles and corrections

Plastic (styrene) strip and card, plus the photo etched after-market WEM offering. ABOVE A montage of original pictures courtesy of Alan Raven.

ABOVE Only basic hand tools and glues are required.

EMERGENCY DESTROYERS that should be made. I thank these three modellers for their invaluable help in presenting this amalgam of their ideas, which forms the basis of what follows.

O AND P CLASS DESTROYERS Most of these ships received relatively few additions and modifications during WW2. It is always best to research a specific ship carefully before building from the Tamiya kit, so that only the appropriate alterations are made. Many of the modifications mentioned here are as a result of the general evolution of their equipment. For instance, where most RN destroyers had the Quad 2 pounder pompom replaced with more modern and effective

weapons, these destroyers all seemed to have retained this gun mounting throughout WW2. In other words, obtain as much ‘dated’ information about your particular project before commencing work, the Internet of course being a valuable (but not always 100% correct) resource.

THE MODELS The Tamiya kit is a fair representation of the 4.7 inch, in four single turrets, armed O and P Class destroyers. The mouldings are generally correct in shape, though very spartan on detail, but this can be easily fixed. White Ensign Models (WEM) produces an exquisite detail set specifically for this kit,

which contains parts applicable to most of these War Emergency Destroyers. However, straight out of the box the kit will produce only the Class leaders, namely HMS Onslow or HMS Pakenham. The other three ships armed with 4.7 inch guns of the O Class were HMS Offa, HMS Onslaught and HMS Oribi, which may be represented from the kit with only minor changes. There is another complication to bear in mind and that is because there was a shortage of 4.7 inch guns, some of these destroyers were fitted with 4 inch guns and also to save top weight in some configurations, such as for minelaying duties. The first error in the kit is the box-like shelter in the middle of the bridge. With no evidence to support there being such a structure, the

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1:700 SCALE NAVAL DIORAMAS

representation in the kit is a probably the result of a misinterpretation of a detailed drawing of HMS Onslow in Alan Raven and John Roberts’ book, British Warships of the Second World War, now long out of print. The kit appears to draw upon most, if not all, of its detail from this source. The drawing shows the awning frame above the bridge, which the original Skywave mould-maker interpreted as solid. This is borne out by the representation of the bridge deck grating on top of the shelter depicted in the kit. Another carry-over from that drawing, is the kit’s positioning of a liferaft moulded on to the deck under the torpedo tubes and this should, for HMS Onslow at least, have been on the after section of the Quad 2 pounder pompom platform. One improvement Tamiya has made to the original Skywave kit is to add four of the 4 inch BELOW Schematic diagram showing necessary changes to superstructure mouldings.

ABOVE The basic corrections to the Tamiya 1:700 scale kit hull. single mountings to allow the representation of the remaining O Class destroyers and all of the P Class. However, these parts are nowhere near correct in shape and should be either reworked or discarded in favour of scratch built parts. Three of the four inch mounts (A, B and X) were in shields whilst Y (the aftermost gun mount) and Q (the amidships mount, if fitted) were not shielded. By purchasing a second set of the WEM photo etched detail set just for the photo etched single 4 inch Mk. V gun mounting, that ensures there are identical parts in Q and Y positions. The WEM set also includes a replacement tread plate for Q mount, which looks much better than that in the kit. Additionally, the rangefinder on top the bridge is only for the 4.7 inch fitted destroyers, the 4 inch destroyers having a High Angle (HA) director.

HMS Pakenham was built with five 4 inch guns and not the 4.7 inch as found in the kit. For the A, B and Y guns in shields, use the Tamiya ones as sadly, WEM (White Ensign Models) did produce excellent alternatives, but they are now no longer available. Use the unshielded ones in Q and X positions (please use the poor representation in Q position from the kit, or the photo etched one from the WEM fret). After HMS Pakenham’s Malta refit, the Q gun had been replaced by a quad torpedotube mounting. Whether that had a blast shield (or perhaps not), as on the part in the Tamiya kit, photographic evidence is not clear and cannot confirm.

MODIFICATIONS Here, it may seem that there is too much detail in the following, but if you want to get it right then research is essential, plus some determination to get rid of obvious kit faults and errors. The following modifications and improvements need to be performed to generally resolve the Tamiya kit’s basic faults: 1. Fill in the bow dents which are a poor attempt at hawseholes. Then re-drill and use photo etched anchors and chains to complete. 2. Remove the box from bridge as this was never fitted to any ship. 3. Relocate the bridge unit 2mm aft and enlarge wing decks on bridge for 20mm guns (please see diagram). 4. Modify and clean up the range finder. 5. Fabricate and install riser and box (RDF office) between the tripod legs. 6. Add radar and crow’s nest as applicable.

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Getting started and the ruler shows the actual sizes of the parts.

RADARS The kit’s radars should definitely be replaced as the development of radar advanced very quickly. The sequence of change of the various outfits went like something like this: Surface warning: Type 271 (first fitted to HMS Oribi in February 1943); Type 272 from August 1943; Type 276 from June 1944 and Type 293 from November 1945. Air warning: Type 286; Type 290 from mid-1941) and Type 291 which became standard equipment throughout fleet from late-1941 onwards. Gunnery radar: This was a combination of surface low angle and anti-aircraft high angle for the main armament of destroyers. Type 285 from late-1940) and Type 286 from early-1941); Type 282 was fitted as close range anti-aircraft directing radar and was fitted to the Hazemeyer Bofors gun units. All ships were originally fitted with a Medium Frequency Direction Finder (MF/DF) mounted to front of bridge. Later this was removed, and a High Frequency Direction BELOW Steady progress now, with the basic models in primer. At this stage, the hulls are still very similar.

Finder (HF/DF) was fitted to the mast head. The location of the HF/DF aerial varied from ship to ship and for example: HMS Petard had it on a topmast above her lattice mast; HMS Onslow with a lattice mast had its HF/DF on a pole mast aft as did HMS Pathfinder with a tripod, whereas HMS Opportune (lattice mast) and HMS Oribi (tripod) had no HF/DF. SWRDF (Surface Warning Radar Direction Finding) locations varied as well. Where fitted in ships with tripod masts, it was on a solid tower in place of the 40 inch diameter searchlight, and on the top of the lattice mast on those so fitted. Most of the O Class had lattice masts by the end of the war, but HMS Oribi did not, although HMS Onslow was so fitted during damage repairs after the Barents Sea action. HMS Onslaught in her refit from July 1943 to September 1943; HMS Opportune by November 1943, HMS Offa in her refit November to December 1943 and HMS Orwell by March 1944. A side effect of the increased number and size of the various radar arrays was the strain it put on the tripod masts and this was the reason for the experimental fitting of a lattice configuration mast on HMS Onslow during April 1943. It was, as it turned out, a successful means of carrying the weights of the radar antennae aloft with a minimum of vibration. Apparently, only HM Ships Onslow, Offa and Petard were fitted with the lattice mast during WW2, although all surviving ships in both classes were later fitted with them and thankfully a lattice mast is included in WEM detail set.

FURTHER KIT MODIFICATIONS 1. Replace the Tamiya kit’s 2 pounder pompom with a scratch built version, or one from the WEM photo etch set. The O and P Class destroyers had a Quadruple 2 pounder aft of the funnel, which they retained throughout the war. 2. Add a 25 feet long (11mm at 1:700 scale) motor launch from the spares box amidships to starboard. Even though this appears on the box art it is not included in the Tamiya kit, even though all ships carried this type of boat in this location. 3. Lower the wings of 20mm platform on searchlight platform by 2mm.

4. Raise platform and bulwark around amidships (4 inches from bows) and the ready use boxes 1mm and 2mm respectively. 5. ‘Bulge’ the after gun deck (please see diagram). 6. Add depth charge throwers to each side. The four minelaying O Class destroyers had throwers repositioned to the forward end of X gun deck, to leave the upper deck clear for mine rails when fitted. This left positions which had the deck strength required for 20mm Oerlikons to be fitted, where the remainder had depth charge throwers. 7. Fit main weaponry. The four O Class fitted for minelaying had four 4 inch guns to reduce top weight and it is quite probable that none of them had a 4 inch in Q position. The P Class were fitted with 4 inch guns, as insufficient 4.7 inch were available, as an anti-aircraft capable destroyer flotilla was felt by some to be a definite military requirement. Some P Class destroyers had five guns, but by the time the last destroyers were completed, the desirability of a full torpedo armament had once again been recognised. The first four P Class were initially fitted with five 4 inch guns and four torpedo tubes, although all had Q gun removed and the tubes replaced: HMS Pakenham in December 1942; HMS Paladin between July 1942 and April 1943; HMS Panther in early-1942 and HMS Partridge in April 1942. HMS Penn may also have started life with five guns. HMS Petard was rearmed during a major refit in 1944. The four single guns were replaced with two, twin HA/LA Mk. XVI four inch guns in the B and X positions. No weaponry was carried in the A and Y positions. Four single 20mm mounts were carried on an enlarged searchlight platform and two twin 20mm mounts on the bridge wings. In addition, a lattice foremast and a small lattice tower on the after deckhouse to carry part of her radar complement. WEM offers a short lattice mast and profile of HMS Petard on its O and P Class photo etched detail set.

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BELOW More details being added, but note the superstructure changes.

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1:700 SCALE NAVAL DIORAMAS an Admiralty Standard scheme looked like and the painting guide on the back of the box references various Tamiya paints which I confess mean absolutely nothing to me, as I do not use that brand of paint! Later in WW2, Mediterranean types were assigned the dark hull and light upperworks design.

AND THE RESULT OF ALL THIS? A stern view of the models and the structural main deck changes are now quite obvious including the armaments. HMS Opportune G80 (four 4.7 inch turrets) is at the back with HMS Onslaught (three 4 inch turrets) is in front. Even though the 4.7 inch turrets are physically smaller, the gun was actually larger than those on HMS Onslaught. 8. Fit anti-aircraft weapons. The sequence in which the light AA weapons were developed and deployed was: ● On the bridge wings: 0.5 calibre machine guns; single Oerlikons from December 1940; twin Oerlikons on a power operated mount from March 1943. ● On the pom-pom platform: Quad 2 pdr; twin Oerlikons; Hazemeyer Bofors. ● On the searchlight platform: Twin 0.5 calibre machine guns; single Oerlikons; twin Oerlikons, Hazemeyer Bofors. HMS Onslow and HMS Oribi were not completed with the two single 20mm Oerlikons on the searchlight platform, but these were added soon after. HMS Offa was completed with quad 0.5 calibre machine guns on each bridge wing and two single 20mm on the searchlight platform. Single 20mm guns replaced the machine guns in early-1942. HMS Onslaught was completed with 20mm Oerlikons on both the bridge wings and the searchlight platform. The four minelayers were completed with 20mm Oerlikons on the bridge wings and two more single guns on the main deck aft, although HMS Obdurate never had these guns, and two twin 0.5 calibre machine guns on the searchlight platforms. All of the surviving ships had the single Oerlikons on the bridge wings replaced by twin mounts during the 1943 to 1944 period. All of the P Class ships, except HMS Petard were completed with single Oerlikons on the bridge wings and searchlight platform. HMS Petard had twin 0.5 calibre guns on the searchlight platform and from mid-1942, these were replaced by Oerlikons. HMS Pathfinder and HMS Penn had the mounts on the wings replaced by twin mounts. Top weight was a problem for all destroyers as the war progressed and one of the first things usually removed was the 44 inches diameter searchlight carried on a platform between the torpedo tubes. Though all ships were completed with this searchlight, all the surviving ships seem to have had it removed by mid-1944.

CAMOUFLAGE AND MARKINGS The O and P Class destroyers carried the Western Approaches or Admiralty Disruptive types of camouflage. Both types consisted of uneven stripes of two or three colours with no delineated, specified proportions. The officially designated colours being: Western Approaches: White, medium grey-green (507B/MS3) and light blue (B6). Admiralty Disruptive: Dark grey (507A/G10), medium blue (B5), light blue (B6) and light grey (507C/G45). The one or two-toned overall scheme was designed to make a warship blend into its background. The colours involved were almost entirely either: Light grey (507C/G45), medium grey (507B/ MS3), dark grey (507A/G10) and later medium blue (B20). Before WW2, British destroyers were generally light grey overall, but with the coming of hostilities, they were repainted either in the disruptive pattern or an overall coat of medium or dark grey. From 1940 onwards, particularly in the Mediterranean, the decks and structures were painted light grey while all or most of the hull remained one of the two darker greys. The demarcation line was either the main deck level or the entire hull profile. From 1943, some destroyers received a strake of dark grey or medium blue up to the main deck level, running from A position gun aft to X gun, while otherwise overall still in light grey. Having said all the foregoing, Tamiya’s box art offers a fair representation of what

ABOVE Both models are now complete, bar the rigging which will be of a fine copper electrical wire.

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Model Boats Winter issue www.modelboats.co.uk

All the foregoing is very good on paper, but it is known from eyewitness accounts and surviving colour photos that the colours used on warships of this era varied greatly. This is generally due to the fact that Flotilla commanders and individual ship’s captains were allowed to use whatever paint was available locally. When combined with the effect of weathering it is almost impossible to get the exact colours, so it is up to the discretion of the modeller to estimate the amount of variation they wish to use. The point of all this though, is that there were huge variations in the fittings on warships of even the same class and type and the modeller (yes, you) should spend some time researching exactly what they are proposing to build, something that is much easier in this modern Internet age, but there is no substitute for a well-illustrated book by an established expert.

PENNANT NUMBERS Each ship was assigned a pennant number and these are important as it fixes immediately which ship it is, and therefore if you are stating a particular timeline, then what it should look like and the colour scheme. On most warships, the pennant number was carried on the hull in three positions: Main deck level beneath the bridge (port and starboard) and across the stern. The Tamiya kit comes complete with all of the pennant numbers for the O class ships, but not the P Class, but a little careful ‘cut an’ splice work on the kit decals will allow you to piece together most of what you need. Pennant numbers were either plain black or white depending on the colour of the hull. Flotilla leaders did not carry the numbers assigned to them, but had a 4 feet wide (1.5mm in 1:700 scale black band around the funnel.

The aft part of both models and the differences between the 4 inch and 4.7 inch turrets is very clear.

ABOVE Both models are now ready for inclusion in a diorama.

HMS Opportune G80 at speed avoiding a bombing attack and the aircraft apparently now shortly about to crash. She has three 4 inch guns, a Bofors right aft and a full set of torpedo tubes.

REFERENCES & ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Sovereign Hobbies (online model shop) www.sovereignhobbies.co.uk .For various RN destroyer detailing sets including: From White Ensign Models: PE 721, 1:700 RN O Class destroyer etched brass details. Wonderland Models (Edinburgh) Website: www.wonderlandmodels.com Tamiya 1:700 British Destroyer O Class model kit, Ref No. 31904 Tom’s Modelworks – Liberty Ship kit Website: www.tomsmodelworks.com Special thanks and recognition go to: Nat Richards in the USA who did most of the original ground work in 1981 & 1982. Tim Stoneman for his encyclopedic knowledge of WW2 destroyers. Alan Raven for sharing his unique photos of HMS Onslaught. LEFT HMS Onslaught G04 closing the Liberty Ship Nathaniel Greene. This destroyer has four 4.7 inch guns and one set of torpedo tubes has been removed. The downside of small dioramas is that the ships have often to be positioned closer to one another than in real life when at sea. If a 100 yard spacing minimum were to be applied, then one would have a much, much larger baseboard with its seascape and the models all wellspaced, but looking rather lonely. That is why a harbour scene can circumvent that problem and is the reason for (in larger scales) quayside and ship maintenance dioramas being popular.

NAMES AND PENNANT NUMBERS WERE: HMS Onslow G17 HMS Obdurate G39 HMS Obedient G48 HMS Offa G29 HMS Onslaught G04 HMS Opportune G80 HMS Oribi G66 HMS Orwell G98

HMS Pakenham G06 HMS Paladin G69 HMS Panther G41 HMS Partridge G30 HMS Pathfinder G10 HMS Penn G77 HMS Petard G56 HMS Porcupine G93

CONCLUSION All the foregoing may seem very complicated, but I hope it shows that there is much that

goes into a diorama than just simply inserting a kit-built model into a seascape. Research is at least 50% of the fun of it all as getting this right, and therefore your model right, means that you can truly say that your diorama represents HMS xxxxx at a given point in time and in a given theatre of operations. When dioramas are judged, usually at IPMS (International Plastic Modellers Society) events, considerable weight to giving an award will be given if the creator can show that he, or she, can truly show the model has been properly researched. Having

said all of this, the financial cost of making such dioramas as shown here is relatively low, being just the kit, some after-market detailing sets, paints, glues, sundry materials and perhaps some relatively minor scratch building. There are always parts leftover, so very often you will have much of what you might need for a similar project and mostly these small-scale dioramas can be constructed on a kitchen table. Research is something that can be done almost anywhere and at any time.

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SPECIAL FEATURE

DETAILING Richard Simpson with a guide to taking your models to another level

think we can all agree that modellers in general come with a wide variety of skills, competence and experience, but at whatever level you may find yourself, most of us strive to improve our abilities with each project we attempt. Some, like myself, have come from a wide ranging background which has included plastic modelling, railway layouts, radio controlled aircraft, cars and even doll’s houses, while some may still only have a limited range of experience, but I think that most of us are keen to learn how to do things a bit better if at all possible. Personally I think we could make far more use of crossreferencing experience from other areas of modelling to benefit a project that might not normally be associated with specific skills. As an example, many r/c boat and ship modellers make fantastically competent

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builds exhibiting superb skills from purely a woodworking or a technical aspect, but they might not make the most of possible plastic modelling surface texture and weathering techniques. Equally there may be those modellers who incorporate a great amount of detail in their projects, but don’t always get the practical aspects of ballasting or watertight integrity as good as they could be! Another aspect of modelling for many of us, and which can prove challenging, is simply the time available. Not everyone is retired with unlimited funds and a remote workshop where projects can lay unhindered for many months, or even years, so the time and resources available for the hobby can often be a limiting factor. To this end, I think it is always useful to consider our own ability limitations and then to consider what would

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be a reasonable way of progressing with all the inevitable practical restraints taken into account. As an example, I have limited time for modelling as my job takes me away from home for two thirds of the year. In the remaining third, there are the usual domestic things to do, albeit compressed into four months and hobbies pursued, and I have more than one. My model boating life started with a kit, time being the limiting factor as already mentioned. Not having the time, experience or enthusiasm to make a scratch built hull was a major consideration, and so a kit was the best option. That particular project has so far taken nearly 14 years(!), with house moves and all sorts of other projects between, but the time lapse has enabled me to purchase some decent ready-built models, which have then been enhanced with added detail. The point is, that rather than take on a project that is beyond your abilities or resources, possibly ending with disillusionment and disappointment, start with something that has a lot of the basic work done for you, such as its design, stability and build sequence, but enhance it to a level that gives you the enjoyment and satisfaction you are aspiring to, and this is where an awareness of the possibilities of added-detail start to come into their own. There is nothing wrong with buying a kit, or even a readymade model such as a Graupner Premium Line model, but adding detail will enhance your model making experience.

WHAT CAN ‘DETAILING’ DO FOR US? This gives us the means by which we can achieve a degree of satisfaction and

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4 enjoyment from the hobby without having to go through the trials and tribulations of doing the things that we just don’t enjoy, or even want to do. Some of us don’t like woodwork, so would perhaps be happiest converting a plastic kit to radio control such as this submarine, Photo 1, and some of us would never consider building a plank on frame hull, whether from a kit or scratch build, but we may be fine with a readymade GRP (fibreglass) or plastic vac-formed hull as the model’s starting point. A basic kit may well be just the thing to give us a head start and do away with the tasks that some of us simply don’t enjoy and of course, we do not have to accept the kit supplied parts as given, but can pick and choose what we may wish to enhance and to whatever desired level. There will be some who consider this approach is wasteful as you may end up discarding some of the kit parts, but that is really up to you and in any case, the unwanted fittings can always be used on another future project. The great beauty of a kit is that at one extreme you can build it exactly as intended from the box, or you can use only the major components and scratch build everything else yourself, which perhaps explains the plethora of semi-kits now in the market place. To start us off though, I thought it would be an idea to have a look at some general categories to see what might be possible before combining them into some real examples.

DETAILING TECHNIQUES It is probably fair to say that detailing is one of those areas where there are simply no limits to what you can do. Most techniques

5 are simply created to suit what is required and for me, the process of creating a specific process to do a one-off job is one of the great pleasures of this hobby. Some work better than others, some are reused, some are developed over various variations on a theme, some are a complete disaster and some are nothing more than a personal preference, but there are certainly no rules and not many that can be said to actually be wrong. It is best making test pieces to see just what works (and what doesn’t!) before committing a process to the model, be it lagging a pipe or painting the deck in a special colour. The mantra is therefore to try out something OFF the model before committing to it.

Photo 1. Converting a plastic kit is a very popular means of getting an r/c model on the water, and quickly. Photo 2. Pre-printed plywood overlays are popular with kit manufacturers as they give a real wood finish whilst remaining easy to install. Photo 3. One improvement on a plywood overlay is to use manufactured laminated plank sheeting as the individual planks look much more realistic. Photo 4. Doll’s house wood flooring is another form of manufactured laminated sheeting which can be useful for large scale models. Photo 5. Replacing an overlay with laminated sheet is simple, using the old part as a template.

1) PLANKING This is probably one of the most discussed areas, as everyone seems to have their own preferences on how best to do it, but I would always suggest that you do whatever works for you and are happy with. Many kits are supplied with pre-printed thin plywood overlays with planking detail printed in ink on their surfaces, Photo 2. The problem then revolves around the quality of the inking which can sometimes do with being a bit finer, but the real issue is that the grain of the supplied sheet wood goes across all the planks and can look unrealistic. The only way you are going to get anywhere near a ‘real’ appearance is to use separate individual planks, which means either buying readymade sheet planking or doing it yourself. Readymade sheet planking does not seem to be as readily available in the UK as it is in the United States, but in the global world

we now live, it can be purchased online and shipped to the UK, Photo 3. Larger scale planking is available in the doll’s house world, but its scale may preclude its use for all but the largest model boat. If you can get your hands on some though, it is an excellent way of adding planking detail to our larger scale models, Photo 4. In this example, a sheet of the planking was selected to replace the badly warped original pre-printed plywood sheet on the deck of an Envoy Class tug kit purchased secondhand and which had been poorly stored. The original part was simply marked around itself to create a replacement piece, which was then cut out of this ‘plank’ sheeting and glued to the deck as per the instructions and the difference is clear to see with the new planking looking infinitely more realistic, Photo 5, albeit without marked butt joints – yet! Manufactured plank sheet is a very quick and convenient means of creating neat and

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SPECIAL FEATURE

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realistic planks and can easily enhance models such as this Krick Anna, Photo 6. Laying individual planks requires much more patience and time. Some modellers will include pieces of black paper inserted between the planks to represent the caulking and some paint the edges of the planks with a permanent black marker pen. Much depends on the scale being modelled, but my preference when modelling in 1:35 scale has been to leave a caulking gap between the planks, temporarily created by the insertion of slivers of 0.5mm plasticard, Photo 7. The area of planking is then given a covering of white PVA glue with black powder paint mixed in with it to create a black coloured glue. Once the glue has set, the surface is rubbed-down with sandpaper to give a smooth surface with the black caulking between the planks, Photo 8. Individual planks may also be used in other locations such as on the bridge sides or hatch boards. Both these are usually supplied in kits as pre-printed plywood sheeting, but can be significantly improved with separate planks.

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In the case of the bridge sides, the planks can be individually placed together with the edges lightly dragged over some fine sandpaper to produce a tongue and grooved effect, Photo 9. These hatch boards in Photo 10, are individually cut planks with hand holes drilled through them and a backing glued over the holes. To finish off, handles will be added across the holes simulated from a piece of styrene stock rod glued to the hole. The overall effect is rather more realistic than a sheet of plywood glued to the hatch to simulate the boards.

2) RIGGING The techniques you adopt for rigging depend on the scale you are modelling, however there are one or two common considerations. Most kits will supply some form of cord of an appropriate size to suit the scale, but they generally fail to take into consideration the fact that rigging will be in different diameters as well as of completely different material, depending on its use.

Model Boats Winter issue www.modelboats.co.uk

The first consideration is what to use for your rigging and this is where a good search of the model suppliers should result in some much more scale looking alternatives than the basic cotton that is often supplied in a kit. A range of diameters is well worth having to hand, as well as some being dark and light coloured, and perhaps even some scale steel wire, Photo 11. It is possible to obtain scale steel wire and for this it is worth looking at the model armour suppliers, but removing the copper core from fine cabling and tightening the twist in a battery drill is an alternative, although the colour will need to be painted. Other useful rigging supplies to stock up with are running blocks, shackles, bottle screws and heat shrink tubing. Many of these are available from UK and Eastern European modelling suppliers and it is well worth having a stock for future use, Photo 12. As a very general guide, standing rigging such as the shrouds, braces, stays and ratlines will be black, as a result of them being coated with tar, tallow or just painted.

9 12 Photo 6. Fitting some planking sheet is a quick and easy means of adding detail to what would otherwise be a quite plain expanse of plywood, and makes this Anna far more attractive. Photo 7. In 1:35 scale, a gap of 0.5mm is appropriate for deck planking so inserting plasticard between the planks leaves a neat and consistent gap. Photo 8. Piping in a mix of black powder paint and PVA glue makes suitable caulking, which looks very effective when sanded down to a smooth surface. Photo 9. Pre-printed overlays on bridge sides can be replaced with individual planking with the outside edges slightly chamfered to create the tongue and groove effect. Photo 10. Hatch boards are usually supplied as overlays in kits, so individual planks were fitted with the hand holes drilled out and the opening backed with a styrene plate.

11 Some may well be steel, but will also likely be greased and/or tarred, so painting in a dark colour would generally be appropriate. As a rule, the greater the load the rigging is taking, the larger the diameter, but in some scales the difference may not be noticeable and using a single diameter may be adequate. If in doubt, go thinner rather than thicker is a good motto. The connections between the various parts of rigging are useful to note and references online or in relevant books are well worth pursuing. Most standing rigging will incorporate some form of tensioning device such as a bottle screw and the rope or wire could typically be connected to it by a shackle. The rope (or wire) will usually be spliced into a loop and the splice will then be either bound with whipping, in the case of rope, or held by a crimped sleeve in the case of wire. Looping the scale rope or wire through a piece of heat shrink or a small piece of copper tube works well before adding a spot of superglue and shrinking the

Photo 11. There are many and varied types of rigging cord available in varying colours and diameters, plus a wide range of wire to give the modeller access to realistic scale rope and steel hawser. Photo 12. A wide range of rigging accessories are available from UK suppliers to assist the modeller.

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SPECIAL FEATURE

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14 Photo 13. Use reference books and perhaps visit museum and period ships to see examples of typical standing rigging arrangements. Off the shelf items can then be assembled together to create accurate scale representations on your models. Photo 14. A typical combination of standing rigging for the lamp guides and running rigging for lifting and lowering can clearly be seen here. Please note that the running rigging is in a continuous loop and has been tied off on the cleat exactly as it would be in real life. Photo 15. Whipping was taught to me by sailors when I first went to sea and is an incredibly simple yet effective means of creating a scale looped end. It makes for very realistic tow ropes as well as mooring ropes on larger scale models.

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heat shrink or crimping the tube. This gives a decent enough representation of a looped rope connection, certainly in larger scales. If this is connected to a shackle and a bottle screw you should end up with a fairly good scale representation of a piece of standing rigging, Photo 13. Running rigging is generally of hemp rope and is a light tan colour. Different diameters may well be more noticeable with this, and scale rope can be obtained in a wide range of thicknesses. By far the best scale looking will actually unravel when cut, so it must first be prepared with a spot of superglue before cutting and then somehow marking the point where to cut. You will soon know if you get it wrong as it will immediately start to unravel once cut! Running rigging can be threaded through blocks in the same way

Model Boats Winter issue www.modelboats.co.uk

as the real items and anchored in a loop just like the standing rigging, Photo 14. For models with a large rope such as a 1:48 scale tug’s main towing hawser, the looped ends can be created by whipping with cotton to give a very realistic looking spliced and whipped loop, Photo 15. Smaller scales or much smaller ropes, e.g. standing rigging, can be made by looping the end through a small piece of heat shrink, adding a spot of superglue and heating the heat shrink to fit tightly. This can then easily be considered as a leather cover rather than a whipped splice, often traditionally used to protect spliced joints in ropes. Using a number of different types of rigging to simulate the different ropes found on board a ship will greatly enhance the model and make it look much more realistic. An understanding of the different types of rope used onboard,

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18 Photo 16. Combining more than one technique will really add realism. Here, standing and running rigging have been sympathetically added for a realistic overall effect, and for little effort. Photo 17. Kit supplied parts do the job very well and when painted appropriately can produce effective and realistic fittings on your model. However, they are often manufactured to a price, and therefore provide an opportunity for super-detailing. Photo 18. A cast resin boat fitted with a planked foredeck and oars, mast and a couple of canvas items looks totally different from a standard kit item, although more work is still required. Photo 19. A white metal and photo etched kit of a bicycle adds a human factor to the deck.

19 and why, will greatly help and visits to real ships and museums will assist with your understanding of how rigging is applied to traditional vessels, Photo 16.

3) RESIN AND PLASTIC PARTS Resin and plastic parts can assist by avoiding some of the more tedious scratch building processes that you may rather avoid. There will usually be many areas of a standard kit that can benefit from either replacing a provided part with a plastic or resin counterpart, or by adding detail to the existing model components. In some cases, a combination of both will give extremely realistic results. A good example of using resin may be the replacement of a kit supplied vac-formed ship’s boat with a resin cast example. Photo 17

is a basic kit supplied vac-formed lifeboat found in many kits with a canvas cover. Using this is fine, but there is an opportunity to fill the hull with detail. Replacement resin boats are available in a wide range of scales and configurations, so there is a good chance of being able to find a suitable replacement and even if not exactly the right size, it may well be ‘near enough’. There is a huge range of accessories such as stores, tools and equipment for use on model dioramas that can be used for our model boats. In other words, there is much in the military, train and model vehicle worlds that can useful to us. In Photo 18, the replacement boat under construction is already a world apart from the original, but will be even more so when its remaining parts are added and a suitable paint job applied. The various resin and plastic items designed

for armour dioramas are a great resource, their often being in 1:15, 1:24, 1:35, 1:48, 1:76 and smaller scales. Don’t forget that there will always be plenty of spare ropes and rigging related equipment in evidence on ships as well. As an example of this, I learned through reading that the crews of old steam coasters, operating around the UK long before the days of standardised working conditions were introduced, would be responsible for feeding themselves. This would usually involve travelling to the nearest farm, from whatever port the ship was in, to buy basic foodstuffs. With time at a premium, this was regularly done with a bicycle, so very frequently a push bike was stored somewhere on the ship and this little multimedia kit of a push bike in 1:35 scale adds a human factor to the deck of Ben Ain, Photo 19.

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SPECIAL FEATURE Photo 20. A wooden hull, in this case double planked and covered with Litho plate, pre-formed with impressed rivet detail, makes extremely effective and realistic hull plating.

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Photo 21. Thin metal plate is having the rivet detail added by rolling a pounce wheel along the edge of a steel rule. The line of rivets created can be cut away with a pair of scissors to give you plate joints or two lines of rivets to make butt straps. Photo 22. A decent paint job can be done to give you a factory finished model or a weathered and well-worn ship as seen on some tugs and work boats, but it can also be over-done, so be careful!

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4) PHOTO ETCHED BRASS AND THIN PLATE The use of these materials in plastic models has been common for many years, but it isn’t quite as widely used in our r/c model boat world, at least not just yet. One factor perhaps is that it is not as robust as we may like for functioning models so can easily be damaged, but if used in appropriate places and a degree of care is taken when handling the model, there is no reason why we cannot use it more widely. Some established uses are with third party sourced weapons, their being used to replace or enhance an existing kit supplied item, where the photo etched brass (PE), is used for the gun sights and other small parts. More commonly, PE handrails, either as pre-prepared lengths or individual stanchions are readily available in various scales. Some kit manufacturers offer ‘add-on’ optional detail packs and in the plastic model world, numerous suppliers offer after-market accessory packs, such as those for the superb Trumpeter battleship kits. Thin metal sheet has useful applications. Some modellers use Litho plate with the rivet detail impressed into it as hull plating to great effect, Photo 20, and riveted butt straps and plate joints are easy enough to reproduce, Photo 21. Thin metal plate is an extremely versatile material, but its real advantage is its ability to retain its shape (and stability) when deformed. Brass sheet can be purchased as what used to be known as Shim Brass in a wide range of thicknesses from engineering suppliers with the thicknesses used for model making easily being cut with a pair of scissors. Litho Plate is a usually found as a waste product from offset litho printers.

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5) PAINTING There really is no doubt that a paint job can make or break a model, irrespective of whatever build quality may have been achieved, so more than with any other technique, pre-planning of this process is essential. Some may want to build a model straight from the box and paint it as though it has just left the shipyard and others may want to weather the model to such a degree that it becomes almost unrecognisable as the original vessel, Photo 22. The key thing though is to make all the painting decisions early on with the project, as these may have later unexpected consequences. Assuming you want to create an exact miniature of the real vessel, for me at least, the first two main considerations are: a To study as many period pictures as possible of either vessel in question or others of similar use and age. b Understand the effect of ‘scale’. Studying pictures cannot be emphasised too much to give you an idea of just how things get worn and how they then look. It is so much easier then to recreate worn machinery, floor plates, paintwork and finishes etc. Rust is something that requires a great deal of study before committing it to a model, in particular how it is formed in real life and consequently how it should be recreated on your new masterpiece. A pool of rusty water on a deck would leave a circular puddle shaped stain with concentric marks, but a rust stain on the hull will leave vertical streaks and usually start where the paint coat has been compromised, such as at scupper openings and around chipped paint areas.

Model Boats Winter issue www.modelboats.co.uk

Photo 23. Weathering and paint effects are best created in layers to achieve the best level of realism. Scale as such is also something that is often misunderstood and is regularly not even considered when we look at paint finishes. A real vessel may be painted with a full gloss white paint, but when looked at in 1:48 scale, using the same finish will give a very unrealistic level of gloss and may make the model appear to be quite ‘toy like’. So, weathering should be according to the scale with such aspects as rust on a hull taking all of this into account. A large scale model such as a 1:32 tug would be more noticeably ‘rusted’ than a 1:200 scale warship where the hull rust would be very much finer and far less noticeable. Scale also plays a big part in your paint considerations when we consider colour, as by a very general rule of thumb, colours tend to be less saturated when viewed from a distance, so models should reflect this to look realistic. As an example, bright yellow hazard warning signs may well need toning down with washes or filters to give a better representation on a model. Just a final thought with paint. If it is a realistic finish you are looking for, a great way to go about your research is to think about how the real life finish was created in the first place, so let’s take a steam coaster hull as an example. If you finish it with a spray aerosol ‘rattle’ can to get a perfect finish, then decide you want to weather it, you will not achieve the best you can by a long way. Real hulls are often never sprayed, as they are frequently brush painted. Consequently, painting such a hull with a flat brush of something approximating to the scale size of a real large paint brush will help generate a more interesting textured finish. Hulls are rarely painted all in one go, even in dry dock, so invariably the paint you are looking at will have varying degrees of

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25 wear, weathering, sun bleaching and even variations in colour tone. Taking scale effect into the colour, I would use a very dark grey base and vary it slightly by adding spots of light grey and black as it is being painted. Mix the base colour with a combination of matt and satin paint so the surface textures will vary slightly across the hull. When rust effects are later applied over all this in conjunction with some fading filters, the overall effect is very much more realistic than simply overpainting a sprayed gloss hull, Photo 23.

6) FIGURES These seem to be one of the most contested and frequently discussed subjects at the pondside. Some of us love them and couldn’t imagine a model without them, and some hate them. I fall into the first category, but over the years have learned a few interesting aspects of figures that have greatly helped me achieve something I have been pleased with and that may be worth considering. First, there are many modellers who avoid figures for no other reason than they hate painting them, particularly bare flesh and eyes. To help with this problem, I would suggest that you consider what the size of a human face would be in 1:35 scale and somewhere in the region of 8mm would not be too far wrong. Now have a look at photographs in books and magazines etc. and find as many pictures as you can where the face is around 8mm high. In how many of them can you see the eyes? I would suggest very few, and possibly, none at all. So why are we scared of painting eyes on 1:35 scale figures when they cannot be seen? The face can be painted to a very respectable representation with not much more than highlights and shadows picked out with a shading for the face stubble and hair, Photo 24. Larger scales may well merit the eyes being painted, but I would avoid making them too large and again, bearing in mind the effects of scale, the whites of an eye in 1:12 scale should not be white, as they should be a very light grey. The bottom line though

is not to be afraid and have a go. If you use a nice thin paint such as acrylic, you can easily spray a primer over it again and have another go without losing any detail, but with a little confidence and an understanding of the effects of scale you might surprise yourself. Another aspect of figures that can trip us up, is just how they look on a model as regards their poses. A figure that is in an action pose never really seems to look right as every time you look at it, all you see is the same frozen moment in time. The guy running down the deck will always be running down the deck in the same spot, which somehow doesn’t seem to work for me. If he is sat down fixing something or chatting to the guy next to him, that seems to be far more realistic as he could still be doing that ten minutes later when you see him again, Photo 25. With figures it can be simply looking for opportunities, creating the scene and painting them within your capabilities and you may well surprise yourself at just how effective they can look, and for very little effort.

7) IMAGINATION? This is an interesting area to consider and from conversations had over the years, one that does not seem to get the consideration it deserves. By ‘imagination’ I refer to the fact that you use this to create detail in objects and finishes that you may not have previously considered. Working all my life on ships has given me an advantage with this as I can see that bit easier what a scene may incorporate, but for those who have not had that advantage, reference to period books and pictures really can be invaluable as well as visiting period ships and museums. When building a model, it is as important to understand the way of life on board as it is for understanding what the fittings are for, and actually do, as well as why they are there. To help with this, please read books that are about life on board, whether it be a warship, coaster, 24 fishing boat or whatever craft you

Photo 24. Many modellers are put off using figures because of the challenge of painting them. This Captain in 1:35 scale has been painted with nothing more than dry brushing highlights and washes in the shadows to give a pleasing result. Don’t attempt the eyes at even this scale, as you would not see them anyway. Photo 25. Figures in a natural static pose look more realistic than those frozen in time. A couple of crew members involved in conversation works better than a guy running along the deck, which looks odd when he is still doing it ten minutes later! Photo 26. Studying period pictures and exhibits in maritime museums will give you a feel for how things wear and deteriorate when in use. Modern cruise ships may well be significantly better maintained than a 1940’s coastal steamer so the paint job should reflect this.

are interested in. For example, the crews of steam coasters generally lived in the bow section of such a vessel. They cooked and cleaned for themselves in the foc’s’le and lived there when not working. Consequently, it would not be unusual in port to see laundry hanging out to dry. Maintenance would be of a very basic nature as running costs were kept to an absolute minimum, so painting would be done on an ad-hoc basis, usually with the crudest of implements. As a result of this, machinery could look well used, so worn handles, chipped paint and rust should all be in evidence on a large scale model, Photo 26, and the evidence of such maintenance like buckets of paint and tubs of grease may well also be seen. Rope was certainly never wasted and old cordage was saved until required for repairs to existing ropes. Crew members’ mending ropes would be a very common sight as are fishermen mending nets. Imagination plays a big part in how weathering is added to a model in areas where wear and tear would take place. Deck plating will wear in locations of high traffic, so at door entrances and stairways this would be common. Paint and surface texture will be worn away, together with the paint on handrails and door handles. Rubbing floor plating with fine wet and dry sandpaper after painting will simulate a worn surface and this is surprisingly effective and should create

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Photo 27. Looking for opportunities to improve the detail using scrap bits and pieces is really where one’s imagination comes into it all. All the replacement parts here are from the scrap box, yet have been used to create a much more realistic cylinder assembly. Photo 28. The valve chests are blocks of wood; valve chest cover screws are plastic aftermarket parts, and the valve rods and connecting rods are handrail stanchions. Photo 29. Although perfectly acceptable, kit provided parts such as these white metal ladders, may require a significant amount of fettling to achieve what you want. Photo 30. These ladders are made of stock wood strip pieces cut and glued together and somewhat better than a white metal casting. Photo 31. Here, a boat cover has been put together which does actually fit the boat, but when folded it will look to be an appropriate size and shape.

30 positive comment from your peers. You should also consider (imagine) what detail may need to be added to various kit supplied parts to enhance them and make that item more individual. Kit supplied parts are usually produced to a price and can often be improved with a bit of detail that can then be further enhanced by the paint job. Studying plans will be a great help with this and perhaps obtaining more detailed drawings can also help. Sometimes the replacement of poorly cast white metal parts may be beneficial if you can replace them with something more clearly defined and realistic. As an example, this cylinder for a cargo winch looks much more credible with bright steel rods, guides and brass crossheads, than it would have done with the original casting, even if cleaned and painted, Photo 27. When such techniques are combined

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with the addition of bolt heads and additional valve chests and rods, the overall effect starts to look more credible, Photo 28. Another good example is the replacement of heavily cast white metal ladders with wooden items to give a far more regular and crisp look, Photos 29 and 30. So look for opportunities to use your imagination to see where detail can be added and/or improved and how a particular area may well look in real life.

8) CANVAS This seems to be a material a bit like rope, in so far as there always seems to be a lot of it on many ships, even nowadays. Whether it is used to protect deck equipment, cover lifeboats, for deck awnings, over hatches or heaven forbid, even as a sail(!), it will be

Model Boats Winter issue www.modelboats.co.uk

31 somewhere onboard. This is one particular area that frequently falls foul of a lack of appreciation of the effect of scale. Generally, in my modest opinion, anything smaller than 1:35 scale simply would not have a noticeable surface texture and using materials like linen, paper or even soft tissue when all painted, gives a surface texture far in excess of what would be seen in reality. On the other hand, many kit supplied parts are invariably smooth in finish with no creases or folds, and so tend to look unrealistic no matter how well painted you make them. After many experiments and trial pieces, I came to the conclusion that in 1:35 scale or smaller, aluminium foil will give the best representation of canvas. The great advantage is that it can be folded and it will remain in exactly the position you leave it, so it can be very effectively ‘moulded’ to have creases and folds just like the real thing. Its paint job can then be used to bring out the highlights and the shadows using similar techniques to figure painting. Always start with a piece cut to approx. the scale dimensions of the prototype and then fold it in much the same way as the real one would be folded, Photo 31. The resultant part should then realistically represent the original piece of canvas, and can even be moulded to fit where

Photo 32. Once draped in the bottom of this ship’s boat the overall effect of this folded canvas cover is quite convincing. Photo 33. Thin metal foil really shows its effectiveness when you make complex canvas shapes with it such as this bridge dodger. Because it maintains its shape perfectly when formed it is a very versatile modelling material and will maintain its shape.

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34

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it falls over fittings and objects, Photo 32 (painted green). One particularly pleasing result was the bridge canvas dodger on Ben Ain, made from aluminium foil and then folded to represent areas that were hung as a wind breaker and sections that had been lowered for visibility, Photo 33. The type of foil used is the type used in air conditioning ducting, supplied on a roll with a strong adhesive backing. You will have to first remove the adhesive with a strong solvent and then possibly have to join lengths to create wider sheets with a run of thin superglue along the edge.

9) SCRATCH BUILDING As a final thought on all this, a mention of the possibilities of scratch building would be worthwhile. This may be off-putting to some, but with a bit of imagination (that word again)

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Photo 34. When all other avenues are exhausted, scratch building may be the only way you can create the bespoke parts you need as with this cylindrical tank. Photo 35. Scratch building allows you to combine all the techniques we have seen. This boat is a combination of scratch building, imagination, a decent paint job and some of the original kit supplied parts.

may help us to overcome the fears. For me the key to scratch building has always been with the idea that we need to see just how something can be built. Complex parts must be broken down into simple shapes that we can then source from whatever we have available, and an open mind will be needed as we look for the bits and pieces needed. As an example, the aft water container on Ben Ain is shown in the kit drawing and reproduced on many completed models as a rectangular tank. It would appear though from the original builder’s drawings that the tank was cylindrical, so I decided to make one from scratch. All I needed was a cylindrical shape of just the right diameter for the base part of this fitting. After a good deal of searching around the garage, a broom handle of exactly the correct diameter was found, something that is now 40mm shorter than previously. Holding down straps were

made from thin strips of brass sheet held with hex headed brass BA set screws and a vent, filling cap and outlet pipe added from scrap bits of pipe and brass fittings, ending with a credible cylindrical water tank, all purely from bits and pieces, Photo 34. The cylinders on the previously mentioned winch were all built from scraps of metal with the only machining being the drilling of a few holes and sourcing the various bits and pieces of metal from the scrap box. Scratch building can open up a huge number of possibilities for any model, so if you can overcome the initial trepidation and feel confident to ‘have a go’, the rewards are well worth it. When you become more confident, challenging mini-projects such as scratch building the ship’s boats can be attempted, Photo 35. In summary therefore for this section, these are just a few examples of the techniques available to us to enhance and detail our models and make them stand out from a basic ex-box kit.

DETAILING EXAMPLES It is worthwhile having a look at a couple of examples of what can be achieved and possibly inspire one or two of you to have a go at detailing, the Mountfleet Models Ben Ain kit being something that has turned out particularly well. This kit matched my requirements when purchased in 2003 as the hull is GRP and all the remaining parts of the kit come in the box, bar the usual motor, r/c, paints and glues etc. It will build into a very attractive Irish Sea raised quarter deck coaster, with as many of the aspects of the model enhanced having a positive appeal, one aspect crying out for super-detailing being the ship’s boats. Both of them are supplied as decent GRP mouldings with external clinker detail, albeit with a rough strand texture on their insides. If building (from the box), one would line the inside with wood and detail it as for an open boat, or simply fit the hull with a canvas cover to make a very presentable and typical stowed lifeboat. For me though, ship’s boats

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38 Photo 36. It is always worth considering how things are made in real life. The easiest and most effective way to scratch build a clinker built boat is to do it in much the same way as full-size. Photo 37. A model within a model? When installed on your coaster, this transforms the look of the boat deck. Photo 38. Occasionally it can be easier to make something totally from scratch rather than use a supplied moulding, to achieve the desired result.

39 are one significant part of a model that cry out for cramming as much detail into them as possible. I eventually came to the conclusion that the two boats were such a feature that they merited 100% scratch building. Both were made on a jig, as you would with a real clinker boat, with one being made with a flat transom and the lifeboat being made double ended with a rudder, Photo 36. Once the clinker hulls were complete, thwarts, ribs and flooring were made and added, the amount of detail being limited only by the imagination. The lifeboat was kitted out with typical stores, oars, mast, sails and a folded canvas cover while the ship’s boat was kitted out with other bits and pieces that might typically be found in one of that period, again oars and canvas covers being just two of them, Photo 37. The lifeboat had a rudder and grab ropes fitted as well as a couple of righting skids on the lower hull. These parts were supplied with the kit, so maybe are not totally 100% scratch built. With a full set of rope work and rigging added, with blocks on the davits and lifting points in the boats, the completed craft looks infinitely better than basic GRP versions with a canvas covers. Another good example comes from the same model and this is the accommodation block on the quarter deck. This is supplied in the kit as a GRP moulding, but there were

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one or two aspects with which I wasn’t happy. One was the fact that it would be extremely difficult to get the lower edge perfectly sat on the deck without a gap all around it as the only way to fit it was to file down the lower edge of the GRP bulkheads. Another problem was the fact that the top deck of it did not incorporate a camber, an aspect that gives the distinctive look so typical of these coasters. The final consideration was the fact that the scribed lines for the vertical plate edges were perpendicular to the GRP part. With the unit mounted at an angle on the hull, these plate edges then appeared angled rather than at right angles to the waterline, which simply did not look right, at least for me. The solution was to totally scratch build a replacement unit, but in wood. This enabled the lower edge to be perfectly matched to the deck; the plate edges could be correctly vertical; and the top deck could incorporate a suitable camber to match that of the bridge deck, Photo 38, and here it is complete in Photo 39. The little cameo scene on top of the accommodation includes some of what we have talked about previously. Added to the internals of the two ship’s boats, this whole area takes on an ‘atmosphere’ which hopefully portrays life at sea on these vessels accurately. The last example from the same model is

Model Boats Winter issue www.modelboats.co.uk

Photo 39. This shows how using a combination of kit supplied parts, your imagination and building skills, something very different from an ex-box built kit can result.

worth just a quick look, which in this case are the bridge internals. If built directly from the kit, the supplied internals basically consisted of a wooden block with a ship’s wheel attached to the front of it and a white metal cast floor grating, so it was fitted out with additional period detailing to bring it all to life. Using a plan found in a C. V. Waine book as a guide, a small chart table flag locker and shelf were made, Photo 40. It was then finished with a simulated staircase down to the accommodation, some period charts, flags, a couple of mugs of tea and a working tilly lamp as well as making the most of everything with a careful paint job and some appropriate weathering in the right areas, Photo 41. There was (is) nothing wrong with the kit supplied parts, but for next to zero cost and some imagination Ben Ain now stands out from the crowd. The final example of this is the modification of a popular kit by Stan Reffin. He took a standard Robbe Schutze minesweeper kit and added a considerable amount of additional detail using a combination of the aforementioned techniques. This

40

41

Photo 40. Simple enhancements to the bridge make all the difference. Photo 41. When completed, the bridge internals look 100% realistic. Photo 42. A combination of all the techniques described in this article have been used by Stan Reffin to take this Robbe Schutze kit to a completely different level. Photo 43: The aft deck of this Robbe Schutze minesweeper kit now has life and realism about it all.

started with scratch building a replacement superstructure from styrene sheet and adding further detail to the deck and bridge areas, Photo 42. A new mast was constructed from brass rod; figures added; and a great number of scratch built additional details manufactured, particularly on the aft deck area, Photo 43. The main winch was replaced with a scratch built unit, the forward gun was replaced by an aftermarket replacement,

42 albeit further enhanced with extra detail and a careful paint job brought the model to life. Such levels of additional detailing may be considered by some as extreme and while, like Ben Ain, the kit can be made into a perfectly respectable model ex-box, the addition of extra detailing really can make a significant difference to the overall final appearance.

CONCLUSION

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There is a wide range of skill levels amongst us, and we can all do what we enjoy, and at a level, from which we get personal satisfaction. For me the most enjoyable aspect of modelling is adding the detail and really bringing a model to life, and that is something that may be ongoing even after the model is ready for pond service. I hope this article has inspired one or two of you to have a go at enhancing your models with the addition of a bit of extra detail, something I think you will genuinely find very rewarding. Enjoy your hobby – Richard Simpson,

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Marie Felling Twin Screw Steam Tug

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FREE UK SHIPPING ON ORDERS OVER £150 WE STOCK A WIDE RANGE OF RADIO CONTROL AND STATIC DISPLAY K ITS, FITTINGS, TOOLS & PLANS. SECURE ONLINE SHOPPING AND MAIL ORDER SERVICE Imara - Single Screw / Twin Screw Steam £612.00 Joffre - Tyne Tug £332.00 Marie Felling - Single Screw/ Twin Screw £521.00 Milford Star - Side Trawler £307.00 Motor Fifie “Amaranth” - Herring Drifter £156.00 North Light - Steam Clyde Puffer £332.00 Resolve - Twin Screw Naval £669.00 Schaarhorn - Steam Yacht £441.00 Sir Kay Round Table Class Minesweeper £393.00 SS Talacre - Single Hatch Coaster £334.00 Caldercraft Heritage Series HMAV Bounty 1789 1:64 £241.99 HM Bark Endeavour 1768 1:64 £288.95 The Mary Rose 1510 Tudor Warship £311.95 Caldercraft Nelsons Navy static HMS Agamemnon 1781 £792.95 HMAV Bounty 1789 £241.99 HM Brig Badger 1778 £210.95 HM Schooner Ballahoo 1804 £74.95 HM Yacht Chatham 1741 £105.95 HM Mortar Vessel Convulsion 1804 £114.95 HMS Cruiser 1797 1:64 Scale £246.95 HMS Diana 1794 1:64 Scale £564.95 HM Bark Endeavour 1768 1:64 Scale £288.95 HM Bomb Vessel Granado 1756 £262.99 HMS Jalouse 1794 1:64 Scale £268.99 HMS Mars 1:64 Scale £241.99 The Mary Rose 1510 Tudor Warship £311.95 HM Schooner Pickle 1778 1:64 Scale £154.99 HM Cutter Sherbourne 1763 1:64 Scale £89.95 HMS Snake 1797 1:64 Scale £246.95 HM Brig Supply 1759 1:64 Scale £174.95 HMS Victory 1781 1:72 Scale £892.00 HM Gunboat William 1795 1:32 Scale £236.95 Constructo Static Display Kits America, Schooner 1851 £99.73 Carmen 1850 1:80 Scale £74.95 Cutty Sark Tea Clipper 1:115 Scale £176.34 Endeavour 1:60 Scale £193.22 Gjoa - Amundsen Expedition Ship £79.94 HMS Prince 1670 £356.39 HMS Victory 1:94 Scale £326.95 Louise Steam Launch 1:26 Scale £80.99 Robert E. Lee 1:48 Scale £167.57 Corel Static Display Kits Amphion 18th Century Swedish Yacht £188.00 Dolphyn, Dutch Privateer 1750 £180.00 Flying Fish 1:50 Scale £144.00 Half Moon 17th Century Galleon £166.00 HM Endeavour Bark 1768 £196.00 HMS Bellona 74 Gun Ship £302.00 HMS Greyhound 20 Gun Frigate £127.00 HMS Peregrine, English 6th Rate £79.00 HMS Unicorn. 18th Century Frigate £205.00 HMS Victory 1:98 Scale £317.00 HMS Victory Cross Section £99.00 Le Mirage 84 Gun First Rate Ship £370.00 Llaut Spanish Fishing Boat £60.00

Dumas Radio Controlled American Beauty Mississippi River Towboat £236.00 Akula Russian Nuclear Attack Submarine £189.00 Big Swamp Buggy Airboat Kit #1505 £140.00 Chris-Craft 24’ Mahogany Runabout 1930 £387.00 Chris-Craft Commander Express Cruiser £353.00 Jersey City Tugboat £330.00 Miss Circus Circus £406.00 PT-109 US Navy Boat £184.00 Trojan F-31 Motor Yacht £170.00 US Coastguard 36500 36’ Lifeboat £203.00 U.S.S. Crockett £193.00 Huson 24 Sailboat £134.00 Euromodel Como Static Ajax 18th Century European Frigate £518.95 Derfflinger 17th Century Felucca £260.95 La Renommee 18th Century French Frigate £602.95 Lyde 18th Century Schooner 1:70 Scale £296.95 Mordaunt 17th Century 4th Rate English Ship£579.95 Joysway Joysway Blue Mania Brushless ARTR £164.90 Joysway Mad Flow F1 Brushless ARTR £165.95 Joysway Super Mono X2 B/less 2.4GHz £103.49 Joysway Sea Fire Super Brushless RTR £179.99 Joysway Dragonforce Yacht V5 RTR £155.00 Joysway Focus II 1-Metre £237.49 Joysway Orion Yacht RTR £91.99 Joysway Dragon Force 65 V6 Yacht RTR £236.99 Krick Kits Suitable for Electric Power Alexandra Steam Launch with Fittings £330.00 Felix Hamburg Harbour Launch £100.99 Grimmershorn Motor Vessel £273.00 Lisa M Motor Yacht £119.99 Nordstrand Trawler Yacht £180.00 Victoria Steam River Launch with Fittings £387.00 Mantua & Panart Suitable for RC Anteo Harbour Tug 1:30 £329.00 Bruma Open Cruiser Yacht 1:43 £165.00 Mincio Freelance Mahogany Runabout 1:20 £98.00 RMS Titanic Complete Kit 1:200 £845.00 Venetian Passenger Motor Boat 1:28 £230.00 Mantua Static Display Kits Albatros. US Coastguard Clipper £110.00 Amerigo Vespucci. Italian Navy 1.150 £296.00 Astrolabe. French Sloop £197.00 Black Falcon. 18th Century Brig £93.00 Golden Star. English Brig £77.00 Gorch Fock. German Sail Training Ship £265.00 HMS Victory. Nelson’s Flagship 1.200 £103.00 Kon-Tiki 1:8 Scale £132.00 Le Superbe. 74 Gun French Fighting Ship £322.00 Mercator. Belgian Sail Training Ship £145.00 Santa Maria. Flagship of Columbus £156.00 Model Shipways Static Display Kits Benjamin Latham 1:48 Scale £242.95 Bluenose, Canadian Fishing Schooner £170.95 Chaperon, Sternwheel Steam £242.95 Emma C. Berry, Lobster Smack £116.95 Fair American, 14-Gun Privateer, £179.95

AEROKITS, AERONAUT, AMATI, BILLING BOATS, CALDERCRAFT, DUMAS, COREL, GRAUPNER, PANART, KRICK, MAMOLI, MANTUA, OCCRE, SERGAL New Maquettes Radio Controlled Akragas, 25 Metre Tug 1:30 £255.00 Asterix II Stern Trawler / Lobster Boat £129.00 La Jocelyne, 300 Tonne Barge £258.00 Le Marignan, 30 Metre Trawler £259.99 Marie Ange, Coastal Fishing Trawler £174.00 Le Marsouin, Trawler 1:30 £240.00 Marie Morgane, Breton Lobster Boat £85.00 Le Patrick , Sardine Fishing Boat £139.99 V.L.M. Missile Launching £288.00 Occre Static Display Models Albatros Schooner 1:100 Scale £89.95 Aurora Brig 1:65 Scale £129.95 Bounty with Cutaway Hull Section £245.00 Buccaneer 1:100 Scale £89.95 Calella Light Boat 1:15 Scale £43.94 Corsair Brig 1:80 Scale £144.95 Diana Frigate 1792 1:85 Scale £225.00 Endeavour 1:54 Scale £239.95 Golden Hind 1:85 Scale £89.95 Gorch Fock 1:95 Scale £334.99 HMS Revenge 1:85 Scale £144.95 Mississippi Paddle Steamer £179.95 Palamos Fishing Boat 1:45 Scale £69.95 San Ildefonso 1:70 Scale £395.00 San Marcos Spanish Galleon £225.95 Santisima Trinidad £369.95 Santisima Trinidad Cross Section £125.00 Ulises Ocean Going Steam £195.00 Panart Static Display Kits Amerigo Vespucci. Italian £670.00 Anteo Harbour Tug 1:30 £329.00 HMS Victory Bow Section £173.00 Lynx. Baltimore Schooner £133.00 Royal Caroline 1749 £265.00 San Felipe Spanish 104 Gun Man of War £583.00 Section Deck Between Gun deck £130.00 Sergal Static Display Kits Achilles. American Pilot Cutter £77.00 Dutch Whaler “Baleniera Olandese £269.00 Cutty Sark Tea Clipper £358.00 HMS Bounty 1787 1:60 £174.00 HMS Jamaica 14 Gun Sloop £133.00 HMS Peregrine Galley “Runner Class” £182.00 Mississippi River Steamboat £356.00 Soleil Royale £715.00 Sovereign of the Seas £715.00 Thermopylae. Tea Clipper £73.99 Thunder Tiger Avanti ARTR Brushless Powerboat £189.95 Madcat Jr. ARTR £198.95 Atlantic Motor Yacht ARTR £194.99 Naulantia 1M Yacht £149.99 Victoria II £119.99 Volans Trimaran £224.99 Voyager III 1M Cup Yacht £135.95 New Shipyard Paper Models New Shipyard Laser Cut Card Models Please ask for details

All prices correct at time of going to press

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