patagonia vertical

About the book The dramatic Chalten Massif in southern Patagonia, Argentina, is home to some of the most iconic peaks in the world, including Cerro FitzRoy and Cerro Torre. This ultimate alpine playground seduces climbers from every continent.

The steep walls of these jagged spires range from 300 to 1500 meters tall, and from enjoyable day climbs to unrepeated horror shows. The massif also has countless classic alpine mountaineering objectives involving snow, ice-climbing and scrambling. This climbing guidebook describes every peak and climb in the area. Although Chalten is not the faraway land it once was, the beauty of the peaks, the quality of the rock and the ferocity of the storms remain unchanged, offering climbers the timeless pursuit of real adventures and lasting memories. About the authors Rolando Garibotti grew up in Bariloche, Argentina, and first visited the Chalten Massif in 1986 when, aged 15, he climbed Aguja Guillaumet. At the time El Chalten had a single, empty house . Since then he has climbed in the area relentlessly, and resides there during the summer months . His finest ascents in the region include the first complete ascent of the north face of Fitz Roy in 1996, the first ascent of Cerro Torre from the north in 2005, and the first ascent of the Torre Traverse in 2008 .

Do rte Pietron first climbed in the area in 2008. In a short time she cli mbed Fitz Roy fo ur t imes, including the second female team ascent of the peak via t he lengthy Afanassieff route, and the third ascent of Ensueiio. Sh e has climbed Cerro Torre twice, including the first fema le ascent of the Ragni route. She grew up in Heidelberg, Germany, and received a degree in physics before becoming a mount ain guide. She is head coach of the German Alpine Club's female young alpinists team.

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PATAGONIA VERTICAL Chalten Massif Authors

ROLANDO GARIBOTTI DORTE PIETRON

Topos

DORTE PIETRON

Editor

LINDSAY GRIFFIN

Cartography

LOJZE MIKLAVCIC

Layout Published by

)ANEZ SKoK SmARTA, LJUBLJANA, 2012 www.sidarta.si

© ROLANDO GARIBOTTI, DORTE PIETRON

Warning Climbing is a dangerous sport that can result in severe inj uri e s or death. The information given in this book is a mere g uide lin e . Conditions and routes are subject to sudden change. T his information was collected from numerous sources that co uld not be independently verified. The authors cannot guarantee the accu racy of the information . Neither the authors nor the pe o ple that contributed information accept any responsibility in case of an accident on one of the routes described. This guidebook is not a substitute for proper instruction, experience or good judgement . Climb at your own risk .

ClP - Katalozni zapis o publikaciji Narodna in univerzitetna knjiznica, Ljubljana 796.52(238.16)(036) GARlBOTTl, Rolando Patagonia vertical : Chalten Massif 1 Rolando Garibotti, Dorte Pietron ; [topos Dorte Pietron ; cartography Lojze MiklavCic]. Ljubljana : Sidarta, 2012. - (Sidarta guides) ISBN 978-961-6027-67-0 1. Pietron, Dorte 263834624

ROLANDO GARIBOTTI DORTE PIETRON

PATAGONIA VERTICAL Chalten Massif

l2

SID ARTA

CONTENTS

Acknowledgments Introduction

8 16

GENERAL INFORMATION Getting there Staying there Lodging Food Gear shops Climbing around town Internet

18 18 18 19 19 19 19 19

CLIMBING IN THE MOUNTAINS When to come Access, permits and fees Treading lightly Equipment General strategy Climbing strategy Staying alive Rescue Weather Weather forecasting

20 20 20 22 26 28 28 29 30 31 32

How TO USE THIS GUIDEBOOK Choosing a route Route information Tapas and photodiagrams Tapa explanation graph

38 38 39 44 44

Toponyms and early exploration Brief climbing history Map of the area

45 47 54

APPROACHES Valle del Rio Tunel Valle del Rio Fitz Roy - Cerro Torre Valley Valle del Rio Electrico Valle del Rio Blanco

56 56 67 69

C oNTENTS

CORDON ADELA Cerro Azara Agujas del Rio Tunel Cerro Solo Cerro Grande Punta Luca Punta Mini Torre Cerro El Doblado Cerro El Nato Cerro Adela Sur Cerro Adela Central Cerro Adela Norte

74 74 74 7S 77 79 79 79 8o 82 84 87

ToRRE GROUP El Mocho Aguja de la Medialuna Punta Pereyra Cerro Torre Torre Egger Punta Herron Aguja Standhardt Punta Shanti Punta Perfil de Indio Aguja Bifida Punta Filip Agujas Pachamama, Atchachila and Inti Aguja Cuatro Dedos Aguja CAT

90 92 IOO I02 I04 I40 ISO ISS I64 I66 I66 I7I I73 I7S I76

PIERG!ORG!O & PO LLONE GROUP Cerro Domo Blanco Cerro Piergiorgio Cerro Pollone Cerro Pollone Cumbre Este Aguja Pollone Aguja Tito Carrasco Gran Gendarme del Pollone Lorna Blanca

I78 I78 I8o I89 I93 I9S 197 I98 I99

CORDON MARCONI Cerro Rincon

200 200

Aguja Volonqui & Colmillos Sur, Central and Norte AgujaDumbo Cordon Marconi Cerro Marconi Sur Cerro Marconi Central Cerro Marconi Norte

200 202 202 204 204 205

FITZ RoY GROUP Cerro Electrico Castillo Negro Aguja Guillaumet Aguja Mermoz Aguja Val Biois Cerro Fitz Roy Aguja de la Silla Aguja Desmochada Aguja Kakito Kakito North Summit - Punta M&M Aguja Poincenot La Gran Barrera Aguja Rafael Juarez Aguja Saint-Exupery Aguja del'S Moj6nRojo Cerro Techado Negro Cerro Nire Punta Velluda Comedor de los Franceses Cerro Madsen Filo del Hombre Sentado

206 208 208 209 225 234 236 290 293 303 306 307 328 329 337 348 356 357 357 357 358 358 358

Route Index Place and Peak Index Photo credits

360 366 367

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

This book would not have been possible without Lindsay Griffin's thorough editing and feedback, as well as his guidance over the years. Special thanks to Christian Beckwith who inspired this project in a now distant I995· Bernard Domenech gathered detailed records about this area and pushed hard for this guidebook to happen. Unfortunately he is not with us anymore. Our deepest gratitude for his friendship. Gino Buscaini and Silvia Metzeltin's excellent book Patagonia - Terra Magica per Alpinisti e Viaggiatori, is the foundation of this book. The following people contributed information. To them thank you. A. Aastorp, J. Ackermann, P. Aguado, T. Aguila, K. Albert, M.A. Alonso, F. D. Altan, AAC Library, J. Arpin, B.-E. Artun, D. Ascaso, A. Aste, D. Autheman, Y. Banderet, 0. Bar6, C. Baxter, M. Bearzi, B. Becker, R. Beger, S. Bennett, Biblioteca CAl- Torino, Biblioteca Dante Aghiliere- Bs. As., Biblioteca ENSA- Elsa Claret Tournier, Biblioteca SAT - R. Decarli, C. v. Birckhahn, G. Birtles, T. Bonapace, W. Bonatti, C. Botazzi, B. Bowers, I. Bozic Skok, D. Brighenti, P. Bruckner, P. Burke, C. Burns, T. Caldwell, R. Calvo, R. Carrington, J. Catto, A. Cepelkova, D. Chiappa, Y. Chouinard, A. Clouet, S. Cole, C. Comesaiia, M. Conti, }. Copp, K. Cordes, M. Couch, G. Crimella, G. Crouch, S. de la Cruz, H. Cuiiias, G. Dalbagni, S. Dashkevich, L. Daudet, S. Davis, C. Davis - Robbins, F. Demarchi, M. Devi, L. Dickinson, B. Ditto,}. Donini, D. Dorworth, D. Drummond, C. Dumarest, G. Diinser, G. Dura, M. Earle, J. Edwards, T. Egizabal, M. Eriksson, P. Fasoldt, G. Fava, N. Favresse, C. Ferrari, E. Fine, L. Fiorenza, S. Fitzpatrick, J. L. Fonrouge, C. Fowler, S. Friedlin, P. Gagner, A. Garcia, E. and S. Gatt, C. Geisler, S. Gietl, M. Giordani, H. Gratton, J. Griffith, T. Grohne, C. Haley, B. Hall, J. Harlin, K. Harvey, M. Hasegawa, F. v. Herreghewe, B. Herrington, A. Huber, T. Huber, J. Huey, Y. Igolkin, C. lnselvini, M. lshibe, R. Jasper, T. JakofCic, S. Jouty, M. Kambic, S. Karo, N. Kauffman, A. Kearney, H. Kennedy, A. Kirkpatrick, S. Klemenc, A. d.

8

Acknowledgements

Klerk, E. Kopcke, V. Kopylov, Z. Koren,). Kozulj, ). Kruk, D. Llabres, M. LenarCic, M. Lerjen, 0. Lied, A. Lindblade, V. Linek, R. Lora, P. Luthi, P. Lutynski, D. MacDonald, D. Magaldi, G. Magnone, W. Magro, K. Mali, A. Marazzi, F. Marsigny, N. Martin, 0. Matijevic, ). McClure, M. Miyazaki, C. Molina, N. Monaco, M. Moosberger, M. Motto, M. Murcia, L. Nadali, M. Odell, T. O'Neill, E. Orlandi, l. Palma, M. Panzeri, K. Pardifias, A. Parkin, A. Paszczak, ). Paytubi, R. Pe, P. Pera, M. Piola, M. Pitelka, P. Podgornik, T. Ponholzer, A. Portela, D. Potter, P. Dal Pra, M. Praprotnik, M. Prezelj, T. Proctor, S. Queiro, ). Radziejowski, A. Rampini, ). Raselli, ). Reichert, B. Robinson, A. Rosasco, K. Rutherford, T. A. Saeland, E. Salvaterra, A. Sarchi, F. Savenc, M. Schaefer, R. Schaeli, M. Schwitter, E. Simon, R. Sisernik, ). Skok, P. Skvarca, ). Smith, Z. Smith, B. Sourzac, L. Spadaccini, ). P. Spickerman, W. Stanhope, M. Synott, M. Tada, A. Taglialegne, K. Thaw, ). Toman, R. Treppte, ). Tresch, T. Ulrich, M. Venzo, S. Villanueva, P. Villarasu, P. Vitali, E. Vivaldi, T. Volpiatto, B. Wald, ). Walsh, G. Watzl, ). Wharton, A. Whimp, R. White, C. D. Whiteman, ). Whittle, F. Wilkinson, K. Wilson, H. Wirtz, B. Wyvill, Y. Yamanoi and A. Zegers.

Acknowledgements

9

INTRODUCTION

The peaks of the Chalten Massif are some of the most iconic in the world, jagged spires that shoot toward the sky. They offer everything a climber could desire, from excellent quality granite to uniquely wild rime formations. All this is set in a dramatic environment, with the endless Patagonian steppe to the east and the wild expanse of the lee Cap (Hielo Continental), an enormous network of glaciers that drops into Pacific Ocean fjords, to the west. lt is a challenging environment, compounded by the weather, which more often than not is terribly short tempered, though from time to time becomes surprisingly forgiving. Whilst many are deterred by the region's fierce reputation, others find it inspiring. For almost roo years, since Alfred Kolliker's ascent of Cerro Huemul, this area has been one of the world's ultimate alpine playgrounds, seducing climbers from every corner. The brilliant ascents, magnificent failures, unfortunate tragedies and tall tales that have taken place in these mountains have become part of alpine lore. This was once a faraway land, a place where mountaineers came to live an adventurous life in the wild. Everything changed in the late 1980s, when for geopolitical reasons Argentina established the town of El Chalten. A bridge over the Rio Fitz Roy was the first step. This was followed by paved roads, services and infrastructure. To the credit of the planning officials, all this development took place at the edge of the park, leaving the mountain area largely unchanged, free of infrastructure. That said, if real solitude is what you are after, look instead at the myriad of remote peaks in the southern Andes. These days, a visit to El Chalten is a climbing trip and not an expedition. The overall experience has become more civilized and tame, but the beauty of the peaks, the quality of the rock and the ferocity of the storms have not changed: climbers are just as able to have real adventures that build lasting memories. Today it is easier than ever to confront the climbing challenges at their face value. The key change happened in the form of weather forecasts, which became available in the mid 2000s and are accurate enough to allow you to climb with little apprehension. ln the last decade "climate

16

Introduction

change" appears to have shifted weather patterns for the "better", with long good weather windows becoming far more common, producing generally drier conditions. One of the area's most precious gifts is its rock. The golden granite on Cerro Fitz Roy's Goretta Pillar, Cerro Piergiorgio, or Agujas Saint-Exupery and Mermoz, to name a few, is simply fantastic . These jagged spires offer steep walls ranging from 300 to r5oo meters in height, providing both enjoyable day climbs and unrepeated horror shows. Most towers involve complex descents and require rappels. The long approaches and lack of mountain huts mean that most climbs require a minimalist advanced camp near the base of the peaks. There are also countless moderate alpine objectives on varied terrain, involving easy snow climbing and scrambling, perfect for aspiring alpinists. Cerros Madsen, Electrico, Solo and Moj6n Rojo are examples. They offer superb views of the massif. Traverses around or through the massif, such as those around Cerro Fitz Roy via the Boquete del Piergiorgio, or around Cerro Torre via the lee Cap, are also fine objectives for aspiring alpinists.

The Chalten Massif with Rfo de las Vueltas and the town of El Chalten in the foreground.

Introduction

17

GENERAL INFORMATION

Getting there The most direct route involves a flight from Buenos Aires to El Calafate (three to four hours). lt is also possible to fly from Bariloche to El Calafate (two to three hours). lf you are coming from outside Argentina, and depending on the arrival time of your flight, it is possible to reach El Calafate the same day you arrive in Buenos Aires, and continue to El Chalten. International travelers normally have to change airports in Buenos Aires, from Pistarini (EZE) to Newbery (AEP). To do so, use one of the established bus companies, those that have ticket booths inside the terminal. lt is also possible to use a "remis" (private car) from the same companies, but do not take a taxi from outside the airport, because you will invariably be ripped off. El Calafate is 250 kilometers from El Chalten. The Las Lengas bus company offers direct services from the airport to El Chalten, avoiding the unnecessary 30 kilometer detour to El Calafate. However, a reservation is mandatory (transportelaslengas.com). ln El Calafate there is a shuttle service from the airport to the bus terminal (rskm, vespatagonia.com), from where many companies have buses that leave several times a day to El Chalten, the last one leaving around 9 p.m. All schedules can be easily found with a quick web search. Staying there El Chalten is a small tourist town located next to Los Glaciares National Park, at the start of the trailheads to Cerro Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre. lt lies at an altitude of 400 meters. The park was created in 1937 and covers an area of 726.ooo hectares. ln 1981 it was declared a UNESCO World Heritage site. El Chalten offers every service you might need: campgrounds, youth hostels, hotels, restaurants, grocery stores, gear shops, post office, ATM, a house of ill repute, internet and phone service. Until the mid 2ooos climbers stayed inside the park, in base camps such as De Agostini and Rio Blanco, which are located 1:30 to 2 hours walk from town. Since then, and to minimize impact within the park, staying in such camps, although not illegal, has been strongly discouraged. Thanks to the many services in town as well as nearby high quality bouldering and sport climbing, staying in town is by no means a disadvantage. When the weather starts to look promising, climbers hike directly to advanced camps such as Niponino, Polacos, Noruegos, Paso Superior or Piedra Negra, skipping the old base camps altogether. These advanced camps are around five to seven hours walk from town. See the Treading Lightly chapter.

18

General information

Lodging

There are three campgrounds in town. Camping del Lago offers the most services, including an inside kitchen, but it is often overcrowded. Campings El Relincho and El Refugio are located next to each other and are fairly quiet, but have no closed kitchen area. All three offer showers. There is an almost infinite number of hostels and hotels, as well as rooms and apartments available for rent. As in most of the world's tourist resorts, lodging is expensive for what you get. Food

There are a number of small grocery stores selling a reasonable array of "normal" food items. People with special food needs or preferences might find the selection limited. No mountain specific food, such as energy bars, gels or freeze- dried dinners, is available. Dehydrated meals have appeared in the last few years, but they are difficult to cook properly and very hard to digest. Gear shops

There are a number of gear shops in town. Viento Oeste (elchalten.comjvientooeste), located at the north end of town near the trailhead to Rio Blanco, has self -sealing butane cartridges and white gas. lt also sells products from internationally known companies such as Asolo, Camp, Salewa, Salomon, La Sportiva and The North Face, to name but a few. Due to Argentina's high import taxes, prices for imported goods are considerably higher than in Europe or North America. Viento Oeste also rents boots, crampons, ice axes, snowshoes, tents, sleds, snow shovels, sleeping bags and stoves. This might be with all useful for those visiting the area for a short trip and unwilling to the equipment needed. Climbing around town

There are over 200 bolted pitches around town, with difficulties ranging from 4 to 8c. The quality of the rock is adequate at best. Cesar Acuna published an excellent guidebook that is readily available, but which quickly became out of date. There is also world -class bouldering right next to the town, on countless boulders that have excellent rock and problems up to 8b. Internet

Internet service is available in a number of internet cafes, some of which allow you to connect your own computer. A number of cafes and restaurants offer free Wi - Fi access. The connection is either via satellite or radio, so the speed of the service is mighty slow.

General information

19

CLIMBING IN THE MOUNTAINS

When to come The climbing season is November through to the end of February. Statistically, this period is the driest. More often than not you will find more snow and ice in November and December, and considerably warmer temperatures and drier conditions during january and February. That said, it is impossible to point to a trend, as conditions vary greatly from season to season. An early season visit has several benefits; the glacial approaches are nicely filled and the area is reasonably quiet. Later, glaciers become very broken and tourists flood every trail. ln recent years, during peak months, classic routes have become dangerously crowded. As an example, in late 2on, 20 people turned up on the same day to climb the Supercanaleta on Cerro FitzRoy. Winter and off -season ascents are rare but since the area is reasonably crowded during the regular climbing season, they are bound to become a more common occurrence. So how do you decide when to come? Since it is impossible to predict when the weather will be optimal, you should plan your trip based on when the conditions are best suited for your objectives. You have a better chance of finding ice and mixed routes in condition from October through December, while the best rock climbing months are january and February. However, in the second half of the season and especially during long good weather windows, approaches to many rock climbs become extremely dangerous due to stone fall and should be considered off-limits. The approach to La Brecha de los ltalianos is a prime example. lt is obvious that climate change is playing a decisive role in this area. This is not unlike the situation in the Alps during the last decades, when more often than not classic north faces have been off -limits during summer months. All this said, keep in mind that every season brings unexpected surprises and that a single storm can completely change the conditions of the entire massif. Come with a long list of objectives and be prepared to be flexible. The table on the facing page highlights the varying weather conditions in different seasons. Susana Queiro collected this information in El Chalten between 1992 and 2007. However, weather conditions in town are vastly different than in the mountains. Access, permits and fees The vast majority of the climbs in this book are located within Los Glaciares National Park. For those accessed from the Rio Tune!, Rio Fitz Roy or Rio Blanco valleys, or to climb Aguja Guillaumet and Aguja Mermoz from the north or west, you must secure a climbing permit at the National Park's Visitor Centre. The climbing permit is free but is mandatory.

20

Climbing in the Mountains

Precipitation (mm) January February March April May June July August September October November December Total

20.9 36.3 53.3 50.5 58.8 45 .2 46.4 38.3 22.9 46.8 21.8 25 466.2

Humidity

Temp

(%)

CC)

Wind (km/h)

50.06 49.44 51.73 58.2 61.13 60.3 58.96 57.79 60.91 54.4 51.61 53.78

14.05 13.49 11.35 9.31 7.36 1.1 0.91 2.93 6.12 8.27 9.S1 9.7

19.5 16.9 12.4 9.7 5.8 5.1 6 7.2 10.1 15 .1 21.3 20.5

. . . . . . . . . . . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

If you plan to climb in the Marconi, Piergiorgio or Pollone groups you do not have to register, because those areas are outside the National Park. The same goes for anything on Cerro Fitz Roy's north and west face, unless you plan to descend east, via the Franco- Argentina. If in doubt, register. If you plan to climb anything on the west flank of the massif, via the Paso Marconi and the lee Cap, not only must you register with the National Park but also, since you will be entering Chile, register with Gendarmeria Nacional (the border patrol). Registration is free but is mandatory and requires 72 hours to process. The Rio Electrico Valley is private. In Piedra del Fraile you will be charged an access fee every time you hike through (U$ 25 in early 2012) . In the area surrounding El Chalten unrestricted access is limited to the National Park, the area west of the Rio de las Vueltas and south of a park boundary located about one kilometer south of the Rio Electrico, and to a small piece of provincial land immediately NW of Cerro Fitz Roy. Everything to the north and east of these areas is private. El Chalten, the so-called national capital of trekking has only one limited area where access is allowed. In Argentina there is no law that contemplates the right to access private property for recreation or exercise. Such laws exist in most European countries under a number of names, Right to Roam, Allemansratten, Outdoor Access Code, etc. This is quite unfortunate for outdoor users, but has nothing to do with the landowners, who are by no means at fault and deserve no blame. It has much to do with the lack of vision and foresight by past and present lawmakers and bureaucrats.

Climbing in the Mountains

21

CLIMBING IN THE MOUNTAINS

ln I999 two local entrepreneurs secured a temporary occupation permit, the first step toward ownership, over a piece of provincial land that includes the north face of Cerro Fitz Roy, the Pollone Massif, Cerros Piergiorgio and Rincon, and the entire Glaciar FitzRoy Norte. A decisive effort by a number of climbers and local residents, followed by an extensive letter-writing campaign by climbers and climbing institutions from around the world, was successful in repelling this initiative. Today, that precious expanse of glaciers and granite spires remains in public hands. ln late 2004, the National Parks Administration of Argentina (APN) approved a measure, instituting a hefty climbing fee for Cerro Fitz Roy, Cerro Torre and its outlying peaks. The measure was based on an ill-conceived comparison to the issues and permit fee structure for Aconcagua in the Province of Mendoza. An effort against this measure, organized by two climbers and a Park ranger, and with the support of many climbers and institutions from around the world, put this fee scheme to rest. Treading lightly

The peaks of the Chalten Massif are located within a National Park and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. With climbers no longer camping in environmentally sensitive areas, such as the traditional base camps, their overall impact has been greatly reduced. Today, climbers travel popular trekking trails and then overnight almost exclusively on moving moraines or glaciers. ln such areas, where the forces of nature modify the scenery from day to day, it is virtually impossible to cause man -made erosion. Do your part to minimize climber impact by not camping at the Rio Blanco, Poincenot or De Agostini sites. With climber numbers growing rapidly and traffic on some of the most popular routes becoming intense, it is imperative that climbers collectively embrace the ideals of the wilderness leave no trace ethic, packing out everything they carry, and making a conscientious effort to leave the least amount of gear in place. Not doing so will destroy the charm of these peaks. Fixed ropes have produced a negative impact on the area, because most teams that used them, abandoned them. This was particularly true in the rg8os but it has continued into the 'gos and 2ooos, including recent climbs. Abandoned fixed ropes are a bothersome form of wall garbage, because they get in the way during an ascent. Listed in this guidebook you will find every route that has fixed ropes in place. Over time it may be possible to clean up such climbs but abandoning fixed ropes should not continue. The all too common excuse is to say that "the weather was bad and therefore they couldn't be retrieved". However, if the climbers spent time placing them, then surely they should make the time to remove them.

22

Climbing in the Mountains

Fixed ropes should only be placed immediately before beginning an ascent, and should be kept in place only while actively working on the route. They should not be left from one season to the next. Certainly no fixed ropes should be placed on established routes, especially on popular approaches, such as the climbs to La Brecha or to the Col de la Paciencia. The age of conquest has long past. With the means and equipment available today, alpinism must limit their use, if it is to preserve a certain level of virtue. Climbing alpine style implies accepting the challenge presented by the length of the route. Fortunately, with rare exceptions, in the last two decades there has been a clear departure from the type of alpinism that relied so heavily on fixed ropes. Today 99% of ascents are made in alpine style. Alpine style helps preserve climbs in a clean state, ensuring a high quality experience for fellow climbers, those of today and those of the future. Some climbs put up in alpine style, such as those on the south face of Fitz Roy, SW face of Poincenot and west face of the Pilar Goretta, have not a single piece of fixed gear. Such climbs are a rare treat. The rock is very high quality and easily accepts natural protection. ln rare cases bolts have been necessary in sections of blank rock, to connect natural features. Three routes have numerous bolts next to perfect cracks. These were placed to facilitate the ascent and encourage repeats. lt is wildly contradictory to facilitate ascents that are located in such a hostile environment. The placement of bolts in alpine areas should be minimalistic, and they should certainly not be drilled for convenience. On many popular routes rappel stations have developed into unsightly spider webs of old webbing. This has nothing to do with the fact that these rappel stations are natural, on pitons, horns and stoppers, but a lot to do with climbers, who mostly don't take the time to replace old slings. When they do, they don't spend time removing the old ones. With minimal effort from each climber it should be possible to address this problem. Due to an increase in traffic, leaving permanent gear caches has become an issue. Gear should be cached seasonally and should be retrieved before departing the area. Temporary gear caches should be labeled with name, date and contact information, and should be locked, as there have been many thefts. Climbers should be mindful of disposing human waste, especially in places that see a lot of traffic, such as Paso Superior, Piedra Negra and Niponino. Distance yourself as much as possible from camping areas and water sources. ln the case of Paso Superior, the National Park has installed a shovel, to help climbers dispose of their waste over a cliff. This might not be an ideal solution but it is a good first step. There have been instances at Paso Superior when

Climbing in the Mountains

23

CLIMBING IN THE MOUNTAINS

the surrounding snow became contaminated and caused a large number of climbers to get sick. Proper disposal of human waste is a social issue: it requires each and every user to do his or her part. lt is important to use existing trails. Shortcutting causes severe erosion, especially on heavily used trails such as that to Laguna de los Tres. Heavy traffic (go,ooo visitors arrive in El Chalten every year), rainfall and wind erode as much as ro centimeters of soil per year. The structures in place, such as steps and water -bars, are intended to minimize that erosion. Please stay on the trail. The biggest environmental issue in Los Glaciares National Park comes from livestock. Owing to rules surrounding the creation of the park, grazing is still allowed in many areas of the northern section, while in the southern part abandoned livestock is decimating vast tracks of protected land. Lack of political will and resources has prevented any solution to this grave problem. Equipment

Personal climbing style will dictate equipment needs. Light is right, particularly in a place where speed is paramount, due to notoriously unstable weather. This guidebook describes a selection of climbs that require a wide array of equipment, from copperheads to snow -pickets. Some can be done in approach shoes; others may require double boots. Suggestions on what to carry in the way of protection are listed with each climb but other equipment will depend on conditions. One week it may be possible to climb Fitz Roy with running shoes and aluminum crampons, the next might need heavy boots and steel crampons. As always, use your best judgment. Early in the season, in certain conditions, some approaches will be easier using skis or snowshoes. Boots. Cerro Fitz Roy has been climbed many times with approach shoes and Aaron Martin came close to climbing Cerro Torre in similarly light shoes. Footwear choice is personal and depends on the climb and the conditions. Although light double boots can prove useful for early season ascents or for multi - day ascents, simple insulated leather boots are sufficient for almost any climb in the area. Clothing. Since the advent of reliable weather forecasts, a light shell jacket or windbreaker, in combination with a synthetic insulated jacket, is sufficient. Soft shell pants, worn with a thin base layer and thin shell pant, should also be enough for most conditions. Sleeping system. Light tents are useful for the advanced camps, such as Niponino, Noruegos, Polacos and Piedra Negra. They can also be useful at Paso Superior, although it might be simpler to bivy there.

26

Climbing in the Mountains

For multi-day alpine climbs, and to save weight, many parties use a single sleeping bag between two climbers. lt is advisable to use a sleeping bag with a full zipper, closing it off with a homemade fabric triangle that has zippers on each side to match those on the sleeping bag (the width of the triangle should be around 8ocm at the top). Depending on the season, choose a sleeping bag with 350 to Goo grams of down fill and 6oo grams to Ikg total weight. The triangle with double zippers can be made with any light wind -breaking fabric and should weigh no more than 100 grams. This, in combination with a homemade 2.5 person bivy sack, can make an ideal sleeping kit. A two -person bivy sack should be big enough to fit comfortably and have space to light the stove inside. No two -person bivy sacks currently on the market are suitable, so you will have to find the fabric and make it yourself. Ideal material will be lightweight, wind proof and water resistant, but also highly breathable. Make a 2IOXI6ocm sack with a zipper near the top and at least four sliders for ventilation (two on the sides and two in the center). The completed sack should weight about 450 grams. Stove. A butane stove is sufficient for any climb in the area, unless you plan to dig a snow-cave and spend time in it. ln that case consider using a white gas stove, which is much more efficient when melting snow. Crampons. Many of the rock climbs in the area can be approached using aluminum crampons. ln order to save weight when steel crampons become necessary, consider combining steel fronts with aluminum backs. Ropes. lf you plan to jumar, be aware that the rock is very rough, so use at least g.8mm ropes. Rack. The description of each climb includes suggestions for the rack. lf you plan to be in El Chalten for a long period, consider bringing a double or triple set of stoppers; you are certain to leave many behind when improving rappel stations. Tape. The granite in this area is very rough. For steeper climbs, such as the south face of Desmochada or east face of Fitz Roy, hand taping is advisable. Consider using a pair of crack gloves; they don't cut off circulation like tape, keeping hands warmer. Food. On multi -day climbs it is difficult to carry more than 2500 calories per day, but it is wise not to carry less. Fat rich foods such as nuts have many more calories per gram than carbohydrates. The ease of freeze-dried meals for dinners is hard to beat and is highly recommended but they are not available in Argentina. Water. To supplement whatever water you carry, take a thin plastic tube, which will allow you to siphon water from the many small trickles found on climbs. Although water from all rivers is drinkable without treating, it is advisable to collect it above or away from camping areas. There have been a few

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cases of climbers getting sick from contaminated snow in places such as Paso Superior. Rime climbing. If you plan to do any climbing on the rime mushrooms that crown many of the peaks in the Cordon Adela or Torre group, consider bringing a few snow -pickets (6o-7ocm length), some heavy stuff sacks to build dead -man style anchors (dig a deep hole in the rime or snow, fill the sack with snow, put sling around sack, drop sack in hole, tightly cover sack with snow and stomp on it), and if possible make set of "wings" for your ice axes. lee-axe wings are I3xrocm, L-shaped, 3mm aluminum plates that bolt to each side of the head of the axe. These provide purchase in unconsolidated rime and allow you to dig through it more easily. Use aluminum thick enough so that it does not easily bend. General strategy As mentioned earlier, most climbers today shy away from the old expedition- style approach, staying in town and hiking directly to advanced camps or bivies such as Niponino, Polacos, Paso Superior or Piedra Negra when the weather shows signs of improvement. In most cases it is beneficial to ferry equipment to these locations ahead of time. It is possible to hire porters to carry anywhere in the massif, but, quite rightly, their services are not cheap. In the last few years there have been thefts at advanced camps, so cache your gear inside a duffle bag that can be locked and then hidden. Also make sure to use dry bags or double plastic bags to keep your equipment dry. With a light load advanced camps or bivies can be reached in four to seven hours from town. Any peak or route can be climbed from these camps without the need to establish camps or snow caves at the base of the wall. Climbing strategy Most routes on the smaller spires, or classic routes on the big peaks, can be tackled easily in one long day from advanced camps or bivies. This usually means leaving camp early in order to reach the base of the climb at dawn, reaching the summit in the late afternoon, and finishing the descent by headlamp. On the bigger peaks it is always wise to carry a bivy sack and stove. On climbs that have established rappel anchors and no snowfields, it is possible to leave crampons and ice axes at the base, climbing light with a single pack. This in turn might allow the second to climb instead of jumar, which is undoubtedly more fun. Considerable experience in gear selection is required to do multi- day climbs carrying ice and bivy equipment without the need for jumars. It is possible on lower angle climbs such as the Afanassieff, Ensuefio, Eslovaca, etc, but is much more difficult on steeper terrain, such as the

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Casarotto or climbs on the east face of Fitz Roy. In some cases hauling a pack might allow the second to climb instead of jumar. On longer routes, where speed is important, it is more efficient to climb in blocks, with one of the party leading five or more pitches before changing roles. Alternating leads is slow and inefficient. Many descents are difficult to "on-sight" and require experience. When rappelling, test every piton with a hammer and take time to replace any slings that might look questionable. If you are caught in a storm with ferocious winds, make 30-meter rappels and send the ropes down by lowering the first person. Staying Alive Until a decade ago most climbers visiting this area were competent, aware and capable of coping with the dangers and hazards of their pursuit. Courtesy of reliable weather forecasts and information much has changed in recent years. Today it is not unusual to find climbers with little experience attempting some of the bigger peaks in the massif. Mountains like Cerro Fitz Roy are not the place to practice moves and techniques for the first time. Don't forget that many moderate peaks in the area provide wonderful summit views, can be extremely satisfying, and are a good way to gain experience. Since I959 there have been around 30 climbing related deaths. Half of these happened during descents and zo% were related to glacier travel. By carefully checking all fixed anchors, roping up on glaciers, and being proficient at crevasse rescue, your chances of survival will be greatly increased. Four deaths were caused by stone fall and two were due to hypothermia and exhaustion. Long periods of good weather make the gullies that lead to and from many climbs a bad proposition. The gully below La Brecha de los Italianos is a prime example, as is the terrain below the Col de la Paciencia. Warm weather has resulted in major rockfalls in popular couloirs, such as the approach to Aguja Rafael juarez and Aguja Desmochada. Be smart when planning your climb. If the forecast shows high temperatures with the freezing level (0 oc isotherm) near the summits, choose rock routes with little objective danger and safe ap proaches. After long periods of bad weather, with heavy precipitation, it would be wise to mistrust any slope over 30°. Two examples of the many locations that become avalanche prone after heavy precipitation are the concave area entering the Whillans- Cochrane route on Aguja Poincenot and the couloir leading to the Col Standhardt. Unstable moraines have caused a number of serious accidents in the last few years. In particular, the slopes leading to Polacos or Noruegos can be

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extremely dangerous as they are loaded with hundreds ofloose refrigerator size boulders. just because there is good weather does not mean you have to risk your life, even if good weather is rare. Your safety and your involvement is your own responsibility. Be careful, be aware and always climb in a self-sufficient manner. Rescue. Mandatory self-rescue for accidents "on the wall". In the mid 1990s and out of necessity due to an alarming increase in the number of accidents, a group of local guides, mountaineers and aficionados started a volunteer rescue team called Comisi6n de Auxilio Fabio Stedile. The group coordinates and organizes rescue efforts but can still need the help of all climbers. The group is named after an Italian climber who died in 1994, while descending from Cerro Torre. Stedile was a member of the Soccorso Alpino Trentino, a rescue team in Trento, Italy. After his death this team donated a large amount of rescue equipment to start the group. In the last 20 years, and with the help of National Park rangers and Gendarmeria Nacional officials, countless successful rescues have been carried out, even in the furthest corners of the massif. However, due to the ferocious weather conditions, complexity of the terrain, and the lack of nearby helicopters, resources and experienced pilots and rescuers, not a single "wall rescue" has ever been successfully accomplished. lf you should have an accident on the technical terrain of a wall, and hope to survive, you must rely on self- rescue to reach the base of the wall. In light of this and since a successful self-rescue depends largely on manpower, consider climbing in parties of three or more. Be sure to educate yourself in self- rescue techniques. The fact that no wall rescue is available should be an important consideration when choosing objectives. Committing to objectives beyond your level of experience should not be considered an option. The closest helicopter to El Chalten is based seven flying hours away and the round trip costs upwards of 20,000 dollars. ln case of an accident or major emergency alert someone as soon as you can. Two accidents in recent years could have had better outcomes had the victims' partners moved swiftly, notifying the first people they came across instead of waiting until they arrived in town. Having a handheld VHF radio or satellite phone to coordinate a rescue from the base of the wall could prove useful and might affect the outcome.

lf you have a handheld VHF radio, program into it the following frequencies: National Park's office: 150.395 reception, 155.135 emission. Defensa Civil: 154.335 reception, 149.335 emission.

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If you have a satellite phone insert the following numbers in the memory: National Park's office: oo 54 2962 493 004 Local clinic: oo 54 2962 493 033 Call these frequencies and phone numbers only in case of a major emergency. As any rescue will be by foot and therefore relatively slow, be sure to carry a well- furbished first aid kit, including strong painkillers. This will ensure that you can make every attempt to carry out self-rescue. Weather

In his book "Land of Tempest" Eric Shipton wrote of Patagonia, "The chief problem is presented by the weather, which is said to be the worst in the world. Heavy rain falls for prolonged periods; fine spells are rare and usually brief, and above all there is the notorious Patagonian wind, the savage storms which often continue for weeks at a stretch, with gusts up to 130 mph." Shipton was unlucky, or maybe lucky enough to visit the area before the advent of weather forecasts. Today, thanks to a number of resources available through Internet, it has become relatively easy to forecast weather conditions. Since there are no customized forecasts, you will have to learn to read the available information and make your own conclusions. With reasonably accurate weather forecasts it is now possible to climb during the shortest of good weather windows and to know when it is time to "go big". That said, weather forecasting does little for you when the weather is bad for one or even two months straight, a scenario that is quite common. The maritime conditions at the southern tip of the American continent are key to the weather patterns experienced in this area. The atmosphere always holds plenty of moisture. The lack oflandmass to the west means less friction and explains the strong winds. Due to the dominant maritime conditions, temperatures tend to be moderate, without extremes in either direction. One of the main reasons for the constant low pressure is the graveyard of low-pressure systems around Antarctica, known as the polar vortex. Unfortunately, there is little information available about these systems, or ocean temperature, or other factors than might help the prediction of extended good weather periods two or more weeks ahead of time. Empirical observations suggest that La Nina years are drier than usual, and even though the Antarctic Oscillation (the north- south fluctuation of the circumpolar low pressure circle around Antarctica) has a much stronger influence on the climate of the southern tip of the Americas, La Nina is perhaps something to take into consideration, as it is forecast months in advance.

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Weather forecasting There are a number of numerical global models that are used to forecast weather conditions. A set of mathematical equations describing the dynamics of the atmosphere is applied to a data set describing current meteorological conditions. These current conditions are obtained daily from coordinated weather balloon launches, in locations all over the world. Supplementing this data is information from surface weather stations, buoys, ships, commercial aircraft, satellites and other sources. The data is then assembled via telecommunications into a data set suitable for model input. Unfortunately for southern Patagonia, the economic interests in the area are limited, so there is limited allocation of resources to observe current weather conditions and produce a reliable forecast. Poor initialization of the models over the Southern Ocean, where little data is available, exacerbates the problem. Global model forecasts are made by starting with the atmospheric state at the initialization time and using equations to predict the future state of the atmosphere in IO , 20 or 30 minute interludes. The model is then applied again, repeating the process until the desired length of forecast is reached.

There are only three global models that can claim to be independent. The US's National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA) runs the Global Forecast System (GFS), which produces a worldwide forecast four times a day for a period of r6 days. NOGAPS is a model run by the US's Naval Research Laboratory in Monterey California, to keep an eye on GFS's accuracy. IFS (Integrated Forecast System) is a model operated by the European Centre for Medium- Range Weather Forecasts (ECMWF). It delivers forecasts every 12 hours for a IO-day period. The GFS model is the only global model for which all output data is available; hence it is the most relied upon. Enough data is available from NOGAPS to serve as a good comparison with GFS. Unfortunately, very little data is available for free from the IFS model. Sites like Windguru, Meteo Exploration, Free Meteo, Snow Forecast, Accuweather, Weather Underground, etc, have no models of their own and produce no "original" data. They rely on the GFS model to make interpretations of future conditions; comparing them to one another is pointless. However, comparisons are worth making between the different models, GFS, NOGAPS and IFS. Model outputs include weather maps and meteograms. Meteograms are graphs showing how meteorological variables are expected to vary with time at a given location. Weather maps are similar to topographic maps and are presented as

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sets, showing weather conditions over a certain geographic area at different times. Certain parameters are better understood in meteograms, while others, particularly general forecast reliability, can only be judged looking at maps. All forecasts are in "zulu" time, which is UTC time, Coordinated Universal Time, equivalent to GMT, Greenwich Mean Time - the time at Greenwich, England and is abbreviated with the letter Z. Because several hours are required to assemble the data sets and run the models, the results from a model are not available until hours after the initialization time. The forecast is labeled with the initialization date/time and forecasts are produced for selected UTC dates/times in the future. The user will want to convert the forecast times to Argentine Time (AT). Depending on daylight saving time, UTC is three to four hours ahead of Argentina, so 12Z is 8 or 9 a.m., and OOZ (midnight) is 8 or 9 p.m. New GFS and NOGAPS maps, and GFS meteograms are available four times a day. In El Chalten the forecasts become available at approximately: 9 a.m. (for the 06Z forecast), 3 p.m. (for the 12Z forecast), 9 p.m. (for the 18Z forecast), and 3 a.m. (for the OOZ forecast). When looking at weather maps, remember that the Chalten Massif is located just north of the sao parallel, very close to the border with Chile. When using coordinates to retrieve a meteogram, use the coordinates for the peak you intend to climb, Cerro Torre for example is at: -49.3 -73.1. Remember to convert minutes and seconds to decimal numbers and use the minus sign before the number, otherwise you will get a forecast for Kazakhstan. Weather maps and meteograms offer a wide array of information, the key parameters being mean sea level pressure, precipitation, wind speed and direction, temperature, humidity, dew point, and in some cases solar radiation and cloud cover. If you take time to look at them, it is fairly easy to make assessments of the upcoming weather conditions. You don't have to become a meteorologist. Meteograms show many weather variables, such as temperature, wind speed and direction at different levels above the ground. The forecast plots these non- surface variables at pressure levels rather than at fixed altitudes above sea level. Pressure decreases with altitude and is denoted on meteograms in units of millibars (mb) or hectopascals (hPa), which are equal. The altitudes of pressure levels vary, but the approximate mean heights of pressure levels are: 1013 hPa = sea level, Sso hPa = 1500 m, Boo hPa = 2000 m, 700 hPa = 3000 m, 6oo hPa=4200 m. Usually good climbing weather occurs when mean sea level pressure is around or higher than 1020 hPa. However, decent climbing weather can occur with a mean sea level pressure as low as rooo hPa if there is a low pressure gradient, i.e the isobars are well spaced and there is little air movement. Weather

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maps that display lines of constant mean sea level pressure (isobars) allow you to judge the location and future movement of high and low pressure systems and the forecast reliability. If you are at the geographic edge of a weather system, either a high or low pressure, chances of seeing an unpredicted change are higher than if the center of the weather system is located above you. When looking at maps displaying mean sea level pressure at a constant height surface, be aware that winds generally blow parallel to the isobars and in a clockwise direction around a low pressure system (into it) and counter- clock wise direction around a high pressure (out of it), and that wind speeds are related to the packing of the isobars on the maps. If the lines are close together, winds will be strong; if far apart, winds will be weak. Similarly, weather maps display lines of constant air temperature. In this form it is not practical to the climber. Temperature is best observed in meteograms that show the trajectory of the 0 oc isotherm at varying pressure levels. The pressure level of the 0 OC isotherm indicates whether precipitation at a certain altitude is likely to be snow or rain. Under average conditions the rain- snow limit is 300 meters below the 0 oc isotherm. On maps precipitation is expressed in millimeters for the previous 6 to 12 hour periods, while meteograms show accumulation in shorter intervals. Wind speed is expressed in knots (lkt=1.852 kmjh), in kilometers per hour, or in meters per second (lOmjs 36kmjh, lSmjs 54kmjh, 20mjs 72kmjh, 25mjs 90kmjh, 30mjs 108kmjh). Wind is shown at a fixed elevation or at an equivalent pressure level. When displayed at a fixed elevation you will need to guess what the speed will be at the altitude you hope to climb. This requires a lot of experience with the area. To spare you this interpretation, NOAA offers windgrams that show wind speed and direction at different elevations for the duration of the forecast model. Wind is shown in barbs (flags), which indicate both speed and direction. Each barb tail equals ro knots. Good weather usually occurs when the wind is from the south or SW, while most storms come from the west or NW. The dew point is the temperature at which a certain mass of air is saturated with water vapor. The difference between the actual temperature and the dew point indicates the relative humidity. More often than not, during a period of good weather, this difference will be large. Relative humidity is shown on weather maps as a colored shadow and can be representative of cloud cover. As noted earlier, forecast reliability can be judged by looking at constant height surface maps that display mean sea level pressure. In general, forecasts are only reliable for the following three days, but big high or low pressures can sometimes be forecast two weeks in advance.

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Links • The NOAA meteograms and windgrams can be obtained at ready.arl.noaa.gov • GFS and NOGAPS weather maps for South America can be viewed at usno.navy.mil/FNMOC/ • The little IFS model data available for free can be viewed at ecmwf.int

Visit pataclimb.com before each climb. There you will find additional beta about each climb, including route conditions, updates and warnings.

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This does not attempt to be an "iiber-topo" guide. Here you will find a record of what has been done, with enough info to get you into and out of trouble, but not enough to stop you having a proper adventure. Rather than "how to" info, in many cases we have focused on providing interesting historical details that should not be forgotten, and adventures worth remembering. The guidebook attempts to be complete, including every route climbed in the area. Some are very popular; others are horror-shows without second ascents. ln general, routes that were important in the development of the area are given more editorial space than harder climbs. The Chalten Massif is most definitely not a "school." It is not the place to practice techniques for the first time. Any mistake can have serious consequences. There are a number of areas between Argentina and Chile that provide suitable stepping-stones to climbing in the Chalten Massif: Cerro Catedral near Bariloche; Cochamo near Puerto Montt; and the Paine Massif near Puerto Natales. The latter being far less alpine in character, has fewer variables. Peaks are described in a horseshoe, from south to north along the Cordon Adela and Cerro Torre group, and from north to south along the Cerro Fitz Roy group. The numbering of climbs on each peak begins with the route of first ascent and then moves counter clockwise around the mountain. The only exception is found in the Cordon Adela and Cerro Torre group where, to avoid confusion, route numbers encompass the entire chain. Every route is marked on at least one photo, although in most cases it will appear in several. Routes on photodiagrams are numbered to match their description in the text. Confusion could arise when referring to photos that show several peaks: make sure you identify the correct number and peak in the text. Additionally, many routes have topos. All heights in this guidebook are approximate and only intended to give an idea of the elevation gain involved in a climb or approach. The names of mountains, glaciers, rivers and other geographic features are written in Spanish. Details of name origins can be found for each route, peak or place, when they are first introduced. Route names are in Spanish, unless the first ascensionists christened their line otherwise. Left or right is indicated by the direction the climber is moving. Sometimes this is clarified by adding a compass point. Choosing a route

Although there is a town nearby and the area has become relatively domesticated, there are a number of key differences between the Chalten Massif and northern Patagonia, the Alps, or the mountains in the Lower 48 (US without

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Alaska). These differences include long approaches, rime that can often cover rock faces, the ferocity of the wind and lack of wall rescue. Most people will want to start slow, climbing some of the smaller peaks before venturing onto bigger objectives. The mountains are not going anywhere, so there is little to be lost in first familiarizing yourself with the area. Choosing the right objective to match conditions and weather forecast can often be more difficult than the ascent itself. Conditions change daily and there is no source of reliable data. You have to make your own judgment. Route information

Route information is provided in the following order. Length. The length of a route is given as vertical gain and not as the distance climbed. ln the case of traverses or link- ups this will include the vertical gain on all peaks. Routes or variations that are not fully independent only receive the vertical gain of the new terrain climbed. ln those cases you will find the combined length under the description. Difficulty. The difficulty of each climb is only given in technical grades, describing the crux sections. No overall grade is quoted. judge the seriousness and commitment of a climb based on the technical grades, total length, the difficulty of escape, and the descent. Routes or variations that are not fully independent lines only receive the technical grade of the new terrain they climb. This guide uses the French rating system to describe free climbing difficulties. There is no free climbing grade comparison table in this book but it can easily be found on the web. Note that technical grades do not reflect the seriousness of the environment. A section of s+ high on the Supercanaleta would be the same grade on a crag near El Chalten. This is not the case in guides to many other mountain areas, where grades are soft to reflect the difficulties that surround the ascent. Crack grades are more in line with Yosemite standards, and generally more severe than what many Europeans might expect. When an exclamation sign follows a free climbing grade, it implies that the climbing is mandatory and difficult to protect. ln the case of routes that have now been climbed free at a high standard, the "working man's or mortal's grade" is shown between parenthesis; for example: 7b (6b A2). Routes that have been climbed free, by diverting from the original line, show both grades, for example: "6b A2- 7b with variations". Two kinds of aid ratings are used: a standard aid rating, using the letter A, describing sections that require using a hammer for placing pitons, copperheads, etc, and a clean aid rating, using the letter C. The latter describes

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sections that can be climbed clean, placing natural gear such as Camalots, Stoppers or RPs, without requiring a hammer. In some cases climbs with aid sections rated as clean (C) rely on gear already in place. Most hard aid routes in the region have never been repeated and for the time being there is no consistency in the aid grades quoted. Many of the A4s in this guide may be no more than Yosemite "New Wave" A2 or A2+. Standard water ice grades are used to describe the difficulties of some ice climbs, those closer in nature to a frozen waterfall. Alpine ice, snow and rime mushrooms are graded by simply quoting the slope angle. Rime mushrooms are ever-changing, so the angle given is merely an estimation. Mixed climbing is either graded with an M rating, or a combination of a rock climbing grade and steepness of the ice. In some topos mixed sections are identified with a letter M, without giving a more specific grade. First Ascent. The names of the first ascensionists are listed in alphabetical order. Any further details can be found in the history section of each climb. The country of origin of the first ascensionist(s) is abbreviated using the ISO 3166-2 two letter code. Refer to the following guide: AR Argentina, AT Austria, AU Australia, BE Belgium, BR Brazil, BG Bulgaria, CA Canada, CH Switzerland, CL Chile, CZ Czech Republic, ES Spain, FR France, DE Germany, GB United Kingdom, IT Italy, IE Ireland, )P japan, NZ New Zealand, NO Norway, PL Poland, RU Russia, Sl Slovenia, US USA, VE Venezuela, ZA South Africa Route descriptions. Descriptions only provide details that cannot be seen in topos or photos. They may also record unusual details about a climb. Included, in many cases, is an assessment of the climb's character, in order to help with route selection. Obviously, these assessments can be highly subjective. History. First ascent details are given for each route. Also included are important repeats, first free ascents, first integral (continuous) ascents, first alpine style ascents, first solo ascents, first winter ascents and, in some cases, first female ascents. The strategy section describes possible bivy sites and the time required to repeat certain climbs. Times are based on a competent party finding good conditions. Approach. In the approach chapter you will find descriptions of the area's most popular approaches, ordered by valley. Refer first to individual route descriptions, where the correct approach is noted. However, within route

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descriptions you will also find details that might not be included in the approach chapter. When several routes on the same wall share a similar approach, the latter is described in the introduction to the wall. Times quoted are for a reasonably fit party, carrying light packs. Gear. Suggestions of what protection might be needed are given with each climb, but keep in mind that selection is a personal choice, based on individual levels of skill and climbing style. Refer to the following for gear description abbreviations: Cam sizes are quoted using Black Diamond Camalots as reference and start from Camalot 0.4. • TCUs refer to cam units smaller than a Camalot 0.4. Many companies make them with either three or four cams. Four-cam units are far more secure in Patagonia's gritty granite. When you see simply "TCUs", this implies taking one set to the smallest size (five cams roughly, in Camalot sizes: 0.3, r, o, oo, ooo). Stoppers or nuts are made by many companies. No indication is given as to what sizes or how many to take. That is for you to judge. RPs, micro stoppers or micro nuts are made by a number of companies under various names. The offset ones are undoubtedly the best and are a great tool to avoid placing pitons. KB Knife blade pitons are made by Black Diamond in several sizes. Many companies make similar blade pitons. LA Lost Arrow pitons are made by Black Diamond in several sizes. • Angles Numerous companies make these U- shaped pitons Peekers or birdbeak-style pitons are made by a number of companies. Black Diamond has several sizes. They are far more practical than knifeblades and can even replace Lost Arrows. Descents are described briefly, in some cases suggesting more than one possible route. Topos of some of the most popular descents, such as the Franco- Argentina, include the exact location of rappel anchors and length of each rappel. In some cases the arrows show the exact location of a rappel, in others they simply point out the general direction. In general, rappel arrows are only included when the descent is not along the route line. Bibliography. In the case of historic or older routes you will also find a biblio graphy related to the first ascent or to important repeats. The names of the magazines and books are often abbreviated; refer to the list below for clarification:

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Mj: American Alpine journal, Golden, Colorado, US (annual). Aj: Alpine journal, Alpine Club, London, GB (annual, 1863- today). Andinismo: Anuario Club Andino Buenos Aires, Argentina (occasional). Alp: magazine, Vivalda Editori, Milano, ltalia (monthly/bimonthly, 1985- today). Alpi Venete: Rassegna Triveneta del Club Alpino ltaliano, Italy (biannual, 1947-today). Alpin: magazine, Olympia Verlag, Niirenberg, Germany (monthly). Alpinisme: CAFA/Groupe de Haute Montagne, France (trimonthly 1927-1955). AeR: Alpinisme et Randonee magazine, various publishers, France (monthly, 1978- 2006). Alpinismus: magazine, Heering Verlag, Miinchen, Germany (monthly, 1962-1981). Alta Montana: magazine, Buenos Aires, Argentina (1990s). Berg: Alpenvereinsjahrbuch, DAY- OAV- AVS, Miinchen -lnnsbruck- Bozen (annual). B SAT: Bolletino della Societa Alpinisti Tridentini, Trento, ltaly (quarterly). CAB Anuario: Club Andino Bariloche, Argentina (annually/occasional). CAB Revista: Club Andino Bariloche, Argentina (occasional 1985- 1990) CABA Boletin: Club Andino Buenos Aires, Argentina (occasional). CAl- RM: Rivista Mensile, Club Alpino Italiano, Milano, Italy (1954-2004?). CAl- AIM: Alpinisti Italiani nell Mondo, Commissione Centrale delle Pubblicazioni, Club Alpino Italiano, Milano, Italy. Climber: magazine, Media Ventures Group, Cheshire, GB (monthly). Climbing: magazine, various publishers, CO, US (bimonthly). Carriere degli ltaliani: Buenos Aires, Argentina (weekly, 1949- 1976). Crags: magazine, Sheffield, GB (bimonthly, 1976-1981). Desnivel: magazine, Madrid, Spain (monthly, 1981 - today). El Hogar: magazine, Editorial Haynes, Buenos Aires, Argentina (weekly, 1904- 196os?). Extrem: magazine, Barcelona, Spain (1981-1996). Gipfelstiirmer: Alpine Gesellschaft Gipfelstiirmer, lnnsbruck, Austria (occasional). GHM: Annales du Groupe de Haute Montagne, Chamonix, France (annual). High: magazine, Greenshires Publishing, Northants, GB (monthly, 1982-2005). lwa to Yuki: magazine, Yama To Keikoku, Tokyo, japan (monthly, to 1990s). Klettern: magazine, Motor Presse, Stuttgart, Germany (eight a year). Montagnes: magazine, various publishers, France (monthly, 1978-today) Mountain: magazine, Sheffield, GB (monthly, 1968-1992). Mountain Craft: magazine, Mountaineering Association, London, GB (bimonthly, late 40's till 1968).

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How to use this guidebook

Mountain Review: magazine, Buxton, Derbyshire, GB (bimonthly, 1993- 1994). Mundo Argentino: magazine, Editorial Haynes, Buenos Aires, Argentina (1930s- 196os?). NG: National Geographic magazine, Washington D.C., US (monthly). NZ A]: New Zealand Alpine Journal, NZ Alpine Club, NZ (annually). L'Europeo: magazine, Res MediaGroup, Italy, (monthly, 1946- 1995). LMelA: La Montagne et le Alpinisme magazine, Club Alpin Franc;:ais, Paris, France (quarterly, 1905-today). La Montana: magazine, Buenos Aires, Argentina (late 1950s-6os). La Prensa: newspaper, Buenos Aires, Argentina (daily, 1869-today). Le Alpi: magazine, Club Alpin Suisse, Switzerland (monthly). Leoplan: magazine, Editorial Sapena, Buenos Aires, Argentina (1935-1965). Lo Scarpone: magazine, Club Alpino Italiano, Milano, ltalia (monthly, 1931wn).

Pareti: magazine, Parma, Italy (1996-today). Penalara: magazine, Real Sociedad Espanola de Alpinismo, Madrid, Spain (monthly). Planinski vestnik: glasilo Planinske zveze Slovenije (Journal of the Slovenian Mountaineering Association), Ljubljana, Slovenia (monthly). Rassegna Alpina: Eurograph Bernardoni, Milano, Italy (bimonthly till 1974). RdM: Rivista della Montagna, Centro Documentazione Alpina, Torino, ltalia (1970- ). R+l: Rock and Ice magazine, various publishers, Colorado, US (eighti ssues a year, 1985-today). Rucksack Club Journal: Rucksack Club, GB (annual). Scandere: CAl- Torino Annuario Alpinistico, Centro Documentazione Alpina, Torino, ltalia (annually/occasional, from 1949). Slovenski alpinizem: Planinska zalozba Slovenije, Slovenia (annually). Summit: magazine,]. Crenshaw- H. Kilner, Big Bear Lake, CA, US (bimonthly 1955- 1989). Taternik: magazine, High Mountain Club-Polish Aline Assoc., Warszawa, Poland (quarterly, 1907-today). Yea y Lea: magazine, Editorial Emilio Ramirez, Buenos Aires, Argentina (1946- 1964). Vertical: magazine, various publishers, Grenoble, France (monthly, 198-today). Vertical Roc: magazine, Glenat Presse, Meylan, France (bimonthly, 200-2003). Wild: magazine, Wild Publications, Victoria, Australia (quarterly).

How to use this guidebook

43

How

TO USE THIS GUIDEBOOK

Topos and photodiagrams

Certain topos in this guidebook are based on information from a number of sources: the first ascensionists, repeat ascents, and the direct experience of the authors. However, many are based on information from only one source. While topos will help you on the way to your adventure, they do not attempt to be overly precise or flawless. A topo is never a substitute for good judgment or experience. Topos mostly use American symbols, which describe granite features better than any other "topo language". In cases where not enough information was available, American topo symbols have been mixed with standard European UIAA symbols. See the topo symbol explanation graph below. In the photodiagrams, every attempt possible was made to mark each route line precisely. However, because the peaks are so big and the massif so vast, there are likely to be mistakes. As with the topos, a line on a photo is not a substitute for good judgment or experience. Topo symbols

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How to use this guidebook

Ridge

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Next to each route you will find a red arrow with the page numbers of photos (PH) and topos (T) that show the route. Example: 10, 117, T 123 Toponyms and early exploration

In r782 Spanish explorer Antonio de Viedma became the first westerner to observe the peaks of the Chalten Massif. Looking from a distance he wrote: "In the back of the bay there are two rocks that look like towers, one higher than the other, their sharp, snow free, tips exceeding in height the surrounding mountains. The indians call them Chaltel," (or Chalten). Unfortunately, other than the name Chaltel or Chalten, meaning smoking mountain, little to no information has survived about the names the Tehuelches, the original inhabitants of the area, might have used. Traces of their passage have not only been found at the edge of the massif but also in the northern slopes of Cerro Huemul. This means they must have ventured deep into the valleys. In the late r8oos Francisco "Perito" Moreno and the members of the "Comisi6n de Limites" were given the task of surveying, mapping and delimiting the border between Argentina and Chile. They observed the area from a distance, without crossing the Rio de las Vueltas, mapping and christening mountains only as far west as Cerros Huemul, Solo and Fitz Roy. In the early I900s, with the arrival of the first western settlers, most valleys were explored and toponyms given to rivers, lakes and some of the surrounding peaks. In I9I6 an expedition led by Alfred Ki:illiker, including Tobias Buechele, Adam Diener, Hans Jorgensen, Dr. Franz Kuhn, Pablo Silbermann, Augusto Tannert, AdolfTomsen and Lutz Witte, carried out a more detailed exploration and survey of the area. They visited the southern and western flanks of the massif, accomplishing the first ascent of Cerro Huemul and exploring the lee Cap. They also reached the continental divide just north of Cordon Mariano Moreno. The expedition produced an excellent book that was published in Buenos Aires with the help of the Sociedad Cientifica Alemana. Ten years later Ki:illiker published his own personal account. This expedition was responsible for many of the area's toponyms. With the exception of Cerro Adela, Ventisquero Quervain and Mariano Moreno, their toponyms are of descriptive nature: Cerros Cajon, El Doblado, Dos Cuemos, Dos Cumbres, Gemelos Blancos, Grande, Murall6n, El Nato and Paso del Viento. Fifteen years later it was the tum of Alberto Maria De Agostini (r883 - r96o), an Italian missionary of the Salesians of Don Bosco order, who was a passionate mountaineer, explorer, geographer and photographer. He visited the area repeatedly during the r930s. In late r930, together with Leone Bron, Evaristo Croux and Egidio Feruglio, he explored the east and SE flanks of the massif.

How to use this guidebook

45

Next to each route you will find a red arrow with the page numbers of photos (PH) and topos (T) that show the route. Example: 10, 117, T 123 Toponyms and early exploration

In 1782 Spanish explorer Antonio de Viedma became the first westerner to observe the peaks of the Chalten Massif. Looking from a distance he wrote: "In the back of the bay there are two rocks that look like towers, one higher than the other, their sharp, snow free, tips exceeding in height the surrounding mountains. The indians call them Chaltel," (or Chalten). Unfortunately, other than the name Chaltel or Chalten, meaning smoking mountain, little to no information has survived about the names the Tehuelches, the original inhabitants of the area, might have used. Traces of their passage have not only been found at the edge of the massif but also in the northern slopes of Cerro Huemul. This means they must have ventured deep into the valleys. In the late 18oos Francisco "Perito" Moreno and the members of the "Comisi6n de Limites" were given the task of surveying, mapping and delimiting the border between Argentina and Chile. They observed the area from a distance, without crossing the Rio de las Vueltas, mapping and christening mountains only as far west as Cerros Huemul, Solo and Fitz Roy. In the early 1900s, with the arrival of the first western settlers, most valleys were explored and toponyms given to rivers, lakes and some of the surrounding peaks. In 1916 an expedition led by Alfred Kolliker, including Tobias Buechele, Adam Diener, Hans jorgensen, Dr. Franz Kuhn, Pablo Silbermann, Augusto Tannert, AdolfTomsen and Lutz Witte, carried out a more detailed exploration and survey of the area. They visited the southern and western flanks of the massif, accomplishing the first ascent of Cerro Huemul and exploring the lee Cap. They also reached the continental divide just north of Cordon Mariano Moreno. The expedition produced an excellent book that was published in Buenos Aires with the help of the Sociedad Cientifica Alemana. Ten years later Kolliker published his own personal account. This expedition was responsible for many of the area's toponyms. With the exception of Cerro Adela, Ventisquero Quervain and Mariano Moreno, their toponyms are of descriptive nature: Cerros Cajon, El Doblado, Dos Cuernos, Dos Cumbres, Gemelos Blancos, Grande, Murall6n, El Nato and Paso del Viento. Fifteen years later it was the turn of Alberto Maria De Agostini (1883- 1960), an Italian missionary of the Salesians of Don Bosco order, who was a passionate mountaineer, explorer, geographer and photographer. He visited the area repeatedly during the 1930s. In late 1930, together with Leone Bron, Evaristo Croux and Egidio Feruglio, he explored the east and SE flanks of the massif.

How to use this guidebook

45

The following summer he returned with Mario Derriard to explore the NW side of the massif, an area to which he returned in 1933. ln 1935-36 he was back, exploring the Cordon Marconi. Throughout those numerous trips he filled in all the blanks on the map. He was also the author of several books, including Andes Patagonicos (1941), a work that more than any other helped spark the interest of European climbers. Unfortunately, he had many church heroes to celebrate, so the scenery is now littered with his religious toponyms, names such as Cerros Cagliero, Milanesio, Piergiorgio, Vespignani and the Glaciar Pio XL Regarding De Agostini, the renowned Italian alpinist Walter Bonatti wrote: "Everything l knew about the Patagonian Cordillera l had learned from the man who, more than any other, had been closely linked to these lands, having devoted to them forty -five years of intense and careful research - the Salesian father, Alberto De Agostini ... To this pioneer figure, the explorer and student of Patagonia, l give my thanks. lt was through his invaluable work that l was able to understand and to face the problems of this fascinating corner of the earth." Madrid born French cartographer, geologist and glaciologist Luis Lliboutry (1922 - 2006) was part of the 1952 French expedition that completed the first ascent of Cerro FitzRoy. He is responsible for the first exhaustive study of the area, including its first complete and detailed mapping. He is also responsible for a large majority of the toponyms in use today. Some of these are: Gl. Adela, Ag. Bifida, Castillo Negro, Ag. Cuatro Dedos, Gl. Grande, Ag. Guillaumet, Filo del Hombre Sentado, Co. Madsen, Ag. Mermoz, El Mocho, Mojon Rojo, Ag. Poincenot, Agujas del Rio Tunel, Ag. Saint- Exupery, Ag. de la Silla, Lag. Sucia, Techado Negro, Gl. Torre, Lag. Torre and Punta Velluda. Bibliography. Kolliker: Patagonia - Resultado de las expediciones realizadas en 1910- 16; Colaboradores: Cristobal Hicken, Alfred Kolliker, Franz Kuhn, Fritz Reichert, Adolfo Tomsen and Lutz Witte; Buenos Aires 1917 - Sociedad Cientifica Alemana; Kolliker A. (1926) ln den Einsamkeiten Patagoniens, Strecker und Schroder, Stuttgart. De Agostini: De Agostini A. M. (1941) Andes Patagonicos, Bs. As, Argentina; De Agostini A. M. (1941) Andes Patagonicos, Societa Cartografica Giovanni De Agostini, Milano; Bonatti W. (1979) On the Heights, Diadem Books, London. Lliboutry: Lliboutry L. (1952) Estudio Cartografico, Geologico y Glaciologico de la Zona del Fitz Roy, Facultad de Filosofia y Letras, Buenos Aires, Argentina.

46

How to use t his guidebook

BRIEF CLIMBING HISTORY

Brief Climbing History

Most of the climbing history appears within the route descriptions. What follows is a short overview. The 1916 expedition led by Alfred Kolliker was the first to reach summits of importance, climbing Cerros Huemul and Azara, and making an impressive traverse on the lee Cap, reaching the continental divide north of Cordon Mariano Moreno. ln the 1930s De Agostini followed suit, with ascents of Cerro Electrico and Lorna Blanca. ln 1937 a strong Italian team led by Count Aldo Bonacossa, including Ettore Castiglioni, Leo Dubose and Giovanni Gilberti, made the first serious attempt to climb Cerro Fitz Roy. They reached La Brecha de los ltalianos, completing the first technical climbing achieved in the area, pitching the ascent and placing protection. Later they completed the first ascent of Cerro El Nato. ln 1948 and 1949 Hans Zechner, an Austrian living in Argentina, attempted Cerro Fitz Roy via its west and SW faces, reaching the crest of the Filo del Hombre Sentado. During his second expedition he accomplished the first ascent of Cerro Pallone. Photographs in De Agostini's book, Andes Patagonicos, inspired Rene Ferlet to organize an expedition in 1952 to climb Cerro Fitz Roy. The team included the finest French alpinists of the time, amongst them Guido Magnone and Lionel Terray, who would become the first to set foot on Fitz Roy's summit. The same year a large Argentine expedition lead by Bruno Guth succeeded on Cerros Marconi Norte and Domo Blanco. ln 1958 Italians Walter Bonatti and Carlo Mauri, with the help of Folco Dora Altan, made the first serious attempt to climb Cerro Torre, reaching a point 450 meters below the summit via the west face. During this expedition they also completed the first ascent of Cerro Mariano Moreno and made an impressive traverse of Cordon Adela. The same season an expedition from Trento, led by the legendary Bruno Detassis and including Cesare Maestri, climbed two summits of Cordon Adela. A year later Maestri returned with Austrian Toni Egger, climbing 300 meters on Cerro Torre's east face before retreating. Egger died during the descent and Maestri went on to claim that they had reached the summit. ln 1965 and 1968 Argentine jose Luis Fonrouge sent a loud and clear message with daring alpine style ascents of the Supercanaleta on Cerro Fitz Roy and the south face of Aguja Poincenot, completing the second ascent of both peaks. The style in which Fonrouge climbed was well ahead of its time. Earlier in 1968 Fonrouge and a large English team made a valiant attempt on Cerro Torre's SE ridge, reaching a point 450 meters below the summit. ln 1970, soon after Carlo Mauri publicly cast doubt on Maestri's 1959 claim, Maestri returned to Cerro Torre. With the help of a helicopter, endless

Brief Climbing History

47

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BRIEF CLIMBING HISTORY

amount of fixed rope, a motorized drill and 400 bolts he reached a point 6o meters below the summit via the SE ridge, a quixotic effort that epitomized the worst traits of conquest -style alpinism. The mid 70s brought Casimiro Ferrari and his Ragni di Lecco partners onto the scene. Ferrari, Daniele Chiappa, Mario Conti and Pino Negri accomplished the first ascent of Cerro Torre. In the ensuing years Ferrari and the Ragni completed many other significant ascents, including the impressive east pillar of Fitz Roy. During this same period North American and British mountaineers left their mark. Included was the first ascent of the area's hardest peak, Torre Egger, carried out by Americans john Bragg, jim Donini and Dave Wilson in capsule style. Donini and Ferrari remained active in the area for the following 25 years. In 1979 American Jim Bridwell climbed Maestri's manufactured path up the SE ridge of Cerro Torre, completing the first ascent of the so-called Compressor Route. In the ensuing years this became the normal route, a development that exposed the desire of many climbers to reach the summit at ar cost, wfth little attention as to whether or not they engaged with the natural ifficulties of the mountain. That same year Italian maestro Rena to Casarotto completed the first solo ascent of Cerro Fitz Roy via a difficult new route on the Goretta Pillar. This was without a doubt the most impressive solo ascent in the history of the area. In early 1981 Englishmen Phil Burke and Tom Proctor completed some of the hardest climbing ever achieved in the area during an impressive attempt to climb the east and north face of Cerro Torre, reaching a point 20 meters shy of the Ragni route. Like Bragg, Donini and Wilson, and like Kelly and Wyvill who had tried the line before them, they climbed capsule style, relying on some fixed ropes but committing to the wall for the bulk of the ascent. This style was a clear step forward, but the message fell on deaf ears and 1for the ensuing decade most major new routes were climbed exclusively using fixed ropes, breaking the challenge presented by the height of the rock faces and peaks into more manageable pieces. In the 1980s Slovenians )anez )eglic, Silvo Karo and Francek Knez exploded on to the scene, climbing some of the hardest routes to date, the Directisima delinfierno on Cerro Torre's east face and Psycho Vertical on Torre Egger's south face. A year later )eglic and Karo upped the ante with an impressive ascent of the south face of Cerro Torre, an incredibly difficult line. Karo stayed active in the area until the mid 2000s, making impressive ascents such as the Slovene Sit-Start to Cerro Torre. Italians Maurizio Giarolli, Elio Orlandi, Ermanno Salvaterra and Andrea Sarchi also came onto the scene in the 1980s, completing numerous ascents. Shunning the fixed ropes that had brought success to the Slovenes and the

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Brief Climbing History

Ragni, Salvaterra completed some of the most impressive ascents to date, including lnfinito Sud on Cerro Torre's south face, Quinque Anni ad Paradisum on Cerro Torre's east face, El Area de los Vientos on Cerro Torre's north side, La Gioconda and Spigolo dei Bimbi on Punta Herron. He also made many valiant attempts on the Travesia del Torre. For 25 years he ventured into these mountains with unrelenting passion. ln rg85 Giarolli, Salvaterra and Sarchi, with Paolo Caruso, made the first winter ascent of Cerro Torre via the Compressor Route. A year later 17-year-old Argentine climber Sebastian de la Cruz, with Gabriel Ruiz, completed the first winter ascent of Cerro Fitz Roy via the Supercanaleta. ln late rg85 Swiss Marco Pedrini made the first solo ascent of Cerro Torre, climbing the Compressor Route. Some years earlier Bill Denz (NZ) first, and Pierre Farges (FR) later, had narrowly missed this target, both reaching the headwall on more than one occasion. The late 8os and gos brought American jay Smith and Austrians Tommy Bonapace and Toni Ponholzer to the area. Smith made first ascents of Agujas Desmochada and Standhardt, an impressive new route on Torre Egger with Conrad Anker and Steve Gerberding, as well as routes on El Mocho and Aguja Poincenot. Bonapace and Ponholzer revived Fonrouge's approach to alpinism and, climbing in perfect alpine style, made many impressive ascents and bold attempts, including the first winter ascent of Aguja Standhardt. just like Smith, Swiss Peter Luthi also hunted unclimbed summits, with first ascents of Agujas Bifida, De la Silla and Guillaumet's south summit. ln rggo japanese Yasushi Yamanoi brought the house down with a solo winter ascent of the Californiana on Cerro Fitz Roy. One climber remaining active throughout the period from the early rggos to the present day is Czech Michal Pitelka. His El Corazon on Cerro Fitz Roy is one of the best lines in the massif. ln the mid to late rggos Germans Kurt Albert and Bernd Arnold opened three new routes using fixed ropes and a powerdrill, placing hundreds of bolts next to cracks. They hoped to create routes that could comfortably be repeated, a contradiction in such an inhospitable environment. While their dumbing- down of natural lines is questionable, they were uncompromising in their attempt to climb completely free, bringing hard freeclimbing to the area for the first time. During the late rggos alpine style climbing stopped being a rare occurrence on routes other than the classics, with repeats of most of the long routes on Cerro Fitz Roy's north, west and SW face in fine style. American Doug Byerly and Argentine Rolando Garibotti made the first complete ascent ofTehuelche alpine style.

Brief Climbing History

51

BRIEF CLIMBING HISTORY

ln July of 1999, Swiss David Fasel, Stefan Siegrist and Thomas Ulrich, with American Gregory Crouch made the first winter ascent of the Ragni route on Cerro Torre. ln 2002 American Dean Potter made impressive solo ascents of Cerro Fitz Roy's Supercanaleta and Californiana, both in incredibly fast times. That same season he also soloed the Compressor route on Cerro Torre. The same year Americans Timmy O'Neill and Nathan Martin completed the first alpine style ascent of Torre Egger and climbed an important new route in the SW face of Fitz Roy in the same style ln 2007 Americans Kelly Cordes and Colin Haley completed the coveted first link- up of Los Tiempos Perdidos and the Ragni route on Cerro Torre. A year later Garibotti and Haley ticked the much -tried Travesia del Torre. Twenty years after the first attempt, a big project was finally put to rest. ln 2005 Garibotti had joined Salvaterra and Alessandro Beltrami in the first ascent of Cerro Torre from the north, via the new route El Area de los Vientos. ln early 2008 Americans Crystal Davis- Robbins and Max Hasson put up an impressive new route on the north face ofFitz Roy, while soon after Americans Dana Drummond and Freddie Wilkinson climbed the Care Bear, a long traverse from Aguja Guillaumet to Cerro Fitz Roy. A difficult and much tried line on the NW face of Cerro Piergiorgio fell to Italians Herve Barmasse and Cristian Brenna. They climbed expedition style, completing the ascent with many fixed ropes, placed over more than one season, which they were unable to retrieve. During the 2008-09 season Cerro Torre saw more ascents via the Ragni than via the Compressor route. lt was as if the community, finally, had come to understand that when climbing a peak, how you climb actually matters. Swiss Walter Hungerbiihler soloed the Ragni route that season, completing the first solo ascent of the peak without using the Compressor route bolts. ln early 20IO Argentines Jorge Ackermann, Tomas Aguila and Luciano Fiorenza climbed an important new route on the west face of Cerro Fitz Roy. Later in the year Swiss climbers Dani Arnold, Thomas Senf and Stefan Siegrist made the first winter ascent of Torre Egger. The search for lines of strength led to more link-ups and in 20II Americans Whit Magro, Nate Opp and Josh Wharton linked Agujas Desmochada and De la Silla with Cerro Fitz Roy. This ascent was of particular significance, because the leader climbed every pitch free (seconds on jumars). Scott Bennett and Cheyne Lempe's North Pillar Sit Start followed, an incredibly long link-up from Aguja Mermoz to Cerro Fitz Roy. ln the last years Haley has soloed everything in sight, including Aguja Standhardt, Cerro Fitz Roy and six other peaks in the Fitz Roy group.

52

Brief Climbing History

ln 2008 and 2012, while everyone else was looking for clean rock, Norwegian Bj0rn- Eivind Artun climbed two of the most impressive ice lines in the area, Hvit Linje on the Gran Barrera and Venas Azules on Torre Egger. He also completed a rs-hour Niponino -to -summit ascent of the Ragni route on Cerro Torre. Slowly, virgin ground is being eliminated, either in the form of inspiring, independent or mostly independent lines, or with variations, branching off from, joining and crisscrossing existing lines. Time will tell which of these lines end up being relevant and worth repeating. ln 2012 American Hayden Kennedy and Canadian jason Kruk completed the much -tried natural line up theSE ridge of Cerro Torre. During the descent they chopped much of the Compressor route, making the route unclimbable. Some mourned the loss of a cultural asset, others celebrated the recovery of the mountain's natural character and challenge. A manufactured path such as the Compressor route did not belong in alpinism or in a mountain as wildly inspiring as Cerro Torre. A few days later Austrian David Lama completed a free ascent of the SE ridge. Only a helicopter and a film crew diminished an otherwise impressive ascent. ln 2006 Americans Tommy Caldwell and Topher Donahue set the bar high with an alpine style, on- sight free ascent of Unea de Eleganza on the uoo-meter east face of Cerro FitzRoy, the leader climbing free and the seconds following on jumars. This was the basis for Belgians Nico Favresse and Sean Villanueva's 20n impressive on-sight free ascent of the Pilar Este to El Coraz6n link-up on the same face. Here, both the leader and follower climbed free. Favresse and Villanueva's ascent perhaps best epitomizes what will hopefully be the future of climbing in this massif, alpine style, free and without jumars, a style that accepts all aspects of the natural challenge that these peaks present and that can hardly be improved.

Brief Climbing History

53

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APPROACHES

Below you will find short descriptions of the area's most popular approaches. They are ordered by valley. Refer to individual route descriptions, where the correct approach is noted. ln the case of several routes on the same wall that all share a similar approach, this access is described in the introduction to the wall. VALLE DEL RiO TUNEL

Laguna Toro (ca. 6som). The trail leading to Laguna Toro starts from the National Park Visitor Centre and takes four to five hours. Glaciar Ttinel. Contour Laguna Toro on its north side, crossing the river that flows into it (knee to thigh high at times) and follow cairns up rock domes and moraines to reach the southern edge of the glacier. Now head north up the glacier to approach Cerro Grande's south face, or NW to approach the west faces of Punta Luca and Punta Mini Torre, and the east side of Agujas del Rio Tunel. Paso del Viento (ca. 1400m). Hop onto the Glaciar Tunel and stay on its south side until it starts to drop into a small basin with a lake. Make a horizontal traverse across unstable moraine to find a faint path. This gains 250 meters, before making a long rising traverse west to reach the pass. Three to four hours from Laguna Toro to the Paso del Viento. To reach the west flanks of Cordon Adela or Agujas del Rio Tunel, descend west to a long narrow lake that has a group of boulders immediately to the north, the Vivac Ferrari. From here follow cairns NW up and over a number of moraine ridges to two small lakes. Skirt these on the east side to reach the edge of the Glaciar Viedma and the Ice Cap. VALLE DEL RiO FITZ ROY - CERRO TORRE VALLEY

Rio Fitz Roy flows from Laguna Torre and the glaciers in the Cerro Torre Valley. Campamento De Agostini (ca. 620m). This site is reached in 1:40 hours from El Chalten (ca. 400m), following an obvious trail that starts west of the

56

Valle del Rio Tunel

town. There are two starts to this trail, both equally as long. The camp is named in memory of Alberto Maria de Agostini, responsible for many early exploratory visits to the area. De Agostini has two camps named after him, the other being Piedra del Fraile (friar's rock). The De Agostini camp was formerly known as Campamento Bridwell, in honor of American climber jim Bridwell, but Cesarino Fava secured an official name-change sometime in the late rggos. Quite likely Aldo Bonacossa and partners were the first to camp there, in I937· Torre Valley The Torre Valley has three distinct glacial tongues, which are named, from south to north, Glaciar Grande, Glaciar Adela and Glaciar Torre. These are separated by prominent medial moraines. Paso Tunel-Glaciar Grande Superior- Cordon Adela Contour Laguna Torre to reach the Glaciar Grande (see Glaciar Grande west side approach below) and wander up its southern flank to reach a snowfield leading to the Paso Tunel (ca. I940m). A short distance from the pass head west to tackle a snow gully (50°) just north of the ridge. This gully, rising through a rocky outcrop immediately left of many seracs, gives access to the Glaciar Grande Superior, a broad plateau. Three to five hours from Campo De Agostini to the plateau. Niponino (ca. rooom). Climbers have camped in the area known as Niponino since I959· The name Niponino dates to the early 2000s and means "neither Polacos nor Noruegos." Earlier names were La Pizza, after a large boulder nearby, and La Playa, after the sandy ground. Niponino is located directly below El Mochito, the short cliff below El Mocho, and lies on the prominent medial moraine between the Glaciar Adela and the Glaciar Torre. There are two possible routes up the Glaciar Grande to reach Niponino, following either the west or east side. Until 20II the west side was the preferred, easier route, but glacier recession has now compromised the descent onto the glacier, making an

Valle del Rfo Fitz Roy

57

80,90

59, 90

APPROACHES

approach up the east side more appealing. That said, the east side approach is far from easy, involving much boulder hopping. Ask for the latest information at the guides offices in El Chalten.

page Cerro Adela and Cerro Torre Group from the east.

Glaciar Grande west side approach Cross the Tyrolean over the Rio Fitz Roy (harness required) and follow a climber's path that rises and then contours Laguna Torre. Where the forest ends, drop straight down to the front of the glacier, making a scary traverse across unstable moraine. Once level with the glacier, stay on moraines to its left (heading NW), scrambling up and over a rock dome to reach two large creeks (qo to 2 hours from the Tyrolean). Hop onto the glacier, gain roo meters of elevation to where the glacier gets almost flat, then head toward El Mocho. Pass a medial moraine leading onto the Glaciar Adela and reach a second medial moraine in the vicinity of El Mocho. The glacier is dry and can usually be trekked in lightweight shoes. However, there are times when crampons may be required. Three to four hours from Campamento De Agostini to Niponino. Glaciar Grande east side approach From De Agostini go round the lake to reach a small valley between the glacier and the side moraine. If you are coming from El Chalten, you can save a significant amount of time by hiking to Campamento Prestadores, then following an old trail up toward Mirador Maestri, and finally dropping down to the lakeshore. Follow a faint valley between the glacier and the moraine, weaving around an infinite amount of loose rock. Once you can see El Mochito, move left into the center of the glacier. Three to four hours from Campamento De Agostini to Niponino. Glaciar Adela Superior (ca. r65om). From Niponino there are two options:

59,90

N la Hike directly up the glacier, which can only be done early in the season and after a particularly snowy winter.

58

Valle del Rfo Fitz Roy

Nlb Hike toward Noruegos until past an initial steep section (loose moraine), then head left to the base ofEl Mocha's east face. Contour below it and make a long traverse across a snow ramp at the base of El Macho's south face. This is safer but more time consuming than Nla.

• PH 59, 90

Noruegos-Glaciar Torre Superior N2 From Niponino continue up the glacier for a few hundred meters to a ravine leading through steep moraine to a small glacier and a snowfield north of El Mocho. The moraine is extremely loose and dangerous. The glacier

• PH 59, 90

APPROACHES

and snowfield are contoured via a faint path up sandy ground to the right (north) . Two hundred meters below Aguja de la Medial una there are several big boulders on the right. These form the bivy sites known as Noruegos. This camp is named after Norwegian climbers Aslak Aastorp and 0yvind Vadla, who visited the area in the late 1980s and spent a lot of time camped at this spot. Although they were not the first to overnight there, and they did not give the location a name, their presence resulted in a name that has stuck over time. Reaching the Glaciar Torre Superior from Noruegos is fairly straightforward. Hike up the crest of the glacial half moon situated to the right of Aguja de la Medial una

60

(to 6oo), then move left, crossing ere\ traverse back right, reaching the fla- ::. the peaks. This section of glacier is roping up is mandatory. You can also head north from - ·i cier, to a point where the base of_-\ becomes visible. At that point hearl broken glacier to reach the base of - the base of the peaks to reach the Cerro Torre. This is the preferred r -=son, but only when using skis. Eit:h three hours from Niponino to the and the base of Cerro Torre's east fen:·_

-oured via a faint path up sandy orrh). Two hundred meters below there are several big boulders on e bivy sites known as Noruegos. :"Jorwegian climbers Aslak :Zdla, who visited the area in the t of time camped at this spot. the firs t to overnight there, and location a name, their presence ': Tia: has stuck over time. -Torre Superior from Noruegos :-a.. Hike up the crest of the glacial :o ;:he right of Aguja de la Medial una

(to 60°), then move left, crossing crevasses, to make a long traverse back right, reaching the flat glacier at the base of the peaks. This section of glacier is heavily crevassed, so roping up is mandatory. You can also head north from Niponino, up the glacier, to a point where the base of Aguja Standhardt first becomes visible. At that point head west, negotiating a broken glacier to reach the base of Standhardt, skirting the base of the peaks to reach the base of the east face of Cerro Torre. This is the preferred route early in the season, but only when using skis. Either way it takes two to three hours from Niponino to the Glaciar Torre Superior and the base of Cerro Torre's east face.

Fitz Roy Group from the SW.

61

APPROACHES

59, 90-91, 156

60-61

Edgard Kopcke and partners at Polacos in 1969. 61,335

Col Standhardt (ca. 22oom). N3 The glacial tongue leading to the Col Standhardt can be reached by heading north from Niponino, up the glacier, to a point where the base of Aguja Standhardt first becomes visible. At that point head west, negotiating a broken glacier to reach the base of Standhardt. The last bergschrund before the Col Standhardt is usually crossed on the right. Above, climb easy snow (2oom, 6oo) to the col. Dangerous wind slab can often form before the bergschrund and right below the col. Three to four hours from Niponino to the Col Standhardt. It is also possible to approach the base of Aguja Standhardt via Noruegos, Glaciar Torre Superior, and the vicinity of Cerro Torre's east face (N2), before traversing below the foot of Torre Egger. The descent from the Col Standhardt to Circo de los Altares can be completed in a little over one hour. First make three rappels and then hike down a glacial tongue to the north, negotiating a short steep section (55°). Campamento Polacos (ca. noom). Although this camp was first used by an Argentine expedition in late 1969, it is named after a 1986 Polish expedition that attempted Poincenot's SW ridge. From Niponino hike NE, negotiating a very loose moraine, to gain a small valley and rocky plateau 150 meters above the glacier and immediately below the Couloir Rafael Juarez. The old Campamento Polacos is now defunct, having fallen down the moraine. However, there is a comfortable sandy plateau directly above, with several boulders that provide suitable bivy spots. One hour from Niponino to Campamento Polacos. N4 Couloir Rafael Juarez and Col SUSAT. In 1958 Luciano Eccher and Cesare Maestri climbed to the col between Aguja Poincenot and Aguja Rafael Juarez, christening it Forcella (col) SUSAT, after the university climbing group to which they belonged - Sezione Universitaria Societa degli Alpinisti Tridentini (B SAT 1958/2 p. 3- 8). From Polacos hike up and left to an obvious right leaning ramp that allows you to bypass the initial steep step of the Couloir

62

Valle del Rfo Fitz Roy

Rafael Juarez. The couloir (6oom. r' 2 Aguja Poincenot's SW face and A and west face (qo hours from Pola

the col between Aguja Saint- ExuJJei! Austrians Hans Barnthaler and E 1987. To reach the base of Aguja north faces, cross the Couloir Rafae up a right leaning break (2) to a br easy snowfields. From there, con · _e Austriacos by climbing the couloir--, base of Aguja Saint- Exupery's wesr - _ One and a half hours from Polacos -o Saint-Exupery's west face, 2:30 hours Austriacos. Couloir Poincenot The steep couloir between Aguja !Je:s Poincenot is known as the Couloir vides access to the south and east chada, the south face of Aguja de Ia of Aguja Poincenot. Sections of the from the small glacier at the base o sporadically break off, sweeping the Although some parties might be ha . the serac, most will seek to avoid i • of possible lines to its left (north ,. From Niponino head north, the base of the couloir (no need to There are three main options to reaci part way up the couloir, at the base o-= chada's SW face (ca. 1900m), all of \ difficult to find in the dark. N6a Walk up left to a couloir direc;:. mochada's west face. Climb it and a (8om, 4) to reach the broad ledge be chada's SW face. This couloir has so but is the fastest of the three optior:s. Niponino.

Rafael Juarez. The couloir (6oom, 35° 2) gives access to Aguja Poincenot's SW face and Aguja Rafael Juarez's north and west face (1:30 hours from Polacos).

randhardt is usually crossed (20om, 60°) to the ': :ah often fo rm before the berge col. Three to four hours from

"'!

_

ach rhe base of Aguja ciar Torre Superior, and the iace (:./2), before traversing

:..irrle over one hour. First f±e:i hUe down a glacial tongue to --.:steep section (55°).

ed by an Argentine expedi-- a...-Ter a rg86 Polish expedition :ridge. 7 uegotiating a very loose moarai rocky plateau rso meters below the Couloir

Juirez, christening it uni:Yersity climbing group c--- Seziorre lJniversitaria Societa 1958/ 2 p. 3-8). From Pola- right leaning ramp that steep step of the Couloir

NS Col de los Austrfacos. The Col de los Austriacos is the col between Aguja Saint- Exupery and Aguja del'S. Austrians Hans Bamthaler and Ewald Lidl christened it in 1987. To reach the base of Aguja Saint-Exupery's west and north faces, cross the Couloir Rafael Juarez and scramble up a right leaning break (2) to a broad boulder field and easy snowfields. From there, continue to the Col de los Austriacos by climbing the couloir that slashes across the base of Aguja Saint- Exupery's west face (3oom, 3 40°). One and a half hours from Polacos to the base of Aguja Saint-Exupery's west face, 2:30 hours to the Col de los Austriacos.

61, 342, 352

Couloir Poincenot The steep couloir between Aguja Desmochada and Aguja Poincenot is known as the Couloir Poincenot and provides access to the south and east faces of Aguja Desmacharla, the south face of Aguja de la Silla and north face of Aguja Poincenot. Sections of the large serac that hangs from the small glacier at the base of Fitz Roy's south face sporadically break off, sweeping the length of the couloir. Although some parties might be happy climbing under the serac, most will seek to avoid it by following a number of possible lines to its left (north). From Niponino head north, hiking up loose moraine to the base of the couloir (no need to pass through Polacos). There are three main options to reach the broad ledge part way up the couloir, at the base of Aguja Desmacharla's SW face (ca. rgoom), all of which are complex and difficult to find in the dark. N6a Walk up left to a couloir directly below Aguja Desmochada's west face. Climb it and a short steep section (8om, 4) to reach the broad ledge below Aguja Desmacharla's SW face. This couloir has some rockfall danger but is the fastest of the three options. Three hours from Niponino.

Va lle del Rfo Fitz Roy

60, 280, 318

63

APPROACHES

60, 318

N6b Scramble up a right leaning ramp at the bottom left of the buttress immediately left of the Couloir Poincenot, zigzagging up it (3oom, 3- 4) to reach the broad ledge below Aguja Desmochada's SW face.

60

N6c Scramble up the crest of the buttress immediately

left of the Couloir Poincenot (300m, 3- 4). To reach the base of Aguja Poincenot's north face and Aguja Desmochada's east face from the base of Aguja Desmochada's SW face, traverse right to the far, south edge of the Couloir Poincenot, then climb a short steep step (3om, s+, some pitons in place) before returning back left across easy snow. Both traverses are exposed to serac fall from above. Five hours from Niponino. From this point in the couloir it is possible to continue up to the base of Cerro Fitz Roy's south face. To do this, climb an ice smear below the right side of the serac. In 1969 E. Ki:ipcke, A. Naccachian and G. Vieiro (AR) became the first party to do this, when they attempted to link the Couloir Poincenot to the Californiana. In 2001 Dean Potter (US) succeeded, completing a link-up he dubbed Californian Roulette.

60, 280, 292, 300

Col Puerta Blanca (ca. 2300m). N7 The "approach" to the Col Puerta Blanca, the Silla- Desmochada col, is a long and complex alpine route. From Niponino head north, up the Glaciar Torre to an easy right leaning ramp leading to the base of a steep grey pillar. The ramp is exposed to stone fall. The pillar involves five pitches with difficulties to 6a, followed by five more pitches with difficulties to 5, and then much scrambling to reach the col. This approach was first followed in reverse by). Bridwell, G. Dunmire and). Smith (US), while descending from Aguja Desmochada. It was later climbed almost in its entirety by T. Bonapace, T. Ponholzer and C. Zenz (AT) during attempts to climb Aguja de la Silla's west face . In 2007, and during an ascent of Aguja Desmochada, Alexander Huber (DE) and Mario Walder (AT) climbed it in its entirety and named the col. Eight or more hours from Niponino to the Col Puerta Blanca.

64

Valle del Rio Fitz Roy

Filo del Hombre Sentado (ca. 1950 Filo del Hombre Sentado (sitting mar; between Cerro Fitz Roy's west face giorgio. Climbing over this ridge fro provides access to the base of Cerro F: north faces, and the Glaciar Fitz Ro_- _ consuming approach, but one that times to climb routes such as Super and Tehuelche. N8a Although more difficult, this r safer and faster (7oom, 45° 4). N8b For years this left leaning ram route (7oom, 55° 2).

From the crest of the ridge an eas; by a snow slope (35°) lead down to e naleta. Three and a half to four hours the base of Supercanaleta.

Boquete del Piergiorgio (ca. 18oorn. The broad pass between Filo del Cerro Piergiorgio is known as Boque-

=

w:;:::: ri2ning ramp at the bottom left _ left of the Couloir Poincenot, -.!\to reach the broad ledge ·face.

Filo del Hombre Sentado (ca. I950m), SW face. Fila del Hombre Sentado (sitting man ridge) is the ridge between Cerro Fitz Roy's west face and Boquete del Piergiorgio. Climbing over this ridge from the Torre Valley provides access to the base of Cerro Fitz Roy's west and north faces, and the Glaciar Fitz Roy Norte. It is a time consuming approach, but one that has been used many times to climb routes such as Supercanaleta, Afanassieff and Tehuelche. N8a Although more difficult, this relatively direct line is safer and faster (7oom, 45° 4). N8b For years this left leaning ramp was the preferred route (7oom, 55° 2).

From the crest of the ridge an easy scramble followed by a snow slope (35°) lead down to the base ofSupercanaleta. Three and a half to four hours from Niponino to the base of Supercanaleta.

60, 65, 280

Filo del Hombre Sentado and Boquete del Piergiorgio from the south.

Boquete del Piergiorgio (ca. r8oom). The broad pass between Fila del Hombre Sentado and Cerro Piergiorgio is known as Boquete del Piergiorgio. erta Blanca, the •;:, and complex alpine route. -?me Glaciar Torre to an :;;5 che base of a steep ....-.rr,""-1 •o stone fall. The pillar ·es to 6a, followed by five -.and then much scramh was first followed in ). Smith (US), while lt was later climbed Sch.apace, T. Ponholzer and C. b .-\guja de la Silla's west :of Aguja Desmochada, \'alder (AT) climbed __ .:oL Eight or more hours

Valle del Rfo FitzRoy

60, 65, 280

65

APPROACHES

This is where the Glaciar Fitz Roy Norte and the Glaciar Torre begin. It is also the drainage divide for the Fitz Roy and Electrico rivers. In 1937 Aldo Bonacossa and partners (IT) christened it Paso Fitz Roy but some years later it was renamed. De Agostini discovered the existence of this pass in 1931 and realized that the Cerro Torre and Fitz Roy groups were not connected, as previously thought. 65

N9 Boquete del Piergiorgio is used to approach Cerro Piergiorgio and Cerro Pallone from the Torre Valley. Climb up the right side of the icefall (6oo to 70°, depending on the conditions). Three hours from Niponino to the top of the pass. To descend from Boquete del Piergiorgio to the Torre Valley, find a rappel station (two bolts) on the south side of the rock spur just east of the icefall. Make five 30- meter rappels. It is also possible to downclimb the icefall.

Piedra Negra and Paso del Cuadrado from the north.

VALLE DEL RfO ELECTRICO

Piedra del Fraile (ca. 530m). Piedra del Fraile is located The name is a tribute to Alberto _ _ camped there several times in the is located on private land and a fee :: and hiking in this area (U$25 in earl:-:.:::

Piedra Negra (ca. 15oom). A climbers' trail heads SW from Pi steep slope immediately left of a Glaciar Guillaumet. A series of bivy __ left of the front of the Glaciar Guillar::::::-Piedra Negra. There is a small cree from Piedra del Fraile. Pl Paso Guillaumet (ca. 2100) is the Aguja Guillaumet's NE ridge. Follo .- -:. __ glacier and then head up steep talus -

Castillo

page 67 ._ Fitz Roy Group from the NW.

66

Valle del Rfo Fitz Roy

V

e

-

:-:zz Roy Norte and the Glaciar _._,drainage divide for the FitzRoy ,j .-\ldo Bonacossa and partners l«ly but some years later it was .:o"·ered the existence of this '"' t:he Cerro Torre and Fitz Roy -= as previously thought. ·- used to approach Cerro ::::e fro m the Torre Valley. : -:...e icefall (6oo to 70°, dependours fro m Niponino to the Piergiorgio to the Torre •o bolts) on the south side

:_-...e icefall. Make five 30-meter -nclimb the icefall.

VALLE DEL RiO ELECTRICO Piedra del Fraile (ca. 530m).

Piedra del Fraile is located alongside the Rio Electrico. The name is a tribute to Alberto Maria De Agostini, who camped there several times in the 1930s. Piedra del Fraile is located on private land and a fee is charged for camping and hiking in this area (U$25 in early 2012). Piedra Negra (ca. rsoom). A climbers' trail heads SW from Piedra del Fraile up a very steep slope immediately left of a creek flowing from the Glaciar Guillaumet. A series of bivy spots immediately left of the front of the Glaciar Guillaumet are known as Piedra Negra. There is a small creek nearby. Two hours from Piedra del Fraile.

66

Pl Paso Guillaumet (ca. 2100) is the saddle at the base of Aguja Guillaumet's NE ridge. Follow the east side of the glacier and then head up steep talus toward the base of

66, 67, 209, 223

Valle del Rio Electrico

67

APPROACHES

Guillaumet's north face . On the left a short couloir leads to the pass. One and a half hours from Piedra Negra. 66, 67, 206, 228

66,67

P2 Agujas Mermoz and Guillaumet west faces approach. Cut diagonally across the Glaciar Guillaumet to a small saddle at the base of Guillaumet's NW ridge. Cross the saddle and traverse easy slabs (2- 4, pitons in place) to a low angle snowfield. Two hours from Piedra Negra.

P3 Paso del Cuadrado (ca. 1750m) and Glaciar FitzRoy Norte . From the base of the Glaciar Guillaumet head west to a pass located immediately right of a box shaped rock (El Cuadrado). Descend the west side of the pass fo r 300 meters to reach the Glaciar Fitz Roy Norte. Stay on the east side of this glacier, negotiating crevasses directly below the steep slabs at the bottom of Mermoz's NW ridge, and reach the flat plateau of the Glaciar Fitz Roy Norte. Two hours from Piedra Negra to the plateau. Glaciar Marconi From Piedra del Fraile head west to a path that passes around the south side of Lago Electrico. Cross Rio Pallone (knee to thigh deep at times) to reach a second lake that is also bypassed on the south side, arriving at the front of the glacier. Work up the left side of the glacier to gain a broad plateau at the base of the Cordon Marconi. Three hours from Piedra del Fraile.

180, 204, 205

Glaciar Marconi Sur Head left into the southern branch of the Glaciar Marconi, a flat dry glacier that can be easily trekked in lightweight approach shoes. From the plateau mentioned above it is possible to reach the southern end of this branch in one hour. This is no longer than the approach to Niponino or Polacos. The Marconi glacier is flat, offers easy walking, and there are a number of good places fo r a comfortable advanced camp. From a camp near the edge of the glacier it is possible to reach the surrounding peaks in 1:30 to 3 hours.

68

Valle del Rfo Electrico

Paso Marconi (ca. rsoo m)-Circo de From the broad plateau at the base o= NW, traversing under a small serac '--- = of Cerro Marconi Norte's east face. : Now head south, skirting the base --= Marconis. Circa de los Altares is reaendless rs-kilometer hike acros e bringing skis and a kite for this porn Nine to ro hours from Piedra del Frai.:: : Altares (ca. 1430m).

=-

o:

=--

VALLE DEL RIO BLANCO Campamento Rio Blanco (ca. 700 From the northern outskirts of El C;- - :: ous trail that starts to the right of aL building (the oldest building in El C-- :. well before the town was fo unded . -:- :: gains 300 meters of elevation. _Hosteria El Pilar and hike from there meters of elevation gain).

- -e. On the left a short couloir leads '-,Fhours from Piedra Negra.

:--.llld.lllllet's ridge. Cross the 2-4, pitons in place) to a ours from Piedra Negra. r;nom) and Glaciar Fitz Roy ,., ..,.: ±e Glaciar Guillaumet head -eG..iarely right of a box shaped '-'-'='-:::A! ;:he west side of the pass for FitzRoy Norte. Stay on -egotiating crevasses directly rrom of Mermoz's NW -·--ea!l of the Glaciar FitzRoy _ to the plateau.

Paso Marconi (ca. 1500 m) - Circo de los Altares From the broad plateau at the base of the Marconis head NW, traversing under a small serac barrier near the base of Cerro Marconi Norte's east face, to reach the pass. Now head south, skirting the base of the west faces of the Marconis. Circo de los AI tares is reached after a seemingly endless 15-kilometer hike across the flat lee Cap. Consider bringing skis and a kite for this portion of the approach. Nine to 10 hours from Piedra del Fraile to Circo de los Altares (ca. 1430m).

90-91

VALLE DEL RiO BLANCO

Campamento Rio Blanco (ca. 700 m). From the northern outskirts of El Chalten take an obvious trail that starts to the right of an old yellow-roofed building (the oldest building in El Chalten, dating to well before the town was founded). The two -hour hike gains 300 meters of elevation. You may also take a taxi to Hosteria El Pilar and hike from there (1:30 hours and 250 meters of elevation gain).

::west to a path that passes -1!..._"50 :::.!ecrrico. Cross Rio Pallone · o reach a second lake that -::7. side. arriving at the front of _......=: siC.e of the glacier to gain a =-:.e Cordon Marconi. Three

Laguna de los Tres, Punta Velluda and Fitz Roy Group from the east.

Gl. de los Tres

Lagu na de los Tres

Valle del Rfo Blanco

69

APPROACHES

Paso Superior (ca. rgsom) Glaciar Piedras Blancas Superior 69

Laguna Sucia and the southern portion of the Fitz Roy Group f rom t he ENE.

Sl From Rio Blanco take a steep trail to Laguna de los Tres. Go round it on the south side, scrambling up, down and up again (one fixed rope in place), to reach the front of the Glaciar de los Tres. just before reaching the glacier there are a number of good bivy sites (many of the climbs, including Cerro Fitz Roy, can be done from there). Head up the glacier to the Paso Inferior (40°), a col on the ridge between Punta Velluda and Cerro Madsen. Scramble up the ridge and continue on snow (45°), making a traverse under the summit of Punta Velluda, to reach the Paso Superior (3 to 4 hours from Rio Blanco depending on snow conditions). From the Paso Superior downclimb a short

Saint-Exupery Del'S Moj6n Rojo

70

Valle del Rfo Blanco

rock step to the north and make a steep glacier to reach the Glaciar Piei.."'35 rior. Depending on snow conditions can be an unpleasant slog and skis or::prove useful early in the season.

Brecha de los Italianos (ca. 26oom La Silla (ca. 27oom). The col immediately south of Cerro ? reached in I937 by Italian mountain 6-- · tiglioni, Leo Dubose and Giovanni G.:.::CountAldo Bonacossa, made the firs-: ___ to climb the mountain. Since then i ---Brecha de los Italianos (col of the just to the north is known as La Silla --are three options to reach the col :..

rock step to the north and make a rising traverse across a steep glacier to reach the Glaciar Piedras Blancas Superior. Depending on snow conditions crossing this glacier can be an unpleasant slog and skis or snowshoes might prove useful early in the season.

nlanco depending on snow -- :::,U;>erior downclimb a short

Brecha de los ltalianos (ca. 26oom) La Silla (ca. 27oom). The col immediately south of Cerro Fitz Roy was first reached in I937 by Italian mountain guides Ettore Castiglioni, Leo Dubose and Giovanni Gilberti who, led by Count Aldo Bonacossa, made the first serious attempt to climb the mountain. Since then it is referred to as La Brecha de los Italianos (col of the Italians). The shoulder just to the north is known as La Silla (the saddle). There are three options to reach the col from the glacier below. Brecha de los ltalianos from the east.

Valle del Rio Blanco

71

APPROACHES

60, 71, 244

S2a Cross the bergschrund (sometimes overhanging) and climb the obvious mixed couloir (300m, 75° 3) leading directly to the col.

60, 71, 244

S2b Climb the spur immediately left of the couloir; ro pitches to 6a, first climbed by Roberta Nunez (BR) and jose Pereyra (VE) in 2002.

60, 71, 244

S2c Climb steep snow left of the obvious serac (25om, 60°), followed by easy rock (som, 3) to reach the crest of the ridge. A short downclimb on the west side gives access to La Brecha. Usually the bergschrund is much more manageable on this approach, often involving no more than a simple step across.

To reach La Silla head north, climbing a left leaning ramp (3). La Silla can be reached in 3 to 5 hours from the Paso Superior. In S2a and in a variation immediately right of the serac there are many abandoned ropes. Make sure you don't add any more to this already unfortunate collection. Campamento Poincenot (ca. 700 m). Campamento Poincenot is located 15 minutes before Campamento Rio Blanco (see description above).

70, 206

Glaciar Rio Blanco Superior (ca. rgoom). S3 Hike past Campamento Poincenot and cross the Rio Blanco (bridge), following the right side of the river to reach Laguna Sucia. This lake is named after the many ice pieces that often float in it (Lliboutry, 1952). Cross the river (no bridge) and go around the south side of the lake to reach a small creek. Hike up steep talus right next to the creek, reaching the base of an obvious rock wall. Here a faint path heads right, crosses a stream, and ascends loose talus to a series of rock domes and, eventually, the front of the Glaciar Rfo Blanco Superior. Before reaching the glacier there is a low cave with space for two small tents. This is known as the Swiss bivy, and was dug out by the first ascensionists of Bagual Bigwall. Three hours from Campamento Poincenot to the edge of the glacier.

72

Valle del Rfo Blanco

CORDON ADELA

Agujas del Rfo Tunel from the west.

CERRO AZARA (ca. r8som). This is a small peak located immediately north of the Paso del Viento. Alfred Kolliker (AR-CH) and Lutz Witte (DE) made the first ascent in rgr6. ln 2002 jose Fernandez Arrieta and Raul Lora del Cerro (ES) climbed the east face (zoom, 6so 3). From the summit they moved north along the ridge, to a secondary summit, listed by Lliboutry as Cerro Bravo. lt has a small summit tower (2om, 4).

to avoid confusion with the west of Glaciar Upsala). ln rg66 Ca:.lsmael Palma made the first asce : and renamed it Aguja T 48. Llibou • unclimbed. There is an independe-- north of "2" that Lliboutry neither Lliboutry's number "3" is in fact C\ ·o : unclimbed. Lliboutry's "4" is wha ·Tenazas and is also unclimbed. as c Climbing history. Other than T..c. have been climbed.

proaching via the Paso del Vienro. -- _ rock with difficulties to s+. The -- = on ice and the pair climbed the from the east. The descent im·oh· .: meters of downclimbing (50°). T _ Argentine Air Force plane called -:- in Panama, killing several officers. as well as other Argentine climbers rides in that plane to climb in Per. CERRO SOLO (ca. zroom).

AGUJAS DEL RiO TUNEL AGUJA T48 (ca. 2250m), "2", Unnamed, "3", AGUJA TENAZAS and "5".

Kolliker's rgr6 expedition named two of seven summits located between Cerro Grande's west ridge and Cerro Azara. The second from the north, a distinct tower reminiscent of a pair of tongs, was named Cerro Tenazas, and the first from the south Cerro Murall6n. ln r952 Lliboutry grouped all summits under the name Agujas del Rio Ttinel. Lliboutry saw five summits instead of seven and he numbered them from south to north. The first in Lliboutry's count (number r) is what Ki:illiker called Cerro Murall6n (later "renamed" Cerro Murall6n del Viedma,

74

Agujas del Rio TUnel

Cerro Solo is the most popular m objective in the area. lt involve e.l!,"} _ glacier travel and straightforward::""" of being technically moderate, it·-and there have been a number ooffers phenomenal views of both -'- <" - _ Roy groups. The Comisi6n de Limi· the peak in the late r8oos. Those interested in objectives u also want to consider Moj 6n Rojo In I949 Roberto Matzi and Enriq made the first ascent via the east - -_,. _ skied in I997 by Max O'Dell (AR . Description. From De Agostini follow the trail around Laguna Tor.e 2

immediately north of the -· er (AR-CH) and Lutz Witte - - r in 1916. ln 2002 Jose Fernandez erro (ES) climbed the east face

to avoid confusion with the well known Cerro Murall6n west of Glaciar Upsala). ln 1966 Carlos Comesafia and lsmael Palma made the first ascent of Kolliker's Murall6n and renamed it Aguja T 48. Lliboutry's number "2" is still unclimbed. There is an independent tower just to the north of "2" that Lliboutry neither saw nor numbered. Lliboutry's number "3" is in fact two towers, both still unclimbed. Lliboutry's "4" is what Kolliker called Cerro Tenazas and is also unclimbed, as is Lliboutry's "s". Climbing history. Other than T 48, none of the summits have been climbed. Comesaiia and Palma climbed T 48 from the west, approaching via the Paso del Viento. They encountered bad rock with difficulties to s+. The final pitches were mostly on ice and the pair climbed the summit's rime mushroom from the east. The descent involved 10 rappels and 200 meters of downclimbing (50°). T 48 is named after an Argentine Air Force plane called Tango 48, which crashed in Panama, killing several officers. The first ascensionists, as well as other Argentine climbers, had been offered free rides in that plane to climb in Peru and elsewhere. 1

CERRO SOLO (ca. 2room).

Cerro Solo is the most popular moderate mountaineering objective in the area. lt involves easy scrambling, a bit of glacier travel and straightforward snow climbing. ln spite of being technically moderate, it is not without danger and there have been a number of accidents. The summit offers phenomenal views of both the Cerro Torre and Fitz Roy groups. The Comisi6n de Limites expedition named the peak in the late 18oos.

"

e-s west ridge and Cerro .:nr-•.h, a distinct tower as named Cerro TenaCerro .\iurall6n. In 1952 :he name Agujas del

Those interested in objectives such as Cerro Solo, might also want to consider Moj6n Rojo and Cerro Electrico. 2 ln 1949 Roberto Matzi and Enrique Sabatte (AR) made the first ascent via the east face, a route that was skied in 1997 by Max O'Dell (AR). Description. From De Agostini cross the Tyrolean and follow the trail around Laguna Torre until you reach an

Cerro Solo

75

Carlos Comesana after the first ascent ofT48 in 1966.

CORDON ADELA

2.2 ln 2004 Cedar Wright (U below the front of the glacier, asce mits (bad rock to s). 3 ln 20I2 juan Manuel Raselli an climbed from the south, approac · =ing to the Paso de las Agachonas. 7'- • good rock, joining the Matzi -SabatL> summit. They named the new line M3). CERRO GRANDE (ca. 2750 m .

Ki:illiker's r9r6 expedition christen for vantage points from which to of the expedition climbed to the c and Cerro Grande, christening it Pas they had a good view of the to identify and name a number o.: _

Cerro Solo from the NE.

North and east face Approach. De Agostini to Paso T · Superior. 4

FILO NORTE

300m, 65° Catullo Detassis-Cesare Mae (IT), 2/1958.

obvious ravine, just before the end of the forest. Head up this ravine and then hike up and right, scrambling (grade 2) to reach the edge of the glacier. Skirt around the right side of the glacier to reach the rockband below the summit. Traverse left and ascend the last steep section of the glacier (soc), crossing a bergschrund and a few crevasses. 2.1 ln 2000 Bruce Miller (US) and Bruno Sourzac (FR) climbed the left of two waterfalls that occasionally form on the rockband below the summit. They named it Las Lagrimas del Solo (I2om, Wls+).

76

Cerro Solo

Description. An easy and scenic the rime mushrooms near the s Climb toward Cerro El Doblado tra the ridge leading to Cerro Grande. • ::- : History. This was the first ascent o.: -- _ already made the first ascent of Cer:- in the day. They christened a small ' Punta Paganella.

2.2 ln 2004 Wright (US) climbed a ridge directly below the front of the glacier, ascending nine small summits (bad rock to s).

3 ln 20r2 Juan Manuel Raselli and Ignacio Teerink (AR) climbed from the south, approaching from the valley leading to the Paso de las Agachonas. They found reasonably good rock, joining the Matzi- Sabatte route just below the summit. They named the new line lnsomnio (so om, soo M3). CERRO GRANDE (ca. 2750 m). Ki:illiker's rgr6 expedition christened this peak. Looking for vantage points from which to map the area, members of the expedition climbed to the col between Cerro Solo and Cerro Grande, christening it Paso Tunel. From there they had a good view of the Cordon Adela and were able to identify and name a number of summits.

North and east face Approach. De Agostini to Paso Tunel to Glaciar Grande Superior. 4

FILO NORTE 300m, 65° Catullo Detassis-Cesare Maestri-Marino Stenico (IT), 2/1958. Description. An easy and scenic snow climb. Negotiating the rime mushrooms near the summit can be tricky. Climb toward Cerro El Doblado traversing south to join the ridge leading to Cerro Grande. 80, 85 History. This was the first ascent of the peak. They had already made the first ascent of Cerro El Doblado earlier in the day. They christened a small bump along the ridge Punta Paganella.

a few crevasses.

Bib liography. AAJ 1959 p. 317; CAl· RM 1958/ 3.4 p. 112, p. 114; Lo Scarpone 1957/23 p. 1; Lo Scarpone 1958/1 p. 1; Lo Scarpone 1958/2 p. 1; Lo Scarpone 1958/ 5 p. 1; Lo Scarpone 1958/ 21 p. 3; B SAT 1958/2 p. 3 -8; B SAT 1959/3 p. 13; Maestri C. (1961) Arrampicare il mio Mestiere, Garzanti , Milano (p. 57-86); Maestri C. (1981) II

e

-..: Bruno Sourzac (FR) -.ua.: occasionally fo rm Tae:· named it Las

Ragno delle Dolomiti , Rizzoli , Milano.

Cerro Grande

77

CORDON ADELA

S

Cerro Grande south face.

CARA NORTE

350m, 60° Werner Stucki (CH), 1/1991. History. Tommy Bonapace soloed a parallel line in r992. Descent. Downclimb the Filo Este. 80 Bibliography. Gipfelsturmer rgg6 p. 2r; High I3I p. r7-r8.

South face Approach. Laguna Toro to Glaciai - 8

CARA SUR

500m, 5 75° Casimiro Ferrari (IT), 3/ 1993. History. Ferrari climbed to 200 me;r.s with Damian Friedman (AR) who. · experience, decided not to continue. - _ once, during the descent. 78 Descent. Downclimb the Filo E e. Bibliography. AAJ I994 p. r8s; C -\1PUNTA LUCA (ca. 26oom). Massive rime mushrooms characre · " summit of Cerro Grande. Walter Bo- (IT) made the first ascent in rgs8 ia the peak after Mauri's son. This was -- _ climbed during an impressive traw-,. Travesia del Cordon Adela. 80, PUNTA MINI TORRE

350m, 55° Thomas Villars (CH), 1/1991. Description. A scenic and exposed snow ridge. One of the best snow climbs in the massif. 78, 80 History. Climbed solo on the same day that Stucki was soloing the Cara Norte. Descent. Downclimb the route.

Punta Mini Torre is a secondary located immediately west of Puma ized by massive rime mushrooms. _.' and juan Raselli (AR) made the firs asc_ an impressive traverse from Mini Torre They approached via Laguna Toro an-= climbing a snow and ice ramp (400 from right to left up the west face oto the base of Mini Torre. The sumnn: _ goo ice and similarly steep rime. See - _ 80, 85 Adela al Torre.

7

CERRO EL DOBLADO (ca. 267om.

6

FILO ESTE

CARA SURESTE

200m, 75o M4 Marcello Cominetti-Gianluca Maspes (IT), 12/2002. Approach. As for the north and east face, then make a short horizontal traverse south. 78 Descent. Downclimb the Filo Este.

78

Cerro Grande

Ki:illiker's rgr6 expedition christened-- it was also known as Cerro Cuerno oThe I958 Trento expedition that ac o-ascent suggested changing the name Ki:illiker's original name endured. Ca . 1aestri and Marino Stenico (IT) c · ·

Puntas Luca & Mi ni Torr

South face Approach. Laguna Tow to Glaciar Tu.nel. :E:ai:J2.?-Ke soloed a parallel line in 1992. ?uo Este . .,. PH 80 p. 21; High 131 p. 17-18.

8

CARASUR

500m, 5 75° Casimiro Ferrari (IT), 3/1993. History. Ferrari climbed to 200 meters below the summit with Damian Friedman (AR) who, having little climbing experience, decided not to continue. They bivouacked 78 once, during the descent. Descent. Downclimb the Filo Este. Bibliography. AA) 1994 p. 185; CAl- RM 1993/5 p. 86. PUNTA LUCA (ca. 26oom).

-· - />--

,.....-

t '.

now ridge. One of the -:. .. =>-I 78, 80

-e 5ai.Ile day that Stucki was

Massive rime mushrooms characterize this secondary summit of Cerro Grande. Walter Bonatti and Carlo Mauri (IT) made the first ascent in 1958 via the NE ridge, naming the peak after Mauri's son. This was the sixth summit climbed during an impressive traverse of the range. See Travesia del Cordon Adela. .,. PH 80, 85 PUNTA MINI TORRE

Punta Mini Torre is a secondary summit of Cerro Grande, located immediately west of Punta Luca. It is characterized by massive rime mushrooms. Max O'Dell, Agustin and juan Raselli (AR) made the first ascent in 2012, during an impressive traverse from Mini Torre to Cerro Torre. They approached via Laguna Toro and Glaciar Tunel, climbing a snow and ice ramp (400m, 6oo) that slashes from right to left up the west face of Punta Luca and leads to the base of Mini Torre. The summit pyramid involved 90° ice and similarly steep rime. See Travesia del Cordon Adela al Torre . .,. PH 80, 85 CERRO EL DOBLADO (ca. 267om).

aspes (IT),

1.::..

Kolliker's 1916 expedition christened this peak. For a time it was also known as Cerro Cuerno or Cuerno Blanco. The 1958 Trento expedition that accomplished the first ascent suggested changing the name to Cerro Trento, but Kolliker's original name endured. Catullo Detassis, Cesare Maestri and Marino Stenico (IT) climbed easy snow from

Puntas Luca & Mini Torre, Cerro El Doblado

79

CORDON ADELA

the east, from Glaciar Grande Superior, to complete the first ascent. Two days later Walter Bonatti and Carlo Mauri (IT) climbed from the Paso Doblado to the summit via the north ridge, while making an impressive traverse of the range. See Travesia del Cordon Adela. 85 CERRO EL NATO (ca. 28oom). Kolliker's 1916 expedition was responsible for naming this peak. Confusingly, in several old publications it was referred to as Cerro El Doblado. For an explanation see CAl-AIM 1972/2 p. 835 orB SAT 1959/3 p. 13. Approach. De Agostini to Paso Tunel to Glaciar Grande Superior. FILO SUROESTE E. Castiglioni-Leo Dubose - G. Gilberti (IT), 2/1937. Description. From Glaciar Grande Superior head west to the Paso Doblado (Cerro El Nato-Cerro El Doblado col), christened by the first ascensionists. From there climb the SW ridge to the summit (55°). 85 History. This was the first ascent of the peak, which was the first technically difficult summit to be climbed in the Southern Andes. Count Aldo Bonacossa, the expedition's

Cordon Adela from the ENE

80

Cerro El Nato

sponsor and organizer, accompanied - _ Doblado. Bibliography. CAl- RM 1938/10 - L . _ 1946/3-4 p. 65 -77; CAl -AIM 1953 p. :: 1972j2 p. 818- 821; Bonacossa A (r Montagna, Tamari, Bologna. 10

LUCE DE LECHE 600m, 70° Davide Brighenti-Aiberto Ra Descent. Via the Filo Suroeste toP Bibliography. Mountain 125 p. 13: _ _ pone 1988/s p. 6 -7; AAJ 1989 p. 176: • CAl - RM 1988/4 p. 76; Desnivel36 11

FILO NORTE Walter Bonatti-Carlo Ma uri ( Description. From Col Trento (Ce Nato col) climb the north ridge. - :History. This was the third of six and Mauri climbed while making an of the range. See Travesia del Cord6 _

.!-

:::iar Grande Superior, to complete the 1.:ays later Walter Bonatti and Carlo

fro m the Paso Doblado to the summit -... while making an impressive traverse - ra\·esfa del Cordon Adela. ._PH 85

·tion was responsible for naming gly, in several old publications it was o El Doblado. For an explanation see .. 835 or B SAT 1959/3 p. 13. tini to Paso Tunel to Glaciar Grande

·-Leo Dubosc-G. Gilberti (IT), 2/1937. Glaciar Grande Superior head west to Cerro El Nato-Cerro El Doblado col), :irst ascensionists. From there climb the :rmmit (55°). .. PH 85 the firs t ascent of the peak, which was -difficult summit to be climbed in the ount Aldo Bonacossa, the expedition's

sponsor and organizer, accompanied the team to the Paso ..: Doblado. Bibliography. CAl-RM 1938/ro-n p. 466 -475; CAl-RM 1946/3-4 p. 65 - 77; CAl-AIM 1953 p. 289 - 291; CAl -AIM 1972/2 p. 818 - 821; Bonacossa A. (1980) Una Vita per la Montagna, Tamari, Bologna. 10

LUCE DE LECHE

600m, 70° Davide Brighenti-Aiberto Rampini (IT), ll/1987. Descent. Via the Filo Suroeste to Paso Doblado . .. PH 80 Bibliography. Mountain 125 p. 13; Alp 35 p. 21; Lo Scarpone 1988/5 p. 6-7; MJ 1989 p. 176; RdM 96 p. 13; CAl - RM 1988/4 p. 76; Desnivel36 p. 17. 11

FILO NORTE

Walter Bonatti-Carlo Mauri (IT), 2/1958. Description. From Col Trento (Cerro Adela Sur - Cerro El Nato col) climb the north ridge . .. PH 80, 84 History. This was the third of six summits that Bonatti and Mauri climbed while making an impressive traverse of the range. See Travesfa del Cordon Adela.

Cerro El Nato

81

Maestri meet near the summit of Cerro Adela

CORDON ADELA

CERRO ADELA

Ki:illiker named this peak in 1916, after his mother. Descent. The easiest descent from any of the Adelas involves reaching Col Trento, then traversing across the west face of Cerro El Nato to the Paso Doblado. From there go down to the Glaciar Grande Superior. lt is also possible to descend directly east from Col Trento, but there are several steep steps and wide crevassesjserac gaps.

page 83., Cerro Adela east face. Cerro Adela Sur SE face.

CERRO ADELA SUR (ca. 28oom). Walter Bonatti and Carlo Mauri (lT) made the first ascent in 1958. They traversed from the summit of Cerro Adela Central while making an impressive traverse of the range. See Travesia del Cordon Adela. 12

FILO SUR

Luciano Eccher-Cesare Maestri (IT), 2/1958. Description. Approach via the Paso Tunel and Glaciar Grande Superior to the Paso Doblado. From there traverse across the western slope of Cerro El Nato, to Col Trento (Cerro El Nato - Cerro Adela Sur col, christened by Eccher and Maestri) and follow the south ridge to the summit (300m, 50°).

84, 85

History. The first ascensionists ran into Bonatti and Mauri close to the summit. These two were descending after making the first ascent of the peak. For more details and bibliography see the Filo Norte of Cerro Grande. l3

CARA SURESTE 600m, 90° M4

Robert Jasper (DE), 12/1994. History. After a five -hour approach from base -camp jasper soloed the route in two hours. From the summit he traversed south along the ridge, following Bonatti and Mauri's steps over Cerros El Nato, El Doblado and Grande. He accomplished this traverse in 22 hours round trip from Campamento De Agostini, including a five-hour 80, 81, 82 bivouac. Approach. To access the Glaciar Grande Superior, jasper climbed a gully to the north of Glaciar Grande's icefall,

82

Cerro Adela

immediately south of a broad rock buttress at the base of Cerro Adela Sur's east ridge. Descent. jasper downclimbed Cerro Grande's Filo Este.

Bibliography. Alpin 1995/ 3 p. 8- 9; High 152 p. 14; Kl ettern 1995/ 6 p. 37; Vertical 78 p. 49; Climber 5/ 95, p. 7·

._ East face Approach. De Agostini to Niponino to the Glaciar Adela Superior (Nl).

14

FILO ESTE

1200m, 70° Jorge Aikes-Nestor M6naco-Omar Pellegrini (AR),

3/1967. History. The first ascent was completed in a three-day round trip from Niponino. 81, 83

Cerro Adela

83

Bibliography. La Montana 1967/9 p. 23-26, p. 56- 57; AAJ 1969 p. 447- 448; CAB - Anuario 1979 p. 19.

CORDON ADELA

15

Bibl iography. Mountain 119 p. 12; Alp 23 p. 18-21, RdM 84 p. 11-13, RdM 86 p. 56-61, AAJ 1987 p. 215, GHM 1987 p. 36, CA l - RM 1987/4 p. 36·44·

DIRETTISSIMA DEl SERACCHI 1200m, 90o Gian Carlo Grassi- Mauro Rossi (IT) 12/1986. Description. If you enjoy playing Russian Roulette with two or more bullets in the revolver's cylinder, this is the route for you. It climbs four steep ice pitches directly over the serac. 81, 83 History. This is one of four new routes that Grassi and Rossi climbed during a month long visit. They climbed during the night to minimize objective danger, completing the route in a 26-hour round trip from De Agostini. Gear. Several truck loads ofluck. CERRO ADELA CENTRAL (ca. 2940m). Walter Bonatti and Carlo Mauri (IT) made the first ascent in 1958. See the Cara Oeste route below and the Travesfa del Cordon Adela.

.West face Approach. Laguna Toro to Paso del Viento, then north toward Circo de los Altares.

84

Cerro Adela

16

CARA OESTE 1400m, D Walter Bonatti-Carlo Ma uri ( Description. The glacial tongue climbed has receded since 1958 and·:-= climbable anymore. 84 History. This was the first of six climbed while making an impressn·e See Travesfa del Cordon Adela.

.East face Approach. De Agostini to Niponino Superior (Nl). 17

CARA ESTE 1200m, 85° Sebastian de Ia Cruz (AR), 12 Description. This is one of the the area. The crux is negotiating rheshould only be attempted during col ' History. DelaCruz climbed at tive danger. After the ascent he \no-c. wolf's mouth the easiest escape is

A DEl SERACCHI E-assi - Mauro Rossi (IT) 12/1986. enjoy playing Russian Roulette with in the revolver's cylinder, this is the bs fo ur steep ice pitches directly over 33

e of fo ur new routes that Grassi and :ng a month long visit. They climbed o minimize objective danger, complet:6-hour round trip from De Agostini. k loads ofluck.

CENTRAL (ca. 2940m). Carlo Mauri (lT) made the first ascent eara Oeste route below and the Travesia

Toro to Paso del Viento, then north .-\I tares.

16

CARA OESTE 1400m, D Walter Bonatti -Carlo Mauri (IT), 2/1958. Description. The glacial tongue that Bonatti and Mauri climbed has receded since rgs8 and it does not appear climbable anymore. 84 History. This was the first of six summits the pair climbed while making an impressive traverse of the range. See Travesia del Cordon Adela. ,. East face Approach. De Agostini to Niponino to Glaciar Adela Superior (Nl). 17

CARA ESTE 1200m, 85° Sebastian de Ia Cruz (AR), 12/1987. Description. This is one of the hardest snow climbs in the area. The crux is negotiating the summit cornices. lt should only be attempted during cold weather spells . History. De la Cruz climbed at night to minimize objective danger. After the ascent he wrote, "if you are in the wolf's mouth the easiest escape is through its ass .. ."

Cordon Adela from the west.

Cerro Adela

85

CORDON ADELA

ln r982 F. Aguado and V. Gonzalez ltxaso attempted a slightly different line on the east face, retreating 200 meters below the summit (number r7.r in the photodiagrams) . .-PH 81, 83 Gear. LSD? Bibliography. CAB-Anuario I992 p. 76-79; AAJ r988 p. I?8; AAJ I992 p. I72. 18

GRINGO EN LA NOCHE 1200m, 85° Peter Podgornik (SI), 7/1991. Description. The crux is negotiating the summit cornices. History. Podgornik took seven hours to complete this climb. He considers it one of the biggest adventures of his life. He descended through bad weather in the heart of winter, was completely alone in the area, and carried no radio. This was the first and, to date, only winter ascent of Cerro Adela. Podgornik dedicated the route to Alojz Fon, who died when a World War l grenade exploded in his hands, three months before they were to depart together on this expedition . .. PH 81, 83 Bibliography. AAJ I992 p. 172; GHM I99I p. 35; High II7 p. n; Desnivel 67 p. 99· 19

ASAMBLEA DE MAJARAS 1200m, 95° M5 Dani Ascaso-Aivaro Novell6n-Santi Padr6s-Oscar Perez (ES), 10/2007. History. The first ascensionists started climbing at midnight and reached the last steep section at dawn. ln order for all four to keep moving they climbed two separate lines in the final section. Both involve bad rock and rotten ice. After rs hours of climbing they reached the top. The name of the route refers to events a few days earlier, during an attempt on Los Tiempos Perdidos, when they came close to being killed twice by serac fall. Majara means crazy or deranged in Spanish. The name is also a song by the Basque group Kortatu . .. PH 81, 83 Strategy. Best climbed during a period of cold weather. lt is much more exposed to objective danger than the Cara Este or Gringo en la Noche.

86

Cerro Adela

CERRO ADELA NORTE Eduardo Brenner and Silvia Fitzpatrick (AR) made the first ascent in 1988. See Travesia de los Adelas, Sur a Norte. TRAVERSES AND LINK-UPS ._

20

Cerros Adela Central, Sur, El Nato, El Doblado, Grande and Punta Luca TRAVESiA DEL CORDON ADELA 2000m, D

Walter Bonatti -Carlo Mauri (IT), 2/1958. Description. Bonatti and Mauri climbed the west face of Cerro Adela Central, starting from a cirque on the lee Cap below Cerro Grande that they christened Circo de las Cascadas. From the summit of Cerro Adela Central they traversed south over Cerros Adela Sur, El Nato, El Doblado and Grande to the summit of Punta Luca. From here they descended a heavily crevassed glacier to the west, returning to the Circa de las Cascadas. 8o, 81, 84, 85 History. Bonatti and Mauri had only intended to climb Cerro Adela, but reaching the summit at an early hour (10:30 a.m.), and impressed by the scenery, they decided to keep going. While descending from the summit of Cerro Adela Sur, they were surprised to meet Cesare Maestri and Luciano Eccher climbing toward them. They reached the summit of Cerro El Nato at r p.m., the summit of Cerro El Doblado at 3 p.m. and the summit of Cerro Grande at 4:15 p.m., from where they continued to Punta Luca, which they summitted by s:rs p.m. They then descended west, back to Circa de las Cascadas, reaching their camp 15 hours after leaving. This impressive traverse took place only two days after the first ascent of Mariano Moreno, a Go kilometer, 2000 meters of vertical gain, 48- hour tour- de-force, which they completed with Folco Dora Altan and Rene Eggmann (AR). Earlier they had attempted the west face of Cerro Torre. This climb marked the end of their expedition and as Bonatti wrote, "the end of a great adventure of a handful of men, who by conquering mountains had managed to escape the fangs of life." This impressive ascent is proof of their incredible skill. A few months later they made the

Cordon

Traverses and link-ups

87

CORDON ADELA

first ascent of Gasherbrum IV, a mountain that today still garners tremendous respect. During this traverse they made the first ascents of Cerro Adela Central, Cerro Adela Sur and Punta Luca. In 1994 Robert Jasper (DE) repeated part of this traverse, see Adela Sur Cara Sureste. Gear. Bonatti wrote, "The only equipment at our disposal during that climb was ropes, ice-axes and crampons, the kit that the old school mountaineers would have had. It is not only with artificial aids that man can overcome the greatest difficulties but also with something else, greater and within oneself, which is worth far more." Bibliography. CAl - RM 1958/3 -4 p. n4; CAl - RM I959/I - 2 p. 32 -39; AAJ 1959 p. 317; Lo Scarpone 1958/r p. r; Lo Scarpone 1958/2 p. r; Lo Scarpone 1958/s p. r; Lo Scarpone 1958/20 p. r; Mundo Argentino I0/9/58 #2480 p. 27-35; Leoplan a. 24 #572 r/6/s8 p. r - 8; Bonatti W. (r96r), Le Mie Montagne, Zanichelli, Bologna (p. I9I - 214); Bonatti W. (1979) On the Heights, Diadem Books, London (p. 153- r69); Rho F. and Mauri F. (1997) Carlo Mauri - II Viaggiatore dei Sogni, Ferrari Ed., Clusone (p. 48 - 57). Cerros Adela Sur, Central, Norte and Col de la Esperanza 21 TRAVESfA DE LOS ADELAS, SUR A NORTE Eduardo Brenner-Silvia Fitzpatrick (AR), 10/1988. Description. Brenner and Fitzpatrick climbed to Col Trento from the east (400m, 55°), joining the Filo Sur to reach the summits of Cerro Adela Sur and Central. They then continued to Adela Norte and descended to the Col de la Esperanza. This descent involves tricky route finding, weaving around rime mushrooms. Once at the Col de la Esperanza, Brenner and Fitzpatrick attempted to traverse to the snowfield above Cerro Torre's south face, but poor rock forced a retreat. They descended to Circa de los Altares and returned to the Torre Valley, climbing up and over the Col Standhardt. Barely one month later Brenner died in a river rafting accident, leaving the Argentine climbing community shaken by the loss of one of its best and surely its most charismatic and loved alpinists. 80,81

88

Cordon

Traverses and link · ups

Punta Mini Torre, Cerros El Doblado, El Nato, Adela Sur, Central, Norte and Torre 22 TRAVESfA DEL CORDON ADELA AL TORRE Max O'Dell-Agustin and juan Raselli (AR), 1/2012. Description. After climbing Punta Mini Torre they traversed north, passing under the summits of Punta Luca and Cerro Grande. Regaining the ridge they followed the crest over Cerros El Doblado (150m, 45°), El Nato (3oom, 55°), Adela Sur (3oom, 50°), Central and Norte, before descending to the Col de la Esperanza. From here they finished up the Ragni route on Cerro Torre (6oom, 90° M4). The descent from Cerro Adela Norte to the Col de la Esperanza involves tricky route finding, weaving around rime mushrooms. 78, 80, 81, 84, 85, 105, 106 History. This fantastic voyage took seven days round trip from El Chalten. They bivouacked by Laguna Toro, part way up Punta Mini Torre, at the Col Trento, twice at the base of El Elmo on the Ragni route and one last time while hiking out, at Laguna de los Esquies. Brenner and Fitzpatrick had done the middle section of this traverse in 1988 (see above). ln 1958 Bonatti and Mauri did a portion of this traverse in reverse, from north to south, see Travesfa del Cordon Adela. Approach. Laguna Toro to Glaciar Tunel. Gear. As for the Ragni route. Descent. As for the Ragni route.

Cordon

Traverse s and lin k-up s

89

TORRE GROUP

page 93 El Mocho east face.

EL MOCHO (ca. 1950m). El Mocho is Cerro Torre's Sancho Panza, thick and wide like Don Quixote's squire. lts easy approach, low elevation and high quality, incredibly featured rock provide some of the best freeclimbing in the massif. ln 1952 Folco Doro Altan (AR) christened it Mesa de los Gigantes (table of the giants), a fairy tale name that unfortunately was overwritten by later arrivals. Mocho in Argentine slang means "without a top", an accurate description of its appearance. jim Bridwell (US) and Robert Staszewski (AU) made the first ascent, in 1978.

10 3 9 6a

8 7b+ (6c Cl)

East face Approach. De Agostini to Niponino, then up toward Noruegos, heading left across slabs (3) to the base, following partway approach Nib.

7 6b

1

6 5+

ESPOLON ESTE

350m, 6b+ C1 jim Bridwel l (US)-Robert Staszewski (AU), 2/1978. Description. A short off-width, which is hard to protect, can be avoided by climbing slightly left. Gear. Doubles to #2, one each to #4, TCUs, stoppers. Descent. Rappel the Voie des Beni93, T 92 tiers. Bibliography. AAJ 1978, p. 583- 584; Mountain 55 p. n.

53

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92

El Mocho

East face

2

VOlE DES BENITIERS

400m, 7b+ (6c C1) Daniel Piola (CH), 1/1989. Description. A beautiful climb, one of the most popular in the Cerro Torre group. Except for the first pitch the rock is quite solid. Some of the upper pitches are in common with the Espol6n Este. 93, 99, T 92 History. This is one of four new routes that Anker and Piola climbed in a ro- day spree. See Patagonicos Desesperados on Poincenot. Free ascent. Chris Righter- Josh Wharton (US) I/20II. Gear. Doubles to #2, one #3, TCUs, stoppers, RPs. Descent. Rappel the route. Bibliography. Mountain 130 p. 20- 25; Vertical32 p. 28 -37; MJ 1990 p. 206-209. 3

TODOONADA

350m, 85° Gian Carlo Grassi-Roberto Pe-Mauro Rossi (IT), ll/1986. Description. This is a good route, usually in condition early in the season. 93 History. Grassi, Pe and Rossi climbed fo ur new routes during their month long visit. Winter Ascent. Daniel Arnold, Mario and Stephan Ruoss (CH), 8j 20n. Gear. One each to # 2, stoppers, 5-7 ice-screws. Descent. Rappel the route. Bibliography. See Direttissima dei Seracchi, Adela Sur.

BIZCOCHUELO

400m, 6b A1 Gian Carlo Grassi-Roberto Pe-Mauro Rossi (IT), 12/1986. Description. The first ascensionists described this route as having good quality rock. 96, T 95 History. See Todo o Nada. Bizcochuelo is a bland kind of cake. ln 1987 M. Malgarotto, A. Rampini and M. Venzo climbed a minor variation in the lower half.

El Mocho

Ea st face

93

TORRE GROUP

Gear. Doubles to #3, TCUs, stoppers, 3-5 pitons. Bibliography. See Direttissima dei Seracchi, Adela Sur. 4.1 JINGUS VARIATION

Mason Earle (US) - Nico Favresse-Sean Villanueva (BE), 2/2009. Where Bizcochuelo heads right, continue up the left side of the buttress, following cracks on good rock. The crux is the second to last pitch, an overhanging finger crack in a 93 corner (6c). North face Approach. De Agostini to Niponino, then up toward Noruegos, crossing a small glacier to reach the base (35°), partway following approach N 2. S

GREY YELLOW ARROW

4SOm, 7a AO janez jeglic-Silvo Karo- Francek Knez (SI)- Roberto Pe (IT), 12/1986, in two parts. Description. This is one of the best -looking lines on El Mocho and a good candidate for a free ascent. Crosses 96, T 95 Bizcochuelo three-quarters of the way up. History. The first ascent was completed over two days. The climbers rappelled from half height, then regained their highpoint via an obvious ramp. lt still awaits a continuous ascent. This was Pe's fourth new route in a month long visit to the area. Gear. Doubles to #3, some triples, one #4, double TCUs, stoppers. Bibliography. Mountain II9 p. 12; GHM 1987 p. 36; CAl - RM 1987/4 p. 36-44; RdM 84 p. 12; Desnivel3o p. 29. 6

LITTLE BIG WALL

450m, 6c A4 jean Marc Clerc - Remy Duhoux -Vasken Koutoudjian (FR), 1/1996. Description. The name describes the route's character 96, T 94 well. History. The first ascensionists were part of a French Young Alpinists expedition. They climbed the route in six days over a 3 -week period, U?ing 300 meters of fixed rope.

94

El Mocho

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El Macho., North face

95

TORRE GROUP

Bibliography. LMeiA 183 p. 56- 57; LMeiA 184 p. 18- 23; AAJ 1997 p. 249-250; High 164, p. 30; Vertical 88 p. 24; GHM 95/96 p. 50-51, p. 6s.

Gear. Doubles to #4, double TCUs, stoppers, 15-20 pitons, hooks. Descent. Rappel the route. 7

8

Elorza- Moises attempt Ignacio Elorza- Maria jose Moises (AR), 230m, to 6c, retreating due to poor rock . .,. PH 96 FRADER PISAFE

400m, 6c+ page 99 .,_ El Mocho south face and east ridge. El Mocho north face.

Adriano Cavallaro - Ermanno Salvaterra (IT), 12/1993. .,.PH 96, T 97

Description. A high quality climb, the most popular on El Mocho's north face. History. The first ascensionists dedicated this route to Andreas Kiwscher (DE), who died while descending from

96

El Mocho .,. North face

50m 5+ 111

9l20m 5 8 l40m 6a

50m 5+ 110

? 135m 5

50m 4 19

8 l50m 6a

? 150m 6c+

30m 5

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4 35m 5

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El Mocho

Nort h face

97

TORRE GROUP

Cerro Fitz Roy in 1994. S. Ballardini, F. Nicolini, F. Vidi and P. Vidi had attempted the line earlier in 1993. The name combines the first two letters of the first names of every climber involved in the 1993 attempt and final ascent; Fr (Franco), ad (Adriano), etc. Gear. Doubles to #3, one #4, TCUs, stoppers. Descent. Rappel the route. Bibliography. Desnivel 96 p. 93; Alp III p. 18; MJ 1995 p. 208-209; High 142 p. 40; GHM 1994-95 p. 53; RdM 167 p. 7-8; B SAT 1994/2 p. 30 -31. 9

GREETINGS FROM BAD MEN 400m, 95o 6a Robert jasper-jorn Heller (DE), 11/1994. 96, T 97

Description. The first ascent was completed in "winter"

(icy) conditions, as a mixed and ice climb. The third pitch was a narrow gully that had sections of overhanging ice (95°). History. The first ascent took 5 hours. Gear. Doubles to #2, one #3, 2 or 3 TCUs, stoppers, 5-7 ice-screws. Descent. Rappel Frader Pisafe. Bibliography. Alpin 1995/3 p. 8- 9; High 152 p. 14; Klettern 1995/6 p. 37; Vertical 78 p. 49; Climber 5/95 p. 7· 10

REGGAE TIME 400m, 6a A1+ Alejandro Garcia-Mario Rinkevich-Stephen Whewell (AR), 1/1996. 96, T 98 History. The first ascent was made using fixed ropes. Gear. Doubles to #3, TCUs, stoppers, 4-6 pitons. Descent. Rappel Frader Pisafe. Bibliography. MJ 1997 p. 250; Alta Montana 3 p. 20. 11

ANITA 400m, 6b+ Martin Laguna and partners (AR), 1/2005. 96 Description. Shares the first pitch with Reggae Time,

then climbs right to an obvious chimney. This has a small :-..

98

El Mocho

face

.q-

roof that is the crux of the climb. The upper part involves often-wet slabs. Gear. Doubles to #2, one #3, TCUs, stoppers. Descent. The rappel line is immediately west of the route.

9 60m 6a+A2

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8 60m Al

7 50m 6a+ Al

6 60m A3

5 60m A2+

South face Approach. De Agostini to Niponino, then up toward Noruegos, heading south across slabs (3) to the base of the east face. From here, move around to the south face across snow and ice (45°), following partway approach Nlb. 12

4 60m 5 A2

3 55m 6a+ A2

BACK TO THE FRONT 400m, 6a+ A4 Steve Gerberding- jay Smith (US), 2/1992.

Description. A steep and imposing line. Unfortunately the rock isn't great (you start placing a thin LA and end up placing an angle). ln spite of being short, it is a proper big wall route. There are two or three bat- hook moves on pitch nine.

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99

TORRE GROUP

History. The first ascent party fixed five ropes and then climbed the route in one day from De Agostini to the summit. 99, T 99 Gear. Four each to #2, doubles to #4, one each to # 6, double TCUs, stoppers, hooks, 5 KBs, ro LAs, ro angles, 4 Peekers. Descent. lf you want to rappel the route you will have to leave ropes fixed on the last two pitches, because they are severely overhanging. Bibliography. AAJ I992 p. r64-172; Desnivel 73 p. 79· AGUJA DE LA MEDIALUNA

(ca. r9oom). This was named after the shape of the glacier around it: a clear half moon. Ermanno Salvaterra (lT) made the first ascent in I994· Approach. De Agostini to Niponino to Noruegos (N2). 1

RUBIO Y AZUL

350m, 6c Ermanno Salvaterra {IT), 1/1994. 100, T 101 Description. Follows a beautiful line on good granite. Along with Yoie des Benitiers and Frader Pisafe, it is one of the most popular and accessible free routes in the Cerro Torre group. History. Salvaterra dedicated the route to Horacia Bresba (AR), who died while descending Fitz Roy in I994· The name refers to Bresba's blond hair and blue eyes. Salvaterra soloed the first ascent and later repeated the route solo, hoping to climb to the Col de la Paciencia. ln r987

100

Aguja de Ia Medialuna

page 100 Aguja de Ia Medialuna east face.

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101

J

6a

TORRE GROUP

M. Malgarotto and M. Venzo (IT) attempted a line just to the left, retreating roo meters below the summit. Gear. Doubles to #3, TCUs, stoppers. Descent. Rappel the top two pitches and then continue straight down. Bibliography. Salva terra: AA) 1995 p. 208 - 209; Alp III p. r8; Desnivel96 p. 93; High 142 p. 40-41; GHM 1994-95 p. 53; RdM 167 p. 8; B SAT 1994/2 p. 30 -31. Malgarotto: AA) 1989 p. 176; Lo Scarpone 1988/5 p. 6-7; Desnivel36 p. 17. 1.1 CACCIATORE 200m, 6a+ Al Kathy Cosley-Mark Houston (US), 2/1988. A harder alternate start to Rubio y Azul. 100, T 101 Bibliography. AAJ 1989 p. 178. 1.2 VARIATION 200m, 6c Horacio Gratton-Ariel Martorelo (AR), 2007. 100

PUNTA PEREYRA (ca. 2350m). In 2004 Leo Houlding, Kevin Thaw (GB) and Cedar Wright (US) made the first ascent of this small summit just east of the Col de la Paciencia. From the col they climbed one pitch (to 6b). They named it after the late 124, 128 Venezuelan climber jose Pereyra. Approach. As for the Col de la Paciencia; see Cerro Torre Filo Sureste.

Top: Dean Potter climbing on the lower portion of Cerro Torre's SE Ridge. Bottom: Hiking out from the Torre Valley.

102

Punta Pereyra

TORRE GROUP

CERRO TORRE (ca. 3w2m)

Dorte Pietron in the upper portion of the Ragni route, Torre Egger and Aguja Standhardt in the background.

Cerro Torre's Ragni route is so fantastic that it should be in every climber's dream list. But Cerro Torre also has many other good routes, all rather more challenging and difficult than the Ragni, and some of the hardest in the area. Cerro Torre was first noted by the western world in 1782, when the Spanish explorer Antonio de Viedma glimpsed a distant view of Cerro Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre. He wrote in his diary about a peak that resembled a tower, "una torre". More than IOO years later Franscisco "Perito" Moreno, leader of the Comisi6n de Limites (the commission in charge of delimiting the border with Chile), described Cerro Torre in similar words and over time this descriptive name changed gender and stuck. Italians Daniele Chiappa, Mario Conti, Casimiro Ferrari and Pino Negri made the first ascent in 1974. More details of Cerro Torre's early climbing history can be found under the Ragni route, the Compressor Route and the section titled North Face Attempts. As of March 2012, the of non- Compressor Route ascents of Cerro Torre is 22. These include 18 ascents of the Ragni route, plus the 2005 ascent of El Area de los Vientos, the 2008 ascent of the Travesia del Torre also finishing via El Area, the 2012 first ascent of the SE ridge and the 2012 free ascent of the SE ridge. West face

Approach. Piedra del Fraile to Paso Marconi to Circo De los Altares, or De Agostini to Niponino and over the Col Standhardt (N3). 1

RAGNI 600m, 90° M4 Daniele Chiappa-Mario Conti-Casimiro Ferrari- Pi no Negri {IT), 1/1974. 105, 108, 111, T 105, 108

page 105 Cerro Torre upper south and west face.

Description. This route has some ofthe most incredible rime formations to be found anywhere in the world. It is now the peak's normal route and is also its "king line."

104

Cerro Torre

face

TORRE GROUP

To reach the Col de la Esperanza climb easy snow (4oom, 35°) to a short mixed section (room, M2), leading to more low angle snow (3oom, 40°) and the last steeper section that at times can be ice (150m, 55°). From the col climb easy ice (20om, 65°) to the base ofEl Elmo, a large rime mushroom. El Elmo provides the first rime pitch (4om, 85°) and can take anywhere from a half-hour to two hours depending on conditions. Look for natural tunnels through the rime; should you find one, you will save a lot of time and effort. Natural tunnels are usually lined with ice and are fast and easy to climb. From the top of El Elmo traverse to a small saddle (55°) and climb three mixed pitches (70° M4) up and left to the base of an obvious ice sheet. An easy pitch (Sao) leads to the base of the so-called headwall, which can be climbed in one or two pitches (90°). Easy snow (40°) leads to the "' Entering a so meter long natural tunnel in the upper portion of the Ragni route.

Cerro Torre upper west face.

108

Cerro Torre

face

base of the first of three rime mushrooms along the west ridge. Again, look for naturally occurring tunnels. The third mushroom is usually the crux and involves so meters of 90° rime. If you are the first party of the season, this pitch could prove difficult. However, if previous parties have dug a tunnel or half pipe, you might cruise it in 20 minutes. Conditions can vary greatly: on occasions there is a naturally occurring half-pipe, at other times a featureless face. The rime can be consolidated and accept ice- screws, but it can also be completely unconsolidated and even snow-pickets are useless. Should you find unconsolidated rime, consider digging a half-pipe for the initial ro meters and then dig a proper tunnel. Digging a tunnel is time consuming but ensures safety, since it is virtually impossible to fall out. Digging a half-pipe/tunnel might require up to five hours. During the filming of Werner Herzog's "Scream of Stone" ropes were left fixed" on the entire route and some of them are still visible. Apart from these and the mixed section leading to the Col de la Esperanza the route is clean, with only a handful of visible anchors. History. Chiappa, Conti, Ferrari and Negri made the first ascent of Cerro Torre via this route. They were part of a Ragni di Lecco expedition that included P. Acquistapace, G. Alippi, C. Corti, G. Lafranconi, M. Lanzetta, S. Liati, E. Panzeri and A. Zoia. They reached the summit after two months effort, on their last available day, as food ran out. Part of the team was forced to descend, so that the little remaining food would be enough to give the remaining four men a reasonable chance. Walter Bonatti and Carlo Mauri (IT) were the first to attempt this line. In early 1958 they reached the base of a formation they called El Elmo, 120 meters above the Adela- Torre col. They named the latter Col de la Esperanza (col of hope), envisioning an attempt the following year. Folco Doro Altan, an Italian residing in Argentina, organized the expedition, which included Rene Eggmann (AR) and a large support team. They had hoped to attempt the east side of Cerro Torre but the presence of an expedition from Trento, led by Bruno Detassis, drove them to the west face, which Altan had already seen from the lee

Cerro

West face

109

Bibliography. First ascent: AAJ 1974 p. 201; LMeiA 97 p. 302; Mountain 37 p. 10 -n; Mountain 38 p. 26-29; GHM 1974 p. 8-9; CAl- RM 1974/5 p. 163 -172; Ferrari C. (1975) Cerro TorreParete Ovest, Dal Oglio; Be nini A. (1996) Ragni di Lecco-so anni sulle montagne del mondo, Vivalda, Torino

(p. 148 -159). Bonatti 1958: AAJ 1959 p. 317; CAl- RM 1959/1-2 p. 32- 39; Lo Scarpone, 1958/1 p. 1; Lo Scarpone, 1958/2 p. 1; Lo Scarpone, 1958/s p. 1; Lo Scarpone, 1958/20 p. 1; Rho F. and Mauri F. (1997) Carlo Mauri-11 Viaggiatore dei Sogni, Ferrari Ed., Clusone (p. 48- 57); Bonatti W. (1961) Le Mie Montagne, Zanichelli, Bologna (p. 191- 214); Bonatti W. (1979) On the Heights, Diadem Books, London (p. 153 -169); Corriere de g li lta liani, Bs As, Argentina 3/3/58 p. 7- Mauri 1970: Mountain 9 p. 6; Mountain 11 p. 16-23; AAJ 1971 p. 430- 431; Rassegna Alpina, Eurograph Bernardoni, Milano, ltalia 15 p. 84-91. Bragg: R+l 3 p. 6 -u; AAJ 1978 p. sBl. Bearzi: R+l15 p. 42-51; Mountain 119 p. 12; AAJ 1987 p. 212. Fasel: Gregory Crouch (2002) Enduring Patagonia, Random House, USA.

TORRE GROUP

Dorte Pietron climbing the mixed section above the Elmo in the Ragni route.

Cap. During that same expedition, and after the failed attempt on Cerro Torre, Altan, Bonatti, Eggmann and Mauri made the first ascent of Cerro Mariano Moreno, in a 36-hour round trip from the base of the Adelas. Two days later Bonatti and Mauri completed an impressive one-day traverse of the Cordon Adela, climbing six summits, three of them virgin. These are impressive accomplishments even by today's standards. Later in r958 Bonatti and Mauri completed the first ascent of the mighty Gasherbrum IV. In r970 Mauri returned as leader of the "Citta di Lecco" expedition. Amongst its eight members was Casimiro Ferrari. Mauri's team was confronted by continuous bad weather and forced to retreat 250 meters below the summit. After this attempt, Mauri wrote a now famous telegram, saying they had failed once more on the impossible Cerro Torre, a statement that for the first time questioned in public Cesare Maestri's I959 claim. john Bragg, Dave Carman and jay Wilson (US) made the second ascent (of the peak and of the route) in I977, climbing alpine style. Free ascent. Michael Bearzi- Eric Winkelmann (US), r986, using leashes. This was the first free ascent of the peak. First leashless ascent: Bruno Sourzac (FR), 2005. Winter ascent. Gregory Crouch (USA)- David Fasel- Stefan Siegrist- Thomas Ulrich (CH), 7/I999, to the summit plateau, at the base of a 6-meter tall summit mushroom. Solo ascent. Walter Hungerbiihler (CH), r2j20o8. He was the first to solo Torre without using the Compressor Route bolts, embracing the natural difficulties of the peak. He did not rope to other climbers on approach, climb or descent. His was the fourth solo ascent of Cerro Torre. He approached via the Col Standhardt and self-belayed two pitches. On the day of his ascent six other people climbed the route. Female ascent. Dorte Pietron (DE), r2j20o8 (seventh female ascent of the peak but the only one without using Maestri's bolts). Other. In 2008 Bj0rn-Eivind Artun (NO) and Cullen Kirk (US) made the fastest ascent to date, taking a

110

Cerro

West face

mere IS hours from Niponino to the summit via the Col Standhardt. Strategy. Day I: hike from El Chalten to Niponino and camp. Day 2: climb up and over the Col Standhardt and bivy either ISO meters below the Col de la Esperanza or right below El Elmo. Day J: climb to the summit and rappel back to the bivy. Day 4: hike out via the Paso del Viento or the Paso Marconi (about I2 hours either way). You don't need perfect weather to climb over the Col Standhardt, or to reach a bivy below the col or El Elmo. Speed on the approach will vary greatly with snow conditions. ln january or later in the season the glaciers can be open, making the approach difficult. Gear. One each to #2, stoppers, I2 ice -screws, ice -axe wings, 2 or more snow-pickets, stuff sacks to build deadmen, Abalakov tool.

Cerro Torre upper

NWface.

Cerro Torre

face

111

TORRE GROUP

Descent. Rappelling the route is the fastest and safest descent. From Circa de los Altares hike out via the Paso del Viento or the Paso Marconi (about 12 hours either way). It is also possible to climb back up to the Col Standhardt and to return to the Torre Valley (room, difficulty?). It is also possible to rappel theSE ridge, although it is complicated and difficult if you are unfamiliar with it. South face Approach. De Agostini to Niponino to Glaciar Adela Superior (Nla, Nlb). 2

LOS TIEMPOS PERDIDOS

900m, 90° MS+ Fran<;:ois Marsigny (FR)-Andy Parkin (GB), 2/1994, to the Col de la Esperanza. 105, 117, T 117

Kelly Cordes during the first and only link-up of Los Tiempos Perdidos and the Ragni Route.

Description. This route follows a series of ice gullies and smears immediately left of the south face leading to the Col de la Esperanza. Los Tiempos Perdidos to Ragni route link-up is the longest and most serious ice route in the area (rsoom altogether). However, Los Tiempos Perdidos is exposed to objective dangers, stone and serac fall. History. After reaching the Col de la Esperanza, Marsigny and Parkin attempted an independent line on Cerro Torre, climbing five pitches before bad weather forced them to retreat. During the hike out they missed the Paso del Viento and had to exit via the Glaciar Viedma. Regarding the name, Marsigny wrote, "It is in the apparent uselessness of all those lost moments that we achieve our time and perhaps our life." Slovenes P. Podgornik and ). Serbec had attempted this line in 1992. Integral ascent. In 2007 Kelly Cordes and Colin Haley (US) made the first continuous ascent to the summit, linking it to the Ragni route. They crossed the bergschrund at 5:30 a.m. and reached the col at 1:30 p.m. (8 hours). Here they rested for three hours before continuing, bivouacking at the top of the headwall. After a cold night without sleeping bags they reached the summit at 1:30 p.m. the following day, descending via the Compressor Route.

112

Cerro Torre

face

Female ascent. Laurence Monnoyeur (FR) 1997, in 8 hours to the col. Strategy. A competent party should be able to climb to the base of El Elmo in a day, and then reach the summit and descend the following day. Gear. One each to #2, stoppers, 3- 5 KBs, 12 ice- screws, ice-axe wings, 2 or more snow-pickets, stuff sacks to build dead- men, Abalakov tool. Descent. As for the Ragni route. 3

CARA SUR (South Face) !200m, 75° 6b A4 janez jeglic-Silvo Karo (51), 1/1988, to the lee Towers on the SE ridge. 105, 113, 115, 117, T 114

Description. Long, steep and hard; a route from a time when men were far braver than today. The first ascent party drilled 37 holes, 16 at belays and 21 for protection; not many considering the length, difficulty and featureless nature of this route. All the fixed ropes are still in place. History. Along with an impressive route on Bhagirathi Ill this was the high point of)eglic and Karo's ro-year partnership. They climbed for II days over a period of three months, making a whopping 17 trips to the base of the route. They fixed 700 meters of rope and then committed themselves on a route, which was so steep that retreat became impossible. In a frightening storm and with only one rope left they reached the SE ridge at the height of the lee Towers, joining the Compressor Route and along this they retreated. The name of Karo's Mountain Magazine article, recounting the climb, was "Cerro Torre Crazy", which says it all. C. and V. Ravaschietto and A. Sarchi had attempted this line in 1986, retreating after 250 meters. Gear. Big wall rack, ice-screws. Descent. The first ascensionists descended the Compressor Route making 20-meter rappels with their only remaining rope.

Cerro Torre

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Bibliography. First ascent: Vertical 69 p. 46-52; High 142 p. 30- 35; AAJ 1995 p. 210; Montagnes 178 p. 32-37; LMeiA 1994/ 3 p. 6o. Podgornik: High 122 p. 10. Sourzac: AAJ 1998 p. 282- 284; Vertica1Io8 p. 46- 54·

Bibliography. Mountain 125 p. 13; Mountain 129 p. 18- 23; AAJ 1989 p. 66-n; Alp 37 p. 20- 21; GHM 1988 p. 32, p. 42; Planinski vestnik 1988/ 3 p. 97 -101; Ve rticaii6 p. 73 ; Vertical17 p. 8o.

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1200m, 70° 6b A4 Roberto Manni- Erman no Salvaterra- Piergiorgio Vidi (IT), 11/1995, to the Ice Towers on the SE ridge. 105, 115, 117, T 116

Description. This grandest of grand voyages is likely one of the hardest big walls in the world. It climbs a very difficult line up the center of the south face. At the hanging ice field it joins the Cara Sur route, which in turn joins

Bibliography. AAJ 1996 p. 4·10; High 164 p. 25 · 27; Alp 132 p. 25 · 26; RdM 187 p. 8-9; CAI-RM 1996(4 p. 6o- 64; Desniveln7 p. 24-30; GHM 95/96 p. 50-51, p. 65; B SAT 1996(1 p. 25- 27; Alta Montana 3 p. 15-17.

Cerro Torre south face. page 117 Cerro Torre south face and SE ridge.

Cerro Torre

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TORRE GROUP

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theSE ridge. Above the ice-field the first ascent party attempted an independent line to the summit but bad weather and lack of food forced them to retreat. Salvaterra led every pitch and drilled 40 rivets on the entire route, few considering the length and the featureless nature of the face, and placed no protection bolts. History. The first ascensionists spent 24 days on the wall, sleeping in a 200-kilogram box-style portaledge that was transported to the base of the route by helicopter. The climb was completed in capsule style, moving camp six times. When they retreated they cut loose the box, hoping that a parachute would slow its descent and enable them to retrieve it. Unluckily, as the box slid off the ice-field, the parachute collapsed, sending the box on a wild ride. Two days later they were unable to find it at the base of the wall, only managing to recover one of their several haul- bags. In retrospect Salvaterra believes they would have been much better off using modified portaledges, such as those he later used on the east face of Torre and west face of Herron. Commenting on the name of the route, Salvaterra wrote, "lnfinito Sud, an infinite journey on an infinite wall." A year earlier Salvaterra had attempted this line with M. Giovanazzi and F. Leoni. Gear. Big wall rack, ice-screws. Descent. The first ascensionists rappelled the SE ridge, not using the Compressor Route.

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WHAT'S LOVE GOT TO DO WITH IT BOOm, 90° 7a A4 M Janez Jeglic- Marko Lukic-Miha Praprotnik (SI), 2/1994. 113, 117, T 119 Bibliography. AAJ 1995 p. 2.10 · 211; Desnivel105 p. 91; Alp m p. 16-17; High 142 p. 37; LMeiA 1994/3 p. 59; Planinski vestnik 1994/ 5 p. 193-197·

Description. This is another incredibly hard route, involving difficult climbing in every discipline, aid, free and ice. The crux ice pitch climbs a 15cm wide smear. The first ascensionists placed only one protection bolt on the entire route. All fixed ropes are still in place. History. The first ascent party climbed 22 new pitches to join the SE ridge at the height of Banana Crack, from where they retreated. In IO days of climbing, spread over a month and a half, they fixed ropes on 18 of those pitches. This was jegliC's third major addition to the Torre, after the Directisima dellnfierno and the Cara Sur route. They named the route after a well- known Tina Turner song. Gear. Big wall rack, IO ice-screws. Descent. Rappel the lower portion of the SE ridge.

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FILO SURESTE (Southeast Ridge) BOOm, 70° 7a A2 WIS Hayden Kennedy (US)- jason Kruk (CA), 1/2012. 105, 117, 121, 124, 128, T 123

The nth pitch of the SE Ridge, a steep A1 crack climbed by the Anglo-Argentine team in 1968.

page 121 Cerro Torre east face.

Description. A historic line that follows the natural features up the SE ridge. lt was 44 years in the making. The crux is the last 70 vertical meters, right before the summit plateau. A large rime plate can fr6m time to time cover the steep AI crack on the nth pitch. lt is possible to dig through it or to avoid it by climbing immediately left (A2 or 8a). At an obvious ledge 70 meters below the summit plateau there are two options, head up and left via the original route or up and right, following the line of the free ascent. Time will tell which of these becomes the preferred option. The original route climbs left to a single bolt, and then makes a big pendulum to a natural belay (three good Camalots). The next three pitches are short, climbing flakes and discontinuous cracks (7a and A2, some hooking). This section can often be covered by rime and there is no fixed gear except for a single piton. The free line climbs up then slightly right to reach a belay (two good Camalots) just right and level with Maestri's abandoned compressor. From here climb up five meters to two good Camalot placements, then right for ro meters on small edges and holes to another Camalot placement, below the system that leads to the top of the headwall. Protection is poor in the last 20 meters. On the headwall this route and its free variation use four bolt anchors belonging to the now defunct Compressor Route. Three of those anchors are original, dating to I970. There are a few bits of old rope on the first pitches, especially the third and fourth. This is mostly due to hanged rappels. Make short rappels in that section to avoid the same fate . History. The SE ridge was first attempted in early rg68 by an Anglo-Argentine team including Martin Boysen,

120

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TORRE GROUP

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Mick Burke, Pete Crew, Jose Luis Fonrouge and Dougal Haston. They climbed 450 meters above what they christened the Col de la Paciencia (col of patience). In 1970 Maestri followed their line, traversing right two pitches below their high point, drilling a long bolt ladder across a blank slab (see Compressor Route for more info). In 1999 Mauro Mabboni and Ermanno Salvaterra (IT) added two pitches above the 1968 highpoint to rejoin Maestri's line at the base of the Ice Towers. In 2007 Zach Smith and Josh Wharton (US) followed Salvaterra's footsteps and at the base of Maestri's bolt ladder on the Ice Towers climbed left up a 6o-meter ice chimney (Wis) to reach the base of the headwall. Smith and Wharton found the thin overhanging crack on the 12th pitch covered by rime, so they moved left and climbed thin cracks, making a tension traverse right to rejoin the original crack above the mushroom (6c A2).In early 20n Chris Geisler and Kruk (CA) climbed past Smith and Wharton's high point, and then three pitches up the headwall without using Maestri's bolts for protection. They retreated 40 meters below the top of the headwall. In early 2012 Kennedy and Kruk climbed to a point ten meters below Geisler and Kruk's high point and continued left, making a big pendulum and establishing three new pitches to complete the route. They took a mere 13 hours to make this impressive ascent. During the descent Kennedy and Kruk chopped 120 of Maestri's bolts, including the entire headwall and one pitch at the end of the bolt traverse. Free Ascent. Five days after Kennedy and Kruk's ascent, David Lama with Peter Ortner (AT) completed the first free ascent of the SE ridge. At the Al crack on the nth pitch Lama climbed a line similar to that followed by Smith and Wharton (3om, 8a). On the headwall Lama and Ortner followed the Kennedy- Kruk line to where this moves left, and then climbed a two-pitch variation heading up and right (7om, 7b). This was a ground breaking ascent. The fact that it was carried out after the bolt removal, free climbing the headwall on natural gear, made it all the more impressive. However, Lama and Ortner were not alone in the climb. A helicopter flew overhead, filming the pair for most of the ascent and a cameraman

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and two mountain guides were at the summit documenting the climb. Although Lama and Ortner carried their own gear and did not receive any explicit assistance, the possibility of a quick rescue and evacuation in the event of an accident drastically reduced the commitment level and seriousness of their climb. Both physically and psychologically this ascent was vastly different from ascents carried out by entirely self-reliant climbing teams. Approach. Climb 400 meters to the Col de la Paciencia (snow and ice-to 55°; rock to 4). The left variation provides an alternative start when the serac is particularly dangerous or the bergschrund impassable. There are many old fixed ropes in place on this section. Make sure not to add more ropes to this already unfortunate collection. Gear. Doubles to #3, double TCUs, stoppers, RPs, 5-6 pitons, hooks, 3- 6 ice- screws. Descent. Rappel the route. VfA DEL COMPRESOR (Compressor Route) Steve Brewer-jim Bridwell (US) 1/1979. Ezio Alimonta-Carlo Claus-Cesare Maestri (IT), 12/1970

Cerro Torre, Col de Ia Paciencia north slope.

climbed to 6o meters from the top, retreating while still on vertical ground. Description. Using a gas powered air compressor Maestri drilled close to 400 bolts, avoiding natural features and forcing his way upward. In 2012 close to half of those bolts were removed, making the route unclimbable. History. To understand the Compressor Route properly, it's important to comprehend Maestri's motivation for establishing the climb. In early 1970, after another unsuccessful attempt on the mountain's west face, the Italian mountaineer Carlo Mauri sent a telegram back home, saying, "We return safe and sound from the impossible Cerro Torre." This message, published in one of Italy's biggest newspapers, Carriere, was aimed at Maestri, who claimed, and still claims, to have reached the summit by the east and north sides in 1959. This was the first time that anyone publicly expressed doubts in Italy about the 1959 claim. Immediately Maestri decided to return to Cerro Torre, explaining in his book Duemilla Metri della Nostra Vita, "I return and attack their routes, the routes

124

Cerro Torre

East face

they were not able to climb. I will humiliate them, and they will feel ashamed of having doubted me." As part of his "vengeance" Maestri decided to attempt the route in the winter. He used a helicopter to carry equipment to the base of the peak, including a r8okg air compressor, and a wooden hut that was placed on the glacier near the base. Alimonta, Claus and Maestri spent 54 days working on the route in harsh winter conditions, and after climbing 6oo meters they gave up. Also part of the expedition were C. Fava, R. Valentini and P. Vidi. They returned a few months later, in Spring, with a larger team that also included D. Angeli, C. Baldessari, F. Barozzi and j. Spickerman. On this occasion Maestri stopped some 6o meters below the summit, close to the end of the headwall, but still on vertical ground. He dismissed the final ice and snow commenting: "It's just a lump of ice, not really part of the mountain, it will blow away one of these days." Regarding Maestri's high-point, Bridwell commented, "Looking up I saw seven broken bolts leading up and slightly right, but 25 meters of blank granite stretched between the last bolt and the summit snow. My God, I thought, Maestri must have nailed 25 meters of ice tenuously bound to smooth rock. It was a bad joke, and inconsistent with the magazine articles" (Climbing 58 p. 24- 28). Before retreating, and as a "coup de grace" to his "masterpiece", Maestri decided to remove all the bolts, but he gave up after chopping just a handful. To climb those last 35 vertical meters, Bridwell placed a number of rivets, pitons and copperheads. Brewer and Bridwell made the first complete ascent of the route in a three-day round trip from the Glaciar Torre. Winter ascent. Paolo Caruso- Maurizio Giarolli- Ermanno Salvaterra- Andrea Sarchi (IT), 7/1985. Solo ascents. Marco Pedrini (CH), n/1985; Athol Whimp (NZ), 2/1994; Dean Potter (USA), rj2002. All three roped up with other climbers for parts of the approach to the Col de la Paciencia, and Pedrini jumared ropes he found in -situ on the first three pitches. In 2005 Aaron Martin (US) climbed to ro meters from the summit in a r6-hour round trip from Noruegos. In 1980 Bill Denz (NZ) reached

Cerro Torre

East face

125

The "approach" to Col de Ia Paciencia, Aguja Poincenot in the background.

TORRE GROUP

Top: jim Bridwell drilling rivets during the first ascent of the Compressor Route. Bottom: Maestri's infamous compressor, at the base of the last headwall

a point 70 meters below the summit on two occasions. Denz was NZ's best mountaineer at the time, having made impressive ascents in Alaska and Himalaya. Pierre Farges (FR) might have soloed the route in early r983. He was found dead near the base of the peak but some of his gear was found as high up as the headwall. Female ascents. Rossana Manfrini (IT) r987; lnes Bozic (Sl) r987; Kathy Cosley (US) r988; julie Brugger (US) I99r; Monika Kambic (AR-Sl) and Tanja Grmovsek (Sl) first female team ascent of the peak, 2005, using one rope fixed by anotherteam; Di:irte Pietron (DE) zoro. Notes. ln 2007 Samuel and Simon Anthamatten with Cyrille Berthod (CH) made the fastest ascent of the route, climbing from Niponino to the summit in II hours. Controversy. This climb caused and still causes much controversy in mountaineering circles, because of the use of the gas powered air compressor and the number of bolts placed. ln several hundred-meter long sections Maestri ignored the natural features, bolting blank rock alongside. He drilled the 90-meter traverse because he found the Anglo-Argentine line blocked by rime. Higher up, on the lee Towers, he bolted a blank pillar next to an ice chimney, simply because he wasn't a keen ice-climber. Commenting on the zso -meter long bolt ladder on the headwall, Maestri said they could have climbed much of it using pitons but having left most of them at the bergschrund, they were forced to drill their way up. Perhaps more puzzling than Maestri's tactics was the fact that hundreds of alpinists eagerly followed his footsteps. Bolt removal. There are key questions regarding the zorz bolt removal. Should an overwhelmingly manufactured path be in place to facilitate the ascent of such a spectacular and naturally difficult peak. lf we accept such a pathway, because some of us, who wouldn't otherwise have the necessary skills to climb the peak, might enjoy reaching the summit, then it could be argued that the mountain should be made accessible to those who don't climb at all. Has alpinism come to the point where reaching a summit without actually engaging the difficulties of the mountain is considered virtuous and spiritually fulfilling?

126

Cerro Torre

East face

Can a route that so blatantly compromises the wildness of a mountain and the core values of alpinism be considered a cultural asset worth preserving? Maestri's odyssey was an historic event, but should the mountains become a giant open-air museum, displaying all the old bolts, fixed ropes and wall trash of significant ascents? Is the preservation, in situ, of these vestiges of human passage more valuable than the preservation of wildness? Humans have been able to correct the negative effects of other historic events: dams are removed from rivers and creeks; land is rehabilitated where quarries and mines once stood; colonial flags were taken down from the Argentine government buildings. And yet history with all its glory and its lessons survives. A few climbs in the Italian Dolomites, the so-called Direttissimas, contain as many or more holes per meter, and they were put up in a style somewhat reminiscent to that of the Compressor Route. However, the Direttissimas were established long after the first ascents of all the obvious natural lines up a face or peak, and unlike the Compressor Route, they represented an evolution of sorts in the search for virgin terrain. Routes with a considerable amount of drilling in places like Yosemite are also not comparable to the Compressor Route: they used bolts to connect natural features rather than to avoid them. Also one should note that neither these routes nor the Direttissimas are the normal - easiest - route up a peak, let alone to an iconic, freestanding summit. Therefore, they don't alter drastically the character of a whole peak as the Compressor Route did. And why should the default setting be to leave a contentious installation, rather than remove it? The latter is far closer to the original, non-controversial state. ls the need for vengeance by one climber, Maestri, and the complacency of hundreds of repeat ascensionists, strong enough arguments for preserving such a severe disfigurement to a mountain as grand as Cerro Torre? Ultimately, climbers will remain divided over whether the route was a cultural asset worth preserving or whether the mountain is an icon of wilderness adventure and a natural monument worth recuperating.

Cerro Torre

East face

127

Top: Climbing in the Ice Towers, in the middle section of the SE Ridge and Compressor Route. Bottom: The lower portion of the SE Ridge and Compressor Route, Aguja Standhardt in the background.

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TORRE GROUP

6.1 SLOVENE SIT-START LINK-UP 1700m, 70° 7a A2 (600m new), Andrej Grmovsek-Silvo Karo (SI) 1/2005.

Description. A phenomenal link-up, the first to introduce the bouldering "sit start" concept to alpine terrain. The climbing is outstanding. Climb Rubio y Azul (350m, 6c) to the summit of Aguja de la Medialuna, then pass Las Tres Hermanas, three small towers on the ridge, via a few pitches up to 6c+ and a 40-meter rappel, followed by a pitch to regain the ridge, leading to easier climbing (400m, s), passing under an obvious 30-meter-high spire that Grmovsek and Karo christened Torrisimo. Another rappel leads to the base of Punta Pereyra, which involves 300 meters with difficulties to 6c+. From its top a traverse and one rappel lead to the Col de la Paciencia. From there, follow theSE ridge to the summit. 100, 128, T 101 History. The first ascent party reached the Col de la Paciencia in II hours and climbed the SE ridge via the Compressor Route to reach the summit 16 hours later, after 28 hours on the go. Gear. As for the SE ridge. Descent. Rappel the SE ridge. 6.2 THE LONG RUN LINK-UP 2000m, 75° 7a A2 M6 (600m new), Stephen Koch-Dean Potter (US)-Marko Prezelj (SI), 1/2006.

Description. The lowest of all possible "sit starts" to Torre, following an

128

Cerro Torre

East face

obvious and appealing "line of strength." Climb the right side of Mochito (250m, 6a), then continue via El Mocho's Voie des Benitiers (4oom, 6c Ao), crossing the summit making several rappels on the west side to reach a snow ridge leading to, then past, Punta Pereyra on its south side. A steep mixed section below the Col de la Paciencia is the crux. Once at the col climb the SE ridge to the top. Wind slabs can form on sections of the ridge between El Mocho and the Col de la Paciencia. History. The first ascent party started up Mochito before dawn, reached the Col de la Paciencia by I p.m., and then climbed the SE ridge via the Compressor Route, arriving on the summit at I p.m. the next day. Gear. As for the SE ridge. 93, 117, 121, 128, T 92, 123 Descent. Rappel the SE ridge. 6.3 THE CORKSCREW LINK- UP !200m, 90° 6b Al (200m new) Ole Lied- Trym Atie Saeland (NO) 12/2008.

Description. This is a difficult and long "line of weakness." Climb the SE ridge to the base of the lee Towers, then traverse west across the hanging ice-field above the south face to join the Ragni above El Elmo. Follow the 105, 106, 108, 117, 124 Ragni to the summit. History. This "line of weakness" was discussed for 50 years before it was finally climbed. Maestri and partners noticed this line during a fly-by and wrote about it back in I958. Ten years later Boysen and partners hoped to try it, as a plausible alternative to the upper headwall. Lied and Saeland took two days to complete the climb, bivouacking at El Elmo before completing the Ragni route the next morning. Initially, they had hoped to avoid the Compressor Route bolts but finding the Al crack on the nth pitch covered by rime, they climbed the bolt traverse to reach the lee Towers. They descended the SE ridge. Gear. Doubles to #2, one #3, TCUs, stoppers, RPs, 3-5 pitons, IO to I2 ice-screws, ice-axe wings, 2 or more snow-pickets, stuff sacks to build dead-men. Descent. Rappel the SE ridge.

Cerro Torre

East face

129

Bibliography. Boysen: A) 1968 p. 186-198; Mountain Craft 81 p. 26- 32; Haston D. (1972) In High Places, Cassell & Company, London (p. 96 -106). Alimonta: AAJ 1971 p. 431; Lo Scarpone 1971/6 p. 1- 2; Mountain 15 p. 8; Mountain 16 p. 23- 24; Mountain 23 p. 20-27, p. 30·37; LMe iA 82 p. 75; LMeiA 91 p. 22- 26; AAJ 1973 p. 328- 329; Fava C. (1999) Patagonia, Terra di Sogni lnfrati, Centro Documentazione Alpin a, Torino; Maestri C.

and F. (1972) Duemila Metri della Nostra Vita, Garzanti, Milano; Maestri C. (1981) II Ragno delle Dolomiti, Rizzoli, Milano. Brewer: AAJ 1980 p. 375- 382; Mountain 66 p. n; Mountain 69 p. 16; Mountain 73 p. 40- 41; Climbing 58 p. 24- 28; Alpinismus 1980/6 p. 41- 45; Bridwell j. (1992) Climbing Adventures, ICS Books, Merrillville-IN, USA (p. 75- 85); Bridwell ). (1999) The Mirrors in the Cliffs, Ed: jim Perrin, Baton Wicks, London (p. 6o- 66). Caruso: Mountain 108 p. 15; Alp 8 p. 36- 51; AAJ 1986 p. 204- 205; B SAT 1985/4 p. 129-130; Lo Scarpone 1985/19 p. 8. Pedrini: Mountain no p. 20-23; Alp 12 p 14; AAJ 1986 p. 205; AAJ 1987 p. 103 -108; Desnivel 26 p. 35-39; Alp 172 p. 46-51 (by F. Mariani). Denz: NZ A) 1981 p. 86-92. Whimp: High 142 p. 38; Wild (winter) 1994 p. 45·

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4

Matjaz Fistravec-Janez Jeglic-Silvo Karo-Francek Knez-Pavle Kozjek- Peter Podgornik (SI), l/1986. Description. This is an incredibly difficult line. Only five bolts were placed, all at belays. It joins the SE ridge 300 meters below the summit (uoom altogether). All the fixed ropes used were left in place, although in the first half of the route they were fixed on the slabs right of the ascent line. 121, T 130 History. An unknown team had attempted this line previously, retreating after a couple of pitches. The first ascent party fixed 8oo meters of rope over a 35-day period. During the final push, they made one bivouac at the base of the headwall, where their line joins the SE ridge, which they then climbed via the Compressor Route. Also part of the team were B. Belehar, S. Klemenc and S. Sveticic. The original route name is in Slovene and means Hell's Direct, which has been badly translated as Devil's Direct. Strategy. To avoid the difficult and dangerous gully at the start, consider climbing the lower part of the American route on Torre Egger to the obvious triangular snowfield, and then traverse left across slabs to join Peklenska Direttissima at the end of the gully - the start of the crux section. This link-up would be a safer, faster alternative. Gear. Big wall rack, ice -screws.

130

I

"8

PEKLENSKA DIRETTISSIMA

(Directisima dellnfierno)

Cerro Torre

East face

Descent. Rappel the SE ridge. Should you decide to rappel the route, beware that in the lower third the rappel stations are on the slabs immediately north of the gully. Bibliography. Mountain ro8 p. r5; MJ r986 p. 205; MJ r987 p. II4 - r22; Alp I2 p. r4; Pefialara 442 p. 37; Planinski vestnik r986j2 p. 82; Planinski vestnik r986/4 p. r48- r56; Planinski vestnik r987/r p. rr - r3. 8 Giacomelli- Orlandi attempt Between 2005 and 2009 Fabio Giacomelli and Elio Orlandi (lT) made several attempts to climb a new route between Quinque Anni ad Paradisum and Peklenska Direttissima. They first attempted the route in the summer of 2005-06, and leaving fixed ropes in place from one season to the next, kept improving their high point. ln late 2009, during their fourth season and after yet another month spent working on the route, they reached a point 350 meters below the summit. Descending separately, Giacomelli was swept by an avalanche at the base of the route and killed. Orlandi only realized that something had gone wrong when he returned to their snowcave and found it empty. He then spent three days looking for Giacomelli and eventually found his body, which was later recovered. Since it is clear that Orlandi has unfinished business with this route, having left all fixed ropes and gear in place, it should be considered "off-limits." Both the line and high point marked in the photodiagrams are approximate . .-PH 121 9

QUINQUE ANNI AD PARADISUM

900m, 90° 6c A4 Alessandro Beltrami-Giacomo Rossetti - Erman no Salvaterra {IT), ll/2004.

Description. A beautiful line climbed in impressively good style. This is Salvaterra's masterpiece. The large flake half way up was christened "Dalai Lama," a play on words since lama means flake in Italian. Where the route heads left to the lee Towers, there is a narrow and difficult, 70-meter long ice runnel. lt joins theSE ridge 300 meters below the summit (r20om altogether). History. Andrea Sarchi was the first to talk openly about attempting the east face, in r985. Sarchi was the

Cerro Torre ._ East face

131

The difficult mixed gully that characterizes the first half of Peklenska

TORRE GROUP

Bibliography. High 165

p. 40 ; AAJ 1997 p. 245.

inspiration behind many big projects. He was the first to attempt Torre's south face, and also came up with the idea of the Torre Traverse. Salvaterra made an attempt in 2001 with P. Calza, M. Giovanazzi and W. Gobbi, climbing 700 meters before retreating after two of them suffered propane poisoning. Beltrami, Rossetti and Salvaterra climbed capsule style, completing the climb in eight days. They had hoped to climb an independent line to the summit via an ice chimney leading onto the north face . However, the unconsolidated ice proved too dangerous. Early attempts to climb the east face include a Polish team, which in 1996 reached a point 150 meters above the triangular snowfield. The first ascent party climbed the headwall via the Compres121 sor Route. Gear. Big wall rack, 8- 9 ice-screws. Descent. Rappel the route. 10

Burke- Proctor attempt 121, 135

ln 1978 Ben Campbell -Kelly and Brian Wyvill (GB) climbed the American Torre Egger route to the base of the big dihedral on the east face of Cerro Torre. They made some progress up the dihedral before retreating, having spent 28 days on the wall in capsule style, using a semi-rigid box portaledge that they left at the base of the dihedral. ln 1980 Wyvill returned with Geoff Birtles, Phil Burke and Tom Proctor (GB). When Birtles and Wyvill had to leave, Burke and Proctor made their attempt. Climbing capsule style from the box, the two managed to reach a point 30 meters below the west ridge and the Ragni route. To that point they had climbed woo meters, finding difficulties to 8oo 6c A4 M6. The pair entered the dihedral from the left (6b A2) and then free climbed several bomb-bay off-width cracks, before resorting to difficult aid climbing near the top (A4). Burke and Proctor then traversed horizontally right (25m) to the edge of the north face . This section of the face is almost vertical, veneered in ice and sports many rime features. They continued for two horizontal pitches across a blank wall via a truly amazing finger traverse (65m, 6b) to

132

Cerro Torre

East face

reach a steep ice choked corner system (the main groove system on the north face). They then climbed three pitches (3om, som, 25m) up the corner/groove (aid, mixed and free). Burke, one of the best British alpinists at the time, said that the second to last pitch was the hardest he had ever led. They reached a point immediately below the rime mushrooms that crown the north face and then attempted to climb them. Unfortunately, they were unable to get any purchase and gave up. Their highpoint was, at the most, 30 meters below the west ridge and barely 30 meters left (east) of the 2005 route El Area. To protect the bomb-bay off-widths in the dihedral, Proctor had designed a camming unit that extended to 35 centimeters, a hybrid between a Big Bro and Bergsport joker cam, equivalent to a Camalot #IO. Proctor was one of the best free climbers of his generation and was known as the "Hydraulic Man" for his legendary strength. All the fixed ropes used during this attempt were left in place. Bibliography. Campbell- Kelly: Mountain 6r p. r3; AAJ I979 p. 256. Burke: AA) r982 p. I93- I94; Mountain 78 p. r4; Mountain 79 p. 40 -43; RdM 46 p. 233. 11

EL ARCADE LOS VIENTOS SSOm, 60° 6b+ Cl Alessandro Beltrami -Erman no Salvaterra, {IT)- Rolando Garibotti (AR), 11/2005. 105, 108, ll1, 121, 151

Description. This links the American Torre Egger route with the Ragni. The vertical gain is r2oo meters and the difficulties 90° 6b+ Cl. It is the only line that climbs Torre from the north. The pitches on the NW and north face are steep and clean, well worth the effort required to get there. The "approach" to the Col de !a Conquista is varied and involves much alpine "groveling." The initial dihedral is littered with fixed ropes, some dating back to I959 and some as new as 2004. Climb the American route to the prominent triangular snowfield. From there climb four pitches up slabs left of the obvious ice runnel, then make one short rappel back into the American line, which is followed to reach a small shoulder 40 meters above the Col de !a Conquista.

Cerro Torre

East face

133

The last pitch of the north face, with the south face of Torre Egger in the background.

TORRE GROUP

The second to last pitch of the north face, with the south face of Torre Egger in the background.

A 20-meter rappel leads to the NW face. Climb several mixed pitches to reach steep ground. Here, aid climbing and a rs-meter pendulum is needed to gain a small ledge on the north ridge. Climb four pitches up discontinuous flakes and cracks, with difficulties to 6b and Cl, to arrive at the top of the north face and the west ridge. Here, the first ascent party climbed straight up, but it is better to make a short rappel to the south (3om) to join the Ragni route, then climb the last three pitches (90°) to the summit. No protection bolts were placed during this ascent but Garibotti placed one protection bolt in 2008, when he repeated the upper portion of El Area during the first ascent of the Torre Traverse. History. The evening before they began the ascent the first ascensionists fixed their two climbing ropes on the start of the route. The following day, short-fixing almost every pitch, they climbed 900 meters, reaching the small ledge on the north ridge. They climbed two pitches on the north face, then rappelled to the ledge to bivouac. The following day they climbed to the top of the north face and joined the Ragni route. ln this section they failed to notice two natural tunnels and spent close to ro hours digging their way through the last three rime mushrooms, reaching the summit at n p.m. They bivouacked below the summit and descended the Compressor Route the next morning. Certain sections of El Area had been climbed on previous unsuccessful attempts (there had been many). Salvaterra, together with A. Cavallaro and G. Bonvicini (lT), had climbed the four slab pitches above the triangular snowfield during an attempt in r992. T. Bonapace, G. Diinser and T. Ponholzer (AT) had climbed four of the pitches on the NW face during an attempt in I993, while M. Giarolli, E. Orlandi and 0 . Ravizza (lT) had climbed the other three pitches on the face during an attempt in I994· Gear. Doubles to #3, double TCUs, stoppers, 4 - 6 ice-screws, ice-axe wings, 2 or more snow-pickets, stuff sacks to build dead-men. Descent. Rappel the SE ridge.

134

Cerro Torre

East face

• The last pitch of the north face, during a repeat ascent ofthe upper portion of El Area de los

-4 Cerro Torre north face .

Cerro Torre

North face

135

TORRE GROUP

Attempt lines to the Col de la Conquista A number of different lines have -been climbed during attempts to reach the north face . In 1992 G. Bonvicini, A. Cavallaro and E. Salvaterra (IT) climbed a ramp-like feature up and left from the triangular snowfield (150m, 6b). In 1993 T. Bonapace and T. Ponholzer (AT) climbed the obvious ice runnel just right of the triangular snowfield (150m, 85°). In 2004 a team abandoned fixed ropes along the Bona pace- Ponholzer line. They are still in place. 12.1 In 1999 M. Giarolli and E. Orlandi (IT) climbed steep cracks right of the American Torre Egger route, joining it after 300 meters (6b Al). They christened this variant "Un 121 sogno interrotto."

.,_ North face The north face is roughly 450-meter high (about 12 pitches). The Burke- Proctor attempt climbs much of the upper left side of the face, while El Area climbs the upper right. A complete ascent of the face is still pending. North face attempts One attempt that is loosely linked to the north face took place in late january 1959, when Toni Egger (AT) and Cesare Maestri (IT) climbed on the east face of Torre. With help from Cesarino Fava (IT) they spent two weeks fixing ropes up a 250-meter dihedral (the same as later climbed by Bragg, Donini and Wilson to make the first ascent of Torre Egger) to reach the base of an obvious triangular snowfield, where they made a gear stash. Sometime later Egger perished. In 1974 his body appeared on the glacier some goo meters below the base of the route. Although Maestri claims to have climbed to the summit, serious inconsistencies in his many accounts, and lack of traces of passage above the triangular snowfield, disprove his claims. Although Maestri never reached the Egger- Torre col, he took the liberty of christening it Col de la Conquista (col of conquest). This was in response to Bonatti and

136

Cerro Torre

North face

Mauri naming the Adela-Torre col the Col de la Esperanza (col of hope). Regarding the name Maestri explained: "In the mountains there is no such thing as hope, only the will to conquer. Hope is the weapon of the poor." Maestri not only lied about his I959 ascent, but did so arrogantly, belittling Bonatti and Mauri, who at the time were at the height of their careers. When a person's will to conquer allows the use of such tools as tall tales, then hope, the weapon of the honest, becomes meaningless indeed. 12.2

In late I999 Toni Ponholzer and Franz Steiger (AT) attempted a line in the center of the north face, climbing eight pitches to a point level with the summit of Torre Egger. At their high point they were likely just 20 meters to the right of Burke and Proctor's line and about So meters below the west ridge. Ponholzer and Steiger climbed alpine style (and without sleeping bags), ascending goo meters in three days. Earlier in I999 M. Giarolli and E. Orlandi (IT) had climbed three pitches along the same 121, 135 line, abandoning their fixed ropes. ._ NWface Approach. Piedra del Fraile to Paso Marconi to Circo De los Altares, or De Agostini to Niponino and over the Col Standhardt (N3). 12.3 NW face attempts

In late I994 M. Giarolli, E. Orlandi and 0. Ravizza (IT) attempted a line on the NW face. They reached the north ridge but then retreated, 350 meters below the summit (7oom, 75° 6a Alto that point). Arguing that they had joined the line claimed by Maestri in I959, Giarolli and partners announced they had completed a new route. Considering that no trace of passage from Maestri has ever been found above the triangular snowfield, a good 6oo meters lower, their claim of a new route was rather farfetched. Their attempt was made in capsule style over eight days. They dedicated it to Fabio Stedile, a climber from Trento, who died while descending the SE ridge dur111, 151 ing the same weather window.

Cerro Torre

North face

137

North face attemp ts bibliography. Maestri: AAJ I959 p. 3I7 -3I8; AAJ I973 p. 478; Ascent I97I vi/5 p. 47; Mountain 9 p. 32; Mountain 18 p. 41-42; Mountain 23 p. 20-27, p. 30 -37; Mountain 42 p. 38- 43; Mountain Craft 8I p. 22- 25; Mountain Re-

view 9 p. 28 - 37; LMeA 1960/4 p. 206-213; LMeA I973/1 p. 23- 26; Vertical 3 p. 73; Alp 126 p. 38-44; B SAT I959/2 p. I-9, p. 22-31; CAl- RM 1959/1-2 p. n2, p. n4; CAl- RM I96I/7- 8 p. 205- 2n; El Hagar 1959/2570 p. 77 - 81; El Hagar 1959/2572 p. 76; La Montana n p. 77- 8o; La Montana 13 p. 65- 69; La Opinion, 27. 2. 1959, p. I3, Rio Gallegos; Lo Scarpone 1958/23 p. 1; Lo Scarpone 1959/1 p. I; Lo Scarpone 1959/4 p. 1; Lo Scarpone I959/5 p. I; Lo Scarpone 1959/6 p. 1; Lo Scarpone 1959/7 p. 1; L'Europeo 704 (12. 4· 1959) p. 30-36; Maestri C. (1961)

e

Arrampicare il mio Mestiere, Garzanti,

Milano (p. 109-I71); Maestri C. (1981) II Ragno delle Dolomiti, Rizzo li, Milano; Maestri C. (1996) ... E se Ia vita continua, Baldini & Castaldi, Milano; Fava C. (1999) Patagonia, Terra di sogni infrati,

CDA, Torino; Cli mbing 185 p. 72-81, 130 -134; Rock and Ice 3 p. 12 -15; La Prensa 16/2/59 p. 7; Carriere degli ltaliani 16/2/59 p. 1, 19/2/59 p. 3· Bona pace: Gipfelsturmer 1996 p. 21; AAJ 1994 p. 181, p. 184. Bonvicini: CAl- RM 1993/5 p. 86. Giarolli: High 203 p. 82; AAJ 1999 p. m; Alp 172 p. 108.

TORRE GROUP

Bibliography. Giarolli: CAl- RM 1995/2 p. 63- 64; AAJ 1995 p. 212- 213; Desnivel102 p. 91; Alp 126 p. 28- 29; High 152 p. 13; GHM 1994-95 p. 53; B SAT 1995/1 p. 43- 44; Lo Scarpone 1995/3 p. 12; RdM 174 p. 8, p. 10.

A year earlier, in I993, traversing from the east via the Col de la Conquista, T. Bonapace, G. Dunser and T. Ponholzer (AT) climbed four pitches that Giarolli repeated as part of his incomplete line.ln 2005 those pitches and the last three of Giarolli's line were climbed as part of El Area. ln 20I2 liiaki Cousirrat and Carlos Molina (AR) climbed Giarolli's line to join El Area, retreating two pitches below the north ridge. They climbed to that point in two days. Considering that Cousirrat and Molina joined an existing route, their ascent could be called the first ascent of this line. Unfortunately the earlier claim of a new route muddies things up, so the first ascent will have to wait for a complete ascent to the summit. 12.4 M. Bearzi-E. Winkelman attempt (US) I989 They gave up after 300 meters. 151 TRAVERSES AND LINK-UPS

._

Aguja Standhardt, Punta Herron, Torre Egger and Cerro Torre TRAVESfA DEL TORRE (Torre Traverse) l600m, 90° 6b+ Cl Rolando Garibotti (AR)-Colin Haley (US), l/2008.

121, 135, 143, 148,151,153,156

Description. A scenic rollercoaster ride across some of the most impressive summits in the massif. The climbing is never especially hard, but the ascent requires efficiency and good planning. Climb Aguja Standhardt via Exocet (5oom, 5 Wl5+), rappel to the Col de los Sueiios (250m), climb Punta Herron via Spigolo dei Bimbi - many variations possible (350m, goo 6b), rappel to the Col de Lux (6om), climb Torre Egger via the Huber- Schnarf (zoom, Soo 6b), rappel a line immediately west of the American route (350m), climb the upper half of El Area de los Vientos to the west ridge (450m, 70° 6b+ Cr) and then follow the last section of the Ragni route (r5om, 90°) and descend the SE ridge. History. Andrea Sarchi (lT) is widely credited for having come up with the idea, sometime in the mid rg8os. Giarolli, Orlandi, Salva terra and Sarchi made the first attempts in the late rg8os. ln I99I Salvaterra, with A. Cavallaro

138

Torre

Traverses and link-ups

and F. Vidi, climbed Aguja Standhardt and continued to Punta Herron (see Spigolo dei Bimbi). Over the following IS years this traverse saw a few attempts, but none passed Salvaterra's "high point." In 2oos, Thomas Huber (DE) and Andi Schnarf (CH) climbed Aguja Standhardt via Festerville, then continued, summitting Punta Herron and descending to the Col de Lux where they bivouacked. The following morning they climbed to the top of Torre Egger and rappelled Titanic (see Huber -Schnarf). In late 2007 Garibotti and Hans Johnstone (US) climbed Aguja Standhardt via Festerville and continued over Punta Herron and Torre Egger. On their third day they climbed six pitches up El Area but were stopped by rime on vertical ground. During the same weather window, and climbing a few hours behind, A. Beltrami, M. Mase, F. Salvadei and Salvaterra (IT) climbed Aguja Standhardt via Otra Vez, then continued over Punta Herron and Torre Egger, descending from the Col de la Conquista. In early 2008 Garibotti and Haley started in unsettled weather, climbing Aguja Standhardt via Exocet and then continuing up Spigolo dei Bimbi to bivy right below the summit of Punta Herron. The second day they climbed over Punta Herron and Torre Egger, stopping to bivouac around 4 p.m. because of unusually warm weather. On day three they climbed the upper half of El Area and reached part way up the Ragni route's final rime mushroom before deciding to bivouac. On day four they climbed the second half of the final mushroom, reached the summit and descended the SE ridge. Strategy. The Col de los Sueiios is not a good place to bivouac. A competent party should be able to climb over Aguja Standhardt and reach the base of Punta Herron's mushroom, where there is a good bivy ledge. On Cerro Torre there are good ledges after the rappel onto the NW face (exposed to falling debris), four pitches up the NW face (preferred), and on joining the north ridge (small but comfortable). Gear. The first ascent party used doubles to #2, one #3, double TCUs, IS stoppers, 8 ice-screws, 2 snow -pickets and one stuff sack to build a dead -man. Descent. Rappel the SE ridge or the Ragni route.

Torre

Traverses and link - ups

139

Top: Climbing Spigolo dei Bimbi on Punta Herron during the first ascent of the Travesfa del Torre. Bottom: Climbing the HuberSchnarf on Torre Egger during the first ascent of the Travesfa del Torre.

TORRE GROUP

TORRE EGGER (ca. 2850 m). Torre Egger is the most difficult peak in the massif, possibly the most difficult in all Patagonia. lt has many phenomenal climbs, from the ice extravaganza ofVenas Azules, to the freeclimbing fun of the Spigolo dei Bimbi to Huber- Schnarflink-up, to difficult aid routes such as Badlands and Psycho Vertical. ln recent years the normal route has become the Martin- O'N eilllink- up to Titanic, but this is far from being the best route on the peak.

Climbing steep ice on the lower east face of Cerro Torre during the first ascent of Torre Egger.

The imposing tower was named after Austrian alpinist Toni Egger (1926 - 1959). Egger died while attempting to climb a line on the east face of Cerro Torre. He was born in Bolzano but in 1950 moved to Lienz, where he discovered mountains, falling in love immediately and completing mountain guide courses a year later. He was well known for being able to climb fast without placing much protection: his partners often had to ask him to place more pitons. His list of ascents is long and includes many routes in the eastern Alps that at the time of his ascents were considered extremely difficult: the Solleder on Civetta's NW face, the north face of Cima Ovest, Spigolo Giallo on Cima Piccola, the Cassin on Cima Piccolissima and the north face of Grogglockner. ln 1954 with Gottfried Mayr he climbed the north face of Cima Ovest and the north face of Cima Grande in rr hours. He also made several significant solo ascents, including Spigolo Giallo in one hour and the Solleder on Civetta in a mere four hours. ln 1955 he climbed the NE face of Badile and Grand Capucin. ln 1956 he soloed Aiguille Noire, Dent du Geant, the north face of Cima Grande (in four hours) and made an ascent of the south face of the Aiguille du Midi. Later that year he participated in an expedition to Turkey. ln 1957 he went to Peru, to complete the first ascent of the mountain that made him famous: jirishanca (6127 m), which was one of the most difficult ascents in the Andes at the time. His success as an alpinist helped him professionally, becoming the director of the Tyrol Alpine School in lnnsbruck. He was one of the leading alpinists of his generation.

140

Torre Egger

South and SE face Approach. De Agostini to Niponino to Noruegos to Glaciar Torre Superior (N2).

13

AMERICANA 950m, 80° 5+ A4 John Bragg-Jim Donini-Jay Wilson (US), 2.1976

Description. Climbs an obvious dihedral on Cerro Torre's east face (250m, 70° 6b Cl), traverses right across the triangular snowfield (8om, 50°), and then makes a short rappel to reach a rock buttress right of an obvious ice runnel. Five pitches up this buttress (20om, s+ A2) lead to easier ground (worn, 65° 3). A short traverse down and

Torre Egger upper

south and SE face.

Torre

South face

141

TORRE GROUP 27 85 "

right leads to a ramp and the Col de la Conquista (room, 65° M4). A traverse right leads to an overhang. This is the crux and the first ascensionists overcame it by lassoing a flake above (A4, one protection bolt in place). Sustained climbing (r5om, 5+ Al) now leads to an ice runnel and the base of the summit mushroom. Climb up and left to the top. The first ascent party completed the route in 37 pitches. They placed II bolts, all but one at belays. 121, 145, 147 Many variations to the lower part of this line have been climbed during attempts to reach the north face of Cerro Torre (see Attempt lines to the Col de la Conquista and El Area de los Vientos). History. The first ascent party fixed 400 meters of rope, placed a Whillans Box, and then climbed to the summit in a five-day push. Strategy. A competent party should be able to repeat this route in three days, bivouacking at the Col de la Conquista. lt is best to climb the initial dihedral early, before the sun makes it run with water. Gear. Doubles to #3, one #4, one and a half set TCUs, stoppers, RPs, 5-6 ice- screws, ro- I3 pitons, hooks. Descent. From the summit rappel straight to the Col de la Conquista (first two rappels are from Abalakovs), slightly east of the line of ascent. From there rappel the route. Bibliography. AAJ I976 p. 507; AA) I977 p. 49- 56; Mountain 5I p. I9- 27; NG I976/I2 p. 8r2-823; R+l78 p. 34-36.

26 70 " 5 25

so ·

24 6a Al 23 6a Al

/)llw 0

II

'Will /I\

0

20 6a+

/I/

/

I\ 19 18 6a Al

7Sm

ID

17 5+A2

,,

16 6a Al

II/

14 6a AO

Jf

13 A2 12 A2 11 6aAO

90m

0

15 6a AO

f 'Ill

SOm

7Sm

10 A3

9 Al

+

9Sm

r,

40m

8 6c Al 7 6a 6 6bAO 5 90" A2

2 90 " South face

\.lli l

21 6a A2

3 60"

Torre

I,

I

22 6a Al

4 40 "

142

• I

(

I I

4

1 75 . Psyc ho Vertical

180m

14

VENAS AZULES 350m, 95° Cl Bj0rn-Eivind Artun and Ole Lied (NO), 12/2011.

Description. A long "approach" to the Col de laConquista leads to one of the most impressive ice formations in the area, a steep ice vein and two giant, vertical rime mushrooms. The climbing involves much steep ice, with sections over 90° that can best be described as the "Ragni route on steroids". 121, 143 Climb the American route, with the El Area variations, to the Col de la Conquista (6oom, 70° 6b+ Cl). From the col climb seven pitches to the summit (Ms, 90°, 90° and Cl, 90°, 95°, 90°, 90°). Difficulties might vary greatly, depending on conditions (950m altogether). History. The first ascent was completed in alpine style over two days. The first ascensionists climbed to the col in one day and bivouacked, then climbed to the summit and back on day two. Gear. Doubles to #2, one #3, TCUs, stoppers, 9-r2 ice -screws. Descent. From the summit rappel straight to the Col de la Conquista (first two rappels are from Abalakovs), slightly east of the line of ascent. From there rappel the route. 15

PSYCHO VERTICAL 900m, 90° 6c A3 Janez Jeglic- Silvo Karo-Francek Knez (51), 12/1986.

Description. Karo considers this the best of the many new routes he climbed in the area and reckons it might go free. It starts up the dangerous gully between Torre Egger and Cerro Torre and then follows a steep crack system to an obvious dihedral. The last two pitches are common with the Americana (950m altogether). All fixed ropes used are still in place. 141, 145, 147, T 142 History. At the time jeglic, Karo and Knez were one of the world's strongest alpine climbing partnerships. They fixed 550 meters of rope and then climbed to the summit and back in 22 hours. Their total climbing time, including placing the fixed ropes, was 54 hours. Gear. Doubles and some triples to #4, one each to #6, double TCUs, stoppers, I2 - IS pitons, 6 ice - screws. Torre Egger south

face.

Torre

South face

143

TORRE GROUP 45m 90 " 19

Bibliography. Mountain II9 p. n;

MJ 1987 p. 209; MJ 1988 p. 48- 51; RdM 85 p. 19; Alp 25 p. 18; Desnivel 30 p. 29. 16 30m A1

16

15 60m W14+ A1

BADLANDS 850m, 90° 6b A3 Wl4+ Conrad Anker- Steve Gerberding- jay Smith (US), 12/1994. 141, 147, T 144

14 60m A2+

13 60m A3

12 60mA2

11 55m 6a+ A1

10 60m 6b ow 9 60m A1 8 50m 6a+ A1 \

7 60m A1

I

1 1

Description. An impressive climb involving lots of hard aid on excellent rock. The first ascent party climbed the summit mushroom via its east face, but traversing west onto the south face, and finishing via the Americana, might be the preferred option. History. It took four months of effort, spread over two seasons, to finish this difficult route. The first ascent party used around 700 meters of fixed rope, but retrieved it all, leaving the climb clean. This is a commendable effort in an area where many parties abandon their fixed ropes. Smith considers this the most difficult ascent of his long and fruitful career. Gear. Big wall rack, 6 ice-screws. Bibliography. MJ 1996 p. 19-27; High 152 p. 14- 15; Desnivel 106 p. 91 ; Klettern 1996/5 p. 84- 89; Vertical 78 p. 47-48.

I

6 45m 6a+ A2 5 50m 5+ A1

4 60m 5+

Q

I

., East face Approach. De Agostini to Niponino to Noruegos to Glaciar Torre Superior (N2).

'

3 60mWI3 2 20m 5+ 1 60m 5+ A1

\1 ,"/

144

Torre

South face

17

TITANIC 950m, 90° 6a A2 Maurizio Giarolli- Elio Orlandi (IT), 11/1987. 141, 156, T 146

Description. The six-pitch hanging ice runnel in the lower half is the unrepeated hidden jewel of this climb. The first ascent party climbed the summit mushroom via its east face , but traversing west, onto the south face and finishing via the Americana might be the preferred route. All the fixed ropes used during the ascent are still in place. History. G. Cominelli, L. Nadali and A. Sarchi (lT) climbed to the snowfield half way up leaving 500 meters of rope fixed. A month later Giarolli and Orlandi jumared the fixed ropes and climbed the second half of the route. This route has yet to be repeated and still awaits a continuous ascent. The name refers to the obvious rock prow high up, reminiscent of a ship's prow. Gear. Doubles to #3, one # 4, TCUs, stoppers, RPs, 8-12 ice-screws, I2 pitons. Descent. Rappel the route. Bibliography. Lo Scarpone 1988/9 p.8-g; Mountain 125 p.13; Alp 44 p. 76-83; AAJ 1988 p. 52-55; RdM 96 p.12-13; CAl-RM 1988/4 p. 76; B SAT 1988/1 p. 23-26; Vertical 16 p. 72-7317.1 MARTIN-O'NEILL LINK-UP 950m, 80° 6b Al (lOOm new) Nathan Martin-Timmy O'Neill (US), 2002.

Description. This has become the preferred, "normal" route on Torre Egger. lt is not a particularly remarkable line, certainly not comparable in quality to the Spigolo dei Bimbi to Huber-Schnarflink -up.lt avoids the most beautiful and hardest section of Titanic by climbing w pitches of the De Dona- Giongo, then continuing on a three-pitch variation to join the upper two-thirds of Titanic. Fixed ropes used on the first ascent of Titanic are still in place. History. P. janschek (ZA) and M. Mayr (AT) were the first to attempt this line. Martin and O'Neill completed their ascent in a 59-hour round trip. ln 2006 Stephanie Davis 156 and Dean Potter (US) climbed up it in 23 hours. Female ascent. The ascent by Davis was the first female ascent of Torre Egger. Torre Egger SE

face.

Torre Egger

East face

145

Strategy. A competent party should be able to complete the route in two or three days, bivouacking on the snowfield half way up. Gear. Doubles to #3, one #4, TCUs, 4 ice -screws, 3 KBs, r Peeker. Descent. Rappel the route. 17.2 WINTER LINK-UP

ln August 2010 Dani Arnold, Thomas Senf and Stefan Siegrist (CH) made the first winter ascent of Torre Egger by first climbing the De Dona- Giongo line, then climbing five new pitches to join Titanic at the obvious snowfield half way up. They took three days round trip. This link-up is slightly easier than the Martin- O'Neill link-up . .-PH 156 18

DE DONA-GIONGO LINE

Bruno De Dona-Giuliano Giongo (IT) claim to have climbed this line in 3/1980. Description. This line follows a series of deep dihedrals between two pillars. ln sunny weather they are exposed to barrage of falling debris. Dan Reid, who attempted it in 1974 and had been a doctor in the Vietnam War, likened the experience to being in the Demilitarized Zone with constant falling bombs. There is an enormous amount of old fixed rope in place. History. M. Boysen, P. Braithwaite, M. Coffey, L. Dickinson, E. jones, K. Lewis and D. Whillans (GB), D. Reid and R. Sylvester (US), attempted this line in 1974, to two-thirds height. ln 1975 a large expedition from New Zealand made another attempt. This

146

Torre

East face

expedition included Philip Herron, who died in a crevasse fall near the base of the peak. In late 1976 Aldo Gross led an attempt by a team of guides from Val di Fassa, Italy. De Dona and Giongo made many attempts, including one the previous year with C. De Nardinis. They claim to have completed the route in four days. While descending in an epic storm, and attempting to find a safer way down, they also claim to have climbed Punta Herron. In 2005 Thomas Huber (DE) was the first to "repeat" the north ridge of Torre Egger, following the supposed De Dona and Giongo line. Finding no trace of passage at the col, or above, Huber christened the col between Torre Egger and Punta Herron "Col de Lux", "because we think we were

Torre Egger and Aguja Standhardt from the ESE.

Torre

East face

147

TORRE GROUP

Bibliography. De Dona: RdM 43 p. 52; Scandere 1980 p. 22- 37; AAJ 1981 p. 239; CAl- RM 1981/5-6 p. 198- 205; Berg 1984 p. 142 -157; Alp 184 p. 62-70. Reid: Mountain 37 p. n; Mountain 38 p. 30; AAJ 1975 p. 184-188. Herron: NZ Aj 1977 p. 62- 65; AAJ 1977 p. 231. Gross: AAJ 1978 p. 584.

the first humans on this col; we found no trace of the Italians here or anyplace above." The north ridge of Torre Egger is a mostly blank slab with discontinuous flakes and cracks. There is only one obvious line of weakness. ln the three mostly blank pitches Huber found no pitons, pin scars or bolts. ln that section Giongo reported placing "three bolts, as irrefutable proof of our passage". Since 2005 many parties have climbed through that section and have also failed to find any trace of passage. ln Giongo's article in Scandere there are photos taken on the climb, and also on top of a rime like formation, in the middle of a storm and with no background. Requests for clarifica156 tion have gone unanswered. 19

HUBER-SCHNARF 200m, 80° 6b+ Thomas Huber (DE)-Andi Schnarf (CH), 3/2005. Description. When linked with Spigolo dei Bimbi on

Punta Herron, approaching via the Aguja Standhardt snow ramps, this route is the fastest, easiest and most enjoyable route up Torre Egger (go om altogether). Starting with Festerville on Aguja Standhardt produces one of the best free link-ups anywhere in the massif - scenic, enjoyable and dramatic (about rosom altogether). The easiest "approach" to the base is via Spigolo dei Bimbi. From a bolt 20 meters above the Col de Lux climb discontinuous cracks and flakes for two pitches (6b+) to a belay (three in -situ pitons) directly on the crest of the ridge. From here make a so-meter horizontal traverse left, past a fixed Camalot and a bolt, to reach a second bolt. An easy ice pitch and a short rime pitch lead to the summit. A short variation to the left was climbed in 2008. History. Huber and Schnarflinked Festerville on Aguja Standhardt to Spigolo dei Bimbi on Punta Herron. They bivouacked on the Col the Lux and climbed Torre Egger the following morning. One week earlier, with Rok Zalokar (Sl), warm weather forced them to retreat from the 148, 156 Col the Lux. Strategy. Competent parties have climbed Torre Egger in one day, approaching via the Aguja Standhardt snow ramp and Spigolo dei Bimbi.

148

Torre

East face

Gear. Doubles to #I, one #2, double TCUs, stoppers, 4-6 ice-screws. Descent. Rappel Titanic. West face Approach. Piedra del Fraile to Paso Marconi to Circo De los Altares, or De Agostini to Niponino and over the Col Standhardt (N3). West face attempts 20.1 Dihedrals left of west face. In 1997 A. Cavallaro and E. Salvaterra (IT) attempted a line left of the west face, following a dihedral that leads toward the Col de Lux. Falling debris forced a retreat after 300 meters. Prior to their attempt an unknown team had climbed the initial 150 meters. In the 2010- II and 20II-I2 seasons Matteo Bernasconi and Matteo della Bordella (IT) made a number of attempts, fixing ropes on 17 pitches. On their last attempt they reached a point 20 meters below the Col de Lux, retreating when all but one of the pieces at their last belay pulled. They had climbed 23 pitches with difficulties to 7a A2, placing only two bolts. Their fixed ropes, and two aluminum ladders used for the glacial approach, were abandoned. Regarding the use of aluminum ladders to cross crevasses, della Bordella explained that it was "Himalayan style, but a sort of preview in Patagonia." Let's just hope this is not the case. Ladders might be a tool in commercial Himalayan ascents, but certainly don't belong in alpinism, more so considering that the most likely out151 come is that they will be abandoned. 20.2 West face attempt. In 1996 P. Dal Pri, L. Nadali and Andrea Sarchi (IT) attempted a line in the center of the face, climbing four pitches before retreating. 151

Top: Climbing the Huber-Schnarf, the unclimbed west ridge of Punta Herron in the background.

Incredible views while climbing the Huber-Schnarf, Cerro Rincon and Volcan Lautaro in the background.

page 151 Torre Egger and Cerro Torre from the NW.

Torre

West face

149

TORRE GROUP

PUNTA HERRON (ca. 2750m).

Punta Herron is a secondary summit of Torre Egger. On the west face it has some fantastic climbs that would be worth repeating and then continuing to the summit. They might also be good candidates for free ascents. The north ridge, Spigolo dei Bimbi, offers fantastic climbing in a great position. Bruno de Dona and Giongo Giuliano (lT) named this peak after Philip Herron, a young climber from New Zealand who died in 1976 near the base of Torre Egger. Herron fell unroped into a narrow crevasse and became tightly wedged. His partner was unable to free him and was forced to walk to base camp for help. By the time a rescue arrived the next morning, it was too late. Herron was the youngest member of a large Kiwi expedition that was attempting Torre Egger. De Dona and Giongo claim to have made the first ascent, while descending from Torre Egger in a raging storm. As mentioned earlier, in 2005 Thomas Huber (DE) expressed doubts about De Dona and Giongo's claim, explaining that he found no trace of passage at the Col de Lux, on the north face of Torre Egger or on the south side of Punta Herron. Adriano Cavallaro, Ermanno Salvaterra and Ferruccio Vidi (lT) made the first confirmed ascent in 1991. Bibliography. Herron: M) 1977 p. 231; NZ A) 1977 p. 62-65.

20 10m2 19 50m 5 Al 18 40m A2 / 17 20m 5 Al 16 40m A2

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150

Punta Herron

TORRE GROUP

21

Bibliography. CAl- RM 1981/5-6 p. 198- 205; Scandere 8o p. 22- 37; AAJ 1981 p. 239; AAJ 1981 p. 239·

CARA SUR

80m, 75o (from the Col de Lux) Bruno De Dona-Giuliano Giongo (IT), claimed, 3/1980; Thomas Huber (DE)-Andi Schnarf(CH)-Rok Zalokar (SI), 2005. Description. From the Col de Lux climb two pitches, mixed terrain to a rime mushroom. History. Huber, Schnarf and Zalokar made the first confirmed ascent, climbing from the Col de Lux after a failed attempt on Torre Egger. Descent. As for Spigolo dei Bimbi. ._ West face - Col dei Falchetti The Col dei Falchetti (col of the hawks) is a tiny saddle 300 meters below the summit, located between a small pillar and the start of the still unclimbed west ridge of Punta Herron. Both routes on the west face of Punta Herron retreat from this col. Maurizio Ciaralli and Andrea Sarchi (IT) christened the col after their nom-de-guerre, the Falchetti team. This name, which Giarolli and Sarchi coined while skiing a steep north face in the Alps with E. Salvaterra, was inspired by the film "Where Eagles Dare". Approach. Piedra del Fraile to Paso Marconi to Circo De los Altares, or De Agostini to Niponino and over the Col Standhardt (N3). 22

Bibliography. AAJ 1993 p. 185; Desnivel 82 p. 108; Alp 96 p. 20-23; High 127 p. 6; B SAT 1993/1 p. 44-45; CAl- RM 1993/5 p. 86; AAJ 1990 p. 205.

GRACIAS A LA VIDA BOOm, 6a A3

Maurizio Giarolli-Odoardo Ravizza-Andrea Sarchi (IT), ll/1992, to the Col dei Falchetti. 151, T 150 History. The first ascent party fixed 250 meters of rope, then climbed for three days to reach the Col dei Falchetti. A team from Lecco including P. Cesana, D. Chindamo, G. Crimella, Paolo Crippa, M. Maggi and G. Villa attempted it in r986. ln I989 Crippa and Maggi returned with Eliana De Zordo. After Maggi returned home, Crippa and De Zordo made one more attempt. They were later found dead at the base of the route, having apparently fallen when the knot of a belay sling came undone. Crippa was an excellent rock climber with many first ascents in the Dolomites and Bregaglia. The route is named after a song

152

Punta Herron

face

by Argentine folk singer Mercedes Sosa in remembrance of Crippa and De Zordo. There are several fixed ropes still in place. Descent. Rappel the route. 23

LA GIOCONDA BOOm, 6b A2 Mauro Giovanazzi - Ermanno Salvaterra (IT),

11/1998, to the Col dei Falchetti. Description. Named after Michelangelo's Mona Lisa, because in the words of the first ascensionists the route is "a real work of art." .-PH 151 History. Giovanazzi and Salvaterra fixed 300 meters of rope, then spent five days on the wall, using a portaledge. Bad weather forced them to aid most of the climb. Descent. Rappel the route. Bibliography. Alp 167 p.no; Climbing 185 p. 35; M) 1999 p. 335; High 203 p. 82-83. North face - Col de los Sueiios Ermanno Salvaterra was the first to climb to the Col de los Suefi.os (col of dreams) and christened it Col dei Sogni explaining: "How many times have l tried to imagine this place and how many times have l seen it in my dreams!" 24

SPIGOLO DEl BIMBI 350m, 90° 6b Adriano Cavallaro-Ermanno Salvaterra- Ferruccio Vidi (IT), 11/1991.

Description. A superb climb. The rock is of great quality, the position extremely dramatic and the climbing very enjoyable. The only problem is getting there, which is a bit of an ordeal. The technical crux is the first five meters above the Col de los Suefi.os. Higher, a number of variations are possible: if frost covers the north side of the ridge one can move to the east side. No protection bolts were placed during the first ascent but Thomas Huber added one in 2005. The fastest way to access the Col de los Suefi.os is to climb the ramp that slashes across the east face of Aguja Standhardt, then traverse partway across its south face and make two-three rappels into

Punta Herron ._ North face

153

TORRE GROUP

Bibliography. Desnivel 73 p. 79; Desnivel 74 p. 91- 93; Lo Scarpone 1992/18 p. 19; Alp 92 p. 27; GHM 1992 p. 17; High 122 p. w; AAJ 1993 p. 186; CAl- RM 1992/5 p. 81.

Tobogan. From there, two easy pitches (70°) lead to the col. You can also reach the col by climbing any route to the summit of Aguja Standhardt and then rappelling the south face. Five or six rappels gain a point 30 meters 147, 156 below the col. History. Cavallaro, Salvaterra and Vidi climbed Aguja Standhardt via Exocet and rappelled to the Col de los Suenos. They climbed alpine style and bivouacked three times during the ascent. The name Spigolo dei Bimbi (arete of the children) remembers seven young children that died in a snow and rock avalanche while hiking to the Brentei hut, in Italy's Brenta massif. Gear. Doubles to #I, one each to #3, double TCUs, stoppers, 5-7 ice-screws, I- 2 snow-pickets. Descent. Rappel the route to the col (one bolt and a piton at each belay), then make four rappels down Tobogan and two more directly onto the hanging glacier. Walk across the hanging glacier toward Torre Egger and rappel the De Dona- Giongo line to the ground. It is also possible to rappel skier's left of the hanging glacier, directly under the serac, or to descend all ofTobogan. This last option is the safest but involves several traverses. East face Approach. De Agostini to Niponino to Noruegos to Glaciar Torre Superior (Nz). 25

Alessandro Beltrami and Erman no Salvaterra nearing the summit of Punta Herron.

TOBOGAN 600m, 70° 6a Al M6 Rolando Garibotti (AR)-Silvo Karo (SI), 1999, to the

Col de los Sueiios. 147, 156 Description. This climb is not as easy as it appears. The lower part has several sections that required aid. The climbing is not particularly appealing, involving mostly alpine groveling. History. P. Chaverri (ES) and E. Salvaterra (IT) attempted it in I994, retreating after 300 meters when Chaverri was hit by a falling rock. Garibotti and Karo climbed to the col in one day. The name was prompted by the Spigolo dei Bimbi - a "tobogan (slide)" below the "arete of the children".

154

Punta Herron

East face

Gear. Doubles to #2, one #3, TCUs, stoppers, 5-7 pitons, 4-6 ice-screws. Descent. As for Spigolo dei Bimbi. Bibliography. Chaverri: Desnivel 93 p. 92; High I42 p. 39; Mj I994 p. r8r. AGUJA STANDHARDT (ca. 2700 m). Aguja Standhardt is best known for Exocet, an extremely popular ice climb. Others that deserve attention are Festerville, a phenomenal rock climb in a great position, and the Tomahawk- Exocet link- up, which is one of the most sustained ice climbs in the massif. The peak was named after German photographer Ernst Standhardt (r888-r968). Standhardt arrived in Patagonia in the '30s and remained there until his death. He traveled across Patagonia in a Ford T truck, making a living as a photographer, and in the back of the truck built a topper that served as his darkroom and home. During a period of unusually low water he drove this small truck across the Rio de las Vueltas, then across the Rio Fitz Roy, and again across the Rio de Las Vueltas, to reach Estancia Madsen. He remained there as Andreas Madsen's foreman and died after Madsen and his family had already left the area. In keeping with the precision that characterized his life, he died the same day he was born. In I977 Brian Hall and john Whittle (GB) missed the summit by a mere 20 meters but it wasn't until r988 that the peak was finally climbed, by jim Bridwell, Greg Smith and jay Smith (US) via Exocet.

The steep and difficult ice chimney of Exocet.

._ East face Approach. De Agostini to Niponino then toward the Col Standhardt (N3) or via Noruegos and Glaciar Torre Superior (N2). 26

EXOCET

SOOm, WIS+ 5+ Jim Bridweii-Greg Smith- Jay Smith (US), 1/1988.

page 156 ._ Torre Egger and Aguja Standhardt from the NE.

147, 156, T 157

Description. The crux chimney, a four-pitch vertical waterfall, is superb, as is the rest of the route.

Aguja Standhardt

East face

155

35m 90 " 112 lOOm 60 " Ill 45m 4+ 110 SOm WIS 19

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TORRE GROUP

Bibliography. Bridwell: AAJ 1989 p. 57- 6s; Desnivel 45 p. 44-51; Ve rtical 32 p. 38; R+l 32 p. 18- 27; Lo Scarpone 1990/4 p. 6-7; Bridwell j. (1992) Climbing Adventures, ICS Books, Merrillvill e-IN, USA (p. 151-159). Bonapace: AAJ 1992 p. 90- 94; Gipfelsturmer 1996 p.14·21.

The line of the Tomahawk to Exocet link-up, one of the best and most sustained ice climbs in the area.

History. Sebastian de la Cruz (AR) and Peter Li.ithi (CH) discovered this line and were the first to attempt it. The route is named after the French-made missiles that the Argentine Air Force used against the British Navy during the unfortunate and senseless I982 Malvinas/Falklands war and refers to Hall and Whittle's I977 near miss (see El Caracol). Winter ascent. Tommy Bona pace- Toni Ponholzer (AT) 9/Iggo, others since. Solo ascent. Colin Haley (US), nj20ro. ln I994 Bonapace had soloed to the end of the crux chimney. Strategy. A competent party should be able to climb this route in one day from Niponino or Noruegos. Be sure to arrive at the base of the chimney early, before it gets sun and starts running with water. Gear. Twelve ice-screws, one each to #I, 2 or 3 TCUs, stoppers, I- 2 snow-pickets. Descent. Rappel the route to the base of the chimney, then skier's left into an obvious corner, following the line climbed by Scud. 26.1 SCUD 200m, W14 6b+ Cl Mark Synnott (US)- Kevin Thaw (GB), 1998, to Exocet . ., PH 156, T 157 Description. This is a harder alternate start to Exocet. lt has yet to be climbed to the summit. History. ln I987, when the peak was still unclimbed, Xavi Ansa and Txema Egizabal (ES) climbed this line and then continued onto the south face, reaching a point ISO meters from the summit. Even though they did not climb any new terrain, Synnot and Thaw get first ascent credit because their ascent joined a pre-existing line, while when the Basque climbed the line the peak was still unclimbed. Proper first ascent credit will go to whoever links it with Exocet to the summit. Although the name Exocet had a meaning beyond the missile theme for the first ascensionists, the subject stuck. Scud is a type of Soviet missile. Gear. Doubles to #I, one each to #4, TCUs, stoppers, ice-screws. Descent. As for Exocet. Bibliography. Ansa: Desnivel36 p. 4- ro.

158

Aguja 5tandhardt., East face

27 Chimenea Este attempts ln I97S john Bragg and jim Donini (US), Ben Campbell- Kelly and Brian Wyvill (GB), attempted this line, retreating so meters below the north ridge. They encountered rotten ice and loose rock (basalt). Two years later Brian Hall and john Whittle (GB) made another attempt but retreated after a big fall. 147, 156 28

TOMAHAWK 450m, W16 5 C1

Conrad Anker-Steve Gerberding, (US), 12/1994, to Exocet. Description. When linked with Exocet, this produces one of the most sustained ice climbs in the area (8oom altogether). 156, T 157 History. The route name follows the missile theme set by Exocet, and refers to American made missiles. Integral ascent. Laurence Monnoyeur-Bruno Sourzac (FR), I997, via Exocet, first female ascent of the peak. Winter ascent. Martin Bointeau - Claude Gagnon (CA), 2002, to Exocet. Strategy. The crux of the link-up with Exocet is to reach the upper chimney before it gets the sun and starts running with water. To avoid this problem Monnoyeur and Sourzac bivouacked at the base of the upper chimney. Gear. 12 ice-screws, one each to #2, 2 or 3 TCUs, stoppers. Descent. As for Exocet. 29

Bibliography. Mountain 42 p. n; AAJ 1976 p. 503·504.

EXTREME EMOTIONS

450m, 85° 6c A1 M6+ Stephen Koch (US)- Marko Prezelj (SI), 2/2006. Description. Climb steep cracks on the rock buttress just left of Tomahawk. After eight pitches rappel IS meters into a deep chimney that involves much ice and mixed climbing. Once on the snow ramps head up and right to join Exocet and follow this to the summit (8oom altogether). 156 History. The first ascent party bivouacked once, on the snow ramps. Gear. Doubles to #I, one each to #3, TCUs, stoppers, I2 ice-screws, 3-s pitons. Descent. As for Exocet.

Aguja Stand hardt

Ea st face

159

Bibliography. Anker: High 152 p. 15; GHM 1994-95 p. n; Vertical 78 p. 49· Monnoyeur: AAJ 1998 p. 282- 284; Vertical 108 p. 46- 54·

TORRE GROUP

Bibliography. AAJ 1994 p. 178 -183; Desnivel 93 p. 12-13, p.92; Desnivel 96 p. 54-6o; High 142 p.38-39.

Erman no Salvaterra on the first pitch of Otra Vez, Col Standhardt in the background.

30 Chaverri- Plaza attempt In 1993 Pepe Chaverri (ES) and Teo Plaza (AR) made several alpine style attempts on this line, some with Lorenzo Ortiz. On their last attempt, without Ortiz, Plaza suffered a broken femur when he was hit by falling ice less than roo meters below the summit. The two spent a long day and night rappelling, and finally, with help from Ermanno Salvaterra, Plaza reached safety. Sadly, he died in an avalanche near Bariloche less than a year later. Ortiz died near the summit of K2 in 1995 and Chaverri died in the Grandes jorasses in 2000. The attempted line was named Motivaciones Mixtas. It has 8oo meters of climbing with difficulties of 8oo 6b A2 M. The cracks on the central pillar look incredible. 147, 156, T 161 31

POTTER-DAVIS 200m, 85° 6b C2 Stephanie Davis-Dean Potter (US), 2006.

Description. Climb Exocet to the base of the chimney, then continue up the snow ramp and climb six pitches on the headwall immediately left of the chimney (so om altogether). Some of the pitches might be common with the 147, 156 line attempted in 1993 by Chaverri and Plaza. Gear. Doubles to #3, double TCUs, stoppers, RPs, 3-4 ice-screws. Descent. The first ascensionists rappelled the headwall via their line of ascent and then continued down Exocet. 32

Bibliography. Hall: AAJ 1978 p. 581 - 583; Alp inismus 1978/8 p. 19 - 21; Mou ntain 55 p. n; Crags 11 p. 24 - 27.

EL CARACOL 250m, 85° 6a A1 Jorge Ackermann (AR)-Colin Haley (US), 12/2011.

Description. Climb to the base of the Exocet chimney and continue left to the end of the obvious snow ramp. Go around the corner onto the south face, where mixed ground up and left leads to the base of a big dihedral. Climb down and left to an obvious crack (aid), which leads to a second corner system further left (the first ascent party climbed too high in this section and was forced to make a rappel). Easier climbing leads to a steep chimney, which provides the crux and involves nailing a knife-blade

160

Aguja Stan d hardt

East face

crack on its right wall. Altogether the climb involves 500 meters of vertical gain. 147, 156, 162 History. In 1977 Brian Hall and john Whittle (GB) climbed this line to reach the base of the final mushroom, 20 meters below the summit. In the following decades many parties attempted to complete their line. The route's name, the snail, refers to the spiral nature of the climb but also to the snail-like pace of the first ascensionists on the tricky upper pitches. Gear. Doubles to #2, one #3, double TCUs, stoppers, 5 ice-screws, 7-ro pitons, r- 2 snow- pickets. Descent. As for Exocet. 12 1ssm so ·

West face Approach. De Agostini to Niponino to Col Standhardt (N3).

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Description. From the Col Standhardt downclimb 20 meters to the west and then climb an arching crack to the right (6om, 5+), before making a 45-meter rappel onto an obvious 163, T 163 ramp. History. The first ascent was completed with two bivouacs. During a 2007 repeat Salvaterra climbed several variations (see photodiagram). The name, "yet again", refers to the Patagonian weather playing with the first ascensionists. M. Moos berger

1 1SSm 6a

Aguja Standhardt

161

TORRE GROUP

Bibliography. Giarolli : AAJ 1990 p. 210; Lo Scarpone 1990/ 4 p. 7; Alp 58 p. 19; Alp 62 p. 21-22; B SAT 1990/2 p. 46-48; CAt- RM 1990/4 p. 68-69. Mooseberger: Mountain 114 p. n; AAJ 1985 p. 241.

and T. Wuschner (CH) had attempted this line in 1984, retreating 200 meters from the summit. Descent. As for Exocet.

Climbing along the fantastic Festerville, Aguja Bffida in the

Aguja Standhardt south face.

162

Aguja Standhardt

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TORRE GROUP 80m 90" \

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FESTERVILLE

400m, 90° 6c Nathan Martin- Timmy O'Neill

(US), 2/2000. Description. This is a great rock route in an impressive setting. There is no gear in place. Climb the first pitch of Otra Vez and then continue directly up steep cracks. After a rappel followed by a somewhat difficult pitch it joins Exocet three pitches below the summit (so om altogether). The first ascent party took r2 hours to climb from the col to the summit, with repeats taking as little as nine hours. 156, T 164 History. In rgg8 C. Beaudoin (FR) and A. Parkin (GB) attempted a line just to the left, climbing three pitches with difficulties to A3. The name of the route refers to the scene at basecamp, fester-ville . Gear. Doubles to #4, one and a half set TCUs, stoppers, 4-5 ice-crews, r- 2 snow- pickets. Descent. As for Exocet. Bibliography. Martin: Climbing I95 p. 24. Parkin: High rg2 p. rg.

115

10 5+

9 5

8 6a+

7 5

6 5

5 6b

PUNTA SHANTI

4 6c

Punta Shanti is a buttress on Aguja Standhardt's west face . The first ascensionists named it after Chantal Maudit, a well- known French climber who died while attempting Dhaulagiri in rgg8. "Shanti" was Chantal's nickname.

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164

Punta Shanti

Approach. Piedra del Fraile to Paso Marconi to Circa De los Altares, or De Agostini to Niponino and over the Col Standhardt (N3). 35

14 120m A2

LEONARDO DAVINCI 600m, 6b A2+ David AuthemanAntoine Noury (FR),

l3 115m A1

I I I

12/1998. ll l25mA2

165, T 165

History. The route was climbed using fixed ropes. The name refers to nearby La Gioconda, a route on Punta Herron. Gear. Doubles to #3, one each to #6, double or triple TCUs, stoppers, RPs, 7 S/M angles, 7 L angles, ro LAs, 10 KBs, 2 Peekers, hooks. Descent. Rappel the route (bolted belays). Bibliography. Vertical n6 p. 44-48; AeR 213 p. 12; AA) 1999 p. 336; High 203 p. 83.

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TORRE GROUP

PUNTA PERFIL DE INDIO (ca. 2270m). Punta Perfil de Indio is a small bump between Aguja Standhardt and Aguja Bifida. Tommy Bonapace and Toni Ponholzer (AT) completed the first ascent in 1990, naming it at that time. After reaching the col between Punta Perfil de Indio and Aguja Bifida (400m, 55° 5), they climbed IOO meters of rock to 6a. 91 Bibliography. MJ 1992 p. 90- 94; Gipfelstiirmer 1996 p. 14-21. AGUJA BiFIDA (ca. 24oom). Aguja Bifida sees little traffic. Although rock quality on its east face isn't great, the west face surely deserves attention. The name means divided into two parts, an accurate description of its appearance. Lliboutry christened it in 1952. Paul von Kanel and Hans Peter Trachsel (CH) made the first ascent of the south (lower) summit in 1975. Horacio Bresba (AR) and Peter Luthi (CH) made the first ascent of the north summit in 1989. _. North summit - East and north face Approach. De Agostini to Niponino, and then north up the Glaciar Torre. Descent. Rappel directly down the north face from the summit (18 rappels approx). LUTHI- BRESBA 700m, 50° 6b C1 Horacio Bresba (AR)-Peter Luthi (CH), 3/1989. Description. Eight mixed pitches lead to a big dihedral. Climb it in four pitches via cracks on the right wall. A traverse left onto the north face leads to the rightmost of two obvious chimneys. Climb this in eight pitches to the ridge. Two more pitches lead to the summit. At times the rock is mediocre. 167, 168 History. This was the first ascent of the peak and the pair climbed the route in a day, bivouacking on the descent. E. Brenner and P. Friedrich had attempted this line in 1986, retreating IOO meters from the summit. Gear. Doubles to #3, one #4, one and a half set TCUs, stoppers, RPs, 2-3 ice -screws. 1

Bibliography. AAJ 1990 p. 206; CAB- Revista 1989/21 p. 32- 34·

page 167 Aguja Bffida east

face.

166

Aguja Bffida

TORRE GROUP

ESPOLON NORESTE 350m, 6b C1 Paula Alegre (AR)-Oriol Bar6 (ES), 12/2011. Bibliography. Ferrari: AAJ 1993 p. 184; Alp 84 p. 23; CAl- RM 1992/5

p. 81.

Description. Climbs the lower part of the NE buttress to join the Bonapace- Dunser and the Luthi- Bresba (7oom 167, 168 altogether). History. C. Ferrari, M. Panzeri and C. Valsecchi (IT) had attempted this line in r992, climbing 6oo meters before retreating. They tried to finish direct, instead of traversing right into the Luthi- Bresba. In rg89 M. Giordani, M. Mabboni and R. Manfrini (IT) climbed nine pitches immediately left. Alegre and Ban) completed the climb in a single day, fixing one pitch the previous evening.

Aguja Bffida lower north face.

168

Aguja Bffida

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15 A1 6a

Gear. Doubles to #3, one each to #5,

TCUs, stoppers. 3

14 1A2

BONAPJ!C E- DUNSER SOOm, 6b A2 Tommy Bonapace-Gerold Di.inser (AT), 1/1992. 12 l 6bA3

167, 168

Description. Above an obvious break the first ascensionists found a heavily iced off-width, so they traversed right along the break onto the north face , joining the Luthi- Bresba. Twenty-five pitches altogether (75om). History. The first ascent was completed in alpine style with one bivy. Gear. Doubles to #3, one #4, one and a half set TCUs, stoppers, 4-6 pitons. Bibliography. MJ 1993 p. 184-185; Gipfelstiirmer 1996 p. 14-21. North summit- West face. Approach. Piedra del Fraile to Paso

Marconi to Circo De los Altares, or De Agostini to Niponino and over the Col Standhardt (N3).

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HIELO Y FUEGO SSOm, 6b A3 Paolo Cavagnetto-Roberto Giovanetto-Manlio MottoGianni Predan-Cesare Ravaschietto (IT), 12/1996. Description. This is a striking line

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4 16a+ A2

on exceptional rock. The belays are bolted and six pitons were left in place. The last two pitches are common with the Liithi- Bresba. History. The first ascensionists experienced extremely cold and extremely warm weather during the ascent,

Aguja Bffida

169

3[6a+ A1

2 [6a+A1

1 16a

TORRE GROUP

hence the name: fire and ice. The route was climbed with fixed ropes over four days. 172, T 169 Gear. Doubles to # 5, double TCUs, many stoppers, RPs, pitons. Descent. Rappel the route. Bibliography. RdM I99 p. r2-r3; High r76 p. 74-76; Pareti 3 p. r9 - 20; Alp 46 p. 96; Desnivel I30 p. no. South summit - South ridge Approach. De Agostini to Niponino, then north up the Glaciar Torre. The approach to the Bifida- Perfil de Indio col involves 400 meters of snow and ice up to 55°, as well as a couple of rock pitches (5). 5

FILO SUR

300m, 6a A2 (from the col) Paul von Kanei -Hans Peter Trachsel (CH), 1/1975. Description. From the Bifida- Perfil de Indio col climb cracks west of the ridge (five pitches, 6a), then traverse right to the east flank. Climb a tricky off-width that requires some aid and then five more free pitches to the summit. 167, 170, 172 History. The route was climbed alpine style with one bivy. Gear. Doubles to #3, one #4, stoppers, 2-3 ice-screws, 4 - 6 pitons. Descent. Rappel the route. Bibliography. AAJ I976 p. 504; Mountain 42 p. II- r2. 6

Bibliography. AAJ 1992 p. 90 - 94; Gipfelsturmer 1996 p. 14-21.

CHEOMA 200m, 6a A1 Tommy Bonapace- Toni Ponholzer (AT), 12/1990. Description. Climbs the right wall of the lower south ridge. From the Bifida- Perfil de Indio col move down right and then climb several moderate pitches to a big, ear-shaped, off -width crack. This leads to the top five pitches ofFilo Sur (350m altogether). 167,170 History. "Cheoma" is Ponholzer's nickname. Bonapace named the route without Ponholzer's consent. Gear. Doubles to #3, one #4, stoppers, 4-6 pitons. Descent. Rappel the route.

170

Aguja Bffida

South summit - East face Approach. De Agostini to Niponino, then north up the Glaciar Torre. 7

COGAN lOOm, 6a 40° Paul Bruckner-Georg Shorghofer (AT), 2/1993,

to Filo Sur, roo meters from the top. 167, 170, T 171 History. The first ascent was completed in alpine style over three days. The route is named after the "bad" knight - the Kurgan - in the movie Highlander. Integral ascent. ln zoo8 Crystal Davis-Robbins (US) and Nico Gutierrez (CL) repeated the route, making a number of variations and continuing on to the top via the Filo Sur (3oom altogether). They climbed the route in a single day, rappelling through the night, and found difficulties to 6c and Cl. Gear. Doubles to #3, one #4, TCUs, stoppers. Descent. Rappel the route. Bring a lot of cord. Bibliography. A) 1994 p. 281; High 131 p. 17; Desnivel 86 p. 99·

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PUNTA FILIP

t

Punta Filip is a small secondary summit of Aguja Bifida. lt was named by the first ascensionists after )anez )egliC's son, who was born subsequent to his father's death in 1997 on Nuptse. )eglic visited Patagonia many times and climbed a number of difficult new routes in the area.

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AMIGOS PERDIDO$ SOOm, 50° 6b+ Rolando Garibotti (AR)-Silvo Karo (SI), 11/1999.

Description. Five mixed pitches lead to five pitches in cracks and dihedrals (6b). Above, follow easy ground to a small saddle east of the summit block. From here, climb the summit block by lowering 15 meters to the north, then making a tension traverse west to reach a north-facing slab. Climb the slab (run-out), to reach a cam placement 167 and the summit.

172

Punta Filip

History. The name of the route is a tribute to Aischan Rupp and )anez )eglic, two close friends who died in the mountains during I997· lt is also a play on words; the first ascensionists mistakenly left two "Friends" (camming units) on the route. Approach. De Agostini to Niponino, then north up the Glaciar Torre. Gear. Doubles to #2, one # 3, some TCUs, stoppers. Descent. Rappel the route. ._ West face Approach. Piedra del Fraile to Paso Marconi to Circo De los Altares, or De Agostini to Niponino and over the Col Standhardt (N3). 9

SU PATAGUNIA lOOm, 6c A2 Paolo Cavagnetto-Roberto Giovanetto-Manlio Motto-Gianni Predan -Cesare Ravaschietto (IT), 12/1996, to the base of the summit block. History. Wind sculpted rock on the route reminded the first ascensionists of rock formations in Sardinia, so they named the route in Sardinian dialect - "Su Patagunia" (the Patagonia). After fixing 200 meters of rope, they com172, T 173 pleted the route with one bivy. Gear. Doubles to # 3, one each to #5, TCUs, stoppers, 4- 6 pitons. Descent. Rappel the route (bolted anchors in place). Bibliography. RdM I99 p. I2-I3; High I76 p. 74 - 76; Pareti 3 p. rg - 20; Alp r46 p. 96; Desnivel r30 p. no. AGUJAS PACHAMAMA, ATCHACHILA AND INTI These are three obvious towers between Punta Filip and Cuatro Dedos. Tommy Bonapace and Gerold Diinser (AT) made their first ascents in r992, naming all of them at the time .

._ East face Approach. De Agostini to Niponino, then north up the Glaciar Torre.

Agujas Pachamama, Atchachila & Inti

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Bibliography. AAJ 1993 p. 184-185; Gipfelsturmer 1996 p. 14- 21; High 131 p. 17.

10

TRAVESfA TRIOLOGfA INCA SOOm, 6b A1 Tommy Bonapace-Gerold Dunser (AT), 3/1992.

Description. Twenty-one pitches, including one pendu174 lum. History. The party completed the ascent in a r6 -hour round trip. Gear. Doubles to #2, one each to #4, TCUs, stoppers, 4-6 pitons. Descent. Descend to the col south of Pachamama and then rappel directly to the glacier. 10.1 MONNOYEUR-SOURZAC Laurence Monnoyeur-Bruno Sourzac (France), 1999.

Six pitches lead to the col just south of the summit. The pair found several old fixed ropes. lt is unclear who had attempted or climbed this line previously. 174

174

Agujas Pachamama, Atchachila & Inti

10.2 CORTiSIMA Tomaz jakofcic-Grega Lacen (51), 2010, to the ridge. 174 AGUJA CUATRO DEDOS (ca. 22oom). Lliboutry named this after its appearance - Four Fingers. Rab Carrington and Alan Rouse (GB) completed the first ascent in 1977. East face Approach. De Agostini to Niponino, then north up the Glaciar Torre. 11

FILO NORTE 300m, sso 6a Rab Carrington-Alan Rouse (GB), 1/1977. Description. From the Cuatro Dedos-CAT col climb 175 seven pitches along the crest. Descent. The first ascensionists rappelled the NE face, because the ridge was too exposed to wind. ln good weather rappelling the route is the faster alternative. Bibliography. Mountain 58 p. 18-21; AAJ 1978 p. 581-583; Climbing 47 p. 5-11. 12

CARA ESTE 450m, sso 6a AO Tommy Bona pace- Toni Ponholzer (AT), 9/1990. Gear. Doubles to #2, one #3, TCUs, stoppers, 174 2 ice-screws, 3-5 pitons. Descent. Rappel the route. Bibliography. AA) 1992 p. go- 94; Gipfelsturmer 1996 p. 14-21. 12.1 TRAVESiA TRES DEDOS 450m, 6b Tommy Bonapace-Toni Ponholzer (AT), 12/1990. Description. Climbs the three fingers from south to north. 174 Gear. Doubles to #2, one #3, TCUs, stoppers, 2 ice-screws, 4-6 pitons. Descent. From the last col rappel the east face.

Aguja Cuatro Dedas

southeast.

175

TORRE GROUP

the route, the seconds following on jumars. Gear. Doubles to #3, double TCUs, stoppers, RPs. Descent. Rappel the route. AGUJA CAT (ca. 2250m). A Club Andino Tucuman expedition named this tower in the mid 1960s. Tucuman is a province in northern Argentina. Tommy Bonapace and Christian Zenz (AT) made the first ascent in 2001. ._ East face Approach. De Agostini to Niponino, then north up the Glaciar Torre. MATE HUMO 350m, 6a Cl Tommy Bonapace-Christian Zenz (AT), 3/2001. 174, 176 Description. Climbs the east face in II pitches, six of which required aid. The first ascensionists bivouacked at the top of the eighth pitch. Gear. Doubles to #4, one #5, triple #2, TCUs, Stoppers. Descent. Rappel the route. 14

Bibliography. AAJ 1992 p. 90 - 94; Gipfelstiirmer 1996 p. 14-21.

13

FINGERLICIOUS SOOm, 6c M4 Chris Brazeau -jon Walsh (CA)Crystal Davis-Robbins (US), 175 1/2007. Description. The climb involves many finger cracks, mixed with sections of face climbing and cryptic route finding. lt is relatively sustained. Two initial mixed pitches lead to II pitches on clean rock. History. The first ascent party on-sighted

176

Aguja CAT

PIERGIORGIO & POLLONE GROUP

CERRO DOMO BLANCO

(ca. zsoom). This peak has several, worthwhile, classic mountaineering lines, as well as two interesting rock faces. Despite this, it has received little attention and only three ascents to date. Alain Cazaux, jean Guthmann, jean Vincent Pillet, Carlos Stegmann, Gerardo Watzl (AR) named it after their first ascent in 1952 . ., West and north face Approach. Piedra del Fraile to Glaciar Marconi Sur. 1

FILO NORTE Alain Cazaux-jean Guthmannjean Vincent Pillet-Carlos Stegmann-Gerardo Watzl (AR), 1/1952.

Description. Climb to the base of Piergiorgio's west face and traverse an obvious ramp leading to the north ridge (so o 3). 180 History. This was the first ascent of the peak. The first ascensionists were part of a large expedition that made the first east to west lee Cap crossing. Descent. The first ascensionists descended the west ridge, making one rappel to reach the Portezuelo El Cuadrado (Domo Blanco-Rincon col), so making a traverse of the peak. They then headed north to the Glaciar Marconi. Bibliography. CAB -Anuario 1953 p. 12 - 14. Cerro Domo Blanco east face.

178

Cerro Domo Blanco

2

to the top of the wall. 180, T 179 Description. Involves mostly finger to hand cracks. The first ascent party aided a few icy sections but reckon the route could be freeclimbed in drier conditions. History. The route's name is a combination of jor-el, Superman's father, ("because we were nearly forced to kneel before Zod") and jurel, a brand of canned fish that formed the subsistence diet of the first ascensionists. Approach. The final part of the approach involves a steep (45°), heavily crevassed glacier. Gear. Doubles to #3, one #4, TCUs, stoppers, RPs. Descent. The first ascensionists rappelled to the west of their line of ascent. 2.1 Monnoyeur-Sourzac attempt 180 L. Monnoyeur and B. Sourzac (FR), I999, (rsom, Az 6a) .

., East face Approach. De Agostini to Niponino, then north up the Glaciar Torre. 3

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SON OF JUREL 600m, 50° 6c Cl Jonathan Copp-Dylan Taylor (US), 1/2002,

FILO SUR 1000m, 65° 5+ Tommy Bonapace-Gerold Dunser- Toni Ponholzer (AT), 6/1993. 174, 178

Description. This is a serious route, neither as easy nor benign as it appears. Climb a steep couloir (55°) to the col between Cerro Domo Blanco and Aguja CAT, then climb ice (65°), followed by three pitches of very rotten rock, to easy snow and the summit. The seracs that threaten the upper half of the route are currently inactive. Gear. One each to #I , 6 pitons, stoppers, 6 ice-screws. Descent. The first ascensionists descended the route, making several rappels from Abalakovs and a couple in the rock section, where poor quality granite made establishing safe anchors difficult. Bibliography. Gipfelsturmer rgg6 p. zr; MJ I994 p. r8r, p. I84.

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179

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PIERGIORGIO & POLLONE GROUP

4

LA SUERTE SANGRIENTA 650m, 7a Cl M4 Chris Brazeau -jon Walsh (CA), Crystal Davis- Robbins (US), 1/2007.

Description. The first challenge is finding a way through the maze of crevasses to reach the base. The next is the approach gully: it is exposed to stone fall, so try to climb it before it is hit by the sun. Above, a few easy pitches lead to a steep headwall and three difficult pitches up perfect cracks. The most notable features include a corner with a 30-meter overhanging finger crack and a short section of sideways off-width climbing, all on superb granite. These two pitches required a few moves of aid but would likely go free at 7b. A few more rock pitches, followed by an ice face, lead to the summit. 178 History. The name refers to incidents during the ap proach, where Davis -Robbins was twice hit by stone fall; once on the forehead and the second time in the center of her helmet, which broke in two. Beware! Gear. Doubles to #3, one #4, TCUs, stoppers, 2 ice -screws. Descent. The first ascensionists rappelled to the north of their ascent route. CERRO PIERGIORGIO (ca. 27oom).

Cerro Piergiogio is a fin-like granite monolith, with a west to NW face that was described by the renowned Swiss alpinist Michel Piola as the perfect wall ("Ia paroie parfaite").lt is a steep and immaculate 8oo-meter rock face that will likely become a coveted objective in years to come, once the communal level of skill rises to allow alpine style ascents. The route Greenpeace should be a classic but for some reason it still awaits a third ascent. The approach to the base of the NW face is shorter than the approach to the popular west face of Aguja Saint-Exupery or the south face of Aguja Desmochada. De Agostini named this peak in 1935 after a young man from Torino, Piergiorgio Frassati (190I-I925). According to church lore, Frassati was a virtuous young man, who loved the mountains and practiced alpinism as a way to fortify the spirit and become closer to God. Church

180

Cerro Piergiorgio

literature describes an exemplary life of compassion, mercy and charity. He was beatified in 1990. De Agostini sprayed the scenery with religious toponyms that have little to do with Patagonia, or the people that inhabited it for over IO,ooo years. Other early explorers such as Kolliker or Lliboutry were far more sensitive. .. East face Approach. Piedra del Fraile to Paso del Cuadrado to Glaciar Fitz Roy Norte (P3), or De Agostini to Niponino to Boquete del Piergiorgio (Ng). 1

CARA ESTE

350m, 70° 5 Cl M7 jorge and Pedro Skvarca (AR), 1/1963, to the base of the summit mushroom. ,. PH 181 Description. The crux of the route is an obvious three-pitch corner. The first pitch involves freeclimb ing with good gear (5), fun and not too hard. The second

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181

page 180 -c Cerros Domo Blanco and Rincon from the north. Cerro Piergiorgio east face .

PIERGIORGIO & POLLONE GROUP

Bibliography. Skvari'a: CAB- Anuario 1963 p. 63 -70; La Montana 1964/5 p. 27-30, p. 39· Comesana: AAJ 1962 p. 266, CAB-Anuario 1963 p. 62-63. Malgarotte: La Scarpone 1988/s p. 6 -7; AAJ 1989 p. 176; RdM 96 p. 13; Desn ive l 36 p. 17.

pitch requires aid climbing (Cl) two thin cracks. The third pitch- a mixed chimney- is the crux (M7). Three more easy pitches lead to the summit ridge, the first traversing horizontally left (6om), and the second and third more up and right (70° 4). It is also possible to climb right, via ice smears, to other summits on the ridge further north. There are several abandoned fixed ropes. History. The first ascent was completed in three days. The Skvarca brothers were part of a large expedition, which included M. Castellazzo, E. Monelos, S. Pasic and C. Porta. During their ascent they used fixed ropes left in places by previous expeditions, most notably by C. Comesaii.a and j. Insua, who in 1962 had reached a point rso meters below the summit. At least four other expeditions had attempted this route, in the 1959, 1960- 6r and 1961-62 seasons. The Skvarca brothers made many first ascents in the southern Andes, including Cerros Norte, Bertrand, Kennedy, Moyano, Crista!, Campana, Cono, Roma, Bolados, Lautaro, Gorra Blanca, Cagliero, etc. Alpine style. jon Griffith -Will Sim (GB) 20ro, climbing a lower summit further north. In 1987 M. Malgarotto, A. Rampini and M. Venzo (IT) attempted the obvious snow cone to the south, retreating on reaching the ridge. Strategy. The climb can be completed easily in a day. Gear. Doubles to #2, one #3, stoppers, 6 ice-screws. Descent. Rappel the route. West and northwest face Approach. Piedra del Fraile to Glaciar Marconi Sur. Note that this approach is not any longer than that to such classics as Chiaro di Luna on Aguja Saint- Exupery. 2

ALL YOU NEED IS LOVE 600m, 5+A3 David Autheman-Michel Bordet (FR), 11/1999, to the summit ridge. ,. PH 187

Description. The route has two distinct sections, a compact slab that required far too much drilling (bat-hooks, rivets and bolts for five pitches) and a distinct dihedral higher up.

182

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History. The first ascent party fixed 500 meters of rope. The name refers to a well- known Beatles song. Gear. Big wall rack. Descent. Rappel the route. Bibliography. Vertical Roc 5/2ooo, p. 14 -16. 3

Bibliography. Alp 10 p. 15; Alp 12 p. 16; RdM 78 p. 32-37·

GREENPEACE BOOm, 50° 6b AO Mario M1mica-Renzo Vettori (IT), 11/1985.

Description. The first half is phenomenal, the upper half not so, with wet chimneys and questionable rock. There are some abandoned fixed ropes on the initial pitches, the rest is clean. 187, T 183 History. The first ascent party fixed their four climbing ropes, then completed the ascent in four days round trip, bivouacking twice on the way up and once during the descent. Vettori freeclimbed most of the route with the exception of one pendulum and a few moves of Ao. They named the buttress climbed by the route as "Pilastro dei Trentini" and the gendarme on the summit ridge "Pilastro Fava", in honor of Cesarino Fava, who was responsible for showing Manica and Vettori this objective. M. Ballerini and A. Valtolina had attempted this line in 1984. One month after the first ascent V. Banderet and P. Maillefer (CH) repeated the route alpine style, taking three days round trip, freeclimbing several sections that they thought were around 7a. Strategy. Decent bivy ledges on top pitches 9 and 14. Gear. Doubles to #3, one #4, double TCUs, stoppers, 2 ice -screws. Descent. Rappel the route. 4

VfA DEL HERMANO 850m, 6b+ A3 Herve Barmasse-Christian Brenna (IT), 2/2008, to

the summit ridge. Description. The first soo meters involve difficult aid connecting discontinuous features. Forty holes were drilled in all, one at each belay, six protection bolts and a good number of bat-hooks. All fixed ropes used were left 187, T 185 in place.

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History. The route was completed with help from M. Conti and G. Ongaro. During the previous season the first ascensionists had placed 400 meters of fixed rope but some of these were so frayed, they had tore-climb several pitches. In all, they fixed 500 meters of rope to the base of an obvious chimney r8 pitches up. Barmasse and Brenna set off at 2 a.m. and reached the summit ridge 24 hours later. The route was named in honor of the late Agostino Rocca, whose brother was the expedition's sponsor. Rocca was one of Argentina's richest men and died in an aviation accident together with well- known Argentine alpinist Jose Luis Fonrouge. The route loosely follows a line attempted many times by Casimiro Ferrari and partners. In 1994 Ferrari made the first attempt with G. Alippi, M. Girardi, E. Lanfranconi (IT) and C. Fowler (US). He returned in 1995 with S. Arrigoni, M. Conti, M. Panzeri and A. Spandri, climbing soo meters. Later in 1995 G. Anghiliere and V. Carotta also made an attempt, and they were followed by another in 1996 by S. Arrigoni and A. Taglialegne. Sometime later Taglialegne made a solo attempt, during which an old fixed rope snapped and he fell 20 meters. He was stopped thanks to a loose back up. In 2003 Conti led another unsuccessful attempt, which was followed in 2007 by yet another failed attempt, this one including the eventual first ascensionists. In 1996 S. Benoist, S. Gavard, P. Menats and). Thiniers (FR) tried a line just to the right, climbing three new pitches and drilling 40 holes for rivets, bat -hooks and bolts. Gear. Big wall rack. Descent. Rappel the route. Bibliography. High 152 p. r3; High r64 p. 29- 30; Lo Scarpone I995/4 p. 13. S Giordani- Maspes attempt 187 In late 1995 Maurizio Giordani and Gianluca Maspes (IT) attempted a beautiful line in the center of the NW face. Using fixed ropes, and with the help of G. Bonfanti, F. Boselli, D. Cabas and F. Margola, they climbed 2r pitches (6oom) to a high point 200 meters below the summit ridge. The climbing to that point required about 6o hook

186

Cerro Piergiorgio

West & NW fa ce

moves to link discontinuous features. Hoping to return the following year to complete the route, they left all their fixed ropes in place. Twelve months later the ropes were so frayed that they proved unusable, so the two gave up and abandoned them on the wall. Initially Giordani and Maspes reported this attempt as a new route, giving it a name. They claimed to have resolved the main difficulties ("il grande muro e risolto e salito .. ."). Later they explained that they had decided to name their attempt to commemorate what, for them, had been a positive experience. These various claims generated a heated debate in Italy, see Alp 129 p. 6 (Sarchi) and Alp 138 p. 91 (Giordani). In 2006 Maspes returned with E. Andreola, K. Astner, H. Barmasse andY. Parimbelli. They reclimbed n pitches before retreating, leaving more fixed ropes in place. During their attempt Giordani and Maspes used a single set of Friends to #4, 30 pitons, hooks and stoppers. They left in place 25 pitons, 5 protection bolts and some belay bolts.

Cerro Piergiorgio

& NW face

187

Bibliography. High 164 p. 29-30; Alp 132 p. 22- 25; High 165 p. 40; High 171 p. 8o; RdM 187 p. 10 -n; GHM 95/96 p. so; GHM 96/97 p. s6; CAl- RM 1996/6 p. 68 -71; Lo Scarpone 1996/10 p. 7·

Cerro Piergiorgio west and NW

face.

PIERGIORGIO & POLLONE GROUP

4

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(IT), 2/1996, to the east ridge. 187, T 188

Description. This is an impressive

line. lt tackles the far left side of the NW face, climbing 16 difficult pitches to reach the east ridge. No holes were drilled other than for belay bolts. History. The first ascent party fixed ropes over a three-week period, removing them after the ascent, leaving the line clean. They retreated from the top of the wall, where it meets the east ridge (unclimbed at that point in time), some 250 meters below the summit. The route was named in memory of jose Luis Domeiio Rayo, a young Basque climber who slipped to his death while attempting a new route nearby. "Rayo" was a well-loved Patagonian regular. Gear. Big wall rack. Descent. Rappel the route. Bibliography. Lo Scarpone 1996/7 p. I4- 15; High 164 p. 30; AA) 1997 p. 247; GHM 95/96 p. 50.

35m 6aAl 5

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188

Cerro Piergiorgio

& NW face

Northeast ridge 7

ESPERANDO LA CUMBRE

400m, 75° 6a Cl Maurizio Giordani - Gian Luca Maspes (IT), 12/1996, to the base of the summit mushroom. 181, 187, 199

Description. When approached via the Glaciar Fitz Roy Norte, this is a fairly easy, fun and scenic alpine route in a great setting. The original line, approaching via the Glaciar Marconi, climbs four pitches up a couloir left of the NW face and involves a few moves of aid around a big chockstone. Once on the east side a short buttress (four pitches, 6a Al) leads to the NE ridge (easy snow, 55°). A final rock section (two pitches, 6a) gains the top of one of Cerro Piergiorgio's many summit gendarmes. History. ln r963 C. Fava and A. Mengelle attempted this line, climbing to within a few meters of the east ridge. The name refers to this route being a consolation prize, climbed after the first ascensionists gave up on an attempt on Cerro Piergiorgio's NW face. The pair stopped at the base of a seven- meter- tall rime mushroom, which they deemed too unstable to climb. Approach. Piedra del Fraile to Glaciar Marconi Sur. However, if you plan to climb only the upper portion, then Piedra del Fraile to Paso del Cuadrado to Glaciar Fitz Roy Norte (P3), or De Agostini to Niponino to Boquete del Piergiorgio (N9). Gear. Doubles to #I, one each to #3, stoppers, 3-4 ice-screws. Descent. Rappel the route. CERRO POLLONE (ca. 26oom).

The Cerro Pallone group includes many summits and several impressive rock pillars, offering interesting routes with every style of climbing. There are great lines such as A Fine Piece, La Granja and Mastica e Sputa. De Agostini named this peak in I935 after the small town in Piedmont where he was born. Rodolfo Dangl, Roberto Matzi, Agustine Lantschner and Hans Zechner made the first ascent in I949-

Cerro Pollone

189

Bibliography. Giordani: Pareti 3 p. 20; AAJ 1998 p. 277-278; RdM 198

p.

s; G H M 96(97 p. 38,

p. 57· Fava: CAl-AIM 1972 (p. 841 · 842).

PIERGIORGIO & POLLONE GROUP

., South face Approach. Piedra del Fraile to Paso del Cuadrado to

Glaciar Fitz Roy Norte (P3), or De Agostini to Niponino to Boquete del Piergiorgio (N9). 1

CARA SUR 400m, 65° 4

Rodolfo Dangi-Roberto Matzi (AR)-Agustine Lantschner-Hans Zechner (AT -AR), 2/1949. Description. This is a great objective for those interested

in classic mountaineering. It is a little harder than Cerro Electrico or Moj6n Rojo, but it is far more scenic andremote. Because of glacier recession the original route now has some objective danger. A harder but safer variation to the right is recommended . ., PH 192 History. The first ascensionists initially attempted Cerro Fitz Roy, which Zechner had already tried the previous year with M. Bertone and N. Gianolini. They made two attempts from the Torre Valley, climbing both times to the top of the Filo del Hombre Sentado. On their third attempt they decided to attempt Cerro Pallone instead. Like many of the pioneers of early Argentine mountaineering, Lantschner and Zechner were of European origin, having learned the art of climbing in the Alps. Gear. Four cams to #I, five stoppers, 3-5 ice-screws. Descent. Rappel and downclimb the route (Abalakovs). Bibliography. CAB-Anuario 1950 p. 14-26; Saint Loup (1951) Monts Pacifique, Arthaud, Paris (p. 51- 55) . .,

West face - Pilar Oeste

The west pillar of Cerro Pollone is an impressive formation north of Cerro Piergiorgio's NW face. It has seen only two ascents to date but most definitely deserves more attention. Approach. Piedra del Fraile to Glaciar Marconi Sur. Note that this approach is no longer than that to such classics as Chiaro di Luna on Aguja Saint- Exupery. 2

A FINE PIECE

SSOm, 6b Gregory Crouch-Jim Donini (US), 11/1999.

190

Cerro Pollone

Description. Good rock in a phenomenal setting. According to the first ascensionists the route might go free at around 7a. 190, 199, T 191 History. The first ascent was completed in alpine style, bivouacking twice on top of pitch seven. The name is a politically incorrect response to the overly politically correct name of the nearby Greenpeace. D. Anker and M. Piola (CH) attempted this line in rg88, retreating after I3 pitches. They placed bolted anchors to this point. Gear. Doubles to #3, one #4, TCUs, stoppers. Descent. Rappel the route. Bibliography. Piola: Mountain I30 p. 20-25; Vertical32 p. 28 -37; AA) I990 p. 208. Donini: Climbing I94 p. 95· 3

TRAVESfA DEL POLLONE BOOm, 7aAO

Scott Bennett-Blake Herrington (US), 02/2011. Description. This is Cerro Pallone's "line of strength". A long and scenic route, it combines great crack climbing up the west pillar with alpine trickery along the summit ridge. Mistakenly, the first ascensionists approached too high, climbing to the base ofTito Carrasco (three pitches). They then had to rappel across a steep glacial tongue to reach the vicinity of the base of the pillar. Unable to reach the start of A Fine Piece, they climbed a four -pitch variation, joining the original route at the end of its seventh pitch. They continued for seven pitches to the top of the pillar and the end of A Fine Piece. The pair now climbed five more pitches along the horizontal ridge to the summit of Cerro Pollone (good rock, mostly easy with one short bit of 6b) following a line parallel to the first ascent route. The free-climbing crux to this point was a well-protected right-leaning crack on the fourth pitch (7a). The rock here is fantastic and many of the middle pitches feature knobs and pockets. From the summit of Cerro Pallone they headed east to the slightly lower Cumbre Este (east summit), traversing a long, previously unclimbed ridge and passing the exit to Mastica e Sputa. On this section they made two short rappels and found a section of bad rock just before the east summit, where they used a few points of Ao to surmount an overhang.

Cerro Pollone

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In all, they climbed 450 meters of virgin terrain. Future parties might want to use the same approach as for A Fine Piece, reaching the base of the west pillar rather than having to rappel to it. 190, 199 History. The first ascent was completed over two days, climbing alpine style, without jumars, and all free except for the few moves of Ao before the east summit. During this traverse they made the second ascents of both Cerro Pollone and of Cerro Pallone's Cumbre Este. Gear. Doubles to #3, TCUs, stoppers, r-2 ice-screws. Descent. As for Re Puesto. West face - Pilar Oeste Chico Cerro Pallone's lower west pillar is a 400- meter unclimbed feature located between Cerro Pallone's Pilar Oeste and Cerro Piergiorgio's NW face. Approach as for the Pilar Oeste.

Cerro Pollone from the south .

4 Sass- Wagner attempt. P. Sass- B. Wagner (DE), 2009, retreating after five pitches (to 7a). 199

•v.... . 192

Cerro Pol lone

CERRO POLLONE CUMBRE ESTE

Neil Kauffman and jim Toman (US) made the first ascent in 20n. Southeast and south face Approach. Piedra del Fraile to Paso del Cuadrado to Glaciar Fitz Roy Norte (P3). 5

RE PUESTO!

650m, 65° 6b Cl M4 Neil Kauffman-Jim Toman (US), 1/2011.

Description. A dirty crack on the initial rock buttress leads to nice granite. Climb a chimney and superb cracks on good rock to an exposed hand traverse. Gritty granite now leads to a 200-meter snowfield and the east ridge. The climbing now becomes incredible and involves alpine trickery, including a pendulum left to a short Cl pitch in order to avoid a blank slab. The exposure continues, as the climb traverses below the ridge (6b) to a strenuous off-width. A short section with aid and one last slab leads 192, 193 to the summit. Thirteen pitches.

Cerro Pollone

Cumbre Este and Aguja Pollone from theSE.

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193

,

PIERGIORGIO & POLLONE GROUP

6 20m 6b

5 60m 6b

4 60m 6c

History. This was the first ascent of Cerro Pallone's Cumbre Este. lt was completed with a bivy on the descent. The name describes being beat from too much partying but in this case refers to the first ascensionists being dehydrated and tired from their day and a half of climbing. Gear. Doubles to #3, one #4, TCUs, stoppers, 2 ice-screws. Descent. Make three rappels south, just west of the south ridge. Now head west across an obvious ice field and make two more rappels from Abalakovs. 6

3 60m 6a+

2 60m 6a

1 50m 5

MASTICA E SPUTA

SSOm, ss• M6 Luigi Crippa - Lorenzo Nadali (IT), 10/1996. Description. This is a beautiful ice climb, a must do! The narrow smear in the upper half is incredible. However, the approach is exposed to serac fall. The first four pitches contain good ice and are straightforward. The following pitch is the crux. lt involves thin ice and difficult mixed climbing (two pitons in place). At the shoulder the route traverses so meters west (snow to 55°) to a narrow but low angle ice smear. Climb this for five pitches (some are run out) to a small saddle on the ridge, where the route ends. History. The name refers to the lyrics of Ho Vis to Tina Volare, a song by Italian singer- songwriter Fabrizio De Andre. The chorus of the song goes "Chew and spit, to one side the honey( ... ) to the other the wax( ... ) before it snows ... " lt refers to chewing the honeycomb, an old practice of Calabrian beekeepers, but also addresses the bitter -sweetness oflife. 192, 193 Gear. One each to #2, some stoppers, 3-5 pitons, s-8 ice-screws. Descent. Rappel the line of ascent to the snow slope, then head west to a short gully and descend this with two rappels from Abalakovs. 7

BEG, BORROW OR STEAL

350m, 6b+ Mikey Schaefer- Blair Williams (US), 1/2002, to the obvious break. 192 Description. This route offers varied climbing, with everything from thin cracks to slabs to lay backs, as well

194

Cerro Pollone

as a couple of off- widths. The first ascent party climbed a total of nine 6o -meter pitches and retreated on reaching the snowfield at the top of the buttress, where their line joined Mastica e Sputa. No bolts or pitons were placed, although there is one bolt, placed during an earlier attempt by a different party. History. The name refers to a number of incidents that occurred before the climb. A year earlier L. Lanfranchi (CH) and G. Ongaro (lT) attempted a line just to the right, retreating after four pitches. Gear. Doubles to #4, TCUs, stoppers. Descent. Rappel the route (eight rappels). 8

RAYUELA 300m, 80° MS Oriol Bar6 (ES)-Manuel Quiroga (AR), 11/2009.

Description. Climbs six pitches linking thin ice smears. At the obvious snowfield climb up and slightly right to join Mastica e Sputa for its last five pitches (550m altogether). History. The first ascent party intended to repeat Mastica e Sputa, but were discouraged by the dangerous serac that threatens the approach. Instead, they climbed this alternate start. 192 Gear. One each to #2, stoppers, 3-5 pitons, 5-8 ice-screws. Descent. As for Mastica e Sputa. Cerro Pollone - Filo Este 9

AGUJA STEFAN (ca. 2200m).

This is a small tower located between Cerro Pallone's Cumbre Este and Aguja Pallone. Traverse under the east ridge of Aguja Pallone, then head west across a long snow ramp (50°) to reach the short summit pyramid (som, 6a Al). Stefan Gatt (AT) did the first ascent, solo, in 1998, naming the tower after himself. Approach as for Aguja Pallone. 193 AGUJA POLLONE (ca. 2300m). Approach. Piedra del Fraile to Paso del Cuadrado to Glaciar Fitz Roy Norte (P3).

Aguja Pollon e

195

PIERGIORGIO & POLLONE GROUP

South face

10 25m 6b

10

9 40m 6b

8 40m 6b A2

7 30m

6b A3

6 50m 6a+ Al

5 50m 6b A2

4 20m 5+ A2 3 50m 6b Al

CARA SUR 350m, 5+ A2 Richard Smithers-Clive Ward (ZA), 2/1976.

Description. The first ascent party climbed 12 pitches. History. Smithers and Ward were part of a large South African team with the north face of Cerro Fitz Roy as their original objective. 193, 195 Descent. Rappel the route. Bibliography. AA) 1977 p. 231; journal of the Mountaineering Club of South Africa 1976 p. 19-24. East ridge 11

LA GRANJA 350m, 6c Nicolas Benedetti-Ramiro Calvo-juan Canale-Flavia Renzacci (AR), 3/1997.

Description. La Granja climbs an impressive knife-edge ridge and is the one route really worth repeating on Aguja Pallone. The last pitch involves a compact granite slab with no protection (6b). 193, 195, T 194 History. At the time the first ascensionists worked together as guides on the Glaciar Perito Moreno. They lived on the southern shores of the Brazo Rico, in a small camp that they affectionately called "La Granja" (the farm) for its striking resemblance to a drug rehab camp. Gear. Doubles to #3, stoppers. Descent. Rappel the route. North face 12

2 25m 6a+ Al

JOVIEJO 350m, 6b A3 Erich and Stefan Gatt (AT), 3/1998.

History. "Joviejo" stands for joven y viejo-young and old. Erich and Stefan are father and son. 195, T 196 Gear. Doubles to #3, one #4, TCUs, stoppers, 8-12 pitons. Descent. The first ascent party made two rappels to the west and then another five to the north. Rappelling La Granja might be faster and easier.

196

Aguja Pollone

AGUJA TITO CARRASCO (ca. 23oom). This is a small tower in the heart of the Pollone group. It is a great objective for those visiting this particular valley for the first time. First ascensionists Greg Crouch and jim Donini named it after a Bolivian climber, who was a close friend of Angela Donini, jim's wife. Carrasco died after being hit by stone fall while climbing in El Potrero Chico, Mexico. Approach. Piedra del Fraile to Glaciar Marconi Sur. Note that this approach is not any longer than that to such classics as Chiaro di Luna on Aguja Saint -Exupery.

Aguja Tito Carrasco west and north face.

13

CARA OESTE 400m, 40° 6b Gregory Crouch- jim Donini (US), 11/1999.

Gear. Doubles to #3, stoppers. Descent. Rappel the route.

197, 199

Aguja Tito Carrasco

Bibliography. Climbing '94 p. 95·

197

PIERGIORGIO & POLLONE GROUP

14

CARA NORTE 400m, 35o 6b Joel and Neil Kauffman-Jim Toman (US), 2/2010. Description. Climb a snow gully to a point directly below the col north of the tower. A flaring crack and a pitch on the east side of the ridge bring you to a series ofledges that give access to the upper headwall. Climb this via crack systems on its west side. 197, 199 Gear. Doubles to #3, TCUs, stoppers. Descent. Rappel the route. GRAN GENDARME DEL POLLONE (ca. 22oom). Approach. Piedra del Fraile to Glaciar Marconi Sur. East face CARA ESTE 250m, 5+ A1 Rab Carrington-Alan Rouse (GB), 12/1976. Description. An initial steep pitch, followed by two more moderate pitches, lead to the summit, where the view is almost unbelievable. 193 Gear. Doubles to #3, stoppers. Descent. Rappel the route. 15

Bibliography. Mountain 58 p. 18- 21; AAJ 1978 p. 581-583; Climbing 47 p. 5-11.

West face WITCHES BREW 350m, 7a C2 Crystal Davis-Robbins-John Verbeck (US), 2/2011, to the ridge. 199 Description. As this face is rather featureless, the start of the route is obvious, up a right facing corner that has cracks leading into it from the left. The first pitch starts with a finger crack, then traverses to a dihedral (hands and fists), finally reaching a ledge (6b+). The second pitch climbs a short off-width to a finger crack in a dihedral, then moves around a corner and over a boulder (6b/6b+). The third pitch starts by scrambling into a right facing corner that narrows (tricky pro), then widens (off-width) to a few exciting moves at the end (7a). The fourth pitch involves a steep hand and fist crack to surmount a bulge, and finishes with a thin finger crack around a corner 16

198

Gran Gendarme del Pollone

(6c+). From here a thin seam leads into an overhanging 30 -meter off-width with loose hanging flakes (7a C2). The next couple of pitches follow a giant black dike that starts left of the off-width and slowly traverses right on easy terrain, leading to the ridge. History. The first ascensionists retreated on joining the ridge, more or less in the vicinity of the Carrington - Rouse line. Gear. Doubles to # 4, one # 5, stoppers, hooks. Descent. Down the south ridge. LOMA BLANCA (ca. 22oom). Lorna Blanca is usually climbed from the west, from the Glaciar Marconi Sur, up an obvious gully just north of the Grand Gendarme. Although the upper section of the route is a "nasty" scramble, the views from the summit are incredible. For those without the skills required to reach some of the other summits, this is a perfect objective. To enjoy the sunset and the early morning light, consider bivouacking on the summit. You won't be disappointed. Luigi Carrel, Carlo Cassera, Alberto Marfa De Agostini and Giuseppe Pellissier (lT) made the first ascent in r936. A few hundred meters below the summit they were surprised to find Ammonites and Belemnites.

Loma Blanca

199

Cerro Pollone Group from the

west.

CORDON MARCONI

CERRO RINCON (ca. 246om). Bibliography. CAB- Anuario 1967 p. 47; AAJ 1972 p. 18o; CAB-Anuario 1979 p. 19.

Bibliography. AAJ 1978 p. 581-583; Mountain 58 p. 18- 21; Climbing 47P·5-ll.

Cerro Rincon was attempted by Argentine expeditions in 1965, 1966 and 1970. Carlos Comesaiia, who took part in the 1966 attempt, returned in 1971 with Ismael Palma. Together they made the first ascent of the peak via the NE face and east ridge (400m, 6oo 3, one short step to 90°). They approached via the right side of the heavily crevassed glacier below the peak's north face, crossing the bergschrund on the left and climbing up and right toward the summit. F. Bosch and A. Fragueiro were also part of this expedition. In 2000 David Gi:ittler, Michael Warth! (DE) and Stephan Siegrist (CH) repeated Comesana's route with some variations, climbing to a secondary summit that they christened Punta Amigos. Approach via Piedra del Fraile and the Glaciar Marconi Sur. ._PH 180 AGUJA VOLONQUI (ca. 22oom) & COLMILLOS SUR, CENTRAL AND NORTE The ridge north of Cerro Rincon has four granite summits, Colmillos Sur, Central and Norte, and the northernmost and highest peak called Aguja Volonqui. In 1976 Rab Carrington and Alan Rouse (GB) climbed to within two meters ofVolonqui's summit, deeming the final two-meter rime mushroom too unstable to ascend. They climbed a snow gully left of the east face to reach

""Carlos Comesana on the summit of Cerro Rincon after completing the first ascent . .. Aguja Volonqui from the east.

200

Cerro Rincon

CORDON MARCONI

the south ridge, then followed the crest for nine pitches (ice and mixed). The descent involved 20 rappels. Hector Vieytes, a renowned Argentine climber and sleeping bag manufacturer, was a good friend of Carrington and Rouse and is responsible for the peak's name. ln Argentine slang it means "total mess." For almost two decades, until his death in 1994, Vieytes was host to many international expeditions passing through Buenos Aires. Carrington, the founder of Rab, the well known clothing and equipment company, learned to sew from Vieytes. The Colmillos saw one attempt in the 90s, but remain unclimbed. 180 The approach is via Piedra del Fraile and the Glaciar Marconi Sur. AGUJA DUMBO (ca. 2room). Aguja Dumbo is a large tower located just south of Cerro Marconi Sur and is named after its resemblance to an elephant's ear. lt is still unclimbed. There is an easy looking line from the lee Cap. CORDON MARCONI

De Agostini christened Cordon Marconi (Marconi chain) after Guglielmo Marconi (1874-1937), an Italian electrical engineer who was partly responsible for the development of wireless telegraphy and was also president of the "Regia Accademia d'ltalia", one of the supporters of De Agostini's expedition. lt is completely coincidental that the river flowing from the mountains named after an electrical engineer is called Rio Electrico. Kolliker's 1916 expedition saw these mountains from the west, while making a traverse of the lee Cap. This team originally named the central summit Cerro El Cajon (box peak), after the square shape that it has when viewed from the west. Unfortunately, De Agostini had too many European heroes to celebrate, and sponsors to thank, to respect Kolliker's name. The Marconis receive little to no attention. There has been a relatively large number of ascents of Cerro Marconi Norte, but Cerro Marconi Central remains unclimbed and Cerro Marconi Sur has only received one ascent.

202

Cordon Marconi

CORDON MARCONI

page 205,. Cerros Marconi Sur and Central east face.

CERRO MARCONI SUR (ca. 248om). This is the highest of the three Marconis, with only one ascent to date. It is an imposing peak that certainly deserves more attention. ln I99S Antonio Taglialegne (lT) soloed an impressive line on the east face (6oom, 8oo s+). Near the summit he self-belayed one pitch, on which he placed two pitons. He bivouacked once, on the descent from the summit, at a saddle just to its north. He approached from Piedra del Fraile via the Glaciar Marconi Sur. There were two attempts on the west face. Both approached via Piedra del Fraile, the Paso Marconi and the lee Cap. ln I982 P. Cottescu, 0. DiPietro and). Sonntag (AR) climbed a gully (to 70°) to a col south of the summit, retreating from a point ISO meters below the top. ln I999 L. Monnoyeur and B. Sourzac (FR) climbed the same couloir but before reaching the col, they moved left up a leftward slanting gully. After two pitches (to Sso) rotten ice forced them to retreat. ,. PH 204, 205 CERRO MARCONI CENTRAL (ca. 238om).

Bibliography. CAB- Anuario 1967 p. 48-49 p. no; AAJ 1967 p. 402-403.

ln Ig66 Edgard Kopcke, Avedis Naccachian and Enrique Triep (AR) crossed the Paso Marconi and climbed easy snow on the west face to reach the ridge just north of an obvious black wall (the "box-shaped" feature after which Kolliker had originally named the peak). The wall is 300 meters high and involved moderate rock climbing (to s) leading to a delicate traverse under the summit rime mushrooms. The last rime mushroom was overhanging, so the three retreated. ln all they climbed 700 meters (6oo s) and made IS rap pels on the descent. They were part of

Cordon Marconi from the east.

204

Cordon Marconi

an eight-man team. Naccachian ha a year earlier with Carlos Rey. Cerro remains unclimbed. ,. PH 204, 205 CERRO MARCONI NORTE

This is a fun, easy peak that offer err- summit. Those looking for easy have this peak near the top of their -ln I9S2 Alain Cazaux, jean Pillet, Carlos Stegmann and Gerar o the first ascent of the peak via its nofrom the Paso Marconi. They were tion that also carried out an east to lee Cap. Bibliography. CAB-Anuario I953 p. ---

e three Marconis, with only one - :-posing peak that certainly deegne (IT) soloed an impressive m. Boo 5+). Near the summit he .. ,,·hich he placed two pitons. -.be descent from the summit, at - He approached from Piedra del coni Sur. "-=-""W?3 on the west face. Both ap;::-:aile, the Paso Marconi and the 0. Di Pietro and J. Sonntag o a col south of the sum-- '50 meters below the top. In urzac (FR) climbed the same ate col, they moved left up a '"'"'=--..er rwo pitches (to 85°) rotten

. ;accachian and Enrique -- :.larconi and climbed easy the ridge just north of an -shaped" feature after which -ffi the peak). The wall is 300 __ rock climbing (to 5) the summit rime hroom was overhanging, r.hey climbed 700 meters (6oo --e descent. They were part of

an eight-man team. Naccachian had made an attempt a year earlier with Carlos Rey. Cerro Marconi Central 204, 205 remains unclimbed. CERRO MARCONI NORTE (ca. 22oom) . This is a fun, easy peak that offers great views from the summit. Those looking for easy alpine objectives should have this peak near the top of their list. In 1952 Alain Cazaux, Jean Guthmann, Jean Vincent Pillet, Carlos Stegmann and Gerardo Watzl (AR) made the first ascent of the peak via its north face, approaching from the Paso Marconi. They were part of a big expedition that also carried out an east to west crossing of the lee Cap. Bibliography. CAB-Anuario 1953 p. 12-14.

Cerro Marconi Central from the NW.

Cordon Marconi

205

F1Tz Rov GRouP

Fantastic rock quality along the BrennerMoschioni route on the north ridge of Aguja Guillaumet.

CERRO ELECTRICO (ca. 226om). The summit of Cerro Electrico offers great views of the east side of the Fitz Roy group. lt has three clearly distinct summits: a black pyramid close to the Paso Guillaumet called Castillo Negro; a glaciated summit further east, which is the main summit; and a red pyramid further NE, which is likely unclimbed. Early western settlers named this peak after the windy and stormy nature of the valley, where they would often hear loud bangs reminiscent of electrical discharges. De Agostini was the first to record the name Electrico, and with guide Mario Derriard (IT) made the first ascent in 1932, climbing from the east. ln 1998 Max O'Dell (AR) skied the east face (45°) and later the south face. Lliboutry named the obvious red pyramid to the northeast Cerro Electrico Noreste (ca. 204om). To climb Cerro Electrico head toward Piedra del Fraile as far as an obvious creek that flows from the glacier on the east face . Hike up alongside the creek to the front of the glacier, then up the glacier to the summit. Cerro Electrico is located on private land, so you must request permission and possibly pay a fee before attempting it. 207 This can be done at Estancia Ricanor. CASTILLO NEGRO (ca. 22oom). Lliboutry named the black pyramid close to the Paso Guillaumet "Cerro Electrico Oeste", giving it an alternative name "Chateau Noir" - Castillo Negro. Since the name Cerro Electrico Oeste has been mistakenly assigned on all the latest maps to the peak immediately north of the Paso del Cuadrado, it seems best to stick with Lliboutry's alternative name to avoid confusion. Carlos Comesaiia (AR) made the first ascent, solo, in 1964 (3oom, 4+), approaching from the Paso Guillaumet (Pl). 66, 207

j.R. Luque during the second ascent of Castillo Negro in 1965.

208

Cerro Electrico

AGUJA GUILLAUMET (ca. 2580 m). This peak provides a good warmup for those visiting the area for the first time. The golden rock of the north buttress is certainly worth touching, as are the inviting couloirs on the east face and the steep ice sheets of the Beger - jennings. Most of the routes on the west face still await free ascents and are good alternatives for short weather windows or when the weather is too warm to make bigger objectives safe. Lliboutry named this peak after Henri Guillaumet (r902- r940), a French Aeropostale pilot who along with Antoine de Saint -Exupery, jean Mermoz and others established many of the world's first postal air routes. By the time Guillaumet died, when his plane was shot down between Marseille and Tunisia, he had completed 92 crossings of the southern Atlantic and 393 crossings of the Andes in his light aircraft. Carlos Comesaiia and jose Luis Fonrouge (AR) made the first ascent in r965.

page 210 Aguja Guillaumet north face and NW ridge. Aguja Guillaumet north face and NW ridge.

Aguja Guillaumet

209

FITZ Rov GRouP

Bibliography. Comesana: CAB- Anuario 1967 p. 25- 31; AAJ 1966 p. 75-80; GHM 1965 p. 36; Fonrouge j.L. (1999) Horizontes Verticales en Ia Patagonia, El Elefante Blanco, Buenos Aires (p. 75- 87). Giordani: AAJ 1992 p. 172-173; GHM 1994- 95 p. 54; CAl - RM 1991/5 p. 77-

.,

Northwest ridge

1

COMESANA - FONROUGE

400m, 30° 6b+ Carlos Comesana-jose Luis Fonrouge (AR), 1(1965. 209, 210, T 211

Description. This route is a perfect choice for a first climb in the area. The crux can be easily aided. History. Comesafia had made an attempt a year earlier, climbing past the crux before retreating. Solo Ascents. Rolando Garibotti (AR), 1988; Horacio Bresba (AR) 1992;

210

Aguja Guillaumet

North face

Victor Razuri (AR), 1995; many more since. Strategy. Under normal conditions boots, crampons and ice -axe are necessary to reach the base of the route and to climb the last 70 meters to the summit. Approach. Piedra del Fraile to Piedra Negra, then up the left side of the glacier, onto a talus field, and finally across a snowfield (45°) to the right. One and a half hours from Piedra Negra. Gear. Doubles to #r, one each to #3, stoppers. I Descent. Rappel the route.

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I.

30m 2 110 30m 4 19 30m 318

30m 5 17

1.1 CUI NAS- ROSASCO 200m, 5+ - Hector Cuif\as-Aifredo Rosasco (AR), 1979.

35m 6b+ l6

209,210

joins the Comesafia- Fonrouge route at the base of the crux pitch.

40m 4 15

40m 4 14

1.2 GIORDANI 300m, 4 Maurizio Giordani (IT), 1990. 209,210

30m 4 13

This variation climbs the lower section of the ridge and is a great way to make the Comesafia- Fonrouge more challenging (7oom altogether).

40m 4 12

,. West face Approach. Piedra del Fraile to Piedra Negra, then follow the Agujas Mermoz and Guillaumet west faces approach (P2).

Aguja Guillaumet

face

211

FITZ Rov GRouP

page 213 Aguja Guillaumet west face.

2

POLACA

300m, 30° 6b+ Mariusz Nowak-Marcin Szczotka (PL), 2/2004. Description. Joins the Comesafia - Fonrouge 100 meters 213 below the summit (4oom altogether). Gear. Doubles to #3, stoppers. Descent. Rappel the route or the Comesafia - Fonrouge. 3

ANONIMO ANOS 80

300m, 30° 6c C1, unknown Description. Starts with a short traverse that requires aid to gain an obvious corner of solid rock. Climb this corner to join the Comesafia- Fonrouge 100 meters below the summit (4oom altogether). 213 History. Grega Lacen and Tomaz Jakofcic (Sl) rediscovered this climb in 2007, finding much 1980s gear in place. 4

PATAGONIAN WEREWOLVES

400m, 30° ?a A1 Marcos Costa (BR) -Sergey Dashkevich (RU), 3/2012. 213

Description. The rock quality is excellent and provides every variety of crack climbing: off-widths; chimneys; hand-cracks; finger -cracks; as well as several slabs. Only three stoppers were left in place. Twelve pitches. History. So named because the first ascensionists climbed the last section of the route, and descended, under a full moon. Gear. Doubles to # 3, one each to #5, double TCUs, stoppers, s-6 pitons. Descent. Rappel the Comesafia- Fonrouge or the Amy-Vidailhet. 5

Bibliography. AAJ 2009,

p.

207-208.

DISFRUTE LA VIDA

450m, 30° 6b AO Carsten von Birckhahn (DE)- Michal Pitelka (CZ), 1/2009. Description. Pitelka describes this as an enjoyable climb and believes it could be freed at around 6c. It starts right of an obvious roof situated close to the ground. The third pitch is the crux and has bolt protection (three bolts

212

Aguja Guillaumet

face

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connect crack systems). Higher, large Camalots are useful. All belays are bolted. Thirteen pitches. 213 Gear. Doubles to #3, one each to #5, TCUs, stoppers. Descent. Rappel the route.

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12 30m 5+

213

Description. Climbs a series of roofs at half height to reach a 30-meter, #6 off-width crack. ley cracks directly below the summit block forced the first ascensionists to make a pendulum/rappel to a crack further left. History. The route was climbed during a short weather window (a short "ventana") and is mostly cracks ("fisuras"). Hence the name "Vent'uras." Gear. Doubles to #4, one each to #6, TCUs, stoppers. Descent. Rappel Disfrute Ia Vida.

I I I 1-

ll 40m 5 C2

LAS VENT'URAS

450m, 30° 6c AO Scott Bennett-Blake Herrington (US), 02/2011.

I I

10 45m 6a C2

9 40m 5+

8 50m 5+ C1

7

PADRIJO

450m, 6a C2 Erich and Stefan Gatt (AT) 2/1993.

7 40m 5+ Cl

213, 215, T 214

6 20m 5+ C1

5 30m 6a

Description. There are two options once below the summit block. The first ascensionists traversed down and right, then exited right of the summit overhang. D. Drummond and F. Wilkinson (US) climbed straight up, via a burly off-width and squeeze chimney that tops out IS meters south of the summit ("Fissure Mad Dog"). The route can be climbed

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Aguja Guillaumet

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free except for a few moves of aid to bypass icy sections. Eleven to 14 pitches. History. The first ascent was completed in alpine style with one bivouac. The name reflects that the first ascensionists are father and son; padre- hijo. Gear. Doubles to #3, one each to #5, TCUs, stoppers, RPs. Descent. Rappel the route or the nearby Tee Pitelka (bolted anchors). Bibliography. AAJ 1995 p. 214. 8

TEE PITELKA

400m, 6b C1 Carsten von Birckhahn (DE)- Michal Pitelka (CZ), 12/2010. 213,215

Description. This is the easiest of the three routes Yon Birckhahn and Pitelka put up on this face. They estimate it should be possible to climb it free at around 6c. The crux is situated in the lower half, and the upper chimney can be avoided by climbing cracks to the left. Bolted anchors. Eleven pitches. Gear. Double to #3, one #4, TCUs, stoppers. Descent. Rappel the route. 9

MANOS Al CIELO

250m, 7a Scott Bennett-Cheyne lempe (US), 1/2012. 213,215

Description. The lower half is stellar, involving clean and steep hand- cracks. The route starts up an obvious corner/ chimney system between Tee Pitelka and Rayo de Luz, then climbs left into a steep hanging corner, joining Tee Pitelka after seven pitches (4oom, 7a altogether). History. The first ascent was completed in a day and all free (redpoint). lt is named and dedicate to Carlyle Norman, a young Canadian climber who died on Aguja Saint- Exupery. Gear. Double to #3, one #4, TCUs, stoppers. Descent. Rappel Tee Pitelka (bolted anchors).

Aguja Guillaumet west face.

Aguja Guillaumet

face

215

F1Tz

Rov

GROUP

10

Bibliography. AAJ 2009, 20 208 7·

P·

RAYO DE LUZ

400m, 6b C1 Carsten von Birckhahn (DE) -Michal Pitelka (CZ), 1/2009. Description. This route is steep, with an enjoyable middle section and cruxes at the start and finish. The first ascensionists estimate it would go free at around 6c. Bolted 213, 215 anchors. Fourteen pitches. Gear. Doubles to #3, one #4, TCUs, stoppers. Descent. Rappel the route. East face Approach. Rio Blanco to Paso Superior to Glaciar Piedras Blancas Superior (Sl), or Piedra del Fraile to Piedra Negra to Paso Guillaumet (Pl). 11

Bibliography. Cave: High 203 p. 86.

THE GAMBLER

450m, Wl6 M7 Topher Donahue-Jared Ogden (US), 12/2001. Description. Climbed in "winter conditions" as a mixed/ ice route. Ogden felt it was the most difficult mixed climb he had done, finding five pitches with difficulties to M7 and several sections ofWI6. 217, 223 History. The first ascent took I2 hours. In 1998 A. Cave and D. Hesleden (GB) had retreated from two-thirds height. Descent. Rappel the route. 12

LET'S GET WILD

500m, 90° 7a Simon Gietl (IT)- Roger Schali (CH), 12/2011. Description. Climbs to the summit of a previously unclimbed gendarme on Guillaumet's south ridge. 217, 223 History. The route was climbed on-sight, with no bolts. Gear. Doubles to #3, one #4, TCUs, 2 ice -screws. Descent. Initially, rappel north of the route, then down it. Bibliography. Beger: AAJ 1980 p. 598- 599· Monnoyeu r: Ve rtical Roc 14 p. 13. Parkin: High 129 p. 9 -10; AAJ 1994 p. 184.

13

BEGER-JENNINGS

450m, 95° 5+ Robert Beger-Jim Jennings (US), 3/1979. 217, 223, T 217

216

Aguja Guillaumet

East face

Description. An interesting mixed and ice climb. The crux is the 95o bergschundjserac. The first ascent party made a tension traverse to gain the central ice face . Sixteen pitches. History. The first ascensionists bivouacked twice and retreated after joining the Cresta Sur. With modern ice equipment it should be easily possible to climb the route in one day. Descent. Rappel the Amy- Vidailhet.

Aguja Guillaumet

East face

217

Aguja Guillaumet east face .

F1Tz

Rov

GROUP

13.1 COURRIER DU SUD

lOOm, 70° Laurence Monnoyeur-Antoine Noury (FR), 12/2000. 217, T 217

Three new pitches. 13.2 TERRE DES HOMMES 150m, 80° Andy Parkin (GB)-Stephen Koch (US), 2/1993. Although the original Beger- Jennings line is equally good, this has become the preferred variant. Named after a book by Antoine de Saint- Exupery. 217, T 217 14

HARD SAYING' NOT KNOWING

350m, 75° 6a C2 Kate Rutherford-Michael Schaefer (US), 1/2009. Description. Climb an unprotected chimney (5), and a hand to finger crack (6a) leading up left to a ramp, which in turn rises left and passes behind a pillar. From here climb straight up until forced left, making a short face traverse across a gully to a snow-filled corner system. Another ramp leads to a hand crack and a corner. Mixed overlooking the terrain up and left now leads to an Beger- Jennings couloir. Higher up, a depression, which requires some aid, gives access to the easy ice slope leading to the Anker- Piola roo meters below the summit (450m altogether). 217 Gear. Doubles to # 2, one #3, TCUs, stoppers, 2 ice- screws. Descent. Rappel the Amy -Vidailhet. Bibliography. MJ 2009 p. 208. 15

Bibliography. Mountain 130 p. 20- 25; Vertical 32 p. 28- 37; AAJ 1990 p. 206-208.

ANKER- PIOLA

450m, 50° 6b AO Daniel Anker- Michel Piola (CH), 1/1989. Description. At times, the rock is of poor quality. History. This is one of four new routes that Anker and Piola climbed in a ro-day spree. See Patagonicos Desesperados on Aguja Poincenot for more details. Gear. Doubles to #3, TCUs, stoppers, rice-screw. Descent. Rappel the Amy- Vidailhet. 217, T 219

218

Aguja Guillaumet

East face

16

ESLOVENA

300m, 6a+ C2 Monika Kambic (AR- Sl)- Klemen Mali (SI), 2/1998.

Description. joins the Anker- Piola 200m below the top (400m altogether). 223, T 219 Gear. Doubles to #3, TCUs, stoppers, RPs. Descent. Rappel the Amy- Vidailhet. Bibliography. High. 192, p. 23; MJ 1998 p. 280; Slovenski alpinizem 1997 p. 88-89. 17

200m 50°

20m 5 16

PIPPO FRASSON

300m, 80° 5 60m 5+ IS

Gino Buscaini -Silvia Metzeltin (IT), 12/1981.

Description. Snow and mixed ground leads to three rock pitches and more mixed ground. 223 History. The route was named after the Argentine climber and president of Centro Andino Buenos Aires, who died while attempting Cerro Fitz Roy in 1974. Gear. One each to #3, stoppers, 2 ice- screws. Descent. Rappel the Amy- Vidailhet. Bibliography. Mj 1983 p. m; Metzeltin S. (1984) Alpinismo a tempo pieno, Dall'Oglio, Milano (p. 170- 171). 18

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FOWLER

250m, 80° 5 Charlie Fowler (US), 1/1999.

Description. Easy snow leads to a deep chimney/gully with mixed and ice climbing. lt joins previously established routes wo meters below the summit (350m altogether). Fowler

Aguja Guillaumet

<-

Ea st face

219

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FITZROY GROUP

self-belayed four pitches. Good ice conditions can make this an interesting route . .. PH 223 Gear. One each to #3, stoppers, 2-3 ice- screws. Descent. Rappel the Amy- Vidailhet. Bibliography. AA) I999 p. 74-79, p. 338; High 203 p. 85. 19

COQUEUGNIOT-GUILLOT 250m, 70° S joel Coqueugniot- Fran<;:ois Guillot (FR), 2/1968 . .. PH 223

Climbing the ultra classic Amy-Vidailhet.

Description. This route is a little harder than the mega- classic Amy and is a good alternative when the latter is crowded. lt joins the Comesana - Fonrouge roo meters below the summit (350m, 70° 5 altogether) . History. Climbed a day earlier than the Amy- Vidailhet, resulting in the second ascent of the peak. Gear. One each to #2, stoppers, 2-3 ice-screws. Descent. Rappel the Amy- Vidailhet route. Bibliography. GHM I969 p. 29. 20

AMY- VIDAILHET 200m, 65° S Bernard Amy-Pierre Vidailhet (FR), 2/1968 . .. PH 223, T 221

Bibliography. Amy: GHM 1969 p. 29. Hall: Cl imbing 189 p. 30; High 203 p. 85; Climber ll/ 99. p. 42-49·

page 223 ._ Agujas Val Biois, Mermoz and Guillaumet from the east.

Description. A great little alpine route, the easiest to any of the granite summits of the massif. lt can be crowded during good weather. lt joins the Comesana- Fonrouge ISO meters below the summit (350m, 65o 5 altogether). The bergschrund can often be the crux. History. Solo ascents. Bruno Sourzac (FR), 2000; Frank Herreghewe (BE) a few days later; many others since. Winter ascent. jim Hall- Andy Kirkpatrick- Nick Lewis- Paul Ramsden (GB) 7/I999; many others since. Strategy. Easily climbed in a day from Piedra Negra. Gear. One each to #2, stoppers, I- 2 ice-screws. Descent. Rappel the route . ._ Northeast ridge Approach. Piedra del Fraile to Piedra Negra to Paso Guillaumet (P1).

220

Aguja Guillaumet

21

BRENNER-MOSCHIONI 300m, 30° 6b Eduardo Brenner- Eduardo Moschioni (AR), l/1981. 209, 210, 223, T 221

200m 30 " 5

Description. A great route with excellent rock. The crux pitch can be climbed via one of three cracks, the leftmost being the easiest (6b). There are countless variations. lt joins the Comesafia- Fonrouge rso meters below the summit (450m, 30° 6b altogether). History. Brenner died in a river rafting accident in rg88 leaving the Argentine climbing community shaken by the loss of one of its best and surely its most charismatic and loved alpinist. Solo ascents. Korra Pesce (lT), nj20n; Carsten von Birckhahn (DE), I/ 20I2. Gear. Doubles to #2, one #3, 2 or 3 TCUs, stoppers. Descent. Rappel the Amy- Vidailhet route.

40m 418

40m 3 17

SSm 6a+ l6

21.1 CARLO 200m, 6cAO Alberto Marazzi -Simone Pedeferri (IT), 2/2004. 209,210

Six new pitches. Bibliography. CAB- Anuario r982 p. ro2- ros; AAJ r982 p. r9s; CABA- Boletin Sept. r98r p. 4· North face Approach. As for the Comesana- Fonrouge.

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300m, 6c+ AO Federico Arletti-Luciano Fiorenza (AR), 2/2010, to the Comesaiia- Fonrouge. 209, 210, T 222 Description. The first ascensionists report excellent climbing and believe it will go free at around 7a+. Gear. Doubles to #3, one #4, TCUs, stoppers. Descent. Rappel the route. 23

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GUILLOTINA

TRAVESfA CRESTA SUR

Rab Carrington-Alan Rouse (GB) 12/12/1976. Description. After climbing the Coqueugniot- Guillot, the first ascensionists traversed south along the summit ridge, descending to the col between Aguja Mermoz and Aguja Guillaumet. 217, 223 From the summit move down and left (SE) to a small notch. Rappel west (zorn) and scramble horizontally across the ridge for So meters. Downclimb easy but exposed terrain to the west, then traverse south and make two short rappels to a faint ledge. Follow this for 6o meters to a dihedral immediately north of the south summit. Climb the dihedral (45m, 4+) to a notch and cross to the east side. Traverse south across a snowfield (som, 40°) and then make two 30-meter rappels toward the south to go through a chimney that leads to a shoulder on the south side of the south summit. Downclimb a little and then rappel four times (the first three 30m and the final6om) to reach the chimney that separates Aguja Guillaumet from Aguja Mermoz, traversing to reach the Argentina, and then descending this to the base. History. This was one of many ascents that Carrington and Rouse completed during a long stay in the area. The Cresta Sur traverse was repeated during the first crossing of Motocross Traverse, a traverse linking Aguja Guillaumet and Aguja Mermoz (Brenner-Cresta Sur-Argentina). Motocross Traverse was completed in II:30 hours in zoo6 by Klemen Mali and Rok Sisernik (Sl). Later, the Cresta Sur and Motocross traverses became part of the Care Bear, a traverse from Guillaumet to Fitz Roy via Mermoz and Val Biois, completed by Dana Drummond and Freddie Wilkinson (US) in zooS.

222

Aguja Guillaumet

FITZ

Rov

GROUP

Bibliography. Mountain 58 p. 18- 21; AAJ 1978 p. 581-583; Climbing 47P·S·ll.

Approach. Piedra del Fraile to Piedra Negra to Paso Guillaumet (Pr). Gear. As for the Coqueugniot - Guillot. 23.1 CUMBRE Y CRESTA SUR Horacia Bresba-Carlos Dominguez (AR) -Peter Luthi (CH) 3/1990. 217, 223, 227

Description. The reverse of the Cresta Sur traverse, involving an ascent of Guillaumet's Cumbre Sur (south summit). Climb the Argentina on Mermoz to steep cracks on the south face of Guillaumet's south summit and follow these to the top. From the summit rappel north (45m) onto the ridge, and then traverse the west flank of the crest to reach the main summit. See the description for the Cresta Sur traverse and follow it in reverse. History. This was the first ascent of Guillaumet's Cumbre Sur and one of several first ascents that Luthi completed in the area, including Agujas Bifida and De la Silla. Three years later Bresba died of hypothermia while descending Cerro Fitz Roy. Luthi, a native of Saint Moritz, lived for over 20 years in Argentina and was an important influence on several generations of Argentine climbers. Argentine alpinism owes much to him. Approach. As for the Argentina on Aguja Mermoz (P2). Gear. The steep cracks on the south face of the south summit might require a considerable rack, including pitons. Descent. Rappel the Amy- Vidailhet.

jorge Ackermann enjoys the late evening light along the south ridge of Aguja Guillaumet_

224

Aguja Guillaumet

AGUJA MERMOZ (ca. 2730m). Aguja Mermoz is best known for the popular Pilar Rojo, a steep and imposing crack climb on the east face. It has a number of other routes worth repeating, such as Cosas Patag6nicas, a 6oo-meter rock route on the west face, and Vol de Nuit and Padre Viento, two phenomenal mixed lines on the east face. The NW ridge and Fitz Roy's Pilar Goretta link-up is one of the longest routes in the massif. Lliboutry named the peak after the French pilot Jean Mermoz (rgOI-I936), who spent several years in the French air-force before becoming head pilot of the French Aeropostale lines to South America. He was the first to establish a nightly postal route between Rio de Janeiro and Santiago de Chile, crossing the Andes. He disappeared in r936, when his plane, Cruz del Sur, plummeted into the southern Atlantic. ln I974 Hector Cuiiias, Fermin Olaechea and Guillermo Vieiro (AR) made the first ascent.

West and northwest face Approach. Piedra del Fraile to Piedra Negra, then follow the approach to Agujas Mermoz and Guillaumet west faces (P2). 1

ARGENTINA 600m, 6a+ Hector Cuinas- Fermin Olaechea-Guillermo Vieiro (AR), 2/1974. 223, 225, 227, T 226

Description. This is the easiest route up the peak but it is a rather mediocre climb. History. M. Castellazzo, F. Frasson, J. de Leon, E. and H. Vivaldi (AR) attempted this line in r967. Four years later a group from Centro Andino Buenos Aires made another attempt. Solo Ascents. Charlie Fowler (US), I2/rgg8; Rolando Garibotti (AR) gj20or; Colin Haley (US), 2j2oro. Gear. Doubles to #2, one #3, stoppers. Descent. Rappel the route. Bibliography. Cuiiias: CAB-Anuario I979 p. r8. Fowler: AAJ I999 p. 74 - 79, p. 338.

Aguj a Me rmoz

Face

225

Aguja Mermoz upper north face.

FITZ

Rov

GROUP

lOOm 4 /

Bibliography. Alp 62 p. 20- 21; AAJ 1990 p. 208, p. 210; GHM 1990 p. 53; CAl- RM 1990/4 p. 68-69; RdM 117 p. 16; Lo Scarpone 1990/2 p. 18.

2

COSAS PATAGONICAS 650m, 6c+ Antonio Colombo-Giorgio Confalonieri- Davide CorbettaDanilo Galbiati -Giulio Maggioni-Vanni Spinelli - Ezio Tanzi (IT), 10/1989. Description. This is a great climb that

;

has received little attention. The crux is the 250-meter long dihedral at the start of the route. The freeclimbing crux is a thin crack and corner on the second pitch (RPs mandatory). The first ascent party drilled a bolt ladder to the right of a roof on the fifth pitch: the free version climbs the roof itself via a flaring off-width (6c). An A2 pitch high on the route can be avoided on the right via the Hypermermoz variation. 225, 227, T 226 History. The first ascent was completed using fixed ropes. The name refers to a common saying that describes the fatalism of the people that inhabit Patagonia. Free ascent. Scott Bennett-Blake Herrington (US) 2on, climbing the Hypermermoz variation. Gear. Doubles to #4, double TCUs, stoppers, RPs. Descent. Rappel the route or the Argentina. 3

1-

1-

Argentina

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Hype rmermoz

226

HYPERMERMOZ 350m, 6c Maurizio Giordani-Aido Leviti (IT), 12/1996,

to the junction with the Argentina, rsom from the top. Description. Climbs nine pitches left of Cosas Patag6nicas before joining it for three pitches. The first ascent

Ag uja Merm oz

Face

party then climbed a two-pitch variant before re-joining Cosas Patagonicas. Altogether Hypermermoz climbs 19 pitches (65om), II of which were new. 227, T 226 History. Leviti named a number of his routes by affixing the term Hyper to the name of the peak, e.g. Hyperscotoni on Cima Scotoni in the Dolomites. Integral ascent. Maciej Ciesielski- jakub Radziejowski (PL), 2j2004, to the summit (with variation). Free ascent. Tomaz jakofcic-Grega Lacen (Sl), 2006. Gear. Doubles to #3, TCUs, stoppers. Descent. Rappel the route or the Argentina.

Bibliography. High 176 p. 76; GHM 96/97 p. 39, p. 57; Pareti 3 p. 20- 21; AAJ 1997 p. 249·

Climbing the upper portion of the Argentina, Aguja Pollone in the background.

Aguja Mermoz

Face

227

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GROUP

VARIANTE POLACA 150m, 6b AO Maciej Ciesielski -Jakub Radziejowski (PL), 2/2004.

Climbs slabs immediately left of the line in the middle section with one short pendulum. , PH 227, T 226 BARRIGA PATAGONICA 600m, 6a+ Al Zlatko Koren-Kiemen Mali (SI), 2/2000,

to the summit ridge. , PH 227, 228, T 229 Description. The route sports several wide cracks. Sixteen pitches.

Guillaumet

._ Agujas Guillaumet and Mermoz from the west.

228

Aguja Mermoz ,. West Face

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History. The first ascent party fixed 120 meters of rope and then climbed the route in r8 hours. V. Banderet- P. Maillefer (CH) attempted this line in 1985, retreating after nine pitches. Gear. Doubles to #3, one each to #5, TCUs, stoppers, RPs, 6 pitons. Descent. Rappel the route, reversing the traverse on the eighth pitch. Northwest ridge Approach. Piedra del Fraile to Paso del Cuadrado to Glaciar Fitz Roy Norte (P3). 5

FILO NOROESTE (NW ridge) 1000m, 65° 6a AO Zlatko Koren-Vasja Kosuta (51), ll/2001, in two sections, to the ridge. Scott Bennett -Cheyne Lempe (US), 01/2012, first continuous ascent via a major

variation. 228, T 229 Description. This is the longest line on Aguja Mermoz, starting from the lowest point of the NW ridge immediately above the Glaciar Fitz Roy Norte. History. The first ascent party climbed the lower half before retreating. They left two ropes fixed and then escaped horizontally across a snowfield. A few days later they regained their high point and continued climbing to the Mermoz- Biois ridge, from where they retreated. Approach. Piedra del Fraile to Piedra Negra to Paso del Cuadrado to Glaciar Fitz Roy Norte. Gear. Doubles to #3, one #4, TCUs, stoppers. Descent. Rappel a line north of the route to a snowfield and then climb across slabs, reversing the approach to Agujas Mermoz and Guillaumet west faces. 5.1

NORTH PILLAR SIT START VARIATION

Bennett and Lempe made the first continuous ascent of the NW ridge, adding a soo-meter variation to the lower half. This was climbed as part of the North Pillar Sit Start 228, T 229 link-up (see Cerro FitzRoy).

230

Aguja Mermoz

NW ridge

._ East face Approach. Rio Blanco to Paso Superior to Glaciar Piedras Blancas Superior (Sl), or Piedra del Fraile to Piedra Negra to Paso Guillaumet (Pl). 6

PADRE VIENTO 400m, M6 WIS+ Top her Donahue- Jared Ogden (US), 12/2001, to the ridge. 223

Description. This is an impressive ice climb. Unfortunately, it is rarely in condition. History. In rgg8 L. Monnoyeur and B. Sourzac (FR) attempted this line, retreating after four pitches. Descent. Rappel the route (Abalakovs). Bibliography. Monnoyeur: High 203 p. 85. 7

LA GRAN DIAGONAL 300m, 80° 4 Oriol Bar6 (ES)-Manuel Quiroga- Roberto Treu (AR), 11/2011. 223,232

Description. joins Padre Viento for the last two pitches (4oom altogether). Descent. Rappel Padre Viento (Abalakovs). 8

VOL DE NUIT 450m, 90° MS+ A1 Andy Parkin (GB), 2/1993, to the ridge. 223, T 232

Description. According to Parkin, this was his hardest solo ascent, so beware. Surely a route worth climbing. History. The route is named after Antoine de SaintExupery's I93I novel, but is also an allusion to the fact that Parkin climbed the route mainly during the night. Parkin retreated from a col 50 meters below the summit. Winter ascent. Andy Kirkpatrick -Ian Parnell (GB), 8/ 2002, to the ridge. Descent. Rappel the route. Bibliography. High I29 p. ro; AA) I994 p. r84.

Aguja Mermoz

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231

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Aguja Mermoz

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FERRARI-CEBALLOS SOOm, 5+A3 Martfn Ceballos (AR)-Casimiro Ferrari (IT), 1/1994.

History. Ceballos and Ferrari fixed four ropes then completed the climb, bivouacking twice. G. and M. Dura and). Tarditti helped fix the four ropes. 223, T 232 Descent. Rappel the route. Bibliography. Lo Scarpone I994/ 3 p. ro-n ; High 142 p. 41. 10

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Kurt Albert - Bernd Arnold (DE), 1/1999.

Description. This is a remarkably good crack climb. Albert, a well -traveled climbing globetrotter, described it as one of the finest he had ever done. Many bolts in place. The approach to the base involves a steep snowfield (rsom, S0°). 223, 232, T 233 History. The first ascent was made using many fixed ropes and a power -drill. All belays are bolted and the route can be descended in 30 -meter rappels, except for the eighth pitch, which is 3S meters. Many bolts were placed immediately alongside cracks to make the climbing more amenable. Six years earlier, in 1993, T. Donahue and K. Harvey (US) had climbed most of this line, retreating 30 meters shy of the ridge because of an icy crack. They climbed to that point in a single day without any bolts or fixed ropes. After hearing about Albert and Arnold's ascent, Donahue commented, "We sure didn't feel the need for any bolts." Gear. Doubles to #3, one #4, TCUs, stoppers. Descent. Rappel the route. Bibliography. Albert: MJ 1999 p. 337; Klettern 99/ 3 p. 8; High 203 p. 8s. Desnivel rss p. 96. Donahue: MJ 1997 p. 249· 11

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12/2010. Description. This route is primarily a mixed climb and can therefore prove a good choice when conditions are

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JARDINES JAPONESES 300m, 80° 6b A1 MS Colin Haley- Jens Holsten-Mikey Schaefer (US),

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icy or the temperature cold. After 300 meters it joins the Argentina, which it follows to the summit (soom altogether). 223 History. The name refers to a climb at Index, a crag in Washington State (US). Gear. Doubles to #2, one #3, TCUs, stoppers, 2 ice -screws, 3- 5 pitons. Descent. Rappel the route. AGUJA VAL BlOIS (ca. 255om). This small tower is named after a valley in the Bell uno province of the Italian Dolomites, where one of the first ascensionists, Bruno De Dona, lives. De Dona and Guido Pagani (IT) made the first ascent in 1978. South ridge and east face Approach. Rio Blanco to Paso Superior to Glaciar Piedras Blancas Superior (Sl). 1

FILO SUR 200m, 60° 5+ Al Bruno De Dona-Guido Pagani {IT), 1/1978. 223, 234

Description. Follows the Casarotto route to the Col del Bloque Empotrado (3oom, 6oo 4), and then climbs the south ridge (so om altogether). Descent. Rappel the route. Before the col rappel the rock buttress west of the obvious ice slopes. Bibliography. CAl- RM 1978/7 - 8 p. 292. COULOIR ESTE 350m, 90° Patrick Gabarrou-Francois Marsigny-Fred Vimal (FR), 1/1992, to the ridge. 223 Description. This is the only route on Val Biois worthy of attention. Climbs a deeply encased goulotte in the center of the east face to the crest of the ridge north of the summit pyramid. At times the goulotte is only one meter wiqe. Ten pitches, of which six are quite steep. Gear. 12 ice-screws, some rock gear. Descent. Rappel the route. 2

234

Aguja Val Biois

East face

Bibliography. Alp 85 p. 23-24; High 122 p. n; AAJ 1993 p. 185- 186; Vertical45 p. 84; Desnivel 72 p. 88. 3

D.E.

300m, 100° 5 Janez Jeglic-Silvo Karo - Francek Knez (SI), 12/1983. 223

Description. The last pitch involved climbing an overhanging cornice (!00°). History. The first ascent was done in four hours. The name refers to a Slovene newspaper that sponsored Knez at the time. Bibliography. AAJ 1984 p. 219. West face Approach. Piedra del Fraile to Paso del Cuadrado to Glaciar FitzRoy Norte (P3), then up easy snow (6oom, 45°). 4

Ml MUNDO DE CONTRADICCIONES

300m, 6b Luciano Fiorenza- Pablo Pontoriero (AR)-Sacha Gal (CH) 2/2012. 235

Description. This is an alternate approach to the Col del Bloque Empotrado from the west.

page 234

-4

Aguja Val Biois south face.

Aguja Val Biois

face

235

F rTz

Rov

GROUP

CERRO FITZ ROY (ca. 3405m)

Cerro Fitz Roy provides some of the most enjoyable and high quality climbing to be found in this area. Its golden faces offer clean and mostly ice-free granite, perfect for freeclimbing, and without the added difficulties of the rime mushrooms that cap the Torre group. Each of Cerro Fitz Roy's many flanks is different; the east face is the steepest and most impressive, offering high-end freeclimbing, while the north and west faces provide excellent "moderate" freeclimbing. The south and SE flanks, being the shortest, are the most popular. The best rock is found on the east face and the Pilar Goretta. The original inhabitants of the land surrounding this peak, the Tehuelches, referred to it as "Chaltel" or "Chalten," meaning smoking mountain, a name no doubt inspired by the clouds that so often trail from the summit. Unfortunately, early explorers had their heads too full of heroes to celebrate and appreciate the poetry of the original name. It was Francisco "Perito" Moreno that renamed the peak after Robert Fitz Roy, an English astronomer and sailor (r8os-r865), who was partly responsible for the first accurate mapping of the intricate watersheds and shorelines of Patagonia and Tierra del Fuego. On Fitz Roy's second trip to Patagonia, in 1834, together with Charles Darwin, he set out to explore the Rio Santa Cruz in hopes of reaching the Andes. However, after sailing 140 miles up river they were forced to turn around, resigning themselves to a very distant sight of the snow covered mountains. (r) Moreno explained his decision, writing, "The Tehuelches mentioned to me several times, and with some superstition, this smoking mountain. It is the Chalten that spits smoke and ash and that makes the earth shake ... " He continued, "since the Tehuelches also use the name Chalten for other peaks, I allow myself to christen it Fitz Roy, as a way to show gratitude to the memory of this smart and energetic English admiral..." (2) The clouds that so often trail the summit tricked everyone, from the Tehuelches to Moreno, into thinking the peak was a volcano. It was not until 1899 that

236

Cerro Fitz Roy

German naturalist Rodolfo Hauthal visited the area and established that the peak was in fact granite. The first serious attempt to climb the mountain was by three distinguished Italian mountain guides, Ettore Castiglioni, Leo Dubose and Giovanni Gilberti. They were part of an expedition led by Count Aldo Bonacossa. ln early 1937 they reached the col just south of La Silla, subsequently known as "La Brecha de los ltalianos". They had intended to attempt the SW buttress, the line that much later became the Californiana. They had rightly thought that this line would provide less technical difficulty, but because they had stashed their crampons lower down, they were unable to continue beyond La Brecha. (3) Hans Zechner, an Argentine resident of Austrian origin, made two attempts to climb Cerro Fitz Roy, in 1948 and 1949, by the southwest and west faces. Aware of Bonacossa's team failure on the south face he decided to try the opposite side, in hopes of finding a more reasonable route. His first attempt was with Mario Bertone and Nestor Gianolini (4), the second with Rodolfo Dangl, Roberto Matzi and Agustine Lantschner. lt was Zechner who first "discovered" the Supercanaleta. (5) Guido Magnone and Lionel Terray (FR) made the first ascent of the peak in 1952. Southeast buttress Approach. Rio Blanco to Paso Superior (Sl) to La Brecha de los ltalianos (S2a, S2c) to La Silla (400m, 3 75o to that point, although the bergschrund can sometimes be overhanging). Descent. Rappel the Franco -Argentina. This route has been rappelled with a single 6o -meter rope, but it is not recommended. ln dry conditions and especially when there are other parties below you, make 30 -meter rappels down from La Brecha to minimize generating rock fall.

Ce rro Fitz Roy

S E buttress

237

Bibliography. Darwin C. (1845) The Voyage of the Beagle, Lon don, chapter g. 2 Moreno F. (1879) Viaje a Ia Patagon ia Austra l, 1876 a 1878, Bs.As. 3 CAl- RM 1938/ 10-11 p. 466- 475; CAl- RM 1946/3 - 4 p. 65-n; Bonacossa A. (1g8o) Una vita per Ia montagna, 1

Tamari 1 Bologna.

4

La Prensa newspaper, Buenos Aires 19/ 3/ 1948 p. 8-2 co lumns wjphotos; Anales de Ia Sociedad Cientffica Argentina, Septiembre 1948 Torno 146 p. 163-178; CAB-Anuario 1949, p. 5-14. 5 CAB- Anuario 1950 p. 14-26; Saint Loup (1949) Monts Pacifique, Arthaud, Paris.

F ITZ

Rov

GROUP

Bibliography. Alpinisme 99 p. 31-32; Alpinisme 100 p. 38- so, 72; La Montagne 1952/358 p. 58- 66; Paris Match 164, 3/5/1952; Terray L. (1961) Les conquerants de !'inutile, Gallimard, Paris (p. 488- so6); Azema M.A. (1954) La conquete du FitzRoy, Flammarion, Paris; Depasse L. (1953) AI Asalto del Fitz Roy, Ediciones Peuser, Buenos Aires;

CAB- Anuario 1953 p. 5 -n (Ibanez); Magnone G. (2005) Sculpteur de Cimes, Arthaud, Paris (p. 95 -121).

Cerro Fitz Roy SE

face.

238

Cerro Fitz Roy,. SE buttress

1

FRANCESA 650m, 55° 6a+ A3

250m

Guido Magnone- Lionel Terray

(FR), 2/1952. Description. Climbs the line of least resistance on the right side of the south buttress. With modern gear a more direct line can be climbed (see below). This route has not been climbed in its entirety since the first ascent. 71, 238, 244, T 239 History. Magnone and Terray's was the first ascent of the peak, completed with help from M. Azema, L. Depasse, R. Ferlet, L. Lliboutry and G. Strouve (FR), and F. lbaiiez (AR). After fixing rzo meters of rope above La Silla, Magnone and Terray completed the ascent in two days round trip. Although most of the credit for the first ascent went to the better-known Terray, it was actually Magnone who "put the hammer down" to make the climb happen. On day two, as clouds rolled in, Terray expressed doubts but Magnone begged him for a "couple more hours" and led on, climbing the last few pitches as fast as he could. They did not carry bivy gear and managed to move fast by leaving pitons behind, saving on the time it takes to remove them. Jacques Poincenot was also part of the expedition, but he died earlier while attempting to cross the Rio Fitz Roy. The original idea for the trip came from Ferlet, who had come across striking images of Cerro Fitz Roy in Alberto Maria De Agostini's book, Andes Patagonicos. Gear. Doubles to #3, TCUs, stoppers, 7-ro pitons.

13 1 SOm 6c

12 1 4Sm 4

ll l 60m 5+

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9 140m 6a

8 14Sm 5+

7130m 6b

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Cerro Fitz

SE buttress

239

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1.1 FRANCO-ARGENTINA LINK-UP 650m, sso 6c (6a Cl) Guido Magnone- Lionel Terray (FR), 2/1952; and Alberto Bendinger- Eduardo Brenner-Marcos Couch- Peter Friedrich (AR), 3/1984. 71, 238, 244, T 239

Description. The Franco- Argentina is the French route with a 200-meter long Argentine variation and is the "normal" route up Cerro Fitz Roy. It is the shortest and most direct line to the summit, although technically, when compared to the Californiana or Supercanaleta, not the easiest. Note that it can be dangerously crowded during periods of good weather. lt leaves the original French route after three pitches and rejoins it five pitches later. Although most parties climb left of a prominent prow up high, it is far easier to climb right, following the 1952line. There are many abandoned pieces of rope along the route, most from hanged rap pels. To avoid the same fate , try making many short rappels (see topo for detailed info). History. The Argentine team fixed ropes on the approach gullies and on the first 6o meters. ln 1985, during the second ascent, M. Graber, G. Rowell and D. Wilson (US) branched left two-thirds of the way up, following a slightly different line. Solo ascents. Miyazaki Motohiko (JP), 2/1994, rappelled with two other climbers; Christoph Hainz (IT), 12/1994, in nine hours from Rio Blanco to the top. Winter ascent. Paolo Crippa- Dario Sprefacio- Danilo Valsecchi (lT), 8/1988, second winter ascent of the peak. Female ascent. Silvia Fitzpatrick (AR), 1988. First female team ascent of the peak by Tina di Batista (Sl)- Monika Kambic (AR- Sl), 2004. Strategy. Most parties climb the route in a long day from the Paso Superior. Unplanned bivouacs are fairly common, but there are many decent bivy spots en route. Gear. Doubles to #3, one #4, 2 or 3 TCUs, stoppers. Bibliography. Desnivel 14 p. 48-sr. Rowell: AA) 1986 p. 97-!00 Southeast and east face Approach. Rio Blanco to Paso Superior to Glaciar Piedras Blancas Superior (S1).

240

Cerro Fitz Roy

SE & East face

2

LiNEA HERMANOS GALLEGO Miguel Angel & jose Luis Garda Gallego (ES), 3/1984.

Description. This line still awaits a continuous ascent. lt was climbed in three sections. The first 400 meters, climbed during a r982 attempt, were not reclimbed in r984. After the middle section the climbers retreated, and then gained their previous high point via fixed ropes previously placed along the Franco- Argentina. The route involved several pendulums and much aid climbing up to A4. The exact line followed by the Gallego brothers is unclear. 238, 244 History. M. Del Castillo and M. Gomez were also part of the r982 team.

Bibliography. Mountain 103 p. 20 · 23; AAJ 1985 p. 42- 48; Desnivel14 p. 22 -2].

3.1 Nott- Reichert attempt S. Nott-J. Reichert (US), I999, nine pitches to A4. They placed six belay bolts and one rivet, spending I5 days on the wall in a portal edge. This is one of Cerro Fitz Roy's 240 steepest lines. 3.2 Ackermann- Lerjen attempt 240 ]. Ackermann (AR)-M. Lerjen (CH), 2j20r2, eight pitches to 6c Al; 8/20I2, winter attempt adding four more pitches. 4

PILAR ESTE 1200m, 65° 6a A3 Casimiro Ferrari- Vittorio Meles (IT), 2/1976. 240,244

Description. This is a long and elegant line; astonishingly, it is still unrepeated. No detailed technical information exists about the climbing, other than the route line. There are two possible starts and the first ascent party climbed the right one. There are many abandoned fixed ropes, cable ladders and other gear in place. History. A French team led by B. Amy attempted it in r968, retreating after 500 meters (they climbed the left start). This was followed in I972 by an attempt from a Rovereto (IT) team led by A. Aste (they climbed the right start), and in I973 by another team from Monza (IT). ln early I974 a team including Toni Holdener, Hans Peter

Cerro Fitz Roy

East face

241

page 240 -4 Cerro Fitz Roy SE face and east pillar.

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Bibliography. French attempt: LMeiA 69 p. 314- 322. Rovereto attempt: Mountain 21 p. 7; RdM 47 p. 246; B SAT 1971/4 p. 143; B SAT 1972/1 p. 13-14; B SAT 1972/2 p. 52-56; Aste A. (1975) Pilastri del Cielo, Reverito, Trento, p. 240- 279; Aste A. (1988) Cuore di roccia, Manfrini Editori, Calliano (TN) p. 196-214. Swiss attempt: Mountain 38 p. 32-33. Italian ascent: Lo Scarpone 1976/ 6 p. 1, 6-7; AAJ 1977. p. 230 - 231.

Kasper, Ernst and Andrea Scherrer, and Robert Wenger (CH) climbed to within 200 meters of the summit, reaching the end of the major difficulties. Much of the credit for the first ascent goes to these Swiss. Two years later, using some of the fixed ropes and equipment left in place by the Swiss team, Ferrari and Meles completed the route. Their "Ragni di Lecco" team included G. Arrigoni, F. Baravalle, G. Cariboni, F. Castelnuovo, G. L. Lanfranchi, G. Pattarini, G. Stefanon and A. Valsecchi. Just as on Cerro Torre's west face it was Ferrari's persistence that led to success. When some of the members of the expedition decided to abandon the attempt, Ferrari and Meles pushed on, reaching the summit after six days on the wall. Not far from the top Ferrari took a big fall that sent a few of his teeth rattling down the wall. This was but a minor inconvenience to such a "hard man". ln February 2on, Nico Favresse and Sean Villanueva (BE) climbed the initial six pitches (free to 6c), then traversed right to El Coraz6n. They found copious amounts of equipment, including long cable ladders that made climbing unpleasant and awkward. Cable cutters will be necessary to remove these ladders. See El Coraz6n for more details on Favresse and Villanueva's impressive on-sight ascent. Descent. Franco- Argentina. 5

ROYAL FLUSH 950m, 40° 7b AO M Kurt Albert- Bernd Arnold- jorg Gerschel - Lutz Richter (DE), 2/1995, to El Coraz6n . ._PH 240, 244, 247, T 243

Bean Bowers and Sean Leary climbing the lower portion of Royal Flush.

Description. This is an impressive line, steep and difficult with rock of exceptional quality. Most of the 120 in-situ bolts are "convenience bolts" placed next to perfect cracks, with the objective of encouraging repeats. Unfortunately, the freeclimbing crux is often running with water. Three hundred meters below the summit the route joins El Coraz6n (1250m, 40° 7b Ao M altogether). History. The first ascent party used many fixed ropes and a power drill. The route was named Royal Flush after the best possible poker hand, as the first ascensionists

242

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considered that climbing in Patagonia "is a bit like gambling, and as in a poker game one needs a lot of luck, and to take some risks and invest big efforts to succeed." Free ascent. Albert came mighty close to a free ascent, top-roping the crux pitch (7c) and using aid only on a short mixed section. Integral ascent. Gunter G;:ilbe, Michael Schafroth and Rainer Treppte (DE) repeated the route to the summit in 2/1998. They fixed 450 meters of rope and took three days round trip on their final push. Alpine style. jimmy Hayden- Mike Pennings (US), 2008, in a 48- hour round trip from the Paso Superior. Strategy. In the last years repeats of this route have been done alpine style. Reasonable bivy spots exist on top of pitches 14 and 32.

244

Cerro Fitz Roy

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Gear. Doubles to #4, a few triples, one and a half set TCUs, stoppers. Descent. Rappel the route or the Franco- Argentina. 6

El CORAZON 1250m, 45° 6c A4 M - 7b (with variations) Kaspar Ochsner (CH)-M ichal Pitelka (CZ), 02/1992. 240, 244, 247, T 245

Bibliography. Le Alpi 2ej1993 p. 62 -72; AAJ 1993 p. 182-184; Alp 91 p. 20- 22; Alp 92 p. 28; High 122 p. 10-n; RdM 143 p. 10-12; Desnivel 73 p. 79-

The first pitch of the Casarotto route, showing the phenomenal cracks that split the Pilar Goretta.

Description. This is one of the very best rock climbs in the area. If the lower pitches are wet, it is possible to avoid them via the start of the Pilar Este or Royal Flush. The technical crux is the heart-shaped rock scar, after which the route is named. This involves bat- hooking. History. The first ascent party fixed ropes over a twomonth period. I. Bozic, Z. Gantar, ). Skok (SI) and I. Kafol (IT) attempted a line immediately right in r987, retreating after 350 meters. A year later W. Bafiales and j. Lazcano (ES) climbed four pitches further right. In February of 2on, Nico Favresse and Sean Villanueva (BE) avoided the wet lower third by following the Pilar Este, then traversing to El Coraz6n, completing an on-sight free ascent. They climbed and followed each pitch free. They started climbing at 7 a.m. and reached the top at n a.m. next day, stopping briefly to brew eight pitches from the top. The start along the Pilar Este involved climbing around 6b, with one section to 6c. They bypassed the crux aid section by traversing left across an unprotected slab just below (6b!). They used a single So-meter rope and descended via Royal Flush. Strategy. A competent party should be able to repeat the route in three days. There is a good bivy ledge at the top of pitch r6 and a decent one above pitch 27. Gear. Doubles to #4, some triples, double TCUs, stoppers, 8 pitons, 2 copperheads, hooks, I Peeker. Descent. Rappel the route or the Franco- Argentina. 7

page 247 Cerro Fitz Roy from the ENE.

LINEA DE ELEGANZA 1250m, 90° 7c (6c A2) M Horacio Codo-lucas Fava (AR) - Eiio Orlandi (IT), 02/2004. 244,247

246

Cerro Fitz Roy

East face

FITZ

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GROUP

Description. This is one of two free lines on the east face . The last 200 meters are in common with El Coraz6n, joining it and crossing left. There are many abandoned fixed ropes in the lower third. History. T. Hasegawa (Japan) and partners attempted this line in rg82, retreating after 400 meters. Orlandi made several attempts, the first with R. Larcher and F. Leoni in 200r. ln 2004 the three climbers, with help from F. Giacomelli, fixed 6oo meters of rope to an obvious ledge, where they set up a camp. They fixed more rope above, spending over seven days on the wall during the final ascent. Free ascent, alpine style. Tommy Caldwell- Top her DonahueErik Roed (USA) , 02j2oo6. ln two days, with the leader climbing on -sight every pitch (seconds on jumars). Strategy. There is a good ledge half way up, around pitch r6. Gear. Doubles to #3, one #4, TCUs, stoppers, RPs. Descent. Rappel the route or the Franco- Argentina. Francek Knez during the first ascent of Hudiceva Zajeda.

8

HUDICEVA ZAJEDA (Diedro del Diablo) 900m, 90° 6a A2

janez jeglic-Silvo Karo-Francek Knez (SI), 12/1983, to the Pilar Goretta col. 240, 247 252, T 249

Bibliography. Savenc F.-Krusic M. (1992)

Na vrhovih sveta, Zalozba MK, Ljubljana, p. 42- 43; PV 1985/ 3 p. 98 - 103; AAJ 1984 p. 216 - 219.

Slovene hardmanship at work during the first ascent of

History. This was the first of many successful Slovene expeditions to the area. lt was carried out with the help of S. Klemenc. They fixed ropes over several weeks. The name means Devil's Dihedral. C. Comesaiia and}. L. Fonrouge (AR) had attempted this line back in rg62. Descent. Rappel the Casarotto or the Franco -Argentina. Pilar Goretta The Pilar Goretta (Goretta Pillar) has a myriad of routes and variants that crisscross each other every which way and almost every crack system has been climbed. The Casarotto with the Kearney- Knight variation has become the preferred route from the east, while Mate, Porro y Todo lo Demas has become the preferred line from the west. Many parties choose to climb the Pilar Goretta without continuing to the summit, leaving boots and ice-gear at its base and enjoying some of the best rock climbing the area has to offer.

248

Cerro

Pi lar Goretta

350m 6c

Approach. Rio Blanco to Paso Superior to Glaciar Piedras Blancas Superior (S1). Strategy. There are good bivy spots at the Col del Bloque Empotrado and on top of the Pilar Goretta. Apart from the more difficult Diedro Directo all other routes can be climbed in two or three days round trip from the Paso Superior. Descent. Rappelling the route involves climbing back up to the summit of the Pilar Goretta (6om, 5+). Rappelling the Franco- Argentina is the faster option. Rappelling from the top of the pillar down the Casarotto route is fast and easy.

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Description. This is an extraordinary route; its length, rock quality and position make it one of the best climbs in the massif. Access is via the couloir leading to the Col del Bloque Empotrado at the base of the pillar (300m, 65° 3): if possible check out the bergschrund ahead of time and fix a rope over it if necessary. From the top of the Pilar Goretta make two 30-meter diagonal rappels to the SW to reach the saddle and the final headwall. The headwall is generally considered to be the crux of the climb. Old fixed rope remains in place, but generally the climb is fairly clean. History. Casarotto first attempted the route in 1978 with a large team from Morbegno, but retreated after

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Bibliography. 1978 attempt: CAl- RM 1978/7-8 p. 292. Casarotto: RdM 85 p. 58-67, p. 85; AAJ 1980 p. 383-386; Mountain 69 p. 15 -16; Mountain 95 p. 28- 33; AI pi Venete # autunnonatale 1979 p. 11-114; Casarotto R. and G. (1996) Una vita tra le montagne, De Agostini, Novara (p. 32-41); Traverso G. (2oo8) La Via della Montagna, Priuli&Verlucci, Torino, Italy (p. 77- 96).

climbing 550 meters. A year later he returned, and after being deserted by his partners decided to try alone, with the moral support of his wife Goretta, after whom the pillar is named. He fixed ropes to the top of the pillar. His was the first solo ascent of the peak and the only solo new route to date. Gear. Doubles to # 4, TCUs, stoppers. One #5 can be useful. 9.1

DIEDRO DIRECTO 450m, 5+ A3 Ben Gilmore-Brady Robinson (US), 2/2000.

Description. This is a difficult n- pitch variation to the Casarotto that starts 50 meters above the bergschrund. There are only three bolts in place, all at belays. History. Gilmore and Robinson fixed ro pitches over four days, then returned to climb to the summit in three days (1250m, 65° 6c A3 altogether). After their ascent they returned to retrieve all their fixed lines, leaving the route clean. ). Catto, P. Gallagher and M. Hesse (US) had attempted this line in early 1999, climbing the first seven pitches. 247, 252, T 252 Gear. Doubles to #4, double TCUs, stoppers, RPs, I0-15 pitons, Peekers, hooks. Bibliography. Catto: MJ 1999 p. 336. 9.2 KEARNEY-KNIGHT 300m, 6b+ Alan Kearney-Robert Knight (US), 12/1984.

Incredible climbing in the middle section of the KeaneyKnight variation to the Casarotto. Aguja Val Biois in the background.

Description. This superb variation to the Casarotto route has become the preferred line up the Pilar Goretta. History. The first ascent was made in alpine style over four days (1250m, 65° 6c altogether). Free ascent. Bean Bowers-josh Wharton (US), 2j20o6, in 15 hours from the bergschrund to the top, 24 hours round trip from the Paso Superior. Female ascent. Crystal Davis- Robbins (US), 2006. 247, 252, 259, 261, T 251 Gear. Same as for the Casarotto. Bibliography. Climbing 90 p. 36-43; MJ 1986 p. I01-ro9; Mountain Review 2 p. 46 - 53; Kearney A. (1993) Mountaineering in Patagonia, Cloud Cap, Seattle, p. 49-56.

250

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252

Cerro Fitz Roy

Pilar Goretta

9.3 CHIMICHURRI Y TORTAS FRITAS 450m, 6c+ Kurt Locher- Marco Pedrini (CH), 29/12/1985, to the top of the pillar. 252, 253, 259, T 251, 254

Description. The upper portion of this climb looks impressive, the climbing appearing much more difficult than Pedrini's grades suggest. It has yet to be repeated. Climb the Casarotto, then make a three-pitch variation to join the Kearney - Knight. After two more pitches head right, following an independent line to the top of the pillar (go om, 65° 6c+ ). The key to access the upper part of the route is to go straight up immediately after the obvious red vein "slab" pitch. History. Locher and Pedrini climbed to the top of the pillar in one day from the Paso Superior. While walking across the col below the headwall, Pedrini slipped and fell, dislocating his shoulder and forcing a retreat. The route name refers to typical Argentinean grub, chimichurri is a spicy sauce to accompany meat, while tortas fritas are fried bread. Gear. As for Casarotto. Pedrini's biggest piece was a #3 Friend! Bibliography. Mountain no p. 20- 23; AA] r987 p. ro3- ro8; Alp I2 p. r4; Desnivel 26 p. r3, p. 35 -39· 9.4 CRUX DEL SUR

150m + 250m, 6c Luciano Fiorenza (AR)-Sacha Gal (CH), 2/2012, to the top of the pillar. 252, 253, T 251 Description. Follow the Casarotto to Chimichurri y Tortas Fritas, and then climb four new pitches to connect with the Kearney- Knight. Higher, there are six more new pitches right of the Casarotto to reach the top of the Pilar Goretta (go om, 65° 6c altogether). History. The name refers to the obvious red rock veins that form a cross half way up the route. The first ascent party thought this would be the crux, but turned out not to be. Gear. Same as Casarotto, plus RPs.

Cerro Fitz

Pilar Goretta

253

page 252 Cerro Fitz Roy, Pilar Goretta from the NE.

F1Tz

Rov

GROUP

9.5 LINDBLADE-WHIMP

300m, 7a C1 Andrew Lindblade (AU) -Athol Whimp (NZ), 1/1994.

Description. This is another good way to climb the Pilar Goretta. Follow the Casarotto to Chimichurri y Tortas Fritas and continue until past the red vein. Traverse 40 meters down and right across a faint ledge to a left facing comer (6om, 6b+), which leads to a big ledge (good bivy spot). Follow an obvious system directly above (six pitches, 7a Al), joining Chimichurri two pitches below the top of the Pilar Goretta. Reach the summit via the Casarotto (n5om, 65° 7a Al altogether). 252, 253, T 254 History. The first ascent was made in alpine style over three days. In 2005 R. Sisemik, A. Tratnik and R. Zalokar (Sl) repeated this line. Believing at the time that Lindblade and Whimp had followed Chimichurri throughout, the Slovenes named their "new" variation Young jerkers. Gear. Doubles to #4, one #5, TCUs, stoppers, RPs. Bibliography. Wild 1994/w, p. 40-45.

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2008. 252, 253, T 251 Description. Yet another variant on the Pilar Goretta. Climb the Casarotto to the Kearney-Knight, continue to Chimichurri and follow this to the Lindblade- Whimp. At the big ledge walk west about 6o meters to a crack system just right of an arete, and

11 6a+ 10 6a

254

Cerro Fitz

Pilar Goretta

climb this in six to eight independent pitches to rejoin the Lindblade -Whimp, eventually finishing up Chimichurri to the top of the Pilar Goretta and continuing to the summit via the Casarotto (1250m, 65o 6c altogether). History. The first ascent party climbed alpine style, finishing over the summit. Gear. As for the Casarotto. Pilar Goretta. West face. Approach. Piedra del Fraile to Piedra Negra to Paso del Cuadrado to Glaciar Fitz Roy Norte (P3), then up easy snow (7oom, 45°). Descent. There are no fixed anchors on the routes listed below, so unless you want to leave a large portion of your rack, you will have to reach the top of the pillar and descend the Casarotto. From the Bloque Empotrado it is possible to rappel west back to the base (about six rappels). Strategy. lf you plan to climb only to the top of the pillar, you can leave boots, crampons etc. at the base. 9.7 ACCESO OESTE (Access from the west) 259, 261 lt is possible to reach the Casarotto or Kearney - Knight from the west. Although this seems like a good way to avoid the couloir leading to the Col del Bloque Empotrado, because the climbing is somewhat hard and slow it is not particularly recommended (3oom, 6c Ao). There are two lines that crisscross: K. Rutherford- M. Schaefer (US), 2006, from left to right into the Kearney - Knight; R. Garibotti (AR)-D. Pietron (DE), 2009, right to left into the Casarotto. lt is also possible to reach the Col del Bloque Empotrado from the west by climbing Mi Mundo de Contradicciones on the west face of Aguja Val Biois. 10

MATE, PORRO Y TODO LO DEMAS 900m, soo 6c Bean Bowers (US)- Rolando Garibotti (AR), 1/2008,

to the top of the pillar. 259, 261, 265 Description. This is a very enjoyable route, with excellent free climbing that is always interesting but never overly hard (only one Jo-meter section is 6c). The next cam placement is never more than a body length away.

Cerro Fitz

Pilar Goretta

face

255

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Luciana Tessie on the last pitches of Mate, Porro y Todo lo Demas. Cerro Piergiorgio in the background.

There is no fixed gear on the route. An alternative in the upper third is Gringos Perdidos, which might provide a more esthetic finish. From the top of the pillar you can continue via the Casarotto to the summit (r25om, 50° 6c altogether). History. The first ascent party took ro hours from base to top of the pillar. The route name was an attempt to keep up with Pedrini's nearby "argentinismo" (Chimichurri y Tortas Fritas). Integral ascent. Matjaz Dusic and Lovro Vrsnik (SI) climbed the route to the summit in 2j20n, linking it with the Casarotto, bivouacking 20 pitches up and reaching the summit at 9 p.m. on day two. Female ascent. Dorte Pietron (DE) - Luciana Tessio (AR), 2008, female team ascent. Strategy. Good bivy ledges around the r6th pitch and on top of the Pilar Goretta. Gear. Doubles to #4, 2 or 3 TCUs, stoppers. 11

12

page 259 ._ Cerro Fitz Roy, Pilar Goretta from the NW.

AL ABORDAJE!

900m, 6c C2+ Luciano Fiorenza- jimmy Heredia (AR)-Sergio Tartari (BR) 12/2010, to the top of the pillar. Description. In the middle and upper sections both climbing and rock are reputed to be of very high quality. 259, 261, 265 There are no fixed anchors. History. The route was climbed with two bivouacs on the way up and one on top of the pillar. The first ascensionists reckon that it could be climbed free . Gear. Doubles to #4, one #5, double TCUs, stoppers, RPs. POLACA

900m, soo 6a A2 Wieslaw Burzynski- Miroslaw Falco Dasa-Michal Kochanczyk-Jacek Kozaczkiewicz- Piotr Lutynski (PL), 12/1984. 259, 261, 265, T 260 Description. Generally the rock is good, but in the afternoon there is some stone fall danger from the summit snowfields. It joins the Casarotto at the col between the Pilar Goretta and final headwall, then continues up the Casarotto to the summit (r250m, 50° 6a A2 altogether). There are many abandoned fixed ropes.

258

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History. The first ascensionists spent eight days on the final push to the summit, after fixing Boo meters of rope. In I975 R. Staszewski and R. White (AU) made several alpine style attempts left of the Polish line, climbing seven pitches before retreating. North face The north face has a myriad of routes and variations that crisscross each other. The only independent line is Tehuelche. Climbing the lower part ofTehuelche to the upper part of El Flaco con Domingo and then joining the Afanassieff might be the most esthetic link -up on the face. Approach. Piedra del Fraile to Piedra Negra to Paso del Cuadrado to Glaciar Fitz Roy Norte (P3), then up easy snow (4oom to 700m depending on the route, 45°).

Cerro Fitz Roy

North face

261

Bibliography. Polish : Taternik 1985/ 1 p. 29- 31; AA} 1985 p. 240; GHM 1985 p. 16. Australians: AA} 1976, p. 504-505.

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Descent. The most straightforward descent is to rappel the upper part of the Afanassieff to the Francesa Cara Norte and then the lower half ofTehuelche. Strategy. The Gran Hotel is a great bivy spot. lf you plan to rappel the face, you can leave your bivy gear there and return to it after summiting. Light crampons might be needed to reach the summit from the end of the difficulties. FRANCESA CARA NORTE

lOOOm, 40° 6b+ A2+ jerome Arpin-Sylvain Empereur-Yannick Ponson- Lionel Pouzadoux (FR), 1/2002. 261, 262, 265, T 263

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Description. Crosses Tehuelche and joins the Afanassieff, 1250 meters altogether. History. The first ascent party spent six days working on the route, fixing around 8oo meters of rope. Gear. Arpin recommends taking a triple set of Camalots, double TCUs, stoppers, RPs, hooks, some copperheads and pitons. Descent. All belays are in place. 14

CLiNICA DE AVENTURA

300m + 400m, 30° 6c jorge Ackermann-Luciano Fiorenza-Matias Villavicencio (AR), 3/2010, to the NW ridge, 350 meters below the summit. 261, 262, 265

Description. Climbs nine new pitches to join the Francesa Cara Norte, which it follows for six pitches to reach the Gran Hotel. lt then climbs a 13 -pitch variation right of the Hoser Chimney (many wide cracks) to rejoin it on the NW ridge (go om, 30° 6c to this point). History. The first ascent was completed in alpine style over three days, the party retreating on reaching the NW ridge. A South African team first attempted the lower section in 1975. Gear. Doubles to #4, one #5, one #6, TCUs, stoppers. Descent. Down the Hoser then Tehuelche. 15

TEHUELCHE

BOOm, 30° 6b+ AO Carlo Barbolini-Massimo Boni-Mauro Petronio-Angelo Pozzi- Mauro Rontini -Marco Sterni (IT), l/1986 to 150 meters from the summit, without joining a pre -existing line. Doug Byerly (US)Rolando Garibotti (AR), 12/1996 to the summit. 261, 262, 265, T 267

page 265 Cerro Fitz Roy from the WNW.

Description. This is the obvious line on the north face. The lower half involves discontinuous cracks and several slabs, with a few short sections of rock that are not perfect. The upper dihedral, known as Diedro di Marco (after Sterni, who led most of it), is phenomenal. A free ascent of the route should be possible at around 7a. The first

264

Cerro Fitz Roy

North face

FITZ

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pitch above the Gran Hotel is a 6c off-width crack. lt is the only off-width on the climb. The r986 team abandoned all their fixed ropes but most have been cleaned over the last I5 years. History. Barbolini and partners fixed 900 meters of rope and reached the end of the difficulties but bad weather forced them to retreat. Sterni, who led the hardest sections, was only 2I years old at the time. He led the crux off-width pitch with a single #3 Friend and halfway up, with one shoulder and one foot stuck in the crack, barely holding on, was able to place a bolt, the only protection bolt on the entire route. First complete ascent and alpine style. Byerly and Garibotti completed the route in a threeday round trip from Polacos. Gear. Doubles to #4, one each #5 and #6, TCUs, stoppers. Descent. Rappel the route. Bibliography. Barbolini: Alp 20 p. 38-49; AAJ r987 p. 2ro-2r2; Lo Scarpone r986jro p. ro-rr. Byerly: AAJ I997 p. II7-I22. 15.1 THE HOSER CHIMNEY 400m, 6a MS Dana Drummond-Freddie Wilkinson (US), 2008.

Description. When combined with the lower part of Tehuelche, this is likely the easiest line up the north face. From the Gran Hotel climb a left-facing corner on the right side of a "stem box" leading to a roof. Then follow a chimney system that has a tricky M5 chock-stone pitch near the top, right below the ridge. After ro new pitches it joins the Afanassieff, which is followed to the summit (r3oom, 30° 6b Al M5 altogether). 261, 262, T 269 History. The first ascent party climbed the lower half of Tehuelche and made a single bivy four pitches below the summit, which they reached at 9:30a.m. on day two. Gear. Doubles to #4, TCUs, stoppers. The first ascent party managed to climb the mixed section high on the route with aluminum crampons and one light axe, but taking steel crampons and two tools, as well as two ice-screws, might be a wise choice. Descent. Rappel the Afanassieff to the Francesa Cara Norte and finally Tehuelche.

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LOS ULTIMOS DfAS DEL PARAfSO 750m, 30° 6c A2 Tomaz Jakofcic-Grega Lacen (SI), 2007.

Description. For seven pitches this route follows slabs to the right of an ice-chocked corner/chimney. The rock in this section is rather poor (sandy and loose). At the end of the corner the angle eases and for several hundred meters the climbing is easy. Above, climb slabs immediately left of the Afanassieff (ro pitches, 6a A2), before joining it and continuing to the summit (rsoom, 30° 6c A2 altogether). History. The first ascent was made in alpine style in a 38- hour push. The climb was dedicated to Ozbej Povsod, 265, 276 a close friend who died in 2006. Gear. Doubles to #3, one #4, TCUs, stoppers, 3-5 pitons. 17

EL FLACO CON DOMINGO 450m + 400m, 30° 6c Crystal Davis-Robbins-Max Hasson (US), 1/2008. 261, 262, 265, T 269

Description. Climbs two variations between existing routes, covering 8so meters of new terrain. The lower half follows discontinuous cracks and slabs with a number of unprotected sections, crossing Los Ultimos Dias del Paraiso to join Tehuelche. The latter is followed to the Gran Hotel. From there it climbs a superb line to the NW ridge, where the Afanassieff is followed to the summit (r6som, 30° 6c altogether). History. Davis -Robbins and Hasson climbed alpine style, with the leader climbing every pitch free and on- sight. They spent one night at the Gran Hotel and a second during the rappel descent from the summit via Tehuelche. Gear. Doubles to #4, double TCUs, stoppers. Descent. Rappel the Afanassieff to the Francesa Cara Norte and finally Tehuelche. Aguilar- Banderet- Maille fer attempt. ln 1985 M. Aguilar (AR), V. Banderet and P. Maillefer (CH) started at the very bottom of the north face and climbed alpine style over two days to reach a point just shy of the Gran Hotel. A dropped pack forced retreat after climbing 700m. 265 18

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Northwest ridge Approach. Piedra del Fraile to Piedra Negra to Paso del Cuadrado to Glaciar Fitz Roy Norte (P3), to the base of Supercanaleta, then up easy snow on the left (45°). Three hours from Piedra Negra. Descent. Because the line is slanting and low angle, descending the route is difficult and should not be considered an option. Descend the Franco- Argentina or rappel the upper part of the Afanassieff to the Francesa Cara Norte and finally Tehuelche. 19

FILO NOROESTE - AFANASSIEFF

1550m, 30° 6a+ Guy Abert-jean & Michel Afanassieff-Jean Fabre-Gilles Sourice (FR), 12/1979. 265, 273, 276, T 271 Bibliography. AeR 18 p. 21- 25; AAJ 1981 p. 238; LMeiA 1980/2 p. 286-293-

The central slabs of the Afanassieff

Description. This is one of the longest routes on Cerro Fitz Roy. It is a great alpine experience, with much easy terrain and rock that isn't as good as on other routes. The crux is a wide slot/crack at about half height. This is climbed on the outside (a few pitons in place). There are abandoned fixed ropes on the first few pitches, but none after that. History. The first ascent party fixed 300 meters of rope and then climbed alpine style, reaching the summit on day four. The descent in bad weather required two days. Jean and Guy had attempted this line in I976 with P. Bodin. Female ascent. Paula Alegre (AR), 2009. Dorte Pietron (DE)-Milena Gomez (AR), 20ro, second all female team ascent of Cerro Fitz Roy. Strategy. The route has been repeated many times, with parties taking between 24 hours to four days to climb it. Gear. Doubles to #2, one #3, 2 or 3 TCUs, stoppers. 19.1 LE CHERCHEUR D'ABSOLU

600m, 7a C2 Aymeric Clouet-Christophe Dumarest (FR), 1/2008. 265,273

Description. This difficult variation climbs a steep pillar (450m, 7a A2), traversing left (rsom, 6a) to join the Afanassieff (r6oom, 7a A2 altogether).

270

Cerro Fitz

NW ridge

History. Clouet and Dumarest fixed their two climbing ropes the evening before starting the climb and then climbed to the summit in two days. Gear. Doubles to #3, one #4 and #5, double TCUs, stoppers, RPs.

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19.2 Barbier- Fabbri- Huet- Keller attempt 273

N. Fabbri, ). Huet and P. Keller (FR) first climbed the lower pillar of Le Chercheur d'Absolu in 2003 and again in 2004 with V. Barbier (FR). Instead of traversing left onto the Afanassieff, they attempted a direct line up the ridge crest, but were turned back after 8oo meters. The second pillar involved difficulties to Ms, A2 and 6b+. Above, five small towers (rom each) led to three bigger towers. They retreated from below the third tower, having placed a total ofro bolts.

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page 273 ._ Cerro Fitz Roy west face.

._ West face Approach. Piedra del Fraile to Piedra Negra to Paso del Cuadrado to Glaciar Fitz Roy Norte (P3). Three hours from Piedra Negra. 20

SUPERCANALETA

1600m, BOo 5+ Carlos Comesana- Jose luis Fonrouge (AR), 1/1965. .. PH 265, 276, T 275 Bibliography. Comesana: CAB- Anuario 1967 p. 25-31; AAJ 1965 P· 457- 458; AAJ 1966 p. 75- 8o; La Montana 7 p. 14 -15; LMeiA 53 p. 101; Alpinism us 1965/7 p. 14- 17; GHM 1965 p. 3-4, p. 36; Fonrouge ). L. (1999) Horizontes Verticales e n Ia Patagonia, El Elefante Blanco, Buenos Aires (p. 89-106). Botazzi: Vea y Lea 401, p. 33- 40; CAB- Anuario 1963 p. 44-45; CAB-Anuario 1967 p. 19-26. De Ia Cruz : CAB- Revista 15 p. 28-29,40-41, 52-53·

Jose Luis Fonrouge on the summit of Cerro Fitz Roy after the second ascent of the peak in 1965.

Description. This is a phenomenal climb. It involves a little bit of everything (ice, mixed and rock), and although technically the easiest climb on the peak, due to the length it is a serious undertaking. A rooo-meter ice gully leads to I9 pitches of moderate rock and mixed climbing. The crux is in the last roo meters and involves a thin crack and a steep corner, with difficulties to s+. The climb is reasonably clean, with only few, very short pieces of abandoned rope. In 2002 Frank Van Herreghewe died when he fell into the Supercanaleta, his body becoming lodged in the vicinity of the Bloque Empotrado. There were several unsuccessful attempts to retrieve him. Usually his body is covered by ice. History. The first ascent was completed in alpine style, an impressive feat for the time. It was the second ascent of the mountain. The two climbers were part of a bigger expedition that included M. Donovan, A. Misson and). Ruiz Luque. C. Botazzi, T. Sifuentes, A. Weber and 0. Weisskopft, first attempted the line in the winter of r962, with Botazzi and Weisskopf making another attempt two years later. On both occasions they reached the area of the Bloque Empotrado. Winter ascent. Sebastian De La Cruz and Gabriel Ruiz, with Eduardo Brenner (AR), 6/r986. De La Cruz and Ruiz suffered severe frostbite, with Ruiz requiring amputation. Brenner waited for his companions at the end of the difficulties and did not reach the summit. This was the first winter ascent of the peak. Since then, the route has seen three or four winter ascents. Female and winter ascent. Erica Beuzenberg (NZ) in I993- This was the first female ascent of the route and while there have been many others since, none have taken place in winter. Solo ascents. Dean Potter (US), 2002 in 6:30 hours; Colin

272

Cerro Fitz Roy .. West face

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Haley (US) 2009. Supposed. ln early 2000, having just been freed from a Bolivian jail, Alain Mesili (FR) claimed that back in 1970 he had climbed a new route parallel to the Supercanaleta with a Spanish climber named Ricardo Arzela. lt is possible that Mesili was simply pulling the leg of his interviewer, or time in jail had sparked his imagination. Mesili is an extremely colorful character and someone should write a book about his life's adventures. Strategy. A competent party should be able to climb to the summit in n to 16 hours and rappel the same day, into the night. lt is best to reach the Bloque Empotrado in daylight for easier route finding. Gear. Doubles to #I, one each to #3, stoppers, 3 ice-screws. Descent. The preferred descent route is the Franco -Argentina, but descending the Supercanaleta is just as fast. The rappel line starts at the notch between the SW ridge and the summit slopes. 20.1 DIRECTA 250m, 6a A2, Franco Demarchi-Mose Mercolli (CH), 265, T 275 1987.

Straight up from the Bloque Empotrado. 20.2 NO BRAIN, NO PAIN 400m, 6b Claudio lnselvini (IT)-Michael Lerjen (CH), 11/2007,

to the summit slopes. 273, 276

section of the fantastic Supercanaleta. Page 275 Weaving through the upper ridge of Supercanaleta.

Description. Climb the Supercanaleta to the base of the Bloque Empotrado, then traverse horizontally right across easy slabs (200 m), crossing Ensueiio, and then climbing close to the ridge to join Tonta Suerte and the Supercanaleta (16oom, 6so 6b altogether). This variation could provide a direct and elegant finish to Ensueiio. History. The first ascent party climbed this variation by mistake: the climbers believing they were on the Supercanaleta. Gear. Same as for Supercanaleta plus some TCUs.

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ENSUENO BOOm, 45° 6b+ Mauro Girardi - Lorenzo NadaliAndrea Sarchi (IT), 1/1995. 265, 273, 276, T 275

Description. This is a very long and varied route, with good crack and slab climbing. Although in some sections the rock is not perfect, it is a very worthwhile freeclimb for its grade. Several pitches involve mandatory freeclimbing to 6b+. Most belays are in place. lt is possible to climb up and right on the easy slabs at half height, following No Brain No Pain to Tonta Suerte and finally the Supercanaleta. This might be a more elegant finish than the original. lt joins the Supercanaleta eight pitches below the summit slopes (I6oom, 45° 6b+ altogether). ln the lower third there are a few fixed ropes abandoned by the first ascent team, but otherwise the climb is clean. History. The first ascent party fixed 250 meters of rope and then completed the climb in five days. On one of the crux pitches they used a fixed rope left in place during Sarchi's prior attempt in 1993 with P. Dal Pra. Alpine style. Rok Blagus- Tomaz jakofi.'ii.' - Miha Valii.' (Sl), 2006, in two days. Female ascent. Di.irte Pietron (DE),

2011.

Strategy. There are good bivy ledges on top of the 3rd ("Primi Passi bivi") and 15th ("Mezzocorona bivi") pitches. On a recent repeat the party walked from town and started to climb the same day, reaching pitch Cerro Fitz Roy upper west ridge from the north .

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Bibliography. Alp 126 p. 24- 28; AAJ 1995 p. 211; AAJ 1996 p.u-18; CA I-RM 1995/6 p. 6o- 61.

15 before dark. Starting the climb late allows the crux pitches to be climbed in the warmth of the afternoon. A competent party should be able to complete the route in a two-day round trip. Because the route is relatively low angle, it is best for the follower to climb instead of jumar (it is also way more fun!). Gear. Doubles to #3, TCUs (some doubles), stoppers. Descent. Rappel the Franco- Argentina. 22

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HISTORIA SIN FIN 850m, 40° 6b+ Jorge Ackermann -Tomas Aguilo - Luciano Fiorenza (AR), 2/2010. 265, 273, 276

Description. This is a phenomenally long and beautiful all free line. Start right of the obvious prow right of Supercanaleta. Climb six pitches up and left to join Ensueiio and reach a big ledge. Now climb the left of an obvious double crack system to reach easy slabs. These lead to steeper ground and a thin crack left of a shallow scoop. Thirteen pitches above the ledge the difficulties ease and the route joins No Brain No Pain and later Tonta Suerte and the Supercanaleta (16oom, 40° 6b+ altogether). One belay bolt in place. History. The route was climbed in alpine style over three days: the first from El Chalten to the big ledge six pitches up; the second to the junction with No Brain No Pain; and the third to reach the summit and descend. Gear. Doubles to #3, TCUs (some doubles), stoppers. Descent. Rappel the Franco- Argentina. Southwest face 23

Bibliography. Galfy: AAJ 1983 p. 210- 2n; AAJ 1984 p. 68 -74; Mountain 95 p. 20-25; Desnivel15 p. 34-41; Alpin #ll, Nov 1983, p. 32-35. Rouse: Mountain 58 p. 18- 21; AAJ 1978 p. 581- 583; Climbing 47 p. 5- u.

ESLOVACA 900m, 40° 6c Robert Galfy - Michal Orolfn- Vladimir Petrik (SK), 1/1983. 265, 273, 280, 283, T 275, 279, 282

Description. This is a grand alpine route, long but not too hard. Although only seven pitches are harder than 6a, some are not trivial. The technical crux is a three-pitch corner in the lower third. The route joins the Californiana at its fifth belay, then continues via this and

278

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the Supercanaleta to the summit (1400m altogether). If started from the Glaciar Torre (approach N8a) the elevation gain (21oom) is higher than on any face in the area. There are many fixed ropes, left in place by the first ascent team. History. After an unsuccessful attempt in 1982 from the Torre Valley, Galfy, Orolin and Petrik returned the following season to complete the ascent, approaching the route from the base of Supercanaleta (shorter and easier). Over several weeks they fixed ropes to within four pitches of the junction with the Californiana. Zdenek Brabec was injured by rock fall and could not take part in the final attempt. R. Carrington and A. Rouse (GB) attempted this line alpine style from the Torre Valley in 1977. They retreated from the top of the crux dihedral. Alpine Style. Rolando Garibotti (AR)- Silvo Karo (Sl), 1999, from the Glaciar Torre, in 30 hours, with one bivy at the junction with Supercanaleta. Free ascent. Bean Bowers (US)- Ben Brans by (GB) -Jvan Tresch (CH), 2004, from the Glaciar Torre, with one bivy on top of the Filo del Hombre Sentado. Approach. From the base of Supercanaleta easy snow leads to a short scramble. Starting from the Torre Valley, head to De Agostini, then to Niponino, and continue up the glacier to the rightmost Filo del Hombre Sentado approach (N8a). Gear. Doubles to #3, one #4, TCUs, stoppers. Descent. Rappel the Franco- Argentina.

Cerro Fitz Roy

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279

24

TONTA SUERTE 600m, 6c Cl

Nathan Martin-Tim O'Neill (US), 2002. 273, 276, 279, T 275

Description. Follows the lower portion of the Eslovaca to the top of the dihedral, from where it continues straight up, climbing steep corners to gain the west ridge. lt eventually joins the Supercanaleta and continues up this to the summit (1400m, 40° 6c Al altogether). Seventeen new pitches. History. Starting from the top of the Filo del Hombre Sentado, Martin and O'Neill completed the route in a 57-hour round trip, with one bivy on the west ridge. Previously a number of strong teams had attempted this line. The name of the route refers to several episodes during the climb, where luck played a role. On one occasion a stop to smoke a cigarette saved them from being crushed by rock fall. Approach. Same as for the Eslovaca. Gear. Doubles to #5, one #6, TCUs, stoppers. Descent. The first ascensionists rappelled the Supercanaleta, but it is best to descend the Franco- Argentina . ., South face Approach. Rio Blanco to Paso Superior (Sl) to La Brecha de los ltalianos (S2a, S2c) to La Silla (400m, 75o 3 to that point, although the bergschrund can occasionally be overhanging). For the Californiana and Washington Route traverse from La Silla to the Col de los Americanos (6oo) and then climb to La Silla Americana (6om, 4). This traverse can often have long sections of black ice, so be sure to wear steel crampons. Descent. Rappel the Franco- Argentina.

page 279 Cerro Fitz Roy SW face. page 280 Cerro Fitz Roy SW face.

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CALIFORNIANA 400m, 40° 6a+ Yvon Chouinard- Dick Dorworth- Lito Tejada Flores- Doug Tompkins (US)Chris jones (GB), 12/1968. Description. Along with the Su-

percanaleta this is technically the easiest route up the peak. The rock is quite good but there is nothing special about the climbing. However, the setting, hanging way above the Torre Valley, makes it worthwhile. Since most parties choose the more direct Franco -Argentina, climbing this route is quite often a solitary experience. There are a great number of possible variations, all at about the same level of difficulty. lt meets the Supercanaleta at the west ridge, then follows it to the summit (6som, 40° 6a+ from La Silla Americana to the summit). The route to the Col de los Americanos passes abandoned fixed ropes but the rest of the climb is reasonably 71, 276, 280, 283 T 275, 282 clean. History. The first ascensionists fixed ropes to La Brecha, where in a welloutfitted snow cave they spent over 35 days waiting for a break in the weather. When this came, they raced up the route in a 23-hour round trip. They began the adventure in California, driving south in a van and stopping at a number of places across South America to surf and ski. The first ascensionists did not name the route and although they were neither all from California nor all from the US it has been called both

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the Californian and the American route . Affectionately they called their expedition the Fun Hog Expedition, so the route has also been called The Fun Hog route. Solo ascents. Yves Astier (FR), rg8s, claimed to have climbed

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Bibliography. First ascent: AAJ 1969 p. 263- 269; A) 1969 p. 130-132, p. 274- 275; Summit 1969/8 p. 2-7; Mountain 3 p. 9-15; CAB- Anuario 1979 p. 67-69; Chouinard Y. (1978) Climbing Ice, Sierra Club Books (p. 170 -171) . Bubendorfer: Mountain ll4 p. 12; Bubendorfer T. (1987) Solo, M. Lechner Verlag, Wien; Bubendorfer T. (1986) Mount FitzRoy- Die Qualitat des nachsten Schrittes, Verlag Orac, Wien. Astier: AAJ 1987 p. 212; Montagnes 8o p. 8. Yamanoi: lwa To Yuki 143 p. 8-15; GHM 1990 p. 53; AAJ 1991 p. 198.

to the end of the difficulties, although inconsistencies have cast doubt; Thomas Bubendorfer (AT), 1986, in ]:30 hours from the col, in a 23-hour round trip from Rio Blanco; Miroslaw Smid (CZ), 2/1990; Dean Potter (US) 2001, in 9:50 hours from Polacos via the Couloir Poincenot ("Californian Roulette"). Solo and winter ascent. Yasushi Yamanoi (JP), 7/1990, in a three-day round trip from Rio Blanco. Female ascent. In 1978 Romy Druschke (ZA) made the first female ascent of the peak via this route. Other female ascents since. Strategy. A competent party should be able to climb the route in one day from the Paso Superior, or even starting from the west side of Laguna de los Tres. Gear. Doubles to #3, one #4, stoppers, 2-3 ice-screws. THE WASHINGTON ROUTE

SOOm, 45° 6b+ Cl Kate Rutherford- Mikey Schaefer (US), 02/2011.

Description. The first ascent party bivouacked at La Silla Americana and in the morning rappelled into their line. However, a party coming from La Silla should be able to climb directly into the line. For w pitches it follows a large west-facing corner, after which it heads right for two

Cerro Fitz Roy south face.

284

Cerro Fitz Roy

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pitches, before reaching easy terrain and existing routes 71, 283, 284 leading to the summit (6som altogether). History. The first ascent was done alpine style and without jumars. Rutherford and Schaefer bivouacked twice (at La Silla Americana and at the summit) and reckon that the route will go free at 6c+. Gear. Doubles to #4, stoppers, TCUs, 2-3 ice-screws. 27

THE CANADIAN ROUTE 500m, 45° 6b Cl Paul McSorley- jon Walsh (CA), l/2005.

Description. Walsh strongly recommends this route, arguing that it is very good, much cleaner and sustained than the Franco- Argentina, with none of the fixed ropes

Cerro Fitz Roy south face.

Cerro Fitz Roy

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and poorly equalized fixed anchors that characterize that route. He estimates that the route could be climbed free at around 7b. The best pitch is a superb 6o- meter enduro corner that goes free at about 6c. At the summit slopes it joins existing routes leading to the summit (6som altogether) . .-PH 284, 285 History. McSorley and Walsh started climbing at I p.m. and reached the summit by noon the following day. Finding much ice in the cracks, they had to aid many sections. A few weeks later A. Martin and). Schmitz (US) repeated the route in a 36-hour round trip from Rio Blanco (7 hours from bergschrund to summit). Finding less ice, they managed to free climb 85% of the route at less than 6b. Gear. Doubles to #3, one #4, TCUs, stoppers, 2-3 ice- screws. 28

Bibliography. Matevz Lenarcic (1988) Smisel in spoznanje - Pa-

tagonija, Obzorja Maribor, Slovenija; Planinski vestnik 1986/8 p. 363; AAJ 1987, p. 109-113.

BORIS SIMONCIC 500m, 45° 6a C2 Bogdan Biscak-Rado Fabjan-Matevz Lenarcic (SI), 12/1985 . ._PH 71, 284, 285 Description. At the summit slopes it joins existing routes

leading to the summit (6som altogether). History. The first ascensionists fixed 300 meters of rope and then completed the route in a 44 -hour round trip from base camp. The route is named after Boris SimonCic, who attempted Cerro Fitz Roy with Lenarcic the previous year and fell to his death on Les Courtes shortly afterwards. Alpine style. Damyan Cholpanov, Nikola Levakov and Grigor Vatev (BG), OI/2012. Gear. Doubles to #4, TCUs, stoppers, RPs, 3-4 ice -screws (the required pitons are in place). 29

ANGLO-AMERICANA 550m, 45o 6a A3 Julian "Mo" Anthonie-Eddie Birch-Guy Lee-Dave Nicol - lan Wade (GB)-Larry Derby (US), 12/1972. Description. This route starts immediately left of the

Francesa. After two pitches on the SE side it moves onto the south face to follow an obvious wide crack. This crack is 20 to 50 em wide and in its upper part is filled with ice, meaning a secondary very thin crack has to be aided

286

Cerro Fitz Roy ._South face

(copperheads and bat-hooks to a jammed block). Another 20 meters of exposed off- width climbing lead to easier terrain and a snowfield. A series of ice runnels then lead to an obvious break under overhangs. Here the route traverses left, across loose, iced-up terrain to a bomb -bay chimney, which is avoided by climbing hairline cracks on the right. Finally, a mixed traverse left leads to the summit slopes. 71, 284, 285 History. The route was completed with the use of fixed ropes. This was the fourth ascent of the peak. Bibliography. AA) 1973 p. 477; Mountain 28 p. 18-21; Rucksack Club journal 1973/65 p. I - 16. TRAVERSES AND LINK-UPS

Aguja Guillaumet, Aguja Mermoz and Cerro FitzRoy 30 TRAVESfA CARE BEAR · 1950m, 60° 6c Dana Drummond-Freddie Wilkinson (US), 2008. 209, 217, 223, 225, 227, 234, 247, 252, 261, T 251

Description. This is a very long and fun climb. lt has it all, with great views, great rock and a lot of fine climbing. lt requires good route finding skills and a lot of alpine trickery. Climb Aguja Guillaumet via the Brenner- Moschioni (350m, 6b) and continue along the Cresta Sur Traverse (worn, 45° 4+), descending (200m) to reach the Argentine route on Aguja Mermoz and then following it to the summit (3oom, 6a). The route so far is called the Motocross Traverse and was first climbed in n:30 hours by Klemen Mali and Rok Sisemik (Sl) in 2006. From here continue along the ridge, over a number of small towers - many rappels and much alpine trickery - to reach Aguja Val

Agujas Guillaumet, Mermoz and Cerro Fitz Roy from the west.

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page 289 Cerro Fitz Roy and Agujas Desmochada and De Ia Silla from the south. Climbing across the south ridge of Aguja Mermoz during an ascent ofTravesfa Care Bear. The summits of Pilar Goretta and Fitz Roy in the background.

Biois, which is passed on the west side without tagging the summit (3oom, to 6a). From the Col del Bloque Empotrado the first ascensionists climbed the Casarotto/ Kearney - KnightjCasarotto link-up to the summit of Cerro FitzRoy (go om, 6c), rappelling the Casarotto. Repeat ascents climbed the CasarottojKearney - Knight/ Lindblade -WhimpjMate- Porro/Casarotto link-up and descended the Franco- Argentina. History. The first ascent was completed in three days, with one bivy on top of Mermoz, a second on the south ridge of Val Biois, and a nighttime descent from the summit. This traverse has been repeated three times, all taking roughly the same amount of time. Strategy. Good conditions, with little snow and ice, are a must. One of the repeat ascents climbed in one day from Piedra Negra to the Col del Bloque Empotrado. There are plenty of good bivy ledges everywhere. Approach. See the Brenner - Moschioni. Gear. Doubles to #4, 2 or 3 TCUs, stoppers, 15 meters of cord (for rappel anchors). Aguja Desmochada, Aguja de la Silla and Cerro FitzRoy THE WAVE EFFECT LINK-UP

1900m, 40° 7b+ Whit Magro- Nate Opp-josh Wharton (US), 2/2011. 283, 284, 291, 292, 295, 300, T 282, 294, 297

Description. This is a hard, long and involved link-up, connecting Aguja Desmochada, Aguja de la Silla and Cerro Fitz Roy. The first ascensionists climbed Aguja Desmochada via the Brass Parrot link-up (see Golden Eagle), a 7b+ link-up of El Condor to Golden Eagle to The Sound and the Fury, a new route on Aguja de la Silla christened The Vertical Current, and finished up the Californiana on Cerro Fitz Roy. History. The first ascent was done alpine style over four days and was a team free ascent (leader climbs free with seconds jumaring or following). The first ascensionists dedicate the climb to Bean Bowers, a long time "patagonico" who died of cancer a few months later. The original idea had been Bean's.

288

Cerro

Traverses and link-ups

Strategy. Much of the climbing is on south facing walls that get little to no sun, so attempts should only be made in periods of warm weather. Depending on conditions, the ice slope between Aguja Desmochada and Aguja de la Silla might require steel crampons, two tools and at least two ice-screws. There are good bivy spots at the base of Aguja Desmochada, descending from Aguja Desmochada, and at La Silla Americana. Potential. These three towers offer a lot of linking potential. A "Wave Effect on steroids" could follow the "line of most resistance" climbing the Brass Parrot to El Bastardo to The Washington Route, tackling the steepest sections of each of the faces . Approach. See Golden Eagle. Gear. Doubles to #4, some triples, TCUs, stoppers, 2 ice-screws. Descent. Rappel the Franco- Argentina. Aguja Mermoz NW ridge, Pilar Goretta, Cerro FitzRoy THE NORTH PILLAR SIT-START LINK-UP

1900m, 6cCl Scott Bennett-Cheyne Lempe (US), Ol/2012. 223, 228, 234, 247, 252, 261, 287, T 229, 251

Description. This is one of the longest link- ups in the massif, "a line of strength". The first ascent party climbed a soo-meter variation to the Filo Noroeste route on Aguja Mermoz, then followed it to the Mermoz-Val Biois ridge, joining the Care Bear traverse to reach the base of the Pilar Goretta. They then climbed the Casarotto with the Kearney- Knight variation to the summit. History. The first ascent was completed in alpine style, bivouacking half way up Aguja Mermoz's Filo Noroeste, at the base of Aguja Val Biois, and at the col between the Pilar Goretta and upper headwall. Strategy. Be light, be fit, be fast. Dry conditions would be highly beneficial. Approach. As for the NW ridge of Aguja Mermoz. Gear. Doubles to #4, TCUs, stoppers. At times aluminum crampons and a small ice-tool could suffice. Descent. Rappel the Franco- Argentina.

Cerro Fitz Roy

Traverses and link· ups

289

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AGUJA DE LA SILLA (ca. 2900 m). Aguja de la Silla remained unclimbed until rg8g, when Peter Luthi ticked yet another first ascent in the massif. The west face is an imposing big wall that still awaits an ascent. El Bastardo and Destreza Criolla appear to be well worth repeating in spite of their complicated approaches. Luis Lliboutry was responsible for the name, although his expedition partners, members of the I952 French Fitz Roy team, half jokingly called it Pointe du Cineaste (filmmaker's point), because they thought that the expedition's filmmaker, Georges Strouve, would have loved to have sat on top to make the film of his life . ._ 1

East ridge FILO ESTE 250m, 6a C1 Horacio Bresba (AR)-Peter Li.ithi (CH), 2/1989. Description. From the Col de los Americanos climb solid, ice - free cracks on the north face for 50 meters to a recess on the ridge. Stay on the south side of the crest all the way to the twin summit blocks (three pitches), then climb the second, higher block via a wide crack on its south side (6a+) . .,PH 71,284,291,292 History. This was the first ascent route. Luthi also made the first ascents of Aguja Bifida and the south summit of Aguja Guillaumet. Approach. Rio Blanco to Paso Superior (Sl) to La Brecha de los ltalianos (S2a, S2c), then up toward La Silla and across to the Col de los Americanos (6o Gear. Doubles to #3, one #4, stoppers. Descent. Rappel the route. Bibliography. CAB - Revista I989/2I p. 32 - 34; AAJ rggo p. 206 . 0

) .

._ 2

Northwest arete DESTREZA CRIOLLA SOOm, 6b+ Luciano Fiorenza-jonathan Jorzuk-Diego Simari (AR), 03/2012 . ., PH 280, 291, T 290 Description. A beautiful line up the NW arete but the approach is serious, with some loose rock.

290

Aguja de Ia Silla

History. C. Davis-Robbins and N. Gutierrez were the first to attempt this line, in 2009. The first ascensionists bivouacked at the base of the arete (good ledge), then completed the climb in one day. The name refers to the wild- horse riding rodeo that happens yearly in El Chalten. Approach. Piedra del Fraile to Paso del Cuadrado to Glaciar FitzRoy Norte (P3) and the base ofSupercanaleta, then up to the crest of the Filo del Hombre Sentado. Now move onto the south side of the ridge and traverse right to a diagonal line just left of a double-crack system (300m, 3-4, with sections of s+, some loose rock) and reach the base of the route . Gear. Doubles to #3, one #4, TCUs, stoppers. Descent. Rappel the route and reverse the approach. West, south and SE face Approach. De Agostini to Niponino, then up to the Col Puerta Blanca (N7). lt is also possible to approach the south face via the Couloir Poincenot (N6a, N6b, N6c), see variation 8.r to the Puerta Blanca route on Aguja Desmochada. 3 Bonapace attempts The west face of Aguja de la Silla will in time yield impressive routes. Tommy Bonapace (AT) made two alpine style attempts, one in I995 with Toni Ponholzer (eight days, 23 pitches to 450m from the top) and another in 2000 with Christian Zenz (eight days, to 300m from the top). To reach the base they climbed the line that was later used to approach the Col Puerta Blanca (N7). 280 Bibliography. Gipfelstiirmer rgg6 p. 2r. 4

EL BASTARDO SOOm, 6b AO Alexander and Thomas Huber (DE)-Stephan Siegrist (CH)-Mario Walder {AT), 1/2008. 280, 292, 293, T 292

Description. The serious "approach" (N7) to the Col Puerta Blanca (700m, 35° 6a) leads to a steep face with great rock. lee forced the first ascensionists to aid a few

Aguja de Ia Silla

291

Aguja de Ia Silla from the NW. page 292 Aguja de Ia Silla from the east.

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short sections. The last two pitches are common with Filo Este. The climb involves several wide cracks. History. The route was climbed alpine style over two days. The name refers to the fact that the priest in Walder's hometown was unwilling to baptize him, because he was born to a single mother. Gear. Triples to #3, double #4, one # 5, TCUs, stoppers. Descent. Rappel the route.

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THE VERTICAL CURRENT 300m, 6b Whit Magro- Nate Opp-Josh Wharton (US), 2/2011. 289

Description. Climbs six new pitches on the right side of the south face to join Filo Este (5oom altogether). History. The first ascent was done as part of The Wave Effect link up (see Cerro Fitz Roy). Gear. Doubles to # 3, one # 4, TCUs, stoppers. Descent. Rappel the Filo Este route and traverse east to La Brecha de los ltalianos. AGUJA DESMOCHADA (ca. 2550 m). Aguja Desmochada has some of the best and steepest freeclimbing in the massif. The name means "without a head" or "sawed off", which is an accurate description of its appearance. Luis Lliboutry christened it (in French) "Aiguille Sciee". jim Bridwell, Greg Dunmire and jay Smith (US) made the first ascent in r988. Two years earlier C. and V. Ravaschietto (IT) had made an attempt, retreating after 350 meters.

West face Approach. De Agostini to Niponino, then up the glacier past the Couloir Poincenot to an obvious right leaning ramp (as for N7 initially). Five hours from Niponino to the base. This approach is complex and difficult in the dark, so consider sleeping at the base. 1

EL CONDOR SSOm, 7b+ A2 (6c A2) Jim Bridweii-Greg Dunmire-Jay Smith (US), 2/1988 . 60, 280, 295, T 294

Description. An impressive line on great rock that avoids the lower buttress by traversing onto the wall via an obvious ramp. Note that climbing the lower buttress via Golden Eagle is a far better and safer alternative (250m to 6b, about three hours climbing time). The first ascent party left a fixed rope across the horizontal traverse on the forth pitch to allow retreat in case of a storm.

Aguja Desmochada

fa ce

293

Bibliography. First ascent: AAJ 1989 p. s6 · 6s; R+l 32 p. 18- 27; Brid well ). (1992) Climbing Adventures, ICS Books, Merrill ville-IN , USA (p. 160 -170). Ra vaschi ettos: Pareti 3 p. 20.

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History. From a bivy at the base the first ascensionists spent two marginal weather days fixing their climbing ropes on the first four pitches. They then climbed to a bivy at the top of the ninth pitch (ledge for two), and reached the summit the following day. A second bivouac was made during the descent. The Ravaschiettos placed the two bolts on the second pitch during their rg86 attempt. This pitch was freed at 7b+ as part of the Brass Parrot link -up (see Golden Eagle). Gear. Doubles to #3, some triples, one #4, double TCUs, many stoppers, r KB, 2 LA, 5 angles, hooks. Descent. Although hard to rappel on -sight, descending The Sound and the Fury might be the best alternative (see south face descent). The first ascent party rappelled north to the Col Puerta Blanca and then west: a long, complicated and dangerous (stone fall) descent. South face Description. This is a phenomenal face that offers some of the best and steepest freeclimbing in the massif. The rock is generally quite good but it is coarse, so using crack gloves or taping is recommended on all routes. This face does not receive sun until late evening, so it is best avoided during cold periods. Approach. De Agostini to Niponino, then up one of the three options to the Couloir Poincenot approach (N6a, N6b, N6c).

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Descent. For all routes on the south face the easiest descent is via The Sound and the Fury. Once at the big ledge, walk west to find a bolt and piton that mark the start of the rappel line on the lower buttress. Make one rappel to the south, then five more rappels west to reach the "ground". From there the easiest descent is via a couloir to the north (reversing approach N6a), making two 30-meter rappels (slung horn and then a single bolt), followed by a 6o-meter rappel into the couloir (fixed piton). Strategy. lf one hopes to climb up and down in a day, and since doing the approach in the dark is difficult, sleeping at the base is the best option. There is a good bivy ledge, as well as water in the nearby Couloir Poincenot. 2

GOLDEN EAGLE

450m, 7a+ Alexander Huber (DE)- Stephan Siegrist (CH),

1/2006. 295, T 297

The crux pitch of Golden Eagle; Aguja Poincenot in the background.

Description. With the exception of the crux pitch - face climbing up dubious flakes - the route involves steep crack climbing on excellent rock, with no off-widths. Eight enjoyable moderate pitches (to 6b) lead to a big ledge, which is traversed right for about roo meters to the piton that marks the start of the upper part. The pitch above this piton is the crux, with squeaky flakes and mandatory 6b climbing (7a+ or 6b C2). From here the route follows a continuous crack system to a broad ledge, the Eagle's Nest, where it traverses down and right to join The Sound and the Fury (700m altogether). There are some abandoned fixed ropes and hosepipe (presumably to protect the fixed ropes) at the base of the route from a 1986 attempt. History. The first ascensionists completed the route in two days, with a bivy at the Eagle's Nest. Because of ice they aided two short sections. Free ascent. Raul Martinez (ES)- Cintia Percivati (AR)- Sean Villanueva (BE), 2j2on. Gear. Doubles to #3, one # 4, some triples in the middle sizes, one and a half sets TCUs, stoppers.

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THE BRASS PARROT LINK-UP lOOm, 7b+ Whit Magro - Nate Opp -josh Wharton (US), 2011, Golden Eagle to El Condor to Golden Eagle to The Sound and the Fury, as part of The Wave Effect traverse. The crux is the second pitch of El Condor, a V6 boulder problem. If you can't climb V6 bring hooks. This link -up avoids three "not so perfect" pitches of Golden Eagle by climbing three incredible pitches along El Condor. In terms of quality this link-up is likely the best route up Aguja Desmochada.

3

THE SOUND AND THE FURY

450m, 7a A0-7b Dave Sharratt- Freddie Wilkinson (US), 1/2006. Description. This route involves steep crack climbing on excellent rock. Follow the first five pitches of El Facon to the big ledge and after traversing 15 meters right, head left via flakes {5) to an obvious crack and corner system. Two easier pitches lead to steeper terrain and the technical crux (two pitches, 7a Ao), followed by a committing offwidth (6om, 6c). Two more pitches (6b, hands) lead to the east face, where the route moves left, crossing an obvious chimney to climb three pitches up flakes (6a) to the summit ridge (a tempting ledge to the right is a dead end). The final three pitches of El Condor lead to the summit (700m 295, 298, 300, T 297 altogether). History. The first ascent was completed in a 38-hour push from Polacos to the summit and back to town. It is named after the title of a well -known novel by William Faulkner, which in turn was derived from Shakespeare's Macbeth; "it is a tale told by an idiot, full of sound and fury, signifying nothing." The name also reflects the intensity of the storm that hit the first ascensionists during their descent. Gear. Doubles to # 5, some triples in the middle sizes, double TCUs, stoppers. 3.1 FREE VARIATION

jason Kruk-Will Stanhope (CA), 2008. 295 In the steepest section climb a crack just left for two pitches, up a thin corner and a finger crack (7b).

298

Aguja Desmochada

face

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400m, 7a+ Cl+ Isaac Cortes (ES)-jon Walsh (CA)-Andres Zegers (CL), 2/2005. 295, T 299 Description. An independent line on the lower buttress joining El Fac6n for a few pitches before climbing independent ground to rejoin El Fac6n (700m altogether). The upper off-widths ofEl Fac6n can be avoided by climbing left into The Sound and the Fury. History. The first ascent was completed in a 36-hour round trip from Polacos. Walsh estimates that the route could be freed at around 7c. Gear. Doubles to # 4, one #5, some triples in the middle sizes, double TCUs, stoppers.

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Description. This route involves steep crack climbing on excellent rock and the horizontal sickle roof looks incredible. The second pitch above the big ledge is the crux-shallow, rattly fingers in an overhanging dihedral (?a+). The next pitch is thin hands through a horizontal sickle roof (7a), followed by a Harding Slot-like chimney and a fist crack (6b+). Above, a long off-width (6c Ao) leads to a hand crack (6b+) and easier terrain. Once on the east face climb three icy, wide pitches (avoidable by moving left into The Sound and the

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Fury). The route joins El Condor on the ridge and follows it to the summit (7oom altogether). History. This was the second ascent of Aguja Desmochada. They named the route after a gaucho's knife, the sharp nature of the rock, and the way their bodies felt the next morning. Gear. Doubles to #5, some triples in the middle sizes, one and a half sets TCUs, stoppers. 6

CODA 350m, 7a+ AO

Neill Kauffman-Josh Wharton (US), 2/2011. 295, 298, 300

Description. Climb the lower pitches of Golden Eagle, then traverse right along the ledge past El Fac6n to a steep crack system. Seven pitches, with freeclimbing up to 7a+, two points of Ao, a short pendulum to avoid a seam, and a move around a scary detached flake, lead to easier ground on the east face. When the angle eases, traverse left, crossing El Fac6n to join The Sound and the Fury (7oom altogether). History. The first ascent was completed in a 3r-hour round trip from Niponino, including a three- hour bivy during the descent. The route is named in memory of jonny Copp and Micah Dash (US), two well loved and respected climbers, who died in 2009 while attempting to climb a peak in China. Copp had visited Patagonia on numerous occasions. Gear. Doubles to #4, one #5, some triples, one and a half sets TCUs, stoppers.

Looking west from the summit of Aguja Desmochada. The Cerro Torre group in the background.

East face Approach. As for the south face (N6a, N6b, N6c), then continue up the Couloir Poincenot (see description below). 7

CIRCUS PETS SOOm, 6b AO

Pete Fasoldt -Eii Simon (US), 2/2011. 300 Description. Good rock overall. The first ascensionists climbed the route free except for a two-meter section on

Aguja Desmochada

East face

301

page 300 Aguja Desmochada east face.

FITZ

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the last pitch, where they encountered an icy off-width (would likely go free at 6b+). Thirteen pitches in total. History. Fasoldt took a seven-meter fall on the approach and only managed to continue with the help of a few Percocets (a kind of fairly strong pain killer). The route's name is a play on the word Percocet. Gear. Doubles to # 3, one each to #5, one and a half sets TCUs, stoppers. Descent. Rappel the route. West and east face 8

PUERTA BLANCA 300m, 6b AO

Alexander Huber (DE)- Mario Walder (AT) 2/2007. 60, 280, 300

Dorte Pietron on the middle section of Golden Eagle.

Description. Huber describes this as being "a very long and involved alpine route." The "approach" is indeed complex: 700m, 35o 6a. From the Col Puerta Blanca traverse south (55°) and climb six pitches to the summit (6b Ao). History. The first ascent party bivouacked once, at the col. Approach. De Agostini to Niponino to the Col Puerta Blanca (N7). Gear. Doubles to #3, one #4, TCUs, ice-gear, 3 ice-screws. Descent. Rappel the route. 8.1 VON BIRCKHAHN VARIATIONS

Carsten von Birckhahn (DE)-Colin Haley (US), 2009. ln 2009 Carsten von Birckhahn (DE) climbed two alternate approaches to the upper portion of the Puerta Blanca route. Approach as for Circus Pets, then either climb until under the serac and traverse leftwards directly beneath it (to 3), or climb a line just right of a right facing corner on the left side of the rock barrier that blocks passage left of the serac. The second option is harder (three pitches to 6b, one pitch mixed) and more time consuming but far safer. Von Birckhahn pioneered one approach with Colin Haley (US), the other with juan Canale (AR) and Dominic. To descend, rappel immediately east of a rock rib on the 60, 300 snowfield at the base of Aguja de !a Silla.

302

Aguja Desmochada

East face

AGUJA KAKITO (ca. 28oo m). Aguja Kakito is a small tower between La Brecha de los ltalianos and Aguja Poincenot. Although small, it should not be underestimated. The time consuming approach and ascent are far more complex than one would expect. The summit block is blank on all but one side and requires spiraling around it to reach the top. Omar Moscoso and Roberto Pardinas (AR) made the first ascent in 1994. Pardinas named the peak after his son.

West face Approach. Rfo Blanco to Paso Superior to Glaciar Piedras Blancas Superior (Sl) to La Brecha de los ltalianos (S2a or S2c). 1

BELLADONA

300m, 6a C2 Omar Moscoso- Roberto Pardifias (AR), 2/1994. 71, 303, 313

Description. From La Brecha descend west about roo meters and traverse south along a series ofledges until

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4 30m 7a+

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3 40m 7a

below Aguja Kakito (20om, 4). Now climb an obvious system to a shoulder north of the summit. Contour the summit block via its east and south sides to reach the west face, where a lone crack gives access to the top. Ten pitches. Gear. Double to #2, one #3, TCUs, stoppers. Descent. Rappel the route. Bibliography. High I42 p. 42; AAJ I994 p. I85.

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History. The first ascensionists christened this summit after their first name initials. Descent. Rappel the route.

AGUJA POINCENOT (ca. 3002 m). Aguja Poincenot is the second highest summit in the Fitz Roy group. The route followed on the first ascent is quite popular and offers high quality moderate alpine climbing to a scenic summit. Aguja Poincenot has more variety than any other peak in the massif, with several phenomenal alpine routes, e.g. the Whillans-Cochrane, the Carrington - Rouse and the Fonrouge- Rosasco. A steep and blank south face features some of the hardest aid climbs in the massif, while the extraordinary east face has two beautiful lines, Patagonicos Desesperados and Whisky Time. The north face sports inviting crack climbs. Only the west side of the south face fails to live up to its appearance, although the route judgment Day might be the one exception. The name remembers jacques Poincenot, one of the members of the French expedition that climbed Cerro Fitz Roy in r952. ln late rgsr Poincenot was attempting to cross Rio Fitz Roy when he lost balance and was pulled by the strong current. He got stuck at the end of his safety rope and could not swim to shore. He is buried in Puerto Santa Cruz. Poincenot was one of the best climbers of his generation, and had earned a big reputation. Frank Cochrane (lE) and Don Whillans (GB) made the first ascent in rg62 .

._ East face Approach. Rio Blanco to Paso Superior to Glaciar Piedras Blancas Superior (Sl). With decent snow conditions one can go from the Paso Superior to the bergschrund in one hour. To gain the start of the ramp you have to traverse a concave slope, which can often be unstable. Consider tying two ropes together and belaying the traverse (about room). 1

WHILLANS-COCHRANE SSOm, 70° M4 5+ Frank Cochrane (I E)-Don Whillans (GB), 1/1962.

Description. This is a remarkably varied and scenic alpine route, following an obvious snow ramp that cuts across the east face. The crux pitch is a short mixed section at

Aguja Poincenot

East face

307

Milena Gomez climbing the snow ramp of the ultra classic Whillans-

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Bibliography. First ascent: AJ 1962 p. 236- 242; Mountain Craft 1968/81 p. 18- 22; AAJ 1962 p. 265; Wh ill ans D. (1971) Portrait of Mountaineer, Heinemann, London (p. 206 - 214). Winter ascent: Climbing 189 p. 30; High 203 p. 86; Climber 11/99, p. 42-49. Parkin: High 129 p. w; AAJ 1994 p. 184.

the end of the ramp (som, s 80°). From there easy rock (4 -S+) leads to the summit. The route is reasonably clean, with no abandoned fixed ropes. ,. PH 309, 320, 327 History. The first ascensionists were part of a large Irish expedition including F. Beloe, C. Burland, T. Kavanagh and G. Narramore. They fixed ropes part way up the ramp and during the final push Whillans lead all the way to the summit. Winter Ascent. Jim Hall-Andy Kirkpatrick-Nick Lewis- Paul Ramsden (GB), 7/I999· Solo Ascents. Michael Messner (AT), Ig88; Miroslaw Smid (CZ), I990; Andy Parkin (GB), I993; and several more since. Strategy. A competent party can easily climb this route in a day from the Paso Superior or from the west side of Laguna de los Tres. Descent. Rappel the route. Beware that if you miss the shoulder, you will end up rappelling the steep south face. Believe it or not this has happened in the past. FUHLE DICH STARK, ABER NICHT UNSTERBLICH 400m, 60° 6c A3+ MS Simon Gietl (IT)- Roger Schaeli (CH), 12/2009. Description. Climbs ISO meters along the Whillans- Cochrane (6oo), then turns right to tackle a steep, blank, 30- meter face, which involves hard aid. Above, the route follows an obvious crack system (ssom altogether). History. After fixing ropes up the Whillans ramp the pair climbed the route in four days. Regarding the name, "feel strong but not immortal," Schaeli explained that it was intended as a reminder to "listen to your intuition." Gear. Doubles to #4, double TCUs, stoppers, IS pitons, hooks, copperheads. ,. PH 309, 327 Descent. Rappel the route. 2

Bivy at the top of the fifth pitch on Patagonicos Desesperados.

page 309 Aguja Poincenot from the NE page 311 Left: Aguja Poincenot from the NE Right: Aguja Poincenot upper north face

3

PATAGONICOS DESESPERADOS 550m, 6c A3 Daniel Anker- Michel Piola (CH), 1/1989, in two sections. Oriol Bar6 (ES)-Ramiro Calvo (AR), 2010, first continuous ascent . .. PH 309, 327, T 309 Description. This is a beautiful line with some gritty rock in the lower third, but immaculate granite in the upper two thirds. The crux is a short hooking traverse that is

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well-protected. The lower part involves slab climbing, while the upper climbs steep cracks. Sixteen bolts in place. History. Approaching via the Whillans ramp, Anker and Piola climbed the upper two thirds, then added the lower part two days later. After waiting a month for good

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weather, Anker and Piola had decided to head home, only to change their mind at the last minute. ln the ensuing ten days and in mostly bad weather, they climbed four new lines, an enjoyable route on El Macho, one on Aguja Rafael juarez and one on Aguja Guillaumet, as well as this impressive line on Aguja Poincenot. The name of the route, which was also the name of the article that Piola wrote for Mountain Magazine at the time, explains the frustration they so successfully channeled into such a ferocious spree of activity. Bar6 and Calvo made the first continuous ascent with one bivy. Strategy. There is a good bivy ledge at the top of the fifth pitch. Gear. Doubles to #4, TCUs, stoppers, hooks, a few pitons. Descent. Rappel the route. 4

WHISKY TIME SOOm, 6c A4

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Description. An incredible line, steep and exposed with solid rock. The crux pitch is short (15m) and not dangerous. lt joins Patagonicos Desesperados for the last three pitches (550m altogether). All belays are equipped with two bolts. History. The first ascensionists fixed 250 meters of rope before completing the ascent. Gear. Triples to #4, one #5, TCUs, 3 Z pitons, 3 KBs, 2 hooks. Descent. Rappel the route. Bibliography. AAJ 1995 p. 216-217, High 142 p. 41-42, GHM 95/96 p. 66.

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0

3 40m 6a+

2 30m 5 1 150m 60 " 3

Whisky Time

North face- East side Approach. Same as for the east face. S

POTTER-DAVIS

400m, 75o 7a Al Stephanie Davis - Dean Potter (US), 3/2001. Description. Great crack climbing leading to an imposing roof. Climb snow and ice right of the NE face (70° 3) to a

310

Aguja Poincenot

face-East side

F1Tz Rov GRouP 1

lOOm 6a Cl

17 6a

A \

point 25 meters below the ridge, where a bolt marks the start of the route. An obvious crack leads to the top of a small pillar (four pitches). Now tackle a sparsely protected face leading to an angling crack and a small roof. Two more pitches up a big corner lead to a large "cave" that is blocked by a roof with two giant cracks on either side. Surmount the roof by crawling up and behind the left most crack, then ride pony out along the top of a rock bridge. One final easy pitch leads to the summit. It is also possible to climb horizontally right out of the cave (A2), then up a gritty, crumbly wall to the ridge (H. Codo- L. Fava - E. Orlandi, 2006). 309, 311 History. Davis and Potter climbed the route in a 25hour round trip from the Paso Superior, rappelling the Whillans- Cochrane and leaving no gear in place on their line of ascent. The bolts in place are from a I996 attempt by X. Teixidor and P. Vilarasau (ES), and the piton belays higher up from a 2006 repeat. Gear. Doubles to #4, TCUs, stoppers. Descent. Rappel the route.

16 WCl

14 5 C1

12 6a+

11 6a Cl

North face- West side Approach. De Agostini to Niponino, then up Couloir Poincenot (N6).

10 6a+

6

9 5

8 6a+

BANANA WALL SSOm, 6c Cl M6 Sacha Friedlin-Frederic Maltais (CA), 1/2008. 313

7 6a Cl

Description. This route involves sustained, high- quality granite cracks on almost every pitch. The first three pitches climb the gully between Aguja Kakito and Aguja Poincenot, M6 on the first ascent, but late season repeats might find dry rock instead. No gear in place. History. The first ascent was made in alpine style over three days. The name of the route refers to the curving cracks in the central part of the climb. Gear. Double to #4, TCUs, stoppers, 2 ice-screws. Descent. Rappel the Whillans- Cochrane.

t 1: Old Smuggler I

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600m, 6a+ C1 Gregory Crouch-Jim Donini (US), 12/1996.

I I

20 5+

Description. This is a sustained climb, with cracks of every size. The first two pitches are common with the 40° Gruppo Ragni route. Route finding from the top of the north face to the summit is tricky and includes one rappel (20 m, leave a rope fixed if you plan to descend the route). No bolts or pitons in place. History. The name refers to the brand of cheap Argentine whisky that kept the first ascensionists going through the numerous bad weather spells. Twenty years before, when Donini made the first ascent of Torre Egger, Old Smuggler had also played an important role. Gear. Doubles or triples to #3, one each to #5, TCUs, stoppers. Descent. Rappel the route. Bibliography. MJ I997 p. 252-254; High 176 p. 8o-8r; R+l78 p. 68-78; GHM g6/97 p. 39; Gregory Crouch (2002) Enduring Patagonia, Random House, USA (p. II5- I4I).

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313, 318, T 312

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11 C2 10 5+Cl

9 5+ C2

8 6a C2

40° GRUPPO RAGNI

SSOm, 6a C2 Daniele Bosisio-Marco Della Santa-Mario Panzeri-Paolo Vitali (IT), 12/1986, to the top of the west buttress.

7 5 6 6a C2

313, 318, 320, T 314

Description. The rock is solid throughout and there are several especially striking features in the

5 5

4 5 Cl 3 5+ 2 5 C2

314

I

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1 5+

Aguja Poincenot -

'

upper half, including a 40- meter crack that slashes across a featureless headwall. Four belay bolts and one protection bolt in place. History. The first ascent was completed alpine style over two days, with one bivy at the r4th belay. The route was named to commemorate the 4oth anniversary of Gruppo Ragni, a climbing group from Lecco. Gear. Doubles to #4, TCUs, stoppers, RPs. Descent. Rappel the route. West face Approach. Same as for the north face. 9

CARRINGTON- ROUSE

400m, 6a+ Rab Carrington-Alan Rouse (GB), 2/1977. 315, 318, T 315

Description. This is a fine alpine route, with a fairly complex approach. The climbing is varied, involving face climbing, layback flakes and chimneys. lt joins the Fonrouge - Rosasco 250 meters below the summit (6som, 6a+ altogether). History. The first ascent was completed in alpine style in a three-day round trip from the Glaciar Torre. Gear. Doubles to #I, one each to #3, 2 or 3 TCUs, stoppers. Descent. Rappel the Whillans- Cochrane or judgment Day. Bibliography. Mountain 58 p. r8-2r; AAJ I978 p. sSr-583; Climbing 47 p. s-n. 10

SOUTHERN CROSS lOOOm, 7a Cl jonathan Copp-Dylan Taylor (US), 2/2002. 318, 320 T 316

Description. From the base of Aguja Desmochada's south face traverse horizontally, crossing the Couloir Poincenot to reach an obvious ramp. After the ramp it crosses the Fonrouge- Rosasco, and then later joins it for roo meters before heading left. On the summit ridge pass through

Aguja Poincenot

face

315

Bibliography. Alp 25 p. 19; Benini A. (1996) Ragni di Lecco - so anni sulle montagne dell mondo, Vivalda, Torino (p. 189 and 192).

page 313-4 Aguja Poincenot north face

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a tunnel between two blocks and rappel (rope around a horn) to reach the summit block. History. The first ascent was completed in alpine style over three days, carrying no bivy gear. The name refers to a Crosby, Stills and Nash song: "When you see the Southern Cross for the first time, you understand now why you came this way... " Gear. Doubles to #4, one #5, TCUs, stoppers, RPs. Descent. Rappel judgment Day.

30m 4 114 35m 6a 113 35m 6a+ 112

45m 6a+ Ill 45m 6bA3 1lO

25m 6a 19

South face - West side Approach. De Agostini to Niponino to Polacos, then up Couloir Rafael juarez (N4). 11

45m 5+ A2 18

50m 6a A3 17

TANGO VIEJO 400m, 6b A3 Erich Gatt-Stephan Gatt (AT), 3/2010, to a small summit on

30m 6a+ 16 35m 6a

the west ridge. 318, T 317

55m 6b 14

Description. Climbs the west face of a small tower on the west ridge. The main corner system is beautiful but the rock can be gritty at times. The first few pitches may be common with the DNV Direct. History. The route was climbed alpine style over two days. The first ascensionists reached a small summit that they christened Punta Mercedes Sosa. Gear. Doubles to #3, one #4, TCUs, stoppers, pitons. Descent. Rappel the route.

Aguja Poincenot

face- West side

40m 6a 13

35m 5 12

1 I ,\

.b,

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Tango Viejo

317

40m 4

12

FONROUGE-ROSASCO lOOm, 60° 6c

jose Luis Fonrouge-Aifredo Rosasco (AR), 12/1968. Description. This is a long alpine route, involving mostly moderate climbing except for one distinctive wide crux section, a corner half way up. After the corner bypassing two small towers requires a short rappel. Soon after this the route joins the upper third of the Whillans-Cochrane (9oom altogether). 318,320 History. The first ascent was completed in alpine style over four days. In 1994 Fabio Leoni and Ermanno Salvaterra (IT) made the second ascent in 13 hours. Strategy. A competent party should be able to climb the route in a long day from Polacos. Gear. Doubles to #3, one #4, 2 or 3 TCUs, stoppers.

Bib liography. First ascent: AAJ 1969 p. 447; CAB- Anuario 1979 p. 18; Fonrouge ). L. (1999) Horizontes Vertica les en Ia Patagonia, El Elefante Blanco, Buenos Aires (p. 209- 228). Sa Iva terra: Alp 111 p. 18; AAJ 1995 p. 208; RdM 167 p. 8; B SAT 1994/2 p. 30-31.

12.1 BENEDETTI- DEGREGORI 200m, 6c, Nicolas Benedetti-Esteban Degregori (AR), 12/2010, six new pitches (900m altogether). 320

12.2 BRANS BY- TRESCH

200m, 5+, Ben Bransby (GB)-jvan Tresch (CH), 1/2004, to the Fonrouge- Rosasco; Leo Houlding- Kevin Thaw (GB), 2006, to the summit (900m altogether). Approach as for Desmochada south face then cross the Couloir Poincenot to an obvious ramp. 320 13

DNV DIRECT

600m, 7a C1 jason Kruk-Will Stanhope (CA), 1/2008. Description. Although the lower part has rock that is far from solid, this route is a great adventure and an appealing line. After Goo meters it joins the Fonrouge- Rosasco and follows this to the summit (no om altogether). History. The first ascent was completed in alpine style over three days. The name refers to the District of North Vancouver, the happy suburb where the first ascensionists grew up. A Polish team led by P. Lutinsky attempted this line in 1986, retreating after 12 pitches. The Campamento

Aguja Poincenot

face - West side

319

Aguja Poincenot west face.

Polacos is named after their expedition, although it had been used many years before by an Argentine expedition (Kopcke and partners, r969). 318, 320 Strategy. Decent bivy ledges along the route. Gear. Doubles to #3, one #4, TCUs, stoppers. Descent. Rappel judgment Day. 14

El SACRIFICIO DEL RATON 600m, 6c C1 Dave Sharratt- Freddie Wilkinson (US), 12/2006. Description. This obvious crack system is alluring from afar but up close it is gravelly, with plenty of scrappy climbing and groveling. Three hundred meters below the summit it joins the Fonrouge- Rosasco for a short distance, and then follows the Whillans- Cochrane (9oom altogether). 320 History. The first ascent was completed in alpine style over two days. Gear. Doubles and some triples to #4, one #5, double TCUs, stoppers, RPs. Descent. Rappel judgment Day. 15

RISE OF THE MACHINES 650m, 6c A2+ Jens Holsten-joel Kauffman-Mikey Schaefer (US), 12/2011. 320 Description. Seven pitches of stellar climbing in clean corners (to 6b) lead to a steep headwall with less than perfect rock. This headwall features plenty of loose blocks, and involved a couple of pendulums (seven pitches to A2+). Two pitches above it joins the Fonrouge- Rosasco and the Whillans - Cochrane (9oom altogether). History. The first ascensionists completed the route in alpine style over three days, naming it after a Terminator movie, to keep up with the Terminator theme set by neighboring judgment Day. However, unbeknownst to them judgment Day was not named after the Terminator movie with the same name. Gear. Triples to #3 , one #4, double TCUs, stoppers, s-6 pitons. Descent. Rappel judgment Day.

Aguja Poincenot

face- We st side

321

Aguja Poincenot south face - west side.

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GROUP

300m 5 14 50m 5

16

JUDGMENT DAY

SSOm, 6c C1 Steve Gerberding-jay Smith (US), l/1992.

13 60m 6a+

320, T 322

12 60m 5+

11 60m 6a AO

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10 60m 6c C1 Historia Interminable 9 60m 6a+

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8 40m 5+ 7 60m 6c AO I

6 60m 6c OW I I

Description. This is the best line on the west side of the south face. After n pitches it joins Historia Interminable and soon after the Whillans- Cochrane (900m altogether). With the exception of a short tension traverse and one ro-meter long icy section it goes free. History. After fixing 150 meters of rope, the first ascensionists completed the climb in four days, two of which they spent waiting out a storm on top of the eighth pitch. By the end they had so little food that Gerberding passed out while climbing, taking a ten meter fall. Strategy. Good bivy ledge at the top of the eighth pitch. Gear. Triples to #2, doubles to #4, one # 5, triple TCUs, stoppers, RPs. Descent. Rappel the route. Bibliography. AAJ 92 p. 164- 172; Desnivel 73 p. 79· 17

HISTORIA INTERMINABLE

SSOm, 6b+ A2 Fernado Cobo-M
5 60m 5+

320, T 323

4 60m 6a+

Description. This climb starts from the Col SUSAT, negotiating easy terrain to reach the headwall. The lower part of the headwall is climbed via a flake, which after three pitches becomes so wide that one is forced

3 60m 6a+

2 60m 6a

1 50m 4

-

judgment

300m 5

to aid a thin crack to the side (A2). There are many abandoned fixed ropes. History. The first ascensionists fixed roughly soo meters of rope. Gear. Doubles to #4, one each to #6, double TCUs, stoppers, RPs, ro pitons including Peekers. Descent. Rappel Judgment Day. Bibliography. Extrem 24 p. 38; Peiialara Ig88/I p. s-g; Desnivel28 p. 64 - 68; Desnivel29 p. 29.

4

5 114

6a+ 114

6a 113

6a 112

6b A2 Ill

South face - East side Approach. Campamento Poincenot to Glaciar Rio Blanco Superior (S3). 18

6b 110

ViA RUSSO 750m, 6b A4 M4 Sergey Dashkevich-Mikhail Devi-Evgeniy DmitrienkoArkadiy Seregin (RU) 2/2012.

6b+ 19

6b 18

I

326, 327

Description. After 18 pitches it joins the Sperone degli ltaliani and eventually reaches the summit via the Whillans- Cochrane (12oom altogether). History. The first ascent was made in capsule style, moving camp twice. The team placed one camp at the top of the fourth pitch and a second at the junction with the Sperone degli ltaliani, 14 pitches higher. Gear. Big wall rack. Descent. Rappel the Sperone degli ltaliani.

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750m, 6c A3+ Makoto lshibe-Aiexandre Portela (BR), Andy Magg-Mike Schwitter (CH), 2/1995, to the Sperone degli Italiani.

23

360m3-6HA '

1'-
326, 327, T 324

Description. There is some danger from falling ice while climbing pitches seven to ro. History. The first ascensionists used fixed ropes, but the climb was left clean. Bagual means wild horse in Argentine slang. Strategy. The team estimates that a repeat will require four to six days. Gear. Triples to #4, 4 sets TCUs, stoppers, RPs, r set of LAs, 5 KBs, 5 Bugaboos, 6 angles, 5 Peekers, ro copperheads, all hooks. Descent. Rappel the route. Bibliography. AA) 1995 p. 216-217; AA) 1996 p. 236; High 154 p. 7; GHM 1994-95 p. 55; Vertical Sop. 31; Alta Montana 3, p. r8- 19.

Q/

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14 50m 5+A1 13 30m A3

309, 326, 327, T 325

Description. A few easy pitches lead to a 400-meter vertical wall with few features. Half of the following ro pitches climb thin cracks, flakes and slabs using aid. The other half involves awesome freeclimbing on flakes and in comers. Above, the

Aguja Poincenot

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12 50m 5+ A1

11 30m 5+ A1 10 30m 5+ AO 9 50m 5+ A1 8 50m A1

I I I

SPERONE DEGLI ITALIAN!

900m, 6a+ A3 Alessio Bortoli-Adriano Carnati-Massimo Colombo (IT), 12/1986, to roo meters from the summit (after joining the Whillans - Cochrane).

to•, I

7 50m A2

20

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6 30m 5 A1 5 50m 5 A1 4 50m 6a+

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face- East side

325

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route gets easier, climbing a further 400 meters to join the Whillans - Cochrane. Forty bolts in place. There are many abandoned fixed ropes. History. G. Bianchi, C. Brustia, A. Galbusera, B. Vagletti and M. Vismara were also part of the expedition. The first ascensionists fixed ropes over two consecutive seasons. During the 1985-86 season they managed to climb about 6oo m. The route is dedicated to Galbusera's wife, Francesca, who became ill and died soon after the expedition. Integral ascent. Andrej Grmovsek -Silvo Karo (Sl), 2j2005, in an 48 -hour round trip, bivouacking after 14 pitches and reaching the summit at 3 p.m. on day two (120om altogether). They freeclimbed many sections to 6c. Gear. Doubles to #3, one #4, double TCUs, stoppers, RPs, IO pitons. Descent. Rappel the route. Bibliography. Lo Scarpone 1987/7 p. 20- 21; MJ 1987 p. 212 - 215; Alp 25 p. 19.

326

Aguja Poincenot

face - East side

TRAVERSES AND LINK-UPS

21

Aguja Saint- Exupery, Aguja Rafael and Aguja Poincenot TRAVESfA COPP-WHARTON 1850m, 6c jonathan Copp-Josh Wharton (US), 2/2006.

page 326 Aguja Poincenot south face - east side. Aguja Poincenot from the east.

320, 335, 337, 342, T 331, 341

Aguja Poincenot

and li nk- ups

327

FJTZ

Rov

GROUP

Description. The first ascensionists climbed Aguja Saint-Exupery via Chiaro di Luna (750m, 6c), descended the Kearney - Harrington and then traversed the exposed and tricky ridge leading to Rafael juarez, reversing the route Ural Path. They then summitted via the upper portion of the Anglo- Americana (20om, 6c) which they rappelled to climb the Fonrouge - Rosasco (goom, 6c) on Aguja Poincenot's south face, finally descending the Carrington- Rouse. \ History. The first ascent party bivouacked twice, on Aguja Rafael juarez and high up on Aguja Poincenot. Their traverse took 52 hours round trip from Polacos. Approach. As for Chiaro di Luna. Gear. Doubles # 3, one #4, some TCUs, stoppers. Descent. Rappel judgment Day. LA GRAN BARRERA

The "great barrier" is a wall and serac band immediately to the east of Aguja Poincenot. A number of short waterfalls have been climbed on its eastern end, with difficulties to Wl4. Approach. Rio Blanco to Paso Superior (Sl), then just before the pass drop southwest across a heavily crevassed glacier to the base. 22

HVIT Ll NJ E 400m, WIS Bj0rn - Eivind Artun - Marius Olsen (NO) 327

Description. This is an impressive waterfall in the center of La Gran Barrera, directly below the obvious serac band. You read correctly: it is below a serac, so beware. The name means "white line" in Norwegian. Gear. Twelve ice-screws, Abalakov tool. Descent. The first ascensionists rappelled the route (Abalakovs) but a walk off might be preferred.

328

La Gran Barrera

AGUJA RAFAEL JUAREZ (ca. 2460 m). Aguja Rafael juarez has a number of worthy climbs. The west ridge is a phenomenal line and there are great crack climbs on its north and west face, especially Blood on the Tracks and Corallo. lt is much bigger than it appears: because of this it often sees unplanned bivouacs. On his 1952 maps Luis Lliboutry listed this tower simply as "Aguja Sin Nombre" (spire with no name) . Later, this would evolve into Aguja lnnominata (nameless spire). ln 1974 the first ascensionists named it "Aguja Rafael juarez" in memory of a young climber from Cordoba, Argentina, who was loosely linked to their expedition. "El Chino" juarez and Eduardo Atilio Mundet disappeared on the Adela glacier and are presumed to have fallen into a crevasse. Because it was unclear which route they had planned to climb, it was impossible to organize a rescue. On the summit of Rafael juarez the first ascensionists left a memento - a badge from Club Andino Cordoba, the mountaineering club to which juarez belonged. just before his disappearance "El Chino" had attempted the east face of Cerro Murall6n with well-known Argentine climber jose Luis Fonrouge (Mj 1975 p. 184) .

The esthetic upper portion of the Anglo-Americana.

._ West face Approach. De Agostini to Niponino to Polacos then up the Couloir Rafael juarez (N4). Descent. Rappel the Anglo -Americana. 1

ANGLO- AMERICANA 400m, 40° 6c Martin Boysen-Paul Braithwaite-leo Dickinson (GB)-Dan Reid-Rick Sylvester (US), 1974.

Description. This is the easiest route up the peak and except for the last three pitches the climbing is mediocre. The crux wide section (6b+) can be avoided by climbing a 330, 332, 335, T 331 steep crack on the south ridge (6b). History. Recalling the crux wide pitch, Dickinson wrote: "Reid came to a vertical crack that looked as if it needed bongs. We had none and so Boysen climbed it free and in boots. He climbed it with one boot and one hand in the crack, with his other limbs lashing along the edge of

Aguja Rafael juarez

face

329

Bibliography. Mountain 37 p. n; Mountain 38 p. 31; AAJ 1975 p. 184·188.

page 330 ._ Aguja Rafael juarez from the NW.

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the crack. He thought he was off a few times before he reached the top of the crack and when he did, he was so exhausted that he could not belay for five minutes." Solo ascents. jimmy Mora (CL), 2/2007; Colin Haley (US), I2/20II. Strategy. A competent party should be able to climb it in a day from Polacos. Gear. Doubles to #2, one each to #4, 2 or 3 TCUs, stoppers. lf you climb the variation near the top you don't need a#4. Descent. The first rappel is down the south ridge, then rappel the route.

330

Aguja Rafael juarez

face

SOm/ 5 114

1.1 KEARNEY- HARRINGTON

150m, 6a+! Sue Harrington-Alan Kearney (US), 1/1988. 330, 335, T 331 (4oom altogether). Bibliography. MJ r989 p. r76, p. 178; Climbing no p. 72-76.

60m/6b 113

1.2 QUILOMBO

250m, 7a Cl Zack Smith-Heidi Wirtz (US), 1/2004. 330, 335

Description. After the first two pitches of the Anglo- Americana, head left onto the steep west face, linking several right-leaning cracks via two short face sections. The climbing is sustained, with four pitches harder than 6c, one of which required aid. After eight pitches it rejoins the Anglo- Americana (4oom altogether). History. Quilombo means "total mess" in Argentine slang. Gear. Doubles to #3, one #4, double TCUs, stoppers, RPs. Descent. Rappel the Anglo- Americana. 2

CORALLO

450m, 7b Fabio Leoni-Ermanno Salvaterra (IT), 2/1994. 330, 335, T 330

Description. This is a beautiful line with steep and sustained climbing. The rock in the main corner is a bit flaky. History. Salvaterra first attempted this line with M. Giordani. The name

Aguja Rafael juarez

face

331

FITZ

Rov

GROUP

refers to the coral colored rock on the upper left side of the face. They dedicated the route to Toni Egger. Free ascent. Ben Ditto (20n). However, Leoni and Salvaterra had used only a single point of aid high on the route. Gear. Doubles to #4, double TCUs, stoppers. Descent. Rappel the Anglo- Americana. Bibliography. Alp III p. 18; AAJ 1995 p. 208- 209; High 142 p. 42 - 43; Desnivel96 p. 93; GHM 1994-95 p. 13, p. 54; RdM 167 p. 8; B SAT 1994!2 p. 30-31. 3

FILO OESTE lOOm, 6b+

Greg Crouch -jim Donini (US), 12/1996 to the Anglo -Americana. 330, 335 Description. Walsh described the route as "a very fun day on great rock." Climb to the base of two, obvious, right leaning cracks that split at the first tower on the ridge. Climb the left crack and continue up the ridge, weaving around the upper towers. There are 20 pitches to the Anglo -Americana and another five above to the summit (8som altogether). History. Integral Ascent. Paul McSorley -jon Walsh (CA), 2j2005 to the summit. In 20II Paula Pera, Manuel Quiroga and Flavio Renzacci (AR) climbed a "sit start," starting up the slabs right above Polacos. This adds a further 300 meters of climbing (nsom altogether). Strategy. Competent parties have repeated it in a day from Polacos. Bibliography. High 176 p. 78; AAJ 1997 p. 252 - 253. 3.1 VARIANTE CHILENSIS

300m, 6b+ A0 jose Edwards -Vicente Espinoza (CL), 12/2011, to the Anglo -Americana. 332

Description. Ten new pitches on the south face of the west ridge to join the Filo Oeste and the Anglo -Americana (so om to there). Approach. Head toward the Col de los Austriacos (Ns).

332

Aguja Rafael juarez

face

East face Approach. Campamento Poincenot to Glaciar Rio Blanco Superior (S3). 4

LUTHI- DOMINGUEZ 300m, 70° 6a A1 Carlos Dominguez (AR)-Peter Luthi (CH), 1/1989.

Description. Seven pitches lead to the south shoulder of Aguja Rafael juarez, where the route joins the Anglo -Americana. Follow this for five more pitches to the summit (450m 332 altogether). Descent. Rappel the route. Bibliography. CAB - Revista 1989/21 p. 32. 1> North face Approach. De Agostini to Niponino to Polacos, then up the Couloir Rafael juarez (N4).

5

PIOLA-ANKER 350m, 6b+ C1 Daniel Anker- Michel Piola (CH), 335, 336, T 333 1/1989.

Description. Starts from the Col SUSAT. Good rock. History. This is one of four new routes that Anker and Piola climbed in a ten- day spree. See Patagonicos Desesperados on Aguja Poincenot for details. Gear. Doubles to #3 , one #4, some TCUs, stoppers, RPs. Descent. Rappel the Anglo -Americana. Bibliography. Mountain 130 p. 20 - 25; Vertical32 p. 28- 37; AAj 1990 p. 206-209 .

Aguja Rafael

East face

333

FITZ

Rov

GROUP

5.1 DE KLERK-BRUGGER lOOm, 6a, julie Brugger (US) -Andy De Klerk (ZA) 2/1991. 332, 334, T 333

Avoids the aid section on the Piola -Anker route. Excellent climbing (350m, 6b+ altogether). 5.2 BONAPACE-HEVIA 150m, 6b A2, Tommy Bonapace (ATHulian Hevia 332, 334, 336, T 333 (ES), 1/1995.

From the big ledge halfway up the Piola- Anker climb up right to cracks on the NE arete (350m, 6b+ Az alto gether). Bibliography. Gipfelstiirmer 1996 p. 2I. 6.1 ARTEBELLEZA 300m, 6c Carsten von Birckhahn-Anke Claus (DE), 12/2002. 334, 335, 336, T 333

Description. Climbs six new pitches on the north face to join the Piola-Anker (400m altogether). History. Free ascent. Bean Bowers was the first to free the six pitches of Artebelleza. John Dickey and Josh Gross freed all the way to the summit (via the De Klerk- Brugger). Gear. Doubles to #4, TCUs, stoppers. Descent. Rappel the route. 6.2 COMO NO! 200m, 6a Cl Jon Walsh (CA), 02/2005. page 332 -c Top: Aguja Rafael juarez south face of the west ridge. Bottom: Aguja Rafael juarez from the east. page 335 ., Aguja Rafael juarez west face.

335, 336, T 333

Description. This is a four-pitch alternate start to Artebelleza, which Walsh highly recommends. He estimates it might go free at 6c. When linked with Artebelleza and the De Klerk- Brugger, it could be a long, enjoyable freeclimb (450m, 6c altogether). History. Walsh fixed two ropes and then rope-soloed to the summit in 12 hours. His was the first solo ascent of the peak. Gear. Doubles to #4, TCUs, stoppers. Descent. Rappel Artebelleza.

334

Aguja Rafael

North face

FITZ

Rov GROUP

6.3 TIEMPO PARA LA PLAYA

180m, 6c Cl Kate Rutherford-Mikey Schaefer (US), 2/2012. 335, 336

Description. Follows the first three pitches of Como No!, then moves right to climb six steep pitches (wide at first) to join Blood on the Tracks. This in turn joins the Bonapace- Hevia, which it follows to the summit (450m altogether). Gear. Doubles to #4, one each to #6, TCUs, stoppers. Descent. Rappel the route. 6.4 BLOOD ON THE TRACKS

350m, 7b Taki Miyamoto (JP)-Dave Sharratt- Paul Tureki-Freddie Wilkinson (US), 12/2005. 335, 336

Description. This is an incredible line with steep and sustained climbing. Start up the first two pitches of Como No!, and where it climbs left to an overhang, traverse slightly right to the left side of a triangular roof and a steep crack system. The ninth pitch is the crux and the last is common with the Bona pace- Hevia. Eleven pitches (450m altogether). History. After the first ascent Miyamoto, Sharratt and Wilkinson returned to free climb the route. Gear. Doubles to #3, a few triples, one #4, double TCUs, stoppers, RPs. Descent. Rappel the route. Aguja Rafael juarez north face.

336

Aguja Rafael juarez

North face

AGUJA SAINT- EXUPERY (ca. 255om). Aguja Saint-Exupery is best known for Chiaro di Luna, an ultra classic that, for its grade, is one of the finest freeclimbs in the massif. Le Petit Prince, a serious aid line on the south face, is reputed to be quite good, and the nearby Condorito deserves the attention of someone with the skills to freeclimb it (estimated at 8a). Luis Lliboutry named this summit after Antoine de Saint-Exupery (1900- 1944), a French pilot and author

Aguja Saint-

Exupery from the east.

Aguja Saint-Exupery

337

FITZ

Rov

GROUP

who, as a member of the French Aeropostale, became famous for flying mail across the Andes. His writings, which include masterpieces such as Le Petit Prince, La Terre des Hommes and Vol de Nuit, have inspired several generations of travelers and adventurers. He was the Director of Argentine Aeropostale from r929 to I93I and disappeared while doing a reconnaissance flight over the northern part of Corsica. His death remains a mystery. East face Approach. Campamento Poincenot to Glaciar Rio Blanco Superior (S3). 1

ITALIANA

lOOm, 60° 7a (6a+ Cl) Gino Buscaini-Lino Candot-Silvia Metzelin-Walter Romano-Silvano Sinigoi (IT), 2/1968. 337 Bibliography. AAJ 1969 p. 448; CAl- RM 1968/6 p. 294-299; Alpin ism us 1969/2 p. 29- 38; Metzelt in S. (1984) Alpinismo a tempo pieno, Daii'Oglio, Milano (p. 162-168).

Description. Climbs the east ridge, tackling an obvious dihedral at half height. Several variations are possible. To avoid a thin 30- meter aid pitch in the upper third, which requires pitons, traverse ro meters right to an obvious crack (6a). History. The first ascensionists fixed 250 meters of rope, and then completed the route in a four-day round trip. They placed only two bolts. Theirs was one of few successful ascents in the massif that season, a large French team gave up on Cerro Fitz Roy's east pillar and an Anglo- Argentine expedition failed on Cerro Torre's SE ridge. In r998 K. Albert and B. Arnold added a number of bolts to the upper part. Free ascent. Makoto lshibe (Brazil) - Mike Schwitter (CH), I993Gear. Doubles to #3, TCUs, stoppers. Descent. Rappel the route. 1.1

KOZULJ- MAGALDI 200m, 6b Jorge Kozulj - Diego Magaldi, (AR), 1997. 337

Other variations. Top her Donahue - jared Ogden (US), 20or, mixed start on the south side (20om, M6).

338

Aguja Saint-Exupery

East face

50m 4 19

2

60m 6a l8

URAL PATH 300m, 65° 5+ A2

Victor lgolkin-Aiexander lvanov-Mingalim Sibaev-Sergey Soldatov- Yury StroganovAnatoly Volodko-Rinate Zaitov (RU), 12/1996. Description. Climbs mixed ground to the Rafael-Saint Exupery ridge, then traverses it to join the ltaliana 200 meters below the summit (5o om altogether). 337, 342 History. The first ascent was completed in two days. Descent. Rappel the ltaliana. Bibliography. AAJ 1997 p. 255. ., North face and west buttress Approach. De Agostini to Niponino to Polacos, then up toward Col de los Austriacos (N5). 3

80m J7 30 " 3

50m JlO 4 60m l9 6c+

60m J8 6b

60 m l7

6

KEARNEY-HARRINGTON 400m, 30° 6a

Sue Harrington-Alan Kearney (US), 2/1988.

50 m 6b l5

337, 342, T 339

Description. This is a mediocre route but the easiest to the summit. lt climbs an obvious ramp leading to the NE ridge, and then traverses to the ltaliana (550m altogether). There are three or more variations to reach the ramp, all about the same difficulty. History. In 1978 F. Heredia and R. Tylka (AR) attempted this line, retreating after 250 meters. Solo ascents. Rolando Garibotti (AR), 1996; Colin Haley (US), 2on; josh McClure (US), 2012, solo link-up of

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Bibliography. Kearney: AAJ 1989 p. 176 -178; Climb in g 110 p. 72 -76; Tylka: AAJ 1978 p. 585; Andinismo # 1/78 p. 54 - 55· Fowler: AAJ 1999 p. 74-79, p. 338.

traverse in the upper portion of the ultraclassic Chiaro di Luna. Aguja Bffida and Cerro Piergiorgio in the background .

._ Aguja SaintExupery north face and west buttress.

340

Aguja Saint-Exupery .. North face & west buttress

19 50m 4+

A1. 1 ·'

18 60m 5+

Saint-Exupery and Aguja Del'S (18 hours from Polacos to Polacos). Gear. Doubles to #2, one #3, stoppers. Boots and crampons might be needed for the snowfield part way up. Descent. Rappel the route. 3.1 GLICK-DAVIS

120m, 6b+, Mark Davis- Lorne Glick (US), 2002.

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300m, 6c+ Charlie Fowler-Nathan Martin {US), 1999. 340, 342 T 339 Five new pitches branching right from the ramp to reach the NE ridge two pitches below the summit. Camalot #5 needed. The first ascensionists described it as an excellent route.

8 150m 6a+

4

7 l45m5

CHIARO Dl LUNA

750m, 6b+ Maurizio Giordani- Rosanna Manfrini-Sergio Valentini {IT), 11/1987. 340, 342 T 341 Description. A three star climb. This is one of the best free climbs of around 6b standard in the area. lt starts 50 meters up the basalt dike. History. The first ascensionists descended in the moonlight, hence the name. Solo ascent. Alexander Huber (DE), 2on, with one bivy. Strategy. Get an early start; it is Ionger than it looks. The easiest descent requires taking boots and crampons part way up the route.

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3 150m 6b+

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Chiaro di Luna Aguja 5aint·Exupery

face & west buttress

341

20m 13 ?Om 6a+2

Gear. Doubles to #3, 2 or 3 TCUs, stoppers. Descent. It is possible to rappel the route but a hammer and a lot of cord are needed. The easiest option is to rappel the upper chimney and then continue straight down to the Kearney - Harrington. 4.1 LOS ANGELITOS

Bibliography. Giordani: Mountain 125 p. 13; AAJ 1989 p. 176; CAl- RM 1988/4 p. 76; RdM 96 p. 13; Lo Scarpone 1988/ s p. 7; Lo Scarpone 1988/n p. 11. Bonapace: Gipfelsturmer 1996 p. 21.

300m, 6b Tommy Bonapace (AT)-julian Hevia (ES), 1995. 342

This is an eight-pitch variation start to Chiaro di Luna (750m altogether). Returning to camp late, Hevia fell while traversing a snowfield without crampons and slid out of control for 250 meters. He eventually managed to self arrest, not far from a cliff band. During the fall, he saw many angels hovering around him: Los Angelitos. 4.2 SUPERTREK

page 342 Aguja Saint- Exupery from the west.

350m, 6a+ Bean Bowers-David Nettle (US), 2003. 340, 342 T 341

Involves two variations to Chiaro di Luna, climbing 750 meters altogether. The name is a tribute to the glacier hike guides who kept them laughing in camp through much bad weather. Bring double #4 Camalots . .West face and south ridge Approach. De Agostini to Niponino to Polacos, then up toward Col de los Austriacos (N5). Descent. Rappel the Austriaca, or as for Chiaro di Luna. 5

BROOKS- CROUCH/TICAL

400m, 6b Cl-7a j. jay Brooks -Greg Crouch (US), 2/1999, to the Austriaca. Ben Bransby (GB)-jvan Tresch (CH) 2004, to the summit, with variations. 340,342

Description. joins the Austriaca 200 meters below the summit (6oom altogether). Bransby and Tresch followed a different line in the first half, climbing five pitches up a comer and chimney leading to a dike that slashes across

Aguja Saint- Exupery

face & south ridge

343

Bibliography. AAJ 1999 p. 337; High 203 p. 84.

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the face. Climbing through the dike was the crux and involved unprotected 7a, with serious potential for injury in the event of a fall. It is unclear whether they were right or left of the line climbed by Brooks and Crouch. Brans by and Tresch named their line Tical. History. In 1995 M. Motohiko (JP) made several attempts just left of this line. Gear. Doubles to #3, one #4, TCUs, stoppers, RPs. 6

LAST GRINGO STANDING

350m, 6c Cl Toby Grohne-jesse Huey (US), 3/2008. 342 Description. Phenomenal crack climbing. Three perfect crack pitches (6b) lead to a dike. Traverse left across it (2om, 6a) to reach a four -pitch crack system that joins the Austriaca zoo meters below the summit (550m altogether). History. The first ascent was completed over two days. The name refers to the fact they were the last foreign climbers to leave the campground that season. Gear. Doubles to #3, one #4, 2 or 3 TCUs, stoppers. 7

AUSTRfACA

SSOm, 6b Cl-6c (via variation) Hans Barnthaler- Ewald Lid I (AT), 11/1987. 342,346 Bibliography. AAJ 1988 p. 175·

Description. The climbing is sustained and on solid rock but the ledges are strewn with loose blocks. Best avoid this route during dry or warm periods. Fifteen pitches lead to Punta Cristina, after which a so -meter rappel and three more pitches gain the summit. The first ascent party placed many bolts where natural protection is readily available. Note that 250 meters of fixed rope were left in place during an attempted rescue in 2or2. History. The first ascensionists christened the south summit of Aguja Saint- Exupery Punta Cristina. They also christened the col at the base of the route (Exupery-De l'S) Col de los Austriacos. Free ascent. lonny Copp- josh Wharton (USA), 2004, via a three -pitch variation left of the original line, avoiding the steep dihedral at the start (number 7.1 in the photodiagrams).

344

Aguja Saint - Exupery,. West face & south ridge

16 190m 5+

Approach. The first ascensionists approached from the east, via an obvious couloir. However, due to stone fall, this alternative is not recommended. The approach via Polacos is the preferred route. Gear. Doubles to #3, one #4, 2 or 3 TCUs, stoppers.

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South face Approach. Campamento Poincenot to Glaciar Rio Blanco Superior (S3). l3

so·

LE PETIT PRINCE lOOm, 85° 6b+ A4

Jerome Arpin-Philippe Bouquet des Chaux - Emmanuel Pelissier- Benoit Robert (FR), l/1995. Description. Etienne Fine, who made the third ascent describes it as a su337, 346, T 345 perb climb. History. Climbed with fixed ropes over a month. Named after Antoine de Saint-Exupery's well- known literary masterpiece. Solo ascent. Lionel Daudet (FR), a week after the first ascent. He completed the route in eight days, initially fixing some rope, and then spending three nights on the wall, climbing capsule style from a portaledge. 8.1 ORIEL- FINE 200m, 6a A3+ Philippe Oriel- Etienne Fine (FR), 2000. 346, T 345 Driel and Fine fixed some rope on Le Petit Prince and then spent nine days on the wall with a portaledge. From

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Bibliography. Arpin: AAJ 1995 p. 216, p. 218; High 152 p. 15; GHM 1994-95 p. 13, p. 54; Le Alpi (CAS) 1996/4 p. 22- 24; AeR 185 p. 15; Vertical 78 p. 46-47; LMeA 1995/2 p. 64. Daudet: GHM 1994/95 p. 13; AAJ 1995 p. 217- 219; LMeA 1995/2 p. 63.

the top of the 12th pitch they climbed a four-pitch direct finish up an obvious dihedral (7oom altogether). According to Fine, this variation is a much more classy finish. Gear. Triples to #4, double TCUs, stoppers, RPs, 20 KBs, 12 LAs, 30 angles, 6 Peekers, 12 copperheads, hooks. Descent. Rappel the route. ASTROCHOSS SOOm, 30° 6b Cl Kate Rutherford-Mikey Schaefer (US), Ol/2012 .

._ Aguja SaintExupery south face. ,.. Aguja SaintExupery south face.

346

Aguja Saint- Exupery

face

200m 6a 30°

Description. As the name implies, the rock is far from perfect. lt joins the ltaliana 200 meters below the summit (700m altogether). History. Climbed over two days. Gear. Doubles to #3, one #4, one #5, TCUs, stoppers . .-PH 346 Descent. Rappel the ltaliana, then Condorito. 10

CONDORITO SOOm, 30° 7c C2 Kurt Albert- Bernd Arnold - Egbert Dozekal (DE),

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Description. This route has two distinct sections: the first nine pitches involve steep crack climbing; the next five follow flakes and slabs just left of an obvious Only pitch eight required aid, on a rs-meter thin finger crack that the first ascensionists reckon would go free at Sa. lt joins ltaliana 200 meters below the summit (7oom altogether). One hundred bolts were placed, including several that were added to the ltaliana. The sun leaves the face at around r:oo p.m. History. Climbed over several weeks with many fixed ropes and a powerdrill. lt was named after a popular Chilean comic strip, known for its heated tone, which Albert read in an attempt to learn Spanish. Gear. Doubles to #3, one #4, double TCUs, stoppers, RPs. Descent. Rappel the route. Bibliography. MJ 1998 p. 28r; Klettern 1998/3 p. r6; Berg 1999 p. Sr- Ss; Desnivel 155 p. 96.

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AGUJA DE L'S (ca. 2330 m). This tower is a good initial objective for those visiting the area for the first time. lt is best known for its ultra classic and moderate Austrian route, but it also has a number of difficult lines in its south and west faces. Lines like )ugo de Hielo, Thaws not Houlding Wright and The Gentlemen's Club are particularly worthwhile. Bernard Amy and partners (FR) made the first ascent in 1968 and were likely responsible for the naming of the peak. East face Approach. Campamento Poincenot to Glaciar Rio Blanco Superior (S3). 1

Bibliography. High 152 16; GHM 1994-95 13; AAJ 1995 p. 216, 219; GHM 1995/96 66; LMeiA 1995!2 p. 63; Vertical 78 p. 49·

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CARA ESTE AND VARIATIONS 450m, 30° 6a Bernard Amy and partners (FR), 2/1968. Description. Climbs an obvious red dihedral on the left side of the face to reach easy ground and the south ridge of the summit pinnacle. 349, T 350 Gear. Doubles to #I, one each to #3, stoppers. Descent. Rappel the route. 1.1 JOSH AIKE 200m, 6a+ Omar Moscoso- Roberto Pardif\as (AR), 1994. 1.2 BABY FACE 200m, 50° 5 RolfThausing (DE), 1993. 1.3 VOlE FISHER 200m, 5+ Cameron Burns (AU)-julian Fisher-Charlie French (GB), 1995. Bibliography. AAJ 1990 p. 210; AA) 1994 p. r8s; AAJ 1996 p. 233; Climber 1997/1 p. 44-51. 2

348

QUI SE SOUVIENT DES HOMMES 300m, 6c+ Lionel Daudet (FR), 12/1994. 349, T 350

Aguja de I'S

Description. joins the Cara Este route 150 meters below the summit (450m altogether). There are five bolts and a few of pitons in place. History. Daudet completed the ascent after fixing ropes over three days. He returned with jerome Arpin to free the crux. The name refers to jean Raspail's 1986 book about the Kaweskars, a nomadic sea- faring people that inhabited islands off the southwestern coast of the Americas. Gear. Doubles to #2, one #3, 2 or 3 TCUs, stoppers, 7 - IO pitons. Descent. Rappel the route.

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LA FEMME DE MA VIE 400m, 7aA1 Lionel Daudet (FR), 1/1995. 349, T 350

Description. There are seven bolts and a number of pitons in place. History. Daudet completed the first ascent after fixing ropes over four days. He named the route after his wife, who accompanied him on a year-long climbing trip around the world. Gear. Doubles to #2, one #3, 2 or 3 TCUs, stoppers, 5 to 7 pitons. Descent. Rappel the route. Bibliography. See Qui se souvient des Hommes. 4

AUSTRfACA 350m, soo 6a Hans Barnthaler- Ewald Lid I (AT), ll/1987. 349, 352, T 350

Description. This is one of the best introductory climbs in the area. History. Solo ascents. All from the west: Charlie Fowler (US), r996; Colin Haley (US), wn; josh McClure (US), 20r2, solo link-up of Aguja Saint-Exupery and Aguja del'S (r8 hours round trip from Polacos). Description. The route was first climbed via an approach from the east but it is also possible and perhaps preferable to do the climb from the west, via Niponino, Polacos and the Col de los Austriacos (N5). Gear. Doubles to #I, one each to #3, TCUs, stoppers. Descent. Rappel the route. Bibliography. First ascent: AAJ r988 p. I75; Fowler: AAJ I997 p. 253· West and south face. Approach. De Agostini to a point just before Niponino. Descent. All routes on the west and south faces descend the Austriaca on the north ridge, reversing the Col de los Austriacos approach (N5) to Polacos.

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JUGO DE HIELO 600m, 85° 6a Gian Carlo Grassi-Roberto Pe-Mauro Rossi (IT), 11/1986. T 352

Description. Unfortunately, this phenomenal climb seldom forms. Follow an obvious couloir (7oom, 45°) to a 250-meter ice smear (85°) over blank slabs, and then climb the summit pyramid (room, 5+). It is possible to escape from the base of the ice-smear by climbing up and leftOriol Bar6 (ES), 2on, zoom, 5 Al. History. The first ascent party completed the route in 13 hours. lt was one of four new routes that Grassi, Pe and Rossi climbed during their month long visit. ln the mid 1980s, when most climbers only had eyes for Cerro Torre and Cerro Fitz Roy, their search for unclimbed lines on smaller peaks was a clear step forward. Gear. One each to #2, stoppers, 9 ice-screws. Bibliography. Alp 23 p. r8-2r, RdM 84 p. 12-13, RdM 86 p. 56-6r, AAJ 1987 p. 215, CAl-RM 1987/4 p. 36-44. 6

THAWS NOT HOULDING WRIGHT 900m, 6b Leo Houlding-Kevin Thaw (GB)-Cedar Wright (US), 3/2004. T 352

Description. The first ascensionists describe this as an enjoyable route. The initial5oo-meter "approach" involves moderate rock climbing up easy slabs reminiscent of Yosemite's Royal Arches route. The upper headwall is climbed via cracks left of a prominent red streak. History. The first ascent was made in one day from the valley floor. Gear. Doubles to # 3, 2 or 3 TCUs, stoppers. 7

THE ART OF WAR 750m, 7a C2 Crystal Davis-Robbins-Ryan Nelson (US), 2/2007.

Description. The first buttress has the best rock on the route and is mostly moderate (6a), with one hard section (7a A2). From the top of this buttress traverse left to join Thaws not Houlding Wright for a few pitches (150m). At a big ledge traverse right to a steep corner (90m) and

Aguja de 1'5

353

page 352 -4 Aguja de I'S from the west

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then downclimb six meters to the right to reach a crack system that is followed to the top. This system is predominately wide, from off-widths to chimneys. The upper pitches are often wet and require aid. From the top of the headwall head north on easy ground, then up one more pitch to the summit (9oom altogether). Since the upper part involves wet and wide cracks, those interested in climbing this face might want to consider The Gentlemen's Club or The Wormhole Theory instead. 354, T 352 History. The first ascent was completed in a 34-hour round trip from the valley. Gear. Doubles to #4, one #5, TCUs, stoppers. 8

THE GENTLEMEN'S CLUB 400m, 7a Hayden Kennedy (US) -jason Kruk (CA), 12/2011. 354

Description. Climb the soo -meter approach of Thaws not Houlding Wright, reminiscent of Yosemite's Royal Arches, to an upper headwall that the first ascensionists describe as being similar to Yosemite's Astroman. At the base of the headwall traverse right along The Art of War, continuing to an obvious crack up and right of the red rock band. The steep headwall involves seven long pitches, two of which are 7a, the rest around 6b. From the top of the headwall head north on easy ground and climb one more pitch to the summit (9oom, 7a altogether).

354

Aguja de I'S

History. The name refers to the classy, luxurious experience the first ascent party had on the route. They enjoyed warm weather, good food, herbal night time help, splitter climbing and a mid afternoon return to Niponino. Strategy. The first ascent was completed with a bivy at the base of the headwall but it should be possible to repeat it in a day from the valley. Gear. Doubles to #3, one #4, TCUs, stoppers. 9

THE WORMHOLE THEORY

400m, 7a Josh McClure-Miranda Oakley-John Rambo (US), 01/2012. 354 Description. Follow the Gentlemen's Club until past the red rock band, then continue right for a further roo meters to a crack system. Seven long pitches lead to easy ground, then traverse north and climb one more pitch to the summit (go om, 7a altogether). Strategy. The first ascent was completed with a bivy at the base of the headwall but it should be possible to repeat it in a day from the valley floor. Gear. Doubles to #3, TCUs, stoppers.

page 354 -4 Aguja de I'S upper south face.

Aguja de 1'5

355

FITZ Rov GRouP

Top: Moj6n Rojo's east face. Bottom: The impressive and still unclimbed west face of Moj6n Rojo.

MOJON ROJO (ca. 2170m). The summit of Moj6n Rojo provides excellent views of the Cerro Torre and Fitz Roy groups. It is surprising that this peak does not draw more attention. Along with Cerro Solo, Cerro Gorra Blanca and Cerro Electrico it is one of the best moderate mountaineering objectives in the area. Lliboutry christened it in 1952, while Cesarino Fava and jose Mordini (AR) made the first ascent in 1961. CARA ESTE

Cesarino Fava-jose Mordini (AR), 1961.

70,206

Description. This is a highly worthwhile alpine outing, moderate but interesting and scenic. The glacier leading to the base has large crevasses. The 150-meter climb involves difficulties from 2 to 4· History. Fava and partners traveled to the area hoping to recover Toni Egger's body. However, large amounts of snow prevented them from finding it. Instead, they placed a plaque in Egger's memory at the base of Cerro Torre. Approach. Campamento Poincenot to Glaciar Rio Blanco Superior (S3). Descent. Reverse the route. Bibliography. AAJ 1962 p. 263, CAl - RM 8o/s- 6 p. 179- r8o ; B SAT 196rj r- 2 p. 15; B SAT 1961/ 4 p. 13CARA OESTE

300m, 60° 5+ jim Bridwell (US)- Robert Staszewski (AU), 3/1978. 352

Description. Climb the couloir just north of the peak (so om, 40°). It leads to two ice pitches (60°), followed by a ramp and loose corner (8om, 5). The summit is now reached via easy slabs and a final pitch of s+. History. In 1987 Scott Cole (US) repeated either this route or climbed a parallel line, finding difficulties to s+ and A2, and an unprotected slab. Approach. De Agostini to an obvious gully 30 minutes before Niponino. Descent. Downclimb the east face and hike out via Laguna Sucia (S3). Bibliography. AAJ 1978 p. s84; Mountain 55 p. II .

356

Moj6n Rojo

CERRO TECHADO NEGRO (ca. 2150 m). This peak is a classic mountaineering objective, offer ing excellent summit views. Routes recorded below are mentioned for the sake of keeping a historical record, not for their special interest as climbs. lf you want to climb this peak, pick the best-looking line and enjoy yourself. As rock quality is very mediocre, this peak should only be attempted when there is abundant snow and ice. lt was named in r952 by Lliboutry. 70, 206 ln February r96r Sergio Bossini (AR) completed the first ascent via the east face. A few days later he returned with Cesarino Fava and Juan Spikermann to climb a harder line on the south face. Bossini, Fava and Spickermann were part of an expedition trying to recover the body of Toni Egger. Unfortunately, large amounts of snow prevented them from finding it. ln 2000 Stephan Huber and Thomas Tivadar (DE) climbed the north pillar (400m, 6a 50°), finding much loose rock. They christened their line Rost Spur. Approach. The south and east faces of Cerro Techado Negro are best approached from campamento Prestado res, the north face from Laguna Sucia and the Glaciar Rio Blanco Superior (S3).

Bibliography. Bossini: AAJ 1962 p. 263, CA l- RM 8o/s-6 p. 179-18o; B SAT 1961/1-2 p. 15; B SAT 1961/4 p. 13.

CERRO NIRE

This rocky summit immediately east of Cerro Techado Negro was climbed and christened by Sergio Bossini in I96I. Approach. As for Techado Negro. PUNTA VELLUDA (ca. r9som).

Lliboutry named this summit, which is situated immediately east of the Paso Superior. Velluda refers to the long, black, hairy lichen that covers it. Twenty years later, in I972, members of a large expedition from Rovereto (lT), led by Armando Aste, made the first ascent of this small top and renamed it Cima Rovereto. They called the entire ridgeline Cresta dei Roveretani, and climbed a series of small summits on the crest, which they named after friends who had lost their lives in the mountains. Lliboutry's original name has withstood change. 69

Cerro Techado Negro

357

Cerro Techado Negro from the NW in a particularly dry year. Lago Viedma in the background.

FITZ

Rov

GROUP

COMEDOR DE LOS FRANCESES Bibliography. Aste: B SAT 1972j2 p. 52-56; Mario Fantin (1972) AIM, CAl, p. 8s4-855; Aste A. (1975) Pilastri del Cielo, Reverito, Trento, p. 240- 279; Aste A. (1988) Cuore di roccia, Manfrini Editori, Calliano (TN) p. 196-214.

The ridge south of Laguna de los Tres is known as El Comedor de los Franceses, and is so named because the members of the 1952 French Fitz Roy expedition usually stopped there for lunch. The original name given by Lliboutry was simply El Comedor. In 1972 Armando Aste and partners climbed the crest and renamed it Cresta del Centenario SAT (Societa degli Alpinisti Tridentini). They also climbed and christened a series of small summits along 69 this ridge. Lliboutry's original name still stands. CERRO MADSEN (ca. 1900m).

Lliboutry named the peak immediately north of Laguna de los Tres after Andreas Madsen, one of the first western settlers in the region, and the first to reach Laguna de los Tres. It is an interesting peak that provides breathtaking views of the massif. 207 FILO DEL HOMBRE SENTADO HOMBRE SENTADO (ca. 2150 m) AND PUNTA LEILA

The ridge between Cerro Fitz Roy's west face and Boquete del Piergiorgio is called Filo del Hombre Sentado (sitting man ridge). It was named after the obvious tower at its west end, which when observed from the Torre Valley, resembles a "sitting man". In the late 1940s Hans Zechner referred to it as Cerro Muiieco (doll peak; CAB-Anuario 1950 p. 22) but his playful name was overwritten by Lliboutry. Italian Cesare Maestri climbed this tower in 1958 and renamed it Punta Anna after his sister. He also climbed and named a tower immediately to the east Punta Lelia. In 1984 an all female party led by C. Agiied (AR) climbed Punta Lelia and renamed it Punta Mujer. Lliboutry's original name for the tower to the west, Hombre Sentado, and Maestri's for the tower to the east, Punta Leila, still stand. Filo del Hombre Sentado can be approached from the Piedra del Fraile via the Paso del Cuadrado and the Glaciar Fitz Roy Norte (P3), or from De Agostini and Niponino via the Boquete del Piergiorgio (N9), or via the SW face of the Filo del Hombre Sentado itself (N8). 65, 207

358

Comedor de los Franceses

ROUTE INDEX

CORDON ADELA

CerroAzara Kolliker- Witte Arrieta- Lora

74 74

Agujas del Rio Ttinel T 48- Come sana - Palma 1

75

Cerro Solo 2 Matzi- Sabatte 2.1 Las Lagrimas del Solo 2.2 Wright 3 lnsomnio

75 76 77 77

Cerro Grande 4 Filo Norte 5 Cara Norte 6 Filo Este 7 Cara Sureste 8 Cara Sur

77 78 78 78 79

Punta Luca Bonatti- Mauri

79

Punta Mini Torre O'Dell- Raselli

79

Cerro El Doblado Detassis- Maestri- Stenico

79

Cerro El Nato 9 Filo Suroeste 10 Luce de Leche 11 Filo Norte

80 81 81

Cerro Adela Sur 12 Filo Sur 13 Cara Sureste 14 Filo Este 15 Direttissima dei Seracchi

360

82 82 83 84

Route Index

Cerro Adela Central 16 Cara Oeste 17 Cara Este 17.1 Aguado - ltxaso attempt 18 Gringo en la Noche 19 Asamblea de Majaras

85 85 85 86 86

Cerro Adela Norte Brenner- Fitzpatrick

87

Cordon Adela Traverses 20 Travesia del Cordon Adela 87 21 Travesia de los Adelas, Sur a Norte 88 22 Travesia del Cordon Adela al Torre 89 TORRE GROUP

El Mocho 1 Espolon Este 2 Voie des Benitiers Todo o Nada 3 Bizcochuelo 4 4.1 jingus variation Grey Yellow Arrow 5 Little Big Wall 6 7 Elorza - Moises attempt 8 Frader Pisafe Greetings from Bad Men 9 10 Reggae Time 11 Anita 12 Back to the Front Aguja de la Medialuna 1 Rubioy Azul 1.1 Cacciatore 1.2 Gratton- Martorelo

92 93 93 93 94 94 94 96 96 98 98 98 99

100 102 102

Punta Pereyra Houlding- Thaw- Wright 102

Cerro Torre 1 Ragni 2 Los Tiempos Perdidos 3 Cara Sur South Face 4 lnfinito Sud What's love 5 got to do with it 6 Filo Sureste Southeast Ridge Via del Compresor 6.1 Slovene Sit- Start link- up 6.2 The Long Run link-up 6.3 The Corkscrew link-up 7 Peklenska Direttissima Directisima dellnfierno Giacomelli- Orlandi 8 attempt Quinque Anni 9 ad Paradisum 10 Burke - Proctor attempt 11 El Area de los Vientos Attempt lines to Col de Ia Conquista 12.1 Giarolli- Orlandi attempt 12.2 Ponholzer- Steiger attempt 12.3 NW face attempts 12.4 Bearzi-Winkelman attempt Torre Group traverses Travesia del Torre Torre Traverse Torre Egger 13 Americana 14 Venas Azules 15 Psycho Vertical 16 Badlands 17 Titanic

104 112 113 115

17.1 17.2 18 19 20.1

Martin- O'Neill link-up Winter link-up De Dona- Giongo line Huber- Schnarf Dihedrals left of west face attempts 20.2 West face attempt

149 149

Punta Herron 21 Cara Sur 22 Gracias a Ia Vida 23 La Gioconda 24 Spigolo dei Bimbi 25 Tobogan

152 152 153 153 154

Aguja Standhardt 26 Exocet 26.1 SCUD 27 Chimenea Este attempts 28 Tomahawk 29 Extreme Emotions 30 Chaverri- Plaza attempt 31 Potter - Davis 32 El Caracol 33 Otra Vez 34 Festerville

155 158 159 159 159 160 160 160 161 164

Punta Shanti 35 Leonardo Da Vinci

165

Perfil de Indio Bonapace- Ponholzer

166

Aguja Bifida Luthi- Bresba 1 2 Espolon Noreste Bonapace- Diinser 3 4 Hielo y Fuego 5 Filo Sur Cheoma 6 7 Cogan

166 168 169 169 170 170 171

145 146 146 148

118 120 124 128 128 129 130 131 131 132 133 136 136 137 137 138

138

141 143 143 144 145

Route Index

361

ROUTE INDEX

Punta Filip 8 Amigos Perdidos 9 Su Patagunia

172 173

Agujas Pachamama, Atchachila and Inti 10 Travesia Triologia lnca 10.1 Monnoyeur-Sourzac 10.2 Cortisima

174 174 175

Aguja Cuatro Dedos 11 Filo Norte 12 Cara Este 12.1 Travesia Tres Dedos 13 Fingerlicious Aguja CAT 14 Mate Humo

Cerro Pollone 1 Cara Sur 2 A Fine Piece 3 Travesia del Pallone Sass- Wagner attempt 4 5 Re Puesto! Mastica e Sputa 6 Beg, Borrow, or Steal 7 8 Rayuela 9 Aguja Stefan

190 190 191 192 193 194 194 195 195

175 175 175 176

Aguja Pollone 10 Cara Sur 11 La Granja 12 joviejo

196 196 196

176

Aguja Tito Carrasco 13 Cara Oeste 14 Cara Norte

197 198

PIERGIORGIO & POLLONE GROUP

Cerro Domo Blanco 1 Filo Norte 2 Son of)urel 2.1 MonnoyeurSourzac attempt 3 Filo Sur 4 La Suerte Sangrienta Cerro Piergiorgio 1 Cara Este 2 All you need is love 3 Green peace 4 Via del Hermano 5 Giordani - Maspes attempt 6 Pepe Rayo 7 Esperando la Cumbre

Gran Gendarme del Pollone 15 Cara Este 198 198 16 Witches Brew 178 179 179 179 180

181 182 184 184 186 188 189

Lorna Blanca Carrel- CasseraAgostini - Pellissier

De 199

CORDON MARCONI

Cerro Rincon Comesafia- Palma

200

Aguja Volonqui Carrington - Rouse

200

Cerro Marconi Sur Taglialegne

204

Cerro Marconi Central Kopcke- Naccachian- Triep 204

362

Route Index

Cerro Marconi Norte Cazaux- GuthmannPillet- Stegmann- Watzl

23 Travesia Cresta Sur 23.1 Cumbre y Cresta Sur 205

FITZROY GROUP

Cerro Electrico De Agostini - Derriard

208

Castillo Negro Comesafia

208

Aguja Guillaumet 1 Comesafia- Fonrouge 1.1 Cuifias- Rosasco 1.2 Giordani 2 Polaca 3 An6nimo Afios 80 4 Patagonian Werewolves 5 Disfrute la Vida Las Vent'uras 6 7 Padrijo Tee Pitelka 8 9 Manos al Cielo 10 Rayo de Luz 11 The Gambler 12 Let's get Wild 13 Beger- Jennings 13.1 Courrier du Sud 13.2 Terre des Hommes 14 Hard Saying' not Knowing 15 Anker- Piola 16 Eslovena 17 Pippo Frasson 18 Fowler 19 Coqueugniot- Guillot 20 Amy- Vidailhet 21 Brenner- Moschioni 21.1 Carlo 22 Guillotina

222 224

210 211 211 212 212 212 212 214 214 215 215 216 216 216 216 218 218 218 218 219 219 219 220 220 221 221 222

Aguja Mermoz 1 Argentina 2 Cosas Patag6nicas 3 Hypermermoz 3.1 Variante Polaca 4 Barriga Patag6nica 5 Filo Noroeste NWridge 5.1 North Pillar Sit Start variation 6 Padre Viento La Gran Diagonal 7 8 Vol de Nuit 9 Ferrari- Ceballos 10 Pilar Rojo 11 Jardines Japoneses Aguja Val Biois 1 Filo Sur 2 Couloir Este D. E. 3 MiMundo 4 de Contradicciones Cerro Fitz Roy 1 Francesa 1.1 Franco- Argentina link-up 2 Linea Hermanos Gallego 3.1 Nott- Reichert attempt 3.2 AckermannLerjen attempt 4 Pilar Este Royal Flush 5 El Coraz6n 6 7 Linea de Eleganza 8 Hudiceva Zajeda Diedro del Diablo 9 Casarotto

Route Index

363

225 226 226 228 228 230 230 231 231 231 233 233 233

234 234 235 235

239 240 241 241 241 241 242 246 246 248 249

ROUTE INDEX

9.1 Diedro Directo 9.2 Kearney- Knight 9.3 Chimichurri y Tortas Fritas 9.4 Crux del Sur 9.5 Lindh lade- Whimp 9.6 Gringos Perdidos 9.7 Acceso Oeste West access 10 Mate, Porro y Todo lo Demas 11 Al Abordaje! 12 Polaca 13 Francesa Cara Norte 14 Clfnica de Aventura 15 Tehuelche 15.1 The Hoser Chimney 16 Los Dltimos Dias del Paraiso 17 El Flaco con Domingo 18 Aguilar - Banderet Maillefer attempt 19 Filo Noroeste Afanassieff 19.1 Le Chercheur d'Absolu 19.2 Barbier - Fabbri Huet - Keller attempt 20 Supercanaleta 20.1 Directa 20.2 No Brain, No Pain 21 Ensueiio 22 Historia sin Fin 23 Eslovaca 24 Tonta Suerte 25 Californiana 26 The Washington Route 27 The Canadian Route 28 Boris SimonCic 29 Anglo- Americana 30 Travesia Care Bear The Wave Effect link-up

364

250 250

North Pillar Sit -Start link-up

289

253 253 254 254

Aguja de la Silla Filo Este 1 2 Destreza Criolla 3 Bonapace attempts 4 El Bastardo The Vertical Current 5

290 290 291 291 293

Aguja Desmochada 1 El Condor 2 Golden Eagle The Sound and the Fury 3 Dieta del Lagarto 4 5 El Fac6n 6 Coda 7 Circus Pets Puerta Blanca 8 8.1 Yon Birckhahn variations

293 296 298 299 299 301 301 302 302

Aguja Kakito 1 Belladona 1.1 Variation

303 306

PuntaM&M 2 Fim de Carraira

306

255 255 258 258 262 264 264 266 268 268 268 270 270 271 272 274 274 276 278 278 281 282 284 285 286 286 287 288

Route Index

Aguja Poincenot Whillans - Cochrane 1 2 Fiihle Dich Stark, Aber Nicht Unsterblich Patagonicos Desesperados 3 4 Whisky Time Potter - Davis 5 6 Banana Wall 7 Old Smuggler 40" Gruppo Ragni 8 Carrington - Rouse 9 10 Southern Cross 11 Tango Viejo

307 308 308 310 310 312 314 314 315 315 317

12 Fonrouge- Rosasco 12.1 Benedetti- Degregori 12.2 Bransby- Tresch 13 DNV Direct 14 El Sacrificio del Raton 15 Rise of the Machines 16 judgment Day 17 Historia Interminable 18 Via Russo 19 Bagual Big Wall 20 Sperone degli ltaliani 21 Travesia Copp- Wharton

319 319 319 319 321 321 322 322 323 325 325 327

Gran Barrera 22 Hvit Linje

328

Aguja Rafael Juarez Anglo -Americana 1 1.1 Kearney- Harrington 1.2 Quilombo 2 Corallo 3 Filo Oeste 3.1 Variante Chilensis 4 Luthi- Dominguez Piola- Anker 5 5.1 De Klerk- Brugger 5.2 Bonapace - Hevia 6.1 Artebelleza 6.2 Como No! 6.3 Tiempo para !a Playa 6.4 Blood on the Tracks

329 331 331 331 332 332 333 333 334 334 334 334 336 336

Aguja Saint - Exupery 1 ltaliana 1.1 Kozulj- Magaldi 2 Ural Path Kearney- Harrington 3 3.1 Davis - Glick 3.2 Bienvenidos en Patagonia 4 Chiaro di Luna 4.1 Los Angelitos

4.2 5 6 7 7.1 8 8.1 9 10

Supertrek Brooks - Crouch/Tical Last Gringo Standing Austriaca Free line Le Petit Prince Driel - Fine Astrochoss Condorito

343 343 344 344 344 345 345 346 347

Aguja del'S 1 Cara Este and variations 1.1 josh Aike 1.2 Baby Face 1.3 Voie Fisher 2 Qui se souvient des hommes La femme de rna vie 3 4 Austriaca 5 jugo de Hielo 6 Thaws not Houlding Wright The Art of War 7 The Gentlemen's Club 8 The Wormhole Theory 9

353 353 354 355

Moj6n Rojo Cara Este Cara Oeste

356 356

Cerro Techado Negro Various

357

338 338 339 339 341 341 3-H 343

Index

365

348 348 348 348 348 351 351 353

PLACE AND PEAK INDEX

A Adela, Glaciar Adela Central, Cerro Adela Norte, Cerro Adela Sur, Cerro Atchachila, Aguja Austriacos, Col de los Azara, Cerro B Bifida, Aguja Boquete del Piergiorgio Brecha de los ltalianos

c

57,58 84 87 82 173 63 74

E

140 208 68 108, 137

F

Filip, Punta Fitz Roy, Cerro Fitz Roy Norte, Glaciar G Goretta, Pilar Grande, Cerro

366

H

Herron, Punta Hombre Sentado, Filo del y Aguja

150 65,358

I

lnti, Aguja

166 65,66 71

Castillo Negro, Cerro 208 CAT, Aguja 176 Circo de los Altares 62,69 Comedor de los Franceses 358 Conquista, Col de la 133, 136 Cristina, Punta 344 Cuadrado, Paso del 68 Cuadrado, Portezuelo El 178 Cuatro Dedos,Aguja 175 D De Agostini, Campamento 56 Desmochada, Aguja 293 Doblado, Cerro El 79 Doblado, Paso 79 Domo Blanco, Cerro 178 Dumbo, Aguja 202 Egger, Torre Electrico, Cerro Electrico, Lago Esperanza, Col de la

57, 58 209 67

Grande, Glaciar Guillaumet, Aguja Guillaumet, Paso

171 236 68 248 77

173

K

Kakito, Aguja L Leila, Punta Lorna Blanca Luca, Punta Lux, Col de

303 358 199 79 147

M

Madsen, Cerro Marconi, Glaciar Marconi, Paso Marconi Central, Cerro Marconi Norte, Cerro Marconi Sur, Cerro Medial una, Aguja de la Mercedes Sosa, Punta Mermoz, Aguja Mini Torre, Punta Mocho, El Mojon Rojo, Cerro M&M, Punta

358 68 69 204 205 204 100 317 225 79 92 356 306

N

Nato, Cerro El Niponino, Campamento Nire, Cerro Noruegos, Campamento

80 57 357 59

p

Pachamama, Aguja Paciencia, Col de la Perfil de indio, Punta Piedra del Fraile, Campamento Piedras Blancas, Glaciar

Place & Peak Index

173 122 166 67 70

Piedra Negra, Campamento Piergiorgio, Cerro Poincenot, Aguja Poincenot, Campamento Poincenot, Couloir Polacos, Campamento Pallone, Cerro Pallone, Aguja Pallone, Gran Gendarme del Puerta Blanca, Col

67 180 307 72 63 62 189 195 198 64

R

Rafael juarez, Aguja Rafael juarez, Couloir Rincon, Cerro Rio Blanco, Campamento Rio Blanco, Glaciar Rio Blanco, Valle del Rio Electrico, Valle del Rio Tunel, Agujas del Rio Tunel, Valle del Rio Fitz Roy, Valle del

329 62 200 69 72 69 67 74 56 56

s S, Aguja de 1' Saint- Exupery, Aguja Shanti, Punta Silla, Aguja de la Silla, La Silla Americana, La Solo, Cerro Standhardt, Aguja Standhardt, Col Sucia, Laguna Sueiios, Col de los Superior, Paso SUSAT, Col

348 337 164 290 71 281 75

ISS 62 72 153 70 62

T

T48,Aguja Techado Negro, Cerro Tito Carrasco, Aguja Toro,Laguna Torre, Cerro

74 357 197 56 104

Torre, Glaciar Torre Valley Trento, Col Tres, Laguna de los Tunel, Glaciar Tunel, Paso

v Val Biois, Aguja Velluda, Punta Viento, Paso del Volonqui, Aguja

59 56 82 70 56 57 234 357 56 200

PHOTO CREDITS

All photographs by Garibotti Rolando, except: Aguilo, Tomas: 224; Altan, Folco Doro collection: 81; Artun, Bjorn-Eivind: 283; Ascaso, Dani: 105; Bennet, Scott: 206-207 (bottom), 213, 215, 228 (both), 287; Bragg, John: 140; Brewer, Steve: 126 (top); Comesafia, Carlos: 208 (bottom), 272; Diaz, Rodrigo: 265; Falcone, Adrian : 208 (top); Fiorenza, Luciano: 235; Gantzhorn, Ralf: 10-11; Jacobson, Lucas: 220; Haley, Colin: 66, 112, 115, 135, 139 (bottom), 250, 270, 284, 285, 288, 292, 300, 304-305; Karo, Silvo: 113, 131, 248 (both); Kauffman, Joel : 336; Kirk, Cullen : 90 -91 (bottom), 354; Lindenblatt, Andi: 356 (top); Llabres, Damian: 60 -61, 67, 108 (right), 236, 289, 309, 352; Morrow, Patrick: 163; Palma, lsmael : 75, 200; Pandolfi, Oscar: 247; Pietron, Dorte: 17, 36-37, 69, 70, 80 -81, 84-85, 125, 127 (both) 128, 204-205 (bottom), 258,261,275,296,301, 307, 340; Prezelj, Marko: 102 (both), 126 (bottom); Skok, Janez: 82, 308; Sourzac, Bruno: 200; Vivaldi, Eduardo: 62; Wald, Beth : 74, 295, 320, 346 (left); Wharton, Josh : 242.

Place & Peak Index

367

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iedras

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