The Rough Guide to Italy

Italy THE ROUGH GUIDE to Idyllic landscapes • Vibrant cities • Amazing art About this book Rough Guides are designed to be good to read and easy to us...

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THE ROUGH GUIDE to

Italy

Idyllic landscapes • Vibrant cities • Amazing art

ITALY AUSTRIA

SWITZERLAND 4

6 SLOVENIA

Trento

Trieste

5

A TI OA CR

Turin 1

Venice

2

Genoa

7 Bologna

FRANCE

Florence

8 Perugia

Elba

CORSICA (FR.)

10

Ancona

9 Pescara

ROME

11

12 13

2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17

SERBIA

3 Milan

Piemonte & HUNGARY Valle d’Aosta Liguria Lombardy & the Lakes Trentino-Alto Adige Venice & the Veneto Friuli-Venezia BOSNIA- Giulia Emilia-Romagna HERZEGOVINA Tuscany Umbria 18 Le Marche Rome & Lazio Abruzzo & Molise Campania Puglia MONTENEG Basilicata & Calabria Sicily Sardinia 1

ADRIATIC SEA

Bari

Naples

17 Cágliari

Potenza 15

TYRRHENIAN SEA Aeolian Islands

14

Catanzaro

IONIAN SEA

Palermo Egadi Islands

16 0

ALGERIA

100 km

TUNISIA

About this book Rough Guides are designed to be good to read and easy to use. The book is divided into the following sections, and you should be able to ﬁnd whatever you need in one of them. The introductory colour section is designed to give you a feel for Italy, suggesting when to go and what not to miss, and includes a full list of contents. Then comes basics, for pre-departure information and other practicalities. The guide chapters cover Italy’s regions in depth, each starting with a highlights panel, introduction and a map to help you plan your route. Contexts ﬁlls you in on history, art and architecture, while individual colour sections introduce Italian food, wine and football. Language gives you an extensive menu reader and enough Italian to get by. The book concludes with all the small print, including details of how to send in updates and corrections, and a comprehensive index.

This tenth edition published March 2011.

The publishers and authors have done their best to ensure the accuracy and currency of all the information in The Rough Guide to Italy, however, they can accept no responsibility for any loss, injury, or inconvenience sustained by any traveller as a result of information or advice contained in the guide.

The Rough Guide to

Italy

written and researched by

Rob Andrews, Ros Belford, Jonathan Buckley, Martin Dunford, Tim Jepson, Lucy Ratcliffe and Celia Woolfrey with additional contributions from

Natasha Foges, Jeffrey Kennedy and Greg Ward

www.roughguides.com

Colour section

1

Introduction ............................... 6 Where to go ............................... 8 When to go .............................. 12 Things not to miss ................... 15

Basics

25

Getting there ............................ 27 Getting around ......................... 31 Accommodation....................... 36 Food and drink ........................ 41 The media ................................ 44 Festivals................................... 45 Sports and outdoor pursuits .... 48 Shopping ................................. 49 Work and study in Italy ............ 51 Travel essentials ...................... 52

Guide 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 G H I

59

Piemonte and Valle d’Aosta...61 Liguria ................................. 97 Lombardy and the Lakes ... 139 Trentino-Alto Adige ........... 213 Venice and the Veneto ...... 257 Friuli-Venezia Giulia ........... 343 Emilia-Romagna ................ 369 Tuscany ............................. 415 Umbria .............................. 525 Le Marche ......................... 579 Rome and Lazio ................ 617 Abruzzo and Molise .......... 705

J K L M N

Campania.......................... 731 Puglia ................................ 795 Basilicata and Calabria ..... 839 Sicily ................................. 869 Sardinia ............................. 947

Contexts

| C ONTE NTS |

Contents 985

History ................................... 987 Italian art .............................. 1003 Italian architecture ............... 1012 An A–Z of Italian ﬁlm ............ 1020 Books .................................. 1027

Language

1037

Italian ................................... 1039 Pronunciation ....................... 1039 Words and phrases .............. 1039 Italian menu reader .............. 1042 Glossary of artistic and architectural terms ............ 1046

Small print & Index

1049

Italian food and wine colour section following p.384

Italian football colour section following p.704

3 Statues in Piazza San Pietro, Rome Beach on the island of Elba

Novara Vercelli

FRANCE

UR

Ventimiglia Monte Carlo

LIG

Como

Genoa

Trento

Vicenza

Pi

Parma Modena

Elba

Livorno

Civitavecchia

av e

Terni

er

Ancona

Rieti

Pescara

ABRUZZO

L’Aquila

Macerata Ascoli Piceno

LE MARCHE

ROME

LAZIO

Pésaro Urbino

SLOVENIA

AUSTRIA

Trieste

SAN MARINO

Venice

Udine

FRIULIVENEZIA GIULIA

Perugia UMBRIA

Rimini

Viterbo

Cortona Grosseto

Siena

Arezzo

Florence

TUSCANY

Lucca A rn o Pisa

Faenza

Ravenna

Po Ferrara

Ad Verona i g e lio Padua Cremona VENETO Mantua

Viareggio

La Spezia

Bolzano

TRENTINOALTO ADIGE Belluno

EMILIAROMAGNA Bologna

Og

Bergamo Brescia

Piacenza

Pavia

CORSICA (FR.)

Sondrio

LOMBARDY

Milan

Alessandria

Po

I A Savona

Asti

Turin

Aosta

no

da

PIEMONTE

VALLE D’AOSTA

SWITZERLAND

ADRIATIC SEA

CROATIA

0

100

200

500

1000

1500

2000

3000

4000

Metres

BOSNIAHERZEGOVINA

HUNGARY

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4

i Ti c

Ad Ti b

ALGERIA

Olbia

Iglesias

TUNISIA

Cágliari

SARDINIA

Porto Torres Sassari

Trapani

Pantelleria

Mazara del Vallo

Egadi Islands

Ustica

TYRRHENIAN SEA

Agrigento

Ragusa

SICILY

Enna

Siracusa

Bari

Taranto

0

100 km

Lecce

Brindisi

IONIAN SEA

Catanzaro

Cosenza

CALABRIA

Reggio di Calabria

Messina

Catania

Matera

BASILICATA

Potenza

PUGLIA

Fóggia

Aeolian Islands

Salerno

NaplesCAMPANIA

Benevento o V o lt u rn

Palermo

Formia

MOLISE Campobasso

| INTRODUCTION | WHE RE TO GO | W HE N TO GO

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| INTRODUCTION | WHE RE TO GO | W HE N TO GO

Introduction to

Italy It’s the world’s most celebrated tourist destination, and rightly so. Italy really does have it all: one of the most diverse and beautiful landscapes in Europe; the world’s greatest hoard of art treasures (on display in ﬁttingly spectacular cities and buildings); a climate that is on the whole benign and mild; and, most important of all for many, a delicious and authentic national cuisine. Yet Italy is not perfect. Corruption still reaches to the highest levels, historic cities have been marred by development, and beyond the showpiece sights the country’s infrastructure is visibly straining. But the fact is that many of the clichés of an idyllic Italy still hold true – and once you’ve visited, you might never want to travel anywhere else.

6

If there is a single national Italian characteristic, it’s to embrace life to the full: in the hundreds of local festivals taking place across the country on any given day to celebrate a saint or the local harvest; in the importance placed on good food; in the obsession with clothes and image; and in the daily ritual of the collective evening stroll or passeggiata – a sociable affair celebrated by young and old alike in every town and village across the country. Italy only became a uniﬁed state in 1861, and, as a result, Italians often feel more loyalty to their region than to the nation as a whole – something manifest in its different cuisines, dialects, landscapes and often varying

• Italy is a peninsula, shaped rather like a boot, jutting out into the Mediterranean Sea. It covers a surface area of 301,230 square kilometres and includes the islands of Sardinia and Sicily. The distance from the tip of the country’s “toe” to its northern border is about 1380km. Much of the land is mountainous, the highest point being Mont Blanc (4748m) in the north.

standards of living. There is also the country’s enormous cultural legacy: Tuscany alone has more classiﬁed historical monuments than any country in the world; there are considerable remnants of the Roman Empire all over the country, notably in Rome itself; and every region retains its own relics of an artistic tradition generally acknowledged to be among the world’s richest. Yet there’s no reason to be intimidated by all this. If you want to lie on a beach, there are any number of places to do so, from the resorts ﬁlled with regimented rows of sunbeds and umbrellas favoured by the Italians themselves, to secluded and less developed spots in the south.

• Italy became a nation state in 1861, under King Vittorio Emanuele II, and has been a democratic republic since 1946, when the monarchy was abolished by popular referendum. The parliament consists of two houses, the Senate (315 seats) and the Chamber of Deputies (630 seats); both sit for ﬁve-year terms of ofﬁce and are elected by a system of proportional representation. The president is elected for a sevenyear term by a joint session of parliament and regional representatives. Real power, however, lies with the prime minister, who is generally the leader of the party with the biggest majority in the Chamber of Deputies.

| INTRODUCTION | WHE RE TO GO | W HE N TO GO

Giambologna’s Oceano, the Bargello, Florence

Fact file

• Italy’s population is just over 59 million, over 4 million of whom live in the capital, Rome. The country is divided geographically and administratively into 15 regions and 5 autonomous regions. • The average family has 1.27 children – the lowest birth rate in Europe – and 20 percent of the population is over 55. • The average Italian eats 25 kilos of pasta annually, and the nation drinks a staggering 14 billion cups of coffee every year.

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Positano

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Mountains, too, run the country’s length – from the Alps and Dolomites in the north right along the Apennines, which form the spine of the peninsula. Skiing and other winter sports are practised avidly, and wildlife of all sorts thrives in the national parks.

Where to go he north and central parts of the country are the most “discovered” parts of Italy. The regions of Piemonte and Lombardy, in the northwest, make up the country’s richest and most cosmopolitan region, and the two main centres, Turin and Milan, are its wealthiest cities. In their southern reaches, these regions are ﬂat and scenically dull, especially Lombardy, but in the north the presence of the Alps shapes the character of each: skiing and hiking are prime activities, and the lakes and mountains of Lombardy are time-honoured tourist territory. Liguria, the small coastal province to the south, has long been known as the “Italian Riviera” and is accordingly crowded with sun-seekers for much of the summer. Nonetheless, it’s a beautiful stretch of coast, and its capital, Genoa, is a vibrant, bustling port town with a long seafaring tradition.

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Much of the most dramatic mountain scenery lies within the smaller northern regions. In the far northwest, the tiny bilingual region of Valle d’Aosta is home to some of the country’s most frequented ski resorts, and is bordered by the tallest of the Alps – the Matterhorn and Mont Blanc. In the northeast, Trentino-Alto Adige, another bilingual region and one in which the national boundary is especially blurred, marks the beginning of the Dolomites mountain range, where Italy’s largest national park, the Stelvio, lies amid some of the country’s most memorable landscapes. The Dolomites stretch into the northeastern regions of the Veneto and Friuli-Venezia Giulia. However, here the main focus of interest is, of course, Venice: a unique city, and every bit as beautiful as its reputation would suggest (although this means you won’t be alone in appreciating it). If the crowds are too much, there’s also the arc of historic towns outside the city – Verona, Padua and Vicenza, all centres of interest in their own right, although rather overshadowed by their illustrious neighbour. To the south, the region of Emilia-Romagna was at the heart of Italy’s postwar industrial boom and enjoys a standard of living on a par with Piemonte and Lombardy, although it’s also a traditional stronghold of the Italian Left. Its coast is popular among Italians, and Rimini is about Italy’s brashest (and trendiest) seaside resort, renowned for its nightlife. You may do better to ignore the beaches altogether, however, and concentrate on the ancient centres of Ravenna, Ferrara, Parma and the regional capital of Bologna, one of Italy’s liveliest, most historic but least appreciated cities – and traditionally Italy’s gastronomic and academic capital.

Art Italy’s artistic heritage is a huge part of its appeal. Northern Italy on the whole has the country’s richest crop, but wherever you’re travelling, even the smallest country church can boast a masterpiece or two; remote monasteries and small country towns can hold enticing museums; and the big-city galleries – the Ufﬁzi in Florence, Milan’s Brera, too many to mention in Rome – are stacked full of beautiful paintings and sculptures. Like food, you can ﬁnd different styles – and the work of different artists – in distinct regions. Of the country’s ancient art, the most obvious draws are the Roman mosaics and murals of Pompeii and Herculaneum, and the earlier funereal sculpture and applied arts of the Etruscans of northern Lazio. Siena was home to some of the earliest Gothic stylists of the fourteenth century; Florence bloomed most brightly during the Renaissance of the ﬁfteenth century, and Rome’s most characteristic style is the later Baroque look of the Counter Reformation. Venice, not surprisingly, is the place to see the works of the great Venetian painters, Titian and Tintoretto. Your only problem will be ﬁnding the time to take it all in.

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The taste of real Italian ice cream, eaten in Italy, is absolutely unbeatable. Gelato, as it’s known, is the country’s favourite dessert, and there’s no better way to end a day, as Italians do, than with a stroll through the streets sampling a JHODWR while enjoying the cool of the evening. Italian ice cream really is better than any other, and like most Italian food this is down to the local insistence on using whole milk and eggs, and adding only naturally derived ﬂavours. Everywhere but the tiniest village will have at least one gelateria, and many cafés serve ice cream as well. If you want to sample the very best, look for the signs saying “DUWLJLDQDOH”, which means that the ice cream is produced according to strictly traditional methods, or “SURGX]LRQHSURSULD”, which means it’s home-made. There’s usually a veritable cornucopia of ﬂavours (JXVWL) to choose from, from those regarded as the classics – like lemon (OLPRQH) and hazelnut (QRFFLROD) – through staples including vanilla with chocolate chips (VWUDFFLDWHOOD) and strawberry (IUDJROD), to house specialities that might include cinnamon (FDQHOOD), chocolate with chilli pepper (FLRFFRODWRFRQSHSHURQFLQR) or even pumpkin (]XFFD).

Central Italy represents perhaps the most commonly perceived image of the country, and Tuscany, with its classic rolling countryside and the art-packed towns of Florence, Pisa and Siena, to name only the three best-known, is one of its most visited regions. Neighbouring Umbria is similar in all but its tourist numbers, though it gets busier every year, as visitors ﬂock into towns such as Perugia, Spoleto and Assisi. Further east still, Le Marche has gone the same way, with old stone cottages being turned into foreignowned holiday homes; the highlights of the region are the ancient towns of Urbino and Áscoli Piceno. South of Le Marche, the hills begin to pucker into mountains in the twin regions of Abruzzo and Molise, one of Italy’s Aperitivo hour in Florence

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Ice cream

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The Arena, Verona

remotest areas, centring on one of the country’s highest peaks – the Gran Sasso d’Italia. Molise, particularly, is a taster of the south, as is Lazio to the west, in part a poor and sometimes desolate region whose often rugged landscapes, particularly south of Rome, contrast with the more manicured beauty of the other central regions. Lazio’s real focal point, though, is Rome, Italy’s capital and the one city in the country that owes allegiance neither to the north or south. Rome is a tremendous city quite unlike any other, and in terms of historical sights outstrips everywhere else in the country by some way. The south proper begins with the region of Campania. Its capital, Naples, is a unique, unforgettable city, the spiritual heart of the Italian south, and close to some of Italy’s ﬁnest ancient sites in Pompeii and Herculaneum, not to mention the country’s most spectacular stretch of coast around Amalﬁ. Basilicata and Calabria, which make up the instep and toe of Italy’s boot, are harder territory but still rewarding, the emphasis less on art, more on the landscape and quiet, relatively unspoilt coastlines. Puglia, the “heel” of Italy, has underrated pleasures, too, notably the landscape of its Gargano peninsula, the souk-like qualities of its capital, Bari, and the Baroque glories of Lecce in the far south. As for Sicily, the island is really a place apart, with a wide mixture of attractions ranging from some of the ﬁnest preserved Hellenistic treasures in Europe, to a couple of Italy’s most appealing beach

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When to go taly’s climate is one of the most hospitable in the world, with a general pattern of warm, dry summers and mild winters. There are, however, marked regional variations, ranging from the more temperate northern part of the country to the ﬁrmly Mediterranean south. Summers are hot and dry along the coastal areas, especially as you move south, cool in the major mountain areas – the Alps and Apennines. Winters are mild in the south of the country, Rome and below, but in the north they can be at least as cold as anywhere in the northern hemisphere, sometimes worse, especially across the plains of Lombardy and Emilia-Romagna, which can be very inhospitable indeed in January. As regards when to go, if you’re planning to visit popular areas, especially beach resorts, avoid July and especially August, when the weather can be too hot and the crowds at their most congested. In August, when most Italians are on holiday, you can expect the crush to be especially bad in the resorts, and the scene in the major historic cities – Rome, Florence, Venice – to be slightly artiﬁcial, as the only people around are fellow tourists. The nicest time to visit, in terms of the weather and lack of crowds, is April to late June, and in

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Val Pusteria, Trentino-Alto Adige

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resorts in Taormina and Cefalù, not to mention some gorgeous upland scenery. Come this far south and you’re closer to Africa than Milan, and it shows in the climate, the architecture and the cooking, with couscous featuring on many menus in the west of the island. Sardinia, too, feels far removed from the Italian mainland, especially in its relatively undiscovered interior, although you may be content just to laze on its ﬁne beaches, which are among Italy’s best.

Best of Italy

Activities Gran Paradiso trek, Valle d’Aosta. See p.92 Hiking the Alta Via, Liguria. See p.120 Windsurﬁng around Riva del Garda, Lombardy. See p.207 Climbing the vie ferrate, Trentino-Alto Adige. See p.220 Kitesurﬁng, Porto Pollo, Sardinia. See p.976 Natural wonders Toirano caves, Liguria. See p.118 Grotta Gigante, Friuli-Venezia Giulia. See p.355 Piano Grande, Umbria. See p.565 Vesuvius, Campania. See p.761 Strómboli, Sicily. See p.900 Roman sights Verona’s Arena, Veneto. See p.328 The Pantheon, Rome. See p.636 Villa Adriana, Lazio. See p.683 Pompeii and Herculaneum, Campania. See p.759 & p.761 Villa Romana del Casale, Sicily. See p.932

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Travellers have always been drawn to Italy, whether it’s for the landscape, the food or the history – our favourite ways to spend your time are below. For our deﬁnitive list of the highlights you really shouldn’t miss, see pp.15–24.

Beaches Lévanto, Liguria. See p.131 Santa Maria di Castellabate, Campania. See p.792 Torre Guaceto, Puglia. See p.827 San Vito Lo Capo, Sicily. See p.939 La Pelosa, Sardinia. See p.979 Scenic drives Porto to Pieve, Lake Garda, Lombardy. See p.207 Great Dolomites Road, Trentino-Alto Adige. See p.249 The Chiantigiana, Tuscany. See p.458 Amalﬁ Coast road, Campania. See p.781 Alghero to Bosa, Sardinia. See p.966 Unspoiled towns Ferrara, Emilia-Romagna. See p.397 Pienza, Tuscany. See p.511 Urbino, Le Marche. See p.581 Lecce, Puglia. See p.830 Matera, Basilicata. See p.845 Foodie destinations Alba, Piemonte. See p.83 Genoa, Liguria. See p.113 Bologna, Emilia-Romagna. See p.382 Norcia, Umbria. See p.564 Naples, Campania. See p.754

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Sardinian beach life

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September or October. If you’re planning to swim, however, bear in mind that only the south of the country is likely to be warm enough outside the May to September period. Average daily temperatures and rainfall Jan

Feb

Mar

Apr

May

Jun

Jul

Aug

Sep

Oct

Nov

Dec

11/3 51

13/3 55

16/6 74

18/8 24/12 27/17 32/18 32/19 27/15 21/12 15/7 78 76 72 44 48 82 102 80

11/4 76

7/-3 63

9/-2 62

14/2 78

17/5 23/10 27/14 28/17 28/17 23/12 18/7 98 78 85 65 67 86 74

12/2 96

3/-2 96

12/4 92

13/5 83

16/7 75

19/9 25/14 27/17 29/18 29/18 27/17 24/13 18/19 68 45 48 18 22 68 130 110

13/7 138

14/7 70

14/7 45

17/8 20/12 25/15 28/19 29/21 30/22 27/18 25/15 20/12 17/10 50 50 20 10 5 20 42 75 70 60

13/4 103

14/4 98

16/6 68

Florence Max/min (ºC) rainfall (mm) Milan Max/min (ºC) rainfall (mm) Naples Max/min (ºC) rainfall (mm) Palermo Max/min (ºC) rainfall (mm) Rome Max/min (ºC) rainfall (mm)

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18/8 24/13 27/16 28/18 29/18 26/17 23/13 18/8 65 48 34 23 33 68 94 128

13/5 110

things not to miss

It’s not possible to see everything that Italy has to offer in one trip – and we don’t suggest you try. What follows is a selective taste, in no particular order, of the country’s highlights: outstanding buildings and ancient sites, spectacular natural wonders, great food and idyllic beaches. They’re arranged in ﬁve colour-coded categories, which you can browse through to ﬁnd the very best things to see and experience. All entries have a page reference to take you straight into the guide, where you can ﬁnd out more.

&HQWURVWRULFR5RPH Page 634 • There’s so much to see in Rome that aimlessly wandering the city’s fantastic old centre can yield a surprise at every turn, whether it’s an ancient statue, a marvellous Baroque fountain or a bustling piazza.

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$JULWXULVPL Page 37 • Farmstays and rural retreats are one of Italy’s lesser-known specialities and can be among the country’s most spectacular and bucolic places to stay. :LQHEDUV See Italian food and wine colour section • Italian wine is undergoing a resurgence, and there’s nothing like sampling local varieties in an enoteca or wine bar, accompanied by a plate of regional cheese and cold meats.

04

/HFFH Page 830 • This exuberant city of Baroque architecture and opulent churches is one of the must-sees of the Italian South.

03

'XRPR0LODQ Page 152 • The world’s largest and – from the outside at least – most attention-grabbing Gothic cathedral.

05

8UELQR Page 581 • This so-called “ideal city” and art capital, created by Federico da Montefeltro, the ultimate Renaissance man, is one of the most memorable of all Italian provincial cities.

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3LD]]D6DQ0DUFR 9HQLFH Page 275 • Crowded or not, this is one of Europe’s grandest urban spaces and home to Italy’s most exotic cathedral.

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17

3RPSHLLDQG +HUFXODQHXP Page 759 & 761 • Probably the two best-preserved Roman sites in the country, destroyed and at the same time preserved by the eruption of Vesuvius in AD 79.

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5DYHQQDpVPRVDLFV Page 402 • Ravenna’s Byzantine mosaics – in the churches of Sant’Apollinare Nuovo and San Vitale – are a stunning testimony to the city’s ranking as the capital of Europe ﬁfteen hundred years ago.

08

6LHQDpV3DOLR Page 487 • Perhaps the most fanatically followed and most violent horse race in the world – an amazing spectacle and a true slice of Sienese life.

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'XRPR)ORUHQFH Page 430 • Florence’s cathedral dome is one of the most instantly recognizable images in the world – and one of its most signiﬁcant engineering feats.

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)RRGLQ (PLOLD 5RPDJQD Page 374 • This region is known as Italy’s gastronomic heart, home to Parma ham, parmesan cheese and balsamic vinegar – all of which are on view at Bologna’s marvellous indoor food market.

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&LQTXH7HUUH Page 129 • These ﬁve ﬁshing villages are shoehorned picturesquely into one of the most rugged parts of Liguria’s coastline and linked by a highly scenic coastal walking path.

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19

14

7KH/DVW6XSSHU0LODQ Page 160 • Leonardo da Vinci’s mural for the refectory wall of Santa Maria delle Grazie is one of the world’s most resonant images.

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(OED Page 474 • This easily accessible, mountainous Tuscan island offers great beaches and fantastic hiking.

16

7KH8IƂ]L)ORUHQFH Page 434 • One of Italy’s most celebrated collections of art, and – in a city not exactly short on things to see – Florence’s most essential attraction. 'XRPR2UYLHWR Page 574 • One of the country’s ﬁnest – and bestsited – cathedrals, with a marvellous fresco cycle by Luca Signorelli.

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20

6KRSSLQJ Page 166 • Italy’s a great place for a splurge, and where better than in fashion’s commercial home, Milan.

17

*LRWWRpVIUHVFRHV3DGXD Page 314 • The artist’s frescoes in Padua’s Cappella degli Scrovegni constitute one of the great works of European art. 3DUFR 1D]LRQDOH Gp$EUX]]R Page 717 • Italy’s third-largest national park, and probably its wildest, with marvellous walking and wildlife.

20

7XVFDQKLOOWRZQV Page 417 • The classic proﬁle of a Tuscan hill-town is many people’s Italian ideal. Montepulciano, Montalcino and San Gimignano are some of the most beautiful.

21

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21

%DVLOLFD GL6DQ )UDQFHVFR $VVLVL Page 518 • The burial place of St Francis and one of Italy’s greatest church buildings, with frescoes by Giotto and Simone Martini.

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+LNLQJ LQWKH 'RORPLWHV Page 219 • The spiky landscape of the Dolomites is perfect hiking country, covered in dramatic long-distance trails.

23

7KH,WDOLDQ/DNHV Page 180 • If you can escape the hordes, this region is one of Italy’s most beguiling, with stunning scenery and plenty of activities from windsurﬁng to walking.

24

9DWLFDQ0XVHXPV5RPH Page 666 • The largest and richest collection of art and culture in the world. You’d be mad to miss it. 0DQWXD Page 173 • The Mantegna frescoes of Mantua’s Palazzo Ducale, and the works of Giulio Romano in the Palazzo Te, make a visit to this ancient and alluring Lombard city hard to resist.

27

0DWHUD Page 845 • A truly unique city, sliced by a ravine containing thousands of sassi – cave dwellings gouged out of the rock that were inhabited till the 1950s.

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6DUGLQLDpVEHDFKHV Page 949 • There are plenty of places to sun-worship in Italy, but Sardinia’s coastline ranks among one of the most beautiful. $PDOƂ&RDVW Page 781 • Everyone should see the stunning Amalﬁ Coast at least once in their life.

30

1HDSROLWDQSL]]D Page 754 • You can eat pizza all over Italy, but nowhere is it quite as good as in its home town of Naples, served sizzling-hot straight from a wood-ﬁred oven.

29

24

6LFLO\pV*UHHNUXLQV Page 905, 915 & 929 • The ancient theatres at Siracusa and Taormina are magniﬁcent summer stages for Greek drama, while the temple complex at nearby Agrigento is one of the ﬁnest such sites outside Greece itself.

31

Basics

25

Basics Getting there ............................................................................. 27 Getting around .......................................................................... 31 Accommodation........................................................................ 36 Food and drink .......................................................................... 41 The media ................................................................................. 44 Festivals .................................................................................... 45 Sports and outdoor pursuits ..................................................... 48 Shopping................................................................................... 49 Work and study in Italy ............................................................. 51 Travel essentials ........................................................................ 52

26

Flights from the UK and Ireland Of the scheduled airlines ﬂying the Italian routes, British Airways (BA) and Alitalia regularly serve most of the country including Turin, Milan, Rome, Bologna, Cagliari, Bari, Pisa, Verona, Venice, Naples and Catania. The majority of the routes are from London but they also ﬂy from Edinburgh, Manchester, Birmingham and Bristol. Aer Lingus has direct ﬂights from Dublin to Milan, Bologna, Rome, Catania, Venice and Naples, as well as Cork and Belfast to Rome. Of the low-cost carriers, easyJet, Thomson, Jet2, ﬂybe and Ryanair ﬂy from London and numerous smaller airports to bases throughout Italy and its islands. Prices depend on how far in advance you book and the popularity of the destination, although season is also a factor: a ticket to anywhere between June and September will cost more than in the depths of winter (excluding Christmas and New Year). Note also that it is generally more expensive to ﬂy at weekends. Book far enough in advance with one of the low-cost airlines and you can pick up a ticket for under £100 return, even in summer; book anything less than three weeks in advance and this could triple in price. Scheduled airline fares, booked within a month of travel, will cost around £120 out of season, and £250 in summer.

Flights from the US and Canada Between them Delta, Alitalia and American Airlines offer daily ﬂights from New York, Atlanta, Los Angeles, Miami and Chicago

| Getting there

The easiest way to get to Italy from the UK and Ireland is to ﬂy. The majority of ﬂights go to Milan and Rome, but many other cities and holiday destinations are served by scheduled ﬂights and low-cost carriers alike. From the US and Canada there are direct ﬂights to Milan and Rome, although you could consider ﬂying via London or another European hub and picking up a cheap onward ﬂight from there. There are no direct ﬂights to Italy from South Africa, Australia or New Zealand, but plenty of airlines ﬂy to Milan and Rome via Asian or European cities. Rail connections with the rest of Europe are also good and link well into the comprehensive national network.

BASICS

Getting there

to Rome and Milan; one short layover greatly extends the network. In addition, many European carriers ﬂy to Italy (via their capitals) from all major US and Canadian cities – for example British Airways (via London), Lufthansa (via Frankfurt), KLM (via Amsterdam), and so on. The direct scheduled fares don’t vary as much as you might think, and you’ll more often than not be basing your choice around things like ﬂight timings, routes and gateway cities, ticket restrictions, and even the airline’s reputation for comfort and service. The cheapest round-trip fares to Rome or Milan, travelling midweek in low season, start at around US$700 from New York or Boston, rising to around US$1200 during the summer. Add another US$100–200 for ﬂights from LA, Miami and Chicago. Note that these prices do not include taxes. Air Canada has ﬂights from Toronto to Rome for a low-season fare of Can$400 midweek, increasing to around Can$1000 in high season without taxes.

Flights from Australia, New Zealand and South Africa Return fares to Rome and Milan from the main cities in Australia go for A$1500–1850 in low season, and around A$2000 in high season. You are likely to get most ﬂexibility by travelling with Malaysian, Thai, British Airways or Qantas, which offer a range of discounted Italian tour packages and air passes. There are no direct ﬂights to Italy from New Zealand. Return fares to Rome from New Zealand cost from NZ$2500 depending on the season.

27

Four steps to a better kind of travel BASICS

| Getting there

At Rough Guides we are passionately committed to travel. We feel strongly that only through travelling do we truly come to understand the world we live in and the people we share it with – plus tourism has brought a great deal of beneﬁt to developing economies around the world over the last few decades. But the extraordinary growth in tourism has also damaged some places irreparably, and of course climate change is exacerbated by most forms of transport, especially ﬂying. This means that now more than ever it’s important to travel thoughtfully and responsibly, with respect for the cultures you’re visiting – not only to derive the most beneﬁt from your trip but also to preserve the best bits of the planet for everyone to enjoy. At Rough Guides we feel there are four main areas in which you can make a difference: • Travel with a purpose, not just to tick off experiences. Consider spending longer in a place, and getting to know it and its people. • Give thought to how often you ﬂy. Try to avoid short hops by air and more harmful night ﬂights. • Consider alternatives to ﬂying, travelling instead by bus, train, boat and even by bike or on foot where possible. • Make your trips “climate neutral” via a reputable carbon offset scheme. All Rough Guide ﬂights are offset, and every year we donate money to a variety of charities devoted to combating the effects of climate change.

Air New Zealand often has the best deals but KLM, British Airways, Qantas, JAL, Emirates, Malaysian and Thai can all be competitive if bought in advance. Various carriers serve South Africa, usually with a stop in their European or Middle Eastern hub. The best-value carriers are Etihad, Lufthansa and KLM, although BA, Turkish and South African Airways can be competitive if bought far enough in advance. Return fares start at around ZAR6500.

Trains

28

Travelling by train to Italy from the UK can be an enjoyable and environmentally friendly way of getting to the country, and you can stop off in other parts of Europe on the way. Trains pass through Paris and head down through France towards Milan. A standard-class return fare from London to Paris using Eurostar (2hr 15min) starts at £70; travelling by high-speed TGV from Paris to Milan (7hr 25min) costs from £95. Fares from Paris to both Rome (15hr) and Venice (13hr) start at £100 return per person in a six-berth couchette. Sleeper trains from France (see Artesia on p.30), head to Turin and Milan (7hr) or to Venice via Milan, Brescia, Verona, Vicenza and Padua (13hr) or to Rome via Piacenza, Parma, Bologna and Florence (15hr). Accommodation

is in four- and six-berth couchettes, and one-, two- and three-berth cabins – the more you pay, the fewer people you share with; women can opt to share with other women if they are travelling alone. All services have a restaurant car and a steward who looks after each carriage. Prices start around £100. If you really want to push the boat out, the Orient Express still runs from London to Venice, offering around 30 hours of pampered luxury starting from £1690, including all meals. Advance booking is essential (and can often save you quite a lot of money); there are also discounts for children and rail-pass holders. Take into account also that if you travel via Paris on Eurostar you will have to change stations, so you should give yourself a good hour (more like 1hr 30min if you have to queue for metro tickets) to travel on the metro from the Gare du Nord to the Gare de Lyon (for daytime services) or the Gare de Bercy (for sleeper trains). Allow more time for the return journey across Paris, as there is a minimum thirty-minute check-in for Eurostar departures. Note that there are no left-luggage lockers at the Gare de Bercy. For details on all international rail tickets and passes, ask in person at major train stations, or at the Rail Europe Travel Centre at 1 Regent Street in London. You can also

book online through the agents on p.30. W www.seat61.com is useful for timetabling information.

InterRail InterRail passes (Wwww.interrail.net) are only available to those who have been resident in Europe for six months or more and are not valid in the country of residence. They come in ﬁrst- and second-class over-26 and (cheaper) under-26 versions. The passes are available to a combination of countries for 5 days within a ten-day period (£230 second class, £147 under-26), 10 days within a 22-day period (£331 second class, £220 under-26), 22 consecutive days (£432 second class, £285 under-26) or one month (£552 second class, £368 under-26). InterRail passes do not include travel between Britain and the Continent, although passholders are eligible for discounts on rail travel in Britain and Northern Ireland and cross-Channel ferries, as well as free travel on the Bríndisi–Patras ferry between Italy and Greece and the Villa San Giovanni–Messina crossing to Sicily.

Eurail A Eurail Pass (Wwww.eurail.com) is for non-European residents and comes in a variety of forms: Italy only, Italy with France, Greece or Spain, Italy with bordering countries or with 20 other European countries. The pass, which must be purchased before arrival in Europe, allows unlimited free ﬁrst-class train travel in combinations from 10 days to 3 months. A one-month over-26 pass costs €822 (under-26 €535). There are numerous small-group, youth and saver versions, and passes can be purchased online or from the agents listed under “Rail contacts” on p.30.

Airlines, agents and operators

| Getting there

InterRail and Eurail passes offer unlimited rail travel throughout Italy and other European countries, but must be bought before leaving home. See p.32 for details of Italy-only passes.

BASICS

Rail passes

phobia of ﬂying. National Express Eurolines do, however, have occasional bargain offers, and regular, ﬂexible tickets cost £115 to Milan or £135 to Rome, if booked a little in advance. The Milan service departs four times a week and takes around 20 hours; Rome adds a gruelling 10 hours to the trip. Busabout Explorer is a popular option with backpackers. There are various Italian tours available as well as Europe-wide hop-on hop-off services for around £300 per person.

As well as the travel agents offering ﬂightand-accommodation package deals, an increasing number of operators organize specialist holidays to Italy. These set up walking tours, art and archeology holidays, Italian food and wine jaunts, short breaks to coincide with opera festivals or even football matches. Finally, if you want to rent a car in Italy, it’s well worth checking with tour operators (and ﬂight agents) before you leave, as some ﬂy-drive deals work out very cheaply.

Airlines Aer Lingus Wwww.aerlingus.com. Air Canada Wwww.aircanada.com. Air New Zealand Wwww.airnz.co.nz. Alitalia Wwww.alitalia.com. American Airlines W www.aa.com. bmibaby Wwww.bmibaby.com. British Airways W www.ba.com. Delta Wwww.delta.com. easyJet W www.easyjet.com. Etihad Airways W www.etihadairways.com. flybe Wwww.ﬂybe.com. JAL (Japan Air Lines) W www.jal.com. Jet2 Wwww.jet2.com. KLM (Royal Dutch Airlines) Wwww.klm.com. Lufthansa Wwww.lufthansa.com. Malaysia Airlines W www.malaysia-airlines.com. Qantas Airways W www.qantas.com. Ryanair W www.ryanair.com. Thai Airways W www.thaiair.com. Thomson Whttp://ﬂights.thomson.co.uk.

Agents and tour operators Buses It’s difﬁcult to see why anyone would want to travel to Italy by bus, unless they had a

North South Travel UK T01245/608 291, Wwww.northsouthtravel.co.uk. Friendly, competitive travel agency, offering discounted fares worldwide.

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BASICS

| Getting there

Proﬁts are used to support projects in the developing world, especially the promotion of sustainable tourism. STA Travel UK T 0871/2300 040, US T1-800/ 781-4040, Australia T 134 782, New Zealand T 0800/474 400, South Africa T0861/781 781; Wwww.statravel.co.uk. Worldwide specialists in independent travel; also student IDs, travel insurance, car rental, rail passes, and more. Good discounts for students and under-26s. Trailfinders UK T 0845/058 5858, Ireland T 01/677 7888, Australia T 1300/780 212; Wwww.trailﬁnders.com. One of the best-informed and most efﬁcient agents for independent travellers. Travel CUTS Canada T 1-866/246-9762, US T 1-800/592-2887; W www.travelcuts.com. Canadian youth and student travel ﬁrm. USIT Ireland T 01/602 1906, Northern Ireland T 028/9032 7111; W www.usit.ie. Ireland’s main student and youth travel specialists.

Italy specialists Abercromie and Kent UK T 0845/618 2203, Wwww.abercrombiekent.co.uk. Luxury cultural holidays. Adventure Travel Company NZ T04/494 7180, W www.adventuretravel.co.nz. Hotels and car rental, plus walking and cycling tours in the Italian Lakes. Alternative Travel Group UK T01865/315 678, W www.atg-oxford.co.uk. Walking and cycling holidays. Backroads US T 1-800/462-2848 or 510/5271555, Wwww.backroads.com. Cooking, cycling and hiking holidays, including trips suitable for families. Central Holidays US T 1-800/539-7098, Wwww .centralholidays.com. Wide range of independent and escorted tours plus city breaks. CIT US & Canada T 1-800/387-0711, W www .cittours.ca. Well-organized coach and rail tours, plus advice for independent travellers on hotels and car rental.

30

Long Travel UK T01694/722193, Wwww .long-travel.co.uk. Well-established family company specializing in southern Italy, Sicily and Sardinia. Martin Randall Travel UK T020/8742 3355, Wwww.martinrandall.com. Cultural tours focusing on art, architecture, music, archeology, gastronomy and history. Mountain Travel–Sobek US T1-888/831-7526, Wwww.mtsobek.com. Hiking and special-interest tours around Italy. Walkabout Gourmet Adventures Australia T02/9871 5526, Wwww.walkaboutgourmet.com. Classy food, wine and walking tours throughout the country.

Rail contacts Artesia W www.artesia.eu. Eurail Wwww.eurail.com. European Rail UK T020/7619 1083, W www .europeanrail.com. Europrail International Canada T1-888/6679734, W www.europrail.net. Eurostar UK T0843/218 6186, Wwww .eurostar.com. International Rail T0871/231 0790, Wwww .international-rail.com. InterRail Wwww.interrailnet.com. Rail Europe UK T0844/848 4070, Wwww .raileurope.co.uk; US T1-800/622-8600, Canada T1-800/361-7245, Wwww.raileurope.com. Rail Plus Australia T1300/555 003, Wwww .railplus.com.au. The Man in Seat 61 W www.seat61.com.

Bus contacts Busabout UK T0845/026 7514, Wwww .busabout.com. Eurolines UK T0871/781 8181, W www .eurolines.com.

In terms of public transport, the easiest way of travelling around Italy is by train. The Italian train system is one of the least expensive in Europe, reasonably comprehensive, and, in the north of the country at least, pretty efﬁcient. It’s also far preferable over long distances to the fragmented, localized and sometimes grindingly slow bus service. Local buses, though, can be very efﬁcient, and where it’s actually a better idea to take a bus, we’ve made this clear in the text. Internal ﬂights are coming down in price and there are some good deals to be had on ﬂights to the islands. Ferries go to all the Italian islands, and also ply routes to Greece, Albania, Croatia, Malta, Slovenia, Corsica and Tunisia. We’ve detailed train, bus and ferry frequencies in the “Travel details” sections at the end of each chapter of the Guide; note that these refer to regular working-day schedules (Mon–Sat); services can be much reduced or even nonexistent on Sundays and in August.

| Getting around

Italy is a big country and unless you opt for a one-base holiday you will probably ﬁnd yourself travelling around a fair bit. The rail service is good value and relatively efﬁcient while regular ferries service the islands and local buses link more out-of-the-way areas. Internal ﬂights can be worthwhile for some of the longer journeys. Naturally, you’ll have most ﬂexibility with your own transport. Roads are well maintained in most of the country although trafﬁc can be heavy and autostrada tolls mount up. Off the main routes, most roads are quiet and pretty well maintained, making cycling a very pleasant – and very popular – means of getting around.

BASICS

Getting around

Italian cities with cities such as Paris, Vienna, Hamburg and Barcelona. A new high-speed Eurostar network, the Frecciarossa, Frecciabianca and Frecciargento (red, white and silver arrows), links Rome and Milan with strategic destinations across the country in record time. Reservations are required before you board the train for all of these services, even if you have a rail pass (see p.32). Diretto (D) and Interregionale (IR) trains are the common-or-garden long-distance expresses, calling only at larger stations. Although reservations are not required for these trains, it’s worth reserving seats if you’re making a long journey, especially in summer, when they can get very crowded. Reservations can be made at any major train station or travel agent in Italy, or via Trenitalia agents (see p.30). Lastly, there are the Regionale (R) services, which stop at every place with a population higher than zero. In addition to the routes operated by FS, there are a number of privately run lines, using separate stations but charging similar fares. Where they’re worth using, these are detailed in the Guide.

By rail Italian trains are run by Ferrovie dello Stato (FS; Wwww.ferroviedellostato.it), under the brand name Trenitalia (T89.20.21), operating a comprehensive network across the country with numerous types of trains. The Eurostar Italia (ES) runs between major cities, slightly faster and usually with newer rolling stock than the Intercity (IC) options. Eurocity (EC) and Euronight (EN) trains connect the major

Stamp it All stations have yellow validating machines in which passengers must stamp their ticket before embarking on their journey. Look out for them as you come onto the platform: if you fail to validate your ticket you’ll be given a hefty on-the-spot ﬁne.

31

Timetables and fares

BASICS

| Getting around

Timings and route information are posted up at train stations, and we give a rough idea of frequencies and journey times in the “Travel details” sections at the end of each chapter. If you’re travelling extensively it would be worth investing in a copy of the twice-yearly In Treno In Tutt’Italia timetable (€4.50), which covers the main routes and is sold at train-station newspaper stands. Fares are good value; they are calculated by the kilometre and easy to work out for each journey. The timetables give the prices per kilometre but as a rough guide, a second-class one-way fare for the six-hour trip from Rome to Milan currently costs about €48 by Interregionale and €90 on the three-hour Frecciarossa. Sleepers (cuccetta) are available on many longdistance services, and prices vary according to the length of journey and whether or not you’re sharing. Children aged 4–12 pay half price; under-4s (not occupying a seat) travel free. Return tickets are valid within two months of the outward journey, but as two one-way tickets cost the same it’s hardly worth bothering.

Rail passes A rail pass is unlikely to be worth your while for an Italy-only trip. Prices are low and as you need to have a reservation for the faster trains, the convenience of a pass is outweighed by the extra queues and booking fees. Italy-only passes are also available for 3 (£104 second class, £68 under-26), 4 (£128

second class, £83 under-26), 6 (£174 second class, £114 under-26) or 9 (£211 second class, £138 under-26) days. Europe-wide InterRail and Eurail passes (see p.29) for unlimited travel in Europe are, however, accepted on the Trenitalia network; children’s, youth (under-26) and group tickets are available.

By bus Trains don’t go everywhere and sooner or later you’ll probably have to use regional buses (autobus). Nearly all places are connected by some kind of bus service, but in out-of-the-way towns and villages schedules can be sketchy and are drastically reduced – sometimes nonexistent – at weekends, especially on Sundays. Bear in mind also that in rural areas schedules are often designed with the working and/or school day in mind – meaning a frighteningly early start if you want to catch that day’s one bus out of town, and occasionally a complete absence of services during school holidays. There’s no national bus company, though a few regional ones do operate beyond their own immediate area. Bus terminals are often conveniently located next to the train station; wherever possible we’ve detailed their whereabouts in the text, but if you’re not sure ask for directions to the autostazione. In smaller towns and villages, most buses pull in at the central piazza. Timetables are worth picking up from the local company’s ofﬁce, bus stations or on the bus. Buy tickets immediately before you travel from the bus station ticket ofﬁce,

Timetable reading

32

On timetables — and parking signs too — lavorativo or feriale is the word for the Monday to Saturday service, represented by two crossed hammers; and festivo means that a train runs only on Sundays and holidays, symbolized by a Christian cross. Some other common terms on timetables are: escluso sabato not including Saturdays si effettua ﬁno al… running until… si effettua dal… starting from… giornalmente daily prenotazione obbligatoria reservation obligatory estivo summer invernale winter

Walk/don’t walk

By car Travelling by car in Italy is relatively painless, though cities and their ring roads can be hard work. The roads are good, the motorway network very comprehensive, and the notorious Italian drivers rather less erratic than their reputation suggests. The best plan is to avoid driving in cities as much as possible; the congestion, proliferation of complex one-way systems and confusing signage can make it a nightmare. Bear in mind that trafﬁc can be heavy on main roads (particularly over public holiday weekends and the ﬁrst and last weekends of August) and appalling in city centres. Rush hour during the week usually runs from 7.30am to 9am and from 5pm to 9pm, when roads in and around the major cities can be gridlocked.

| Getting around

or on the bus itself; on longer hauls you can try to buy them in advance direct from the bus company, but seat reservations are not normally possible. If you want to get off, ask posso scendere?; “the next stop” is la prossima fermata. City buses are always cheap, usually costing a ﬂat fare of around €1. Tickets are available from a variety of sources, commonly newsagents and tobacconists, but also from anywhere displaying a sticker saying “tickets” or “biglietti”, including many campsite shops and hotel front desks. Once on board, you must validate your ticket in the machine at the front or back of the bus. The whole system is based on trust, though in most cities checks for fare-dodging are regularly made, and hefty spot-ﬁnes are levied against offenders. A useful site is Wwww.busstation.net/main /busita.htm, which has links to websites of hundreds of Italian bus companies.

BASICS

It’s worth bearing in mind that cars do not automatically stop at pedestrian crossings in Italy. Even on crossings with trafﬁc lights you can be subjected to some close calls. Note that when there’s a green light for pedestrians to go, it may be green for one of the lines of trafﬁc too.

Although Italians are by no means the world’s worst drivers they don’t win any safety prizes either. The secret is to make it very clear what you’re going to do – and then do it. A particular danger for unaccustomed drivers is the large number of scooters that can appear suddenly from the blind spot or dash across junctions and red lights with alarming recklessness. Most petrol stations give you the choice of self-service (Fai da te) or, for a few centesimi more per litre, someone will ﬁll the tank and usually wipe down the windscreen while they’re at it. Petrol stations often have the same working hours as shops, which means they’ll be closed for a couple of hours at noon, shut up shop at around 7pm and are likely to be closed on Sundays. Outside these times many have a self-service facility payable into a machine between the pumps by bank note or, more rarely, credit card; these are often not well advertised so you might need to go onto the forecourt to check.

Rules of the road Rules of the road are straightforward: drive on the right; at junctions, where there’s any ambiguity, give precedence to vehicles coming from the right; observe the speed limits – 50kph in built-up areas, 110kph on dual carriageways and 130kph on autostradas (for camper vans, these limits are 50kph, 80kph and 100kph respectively); and don’t drink and drive. Drivers need to have their dipped headlights on while using any road outside a built-up area. The centres of many Italian towns and villages have Zona Trafﬁco Limitato (ZTL; restricted trafﬁc areas) where vehicle access is for residents only. These zones are marked by a red-rimmed circular road sign giving the hours and days of the limitation and are vigorously enforced, often by police on the ground as well as by cameras. Note that car-hire companies invariably pass the ﬁne on. If your hotel is within one of these areas make sure the reception arranges a provisional transit permit with the local police. As regards documentation, if you’re bringing your own car, as well as current insurance, you need a valid driving licence and an international driving permit if you’re a non-EU licence holder. If you hold a UK

33

BASICS

| Getting around

pre-1991 driving licence you’ll need an international driving permit or to update your licence to a photocard version. It’s compulsory to carry your car documents and passport while you’re driving, and you can be ﬁned on the spot if you cannot present them when stopped by the police – not an uncommon occurrence. It’s also obligatory to carry a warning triangle and a ﬂuorescent jacket in case of breakdown. For more information consult W www.theaa.com.

Motorway driving All motorways (autostrade) are toll roads. Take a ticket as you join the motorway and pay on exit; the amount due is ﬂashed up on a screen in front of you. Paying by cash is the most straightforward option – booths are marked “cash/contanti” and colourcoded white. To pay by credit card follow the Viacard sign (colour-coded blue). Avoid the Telepass lane (colour-coded yellow), which is for drivers holding post-paid electronic cards. Be alert as you get into lane as trafﬁc zigzags in and out at high speed to get pole position at the shortest-looking queue. Rates aren’t especially high but they can mount up on a long journey. Since other roads can be frustratingly slow, tolls are well worth it over long distances, but be prepared for queues at exits at peak times.

Parking

34

Parking can be a problem. Don’t be surprised to see cars parked just about anywhere, notably on pavements, seemingly working tram lines and bus stops – it would be unwise to follow suit. Parking attendants are especially active in tourist areas and if you get fed up with driving around and settle for a space in a zona di rimozione (tow-away zone), don’t expect your car to be there when you get back. Most towns and villages have pay-anddisplay areas just outside the centre, but they can get very full during high season. An increasing number of towns operate a colour-coded parking scheme: blue-zone parking spaces (delineated by a blue line) usually have a maximum stay of one or two hours; they cost around €0.70–1.50 per hour (pay at meters, to attendants wearing

authorizing badges or buy scratch-cards from local tobacconists) but are sometimes free at lunchtimes, after 8pm and on Sundays. Meters can usually be fed the night before to allow a lie-in in the morning. Much coveted white-zone spaces (white lines) are free; yellow-zone areas (yellow lines) are reserved for residents. In smaller towns, to use the designated areas, it’s handy to have a mini clock-like dial which you set and display in the windscreen, to indicate when you parked and that you’re still within the allowed limit. Rental cars generally come equipped with these, and some tourist ofﬁces have them too. Car parks, usually small, enclosed garages, are universally expensive, costing up to €20 a day in big cities; it’s not unknown for hotels to state that they have parking and then direct you to the nearest paying garage. Parking at night is easier than during the day, but make sure you’re not parked in a street that turns into a market in the morning or on the one day of the week when it’s cleaned in the small hours, otherwise you’re likely to be towed. Never leave anything visible in the car when you’re not using it, including the radio. Certain cities have appalling reputations for theft – in Naples, some rental agencies won’t insure a car left anywhere except in a locked garage. A patrolled car park is probably the safest option for during the night, especially if you have foreign plates.

Breakdown If you break down, dial T116 and tell the operator where you are, the type of car you’re in, and your registration number: the nearest ofﬁce of the Automobile Club d’Italia (ACI) will send someone out to ﬁx your car – however, it’s not a free service and can work out very expensive if you need a tow. For this reason you might consider arranging cover with a motoring organization in your home country before you leave. Any ACI ofﬁce in Italy can tell you where to get spare parts for your particular car.

Car rental Car rental in Italy is pricey, especially in high season, at around €200–300 per week for a

Avis W www.avis.com. Budget W www.budget.com. Europcar Wwww.europcar.com. Hertz W www.hertz.com. Maggiore W www.maggiore.com. National W www.nationalcar.com. SIXT W www.sixt.com. Thrifty Wwww.thrifty.com.

Camper van rental Camper van or mobile home holidays are becoming increasingly popular in Italy and the rental market is opening up to meet the demand. To add to the obvious convenience of this type of holiday, facilities in campsites are usually dependable (see p.40), and more and more resorts have created free camper van parking areas (sosta camper). The following are just a selection of the companies offering new (or newish) quality vehicles for rent. Prices are usually around €900 for a four-berth vehicle for a week in high season, with unlimited mileage. Blu rent W www.blurent.com. Comocaravan Wwww.comocaravan.it. Magicamper W www.magicamper.com.

By plane In line with the rest of European airspace, internal airfares in Italy have been revolutionized in the last couple of years. Small companies have taken on the ailing state airline and what used to be a form of

Airlines Air Italy W www.airitaly.com. Airone Wwww.ﬂyairone.it. Alitalia Wwww.alitalia.it. Meridiana W www.meridiana.it. Windjet Wwww.volawindjet.it.

| Getting around

Car rental agencies

business transport has become a goodvalue, convenient way of getting around the country. Budget airlines open and close every season and there are often special deals being advertised; it pays to shop around and, as always, book as far in advance as you can.

BASICS

small hatchback, with unlimited mileage, if booked in advance. The major chains have ofﬁces in all the larger cities and at airports and train stations; addresses are detailed in the “Listings” sections at the end of city accounts throughout the Guide. Local ﬁrms can be less expensive and often have an ofﬁce at the airport, but generally the best deals are to be had by arranging things in advance, through one of the agents listed below or with specialist tour operators when you book your ﬂight or holiday. You need to be over 21 to rent a car in Italy and will need a credit card to act as a deposit when picking up your vehicle. Satellite navigation systems are available to rent with cars from many outlets; make sure to reserve in advance.

By ferry and hydrofoil Italy has a well-developed network of ferries and hydrofoils operated by a number of different private companies. Large car ferries connect the major islands of Sardinia and Sicily with the mainland ports of Genoa, Livorno, La Spezia, Civitavecchia, Fiumicino and Naples, while the smaller island groupings – the Trémiti islands, the Bay of Naples islands, the Pontine islands – are usually linked to a number of nearby mainland towns. The larger lakes in the north of the country are also well served with regular ferries in season, although these are drastically reduced in winter. Fares are reasonable, and on some of the more popular services – to Sardinia, for example – you should book well in advance in summer, especially if you’re taking a vehicle across. Remember, too, that sailings are cut outside the summer months, and some services stop altogether. You’ll ﬁnd a broad guide to journey times and frequencies in the “Travel details” section at the end of relevant chapters; for full up-to-date schedules and prices, check the Italian website Wwww.traghetti.com.

By bike and motorbike Cycling is a very popular sport and mode of transport in much of Italy. Italians in small towns and villages are welcoming to cyclists, and hotels and hostels will take your bike in overnight for safekeeping. On the islands, in the mountains, in major resorts and larger cities, it’s usually possible to rent a bike, but in rural areas rental facilities are few and far between.

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| Accommodation

Serious cyclists might consider staying at one of a chain of hotels that cater speciﬁcally for cycling enthusiasts. Each hotel has a secure room for your bike, a maintenance workshop, overnight laundry facilities, suggested itineraries and group-tour possibilities, a doctor on hand and even dietary consultation. Contact T 39/0541.307.531, Wwww.italybikehotels.it for further information. Bikes can be taken on local and slower inter-regional trains if you buy a supplemento bici (bike supplement) for around €4, or for free in a bike bag; on faster Eurostar or

equivalent trains cycles must be placed in bike bags. An alternative is to tour by motorbike, though again there are relatively few places to rent one. Mopeds and scooters are comparatively easy to ﬁnd: everyone in Italy, from kids to grannies, rides one of these and although they’re not really built for any kind of longdistance travel, for shooting around towns and islands they’re ideal; we’ve detailed outlets in the chapters. Crash helmets are compulsory, though in the south at least it’s a law that seems to be largely ignored.

Accommodation There is an inﬁnite variety of accommodation available in Italy, from mountain monasteries to boutique hotels, from youth hostels to self-catering villas, familyrun hotels and rural farmhouses. While rarely particularly cheap, standards are fairly reliable and accommodation is strictly regulated. Tourist ofﬁces have details of the ofﬁcial rates in their town or region. In popular resorts and the major cities booking ahead is advisable, particularly during July or August, while for Venice, Rome and Florence it’s pretty much essential to book ahead from Easter until late September and over Christmas and New Year. Make sure you get conﬁrmation of the booking by fax, email or letter – it’s far from uncommon to arrive and ﬁnd all knowledge of your booking is denied. The phrases on p.1041 should help you get over the language barrier, though in many places you

should be able to ﬁnd someone who speaks at least some English.

Hotels Hotels in Italy come tagged with a confusing variety of names, and, although the differences have become minimal, you will still ﬁnd a variety of names used for what are basically private hotel facilities. A locanda is historically the most basic option, although these days it is often used by boutique hotels and the like to conjure up images of simple,

Accommodation price codes

36

Hotels in this guide have been categorized according to the price codes outlined below. They represent the cheapest rates for a double room in high season (July & Aug), although in places like Florence and Venice you can expect high-season rates from March to the end of October. Huge discounts are often to be found online, especially if you’re staying three nights or more – check websites for current deals. 1 €60 and under 4 €121–150 7 €251–300 2 €61–90 5 €151–200 8 €301–400 3 €91–120 6 €201–250 9 €401 and over

Agriturismo

Bed and breakfasts Bed and breakfast schemes are becoming a very popular alternative form of accommodation, with attractive, good-value options becoming common. The best ones offer a real ﬂavour of Italian home life, though they’re not necessarily cheaper than an inexpensive hotel, and they rarely accept credit cards. Some places going under the name are actually little different from private rooms, with the owners not living on the premises, but you’ll invariably ﬁnd them clean and well maintained. The most recent

| Accommodation

traditional hospitality. Pensione, albergo or hotel are all commonly used. Rates vary greatly between the south and north of Italy, as well as between tourist hotspots and more rural areas. The ofﬁcial star system is based on facilities (TV in rooms, swimming pool, and so on) rather than character or comfort – or even price. In very busy places it’s not unusual to have to stay for a minimum of three nights, and many proprietors will add the price of breakfast to your bill whether you want it or not; try to ask for accommodation only – you can always eat more cheaply in a bar. Be warned, too, that in major resorts you will often be forced to take half or full board in high season. Note that people travelling alone may sometimes have to pay for the price of a double room even when they only need a single, though it can also work the other way round – if all their single rooms are taken, a hotelier may well put you in a double room but only charge the single rate.

BASICS

The agriturismo scheme, which enables farmers to rent out converted barns and farm buildings to tourists, has boomed in recent years. Usually these comprise a self-contained ﬂat or building, though a few places just rent rooms on a bed-andbreakfast basis. While some rooms are still annexed to working farms or vineyards, many are smart, self-contained rural vacation properties; attractions may include home-grown food, swimming pools and a range of activities from walking and riding to archery and mountain biking. Many agriturismi have a minimum-stay requirement of one week in busy periods. Rates start at around €120 per night for self-contained places with two bedrooms. Tourist ofﬁces keep lists of local properties; alternatively, you can search one of the growing number of agriturismo websites – there are hundreds of properties at Wwww .agriturismo.it, www.agriturismo.com, www.agriitalia.it and www.agriturist.it.

trend is for boutique B&Bs, often in stylishly revamped old palazzi. For an extensive list of Italy’s B&Bs check out Wwww.bbitalia.it, www.bbplanet.it and www.caffelletto.it.

Hostels There is a good network of private and HI hostels throughout the country. These range from family-friendly institutions on the edge of large cities to sociable towncentre backpacker-focused options. Rates at ofﬁcial HI hostels in Italy are around €18 per night for a dorm bed, while private citycentre establishments are usually closer to €25. You can easily base a tour of the country around them, although for two people travelling together they don’t always represent a massive saving on the cheapest double hotel room. If you’re travelling on your own, on the other hand, hostels are usually more sociable and can work out a lot cheaper; many have facilities such as inexpensive restaurants and self-catering kitchens that enable you to cut costs further. In a few cases, too – notably Castroreale in Sicily and Montagnana in the Veneto – the hostels are beautifully located and in many ways preferable to any hotel. HI hostels are members of the ofﬁcial International Youth Hostel Federation, and you’ll need to be a member of the organization in order to use them – you can join through your home country’s youth hostelling organization (see p.39) or often at the hostel on arrival. You need to reserve well ahead in the summer, most conveniently by using Wwww .hostelbookers.com or www.hostelworld.com.

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| Accommodation

In some cities, it’s also possible to stay in student accommodation vacated by Italian students for the summer. This is usually conﬁned to July and August, but accommodation is generally in individual rooms and can work out a lot cheaper than a straight hotel room. Again you’ll need to book in advance: we’ve listed possible places in the text, and you should contact them as far ahead as possible to be sure of a room.

Youth hostel associations Australia T02/9261 1111, W www.yha.org.au. Canada T 613/237-7884, Wwww.hihostels.ca. Ireland T 01/830 4555, Wwww.irelandyha.org. New Zealand T0800/278 299, W www.yha.co.nz. Northern Ireland T 028/9032 4733, Wwww.hini .org.uk. Scotland T0845/293 7373, Wwww.syha.org.uk. UK T 01629/592 700, Wwww.yha.org.uk. US T301/495-1240, Wwww.hiayh.org.

Monasteries and convents You will also come across accommodation operated by religious organizations –

convents (normally for women only), welcome houses and the like, again with a mixture of dormitory and individual rooms, which can sometimes be a way of cutting costs as well as meeting like-minded people. Most operate a curfew of some sort, and you should bear in mind that they don’t always work out a great deal cheaper than a bottom-line one-star hotel. Information can be found in the local tourist ofﬁces. An online agency, Monastery Stays (Wwww .monasterystays.com), offers a centralized booking service for more than two hundred and ﬁfty convents and monasteries around the country. There are no restrictions on age, sex or faith in the establishments they cover, all rooms have private bathrooms and few places have early curfews.

Self-catering Self-catering is becoming an increasingly feasible option for visitors to Italy’s cities. High prices mean that renting rooms or an apartment can be an attractive, cost-effective choice. Usually in well-located positions in city centres, and available for anything from a

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| Accommodation

couple of nights to a month or so, they come equipped with bedding and kitchen utensils, and there’s nothing like shopping for supplies in a local market to make you feel part of Italian daily life, even on a short break. If you’re not intending to travel around a lot it might be worth renting a villa or farmhouse for a week or two. Most tend to be located in the afﬂuent northern areas of Italy, especially Tuscany and Umbria, although attractive options are also available on Sicily and Sardinia and popping up in other rural locations too. They don’t come cheap, but are of a high standard and often enjoy marvellous locations.

Villa and apartment companies Bridgewater T 0161/787 8587, Wwww.bridge water-travel.co.uk. A company with over 25 years’ experience sourcing apartments, agriturismi and country hotels throughout Italy. Friendly Rentals T0800/520 0373, Wwww .friendlyrentals.com. Well-run company offering stylish properties in Milan, Florence and Rome to suit most budgets. Holiday Rentals Wwww.holiday-rentals.co.uk. This site puts you in touch directly with the owners of over a thousand Italian properties. Ilios Travel T0845/675 2601, Wwww.iliostravel .com. High-quality selection of country mansions and villas, in various parts of the country. Italian Breaks T 020/8666 0407, Wwww.italian breaks.com. Accommodation to suit most budgets. Italian Connection T 01424/728 900, Wwww .italian-connection.co.uk. Major upmarket operator with an array of villas and smart apartments throughout the country. Italian Homes T 020/3178 4180, Wwww .Italian-homes.com. Apartments in Venice, Rome and Florence. Livingitalia.com T 39.06.3211.0998, W www.livingitalia.com. Offers apartments in Florence and Rome.

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Owners’ Syndicate T020/7401 1086, Wwww .ownerssyndicate.co.uk. Properties throughout the country but specializing in Tuscany and Umbria. Unusual Villa & Island Rentals US T804/2882823, W www.unusualvillarentals.com. US company offering some spectacular properties in some of the most beautiful locations in Italy.

Mountain refuges If you’re planning on hiking and climbing, it’s worth checking out the rifugi network, consisting of about ﬁve hundred mountain huts, owned by the Club Alpino Italiano (CAI T02.205.7231, Wwww.cai.it). Non-members can use them for around €10 a night, though you should book at least ten days in advance. There are also private rifugi that charge around double this. Most are fairly spartan, with bunks in unheated dorms, but their settings can be magniﬁcent and usually leave you well placed to continue your hike the next day. Bear in mind that the word rifugio can be used for anything from a smart chalethotel to a snack bar at the top of a cable-car line. We’ve indicated in the text where this is the case.

Camping Camping is popular in Italy and there are plenty of sites, mostly on the coast and in the mountains, and generally open April to September (though winter “camping” – in caravans and camper vans – is common in ski areas). The majority are well equipped and often have bungalows, mainly with four to six beds. On the coast in high season you can expect to pay a daily rate of around €12 per person plus €10–15 per tent or caravan and €8 per vehicle. Local tourist ofﬁces have details of nearby sites, or visit Wwww .camping.it.

Restaurants Traditionally, a trattoria is a cheaper and more basic purveyor of home-style cooking (cucina casalinga), while a ristorante is more upmarket, though the two are often interchangeable. Osterie are common too, basically an old-fashioned restaurant or pub-like place specializing in home cooking, though some upmarket places with pretensions to established antiquity borrow the name. A pizzeria is always best with a forno a legna (wood-burning oven) rather than an electric one. In mid-range establishments, pasta dishes go for €5–12, while the main ﬁsh or meat courses will normally cost between €7 and €15.

The menu Traditionally, lunch (pranzo) and dinner (cena) start with antipasto (literally “before the meal”), a course consisting of various cold

No smoking Smoking is banned in all enclosed public spaces in Italy. Any restaurant or bar that wants to allow smoking has to follow very stringent rules in isolating a separate room – including doors and special air conditioning. Needless to say this is beyond the pocket of most places and so the majority remain no-smoking throughout. Don’t worry, though, if you do want a puff with your coffee; the pavement outside has become a popular place to light up.

cuts of meat, seafood and vegetable dishes, generally costing €5–12. Some places offer self-service antipasto buffets. The next course, the primo, involves soup, risotto or pasta, and is followed by the secondo – the meat or ﬁsh course, usually served alone, except for perhaps a wedge of lemon or tomato. Fish will often be served whole or by weight – 250g is usually plenty for one person – or ask to have a look at the ﬁsh before it’s cooked. Note that by law, any ingredients that have been frozen need to be marked (usually with an asterix and “surgelato”) on the menu. Vegetables or salads – contorni – are ordered and served separately, and there often won’t be much choice: potatoes will usually come as fries (patate fritte), but you can also ﬁnd boiled (lesse) or roast (arrostite) potatoes, while salads are either green (verde) or mixed (mista) and vegetables (verdure) usually come very well boiled. Afterwards, you nearly always get a choice of fresh local fruit (frutta) and a selection of desserts (dolci) – sometimes just ice cream or macedonia (fresh fruit salad), but often home-made items, like apple or pear cake (torta di mela/pera), tiramisù, or zuppa inglese (triﬂe). Cheeses (formaggi) are always worth a shot if you have any room left; ask to try a selection of local varieties. You will need quite an appetite to tackle all these courses and if your stomach — or wallet — isn’t up to it, it’s perfectly acceptable to have less. If you’re not sure of the size of the portions, start with a pasta or rice dish and ask to order the secondo when you’ve ﬁnished the ﬁrst course. And, although it’s not a very Italian thing to do, don’t feel shy about just having an antipasto

| Food and drink

The importance Italians attach to food and drink makes any holiday in the country a treat for the taste buds. The southern Italian diet especially, with its emphasis on olive oil, fresh and plentiful fruit, vegetables and ﬁsh, is one of the healthiest in Europe, and there are few national cuisines that can boast so much variety in both ingredients and cooking methods. Italy’s wines, too, are among the ﬁnest and most diverse in Europe. For more on the regional variety in cooking, see the “regional food and drink” boxes at the beginning of each chapter and the “Italian food and wine” colour section.

BASICS

Food and drink

41

There’s a detailed menu reader of Italian terms on pp.1042–1045.

BASICS

| Food and drink

and a primo; they’re probably the best way of trying local specialities anyway. At the end of the meal ask for the bill (il conto); bear in mind that almost everywhere you’ll pay a cover charge (coperto) of €1–5 a head. In many trattorias the bill amounts to little more than an illegible scrap of paper; if you want to check it, ask for a receipt (ricevuta). In more expensive places, service (servizio) will often be added on top of the cover charge, generally about 10 percent. If it isn’t included leave what you feel is appropriate for the service you received – up to 10 percent.

Breakfast Most Italians start their day in a bar, their breakfast (prima colazione) consisting of a coffee and a brioche or cornetto – a croissant often ﬁlled with jam, custard or chocolate, which you usually help yourself to from the counter and eat standing at the bar. It will cost between €1.30 and €1.60; note that it will cost more if you sit down (see “Where to drink”, p.43). Breakfast in a hotel is all too often a limp affair of watery coffee, bread and processed meats, often not worth the price.

Pizza and snacks

42

Pizza is obviously a worldwide phenomenon, but Italy remains the best place to eat it. Here pizza usually comes thin and ﬂat, not deep-pan, and the choice of toppings is fairly limited, with none of the dubious pineapple and sweetcorn variations. For a quality pizza opt for somewhere with a wood-ﬁred oven (forno a legna) rather than a squeaky-clean electric one, so that the pizzas arrive blasted and bubbling on the surface and with a distinctive charcoal taste. This adherence to tradition means that it’s unusual to ﬁnd a good pizzeria open at lunchtime; it takes hours for a wood-ﬁred oven to heat up to the necessary temperature. Pizzerias range from a stand-up counter selling slices (pizza al taglio) to a fully ﬂedged sit-down restaurant, and on the whole they

don’t sell much else besides pizza, soft drinks and beer. A basic cheese and tomato margherita costs around €6, a fancier variety €6–10, and it’s quite acceptable to cut it into slices and eat it with your ﬁngers. Consult our food glossary (see pp.1042–1045) for the different varieties. For a lunchtime snack sandwiches (panini) can be pretty substantial, a bread stick or roll packed with any number of ﬁllings. A sandwich bar (paninoteca) in larger towns and cities, and in smaller places a grocer’s shop (alimentari), will normally make you up whatever you want. Bars may also offer tramezzini, ready-made sliced white bread with mixed ﬁllings. Other sources of quick snacks are markets, where fresh, ﬂavoursome produce is sold, often including cheese, cold meats, warm spit-roast chicken, and arancini, deepfried balls of rice with meat (rosso) or butter and cheese (bianco) ﬁlling. Bread shops (panetteria) often serve slices of pizza or focaccia (bread with oil and salt topped with rosemary, olives or tomato). Supermarkets, also, are an obvious stop for a picnic lunch: larger branches are on the outskirts of cities, while smaller supermarkets can be found in town centres.

Vegetarians and vegans The quality of fruit and vegetables in Italy is excellent, with local, seasonal produce available throughout the country. There are numerous pasta sauces without meat, some superb vegetable antipasti and, if you eat ﬁsh and seafood, you should have no problem at all. Salads, too, are fresh and good. Outside the cities and resorts, you might be wise to check if a dish has meat in it (C’è carne dentro?) or ask for it “senza carne e pesce” to make sure it doesn’t contain poultry or prosciutto. Vegans will have a much harder time, though pizzas without cheese (marinara – nothing to do with ﬁsh – is a common option) are a good stand-by and vegetable soup (minestrone) is usually just that.

Drinks Although un mezzo (half-litre carafe of house wine) is a standard accompaniment to a meal, there’s not a great emphasis on dedicated

Traditional bars are less social centres than functional places and are all very similar to each other – brightly lit places, with a counter, a Gaggia coffee machine and a picture of the local football team on the wall. This is the place to come for a coffee in the morning, a quick beer or a cup of tea – people don’t generally idle away evenings in bars. Indeed in some more rural areas it’s difﬁcult to ﬁnd a bar open much after 8pm. It’s cheapest to drink standing at the counter, in which case you pay ﬁrst at the cash desk (la cassa), present your receipt (scontrino) to the barperson and give your order. There’s always a list of prices (listino prezzi) behind the bar and it’s customary to leave a small coin on the counter as a tip. If there’s waiter service, just sit where you like, though bear in mind that to do this will cost up to twice as much as positioning yourself at the bar, especially if you sit outside (fuori) – the difference is shown on the price list as tavola (table) or terrazzo (any outside seating area). Late-night bars and pubs rarely operate on the scontrino system; you may be asked to pay up front, in the British manner, or be presented with a bill. If not, head for the counter when you leave – the barperson will have kept a surprisingly accurate tally. An osteria can be a more congenial setting, often a traditional place where you can try local specialities with a glass of wine. Real enthusiasts of the grape should head for an enoteca, though many of these are more oriented towards selling wine by the case than by the glass. Cities offer a much greater variety of places to sit and drink in the evening, sometimes with live music or DJs. The more energetic or late-opening of these have taken to calling themselves pubs, a spill-over from the success of Irish pubs, at least one of which you’ll ﬁnd, packed to the rafters, in almost every city.

Always excellent, coffee can be taken small and black (espresso, or just caffè), which costs around €1 a cup, or white and frothy (cappuccino, for about €1.30), but there are scores of variations. If you want your espresso watered down, ask for a caffè lungo or, for something more like a ﬁlter coffee, an Americano; with a drop of milk is caffè macchiato; very milky is caffè latte (ordering just a “latte”, New York café style, will get you a glass of milk). Coffee with a shot of alcohol – and you can ask for just about anything – is caffè corretto. Many places also serve decaffeinated coffee; in summer you might want to have your coffee cold (caffè freddo). If you’re not up for a coffee, there’s always tea. In summer you can drink this cold, too (tè freddo) – excellent for taking the heat off. Hot tea (tè caldo) comes with lemon (con limone) unless you ask for milk (con latte). A small selection of herbal teas (infusioni) are generally available: camomile (camomilla) and peppermint (menta) are the most common.

| Food and drink

Where to drink

Coffee and tea

BASICS

drinking in Italy. Public drunkenness is rare, young people don’t devote their nights to getting wasted, and women especially are frowned on if they’re seen to be overindulging. Nonetheless there’s a wide choice of alcoholic drinks available, often at low prices. Soft drinks, crushed-ice drinks and, of course, mineral water are widely available.

Soft drinks and water There are various soft drinks (analcolichi) to choose from. Slightly ﬁzzy, bitter drinks like San Bittèr or Crodino are common, especially at aperitivo time. A spremuta is a fresh fruit juice, squeezed at the bar, usually orange, lemon or grapefruit. There are also crushed-ice granitas, big in Sicily and offered in several ﬂavours, available with or without whipped cream (panna) on top. Otherwise you’ll ﬁnd the usual range of ﬁzzy drinks and concentrated juices: the homegrown Italian version of Coke, Chinotto, is less sweet and good with a slice of lemon. Tap water (acqua del rubinetto) is quite drinkable, and you won’t pay for a glass in a bar, though Italians prefer mineral water (acqua minerale) and drink more of it than any other country in Europe. It can be drunk either still (senza gas or naturale) or sparkling (con gas or frizzante), and costs about €1.30 a bottle in a bar.

Beer and spirits 43

Beer (birra) has become fashionable in recent years. It usually comes in one-third or

BASICS

| The media

two-third litre bottles, or on tap (alla spina), measure for measure more expensive than the bottled variety. A small beer is a piccola (20cl or 25cl), a larger one (usually 40cl) a media. The cheapest and most common brands are the Italian Moretti, Peroni and Dreher, all of which are very drinkable; if this is what you want, either state the brand name or ask for birra nazionale or birra chiara – otherwise you could end up with a more expensive imported beer. You may also come across darker beers (birra nera or birra rossa), which have a sweeter, maltier taste and in appearance resemble stout or bitter. All the usual spirits are on sale and known mostly by their generic names. There are also Italian brands of the main varieties: the best Italian brandies are Stock and Vecchia Romagna. A generous shot costs about €1.50, imported stuff much more. You’ll also ﬁnd fortiﬁed wines like Martini, Cinzano and Campari; ask for a Camparisoda and you’ll get a ready-mixed version from a little bottle; a slice of lemon is a spicchio di limone, ice is ghiaccio. You might also try Cynar – believe it or not, an artichoke-based sherry often drunk as an aperitif with water. There’s also a daunting selection of liqueurs. Amaro is a bitter after-dinner drink or digestivo, Amaretto much sweeter with a strong taste of almond, Sambuca a stickysweet aniseed concoction, traditionally served with a coffee bean in it and set on ﬁre

(though, increasingly, this is something put on to impress tourists). A shot of clear grappa is a common accompaniment to a coffee and can range from a warming palate cleanser to throat-burning ﬁrewater, while another sweet alternative, originally from Sorrento, is limoncello or limoncino, a lemon-based liqueur best drunk in a frozen vase-shaped glass. Strega is another drink you’ll see behind every bar, yellow, herb-and-saffronbased stuff in tall, elongated bottles: about as sweet as it looks but not unpleasant.

Wine From sparkling prosecco to deep-red chianti, Italy is renowned for its wines. However, it’s rare to ﬁnd the snobbery often associated with “serious” wine drinking. Light reds such as those made from the dolcetto grape are hauled out of the fridge in hot weather, while some full-bodied whites are drunk at near room temperature. In restaurants you’ll invariably be offered red (rosso) or white (bianco) – rarely rosé (rosato). Don’t be afraid to try the local stuff (ask for vino sfuso, or simply un mezzo – a half-litre – or un quarto – a quarter), sometimes served straight from the barrel, particularly down south. It’s often very good, and inexpensive at an average of around €5 a litre. Bottled wine is pricier but still very good value; expect to pay €9–20 a bottle in a mid-priced restaurant, and less than half that from a shop or supermarket. In bars you can buy a decent glass of wine for about €1–2.

The media Italy’s decentralized press serves to emphasize the strength of regionalism in the country. Local TV is popular, too, in the light of little competition from the national channels. If you know where to look, journalistic standards can be high but you might ﬁnd yourself turning to foreign TV channels or papers if you want an international outlook on events.

Newspapers 44

The Italian press is largely regionally based, with just a few newspapers available across

the country. The centre-left La Repubblica (Wwww.repubblica.it) and authoritative rightslanted Corriere della Sera (Wwww.corriere .it) are the two most widely read, published

and Rome you can sometimes ﬁnd papers on the day of publication. In remoter parts of the country it’s not unusual for papers to be delayed by several days.

TV and radio

| Festivals

Italian TV is appalling, with mindless quiz shows, variety programmes and chat shows squeezed in between countless advertisements. There are three state-owned channels – Rai 1, 2 and 3 – along with the channels of Berlusconi’s Mediaset empire – Italia 1, Rete 4, Canale 5 – and a seventh channel, Canale 7. Satellite television is fairly widely distributed, and three-star hotels and above usually offer a mix of BBC World, CNN and French-, German- and Spanishlanguage news channels, as well as MTV and Eurosport. The situation in radio is if anything even more anarchic, with the FM waves crowded to the extent that you continually pick up new stations whether you want to or not —Catholic Radio Maria pops up with an uncanny frequency. This means there are generally some good stations if you search hard enough, but on the whole the RAI stations are again the more professional – though even with them daytime listening is virtually undiluted Euro-pop.

BASICS

nationwide with local supplements, but originating in Milan. Provincial newspapers include La Stampa (W www.lastampa.it), the daily of Turin, and Il Messaggero (Wwww .ilmessaggero.it) of Rome – both rather stuffy, establishment sheets. Il Mattino (W www.ilmattino.it) is the more readable publication of Naples and the Campania area, while other southern editions include the Giornale di Sicilia and La Gazzetta del Sud. Many of the imprints you see on newsstands are the ofﬁcial mouthpieces for political parties: L’Unità (Wwww.unita.it) is the party organ of the former Communist Party, while La Padania is the press of the right-wing, regionalist Lega Nord party. The traditionally radical Il Manifesto has always been regarded as one of the most serious and inﬂuential sources of Italian journalism. Perhaps the most avidly read newspapers of all, however, are the specialist sports papers, most notably the Corriere dello Sport (W www.corrieredellosport.it) and the pink Gazzetta dello Sport (Wwww.gazzetta .it) – both essential reading if you want an insight into the Italian football scene. English-language newspapers can be found for around three times their home cover price in all the larger cities and most resorts, usually a day late, though in Milan

Festivals Whether for religious, traditional or cultural reasons, Italy has no shortage of festivals throughout the year, and at Christmas, Easter or during the summer months you are likely to come across at least one local festival celebrating an historic event, a patron saint’s day, a town’s local produce or some artistic talent. Recently there’s also been a revival of the carnival (carnevale), the last ﬂing before Lent, although the anarchic fun that was enjoyed in the past has generally been replaced by elegant, self-conscious affairs, with ingenious costumes and handmade masks. The main places to head for are Venice, Viareggio in Tuscany and Acireale in Sicily, although smaller towns also often put on a parade.

Perhaps the most widespread local event in Italy is the religious procession, which can be a very dramatic affair. Good Friday is celebrated in many towns and villages – particularly in the south – by parading models of Christ through the streets accompanied by white-robed, hooded ﬁgures singing penitential hymns. Many processions have strong pagan roots, marking important

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| Festivals 46

dates on the calendar and only relatively recently sanctiﬁed by the Church. Superstition and a desire for good luck are very much part of these events. Despite the dwindling number of practising Catholics in Italy, there has been a revival of pilgrimages over the last couple of decades. These are as much social occasions as spiritual journeys with, for example, as many as a million pilgrims travelling through the night, mostly on foot, to the Shrine of the Madonna di Polsi in the inhospitable Aspromonte mountains in Calabria. Sardinia’s biggest festival, the Festa di Sant’Eﬁsio, sees a four-day march from Cágliari to Pula and back, to commemorate the saint’s martyrdom. There are many festivals that evoke local pride in tradition. Medieval contests like the Palio horse race in Siena perpetuate allegiances to certain competing clans, while other towns put on crossbow, jousting and ﬂag-twirling contests, with marching bands in full costume accompanying the event with enthusiastic drumming. Far from staged affairs, these festivals are highly signiﬁcant to those involved, with ﬁerce rivalry between participants. Food-inspired feste are lower-key, but no less enjoyable affairs, usually celebrating the local speciality of the region to the accompaniment of dancing, music from a local brass band and noisy ﬁreworks at the end of the evening. There are literally hundreds of food festivals, sometimes advertised as sagre, and every region has them – look in the local papers or ask at the tourist ofﬁce during summer and autumn and you’re bound to ﬁnd something going on. Most are modest affairs, primarily aimed at locals and little publicized, but there are a few exceptions. The home-town pride that sparks off many of the food festivals also expresses itself in some of the arts festivals spread across Italy, particularly in the central part of the country – based in ancient amphitheatres or within medieval walls and occasionally marking the work of a native composer. Major concerts and opera are usually well advertised but also extremely popular, so you should book tickets well in advance. One other type of festival to keep an eye out for is the summer political shindigs, like

the Festa de l’Unità, advertised by posters all over the country. Begun initially to recruit members to the different political parties, they have become something akin to a village fete but with a healthy Italian twist. Taking place mainly in the evenings, the food tents are a great way to try tasty local dishes for a couple of euros, washed down by a cup of wine. There’s usually bingo going on in one corner, the sort of dancing that will make teenagers crimson with embarrassment and the odd coconut shy or the like. In larger towns these have become more sophisticated affairs with big-name national bands playing.

A festival calendar There are literally thousands of festivals in Italy and sometimes the best ones are those that you come across unexpectedly in the smaller towns. Some of the highlights are listed below – we’ve detailed more throughout the Guide. Note that dates change from year to year, so it’s best to contact the local tourist ofﬁce for speciﬁc details.

January Naples San Silvestro (New Year’s Eve). New Year is welcomed in by bangers and ﬁreworks on the streets and by throwing old furniture out of windows. Milan Epifania (Jan 6). Costumed parade of the Three Kings from the Duomo to Sant’Eustorgio, the resting place of the bones of the Magi. Rome Epifania (Jan 6). Toy and sweet fair in Piazza Navona, to celebrate the Befana, the good witch who brings toys and sweets to children who’ve been good, and coal to those who haven’t.

February Sicily Festa di Sant’Agata (Feb 3–5). Riotous religious procession in Catania. Carnevale (weekend before Lent). Carnival festivities in Venice (Wwww.venicecarnival.com), Viareggio (W www.ilcarnevale.com), Foiano della Chiana (Arezzo), Cento (Ferrara), plus many towns throughout Italy. Ivrea Battle of the Oranges. Carnival Sun–Shrove Tues. A messy couple of days when processions through the streets are an excuse to pelt each other with orange pulp. Wwww.carnevalediivrea.it. Agrigento Almond Blossom Festival (last two weeks of Feb). Colourful celebration of spring with folk music from around the world.

March

Nocera Tirinese Rito dei Battienti (Easter Sat). Macabre parade of ﬂagellants whipping themselves with shards of glass. Florence Lo Scoppio del Carro (Easter Day). A symbolic ﬁrework display outside the Duomo after Mass.

May Cocullo (L’Aquila) Festival of snakes (ﬁrst week of May). One of the most ancient Italian festivals celebrating the patron saint, San Domenico Abate, in which his statue is draped with live snakes and paraded through the streets. Gubbio Corsa dei Ceri (ﬁrst Sun). Three 20ft-high wooden ﬁgures, representing three patron saints, are raced through the old town by ceraioli in medieval costume. Camogli Fish festival of San Fortunato (second Sun). The patron saint of ﬁshermen is celebrated with plenty of fried ﬁsh, ﬁreworks and bonﬁres. Countrywide International Museum Day (mid-May). Museums throughout the country put on events and stay open all night to celebrate the international initiative. Countrywide International Wine Day (last Sun). Wine estates all over Italy open their cellars to the public. Siracusa Greek Drama festival (mid-May to mid-June). Classic plays performed by international companies in the spectacular ruins of the ancient Greek theatre. Alba Trufﬂe Festival (April 24–May 2). Month-long opportunity to sample local delicacies as well as parades and a donkey palio.

| Festivals

April

Siena Palio (July 2). Medieval bareback horse race in the Campo. Matera Festa della Madonna della Bruna (July 2). A statue of the town’s patron saint is paraded on a ﬂoat and then burned. Palermo Festino di Santa Rosalia (second week). A ﬁve-day street party to celebrate the city’s patron saint. Perugia Umbria Jazz Festival (second week). Wwww.umbriajazz.com. Bologna Porretta Soul Festival (third week). Wwww.porrettasoul.it. Santarcangelo di Romagna Festival Internazionale del Teatro in Piazza (mid-July). Contemporary performance in public spaces, just outside Rimini. W www.santarcangelofestival.com.

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Venice Su e zo per i ponti (fourth Sun of Lent). A non-competitive 13km orienteering event/pub crawl around town, “up and down the bridges”. Milan Salone Internazionale del Mobile (third week). The city becomes a showcase for the best of the world’s furniture and industrial design.

July

August Countrywide Ferragosto (Aug 15). National holiday with local festivals, water ﬁghts and ﬁreworks all over Italy. Siena (Aug 16). Second Palio horse race. Pésaro Rossini Opera Festival (mid-month). W www.rossinioperafestival.it. Ferrara Ferrara Buskers Festival (end Aug). Gathering of some of the world’s best street performers. Wwww.ferrarabuskers.com. Venice (end Aug). Start of the oldest International Film Festival in the world (Wwww.labiennale.org).

September Venice La Regata di Venezia (ﬁrst Sun). Gondola race in medieval costume along the Grand Canal. Verona (Sept 12). Street entertainment and general partying to celebrate the birthday of the town’s most famous lover, Juliet. Naples Festa di San Gennaro (Sept 15). Festival for the city’s patron saint with crowds gathering in the cathedral to witness the liquefaction of San Gennaro’s blood. San Giovanni Rotondo, Fóggia (Sept 23). Thousands of followers commemorate the death of Padre Pio.

October June Florence Calcio Storico Fiorentino (June 24). Medieval-style football match and other festivities to celebrate San Giovanni, the city’s patron saint. Verona Verona opera season (from late June). W www.arena.it. Positano (from late June). Amalﬁ Coast opera and chamber music festival.

Marino, Rome Sagra del Vino (ﬁrst weekend). One of the most famous among hundreds of wine festivals across the country, with fountains literally ﬂowing with wine. Trieste La Barcolana (second Sun). Boat race. Wwww.barcolana.it. Perugia Eurochocolate (third and fourth weekend). Italy’s chocolate city celebrates.

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Acqualagna, Pésaro Festa del Tartufo Bianco (last Sun). Beginning of a month-long white trufﬂe festival.

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November Countrywide Olive oil festivals all over Italy.

| Sports and outdoor pursuits

December Stiffe, L’Aquila Bethlehem in the Grotto (ﬁrst week). Life-size statues from the nativity scene are carried into a 650-metre-deep grotto and

positioned for the month among stalagmites and a natural waterfall. Suvereto, Livorno Festa del Cinghiale (Dec 1–10). A ten-day festival in honour of the wild boar. Milan Oh Bej, Oh Bej! (Dec 7). The city’s patron saint, Sant’Ambrogio, is celebrated with a huge street market around his church and a day off work and school for all. Santa Lucia (Dec 13). Milan opera season starts with an all-star opening night at La Scala. Orvieto Umbria Jazz Winter (end of month). W www.umbriajazz.com.

Sports and outdoor pursuits Spectator sports are popular in Italy, especially the hallowed calcio (football), and there is undying national passion for frenetic motor and cycle races. When it comes to participation, though, there isn’t the same compulsion to hit the hell out of a squash ball or sweat your way through an aerobics class after work as there is, say, in Britain or the States. Alternatively, the country’s natural advantages provide possibly the best scope for keeping trim in the most enjoyable ways possible. For visitors to Italy, the most accessible activities are centred on the mountains – where you can climb, ski, paraglide, raft, canoe or simply explore on foot or cycle – and the lake and coastal regions, with plenty of opportunities for swimming, sailing and windsurﬁng; Campania, Calabria and Sicily are particularly popular for scuba diving and snorkelling.

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Football – or calcio – is the national sport, followed fanatically by millions of Italians, and if you’re at all interested in the game it would be a shame to leave the country without attending a partita or football match. The season starts around the middle of August, and ﬁnishes in June. Il campionato (the championship) is split into four principal divisions, with the twenty teams in the Serie A being the most prestigious. Matches are normally played on Sunday afternoons, although Saturday, Sunday-evening and Monday games are becoming more common. See Wwww.lega-calcio.it for results, a

calendar of events and English links to the ofﬁcial team websites. Inevitably, tickets for Serie A matches are not cheap, starting at about €20 for “Curva” seats where the tifosi or hard-core fans go, rising to anything between €40 and €60 for “Tribuna” seats along the side of the pitch, and anything up to €100 for the more comfortable “Poltroncina”, cushioned seats in the centre of the Tribuna. Once at the football match, get into the atmosphere of the occasion by knocking back borghetti – little vials of cold coffee with a drop of spirit added. Italy’s chosen sport after football is basketball, introduced from the United States after World War II. Most cities have a team, and Italy is now ranked among the foremost in the world. The teams vying for the top spot are Montepaschi Siena, Lottomatica Virtus Roma, NGC Cantu, Armani Jeans Milan and CS Bologna. For more details on ﬁxtures and the leagues, see Wwww.eurobasket.com/italy/basketball.asp. In a country that has produced Ferrari, Maserati, Alfa Romeo and Fiat, it should come as no surprise that motor racing

With the Alps right on the doorstep, it’s easy to spend a weekend skiing or snowboarding from Milan, Turin or Venice. Some of the most popular ski resorts are Sestriere and Bardonecchia in Piemonte, Cervinia and Courmayeur in Valle d’Aosta, the Val Gardena and Val di Fassa in the stunning Dolomite mountains of Trentino-Alto Adige and the Veneto – home to one of Italy’s bestknown and most exclusive resorts, Cortina d’Ampezzo. Further south you can ski at the small resorts of Abetone and Amiata in Tuscany, Monte Vettore in Le Marche, Gran Sasso and Maiella in Abruzzo and on Mount Etna in Sicily. Contact the regional tourist ofﬁces for information about accommodation, ski schools and prices of lift passes. All of these mountain resorts are equally ideal as bases for summer hiking and

| Shopping

Outdoor pursuits

climbing, and most areas have detailed maps with itineraries and marked paths. For less strenuous treks, the rolling hills of Tuscany and Umbria make perfect walking and mountain-bike country and numerous tour operators offer independent or escorted tours throughout the region. Many tourist ofﬁces also publish booklets suggesting itineraries. If the heat of the summer lures you towards the extensive Italian coast you can expect to ﬁnd all the usual seaside resort activity and plenty of opportunities for sailing and windsurﬁng. Scuba diving is popular in Sicily and off most of the smaller islands – you can either join a diving school or rent equipment from one if you’re an experienced diver. You can get a guide and map suggesting sailing itineraries round the coast of southern Italy from the Italian State Tourist Ofﬁce (see p.57). Watersports aren’t just restricted to the coast and can be found in places such as lakes Como and Garda in the north and Trasimeno and Bolsena further south towards Rome. River canoeing, canyoning and rafting are popular in the mountain areas of the north of the country. Horseriding is becoming increasingly popular in rural areas and most tourist ofﬁces have lists of local stables (maneggio). Many agriturismi (see p.37) also have riding facilities and sometimes offer daily or weekly treks and night rides. Note that Italians rarely wear or provide riding hats.

BASICS

gives Italians such a buzz. There are grand prix tracks at Monza near Milan (home of the Italian Grand Prix) and at Ímola, where the San Marino Grand Prix is held. The other sport popular with participants and crowds of spectators alike is cycling. At weekends especially, you’ll often see a club group out, dressed in bright team kit, whirring along on their slender machines. The annual Giro d’Italia (W www.ilgiroditalia .it) in the second half of May is a prestigious event that attracts scores of international participants each year, closing down roads and creating great excitement.

Shopping There is no shortage of temptation for shoppers and souvenir-hunters in Italy. Visitors can take advantage of Italy’s traditional expertise in textiles, ceramics and leather and glassware in all price ranges; top-end Gucci garments, Murano glass or calfskin footwear are often on sale just round the corner from somewhere offering rustic ceramics or gastronomic farm products. Much of Italy’s manufacturing industry consists of small family-run companies. This has led to factory outlets opening across the

country, particularly for clothes and other textiles but also for pottery and glass; local tourist ofﬁces will be able to point you in the

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Clothing and shoe sizes Women’s clothing

BASICS

American British Continental

4 6 34

| Shopping

6 8 36

8 10 38

10 12 40

12 14 42

14 16 44

16 18 46

18 20 48

5 3 36

6 4 37

7 5 38

8 6 39

9 7 40

10 8 41

11 9 42

14 14 36

15 15 38

15.5 15.5 39

16 16 41

16.5 16.5 42

17 17 43

17.5 17.5 44

18 18 45

7 6 39

7.5 7 40

8 7.5 41

8.5 8 42

9.5 9 43

10 9.5 44

10.5 10 44

11 11 45

34 34 44

36 36 46

38 38 48

40 40 50

42 42 52

44 44 54

46 46 56

48 48 58

Women’s shoes American British Continental

Men’s shirts American British Continental

Men’s shoes American British Continental

11.5 12 46

Men’s suits American British Continental

right direction. Rural areas will usually have good basketware, local terracotta or ceramic items as well a veritable banquet of locally produced wine, olive oils, cheeses, hams and salamis. It’s always worth rooting out the local speciality, even in urban centres: Turin is well known for its chocolate, Milan famous for designer clothes and furniture, Venice for glassware and lace, Florence for leather goods, Sicily and Perugia for ceramics. Every large village and town has at least one weekly market (detailed in the Guide), and though these are usually geared towards household goods, they can be useful for picking up cheap clothing, basketware, ceramics and picnic ingredients. Prices are mainly in line with most of Western Europe and are always a little higher

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in the north of the country and urban areas. Credit/debit cards are not widely used although most supermarkets and stores with pricey merchandise will accept them. Haggling is also uncommon in most of Italy but in more rural markets you might like to try your luck; ask for uno sconto (a discount) and see where it gets you. Bargaining is not practised when buying food, however, or in shops. If you’re resident outside the EU you are entitled to a rebate for the VAT (or IVA) paid on items over €155. You need to ask for a special receipt at the time of purchase and allow your goods to be checked at the airport and the receipt stamped when you leave the country. For more information, see Wwww.globalrefund.com.

Red tape The main bureaucratic requirements to stay legally in Italy are a Permesso di Soggiorno and a codice ﬁscale, respectively a piece of paper proving your right to be in the country and a tax number. Available from the questura (police station), a Permesso di Soggiorno requires you to produce a letter from your employer or place of study, or prove you have funds to maintain yourself. In reality, EU citizens can simply apply on the grounds of looking for work (attesa di lavoro), for which you’ll need a passport and a photocopy, four passport photos, and a lot of patience. A codice ﬁscale is essential for most things in Italy including buying a transport season pass, a SIM card, opening a bank account or renting a ﬂat. It can be obtained from the local Ufﬁcio delle Entrate although you can start the process online at Wwww.agenziaentrate.gov.it.

Work options One obvious work option is to teach English, for which the demand has expanded enormously in recent years. You can do this in two ways: freelance private lessons, or through a language school. For the less reputable places, you can get away without any qualiﬁcations, but you’ll need to show a TEFL (Teaching of English as a Foreign Language) certiﬁcate for the more professional – and better paid – establishments. For the main language schools, it’s best to apply in writing before you leave (look for the ads in British newspapers The Guardian and The Times Education Supplement), preferably before the summer. If you’re looking on the spot, sift through the local English-language press and phone books and do the rounds on foot, but don’t bother to try in August when everything is closed. The best teaching jobs of all are with a university as a lettore, a job requiring

fewer hours than the language schools and generally providing a fuller pay-packet. Universities require English-language teachers in most faculties, and you can write to the individual faculties. Strictly speaking you could get by without any knowledge of Italian while teaching, though it obviously helps, especially when setting up private classes. If teaching’s not up your street, there’s the possibility of holiday rep work in the summer, especially around the seaside resorts. These are good places for ﬁnding bar or restaurant work, too – not the most lucrative of jobs, though you should make enough to keep you over the summer. You’ll have to ask around for both types of work, and some knowledge of Italian is essential. Au pairing is another option: again sift through the ads in locally produced Englishlanguage publications in the big cities or The Lady magazine to ﬁnd openings.

| Work and study in Italy

All EU citizens are eligible to work and study in Italy. Work permits are pretty impossible for non-EU citizens to obtain: you must have the ﬁrm promise of a job that no Italian could do before you can even apply to the Italian embassy in your home country.

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Work and study in Italy

Study programmes One way of spending time in Italy is to combine a visit with learning the language, enrolling in one of the many summer courses on Italian art and culture or joining an international work programme. There are many opportunities for studying Italian, either as part of an overseas study scheme or by applying directly to a language school when you arrive. AFS Intercultural Programs 506 SW 6th Ave, 2nd Floor, Portland, Oregon 97204, US T1-800/ AFS-INFO or 212/299 9000, Wwww.afs.org/usa. Runs two-semester student exchange programmes. American Institute for Foreign Study River Plaza, 9 W Broad St, Stamford, CT 06902-3788, US T1-800/727-2437, Wwww.aifs.com. Language study and cultural immersion for the summer or school year. Australians Studying Abroad PO Box 8285, Armadale, 3143 Victoria, Australia T1800/645 755 or 03/9822 6899, W www.asatravinfo.com.au. Study tours focusing on art and culture.

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| Travel essentials

British Council UK T 0161/957 7755, W www .britishcouncil.org. Produces a free leaﬂet detailing study opportunities abroad. The Council’s Central Management Direct Teaching (T 020/7389 4931) recruits TEFL teachers for posts worldwide. Earthwatch Institute 267 Banbury Rd, Oxford OX2 7HT, UK T01865/318 838, Wwww.earthwatch .org. Exchange programme organizing research trips, which sometimes include Italy. Erasmus Whttp://ec.europa.eu/education. Europewide university-level initiative enabling students to study abroad for one year. International House 106 Piccadilly, London W1V 9NL, UK T 020/7611 2400, W www.ihlondon.com. Head ofﬁce for reputable English-teaching

organization which offers TEFL training and recruits for teaching positions in Italy. Italian Cultural Institute 39 Belgrave Square, London SW1X 8NX, UK T020/7235 1461, Wwww .italcultur.org.uk. The ofﬁcial Italian government agency for the promotion of cultural exchanges between Britain and Italy. A number of scholarships are available to British students wishing to study at Italian universities. Road Scholar 11 Avenue de Lafayette, Boston, MA 02111, US T1/800-454-5768, Wwww.road scholar.org. Runs activity programmes for over-60s, generally lasting a week or more, and costs are in line with those of commercial tours.

Travel essentials

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Costs

Crime and personal safety

In general you’ll ﬁnd the south much less expensive than the north. As a broad guide, expect to pay most in Venice, Milan, Florence and Bologna, less in Rome, while in Naples and Sicily prices come down quite a lot. As an indication you should be able to survive on a budget of about €50–60 per day if you stay in a hostel, have lunchtime snacks and a cheap evening meal. If you stay in a mid-range hotel and eat out twice a day, you’ll spend closer to €130–140 per day. Some basics are reasonably inexpensive, such as transport and, most notably, food, although drinking can be pricey unless you stick to wine. Room rates are in line with much of the rest of Europe, at least in the major cities and resorts. Bear in mind, too, that the time of year can make a big difference. During the height of summer, in July and August when the Italians take their holidays, hotel prices can escalate; outside the season, however, you can often negotiate much lower rates. There are a few reductions and discounts for ISIC members, under-18s and over-65s, but only in the major cities and for entry into state museums and sites.

Despite what you hear about the Maﬁa, most of the crime you’ll come across as a visitor to Italy is of the small-time variety, prevalent in the major cities and the south of the country, where pickpockets and gangs of scippatori or “snatchers” operate. Crowded streets or markets and packed tourist sights are the places to be wary of; scippatori work on foot or on scooters, disappearing before you’ve had time to react. As well as handbags, they whip wallets, tear off visible jewellery and, if they’re really adroit, unstrap

Emergencies For help in an emergency, call one of the following national emergency telephone numbers: T112 for the police (Carabinieri). T113 for any emergency service, including ambulance (Soccorso Pubblico di Emergenza). T115 for the ﬁre brigade (Vigili del Fuoco). T116 for road assistance (Soccorso Stradale). T118 for an ambulance (Ambulanza).

The supply is 220V, though anything requiring 240V will work. Plugs either have two or three round pins: a multi-plug adapter is very useful.

Entry requirements British, Irish and other EU citizens can enter Italy and stay as long as they like on production of a valid passport. Citizens of the United States, Canada, Australia and New Zealand need only a valid passport, too, but are limited to stays of three months. All other nationals should consult the relevant embassy about visa requirements. Legally, you’re required to register with the police within three days of entering Italy, though if you’re staying at a hotel this will be done for you. Although the police in some towns have become more punctilious about this, most would still be amazed at any attempt to register yourself down at the local police

Gay and lesbian Italy Homosexuality is legal in Italy, and the age of consent is 16. Attitudes are most tolerant in the northern cities: Bologna is generally regarded as the gay capital, and Milan, Turin and Rome all have well-developed gay scenes; there are also a few spiagge gay (gay beaches) dotted along the coast: the more popular gay resorts include Taormina and Rimini. Away from the big cities and resorts, though, activity is more covert. You’ll notice, in the south especially, that overt displays of affection between (all) men – linking arms during the passeggiata, kissing in greeting and so on – are common. The line determining what’s acceptable, however, is ﬁnely drawn. The national gay organization, ARCI-Gay (T051.649.3055, Wwww.arcigay .it) is based in Bologna but has branches in most big towns. The Wwww.gay.it website has a wealth of information for gays and lesbians in Italy.

| Travel essentials

Electricity

station while on holiday. However, if you’re going to be living here for a while, you’d be advised to do it.

BASICS

watches. You can minimize the risk of this happening by being discreet: don’t ﬂash anything of value, keep a ﬁrm hand on your camera, and carry shoulderbags slung across your body. Never leave anything valuable in your car, and try to park in car parks on well-lit, well-used streets. On the whole it’s a good idea to avoid badly lit areas completely at night and deserted inner-city areas by day. Carabinieri, with their military-style uniforms and white shoulder-belts, deal with general crime, public order and drug control, while the Vigili Urbani are mainly concerned with directing trafﬁc and issuing parking ﬁnes; the Polizia Stradale patrol the motorways. The Carabinieri tend to come from southern Italy – joining the police is one way to escape the poverty trap – and they are posted away from home so as to be well out of the sphere of inﬂuence of their families. The Polizia Statale, the other general crime-ﬁghting force, enjoy a ﬁerce rivalry with the Carabinieri and are the ones you’ll perhaps have most chance of coming into contact with, since thefts should be reported to them. You’ll ﬁnd the address of the questura or police station in the local telephone directory (in smaller places it may be just a local commissariato).

Health As a member of the European Union, Italy has free reciprocal health agreements with other member states. EU citizens are entitled to free treatment within Italy’s public healthcare system on production of a European Health Insurance Card (EHIC), which British citizens can obtain by picking up a form at the post ofﬁce, calling T0845/606 2030, or applying online at Wwww.dh.gov .uk. The Australian Medicare system also has a reciprocal healthcare arrangement with Italy. Vaccinations are not required, and Italy doesn’t present any more health worries than anywhere else in Europe; the worst that’s likely to happen to you is suffering from the extreme heat in summer or from an upset stomach. The water is perfectly safe to drink and you’ll ﬁnd public fountains in squares and city streets everywhere, though look out for acqua non potabile signs, indicating that the water is unsafe to drink. It’s worth taking insect repellent, as even inland towns, most notoriously Milan, suffer from a persistent mosquito problem, especially in summer.

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| Travel essentials

An Italian pharmacist (farmacia) is well qualiﬁed to give you advice on minor ailments and to dispense prescriptions; pharmacies are generally open all night in the bigger towns and cities. A rota system operates, and you should ﬁnd the address of the one currently open on any farmacia door or listed in the local paper. If you need to see a doctor (medico), take your EHIC with you to enable you to get free treatment and prescriptions for medicines at the local rate – about ten percent of the price of the medicine. In an emergency, go straight to the Pronto Soccorso (casualty) of the nearest hospital (ospedale), or phone T 113 and ask for an ambulanza. Throughout the Guide, you’ll ﬁnd listings for pharmacies, hospitals and emergency services in all the major cities. Major train stations and airports also often have ﬁrst-aid stations with qualiﬁed doctors on hand. Incidentally, try to avoid going to the dentist (dentista) while you’re in Italy. These aren’t covered by your EHIC or the health service, and for the smallest problem you’ll pay through the teeth. Take local advice, or consult the local Yellow Pages. If you don’t have a spare pair of glasses, it’s worth taking a copy of your prescription so that an optician (ottico) can make you up a new pair should you lose or damage them.

Insurance Even though EU healthcare privileges apply in Italy, you’d do well to take out an insurance policy before travelling to cover against theft, loss, illness or injury. A typical policy usually provides cover for the loss of baggage, tickets and – up to a certain limit – cash or

cheques, as well as cancellation or curtailment of your journey. Most policies exclude so-called dangerous sports unless an extra premium is paid; in Italy this can mean scuba diving, windsurﬁng and trekking. Many policies can be chopped and changed to exclude coverage you don’t need – for example, sickness and accident beneﬁts can often be excluded or included at will. If you do take medical coverage, ascertain whether beneﬁts will be paid as treatment proceeds or only after your return home, and whether there is a 24-hour medical emergency number. When securing baggage cover, make sure that the per-article limit – typically under £500 – will cover your most valuable possession. If you need to make a claim, you should keep receipts for medicines and medical treatment, and in the event you have anything stolen, you must obtain an ofﬁcial statement from the police (polizia or carabinieri).

Internet Internet access is pretty standard in hostels and mid-range and luxury hotels. According to Italian law, all 3-star hotels and above are now required to offer wi-ﬁ, though not necessarily for free. In towns there will always be several internet cafés where you go online for around €2.50 for half an hour; the area around the station is always a good place to start looking. In smaller places, try the local library. To go online you will need to show your passport to comply with Italian privacy laws.

Laundries Coin-operated laundromats, sometimes known as tintorie, are rare outside large cities, and even there, numbers are sparse;

Rough Guides travel insurance

54

Rough Guides has teamed up with WorldNomads.com to offer great travel insurance deals. Policies are available to residents of over 150 countries, with cover for a wide range of adventure sports, 24hr emergency assistance, high levels of medical and evacuation cover and a stream of travel safety information. Roughguides.com users can take advantage of their policies online 24/7, from anywhere in the world – even if you’re already travelling. And since plans often change when you’re on the road, you can extend your policy and even claim online. Roughguides.com users who buy travel insurance with WorldNomads.com can also leave a positive footprint and donate to a community development project. For more information go to Wwww.roughguides.com/shop.

Visiting churches and religious sites

Mail Post ofﬁce opening hours are usually Monday to Saturday 8.30am to 7.30pm, though branches in smaller towns tend to close at 1pm. Note too that ofﬁces close an hour earlier on the last working day of the month. Stamps (francobolli) are sold in tabacchi, too, as well as in some gift shops in the tourist resorts; they will often also weigh your letter. The Italian postal system is one of the slowest in Europe so if your letter is urgent make sure you send it “posta prioritaria”, which has varying rates according to weight and destination. Letters can be sent poste restante to any Italian post ofﬁce by addressing them “Fermo Posta” followed by the name of the town. When picking something up take your passport, and make sure they check under middle names and initials – and every other letter when all else fails – as ﬁling is often diabolical.

Maps The town plans throughout the Guide should be ﬁne for most purposes, and practically all tourist ofﬁces give out maps of their local area for free. The clearest and best-value large-scale commercial road map of Italy is the Rough Guide 1:900,000 map, which covers the whole country including Sicily and Sardinia. There are also the 1:800,000 and 1:400,000 maps produced by the Touring Club Italiano, covering north, south and central Italy, and TCI also produces excellent 1:200,000 maps of the individual regions,

which are indispensable if you are touring a speciﬁc area in depth. For hiking you’ll need at least a scale of 1:50,000. Studio FMB and the TCI cover the major mountain areas of northern Italy to this scale, but for more detailed, down-to-scale 1:25,000 maps, both the Istituto Geograﬁco Centrale and Kompass series cover central and northwest Italy and the Alps. The Apennines and Tuscany are covered by Multigraphic (Firenze), easiest bought in Italy, while Tabacco produces a good series detailing the Dolomites and the northeast of the country. In Italy, the Club Alpino Italiano (Wwww.cai.it) is a good source of hiking maps; we’ve supplied details of branches throughout the Guide.

| Travel essentials

see the “Listings” sections of the main city accounts for addresses. More common is a lavanderia, a service-wash laundry, but this will be more expensive. Although you can usually get away with it, beware of washing clothes in your hotel room – the plumbing often can’t cope with all the water. It’s better to ask if there’s somewhere you can wash your clothes.

BASICS

The rules for visiting churches, cathedrals and religious buildings are much the same as they are all over the Mediterranean and are strictly enforced everywhere: dress modestly, which means no shorts (not even Bermuda-length ones) and covered shoulders for women, and try to avoid wandering around during a service.

Money Italy’s currency is the euro (€; note that Italians pronounce it “eh-uro”), which is split into 100 cents (centesimi). You can check the current exchange rate at Wwww.xe.com. In Italy, you’ll get the best rate of exchange (cambio) at a bank. Banking hours are normally Monday to Friday mornings from 8.30am until 1.30pm, and for an hour in the afternoon (usually 2.30–4pm). There are local variations on this and banks are usually open only in the morning on the day before a public holiday. Outside banking hours, the larger hotels will change money or travellers’ cheques, although if you’re staying in a reasonably large city the rate is invariably better at the train station exchange bureaux – normally open evenings and weekends. ATMs are common: most towns and even villages have at least one, although, as in most countries, you won’t be able to withdraw more than €250 per day. Check with your bank before you leave home to make sure your card is authorized for transactions abroad and it’s a good idea to let them know the dates you’ll be away so that anti-fraud blocks can be lifted.

55

BASICS

| Travel essentials

Opening hours and public holidays

Closed Mondays

Most shops and businesses open Monday to Saturday from around 8am until 1pm, and from about 4pm until 7pm, though many close on Saturday afternoons and Monday mornings, and in the south the day can begin and end an hour later. In the north some businesses work a 9-to-5 day to facilitate international dealings. Traditionally, everything except bars and restaurants closes on Sunday, though most towns have a pasticceria open in the mornings, while in large cities and tourist areas, Sunday shopping is becoming more common. Most churches open in the early morning, around 7 or 8am for Mass, and close around noon, opening up again at 4pm and closing at 7 or 8pm. In more remote places, some will only open for early morning and evening services, while others are closed at all times except Sundays and on religious holidays; if you’re determined to take a look, you may have to ask around for the key. Another problem is that lots of churches, monasteries, convents and oratories are closed for restoration (chiuso per restauro), though you might be able to persuade someone to show you around even if there’s scaffolding everywhere. Opening hours for state-run museums, and most private ones, are generally Tuesday to Saturday from 9am until any time from 2pm until 7pm, and Sunday from 9am until 1pm. Many large museums also run late-night openings in summer (till 10pm or later Tues–Sat, or 8pm Sun). The opening times of archeological sites are

Most museums, galleries and archeological sites throughout the country are closed on Mondays.

more ﬂexible: most sites open every day, often including Sunday, from 9am until late evening – frequently speciﬁed as one hour before sunset, and thus changing according to the time of year. In winter, times are drastically cut, principally because of the darker evenings; 4pm is a common closing time. For post ofﬁce opening hours, see “Mail”; for banking hours, see “Money; for tourist ofﬁce hours see “Tourist information”.

Public holidays Whereas it can be fun to stumble across a local festival, it’s best to know when the national holidays are as almost everything will shut down. In August, particularly during the weeks either side of Ferragosto (Aug 15), when most of the country ﬂees to the coast and mountains, many towns are left half-deserted, with shops, bars and restaurants closed and a reduced public transport service. Local religious holidays don’t necessarily close down shops and businesses, but they do mean that accommodation space may be tight. The country’s ofﬁcial national holidays, on the other hand, close everything down except bars and restaurants. A recent initiative has been to open national museums and monuments on public holidays to encourage Italians to make the most of their national heritage, although

Public holidays

56

January 1 January 6 Pasquetta April 25 May 1 June 2 August 15 November 1 December 8 December 25 December 26

Primo dell’anno, New Year’s Day. Epifania, Epiphany. Easter Monday. Giorno della Liberazione, Liberation Day. Festa dei Lavoratori, Labour Day. Festa della Repubblica, Republic Day. Ferragosto, Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary. Ognissanti, All Souls Day. Immacolata, Immaculate Conception of the Blessed Virgin Mary. Natale, Christmas. Santo Stefano, St Stephen’s Day.

it’s still best to check beforehand if you are planning a trip around one particular sight.

Time Italy is always one hour ahead of Britain, seven hours ahead of US Eastern Standard Time and ten hours ahead of Paciﬁc Time.

Tourist information Before you leave home, it may be worth contacting the Italian State Tourist Ofﬁce (ENIT, Wwww.enit.it) for a selection of maps and brochures, though you can usually pick up much the same information from tourist ofﬁces in Italy. Most towns, major train stations and airports in Italy have a tourist ofﬁce, “APT” (Azienda Promozione Turistica) or “IAT” (Ufﬁcio Informazioni Accoglienza Turistica), all of which vary in usefulness (and helpfulness) but usually provide at least a town plan and local listings guide. In smaller villages there is sometimes a “Pro Loco” ofﬁce that has much the same kind of information, but with more limited opening times, and the staff are less likely to speak English. Opening hours vary: larger city and resort ofﬁces are likely to be open Monday to Saturday 9am to 1pm and 4 to 7pm (sometimes without the lunchbreak in peak season), and sometimes for a short period on Sunday mornings. Smaller ofﬁces may open weekdays only, while Pro Loco times are notoriously erratic – some open for only a couple of hours a day, even in summer.

| Travel essentials

Mobile (cell) phones in Italy work on the GSM European standard, usually compatible with phones from the UK, the rest of Europe, Australia and New Zealand, but not the US and Canada, which use a different system. Make sure you have made the necessary “roaming” arrangements with your provider before you leave home and note that you’re likely to be charged for incoming calls in Italy and you may need a new international access code to retrieve your messages. If you’re going to be in the country for any length of time, it might be worth getting an Italian SIM card. You can do this before you leave home (sites like W www.0044.co.uk and www.telestial.com/sim_cards.php are popular) or in Italy, but you’ll need to present your passport on purchase and, depending on the provider, register the details over the phone. Public telephones, run by Telecom Italia, come in various forms, usually with clear instructions in English. Coin-operated machines are increasingly hard to ﬁnd in some areas of the country so you will probably have to buy a telephone card (carta or scheda telefonica), available from tabacchi and newsstands. Codes are an integral part of the number and always need to be dialled, regardless of whether or not you are in the zone you are telephoning. All telephone numbers listed in the Guide include the relevant code. Numbers beginning T 800 are free, T 170 will get you through to an English-speaking operator, T 176 to international directory enquiries. Phone tariffs are among the most expensive in Europe, especially if you’re calling long-distance or internationally. You

BASICS

Phones

can cut costs hugely by buying a phone card – on sale from newspaper kiosks for upwards of €5; you don’t insert it into the phone but dial a freephone central number and then a pin code given on the reverse of the card.

Italian tourist ofﬁces abroad Australia Level 4, 46 Market St, Sydney, NSW 2000 T02/926-21666, Wwww.italiantourism.com.au.

Calling home from Italy Australia international access code + 61 + city code. Ireland international access code + 353 + city code. New Zealand international access code + 64 + city code. South Africa international access code + 27 + city code. UK & Northern Ireland international access code + 44 + city code. US & Canada international access code + 1 + area code.

57

BASICS

| Travel essentials

Canada 175 Bloor St East, Suite 907, South Tower, Toronto, ON M4W 3R8 T 416/925-4882, Wwww .italiantourism.com. UK 1 Princes St, London W1B 2AY T0207/408 1254, Wwww.italiantouristboard.co.uk. US 630 Fifth Ave, Suite 1565, New York, NY 10111 T212/245-5618; 12400 Wilshire Boulevard, Suite 550, Los Angeles, CA 90025 T310/820-1898; 500 N Michigan Ave, 506, Chicago, IL 60611 T312/644-0996; Wwww.italiantourism.com.

Travelling with children Children are adored in Italy and will be made a fuss of in the street, and welcomed and catered for in bars and restaurants. Hotels normally charge around 30 percent extra to put a bed or cot in your room, though kids pay less on trains and can generally expect discounts for museum entry: prices vary, but 11–18-year-olds are usually admitted at half price on production of some form of ID (although sometimes this applies only to EU citizens). Under-11s – or sometimes only under-6s – have free entry. Supplies for babies and small children are pricey: nappies and milk formula can cost up to three times as much as in other parts of Europe. Discreet breastfeeding is widely accepted – even smiled on – but nappy changing facilities are few and far between. Branches of the children’s clothes and accessories chain, Prenatal, have changing facilities and a feeding area, but otherwise you may ﬁnd you have to be creative. High-chairs are unusual too, although establishments in areas that see a high volume of foreign visitors tend to be better equipped.

Internet resources

58

Holidays With Kids Wwww.holidayswithkids .com.au. The website of the popular Holidays With Kids magazine, this site lists kid-friendly destinations and accommodation as well as providing advice to frazzled parents. You can book tours and holidays here, too. Travel With Your Children 40 Fifth Ave, New York, NY 10011 T 212/477-5524 or 1-888/822-4388. Publishes a regular newsletter, Family Travel Times (Wwww.familytraveltimes.com), as well as a series of books on travel with children. W www.italyfamilyhotels.it An organization of hotels across Italy with facilities from cots and bottle warmers in rooms to baby sitters, play areas and special menus. New hotels are constantly joining.

Wwww.travelforkids.com Advice on planning holidays with children and tips on child-friendly tourist sights and activities, region by region.

Travellers with disabilities Facilities in Italy aren’t geared towards disabled travellers, though people are helpful enough and progress is being made to make accommodation, transport and public buildings more accessible. Public transport can be challenging, although low-level buses are gradually being introduced and some trains have disabled facilities. There will be several appropriate accommodation options in most resorts and you might want to ask the local tourist ofﬁce to give you a hand with ﬁnding the most suitable. In more out-of-the-way places it’s rather pot luck. Spacious, specially designed toilets are becoming increasingly common in bars and restaurants as new legislation takes force. The cobbled streets in old town and village centres can present their own problems, as can access to sights, including galleries and museums. Even in the larger cities high kerbs, ad hoc parking and constant building works can make life difﬁcult for the partially sighted and those in wheelchairs.

Contacts for travellers with disabilities Access-Able W www.access-able.com. Online resource for travellers with disabilities. Accessible Italy Italy T378.994.1111, W www .accessibleitaly.com. Italian operation offering organized tours or tailor-made trips. Accessible Journeys 35 W Sellers Ave, Ridley Park PA, US T800/846-4537, Wwww.disability travel.com. Travel tips and programmes for groups or individual travellers. Irish Wheelchair Association Blackheath Drive, Clontarf, Dublin 3, Ireland T 01/818 6400, Wwww .iwa.ie. Information and listings for wheelchair users travelling abroad. Society for the Advancement of Travellers with Handicaps (SATH) 347 5th Ave, New York, NY 10016, US T212/447-7284, Wwww.sath.org. Information on the accessibility of speciﬁc airlines and advice on travelling with certain conditions. Tourism for All Vitalise, Shap Road Industrial Estate, Shap Road, Kendal, Cumbria LA9 6NZ, UK T0845/124 9971, Wwww.tourismforall.org.uk. Provides free lists of accessible accommodation abroad and information on ﬁnancial help for holidays.

Guide

59

Guide

60

1

Piemonte and Valle d’Aosta ................................................... 61

2

Liguria..................................................................................... 97

3

Lombardy and the Lakes ..................................................... 139

4

Trentino-Alto Adige .............................................................. 213

5

Venice and the Veneto ......................................................... 257

6

Friuli-Venezia Giulia .............................................................. 343

7

Emilia-Romagna ................................................................... 369

8

Tuscany ................................................................................ 415

9

Umbria.................................................................................. 525

G

Le Marche ............................................................................ 579

H

Rome and Lazio ................................................................... 617

I

Abruzzo and Molise ............................................................. 705

J

Campania ............................................................................. 731

K

Puglia ................................................................................... 795

L

Basilicata and Calabria ........................................................ 839

M

Sicily ..................................................................................... 869

N

Sardinia ................................................................................ 947

PIE MONTE AND VAL L E D’AOS TA

1

Piemonte and Valle d’Aosta

|

AUSTRIA

SWITZERLAND 4 3

HUNGARY

SLOVENIA CROATIA

7

BOSNIAHERZEGOVINA

FRANCE

8

10 MONTENEGRO

9 Corsica (Fr.)

SERBIA

5

1 2

6

11

ADRIATIC SEA

12 14 13

15

17 TYRRHENIAN SEA

IONIAN SEA 16 ALGERIA

0

100 km

TUNISIA

61

CHAPTER 1 PIE MONTE AND VAL L E D’AOS TA

✱

✱

| Highlights

✱

Highlights

White trufﬂes This very costly speciality is shaved onto pasta and washed down with the excellent local Barolo or Barbaresco wine. See p.65 Sacra di San Michele The views of the surrounding valley from this fortiﬁed abbey are more than worth making your way up. See p.80 Alba This ancient, appealing town boasts a well-preserved

historic centre with a GothicLombard bubblegum-pink Duomo. See p.84

✱

Parco Nazionale del Gran Paradiso Italy’s ﬁrst national park preserves alpine valleys and peaks that are home to ibex, chamois and golden eagles. See p.92

✱

Mont Blanc Enjoy excellent views of this awe-inspiring mountain from the Testa d’Arpy. See p.94

62

Sacra di San Michele

1 PIE MONTE AND VAL L E D’AOS TA

Piemonte and Valle d’Aosta

| n the extreme northwest of Italy, fringed by the French and Swiss Alps and grooved with deep valleys, Piemonte and Valle d’Aosta are among the least “Italian” regions in the country. Piemontesi spoke French until the end of the nineteenth century and Piemontese dialects reﬂect Provençal inﬂuence; Valle d’Aosta is bilingual and in some valleys the locals, whose ancestors emigrated from Switzerland, still speak a dialect based on German. Piemonte (literally “at the foot of the mountains”) is one of Italy’s wealthiest regions, known for its ﬁne wines and food and for being home to huge Italian corporations such as Fiat and Olivetti. Italy’s longest river, the mighty Po, begins here, and the towns of its vast plain – which stretches right across northern Italy – have grown rich on both manufacturing and rice, cultivated in sweeping paddy ﬁelds. Turin, on the main rail and road route from France to Milan, is the obvious ﬁrst stop and, despite being Italy’s second industrial city, retains a freshly restored Baroque core and is well placed for days out. South of Turin, Alba is the most enticing town, and a good base for visiting the region’s wine cantinas. Asti, to the southeast, really comes to life during its famous medieval Palio, or horse race. For the rest of the region, winter sports and walking are the main activities; Sestriere is the main skiing centre, while the ascent of Monviso in the far west appeals to the climbing fraternity. Further spectacular hikes and views are to be found in the adjoining region of Valle d’Aosta. Bordered by Europe’s highest mountains, Mont Blanc, Monte Rosa and the Matterhorn, veined with valleys and studded with castles, the region is undeniably picturesque. The central Aosta valley cuts right across it, following the River Dora to the foot of Mont Blanc on the French border. The main valley is rather bland, and it’s in the more scenic tributary valleys that you’ll want to spend most of your time. Aosta, the regional capital, is the only town of any size and, with its attractive cobbled streets and good shopping, makes an excellent staging post on the way to the smaller mountain resorts. Straddling the two provinces is the protected zone of Italy’s oldest and largest national park, the mountainous Gran Paradiso. The valleys here can be busy – the mountain rifugi and hotels become packed in summer – but development is purposely restrained to preserve pristine conditions. Although the western shore of Lago Maggiore is actually in Piemonte, we’ve treated all the lakes as a region and covered them in the “Lombardy and the Lakes” chapter; the Maggiore account starts on p.181.

I

63

PIEMONTE & VALLE D’AOSTA Brig

Cervino (Matterhorn) (4476m)

e

êm es V a l sa v a r e n c he

Valgris

Va l d i Rh

Val

di

C

gn

Degioz

e

D ’ A ya s

Stresa

se

Gressoney-la-Trinité Gressoney Saint-Jean

Varallo

Va l

Verrès Issogne PontSt-Martin Valnontey

Gran Paradiso

Arona A26

Biella

Milan

Ivrea

Novara Santhià

A4

Vercelli

L O M B A R DY

Colle de Lys

Ri v

Sant Ambrogio Avigliana Va l Fenestrelle C h i

Moncalvo Albugnano

ne

A6

Abbazia di Crissolo Staffarda Val l e Po

Paesana

Monviso Saluzzo (3841m) V a l V a r a i t a

Alessandria

Asti

Alba Grinzane di La Morra Cavour Barolo

Costigliole d’Asti

A26

PIEMONTE

Pinerolo

Acqui Terme

LE LANGHE

Val Maira

Prazzo

Casale Monferrato

A21

so

Sestriere Pinasca

o er P

Turin

le

Sauze d’Oulx

V a l l e d i Vi ù

Sacra di San Michele

Susa Bardonecchia Usseaux Oulx

Lago Maggiore

Lago d’Orta

Brusson

A5

| Modane

V al

Biel

Cogne

Pont (4061m) PARCO NAZIONALE DEL GRAN PARADISO

FRANCE

G res s oney

che

Introd

Val

St Fénis Vincent

he nc

Valgrisenche Rhêmes-Notre-Dame

V a l t o ur n e n

Nus

Aosta

La Thuile

Alagna

Champoluc

si a

VALLE D’AOSTA

Domodossola Verbania

M. Rosa

Breuil-Cervinia

S. Bernardo

Courmayeur Pré St-Didier

Locarno

A7

M. Bianco (Mont Blanc) Colle di Gran

o

PIE MONTE AND VAL L E D’AOS TA

Chamonix

SWITZERLAND

Stroppo

Va

lle

Cúneo Ge

ss

Mondovi

o

Vernante

Valle del Pesio

Terme di Valdieri

Genoa

LIGURIA

V a l le Gr a na

St ura Valle Valdieri

Vicoforte Certosa di Pesio

Savona Grotta di Bossea

T YR R H E N I AN SEA

0

25 km

Nice & Monaco

Transport

64

Getting around Piemonte is fairly easy. The network of trains and buses is comprehensive, and your own transport is only necessary for the out-of-the-way places. You can get to most places from Turin; Alba makes a good base for Le Langhe, Saluzzo for the western valleys. Using public transport to explore the Valle d’Aosta is a bit trickier: buses run from Piemonte along the main valley past most of the castles, but services connecting the tributary valleys are infrequent, while trains are less regular and run only as far as Pré-St-Didier. For serious exploration of the quieter valleys, your own vehicle is a deﬁnite advantage. The road branches off at Aosta into Switzerland via the GrandSt-Bernard Pass and forks again some 30km further west at Pré-St-Didier: both

Regional food and wine

PIE MONTE AND VAL L E D’AOS TA

| Turin (Torino)

Piemonte and Valle d’Aosta are a paradise for gastronomes and connoisseurs of vintage wines. Rich Piemontese cuisine betrays close links with France through dishes like fonduta (fondue) and its preference for using butter and cream in cooking. Piemonte is perhaps most famous for its white trufﬂes, the most exquisite of which come from around the town of Alba and are ferociously expensive. They are most often used in the form of shavings to subtly perfume a dish of pasta or a risotto. Watch out too for porcini mushrooms, chestnuts, and bagna caöda – a sauce of oil, anchovies, garlic, butter and cream, also served as a fondue. Agnolotti (pasta ﬁlled with meat or possibly with mushrooms or other vegetables) is the best-known dish, followed by meat buji (boiled) or braised in wine. Cheeses to look out for are tomini, robiole and tume. The sweets, too, are marvellous: among the decadent delights are spumone piemontese, a mousse of mascarpone cheese with rum; panna cotta, smooth cooked cream; and light pastries like lingue di gatto (cat’s tongues) and baci di dama (lady’s kisses). The best known is the bonet, a confection of chocolate and amaretti. Turin is also credited as the home of zabaglione, an egg yolk, sugar and Marsala mixture used to ﬁll bignole, or iced choux pastries. The rolling vine-clad hills of Le Langhe and Monferrato produce traditional wines such as Barolo, Barbera and Nebbiolo. These ﬁne reds need ageing, and Barolo in particular can be very expensive. More suitable for everyday drinking are wines made from the dolcetto grape, notably Dolcetto d’Alba, drunk young and lightly chilled. Probably the most famous is the sweet sparkling wine, Asti (wine makers dropped the “spumante” from the name in 1994 in a bid for a new image) – there has been a trend in recent years to make dry spumante too. Martini & Rossi and Cinzano vermouths are also produced in and around Turin, a fusion of the region’s wines with at least thirteen of the wild herbs that grow on its mountains. The traditional version to drink, now a brand name, is Punt e Mes (“point and a half”) – one part bitter to half-a-part sweet.

branches run into France – the southern via the Petit-St-Bernard Pass to Chambéry, the northern to Chamonix through the Mont Blanc tunnel. As these roads link France and Italy, they are much used by long-distance lorries, which are something of an earache and eyesore. However, a tunnel between Bruzolo and St Jean de Maurienne, still very much a work-in-progress, will permit lorries to be transported by rail, and should dramatically reduce traffic and pollution by the year 2020.

Turin (Torino) “Do you know Turin?” asked Nietzsche. “It is a city after my own heart…a princely residence of the seventeenth century, which has only one taste, giving commands to everything, the court and its nobility. Aristocratic calm is preserved in everything; there are no nasty suburbs.”

Although TURIN’s thoroughfares are far from calm, and its suburbs are as dreary as any in Italy, the renovated city centre’s gracious Baroque avenues and squares, opulent palaces, and splendid collections of Egyptian antiquities and northern European paintings are still there, as well as spanking-new pedestrian-only areas – a pleasant surprise to those who might have been expecting satanic factories and little else. Ever since the major spruce-up for the 2006 Winter Olympics, Turin’s emphasis has been on promoting its historic urban charms, such as its genteel belle époque cafés and traditional chocolate treats – not to mention an array of walking tours that explore the city’s extraordinary, vivid heritage (see box, p.71).

65

Some history

PIE MONTE AND VAL L E D’AOS TA

| Turin (Torino)

Although originally an ancient Roman settlement, it was the Savoy dynasty that left the largest impression on Turin: from 1563 the city was the seat of the Savoy dukes, who persecuted Piemonte’s Protestants and Jews, censored the press and placed education of the nobles in the fanatical hands of the Jesuits. The Savoys gained a royal title in 1713, and a few years later acquired Sardinia, which whetted their appetite for more territory. After more than a century of military and diplomatic wrangling with foreign powers, Duke Carlo Alberto di Savoia (who promised to “eat Italy like an artichoke”) teamed up with the liberal politician of the Risorgimento, Cavour, who used the royal family to lend credibility to the Italian Uniﬁcation movement. In 1860, Sicily and southern Italy were handed over to Vittorio Emanuele, successor to Carlo Alberto, thereby elevating Piemonte’s king to sovereignty of all Italy. Turin became the new country’s capital, but only two years later, political turmoil moved the court to Florence, and then ﬁnally in 1870, to Rome, which had at last been wrested away from the pope. With its king now set up half a country away from home, Turin fell into the hands of the petty Piemontese nobility and quickly became a provincial backwater. Nevertheless, it retained its regal centre decked out in elaborate ﬁnery: its cafés lavishly encumbered with chandeliers, carved wood, frescoes and gilt – only slightly less ostentatious than the rooms of the Savoy palaces, fourteen in all, and now all listed as UNESCO World Heritage sites. World War I brought plenty of work to the city, but also food shortages, and, in 1917, street riots erupted, establishing Turin as a focus of labour activism. Gramsci led occupations of the Fiat factory here, going on to found the Communist Party. By the 1950s, Turin’s population had soared to 700,000, mainly made up of migrant workers from the poor south, who were housed in shanty towns outside the city and shunned as peasants by the Torinesi. By the 1960s Fiat’s workforce had grown to 130,000, with a further half million dependent on the company in some way. Not surprisingly, Turin became known as Fiatville. Today there are fewer people involved in the industry, and Fiat’s famous Lingotto factory is now a shopping centre and conference space; the gap left behind has been ﬁlled by some of the biggest names from other industries – Motorola, Einaudi, Ferrero, Martini & Rossi, Lavazza and many others – ensuring a continuation of Turin’s economic prosperity.

Arrival and information Turin’s airport, Caselle (T 011.567.6361 or 011.567.6362, W www.aeroportodi torino.it), is 15km north of the city, connected by buses every 30 to 45 minutes (less frequent on Sun) with Porta Susa and Porta Nuova train stations (40min;

Happy sesquicentenary

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Since 2006, when Turin went all-out to gear up for the Winter Olympics, the city has truly been transformed: it’s now one of the most charming, user-friendly cities in Italy and a wonderful place for a relaxed stroll round the beautifully refurbished historic centre. And just in time, too, since 2011 has brought the city even more reason to pat itself on the back. The whole country will be celebrating the 150th anniversary of Italian Uniﬁcation, a movement in which Turin played a centralissimo role, serving as the country’s ﬁrst capital and providing the new nation with its ﬁrst kings. Important monuments and museums are ﬁnally opening their doors after years of restoration, and the city is planning once again to pull out all the stops. For updates of the calendar of events, check W www.torinopiupiemonte.com.

The Torino+Piemonte Card

| Turin (Torino)

€5.50, or €6.50 on the bus). The ﬂat-rate taxi service to or from the airport costs €30. Turin’s main train station, Porta Nuova, on Corso Vittorio Emanuele II at the southern end of Via Roma, is convenient for the city centre and hotels. Some trains also stop at Porta Susa on Corso Inghilterra (Piazza XVIII Dicembre), west of the centre and heralded as the city’s primary hub in the near future. Close by, at Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, 131/H, is the main bus station (W www.autostazione torino.it), the arrival and departure point for most intercity and all international buses; however, local buses to Saluzzo and Cúneo arrive at, and leave from, the top of Corso Marconi, near the junction with Via Nizza. The bus station is linked to Via Nizza (near Porta Nuova) and Porta Susa by bus #9 or #68. Parking spaces are marked with blue lines on the road and cost €0.50–2 per hour. More expensive parking lots lie under some main piazzas. The main tourist office is in Piazza Castello at Via Garibaldi (daily 9am–7pm; T 011.535.181, W www.turismotorino.org). There are also branches at the Porta Nuova train station (daily 9am–7pm) and the airport (daily 8am–11pm); as well as a good range of information they can supply you with the Torino+Piemonte Card (see box above).

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The very reasonable Torino+Piemonte Card (€20 for 48hr, €25 for 72hr, €31 for 5 days or €35 for a week; W www.turismotorino.org) is valid for one adult and one child under 12 and allows free entrance to all museums – more than 170 – plus discounts on guided tours, theatre performances, concerts, opera, parking and even car rental. It also includes free use of above-ground urban transport and a discount on the City Sightseeing bus (see below). The card is available from tourist ofﬁces. Note that the majority of Turin museums stop selling tickets up to an hour before closing time.

City transport Most of Turin’s sights are within walking distance of Porta Nuova station, although if you’re pushed for time you should take advantage of the city’s fast and efficient tram and bus network (W www.gtt.to.it). Tickets, valid for seventy minutes, must be bought before you board – they cost €1 each or €13.50 for ﬁfteen from tabacchi and newsstands. Useful routes include tram #4, which heads north through the city from Porta Nuova along Via XX Settembre close to Piazza della Repubblica; bus #1 between Porta Nuova and the Lingotto Centre; tram #11 from Porta Nuova close to Piazza Castello; bus #61 from Porta Nuova across the river to the Sassi-Superga tramway. Alternatively, it’s possible to explore the city by City Sightseeing (daily, circuit every hour 10am–8pm, Jan & Feb weekends only; €15, valid 24hr; W www.torino.city-sightseeing.it), which operates a hop-on-hop-off circular route that takes in the major sights. You can pick it up at Piazza Castello and nine other points along the route; buy tickets on the bus. Taxi ranks are found on most of the main squares in the centre of Turin, as well as at the bus and train stations and the airport, or call T 011.5730 or 011.5737.

Accommodation Turin has attractive hotels in every quarter. Demand is usually high, especially during the skiing season and trade fairs (when prices also rise), so it’s a good idea to phone in advance. Be aware that some places offer special weekend packages – and that a few hotels close in August, which is low season for Turin.

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Airport, Stadio delle Alpi & Stazione Dora

Alpi Resort Via A. Bonafous 5 T 011.812.9677, W www.hotelalpiresort.it. An elegant entrance on a busy street near the river leads to modest but attractive soundproof rooms. Services include parking, laundry and internet. Breakfast extra. 5

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| Turin (Torino)

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& Palazzina di Caccia Stupinigi

Bologna Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 60 T011.562.0191, W www.hotelbolognasrl.it. Ideally located for transport, in a period building offering 45 recently remodelled rooms. Amenities include fridges, satellite TV and parking. 3 Boston Via Massena 70 T011.500.359, Wwww.hotelbostontorino.it. A stunning “art

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hotel”, celebrating Turin as Italy's burgeoning capital of contemporary art. The collections adorning both common rooms and in the stylish guestrooms are of the highest gallery calibre, and there’s even an audio guide available. Every comfort has been seen to. 5 Chelsea Via Cappel Verde 1/D T011.436.0100, W www.hotelchelsea.it. Rooms here are well

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BARS & CLUBS 1870 Huntsman Pub Fluido Hiroshima Mon Amour Jam Club Jumping Jester Las Rosas Lobelix Magazzino di Gilgamesh Roar Roads Tre Galli

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| Turin (Torino)

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appointed and soundproof, with a/c, minibars and other quality touches. The hotel also has its own restaurant, La Campana, featuring Pugliese specialities. Breakfast not included. 5 Conte Biancamano Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 73 T011.562.3281, Wwww .hotelcontebiancamano.it. If you feel like staying

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| Turin (Torino)

in a rather grandiose setting, go for this hotel set in an old palace with panelled ceilings and large, elegant rooms. 3 Des Artistes Via Principe Amedeo 21 T 011.812.4416, W www.desartisteshotel.it. This comfortable, spacious hotel has simple, smart rooms with a/c and parking. 6 Genio Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 47 T 011.650.5771, W www.hotelgenio.it. Very large, three-star Best Western, occupying a historic building. Rooms are elegant and diverse, some even boasting ceiling frescoes. Impressive buffet breakfast included. 6 Liberty Via Gioberti 37 T 011.1978.1101, W www.hotelliberty-torino.it. A well-appointed and very welcoming ﬁnd, with Art Nouveau (Liberty) architectural touches and a staff who take the hotel motto to heart: Passion Lives Here. Recently renovated for maximum comfort. 3 Montevecchio Via Montevecchio 13 bis T 011.562.0023, W www.hotelmontevecchio.com. Though rather spartan, this hotel does have TV and telephone in all rooms. 3 Piemontese Via Berthollet 21 T 011.669.8101, W www.hotelpiemontese.it. Handy location on the colourful, commercial side of the train station.

The well-appointed rooms range from suites with jacuzzi to comfortable singles. Though breakfast is included, note that the afternoon aperitif and parking are extra. 4 Roma e Rocca Cavour Piazza Carlo Felice 60 T011.561.2772, W www.romarocca.it. Large, old-style, family-run hotel in front of the Porta Nuova station, overlooking a lively square with park and fountain. All in all, good value and classically attractive, with the choice of a very substantial buffet breakfast at €8 per person. All rooms have free wi-ﬁ. 3

Hostels Ostello 011 Corso Venezia 11 T011.250.535, Wwww.openzero11.it. Downright spartan but colourful and comfortable enough, serving also as a youth centre. Half- and full board also offered. Dorm beds from €16.50, rooms 1 Ostello Torino Via Alby 1 T 011.660.2939, Wwww.ostellotorino.it. Located in a bucolic area with views, this excellent facility has various services, including wi-ﬁ, available at nominal extra charge. Dinner is available for €10.50. Membership card required (€18), sold by the hostel. Dorm beds from €15; rooms 1

The City The grid street-plan of Turin’s Baroque centre makes it easy to ﬁnd your way around. Via Roma is the central spine of the city, a grand affair lined with designer shops and ritzy cafés. It’s punctuated by the city’s most elegant piazzas: at one end Piazza Carlo Felice, boasting a small park; in the middle Piazza San Carlo, close to which are some of the more prestigious museums; and at the other end, Piazza Castello, with its royal palaces standing stately in a vast pedestrian-only zone. On either side are pedestrianized shopping streets, more relaxed than Via Roma and noted for the evening passeggiata in summer. North is Piazza della Repubblica, a huge square with the largest open-air market in Europe. To the east the porticoes of Via Po lead to Piazza Vittorio Veneto, slanting down to the River Po, along which a stroll southward brings you to the extensive Parco del Valentino, and some of the city’s best nightlife just downriver at Murazzi. Beyond is the engaging Museo Nazionale dell’Automobile and the Lingotto Centre, which houses the Pinacoteca Giovanni e Marella Agnelli, an art gallery displaying the Fiat magnates’ superb private collection, while the hills across the river – which are peppered with the Art Nouveau villas of the richest Torinesi – are crowned by the Basilica di Superga. Further south, beyond the city limits, lies the royal Stupinigi Hunting Lodge. Porta Nuova and around

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The area along the east side of the Porta Nuova station was a construction site at the time of writing and the situation has only exacerbated the usual seediness endemic to all major train stations in Italy. The western ﬂank is uneventful, but the eastern side is a kind of no-man’s-land haunt of prostitutes and petty criminals, though the potentially elegant arcades (portici) of Via Nizza and Corso Vittorio Emanuele II are typical of Turin’s measured symmetry – the city boasts over 40km of these colonnaded walkways.

Via Roma and Piazza San Carlo

The Museo Egizio and Galleria Sabauda

Around the corner from Piazza San Carlo, the Museo Egizio, Via Accademia delle Scienze 6 (Tues–Sun 8.30am–7.30pm, ticket office closes 1hr before closing time; €7.50, joint ticket with Galleria Sabauda €8), holds a superb collection of Egyptian antiquities, begun under the aegis of Carlo Emanuele III in the mid-eighteenth century and added to over the ensuing centuries. With some thirty thousand artefacts, it’s the largest collection of Egyptian antiquities outside of Cairo. The ground ﬂoor evokes a vast temple, with massive granite sphinxes, gods and pharaohs looming out of the subdued lighting. Upstairs, you’ll ﬁnd decorated mummy cases and an intriguing assortment of everyday objects, including castanets, sandals, a linen tunic dating from 2300 BC, and even food – eggs, pomegranates and grain, recognizable despite their shrivelled, darkened state. The collection’s undoubted highlights are a statue of Ramses II and the Tomb of Kha and Mirit. The tomb, discovered in 1906 at Deir-el-Medina, is that of a 1400 BC architect, Kha, and his wife Mirit. Kha’s burial chamber contains an astonishing assortment of after-life supplies, including a board game to while away the posthumous hours, as well as his own personal illustrated copy of the Egyptian Book of the Dead. And to ensure that Mirit kept up appearances, she was provided with a cosmetic case, wig, comb and tweezers.

| Turin (Torino)

Back at Porta Nuova, crossing the road brings you to the neat gardens of busy Piazza Carlo Felice, beyond which begins Via Roma, the stamping ground of the well heeled. Halfway down, spacious Piazza San Carlo is known with some justiﬁcation as the parlour of Turin; it’s a grand, cloister-like space fronted by Baroque facades, the porticoes of which house elegant cafés. Holding court is an equestrian statue of the Savoy duke Emanuele Filiberto raising his sword in triumph after securing Turin’s independence from the French and Spanish at the battle of San Quintino in 1574. The entrance to the square is watched over by two gigantic Fascist-era reclining nudes representing Turin’s two rivers, the Po and the Dora, and past them the twin Baroque churches of San Carlo Borromeo and Santa Cristina.

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A few blocks west of here, the GAM (Galleria Civica d’Arte Moderna e Contemporanea) at Via Magenta 31 (Tues–Sun 10am–6pm; €7.50, free ﬁrst Tues of the month; W www.gamtorino.it) features a good cross-section of twentiethcentury works by artists as varied as De Chirico, Morandi, Modigliani, Picasso, Klee and Warhol. The rest of the collection is enlivened only by a ﬁne work by the nineteenth-century French Realist painter Gustave Courbet. However, as the gallery is on the international circuit for touring exhibitions and loans, there is often more than enough to compensate.

Walking tours Pedestrian-friendly Turin is a ﬁne place to take a walking tour, with several different themes on offer. Perhaps the most intriguing tour is based on the city’s age-old reputation as one of the three great European centres of the occult (along with London and Prague). To visit some of the noted esoteric sites, relating to both black and white magic, check out Wwww.somewhere.it (T011.668.0580) for their Magic Turin evening walking tour (Thurs & Sat; 9pm at Piazza Statuto 15; 2hr 30min; €20). If the arcane is not your thing, they also offer at least eleven other tours, including Subterranean Turin (Fri; 8.30pm from Piazza Vittorio Veneto 5; 3hr; €25). Make reservations through the website.

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Upstairs from the museum, the Galleria Sabauda (Tues, Fri, Sat & Sun 8.30am– 2pm, Wed 2–7.30pm, Thurs 10am–7.30pm; €4, or joint ticket with Museo Egizio €8) was built around the Savoys’ private collection and is still ﬁrmly stamped with their taste: a crowded miscellany of Italian, Dutch and Flemish paintings punctuated by some real masterpieces. Of the Italian paintings, the most arresting is perhaps Botticelli’s Venus. She is not nearly as elaborate as her Uffizi counterpart, but every bit as alluring. The ﬁfteenth-century Archangel Raphael and Tobias by Antonio and Piero Pollaiuolo is another of the gallery’s signature works, while the Dutch and Flemish section contains Van Eyck’s Stigmatization of St Francis, a warmly human piece and the only panel by this artist in Italy. The collections are hung in a crowded, old-fashioned manner but it’s also worth seeking out Van Dyck’s The Children of Charles I of England (a copy of which hangs in the Palazzo Reale). Museo del Risorgimento

| Turin (Torino)

Via Roma continues north through the heart of Turin, passing near some of the signiﬁcant monuments of the Savoys and Italian Uniﬁcation. The Museo Nazionale del Risorgimento Italiano, Via Accademia delle Scienze 5 (closed for restoration at the time of writing but set to reopen sometime in 2011), housed in the star-ﬂecked Palazzo Carignano, birthplace of Vittorio Emanuele II, is worth a visit. The ﬁrst meetings of the Italian parliament were held in the palace’s circular Chamber of the Subalpine Parliament, and the building was the power base of leaders like Cavour, who ousted the more radical Garibaldi to an early retirement on the island of Caprera near Sardinia. It’s ironic, then, that the most interesting sections of the museum are those dedicated to Garibaldi: portraits showing him as a scruffy, long-haired revolutionary, some of his clothes – an embroidered fez, a long stripy scarf and one of the famous red shirts – adopted during his exile in South America. These shirts became the uniform of his army of a thousand volunteers who seized southern Italy and Sicily from the Bourbons. The Palazzo Reale

What Vittorio Emanuele II made of the eccentrically dressed revolutionary who secured half the kingdom for him is undocumented, but you feel sure that his residence, the sixteenth-century Palazzo Reale (Tues–Sun 8.30am–7.30pm; visits to the royal kitchen included Sat & Sun 2.30–5pm; €6.50), at the head of the sprawling Piazza Castello, wouldn’t have impressed Garibaldi. Designed by Castellamonte, this nouveau-riche palace with an unexceptional facade hides glitzy, semi-furnished rooms gilded virtually top-to-bottom and decorated with bombastic allegorical paintings. On the right-hand side of the Palazzo Reale is the Armeria Reale (Tues–Fri 9am–2pm, Sat, Sun & hols 1–7pm; €4), a collection of armour and weapons spanning seven centuries and several continents started by King Carlo Alberto in 1837. Pride of place is given to his stuffed horse, which stands among cases of guns and swords. There’s also an exotic, and rather chilling, collection of oriental arms, including gorgeously jewelled Turkish dagger sheaths and intimidating Japanese masks. The same building houses the Biblioteca Reale (Mon & Wed 8.15am–6.45pm, Tues & Thurs–Sat 8.15am–1.45pm; free, varying fees for temporary exhibitions), which occasionally displays its collection of drawings by artists including Leonardo da Vinci, Bellini, Raphael, Tiepolo and Rembrandt. The Palazzo Madama 72

Across the square from the Palazzo Reale, the Palazzo Madama is an altogether more appealing building, with an ornate Baroque facade by the early eighteenthcentury architect Juvarra, who also redesigned the piazza and many of the streets leading off it. Inside, the originally ﬁfteenth-century palace incorporates parts of

Shrouded in mystery

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a thirteenth-century castle and some Roman portal foundations – in effect it’s an architectural cross-section of the city’s history. The most noteworthy architectural pieces are Juvarra’s Great Staircase and the archeological excavations of the Medieval Court (Tues–Fri & Sun 9am–7pm, Sat 10am–8pm; free). It’s well worth visiting the Museo Civico d’Arte Antica (Tues–Sat 10am–6pm, Sun 10am–8pm; ticket office closes one hour before closing time; €7.50, free ﬁrst Tues of the month) – a stunning collection of thousands of objects that includes everything from early Christian gold jewellery via a vast array of world ceramics to royal furniture such as an inlaid Gothic commode, all rearranged into chronological order complete with excellent multilingual captions.

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During the devastating Duomo ﬁre of 1997, a quick-thinking ﬁreman rescued from a blazing chapel what has been called “the most remarkable forgery in history”, the Turin Shroud – a linen sheet bearing the image of a man’s body – claimed to be the shroud in which Christ was wrapped after his cruciﬁxion. One of the most famous medieval relics, it made world headlines in 1988 after carbon-dating tests carried out by three universities each concluded it was a fake, made between 1260 and 1390. Since 1988, the Shroud has continued to be a tissue of contention between true believers and true scientists (see Wwww.shroud.com for all the shreds of conspiracy and patchwork of rationalizations, torn every which way; the ofﬁcial website is Wwww.sindone.org). Most recently, in 2005, an American chemist posited that somehow all three carbon tests were mistakenly conducted on a medieval patch and that the oldest parts of the fabric were in the target age range. But even if the cloth itself were proven of biblical vintage, that’s just the starting point. Unless the Vatican gives full access (supremely unlikely) to a whole army of impartial experts to test the fragile fabric – including DNA tests of the supposed bloodstains – the Shroud’s authenticity will always remain a simple matter of faith.

The Duomo

Behind the Palazzo Reale – and reached through a small passage – is the ﬁfteenthcentury Duomo (daily 7am–12.30pm & 3–7pm), at Via XX Settembre 87 in Piazza San Giovanni. The only example of Renaissance architecture in Turin, it was severely damaged in a ﬁre in 1997. It is most famous as the home of the Turin Shroud (see box above), but the reconstruction of the fantastic Holy Shroud Chapel, designed by Guarini in 1668, will not be completed until at least 2011. Most of the time you can’t see the Shroud itself; it is locked away and officially only on display once every 25 years (the last time was April–May of 2010). However, it is sometimes brought out for special occasions (it’s worth checking at the tourist office). If you don’t get to see the real thing, head to the left of the nave, where there’s a photographic reproduction, on which the face of a bearded man, crowned with thorns, is clearly visible, together with marks supposed to have been left by a double-thonged whip, spear wounds and bruises that could have been caused carrying a cross. For those whose interest is still not satiated, there is a museum that covers the history and science of the Shroud, Museo della Sindone (daily 9am–noon & 3–7pm; €6), on Via San Domenico 28. Relics of Turin’s days as a small Roman colony are visible from outside the Duomo: the scant remains of a theatre and the impressive Porta Palatina – two sixteen-sided towers ﬂanking an arched passageway. Smaller archeological ﬁnds can be seen in the Museo di Antichità (Tues–Sun 8.30am–7.30pm; €4), behind the Duomo at Corso Regina Margherita 105, in what were the Palazzo Reale’s orangeries.

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Piazza della Repubblica and around

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Northwest of the Duomo, the huge Piazza della Repubblica, otherwise known as Porta Palazzo, hosts Europe’s largest outdoor market (Mon–Fri 8.30am–1.30pm, Sun 8.30am–6.30pm), selling mainly fruit and vegetables, but also some clothes and, in the indoor market hall, cheeses, bread and salumi. Behind the Porta Palazzo is the Saturday-morning Balôn, or ﬂea market, where you can ﬁnd everything from pirate DVDs to fake designer gear. On the second Sunday of each month there’s a Gran Balôn on the same spot, with opportunities to buy collectables including lace, toys, secondhand furniture and books. West of Piazza della Repubblica stands Turin’s most elaborate church, the royal Santuario della Consolata, in Piazza della Consolata (daily 6am–8.30pm), built to house an ancient statue of the Madonna, Maria Consolatrice, the protector of the city. Designed by Guarini, its Neoclassical facade is pink and white, while the interior has an impressive decorative altar by Juvarra. Don’t miss the vast array of votive objects devout Torinesi have offered to the statue, housed in an ancient crypt below the church. Not to be missed either is the series of paintings in the church, featuring people being “saved” from such disasters as being gored by a bull, cutting overhead electricity cables with garden shears, exploding frying pans, and numerous accidents involving prams and trams. After all this, you may well want to head across the piazza to the beautiful old café, Al Bicerin (see p.77) for a pick-me-up. Historically, in nineteenth-century post-Uniﬁcation Turin, it was the only café women could frequent without causing a scandal. Southwest of Piazza della Repubblica is the newest addition to world culture in the city, the Museo d’Arte Orientale (MAO), Via San Domenico 11 (Tues– Sun 10am–6pm; €7.50), with an extraordinary range of Asian collections, the highlights including a trove of second- to fourth-century Gandharan sculpture, millennia-old Chinese pieces and an impressive number of ninth- to seventeenthcentury Islamic art. The Mole Antonelliana

The porticoes of Via Po lead down to the river from Piazza Castello, ending just before the bridge in the vast arcaded Piazza Vittorio Veneto. Halfway down, a left onto Via Montebello brings you to the huge Mole Antonelliana, whose bishop’shat dome, topped by a pagoda-like spire balancing on a mini-Greek temple, is a distinctive landmark and has been adopted as the city’s emblem. Designed as a synagogue in the nineteenth century by the eccentric architect Antonelli, the building was ceded to the local council by Turin’s Jewish community while still under construction because of escalating costs. The decision to house the modern Museo Nazionale del Cinema at Via Montebello 20 (Tues–Fri & Sun 9am–8pm, Sat 9am–11pm; €7, or €9 including the lift to the top, €5 for lift only) in this rather unusual building seems a suitable way to celebrate the sheer spectacle of the place. Turin’s involvement with cinema goes back to the early years of the twentieth century, when it was one of the ﬁrst Italian cities to import and experiment with the new medium. The interesting museum covers the early days of the magic lantern and experimental moving pictures, the development of the cinema as a global phenomenon, and twenty-ﬁrst-century special effects. Parco del Valentino 74

South along the river from Piazza Vittorio Veneto, the riverside Parco del Valentino borders the site of a cluster of Turin’s nightclubs – known as the Murazzi area (see p.78). In the daytime the rambling grounds make a pleasant place to wind down after the hum of the city centre. There are two castles here,

Museo Nazionale dell’Automobile

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Three kilometres south along the river takes you to the Museo Nazionale dell’Automobile at Corso Unità d’Italia 40 (closed for restoration at the time of writing; check W www.museoauto.it for opening date), Italy’s only motor museum. Even if you know nothing about cars, this has some appeal – you’ll discover strange vehicles from motoring’s formative days and others familiar from classic ﬁlms, as the museum traces the development from early cars, handcrafted for a privileged minority, to the mass-produced family version. One of the favourite luxury models is the gleaming Isotta Fraschini driven by Gloria Swanson in the ﬁlm Sunset Blvd., still with the initials of Norma Desmond, the character she played, on the side. The pride of the collection is the 1907 Itala, which won the Peking-to-Paris race in the same year; you can read of its adventures in Luigi Barzini’s book Peking to Paris.

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though only one is the genuine article. The ornate Castello Valentino was another Savoy residence and is nowadays the seat of the university’s faculty of architecture, while the Borgo e Rocca Mediovale date from an industrial exhibition held in 1884. The Borgo is a reconstructed medieval village (daily: April–Oct 9am–8pm; Nov–March 9am–7pm; free) whose houses are a synthesis of the best dwellings of medieval Piemonte and Valle d’Aosta, built with the same materials as the originals and using the same construction techniques. The centrepiece of the village, the Rocca (Tues–Sun 10am–6pm; €5, free ﬁrst Tues of each month) is a ﬁfteenthcentury castle, which, although bogus, actually conjures up a picture of life in a medieval castle far better than many of the originals, kitted out with painstaking replicas of intricately carved Gothic furniture.

The Lingotto Centre

Walking 200m further on and turning right down Via Garessio takes you to what was the original Fiat factory, the Lingotto Centre at Via Nizza 250 (tram #1 or #18 from Via Accademia Albertina). Fiat’s headquarters are still here but the main part of the building, redesigned by Renzo Piano, houses a conference and exhibition space and a shopping centre, as well as the Pinacoteca Giovanni e Marella Agnelli at no. 230 (Tues–Sun 10am–7pm, ticket office closes 6.15pm; €4, €3 surcharge for special exhibitions), a very small but priceless collection of artworks donated by the head of the Fiat dynasty, Gianni Agnelli, and his wife. The paintings are housed in a glass-and-metal gallery, which overlooks the test track on top of the former Fiat car works. The collection consists of mainly nineteenth- and twentiethcentury masterpieces, including a number of Matisses and a couple of Picassos, as well as Modigliani’s Nu Couché and Manet’s La Négresse. The eighteenth century is represented by six Canalettos and Tiepolo’s Halberdier in a Landscape. Parco della Rimembranza and the Basilica di Superga

Southeast of the river, Turin fades into decrepit suburbs, beyond which lie the wooded hills concealing the fancy villas of the city’s industrialists. For a taste of the views enjoyed by Turin’s mega-rich, take bus #70 from Piazza Vittorio Veneto up to the Parco della Rimembranza, which features ten thousand trees planted in honour of the Torinese victims of World War I and crowned with an enormous light-ﬂashing statue of Victory. The Sassi-Superga tram, complete with its original 1884 carriages, runs up to the grandiose Baroque Basilica di Superga, from which there are ﬁne panoramas across the city to the Alps. Tram #15 leaves from Piazza Castello to Sassi station from where the Sassi-Superga tram runs hourly on the hour every day except Tuesday (9am–noon & 2–5pm, Sat, Sun & hols 9am–8pm; €4 return, weekends & holidays €5.50).

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The basilica (April–Oct Mon–Fri 9am–noon & 3–6pm, Sat & Sun 9am–12.45pm & 3–6.45pm; Nov–March Mon–Fri 9am–noon & 3–5pm, Sat & Sun 9am–12.45pm & 3–5.45pm; basilica free, €3 to climb the dome, €4 to visit the Savoy tombs and the royal apartments), a Filippo Juvarra creation, stands high on a hill above the city. In 1706 Duke Vittorio Amedeo climbed the hill in order to study the positions of the French and Spanish armies who had been besieging the city for four months, and vowed that he would erect a temple to the Madonna on this site if she were to aid him in the coming battle. Turin was spared, and the duke immediately set Juvarra to work, ﬂattening the top of the hill and producing over the next 25 years the circular basilica you see today. The elegant dome, pierced by windows and supported on pairs of white columns, is ﬂanked by delicately scalloped onion-domed towers and rises above a Greek temple entrance, these days defaced by graffiti. Many Torinesi come here not to pay homage to the Virgin, nor even to see the splendid tombs of the Savoys, but to visit the tomb of the 1949 Torino football team, all of whom were killed when their plane crashed into the side of the hill. The Stupinigi Palace

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A nearby attraction worth the trip is the Savoy dynasty’s luxurious hunting lodge, the Palazzina di Caccia di Stupinigi (closed for restoration at the time of writing; due to reopen in 2011). Another Juvarra design, built in the 1730s and perhaps his ﬁnest work, it’s a symmetrical fantasy with a generous dash of Rococo. The exterior of the palace has been restored, while the interior is as luxurious as it ever was, also incorporating the Museo d’Arte e Ammobiliamento, a collection of art and furniture from other Savoy palaces. The most extravagant room, the oval Salone Centrale, is a dizzying triumph of optical illusion that merges fake features with real in a superb trompe l’oeil. Other rooms are decorated with hunting motifs: Diana, goddess of the hunt, bathes on bedroom ceilings; hunt scenes proceed across walls; and even the chapel is dedicated to Sant’Uberto, patron saint of hunting. To get here, take bus #63 from Porta Nuova (bus stop #3492 “Porta Nuova FS” in Via Sacchi) then change at the stop after Piazza Caio Mario (bus stop #1080 “Imperia”) to bus #41; on the way you’ll pass through the bleak Miraﬁori suburbs on the west side of the city, built for workers at the nearby Fiat plant. Finally, get off at stop #1085 “Stupinigi”. The Castello di Rivoli

Another rewarding trip is west to Rivoli and its Museo d’Arte Contemporanea, housed in the baroque Castello di Rivoli (Piazza Mafalda di Savoia; Tues–Thurs 10am–5pm, Fri–Sun 10am–9pm; €6.50), one-time residence of the Savoy family. It’s the most important collection of postwar art in Italy, ranging from works by Jeff Koons, Carl Andre and Claes Oldenburg to Arte Povera artists such as Mario Merz and Alighiero Boetti. Take the Metro service from Stazione Porta Susa to Collegno (Metro stop Fermi) and then the shuttle to Castello di Rivoli (9am–4pm, return 11am–5.15pm; service about every 1hr 30min; 45min; €1.50 total).

Eating and drinking

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It’s worth taking your time over a drink, snack, pastry or ice cream in one of the ﬁn-de-siècle cafés that are a Turin institution: prices are steep, but the elegant belle époque interiors – often with touches of Art Nouveau (known as “Liberty” style in Italy) – more than compensate. The city also has plenty of good restaurants in which to sample local cuisine.

Turin’s chocolate

Snacks and ice cream

Cafés Al Bicerin Piazza della Consolata 5. This tiny, beautiful café is the place to try a bicerin – a Piemontese speciality of coffee fortiﬁed with brandy, cream and chocolate. Closed Wed & Aug. Baratti & Milano Piazza Castello 29. Established in 1873 and preserving its nineteenth-century interior of mirrors, chandeliers and carved wood, where genteel Torinese ladies sip teas. Great hot chocolate. Closed Mon.

Fiorio Via Po 8. Turin’s most historic café, once patronized by Nietzsche, presumably for its legendary gelato and its signature cappuccino, €3. Closed Mon. Mood Via Battisti 3. Books, coffee and aperitifs in the cosy Turin tradition. Not part of Turin history, like the others, but very attractive. Closed Sun. Mulassano Piazza Castello 9. This inviting café ﬁrst opened in 1900; it has marble ﬁttings and a striking ceiling. Traditionally the favoured spot of actors and singers from the nearby Teatro Regio. Pepino Piazza Carignano 8. Ritzy café on the piazza, famed for its ice creams. Try the violet-ﬂavoured pinguino or the outrageously rich cream-andchocolate concoction of pezzo duro. Also offers an excellent Sunday-brunch buffet menu for about €19. Closed Mon. Platti Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 72. This Art Nouveau-furnished café dating from 1870 also hosts art exhibitions. Good place for lunch, or just a quick snack, with delicious tramezzini sandwiches going for about €3 each. The tuna with artichoke hearts is a classic. San Carlo Piazza San Carlo 156. Heroes of the Risorgimento once met in this café/ restaurant/ice-cream parlour, now regally restored with gilt pilasters and an immense chandelier. An incredibly smooth cappuccino will cost you €1.40 at the bar. San Tommaso Via San Tommaso 10. A Torinese institution, the original home of Lavazza coffee has been transformed into a sleek, upbeat café where coffee in all its many guises is king, including, of course, that Torinese favourite, the bicerin. Closed Sun. Torino Piazza San Carlo 204. Another plush place for a leisurely aperitif or cocktail, of which the most popular is the Torinese “Elvira”, made with Martini, vodka and various secret ingredients. Illustrious regulars have included writer Cesare Pavese and Luigi Einaudi (a Torinese economist who became the second president of the Italian Republic).

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Brek Piazza Carlo Felice 22 and Via Santa Teresa 23 (Piazza Solferino). Part of a national chain of efﬁcient, high-quality self-service spots with tables outside. Main courses start at €5. Exki Via XX Settembre 12 and Via Pietro Micca 2. Natural, fresh and organic is the philosophy of this snack bar. Sandwiches, soups and drinks to eat in or take away. Closed Sun. Frullateria Piazza Castello 44. Very central lunchtime option, with sandwiches and an array of fresh local and tropical fruits, ready for the liquidizer. Closed Sun. Gobino Via Lagrange 1. Maestro Gobino is deﬁnitely in the running for producing the most delicious chocolates in the world. A sampling, at the very least, is not to be missed. Mon 3–8pm, Tues–Sun 10am–8pm. There’s also a boutique at Via Cagliari 15/B. Grom Piazza Paleocapa 1/D and Via Accademia delle Scienze 4. This organic gelateria conquered the market with its vibrant all-natural ﬂavours that are simply unforgettable. Look for the queue out into the square. Go for the unique crema di Grom, with cornmeal biscuit bits and dark chocolate chips, or check out the ﬂavours of the month. Vasavasa Via Amendola 4 bis. Sicilianstyle gelateria, silky and always very select, according to the availability of only the very best ingredients. Delightful, somewhat postmodern space.

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Make sure you leave some room to sample one of Turin’s signature products – chocolate. Best known is the hazelnut milk chocolate Gianduiotto, which dates back to the nineteenth century. Some even claim that it was the Torinesi who introduced chocolate to France when chocolate making for export began in 1678. A uniquely Torinese opportunity to indulge is the ChocoPass. You can taste samples of the ﬁnest chocolate products in all of Turin’s historic establishments, confectionery shops and chocolate factories: Gianduiotti, pralines, various cakes, hot chocolate, and the distinctive bicerin, which is a bit like a cappuccino but fortiﬁed with brandy. The ChocoPass booklets have 10 vouchers valid for two days (€12). Otherwise, the supreme Torinese spot to buy chocolate is Gobino; see below).

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Restaurants

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Alba Via San Pio V 8 T011.669.2054. A classic trattoria, near Porta Nuova station, where everything is home-made and prices and staff are very friendly. Full meals run to about €15. Closed Fri. Caffè Vini Emilio Ranzini Via Porta Palatina 9/G T 011.765.0477. Time has stopped in this most authentic of traditional Turin eateries, known as a piola, catering for workers, artists and students. Fare includes panini made with delicacies such as anchovies and sun-dried tomatoes, or salami and cheese; you can suggest your own combinations. Don’t forget to sample the wines. Closed Sun. Consorzio Via Monte di Pietà 23 T011.276.7661. Pleasantly trendy Slow Food spot, where everything is organic, as well as lovingly and expertly prepared. The menu varies according to market ﬁnds. Expect to pay around €35 for a full meal, including a sampling of dry, fruity Ruché wine. Closed Sun. Cucco Corso Casale 89 T011.819.5536. A big Art Nouveau place near the river, serving typical Piemontese cooking at moderate prices with a choice of around thirty antipasti. Closed Mon. Da Michele Piazza Vittorio Veneto 4 T011.888.836. Offering a commanding view of the long square from under the portico, this place is locally renowned for its superb fresh pastas and strictly seasonal specialities, as well as wood oven-ﬁred pizzas. Full meals €20–40 per person. Closed Tues. Del Cambio Piazza Carignano 2 T011.546.690. Historic, lavish shrine to Piemontese food, much frequented by expense-account types. A great opportunity to feast on traditional dishes such as Cavour’s favourite of ﬁanziera (veal, sweetbreads

and porcini, cooked with butter and wine). Prices are suitably extravagant – starting around €25 for a main – and booking is advisable. Closed Sun & three weeks in Aug. Il Punto Verde Via San Massimo 17 T011.885.543. Reasonably priced vegetarian restaurant with a good selection of dishes and a quiet outside terrace. You can practically make a meal of the buffet table starters (€11); or for €13 try one of their inventive “monopiatti”. Closed Sat & Sun. Porto di Savona Piazza Vittorio Veneto 2 T011.817.3500. Cheap and cheerful restaurant, very popular with both students and business people, attracted primarily by the formula of piatto unico (single option main course) and dessert for €8–10. Fried dishes are a speciality. Scannabue Largo Saluzzo 25/H T011.669.6693. A wonderful new gourmet choice in a people-watching piazza on this up-andcoming side of the station. Try the swordﬁsh with tomato, or the tarte tatin of fennel and parmesan. Superb wines by the glass €3–6. Count on spending about €40–50 per person. Reservations are a must. Closed Mon. Sfashioncafé Via Cesare Battisti 13 (Piazza Carlo Alberto) T011.516.0085. Enormous portions and great pizzas. Lunchtime bargains start at €8 and include a main course, a great house salad, drink and coffee or dessert. Colourful, friendly interior, plus sunny seating on the piazza. Tre Galline Via Bellezia 37 T011.436.6553. The oldest restaurant in Turin, with a lovely panelled interior. The agrodolce (sweet-and-sour) rabbit is a house speciality. Reckon on €35 a head; booking advisable. Closed all day Sun, Mon lunchtime & Aug.

Nightlife Turin’s nightlife is more sedate than that of, say, Milan, but there’s a reasonably varied mix of clubs and bars, with the liveliest spot down on the embankment bordered by the Parco del Valentino, known locally as the Murazzi. Its clubs are packed with a lively crowd at weekends so there’s often a heavy police presence, and if you go, you should keep an eye on your belongings. Note that some clubs require membership cards, purchased when you enter (€5–10) with your ﬁrst drink usually included. After that, although drink prices can be inﬂated measures are relatively generous. Aside from the Murazzi, a good place to wander for a drink is the more tranquil medieval area, known as the Quadrilatero Romano, around Piazza Emanuele Filiberto and Via Santa Chiara. Many of the old birrerie have been supplemented by new vinerie – wine bars – where you can also order a substantial snack (known as a marenda sinoira). Bars and clubs 78

1870 Huntsman Pub Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 43/D. A sprawling British-style establishment offering a clubby atmosphere and a full menu. Open daily from lunchtime till 3am.

Fluido Viale Cagni 7, Parco del Valentino. You can spend all day sunbathing and all night partying at this riverside pleasure establishment. The disco action starts at about 10.30pm and goes till dawn. Closed Mon.

named for the obelisk that adorns the piazza, out into which the tables spill in summer. Closed Sun. Magazzino di Gilgamesh Piazza Moncenisio 13/B. Birreria and coffee shop, plus an international restaurant on the third ﬂoor, with jazz, Latin, classic and rock music in the background. Closed Sun. Roar Roads Via Carlo Alberto 3. Despite the dubious name, this is a very passable pub just off Via Po that pulls in both locals and foreigners. Closed Sun. Tre Galli Via Sant’Agostino 25. Busy vineria that used to be an Agnelli (Fiat founder) hangout, with a list of some 400 local and Italian wines by the bottle or glass (for the latter, ask for a mescita a calice) as well as plates of cheeses, ham, salami and home-made grissini (breadsticks). Laid back atmosphere and tables outside on the piazza in summer. Open until 2am. Closed Sun.

Turin’s cultural life is suitably comprehensive for a place of this size. The city’s opera house, the Teatro Regio (T 011.881.5241/2, W www.teatroregio.torino.it), is one of the best in the country and is recognizable from its pod-like Seventies architecture, while the Teatro Stabile (T 011.516.9460, W www.teatrostabiletorino.it), one of Italy’s principal publicly funded theatre companies, is acclaimed for its productions of major works by nineteenth- and twentieth-century European playwrights; performances are normally at the Carignano Theatre on Piazza Carignano, though it is one of at least half a dozen theatres in the city. Turin is also home of the prestigious RAI National Symphony Orchestra (T 011.810.4653, W www.orchestrasinfonica .rai.it), which performs in the Arturo Toscanini Auditorium, in Piazza Rossaro. For most of September a major festival called MITO (T 011.442.4703, W www .mitosettembremusica.it) mixes jazz, world music, classical music and performance art at various venues in Turin and Milan. There are also four international ﬁlm festivals held each year, including the Torino Film Festival (W www.torinoﬁlmfest.org), a women’s ﬁlm festival in March, and the Torino GLBT Film Festival, “Da Sodoma a Hollywood”, in April (W www.tglff.com). For what’s on listings and opening hours, check the pages of the Turin daily, La Stampa, particularly its Friday supplements. Torino Cultura in Piazza Castello at Via Garibaldi (W www.torinocultura.it) has a free ticket reservation service.

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Entertainment

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Hiroshima Mon Amour Via Bossoli 83 T 011.317.6636, W www.hiroshimamonamour.org. Live music, alternative theatre and cabaret in a converted school near the Lingotto Centre. Cover charge depending on the event. Closed Mon. Jam Club Murazzi del Po 19. One of the best along the river, this is a slick disco under nineteenth-century brick vaults, playing house and r’n’b. Closed Mon. Jumping Jester Via Mazzini 2. Old-fashioned wooden interior with huge TV screen on which football matches are shown live. Serves a great pint of cold Caffreys or Tennants. Closed Sun. Las Rosas Via Bellezia 15. Trendy cantina-style taqueria. Drinks and tacos served until 2am to the sounds of world music. Closed Sun. Lobelix Via Corte d’Appello 15 (Piazza Savoia). Simpatico wine and cocktail bar with techno music,

Listings Bicycle rental You can rent bikes in summer at all major parks, including Parco della Colletta, Parco del Valentino, Parco della Pellerina and Parco della Mandria. Bicycle paths comprise some 40km, many along the picturesque rivers. Books and newspapers Libreria Luxembourg, Via Cesare Battisti 7, has an excellent range of British and American paperbacks and magazines. English-language newspapers can be bought from most newsagents in the city centre, in particular the one at the Porta Nuova station.

Car rental Avis, Corso Turati 37 T011.501.107; Europcar, Via Madama Cristina 72 T011.650.3603; Hertz, Via Magellano 12 T011.502.080. All these companies also have desks at the airport. Exchange Outside normal banking hours you can exchange money at Porta Nuova station (Mon–Sat 8am–8pm, Sun 10am–6pm). Football Turin’s two teams, Juventus and Torino, play on Sat and Sun afternoons at the Stadio Olimpico, Via Filadelﬁa 88. You can get to the stadium on Line #4 from Porta Nuova station or #10 from Porta Susa. Although Juventus has been

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voted the most popular team in Italy, most locals support the underdogs, Torino. Hospital Ospedale Molinette, Corso Bramante 88–90 T 011.633.1633; for 24hr emergency medical attention call T 5747, 118 or 113. Internet access Bu.Net, Via San Quintino 13 (daily 9am–1am; from €0.06/min). Laundries Lav@sciuga, Via San Massimo 4 and Piazza della Repubblica 5. Markets In addition to Porta Palazzo/Piazza della Repubblica, and the weekly Balôn and monthly Gran Balôn markets behind Porta Palazzo,

there’s often heavily discounted designer fashion (the genuine thing, from end-of-line clearances) at the Crocetta market around Via Cassini and Via Marco Polo (Tues–Fri mornings & all day Sat) – not exactly street-market prices, but still much cheaper than in the shops. Pharmacist Boniscontro, Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 66, is open all night. Police City police station at Corso XI Febbraio 22; T113. Post ofﬁce The central post ofﬁce is at Via Alﬁeri 10 (Mon–Fri 8.30am–7pm, Sat 8.30am–1pm).

The Susa and Chisone valleys

| The Susa and Chisone valleys

The main route to France from Turin runs through the Susa Valley, passing near the region’s main ski resorts. You go through long tunnels most of the way, so don’t expect to see much. The one real sight to spot is the Sacra di San Michele, a forbidding fortiﬁed abbey anchored atop a rocky hill; it’s an easy day-trip from Turin. Susa itself, reached by a minor branch of the rail line, was once a modest Roman town and is now a modest provincial town – a pleasant stopover but with little else to lure you.

Sacra di San Michele One of the closest towns to the Sacra di San Michele (mid-March to mid-Oct Tues–Sat 9.30am–12.30pm & 2.30–6pm, Sun 9.30am–noon & 2.40–6.30pm; July–Sept also open Mon, same hours; mid-Oct to mid-March 9.30am–12.30pm & 2.30–5pm, Sun 9.30am–noon & 2.30–5pm; €4) is SANT’AMBROGIO, a small town at the foot of San Michele’s hill. It’s thirty minutes by train from Turin and connected with the abbey by a very steep ninety-minute hike; with your own car, however, you can drive up to the abbey from the town of AVIGLIANA. The walk is worth it, both for the views and for the opportunity to soak up the eerie atmosphere surrounding the glowering abbey. Climbing up to the abbey and hewn into the rock, a long ﬂight of stairs – the Scalone dei Morti (Stairs of the Dead) – sets a morbid tone, for it was here that corpses used to be laid out for local peasants to come and pay their respects. The sinister ambiance is augmented by the abbey buildings proper, from the Romanesque entrance arch carved with signs of the zodiac to the Gothic-Romanesque abbey church.

Susa

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Some 25km up the valley from Sant’Ambrogio, SUSA is a likeable, rather scruffy old town. The tourist office (IAT) is at Corso Inghilterra 39 (T 0122.622.447). There are a few hotels, such as the Du Parc, Via Rocchetta 15 (T 0122.622.273, W www .hotelduparcsusa.com; 2 ), or the Napoleon, Via Mazzini 44 (T 0122.622.855, W www.hotelnapoleon.it; 3 ), which can be used as a base for exploring the area. In ancient days when the Romans ruled most of Italy, Susa and western Piemonte remained in the hands of the Celts. The best-known of its Celtic leaders, Cottius, was much admired by the Romans, with whom he reached a peaceful arrangement, and a handful of mainly Roman remains cluster around the town centre, notably in Piazza San Giusto, where there’s a redoubtable defensive gate. The adjacent cattedrale – originally Romanesque but with

Piemonte’s ski resorts

| The Susa and Chisone valleys

Gothic and Baroque accretions – has a ﬁne campanile, but its most interesting features are the external frescoes – a Cruciﬁxion and an Entry into Jerusalem. Just above the piazza, Cottius erected the Arco di Augusto in honour of the Roman emperor, its top decorated with a processional frieze. Look through its broad arched opening frames for views down into a small park laid out around the remains of some Roman baths. In the opposite direction, southeast, at the end of the Chisone Valley, PINEROLO was one of the Winter Olympics 2006 sites and is worth a short stop. It’s a small town with a medieval centre that was once the seat of the Acaja princedom, erstwhile rivals to the House of Savoy. It’s no longer possible to visit their palace, slowly deteriorating halfway up the hill, but you can visit the church of San Maurizio, burial place of the Acaja princes, decorated with ﬁfteenthcentury frescoes.

PIE MONTE AND VAL L E D’AOS TA

Close to the French border, Piemonte’s main, purpose-built ski areas – Claviere, Cesana, Sestriere, Sansicario, Sauze d’Oulx and Bardonecchia – are well used by British tour operators and, as hosts of the alpine events of the Winter Olympics 2006, have all had their facilities recently upgraded. Moreover, they now collectively constitute some 400km of interconnected runs, more than 200 in all, known as La Vialattea (The Milky Way; W www.vialattea.it). You can gain access from Pragelato, thanks to the cableway Pattemouche-Anﬁteatro. One daily lift-pass for all ﬁve resorts is €34. Sestriere was the dream resort of Fiat baron, Gianni Agnelli, who conceived it as an aristocratic mountain retreat, favoured by the young and the beautiful. Nowadays, the reality is a bland resort dominated by two cylindrical towers, both owned by Club Med. The mountain, however, is impeccable: the choice for World Cup and Olympic downhill races. Modern Bardonecchia – unlike the others, not directly connected to the Milky Way, though part of the same grouping of facilities – is a weekenders’ haunt, with small chalet-style hotels. Sauze d’Oulx, a little way south, is generally known as the “Benidorm of the Alps”, attracting hordes of youngsters who treat skiing as a hangover cure – though it isn’t so bad that it doesn’t also attract its share of families.

The Chisone Valley Taking the parallel Chisone Valley to the south back towards Turin, you will encounter a much more bucolic and less developed area, dotted along the way with small towns. If you don’t have your own transport, you can take one of the buses that regularly service almost all the towns along the way. The picturesque slate-roofed hamlet of USSEAUX is worth discovering, its weather-worn old walls decorated with colourful murals. For lunch, the Trattoria La Placette (T 0121.83073; closed Thurs Sept–May), behind the church and on the village’s edge overlooking the valley, is equipped with a sunny porch on which you can partake of hearty pastas, game, and mountain cheeses. Not far away, at an altitude of nearly 2000m, the impressive Forte di Fenestrelle ( July & Aug daily 10am–noon & 2.30–6pm; rest of year Thurs–Mon 10am–noon & 2.30–6pm; T 0121.83.600 for tour reservations; €2), known as “The Great Wall of Piemonte”, has been restored and is now a signiﬁcant regional attraction. It constitutes a gigantic fortiﬁed castle and dependent buildings, along with an adjoining massive 3km rampart marching over the mountain. Built by the Savoys from 1728, it took some 122 years to complete, its purpose being to

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| Saluzzo and the Po Valley 82

halt enemy invasions. Simply put, it’s the largest defensive structure ever built in Europe. Much of the wall’s length can now be visited, and the longest guided tour (€12) takes you up all of the 4000 steps and back, a strenuous seven-hour trek. If you’re tempted to spend some time in this idyllic area, note that one of the most welcoming accommodation options is the Bella Baita, Borgata Serre Marchetto, 1 Pinasca, an inn nestled amid a panoramic mountain forest high above the valley’s villages (T 339.750.3940 or 347.984.2945, W www.bellabaita .com; 2 ). The hosts are very welcoming and knowledgeable about the area, and they are trained professional chefs; a hearty breakfast is included, and half-board is also available.

Saluzzo and the Po Valley A ﬂourishing medieval town, and later the seat of one of Piemonte’s few Renaissance courts, SALUZZO, 57km south of Turin, retains much of its period appeal. Flaking ochre-washed terraces and Renaissance houses line cobbled streets that climb up to a castle, from where you can enjoy views of the town. A pleasant place to stay, the town has the added attraction of regular bus services into the Po, Varaita and Maira valleys, which cut through the foothills of the Monviso mountain towards France.

The Town There are a few things around town worth seeing. Just below the castle, the Torre Civica (March–Sept Thurs–Sun 9.30am–12.30pm & 2.30–6.30pm; Oct–Feb Sat & Sun same hours; €1.50, combined ticket with Museo Civico €5) gives more great views over the town and surrounding areas. On the other side of the road, the Gothic church of San Giovanni has a number of thirteenth- and fourteenth-century frescoes and the tomb of the leading light of Renaissance Saluzzo, Marchese Ludovico II, anachronistically depicted as a medieval knight beneath a fancily carved canopy. Close by, the Gothic Casa Cavassa, Via San Giovanni 5, is a ﬁfteenth-century palace with an arcaded courtyard that doubled as a home for one of Ludovico’s ministers and now houses the town’s Museo Civico (April–Sept Tues & Wed guided tours only, at 11am & 4pm, Thurs–Sun unaccompanied visits 10am–1pm & 2–6pm; Oct–March Tues & Wed guided tours only, at 11am & 3pm, Thurs–Sun unaccompanied visits 10am–1pm & 2–5pm; €4.50, combined ticket with Torre Civica €5). Inside are period furniture and paintings, including the gorgeously gilded Madonna della Misericordia, with the Madonna sheltering Ludovico, his wife and the population of Saluzzo in the folds of her cloak. That’s about all there is to the town centre, but just to the south of Saluzzo, a ﬁve-minute bus ride from outside the train station, there’s the Castello della Manta – a medieval fortress that was transformed into a reﬁned residence in the ﬁfteenth century (Tues–Sun 10am–5/6pm; €5, including audioguide). Though from the outside it’s as plain and austere as Saluzzo’s castle, it’s worth visiting for the evocative late-Gothic frescoes in the Baronial Hall. One of these illustrates the myth of the fountain of youth, elderly people processing towards the magical waters while others impatiently rip off their clothes to plunge in. The other, Nine Heroes and Nine Heroines, depicts chivalrous courtiers and exquisite damsels standing beneath stylized trees with coats of arms hanging from the branches.

Practicalities

The Po Valley

| Alba and Le Langhe

West of Saluzzo, close to the French border, lies the source of the River Po, which ﬂows right across industrial northern Italy, gathering the waste from thousands of factories before ﬁnally discharging into the Adriatic. Towards the end of the valley is the alpine-style resort of CRISSOLO, served by 2 to 4 buses daily from Paesana, further down the valley, which in turn is served by buses from Saluzzo. From Crissolo you can hike 5km (or take a minibus in summer) to the Pian del Re, a grassy plain around the source of the Po, for a view of one of the passes legend claims Hannibal and his elephants used. Crissolo is also a good base for climbing Monviso (3841m), Piemonte’s highest mountain; it’s a long (about six hours) rocky scramble from the Quintino Sella rifugio (see below), two to three hours beyond the Pian del Re. Even if you don’t want to scale the summit, the walk to the rifugio is lovely, passing a series of mountain lakes; or, if you prefer, it’s possible to do a circuit of the lakes, turning off the main trail just before Lago Chiaretto, from where a path leads past Lago Superiore and back to Pian del Re. Crissolo has a couple of average hotels open all year round: the Monviso, Piazza Umberto I 153 (T 0175.94.940, E [email protected]; 3 ), and the Polo Nord, Via Provinciale 22 (T 347.958.9979; 2 ). The Quintino Sella rifugio, near the Lago Grande del Viso, is open at Easter and from June 20 to September 20, and sometimes in winter; it’s advisable to phone in advance (T 0175.94.943). The majority of restaurants are in the hotels, so you may ﬁnd it both practical and economical to opt for half- or full-board.

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Saluzzo’s tourist office, Piazza Risorgimento 1 (April–Sept Tues–Sun 10am–1pm & 3–6.30pm; Oct–March Tues–Sun 10am–12.30pm & 3–6pm; T 0175.46.710, W www.saluzzoturistica.it), can provide information on the whole of the western valleys region. Among the town’s hotels, the cheapest is the Persico, Vicolo Mercati 10 (T 0175.41.213, W www.albergopersico.net; 2 ), which also has a very good restaurant serving traditional cuisine (closed Mon); or there is the modern, threestar Griselda, Corso XXVII Aprile 13 (T 0175.47.484, W www.hotelgriselda.it; 4 ), as well as the charmingly rustic, full-service Agriturismo Camisassi, Via Torino 75 (T 0175.479.091, W www.agriturismocamisassi.it; 2 ). If you want to eat in the old town, try the atmospheric Taverna di Porti Scur (closed all day Mon & Tues lunch, plus second half of August), Via Volta 14, featuring regional dishes, with full meals starting at about €20.

Alba and Le Langhe The town of Alba and the surrounding Le Langhe hills have come to signify two things to the Italians: white truffles and red wine. The exquisite truffles are more delicate and aromatic than the black variety found further south, whereas most of the area’s very different wines all come from the same grape, the Nebbiolo. The ﬁnal taste is dependent on the soil: sandy soil produces the grapes for the light red Nebbiolo; calcium and mineral-rich soil for the more robust Barolo, the “King of Italian Reds”. In the hill-villages around Alba, there are a number of wine museums and cantinas, the best being those at Barolo. Although the big cantinas all sell wine, you’ll get a better deal at one of the smaller family-owned establishments scattered around the region; ask at the tourist office for one of the excellent

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free maps and suggestions for wine tours. Buses from Alba are rather infrequent, so your own transport is best.

Alba PIE MONTE AND VAL L E D’AOS TA

| Alba and Le Langhe

Whether or not you want to taste the extraordinary wines, ALBA is worth the visit for its alluring mix of red-brick medieval towers, Baroque and Renaissance palaces and cobbled streets lined with gastronomic shops. And if you come in October, you might catch the town’s hilarious annual donkey race – a skit on nearby Asti’s prestigious Palio. The town’s only sight as such is its late-Gothic Duomo, standing confectionery pink on the central Piazza Risorgimento. But Alba is primarily a place to stroll and eat. Leading up to the centre from Piazza Savona, the main drag of Via Vittorio Emanuele is a ﬁne, bustling street, with the most tempting of Alba’s local produce on display – wines, truffles, cheeses, weird and wonderful mushroom varieties, and the wickedly sticky nocciola, a nutty, chocolatey cake. Via Cavour is a pleasant medieval street with plenty of wine shops, behind which the donkey race and displays of medieval pageantry attract the crowds during the festival at the beginning of October. There’s also an annual truffle festival later in the month, when you could blow your whole budget on a knobbly truffle or a meal in one of the many swanky restaurants. At the end of April/beginning of May, the Vinum festival gives you the chance to taste ﬁve hundred local wines. Practicalities

The tourist office (April to mid-Nov Mon–Fri 9am–1pm & 2.30–6.30pm, Sat & Sun 9.30am–1.30pm & 2.30–6.30pm; mid-Nov to March Mon–Fri 10am–1pm & 2–6pm; T 0173.35.833, W www.langheroero.it), at Piazza Risorgimento 2, has a free reservation service if you want to stay. You could try the simple and very welcoming Cortiletto d’Alba, Corso M. Coppino 27 (T 0173.366.005, W www .cortilettodalba.com; 3 ), which also offers full meals: lunch special €8.50, dinner tasting-menu €15; or the Savona, a rather smart three-star at Via Roma 1, offering adjacent parking for €6 per night (T 0173.440.440, W www.hotelsavona.com; 5 ). You’ll need to plan ahead to be sure of a room, especially during the October festivals. To sample the ﬁnest of Albese cooking, book the atmospheric and expensive A Enoclub, in medieval wine cellars at Piazza Savona 4 (T 0173.33.994; tasting menu €40; closed Mon), which offers Slow Food perfection and ﬂawless service; on the ground ﬂoor is the more modestly priced Caffè Umberto, with seating on the piazza. For wine by the glass as well as excellent local dishes, try A Vincafe, Via Vittorio Emanuele 12 (T 0173.364.603), which also puts on a lavish complimentary buffet at aperitivo time.

Barolo

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The entire picturesque area is dotted with attractive hill-towns, castles and wineries. A few kilometres south of Alba, in the heart of Le Langhe, perhaps the most famous spot is BAROLO, which gives its name to one of the premier Italian wines. It’s a small village with peach- and ochre-washed houses set among extensive vineyards, and it’s always geared up for the steady stream of wealthy gastronomes and wine connoisseurs who invariably come here for the Enoteca Regionale del Barolo, housed in a turreted castle on Piazza Falletti 1 (Fri–Wed 10am–12.30pm & 3–6.30pm; T 0173.56.277, W www.baroloworld.it). If you want to indulge yourself and stay a while, consider the Hotel Barolo, Via Lomondo 2 (T 0173.56.354, W www.hotelbarolo.it; 3 ), featuring rooms with views and a renowned family-run restaurant, Brezza, offering the very ﬁnest local cuisine.

Asti

Asti’s tourist office is at Piazza Alﬁeri 29 (Mon–Sat 9am–1pm & 2.30–6.30pm, Sun 9am–1pm; T 0141.530.357, W www.astiturismo.it). If you’re intending to visit Asti on the Palio weekend, book a room well in advance; at other times there should be little problem. The best of the affordable options are the conveniently sited Cavour at Piazza Marconi 18 (T 0141.530.222, W www.hotelcavour-asti.com; 2) and the slightly cheaper Genova, Corso Alessandria 26 (T 0141.593.197; 2 ). Renowned for its food, Asti has a wide choice of restaurants, ranging from basic and cheap pizzerias like Monna Laura, Via Cavour 30 (T 0141.594.159; closed Mon), to the excellent and rather pricey Gener Neuv, Lungo Tanaro dei Pescatori 4 (T 0141.557.270; closed Sun dinner & Mon), which serves delicious local cuisine. If you’re into Asti Spumante or want to sample other wines from the region, come during the wine festival, the Douja d’Or, which is held from the second Friday to the third Sunday in September, with tastings in the Palazzo del Collegio from early evening until midnight. The rest of the year, you can always try the Tre Bicchieri, Piazza Statuto 37, an extremely wellstocked and fashionable wine bar.

| Asti • Northern Piemonte

Practicalities

PIE MONTE AND VAL L E D’AOS TA

Some 30km northeast of Alba, the wine continues to ﬂow in ASTI, the capital of Italy’s sparkling wine industry and the most famous producer of spumante. Each September, this small, averagely attractive town becomes the focus of attention as it gears up for its Palio. Though it’s taken nothing like as seriously as Siena’s famous pageant and race, and has been revived to some extent for tourists, you should make an effort to see it if you’re near here at the right time. On the day of the race itself, the third Sunday in September, there’s a thousand-strong procession of citizens dressed as their fourteenth-century ancestors, before the frenetic bare-backed horse race around Piazza Alﬁeri – followed by the awarding of the palio (banner) to the winner and all-night feasting and boozing. The rest of the year, the piazza and the former Palio site, the Campo del Palio, together host the region’s largest open-air market (Wed & Sat). The arcaded Piazza Alﬁeri is officially the centre of town, behind which is the Collegiata di San Secondo (daily 8.30am–noon & 3.30–5.30pm; free), a brick basilica with origins in the ninth century, dedicated to the city’s patron saint and built on the site of the saint’s martyrdom in the second century. Secondo, a Roman officer of the patrician class, who converted to Christianity, was beheaded on March 29 in 119 AD, during the reign of Emperor Hadrian. The main street, Corso Alﬁeri, slices through the town from Piazza Alﬁeri, to the east of which lies the church of San Pietro at Corso Alﬁeri 2 (Tues–Sun 10am–1pm & 3/4–6/7pm). At the other end of the Corso is the Torre Rossa, a medieval tower with a red-and-white chequered brick top, built on the remains of the sixteen-sided Roman tower in which San Secondo was imprisoned and tortured before his martyrdom.

Northern Piemonte The main attraction of northern Piemonte is the mountains, especially the dramatic Alpine Valsesia, which winds up to the foot of Monte Rosa on the Swiss border. On the way is one of the region’s most visited sanctuaries, the Santuario di Oropa near Biella. From here you’re well poised for either Piemonte’s mountains or those of Valle d’Aosta, a few kilometres west. Worth a slight detour is the magical train ride that starts at Domodossola, conveniently en route if you’re heading for Switzerland.

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Biella and around

PIE MONTE AND VAL L E D’AOS TA

| Asti • Northern Piemonte

The sizeable but bland northern-Piemonte city of Novara is a useful transport hub but otherwise not really worth a stop. In passing through, you’ll note that its central basilica, San Gaudenzio, has a striking tower, rather resembling a 122-metre Neoclassical cucumber. On a clear day the Alps, to which this city is a gateway (along with the Italian Lakes; see Chapter 3), make a stupendous backdrop. Otherwise, the area is mostly dominated by rice ﬁelds, soaking wet and heavily mosquito-infested in the warm months. A short train ride northwest from Novara brings you to the provincial capital of BIELLA, known for its wool industry, its periphery studded with nineteenth-century industrial chimneys and the hilltop upper town with the mansions and villas of wool barons. Its small medieval quarter, reached by funicular, is worth a visit – and it gives access to the Santuario di Oropa (daily 8am–noon & 2–7pm; free, €3 for the museum), about 11km northwest of Biella to the foot of Monte Mucrone (bus #2 from the train station; 40min). According to tradition, it was founded in the fourth century by St Eusebio to house a black statue of the Madonna and Child. It’s the most venerated of Piemonte’s shrines, the old basilica being its spiritual centre. The sanctuary is a good starting-point for walks into the surrounding mountains, and a cable car runs regularly up Monte Mucrone from the sanctuary as far as the mountain refuge Albergo Savoia (T 015.849.5131; half-board 2 ), which offers traditional food and basic accommodation by a small mountain lake, Lago Mucrone. A network of marked trails begins here: one of the nicest and easiest is the Passeggiata dei Preti, a level path offering good views of the sanctuary. More energetic is the hike up to the summit of Monte Mucrone itself – a two-hour trek. If you wish, you can stay at the sanctuary, which has around 350 refurbished accommodation options: tourist, comfort, junior suite and suite (T 015.2555.1200, W www.santuariodioropa.it; 1 ). Biella’s tourist office is at Piazza Vittorio Veneto 3 (Mon–Fri 8.30am– 1pm & 2.30–6pm, Sat 9.30am–12.30pm & 2.30–5.30pm; May–Sept also Sun 9am–12.30pm & 2.30–5.30pm; T 015.351.128, W www.atl.biella.it). If you need to stay overnight, try the clean and attractive Bugella, Via Cottolengo 65 (T 015.406.607, W www.hotelbugella.it; 3 ). And check out La Baracca at Via San Eusebio 12 (T 015.21941; closed Sat & Sun & mid-June to mid-July), a bar in a converted nineteenth-century factory building that serves authentic Piemonte meals for about €18; don’t overlook the appealing antipasto buffet. Otherwise, La Civetta, at Piazza Cucco 10/B (T 015.26342; dinner only; closed Tues & Wed), turns out simple regional and Italian fare for €20–25.

Ivrea

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IVREA, to the north of Turin, is well worth a visit in the week leading up to Shrove Tuesday, when there’s a carnival – featuring piping, drumming, masked balls, historic processions and ﬁreworks – that culminates in a bizarre three-day “Battle of the Oranges” when the whole town and hundreds of spectators turn out to pelt each other with oranges – you have to wear a red hat if you don’t want to be a target. At the end of each day, the town is covered in a thick carpet of orange pulp, and the following morning there’s a traditional handing out of polenta and cod. For a place to stay, try the Aquila Nera, Corso Nigra 56 (T 0125.641.416, W www.aquilanera.it; half- and full board available; 2 ), or head 3km northeast out of town to Chiaverano for four-star Castello San Giuseppe (T 0125.424.370, W www.castellosangiuseppe.it; 6 ), set in a converted Carmelite monastery.

Valsesia

PIE MONTE AND VAL L E D’AOS TA

| Asti • Northern Piemonte

Heading on into the northern heights, the main road follows the River Sesia to the foot of multi-peaked Monte Rosa, whose massive bulk dominates four Italian valleys and spreads north into Switzerland. VALSESIA, the easternmost valley, is also the most dramatic and has been dubbed “Italy’s Greenest Valley” – it’s worth going for the ride even if you don’t want to launch a hiking or skiing assault on the mountains. Flanked by dark pine-wooded slopes topped with a toothed ridge of rock, the road winds up the valley, the perspective changing at every turn. ALAGNA, at the head of the valley, right below Monte Rosa, is the most convenient place to stay, whether you want to ski or hike. Popular and predominantly modern, it has a cluster of traditional dwellings of the age-old Swiss religious sect known as the Walsers, who have maintained their unique language and culture here for at least seven centuries. Some of the houses still function as farms, with hay hanging to dry on the slats and wood stacked behind, while others are holiday homes, with geraniums tumbling from window boxes. The tourist office ( Jan–Sept & Dec Mon & Wed–Fri 9am–noon & 3–6pm, Sat & Sun 9am–1pm & 2.30–6.30pm; Oct & Nov Sat & Sun only; T 0163.922.993, W www .alagna.it) is at Piazza Grober 1. Alagna’s cheapest three-star hotel is the Genzianella, Via Centro 33 (T 0163.923.205, W www.pensionegenzianella.com; 2 ). There are lots of walks among the foothills near Alagna, all of which are well marked. However, the toughest and most spectacular hikes are those on Monte Rosa itself. It’s possible to save time and energy by taking the cable car up to the Indren glaciers (3260m), from where you can walk to one of the many rifugi; most of these are open from June to September and some are open all year, but check at the tourist office in Alagna before setting out. All these walks involve a good deal of scree-crossing and some sobering drops, and none is to be taken lightly – you’ll need a good map (the IGC map of the four Monte Rosa valleys shows all paths, rifugi and pistes, as does the Kompass Monte Rosa map), available in Alagna and Varallo, and you should monitor the weather carefully. There’s also an ambitious long-distance circuit of Monte Rosa, starting at Alagna and taking in Zermatt across the Swiss border: reckon on ﬁve days if you make use of ski lifts and cable cars, and a good deal longer if you don’t. Skiing in the area is organized by Monterosa Ski (T 0125.303.111, W www .monterosa-ski.com), which has an office in Alagna, and equipment is available for rent in the village. The valleys here are also popular for canoeing and rafting, and several centres organize classes and excursions – try Hidronica (T 0163.735.301, W www.hidronica.com). Check W www.alagna.it for more information on summer and winter activities in and around Alagna.

Domodossola and over the border At the foot of the Simplon Pass, and handily situated on the main train line between Milan and Bern, in Switzerland (15 trains daily from Novara), is the little town of DOMODOSSOLA. With its arcaded medieval centre and market square, it warrants a visit in its own right, but is more famous as the starting point of a scenic train ride, La Vigezzina–Centovalli, that connects Domodossola with Locarno, across the border in Switzerland, taking in the vineyards and chestnut forests of the Val Vigezzo and Centovalli along the way. The scenery is gorgeous, and, although the ride is pricier than the regular train (one way €19.80), it’s well worth it; InterRail passes are valid. The journey to Locarno takes an hour and a half, but you can get off and explore at any of the pretty ﬂower-strewn stations en route; when you want the next train to stop, just remember to raise the red-andwhite signal on the platform.

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The road to Aosta and the eastern valleys PIE MONTE AND VAL L E D’AOS TA

| The road to Aosta and the eastern valleys 88

The tributary valleys in eastern Valle d’Aosta (W www.regione.vda.it) have suffered most from the skiing industry since they are the easiest to access from Turin and Milan and therefore the most frequented. However, hiking is good here, and experienced mountaineers may be lured by the challenge of climbing Monte Rosa and the Matterhorn from Valtournenche. For all visitors, in the main Aosta Valley you’ll ﬁnd one of the region’s more interesting castles, Fénis.

Valtournenche and the Matterhorn (Cervino) VALTOURNENCHE, headed by the Matterhorn (4478m) at the north end and by the town of Chatillon at the southern central valley end, should be one of the most spectacular of Italy’s mountain valleys, but unfortunately the main towns are overdeveloped and hydroelectric works ruin the views on the plains. The international ski resort Breuil-Cervinia is a functional, modern resort, and even the Matterhorn is a letdown, with tribes of skiers ensuring that its glacier is grubby for much of the year. That said, these are the Alps, and if you can’t manage to carry on to the other valleys further west, you will at least get a taste of chocolate-box chalets and ﬂower-covered meadows straight out of Heidi. Breuil-Cervinia and the Matterhorn

BREUIL-CERVINIA was one of Italy’s ﬁrst ski resorts, built in the prewar years as part of Mussolini’s drive for a healthy nation. In its heyday the ski lifts, soaring to 3500m, broke all records, and its grand hotels ensured the patronage of Europe’s wealthy. Today the wealthy are cossetted in modern buildings outside the resort, leaving the tacky streets of the town for packaged hordes attracted by a large skiing area with lots of easy runs. If you want to climb the Matterhorn (4478m) you should seriously consider approaching from Zermatt in Switzerland; the Italian route is strictly for experts.

Nus and the Castello di Fénis Further up the main valley from Chatillon and overlooked by a ruined castle, the small, pretty village of NUS makes a good base for the Castello di Fénis 2km away (daily: March–June & Sept 9am–6.30pm; July & Aug 9am–7.30pm; Oct–Feb Tues–Sat 10am–noon & 1.30–4.30pm, Sun 10am–noon; €5, guided tours only). Backed by wooded hills and encircled by two rows of turreted walls, the castle is a fairy-tale cluster of towers decorated with scalloped arcades. These defences were primarily aesthetic, with the real job of protecting the valley being left to the less prettiﬁed fortresses of nearby Nus and Quart. Meanwhile, the Fénis branch of the Challant counts concentrated on reﬁning their living quarters with ﬁne Gothic frescoes; the best of these is in the courtyard, above the elaborate twin staircase that leads to the upper storeys. A courtly St George rescues a damsel in distress from the clutches of a tremendous dragon, overlooked by a tribe of protective saints brandishing moral maxims on curling scrolls. There’s a hotel in Fénis – La Chatelaine (T 0165.764.264, E lachatelaine@media vallee.it; 3 ), in Località Chez Sapin, open year-round. However, as Nus has a train station and is close to the main road for buses, you may ﬁnd it more convenient to sleep there: the Florian at Via Risorgimento 3 (T &F 0165.767.968; 2 , breakfast extra) has clean and comfortable doubles and is also open all year.

Aosta and around PIE MONTE AND VAL L E D’AOS TA

AOSTA, the attractive mountain-valley capital of Valle d’Aosta province, is an ideal base for exploring the northwest of the region. Surrounded by the Alps, the town’s key attraction is its position, with access to the lovely valleys of the Parco Nazionale del Gran Paradiso, the ski resorts of Mont Blanc and a sprinkling of castles in between. Founded by the Romans in 25 BC Aosta was primarily an imperial military camp, vestiges of which can be seen in the extensive ruins of some towers and city walls. Remains of medieval Aosta predominate, its narrow cobbled streets and overhanging upper storeys giving the place a very alpine air.

Arrival, information and accommodation

Hotels

solid, if unimaginative, comfort. Located on the less busy side of town, on its own quiet cul-de-sac. Parking nearby. 3

Bus Via Malherbes 18/A T 0165.43.645, W www.hotelbus.it. This bland high-rise offers

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| Aosta and around

You can get to most places within the region by bus from the bus station on Via G. Carrel, but some of the more remote valleys are served only by buses running at school times out of season (contact tourist office for seasonal timetables). The train station is on Piazza Manzetti, south of the centre. Aosta’s tourist office (daily 9am–1pm & 3–8pm; until 6.30pm out of season; April–May closed Sun; T 0165.236.627, W www.regione.vda.it) is at Piazza E. Chanoux 2. Surprisingly, there’s not much choice of accommodation in Aosta: mostly stripped-down, modern ski resort-type structures and not a super-abundance of rooms, so be sure to book early.

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| Aosta and around 90

Le Pageot Via G. Carrel 31 T 0165.32.433, W www.lepageot.info. Handy for both train and bus stations, it also has easy parking and is close to all the sights. Rooms are simple, pleasant and well appointed. 3 Turin Via Torino 14 T 0165.44.593, W www.hotelturin.it. Most centrally located, but starkly modern outside in an almost pre-fab style, and the rooms tend to be quite spartan. Nevertheless, the views of the encircling

mountains can be spectacular, so ask for one on an upper ﬂoor. 3

Campsite Milleluci Località Porossan-Roppoz 15 T 0165.44.274, W www.campingmilleluci.com. Of the several campsites nearby, this is the nearest, just 1km from the historic centre. Set amid mountain views and greenery, with a lodge offering meals and services.

The Town The large, elegant Piazza E. Chanoux and its pavement cafés form the centre of town, from where Via Porta Pretoria and Via Sant’Anselmo lead east – the principal streets for window-shopping and people-watching. In the middle, the Porta Pretoria is one of the town’s most impressive sights: two parallel triplearched gateways that served as the main entrance into the Roman town. North of the gate is the Teatro Romano (daily 9am–1hr before sunset; free); an elegant section of the four-storeyed facade remains, 22m high and pierced with arched windows. Evidence suggests that this Roman theatre was one of the few that was originally roofed. A short walk east of here, outside the main town walls off Via Sant’Anselmo, the church of Sant’Orso (daily: March–Sept 9am–7pm; Oct–Feb 10am–12.30pm & 1.30–4.30pm) houses a number of tenth-century frescoes behind its dull facade. They’re hidden up in the roof where you can examine them at close quarters from specially constructed walkways – though you’ll need to ﬁnd the sacristan to get up there. If you can’t ﬁnd him, content yourself with the ﬁfteenth-century choir stalls, carved with a menagerie of holy men and animals, ranging from bats and monkeys to a tonsured monk. There are even better carvings on the capitals of the Romanesque cloisters (daily: March–June & Sept 9am–7pm; July & Aug 9am–8pm; Oct–Feb 10am–12.30pm & 1.30–5pm) – mostly scenes from the story of Christ. At the far end of Via Sant’Anselmo, the Arco di Augusto was erected in 25 BC to honour the Emperor Augustus, after whom the town was named Augusta Praetoria (Aosta is a corruption of Augusta). Though the arch loses something in being stranded in a sea of traffic and topped by a rustic eighteenth-century slate roof, it’s a sturdy, digniﬁed-looking monument. Beyond is a well-preserved Roman bridge, its single arch spanning the now dried-up bed of the River Buthier. On the other side of town, the Foro Romano on Piazza Giovanni XXIII is now represented mostly by a vaulted passage (cryptoporticus) built under the forum area; such constructions were common enough in Roman forums, probably serving as protected walkways. Nearby, the Museo Archeologico Regionale (daily 9am–6.30pm; free) has interesting exhibits on the settlements in and around Aosta since Neolithic times. Displays include artefacts of the Celtic Salassi tribe who ended up being sold as slaves by the Romans. The nearby cattedrale (April–Sept Mon–Sat 6.30am–noon & 3–8pm, Sun 7am–noon & 3–8pm; Oct–March closes an hour earlier) looks unpromising from the outside, but masks a Gothic interior with more fantastically carved choir stalls, this time sporting a mermaid, a lion and a snail nestled among the saints. Like Sant’Orso, too, it has some impressive tenth-century frescoes hidden in the roof, saved for posterity by the lowering of the ceiling in the fourteenth century; you can visit these on a guided tour (several daily; €7.80).

Eating and drinking

vaulted, was the chapel. Come for the all-youcan-eat lunchtime buffet (€18) in the town's most fascinating café. Closed Mon. Osteria dell’Oca Via E. Aubert 15A T 0165.231.419. On a quiet little square, local cuisine here includes pizzas, all topped with fresh ingredients; about €25 for a full meal. Closed Mon. The Old Distillery Pub Via Près Fosses 7. Tucked away down a narrow side-alley, this place offers a very welcoming and energetic after-dark scene, especially for, but not limited to, the Anglophone crowd. Pub food available. Open evenings only, till 2am.

West of Aosta: Castello di Sarre West from Aosta, the main valley holds a number of castles, the best of which is the thirteenth-century Castello di Sarre ( July & Aug daily 9am–7.30pm; May, June & Sept daily 9am–6.30pm; Oct–Feb Tues–Sat 10am–noon & 1.30–4.30pm, Sun till 5.30pm; March & April Tues–Sat 10am–noon & 1.30–5pm, Sun till 6pm; €5), accessible by bus or train from Aosta, some 5km away. It’s a ten-minute walk up a hill covered with apple orchards from the St Maurice-Sarre train station; coming by bus, walk from the bus stop up the main road and take the unmarked turning just before the tollbooth. Sarre is the former hunting lodge of Vittorio Emanuele II, who, the story goes, actually bought the castle by mistake. He had set his sights on the property of Aymaville opposite, but the agent sent to buy the castle was confused about the direction in which the river ﬂowed, and ended up buying Sarre instead. The king made the best of a bad job, permanently stamping the halls of the castle with his astounding taste in interior decor, pushing the hunting-lodge motif to its limits, with horns of wild ibex lining the main gallery and thousands of white chamois skulls studding the stuccoed festoons. Pride of place is given to the ﬁrst ibex slain by the king.

| Aosta and around

Grotta Azzurra Via Croce di Città 97 T 0165.262.474. Pizza, pasta and good Italian side dishes keep this place ﬁlled to the brim with animated diners. Expect €15 a head. Closed Wed. La Cave Via Challand 34 T 0165.44.164. Select wines in a simpatico setting, this is the dining and drinking adjunct to the valley’s oldest enoteca. Full meals of cold cuts or just a glass of over ﬁfty wines on offer alla mescita each week, chosen from some 800 labels. Very popular in the early evening. Nazionale Piazza Chanoux 9 T0165.262.158. Located under the arcades, part of which constituted a former convent; the main room, round and

PIE MONTE AND VAL L E D’AOS TA

Being foremost a resort town, ﬁnding a congenial place to eat or drink here is no problem. There’s a full range of food on offer, from snacks to Italian to French to local mountain fare, and a range of prices, as well. Via E. Aubert and Via Porta Pretoria are best for a trawl.

North of Aosta: Colle di Gran San Bernardo Immediately north of Aosta, the Colle di Gran San Bernardo (2473m) leads the way into Switzerland. Named after the famous monastery that for centuries provided shelter to travellers on the main pilgrim route from Northern Europe to Rome, it was the home of the eponymous big brown-and-white dogs that rescued Alpine travellers in distress. The history of the mountain pass is well documented in the museum ( June–Sept daily 9am–6pm; €5) housed in the monastery-hospice, although you’ll need your passport to visit as it’s situated just over the border in Switzerland. The spectacular pass is open only during summer, but the border is open year-round by way of a tunnel.

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The Gran Paradiso National Park PIE MONTE AND VAL L E D’AOS TA

| The Gran Paradiso National Park

For some of the area’s most beautiful mountains and valleys, make for the south, down to the Parco Nazionale del Gran Paradiso, half in Piemonte and half in Valle d’Aosta (W www.pngp.it; from Piemonte access is through the village of Ceresole Reale) – Italy’s ﬁrst national park, spread around the valleys at the foot of 4061m-high Monte Gran Paradiso. The park’s three valleys – Cogne, Valsavarenche and Val di Rhêmes – are popular, but tourist development has been cautious and well organized. The hotels are good (you get far more for your money than you would in one of the nearby towns) and the campsites not too vast – camping outside of campsites is not permitted. There are a few mountain rifugi and bivacchi (unoccupied shelters) between which run well-marked footpaths. Though it’s primarily a summer resort for walkers, the cross-country skiing is also good, and every winter a 45-kilometre Gran Paradiso trek is organized at Cogne (contact the tourist office in Cogne for details). The starting-point for the ascent of Gran Paradiso itself is Pont in the Valsavarenche, while Cogne gives access to the Alta Via 2, a long, high-level mountain trail. Regular buses run throughout the year from Aosta to Cogne and Valsavarenche, and along the Val di Rhêmes from mid-June to mid-September (see p.94). If you’re using your own transport, access to either of these valleys is easiest from the village of Introd, about 2km from Villeneuve, which is on the main bus route.

Val di Cogne The Val di Cogne is the principal, most popular and most dramatic section of the park. Its lower reaches are narrow, the road running above the fast-ﬂowing Grand Eyvia River overlooked by sheer wavy-ridged mountains. Further on, the valley broadens out around the main village, COGNE, which is surrounded by gentle green meadows with glacier-covered mountains rising beyond. The tourist office, in the centre of town at Via Bourgeois 34 (daily 9am–12.30pm & 3–5.30/6pm; T 0165.74.040, W www.cogne.org), has maps with descriptions in English of walks, one of which is an easy, scenic stroll that follows the river, with the glaciers in view for most of the way. Before leaving the village of Cogne, it’s worth visiting the Maison de Gerard Dayné ( July & Aug 6 tours daily 10.40am–6.30pm; at other times, ask at the tourist office or call T 0165.749.264; €3), a typical nineteenth-century Valdaostan house evocative of the traditional rustic lifestyle.

Park wildlife

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Gran Paradiso National Park owes its foundation to King Vittorio Emanuele II, who donated his extensive hunting park to the state in 1922, ensuring that the population of ibex that he and his hunters had managed to reduce to near extinction, would after all survive. There are now around 3500 ibex here and about 6000 chamois, living most of the year above the tree line but descending to the valleys in winter and spring. The most dramatic sightings are during the mating season in November and December, when you may see pairs of males ﬁghting it out for possession of a female. You might also spy golden eagles nesting, and there are a number of rare alpine ﬂowers, most of which can be seen in the botanical garden in the Val di Cogne.

Practicalities

Hotels Bellevue Rue Grand Paradis 22, Cogne T 0165.74.825, Wwww.hotelbellevue.it. Alpine ambiance, but with absolute luxury as the keynote. This is a Relais & Chateau property and boasts a world-class health and beauty spa among its many amenities. Three nights minimum. Self-contained chalets also available at about €100 per person per night for half-board. 7 Herbetet Frazione Valnontey 52 T0165.74.180, W www.hotelherbetet.com. Swiss-style chalet with rustic mountain decor, including wood-beamed ceilings and cosy comforters. The restaurant features mostly Italian dishes, with a mix of country game and French cuisine. Open mid-May to mid-Sept. B&B, half- or full board available. 3 La Barme Frazione Valnontey T 0165.74.158, W www.hotellabarme.com. This very rustic stone complex with a small spa is set up for both summer and winter sports, including horseriding and skiing. Closed Oct & Nov. Restaurant offers set menus for non-guests, starting at €15. 4 Paradisia Frazione Valnontey 36 T 0165.74.158, Wwww.hotelparadisia.com. Converted mountain chalet offering homely comforts. Restaurant services for non-guests,

featuring northern Italian and Swiss-style cookery. Open Easter–Sept. 3 Stambecco Rue des Clementines 21, Cogne T0165.74.068, Wwww.hotelstambecco.com. Alpine chalet in style, very welcoming, with rooms featuring natural wood and warm colours. 3

Campsites Gran Paradiso Frazione Valnontey 59 T0165.749.204, W www.campinggranparadiso.it. 120 sites. Open mid-May to mid-Sept. Vallée de Cogne Località Fabrique, Via Cavagnet 7, Cogne T0165.749.279, Wwww.hotelvalleede cogne.it. Just on the northwest edge of town, next to a full-service hotel of the same name and management. Open year-round.

| The Gran Paradiso National Park

Park accommodation is largely of the mountain lodge variety and places are regularly monitored to maintain high standards of service. Some close part of the year, and all quickly get booked solid during peak seasons. Most will require halfor full board. There are several campsites, closed from about mid-September to about mid-May, so check exact dates. Many hotels here have restaurants open to non-guests, and Cogne has more choices, including several delicatessens that will make up sandwiches for you.

PIE MONTE AND VAL L E D’AOS TA

The small village of VALNONTEY, 2.5km southwest of Cogne, is the startingpoint for a steep, three-hour walk up to the Rifugio V. Sella (T 0165.74.310, W www.rifugiosella.com; Easter–Sept; 3.5hr one way), a demanding hike that’s incredibly popular on summer Sundays and in early August. The path passes a botanical garden (mid-June to mid-Sept daily 10am–6.30pm; €2.70), with rare alpine ﬂora, then zigzags up through a forest and onto exposed mountainside before reaching the rifugio, set on a grassy plateau. At the mountain tarn of Lago Loson, a ﬁfteen-minute walk from the rifugio, you may well spot ibex or more timid chamois, especially at sunset and sunrise, when there are fewer people around. Hardened hikers who can cope with a stretch of climbing (difficulty “E”) can press on over the Colle de Lauson to the Val di Rhêmes.

Restaurants Brasserie du Bon Bec Rue Bourgeois 72, Cogne T0165.749.288. Rustic mountain food served by staff in traditional costume in an impressive woodpanelled “hut”; €25–30 per person. Closed Mon. Lou Ressignon Rue Mines de Cogne 22, Cogne T0165.74.034. Hearty soups and stews plus a good wine list; full meals run €25–30. Closed Mon dinner & Wed.

Valsavarenche Although not as spectacular as the Val di Cogne, Valsavarenche, the next valley west, has its own kind of beauty, attracting seasoned walkers rather than gentle amblers. The most popular route is the ascent of Gran Paradiso, from Pont at the end of the valley. Though reckoned to be the easiest of the higher

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Alps, it is nevertheless a climb rather than a hike, with no path marked beyond the Rifugio Vittorio Emanuele II (T 0165.95.920; mid-March to mid-Sept), two and a half hours from Pont. If you feel safer walking along footpaths, the best of the hikes are from the village of Degioz, a locality of Valsavarenche, up to the Rifugio Orvielles (2hr 30min; T 0165.905.816) and then on to a series of high mountain lakes. This takes seven hours, but you can shorten it a bit by taking path #3a down to Pont. Less taxing is the two-hour walk from Pont towards the glacier Grand Etret at the head of the valley, although the ﬁrst stretch is pretty boring. Practicalities

| The northwest: around Mont Blanc

The only hotel in Degioz is the Parco Nazionale (T 0165.905.706; Jan 1 & April–Sept; 3 , breakfast extra), while in Pont there is the Genzianella, a chaletstyle establishment (T 0165.95.393, W www.genzianella.aosta.it; June–Sept; 3 , breakfast extra). The area is well supplied with campsites, of which the nicest is Pont Breuil (T 0165.95.458; June–Sept) in Pont, with a well-stocked site shop (there’s no other for kilometres around); ibex come down to graze on the grassy meadow around the tents. There’s also a leafy campsite at Località Plan de la Presse, Gran Paradiso (T 0165.905.801; June–Sept). There are places to eat in Degioz, such as the Pub Brasserie l’Abro de la Leunna at Frazione Degioz 93 (T 0165.905.732; closed Wed), but at Pont you’ll have to cook for yourself or ask at one of the hotels.

Val di Rhêmes The least touristed of the valleys, Val di Rhêmes, is also headed by glaciers. The best place to stay is BRUIL, a hamlet at the end of the valley, from where most of the walks start. There’s a fairly easy path along the river to a waterfall, the Cascata di Goletta, at its most spectacular after the spring snowmelt, and from here you can continue to the mountain lake of Goletta and the Rifugio Gian Federico Benevolo (T 0165.936.143, W www.benevolo.info; March–Sept, closed ﬁrst half of June), taking in some splendid views on the way. Economical hotel options in Bruil include Chez Lidia (T 0165.936.103, W www.hotelchezlidia.it; 2 , breakfast extra) and the Galisia (T &F 0165.936.100; 1 , breakfast extra); both are open all year.

The northwest: around Mont Blanc

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Dominated by the snowy peaks of Mont Blanc (Monte Bianco to the Italians), the northern reaches of Valle d’Aosta are spectacular and very popular. The most sensational views are from the cable cars that glide and swoop (at times, alarmingly so) across the mountain to Chamonix in France. However, the trip is expensive (€55 return, €46 one way), even if you take a bus back to Italy through the elevenkilometre-long Mont Blanc tunnel, and the service is often suspended because of bad weather. If the cable car seems too pricey, you can walk up to the Testa d’Arpy – a natural balcony with a bird’s-eye view up the valley to Mont Blanc – from the sprawling resort of LA THUILE, on the road to the Petit-St-Bernard Pass into France. Buses run from Pré-St-Didier at the end of the Valle d’Aosta railway line to La Thuile, from where it’s just over two-hours’ walk by path or road to the La Genzianella hotel (T 0165.841.689, W www.hotelgenzianella.net; 3 ) at the top of the Colle San Carlo. From here a path leads through woods to Testa d’Arpy in

Courmayeur and Mont Blanc

| The northwest: around Mont Blanc

COURMAYEUR (W www.courmayeur.com) is the smartest and most popular of Valle d’Aosta’s ski resorts, much used by package-tour operators. The skiing is good, though there’s little to challenge experts, and the scenery is magniﬁcent, but, predictably, what remains of the old village is enmeshed in a web of ersatz Alpine chalets and après-ski hangouts. There are two ski schools here: Monte Biano Ski and Snowboard School (W www.scuolascimontebianco.com) and the Snowboard and Ski School Courmayeur (W www.scuolascicourmayeur .it). Lift passes start at about €200 for six days, either consecutive or non-consecutive. If you’ve come to hike or take the cable cars across to Chamonix, the most convenient place to stay is LA PALUD, 5km outside Courmayeur (three buses a day). The cable car runs from La Palud to Punta Helbronner all year round, but continues to Chamonix only between July and September (Punta Hellbronner– Chamonix €39, Punta Hellbronner–Chamonix and return by coach €78). There are between ten and twelve departures a day, depending on the time of year, roughly hourly starting at 8.30am – although ultimately the regularity depends on the weather. To be sure of good views, you’ll need to set out early since it’s usually cloudy by midday; be sure also to get there in plenty of time, especially on summer weekends, as it’s much used by summer skiers. Even if it’s blazing hot in the valley, the temperature plunges to near freezing at the top, so come prepared. There are good walks along the two valleys at the foot of the Mont Blanc glaciers, both of which have seasonal campsites accessible by bus from Courmayeur. Val Ferret to the west is the more interesting option – you can walk back from Frebouze over Monte de la Saxe, with some incredible views of Mont Blanc en route. Among the ﬁfty-odd hotels in Courmayeur, one of the cheapest is the one-star mountain chalet Venezia at Via delle Villette 2 (T &F 0165.842.461; 1 ); or there’s the three-star Crampon, on the same street at no. 8 (T 0165.842.385, W www .crampon.it; Christmas–April & July to mid-Sept; 5 ). Hotels in La Palud include the charming Chalet Joli (T 0165.869.722, W www.chaletjoli.com; 4 ) and the extremely comfortable Vallée Blanche (T 0165.897.002, W www.hotelvallee blanche.com; 5 ). Most of these hotels offer special pricing arrangements with local restaurants for their guests’ main meals.

PIE MONTE AND VAL L E D’AOS TA

around ten minutes. It’s well worth having a good map (IGC Monte Bianco), not so much to ﬁnd your way as to identify the peaks and glaciers spread out before you. La Thuile itself is a rather overdeveloped resort but it’s worth popping into the tourist office at Via M. Collomb 36 (daily 9am–12.30pm & 3–6pm; T 0165.883.049, W www.lathuile.it) for maps. The best accommodation is up the mountain at Du Glacier, Petite Golette 14 ( July–Sept & Nov–April; phone in advance to check that there’s room, and in high season they may require a minimum stay of three days; T 0165.884.137, W www.hotelduglacier.it; 3 ). Of the walks starting from the hotel the most interesting is the 45-minute hike to Lago d’Arpy, from where a path leads down into La Thuile.

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Travel details Trains PIE MONTE AND VAL L E D’AOS TA

| Travel details 96

Alba to: Asti (hourly; 50min). Aosta to: Pré-St-Didier (12 daily; 40–50min); Sarre (11 daily; 6min). Novara to: Biella (11 daily; 50min–1hr 5min). Torino (all stations) to: Alba (hourly; 1hr 10min–1hr 40min); Aosta (hourly; 2–3hr); Asti (hourly; 30min–1hr); Milan (Milano Centrale; hourly; 50min–2hr); Novara (hourly; 1hr 5min–1hr 50min).

Buses Alba to: Barolo (2 daily Mon–Sat; 30min). Aosta to: Cogne (6–7 daily; 50min); Courmayeur (13–16 daily; 1hr); Gran San Bernardo (2–4 daily; 55min); Pont Valsavarenche (mid-June to mid-Sept

3 daily, rest of year weekdays only; 1hr 10min); Rhêmes Notre Dame (mid-June to mid-Sept 3 daily; 1hr). Biella to: Ivrea (6 daily; 2hr 25min); Santuario di Oropa (7 daily; 40min). Chatillon to: Breuil-Cervinia (6 daily; 1hr–1hr 30min). Cogne to: Valnontey (July & early Sept 9 daily; Aug 22 daily; 15min). Pré-St-Didier to: Courmayeur (15 daily; 10–25min); La Thuile (11 daily; 25min). Saluzzo to: Paesana (Valle Po; Mon–Sat 11 daily, 3 Sun; 2hr); Val Varaita (3 daily; 1hr 15min). Torino (Corso Marconi) to: Saluzzo (10 daily; 1hr 20min). Torino (Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 131) to: Aosta (8 daily; 2–3hr); Cervinia (1 Sun; 2hr 15min); Courmayeur (7 daily; 4hr); Ivrea (12 daily; 1hr 15min).

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CHAPTER 2 L IGURIA

✱

| Highlights ✱

✱

Highlights

Genoa With its rabbit warren of medieval streets, revamped port area and clutch of ﬁrstrate museums and churches, Genoa could easily justify a week of your time. See p.100 The train from Genoa to Casella An excellent way to escape the crowds on the coast and explore some of Italy’s most spectacular mountain scenery. See p.114 Finale Ligure If you just want somewhere to relax and spend time swimming and beach-lounging, look

no further – this is the classic Ligurian family resort. See p.116

✱

San Remo With its famous Art Nouveau casino, elegant palm-tree-lined seafront and unique old quarter, San Remo affords a glimpse of old-style Riviera glamour. See p.119

✱

Cinque Terre Five picturesque villages shoehorned into one of the most rugged parts of Liguria’s coastline and linked by a highly scenic coastal walking path. See p.129

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San Remo beach

2 |

heltering on the seaward side of the mountains that divide Piemonte from the coast, Liguria is the classic introduction to Italy for travellers journeying overland through France. There’s an unexpected change as you cross the border: the Italian Riviera, as Liguria’s commercially developed strip of coast is known, has more variety of landscape and architecture than its French counterpart, and is generally less frenetic. And if you want to escape the crowds, the mountains, which in places drop sheer to the sea, can offer respite from the standard format of beach, beach and more beach. Teetering on slopes carpeted with olives and vines are isolated mountain villages that retain their own rural culture and cuisine. The chief city of the region is Genoa, an ancient, sprawling port often acclaimed as the most atmospheric of all Italian cities. It has a dense and fascinating old quarter that is complemented by a vibrant social and ethnic mix and a newly energized dockside district. Genoa stands more or less in the middle of Liguria, between two distinct stretches of coast. To the west, the Riviera di Ponente is the more developed of the two, a long ribbon of hotels and resorts packed in summer with Italian families. Picking your route carefully means you can avoid the most crowded places, and in any case there’s nowhere really overcrowded as long as you avoid August. San Remo, the grande dame of Riviera resorts, is ﬂanked by hillsides covered with glasshouses, and is a major centre for the worldwide export of ﬂowers; Albenga and Noli are attractive medieval centres that have also retained a good deal of character; and Finale Ligure is a thoroughly pleasant Mediterranean seaside town. On Genoa’s eastern side is the more rugged Riviera di Levante, a mix of mountains and ﬁshing villages, some formerly accessible only by boat, that appealed to the early nineteenth-century Romantics who “discovered” the Riviera, preparing the way for other artists and poets and the ﬁrst package tourists. It’s still wild and extremely beautiful in places, although any sense of remoteness has long gone, and again you’d do best to visit outside peak season (August). Resorts like Portoﬁno are among the most expensive in the country, although nearby Santa Margherita Ligure makes a great base for exploring the surrounding coastline by train or car, as does the pretty ﬁshing village of Camogli. Walks on Monte di Portoﬁno and through the dramatic coastal scenery of the Cinque Terre take you through scrubland and vineyards for memorable views over broad gulfs and jutting headlands. In a car, the shore road is for the most part a disappointment: the coast is extremely built up, and you get a much better sense of the beauty of the region by taking the east–west autostrada which cuts through the mountains a few kilometres inland by means of a mixture of tunnels and viaducts. Fleeting bursts of daylight between tunnels give glimpses of the string of resorts along the coast, silvery olive groves and a

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brilliant sea. However, the real plus of Liguria is that so many of the coastal resorts are most easily accessible by train, with regular services stopping just about everywhere, and, because the track is forced to squeeze along the narrow coastal strip, stations are almost invariably centrally located in towns and villages.

Genoa

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GENOA (Genova in Italian) is “the most winding, incoherent of cities, the most entangled topographical ravel in the world”. So said Henry James, and the city – Italy’s sixth largest – is still marvellously eclectic, vibrant and full of rough-edged style. Sprawled behind Italy’s biggest port is a dense and fascinating warren of medieval alleyways: “La Superba”, as it was known at the height of its powers, boasts more zest and intrigue than all the surrounding coastal resorts put together. It’s here that most of the city’s important palazzi are to be found, built in the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries by Genoa’s wealthy mercantile families and now transformed into museums and art galleries. The tidying-up hasn’t sanitized the old town, however; the core of the city, between the two stations and the waterfront, is dark and slightly menacing, but the overriding impression is of a buzzing hive of

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activity – food shops nestled in the portals of former palaces, carpenters’ workshops sandwiched between designer furniture outlets, everything surrounded by a crush of people and the squashed vowels of the impenetrable Genoese dialect that has, over the centuries, absorbed elements of Neapolitan, Calabrese and Portuguese. Aside from the cosmopolitan street life, you should seek out the Cattedrale di San Lorenzo with its fabulous treasury, small medieval churches such as San Donato and San Matteo, and the Renaissance palazzi of Via Garibaldi which contain Genoa’s art collections, as well as furniture and decor from the grandest days of the city’s illustrious past. Some history

Genoa made its money at sea, through trade, colonial exploitation and piracy. By the thirteenth century, after playing a major part in the Crusades, the Genoese were roaming the Mediterranean, bringing back ideas as well as goods: the city’s architects were using Arab pointed arches a century before the rest of Italy. The San Giorgio banking syndicate effectively controlled the city for much of the ﬁfteenth century, and cold-shouldered Columbus (who had grown up in Genoa) when he sought funding for his voyages. With Spanish backing, he opened up new Atlantic trade routes that ironically reduced Genoa to a backwater. Following foreign invasion, in 1768 the Banco di San Giorgio was forced to sell the Genoese

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Regional food and wine

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| Genoa

Liguria may lie in the north of Italy, but its benign Mediterranean climate, and to some extent its cooking, belong further south. Traditionally, the recipes from this region make something out of nothing, and the best-known Ligurian speciality is pesto, the simplest of dishes, invented by the Genoese to help their long-term sailors ﬁght off scurvy, and made with chopped basil, garlic, pine nuts and grated sharp cheese (pecorino or parmesan) ground up together in olive oil. It’s used as a sauce for pasta (often ﬂat trenette noodles, or knobbly little potato-ﬂour shapes known as troﬁe), and often served with a few boiled potatoes and green beans, or stirred into soup to make minestrone alla genovese. Other dishes to look out for are cima alla genovese (cold, stuffed veal); the widely available torta pasqualina – a spinach-and-cheese pie with eggs; golden focaccia bread; often ﬂavoured with olives, sage or rosemary, or covered with toppings; and sardenaira – a Ligurian pizza made with tomatoes, onions and garlic. And lots of things with chickpeas, which grow abundantly along the coast and crop up in farinata, a kind of chickpea pancake displayed in broad, round baking trays that you’ll see everywhere, and in zuppa di ceci. Otherwise, ﬁsh dominates – not surprising in a region where more than two-thirds of the population lives on the coast. Local anchovies are a common antipasto, while pasta with a variety of ﬁsh and seafood sauces appears everywhere (mussels, scampi, octopus and clams are all excellent); you’ll ﬁnd delicious polpo (octopus), usually served cold with potatoes, good swordﬁsh, and dishes like ciuppin or ﬁsh soup, burrida di seppie (cuttleﬁsh stew), or ﬁsh in carpione (marinated in vinegar and herbs). Salt cod (baccalà) and wind-dried cod (stoccoﬁsso) are big local favourites. Many restaurants in Rapallo and along the Tigullio coast serve bagnun, a dish based on anchovies, tomato, garlic, onion and white wine, and in Cinque Terre and Lévanto you’ll often see gattaﬁn – a delicious deep-fried vegetable pasty. Liguria’s soil and aspect aren’t well suited to vine-growing, although plenty of local wine – mainly white – is quite drinkable. The steep, terraced slopes of the Cinque Terre are home to some decent eponymous white wine and a sweet, expensive dessert wine called Sciacchetrà, made from partially dried grapes. From the Riviera di Ponente, look out for the crisp whites of Pigato (from Albenga) and Vermentino (from Imperia), as well as the acclaimed Rossese di Dolceacqua, Liguria’s best red.

colony of Corsica to the French, and a century later, the city became a hotbed of radicalism: Mazzini, one of the main protagonists of the Risorgimento, was born here, and in 1860 Garibaldi set sail for Sicily with his “Thousand” from the city’s harbour. Around the same time, Italy’s industrial revolution began in Genoa, with steelworks and shipyards spreading along the coast. These suffered heavy bombing in World War II, and the subsequent economic decline hobbled Genoa for decades. Things started to look up in the 1990s. State funding to celebrate the 500th anniversary of Columbus’s 1492 voyage paid to renovate many of the city’s lateRenaissance palaces and the old port area, with Genoa’s most famous son of modern times, Renzo Piano (best known as the co-designer of Paris’s Pompidou Centre), taking a leading role. The results of a twelve-year programme that saw Genoa becoming a European Capital of Culture in 2004 are evident all over the city.

Arrival, transport and information

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Genoa has two main train stations: Stazione Principe, on Piazza Acquaverde, just north of the port and west of the centre, and Stazione Brignole on Piazza Verdi, east of the old town. Buses #30, #33 and #37, among others, ply between the two. There are staffed left-luggage offices at both stations. Buses heading to the city outskirts – the Riviera, and inland – arrive on Piazza della Vittoria,

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GENOA ACCOMMODATION Agnello d’Oro Astoria Bel Soggiorno Bristol Palace Il Salotto di Lucilla Ostello di Genova

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| Genoa

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Various operators offer tours of Genoa: Pippo run a mini-train from the port around the city centre; tours last 40 minutes (adults €6.50, children €3.50). PesciViaggi organize open-top bus tours with commentary that start from Piazza Caricamento, near the Aquarium, and last an hour (€10, children €5). Alternatively, at weekends you can take a walking tour around the old town, booked through the tourist ofﬁce (€12, under-12s free; W www.genova-turismo.it).

| Genoa

a few minutes’ walk south of Brignole. The Aeroporto Cristoforo Colombo (T 010.60151, W www.aeroportodigenova.com) is 6km west of the city centre and is connected to it by the Volabus, which runs to Stazione Principe, Piazza de Ferrari and Stazione Brignole roughly every 40 minutes throughout the day; tickets cost €6 and it’s about half an hour to Stazione Brignole. Taxis pull up outside the Arrivals building and charge a ﬁxed price of €7 per person to Stazione Principe, €8 to Brignole (minimum 3 people). The best way to get around the city is to walk, but you may want to use the city’s public transport network of buses and metros (T 800.085.311 Mon–Fri 8.15am–4.30pm, W www.amt.genova.it) to go from one side of the city centre to the other or to reach outlying sights; tickets cost €1.20 and are valid for 90 minutes. AMT also run the lifts and funiculars that scale the city’s many hills; tickets to use these cost €0.70. You can also buy all-day transport tickets for €3.50, or a museum card that includes public transport (see box, p.107). There are a dozen or so central car parks, all of which cost around €20 per day; the largest is beneath Piazza della Vittoria (open 24hr); there are several others in and around the Porto Antico. The old quarter is barred to traffic. There are two central tourist offices: next to the opera house on Piazza de Ferrari (Mon–Sun 9am–1pm & 2.30–6.30pm; T 010.860.6122, W www.turismo.comune .genova.it), and Via Garibaldi 12 (daily 9am–1pm & 2.30–6.30pm; T 010.557.2903), as well as kiosks at the airport and the Porto Antico, just off Piazza Caricamento.

Accommodation There’s no shortage of accommodation in Genoa, but many of the budget hotels – especially those around the train stations – are grimy and depressing, and you need to look hard to ﬁnd the exceptions. The area just west of Stazione Brignole (Piazza Colombo and Via XX Settembre) is preferable to anything around Stazione Principe. There’s a handful of quality hotels in the old quarter, though you should steer clear of the one-star places down by the port (on and around Via di Prè). Hotels

104

Afﬁtacamere San Lorenzo Vico Scureria La Vecchia 1 T010.254.3049, Wwww.sanlorenzo genova.tk. Two spotless rooms in a ﬁfteenthcentury building tucked away in the web of streets around the Duomo. 2 –3 Agnello d’Oro Vico Monachette 6 T010.246.2084, Wwww.hotelagnellodoro.it. Spacious, modernized rooms – some with balconies – in a seventeenthcentury palace alongside the Palazzo Reale and within spitting distance of Stazione Principe. 2 –3 Astoria Piazza Brignole 4 T010.873.316, W www .hotelastoriagenova.it. This large hotel has big,

atmospheric rooms and plenty of faded grandeur. A reliable and interesting choice, a short walk from Stazione Brignole. 5 Bel Soggiorno Via XX Settembre 19/2 T010.581.418, Wwww.belsoggiornohotel.com. Run by a gregarious German woman (who speaks English), this is a welcoming place, with a cosy lobby and breakfast room, though the rooms are a little lacking in character. 3 Bristol Palace Via XX Settembre 35 T 010.592.541, W www.bristolpalace.it. Grand old pile near Stazione Brignole, full of antique furniture, old masters and an Edwardian sense

Genoa addresses

Major Vico Spada 4 T010.247.4174, Wwww .hotelmajorgenova.it. A great location in the Old Town, along with clean and well-furnished rooms with TV, make this a great bargain. 2

Hostel

| Genoa

of order and discretion. Rooms are large, attractive and have a/c, and online bargains often abound. 5 Cairoli Via Cairoli 14/4 T 010.246.1454, W www.hotelcairoligenova.com. A superior three-star, whose brightly furnished, modern, en-suite rooms are soundproof. There’s also a roof terrace and two apartments for rent. One of the city’s best deals. 2 –3 Il Salotto di Lucilla Passo Palestro 3/5 T 010.882.391, Wwww.ilsalottodilucilla .com. A quiet, elegant B&B with a lovely sitting room and great breakfasts, right in the heart of town. The three rooms have private bathrooms and TV. Book in advance. 2 –4

L IGURIA

Genoa is one of the handful of Italian cities with a double system of street-numbering: commercial establishments, such as bars and restaurants, have red numbers (rosso), while all other buildings have black numbers (nero) – and the two systems don’t run in tandem. This means, for example, that Via Banchi 35/R might be next door to Via Banchi 89N, but several hundred metres from Via Banchi 33/N.

Ostello di Genova Passo Costanzi 10 T010.242.2457, W www.ostellogenova.it. Genoa’s HI hostel is clean and well run, although its out-oftown location means you will be heavily reliant on buses. It’s up in the hills of Righi, north of the centre. From Stazione Principe take bus #35, then switch at the ﬁfth stop onto bus #40; from Brignole bus #40 or #640 all the way. Hostel closed 11.30am–2.30pm. Dorm beds from €17.

The City Genoa’s atmospheric Old Town spreads outwards from the port in a confusion of tiny alleyways (caruggi), bordered by Via Gramsci along the waterfront and by Via Garibaldi to the north. The caruggi are lined with high buildings, usually six or seven storeys, set very close together. Grocers, textile workshops and bakeries jostle for position with boutiques, design outlets and goldsmiths amid a ﬂurry of shouts, smells and scrawny cats. The cramped layout of the area reﬂects its medieval politics. Around the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries, the city’s principal families – Doria, Spinola, Grimaldi and Fieschi – marked out certain streets and squares as their territory, even extending their domains to include churches: to pray in someone else’s chapel was to risk being stabbed in the back. New buildings on each family’s patch had to be slotted in wherever they could, resulting in a maze of crooked alleyways that was the battleground of dynastic feuds which lasted well into the eighteenth century. Piazza de Ferrari and Piazza Matteotti

If Genoa has a centre it’s probably Piazza de Ferrari, a mainly pedestrian open space that separates old Genoa from the nineteenth-century city. Overlooked by a statue of Garibaldi in front of the grand facade of the Carlo Felice opera house, one side of the square is taken up by a ﬂank of the sixteenth-century Palazzo Ducale, home to the doge of Genoa between 1384 and 1515, whose huge vaulted atrium makes a splendid exhibition hall. During summer parts of the rest of the building are also open to the public, and you can visit the vast hall of the Maggior Consiglio upstairs, where massive chandeliers hang above the space once occupied by the 400 Genoese nobles who ruled the maritime republic. You can also view the Doge’s Chapel, perhaps the most frescoed room of all time, and from there climb up to the Torre Grimaldi (early July–Sept Tues–Sun 10am–1pm & 3–6pm; €5) for the views and for some of the grimmest dungeons you’ll ever see, home for a while to Garibaldi and another Italian patriot, Jacopo Ruffini, who cut his own throat here in 1833.

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Around the corner, Piazza Matteotti is home to the main entrance of the Palazzo Ducale and the Gesù church (Mon–Sat 7am–12.45pm & 4–7.30pm), which was designed by Pellegrino Tibaldi at the end of the sixteenth century and contains a mass of marble and gilt stucco and some ﬁne Baroque paintings, including Guido Reni’s Assumption in the right aisle and two works by Rubens: The Miracles of St Ignatius on the left and The Circumcision on the high altar.

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If you’re planning to visit a number of museums, it might be worth investing in the city’s museum card, or Card Musei, which costs €12 for 24hr (including public transport €13.50), or €16 for 48hr (including public transport €20). It’s valid for most of Genoa’s museums and gives discounts at others. You can buy the card at the tourist ofﬁce or from the museums themselves.

Via San Lorenzo and the Cattedrale

Old Genoa’s main artery, Via San Lorenzo, leads from Piazza Matteotti down to the port, a pedestrianized stretch that makes for a busy evening passeggiata, and a handy reference point when negotiating the old city, which it effectively splits in two. On the eastern side, the Cattedrale di San Lorenzo (daily 9am–noon & 3–6pm) anchors the square of the same name, its facade an elaborate confection of twisting, ﬂuted columns and black-and-white striped stone that was added by Gothic craftsmen from France in the early thirteenth century. The stripes here, like other examples throughout the city, were a sign of prestige: families could use them only if they had a permit, awarded for “some illustrious deed to the advantage of their native city”. While the rest of Genoa’s churches were portioned out between the ruling dynasties, the cathedral remained open to all. The interior has some well-preserved Byzantine frescoes of the Last Judgement above the main entrance, and is home, off the left aisle, to the large Renaissance chapel of St John the Baptist, whose ashes – legend has it – once rested in the thirteenth-century sarcophagus. After a particularly bad storm in medieval times, priests carried his casket through the city down to the port to placate the sea, and a procession still takes place each June 24 in honour of the saint. Note the central ﬁgures of the saint and the Madonna by Sansovino. Just past the chapel, the Museo del Tesoro (Mon–Sat 9am–noon & 3–6pm; €4.50, €6 including Museo Diocesano), housed in an atmospheric crypt, holds a polished quartz plate on which, legend says, Salome received John the Baptist’s severed head, and a glass vessel said to have been given to Solomon by the Queen of Sheba and used at the Last Supper. There is also a British artillery shell that was ﬁred from the sea during World War II and fell through the roof, but miraculously failed to explode. Take a look also at the Museo Diocesano (Tues–Sat 10am–1pm & 3–7pm, Sun 3–7pm; €2), behind the cathedral at Via Tommaso Reggio 20, which occupies a cloister and the medieval buildings around and displays more religious art and sculpture. North of Via San Lorenzo

The busiest and more obviously appealing part of old Genoa lies to the north of Via San Lorenzo. Just off the cathedral’s square, tiny Piazza Invrea gives on to the shopping square of the Campetto and adjacent Via degli Oreﬁci, “Street of the Goldsmiths”. Much of the jewellery here is still made by hand at upper-ﬂoor workshops around the Campetto, which links to the genteel sliver of Piazza Soziglia, crowded with stalls and café tables. From here Via Luccoli heads north, with glitzy boutiques and design outlets galore, while a few streets to the east is

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the city’s prettiest small square, Piazza San Matteo. This lay in the territory of the Doria family, who went one step further than merely striping the twelfthcentury church of San Matteo (Mon–Sat 7.30am–noon & 4–5.30pm) and ordered elaborate testimonials to the family’s worthiness to be carved on the facade of the church and their adjoining palaces; inside, the tomb of the patriarch and sea captain Andrew Doria lies in the crypt. Via degli Oreﬁci leads down to a thriving commercial area centred on Piazza Banchi, a small enclosed square of secondhand books, records, fruit and ﬂowers which was once the heart of the medieval city. Up the steps to the left, the little church of San Pietro in Banchi was built in the sixteenth century after a plague; with little money to spare, the city authorities sold plots of commercial space in arcades underneath the church in order to fund construction of the main building. From Piazza Banchi, the animated Via San Luca heads north, lined with shops selling counterfeit designer clothes and accessories. The street was in Spinola family territory, and their grand, former residence is now the excellent Galleria Nazionale di Palazzo Spinola, beside Piazza Pelliceria (Tues–Sat 8.30am–7.30pm, Sun 1.30–7.30pm; €4, joint ticket with Palazzo Reale €6.50), whose ﬁrst two ﬂoors are perhaps Genoa’s best example of a grand family palace, with original furniture and rooms crammed with high-quality paintings. There are Van Dyck portraits of Matthew, Mark, Luke and John as men of books, a portrait of Paolo Spinola by the Rome-based German painter Angelika Kaufmann, and upstairs an intensely mournful Ecce Homo by the Sicilian master Antonello da Messina and the splendid Adoration of the Magi by Joos van Cleve, sawn into planks when stolen from the church of San Donato in the 1970s. Don’t miss the little terrace, way up on the spine of the roof and shaded with orange and lemon trees. North of here the old town is quieter and a fair bit seedier, centred on busy Via della Maddalena, which skirts the city’s thriving red-light trade. Steep lanes rise north of Via della Maddalena, lifting you out of the melee and into the ordered calm of Via Garibaldi (see opposite). South of Via San Lorenzo

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The section of the Old Town south of Via San Lorenzo is less visited than the districts to the north, and more residential. Many of Genoa’s students and young professionals live in the upper ﬂoors of the old buildings lining Via dei Giustiniani and Via San Bernardo, generating a lively bar culture in the surrounding alleys. From the cathedral and Piazza Matteotti, narrow Salita Pollaiuoli plunges you into the gloom between high buildings down to a crossroads with Via San Bernardo, one of Genoa’s most vibrant Old Town streets, with grocers and bakers trading behind the portals of palaces decorated in the ﬁfteenth and sixteenth centuries. On the south side of the crossroads tiny Piazza San Donato is overlooked by San Donato, a crumbling, bare Romanesque church with a Roman architrave surviving over its door and an octagonal Byzantine-style campanile, while beyond, Stradone Sant’Agostino was laid out in the eighteenth century and is now home to a quirky array of bars and workshops. At the top, the long, narrow bulge of Piazza Sarzano was originally home to Genoa’s many ropemaking workshops and, owing to its enormous length, is still the scene for medieval-style jousting tournaments. To the left is the (rebuilt) thirteenth-century church of Sant’Agostino, whose unique triangular cloister houses the Museo di Sant’Agostino (Tues–Fri 9am–7pm, Sat & Sun 10am–7pm; €4), which displays fragments of sculpture through Genoa’s long history. The highlight is a fragment of the tomb of Margherita of Brabant, sculpted in 1312 by Giovanni Pisano. Beyond, Via Ravecca leads up to the Porta Soprana, a twin-towered stone gateway featuring impressive Gothic arches, that now stands as the focus for a rather upmarket collection of bars and terrace cafés.

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Three of the street’s ﬁnest palazzi – Bianco, Rosso and Tursi – have been re-branded the Musei di Strada Nuova and together they hold the city’s ﬁnest collection of old-master paintings (Tues–Fri 9am–7pm, Sat & Sun 10am–7pm; €8 combined ticket, available from Palazzo Tursi). The ﬁrst of these, the Palazzo Bianco, was built between 1530 and 1540 for the important Genoese family, the Grimaldis. Its gallery houses the largest collection of Genoese and Ligurian painting – including work by Cambiaso, Piola, Castiglione and Castello – alongside works by Flemish and Dutch masters such as Gerard David and Hans Memling. The Palazzo Bianco provides access to the next-door Palazzo Tursi, the largest of Genoa’s palaces, with an imposing main courtyard. It’s the site of the town hall and as such much of it is closed to the public, but you can see more paintings, ceramics and furniture, and look in on the Sala Paganiniana, on the ﬁrst ﬂoor – a couple of rooms dedicated to the great Italian violinist Niccolò Paganini, who was born in Genoa in 1782. The prime exhibits are his two violins – the cannone, the great man’s Guarneri violin made in 1743, along with a copy of it made in Paris in 1834, which he is actually said to have preferred. Across the road at no. 18, the Palazzo Rosso has a splendid ﬁrst-ﬂoor picture gallery, with paintings by mainly ﬁfteenth- and sixteenth-century Italian artists – Andrea del Sarto, Mattia Preti, Guercino and a whole room of works by local Bernardo Strozzi – along with a choice few northern-European works by the likes of Roger van der Weyden, Dürer and Gerard David. The rooms on the ﬂoor above have been restored to their original Baroque grandeur, bedecked with chandeliers, mirrors, frescoed ceilings and an excess of gilding, and there’s a series of splendid portraits by Van Dyck of the Brignole-Sale family, who built the palace in 1671. On the ﬂoor above this is a mock-up of the reﬁned twentieth-century apartment of the former director of Genoa’s museums, an odd mixture of classic and modern furniture and old masters, and above this a rooftop terrace that offers fantastic views of the city centre.

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When newly made fortunes encouraged Genoa’s merchant bankers to move out of the cramped Old Town in the mid-sixteenth century, artisans’ houses were pulled down to make way for the Strada Nuova, later named Via Garibaldi. To walk along the surprisingly narrow street is to stroll through a Renaissance architect’s drawing pad – sculpted facades, stuccowork and medallions decorate the exterior of the three-storey palazzi, while some of the large courtyards are almost like private squares.

Stazione Principe and around

The grandiose Stazione Principe lies on Piazza Acquaverde, below which Via Andrea Doria winds down to the port and ferry terminal, and the lavish gardens of the huge Palazzo del Principe Doria Pamphilj (May–July & Sept–Dec 25 Tues–Sun 10am–5pm; €7), built in the early 1530s by Andrea Doria, who made his reputation and fortune attacking Turkish ﬂeets and Barbary pirates and liberating the Genoese republic from the French and Spanish. The Palazzo Reale

From the station, Via Balbi leads east to the old part of Genoa. The vast Palazzo Reale at Via Balbi 10 (Tues & Wed 9am–1.30pm, Thurs–Sun 9am–7pm; €4, joint ticket with Palazzo Spinola €6.50) was built by the Balbi family in the early seventeenth century and later occupied by the Durazzo dynasty and the Savoyard

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royals. There’s a huge atrium overlooking an elegant courtyard garden, and you can climb the grand staircase to the ballroom, with gilt stucco ceilings and Chinese vases. To the left are four drawing rooms, featuring a huge watercolour of the crossing of the Red Sea painted on silk, and a stunning hall of mirrors, where Joseph II, Emperor of Austria, is said to have remarked in 1784 that the palace appeared more of a royal residence than his own simple pad back in Vienna. Doors lead through to the private quarters of the Duke of Genoa, with the duke’s bedchamber featuring a sumptuous Baroque ceiling fresco and the bathroom holding elegant furniture carved in England in the 1820s. The east wing holds the royal quarters: a chapel gallery behind the ballroom, covered in trompe-l’oeil frescoes by Lorenzo de Ferrari; the adjacent throne room, dotted with dozens of “C.A.” monograms in honour of Carlo Alberto, King of Savoy, and a lavish audience room with a grand portrait of a tightlipped Caterina Durazzo-Balbi painted by Van Dyck in 1624 during his six-year stay in Genoa. Alongside, the king’s bedchamber has Van Dyck’s ﬁrst canvas of the Cruciﬁxion, also dating from 1624, and the queen’s quarters feature a ghostly pale Cruciﬁxion by the Neapolitan master Luca Giordano and a St Lawrence by Bernardo Strozzi. Don’t miss also the grand terrace which gives airy views over the port. Museo delle Culture del Mondo and Museo del Risorgimento

North of the station, and best reached via the lift from Via Balbi, the Museo delle Culture del Mondo (April–Sept Tues–Fri 10am–6pm, Sat & Sun 10am–7pm; Oct–March Tues–Fri 10am–5pm, Sat & Sun 10am–6pm; €6) is housed in the grand neo-Gothic home of the nineteenth-century adventurer Captain D’Albertis, who spent much of his later life ﬁlling its rooms with masks, musical instruments, pottery, paintings, stuffed animals and more picked up during voyages to the Americas, Africa and Oceania. A few minutes’ walk from the Palazzo Reale is Via Lomellini 11, where one of the most inﬂuential activists of Italian Uniﬁcation, Giuseppe Mazzini, was born in 1805. The house is now the Museo del Risorgimento (Tues–Fri 9am–7pm, Sat 10am–7pm; €4), which displays documents and relics from his life. The old port

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It’s a short stroll from Piazza Banchi out into the open spaces of Genoa’s old port or Porto Antico – more integrated now with the city than it has perhaps ever been, and also totally revitalized over the past two decades, its old warehouses converted into exhibition spaces, concert halls, museums and waterfront cafés and restaurants. The sea once came up to the vaulted arcades of Via Sottoripa, which runs alongside the large pedestrianized space of Piazza Caricamento, above which the sopraelevata, or elevated highway, shoots along the waterfront above. The Palazzo di San Giorgio here is a brightly painted fortiﬁed palace built in 1260 from the stones of a captured Venetian fortress. After the great sea-battle of Curzola in 1298, the Genoese used the building to keep their Venetian prisoners under lock and key; among them was one Marco Polo, who met a Pisan writer named Rustichello inside and spun tales of adventure to him of worlds beyond the seas. After their release, Rustichello published the stories in a single volume that became The Travels of Marco Polo. These days, the building is home to the harbour authorities, but you can ask the guardian on the door to let you in to see the medieval Sala dei Protettori and beautiful Sala Manica Lunga, whose decor was restored to its thirteenth-century grandeur following bomb damage in World War II.

The Bigo and Molo Vecchio

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Beyond the Palazzo di San Giorgio, the visual centrepiece of the resurgent waterfront is the Bigo – a curious multi-armed contraption, designed by Renzo Piano, intended to recall the harbourside cranes of old. It consists of a tent-roofed exhibition/concert space where waterside performances are given in summer and an ice-skating rink is set up in winter, next to which stands a circular elevator that ascends 60m in the air to let visitors see Genoa “as it is seen by the seagulls” (March, April, Sept & Oct Mon 2–6pm, Tues–Sun 10am–6pm; June–Aug Mon 4–11pm, Tues–Sun 10am–11pm; Jan, Feb, Nov & Dec Sat & Sun 10am–5pm; €4, children €3). Just southwest of here is the old Porta Siberia, with the Molo Vecchio (Old Wharf ) beyond, and a set of restored cotton warehouses that now house a shoppingcum-entertainment centre, the Magazzini del Cotone, with bars, cinemas and music stores. Its main attraction is the Città dei Bambini e dei Ragazzi (Tues–Sun: July–Sept 11.30am–7.30pm; Oct–June 10am–6pm; €5, children €7), a whiz-bang interactive children’s science museum ﬁlled with gizmos and gadgets that proves popular with its target audience. The museum is divided into separate areas: for 2- to 3-year-olds, 3- to 5-year-olds and 6- to 14-year-olds. Past the centre, you can enjoy grand, sweeping views of the port from the end of the wharf. The Acquario di Genova and around

North of the Bigo, the Acquario di Genova (March–June, Sept & Oct Mon–Fri 9am–7.30pm, Sat & Sun 8.45am–8.30pm; July & Aug daily 8.30am–10pm; Nov–Feb Mon–Fri 9.30am–7.30pm, Sat & Sun 9.30am–8.30pm; last entry 1hr 30min before closing; €18, children €12) is the city’s pride and joy, Europe’s largest aquarium, with seventy tanks housing sea creatures from all the world’s major habitats, including the world’s biggest reconstruction of a Caribbean coral reef, complete with moray eels, turtles and angelﬁsh, and lots of larger beasts too – sharks, dolphins, seals, an enclosure of penguins, and the usual rays in their petting pools. It’s a great aquarium by any standards, and boasts a fashionably ecologyconscious slant and excellent background information in Italian and English. Alongside the aquarium there’s the futuristic-looking Biosfera, a steel-and-glass Renzo Piano-designed sphere housing a small tropical ecosystem, complete with trees, ﬂowers and insects (daily 10am–5pm; €5), and, moored at the next pier, Il Galeone Neptune (daily 10am–6pm; €5), a kitschy full-size replica of a seventeenthcentury galleon with a huge, colourful Neptune ﬁgurehead, and several decks to explore. A couple of minutes’ walk further north, a giant glass building holds the wonderful Galata Museo del Mare (March–Oct daily 10am–7.30pm; Nov–Feb 10am–6pm, last entry 5pm; €11, children €6), one of the best museums in the city, detailing on three ﬂoors the history of Genoa and its relationship with the sea, following its evolution from the late medieval period to nineteenth-century immigration to the United States, illustrated with plenty of nautical paraphernalia and several full-size ships.

Tickets for the port attractions There are lots of tickets that combine the Aquarium with the other museums of the Porto Antico, available in various combinations – such as the Città dei Bambini and Aquarium for €20 (children €16), or Aquarium and Biosfera for €22 (children €14). You can also buy an Acquario Village ticket, valid for a year, that covers the Aquarium, Città dei Bambini, Biosfera, Bigo and Galata Museo del Mare – and gives discounts at shops and attractions, plus free rides on the mini-train that tours the port – for €35 (children €25).

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The Stazione Maríttima and around

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Beyond the redeveloped part of the port lies the ﬁn-de-siècle Stazione Maríttima, the ferry terminal for services to Corsica, Sardinia, Sicily, and Tunisia (see p.114). Just in front, the Ponte dei Mille ( Jetty of the Thousand) is so called for Giuseppe Garibaldi, ex-mercenary and spaghetti salesman, who persuaded his thousand Red Shirts to set off for Sicily in two clapped-out paddle steamers, armed with just a few riﬂes and no ammunition. Their mission, to support a Sicilian uprising and unite the island with the mainland states, greatly annoyed some northern politicians, who didn’t want anything to do with the undeveloped south. There’s a promenade walk you can follow further round the port from here (daily 8am–sunset) to Genoa’s sixteenthcentury lighthouse, the Lanterna (Sat & Sun 10am–7pm), which has been restored as a museum. You can climb the 172 steps to the ﬁrst terrace, and compare the building with the nearby Matitone, a postmodern polygonal tower housing municipal offices whose pointed roof has given it its sardonic nickname “The Big Pencil”. Modern Genoa

In the nineteenth century, Genoa began to expand beyond its old-town constraints. The newer districts begin with the large central Piazza de Ferrari, from where Via XX Settembre runs a straight course east through the commercial centre of the city towards Stazione Brignole. This grand boulevard features big department stores, clothes shops and pavement cafés beneath its arcades, and there are prized delicatessens in the side streets around Stazione Brignole and Piazza Colombo, and a bustling covered Mercato Orientale partway along, in the cloisters of an old Augustinian monastery. At the eastern end of Via XX Settembre, the park outside the Stazione Brignole extends south into Piazza della Vittoria, a huge and dazzling white square built during the Fascist period that now serves as the long-distance bus station. Walking north from Piazza de Ferrari takes you up to Piazza Corvetto – built by the Austrians in the nineteenth century and now a major conﬂuence of traffic and people. Across the other side of the square, a thoughtful-looking statue of Giuseppe Mazzini marks the entrance to the Villetta di Negro, a lushly landscaped park whose artiﬁcial waterfalls and grottoes scale the hill. At the top, the Museo d’Arte Orientale Edoardo Chiossone (Tues–Fri 9am–1pm, Sat & Sun 10am–7pm; €4) holds a collection of oriental art that includes eighteenthcentury sculpture and paintings and samurai armour. Chiossone was a printer and engraver for the Italian mint, and, on the strength of his banknote-engraving skills, he was invited by the Meiji dynasty to establish the Japanese Imperial Mint. He lived in Japan from 1875 until his death in Tokyo in 1898, building up a fascinating and extensive collection. The funiculars

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If you’re not satisﬁed with the view from the Villetta di Negro, you can take the Art Nouveau-style public lift from Piazza del Portello up to the Castelletto, which offers a great panorama over the port and the roofs of the Old Town; a funicular also leaves from the same place up to the residential Sant’Anna district, although the views from here aren’t as good (ordinary bus tickets are valid for both). When Genoa ran out of building space, plots for houses were hewn out of the hillside behind, like the steps of an amphitheatre, and the funicular enables you to see these at close quarters, as the carriages edge past people’s front windows. Another funicular runs from Largo Zecca, further west, to the suburb of Righi, where you can admire vistas of the city below and wander off on any of a number of paths, although locals generally come here to sit in the various panoramic restaurants for extended sessions of family dining.

Eating and drinking

Bars and cafés

Restaurants Da Rina Mura delle Grazie 3/R T010.246.6475. Da Rina has been going for sixty years, serving simple, high-quality Genoese cooking in unpretentious surroundings down near the waterfront. Lots of ﬁsh and classic Ligurian dishes such as cima alla genovese. Moderately priced. Closed Mon & Aug. I Tre Merli Via Dietro il Coro della Maddalena 26/R T 010.247.4095. Despite its location in the heart of the red-light district, this is one of the city’s very best restaurants, employing an innovative approach to Ligurian

cuisine. There are over 300 wines on the menu, stored in a converted fourteenth-century well. Closed Sat lunch & Sun. Branches in Camogli and down on the seafront (I Tre Merli al Porto Antico; T010.246.4416). La Berlocca Via del Macelli di Soziglia 45/R T010.247.4162. Opposite a magic shop in a narrow Old Town alleyway, this is a cosy bistrostyle establishment with an open ﬁre in winter and a menu featuring adventurous takes on traditional Ligurian dishes, such as chestnut-ﬂour pasta with pesto. Closed Mon. Le Cantine Squarciaﬁco Piazza Invrea 3/R T010.247.0823. Atmospheric cantina in the wine cellar of a ﬁfteenth-century mansion just off Piazza San Lorenzo. Innovative, carefully prepared food and a great wine list complement each other perfectly, though it is on the expensive side. Closed second half of Aug. Maxela Vico Inferiore del Ferro 9 T010.247.4209. There’s been a restaurant in this building since 1790. The latest, Maxela, is part of a small chain, and specializes in meat dishes, with big steaks, odd bun-less burgers and various offal dishes, served under a stripped-down old vaulting. There are a few pasta dishes on the menu too. Moderately priced, with mains around €12–18. Closed Sun. Östaja dö Castello Salita Santa Maria di Castello 32/R T010.246.8980. This is a great Old Town, family-run trattoria serving good, inexpensive ﬁsh and seafood specialities, such as octopus with potatoes and grilled prawns. Pasta dishes €9–12, mains €10–12. Closed Sun. Pansön Piazza delle Erbe 5/R T 010.246.8903. Venerable Genoese institution, in the same family since 1790, with an attractive location on a tucked-away piazza. Choose from a mainly ﬁshy menu, priced high to keep the riff-raff away. Highly recommended. Closed Sun dinner. Taggiou Via Superiore del Ferroi 8 T010.275.9225. More of a wine bar than a restaurant, but very popular, drawing crowds at lunch and dinner for its great choice of Italian wine and plates of cold cuts and cheese. It serves cima alla Genovese and also does hot food – pasta al pesto and the like. A good Old Town choice. Open every day.

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Bar Berto Piazza delle Erbe 6/R. Narrow little stand-up café-bar founded in 1904 by Signor Berto who walked some 15km west to the ceramics centre of Albisola in order to collect colourful bits of broken tile to decorate the walls. There’s lots of seating outside on the pedestrianized square. A trendy spot for coffee, beer or a reasonably priced light meal. Mon–Sat 8am–9pm. Bar Pasticceria Mangini Via Roma at Piazza Corvetto. One of Genoa’s most venerable pasticcerie, in business since the early 1800s and still top-notch today. Daily until 7.30pm. Caffè degli Specchi Salita Pollaiuoli 43/R. This has been a prime spot since 1917 for Genoese artists, writers and intellectuals to take coffee while admiring themselves in the mirrors (specchi) that cover the magniﬁcent tiled interior. It also offers a small selection of panini, focaccia and hot dishes. Closed Sun. Caffetteria Oreﬁci Via degli Oreﬁci 25/R. A tiny, fragrant temple to the art of coffee-making, with a range of specialist coffees and perfect results every time. Standing-room only. Closed Sun. Fratelli Klainguti Piazza Soziglia 98/R. An Austrian-style café dating from 1828, with cakes, coffee and ice cream under chandeliers and tables on the square outside. A good spot for lunch – it serves sandwiches, pasta dishes and salads – and breakfast: they still produce the hazelnut croissant known as a Falstaff, much esteemed by Giuseppe Verdi, who spent forty winters in Genoa (“Thanks for the Falstaff, much better than mine,” he wrote to the bakers).

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Genoa has everything from basic trattorias to elegant nineteenth-century cafés. Piazza Caricamento is one of the best places for street food, its arcades lined with cafés serving focaccia, panini and deep-fried seafood, while there are lots of places in the Old Town selling foccaccia and farinata (see box, p.102) – try Antica Sciamadda at Via Ravecca 19/R (closed Mon) or Paniﬁcio Patrone, Via Ravecca 72/R (closed Wed afternoon), one of Genoa’s top bakeries.

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Ugo Via Giustiniani 86/R T 010.246.9302. Convivial, reasonably-priced trattoria in the heart of the student quarter near San Donato, with a boisterous, friendly group of regulars who pack in

at shared tables to wolf down the Genoese and Ligurian dishes – heavy on pesto and seafood. Simple pricing – primi are €10, secondi €12. Closed Sun & Mon.

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Boat trips Consorzio Liguria Viamare (T 010.255.975, W www.whalewatchliguria.it) run regular summer whale-watching trips from Genoa and several other major towns along the coast. The same company operates 45-minute boat trips around Genoa’s port, departing from the Aquarium (every 30min, daily 9am–5pm; €6), and run summer excursions west and east along the Riviera (prices vary). Routes along the eastern coast are also operated by Golfo Paradiso (T 0185.772.091, W www.golfoparadiso.it), whose boats depart from Calata Mandraccio, just south of the Bigo. Bookshops Feltrinelli, Via Ceccardi 16, has some English-language paperbacks. Car rental Europcar, at the airport T 010.650.4881; Hertz, Via E. Ruspoli 78 T 010.570.2625, airport T 010.651.2422; Maggiore, Corso Sardegna 275 T010.839.2153, airport T 010.651.2467; Sixt, Via E. Ferri 30 T 010.651.2716, airport T 010.651.2111. Consulate US, Via Dante 2 T010.584.492. Doctor Call T 010.354.022 for a doctor on call (nights and hols). Ferries Any of the shipping agencies under the arcades along Piazza Caricamento can give current details of the long-distance ferries departing regularly to Bastia (Corsica), Olbia or Porto Torres (both Sardinia), Palermo (Sicily) and further aﬁeld to Tunisia and Spain. See p.138 for frequencies.

Football Genoa has two top-ﬂight teams, Sampdoria and Genoa, the latter founded in 1893 as the Genoa Cricket and Athletic Club, originally for British expats only. Both teams play at the 36,000-capacity Luigi Ferraris stadium, behind Stazione Brignole. Bus #12 from Piazza Caricamento, and bus #37 from Stazione Principe pass near the stadium, or you can walk it in 15–20min from Brignole. Hospitals Ospedale Galliera, Mura delle Cappuccine 14 (T010.56.321), is the city’s most central hospital, situated just south of Piazza Vittoria, while Ospedale Evangelico, Corso Solferino 1/A (T010.55.221), is English-speaking. In an emergency, call T 118. Internet access Nondove, Corso Buenos Aires 2 (€4/hr), near Stazione Brignole. Pharmacies Ponte Monumentale, Via XX Settembre 115/R (T 010.564.430), and Farmacia Pescetto, Via Balbi 185/R (T 010.251.8777), are both open 24hr. Police Carabinieri T112; Polizia T113; coastguard police T010.27.771. Genoa’s police HQ is at Via Armando Diaz 2 (T010.53.661). Post ofﬁce Via Dante 4B/R (Mon–Fri 8am–6.30pm, Sat 8am–1.30pm; two desks with English-speaking staff). Sub-post ofﬁces are at both train stations, open same hours. Taxis Taxi Genova T010.5966. Train information T06.3000.

Narrow-gauge trains to Casella

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There’s no better way to get into inland Liguria than by taking the narrow-gauge trains which leave roughly every 90 minutes from Genoa’s Piazza Manin (reachable by bus #34 from Stazione Principe). They start off climbing through the Val Bisagno and coil northwards up to Casella, in a wooded dell at the foot of Monte Maggio, just over an hour from Genoa. Return fares to Casella are €2 (T 010.837.321, W www .ferroviagenovacasella.it). Casella is the trailhead for a number of hiking routes in the picturesque Valle Scrivia (W www.altavallescrivia.it). The town has a couple of hotels, of which the Magenta at Piazza XXV Aprile 20 is the better bet if you’re here in summer (T010.967.7113; June–Sept; 2 ); and there are half-a-dozen restaurants, including Camugin (T 010.967.0939; closed Mon) in front of the church, known for its fresh ﬁsh, and Chiara (T010.967.7040; closed Mon & Tues eve), with a wood-ﬁred pizza oven.

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Some 30km along the coast from Genoa, SAVONA is the Ligurian coast at its most functional, a port city that was substantially rebuilt after a hammering in World War II. However, its ugly outskirts hide a picturesque medieval centre, and although you’re unlikely to want to stay the night, it is worth a look, especially when it’s taken over on summer Saturdays by a huge antiques and bric-a-brac market. The town’s main claim to fame is as the “Città dei Papi” (City of Popes), after local boy Francesco Della Rovere, who became Pope Sixtus IV in 1471, and his nephew Giuliano, who became Pope Julius II in 1503. Both men left a huge legacy, not least in the Vatican’s Sistine Chapel, which Sixtus IV built and Julius II famously commissioned Michelangelo to decorate. The train station is in the west of town, across the River Letimbro from the old quarter, which nestles in the curve of the old port and bristles with medieval towers. Via Don Minzoni, to the left of the station as you walk out, heads east across the river to where the main Via Paleocapa, lined with Art Nouveau arcades, continues east to the port. Savona’s tourist office is at Via Paleocapa 76 (summer Mon–Sat 9am–12.30pm & 3.30–7.30pm; winter Tues–Sat 9am–12.30pm & 3–7.30pm; T 019.840.2321, W www.turismo.provincia.savona .it). South of here, the atmospheric old quarter is dominated by the Duomo and its attached Cappella Sistina, a Baroque extravaganza commissioned by Sixtus IV in memory of his parents. Above the old town stands the huge Fortezza di Priamàr, built in 1528 by the Genoese as a sign of their superiority over the defeated Savonese, and these days it’s the city’s major sight, housing three museums: the Museo d’Arte Sandro Pertini (Mon 9.30am–12.30pm; €2.50), displaying modern Italian art collected by the one-time president of Italy; the Museo Renata Cúneo, with contemporary sculpture by Cúneo, a Savona local (closed for restoration at the time of research); and – best of the bunch – the Museo Storico Archeologico (summer Tues–Sat 10am–noon & 3–5pm, Sun 3–5pm; winter Tues–Fri 9.30am–12.30pm & 3–5pm, Sat 10am–noon & 3–5pm; €2.50), which has Greek and Etruscan bits and bobs along with some Islamic and Byzantine ceramics.

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Savona

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The coast west of Genoa, the Riviera di Ponente, is Liguria’s most built-up stretch, home to practical, unpretentious resorts, functional towns and the occasional attractive medieval quarter. In some ways it’s the ideal location for the perfect family holiday – the beaches are sandy and the prices low – and thousands of Italians come here every year for just that. Almost every settlement along the stretch of coast from Genoa to San Remo is a resort of some kind, and extremely busy during July and especially August, when prices are at their highest. But there are some gems among the run-of-the-mill holiday towns, not least the likeable resort of Finale Ligure, nearby Noli, with its alley-laden old centre, the medieval centre of Albenga and the grand old resort of San Remo, which can also make a good base for exploring sections of the Alta Via dei Monti Liguri (see box, p.120).

Noli Ten kilometres south of Savona, NOLI is the most attractive resort on this stretch of the coast, set in a shallow bay and topped by a castle whose battlements march down the hill to meet its enticing walled old quarter of small squares

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and alleys. There’s a crescent of part-pebble, part-sand beach, and just off the seafront you may want to peek in at the church of San Paragorio (Tues, Thurs & Sun 10am–noon & 6–8pm, Fri & Sat 6.30–10.30pm; €2), an ancient-looking Romanesque church that holds a beautiful vaulted crypt, some ﬁfteenth-century frescoes and a thirteenth-century bishop’s throne. The tourist office is on the seafront nearby at Corso Italia 8 (Sun–Thurs 9am–12.30pm & 3.30–7.30pm, Fri & Sat 9am–12.30pm & 3.30–9.30pm; T 019.749.9003), not far from the Miramare hotel at Corso Italia 3 (T 019.748.926, W www.hotelmiramarenoli .it; 3 ), which has decent rooms within a stone’s throw of the sea; two minutes away, the smaller and slightly cheaper Triestina, in the old town itself at Via A. da Noli 16 (T 019.748.024; 3 ), is very welcoming, with simple, air-conditioned rooms and a pleasant garden out front. The Miramare’s restaurant, La Barcaccia, serves great seafood pasta and excellent pizzas in its garden.

Finale Ligure FINALE LIGURE, half an hour from Savona, is a full-on Italian resort, in summer crowded with Italian families who pack the outdoor restaurants, seafront fairground and open-air cinema, or take an extended passeggiata along the promenade and through the old alleys. It’s a thoroughly enjoyable place for all that, with a long sandy beach that stretches the entire length of the town and a busy, buzzy vibe that lasts long into the evening. Arrival, information and accommodation

The train station is at the western end of Finalmarina, the main part of town. The tourist office is on the seafront boulevard at Via San Pietro 14 (Sun–Thurs 9am–12.30pm & 3.30–7.30pm, Fri & Sat 9am–12.30pm & 3.30–9.30pm; T 019.681.019). There’s no shortage of hotels in town, as well as an excellent hostel and two convenient campsites. Hotels

Hostel and campsites

Giardino Via Pertico 49 T019.692.815, E giardinoﬁ@libero.it. This seafront hotel is a good budget choice considering its central location, with a wide choice of rooms, some of which have shared bathrooms. 2 Medusa Vico Bricchieri 7 T019.692.545, W www.hotelmedusa.it. A good option if you want slightly more comfort and to be right on the beach, with a friendly welcome and recently renovated rooms – though the best ones with sea views are of course more expensive. 3 –4 Villa Gina Via Brunenghi 6 T 019.691.297, W www.villagina.it. Just two minutes from the station, Villa Gina has well-kept rooms with a/c and comfy public areas downstairs, looked after by a nice elderly lady. 2

Camping del Mulino Via Castello, Finalpia T 019.601.669, W www.campingmulino.it. Ten minutes’ walk up winding Via Castello, with great views and well-priced bungalows for rent too. Castello Vuillermin Via Caviglia 46 T 019.690.515, E ﬁnaleligurehostel @libero.it This HI hostel occupies an old castle high above the train station and has marvellous views out to sea. Mid-March to mid-Oct. Dorm beds €13. Eurocamping Via Calvisio 37, Finalpia T019.601.240, Wwww.eurocampingcalvisio.it. This well-run riverside site about 1500m inland is open April–Sept.

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The main part of town is Finalmarina, with a promenade lined with palms, and a small quarter of narrow shopping streets set back from the seafront, focused on the arcaded Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II in the middle. At the eastern end of town, Finalpia is a small district on the other side of the River Sciusa, with the twelfth-century church of Santa Maria di Pia (rebuilt in ﬂorid

There are lots of options for eating out, but the best ones need some hunting out. For picnic supplies, Chiesa, on the main street at Via Pertica 13, is a mouthwatering salumeria that has its own restaurant around the corner (see below). Ai Torchi Via dell’Annunziata 12 T 019.690.531. This reﬁned restaurant occupies an ancient olive-oil factory in Finalborgo and serves expensive pasta and ﬁsh dishes with care and some style. Closed Tues except in Aug. Chiesa Vico Gandolino 12 T 018.692.516. A small, canteen-like place open lunchtime only and with a different menu every day – good food, and cheap at €5 for a primo and €7–9 for a main. Closed Sun. La Vecchia Maniera Via Roma 25 T019.692.562. A central and unpretentious place to eat local ﬁsh and seafood, but it’s popular – book in advance if you can, especially if you want to sit outside. Closed Tues–Thurs Oct–June.

Osteria La Briga Via Manie 2 T019.698.579. You can ﬁll up on ortica (nettle) and black trufﬂe lasagne at this excellent mid-priced restaurant up in the hills. Dinner only Sat, Sun, July & Aug. Patrick Via Roma 45 T019.968.0007. Good seafood pasta dishes and other local specialities. More expensive than La Vecchia Maniera, but its outside terrace is a lovely place to watch the world go by while you eat. Sotto il Santo Piazza Garibaldi 6 T 019.680.087. Up in Finalborgo, you can eat excellent pasta all ways and sit out on the main square. Closed Tues.

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Eating and drinking

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early eighteenth-century style) and the adjacent sixteenth-century cloistered abbey at its centre, while Finalborgo, perhaps the most attractive part of Finale, is a medieval walled quarter 2km inland, overlooked by bare rock-faces that are a favourite with free climbers who gather at Bar Centrale in Finalborgo’s Piazza Garibaldi at weekends. Finalborgo has quite a chi-chi air these days, and is a nice place to eat and shop – there are free buses from Finalpia (opposite the Hotel Boncardo) and the bottom of Via Brunenghi (near the station) every forty minutes in summer. Once there you can just wander its old streets, or take a look at the array of prehistoric remains and other artefacts unearthed locally at the Museo Archeologico di Finale in the cloisters of the convent of Santa Caterina (Tues–Sun: July & Aug 10am–noon & 4–7pm; Sept–June 9am–noon & 2.30–5pm; €4).

Albenga The small market town of ALBENGA is one of the most attractive places along this part of the coast, an ex-port whose estuary silted up long ago but left a wanderable old quarter, still within medieval walls and following the grid-pattern of its ancient Roman predecessor, Albingaunum. Arrival, information and accommodation

Albenga’s train station is 800m east of the old town; turn left outside the station and cross the road to follow Viale Martiri della Libertà to the modern centre’s Piazza del Popolo. In the centre of the square is the tourist office (Mon–Sat 9am–12.30pm & 4–7.30pm, Sun 9am–12.30pm; T 0182.558.444). To stay, the Sole Mare, down on the seafront at Lungomare Colombo 15 (T 0182.51.817, W www.albergosolemare.it; 2 ), has 14 cosy rooms, about half of which have sea views. Otherwise, a ten-minute walk from the old town, up in the hills at Regione Miranda 25, Villa Maria (T 0182.559.091, W www.villamaria-bb.it; 2 ) is a ﬁne, family-run B&B with gracious rooms (though bathrooms are not en suite), gorgeous grounds, a great pool and a couple of bikes for guests. There are lots of campsites nearby: try Europamare on the other side of the river at Via Michelangelo 7 (T 0182.540.824).

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The Town

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The centre of town is Piazza San Michele, where you’ll ﬁnd the elegant cathedral, the main part of which was built in the eleventh century and enlarged in the early fourteenth, and, just beyond, in the Torre Comunale, the Museo Civico Ingauno (Tues–Sun 9.30am–12.30pm & 3.30–7.30pm; €3.50) – home to an array of Roman masonry and fragments, including a patch of original mosaic ﬂoor, and, off to the right, the ﬁfth-century baptistry. This ingenious building was built in the ﬁfth century, and combines a ten-sided exterior with an octagonal interior. Inside are fragmentary mosaics showing the Apostles represented by twelve doves. Behind the baptistry to the north, the archbishop’s palace houses the diverting Museo Diocesano, Via Episcopio 5 (Tues–Thurs 10am–noon & 3–5pm, Fri & Sat 10am–12.30pm & 2.30–5pm; €3), where there are paintings by Lanfranco and Guido Reni. The archbishop’s partially frescoed bedchamber, next door to his private chapel, is also decorated with ﬁfteenth-century frescoes. A few metres from here, at the junction of Via Medaglie d’Oro and Via Ricci, the thirteenth-century Loggia dei Quattro Canti marks the centre of the Roman town, while some 500m further north, beyond Piazza Garibaldi and along Viale Pontelungo, is the elegant, arcaded Pontelungo bridge. Built in the twelfth century to cross the river, which shifted course soon afterwards, it now makes an odd sight. In the opposite direction, ﬁve minutes’ walk beyond the train station, lies Albenga’s seafront and beaches – mostly sandy and with a couple of reasonable free sections. Eating and drinking

There are two good restaurants opposite each other on Via Torlaro, off Via Medaglie d’Oro: Da Puppo at no. 20 (T 0182.98.062) is a basic canteen-like trattoria with a great menu of cheap grilled staples – swordﬁsh, prawns and even Argentinian steaks – while Vecchio Mulino, at no. 13 (T 0182.543.111), has pizzas cooked in a wood-ﬁred oven at lunch and dinner, as well as lots of other good local dishes. Another reliable option for lunch is San Teodoro, in a quiet location with outside seating at Piazza d’Erbe 1 (T 0182.555.990), serving salads and cold cuts and a short menu of pasta dishes and secondi, including a decent pasta with pesto, beans and potatoes.

The caves of Toirano

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The resort of Borghetto Santo Spirito is the transfer point for buses to the spectacular caves just outside the village of Toirano a few kilometres inland. The caves (daily: July & Aug 9.30am–12.30pm & 2–5.30pm; Sept–June 9.30am–12.30pm & 2–5pm; €10; tours last 1hr) are up a track a kilometre or so beyond the main part of the village, and are quite well developed as an attraction, with plenty of parking and a café and shop. They are well worth seeing, made up of two accessible complexes, connected by a man-made tunnel. The ﬁrst, the so-called Grotta della Bàsura or “Witch’s Cave” was inhabited some 12,000 years ago, and you can see well-marked foot- and handprints to prove it, as well as the well-preserved bones of bears who lived here around 20,000 years earlier. Beyond, the Grotta di Santa Lucia Inferiore has some remarkable stalagmite and stalactite formations, including stone ﬂowers and rare, rounded stalactites, while outside and above, the grotto and church of Santa Lucia Superiore holds a natural spring that was dedicated in the Middle Ages to St Lucy, patron saint of eyesight, after several miraculous cures were effected here. You too can have a drink – bottles are left out for the purpose. If you need more than a drink, Da Malin, on Toirano’s central Piazza Libertà, is good for lunch, with salads, focaccia and toasted sandwiches.

Alassio, Laigueglia and around

Some 30km west of Alassio is the provincial capital of IMPERIA, a sprawling settlement that was formed in 1923 when Mussolini linked twin townships on either side of the River Impero. Imposing Porto Maurizio, on the western bank, is the more likeable of the two, ascending the hillside in a series of zigzags from a marina and small beach, with its stepped old quarter dominated by a massive late-eighteenth-century cathedral and a series of Baroque churches and elegant villas. Quieter Oneglia, 2km east, is a more workaday place, devoted to ﬁshing and the local olive industry, most manifest in local producer Fratelli Carli’s Museo dell’Olivo, behind the train station at Via Garessio 11 (Mon–Sat 9am–12.30pm & 3–6.30pm; free), which houses modern displays devoted to the history of Liguria’s green nectar. The tourist office is just back from the seafront at Viale Matteotti 37 in Porto Maurizio (Mon–Sat 9am–12.30pm & 3.30–7pm, Sun 9am–12.30pm; T 0183.660.140), near to which you’ll also ﬁnd the comfortable hotels Croce di Malta, overlooking the old harbour at Via Scarincio 148 (T 0183.667.020, W www .hotelcrocedimalta.com; 3 ), and Corallo at Corso Garibaldi 29 (T 0183.666.264, W www.coralloimperia.it; 3 ), where the rooms are light and airy and all have sea views.

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Imperia

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A ﬁfteen-minute drive from Albenga is ALASSIO, with a spectacular fourkilometre ﬁne-sand beach and a nice enough old centre just behind, though many people come here to take motorboat trips out to the Isola Gallinara island nature reserve, which has the remains of a Benedictine monastery. Expect crowds during high season. LAIGUEGLIA, the next resort west, is more appealing, an ex-ﬁshing port with a nice old centre of porticoed streets and alleys that gives straight onto the town’s attractive sandy beach in places, although there are very few non-paying spots in the centre of town. Nonetheless it’s one of the more appealing resorts along here to kick back and relax for a while, and much quieter than Alassio. A short way inland from Laigueglia, the hilltop village of COLLA MICHERI was famously restored by the explorer and anthropologist Thor Heyerdahl, who lived here until his death in 2002.

San Remo Set on a broad sweeping bay between twin headlands, SAN REMO had its heyday as a classy resort in the sixty years or so up to the outbreak of World War II, when the Empress Maria Alexandrovna headed a substantial Russian community in the

A walk from Laigueglia A walk up the steps from the junction of Via Mimosa and the main Via Roma in Laigueglia takes you away from the coast through to the old Roman road near the top of the hill. From here, follow the strada privata into the woods and take the signposted path for about forty minutes to the ruins of the Castello di Andora and what is held to be one of the most important medieval monuments of the Riviera, the beautiful thirteenth-century church of Sts Giacomo and Filippo. Even if you never get to the church and castle, the walk along mule tracks between olive groves and woods is gorgeous. From the castle you can either backtrack or walk on through the outskirts of the village of Andora to its train station.

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The Alta Via dei Monti Liguri

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The Alta Via dei Monti Liguri is a long-distance high-level trail covering the length of Liguria, from Ventimiglia in the west all across the ridge-tops to Ceparana on the Tuscan border above La Spezia in the east – a total distance of some 440km. The mountains, which form the connection between the Alps and the Apennines, aren’t high – rarely more than 1500m – meaning that the scenic route, which makes full use of the many passes between peaks, is correspondingly easy-going. The whole thing would take weeks to complete in full, but has been divided up into 43 stages of between 2 and 4 hours each, making it easy to dip in and out of. Trail support and maintenance is good, with rifugi dotted along the path and distinctive waymarks (red-white-red “AV” signs). Unfortunately, access from the main coastal towns to most other parts of the Alta Via can be tricky, and requires juggling with route itineraries and bus timetables. A sample walk starts from point 26 – Crocetta d’Orero, on the Genoa–Casella train line: heading east from Crocetta, an easy route covers 7.8km to point 27, Colle di Creto (2hr 30min, and served by Genoa buses), with a diversion along the way to a lovely ﬂower-strewn path in and around the deserted hamlet of Ciatti. Another sample walk, the very ﬁrst stage of all, from Ventimiglia to La Colla, sidelining to Dolceacqua, is outlined on p.123. For information on the Alta Via, your best bet is the Associazione Alta Via dei Monti Liguri, which produces a full-colour wall-map of the route, along with detailed English descriptions and timings of all 43 stages (plus hotels and restaurants along the way). Books and an eight-pamphlet guide to the trail are on sale in bookshops. The same information is at W www.parks.it. Club Alpino Italiano ofﬁces in the major towns have information on rifugi, and the Federazione Italiano Escursionismo (FIE) publishes detailed guides to all the inland paths of Liguria.

town (Tchaikovsky completed Eugene Onegin and wrote his Fourth Symphony in San Remo in 1878). Some of the grand hotels overlooking the sea, especially those near the train station, are now grimy and crumbling, but others in the ritzier western parts of town are still in pristine condition, opening their doors to Europe’s remaining aristocrats season after season. San Remo is blessed with the Italian Riviera’s most famous casino, and remains a showy and attractive town, with a good beach and a labyrinthine old town standing guard over the palm-laden walkways below. The town has its fair share of events too. Every January the Festival dei Fiori (Festival of Flowers) sees ﬂora-bedecked ﬂoats make their way through the town, displaying products by the area’s horticulturists. The ﬁve-day Festa della Canzone in early March is a journey to the dark heart of Italian pop – not for the faint-hearted – while July’s Campionato Mondiale di Fuochi d’Artiﬁcio, or World Fireworks Championship, is not for the jittery. Arrival, information and accommodation

San Remo’s modern underground train station is east of the town centre on Corso Cavallotti. It’s a ﬁve-minute walk east from here along Corso Garibaldi to the main bus station on Piazza Colombo, and the centre of town. The tourist office is on the other side of the town centre at Largo Nuvoloni 1 (Mon–Sat 8.30am–7pm, Sun 9am–1pm; T 0184.59.059, W www.visitrivieradeiﬁori.it). 120

Hotels Al Dom Corso Mombello 13 T 0184.501.460. This third-ﬂoor family-run hotel has large

and airy rooms and is in a great location, but it can be a bit noisy. You also need to like dogs. 1 –2

this is how they did things in times gone by, and is really the place to stay if you’re dressing for dinner and gambling at the casino down below. Great facilities – three restaurants and a vast, heated, salt-water swimming pool set in a tropical garden – and lovely, large, renovated rooms. 8

Campsite

The Town

San Remo’s main artery is the largely pedestrianized Corso Matteotti, at one end of which is the town’s landmark Casinò (daily 2.30pm–3am, slots from 10.30am; Mon–Thurs free, Fri–Sun €7.50; T 0184.59.51, W www.casinosan remo.it), an ornate white palace with grand staircases and distinctive turrets that epitomizes the town’s old-fashioned ﬁn-de-siècle charm. It’s a theatre too, and hosts San Remo’s long-running festival of popular song every March. Anyone can visit, as long you have your passport as ID, and, in the main part of the casino, a jacket and tie (the slot machines area is more informal); or you can tour the gaming rooms, roof garden and theatre on regular guided tours throughout the summer ( July & Aug Sat 9.30am; €3); entrance is from the side entrance to the theatre on the left. Beyond the casino, the palm-lined boulevard of Corso Imperatrice stretches along the seafront west of the centre. Just back from the seafront, the impressive onion-domed Russian Orthodox church is a manifestation of San Remo’s former Russian community (Tues–Sun 9.30am–12.30pm & 3–6.30pm), built in the 1920s, though more impressive outside than in. In the other direction from the casino, Corso Matteotti leads east, lined with cocktail bars, gelaterie, cinemas and clothes stores, through the commercial centre of town. At Corso Matteotti 143, the Renaissance Palazzo Borea d’Olmo houses the Museo Civico (Tues–Sat 9am–7pm; free), with the usual array of local archeological ﬁnds, paintings and items relating to the Risorgimento (Garibaldi spent quite a bit of time in San Remo). However you might prefer to investigate the streets just above, where busy Via Palazzo gives way to a warren of narrow streets and eventually the mainly Romanesque Cattedrale di San Siro (Mon–Sat 8–11.45am & 3–5.45pm, Sun 7.30am–12.15pm & 3.30–7pm), decorated with unusual twelfth-century bas reliefs above each of its side doors and with a very ancient feel within; note the ﬁfteenth-century processional black cruciﬁx in the right aisle. Above here is La Pigna or “The Pine Cone”, perhaps San Remo’s most fascinating quarter, accessible up steep lanes north of Piazza Eroi Sanremesi and Piazza Cassini. Known for its kasbah-like arched passageways and alleys, it is remarkably ungentriﬁed – and a stark contrast to the crisp and bustling modern streets down below. It’s fascinating to wander through its quiet streets and the views from the top are great. San Remo’s seafront is good for a wander. Following Corso Mombello from Corso Matteotti takes you down to the Porto Vecchio, full of high-end boats and lined with restaurants and cafés, while at the end of Corso Matteotti,

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Villaggio dei Fiori Via Tiro a Volo 3 T0184.660.635, W www.villaggiodeiﬁori.it. Facility-laden campsite about 2km west of town which has space for tents and caravans, plus chalets and bungalows for rent. Open all year but best to book in advance in high season.

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Alexander Corso Garibaldi 123 T0184.504.591, W www.hotelalexandersanremo.com. Five minutes’ walk from the train station, the rooms here don’t quite live up to the beautiful belle époque building, but they’re nice enough, the welcome is friendly, and there’s a pleasant garden out the front and parking at the rear. 2 Paradiso Via Roccasterone 12 T0184.571.211, W www.paradisohotel.it. If you want a quiet location above the town’s bustle, this is the place, with sunny, modern rooms and a secluded garden and pool. 5 Royal Hotel Corso Imperatrice 80 T 0184.5391, W www.royalhotelsanremo.com. A grand white presence above San Remo’s western seafront,

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opposite the tourist office, there are some small stretches of beach, as well as a larger stretch at the other end of town just east of the Porto Vecchio, not far from the train station. Eating and drinking L IGURIA

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Café Permare Via N. Sauro 42/44 T 0184.503.755. Cool, modern café-restaurant, good for lunch and dinner, with daily specials for €9–14, pizzas in the evening and relaxed terrace overlooking the port from which to enjoy them. There’s a trendy bar out the back, too. Cantine Sanremesi Via Palazzo 7 T 0184.572.063. Informal wine bar with a few tables outside that make a good lunch stop, with great focaccia, and lots of pasta

dishes and Ligurian specialities like potato and octopus salad. Piccolo Mondo Via Piave 7 T0184.509.012. Charming trattoria in an alley off Corso Matteotti, with tables outside and serving delicious Ligurian specialities such as stuffed anchovies and pasta with home-made pesto, beans and courgettes (€10.50). The owner speaks good English. No credit cards. Closed Sun & Mon dinner.

Ventimiglia and around Barely 6km east of the French border, VENTIMIGLIA is an unexceptional frontier town that enjoyed several centuries of minor prosperity thanks to constant border traffic. However, it’s been experiencing hard times since the 1995 Schengen agreement permitted unchecked passage between France and Italy and rendered the town’s role as stopover and refreshment point redundant. The town does make a good base for country walks though, especially as the hotels are cheaper than

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There are any number of places along the coast to sample the delights of inland Liguria, but one of the best is the Valle Argentina, which heads inland from the bustling seaside resort of Arma di Taggia, 6km east of San Remo. Sleepy, crumbling Taggia, 3km north, is known for its sixteen-arched Romanesque bridge, the taggiasca black olive that is famed for giving top-quality oil, and a collection of work by Ligurian artists in the black-and-white stone convent church of San Domenico just outside the old walls. If you can, time a visit for the third Sunday in July, when the ancient festa of Santa Maria Maddalena culminates in a “Dance of Death” performed by two men, traditionally from the same two families, accompanied by the local brass and woodwind band. Some 25km further up the valley is the tiny village of Triora, reachable by bus direct from San Remo (4 services daily from the main bus station) – a trip worth doing in its own right, the road wending its way past small settlements with ancient bridges and farms linked to the main road across the valley by a rope-and-pulley system. Triora is almost within sight of Monte Pietradura, which stays snowcapped until April. In 1588, after an unexpected famine, two hundred women in this isolated community were denounced by the Inquisition as witches: rumour has it that thirty were tortured, fourteen were burned at the stake, and one woman committed suicide before she could be executed. Documents from the trial are preserved in the Museo Etnograﬁco in the village, and a commemorative plaque adorns the overgrown Cabotina just outside the village, supposed scene of the witches’ gatherings. Also worth seeking out is the celebrated Sienese painter Taddeo di Bartolo’s Baptism of Christ (1397), hung in the baptistry of the Romanesque-Gothic Collegiata church. The village has a single hotel, the lovely Colomba d’Oro, Corso Italia 66 (T 0184.94.051, W www.colombadoro.it; 2 ), comfortably converted from an old monastery.

A walk to Dolceacqua

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those in other nearby resorts, and it has a lively modern centre, with a handful of good restaurants and delis, and an old town across the river, focused around the Romanesque Cattedrale dell’Assunta. Below here are some stretches of beach, while on the opposite side of the centre there’s a low-key Area Archeologica, where you can see some remains of a third-century Roman amphitheatre and baths (Sat & Sun 3–6pm; free). Ventimiglia’s train station is just north of the centre, off Via Cavour. If you want to stay, the pleasant Sea Gull, below the old town at Passeggiata Marconi 24 (T 0184.351.726, W www.seagullhotel.it; 3 ), has rooms with balconies and sea views and its own patch of beach; for food, you could try the Usteria d’a Porta Marina, overlooking the river at Via Trossarelli 22 (T 0184.351.650; closed Tues dinner & Wed). Some 5km from Ventimiglia along the coast, the village of MÓRTOLA INFERIORE is famed for the spectacular hillside Giardini Botanici “Hanbury” (April to mid-June daily 10am–5pm; mid-June to Sept daily 9am–6pm; Oct daily 10am–6pm; Nov–March Thurs–Tues 10am–4pm; €7.50) – reachable by taking bus #1a from Via Cavour (every hour, on the hour, no service 3–4pm). The gardens were laid out in 1867 by Sir Thomas Hanbury, a London spice merchant who set up home here, and are highly atmospheric, with hidden corners and pergola-covered walks tumbling down to the sea. A thirty-minute walk further west along the coast road – or a few minutes on bus #1a – is the frontier post.

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One of the best walks around Ventimiglia comprises Stage One of the Alta Via dei Monti Liguri hiking trail (see box, p.120). The ten-kilometre route (an easy-ish 3hr romp) begins from Ventimiglia’s tourist ofﬁce, and takes you through ridge-top vineyards to the medieval village of Dolceacqua, known for its red wine and olive oil. Buses run between Dolceacqua and Ventimiglia for those who don’t fancy the walk back.

The Riviera di Levante The coast east of Genoa, dubbed the Riviera di Levante, is perhaps more varied and beautiful than its counterpart to the west, but also not the place to come for a get-away-from-it-all holiday, with a series of towns and villages that once eked a living from ﬁshing and coral diving but have been transformed by thirty years of tourism. That said, it’s a glorious and rugged stretch of coast, its cliffs and bays covered with pine and olive trees, and with a number of very appealing resorts. The footpaths that crisscross the headland of Monte di Portoﬁno are a great way to get off the beaten tourist track, and the harbour towns each side – Camogli towards Genoa and Santa Margherita in the Golfo di Tigullio – are well worth a visit; and of course Portoﬁno itself is an upscale resort of some renown. Other highlights include big, feisty resorts like Rapallo, and smaller, quieter places like Sestri Levante, while further east, the main road (though not the railway) heads inland, bypassing the laid back beach town of Lévanto and the spectacular Cinque Terre coast (now a national park and great, organized walking country). The road joins the train line again at the naval port of La Spezia, at the head of the Golfo dei Poeti, on either side of which Portovénere and Lérici (the latter almost in Tuscany) are very enticing spots.

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If you’re visiting Camogli on the second Sunday in May, you won’t be able to miss the Sagra del Pesce, preceded on the Saturday night by ﬁreworks and a huge bonﬁre. This generous – and smelly – event has its origins in celebrating the muniﬁcence of the sea and retains its ancient resonance for Camogli’s ﬁsherfolk even today. Thousands of ﬁsh are plucked fresh from the waves, ﬂipped into a giant frying-pan set up on the harbourfront and distributed free of charge to all and sundry as a demonstration of the sea’s abundance (and in the hope for its continuation). In recent years the event has been beset by quibbles: bureaucrats have suggested that the frying pan – some four metres across – is a health hazard, and there have even been allegations that frozen ﬁsh is defrosted out at sea and then passed off as fresh. For all that, local enthusiasm for the festival hasn’t waned one bit.

Camogli CAMOGLI was the “saltiest, roughest, most piratical little place”, according to Dickens when he visited the town. Though it still has the “smell of ﬁsh, and seaweed, and old rope” that the author relished, it’s had its rough edges knocked off since his day, and is now one of the most attractive small resorts along this stretch of the coast. The town’s name, a contraction of Casa Mogli (House of Wives), comes from the days when voyages lasted for years and the women ran the port while the men were away. Camogli supported a huge ﬂeet of seven hundred vessels in its day, which once saw off Napoleon. The town declined in the age of steam, but has been reborn as a classy getaway without the exaggerated prices found further round the coast. Camogli’s serried towers of nineteenth-century apartment blocks line up above the waterfront and a small promontory topped with the medieval Castello Dragone, on one side of which there’s a busy harbour, crammed with ﬁshing boats, and on the other a section of pebble beach, backed by a long promenade of bars and restaurants. The train station is just inland and uphill from here, not far from which there’s a small tourist office at Via XX Settembre 33 (Mon–Sat 9am–12.30 & 3–7pm, Sun 9am–12.30pm; T 0185.771.066, W www.prolococa mogli.it). For accommodation, the Augusta, just above the harbour at Via Piero Schiaffino 100 (T 0185.770.592, W www.htlaugusta.com; 3 ), is a good-value family-run hotel with attractive air-conditioned rooms, all en suite; at the other end of the town centre, the Casmona, Salita Pineto 13 (T 0185.770.015, W www.casmona.com; 5 ), is housed in a seafront nineteenth-century villa and has light, airy rooms with sea views and balconies. Just out of town, the best choice is probably the A Villa Rosmarino at Via Ficari 38 (T 0185.771.580, W www.villarosmarino.com; 5 ), a ﬁve-minute walk from the train station – a boutique hotel in a nineteenth-century palazzo with seven cool white rooms hung with contemporary art, lush grounds and a pool. Not too far away, the Cenobio dei Dogi, Via Cúneo 34 T 0185.7241, W www.cenobio.it; 6 ), is the other upmarket alternative, a lavish hotel that was once the summer palace of Genoa’s doges, with its own park, beach, pool, tennis courts and restaurants. For food, try the excellent local focaccia, on sale in most bakeries, or wander along the waterfront and check out the ﬁsh on display at the various restaurants built out over the water. Try La Camogliese, Via Garibaldi 78 (T 0185.771.086); Rosa, at the other end of town at Via Jacopo Ruffini 13 (T 0185.773.411; closed Tues & Wed lunch); or – perhaps Camogli’s best choice – Nonna Nina, in San Rocco (T 0185.773.835; closed Wed), about ten minutes’ walk from the seafront up on the Portoﬁno headland.

Portoﬁno

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There’s no denying the appeal of PORTOFINO, tucked into a protected inlet surrounded by lush cypress- and olive-clad slopes, an A-list resort that has been attracting high-end bankers, celebs and their hangers-on for years, as evidenced by the ﬂotillas of giant yachts that are usually anchored just outside. It’s a tiny place that manages to be both attractive and off-putting at the same time. Once you’ve surveyed the expensive waterfront shops and restaurants and perhaps climbed up to the castle, there’s little to do other than watch the day’s endless procession of tour groups do the same; bear in mind, though, that a couple of peaceful harbourside beers will leave you little change from €20. The village lies at the end of a narrow and treacherously winding road just 5km south of Santa Margherita, though bus journeys can take longer than the boats that shuttle regularly to and from all nearby ports in summer. To get a sense of Portoﬁno’s idyllic setting follow the footpath which heads south from the harbour up onto the headland. Five minutes from the village is the church of San Giorgio, said to contain relics of St George, and a further ten minutes up is the spectacularly located Castello Brown (daily: summer 10am–7pm, winter 10am–5pm; €4), from whose terrace there are breathtaking views of a pint-sized Portoﬁno. The castle, which dates back to the Roman period and now frequently hosts art and photography exhibitions, is named after its former owner, British Consul Montague Yeats Brown, who bought it in 1867 and set about transforming it. In 1870 he planted two pines on the main terrace for his wedding – one for him and one for his wife, Agnes Bellingham – and they are still a prominent feature today. The scenic path continues for a kilometre or so, down to the Faro (lighthouse) on the very tip of the promontory. The only way back is up the same path. Northwest from the village, steeply stepped paths head through vineyards and orchards to Olmi and on to San Fruttuoso (see p.126), while the best sandy beach is the sparkling cove at Paraggi, 2km back towards Santa Margherita on the coast road (buses will stop on request) – not exactly remote, but less formal than Portoﬁno and with a small stretch of pebbly sand and a couple of bars set back from the water. Practicalities

Portoﬁno’s tourist office is at Via Roma 35 (summer daily 10am–1pm & 3–7pm; winter Tues–Sun 10.30am–1.30pm & 2.30–4.30pm; T 0185.269.024).

Local boats to Camogli, Portofino and Santa Margherita During summer, dozens of boats serve points along the Tigullio coast and beyond. There are shuttles between Genoa’s Porto Antico and Camogli several times a day, taking an hour (€10). Golfo Paradiso (Via Scalo 3, Camogli; T 0185.772.09, Wwww .golfoparadiso.it) run regular ferries connecting Camogli with tranquil Punta Chiappa, ideal for a spot of swimming and basking in the sun, and San Fruttuoso – ditto (May–Sept at least hourly; Oct–April Mon–Fri 3 daily, Sat & Sun hourly; €8 to Punta Chiappa, €10 to San Fruttuoso). The most popular line shuttles between Rapallo, Santa Margherita, Portoﬁno and San Fruttuoso, taking around ﬁfteen minutes between each (summer hourly; winter 2 on Sun; T0185.284.670, Wwww.traghetti portoﬁno.it). There are also lovely night excursions on the same route (July & Aug 2–8 weekly). The most you’ll pay for a one-way fare is €15.50. Boats also connect Camogli and the places above to the Cinque Terre (€15), and some continue to Portovénere and Lérici (€19). The best-value round-trip cruise ticket is the Super Cinque Terre, which allows stops of 1hr in Riomaggiore, 3hr for lunch in Monterosso and 1hr in Vernazza (June–Sept 2 weekly; €30).

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Accommodation is unsurprisingly expensive: luxury is really the point of Portoﬁno. The Eden is probably the cheapest option, set within its own delightful gardens in the centre at Vico Dritto 8 (T 0185.269.091, W www.hotel edenportoﬁno.com; 7 ), and very nice it is too; rates drop drastically midweek, out of season. But if money is no object, the place to stay is the Splendido, high above the village at Viale Baratta 16 (T 0185.269.551, W www.hotelsplendido .com; 9 ), with its fabulously lush grounds and stupendous views. There is another, smaller location – the Splendido Mare – for those who prefer to be down in the port. Eating out is similarly pricey, but it’s worth it to eat seafood at the Splendido’s Chuﬂay restaurant right on the harbour (T 0185.269.020; closed Mon & Tues), or at the chic Il Pitosforo, also on the waterfont (T 0185.269.020; closed Mon & Tues).

San Fruttuoso The enchanting thousand-year-old abbey of SAN FRUTTUOSO is one of the principal draws along this stretch of the Riviera, occupying a picturesque little bay at the southern foot of Monte di Portoﬁno. The only way to get there is on foot or by boat, dozens of which shuttle backwards and forwards from practically every harbour along the coast during peak season. On summer weekends, the tiny pebble beach and church may be uncomfortably crowded, but out of season (or at twilight, courtesy of the occasional night cruise), San Fruttuoso is a peaceful, excellent place for doing very little. The Abbazia di San Fruttuoso (daily 10am–5.45pm; €7) was originally built to house the relics of the third-century martyr St Fructuosus, which were brought here from Spain after the Moorish invasion in 711. It was rebuilt in 984 with an unusual Byzantine-style cupola and distinctive waterside arches and later

Walks around Portofino

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The Portoﬁno headland – protected as the Parco Naturale Regionale di Portoﬁno (W www.parks.it) and encircled by cliffs and small coves – is one of the most rewarding areas for walking on the Riviera coast. At 612m, Monte di Portoﬁno is high enough to be interesting but not so high as to demand any specialist hiking prowess. The trails cross slopes of wild thyme, pine and holm oak, enveloped in summer in the constant whirring of cicadas. From the summit, the view over successive headlands is breathtaking. Not many people walk these marked paths, maybe because their early stages are fairly steep – but they aren’t particularly strenuous, levelling off later and with plenty of places to stop. One of the best trails skirts the whole headland, beginning in Camogli, on the western side of the promontory. The path rises gently for 1km south to San Rocco (221m), then follows the coast south to a viewpoint above Punta Chiappa, before swinging east to the scenic Passo del Bacio (200m), rising to a ridge-top and then descending gently through the olive trees and palms to San Fruttuoso (3hr from Camogli). It continues east over a little headland and onto the wild and beautiful cliff-tops above Punta Carega, before passing through the hamlets of Prato, Olmi and Cappelletta and down steps to Portoﬁno (4hr 30min from Camogli). There are plenty of alternative routes. About 1km south of San Rocco, an easier path forks inland up to Portoﬁno Vetta and Pietre Strette (452m), before leading down again through the foliage to San Fruttuoso (2hr 30min from Camogli). Ruta is a small village 250m up on the north side of Monte di Portoﬁno, served by buses from Camogli, Santa Margherita and Rapallo; a peaceful, little-trod trail from Ruta heads up to the summit of the mountain (2hr), or diverts partway along to take you across country to Olmi and on to Portoﬁno (2hr 30min from Ruta).

SANTA MARGHERITA LIGURE is a small, thoroughly attractive, palm-laden resort, tucked into an inlet and replete with grand hotels, garden villas and views of the glittering bay. In the daytime, trendy young Italians cruise the streets or whizz around the harbour on jet skis, while the rest of the family sunbathes or crams the gelaterie. Santa Margherita is far cheaper to stay in than Portoﬁno and less crowded than Rapallo, and makes a good base both for taking boats and trains up and down the coast and for exploring the countryside on foot.

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Santa Margherita Ligure

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became a Benedictine abbey that exerted a sizeable degree of control over the surrounding countryside. The Doria family took over in the sixteenth century, adding the defensive Torre dei Doria nearby, and the small, elegant church, with its compact little cloister and half-dozen Doria tombs. Off the headland, a 1954 bronze statue known as the Cristo degli Abissi (Christ of the Depths) rests eight fathoms down on the sea bed, to honour the memory of divers who have lost their lives at sea and to protect those still working beneath the waves. Taxi boats queue up to take you there. There are a handful of simple restaurants on San Fruttuoso’s beach serving sandwiches, pasta and steamed mussels, the largest of which – Da Giovanni (T 0185.770.047; half-board 5 ) – offers simple rooms, but you’ll need to book ahead.

Arrival, information and accommodation

Santa Margherita’s train station overlooks the harbour, from where it is a ﬁve-to ten-minute walk to the tourist office, right in the centre on the waterfront Piazza Vittorio Veneto (daily 9.30am–12.30pm & 1–8pm; T 0185.287.485). Buses stop right outside for Portoﬁno, San Michele and Rapallo. Hotels Albergo Fasce T 0185.286.435, Wwww .hotelfasce.it. A good mid-priced hotel nicely located on a quiet side-street, with good-sized rooms and a panoramic roof-terrace. Free bikes for hotel guests’ use. 4 Annabella Via Costasecca 10 T0185.286.531. Simple hotel whose attractive rooms have shared bathrooms. 2 Continental Via Pagan 8 T 0185/286.512, W www.hotel-continental.it. One of a group of

hotels just above Santa Margherita, ﬁve minutes’ walk from the centre, this has spacious rooms with balconies and sea views, a lovely terrace and gardens which lead down to private bathing facilities. A treat for the price. 6 Lido Palace Via Doria 3 T0185.285.821, Wwww.lidopalacehotel.com. This impressive seafront hotel is right by Santa Margherita’s small beach and has spacious, modern rooms. 6

The Town and around

The town is in two parts: one set around a harbour and gardens and a small town beach; and a second, more commercial harbour around the headland. In between there’s a small castle, and behind this the shady gardens of the sixteenth-century Villa Durazzo ( Jan–March 9am–5pm; April & Oct 9am–6pm; May, June & Sept 9am–7pm; July & Aug 9am–8pm; free), which is host to art exhibitions and the like. There’s a decent if small town beach, but the best beaches are out of town, accessible by bus: south towards Portoﬁno is Paraggi (see p.125), while to the north the road drops down to a patch of beach in the bay of San Michele di Pagana. In addition to its beach bars and crystalclear water, a Cruciﬁxion by Van Dyck in the church of San Michele may prove an added incentive for a visit.

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Santa Margherita is a popular venue for watersports. The European Dive-In Center, Lungomare Milite Ignoto (T 349.211.8893, W www.europeandc.com), offers diving courses and excursions around the Portoﬁno headland, and there’s a handful of places in the old harbour offering boats for rent. Walking trails cross the Monte di Portoﬁno headland: marked paths from Santa Margherita to Pietre Strette (1hr 30min) and Olmi (1hr 40min) link in with the trails outlined in the box on p.126. Eating and drinking

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Dei Pescatori Via Bottaro 43 T0185.286.747. Nice place on the waterfront in the old port for traditional ﬁsh dishes such as ﬁsh baked with potatoes, olives and pine nuts (€16.50). Closed Tues, except in July and Aug, when it closes Mon & Tues lunchtime. L’Ancora Via Maragliano 7 T 0185.280.559. This excellent-value, mid-priced, traditional ﬁsh restaurant a block back from the waterfront in the old port is a great place to try

baked ﬁsh with potatoes. No outside seating. Closed Tues. Trattoria Baicin Via Algeria 5 T0185.286.763. A very good and reasonably priced family-run seafood restaurant, right in the centre of town, just back from the waterfront park, offering great Ligurian specialities such as swordﬁsh with tomato sauce and olives. Closed Mon & Jan.

Rapallo RAPALLO is larger and has a more urban feel than anywhere else along the coast, a highly developed resort with an expanse of glass-fronted restaurants and plush hotels crowding around a south-facing bay. In the early part of the twentieth century it was a backwater, and writers in particular came for the bay’s extraordinary beauty, of which you now get an inkling only early in the morning or at dusk. Max Beerbohm lived in Rapallo for the second half of his life, and attracted a literary circle to the town; Ezra Pound wrote the ﬁrst thirty of his Cantos here between 1925 and 1930, D.H. Lawrence stayed for a while and Hemingway also dropped by (but came away muttering that the sea was ﬂat and boring). There’s a pleasant old town tucked away behind the seafront hotels, but otherwise the town’s landmarks are the large marina and the castle, now converted into an exhibition space, at the end of a small causeway. Despite the beauty of the bay, there’s not much to Rapallo’s beaches: there’s a free patch of shingle right by the castle, and some pay-beaches on the other side of the bay close to the Riviera. Arrival, information and accommodation

Rapallo’s train station is a ﬁve-minute walk from the sea on Piazza Molﬁno – just follow Corso Italia from the station and turn left at Piazza Cavour for the old town and seafront. The tourist office is at Lungomare V. Veneto 7 (daily 10am–1pm & 3.30–7pm; T 0185.230.346), and can provide details of diving outﬁts in the town and places to rent boats. Hotels

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Bandoni Via Marsala 24 T 0185.50.423, E [email protected]. Housed in a ﬁne old palazzo overlooking the sea, next door to the more expensive Miramare, this is the best bargain in town, if a little rough around the edges. 2 Excelsior Palace Via San Michele di Pagana 8 T 0185.230.666, W www.thi-hotels.com. Rapallo’s

ﬂagship ﬁve-star hotel, at the western edge of town high above the shore, has splendidly lavish rooms, a state-of-the-art spa, and two reﬁned, romantic restaurants. 8 Miramare Lungomare V. Veneto 27 T0185.230.261, W www.miramare-hotel.it. Pleasant hotel with spacious, spotless rooms overlooking the sea. 7

Riviera Piazza IV Novembre 2 T0185.50.248, W www.hotelrivierarapallo.com. Hemingway wrote Cat in the Rain while staying in this belle époque hotel overlooking the sea in 1923. Service is good and the rooms are nice with balconies and sea views, but the sense of history has been lost in their renovation. 5

Stella Via Aurelia Ponente 6 T0185.50.367, W www.hotelstella-riviera.com. An affordable and welcoming place, with a roof terrace and decent rooms, a couple of which have small balconies, though the busy main road outside can be noisy. 3

on tables outside under Rapallo’s medieval arcades. Pasta dishes €7–11, mains €15–20. Closed Wed. Il Castello Lungomare Castello 6 T 0185.52.426. Delightful restaurant and wine bar just past the castle, with a pleasant waterfront terrace and pasta dishes for €9–14 and mains for €14–18. Closed Thurs. O Bansin Via Venezia 105 T 0185.231.119. Affordable old-town restaurant; try their signature pasta dish with pesto, tomatoes and cream. Closed Sun lunch.

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Antica Cucina Genovese Via S. M. del Campo 133–139 T 0185.206.009. A couple of kilometres outside town, this place gives you the chance not only to sample some of the region’s best cuisine, but to learn how to cook it as well. There’s an emphasis on the vegetables and local produce of the area, with lots of vegetarian options, and the chefs give demonstrations on cooking everything from ravioli to cheese focaccia. Closed Mon. Da Mario Piazza Garibaldi 23 T 0185.53.736. Moderate prices, and great seafood served

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Eating and drinking

Sestri Levante Some 20km east of Rapallo, SESTRI LEVANTE is another large resort, though with a quite different feel to its brasher neighbours, its centre set on a narrow isthmus between two bays – the Bay of Fables, with a broad sandy beach decked with umbrellas, and the quieter Bay of Silence, a picturesque curve of sand overlooked by bobbing ﬁshing boats. A former ﬁshing village, the town has a relaxed feel, and is one of the nicer places to stay along this stretch of coast, with a number of decent hotels in its old quarter and within easy walking distance of the town’s beaches. The train station is a ﬁve- to ten-minute walk from the beach at the end of Viale Roma in the modern part of town, on Piazza Caduti di Via Fani. From here it’s a two-minute walk to the tourist office at Piazza Sant’Antonio 10 (daily 10am–1pm & 2.30–6.30pm; T 0185.457.011). For accommodation, try the Albergo San Pietro, at Via Palesto 13 (T 0185.41.279, E hotelsanpietro59@libero .it; 2 ), a simple hotel but in a great location just steps from the sands of the Bay of Silence. The Villa Jolanda, on the other side of the Bay at Vico Pozzetto 15 (T 0185.41.354, W www.villaiolanda.it; 2 ), has nice rooms with balconies, a shady terrace and garden for alfresco breakfasts, and overlooks the Due Mari, Vico del Coro 18 (T 0185.42.695, W www.duemarihotel.it; 5 ), which also has gardens and a pool, as well as fairly palatial rooms, and parking. For restaurants, try the Millelire, Via XXV Aprile 153, for focaccia and snacks at lunchtime, or the excellent Cantina del Polpo (T 0185.485.296), around the corner at Piazza Cavour 2, a cosy, dark-wood restaurant with covered terrace that does a good line in seafood and ﬁsh, mostly for €10–15, and has lots of daily specials. The canteen-like L’Osteria Mattana, Via XXV Aprile 36, is open evenings-only for Ligurian specialities (T 0185.457.633).

The Cinque Terre The stupendous folded coastline of the Cinque Terre (Five Lands) stretches between the beach resort of Lévanto and the port of La Spezia. The area is

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Walking in the Cinque Terre

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Most people come to the Cinque Terre to walk, but in order to walk the national park’s most popular route – the Blue Route (Sentiero Azzurro), or Path no. 2, from Riomaggiore to Monterosso – you have to invest in a Cinque Terre Card, which gives access to the path for one (€5), two (€8), three (€10) or seven days (€20). You can also get a version which includes the train for €8.50, €14.70, €19.50 and €36.50 respectively. The park’s Red Route (Sentiero Rosso), or Path no. 1, is free. The rudimentary tourist ofﬁces at each of the stations that sell the card can provide maps and information, and advise on itineraries. Despite its popularity, the Blue Route is well worth doing, out of season at least (11km; around 5hr); it hugs the shoreline between all ﬁve villages, offering spectacular scenery along the way. Another highly rewarding walk is Path no. 10, which leads from Monterosso station up through pine woods and onto a ﬂight of steps that emerge at the Sant’Antonio church on the high point of the Punta Mesco headland (1hr), giving a spectacular panorama along the length of the Cinque Terre coastline. Note that most of the paths are unshaded and can be blisteringly hot in summer – make sure you wear a hat and carry a water bottle for even a short stroll. Walking shoes are advisable as paths are rocky and uneven at the best of times. Also, take note of weather forecasts in spring and autumn, as rainstorms can brew up rapidly and make paths treacherously slippery.

named for ﬁve tiny villages – Monterosso, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola and Riomaggiore – wedged into a series of coves between sheer cliffs; their comparative remoteness, and the dramatic nature of their position on a stunning coastline, make them the principal scenic highlight of the whole Riviera. They get pretty crowded in summer, and all the villages have lost some of their character to the tide of kitschy souvenir shops and overpriced, under-quality restaurants, but outside August you should try to take in at least part of the area – the scenery is breathtaking and there is some lovely walking between villages. Cinque Terre practicalities

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Much of the area is now officially protected as the Parco Nazionale delle Cinque Terre, the website of which, W www.cinqueterre.com, also operates a hotel booking service. You can also book apartments and hotels through Arbaspaa (T 0187.760.083, W www.arbaspaa.com), based in Manarola. You can get to and around the villages of the Cinque Terre by train, boat and on foot. There are regular slow trains between Lévanto and La Spezia that stop at every village. Boats from every company on the Riviera shuttle along this bit of coast all summer long. Be sure to conﬁrm which of the four waterside villages you’ll be stopping at (Corniglia has no harbour), and specify if you want a one-way ticket, rather than the more usual round-trip. Hopping between Cinque Terre villages by boat is easy, with between ﬁve and eight a day (April–Oct; sporadic service in winter) going in both directions – although watch out for a lull between about noon and 2.30pm. The most satisfactory way to get around is on foot: there’s a network of trails (see box above) linking the villages along the coast or up on the ridge-tops, which offer spectacular views. However, the coastal path in particular can get uncomfortably crowded throughout the summer months. Trying to tour the area by car or motorbike truly isn’t worth the effort. All ﬁve villages have road access, although the streets are narrow and exceptionally steep. There’s also very little public parking. You’d do better to leave your vehicle in Lévanto or La Spezia.

Lévanto

The tourist office is right by the beach at the end of the main Via Roma at Piazza Mazzini 3 (Mon–Sat 9am–1pm & 3–6pm, Sun 9am–1pm; T 0187.808.125), while the train station is ten-minutes’ walk inland from the seafront. Hotels Europa Via Dante Alighieri 41 T 0187.808.126, E [email protected]. This charmingly old-fashioned hotel is one of the nicest places to stay in the centre of Lévanto. It’s not high on mod cons, but does the simple things well, with pleasant, clean rooms and a warm welcome. 3 Maremesco Via Vecchia Mesco 10 T 0187.808.154, W www.maremesco.it. A secluded and relaxing B&B on the footpath leading towards Monterosso; driftwood sculptures and beach-glass mosaics decorate the rooms and terraces, and the ten-minute walk up from town is rewarded by spectacular views – and, when it’s hot, a dip in Enrico’s hand-built plunge pool. 2 Stella Maris Via Marconi 4 T 0187.808.258, W www.hotelstellamaris.it. Nicest of the hotels, with a handful of opulent rooms in the nineteenthcentury Palazzo Vannoni, plus some others in a more modern annexe. 5

Hostel and campsites Acqua Dolce Via Semenza 5 T 0187.808.465. Right by the medieval walls of the old town, this is the most convenient of several decent campsites in and around the town. Closed mid-Nov to mid-Dec & mid-Jan to Feb. Albero d’Oro Via Albero d’Oro 6 T0187.800.400. The best of a grouping of campsites ten minutes’ walk from the centre, out past the train station.

Ospitalia del Mare Via San Nicolò T0187.802.562, Wwww.ospitaliadelmare.it. A clean, modern and central hostel. Dorm beds €21.

Eating and drinking Antica Trattoria Centro Corso Italia 4 T 0187.808.157. Plenty of room here, inside and out, at one of Lévanto’s longest-established restaurants. Excellent food and the best service in town. Bruna Piazza Staglieno 42 T 0187.807.796. With a few tables outside and a fairly bare interior, there’s nothing immediately alluring about this place, but the pizzas are absolutely top-notch and reasonably priced. Not surprisingly, you can’t book, and you may have to wait for a table. Da Rino Via Garibaldi 10 T 0187.813.475. In the heart of old Lévanto, this place has outside tables and another room across the street to take the overﬂow. Its menu is not especially adventurous but consistently hits the mark with great seafood pasta. Da Tapulin Corso Italia 10 T 0187.808.671. One of the cheapest and best places in town, with great pasta and mains, and pizzas too, but it’s ever-popular – you may have to book to be sure of a table, particularly if you want to sit outside.

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Practicalities

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Anchoring the westernmost point of the Cinque Terre, the unpretentious small resort of LÉVANTO feels quite cut off by Ligurian standards, but it has a nice sandy beach (attracting a surfy crowd), inexpensive hotels and good transport links that make it perhaps the best base for exploring the area. There are no real sights – only the Loggia Comunale on the central Piazza del Popolo, the blackand-white-striped church of Sant’Andrea across the road from here in the old part of town, and the odd surviving stretch of medieval wall – but the town is a pleasant and, for the most part, thoroughly Italian seaside resort.

Monterosso

Tucked into a bay on the east side of the jutting headland of Punta Mesco, MONTEROSSO is the chief village of the Cinque Terre. It’s the largest of the ﬁve – population 1800 – and perhaps the most developed, conjoined with the modern beach resort of Fegina whose shingle beach strings along the shore by Monterosso’s station; there’s a free section right by the station. Beyond the rocky outcrop at the end, atop which is the seventeenth-century Convento dei Cappuccini, the old village is a pleasant tangle of streets around the

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striped thirteenth-century church of San Giovanni Battista. Monterosso’s most recent claim to fame is as the home town of the Nobel Prize-winning poet Eugenio Montale; his Ossi di Seppia (Cuttleﬁsh Bones) is a collection of early poems about his youth in the village. The coastal ferries stop in the little harbour, and there’s another, smaller stretch of shingle beach, again with a small free section. There’s a Cinque Terre tourist office in the station (daily 9am–7pm; T 0187.817.059), and a Pro Loco tourist office right outside at Via Fegina 38 (April–Nov daily 9.30am–noon & 4–7.30pm; T 0187.817.506). The top hotel in town is the Porto Roca, atop the rocks above Monterosso’s beach at Via Corone 1 (T 0187.817.502, W www.portoroca.it; March–Nov; 6 –8 ). The public areas are decorated in rather dingy style with suits of armour and huge drab pictures, but the bedrooms come with sea views, terraces and sun loungers. The Amici, in the old part of Monterosso at Via Buranco 36 (T 0187.817.544, W www.hotel amici.it; 5 ), is cheaper and has a garden with views of the sea, as well as a good restaurant, while the Villa Adriana is at the other end of town in Fegina, at Via IV Novembre 23 (T 0187.818.109, W www.villaadriana.info; 5 ), two blocks from the beach, and has parking. As for restaurants, try either Da Andrea, Via Vittorio Emanuele 3 (T 334.395.2045), which has a typically ﬁshy Ligurian menu, or Il Moretto, around the corner at Piazza Colombo 1 (T 0187.817.483), which has more of the same but also branches out into more adventurous territory with swordﬁsh and Tuscan steaks. Vernazza

A few headlands east of Monterosso, VERNAZZA, loveliest of the ﬁve villages, throws a protective arm around the only natural harbour on this rocky coast. The narrow lanes with their tall, colourful houses are typical of the area, and the cramped village is overlooked by stout medieval bastions and a watchtower, built by the Genoese after they’d destroyed the previous castle in 1182 to punish the locals for piracy. The village’s main street, Via Roma, leads down from the station to Piazza Marconi and the small harbour, where the Gothic church of Santa Margherita di Antiochia, with its elegant octagonal campanile, overlooks the small town beach. There are lots of places offering rooms – try Antonio e Ingrid, just off Via Roma at Via Carattino 2 (T 0187.812.183; 2 ), or one of the places on Piazza Marconi: Barbara at no. 30 (T &F 0187.812.398, W www.albergobarbara.it; 1 –3 ) has seven rooms, a couple with great views over the harbour, while the rooms at Gianni Franzi at no. 5 (T 0187.823.1003; 2 –3 ) are variable but some have good views. For food, Gianni Franzi’s restaurant is ﬁne and has a terrace overlooking the harbour, or there’s the cheaper Osteria Il Baretto, Via Roma 31 (T 0187.812.381), which lacks a sea view but has excellent seafood pasta dishes. Corniglia

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CORNIGLIA is the smallest and remotest of the Cinque Terre villages, clinging to a high cliff 90m above the sea, its only access to the water (and the train station) via a long ﬂight of steps. Floral-decorated squares ﬁll the village, and the little Gothic church of San Pietro boasts an exquisite, marble rose window. There are no hotels, but there is a small, no-frills private hostel, the Ostello di Corniglia, Via alla Stazione 3 (T 0187.812.559, W www.ostellocorniglia.com; closed 1–3pm; dorm beds from €24), plenty of places offering rooms, and a handful of unremarkable restaurants. Oddly for a hilltop village, Corniglia stands out for its beach: on the southern side of the village’s rocky promontory is the Spiaggone

di Corniglia, a narrow stretch of pebbles that has relatively easy access from the footpath towards Manarola. Manarola

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MANAROLA is almost as pretty as Vernazza, its pastel-shaded houses either squeezed into a cleft in the cliffs or crowded impossibly up the sides of the prominent headland of dark rock. The station is on the other side of the headland, connected to the main part of the village by a tunnel, from where you can either turn left up the hill, past a small museum devoted to the local white dessert wine, Sciacchetrà, and eventually to the fourteenth-century church of San Lorenzo, or left around the main square down the main street to Manarola’s pretty harbour. You can swim from the rocks or the slipway down into the harbour – the water is lovely – but there’s no beach. Bear in mind also that a lot of people walk from Manarola to Riomaggiore on the paved Via dell’Amore (Lovers’ Path) – a twenty-minute jaunt that’s perhaps the least demanding trail in the national park; the path starts at the train station and you will almost certainly be asked for your Cinque Terre pass (see box, p.130) if you decide to take it. Manarola has a handful of excellent accommodation options, including the family-run Ca’ d’Andrean, just below the church at Via Discovolo 101 (T 0187.920.040, W www.cadandrean.it; 3 ), which takes pride in its service and airy rooms (some with balcony); breakfast is taken in the garden in summer. Down near the harbour, the Marina Piccola, Via Birolli 120 (T 0187.920.103, W www .hotelmarinapiccola.com; closed Nov to mid-Feb; 4 ), has 13 cosy rooms, half of which have sea views. There’s a small hostel, Ostello 5 Terre, Via Riccobaldi 21 (T 0187.920.215, W www.cinqueterre.net/ostello; closed 1–4pm; dorms €23), a clean, friendly place up the hill by the church of San Lorenzo, though you should book well in advance in summer. For eating options, try the restaurant of the Marina Piccola (see above), which offers a raft of reasonably priced ﬁsh dishes and has a terrace right on the harbour, or join the locals a few paces back up the hill at La Scogliera (T 0187.921.029; closed Sun), which serves a ﬁne signature seafood spaghetti on its outside terrace. Riomaggiore

Lively RIOMAGGIORE is the easternmost of the Cinque Terre, and its relatively easy road link to the outside world makes it also the most crowded of the ﬁve. Nonetheless, its vividly multicoloured houses piling up the steep slopes above the romantic little harbour give the place a charm untempered by the café crowds, especially the higher you climb. Like Manarola, the train station is connected to the main part of the village by a tunnel (and to its upper town by a lift), which brings you out at the bottom of the main street. From here you can either go right under the rail track down to the harbour – where you can hire snorkels and kayaks, plus there’s a small stony beach just around the headland to the left – or left up the main street, which is home to the bulk of Riomaggiore’s rooms and restaurants. The only hotel is the pleasantly modern Villa Argentina, in a lovely spot in the upper part of town at Via De Gasperi 170 (T 0187.920.213, W www.villargentina .com; 4 ); they have parking and also rent apartments. Otherwise, there are three spotless simple rooms at the B&B Il Boma, Via C. Colombo 99 (T 0187.920.395, W www.ilboma.com; 2 ). For food, La Lanterna has a good, moderately priced pasta and seafood menu, and a great location at the harbour. Otherwise, try Ripa del Sole, in the upper town at Via De Gasperi 4 (T 0187.920.143; closed Mon),

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which serves unusual specialities such as pasta with rabbit ragù or lobster ravioli at very reasonable prices.

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After the beauty of the Golfo Paradiso and Golfo del Tigullio, and the drama of the Cinque Terre, Liguria still has a ﬁnal ﬂourish. Hard up against the Tuscan border is the majestic Golfo di La Spezia, an impressively sweeping panorama of islands and rough headlands renamed the Golfo dei Poeti in 1919 by Italian playwright Sem Benelli for the succession of romantic souls who fell in love with the place. Petrarch was the ﬁrst; Shelley lived and died on these shores; Byron was another regular; and D.H. Lawrence passed the pre-World War I years here. The town at the head of the gulf is workaday La Spezia, a major naval and shipbuilding centre with a ﬁne art gallery. Small resorts line the fringes of the bay, linked by buses that hug the twisting roads or boats that shuttle across the glittering blue water – Portovénere, sitting astride a spit of land to the southwest, and Lérici, on the southeastern shore, are both highly picturesque stopovers. La Spezia

Most travellers pass by LA SPEZIA or just use it to change trains. Its large mercantile port and the largest naval base in the country aren’t a particular draw for tourists, and the city doesn’t have a great many other tangible attractions. But it’s not a bad place by any means, and in the Museo Amedeo Lia, probably the ﬁnest collection of medieval and Renaissance art in Liguria, it has a genuinely compelling sight. La Spezia’s centre was pretty much rebuilt after World War II, but it’s pleasant enough, with a grid of streets opening out onto seemingly random squares and pockets of interest. Realistically priced hotels and restaurants make it a feasible if not especially picturesque base from which to explore both the Golfo dei Poeti and the Cinque Terre. Arrival, information and accommodation

The train station is a ten-minute walk from the town centre – head left out of the station, cross Piazza S. Bon and follow Via Fiume to Piazza Garibaldi and the pedestrianized artery of Via del Prione, which strikes through the heart of the centre to Via Chiodo and the waterfront. There is a branch of the tourist office on the station forecourt and a larger office at Viale Mazzini 47 (Mon–Sat 10am–1pm & 4–7pm & Sun 10–1pm; T 0187.770.900, W www .turismoprovincia.laspezia.it), while the bus station is on Piazza Chiodo, at the western end of Via Chiodo in front of the naval arsenal, where ATC buses from Tuscany arrive. Buses to Portovénere and Lérici depart either from the

Boats from La Spezia

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Dozens of boats make excursions throughout the summer – and on certain days in winter too – between La Spezia and just about every port along this coast. The most popular line is the one to Portovénere and the Cinque Terre, which leaves La Spezia about six times a day in season, taking 45 minutes to Portovénere and reaching Monterosso in just under two hours. The principal operator is Consorzio Marittimo Turistico “5 Terre–Golfo dei Poeti” at Via Don Minzoni 13, La Spezia (T 0187.732.987, W www.navigazionegolfodeipoeti.it); but you could also try Battellieri del Golfo at Banchina Revel (T 0187.21.010). Tickets cost €7 one-way to Portovénere, €11 to Manarola.

Sandwiched between the hills and the sea, La Spezia proved an early attraction to conquerors, with its strategic importance reﬂected in the number of Genoese castles that stud the hills. These were the town’s ﬁrst fortiﬁcations, yet it took Napoleon to capitalize on what is one of Europe’s ﬁnest natural harbours and construct a naval and military complex at La Spezia early in the nineteenth century. The naval presence made the town a prime target in World War II and most of the centre had to be rebuilt following Allied bombing. It is now a largely pedestrianized grid of streets behind the palm-fringed harbourfront promenade of Viale Mazzini and busy Via Chiodo. At the western end are some lovely public gardens, a short distance from Piazza Chiodo and La Spezia’s raison d’être – the vast naval Arsenale, which was rebuilt after destruction in World War II. There’s no public admittance to the complex itself, but just to the left of the entrance the engaging Museo Tecnico Navale (Tues–Sat 8.30am–1.30pm & 4.30–9.30pm, Sun 9am–8.30pm; €1.55) contains battle relics, nautical models and suchlike. From the public gardens it’s a short stroll inland on Via del Prione to Piazza Beverini and the striped church of Santa Maria Assunta, which houses a polychrome terracotta by Andrea della Robbia, and, just behind, the lively, covered marketplace of Piazza Cavour. Further up Via del Prione, the Museo Amedeo Lia, Via Prione 234 (Tues–Sun 10am–6pm; €6.50), houses paintings and sculpture from the thirteenth to eighteenth centuries in a restored seventeenth-century Franciscan convent. Among the highlights are Pontormo’s sharp-eyed Self-Portrait, a supremely self-assured Portrait of a Gentleman by Titian, and Bellini’s Portrait of an Attorney, as well as bronzes by Giambologna and Ammanati. The museum’s most celebrated item is the Addolorata, a half-statue in polychrome terracotta of a sorrowful Madonna by Benedetto da Maiano.

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The Town

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train station forecourt or from Piazza Cavour. Ferries to the Cinque Terre, Portovénere and Lérici leave from the waterfront Passeggiata Morin, at the far end of Via del Prione. Of La Spezia’s hotels, the Mary, Via Fiume 177 (T 0187.743.254, W www .hotelmary.it; 3 ), is the nicest of those handy for the train station, with bright modern rooms and a restaurant. In the old centre you could try the friendly and good-value Il Sole, Via F. Cavalotti 31 (T 0187.735.164, W www.albergoilsole .com; 3 ), with twelve simple, spacious rooms and a garden, or the city’s branch of the My One Hotel chain, Via XX Settembre 81 (T 0187.738.848, W www.myone hotel.it; 5 ), which couldn’t be more central and has slick, modern, if slightly characterless rooms.

Eating and drinking

La Spezia has no shortage of decent places to eat. La Pia on Via Magenta, just off Via del Prione, does good pizza and farinata to eat in or take away; Trittico, Via Cavalotti 64–66 (T 0187.735.509), also does good pizzas but is more of a proper restaurant, with outside seating and other dishes served throughout the day. Down near the seafront, between Via Chiodo and Viale Mazzini, Da Dino, Via Da Passano 19 (T 0187.736.157; closed Sun dinner & Mon), is a down-to-earth trattoria offering good-value menus of ﬁsh and other local dishes. Portovénere

The ancient, narrow-laned village of PORTOVÉNERE sits astride a spit of land on the very tip of the southwestern arm of the Golfo dei Poeti, blessed with

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breathtaking views, a memorably tranquil atmosphere and a string of three islets just offshore, each smaller and rockier than the last (see box below). Arrival, information and accommodation

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Portovénere’s tourist office, right in the centre of town, just back from the town beach at Piazza Bastreri 7 (daily 10am–noon & 4–8pm; T 0187.790.691, W www.portovenere.it), has a list of B&Bs. Next door is the least expensive and most convenient hotel, the Genio (T 0187.790.611, W www.hotelgenio portovenere.com; 3 ), which has nice if undistinguished rooms and free parking – a boon in Portovénere where parking spaces are at a premium. If the Genio is full, try the Locanda La Lucciola, ﬁve minutes’ walk along the waterfront towards La Spezia at Via dell’Olivo 101 (T 0187.790.145, W www.locandalalucciola .com; 4 ), which has lovely modern and bright rooms with sea views. Among more upscale choices, the pick is the Royal Sporting at Via dell’Olivo 345 (T 0187.790.326, W www.royalsporting.com; 6 ). It has pleasant, cool interior courtyards, spectacular views and a huge saltwater swimming pool, and is close to Portovénere’s shingly beaches. In a different vein, Locanda Lorena offers half a dozen simple rooms on the Isola Palmária, at Via Cavour 4 (T 0187.792.370; April–Sept; 4 ). The Town

The town’s characteristic rose- and yellow-painted tower-houses form a defensive wall along the photogenic harbourfront, Calata Doria, a busy waterside strip lined with cafés and restaurants and known as the Palazzata. Up above, the town’s main street, Via Capellini, runs parallel, and both continue to the end of the promontory to join at the thirteenth-century church of San Pietro, which was built over the ruins of a Roman temple to Venus, goddess of love (hence the town’s name), and occupies a fantastic location overlooking the sea. You can wander in and enjoy the view from the attached loggia, and afterwards head through the gate in the nearby stretch of wall down to the rocky cove of the Grotto Arpaia, a favoured spot of Lord Byron, who swam across the bay from here to visit Shelley at San Terenzo. To this day, the gulf has the nickname of the “Baía di Byron”. Back in the main part of town, steps lead up from Via Capellini to the bare twelfth-century church of San Lorenzo, and above here to the remains of the sixteenth-century Castello Doria (daily 10.30am–1.30pm & 2.30–6.30pm; €2.20), where you can amble around the ramparts enjoying yet more great views. The tiny but clean beach, right in the centre, is good for paddling, though not much else. Otherwise most people swim from the rocks off the Calata Doria, the rocky cove of Grotto Arpaia, or a couple of crowded shingle beaches 1–2km back towards La Spezia.

Boats to the islands Of the three islands that lie south of the peninsula, all but the nearest lie in a military zone and so can only be viewed from the water. Isola Palmária is the largest, just across the water, and regular boats shuttle back and forth for a cost of €2.50 one way, €4 return. Its star attraction is the Grotta Azzurra, which you can reach by boat, and a couple of beaches and places to stay (see above). Next is the Isola del Tino, a rocky islet marked with a lighthouse and the remains of a Romanesque abbey. Finally comes the even tinier Isola del Tinetto, also home to a monastic community in centuries gone by. 136

Eating and drinking

On the other side of La Spezia’s bay there is a string of small resorts, the largest and best known of which is LÉRICI, with its garden villas, seafront bars, trattorias and gift shops. There is one ferry a day from Portovénere to Lérici, at 12.30pm (€10 one way); the other way of getting there is by water taxi (€10 one way, €15 return; minimum €40 per trip). Piazza Garibaldi, behind the marina, acts as the bus station. The tourist office is at Via Petriccioli 82 (Mon–Sat 9am–noon & 4–7pm; T 329.543.5033). At the top of town, the Castello di San Giorgio (Tues–Sun: July & Aug 10.30am–12.30pm & 6.30pm–midnight; mid-Oct to mid-March 10.30am–12.30pm; mid-March to June & Sept to mid-Oct 10.30am–1pm & 2.30–6pm; €5) has fabulous views across to Portovénere and the three islands and back towards La Spezia. Inside, apart from a Gothic chapel, much of the interior is given over to a museum documenting prehistoric dinosaur life in the area. Lérici’s two most pleasant hotels are centrally located: the Shelley & delle Palme at Via Biaggini 5 (T 0187.968.204, W www.hotelshelley.it; 5 ) and the Byron at Via Biaggini 19 (T 0187.967.104, W www.byronhotel.com; 5 ); both have suitably poetic sea views from balconied rooms. When it comes to eating, the outdoor places that line Lérici’s harbour provide an attractive setting as the sun goes down. Try Jeri, Via Mazzini 20, which has great-value €40 ﬁsh and seafood menus.

| Travel details

Lérici

L IGURIA

As for places to eat, the atmospheric, century-old Antica Osteria del Carrugio, right in the heart of the old town at Via Capellini 66 (T 0187.790.617; closed Thurs), has affordable specialities – anchovies, sheep’s cheese and stuffed mussels (which are cultivated on poles in Portovénere’s harbour). At the far end of the waterfront, slick Le Bocche (T 0187.900.622; closed Tues in winter) is famous for its seafood salad, dressed with a pesto of anchovies, capers, pistachios and pine nuts, and has lots of ﬁsh and seafood dishes for €10–15 – not to mention a great location overlooking the channel between Portovénere and Palmária. If all you want is pizza, focaccia or farinata, try La Pizzacia, Via Capellini 94, which is mainly a takeaway but has a few tables on the street outside.

Travel details Trains Genoa to: Alassio (15 daily; 1hr 10min); Albenga (15 daily; 1hr–1hr 40min); Bologna (4 daily; 3–4hr); Camogli (every 20–30min; 30min); Finale Ligure (15 daily; 45min–1hr 40min); Imperia (10 daily; 1hr 30min–2hr); La Spezia (hourly; 1hr 10min–1hr 40min); Milan (hourly; 1hr–1hr 30min); Pisa (14 daily; 2–2hr 30min); Rapallo (every 20min; 30min); Rome (every 1–2hr; 5–6hr); San Remo (hourly; 1hr 45min–2hr 40min); Santa Margherita (every 20min; 20min–1hr); Ventimiglia (12 daily; 2hr).

Buses Finale Ligure to: Borghetto Santo Spirito (every 15min; 30min). La Spezia to: Lérici (every 10min; 20min); Portovénere (every 30min; 20min). Rapallo to: Santa Margherita (every 20min; 10min). Santa Margherita to: Portoﬁno (every 15–20min; 15min). Ventimiglia to: Dolceacqua (14 daily; 18min). 137

Ferries See W www.moby.it, www.gnv.it and www.tirrenia .it for up-to-date schedules. Genoa to: Arbatax, Sardinia (2 weekly; 9hr); Bastia, Corsica (7 weekly; 4hr 45min); Olbia, Sardinia

L IGURIA

| Travel details 138

(7 weekly; 10–13hr); Palermo, Sicily (7 weekly; 20hr); Porto Torres, Sardinia (6–9 weekly; 9–11hr); Barcelona (3 weekly; 18hr).

3 L OMBARDY AND THE L AKE S

Lombardy and the Lakes 4 3

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✱

✱

| Highlights

✱

✱

Highlights

Tortelli alla zucca Tuck into a plate of delicious pumpkin ravioli topped with sage butter. See p.143 Roof of Milan’s Duomo Wander around the roof of the world’s largest Gothic cathedral with the best views of the city and the mountains beyond. See p.153 The Last Supper Leonardo da Vinci’s mural for the refectory wall of Santa Maria delle Grazie is one of the world’s most resonant images. See p.160

and design capital of the world. See p.166

✱

Certosa di Pavia This Carthusian monastery is a fantastic construction rising out of the rice ﬁelds near Pavia. See p.170

✱

Cycling round Mantua Rent a bike and explore elegant Mantua and the surrounding waterways. See p.173

✱

Lake Como Explore the most romantic of the Lakes by ferry. See p.186

✱

Città Alta, Bergamo Bergamo’s medieval upper town is an enchanting spot to spend an evening. See p.197

Shopping in Milan Steel yourself for the ultimate shopping trip in the fashion

140

Shops in the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele, Milan

3

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|

ombardy, Italy’s richest region, often seems to have more in common with its northern European neighbours than with the rest of Italy. Given its history, this is hardly surprising: it was ruled for almost two centuries by the French and Austrians and takes its name from the northern Lombards, who ousted the Romans. As a border region, Lombardy has always been vulnerable to invasion, just as it has always proﬁted by being a commercial crossroads. Emperors from Charlemagne to Napoleon came to Lombardy to be crowned king – and big business continues to take Lombardy’s capital, Milan, more seriously than Rome. The region’s people, ranging from Milanese workaholics to cosseted provincial urbanites, hardly ﬁt the popular image of Italians – and, in truth, they have little time for most of their compatriots. This has fuelled the rise of the Lega Nord, a political party nominally demanding independence from Rome and successfully exploiting the popular sentiment that northern taxes sustain the inefficient, workshy south. Sadly all this economic success has taken its toll on the landscape: industry chokes the peripheries of towns, sprawls across the Po plain and even spreads its polluting tentacles into the Alpine valleys. Traffic, too, is bad, with many roads – autostradas and lakeside lanes alike – gridlocked at peak times. Nonetheless, Lombardy’s towns and cities retain medieval cores boasting world-class art and architecture, and the stunning scenery of the so-called Italian Lakes – notably lakes Maggiore, Como and Garda – never fails to seduce. Milan’s lowland neighbours – Pavia, Cremona, Mantua – ﬂourished during the Middle Ages and Renaissance and retain much character. To the north, Lombardy is quite different, the lakes and valleys sheltering fewer historic towns, the cities of Bergamo and Brescia excepted. Reaching into the high Alps, lakes Maggiore, Como, Garda and their lesser-celebrated siblings have long been popular tourist territory with both Italians and foreigners. Although the western shore of Lake Maggiore and the northern and eastern shores of Lake Garda fall outside Lombardy (in Piemonte, Trentino and Veneto respectively), the Lakes region and its resorts are all covered in this chapter.

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Some history

| Milan

Milan ﬁrst stepped into the historical limelight in 313 AD when Emperor Constantine issued the Edict of Milan, granting Christians throughout the Roman Empire the freedom to worship for the ﬁrst time. The city, under its

L OMBARDY AND THE L AKE S

The dynamo behind the country’s “economic miracle” in the 1950s, MILAN is an Italian city like no other. It’s foggy in winter, muggy and mosquito-ridden in summer, and is closer in outlook, as well as distance, to London than to Palermo. This is no city of peeling palazzi, cobbled piazzas and la dolce vita, but one where consumerism and the work ethic rule the lives of its well-dressed citizens. Because of this most visitors pass straight through, and if it’s summer and you’re keen for sun and sea this might well be the best thing you can do; the weather, in July and August especially, can be off-puttingly humid. But at any other time of year it’s well worth giving Milan more of a chance. It’s a historic city, with a spectacular cathedral and enough ancient churches and galleries to keep you busy for a week, but there are also bars and cafés to relax in, and the contemporary aspects of the place represent the cutting edge of Italy’s fashion and design industry.

Regional food and wine Lombardy is distinctive in its variations in culinary habits. For example, the sophisticated recipes of the Milanese contrast sharply with the more rustic dishes of the Alpine foothills and lakes. The latter are sometimes known as piatti poveri (poor food): devised over centuries, these employ imagination and often time-consuming techniques to make up for the lack of expensive ingredients. Pizzocheri, buckwheat noodles from the Valtellina valley, are a good example of this. Risotto alla Milanese, on the other hand, golden yellow with saffron, is Milan’s most renowned culinary invention – and, it is said, only truly Milanese if cooked with the juices of roast veal ﬂavoured with sage and rosemary. Ossobuco (shin of veal) is another Milanese favourite, as is panettone, the soft, eggy cake with sultanas eaten at Christmas time. The short-grain rice used for risotto is grown in the paddy ﬁelds of the Ticino and Po valleys; other staples include green pasta and polenta. The latter – made from maize meal which is boiled and patiently stirred for around forty minutes, all the time watched with an eagle eye so it doesn’t go lumpy – is found all over northern Italy. It can be eaten straightaway, or else left to cool and then sliced and grilled and served as an accompaniment to meat. From Cremona comes mostarda di frutta (pickled fruit with mustard), the traditional condiment to serve with bollito misto (boiled meats). Stuffed pastas – for example, around the Po valley, ravioli ﬁlled with pumpkin – and veal eaten hot or cold in dishes like vitello tonnato (thin slices of cold veal covered with tuna mayonnaise) are also popular, as are wild funghi (mushrooms). Lombardy is also one of the largest cheese-making regions in the country. As well as Gorgonzola there are numerous other local cheeses: among the best known are parmesan-like Grana Padano, smooth, creamy Mascarpone (used in sweet dishes) and the tangy, soft Taleggio. Although Lombardy is not renowned internationally for its wines, supermarket shelves bulge with decent reds from the Oltrepò Pavese, and “Inferno” from the northern areas of Valtellina; while around Brescia, the Franciacorta area has earned plaudits for its excellent sparkling whites.

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| Milan: Arrival

charismatic bishop, Ambrogio (Ambrose), swiftly became a major centre of Christianity; many of today’s churches stand on the sites, or even retain parts, of fourth-century predecessors. Medieval Milan rose to prominence under the Visconti dynasty, who founded the ﬂorid late-Gothic Duomo, and built the nucleus of the Castello – which, under their successors, the Sforza, was extended to house what became one of the most luxurious courts of the Renaissance. The last Sforza, Lodovico, commissioned Leonardo da Vinci in 1495 to paint The Last Supper. Milan fell to the French in 1499, marking the beginning of almost four centuries of foreign rule, which included the Spanish, Napoleon and the Austrian Habsburgs. Mussolini made his mark on the city, too: arrive by train and you emerge into the massive white Stazione Centrale, built on the dictator’s orders. And it was on the innocuous roundabout of Piazzale Loreto that the dictator’s corpse was strung up for display in April 1945 as proof of his demise. Milan’s postwar development was characterized by the boom periods of the 1950s and 1980s: the city’s wealth now comes from banking and its position at the top of the world’s fashion and design industries. Politically, too, Milan has been key to Italy’s postwar history. A bomb in Piazza Fontana in 1969 that killed sixteen people signalled the beginning of the dark and bloody period known as the Anni di piombo, when secret-service machinations led to over a hundred deaths from bomb attacks. In the 1980s, corruption and political scandal once again focused attention on Milan, which gained the nickname Tangentopoli (“Bribesville”). The subsequent political reordering paved the way for Forza Italia, a political party founded by the self-promoting media magnate Silvio Berlusconi – Milan born and bred, he owns the football club AC Milan and has his power base in the city’s media conglomerates, as well as being Italy’s longest serving prime minister since World War II.

Arrival

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Milan has two main airports – Malpensa and Linate – both used by domestic and international traffic. It is also within easy reach of several smaller airports: Bergamo-Orio al Serio (see p.195) is the best connected and the most convenient, while Verona-Brescia (see p.200) is a couple of hours’ drive away. Malpensa (T 02.232.323, W www.sea-aeroportimilano.it), 50km northwest near Lake Maggiore, is connected with Stazione Centrale, Milan’s main train station, by direct bus (every 20min 4.25am–11.15pm; 1hr; €7.50), and with Milano Nord station by a fast train, the Malpensa Express (every 30min 4.20am–11.25pm; 50min; T 199.151.152, W www.malpensaexpress.it; early-morning and evening services are replaced by a bus from Via Leopardi, just to the left of the station as you face it; €12 if bought beforehand, more if purchased on the train). Both destinations are on the city’s metro system: Stazione Centrale is termed “Centrale F.S.” and Milano Nord is “Cadorna”. A taxi from Malpensa to the centre takes about forty minutes and costs around €80 when the traffic is not too heavy. Buses also link Malpensa’s Terminal 1 to towns on nearby Lake Maggiore, including Stresa and Verbania (5 daily; reserve 48hr ahead on T 0323.552.172, W www.safduemila.com; €11; buy tickets at the Airport 2000 desk or on board). Gallarate train station, 5km from Malpensa airport by regular local buses, has trains to Stresa and Verbania, as well as Varese. Milan’s second airport, Linate (T 02.232.323, W www.sea-aeroportimilano.it), is 7km east of the city centre: airport buses connect it with the Piazza Luigi di

Savoia, on the east side of Stazione Centrale (every 20min 5.40am–9.30pm; 20min; €2, buy ticket on board). ATM city bus #73 runs from Linate (every 10min 5.30am–midnight; 25min) to the central Piazza San Babila (metro line M1) on Corso Europa; tickets cost the standard €1 and should be bought from the airport newsagent, or (with coins) from the ticket machine at the bus stop. A taxi to the centre will cost around €30. There’s also a twice-daily bus service between Linate and Malpensa (1hr 15min).

Information Milan has two tourist offices, plus smaller branches at Malpensa and Linate airports (daily 9am–4pm). The main city-centre office is at Piazza del Duomo 19/A, on the north side of the square, underground (Mon–Sat 8.45am–1pm & 2–6pm, Sun 9am–1pm & 2–5pm; T 02.7740.4343, W www.visitamilano.it). There’s another, smaller office in Stazione Centrale (Mon–Sat 9am–6pm, Sun 9am–1pm & 2–5pm; T 02.7740.4318), though at the time of writing its future location was unclear due to refurbishment works.

| Milan: Information • City transport

Most international and domestic trains pull in at the monumental Stazione Centrale, northeast of the city centre on Piazza Duca d’Aosta, at the hub of the metro network on lines M2 and M3. Other trains, especially those from stations in the Milan region – Bergamo, Pavia, Como and the western lakes – sometimes terminate at smaller stations around the city: Porta Garibaldi, Lambrate, Porta Genova or Milano Nord, all on M2, though some continue to Stazione Centrale. All international and long-distance buses, and many regional buses, arrive at the bus station in front of the Porta Garibaldi train station (M2), where you can get information and buy tickets from the Autostradale/Eurolines bus office (T 02.3391.0794; Mon–Fri 9am–6.30pm). If you’re arriving by car, try to avoid the morning and evening rush hours (approximately 7.30–10am & 4.30–7pm) when Milan’s outer ring road, the infamous Tangenziale, is often gridlocked. Signage is copious, if not always clear. The Tangenziale links to the autostradas for Bergamo, Brescia, Lake Garda and on to Venice (A4 east), Turin (A4 west), Varese and Lake Maggiore (A8), Lake Como (A9), Genoa (A7) and Bologna and the south (the A1 “Autostrada del Sole”). See p.149 for information on the Ecopass, Milan’s congestion charge and advice on parking in the city.

L OMBARDY AND THE L AKE S

By rail and road

City transport Milan’s street-plan resembles a spider’s web, with roads radiating out from the central pedestrianized Piazza del Duomo. The city centre is, however, fairly compact, and most of what you’ll want to see is within the ﬁrst or second rings, each of them marking ancient city boundaries.

Public transport The four lines of the metro – M1 (red), M2 (green), M3 (yellow) and passante ferroviario (blue) – connect at the four main hubs of Stazione Centrale, Duomo, Cadorna and Loreto (see map, p.148). It’s also worth getting to grips with

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| Milan: City transport

the well-organized bus and tram system. Most stops display the route and direction, and as tickets for all three forms of transport are integrated you can hop on and off at will. Buses, trams and the metro run from around 6am to midnight, after which nightbuses take over, following the metro routes until 1am. For public transport enquiries (daily 7.45am–7.15pm; W www.atm-mi .it), the information offices at Duomo or Stazione Centrale metro stations have helpful, English-speaking staff. Tickets, valid for 75 minutes, cost €1 and can be used for one metro trip and unlimited bus and tram rides. They are on sale at tobacconists, bars and at metro station newsagents; most outlets close at 8pm so it’s best to buy a few tickets in advance, or a carnet of ten for €9.20. You can also buy a one-day (€3) or two-day pass (€5.50) at Stazione Centrale or Duomo metro stations. Remember to stamp your ticket when you enter the metro and board buses and trams, as inspections are common.

Bicycles Milan is a great city to explore on two wheels – much of the centre is pedestrianized or with one-way traffic; the only real worries are the uneven cobbles and the tram tracks. The easy-to-use, well-organized bike-sharing initiative, BikeMi, gives you economic use of the city centre’s ﬂeet of bikes, located strategically by metro stations and main sights. The simple signing-up procedure is online, by phone or at ATM offices (in Duomo, Stazione Centrale, Cadorna or Garibaldi metro stations). There’s a registration fee of €2.50, payable by credit card only, for daily or weekly rental (maximum 2hr at a time; €0.50/30min).

Tours and taxis

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A hop-on, hop-off bus tour (W www.milano.city-sightseeing.it), with recorded English commentary, has two different routes departing from Piazza Castello (daily every 30min 9.30am–5.45pm; €20), while walking tours are arranged from the main tourist office. Taxis don’t cruise the streets, so don’t bother trying to ﬂag one down. Either head for a taxi rank – on Piazza del Duomo, Largo Cairoli, Piazza San Babila and Stazione Centrale, among others – or phone (see p.168 for numbers).

Driving and parking

Accommodation

Hotels and B&Bs Antica Locanda dei Mercanti Via San Tomaso 6 T 02.805.4080, Wwww.locanda.it. Tucked away between the Duomo and the castle, this quietly elegant locanda offers individually decorated rooms; two even have their own roof terraces. Breakfast (not included) is served in the rooms. The Alle Meraviglie (Wwww.allemeraviglie.it), next door at no. 8, is run by the same people, with similarly bright, tasteful rooms. 5 –6 Antica Locanda Leonardo Corso Magenta 78 T 02.4801.4197, W www.anticalocandaleonardo .com. This discreet three-star is just steps away from The Last Supper and has light and airy rooms, some overlooking a pretty internal garden. Also convenient for the Malpensa Express and trains from Milano Nord. 5 –6 Ariston Largo Carrobbio 2 T 02.7200.0556, W www.aristonhotel.com. The best thing about this pleasant modern hotel is its position – within walking distance of the Duomo and the

Navigli – and the free bicycles. Rooms are a little cramped but all are en suite and a decent breakfast is included. 3 Bulgari Via Fratelli Gabba 7/B T02.058.051, Wwww.bulgarihotels.com. In a hidden corner of Brera, the city’s top hotel has all the Milanese style you could wish for and none of the attitude you might expect. Staff are charming, facilities impeccable and the terrace bar and garden are an absolute treat. Rooms start at around €450 per night depending on special offers. 9 Cavour Via Fatebenefratelli 21 T02.620.001, Wwww.hotelcavour.it. A business-oriented hotel in a great position between the Giardini Pubblici and the Quadrilatero d’Oro. Service is well judged and the comfortable, soundproof rooms (including a thoughtful hypoallergenic option) are good value. 5 Euro Via Sirtori 24 T02.3040.4010, Wwww .eurohotelmilano.it. Very good value a/c rooms with parquet ﬂoors are offered in this well-located hotel. There's also a small gym, a patio for alfresco

| Milan: Accommodation

Much of Milan’s accommodation is geared towards business travellers: rooms can be characterless, prices tend to be high and hotels are often booked up year-round. You’d be wise to reserve well ahead. The area around Stazione Centrale and across to Corso Buenos Aires is home to a good proportion of the city’s cheaper hotels, and although many cater to the area’s considerable red-light trade, you will be ﬁne at any of the places we recommend. As you go towards the centre, prices rise but there are still good deals to be had in some of the side streets off the city’s main thoroughfares. As many of Milan’s mid-range hotels are rather dingy you may want to look into bed-and-breakfast accommodation; we have listed the best options below. Check W www.bed-and-breakfast.it for further ideas. English-speaking Friendly Rentals (T 0800.520.0373, W www.friendlyrentals.com) has a good selection of stylish apartments to rent (from three nights) throughout the city, which can make a fun, economical alternative for families or groups.

L OMBARDY AND THE L AKE S

Driving in the city is best avoided: the streets are congested and parking nigh on impossible. If you do drive, you need to know that the Ecopass – an initiative to cut pollution and congestion – is in force in the city centre (Mon–Fri 7am–7pm). You must buy the pass on the day of entry or up to midnight of the day afterwards; the fee is worked out on a sliding scale depending on your engine type. Payments can be made at authorized newsagents and tobacconists, through Intesa-SanPaolo ATMs, or, in English, by freephone (Mon–Sat 7am–8pm; T 800.437.437) or online (W www.comune.milano.it/ecopass). If your hotel is within the Ecopass area, ask reception if they have any special provision for guests. For parking you’re safest heading for a car park, which should cost around €2.50 per hour. Central options include Autosilo Diaz, Piazza Diaz 6 ( just south of Piazza del Duomo), and Garage Traversi, on Via Bagutta near Piazza San Babila.

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| Milan

150 L F E R IN V IA S O VIA N GO

PIAVE VIALE CALDARA VIA MONTE NERO

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the weekend offers can be worthwhile, and the contemporary feel is streets away from Milan's usual unimaginative offerings. 4 Rovello Via Rovello 18 T02.8646.4654, Wwww .hotel-rovello.it. Close to Castello Sforzesco, the spacious en-suite rooms at this well-located hotel have a/c. You’re paying for the location, but rates may be negotiable in summer. Breakfast included. 4 Valley Via Soperga 19 T02.669.2777, Wwww .hotelvalley.it. A two-minute walk north of Stazione Centrale, this basic little spot is ideal if you’re catching an early train or arriving late at night. Most rooms are en suite and those at the back are pleasant and airy. 2

Hostels

| Milan: The City

La Cordata Via Burigozzo 11, off Corso Italia T02.5831.4675, W www.ostellolacordata.com. Clean and basic in a very good central location, this is Milan’s best hostel option by far. Bunks are in single-sex 6-, 10- or 16-bed dorms, each dorm with its own shower room; spacious twin rooms also available. There’s a large kitchen and communal room too. Metro Missori, or 4 stops on tram #15 from Piazza Fontana. Dorms €22, rooms 2 Ostello Piero Rotta Viale Salmoiraghi 1, corner Via Martino Bassi T 02.3926.7095, Wwww.hostel milan.org. An institutional-feeling HI hostel out in the insalubrious northwestern suburbs near the San Siro football stadium. Metro line 1 to QT8, then walk 200m straight ahead and the hostel is on your right. €19 including breakfast.

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breakfast and cheaper – but still pleasant – rooms available. 3 Foresteria Monforte Piazza Tricolore 2 T 340.237.0272, W www.foresteria monforte.it. These lovingly styled contemporary rooms and one suite are bright and airy as well as being beautifully kept and discreetly run. 5 Kennedy Viale Tunisia 6, 6th ﬂoor T 02.2940.0934, W www.kennedyhotel.it. A well-organized, friendly one-star with bright, simple rooms, some of which are en suite. Some rooms even have their own balconies overlooking the rooftops. 2 La Dolce Vite Via Cola de Rienzo 39 T 347.686.3144, W www.ladolcevite.net. A leafy home to the south of the centre offering three bright en-suite rooms and a lovely little garden, offering a true respite from the city. 3 London Via Rovello 3 T 02.7202.0166, W www.hotellondonmilano.com. A pleasant, family-run hotel in a good, central position. There’s a choice of singles and doubles with or without en-suite shower; the decor is unexciting but all rooms have a/c. 4 Mercure Milano Porta Venezia 1 T02.2940.0937, W www.mercure.com. One of the several branches of this French chain in the city, offering pleasant, comfortable rooms in a convenient location right on Porta Venezia. 6 Nhow Via Tortona 35 T02.489.8861, Wwww .nhow-hotels.com. This airy design-fest in the up-and-coming Porta Genova district is aimed at those coming to town on (fashion) business but

The City The obvious focal point of central Milan is Piazza del Duomo, which, as well as being home to the city’s iconic Duomo, leads on to the elegant Galleria Vittorio Emanuele and Piazza della Scala, home to the world-famous opera house. Heading northwest from Piazza del Duomo along the shopping street of Via Dante takes you to the imperious Castello Sforzesco and the extensive Parco Sempione beyond. North, the well-heeled neighbourhoods of Brera and Moscova are the haunt of Milan’s most style-conscious citizens. Here you’ll ﬁnd the ﬁne art collection of the Pinacoteca di Brera and, nearby, the so-called Quadrilatero d’Oro (Golden Quadrangle), a concentration of top designer fashion boutiques. Slightly further north is Milan’s most pleasant park, the Giardini Pubblici. Southwest of the Duomo, the shopping streets of Via Torino take you to the Ticinese district, a focal point at aperitivo time, and home to a couple of the city’s most beautiful ancient churches. Continuing south to the Navigli leads to the bar and restaurant area around the city’s remaining canals. West of the cathedral, the Museo Archeologico gives a taste of Roman Milan, while the basilica of Milan’s Christian father, Sant’Ambrogio, is a couple of blocks away. A little further west stands the church of Santa Maria delle Grazie and the adjacent refectory building, holding Leonardo da Vinci’s The Last Supper.

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Piazza del Duomo and around

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The hub of the city is Piazza del Duomo, a large, mostly pedestrianized square that’s rarely quiet at any time of day, lorded over by the exaggerated spires of the Duomo, Milan’s cathedral. The piazza was given its present form in 1860 when medieval buildings were demolished to allow grander, unobstructed views of the cathedral, and the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II was constructed to link the piazza with the showy new opera theatre, La Scala. South of the piazza there are several minor gems hidden among the shops and offices in the shape of the tiny church of Santa Maria presso San Satiro and the seventeenth-century Pinacoteca Ambrosiana. The Duomo

Milan’s vast Duomo was begun in 1386 under the Viscontis, but not completed until the ﬁnishing touches to the facade were added in 1813. It is characterized by a hotchpotch of styles that range from Gothic to Neoclassical. From the outside at least it’s incredible, notable as much for its strange confection of Baroque and Gothic decoration as its sheer size. The marble, chosen by the Viscontis in preference to the usual material of brick, was brought on specially built canals from the quarries of Candoglia, near Lake Maggiore, and continues to be used in renovation today. The interior

The interior is striking for its dimension and atmosphere. The ﬁve aisles are separated by 52 towering piers, while an almost subterranean half-light ﬁlters through the stained-glass windows, lending the marble columns a bone-like hue that led the French writer Suarés to compare the interior to “the hollow of a colossal beast”. By the entrance, the narrow brass strip embedded in the pavement with the signs of the zodiac alongside is Europe’s largest sundial, laid out in 1786. A beam of light still falls on it through a hole in the ceiling, though changes in the Earth’s axis mean that it’s no longer accurate. To the left of the entrance you’ll ﬁnd the remains of a fourth-century Battistero Paleocristiano (daily 9.30am–5.15pm; €2), where the city’s patron saint, Ambrogio, baptized St Augustine in 387 AD. At the far end of the church, the large cruciﬁx suspended high above the chancel contains the most important of the Duomo’s holy relics – a nail from Christ’s cross, which was also crafted into the bit for the bridle of Emperor Constantine’s horse. The cross is lowered once a year, on September 14, the Feast of the Cross, by a device invented by Leonardo da Vinci. Close by, beneath the presbytery, is the Scurolo di San Carlo (daily 9am–noon & 2.30–6pm; €1), a crypt housing the remains of San Carlo Borromeo, the zealous sixteenth-century cardinal who was canonized for his work among the poor of the city, especially during the Plague of 1630. He lies here in a glass coffin, clothed, bejewelled, masked and gloved, wearing a gold crown attributed to Cellini. Borromeo was also responsible for the large altar in the north transept, erected to close off a door that was used by locals as a shortcut to the market. Adjacent to Borromeo’s resting place, the treasury (€3) features extravagant silverwork, Byzantine ivory carvings and heavily embroidered vestments. Here, too, is the Duomo’s most surprising exhibit: British artist Mark Wallinger’s haunting video installation Via Dolorosa. Commissioned by the diocese of Milan in a bold attempt to resurrect the role of the Church as a patron of the arts, it comprises a large screen showing the last eighteen minutes of Zeffirelli’s Jesus of Nazareth, with 90 percent of the image blacked out, leaving just a narrow frame visible round the sides. To the right of the chancel, by the door to the Palazzo Reale, the sixteenthcentury statue of St Bartholomew, with his ﬂayed skin thrown like a toga over his shoulder, is one of the church’s more gruesome statues, its veins, muscles and bones sculpted with anatomical accuracy and the draped skin retaining the form of knee, foot, toes and toenails.

The roof

Outside again, from the northwest end of the cathedral you can get to the cathedral roof (daily: mid-Feb to mid-Nov 9am–5.45pm; rest of year 9am–4.15pm; €5, or €7 with lift), where you can stroll around the forest of tracery, pinnacles and statues while enjoying ﬁne views of the city and, on clear days, even the Alps. The highlight is the central spire, its lacy marble crowned by a gilded statue of the Madonna – the Madonnina, the city’s guardian – in summer looking out over the rooftop sunbathers. The charming little church of Santa Maria presso San Satiro (daily 8–11am & 3.30–6.30pm), off the busy shopping street of Via Torino, is a study in ingenuity, designed by Milan’s foremost Renaissance architect, Bramante, in 1478. Originally the oratory of the adjacent ninth-century church of San Satiro, it was transformed by Bramante into a long-naved basilica, by converting the long oblong oratory into the transept and adding a wonderful trompe l’oeil apse to the back wall. Pinacoteca Ambrosiana

| Milan: The City

Five minutes west, just off Via Torino at Piazza Pio 2, the Pinacoteca Ambrosiana (Tues–Sun 9am–7pm; €15; W www.ambrosiana.it) was founded in the early seventeenth century by Cardinal Federico Borromeo, who assembled one of the largest libraries in Europe (Mon–Fri 9.30am–5pm). The main draw though is his art collection, stamped with his taste for Jan Brueghel, sixteenthcentury Venetians and some of the more kitsch followers of Leonardo. Among many mediocre works, there is a rare painting by Leonardo da Vinci, Portrait of a Musician, a cartoon by Raphael for the School of Athens, and a Caravaggio considered to be Italy’s ﬁrst still life. The prize for the quirkiest exhibit is shared between a pair of white gloves that Napoleon reputedly wore at Waterloo, and a lock of Lucrezia Borgia’s hair – displayed for safe-keeping in a glass phial ever since Byron (having decided that her hair was the most beautiful he had ever seen) extracted a strand as a keepsake from the library downstairs, where it used to be kept unprotected.

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Santa Maria presso San Satiro

Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II

Leading off to the north of Piazza del Duomo is the gaudily opulent Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, a cruciform glass-domed gallery designed in 1865 by Giuseppe Mengoni, who was killed when he fell from the roof a few days before the inaugural ceremony. The circular mosaic beneath the glass cupola is composed of the symbols that made up the cities of the newly uniﬁed Italy: Romulus and Remus for Rome, a ﬂeur-de-lys for Florence, a white shield with a red cross for Milan and a bull for Turin – it’s considered good luck to spin round three times on the bull’s testicles, hence the indentation in the ﬂoor. The galleria was designed as a covered walkway between the Piazza del Duomo and Piazza della Scala to the north; nicknamed the “salotto” – or drawing room – of Milan, it used to be the focal point for the parading Milanese on their passeggiata. These days, visitors rather than locals are more likely to swallow the extortionate prices at the gallery’s cafés, which include the historic Zucca, with its glorious 1920s tiled interior at one end, and the newer, stylish Gucci Café – the label’s ﬁrst foray into catering – at the other. Shops, too, are aimed at visitors to the city, with top designer labels sitting next to pricey souvenir outlets. Somehow, however, the galleria still manages to retain most of its original dignity, helped along by quietly elegant boutiques selling handmade leather gloves or carefully turned hats, and the handsome eighty-year-old Prada shop in the centre.

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La Scala

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| Milan: The City

The main branch of Galleria Vittorio Emanuele leads through to Piazza della Scala, fronted by the rather plain Neoclassical facade of the world-famous Teatro alla Scala opera house, popularly known as La Scala (W www.teatroallascala .org). The theatre was commissioned by Empress Maria Theresa of Austria from the architect Piermarini and opened in 1778 with the opera Europa Riconsciuta by Antonio Salieri. Many of the leading names in Italian opera had their major works premiered here, including Bellini, Donizetti and Rossini, but it is Giuseppe Verdi who is most closely associated with the opera house and whose fame was consolidated here in 1842 with the ﬁrst performance of Nabucco, with its perfectly timed patriotic sentiments. The post-World War II period saw another breathtaking roll call of top composers and musical performers – among them Schoenberg, Lucio Berio, Rudolf Nureyev and Maria Callas – while Toscanini, perhaps the most inﬂuential conductor of all time, devoted more than ﬁfty years to the theatre. These days, however, La Scala is a bit at sea: no quality Italian composers have emerged for over eighty years, the theatre is plagued by internal political problems and the repertoire has become a touch predictable. To a great extent, the opera house is still the social and cultural centre of Milan’s elite and although protests in the 1960s led to a more open official policy on the arts in Milan, unusually for opera-going in Italy it remains as exclusive a venue as it ever was. Every year on the opening night – December 7, the festival of Milan’s patron saint, Sant’Ambrogio – when fur coats and dinner jackets are out in force, it is the target for demonstrations from political and social groups, ranging from animal rights’ campaigners to local factory workers complaining about redundancies. Tickets can be hard to come by, but if you want to experience one of the world’s most famous opera houses in action, there are numerous avenues; see p.165 for ticket information. Tucked in one corner of the theatre, a small museum (daily 9am–12.30pm & 1.30–5pm; €5) features costumes, sets, composers’ death masks, plaster casts of conductors’ hands and a rugged statue of Puccini in a capacious overcoat. A visit to the auditorium is included in the ticket, providing there is no rehearsal taking place; times when the auditorium is empty are listed daily outside the entrance to the museum.

The Castello Sforzesco and around

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Northwest out of Piazza Duomo, at the start of Via Dante, lies Piazza dei Mercanti, the commercial centre of medieval Milan. The square is dominated by the thirteenth-century Palazzo della Ragione, where council meetings and tribunals were held on the upper ﬂoor, with markets under the porticoes below. The stone relief on the facade above the arcade shows the rather forlorn-looking Oldrado di Tressano, the mayor who commissioned the building in 1228, astride his horse. Opposite, the striped black-and-white marble Loggia degli Orsi, built in 1316, was where council proclamations were made and sentences announced. The coats of arms of the various districts of Milan are just about visible beneath the grime left by Milanese smog. At the far end of the pedestrianized Via Dante, the Castello Sforzesco rises imperiously from Foro Buonaparte, a road laid out by Napoleon in self-tribute. He had a vision of a grand new centre for the Italian capital, designed along Roman lines, but he only got as far as constructing an arena, a triumphal arch and these two semicircular roads before he lost Milan to the Austrians. The arena and triumphal arch still stand half-forgotten behind the castle on the edges of the Parco Sempione, the city centre’s largest patch of green and once the castle’s garden and hunting grounds.

The Castello Sforzesco

The ticket office (Tues–Sun 9am–5.30pm; combined ticket €3), on your right as you enter the Corte Ducale, gives access to the Museo d’Arte Antica, a succession of rooms containing an extensive collection of ancient artefacts saved from the city’s churches and archeological excavations. More interesting, however, are the castle rooms themselves, especially the Sala delle Asse, designed by Leonardo da Vinci; his black-and-white preparatory sketches were discovered in the 1950s. After some rather dull armoury you reach the museum’s star exhibit: Michelangelo’s Rondanini Pietà, which the artist worked on for the last nine years of his life. It’s an unﬁnished but oddly powerful work; much of the marble is unpolished and a third arm, indicating a change of position for Christ’s body, hangs limply from a block of stone to his right. Upstairs, the Museo delle Arti Decorative exhibits furniture and decorative arts through the ages, including fascinating early works by the great twentieth-century Milanese designer, Gio Ponte. The Torre Falconiere (Falconry Tower) next door holds the castle’s art collection containing numerous paintings by Lombard artists such as Foppa and Bramantino, as well as minor Venetian works, including some Canalettos. The best are all grouped together in Room XIII and include Antonello da Messina’s St Benedict, originally part of a ﬁve-piece polyptych, of which two panels are in the Uffizi in Florence. Across the courtyard, in the castle cellars, are the smaller Egyptian collection, with displays of mummies, sarcophagi and papyrus fragments from The Book of the Dead, and the deftly lit prehistoric collection – an assortment of ﬁnds from the Iron Age burial grounds of the Golasecca civilization.

| Milan: The City

The museums

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With its crenellated towers and fortiﬁed walls, the red-brick Castello Sforzesco (W www.milanocastello.it) is one of Milan’s most striking landmarks. The result of numerous rebuildings, it was begun by the Viscontis, destroyed by mobs rebelling against their regime in 1447, and rebuilt by their successors, the Sforzas. Under Lodovico Sforza the court became one of the most powerful, luxurious and cultured of the Renaissance, renowned for its ostentatious wealth and court artists like Leonardo and Bramante. Lodovico’s days of glory came to an end when Milan was invaded by the French in 1499, and from then until the end of the nineteenth century the castle was used as a barracks by successive occupying armies. Just over a century ago it was converted into a series of museums. Ongoing restoration means that parts of the complex may be closed when you visit. The castello’s buildings are grouped around three courtyards: through the Filarete Tower (rebuilt in 1905, having been destroyed in the sixteenth century by an explosion of gunpowder) you enter the larger of the three, the dustylooking parade ground. It’s not until you’re through the gateway opposite that you begin to sense a Renaissance castle: this is the Corte Ducale, which formed the centre of the residential quarters and is now the home of the castle’s museums. The Rocchetta, to your left, was the most secure part of the fortress and is now used for temporary exhibitions. The gateway ahead leads to the Parco Sempione.

The Parco Sempione

The Parco Sempione can make a refreshing break from the city’s traffic-choked roads, but it does have its sleazy side and you might feel more comfortable visiting when the locals do – at the weekend, or early evening in summer. That said, there are several sights within the park itself, the most interesting of which is the Palazzo dell’Arte or Triennale (Tues, Wed, Sat & Sun 10.30am–8.30pm, Thurs & Fri 10.30am–11pm; exhibitions €8; W www.triennale.it), on the western reaches,

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at Viale Emilio Alemagna 6. The soaring lines of the building and its light, airy interior are reason enough for a visit, but the palazzo also holds good-quality temporary exhibitions of design, architecture and contemporary art, and the great Café Design (see p.163) overﬂows into the park in the summer. You might want to catch a bird’s-eye view of the city from the nearby Torre Branca (Wed 10.30am–12.30pm & 4–6.30pm, Sat 10.30am–1pm, 3–6.30pm & 8.30pm–midnight, Sun 10.30am–2pm & 2.30–7pm; €4; W www.branca.it/torre /dati.asp), designed by Gio Ponte on the occasion of the ﬁfth Triennale in 1933, or keep children entertained at the Acquario Civico (Tues–Sun 9am–1pm & 2–5.30pm; free; W www.verdeacqua.eu), a pretty Liberty building with a small collection of tanks.

Brera and Moscova Due north of La Scala, Via Brera sets the tone for Milan’s arty quarter: small galleries nestle in the lanes surrounding the Accademia di Belle Arti and Pinacoteca di Brera. As you’ll notice from the café prices and designer styles of those who can afford to sit outside them, these cobbled streets are the terrain of the urban rich. Across Via Fatebenefratelli, the stylish bars and traditional trattorias continue north through the neighbourhood of Moscova, home to the offices of the Corriere della Sera newspaper. A good area for shopping and browsing, Corso Garibaldi, Via Solferino and Via San Marco lead up to the bastion in Piazza XXV Aprile, which marks the beginning of Corso Como, a trendy street full of bars, clubs and boutiques, which in turn leads up to the train and bus station of Porta Garibaldi. Pinacoteca di Brera

Milan’s most prestigious art gallery, the Pinacoteca di Brera, Via Brera 28 (Tues–Sun 8.30am–7.15pm; €5; W www.brera.beniculturali.it), was opened to the public in 1809 by Napoleon, who ﬁlled the building with works looted from the churches and aristocratic collections of French-occupied Italy. It’s big: your visit will probably be more enjoyable if you’re selective, dipping into the collection guided by your own personal tastes. There’s a good audioguide available (€3.50), although it does rather gallop through the highlights. Not surprisingly, most of the museum’s paintings are Italian and predate the twentieth century. Some later works are on display, including by Modigliani, De Chirico and Carrà (Room X), but it’s the Renaissance which comprises the museum’s core. There’s a good representation of Venetian painters – works by Bonifacio and, a century later, Paolo Veronese, the latter weighing in with Supper in the House of Simon (Room IX). The painting got him into trouble with the Inquisition, who considered the introduction of frolicking animals and unruly kids unsuitable subject matter for a religious painting. Tintoretto’s Pietà (Room IX) was more in tune with requirements of the time (the 1560s), a scene of intense concentration and grief over Christ’s body. Gentile Bellini’s St Mark Preaching in St Euphemia Square (Room VIII) introduces an exotic note: the square bustles with turbaned men, veiled women, camels and even a giraffe. There are also paintings by Gentile’s follower, Carpaccio – The Presentation of the Virgin and The Disputation of St Stephen (Room VI) – along with a profoundly moving Pietà (Room VI) by Gentile’s more talented brother, Giovanni. Look out also for The Dead Christ (Room VI), a painting by Giovanni Bellini’s brother-in-law, Mantegna: it’s an ingenious composition – viewed from Christ’s wrinkled and pierced soles upwards. One of Mantegna’s sons had died around the time he was working on this painting and it seems that the desolation in the women’s faces and the powerful sense of bereavement emanating from the work were autobiographical.

Quadrilatero d’Oro

| Milan: The City

The Roman thoroughfare Via Manzoni leads north from La Scala to Porta Nuova, one of the medieval entrances to the city forming one side of the Quadrilatero d’Oro. Comprising a few hundred square metres bordered by Via Montenapoleone, Via Sant’Andrea, Via della Spiga and Via Manzoni, the quarter is home to shops of all the big international and Italian fashion names, along with design studios and contemporary art galleries. This is Milan in its element and the area is well worth a wander if only to see the city’s better-heeled residents in their natural habitat. For more on shopping in Milan, see p.166.

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Later rooms hold yet more quality work, of which Piero della Francesca’s haunting Madonna with Angels, Saints and Federico da Montefeltro (Room XXIV) is the most arresting. But take a look too at Raphael’s Marriage of the Virgin (Room XXIV), whose lucid, languid Renaissance mood is in sharp contrast to the grim realism of Caravaggio’s Supper at Emmaus (Room XXIX), which is set in a dark tavern. Less well known but equally lifelike are the paintings of Lombardy’s brilliant eighteenth-century realist, Ceruti – known as Il Pitocchetto (The Little Beggar) for his unfashionable sympathy with the poor, who stare out with reproachful dignity from his canvases (Room XXXVI). Francesco Hayez’s Romantic-era The Kiss (Room XXXVII) is one of the most reproduced of the gallery’s paintings, but the artist’s ﬁne portrait of the writer Alessandro Manzoni, in the same room, is far less saccharine. The collection ends with the unﬁnished Fuimaria (Room XXXVII) by Giuseppe Pellizza da Volpedo, a composition revealing the artist’s socialist ideals and an emerging consciousness of people-power – a theme that he returned to for The Fourth Estate (Il Quarto Stato).

Museo Bagatti Valsecchi

In a house linking Via Santo Spirito with Via Gesù 5, just off Via Montenapoleone, is the Museo Bagatti Valsecchi (Tues–Sun 1–5.45pm; €8; W www.museobagatti valsecchi.org). Built by brothers Fausto and Giuseppe Bagatti Valsecchi in the nineteenth century in homage to Renaissance style, it served as a home for their family and their collections. All the rooms are richly decorated with carved ﬁreplaces, painted ceilings and heavy wall-hangings and paintings. The ﬁreplace in the drawing room perfectly illustrates the brothers’ eclectic approach to decoration: the main surround is sixteenth-century Venetian, the frescoes in the middle are from Cremona, while the whole ensemble is topped off with the Bagatti Valsecchi coat of arms. Modern conveniences were incorporated into the house but not allowed to ruin the harmony, so the shower in the bathroom is disguised in a niche, and the piano, which was not realized as an instrument until the eighteenth century, is incorporated within a cabinet. Look out also for touching domestic items, such as the nursery furniture for Giuseppe’s children. Museo Poldi Pezzoli

Halfway between La Scala and Porta Nuova, the eclectic Museo Poldi Pezzoli at Via Manzoni 12 (Tues–Sun 10am–6pm; €8; W www.museopoldipezzoli.it) comprises pieces assembled by the nineteenth-century collector Gian Giacomo Poldi Pezzoli. Much of this is made up of rather dull rooms of clocks, watches, cutlery and jewellery, but the Salone Dorato upstairs contains a number of intriguing paintings, including a portrait of a portly San Nicola da Tolentino by Piero della Francesca, part of an altarpiece on which he worked intermittently for ﬁfteen years. St Nicholas looks across at two works by Botticelli; one a gentle Madonna del Libro, among the many variations of the Madonna and Child theme

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which he produced at the end of the ﬁfteenth century, and the other a mesmerizing Deposition, painted towards the end of his life in response to the monk Savonarola’s crusade against his earlier, more humanistic canvases. Also in the room is the museum’s best-known portrait, Portrait of a Young Woman by Antonio Pollaiuolo, whose anatomical studies are evidenced in the subtle suggestion of bone structure beneath skin. The Giardini Pubblici L OMBARDY AND THE L AKE S

| Milan: The City

At the top of Piazza Cavour, on the northern side of Porta Nuova, lie the Giardini Pubblici (open dawn until dusk), Milan’s most attractive park. Designed by Piermarini shortly after he completed La Scala, the gardens stretch from Piazza Cavour over to Porta Venezia. Re-landscaped in the nineteenth century to give a more rustic look, the park, with its shady avenues, children’s play areas and small lake, is ideal for a break from the busy streets. Across the road at Via Palestro 16, housed in Napoleon’s former town residence, the Villa Reale (also called Villa Belgiojoso Bonaparte), is the Museo dell’Ottocento (Tues–Sun 9am–1pm & 2–5.30pm; free). Skip through the unexciting collection of nineteenth-century art and sculpture to the striking canvas Il Quarto Stato by Giuseppe Pellizza da Volpedo, a member of the self-styled scapigliati (“wildhaired”) movement of the late nineteenth century. Next door, the Padiglione d’Arte Contemporanea (PAC; Tues, Wed & Fri–Sun 9.30am–7.30pm, Thurs 9.30am–10.30pm; €6; W www.comune.milano.it/pac) is a venue for decent temporary exhibitions of contemporary art. Behind the art galleries, the Giardini della Villa Reale offer an urban oasis reserved for those with children under 13. With a small area of swings, lawns, shady trees and a little pond with ducks, turtles and giant carp, it makes a perfect bolthole. The Ticinese district

Leading southwest away from the Duomo, past the chain stores of Via Torino, the city takes on a different, slightly more alternative air. The main thoroughfare of the Ticinese district, the Corso di Porta Ticinese, has become a focus for fashion and is lined with small boutiques and bars. The area really comes into its own at aperitivo time, especially during summer when people spill on to the pedestrian streets from the numerous bars and cafés. San Lorenzo Maggiore

Towards the northern end of Corso Ticinese stands San Lorenzo Maggiore, considered by Leonardo da Vinci to be the most beautiful church in Milan. It is indeed a graceful building with a quiet dignity, somewhat at odds with the skateboarding and partying that goes on in the piazza outside. One of the four churches founded by Sant’Ambrogio in the city in the fourth century, it was built with masonry salvaged from various Roman buildings. The sixteen Corinthian columns outside – the Colonne di San Lorenzo – were placed here in the fourth century as a portico to the church. To the right of the altar, the Cappella di Sant’Aquilino (daily 7.30am–6pm; €2) was probably built as an imperial mausoleum. The lunettes in the Roman octagonal room hold beautiful fourth-century mosaics, which would originally have covered all the walls, while beneath the relics of Sant’Aquilino steps lead down to what is left of the original foundations, a jigsaw of fragments of Roman architecture. 158

Sant’Eustorgio

Heading south down Corso Ticinese, you come to Sant’Eustorgio, another fourth-century church, built to house the bones of the Magi, said to have been

Milan’s canals

L OMBARDY AND THE L AKE S

| Milan: The City

Improbable though it may seem, less than ﬁfty years ago Milan was still a viable port – and less than a hundred years ago several of its main arteries – including Via Senato and Via San Marco – were busy waterways. It was only logical for Milan’s powers to want to harness the surrounding rivers for both trade and military purposes. In the twelfth century, the ﬁrst canals linked irrigation channels and the various defensive moats of the city. Later, in 1386, the Naviglio Grande was opened, linking the city to the River Ticino and thus Lake Maggiore. It was Gian Galeazzo Visconti, however, who was really responsible for the development of the system, in the fourteenth century. Looking for a way to transport the building materials for the Duomo, especially marble from Lake Maggiore, he invited proposals for solving the various logistical problems involved: Leonardo da Vinci is said to have had a hand in the invention of a system of locks developed to compensate for the different water levels of the canals. Travellers were also seen on the canals: the ruling families of the North used them to visit one another, Prospero and Miranda escaped along the Navigli in The Tempest, and they were still plied by the Grand Tourists in the eighteenth century; Goethe, for example, describes the hazards of journeying by canal. A number of rivers and canals were added to the system over the centuries; the Spanish developed the Darsena to the south in 1603 and under Napoleon’s regime the Naviglio Pavese was made navigable all the way to Pavia and down to the River Po, and so to the Adriatic. During the Industrial Revolution, raw materials like coal, iron and silk were brought into the city, and handmade products transported out with an efﬁciency that ensured Milan’s commercial and economic dominance of the region. The process of covering over the canals began in the 1930s, to make way for the city’s trams and trolley buses. In the 1950s, desperately needed materials were ﬂoated in for reconstructing the badly bombed city but by the mid-1970s, only a handful of canals were left uncovered; the last working boat plied the waters in 1977. The best way to explore Milan’s waterways is on a relaxing boat trip, which run between April and mid-September when the canals are not being dredged or cleaned; for more information ask at the tourist ofﬁce or check Wwww.naviglilombardi.it. Alternatively, grab some mosquito repellent, don a pair of walking shoes or rent a bike (see p.167) and head off down the towpaths into the paddy ﬁelds of Lombardy.

brought here by Sant’Ambrogio. It was rebuilt in the eleventh century, and in the twelfth century was virtually destroyed by Barbarossa, who seized the Magi’s bones and deposited them in Cologne’s cathedral. Some of the bones were returned in 1903 and are kept in a Roman sarcophagus tucked away in the right transept. A must-see while here is the Portinari Chapel, accessed round to the left of the main entrance (Tues–Sun 10am–6pm; €6). The beautiful chapel consciously recalls Brunelleschi’s San Lorenzo in Florence, with two domed rooms, the smaller one housing the altar. It has been credited with being Milan’s ﬁrst true Renaissance building because of its simple geometric design; the mixture of Lombard terracotta sculpture and Florentine monochromatic simplicity makes an enchanting stylistic fusion. It was commissioned from the Florentine architect Michelozzi in the 1460s by one Pigello Portinari, an agent of the Medici bank, to house the remains of St Peter the Martyr, an unattractive saint who was excommunicated for entertaining women in his cell, then cleared and given a job as an Inquisitor. The Navigli

The southern end of Corso di Porta Ticinese is guarded by the nineteenth-century Arco di Porta Ticinese, marking the beginning of Milan’s canal – or Navigli –

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| Milan: The City

neighbourhood, once a bustling industrial area and these days a focus for the city’s nightlife. Much lauded by tourist guides, the area is scruffy and often disappointing in the harsh light of day. The best time to visit is in the evening when the quarter’s many restaurants and bars come alive, although the monthly Sunday antiques street-market (last Sun of month; closed July and August) also brings a vivacious focus to the waterways. South from the Darsena (the main goods dock), the Naviglio Grande and the Naviglio Pavese, respectively the ﬁrst and last of the city’s canals to be completed, lead into the plains of Lombardy. This was once Milan at its grittiest. Some of the warehouses and traditional tenement blocks, or case di ringhiera, have been refurbished and become prime real estate but you’ll still ﬁnd plenty of unreconstructed corners. Craftsmen and artists have moved in and although the overpriced craft and antique shops won’t hold your attention for long, a wander round the streets, popping into open courtyards, will give you a feel of the neighbourhood. Take a look at the prettiﬁed Vicolo dei Lavandai (Washerwomen’s Alley), near the beginning of the Naviglio Grande, where washerwomen scrubbed smalls in the murky canal waters. Five minutes’ walk west from the Naviglio Grande is Porta Genova, the train station for Milan’s southern outskirts. It is also the name given to one of Milan’s up-and-coming areas. Across the tracks from the train station, bars and restaurants have moved in and disused warehouses and factories are being reclaimed by photographers, fashion houses and designers. Giorgio Armani has an exhibition space and workshops here, as does Prada.

Santa Maria delle Grazie and around Due west from the Duomo, on Corso Magenta, stands the attraction that brings most visitors to Milan – the beautiful terracotta-and-brick church of Santa Maria delle Grazie, famous for its mural of The Last Supper by Leonardo da Vinci. Originally built as a Gothic church by the architect Solari, it was part of the Dominican monastery that headed the Inquisition in the ﬁfteenth and sixteenth centuries. Soon after its completion, Lodovico Sforza commissioned Bramante to rework and model the Gothic structure into a grand dynastic mausoleum. Bramante promptly tore down the existing chancel and replaced it with a massive dome supported by an airy Renaissance cube. Lodovico also intended to replace the nave and facade, but was unable to do so before Milan fell to the French, leaving an odd combination of styles – Gothic vaults, decorated in powdery blues, reds and ochre, illuminated by the light that ﬂoods through the windows of Bramante’s dome. A side door leads into Bramante’s cool and tranquil cloisters, from which there’s a good view of the sixteen-sided drum the architect placed around his dome.

Booking for The Last Supper

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To visit The Last Supper, you need to book in advance, at least a month (or more) in summer and at weekends (English-speaking reservations line Mon–Fri 9am–6pm, Sat 9am–2pm; T 02.92.800.360, W www.cenacolovinciano.org; viewing Tues–Sun 8.15am–6.45pm; €6.50, plus €1.50 obligatory booking fee). If it’s fully booked when you call, try going to the desk and asking about cancellations: people don’t always turn up for the early-morning viewings so it might be worth chancing your luck. At your allotted hour, once you’ve passed through a series of air-ﬁltering systems, your ﬁfteen-minute slot face-to-face with the masterpiece begins.

The Last Supper

L OMBARDY AND THE L AKE S

| Milan: The City

Leonardo’s The Last Supper – signposted Cenacolo Vinciano – is one of the world’s great paintings and most resonant images. However, getting to see art of this magnitude doesn’t come easy (see box opposite). Henry James likened the painting to an “illustrious invalid” that people visited with “leave-taking sighs and almost death-bed or tip-toe precautions”; certainly it’s hard, when you visit the fragile painting, not to feel that it’s the last time you’ll see it. A twenty-year restoration has re-established the original colours using contemporary descriptions and copies, but that the work survived at all is something of a miracle. Leonardo’s decision to use oil paint rather than the more usual faster-drying – and longer-lasting – fresco technique with watercolours led to the painting disintegrating within ﬁve years of its completion. A couple of centuries later Napoleonic troops billeted here used the wall for target practice. And, in 1943, an Allied bomb destroyed the building, amazingly leaving only The Last Supper’s wall standing. A Last Supper was a conventional theme for refectory walls, but Leonardo’s decision to capture the moment when Christ announces that one of his disciples will betray him imbues the work with an unprecedented sense of drama. Leonardo spent two years on the mural, wandering the streets of Milan searching for and sketching models. When the monks complained that the face of Judas was still unﬁnished, Leonardo replied that he had been searching for over a year among the city’s criminals for a sufficiently evil visage, and that if he didn’t ﬁnd one he would use the face of the prior. Whether or not Judas is modelled on the prior is unrecorded, but Leonardo’s Judas does seem, as Vasari wrote, “the very embodiment of treachery and inhumanity”. Goethe commented on how very Italian the painting was in that so much is conveyed through the expressions of the characters’ hands; the group of Matthew, Thaddaeus and Simon on the far right of the mural could be discussing a football match or the latest government scandal in any bar in Italy today. The only disciple not gesticulating or protesting in some way is the recoiling Judas who has one hand clenched while a bread roll has just dropped dramatically out of the other. Christ is calmly reaching out to share his bread with him while his other hand falls open in a gesture of sacriﬁce. If you feel you need any conﬁrmation of the emotional tenor or accomplishment of the painting, take a look at the contemporary Cruciﬁxion by Montorfano on the wall at other end of the refectory, not a bad fresco in itself, but destined always to pale in comparison with Leonardo’s masterpiece. Museo Archeologico and Roman remains

The Museo Archeologico, in the ex-Monastero Maggiore at Corso Magenta 15 (Tues–Sun 9am–1pm & 2–5.30pm; €2, free on Fri after 2pm), is worth a quick visit for a glimpse of the city’s Roman heritage. The displays of glass phials, kitchen utensils and jewellery from Roman Milan are compelling, and though there’s a scarcity of larger objects, you can see a colossal stone head of Jupiter, found near the castle, a carved torso of Hercules, and a smattering of mosaic pavements unearthed around the city. Perhaps the most interesting sight, though, is the 24-sided tower in the internal courtyard of the museum that was part of the Roman wall of the city. One block east from the museum, Via Brisa runs south alongside the ruins of the imperial palace of the Roman emperor Maximian, unearthed after World War II bombing. South of here towards Via Torino, the medieval plan of the streets belies the Roman origins of the neighbourhood, where remnants of ancient mosaics and masonry are incorporated into the current buildings.

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L’aperitivo

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An Italian custom that has been honed to a ﬁne art in Milan is the aperitivo, or pre-dinner drink, usually taken between 6 and 9pm. As well as another opportunity to preen and pose, aperitivo-time – or “happy hour” as it is also called – is a boon for budget travellers: bar counters are often laden with hot and cold food, all of which is included in the price of your drink (somewhere between €3 and €10, depending on the establishment). Take a plate and help yourself, although if you’re really planning to ﬁll up, it’ll go down better if you go back several times rather than piling your plate high. If you choose your venue wisely you won’t need to spend another penny on food all night. The food in most aperitivo bars winds up as the evening goes on: the lights dim and the volume of the music increases and you can settle in for the night. For reviews of the city’s best aperitivo bars, see p.165.

Sant’Ambrogio

| Milan: Eating

A few minutes’ walk southwest from Corso Magenta, the church of Sant’Ambrogio (Mon–Sat 7.30am–12.30pm & 2.30–9pm, Sun 7.30am–1pm & 3–8pm) was founded in the fourth century by Milan’s patron saint, St Ambrose. The saint’s remains still lie in the church’s crypt, but there’s nothing left of the original church in which his most famous convert, St Augustine, ﬁrst heard him preach. The present twelfth-century church, the blueprint for many of Lombardy’s Romanesque basilicas, is, however, one of the city’s loveliest, reached through a colonnaded quadrangle with column capitals carved with rearing horses, contorted dragons and an assortment of bizarre predators. Inside, to the left of the nave, a freestanding Byzantine pillar is topped with a “magic” bronze serpent, symbolizing Aaron’s rod. Look, too, at the pulpit, a superb piece of Romanesque carving decorated with reliefs of wild animals and the occasional human, most of whom are intent on devouring one another. There are older relics further down the nave, notably the ciborium, reliefed with the ﬁgures of saints Gervasius and Protasius – martyred Roman soldiers whose clothed bodies ﬂank that of St Ambrose in the crypt. Outside (entrance to the left of the choir) is Bramante’s unﬁnished Cortile della Canonica. The side that Bramante did complete, a novel concoction incorporating knobbly columns and a triumphal arch, was shattered by a World War II bomb and reconstructed from the fragments; the second side was added only in 1955. The adjacent Benedictine monastery that the Sforza family commissioned Bramante to restructure has housed the Università Cattolica since the 1920s.

Eating Milan has restaurants and cafés to suit every pocket and perhaps the widest choice of cuisine in Italy. Whether you’re looking for a neighbourhood trattoria, want to watch models pick at their salads or crave a bit of well-priced ethnic food, Milan has it all – usually within easy reach of wherever you’re staying. If you don’t fancy a sit-down meal, make the most of the Milanese custom of aperitivo (see box above) to curb your hunger. 162

Lunch and snack food There are street markets every day, except Sunday, scattered throughout the city, selling all the cheese, salami and fruit you need for a picnic lunch; a complete list

is given daily in the Corriere della Sera under “Mercati”. Alternatively, the mercato comunale in Piazza Wagner sells similar fresh produce but under one large, colourful roof. For supermarkets, some of the handiest are Standa at Via Torino 37, near the Duomo; Esselunga at Viale Piave 38, near Porta Venezia; and the overpriced Centro Commerciale in the Stazione Centrale (daily 5.30am–midnight).

Cafés and gelaterie Caffè Miani Piazza del Duomo 21. Opened with the Galleria in 1867, Caffè Miani, also known as Zucca in Galleria and Camparino, was where David Campari invented Milan’s famous sticky red drink. These days it’s both expensive and touristy, but the price of a coffee standing at the tiled bar is easier to swallow. Closed Wed. Chocolat Via Boccaccio 9. A small, modern bar beside Milano Nord station, with comfy sofas, offering thirty different chocolate-ﬂavoured ice creams plus some refreshing fruit ones, too; there’s hot chocolate to die for in winter. Closed Sun morning.

| Milan: Eating

plate of nibbles or a full-blown meal to match. The top ﬂoor of this department store is divided between the city’s best breadmakers, mozzarella specialists, sushi chefs, experts in Milanese cooking and chocolatiers to provide a gourmet pick-and-mix to please all tastes. Choose a table on the terrace outside and you can almost reach over and feed the gargoyles on the Duomo roof. Luini Via S. Radegonda 16. A city institution that’s been serving panzerotti (deep-fried mini calzone) round the corner from the Duomo for over 150 years. Standing room only; grab a bench in nearby Piazza San Fedele if you want to eat sitting down. Closed Sun. Vecchia Latteria Via dell’Unione 6. Delicious vegetarian dishes are prepared by the owners in this tiny neighbourhood joint just off Via Torino. Closed Sun.

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Café Design La Triennale, Viale Alemagne 6 T 02.875.441. The chairs are all design classics in this spacious, informal place with windows overlooking Parco Sempione. The good lunchtime menu (noon–2.30pm) features light dishes such as a trio of smoked ﬁsh or quiche and salad; Sunday brunch is a relaxed, civilized affair that you’ll need to book for. In good weather, head outside to sip an aperitivo beside sculptures by the likes of De Chirico and Toyo Ito. Closed Mon. Da Claudio Via Ponte Vetrero 16. Mouthwateringly fresh sashimi and shellﬁsh is served at the central bar amid the bustle of this traditional ﬁshmonger on the edge of Brera. Lunch (noon–2.30pm) and aperitivo-time only (5–9pm). Closed Sun & Mon. La Rinascente Top ﬂoor, La Rinascente, Piazza del Duomo 12. A recent refurb ﬁnally allows you to enjoy one of the best views in town with a

Cova Via Montenapoleone 8. Fin-de-siècle surroundings set the scene for this elegant tearoom dating from the Napoleonic era. Discreet service and starched linen accompany the mouthwatering chocolate delicacies, although they don’t come cheap. Grom Via Santa Margherita 16. Practically opposite La Scala, the central branch of this specialist ice-cream chain serves up traditional ﬂavours using top-quality organic ingredients. Sartori Piazza Luigi di Savoia. This legendary kiosk up against one side of the Stazione Centrale (by the airport buses) serves some of the city’s best ice cream, including avocado and lychee ﬂavours. Closed Thurs.

Restaurants Predictably, the centre of Milan has numerous expensive, business-oriented restaurants, but usually, just round the corner, there is somewhere more atmospheric or better value. South of the centre, the area around the Ticinese and Navigli is full of restaurants and cafés, but this is a touristy area and quality is not always a priority. We’ve also included a couple of bargain places around the budget hotels near Porta Venezia. Anema e Cozze Via Palermo 15 T 02.8646.1646. This bright, lively Neapolitan spot is a good choice for tasty, informal meals. The pizzas are crispy, the seafood fresh and the ﬂavoursome

salads make a pleasant change from pasta; expect to pay around €30 per person. Branches at Via Casale 7 and Via Orseolo 1 are equally recommended.

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| Milan: Drinking and nightlife

Joia Via P. Castaldi 18 T02.2952.2124. Well-established foodie haven, serving highly imaginative combinations of vegetables and ﬁsh. The lunchtime menu is good value, but in the evenings expect to pay around €70 per person. Closed Sat lunch, Sun & Aug. La Latteria Via San Marco 24 T 02.659.7653. This cosy trattoria is a favourite with the designer types of Moscova. Delicious home-made pastas and roast meats are served up by the owner; reckon on around €15 for a main course. Closed Sat, Sun & Aug. Le Vigne Ripa di Porta Ticinese 61 T02.837.5617. One of the best spots in the canal area for a relaxed meal. Good-value secondi cost around €15 – including ﬁne vegetarian dishes – featuring regional inﬂuences from across the country.The cheese selection and the wine list are particularly impressive. Closed Sun. L’Osteria del Treno Via San Gregorio 46–48 T 02.670.0479. The welcome couldn’t be friendlier at this elegantly converted railworkers’ canteen. Many diners opt for the delicious house platters of cold meats or cheese (€12), although the pasta dishes are recommended, too. Closed all day Sat & Sun dinner. Oskar Via Palazzi 4. A popular restaurant with plenty of local atmosphere, serving fantastic-value pasta dishes in huge portions. Don’t be put off by

the voluble owners or the Mussolini memorabilia in the corners. Closed Sun. Pizza OK Via Lambro 15. Very busy pizzeria that serves some of the best – and biggest – pizzas in town. Huge choice of toppings and good prices that start at €4 for a margherita. Open until 12.30am. Closed Sun lunch. Torre di Pisa Via Fiori Chiari 21 T 02.874.877. An authentic Tuscan restaurant offering delicious antipasti (around €9) and great cuts of meat, in the heart of pedestrian Brera. Closed Sun. Tradizionale Ripa de Porta Ticinese 7 T02.839.5133. Tasty pizzas and mouthwatering ﬁsh dishes are on offer in the rustic atmosphere of this popular canalside joint. There’s another branch at Via de Amicis 26. Trattoria Milanese Via Santa Marta 11 T 02.8645.1991. An elegant but well-priced neighbourhood restaurant in the labyrinth of ancient streets a ten-minute walk west of the Duomo. Risotto and ossobuco take pride of place among all that’s best in Milanese cooking. Closed Tues. Warsa Via Melzo 16 T02.201.607. An Eritrean restaurant near Porta Venezia serving delectable bargain food; good variety of vegetarian dishes as well as various meat options. Around €15 for a full meal. Closed Wed.

Drinking and nightlife Milan’s diverse nightlife is centred on three main areas: the chi-chi districts around Corso Como and further south around Via Brera; Corso Sempione, which draws people after work for an aperitivo and keeps them there until the small hours; and the lively bars, restaurants and clubs of the Navigli and adjacent Ticinese quarter. The city’s clubs are at their hippest midweek: at weekends out-of-towners ﬂood in and any self-respecting Milanese heads for the coast or mountains. Assuming you get in (this is Milan: dress to impress), you’ll be given a tessera or card to be punched for each drink you buy, there’s usually a minimum consumption and you settle the tab when you leave (around €25 minimum). For an antidote to all the preening, check out Milan’s healthy alternative scene, which revolves around the city’s many centri sociali – essentially squats, where committees organize cheap, sometimes free, concerts, ﬁlm screenings and the like. They also contain bars and – often good – vegetarian restaurants. Check out the ﬂagship Leoncavallo, Via Watteau 7 (T 02.670.5185, W www.leoncavallo.org), or ﬁnd other centri listed in Il Manifesto newspaper.

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Bars See p.150 for details of the bars located in the fashion stores around the Quadrilatero d’Oro.

Clubs and music venues Blue Note Via Borsieri 37 W www.bluenotemilano .com. Jazz club in the alternative neighbourhood of Isola, just north of Porta Garibaldi station. Big names and a relaxed atmosphere make this place a top venue. There’s a small restaurant, as well as the bar. Gasoline Via Bonnet 11/A W www.discogasoline.it. Small, dark, funky club near the bars of Brera and Corso Como. Thursdays are particularly popular for the “Popstarz” electro-fest. Hollywood Corso Como 15 W www.discoteca hollywood.com. Long established as the place to

go (until dawn) if you want to be surrounded by beautiful people. Very Milanese but certainly no mould-breaker. Wed is gay party night (“Sodoma”). Rocket Via Pezzotti 52 Wwww.therocket.it. Free entrance and a great mix of music makes this intimate little club popular with a hip crowd, especially on Thursday evenings. Closed Sun. Scimmie Via Ascanio Sforza 49 Wwww.scimmie .it. Ticinese club that is one of Milan’s most popular venues, with a different band every night and jazzfusion predominating. Small and fun, with a decent restaurant – and a barge on the canal in summer.

| Milan: Opera, classical music and film

Cuore Via G. Mora 3. Hidden away down a side street opposite San Lorenzo alle Colonne, this cool, friendly bar is well worth including in your night out. Good music with occasional live bands and DJs set the mixed crowd at their ease. Gattopardo Café Via Piero della Francesca 47. This ultra-fashionable spot, located in a deconsecrated church, is decked out in homage to Visconti’s ﬁlm The Leopard. It opens at 6pm and the door policy gets stricter after 10.30pm when the extensive aperitivo buffet is cleared away and the DJ turns up the music. Closed Mon. Le Biciclette Conca del Naviglio 10. Smart young things prop up the bar in this swish, modern joint in a leafy street near the Navigli. The deﬁnitive aperitivo bar. Lelephante Via Melzo 22. Cocktails are the speciality at this good-time bar popular with a mixed crowd. Hardly a poseur in sight. Roialto Via Piero della Francesca 55. This huge converted garage on various levels is done out in every conceivable style from 1930s colonial to chill-out lounge. Closed Mon.

L OMBARDY AND THE L AKE S

Atomic Via Felice Casati 24. Refreshing spot just north of Porta Venezia where you can have an after-dinner drink and a dance in a cool but relaxed atmosphere – most un-Milanese. Closed Mon & Aug. Bar Bianco Parco Sempione. Right in the heart of the park, this unassuming café kicks into action on summer nights as a late-night bar with thumping music. Closed Mon. Bar Jamaica Via Brera 32. This bar, made famous by the Arte Povera set of the 1950s, is right in the heart of Brera. Pop in for a coffee or snack during the day or keep drinking well into the early hours. Bhangrabar Corso Sempione 1. Opposite the Arco della Pace, this Indian-themed bar is a trendy option at aperitivo-time (6.30–9pm) or later, as the DJs crank up the latest electronic or world music. Corso Como 10 The bar is the best bit of this complex of boutiques, exhibition space, restaurant and a courtyard café-bar. Prices are extortionate but the atmosphere is very chic.

Opera, classical music and ﬁlm Milan’s La Scala, Via dei Filodrammatici 2, is one of the world’s most prestigious opera houses, staging opera from early December to July. It also puts on some classical concerts and ballet between September and November (occasionally in the less atmospheric Teatro Arcimboldi, located outside the city centre). Tickets cost about €60 on average – and sell out months in advance. Buy by phone or online (T 02.860.775, W www.teatroallascala.org), or in person at the Central Box Office, Galleria del Sagrato, underground in the corridors of Duomo metro station (Sept–July daily noon–6pm). A number of tickets for each performance are set aside for sale on the day. Sound and Motion Pictures (W www.spaziocinema.info) shows original-language ﬁlms at the following cinemas: Anteo, Via Milazzo 9; Arcobaleno, Viale Tunisia 11; and Mexico, Via Savona 57.

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Shopping

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Milan is synonymous with shopping. If your pockets are not deep enough to tackle the big-name designer boutiques of the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele you could always rummage through last season’s leftovers at the many factory outlets around town, or check out the city’s wide range of medium- and budget-range clothes shops. Milan also excels in furniture and design, with showrooms from the world’s top companies, plus a handful of shops offering a selection of brands and labels under one roof. Most shops open Tuesday to Saturday (10am–12.30pm & 3.30–7pm), plus Monday afternoons, although some larger places also stay open at lunchtime and on Sunday afternoons. The summer sale usually lasts through July and August, the winter one around mid-January to mid-February. La Rinascente (W www.rinascente.it) on Piazza Duomo has had a revamp in recent years and has become Milan’s best one-stop shop: each department is divided up into boutiques so browsing among the designer goods, from bed linen to bridal wear, toasters to top-quality togs is a joy. The top-ﬂoor food hall is a great refuelling stop (see p.163).

| Milan: Shopping

Fashion Milan’s top-name fashion stores are mainly concentrated in three areas. The Quadrilatero d’Oro – Via Montenapoleone, Via della Spiga and around – is the place for Versace, Prada et al. Corso di Porta Ticinese houses funkier, more youth-oriented shops – independents as well as global names like Diesel, Carhartt and Stussy. Head to Corso Vittorio Emanuele or Via Torino for large branches of Italian mid-range chains, including Max Mara, Benetton and Stefanel, plus H&M and Zara. Designer

Below is just a taster of what Milan has to offer in terms of the top-label shopping experience. These days the concept of a shop is being extended further and further: in-house cafés are springing up, as are exhibition spaces, spas, barbers and even gyms.

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Dolce & Gabbana Menswear at Corso Venezia 15. Go through to the courtyard on the ground ﬂoor of this eighteenth-century palazzo to ﬁnd a wonderful space dedicated to enhancing your shopping experience. There’s an old-fashioned barber’s, a small beautican’s and the oh-so stylish Bar Martini. Womenswear at Via della Spiga 26; D&G line, including D&G junior, at Corso Venezia 7. Gianfranco Ferré Via Sant’Andrea 15. The sculptural designs of this master of couture are mirrored by the decor of his boutique with its stunning red-resin wall, but it’s the adjoining day-spa that makes it really special. Mon–Fri 10am–10pm, Sat 10am–9pm, Sun 11am–6pm. Gianni Versace Via Montenapoleone 11. Unusually for Versace, this store, spread over ﬁve storeys, is remarkably understated. The clean lines provide a perfect backdrop for the luxurious ostentation of the clothes, shoes and accessories in glinting gold and swirling colours.

Giorgio Armani Via Manzoni 31. This temple to all things Giorgio is more of a mini-shopping centre than a shop. There are boutiques for all his ranges – womenswear, menswear, furnishings and homeware – accompanied by Armani Café, a relaxed pavement café, and Nobu, a pricey, high-tech Japanese restaurant with fantastically offhand service. With a book corner selling design and coffee-table books, an in-house ﬂorists and a chocolate counter, you really won’t need to spend your money anywhere else in town. Gucci Via Montenapoleone 5–7 & Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II. Every desirable fashion item imaginable is available in the warren of sleek showrooms in Via Montenapoleone, while the newer store in the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II has the Gucci Café: revitalize in an atmosphere of elegant minimalism with a freshly squeezed fruit juice or a coffee. Just Cavalli Boutique Via della Spiga 30. The ultimate in bling. Cavalli’s leopardskin-clad

the basement. Accessories, including shoes, at Via della Spiga 18; menswear at Via Montenapoleone 6; womenswear at Via Montenapoleone 8; sportswear at Via Sant’Andrea 21. Trussardi Via Sant’Andrea 3–7. A spacious boutique across three ﬂoors with the über-chic Trussardi-Marino Alla Scala Café on the ground ﬂoor and a huge video wall to keep you entertained while you sip your coffee. On the ﬂoor above the soft leather bags and crisp linens is the formal but well-priced restaurant, and one ﬂoor higher still is a contemporary gallery space. Accessories and homeware at Piazza della Scala 5.

Factory outlets

Furniture and design To pick up Alessi, Gio Ponte or Castiglione designer furniture, make for the broad streets off San Babila: Corso Europa, Via Durini, Corso Venezia and Corso Monforte are home to the furniture and lighting showrooms that made Milan the design capital of the world in the 1950s. For a more relaxed, but very Milanese, shopping experience, try a concept store that sells a bit of everything: High Tech, at Piazza XXV Aprile 12, is great for getting lost among designer, imitation and ethnic knick-knacks; while 10 Corso Como sells a few perfectly chosen design and fashion objects, as well as books and music, alongside a café and art gallery. B&B Italia Via Durini 14 W www.bebitalia.it. International name that specializes in stylish contemporary furniture with collections by big names in modern Italian design. Cassina Via Durini 16 Wwww.cassina.it. The showroom of this legendary Milanese company is always worth a visit for both new designs and their range of twentieth-century design classics including Eames, De Stijl and Rennie Mackintosh chairs. De Padova Corso Venezia 14 W www.depadova.it. Two ﬂoors of elegant own-brand furniture and

| Milan: Listings

In and around Milan are outlets or factory shops galore, selling last season’s designer-label fashions for half-price or less. Aim for the multi-label D-Magazine, Via Montenapoleone 26; the hard-to-ﬁnd Basement, entered through the door to the left of no. 15 on Via Senato, with bargains from all the top labels; and DT Intrend, Galleria San Carlo 6, near the Duomo, offering discounts on the Max Mara brands. Others demand more of a hike, although the savings are higher: the grande dame is Il Salvagente, Via Bronzetti 16, ﬁfteen minutes east of San Babila by bus (#54 & #61), where, with a little rummaging, you can bag a designer label for around a third of its original price.

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clientele feel wonderfully at home in the whitecloud lift or shimmying up and down the giant central staircase. The pièce de résistance, however, is down in the café, Just Cavalli Food, where a saltwater aquarium swims with brightly coloured tropical ﬁsh. Prada Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II. The original Prada store, dating from 1913, stands in the centre of the galleria. Much of the elegant interior is original, including the monochrome marble ﬂoor and polished wood display cabinets, but the best bit is the central staircase swirling down past the leather goods to the men’s and women’s collections in

housewares artfully displayed in a light, stylish showroom. Their collections are designed by big names including Vico Magestretti and Patricia Urquiola. Driade Via Manzoni 30 Wwww.driade.com. A wonderful multi-brand store with their own designs, as well as work by designers like Ron Arad and Philippe Starck. The collection includes furniture, tableware, kitchen and bathroom accessories, but the real treat here is the showroom housed in an elegant nineteenth-century palazzo.

Listings Bicycle rental If you want a bicycle for longer than is possible with the BikeMi scheme (see p.148), head for AWS, Via Ponte Seveso 33

(W www.awsbici.com), or La Stazione, beside San Donato Milanese metro station (W www.lastazione dellebiciclette.com).

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| Pavia and around

Consulates Australia, Via Borgogna 2 T02.776.741; South Africa, Vicolo San Giovanni sul Muro 4 T02.885.8581; UK, Via San Paolo 7 T02.723.001; US, Via Principe Amadeo 2/10 T02.290.351. Football Inter Milan (Wwww.inter.it) and AC Milan (W www.acmilan.it) play on alternate Sundays at the G. Meazza (San Siro) stadium (T 02.404.2432; metro Lotto, then a 10–15min walk). The stadium has hourly guided tours (Mon–Sat 10am–5pm from Gate 14, Via Piccolomini 5; €12.50; W www .sansirotour.com). Buy match tickets here and from New Milan Point, Piazza San Fedele (AC Milan games), or branches of Banca Popolare Milano (Inter games). Gay and lesbian Milan Milan is one of Italy’s most gay-friendly cities. The gay bookshop Libreria Babele Galleria, Viale Regina Giovanna 24/B (T 02.3656.1408, Wwww.libreriababele.it; metro Pora Venezia), is an institution, albeit in a new location. They organize events and stock the Gay Milan map as well as having details of the ArciUno Club Card, which many gay establishments require for entry. In May/June, a gay and lesbian ﬁlm

festival (Wwww.cinemagaylesbico.com) includes fringe events. Left luggage Stazione Centrale (daily 6am– midnight; €3.80/5hr, then small increments up to a max of ﬁve days). Stazione Nord/Cadorna has lockers (daily 5am–11.30pm; €3.50–6.50/2hr 30min). Medical facilities English-speaking doctors and dentists at International Health Center (T 02.7634.0720, Wwww.ihc.it). 24hr pharmacies include Stazione Centrale and Carlo Erba on Piazza del Duomo. Ospedale Maggiore Policlinico, Via Francesco Sforza 35 (T02.55.031), near Piazza del Duomo, has 24hr casualty. Police T113. Post ofﬁce Via Cordusio 4, off Piazza Cordusio – not the building marked “Poste”, but around the corner (Mon–Fri 8am–7pm, Sat 8.30am–noon). Taxis To book, call T02.6767, 02.4040 or 02.8585. Train enquiries Ferrovie dello Stato T848.888.088 (daily 7am–9pm; Wwww.trenitalia.com); Ferrovie Nord T02.20.222 (daily 9am–6pm; Wwww .lenord.it).

Southern Lombardy Apart from Milan, much of Lombardy’s wealth is concentrated in the cities and towns of the broad plain of the River Po, which forms the southern belt of the region. It’s a wealth that is obvious in the well-preserved medieval towns (and the industrial estates that surround them), not to mention in the well-designed clothes and new cars of its citizens. Pavia is a pretty medieval town that makes an attractive introduction to his part of Lombardy, its cobbled streets and ancient churches taking a back seat in terms of sights to the fabulous Certosa monastery nearby. In the east, Cremona, birthplace of the violin, has a neat, well-preserved centre, but does not demand lingering attention. Mantua, on the eastern edge of the region, is Lombardy’s most visually appealing city: the powerful Gonzaga family ruled for three hundred years from an extravagant ducal palace and later the Palazzo Te, on the outskirts of the city, which contains some of the ﬁnest (and most steamily erotic) fresco-painting of the entire Renaissance.

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PAVIA, 55km south of Milan, is close enough to be seen on a day-trip, yet retains a clear identity of its own. A comfortable provincial town with an illustrious history, it boasts one of the masterpieces of Italian architecture in the nearby Carthusian monastery, the Certosa.

Arrival, information and accommodation

The Town Wandering is the nicest way to spend time in Pavia: pick any side street and you’re almost bound to stumble on something of interest – a lofty medieval tower, a pretty Romanesque or Gothic church, or just a silent, sleepy piazza. Getting lost is difficult, as the town is still based around its Roman axes: Corso Cavour – which becomes Corso Mazzini – runs east–west along the route of the decamanus, while Strada Nuova runs north–south following the cardo.

| Pavia and around

Regular trains make the thirty-minute journey from Milan. Buses from Milan Famagosta metro station drop you at Pavia’s bus station, round the corner from the train station, on the western edge of the centre. Buses #3 and #6 connect the train station with the centre, or it’s about a ten-minute walk down Corso Cavour to Piazza della Vittoria. The tourist office is in Piazza della Vittoria in the Palazzo del Broletto (Mon– Fri 9am–1pm & 2–5pm, Sat & Sun 10am–6pm; T 0382.597.001, W www.turismo .provincia.pv.it). Most of Pavia’s unexciting hotels are near the station, including Aurora, Via Vittorio Emanuele 25 (T 0382.23.664, W www.hotel-aurora.eu; 3 ), and the rather smarter Moderno, Via Vittorio Emanuele 41 (T 0382.303.401, W www.hotelmoderno.it; 4 ), which has a small spa and offers free use of bicycles.

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Founded on an easily defendable stretch of land alongside the conﬂuence of the Po and Ticino rivers, Pavia was always an important staging post en route to the Alps. Medieval Pavia was known as the city of a hundred towers, and although only a handful remain, the medieval aspect is still strong, with numerous Romanesque and Gothic churches tucked away in a wanderable web of narrow streets and cobbled squares. The town reached its zenith in the Dark Ages, when it was capital of the Kingdom of the Lombards: emperors – including Charlemagne in 774 and Frederick Barbarossa in 1155 – subsequently came to Pavia to receive the Lombards’ traditional iron crown. This all came to an end in the fourteenth century when Pavia was handed over to the Viscontis and became a satellite of Milan.

Piazza della Vittoria

The large, cobbled Piazza della Vittoria, lined with bars, gelaterie and restaurants, stands in the centre. At the square’s southern end, the Broletto, medieval Pavia’s town hall, abuts the rambling Duomo. An early Renaissance sprawl of protruding curves and jutting angles, the cathedral is best known for its huge nineteenth-century cupola, which dominates the skyline. Its facade was only added in 1933 and the building’s exterior is still mainly unﬁnished. At the time of writing, most of the church was under restoration, due to reopen in 2014. Beside the west front of the Duomo, facing Piazza del Duomo, are the remnants of the eleventh-century Torre Civica, a campanile that collapsed without warning in 1989, killing four people. San Teodoro to the Borgo Ticino

Southwest of the piazza, cobbled streets lead to the charming neighbourhood church of San Teodoro (daily 3–7pm). The twelfth-century basilica was clumsily restored at the end of the nineteenth century, and the main reason for visiting is to see the fresco on the left-hand side of the nave near the entrance: the View of Pavia by Bernardino Lanazani illustrates the city in 1522 with its hundreds of civic towers built by Pavia’s noble families to show their superiority over their rivals.

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Also featured in the painting is the Ponte Coperto, the covered bridge over the River Ticino just south of the basilica. The current bridge was rebuilt slightly downriver in the 1940s after the medieval one was bombed; you can still see remnants of the original jutting out into the water. The bridge leads over to the Borgo Ticino, a riverside neighbourhood traditionally inhabited by ﬁshermen and raniere (frog-catchers); these days there are several popular local restaurants. An open park runs along the shore of both banks west of the bridge. L OMBARDY AND THE L AKE S

San Michele and north

| Pavia and around

The best of Pavia’s churches is the beautiful Romanesque San Michele, a ﬁveminute walk northeast from the bridge along Via Capsoni. This is where the kings of Northern Italy were crowned: Federico I (Barbarossa) came to receive the title here in 1155. The friezes and capitals on its broad sandstone facade are carved into a menagerie of snake-tailed ﬁsh, griffins, dragons and other beasts, some locked in a struggle with people, representing the ﬁght between good and evil. Despite restoration work in the 1960s, the sandstone is eroding and some of the ﬁgures are being lost for good. North of here lie the attractive courtyards and sandstone buildings of the University of Pavia, founded in 1361 by Galeazzo II Visconti, and particularly renowned for its medicine and law faculties. Crossing Piazza Castello, you reach the Castello Visconteo (Tues–Sun: July, Aug, Dec & Jan 9am–1.30pm; March– June & Sept–Nov 10am–5.50pm; €6), also initiated by Galeazzo II Visconti in 1360, and added to by the Sforzas. Although it’s been restored, the rooms that remain are unremarkable. The Museo Civico inside includes a handful of Venetian paintings, Roman artefacts and medieval architectural fragments.

Eating Pavia’s best restaurant, with attractive outdoor tables in summer, is in an alleyway by the church of San Michele. Villaglori al San Michele, Vicolo San Michele 4 (T 0382.220.716; closed Mon & lunch Tues–Fri), offers excellently priced local wines to accompany interesting dishes like rabbit and asparagus lasagne or a mouthwatering selection of cold meats and cheeses in an elegant modern restaurant. Across Corso Strada Nuova, Osteria della Madonna del Peo, Via Cardano 63 (T 0382.302.833; closed Sun), is a good central option serving local specialities, such as risotto with frogs’ legs, in a cosy vaulted trattoria. If you’d prefer to grab a sandwich and head down to the river, the Punto Bar, Strada Nuova 9, is a ﬁrst-rate paninoteca.

Certosa di Pavia

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One of the most extravagant monasteries in Europe, the Certosa di Pavia (Charterhouse of Pavia; Tues–Sun 9–11.30am & 2.30–5.30pm; Oct–March closes 4.30pm; free), 10km north of Pavia, was commissioned by the Duke of Milan, Galeazzo II Visconti, in 1396 as the family mausoleum. Visconti intended the church here to resemble Milan’s late-Gothic cathedral and the same architects and craftsmen worked on the building throughout its construction. It took a century to build; by the time it was ﬁnished tastes had changed (and the Viscontis had been replaced by the Sforzas). As a work of art the monastery is one of the most important testimonies to the transformation from late-Gothic to Renaissance and Mannerist styles, but it also affords a wonderful insight into the lives and beliefs of the Carthusian monks. The Certosa is easily reachable from both Milan and Pavia. Buses run hourly from Milan’s Famagosta station (€3) and from Pavia’s bus station, dropping you a ﬁfteen-minute walk from the Certosa. Arriving by train, turn left out of the station and walk (15min) around the Certosa walls to the entrance.

The complex

Tours

| Cremona

To visit the rest of the monastery you need to join a guided tour (free; contributions welcomed) of just under an hour, led by one of the monks released from the strict Carthusian vow of silence. Tours start from the church when a group has gathered; they are in Italian, but are well worth doing even if you don’t understand a word, as they allow you to explore the best parts of the monastery complex. They move ﬁrst to the small cloister, with ﬁne terracotta decoration and a geometric garden around a fountain, then to the nearby refectory, where monks would eat together on Sundays and holy days; the Bible was read throughout the silent meal from the pulpit (with a hidden entrance in the panelling). The dining room is divided by a blind wall, which allowed the monastery to feed lay workers and guest pilgrims without compromising the rules of their closed order. Further on, the great cloister is stunning for its size and tranquillity. It is surrounded on three sides by the monks’ houses, each consisting of two rooms, a chapel, a garden and a loggia, with a bedroom above. The hatches to the side of the entrances were designed to enable food to be passed through without any communication. The ﬁnal call is the Certosa shop, stocked with honey, chocolate, souvenirs and the famous Chartreuse liqueur.

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The monastery lies at the end of a tree-lined avenue, part of a former Visconti hunting range that stretched all the way from Pavia’s castello. Encircled by a high wall, the complex is entered through a central gateway bearing a motif that recurs throughout the monastery – “GRA-CAR” or “Gratiarum Carthusiae”, a reference to the fact that the Carthusian monastery is dedicated to Santa Maria delle Grazie, who appears in numerous works of art in the church. Beyond the gateway is a gracious courtyard; on the right is the seventeenth-century Palazzo Ducale, while rising up before you is the fantastical facade of the church, festooned with inlaid marble, twisted columns, statues and friezes – though in fact unﬁnished: the tympanum was never added to the top, which gives the church its stocky, truncated look. The church interior is no less splendid, its paintings, statues and vaults combining to create an almost ballroom glamour. Look out for the tombs of Lodovico Il Moro and Gian Galeazzo Visconti, masterpieces of the early Renaissance.

Cremona A cosy provincial town in the middle of the Po plain, CREMONA is renowned for its violins. Ever since Andrea Amati established the ﬁrst violin workshop here in 1566, followed by his son Nicolò and pupils Guarneri and – most famously – Antonio Stradivari (1644–1737), Cremona has been a focus for the instrument. Today the city hosts an internationally famous school of violin-making, as well as frequent classical concerts. Cremona has some ﬁne Renaissance and medieval buildings, and its cobbled streets make for some pleasant wandering, but it’s a modest sort of place: target it as a half-day trip from Milan, en route towards the richer pickings of Mantua.

Arrival, information and accommodation Cremona’s train station is on Via Dante, ten minutes’ walk north of the main Piazza del Comune, linked to the centre by bus #1. The tourist office (daily 9am–12.30pm & 3–6pm, June–Aug closed Sun afternoon; T 0372.407.269, W turismo.comune .cremona.it) is on Piazza del Comune, opposite the Duomo.

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As for accommodation, the Duomo, Via Gonfalonieri 13 (T 0372.35.242, W www .hotelduomocremona.com; 2 ), is very central, offering bright, air-conditioned rooms, while Dellearti Design Hotel, Via Bonomelli 8 (T 0372.23.131, W www .dellearti.com; 4), is aimed at chi-chi urbanites who like their contemporary styling – rather incongruous for sleepy Cremona. The campsite Parco al Po is at Lungo Po Europa 12 (T 0372.21.268, W www.campingcremonapo.it; April–Sept; bus #1). L OMBARDY AND THE L AKE S

The Town The centre of Cremona is the splendid Piazza del Comune, a narrow space dominated by monumental architecture. The town’s other main sight, the Museo Civico, is a short stroll from here, while there are a couple of appealing churches a little further out of the centre. Piazza del Comune

| Cremona

The west side of Piazza del Comune is the least dramatic, though its buildings, both thirteenth-century – the red-brick Loggia dei Militia (formerly headquarters of the town’s soldiery) and the arched Palazzo del Comune – are lavish. In the northeast corner of the square looms the gawky Romanesque Torrazzo, at 112m one of Italy’s tallest medieval towers. Built in the mid-thirteenth century and bearing a ﬁne Renaissance clock dating from 1583, it can be climbed for excellent views (Tues–Sun 10am–1pm & 2.30–6pm; €4, joint ticket with Baptistry €5). Adjacent stands the Duomo (Mon–Sat 7.30am–noon & 3.30–7pm, Sun 10.30–11am & 3.30–5.30pm), connected to the Torrazzo by way of a Renaissance loggia. The Duomo’s huge facade, made up of classical, Romanesque and fancy Gothic elements, focuses on a rose window from 1274. The interior is rather oppressive – lofty and dim, marked by the dark stone of its piers, and covered by naïve frescoes done in the sixteenth century. Also of note are the ﬁfteenth-century pulpits, decorated with ﬁne reliefs. The south side of the square features the octagonal Baptistry (Tues–Sun 10am–1pm & 2.30–6pm; €2, joint ticket with Torrazzo €5), dating from the late twelfth century. Its vast bare-brick interior is rather severe, though lightened by the twin columns in each bay and a series of upper balconies. Directly opposite the Duomo, the Palazzo del Comune has a small exhibition of nine historic violins in its upstairs Sala dei Violini (Tues–Sat 9am–6pm, Sun 10am–6pm; €6, joint ticket with Museo Civico €10), including a very early example made by Andrea Amati in 1566, as well as later instruments by Amati’s pupils, Guarneri and Stradivari. There are recordings of the different instruments; at certain times of the day you can hear one of them being played live (check times with the tourist office). The rest of town

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The pilastered Palazzo Affaitati, at Via Ugolani Dati 4 – a pleasant ten-minute stroll north of Piazza del Comune – holds the Museo Civico “Ala Ponzone” (Tues–Sat 9am–6pm, Sun 10am–6pm; €7, joint ticket with Sala dei Violini €10), displaying a pedestrian collection of mainly Cremonese art. Head upstairs to a suite of eighteenth-century rooms – ﬁlled with the sound of recorded violin music – which hold the Museo Stradivariano, displaying models, paper patterns, tools and acoustic diagrams from Stradivari’s workshop. An informative video helps to unravel the mysteries of the violin-maker’s art. Southwest of Piazza del Comune, on Via Tibaldi, the church of San Pietro al Po has better frescoes than the Duomo; look for Bernadino Gatti’s hearty Feeding of the Five Thousand in the refectory next door. If you like that, you’ll love San Sigismondo in the eastern outskirts (bus #2 from Piazza Cavour). Built in 1441, its Mannerist

decor is among Italy’s best, ranging from Camillo Boccaccino’s soaring apse fresco to Giulio Campi’s Annunciation, in which Gabriel ﬂoats in mid-air.

Eating and drinking

Duomo Via Gonfalonieri 13, down the side of the Palazzo del Comunale T0372.352.96. The tables outside this popular restaurant/pizzeria make a ﬁne, sunny spot to tuck into a crispy pizza. Closed Sun. La Sosta Via Sicardo 9 T 0372.456.656. By the main piazza, this attractive osteria does a great line in Cremonese specialities at reasonable prices. Closed Sun dinner & Mon. Porta Mosa Via Santa Maria Betlem 11 T 0372.411.803. This simple osteria, a 10-minute

walk east of Piazza del Comune, serves delicious local dishes, washed down by well-chosen wines. Closed Sun. Portici del Comune Piazza del Comune 2. Nicest – and best-located – of the many pleasant pavement cafés and gelaterie dotted around the main squares, in a plum position under the arches directly opposite the Duomo’s facade. Closed Tues.

Aldous Huxley called it the most romantic city in the world. With a skyline of domes and towers rising above its three encircling lakes, MANTUA (Mantova) is undeniably evocative. This was where Romeo heard of Juliet’s supposed death, and where Verdi set Rigoletto. Its history is one of equally operatic plots, most of them acted out by the Gonzaga, one of Renaissance Italy’s richest and most powerful families, who ruled the town for three centuries. Its cobbled squares retain a medieval aspect, and there are two splendid palaces: the Palazzo Ducale, containing Mantegna’s stunning fresco of the Gonzaga family and court, and Palazzo Te, whose frescoes by the ﬂashy Mannerist Giulio Romano encompass steamy erotica and illusionistic fantasy. Mantua’s lakes, and the ﬂat surrounding plain, offer numerous boat cruises and cycling routes.

| Mantua (Mantova) and around

Mantua (Mantova) and around

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Numerous cosy osterie serve Cremona’s excellent local specialities, especially bollito misto – a mixture of boiled meats, served with mostarda di frutta (also known as mostarda di Cremona), fruit suspended in a sweet mustard syrup. The excellent gastronomie that cluster around Corso Garibaldi and Corso Campi make good places to put together a picnic.

Exploring Mantua: bikes and boats Several companies offer cruises on Mantua’s lakes – bulges in the course of the River Mincio – and on the river itself down to its conﬂuence with the Po, ranging from one-hour jaunts (around €8) up to full-day voyages as far as Venice (around €77). All run daily but must be booked in advance: usually a day ahead, but sometimes an hour or so will do. The leading company is Motonavi Andes Negrini, whose ticket ofﬁce is at Via San Giorgio 2 (T0376.322.875, Wwww.motonaviandes.it), three minutes’ walk from its jetty on Lago Inferiore. Navi Andes (T0376.324.506, Wwww.naviandes.com) is a separate concern, based at its jetty on Lago di Mezzo. Alternatives include the Barcaioli del Mincio (T0376.349.292, Wwww.ﬁumemincio.it), local boatmen operating small craft upstream from Mantua. Many of the boats accept bikes, so you can make a great day-trip – a morning on the boat, a picnic lunch at, say, Rivalta, then a gentle cycle-ride back in the afternoon. The tourist ofﬁce has a good map (also on their website) detailing cycle routes, plus information on bus, boat and train combinations. You can rent bikes (around €10 a day) from Mantua Bike, Viale Piave 22/B (T0376.220.909), and La Rigola at Via Trieste 7 (T0376.366.677).

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| Mantua (Mantova) and around

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Arrival, information and accommodation

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Mantua’s train station – with services from Milan, Cremona and Verona – and nearby bus station are a ten-minute walk west of the centre (buses from Verona drop off ﬁrst in the more convenient Piazza Sordello). The city is small enough to cover on foot: even the walk south to Palazzo Te is only twenty minutes, although you’ll feel like a local if you pedal around on a bike (see box, p.173). Bus #1 follows a circular route linking the train station, the central squares and Palazzo Te. The well-organized tourist office is at Piazza Mantegna 6 (daily 9.30am–6.30pm; T 0376.432.432, W www.turismo.mantova.it). If you want to

stay in the countryside, ask the tourist office about the numerous agriturismo options (W www.agriturismomantova.it) in this part of Lombardy. Hotels and B&Bs

Rechigi Via Calvi 30 T0376.320.781, Wwww.rechigi.com. Professional four-star hotel in the historic centre. The lobby is all gleaming marble and contemporary art; the rooms are calmer, while still being modern and functional. Private parking. 5

Hostel

The City The centre of Mantua is made up of four attractive squares, each connected to the next. Lively Piazza Mantegna is overlooked by the massive Sant’Andrea church. Beside it is the lovely Piazza delle Erbe, with ﬁne arcades facing the medieval Rotonda church. To the north, through medieval passageways and across Piazza Broletto, the long, cobbled slope of Piazza Sordello is dominated by the Palazzo Ducale, the fortress and residence of the Gonzaga, packed with Renaissance art. Mantua’s other great palace stands in its own gardens 1.5km south of the historic centre – Palazzo Te, adorned with sensational frescoes. Piazza Mantegna

Dominating Piazza Mantegna – a wedge-shaped open space at the end of the arcaded shopping thoroughfares of Corso Umberto and Via Roma – is the facade of Leon Battista Alberti’s church of Sant’Andrea, an unﬁnished basilica that says a lot about the ego of Lodovico II Gonzaga, who commissioned it in 1470. He felt that the existing medieval church was neither impressive enough to represent the splendour of his state nor large enough to hold the droves of people who packed in every Ascension Day to see the holy relic of Christ’s blood which had been found on the site. Lodovico brought in the court architect, Luca Fancelli, to oversee Alberti’s plans. There was a bitchy rivalry between the two, and when, on one of his many visits, Alberti fell and hurt a testicle, Fancelli gleefully told him: “God lets men punish themselves in the place where they sin.” Work started in earnest after Alberti’s death in 1472, and took more than two decades to complete. The Classical facade is focused on an immense triumphal arch supported on giant pilasters. Inside (daily 8am–noon & 3–7pm), the vast, column-free space is roofed with one large barrel-vault, echoing the facade. The octagonal balustrade at the crossing stands above the crypt where the holy relic is kept in two vases, copies of originals designed by Cellini and stolen by the Austrians in 1846; to see them, ask the sacristan. The painter Mantegna is buried in the ﬁrst chapel on the left, his tomb topped with a bust of the artist that is said to be a self-portrait. The wall-paintings in the chapel were designed by Mantegna and executed by students, Correggio being one.

| Mantua (Mantova) and around

Ostello del Mincio Via Porto 23, Rivalta T0376.653.924, W www.ostellodelmincio.org. Fine hostel 10km west of town, in a sleepy village on the River Mincio, with canoes and bicycles available for rent and boat trips. It stands 5km from Castellucchio train station (on the Cremona–Mantua line), and the hourly bus #13 (Mantua–Asola; W www.apam.it) stops outside. There are double and family rooms as well as dorms. Dorms €14.50, rooms 1

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Armellino Via Cavour 67 T346.314.8060, Wwww.bebarmellino.it. Three large beautifully furnished double rooms in an eighteenth-century palace right in the heart of town. There’s a pretty garden for drinks and breakfast is served in the period dining room. No credit cards. 2 Broletto Via Accademia 1 T 0376.326.784, Wwww.hotelbroletto.com. Newly refurbished boutique hotel in the very centre of town. Service is cheery and the smart en-suite rooms are attractive if a little small. 4 Corte San Girolamo Via San Girolamo 1, Gambarara T0376.391.018, Wwww.agriturismo-sangirolamo.it. Occupying a renovated watermill 3km north of town on the cycle route from Mantua to Lake Garda, this serene agriturismo has en-suite doubles, plus a fourperson apartment. Bicycles available. 2

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Piazza delle Erbe and around

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Beside Sant’Andrea, Piazza Mantegna gives way to atmospheric Piazza delle Erbe, with a small daily market and cafés sheltering in the arcades below the thirteenth-century Palazzo della Ragione. Sunk below the present street level is the eleventh-century Rotonda di San Lorenzo (daily 10am–1pm & 3–6pm, Sat & Sun 10am–6pm), which was partially demolished in the sixteenth century and used as a courtyard by the surrounding houses. Rebuilt in 1908 and beautifully restored in recent years, it still contains traces of twelfth- and thirteenth-century frescoes. At the northern end of Piazza delle Erbe, a passage leads under the red-brick Broletto, or medieval town hall, into the smaller Piazza Broletto, where you can view two reminders of how “criminals” were treated under the Gonzagas. The bridge to the right has metal rings embedded in its vault, to which victims were chained by the wrists, before being hauled up by a pulley and suspended in mid-air; while on your far left – actually on the corner of Piazza Sordello – the tall medieval Torre della Gabbia has a cage attached in which prisoners were displayed. A diversion up Via Accademia leads to the Baroque Teatro Bibiena (Tues–Sun 9.30am–12.30pm & 3–6pm; €2), a splendid, intimate theatre, its curved walls lined with boxes. Mozart gave the inaugural concert here on January 16, 1770, a few days before his fourteenth birthday. Piazza Sordello and the Palazzo Ducale

Northeast of Piazza Broletto, Piazza Sordello is a large, sombre square, headed by the Baroque facade of the Duomo. Flanked by touristy pavement cafés and grim crenellated palaces built by the Bonacolsi (the Gonzagas’ predecessors) the Duomo conceals a rich interior, designed by Giulio Romano after the church had been gutted by ﬁre in 1545. Opposite, the Palazzo del Capitano and Magna Domus form the core of the Palazzo Ducale, an enormous complex that was once the largest palace in Europe. In

The Gonzaga At the time of the coup of 1328, when Luigi Gonzaga seized Mantua from the Bonacolsi, the Gonzaga family were wealthy local landowners living outside Mantua on vast estates with an army of retainers. Luigi nominated himself Captain of the People, a role which quickly became hereditary, eventually growing to that of marquis. Mantua’s renaissance began in 1459, when a visiting pope complained that the city was muddy, marshy and riddled with fever. This spurred his host, Lodovico II Gonzaga, to give the city a facelift, ranging from paving the squares and repainting the shops to engaging Andrea Mantegna as court artist and calling in the prestigious architectural theorist Leon Battista Alberti to design the monumental church of Sant’Andrea, one of the most inﬂuential buildings of the early Renaissance. Later, Lodovico’s grandson, Francesco II (1466–1519), swelled the family coffers by hiring himself out as a mercenary – money his wife, Isabella d’Este, spent amassing a prestigious collection of paintings, sculpture and objets d’art. Under Isabella’s son, Federico II, Gonzaga fortunes reached their height; his marriage in 1531 to the heiress of the duchy of Monferrato procured a ducal title for the family, while he continued the policy of self-gloriﬁcation by commissioning an out-of-town villa – the Palazzo Te – for himself and his mistress. Federico’s descendants were for the most part less colourful characters, one notable exception being Vincenzo I, whose debauchery and corruption provided the inspiration for Verdi’s licentious duke in Rigoletto. After Vincenzo’s death in 1612, the then-bankrupt court was forced to sell many of the family treasures to Charles I of England (many are still in London’s Victoria and Albert Museum), just three years before the arrival of the Habsburgs.

its heyday it covered 34,000 square metres and had a population of over a thousand; when it was sacked by the Habsburgs in 1630 eighty carriages were needed to carry away the two thousand works of art contained in its ﬁve hundred rooms. Palazzo Ducale practicalities

Inside the Palazzo Ducale

| Mantua (Mantova) and around

The tour starts in the Corte Vecchia, the oldest wing of the palace. In the Sala del Morone (room 1) hangs a painting from 1494 by Domenico Morone showing the Expulsion of the Bonacolsi from Piazza Sordello, with the Duomo sporting its old, Gothic facade (replaced in the eighteenth century). In the Sala del Pisanello (room 3) are the fragments of a half-ﬁnished fresco by Pisanello, discovered in 1969 behind two layers of plaster. The splendid Neoclassical Sala degli Specchi (Hall of Mirrors; room 6) was originally an open loggia, bricked up in 1773; the barrel-vaulted ceiling holds a fresco depicting teams of horses being driven from Night to Day. In the Sala degli Arcieri (Hall of Archers; room 7), a huge canvas by Rubens shows the Gonzaga family of 1604 seated comfortably in the presence of the Holy Trinity; look out for Vincenzo with his handlebar moustache. The picture was originally part of a huge triptych, but Napoleonic troops carried off two-thirds of it in 1797 (one part is now in Antwerp, the other in Nancy) and chopped the remaining third into saleable chunks of portraiture; some gaps remain. Around the room is a curious frieze of horses, glimpsed behind curtains. Beyond the Sala del Labirinto (room 9), named for the maze on its painted and gilded wooden ceiling, the Sala di Amore e Psiche (room 11) is an intimate space with a wooden ﬂoor and an eighteenth-century tondo of Cupid and Psyche in the ceiling. From here follow signs along corridors, down stairs and over a moat into the fourteenth-century Castello di San Giorgio, which contains the palace’s principal treasure: Mantegna’s frescoes of the Gonzaga family in the Camera degli Sposi (room 17). Painted between 1465–74, they’re naturalistic pieces of work, giving a vivid impression of the Marquis Lodovico, his wife Barbara and their family, and of the relationships between them. In the main fresco Lodovico discusses a letter with a courtier while his wife looks on; their youngest daughter leans on her mother’s lap, about to bite into an apple, while an older son and daughter look towards the door, where an ambassador from another court is being welcomed. The other fresco, divided into three sections, shows Lodovico welcoming his son Francesco back from Rome. In the background are the Holy Roman Emperor Frederick III and the king of Denmark. Don’t forget to look up: the ceiling features another nice piece of trompe l’oeil, in which two women, peering down from a balustrade, have balanced a tub of plants on a pole and appear to be on the verge of letting it tumble into the room.

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Admission (Tues–Sun 8.45am–7.15pm, last entry 6.20pm; €6.50; W www .mantovaducale.it) is from Piazza Sordello, where you can also pick up an audioguide (€4, or €5.50 for two). In winter (Nov–March) you must take a guided tour (free); these start every ﬁfteen minutes, or when twenty people have gathered, and last an hour and a half. For conservation reasons, only 1500 people a day are allowed to visit the Camera degli Sposi (also called the Camera Picta). In the peak season for school trips (mid-March to mid-June and Sept to mid-Oct), individuals must book in advance for a timed slot for admission to this room, on T 041.241.1897 (press 1 for English-speaking operators; Mon–Fri 9am–6pm, Sat 9am–2pm). Booking costs €1 extra, payable on arrival.

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Next comes the sixteenth-century Corte Nuova wing, designed by Giulio Romano for Federico II Gonzaga. After several formal audience rooms you come to the Sala di Troia (room 22), decorated with Romano’s brilliantly colourful scenes from the Iliad and Aeneid. The adjacent Galleria dei Marmi (room 23), with delicate ﬂoral and wildlife motifs, looks out over the Cortile della Cavallerizza (Courtyard of the Riding School). Along the courtyard’s long side runs the immense Galleria della Mostra (room 24), once hung with paintings by Titian, Caravaggio, Breughel and others, all now dispersed; in their place are 64 Roman marble busts. Push on through the smaller rooms and up more stairs to the stunning Sala dello Zodiaco (room 33), whose late sixteenth-century ceiling is spangled with stars and constellations. The adjoining Rococo Sala dei Fiumi (room 34) features an elaborate painted allegory of Mantua’s six rivers, ﬂanked by two over-the-top stucco-and-mosaic fountains. Save some wonder for rooms 35–37, beside the Sala dello Zodiaco. These comprise the Stanze degli Arazzi, three rooms (and a small chapel) altered in the eighteenth century to house nine sixteenth-century Flemish tapestries of exceptional virtuosity, depicting stories from the Acts of the Apostles, made from Raphael’s cartoons for the Sistine Chapel (now in London’s Victoria and Albert Museum).

| Mantua (Mantova) and around

South of the centre

A twenty-minute walk from the centre of Mantua, at the end of the long spine of Via Principe Amedeo and Via Acerbi, the Palazzo Te is the later of the city’s two Gonzaga palaces, and equally compelling. On the way is Giulio Romano’s Fish Market – to the left off Piazza Martiri Belﬁori – a short covered bridge over the river, which is still used as a market building. Following Via Principe Amedeo south, the Casa di Giulio Romano, off to the right at Via Poma 18 – overshadowed by the monster-studded Palazzo di Giustizia – was meant to impress the sophisticated, who would have found the licence taken with the Classical rules of architecture witty. A ﬁve-minute walk away on busy Via Acerbi stands the austere brick Casa del Mantegna, now used as a contemporary art space (hours and admission vary). Across the road, the church of San Sebastiano (mid-March to mid-Nov Tues–Sun 10.30am–12.30pm & 3–5pm; €1.50), the work of Alberti, is famous as the ﬁrst Renaissance church to be built on a central Greek-cross plan, described as “curiously pagan” by Nikolaus Pevsner. Lodovico II’s son was less polite: “I could not understand whether it was meant to turn out as a church, a mosque or a synagogue.” The bare interior – now deconsecrated – is dedicated to Mantua’s war dead. Palazzo Te

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At the southern end of Via Acerbi, set in its own grounds, the Palazzo Te (Mon 1–6pm, Tues–Sun 9am–6pm, last entry 5.30pm; €8; W www.palazzote.it) was designed by Giulio Romano in the 1520s for playboy Federico Gonzaga and his mistress, Isabella Boschetta. It’s the artist’s greatest work and a renowned Renaissance pleasure dome – originally an island connected to the mainland by bridge, an ideal location for an amorous retreat away from Federico’s wife and the restrictions of life in the Palazzo Ducale. Although the upstairs rooms display paintings and antiquities, the main reason for visiting is to see Giulio’s amazing decorative scheme on the ground ﬂoor. A tour of the palace is like a voyage around Giulio’s imagination, a sumptuous world where very little is what it seems. In the Camera del Sole, the sun and the moon are represented by a pair of horse-drawn chariots viewed from below, giving a ﬁne array of human and equine bottoms on the ceiling. The Sala dei Cavalli holds portraits of prime specimens from the Gonzaga stud-farm (which was also on

Mantua has plenty of excellent, reasonably priced restaurants, many serving local specialities like spezzatino di Mantova (donkey stew), agnoli in brodo (pasta stuffed with cheese and sausage in broth) or the delicious tortelli di zucca (sweet pumpkinﬁlled pasta). If you’re in town on a Saturday, head for the tempting goodies at the farmers’ market in Lungorio IV Novembre (8am–1pm). Al Quadrato Piazza Virgiliana 49 T 0376.368.896. A tranquil spot away from the fray, overlooking the Piazza Virgiliana park north of the centre. Serves good pizzas (€7–8) and tasty ﬁsh dishes. Expect to pay around €25. Closed Mon. Aquila Nigra Vicolo Bonacolsi 4 T0376.327.180, Wwww.aquilanigra.it. A formal restaurant housed in an elegant palazzo just off Piazza Sordello, serving delicious seasonal dishes complemented by an impressive wine list. The ﬁsh and, especially, seafood are highly regarded. Menus are €70/80. There’s also a contemporary bistro next door with a briefer menu at lower prices. Closed Sun, Mon & Aug. Fragoletta Piazza Arche 5/A T 0376.323.300. Over towards the Lago Inferiore, this is a lively osteria shoehorned into a cramped little building. It’s been around since 1748 and remains popular with locals for its well-priced regional cuisine (meals for around €30 a head). Closed Mon. Il Cigno (Trattoria dei Martini) Piazza d’Arco 1 T0376.327.101. Wonderful restaurant occupying

a sixteenth-century mansion in a quiet corner away from the centre, overlooking a beautiful private garden. Choose from the seasonal menu, which includes delectable tortelli di zucca with amaretti and the signature roast guinea-fowl. Service is discreet yet welcoming. There are no prices on the menu, but expect to pay around €80 per head. Closed Mon, Tues & Aug. L’Ochina Bianca Via Finzi 2 T0376.323.700. Cosy osteria where friendly staff serve tasty Mantuan dishes – this is a mainstay of the Italian Slow Food movement, dedicated to promoting quality and conviviality. Five-minute walk west from Piazza delle Erbe. Closed Mon. Tiratappi Piazza Alberti 30 T0376.322.366. Atmospheric old wine-bar on this little-visited square, down a concealed passageway beside the Sant’Andrea church. Its terrace tables are a sun-trap – perfect for sampling Mantuan vintages on a slow afternoon. The cuisine is all local as well: mid-priced specialities served with care. Closed lunch on Tues & Thurs.

| Mantua (Mantova) and around

Eating and drinking

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the island), standing before an illusionistic background in which simulated marble, fake pilasters and mock reliefs surround views of painted landscapes through nonexistent windows. The function of the Sala di Amore e Psiche, further on, is undocumented, but the graphically erotic frescoes, and the proximity to Federico’s private quarters, are powerful clues. The ceiling paintings tell the story of Cupid and Psyche with more dizzying sotto in su (“from the bottom up”) works by Giulio, while the walls are covered with orgiastic wedding-feast scenes, at which drunken gods in various states of undress are attended by a menagerie of real and mythical beasts. On one wall, Mars and Venus are climbing out of the bath together, their cave watered by a river-god lounging above who is gushing with deliberately ambiguous liquid, ﬂowing from his beard, a vessel he’s holding and his genitals. Other scenes show Olympia about to be raped by a half-serpentine Jupiter and Pasiphae disguising herself as a cow in order to seduce a bull – all watched over by the giant Polyphemus, perched above the ﬁreplace, clutching the pan-pipes with which he sang of his love for Galatea before murdering her lover. Polyphemus and his fellow giants are revenged in the extraordinary Sala dei Giganti beyond – “the most fantastic and frightening creation of the whole Renaissance”, according to the critic Frederick Hartt – showing the destruction of the giants by the gods. As if at some kind of advanced disaster movie, the destruction appears to be all around: cracking pillars, toppling brickwork and screaming giants, mangled and crushed by great chunks of architecture, appearing to crash down into the room. Stamp your feet and you’ll discover another parallel to modern cinema – the sound effects that Giulio created by turning the room into an echo chamber.

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Northern Lombardy: lakes and mountains L OMBARDY AND THE L AKE S

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“One can’t describe the beauty of the Italian lakes, nor would one try if one could.” Henry James’s sentiment hasn’t stopped generations of writers producing reams of purple prose in the attempt. Yet, in truth, the Lakes just about deserve it: their beauty is extravagant, and it’s not surprising that the most romantic and melodramatic of Italy’s opera composers – Verdi, Rossini and Bellini – rented villas here in which to work. British and German Romantic poets also enthused about the Lakes, and in doing so planted them ﬁrmly in northern-European imaginations. The result is a massive inﬂux every summer of tourists from cooler climes, come to savour the Italian dream and to take gulps at what Keats called “the beaker of the warm south”. Garda is the largest lake, and one of the best centres in Europe for windsurﬁng and sailing. It is also visually stunning, especially in its mountainous northern stretches – yet Como matches (or, some say, betters) it, with forested slopes rising directly from the water’s edge. On both lakes, the luxuriance of the waterfront vegetation is equalled by the opulence of the local villas and palazzi; both also offer good hiking in the mountainous hinterland. Further west, Maggiore is less popular yet just as beautiful, with several sedate ﬁn-de-siècle resorts. There are, however, some good walks, and superb formal gardens adorning Isola Bella. Nearby, the picture-postcard charms of Orta San Giulio, the main village on Lake Orta – with its steepled offshore islet – ensure that it is a popular spot, yet this too can be a wonderfully romantic place to hole up. The hilly terrain between the lakes is sliced up by mountain valleys – largely residential and industrial in their lower reaches though mostly untouched further up, hosting lots of modest ski resorts in winter (none worth making a special trip for). The nearby city of Brescia is best treated as a day-trip, though its neighbour Bergamo is a lovely place to stay, with an old walled hilltop quarter that ranks as one of the most alluring in Italy.

Getting around the Lakes Lakes Garda, Como and Maggiore are all well served by ferries and hydrofoils, which dock at jetties that are usually conveniently positioned on the main lakeside piazzas: travelling by water makes a lot more sense than struggling through lakeside trafﬁc. All three also have useful car ferry routes across the centre of the lakes. For timetables and fares covering all three lakes, check Wwww.navigazionelaghi .it or consult the posters displayed at every lakeside jetty (and local tourist ofﬁces). Prices aren’t expensive – the two-hour voyage from Como to Bellagio is €8.20, for example, while it costs €18 to take a small car plus two people across Lake Garda – and there are good-value day-passes available, with some discounts for children and EU citizens over 65. Trains serve several points on all three lakes, and buses also run regularly up and down the shores. Tourist ofﬁces can advise about routes and timings, or check Wwww .vcoinbus.it for transport around the western shore of Lake Maggiore (in Piemonte), Wwww.aptv.it for buses along the eastern shore of Lake Garda (in the Veneto), and Wwww.trasporti.regione.lombardia.it for everything in between.

Lake Maggiore

Stresa

Arrival, information and accommodation

| Lake Maggiore

The Maggiore of the tourist brochures begins at STRESA, whose popularity as a resort began in 1906, when the Simplon Tunnel opened, the ﬁnal link in a chain of railways connecting Lake Geneva to Milan, and thus northern Europe to the Mediterranean. International trains, including the Orient Express, were routed through Stresa, which quickly became a holiday retreat for Europe’s high society.

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For generations of overland travellers, weary of journeying over the Alps, LAKE MAGGIORE (Lago Maggiore) has been a ﬁrst taste of Italy: the sight of limpid blue waters, green hills and exotic vegetation is evidence of arrival in the warm south. With palms and oleanders lining the lakeside promenades and a peaceful, serene air, Maggiore – at 66km, Italy’s longest lake – may not be somewhere for thrill-seekers, but it is seductively relaxing. Note that in winter (Nov–Easter) many hotels close down and attractions may be shut. The majority of tourists head for the western shore, from where the sumptuous gardens and villas of the Borromean Islands are within easy reach. The area retains much of its charm: the genteel old resort of Stresa is still a convenient base, linked by high-speed train to Milan (1hr) and by bus and boat to all points around the lake. Across the bay, Verbania is also well connected by train, bus and ferry, while further north, enchanting Cannobio – the last stop before Switzerland – is popular with families and a good place from which to explore Maggiore’s hilly hinterland. For tourist information, check W www.distrettolaghi.it.

From Stresa’s train station, walk right to the crossroads, then left on Via Duchessa di Genova for 200m down to the lakefront, where the tourist office stands beside the jetty (daily 10am–12.30pm & 3–6.30pm; Nov–Feb closed Sat & Sun; T 0323.31.308, W www.distrettolaghi.it). Stresa’s lakefront is lined with grand palace hotels, including the Grand Hôtel des Îles Borromées (which featured in Hemingway’s A Farewell to Arms), the Grand Hotel Bristol, the Regina Palace and several more; all are old-fashioned and opulent. At the other end of the spectrum, Luina, Via Garibaldi 21 (T 0323.30.285; 2), is a friendly two-star in the centre, with compact rooms (some en suite) and a good-value restaurant serving home cooking. Nearby, the house-proud Hotel Fiorentino, Via A.M. Bolongaro 9 (T 0323.30.254, W www.hotelﬁorentino .com; 2), has comfortable en-suite rooms above a family-run restaurant with a sunny courtyard. The lakeside rooms and self-catering at La Luna nel Porto (T 0323.93.4466, W www.lalunanelporto.it; 3) are a particularly appealing alternative. The Town and around

Today, Stresa is a busy little place, but its greatest days have passed. Stroll the ﬂoral promenade, take in the lake views – which are worth coming for – head out to the islands, then retire to a waterside bench with an ice cream. Separating Stresa from Lake Orta (see p.185) is the Mottarone mountain, rising to 1491m. From the top – accessed by cable car (funivia; daily every 20min 9.30am–5.30pm; €10.50 one way, €17.50 return; W www.stresa-mottarone.it), rising from the Carciano ferry stop, 750m north of Stresa – the views are impressive, stretching to Monte Rosa on the Swiss border. Its wooded western slopes are a favourite destination for rambles and family outings. You can rent mountain bikes at the base station (€22 a day including cable-car ticket; W www.bicico.it). The easy walk up, signposted as path 1, takes four hours.

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Eating

There’s a good choice of eating options in Stresa for anything from ice cream sundaes to celebratory meals. Choose carefully, as the mass-tourist focus of some places can affect the quality.

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Il Vicoletto Vicolo del Poncivo 3 T 0323.93.2102. Just round the corner from Osteria degli Amici, this is a smart newcomer serving well-judged pan-Italian dishes. Closed Thurs out of season. La Botte Via Mazzini 6 T0323.30.462. The friendly host at this snug restaurant serves up Piemontese game, polenta and pasta dishes. Closed Thurs. Osteria degli Amici Via A.M. Bolongaro 31 T 0323.30.453. This simple osteria serves tasty

risotto and ﬁsh on an attractive vine-covered terrace. Closed Wed. Taverna del Pappagallo Via Principessa Margherita 46 T0323.30.411. A very popular pizzeria serving pizzas bubbling from the woodﬁred oven as well as good-quality local fare. There’s a courtyard outside for warmer weather. Closed Wed.

The Borromean Islands

| Lake Maggiore

Lake Maggiore’s leading attractions are three islands rising from the bay between Stresa and Pallanza – served by ferries from both, plus Carciano. All three are often dubbed the Borromean Islands (Isole Borromee), though strictly speaking only two are property of the Borromeo family (originally bankers, raised to nobility in the 1450s and still prominent locally). Romantics – if they can bear the crowds and the souvenir tat – will be knocked for six: the short voyage from Stresa to Isola Bella (mid-March to mid-Oct daily 9am–5.30pm; €12, joint ticket with Isola Madre €17.50; W www.borromeoturismo.it) is Italian Lakes fantasy brought to life. In 1630, Carlo III Borromeo began a redesign of this modest rock: soil was brought across from the mainland, a villa, fountains and statues were built, white peacocks imported, and terraces of orange and lemon trees, camellias, magnolias, box trees, laurels and cypresses carved out. Carlo’s son Vitaliano died in 1690 with most of the work completed. As well as roaming the sumptuous Baroque gardens, complete with obelisks and classical statuary, dip into the island’s opulent palazzo, which boasts a banqueting hall, ballroom, throne room and a three-storey domed salone, as well as mirror- and shell-encrusted grottoes down at water level. It’s deﬁnitely worth seeing.

Santa Caterina del Sasso

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Aside from Isola Bella, the most popular ferry trip from Stresa is across to the hermitage of Santa Caterina del Sasso (March daily 9am–noon & 2–5pm; April–Oct daily 8.30am–noon & 2.30–6pm; Nov–Feb Sat & Sun 9am–noon & 2–5pm; free; Wwww .provincia.va.it/santacaterina). This beautiful little cliffside monastery – visible only from the water – is well worth a visit, though it can get crowded. The site dates back to 1170, when a local sailor was caught in a storm, invoked the help of St Catherine of Alexandria and survived; he withdrew to a cave, where local people began construction of a votive chapel. By 1620 fourteen monks lived here; today, it is still home to a Carmelite monk and seven oblates. The complex is tiny: you could walk from one end to the other in three minutes. Eighty steps up from the jetty you arrive at the lovely entrance gallery (1624), with arches looking out over the lake, which leads to the South Convent. Inside is the Gothic Chapterhouse, decorated with a pristine fresco from 1439 of St Eligius healing a horse. Ahead, beneath the four Gothic arches of the Small Convent (1315) is the church, with its stubby Romanesque bell tower and graceful Renaissance porch; a fresco of God the Father, dated 1610, adorns the Baroque vault above the high altar.

Ferries move on to Isola Madre (same hours; €10, joint ticket €17.50), larger but less visited than Isola Bella, with a lusher, wilder garden – home to carob, hibiscus and banana plants, a colony of parrots and Europe’s largest Kashmir cypress, alongside a small, tasteful palazzo housing a collection of eighteenth-century puppets. Boats also serve Hemingway’s favourite island, Isola dei Pescatori (or Isola Superiore), which retains a certain charm, despite the trinket shops. There are no sights as such, but it has some decent restaurants and is a good spot for a picnic.

| Lake Maggiore

Across the bay from Stresa lies VERBANIA (a conglomerate town including neighbouring villages Suna, Intra and Pallanza), whose title recalls Lacus Verbanus, the Roman name for verbena-fringed Lake Maggiore. The scenic lakefront is lined with manicured ﬂower beds and dapper gelaterie, bars and hotels; Intra’s cobbled centre is a shoppers’ paradise with boutiques for all pockets lining the alleyways. Verbania’s balmy climate prompted Captain Neil McEacharn, scion of a Scottish industrial family, to buy the lakeside Villa Táranto in 1931; the botanical garden he created (April–Oct daily 8.30am–6.30pm; €9; W www.villataranto.it) – a thirty-minute walk northeast of Pallanza towards Intra, also served by regular boats – remains exceptional, taking in giant Amazonian lilies, lotus blossoms, Japanese maples and more, laid out with geometric precision. The main tourist office is at Corso Zanitello 8 in Pallanza (April–Sept daily 9am–1pm & 3–6pm; Oct–March Mon, Tues & Thurs 9am–1pm & 3–5.30pm, Wed & Fri 9am–1pm; T 0323.503.249), with a branch by the Pallanza landing-stage (Mon–Sat 8.30–11.30am & 2–7pm; T 0323.557.676, W www.verbania-turismo .it). The lake’s only hostel lies a signposted ten-minute walk uphill from the Piazza Gramsci bus terminal; it’s a friendly place set in the attractive Villa Congreve, Via delle Rose 7 (T 0323.501.648, W www.ostelloverbania.it; dorms €17; March–Oct), with small dorms, doubles (1 ), family rooms and resourceful staff. As for restaurants, A Dei Cigni, Via delle Magnolie (T 0323.558.842; closed Tues), offers excellent-quality ﬁsh-biased meals at under €30 per head; reserve a table on the terrace looking over the trees to the Borromean Islands or in the informal dining rooms. From Intra, just north of Pallanza, a car ferry shuttles frequently over to Laveno, from where trains run direct to Milan, and roads connect to Varese and the A8 autostrada.

L OMBARDY AND THE L AKE S

Verbania

Cannobio and around CANNOBIO, 25km north of Pallanza (and 5km from the Swiss border), is one of Lake Maggiore’s most appealing places to stay, its lakefront road of pastel-washed houses giving onto a tightly tangled web of stepped alleyways and stone houses. The town’s only sight is the Santuario della Pietà, a Bramante-inspired church beside the landing stage with a curious openwork cupola, built to house a painting of the pietà which supposedly bled in 1522. Just north is a public beach, backed by pleasant lawns with trees and picnic tables. The SS34 main road passes through Cannobio as Viale Vittorio Veneto; the tourist office (Mon–Sat 9am–noon & 4.30–7pm, Sun 9am–noon; T 0323.71.212, W www.procannobio.it) is signposted off at Via A. Giovanola 25. There are several lakeside campsites north of town, many with bungalows and caravans. From the tourist office, head down cobbled, pedestrianized Via Umberto I to ﬁnd the serene Hotel Pironi, Via Marconi 35 (T 0323.70.624, W www.pironihotel.it; March–Nov; 5 ), a converted ﬁfteenth-century convent in the old quarter; room 12 has a private, frescoed balcony. Just round the corner is the equally special Hotel Cannobio on the main waterfront Piazza Vittorio Emanuele III 6 (T 0323.739.639,

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W www.hotelcannobio.com; 5 ), with romantic lake views and thoughtful staff. Friendly, family-run Antica Stallera, Via Zacchero 7 (T 0323.71.595, W www .anticastallera.com; 5 ), has a vine-shaded garden restaurant overlooked by simple, modern en-suite rooms and is also self-catering. Lo Scalo (T 0323.71.480, W www.loscalo.com; closed Mon, Tues lunch), in a fourteenth-century palazzo on the lakefront piazza, is the best restaurant in town, serving classic Piemontese specialities; expect around €75 a head, with wine. Otherwise aim for A La Streccia (T 0323.70.575; closed Tues), up a narrow alley behind the lakefront, which offers very good Piemontese food – including home-made breads and pasta – in a rustic, low-ceilinged dining room, or the pleasant garden tables at Antica Stallera (see above). In summer the lakefront gelaterie are great for a coffee or light meal, as is the bar below Hotel Pironi (see p.183). Inland along the Val Cannobina

| Lake Maggiore

Extending behind Cannobio, the wooded Val Cannobina offers beautiful views and little-visited stone-built hamlets. Buses climb high into the valley, on one route to Falmenta, marooned in the jagged shadow of Monte Vadà (1836m), and on another to Cúrsolo, from where a scenic seven-kilometre walk heads past Finero to Malesco in the Val Vigezzo, a stop on the Domodossola–Locarno train line. The tourist office has details of many walks, including along the Linea Cadorna, a well-preserved World War I defence line that snaked across the peaks from the Val d’Ossola down to Cannobio. An 8km cycle and walking path heads off into the valley (rent bikes from the shop on Viale Veneto) to the Orrido di Sant’Anna, a spectacular rocky gorge surrounded by wooded slopes that is a popular picnic spot. Beside the Roman bridge and the chapel is a small river beach and the wonderfully sited restaurant Sant’Anna (T 0323.70.682; Sept–June closed Mon), which offers tasty countrystyle pan-Italian cuisine for around €40 per head. From here the path loops back above the natural springs of Fonte Carlina to the village. The Orrido is also accessible by car off the Val Cannobina road.

The eastern shore

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There is little of compelling interest on Maggiore’s eastern shore, although any of the villages make feasible bases for hiking into the hills behind – and all are on a branch rail line out of Milan Porta Garibaldi (change at Gallarate). From MACCAGNO, an improbably steep track leads straight out into the hills, from where there are paths to tiny Lago Delio. Most interestingly, you can walk to the village of Curiglia, beyond which, from Ponte di Piero, a mule track climbs to the picturesque village of Monteviasco, 500m above. A driveable road also climbs from Maccagno through the woods to Lake Delio; the views looking back at Cannobio, 1000m below on the lake, are breathtaking. Maccagno has simple hotels, or aim for Camin Hotel Colmegna (T 0332.510.855, W www.caminhotel .com; 5 ), a friendly, family-orientated place 4km south on the waterfront, with light, bright and comfortable rooms. Its tranquil lakeside gardens and swimming areas are difficult to beat. The commercial town and rail hub of LUINO – with a strollable centro storico and frescoes by Bernardino Luini, a follower of Leonardo, at the oratory of SS Pietro e Paolo – is besieged every Wednesday by people pouring in for what is, purportedly, the largest weekly market in Europe; dodge the tacky handbag and novelty stalls to seek out the tasty food section, piled high with salami and cheeses from all over Italy and Switzerland, olives and fresh-baked bread. Roads are jam-packed from 7am onwards; extra boats and buses serve Luino all day long.

Roughly 25km south of Luino, LAVENO has car-ferries shuttling continuously across to Verbania-Intra. Laveno-Mombello station is on the train line from Luino to Milan Porta Garibaldi (change at Gallarate), while Laveno-Mombello Nord station is a terminus for trains from Milan Nord/Cadorna.

The locals call LAKE ORTA (Lago d’Orta) “Cinderella”, capturing perfectly the reticent beauty of this small lake, with its deep blue waters and intriguing island. Lying west of Lake Maggiore, wholly within Piemonte, it is unmissable for Orta San Giulio, the most captivating medieval village on this – or, perhaps, any – Italian lake, with narrow, cobbled lanes snaking between the wrought-iron balconies of tall, pastel-washed palazzi. The village is unforgettably romantic, but consequently popular: on summer Sundays the approach roads are jammed with traffic (though the charm returns after dark). If you can, visit midweek or out of season.

Occupying the tip of a peninsula on the lake’s eastern shore, ORTA SAN GIULIO is a seductive little bolthole with charm and character in spades. The pace of life is slow, with everything revolving around the main square, Piazza Motta. Arrival, information and accommodation

| Lake Orta

Orta San Giulio

L OMBARDY AND THE L AKE S

Lake Orta

Three buses a day arrive at Orta San Giulio from Stresa. Orta-Miasino train station – on the Novara–Domodossola branch line – is around 3km east: turn left out of the station and walk downhill for about twenty minutes to reach Orta San Giulio. On the way, you’ll pass the tourist office in a hut on Via Panoramica (Wed–Sun 9am–1pm & 2–6pm; T 0322.905.163). The village and the island of San Giulio are traffic-free: follow signs to the big car parks on the hillside above town. Accommodation is good but limited – always book in advance. For alternatives, try the apartments at W www.ortainfo.com or www.ortalakeﬂats.com. Hotels Aracoeli Piazza Motta 34 T 0322.905.173, Wwww.ortainfo.com. Eye-popping design hotel (pronounced ara-chaylee) on the main square; check-in is at Hotel Olina down the street. There are only seven rooms, each stylishly presented with plain white walls, designer furniture, a/c and walk-in showers. Breakfast is gourmet. 5 Contrada dei Monti Via dei Monti 10 T 0322.905.114, W www.lacontradadeimonti.it. Comfortable, well-kept little hotel in an eighteenthcentury house – better value than its neighbours as it’s away from the lake. Many of the stylish rooms overlook a little internal courtyard where breakfast is served in summer. Closed Jan. 3 Leon d’Oro Piazza Motta 42 T0322.911.991, W www.albergoleondoro.it. Long-standing old albergo directly on the waterfront behind the main square, with renovated three-star rooms offering some great lake views. 4

Piccolo Hotel Olina Via Olina 40 T 0322.905.532, W www.ortainfo.com. Little hotel alongside the Olina restaurant in the historic centre, with twelve modern rooms of varying sizes – very clean and attractive. Also has an annexe nearby on Via Poli. Closed Nov to mid-Dec. 3 San Rocco Via Gippini 11 T0322.911.977, Wwww.hotelsanrocco.it. In an unbeatable location on the edge of the village right on the water, this ﬁve-star hotel offers recently refurbished rooms and a swimming pool. 6

Campsite Camping Orta Via Domodossola 28 T0322.90.267, Wwww.campingorta.it. Goodquality site about 1km north of Orta, between the main road and the lake, with nice facilities and a private beach. Open year-round.

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The town and island

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| Lake Como

The central Piazza Motta is ringed on three sides by elegant facades and open on the fourth to the lake and island. Gelaterie, terrace cafés and restaurants share space under the arcades with galleries and boutiques. From here, head northwards on the main street, Via Olina – cobbled, and barely three metres wide – through the village and out for a stroll or a sunbathe on the lakeside promenade. Motorboats do the ﬁve-minute run more or less on demand (€4 return) out to the Isola San Giulio, dominated by a white convent and the Romanesque tower of its basilica. According to legend, the island was the realm of dragons until 390 AD, when Julius, a Christian from Greece, crossed the lake using his staff as a rudder and his cloak as a sail, banished the monsters, founded a sanctuary and thus earned himself a sainthood. The resulting Basilica di San Giulio (April–Sept Mon noon–6.45pm, Tues–Sun 9.30am–6.45pm; Oct–March Mon 2–5pm, Tues–Sun 9.30am–noon & 2–5pm) has an impressively lofty interior. Much of its decoration, including the vaulting, dates from a Baroque eighteenth-century reﬁt, but frescoes from as early as the fourteenth century survive. The ﬁne pulpit was carved from local stone in the early twelfth century with symbols of the four evangelists and images of good winning over evil: note the crocodile locked in battle with the phoenix. From the church, it takes twenty minutes to walk round the island on its one cobbled lane, past a couple of shops, a restaurant and some enticingly scenic picnic spots. Above Orta, the Sacro Monte (9.30am–6.30pm; W www.sacromonteorta.it) – 21 chapels containing life-size, painted terracotta statues acting out scenes from the Bible – winds around the wooded hillsides, making up a devotional route still followed by pilgrims, though as many visitors come simply to admire the views and inhale the pine-scented air. Eating and drinking

It’s easy to gather picnic ingredients at the gastronomie on and off Piazza Motta. The lakeside restaurants like Leon d’Oro and Venus generally offer poorer quality at higher prices than the places listed below but they’re not bad, and the views are wonderful. For better-quality food, try one of the options below. Al Boeuc Via Bersani 28 T0322.915.854. Tucked away from the bustle of the main square, this cosy enoteca has a handful of tables outside in the cobbled lane. Tasty platters of cold meats and local cheeses can be washed down by an excellent range of Piemontese wines. Closed Tues. Caffè Jazz Via Olina 13. This romantic little jazz-bar also has a moderately priced menu of Piemontese specialities. Closed Mon.

Olina Via Olina 40 T0322.905.656. In a relaxed, elegant setting, tasty local specialities are served, along with thoughtful extras like aperitifs on the house. Closed Wed. Pizzeria Annunziata Via Bossi 2. T0322.905.113. A simple, modern, no-nonsense pizzeria offering a wide range of well-cooked pizzas. Closed Thurs.

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Of all the Italian lakes, it’s the forked LAKE COMO (Lago di Como) that comes most heavily praised: Wordsworth thought it “a treasure which the earth keeps to itself ”. Today, despite inroads caused by mass tourism, the lake is still surrounded by abundant vegetation: zigzagging slowly between shores by steamer can seem impossibly romantic. More prosaically, there is also some great walking to be done in the lake’s mountainous hinterland. The principal towns – Como and Lecco – are at the southernmost tips of the lake, while of the other towns and villages, three stand out: Varenna and Bellagio for unrepentant romantics, and Menaggio if you want a pleasant, affordable base for walking, swimming or cycling.

Como As the nearest resort to Milan, standing astride main routes to and from Switzerland, COMO is much visited. Though its outskirts are dotted with factories (which produce luxury silk items for the fashion houses of Milan, Paris and New York), Como’s lakefront walled quarter is pleasant to wander. A funicular climbs wooded slopes nearby to offer wonderful views across the water. The main train station is Como San Giovanni, on the fast line from Milano Centrale to Chiasso; it lies about ten-minutes’ walk west of the centre. Como Nord Lago station – the terminus of a slower line from Milano Nord/Cadorna – stands on the lakefront Piazza Matteotti, alongside the old quarter and adjacent bus station. The tourist office is on Piazza Cavour (Mon–Sat 9am–1pm & 2.30–6pm, Sun 9.30am–12.30pm; closed Sun Oct–April; T 031.269.712, W www.lakecomo.org). Del Duca Piazza Mazzini 12 T 031.264.859, W www.albergodelduca.it. Great little three-star hotel on a picturesque old-town square, a short walk from the lake and the Duomo. Rooms are small, but windows onto the piazza – as well as nice touches like window boxes and some two-person showers – make it special. 4

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A PIAZZA DE ORCHI

| Lake Como

Firenze Piazza Volta 16 T031.300.333, Wwww .centrohotelslagocomo.it. Pleasant mid-range option just back from the lakefront, with comfortable, modernized rooms set mainly around a quiet internal courtyard. Some have balconies over the square. 4 Posta Via Garibaldi 2 T031.266.012, Wwww.hotel posta.net. A Rationalist 1930s Terragni-designed building with good budget rooms in a great central

Hotels

L OMBARDY AND THE L AKE S

Arrival, information and accommodation

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location on Piazza Volta – basic but clean and all en suite. Also some triples and a quad available. Check-in is at Hotel Plinius (Via Garibaldi 33). 3 Quarcino Salita Quarcino 4 T 031.303.934, W www.hotelquarcino.it. A family-run hotel on the northeast side of the old town, near the funicular, with simple, quiet rooms, some with their own balconies overlooking the hillside. The family rooms and suites are particularly good value (€100–115) and there is parking available. 2

Hostel Ostello Villa Olmo Via Bellinzona 2 T031.573.800, Wwww.aighostels.com. Decent HI hostel located within the Villa Olmo grounds; bus #1 or #6 from San Giovanni station, or take the long ﬂight of steps in front of the station and turn left for about 1.5km along Via Borgo Vico. Serves evening meals, has laundry facilities, rents bikes and provides a discount on the funicular. March–Nov. Dorms €16.

The Town

| Lake Como

Lakeside Piazza Cavour is bounded by modern hotels and banks. Via Plinio leads through to the Gothic Broletto, prettily striped in pink, white and grey, alongside the splendid Duomo (daily 7am–noon & 3–7pm), which was begun in the 1390s, when Gothic held sway, but wasn’t completed until 1744, with the addition of a Baroque cupola. The church is reckoned to be Italy’s best example of GothicRenaissance fusion: the fairytale pinnacles, rose windows and buffoonish gargoyles are all Gothic, while the rounded portals and statues of classical ﬁgures such as Pliny the Elder and Younger ﬂanking the main door exemplify the Renaissance spirit. Inside, the Gothic aisles are hung with rich Renaissance tapestries, some woven with perspective scenes. In striking contrast, behind the Duomo in Piazza del Popolo stands the deﬁnitive example of Rationalist architecture by Como-born Giuseppe Terragni. Built as the headquarters for the local Fascist party in the 1930s it is now dubbed Palazzo Terragni and houses the Guardia di Finanza. Northwest of Piazza Cavour, a little waterfront park is set around the Tempio Voltiano (Tues–Sun 10am–noon & 3–6pm; €3), dedicated to Alessandro Volta, a pioneer in electricity who gave his name to the volt. Beyond, compellingly illuminated at night, is the Villa Olmo, a Neoclassical pile which hosts conferences and exhibitions; whatever is on, its gardens are the biggest draw (Mon–Sat: summer 8am–11pm; winter 7am–7pm; free). Stroll the lakefront northeast of Piazza Cavour to ﬁnd the funicular (every 15–30min daily 6am–10.30pm, June–Aug until midnight; €4.50 return). It takes seven minutes to creep up the hillside past the gardens of wonderful nineteenthcentury villas to Brunate, a small hilltop resort that has a few bars and restaurants and great views of the lake. It is also a good starting-point for hikes; the tourist office has free leaﬂets detailing routes. If you’re after Como silk, walk ﬁfteen minutes south of Piazza Cavour to the La Tessitura outlet store, Viale Roosevelt 2/A (daily 10am–10pm; W http://concept store.latessitura.com), which sells discounted ties, scarves, blouses and home furnishings and has a stylish design café (W www.loomcafe.com). Eating and drinking

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Castiglioni Gastronomia Via Cantù 9. Put together from a lunch mouthwatering selection of home-made pasta, salamis and cheeses at the counter of this wonderful delicatessen or from their very reasonably priced menu, served outside in the pretty courtyard. Closed Sun. La Colombetta Via Diaz 40 T031.262.703. Light, creative, Sardinian-inspired cooking served in handsome dining rooms. Expect to pay around €50 per head.

Le Colonne Piazza Mazzini 12 T031.264.859. This pleasant, family-run restaurant on an attractive square has a friendly buzz and serves tasty pasta and crispy pizza. Osteria del Gallo Via Vitani 16. Atmospheric little spot – one of several wine bars offering tasty nibbles with a ﬁne selection of wines. Closed Sun eve. Sociale Via Rodari 6 T031.264.042. Reliable local cooking in a pleasant location with a handul of tables in the outside courtyard, just north of the Duomo. Closed Tues.

The western shore

Cernobbio and Isola Comacina

| Lake Como

Served by frequent boats and buses from Como, CERNOBBIO village comprises a compact quarter of old houses, loomed over by Monte Bisbino (1325m). It is home to the palatial Villa d’Este hotel (T 031.3481, W www.villadeste .it; 9 ), boasting sumptuous gardens, delicate stucco work, frescoes, marble, and an atmosphere to attract the super-wealthy. An equally enticing A-list haunt is the Gatto Nero restaurant, Via Monte Santo 69 (T 031.512.042; closed Mon & Tues), a hillside trattoria serving rustic food; the terrace views are stunning, but with footballers and fashionistas as regulars, this place is just as much about who’s at the next table. A little north is Isola Comacina, Lake Como’s only island – wild, unkempt and dotted with the ruins of nine abandoned churches. Wander at will, or book for dinner at the island’s restaurant, Locanda dell’Isola Comacina (T 0344.55.083, W www.comacina.it; June–Aug daily; March–May, Sept & Oct closed Tues; closed Nov–Feb), whose owner has made a selling point of serving the same set menu (€63; no credit cards) as when the restaurant opened in 1948, rounded off by an elaborate “exorcism by ﬁre” at the end of every meal, stemming from a curse supposedly laid on the island in 1169 by the Bishop of Como. It involves – essentially – ﬂambéed liqueur coffee. Boat transport to and from the town of Sala Comacina adds €6.

L OMBARDY AND THE L AKE S

The western lakeshore stretching north from Como is the stuff of tourist brochures: wooded mountain slopes protect the villages crammed onto the narrow shoreline from extremes of temperature, and lush gardens abound. Many of the opulent villas that line this shore are privately owned by industrialists and celebrities – George Clooney among them – and on summer weekends the lakeside road is solid with day-trippers. Further north, past the sheltered Tremezzina shore, Menaggio makes a good base for trips into the mountains behind or across to Bellagio and Varenna. Beyond Menaggio, the shore becomes rockier and less accessible until the lake peters out into the marshes that accommodate campsites around Gravedona. Boats stop at many villages on the lake, supplemented by car ferries shuttling from Cadenabbia and Menaggio across to Bellagio and Varenna. The #C10 bus (W www.sptlinea.it) runs northwards from Como, stopping everywhere on the shoreline to Colico, from where the train takes you back to Lecco and the #C40 bus to Como. The #C30 links Como and Bellagio.

Tremezzo and around

Sheltered by a headland, the shore above Isola Comacina, known as the Tremezzina, is where Como’s climate is at its gentlest, the lake most tranquil and the vegetation most lush. Lined with cypresses and palms, it’s lovely at any time of year, but unbeatable in spring bloom.

The Greenway The Greenway is an enchanting 10km trail of paths and waterside lanes that link Colonno with Cadenabbia, passing through unspoilt countryside past ancient churches, Roman relics and lakeside villas. The route can be broken down into 40-minute sections and combined with the ferry service, or the whole walk takes three and a half hours. Maps are available in English from tourist ofﬁces (W www .greenwaydellago.it).

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| Lake Como

Access to the Villa del Balbianello (mid-March to mid-Nov Tues & Thurs–Sun 10am–6pm; villa €11, or €3 to UK National Trust cardholders; gardens only €5/ free; W www.fondoambiente.it) is chieﬂy by boat from Lenno and Sala Comacina, but on Tuesdays, Saturdays and Sundays you can walk through the grounds (roughly 800m from Lenno). The house is a classic eighteenth-century set piece, but it’s the gardens that inspire, with gravel paths between lush foliage, and stone urns framing spectacular views. Parts of Star Wars: Episode II and the 2006 version of the James Bond classic Casino Royale were ﬁlmed here. For more than 150 years, overseas visitors – particularly the British – have been holing up in TREMEZZO and neighbouring CADENABBIA; the latter’s Anglican church was the ﬁrst in Italy (1891). Tremezzo is best known for Villa Carlotta (daily: April–Sept 9am–6pm; March & Oct 9am–noon & 2–4.30pm; €8; W www.villacarlotta.it), located on the lakefront road but best glimpsed from the water (it has its own ferry stop). Pink, white and exceptionally photogenic, this grand house – built in 1690 – was given by a Prussian princess to her daughter Carlotta as a wedding present. It now houses a collection of pompous eighteenth-century statuary, including Canova’s romantic Cupid & Psyche, and boasts beautifully ordered fourteen-acre gardens, rich with camellias, rhododendrons and azaleas. The villages in the hills above retain more character: tourist offices have details of walks that pass through charming GRIANTE, for example – where Casa Pini, Via Brentano 12/F (T 0344.37.302, W www.casapini.com; 2 ), is a pleasant little B&B, serving home-cooked food – or ROGARO, where you’ll ﬁnd the familyrun farmhouse restaurant La Fagurida (T 0344.40.676; closed Mon), specializing in home-produced salumi, polenta and roast rabbit. Down on the waterfront, A Alberghetto della Marianna, Via Regina 57 (T 0344.43.095, W www.la-marianna .com; 2 ), is a very friendly family-run hotel with balconied rooms looking over the road to the water and a good, informal restaurant right on the lake. Menaggio

MENAGGIO, 37km north of Como, a lively and bustling village resort, is a good base for hiking and cycling in the mountains as well as sunbathing and swimming. Ferries dock about ﬁve minutes’ walk from the main lakefront square, Piazza Garibaldi, in and around which you’ll ﬁnd most of Menaggio’s cafés and restaurants. The tourist office here (Mon–Sat 9am–12.30pm & 2.30–6pm, Sun 10am–4pm; Nov–March closed Wed & Sun; T 0344.32.924, W www.menaggio .com) is unusually well organized, with information on everything including Menaggio’s numerous hiking possibilities. These range from a two-and-a-half hour walk to the pretty village of Codogna, to the Sentiero delle Quattro Valli, which leads for 50km through four valleys to Lugano in Switzerland. There’s a beach and vast pool at the Lido (end June to mid-Sept daily 9am–7pm), as well as waterskiing and other activities at Centro Lago Service on the waterfront. Accommodation

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Both Du Lac, Via Mazzini 27 (T 0344.35.281, W www.hoteldulacmenaggio .it; 4 ), and Garni Corona, Largo Cavour 3 (T 0344.32.006, W www.hotelgarni corona.com; 3 ; March–Nov), are comfortable, family-run hotels on the waterfront Piazza Garibaldi at the heart of the village. If you’re looking for something with more facilities, the Grand Hotel Menaggio, Via IV Novembre 69 (T 0344.30.640, W www.grandhotelmenaggio.com; 8 ; March–Oct), is the best of the grand hotels because of its lakeside swimming pool. Menaggio’s excellent HI hostel, Ostello La Primula, Via IV Novembre 86 (T 0344.32.356, W www .menaggiohostel.com; dorms €15; March–Oct), is just outside the village, with

small, clean dorms and a couple of family rooms: reservations are essential. It has its own small beach, bikes for rent and discounts on boat rental. The Europa campsite (T 0344.31.187; May–Sept) is just north of town. Eating and drinking

North of Menaggio

| Lake Como

REZZONICO is a wonderfully sleepy hamlet of cobbled lanes woven around a thirteenth-century castle, where Ristorante Lauro (T 348.264.6726, W www.hotel lauro.com; 1 ) offers simple meals and rooms. In STAZZONA – high above Dongo – the Antica Trattoria Vecchia Pira (T 0344.88.277; open dinner only & Sun lunch; closed Wed) is a tumbledown restaurant set above a rushing river, serving dishes such as smoked trout and artichoke risotto alongside local specialities (menu around €25). GRAVEDONA, 17km north of Menaggio, is one of the few towns on the lake as old as Como, with a lazy waterfront set around a curving bay. Stroll to Santa Maria del Tiglio, a handsome, striped church with a stunning lake-and-mountain backdrop. Above the main entrance is a ﬁne twelfth-century carving of a centaur pursuing a deer; there are traces of thirteenth-century frescoes including The Last Judgement inside. Beyond Gravedona the terrain ﬂattens out and there’s good sailing and windsurﬁng: see W www.gravedona.it for details of campsites and modest hotels in the vicinity.

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For self-caterers, the town boasts a couple of supermarkets and some good delicatessens. Menaggio’s best restaurants huddle around Piazza Garibaldi. A Il Ristorante di Paolo, under the Corona hotel at Largo Cavour 5 (T 0344.32.133; closed Tues) serves well-judged cuisine with excellent wines at good prices. The osteria Il Pozzo (T 0344.32.333; closed Wed), just round the corner, serves simpler dishes on a vine-covered terrace. If you want to be on the waterfront, Red Bay, Piazzale Vittorio Emanuele 7 (T 347.197.8605; closed Thurs), a ﬁve-minute stroll along the lake north of the village centre, is perfect for a drink or a meal right on the waterfront.

Bellagio Cradled by cypress-spiked hills on the tip of the Triangolo Lariano – the triangle of mountainous land between the Como and Lecco branches of the lake – BELLAGIO has been called the most beautiful town in Italy. With a promenade planted with oleanders and limes, ﬁn-de-siècle hotels painted shades of butterscotch, peach and cream, and a hilly old quarter of steep cobbled streets and alleyways – to say nothing of its spectacular mid-lake location – it’s easy to see why Bellagio has become so popular. These days, the alleys are lined with upmarket souvenir shops; town life plays second ﬁddle to tourism but this is still a charming, attractive resort. Arrival, information and accommodation

Boats arrive frequently from Tremezzo, Cadenabbia, Menaggio and Varenna. Passenger ships and hydrofoils dock at the main Piazza Mazzini; car ferries dock 150m south by the car parks (you’re not permitted to drive through Bellagio unless you’re unloading at a hotel). By road, Bellagio is 30km from Como (served by bus #C30) on a narrow, scenic road coiling along the rocky cliffs. The tourist office, at the dock on lakefront Piazza Mazzini (Mon–Sat 9am–12.30pm & 1–6.30pm, Sun 9.30am–12.30pm & 1–2.30pm; T 031.950.204, W www.bellagiolakecomo .com), has information on activities including hiking, horseriding, mountain biking and watersports.

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Hotels

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| Lake Como 192

Bellagio Salita Grandi 6 T 031.950.424, W www.hotelbellagio.it. An appealing modern hotel in one of Bellagio’s tallest buildings, with huge picture windows in many rooms. Go for the rooftop vistas from the fourth ﬂoor (especially the corner rooms 401 and 404). Use of the outdoor pools and sports facilities at Bellagio Sporting Club is included. 4 Belvedere Via Valassina 31 T031.950.410, Wwww.belvederebellagio.com. A modern threestar hotel in its own attractive grounds at the top of the town, with a swimming pool and wonderful views over the Lecco arm of the lake. April–Nov. 7 Giardinetto Via Roncati 12 T031.950.168, E [email protected]. Simple one-star place at the top of Bellagio: some of the rooms have lake views and there’s a garden where you can picnic. Best of the budget options. No credit cards. March–Oct. 2

La Pergola Piazza del Porto 4, Pescallo T031.950.263, Wwww.lapergolabellagio.it. Stylish, en-suite rooms with balconies overlooking the lake and the vine-covered restaurant below in this enchanting ﬁshing hamlet. It’s a good 15min walk over the hill from Bellagio, so you’ll probably need your own transport (or taxi). April–Nov. 3 Silvio Via Carcano 12 T031.950.322, Wwww .bellagiosilvio.com. Just out of town, this bright two-star has rooms with lake views, and an excellent restaurant serving home-made dishes featuring ﬁsh freshly caught by the friendly owner. April–Oct. 3

Campsite Camping Clarke Via Valassina 170/C T031.951.325, Wwww.bellagio-camping.com. A small, family-run campsite about a ten-minute drive out of town up the hill on Via Valassina. May–Sept.

The Town and around

Bellagio’s ﬁrst hotel, the Genazzini, opened in 1825; its second, the Florence, opened in 1852. The two ﬂank Bellagio’s scenic waterfront to this day, and passenger boats dock midway between them (the Genazzini is now the Metropole). The views from here westwards to the mountains above Cadenabbia are simply lovely; spending an afternoon watching the shadows lengthen, as the ferries parade to and fro, is pure Bellagio. The old quarter is tiny with three streets parallel to the waterfront connected by seven perpendicular stepped alleyways. At the top is the eleventh-century Romanesque church of San Giacomo, alongside a tower which is all that’s left of Bellagio’s medieval defences. A stroll 350m north brings you to the Punta Spartivento, the “Point Which Divides the Winds”, at the very tip of Bellagio’s promontory. There’s a little harbour here – nice for a cool dip – as well as a pleasant restaurant from which to enjoy the unique panorama. About ten minutes’ walk east of Bellagio on an attractive footpath through vineyards, the enchanting little harbour of Pescallo, a ﬁshing port since Roman times, offers a tremendous view of the Grigne mountains looming over the Lecco branch of the lake. Bellagio is blessed with luxuriant ﬂora; it’s worth booking for a guided tour of the gorgeous formal gardens of the Villa Serbelloni (April–Oct Tues–Sun 11am & 3.30pm; €8; buy tickets 15min in advance from the office on Piazza della Chiesa). The villa, now owned by the Rockefeller Foundation and maintained as a study centre, is splendidly sited on a hill above the town. At the foot of the hill sits the lavish and confusingly named Grand Hotel Villa Serbelloni (T 031.950.216, W www.villaserbelloni.it; 9 ). South of town, the lake promenade continues for about 500m to the gardens of the Villa Melzi (April–Oct daily 9.30am–6.30pm; €6; W www.giardinidivilla melzi.it), a luxuriant affair crammed with azaleas, rhododendrons, ornamental lemon trees, cypresses, palms, camellias and even a sequoia. The gardens extend to the harbourside hamlet of Lóppia, a relatively quiet retreat after Bellagio. Eating and drinking

Prices are reasonable at Bellagio’s restaurants but they get busy, especially in summer, so booking is advisable. The best ice cream is at Il Sorbetto at the top of

Salita Serbelloni. BellagioPoint.com, Salita Plinio 8, offers the intriguing combination of internet access and wine tasting. excellent food – especially lake ﬁsh – at good prices, and offers lovely views over the Punta Spartivento. Closed Sun dinner. San Giacomo Salita Serbelloni T 031.950.329. A romantic trattoria with tables on the steps, with a small menu of good local dishes and decent wines; meals are about €25 a head. Closed Tues. Silvio Via Carcano 12 T 031.950.322, W www.bellagiosilvio.com. One of Bellagio’s most attractive dining spots, located just above nearby Lóppia. This is an excellent, modern restaurant attached to an old hotel; the views are beautiful, and the ﬁsh – freshly caught by Silvio himself – is superbly prepared (mains around €17).

Gazing back at Bellagio’s Punta Spartivento from the eastern shore of the lake, VARENNA is perhaps the loveliest spot on Lake Como. Free of through traffic, shaded by pines and planes and almost completely free of souvenir shops, the village oozes character. This is the quiet side of the lake, less visited and with fewer places to stay. North of Varenna is the attractive valley of Valchiavenna while to the south Lake Como forks to the southeast. This section – often dubbed “Lago di Lecco”, even though it is an integral part of the whole – is austere and fjord-like, at its most atmospheric in the morning mists. At its foot is the workaday town of Lecco itself above the brooding Grigne mountain range.

| Lake Como

Varenna and the eastern shore

L OMBARDY AND THE L AKE S

Alle Darsene di Loppia Lóppia T 031.952.069, W www.alledarsenediloppia.com. A quiet, attractive ﬁsh restaurant on Lóppia harbour, a little south of Bellagio. Closed Mon. La Barchetta Salita Mella 13 T031.951.389. The place in town to head for a gourmet treat on the rooftop under vines; downstairs on the cobbled lanes the sister trattoria Forma & Gusto serves simple meals with quality ingredients, including pizzas, from under €30 per head. Be guided by the affable maitre d’. Closed Tues. La Grotta Salita Cernaia 14. There’s decent woodﬁred pizza at this cosy place which serves meals till 1am. Credit cards accepted over €25. Closed Mon. La Punta Punta Spartivento T031.951.888. A ﬁve-minute walk north of town, this place serves

Arrival, information and accommodation

Thanks to its rocky shoreline, Varenna is split into two fragments. Boats dock to the north, above which stands the train station (reached from Milano Centrale via Lecco). Some 300m south via the main road – or the passarella, a scenic walkway which clings to the rocks – is the main village, with the tourist office (April–Sept Tues–Sat 10am–12.30pm & 3–5.30pm, Sun 10am–12.30pm; Oct–March Sat 10am–5pm; T 0341.830.367, W www.varennaitaly.com) on the central square near the D20 Lecco-Colico bus stop. Hotels Albergo del Sole Piazza San Giorgio 21 T 0341.815.218, W www.albergodelsole.lc.it. Excellent three-star hotel in the village centre. Rooms are light, airy and modern – some with lake views – and there’s a pizzeria too (see p.194). 3 Albergo Milano Via XX Settembre 29 T 0341.830.298, W www.varenna.net. One of Lake Como’s friendliest, most stylish small hotels lies in the narrow lanes between the square and the waterfront. Well run by a

charming couple, it has great views and a romantic air. Good food too (see p.194). Closed Dec–Feb. 4 Beretta Via per Esino 1 T 0341.830.132, Wwww.hotelberetta.it. Welcoming place near the train station that is the best of the cheaper options. 2 Du Lac Via del Prestino 11 T0341.830.238, Wwww.albergodulac.com. Spacious, comfortable rooms, most with lovely lake views in this relaxed, good-value hotel right on the water. Sit on the vineshaded terrace and drink in the views. 6

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The Village

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As well as the thirteenth-century San Giorgio on the main piazza, Varenna also hosts one of the oldest churches on the lake, the tenth-century San Giovanni Battista opposite, with well-preserved, fragmentary frescoes. Varenna’s other main sights are botanical: the nineteenth-century Villa Cipressi, on the southern fringe of the village, has terraced gardens (April–Oct daily 9am–7pm; €4) tumbling down to the lake that make a perfect spot to relax. The adjacent Villa Monastero gardens (April–Oct daily 9am–6pm, June–Sept until 7pm; €3) are even more lavish. The splendid house, built over a convent dissolved in 1569, is now used as a conference centre and hotel. A very steep twenty-minute walk up the steps opposite Villa Monastero leads to spectacular views from the landscaped ruins of the Castello di Vezio (April–Oct daily 10am–sunset; €4; W www .castellodivezio.it), allegedly founded by the Lombard Queen Theodolinda in the seventh century. There are falconry displays at weekends and a good little restaurant-café serving local specialities. Eating and drinking

| Lake Como

Albergo del Sole Piazza San Giorgio 21 T 0341.815.218. Fine, inexpensive pizzeria on the main square, with an attractive summer garden. Closed Wed. Albergo Milano Via XX Settembre 29 T 0341.830.298. Hide away on this beautiful little terrace for a romantic dinner of light, tasty Mediterranean cuisine. Expect to pay around €40. Dinner only, Mon & Wed–Sat. Il Cavatappi Via XX Settembre T0341.815.349, Wwww.ilcavatappiwine-food.it. Delightful restaurant,

tucked away in the thicket of lanes off the main square. The owner/manager/chef takes the time to discuss the menu with you before turning out simple, beautifully cooked dishes with ﬁrst-class ingredients. Meals around €35 a head. Closed Wed. Vecchia Varenna Contrada Scoscesa T0341.830.793, W www.vecchiavarenna.it. In an unbeatable location, beneath the arcades on the lakeside promenade (book for a terrace table), with food that is good, though not outstanding. Closed Mon.

North of Varenna: into the Valchiavenna

About 16km north of Varenna, a minor road branches down to the tranquil Romanesque Abbazia di Piona (daily 9am–12.30pm & 1.30–6.30pm; W www .abbaziadipiona.it), perched on a headland. A shop by the gates sells bottles of the monks’ ﬁery herb liqueur. Last stop for ferries, at the top of the lake’s eastern shore, is industrial CÓLICO. Trains continue north of Cólico into the Valchiavenna, a ﬂat-bottomed valley into which Lake Como extended as recently as Roman times. Make a beeline for the pleasant Alpine town of CHIAVENNA, to visit one of the many crotti, natural cellars in the rocks which for centuries have been used for maturing wine, salami, cured meats and cheeses. Most are now inns and restaurants; the ﬁnest is Crotto al Prato, Via Picchi 13 (from the station, cross the tracks and follow Via Pratogiano), where you can sit in the cosy stone interior or at terrace tables by the boules pitch with wonderful mountain views. The tourist office (Mon–Sat 9.30am–12.30pm & 2.30–6pm, Sun 9am–12.30pm; T 0343.33.442, W www.valtellina.it) is by the train station. South of Varenna: towards Lecco

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Past MANDELLO DEL LARIO, production centre of Italy’s famous Moto Guzzi motorbikes since 1921 – there’s a museum of vintage specimens at Via Parodi 57 (guided tours Mon–Fri 3pm; free; W www.motoguzzi.it) – stands LECCO, 30km east of Como at the foot of this branch of the lake. It’s a commercial centre with few attractions; literary types might appreciate Villa Manzoni, Via Guanella 7 (Tues–Sun 9.30am–5.30pm; €4), the childhood home of Alessandro

Manzoni, author of the great nineteenth-century Italian novel I Promessi Sposi (“The Betrothed”); otherwise, pop into the lakefront Basilica to see its fourteenthcentury Giottesque frescoes. Lecco’s tourist office is at Via Nazario Sauro 6, off the lakefront Piazza Garibaldi (daily 9am–1pm & 2.30–6.30pm; T 0341.295.720, W www.turismo.provincia.lecco.it), with information on mountain hikes in the isolated Valsássina.

Arrival and information

| Bergamo

Just 50km northeast of Milan, yet much closer to the mountains in look and feel, BERGAMO comprises two distinct parts – Bergamo Bassa, the city centre on the plain, and medieval Bergamo Alta, 100m above. Bergamo Bassa is a harmonious mixture of medieval cobbled quarters blending into late nineteenth- and early twentieth-century town planning, while Bergamo Alta is one of northern Italy’s loveliest urban centres, with wanderable lanes and a lively, easygoing pace of life. Bergamo owes much of its magic to the Venetians, who ruled the town for over 350 years, adorning facades and open spaces with the Venetian lion, symbol of the Republic, and leaving a ring of gated walls. Now worn, mellow and overgrown with creepers, these kept armies out until the French invaded in 1796.

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Bergamo

Bergamo’s Orio al Serio airport (T 035.326.323, W www.orioaeroporto.it) lies 4km southeast of town. There’s a well-equipped tourist office (daily 8am–11pm; T 035.320.402, W www.turismo.bergamo.it) in the arrivals area, as well as kiosks selling bus tickets to Stazione Centrale in Milan (daily approx every 30min 4.30am–1am): Orioshuttle costs €9, while Autostradale charge €7.90 but offer three for the price of two. For Bergamo, take city bus #1 (daily every 30min 6am–midnight; €1.70, day-pass €3.50). Bergamo train station is at the end of Bergamo Bassa’s central avenue, Viale Papa Giovanni XXIII, which becomes Via Vittorio Emanuele II. The bus station is just across the roundabout. Bus #1 runs frequently between the airport, the train station, the base station of the funicular (from where you can make the ascent to Bergamo Alta for no extra charge as long as you show your bus ticket; otherwise €1) and on to Colle Aperto at the top of the town – though some services stop short or follow variations; check timetables carefully. A hop-on, hop-off tourist bus also weaves between the main sights of the city (April–Nov daily 10am–5pm; €13; W www.bergamo.city-sightseeing.it). The city centre has two tourist offices (W www.provincia.bergamo.it /turismo): at the train station (daily 9am–12.30pm & 2–5.30pm; Oct–May closed Sat & Sun; T 035.210.204) and in Bergamo Alta in the Torre Gombito off Piazza Vecchia (daily 9am–12.30pm & 2–5.30pm; T 035.242.226). A guided walk in English starts from Piazza Mercato delle Scarpe (April–Oct Wed & Sun 3pm; 2hr; €10).

Accommodation Bergamo’s accommodation is pricey and, in the centre, fairly limited: always book ahead. It’s also worth checking out B&Bs (see W www.bed-and-breakfast.it, www.bedandbergamo.it or www.bebilmondoincasa.com) – some are located in attractive buildings in Bergamo Alta.

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San Giorgio Via San Giorgio 10 T 035.212.043, Wwww.sangiorgioalbergo.it. A well-run and friendly hostel-like option, a ﬁve-minute walk from the station, offering various-sized, comfortable rooms with and without bathrooms, all spotless. 1 Sole Via Colleoni 1 T035.218.238, Wwww .ilsolebergamo.com. Just off the main square in Città Alta, this bright and breezy traditional hotel offers simple en-suite two-star rooms with little balconies looking over a back courtyard or the garden. 3

Hostel Nuovo Ostello di Bergamo Via Galileo Ferraris 1 T035.361.724, Wwww.ostellodibergamo.it. This award-winning HI hostel has bathrooms in every room, bicycles for rent and a rooftop terrace with great views. There are doubles, triple and quads as well as dorms. It’s a fair way from the centre: bus #3 from Piazza Mercato delle Scarpe in the Città Alta runs to the door. Dorms €18, rooms 1

With its steep, narrow streets, ﬂanked by high facades and encircled by sixteenthcentury walls, Bergamo Alta – the upper town – remains in appearance largely as it was in the Middle Ages. The main public spaces – Piazza Vecchia and adjacent Piazza del Duomo – combine medieval austerity with the grace of later, Renaissance design. The main street, beginning as Via Gombito and continuing as Via Colleoni, follows the line of the Roman decumanus maximus, topped and tailed by evidence of Bergamo’s military past – the Rocca to the east, the Cittadella to the west.

| Bergamo

Bergamo Alta: the upper town

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Agnello d’Oro Via Gombito 22 T035.249.883, Wwww.agnellodoro.it. In the heart of the upper town, this cosy two-star offers plain but comfortable en-suite rooms, some with balconies. 2 Gourmet Via San Vigilio 1 T 035.437.3004, W www.gourmet-bg.it. Just above Città Alta, with spacious, modern rooms with rather standard furnishings but wonderful views. The restaurant serves local staples. 3 Mercure Palazzo Dolci Viale Papa Giovanni XXIII 100 T035.227.411, Wwww.mercure.com. Four-star chain hotel near the station. Anonymous but stylish, convenient and excellent value, it has swish contemporary interiors and good soundprooﬁng. 4 Piazza Vecchia Via Colleoni 3 T035.253.179, W www.hotelpiazzavecchia.it. Three-star hotel in a medieval building on Bergamo Alta’s main “street” (a pedestrianized alley). The 13 arty rooms feature fresh, contemporary design – but service can be less than forthcoming. 5

Piazza Vecchia

From the upper funicular station on Piazza Mercato delle Scarpe, narrow Via Gombito leads up to Bergamo’s magniﬁcent Piazza Vecchia, enclosed by a harmonious miscellany of buildings, ranging from wrought-iron-balconied houses containing cafés and restaurants to the opulent Palladian-style civic library. Stendhal dubbed this “the most beautiful square on earth”, and it’s certainly a striking space. The most imposing presence is the medieval Palazzo della Ragione, a Venetian-Gothic building stretching right across the piazza opposite the library. Court cases used to be heard under the open arcades that form the ground ﬂoor. A grand covered stairway, dating from 1453, rises from alongside. The piazza was the scene of joyous celebrations in 1797, when the French formed the Republic of Bergamo: the square was carpeted with tapestries and transformed into an open-air ballroom in which – as a symbol of the new democracy – dances were led by an aristocrat partnered by a butcher. Until 2013, while Bergamo’s prestigious Accademia Carrara gallery is closed for renovation, the Palazzo della Ragione is housing around a hundred of its masterpieces ( June–Sept Tues–Fri & Sun 10am–9pm, Sat 10am–11pm; Oct–May Tues–Fri 9.30am–5.30pm, Sat & Sun 10am–6pm; €5; W www.accademiacarrara .bergamo.it). At the time of writing the layout had not been determined; it seems likely, though, that you will be able to view Titian’s remarkable Virgin and Child, painted at the age of 27, a touchingly effeminate St Sebastian by the young Raphael and Botticelli’s startlingly modern Portrait of Giuliano de’ Medici – among many other works.

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To the right of the palazzo looms the massive Torre Civica, or Campanone, which you can ascend by lift (April–Oct Tues–Fri 9.30am–7pm, Sat & Sun 9.30am–9.30pm; Nov–March Sat & Sun 9.30am–4.30pm; €3). Its seventeenthcentury bell, which narrowly escaped being melted down by the Germans during World War II, still tolls every half-hour. Piazza del Duomo L OMBARDY AND THE L AKE S

| Bergamo

Walk beneath the Palazzo della Ragione’s arcades to enter Piazza del Duomo – a small, cramped space where the Duomo (under renovation) is of less interest than Santa Maria Maggiore alongside (Mon–Sat 9.30am–12.30pm & 2.30–6pm), a rambling Romanesque church with a scalloped Gothic porch. Inside, it is a perfect example of high Baroque, its ceiling marzipanned with ornament, encrusted with gilded stucco, painted vignettes and languishing statues. Look for the kitsch nineteenth-century monument to Donizetti, the Bergamo-born composer of comic opera: bas-relief putti stamp their feet and smash their lyres in misery at his death. More subtly, the intarsia biblical scenes on the choir stalls – designed by Lorenzo Lotto, and executed by a local craftsman – are remarkable not only for their intricacy but also for the incredible colour-range of the natural wood. Even the glitziness of Santa Maria is overshadowed by the Renaissance decoration of the Cappella Colleoni next door (Tues–Sun 9am–12.30pm & 2–6pm). Commissioned by Bartolomeo Colleoni, a Bergamo mercenary in the pay of Venice, and built onto the church in the 1470s, the chapel is an extravagant confection of pastel-coloured marble carved into an abundance of miniature arcades, balustrades and twisted columns, capped with a mosque-like dome. The opulent interior, with its frescoed ceiling, shelters Colleoni’s sarcophagus, topped with a gilded equestrian statue; the tomb of his ﬁfteen-year-old daughter, Medea, is more modest. Note Colleoni’s coat of arms on the gate as you enter; the smoothness of the decorative third “testicle” (supposedly biologically accurate) bears witness to the local tradition that rubbing it will bring you luck. Outside on the square is the free-standing Baptistry (kept locked), which was removed from the interior of Santa Maria Maggiore in the seventeenth century. Around Piazza Vecchia

From the south door of Santa Maria Maggiore, Via Arena climbs towards the west end of the Città Alta. Partway up at number 9, a frescoed doorway opens into the grounds of the Santa Grata monastery, also home to the Museo Donizettiano (Tues–Sun 9.30am–1pm & 2–5.30pm; €3; W www.bergamoestoria.org). One of the masters of the “bel canto” opera style (along with Bellini and Rossini), Gaetano Donizetti (1797–1848), who was born and died in Bergamo, is celebrated for his melodramatic lyricism, which reached a peak in Lucia di Lammermoor. The museum contains portraits of the maestro, original letters and scores, as well as his fortepiano and imperial-style bed. Via San Lorenzo heads north from the Torre Gombito near Piazza Vecchia down to the Museo Storico (Tues–Sun 9.30am–1pm & 2–5.30pm; €3). Housed on Piazza Mercato del Fieno in the ex-convent of San Francesco, with a beautiful thirteenth-century cloister, it spans the history of the city from the eighteenth century to 1945. Following Via Solata east from here leads on a short climb to the Rocca, rebuilt in the 1330s, from where spectacular views encompass eastern Bergamo. 198

Towards the Colle Aperto and San Vigilio

Leading northwest out of Piazza Vecchia, the narrow, pedestrianized Via Colleoni is lined with boutiques, delicatessens and pastry shops selling sweet

Bergamo Bassa: the lower town

| Bergamo

Bergamo Bassa spreads north from the train station in a comfortable blend of Neoclassical ostentation, Fascist severity and tree-lined elegance. At the heart of the busy streets, midway along the main Viale Papa Giovanni XXIII, the mockDoric temples of the Porta Nuova mark the Sentierone, a favourite spot for Bergamo’s citizens to meet and stroll. Frowning down on the square is the Palazzo di Giustizia, built in the bombastic rectangular style of the Mussolini era. Via XX Settembre to the west is the main focus for Bergamo’s shoppers, with a selection of quality mainstream stores. From the Sentierone, Via Tasso leads east into the oldest part of the Città Bassa, formed in the Middle Ages as overspill from the upper town; shady Via Pignolo has a largely unchanged appearance, with many architectural features – balconies, mullioned windows – surviving. Follow it up to the attractive Piazzetta del Delﬁno, occupied by a dolphin fountain built here in 1526. From here, Via Pignolo continues to the Porta Sant’Agostino, at the bottom of Bergamo Alta, while Via San Tomaso, packed with galleries, antiques shops and cafés, heads right towards the Accademia Carrara – Bergamo’s ﬁnest art gallery, closed for renovation until 2013 – and its neighbour, the Galleria d’Arte Moderna e Contemporanea (GAM), Via San Tomaso 82 (W www.gamec.it; hours and admission vary), with world-class temporary exhibitions and a small permanent collection including works by Kandinsky and a moody Still Life With Fruit by surrealist Giorgio de Chirico.

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polenta cakes topped with chocolate birds. At the top of the street, Piazza Mascheroni lies at the entrance to the Cittadella, a military stronghold built by Barnabo Visconti, now housing a small theatre and two didactic (Italian labelling only) museums of archeology and natural history. Beyond the Cittadella lies the Colle Aperto, open hillside beyond the city walls. From here you can either walk back through the city or follow the old walls – the whole circuit takes a couple of hours, with the most picturesque stretch lying between the Colle Aperto and Porta San Giacomo (from where a long ﬂight of steps leads down into Bergamo Bassa). For the best views, head up through the Porta Sant’Alessandro, leading off Colle Aperto, towards San Vigilio: a funicular does the short journey but the walk is pleasant, up a steep, narrow road overlooking the gardens of Bergamo’s most desirable properties. At the top perches the Castello, alongside a sprinkling of (pricey) bars and restaurants and more wonderful views.

Eating and drinking One of the pleasures of Bergamo is its food, whether you’re assembling picnics from the many salumerie and bakeries in the upper town – most lining the main streets of Via Gombito and Via Colleoni – or grazing around the city’s osterie. The town’s culinary attractions are headed by game – hunting the local wildlife is a major pastime – as well as the signature dishes of polenta and casoncelli, ravioli stuffed with sausage meat and served with sage butter. Book ahead whenever possible. You’ll ﬁnd the best ice cream under the luxuriant balconies of La Mariana on Largo Colle Aperto, Bergamo’s oldest pasticceria. Baretto di San Vigilio Via Castello 1 T 035.253.191, Wwww.baretto.it. An unbeatable choice of excellent dishes on an attractive vinecovered terrace with spectacular views. Prices reﬂect the location – at the top station of the San

Vigilio funicular – so expect to pay more than €50 per head. Closed Mon. Caffè Funicolare In the funicular station on Piazza Mercato delle Scarpe. Good-value snacks and drinks served on a terrace with a

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great view over Città Bassa. Open until 2am. Closed Tues. Cooperativa Città Alta Vicolo Sant’Agata, signposted off Via Colleoni. This cooperative venture – a cheery amalgam of café, restaurant and bar (open until 2am) – boasts good food at low prices, a happy hour on Thursdays and a garden with views of the hills. Closed Wed. Donizetti Via Gombito 17/A T 035.242.661, Wwww.donizetti.it. Excellent place for a slap-up meal or a degustazione platter of local meats and cheeses washed down with ﬁne wine. Inside is warm and welcoming; in summer tables are laid out in the covered market space. La Colombina Via Borgo Canale 12 T 035.261.402. A wonderful little trattoria with tasty, good-value Bergamasco food and glorious

views (ask for a table by the window when you book). Closed Mon & Tues. San Vigilio Via San Vigilio 35 T035.253.188. Informal restaurant with tasty pizzas from a woodburning oven plus well-judged, creative dishes. Reserve a table by the window for views across the nearby villas with their splendid gardens to the plains. Closed Wed. Sole Via Colleoni 1 T035.218.238. A popular restaurant attached to the eponymous hotel, serving traditional local specialities and ﬁsh in an attractive garden in summer. Closed Thurs. Vineria Cozzi Via Colleoni 22/A T035.238.836, Wwww.vineriacozzi.it. A classy wine-bar with around three hundred wines to choose from, as well as excellent local cooking. Closed Wed.

| Brescia

Brescia Surrounded by vine-covered hills, the ancient settlement of BRESCIA is a wealthy city, boasting Roman remains, Renaissance squares and a medieval city centre juxtaposed with important twentieth-century architecture. Yet for all this, it lacks the elegance and charm of other northern-Italian cities and you’d do best to visit its sights in a day and then head on your way – easy, as the town is well connected by road, rail and bus.

Arrival, information and accommodation

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Verona-Brescia airport (T 030.965.6599, W www.bresciaairport.com; also known as Gabriele D’Annunzio) is 23km southeast near Montichiari; ﬂights are met by buses shuttling to Brescia (25min; €7.50) and Verona (45min; €11). Brescia lies just off the A4 autostrada and is a principal stop for trains on the main line between Milan and Venice (as well as slower trains from Lecco, Bergamo and Cremona). Buses (W www.trasportibrescia.it) serve Verona, Mantua and Lake Garda. The train station – ﬂanked by two bus stations – is a dull ﬁfteen-minute walk from the centre; it’s best to cross the road for city bus #1 (direction Mombello) or #2 (direction Pendolina), which both head into the centre: buy tickets (€1 valid 75min; €2.80 valid 24hr) from the driver or the shop by the bus stop. While the new metro is under construction (due to open in 2014), expect roadworks and traffic disruption. The tourist office is at Piazza della Loggia 13 (Mon–Sat 9.30am–6.30pm, Sun 10am–6pm; T 030.240.0357, W www.bresciatourism.it). As for accommodation, the Orologio, Via Beccaria 17 (T 030.375.5411, W www.albergoorologio.it; 4 ), is in an attractive medieval building that has been transformed into a three-star boutique hotel. Rooms have been updated with a good deal of taste, matching the warm welcome and genial service. The Ambasciatori, Via Croceﬁssa di Rosa 90 (T 030.399.114, W www.ambasciatori .net; 4 ), is a ﬁne, family-run four-star occupying an ugly modern building 1km north of the centre, with spacious rooms and good facilities. There’s free parking and bus #1 stops outside. Best of the budget options is the Trento, Piazza Battisti 31 (T 030.380.768; 2 ), a decent two-star on a busy square just north of the centre; take bus #7 from the train station.

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The City Brescia’s centre comprises a compact cluster of piazzas linked by cobbled streets. The main square, Piazza della Loggia, is also the prettiest, dating from 1433, when the city invited Venice to protect it from Milan’s power-hungry Viscontis. The Venetian inﬂuence is clearest in the fancy Loggia, in which both Palladio and Titian had a hand, and the Torre dell’Orologio, modelled on the campanile in Venice’s Piazza San Marco. Below it, a monument commemorates the Fascist bombing, in 1974, of a trade-union rally here, in which eight people were killed and over a hundred injured: you can still see the blast damage on the pillar. Alongside is the Porta Bruciata, a defensive medieval tower-gate. Streets connect south into the austere, Fascist-built Piazza della Vittoria, under the stern gaze of the monumental post office building. Passages from Piazza della Loggia and Piazza della Vittoria lead east across galleried Via Dieci Giornate through to Piazza Paolo VI, one of the few squares in Italy to have two cathedrals – though, frankly, it would have been better off without the chilly Duomo Nuovo (Mon–Sat 7.30am–noon & 4–7pm, Sun 8am–1pm & 4–7pm), its grim Neoclassical facade concealing a tall cupola. Much more appealing is the adjacent twelfth-century Duomo Vecchio, or Rotonda (Tues–Sun: April–Oct 9am–noon & 3–7pm; Nov–March 10am–noon & 3–6pm), a unique circular church of local stone, sunk below the current level of the piazza.

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| Brescia

Inside, glass set into the transept pavement reveals the remains of Roman baths (a wall and geometrical mosaics) and the apse of an eighth-century basilica, which burned down in 1097. From the top end of the square, Via dei Musei marks the decumanus maximus (east– west road) of the Roman settlement of Brixia; a short walk east brings you to Piazza del Foro, built over the ancient forum (which was substantially larger than the current square). Dominating the area are the tall columns of the Tempio Capitolino (daily 11am–4pm; free), a Roman temple built in 73 AD, now partly reconstructed with red brick. Adjacent to the east is a part-excavated Roman theatre. A short walk further along Via dei Musei is Brescia’s civic museum of Santa Giulia (Tues–Sun: June–Sept 9am–7pm; Oct–May 10am–6pm; €8; W www .bresciamusei.com), housed in an ex-Benedictine convent built over what was a Roman quarter of frescoed villas. The layers of history on show, and the wellorganized layout, make this well worth an hour or two. Inside are three churches: twelfth-century San Salvatore, which includes remains of a crypt built in 762; Santa Maria in Solario, covered in frescoes painted mainly by the Renaissance artist Floriano Ferramola; and the late sixteenth-century church of Santa Giulia, with further frescoes by Ferramola. The museum holds a collection of artefacts chronicling the city’s history, including a life-sized Roman Winged Victory in bronze, beautifully preserved Roman mosaic ﬂoors and the eighth-century wooden cross of Desiderius, studded with more than two hundred gemstones. The complex also stages major art exhibitions (W www.lineadombra.it). Behind the museum, Via Piamarta climbs the Cydnean Hill, the core of early Roman Brixia (though remains are scanty), topped by the Castello (daily 8am–8pm; free), begun in the ﬁfteenth century by Luchino Visconti and added to by the Venetians, French and Austrians. The resulting confusion of towers, ramparts, halls and courtyards makes a good place for an atmospheric picnic. A short walk south of Santa Giulia, Brescia’s main art gallery, the Pinacoteca Tosio Martinengo, Via Martinengo da Barco 1 (W www.bresciamusei.com), was closed at the time of writing but during restoration works highlights will be on show at the Santa Giulia complex. These will no doubt include two masterpieces by Raphael – an Angel and a Risen Christ – and Moretto’s chilling Passion (c.1550), depicting a reproachful Christ slouched before an angry, tearful angel.

Eating and drinking Central Brescia has plenty of reasonably priced places to eat, specializing in local dishes such as casoncei (large meat-ﬁlled ravioli) and brasato d’asino (donkey stew). Many menus feature pasta stuffed with (or polenta smothered in) bagòss, a local cheese – rich, spicy and ﬂavourful. Piazzale Arnaldo to the east of the centre has a clutch of café-bars that ﬁll up quickly after work and stay buzzing into the small hours.

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Al Bianchi Via Gasparo da Salò 30 T030.292.328, Wwww.osteriaalbianchi.it. Historic restaurant in a quiet central location. A popular spot, serving a variety of tasty, moderately priced local dishes, specializing in Brescian meaty mains. Closed Tues dinner & Wed. Al Granaio Piazzale Arnaldo T030.375.9345. A ﬁne osteria under the arcades of the old city granary. The covered terrace is an atmospheric place for lunch, and is candlelit after dark. The food is moderately priced local fare, with a broad choice of wines. Closed Mon.

Osteria dell’Elfo Piazza Vescovato 1/B T030.377.4858. Decent little restaurant on this central square, with terrace tables catering to the pre- and post-theatre crowd – think salads and light meals of pasta and ﬁsh. Closed Tues. Osteria La Grotta Vicolo del Prezzemolo 10 T030.44.068, Wwww.osterialagrotta.it. Charming little spot with an atmospheric interior and a menu centred on its own, high-quality salumi and other local specialities. Expect to pay around €35. Closed Wed.

Lake Garda

L OMBARDY AND THE L AKE S

| Lake Garda

LAKE GARDA (Lago di Garda) is the largest lake in Italy (52km long by 17km wide): it’s so big that it alters the local climate, which is milder and – thanks to a complex pattern of lake breezes – sunnier than might be expected. It’s also the most popular of the lakes, handling around seven percent of all tourists to Italy and acting as a bridge between the Alps and the rest of the country. The narrow north of the lake is tightly enclosed by mountains that drop sheer into the water with villages wedged into gaps in the cliffs. Further south, the lake spreads out comfortably, ﬂanked by gentle hills and lined by placid holiday resorts. In the south, Desenzano is a cheery spot with the advantage of good transport links, plus proximity to scenically impressive Sirmione. On the western shore are lovely Salò and Gargnano, the lake’s best destination, a small village that remains largely unspoilt. In the north, Riva del Garda – the lake’s best-known holiday spot – is a charming small town with a long history and focal point for sports and water activities. On the eastern shore, Malcesine is too popular for its own good, though Torri del Benaco is another attractive corner that has avoided the worst of the crowds. For information on resorts and activities all round the lake, consult W www.visitgarda.com. Note that Garda’s resorts are packed with holiday-makers in summer, both northern Europeans and Italian families alike, many attracted by the variety of watersports and mountain activities on offer. Trying to move around – to say nothing of enjoying the tranquillity of the lake – is not easy on frenetic summer weekends, when you should expect heavy traffic on the scenic lakeshore road (which has one lane in each direction, often squeezing through dimly lit tunnels). Regular buses ply both shores but travelling by boat is the most relaxing option, with at least hourly services between the main resorts. Two car ferries cross the lake (Maderno–Torri del Benaco, and Limone–Malcesine).

The southern shore Served by the Milan–Venice autostrada and railway – and with regular buses from Brescia – DESENZANO DEL GARDA, the lake’s largest town, is handy for stopping off to sample a taste of Garda’s atmosphere. Its lakefront squares – Piazza Malvezzi and Piazza Matteotti, lined with bars and restaurants – are attractive, sitting alongside the Roman villa on Via Crociﬁsso (Tues–Sun 8.30am–7pm; Nov–Feb closes 4.30pm; €2), displaying some good mosaics, and loomed over by the castle, from where there are spectacular views. Boats depart from Piazza Matteotti for destinations all round the shore. SIRMIONE, 9km east, is a beautiful village spread along a narrow promontory sticking out into the lake. It’s in a striking location, though in season is suffocated with hotels, souvenir stands and holiday-makers, many of whom come to take the waters: Sirmione is one of northern Italy’s top spa destinations. The ferry dock on Piazza Carducci adjoins Piazza Castello, site of the Rocca Scaligera (Tues–Sun 8.30am–7pm; €4), a fairytale castle with boxy towers almost entirely surrounded by water, built by the Della Scala of Verona in the thirteenth century. Press on through the crowded lanes of the village and out to the cypress-clad hills at the head of the peninsula, where stands the Grotte di Catullo (Tues–Sat 8.30am–7pm, Sun until 5pm; Nov–Feb closes 5pm; €4), the remains of a ﬁrst century BC/AD Roman villa, purportedly belonging to Roman poet Catullus, though the evidence is scant. The ruins, scattered among ancient olive trees, are lovely, and offer superb views across the lake. From partway along the path, head down to water level for the Lido delle Bionde (May–Oct daily 8am–midnight; €8), a beach where you

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Garda’s theme parks

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If you have kids to amuse, head for one of the theme parks east of Sirmione, served by free shuttle buses from Peschiera train station. The biggest is Gardaland (March– Sept daily 10am–6pm; June–Aug until midnight; T045.644.9777, Wwww.gardaland .it; €35, children under 10 €29, family tickets available). You pay extra for some of the attractions, but its rides and themed entertainments are exciting and well presented. Nearby is Canevaworld (T045.696.9900, Wwww.canevaworld.it), comprising two adjacent parks: Movieland (March–Sept daily 10am–6pm; July & Aug open later), with fake movie sets and special-effects shows; and AquaParadise (May–Sept daily 10am–6pm; July & Aug until 7pm), with slides, ﬂumes, pools and a pirate island. Admission to either Movieland or AquaParadise is €24 (€19 for children under 1.4m); admission to both costs €34/29.

can eat, drink, swim in the lake or sunbathe on the pontoon or nearby rocks. From Sirmione, boats head back to Desenzano or on to resorts such as Garda, Torri del Benaco and Salò.

| Lake Garda

The western shore The rolling hills of the Valtenesi, overlooking the western shore north of Desenzano, are a good place to stock up on local produce, as much of the area is dedicated to vine and olive growing. In addition, it has plenty of lakeside campsites which make for a cheap stay. Not far from the old Venetian town of Salò stands the exuberant villa Il Vittoriale, once home to poet Gabriele D’Annunzio. Around Gargnano – the most attractive and unspoilt of the lake villages – the western shore is dubbed the Riviera del Limone for the citrus orchards that once ﬂourished here. The crop, introduced by the Franciscans in the fourteenth century, was cultivated in the limonaie, or “lemon-houses” that are still in evidence, although most of the stone-pillared constructions are now abandoned. North of Gargnano the mountainous scenery is spectacular on the approach to the genteel resort of Riva del Garda at the head of the lake. Salò, Gardone Riviera and around

SALÒ, splendidly sited on its own bay, is one of Garda’s more handsome towns. Capital of the Magniﬁca Patria – a grouping of lake communes – for more than four hundred years until the fall of the Venetian Republic in 1797, it retains something of its old-fashioned hauteur, exempliﬁed by the grand seventeenthcentury town hall, directly on the lakefront by the ferry dock, and the unﬁnished Renaissance facade of the Duomo, which holds paintings by Romanino. From 1943 to 1945, Salò was the nominal capital of Italy, as the Nazis installed Mussolini here at the head of a puppet regime in a failed attempt to hold off the Allied advance. Just 2km east, GARDONE RIVIERA was once the most fashionable of Lake Garda’s resorts; it retains its symbols of sophistication, though the elegant promenade, opulent villas and ritzy hotels now have to compete with more recent – less tasteful – tourist tack. Above the town nestles the exotic Giardino Botanico André Heller (March–Oct daily 9am–7pm; €9), with bamboo and banana plants laid out among artiﬁcial cliffs and streams among modern artworks. Il Vittoriale 204

On the hillside above Gardone, Il Vittoriale (Tues–Sun 8.30am–8pm; Oct–March 9am–1pm & 2–5pm; €16; W www.vittoriale.it) was the home of Italy’s most notorious twentieth-century writer, Gabriele D’Annunzio (see box opposite).

L OMBARDY AND THE L AKE S

| Lake Garda

Tickets can be restricted at peak times (Sun, national holidays, some days in July & Aug), when you should arrive an hour or more before the opening time to be sure of entry. Even then, be prepared for a scrum. You can pay less to visit the gardens only (€7, which means you miss out on D’Annunzio’s house, the Prioria), or an extra €4 to see the adjoining Museo della Guerra (War Museum; closed Wed), which isn’t worth it. D’Annunzio’s personality makes itself felt from the start in the Prioria’s two reception rooms – one a chilly and formal room for guests he didn’t like, the other warm and inviting for those he did. Mussolini was apparently shown to the former, where the mirror has an inscription reputedly aimed at him: “Remember that you are made of glass and I of steel.” Dining with D’Annunzio was never a reassuring experience: in the glitzy dining room, as a warning to greedy guests, pride of place was given to a gilded tortoise that had died of overeating. The rest of the house is no less bizarre: the bathroom has a bathtub hemmed in by hundreds of objects, ranging from Persian ceramic tiles and Buddhas to toy animals; and the Sala del Mappamondo, as well as the huge globe for which it is named, contains an Austrian machine gun and an oversized edition of The Divine Comedy. Suspended from the ceiling of the auditorium adjoining the house is the biplane that D’Annunzio used in a daring ﬂight over Vienna in World War I. Outside amid the cypress trees is the prow of the battleship Puglia used in D’Annunzio’s so-called “Fiume adventure”. Fiume (now Rijeka), on the North Adriatic, had been promised to Italy before they entered World War I, but was handed to Yugoslavia instead. Incensed, D’Annunzio gathered an army, occupied Fiume and returned home a hero. Amid the gardens above stands D’Annunzio’s mausoleum, a Fascistic array of angular travertine stonework. Practicalities

Salò’s tourist office is behind the town hall on Piazza Sant’Antonio (Mon–Sat 10am–12.30pm & 3–6pm, Sun 10am–1pm & 3.30–6.30pm; T 0365.21.423, W www.rivieradeilimoni.it). The four-star hotel Bellerive, Via Pietro da Salò 11 (T 0365.520.410, W www.hotelbellerive.it; 5 ; closed Dec & Jan), offers tasteful modern rooms with balconies and designer bathrooms and an excellent restaurant; otherwise aim for Benaco, a decent three-star at Lungolago Zanardelli 44 (T 0365.20.308, W www.benacohotel.com; 3 ), with a ﬁne roof terrace. In Vino Veritas, Via Duomo 7 (closed Mon), is a genial restaurant for wine tasting and light bites, while Osteria di Mezzo, Via di Mezzo 10, is a cosy, informal back-lane place. Atmospheric Osteria dell’Orologio, Via Butturini 26/A (T 0365.290.158; closed Wed), serves more upmarket ﬁsh and game specialities. In Gardone Sopra – the

Gabriele D’Annunzio Born in 1863, Gaetano Rapagnetta – who took the name Gabriele D’Annunzio (Gabriel of the Annunciation) – is often acclaimed as one of Italy’s greatest poets, though he became better known as a soldier and socialite, leading his own private army and indulging in much-publicized affairs with numerous women, including the actress Eleonora Duse (when berated by his friends for treating her cruelly, he simply replied, “I gave her everything, even suffering.”) He was a fervent supporter of Mussolini, providing the Fascist Party with their (meaningless) war cry “eia! eia! alalá!” – though Mussolini eventually found his excessive exhibitionism an embarrassment and in 1921 presented D’Annunzio with the Vittoriale villa, ostensibly to reward his patriotism, in reality to shut him up. D’Annunzio died in the house in 1938, suffering a brain haemorrhage while sitting at his desk in the Zambracca room, which remains untouched.

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hillside quarter around Il Vittoriale – La Stalla, Via dei Colli 14 (T 0365.21.038; closed Tues), serves well-priced staples in a tranquil garden, not far from peaceful Locanda Agli Angeli, Piazza Garibaldi 2 (T 0365.20.832, W www.agliangeli.com; closed Mon & Tues), a family-run restaurant serving top-quality lake ﬁsh and homecured meats, also with a few airy, attractive rooms (4). San Michele L OMBARDY AND THE L AKE S

In the mountains 500m above Gardone stands the pretty village of SAN MICHELE. Three buses (Mon–Sat only) run from Salò and Gardone, but as the views along the road are splendid, you might want to walk the hour or so uphill; the tourist office can advise on short cuts that divert onto hillside tracks. In the village, Hotel Colombér, Via Val di Sur 111 (T 0365.21.108, W www.colomber .com; 3 ), has comfortable en-suite rooms (some with balconies), a pool and a decent restaurant serving local specialities. It’s a good base if you want to do some walking to the springs and waterfalls in the surrounding hills; the owners can give suggestions. Gargnano

| Lake Garda

Some 15km north of Salò is GARGNANO, the prettiest village on Lake Garda. Traffic runs above and slightly inland here, leaving the old village itself noisefree. In addition, the narrow, difficult road north of town means tour buses don’t bother trying to reach Gargnano, saving it from the worst excesses of Lakes tourism. Still more a working village than a resort, it’s the perfect spot to unwind for a day or two and wander around the abandoned olive factory or the lakefront villas with their boathouses, or just to relax in one of the waterfront cafés. D.H. Lawrence stayed here while writing Twilight in Italy, a work which is beautifully evocative of Lake Garda’s attractions. Arrival, information and activities

Buses stop at Piazza Boldini on the main road, opposite the tourist office (Mon–Sat 9.30am–12.30pm & 5–7pm, closed Wed afternoon & Thurs morning; T 0365.791.243, W www.gargnanosulgarda.it). It’s a short walk down past the church to the jetty beside the old harbour. There’s more information at W www .gargnanosulgarda.com. OKSurf, at Parco Fontanella (T 328.471.7777, W www.oksurf.it), runs windsurﬁng, sailing and kitesurﬁng courses, and also rents electric and mountain bikes (€20–30 a day) plus GPS-guided routes in the surrounding hills. For a weekend in early September, Gargnano hosts the Centomiglia sailing event, with hundreds of yachts racing from nearby Bogliaco all round the lake and back. Accommodation

The accommoation options in Gargnano happily match its charm. From budget to secluded comfort there are pleasant, family-run options for all pockets.

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Gardenia Via Colletta 53 T 0365.71.195, Wwww .hotel-gardenia.it. Excellent family-run choice right on the water offering spacious guest rooms with handsome furniture, a pretty garden and good terrace restaurant. 3 Hotel du Lac Via Colletta 23 T0365.522.131, W www.hotel-dulac.it. With the same owners as the Gardenia, you receive the same friendly service and attractive furnishings but with fewer public spaces, a reduced terrace and cheaper prices. 3

Riviera Via Roma 1 T0365.472.292, Wwww .garniriviera.it. In the centre of the village, pleasant two-star rooms are equipped with spotless bathrooms; some rooms look over the water. There's a lovely terrace on the lakefront where breakfast is served in summer. 2 Villa Sostaga Via Sostaga 16, Navazzo T 0365.791.218, W www.villasostaga .com. Eight switchback kilometres above the village, Villa Sostaga is a beautiful bolthole

with dreamy views across the lake, attractive gardens and a swimming pool to complement the bright spacious rooms with period furniture

and the charming treatment of the Seresina family. Very good restaurant too (open to non-residents). 6

The Town

Eating and drinking

Gargnano has a good choice of restaurants, and various places around the harbour serve snacks and ice cream. Miralago 5 Lungolago Zanardelli T0365.71.209. Overlooking the lake by the jetty, this restaurant offers excellent pan-Italian dishes. Closed Sun dinner. Osteria del Restauro Piazza Villa 19 T0365.72.643. South of town along the lakeside lanes to the part of town called “Villa”, this idyllically located osteria serves good, inexpensive local cuisine at outdoor tables on the piazza by a tiny marina. Closed Wed.

| Lake Garda

Bar Vittorio Piazza Villa. This locals’ bar is an unbeatable place for a drink or simple snack right on the water in the part of the village known as “Villa”. Closed Tues. La Tortuga Via XXIV Maggio T 0365.71.251. Just behind La Tortuga, this is a cosy foodie haven offering top-quality creative cuisine with a local bent; expect to pay €80 a head. Dinner only; closed Mon & Tues.

L OMBARDY AND THE L AKE S

Apart from the harbourside ex-Palazzo Comunale, which has two cannonballs wedged in the wall facing the lake – dating from the naval bombings suffered in 1866 during the war of independence from the Austrians – the main sight is the church of San Francesco, built in 1289; its cloister has columns carved with citrus fruits, a reference to the Franciscans’ introduction of the crop to Europe. A stroll along the road which leads north from the harbour takes you for 3km through olive and lemon groves, past the exclusive luxury hotel Villa Feltrinelli, to the eleventh-century chapel of San Giacomo di Calino. On the side facing the lake, under the portico where the local ﬁshermen keep their equipment, is a thirteenthcentury fresco of St Christopher, patron saint of travellers.

North of Gargnano

North of Gargnano the lake road skirts the water, passing through treacherously narrow road tunnels. Just after the windsurﬁng destination Campione del Garda there’s a turning to the village of Pieve in the Tremosine. Not for the faint hearted or large vehicles, the narrow SP38 road, described by Winston Churchill as “the eighth wonder of the world”, switchbacks its way up the mountain through the scenic Brasa gorge to the Alpine plains above. The last town in Lombardy, 20km from Gargnano on a tongue of land surrounded by rugged mountains, is LIMONE SUL GARDA (W www.visit limonesulgarda.com). Although famous for its lemon cultivation – a commercial concern until the 1920s – the name derives from its location at what was the frontier (limen in Latin) of Roman control. Limone is undeniably pretty, but it is utterly overrun. A million tourists a year stay here, not counting the vast numbers who visit for the day; all this in a village with a settled population of just one thousand. The steep, cobbled streets are lined with stalls selling souvenirs, leather jackets and sequined T-shirts; the old stone facades are studded with plastic signs advertising restaurants and hotels; and as you elbow your way through the crowds you’ll dig into more German and British ribs than Italian. It’s best admired from afar. Riva del Garda

Dramatically located beneath sheer cliffs at the northwest tip of the lake, RIVA DEL GARDA is the best known of the lake’s resorts. It is unmistakeably a holiday

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town, but it has a long history and the pedestrianized old quarter is still full of character. Windsurﬁng and sailing on the lake are major preoccupations. Cheaper than many other lake resorts, Riva is a good base for a budget holiday. Arrival, information and accommodation

L OMBARDY AND THE L AKE S

Riva’s bus station is about 1km north of the lakefront, on Viale Trento, but all intercity buses drop off at the ferry jetty (if approaching from Limone) or Viale Carducci (if approaching from Torbole). The tourist office is on Largo Medaglie d’Oro (daily 9am–7pm; T 0464.554.444, W www.gardatrentino.it), with an information kiosk at the ferry jetty (May–Sept Mon, Tues & Thurs–Sun 10am–1pm & 2–5.30pm). Hotels

| Lake Garda

Ancora Via Montanara 2 T 0464.522.131, W www.rivadelgarda.com/ancora. Good-value, comfortable two-star rooms on an old-town lane. Service is friendly and there is a good terrace restaurant. 3 Bellariva Via Franz Kafka 13 T0464.553.620, W www.hotelbellariva.com. Modest little hotel away from the centre with free parking; grab a room on the uppermost ﬂoor for a bargain balcony overlooking the lake and the mountains. Closed Nov–Feb. 4 Restel de Fer Via Restel de Fer 10 T 0464.553.481, W www.resteldefer.com.

A real ﬁnd, in the quiet backstreets away from the centre. This was once a farmhouse, out on its own in the ﬁelds; Riva has grown up around it, but the Meneghelli family are still here, 600 years on. The restaurant is outstanding and there are ﬁve guest rooms, comfortably furnished with individual touches.

Hostel Ostello Benacus Piazza Cavour 10 T 0464.554.911, W www.ostelloriva.com. Very central HI hostel, well run, with renovated two-, four- and multi-bed rooms. Closed Nov–Feb. Dorms €17, rooms 1

The Town

The lakefront square, Piazza III Novembre, is ringed by medieval facades below the rugged face of Monte Rocchetta, which towers overhead. To one side is the thirteenth-century, 34m-high Torre Apponale (March–Oct Tues–Sun 10am–6pm; June–Aug also Mon; €1), which you can climb for sensational lake views, while behind stretches the medieval Marocco quarter alongside lively Via Fiume. Along the waterfront looms the Rocca, originally built in 1124 but much altered since, now housing the Museo Civico (March–Oct Tues–Sun 10am–12.30pm & 1.30–6pm; June–Aug also Mon; €2), with exhibits of local art and history. Just 3km north (follow Via Ardaro/Marone; 45min walk) is the Parco Grotta Cascata Varone (daily: May–Aug 9am–7pm; April & Sept 9am–6pm; March & Oct 9am–5pm; Nov–Feb Sun 10am–5pm; €5), where you follow catwalks into a gorge system as waterfalls thunder down from 100m above. Eating and drinking

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Al Gallo Piazza San Rocco 12 T0464.556.200. A relaxed spot under the portico in this tiny square, west off the main piazza. There's a short menu of simple local mountain staples and the owner is happy to reel off many more. Good list of Trento wines too. Closed Mon. Kulmbacher Am See Viale Dante 39 T 0464.559.231. Cosy Bavarian restaurant just outside the old quarter, specializing in roast pork, goulash, bratwurst – and, of course, beer. Quality is high: with the number of Bavarian holiday-makers in Riva, it has to be. Closed Wed.

Leon d’Oro Via Fiume 28 T 0464.552.341. Welcoming restaurant on a busy pedestrianized street, a handy place for good-quality, moderately priced pizza and ﬁsh dishes in the heart of the old quarter. Restel de Fer Via Restel de Fer 10 T0464.553.481. Local produce is used to create delicious takes on traditional recipes in this relaxed, family-run locanda. Organic meat, game and ﬁsh are complemented by home-made bread and olive oil, plus well-chosen wines.

The eastern shore

Torbole

| Lake Garda

TORBOLE, 4km east of Riva, played an important role in the ﬁfteenth-century war between Milan and Venice, when a ﬂeet of warships was dragged overland here and launched into the lake. Nowadays the water still dominates, since Torbole’s main diversions are sailing and windsurﬁng, and the place has a fresh, youthful outlook. Windsurﬁng enthusiasts come here from all over Europe, attracted by ideal wind conditions (see box below). The lakefront tourist office (Easter–Oct Mon–Sat 9am–noon & 3–6pm; June–Aug also Sun 10am–noon & 3.30–6.30pm; Nov–Easter Mon–Fri 9am–noon & 2.30–5pm; T 0464.505.177, W www.gardatrentino.it) has details of the dozens of hotels: Lido Blu, Via Foci del Sarca 1 (T 0464.505.180, W www.lidoblu.com; 5 ), has some great beaches and cut-price deals in the low season (open year-round), while Villa Verde, Via Sarca Vecchio 15 (T 0464.505.274, W www.hotel-villaverde.it; 3 ), has standard rooms but its own pool and garden.

L OMBARDY AND THE L AKE S

Overlooked by the ridges of Monte Baldo, which tops 2100m – its treeless summit poking baldly out of lushly wooded slopes – the main resorts of Lake Garda’s eastern shore are heavily touristed and struggle to match the charm of the villages opposite. Holiday hotels and campsites line much of the lakeside road. Aim for Torbole if you’re a keen windsurfer or attracted by any of the other outdoor activities on offer. Just to the south, Malcesine’s appealing centre is swamped by holiday-makers, yet nearby Torri del Benaco, a lovely old village, remains popular but not ruined by tourism.

Malcesine

Backed by the slopes of Monte Baldo and blessed with the same windsurferfriendly winds as Torbole, MALCESINE, 14km south, has a pretty old quarter but tends to be inundated with British and German package tourists. The main sight is the thirteenth-century Castello Scaligera (daily 9.30am–6pm; Nov–March closed Mon–Fri; €5). Goethe was imprisoned here brieﬂy in 1786, having been arrested on suspicion of being a spy: he’d been caught making sketches of the castle’s towers.

Watersports and other activities The northern shore of Lake Garda around Riva – and especially Torbole – is a hub for sporting activity. All prices below are approximate; check details with local tourist ofﬁces. Top of the list is watersports, with a clutch of local outﬁts offering windsurﬁng: ﬁrst-timers can get individual tuition (€55/hr) or there are group lessons at various grades (€70/3hr). If you’re already proﬁcient, you can rent for €45 a day. Sailing is also popular, with beginners’ courses in a dinghy or catamaran (€70/2hr) and rental (€25–40/day, depending on size of boat). Shop around: local operators include Wwww .pierwindsurf.it, www.vascorenna.com, www.sailingdulac.com, www.surfsegnana.it, www.surﬂb.com and www.windsurfconca.com. You can rent canoes (€35/day for two people) at several places, including the Sabbioni beach in Riva. With over a dozen good locations within easy reach of the lake, canyoning is also a good bet (April–Oct; half-day €40–60; Wwww.outdoorplanet.net and www.canyonadv.com). Several companies offer more traditional Alpine activities – ice-climbing, Via Ferrata, trekking and so on; check Wwww.alpinguide.com and www.guidealpinearco.com for details. Paragliding – notably off Monte Baldo above Malcesine – is a spectacular way to get an eagle-eye view of the lake. Volo Libero (Wwww.timetoﬂy.net) runs tandem paragliding ﬂights for €100.

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| Lake Garda

For those after more active pursuits there are well-marked trails up Monte Baldo, or you can take the cable car (March–Oct daily every 30min 8am–7pm; €11 one way, €17 return; W www.funiviamalcesine.com), which rises more than 1600m in ten minutes. Be prepared for queues. There are several special trips a day for cyclists to transport their bikes to the top; you can rent mountain bikes at G. Furioli in Piazza Matteotti (T 045.740.045) and make a panoramic descent down easy trails to the shore. Footpaths explore the summit ridge. Beside Malcesine’s bus station on the main road is a tourist office (Mon–Sat 9am–7pm, Sun 10am–4pm; T 045.740.0044, W www.malcesinepiu.it); there’s another branch near the jetty at Via Capitanato 8 (Mon–Sat 9am–1pm & 3–7pm; May–Oct also Sun 9am–1pm; T 045.740.0837). Many hotels are block-booked by tour operators; Aurora, Piazza Matteotti 8 (T 045.740.0022, W www.europa -hotel.net; 5 ), is a more ﬂexible three-star option right on the lake, ﬁve minutes’ walk north of town, with a pool and contemporary furnishings. Many of Malcesine’s restaurants are poor: the waterfront locations are lovely, but expect crowds, slapdash service and spag bol on the menu. Al Corsaro, Via Paina 17 (T 045.658.4064, W www.alcorsaro.it) breaks the mould, serving freshly caught lake ﬁsh at a beautiful location on a concealed beach under the castle walls, while the contemporary-styled wine bar Al Gremal on Via Scoisse above the bus station, offers a haven from the crush (closed Sun & Mon). Torri del Benaco and around

Some 20km south of Malcesine, TORRI DEL BENACO is the prettiest of the villages on this side of the lake. Its old centre – one long cobbled street, Corso Dante, crisscrossed with tunnelling alleyways – is dominated by the Castello Scaligero (daily: June–Sept 9.30am–1pm & 4.30–7.30pm; April, May & Oct 9.30am–12.30pm & 2.30–6pm; €3; W www.museodelcastelloditorridelbenaco.it), its swallowtail battlements standing guard over the little harbour. The castle boasts one of the oldest working limonaie, or glasshouses on the lake, plus an engaging display of local ﬁshing and olive-oil-making traditions as well as information on ancient rock carvings in the area. Ask at the tourist office for details of a 7km walk through the woods on the hillside to see the carvings in situ. Practicalities

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The tourist office is on the harbour ( June–Aug daily 9am–1pm & 3–7pm; T 045.722.5120, W www.tourism.verona.it). Budget hotels are led by the Garni Onda, Via per Albisano 28 (T 045.722.5895, W www.garnionda.com; closed Nov–Feb; 2 ), 100m east of the centre. Each spotlessly clean room has its own balcony or terrace and the friendly owners provide a ﬁrst-rate breakfast. Newcomer Hotel del Porto (T 045.722.5051, W www.hoteldelportotorri.com; 3 ), Lungolago Barbarani, has an excellent lakeside position and stylish rooms with swish bathrooms, as well as a couple of self-catering suites; a meal at the restaurant over the water also comes highly recommended. The historic, harbourside Gardesana, Piazza Calderini 20 (T 045.722.5411, W www.hotel-gardesana .com; 5 ), was ﬁrst recorded in 1452. The comfortable three-star rooms are good value, the service genial and the restaurant has a lovely setting, laid out along a balcony above the harbour (book for a table at the railing). Trattoria Bell’Arrivo, just below on Piazza Calderini, is another cosy little spot with unusually good food at very reasonable prices. For excellent cooking in unbeatable surroundings, head a couple of kilometres above town towards Albisano; amid hillside olive groves, A Trattoria agli Olivi, Via Valmagra 7 (T 045.722.5483, W www .agliolivi.com), serves delicious local dishes at bargain prices on a splendid lake-view terrace.

Punta San Vigilio

Around 4km south of Torri, PUNTA SAN VIGILIO juts into the lake, offering a well-equipped beach (April–Sept €12, under-12s €5; W www.parcobaiadellesirene .it) with sun loungers, picnic tables and children’s equipment scattered on grassy slopes planted with pines and olive trees. Occupying a sixteenth-century villa in its own grounds, Locanda San Vigilio (T 045.725.6688, W www.locanda-sanvigilio.it; 7 ) is a luxury hotel worth investigating for its charming taverna, with quiet tables laid out on a tiny private harbour serving (pricey) drinks and snacks.

Bardolino

Some 4km south is the spruce resort of BARDOLINO (W www.bagolinoweb.it), home of light, red Bardolino wine – at its most animated in September during the Festa dell’Uva (Grape Festival). A nameless bar on Via Cesare Battisti, commonly known as Da Romaldì, is a good place to sample local vintages, or try the delicious ice cream at lakefront Cristallo. A little south is the Museo dell’Olio di Oliva (Mon–Sat 9am–12.30pm & 2.30–7pm, Sun 9am–12.30pm; free; W www .museum.it), centred on a shop selling local oils. On the hillside above is the Museo del Vino (March–Oct daily 9am–1pm & 2–6pm; free; W www.zeni.it), part of the Zeni winery, which offers free tastings.

| Travel details

Like many of its neighbours, the ancient ﬁshing village of GARDA, 7km south of Torri, has seen its narrow, winding alleys encroached on by snack bars and souvenir shops. Even the ﬁfteenth-century Loggia della Losa, originally a dock for the palazzo behind, is now a gelateria. Look for the Palazzo Fregoso, a charming sixteenth-century house on Via Spagna with its original external staircase and a double lancet window over an arched passageway – then stroll the long, curving promenade, which offers wonderful views southwest over the lake. Restaurants aren’t great; instead, head up away from the lake along Via Don Gnocchi – past the tourist office (Mon–Sat 9am–7pm, Sun 10am–4pm; T 045.725.5824, W www .visitgarda.com) – for 1km to Hostaria La Cross (T 045.725.5795; closed Sun), a rumbustiously cheery local restaurant, serving traditional food. Book ahead – it’s a popular spot, light years away from the tourist fare on the lake.

L OMBARDY AND THE L AKE S

Garda

Travel details Details of all public transport in Lombardy are at W www.trasporti.regione.lombardia.it, in Italian only (click “bus e mezzi pubblici”, then “orari”).

Trains Bergamo to: Brescia (hourly; 50min); Lecco (hourly; 40min); Milan (every 40min; 50min). Brescia to: Bergamo (hourly; 50min); Cremona (hourly; 50min); Desenzano (every 30min; 20min); Milan (every 30min; 1hr); Parma (6 daily; 1hr 50min); Verona (every 30min; 45min); Venice (every 30min; 2hr 10min). Cremona to: Brescia (hourly; 50min); Mantua (hourly; 55min); Milan (7 daily; 1hr 40min).

Desenzano to: Brescia (every 30min; 20min); Verona (every 30min approx; 30min); Venice (every 30min approx; 1hr 50min). Mantua to: Bologna (2 daily; 1hr 35min); Milan (9 daily; 1hr 50min); Modena (hourly; 45min); Verona (hourly; 50min). Milan Centrale to: Bergamo (hourly; 50min); Brescia (every 45min; 1hr 15min); Certosa di Pavia (every 2hr; 30min); Como SG (hourly; 1hr); Cremona (7 daily; 1hr 25min); Desenzano (every 30min; 1hr 10min); Lecco (every 2hr; 1hr); Mantua (every 2hr; 2hr 10min); Pavia (every 30min; 25min); Peschiera (hourly; 1hr 20min); Stresa (9 daily; 1hr 10min); Varenna (every 2hr; 1hr 10min); Verona (hourly; 1hr 35min).

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| Travel details 212

Milan Lambrate to: Certosa di Pavia (9 daily; 20min); Pavia (every 15min; 25min). Milan Nord/Cadorna to: Lake Como Nord (every 30min; 1hr). Milan Porta Garibaldi to: Bergamo (every 40min; 55min); Lecco (hourly; 1hr 40min); Luino (4 daily; 1hr 40min); Stresa (8 daily; 1hr 30min); Varese (hourly; 1hr). Pavia to: Certosa di Pavia (14 daily; 10min).

Buses Bergamo to: Como (6 daily; 2hr). Brescia to: Cremona (hourly; 1hr 15min); Desenzano (at least hourly; 55min); Gargnano (every 50min; 1hr 25min); Mantua (hourly; 1hr 25min); Verona (hourly; 2hr 20min). Como to: Bellagio (hourly; 1hr 10min); Bergamo (6 daily; 2hr); Menaggio (every 20min; 1hr 10min). Desenzano to: Riva (5 daily; 1hr 50min); Sirmione (at least hourly; 20min). Mantua to: Brescia (every 2hr; 1hr 35min); Milan (1 daily; 2hr 15min); Peschiera (hourly; 1hr 10min). Milan (Metro Famagosta) to: Certosa di Pavia (Mon–Sat 7 daily, 5 on Sun; 30min). Pavia to: Certosa di Pavia (Mon–Sat every 30min, Sun every 2hr; 10min); Milan Famagosta (5 daily; 35min); Milan Linate airport (6 daily; 55min).

Riva del Garda to: Desenzano (2 daily; 1hr 50min); Malcesine (approx hourly; 30min). Stresa to: Orta San Giulio (5 daily; 1hr).

Ferries Following is an outline of summer services, including main hovercraft services and cross-lake car ferries; for full information, see Wwww .navigazionelaghi.it. Cadennabia–Bellagio–Varenna (at least hourly; 30min). Como to: Bellagio (6 daily; 45min–2hr 10min); Cernobbio (every 20min; 15min); Cólico (5 daily; 1hr 50min–4hr); Menaggio (6 daily; 50min–2hr 25min); Varenna (6 daily; 1hr–2hr 40min). Desenzano to: Gargnano (5 daily; 1hr 30min); Malcesine (5 daily; 3hr 15min); Riva del Garda (7 daily; 2hr 30min); Salò (9 daily; 1hr 30min); Sirmione (every 45min; 20min). Intra to: Laveno (every 20min; 20min). Stresa to: Isola Bella (every 30min; 10min); Pallanza (every 30min; 35min); Santa Caterina (hourly; 15min); Villa Táranto (every 30min; 45min). Toscolano-Maderno to: Torri del Benaco (every 30 min; 30min).

4 TRE NTI NO-ALTO ADI GE

Trentino-Alto Adige

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CHAPTER 4

Highlights

✱ TRE NTI NO-ALTO ADI GE

Mountain refuges Bed, board and beer in some of Europe’s most remote and scenic locations. See p.220

✱

| Highlights

MART The museum of contemporary art in Rovereto is the largest of its kind in Italy, and is strong on Futurist, avant-garde and Pop art. See p.226

✱

Hiking in the Pale di San Martino One of the most spectacular areas in the Dolomites with a great selection of high-altitude trails. See p.231

✱

Skiing in Canazei A vast choice of slopes for intermediates – you could spend a week there and barely ski the same piste twice. See p.234

✱

Ice Man The chief exhibit in Bolzano’s Museo Archeologico is the superbly preserved “Ice Man”, found in the Ötzaler Alps in 1991. See p.238

✱

Wine tasting along the Strada del Vino Follow the “Wine Road” through the Adige valley and sample some of the region’s best food and wine. See p.242

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Skiing in Canazei

4 “…and to dream in a vague way of those mystic mountains beyond Verona which we knew of, somewhat indeﬁnitely, as the Dolomites.” Amelia B. Edwards (1831–92; adventurer)

I

|

taly’s northernmost region, where Italy, Austria and Switzerland meet, is a major summer- and winter-holiday destination. In the past, however, it’s been something of a battle zone. A string of castles along the Adige (Etsch) valley bear witness to the cut and thrust of medieval politics, and the area was on the front line again in World War I, when Italian and Austrian troops fought a ferocious battle along the alpine ridges. These days, the invasions tend to be peaceful, as millions of holiday-makers head here to ski on sunny south-facing slopes, or take a summer break in one of the region’s high-altitude resorts. As its name suggests, the region consists of two areas linked together. Trentino, the southern part, is 98 percent Italian-speaking and the cuisine and architecture belong predominantly to the south rather than the Alps. By contrast, the mountainous terrain around Bolzano – known both as the Südtirol (South Tyrol) and Alto Adige – was only incorporated into Italy at the end of the First World War (see box, p.236). Here, onion-domed churches dot vineyards and forests, street signs are in German and Italian and the landscape is redolent of illustrations from the Brothers Grimm. Both Trentino and Alto Adige now enjoy autonomy from central government, along with one of the highest standards of living in Italy. In 2001, each of the two provinces gained greater political clout separately rather than jointly, although they remain linked, if only by their official name. The main focus of a trip here is the landscape, dominated by the stark and jagged Dolomites. Among the most beautiful mountains in Europe, these vast massifs are steeped in legend and have been eroded over the last 200 million years into a weird and wonderful array of towers and pinnacles. In 2009 the mountain range was added to the UNESCO World Natural Heritage List, for their unique geology – they began life around 250 million years ago as a giant coral reef beneath the ancient Tethys Ocean – and for a diverse ecosystem rich in rare ﬂora and fauna. For those who want to explore, cable cars travel from the small resorts dotted around the region enabling you to go walking at 2000–3000m without needing anything beyond average ﬁtness or expertise, and a network of trails crosses the ranges, varying in length from a day’s walk to a two-week trek. If walking boots and rucksacks make you shudder, views of this spectacular landscape can also be enjoyed from the luxury of some of the best spa hotels in Italy, offering wonderful regional cuisine along with a unique array of treatments from bathing in thermal water to elaborate “dry baths” involving lying swaddled in sheep’s wool or mountain hay. Trentino-Alto Adige has a burgeoning cultural life too, with two cutting-edge contemporary galleries – MART, in Rovereto,

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Trentino-Alto Adige

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Landeck

Innsbruck (A22)

TRENTINO-ALTO ADIGE Passo di Brénnero (1374m)

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Passo di Falzarago

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a short train ride away from Trento, and Bolzano’s Museion gallery – helping to counterbalance the area’s hearty focus on the great outdoors. Regional capital Trento has an atmospheric old centre and mountain views, while Bolzano, Alto Adige’s chief town, has an enviable quality of life and makes a good base for exploring the region. It is worth visiting for the “Ice Man” alone (see p.238), the prize exhibit at the archeological museum. Between the two towns are hillsides planted with vineyards that can be visited as part of the Strada del Vino winetasting route. Both Trento and Bolzano are transport hubs, reachable by train via Verona and Innsbruck, and by private bus from Bergamo and other airports. In summer there are various outdoor concerts – the best of these is the Suoni delle Dolomiti series of jazz, folk and world music concerts by artists from all over the world: the concept is an original one – you hike (sometimes with the artists) to the chosen location – a wood, perhaps, or a rocky gully – and then listen to the concert. Performances are in the evenings and sometimes at dawn. Visit W www.isuonidelle dolomiti.it for details (in English) of concerts, local accommodation, and walking times to venues. More traditionally, at Christmas, vast markets take over the historic centres of Trento and Bolzano, attracting visitors from miles around. The scenic Great Dolomites Road links Bolzano with Cortina d’Ampezzo. Even though technically it is just across the regional border in the Veneto (and

Regional food and wine: schnitzel and spaghetti

218

Alto Adige cuisine has unreservedly Germanic traditions, while Trentino cooking mixes mountain inﬂuences with more recognizably Italian ﬂavours. The hearty traditional food is great for refuelling after a day of hiking or skiing and the quality of produce is often excellent, even in the simplest mountain hut. For ﬁner dining, adventurous chefs are reworking old recipes to make a much lighter cuisine, and it is well worth trying out some of the pricier restaurants we list for a new take on local specialities. A traditional meal starts with some kind of salami (lucanicche in local dialect), often paper-thin slices of salt beef, or Tyrolean canederli – bread dumplings spiked with speck (smoked ham) often served in broth (brodo). You’ll also see strangolapreti (bread and spinach gnocchi) and schlutzkrapfen (spinach-ﬁlled pasta) on the menu. Fresh lake and river ﬁsh, game and rabbit are popular as secondi, as are venison goulash or boiled cured pork with sauerkraut. Desserts are often based on apples, pears or plums, readily available from the local orchards. Other sweet treats include apfel strudel, sachertorte and kaiserschmarren, a scrambled pancake with raisins. A highlight of the year for food- and wine-lovers is the autumn Törggelen season (see box, p.242), when everyone heads for the hills to sample the new vintage and snack on mountain ham and roast chestnuts, followed by a walk to work it all off. Vines have been cultivated here since before Roman times, and Trentino-Alto Adige produces more DOC wines than any other region in Italy. Most famous are the Pinot Grigios and Chardonnays, which are bright and aromatic from being grown at high altitudes and in cool conditions. These also provide wine makers with the raw material for some outstanding traditional-method sparkling wines, often marketed under the spumante Trentino Classico label. Despite the excellence of the whites, local wine makers actually make more reds often with local varieties like Teróldego and Schiava (known as Vernatsch in German-speaking areas). Red wines made from Schiava are good when young: look out for the pale-red Kalterersee (Caldaro) and the fuller, more fruity St Magdalene (Santa Maddalena); those made from the Lagrein grape variety are more robust, such as the strong, dark Lagrein Dunkel, or the Kretzer rosé from Bolzano’s vineyards at Gries. Also worth seeking out is the rare vino santo (not to be confused with vin santo from Tuscany) from Trentino’s Valle dei Laghi – a luscious dessert wine made from local Nosiola grapes.

therefore served by transport links from Belluno), Cortina is very much part of the Dolomites and is Italy’s glitziest ski resort. Merano, in the northwest, is another hub, serving the Val Venosta (Vischgau) and its side valleys which take you deep into the mountains of the Parco Nazionale dello Stelvio straddling the border with Lombardy. More remote and less touristy than the Dolomites, this range has a different ﬂavour of high alps topped by vast glaciers; by day you can be ascending snow-capped pasture, in the evening eating pizza in town.

Hiking This region is an exhilarating area to walk, often subject to snow, ice and scorching sun in the same day. A network of refuges allow you to stay at high altitude without having to dip down to the valley for meals or accommodation. Most rifugi (W www.trentinorifugi.com, see p.220) and cable cars are open from June 20 to September 20 which is the official hiking season, though there will be local variations and you’ll ﬁnd some also have a winter season. There are plenty of opportunities for day-walks: routes are well established and well signposted, and there are suggestions in this chapter for walks in some stunning scenery that are within average capabilities. For more ambitious walking over a number of days, you might consider doing one of the longer trails, known as alte vie (literally “high ways”). Four of these run north–south between the Val Pusteria (Pustertal) and the Veneto; four from the Val d’Isarco (Eisacktal) south; and two from Bolzano, with plenty of mountain huts along the way for meals and overnight accommodation. Some of the initial ascents are strenuous, but once you are up on the ridges the paths level out and give superb views across the valleys and glaciers. Parts of the trails are exposed, or have snowﬁelds across them, but other ways round these obstacles are always available. Online, W www.dolomiti.it is a good source of information on all ten longdistance trails. Martin Collins’s Alta Via: High Level Walks in the Dolomites (Cicerone) covers Alte Vie 1 and 2; and if you read Italian or German, Alpina Verlag’s Dolomite Alte Vie/Dolomiten Hohenwegel 1–10 is an extremely thorough companion to each of the trails – available free from larger tourist offices. There aren’t many guides to the non-alta via trails in English, but the beauty of this area is that there are so many footpaths that if you invest in the Kompass 1:50,000 or Tabacco 1:25,000 maps that are on sale everywhere in the Dolomites you can plan your own routes. Paths are numbered and are easy to follow – you

| Public transport and driving • Hiking

It’s worth noting that provincial bus companies stick to towns within their province, so that some places which look as though they should be easy to get to from Bolzano, say, often are not. So if using public transport, it’s wise to base your itinerary around exploring one province at a time. Cyclists can stow bikes on certain trains on the private Trento-Male line (see p.256) and in the boot of out-of-town buses (there is room for two bikes, and it operates on a ﬁrst-come, ﬁrst-served basis), which can take some of the hard work out of long ascents. If you’re driving outside the summer months, be aware that many passes can remain closed until well after Easter. Approach roads all have signs indicating whether the pass is open, or you can call T 0471.200.198 for information on road conditions. The Südtirol’s official website W www.south-tirol.com also has winter road reports, as well as some useful links and reams of information about the province, with pages devoted to individual towns and resorts, trekking, wellness, family holidays and B&Bs.

TRE NTI NO-ALTO ADI GE

Public transport and driving

219

just look out for the red-and-white blaze on rocks and trees by the side of the path along the way. When ﬁguring out how long hikes will take, bear in mind that an averagely ﬁt person takes around three hours to ascend 1000m. Vie ferrate

TRE NTI NO-ALTO ADI GE

| Vie ferrate • Rifugi

Vie ferrate (literally “iron ways”) are a Italian phenomenon, consisting of ﬁxed metal ladders, pegs and cables that climbers clip onto with karabiners, making otherwise difficult routes more accessible. Many vie ferrate began life as far back as the late nineteenth century as mountaineering took off as a sport in Europe; Alpini troops put others in place during World War I to assist the climbs that were a matter of survival for the soldiers ﬁghting in the mountains. In the decades since then, volunteers from local Club Alpino Italiano groups have created many more. Kompass and Tabacco maps show vie ferrate as a line of little black dots or crosses, so you can easily avoid them – as they are deﬁnitely not for beginners or vertigosufferers. To use them, you need to be conﬁdent belaying and have the proper equipment (including helmet, ropes, two self-locking karabiners and a chest- or seat-harness). Incidentally, it’s not advisable to climb a via ferrata in a thunderstorm either; it might just become one long lightning conductor. Of course, once you’ve done a few straightforward paths up in the mountains you may be inspired to tackle some ferrate, and there are plenty of people around who will teach you. Individual guides charge by the hour, and so become more affordable if you can get a small group together. Many of the rifugi are run by mountain guides, or you could enrol on a mountain skills course: both Trentino and Alto Adige provincial tourist offices keep lists of guides and mountaineering schools, but you’ll need to book well in advance. For more in-depth information, contact the Collegio Guide Alpine del Trentino, Vicolo Galasso 19, Trento (T 0461.981.207, W www.guidealpinetrentino.it), an organization for Alpine guides in the province of Trentino, with associated mountaineering schools at Male and Madonna di Campiglio. If you want a private guide, book at least a week ahead in high season. For Alto Adige, contact Collegio Guide Alpine del Alto Adige, Via Grappoli 9, Bolzano (T 0471.976.357). Rifugi

220

If you’re seriously into hiking or mountaineering, the most convenient places to stay once you’re high up are the rifugi (refuges). Solidly constructed, usually two- or three-storey buildings, they provide dormitory accommodation (and often double or quad rooms if you book well ahead), meals and a bar. These days, most have hot showers. Blankets are provided, but you must bring your own sheet sleeping bag – if you don’t have one, you can usually buy one at the hut for around €10. Run by enthusiastic and dedicated staff, rifugi are open from 20 June until around 20 September, and many also operate in the skiing season; we’ve given opening periods as a guide, but these are still subject to weather conditions. If you’re planning a long trek that relies on rifugi for accommodation, you should deﬁnitely call ahead; at the same time, you can check that the place isn’t likely to be packed out by a large party – nobody is ever turned away, but overﬂow accommodation is either on a mattress in the bar or, in extremis, the hen house. If you are a member of the Club Alpino Italiano (W www.cai.it) the overnight rate at CAI-run rifugi is around €10; if not, expect to pay around €20, but unless you want to carry food with you, count on paying €40–50 for a bunk, breakfast and dinner – good value for the hearty home-cooking and local wine that are rustled up in some pretty remote locations. Emergency calls can be made from most rifugi; to call Soccorso Alpino (Alpine Rescue), dial T 118. A directory of refuges is available at W www .trentinorifugi.com, www.suedtirol-ferien.it and www.huts-bivouacs.com.

Skiing

TRE NTI NO-ALTO ADI GE

| Trento

Trentino-Alto Adige is home to many of Italy’s top ski resorts. Popular with families, and with a fairly laid back atmosphere, skiing is often not top priority – it’s more a case of long lunches on a sunny terrace after a morning of piste-bashing. Italian tourist offices overseas, and the regional offices in Italy, have details of Settimane Bianche (White Weeks). These are bargain package deals offering full or half-board and a ski-pass, although be wary of deals very late in the season – the downside of all those south-facing slopes is that the snow deteriorates fast in the warmer spring weather. January and February are the best months to come; March can also be good although by mid-April the winter season is over. As for where to ski: Madonna di Campiglio is popular with wealthy Italian families as it has a good sun and snow record (it’s a relatively high resort for Italy) and a lively nightlife. Canazei has a huge ski area ideal for intermediates. The resorts of the Val Gardena (Ortisei, S Cristina and Selva) also offer plenty of variety in terms of places to eat, stay and ski. Beginners and intermediates can cruise the slopes in beautiful surroundings at the fashionable resort of Cortina d’Ampezzo, although the ski area is fragmented and much of it only accessible by bus from the resort. The big attraction of skiing in the eastern Dolomites is that twelve different ski areas are linked, creating long circuits including the famous “Sella Ronda” which takes you around Marmolada (3342m). You can access all areas with the Dolomiti Superski pass (€200–250 for 7 days, depending on the season in 2010) giving use of 1220km of runs and 450 cable cars and chair lifts (see W www.dolomitisuperski .com for details.) Corvara is the main resort on the Sella Ronda, and is popular with foodies and families; the slopes will appeal mainly to intermediates, but there are steeper runs at Arabba to challenge advanced skiers. To help decide which resort to choose, check out details of chair lifts, altitude and length of runs on the regional tourist office websites W www.south-tirol.com and www.trentino.to. Note that there’s also summer skiing from June to November on glaciers accessible from the Val Senales, the Stelvio Pass, and the new, inexpensive resort at the Passo Tonale (which links Trentino with Lombardy), although in these days of climate change this is dependent on the state of the glaciers and there being a good dump of snow the winter before. From December, get the latest on snow conditions in Trentino at W www .meteotrentino.it. Otherwise check the national winter weather website W www .meteomont.net.

Trento Just three hours from Venice by train, and less than an hour from Verona, TRENTO makes a good base for exploring the southern part of this region, not least because of its bus services into the Dolomites. Overshadowed by Monte Bedone just 13km away, the town is beautifully situated, encircled by mountains and exuding a relaxed pace of life. The central, café-lined piazza is all fading frescoes and cobblestones, with chic fashion shops in the narrow streets off it. MART, Italy’s largest modern art museum and Lake Garda (see p.203) lie 25km south. From the tenth to the eighteenth centuries, Trento was a powerful bishopric ruled by a dynasty of princes; it was the venue of the Council of Trent between 1545 and 1563, when the Catholic Church, threatened by the Reformation in northern Europe, met to plan its counterattack. Later, throughout the nineteenth century, ownership of the city, which remained in Austrian hands, was hotly contested, and it only became properly part of Italy in 1919, after World War I.

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Arrival and information

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Trento’s main bus and train stations are almost next door to each other at Piazza Dante and Via Pozzo. A secondary, combined station – Trento-Malé, run by a private company (T 0461.238.350) – is on Via Dogana 2, just beyond the train station (you don’t need to leave the main station – just follow platform 1, 100m heading north). From here you can get electric trains up to Cles in the Val di Non, Malé in the Val di Sole, and buses to the ski resorts of Madonna di Campiglio and Marilleva 900, and Lake Molveno. Visit W www.ttesercizio.it for timetables for all transport in Trentino or call the information line (T 0461.821.000). The tourist office, close to the main train station at Via Manci 2 (daily 9am–7pm; T 0461.216.000, W www.apt.trento.it), stocks Trentino Mese, the city’s monthly listings guide and sells the extremely useful Trento Card (€10 for 24hr, €15 for 48hr) offering free city transport and free entrance to many museums plus discounts in restaurants and shops. The regional information website (W www .visittrentino.it) has details on mountain refuges, transport, hiking, skiing and agriturismo accommodation.

Accommodation RO

| Trento

There is a good range of accommodation for all budgets in and around Trento; the busiest times are over Christmas and New Year. Bolzano IN

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showers) and a generously proportioned single with a double bed. 4–5 Locanda La Canonica Piazza Monsignore Nicolini 4–5, Villazzano T 0461.392.218, W www.locandacanonicatrento.it. In the verdant village of Villazzano, a ten-minute bus ride from the centre of Trento (bus #6 or #13 every six minutes), this sixteenth-century building was built to lodge bishops who came to the Council of Trent. The original colours of the walls have been replicated, and its twelve airy rooms have limed wood ﬂoors and white ﬁttings – several have cooking facilities – though the restaurant below is excellent (see p.225). An ideal choice for families, as Villazzano is blessed with parks and playgrounds. 1 Ostello Giovane Europa Via Torre Vanga 9, 500m to your right beyond the station T0461.263.484, W www.gayaproject.org. Busy hostel popular with students in term time (facilities include a study as well as a laundry and TV room). Four- to six-bed rooms, plus singles, doubles and triples attract an eclectic mix of solo travellers, young workers, families and budget-minded older couples. Dorm beds from €14–16, doubles €21 per person and singles €25. Meals €10. 1 Venezia Piazza Duomo 45 T0461.234.559 or 234.114, Wwww.hotelveneziatn.it. The cheapest hotel in the centre, some of whose rooms have a fabulous view of the Duomo and piazza. Comfortable though old-fashioned and lacklustre, but the location couldn’t be better. 2

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Albergo Accademia Vicolo Colico 4–6 T0461.233.600, Wwww.accademiahotel.it. Smart family-run hotel in a quiet location, a short walk from the train station, with a shady courtyard garden. There are forty rooms, gradually undergoing refurbishment. New-style rooms are in restful grey, stone and white, the junior suites coming with hydromassage showers or baths; old-style rooms are all white. Wi-ﬁ downstairs only (€2 per hour). Next door is a pleasant enoteca, Araliki; see p.224. 5 Hotel America Via Torre Verde 50 T 0461.983.010, W www.hotelamerica.it. So called because the owner’s grandfather founded the hotel on his return from working in America in 1923: personal, attentive service and enthusiastic staff make the America the best of central Trento’s hotels. Rooms are comfortable, and around half come with baths. There are also mini serviced apartments with cooking facilities, and a couple of rooms with ﬂower-ﬁlled terraces and views over rooftops to the mountains (ask for one when you book). Free wi-ﬁ in rooms. Apartments €385 per week. 3 Aquila d’Oro Via Belenzani 76 T0461.986.282, Wwww.aquiladoro.it. Contemporary rooms each featuring a wall-to-ceiling photo, occupying the six storeys of an old pink townhouse a stone’s throw from the Duomo. Every ﬂoor has a Junior Suite (each with a huge bathroom and romantic sauna lit with a constellation of tiny star-like lights), a standard room (small bathroom with bisazza-mosaic-walled

The City Trento was known as Tridentum to the Romans, a name celebrated by the eighteenth-century Neptune fountain in the central Piazza del Duomo, which gives onto streets – notably Via Belanzani – lined with frescoed palaces, many of them built in the sixteenth century when Trento was an important market town. The three most signiﬁcant meetings of the Council of Trent – convened to confront the growth of Protestantism and to establish the so-called CounterReformation – took place in the Duomo between 1545 and 1563. The building itself was begun in the thirteenth century, but wasn’t completed until the sixteenth. Inside, an enormous carved marble baldachino over the altar is a replica of the one in St Peter’s, Rome. The most interesting part of the building lies under the church, where a medieval crypt (Mon–Sat 10am–noon, 2.30–5.30pm; €1.50) and foundations of an early Christian basilica built over the tomb of St Vigilio, the third bishop of Trento, were discovered in 1977. The neighbouring Museo Diocesano Tridentino e Basilica Paleocristiana (Wed–Sun: June–Sept 9.30am–12.30pm & 2.30–6pm; Oct–May 9.30am–12.30pm & 2–5.30pm; €4; W www.museodio cesanotridentino.it), housed in the Palazzo Pretorio, includes large annotated paintings of the sessions of the Council of Trent and some carved altarpieces from the church of San Zeno in the Val di Non. The building is appealing in itself, too, with its ﬁshtail battlements, heavy studded doors and a view from the upper ﬂoor of the frescoed palaces around the square.

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| Trento

Also of particular interest is the Spazio Archeologico Sotterraneo del Sas (S.A.S.S.) underground archeological area on Piazza Cesare Battisti (Tues–Sun: June to Sept 9.30am–1pm & 2–6pm; Oct–May 9am–1pm & 2–5.30pm; €2). In the 1990s, when Trento’s theatre was being restored, archeologists discovered around 1700 square metres of a Roman road – complete with sewage system – along with buildings and remains of the city walls dating from between 1000 BC and 400 AD. You can see it all from the visitor centre, built on a level with the existing road. The most powerful of the Trento princes was Bernardo Clesio, who in the late ﬁfteenth and early sixteenth centuries built up much of the city’s art collection, a good proportion of which is held in the Castello del Buonconsiglio (Tues–Sun: Nov–May 9.30am–5pm; June–Oct 10am–6pm; €7; W www.buonconsiglio.it), another venue of the Council of Trent, a short walk from Piazza Duomo. It’s really two castles: the thirteenth-century Castelvecchio and the extension built in 1530 called the Magno Palazzo, in which several rooms frescoed with classical subjects by the Dossi family and Romanino lead off an inner courtyard. Upstairs is the Museo Provinciale d’Arte, whose highlight is the Ciclo dei Mesi (Cycle of the Months), in the Torre d’Aquila (a tour costs an extra €1 and must be booked in advance, Tues–Fri, on T 0461.492.840). These frescoes dating from 1391 to 1407 show scenes of farming and courtly life. To recuperate afterwards, wind down in the San Marco public gardens (with lots of shade and children’s play areas). Finally, before going down to Rovereto to see the magniﬁcent MART (see p.226), check out the exhibitions at its Trento seat, Palazzo delle Albere, at Via Roberto da Sanseverino 45 (Tues–Sun 10am–6pm; €6): to get there follow Via Verdi from Piazza del Duomo across the railway to the river, and turn left.

Eating, drinking and nightlife You can eat well in Trento and the surrounding area, feasting on unfussy local specialities. Foodies might consider a winter visit as, from late November until Christmas, hundreds of food and craft stalls ﬁll the streets to celebrate the feast of St Lucy. For the rest of the year De Matte on Piazza del Duomo sells a fantastic (if expensive) range of fruit and vegetables, along with local jams, honeys and (for taking home) fabulous dried mushrooms; while Antichi Sapori Trentino, at Via Belenzani 56, and Mattei La Salumeria at Via Mazzini 46, both sell local hams and salamis, along with cheese, and deli produce such as olives and vegetables sott’olio (preserved in oil). Trento is also blessed with a branch of A Grom, Piazza del Duomo 27 (open daily; see also Turin, p.77), a northern Italian ice-cream chain committed to using seasonal and often organic produce, with ﬂavours changing from month to month. The queues are long, partly because the ice cream is “turned” before every serving, partly because no one in Trento goes anywhere else. For organic fast food, such as salads, soups and milkshakes, head for Milky Walky, Via Garibaldi 27, just behind the Duomo. Trento doesn’t resound with nightlife, but has a few good bars that stay open late, notably the Antica Birreria Pedavena (see below) for beer, and the bar at the Chiesa (see opposite) or the Enoteca Araliki, Vicolo Colico 6, off Piazza Santa Maria Maggiore, for wine. Restaurants and bars

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Ai Vicoli Piazza Santi Verzeri 1 T0461 260.273. A lovely setting on a tiny piazza close to the Duomo, serving dishes that skilfully combine tradition and innovation. Try the sformatino (like a smooth mousse) of corn and fontina cheese with local black trufﬂes (€12), or a salad of wheat berries with anchovies, capers, tomato and mozzarella (€8).

Primi include delectable gnocchi served with black trufﬂes and butter (€12), while among the secondi is a typical mountain dish of carne salada (cured beef) sliced thin and tossed in a pan, with beans and onions. Antica Birreria Pedavena Piazza Fiera 13 T0461.986.255, Wwww.birreriapedavena.com. Huge, bustling, and utterly traditional birreria,

| Trento

salami) served with a bowl of roast peppers and preserved onions (€10). Primi include penne with a ragù of rabbit (€7) or wild boar (€8), or a delicious vegetable orzotto (like a risotto, but made with barley, €7), while the best of the secondi is the tortel di patate – crisp, golden potato cakes served with hams and salamis. For pudding, there’s a great apple strudel (€2.50). Lo Scrigno del Duomo Piazza del Duomo 29 T0461.220.030. Elegant wine bar (and Michelinstarred restaurant) right opposite the Duomo, serving up some highly creative, delicious and pretty expensive dishes in a gorgeous palazzo with frescoed beams. The restaurant has two menus which change every three weeks – meat, Terra (€65) and ﬁsh, Mare (€75). You can either go for the full menus, select a couple of courses, or mix and match between the two. In the wine bar food is more simple and prices are more reasonable, but the quality still excellent: home-made spinach gnocchi with melted butter, sage and wild mushrooms (€10), grilled steak with potato cake and peperonata (€23), with three-course menus priced at €35 including wine. Orso Grigio Via degli Orti 19 T0461.984.400. Relaxed, welcoming place where you can eat inside or out under a canopy. Feast on fabulous vegetables sott’olio (€3) or a carpaccio di carne salada (cured beef, €8) followed by local specialities such as ruﬁoi (€9), a kind of handmade ravioli stuffed with Savoy cabbage and served with melted butter and parmesan, or, in season, a soup of porcini mushrooms (€10). Secondi include polenta with local ﬁnferli mushrooms and cheese (€15) or, for the unsentimental, a grilled ﬁlleto di puledro (€15) – young horse. Closed Sun.

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featuring three kinds of artisan beer (dark, light and weiss) brewed on the premises. The food is hearty and authentic, featuring smoked and cured meats and cheeses – the piatto pedavena with goulash, pork, wurstel, canederli, sauerkraut and polenta (€11.50) is a good way to sample the most famous Trento dishes, though if your appetite is more modest you might prefer a simple pasta dish (€6) or pizza (from €6). Chiesa Via San Marco T0461.238.766. Post-modern styling (violet, lime and magenta suede upholstery, halogen lights, a blue neon bar, and state-of-the-art ﬂower arrangements) in a seventeenth-century palazzo marvellously set in the San Marco gardens a stone’s throw from the Palazzo Buonconsiglio. The menu is seasonal, Modern European, and features innovations such as apple risotto (€10) and black rice (riso di venere) with monkﬁsh and vegetables (€13), along with more conventional dishes such as mixed grilled ﬁsh (€15) or roast pork with tomatoes, green peppers and potatoes (€17); you can also sample local vintages and snack on salami, cheese and antipasti in the less formal wine-bar. Outdoor eating in summer – ideal if you have kids as they can run free and play in between courses. Closed Sun eve and Mon. Expensive. Locanda La Canonica Piazza Monsignore Nicolini 4–5, Villazzano T0461.392.218, Wwww.locandacanonicatrento.it. A breath of fresh air, this unpretentious and relaxed locanda, occupying a labyrinth of white-vaulted rooms and cellars serves a selection of simple, excellently executed local dishes. For antipasto there is a tagliere, a wooden platter of great-quality hams, cheese and salami (including a dark, smoky donkey

Listings Car rental Avis, 53 Via Brennero T 0461.420.276; Sixt, Piazza Leonardo da Vinci 3 T0461.263.467; Hertz, Lung’Adige Apuleio 20 T 0461.421.555. Doctor Guardia Medica, Via Malta 4 (T 0461.915.809), offers out-of-hours (Mon–Fri 8pm–8am, and all weekend) medical service. Hospitals In an emergency, call T118. Casualty T 0461.903.206 at the Ospedale Santa Chiara, Largo Medaglie d’Oro 9. Internet Wireless internet café: Olimpia, Via Belenzani 33 (€5/hr).

Markets Mon–Sat mornings, food in Piazza Vittoria; Thurs mornings, weekly market in the historic centre; second Sat of month (except Jan & Aug), ﬂea market in Piazza Garzetti. Pharmacies Dall’Armi, Piazza del Duomo 10; Madonna, Via Manci 42; S. Chiara, Via S. Croce 57. Police Via Fratelli Bronzetti T0461.916.111. Post ofﬁce Piazza A. Vittoria 20 T0461.984.714. Mon–Fri 8.30am–6.30pm, Sat 8am–12.30pm. Public toilets Via Belenzani; free. Taxis Radiotaxi, Via Degasperi 27 T 0461.930.002.

Around Trento Trento’s cycle path network is excellent, and with free bike rental if you purchase a Trento Card, it’s well worth exploring as an alternative to crowded buses and cable cars. The city is linked via the grander Valle dell Adige Cycle Path to Bolzano to the north and Verona to the south, with many charming towns and villages along either route.

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| The Dolomiti di Brenta

A cable car runs from the San Lorenzo bridge, near Trento’s bus station (every 15–30min until 10pm; €0.90), to the lower slopes of the towering Monte Bondone, from where you get a wonderful view. A ﬁve- or ten-minute walk brings you to the village of SARDAGNA, giving you a preview of alpine meadows and glimpses of the Dolomites in the distance. An enjoyable half-day trip from the city (and reachable by local bus or train, or along the Adige Cycle Path) is a visit to the ethnographic museum (Museo degli Usi e Costumi della Gente Trentina; Tues–Sat 9am–12.30pm & 2.30–6pm; €5; W www.museosanmichele.it) at SAN MICHELE ALL’ADIGE, 15km northeast of Trento. One of the largest of its kind in Europe, with exhibits ranging from re-creations of village houses (complete with muddy boots drying by the stove) to displays on hunting, grazing and wine making, the museum gives a real ﬂavour of what life in Trentino was like until the twentieth century. Some of the bloodiest engagements of World War I took place around Monte Pasubio, to the southeast of Trento. A total of 460,000 lives were lost – many from the cold – and 947,000 were wounded on the Italian side alone. The recently created Sentiero della Pace (Path of Peace) follows the front, from the Ortles mountains east across the ranges to Marmolada, the trail littered with old bullets and barbed wire. The Campana dei Caduti, made out of melted-down cannon, tolls every evening in memory of the dead of both sides, from the Colle di Miravalle, a hill just outside the nearby town of Rovereto. Rovereto: MART

A trip to Italy’s largest modern-art museum, MART, in the centre of Rovereto, a ﬁfteen-minute train journey south of Trento, is one of the highlights of Trentino. The striking building at Corso Bettini 43 (Tues–Sun 10am–6pm, Fri late night opening until 9pm; €10; W www.mart.trento.it) was designed by Mario Botta and opened in December 2002. A changing selection from the permanent collection of more than nine thousand paintings, designs and sculptures is on show in the spacious, light-ﬁlled galleries. Particularly strong are the collections of Futurist and twentieth-century avant-garde art: Italian Futurist Fortunato Depero bequeathed his collection of three thousand works including drawings, tapestries and sculpture. Metaphysical painters including Giorgio de Chirico and Giorgio Morandi, and Arte Povera artists are well represented, and the museum has made especially important purchases of American Pop Art, including works by Lichtenstein, Rauschenberg and Warhol. An equal pleasure is discovering the work of Italian artists whom you might not have come across elsewhere – the spindly, metal sculptures of Fausto Melotti, for example, or the striking Sale Nero by Pier Paolo Calzolari, a frozen line made through burnt salt, chilled by a fridge motor. The gallery also runs an exciting programme of temporary exhibitions. The Casa Museo Depero nearby, at Via della Terra 53 (Tues–Sun 10am–6pm; €6), was laid out by Depero himself a year before his death in 1960. The space shows off his large cloth collages – the most precious items in the MART collection – to great effect.

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Northwest of Trento lies a mountain range with a separate identity from the more famous Dolomitic peaks to the east. With their sawtoothed peaks and glaciers, the Dolomiti di Brenta have a rougher character than, say, the Catinaccio/ Rosengarten range in the main Dolomites – and their trails are far less welltrodden. While they are steep, few peaks rise above 3000m, and the paths are easy

Pinzolo and the Val Genova

| The Dolomiti di Brenta

Buses from Trento to Madonna di Campiglio skirt Monte Bondone and wind their way past a series of patchy hills and villages, passing Lago di Toblino. From here, the road continues west, turning into the Valle Rendena at Tione di Trento, where a more remote landscape of pasture and forest begins. Two villages well worth jumping off the bus for are the ski village of PINZOLO and Carisolo, which lie just a couple of kilometres apart on the main road, for their well-preserved sixteenth-century frescoes of the danse macabre. Simone Baschenis was one of a family of itinerant artists who decorated several small churches in Trentino in the 1500s. Among them was Pinzolo’s romanesque church of San Vigilio (Tues–Sat 9.30–11.30am & 2.30–5.30pm, Sun 2.30–5.30pm; stays open later in summer). On the south facade, a band of skeletons playing trumpets and bag-pipes accompanies a procession representing the social order of the day – from emperors, cardinals and ﬁnely dressed ladies to soldiers, beggars and even a cherubic toddler who has a mini skeleton friend to remind him of his own mortality. Inside is a ﬁne Annunciation from the thirteenth century, attributed to the Tuscan school, and other works by Simone Baschenis, among them the Life of San Vigilio, the young Bishop of Trento. Another good reason to pause in Pinzolo is that it makes a less expensive overnight stop than its sister ski resort of Madonna di Campiglio up the road, especially if you stay at Salvatera, a lovely B&B at Via Marconi 44 (T 0465.501 171; 1 ; minimum stay of a week in mid-August). There are a couple of small campsites too; one of these, Faè della Val Rendena (T 0465.507.178; June–Sept & Dec–April), is near Sant’Antonio di Mavignola. The other church in these parts decorated by the same artists lies two kilometres from Carisolo, on the road into the beautiful Val Genova. Near the start of the valley you’ll see a sign pointing down a track to the church of Santo Stefano (Tues–Sat 10–11.30am & 3.30–5pm, Sun 3.30–5pm), which has more frescoes of the danse macabre by the Baschenis on an outside wall, and others inside the spare, atmospheric interior depicting the legend of Charlemagne’s passage through the Val di Campiglio on the way to his coronation in Rome. Back on the Val Genova road, your route follows a cascading river up through woods to an information point at Ponte Verde (4km from Carisolo) where you can rent bikes or take a footpath that passes several waterfalls, spectacular in the spring melt and after rain, or in winter when they are frozen solid and a glacial turquoise inside. Most impressive is the Cascata di Nárdis, a ﬁve-minute walk from Ponte Verde, where several channels spill down the granite rock walls of the mountainside. A 4.5-kilometre walk or bike ride will bring you to Ponte Maria (no cars are

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to follow. It should be said, though, that the walking is strenuous. Climbers come here for the towers of Cima Tosa and Cima Brenta, accessible by vie ferrate – iron “ladders” knocked into the rock (see p.220). Their position, clinging tenaciously to the rock walls, is sensational. If you are looking for easier strolls, Val Genova has a gentler beauty, with a woodland path taking you past a number of waterfalls cascading down the mountainside. The range is circled by a good but slow and winding road, the southern half of which passes through the quiet lake resort of Molveno. The Trento-to-Madonna di Campiglio road takes you past the frescoed churches and wooded valleys of the Valle Rendena before arriving at Campiglio itself, the best base for skiing in the area, and a transport hub for walkers and climbers. The northern half of the Brenta mountains is bounded by the Val di Non and the Val di Sole, both served by the private Trento-Malé railway line.

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allowed beyond this point) from where a shuttle bus runs ( July & Aug daily, every 30min) another 8.5km to Malga Bédole (1584m), a settlement used by shepherds in summer. A two- to three-hour hike from there along trail 212 is the Rifugio Città di Trento (T 0465.501.193; mid-June to mid-Sept & mid-March to 10 May; access in snowy weather is from Passo Tonale by cable car and then chair-lift) at 2480m, within reach of the Adamello glaciers. You don’t need a car to get to Val Genova – two express bus services run from Madonna di Campiglio, and from Pinzolo and Carisolo, to Bédole once a day in the morning, returning late afternoon. TRE NTI NO-ALTO ADI GE

Madonna di Campiglio

| The Dolomiti di Brenta

The major village in the Val Rendena is MADONNA DI CAMPIGLIO, an upmarket ski resort 70km from Trento known as “Campiglio” for short. This is where the Austro-Hungarian aristocracy holidayed in the nineteenth century, although not much of that era remains – what you see now is a very twentiethcentury resort, hotel balconies groaning under the weight of geraniums. Winter sports and a quiet summer hiking season are Campiglio’s reason for existence and the climbing and walking in the Dolomiti di Brenta are superb. A dozen buses a day run from Trento to Madonna di Campiglio’s main square, while there’s a train (approx hourly) to Malé, 23km north, from where handily timed bus connections will take you into town. The helpful tourist office, not far from the main square on Via Pradalago 4 (Mon–Sat 9am–12.30pm & 2–6pm, Sun 9am–12.30pm; T 0465.447.501, W www.campiglio.to), can provide accommodation information and detailed maps (€1) of day-hikes from town. A few doors along, at Via Pradalago 17, the Alpine Guide office (daily 10am–noon & 4–8pm; T 0465.442.634, W www.guidealpinecampiglio.it) has information on hiking trails and vie ferrate and offers a variety of climbing courses and mountain excursions in summer. Internet facilities are available at the library (Mon–Sat afternoons) upstairs at the lakeside sports centre. As Campiglio’s hotels can be pricey and often insist on a three- to seven-night minimum stay, the best option, if you’re walking, is to overnight in a rifugio (see p.220). The best way to approach the trailheads is by cable car from Carlo Magno, 3km north of the village centre, to Grostè (daily: mid-June to mid-Sept 8.30am–12.30pm & 2–5pm; middle two weeks in Aug from 8am; €10.50 one way, €15.50 return). If you’re not into hard trekking, an alternative is to take the Funivia Cinque Laghi cable car (late June to late Aug daily 8.30am–12.50pm & 2–5.20pm; €7.50 one way, €10 return) from the centre of the village west into the Presanella group. A scenic two-and-a-half-hour route will take you via Lago Ritorto back down to the valley.

Walking in the Brenta massif

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Once you’re at GROSTÈ (2437m) you can plan your own routes as long as you have a decent hiking map. Rifugio Graffer (T 0465.441.358, W www.graffer.com; June 20–Sept 20 & Dec–April) is conveniently next to the cable-car terminus, at 2261m. You can pick up trail 316 nearby, and set out across boulder-strewn slopes towards the Sella and Tuckett rifugi at 2272m (both T 0465.441.226, W www .sat.tn.it; June 20–Sept 20). The latter is named after the most prodigious of nineteenth-century climbers, Francis Fox Tuckett, who wrote that he “roamed amongst toppling rocks, and spires of white and brown and bronze coloured stone” when he climbed in this range, and succeeded in opening up a difficult new route called the Bochetta di Tuckett. As ice axes hadn’t been invented, he negotiated snowﬁelds with a ladder and alpenstock (long staff ), and carried joints of meat and bottles of wine for mountaintop breakfasts.

Trail 328 (becoming 318) starts just past the Sella and Tuckett refuges, bringing you (in about four hours from Grostè) to Rifugio Brentei (T 0465.441.244, W www.rifugiobrentei.it; mid-June to Sept), set at 2489m, midway between the Cima Brenta and Cima Tosa mountain peaks. At this point, you’ll probably want to stay overnight here. Next day, if you can cope with snowﬁelds, you can extend your walk by trekking up to the Bocca di Brenta and crossing over the ridge to meet trail 319 down to Molveno, or simply return to Campiglio via trails 318 and 316 (3hr 30min).

| East of Trento

On the other side of the Brenta mountain range from Campiglio is the lakeside village of MOLVENO, and 4km away by road or beautiful wooded trail is the slightly smaller town of ANDALO. Both are known for the quality of their wild mushrooms, and many Italians come here to pick them, getting hold of a mushrooming licence (€5 per day, €20 per week) from the local comune or the tourist office at Andalo on Piazza Dolomiti ( July & Aug Mon–Sat 9am–12.30pm & 3.30–7pm; Sept–June Mon–Sat 9am–12.30pm & 3–6.30pm; Sun throughout the year 9.30am–12.30pm; T 0461.585.836). A word of warning – each year 40,000 or so Italians suffer mushroom poisoning, so obviously only pick them if you know what you are doing. Another option is to head for the Parco Faunistico’s Brown Bear Area in Spormaggiore (mid-June to mid-Sept daily 9.30am–6.30pm; €5, €4 for under 14, free for under 6; T 0461.653.622, W www.parcofaunistico.tn.it), about 14km northeast of Molveno and accessible by bus from there. The Life Ursus project has created a “natural habitat” for a declining bear population, with animals taken from Italian zoos to prepare them for reintroduction into the wild. The enclosed outdoor area (follow the signs for the area orsi) lets you observe the bears – although the stars of the show spend a lot of time sleeping. A visitor centre back in the village (same hours; combined ticket with Brown Bear Area; W www .pnab.it) tells the story of the project.

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Molveno and Andalo

East of Trento If you’re into high mountains, a trip east of Trento to a group of stunning pinnacles and bare peaks called the Pale di San Martino is unmissable. Now 2000m above sea level, the range was formed as a coral reef sixty million years ago – white shells crunch underfoot as you walk, and the pale rock reﬂects light, even at dawn. The Pale are part of the Parco Naturale Panevéggio, an area of gently rolling woods and summer pastures with many walks, trails and campsites. The nearest resort is San Martino di Castrozzo, the terminus for buses travelling from Trento along the Valsugana and the Val di Fiemme.

Imer, Mezzano and Fiera di Primiero On the way from Trento to San Martino you pass through the archetypal tourist villages of IMER and, a couple of kilometres east, MEZZANO. The valley they’re located in is wide, with hay meadows spreading either side, and makes a good place to walk or cycle, with cycle tracks linking the villages and easy paths running into the foothills. As far as accommodation goes, an alternative to the alpine-style hotels in the villages is Camping Calavise, a well-signposted 1km from Imer, which has a bar and swimming pool nearby as well as a wi-ﬁ zone

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| East of Trento

and jazz concerts in summer (T 0439.67.468, W www.campingcalavise.it; €7 per person, plus €6.50 for tent and car). Or you could head for the Rifugio Fonteghi (T 0439.67.043, W www.rifugiofonteghi.com; April–Oct): the 45-minute walk along the path on the south side of the Val Noana reservoir will help you build up an appetite for their home-made pasta dishes, home-grown veg and game – half pension costs €50 per person. Around 4km from Imer, FIERA DI PRIMIERO is a larger resort and market town with a tourist office ( July & Aug Mon–Sat 9am–12.30pm & 3.30–7pm, Sun 9.30am–12.30pm; Sept–June Mon–Sat 8.30am–12.30pm & 3.30–6pm, Sun 9.30am–noon; T 0439.62.407). It’s a major crossroads in the area, from where buses run up to the beginning of the Val Canali and to Passo Cereda (1369m). The mountains around Fiera were worked for silver, iron and copper from the thirteenth century, and miners’ guilds paid for the town’s late Gothic parish church near the fortiﬁed Palazzo delle Miniere (where the precious metals were guarded before being sent to the mint). Inside the church is a beautiful painting of The Hunt of the Mystic Unicorn and a ﬁne ﬁfteenth-century carved altar showing scenes from the Virgin Mary’s life. Recent excavations have brought to light the remains of a paleo-Christian basilica dating from the ﬁfth to sixth centuries. It’s well worth a stroll round the village – paintings made in the sixteenth century on the outside of some of the older houses have survived the elements: in one slightly disturbing one, a Madonna della Misericordia shelters a white-cowled member of the Battuti fraternity ﬂogging himself with a scourge.

San Martino di Castrozza The road into SAN MARTINO DI CASTROZZA twists and turns, and you feel like you’re in the middle of nowhere until the resort’s new hotels appear around the corner. One of the smarter Dolomite resorts, tourism took off here in the nineteenth century, but as far back as the Middle Ages, travellers and pilgrims stopped here for the night, staying at the monastery, of which only traces remain. Visitors come here now for skiing and hiking – hourly buses south to Fiera di Primiero and Imer, and cable-car routes into the mountains make San Martino one of the best walking bases in the area. The tourist office, next to the bus stop at Via Passo Rolle 165 (mid-June to Sept Mon–Sat 9am–12.30pm & 3.40–7pm; Sun July & Aug 9.30am–12.30pm & 4pm–7pm, June & Sept 9.30am–12.30pm; Oct to mid-June Mon–Sat 9am–12.30pm & 2.20–5.30pm, Sun 9.30am–noon; T 0439.768.867, W www.sanmartino.com) has a detailed walking map of the area, giving information about rifugi, difficulty levels, approximate times and so on. For a low-cost place to stay, try the Ostello Dolomiti, around 1km from the town centre near the Malga Ces lifts and Sass Maòr campsite on Via Laghetti 43 (T 0439.769.166, W www.ostellodolomiti.com; from €22–32 per person in a six-bed dorm depending on the season; bedrooms for four also available). Closer to town, Vienna (T 0439.68.078; 3 ) on Via Herman Panzer 1 has a sauna, Turkish bath and spa. The alternative is to pitch a tent at the village campsite, Sass Maòr (T 0439.68.347, W www.campingsassmaor.it), on Via Laghetti – booking ahead is essential in high season.

Parco Naturale Panevéggio

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Out of San Martino, traffic ﬁles up to Passo di Rolle, a beautiful stretch of high moorland dotted with avalanche breaks and a few sheep. There are only two buses a day, so a car really helps here. The Passo di Rolle falls within the Parco Naturale Panevéggio (W www.parcopan.org), which protects a vast area of ancient woodland as well as the high peaks of the Pale di San Martino. Crisscrossed by nature trails and

Hiking in the Pale di San Martino

| East of Trento

The most dramatic part of the Panevéggio national park is the Pale di San Martino – a large plateau surrounded by razor-sharp peaks. Ranging from 2600m to 3200m in altitude, you should be prepared for snow, wind and rain, even in the summer, as well as scorching sunlight and the most stupendous views. There are two main entry points – the Val Canali (accessed from Fiera di Primiero) and the cable car from San Martino di Castrozza. The Val Canali was described by Amelia Edwards in the nineteenth century as the most “lonely, desolate and tremendous scene to be found this side of the Andes”. Things have changed since the arrival of the Alta Via 2 walking route which runs through here but the valley retains a feeling of isolation. Buses from Fiera di Primiero run to the trailheads of the valley via the Passo Cereda. You’ll ﬁnd the official campsite, the Castelpietra (T 0439.62.426, W www.castelpietra.it; June–Oct & Nov–April; €6.80 per person, €9.40 per pitch including parking and electricity, bungalows 1 ) opposite the national park centre, and there are further places to camp at the head of the glen. Rifugio Treviso (T 0439.62.311; late June to mid-Sept) is a possible overnight stop, while the more luxurious Cant del Gal (T 0439.62.997; 2 ), further down the valley, has ten rooms and a good restaurant – one of its specialities is local cheese tosela served with mushrooms and polenta. A stiff ascent from Rifugio Treviso brings you onto the Altopiano delle Pale at Passo di Pradidali, where eagles can be seen circling above the barren plateau and the silence is broken every so often by a trickle of falling stones. Once you are at this altitude, there are many possibilities for linking up with other trails across the stark upland. Rifugio Pedrotti alla Rosetta (T 0439.68.308 or 347.049.8929; June 20–Sept 20), at 2581m, is the nearest place with accommodation (a 2hr 30min hike north; also reachable by cable car – see below); run by Roberta Lott and her alpine-guide husband Mariano, its facilities include hot showers, a restaurant with good home-cooking and bar. The fastest route into the Pale di San Martino is via cable car from San Martino. The Colverde funicular ( June 14–Sept 20 daily 8am–4.45pm; journey up €10, down €9, return trip €16.50; T 0439.68.204) from the village runs to the foot of the Pale, from where the Rosetta chair lift takes you up to to Rifugio Pedrotti alla Rosetta perched on the edge of the Altopiano. From the Rosetta chair-lift terminus, you can make for Rifugio Pradidali at 2278m (T 0439.64.180; June 20–Sept 20), a walk and descent of three hours. A more ambitious walk would be to continue on from the refuge over the Passo di Ball, returning from there to San Martino or

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ancient paved paths called reversi, the park gives you a sense of rural life on the summer pastures and in the forest, and makes an atmospheric venue for some of the open-air concerts in the Suoni delle Dolomiti series (see p.218). Entry to the park costs €2 and the Panevéggio visitor centre offers guided half-day walks into the forest (€5). There are three visitor centres in the park: San Martino (late June to early Sept daily 9am–12.30pm & 3.30–7pm; T 0439.768.859), Villa Welsperg in the Val Canali ( June–Sept daily 9am–12.30pm & 3–6pm; Oct–Dec Mon–Fri 9.30am–12.30pm & 2–5pm; Jan–May Mon–Sat 10am–12.30pm & 3–6pm; also open certain Sundays in low season, call to check; T 0439.765.973) and Panevéggio, 7km from the pass (9am–12.30pm & 2–5.30pm: early June to mid-Sept daily; Christmas to March Tues & Fri; mid-April to early June Sun only; T 0462.576.283). You can camp next to Lago Panevéggio: the entrance is at the end of the track marked “Area della Sosta”, just past the village. Facilities are minimal and stays are limited to 24 hours. There’s a proper campsite, Bellamonte (T 0462.576.119, W www .campingbellamonte.it; €7 per person, €2 per tent, plus extra for vehicle), 4km down the road to Predazzo (see p.232) surrounded by meadows and hay lofts.

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descending over into Val Canali at Rifugio Cant del Gal. If you prefer the relative security of a guided trek, ask at the desk of the Gruppo Guide Alpine (daily 4–7pm; T 0461.768.795), in the same building as the tourist office; they run graded excursions most days in July and August.

Val di Fiemme

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| The Catinaccio and Gruppo di Sella

Once you’re out of the conﬁnes of the park, PREDAZZO is the ﬁrst town you come to in the Val di Fiemme, which lies between two immense mountain massifs: the Latemar and the Catena di Lagorai. Predazzo has become something of a pilgrimage site for geologists, owing to the extensive collection of local rocks and fossils in the Museo Civico di Geologia on Piazza Santi Filippo e Giacomo (T 0462.500.366; July–Sept Mon–Sat 10am–noon & 5–7pm). Surprisingly accessible to non-experts, the displays include samples of the Dolomitic calcite rock ﬁrst identiﬁed by the elaborately named French mineralogist Dieudonné Sylvain Guy Tancrède de Gratet de Dolomieu. Throughout the valley, hotel hoardings are ubiquitous, and even the tiniest villages hereabouts have a plan of the mountain ranges with chair lifts marked, but behind the modern Dolomites tourist industry, this is an ancient region that from the twelfth to the seventeenth centuries was virtually autonomous. A local parliament met at the Banco de la reson, a circle of stone benches surrounded by trees in CAVALESE, the chief town of the Val di Fiemme, and the Magniﬁca Comunità of Cavalese still administers communal land. A short way beyond Cavalese’s town centre, at Via Fratelli Bronzetti 60, on the road to Tésero, is a small tourist office (Mon–Sat 9am–noon & 3.30–7pm; mid-July & Aug also Sun 9am–noon; T 0462.241.111, W www.visitﬁemme.it). Once restoration is complete, be sure to visit the fabulously frescoed medieval Palazzo della Magniﬁca Comunità in Cavalese. This was the Bishop of Trento’s summer palace, and now houses a small museum and gallery (T 0462.340.365, W www.magniﬁcacomunitaﬁemme.it; currently closed for renovation, but check if it has reopened at the tourist office) containing the original valley statutes, carefully kept in wood-panelled rooms, with ﬁne wooden ceilings and painted friezes. The building’s lack of fortiﬁcations indicates that Trento’s bishop felt safe from the armed rebellions that had plagued him in the city, and its exterior is covered in frescoes depicting St Vigilio (Trento’s patron saint). With its cobbled streets, cake shops and ice-cream outlets, Cavalese makes a relaxing afternoon stop, but if you decide to stay, head for Laurino, a central hotel in a seventeenth-century palace that’s been decorated in a beautifully pared-down Tyrolean style (T 0462.340.151, W www.hotelgarnilaurino.com; 2). TÉSERO, 4km away, has a parish church frescoed with Cristo della Domenica (Christ of the Sabbath) who stands in the middle surrounded by more than thirty symbols depicting the things you mustn’t do on a Sunday – drinking, work and commerce among them.

The Catinaccio and Gruppo di Sella

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The Catinaccio (or Rosengarten) range is one of the best-known sights in the Dolomites. This immense wall of rock along the edge of the 3000m-high massif takes on a famously rosy glow at sunset, and the mountain plays a starring role in the legends of the area. Trails across this mountain are popular with mainly Italian and German walkers and, although the zigzag paths to the peaks can be crowded in August, once you’re above the cable-car line, there’s plenty of wilderness to lose yourself in.

Access is simple enough from Vigo di Fassa, the main place to stay in the Val di Fassa, which splits off from the Val di Fiemme north of Predazzo at Moena. If you travel these roads and trails, you pass through one of the heartlands of Ladino culture (see box below). At the head of the Val di Fassa, Canazei makes a good springboard for the high plateaux of the Gruppo di Sella, and the gentler trail of the Viel del Pan, which leads down to the tiny resort of Arabba. On the northern side of the Sella group, Corvara is a much larger resort with a sizeable Ladino population.

Ladin country The Ladins (Ladini in Italian, Ladinisch in German) are a community of around 30,000 people living in the Gardena, Badia, Fassa, Livinallongo and Ampezzo valleys around the Sella massif. They’re united by their ancient language – Ladin – which was once spoken over a wide area, from Austria down to the River Po (in what’s now EmiliaRomagna). The Dolomitic Ladin language, preserved by the relative remoteness of the territory, is linked to Swiss Romansch (there are 40,000 speakers in the Swiss Engadine) and Friulano (more than 700,000 speakers in the Friuli region of Italy). The history of the Ladins is recorded in their epics, which recount tales of battles, treachery and reversals of fortune. Around 400 AD, the Ladins were constantly threatened with invasion by Germanic tribes from the north and others from the Po valley. Christianity later emerged as a major threat, but the Ladins absorbed and transformed the new religion, investing the new saints with the powers of more ancient female divinities. The Museo Ladin de Fascia (June 20–Sept 10 and Christmas, Mon–Sat 10am–12.30pm & 3.30–7pm; rest of the year Tues–Sat 3–7pm; €4; Wwww.istladin.net), between San Giovanni and Vigo di Fassa, is devoted to traditional Ladin working life and provides a fascinating introduction to Ladin culture, with intriguing exhibits on the language and history. It also has exhibits scattered throughout the territory, including a restored nineteenth-century cooperage (Botega da Pinter) at Via Dolomiti 3, in Moena; a restored watermill (Molin de Pezol) at Via Jumela 6 in Pera di Fassa; and a working, antique sawmill (La Sia) at Via Pian Trevisan in Penia, just outside Canazei. Tourist ofﬁces throughout the area have details of festivals, exhibitions and events.

| The Catinaccio and Gruppo di Sella

The Catinaccio range was described by nineteenth-century writer Theodor Christomannos as a “gigantic fortiﬁcation… the gate into the kingdom of immortal ghosts, of high-ﬂying giants”. The area’s German name, Rosengarten (rose garden), derives from the legend of Laurin, king of the dwarves, who used to grow roses here. The king, angered when he was prevented from being with his beloved princess Similde, put a spell on the roses so that no one would see them again by day or night, but forgot to include dawn and dusk, which is when the low sun gives the rock its ﬁery glow. The trails across the range cater for all levels of hiking ability; however, the going does get tough on the ridges, from where you can see as far as the Stubaier Alps, on the border with Austria, but if you buy a Kompass map and plan your route carefully, you can keep your walks well within your capabilities. The most popular approach to Catinaccio is from the hamlet of VIGO DI FASSA. The village, served by buses on the Trento–Canazei route, has a few three-star hotels – try the good-value Renato, Strada di Solar 27 (T 0462.764.006, W www.hotelrenato.it; €85 per person, half-board only), which has a spa, pool and many rooms with balconies; or the welcoming Rifugio Roda di Vael (T 0462.764.450,

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Catinaccio

233

W www.rodadivael.it; June–Sept), in a spectacular position a ninety-minute walk

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| The Catinaccio and Gruppo di Sella 234

from the village along trails 547 and 545. The trek to Torri del Vajolet (2813m) from Vigo di Fassa is the classic route up onto the range. The cable car from the village to Rifugio Ciampedie (T 0462.764.432; mid-June to mid-Oct) covers most of the ascent, after which a well-beaten trail leads through woods to the basic Rifugio Gardeccia (T 0462.763.152, W www.gardeccia.it; early June to early Oct). From here it’s a steep walk up to the Torri, although this doesn’t put off the hordes of summer weekend walkers who form a line to make the dramatic, zigzagging climb to Rifugio Re Alberto (T 0462.763.428, W www .rifugiorealberto.com; mid-June to mid-Sept; lunch and dinner daily), three hours from Rifugio Ciampedie. There’s alternative accommodation nearby at Rifugio Vàiolet (T 0462.763.292 or 769.045, W www.rifugiovajolet.com; mid-June to end Sept), a welcome base for climbers since 1897 and a ninety-minute walk from Ciampedie.

Canazei CANAZEI, a buzzing summer and winter resort at the head of the Val di Fassa (W www.fassa.com) is a stepping stone to the stupendous high road passes between here and Cortina d’Ampezzo. You may also ﬁnd yourself staying here before or after walking in the Gruppo di Sella or strolling along a much easier trail – the Viel del Pan opposite glacier-topped Marmolada. For a good base to stay, check out La Zondra (T 0462.601.233, W www.lazondra.com; 2 ), with balconied rooms on Via Pareda; or Giardino delle Rose (T 0462.602.221; 2 ) on Via Dolomiti, in the village centre; Villa Mozart (T 0462.601.254, W www.hotelvillamozart.com; half-board compulsory in high season €70 per person), also central, on Strada Roma, is geared up for motorbikers and offers good deals in spring and autumn. From Canazei, it’s well worth driving the switchback road of 27 bends that climbs for 12km towards the Passo Pordoi. Although it’s often busy with busloads of tourists heading for the scenic Great Dolomites Road (see p.249) and determined cyclists making the thousand-metre ascent, the view when you get there is unforgettable. Between mid-June and mid-September there are four buses daily from Canazei to Passo Pordoi (at 8.38am, 10.05am, 3.06pm & 4.23pm) and the journey takes between 30min and an hour, depending on whether or not you have to change at the Passo Pordoi bivio ( junction). Halfway along the road, the cable car at Pradel leads to Passo di Sella (2240m), one of the most impressive of the Dolomite passes. Paths climb from here onto the jagged peaks of the Sasso Lungo (Langkofel) and follow the ridges down onto the Alpe di Siusi. It takes two days to walk from the Sella pass, via Rifugio Vicenza (T 0471.792.323, W www.rifugiovicenza.com; June–Sept), into the Val Gardena (Grödnertal). Just past Pradel the road forks. Straight ahead is the Gruppo di Sella – an arid lunar plateau surrounded by pink, dolomitic peaks. A right-hand turning takes you up to Passo Pordoi (2242m), an astonishing vantage point between the Gruppo di Sella and Marmolada. At 3246m, Marmolada is the highest Dolomite and its rounded peak is permanently shrouded by a glacier. From here, mountains radiate in every direction, giving you a chance to identify the distinctive shapes of each of the main Dolomite ranges. In the foreground, the Sasso Lungo look like a jagged, gloved hand, ﬂanked by two prominent peaks; the Gruppo di Sella is squat and chunky; and Sciliar (Schlern), just visible in the distance, comprises a ﬂat rocky tabletop, culminating in two peaks. A small road winds downwards to Passo Falzárego, and ultimately Cortina d’Ampezzo. From Passo Pordoi you can join Alta Via 2, or if you simply want to stretch your legs, walk a short section of it known as the Viel del Pan (see below). Most tourist buses

and plenty of bikers stop at the collection of cafés and stalls at the pass. The hotels here may insist on half-board; try the biker-friendly Pordoi (T 0462.601.115, W www.passo-pordoi.it; €65 per person in high season, half-board only).

A walk along the Viel del Pan

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| Bolzano (Bozen)

If you’re not a great walker, there’s an easy twenty-minute stroll from the Passo Pordoi that gives a terriﬁc view of the Dolomites – far better than the views from the road. Pick up the Alta Via 2 trail just past the Albergo Savoia. A narrow path cut into the turf traverses the mountainside opposite the glaciers of Marmolada, which was right on the front during World War I. Entire Austrian battalions managed to overwinter inside Marmolada by blasting 8km of tunnel tens of metres deep under the ice and rock. From the seventeenth century this path was on the grain-smuggling route called the Viel del Pan (“trail of bread” in Venetian dialect), and it remained busy enough in the nineteenth century for the Guardia di Finanza to set up armed patrols along it. The contrast between the glacier on Marmolada and the peaks of the Sella group – 360 degrees of mountain – is superb. When you’ve had enough of walking, the easiest option is to return the same way to the Passo Pordoi. Or you can keep going on the same path until you reach Lago Fedaia, from where there are irregular buses in summer back to Canazei. Another possibility is to continue along the ridge, eventually heading back down to the valley to ARABBA, a small resort, where you can stay at the Garni Emma (T 0436.79.116, E [email protected]; 1 ), which has a family atmosphere and sits beside a small stream. The Canazei-to-Passo Pordoi bus (see opposite) continues on to the village, taking just over an hour.

Corvara and around The central town of the Ladin ethnic group, CORVARA is primarily a ski resort, and it also makes a good base for the excellent trails of the nearby Fánes Park (see p.246), a bus ride away, where most of the Ladin legends are based. The tourist office at Strada Col Alt 36 (Mon–Fri 8am–noon & 3–7pm, Sat 8.30am–12.30pm & 3–6pm, Sun 10am–noon & 4–6pm; T 0471.836.176, W www.altabadia.org) has details of hotels and rooms in private houses. The chalet-style Monti Pallidi, Strada Col Alt 75 (T 0471.836.081, W www.montipallidi.net; 2 ), has excellentvalue, modern rooms and mini apartments, most with a kitchenette. Corvara is on the summer bus route from Canazei (see opposite; 1hr 20min); buses also leave hourly for Brunico and once daily (12.45pm) for Belluno from outside the tourist office. Some 4.5km north of Corvara is La Villa, a small village with a fairytale sixteenth-century castle. SAN CASSIANO, 4km further east, towards the Paso di Valparola, is home to the luxurious Rosa Alpina (T 0471.849.500, W www .rosalpina.it; 8–9), a cool, luscious and extremely hip spa hotel with a celebrated restaurant. Rates range from €170 to €230 per person per day in summer, up to €600 per room at the height of the ski season.

Bolzano (Bozen) Situated on the junction of the rivers Talvera (Talfer) and Isarco (Eisack), BOLZANO (largely known by its German name, Bozen) is the capital of the autonomous province of Alto Adige. In both winter and summer, the town’s 100,000 population swells with tourists although it manages to maintain a relaxed pace of life and is an

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The Italianization of the Tyrol

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The South Tyrol was Italy’s prize for cooperation with the Allies in World War I. When Mussolini’s fascists came to power in 1923 the region was renamed Alto Adige after the upper reaches of the Adige river. Despite the fact that German speakers outnumbered Italian speakers by about ten to one, a process of Italianization was imposed on the area. Cartographers remade maps, substituting Italian place names for German; people were forced to adopt Italian names; the teaching of German in schools was banned and stonemasons were even brought in to chip away German inscriptions from tombstones. World War II then intervened, and by 1946, Austria and Italy came to an agreement ratiﬁed under the Paris Peace Treaty that Austria would give up its claim to the region on condition that Italy took steps to redress some of the cultural damage perpetrated under Fascism. Successive governments have channelled funds into the area allowing both more independence than ever before and much greater say in local law. Over the last few years, Italy has moved closer into the European Union, and its central and regional governments have had to become more tolerant of ethnic diversity and, increasingly, it is German that is the language of preference in Alto Adige.

| Bolzano (Bozen)

excellent base from which to explore the surrounding mountains. An unmissable pleasure is the local wine: Bolzano is at the head of the Wine Road (Strada del Vino/ Südtiroler Weinstrasse) which runs south to the border with Trentino. Located in a predominantly sunny, sheltered bowl, for centuries Bolzano was a valley market town and way-station whose fortunes in the Middle Ages swayed as the counts of Tyrol and the bishops of Trento competed for power. The town passed to the Habsburgs in the fourteenth century, then at the beginning of the nineteenth century Bavaria took control, opposed by Tyrolese patriot and military leader Andreas Hofer. His battle in 1809 to keep the Tyrol under Austrian rule was only temporarily successful, as in the same year the Austrian emperor ceded the Tyrol to the Napoleonic kingdom of Italy. More changes followed, as Bolzano was handed back to Austria until World War I, whereupon it passed, like the rest of the province, to Italy.

Arrival and information Bolzano’s bus station, centrally placed at Via Perathoner 4, serves most of the small villages and resorts in the province; the train station is a few minutes’ walk south of here through the park down Via Stazione. The small airport (with seasonal charters and a few scheduled ﬂights from Rome and Olbia) is a ten-minute drive from the centre: it’s a €10 taxi ride, or you can take bus #4 or #10 from the airport entrance (a 600m walk from the terminal building) to Piazza Walther. Bus tickets cost €1 and are bought aboard the bus. There is a city tourist office at Piazza Walther 8 (Mon–Fri 9am–7pm, Sat 9.30am–6pm; T 0471.307.000, W www.bolzano-bozen.it and www.suedtirol.info) where you can pick up the Bolzano Museumobil card which gives free unlimited use of public transport (buses, regional trains and certain funivie) in the region, and free access to over 80 museums: a three-day card costs €16 and a seven-day card €22. Children between 6 and 12 pay half-price. It is available at tourist offices throughout the region and at participating museums. 236

Accommodation Located on the historic route south from other parts of Europe, Bolzano has a long tradition of hospitality and offers some special places to stay that are well

worth splashing out on. The best option if the budget is tight is the youth hostel, or one of the pensione a little way out of town, which are listed at W www.bolzano -bozen.it. Moosbauer campsite (T 0471.918.492, W www.moosbauer.com) is a very nice eco-campsite dedicated to helping guests understand all aspects of the Alto Adige: it’s on the main Bolzano–Merano road and costs €15.90 per pitch plus €8.90 per person.

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EATING & DRINKING Cavallino Bianco 2 Fischbanke 3 Forsterbräu Central 4 Hopfen & Co 6 Laurin 10 Lounge Exil Café 8 Nadamas 5 Oca Bianca 1 Stadt Café B Vögele 7 Zur Kaiserkron 9

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BOLZANO PIAZZA IV NOVEMBRE

| Bolzano (Bozen)

Figl Piazza del Grano 9 T 0471.978.412, W www .ﬁgl.net. Though this shuttered hotel in the square looks old from the outside, the rooms have been refurbished and are simple and cheerful. 4 Hotel Greif Piazza Waltherplatz T0471.318.000, Wwww.greif.it. The Black Grifﬁn inn that stood on this spot for 500 years has been transformed into a boutique hotel. Each of the 33 luxurious rooms and suites has been designed by a contemporary artist, with Biedermeier furniture from the original hotel blending surprisingly well with the new hip-luxe style. Guests have use of the park and pool at Grief’s sister hotel, the Parkhotel Laurin. 5

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Hotel Regina Via Renon 1 T 0471.972.195, Wwww.hotelreginabz.it. Great location opposite the train station, and friendly staff. The quietest rooms are at the back: some rooms (lower rates) on the main-road side have views of the hills. 2 Kohlern at the top of the Colle/Kohlern cable car T0471.329.978, W www .kohlern.com. Stylish and beautifully run hotel with indulgent spa and fantastic inﬁnity pool, on a mountainside with bird’s-eye views of Bolzano. 4 Parkhotel Laurin Via Laurin 4 T0471.311.000, Wwww.laurin.it. A rather marvellous, grand hotel built in 1910, set in lush gardens with a small heated swimming pool, children’s play area, bar,

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restaurant (see opposite) and several commissioned works of contemporary sculpture. The rooms are restful and understated, some have terraces, others balconies, one has its own roof terrace. The food in the secluded open-air restaurant is excellent. The bar, with its King Laurin fresco (1911) by Jugendstil artist Bruno Goldschmitt, hosts jazz nights at weekends. Bikes for guest use (with child seats available too). Good deals on the website and at weekends. 4 Pension Röllhof Kampenn, Kohlern T0471.329.958, Wwww.roellhof.com. Set 930m above sea level, this is an appealing, chalet-style pensione a 10min drive up a steep, switchback road from the centre of Bolzano. Open Easter–Nov. 2 Stadt Hotel Città Piazza Waltherplatz 21 T 0471.975.221, W www.hotelcitta.info.

Comfortable four-star hotel right in the centre of the Old Town, with 101 distinctive modern rooms, set above the excellent Stadt Caffè. 4

Hostel Ostello Bolzano/Jugendherberge Bozen Via Renon 23, 200m from the train station T0471.300.865, Wwww.ostello.bz. Cheerful and modern, this hostel is one of a chain in the South Tyrol offering good-quality, low-cost accommodation to young people and families with children. Facilities include internet access, board games, table tennis and the use of laundry facilities. You can get to the hostel by turning right out of the station and you’ll ﬁnd it on the right-hand side of the main road. It costs €23 for a single and €20 for a bed in a 3- or 4-bed room.

The Town Central Bolzano deﬁnitely looks like a part of the German-speaking world. Restaurants serve speck, goulash and knödel, and bakers sell black bread and sachertorte. The centre of town is Piazza Walther, whose pavement cafés, around its statue of the minnesinger (troubadour) Walther von der Vogelweide, are the town’s favoured meeting places. Converted into a cathedral as recently as 1964, the Duomo (Dom) sits on the edge of the square; built in the fourteenth and ﬁfteenth centuries, and restored after being bombed in World War II, it has a striking mosaic roof and elaborately carved spire. The fourteenth-century Franciscan church on Via dei Francescani is also worth seeking out, embellished with a carved wooden altarpiece by Hans Klocher and with elegant, frescoed cloisters from the same period. A couple of streets west of Piazza Walther, on Via Cappuccini, the Chiesa dei Domenicani (Dominican monastery) has frescoes of ﬁfteenth-century courtly life painted on the walls of the decaying cloisters, framed by a growth of stone tracery. The Cappella di San Giovanni, built at the beginning of the fourteenth century, retains frescoes by painters of the Giotto school, including a Triumph of Death underneath a starry vault. Follow the street north to Piazza delle Erbe, site of a daily fruit and vegetable market, from where the oriel windows and eleventhcentury arcades of Via Portici lead off to the right. A visit to the Museo Archeologico (Tues–Sun 10am–6pm; also open Mon in July & Aug; W www.archaeologiemuseum.it; €9), a ten-minute walk west of the centre at Via Museo (Museumstrasse) 43, is a must. Its major exhibit is the Ice Man, the frozen, mummiﬁed body of a man discovered in the ice of the Ötzaler Alps in 1991. At ﬁrst it was thought that the body – nicknamed “Ötzi” – was that of a soldier or a mountaineer, then an investigation revealed that, amazingly, it dated from around 3300 BC. Visitors can view the mummy through a small window in a high-tech refrigeration unit while a video suggests how he may have come to his untimely end. Just as fascinating are the minutiae of the discovery: the Ice Man was around 45 years old but has no tooth decay; he carried a sophisticated ﬁre-lighting kit of different kinds of tinder for starting a ﬁre in extreme conditions; he wore elaborate thermal shoes, a cap and backpack, and, intriguingly, his body bears tattoos at certain neuralgic points that are thought to have relieved the pain of arthritis. Nearby at Via Dante is Bolzano’s brand-new museum of contemporary art Museion (daily 10am–6pm, Thurs closes 10pm; W www.museion.it; €6).

Eating, drinking and nightlife

Restaurants Cavallino Bianco (Weisses Rössel) Via dei Bottai/ Bindergasse 6 T 0471.973.267. This bierkeller features a menu strong on Tyrolean specialities with hearty rustic mains selling at €11–15. Closed Sat eve, Sun, and July. Hopfen & Co Obstplatz 17 T 0471.300.788. On the corner of the fruit market at Piazza delle Erbe. Sit outside in summer and watch the people ﬂow past, or warm up inside in winter in its cosy labyrinth of little rooms. They brew their own beer (hence the strong smell of malt and hops) and serve good wintery fare year round – leek and potato soup (€5.70), goulash (€5.90), canedeli (€7.10), wurst (€6) with mustard, along with several salads in summer. Open daily. Laurin Via Laurin 4 T 0471.311.000. Laidback gourmet restaurant in the garden of Parkhotel Laurin, using prime ingredients from throughout the Italian peninsula, and inspiration from around the world, though the emphasis remains Mediterranean. The menu changes monthly, but you might ﬁnd spaghetti dressed with burrata (Puglian mozzarella ﬁlled with cream; €14) and cherry tomato compote, or lemon tagliolini with Sicilian prawns and sea asparagus (€16). Secondi could include a saddle of veal with trufﬂe

and fried quails’ egg (€27) or Atlantic turbot with lemon, broccoli and bottarga (€29). Desserts range from the traditional (a fabulous apple strudel with caramel and rosemary ice cream for €11) to the exotic (coconut, mango and tapioca mousse served with a passion-fruit jelly and chill-saffron ice cream, €11). Closed Sunday lunch. Oca Bianca Piazza delle Erbe 24 T 0471.300.054. Seasonally changing local delicacies such as horse carpaccio with wild mushrooms, and ravioli with duck-prosciutto. The pasta is all home-made, and there is great ﬁsh and seafood and a good choice of regional Italian wines. Expect to pay around €30 a head. Closed Sun. Vögele Goethestrasse 3 T0471.923.938. Vögele’s outdoor tables under a portico, and big oak tables with candles in the wood-panelled interior make it a popular place to sample local wines and delicacies, along with fresh ﬁsh and dishes from further aﬁeld. A mixed ﬁsh antipasti of scallops, mussels and smoked ﬁsh (€13), makes for a nice light lunch, or go for something heartier such as canederli in broth (€5) or grilled scamorza cheese with stir-fried veg and chilli sauce (€10.50). Closed Sun and June 20–July 10. Zur Kaiserkron Piazza di Mostra/Musterplatz 1 T0471.980.214. Fine dining with reﬁned

| Bolzano (Bozen)

If you’re just after a lunchtime snack, try wurstel and apfel strudel, both available from stalls on Piazza delle Erbe, Piazza del Grano and Via Stazione. Piazza delle Erbe is also full of stalls selling local cheeses, hams, breads, and fabulous fruit and salads, with no shortage of exuberant bars and cafés selling beer and cheap food. As for nightlife, Bolzano is a city with a Northern soul, with heavy drinking and partying far more the norm than in other Italian cities. There are pubs aplenty, with Friday- and Saturday-night crowds spilling out onto the street; for a local aperitif, ask for a Veneziana (Aperol, champagne or prosecco, ice and a slice of lemon). It’s worth noting that despite being a tourist destination, Bolzano practically closes down on Sunday, most supermarkets included.

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Appropriately for a bilingual area (or trilingual if you include the Ladin tongue) the theme “art and language” is central to the works in the permanent collection, with two thousand pieces in the area of art that lies between images and words. A new bridge leads from behind the huge steel-and-glass cube of the museum across the River Talvera (Talfer); a riverside walk upstream brings you to the older Ponte Talvera where Bolzano’s German and Gothic quarter ends and Piazza della Vittoria signals the edge of the new part of town, much of it laid out by Mussolini’s favourite architect, Marcello Piacentini. The epic triumphal arch (1928) on the square is something of a controversial monument, not least due to its inscription: “Here is the border of the Motherland. Set the banners down. From this point on we educated others with language, law and culture.” Until a recent cleanup, it was covered with graffiti and surrounded by low railings, and was even bombed by German-speaking separatists in the late 1980s. The piazza is now the site of a big general market on Saturdays.

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regional and international food in a Baroque, former merchant’s palace, or outside on the quiet elegant piazza. The menu changes constantly, but ﬁxtures include the antipasto of speck and lamb prosciutto (€9), and a succulent tagliata of ox-steak. Other dishes could include an orzotto (like risotto but made with barley) with porcini and wild mushrooms (€12), free-range chicken roasted with potatoes and rosemary (€16) or venison with juniper and black pepper served with celeriac puree and an apple, speck and Savoy-cabbage mousse. Closed Sun.

Cafés and bars

| Bolzano (Bozen)

Fischbanke Via D. Streite 26/A T 0471.971.714. Laidback wine bar on the road running parallel with Via dei Portici, where you sip your Chardonnay at marble counters that once made up the city’s ﬁsh market – hence the name. The enthusiastic owner makes for a good vibe, and you can snack on salads and bruschettas piled high with local produce. Closed Sun. Forsterbräu Central Goethestrasse 6 T0471.977.243. Good beer including the strong Sixtus ale as well as reasonably priced food such

as ravioli stuffed with radicchio and dressed with melted butter and cheese (€8). Outside tables where you can enjoy the evening breeze. Open daily. Lounge Exil Café Piazza della Grano 2/A T0471.971.814. Relaxed young urban hangout in a cosmopolitan industrial-style café. Come for a late breakfast, lunch, an aperitif or just to drink. Closed Sun. Nadamas Piazza Erbe 44 T0471.980.684. Funky, bustling bar-restaurant serving a huge variety of snacks and cocktails accompanied by predominantly Latin American tunes. Food ranges from Thai rice with chicken (€12) to thrice-weekly tapas (Mon, Thurs, Sat). Closed Sun. Stadt Café Piazza Walther. Alluring, grand café in which the owner’s southern origins are evident in the artisanal ﬁzzy drinks such as the Lurisia brand of gazzosa (made with Amalﬁ lemons) and chinotto (made with real chinotto, a rare citrus fruit), along with organic Sicilian honeys, as well as magniﬁcent Austrian-inﬂuenced cakes, such as sachertorte, apple strudel, and a cake made with buckwheat ﬂour and berries). Also a wide selection of breakfast, lunch and dinner dishes, and seats outside on Piazza Walther.

Listings Airport Aeroporto Bolzano Dolomiti T0471.255.255, Wwww.abd-airport.it. Handles Alitalia ﬂights to Rome and Olbia, and seasonal charters. Bike hire Bikes available to rent from a scheme run by the Comune from a stand on Via della Stazione. €1 for up to 6 hours, €5 per day. Bikes have to be returned to stands (throughout the city) by 7.50pm, and you need your passport to register. Car rental Hertz: airport T0471.254.266; Maggiore Via Garibaldi 2 T 0471.971.531. Hospital Ospedale Centrale di Bolzano, Via Lorenz Böhler 5 T0471.908.111. In emergency call T118. Internet Multikulti, Via Doctor Streiter 9. Cheerless but open daily 10am–10pm.

Parking Parcheggio, Piazza Walther; Central Parking, Piazza Stazione; Bolzano Centro, Via Mayr-Nusser. €1.70 per hour. Pharmacies Don Bosco, Don Bosco Platz 6/B T0471.915.239; Paris, Florenzstrasse 56 T0471.917.384; Gires, Telser Durchgang 8 T0471.285.096. Police station Via Marconi 23 T 0471.997.788 or 947.680. Post ofﬁce Piazza Parrocchia/Pfarrplatz 13 T0471.322.211. Mon–Fri 8am–6.30pm, Sat 8am–12 noon. Taxis Radio Taxi T0471.981.111.

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A trip up in any of Bolzano’s three cable cars gives a small taste of the high peaks that surround the city. The ﬁrst (open all year dawn to dusk; every 4min; journey time 12min) ascends from Via Renòn (Rittnerstrasse), a ten-minute walk from the train station, to Soprabolzano (Oberbozen). It’s the longest cable-car journey in Europe, with the largest change in height. Alternatively the San Genesio/Jenesien cable-car ride offers stupendous views of the Catinaccio/Rosengarten massif – the station is at Via Sarentino (9.30am–4.30pm every 30min), 1.5km north of the town centre along the river (bus #12 or #14 on Sun). On the high alpine pastures at the top, you’ll see blond-maned Haﬂinger horses grazing. The third cable-car goes to Colle/Kohlern (7am–7pm every 30min) from the station across the river

Val Sarentino and the TrekkingBus

| Bolzano (Bozen)

To the east of Bolzano, beyond Castle Roncolo is the splendid Val Sarentino. Starting out as a narrow gorge with castles and fortiﬁed farmhouses fused to rocks above a torrential river, it broadens out into an expansive verdant valley of manicured alpine meadows and postcard-perfect wooden chalets encircled by towering mountains, before rising to the bleak heights of the Pennes pass (2211m) from where the road descends to Vipiteno. Weaving through the valley and its mountains are a myriad of trails, well served by rifugi where, as ever, you can eat, or stay. Between late June and the beginning of September the tourist association of the Val Sarentino organizes a weekly programme of minibuses, leaving from the valley’s main settlement, Sarentino, at 9am (coinciding with the regular SAD bus from Bolzano) and returning to Sarentino in time to connect with the 6pm bus back to Bolzano. Each bus goes to one of several trailheads, usually close to a rifugio. The trailheads from which there is the greatest choice of hiking routes are Maso Hollerhof, Maso Obermarcherhof, Rifugio Sarner Skihuette and Passo Pennes. The ﬁrst three are served by the minibus daily, Passo Pennes on Tuesdays and Thursdays. The minibuses have eight seats: if there is no room, you wait 30min until the bus returns to pick you up, or choose a different trailhead. There are also guided walks once a week – currently Wednesday – for which you need to sign up by 6pm the day before, either at the Associazione Turistica Val Sarentino, Via Europa 15 in Sarentino, or by phone (T0471.623.091). Full details can be found on the website Wwww.sarntal. com, or pick up the booklet TrekkingBus from the Associazione or participating rifugi. The valley is well bestowed with places to eat and stay, ranging from the simple to the sophisticated. For good honest mountain hospitality try the cosy Messner Hof (T0471.623.241) at St Valentin, set in a meadow shaded with hazelnut trees overlooked by a twelfth-century frescoed church. There are three basic rooms (€25 per person per night) and a homely restaurant where you can eat carbohydrate-rich local dishes such as canerdeli (breadcrumb and herb dumplings) in broth (€3.50), barley soup (€4) or venison goulash with polenta (€12). If you are in search of more creature comforts, opt for the relaxed, but reﬁned family-run Bad Schoergau (T0471.623048, Wwww .bad-schoergau.com; 5 ), a spa-hotel down in the valley outside Sarentino village, with 25 minimalist rooms. Spa cures include massages with the essence of local dwarf pine, and a decadent honey and milk bath. It is run by three siblings, one of whom, the chef Gregor, is a household name for his regular appearances on the Italian version of Ready Steady Cook. Hotel guests can decide each day whether to eat in the casual bistro, in the guest dining room (with a ﬁxed menu at €29 excluding wine), or in one of two tiny dining rooms where haute cuisine is served (menus from €59–79 excluding wine). The bistro and haute cuisine restaurant are also open to the public.

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south of the train station at Ponte Campiglio. The oldest cable-car ride in the world, it celebrated its centenary in 2008. Bikes whizz at you from all directions in the centre of Bolzano and around 30km of cycle paths circle the city; see p.240 for bike rental. Maps and signs around town point you in the direction of eight different cycle routes. A ﬁve-kilometre pedal away is the thirteenth-century Castello Róncolo (Schloss Runkelstein; Tues–Sun 10am–6pm; W www.roncolo.info; €8); also reachable by free shuttle bus from the Piazza Walther (every 30min Tues–Sun, from 10am–6pm) or bus #12 (Mon–Sun) from the station. Inside the castle are probably the best secular frescoes in Europe showing people hunting and dancing, and other scenes from courtly life. Pier Paolo Pasolini ﬁlmed some of his Decameron (1971) here (see Contexts, p.1021). In the Sala del Torneo, look out for a fresco showing a ﬁshing party: in the background a noble is offering a ﬁsh to a lady – the medieval equivalent of an indecent proposal.

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Just southwest of Bolzano, high above the village of APPIANO (Eppan), a clutch of thirty or so fortresses and castles can be seen from the ruined battlements of Castello Appiano (Schloss Hocheppan; daily except Wed 10.30am–5.30pm; €4; T 0471.936.081, W www.hocheppan.com). In the castle chapel, secular frescoes show women ﬂirting at the altar and one of the earliest representations of the knödel, or dumpling, which still features on many a South Tyrolean menu. One of the most imposing fortresses is Firmiano/Sigmundskron (from ﬁrst Sun in March till third Sun in Nov Tues–Sun 10am–6pm; T 0471.631.264, W www .messner-mountain-museum.it; €8). Perched on an outcrop of porphyry rock it made a strategic base for the Bishop of Trento in the tenth century before falling into ruin in the sixteenth. It was rescued in 2003 by mountaineer Reinhold Messner, who turned it into the ﬂagship of his group of mountain museums. A trail leads up and through the castle towers that contain a vast collection of paintings, sculptures – and objects such as a huge prayer wheel – celebrating the Himalayas, the Alps and the world’s other high places.

The Wine Road

| Bolzano (Bozen)

Wine enthusiasts are well catered for around Bolzano, with a wine road (Strada del Vino) that enables you to indulge in a happy combination of sightseeing and tastings. The 30km route proper begins at Terlano (Terlan) just north of Bolzano, but you can also join it at Appiano (Eppan) and wend your way through sunny vineyards to Salerno (Salurn) halfway between Bolzano and Trento. This is one of the oldest wine-growing areas of all German-speaking regions – some claim that the tradition goes back to the Iron Age – it’s also one of the smallest in Italy. Certainly, the wine industry was well established in Roman times, with the colonists from down south ﬁnding that locally made barrels with metal hoops were much better for transporting wine back to Rome than their clay amphorae. The vines in the region are often strung on wide pergolas, the traditional method of viticulture here, which allows the Ora breeze blowing from Lake Garda to circulate around the grapes, giving a beneﬁcial cooling effect. Others are on hillsides too steep for machinery, so everything still has to be done by hand. The main village on the route is CALDARO (Kaltern), home to many sixteenthcentury buildings in Uberetsch style, combining northern Gothic and southern Renaissance architectural details. Wines from the vineyards around this small village have won numerous awards; one of the best places to taste them is A Punkt (W www.wein.kaltern.com), a wine bar/information point on the main square. Alternatively, three cellars close to the village centre also offer wine tasting – Kellerei Kaltern, Erste Kellerei Kaltern and Neue Kellerei Kaltern (W www .erste-neue.it). Within walking distance, too, on the Wine Road on the way to

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A good time to sample Alto Adige’s wine is in the autumn during the Törggelen season. This roughly coincides with the arrival of the Neuien – the ﬁrst bottles of new, young wine – from about the end of September to the beginning of December. It traditionally marks the passage of the year, celebrating a golden time of clear autumnal weather before winter really sets in. Farmers and innkeepers lay on a spread of speck (smoked ham), a bread called schüttelbrot and roast chestnuts, accompanied by wines from the surrounding hills. As well as the village taverns and enotecas along the wine road (see above) try visiting Loosmannhof (T0471.365.551), Località Signato/Signat.

Lake Caldaro, the producer Manincor (W www.manincor.com) is well worth a visit for its combination of modern architecture and traditional estate buildings, as well as tastings of its ﬁne vintages. Another centre to head for is the village of TERMENO (Tramin), from which the varietal Gewürtztraminer gets its name. Here, you could stop at the enoteca of Elena Walch, a star wine-maker in the region.

| Alpe di Siusi (Seiser Alm)

The grasslands of the Alpe di Siusi (Seiser Alm), to the east of Bolzano, are Europe’s largest alpine plateau, extending over sixty square kilometres above the rest of the valley bordered by Sciliar (Schlern), a ﬂat-topped, sheer mountain which splits off at one end into two peaks. The lush summer pastures 2000m above sea level are superb for mountain biking and hiking, especially now that the area, protected by the Parco Naturale dello Sciliar, is closed to road traffic (except for guests of hotels on the Alpe) between 9am and 5pm. A bus from Bolzano goes to Siusi (Seis) – you can stash mountain bikes in the luggage compartment of the bus – passing FIÈ AM SCILIAR (Völs am Schlern), famous for inventing the curative “haybath”, presumably only beneﬁcial if you don’t suffer from hayfever. A possible detour involves changing buses at Fiè for Schloss Prösels (Presule): the simple castle (guided tours April–Oct Sun–Fri 10am, 11am, 3pm, 4pm & 5pm; €5; T 0471.601.062, W www.schloss-proesels .it) here was once the seat of the lords of Völs – witch hunters, friends of Emperor Maximilian and owners of the salt mines at Hall near Innsbruck. Alternatively, stay on the bus until Siusi, from where you can ascend to COMPACCIO (Compatsch) on the plateau by a connecting bus service or by cable car (mid-May to mid-Sept 8am–7pm; mid-Sept to early Nov 8am–6pm; €9 one way, €13.50 return; bikes are allowed). Compaccio is the starting point for many excellent day-hikes, such as the two-and-a-half-hour trek to Tierser Alpl or a climb of similar length to Rifugio Bolzano al Monte Pez (see below). You can get the views the easier way by taking the chair lift (€7 return) to Restaurant Bullaccia/ Puﬂatsch, enjoying a coffee and buchweizentorte (buckwheat and redcurrant cake) when you get there. A shuttle bus (€1) runs to SALTRIA (Saltner), where a smattering of hotels are more or less the only buildings. Here, horses graze on the tough grass, picking their way between the bogs and streams, and the main evidence of human activity is dairy farming and some logging in the woods.

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Alpe di Siusi (Seiser Alm)

Practicalities There’s a tourist information office (Mon–Fri 8.15am–12.30pm, Sat 8.15am– noon; T 0471.727.904, W www.seiseralm.net) and plenty of accommodation in Compaccio. This hamlet, and Saltria, make peaceful spots to stay, especially when the day-trippers disappear back down to the valley as night draws in, and the teeth of Sasso Lungo (Langkofel) become blunted by cloud. Almgasthof Tirler Saltria T 0471.727.927, W www.tirler.it. One of the better-value hotels in Saltria, with good-sized rooms and friendly service. €70 per person, half-board only. Anemone Seiseralm Compaccio T0471.727.963, W www.anemone-seiseralm.com. A simple hotel

with en-suite rooms and balconies. €60 per person, half-board-only in high season. 2 Rifugio Bolzano al Monte Pez (Schlernhaus) T0471.612.024, Wwww.schlernhaus.it. One of the original alpine huts from the 1880s. Mid-June to early Oct.

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Seiser Alm Urthaler Compaccio T0471.727.919, W www.seiseralm.com. A beautiful hotel constructed in 2002 using sustainable building methods. €162 per person, half-board only.

Tierser Alpl T0471.707.460 or 727.958, Wwww .tierseralpl.com. At 2440m, this cute, red-roofed rifugio has amazing views. Bed only, bed and breakfast and half-board options. June to mid-Oct. 1

Val Gardena (Grödnertal)

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| Northeast of Bolzano

Trails and chair lifts connect the Alpe di Suissi with the Val Gardena (Grödnertal), a valley with plenty of squeaky-clean guesthouses linked by a continuous stream of tourist buses making their way along the Great Dolomites Road to Cortina d’Ampezzo. The main village in the valley, Ortisei (Sankt Ulrich), has for centuries been a big producer of religious sculpture and, more recently, hand-carved wooden toys, with several families each keeping their own particular design going. Three thousand woodcarvers in the valley still make furniture and religious statues, but Ortisei, like the neighbouring villages of Santa Cristina (Sankt Christina) and Selva (Wolkenstein), is now mainly a ski resort, within easy reach of the Sella Ronda, a route of ski-runs and lifts encircling the Sella mountain range that takes a whole day to complete. Buses make the journey back to Bolzano, or you can drive in the other direction towards the Passo di Sella or Passo di Gardena. Not in the Val Gardena itself, but across the Isarco river from Ponte Gardena, the gateway to the valley, is A Pension Briol, at Tre Chiese (Dreikirchen) (T 0471.650.125, W www.briol.it; €82.50 per person, half-board only; April–Oct) above the village of Barbiano (Barbian). It’s a rare example of Bauhaus style in the Alps – nothing much has changed since 1928, when it was designed by artist Hubert Lanzinger. Although there are few mod cons, the simplicity and unspoilt location in ﬂowerﬁlled meadows are unbeatable.

Northeast of Bolzano The route northeast from Bolzano along the Isarco (Eisacktal) valley is one of the main routes between Italy and northern Europe, crossing the border into Austria at the Brenner Pass (1375m). Protestant reformer Martin Luther was one of many travellers to have walked over the Brenner Pass on his epic journey to Rome in 1510. A motorway and high-speed train line to Innsbruck now make light work of the distance, and the ancient towns of Bressanone (Brixen) and Vipiteno (Sterzing) are engaging places on the way to stretch the legs. Nearby is the wild protected area called the Parco Naturale Fánes-Sénnes-Bráies accessible via the Val Pusteria (Pusertal), a side valley off the Isarco. If you are planning to walk any of the long-distance walking trails known as alte vie (literally “high ways”) you will almost certainly visit the Val Pusteria, as most of the trails kick off from the valley. The best access by public transport is by train: the line branches off the main Bolzano–Innsbruck line at Fortezza (Franzenfeste) and serves the sleepy villages of the Val Pusteria, the market town of Brunico (Bruneck) and Dobbiaco (Toblach; from where there are buses to Cortina d’Ampezzo), terminating at San Candido (Innichen).

Bressanone (Brixen)

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BRESSANONE (Brixen) in the Val d’Isarco is well worth a stop for its medieval old town and good selection of places to stay. The town was an independent state for a thousand years, its bishops in a constant state of rivalry with the neighbouring Counts of Tyrol based in Merano. The bishops’ palace, next to the Duomo, is still the focus of the town.

Arrival, information and accommodation

Bressanone’s tourist office (Mon–Fri 8.30am–12.30pm & 2.30–6pm, Sat 9am– 12.30pm; July & Aug 8.30am–6pm, plus Sat 9am–12.30pm; T 0472.836.401, W www.brixen.org), opposite the bus station, has information on trails around the town and further aﬁeld. There are some excellent, inexpensive places to stay in the old town.

The Town

The Duomo (9am–6pm; free) destroyed by ﬁre in the eleventh century and rebuilt in its current Baroque style in the eighteenth, is the most imposing building in the complex: the interesting part lies to the side, in the fantastically ornate cloisters, which were frescoed in the fourteenth century. The cathedral treasury is now kept in the adjacent Museo Diocesano (mid-March to Oct & Dec 1–23, Tues–Sun 10am–5pm; Dec 24–Jan 3 daily 2–5pm; closed Nov and Feb to mid-March; €7; W www.dioezesanmuseum.bz.it). Here you can see vestments belonging to Bressanone’s bishop-princes. Their strong inﬂuence in the region is evident from the present given by Emperor Henry II to Bishop Albuino: a tenth-century Byzantine silk cloak, spread with the stylized eagle that was the bishop’s personal emblem. For more secular pleasures, head for the Novacella Monastery (Kloster Neustift; Mon–Sat: summer guided tours hourly 10am–4pm; winter guided tours at 11am & 3pm; €5.50; T 0472.836.189, W www.kloster-neustift.it), 3km away and reachable by bus (at least hourly), which produces well-regarded wine and sells direct to the public. Ask, also, if you can see the beautiful, frescoed medieval cloisters. Just north of the Duomo lies Via Portici Maggiore, where you’ll ﬁnd a fascinating hotchpotch of shopping arcades and the seventeenth-century Porta de San Michele; this opens onto Via Ponte Aquila, which leads down to the river where there’s a gem of a museum at no. 4/A. The Pharmaziemuseum ( July & Aug Mon–Fri 2–6pm, Sat 11am–4pm; Sept–June Tues & Wed 2–6pm, Sat 11am–4pm; €3.50; T 0472.209.112, W www.pharmazie.it) is located on the second ﬂoor (follow the painted snakes) and boasts a weird and wonderful selection of antique vials and pillboxes, pharmaceutical apparatus, and sumptuously illustrated medical manuals from the late sixteenth century.

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Löwenhof Via Lago di Varna 60 T0472.836.216, Wwww.loewenhof.it. Hotel and campsite complex, with a large outdoor swimming pool, in meadowland 2km north of Bressanone in Varna (Vahrn); several buses travel here on weekdays, fewer at weekends. Campsite closed Nov–March. €9.50 per person, €8 per tent. 3 Mayrhofer Via Tratten 17 T0472.836.327, Wwww .mayrhofer.it. Small, family-run guesthouse with 12 rooms in the old town with a secluded garden. Guests have free entry to the Acquarena pools. 2 Tallero Via Mercato Vecchio 35 T0472.830.577, W www.tallero.it. An excellent, stylish three-star hotel in the old town. Free access to the Acquarena pools. 3

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Elephant Via Rio Bianco 4 T 0472.832.750, W www.hotelelephant.com. One of the longestestablished grand hotels in the Dolomites (with an elephant statue above a pond in its grounds) furnished in elegant Tyrolean style, with a good restaurant (see p.246). 5 Goldene Krone Via Fienili 4 T 0472.835.154, W www.goldenekrone.com. A relatively new, upmarket hotel with an emphasis on light cuisine and well-being. They organize hiking tours, cycling and motorbiking excursions, and have a great spa. Though there is no swimming pool on site, guests have access to state-of-the art facilities at the nearby Acquarena pools. 4

Eating and drinking

The best restaurants in town are Finsterwirt at Vicolo del Duomo 3 (T 0472.835.343; closed Sun eve & Mon), serving excellent local specialities including (in season) buckwheat pasta ﬁlled with lamb and wild mushrooms

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(€13); they also have a good wine list. Otherwise the restaurant and enoteca at the Elephant hotel (T 0472.836.579; closed Thurs mid-March to July, and all Nov & Feb) dishes up expertly prepared regional cuisine. For picnics, try the wonderful array of food shops in the old arcades or the Monday market on Via Brennero; alternatively grab a slice of freshly made pizza from Pizza da Nando on Via Fienili.

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| Northeast of Bolzano

The entrance to the Val Pusteria (Pusertal), a wide valley of maize ﬁelds and hay meadows skirting the northern edge of the Dolomites, lies 4km north of Bressanone. This is a sleepy rural area: in the side valleys dippers dart in and out of the streams and the sawing of timber cuts through the air. Higher up, you’re likely to see marmots – timid creatures similar to guinea pigs – or more likely hear them, as they give out a piercing whistle as a warning before speeding off to their burrows; on the screecovered slopes, chamois betray their presence with a tumbling of stones. The valley is served by bus from Brunico (Bruneck), and by train from Fortezza (Franzensfeste). Many of the long-distance alte vie footpaths start in the Val Pusteria: Alta Via 1 starts from Lago di Bráies (Pragser Wildsee), Alta Via 3 from Villabassa (Niederdorf ), Alta Via 4 from San Cándido (Innichen) and Alta Via 5 from Sesto (Sexten).

Brunico (Bruneck) An inﬂux of people from the surrounding villages arrives daily in the otherwise sleepy market town of BRUNICO (Bruneck), which is also the transport centre of the region. Brunico was the home of the painter and sculptor Michael Pacher (c.1435–98); his Vine Madonna is in the parish church of the village of San Lorenzo, 4km southwest of town. Pacher is probably the most famous Tyrolean painter and woodcarver, straddling German Gothic and the more spare Italian styles; there’s something vaguely unsavoury about this particular Madonna and her pudgy child, gripping a bunch of black grapes, but it’s refreshing to see work in its original setting rather than in a museum. The Brunico tourist office, Rathausplatz 7 ( July & Aug Mon–Fri 9am–7pm, Sat 9.30am–1.30pm & 3–6pm; Sept–June Mon–Fri 9am–12.30pm & 3–6pm, Sat 9.30am–12.30pm; T 0474.555.722, W www.bruneck.com), has details of places to stay. A comfortable option is the Andreas Hofer, Via Campo Tures 1 (T 0474.551.469, W www.andreashofer.it; 4 ). The nearest campsite is Camping Schiesstand, Via Dobbiaco 4 (T 0474.401.326; May–Sept; €5.50 per person, €3 per tent, €3 per car), and there’s a youth hostel in the Val di Tures 4.5km from Brunico called the Holiday House Thalackerhof, Thalackerweg 12, St Georgen (T 0474.550.187, W www.thalackerhof.it; dorm beds €14). Further up the same small valley at CAMPO TURES (Sand In Taufers) is the wonderfully evocative medieval castle, Schloss Taufers (daily 10am–5pm; T 0474.678.053; closed Nov; €5). The dungeons boast a gruesome array of torture instruments, but the most appealing aspect of the castle is its setting: stark grey walls, bristling with towers, stand in contrast to the glistening backdrop of the Zillertal glaciers.

Parco Naturale Fánes-Sénnes-Bráies

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For dramatic mountain vistas and not-too-crowded paths – plus an insight into some of the Ladin legends – head for the Parco Naturale Fánes-Sénnes-Bráies, souteast of Brunico. If you have a limited amount of time to spend in this beautiful protected area, you should aim for the upper slopes of Alpe di Fánes, where you pick up some of the best ridgeway paths. San Vigilio di Marebbe is reachable by bus from Brunico via Longega (Zwischenwasser) and from here A Rifugio Fánes

Situated on the busy main road leading north over the Brenner Pass to Innsbruck is VIPITENO (Sterzing). This close to the Austrian border, it’s hardly surprising that much of Vipiteno is typically Tyrolean, with geranium-ﬁlled balconies and wood-panelled old inns. The porticoed main street, however, Via Città Nuova (Neustadtstrasse), is more reminiscent of places further south, lined with elegant, battlemented palazzi erected in Renaissance times by a locally based Florentine bank. At one end, the Zwölferturm clocktower divides the old town from the new: the roof was rebuilt in 1867 after ﬁre destroyed the ﬁfteenth-century original. The town is especially pretty on summer nights when it’s lit by lanterns and there’s often a local festival, with live music and foodie specialities. The tourist office at Piazza Città 3 (Mon–Sat 8.30am–noon & 2.30–6pm, open Sunday in high season; T 0472.765.325, W www.vipiteno.com) will tell you when these special events take place.

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Vipiteno (Sterzing)

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(T 0474.501.097, W www.rifugiofanes.com; late Dec to mid-April 30 & early June to end of Oct) will pick you up in their jeep (€10 per person) to make the ascent to the refuge which stands at 2000m. This has rooms a cut above the usual refuge accommodation, good food, a great atmosphere and is altogether a very nice place to stay. Footpaths cross the grassy plateaus, passing the rocks of Castel de Fánes, home of Dolasilla, the mythical princess of the Ladini, and an area called the Marmot Parliament. The lakes are fed by underground streams, which you can sometimes hear, burbling deep beneath your feet. Another way to see the park (although you’ll come across many other hikers doing the same) is to walk the section of Alta Via 1 that runs through it, a hike which takes three to four days, with overnight stops at refuges. The trail starts at Lago di Bráies (Pragser Wildsee), a deep-green lake surrounded by pines, 8km off the main road through the Val Pusteria – an extraordinary place (according to legend, the lake is a gateway to an underground kingdom). Several buses go to the lake from Dobbiaco. Also accessible from Brunico by cable car (end June to early Oct; €12 return) is the Plan de Corones, surrounded by jagged peaks. Here, legend has it, Dolasilla was crowned as a warrior princess at the top of the mountain with the raiëta – a crystal that harnessed powerful forces.

Cortina d’Ampezzo and around Dubbed the ”Pearl of the Dolomites”, CORTINA D’AMPEZZO is well and truly part of the mountains of Trentino-Alto Adige, even though it officially belongs to the Veneto region next door. An upmarket ski resort – think an Italian St Moritz – Cortina boasts a gorgeous setting, surrounded by a great circle of mountains, and it’s had a starring role in many ﬁlms, including The Pink Panther and For Your Eyes Only. After hosting the Winter Olympics in 1956, Cortina swiftly became the resort to be seen in and in the 1960s you were as just as likely to spot movie stars such as Brigitte Bardot and Sophia Loren sauntering down the Corso Italia as people in ski boots. Nowadays, the VIPs it attracts tend to be titans of Italian industry – the Agnellis, Benetton, Barilla and the president of Ferrari all frequent the resort – and the population swells from 7000 to around 40,000 during the ski season (roughly Christmas to Easter) although many of the fur-clad crowds packing out the art galleries, designer boutiques and antiques shops are unashamedly here for the pose factor rather than the skiing.

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As you might guess, Cortina is a difficult place to do on a tight budget – taking a sleigh down the mountain after a meal at a glamorous restaurant, or renting a helicopter for off-piste skiing don’t come cheap – but you can do your wallet a favour by avoiding the Christmas–New Year period. There is also a subdued summer hiking season, between July and September when the cable-car system operates. Extreme-sports fans may enjoy a visit to the Pista Olimpica di Bob, built for the Olympics, which now plays host to the Cortina Adrenalin Center (T 0436.860.808, W www.adrenalincenter.it), offering bobsleighing, skiing and night-sledging in winter and rafting, hydrospeeding, kayaking, mountain biking and more in summer. They also run two high-ropes courses for grown-ups, at Cortina and at Cibiana, and a kids’ adventure playground at Cortina.

Arrival and information Express bus services run by Cortina Express (W www.cortinaexpress.it) run to Cortina from Venezia airport and Mestre train station, as well as Bologna bus station during the ski season. There are also several public buses from Dobbiaco (Toblach) each day. The bus station is on Via Marconi, above town. The nearest train station is Calalzo di Cadore, 32km east; a bus timed to meet train arrivals runs up to Cortina. Cortina’s tourist office is at Piazzetta San Francesco 8 (daily 9am–12.30pm & 3.30–6.30pm; T 0436.3231, W www.infodolomiti.it). Several places in town rent out bikes – the cheapest is Cicli Cortina on Via Majon 148 (T 0436.867.215; €6/hr, €18/day). Internet facilities are available at Radiofonica Piller at Via C. Battisti 43 (T 0436.2284).

Accommodation Not surprisingly, staying in Cortina is comparatively expensive and prices climb exponentially during the peak ski season and in August. The tourist office has a list of rooms to rent, and in summer there’s the option of camping at one of several well-equipped sites, all with bar and shop. Try Olympia, 5km north at Fiames (T 0436.5057, W www.campingolympiacortina.it; €10 per tent including car, plus €8 per person), which is open all year round and has a pool; prices are the same at Rocchetta, 2km south of Cortina at Campo di Sopra (T 0436.5063, W www .campingrocchetta.it). Astoria Largo della Poste 11 T0436.2525, Wwww.cortina.dolomiti.org/hotelastoria. A B&B with seven rooms, old-fashioned but comfortable, with an appealing guest lounge. Closed Oct and Nov. 5 Hotel Cristallo Via Menardi 42 T0436.881.111, Wwww.cristallo.it. For the full-on Cortina experience, this palatial hotel is the place, located in the foothills above the town, with tremendous views, and luxury most can only dream of, such as one’s own private butler, or transfer by helicopter. The spa is magniﬁcent and there is a heated indoor pool and a 9-hole golf course. Rooms and public areas are sumptuous and classic, rather than contemporary. Check the website for offers, such as a ﬁve-day spa package for €790 per person, including half-board and a spa treatment. 9 Hotel de La Poste Piazza Roma 14 T 0436.4271, W www.delaposte.it. One of Cortina’s classic hotels. The location – on the square opposite the church – could not be more central, and the rooms

are plush and chintzy. One of the highlights is the bar – barman Antonio di Franco is a legend who has been shaking cocktails at La Poste for 46 years, and has invented cocktails for many of the famous people who stay at the hotel. 8 Menardi Via Majon 110 T 0436.2400, Wwww.hotelmenardi.it. An old country house, this family-run hotel is 1km from town, set in gorgeous – and extensive – grounds. There are rooms in a modern annexe as well as in the original house, and facilities include a jacuzzi, sauna and Turkish baths, and an elegant restaurant. Closed Oct, Nov, and mid-May till last weekend in May. Prices halve in low season. 5 Montana Corso Italia 94 T0436.860.498, W www.cortina-hotel.com. This small alpine hotel dating from 1927 has a great location in the pedestrianized streets right in the heart of Cortina, and rather simple, plain rooms. Great breakfasts with hot chocolate in winter. Bike storage. 5

Eating and drinking Eating choices vary from lively bars offering great snacks to romantic mountain restaurants; several good cafés also serve simple but tasty local dishes. Ai Due Forni at Via C. Battisti 18 is a decent pizza place with takeaway by the slice, while the Croda Caffè at the beginning of Corso Italia is a relaxed (and always busy) place for a sit-down pizza. There is also an excellent Co-op supermarket (closed Sun except in high season) on Corso Italia in the centre of town.

| Cortina d’Ampezzo and around

(home-made dumplings with tomato and Sardinian salami sauce), spaghetti with bottarga (salted tuna roe) or puligioni (ravioli stuffed with ricotta and orange peel, served with butter and basil). Closed Tues in low season. Prosciutteria LP26 Largo delle Poste 26 T0436.862.284. A café by day and wine bar/ restaurant with a good buzz at night. As the name suggests, prosciutto is its speciality – a plate of mixed pig, wild boar and venison hams (€9.50) is a good way to sample them – but there are also tasty pasta dishes, notably tortellini ﬁlled with prosciutto and aged parmesan (€8). Also a nice place for breakfast (good pastries) or an aperitivo. Live music most Saturdays in season. Closed Mon in low season. Rifugio Scoiattoli Cinque Torri T 333.814.6960. Splendid place on the Montagna Cinque Torri right opposite the exit from the ski lift: you go up by the Cinque Torri ski lift (15min drive outside town along the road to Passo Falzarego; bus #30) and in winter you can descend, if you wish, by sledge. The food is a cut above that of most rifugi: specialities include violetti, hand-made pasta coloured with blueberries and served with porcini mushrooms and pine nuts (€9). Open daily mid-June to mid-Sept and mid-Nov to just after Easter.

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Baita Fraina Via Fraina 2 T 0436.3634. Ten minutes from the centre in the hamlet of Fraina to the east of town, this baita has been in the same family for over forty years and serves typical quality Ampezzana fare, backed up by a huge wine list. There are excellent soups all at €9 – barley and spelt, artichoke, leak and potato, lettuce, mushroom or pumpkin, depending on the season – while pasta dishes include ricotta gnocchi with vegetables (€11), and tagliolini with a venison ragù (€11). Also has six simple rooms. Open daily mid-June to Sept & Dec to mid-April. Bar Dolomiti Via Roma 50. A perfect café for people-watching on the main pedestrian highstreet, while you indulge in excellent cornetti alla crema. Open daily. Lago Ghedina 5km west of the village T 0436.860.876. A restaurant in a magical setting next to a lake that reﬂects the Dolomite mountains, surrounded by tall ﬁrs. It is owned by Romans, so the food is a bit different from most other places hereabouts – grilled meats and fresh river trout (€18). Open daily. Leone e Anna 2km out of town at Localita Alverà 112 T 0436.2768. Perfectly executed, though expensive, Sardinian cuisine in a great chalet atmosphere. Try malureddus

Around Cortina Switchback roads and one high mountain pass after another make for some gripping driving into and out of Cortina. One route that presents a challenge to groups of cyclists, motorcyclists and tourist buses alike is the journey between Bolzano and Cortina which has been dubbed the Great Dolomites Road – the views from the high passes are unforgettable. Near Cortina is one of the most famous sights of the whole of the Dolomites: the Tre Cime di Lavaredo, three extraordinary mountain peaks to the northeast of the city that are the subject of many a holiday snap. Buses from the city travel there in summer, and there’s also a service to the small lake at Misurina, another popular beauty spot. It’s not all about the great outdoors, however: fans of the painter Titian may want to head south by bus from Cortina towards Belluno in the Veneto to his home town of PIEVE DI CADORE, with many paintings attributed to him and his family in the local church. The one most likely to be authentic is in the third chapel on the left; check out too the altarpiece of The Last Supper, by his cousin Cesare. Titian’s birthplace is represented by a stone and wood house on

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Via Arsenale (late June to mid-Sept Tues–Sun 10am–12.30pm & 3–7pm; rest of year call to book T 0435.32.262; €2). Although it has been equipped with furniture and a ﬁreplace from the ﬁfteenth century, the present structure dates from the 1800s. Among the handful of cafés and bars, Caffè Tiziano (closed Mon), in the vaults of the old Palazzo della Magniﬁca Comunità Cadorina is a popular meeting point and offers snacks, great cocktails and pool on full-size tables. The tourist office is at Piazza Municipio 17 (daily 9am–12.30pm & 3.30–6.30pm; T 0435.31.644). TRE NTI NO-ALTO ADI GE

Alleghe and Monte Civetta

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Without your own vehicle, it can be difficult to reach the most interesting mountains in these parts. One place you can get to by bus (from Belluno) is the small village of ALLEGHE. The lake here was created after a huge rock avalanche in the eighteenth century – a common occurrence in the area. Now a peaceful summer and winter resort, Alleghe borders the northeastern edge of the lake, its aquamarine waters reﬂecting the pine forests around. Towering above is Monte Civetta (or Owl Mountain), essentially Alleghe’s main attraction, and if you’re lucky enough to be at Lago Coldai next to Rifugio Coldai (T 0437.789.160; late June to mid-Sept) on a clear evening, you get the most wonderful views of the great rock wall of Civetta glowing red in the sunset. You can walk up to the refuge from the valley (4hr & 1156m of ascent), or take the cable car from Alleghe to Piani di Pezze, and the chair lift from there to Col dei Baldi ( June 21–Sept 14 daily 8.30am–5.30pm; €10 return; T 0437.523.544). Hardened hikers may want to stay overnight at the refuge and start a big walk along Alta Via 1 next day. The trail crosses small snowﬁelds, passing windows in the rock that offer dizzying glimpses of the valley and the Dolomite groups. A couple of hours from Coldai, Rifugio Tissi is perched improbably on an incline, on a vast slab of rock, and is cheerfully shambolic, with accommodation available (T 0437.721.644; mid-June to mid-Sept). From here you can continue on Alta Via 1, past Rifugio Vazzoler down to Listolade in the valley (5hr; hourly buses to Alleghe), or head straight down the steep trail 563 for three hours to Masare (a 20min walk from Alleghe), dipping your feet in a waterfall on the way. For refuelling in Alleghe, Enoteca Alleghe on Piazza J.F. Kennedy (T 0437.523.410; closed Tues) is a great wine-bar with over 350 Italian wines to choose from as well as reasonably priced local cheeses, hams and salamis. Don’t miss, too, the cakes and strudel at the pasticceria on the same square.

Merano and around

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MERANO (Meran), an hour north by train from Bolzano, lies in a beautiful, wide part of the Adige (Etsch) valley. Neat apple orchards and vineyards cover almost every square inch of the lower slopes and valley ﬂoor, but when you look upwards the scale changes due to the two great mountain ranges – the Ortles (Ortler) and the Giogáia di Tessa (Texelgruppe) encircling the town. Closer geographically and in looks to the Swiss and Austrian Alps than the Dolomites, the grandeur of the landscape turns up a notch here – and a simple event like a summer storm becomes a drama, with the whole valley reverberating to the rumble of thunder. A civilized spa town, comfortably weaving its centuries-old traditions with the contemporary pleasures of shopping and a stylish new spa, Merano has a mild climate that attracted Central Europeans at the beginning of the last century after Empress Elizabeth of Austria – known as Sissi – chose the town for her winter cure. A resort of ﬁn-de-siècle hotels, neat gardens and promenades evolved.

Arrival, information and accommodation Buses arrive and depart directly outside Merano’s train station on Piazza Stazione, ten minutes’ walk from the centre of town. The tourist office is at Corso Libertà 45 ( Jan & Feb Mon–Fri 9am–12.30pm & 2–6.30pm, Sat 9.30am–12.30pm; late March–Sept Mon–Fri 9am–6pm, Sat 9am–4pm, Sun 10am–12.30pm; Oct– Dec Mon–Fri 9am–12.30pm & 2–5pm, Sat 10am–5pm, Sun 10.30am–4pm; T 0473.272.000, W www.meran.eu). Hotels

right on the river; most of the rooms have balconies. 4

Hostel

The Town Merano’s old nucleus is Via dei Portici, running west from the Gothic Duomo and ﬁfteenth-century castle and crisscrossed by shopping streets. On the river’s south bank is Merano’s impressive new spa complex Therme Meran (daily 9am–10pm; €17 for a day-ticket for the inside and outdoor pools, €23 for pools plus sauna; supplement of €2 or €3 at weekends; W www.thermemeran.it) with no less than thirteen indoor pools and a “snow room”, all inside a huge steeland-glass cube designed by architect Matteo Thun. There is a wide range of treatments, and you can leave kids aged between 2 and 10 in the Spazio Bimbi for supervised activities (Mon–Sat 9am–noon & 3–6pm; free). Outside there is a bistro (see p.252). Within the Trauttmansdorff botanical gardens at Via Valentino 51 (daily: mid-March to mid-Nov 9am–6pm; mid-May to mid-Sept 9am–9pm; €10.20, €5 after 6pm; W www.trauttmansdorff.it) is the fascinating and fun Touriseum (Museum of Tourism; same hours as gardens). This delves into the relationship between political events, social change and the rise of tourism in the South Tyrol over the past couple of centuries through some really entertaining and imaginative displays. In summer, bands perform in the gardens and twice-weekly classical concerts are held in other venues around town. If you’re here on Easter Monday, head for the hippodrome to the south of the centre, where Tyrolean musicians astride huge blond-maned Haﬂinger horses parade around the stadium. The grape fest in the third week of October is another lively event.

| Cortina d’Ampezzo and around

Ostello della Gioventù Carduccistrasse 77 T0473.201.475, W www.jugendherberge.it. Merano’s youth hostel is a 10min walk from the station. There are some en-suite rooms, a laundry and TV room, a workshop for bicycle repairs, skis and bikes to rent and baby-changing facilities. Dorm beds are €20 per night, with a €2 surcharge for staying just one night.

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Castel Fragsburg T 0473.244.071, Wwww.fragsburg.com. This former hunting lodge perched on a mountainside above the city has dramatically styled rooms, excellent food, a spa and tremendous views – especially from the outdoor pool. Prices for the standard doubles are surprisingly low. 5 Tyrol Via XXX Aprile 8 T 0473.449.719. Quiet hotel with a garden, close to the train station. 2 Westend Speckbacherstrasse 9 T 0473.447.654, W www.westend.it. Charming hotel set in gardens

Eating and drinking The best place to eat in town is the expensive Sissi, at Galileistrasse 44 (T 0473.231.062), where renowned Italian chef Andrea Fenoglio puts a sophisticated twist on traditional Alpine and Mediterranean dishes. This is a place to splash out, and the best way to experience what Fenoglio has to offer is to opt for the “8 piatti” menu (€90) – eight courses, selected by the chef daily to capitalize on the best of the day’s ingredients.

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| Cortina d’Ampezzo and around 252

For simpler fare in a contemporary setting, the Bistro (summer daily 9am–11pm, closes at 7pm in winter; hot food from noon–2.30pm year round, and also from 7pm–10pm in summer) belonging to the spa, is a pleasant place to sit and watch life pass by, and people cavorting in the outdoor pools below, while eating some excellent dishes: tagliatelle scented with dwarf pine dressed with pumpkin and speck (€9) or a simple (and huge) salad of spanking fresh mixed leaves with local prosciutto and melon (€11). More traditional, but good nonetheless, is Weinstube Haisrainer, Via dei Portici 100 (T 0473.237944; closed Sun), serving gutsy Italian and Tyrolean dishes, such as smoked roast pork (€15). For information on group hikes visit the Club Alpino Italiano office, Via Carlo Wolff 15 (Mon–Thurs 10am–noon, Thurs also 7–8.30pm; T 0473.448.944, W www.caimerano.it), or Merano’s Alpine association, the Alpenverein Südtirol, at Galileistrasse 45 (hours variable; T 0473.237.134, W www.alpenverein.it).

Around Merano On the northern outskirts of Merano is the twelfth-century Castel Tirolo (mid-March to end Nov Tues–Sun 10am–5pm, Aug until 6pm; T 0473.220.221, W www.schlosstirol.it; €6, guide an extra €2). Such was the infuence of its owners, the Counts of Tirol, that the whole Tyrol region takes its name from here. The castle itself is worth visiting for its museum on daily life in the Middle Ages. Below it is Brunnenburg, a neo-Gothic pile that’s all ﬁshtail battlements and conical towers, where American poet Ezra Pound spent the last years of his life. San Leonardo (Sankt Leonhard), some 20km beyond (but more easily reached from Bressanone), is the birthplace of Andreas Hofer. Originally an innkeeper, wine merchant and cattle dealer, Hofer fought for the Tyrol’s return to Austria after it had been ceded to Bavaria in 1805, becoming a hero of the people after successful uprisings against occupying Bavarian and Napoleonic troops. However, larger political forces overtook him and Hofer was arrested in 1810 and executed under Napoleon’s orders in Mantua. There’s a small Hofer museum (March–Nov Tues– Sun 10am–6pm; W www.museum.passeier.it; €7) at Passeierstr. 72 in his birthplace. Val d’Ultimo (Ultental)

A traditional place of hiding in an area renowned for mountain warfare, the Val d’Ultimo (Ultental) stayed relatively isolated and closed to outsiders until the last century. The road into the valley begins its ascent just south of Merano at LANA. A ﬁfteen-minute cable-car ride from Lana brings you to the unique spa resort of A Vigilius (T 0473.556.600, W www.vigilius.it; 8), a contemporary low-slung grid of wood and glass wrapped around the mountainside of Monte San Vigilio (Vigiljoch) which may treat you to the surreal sight of hikers tramping past guests lolling in the steam bath or taking the air in their bathrobes. Vigilius is not simply the quintessential hip hotel, but has won awards for energy efficiency and eco-innovations including an innovative woodchip-fuelled heating system that provides an income for local foresters. Rooms are minimalist, ﬁttings and fabrics toning with the larch-wood ﬂoors and walls, leaving the encircling mountains to provide the drama. There’s the usual sauna, Turkish bath and pool, along with a myriad trendy cures, including an apple and polenta peel, and apple and rosehip oil massage. Hiking is organized in summer, along with sports such as archery; in winter there is skiing, snowshoe hiking, tobogganing and ice-skating on a nearby lake. It has two restaurants, both open to non-residents – though understandably most opt for the simpler Stube Ida where you can eat reﬁned renderings of local dishes such as carne salada with rocket and parmesan (€14) and schnitzel with potatoes and cranberries (€18).

Buses from Merano and Lana travel deep into the Val d’Ultimo, ﬂanked by lush green pastures and ancient larches, terminating at the village of SANTA GERTRUDE (Sankt Gertraud), from where trails (3hr) lead over rock-strewn moorland to Rifugio Canziani aka Höchster Hütte (T 0473.798.120; mid-June to mid-Oct), surrounded by the glaciers and peaks of Gioveretto (Zufrittspitze). If you’re feeling less energetic, the valley is still a good place for some shorter walks, using the village as base. Utnerhof, Hauptstrasse 114 (T 0473.798.117; 2 –3 ), is one of a handful of hotels in the village.

Arrival and information The key point of access to the park is the Val Venosta (Vinschgau), served by trains from Merano, with bus services into the side valleys of Martello, Trafoi and Solda. It also provides the main route for traffic from the Adige valley to Switzerland. A private train service runs every thirty minutes between Merano and Málles (Mals) and gives access to several villages along the valley, connecting with local bus services. (Note, if you’re cycling, that you can take push bikes on the train for free.) For general information on the area visit W www.parks.it/parco .nazionale.stelvio or www.valvenosta-vinschgau.it. The most useful tourist offices are in Silandro (see p.255) and Solda (see p.255).

| Parco Nazionale dello Stelvio

The Parco Nazionale dello Stelvio (or the Stilfser National Park) is one of Italy’s major national parks: it extends north to the Swiss Engadine and southwest into Lombardy and covers the whole Ortles (Ortler) mountain range. The park is topped by one of Europe’s largest glaciers (the Ghiacciaio dei Forni) and crossed by the Passo dello Stelvio (2758m), which misses being the highest pass in the Alps by just twelve metres. Ski tourism has made its mark, and the park is as crisscrossed by lifts as anywhere in the Alps, but it’s still a remarkable place. People come here for the high trails and glacier skiing in summer, or for the chance of seeing wildlife such as the red and roe deer, elk, chamois, golden eagle and ibex.

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Parco Nazionale dello Stelvio

Accommodation As well as the smattering of mountain refuges offering accommodation, Trafoi and Solda make good bases to stay – both have a large range of accommodation. Trafoi

Solda

Hotel Bella Vista T 0473.611.716, W www.bella-vista.it. On the road up to the Stelvio Pass, this stylish hotel is the home of Olympic gold-medal-winning skiier Gustav Thöni. The hotel has large, Scandinavianstyle rooms, most with balconies, as well as a sauna and Turkish bath. Half-board €67 in high season. 3 Tuckett T 0473.611.722, Wwww.gasthof-tuckett .com. This chalet-style pensione on the main road in the tiny settlement of Trafoi is a simpler alternative to the Bella Vista, with reasonably priced rooms with balconies. 2

Garni des Alpes T 0473.613.062, Wwww.garnidesalpes.com. A 10min walk away from the centre, in the upper part of town, this guesthouse offers modern rooms and the services of a resident climbing/skiing guide. 2 Ortlerhof T0473.613.052, Wwww.ortlerhof-sulden .com. The ﬁrst hotel on the way into Solda; B&B accommodation in an en-suite room with balcony; May–Sept; minimum stay three days. 1 Paulmichl T0473.613.064, W www.pension paulmichl.com. A simple hotel, right next to the tourist ofﬁce in Solda’s lower town, which is best for restaurants and services. 2

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| Parco Nazionale dello Stelvio

As the main approach to the Stelvio park, the Val Venosta is often busy with traffic but maintains a rural feel. Every weekend during July and August, one or other of the villages holds a summer street festival, with live music, beer gardens and fresh produce. One of the best is the Marmor e Marillen (Marble and Apricots) in early August in the tiny village of Laas which offers the chance to sample marillenknödel – sweet potato dumplings ﬁlled with whole apricots and rolled in sugar and breadcrumbs. Other places of note along the main valley road are the village of Forest (Forst) dominated by the Forst brewery (W www.forst.it), whose delicious beers you can sample throughout the region. Also worth seeking out is the Castello Juval (Palm Sunday to June & Sept to ﬁrst Sun in Nov Thurs–Tues 10am–4pm; W www .messner-mountain-museum.it; €7) at Kastellbell. This is mountaineer Reinhold Messner’s summer residence and has a very reasonable osteria (T 0473.668.238) serving local organic food and wines. At the Málles (Mals) end of the valley the castle at Coira, more frequently known by its German name of Churburg, was owned by the lords of Matsch at the beginning of the thirteenth century. Back then, it was just one castle in a whole chain stretching from Bavaria to just north of Milan and was battled over by various knights – whose suits of armour, some weighing nearly 25kg, can be seen in the armoury (mid-March to Oct Tues–Sun 10am–noon & 2–4.30pm; T 0473.615.241, W www.churburg.com; €8). The ancient walled village of GLORENZA (Glurns) is just 2.5km away. Although it has a population of less than nine hundred, Glorenza still enjoys special privileges conferred in 1294 when it was a salt-trading centre. The tiny town is an architectural gem with porticoes and merchants’ houses dating back to the sixteenth century, and well-preserved town walls. Hotel Gasthof Grüner Baum at Piazza Città/Stadtplatz 7 (T 0473.831.206, W www.gasthofgruenerbaum .it; 3 ) is the place here for an overnight stop, a traditional inn that’s been sensitively reinvented in minimalist style.

The side valleys Three main side valleys thread their way from the Val Venosta into the foothills of the Ortles range: the Val Martello (Martelltal), the Val di Trafoi (Trafoiertal) and the Val di Solda (Suldental).

Crossing the Passo dello Stelvio

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The journey across the Ortles mountains over the Passo dello Stelvio (Stelvio Pass) to Bormio in Lombardy makes for a white-knuckle drive. This amazingly convoluted route consists of 48 switchbacks and turns but is well worth it for both the thrill and the view. Motorbikers love it and cyclists view the climb as the ultimate challenge – it’s often an important stage of the Girò d’Italia. Beware that this is one of the last Alpine passes to open to trafﬁc each year, and it’s not unknown for the road to stay closed until July if there’s been a late fall of snow. If you’re travelling by public transport you can access the pass on one of the two afternoon buses from Málles. The end point of the route, Bormio, is a rather snooty resort with a sprawl of hotels in its cobblestoned core. There’s a visitor centre at Via Roma 131/B (Mon–Sat 9am–12.30pm & 3–6pm, July & Aug daily 9am—7pm; T0342.903.300, Wwww.bormio .info) which can advise on accommodation as well as nature trails in the southern reaches of the Stelvio national park.

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| Parco Nazionale dello Stelvio

If your ultimate destination is the Stelvio national park, a good option is to get off the Merano–Málles train at SILANDRO (Schlanders) and head for the tourist office at Kapuzinerstrasse 10 (Mon–Fri 8am–noon & 1–5pm, Sat 9am–12.30pm; T 0473.737.000, W www.south-tirol.com), which will provide information on rifugi and trails. A bus runs from Silandro into the beautiful VAL MARTELLO (Martelltal), passing silver birch woods, the ruins of Castel Montani and an aviary for falcons at Morter along the way. At the head of the valley, Paradiso del Cevedale (2088m) is one of the busiest bases for climbers and cross-country skiers, lying close to Monte Cevedale (Zufall Spitze; 3757m); other trails lead across high passes to Val d’Ultimo and Val di Solda. TRAFOI is a beautifully situated hamlet perched at 1543m by the side of the road towards the beginning of the main climb up to the Stelvio Pass (for accommodation here, see p.253). The uninterrupted views of the mighty Ortles are stupendous, and the slopes remarkably unsullied by tourism. A cable car makes the ascent from Trafoi to Rifugio Forcola (no accommodation) at 2250m, from where a ﬁne path (4hr) continues up and round to the pass which until 1918 marked the frontier between Italy, Switzerland and Austria. On your way, you pass the Pizzo Garibaldi (Dreisprachenspitze), a spur of rock that’s the symbolic meeting place for the three main languages of the area. Just short of Trafoi, a minor road leads into an isolated tributary valley at the head of which, 8km west, lies SOLDA (Sulden). The hamlet has been a major climbing and skiing centre since the nineteenth century; for accommodation here, see p.253. There’s a helpful tourist office at Via Principale 72 (Mon–Fri 8am– noon & 3–6pm, Sat 9am–noon; Aug also Sat 3–6pm; T 0473.737.060, W www .ortlergebiet.it). If you have time, it’s worth checking out the tiny, eccentric museum (daily 9am–7pm; free) celebrating Solda’s existence as a mountain resort as well as the MMM Ortles ice museum (2nd Sun in Dec to April & 2nd Sun in June to 2nd Sun in Oct Wed–Mon 2pm–6pm; T 0473.613.266, W www.messner -mountain-museum.it; €5), part of Reinhold Messner’s network of mountain museums. As well as exhibits on the nearby glaciers of the Ortles, the highlight is the jagged skylight giving the impression you’re at the bottom of a crevasse, looking up. You can warm up afterwards by eating yak in various guises – yak goulash for example – at Messner’s restaurant, Yak e Yeti, at Suldenstrasse 55 (T 0473.613.266; closed Tues; around €30 for a three-course meal). It’s one of the most celebrated in the Val Venosta, with the yaks resident below. Although Solda attracts fairly serious climbers and skiers, you don’t have to be experienced to attempt some of the trails. There are easy paths (2hr) up to RifugioAlbergo Città di Milano (Schaubach Hütte; T 0473.613.002; late June to early Oct & Dec–May) at 2581m, or more difficult trails (3.5hr) to Rifugio Payer (T 0473.613.010; mid-June to Sept) at 3020m, a fantastic viewpoint and base for the ascent of Ortles (Ortler). At 3905m high, it was the tallest mountain of the old Austrian empire before the border changed, and was once marked on local maps as “The End of the World”.

255

Travel details For online train timetables, go to Wwww.ferrovie dellostato.it. Trentino transport options, visit Wwww.ttesercizio.it. Transport in Alto Adige, visit W www.sad.it. Buses through the Dolomites around Cortina, visit W www.dolomitibus.it.

TRE NTI NO-ALTO ADI GE

Trains

| Travel details

Bolzano to: Bressanone (every 30min; 30min); Merano (every 30min; 40min); Trento (every 30min; 30–50min); Vipiteno (hourly; 1hr). Brunico to: Dobbiaco (every 30min; 30min). Fortezza to: Brunico (every 30min; 40min) then calling at Monguelfo (Welsberg), Villabassa (Niederdorf) and Dobbiaco (Toblach), terminating at San Candido (Innichen; 1hr 20min). Merano to: Silandro (at least hourly; 50min). Trento to: Bologna (10 daily; 2hr–3hr); Bolzano (every 30min; 30–50min); Bressanone (13 daily; 1hr 10min–2hr); Malé (Trento-Malé line; at least hourly; 1hr 30min); Rovereto (every 20min; 13min); Venice (18 daily; 2hr 30min–3hr); Verona (at least hourly; 1hr 20min).

Buses Note that the frequencies given here are for high season in summer, and that buses are signiﬁcantly less frequent on Sat, and rare on Sun and public hols. Bolzano to: Caldaro (at least 2 per hour; 50min); Fiè (every 30min; 30min); Predazzo (every 2 hr; 1hr 45min); Ortisei (every 20min; 1hr); Vigo di Fassa (7 daily; 1hr 10min). Bressanone to: Brunico (at least 2 per hour; 1hr); Campo Tures (every 20min; 1hr 30min); Siusi

256

(hourly; 1hr); Ortisei (at least 2 per hour; 1hr); San Leonardo (3 daily; 30min). Brunico to: Bressanone (at least 2 per hour; 1hr); Campo Tures (every 30min; 30min); Corvara (hourly; 1hr); Dobbiaco (at least 2 per hour; 42min); Plan de Corones cable-car terminal (at least 3 per hour; 14min); Longega; (hourly; 20min). Cortina d’Ampezzo to: Belluno (12 daily; 2hr); Calalzo (17 daily; 1hr); Dobbiaco (every 2 hr; 45min); Passo Falzarego (8 daily; 35min); Pieve di Cadore (15 daily; 52min). Corvara to: Brunico (hourly; 1hr); Longega (hourly; 40min). Dobbiaco to: Brunico (at least 2 per hour; 42min); Cortina d’Ampezzo (every 2 hr; 45min); Lago Bráies (8 daily; 28min); Villabassa (every 20min; 5min). Fiera di Primiero to: Passo di Cereda (5 daily; 20min); Predazzo (5 daily; 90min). Merano to: Katharinaberg (9 daily, may need to change at Naturns; 1hr); Lana (approx every 15min; 17min); Moso (at least hourly; 1hr 13min); Silandro (at least 2 per hour; 1hr). San Martino di Castrozza to: Fiera di Primiero (10 daily; 30min); Imer (8 daily; 40min). Siusi to: Ortisei (at least 2 hourly; 30min). Trento to: Canazei (4 daily; 2hr 45min); Madonna di Campiglio (4 daily, more in winter; 2hr 8min); Molveno (4 daily, train and bus; change at Mezzolombardo; 1hr 30min); Predazzo (7 daily; 1hr 51min); San Martino di Castrozza (4 daily, bus and train connection; 3hr); Tione (6 daily; 1hr 10min); Vigo di Fassa (4 daily; 2hr 20min).

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V E NI C E AND THE V E NE TO

Venice and the Veneto

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CHAPTER 5

✱ V E NI C E AND THE V E NE TO

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| Highlights

✱

✱

Highlights

Basilica di San Marco, Venice San Marco is an amazing sight with its 4000 square metres of golden mosaics – all you have to work out is how to beat the queues. See p.275 The Accademia, Venice Masterpieces by Titian, Bellini, Veronese and Tintoretto feature strongly in the world’s best collection of Venetian painting. See p.281 Punta della Dogana, Venice If you have even the slightest interest in contemporary art, make time for the Dogana – the best collection of its kind in Europe. See p.283 Carnevale Venice’s carnival is the most famous, but if you

want a less touristic event, head for Verona, where the whole town turns out for a procession of more than eighty ﬂoats. See p.307

✱

Giotto frescoes, Padua Giotto’s frescoes in the Cappella degli Scrovegni constitute one of the pivotal works in the history of European art. See p.314

✱

Vicenza The well-heeled city of Vicenza is renowned above all for the buildings of Palladio, perhaps the most inﬂuential architect ever. See p.319

✱

Verona Cradled in a tight curve of the Adige river, Verona is a fabulously handsome city. See p.324

258

Piazza delle Erbe, Verona

5

T

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he ﬁrst-time visitor to Venice arrives full of expectations, most of which turn out to be well founded. All the photographs you’ve seen of the Palazzo Ducale, of the Basilica di San Marco, of the palaces along the Canal Grande – they’ve simply been recording the extraordinary truth. All the bad things you’ve heard about the city turn out to be right as well. Economically and socially ossiﬁed, it is losing hundreds of residents by the year and plays virtually no part in the life of modern Italy. It’s deluged with tourists and occasionally things get so bad that entry into the city is barred to those who haven’t already booked a room. And it’s expensive – the price of a good meal almost anywhere else in Italy will get you a lousy one in Venice, and its hoteliers make the most of a situation where demand will always far outstrip supply. As soon as you begin to explore Venice, though, every day will bring its surprises, for this is an urban landscape so rich that you can’t walk for a minute without coming across something that’s worth a stop. And although it’s true that the city can be unbearably crowded, things aren’t so bad beyond the magnetic ﬁeld of San Marco and the kitsch-sellers of the vicinity, and in the off-season (November to Christmas and January to Easter, excluding Carnevale) it’s possible to have parts of the centre virtually to yourself. As for keeping your costs down, Venice has plenty of markets in addition to the celebrated Rialto, there are some good-value eating places, and you can, with planning, ﬁnd a bed without spending a fortune. Tourism is far from being the only strand to the economy of the Veneto, the surrounding region of which Venice is capital. The rich, ﬂat land around the Po supports some of Italy’s most productive farms and vineyards, and industrial development around the main towns rivals even the better-known areas around Milan, making the region one of the richest in Europe. At Marghera, just over the lagoon from Venice, the Veneto has the largest industrial complex in the country, albeit one that is now in decline. But tourism is extremely important, with Padua and Verona the main attractions after Venice, thanks to their masterpieces by Giotto, Donatello and Mantegna and a profusion of great buildings. None of the other towns of the Veneto can match the cultural wealth of these two, but there are nonetheless plenty of places that justify a detour – the Palladian city of Vicenza, for instance, the fortiﬁed settlements of Castelfranco and Cittadella, and the idyllic upland town of Ásolo.

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Venice and the Veneto

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| Venice (Venezia)

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For outdoor types, the interesting terrain lies in the northern part of the Veneto, where the wooded slopes of the foothills – excellent for walking – soon give way to the savage precipices of the eastern Dolomites. Because most of the high peaks of the Dolomites lie within Trentino-Alto Adige, and the mountains of the eastern Dolomites are most easily explored as part of a tour of the range as a whole, the area of the Veneto north of Belluno is covered in the “Trentino-Alto Adige” chapter. Similarly, the eastern shore of Lake Garda is covered as part of the Lakes region in the “Lombardy and the Lakes” chapter.

Venice (Venezia) 260

The monuments that draw the largest crowds in Venice are the Basilica di San Marco – the mausoleum of the city’s patron saint – and the Palazzo Ducale – the home of the doge and all the governing councils. Certainly these are the most dramatic structures in the city: the ﬁrst a mosaic-clad emblem of Venice’s Byzantine origins, the second perhaps the ﬁnest of all secular Gothic buildings. But every parish rewards exploration, and a roll-call of the churches worth visiting would feature over ﬁfty names, and a list of the important paintings and sculptures they contain would

Some history

| Venice (Venezia)

Small groups of ﬁshermen and hunters were living on the mudbanks of the Venetian lagoon at the start of the Christian era, but the ﬁrst mass migration was provoked by the arrival in the Veneto of Attila the Hun’s hordes in 453, and the rate of settlement accelerated when the Lombards swept into northern Italy in 568. The loose confederation of island communes that developed owed political allegiance to Byzantium. But with the steep increase in the population of the islands the ties with the empire grew weaker, and in 726 the settlers chose their own leader of the provincial government – the ﬁrst doge. The control of Byzantium soon became no more than nominal, and the inhabitants of the lagoon signalled their independence through one great symbolic act

V E NI C E AND THE V E NE TO

be twice as long. Two of the distinctively Venetian institutions known as the scuole retain some of the outstanding examples of Italian Renaissance art – the Scuola di San Rocco, with its sequence of pictures by Tintoretto, and the Scuola di San Giorgio degli Schiavoni, decorated with a gorgeous sequence by Carpaccio. Although many of the city’s treasures remain in the buildings for which they were created, a sizeable number have been removed to Venice’s museums. The one that should not be missed is the Accademia, an assembly of Venetian painting that consists of virtually nothing but masterpieces; other prominent collections include the museum of eighteenth-century art in the Ca’ Rezzonico, the Museo Correr (the civic museum of Venice), and the city’s superb new showcase for contemporary art, the Punta della Dogana. Venice’s cultural heritage is a source of endless fascination, but you should also allow time just to wander – the anonymous parts of the city reveal as much of the city’s essence as the highlighted attractions. And equally indispensable for a full understanding of Venice’s way of life and development are expeditions to the outer islands of the lagoon.

Regional food and wine Venice specializes in ﬁsh and seafood, together with exotic ingredients like pomegranates, pine nuts and raisins, harking back to its days as a port and merchant city. The surrounding Veneto vies with Lombardy for the risotto-making crown – the end product tending to be more liquid than those to the west, usually with a seafood base although peas (bisi in the local dialect) are also common, as are other seasonal vegetables including spinach, asparagus and pumpkin. The red salad-leaf radicchio also has its home in the Veneto, as does the renowned Italian dessert, tiramisù. Polenta is eaten, too, while pork in all forms features strongly, together with heavy soups of beans, rice and root vegetables. Pastries and sweets are also an area of Venetian expertise. Look out for the thin oval biscuits called baicoli, the ring-shaped cinnamon-ﬂavoured bussolai (a speciality of the Venetian island of Burano) and mandorlato, a cross between nougat and toffee, made with almonds. The Veneto has been very successful at developing wines with French and German grape varieties, notably Merlot, Cabernet, Pinot Bianco, Pinot Grigio, Müller-Thurgau, Riesling, Chardonnay and Gewürztraminer. The quintessentially Italian Bardolino, Valpolicella and Soave are all from the Verona area and, like so many Italian wines, taste better near their region of origin. This is also true of Prosecco, a light champagnelike wine from the area around Conegliano. Grappa, the local ﬁrewater, is associated particularly with the upland town of Bassano di Grappa, where every alimentari stocks a dozen varieties. Made from grape husks, juniper berries or plums, grappa is very much an acquired taste.

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| Venice (Venezia) SS. Giovanni e Paolo

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V E NI C E AND THE V E NE TO

| Arrival

– the theft of the body of St Mark from Alexandria in 828. St Mark displaced Byzantium’s St Theodore as the city’s patron, and a basilica was built alongside the doge’s castle to accommodate the relics. These two buildings – the Basilica di San Marco and the Palazzo Ducale – were to remain the emblems of the Venetian state and the repository of power within the city for almost one thousand years. Before the close of the tenth century the Venetian trading networks were well established through concessions granted by Byzantium in the markets of the East. By the early twelfth century Venetian merchants had won exemption from all tolls within the eastern empire and were proﬁting from the chaos that followed the First Crusade, launched in 1095. Prosperity found expression in the fabric of the city: the basilica and many of its mosaics are from this period. The Fourth Crusade, diverted to Constantinople by the Venetians, set the seal on their maritime empire. They brought back shiploads of treasure (including the horses of San Marco) from the Sack of Constantinople in 1204, but more signiﬁcant was the division of the territorial spoils, which left “one quarter and half a quarter” of the Roman Empire under Venice’s sway and gave it a chain of ports that stretched to the Black Sea. After the Sack of Rome in 1527 the whole Italian peninsula, with the exception of Venice, came under the domination of Emperor Charles V. Hemmed in at home, Venice saw its overseas territory further whittled away by the Turks as the century progressed: by 1529 the Ottoman Empire extended right along the southern Mediterranean to Morocco, and even the great naval success at Lépanto in 1571 was followed by the surrender of Cyprus. The decline continued throughout the 1600s and by the eighteenth century Venice had become a political nonentity: the playground of Europe, a city of casinos and perpetual festivals. Napoleon ﬁnally brought the show to an end: on May 12, 1797, the Maggior Consiglio met for the last time, voting to accede to his demand that it dismantle the machinery of government. After Waterloo, Venice fell to the Austrians and remained a Habsburg province until united with the Kingdom of Italy in 1866. The need for a more substantial economic base led, in the wake of World War I, to the construction of the industrial centre across the lagoon at Marghera, adjacent to Mestre, which in 1933 was connected to Venice by a road link. After World War II Mestre-Marghera’s growth accelerated greatly, and the mainland conurbation has continued to expand, to the detriment of the centro storico. The factories of MestreMarghera are essential to the economy of the province, but have caused problems too: apart from polluting the lagoon, they have siphoned many people out of Venice and into the cheaper housing of Mestre, making Mestre-Marghera today more than three times larger than the historic centre of Venice, where the population has dropped since World War II from around 170,000 to under 60,000. No city has suffered more from the tourist industry than Venice – around twenty million people visit the city each year – though without them Venice would barely survive.

Arrival Arriving by air, you’ll touch down in one of two airports: Treviso (T 042.231.5111, W www.trevisoairport.it), 30km inland, or at Venice’s Marco Polo airport (T 041.260.9260, W www.veniceairport.com), around 7km north of Venice, on the edge of the lagoon. The former is used chieﬂy by charter companies, some of whom provide a bus link from the airport into Venice. If such a service isn’t provided, you can take the ATVO bus directly to Venice; it costs €6 and takes seventy minutes. Alternatively, take the #6 bus from outside the terminal building to Treviso (20min), from where there are regular bus and train connections to Venice.

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| Information

Most scheduled ﬂights and some charters arrive at Marco Polo. From here, the most inexpensive transport is provided by the two bus services to the terminal at Piazzale Roma: the ATVO (Azienda Trasporti Veneto Orientale; W www.atvo .it) coach, which departs every thirty minutes and takes around twenty minutes (€3), or the ACTV (Azienda del Consorzio Trasporti Veneziano; W www.actv .it) bus #5 or #5D, which is equally frequent: it’s a local bus service, taking about ﬁve minutes longer, and costs €2.50. If you’d prefer to approach the city by water, you could take one of the Alilaguna water-buses, which operate on four routes from the airport: Murano – Fondamente Nove – Lido – San Zaccaria – San Marco – Záttere (6.10am–midnight); Murano – Fondamente Nove – Rialto – Sant’Angelo (9.55am–4pm); Murano – Lido – Arsenale – San Marco – Záttere (9.15am–9.15pm); and directly to San Zaccaria and then San Marco (9.30am–3.30pm). The Alilaguna fare is €6.50 to Murano and €13 to central Venice. All services are hourly, and the journey time to San Marco is about 70min. Tickets for Alilaguna, ATVO and ACTV buses are from the offices in the arrivals hall; in addition to single tickets, you can also get ACTV passes (see p.267) and Venice Cards here (see box opposite) – a wise investment for most visitors. Note that ACTV passes are not valid on the Alilaguna service, nor on the ATVO bus. Water-taxi drivers tout for business in and around the arrivals hall. This is the most luxurious means of getting into the city, but it’s ruinously expensive: you’ll pay in excess of €100 to San Marco, for up to six people. Ordinary taxis are ranked outside the arrivals hall, and cost about €35 to Piazzale Roma.

By road or rail Visitors arriving by car must leave their vehicle either on the mainland or in one of the city’s car parks – at Piazzale Roma or the ever-expanding Tronchetto, Europe’s largest car park. Prices at these two vary according to the time of year, the length of stay and the size of car, but it’s never cheap, and in summer the tailbacks can be horrendous. It’s better to use either the less expensive open-air San Giuliano car park at Mestre (open summer, Easter and during Carnevale), linked by ACTV buses with central Venice, or the terminal at Fusina, just south of Mestre, open year-round and connected by water-buses with Piazza San Marco (ACTV passes not valid). Arriving by train or long-distance bus, you simply get off at the end of the line. The Piazzale Roma bus station and Santa Lucia train station are just ﬁve minutes’ walk from each other, linked by the new Ponte della Costituzione, at the top of the Canal Grande, and both are well served by vaporetto (water-bus) services to the core of the city.

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The main tourist office – known as the Venice Pavilion – occupies the Palazzina del Santi, on the west side of the Giardinetti Reali, within a minute of the Piazza (daily 10am–6pm; T 041.529.8711, W www.turismovenezia.it); smaller offices operate in the corner of the Piazza at Calle dell’Ascensione 71/F (daily 9am–3.30pm; T 041.520.8740), at the train station (daily 8am–6.30pm; T 041.529.8727), in Marco Polo airport arrivals area (Mon–Sat 9.30am–7.30pm; T 041.541.5887), in the multistorey car park at Piazzale Roma (daily 9.30am–4.30pm; T 041.529.8746) and on the Lido at Gran Viale S.M. Elisabetta 6 ( June–Sept daily 9.30am–12.30pm & 3.30–6pm; T 041.526.5721). The Calle dell’Ascensione office is also the outlet for information on the whole Veneto region.

The Venice and Rolling Venice cards

V E NI C E AND THE V E NE TO

| City transport

Aimed at tourists who are doing some intensive sightseeing, the Venice Card comes in two forms and is valid for either three or seven days, with a meagre discount for under-30s. The “Transport” version (3-day €48/47; 7-day €68/67) gives unlimited use of ACTV public transport, reduced admission to some one-off exhibitions and free access to the city’s supervised public toilets; the ACTV travel passes (see box, p.267) are a better investment than this. The “Transport & Culture” version (3-day €73/66; 7-day €96/87), however, also gives you one free visit to all the museums and churches covered by the Museum Pass and Chorus Pass (see box, p.274), plus the Querini-Stampalia and Jewish museums. For a €23 supplement you can buy a version of the Venice Card that’s valid on Alilaguna services to and from the airport. Note that kids under 6 get free museum entrance anyway, but only under-4s get free travel on public transport. You can buy Venice Cards from the tourist ofﬁces and at some of the larger vaporetto stops, notably Piazzale Roma, the train station, Accademia, Rialto and San Marco Vallaresso (outlets are identiﬁed by the Hellovenezia sign); alternatively, you can order the card a minimum of 48 hours in advance online at W www.hellovenezia.com, which gives a discount of at least ten percent. You will be given a code number which you will need to present when you turn up to collect your ticket from one of the ofﬁces listed above. If you’re aged between 14 and 29, you are eligible for a Rolling Venice card, which entitles you to discounts at some shops, restaurants, hostels, campsites, museums, concerts and exhibitions, plus a discount on the 72-hour ACTV travel pass. The card costs €4, is valid until the end of the year in which it’s bought, and is worth it if you’re in town for at least a week and aim to make the most of every minute. The Rolling Venice card is available from the same outlets as the Venice Card, on production of a passport or similar ID.

These offices distribute copies of Eventi & Manifestazioni, a free quarterly publication that lists the latest museum and gallery opening hours and prices, plus details of exhibitions, concerts and other events; some of the information is in Italian only, but the essentials are in English too. Also useful is the English– Italian magazine Un Ospite di Venezia (W www.unospitedivenezia.it): produced fortnightly in summer and monthly in winter, it gives slightly fuller information on some events, plus extras such as vaporetto timetables; it’s free from the reception desks of many four- and ﬁve-star hotels. The best source of information, though, is: venews (€2.50; W www.venezianews.it), published on the ﬁrst day of each month and sold at newsstands all over the city; it has good coverage of exhibitions, cultural events, bars and restaurants.

City transport Venice has two interlocking street systems – the canals and the pavements – and, contrary to what you might expect, you’ll be using the latter for most of the time. With the exceptions of the #1, #2 and the night service, the water-buses skirt the city centre, connecting points on the periphery and the outer islands. Taking a water-bus is usually the quickest way of getting between far-ﬂung points, but in many cases the speediest way of getting from A to B is on foot – you don’t have to run, for instance, to cover the distance from the Piazza to the Rialto Bridge quicker than the #1 boat.

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Water-buses There are two basic types of boat: vaporetti, which are the lumbering workhorses used on the Canal Grande stopping service and other heavily used routes, and motoscaﬁ, smaller vessels employed on routes where the volume of traffic isn’t as great. The standard fare is an exorbitant €6.50 for a single journey; the ticket is valid for an hour. Should you have more than one piece of large luggage, you’re supposed to pay €6.50 per additional item. Children under 4 travel free. Tickets are available from most landing stages, from tabacchi, from shops displaying the

Water-bus routes V E NI C E AND THE V E NE TO

| City transport 266

What follows is a run-through of the water-bus routes that visitors are most likely to ﬁnd useful; a full timetable can usually be picked up at the major vaporetto stops: Piazzale Roma, Ferrovia, San Marco, San Zaccaria, Accademia, Fondamente Nove. Be warned that so many services call at San Marco, San Zaccaria, Rialto and the train station that the stops at these points are spread out over a long stretch of waterfront. Note also that the main San Marco stop is also known as San Marco Vallaresso, or plain Vallaresso, and that the San Zaccaria stop is as close to the Piazza as is the Vallaresso stop. #1 This is the workhorse of the system, and the one you’ll use most often. It starts at the Piazzale Roma, calls at every stop on the Canal Grande except San Samuele, works its way along the San Marco waterfront to Sant’Elena, then goes over to the Lido. Daily 5am–11.45pm, every ten minutes for most of the day. #2 From San Zaccaria to San Giorgio Maggiore, along Giudecca, to Záttere, Tronchetto, Piazzale Roma, the train station, then down the Canal Grande to the Rialto (making fewer stops than the #1); it also runs in the opposite direction. Between approximately 9am and 5pm it runs from Rialto to San Marco (Vallaresso), and vice versa. Daily 5.40am–11.10pm, every ten minutes for most of the day. #41/42 The circular service, running round the core of Venice, with a detour to San Michele and Murano. The #41 travels anticlockwise, the #42 clockwise. Daily 6.30am– 7.30pm, every 20min; after 7.30pm, the #41/42 together shuttle between Murano and Fondamente Nove, running every 20min until around 11.30pm. #51/52 This route also circles Venice, but heads out to the Lido (rather than Murano) at the easternmost end of the circle. The #51 runs anticlockwise, the #52 clockwise, and both run fast through the Giudecca canal, stopping only at Záttere and Santa Marta between San Zaccaria and Piazzale Roma. Both run every 20min for most of the day, from 4.30am to 11.20pm. In the early morning and late evening (4.30–6.20am & 8.30–11.20pm) the boats do not run along the whole route. #LN The “Laguna Nord” runs from Fondamente Nove, calling at Murano-Faro before heading on to Mazzorbo, Burano (from where there is a connecting half-hourly #T shuttle to Torcello), Treporti, Punta Sabbioni, the Lido and San Zaccaria (the Pietà stop); it also runs in the opposite direction. Daily from 4.30am to 11pm; every 30min until 7.40pm, then hourly. #DM The “Diretto Murano” runs from Tronchetto via Piazzale Roma and Ferrovia to Murano, where it always calls at Colonna and Museo, and often at other Murano stops too. Daily 8am–6pm, every 30min. #N This night service is a fusion of the #1 and #2 routes, running from the Lido to Giardini, San Zaccaria, San Marco (Vallaresso), up the Canal Grande to the train station, Piazzale Roma, Tronchetto, Sacca Fisola, San Basilio, Záttere, along Giudecca to San Giorgio and then to San Zaccaria – and vice versa. It runs along the whole of the route roughly every 30min, and along the Rialto-to-Tronchetto part every 20min. Daily 11.30pm–4.30am. Another night service, the “Notturno Laguna Nord”, connects Fondamente Nove with Murano and Burano (11.30pm–3am, every 30min).

Travel cards

ACTV sign, from the tourist offices and the ACTV office at Piazzale Roma (daily: summer 6am–11.30pm; winter 6am–8pm). Tickets can also be bought on board at the standard price, as long as you ask the attendant as soon as you get on board; if you delay, you could be liable for a spot-ﬁne of €44.

Traghetti

| City transport

There are four bridges on the Canal Grande – at Piazzale Roma, the train station, Rialto and Accademia – so the traghetti (gondola ferries) that cross it can be useful time-savers. Costing just €0.50, they are also the only cheap way of getting a ride on a gondola – though it’s de rigueur to stand in a traghetto rather than sit. The gondola traghetti across the Canal Grande are as follows (proceeding from the San Marco end to the station end): San Marco (Vallaresso)–Dogana di Mare (daily 9am–2pm); Santa Maria del Giglio–Salute (daily 9am–6pm); Ca’ Rezzonico–San Samuele (Mon–Sat 8.30am–1.30pm); San Tomà–Santo Stefano (Mon–Sat 7.30am– 8pm, Sun 8.30am–7.30pm); Riva del Carbon–Riva del Vin (near Rialto; Mon–Sat 8am–1pm); Santa Soﬁa–Rialto (Mon–Sat 7.30am–8pm, Sun 8.45am–7pm); San Marcuola–Fondaco dei Turchi (Mon–Sat 9am–1pm). In the winter months it’s common for traghetti to cease operating considerably earlier than the times indicated above, or even to be suspended altogether.

V E NI C E AND THE V E NE TO

Unless you intend to walk all day, you’ll almost certainly save money by buying some sort of travel card as soon as you arrive. ACTV produces tickets valid for 12 hours (€16), 24 hours (€18), 36 hours (€23), 48 hours (€28), 72 hours (€33), and seven days (€50), which can be used on all ACTV services within Venice (including ACTV land buses from the airport), but not on Alilaguna services. If you buy an ordinary single ticket at the train station, Piazzale Roma, San Zaccaria or San Marco it will in all likelihood be automatically validated. Most tickets, however, must be validated before embarking, at one of the orange machines at the vaporetto stops. Travel cards have to be swiped before each journey at the meter-like machines at every stop.

Water taxis Venice’s water taxis are possibly the most expensive form of taxi in western Europe: the clock starts at €13 and goes up €1.80 every minute. All sorts of additional surcharges are levied as well – €5 for each extra person if there are more than two in the party; €3 for each piece of luggage over 50cm long; €8 for a ride between 10pm and 7am. There are three ways of getting a taxi: go to one of the main stands (in front of the Piazzetta and at the airport), ﬁnd one in the process of disgorging its passengers, or call T 041.522.2303 or 041.723.112. If you phone up there is also a surcharge, of course.

Gondolas The gondola is no longer a form of transport but rather an adjunct of the tourist industry. But however much the gondola’s image has become tarnished, it is an astonishingly graceful craft, perfectly designed for negotiating the tortuous and shallow waterways: a gondola displaces so little water, and the gondoliers are so dexterous, that there’s hardly a canal in the city that they can’t negotiate. To hire one costs €80 per forty minutes for up to six passengers, rising to €100 between 8pm and 8am; you pay an extra €40 for every additional 20min, or €50 from 8pm

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to 8am. Further hefty surcharges will be levied should you require the services of an on-board accordionist or tenor – and a surprising number of people do. Even though the tariff is set by the local authorities, it’s been known for some gondoliers to try to extort even higher rates than these – if you do decide to go for a ride, establish the charge before setting off. To minimize the chances of being ripped off, only take a boat from one of the following official gondola stands: west of Piazza San Marco at Calle Vallaresso, Campo San Moisè or Campo Santa Maria del Giglio; immediately north of the Piazza at Bacino Orseolo; on the Molo, in front of the Palazzo Ducale; outside the Danieli hotel on Riva degli Schiavoni; at the train station; at Piazzale Roma; at Campo Santa Soﬁa, near the Ca’ d’Oro; at San Tomà; or by the Rialto Bridge on Riva Carbon.

Accommodation

| Accommodation

Demand for holiday accommodation in Venice outstrips supply to such a degree that this city is the most expensive in western Europe, with some one-star hotels charging in excess of €150 for a double room in high season. What’s more, the high season here is longer than anywhere else in the country – it is officially classiﬁed as running from March 15 to November 15 and then from December 21 to January 6, but many places don’t recognize the existence of a low season any more. Several hotels, on the other hand, lower their prices in August, the month in which many Italians – including Venetian restaurateurs and bar owners – decamp to the beaches and the mountains. It’s never a good idea to turn up in Venice without reserving your accommodation ﬁrst, and it’s wisest to book your place at least three months in advance. The tourist office’s website (W www.turismovenezia.it) gives details of accommodation of all types, or try the websites of the Venetian Hoteliers’ Association (AVA) – W www.veneziasi.it. Finally, should you bowl into town with nowhere to stay, you could call in at one of the AVA’s VeneziaSi booking offices: at the train station (daily: summer 8am–9pm; winter 8am–7pm); on the Tronchetto (daily: 9am–8pm); in the multistorey car park at Piazzale Roma (daily: 9am–9pm); and at Marco Polo airport (daily: summer 9am–7pm; winter noon–7pm). They only deal with hotels (not hostels or B&Bs) and take a deposit that’s deductible from your ﬁrst night’s bill.

Hotels and locande

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Venice has well in excess of two hundred hotels, ranging from spartan one-star joints to ﬁve-star lusso establishments charging over €1500 per night for the best double room in high season. Though there are some anomalies, the star system is a broadly reliable indicator of quality, but always bear in mind that you pay through the nose for your proximity to Piazza San Marco. So if you want maximum comfort for your money, decide how much you can afford and then look for a place outside the San Marco sestiere – after all, it’s not far to walk, wherever you’re staying. If you are looking for a small family-run establishment, a locanda – guesthouse – might ﬁt the bill: Venice’s best locande offer a standard of accommodation equivalent to three- or even four-star hotels (24hr room service is just about the only facility they don’t provide), but often at a lower cost. Breakfast is nearly always included in the room rate; if it isn’t, you’re best advised to take it in a café, where the quality will probably be better and the price certainly lower.

San Marco

Accademia Villa Maravege Fondamenta Bollani 1058 T041.521.0188, Wwww.pensioneaccademia .it. Once the Russian embassy, this seventeenthcentury villa has a devoted following, not least on account of its garden, which occupies a promontory at the convergence of two canals, with a view of the Canal Grande. The hotel also owns two three-star hotels in San Marco and does try to palm off people with those if the Villa is full, but they lack the charm

| Accommodation

Dorsoduro

and calm of this hotel. Book at least three months ahead. 6 Agli Alboretti Rio Terrà Foscarini 884 T041.523.0058, W www.aglialboretti.com. Friendly and popular family-run three-star well situated right next to the Accademia; its highseason prices compare very favourably with those of many rivals. 6 Ca’ Foscari Calle della Frescada 3887/B T041.710.401, Wwww.locandacafoscari.com. Quiet, well-decorated and inexpensive one-star, tucked away near San Tomà. Just eleven rooms (seven en-suite), so it’s quickly booked up. Its hours are somewhat hostel-like, with a 1am curfew. 3 Ca’ Maria Adele Rio Terrà dei Catecumeni 111 T041.520.3078, Wwww.camariaadele .it. Five of the twelve rooms in this very upmarket locanda are themed – the Sala Noir, for example, is a “voluptuous and hot” creation in cocoa and spice tones. The non-themed accommodation is less artfully conceived (and a lot cheaper), but spacious and very comfortable. Online discounts can bring the price down by as much as ﬁfty percent. 8 Ca’ Pisani Rio Terà Foscarini 979A T041.240.1411, W www.capisanihotel.it. This glamorous 29-room four-star, just a few metres from the Accademia, takes its cue from the style of the 1930s and 1940s, making heavy use of dark wood and chrome. The high-class retro look is a refreshing break from the Renaissance and Rococo ﬂourishes that tend to prevail in Venice’s upmarket establishments. 8 La Calcina Záttere ai Gesuati 780 T041.520.6466, Wwww.lacalcina.com. Charismatic and comparatively inexpensive threestar hotel in the house where Ruskin wrote much of The Stones of Venice. From the more expensive rooms you can gaze across to the Redentore, a church that gave him apoplexy. All rooms have parquet ﬂoors (unusual in Venice), and no TV or minibar – a management decision indicative of the desire to maintain the building’s character. Its restaurant (La Piscina) is good too. 5 Locanda San Barnaba Calle del Traghetto 2785 T041.241.1233, Wwww.locanda-sanbarnaba.com. Exceptionally pleasant and nicely priced three-star hotel right by the Ca’ Rezzonico. Thirteen wellequipped rooms – some have eighteenth-century frescoes, and one has a really enormous bath. 5 Montin Fondamenta di Borgo 1147 T041.522.7151, Wwww.locandamontin.com. The Montin is known principally for its upmarket and once-fashionable restaurant; few people realize that it offers some of Venice’s best budget accommodation. Only eleven rooms, three of them without private bathroom; the best rooms are spacious and balconied. 4

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Ai Do Mori Calle Larga S. Marzo 658 T 041.520.4817, W www.hotelaidomori.com. Very friendly, and situated a few paces off the Piazza, this one-star is a top recommendation for budget travellers. It has eleven rooms; no. 11 has a private terrace looking over the roof of the basilica. No lift – the rooms are on the third and fourth ﬂoors. All rooms have their own bathroom. 5 Al Gambero Calle dei Fabbri 4687 T041.522.4384, Wwww.locandaalgambero.com. Three-star hotel a short distance off the north side of the Piazza; many of the rooms overlook a canal that’s on the standard gondola route. There’s a boisterous bistro on the ground ﬂoor. 5 Art Deco Calle delle Botteghe 2966 T 041.277.0558, W www.locandaartdeco.com. This cosy locanda has a seventeenth-century palazzo setting, but the pristinely white bedrooms have modern wrought-iron furniture. 5 Casa Petrarca Calle Schiavinie 4386 T041.520.0430, Wwww.casapetrarca.com. A very hospitable one-star, one of the cheapest hotels near the Piazza. Just seven rooms: one is very small and six have en-suite bathrooms. All rooms on the ﬁrst ﬂoor – and there is a tiny lift. No credit cards. 4 Fiorita Campiello Nuovo 3457 T041.523.4754, W www.locandaﬁorita.com. Welcoming one-star with just ten rooms on a small square by Santo Stefano church. Rooms are all en-suite and decorated in eighteenth-century style, and many are spacious. Helpful staff. 5 Novecento Calle del Dose 2683 T041.241.3765, Wwww.novecento.biz. Beautiful, intimate and very welcoming locanda with nine individually decorated doubles and luxurious bathrooms. Styling is ethnic/eclectic (furnishings from Morocco, China, Japan and Egypt), and there’s a small courtyard for breakfast. 5 Orseolo Corte Zorzi 1083 T041.520.4827, W www.locandaorseolo.com. Family-run locanda, ﬁfty metres north of Piazza San Marco. Rooms are spacious and light (the ones with canal views are more expensive) and breakfasts substantial. 6

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ACCOMMODATION Accademia Villa Maravege Agli Alboretti Ai Do Mori Al Gambero Art Deco Ca’ Arco Antico Ca’ Fóscari Ca’ Maria Adele Ca’ Pisani Casa Petrarca Casa Querini Casa Verardo Fiorita Locanda San Barnaba Novecento Orseolo Scandinavia

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CAFÉS & RESTAURANTS Al Bacareto 19 Alla Madonna 7 Antico Dolo 2 Caffè del Doge 3 Florian 21 Igloo 18 La Boutique del Gelato 10 Marchini 16 Nico 23 Osteria al Ponte 12 Osteria-Enoteca San Marco 20 Rosa Salva 11 & 17 Rosticceria Gislon 8 VizioVirtù 14

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San Polo and Santa Croce

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Ca’ Arco Antico Calle del Forno, San Polo 1451 T 041.241.1227, W www.arcoantico venice.com. This six-room locanda offers an attractive mix of the traditional and the modern. With big rooms, a great location near San Polo church, and an excellent breakfast (a rarity in Venice), this offers some of the best-value accommodation in the city. 5 Ca’ San Giorgio Salizada del Fontego dei Turchi 1725, Santa Croce T041.275.9177, Wwww .casangiorgio.com. Exposed timber beams and walls of raw brick advertise the age of the Gothic palazzo that’s occupied by this ﬁne little locanda, while the bedrooms are tastefully and very comfortably furnished in quasi-antique style. The gorgeous top-ﬂoor suite has its own rooftop terrace. 4 San Cassiano-Ca’ Favretto Calle della Rosa, Santa Croce 2232 T041.524.1768, Wwww.sancassiano.it. Beautiful 35-room four-star with some rooms looking across the Canal Grande towards the Ca’ d’Oro. Has very helpful staff, a nice courtyard garden and a grand entrance hall. It was once the home of the nineteenth-century painter Giacomo Favretto, and is ﬁtted out in the style of the period. 6

Locanda Ai Santi Apostoli Strada Nova 4391/A T041.521.2612, W www.locandasantiapostoli .com. Occupying the top ﬂoor of an ancient palazzo opposite the Rialto market, this ten-room three-star has two lovely rooms overlooking the Canal Grande – for which you’ll pay €100 more than for the standard doubles. The staff are very helpful, the location terriﬁc, and you can get huge discounts online. 7 Locanda Leon Bianco Corte Leon Bianco 5629 T041.523.3572, Wwww.leonbianco.it. Friendly and charming locanda in a superb location not far from the Rialto Bridge, tucked away beside the ancient Ca’ da Mosto. Only eight rooms, but three overlook the Canal Grande (for which there’s a premium) and most of the others are spacious and tastefully furnished in eighteenth-century style – one even has a huge fresco copied from a Tiepolo ceiling. 5 Palazzo Abadessa Calle Priuli 4011 T041.241.3784, Wwww.abadessa.com. This gorgeous residenza d’epoca is a meticulously restored palazzo behind the church of Santa Soﬁa; all eight of its bedrooms (some of them huge) are nicely furnished with genuine antiques, and there’s a lovely secluded garden as well. 6

Cannaregio

Castello

Abbazia Calle Priuli 68 T041.717.333, Wwww .abbaziahotel.com. One of Cannaregio’s most restful hotels, the light-ﬁlled Abbazia occupies a former Carmelite monastery (the monks attached to the Scalzi still live in a building adjoining the hotel), and provides three-star amenities without losing its air of quasi-monastic austerity. There’s a delightful garden too, and the staff are exceptionally helpful. 6 Adua Lista di Spagna 233/A T041.716.184, W www.aduahotel.com. Thirteen-room two-star with friendly management, benign prices and a choice of rooms with private or shared bathroom. One of the best hotels in an area where too much of the accommodation is below standard. 4 Bernardi Semenzato Calle dell’Oca 4366 T041.522.7257, Wwww.hotelbernardi.com. Very well-priced two-star in a prime location (in an alleyway close to Campo S. Apostoli), with immensely helpful owners who speak excellent English. Singles for as little as €55 in low season (with shared bathroom). 3 Giorgione Calle Larga dei Proverbi 4587 T041.522.5810, Wwww.hotelgiorgione.com. This plush and well-priced four-star, not far from the Rialto Bridge, has a more personal touch than many of the city’s upmarket hotels – it has been run by the same family for generations. There’s a quiet garden and a pool table, and some of the 76 rooms have a small private terrace. Big discounts online. 5

Casa Querini Campo San Giovanni Novo 4388 T041.241.1294, W www.locandaquerini.com. Friendly locanda with six smallish but nicely furnished a/c rooms; it overlooks a tiny campo that’s perfectly quiet, even though it’s just a few metres from the Piazza. 4 Casa Verardo Calle della Chiesa 4765 T041.528.6127, Wwww.casaverardo.it. A ﬁne three-star hotel occupying a nicely refurbished sixteenth-century palazzo. Twenty-three wellequipped rooms with a breakfast terrace downstairs, a small garden, a sun lounge at the top and another terrace attached to the priciest of the rooms. 6 Danieli Riva degli Schiavoni 4196 T041.522.6480, Wwww.danielihotelvenice.com. Others might rival its prices but nowhere in Venice can compete with the glamour of the Danieli. This Gothic palazzo affords just about the most sybaritic hotel experience on the continent – provided you book a room in the old building, not the modern extension. High-season doubles are advertised at €800 and upwards, but online booking, well in advance, might get a discount of almost ﬁfty percent. 9 La Residenza Campo Bandiera e Moro 3608 T041.528.5315, Wwww .venicelaresidenza.com. This fourteenth-century palazzo is a mid-range gem (by Venetian standards), on a tranquil square just off the main waterfront. The fourteen rooms are very spacious

(rare at this price) and elegant, and the management extremely simpatico. Payment in cash preferred for short stays. 5 Scandinavia Campo S. Maria Formosa 5240 T 041.522.3507, W www.scandinaviahotel.com. Sizeable and comfortable three-star, decorated

mainly in eighteenth-century style (lots of Murano glass and ﬂoral motifs). Most of the 33 rooms are a decent size, and several of them overlook Campo Santa Maria Formosa, one of the city’s liveliest and best-looking squares. Massive reductions in the quiet months. 6

Hostels

convent in a quiet part of Cannaregio, with dorm beds and double rooms, all with shared bathrooms. Check-in 5–8pm; 12.30pm curfew; €20 per person for a dorm bed, €25 for a bed in a shared room. It’s essential to book in summer. Closed over the Christmas period. Ostello Venezia Fondamenta delle Zitelle, Giudecca 86 T041.523.8211, Wwww.ostellovenezia.it. The city’s HI hostel occupies a superb location looking over to San Marco, but it’s run with a certain briskness. Check-in opens at 1.30pm in summer and 4pm in winter. Curfew 11.30pm, chucking-out time 9.30am. Even with 260 beds it gets so busy in summer that reservations must be made by April. Breakfast and sheets included in the price – but remember to add the expense of the boat over to Giudecca (the nearest stop is Zitelle). No kitchen, but meals for around €10. HI card necessary, but you can join on the spot (€3). Dorms from €21.

| Accommodation

Domus Civica Calle Campazzo, San Polo 3082 T 041.721.103, Wwww.domuscivica.com. This Catholic women’s student hostel is open to travellers of both sexes from mid-June to mid-Sept. Most rooms are double, with free showers. No breakfast; 11.30pm curfew. Reductions for ISIC and Rolling Venice card holders. 1 Foresteria Valdese S. Maria Formosa, Castello 5170 T041.528.6797, Wwww.foresteriavenezia.it. Run by Waldensians, this hostel is in a wonderful palazzo, with ﬂaking frescoes in the rooms and a large communal salon. It has several large dorms, plus rooms that can accommodate up to eight people. Reservations by phone only; dorm beds cannot be booked in advance, except by groups. Check-in 9am–1pm & 6–8pm. Dorm beds €25. Ostello Santa Fosca S. Maria dei Servi, Cannaregio 2372 T041.715.733, Wwww.santafosca.com. Student-run hostel in an atmospheric former Servite

V E NI C E AND THE V E NE TO

Venice has a large HI hostel and a few other hostel-like establishments – most run by religious foundations – offering basic accommodation. Some of the latter are more expensive than one-star hotels and B&Bs; we’ve listed only the low-cost options.

Camping There are some unlovely campsites near the airport – better to head out to the outer edge of the lagoon, to the Litorale del Cavallino, which stretches from Punta Sabbioni to Jésolo and has a total of around 60,000 pitches, many of them quite luxuriously appointed. Vaporetto #LN, from Fondamente Nove or San Zaccaria to

B&Bs and self-catering As you may expect in a city in which demand for accommodation is such that someone could get away with charging €100 for the privilege of sleeping on a mattress in the attic, much of Venice’s accommodation is not terribly attractive, but many B&Bs are excellent, offering accommodation that compares favourably with budget hotels – and some are in effect small-scale locande, with rooms of three-star standard or better. (A is deﬁned in Venice as a private dwelling in which a maximum of three bedrooms are available to paying guests, with a minimum of one shared bathroom for guests’ exclusive use.) Full listings can be found at Wwww .turismovenezia.it. If you’re staying in Venice for at least a week, it can be worth looking at a selfcatering apartment. The tourist ofﬁce has a list of landlords offering apartments at Wwww.turismovenezia.it, or you could look at Wwww.venice-rentals.com, www .visitvenice.co.uk or www.holiday-rentals.com.

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Punta Sabbioni, stops close to the two-star Miramare, Lungomare Dante Alighieri 29 (April–Oct; T 041.966.150, W www.camping-miramare.it); a bit further away there’s the more luxurious four-star Marina di Venezia, Via Montello 6, which adjoins the huge new AquaMarina waterpark (May–Sept; T 041.966.146, W www.marina divenezia.it). Bear in mind that it’s a forty-minute boat trip into the city from here. Back on the mainland there’s a two-star thousand-place site in Fusina, at Via Moranzani 93 (open all year; T 041.547.0064). A Linea Fusina water-bus links Fusina to the Záttere in central Venice (ACTV tickets not valid; hourly: late May– early Sept 8am–10pm; rest of year 8am–8pm), taking 25 minutes. Alternatively, you can get a bus to Mestre and change there for a bus or train. V E NI C E AND THE V E NE TO

The City The 118 islands of central Venice are divided into six districts known as sestieri, and the houses within each sestiere are numbered in a sequence that makes sense solely to the functionaries of the post office – this explains how buildings facing each other across an alleyway can have numbers that are separated by hundreds.

Museum and church passes

| The City

In an attempt to make sure that tourists go to see more than just the big central monuments, a variety of museum cards have been introduced. The Palazzo Ducale and Museo Correr can be visited only with a museum card; at the other places you have the option of paying an entry charge just for that attraction. Passes are available from any of the participating museums. Note that accompanied disabled people have free access to all of the civic museums. There is also a combined ticket for the city’s state museums (the Accademia, Ca’ d’Oro and Museo Orientale), costing €11, or €5.50 concessions (see below).

Museum passes Musei di Piazza San Marco (Nov–March; €12, or €6.50 for ages 6–14, students under 30, EU citizens over 65 and Rolling Venice Card holders). Gets you into the Palazzo Ducale, Museo Correr, Museo Archeologico and the Biblioteca Marciana. San Marco Plus (April–Oct; €13/€7.50). Allows admission to these four, plus one other civic museum of your choice. The other civic museums are Ca’ Rezzonico, Casa Goldoni, Palazzo Mocenigo, Museo Fortuny, Ca’ Pésaro (the modern art and oriental museums), the Museo del Merletto (Burano) and the Museo del Vetro (Murano). Museum Pass (€18/12; valid six months). Covers all the civic museums above, allowing one visit to each. Note that the more expensive version of the Venice Card (see p.265) covers all of the museums covered by the Museum Pass.

Church pass

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Chorus Pass (€10; valid one year; Wwww.chorusvenezia.org). Allows one visit to each of the sixteen churches participating in the scheme. The individual entrance fee at each church is €3, and all are open to tourists from Monday to Saturday, 10am to 5pm (except where stated otherwise, below). The pass is available at the churches listed below, and the full version of the Venice Card (see p.268) also gives admission to all of them: the Frari (Mon–Sat 9am–6pm, Sun 1–6pm); the Gesuati; Madonna dell’Orto; the Redentore; San Giacomo dell’Orio; San Giobbe (Mon–Sat 10am–1.15pm); San Giovanni Elemosinario; San Pietro di Castello; San Polo; San Sebastiano; San Stae; Sant’Alvise (Mon–Sat 1.45–5pm); Santa Maria dei Miracoli; Santa Maria del Giglio; Santa Maria Formosa; Santo Stefano.

San Marco

| The City

The section of Venice enclosed by the lower loop of the Canal Grande – a rectangle smaller than 1000m by 500m – is, in essence, the Venice of the travel brochures. The plush hotels are concentrated here, in the sestiere of San Marco, as are the swankier shops and the best-known cultural attractions of the city. “The ﬁnest drawing-room in Europe” was how Napoleon described its focal point, the Piazza San Marco – the only piazza in Venice, all other squares being campi or campielli. Less genteel phrases might seem appropriate on a suffocating summer afternoon, but the Piazza has been congested for centuries. Its parades, festivities and markets have always drawn visitors, the biggest attraction being an international trade fair known as the Fiera della Sensa that keeps the Piazza buzzing for the fortnight following the Ascension Day ceremony of the Marriage of Venice to the Sea. The coffee shops of the Piazza were a vital component of eighteenth-century high society, and the two survivors from that period – Florian and Quadri – are still the most expensive in town.

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Venice’s main thoroughfare, the Canal Grande, is almost 4km long and between thirty and seventy metres wide (but at no point much deeper than ﬁve metres), and it divides the city in half – three sestieri to the west and three to the east. The majority of the most important palaces in Venice stand on the Canal Grande, and the main facades of all of them are on the canalside. On the east side of the Canal Grande is the sestiere of San Marco, the area where the majority of the essential sights are clustered, and accordingly the most expensive and most crowded district of the city. The undoubted appeal of the area is matched in the quieter sestieri, where your chances of getting lost in the jumble of streets is almost guaranteed and provides one of the joys of any visit, offering the possibility of stumbling on some hidden gem of a square or tranquil side-canal. East of San Marco is Castello, and to the north is Cannaregio – both of which become more residential, and quieter, the further you get from the centre. On the other side of the Canal Grande, the largest of the sestieri is Dorsoduro, stretching from the fashionable quarter at the southern tip of the canal to the docks in the west. Santa Croce, named after a now-demolished church, roughly follows the curve of the Canal Grande from Piazzale Roma to a point just short of the Rialto, where it joins the smartest and commercially most active of the districts on this bank – San Polo.

The Basilica di San Marco

The Basilica di San Marco is the most exotic of Europe’s cathedrals, and no visitor can remain dispassionate when confronted by it. Herbert Spencer loathed it – “a ﬁne sample of barbaric architecture”, but to John Ruskin it was a “treasureheap … a confusion of delight”. It’s certainly confusing, increasingly so as you come nearer and the details emerge; some knowledge of the history of the building helps bring a little order out of chaos.

Visiting the Basilica di San Marco The basilica is open to tourists Monday to Saturday 9.45am–5pm and Sunday 2–5pm (closes 4pm from November to Easter), though the Loggia dei Cavalli is open on Sunday morning. Entrance to the main part of the church is free, but admission fees totalling €9.50 are charged for certain parts of the church. Large bags have to be left, free of charge, at nearby Calle San Basso 315/A. If you’re visiting the basilica in summer, get there early – by midday the queues are enormous.

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Some history

V E NI C E AND THE V E NE TO

According to the legend of St Mark’s annunciation, the Evangelist was moored in the lagoon, on his way to Rome, when an angel appeared and told him that his body would rest there. (The angel’s salute – Pax tibi, Marce evangelista meus – is the text cut into the book that the Lion of St Mark is always shown holding.) The founders of Venice, having persuaded themselves of the sacred ordination of their city, duly went about fulﬁlling the angelic prophecy, and in 828 the body of St Mark was stolen from Alexandria and brought here. Modelled on Constantinople’s Church of the Twelve Apostles, the shrine of St Mark was consecrated in 832, but in 976 both the church and the Palazzo Ducale were burnt down. The present basilica was ﬁnished in 1094 and embellished over the succeeding centuries. Every trophy that the doge stuck onto his church (this church was not the cathedral of Venice but the doge’s own chapel) was proof of Venice’s secular might and so of the spiritual power of St Mark. The exterior, narthex and Loggia dei Cavalli

| The City

Of the exterior features that can be seen easily from the ground, the Romanesque carvings of the central door demand the closest attention – especially the middle arch’s ﬁgures of the months and seasons and outer arch’s series of the trades of Venice. The carvings were begun around 1225 and ﬁnished in the early fourteenth century. Take a look also at the mosaic above the doorway on the far left – The Arrival of the Body of St Mark – which was made around 1260 (the only early mosaic left on the main facade) and includes the oldest known image of the basilica. From the Piazza you pass into the vestibule known as the narthex, which is decorated with thirteenth-century mosaics of Old Testament scenes on the domes and arches; The Madonna with Apostles and Evangelists, in the niches ﬂanking the main door, date from the 1060s and are the oldest mosaics in San Marco. A steep staircase goes from the church’s main door up to the Museo di San Marco and the Loggia dei Cavalli (daily 9.45am–4.45pm; €4). Apart from giving you an all-round view, the loggia is also the best place from which to inspect the Gothic carvings along the apex of the facade. The horses outside are replicas, the genuine articles having been removed inside. Thieved from the Hippodrome of Constantinople in 1204 during the Fourth Crusade, the horses are probably Roman works of the second century – the only such ancient group, or quadriga, to have survived. The interior

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With its undulating ﬂoor of twelfth-century patterned marble, its plates of eastern stone on the lower walls, and its four thousand square metres of mosaics covering every other inch of wall and vaulting, the interior of San Marco is the most opulent of any cathedral. One visit is not enough – there’s too much to take in at one go, and the shifting light reveals and hides parts of the decoration as the day progresses; try calling in for half an hour at the beginning and end of a couple of days. The majority of the mosaics were in position by the middle of the thirteenth century; some date from the fourteenth and ﬁfteenth centuries, and others were created as recently as the eighteenth century to replace damaged early sections. Some of the best are the following: on the west wall, above the door, Christ, the Virgin and St Mark; in the west dome, Pentecost; on the arch between the west and central domes, the Cruciﬁxion and Resurrection; in the central dome, Ascension; and in the east dome, Religion of Christ Foretold by the Prophets. From the south transept you can enter the Sanctuary (€2.50), where, behind the altar, you’ll ﬁnd the most precious of San Marco’s treasures – the Pala d’Oro (Golden Altar Panel). Commissioned in 976 in Constantinople, the Pala was enlarged, enriched and rearranged by Byzantine goldsmiths in 1105, then by Venetians in 1209

The Palazzo Ducale

Some history

The government of Venice was administered through an intricate system of elected committees and councils – a system designed to limit the power of any individual – but for the last ﬁve hundred years of the republic’s existence only those families listed in the register of noble births and marriages known as the Libro d’Oro (Golden Book) were entitled to play a part in the system. At the head of the network was the doge, the one politician to sit on all the major councils of state and the only one elected for life; he could be immensely inﬂuential in policy and appointments, and restrictions were accordingly imposed on his actions to reduce the possibility of his abusing that power – his letters were read by censors and he wasn’t permitted to receive foreign delegations alone. The privileges of the job far outweighed the inconveniences though, and men campaigned for years to increase their chances of election.

| The City

The Palazzo Ducale (daily: April–Oct 9am–7pm; Nov–March 9am–5pm; entrance with Museum Card – see box, p.274) was far more than the residence of the doge – it was the home of all of Venice’s governing councils, many of its courts, a sizeable number of its civil servants and even its prisons.

V E NI C E AND THE V E NE TO

(to incorporate some less cumbersome loot from the Fourth Crusade) and again (ﬁnally) in 1345. The completed screen holds 83 enamel plaques, 74 enamelled roundels, 38 chiselled ﬁgures, 300 sapphires, 300 emeralds, 400 garnets, 15 rubies, 1300 pearls and a couple of hundred other stones. In a corner of the south transept is the door of the Treasury (€3), a small but dazzling line-up of chalices, reliquaries, candelabra and so on – many from the great Constantinople robbery of 1204. Back in the main body of the church, there’s still more to see on the lower levels of the building. Don’t overlook the rood screen’s marble ﬁgures of The Virgin, St Mark and the Apostles, carved in 1394 by the dominant sculptors in Venice at that time, Jacobello and Pietro Paolo Dalle Masegne. The pulpits on each side of the screen were assembled in the early fourteenth century from miscellaneous panels (some from Constantinople); the new doge was presented to the people from the right-hand one. The tenth-century Icon of the Madonna of Nicopeia (in the chapel on the east side of the north transept) is the most revered religious image in Venice; it used to be one of the most revered in Constantinople.

The Porta della Carta and courtyard

Like the basilica, the Palazzo Ducale has been rebuilt many times since its foundation in the ﬁrst years of the ninth century. The principal entrance to the palazzo – the Porta della Carta – is one of the most ornate Gothic works in the city. It was

The Itinerari Segreti Go behind the scenes at the palace on one of the Itinerari Segreti del Palazzo Ducale, an intriguing guided tour through the warren of ofﬁces and passageways that interlocks with the public rooms of the building. It’s not cheap (€16, or €10 with a Venice Card, see p.265, or a Museum Pass or I Musei di Piazza San Marco/San Marco Plus card), but well worth the price, and covers entry to the whole palace. Tickets can be booked up to 48hr in advance on T041.520.9070; for visits on the next or same day go in person to the Palazzo Ducale ticket desk to check availability; the tour is held in English every day at 9.55am, 10.45am and 11.35am.

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commissioned in 1438 by Doge Francesco Fóscari from Bartolomeo and Giovanni Bon, but the ﬁgures of Fóscari and his lion are replicas – the originals were pulverized in 1797 as a favour to Napoleon. Fóscari’s head survived the hammering, however, and is on display inside. Tourists no longer enter the building by the Porta della Carta, but instead are herded through a doorway on the lagoon side. Once through the ticket hall you emerge in the courtyard, opposite the other end of the passageway into the Palazzo – the Arco Fóscari. The interior V E NI C E AND THE V E NE TO

| The City

The itinerary begins on the left side of the courtyard, where the ﬁnest of the capitals from the Palazzo’s exterior arcade are displayed in the Museo dell’Opera. Upstairs, the route takes you through the doge’s private apartments, then on to the Anticollegio, the room in which embassies had to wait before being admitted to the presence of the doge and his cabinet. This is one of the richest rooms in the Palazzo Ducale for paintings: four pictures by Tintoretto hang on the door walls, and facing the windows is Veronese’s Rape of Europa. The cycle of paintings on the ceiling of the adjoining Sala del Collegio is also by Veronese, and he features strongly again in the most stupendous room in the building – the Sala del Maggior Consiglio. Veronese’s ceiling panel of The Apotheosis of Venice is suspended over the dais from which the doge oversaw the sessions of the city’s general assembly; the backdrop is Tintoretto’s immense Paradiso, painted towards the end of his life, with the aid of his son, Domenico. At the opposite end there’s a curiosity: the frieze of portraits of the ﬁrst 76 doges (the series continues in the Sala dello Scrutinio – through the door at the far end) is interrupted by a painted black veil, marking the place where Doge Marin Falier would have been honoured had he not been beheaded for conspiring against the state in 1355. A couple of rooms later you descend to the underbelly of the Venetian state, crossing the Ponte dei Sospiri, or Bridge of Sighs, to the prisons. Before the construction of these cells in the early seventeenth century all prisoners were kept in the Piombi (the Leads), under the roof of the Palazzo Ducale, or in the Pozzi (the Wells) in the bottom two storeys; the new block was occupied mainly by petty criminals. The route ﬁnishes with a detour through the Pozzi, but if you want to see the Piombi, and the rooms in which the day-to-day administration of Venice took place, you have to go on one of the special “secret” tours (see box, p.277). The Campanile and Torre dell’Orologio

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Most of the landscape of the Piazza dates from the great period of urban renewal that began at the end of the ﬁfteenth century and went on for much of the following century. The one exception – excluding San Marco itself – is the Campanile (daily: Easter–June & Oct 9am–7pm; July–Sept 9am–9pm; Nov–Easter 9am–3.45pm; usually closed for 20 days after Christmas; €8), which began life as a lighthouse in the ninth century and was modiﬁed frequently up to the early sixteenth. The present structure is a reconstruction: the original tower collapsed on July 14, 1902 – a catastrophe that injured nobody, except a cat. The collapse reduced to rubble the Loggetta at the base of the campanile, but somehow it was pieced together again; built between 1537 and 1549 by Sansovino, it has served as a meeting-room for the nobility, a guardhouse and the place at which the state lottery was drawn. At 99 metres, the Campanile is the tallest structure in the city, and from the top (there is a lift) you can make out virtually every building, but not a single canal. The other tower in the Piazza, the Torre dell’Orologio (Clock Tower; daily 9am–3.30pm; tours in English Mon–Wed 10am & 11am, Thurs–Sun 1pm, 2pm & 3pm; €12 ticket includes the Museo Correr, and must be pre-booked, either at the

Correr, or on T 041.520.9070, or at W www.museiciviciveneziani.it), is ornately decorated, with an astronomical clock ﬁlling much of the facade and two bronze ﬁgures – popularly known as the Moors – striking the bell on the roof. The tower was built between 1496 and 1506, while the clock mechanism dates from 1753. If you’re in Venice for Epiphany or Ascension Day, you’ll witness the clock’s star turn – on the hour the Magi, led by an angel, troop out and bow to the ﬁgure of the Madonna. After a long restoration, the tower is now open to the public; fascinating hour-long tours take you up the steep narrow staircase, stopping on each of the ﬁve ﬂoors to admire the clock’s complex workings. The Procuratie and Museo Correr V E NI C E AND THE V E NE TO

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Away to the left of the Torre dell’Orologio stretches the Procuratie Vecchie; begun around 1500 by Codussi, this block housed the offices of the Procurators of St Mark, a committee of nine men whose responsibilities included the upkeep of the basilica and other public buildings. A century or so after taking possession, the procurators were moved to the opposite side of the Piazza, into the Procuratie Nuove. Napoleon converted these apartments and offices into a royal palace and then, having realized that the building lacked a ballroom, remedied the deﬁciency by smashing down the church of San Geminiano to connect the two procuratie with a new wing for dancing. Generally known as the Ala Napoleonica, this short side of the Piazza is partly occupied by the Museo Correr (daily: April–Oct 10am–7pm; Nov–March 10am–5pm; entrance with Museum Card – see box, p.274), an immense tripledecker museum with a vast historical collection of coins, weapons, regalia, prints, paintings and miscellanea. Much of this is heavy going unless you have an intense interest in Venetian history, though there’s an appealing exhibition of Venetian applied arts, and one show-stopping item in the form of the original blocks and a print of Jacopo de’ Barbari’s astonishing aerial view of Venice, engraved in 1500. The Quadreria on the second ﬂoor is no rival for the Accademia’s collection, but it does set out clearly the evolution of painting in Venice from the thirteenth century to around 1500, and it contains some gems – the most famous being the Carpaccio picture usually known as The Courtesans, although its subjects are really a couple of bored-looking bourgeois ladies. The section of the Correr devoted to the Museo del Risorgimento is largely given over to the 1848 rebellion against the Austrians. Accessed from within the Correr, the Museo Archeologico is a somewhat scrappy museum, with cases of Roman coins and gems, fragments of sarcophagi and inscriptions, headless statues and bodiless heads interspersed with the odd Bronze Age, Egyptian or Assyrian relic. From the archeological museum you pass into the hall of the Libreria Sansoviniana, described by Palladio as “perhaps the richest and most ornate building to be created since the times of ancient Greece and Rome”. Paintings by Veronese, Tintoretto, Andrea Schiavone and others cover the walls and ceiling, gazing down on selected volumes from the library’s immense collection; Titian’s Allegory of Wisdom occupies the central panel of the ceiling of the anteroom, beyond which lies the intended approach to the library, a magniﬁcent staircase encrusted with stuccowork by Vittoria. The Piazzetta

The Piazzetta – the open space between San Marco and the waterfront pavement known as the Molo – was the area where the politicians used to gather before meetings. Facing the Palazzo Ducale is Sansovino’s masterpiece, the Libreria Sansoviniana (see above), which is attached to his ﬁrst major building in Venice, the Zecca (Mint), built between 1537 and 1545 on the site of the thirteenth-century

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mint. By the beginning of the ﬁfteenth century the city’s prosperity was such that the Venetian coinage was in use in every European exchange, and the doge could with some justiﬁcation call Venice “the mistress of all the gold in Christendom”. The Piazzetta’s two columns were brought here from the Levant at the end of the twelfth century, in company with a third, which fell off the barge and still lies somewhere just off the Molo. The ﬁgures perched on top are St Theodore (the original is in the Palazzo Ducale), patron saint of Venice when it was dependent on Byzantium, and a Chimera, customized to look like the Lion of St Mark. Public executions were carried out between the columns, the techniques employed ranging from straightforward hanging to burial alive, head downwards. Superstitious Venetians avoid passing between them. North of the Piazza

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The Mercerie, a chain of streets that starts under the Torre dell’Orologio and ﬁnishes at the Campo San Bartolomeo, is the most direct route between San Marco and the Rialto Bridge, and has always been the main land thoroughfare of the city and a prime site for its shopkeepers. For those immune to the charms of window-shopping there’s little reason to linger until you reach the church of San Salvador ( June–Aug Mon–Sat 9am–noon & 4–7pm, Sun 4–7pm; Sept–May Mon–Sat 9am–noon & 3–7.15pm, Sun 3–7.15pm), an early sixteenth-century church cleverly planned in the form of three Greek crosses placed end to end. It has a couple of late Titian paintings – an altarpiece of the Transﬁguration (1560) and an Annunciation (1566), whose awkward angel is often blamed on the great man’s assistants. The end of the south transept is ﬁlled by the tomb of Caterina Cornaro (see p.338). The Campo San Bartolomeo, close to the foot of the Rialto Bridge, is at its best in the evening, when it’s as packed as any bar in town. If the crush gets too much, you can retire to the nearby Campo San Luca, another focus of after-work gatherings but not as much of a pressure-cooker as San Bartolomeo. Beyond Campo San Luca is Campo Manin, on the south side of which is a sign for the spiral staircase known as the Scala del Bovolo (bovolo means “snail shell” in Venetian dialect), a piece of ﬂamboyant engineering dating from around 1500 (closed for restoration; probable opening times Mon–Fri 9am–6pm, Sat 9am–2pm). The Museo Fortuny (Wed–Mon 10am–6pm; €9) is also close at hand, similarly tucked away in a spot you’d never accidentally pass. In addition to making his famous silk dresses, which were said to be ﬁne enough to be threaded through a wedding ring, Mariano Fortuny (1871–1949) was a painter, architect, engraver, photographer and sculptor. The palazzo in which the museum is housed is so fragile that only 75 people are allowed in at a time, so you may have to queue in summer. West of the Piazza

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Although Calle Larga XXII Marzo has the city’s highest concentration of fashionable shops, the area to the west of the Piazza is less frenetic than the streets to the north. After leaving the Piazza, you soon reach the hypnotically ugly San Moisè (Mon–Sat 9.30am–12.30pm). The facade sculpture, featuring a species of camel unknown to zoology, was created in 1668 by Heinrich Meyring. Halfway along the Calle Larga XXII Marzo, on the right, is the Calle del Sartor da Veste, which takes you over a canal and into the Campo San Fantin, where the Renaissance church of San Fantin has a graceful domed apse by Sansovino. Across the campo is Venice’s largest and oldest theatre, La Fenice, opened in December 1792, rebuilt in 1836 after the place had been wrecked by ﬁre, but devastated by yet another ﬁre on the night of January 29, 1996. Tours of the magniﬁcently restored interior with an audioguide (45min; €7) can be booked at the box office.

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Back on the main road to the Accademia, another very odd church awaits – Santa Maria del Giglio, otherwise known as Santa Maria Zobenigo (Mon–Sat 10am–5pm; €3 or Chorus Pass – see box, p.274). You can stare at this all day and still not ﬁnd a single Christian image: the statues are of the ﬁve Barbaro brothers who ﬁnanced the rebuilding of the church in 1678; Virtue, Honour, Fame and Wisdom hover respectfully around them; and the maps in relief depict the towns the brothers graced during their military and diplomatic careers. The interior, full to bursting with devotional sculptures and pictures (notably The Evangelists by Tintoretto), overcompensates for the impiety of the exterior. The tilting campanile that soon looms into view over the vapid church of San Maurizio belongs to Santo Stefano, which stands at the end of the next campo – the spacious Campo Santo Stefano. The church of Santo Stefano (Mon–Sat 10am–5pm) dates from the thirteenth century, but was rebuilt in the fourteenth and altered again in the ﬁrst half of the ﬁfteenth; the Gothic doorway and the ship’s keel roof both belong to this last phase. The best paintings are in the sacristy (€3 or Chorus Pass – see p.274): The Agony in the Garden, The Last Supper and The Washing of the Disciples’ Feet, all late works by Tintoretto. A short distance to the north of Campo Santo Stefano lies the gigantic Palazzo Grassi (W www.palazzograssi.it), which in 2005 was acquired by a consortium headed by François Pinault, France’s pre-eminent collector of modern art. A couple of years later, Pinault acquired the Dogana di Mare (see p.283), which has become the main showcase for his vast collection (he owns more than 2500 pieces), while the Grassi stages immense art shows that also draw heavily on works owned by him. As if that weren’t enough, he has also undertaken to restore the small eighteenth-century theatre behind the Grassi, so that it can be used for concerts, lectures and so forth.

Dorsoduro Some of the ﬁnest architecture in Venice, both domestic and public, is to be found in the sestiere of Dorsoduro, a situation partly attributable to the stability of its sandbanks – Dorsoduro means “hard back”. Yet for all its attractions, not many visitors wander off the strip that runs between the main sights of the area – Ca’ Rezzonico, the Accademia, the Salute and the Punta della Dogana. The Accademia

The Galleria dell’Accademia (Mon 8.15am–2pm, Tues–Sun 8.15am–7.15pm; €6.50) is one of the ﬁnest specialist collections of European art, following the history of Venetian painting from the fourteenth to the eighteenth centuries. With San Marco and the Palazzo Ducale, the Accademia completes the triad of obligatory tourist sights in Venice, but admissions are presently restricted to batches of 300 people at a time, so queues can be huge in high season. This situation will change when the gallery takes over the renovated ground-ﬂoor and basement rooms of the convent buildings, an expansion which has entailed moving the art college to the nearby Casa degli Incurabili. When this huge rebuilding project is completed, the Accademia will have space not just for the scores of paintings currently held in storage, but also for large-scale one-off exhibitions. The upperﬂoor galleries of the new Accademia will also have a somewhat different layout than the one given below. The early Renaissance

The gallery is laid out in a roughly chronological succession of rooms going anticlockwise. The ﬁrst room at the top of the stairs is the ﬁfteenth-century assembly room of the Scuola della Carità, whose church and convent the gallery

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now occupies. This has works by the earliest known Venetian painters, of whom Paolo Veneziano (from the ﬁrst half of the fourteenth century) and his follower Lorenzo Veneziano are the most absorbing. Room 2 moves on to works from the late ﬁfteenth and early sixteenth centuries, with large altarpieces that are contemplative even when the scenes are far from calm. Carpaccio’s strange and gruesome Cruciﬁxion and Gloriﬁcation of the Ten Thousand Martyrs of Mount Ararat (painted around 1512) and his Presentation of Jesus in the Temple accompany works by Giovanni Bellini and Cima da Conegliano. In the next room you can observe the emergence of the characteristically Venetian treatment of colour, but there’s nothing here as exciting as the small paintings in rooms 4 and 5, a high point of the collection. As well as an exquisite St George by Mantegna and a series of Giovanni Bellini Madonnas, this section contains Giorgione’s enigmatic Tempest. The High Renaissance

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Rooms 6 to 8 introduce some of the heavyweights of High-Renaissance Venetian painting: Tintoretto, Titian and Lorenzo Lotto. Room 10 is dominated by epic productions, and an entire wall is ﬁlled by Paolo Veronese’s Christ in the House of Levi. Originally called The Last Supper, this picture provoked a stern reaction from the Court of the Holy Office: “Does it appear to you ﬁtting that at our Lord’s last supper you should paint buffoons, drunkards, Germans, dwarfs, and similar indecencies?” Veronese responded simply by changing the title, which made the work acceptable. The pieces by Tintoretto in here include three legends of St Mark: St Mark Rescues a Slave (1548), which was the painting that made his reputation, The Theft of the Body of St Mark and St Mark Saves a Saracen (both 1560s). All of these show Tintoretto’s love of energy and drama – from the physical or psychological drama of the subject matter to the technical energy of his brush strokes, perception of colour and use of light. Opposite is Titian’s last painting, a Pietà intended for his own tomb in the Frari. The eighteenth century

Room 11 contains a number of works by Giambattista Tiepolo, the most prominent painter of eighteenth-century Venice, including two shaped fragments rescued from the Scalzi (1743–45) and The Translation of the Holy House of Loreto (1743), a sketch for the same ceiling. There’s also more from Tintoretto; the Madonna dei Tesorieri (1566) shows facial types still found in Venice today. The following stretch of seventeenth- and eighteenth-century paintings isn’t too enthralling – the highlights are portraits by Rosalba Carriera and interiors by Pietro Longhi in room 17. The Vivarinis, the Bellinis and Carpaccio

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Around the corner and to the right are more works from the ﬁfteenth and early sixteenth centuries. Alvise Vivarini’s Santa Chiara is outstanding. Giovanni Bellini is represented by four triptychs painted, with workshop assistance, in the 1460s. The extraordinary Blessed Lorenzo Giustinian is by his brother, Gentile; one of the oldest surviving Venetian canvases, it was possibly used as a standard in processions, which would account for its state. The magniﬁcent cycle of pictures painted around 1500 for the Scuola di San Giovanni Evangelista, mainly illustrating the miracles of the Relic of the Cross, is displayed in room 20, off a corridor to the left. All of the paintings are replete with fascinating local details, but particularly rich are Carpaccio’s Cure of a Lunatic and Gentile Bellini’s Recovery of the Relic from the Canale di San Lorenzo and Procession of the Relic in the Piazza. The next room contains a complete cycle of pictures by

Carpaccio illustrating the Story of St Ursula, painted for the Scuola di Sant’Orsola at San Zanipolo (1490–94). Restored in the mid-1980s, the paintings form one of Italy’s most unforgettable groups. It tells the legend of Ursula, a Breton princess, who undertook a pilgrimage with a company of 11,000 virgins that ended with a massacre by the Huns. Finally, in room 24 (the former hostel of the Scuola), there’s Titian’s Presentation of the Virgin (dating from 1539). It was painted for the place where it hangs, as was the triptych by Antonio Vivarini and Giovanni d’Alemagna (1446). The Guggenheim, the Salute and the Punta della Dogana V E NI C E AND THE V E NE TO

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Within ﬁve minutes’ walk of the Accademia, east beyond the Campo San Vio, is the unﬁnished Palazzo Venier dei Leoni, home of Peggy Guggenheim for thirty years until her death in 1979 and now the base for the Guggenheim Collection (Wed–Mon 10am–6pm; June & July closes 10pm Sat; €12). Her private collection is a quirky choice of mainly excellent pieces from her favourite modernist movements and artists. Prime pieces include Brancusi’s Bird in Space and Maestra, De Chirico’s Red Tower and Nostalgia of the Poet, Max Ernst’s Robing of the Bride, sculpture by Laurens and Lipchitz and paintings by Malevich. Continuing along the line of the Canal Grande, you come to the massive Santa Maria della Salute, better known simply as the Salute (daily 9am–noon & 3–5.30pm). It was built to fulﬁl a Senate decree of October 22, 1630, that a new church would be dedicated to Mary if the city were delivered from the plague that was ravaging it – an outbreak that killed about a third of the population. Work began in 1631 on Baldassare Longhena’s design and the church was consecrated in 1687. On November 21, for the Festa della Salute (salute meaning “health”), a pontoon bridge is built across the Canal Grande to the steps of the church. In 1656, a hoard of Titian paintings from the suppressed church of Santo Spirito was moved here and is now housed in the sacristy (€2). The most prominent of these is the altarpiece St Mark Enthroned with Saints Cosmas, Damian, Sebastian and Rocco (the plague saints). The Marriage at Cana, with its dramatic lighting and perspective, is by Tintoretto (1561), and features likenesses of a number of the artist’s friends. On the point where the Canal Grande and the Giudecca canal merge stands the huge Dogana di Mare (Customs House), another late seventeenth-century building, which in 2009 reopened as the Punta della Dogana exhibition space (Wed–Mon 10am–7pm; €15). Financed by François Pinault, the co-owner of Palazzo Grassi, the Dogana – like the Grassi – has been beautifully renovated to designs by Tadao Ando, and is unquestionably one of the world’s great showcases for contemporary art. The entry charge is savage, but well over one hundred works from Pinault’s collection are usually on display here at any one time, and he has invested in most of the really big names of the current art scene, so you can expect to see pieces by the likes of Cindy Sherman, Luc Tuymans, Cy Twombly, Thomas Schütte, Maurizio Cattelan, Jeff Koons, the Chapman brothers and Marlene Dumas, to name but a few. Along the Záttere to San Sebastiano

Stretching along the Dorsoduro’s southern waterfront from the Punta della Dogana to the Stazione Maríttima, the Záttere (“Rafts”) was originally the place where most of the bulky goods coming into Venice were unloaded, and is now a popular place for a Sunday stroll. Its principal sight is the church of Santa Maria del Rosario, invariably known as the Gesuati (Mon–Sat 10am–5pm; €3, or

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Chorus Pass – see box, p.274); it’s worth a stop for its paintings by Giambattista Tiepolo: three ceiling panels showing scenes from the life of St Dominic, and an altarpiece, Madonna with Dominican Saints. A diversion to the right straight after the Gesuati takes you past the squero di San Trovaso, one of the very few gondola workshops left in Venice, and on to the church of San Trovaso (Mon–Sat 2.30–5.30pm). Its paintings include a ﬁne pair by Tintoretto (The Temptation of St Anthony and The Last Supper), and two large scenes that were begun by Tintoretto and completed by his son and other assistants: The Adoration of the Magi and The Expulsion from the Temple. The church of San Sebastiano (Mon–Sat 10am–5pm; €3, or Chorus Pass – see box, p.274), by the Stazione Maríttima, was built between 1505 and 1545 and was the parish church of Paolo Veronese, who provided most of its paintings and is buried here. He was ﬁrst brought in to paint the ceiling of the sacristy with a Coronation of the Virgin and the Four Evangelists, followed by the Scenes from the Life of St Esther on the ceiling of the church. He then painted the dome of the chancel (since destroyed), and with the help of his brother, Benedetto, moved on to the walls of the church and the nuns’ choir. The paintings around the high altar and the organ came last, being painted in the 1560s. Ca’ Rezzonico and Ca’ Fóscari

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From San Sebastiano it’s a straightforward walk back towards the Canal Grande along Calle Avogaria and Calle Lunga San Barnaba, a route that deposits you in Campo San Barnaba, just yards from the Ca’ Rezzonico, now the Museo del Settecento Veneziano (Wed–Mon: April–Oct 10am–6pm; Nov–March 10am–5pm; €7). Having acquired the Ca’ Rezzonico in 1934, the comune of Venice set about furnishing and decorating it with eighteenth-century items and materials (or their closest modern equivalent), so giving the place the feel of a wellappointed house. In the collection, the plentiful and outlandish carvings by Andrea Brustolon are as likely to elicit revulsion as admiration. As for the paintings, the highlights are Pietro Longhi’s affectionate illustrations of Venice social life and pictures by Giambattista and Giandomenico Tiepolo – the latter’s frescoes of clowns and carnival scenes are his best-known images. Immediately north of Ca’ Rezzonico, the cluster of Gothic palaces fronting the Canal Grande constitutes one of the city’s architectural glories. Built in 1435, the Ca’ Fóscari, which Ruskin thought “the noblest example in Venice” of late Gothic, was the home of Doge Francesco Fóscari, and is part of the university. Adjoining Ca’ Foscari are the Palazzi Giustinian, a pair of palaces built in the mid-ﬁfteenth century for two brothers who wanted attached but self-contained houses. One of the palazzi was Wagner’s home for a while. Campo Santa Margherita and around

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The nearby Campo Santa Margherita is the largest square on this side of the Canal Grande, but it’s a modest one, with no grandiose architecture. This is the social heart of Dorsoduro, and its bars and cafés draw much of their custom from the nearby university. The Scuola Grande dei Carmini (daily 11am–4pm; €5), in the southwest corner, is a showcase for Giambattista Tiepolo, whose ceiling paintings in the main upstairs hall from the early 1740s centre on the panel The Virgin in Glory. To the north of the campo stands the church of San Pantaleone (Mon–Sat 10am– noon & 4–6pm), which possesses a Coronation of the Virgin by Antonio Vivarini and Giovanni d’Alemagna (in the chapel to the left of the chancel) and Veronese’s last painting, San Pantaleone Healing a Boy (second chapel on right). The church also boasts the most melodramatic ceiling in the city: The Martyrdom and Apotheosis of San Pantaleone, which kept Gian Antonio Fumiani busy from 1680 to 1704.

Venice in flood

San Polo and Santa Croce

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Two sestieri are covered in this section: San Polo, which extends from the Rialto market to the Frari area; and Santa Croce, a far less sight-heavy district which lies to the north of San Polo and reaches right across to Piazzale Roma. There are two main routes through the district – one runs between the Rialto and the Scalzi Bridge, the other takes you in the opposite direction from the Rialto, down towards the Accademia. Virtually all the essential sights lie around these two routes.

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Called the acqua alta, the winter ﬂooding of Venice is caused by a combination of seasonal tides, ﬂuctuations in atmospheric pressure in the Adriatic and persistent southeasterly winds, and has always been a feature of Venetian life. In recent years, however, it has been getting worse, with more than a hundred ﬂoods a year – though most of these are minor. If the siren sounds, you can expect a serious ﬂood in three to four hours’ time. A system of plank walkways is immediately set up in the low-lying parts of the city – most boat stops have maps of where those walkways run. The usual high-tide season is September to April, with the worst ﬂooding between November and February. A grand plan is being implemented to protect the city, involving building a tidal barrier across the three entrances to the lagoon. Nicknamed Moisè (Moses), the barrier aroused considerable opposition, both to its cost and to its potential environmental impact. However, mounting concern about global warming gave the matter more urgency and has led to widespread acceptance. More than twenty years after the ﬁrst plan was submitted, work ﬁnally began on the barrier in 2003 and is due to be completed in 2012.

The Rialto Bridge

The famous Ponte di Rialto (Rialto Bridge) is the bustling link between San Marco and San Polo, standing at a bend in the Canal Grande, lined with shops and constantly thronged with locals and tourists. The current structure superseded a succession of wooden structures – one of Carpaccio’s Miracles of the True Cross, in the Accademia, shows what one of the old drawbridges looked like. The decision to construct a stone bridge was taken in 1524, and the job was awarded to the aptly named Antonio da Ponte, whose top-heavy design was described by Edward Gibbon as “a ﬁne bridge, spoilt by two rows of houses upon it”. Until 1854, when the ﬁrst Accademia Bridge was built, this was the only point at which the Canal Grande could be crossed on foot. From the Rialto to Ca’ Pésaro

West of the Rialto Bridge, the relatively stable building land drew some of the earliest lagoon settlers to the high bank (rivo alto) that was to develop into the Rialto district. While the political centre of the new city grew up around San Marco, the Rialto became the commercial zone. It was through the markets of the Rialto that Venice earned its reputation as the bazaar of Europe. Virtually anything could be bought or sold here: Italian fabrics, precious stones, silver plate and gold jewellery, and spices and dyes from the Orient. After a ﬁre destroyed everything in the area except the church in 1514, work began on the Fabbriche Vecchie (the arcaded buildings along the Ruga degli Oreﬁci and around the Campo San Giacomo); Sansovino’s Fabbriche Nuove (running along the Canal Grande from Campo Cesare Battisti) followed about thirty years later.

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Today’s Rialto market may be tamer than that of Venice at its peak, but it’s still one of the liveliest spots in the city, and one of the few places where it’s possible to stand in a crowd and hear nothing but Italian spoken. There’s a shoal of mementosellers by the church and along the Ruga degli Oreﬁci; the market proper lies between them and the Canal Grande – mainly fruit stalls around the Campo San Giacomo, vegetable stalls and butchers’ shops as you go through to the Campo Battisti, after which you come to the ﬁsh market. A popular Venetian legend asserts that the city was founded on Friday, March 25, 421 AD at exactly midday; from the same legend derives the claim that the church of San Giacomo di Rialto (Mon–Sat 9.30am–noon & 4–6pm) was founded in that year, and is thus the oldest church in Venice. Whether it is or not, what is not disputed is that the church was rebuilt in 1071 and that parts of the present structure date from then. The church of San Cassiano (daily 9am–noon & 5–7pm) is a building you’re bound to pass as you wander west from the Rialto. Don’t be put off by its barn-like appearance: it contains three paintings by Tintoretto, The Resurrection, The Descent into Limbo and The Cruciﬁxion. The last of these is one of the greatest pictures in Venice, a startling composition dominated not by the cross but by the ladder on which the executioners stand. Nearby, and signposted from San Cassiano, is the Ca’ Pésaro, in which you’ll ﬁnd both the Galleria d’Arte Moderna and Museo d’Arte Orientale (Tues– Sun: April–Oct 10am–6pm; Nov–March 10am–5pm; €5.50, or Museum Pass, see box, p.274, or Venice Card, see box, p.265). Pieces bought from the Biennale make up the core of the modern art collection, with Italian artists predominating; it’s not one of Europe’s best. The oriental galleries display a jumble of lacquer work, armour, screens and weaponry. Campo San Polo

The largest square in Venice after the Piazza, the Campo San Polo used to be the city’s favourite bullﬁghting arena as well as the site of weekly markets and occasional fairs. Nowadays it’s a combination of outdoor social centre, summertime outdoor cinema and children’s sports stadium. The bleak interior of San Polo church (Mon–Sat 10am–5pm; €3, or Chorus Pass – see box, p.274) should be visited for The Last Supper by Tintoretto and Giandomenico Tiepolo’s The Stations of the Cross, a series painted when the artist was only twenty. The sober piety of these pictures will come as a surprise if you’ve been to the Ca’ Rezzonico, though it often seems that his interest was less in the central drama than in the portraits that occupy the edges of the stage. The Frari

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The Franciscans were granted a large plot of land near San Polo in about 1250, not long after the death of St Francis. Replacement of their ﬁrst church by the present Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari – more generally known simply as the Frari (Mon–Sat 9am–6pm, Sun 1–6pm; €3, or Chorus Pass – see p.274) – began in the mid-fourteenth century and took over a hundred years. This mountain of brick is not an immediately attractive building but its collection of paintings, sculptures and monuments makes it a guaranteed highlight of anyone’s visit. Wherever you stand in the Frari, you’ll be facing something that rewards your attention. Apart from the Salute and the Accademia, the Frari is the only building in Venice with more than a single signiﬁcant work by Titian. One of these – The Assumption, painted in 1518 – you will see almost immediately as you look towards the altar, a swirling, dazzling piece of compositional bravura for which there was no precedent in Venetian art. The other Titian masterpiece here, the Madonna di

The Scuola Grande di San Rocco and around

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At the rear of the Frari is a place you should on no account miss: the Scuola Grande di San Rocco (daily 9.30am–5.30pm; €7). St Rocco (St Roch) was attributed with the power to cure the plague and other serious illnesses, so when the saint’s body was brought to Venice in 1485, this scuola began to proﬁt from donations from people wishing to invoke his aid. In 1515 it commissioned this prestigious building, and soon after its completion in 1560, work began on the decorative scheme that was to put the Scuola’s rivals in the shade – a cycle of more than ﬁfty major paintings by Tintoretto.

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Ca’ Pésaro, was equally innovative in its displacement of the ﬁgure of the Virgin from the centre of the picture. Two funerary monuments embodying the emergence in Venice of Renaissance sculptural technique ﬂank the Titian Assumption: on the left is the tomb of Doge Niccolò Tron, by Antonio Rizzo and assistants, dating from 1476; on the right, the more chaotic tomb of Doge Francesco Fóscari, carved by Antonio and Paolo Bregno shortly after Fóscari’s death in 1457. Head through the door in the right transept for the sacristy, where on the altar stands a picture that alone would justify a visit to the Frari – the Madonna and Child with Saints Nicholas of Bari, Peter, Mark and Benedict, painted in 1488 by Giovanni Bellini. In the words of Henry James, “It is as solemn as it is gorgeous and as simple as it is deep.” Two massive tombs take up much of the nave. One is the bombastic monument to Titian, built in the mid-nineteenth century on the supposed site of his grave. Opposite is a tomb of similarly pompous dimensions but of redeeming peculiarity: the mausoleum of Canova, erected in 1827 by his pupils, following a design he had made for the tomb of Titian.

The Tintoretto paintings

To appreciate the evolution of Tintoretto’s art you have to begin in the smaller room on the upper storey, the Sala dell’Albergo. In 1564 the Scuola held a competition for the contract to paint its ﬁrst picture. Tintoretto won the contest by rigging up a ﬁnished painting in the very place for which the winning picture was destined – the centre of the ceiling. The protests of his rivals, who had simply submitted sketches, were to no avail. Virtually an entire wall of the Sala is occupied by the stupendous Cruciﬁxion. As Ruskin’s loquacious guide to the cycle concludes: “I must leave this picture to work its will on the spectator; for it is beyond all analysis, and above all praise.” In the main upper hall, the Old Testament subjects depicted in the three large panels of the ceiling, with their references to the alleviation of physical suffering, are coded declarations of the Scuola’s charitable activities: Moses Striking Water from the Rock, The Miracle of the Brazen Serpent and The Miraculous Fall of Manna. The paintings around the walls, all based on the New Testament, are an amazing feat of sustained inventiveness, in which every convention of perspective, lighting, colour and even anatomy is deﬁed. A caricature of the irascible Tintoretto (with a jarful of paint brushes) is incorporated into the trompe-l’oeil carvings by the seventeenthcentury sculptor Francesco Pianta. Displayed on easels, either in the sala or main hall – they are often moved – are a handful of paintings that are easy to miss, given the competition. Christ Carrying the Cross is now generally thought to be an early Titian, though some still maintain Giorgione’s authorship; Titian’s Annunciation is similarly inﬂuenced by the earlier master. Two early Tiepolo paintings, also on easels, relieve the eyes with a wash of airy colour.

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The paintings on the ground ﬂoor were created between 1583 and 1587, when Tintoretto was in his late 60s. The turbulent Annunciation is one of the most arresting images of the event ever painted, and there are few Renaissance landscapes to match those of The Flight into Egypt and the small paintings of St Mary Magdalen and St Mary of Egypt. The church of San Rocco

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Yet more paintings by Tintoretto adorn the neighbouring church of San Rocco (daily 9.30am–5.30pm). On the south wall of the nave you’ll ﬁnd St Roch Taken to Prison, and below it The Pool of Bethesda – though only the latter is deﬁnitely by Tintoretto. In the chancel are four large works, all of them difficult to see properly: the best are St Roch Curing the Plague Victims (lower right) and St Roch in Prison (lower left).

Cannaregio In the northernmost section of Venice, CANNAREGIO, you can go from the bustle of the train station and the horrible Lista di Spagna to areas which, although no longer rural (Cannaregio comes from canna, meaning “reed”) are still among the quietest and prettiest parts of the whole city. The district also has the dubious distinction of containing the world’s original ghetto. The station area

Right next to the station stands the Scalzi, or Santa Maria di Nazareth (daily 7am–noon & 4–7pm; free). Built by Baldassare Longhena in the 1670s for the barefoot (scalzi) order of Carmelites, the church has frescoes by Giambattista Tiepolo in the ﬁrst chapel on the left and the second on the right, but his major work on the ceiling was destroyed in 1915 by an Austrian bomb. A couple of fragments, now in the Accademia, were all that was salvaged. The Lista di Spagna, running northeast from the train station, takes its name from the Spanish embassy, which used to be at no. 168. The street is now completely given over to the tourist trade, with shops and stalls, bars, restaurants and hotels all competing for your money. Whether you are hunting for trinkets, food or a bed, you’ll ﬁnd better elsewhere. The church of San Geremia (Mon–Sat 8am–noon & 3.30–6.30pm, Sun 9.15am–12.15pm & 5.30–6.30pm) at the end of the street is chieﬂy notable for being the present home of St Lucy, martyred in Siracuse in 304. Lucy tore her own eyes out after an unwanted suitor kept complimenting her on their beauty, and hence became the patron saint of eyesight: the glass case on the high altar contains her desiccated body. Architecturally, the church’s main point of interest is the twelfth-century campanile, one of the oldest in the city. The ballroom of the Palazzo Labia, next door to the church, contains frescoes by Giambattista Tiepolo and his assistants (1745–50), illustrating the story of Antony and Cleopatra. The present owners, RAI (the state radio and TV service), usually allow public access for a few hours each week, but the palazzo is currently in restauro. Its facade overlooks the Canale di Cannaregio, once the main entrance to Venice before the road and rail bridges were built. Walk along it to get to the church of San Giobbe (Mon–Sat 10am–1.15pm; €3, or Chorus Pass – see box, p.274). Job’s physical suffering in the Bible made him particularly popular with the Venetians, who regularly experienced malaria, plague and a plethora of damp-related diseases. The church was begun in the 1450s by Antonio Gambello, but the most interesting parts are its exquisitely carved early Renaissance doorway and chancel – begun in 1471, they were the ﬁrst Venetian projects of Pietro Lombardo.

The Ghetto

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The Venetian Ghetto was, in a sense, the ﬁrst in the world: the word comes from the Venetian dialect getar (to found), or geto (foundry), which is what this area was until 1390. In 1516 all the city’s Jews were ordered to move to the island of the Ghetto Nuovo. Distinctive badges or caps had to be worn by all Jews, and there were various economic and social restraints on the community, although oppression was lighter in Venice than in most other parts of Europe (it was one of the few states to tolerate the Jewish religion). When Jews were expelled en masse from Spain in 1492 and Portugal in 1497, many came here. Each wave of Jewish immigrants established its own synagogue and four of the most signiﬁcant – the ornate Scola Levantina (founded in 1538), the Scola Spagnola, the beautiful Scola al Canton and the Scola Italiana – can be viewed in a fascinating hourly tour of the area organized by the Jewish Museum in Campo Ghetto Nuovo (daily except Sat & Jewish hols: June–Sept 10am–7pm; Oct–May 10am–5.30pm; €3, or free with tour, which costs €8.50; tours in English on the half-hour; last tour June–Sept 5.30pm, Oct–May 4.30pm); the collection in the museum itself consists mainly of silverware, embroidery and other liturgical objects. The Jewish population grew to about ﬁve thousand and, even though they were allowed to spread into the Ghetto Vecchio (called the “old ghetto” because that’s where the foundries used to be) and the Ghetto Nuovissimo, there was gross overcrowding. As the Ghetto buildings were not allowed to be more than a third higher than the surrounding houses, the result was a stack of low-ceilinged storeys – seven is the usual number. Napoleon removed the gates of the Ghetto in 1797 but Venice’s Jews didn’t achieve equal rights with other Venetians until Uniﬁcation with Italy in 1866. In a corner of the campo a series of reliefs by Arbit Blatas commemorates the two hundred Venetian Jews deported to the death camps during World War II – their names and ages are inscribed on a separate memorial entitled The Last Train. Today Venice’s Jewish population of around six hundred is spread all over the city, but the Ghetto remains the centre of the community. Sant’Alvise and Madonna dell’Orto

A few minutes north of the Ghetto stands the church of Sant’Alvise (Mon–Sat 1.45–5pm; €3, or Chorus Pass – see box, p.274). Commissioned by Antonia Venier, daughter of Doge Antonio Venier, after the saint appeared to her in a vision in 1388, the church has one outstanding picture, The Road to Calvary by Giambattista Tiepolo, painted in 1743. His Crown of Thorns and Flagellation, slightly earlier works, are on the right-hand wall of the nave. A circuitous stroll eastwards brings you to the Gothic church of Madonna dell’Orto (Mon–Sat 10am–5pm; €3, or Chorus Pass – see box, p.274). Dedicated to St Christopher in about 1350, the church was renamed after a large stone Madonna by Giovanni de’ Santi, found discarded in a local vegetable garden (orto), began to work miracles. Brought inside the church in 1377, the ﬁgure can still be seen (now heavily restored) in the Cappella di San Mauro through a door at the front end of the right aisle. This was Tintoretto’s parish church – he’s buried in the chapel to the right of the high altar – and there are a number of his paintings here, notably the colossal Making of the Golden Calf and The Last Judgement, which ﬂank the main altar. Ca’ d’Oro and the Gesuiti

Back towards the Canal Grande the Strada Nova was carved through the houses in 1871–72 and is now a bustling shopping street. Nearly halfway along is the inconspicuous calle named after, and leading to, the Ca’ d’Oro – a Gothic palace housing

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the Galleria Giorgio Franchetti (Mon 8.15am–2pm, Tues–Sat 8.15am–7.15pm; €5). Its main attraction is the St Sebastian painted by Mantegna shortly before his death in 1506, although the collection of sculpture has more outstanding items, notably Tullio Lombardo’s beautifully carved Young Couple, and superb portrait busts by Bernini and Alessandro Vittoria. At the eastern end of the Strada Nova you come to the Campo dei Santi Apostoli, a general meeting-point and crossroads. Just inland from the Fondamente Nove, at the northern edge of this area, is the Gesuiti church, as Santa Maria Assunta is familiarly known (daily 10am–noon & 4–6pm). The Jesuits began work on their church in 1714, and it took ﬁfteen years to inlay the marble walls of the interior and carve its marble “curtains”, with a result that is jaw-droppingly impressive even if you hate Baroque architecture. The major work of art here is the Martyrdom of St Lawrence by Titian, on the ﬁrst altar on the left. The Miracoli

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Sitting on the lip of a canal in the southeastern corner of Cannaregio you’ll ﬁnd the exquisite marble-clad church of Santa Maria dei Miracoli, known simply as the Miracoli (Mon–Sat 10am–5pm; €3, or Chorus Pass – see box, p.274). Thought to have been designed by Pietro Lombardo, it was built in the 1480s to house a painting of the Madonna (still the altarpiece) that was believed to have performed a number of miracles, such as reviving a man who’d spent half an hour lying at the bottom of the Giudecca canal. Typically for Renaissance architecture in Venice, richness of effect takes precedence over classical correctness – the Corinthian pilasters are set below the Ionic, so that the viewer can better appreciate the more elaborate carving on the Corinthian. The interior contains some of the most intricate decorative sculpture to be seen in Venice. The half-length ﬁgures of two saints and the Annunciation on the balustrade of the raised galleries at the east end are attributed to Lombardo’s son Tullio.

Castello Bordering both San Marco and Cannaregio, and spreading right across the city to the housing estates of Sant’Elena in the east, Castello is the largest of the sestieri. In terms of its tourist appeal, centre stage is occupied by the huge Santi Giovanni e Paolo. Within a few minutes’ walk of here are two other fascinating churches, Santa Maria Formosa and San Zaccaria, as well as the beguiling Carpaccio paintings in the Scuola di San Giorgio degli Schiavoni. Much of the eastern section of the Castello sestiere is given over to the Arsenale, once the industrial hub of the city and now a large naval base. Beyond it lies a predominantly residential quarter that has little to offer of cultural signiﬁcance, except when the Biennale art and architecture shows are on, though its open spaces – the Giardini Garibaldi, Giardini Pubblici and Parco della Rimembranza – offer a little green relief. Campo Santi Giovanni e Paolo

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When the condottiere Bartolomeo Colleoni died, he left a handsome legacy to the republic on condition that a monument should be erected to him in the square in front of San Marco, an impossible proposition to Venice’s rulers, with their cult of anonymous service to the state. They got around this dilemma by interpreting the will in a way that allowed them to raise the monument in front of the Scuola Grande di San Marco, rather than the basilica, and still claim the money. In 1481 the commission for the monument was won by Andrea Verrocchio, who was working on the piece when he died at the end of June 1488. Alessandro

Leopardi was called in to ﬁnish the work and produce the plinth for it, which he gladly did – even adding his signature on the horse’s girth and appending del Cavallo to his name. A spectacular backdrop to the Colleoni monument, the Scuola Grande di San Marco has provided a sumptuous facade and foyer for the Ospedale Civile since its suppression in the early nineteenth century. The facade was started by Pietro Lombardo and Giovanni Buora in 1487, and ﬁnished in 1495 by Mauro Codussi. The church of Santi Giovanni e Paolo V E NI C E AND THE V E NE TO

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The church of Santi Giovanni e Paolo (Mon–Sat 8am–6.30pm, Sun noon– 6.30pm; €2.50) is the Dominican equivalent of the Frari, founded in 1246, rebuilt and enlarged from 1333, and ﬁnally consecrated in 1430. The sarcophagus of Doge Giacomo Tiepolo, who gave the site to the Dominicans, is on the left of the door outside. Approximately 90m long, 38m wide at the transepts and 33m high in the centre, the interior is stunning for its sheer size, and is more spacious than it would have been up to 1682, when the wooden choir was demolished. The simplicity of the design, a nave with two aisles and gracefully soaring arches, is offset by the huge number of tombs and monuments around the walls, including those of 25 doges. In the south aisle, after the ﬁrst altar, is the monument to the Venetian military commander Marcantonio Bragadin, to which is attached one of Venice’s grisliest stories. In 1571 Bragadin was double-crossed by the Turks to whom he had been obliged to surrender Famagusta: tortured and humiliated for days by his captors, he was eventually skinned alive. Some years later the skin was brought back to Venice, and today it sits in the urn high up on the wall. Giovanni Bellini’s superb polyptych St Vincent Ferrer, with Saints Christopher and Sebastian, with an Annunciation and pietà above, occupies the next altar. At the far end of this aisle, before you turn into the transept, you’ll see a small shrine with the foot of St Catherine of Siena: most of her body is in Rome, her head is in her house in Siena and other relics are scattered about Italy. The south transept has a painting by Alvise Vivarini, Christ Carrying the Cross (1474), and Lorenzo Lotto’s St Antonine (1542), painted in return for nothing more than his expenses and permission to be buried in the church. Sadly, Lotto was eventually driven from his home town by the jealousies and plots of other artists (including Titian), and died in a monastery at Loreto. On the right of the chancel is the tomb of Doge Michele Morosini, selected by Ruskin as “the richest monument of the Gothic period in Venice”. The tomb of Doge Andrea Vendramin, opposite, was singled out as its antithesis – only the half of the effigy’s head that would be visible from below was completed by the artist, a short cut denounced by Ruskin as indicative of “an extreme of intellectual and moral degradation”. Tullio Lombardo is thought to have been the culprit. In 1867 a ﬁre wrecked the Cappella del Rosario, at the end of the north transept, destroying paintings by Tintoretto, Palma il Giovane and others; of their replacements, the best are Veronese’s ceiling panels and Adoration. Funerary sculpture is the main attraction of the north aisle. To the left of the sacristy door is the monument to Doge Pasquale Malipiero by Pietro Lombardo, one of the earliest in Renaissance style in Venice. Santa Maria Formosa and around

South of San Zanipolo lies Campo di Santa Maria Formosa, an atmospheric square with a modest but mouthwatering morning market. The church of Santa Maria Formosa (Mon–Sat 10am–5pm; €3, or Chorus Pass – see box, p.274) was built by San Magno, Bishop of Oderzo, in the seventh century, who was inspired by

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a dream in which he saw a buxom (formosa) ﬁgure of the Madonna. The present building is another Codussi effort, dating from 1492. Palma il Vecchio’s altarpiece St Barbara, the church’s outstanding picture, was admired by George Eliot as “an almost unique presentation of a hero-woman”. The Renaissance Palazzo Querini-Stampalia, just round the corner from Santa Maria Formosa, houses the Pinacoteca Querini-Stampalia (Tues–Sun 10am–7pm; €8). Although there is a batch of Renaissance pieces – such as Palma il Vecchio’s marriage portraits of Francesco Querini and Paola Priuli Querini (for whom the palace was built), and Giovanni Bellini’s Presentation in the Temple – the general tone of the collection is set by the culture of eighteenth-century Venice, a period to which much of the palace’s decor belongs. The winningly inept pieces by Gabriel Bella form a comprehensive record of Venetian social life in that century, and the more accomplished genre paintings of Pietro and Alessandro Longhi feature prominently as well. Another attraction of the Querini-Stampalia is that visitors are treated to a free chamber-music concert inside the museum at 5pm every Saturday. San Zaccaria and the Riva

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The Campo San Zaccaria, a few yards off the waterfront, has a more torrid past than most – the convent here was notorious for its libidinous goings-on (officials were once sent to close down the nuns’ parlour, only to be met with a barrage of bricks). The towering church of San Zaccaria (Mon–Sat 10am–noon & 4–6pm, Sun 4–6pm), a pleasing mixture of Gothic and Renaissance, was started by Antonio Gambello and ﬁnished after his death in 1481 by Mauro Codussi, who was responsible for the facade from the ﬁrst storey upwards. Inside is one of the city’s most stunning altarpieces, a Madonna and Four Saints by Giovanni Bellini. A fee of €1 gets you into the rebuilt remnants of the old church, the Cappella di Sant’Atanasio and Cappella di San Tarasio, where you’ll ﬁnd an early Tintoretto, The Birth of John the Baptist, and three wonderful altarpieces by Antonio Vivarini and Giovanni d’Alemagna. The principal waterfront of the area, the Riva degli Schiavoni, stretches right back to the Molo. Halfway along the Riva stands the Pietà church, or Santa Maria della Visitazione (Tues–Fri 10am–noon & 3–5pm, Sat & Sun 10am–noon), famous as the place where Vivaldi was choirmaster – he was also violin teacher to the attached orphanage. Giorgio Massari won a competition to redesign the church in 1736, and it’s possible that he consulted with Vivaldi on its acoustics; building didn’t actually begin until 1745, and the facade was ﬁnished only in 1906. The interior, which looks like a wedding cake turned inside out, has one of Venice’s most ostentatious ceiling paintings, Giambattista Tiepolo’s The Glory of Paradise. The Greek quarter and the Scuola di San Giorgio degli Schiavoni

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Stroll north along the ﬂank of the Pietà and you’ll enter the quarter of Venice’s Greek community, identiﬁable by the alarmingly tilted campanile of San Giorgio dei Greci. The Greek presence was strong in Venice from the eleventh century, and grew stronger after Constantinople’s capture by the Turks in 1453; by the close of the ﬁfteenth century they had founded their own church, college and school here. The present scuola, designed (like the college) by Longhena in the seventeenth century, houses the Museo Dipinti Sacri Bizantini (daily 9am–5pm; €4). Although many of the most beautiful of the exhibited works (mainly ﬁfteenth to eighteenth century) maintain the traditions of icon painting in terms of composition and use of symbolic ﬁgures rather than attempts at realism, it’s fascinating to see how some of the artists absorbed Western inﬂuences. The church (Mon &

San Francesco della Vigna

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Somewhat stranded on the northern edge of Castello, the church of San Francesco della Vigna (Mon–Sat 8am–12.30pm & 3–6.30pm, Sun 3–6.30pm) takes its name from the vineyard that was here when the Franciscans were given the site in 1253. The present church building was begun in 1534, designed and supervised by Sansovino, but the design was modiﬁed during construction, and Palladio was later brought in to provide the facade. Some ﬁne works of art are to be seen inside, including Giambattista Tiepolo’s frescoes in the Cappella Sagredo, a Sacra Conversazione by Veronese, sculptures of Prophets and Evangelists by the Lombardo family (in the chapel to the left of the chancel), and a large Madonna and Child Enthroned by Antonio da Negroponte. And don’t overlook the tranquil ﬁfteenth-century cloisters.

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Wed–Sat 9.30am–12.30pm & 2.30–4.30pm, Sun 9am–1pm) contains icons dating back to the twelfth century and a lot of work by Michael Danaskinàs, a sixteenthcentury Cretan artist. From here it’s a hundred metres or so to the Scuola di San Giorgio degli Schiavoni, whose ground-ﬂoor hall (Mon 2.45–6pm, Tues–Sat 9.15am–1pm & 2.45–6pm, Sun 9.15am–1pm; €4) is one of the most beautiful rooms in Europe. Venice’s resident Slavs (Schiavoni), most of whom were traders, set up a scuola to look after their interests in 1451; the present building dates from the early sixteenth century, and the whole interior looks more or less as it would have then. Entering it, you step straight from the street into the lower hall, the walls of which are decorated with a superb cycle of pictures created by Vittore Carpaccio between 1502 and 1509. Outstanding among them is The Vision of St Augustine, depicting the moment that Augustine, while writing to St Jerome, had a vision of Jerome’s death.

The Arsenale and Museo Storico Navale

The dockyards and factories of the Arsenale were the foundations on which Venice’s mercantile and military supremacy rested. A corruption of the Arabic darsin’a (house of industry), its very name is indicative of the strength of the city’s trading links with the eastern Mediterranean. Construction of the Arsenale began in the early years of the twelfth century, and by the third decade of the ﬁfteenth century it had become the base for some 300 shipping companies, operating around 3000 vessels in excess of 200 tonnes. Expansion of the Arsenale continued into the sixteenth century – Sanmicheli’s covered dock for the state barge (the Bucintoro) was built in the 1540s, for example, and da Ponte’s gigantic rope-factory (the Tana) in 1579. By then, though, the maritime strength of Venice was past its peak; militarily, too, despite the conspicuous success at Lépanto in 1571, Venice was on the wane. When Napoleon took over the city in 1797 he burned down the wharves, sank the last Bucintoro and conﬁscated the remnant of the Venetian navy. There’s no public access to the Arsenale complex except during the Biennale, but you can get a look at part of it from the bridge connecting the Campo Arsenale and the Fondamenta dell’Arsenale. The main gateway, built by Antonio Gambello in 1460, was the ﬁrst structure in Venice to employ the classical vocabulary of Renaissance architecture. The four lions to the side of the gateway must be the most photographed in the city: the two on the right were probably taken from Delos (at an unknown date); the larger pair were brought back from Piraeus in 1687 by Francesco Morosini after the reconquest of the Morea. Nearby, on the other side of the Rio dell’Arsenale and facing the lagoon, is the Museo Storico Navale (Mon–Fri 8.45am–1.30pm, Sat 8.45am–1pm; €1.60). Chieﬂy of interest for its models of Venetian craft from the gondola to the

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Below is a selection of the most impressive Canal Grande palaces. To see both banks at once, make sure you get a seat at the front or the back of the vaporetto; and don’t miss the experience of a nocturnal boat ride. 1. Calatrava Bridge The newest feature of Venice’s cityscape is ofﬁcially known as the Ponte della Costituzione, but Venetians name it after its designer, Santiago Calatrava. The elegant arc of steel, stone and glass is modelled on a gondola’s hull. 2. Scalzi Bridge The successor of an iron structure put up by the Austrians in 1858–60, which had to be replaced in the early 1930s to give the new steamboats sufﬁcient clearance. 3. Fondaco dei Turchi A private house from the early thirteenth century until 1621, the Fondaco dei Turchi was then turned over to Turkish traders, who stayed here until 1838. Though over-restored, the building’s towers and arcade give a reasonably precise picture of what a Veneto-Byzantine palace would have looked like. 4. Palazzo Vendramin-Calergi Begun by Mauro Codussi at the very end of the ﬁfteenth century, this was the ﬁrst Venetian palace built on classical Renaissance lines. The

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palazzo’s most famous resident was Richard Wagner, who died here in February 1883. It’s now the casino. 5. Ca’ Pésaro The thickly ornamented Ca’ Pésaro, bristling with diamond-shaped spikes and grotesque heads, took half a century to build – work ﬁnished in 1703, long after the death of the architect, Baldassare Longhena. See also p.286. 6. Palazzo Corner della Regina This palazzo was built in 1724 on the site of the home of Caterina Cornaro, Queen of Cyprus, from whom the palace takes its name. 7. Ca’ d’Oro Incorporating fragments of a thirteenth-century palace that once stood on the site, the gorgeous Ca’ d’Oro was built in the 1420s and 30s, and acquired its nickname – “The Golden House” – from the gilding that used to accentuate its carving. 8. Ca’ da Mosto The arches of the ﬁrst ﬂoor of the Ca’ da Mosto and the carved panels above them are remnants of a thirteenth-century Veneto-Byzantine building, and are thus among the oldest structures on the canal. 9. Rialto market See p.285. 10. Fondaco dei Tedeschi The fondaco was once headquarters of the city’s German merchants, who as early as 1228 were leasing a building here. In 1505 the Fondaco burned down; Giorgione and Titian were commissioned to paint the exterior of its replacement. The remnants of their contribution are now in the Ca’ d’Oro. 11. Rialto Bridge See p.285. 12. Palazzo Loredan and Palazzo Farsetti These neighbouring palazzi are heavily restored Veneto-Byzantine palaces of the thirteenth century, now the town hall. 13. Palazzo Grimani Work began on the immense Palazzo Grimani in 1559, to designs by Sanmicheli, but was not completed until 1575, sixteen years after his death. Ruskin, normally no fan of Renaissance architecture, made an exception for this colossal palace, calling it “simple, delicate, and sublime”. 14. The Mocenigo palaces Four houses that once belonged to the Mocenigo family stand side by side on the Canal Grande’s sharpest turn: the Palazzo Mocenigo-Nero, a late sixteenth-century building, once home to Byron; the double Palazzo Mocenigo, built in the eighteenth century; and the Palazzo Mocenigo Vecchio, a Gothic palace remodelled in the seventeenth century. 15. Ca’ Fóscari The largest private house in Venice at the time of its construction (c.1435), Ca’ Fóscari was the home of Doge Francesco Fóscari, whose extraordinarily long term of ofﬁce (34 years) came to an end with his forced resignation. 16. The Palazzi Giustinian See p.284. 17. Ca’ Rezzonico Longhena’s gargantuan Ca’ Rezzonico was begun in 1667 as a commission from the Bon family, but they were obliged to sell the still unﬁnished palace to the Rezzonico, a family of stupendously wealthy Genoese bankers. Among its subsequent owners was Pen Browning, whose father Robert died here in 1889. 18. Palazzo Grassi This vast palazzo was built in 1748–72 by Massari. The last great house to be built on the Canal Grande, it’s now used as an exhibition venue. 19. Accademia Bridge As the larger vaporetti couldn’t get under the iron Ponte dell’Accademia that was built by the Austrians in 1854, it was replaced in 1932 by a wooden structure, later reinforced with steel. 20. Palazzo Venier dei Leoni In 1759 the Venier family, one of Venice’s richest dynasties, began rebuilding their home, but this palazzo, which would have been the largest palace on the canal, never progressed further than the ﬁrst storey. The stump of the building is occupied by the Guggenheim collection of modern art. 21. Palazzo Dario This exquisite little palazzo was built in the late 1480s, and the multicoloured marbles of the facade are characteristic of the work of the Lombardo family. 22. Palazzo Corner della Ca’ Grande The palace that used to stand here was destroyed when a ﬁre lit to dry out a stock of sugar ran out of control. Sansovino’s design – built from 1545 – is notable for its rugged lower-storey stonework, which makes it the prototype for the Ca’ Pésaro and Ca’ Rezzonico.

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Bucintoro (these models were the equivalents of blueprints), the museum gives a comprehensive picture of the working life of the Arsenale and the smaller boatyards of Venice. San Pietro di Castello

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In 1808 the greater part of the canal connecting the Bacino di San Marco to the broad inlet of the Canale di San Pietro was ﬁlled in to form what is now Via Garibaldi, the widest street in the city and the busiest commercial area in the eastern district. Head along the right-hand side of the street and you’ll soon cross the Ponte di Quintavalle onto the island of San Pietro, once the ecclesiastical centre of Venice, but nowadays a slightly down-at-heel place where the chief activity is the repairing of boats. The church (Mon–Sat 10am–5pm; €3, or Chorus Pass – see box, p.274) is basically a grandiose derivative of a plan by Palladio and has little to recommend it. Sant’Elena

| The northern islands

Located at the eastern limit of the city, the island of Sant’Elena was enlarged tenfold during the Austrian administration, partly to form exercise grounds for the troops. Much of the island used to be covered by the meadow of Sant’Elena, a favourite recreation area in the nineteenth century but since usurped by houses, leaving only a strip of park along the waterfront. Still, the walk out here is the nearest you’ll get to country pleasures in Venice, and the church of Sant’Elena (Mon–Sat 5–7pm) – next to the city’s football stadium – is worth a visit, chieﬂy for the facade sculpture created in the 1470s by Antonio Rizzo, showing Vittore Cappello (captain-general of the republic’s navy) kneeling before St Helena, Constantine’s mother. Inside, a chapel on the right enshrines the alleged remains of Helena, whose body is more generally believed to lie in Rome’s church of Santa Maria in Aracoeli.

The northern islands The islands lying to the north of Venice – San Michele, Murano, Burano and Torcello – are the places to visit when the throng of tourists in the main part of the city becomes too oppressive, and are the source of much of the glass and lace work you see in many shops in the city. To get to the northern islands, the main vaporetto stop is Fondamente Nove (or Nuove), as most of the island services start here or call here (see box, p.266).

San Michele

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The high brick wall around the cemetery island of San Michele gives way by the landing stage to the elegant white facade of San Michele in Isola (daily: April–Sept 7.30am–6pm; Oct–March 7.30am–4pm), designed by Mauro Codussi in 1469. With this building, Codussi not only helped introduce Renaissance architecture to Venice, but also promoted the use of Istrian stone. Easy to carve yet resistant to water, it had been used as damp-prooﬁng at ground level, but never before for a complete facade; it was to be used on the facades of most major buildings in Venice from the Renaissance onwards. The main part of the island, through the cloisters, is the city cemetery (same hours as church), established by Napoleonic decree and nowadays maintained by the Franciscans, as is the church. The majority of Venetians lie here for just ten years or so, when their bones are dug up and removed to an ossuary and the land recycled.

Only those who can afford it stay longer. The cemetery is laid out in sections, the most dilapidated of which is for the Protestants (no. XV), Ezra Pound’s ﬁnal resting place; Nobel laureate Joseph Brodsky is buried here too. In section XIV are the Greek and Russian Orthodox graves, including the restrained memorial stones of Igor and Vera Stravinsky and the more elaborate tomb of Serge Diaghilev. Even with the grave-rotation system, the island is reaching full capacity, so in 1998 a competition was held for the redevelopment of San Michele. The winning entry, from English architect David Chipperﬁeld, places a sequence of formal courtyards alongside a new funerary chapel and crematorium. It promises to be an austerely beautiful place, resembling a cross between a necropolis and a philosopher’s retreat.

| The northern islands

The glass-blowing industry is what made Murano famous all over Europe, and today its furnaces constitute Venice’s sole surviving manufacturing zone. The main fondamente of Murano are given over almost entirely to shops selling glasswork, and it’s difficult to walk more than a few metres on this island without being invited to step inside a showroom – and once inside, you’re likely to be pressured into forking out for some piece of kitsch which may not even have been made here. However, some of the showrooms have furnaces attached, and you shouldn’t pass up the chance to see these astoundingly skilful craftsmen in action, even if they’re only churning out little glass ponies and other silly knick-knacks. The glass furnaces were moved to here from Venice as a safety measure in 1291, and so jealously did the Muranese guard their industrial secrets that for a long while they had the European monopoly on glass mirror-making. The glass-blowers of Murano were accorded various privileges not allowed to other artisans, such as being able to wear swords. From 1376 the offspring of a marriage between a Venetian nobleman and the daughter of a glass-worker were allowed to be entered into the Libro d’Oro, unlike the children of other cross-class matches. When the Venetian Republic fell to Napoleon in 1797, there were seventeen churches on Murano; today only two are open. The ﬁrst is San Pietro Martire (Mon–Sat 9am–noon & 3–6pm, Sun 3–6pm), a Dominican Gothic church begun in 1363 and largely rebuilt after a ﬁre in 1474. It contains a handful of ﬁne paintings, notably Giovanni Bellini’s large Madonna and Child with St Mark, St Augustine and Doge Barbarigo. Another altarpiece attributed to Bellini – an Assumption – should hang nearby, but it’s been in restauro for years. On the opposite side of the church are two pieces by Veronese – St Agatha in Prison and St Jerome in the Desert.

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Murano

The Museo del Vetro

Close by, along Riva Longa, you’ll ﬁnd the Museo del Vetro (Glass Museum; Thurs–Tues: April–Oct 10am–6pm; Nov–March 10am–5pm; €6.50 or Museum Pass, see box, p.274, or Venice Card, see box, p.265), where perhaps the ﬁnest single item is the dark-blue Barovier marriage cup, dating from around 1470 – it’s on show in room 1 on the ﬁrst ﬂoor, along with some splendid Renaissance enamelled and painted glass. But every room contains some amazing creations: glass beakers that look as if they are made from veined stone; sixteenth-century platters that look like discs of crackled ice; stupendously ugly nineteenth-century decorative pieces, with fat little birds enmeshed in trellises of glass. A separate room contains a fascinating exhibition on the history of Murano glass techniques. Santi Maria e Donato

Murano’s ﬁnest building is the Veneto-Byzantine church of Santi Maria e Donato, which was founded in the seventh century and rebuilt in the twelfth (Mon–Sat

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9am–noon & 3.30–7pm, Sun 3.30–7pm). Its beautiful mosaic ﬂoor, dated 1141 in the nave, mingles abstract patterns with images of beasts and birds – an eagle carries off a deer; two roosters carry off a fox slung from a pole. The church was originally dedicated to Mary, but in 1125 was rededicated when the relics of St Donatus were brought here from the Greek island, Kefalonia. Four splendid bones from an unfortunate dragon that was slain by the holy spit of Donatus are now hanging behind the altar. Above these, in the apse, is a twelfth-century mosaic of the Madonna and ﬁfteenth-century frescoes of the Evangelists.

Burano V E NI C E AND THE V E NE TO

| The northern islands

After the peeling plaster and eroded stonework of the other lagoon settlements, the small, brightly painted houses of Burano come as something of a surprise. Local tradition says that the colours once enabled each ﬁsherman to identify his house from out at sea, but nowadays the colours are used simply for decorative effect. This is still largely a ﬁshing community, the lagoon’s main yield being shellﬁsh of various kinds, such as vongole (tiny clams) and small crabs. (The catch can be bought either here, on the Fondamenta Pescheria, or at the Rialto.) The lives of the women of Burano used to be dominated by the lace industry, but the production of handmade lace is no longer a large-scale enterprise, and much of the stuff sold in the shops lining the narrow street leading from the vaporetto stop is produced by machine, outside Italy. The skills of lacemaking are still taught at Burano’s Scuola del Merletto (Wed– Mon: April–Oct 10am–5pm; Nov–March 10am–4pm; €6.50, or Museum Pass, see box, p.274, or Venice Card, see box, p.265), on Piazza Baldassare Galuppi. Although the scuola has not operated as a full-time school since the late 1960s and is almost moribund, a few courses are still held here, and on weekdays you might see a few local women at work on their cylindrical cushions. Pieces produced here are displayed in the attached museum, along with specimens dating back to the sixteenth century; after even a quick tour you’ll have no problems distinguishing the real thing from the machine-made and imported lace that ﬁlls the Burano shops.

Torcello

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Torcello was settled as early as the ﬁfth century, became the seat of the Bishop of Altinum from 638, and the home of about twenty thousand people by the fourteenth century, before being eclipsed by Venice – by the end of the ﬁfteenth century Torcello was largely deserted and only about thirty people remain in residence. The main reason people come here today is to visit Venice’s ﬁrst cathedral, Santa Maria dell’Assunta (daily: March–Oct 10.30am–6pm; Nov–Feb 10am–5pm; €5, joint ticket with campanile €9, or with museum and campanile €12). An early church on the site became a cathedral after the Bishop of Altinum arrived with other emigrants from the mainland. The present Veneto-Byzantine building is on pretty much the same plan as the seventh-century one, but it was largely rebuilt in the 860s and altered again in 1008. A stunning twelfth-century mosaic of the Madonna and Child, on a pure gold background, covers the semi-dome of the apse, resting on an eleventh-century mosaic frieze of the Apostles. In the centre of the frieze, below the window, is St Heliodorus, the ﬁrst Bishop of Altinum, whose remains were brought here by the ﬁrst settlers. It’s interesting to compare this image with the gold-plated face mask given to his remains in a Roman sarcophagus in front of the original seventhcentury altar. Ruskin described the view from the campanile as “one of the most notable scenes in this wide world”, a verdict you can test for yourself (closes 30min before cathedral; €5, or joint ticket).

The church of Santa Fosca (same hours as Santa Maria; free) was built in the eleventh and twelfth centuries to house the body of the eponymous saint, brought to Torcello from Libya some time before 1011 and now resting under the altar. In the square outside sits the curious chair of Attila. Local legend has it that if you sit in it you will be wed within a year. Behind it, in two buildings round the square, is the Museo di Torcello (same hours as cathedral; €3, or joint ticket), which includes nicely displayed thirteenth-century beaten gold ﬁgures, sections of mosaic heads, and jewellery.

San Giorgio Maggiore The islet of San Giorgio Maggiore is dominated by Palladio’s church of the same name (daily: May–Sept 9.30am–12.30pm & 2–5.30pm; Oct–April 9.30am–12.30pm & 2.30–4.30pm). Ruskin didn’t much care for it: “It is impossible to conceive a design more gross, more barbarous, more childish in conception, more servile in plagiarism, more insipid in result, more contemptible under every point of rational regard.” He was more taken by Tintoretto’s The Fall of Manna and The Last Supper, which hang in the chancel and were painted as a pair in 1592–94, the last years of the artist’s life. On the left of the choir a corridor leads to the lift up the campanile (€3). Rebuilt in 1791 after the collapse of its predecessor, it’s the best vantage point in the city, because it has the advantage of being detached from the main part of the city, giving you a panorama that includes many of the canals (all of which are hidden from the San Marco tower) and, of course, the spectacular San Marco campanile itself. The ex-Benedictine monastery next door to the church, now the base of the combined arts research institute, craft school and naval college known as the Fondazione Giorgio Cini (W www.cini.it), is one of the architectural gems of Venice, and a regular venue for exhibitions (the only time the Fondazione is open to the public).

| The southern islands

The section of the lagoon to the south of the city, enclosed by the long islands of the Lido and Pellestrina, has far fewer outcrops of solid land than the northern half: once you get past Giudecca and San Giorgio Maggiore – in effect detached pieces of central Venice, served by water-buses #2, and #2 plus #41 and #42 respectively – and clear of the smaller islands that dot the water off the middle section of the Lido, you could, on certain days, look in the direction of the mainland and think you were out in the open sea. The nearer islands are the more interesting: the farther-ﬂung settlements of the southern lagoon have played a signiﬁcant role in the history of Venice, but nowadays they have little going for them other than the pleasure of the trip.

V E NI C E AND THE V E NE TO

The southern islands

La Giudecca In the earliest records of Venice, the island of La Giudecca was known as Spina Longa, a name clearly derived from its shape; the modern name might refer to the Jews (Giudei) who were based here from the late thirteenth century until their removal to the Ghetto, or to the disruptive noble families who, from the ninth century, were shoved onto this chain of islets to keep them out of mischief (giudicati meaning “judged”). Before the banks of the Brenta became prestigious, the Giudecca was where the wealthiest aristocrats of early Renaissance Venice

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built their villas, and in places you can still see traces of their gardens. Wealth is still present, in the form of the luxury Cipriani and Hilton hotels at either end of the island; the latter occupies the immense Mulino Stucky, once a ﬂour mill. In between are the workshops, boatyards and housing estates that make Giudecca one of the few places in Venice where tourism doesn’t prevail. The Redentore

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The Franciscan church of the Redentore (Mon–Sat 10am–5pm; €3, or Chorus Pass – see box, p.274), designed by Palladio in 1577, is the Giudecca’s main monument. In 1575–76 Venice suffered an outbreak of bubonic plague that killed nearly ﬁfty thousand people – virtually a third of the city’s population. The Redentore was built in thanks for Venice’s deliverance, and every year the doge and his senators attended a Mass in the church on the Feast of the Redentore. The procession walked to the church over a pontoon bridge from the Záttere, a ceremony perpetuated by the people of Venice on the third Sunday in July (see p.308). The bright plasterwork of the interior manipulates the different intensities of light in the church to draw the eye – and the mind – inward and upward. As the architect wrote, “Among all colours, none can be more suitable for temples than white because the purity of the colour is more acceptable to God.” The best paintings in the church, including a Madonna with Child and Angels by Alvise Vivarini, are in the sacristy, which is very rarely opened.

| The southern islands

San Lazzaro degli Armeni No foreign community has a longer pedigree in Venice than the Armenians: they were established by the end of the thirteenth century, and for around ﬁve hundred years have had a church within a few yards of the Piazza (in Calle degli Armeni). They are far less numerous now, and the most conspicuous sign of their presence is the island by the Lido, San Lazzaro degli Armeni, identiﬁable from the city by the onion-shaped top of its campanile. The Roman Catholic Armenian monastery here was founded in 1717 by Manug di Pietro (known as Mechitar, “The Consoler”), and derived its name from the island’s past function as a leper colony – Lazarus being the patron saint of lepers. Visitors are received here daily from 3.25pm to 5.25pm, admission is €6 and the connecting #20 motoscafo leaves San Zaccaria at 3.10pm (2.45pm in summer), returning at the end of the guided tour. The Armenian monks have always had a reputation as scholars and linguists, and the monastery’s collection of precious books and manuscripts, some going back to the ﬁfth century, is a highlight of the tour, along with a Tiepolo ceiling panel and the room in which Byron stayed while lending a hand with the preparation of an Armenian–English dictionary.

The Lido

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For about eight centuries, the Lido was the focus of the annual hullaballoo of Venice’s “Marriage to the Sea”, when the doge went out to the Porto di Lido to drop a gold ring into the brine and then disembarked for Mass at San Nicolò al Lido. It was then an unspoilt strip of land, and remained so into the nineteenth century. By the twentieth century, however, it had become the smartest bathing resort in Italy, and although it’s no longer as chic as it was when Thomas Mann set Death in Venice here, there’s less room on its beaches now than ever before. Unless you’re staying at one of the ﬂashy hotels that stand shoulder to shoulder along the seafront, you won’t be made welcome on the prime stretch of Lido sand. The ungroomed public beaches are at the northern and southern ends of the island – though why people would want to swim in these ﬁlthy waters is a mystery.

Eating and drinking

As in every Italian city, Venice’s cafés are central to its social life, and you’ll never be more than a couple of minutes from a decent one. In addition to their marvellous local confections, many pasticcerie also serve coffee, but will have at most a few bar stools. Strict budgeting is further jeopardized by Venice’s terriﬁc gelaterie. San Marco Florian Piazza S. Marco 56–59. Opened in 1720 and decorated in a passable pastiche of that period, this has long been the café to be seen in. A simple cappuccino at a table will set you back around €10 and you’ll have to take out a mortgage for a cocktail; if the “orchestra” is playing, you’ll be taxed another €6 for the privilege. Daily 10am–midnight, closed Wed in winter. Igloo Calle della Mandola 3651. Luscious home-made ice cream – the summer fruit concoctions are especially delicious. Daily: May–Sept 11am–8pm; Oct, Nov & Feb–April 11.30am–7.30pm. Marchini Calle Spadaria 676. The most delicious and most expensive of Venetian pasticcerie. The cakes are fabulous, as is the Marchini chocolate. June–Sept Mon & Wed–Sat 9am–8pm; Oct–May daily 9am–10pm.

Dorsoduro Il Caffè Campo S. Margherita 2963. Known as Caffè Rosso for its big red sign, this small, atmospheric, old-fashioned café-bar is a student favourite. Good sandwiches, and lots of seats outside in the campo. Mon–Sat 7am–1am.

Nico Záttere ai Gesuati 922. A high-point of a wander in the area, celebrated for an arteryclogging creation called a gianduiotto – ask for one da passeggio (to take out) and you’ll be given a paper cup with a block of praline ice cream drowned in whipped cream. Mon–Wed & Fri–Sun 6.45am–10pm.

| Eating and drinking

Cafés, pasticcerie and gelaterie

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Not long ago the reliable judges of the Accademia della Cucina ventured that it was “a rare privilege” to eat well in Venice, and there’s more than an element of truth to Venice’s reputation as a place where mass tourism has produced monotonous menus, cynical service and slapdash standards in the kitchen. Venice has fewer good moderately priced restaurants than any other major Italian city, but things have been improving in recent years, due in part to the efforts of the Ristorante della Buona Accoglienza, an association of restaurateurs determined to present the best of genuine Venetian cuisine at sensible prices – which in the Venetian context means in the region of €35–40 per person. A distinctive aspect of the Venetian social scene is the bácaro, which in its purest form is a bar that offers a range of snacks called cicheti (sometimes spelled ciccheti); the array will typically include polpette (small beef and garlic meatballs), carcioﬁni (artichoke hearts), eggs, anchovies, polipi (baby octopus or squid) and tomatoes, peppers and courgettes cooked in oil. Some bácari also produce one or two more substantial dishes each day, such as risotto or seafood pasta. Excellent food is also served at many of Venice’s osterie (or ostarie), the simplest of which are indistinguishable from bácari, while others have sizeable dining areas. We’ve classiﬁed our bars and restaurants according to which aspect of the business draws most of the customers, but if you’re looking for a simple meal in a particular area of the city, be sure to check both listings.

San Polo and Santa Croce Alaska Calle Larga dei Bari 1159. Friendly gelateria, dishing out adventurous ﬂavours such as artichoke and fennel amid the more traditional concoctions. April–Oct daily 11am–midnight; Nov, Feb & March Tues–Sun noon–9pm. Caffè del Doge Calle dei Cinque 609. Fantastically good coffee (they supply many of the city’s bars and restaurants), served in a chic minimalist set-up very close to the Rialto Bridge. Mon–Sat 7am–7pm, Sun 7am–6pm. Cioccolateria VizioVirtù Calle del Campaniel 2898/A. Located just off Campo San Tomà, this shop creates the most extraordinary chocolates – they’re not cheap, but a single VizioVirtù trufﬂe will give your taste buds an experience to remember. It now makes its own ice cream too – the most expensive gelato in town. Daily 10am–7.30pm; closed Aug.

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Markets and food shops

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The beauty of the cityscape and the cost of restaurant meals combine to make picnicking a particularly enticing proposition in Venice – but don’t try it in the campi, where bylaws against it are strictly enforced. Open-air produce markets are held in various squares every day except Sunday; check out Santa Maria Formosa, Santa Margherita, Rio Terrà San Leonardo and the barge moored by Campo San Barnaba. The market of markets, however, is the one at the Rialto, where you can buy everything you need for an impromptu feast – it’s open Monday to Saturday 8am to 1pm, with a few stalls opening again in the late afternoon. Virtually every parish has its alimentari and most of them are good; one worth singling out is Aliani Gastronomia in Ruga Vecchia S. Giovanni, in the Rialto district. Alternatively, Venice has some well-hidden supermarkets: Punto Sma, tucked between houses 3019 and 3112 on Campo Santa Margherita (Dorsoduro); Billa at Záttere Ponte Lungo 1491, by the San Basilio vaporetto stop (Dorsoduro); the large Co-Op by the Piazzale Roma vaporetto stop for services to Murano; Billa at Strada Nova 3660, near San Felice (Cannaregio); and Prix, at Fondamenta San Giacomo 203/A (Giudecca). Most are open daily 8.30am–8/8.30pm, though some of the smaller ones close for a couple of hours in the middle of the day, and on Sundays.

Cannaregio

| Eating and drinking

Il Gelatone Rio Terà Maddalena 2063. The best ice creams in Cannaregio. Thurs–Tues 11am–10pm; closed mid-Jan to mid-Dec.

Castello La Boutique del Gelato Salizzada S. Lio 5727. Top-grade ice creams at this small outlet. Daily: June–Sept 10am–11.30pm; Oct, Nov & Feb–May 10am–8.30pm.

Rosa Salva Campo Santi Giovanni e Paolo 6779. With its marble-topped bar and outside tables facing Zanipolo, this is the most characterful of the three Rosa Salva branches in the city. (The others are at Calle Fiubera 951 and Merceria San Salvador 5020, both a short way north of the Piazza.) The coffee and ice cream are superb. Thurs–Tues 7.30am–8.30pm.

Restaurants Value for money tends to increase with distance from San Marco; plenty of restaurants within a short radius of the Piazza offer menus that seem to be reasonable, but you’ll ﬁnd the food unappetizing and the portions tiny. As a rule of thumb, avoid anywhere that advertises a “menu turistico”. There are three notable concentrations of goodvalue restaurants: around Rialto market; around San Barnaba in Dorsoduro, especially Calle Lunga San Barnaba; and the western part of Cannaregio, around the Ghetto. Bear in mind that many restaurateurs take their annual holiday in August, and some close down on unscheduled days in the dead weeks of winter. In most cases, booking is advisable in high season, and you should also be aware that Venetians tend to eat early and that restaurateurs close early if trade is slack, so if you’re in town at a quiet time, don’t turn up later than 8.30pm, unless you’re dining at one of the more expensive restaurants, which tend to keep longer hours. San Marco

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Al Bacareto Calle Crosera San Samuele 3447 T 041.528.9336. Tucked away on the north side of Santo Stefano, Al Bacareto has been in business for almost forty years and remains one of the most genuine and welcoming places in this sestiere. In recent years it has been getting smarter and more expensive, but it’s still good value, with main

courses around €15–20 in the evening (prices are lower at lunch) – and if you’re watching the pennies you can always eat at the bar, where the cicheti are outstanding. In summer there are tables outside. Mon–Sat 7.30am–11pm. Osteria-Enoteca San Marco Frezzeria 1610 T041.528.5242. This classy modern osteria close to the Piazza is expensive, but the quality is high – and

the wine list is very good. Between lunch and dinner you can sip wine at the bar. Mon–Sat noon–11pm. Rosticceria Gislon Calle della Bissa 5424/A. Close to the Rialto Bridge, this is a sort of gloriﬁed snack bar on the ground ﬂoor, serving pizzas and basic set meals from about €12. In the restaurant upstairs prices are considerably higher for no great increase in quality. Daily 9am–9.30pm.

Dorsoduro

| Eating and drinking

Alla Madonna Calle della Madonna 594 T041.5522.3824. Roomy, loud and bustling seafood restaurant that’s been going strong for four decades. Little ﬁnesse (the atmosphere is refectory-like), and service can be less than perfect, but many locals still rate its kitchen as one of the city’s best. Quite good value, even if prices have gone up noticeably of late – reckon on around €45 per person. Closed Wed. Al Nono Risorto Sottoportego de Siora Bettina 2338 T041.524.1169. Located just off Campo S. Cassiano, the “Resurrected Grandad” is a pizzeriarestaurant with a predominantly twenty-something following. It often has live jazz and blues, and a pleasant small garden is a further attraction. No credit cards. Mon, Tues & Fri–Sun noon–2.30pm & 7–11pm, Thurs 7–11pm. Antico Dolo Ruga Vecchia S. Giovanni 778 T041.522.6546. You can pop into this excellent and long-established osteria for a few cicheti and a glass of Merlot and come away just a few euros poorer; or you can take a table and eat an excellent meal for something in the region of €40. Either way, you’re almost certain to think it was money very well spent. Daily 10.30am–11pm. Bancogiro Sottoportego del Banco Giro 122 T041.523.2061. This very successful and smart osteria, in a splendid location in the Rialto market, was instrumental in making this area fashionable. Nurse a glass of ﬁne wine beside the Canal Grande, or nip upstairs to the dining room for a well-prepared meal from the imaginative menu (around €20 for main courses). Tues–Sun noon–2am. Da Fiore Calle del Scaleter 2202/A T041.721.308. This reﬁned, elegant restaurant prides itself on its seafood, regional cheeses, desserts, home-made bread, and wine list. Generally considered among the very best in Venice (booking is essential), and service is faultless. The bill is likely to come to upwards of €100 per person; if this is too steep, drop into the tiny frontroom bar for a quality snack. Closed Sun & Mon. Muro Vino e Cucina Campo Cesare Battisti 222 T041.523.7495. The upstairs dining room of this modern osteria offers a good-value lunch menu (around €25); in the evening you’ll pay around twice as much, to eat from one of the city’s most innovative menus. The classy (and noisy) bar has tables out on the square. Two offshoot restaurants, called Muro Pizza e Cucina, have now opened at Campiello del Spezier 2048–50 (not far from the Rialto, near Santa Maria Mater Domini) and at Rio Terà 2604B/C (near the Frari). Mon–Sat 9am–3pm & 5pm–2am. Naranzaria Sottoportego del Banco Giro 130 T041.724.1035. The canalside buildings of the Rialto market have become colonized by smart bars and osterie. This impressive new arrival, like

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Ai Quattro Ferri Calle Lunga S. Barnaba 2754/A T041.520.6978. A very highly recommended osteria just off Campo S. Barnaba with a menu that changes daily but often consists entirely of ﬁsh and seafood. Booking essential at all times of year. No credit cards. Mon–Sat 12.30–3.30pm & 7–10.30pm. Do Farai Calle Cappeller 3278 T041.277.0369. Tucked into an alley close to Ca’ Rezzonico, this is a ﬁne osteria, serving good steaks and excellent seafood and ﬁsh – the speciality is the carpaccio of sea bass. In summer it spreads out into the neighbouring campo. Mon–Sat 9am–3pm & 6–10.30pm. L’Avogaria Calle dell’Avogaria 1629 T041.296.0491. The presence of orrechiette (thick little pasta “ears”) on the menu of supercool Avogaria is a clue to the Puglian origins of the proprietors, whose recipes use a fair amount of beef, as well as giving a twist to local seafood (eg prawns marinated in grappa). It’s pricey, with mains around €30, but the quality is high – and the lunch menu is cheaper. The minimalist bare-brick dining room and tiny courtyard-garden are further pluses. Mon & Wed–Sun 12.30am–3pm & 7.30pm–midnight. La Bitta Calle Lunga S. Barnaba 2753/A T 041.523.0531. Innovative fare at a welcoming little osteria that’s remarkable for featuring hardly anything aquatic. Marcellino runs the kitchen while his wife Debora serves and cajoles the guests, offering expert guidance on the impressive wine and grappa list. Delicious cheese platter, served with honey and fruit chutney. Tiny dining room (and garden), so booking is essential. No credit cards. Mon–Sat 6.30–11pm. Pane, Vino e San Daniele Campo Angelo Raffaele 1722 T041.523.7456. Not surprisingly, the menu at this attractive backwater osteria is dominated by San Daniele prosciutto, the ﬁnest of all Italian hams – the house speciality is a wooden platter loaded with this and a variety of other uncooked goodies, and it’s a prominent ingredient in dishes such as San Daniele gnocchi. The bar is also excellent for a snack and a glass of Friulian wine, and there’s ample seating on the secluded campo. A second branch has recently opened at Calle Lunga S. Barnaba 2861. Thurs–Tues 10am–3.30pm & 7pm–midnight.

San Polo and Santa Croce

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neighbouring Bancogiro, has a bar downstairs and a restaurant crammed into the brick-vaulted room upstairs, plus a few seats by the water, but it’s distinctive in having a hybrid Venetian–Japanese menu, which has made it the foodies’ bar of choice in this part of town. Tues–Sun noon–1am. Osteria al Ponte, “La Patatina” Calle dei Saoneri 2741/A T 041.523.7238. This bustling, inexpensive osteria serves excellent cicheti and other Venetian specialities, alongside full-meal menus that change regularly. Mon & Wed–Sun 10.30am–2.30pm & 6–10pm.

Cannaregio Ai 40 Ladroni Fondamenta della Sensa 3253 T 041.715.736. Very busy osteria with highquality cicheti at the bar and similarly good Venetian standards served at the tables. Tues–Sun 10am–midnight. Alla Fontana Fondamenta Cannaregio 1102 T041.715.077. A great little trattoria, offering a small menu of classic Venetian maritime dishes, which changes daily according to what the boats have brought in; tables beside the canal are an added attraction in summer. Portions are generous (especially the pasta dishes) and prices good – about €40 per person. Mon–Sat noon–3pm & 6.30–10pm. Alla Vedova Calle del Pistor 3912 T041.528.5324. In an alley directly opposite the one leading to the Ca’ d’Oro, this long-established little restaurant is fronted by a bar offering a mouthwatering selection of cicheti and a good range of wines. It’s one of the best-value places in town (antipasti and main courses from just €10), so reservations are a good idea. No credit cards. Mon–Wed & Fri–Sat 11.30am–2.30pm & 6.30–10.30pm, Sun 6.30–10.30pm. Anice Stellato Fondamenta della Sensa 3272 T 041.720.744. Hugely popular with Venetians for the superb, reasonably priced meals and unfussy atmosphere. Situated by one of the northernmost Cannaregio canals, it’s a little too remote for many tourists. If you can’t get a table – it’s frequently booked solid – at least drop by for the excellent cicheti at the bar. Wed–Sun 12.30–3pm & 7pm–midnight. Da Rioba Fondamenta della Misericordia 2553 T 041.524.4379. This smartly austere osteria is another excellent northern Cannaregio eatery; often full to bursting, especially in summer, when tables are set beside the canal, but the management always keeps the atmosphere relaxed. Tues–Sun 12.30–2.30pm & 7.30–10.30pm. Vini da Gigio Fondamenta S. Felice 3628/A T041.528.5140. Until a few years ago most of the customers at this popular, family-run trattoria were locals; it’s now on the tourist map, yet it retains its authenticity and is still good value by

local standards, with main courses at around €20. It has two short but excellent menus – one for meat dishes, one for ﬁsh and seafood – and, as the name suggests, the wine list is remarkable. Reservations essential. Wed–Sun noon–2.30pm & 7–10.30pm.

Castello Corte Sconta Calle del Pestrin 3886 T041.522.7024. Secreted in a lane to the east of San Giovanni in Brágora, this restaurant is one of Venice’s ﬁnest. The pleasant staff make it difﬁcult to resist the day’s specials, which could easily result in a bill in the region of €70 per head – and it would be just about the best meal you could get in Venice for that price. If expenditure is an issue, check the menu in the window before going in (often the waiters will simply recite what’s on offer rather than give you anything printed). Booking several days in advance is essential for most of the year. Tues–Sat 12.30–2pm & 7pm–midnight. Dai Tosi Calle Secco Marina 738 T041.523.7102. Not to be confused with the establishment of the same name in the same street, this lively pizzeriatrattoria has a devoted local clientele – book at the weekend. There’s a bar in front of the small dining room, where they mix the house aperitif: sgropino, a delicious mingling of vodka, peach juice, Aperol and Prosecco. On Mon, Tues & Thurs evenings it serves only pizza. Thurs–Tues 11.30am–4pm & 5–11.30pm. Da Remigio Salizzada dei Greci 3416 T041.523.0089. Superb trattoria, serving excellent ﬁsh dishes and gorgeous home-made gnocchi. The wine list is outstanding too. Be sure to book – the locals (and ever-increasing numbers of tourists) pack this place every night. While many other restaurants have ramped up their prices, it remains good value. Mon 12.30–2.30pm, Wed–Sun 12.30–2.30pm & 7.30–10pm.

Murano Busa alla Torre Campo S. Stefano 3 T041.739.662. By general agreement, this trattoria is the ﬁnest restaurant on Murano – unfortunately, though, the kitchen is open for lunch only (noon–3pm). The set menu, at under €20, is a bargain. For the rest of the day it functions as a café-bar. Tues–Sun 9am–5pm.

Burano Al Gatto Nero Fondamenta Giudecca 88 T041.730.120. Founded in 1946, this is an outstanding trattoria, located just a minute’s walk from the busy Via Galuppi, opposite the Pescheria. It’s been run since the 1960s by Ruggero Bovo and his wife Lucia, who are now helped by their son Massimiliano, and what this family doesn’t know about the edible delicacies of the lagoon, and the

wines of the region, isn’t worth knowing. Closed Mon, 1 week in July, 2 weeks in Nov.

La Giudecca Mistrà Giudecca 212/A T041.522.0743. Occupying the light-ﬁlled upper storey of a former factory right in the thick of the Giudecca boatyards, Mistrà

gets steady custom from the dockyard workers at lunchtime, when the food is cheaper than in the evenings; the dinner menu is a more reﬁned offering of Venetian ﬁsh and seafood, plus some Ligurian dishes. No longer the secret it once was, Mistrà has been going rapidly upmarket – expect to pay around €40–50. Closed Mon evening & all Tues.

Bars

Al Volto Calle Cavalli 4081. This dark little bar is an enoteca in the true sense of the word – more than a thousand wines from Italy and elsewhere, with around one hundred of them served by the glass, some cheap, many not; good snacks, too. Mon–Sat 10am–3pm & 6.30–11pm. Bácaro Jazz Salizzada Fondaco dei Tedeschi 5546. A jazz-themed bar-restaurant that’s proved a big hit with Venetian kids, partly on account of its late hours; there’s food, but it’s far from the best quality. Daily 1pm–2am. I Rusteghi Corte del Tintor 5513. A new, small osteria, secreted away in a tiny courtyard close to Campo San Bartolomeo. Great cicheti, nice wine, congenial host – plus a few outside tables. The perfect place for a quiet snack in the San Marco area. Mon–Sat 10.30am–3pm & 6–9.30pm. Torino Campo San Luca 4591. During the daytime this is an unremarkable bar-café, but after 8pm it becomes the loud and lively Torino@Notte, with DJs and/or live music on Wed. Tues–Sat 8am–1am.

Dorsoduro Al Chioschetto Záttere al Ponte Lungo 1406/A. This waterfront bar is a kiosk with outdoor tables. An excellent place to sit with your spritz and a sandwich and watch the sun set over Giudecca. Has a DJ (and sometimes live music) on Wed, Fri & Sun from 6pm

in summer. Daily: June–Sept 7.30am–2am; Oct–May 7.30am–6pm – unless the weather’s bad, in which case it might not open at all. Café Blue Calle dei Preti 3778. Lively pub-like student haunt where afternoon teas and cakes are on offer as well as whiskies and good cocktails. Puts on art exhibitions, has a DJ one night per week, and hosts local bands on many Friday nights. Daily 8am–2am. Café Noir Crosera San Pantalon 3805. Another favourite student bar, similar in feel to the neighbouring Blue, often with live music on Tues. Open Mon–Sat 7am–2am, Sun 9am–2am. Cantina del Vino già Schiavi Fondamenta Nani 992. Known to all Venetians as the Cantinone, this is a great bar and wine shop opposite San Trovaso. Excellent cicheti and generously ﬁlled panini too. Mon–Sat 7.45am–10.30pm. Margaret DuChamp Campo S. Margherita 3019. Until neighbouring Orange opened for business opposite, DuChamp was undisputedly the ﬁrstchoice bar for the style-conscious, and even now it has kept its edge. Wi-ﬁ access – €3 for 30min. Wed–Mon 8am–2am.

| Eating and drinking

San Marco

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One of the most appealing aspects of Venetian social life is encapsulated in the phrase “andemo a ombra”, which translates literally as an invitation to go into the shade, but is in fact an invitation for a drink – more speciﬁcally, a small glass of wine (an ombra), customarily downed in one. (The phrase is a vestige of the time when wines were unloaded on the Riva degli Schiavoni and then sold at a shaded kiosk at the base of the Campanile; the kiosk was shifted as the sun moved round, so as to stay in the shade.) Most bars serve some kind of food, their counters usually bearing trays of the characteristically Venetian, fat little crustless sandwiches called tramezzini, which are stuffed with ﬁllings such as egg and mushroom, egg and anchovy, or Parma ham and artichoke. Many bars will have a selection of cicheti as well, and even two or three more substantial dishes. Venice is notoriously somnolent after dark, but are three areas in which you’ll ﬁnd a good concentration of lively bars: in and around Campo Santa Margherita; the Rialto market area; and in northern Cannaregio, along the canals to the north of the Ghetto.

San Polo and Santa Croce Ai Storti Calle San Matteo 819. A brisk, plain and genuine Rialto bácaro – not a place in which to while away an evening, but for a plate of cicheti

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and a glass of local wine it can’t be beaten. Has a small menu of meals, from just €10. Mon–Sat 8am–3.30pm & 5.15–9.30pm. Mercà Campo Cesare Battisti 213. This minuscule stand-up Rialto bar is perfect for a quick panino and glass of Prosecco. Mon–Sat 7am–3pm & 6–9pm, Sun 6–9pm. Da Lele Campo dei Tolentini 183. This tiny and utterly authentic stand-up bar attracts a lot of custom from workers en route to or from Piazzale Roma. Sandwiches and rolls made freshly to order, and wine by the glass from just €0.60. Mon–Sat 6am–8pm. Do Mori Calle Do Mori 429. Hidden just off Ruga Vecchia S. Giovanni, this is the most authentic old-style Venetian bar in the market area – some would say in the entire city. It’s a single narrow room, with no seating, packed every evening with home-bound shopworkers, Rialto porters, and locals just out for a stroll. Delicious snacks, great range of wines and terriﬁc atmosphere. Mon–Sat 8.30am–8pm.

Cannaregio

| Entertainment

Al Ponte Calle Larga G. Gallina 6378. Brilliant osteria between the Miracoli and Santi Giovanni e Paolo: one of the best in the area for a glass of wine and a light meal or snack. Mon–Sat 8am–8.30pm. Al Timon Fondamenta Ormesini 2753–54. The nearby Paradiso Perduto used to be the most

popular bar-restaurant in this part of town, but Timon – with its attractively spartan neo-traditional decor, good wines and appetizing (if not inexpensive) menu – has stolen its thunder of late. 11am–1am; closed Wed morning. La Cantina Strada Nova 3689. Welcoming enoteca with a good range of wines, substantial and excellent snacks, and its own custom-brewed beer. Mon–Sat 10am–10pm. Un Mondo diVino Salizzada San Canciano 5984/A. Occupying a marble-fronted and wood-beamed old butcher’s shop, this brilliant little bácaro has rapidly built up a great reputation, for its fantastic array of cicheti, its choice selection of wines, and the warmth of its staff. Wed–Mon 10am–midnight.

Castello Al Portego Calle Malvasia 6015. In the middle of the day this bar is crammed with customers eating cicheti and in the evening there’s often a queue for a place at one of the tiny tables, where some well-prepared basics (pasta, risotto, fegato alla veneziana, etc) are served. No bookings. Daily 10.30am–3pm & 5.30–10pm. Enoteca Mascareta Calle Lunga Santa Maria Formosa 5183. First-rate and perpetually busy wine bar with delicious cicheti and a small menu of more substantial fare. Daily 7am–1am.

Entertainment Venice is not a city for nightlife. It has not a single club, and though there’s a number of late-opening bars with DJs or live music (see p.305), strict bylaws against late-night noise mean that the gig often entails nothing wilder than an aspiring singer-songwriter on acoustic guitar. The Teatro Malibran stages concerts by Italian rock outﬁts from time to time, but bands rarely come nearer than Padua, and the biggest names tend to favour Verona. Music in Venice, to all intents and purposes, means classical music.

Opera and classical music

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La Fenice (W www.teatrolafenice.it) is the third-ranking Italian opera house (after Milan’s La Scala and Naples’ San Carlo) and Venice’s top music venue, yet its prices are far from exclusive: good seats can be had for €50–60 on most nights, and for little more than €10 you can get a seat with a restricted view of the stage. You’ll pay much more for the opening night of a production than you would for the same seat later in the run (midweek prices are the lowest). The opera season runs from late November to the end of June, punctuated by ballet performances. Tickets can be bought at the Fenice box office, the Piazza tourist office, and the VeLa/ACTV offices at Piazzale Roma and the train station. The city’s major venues for classical music concerts are the Sale Apollinee in La Fenice, and the Teatro Malibran (W www.teatrolafenice.it), behind the church of San Giovanni Crisostomo. Tickets for the Malibran can be bought in advance from

Film

Festivals and events The Carnevale and the Film Festival might be the best publicized of the city’s festivals, but the calendar is strewn with other special events, most of them with religious or commemorative origins. Venice also has numerous venues for temporary shows, of which Palazzo Grassi (see p.281) is the best known.

| Festivals and events

The old Rossini cinema, close to Campo Manin, is due to reopen in 2012 as a three-screener, but in the meantime the only cinema in central Venice is the two-screen Giorgione, close to Santi Apostoli at Rio Terrà dei Franceschi 4612/A, Cannaregio (T 041.522.6298); the tiny Sala B is used for less mainstream ﬁlms, and non-dubbed English-language ﬁlms are shown on Tuesdays from October to May. From around mid-July to the end of August an open-air cinema in Campo San Polo shows dubbed or Italian-language ﬁlms.

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the same outlets as tickets for the Fenice. The Malibran’s own ticket office sells tickets only on the night of the concert, from around one hour before the start. Music performances at the Goldoni (box office Mon–Sat 9.30am–12.30pm & 4–6pm; T 041.520.5422, W www.teatrostabileveneto.it) are somewhat less frequent than at La Fenice and the Malibran; the repertoire here tends to be more populist, with a jazz series cropping up every now and then. For most of the year the Goldoni specializes in the works of the eponymous writer. Classical concerts, with a very strong bias towards the eighteenth century (and Vivaldi in particular – hardly a day goes by without a performance of The Four Seasons) – are also performed at the Palazzo Prigione Vecchie, the Scuola Grande di San Giovanni Evangelista, the Scuola Grande di San Rocco, Palazzo Mocenigo (San Stae) and the churches of Santo Stefano, the Frari, San Stae, San Samuele, San Vidal, San Giacomo di Rialto, San Bartolomeo, Zitelle, San Barnaba and the Ospedaletto. The average ticket price for these concerts is around €25 (usually with a reduction for students and children).

Carnevale Venice’s Carnevale (W www.carnivalofvenice.com) occupies the ten days leading up to Lent, ﬁnishing on Shrove Tuesday with a masked ball for the glitterati and dancing in the Piazza for the plebs. After falling out of fashion for many years, it was revived in 1979 and is now supported by the city authorities who organize various pageants and performances. Apart from these events, Carnevale is an endless parade: during the day people don costumes and go to the Piazza to be photographed, while business types do their shopping in the classic white mask, black cloak and tricorn hat. In the evening some congregate in the remoter squares, while those who have spent hundreds of pounds on their costumes install themselves in the windows of Florian and pose. Masks are on sale throughout the year, but special mask and costume shops magically appear during Carnevale, and Campo San Maurizio sprouts a marquee with mask-making demonstrations and a variety of designs for sale.

The Film Festival The Venice Film Festival (W www.labiennale.org) – the world’s oldest, founded in 1932 – takes place on the Lido every year in late August and/or early September. Tickets are available to the general public on the day before the performance, at

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the Palazzo del Cinemà and PalaBiennale ticket offices. Any remaining tickets are sold off at PalaGalileo one hour before the screening, but nearly all seats are taken well before then.

The Biennale

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The Venice Biennale (W www.labiennale.org), set up in 1895 as a showpiece for international contemporary art, is held from June to November of every odd-numbered year. Its permanent site in the Giardini Pubblici has pavilions for about forty countries (the largest for Italy’s representatives), plus a thematic international exhibition. Supplementing this central part are events at venues all over the city: the salt warehouses on the Záttere, for instance, or the Corderie in the Arsenale. In even-numbered years the city hosts an architecture Biennale, a smaller-scale event which usually runs from September to November; this overlaps with a short music Biennale, and is preceded by a two-week dance Biennale (usually in June).

La Sensa

| Festivals and events

From the twelfth century until the fall of the Republic, Ascension Day was marked by the ceremony of The Marriage of Venice to the Sea, a ritual which was followed by a huge trade-fair called the Fiera della Sensa (Sensa being dialect for Ascension). Today the feast of La Sensa happens on the Sunday after Ascension Day, and features a feeble modern version of the ceremony, plus a gondola regatta. Far more spectacular is the Vogalonga or “long row”, held a week later. Established in 1974, the Vogalonga is open to any crew in any class of rowing boat, and covers a 32-kilometre course from the Bacino di San Marco out to Burano and back, with the competitors setting off from in front of the Palazzo Ducale around 9am.

The Regata Storica Held on the ﬁrst Sunday in September, the Regata Storica is the annual trial of strength and skill for the city’s gondoliers and other expert rowers. It starts with a procession of historic craft along the Canal Grande course, their crews all decked out in period dress, followed by a series of races up the canal. The opening parade is a spectacular affair, and is followed by a race for young rowers in two-oared pupparini; the women come next (in boats called mascarete), followed by a race for canoe-like caorline; and then it’s the men’s race, in specialized two-man racing gondolas called gondolini.

Religious festivals

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Named after the church of the Salute (see p.283), La Festa della Salute is a reminder of the devastating plague of 1630–31. Every November 21 people process to the church, crossing the Canal Grande on a temporary bridge, to give thanks for good health or to pray for the sick. Another plague-related festival, La Festa del Redentore marks the end of the 1576 epidemic. Celebrated on the third Sunday in July, the day is centred on the church of the Redentore, which was built by way of thanksgiving for the city’s deliverance. A bridge of boats is strung across the Giudecca canal to allow the faithful to walk over to the church, and on the preceding Saturday night hundreds of people row out for a picnic on the water. The night ends with a grand ﬁreworks display, after which it’s traditional to make for the Lido to watch the sun rise.

Listings

| Listings • The Veneto

Laundry Effe Erre, south of Campo Santa Maria Formosa, at Ruga Giuffa 4826 (daily 8.30am–8pm). Left luggage The desk at the end of platform 14 in the train station (6am–midnight) charges €3.80/5hr, then €0.60/hr for the next 6hr, and €0.20/hr thereafter. The ofﬁce on Piazzale Roma (6am–9pm) charges €3.50/24hr. Lost property If you lose anything on the train or at the station, call T041.785.531; on buses, call T 041.272.2838; at the airport, call T041.260.9222; on vaporetti, call T041.272.2179; and anywhere in the city itself, call the town hall on T 041.274.8225. Police To notify police of a theft or lost passport, report to the questura at Rampa Santa Chiara 500, on the north side of Piazzale Roma (T041.271.5511); in an emergency, ring T113. There’s a small police station on the Piazza, at no. 63. Post ofﬁces Venice’s main post ofﬁce is in the Fondaco dei Tedeschi, near the Rialto Bridge (Mon–Sat 8.30am–6.30pm). The principal branches are in Calle dell’Ascensione, at Záttere 1406, and by the Piazzale Roma vaporetto stops (all Mon–Fri 8.30am–6pm, Sat 8.30am–1pm). Public toilets There are toilets on or very near to most of the main squares, signposted by green and white “WC” stickers on the walls or ground. Public toilets cost €1.50, and many are staffed; note that the Venice Card (see p.265) gives two daily free visits to staffed toilets. The main facilities are at Piazzale Roma; in the Giardinetti Reali, by the main tourist ofﬁce; off the west side of the Piazza; on Campo Rialto Nuovo; and on the west side of the Accademia bridge.

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Banks Banks are concentrated along a chain of squares and alleyways between Campo S. Bartolomeo and Campo Manin. Hours are generally Mon–Fri 8.30am–1.30pm & 2.30–3.30pm. Consulates and embassies The British consulate is in Mestre at Piazzale Donatori di Sangue 2–5 (T 041.505.5990); this ofﬁce is staffed by an honorary consul – the closest full consulate is in Milan (see p.168). The nearest US consulate is also in Milan (see p.168), but there’s a consular agency at Marco Polo airport (T041.541.5944). Travellers from Ireland, Australia, New Zealand and Canada should contact their Rome embassies (see p.680). Exchange There are exchange bureaux near San Marco, the Rialto and the train station. Rates tend to be steep, with the exception of Travelex, which can be found at no. 142 on the Piazza, at Riva del Ferro 5126 (by the Rialto Bridge), and at the airport. Hospital Ospedale Civile, Campo SS Giovanni e Paolo; T041.529.4111. Internet Many hotels and hostels now offer free internet access, and internet points (usually €6–8/hr) are all over the city, especially around Campo Santa Margherita and Campo San Barnaba. San Marco: Venetian Navigator, Calle dei Stagneri 5239 (daily 10am–8.30pm); Dorsoduro: TheNetGate, Crosera S. Pantalon 3812 (Mon–Sat 10.30am–8.30pm); Logic Internet, Calle del Traghetto 2799 (daily 10am–8.30pm); San Polo: Internet@café, Calle del Campaniel 2898 (daily 10am–9pm); Cannaregio: Planet Internet, Rio Terà San Leonardo 1519 (daily 9am–11pm); Castello: Venetian Navigator, Calle Casselleria 5300 (daily: summer 10am–10pm; winter 10am–7.30pm).

The Veneto Virtually every acre of the Veneto bears the imprint of Venetian rule – Venice dominated this region for centuries and is still the capital of the province today. In Belluno, right under the crags of the Dolomites, the style of the buildings declares the town’s former allegiance, while the Lion of St Mark looks over the market square of Verona, on the Veneto’s western edge. On the ﬂatlands of the Po basin (the southern border of the region) and on farming estates all over the Veneto, the elegant villas of the Venetian nobility are still standing. Yet the Veneto is as diverse culturally as it is geographically. The aspects of Verona that make the city so attractive were created long before the expansion of Venice’s terra ﬁrma empire, and in Padua – a university seat since the thirteenth

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century – the civilization of the Renaissance displays a character quite distinct from that which evolved in Venice. Even in Vicenza, which reached its present form mainly during its long period of subservience, the very appearance of the streets is proof of a fundamental independence. Nowadays this is one of Italy’s wealthiest regions. Verona, Padua, Vicenza and Treviso, 30km north of Venice, are all major industrial and commercial centres, while intensive dairies, fruit farms and vineyards (around Conegliano, for example) have made the Veneto a leading agricultural producer too. The Veneto’s densest concentration of industry is at Mestre and Marghera, the grim conurbation through which road and rail lines from Venice pass before spreading out over the mainland. It’s less a city than an economic life-support system for Venice, and the negative impression you get on your way through is entirely valid. Some people trim their holiday expenses by staying in Mestre’s cheaper hotels (Venice’s tourist offices will supply addresses), but venturing further inland is a more pleasurable cost-cutting exercise.

The Brenta

| The Brenta

The southernmost of the three main rivers that empty into the Venetian lagoon, the Brenta caused no end of trouble for the earliest settlers in the area, with its frequent ﬂooding and its deposits of silt. By the sixteenth century, though, the canalization of the river had brought it under control, and it became a favoured building site for the Venetian aristocracy. Some villas were built as a combination of summer residence and farmhouse – many, however, were intended solely for the former function. Around one hundred villas are left on the river between Padua and Venice, though only a handful are open to the public. Of this last category, two are outstanding – the Villa Fóscari and the Villa Pisani – both of which are accessible by bus from Venice: four ACTV services go to the former, while the hourly buses between Padua and Venice (the ACTV bus going via Dolo, not the SITA bus that goes on the autostrada) go past both. From March to October, several companies organize boat tours along the Brenta (see W www.battellidelbrenta.it and www.ilburchiello.it), but they cost more than €80 and stop longer for lunch (not included) than at any of the villas.

Villa Fóscari

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The Villa Fóscari at Malcontenta (May–Oct Tues & Sat 9am–noon; €10) was designed in 1559 by Palladio (see box, p.322) and is the nearest of his villas to Venice. Most of Palladio’s villas fall into two broad groups: those built on cohesive farming estates, with a central low block for living quarters and wings for storage and associated uses, such as the Villa Barbaro at Masèr (see p.339); and the singleblock villas built for landowners whose ﬁelds were dispersed or unsuitable for the construction of a major building. The Villa Fóscari is the masterpiece of this second group, evoking the architecture of ancient Rome with its rusticated exterior, massive Ionic portico and two-storey main hall. The frescoes in the living rooms include what is said to be a portrait of a woman of the Fóscari family who was exiled here as punishment for an amorous escapade, and whose subsequent misery was the source of the name Malcontenta. The reality is more prosaic – the area has long been known by that name, either because of some local discontent over the development of the land or because of the political malcontenti who hid in the nearby salt marshes.

Villa Pisani

Hemmed in by the sprawl that has accompanied its development as the most important economic centre of the Veneto, PADUA (Padova) is not immediately the most alluring city in northern Italy. It is, however, one of the most ancient, and plentiful evidence remains of its impressive lineage. A large student population creates a young, vibrant atmosphere, and yet in spite of having two big attractions – the Giotto frescoes and the Basilica of St Antony – Padua has the feel of a town that is just getting on with its own business.

| Padua (Padova)

Padua (Padova)

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The Villa Pisani (or Nazionale) at Stra (Tues–Sun: April–Sept 9am–7pm; Oct– March 9am–4pm; €10 house and garden, €7.50 garden only), virtually on the outskirts of Padua (ask the bus driver where to get off ), looks more like a product of the ancien régime than a house for the Venetian gentry. Commissioned when Alvise Pisani was elected Doge of Venice in 1735, it was the biggest such residence to be built in Venetian territory during that century. It has appealed to megalomaniacs ever since: Napoleon bought it off the Pisani in 1807 and handed it over to Eugène Beauharnais, his stepson and Viceroy of Italy; and in 1934 it was chosen for the ﬁrst meeting of Mussolini and Hitler. Most of what you see is unexciting and sparsely furnished, but stick with it for the ballroom, its ceiling covered with a dazzling fresco, The Apotheosis of the Pisani Family, painted by Tiepolo at the age of 66. And if you’re trying to puzzle out what’s going on – the Pisani family, accompanied by Venice, are being courted by the Arts, Sciences and Spirits of Peace, while Fame plays a fanfare in praise of the Pisani and the Madonna looks on with appropriate pride. In the grounds, the long ﬁsh-pond ends in front of a stable-block which from a distance might be mistaken for another grand house. Off to the right there’s an impressive maze, which is closed in winter.

Some history

A Roman municipium from 45 BC, the city thrived until the barbarian onslaughts and the subsequent Lombard invasion at the start of the seventh century. Recovery was slow, but by the middle of the twelfth century, when it became a free commune, Padua was prosperous once again. Italy’s second oldest university was founded here in 1221, and a decade later the city became a place of pilgrimage following the death here of St Anthony.

PadovaCard Costing €15 for 48 hours or €20 for 72 hours, the PadovaCard (Wwww.padovacard .it) allows one free visit for one adult and one child (under 14) to twelve sights in the city, including the Musei Civici degli Eremitani, Scrovegni Chapel (plus €1 advance booking fee), and Palazzo della Ragione. There are further discounts on the other main attractions in the city and region, as well as free parking in the three main car parks, free travel on APS buses and trams, discounted bicycle rental and discounts on some B&Bs and restaurants. It’s available from the tourist ofﬁces, at Marco Polo airport, at the Musei Civici degli Eremitani, at the Baptistry of the Duomo and online. A family card, costing €25 for 15 days, is also valid for the main sights and can be bought at the Musei Civici degli Eremitani.

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In 1337 the Da Carrara family established control. Under their domination, Padua’s cultural eminence was secured – Giotto, Dante and Petrarch were among those attracted here – but Carraresi territorial ambitions led to conﬂict with Venice, and in 1405 the city’s independence ended with its conquest by the neighbouring republic. Though politically nulliﬁed, Padua remained an artistic and intellectual centre: Donatello and Mantegna both worked here, and in the seventeenth century Galileo researched at the university, where the medical faculty was one of the most ambitious in Europe. With the fall of the Venetian Republic the city passed to Napoleon and then to the Austrians, who ruled until Padua was annexed to Italy in 1866. Bombed several times by the Allies in World War II, the city has been extensively restored.

Arrival and information

Accommodation

Hotels Al Fagiano Via Locatelli 45 T049.875.0073, Wwww.alfagiano.com. A friendly two-star, with forty rooms over three ﬂoors, each ﬂoor decorated in a different colour and with a bizarre selection of art. The rooms vary in size; ask for no. 72, with its own large terrace. 2 Belludi 37 Via Luca Belludi 37 T 049.665.633, W www.belludi37.it. This slickly renovated palazzo near the Basilica di Sant’Antonio has 15 tasteful rooms decorated in neutral tones. All rooms are spacious, with high ceilings, luxurious bathrooms and DVD players, but it’s worth paying the extra for views of the basilica; the best is no. 107, with its own balcony. 3 –4 Casa del Pellegrino Via M. Cesarotti 21 T 049.823.9711, W www.casadelpellegrino.com. The “Pilgrim’s House”, popular with groups coming to pay their respects to St Anthony across the road, is somewhat reminiscent of student accommodation, though the rooms are comfortable and most have en-suite bathrooms. It’s worth paying an extra €5 for the more spacious “superior” rooms in the annexe. 2 Dante Via San Polo 5 T 049.876.0408, W www .hoteldante.eu. Eight airy rooms, not all en suite, in a quiet quarter of town within the city walls. The friendly signora speaks no English but she keeps her one-star establishment clean. 1

Majestic Toscanelli Via dell’Arco 2 T049.663.244, Wwww.toscanelli.com. The most appealing of the city’s four-stars, with elegant, well-appointed rooms; it’s located in the old Jewish quarter, just south of Piazza delle Erbe. 5 Mignon Via Luca Belludi 22 T 049.661.722, Wwww.hotelmignonpadova.it. Lying between the Prato della Valle and the botanic garden, this simple but comfortable two-star has 23 rooms with a/c and TV. Most rooms overlook the street; those at the back are quieter. 2 Sant’Antonio Via San Fermo 118 T049.875.1393, Wwww.hotelsantantonio.it. Large rooms with unfussy decor; those at the back have views over the canal and the lovely Ponte Molino. The nicest rooms are nos. 311 and 312, on two levels, with a small sitting area upstairs. 3 Torresino Via A. Aleardi 35 T049.981.6086, Wwww.bb-padova.it. The three rooms at this cosy B&B are furnished traditionally, with parquet ﬂoors and antique-style beds; one has its own bathroom and one a sunny private terrace. Fresh ﬂowers and free chocolates in the rooms add to the appeal. For directions, see Ostello Città di Padova, below. 2 Verdi Via Dondi dell’Orologio 7 T049.836.4163, Wwww.albergoverdipadova.it. Light and airy, this fully modernized small three-star is located on a quiet street near the Teatro Verdi. 3

| Padua (Padova)

Though rooms are cheaper in Padua than Venice, availability can be a problem, especially during high season or during festivals. Don’t despair, however – Padua has plenty of reasonably priced hotels and a growing number of bed and breakfasts; the tourist office has a full list of both. Many of the B&Bs are out in the suburbs, but they usually have good links to the centre; some places offer a small reduction on stays of more than two nights with the PadovaCard (see box, p.311).

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Trains arrive in the north of the town, just a few minutes’ walk up Corso del Popolo from the old city walls. The main bus station is at Piazzale Boschetti, immediately north of the walls to the east of the Corso; however, local buses for the city and nearby towns such as Ábano and Montegrotto leave from outside the train station. A new system of electric trams (Metrobus) is slowly being introduced to the city; the ﬁrst line runs between the station and Prato della Valle. There are tourist offices at Piazzetta Pedrocchi in the town centre (Mon–Sat 9am–1.30pm & 3–7pm; T 049.876.7927, W www.turismopadova.it), at the train station, on the right as you exit (Mon–Sat 9am–7pm, Sun 9am–12.30pm; T 049.875.2077), and on Piazza del Santo (April–Oct Mon–Sat 9am–1.30pm & 3–6pm, Sun 10am–1pm & 3–6pm; T 049.875.3087). You can rent bikes at the station (discounts with PadovaCard), and internet access is available east of the centre at Internet Point Padova, Via Altinate 145, opposite Santa Soﬁa church (Mon–Sat 10am–midnight, Sun 4pm–midnight; €3/ hr), or you can get ﬁfteen minutes online free at the Piazzetta Pedrocchi tourist office.

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Hostel and campsite Ostello Città di Padova Via A. Aleardi 30 T 049.875.2219, W www.ostellopadova.it. Padua’s quiet and friendly HI hostel is a good 30min walk from the train station. Alternatively, take the tram (or bus #3, #8, #12 or #18, or #32 on Sun) to Prato della Valle, from where it’s a short walk northwest. Check-in 7.15–9.30am & 4.30–11pm (Sat & Sun 4.30–11pm only), though on weekdays you can drop off your luggage outside of these times.

11.30pm curfew. Reservations by phone or via Wwww.hostelbookers.com or www.hostelsclub .com. Dorm beds €19, including breakfast. Montegrotto Terme Via Roma 123/25 T049.793.400, Wwww.sportingcenter.it. This is the nearest campsite to Padua – 15km south of the city centre, but frequent trains take around 15min; a very upmarket site, it not only has a swimming pool but thermal baths too. Open March to mid-Nov. €12.50 per tent, plus €8.75 per person per night.

V E NI C E AND THE V E NE TO

The City From the train station, Corso del Popolo and its extension Corso Garibaldi lead south, passing the seventeen-metre-tall structure of glass and steel designed by the architect Daniel Libeskind as a memorial to the victims of the September 11 attacks. Named Memory and Light, it contains part of a girder salvaged from the World Trade Center. A couple of minutes’ walk from here are two of the city’s biggest draws, the Cappella degli Scrovegni and Musei Civici degli Eremitani. A further ten minutes down the Corso takes you to a cluster of attractions around the central squares, with Padua’s other major sight, the Basilica di Sant’Antonio ten minutes’ walk southeast.

| Padua (Padova)

The Cappella degli Scrovegni

The Cappella degli Scrovegni (daily: March to mid-June, Aug–Oct & ﬁrst half of Dec 9am–10pm; rest of year 9am–7pm; for prices, see box below) was commissioned in 1303 by Enrico Scrovegni in atonement for his father’s usury, which was so vicious that he was denied a Christian burial. Giotto was commissioned to cover the walls with illustrations of the life of Mary, the life of Jesus and the story of the Passion, and the ﬁnished cycle is one of the high points in the development of European art. The frescoes are a marvellous demonstration of Giotto’s innovative attention to the inner nature of his subjects. In terms of sheer physical presence and the relationships between the ﬁgures and their environment, Giotto’s work takes the ﬁrst important strides towards realism and humanism. The Joachim series on the top row of the north wall (facing you as you walk in) is particularly powerful – note the exchange of looks between the two shepherds in

Tickets for the Cappella degli Scrovegni

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Tickets include entrance to the Musei Civici degli Eremitani and Palazzo Zuckermann (€13, or €8 on Mon and after 7pm when the museum is shut; €1 with PadovaCard) and have to be reserved at least 24 hours in advance, or three days in advance in high season (April to mid-June), although it’s always worth turning up even if you haven’t reserved, as there may be space. You can book by phoning T049.201.0020 (Mon–Fri 9am–7pm, Sat 9am–6pm), online at Wwww.cappelladegliscrovegni.it, or at the tourist ofﬁce. Tickets must be picked up from the museum ticket ofﬁce an hour before your timed entry; be at the chapel waiting room ten minutes before your allotted time. Groups of 25 are admitted every ﬁfteen minutes (every 20min after 7pm), and if you miss your slot you have to book and pay again. Once inside, the air humidity of the waiting room is adjusted down to that of the chapel, while you watch a video about the frescoes, with just a meagre ﬁfteen minutes allowed inside the chapel itself: you can, however, book a double session or “doppio turno” (€13) after 7pm, if you want more time to take in the frescoes.

the Arrival of Joachim. Beneath the main pictures are shown the vices and virtues in human (usually female) form, while on the wall above the door is a Last Judgement – in rather poor condition and thought to be only partly by Giotto. At the bottom is a portrait of Scrovegni presenting the chapel; his tomb is at the far end, behind the altar with its statues by Giovanni Pisano. The Musei Civici degli Eremitani and Palazzo Zuckermann

| Padua (Padova)

The Chiesa degli Eremitani

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Next to the chapel, the Musei Civici degli Eremitani (Tues–Sun 9am–7pm; €10, or €13 including Cappella degli Scrovegni and Palazzo Zuckermann; free with PadovaCard), formerly the monastery of the Eremitani, is a well-presented museum complex that holds the Museo Archeologico and the Museo d’Arte Medioevale e Moderna. The archeological collection, on the ground ﬂoor, has an array of pre-Roman, Roman and paleo-Christian objects. Upstairs, the vast Museo d’Arte houses an assembly of fourteenth- to nineteenth-century art from the Veneto and further aﬁeld. The collection is arranged in chronological order, and it’s a long walk through tracts of workaday stuff, but works by names such as Titian, Tintoretto and Tiepolo leaven the mix. Highlights are the Giotto Cruciﬁxion that was once in the Scrovegni chapel, and a ﬁne Portrait of a Young Senator by Bellini. The Capodilista collection, an offshoot of the main gallery, has four mysterious Titian and Giorgione landscapes, and some good Luca Giordano grotesques. Across Corso Garibaldi, the recently restored Palazzo Zuckermann (same ticket and hours as the Musei Civici degli Eremitani, but opens at 10am) houses two small museums of specialist interest: the new Museo di Arti Applicate e Decorative displays pottery, jewellery, textiles and furniture, while upstairs, the Museo Bottacin contains over 100,000 coins, medals and seals, making it one of the most important museums of its type in the world. Next door to the Musei Civici, the church of the Eremitani (Mon–Fri 7.30am–12.30pm & 3.30–7pm, Sat & Sun 9am–12.30pm & 4–7pm; free), built at the turn of the fourteenth century, was wrecked by an Allied bombing raid in 1944 but has been fastidiously rebuilt. The worst aspect of the bombardment was the damage to Mantegna’s frescoes of the lives of St James and St Christopher; some 80,000 fresco fragments were meticulously pieced together in 2008, creating the jigsaw puzzle-like reconstruction that is preserved in the chapel to the right of the high altar. The central squares

Continuing down the Corso Garibaldi and turning right leads you past the Caffè Pedrocchi, once the city’s main intellectual salon; it’s no longer that, but it does have a multiplicity of functions – chic café, concert hall, museum of local history and conference centre. Just beyond, the Piazza della Frutta and Piazza delle Erbe, the sites of Padua’s daily markets, are lined with bars, restaurants and shops. Separating them is the extraordinary Palazzo della Ragione or Il Salone (Tues–Sun 9am–7pm; €4, or more if there is an exhibition in the hall; free with PadovaCard), which you enter by the stairs at the eastern end of Piazza delle Erbe. When it was built in the 1210s, this vast hall was the largest room to have been built on top of another storey. Its decoration would once have been as astounding as its size, but the original frescoes by Giotto and his assistants were destroyed by ﬁre in 1420, though some by Giusto de’ Menabuoi have survived. Most of the extant frescoes are by Nicolò Miretto depicting an astrological calendar distinctively medieval in its complexity. Mainly used as the city council’s assembly hall, it was also a place where Padua’s citizens could plead for justice – hence the appellation della Ragione, meaning

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“of reason”. The large wooden horse with disproportionately gigantic gonads is modelled on Donatello’s Gattamelata, and was made for a joust in 1466. There’s a useful information screen about the frescoes and the horse in one corner of the hall. The Duomo and baptistry

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Padua’s Duomo (Mon–Sat 7.30am–noon & 4–7.30pm, Sun 8am–1pm & 4–8pm; free) is an unlovely church whose architect took his design from drawings by Michelangelo. The adjacent Romanesque baptistry, however, is one of the unproclaimed delights of the city (daily 10am–6pm; €2.80, free with PadovaCard). Built by the Da Carraras in the thirteenth century, and still in use today, it’s lined with fourteenth-century frescoes by Giusto de’ Menabuoi, a cycle which makes a fascinating comparison with the Cappella degli Scrovegni. In striving for greater realism Giusto has lost Giotto’s monumentality and made some of his ﬁgures unconvincing, yet many of the scenes are delightful, and the vibrancy of their colours, coupled with the relative quiet of the building, make for a memorable visit. The university

| Padua (Padova)

The area just southeast of the Caffè Pedrocchi is dominated by the main block of the university, the Palazzo del Bò (“the Ox”, named after an inn that used to stand here). Established in September 1221, the University of Padua is older than any other in Italy except that of Bologna. The ﬁrst permanent anatomy theatre was built here in 1594, a facility that doubtless greatly helped William Harvey, who went on to develop the theory of blood circulation after taking his degree here in 1602. Galileo taught physics at the university from 1592 to 1610, declaiming from a lectern that is still on show. And in 1678 Elena Lucrezia Corner Piscopia became the ﬁrst woman in the world to collect a university degree – her statue is in the courtyard. The Bò is only open for guided tours (March–Oct Mon, Wed & Fri 3.15pm, 4.15pm & 5.15pm, Tues, Thurs & Sat 9.15am, 10.15am & 11.15am; Nov–Feb the 9.15am and 5.15pm tours do not run; €5); tickets (no reservations) are on sale ﬁfteen minutes beforehand – the ticket office is by the bar in the more modern of the two courtyards and is well signposted. The Prato della Valle and Santa Giustina

Past the palazzo, Via VIII Febbraio turns into Via Roma and then Via Umberto I, before opening up into the sprawling Prato della Valle, claimed to be the largest town square in Italy. It’s a generally cheerless area, ringed by very wide roads, but the vast Saturday market and the summer funfair do a lot to make it jollier. It’s also a favourite place for the passeggiata on summer evenings, and the location of an antiques fair on the third Sunday of each month. One side of the square is fronted by the sixteenth-century Basilica di Santa Giustina (Mon–Sat 8am–noon & 3–6pm, Sun 6.30am–1pm & 3–8pm; free). A pair of ﬁfteenth-century griffins, one holding a knight and the other a lion, are the only notable adornments to the unclad brick facade; the interior has little of interest except a huge Martyrdom of St Justina by Paolo Veronese (in the apse), some highly proﬁcient carving on the choir stalls, and the sarcophagus which once contained the relics of Luke the Evangelist (apse of left transept). The Basilica di Sant’Antonio

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At the far end of Via Belludi on Piazza del Santo towers the Basilica di Sant’Antonio, or Il Santo (daily 6.20am–7.45pm, closes 7pm Mon–Fri Oct– March; free). Within eighteen months of his death in 1231, St Anthony had been canonized and his tomb was attracting enough pilgrims to warrant the building of the basilica. It was not until the start of the fourteenth century that the church reached a state that enabled the saint’s body to be placed in the Cappella del Santo (in the left transept). Plastered with such votive offerings as photographs of healed

Just northeast of the basilica, at Via Cesarotti 37, is the recently restored Loggia e Odeo Cornaro (daily except Mon 10am–1pm; also Sat & Sun Feb–Oct 4–7pm, Nov–Jan 3–6pm); visits every 30min, on the hour and half-hour; €3, free with PadovaCard), the remains of an extensive complex of buildings and gardens commissioned in 1524–30 by Alvise Cornaro, a local landowner, architectural theoretician and patron of the arts. The Loggia, with its stuccoed mythological ﬁgures, was designed to host theatrical performances, while the octagonal Odeon, with its splendidly frescoed interior, was dedicated to musical entertainment and cultural debate. To the left as you leave the basilica, are the Oratorio di San Giorgio (daily 9am–12.30pm & 2.30–7pm, but closes 5pm Nov–March; €2.50, or €2 with PadovaCard; €4 joint ticket with Scoletta del Santo, or €3.50 with PadovaCard) and Scoletta del Santo (daily 10am–noon & 3–5pm; same prices as the Oratorio). The Scoletta was founded soon after Anthony’s canonization, though this building only goes back as far as the early ﬁfteenth century. The ground ﬂoor is still used for religious purposes, while upstairs is maintained to look pretty much as it would have in the sixteenth century, with its ﬁne ceiling and paintings dating mainly from 1509–15, three or four of which are thought to be by Titian. The oratory next door was founded in 1377 as a mortuary chapel; its frescoes, by Altichiero da Zevio and Jacopo Avanzi, were completed soon after and have been recently restored. One wall is adorned by the wonderfully titled St Lucy Remains Immovable at an Attempt to Drag Her with the Help of Oxen to a House of Ill Repute. Round the corner are the oldest botanic gardens in Europe, the Orto Botanico, on Via Donatello (April–Oct daily 9am–1pm & 3–7pm; Nov–March Mon–Sat 9am–1pm; €4, free with PadovaCard). Planted in 1545 by the university’s medical faculty as a collection of medicinal herbs, the gardens have mainly kept their original layout, and the specimens on show haven’t changed too much either. Goethe came here in 1786 to see a palm tree that had been planted in 1585; the selfsame tree still stands, the oldest in the garden.

| Padua (Padova)

Around the basilica

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limbs and car crashes survived with the saint’s intervention, the shrine has an uneasy, irresistible pull. The chapel’s more formal decoration includes the most important series of relief sculpture created in sixteenth-century Italy, a sequence of nine marble panels showing scenes from the life of St Anthony. Carved between 1505 and 1577, most have the names of their sculptors incised into the base, Antonio Lombardo, Tullio Lombardo and Jacopo Sansovino being among the most famous. Adjoining the chapel is the Cappella della Madonna Mora (named after its fourteenth-century French altar statue), which in turn gives onto the Cappella del Beato Luca, whose fourteenth-century frescoes include a lovely image of St James lifting a prison tower to free a prisoner. Back in the aisle, just outside the Cappella del Santo, is Padua’s ﬁnest work by Pietro Lombardo, the monument to Antonio Roselli (1467). More impressive still are the high altar’s bronze sculptures and reliefs by Donatello (1444–45), the works that introduced Renaissance classicism to Padua. Built onto the farthest point of the ambulatory, the Cappella del Tesoro houses the tongue and vocal chords of St Anthony, as well as a host of lesser relics. For more on St Anthony and the basilica, enter the cloisters (on the south side of the basilica) and follow the signs for the Museo Antoniano (daily: April–Oct 9am–1pm & 2.30–6.30pm; Nov–March 9am–1pm & 2–6pm; €2.50, €1.50 with PadovaCard), which includes a fresco of St Anthony and St Bernard by Mantegna. In front of the basilica stands Donatello’s Monument to Gattamelata (which translates literally as “The Honeyed Cat”), as the condottiere Erasmo da Narni was known. He died in 1443 and this monument was raised ten years later, the ﬁrst large bronze sculpture of the Renaissance.

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Eating, drinking and entertainment

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Catering for the midday stampede of ravenous students, Padua’s bars generally produce weightier snacks than the routine tramezzini – slabs of pizza and sandwiches vast enough to satisfy a glutton are standard; you’ll ﬁnd several amid the food stalls underneath the Palazzo della Ragione. For a passeggiata and a place to sit and watch the world go by, the main areas to head for are Piazza delle Erbe, Piazza del Duomo, Piazza Cavour and Prato della Valle. For nightlife, head for the centre and follow the throng, though the real action takes place in the lively student bars in the old Jewish Ghetto area around the central piazzas and the university. Padua’s main theatre is the Teatro Verdi (T 049.8777.0213, W www.teatrostabile veneto.it; closed in summer; tickets €10–27, discounts with PadovaCard) on Corso Milano, hosting opera and big-name dramatists; details of the season’s events can be obtained from the tourist office or in the bilingual information booklet Padova Today, distributed in tourist offices and most hotels. Of the local newspapers, the most comprehensive for listings is Il Mattino, but for more offbeat events check out the posters up around the city. Restaurants Al Duomo Via S.G. Barbarigo 18 T049.654.597. This small, bustling pizzeria has been given a trendy makeover, but it’s still packed with famished students enjoying the generous pizzas and salads. Tues–Sun 6pm–midnight. Anfora Via dei Soncin 13 T 049.656.629. A boisterous and very reasonable bohemian restaurant-bar that is deservedly popular – get there early or book in advance. Mon–Sat 12.45–2.45pm & 7.45–10.45pm. Belle Parti Via Belle Parti 11 T 049.875.1822. On a small street running between Via Verdi and Via Santa Lucia, this very elegant restaurant has an excellent menu and a relaxed atmosphere. But with mains at €22–28, it’s not cheap – the degustazione menu costs €50. Mon–Sat 12.30–2.30pm & 7.30–11pm. Gastronomica al Portego Via Dante 9. Highquality yet inexpensive self-service restaurant with local dishes sold by weight – a good spot for a quick lunch. Tues–Sat 8.30am–2.30pm & 5–8.30pm; closed Aug. La Piccola Trattoria Via R. Da Piazzola 21 T 049.656.163, Wwww.piccolatrattoria.it. Friendly place full of locals; it serves Sardinian specialities, all superbly presented. Secondi are around €15, but there are also cheap lunchtime specials. Mon 8–11pm, Tues–Sat noon–2.30pm & 8–11pm. Nane della Giulia Via Santa Soﬁa 1 T 049.660.742. Said to be Padua’s oldest osteria, this trendy yet unpretentious place specializes in regional and vegetarian specialities at reasonable prices. Summer garden. No credit cards. Tues 7pm–midnight, Wed–Sun 12.30–2.30pm & 7pm–midnight.

Osteria dal Capo Via Obizzi 2 T049.663.105. This small restaurant is renowned among locals for its homely cuisine. Regional ﬁsh dishes are a speciality (around €15), as well as a wide range of pasta dishes such as bigoli with duck ragù. Booking advised for dinner. Mon 7.30–10pm, Tues–Sat 12.30–2.30pm & 7.30–10.30pm. Osteria dei Fabbri Via dei Fabbri 13 T049.650.336. An excellent trattoria serving delicious, unfussy food at moderate prices; you’ll be lucky to get a seat at weekends if you haven’t booked. Mon–Sat noon–3pm & 7–10.30pm.

Cafés and bars Ai Dadi Via dei Soncin 35. The nightly happy hour (7–9pm), cheap snacks and loud music draw a young, lively crowd. Mon–Sat 5.30pm–midnight. Anfora Via dei Soncin 13. Also a restaurant (see above), this cosy, wood-panelled bar is a popular spot for an aperitivo and serves delicious snacks all day. Mon–Sat 9am–midnight. Bar Nazionale Piazza delle Erbe 40. A good place to start your evening, this tiny, unmarked bar on the northeast corner of Piazza delle Erbe attracts crowds to its outdoor tables. Daily 8am–11.30pm, closes 10.30pm in winter. Gelateria Grom Via Roma 101. The most exquisite ice cream in the city is made here, by the chain that started in Turin and is set to conquer the world. The lemon, vanilla and coffee ﬂavours have won awards. Mon–Fri noon–midnight, Sat & Sun 11.30am–midnight.

Vicenza

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Europe’s largest producer of textiles and the focus of Italy’s “Silicon Valley”, VICENZA is a very sleek city, where it can seem that every second car is a BMW. Prosperity hasn’t ruined the look of the city though, and the centre, still partly enclosed by medieval walls, today looks much as it did at the close of the eighteenth century. In 1404 Vicenza was absorbed by Venice, and the city’s numerous Gothic palaces reﬂect its status as a Venetian satellite. But in the latter half of the sixteenth century the city was transformed by the work of an architect who owed nothing to Venice and was to inﬂuence every succeeding generation – Andrea di Pietro, alias Palladio. The historic core is compact enough to be explored in a day, but the city and its environs really require a short stay to do them justice.

Arrival and information

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| Vicenza

The train station and bus terminus are a ten-minute walk southwest of the historic centre; head straight ahead through the park to reach Piazza del Castello. The helpful main tourist office is at the far end of Corso Palladio, alongside the entrance to the Teatro Olimpico, at Piazza Matteotti 12 (daily 9am–1pm & 2–6pm; T 0444.320.854, W www.vicenzae.org), with another branch at Piazza dei Signori 8 (daily 10am–2pm & 2.30–6.30pm): both organize Palladio-themed walks at weekends (in Italian, with audioguide in English; €11). For listings your

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best bet is the local free monthly City Lights (Italian only), available from Informagiovani at Levà degli Angeli 7, just round the corner from the Piazza Matteotti tourist office. You can access the internet at the Galla Duemila bookshop, Viale Roma 14 (Mon 3.30–7.30pm, Tues–Sat 9am–7.30pm; €2.50/hr), near the station.

Accommodation Vicenza is a big conference destination, and many of its hotels are stuck out in characterless suburbs, so it pays to be careful where you book. If you want to stay in the centre, book ahead, especially during the conference periods – January, May and September. Note also that some places close in August. V E NI C E AND THE V E NE TO

| Vicenza

Due Mori Contrà Do Rode 26 T 0444.321.886, W www.hotelduemori .com. With beautifully furnished rooms (some with shared bath), including two very spacious ones with disabled access, this graceful hotel is within a few metres of the Piazza dei Signori. It is only a two-star, but feels better than that. 1 –2 Giardini Via Giuriolo 10 T0444.326.458, W www.hotelgiardini.com. Recently renovated, this modern three-star at the southern end of Piazza Matteotti has comfortable a/c rooms – go for the quieter ones at the back. 4 Ostello Olimpico Vicenza Via Giuriolo 9 T 0444.540.222, W www.ostellovicenza.com. The only hostel in the centre of town is in a superb position just off Piazza Matteotti. Most

dorms have four beds per room, and free internet and breakfast are included. Reservations by email or phone; check in 3.15–10.30pm. Dorms €20, doubles 1 Palladio Contrà Oratorio dei Servi 25 T 0444.325.347, W www.hotel-palladio.it. Centrally located but in a quiet side-street, this sleek boutique hotel manages to combine minimalism with comfort in its 22 rooms. 5 Relais Santa Corona Contrà Santa Corona 19 T0444.324.678, W www.relaissantacorona.it. Opened in 2009, this nine-room hotel offers excellent value. Rooms are bright, spacious and expensively furnished, with luxurious bed-linen, ﬂat-screen TVs and swish bathrooms. 3

The City The main street of Vicenza, Corso Andrea Palladio, cuts right through the old centre from Piazza del Castello down to Piazza Matteotti, and is lined with palazzi, all of them now occupied by shops, offices and banks. Palladio’s last palace, the fragmentary Palazzo Porto-Breganze, stands on the southern side of Piazza Castello; no. 163 on the Corso, the Casa Cogollo, is confusingly known as the Casa del Palladio, though he never lived here and few people think he designed it. The Museo Civico and Teatro Olimpico

The Corso ends with one of the architect’s most imperious buildings, the Palazzo Chiericati (begun in 1551), now home of the Museo Civico, also known as the Pinacoteca (Tues–Sun 9am–5pm; see box below, for prices). The core of the picture collection is made up of Vicentine artists, none of whose work will knock you ﬂat on your back; it’s left to a few more celebrated names – Memling, Tintoretto, Veronese, Tiepolo – and some ﬁne ﬁfteenth-century painting to make the visit memorable.

The Card Musei

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To visit the Museo Civico, Teatro Olimpico, and Museo Naturalistico-Archeologico you’ll need to buy the €8 Card Musei (€12 for a family card), which also gives admission to the Palazzo Leoni Montanari, the Museo Diocesano and the Museo del Risorgimento. The Card Musei can be bought at the Teatro Olimpico and the Museo del Risorgimento and is valid for three days.

Piazza dei Signori

| Vicenza

At the hub of the city, the Piazza dei Signori, stands the most awesome of Palladio’s creations – the basilica (currently under restoration, but due for completion by autumn 2011). Designed in the late 1540s (but not ﬁnished until almost seventy years later), this was Palladio’s ﬁrst public project and the one that secured his reputation. The monumental regularity of the basilica disguises the fact that the Palladian building is effectively a stupendous piece of buttressing – the Doric and Ionic colonnades enclose the ﬁfteenth-century hall of the city council, an unstable structure that had deﬁed all previous attempts to prop it up. The vast Gothic hall is often used for contemporary architecture exhibitions. On Tuesdays a huge market ﬁlls the streets between the basilica and the Duomo, while on Thursdays a fruit and vegetable market occupies Piazza delle Erbe, behind the basilica; though if you’re shopping for picnic food, you’ll save money by going down the slope and over the river, where the shops are a good bit cheaper. A late Palladian building, the unﬁnished Loggia del Capitaniato, faces the basilica across the Piazza dei Signori. Built as accommodation for the Venetian military commander of the city, it’s decorated with reliefs in celebration of the Venetian victory over the Turks at Lépanto in 1571.

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Across the Piazza Matteotti is the one building in Vicenza you shouldn’t fail to go into – the Teatro Olimpico, the oldest indoor theatre in Europe (Tues–Sun 9am–5pm; sometimes open until 7pm July & Aug; entry with Card Musei). Approached in 1579 by the members of the Olympic Academy (a society dedicated to the study of the humanities) to produce a design for a permanent theatre, Palladio devised a covered amphitheatre based on his studies of Roman works. He died soon after work commenced, and the scheme was overseen by Scamozzi, who added the backstage perspective of a classical city, creating the illusion of long urban vistas by tilting the “streets” at an alarming angle. The theatre opened on March 3, 1585, and is still used for concerts in spring and plays in autumn.

The churches

Vicenza’s Duomo (Mon–Sat 10.30–11.45am & 3.30–6pm, Sun 3.30–5.15pm & 6–7.15pm; free) was bombed ﬂat in 1944 and, though carefully reconstructed after the war, it’s a rather gloomy place. More interesting is the Museo Diocesano opposite (Tues–Sun 10am–1pm & 2–6pm; €4 or Card Musei), which holds good archeological and ethnographic sections, as well as the usual displays of liturgical vestments and silverware. Two of the city’s ﬁnest paintings, which belong to the church of Santa Corona, are being displayed here during the church’s restoration: The Baptism of Christ, a late work by Giovanni Bellini, and The Adoration of the Magi, painted in 1573 by Paolo Veronese. A relic belonging to Santa Corona, a stray thorn from Christ’s crown which the church was built to house, is also on display here temporarily. Santa Corona, on the other side of the Corso Palladio (at the Piazza Matteotti end), is a Dominican church dating from the mid-thirteenth century. Although currently closed for restoration, the church’s main attractions can still be seen at the Museo Diocesano; its cloisters house a run-of-the-mill Museo NaturalisticoArcheologico (Tues–Sun 9am–5pm; see box opposite, for prices). The nearby Santo Stefano (Mon–Sat 9–10.30am & 3–6.30pm, Sun 9am–12.30pm & 3–6.30pm; free) contains the third of the city’s ﬁne church paintings: Palma Vecchio’s typically stolid and voluptuous Madonna and Child with Saints George and Lucy.

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Palladio

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Born in Padua in 1508, Andrea di Pietro (or della Gondola) began his career as an apprentice stonemason in Vicenza. At 30 he became the protégé of a local nobleman, Count Giangiorgio Trissino, who gave the architect his classicized name, Palladio. Tressino directed Palladio’s training and, perhaps most crucially, took him to Rome – the ﬁrst of many trips he made sketching imperial Roman remains. Between 1540 and his death in 1580, Palladio created around a dozen palaces and public buildings in Vicenza, nearly twenty villas in the countryside of the Veneto and the churches of the Redentore and San Giorgio Maggiore in Venice. But unlike the pioneers of Renaissance Classicism – architects such as Alberti, Brunelleschi and Bramante – Palladio’s reputation does not rest on a particular transformation of architectural style. Instead, his fame – and he is arguably the most inﬂuential architect in the world – rests on the way he perfected existing values of harmony and proportion. In particular, his lasting inﬂuence stems from I Quattro Libri dell’Architettura or “The Four Books of Architecture”, a treatise he published in 1570, towards the end of his career. Other architects had written important works of theory, but Palladio’s is unique in its practical applicability, serving almost as a textbook for Classical architecture. As the style spread into the rest of Europe and beyond, it was to Palladio’s book that architects like Inigo Jones (and later, Thomas Jefferson) turned, ﬁnding both inspiration and guidance in his examples.

| Vicenza

The palazzi and the parks

Santo Stefano faces a corner of the huge Palazzo Thiene, another of Palladio’s palaces (May, June & Sept Wed & Fri 9am–noon & 3–6pm, Sat 9am–noon; Oct–April Tues & Wed 9am–noon & 3–6pm; closed July & Aug; admission free, by advance booking only, on T 0444.542.131). It was planned to occupy the entire block down to Corso Palladio, but in the end work progressed no further than the addition of this wing to the existing ﬁfteenth-century house. Facing Palazzo Thiene is the Palazzo Barbaran da Porto (Wed–Sun 10am–6pm; during exhibitions hours vary; €3, or €5 for exhibitions; W www.cisapalladio.org), which houses a research institute for Palladian architecture and often has excellent exhibitions on Classical architects. Outstanding buildings on Contrà Porti are the fourteenth-century Palazzo Colleoni Porto (no. 19) and Palladio’s neighbouring Palazzo Iseppo da Porto, designed a few years after the Thiene palace. The parallel Corso A. Fogazzaro completes the itinerary of major Palladian buildings with the Palazzo Valmarana (no. 16), perhaps the most eccentric of his projects – note the gigantic stucco ﬁgures at the sides of the facade, where you’d expect columns to be. At the end of Contrà Santa Corona, two blocks east of Contrà Porti, the Baroque Palazzo Leoni Montanari (Tues–Sun 10am–6pm; €4 or Card Musei) houses a collection of art from the Veneto, displayed in a series of frescoed rooms. Eighteenth-century painting is best represented, including works by Canaletto, Guardi and Tiepolo, and there’s a rather surprising collection of Russian icons. Contrà Porti takes you towards the Pusteria Bridge and the Parco Querini (daily 8am–sunset), the biggest expanse of green in the city, enlivened by a decorative hillock populated by ducks, rabbits and peacocks. The outskirts – Monte Bérico and the villas

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In 1426 Vicenza was struck by bubonic plague, during the course of which outbreak the Virgin is said to have appeared twice at the summit of Monte Bérico – the hill on the southern edge of the city – to announce the city’s deliverance. The chapel raised on the site of her appearance became a place of pilgrimage, and at the

Ten minutes’ walk from the basilica is the Villa Valmarana “ai Nani” – go back down the hill, head along Via M. D’Azeglio for 100m, then turn right into the cobbled Via S. Bastiano, which ends at the villa. This is an undistinguished house made extraordinary by the decorations of Giambattista and Giandomenico Tiepolo (early March to mid-Nov Tues–Sun 10am–noon & 3–6pm; rest of year Sat & Sun 10am–noon & 2–4.30pm; €8). Nani, by the way, means “dwarfs”, the signiﬁcance of which becomes clear when you see the garden wall. There are two parts to the house: the Palazzina, containing six rooms frescoed with typical virtuosity by Giambattista (you’re handed a brief guide to the paintings at the entrance); and the Foresteria, one room of which is frescoed by Giambattista and six by Giandomenico, whose predilections are a little less heroic than his father’s.

| Vicenza

Villa Valmarana

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end of the seventeenth century it was replaced by the present Basilica di Monte Bérico (Mon–Sat 6am–12.30pm & 2.30–7pm, Sun 7am–7.45pm, closes 6pm in winter; free). It takes around thirty minutes from the centre of town on foot, less than ten minutes by taxi. FTV bus #6 runs up the hill from the bus station roughly hourly, or on Sundays only, bus #18 goes more frequently from Viale Roma, the road leading into the centre from the station. Pilgrims regularly arrive here by the busload, and the glossy interior of the church is immaculately maintained to receive them. Those in search of artistic fulﬁlment should venture into the church for Montagna’s Pietà (in the chapel to the right of the apse) and The Supper of St Gregory the Great by Veronese (in the refectory). The latter, the prototype of The Feast in the House of Levi in Venice’s Accademia, was used for bayonet practice by Austrian troops in 1848 – the small reproduction nearby shows what a thorough job the vandals and subsequent restorers did. Carry on towards the summit of the hill and you come to the Museo del Risorgimento e della Resistenza (Tues–Sun 9am–1pm & 2.15–5pm; €3, or Card Musei), some ten minutes’ walk beyond the basilica. The museum houses an impressive display, paying particular attention to Vicenza’s resistance to the Austrians in the mid-nineteenth century and to the efforts of the anti-fascist Alpine ﬁghters a century later, but for many visitors the big attraction will be the extensive wooded parkland (Tues–Sun: Oct–March 9am–5.30pm; April–Sept 9am–7.30pm; free) laid out on the slopes below the Villa Guiccioli, the main building.

La Rotonda

From Villa Valmarana the narrow Strada Valmarana descends the slope to one of Europe’s most imitated buildings – Palladio’s Villa Capra, known as La Rotonda (villa mid-March to early Nov Wed & Sat 10am–noon & 3–6pm; €10; grounds Tues–Sun: mid-March to early Nov 10am–noon & 3–6pm; early Nov to mid-March 10am–noon & 2.30–5pm; €5). La Rotonda is unique among Palladio’s villas in that it was designed not as the main building of a farm but as a pavilion in which entertainments could be held and the landscape enjoyed. Only a walk round the lavishly decorated rooms will fully reveal the subtleties of the Rotonda’s design, which gives a strong impression of being as symmetrical as a square while in fact having a deﬁnite main axis. Unless you’re an architecture student and really want to scrutinize the walls from point-blank range, the garden can be given a miss, as it’s just a narrow belt of grass and gravel.

Eating and drinking Vicenza is not the liveliest of the Veneto’s towns, but it has a pleasant buzz in the evening, as the populace gathers in the Piazza dei Signori or just saunters up and

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down the Corso Palladio, with plenty of bars and cafés if you want to pause and watch the crowds. While there are few restaurants in the centre, standards are high – all of which means you’ll need to book or get there early for a table. You should also remember that many places close their kitchens by 11pm – and many shut up shop altogether in August. Popular specialities include baccalà alla Vicentina (dried cod in milk and oil) and sopressa, a kind of salami, generally eaten with a slice of grilled polenta.

V E NI C E AND THE V E NE TO

| Verona

Restaurants

Cafés and bars

Antica Casa della Malvasia Contrà delle Morette 5 T 0444.543.704. This bustling, roomy inn just off Piazza dei Signori is a popular budget choice, with a cheap lunchtime menu (primi €4, secondi €5.50) and a lively enoteca next door (see below). Tues–Sun noon–2.30pm & 7–11pm. Il Cursore Stradella Pozzetto 10 T0444.323.504. This atmospheric osteria serves up hearty platefuls of local specialities such as bigoli with a duck ragù (€7). It’s also popular for early-evening drinks and snacks. Wed–Mon 11am–3pm & 6pm–midnight; Sun lunch, snacks only. I Monelli Contrà Ponte San Paolo 13 T 0444.540.400. Across the bridge down from Piazza delle Erbe, this small, atmospheric osteria attracts locals for its good regional dishes and moderate prices. Daily noon–2.30pm & 6.30pm–1am. Julien Contrà Jacopo Cabianca 13 T 0444.326.168. Part restaurant, part cocktail bar, Julien attracts fashionable thirtysomethings for its early-evening buzz and its modern, well-priced menu (secondi around €12). Live music on Thurs. Mon–Sat 10.30am–3pm & 5pm–1/2am (kitchen opens 7.30pm). Righetti Piazza del Duomo 3. Cosier than your average self-service restaurant and a ﬁrm favourite with locals, Righetti is a model of honest pricing – a substantial meal here will set you back just €10–15. Mon–Fri noon–2.30pm & 7pm–midnight, Fri closes 1am.

Antica Casa della Malvasia Contrà delle Morette 5 T0444.543.704. This popular restaurant (see above) has recently expanded to include an enoteca. Serving snacks and drinks during the day, it’s also a laidback spot for an aperitivo, and there’s occasional live music too. Tues–Thurs & Sun 11am–midnight, Fri 5.30pm–2am, Sat 11am–2am. Il Borsa Piazza dei Signori 26. Good music (DJs on Wed) and an atmospheric setting under the portico of the basilica attract a relaxed crowd, and light meals such as salads and bruschette are served too. Tues–Sun 9am–2am. Il Grottino Piazza delle Erbe 2. Situated under the basilica, dimly lit Il Grottino is the bar of choice at aperitivo hour, with an extensive Spritz menu, a good range of wines and great snacks. Mon–Fri 5pm–2am, Sat & Sun 4pm–2am. Sorarù Piazzetta Andrea Palladio 17. The nineteenth-century interior of this venerable pasticceria vies with the cakes for your attention. The location is also unbeatable, right in front of the basilica. The only seating is outside, when it is warm enough. Mon, Tues, Thurs & Fri 8.30am–1pm & 3.30–8pm, Sat & Sun 8.30am–1pm & 4–8pm. Tutto Gelato Contrà Frasche del Gambero 26. This tucked-away gelateria serves the best ice cream in town – it’s renowned for its mascarpone and hazelnut ﬂavour. The fruit ice creams are 50 percent fruit and made without milk. Mid-April to Oct 10am–11.30pm, Nov to mid-April 10am–8.30pm.

Verona

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With its wealth of Roman sites and streets of pink-hued medieval buildings, the easy-going city of VERONA has more in the way of sights than any other place in the Veneto except Venice itself. It is Shakespeare who brings most people here: the city was the setting for Romeo and Juliet, and many people come to see the scene of their great, but ﬁctional, romance. It also hosts one of the major cultural events in the region, when the Roman Arena becomes a magical setting for an outdoor opera festival (see p.332). Unlike Venice, though, Verona is not dependent on the tourist industry, and its economic success is largely due to its position at the crossing of the major routes from Germany and Austria to central Italy and from

the west to Venice and Trieste. The spending power of its citizens contributes to a vivacious street life – one of Verona’s most appealing assets. Some history

Verona’s initial development as a Roman settlement was similarly due to its straddling the main lines of communication. A period of decline after the disintegration of the Roman Empire was followed by revival under the Ostrogoths, who in turn were succeeded by the Franks. By the twelfth century Verona had become a city-state, and in the following century approached the zenith of its independent existence with the Trento

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CAFÉS & BARS Al Carro Armato 9 Al Ponte 2 Caffè Coloniale 14 Cappa Café 4 Gelateria Artigianale Ponte Pietra 3 Osteria La Vecete 13 Osteria Monte Baldo 7 Rivamancina 10 Cimitero Monumentale

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rise of the Scaligers. The ruthless Scaligers were at the same time energetic patrons of the arts, and many of Verona’s ﬁnest buildings date from their rule. With the fall of their dynasty a time of upheaval ensued, Gian Galeazzo Visconti of Milan emerging in control of the city. Absorption into the Venetian Empire came in 1405, and Verona was governed from Venice until the arrival of Napoleon. Verona’s history thereafter shadowed that of Venice.

Arrival and information

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| Verona

If you’re ﬂying to Verona’s Valerio Catullo airport at Villafranca, 12km away, you can get into the city by a regular ATV bus (every 20min 5.55am–11.35pm; €4.50) from the airport to the train and bus station. Taxis costs about €25. Flights to Brescia, 52km away, are served by a daily shuttle bus to the station that takes an hour (€11 one way); by taxi you’ll pay about €90. Tickets for both bus services can be bought on board. From the main train station (Verona Porta Nuova) it’s a ﬁfteen-minute walk to the centre. Turn right outside the station (keeping to the right-hand side of the road), then left at the main junction with the broad Corso Porta Nuova, which leads straight to Piazza Brà, just inside the old city walls. If you don’t fancy the walk, you can get a bus; tickets cost €1 from the machines alongside bay A or from the tabacchi inside the train-station ticket hall, or €1.20 on board, and are valid for any number of journeys within an hour (alternatively, buses are free with VeronaCard; see box opposite). There are well-signed car parks just before Piazza Brà and at Piazza Isolo in Veronetta. The main tourist office is by the central Piazza Brà at Via degli Alpini 9, tucked into the old town walls beside the Palazzo Municipale (Mon–Sat 9am–7pm & Sun 10am–4pm, Dec & Jan Mon–Sat closes 6pm; T 045.806.8680, W www.tourism .verona.it). There are additional offices at the train station (Mon–Sat 9am–7pm, June–Sept also Sun 9am–3pm; T 045.800.0861) and at the airport (Mon & Tues 10am–4pm, Wed–Sat 10am–5pm). The tourist offices organize daily walking tours of the city from March to November (€10). You can rent bikes from Zanchi, Corso Cavour 13/A, near the Porta Borsari (T 045.800.5681; Mon 3.30–7.30pm, Tues–Sat 9am–12.30pm & 3.30–7.30pm; €5/hr, €1/hr thereafter). For internet access try Internet Train, Via Roma 19 (Mon–Fri 10am–9pm, Sat & Sun 2–9pm, Oct–April closes 8pm; €2.50/30min), or Internet Etc, Via 4 Spade 3/B (Mon 2.30–7.45pm, Tues–Fri 9.30am–7.45pm, Sat 10.30am–7.45pm, Sun 3.30–7.45pm; €3/30min).

Accommodation Accommodation is hard to ﬁnd during the opera season (late June to early Sept), so you’ll need to book ahead. You could try the free room-ﬁnding service, Cooperativa Albergatori Veronesi (CAV), at Via Patuzzi 5 (May to mid-Nov Mon–Sat 10am–7pm; mid-Nov to April Mon–Fri 10am–6pm; closed mid-Dec to mid-Jan; T 045.800.9844, W www.veronabooking.com); they also have a branch in the main tourist office, though hours are erratic. Hotels and apartments

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Antica Porta Leona Via Corticella Leoni 3 T 045.595.499, Wwww.anticaportaleona.com. Entirely revamped in 2010, this very elegant hotel offers tasteful standard rooms as well as ﬁve opera-themed suites, such as the dramatic Tosca, with ﬂoor-sweeping red drapes. There’s also a swimming pool, spa and restaurant. 6

Aurora Piazzetta XIV Novembre 2 T045.594.717, W www.hotelaurora.biz. Upmarket two-star hotel with a welcoming atmosphere and many rooms overlooking Piazza delle Erbe. The staff are friendly and knowledgeable, and speak good English. Excellent buffet breakfast. 4 Casa Coloniale Via Cairoli 6 T 337.472.737, Wwww.casa-coloniale.com. In an excellent centro

Hostels and campsite

| Verona

Campeggio Castel San Pietro Via Castel S. Pietro 2 T045.592.037, W www.campingcastel sanpietro.com. This pleasant site out by the old city walls is the only place to camp near the centre of Verona; take bus #41 or #95 from the station to Via Marsala and then it is a steep walk up the hill. Open May–Sept. Casa della Giovane Via Pigna 7 T045.596.880, W www.protezionedellagiovane.it. Spartan but friendly convent-run hostel for women, with an 11pm curfew, although there is ﬂexibility for guests with opera tickets. Reservations by phone, fax or email, max one month in advance. Dorms €22, doubles (with and without bath) 1 –2 Ostello della Gioventù Salita Fontana del Ferro 15 T045.590.360, Wwww.ostelloverona.it. The ofﬁcial HI hostel is in the lovely setting of sixteenth-century Villa Francescatti (bus #73, or #91 after 7.45pm and on Sun, from the station to Piazza Isolo). It has 241 beds, including some family rooms (bunk beds only); some rooms have frescoed ceilings, others a private terrace; many have splendid views over the rooftops. The midnight curfew is extended for guests with opera tickets. Dorms €18, family rooms €20 per person; dinner €8.

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storico location, this B&B has three attractive rooms, decorated in zingy modern stripes; room no. 3 on the top ﬂoor is the nicest, with its whitewashed beams. Breakfast is taken in the Caffè Coloniale (see p.332), run by the same management. 2 L’Ospite Via XX Settembre 3 T045.803.6994 or 329.426.2524, W www.lospite.com. Six apartments just across the Ponte Navi in the Veronetta district, run by the helpful Federica. Studio ﬂats sleep two, one-bed ﬂats can sleep up to four – ideal for small families. Simply furnished but cosy, with woodbeamed ceilings. 1 –3 Torcolo Vicolo Listone 3 T 045.800.7512, W www.hoteltorcolo.it. This nicely turned-out two-star hotel just off Piazza Brà has plenty of old-world charm; rooms have handpainted furniture and the owners are extremely welcoming. It’s a favourite with the opera crowds, so book ahead. 5 Victoria Via Adua 8 T 045.590.566, W www.hotelvictoria.it. Housed in a complex of old buildings, the rooms at this four-star are attractive, if slightly dated – all ﬂouncy bedcovers and ﬂock wallpaper; it’s worth paying a little extra for one of the superior doubles. Good deals out of season. 6

The City Coming from the train station, you pass Verona’s south gate, the Porta Nuova, and come onto the long Corso Porta Nuova, which ends at the battlemented arches that precede the Piazza Brà. Here stands the mightiest of Verona’s Roman monuments, the Arena, marking the edge of the old city that nestles in the bend of the River Adige and is crisscrossed by a neat grid of streets around the old Roman forum. Most of the sights are in this old centre, though it’s worth venturing across the river to the Veronetta district for a clutch of sights, including the archeological museum.

The biglietto unico and VeronaCard A biglietto unico, costing €5, allows one visit each to San Zeno, the Duomo (but not the Museo Canonicale), Sant’Anastasia and San Fermo. The ticket can be bought at any of these churches, which individually charge €2.50 for admission (W www .chieseverona.it). If you’re planning to be very busy, it might be worth getting the VeronaCard (Wwww.veronacard.it), which gives access to all the sights listed above, plus the Museo Canonicale, the Arena, the Torre dei Lamberti, the Museo Lapidario, Castelvecchio, the Casa di Giulietta, the Tomba di Giulietta, the Roman Theatre and the Museo Archeologico, as well as free travel on city buses. A one-day VeronaCard costs €10, the three-day €15. You can buy it at tabacchi, tourist ofﬁces and at the museums and monuments, too, though sometimes they run out of stock. Note that many museums are closed on Monday mornings, and most ticket ofﬁces shut 30–45 minutes before the ofﬁcial closing time.

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The Arena

Dating from the ﬁrst century AD, the Arena has survived in remarkable condition, despite the twelfth-century earthquake that destroyed all but four of the arches of the outer wall. The interior (Mon 1.30–7.15pm, Tues–Sun 8.30am–7.15pm, closes at 3.30pm during the opera season; €6, or VeronaCard – see box, p.323; €1 on ﬁrst Sun of month Oct–May) was scarcely damaged by the tremor, and where once crowds of around 20,000 packed the benches for gladiatorial contests, nowadays audiences come to watch gargantuan opera productions (see p.332). Originally measuring 152m by 123m overall, and thus the third largest of all Roman amphitheatres, the Arena remains an awesome sight – and offers a tremendous urban panorama from the topmost of the 44 pink-marble tiers. V E NI C E AND THE V E NE TO

The Casa di Giulietta and San Fermo

| Verona

North of the Arena, Via Mazzini is a narrow traffic-free street lined with clothes, shoe and jewellery shops. A left turn at the end leads to the Piazza delle Erbe, while a right takes you into Via Cappello, a street named after the family that Shakespeare turned into the Capulets – and on the left, at no. 23, is the Casa di Giulietta (Mon 1.30–7.30pm, Tues–Sun 8.30am–7.30pm; €6, or VeronaCard; €1 on ﬁrst Sun of month Oct–May). In fact, although the “Capulets” and the “Montagues” (Montecchi) did exist, Romeo and Juliet were entirely ﬁctional creations. The house itself, constructed at the start of the fourteenth century, is in a ﬁne state of preservation, but is largely empty, save for the occasional exhibition. More compelling are the walls at the entrance to the courtyard, every inch graffitied with amorous messages and plastered with love notes. Via Cappello leads into Via Leoni with its Roman gate, the Porta Leona, and a segment of excavated Roman street, exposed 3m below today’s street level. At the end of Via Leoni rises the red-brick San Fermo church (March–Oct Mon– Sat 10am–6pm, Sun 1–6pm; Nov–Feb Tues–Sat 10am–1pm & 1.30–5pm, Sun 1–5pm; €2.50 or biglietto unico/VeronaCard – see box, p.327), whose inconsistent exterior betrays the fact that it consists of two churches combined. Flooding forced the Benedictines to superimpose a second church on the one founded in the eighth century. The Romanesque lower church, entered from the left of the choir, has impressive low vaulting, sometimes obscured by exhibitions. Piazza delle Erbe and Piazza dei Signori

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Originally a major Roman crossroads and the site of the forum, Piazza delle Erbe is still the heart of the city. As the name suggests, the market used to sell mainly vegetables, but nowadays it has been largely taken over by ugly, semi-permanent booths selling clothes, souvenirs, antiques and fast food. The rich variety of buildings framing the square is far more attractive. Most striking are the Domus Mercatorum (on the left as you look from Via Cappello), which was founded in 1301 as a merchants’ warehouse and exchange, the fourteenth-century Torre del Gardello and, to the right of the tower, the Casa Mazzanti, whose sixteenthcentury murals are best seen after dark, under enhancing spotlights. The neighbouring Piazza dei Signori used to be the chief public square of Verona. Facing you as you come into the square is the medieval Palazzo degli Scaligeri, residence of the Scaligers; extending from it at a right angle is the ﬁfteenth-century Loggia del Consiglio, the former assembly hall of the city council and Verona’s outstanding early-Renaissance building. The rank of Roman notables along the roof includes Verona’s most illustrious native poet, Catullus. For a dizzying view of the city, take a sharp right as soon as you come into the square, and go up the twelfth-century Torre dei Lamberti (daily 8.30am–7.30pm, June–Sept Sat–Thurs 8.30am–8.30pm, Fri 8.30am–11pm; €6 or €1 with VeronaCard). There are 368 steps, but a lift whisks you two-thirds of the way to the top.

The Scaligeri tombs

Sant’Anastasia, San Pietro Martire and the Duomo

| Verona

Going on past the Arche Scaligeri, and turning left along Via San Pietro, you come to Sant’Anastasia (March–Oct Mon–Sat 9am–6pm, Sun 1–6pm; Nov–Feb Tues– Sat 10am–1pm & 1.30–5pm, Sun 1–5pm; €2.50 or biglietto unico/VeronaCard), Verona’s largest church. Started in 1290 and completed in 1481, it’s mainly Gothic in style, with undertones of the Romanesque. The fourteenth-century carvings of New Testament scenes around the doors are the most arresting feature of its bare exterior; the interior’s highlight is Pisanello’s delicately coloured fresco St George and the Princess (high above the chapel to the right of the altar), a work in which the normally martial saint appears as something of a dandy. On one side of the little piazza fronting Sant’Anastasia stands San Pietro Martire (staffed by volunteers, so opening hours and days are irregular), deconsecrated since its ransacking by Napoleon. The highlight of the small interior is the vast lunette fresco from the sixteenth century on the east wall. Easily the strangest picture in Verona, it’s an allegorical account of the Virgin’s Assumption, though the bizarre collection of animals appears to have little connection with a bemusedlooking Madonna. Verona’s red-and-white-striped Duomo (March–Oct Mon–Sat 10am–5.30pm, Sun 1.30–5.30pm; Nov–Feb Tues–Sat 10am–1pm & 1.30–4pm, Sun 1.30–5pm; €2.50 or biglietto unico/VeronaCard) lies just round the river’s bend, past the Roman Ponte Pietra. Consecrated in 1187, it’s Romanesque in its lower parts, developing into Gothic as it goes up; the two doorways are twelfth century – look for the story of Jonah and the whale on the south porch, and the statues of Roland and Oliver, two of Charlemagne’s paladins, on the west. In the ﬁrst chapel on the left, an Assumption by Titian occupies an architectural frame by Sansovino, who also designed the choir. Through the cloister, the Museo Canonicale (Thurs, Fri & Sat 9am–12.30pm; €2.50 or VeronaCard) holds an unexciting collection of archeological ﬁnds and religious paintings.

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Passing under the arch linking the Palazzo degli Scaligeri to the Palazzo del Capitano, you come to the little Romanesque church of Santa Maria Antica, in front of which are ranged the Arche Scaligeri, some of the most elaborate Gothic funerary monuments in Italy: the tombs are currently closed for restoration, but are partly visible from the street. Over the side entrance to the church, an equestrian statue of Cangrande I (“Big Dog”; died 1329) gawps down from his tomb’s pyramidal roof; the statue is a copy, the original being displayed in the Castelvecchio. The canopied tombs of the rest of the clan are enclosed within a wrought-iron palisade decorated with ladder motifs, the emblem of the Scaligers. Mastino I (“Mastiff ”; died 1277), founder of the dynasty, is buried in the simple tomb against the wall of the church; Mastino II (died 1351) is to the left of the entrance, opposite the most ﬂorid of the tombs, that of Cansignorio (“Top Dog”; died 1375).

To the Castelvecchio

After the Arena and the Teatro Romano, Verona’s most impressive Roman remnant is the Porta dei Borsari (on the junction of Via Diaz and Corso Porta Borsari), a structure that was as great an inﬂuence on the city’s Renaissance architects as the amphitheatre. This was Verona’s largest Roman gate; the inscription dates it at 265 AD, but it’s almost certainly older than that. Heading down Corso Cavour from Porta dei Borsari, past the small twelfthcentury San Lorenzo (Mon–Sat 9–11am & 2–5pm, Sun 2–7pm; free), you come to the Arco dei Gavi, a ﬁrst-century Roman triumphal arch that was rebuilt in 1930

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after Napoleon’s troops tore down the original. This is your best vantage point from which to admire the Ponte Scaligero, built by Cangrande II between 1355 and 1375. The retreating German army blew up the bridge in 1945, but the salvaged material was used for reconstruction. The fortress from which the bridge springs, the Castelvecchio (Mon 1.30–7.30pm, Tues–Sun 8.30am–7.30pm; €6 or VeronaCard; €1 ﬁrst Sun of the month Oct– May), was commissioned by Cangrande II at around the same time and became the stronghold for Verona’s subsequent rulers. Opened as the city museum in 1925, it was damaged by bombing during World War II. The equestrian ﬁgure Cangrande I, removed from his tomb, is strikingly displayed on an outdoor pedestal; his expression is disconcerting at close range, the simpleton’s grin being difficult to reconcile with the image of the ruthless warlord. Outstanding among paintings are two works by Jacopo Bellini, two Madonnas by Giovanni Bellini, another Madonna by Pisanello, Veronese’s Descent from the Cross, a Tintoretto Nativity, a Lotto portrait and works by Giambattista and Giandomenico Tiepolo. The real joy of the museum, however, is in wandering round the medieval pieces: beautiful sculpture and frescoes by the often nameless artists of the late Middle Ages. San Zeno Maggiore

| Verona

A little over 1km northwest of the Castelvecchio is the Basilica di San Zeno Maggiore (March–Oct Mon–Sat 8.30am–6pm, Sun 1–6pm; Nov–Feb Tues–Sat 10am–1pm & 1.30–5pm, Sun 1–5pm; €2.50 or biglietto unico/VeronaCard), one of the most signiﬁcant Romanesque churches in northern Italy. A church was founded here, above the tomb of the city’s patron saint, as early as the ﬁfth century, but the present building and its campanile were put up in the ﬁrst half of the twelfth century, with additions continuing up to the end of the fourteenth. Its large rose window, representing the Wheel of Fortune, dates from the early twelfth century, as does the magniﬁcent portal, whose lintels bear relief sculptures representing the months – look also for St Zeno trampling the devil. Extraordinary bronze panels on the doors depict scenes from the Bible and the Miracles of San Zeno, their style inﬂuenced by Byzantine art; most of those on the left are from around 1100, and most of the right-hand panels date from a century or so later. Inside the lofty interior the most compelling image is the high altar’s luminous Madonna and Saints by Mantegna. Across the Adige

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On the other side of Ponte Garibaldi, and right along the embankments or through the public gardens, is San Giorgio in Braida (daily 7–11am & 5–7pm), in terms of its works of art the richest of Verona’s churches. A Baptism by Tintoretto hangs over the door, while the main altar, designed by Sanmicheli, incorporates a marvellous piece by Paolo Veronese – The Martyrdom of St George. It’s a short walk along the embankments, past the twelfth-century church of Santo Stefano and the Ponte Pietra, to the ﬁrst-century-BC Teatro Romano (Mon 1.30–7.30pm, Tues–Sun 8.30am–7.30pm; €4.50 or VeronaCard; €1 ﬁrst Sun of the month Oct–May); much restored, the theatre is used for concerts and plays (see p.332). High above it, and reached by a lift, the Museo Archeologico (same hours & ticket) occupies the buildings of an old convent. Its well-arranged collection features a number of Greek, Roman and Etruscan ﬁnds, including a magniﬁcent Roman bronze head; from the old frescoed chapel at the top the views are magniﬁcent. If you’ve the energy to walk uphill again, there are two sites nearby. The Museo Africano (Tues–Sat 9am–12.30pm & 2.30–5.30pm, Sun 2–6pm, closed Sun in July & Aug; €3, €2 with VeronaCard, free ﬁrst Sun of the month Oct–May), off Via San Giovanni in Valle at Vicolo Pozzo 1, has a brightly lit and well-displayed collection of musical instruments and masks brought back over the years by

Eating and drinking

Restaurants Alla Colonna Largo Pescheria Vecchia 4 T045.596.718. This place is usually packed with savvy locals – the food is simple, superb, the portions large and the prices excellent (€14 menu). Mon–Sat noon–3.30pm (kitchen closes 2.30pm) & 7pm–2am (kitchen closes 11.30pm). Bella Napoli Via Marconi 14. Serves the best pizza in Verona – and the largest, with half a metre of pizza for €14 – in a distinctly Neapolitan atmosphere. A second branch over the road at no. 11 is more modern, serving restaurant food. Daily noon–2.30pm & 6.30pm–1am, Fri & Sat till 2.30am. Bottega del Vino Vicolo Scudo di Francia 3/A T 045.800.4535. One of the top restaurants in Verona, with ﬂamboyant antique decor and one of the largest selection of wines in Italy. It’s not cheap – mains go up to €37 – and slightly touristy, but plenty of locals drop in for a glass of wine

earlier in the evening. Wed–Mon 11.30am–3pm & 6pm–midnight. Osteria al Duomo Via Duomo 7/A T045.800.7333. Little changed by modern fashion, this no-frills osteria has a small but interesting menu, with local specialities such as bigoli with a donkey sauce (sugo d’asino; €8). Mon–Sat 11am–3pm & 7pm–midnight (kitchen closes 10.30pm). Osteria del Bugiardo Corso Porta Borsari 17/A T045.591.869. Small establishment with an excellent range of antipasti and crostini, as well as some primi and secondi. Its high tables are packed at lunchtime with locals grabbing a quick lunch. Sun–Thurs 11am–11pm, Fri & Sat 11am–midnight. Osteria La Fontanina Piazzetta Fontanina, Veronetta T045.913.305, Wwww.ristorantela fontanina.com. One of the best old-world osterie on the left bank, this is an atmospheric place for a meal, with tables hidden among crates of wine and

| Verona

The Veronesi have a reputation for liking their food – one thirteenth-century story tells of the defenders of a castle opening their gates when they heard that the besiegers were cooking baccalà, dried cod – although that was more likely a sign of their desperation. You can certainly eat well in the city: if the local speciality of horsemeat is not to your taste you can try the local salamis, pumpkin ravioli or bigoli, a handmade, thicker version of spaghetti. The best restaurants in Verona tend to be packed after 9pm, so book beforehand or go out early. In the week before and after the Arena season ( July and Aug) you may ﬁnd places close early or shut completely as the city takes a rest. For a drink, head to one of the city’s numerous osterie, traditionally old-fashioned bars with wine served by the glass for as little as €1, accompanied by delicious bocconcini (savoury tartlets and panini); a few simple dishes are usually offered too. In recent years, the osteria label has been appropriated by smarter restaurants, and now just as often applies to more modern – and pricier – establishments. Verona’s club scene is much livelier than in Venice, but most venues are outside the centre. The Spettacoli section of L’Arena (there’s a copy in every bar), is a good source of information on what’s happening (in Italian only).

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missionaries. Further up Via San Giovanni in Valle, just below the youth hostel, stands the small Romanesque church of San Giovanni in Valle (Mon & Wed–Sun 9–11.30am; free), which was founded in the eighth century and rebuilt in the twelfth after earthquake damage. Bombing in 1944 destroyed the decoration of the interior, but the crypt escaped pretty well unscathed. Back down at river level is one of the treats of the city: the church of Santa Maria in Organo (Mon–Thurs, Sat & Sun 8am–noon & 3.30–6pm, Fri 8am–noon; free), which possesses what Vasari praised as the ﬁnest choir stall in Italy. Dating from the 1490s, this marquetry was the work of a Benedictine monk, one Fra Giovanni, and is astonishing in its precision and use of perspective. There’s more of his work in the sacristy, while in the crypt you can see reused upside-down Roman columns. Further down Via Santa Maria in Organo you’ll come to the ﬁnest formal gardens in Verona, the Giardino Giusti at Via Giardino Giusti 2 (daily: April–Sept 9am–8pm; Oct–March 9am–sunset; €6). Full of fountains and shady corners, the Giusti provides the city’s most pleasant respite from the streets.

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| Verona

decorated screens. Despite its Michelin star, it has recently lowered its prices to more accessible levels – three-course tasting menus start at €37. Mon 7.30–10pm, Tues–Sat 12.30–2pm & 7.30–10pm. Osteria Sottoriva Via Sottoriva 9. Verona’s traditional osterie don’t come much more authentic than this: it’s rumbustious, full of locals, and serves delicious food such as Gorgonzola with polenta, or lasagne for around €8. In summer you can sit outside under the arches. Thurs–Tues: May–Sept 11am–11pm, Oct–April 11am–3.30pm & 6.30–10.30pm. Torcolo Via C. Cattaneo 11 (T045.803.3730. Run by the same family as Tre Marchetti “Da Barca” (see below), this new restaurant is as elegant as its well-established sister, but less expensive. A great place to try local specialities such as bigoli pasta with sausage and leeks, or ossobuco. Closed Mon. Trattoria alla Pigna Via Pigna 4 T 045.800.4080, W www.osteriapigna.it. This elegant restaurant has a well-deserved reputation among locals and tourists alike, and serves traditional dishes such as stewed horsemeat on polenta (€12) and risotto all’Amarone, braised in the local wine (€12). Tues–Sun 12.30–2.30pm & 7pm–2am. Tre Marchetti “Da Barca” Vicolo Tre Marchetti 19/B T 045.803.0463. A couple of steps north of the arena, this family-run place is perfect for a pre- or post-opera meal of Veronese specialities, such as bigoli pasta or veal braised in Amarone. It’s very reﬁned, and unsurprisingly pricey, given its location. Booking essential. Mon–Sat 9.30am–3pm & 6pm–midnight; July & Aug closed Mon.

Bars and cafés Al Carro Armato Vicolo Gatto 2/A. One of the most atmospheric osterie in the city, with a counter full of delicious antipasti for you to choose from, such as polpette (meatballs) and sﬁlacci (ﬁne slices of

horse). Tues–Sun 11am–3pm & 6pm–1am (kitchen closes 10.30pm), till midnight Sun. Al Ponte Via Ponte Pietra 26. Sip a glass of wine on the terrace here and enjoy a marvellous view of Ponte Pietra and the Teatro Romano. There’s also a small menu of primi (€8–10) and simple secondi (€10–12). Daily 9am–2am. Caffè Coloniale Piazzetta Viviani 14/C. The best hot chocolate in the city, and good snacks in a mock-colonial setting, with an attractive outdoor terrace. Daily 7.45am–midnight. Cappa Café Piazzetta Brà Molinari 1/A. Large bar with Eastern trappings, ﬂoor cushions, outdoor tables and live jazz on Sun Oct–April. July–Sept 9am–2am, Oct–June 7.30am–2am. Gelateria Artigianale Ponte Pietra Via Ponte Pietra 23. The best ice cream in the city is served at this friendly gelateria by the Roman bridge. The orange and cinnamon and Sachertorte ﬂavours are specialities. Daily 2–11pm, until 7.30pm in spring; closed Nov–Feb. Osteria Le Vecete Via Pellicciai 32 T045.594.748. Atmospheric osteria with a delicious selection of bocconcini, and a good menu too (secondi €15–20). Its wine list is excellent, ranging from cheap to very expensive. Booking advised for dinner at weekends. Mon–Fri 10.30am–12.30am, Sat 10.30am–1.30am, Sun 11.30am–12.30am. Osteria Monte Baldo Via Rosa 12 T045.803.0579. Hugely popular in the early evening for drinks, and renowned for its delicious bocconcini, this bottle-lined osteria also has a small menu of simple pasta dishes and main courses for €5–9. Tues–Sun 10am–3pm & 5–9pm. Rivamancina Vicolo Quadrelli 1, Veronetta. This recently revamped bar on the left bank of the Adige has the cosy feel of an osteria but serves good cocktails and above-average snacks. Mon–Thurs 11am–midnight, Fri & Sat 11am–2am; closed Aug.

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Music and theatre are the dominant art forms in the cultural life of Verona. The city’s opera festival, held in the Arena during July and August, has been a major draw since 1913, always featuring a no-expense-spared production of Aida. To get the best (or last-minute) seats, call in at the office on Via Dietro Anﬁteatro 6/B; if you can’t make it in person you can book by phone or online (T 045.800.5151, W www.arena.it). Ticket prices range from €20 to €198, with substantial reductions for cumulative tickets (such as three operas in three days for €41). Big rock events crop up on the Arena’s calendar too. A summer season of ballet and of Shakespeare and other dramatists in Italian takes place at the Teatro Romano (W www.estateteatraleveronese.it). Some events are free; for the rest, cheapskates who don’t mind inferior acoustics can park themselves on the steps going up the hill alongside the theatre. The box office at the Teatro Romano also sells tickets for the Arena and vice versa.

Treviso

| Treviso

One of the overlooked gems of the Veneto, TREVISO makes an ideal jumpingoff point for the northern Veneto. Treviso was an important town long before its assimilation by Venice in 1389, and plenty of evidence of its early status survives in the form of Gothic churches, public buildings and, most dramatically of all, the paintings of Tomaso da Modena (1325–79), the major artist in northern Italy in the years immediately after Giotto’s death. The general townscape within Treviso’s sixteenth-century walls is appealing too – long porticoes and frescoed house facades give many of the streets an appearance quite distinct from that of other towns in the region – and wandering the maze of backstreets and meandering canals is a pleasant way to while away an hour or two.

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One of the most enjoyable days in the calendar is Verona’s Carnevale. On the Friday before Shrove Tuesday, a huge procession winds through the centre from Piazza Brà. This is a local event with none of the masks and posing of Venice – just lots of people dressing up, loud music and confetti – though mind the kids who get carried away spraying white foam everywhere. The procession is led by a large character called the Papa del Gnocco – most of the city’s restaurants serve gnocchi on that Friday. As the Veneto produces more DOC wine than any other region in Italy, it’s not surprising that Italy’s main wine fair, Vinitaly (W www.vinitaly.com), is held in Verona. It takes place in April and offers abundant sampling opportunities; day tickets cost €40, less if you book online.

Arrival, information and accommodation Arriving at the train station, head straight across the bridge, bending slightly left at the ﬁrst roundabout to reach the centre. See p.263 for arriving at Treviso’s airport. The tourist office is temporarily at Via Sant’Andrea 3 (Mon 9am–1pm, Tues–Fri 9am–1pm & 2–6pm, Sat 9am–1pm & 3–6pm, Sun 9.30am–12.30pm & 3–6pm; T 0422.547.632, W tourism.provincia.treviso.it) – from Piazza dei Signori, cross Piazza dell’Indipendenza and follow Via Indipendenza – though it will move back to its more central location at Piazza Monte di Pietà 8 in due course. There’s internet access at Al Madina, Via Orioli 14, off Via Roma, the road that leads from the station to the centre (Wed–Mon 8am–8pm; €2/hr). The downside of the town being undiscovered is that it isn’t really geared up for tourists, though a growing number of attractive B&Bs mean that soulless business hotels are no longer the only option; ask at the tourist office for a full list. Hotels and B&BS Il Focolare Piazza Ancilotto 4 T 0422.56.601, W www.albergoilfocolare.net. Recently refurbished in chintzy, country-house style, three-star Il Focolare enjoys an excellent central location, just steps from Piazza dei Signori. 3 Locanda San Tomaso Viale Burchiellati 5 T 0422.541.550 or 346.951.3652, Wwww.locandasantomaso.it. The six rooms of this charming, family-run B&B have been decorated with painstaking attention to detail. Some have

stencilled walls, others hold family antiques or paintings by the owner, an artist. Breakfast is taken in the family’s trattoria downstairs. 2 Maison Matilda Via Jacopo Riccati 44 T0422.582.212, W www.maisonmatilda.com. An ultra-luxurious bolt-hole just round the corner from the Duomo, with ﬁve elegantly furnished rooms and one suite. Roll-top baths, antique furnishings and ﬂoor-sweeping drapes give it an opulent feel, and the sumptuous breakfast can be served at any hour of the day. 5

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The City Treviso was pounded during both world wars and on Good Friday 1944 was halfdestroyed in a single bombing raid. However, historic features are well preserved in the main street of Treviso’s centre, Calmaggiore, where modern commerce has reached the sort of compromise with the past that the Italians seem to arrange better than anyone else. Calmaggiore and around

V E NI C E AND THE V E NE TO

| Treviso

Stretching from Piazza dei Signori towards the Duomo, Calmaggiore is lined with smart boutiques, and thronged with window-shoppers throughout the day. Piazza dei Signori is the town’s focal point, and the scene of a lively evening passeggiata. On one side of the piazza, the early thirteenth-century Palazzo dei Trecento, badly damaged in the 1944 bombing, has recently been restored, though as the seat of the city council it’s not open to the public. The adjoining Palazzo del Podestà is a nineteenth-century concoction. Of more interest are the two churches at the back of the block: San Vito and Santa Lucia (daily 8am–noon; free). The tiny, dark chapel of Santa Lucia has extensive frescoes by Tomaso da Modena and his followers; San Vito has even older paintings in the alcove through which you enter from Santa Lucia, though they’re not in a good state. The Duomo of Treviso, San Pietro (Mon–Sat 8am–noon & 3.30–6pm, Sun 8am–1pm & 3.30–8pm; free), was founded in the twelfth century and much altered in succeeding centuries; it was eventually rebuilt to rectify the damage of 1944. The interior is chieﬂy notable for its crypt – a thicket of twelfth-century columns with scraps of medieval mosaics – and the Cappella Malchiostro, with fragmentary frescoes by Pordenone and an Annunciation by Titian. The canals, Museo di Santa Caterina and around

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Crisscrossed with canals, Treviso markets itself as a “piccola Venezia”, and although it can hardly compare with the attractions of its better-endowed neighbour, its tranquil waterways, edged with grassy slopes, weeping willows and waterwheels, have their own low-key charm. A short stroll east of Piazza dei Signori is Buranelli, the prettiest of the canals, lined with pastel palazzi and crossed with wrought-iron bridges. The nearby Pescheria (ﬁsh market), sitting on its own islet in the middle of the Canale Cagnan, is one of Treviso’s liveliest corners, both day and night; close to the market at Via Palestro 33–35, the Casa dei Carraresi (T 0422.513.150) hosts big-name international art exhibitions. East of the Pescheria, the district around the deconsecrated church of Santa Caterina, behind Piazza Matteotti, is altogether more tranquil. Now the city museum (Tues–Sun 9am–12.30pm, 2.30–6pm; €3), the former church harbours another brilliant fresco cycle by Tomaso da Modena, The Story of the Life of Saint Ursula. Painted for the now-extinct church of Santa Margherita sul Sile, the frescoes were detached from the walls in the late nineteenth century shortly before the church was destroyed and were badly damaged, but have recently been restored. The museum also houses two ﬂoors of local archeological ﬁnds, as well as paintings by the likes of Titian and Lorenzo Lotto. The district around Santa Caterina is pleasantly low-key, coming to life on Tuesday and Saturday mornings with the hubbub of the stalls around the market, stretching from Piazza Matteotti to Borgo Mazzini and along the city walls to Viale Burchiellati. To the south stands the Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore (daily 8am–noon & 3.30–6pm; free), which houses the most venerated image in Treviso, a fresco of the Madonna originally painted by Tomaso but subsequently retouched.

San Nicolò

Eating, drinking and nightlife Treviso has some excellent restaurants, many of which feature radicchio, the bitter red lettuce that is remarkably popular, and tiramisù, which as every local knows comes from here. The bars and cafés around the Pescheria, particularly along Via Palestro, are always buzzing, and those clustered beneath and around the Palazzo dei Trecento are good for people-watching. With a growing university population, Treviso’s nightlife is on the up, although the most popular places are still chic wine-bars rather than studenty hangouts. Antica Osteria ai Carraresi Via Palestro 42/A T 0422.412.144. With just a handful of tables, this friendly osteria near the ﬁsh market has a small menu of hearty, well-executed dishes such as gnocchi with duck ragù (€8) and baccalà (€13). Thurs–Tues 10am–3pm & 5.30pm–midnight. Antica Osteria al Bottegon Viale Burchiellati 7. Tucked into the old city walls by the Porta San Tomaso, this busy enoteca has good snacks and is popular with a young, hip crowd; the cocktail lounge opposite, Mamamia, is also open till late. Mon–Sat 9am–2pm & 5.30pm–2am. Dai Naneti Vicolo Brolo 2. Round the corner from the Palazzo Trecento, Beppe and Fabio preside over a small bar that is packed with locals sampling the wine, food and congenial atmosphere. Mon–Fri 9am–2pm & 5–8pm, Sat 9am–1.30pm & 5–8.30pm. Muscoli’s Via Pescheria 23 T 0422.583.390. A perennially popular osteria, where the customers spill out onto the ﬁsh-market island opposite when the weather permits. The menu

is traditional and mainly ﬁshy, with secondi at around €10. May–Sept Mon–Sat 7am–3pm & 5pm–2am, Oct–April Thurs–Tues same hours. Osteria al Corder Via Palestro 37. With just four tables, this little osteria is crammed in the evenings, serving aperitivi and snacks to a buzzing thirtysomething crowd, who mingle on the piazza outside when the bar reaches saturation point. There’s a small menu of grilled ﬁsh and meat dishes too. Mon–Sat 11am–3pm & 5.30pm–1am. Osteria da Arman Via Manzoni 27 T 0422.547.747. Discerning Trevisans ﬂock to this old family-run establishment north of Santa Caterina, near the city walls, for its home cooking and convivial atmosphere. It sells its own Prosecco to accompany generous helpings of pasta (around €7). Mon–Sat 9am–3pm & 4pm–1am. Toni del Spin Via Inferiore 7 T0422.543.829. Near Piazza dei Signori, this local favourite serves superb Trevisan cuisine for around €30 per head. Mon 7.30–10.30pm, Tues–Sat 12.30–2.30pm & 7.30–10.30pm.

| Castelfranco and Cittadella

Restaurants and bars

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Just over the River Sile from the railway station is the severe Dominican church of San Nicolò (Mon–Fri 8am–noon & 3.30–6pm; free), which has frescoes dating from the thirteenth to the sixteenth centuries. Some of the columns are decorated with paintings by Tomaso da Modena and his school, of which the best are Sts Jerome and Agnes (by Tomaso) on the ﬁrst column on your right as you enter. For a comprehensive demonstration of Tomaso da Modena’s talents you have to visit the neighbouring Seminario, where the chapterhouse, to the left of the entrance, is decorated with forty Portraits of Members of the Dominican Order, painted in 1352 (daily: summer 8am–6pm; winter 8am–5.30pm; free); you may need to ring the bell to get in.

Castelfranco and Cittadella CASTELFRANCO VENETO once stood on the western edge of Treviso’s territory, and battlemented brick walls that the Trevisans threw round the town in 1199 to protect it against the Paduans still encircle most of the old centre (or castello). Of all the walled towns of the Veneto, few bear comparison with Castelfranco, and the place would merit a visit on the strength of this alone. But

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| Bassano del Grappa and around

Castelfranco was also the birthplace of Giorgione and possesses a painting that single-handedly vindicates Vasari’s judgement that Giorgione’s place in Venetian art is equivalent to Leonardo da Vinci’s in that of Florence. Known simply as the Castelfranco Madonna, Giorgione’s magniﬁcent Madonna and Child with Saints hangs in the eighteenth-century Duomo (daily 9am–noon & 3.30–6pm), in a chapel to the right of the chancel. The left-hand saint is St Francis, but there are several possibilities for the right-hand ﬁgure, of which Nicasius and Liberale (patron saint of Castelfranco) are the leading contenders. Giorgione is the most elusive of all the great ﬁgures of the Renaissance: only six surviving paintings can indisputably be attributed to him, and so little is known about his life that legends have proliferated to ﬁll the gaps. Next to the Duomo, the Casa Giorgione is hardly worth the entry fee (Tues–Sun 10am–12.30pm & 3–6.30pm; €2.50): its rooms are totally empty, except for a chiaroscuro frieze in one of the ﬁrst-ﬂoor rooms, hopefully attributed to Giorgione. The nearby restaurant A Alle Mura, at Via Preti 69, has a bizarre interior decorated with Polynesian artefacts, but the food is faultless: the €15 lunch menu is excellent value (T 0423.498.098; Fri–Wed 12.30–3pm & 7–10.30pm; closed 2–3 weeks in Aug). When Treviso turned Castelfranco into a garrison, the Paduans promptly retaliated by reinforcing the defences of CITTADELLA, 15km to the west, on the train line to Vicenza. The fortiﬁed walls of Cittadella were built in the ﬁrst quarter of the thirteenth century, and are even more impressive than those of its neighbour. You enter the town through one of four rugged brick gateways; if you’re coming from the train station it’ll be the Porta Padova, the most daunting of the four, ﬂanked by the Torre di Malta. The tower was built as a prison and torture chamber by the monstrous Ezzelino da Romano, known to those he terrorized in this region in the mid-thirteenth century as “The Son of Satan”. His atrocities earned him a place in the seventh circle of Dante’s Inferno, where he’s condemned to boil eternally in a river of blood.

Bassano del Grappa and around Situated on the River Brenta, BASSANO has expanded rapidly over the last few decades, though its historic centre remains largely unspoiled. For centuries a major producer of ceramics and wrought iron, Bassano is also renowned for its grappa distilleries and its culinary delicacies such as porcini mushrooms, white asparagus and honey. Although it has few outstanding monuments or ﬁne architecture, Bassano’s airy situation on the edge of the mountains and the quiet charm of the old streets make it well worth the trip.

Arrival, information and accommodation A short walk up Via Chilesotti from the bus and train stations brings you to Bassano’s sturdy city walls. Just through the walls you’ll ﬁnd the tourist office at Largo Corona d’Italia 35 (daily 9am–1pm & 2–6pm; T 0424.524.351, W www .vicenzae.org). Accommodation

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Al Castello Via Bonamigo 19 T0424.228.665, W www.hotelalcastello.it. The only hotel in the old centre, this three-star is right by the castle. The rooms are on the small side; ask for no. 10, which is larger, with its own balcony. Breakfast is not included but there’s a bar downstairs. 2

Ostello Don Cremona Via Chini 6 T0424.219.137, Wwww.ostellobassanodelgrappa.it. For a low-budget stay, just south of the centre is the youth hostel with 90 beds, half of which are bunks. Check-in Mon–Fri 8.30am–12.30pm & 4–10pm, Sat 8.30am–noon & 7–10pm, Sun 7–10pm. Dorms €18, doubles €23.50 per person.

Villa Brocchi Colonna Contrà San Giorgio 98 T 0424.501.580, Wwww.villabrocchi colonna.it. Charming converted villa 2km from the centre on the western edge of town. The

welcoming mother-and-daughter team offer very comfortable rooms and the breakfast – with pancakes and a fantastic array of jams made from produce in the orchard – is delectable. 3

The Town

V E NI C E AND THE V E NE TO

| Bassano del Grappa and around

All the main sights lie between the Brenta and the train station. Walking away from the station, you cross the orbital Viale delle Fosse to get to Piazza Garibaldi, one of the two main squares. Here, the cloister of the fourteenth-century church of San Francesco now houses the Museo Civico (Tues–Sat 9am–6.30pm, Sun 10am–1pm & 3–6pm; €4, or €5 including Palazzo Sturm – see below), devoted to Roman ﬁnds and paintings by the da Ponte family (better known as the Bassano family). Jacopo Bassano is the most famous, though his works can be sentimental and derivative; his son Francesco is better represented by some brooding portraits. Don’t miss the tucked-away medieval rooms concealing a couple of typically luminous Bartolomeo Vivarini works. Other rooms are devoted to a number of plaster works by Canova and to the great baritone Tito Gobbi, who was born in Bassano. Overlooking the other side of the piazza is the Torre Civica, once a lookout tower for the twelfth-century inner walls, now a clock tower with spurious nineteenth-century battlements and windows (Sat & Sun 10am–1pm & 3–6pm; €2). Beyond the adjacent Piazza Libertà, Piazzetta Montevecchio leads to a little jumble of streets and stairways running down to the river and the Ponte degli Alpini, designed by Palladio in 1568. From here, follow Via Ferracina downstream for a couple of minutes and you’ll come to the eighteenth-century Palazzo Sturm (Tues–Sat 9am–1pm & 3–6pm, Sun 10.30–1pm & 3–6pm; €4, or €5 including Museo Civico), a showcase for the town’s famed majolica ware, with a display on the Remondini printing works, which was founded in Bassano in the seventeenth century. Various streets and squares in Bassano commemorate the dead of the two world wars. In 1944 resistance ﬁghters were rounded up and hanged from trees along the street now called Viale dei Martiri. The major war memorial, however, is out of town on Monte Grappa, an hour’s drive away. From the top (1775m) the views are astounding; on a clear day you can see Venice.

Eating and drinking Bassano del Grappa is naturally best known for its grappa, the Italian ﬁrewater, and – this being Italy – where there is good alcohol you’ll ﬁnd good food not far behind. Bassano’s central streets and squares come alive at the end of the siesta and the bars and restaurants around the main square have a real buzz by the early evening. The two big names in grappa can both be found by the old bridge: Poli (daily 9am–7.30pm) has a shop where you can sample many kinds of grappa, as well as a four-room museum with displays on the distilling process; the former Nardini distillery has a period-piece bar and grappa shop with excellent views over the river (daily 8am–9pm; closes 8.30pm Nov–April). Restaurants and bars Al Caneseo Via Vendramini 20 T0424.228.524. Both the food and the atmosphere are very good in this small restaurant, which serves dishes from Abruzzo and the Veneto. Tues–Sun noon–2am & 7.30–10pm; closed Aug.

Al Caneva Via Matteotti 34. This cosy bar does delicious snacks as well as more substantial dishes, and has tables out in the street when the weather permits. Wed–Mon 9.30am–3pm & 7pm–midnight.

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Antica Osteria Via Matteotti 7. Old-fashioned bar that has a strong local following, and serves good snacks. Tues–Sun 7am–1.30pm & 3–9pm. Del Borgo Via Margnan 7 T 0424.522.155. A short walk downhill, north of the old centre, this

is a classy establishment with its own garden. A full meal with wine will set you back around €25–30. Mon, Tues, Thurs, Fri & Sun 10.30am–2pm & 6pm–midnight, Sat 6pm–midnight; closed Sun and open Wed in high summer.

Ásolo

V E NI C E AND THE V E NE TO

| Bassano del Grappa and around

East of Bassano, the medieval hilltop town of ÁSOLO presides over a tightly grouped range of 27 gentle peaks in the foothills of the Dolomites. Known as la città dai cento orizzonti (“the city with a hundred horizons”), the town was popular with writers and artists who found the atmosphere convivial: Robert Browning’s last published work – Asolando – was written here. With regular buses from Bassano, Ásolo provides a pleasant day-trip; if you want to get here from Venice, it’s quickest to take a train to Treviso, from where there are buses at least hourly (some change at Montebelluna). The bus drops you at the foot of the hill, from where a connecting minibus (€1 return) shuttles you up into the town. The central Piazza Garibaldi is the site of a popular antiques market on the second Sunday of the month (except July & Aug). Also on the piazza is the Museo Civico (Sat & Sun 10am–noon, 3–7pm; €4), whose most diverting exhibits are the memorabilia of Ásolo’s celebrated residents, including the portraits, photos and personal effects of Eleonora Duse (1858–1924). An actress in the Sarah Bernhardt mould, Duse was almost as well known for her tempestuous love life as for her roles in Shakespeare, Hugo and Ibsen, and she came to Ásolo to seek refuge from gossip. Duse gave her name to the theatre that is now in the Castello, which from 1489 to 1509 was home to Ásolo’s most celebrated resident, Caterina Cornaro. Born into one of Venice’s most powerful families, Caterina was married to Jacques II, King of Cyprus. Within a year Jacques was dead, and Caterina was pressurized into ceding Cyprus to the Republic. She was given the region of Ásolo as a sign of Venice’s indebtedness. Eventually Ásolo, too, was taken away from her by the Emperor Maximilian, and she sought asylum in Venice, where she died soon after, in 1510. Ásolo’s medieval fortress, the Rocca (Sun 10am–sunset; July & Aug closed noon–3pm; €1.50), is a steep climb – around 15 minutes on foot from Piazza Garibaldi – but the lovely views from the top make it worth the effort. Via Canova leads west away from the town centre past Eleonora Duse’s house (no. 306), near the Porta Santa Caterina. The church of Santa Caterina (May–Sept daily 9am–6.30pm; Oct–April Sat & Sun 9am–4.30pm), next to the Carabinieri, is deconsecrated but open to allow visitors to see its ﬁfteenth-century frescoes. A little further along Via di Santa Caterina, the cemetery of the church of Sant’Anna holds the graves of Eleonora Duse and the third of Ásolo’s famous female residents, the English writer and adventuress Freya Stark. Practicalities

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The tourist office is at Piazza D’Annunzio 2 (Tues & Wed 3–6pm, Thurs–Sun 9.30am–12.30pm; T 0423.529.046, W www.asolo.it). The best restaurant in town is the family-run Hosteria Cà Derton, Piazza D’Annunzio 11 (T 0423.529.648, W www.caderton.com; Tues–Sat 12.30–2pm & 7.30–10.30pm, Sun 12.30–2pm, but June–Sept closed all day Sun); booking is essential. You can sample the same ﬁne cooking more cheaply in the more informal Enoteca di Nino e Antonietta next door.

The Villa Barbaro at Masèr

Conegliano

| Conegliano

The hills surrounding CONEGLIANO are patched with vineyards, and the production of wine (Prosecco in particular) is central to the economy of the town. Italy’s ﬁrst wine-growers’ college was set up in Conegliano in 1876, and a couple of well-established wine routes meet here: the Strada dei Vini del Piave, which runs for 68km southeast to Oderzo and concentrates on the region’s red wines (W www.stradavinidelpiave.com), and the more rewarding Strada del Prosecco, the ﬁrst to be established in Italy, a 42-kilometre journey west to Valdobbiádene (W www.coneglianovaldobbiadene.it). Access to Conegliano itself is straightforward, as nearly all the regular Venice–Udine trains stop here. On the central street of the old town, Via XX Settembre, the most decorative feature is the unusual facade of the Duomo (7am–noon & 3.15–7.30pm): a fourteenth-century portico, frescoed in the sixteenth century. The interior has been much rebuilt, but has a ﬁne Madonna and Child with Saints and Angels, painted in 1493 by Giambattista Cima, the most famous native of Conegliano. The attached Sala dei Battuti (daily 10am–7pm; free) holds a sixteenth-century fresco cycle of scenes from the Creation to the Last Judgment. The birthplace of Cima, the Casa di Giambattista Cima at the rear of the Duomo (daily 10am–noon & 3–6pm; €1), consists mainly of reproductions of his paintings and archeological ﬁnds made during the restoration of the house. The Museo Civico (April–Sept Tues–Sun 10am–12.30pm & 4–7.30pm; Oct & Dec–March Tues–Sun 10am–12.30pm & 2.30–6pm; Nov Sat & Sun only; €2.50) is housed in the tower of the castello on top of the hill. It has some damaged frescoes by Pordenone and a small bronze horse by Giambologna, but the main reason to visit is the climb to the tower’s roof from where there’s a ﬁne panorama of the vine-clad landscape.

V E NI C E AND THE V E NE TO

The Villa Barbaro, or the Villa di Masèr (March, July & Aug Tues, Thurs & Sat 10.30am–6pm, Sun 11am–6pm; April–June, Sept & Oct Tues–Sat 10am–6pm, Sun 11am–6pm; Nov–Feb Sat & Sun 11am–5pm; hours change frequently so call to check; €6; W www.villadimaser.it), a few kilometres northeast of Ásolo, is a masterpiece created in unison by Palladio and Paolo Veronese, whose careers crossed here and nowhere else. The villa was commissioned in the 1550s by Daniele and Marcantonio Barbaro, Venetian ambassadors and connoisseurs of the arts. Apart from its beautifully symmetrical architecture, the standout feature is the magniﬁcent series of frescoes by Veronese, which make fantastic use of trompe l’oeil effects: servants peer round painted doors, a dog sniffs along the base of a ﬂat balustrade, a huntsman (probably Veronese himself ) steps into the house through an entrance that’s a solid wall. In the grounds in front of the villa (now separated by a busy main road) stands Palladio’s Tempietto, currently under restoration but due to reopen soon. If you’re reliant on public transport, a visit is best made by bus from Bassano via Ásolo or from Treviso – the services from Treviso to Ásolo all pass through Masèr.

Practicalities Conegliano’s tourist office is at Via XX Settembre 61 (Tues–Sun 9.30am–12.30pm and also Fri–Sun 3–6pm; T 0438.21.230, W turismo.provincia.treviso.it). The impressively revamped Canon d’Oro hotel, at Via XX Settembre 129

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(T 0438.34.246, W www.hotelcanondoro.it; 4 ), is the best place to base yourself. The same street has all you’ll need in the way of cafés, bars and restaurants; top recommendations are the excellent ﬁsh restaurant Trattoria Città di Venezia, Via XX Settembre 77, and the attached A Osteria La Bea Venezia (T 0438.23.186; Tues–Sat noon–3pm & 6.30pm–midnight, Sun noon–3pm), with a cheaper menu of local dishes. The main square is given over to a medieval pageant in mid-June, the Dama Castellana, and the streets of Conegliano host a major wine festival on the last weekend in September.

V E NI C E AND THE V E NE TO

Vittorio Veneto

| Vittorio Veneto • Belluno

Some 13km north of Conegliano, VITTORIO VENETO ﬁrst appeared on the map in 1866 when the towns of Cèneda and Serravalle (not previously the best of friends) were knotted together and rechristened in honour of Italy’s new king. A town hall was built midway between the two, with a new train station opposite, so that the visitor steps straight from the train into a sort of no-man’s-land. It’s here, too, that you’ll ﬁnd the tourist office (daily 9.30am–12.30pm & Thurs–Sun 3–6pm; T 0438.57.243) and bus station. Bus #1 runs between the two towns every thirty minutes. Six trains a day run direct from Venice to Vittorio Veneto; otherwise, it’s a short hop from Conegliano (trains roughly hourly). CÈNEDA is primarily worth a visit for the Museo della Battaglia (Tues–Sun: May–Sept 9.30am–12.30pm & 4–7pm; Oct–April 9.30am–12.30pm & 2–5pm; €3, or €5 joint ticket with the Museo del Cenedese) at Piazza G. Paolo 1, whose loggia was built by Sansovino. The museum is dedicated to the Battle of Vittorio, the ﬁnal engagement of World War I for the Italian army. SERRAVALLE, wedged up against the mouth of a gorge, is entirely different. Most of the buildings on the stage-like Piazza Marcantonio Flaminio and the neighbouring streets date from the ﬁfteenth and sixteenth centuries – the handsomest being the shield-encrusted Loggia Serravallese. This is now home of the Museo del Cenedese (same times and price as Museo della Battaglia, above), a jumble of sculptural and archeological bits, detached frescoes and minor paintings. Your time will be more proﬁtably spent in the church of San Lorenzo dei Battuti (same ticket and opening time), immediately inside the south gate, which is decorated with frescoes painted around 1450. Uncovered in 1953 and restored to rectify the damage done when Napoleon’s soldiers used the chapel as a kitchen, this is one of the best-preserved fresco cycles in the Veneto. If it’s closed, ask at the museum.

Belluno

340

BELLUNO was once a strategically important ally of Venice, and today is the capital of a province that extends mainly over the eastern Dolomites (covered in Chapter 4). Belluno’s focus of attention lies to the north – the network of the Dolomiti Bus company radiates out from here, trains run regularly up the Piave Valley to Calalzo, and the tourist handouts are geared mostly to hikers and skiers. Just four direct trains a day make the two-hour journey from Venice to Belluno, but it doesn’t add much to the journey to go from Venice to Conegliano and change there; from Padua there are twelve trains daily. Its position is Belluno’s main attraction, but the old centre calls for an hour or two’s exploration if you’re passing through. The hub of the modern town, and

The tourist office, at Piazza del Duomo 2 (daily 9am–12.30pm & 3.30–6.30pm; Oct, Nov & mid-March to mid-June closed Sun afternoon; T 0437.940.083, W www.infodolomiti.it), has a good range of information on skiing and hiking in the Dolomites. The best located of the town’s hotels is the Cappello e Cadore, just off the main square at Via Ricci 8 (T 0437.940.246, W www.albergocappello .com; 2 ), though the decor is a little tired. The best restaurant in the area is A Al Borgo, Via Anconetta 8 (T 0437.926.755; Mon noon–2.30pm, Wed–Sun noon–2.30pm & 7.30–10pm); it’s a couple of kilometres from the centre (cross the river and head for the town of Feltre), but worth the trip – it offers fantastic food in a delightful setting, and you can eat well for under €30.

| Travel details

Practicalities

V E NI C E AND THE V E NE TO

where you’ll ﬁnd its most popular bars and cafés, is the wide Piazza dei Martiri, off the south side of which a road leads to the Piazza del Duomo, the kernel of the old town. The sixteenth-century Duomo, an amalgam of the Gothic and Classical, was designed by Tullio Lombardo. There are a couple of good paintings inside: one by Andrea Schiavone (ﬁrst altar on right) and one by Jacopo Bassano (third altar on right). Occupying one complete side of the Piazza del Duomo is the residence of the Venetian administrators of the town, the Palazzo dei Rettori, a frilly lateﬁfteenth-century building dolled up with Baroque trimmings. A relic of more independent times stands on the right – the twelfth-century Torre Civica, all that’s left of the medieval castle. Continuing round the piazza at no. 16, along the side of the town hall, you’ll ﬁnd the Museo Civico (May–Sept Tues–Sun 10am–1pm & 4–6pm; Oct–April Mon & Wed 9am–1pm, Tues, Thurs, Fri & Sat 9am–1pm & 3–6pm; €3): the collection is strong on the work of Belluno’s three best-known artists – the painters Sebastiano and Marco Ricci and the sculptor-woodcarver Andrea Brustolon – all of whom were born here between 1659 and 1673. Via Duomo ends at the Piazza del Mercato, a tiny square hemmed in by porticoed Renaissance buildings. The principal street of the old town, Via Mezzaterra, goes down to the medieval Porta Rugo (veer left along the cobbled Via Santa Croce about 50m from the end), from where the view up into the mountains is magniﬁcent.

Travel details Trains Belluno to: Conegliano (8 daily; 55min); Vittorio Veneto (10 daily; 35–55min). Castelfranco to: Padua (every 30min–1hr; 35min); Treviso (every 20min–1hr; 20–30min); Venice (every 30min–1hr; 45min–1hr 10min). Conegliano to: Belluno (9 daily; 55min–1hr 15min); Udine (every 30min; 50min–1hr 15min); Venice (every 30min; 50min–1hr 10min); Vittorio Veneto (every 40min–1hr; 15–25min). Padua to: Bassano (hourly; 1hr 5min); Belluno (13 daily; 1hr 45min–2hr 15min); Milan (every 30min–1hr; 2hr); Venice (every 15min; 25–55min); Verona (every 30min; 35min–1hr 25min); Vicenza (every 20min; 15min–1hr).

Treviso to: Udine (every 40min; 1hr 10min–1hr 40min); Venice (every 20min; 30–40min); Vicenza (hourly; 1hr 10min–1hr 30min). Venice to: Bassano (hourly; 1hr 15min–1hr 40min); Belluno (4 daily; 1hr 50min–2hr 20min); Conegliano (every 30min; 50min–1hr 10min); Milan (24 daily; 2hr 35min–3hr 30min); Padua (every 15min; 25–50min); Treviso (every 20min; 30–40min); Trieste (every 30min; 2hr 10min–3hr); Udine (every 30min; 1hr 50min–2hr 20min); Verona (every 30min; 1hr 10min–2hr 25min); Vicenza (every 30min; 30min–1hr 15min); Vittorio Veneto (6 daily; 1hr 10min–1hr 20min). Verona to: Milan (every 30min; 1hr 25min–1hr 55min); Padua (every 30min; 40min–1hr 25min);

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Venice (every 30min; 1hr–2hr 15min); Vicenza (every 30min; 25min–1hr). Vicenza to: Castelfranco (every 40min–1hr; 30–45min); Cittadella (hourly; 25min); Milan (every 30min–1hr; 1hr 50min); Padua (every 20min; 15–55min); Treviso (hourly; 1hr); Venice (every 30min; 45min–1hr 15min); Verona (every 15–30min; 25min–1hr).

Buses V E NI C E AND THE V E NE TO

| Travel details 342

Bassano to: Ásolo (hourly; 20–30min); Masèr (10 daily; 30–40min).

Padua to: Bassano (every 30min; 1hr 15min). Treviso to: Ásolo (10 daily; 1hr); Bassano (hourly; 1hr 30min); Castelfranco (every 30min; 50min); Conegliano (every 30min; 45min); Padua (every 30min; 1hr 10min); Venice (every 20min; 55min); Vittorio Veneto (every 30min; 1hr 15min). Venice to: Malcontenta (hourly; 20min); Strà (every 30min; 45min). Vicenza to: Bassano (hourly; 1hr); Padova (every 30min; 30min–1hr). Vittorio Veneto to: Belluno (1 daily; 1hr); Conegliano (11 daily; 45min).

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CHAPTER 6

Highlights

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Trieste From the castle atop San Giusto hill, take in a panoramic view of this elegant and inviting maritime city. See p.346

✱

The Barcolana The Mediterranean‘s largest and most spectacular regatta takes place in the Gulf of Trieste in October. See p.350

✱

| Highlights

✱

Grotta Gigante The world’s largest accessible cave. See p.355

✱

Aquileia’s basilica The glorious fourth-century mosaic pavements rank among the most important monuments of early Christendom. See p.359

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Udine’s Piazza della Libertà The central piazza of the region’s second town is a perfect ensemble of historic Venetian buildings. See p.364

✱

Tempietto Longobardo The exquisite statues in this tiny Cividale chapel are among the most splendid ninth-century works. See p.367

Osmizze An osmizza lunch is a taste of the Carso’s Slovene culture. See p.355

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Mosaic pavement at the basilica of Aquileia

6

Friuli-Venezia Giulia

E

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stablished only in 1963 and given special status as one of Italy’s ﬁve semiautonomous regions, Friuli-Venezia Giulia is proudly odd, even in its name (Friuli is a corruption of the ancient name for modern-day Cividale, Foro Iulii “Forum of Julius” while Venezia Giulia “Julian Venetia” also references the area’s abiding association with Caesar). Bordering Austria to the north and Slovenia to the east, it has always been a major bone of contention among rival powers. Today, Slavic, Germanic and Italian populations all call it home and you may hear the distinct sound of Friulano being spoken (a Romance language related to Swiss Romansch). The area’s landscapes are equally varied with one-half alps and about one-third limestone plateaux (carso) and alluvial plains, with coastal shelving adorning the Adriatic. The cities and towns here are as wildly dissimilar as one might expect. Trieste, the capital, is an urbanely elegant Habsburg creation, instituted by Austria to showcase the empire’s greatest port. In spirit and appearance it is essentially Central European, a character it shares with Gorizia, to the north, though the latter has an even more Slavic ﬂavour, and in fact straddles the border with Slovenia. Both cities beneﬁt from castles looming on a central hilltop, affording memorable views, and provide access to walkabouts in the Carso – the windswept, cave-riven terrain that extends from here on eastward into Slovenia – while Trieste also boasts the classy beach resorts of the Triestine Riviera. A bit further along, Udine’s architecture and art collections evoke Venice at its grandest, while tiny and ancient Cividale del Friuli preserves a picturesque historic centre perched on the gorge of the Natisone River. The archeologically minded, however, head straight west to Aquileia, site of some of the most important Roman and most extraordinary Christian remains in Italy, and to the lagoon resort of Grado, which conceals a beautiful, early Christian centre crowded round by beach hotels. Historically, what unites the region is its perennial role as a link between the Mediterranean and Central Europe. It has been repeatedly overrun – sometimes enriched, but often laid waste – from east and west and north, by the Romans, Huns, Goths, Lombards, Nazis and even the Cossacks. By turns, it has been lorded over by the Venetian Republic, Napoleonic France and the Austrian Empire. More recently, the area witnessed some of the most savage ﬁghting of World War I, and World War II saw Fascism become especially virulent in Trieste, site of one of Italy’s two death camps. Today, right-wing and xenophobic tendencies are still strong in the region, having peaked in the mid-1990s, when federalists demanding a separate northern Italian state or “Lega Nord” made up around 25 percent of the electorate. While most Friulani certainly want Italian nationality, the sociopolitical baggage of

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Rome and the south strike many as a drag in every way. Currently, economic anxiety and general malaise about Italy’s direction have resulted in something of a conservative resurgence.

Trieste Framed by the green and white cliffs of a limestone plateau and facing the blue Adriatic, TRIESTE offers an idyllic panorama from its hilltop citadel, at least when the rather endemic overcast conditions give way to sparkling sunshine. But in any weather, there’s a distinct atmosphere of both grandeur and warm welcome. The city’s main squares are adorned with spectacular Neoclassical buildings, and the much-photographed canal, clustered with open-air cafés, is a reminder that, just like Venice and its lagoon, this city has had its glorious seafaring history, too. Trieste on the whole is a fascinating multicultural mix: an imperial creation built to play a role that no longer exists, though like so many ports in Europe, the seediness that long prevailed, still evident in some areas around the train station, is now giving way to cautious yet determined optimism. Some history 346

Trieste dates back as far as the third millennium BC. Roman ruins here and there attest to its incorporation into the Roman Republic in 178 BC, when it was called Tergeste. However, with the exception of the castle and cathedral of San Giusto

Ljubljana

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| Trieste

hill, and the tiny medieval quarter below it, the city’s whole pre-nineteenthcentury history seems dim and vague beside the massive Neoclassical architecture of the Borgo Teresiano – the name given to the modern city centre, after Empress Maria Theresa (1740–80), who initiated the development. The Austrians spared no expense on embellishing the city that would become the Habsburg Empire’s premier seaport. For a time, it even eclipsed Venice, but its heyday was short-lived and drew to an ignominious close after 1918, when the city became Italian. Trieste soon discovered that despite the good intentions of all concerned, Italy really had no economic use for it. The city languished for over sixty years, but more recently things have picked up. The large container port to the south of the centre has seen an increase in seaborne trade, the labyrinthine medieval quarter has received a tasteful facelift, and the €650-million redevelopment of the Porto Vecchio in the heart of town has provided welcome leisure and business facilities. Lying on the political and ethnic fault-line between the Latin and Slavic worlds, Trieste has long been a city of political extremes. In the nineteenth century it was a hotbed of irredentismo – an Italian nationalist movement to “redeem” the Austrian lands of Trieste, Istria and the Trentino. After 1918 the tensions increased, leading to a strong Fascist presence in Friuli-Venezia Giulia. Yugoslavia and the Allies fought over Trieste until 1954, when the city and a connecting strip of coast were secured for Italy, though a deﬁnitive border settlement was not reached until 1975. Tito kept Istria, prompting huge numbers of its fearful Italian population to abandon the peninsula: Fiume (Rijeka), for example, lost 58,000 of its 60,000 Italians. The Slovene population of the area around Trieste, previously in the majority, suddenly found itself treated as second-class citizens, with Italians dominant politically and culturally; nationalist parties built support on the back

Regional food and wine Food in Friuli-Venezia Giulia reﬂects the cultural eclecticism of the place and veers towards the simple and hearty, from thick soups to warming stews, often – and unusually – combining sweet and savoury ingredients. One such dish is cialzons, a ravioli-type pasta ﬁlled with spinach, chocolate, raisins and nutmeg, among other dubious delights, while less-challenging menu choices include polenta accompanied by squazeto alla friulana (lamb casserole), jota friulana, a thick meat, bean and cabbage stew, and brovada, another distinct speciality, made from wine-fermented turnips. Deﬁnitely worth seeking out is the delicious prosciutto from the town of San Daniele, salted and cured raw ham that melts in the mouth. Desserts head very much eastwards, with rich, Central European-inﬂuenced cakes ﬁlled with nuts and dried fruit – look out for presnitz and gubana. If Friuli-Venezia Giulia does have something to sing about, it’s the region’s classy wines, especially its whites. The region is second only to Trentino-Alto Adige for DOC wines, with the mix of Alpine and Adriatic air creating excellent conditions, most notably in Collio Goriziano and Colli Orientali del Friuli, two areas running up against the Slovenian border. Tocai has historically been the best-known white, dry and aromatic and produced here since at least the seventeenth century. However, in 2006, the moniker ﬁnally lost a ﬁfty-year dispute over the similarity of its name to Hungarian Tokajj, a dessert wine derived from entirely different grapes. By EU ruling, only Hungarian wines can now bear any variant of the name, so Friuli Tocai should ofﬁcially be referred to as “Friulano”. Meanwhile, Picolit, a sweet white hugely popular two centuries ago, is making a comeback to widespread acclaim. Reds, though not as prestigious, include Refosco and the highly drinkable Terrano. For the full experience of speciﬁcally Friulano-Slovene country cookery, seek out one of the traditional osmizze eateries (see box, p.355).

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The FVG Card When you arrive in town, consider buying the FVG Card, available at many hotels and at all tourist ofﬁces (€15 for 48hr, €20 for 72hr and €29 for a week), of advantage when exploring the entire region. Among other things, it entitles you to discounts on sport and recreation facilities, some hotels and restaurants, as well as free access to virtually all public museums, several guided tours and free use of some public transport, including the tranvia (see p.355).

Arrival, getting around and information

| Trieste

Trieste’s Piazza Libertà bus station is right by the central train station, ten minutes’ walk from the town centre. The nearest airport is at Ronchi dei Legionari (T 0481.773.224, W www.aeroporto.fvg.it), 31km northwest of the city, connected to the bus station by APT bus #51 (every 30min; 50min; €3 from the machine directly outside arrivals, €1 surcharge if ticket bought on bus; freephone T 800.955.957, W www.aptgorizia.it). A taxi should cost about €40. On the whole, sightseeing on foot will prove most rewarding. City buses (freephone T 800.016.675, W www.triestetrasporti.it) cost €1.10 for any journey of up to an hour; provincial buses cost a standard €1.20, except private APT services which depend on distance. Timetables and tickets can be bought from automatic machines at main stops or from newsagents and tabacchi; a ten-ticket bloquetto saves a couple of euros and is more convenient than buying individual tickets. The helpful main tourist office is on the central Piazza Unità d’Italia 4/B (daily 9am–7pm; T 040.347.8312, W www.turismofvg.it).

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of the tensions between the two communities. Nowadays, however, Slovenes and Italians are in the phase of inevitable rapprochement, and casual visitors will notice few, if any, signs of regressive jingoism. In fact, Trieste also has a long socialist and cosmopolitan intellectual tradition intimately embracing the city’s ever-burgeoning café culture. Historically, foreign writers based themselves around Trieste, most famously James Joyce (see box, p.352) and Rainer Maria Rilke, and native literati included Umberto Saba and Italo Svevo. Freud also spent some time researching in Trieste as a medical student, and the city became the ﬁrst Italian centre of psychoanalytical thought under Freud’s pupil Edoardo Weiss.

Accommodation Recent years have seen an improvement in the accommodation available in Trieste. The cheapest decent hotels are all still between the train station and the town centre, but hotels in the restored old quarter provide atmospheric alternatives. Hotels Alabarda Via Valdirivo 22 T040.630.269, Wwww .hotelalabarda.it. A friendly, excellent-value option with TVs in all its eighteen clean rooms, plus internet facilities. Double glazing keeps out most of the noise from the busy street outside. Most rooms have private bath, some have a/c. 2 Centrale Via Amilchere Ponchielli 1 T040.639.482, Wwww.triestehotelcentrale.com. An attractive ﬁnd in a pedestrianized zone facing the canal. Invitingly furnished rooms and very helpful staff. 2

Centro Via Roma 13 T040.347.8790, Wwww.hotelcentrotrieste.it. Bright and spotlessly clean rooms in the most pleasant, moderately priced place in town. Ask for one of the quieter rooms at the back. There’s an equally excellent facility on the ﬂoor above, Al Canal Grande, run by the same family. Ten percent discount for guests showing a copy of this book. 3 Continentale Via San Nicolò 25 T040.631.717, Wwww.continentalehotel.com. On a tranquil pedestrianized street, this is one of Trieste’s ﬁnest

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four-stars. Rooms are well-appointed and elegant, while staff are most helpful and attentive. The dining room is in grand café style. 6 Marta Via Valdirivo 11 T 040.660.242, Wwww .hotelmarta.it. Pleasantly furnished and clean rooms, all with TV; good-value, family-style. Internet available. 2 Parenzo Via degli Artisti 8 T040.631.133, W www.hotelparenzo.com. An immaculate and welcoming three-star establishment with luxury touches such as bathrobes and slippers. Free wi-ﬁ. 4 Urban Androna Chiusa 4 T040.302.065, Wwww .urbanhotel.it. An ultramodern design hotel in the labyrinthine heart of the recently renovated medieval quarter, a study in contrast and cuttingedge luxury. Special pluses include valet parking and your own PC. 8

Hostel and campsite Obelisco Strada Nuova per Opicina 37 T040.212.744, Wwww.campeggiobelisco.it. Campsite on an airy hill 7km away in the Carso, below Opicina; from Piazza Oberdan take either bus #4 or the tranvia (cable tramway), which runs until 8pm: stop at the obelisk, cross over the tracks and you’ll see a sign to the campsite which is 1min walk away. Open all year. Ostello Tergeste Viale Miramare 331 T0404.224.102, Wwww.aighostels.com. Basic facilities but this HI hostel boasts stunning sea views, and is just 500m from Castello Miramare (see p.357) 5km out of the city. Take bus #51 from the airport, which lets you off about 500m away, or #36 from the station to Grignano and get off at Bivio al Miramare, from where it’s a 5min walk. Dorm beds start at €16.

The City

| Trieste

Today Triestine life takes place in the grid-like streets of the Borgo Teresiano, but the focal point of the city’s pre-modern history, and its prime tourist site, is San Giusto hill, named after the patron saint of the city. Scattered elsewhere around the Old Town are some interesting museums and a clutch of churches and Roman remains that can easily take up a day’s strolling, while you should count on at least four days to do justice to the major attractions and pleasures of greater Trieste. San Giusto

At the very summit of San Giusto hill, overlooking the remnants of the Roman forum, is the Castello (Tues–Sun 9am–7pm; €4), a ﬁfteenth-century Venetian fortress. There’s nothing much to see inside, but a walk round the ramparts offers ﬁne views of the new town and the busy port below, while beyond the city conﬁnes the high escarpment of the Carso looms over the Adriatic. Its museum houses a small collection of archeological ﬁnds, including antique weaponry. More interesting is the Cattedrale di San Giusto (Mon–Sat 7.30am–noon & 2.30–6.30pm, Sun 7.30am–noon & 2.30–7.30pm; free, campanile €1.50), built on the ruins of a ﬁrst-century AD Roman structure. Some ancient fragments remain: the base of the campanile has been scalloped away to reveal the original pillars, the columns at the entrance are actually stelae from a Roman tomb and part of the Roman ﬂoor mosaic is incorporated in the present ﬂooring. In around 1050 an earlier Christian chapel was replaced by two churches, the Basilica di Santa

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Early to mid-October features the Barcolana (Wwww.barcolana.it), Italy’s largest sailing regatta with countless participants of all types skimming the whitecaps of the bay; there are parties galore on shore and ten days of festivities, day and night. From spring to autumn, events abound, including at the Teatro Verdi (T040.672.2111, Wwww.teatroverdi-trieste.com), which stages operas and musicals throughout the year. For details, contact the tourist ofﬁce or consult Il Piccolo, Trieste’s daily paper; check for festivals in the Carso villages, too.

The tiny remnant of the Città Vecchia (Old Town) lies between the castle hill and the Stazione Maríttima below. It has been freshly restored – even at risk of over-restoration, as evidenced by the rather jarring presence of a design hotel (the Urban) inserted into its tilting medieval structures and undulating lanes. Still, the area is delightful for a stroll, and farther down Via della Cattedrale, the tiny, early Romanesque San Silvestro (Thurs & Sat 10am–noon; free) is worth a look as the city’s oldest extant church; it’s now used by adherents of the rare Helvetic-Waldensian sect. A short way below are the heavily restored remains of the Roman theatre, where performances are sometimes staged during the city’s spring–autumn festival season. There’s little else of monumental note in the old city, but mosaic enthusiasts may want to stop off at the remains of the Basilica Paleocristiana (Wed 10am–noon, or by appointment; T 040.43.631; free) under the building at Via Madonna del Mare 11. The evocative Arco di Riccardo, on the nearby Piazza Barbacan, comprises reassembled remnants of the Roman walls dating from 33 BC, while excavation works nearby are revealing more traces of the city’s ancient imperial past and will eventually complete an archeological tourist trail from San Giusto down to Piazza Unità (see below).

| Trieste

The Old Town

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Maria Assunta and the Cappella di San Giusto. The site was further expanded in the early thirteenth century in an extraordinary stroke of pragmatic architectural genius: the two adjacent buildings were bridged by a high-beamed vault, forming the current cathedral nave and leaving a double aisle on each side. The complex history of the building becomes clearer if you study the arches in the interior, or look down on the apse from the castle wall behind. As it stands today, the cathedral is a typically Triestine synthesis of styles, with a serene, largely Romanesque interior marred only by an ugly modern choir. The Cappella di Santa Maria Assunta (north aisle) has ﬁne Venetian-Ravennan mosaics of the Coronation of the Virgin, revealing the Byzantine roots of the style, while the Cappella di San Giusto (south aisle) has thirteenth-century frescoes of the life of the saint, framed between Byzantine pillars. The facade is predominantly Romanesque, but includes a Gothic rose window. Still atop the central citadel, on the cobbled Via della Cattedrale, the Museo di Storia ed Arte (Tues–Sun 9am–1pm; €4) houses a collection of cultural plunder that embraces Himalayan sculpture, Egyptian manuscripts and Roman glass. Part of the museum, the Orto Lapidario, is a pleasant environment in which fragments of classical statuary, pottery and inscriptions are arranged on benches and against walls, among cow-parsley and miniature palm trees. The little Corinthian temple on the upper level contains the remains of J.J. Winckelmann (1717–68), the German archeologist and theorist of Neoclassicism, who was murdered in Trieste by a man to whom he had shown off his collection of antique coins.

The Borgo Teresiano and around

To the north of the old centre, Trieste’s “new” town, the Borgo Teresiano, is imposingly laid out in a Neoclassical style imported from nineteenth-century Vienna, with wide boulevards and a truly vast piazza on the waterfront. The focus of the main grid of streets is the picturesque Piazza Sant’Antonio Nuovo, with its small yacht basin overlooked by cafés and dominated by two churches: the Neoclassical hulk of Sant’Antonio Thaumaturgo and the smaller, more appealing Serbian Orthodox San Spiridione. The bridge here is where you’ll pass a strolling James Joyce lost in literary rumination (see box, p.352). The real heart of town, however, is the grandiose Piazza Unità d’Italia, directly below the hill

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Joyce in Trieste

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From 1905 to 1915, and again in 1919–20, James Joyce and his wife Nora lived in Trieste. After staying at Piazza Ponterosso 3 for a month, they moved to the third-ﬂoor ﬂat at Via San Nicolò 30. (In 1919 the poet Umberto Saba bought a bookshop on the ground ﬂoor at the same address. The two writers seem never to have met, though they had a common friend in the novelist Italo Svevo.) There’s a plaque in Via San Nicolò, and one at Via Bramante 4, quoting the postcard that Joyce despatched in 1915 to his brother Stanislaus, whose Irredentist sympathies had landed him in an Austrian internment camp. The postcard announced that the ﬁrst chapter of James’s new work, Ulysses, was ﬁnished. For Joyce fans the tourist ofﬁce publishes a leaﬂet listing places associated with him, including the wry bronze statue of the writer, strolling bemusedly across the little canal bridge of Via Roma.

| Trieste

of San Giusto. Built mostly by Giuseppe Bruni in the late nineteenth century, the expanse of ﬂagstones with one side open to the water is deliberately reminiscent of Venice’s Piazza and Piazzetta – Trieste had commercially eclipsed the older city some years before. Projecting into the harbour nearby, the Molo Audace, named after the ﬁrst boat of Italian soldiers to land here in 1918, is the venue for the evening passeggiata. Trieste’s principal museum is the Revoltella (Mon, Wed, Sat & Sun 10am–6pm, Thurs & Fri 10am–11pm; €6.50, €7.50 for special exhibitions; W www.museo revoltella.it), Via Armando Diaz 27, housed in a Viennese-style palazzo bequeathed to the city by the ﬁnancier Baron Pasquale Revoltella in 1869. Its combined display of nineteenth-century stately home furnishings and Triestine paintings is well worth a look, and the adjacent palace, redesigned by the architect Carlo Scarpa, houses an extensive collection of modern art, including works by Fontana, Guttoso, Carrà and de Chirico. The smaller Museo Sartorio, Largo Papa Giovanni XXIII 1 (Tues–Sun 9am–1pm; €5.50), has an early fourteenth-century Santa Chiara triptych and an important collection of drawings by Tiepolo. One of the most hauntingly dark periods of modern European history is embodied by the Risiera di San Sabba, overlooking the southern ﬂank of Trieste’s port at Via Palatucci 5 (daily 9am–7pm; free, guided tours upon request €2.70), on the #8 (from the train station and from Piazza Unità) and #10 (from Piazza Tommaseo) bus routes. This was one of only two concentration camps in Italy and now houses a permanent exhibition that serves as a reminder of Fascist crimes in the region. Nobody knows exactly how many prisoners were burned in the Risiera crematorium before the Yugoslavs liberated the city on May 1, 1945, but a ﬁgure of ﬁve thousand is usually cited by historians. Nazism had plenty of sympathizers in this part of Italy: in 1920 Mussolini extolled the zealots of Friuli-Venezia Giulia as model Fascists, and the commander of the camp was, in fact, a local man.

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Triestine cuisine is as mixed as its population, with goulash, potato noodles and cheese dumplings on many menus, as well as some superb ﬁsh dishes. The local terrano, a very sharp red wine grown only on the limestone highlands, was reputedly the favourite of the Roman Empress Livia and is supposed to be good for the blood. It’s delicious in any event and should be tried, ideally as an accompaniment to the heavy Triestine food. For less stolid meals, investigate the osmizze (see box, p.355), impromptu eating places, traditionally in the hinterland of the Carso, which

offer the simplest of local produce at rock-bottom prices. Via C. Battisti, east of Sant’Antonio, is good for food shops – cheeses, cooked meats, olives and pasta in its many guises are piled high in the windows. Cafés and gelaterie

Coffee (see box below) and ice cream lovers are well catered for in Trieste with a host of places tempting you to try their products – the best area to head for is leafy, pedestrian-only Viale XX Settembre, known as the Acquedotto (“aqueduct”), where citizens stroll in the evening.

| Trieste

Crèmcaffè Piazza Goldoni 10. Excellent torrefazione and the city’s oldest, so ignore the harsh lighting and queue up for an espresso, or make it a double with a pastry. Closes at 7pm. Grom Via San Nicolò 18/B. Part of a national chain of all-natural gelati that have taken northern Italy by storm. Flavours vary according to season and to which quality ingredients are available. Classics include bacio, Syrian pistachio and Madagascan vanilla. La Triestina Via di Cavana 2. Another great caffeine choice in an area replete with good food choices. This torrefazione skilfully roast their own select coffee beans in the great Triestine tradition. Pasticceria Pirona Largo Barriera Vecchia 12. Since 1900 this shop has been the place to seek out for truly extraordinary pastry – James Joyce was a regular. Closed Mon.

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Caffè degli Specchi Piazza Unità 7. Better for its excellent position on Trieste’s main square than its highly polished interior, the city’s most famous café remains top choice for wine-sipping and people-watching. Caffè San Marco Via C. Battisti 18/A. Trieste’s favourite café has occupied its premises for some eighty years. It’s a huge, relaxed place with a clientele of all ages chatting and playing chess in the mahogany-and-mirrored Art Nouveau-style interior. Closed Mon. Caffè Tommaseo Piazza Tommaseo. Much of the historic style of the city’s oldest café – a rendezvous for Italian nationalists in the nineteenth century – was lost in the latest refurbishment, but it offers a convivial multiroomed setting featuring spectacular sweets, a full restaurant and frequent live music.

Restaurants

Trieste has a huge range of good-value restaurants scattered around both the new and old towns. Especially attractive is the pedestrian-only thoroughfare Viale XX Settembre, which sports a number of lively places among its bars and cinemas. More expensive choices tend to specialize in ﬁsh, of which branzino and sogliola (sea bass and sole) are local favourites. Booking is not usually necessary. Ai Fiori Piazza Hortis 7 T040.300.633. Gourmet, yet home-like, trattoria on a leafy square. Artful ﬁsh dishes are the focus, with a set menu including wine for €30. Closed Sun.

Al Barattolo Piazza Sant’Antonio 2/D T040.631.480. Deservedly popular place, with friendly staff, tasty Southern Italian-style food, and pleasant outdoor seating in this pretty square in the summer. Hearty Neapolitan-style pizzas for under €10.

Trieste and the roasted bean Trieste’s love affair with coffee dates back to the mid-eighteenth century, when importing began and when the ﬁrst coffee shops opened in emulation of Vienna. Even now it’s the leading coffee port in the Mediterranean – 40 percent of Italy’s coffee arrives here – and Trieste’s denizens imbibe twice as much on average as their fellow countrymen. One of the pleasures of walking around the city centre is the unexpected scent of roasting beans emanating from choice establishments – known as torrefazioni – where experts toast to order the world’s most select varieties. The city’s most famous brand is Illy, founded in 1933 and producer of a world-renowned 100 percent Arabica blend. So supreme is the coffee culture in the city that Riccardo Illy, scion of the clan, has held the ofﬁces of mayor and regional president, among numerous other posts.

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Da Giovanni Via S. Lazzaro 14/B T 040.639.396. Simple trattoria, with meals served at bench tables. Hams hanging from the ceiling and barrels of wine behind the bar lend a distinctly rustic air. Mixed fried ﬁsh are a speciality, as well as various pork dishes, gammon and bowls of steaming jota, bean and sauerkraut soup. Expect €20–25 per person. Closed Sun. Da Libero Antica Hostaria Via Risorta 7/A T 040.301.113. This old-fashioned establishment down the inland side of the castle hill is virtually the last remaining genuine osteria in the city, full of quirky mementoes collected by the proprietor over the decades. Tourist menu €16, with mostly meat options. Closed Sun. Da Pepi Buffet Via Cassa di Risparmio 3 T 040.366.858. Deeply traditional option that’s the perfect place for snacks and lunches. The cooking emphasizes Trieste’s Austrian connections with excellent sausages, but also such Italian delicacies as sun-dried tomatoes and marinated artichoke hearts. Closed Sun.

El Fornel Via dei Fornelli 1 T040.322.0262. Very popular place that concentrates on the food – the freshest ﬁsh and seafood – set amid extraordinary nautical mosaic ﬂoors. Family-style service where you can easily spend no more than €15. Portions are truly enormous. Closed Sun. Fratelli la Bufala Via Roma 11 T040.348.1316. Part of a high-quality, low-price chain, where you can ﬁnd extraordinary pizza and other authentic specialities, for just €10–20 a head. Interesting works of art decorate the atmospheric interior. La Piazzetta Piazza Cavana 1/B T 040.300.323. Good value at under €20 per person (pasta dishes €7–8), including wine, with ﬁsh as a speciality in this cosy ﬁnd towards the old quarter. Outdoor seating on the quiet square. Closed Mon. Roba de Osmiza Via della Torretta 1 T040.301.313. Feast on products straight from the Carso countryside, including prosciutto crudo, olives and eggs, with mains at €10–15. Closed every eight days, according to tradition.

| Trieste

Bars

Indoor-outdoor wine bars have now become a signature Triestine experience, and many of the city’s establishments are as glossy as the top-notch cafés. Everywhere you turn, weather permitting, young sophisticates ﬁll the outside tables along the broad sidewalks. For late drinking, Via Madonna del Mare, on the castle hill, has a number of bars whose names, managements and popularity come and go each year – it’s best to follow your ears to where the crowds are. Circus Via San Lazzaro 9. A trendy, buzzing wine bar decorated with old movie posters, and with tables outside. Drinks come with substantial snacks. Closed Sun. Naima Via Rosetti 6. Younger and more studenty than most, this is basically a bar with occasional live music and dancing. Excellent for chilling on the

black leather sofas but get there before midnight to claim your spot. Daily 7.30pm–3am. Rex Café Gourmet Galleria Protti 1. Modern wine and music bar with a jazzy lounge setting and outdoor tables, too. Open early every day for breakfast, then lunch, and on till 2am, except for Sun, when it closes at 10pm.

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Car rental At Molo dei Bersaglieri 3: Avis T 040.300.820; Europcar T 040.322.0820; Hertz T 040.322.0098. At the airport: Avis T 0481.777.085; Europcar T 0481.778.920; Hertz T 0481.777.025. Club Alpino Italiano Via Donota 2 T040.630.464. Consulates UK, Via Dante Alighieri 7 (Tues 10am–noon, Fri 2.30–4.30pm; T 040.347.8303); US Consular Agency, Via Roma 15 (Mon–Fri 10am–noon; T 040.660.177). Ferries Agemar, Piazza Duca degli Abruzzi 1/A (T 040.363.737, W www.agemar.it), is a travel agent selling ferry tickets to Grado and Ligano, Piran (Slovenia), Brijuni and Rovinj (Croatia).

Hospital Ospedale Maggiore, Piazza dell’Ospedale T040.399.1111; in an emergency dial T118. Internet access KNULP, Via Madonna del Mare 7/A, is a bookshop with internet access. For use of computer, €2.50/hr; wi-ﬁ €1/hr. Open till midnight. Laundry Lava & Suga, Via del Sale 1/A. Daily 7am–3am. Police The Questura is at Via Tor Bandena 6 (T040.379.0111). Otherwise call T113. Post ofﬁce The main post ofﬁce is in Piazza Vittorio Veneto 1 (Mon–Sat 8.30am–7pm). Taxis Radio Taxi T040.307.730.

Around Trieste: the Carso

The most picturesque way up into the Carso is to take the tranvia (cable tramway; 7.30am–8pm; every 20min; €1.10, same ticket as for buses) from Trieste’s Piazza Oberdan to the village of Opicina, at the edge of the plateau. From the tram stop, cross the square and take bus #42 (which you can also take all the way from Trieste) to one of the Carso’s highlights, the Grotta Gigante (guided visits daily:

| Around Trieste: the Carso

Grotta Gigante and Rupingrande

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The CARSO is the Italian name for the terrain of limestone uplands that rise from the plain of the Veneto south of Monfalcone and eventually merge into the Istrian plateau. Although within a thirty-minute bus ride of Trieste, it feels like an entirely different country, and is geologically, botanically and demographically distinct from anywhere else in Italy. Most of the Carso now lies within Slovenia (its Slovene name is Kras), and even the narrow strip inside Italy, though supporting a population of just 20,000, remains distinctively Slovene in culture, boasting places with names like Zagradec and Koludrovica. The dour villages of thick-walled houses seem to hunker down against the bora, the northeasterly wind which can blast this area at any time of year – when it’s especially ﬁerce, ropes are strung along the steeper streets in Trieste. Like all limestone country, the environment is harsh: arid in summer and sometimes snowbound in winter. The surface of the plateau is studded with sinkholes left by streams which have slowly carved their way underground, sometimes reappearing miles away on the coast. The abundance of caves has even led to the German name for the area, karst, becoming the standard geographical term for this type of terrain. The distinctive landscape and natural environment make for ﬁne walking, and several bus services run to the Carso from Piazza Oberdan in central Trieste, including the #42 and #44. The tourist office publishes a useful map of the network of numbered footpaths in the Carso; it shouldn’t be used for serious navigation but is a useful guide to what’s possible – and it would be difficult to get yourself seriously lost. If the scenery isn’t as grand as the Dolomites, the pace is gentler, especially if you can break your expedition at an osmizza (see box below).

Osmizze Perhaps the best way to experience the Slovene culture of the Carso is to ﬁnd an osmizza (see p.354 for one in Trieste itself), an informal restaurant where farmers sell their own produce, such as home-cured meats, cheese, olives, hard-boiled eggs, bread and wine. The name comes from the Slovene word osem “eight days”, which was the period of time allowed by imperial edict for the peasants to sell their wares. The goods are usually very cheap, and a frequent bonus is a stunning view over the bay of Trieste or the limestone hills behind the city. The problem with osmizze is that they are often temporary, don’t advertise, and usually lie off the beaten track – which makes them all the more worth tracking down. Your best bet is to ask the tourist ofﬁce for a list or look at W www.interware.it/tsr/ambiente/carso/osmizze.htm (Italian only). Otherwise, as long as you don’t mind taking a few detours, just take a #44 bus from outside the station in Trieste, get off at the villages Prosecco or Contovello, and start asking if there is an osmizza nearby. You’ll know you are getting warm when you see arrows on clumps of leaves suspended from archways and lampposts: they point the way to the nearest osmizza.

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| Around Trieste: the Carso 356

April–Sept every 30min 10am–6pm; March & Oct hourly 10am–4pm; Nov–Feb hourly 10am–1pm & 2–4pm; €9), the world’s largest accessible cave, and the second-largest natural chamber anywhere in the world (the largest is in Malaysia). As it’s 107m deep by 208m broad, the dome of St Peter’s would ﬁt comfortably inside. It’s a steady 11°C inside, so come prepared. The cave is impressive in scale and, like most of the caves in the Carso, was created by the erosive action of a river, in this case the Timavo, which sank deeper and deeper underground before changing course (the cave is now dry). The stalactites and stalagmites grew later, formed by deposits of calcium carbonate and colourful metal oxides. Much more recently, ferns and moss have started to grow in what was previously a lifeless environment, thanks to photosynthesis triggered by electric lighting. The two long “pillars” in the centre of the cave are in fact wires sheathed in plastic. At the bottom end two super-accurate pendulums are suspended, used to measure seismic shifts in isolation from surface noise and air currents. If the tour of the cave has given you an appetite, visit the nearby trattoria Milic (T 040.327.330; closed Mon), close to the bus stop, which serves tasty and reasonably priced country dishes. Apart from the Grotta Gigante, the main sights to head for are in and around the village of RUPINGRANDE (aka Monrupino), just 3km northeast of the cave and also on the #42 bus route. A short walk east of the village is a fortress built in the fourteenth century to defend the area from Turkish incursions, while in Rupingrande itself the Casa Carsica (April–Oct Sun & hols 11am–12.30pm & 3–5pm, or by appointment; T 040.327.122; free) exhibits old furniture and nineteenth-century peasant costumes, as well as works by local artisans. The Casa is signposted from the central crossroads in Rupingrande. The village hosts an important Slovene folk festival, the Nozze carsiche (Carsic Wedding), on the four days leading up to the last Sunday in August in odd-numbered years.

Strada Vicentina and Val Rosandra Two walking areas near Trieste can be particularly recommended. The Strada Vicentina (or Napoleonica) is some 2km long, curving along the hillside above the city, between the Obelisco campsite (see p.350) and the hamlet of Borgo Nazario (near Prosecco). It’s a scenic but unstrenuous walk, partly shadowed by trees and partly cut through almost sheer limestone cliffs; on a clear day the views are superb. Access to the Strada Vicentina couldn’t be simpler: Obelisco is a stop on the tranvia, and the Borgo Nazario end is near Via San Nazario, where the #42 bus stops on its way back to Trieste station. The other area, the Val Rosandra, is very different. This miniature wilderness of limestone cliffs and sumac trees is the local rock-climbing headquarters and is crisscrossed with paths. Take bus #40 from Trieste’s bus station to Bagnoli Della Rosandra and follow the road at the back of the square northeast towards the hills. After about 500m or so the tarmac gives way to a path bordered on the right by a miniature Roman aqueduct – now resembling little more than a stone-lined ditch – and on the left by a stream with pools for bathing. After thirty minutes the little sanctuary church of Santa Maria in Siaris appears, perched on a spur of rock high on the right. You can climb up to it easily enough and a steep path continues up to the top of the plateau beyond. Beyond this is a waterfall, accessible by a steep path, then the tiny hamlet of Bottazzo – the last habitation before Slovenia. At the border a sign advertises a friendship path linking communities on either side of the frontier. Don’t be tempted to investigate; only locals are allowed to cross unpatrolled borders, and the military are fairly active in the area as it’s a busy crossing point for illegal immigrants.

The Triestine Riviera The thirty-odd kilometres of coastline either side of Trieste, from Múggia to the south and as far as Duino in the north, are optimistically known as the TRIESTINE RIVIERA. While beaches aren’t as good as you’ll ﬁnd further down the Adriatic, or even at nearby Grado, some ﬁne walks, historic sites and castles are worth a day-trip from Trieste. Frequent buses trace the coast road and, in summer, ferries (see p.368) call at all the coastal towns.

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| The Triestine Riviera

Directly south across the bay from Trieste, 11km away by road, MÚGGIA, the last remnant of Venice’s Istrian possessions, is now reduced to little more than a popular spot for lunch expeditions from Trieste, though the town comes into its own during carnival time. The ferry-trip across the bay from Trieste (summer only) can be a good enough reason in itself to visit, but there are also appealing signs of the past, particularly in the brightly painted buildings on the main square. On the east side of the piazza, the ﬁfteenth-century Duomo reveals its origins in its Venetian-Gothic arches and a bas-relief of Christ Pantocrator in the lunette above the main door; the handsome Palazzo dei Rettori, on the north side of the square, displays the tell-tale leone marciano, the lion of St Mark, symbol of Venice’s former hegemony here. The piazza is backed by a handful of narrow streets and tumbledown houses, many of which date back to Venetian times. On the seaward side of the piazza, the tiny mandracchio is now used as a basin for pleasure boats, while the working harbour just beyond is spoilt only by the unenviable view of Trieste’s industrial backside. Múggia’s handful of ﬁsh restaurants are all within spitting distance of the water. Top recommendation, and not just for the name, is the Trattoria Lilibontempo (T 040.927.8908; closed Tues), at Riva Nazario Sauro 10, known as the “ex-Hitler” after the former proprietor, who bore an unnerving resemblance to the Nazi dictator. Further along the harbour front and with sea views, Trattoria Risorta (T 040.271.219; closed Sun & Mon) does tasty ﬁsh dishes for around €15, or try the Due Leoni (T 040.275.227; closed Mon), opposite on the jetty, which serves similar fare at slightly cheaper prices. At Via Roma 20, in front of the tourist office (T 040.273.259; open Carnevale and July & Aug only), as well as from the port, you can pick up bus #20, which runs back to Trieste every 30min, but it’s worth visiting Múggia Vecchia, on the hilltop hard against the Slovene border and less than 20km from Croatia. It’s a steep twenty-minute walk past Múggia’s fourteenth-century castle and town walls, but bus #50 from outside the bus station, 100m inland from the main road, runs every hour or so for those who don’t fancy the climb.

Barcola and Miramare BARCOLA, 2km northwest of Trieste and connected to the city by bus #36 from the bus station, is the nearest beach resort. Developed during Trieste’s great days at the end of the nineteenth century, it is now really a suburb that comes to life in summer, when all Trieste seems to come here to chat, play cards, sunbathe and swim. Despite the cargo ships and tankers moored in the harbour, the water is moderately clean. Just short of the resort, perched on the slope of the limestone escarpment and offering stunning views along the coast, is the Faro della Vittoria, the third-tallest lighthouse in the world after New York’s Statue of Liberty and the Columbus Lighthouse in Santo Domingo. Standing at the tip of a rocky promontory 7km from Trieste, the salt-white castle of MIRAMARE is the area’s prime tourist attraction. The Archduke Ferdinand

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| Aquileia and Grado

Maximilian, Emperor Franz Josef ’s younger brother, was once forced ashore here by a squall, and resolved to buy the site. He built his dream castle and laid out its grounds between 1856 and 1870, but never lived to see it completed – having accepted Napoleon III’s offer to make him the Emperor of Mexico, Maximilian was executed by his Mexican opponents in 1867, in the line of imperial duty. His wife Carlotta later went mad, and the legend was born that anyone who spends a night in Miramare will come to a bad end. The park makes an excellent spot for a picnic, but the real draw is the castle’s kitsch interior (daily 9am–6.30pm; €6), a remarkable example of regal decadence, and carved, gilded, and inlaid in every way possible. The Monarchs’ Salon, for instance, is embellished with portraits of a King of Norway, the Emperor of Brazil, a Czar of Russia – anyone, no matter how fraudulent or despotic, as long as they’re nominal monarchs. This softens you up for the bedroom and its images of the most important events in the history of this area, pride of place going to the construction of the castle, of course. Other rooms are panelled and furnished like a ship’s quarters, reﬂecting Maximilian’s devotion to the Austrian Navy. There are a number of ways to get to Miramare, of which the simplest is to take the #36 bus from Piazza Oberdan, though the private APT service from the bus station is quicker. Trains heading west from Trieste also stop, and in summer there’s a boat service from the harbour. In July and August son et lumière productions are generally presented beside the sea, often with a regular version in English; check with Trieste’s tourist office or the castle (T 040.224.143, W www.castello-miramare .it) to conﬁrm dates and times.

Duino and Sistiana The village of DUINO, 14km northwest along the coast from Trieste, is dominated by its two castles, the Castello Vecchio, built around the tenth century and now just a ruined eyrie above the sea, and the early ﬁfteenth-century Castello Nuovo, seat of the princes of Thurn and Taxis down to the present day. The latter and its grounds opened to the public in 2003 (April–Sept Mon & Wed–Sun 9.30am–5.30pm; March & Oct Mon & Wed–Sun 9.30am–4pm; Nov–Feb Sat & Sun 9.30am–4pm; €7, not included on the FVG Card), allowing visitors to stroll through the lavishly decorated rooms, take a look at a massive doll’s house given to the family by Napoleon III’s widow and a history of the family’s eighteenth-century pan-European postal service, and admire the fantastic coastal views from the beautiful gardens and the top of the third-century Roman tower. A small café in the grounds offers refreshments or, down by the harbour, a couple of restaurants serve more substantial food – turn left out of the castle and head downhill. A pleasant footpath, the Sentiero Rilke – named after Rainer Maria Rilke who began the famous Duino Elegies while visiting the castle – runs 3km back along the coast to the campsite (T 040.299.264, W www.camping.it/english/friuli/mare pinetabaiasistiana/; April–Sept) at Sistiana, where there’s a large harbour backed by woods, and a beach. Bus #44 and the faster APT bus #51 run from Trieste’s Piazza Oberdan and bus station to Sistiana and Duino. There are also three ferries a day to Duino harbour in summer (see p.368).

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Bordered by the Tagliamento in the west and the Isonzo in the east, and drained by other rivers ﬂowing into the sandy, shallow waters at the head of the Adriatic, the triangle of ﬂatlands west of Trieste and south of Udine seems unpromising

territory for a visitor – mile upon mile of maize ﬁelds, punctuated by telegraph poles, streams, level roads and newish villages. Yet at Aquileia, the dull ﬁelds of this secretive region have yielded a wealth of Roman remains, while its glorious basilica ranks among the most important monuments of early Christendom. Just to the south, tucked away among lagoons, the popular resort of Grado with its sunbed-lined beaches and crowds of holiday-makers has a completely different atmosphere, though it too preserves some beautiful early Christian remains. If you don’t have your own transport, buses are the way to explore the region: they leave Udine for Grado at least every hour, calling at Palmanova and Aquileia on the way; from Trieste, change at Monfalcone, from where buses leave hourly for Aquileia and Grado, or take the summer-only ferry from Trieste’s Molo Pescheria to Grado’s Molo Torpediniere (see p.368).

Information and accommodation

The tourist office is in the Via Iulia Augusta bus-terminal car park at the northern edge of town (daily 9am–7pm; T 0431.919.491, W www.turismofvg.it); the Pro Loco office beside the basilica does not provide tourist information. In the newer part of town, west of the main road past the Museo Archeologico, you’ll ﬁnd the cheaper of Aquileia’s two three-star hotels, the spartan yet tidy Aquila Nera, Piazza Garibaldi 5 (T 0431.91.045, W www.hotelaquilanera.com; 2 ). The more upmarket Hotel Patriarchi sits on the main road not far from the bus terminal (T 0431.919.595, W www.hotelpatriarchi.it; 3 ). There’s also a decent HI hostel, Domus Augusta, Via Roma 25 (T 043.191.024, W www.ostelloaquileia.it; dorms €20), and a pleasant campsite, Camping Aquileia, at Via Gemina 10 (T 043.191.042, W www.camping aquileia.it; mid-May to mid-Sept), which also has bungalows (2 ).

| Aquileia and Grado

Some 45km west of Trieste, AQUILEIA was established as a Roman colony in 181 BC, its location at the eastern edge of the Venetian plain – on the bank of a navigable river a few kilometres from the sea – being ideal for defensive and trading purposes. It became the nexus for all Rome’s dealings with points east and north, and by 10 BC, when the Emperor Augustus received Herod the Great here, Aquileia was the fourth most important city in Italy, after Rome, Milan and Cápua. In 314 AD the Patriarchate of Aquileia was founded, and under the ﬁrst patriarch, Theodore, a great basilica was built. Sacked by Attila in 452 and again by the Lombards in 568, Aquileia lost the patriarchate to Grado, which was protected from invasion by its lagoons. Aquileia regained its primacy in the early eleventh century under Patriarch Poppo, who rebuilt the basilica and erected the campanile, a landmark for miles around. But regional power inevitably passed to Venice, and in 1751 Aquileia lost its patriarchate for the last time, to Udine. The sea has long since retreated, the River Natissa reduced to a reed-clogged stream, and Aquileia is now a quiet little town of 3500 people.

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Aquileia

The basilica

A UNESCO World Heritage Site, Aquileia’s rich history is made visible in the layers of the vast basilica (summer daily 9am–7pm; winter Mon–Fri 9am–1pm & 2–5pm, Sat & Sun 9am–5pm; free), just east of the main road. The earliest part, Theodore’s extraordinary mosaic pavement, was discovered below the nave ﬂoor at the beginning of the twentieth century and is thought to be the earliest surviving remnant of any Christian church. The mosaic undulates the full length of the nave in a riotous sequence of colours, patterns and images, many of which draw on Roman iconography. Look for the blond angel bearing the laurel wreath and palm frond – whether it represents the Pax Romana or Christian Victory, no one is sure. Beyond the red line extending across the aisle the Christian imagery begins

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with the story of Jonah, complete with waves, whale and ﬁsh everywhere – a motif not unconnected to the nearby Adriatic. Other mosaics from Theodore’s original basilica, depicting a whole bestiary, have been discovered around the base of the campanile (access from inside the basilica). Next door, a climb up the bell tower (March–Oct daily 9.30am–1pm & 2.30–6pm; €1.10) gives a new perspective on the basilica as well as views stretching from the mountains to the coast. In 1348 an earthquake destroyed much of Poppo’s work, but the building is still superb, the Gothic elements of the reconstruction – all points above the capitals – harmonizing perfectly with the Romanesque below. The ﬁne nave ceiling, like the steeple of the campanile, dates from the early sixteenth century. The ninth-century crypt under the chancel (€3) has very faded twelfth-century frescoes telling the story of St Hermagora, the legendary ﬁrst bishop of Aquileia, including a gory beheading scene and a moving descent from the cross. The Museo Archeologico

| Aquileia and Grado

A couple of minutes’ walk west from the basilica, on the other side of the main road, on Via Roma, is the Museo Archeologico (Mon 8.30am–2pm, Tues–Sun 8.30am–7.30pm; €4). Worked stone and everyday items litter the ﬁelds around Aquileia, but the ﬁner pieces have been collected here, ranging from precise surgical needles, delicate coloured glass and precious stones to great piles of jumbled masonry. The two courtyards, in particular, resemble a junkyard of Roman stone, with hundreds of funerary monuments, including urns piled in neat pyramids; concerts are occasionally held here in summer. It’s worth persevering up to the top ﬂoor of the museum where two extraordinary bronze heads are displayed side by side. One is a fantastical relief in the Hellenistic style, the other a naturalistic bust that may portray a dictator of the third century AD; the cruel expression certainly supports such speculation. On the ground ﬂoor rows of marble sculptures and busts mostly derive from the Roman tombs that once lined the roads into Aquileia. Eating and drinking

Of the area’s restaurants, Alla Basilica, Via Della Stazione 2, serves decent pizzas, while the hotel Aquila Nera (see p.359) has an excellent restaurant attached. Alternatively, the agriturismo La Pergola, in an old monastery on the main road at Località Beligna 4 (T 340.530.0162, W www.beligna.com), serves good local cookery and a full range of typical Friulani wines.

Grado Some 11km south of Aquileia, isolated among lagoons at the end of a causeway, is the ancient island-town of GRADO, through which Aquileia once traded with Syria, Cyprus, Arabia and Asia Minor. But Grado is no miniature Venice, despite its parallel history and situation, the tiny historic centre being all but lost among the concrete buildings of the large, modern resort. For relaxing on the beach, however, this is one of the best places in the northern Adriatic, the resort extending eastwards along the length of the sandy island. The water is safe and warm as a bath, and almost as shallow – indeed, the name of the town comes from the gentle angle of its shore. Information and accommodation

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Grado’s tourist office, at Viale Dante Alighieri 72 (April–Sept daily 8.30am–8pm; Oct–March Mon–Thurs 8.30am–1pm & 2–5pm, Fri 8am–1pm; T 0431.877.111, W www.turismofvg.it), has details of hotels, the majority of which are fairly expensive and sometimes insist on your taking full board. Three cheaper accommodation options are the Villa Marin, Via dei Provveditori 20 (T 0431.80.789, W www .villamarin.it; March–Nov; 3), overlooking the seafront wall between the two

beaches; Villa Romana Meublé, Viale Dante Alighieri 20 (T 0431.82.604, W www .gradovillaromana.com; May–Sept; 2 ), just east of the historic centre and one street back from the beach; and Al Sole Meublé, Viale del Sole 31 (T 0431.80.370, W www.hotelalsole.net; April–Oct; 2 ), which is near the beach, at its free, eastern end, a good ten-minute walk from the centre. The best local campsites are at Grado Pineta, around 3km east of the town and served by regular buses: Camping Punta Spin at Via Monfalcone 10 (T 0431.80.732, W www.puntaspin.it; April– Sept), has a wide range of facilities including three swimming pools, while Villaggio Turistico Europa at Via Monfalcone 12 (T 0431.80.877, W www.villaggioeuropa .com; mid-April to mid-Sept) features a sizeable aquatic park. The Town F RI UL I -V E NE Z I A GI UL I A

| Gorizia and around

The free beaches are at the eastern and western ends; if you want a locker, deckchair and shower facilities, you have to pay a few euros to one of the businesses on the Lungomare Adriatico. It’s worth seeking out the historic centre, however, for its three early-Christian buildings, grouped close together in the heart of a miniature network of old streets. The exteriors are of fairly rustic brick construction, though enlivened by fragments of carved Roman marble. The sixth-century basilica (daily 8.30am–6.15pm; free) was heavily restored between the 1930s and 1950s, but preserves a bizarre parade of ill-matched nave pillars topped by an assortment of Corinthian capitals; it’s thought that these were recycled from various Roman buildings in Aquileia. The pulpit is of similarly hybrid origins, perched on six slender Roman columns under a Venetian canopy that resembles an oriental tent. Venice’s presence is also felt in the fourteenth-century silver pala on the high altar. The mosaic pavement, while not as impressive as Aquileia’s, is beautiful, the pattern being formed by an endless knot. The adjacent octagonal baptistry (erratic opening hours) also dates back to the ﬁfth century and the arrival of the ﬁrst Christians in the lagoon. The church of Santa Maria delle Grazie (daily 8.30am–6.15pm; free), on its far side, is from the same period and has another mongrel collection of columns and capitals. From the outside it’s possible to see how the ground level has sunk over the centuries. Eating and drinking

A cluster of good restaurants can be found in the old streets around Santa Maria. The tiny Santa Lucia (T 0431.85639; closed Tues in low season), secreted in an alleyway at Campo Porta Nuova 1, serves good pizzas, while the Enoteca In Sentina, at 1/B, is good for wine and snacks. For Grado’s ﬁsh specialities, head just west to Trattoria de Toni, Piazza Duca d’Aosta 37 (T 0431.80104; closed Sun), or Trattoria Alla Borsa, Via Conte di Grado 1 (T 0431.80126), behind the marina.

Gorizia and around As with other towns in this region, the tranquillity of present-day GORIZIA – virtually midway along the Trieste–Udine rail line – belies the turbulence of its past. The castle that dominates the old centre was the power-base of the dukes of Gorizia, who ruled the area for four centuries. After their eclipse, Venice brieﬂy ruled the town at the start of the sixteenth century, before the Habsburgs took over. It was controlled from Vienna uninterruptedly until August 8, 1916, when the Italian army occupied it. The border settlement after World War II literally split houses in Gorizia down the middle. Italy kept the town proper, but lost its eastern perimeter to what was then Yugoslavia, where the new regime resolved to build its own Gorizia: Nova Gorica – New Gorizia – is the result.

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The town’s appearance, like that of Trieste, is distinctly Central European, stamped with the authority of Empress Maria Theresa. Numerous parks and gardens – thriving in the area’s mild climate – further enhance the ﬁn-de-siècle atmosphere. It’s a major shopping town for Slovenes, which explains the large number of electrical, clothes and food shops, and the cafés and restaurants.

The Town

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The main sight in town is the Borgo Castello, the quarter built round the castle by the Venetians, mostly in the sixteenth century. It’s a pleasant place to wander, but the view from the castle walls is more inspiring. The graceful rooms of the castle itself (Tues–Sun: April–Sept 9.30am–1pm & 3–7.30pm; Oct–March 9.30am–6pm; €3, more for exhibitions and special events) hold an unexceptional collection of musical instruments, weaponry, and paintings and models of the castle and town. One of the ﬁnest of Gorizia’s Neoclassical buildings is the Palazzo Attems (Tues–Sun 9am–7pm; €6) in Piazza De Amicis, northwest of the castle, built by Nicolò Pacassi, Maria Theresa’s favourite architect. Behind the palazzo, in what was once the Jewish quarter, the Synagogue, at Via Ascoli 19 (Tues & Thurs 5–7pm, second Sun of month only 10am–1pm; free), is also of Neoclassical design; the serene interior resembles those in Venice’s Ghetto.

The monastery at Castagnavizza

| Gorizia and around

Probably the strangest sight in Gorizia is the crypt in the Franciscan monastery at Castagnavizza – Kostanjevica, actually, because the monastery (Mon–Sat 9am–noon & 3–5pm, Sun 3–5pm; €1.50 donation expected) lies across the border in Slovenian Nova Gorica. This is the burial place of the last but one French king, Charles X. After being ousted by the bloodless revolution of July 1830 and sent into exile, the family eventually ended up in Gorizia in 1836, where the Habsburgs allowed them to stay, though Charles died of cholera just seventeen days after his arrival. The Bourbon Institute has asked for the return to France of the family’s remains, but both the monks and the Slovenian government have refused, asserting that the royal relics now form part of Slovenia’s history. The easiest way to get to the monastery is to cross the border on Via San Gabriele, in the northeast part of town (take your passport as there’s usually someone checking), cross the railway line and follow the signs uphill – it’s about a ten-minute walk from the border. Once there, ring the bell.

Practicalities

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Gorizia’s tourist office is at Corso Italia 9 (daily 9.30am–6.30pm; T 0481.535.764, W www.turismofvg.it). For accommodation, try the excellent and welcoming one-star Sandro, at Via S. Chiara 18 (T 0481.533.223; 2, breakfast extra), not far from the central Piazza della Vittoria. If that’s full, the comfortable but more expensive Alla Transalpina, at Via Caprin 30 (T 0481.280.747, W www.hotel-transalpina.com; 2 , breakfast extra), also has a moderately priced restaurant. It’s a good 2km northeast of the centre, right on the Slovene border, but bus #1 runs every ﬁfteen minutes from the train station through town, terminating opposite the hotel. Gorizia is better served by places to eat. The Osteria Panesale, Corso Verdi 11 (T 0481.81124; closed Mon), on the way into the old ghetto, serves good local food in simple surroundings, as does Alla Luna, Via Oberdan 13 (T 0481.530.374; closed Sun eve & Mon). But the best option in town is the excellent Ai Tre Soldi Goriziana (T 0481.531.956; closed Sun eve & Mon), up an alley off Corso Italia 38. It has garden seating in summer and serves up a wide range of beautifully cooked Friulian specialities, Gorizian goulash and local wines – try the menù degustazione for €25.

Udine and around

Some history

Arrival, information and accommodation

| Udine and around

Along with Cividale (see p.367), Udine was one of the frontier towns of imperial Rome but it was not until the thirteenth century that it started to become a regional centre. Patriarch Bertoldo di Andechs (1218–51) can be seen as the father of Udine – he established two markets (the old market in Via Mercatovecchio, and the new one in Piazza Matteotti, still a marketplace), moved the patriarchate from Cividale to the castle of Udine and set up a city council. In 1362 the dukes of Austria acquired the place by treaty, but not for long: Venice, now hungry for territory, captured Udine in 1420, after several assaults and sieges. The city was ruled by Venetian governors for almost four hundred years – until 1797, when the Venetian Republic surrendered to Napoleon. Even now, the old aristocracy of Udine speak a version of Venetian dialect, while the humbler Udinese, many of whom have migrated from the countryside, speak Friulano.

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UDINE, 71km northwest of Trieste, is the second city of Friuli-Venezia Giulia. With less than half the population of the regional capital, it presents a radically different complexion. Hemmed in by sombre suburbs – to which the weather conditions are often a match – the oval-shaped historic centre comprises essentially Italian charms. In many ways Udine harks back to the Venetian Republic, of which it was also the number-two city. Admittedly, its canals, called roggie, are little more than rivulets compared to those of Venice, but its gorgeous Piazza della Libertà could have been airlifted directly from La Serenissima. In addition to grand architecture, the churches and galleries here also boast scores of ﬁne works by Giambattista Tiepolo, whose airy brilliance evokes the city’s easygoing atmosphere on a ﬁne day, when the watery light from the canals dances on nearby walls. Two relaxed days provide enough time to get a good taste of what Udine has to offer.

Udine’s train and bus stations are close together in the south of the town, at Viale Europa Unità no. 40 and no. 31 respectively; Via Roma and its continuation Via Dante Alighieri lead from the train station into the centre. The tourist office, at Piazza I (Primo) Maggio 7 (Mon–Sat 8.30am–6.30pm, Sun 10am–4pm; T 0432.295.972, W www.turismofvg.it), sells the FVG Card (see p.349), which allows discounted entry to at least ten civic museums and exhibitions, as well as free use of local public transport. Internet access can be found at Internet Point Multimedia, Viale Europa Unità 1. Hotels are surprisingly limited, but some attractive new options have sprung up in recent years. Hotels Al Cappello Via Sarpi 5 T 0432.299.327, W www.osteriaalcappello.it. This traditional, welcoming osteria also offers a small locanda with six spacious, smartly designed rooms. The restaurant, too, is one of the most convivial and warmly attractive in town – and four-legged friends are also welcome. 4 Allegria Vicolo Chiuso 1 T 0432.201.116, W www.hotelallegria.it. On a quiet pedestrianized street, this is the city’s chicest design hotel. Everything is sleek and state of the art, including a cutting-edge car elevator to the underground

garage, all in a carefully restored medieval building. 5 Astoria Piazza XX Settembre 24 T0432.505.091, Wwww.hotelastoria.udine.it. A plushly modern choice in a done-up old building, with everything you’d expect from a four-star. Weekend offers can see rates fall by almost half. 5 Principe Viale Europa Unità 51 T0432.506.000, Wwww.principe-hotel.it. Ideally located for travellers by train or bus, this friendly, fresh and efﬁcient choice is set back in its own courtyard to ensure quiet. There’s free parking, too, and the choice of nonsmoking rooms. 3

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| Udine and around

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The place to start any exploration of Udine is at the foot of the hill, in the Piazza della Libertà, a square whose architectural ensemble is matched by few cities in Italy. The ﬁfteenth-century Palazzo del Comune is a clear homage to the Palazzo Ducale in Venice, and the clock tower facing the palazzo, built in 1527, similarly has a Venetian model – the lion on the facade and the bronze Moors who strike the hours on top of the tower are explicit references to the Torre dell’Orologio in Piazza San Marco. The statue at the north end of the square is a bad allegory called Peace, donated to the town by Emperor Franz I

to commemorate the Habsburg acquisition of Udine. All points of interest are about a ﬁfteen-minute stroll from the piazza. The castello

Via Mercatovecchio and Piazza Matteotti

| Udine and around

North from the Piazza della Libertà is Via Mercatovecchio, once the mercantile heart of the city and now the town’s busiest shopping street. The little chapel of Santa Maria, incorporated into the Palazzo del Monte di Pietà in Via Mercatovecchio, is a beauty: viewed through the glass booth from the street, the interior, with its cloudy Baroque frescoes by Giulio Quaglio (1694), has a pristine, subaqueous appearance. Due west lies the Piazza Matteotti, with galleries on three sides and the ﬁne Baroque facade of San Giacomo on the fourth. The square’s importance as the centre of public life in Udine is proved by the outside altar on the ﬁrst-ﬂoor balcony of San Giacomo; Mass was celebrated here on Saturdays so that selling and buying could go on uninterrupted in the market below. As well as being the town’s main market, this was the setting for tournaments, plays and carnivals, and still sees summer festivals today. The fountain in the middle of the square was designed in 1543 by Giovanni da Udine, a pupil of Raphael, who also had a hand in building the castle.

F RI UL I -V E NE Z I A GI UL I A

To walk up the slight hill to the castello, go through the Arco Bollani, designed by Palladio, and onwards up the graceful Venetian-Gothic gallery, the Loggia del Lippomano on the right. The sixteenth-century castello, decorated by local artists and once the seat of the Friulian parliament, now houses an excellent Galleria d’Arte Antica (Tues–Sun 10.30am–7pm; €5), containing works by Carpaccio, Bronzino and Tiepolo, as well as an indifferent Caravaggio and an interesting historical painting by Palma Il Giovanni showing St Mark putting the city under the patronage of St Hermagora, ﬁrst bishop of Aquileia; Piazza della Libertà is clearly visible on the right. The best-known painting in its collection is Tiepolo’s Consilium in Arena, showing a meeting of the Order of the Knights of Malta, said to be a faithful rendering, amazingly painted entirely on the basis of written accounts given to the artist.

The Duomo and Gallerie del Tiepolo

Off the south side of Piazza della Libertà is the Duomo (daily 7am–noon & 4–8pm; free), a Romanesque construction that was given a Baroque reﬁt in the eighteenth century. Altarpieces and frescoes by Giambattista Tiepolo are the main attraction – they decorate the ﬁrst two chapels on the right and the Chapel of the Sacrament, a little way beyond. A series of frescoes painted by Tiepolo in collaboration with his son, Giandomenico, can be seen in the tiny Oratorio della Purità opposite – ask the sacristan in the Duomo to show you. But Udine’s outstanding works of art are the Giambattista Tiepolo frescoes in the nearby Gallerie del Tiepolo in the beautifully furnished Palazzo Arcivescovile (Wed–Sun 10am–noon & 3.30–6.30pm; €5, including Museo Diocesano – see p.366). Painted in the late 1720s, these luminous and consummately theatrical scenes add up to a sort of Rococo epic of the Old Testament. Fall of the Rebel Angels is the ﬁrst work you see as you climb the staircase, while the ﬁnest room, the Gallery, is at the top, immediately on your right. Every surface is painted with either trompe-l’oeil architectural details or scenes from the story of Abraham, Isaac and Jacob. To the left is a sequence of rooms decorated in rich colours: watch for Tiepolo’s Judgement of Solomon in the Red Room, and Bambini’s wonderful Triumph of Wisdom in the serene Delﬁno library. Arranged around the Tiepolo

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galleries is the Museo Diocesano, with an assortment of sculpture and funerary monuments, as well as an exhibition of naive art – popular sculptures from Friuli’s churches spanning the Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque periods. Galleria d’Arte Moderna

The Galleria d’Arte Moderna (GAMUD), Piazzale Paolo Diacono 22 (Mon & Wed–Sun 10.30am–7pm; €5), aims to give an overview of Italian art in the twentieth century, with a few foreign greats thrown in for good measure. Works include those by Martini, Guttuso, Fontana, de Chirico, Dufy and de Kooning.

Eating, drinking and entertainment F RI UL I -V E NE Z I A GI UL I A

| Udine and around 366

Udine’s thriving café society means there are scores of cafés and bars to choose from. For a sweet treat to take away, head to De Luisa at Via Roma 46, a little pasticceria which has been turning out delicious regional treats, such as marbled gubana (nut cake), for three generations. The town can also boast dozens of restaurants, many of the most appealing clustered in the southwest corner of the Old Town. Most menus display a decidedly Central European bent. In summer there’s a busy programme of cultural events – theatre, outdoor cinema, music, dance – in and around the town: ask the tourist office for the fortnightly listings of events. Throughout the year the Ferroviario arts cinema at Via Cernaia 2 (T 0432.504.874) is always worth checking out for ﬁlms in their original language. Cafés and restaurants Al Cappello Via Sarpi 5 T 0432.299.327. The lively restaurant of the Al Cappello inn (see p.363) features local wines and rustic regional cookery served in a rousing atmosphere. Closed Mon. Alla Tavernetta Via Artico di Prampero 2 T 0432.501.066. This cosy, rather smart establishment serves hearty regional dishes, such as barley and bean soup and prosciutto of various kinds. Moderate prices. Closed Sun & Mon. Alle Volte Via Merceria 6 & Via Mercatovecchio 4 T 0432.502.800. Atmospheric restaurant set in a ﬁfteenth-century stone building with vaulted ceilings and pillars – one ﬂoor is an enoteca-osteria, for wine tasting and traditional snacks, the other the main restaurant. Classic dishes include swordﬁsh and spaghetti alle vongole, or try the ﬁsh-based tasting menu (€41 including wine). Closed Sun. Al Vecchio Stallo Via Viola 7 T 0432.21.296. A historic, Slow Food osteria offering traditional choices such as gnocchi, salted-cod dishes and frittata – housed, as the name reveals, in a converted old stables. Expect to pay about €30 per person with wine. Closed Wed. Caffè Contarena Via Cavour 1 T 0432.512.741. A visit to this elegant establishment is a classy way to start the day, with coffee and a light breakfast. Pane Vino e San Daniele Piazzetta Lionello 12 T 0432.513.112. To go with local wines, a variety

of moderately priced cold cuts and cheeses are on offer, including, of course, the excellent San Daniele ham, a Friulano speciality. Closed Sun. Sbarco dei Pirati Via Bartolini 12 T0432.21.330. Enjoying a beautiful setting built over a shimmering roggia, this inexpensive osteria provides a welcoming atmosphere and tempting regional dishes (as little as €15 per meal) – try the goulash followed by gubana soaked in plum brandy for dessert. Closed Sun. Trattoria alla Ghiacciaia Via Zanon 13/B T0432.502.471. Romantic little spot serving an eclectic range of local dishes, including frico, crispy fried cheese served with polenta; most dishes are €6–8. Seating available in an attractive and tranquil canalside garden. Closed Mon.

Bars Birriﬁcio Udinese Via Caccia 5. This microbrewery features regional beers – all organic – and substantial snacks to match, from pizza to sauerkraut to crêpes. Bistrot Piazza Matteotti 18. One of the hottest spots in this very happening square, at the centre of the city’s nightlife. Caffè Caucigh Via Gemona 36 W www.caucigh .com. A comfy Irish pub, claiming to be the city's oldest café, with live jazz on Fridays from 10pm. Piccolo Bar Via Rialto 2. This stylish option is an intimate wine bar just right for starting the evening off. Closed Sun.

Cividale del Friuli Lying only 17km east of Udine, CIVIDALE DEL FRIULI is a well-preserved medieval gem of a town. It’s much prized by the local Friulani and attracts visitors drawn to its beautiful setting and art treasures. The town has ancient roots, founded in 50 BC by Julius Caesar at the picturesque point where the Natisone River valley opens into the plain. In the sixth century AD it became the capital of the ﬁrst Lombard duchy. In the eighth century the Patriarch of Aquileia moved here, inaugurating Cividale’s most prosperous period. Cividale has been the main market town in the Natisone valley for two hundred years, and today you’ll hear Italian, Friulano and Slovene dialects spoken in the street. Arrival, information and accommodation

Just strolling around the town, within the oval ring bisected by Via Carlo Alberto and Corso Mazzini, is a pleasure, the pace of life provincially serene. The Old Town lies between the train and coach stations and the Natisone, and the visitor need never cross the river, though a walk over the Ponte del Diavolo (Devil’s Bridge; see p.368) is de rigueur. The tiny Tempietto Longobardo (Oct–March Mon–Sat 9.30am–12.30pm & 3–5pm, Sun 9.30am–12.30pm & 2.30–6pm; April–Sept Mon–Sat 9.30am–12.30pm & 3–6.30pm, Sun 9.30am–1pm & 3–7.30pm; €2.50), poised above the Natisone off Piazza San Biagio, is a uniquely ﬁne example of Lombard art. Constructed in the ninth century, largely from older fragments, much of the elaborate stuccowork inside the chapel was reduced to rubble in the terrible earthquake of 1222. The delicate interior preserves faded frescoes and carved stalls from its use as a convent chapel in the late fourteenth century, but the eye is drawn to the east wall where an exquisite stucco arch is ﬂanked by six female ﬁgures. Whether they represent saints, queens or nuns is uncertain, but the luminous, smiling statues are among the most splendid surviving works of art from the ninth century. Two other beautiful Lombard pieces are in the Museo Cristiano (April–Oct Mon–Sat 9.30am–noon & 3–6pm, Sun 3–7pm; Nov–March Mon–Sat 9.30am– noon & 3–6pm, Sun 3–6pm; free), housed in the precincts of the ﬁfteenth-century Duomo. The Altar of Ratchis was carved for Ratchis, Duke of Cividale and King of the Lombards at Pavia, who died as a Benedictine monk at Montecassino in 759; the reliefs of Christ in Triumph and the Adoration of the Magi are delicate and haunting. The other highlight is the Baptistry of Callisto, named after Callisto de Treviso, the ﬁrst Patriarch of Aquileia to move to Cividale. He lived here from 730 to 756 and initiated the building of the patriarchal palace, the cathedral and this octagonal baptistry, which used to stand beside the cathedral. It’s constructed from older Lombard fragments, the columns and capitals dating from the ﬁfth century.

| Udine and around

The Town

F RI UL I -V E NE Z I A GI UL I A

Cividale del Friuli is connected to Udine by train (free with the FVG Card – see box, p.349) and bus. The tourist office, ﬁve minutes’ walk northwest of Piazza Duomo at Piazza Diacono 9 (Mon, Fri, Sat & Sun 9.30am–noon & 3.30–6pm; T 0432.710.460, W www.cividale.net), has details on Mittelfest, an annual summer celebration of Central European culture with concerts, theatre and dance. Most visitors are day-trippers from Udine, but for an overnight stay head for the beautiful and comfortably renovated nineteenth-century neo-Gothic castle A Locanda al Castello, Via del Castello 12 (T 0432.733.242, W www.alcastello.net; 5 ), 1km southwest of town, on a hill above the road to Tarcento and Faedis. The restaurant too is recommended, especially on a sunny day when its terrace is the best place for a leisurely lunch.

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The Duomo itself (Mon 9am–2pm, Tues–Sun 8.30am–7.30pm) houses a twelfth-century masterpiece of silversmithery: the pala (altarpiece) named after Pellegrino II, the patriarch who commissioned and donated it to the town; it depicts the Virgin seated between the archangels Michael and Gabriel, who are ﬂanked by 25 saints and framed by more saints, prophets and the patron himself. Also in Piazza del Duomo is the Museo Archeologico (Mon 9am–2pm, Tues–Sun 8.30am–7.30pm; €2), which houses an excellent exhibition on the Lombards on the ﬁrst ﬂoor, incorporating local ﬁnds including some beautiful gold brooches. On the ground ﬂoor is a hotchpotch of late Roman and early Christian pieces, the highlight being a second-century mosaic of a wild-eyed Neptune. East of the piazza, on Via Monastero Maggiore, is a cellar-like cavern called the Ipogeo Celtico (to visit, contact the bar All’Ipogeo next door; donation requested). The hypogeum was probably used as a tomb for Celtic leaders between the ﬁfth and second centuries BC, but there is still some dispute as to whether it’s artiﬁcial or was merely adapted by its users. Either way, the spectral faces carved on the walls make it a most unsettling place. Just beyond the Ipogeo, and spanning the Natisone, the Ponte del Diavolo (Devil’s Bridge) is a reconstruction of the original ﬁfteenth-century structure that was destroyed during World War I. Of many legends concerning the bridge’s demonic name, a favourite involves the devil agreeing to aid the speedy construction of the bridge in return for the soul of the ﬁrst living thing to cross it – Cividale’s wily inhabitants sent a hapless dog.

| Travel details

Eating and drinking

Cividale del Friuli’s smartest café is the San Marco, Via Gemona 31, opposite the Duomo in the loggia of the sixteenth-century town hall. Good though pricey restaurants include Zorutti, Via Borgo di Ponte 7 (T 0432.731.100; closed Mon), situated just across the Natisone by the Ponte del Diavolo; and Alla Frasca, Stretta de Rubeis 8 (T 0432.731.270; closed Mon), one block west from Piazza del Duomo and boasting a vast array of truffle and mushroom dishes. A favourite with discerning locals is the excellent Trattorie Dominissini, at Stretta Stellini 18 (T 0432.733.763; closed Mon) – take a right just short of the Ponte del Diavolo.

Travel details Trains Trieste to: Gorizia (every 20min; 45min); Udine (every 20min; 1hr 10min–1hr 25min); Venice (every 30min; 2hr 5min–3hr 30min). Udine to: Cividale (hourly; 20min); Gorizia (every 20min; 25–50min); Venice (hourly; 1hr 50min–2hr 15min).

Buses

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Gorizia to: Cividale (4 daily; 1hr). Grado to: Gorizia (hourly; 1hr 20min). Trieste to: Duino (hourly; 30min–1hr); Grado (14 daily; 1hr–1hr 30min); Monfalcone (for Aquileia and Grado; hourly; 45min); Udine (hourly; 1hr 15min).

Udine to: Aquileia (16 daily; 40min); Cividale (hourly; 20min); Grado (12 daily; 1hr); Trieste (9 daily; 1hr).

Ferries Trieste to: Barcola (July to mid-Sept hourly; 30min); Duino (July–Sept 3 daily via Grignano and Sistiana; 1hr 45min); Grado (mid-June to Aug 3 daily; 1hr 30min–2hr); Múggia (mid-June to Oct every 1hr 30min; 30min); Croatia: Brijuni (June–Sept Tues–Sun; 4hr); Rovinj (June–Sept Tues–Sun; 3hr 10min); Slovenia: Piran (Wed, Fri & Sun 1 daily; 1hr 50min).

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CHAPTER 7

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| Highlights

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Highlights

Bologna’s restaurants A meal out in the gastronomic capital of Italy is a rite of passage for any true foodlover. See p.382 Modena’s Duomo One of the ﬁnest Romanesque buildings in Italy, with some magniﬁcent decoration inside and out. See p.387 Parma and its food Parma is inextricably linked to two great delicacies, Parma ham and Parmesan cheese, both of which can be sampled in the city or in the surrounding region. See p.390

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Rocca Viscontea Northern Emilia-Romagna’s most majestic castle. See p.395

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Brisighella festivals This medieval village is known for its trufﬂe, polenta and olive festivals in autumn. See p.397

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Ravenna’s mosaics Unrivalled both in beauty and preservation, these mosaics are unmissable. See p.402

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Rimini’s nightlife The hottest, loudest, wildest and fastestchanging in the country. See p.412

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Delicatessen, Bologna

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milia-Romagna doesn’t attract nearly the same volume of tourists as its neighbouring provinces of Lombardy, the Veneto and Tuscany, which is strange because it offers just as ﬁne a distillation of the region’s charms: glorious countryside, plenty of historic architecture and local cuisine renowned across the rest of Italy. It’s also pretty easy to get around with most of its main sites located along the Via Emilia (or more prosaically the A1 and A14 roads), the dead-straight road ﬁrst laid down by the Romans in 187 BC that splits the province in two along its east–west axis, dividing the Apennine mountains in the south from the ﬂat ﬁelds of the northern plain, the Pianura Padana. Dotted along this road are some proud, historic towns, ﬁlled with restored medieval and Renaissance palazzi, the legacy of a handful of feuding families – the Este in Ferrara and Modena, the Farnese in Parma, and lesser dynasties in Ravenna and Rimini – who used to control the area before the papacy took charge. The largest urban centre, and the main tourist draw, is Bologna, the site of Europe’s ﬁrst university – and today best known as the “gastronomic capital of Italy”. It’s generally regarded as one of the country’s most beautiful cities with a mazy network of porticoed, medieval streets housing a collection of restaurants that easily live up to the town’s reputation. To the west are the wealthy, provincial towns of Modena and Parma, each just an hour or so away by train, and each with their own charming historic centres and gastronomic delights, while to the east lies Ravenna, once the capital of the Western Roman Empire and today home to the ﬁnest set of Byzantine mosaics in the world. The Adriatic coast south is an overdeveloped ribbon of settlements, although Rimini, at its southern end, provides a spark of interest, with its wild seaside nightlife and surprisingly historic town centre. Away from the central artery, Emilia-Romagna’s countryside comes in two topographical varieties: ﬂat or hilly. To the north lies one of the largest areas of ﬂat land in Italy, a primarily agricultural region where much of the produce for the region’s famed kitchens is grown. It also boasts a good deal of wildlife, particularly around the Po Delta on the Adriatic (a soggy expanse of marshland and lagoons that has become a prime destination for birdwatchers) and in Ferrara, just thirty minutes north of Bologna, one of the most important Renaissance centres in Italy. To the south are the Apennines, an area best explored using your own transport, sampling local cuisine and joining in the festivals; although it’s still possible to get a taste of this beautiful region, far removed from the functional plain to the north, by bus. If you’re a keen hiker, you might be tempted by the Grand Escursione Apenninica, a 25-day-long trek following the backbone of the range from refuge to refuge, which can be accessed from the foothills south of Reggio Emilia.

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| Bologna and around

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Emilia’s capital, BOLOGNA, is a thriving city, whose light-engineering and high-tech industries have brought conspicuous wealth to the old brick palaces and porticoed streets. It’s well known for its food – undeniably the richest in the country – and for its politics. “Red Bologna” became the Italian Left’s stronghold and spiritual home, having evolved out of the resistance movement to German occupation during World War II. Consequently, Bologna’s train station was singled out by Fascist groups in 1980 for a bomb attack in Italy’s worst postwar terrorist atrocity – a glassed-in jagged gash in the station wall commemorates the tragedy in which 84 people died. In subsequent decades, the city’s political leanings have been less predictable, although its “leftist” reputation continues to stick. Bologna is certainly one of the best-looking cities in the country. The centre is startlingly medieval in plan, a jumble of red brick, tiled roofs and balconies

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| Bologna and around

Vergato

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radiating out from the great central square of Piazza Maggiore. There are enough monuments and curiosities for several days’ leisured exploration, including plenty of small, quirky museums, some tremendously grand Gothic and Renaissance architecture and, most conspicuously, the Due Torri, the city’s own “leaning towers”. Thanks to the university, whose students make up one-ﬁfth of the city’s population of 500,000, there’s always something happening – be it theatre, music, the city’s lively summer festival, or just the café and bar scene, which is among northern Italy’s most convivial.

Arrival, information and city transport Bologna’s train station, which now boasts high-speed (freccie) services to most major Italian cities, is on the northern edge of the city centre at Piazza delle Medaglie d’Oro; all long-distance buses terminate at the bus station, next door on Piazza XX Settembre. Bus #25 outside the train station takes you to Piazza del Nettuno.

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Emilia-Romagna has a just reputation for producing the richest, most lavish food in Italy, with its famous specialities of parmesan cheese (parmigiano-reggiano), egg pasta, Parma ham (generically known as prosciutto di Parma) and balsamic vinegar. Despite its current foodie connotations, balsamic vinegar started off as a cottage industry, with many Emilian families distilling and then redistilling local wine to form a dark liquor that is then matured in wooden barrels for at least twelve years. Bologna is regarded as the gastronomic capital of Italy, and Emilia is the only true home of pasta in the North: often lovingly handmade, the dough is formed into lasagne, tortellini stuffed with ricotta cheese and spinach, pumpkin or pork, and other fresh pastas served with ragù (meat sauce), cream sauces or simply with butter and parmesan – alla parmigiana usually denotes something cooked with parmesan. Modena and Parma specialize in bollito misto – boiled meats, such as ﬂank of beef, trotters, tongue and spicy sausage – while another Modenese dish is zampone – stuffed pig’s trotter. The region is second only to Sicily for the amount of ﬁsh caught in its waters. Regional wines are, like the landscapes and people, quite distinct. Emilia is synonymous with Lambrusco, but don’t despair: buy only DOC Lambrusco and be amazed by the dark, often blackberry-coloured wine that foams into the glass and cuts through the fattiness of the typically meaty Emilian meal. There are four DOC zones for Lambrusco and you get a glimpse of three of them, all around Modena, from the Via Emilia, each supporting neat rows of high-trellised vines. The fourth zone extends across the plains and foothills of the Apennines, in the province of Reggio Emilia. Other wines to try, both whites, are Trebbianino Val Trebbia and Monterosso Val D’Arda, while the lively Malvasia (also white) from the Colli di Parma goes well with the celebrated local ham. Heading east towards the Adriatic coast, you come to the Romagna, a ﬂatter, drier province where the wines have less exuberance but more body and are dominated by Albana and Sangiovese. The sweeter versions of Albana are often more successful at bringing out the peachy, toasted-almond ﬂavours of this white. The robust red of Sangiovese, from the hills around Ímola and Rimini, comes in various “weights” – all around the heavy mark. Much lighter is Cagnina di Romagna, which is best drunk young (within six months of harvest).

Otherwise it’s a ten-minute walk. Bologna’s Marconi airport (T 051.647.9615, W www.bologna-airport.it) lies northwest of town, linked to the centre and the train station by the Aerobus (€5, buy tickets on board), which runs approximately every twenty minutes and takes around 25 minutes in light traffic. Taxis to the centre cost around €20. Ryanair ﬂights land at Forlí (T 0543.474.921, W www .forliairport.com), 60km southeast. Special shuttle buses (E-BUS; T 199.115.577) leave for Bologna approximately thirty minutes after the ﬂight lands; you can buy tickets on board (€10; 1hr 25min). Otherwise a taxi will set you back around €50. If driving, note that the city centre is closed to private traffic between 7am and 8pm Sunday to Friday. There is parking on Piazza XX Settembre and Piazza VIII Agosta, adjacent to the bus station. Bologna’s main tourist office, in the Palazzo del Podestà at Piazza Maggiore 1 (daily 9.30am–7.30pm; T 051.239.660 or 051.251.947, W www.bolognaturismo .info), has the usual array of information, such as the excellent bilingual publication L’ospite di/A Guest of Bologna, plus details of gourmet tours and cookery courses. Guided sightseeing tours of the city in English leave from here every Saturday at 2pm. Other offices can be found at Marconi airport (daily 8am–8pm) and the train station (Mon–Sat 9am–7pm, Sun 9am–3pm).

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The best way to enjoy Bologna is on foot, strolling beneath some of the city’s 25 miles of porticoes amid Italy’s most courteous drivers. Buses (W www.atc .bo.it) are fast and frequent. Tickets cost €1 each from tabacchi, newsstands, ticket machines and ATCittá info centres – located at the train and bus stations as well as various other locations – and are valid on as many buses as you like within one hour, or within 90 minutes during the reduced service period in August. If you plan to make frequent use of them it might be worth buying a Citypass for €6.50, valid for eight journeys. The ATCittá info points also sell tickets for the open-top, hop-on hop-off Giro Tp TramBus tour of the city (€10; T 800.281.281 tollfree, W www.trambusopen.com). There are ten departures daily between 10am and 4pm from Viale Pietramellara in front of the train station.

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Bologna’s accommodation mostly caters for business travellers with only a few inexpensive hotels. During the trade-fair peak (March to early May & Sept–Dec) prices can more than double. Many hotels prefer to take block bookings during these times and making an individual reservation can be tricky. In July and August prices are much lower. The tourist offices have hotel lists, and the Centro Servizi Per I Turisti (Tourist Service Centre), right next to the tourist office desk at Piazza Maggiore 6 (Mon–Sat 10am–2pm & 3–7pm, Sun 10am–2pm; T 051.648.7607 or 800.856.065 toll free, W www.cst.bo.it), can book rooms for you at no charge, or you can do it yourself directly through their website. Hotels Accademia Via Belle Arti 6 T 051.232.318, Wwww.hotelaccademia.com. In the heart of the university quarter, this large three-star hotel has modestly sized and furnished doubles (a mixture of private and shared bathrooms), some with balconies. Periodic art shows decorate the public areas. All rooms have a/c. 4 Al Cappello Rosso Via de’ Fusari 9 T051.261.891, Wwww.alcappellorosso.it. It may be one of the city’s oldest hotels, with six centuries of service behind it, but the Cappello Rosso has certainly done its best to move with the times, now offering dedicated rooms for ladies, a pet-care service and a Gay-Pride package. Bedrooms are stylishly modern, large and comfortable, and there’s a library-cum-book-swapping service. Enjoys an atmospheric location just off Piazza Maggiore. 6

Centrale Via della Zecca 2 T051.225.114, Wwww .albergocentralebologna.it. Recently refurbished two-star in the heart of the city. All of the 25 spacious rooms come with bathrooms and a/c, and there are great views from the top ﬂoor. 3 Corona d’Oro Via Oberdan 12 T 051.745.7611, Wwww.bolognarthotels.it. One of the city's “art” hotels offers four-star opulence in a plush palazzo close to the Metropolitana and graced with a lovely wooden portico, the city’s oldest. 6 Garisenda Galleria del Leone 1 / Via Rizzoli 9 T051.224.369, Wwww.albergogarisenda .com. The seven rooms here are basic – only three have private bathrooms – but the location is great and the welcome very genuine; above the Via Rizzoli shops right opposite the two towers. Surprisingly quiet for its commercial location. Includes breakfast and wi-ﬁ. 3

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Forty minutes by car north of Bologna, near Crevalcore, stands the medieval castle of Galeazza (Via Provanone 8585 T051.985.170, Wwww.galeazza.com; 1 ), now a reading and cultural retreat – the brainchild of an American, Clark Lawrence. The four frescoed rooms can accommodate up to ten guests, everyone pitches in with cleaning and cooking duties (and ideally contributes a book or two to the communal library), and there’s an ongoing cultural programme of art exhibitions, classical and jazz concerts and readings. With a stimulating mix of Italians and foreigners, it makes an excellent base from which to explore Ferrara, Bologna and Modena, which are all about 40 minutes away.

up behind the houses from the rooms overlooking the square, and there’s a fantastic rooftop breakfast terrace. 6 San Vitale Via SanVitale 94 T051.225.966, W www.albergosanvitale.com. A delightful little ﬁnd in the heart of the city with a rare treat – its own lush garden. The rooms are basic but spotless and all have private bath. The friendly owners provide a very warm welcome. No breakfast, but an excellent coffee machine in the lobby, as well as inviting snack-bars nearby. 2

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The City Bologna’s city centre is compact, with most sights within easy reach of the main ring road. Lined with shops and bars, Via dell’Indipendenza runs from the train station to the centre, ﬁnishing up at the linked central squares of Piazza Maggiore and Piazza del Nettuno. West of here is the commercial district, bordered by the office blocks of Via G. Marconi, while to the east lies the university quarter.

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San Sisto-Due Torri Via Viadagola 5 and 14 T051.501.810, Wwww.ostellodibologna.com. Ofﬁcial HI hostel 6km outside the centre of town. To get there (Mon–Sat) take bus #93 in the day, and from 8pm onwards bus #21b, both from Via Marconi. On Sunday service is less frequent. Check-in is from 2–11pm and there’s no curfew. Beds are €17 per head in a dorm, and there are also double rooms (1 ). Full range of services includes breakfast, internet and wi-ﬁ. It’s a busy place so book in advance.

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Orologio Via IV Novembre 10 T051.745.7411, Wwww.bolognarthotels.it. On a side street just south of Piazza Maggiore – look for the clock sign – this elegant, superior three-star is an "art" hotel, with an air of understated luxury and well-equipped rooms. 5 Panorama Via Livraghi 1 T 051.221.802, Wwww .hotelpanoramabologna.it. Just off Via Ugo Bassi (no sign), offering a range of accommodation, from three- and four-bed rooms to ordinary doubles and singles – only one room with private bath, the rest share clean and pleasant facilities down the corridor. Helpful owners. 2 Rossini Via Bibiena 11 T 051.237.716, W www.albergorossini.com. In the student quarter, just off Piazza Verdi, a small, friendly two-star hotel with comfortable though basic rooms, all but three with bath; six have a/c. Breakfast available at extra charge. 2 San Donato Via Zamboni 16 T 051.235.395, W www.hotelsandonato.it. This Best Western hotel is a very elegant four-star offering a good standard of chain-hotel comfort in a great location. You can just see the two towers poking

Piazza Maggiore, Piazza del Nettuno and around

At the centre of Piazza del Nettuno, the Neptune Fountain, one of the most celebrated symbols of the city, was created by Giambologna in the late sixteenth century. Its extravagant – and when ﬁrst unveiled highly controversial – composition sees a trident-wielding Neptune sat atop a pile of putti and mermaids – who are themselves arranged rather indelicately astride dolphins shooting water from their breasts. Beside the fountain is a wall lined with photographs of partisans who died in World War II, near another memorial to those killed in the 1980 train station bombing. Across the square, the Palazzo Re Enzo takes its name from its time as the prison-home of Enzo, king of Sicily, conﬁned here by papal supporters for two decades after the Battle of Fossalta in 1249. Next door to the Palazzo Re Enzo, Palazzo Podestà ﬁlls the northern side of Piazza Maggiore, built in the ﬁfteenth century at the behest of the Bentivoglio clan. Both palazzi open occasionally for special exhibitions. On the piazza’s western edge, the Palazzo Comunale gives some indication of the political shifts in power, its facade adorned by a huge statue of Pope Gregory XIII as an affirmation of papal authority. Inside are two art collections. The ﬁrst, the Museo Morandi (Tues–Fri 9am–3pm, Sat & Sun 10am–6.30pm; W www.museomorandi.it; free), is devoted to the life and works of one of Italy’s most important twentieth-century painters. Two hundred works and a faithful reconstruction of Giorgio Morandi’s studio offer a fascinating glimpse

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into the artist best known for his Futurist works. The other, the Collezioni Comunali d’Arte (Tues–Fri 9am–3pm, Sat & Sun 10am–6.30pm; free), forms one third of the city’s Museo Civici d’Arte Antica, along with the Museo Davia Bargellini and the Museo Civico Medievale. Its galleries of ornate furniture and paintings include works by Vitale da Bologna, Simone dei Crociﬁssi and others of the Bolognese School. On the southern side of Piazza Maggiore stands the church of San Petronio (daily: winter 7.30am–12.30pm & 3pm–6pm; summer 7.45am–12.30pm & 3.30–6pm), one of the ﬁnest Gothic brick buildings in Italy. This enormous structure was originally intended to have been larger than St Peter’s in Rome, but money and land for the side aisle were diverted by the pope’s man in Bologna towards a new university and plans had to be modiﬁed. The end result looks a little strange at ﬁrst glance, with the beginnings of the planned aisles on both sides of the building clearly visible. There are models of what the church was supposed to look like in the museum (Mon– Sat 9.30am–12.30pm & 3.00–5.30pm, Sun pm only; free). Note that you are not permitted to take large backpacks into the church, and there are no storage facilities provided. In the opposite direction, across Via dell’Archiginnasio from San Petronio, the Palazzo dei Banchi is more of a set piece than a palazzo, basically a facade designed by the Renaissance architect Vignola to unify a set of medieval houses that didn’t really ﬁt with the rest of the square. In the Palazzo Galvani, the Museo Civico Archeologico (Tues–Fri 9am–3pm, Sat & Sun 10am–6.30pm; W www .comune.bologna.it/museoarcheologico; free) is rather stuffy but has good displays of Egyptian and Roman antiquities, and an Etruscan section that is one of the best outside Lazio, with ﬁnds drawn from the settlement of Felsina, which predated Bologna. English audioguides are available for €4. Just north of the museum, Via Clavature – together with nearby Via Pescerie Vecchie and Via Draperie – is home to a grouping of market stalls and shops that makes for one of the city’s most enticing sights. In autumn, especially, the market is a visual and aural feast, with fat porcini mushrooms, truffles in baskets of rice, thick rolls of mortadella, hanging pheasants, ducks and hares, and skinned frogs by the kilo. The church of Santa Maria della Vita (Mon–Sat 7.30am–6pm, Sun 4.30pm–7pm; free), in Via Clavature, is worth a look for its outstanding pietà by Nicola dell’Arca – seven life-sized terracotta ﬁgures that are among the most dramatic examples of Renaissance sculpture you’ll see. The Archiginnasio and around

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Down the street in the other direction, Bologna’s old university – the Archiginnasio – was founded at more or less the same time as Piazza Maggiore was laid out, predating the rest of Europe’s universities, although it didn’t get a special building until 1565, when Antonio Morandi was commissioned to construct the present building on the site until then reserved for San Petronio. Centralizing the university on one site was a way of maintaining control over students at a time when the Church felt particularly threatened by the Reformation. You can wander freely into the main courtyard, covered with the coats of arms of its more famous graduates, and in the mornings it’s also possible to visit the main upstairs library, and, most interestingly, the Teatro Anatomico (Mon–Sat 9am–1.30pm; T 051.276.811; free), the original medical faculty dissection theatre. Tiers of seats surround an extraordinary professor’s chair, covered with a canopy supported by ﬁgures known as gli spellati – “the skinned ones”. Not many dissections went on, owing to prohibitions of the Church, but when they did (usually around carnival time), artists and the general public used to turn up as much for the social occasion as for studying the body.

Bologna’s porticoes No other city has anything like the number of porticoes or covered walkways found in Bologna. In the city centre there are barely any stretches of pavement not topped by an ornate, arched covering. They make a vivid ﬁrst impression, especially at night, while by day they provide an unofﬁcial catwalk for Bologna’s well-turned-out residents, not to mention welcome shelter from the spring rain. The ﬁrst porticoes were built out of wood, some thirteenth-century examples of which still stand. They proved so popular that by the fourteenth century construction of stone or brick porticoes, high enough to accommodate people on horseback, had become compulsory on all new streets. Today, some 38km still stand, including the longest portico in the world, the 3.5-kilometre stretch leading from the city up to the Santuario di Madonna di San Luca (see p.385).

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Outside the old university, Piazza Galvani remembers the physicist Luigi Galvani with a statue. One of Bologna’s more successful scientists, Galvani discovered electrical currents in animals, thereby lending his name to the English language in the word “galvanize”. A few minutes south, down Via Garibaldi, is Piazza San Domenico, with its strange canopied tombs holding the bones of medieval law scholars. Bologna was instrumental in sorting out wrangles between the pope and the Holy Roman Emperor in the tenth and eleventh centuries, earning itself the title of La Dotta (“The Learned”) and forming the basis for the university’s prominent law faculties. The church of San Domenico was built in 1221 to house the relics of St Dominic, which were placed in the so-called Arca di San Domenico: a ﬁfteenthcentury work that was ostensibly the creation of Nicola Pisano – though in reality many artists contributed to it. One of Pisano’s pupils was Michelangelo and it was his hands that sculpted the angel resting on St Dominic’s tomb. While you’re in the church, try also to see the Museo di San Domenico (Mon–Fri 9.30am–12.30pm & 3.30–6.30pm, Sat & Sun 3–5.30pm; free), displaying a very ﬁne polychrome terracotta bust of St Dominic by Nicolò dell’Arca along with paintings, reliquaries and vestments, and, beyond, the intricately inlaid mid-sixteenth-century choir stalls. The Due Torri and around

Bordered by Via Oberdan to the west and Strada Maggiore to the south, the eastern section of Bologna’s centro storico preserves many of the older university departments, housed for the most part in large seventeenth- and eighteenth-century palaces. Bookshops, cafés and vegetarian restaurants make this atmospheric slice of studentville perfect for idling away an afternoon. Via Rizzoli leads into the district from Piazza Maggiore, ending up at Piazza di Porta Ravegnana, where the Torre degli Asinelli (daily 9am–6pm; closes 5pm in winter; €3), and the perilously leaning Torre Garisenda next to it, are together known as the Due Torri, the only two remaining of hundreds of towers that were scattered across the city in the Middle Ages. The former makes a good place from which to get an overview of the city centre and beyond. Southeast of the Due Torri, Via Santo Stefano leads down to its medieval gateway, past a complex of four – but originally seven – churches, collectively known as Santo Stefano, set in a wide piazza. Three of the churches face onto the piazza, of which the striking polygonal church of San Sepolcro (daily 9am–noon & 3.30–6pm; free), reached through the church of Crociﬁsso, is about the most interesting. Inside, the bones of St Petronius, held in a tomb modelled on the Church of the Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem, provide a macabre focus typical of the relic-obsessed Middle Ages. A doorway leads from here through to Santi Vitale

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e Agricola, Bologna’s oldest church, built from discarded Roman fragments in the ﬁfth century. From here, follow Via Gerusalemme up to Strada Maggiore and the elegant fourteenth-century Santa Maria dei Servi, ﬁlled with frescoes by Vitale da Bologna – it’s a rare chance to see the work of the so-called “father” of Bolognese painting in situ. The beautiful portico holds a festive market during the Christmas season. Further north from here, Via Petroni leads through to Piazza Verdi, at the heart of the university district. On summer evenings it draws the crowds with its open-air bars and live music. Via Zamboni bisects Piazza Verdi, around and along which are many of the old palaces housing various parts of the university. The main building, the Palazzo Poggi at no. 33 is home to many of the university’s small specialist museums on subjects as diverse as naval maps and charts, human anatomy, physics and natural history (Tues–Sun 10am–1pm, but times subject to change so check on T 051.209.9398, W www.museopalazzopoggi.unibo.it; free). On the fourth ﬂoor, the fascinating 300-year-old Specola, or observatory, attracts the majority of visitors. Its small Museo di Astronomia (same hours, regular guided tours; free) is home to a number of eighteenth-century instruments and a frescoed map of the constellations – painted just seventy years after Galileo was imprisoned for his heretical statements about the cosmos. The Museo delle Cera Anatomiche (“Luigi Cattaneo”), a short distance north at Via Irnerio 48 (Mon–Thurs 9am–12.30pm & 2–4.30pm, Fri 9am–12.30pm; T 051.209.1533, W www.museocereanatomiche.it; free), might seem an odd place to visit, but it would be a shame to leave Bologna without seeing its highly idiosyncratic (and beautiful) waxworks. These were used until the nineteenth century for medical demonstrations, and are as startling as any art or sculpture in the city. The lurid anatomical cutaways, plus models of such things as conjoined twins and deformed limbs, are displayed in a series of glass cases. Close by, the collection of paintings in the Pinacoteca Nazionale at Via delle Belle Arti 56 (Tues–Sun 9am–7pm; W www.pinacotecabologna.it; €4) concentrates mainly on the heavier religious works of Bolognese artists. In particular there are early pieces, such as those by the fourteenth-century painter Vitale da Bologna, with later works by Francia and Tibaldi, as well as paintings from the city’s most productive artistic period, the early seventeenth century. Back towards the centre down Via Zamboni, in Piazza Rossini, is the church of San Giacomo Maggiore (daily 7am–noon & 3.30–6.30pm; free), a Romanesque structure begun in 1267 and enlarged over the centuries. The target here is the Bentivoglio Chapel, decorated with funds provided by one Annibale Bentivoglio to celebrate the family’s victory in a local feud in 1488. Lorenzo Costa painted frescoes called Apocalypse, Triumph of Death and Madonna Enthroned as well as some of the Bentivoglio family – a deceptively pious-looking lot, captured in what was a fairly innovative picture in its time for the careful characterizations of its patrons. Piazza Rossini is named after the nineteenth-century composer, who studied at the Conservatorio G.B. Martini on the square: the library here is among the most important music libraries in Europe. Close by, at Strada Maggiore 34, the beautifully frescoed sixteenth-century Palazzo Sanguinetti (W www.museomusica bologna.it; Tues–Fri 9.30am–4pm & Sat & Sun 10am–6pm; free entrance, audioguide in English €4) is home to a museum displaying an impressive trove of original manuscripts and paintings, including a portrait of Vivaldi and one of J.C. Bach by Gainsborough. On the other side of Via Zamboni at Via Valdonica 1/5 is the Museo Ebraico (Sun–Thurs & Sun 10am–6pm, Fri 10am–4pm; W www .museoebraicobo.it; €4, including an English-language audioguide). Situated in the old Jewish ghetto, it’s the best Jewish museum in the province and presents the history of the once-thriving Jewish community in Emilia-Romagna.

The Metropolitana, Museo Civico and the Basilica di San Francesco

Museo d’Arte Moderna di Bologna

| Bologna and around

Known, inevitably perhaps, by the acronym MAMBO, the Museo d’Arte Moderna di Bologna, Via Don Minzoni 14 (Tues–Sun 10am–6pm, Thurs till 11.30pm; W www.mambo-bologna.org; free for permanent collection, special exhibitions €6), is Bologna’s answer to Bilbao’s Guggenheim or New York’s MOMA. Opened in 2007, it now forms the centrepiece of a burgeoning new cultural complex occupying a former industrial estate in the northwest of the city, around a twentyminute bus ride from the centre (bus #35 from the railway station). Housed in a former bakery, the gallery is as stark, white and modernist looking as you’d expect and has been given the mission of providing a complete overview of Italian art in the twentieth century. It’s not quite there yet, although the permanent collection is a thought-provoking cross-section, drawn from the now-defunct Galleria d’Arte Moderna di Bologna. There are also regular temporary touring exhibitions. Part of a self-styled Manifattura delle Arte (Factory of Arts), the museum shares the complex with a music and dance centre, Centro di Musica e Spettacolo (W www .muspe.unibo.it/cimes), and an art-house cinema and ﬁlm archive, the Cineteca (W www.cinetecadibologna.it), which has been constructed on the site of a former slaughterhouse, as well as various new restaurants, bars and boutiques.

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There’s much less of interest to the north and west of Bologna’s central squares. A couple of blocks north of Piazza del Nettuno, the city’s cathedral, the Metropolitana di San Pietro (daily 8am–noon and 4–6.15pm; W www.bologna .chiesacattolica.it), was originally a tenth-century building but has been rebuilt many times and is these days more enjoyable for its stately atmosphere than any particular features. The Museo Civico Medievale (Tues–Fri 9am–3pm, Sat & Sun 10am–6.30pm; W www.comune.bologna.it/iperbole/MuseiCivici/; free), opposite, is of more interest, housed in the Renaissance Palazzo Fava at Via Manzoni 4 and decorated with frescoes by Carracci and members of the Bolognese School depicting the History of Europa, Jason’s Feats and scenes from the Aeneid. The museum collection itself includes bits of armour, ceramics, numerous tombs and busts of various popes and other dignitaries, and a Madonna and Saints by Jacopo della Quercia. West of Piazza del Nettuno, at the end of Via Ugo Bassi, the Basilica di San Francesco (daily 6.30am–noon & 3–7pm) is a huge, Gothic brick pile supported by ﬂying buttresses that was heavily restored in the 1920s and partly rebuilt after World War II. Inside there are a beautiful and very ornate altarpiece from 1392 and a pleasant cloister.

Gay and lesbian Bologna With its carefully preserved historic buildings and centuries of academic tradition you could be forgiven for thinking of Bologna as a rather stuffy, staid sort of a place. However, in certain regards it’s one of the most forward thinking cities in the country, not least in the area of gay and lesbian rights. The council here was one of the ﬁrst to allow gay couples to apply for municipal housing, and today the city boasts the largest openly homosexual population in Italy and is the venue for the annual Gay Pride celebrations. It’s also the national headquarters of the festival’s organizers, the Associazione Lesbica e Gay Italiana (Italian National Gay and Lesbian Association), or Arcigay/Il Cassero, Via Don Minzone 18 (T051.095.7213, Wwww.cassero.it), which also houses a library and other support services, on a drop-in basis until 7pm, as well as a popular disco, starting at 11pm Wed–Sat. Gay-friendly hotels, clubs and bars are listed in the free Cassero Magazine available from the organization and the tourist ofﬁce.

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Eating, drinking and entertainment

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Eating is especially important to the Bolognese: the city is known as La Grassa (“The Fat One”), the result of a rich culinary tradition. Its restaurants are said to be the best in Italy, and even the simplest restaurants and the many osterie often serve dishes of a very high standard. Handmade lasagne, tagliatelle and tortellini are excellent and regarded with great affection by Bologna’s inhabitants – the ﬁrst tortellini are said to have been made by a Bolognese innkeeper trying to re-create the beauty of Venus’s navel. Bologna’s bar and club culture thrives thanks to its huge student population, with most drinking places centred on and around Via Zamboni. The tourist office has a free pamphlet called 2night (W www.2night.it) for details of life in the city after dark. Bologna has tried to curb the July and August exodus by mounting a summer arts festival, called Be’, with evening concerts and cinema screenings in the courtyards of the civic buildings. June sees the annual Gay Pride celebrations (W www .bolognapride.it) while August plays host to Ferragosto, when everyone takes to the hills for all-night revelry in one of the parks outside town. In spring and autumn, classical concerts are staged under the aegis of the Bologna Festival, for which the Teatro Comunale on Piazza Verdi (W www.tcbo.it) is one of the main venues. For listings there’s the useful Bologna Spettacolo available from bookshops (W www .bolognaspettacolo.it). And for concerts and venues, you could try asking at the Rock Shop, Via della Grada 6, or wading through the ﬂyers at La Scuderia bar on Piazza Verdi. Cafés, pizzerias and ice cream Altero Via dell’Indipendenza 33. Selling pizza by the slice till 1am – margherita €1.20, mushroom €1.50, and for those with a sweet tooth, a slice of white pizza topped with Nutella for €1.20. Not quite the gastronomy for which Bologna is famed, but still. One of three city branches. Bottega del Caffè Via degli Oreﬁci 6. Downstairs is a shop selling all manner of coffee paraphernalia – beans, machines and more – and chocolate, while upstairs is a quiet café. 8am–7.30pm, closed Sun. Café Zamboni Via Zamboni 6/B. Popular student meeting-spot within sight of the two towers. Its covered outdoor seating area plays host to a vibrant and ever-changing social scene throughout the day. Inside, there’s a café, a gelateria and free wi-ﬁ access. Daily 7am–12.30am. Caffè Commercianti Strada Maggiore 23/C. Atmospheric bar that serves everything from coffee and ice cream to aperitifs. Try their cioccolata in tazza (hot chocolate topped with whipped cream), the perfect winter pick-me-up. 7am–8pm; closed Sun. Canton de Fiori Via dell’Indipendenza 1. Enjoy a terribly splendid coffee and cake under the porticoes at the “Corner of Flowers” just off Piazza del Nettuno, served to you with all due deference by bow-tied waiters. Daily 7.30am–8.30pm. Cremeria “La Funivia” Piazza Cavour 1. More perfectly executed gelato would be impossible to ﬁnd anywhere: incredibly silky

and richly ﬂavoured. You’ll ﬁnd the classics, such as bacio and zabaione, but also innovations like the toasted pine nut, dubbed “Leonardo”, and the white chocolate with crunchy puffed rice, by the name of “San Luca”. Tues–Sat 3pm–midnight, Sun 11am–11.30pm. Il Gelatauro Via San Vitale 98/B. A 10min walk east of the centre, this is a charming little place serving organic pastries, handmade chocolates, speciality wines and, top draw, fantastic ice cream, in all manner of ﬂavours, including fennel, pumpkin and blood orange. Daily 8.30am–10pm.

Restaurants All’Osteria Bottega Via Santa Caterina 51 T051.585.111. Currently one of the city's top choices for excellent dining, featuring a masterfully prepared menu that changes daily. The place is tiny so booking is an absolute must at all times, and the decor is spartan: for a full gourmet experience expect to pay €40–50 a person. Closed Sun & Mon. Bistrot Marco Fadiga Via Rialto 23/C T051.220.118. Intimate venue in Bologna’s theatrical quarter offering champagne and oysters pre-show and a high-end French-leaning menu afterwards. First courses are €10, while main courses start at €12 and include guinea fowl cooked in plums. Dinner only, closed Sun & Mon. Casa Monica Via San Rocco 16 T051.522.522. With its bright, Fellini-esque, high-ceilinged interior, this makes a fresh change

and join in the pub-like conviviality. Open daily 12.30pm–1.30am. Downstairs is a night-time jazz venue, usually on Tuesday. Scacco Matto Via Broccaindosso 63/B T051.263.404. A welcoming and elegant dining space adorned with framed tarot and playing cards, this venue offers some of the city’s most unusual ﬂavours, featuring gourmet variants on traditional Basilicata cuisine. Menu varies daily; superb wines. Expect €40–50 per person. Reservations a must. Closed Sun. Teresina Via Oberdan 4 T051.228.985. A good family-run restaurant serving regional dishes such as tortellini and tagliatelle for around €30 a head for a full meal. Worth booking. Open till 10.30pm; closed Sun. Trattoria Gianni Via Clavature 18 T051.229.434. Hidden down a narrow side-alley, this is one of the top options in Bologna: try the ultra-traditional bolliti, a variety of meats boiled in the Emilian way, or the fantastic home-made tortellini. Moderate prices. Reservations recommended. Closed Sun eve & Mon.

A.F. Tamburini Via Draperie 2. This fabulous, traditional delicatessen is a real gourmet’s delight, its ceiling thick with hanging hams and sausages, and its counters bulging with giant cheeses. It’s also got a great little café selling roasted meats and plates of ﬁlled pasta for around €3–5. After the deli closes at about 7pm, the attached wine bar goes till 1am. Cantina Bentivoglio Via Mascarella 4/B T051.265.416, Wwww.cantinabentivoglio .it. As much a ristorante as a bar, this place has live jazz from around 10pm in the cellars of a sixteenth-century palazzo, and the food (snacks to full meals) and wines are excellent. Open daily 8pm–2am, but closed Sun in summer. Enoteca des Arts Via San Felice 9. Tiny, dark and atmospheric bar serving cheap, local wine. Organizes regular tastings, Open daily 5pm–3am. Faccioli Via Altabella 15/B. It’s been described as a discreet library of a bar, with bottles, not books, lining the walls. Very pleasant place to taste wines and nibble snacks in the shadow of one of the city’s towers. Open from 6pm–1 or 2am; closed Sun. Le Stanze Via Borgo di San Pietro 1/A. Elegant place to unwind and sip wine and cocktails in the airy splendour of a converted Bentivoglio palazzo. The sixteenth-century frescoed ceilings, romantic candles and occasional art exhibition produce an evocative atmosphere lapped up by its chic clientele. Open till 4am daily. Zanarini Piazza Galvani 1. On an elegant square, this is where the chic Bolognese gather for their

| Bologna and around

Bars

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from the traditional, rather dark and cramped, Bolognese restaurant norm. The menu varies daily, always something creative and light, such as carrot, ginger and almond soup or courgette ﬂan with Gorgonzola cream: most dishes are in the €10 range, desserts about €5. Open daily for lunch and dinner. Closed Sun. Cloroﬁlla Strada Maggiore 64/C. This warmly inviting vegetarian and ﬁsh restaurant is just the place if the “fat of Bologna” has been weighing you down, offering over a dozen types of salad (contadino, greco, cous cous etc), all for €7–8, as well as tofu and seitan dishes, along with ﬁsh specialities for €10–14. Open 12–3pm & 7–11pm; closed Sun. Da Bertino Via Delle Lame 55 T051.522.230. For half a century, the place to come for no-nonsense Bolognese cooking, including bollito and arrosto (boiled and roast meats), accompanied by traditional contorni. Primi €6–9, secondi €6–16. Closed Sun, plus Mon evening. Fantoni Via del Pratello 11. Family-style Bolognese restaurant (think red-and-white-check tablecloths) that’s highly popular with locals – the daily menu is written in Italian only. Good value with lunchtime pasta dishes starting at €7 and an adventurous dinner menu with some (rather pricey) ﬁsh specialities. Closed Sun & Mon eve. Franco Rossi Via Goito 3 T051.238.818. Run by two brothers, this cosy gourmet spot offers light, inventive interpretations of heavy Romagnan staples, with full menus (including ﬁrst course, second course, side dish, dessert and choice wine) starting at €40. Closed Sun, except during fairs. Grassilli Via del Luzzo 3 T051.222.961. Emilian dishes adapted with ﬂair to suit modern tastes, accompanied by good service. Walls decorated with pictures of opera singers who dined here add to the glam ambience. An experience to remember, though you’ll need to book and it’s above averagely priced (primi from €11, secondi from €16). Closed Wed & Sun eve. Il Tarì Via Collegio di Spagna 13. A mid-priced trattoria and pizzeria featuring ﬁsh dishes, such as delicious spaghetti allo scoglio – with seafood and galletti mushrooms. Enormous servings of everything. Open till midnight. Closed Thurs. La Galleria Piazza XX Settembre. This large selfservice restaurant inside the bus station is a decent choice if you’re awaiting a connection, with a wide range of cheap quality food. Closed Sat & Sun. Osteria dell’Orsa Via Mentana 1/F T 051.231.576. Bustling, friendly and cheap, this is where both students and locals go for good food. Panini, salads and main dishes start at around €5–7. Share one of the big tables

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aperitivi and to soak up the last of the sun’s rays. Suitably sleek and expensive – expect to pay €8 for a small insalata di riso. Open 7am–9pm, closed Mon.

Clubs and live music

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Blue Inn Café Via Fornaciai 9 T051.418.0424, W www.blueinncafe.it. Large, live-music venue north of the centre, past the tangenziale. Blues dominates, but other styles get a look in, including swing on Tues, funk on Friday and r’n’b on Sat, when it’s open till 3am and dancing takes over from listening. Closed Mon. Cassero Via Don Minzoni 18 T 051.649.4416, W www.cassero.it. Housed on the “garden ﬂoor” in historic La Salara, one of the old city fortiﬁcations, this is the best of Bologna’s gay clubs, open every day starting anywhere from 7 to 11pm with bar and entertainment (Thurs night is lesbian night, starting at 9pm). On the main ﬂoor upstairs there's also an archive, counselling centre and meeting point (Mon–Fri 10am–1pm & 2–7pm). Chet Baker Via Polese 7/A T051.223.795, W www.chetbaker.it. Downstairs hosts one of the

city’s most popular jazz venues, attracting international names, while upstairs is a ﬁne restaurant, featuring an excellent buffet and scrumptious home-made pastas such as pappardelle ai funghi porcini. Full meals start at about €25. Open for lunch and dinner. Closed Sun and Mon. Clauricane Irish Pub Via Zamboni 18. One of the largest bars in town, very popular with students from the university up the road, with punters spilling out onto the busy street on hot evenings. Open daily till 3am. La Scuderia Piazza Verdi. Occupying a former stable block, this huge bar is aimed squarely at students. Cheap drinks, lots of ﬂyers for gigs and seating on the square where in the evening the sound of opera wafts across from the theatre opposite. Soda Pops Via Castel Tialto 6 T051.272.0279, W www.sodapops.it. This simpatico disco-bar caters for the young, studenty crowd who make this area nonstop party central most evenings. There's a different theme every night, from hip-hop to karaoke. Open daily 10pm till 3am.

Listings Books Huge selection of English books and magazines from Feltrinelli International, Via Zamboni 7 T 051.268.070. Car rental Avis, Via Marco Polo 91 T 051.634.1632; Europcar, Via Cesare Boldrini 12/F T 051.247.101; Hertz, Via Giovanni Amendola 16/A T 051.254.830; Maggiore, Via Cairoli 4 T 051.608.921. All the major companies also have desks at the airport. Cinema Several including Cinema Odeon, Via Mascarella 3 T 051.227.916; Arena Puccini, Via Serlio 25 T 333.879.3477; and Cineteca, Via Riva di Reno 72 T 051.219.4826 (Wwww .cinetecadibologna.it), an art-house cinema and ﬁlm archive in the city’s northwest near the new modern-art gallery. Hospital In an emergency, dial T118; or go to the Pronto Soccorso (24hr casualty) at the Ospedale San Orsola Generale, Via Massarenti 9 (T 051.636.3111); bus #14 from Via Rizzoli. Internet access There are numerous internet cafés all over Bologna. Two reasonably central options include Liong@te on Via Rizzoli 9 (T 051.407.0161; daily 10am–midnight) and Happynet, Via Oberdan 17/B (T 051.1998.4179; Mon–Fri 9.30am–9.30pm, Sat & Sun 11.30am– 9.30pm), both offering access for around €2 or less an hr. Rahman Internet Point at Via Castagnoli 2/D (T051.263.798; daily 9am–midnight) charges only €1 an hr.

Laundry Lava, Via Petroni 38, is the most central coin-op/drop-service laundry. Markets There are a couple of great food markets in the city centre: the large and lively Mercato delle Erbe, Via Ugo Bassi 2 (Mon–Sat 7am–1.15pm & 5–7.30pm, closed Thurs & Sat pm); and the Mercato di Mezzo on Via Pescherie Vecchie (Mon–Sat 7am–1pm & 4.15–7.30pm; closed Thurs am). For a huge range of new and secondhand clothes, handicrafts and textiles head to La Piazzola market on Piazza VIII Agosto on Fri and Sat (dawn to dusk). Pharmacy Farmacia Comunale in Piazza Maggiore is open 24hr T 051.239.690. Police Main questura is at Piazza Galileo 7 T051.640.1111. Post ofﬁce The main post ofﬁce is on Piazza Minghetti (Mon–Fri 8am–6.30pm, Sat 8am–12.30pm). Shops Some of Bologna’s most colourful sights are inside its many food stores, particularly those between Piazza Maggiore and the Due Torri, epitomized by Tamburini at Via Caprarie 1. The most convenient supermarket is the Co-op, at Via Montebello 2, behind the train station. Taxis COTABO T051.372.727; CAT T051.534.141. Travel agent CTS, Viale Filopanti 4/M T051.237.501; Mon–Fri 9.30am–1.30pm & 2.30–6.30pm, Sat 10am–12.30pm.

Italian food and wine Not only does Italian food and wine taste better on its home soil, but there’s a regional variety that makes travelling from place to place a fantastic gastronomic experience: every region thinks their way of cooking and local wines are the best, and will argue ﬁercely as to why. However, the one thing that every Italian will agree on is that the food and wine in Italy is the world’s ﬁnest. For more on each region’s cuisine and wine, see the boxes at the beginning of the Guide chapters. Buon appetito!

The north

Trufﬂe conoisseurs Rialto Market, Venice

Seafood, Venice

The northern regions are home to the country’s richest cuisine. Piemonte is famous for its meat dishes in rich, creamy sauces, as well as its white truffles, most celebrated in the area around Alba (which has a huge truffle festival every year in November). In Lombardy you’re as likely to eat risotto as pasta as a starter, and meat dishes may come with polenta – yellow cornmeal – instead of potatoes. In the neighbouring region, Veneto, the emphasis not surprisingly is on ﬁsh – manifest in fantastic risottos and black, squid-ink ﬂavoured pasta. Fish also features strongly in the food of Liguria, and its valleys produce the olive oil, pine nuts and basil that go to make the ubiquitous green pasta sauce, pesto. The big-name wines in Piemonte are the full-bodied Barolo and Barbaresco, along with the simpler, fruitier Dolcetto d’Alba and the dry white Gavi. Lombardy produces sparkling wines in Franciacorta, while the Veneto, responsible for around 25 percent of Italy’s output, is known for the red Valpolicella and the dry white Soave. There’s also Prosecco, the wonderful, light sparkling wine, and of course the country’s ﬁrewater, grappa, which hails from Bassano del Grappa.

Central Italy Emilia-Romagna is celebrated for being the Italian culinary heartland, known for its salami and cheeses, pork dishes and fresh ﬁlled pasta, as well as Parma ham and parmesan. In contrast, the cuisine of Tuscany and to some extent neighbouring Umbria is simple: the trademark dish is bistecca alla ﬁorentina, chargrilled steaks from the cattle of Tuscany’s Maremma plain.

Le Marche and Abruzzo are known for their game, and the cheese of choice throughought central Italy is sheep’s milk pecorino, often used instead of Parmesan. Rome has great pasta dishes, thick spaghetti mainly, with peasant sauces like carbonara and amatriciana. The city is also known for its Italian-Jewish specialities – deep-fried courgette ﬂowers, offal dishes and baccalà (deep-fried cod). As for wine, Emilia-Romagna is known for the much maligned red and white Lambrusco, and Le Marche for its light, white Verdicchio. The biggest producer is Tuscany, with great reds based on the indigenous Sangiovese grape; Chianti is world-renowned, but there’s also the wonderful, smooth Brunello di Montalcino, the lesser Rosso di Montalcino, and a host of more affordable reds from the Maremma. Umbria is known for the bone-dry Orvieto, and Lazio for the Castelli Romani whites, in particular Frascati, and the crisp Est! Est! Est!, of Monteﬁascone.

San Lorenzo Market, Florence Checchino dal 1887, Rome

Typical enoteca fare

Raise a glass With the renaissance of Italian wine has come a resurgence in the number of places to sample it, and Italy’s old wine shops, or enotecas, are thriving. Some of these places are spit-andsawdust wine shops that focus only on the wine; others – some of them with wine lists the size of dictionaries – serve classic Italian bar snacks to wash it down: usually a variety of locally sourced cheeses, salami and other cold meats. Our top ﬁve wine shops are below. Do Mori, Venice (p.306) Cantina Bentivoglio, Bologna (p.383) Fuori Porta, Florence (p.450) L’Angolo Divino, Rome (p.675) Mi Manda Piccone, Palermo (p.886)

The south

Pasta varieties Neapolitan pizza

Caffè and cannolo, Naples

Southern Italy’s staples include pasta, olive oil, fresh fruit and vegetables, particularly tomatoes, and ﬁsh and seafood – perhaps Italy’s healthiest diet. Naples’ signature dishes are pizza, which was invented here, and spaghetti al pomodoro, a simple delight of which the mayor of Naples said, “The angels in paradise eat nothing but pasta al pomodoro.” Campania’s other big attraction is cheese, most notably the mozzarella made from the milk of the local buffalo. Further south, the food reﬂects the inﬂuence of Arabs and Greeks. In Puglia lamb is the meat of choice, while Sicily almost has a cuisine of its own, with couscous and ultra-sweet pastries such as ricotta-ﬁlled cannoli. Sardinia, too, has a number of unique delicacies – pungent pecorino cheese, and its own wafer-thin ﬂat bread, carta di musica. Campania is known for whites like Fiano d’Avellino and Falanghina, and reds based on the ﬂavourful Aglianico grape. Puglia shines for its big-hearted reds like Salice Salentino and others based on the Primitivo and Negroamaro grapes. Sicily, too, has some great wines, including its ages-old fortiﬁed sweet white, Marsala.

Taking it slow Created to promote the pleasures of food and drink and encouraging the use of local, high-quality ingredients, the Slow Food movement originated in Bra, Piemonte in 1986. It has grown from an initial 62 members in the mid-1980s to more than 100,000 in 132 countries. Piemonte is still its main base, though, and every October Turin hosts the Salone del Gusto, the world’s largest food and wine fair. See W www .slowfood.com for more details.

Around Bologna In the heat of the summer the hills that start almost as soon as you leave Bologna’s gates take you high enough to catch some cooling breezes. The most obvious destination for a short trip is the eighteenth-century shrine of Santuario di Madonna di San Luca (7am–12.30pm and 2.30–5pm; until 6pm in summer), close on 4km southwest of the city centre but connected by way of the world’s longest portico, which meanders across the hillside in a series of 666 arches – a shelter for pilgrims on the trek to the top. Bus #20 from the station drops you at the start of the route, by Porta Saragozza southwest of the centre. Further south, the N325 passes through PONTECCHIO MARCONI, where the physicist Guglielmo Marconi lived in the late nineteenth century, and from where, in 1895, he sent the ﬁrst radio message ever – to his brother on the other side of the hill. Marconi now lies in a specially designed mausoleum in the village.

| Modena and around

Though only thirty minutes northwest by train, MODENA has a quite distinct identity from Bologna. It proclaims itself the “spiritual capital” of Emilia and has a number of claims to fame: great car names such as Ferrari, Lamborghini and Maserati are tied to the town (celebrated in Modena Terra di Motori in April/May, when the piazzas are ﬁlled with classic models); the late Pavarotti was a native of Modena, his name commemorated in the Teatro Comunale Luciano Pavarotti; the area’s balsamic vinegar has become a cult product in kitchens around the world, duly celebrated in nearby Carpi during the Balsamica festival in May (see box, p.388); and the cathedral is considered one of the ﬁnest Romanesque buildings in Italy. Of things to see, top of most people’s list are the rich collections of paintings and manuscripts built up by the Este family, who decamped here from Ferrara in 1598, after it was annexed by the Papal States, and ruled the town until the nineteenth century. But really the appeal of Modena is in wandering its labyrinthine old centre, ﬁnishing off the day with some good food.

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Modena and around

Arrival and information Modena’s centre, marked by the main Piazza Grande, is a ten-minute walk southwest from the train station on Piazza Dante Alighieri, down the wide Corso Vittorio Emanuele II. Buses #7 and #11 connect the train station with the main street of Via Emilia. The bus station for villages on the plain or in the Apennines is on Via Fabriani, off Viale Monte Kosica, ten minutes’ walk west from the train station and northeast from the centre of town. The tourist office is at Via Scudari 8 (Mon 3–6pm, Tues–Sat 9am–1pm & 3–6pm, Sun 9.30am–12.30pm; T 059.203.260, W turismo.comune.modena.it), though it can be tricky to ﬁnd because of a lack of clear signage. Here, you can pick up a Modena museum card for €6, entitling you to visit the city’s major museums; valid for two days. You can go online at Piazza Grande 34 (Mon–Sat 10am–8pm, closed Sun) for €1.50 per hour. There’s free parking inside the stadium at Parco Novi Sad and on Piazzale N. Bruni, though most hotels in the centre either have a garage or can give you free parking permits; driving in the centre’s one-way system during weekdays can be something of a nightmare.

Accommodation Modena makes a relaxing place to stay for a night or two. The few reasonably priced hotels in the centre ﬁll up quickly, so you’ll need to book ahead.

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Hotels Canalgrande Corso Canalgrande 6 T 059.217.160, Wwww.canalgrandehotel.it. Close to the main piazza and the place to go if you’re after full Modenese elegance complete with a garden terrace for chic breakfasting. 5 Cervetta 5 Via Cervetta 5 T059.238.447, W www.hotelcervetta5.com. A stylish, modern-looking choice – all white walls and clean lines. Very helpful staff and breakfast is above the norm, for an extra €10. Free wi-ﬁ access. 4 Daunia Via del Pozzo 158 T 059.371.182, Wwww.hoteldaunia.it. Friendly, recently refurbished option with large rooms. Easy to ﬁnd – it’s the

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big red building with green shutters opposite the hospital. 2 Libertà Via Blasia 10 T059.222.365, Wwww .hotelliberta.it. A quiet Best Western three-star with comfortable furnishings and free wi-ﬁ throughout. 5 Principe Corso Vittorio Emanuele 94 T059.218.670, Wwww.hotelprincipe.mo.it. Sleekly modern, with rooms just a little plusher than average in this category. Very welcoming and helpful staff; wi-ﬁ. 4 Sole Via Malatesta 45 T059.214.245. Rather basic one-star offering clean rooms with shared bathrooms. 1

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Hostels and camping Ostello San Filippo Neri Via Sant’Orsola 48/52 T 059.234.598, E [email protected]. Clean and pleasant hostel with two- and three-bed rooms: it’s a touch austere with no kitchen but with a TV room. Lockout 10am–2pm, no curfew. Dorm beds about €17.50. No breakfast. International Camping Modena Via Cave di Ramo 111 T 059.332.252, W www.international

camping.org. The nearest campsite is 5km from Modena on the way to Reggio Emilia: it's relatively wooded, with a bar and swimming pool, though the nearby motorway may make some sites noisy. To get there take bus #9 from the train station to Emilia Ovest 1006, from where it’s a 10min walk: head up Via Rosmini, turn left at the end and follow the road under the motorway approach road. €8 per adult, €12 per pitch.

The Town

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| Modena and around

Modena’s small, concentric medieval centre is bisected by Via Emilia, which runs past the edge of Piazza Grande, the nominal centre of town, its stone buildings and arcades forming the focus of much of its life. Dominating the square, the twelfthcentury Duomo (daily 7am–12.20pm & 3.30–7pm, W www.duomodimodena.it; free) is one of the ﬁnest products of the Romanesque period in Italy and is on the UNESCO World Heritage list. Its most striking feature is the west facade whose portal is supported by two ﬁerce-looking lions and fringed with marvellous reliefs – the work of one Wiligelmo, who also did the larger reliefs that run along the wall. Inside, under the choir is the plain stone coffin of St Geminianus, the patron saint of Modena – on his feast day, January 31, crowds come to visit his coffin, and a big market is held out in the main square. Beside the main entrance to the Duomo, the Museo Lapidario (Tues–Sun 9.30am–12.30pm & 3.30–7pm; €3) displays Roman-age marbles from the Duomo, while on the other side of the church looms the 86-metre-high Torre Ghirlandina, begun at the same time as the Duomo but not completed until two hundred years later. It is accessible by guided tour, providing a bird’s-eye view of the city (T 059.203.3101; €1). The other main focus for your wanderings is at the far, northwestern end of Via Emilia, where the Palazzo dei Musei houses the city museums and art galleries. Through an archway lined with Roman tombstones – nearby Piazza Matteotti was the site of a necropolis – a staircase leads off to the right up to the Biblioteca Estense, on the ﬁrst ﬂoor (Mon–Sat 9am–1pm; €3), where you can see letters sent by monarchs, popes and despots, with great wax seals, old maps, and the prize treasure, Borso d’Este’s Bible – the Bibbia di Borso d’Este – arguably the most decorated book in the world. The Museo Civico Archeologico Etnologia (Tues–Fri 9am–noon, Sat & Sun 10am–1pm & 3–6pm; €4), on the second ﬂoor, has a large collection of artefacts of archeological and artistic signiﬁcance, while on the top ﬂoor, the Galleria Estense (Tues–Sun 8.30am–7.30pm; €4) is perhaps the highlight of all the exhibits. Made up of the picture collection of the Este family, it contains paintings of the local schools, from the early Renaissance through to the works of the Carraccis, Guercino and Guido Reni.

Eating and drinking Modena is packed with places to eat. Try to sample some of the local pork-based specialities, like ciccioli – ﬂaky pork scratchings laid out in bars in the evening – or, in a restaurant, zampone (pig’s trotters, boned and ﬁlled with minced meat) or cotechino – the same thing, but stuffed inside a pig’s bladder. The covered market (Mon–Sat 6.30am–2pm, Sun 4pm–7pm), just south of Piazza Grande, has a fantastic array of fresh vegetables, fruit and meat, as well as balsamic vinegars (a forty-yearold vintage goes for around €20). You can even have blocks of parma ham and parmesan vacuum-packed to take home with you.

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If you want to see Modena’s famous balsamic vinegar being created, contact the Modenatur ofﬁce next door to the tourist ofﬁce at no. 8/10 Via Scudari (T059.220.022, Wwww.modenatur.it) for information on trips to aceteria (these are free but being private establishments visits depend on the owners’ schedules). They also have information on tours to Lambrusco wineries, parmesan dairies and some of the region’s renowned car manufacturers. The tourist ofﬁce can also advise you on “gourmet itineraries” in the wooded foothills of the Apennines surrounding the town. However, they’re not really necessary: restaurant signs by the side of the road invite you in to try cuisine “alla tua nonna” – “like grandma used to make” – usually involving mortadella (cold pork sausage, spotted with large lumps of fat and often ﬂavoured with nutmeg, coriander and myrtle berries), salami or crescente (a kind of pitta bread eaten with a mixture of oil, garlic, rosemary and parmesan). Higher in the mountains you can still ﬁnd ciacci – chestnut-ﬂour pancakes, ﬁlled with ricotta and sugar – and walnuts that go to make nocino liqueur. If you’re around towards the end of May, drop in on the Balsamica festival (T059.649.255, Wwww.carpidiem.it) in the beautiful town of Carpi (15km north of Modena). The celebration of the captivating brown liquid goes on for a week, with tastings, cooking courses and, of course, full meals.

| Modena and around

Aldina Via Albinelli 40 T 059.236.106. This traditional, family-run restaurant is an example of what the Slow Food movement is all about. The simple, delicious, home-made offerings of the day are recited, not written, and the pastas are the crowning glory. About €15 for a full meal; no credit cards; lunch only; closed Sun, and July & Aug. Al Grottino Via del Taglio 26 T059.223.985. Dependable upper-mid-priced (average meal €15) place that gets packed out with crowds coming for the gigante pizzas that more than live up to their name. Big on pastas and meat with the ﬁlete di manzo ai funghi porcini especially recommended. Closed Wed. Bar Schiavoni Via Albinelli 13 T059.243.073. Good, popular choice for a great coffee, a glass of wine and delectable and inventive panini for around €4, as well as various fresh, gourmet creations (open during market hours). Caffè Concerto Piazza Grande 26 T 059.222.232. Large, elegant place that operates a buffet service during the day (a plate of your choice, water and coffee for €15) and an à la carte restaurant at night (expect to pay around €35 a head). Its main role, however, is as Modena’s most celebrated meeting place and premier soiree spot. DJ Friday eve. Open daily.

Da Enzo Via Coltellini 17 T 059.225.177. Pleasant, slightly old-fashioned place serving Modenese specialities – though not especially cheap. Primi €6–8, secondi €10–14. Closed Sun eve & Mon. Danilo Via Coltellini 51 T059.225.498. The archetypal Modena eating experience – regional specialities served in a cosy backstreet dining room. Be adventurous and try the mixed meat platter – including stuffed pig’s trotters, cheek and tongue – for €16. Closed Sun. Ermes Via Ganaceto 89–91. No phone. A tiny, archetypal workers’ and students’ eatery, as authentic as it gets. The oral menu changes daily according to market ﬁnds. Around €17 for a full meal; worth the queue. Lunch only; closed Sun & Aug. No credit cards. Giusti Via Farini 75 T059.439.1552. At the bottom end of the price scale, this place has been a delicatessen since the seventeenth century and is a good source of picnic food. There’s a small café serving a good range of pasta dishes at lunchtimes. Closed Sun & Mon. Oreste Piazza Roma 31T 059.243.324. This superb Michelin-starred affair (expect to pay €50 per person) was one of Pavarotti’s favourites. Specialities include pumpkin ravioli. The decor is fusty but charming. Closed Sun eve & Wed.

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Around 23km south of Modena in MARANELLO is the Galleria Ferrari, at Via Dino Ferrari 43 (daily 9.30am–6pm; T 0536.949.713, W www.ferrari.com; €13), an exhibition centre dedicated to the racing dynasty. On display are the cups and trophies won by the Ferrari team over the years, an assortment of Ferrari

engines, along with vintage and contemporary examples of the cars themselves and a reconstruction of Enzo Ferrari’s study. There’s also a shop stocking all manner of bright red Ferrari merchandise – handbags, teddy bears, baseball caps, rocking horses etc.

Reggio Emilia

E M I L I A-ROM AGNA

| Reggio Emilia

About 25km northwest, up the Via Emilia from Modena, is REGGIO EMILIA, nicknamed “the red town” – in 1960 ﬁve protestors were killed by police during demonstrations designed to prevent Fascists joining the government. You wouldn’t credit such a revolutionary past wandering round this quiet, pleasant place now, more associated today with fashion house MaxMara. The town is built around two central squares, Piazza Prampolini and Piazza San Prospero, which come alive on market days (Tues & Fri). Stalls specialize in rather tacky clothes – the shops surrounding the market are far more alluring, crammed with a mighty range of local produce such as salami and parmigianoreggiano. Around the square, the buildings squeeze up so close to the church of San Prospero that they seem to have pushed it off-balance so that it now lurches to one side. Built in the sixteenth century, it’s guarded by six lions in rose-coloured Verona marble. Via Broletto leads through into Piazza Prampolini, skirting the side of the Duomo, which displays an awkward amalgamation of styles. Underneath the marble tacked on in the sixteenth century, it’s possible to see the church’s Romanesque facade, with incongruously Mannerist statues of Adam and Eve lounging over the medieval portal. At right angles to the Duomo is the sugar-pink Palazzo del Capitano del Popolo. The Italian tricolour of red, white and green was proclaimed here as the official national ﬂag of Italy when Napoleon’s Cispadane Republic was formed in 1797. North of here on the edge of Piazza della Vittoria are the Musei Civici (Tues–Fri 9am–noon, Sat, Sun & hols 10am–1pm & 4pm–7pm; free), containing an eighteenth-century private collection of archeological ﬁnds, fossils and paintings. In the corner of the square, the Galleria Parmeggiani (Tues–Fri 9am– noon, Sat, Sun & hols 10am–1pm & 4–7pm; free) houses an important collection of Spanish, Flemish and Italian art, including sculptures and bronzes, as well as costumes and textiles. Nearby stands the church of Madonna della Ghiara, built in the seventeenth century and decorated with Bolognese School frescoes of scenes from the Old Testament and a Cruciﬁxion by Guercino.

Practicalities Reggio is on the main rail-line between Bologna and Milan. The train station is on Piazza Marconi I, just east of the old centre; the bus station is on the west side of the public gardens on Via Raimondo Franchetti. The tourist office is on the southern side of Piazza Prampolini at Via Farini 1/A (Mon–Sat 8.30am–1pm & 2.30–6pm,

The Parmesan trail The foothills south of Reggio are cheese country. Signs along the roadside advertise the local parmigiano-reggiano while the village of Casina, 27km outside Reggio on the N63 to La Spezia, holds a popular Festa del Parmigiano in August, when the vats of cheese mixture are stirred with enormous wooden paddles. Buses for here leave Reggio from the new bus station on Piazzale Europa.

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Sun 9am–noon; T 0522.451.152, W www.municipio.re.it/IAT/iatre.nsf ), while the helpful Club Alpino Italiano office at Viale Mille 32 (T 0522.436.685, W www .caireggioemilia.it) has information on walking in the nearby hills (Wed, Thurs & Fri 6–7.30pm, Sat 5.30–7pm; closed most of Aug). For internet access, there’s the Roma Phone Center, Via Padre Angelo Secchi 38 (Mon–Sat 9am–7.30pm). If you’re planning to stay, hotel space is often limited so book ahead. The Ariosto on Via San Rocco 12 (T 0522.437.320, F 0522.452.514; 2 ) is a simple, central two-star with free internet access, while the four-star Posta, Piazza del Monte 2 (T 0522.432.944, W www.hotelposta.re.it; 5 ), is in the historic Palazzo del Capitano del Popolo and offers fabulous luxury. There’s a basic youth hostel, Ostello Basilica della Ghiara, 1km from the train station at Via Guasco 6 (T 0522.452.323, but prefer reservations by fax F 0522.454.795; no lock-out or curfew; €16 with breakfast). Food and drink options are relatively good. Caffè Arti E Mestieri, Via Emilia S. Pietro 14 (T 0522.432.202; closed Sun & Mon), is a rather smart restaurant with a menu of stylishly updated classic dishes from the region (expect to pay upwards of €40 for two courses with wine), while Canossa, at Via Roma 37 (T 0522.454.196; closed Wed), specializes in various ham antipasti and is consistently popular with locals (€30 for two courses). Sotto Broletto (T 0522.452.276; closed Thurs), down narrow Via Broletto at 1/N, by the Duomo, serves pumpkin pastas and scrumptious thin-crust pizzas, with full meals running about €20.

| Parma

Parma Generally reckoned to have one of the highest standards of living in Italy, PARMA, about 30km along the Via Emilia northwest of Reggio, is about as comfortable a town as you could wish for. The measured pace of its streets, the abundance of its restaurants and the general air of affluence may seem almost cloying, especially if you’ve arrived from the south. Not surprisingly, if you’re travelling on a tight budget, Parma presents a few difficulties. That said, it’s a friendly enough place, with plenty to see. A visit to the opera can be an experience – the audience are considered one of the toughest outside Milan’s La Scala and don’t pull any punches if they consider a singer to be performing badly – and the city’s works of art include the legacy of two great artists, Correggio and Parmigianino.

Arrival and information Parma’s train and bus stations are ﬁfteen minutes’ walk from the central Piazza Garibaldi, or a short ride on buses #2, #8, #9 and #13. The tourist office is at Via Melloni 1/A (Mon 1–3pm, Tues–Sat 9am–7pm, Sun 9am–1pm, closed Wed 1–3pm; T 0521.218.889, W turismo.comune.parma.it). Internet access is available at Polidoro Web (Mon–Fri 10am–1pm & 4–7pm, Sat 10am–1pm) at Via Maestri 4/B. A Banco Nazionale del Lavoro with an ATM is located at Piazza Garibaldi 17/A. Bikes for exploring the city can be rented from one of several agencies, including Parma City Bike at Viale Mentana 8/A (Mon–Sat 9.30am–8pm; T 0521.235.639), a few minutes’ walk north of the centre, for €2 per hour.

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If you’re planning a trip during spring or the run-up to Christmas, be sure to book in advance as this is also trade-fair season in Parma. You really need to plan ahead for the town’s cheaper hotels too, including the HI hostel.

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refurbished with wi-ﬁ and an impressive buffet breakfast. 6 Starhotel du Parc Viale Piacenza 12/C T 0521.292.929, W www.starhotels.it. Luxurious conversion of an old palace on the north side of the Parco Ducale, complete with ﬁtness room, a spa, wi-ﬁ, two restaurants, and the inevitable conference rooms for the business travellers who make up the majority of its clientele. 5

Hostel Ostello della Giovento Via San Leonardo 86 T 0521.191.7547, W www.ostelloparma.it. A 10min bus ride north of the centre (lines #2 & #13 from the train station), this hostel offers spick-and-span dorms, double and triple rooms with private bathrooms, plus a host of extra facilities including wi-ﬁ, internet and bike rental (€5 per day). Open 24hr. Beds starting at €19, breakfast €2.50 extra.

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The Town Parma’s main street, Via Mazzini, and its continuation, Strada della Repubblica, run east from the river, past Piazza Garibaldi which, together with the narrow streets and alleyways that wind to the south and west, form the fulcrum of Parma. The majority of the town’s museums and churches lie to the north of here, with a few points of interest, worthy of a stroll, lying across the river. Piazza Garibaldi and Piazza del Duomo

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| Parma

The mustard-coloured Palazzo del Governatore forms the backdrop of Piazza Garibaldi, behind which the Renaissance church of Santa Maria della Steccata (daily 9am–noon & 3–6pm; free) was apparently built using Bramante’s original plan for St Peter’s as a model. Inside there are frescoes by a number of sixteenthcentury painters, notably Parmigianino, who spent the last ten years of his life on this work, eventually being sacked for breach of contract by the disgruntled church authorities. Five minutes’ walk away – turn right off Strada Cavour – the slightly gloomy Piazza del Duomo forms part of the old centro episcopale, away from the shopping streets of the commercial centre. The Lombard–Romanesque Duomo (daily 7.30am–12.30pm & 3–7pm; free), dating from the eleventh century, holds earlier work by Parmigianino in its south transept, executed when the artist was a pupil of Correggio – who painted the fresco of the Assumption in the central cupola. Finished in 1534, this is among the most famous of Correggio’s works, the Virgin Mary ﬂoating up through a sea of limbs, faces and swirling clouds, which attracted some bemused comments at the time. One contemporary compared it to a “hash of frogs’ legs”, while Dickens, visiting much later, thought it a sight that “no operative surgeon gone mad could imagine in his wildest delirium”. Correggio was paid for the painting with a sackful of small change to annoy him, since he was known to be a great miser. The story goes that he carried the sack of coins home in the heat, caught a fever and died at the age of 40. Just a few steps southwest of the Duomo is the beautiful twelfth-century octagonal baptistry (daily 9am–12.30pm & 3–6.45pm; €5), its sugary pink-andwhite Verona marble rising four storeys high. Its three elaborately carved portals and frieze are the work of the architect Benedetto Antelami. There’s more work by Correggio in the cupola of the church of San Giovanni Evangelista behind the Duomo (church daily 9–10am, 11–11.40am & 3–5pm; monastery Fri–Wed 9–11.45am & 3–5.45pm; free) – a fresco of the Vision of St John at Patmos. Next door, the Spezieria Storica di San Giovanni Evangelista, at Borgo Pipa 1 (Tues–Sun 8.30am–1.30pm; €2), is a thirteenth-century pharmacy with a medieval interior. Via Garibaldi and around

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A short walk northwest from Piazza del Duomo, the Camera di San Paolo in the former Benedictine convent off Via Garibaldi on Via Melloni (Tues–Sun 8.30am–1.45pm; €2) houses more frescoes by Correggio executed in 1519; above the ﬁreplace, the abbess who commissioned the work is portrayed by Correggio as the goddess Diana. Nearby, at Borgo del Parmigianino 2, is the Pinacoteca Stuard (Mon, Wed–Sat 9am–6.30pm, Sun 9am–1.20pm; €4), one of the city’s newest cultural attractions. Housed in a former convent are 270 paintings from the fourteenth to the nineteenth century that used to form the private collection of the nobleman Giuseppe Stuard. Upon his death in 1834, the collection was bequeathed to the congregation of San Filippo Neri, but has only gone on public display in the past few years. Around the corner on Piazza della Pace, the Museo Glauco-Lombardi at Via Garibaldi 15 (Tues–Sat

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| Parma

9.30am–3.30pm, Sun 9am–6.30pm, Sun in July & Aug 9am–1.30pm; €4) has a display of memorabilia relating to Marie-Louise of Austria, who reigned here after the defeat of her husband Napoleon at Waterloo. She set herself up with another suitor (much to the chagrin of her exiled spouse) and expanded the Parma violet perfume industry. Back west, across Via Garibaldi, it’s hard to miss Parma’s biggest monument, the Palazzo della Pilotta, surrounded by vast expanses of wonderfully green lawn set off by modern fountains and some slightly incongruous-looking statues of giant saucepans and coffee pots. Begun for Alessandro Farnese – the wily Pope Paul III – in the sixteenth century, the building was reduced to a shell by World War II bombing, but has been rebuilt and now houses a number of Parma’s museums. On the second ﬂoor, the city’s main art gallery, the Galleria Nazionale (Tues–Sun 8.30am–1.30pm; €6, including the Teatro Farnese), is a modern, high-tech display that includes more work by Correggio and Parmigianino, as well as El Greco, Fra Angelico and Da Vinci, plus the remarkable Apostles at the Sepulchre and Funeral of the Virgin by Carracci – massive, overwhelming canvases, suspended either side of a gantry. The Teatro Farnese (same times as gallery; €2, €6 including the Galleria Nazionale), which you pass through to get to the gallery, in the former arms room of the palace, was almost entirely destroyed by bombing in 1944. The restored theatre, still used occasionally, has an extended semicircle of seats three tiers high, made completely of wood, in a facsimile of Palladio’s Teatro Olimpico at Vicenza, and also houses Italy’s ﬁrst revolving stage. On the ﬁrst ﬂoor, the Museo Archeologico Nazionale (Tues–Sun 9am–2pm; €2) is a less essential stop but still worth a glance, with ﬁnds from the prehistoric lake villages around Parma, as well as the table top on which the Emperor Trajan notched up a record of his gifts to the poor. Across the river

Behind the palazzo, the Ponte Verdi crosses the River Parma, bringing you to the Parco Ducale (daily: April–Oct 6am–midnight; Nov–March 7am–8pm; free), a set of eighteenth-century formal gardens arranged to offset the sixteenth-century Palazzo Ducale (Mon–Sun 9am–noon; €3) built for Ottaviano Farnese and ﬁlled with frescoes by Carracci. Just south, the Casa di Toscanini on Via R. Tanzi (Wed–Sat 9am–1pm & 2–6pm, Sun 2–6pm; €2) is the birthplace of the conductor who debuted in the Teatro Regio here (see opposite), and is just one of the sights that recall Parma’s strong musical heritage. Further south still, on the same side of the river, the embalmed body of the violinist Niccolò Paganini rests under a canopy in the Cimitero della Villetta (daily 8am–noon & 3–7pm; free).

Parma FC and the Parmalat scandal In the 1990s Parma’s football team were one of the most successful in Italy, winning the UEFA cup in 1995 and coming second in Serie A. The team was bankrolled by the Tanzi family, owner of the dairy company Parmalat, the local industrial giant. Then in 2003, a criminal investigation into the company uncovered massive ﬁnancial irregularities, leading to it being declared bankrupt and its CEO, Calisto Tanzi, being imprisoned in 2006. Although the company managed to turn around its fortunes, the same could not be said for the team, who were relegated to Serie B, the Italian second division, for the ﬁrst time in their history at the end of the 2007/2008 season. They’ve since bounced back ﬁnally to Serie A and recently regained their status in the European Club Association. Buses #8 and #9 link the train station with the Stadio Ennio Tardini, which lies around a ﬁfteen-minute ride from the centre at Viale Partigiani d’Italia (T0521.505.111, W www.fcparma.com).

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Eating and drinking Many restaurants in Parma – especially the ones in the centre – can be rather pricey, though less expensive options do exist, most noticeably on Via Garibaldi and Strada Farini. Local specialities include the obvious Parma ham (prosciutto) and parmigiano reggiano – which are often served together as an antipasto – as well as guancia di manzo, cheek of beef. For snacks, prosciutto stuffed into pastries and other local delights are available for around €2 from the many bakeries, and picnic supplies can be bought at the market by the river on Piazza Ghiaia (Wed & Sat).

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| Around Parma

Al Corsaro Via Cavour 37 T 0521.235.402. Pizzas are the star attraction here, coming in both regular and large sizes. They start at about €6, and the dozens of combos are totally mouthwatering. Home-made desserts, too. Booking advised at the weekend. Closed Thurs. Corrieri Via del Conservatorio 1 T 0521.234.426. Good-value and charmingly traditional spot for enjoying classic Parmesan cookery. The pumpkin pastas are excellent. Expect to pay about €30 per person for a full meal. Open daily. Enoteca Fontana Strada Farini 24/A T 0521.286.037. Authentic old bar, with long wooden tables, a huge choice of wines from all over the region and a menu that includes great sandwiches and steaming bowls of pasta – all reasonably priced. Closed Sun & Mon. Gallo d’Oro Borgo della Salina 3 T 0521.208.846. Atmospheric little trattoria on a quiet side-street. Excellent ﬁlled pastas are the main attraction, and the mushroom crêpes

are particularly good. Primi €7, secondi €7–8.50. Closed Sun. La Duchessa Piazza Garibaldi 1 T0521.235.962. One of several restaurants with outdoor seating on the square, this offers perhaps the best food, with over thirty types of pizza (€4.50–9.50) and great people-watching opportunities. La Greppia Via Garibaldi 39/A T0521.233.686. Even by Parma’s elegant, expensive standards, this is a cut above, offering dishes such as frittata (a type of omelette) with veal, kidneys and mushrooms. Wine buffs will be spoilt for choice with almost 600 labels available. Primi €11–12, secondi €15.50–23.50. Closed Mon & Tues. Trattoria al Tribunale Vicolo Politi 5/B, up an alleyway off Strada Farini T0521.285.527. Affordable gourmet option (count on about €30 a head) that serves large plates of creamy pink prosciutto and other antipasti delights. More adventurous diners might like to try the braised veal cheek. Closed Tues.

Entertainment For nightlife in reﬁned Parma, opera and theatre take precedence over clubs. Fans of the former should head to the Teatro Regio, at Via Garibaldi 16/A (T 0521.039.399, W www.teatroregioparma.org). Teatro Due, next to the river on Viale Basetti, is the home of one of the top theatre companies in Europe, the Colletivo di Parma, who perform between October and April (T 0521.230.242, W www.teatrodue.org) and in the Palazzo della Pilotta in June and July – their shows draw on a tradition of comedy and political theatre. In summer the city’s entertainment options become more diverse – the piazzas host live jazz bands and during July and August locals ﬂock to the garden behind Camera di San Paolo for a free season on Wednesday nights of old horror movies, dubbed into Italian (9.30pm; W www.ufficiocinema.it).

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The countryside around Parma is a strange mixture: some of the major roads follow bleak gorges, skirting the edge of blank rock walls for miles; others look as if they will lead precisely nowhere before emerging into meadows and orchards with rich farmland stretching into the distance. Prime targets are any of the medieval castles strung out across the foothills to the south. There are around twenty, many built by the powerful Farnese dynasty. The

Castell’Arquato

The Verdi trail About 30km northwest of Parma, the small village of Le Roncole marks the start of Verdi country. By the main road on Piazza Giovannino Guareschi – named after the author of the Don Camillo books who also lived here – you can visit the humble house where the great composer was born (April–Sept Tues–Sun 9.30am–12.30pm & 3–7pm; Oct–March till 5pm; €4, or with cumulative ticket for three Verdiana sites €8.50). Some 5km up the road is Busseto, the childhood home of Verdi and the centre of the Verdi industry that has grown up around the composer, with regular opera performances during summer. It’s an appealing little battlemented town, but the main attractions are strictly for Verdi pilgrims. The Casa Barezzi (guided tours only Tues–Sun: April–Sept 10am–12.30pm & 3–6.30pm; Oct–March 10am–12.30pm & 2.30–6pm; €4, or included on cumulative ticket) on the main street, Via Roma 119, now a Verdi museum, was the home of Antonio Barezzi, a wealthy merchant who spotted the young Verdi’s talent and brought him in as a teacher for his daughter. Verdi lived here for a while and later married his pupil, Margherita. Now restored to its nineteenth-century state, the museum contains the piano that Verdi played on, the ﬁrst portrait of the maestro and memorabilia such as the baton that Toscanini used to conduct his Verdi memorial concert in 1926. The tourist ofﬁce in Busseto’s old rocca at Piazza Verdi 10 (T 0524.92.487, W www.bussetolive.com) can give you information about the sights and about tickets for concerts in the Verdi Theatre (visit also included on cumulative ticket). You’ll need private transport to get to the last of the Verdi sights, the composer’s villa, a couple of kilometres west of Busseto at Sant’Agata di Villanova. The villa (W www.villaverdi.org), which contains a mock-up of the Milan hotel room where Verdi died, is open for guided tours, lasting 45 minutes (Tues–Sun: April–Nov 9–11.45am & 2.30–6.45pm; Nov–April 9.30–11.30am & 2.30–5.30pm; €8).

| Around Parma

Some 35 kilometres west of Parma, is the beautiful CASTELL’ARQUATO, a nicely restored medieval town set on a hillside overlooking the Arda valley. At the top of the town is Piazza del Municipio, lined with some stunning buildings. The thirteenthcentury Palazzo del Podestà isn’t open to the public, but you can visit the Basilica, a magniﬁcently preserved Romanesque monument with an eighth-century baptismal font in the right-hand apse. The restored tower of the fourteenth-century Rocca Viscontea (Tues–Sun: March–Oct 10am–noon & 3–5pm; Nov–Feb Sat & Sun only 10am–noon & 3–6pm; €3) offers amazing views of the surrounding countryside.

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website W www.castellidelducato.it has a useful map locating all the castles and can help you plan a tour. It’s also worth buying a Castelli del Ducato card (€2) available from tourist offices or the castles themselves that will give you a €1 reduction on admission fees and is valid for a whole year. One of the best-sited castles is at TORRECHIARA, about 18km south of Parma and connected by hourly buses. The castle provides a superb vantage point over the surrounding area and also has frescoes by Bembo in the Camera d’Oro (March–Oct Tues–Fri 9am–7pm, Sat & Sun 10am–7pm; Nov–March Tues–Fri 9am–5pm, Sat & Sun 10am–5pm; €5). CORNIGLIO, reached by bus from Parma, is a centre for hiking and skiing; try the converted castle, Ostello di Corniglio (T 0521.881.012, W www.ostellocorniglio .it; €13) if you want to stay. More buses squeeze themselves round the tight bends to the small villages of Monchio (16km), Treﬁumi (20km) and Prato Spilla (23km from Corniglio), leaving you on the lower slopes of Monte Malpasso (1716m) – glistening with small lakes and tarns. Buses also run to Lagdei (14km), a starting point for further walks.

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The tourist office (May, June & ﬁrst half of Sept daily 9.30am–12.30pm & 2.30–5.30pm; rest of the year Tues–Sun same hours; T 0523.803.215, W www .comune.castellarquato.pc.it) is on the ground ﬂoor of the castellated medieval Palazzo del Podestà, at Piazza Municipale 1. Accommodation is thin on the ground; try the friendly, comfortable Leon d’Oro at Piazza Europa 6 (T 0523.806.033; breakfast extra, 2 ) at the bottom of the town, which has simply furnished doubles. Restaurants and cafés on the other hand are plentiful: the rather pricey La Falconiere (closed Mon) serves local specialities in the atmospheric surroundings of the castle. For more humble dining there’s Osteria La Cantina (closed Mon), on Vicolo Riorzo 1, which does big salads and primi from around €6. For snacks and pastries you can’t beat the thriving bakery/café La Casa del Pane on Piazza Europa.

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East along the Via Emilia from Bologna East of Bologna, the Via Emilia passes through a clutch of small towns – some of them industrialized and mostly postwar, like Forlì, the unappealing administrative capital of the region, others, like Faenza, with medieval piazzas surrounded by towers and battlements. Both started life as Roman way-stations and were under the rule of the Papal States for much of their subsequent history. The lowlands to the north are farmed intensively, while on the southern side lie hilly vineyards and pastures, narrow gorges that lead up into the mountains and a couple of ski resorts around Monte Fumaiolo (1407m).

Faenza Travelling east, cypress trees and umbrella pines, gentler hills and vineyards signal the fact that you’re leaving Emilia and entering the Romagna – although strictly speaking there’s no distinct boundary between the two regions. FAENZA, 50km from Bologna, gives its name to the faïence-ware it has been producing for the last six hundred years. This style of decorated ceramic ware reached its zenith in the ﬁfteenth and sixteenth centuries, and the town is worth a visit for the vast Museo Internazionale delle Ceramiche alone (April–Oct Tues–Sun 9.30am–7pm; Nov–March Tues–Thurs 9.30am–1.30pm, Fri–Sun 9.30am–5.30pm; W www .micfaenza.org; €6); it’s at Viale Baccarini 19. The exhaustive collection includes early local work decorated in the characteristic blue and ochre, as well as pre-Columbian, Greco-Roman and Islamic pieces; although the highlight is perhaps the Sala Europa, featuring ceramic art by Picasso, Matisse and Chagall. Faenza is still home to one of Italy’s leading ceramics schools, teaching techniques of tin-glazing ﬁrst introduced in the fourteenth century, as well as a major production centre, with small workshops down most of its side streets. Details are available from the tourist office in Piazza del Popolo 1 (April–Oct Mon–Sat 9.30am–12.30pm & 3.30–6.30pm, Sun 9.30am–12.30pm; Nov–March Tues–Sat 9.30am–12.30pm & 3.30–5.30pm, closed Thurs pm; T 0546.25.231, W www.prolocofaenza.it). The rest of Faenza is an attractive town with buildings garnished with ceramic art and an appealing medieval centre formed by the long, crenellated Palazzo del Podestà, the Piazza del Popolo and the Piazza della Libertà, which is the scene of much activity on market days (Tues, Thurs and Sat). Piazza Martiri della Libertà – through an archway from Piazza del Popolo – is where you’ll ﬁnd more stalls selling cheese and other local foodstuffs. In the summer local bambini turn entrepreneur hosting their own colourful children’s market on Thursday afternoons in Piazza del Popolo until around 8pm, selling toys, books and bric-a-brac. Another good time to be in Faenza is for the Palio del Niballo (W www.paliodifaenza.it), which takes

place on the fourth Sunday in June. If you want to stay here, you might consider bed and breakfast, around half the price of a hotel – ask the tourist office for the list of affittacamere. The best hotel in town is the four-star Vittoria, Corso Garibaldi 23 (T 0546.21.508, W www.hotel-vittoria.com; 3 ), a few blocks north of Piazza del Popolo, featuring nineteenth-century decor and a dining room with a frescoed ceiling. Eating prospects are mainly centred around the Piazza del Popolo, or try the excellent-value Osteria del Mercato, at Piazza Martiri della Libertà 13, a lively spot serving a huge range of authentic wood-ﬁred pizzas.

Brisighella

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South of Faenza, the village of BRISIGHELLA, halfway up a hillside, is a real food-lover’s delight, famed both for its restaurants (visited by people from as far aﬁeld as Milan) and its numerous festivals of gastronomy, which include the Sagra della Polenta (Oct), del Tartufo (truffle) and dell’Ulivo (both in Nov). Of the many ﬁne places to eat, some of the best include La Grotta, Via Metelli 1, which, though not cheap, offers truly gourmet Romagnolo tasting menus starting at €42 a person (T 0546.87.050; closed Tues); the somewhat less expensive Cantina del Bonsignore, at Via Recuperati 4/A (T 0546.81.889; open till midnight, closed Thurs), which serves an interesting, varied menu and good wine in a romantic setting; and La Rocca, just up the hill at Via delle Volte 10 (T 0546.81.180, closed Wed; W www .albergo-larocca.com; 2 ), which stresses the organic, traditional nature of its cuisine – everything is locally sourced, non-intensively farmed and handmade – and also offers rooms in its adjoining hotel.

Ferrara Thirty minutes’ train ride north of Bologna, FERRARA was the residence of the Este dukes, an eccentric dynasty that ranked as a major political force throughout Renaissance times. The Este kept the main artists of the day in commissions and built a town which, despite a relatively small population, was – and still is – one of the most elegant urban creations of the period. At the end of the sixteenth century, with no heir to inherit their lands, the Este were forced to hand over Ferrara to the papacy and leave for good. Life in the city effectively collapsed: eighteenth-century travellers found a ghost town of empty streets and clogged-up canals infested with mosquitoes. Since then Ferrara has picked itself up, dusted itself off, and is now a vibrant, provincial town that, with its grand squares, restored medieval palaces and portico-lined streets, looks a bit like a mini Bologna. It’s a popular stop for tourists travelling up from Bologna to Venice, but they rarely stay, leaving the city centre enjoyably peaceful in the evenings.

Hit the streets – Ferrara by bike Ferrara is famed as a città della bicicletta. Seemingly everyone in the city, from young to old, makes the majority of their journeys on two wheels. Outside the centre, the roads are bordered by cycle lanes. No such concessions are required in the trafﬁc-free centre, although the largely cobbled streets do pose their own set of cycling difﬁculties. You can rent bicycles at the station (to the left as you come out) from Pirani e Bagni (T0532.277.2190) or inside the city walls from Barlati Andre at Via degli Adelardi 1/3/3A, just by the Duomo (T0532.206.863), for around €6 per hour. The tourist ofﬁce can provide details of cycle routes both within the city and out into the Po Delta Park.

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Ferrara’s train station is west of the city walls, a half-hour walk along Viale Cavour to the centre of town, or take bus #1, #2, #9 or #3C (#2 is the most direct). The bus station lies just southwest of the main square, on Corso Isonzo. Parking is available at the southern end of the city, by the city walls on the piazzas Kennedy and Travaglio for €2 per hour. The main tourist office can be found on the north side of the castello courtyard (Mon–Sat 9am–1pm & 2–6pm, Sun 9.30am–1pm & 2–5pm; T 0532.299.303, W www.ferraraterraeacqua.it) and has plenty of maps and general information on the town. You can check your email at Infopoint, Via degli Spadari 1/2 (Mon–Fri 8.30am–1pm, Tues & Thurs also 2–5.30 & Sat 9am–noon), 30 minutes per day free. Market days are Monday and Friday with most activity taking place on Piazza Travaglio. On the ﬁrst weekend of the month (except Aug) there is a large antiques

market in the centre between the castello and the Duomo. One of the big annual events, held the last weekend in May, is the Palio, smaller than the famous Siena race, but still an exciting time to be here (W www.paliodiferrara.it). In August, the streets of the town ring to the annual buskers’ festival (W www.ferrara buskers.com), with musical offerings ranging from African drums to Dixieland bands, while the following month the skies are ﬁlled with giant blobs of colour as the Ferrara Balloon Festival (W www.ferrarafestival.it), one of the largest in Europe, gets under way.

Accommodation Ferrara has a number of affordable hotels, most of them handily placed in the centre, though booking is advised during the spring and autumn trade-fair season. or without bathrooms, one with private kitchen. No breakfast, no credit cards. 2 San Girolamo dei Gesuati Via Madama 40/A T0532.207.448, W www.sangirolamodeigesuati .com. Quiet, friendly and good-value hotel overlooking a green courtyard with its own very good restaurant. 3

Hostel and campsite Ostello Estense Corso Biagio Rossetti 24 T0532.204.227, W www.ostelloestense.com. HI hostel situated northwest of the centre with huge, spotlessly clean rooms with grand wooden beams; internet and wi-ﬁ; always open; dorm beds €16. Campeggio Comunale Estense Via Gramicia 76 T0532.752.396, [email protected]. Campsite on the northeast edge of town. Take bus #1 or #5 from the train station to Piazzale San Giovanni by the walls, from where it’s a 10min walk north; closed second half of Jan and Feb; €8 per pitch, €5 per person.

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Corte Estense Via Correggiari 4/A T 0532.242.176, W www.corteestense.it. This rather grand option with its oriental carpets, elegant courtyard and spacious rooms is all about total, inviting comfort. 4 Duchessa Isabella Via Palestro 70 T 0532.202.121, W www.duchessaisabella .it. A Relais & Chateaux-afﬁliated sixteenth-century palace ﬁlled with bright frescoes is the top choice for ﬁve-star luxury. The rooms come replete with antique furniture, giant plasma-screen TVs and wi-ﬁ. Parking included. Closed Aug. 8 Hotel de Prati Via Padiglioni 5 T 0532.241.905, W www.hoteldeprati.com. Very friendly and helpful establishment draped with interesting modern paintings; it offers comfortable rooms with antique furniture and wi-ﬁ. 3 Pensione Artisti Via Vittoria 66 T0532.761.038. Friendly, very unpretentious option in a modern block in the medieval quarter. Rooms available with

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Hotels

The Town Ferrara’s main sights are clustered together in an area that’s easily explored on foot. The castle is the main focus of interest, but several other palaces and museums offer reminders of the town’s more glorious past. The Castello Estense

The bulky, moated Castello Estense (Tues–Sun 9.30am–5.30pm, last entry 4.45pm; W www.castelloestense.it; €8) dominates the centre of Ferrara, built in response to a late fourteenth-century uprising and generally held at the time to be a major feat of military engineering. Behind its impenetrable brick walls, the Este court thrived, supporting artists like Pisanello, Jacopo Bellini, Mantegna, and the poets Ariosto and Tasso. It’s hard to credit all this as you walk through the castle now, much of which is used as offices and inaccessible to the public. The few rooms that you can see go some way to bringing back the days of Este magniﬁcence, especially the saletta and Salone dei Giochi, or games rooms, decorated by Sebastiano Filippi with vigorous scenes of wrestling, discus throwing, ball tossing and chariot racing. There’s also the less-innocent poison room which was apparently mainly used as a toxic pharmacy for the Este’s political enemies.

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Piazza Municipio and the Duomo

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Just south of here, the crenellated Palazzo Municipale, built in 1243 but much altered and restored since, holds statues of Nicolò III and son, Borso, on its facade – though they’re actually twentieth-century reproductions. Walk through the arch into the pretty, enclosed square of Piazza Municipio for a view of the rest of the building. Opposite the Palazzo Municipio, the Duomo is a mixture of Romanesque and Gothic styles and has a monumental facade, focused on a carved central portal that was begun in the mid-twelfth century and ﬁnished a century or so later. Much of the carving depicts the Last Judgement. Inside, the main part of the church has the grandeur of a ballroom, with sparkling chandeliers, but is much less intriguing than the exterior, and it’s in the Museo della Cattedrale, housed in the former church of San Romano across the square (Tues–Sun 9.30am–1pm & 3–6pm; €5), that the real treasures are kept. The highlight of the collection is a set of bas-reliefs illustrating the labours of the months, which formerly adorned the outside of the cathedral, and a beautiful Madonna by della Quercia. The medieval quarter

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The long arcaded south side of the Duomo ﬂanks Piazza Trento e Trieste, whose rickety-looking rows of shops herald the arcades of the appealing Via San Romano that runs off the far side of the square past the museum. Beyond this lies the labyrinth of alleyways that make up Ferrara’s medieval quarter; the arched Via delle Volte, a long street running east, parallel to Via Carlo Mayr, is one of the most characteristic. At Via Mazzini 95 a couple of synagogues and the Museo Ebraico di Ferrara, the town’s small Jewish museum (visits by guided tour only Sun–Thurs 10am, 11am & noon; W www.comune.fe.it/museoebraico; €4) preserve the memory of the town’s small Jewish community. On the wider streets above the tangled medieval district are a number of the Renaissance palaces, most of them closed to the public. The Casa Romei, at Via Savonarola 30 (Tues–Sun 8.30am–7.30pm; €3), is a typical building of the time, with frescoes and graceful courtyards alongside artefacts rescued from various local churches. Just beyond is the house, at no. 19, where the monk Savonarola was born and lived for twenty years, while behind the palace, the monastery church of Corpus Domini at Via Pergolato 4 (Mon–Fri 9.30–11.30am & 3.30–5.30pm; free but contributions accepted) holds the tombs of Alfonso I and II d’Este and Lucrezia Borgia. The southeast town centre

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Two minutes southeast of Corpus Domini, the Palazzo Schifanoia – the “Palace of Joy” – at Via Scandiana 23 (Tues–Sun 9am–6pm; €5) is one of the grandest of Ferrara’s palaces. It belonged to the Este family, and Cosimo Tura’s frescoes inside transplanted their court to Arcadia. In the Salone dei Mesi (the “Room of the Months”), the blinds are kept closed to protect the colours, and the room seems silent and empty compared with what’s happening on the walls, where three bands of frescoes depict Borso Este surrounded by friends and hunting dogs, along with groups of musicians, weavers and embroiderers with white rabbits nibbling the grass at their feet. Above, each section is topped with a sign of the zodiac and, above that, various mythological scenes. On nearby Corso della Giovecca, at no. 170, the Palazzina di Marﬁsa d’Este (Tues–Sun 9am–1pm & 3–6pm; €3) has more frescoes, this time by Filippi, and although its gloomy interior is less impressive than the Schifanoia complex, in summer the loggia and orange grove are a welcome refuge from the heat. In the other direction, to the south, the Museo Archeologico Nazionale, Via XX Settembre 124 (Tues–Sun 9am–2pm; €4), holds the city’s well-organized archeological collections, with ﬁnds from Spina, the Greco-Etruscan seaport and trading colony near Comacchio.

Down in the southeast corner of the town is a gem of a place: the Monastero di Sant’Antonio in Polesine, with exquisite frescoes (Mon–Fri 9.30–11.30am & 3–5pm, Sat 9.30–11.15am & 3–4pm; donations expected). Knock at the door of the convent and the nuns shepherd you into a chapel covered with works by the school of Giotto, including a rare Flight from Egypt in which Joseph carries Jesus on his shoulders. North of the castle

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Eating and drinking

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There are some more impressive palaces north of the castello, on and around Corso Ercole I d’Este – named after Ercole I, who succeeded to the throne in 1441 after his father Nicolò III died, probably poisoned, and who promptly disposed of anyone likely to pose a threat. His reputation for coldness earned him nicknames such as “North Wind” and “Diamond” and his huge ambition led him to order the extension of the northern quarter of the city, the so-called “Herculean Addition”, on such a grand scale that Ferrara was doubled, incorporating a planning system that was considered at the time to be boldly avant-garde. The Palazzo dei Diamanti, a little way down the Corso on the left, named after the 8500 pink-and-white marble ashlars in the form of pyramids (or diamonds) that stud its facade, was at the heart of Ercole’s town plan and is nowadays used for temporary modern art exhibitions as well as being home to the recommended Pinacoteca Nazionale (Tues, Wed, Fri, Sat 9am–2pm, Thurs 9am–7pm, Sun 9am–1pm; €4), holding works from the Ferrara and Bologna schools, notably paintings by Dossi, Garofalo and Guercino, and a spirited St Christopher by “Il Bastianino” (Sebastiano Filippi).

Ferrara has a good range of restaurants and trattorias with prices to suit most pockets, plus a few bars in which to while away the evening with the locals. For self-caterers, try Antica Salumeria Marchetti, a great traditional delicatessen on Via Cortevechhia 35, just south of the Palazzo Municipale, which does a particularly ﬁne line in salamis. Al Bríndisi Via degli Adelardi 11 T0532.471.225. The unprepossessing exterior conceals Ferrara’s oldest (at least ﬁfteenthcentury) osteria, once frequented by the likes of Cellini and Titian. The food is reasonable and reasonably priced, with weekday lunch menus for €13, €18 and €25, while some of the vintages in the magniﬁcent collection of port wines are among Italy’s ﬁnest and priced accordingly. Open daily till 1am. Bar Ludovico Piazza Ariostea 7. Welcoming café-bar set beneath arcades overlooking a pretty, grassy park (site of the city’s Palio) and seemingly always ﬁlled with gossiping locals. Great inventive salads and jumbo panini take their place alongside a large drinks menu. Clandestino Via Ragno 35 T0532.767.101. Down a narrow backstreet, this welcoming bar plus eatery is a popular pre/post ﬁlm stopoff for people heading to the nearby Apollo cinema, with a good selection of wines, cocktails and board games to while away the time till the main feature starts; wi-ﬁ, too. Il Mandolino Via del Volte 52 T 0532.760.080. A homey little trattoria down a narrow, atmospheric

back alley (look for the ﬂower boxes outside), offering a great range of intensely ﬂavoured rustic dishes with pumpkin, as well as a mouthwatering (and when you think about it, eye-watering) agnello o castrato (€9). Closed Mon eve & Tues. Osteria degli Angeli Via delle Volte 4 T0532.764.376. A bustling, welcoming place, with lots of different wines and a changing daily menu of good local dishes, with more focus on pumpkin (zucca). Moderately priced with primi €7–8, secondi €10–14. Open 7–10pm. Closed Mon. Osteria del Ghetto Via della Vittoria 26 T0532.764.936. On a Ghetto backstreet, set – rather incongruously – next to a modern yoga centre, this friendly place serves up all manner of ﬁsh specialities, such as spaghetti alle vongole (€12), as well as pork, beef or lamb for €10–13. Closed Tues. Osteria della Campana Via Borgo dei Leoni 26 T0532.241.256. Romantic, spacious spot down a narrow alleyway. Pumpkin specialities, local cheeses and homemade desserts are some highlights of an interesting menu. Closed Mon.

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Tassi Viale Repubblica 23, Bondeno T0532.893.030. Some 20km west of Ferrara – accessible by the “Bondeno” bus from the bus station – this place is a food-lover’s heaven. There’s no menu; you just let Signor Tassi lead you through

an amazing succession of ﬁne dishes. It’s not cheap (€30 per head without drinks) but it is unforgettable, and if you’re wise, you’ll book one of the large, comfortable rooms upstairs (2 ) so you don’t have too far to stagger to bed. Closed Sun eve & Mon.

The Po Delta

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| The Po Delta • Ravenna and around

East of Ferrara lies the Po Delta, an expanse of marshland and lagoons where the River Po splits into several channels, trickling to the sea, and small ﬁngers of land poke out into the Adriatic. Etruscan traders set up the port of Spina here between the fourth and third centuries BC, when the sea covered much of the land from Comacchio to Ravenna. Partly owing to drainage schemes, the briny waters have since retreated by 12km, and the area becomes a bit less marshy each year – an advantage for local farmers but a threat to the many varieties of sea and shore birds that inhabit the area. The two main lagoons of Valli di Comacchio and Valle Bertuzzi together form a major part of the Parco del Delta del Po (W www .parcodeltapo.it), which with the surrounding wetlands now constitute one of Europe’s most highly regarded birdwatching areas, providing a habitat for nesting and migrating birds, including herons, egrets, curlews, avocets and terns. The most evocative way of seeing the delta is by boat. Every spring free birdwatching trips are organized by the tourist office in Comacchio as part of the annual International Po Delta Birdwatching Fair (W www.podeltabirdfair.it). And between April and October voluntary groups run free boat tours on a typical marshland boat called a batane from its mooring at the ﬁsh market of Trepponti in Comacchio. Two-hour boat trips also set off from the harbour of Stazione Foce, south of Comacchio (daily April–Oct at 9am, 11am, 3pm & 5pm; T 0533.328.904 or 348.471.0332, W www.vallidicomacchio.it/indexe.htm; €10), accessible by car only; follow signs for “Museo delle Valli”. More information is available at the tourist office in Comacchio (see below).

Comacchio The region’s main centre, COMACCHIO is a small ﬁshing town intersected by a network of canals, also accessible by boat tour, with a famous local attraction in its triple-bridge or Trepponti, built in 1634, which crosses three of the canals. Comacchio is an eel port and a good time to visit is in October when the Festival of the Eel sees wriggling masses of the creatures ﬁshed out of the canals on their way to the Sargasso Sea. Eel (anguille) unsurprisingly takes centre stage in many local restaurants with other regional dishes like ﬁsh risotto and fritto misto particularly recommended. Call in at the tourist office at Piazza Mazzini 4 ( June–Oct Mon–Sat 9.30am–12.30pm & 4–7pm, Sun 10am–12.30pm & 4–6.30pm; T 0533.314.154, W www.comune.comacchio.fe.it) for more information.

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The main reason to visit RAVENNA, a few kilometres inland of the Adriatic coast, is simple – it holds a set of mosaics generally acknowledged to be the crowning achievement of Byzantine art. No fewer than eight of Ravenna’s buildings have been designated UNESCO World Heritage sites. They date from

Some history

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When Ravenna became capital of the Western Roman Empire sixteen hundred years ago, it was more by quirk of fate than design. The Emperor Honorius, alarmed by armies invading from the north, moved his court from Milan to this obscure town on the Romagna coast around 402; it was easy to defend, surrounded by marshland, and was situated close to the port of Classis – at the time the biggest Roman naval base on the Adriatic. After enjoying a period of great monumental adornment as chief city of the empire, Ravenna was conquered by the Goths in 476. However, the new conquerors were also Christians and continued to embellish the city lavishly, particularly the Ostrogoth Theodoric, making it one of the most sought-after towns in the Mediterranean. In the mid-sixth century Byzantine forces annexed the city to the Eastern Empire and made it into an exarchate (province), under the rule of Constantinople. The Byzantine rulers were responsible for Ravenna’s most glorious era, keen to outdo rival cities with magniﬁcent palaces, churches and art. By the end of the eighth century, however, the glory years had passed. The city was captured by the Lombards, after which the Adriatic shoreline receded – an eleven-kilometre-long canal now links Ravenna’s port to the sea. Ravenna sank slowly back into obscurity, a fate which has helped preserve its artistic treasures.

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a strange interlude in the city’s history during the late Roman–early Byzantine period when this otherwise unremarkable provincial centre brieﬂy became one of the most important cities in all of Europe (see below). Compared to places such as Florence or Venice, tourism seems almost incidental to the life of the town and for a city that has such historic monuments, the centre feels surprisingly modern – a combination of Mussolini’s building programme and Allied bombing that levelled much of the city during World War II. It’s a pleasant enough place to spend a couple of days and, though it has some excellent bars and restaurants, it’s the churches and mosaics that will monopolize your time. Nightlife is sparse, but a number of small coastal resorts, known as the lido towns, a dozen or so kilometres away provide some excitement in summer. And if you’re looking for a few thrills and spills, the nearby Mirabilandia (T 0544.561.156, W www.mirabilandia.it), a Disneyesque theme park, helps bring in the crowds during summer. You can see the park’s big wheel rising above the surrounding ﬂat countryside as you approach the city.

Arrival and information From the train station on Piazza Farini in the east of town, it’s only a ﬁve-minute walk along Viale Farini and Via Armando Diaz to Ravenna’s central square, Piazza del Popolo, which with the adjoining streets makes up the compact old centre. The bus station is across the tracks behind the train station, in Piazzale Aldo Moro. Parking is available – for around €1 per hour – on various squares around the centre, including Piazza Barracca and Piazza Mameli. With much of its centre pedestrianized, Ravenna is best explored by foot or on two wheels. Bikes can be rented from the Coopertiva San Vitale (Mon–Sat 7am–8pm; T 0544.370.31), the green building next to the train station, for €1 per hour or €8 per day; it also gives out maps and holds left luggage. The helpful tourist office is at Via Salara 8 (Mon–Sat 8.30am–6/7pm, Sun 10am–4/6pm; T 0544.35.404, W www.turismo.ravenna.it). You can go online at Mubarak Communication, Via Rocca Brancaleone 4/6 (open daily 9am–9pm; €2 per hour). There’s a branch of the Banco di Romagna with an ATM on the Piazza del Popolo.

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S. Apollinare in Classe & Cesena

Accommodation There isn’t a great deal of affordable accommodation in Ravenna, but there are some decent hotels, most located just a stone’s throw from the main Byzantine sites and eating options. Hotels

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Albergo Cappello Via IV Novembre 41 T 0544.219.813, W www.albergocappello.it. Old palazzo that’s been turned into an extremely stylish small hotel with just seven chic rooms and an excellent restaurant. 5 Al Giaciglio Via Rocca Brancaleone 42 T 0544.39.403, W www.albergoalgiaciglio .com. This small, basic but friendly place has rooms with or without private bathroom, and all with TVs. Ask for a room overlooking the courtyard. 2

Centrale Byron Via IV Novembre 14 T0544.33.479, Wwww.hotelbyron.com. Comfortable, smart place, with satellite TV in the well-appointed rooms and a/c in summer. Good value. 3 Ostello Galletti Abbiosi Via di Roma 140 T0544.215.127, W www.galletti.ra.it. Welcoming eighteenth-century palace, smartly refurbished with comfortable a/c singles and doubles. Three of the large rooms have ﬁne painted ceilings and antique terracotta ﬂoors. Amenities include wi-ﬁ, a gym, a garden and parking; very good value. 3

Hostel and campsite Youth Hostel Dante Via Nicolodi 12 T 0544.421.164, W www.hostelravenna.com. HI hostel, located east of the station handily opposite a large Co-op supermarket. An all-youcan-eat buffet breakfast is included in the price. You can get there on bus #1 and #70 or from outside the train station, or it’s a 10min walk – south out of the station, east under the tracks, follow Via Candiano and then head southeast down

Via T. Gulli. Lock-out between noon & 2.30pm; 11.30pm curfew, or you can pay €1 for your own key; €16. Camping Adriano Via dei Campeggi 7 T0544.437.230, W www.campingadriano.com. One of many campsites in the area, this one is in the coastal resort of Punta Marina Terme, 9km away. To get there take bus #80 from in front of the train station. Rates start at €6 per pitch and €6 per adult.

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| Ravenna and around

The centre of Ravenna is the Piazza del Popolo, an elegant open space, arcaded on two sides, that was laid out by the Venetians in the ﬁfteenth century and is now bordered by cafés. A few blocks south of the square, across Piazza Garibaldi on Via Alighieri, the Tomba di Dante is a site of local pride, a small Neoclassical building which was put up in the eighteenth century to enclose the tomb of Dante. The poet had been chased out of Florence by the time he arrived in Ravenna, and he was sheltered here by the Da Polenta family – then in control of the city – while he ﬁnished his Divine Comedy. He died in 1321 and was laid to rest in the adjoining church of San Francesco, a much-restored building, elements of which date from the fourth century. File down the stairs towards the tenth-century waterlogged crypt complete with the surreal touch of swimming goldﬁsh and remnants of a mosaic ﬂoor. The Museo Dantesco is off San Francesco’s cloister, Via Alighieri 9 (Tues–Sun 9.30am–6.30pm; free), and contains memorabilia of the poet and his ﬁnal resting place. A couple of minutes’ walk west of here, a group of buildings around Piazza del Duomo shelters the Duomo itself, with its cylindrical – and slightly tipsy – tower. Originally a ﬁfth-century building, it was completely destroyed by an earthquake in 1733 and rebuilt in unexceptional style soon after. More interesting is the Museo Arcivescovile in the Bishop’s Palace behind, with fragments of mosaics from around the city and the palace’s sixth-century Oratorio Sant’Andrea, which is adorned with mosaics of birds in a meadow above a Christ dressed in the armour, cloak and gilded leather skirt of a Roman centurion (daily: April–Sept 9am–7pm; Oct–March 9.30am–5.30pm; see box below for prices). The Neonian Baptistry, on the same side of the Duomo, by the bell tower (daily: April–Sept 9am–7pm; Oct–March 9.30am–5.30pm; see box below for prices) is a conversion from a Roman bathhouse. The original ﬂoor level has sunk into the marshy ground, and the remains of the previous building are now three metres below. The choice of building was a logical one as baptisms involved total immersion in those days.

Ravenna’s museums Ravenna has three museum cards: the Ravenna Visit Card covers the basilicas of San Vitale and Sant’Apollinare Nuovo, the Neonian Baptistry, the Mausoleo di Galla Placidia and the Museo Arcivescovile – all the church-controlled sites. The card is valid for seven days, costs €10.50 and can be purchased from any participating site. Note that tickets for these sites cannot be purchased individually. For the state sites you can get a joint ticket for the Museo Nazionale and the Mausoleo di Teodorico (€6), or one that covers these two and also the Basilica di Sant’Apollinare in Classe (€8); these can be purchased at the sites.

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Via di Roma, lined with bland, official-looking palaces, cuts right through the modern centre of Ravenna and sees much of its traffic. Halfway up on the right stands the Basilica di Sant’Apollinare Nuovo (daily: April–Sept 9am–7pm; Oct– March 9.30am–5.30pm; see box, p.405, for prices) – called Nuovo to distinguish it from the church of the same name at Classe (see p.408). Built by Theodoric in the sixth century, it contains some of Ravenna’s most impressive mosaics, running the length of both sides of the nave. Each shows a line of martyrs – one side male, the other female – processing through avenues of date palms and bearing gifts for Christ and the Virgin enthroned. As a Goth, Theodoric belonged to the Arian branch of Christianity that didn’t accept the absolute divinity of Christ, a heresy stamped out by Constantinople as much for political as theological reasons. When the Byzantines came along, they removed many of the mosaic ﬁgures that had been placed here under Theodoric’s reign. When Theodoric built the church in the early 500s, he dedicated it to Jesus, but when the Byzantines took over it was rededicated to St Martin, who was known for his anti-heretic campaigns and is shown at the head of the line of male devotees. Still later, in the ninth century, it was rededicated yet again to the present eponymous saint. Five minutes’ walk away up Via di Roma, next door to the Basilica dello Santo Spirito, is the Arian Baptistry (daily 8.30am–7.30pm; free), also built by Theodoric, with a ﬁne mosaic ceiling showing the twelve Apostles and the baptism of Christ. San Vitale and the Mausoleo di Galla Placidia

In terms of monuments, Ravenna’s biggest draw is the area ten minutes’ walk northwest of the city centre, around the Basilica di San Vitale, which holds the ﬁnest of the mosaics and is now gathered together into one big complex, including the mausoleum of Galla Placidia and the National Museum. San Vitale (daily: April–Sept 9.30am–6.30pm; Oct–Feb 9.30am–5.30pm; see box, p.405, for prices), which was begun in 525 under the Roman Emperor Theodoric and ﬁnished in 548 under the Byzantine ruler Justinian, remains unique for an Italian building. Created to an Eastern-inspired arrangement of void and solid and dark and light, the design was the basis for the great church of Hagia Soﬁa in Istanbul, built ﬁfteen years later. There were deﬁnite rules about who appeared where in mosaics – the higher up and further to the east, the more important or holy the subject. The series in the basilica starts with Old Testament scenes spread across the semicircular lunettes of the choir; the triumphal arch shows Christ, the Apostles and sons of St Vitalis. Further in, on the semi-dome of the apse, a beardless Christ stands between two angels, presenting a model of the church to St Vitalis and Bishop Ecclesius. Of the mosaics on the side walls of the apse, the two processional panels are the best surviving portraits of the Emperor Justinian and his wife Theodora – he’s on the left and she’s on the right – and a rich example of Byzantine mosaic technique. The minute glass tesserae are laid in sections, alternate rows set at slightly different angles to vary the reﬂection of light and give an impression of depth. Colour is used emblematically, too, with gold backgrounds denoting either holiness or high status. Theodora looks a harsh ﬁgure under her ﬁnery, and she certainly had a reputation for calculated cruelty, arranging “disappearances” of anyone who went against her. According to the sixth-century chronicler Procopius, in his Secret History of the court, her rise to power was meteoric. When young she made a living as a child prostitute and circus performer with her two sisters, and later became a courtesan and an actress in bizarre sex shows. She travelled the Middle East, and when she returned brought herself to the attention of the emperor, Justinian. To the horror of the court, he rejected the well-brought-up daughters of his Roman peers and lived with Theodora, giving her the rank of patrician. He was unable to marry

The Museo Nazionale and around

| Ravenna and around

Adjacent to San Vitale on the southern side, housed in the former cloisters of the church, the Museo Nazionale (Tues–Sun 8.30am–7.30pm; €4) contains various items from this and later periods – ﬁfteenth-century icons, early Byzantine glass and embroidery from Florence. Among the most eye-catching exhibits is a sixthcentury statue of Hercules capturing a stag, possibly a copy of a Greek original. Just a couple of hundred metres south of San Vitale, and accessed through the small church of Santa Eufemia, is one of the city’s more recently discovered Byzantine treasures. Uncovered in the early 1990s, the Domus dei Tappeti di Pietra (March–Oct Mon–Fri & Sun 10am–6.30pm, Sat 10am–4.30pm; Nov–Feb Tues–Sun 10am–4.30pm; €4) which translates as the “House of Stone Carpets” is the remains of a palace from the late Roman–early Byzantine period. It comprises 14 rooms, each adorned with intricately crafted ﬂoor and wall mosaics, the most striking of which shows ﬁgures representing the four seasons dancing hand in hand while another ﬁgure provides a musical accompaniment on a pan-ﬂute.

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her until his mother, the empress, was dead and the law changed; the two then embarked on a reign of staggering corruption and legalized looting. Across the grass from the basilica is the tiny Mausoleo di Galla Placidia (daily: April–Sept 9.30am–6.30pm; Oct–Feb 9.30am–5.30pm; see box, p.405, for prices) named after the half-sister of Honorius. The emperor’s frequent absences left Galla in charge of the city and she was responsible for much of the grandeur of Ravenna’s early days. Despite the name and the three sarcophagi inside, it’s unlikely that the building ever held her bones. Galla Placidia was taken hostage when the Goths sacked Rome, and caused a scandal by marrying one of her kidnappers, Ataulf. She went into battle with him as his army forged south, and later they reigned jointly over the Gothic kingdom. When Ataulf was assassinated the Romans took her back for a ransom of corn, after which she was obliged to marry a Roman general, Constantius. Their son formally became the Emperor Valentinian III at the age of 6, and as his regent, Galla Placidia assumed control of the Western Empire. Inside the mausoleo, ﬁltered through thin alabaster windows, the light falls on mosaics that glow with a deep blue lustre, most in an earlier style than those of San Vitale, full of Roman and naturalistic motifs.

The Mausoleo di Teodorico

Still within Ravenna, but a bit of a hike north of the train station, lies one more early sixth-century monument that’s worth visiting: the Mausoleo di Teodorico (daily 8.30am–5.30pm; €3). This ten-sided curiosity is unique in Western architecture owing much to Syrian models of its day, and constructed of Istrian limestone. The 300-tonne cupola is a single, if cracked, chunk and no one knows exactly how it was manoeuvred into place. Inside the decagonal second storey sits an ancient porphyry bathtub, pressed into use as the royal sarcophagus.

Eating, drinking and entertainment Central Ravenna is not exactly ﬁlled with places to eat, and you need to know where to go to avoid fruitless wandering. The covered market on Piazza A. Costa is open from 7am to 1.30pm and is a good source of picnic supplies. The Ravenna Festival in June and July attracts big names in the classical music world (W www.ravennafestival.org) with most performances taking place at the Teatro Dante Alighieri on Via Mariani, and the venerable Jazz Festival in July and August also draws international stars.

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Albergo Cappello Via IV Novembre 41 T 0544.219.813. The hotel’s restaurant and wine bar are both excellent, with salads (€9) and daily menus featuring ﬁsh, pastas with pumpkin and other local favourites, ranging from €9–20. Closed Sun eve & Mon. Al Rustichello Via Maggiore 21 T 0544.36.043. Consistently popular place where the excitable owner tells you the menu (in English too) and serves food that an Italian grandmother would be proud of – the cappelletti with asparagus is recommended. About €30 per person for a full meal. Booking advised. Closed Sat & Sun. Bella Venezia Via IV Novembre 16 T 0544.212.746. Come here for simple meals, expertly prepared – handmade pumpkin cappelletti (€8), asparagi alla Bismarck (asparagus topped with parmesan and an egg), etc. Eat formally inside amid the starched tablecloths or informally outside watching the city pass by. Closed Sun. Bizantino Piazza A. Costa T 0544.32.073. Self-service (or “free-ﬂow”) place, just inside the market, dishing up excellent-value, fresh-from-the-market hot and cold dishes

including some vegetarian options. Pick up three courses here for under €10. Lunch only; closed Sat & Sun. Ca’ De Ven Via C. Ricci 24 T0544.30.163. Stunning wood-panelled enoteca with painted ceilings and wine racks covering every available space. It offers a simple changing menu of a few pizza and pasta dishes, and a huge range of vintages to sample by the glass from €1.50 upwards. Closed Mon. Grand’Italia Piazza del Popolo 9/10 T0544.217.529. This extensive lounge, bar and restaurant offers everything from gelato sundaes to full meals, from elaborate buffets to casual drinks and people-watching on the piazza. For a light lunch expect about €15, with wine at €5 a glass. Open till 1am daily; closed Tues in winter. La Gardela Via Ponte Marino 3 T 0544.217.147. Rather smart spot featuring a view of the Torre Civica (Ravenna’s own leaning tower) with a varied menu of ﬁsh dishes and home-made pasta, all from about €20 for a full meal – primi €5–6, secondi €6.50–15. Closed Thurs.

Sant’Apollinare in Classe and Ravenna’s seaside resorts About 6km south of Ravenna by train or buses #4 and #44 from the station, the ruins of the old port of Classe (daily 9am–dusk; €2) are very thin indeed – the buildings have been looted for stone and the ancient harbour has now completely disappeared under the silt of the River Uniti. One building, however, does survive – the church of Sant’Apollinare in Classe on Via Romea Sud (Mon–Sat 8.30am– 7.30pm, Sun 1–7.30pm; €3), spared because it was the burial place of Ravenna’s patron saint. It’s a typical basilical church with further ﬁne mosaics including a marvellous allegorical depiction of the Transﬁguration in the apse, with Christ represented by a large cross in a star-spangled universe. There’s easy access by bus through Ravenna’s heavy industry belt to the nine lido towns nearby totalling 35 kilometres of coast. Marina di Ravenna and Punta Marina are both crowded, lively places; or for something quieter head north to the beaches at Porto Corsini, Casalborsetti and Marina Romea. Just before Porto Corsini, you pass the Capanno Garibaldi, a reconstruction of the hut in which Garibaldi hid on his epic 800-kilometre march from Rome after the fall of the short-lived Roman republic in 1849. Garibaldi’s life-long partner Anita, who often fought alongside him, died on the way and he was unable to stop for long enough to bury her.

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RIMINI, Italy’s largest and most varied beach resort, has long been a traditional summer magnet for families, to which many Italians return year after year, to stay in their customary pensione. But there is also an upmarket side to the town, with its boutique hotels, high-end restaurants and chi-chi clubs. And with that comes

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a less savoury aspect: Rimini is known throughout Italy for its fast-living and chancy nightlife, and there’s a thriving hetero- and transsexual prostitution scene alongside the town’s more wholesome attractions. Given Rimini was almost entirely destroyed in the last war, it’s surprising to ﬁnd that the town has a much-ignored old centre that is worth at least a morning of your time. But it’s the beach, the crowds and the wild nights that you really come for: Rimini is still the country’s best place to party. The resort is best avoided in August, unless you have a penchant for teeming crowds. Out of season, however, it’s a pleasant enough town, though bear in mind that many hotels, restaurants and shops are closed and the atmosphere along the seafront is almost eerily quiet.

Arrival, information and transport Rimini’s train and bus station is situated in the centre of town, on Piazzale Cesare Battisti, ten minutes’ walk from both the sea and the old centre. From Federico Fellini Airport (T 0541.715711, W www.riminiairport.com), 8km south of Rimini, bus #9 goes to the train station every thirty minutes; tickets cost €1, and can be bought at the airport bar and kiosks. A taxi costs around €20. There are several places to turn for more information on Rimini including a very helpful tourist office right outside the train station to the left (March–Oct

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Mon–Sat 8.30am–6pm, Sun 9.30am–12.30pm; Nov–Feb Mon–Sat 10am–4pm; T 0541.51.331). The main tourist office is at Piazza Federico Fellini 3, just back from the seafront (April–Sept Mon–Sat 8.30am–7pm, Sun 9.30am–12.30pm; Oct–March Mon–Sat 9.30am–12.30pm & 3.30–6.30pm; T 0541.56.902, W www.riminiturismo.it). Getting around is best done on foot, at least within the town centre. But if you need to use the buses, buy an orange ticket from a tobacconist or newsstand; it gives 24 hours’ unlimited travel in Rimini and the surrounding area (including Santarcángelo, Riccione and Bellaria) for €3. There are also a couple of nightbus services (see “Nightlife”, p.412). Alternatively, you could rent your own mode of transport – anything from a bike (€4 a day) to a quad bike (€40 a day) – from one of about two dozen vendors, such as Tiraferri Aurelio, Viale Medaglie d’Oro 1 (T 0541.391.072). There are banks with ATMs right along Via Amerigo Vespucci and in the Old Town. E M I L I A-ROM AGNA

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Accommodation Despite its 1300 hotels, ﬁnding accommodation can be a problem in Rimini, and in summer especially you may have to take the expensive option of full board. Out of season those few hotels that do remain open will be mainly geared to business travellers or school groups. You can book accommodation through the tourist office or the town’s hotel booking office, Rimini Reservation ( June to early Sept daily 8.15am–2pm & 2.15–7.45pm; T 0541.390.530, E [email protected]) next to the tourist office by the train station. Hotels Bel Ami Via Metastasio 4 T0541.381.643. Located along a peaceful, shady side-street, this one-star hotel offers simple but comfortable rooms. 2 Donau Viale Alﬁeri 12 T0541.381.302, Wwww .hoteldonau.it. Down a leafy side-street, this is a basic but welcoming option, open all year round. Bicycle use and beach facilities included. Minimum three days; half-board generally required. 3 Duomo Via G. Bruno 28 T0541.24.215, W www.duomohotel.com. In the heart of the Old Town, this designer hotel is terribly swanky and self-consciously ultramodern. The reception desk is a giant neon-adorned, ﬂying stainlesssteel doughnut, while the huge bedrooms are truly space-age and extremely well-equipped. Great breakfasts and very friendly staff. 5 Il Grand Hotel Rimini Parco Federico Fellini T 0541.56.000, Wwww.grandhotelrimini.com. A ﬁve-star vision of grand Fellini-esque luxury deﬁnes this historic property. It's right on the sea, surrounded by elegant lush grounds, and the rooms are graced by Venetian and French antiques. 8 La Gradisca Viale Fiume 1 T0541.25.200, W www.hotellagradisca.it. A whimsical, luxurious four-star, where the decor inside and out echoes the over-the-top set of a Fellini dream sequence – in fact, the name itself comes from the maestro’s unforgettable character in Amarcord. 5

Le Meridien Viale Lungomare Murri 13 T0541.396.600, W www.lemeridienrimini.com. This plush seafront hotel was designed by Paolo Portoghesi and boasts every facility imaginable, including a spa, a swimming pool, a good seafood restaurant and a beach club. It’s worth paying extra for the large, bright, sea-facing rooms, as the cheaper city-view rooms are rather small. 6 Verudella Viale Tripoli 238 T0541.391.124, Wwww.hotelverudella.it. Attractively smart and comfortable – with a touch of the ubiquitous Fellini fantasy – this is one of the town’s best options, run by a friendly brother-and-sister team. Open all year round. Half-board generally required. 2 Villa Adriatica Viale Vespucci 3 T0541.54.599, Wwww.villaadriatica.it. Part of the Ambient hotel group, this stylish choice is a refurbished Liberty villa, vintage 1880, with a swimming pool. The pricier rooms come with wooden ﬂoors, larger beds and a/c. 4

Hostel and campsites Camping Italia International Via Toscanelli 112 T 0541.732.882, W www.campingitaliarimini.it. Around 3km north of the city centre, right on the seafront, this campsite boasts its own beach, plus all the facilities you’d expect. It’s €10 per person high season, plus €16 for tent pitch and car park. Bus #4 from the station will drop you right outside at stop 14.

Happy Camping Village Via Panzini 228, Bellaria 112 T 0541.732.882, Wwww.happy camping.it. Some 12km north of Rimini, with 160 pitches (high season, pitches start at €14, plus €10 per person) and a wealth of facilities, including a private beach, swimming pool, restaurant and supermarket. It also has a hotel, bungalows and apartments to rent. Take bus #4 from Rimini station and alight at stop 52.

Sunflower City Hostel Viale Dardanelli 102 T 0541.25.180, W www.sunﬂowerhostel.com. Non-HI hostel open year round and offering clean dorms, lockers, bike rental and free wi-ﬁ access. It also operates a smaller beachside branch (Via Siracusa 25 T 0541.373.432; open March to Oct only). Beds in shared rooms from about €20.

The Town

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| Rimini

Rimini’s railway station divides the city into two neat parts. To the east is the main attraction, a long, clean sandy beach, its length lined by largely indistinguishable three- to ﬁve-star hotels, all of which have parcelled up their own particular stretches of beach and equipped them with beach bars, volleyball courts, watersports outﬁtters and other such holiday essentials. Running behind the front is Viale Amerigo Vespucci, a brash drag crammed with souvenir shops, restaurants and video arcades, while inland, past the station, sits the Old Town, an often unseen part of Rimini, made up of old stone buildings clustered around the beautiful twin squares of Piazza Tre Martiri and Piazza Cavour, and bordered by the port-canal and town ramparts. Unlike the touristy side of town, this quiet, reﬁned community stays in business throughout the winter, albeit in a low-key, backwater sort of way. Founded in 286 BC as Ariminum, Rimini was once an important Roman colony. On the southern and northern edges of the old centre respectively sit the Arco d’Augusto and Ponte Tiberio. The patched-up Arco was built at the beginning of the ﬁrst century AD at the point where Via Emilia joined Via Flaminia. Rimini’s other Roman remains consist of the Anﬁteatro, of which there are sparse foundations off Via Roma, just south of the train station. Just south of the Ponte Tiberio, Piazza Tre Martiri which largely follows the layout of the original Roman square, and Piazza Cavour are the two main squares. Piazza Cavour boasts a statue of Pope Paul V and the Gothic Palazzo del Podestà; the square was rebuilt in the 1920s, and purists argue that it was ruined, although the ﬁshtail battlements are still impressive enough. Opposite, beyond the sixteenthcentury fountain incorporating Roman reliefs, the beautiful old ﬁsh market often shades antiques stalls worth a browse. The Museo della Città at Via L. Tonini 1 (mid-June to mid-Sept Tues–Sat 10am–12.30pm & 4.30–7.30pm, Sun 4.30–7.30pm, Tues & Fri also open 9–11pm; mid-Sept to mid-June Tues–Sat 8.30am–12.30pm & 5–7pm, Sun 10am–12.30pm & 3–7pm; €5) has a collection of art dating from the fourteenth to the nineteenth centuries, the highlight of which is Giovanni Bellini’s pietà. Also part of the museum, just a few metres west on Piazza Ferrari, is the Domus del Chirurgo (W www.domusrimini.com), where a glass-sided structure sits above the remains of a third-century Roman surgeon’s house. The site has yielded numerous fascinating ﬁnds, including coins and bronze surgeon’s instruments (such as forceps and pliers), which are now on display in the archeology gallery on the ground ﬂoor of the museum. What remains here are the foundations and a set of mosaic pavements, including one showing Orpheus surrounded by animals. Just south of here on Via IV Novembre is Rimini’s best-known monument, the Tempio Malatestiano (Mon–Sat 8.30am–12.30pm & 3.30–7pm, Sun 9am–1pm & 3.30–7pm; free), which serves as the town’s cathedral. Built by the Guelph family of Malatesta, it was originally a Franciscan Gothic church before being transformed in 1450 into a gorgeous monument to Sigismondo Malatesta, a notorious condottiere whose long list of alleged crimes included rape, incest and looting. Understandably, the pope of the time, Pius II, was less than impressed and publicly consigned

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an ambivalent Sigismondo to hell. Sigismondo was more concerned with his great love, Isotta degli Atti, and treated the tempio as a private memorial chapel to her. Their initials are linked in emblems all over the building, and the Malatesta family’s favourite heraldic animal – a trumpeting elephant – appears almost as often. There are a number of ﬁne artworks, now restored, to look out for, including a Cruciﬁx attributed to Giotto, friezes and reliefs by Agostino di Duccio and a fresco by Piero della Francesca of Sigismondo himself. There’s more homegrown hedonism on offer at the temporary site of the Museo Fellini, Via Nigra 26 (T 0541.50.085; Mon–Fri 9am–1pm & 2–5pm, Sat & Sun 10am–noon & 4–7pm; free), which celebrates the director’s career with exhibits ranging from his drawings – the director began his career as a cartoon illustrator – to movie posters. E M I L I A-ROM AGNA

Eating and drinking Rimini is not the best place to eat cheaply with even snack places often being exorbitant. The seafront and Via Tripoli have cheap pizza bars but many eating options on Rimini’s seaside quarter demand formal dress and premium prices. Less ritzy restaurants can be found, however, and for the truly impoverished there’s a large Billa supermarket handily located on Via Vespucci 131.

| Rimini

Amerigo Viale Amerigo Vespucci 137 T 541.391.338. A welcoming, always bustling spot with a huge menu – and all of it delicious. Servings are generally enormous, too, everything from fresh mozzarella di bufala salads to seafood pastas, as well as wood-ﬁred pizzas and piadini. Expect to pay about €20 for a full meal. Caffè Cavour Piazza Cavour 13 T 0541.785.123. Good choice for a leisurely drink, a light meal – antipasti €7–10, insalata di mare €10 – and an elegant recline on one of the town’s ﬁnest squares. Casina del Bosco Via Beccadelli 15 T0541.56.295. In among a row of similar establishments, this place offers a large selection of generously ﬁlled (if not priced) piadini – tuna and carrot €4.50, roast beef, parmesan and rocket €6.20 – with seating under shady trees. Osteria de Börg Via Forzieri 12 T 0541.56.074. Friendly, busy and moderately priced restaurant serving innovative

regional cooking, such as galletto al tagame (wine-cooked chicken in a skillet), ﬁre-roasted meats and a dozen different vegetable dishes. Antipasti €8–10, primi €7.50–10, secondi €10–16. Booking strongly advised. Pic-Nic Via Tempio Malatestiano 30 T0541.21.916. A perennial favourite and rather elegant, with garden seating and reasonably priced pizzas (€5.50–8), calzones (€7–9) and crêpes, including vegetarian specials. Ponte di Tiberio Viale Tiberio 11 T0541.53.577. Very popular, upmarket enoteca offering a good selection of wines (over 600 vintages) and traditional cuisine based on local organic products; prices average €9–10 per dish. Dinner only; closed Mon. Reservations a must. Rimini Key Piazzale B. Croce 7 T 0541.381.445. Good-value set menus and pizzas, in a prime location for observing Rimini’s evening passeggiata along the seafront.

Nightlife

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Rimini’s nightlife is mainly concentrated on the seafront and in the fashionable enclave of Misano Monte above the town. Clubbing is a seasonal activity here, with full-on nightlife in summer, and few places open in winter. Even on a balmy July evening, things tend to start late with crowds cruising the bars from about 11pm onwards before heading off to the ﬁrst club at around 1am. If you haven’t got a car, or are drinking, use the nightbuses called Blue Lines (W www.bluelinebus.com), which act as Rimini’s club shuttles during July and August throughout the night (10.30pm–6am). There are ﬁve colour-coded lines – blue, pale blue, pink, green and yellow – with the main blue line trundling between Rimini’s train station and the nearby town of Riccione every twenty minutes, stopping at over ﬁfteen clubs en route. Nightly bus passes cost €4 (€15 weekly); tickets available on board.

For up-to-date information on the Rimini club scene, pick up the free Italian weekly listings magazine Chiamami Città from the tourist office, or check W www .chiamamicitta.com or www.riminilive.com. As with any trendy resort, the scene is ever-changing, so you can also just follow the crowds. translates as palm trees, neon, salsa and podium dancers. Attracts a slightly older crowd. Le Cocoricò Via Chieti 44 T 0541.605.183, Wwww.cocorico.it. One of Italy’s most celebrated clubs where thousands congregate every weekend under an enormous glass pyramid to rave to the latest in Italian techno. Nomi Via G. Bruno 28 T0541.24.215, Wwww .duomohotel.com. This fashionable disco club in the Duomo hotel is a place to pose charmingly, rather than dance too intently and risk dishevelling your carefully crafted look. Instead, perch yourself on one of the spring-like chairs surrounding the undulating, mirrored-steel central bar, then watch and be watched.

Listings Pharmacy Farmacia Comunale, Via IV Novembre 39/41 (daily except Thurs 8.30am–12.30pm & 4–8pm; T0541.24.414); when closed, details of all-night services are posted outside. Post office Main ofﬁce at Largo Giulio Cesare 1 (Mon–Fri 8.15am–5.30pm, Sat 8.15am–1pm); one of several smaller branches is at Piazzale Tripoli 4/6 (Mon–Fri 8.10am–1.30pm, Sat 8.10–11.50am). Taxis Radiotaxi Cooperative T0541.50.020; 24hr rank outside the train station. Fares are €4.80 basic, plus €1.30 per km.

| San Marino

Car rental Avis, Viale Trieste 16/D T0541.51.256; Europcar, Via Ravegnani 18 T0541.54.746; Mondaini Massimo, Viale Tripoli 16 T0541.782.646. Doctor T 118, or 0541.787.629, or Infermi hospital T 0541.705.111. Internet access The tourist ofﬁce has a list of internet points: one of the most convenient is inside the Sala Giochi Central Park, Viale Vespucci 21 (T 0541.27.550; daily 9am–2am). In the Old City, try the Asia Phone Center, Via Gambalunga 51 (T 0541.709.855; daily 8.30am–10pm). Both charge about €1.50 per hour. Laundry Lavaservice del Mare, Via Misurata 5 (daily 7am–midnight, till 10pm in winter; €4 per wash, €1.50 dry).

E M I L I A-ROM AGNA

Byblos Via Pozzo Castello 24, Misano Monte T 0541.697.745, W www.byblosclub.com. Summer-only club with several different bars and dance areas as well as a restaurant and an outdoor courtyard with a swimming pool. Carnaby Via Brindisi 20 T 0541.373.204, W www.carnaby.it. Wildly popular club spread over three ﬂoors, the lowest of which is subterranean and appropriately named “The Cave”. The music gets lighter, and less intense the higher you go. Like its namesake, it swings. Free shuttle service. Coconuts Via Lungomare Tintori 5 T0541.52.325, Wwww.coconuts.it. Right on the beach, this bills itself as a “Miami-style” indoor/outdoor club, which

San Marino Around 25km southwest of Rimini, the REPUBLIC OF SAN MARINO is an unashamed, though not entirely unpleasant, tourist destination that trades on its nearly two millennia of precariously maintained autonomy. Said to have been founded around 300 AD by a monk ﬂeeing the persecutions of Diocletian – it claims to be the world’s oldest constitutional republic – it has been bumbling along ever since in a quiet, unobtrusive fashion, away from the ﬁerce battles and intrigues of mainstream Italian politics. Essentially too small and inconsequential to be worth conquering, the republic has – save for a brief Borgia episode in the sixteenth century – been left largely to its own devices. Culturally, it is essentially Italian – there’s no San Marinese language – but in legal, constitutional terms, it remains independent, electing its own government, passing its own laws, minting its own money, producing its own postage stamps, and even maintaining its own, largely unused, army of around a thousand.

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There’s not a great deal to see. The ramparts and medieval-style buildings of the citadel above Borgomaggiore, also called “San Marino”, restored in the last century, are mildly interesting; there’s a waxworks museum in Via Lapicidi Marini 17 (daily: April–Sept 9am–6.30pm, July & Aug till 8pm; Oct–March 9am–12.30pm & 2–5.30pm; €6) as well as tacky souvenir shops and restaurants. And you can also get your passport officially stamped, for €5, by the border guards or at the information office at Contrada del Collegio (daily 10am–5pm; T 0549.882.914, W www.visitsanmarino.com). All the touristy tawdriness aside, however, it’s a good place just to stroll around; the walk up through town to the rocce, battlemented castles along the highest three ridges, is worth the effort for the all-round views. Below, in Borgomaggiore, is Giovanni Michelucci’s “fearless and controversial” modernist church, built in the 1960s, with a roof that seems to cascade down in waves. E M I L I A-ROM AGNA

| Travel details 414

Travel details Trains Bologna to: Ancona (every 30min; 1hr 50min–3hr 15min); Faenza (hourly; 20–50min); Ferrara (every 30min; 20–55min); Florence (every 30min; 35min–1hr 40min); Forlí (every 30min; 35min–1hr); Milan (every 30min; 1hr 5min–2hr 55min); Modena (every 30min; 20–30min); Parma (every 30min; 50min–1hr 20min); Ravenna (hourly; 1hr 20min–1hr 40min); Reggio Emilia (every 30min; 35–50min); Rimini (every 30min; 55min–1hr 40min). Faenza to: Brisighella (hourly; 10–20min). Ferrara to: Ravenna (hourly; 1hr–1hr 30min); Rimini (hourly; 1hr 50min–2hr 30min). Fidenza to: Busseto (hourly; 8–12min). Modena to: Carpi (hourly; 12–20min).

Buses Bologna to: Pontecchio Marconi (every 30min; 45min). Ferrara to: Comacchio (10 daily; 1hr 10min). Modena to: Carpi (20 daily; 50min); Maranello (hourly; 30min). Parma to: Busseto/Le Roncole (5 daily; 1hr); Roncole Verdi (5 daily; 50min). Ravenna to: Classe (every 30min; 10min); Marina di Ravenna (every 30min; 20min). Reggio Emilia to: Casina (hourly; 50min). Rimini to: Rome (2 daily in summer, 2 weekly in winter; 5hr 30min); San Marino (hourly; 45min); Santarcángelo (hourly; 30min).

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CHAPTER 8

Highlights

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The Duomo, Florence Climbing Brunelleschi’s dome is a must. See p.430

✱

The Ufﬁzi, Florence The world’s greatest collection of Italian Renaissance paintings. See p.434

| Highlights

✱

Chianti The country’s most famous vineyards. See p.457

✱

The Leaning Tower, Pisa Still defying gravity and still continuing to amaze. See p.462

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Lucca A stunning array of Romanesque churches in this most urbane of Tuscan towns. See p.466

✱

The Palio Siena’s historic horse race, run over three frenetic laps of the Campo. See p.487

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Tuscan hill-towns Tuscany’s hill-towns epitomize the region for many visitors, with San Gimignano the most popular. See p.496

Chianti vineyards

8

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|

he tourist brochure view of Tuscany as an idyll of olive groves, vineyards, hill-towns and frescoed churches may be one-dimensional, but Tuscany is indeed the essence of Italy in many ways. The national language evolved from the Tuscan dialect, a supremacy ensured by Dante – who wrote the Divine Comedy in the vernacular of his birthplace, Florence – and Tuscan writers such as Petrarch and Boccaccio. And the era we know as the Renaissance, which played so large a role in forming the culture, not just of Italy but of Europe as a whole, is associated more strongly with this part of the country than with anywhere else. Florence was the most active centre of the Renaissance, ﬂourishing principally through the all-powerful patronage of the Medici dynasty. Every eminent artistic ﬁgure from Giotto onwards – Masaccio, Brunelleschi, Alberti, Donatello, Botticelli, Leonardo da Vinci, Michelangelo – is represented here, in an unrivalled gathering of churches, galleries and museums. The problem is, of course, that the whole world knows about the attractions of Florence, with the result that the city can be offputtingly busy in high season. Siena tends to provoke a less ambivalent response. One of the great medieval cities of Europe, it remains almost perfectly preserved, and holds superb works of art in its religious and secular buildings. In addition, its beautiful Campo – the central, scallop-shaped market square – is the scene of the Palio, when bareback horseriders career around the cobbles amid an extravagant display of pageantry. The cities of Pisa and Lucca have their own fair share of attractions and provide convenient entry points to the region, either by air (via Pisa’s airport) or along the coastal rail route from Genoa. Arezzo and Cortona serve as ﬁne introductions to Tuscany if you’re approaching from the south (Rome) or east (Perugia). Tucked away to the west and south of Siena, dozens of small hill-towns epitomize the region for many visitors. San Gimignano, the most famous, is worth visiting as much for its spectacular array of frescoes as for its bristle of medieval tower-houses, even if it has become a little too popular for its own good. Both Montepulciano and Pienza are superbly located and dripping with atmosphere, but the best candidates for a Tuscan hill-town escape are places such as Volterra, Massa Maríttima or Pitigliano, where tourism has yet to undermine local character. You may ﬁnd lesser-known sights even more memorable – remote monasteries like Monte Oliveto Maggiore and San Galgano, or the sulphur spa of Bagno Vignoni. The one area where Tuscany fails to impress is its overdeveloped coast, with horrible beach-umbrella compounds ﬁlling every last scrap of sand. Elba, the largest of several Tuscan islands, offers great beaches and good hiking, but is busy in summer. Finding accommodation can be a major problem in the summer so you should deﬁnitely reserve in advance; W www.turismo.intoscana.it is a useful resource, and

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| Florence (Firenze)

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Giannutri Rome

includes details of agriturismi, family-run places dotted around the countryside offering anything from budget rooms in a farmhouse to luxury apartments in restored castles.

Florence (Firenze) 418

Since the early nineteenth century FLORENCE has been celebrated by many as the most beautiful city in Italy. Stendhal staggered around its streets in a perpetual stupor of delight; the Brownings sighed over its charms; and E.M. Forster’s Room with a View portrayed it as the great southern antidote to the sterility of AngloSaxon life. The pinnacle of Brunelleschi’s stupendous cathedral dome dominates the cityscape, and the close-up view is even more breathtaking, with the multicoloured

Tuscan cooking, with its emphasis on simple dishes using fresh, quality, local ingredients, has had a seminal inﬂuence on Italian cuisine. Classic Tuscan antipasti are peasant fare: bruschetta is stale bread, toasted and dressed with oil and garlic; crostini is toast and pâté. Olive oil is the essential ﬂavouring, used as a dressing for salads, a medium for frying and to drizzle over bread or vegetables and into soups and stews just before serving. Soups are very popular – Tuscan menus always include either ribollita, a hearty stew of vegetables, beans and chunks of bread, or zuppa di farro, a thick soup with spelt (a barley-like grain), while ﬁsh restaurants serve cacciucco, a spiced ﬁsh and seafood soup. White cannellini beans (fagioli) are another favourite, turning up in salads, with pasta (tuoni e lampo) or just dressed with olive oil. Tuscany is not known for its pasta, but many towns in the south serve pici, a local variety of thick spaghetti. Meat is kept plain, often grilled, and Florentines profess to liking nothing better than a good bistecca alla ﬁorentina (rare char-grilled steak), or the simple rustic dishes of arista (roast pork loin stuffed with rosemary and garlic) or pollo alla diavola (chicken ﬂattened, marinated and then grilled with herbs). Hunters’ fare such as cinghiale (wild boar) and coniglio (rabbit) often turns up in hill-town trattorias. Spinach is often married with ricotta and gnocchi, used as a pasta ﬁlling, and in crespoline (pancakes) or between two chunks of focaccia and eaten as a snack. Sheep’s milk pecorino is the most widespread Tuscan cheese (best in Pienza), but the most famous is the oval marzolino from the Chianti region, which is eaten either fresh or ripened. Dessert menus will often include cantuccini, hard, almondﬂavoured biscuits to be dipped in a glass of Vinsanto (sweet dessert wine); Siena is the main source of sweet treats, including almond macaroons and panforte, a rich and very dense cake full of nuts and fruit. Tuscany has some of Italy’s ﬁnest wines. Three top names, which all bear the exclusive DOCG mark (and price tags to match), are Chianti Classico, Brunello di Montalcino and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano – not the sort of thing you’d knock back at a trattoria. There are dozens of other Chianti varieties, most of them excellent, but it can be difﬁcult to ﬁnd a bargain. Both Montalcino and Montepulciano produce rosso varieties that are more pocket-friendly, and other names to look for include Carmignano and Rosso delle Colline Lucchesi. Two notable whites are dry Vernaccia di San Gimignano and the fresh Galestro.

| Florence (Firenze)

Regional food and wine

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Duomo rising beside the marble-clad Baptistry. Wander from here down towards the River Arno and the attraction still holds: beyond the broad Piazza della Signoria – site of the towering Palazzo Vecchio – the river is spanned by the medieval, shop-lined Ponte Vecchio, with the gorgeous church of San Miniato al Monte glistening on the hill behind it. For art lovers, Florence has no equal in Europe. The development of the Renaissance can be plotted in the vast picture collection of the Uffizi and in the sculpture of the Bargello and the Museo dell’Opera del Duomo. Equally revelatory are the fabulously decorated chapels of Santa Croce and Santa Maria Novella, forerunners of such astonishing creations as Masaccio’s superb frescoes in the Cappella Brancacci. The Renaissance emphasis on harmony and rational design is expressed with unrivalled eloquence in Brunelleschi’s architecture, speciﬁcally in the churches of San Lorenzo, Santo Spirito and the Cappella dei Pazzi. While the full genius of Michelangelo, the dominant creative ﬁgure of sixteenth-century Italy, is on display in San Lorenzo’s Biblioteca Laurenziana and the marble statuary of the Cappelle Medicee and the Accademia, every quarter of Florence can boast a church worth an extended call, and the enormous Palazzo Pitti south of the river constitutes a museum district on its own. If

419

you’re on a whistle-stop tour, note that it’s not possible to simply stroll into the Cappella Brancacci (see p.448), and that spontaneous visits to the Accademia and Uffizi are often difficult (see p.427). Some history

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| Florence (Firenze) 420

The Roman colony of Florentia was established in 59 BC and expansion was rapid, based on trade along the Arno. In the sixth century AD the city fell to the barbarian hordes of Totila, then the Lombards and then Charlemagne’s Franks. In 1078 Countess Mathilda of Tuscia supervised the construction of new fortiﬁcations, and in the year of her death – 1115 – granted Florence the status of an independent city. Around 1200, the ﬁrst Arti (Guilds) were formed to promote the interests of traders and bankers in the face of conﬂict between the pro-imperial Ghibelline faction and the pro-papal Guelphs. The exclusion of the nobility from government in 1293 was the most dramatic measure in a programme of political reform that invested power in the Signoria, a council drawn from the major guilds. The mighty Palazzo della Signoria – now the Palazzo Vecchio – was raised as a visible demonstration of authority over a huge city: at this time, Florence had a population around 100,000, a thriving mercantile sector and a highly developed banking system (the ﬂorin was common currency across Europe). Strife within the Guelph camp marked the start of the fourteenth century, and then in the 1340s the two largest banks collapsed and the Black Death struck, destroying up to half the city’s population. The rise of Cosimo de’ Medici, later dubbed Cosimo il Vecchio (“the Old”), was to some extent due to his family’s sympathies with the smaller guilds. The Medici fortune had been made by the banking prowess of Cosimo’s father, Giovanni Bicci de’ Medici, and Cosimo used the power conferred by wealth to great effect. Partly through his patronage of such ﬁgures as Brunelleschi and Donatello, Florence became the centre of artistic activity in Italy. The ascendancy continued under Cosimo’s grandson Lorenzo il Magniﬁco, who in effect ruled the city at the height of its artistic prowess. Before Lorenzo’s death in 1492, the Medici bank failed, and in 1494 Lorenzo’s son Piero was obliged to ﬂee. Florentine hearts and minds were seized by the charismatic Dominican monk, Girolamo Savonarola, who preached against the decadence and corruption of the city. Artists departed in droves as Savonarola and his cohorts, in a symbolic demonstration of the new order, gathered books, paintings, tapestries, fancy furniture and other frivolities, and piled them high in Piazza della Signoria in a Bonﬁre of the Vanities. Within a year, however, Savonarola had been found guilty of heresy and treason, and was burned alive on the same spot. After Savonarola, the city functioned peaceably under a republican constitution headed by Piero Soderini, whose chief adviser was Niccolò Machiavelli. In 1512 the Medici returned, and in 1516, Giovanni de’ Medici became Pope Leo X, granting Michelangelo and Leonardo da Vinci major commissions. After the assassination of Alessandro de’ Medici in 1537, power was handed to a new Cosimo, who seized the Republic of Siena and, in 1569, took the title Cosimo I, Grand Duke of Tuscany. Florence’s subsequent decline was slow and painful. Each of the later Medicis was more ridiculous than the last: Francesco spent most of his thirteen-year reign indoors, obsessed by alchemy; Ferdinando II sat back as harvests failed, plagues ran riot and banking and textiles slumped to nothing; the virulently anti-Semitic Cosimo III spent 53 years in power cracking down on dissidents; and Gian Gastone spent virtually all his time drunk in bed. When Gastone died, in 1737, the Medici line died with him. Under the terms of a treaty signed by Gian Gastone’s sister, Anna Maria Ludovica, Florence – and the whole Grand Duchy of Tuscany – passed to Francesco of Lorraine, the future Francis I of Austria. Austrian rule lasted until the

Pisa’s Galileo Galilei airport (see box, p.459) is the main airport for ﬂights into Tuscany. A small but increasing number of international air services use Perètola (or Amerigo Vespucci) airport (T 055.306.1300, W www.aeroporto.ﬁrenze.it), 5km northwest of the city centre; the Volainbus service (€8 return) provides shuttles from here into Florence Santa Maria Novella station every thirty minutes. Nearly all trains arrive at Santa Maria Novella station (Firenze SMN), a few blocks west of the Duomo. (A few trains use Campo di Marte, over in the east of the city, from where there are regular buses into the centre.) The main SITA bus terminal is on Via di Santa Caterina da Siena, a few steps west of the station; CAP buses from Prato arrive at Largo Alinari, on the eastern side; and Rama, Lazzi and Copit buses use Piazza Adua, a further minute’s walk north. The main tourist office is at Via Cavour 1/R, ﬁve minutes’ walk north of the Duomo (Mon–Sat 8.30am–6.30pm, Sun 8.30am–1.30pm; T 055.290.832, W www .ﬁrenzeturismo.it); this office provides information not just on the city but on the whole of Florence province. Smaller offices are to be found just off Piazza Santa Croce at Borgo Santa Croce 29/R (March–Oct Mon–Sat 9am–7pm, Sun 9am–2pm;

| Florence (Firenze): Arrival and information

Arrival and information

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coming of the French in 1799; after a ﬁfteen-year interval of French control, the Lorraine dynasty was brought back, remaining in residence until being overthrown in the Risorgimento upheavals of 1859. Absorbed into the united Italian state in the following year, Florence became the capital of the Kingdom of Italy in 1865, a position it held until 1870. At the end of the nineteenth century, large areas of the medieval city were demolished by government officials and developers; buildings that had stood in the area of what is now Piazza della Repubblica since the early Middle Ages were pulled down to make way for undistinguished office blocks, and old quarters around Santa Croce and Santa Maria Novella were razed. In 1944, the retreating German army blew up all the city’s bridges except the Ponte Vecchio and destroyed acres of medieval architecture. A disastrous ﬂood in November 1966 drowned several people and wrecked buildings and works of art, and restoration of the damage is still going on. Indeed, monuments and paintings are the basis of Florence’s survival, a state of affairs that gives rise to considerable disquiet. The development of new industrial parks on the northern outskirts is the latest and most ambitious attempt to break Florence’s ever-increasing dependence on its tourists.

City transport Within the centre, walking is generally the most efﬁcient way of getting around. The ﬁrst line of the city’s controversial new tram system was completed in 2010, but is of little use to tourists, being some way from the sights. For cross-town journeys, you might want to use ATAF buses (Wwww.ataf.net). Most routes originate at or pass near the train station; the tiny electric buses (#C1, C2, C3 and D) are the most useful for cutting right through the centre of town. The ATAF ofﬁce next to the bus stops outside Santa Maria Novella station sells tickets and has route maps. Tickets are valid for unlimited journeys within ninety minutes (€1.20 from tabacchi, or €2 on the bus), 24 hours (€5) or 72 hours (€12). A Biglietto Multiplo gives four ninety-minute tickets for €4.50; better value is the ATAF electronic card called the Carnet Agile, which comes in two versions – the €10 one gives ten ninety-minute tickets, while the €20 card is equivalent to 21.

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| Florence (Firenze)

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| Florence (Firenze)

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Nov–March Mon–Sat 9am–5pm, Sun 9am–2pm; T 055.234.0444), and opposite the train station, at Piazza della Stazione 4 (Mon–Sat 8.30am–7pm, Sun 8.30am–2pm; T 055.212.245). One of the best sources of information on events is Firenze Spettacolo (W www .ﬁrenzespettacolo.it; €1.80), a monthly, partly bilingual listings magazine available from bookshops and larger newsstands. Also useful is The Florentine, a free bi-weekly English-language paper, available at the tourist office, most bookshops and various other spots (listed on W www.theﬂorentine.net).

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| Florence (Firenze): Accommodation

Hotels are plentiful in Florence but demand is almost limitless, which means that prices are high and the tourist inundation has few slack spots: “low season” is deﬁned by most hotels as meaning mid-July to the end of August (the weeks during which nearly all Italians head for the beaches or the mountains), and from mid-November to mid-March, except for the Christmas and New Year period; between March and October, booking ahead is strongly advised. In recent years, boutique hotels and B&Bs have sprung up all over the city, operating under several different names: places calling themselves a relais or a residenza d’epoca are generally smart B&Bs, often located in historic palazzi. The Via Cavour tourist office has a full accommodation list, or see W www.ﬁrenzeturismo.it. Hotels and B&Bs The city centre Alessandra Borgo Santi Apostoli 17 T 055.283.438, Wwww.hotelalessandra .com. One of the best and friendliest of the central two-stars, with 27 rooms occupying a sixteenthcentury palazzo and furnished in a mixture of antique and modern styles. The more expensive en-suite doubles overlook the river; those with shared bathrooms are considerably cheaper. 3 Cestelli Borgo SS Apostoli 25 T055.214.213, W www.hotelcestelli.com. Spotlessly maintained by its young Florentine–Japanese owners and offering excellent value for money, this eight-roomed one-star occupies part of a house that once belonged to a minor Medici. The rooms are a good size (and three are en suite). No breakfast. 2 Helvetia & Bristol Via dei Pescioni 2 T 055.266.51, W www.royaldemeure.com. In business since 1894, this is a superb ﬁve-star

hotel. The rooms mix antique furnishings and modern facilities – such as hydromassage baths – to create a style that evokes the belle époque without being suffocatingly nostalgic. The standard rooms are not huge, but have lovely marble bathrooms; the superior rooms and suites are worth the splurge. If you’re going to treat yourself, this is a leading contender. Breakfast not included. 8 Hermitage Vicolo Marzio 1/Piazza del Pesce T055.287.216, Wwww.hermitagehotel.com. Pre-booking is recommended at any time of year to secure one of the 28 rooms in this superbly located three-star hotel, right next to the Ponte Vecchio. The service is friendly, the rooms are cosy, and there are unbeatable views from some rooms, as well as from the ﬂower-ﬁlled roof garden. Doubles (most with hydromassage baths) are hugely discounted in low season. 6

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Florence has a complicated double system of street numbering: commercial establishments (such as bars and restaurants) have red numbers (rosso), while private buildings have black or blue numbers – and the two systems don’t run in tandem. This means, for example, that Via Mosca 35/R might be next door to Via Mosca 89, but several hundred metres from Via Mosca 33.

Torre Guelfa Borgo SS Apostoli 8 T055.239.6338, Wwww.hoteltorreguelfa.com. There are 25 tastefully furnished rooms crammed onto the second and third ﬂoors of this ancient tower, the tallest private building in the city. It also has 11 slightly smaller and cheaper doubles on the ﬁrst ﬂoor. Guests can enjoy the marvellous views all over the city from the tower’s small roof terrace. Very charismatic and very popular – book well ahead. 4

San Marco and Annunziata areas

Azzi Via Faenza 56 T055.213.806, W www .hotelazzi.com. This two-star has ﬁfteen bedrooms decorated in a cosily rustic style, with antique furnishings and garden views from most rooms. The management has recently acquired two rooms and an apartment over the road; the Locanda della Musica is a bargain at €90, with a well-equipped kitchen and its own little terrace. Breakfast not included. 2 Globus Via Sant’Antonino 24 T055.211.062, W www.hotelglobus.com. The three-star Globus has a somewhat corporate feel (boxy furniture and natural tones throughout), but the rooms are very comfortable and the location convenient. 3 Kursaal Ausonia Via Nazionale 24 T055.496.324, Wwww.kursonia.com. A self-proclaimed “eco-hotel” proud of its green credentials, this family-run threestar offers a warm welcome. The decor is rather dated; ask for one of the three superior rooms with balconies. The price of a standard double can go as low as €55 out of season. 3 Merlini Via Faenza 56 T055.212.848, Wwww .hotelmerlini.it. Several budget hotels are crammed into this address near the station, but the family-run Merlini, on the third ﬂoor (no lift), is the best. Its ten rooms have marble bathrooms – an unexpected bonus in this price bracket – and six overlook the

Casci Via Cavour 13 T055.211.686, Wwww .hotelcasci.com. It would be hard to ﬁnd a better two-star in central Florence than this 24-room hotel. Only two (sound-proofed) rooms face the busy street: the rest are quiet, clean and neat. The owners are unfailingly helpful and courteous, and the big buffet breakfast under the frescoed ceiling of the reception area is a major plus. 4 Loggiato dei Serviti Piazza Santissima Annunziata 3 T055.289.592, Wwww.loggiatodeiservitihotel .it. The 38 rooms of this elegant, extremely tasteful three-star hotel have been incorporated into a building designed in the sixteenth century to accommodate Servite priests. All the rooms are decorated with ﬁne fabrics and antiques, and look out onto either the piazza, the peaceful gardens to the rear, or towards the Duomo. The ﬁve rooms in the annexe, at Via dei Servi 49, are similarly styled, but don’t have the same charm. 5 Morandi alla Crocetta Via Laura 50 T055.234.4747, W www.hotelmorandi.it. An intimate three-star gem, whose small size and friendly welcome ensure a home-from-home atmosphere. Rooms are tastefully decorated with antiques and old prints, and vivid carpets laid on parquet ﬂoors. Two rooms have balconies opening onto a modest garden; the best room – with fresco

| Florence (Firenze): Accommodation

The station and San Lorenzo areas

The Santa Maria Novella area

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Grand Hotel Minerva Piazza Santa Maria Novella 16 T 055.27230, W www.grandhotelminerva.com. A large four-star with big rooms; the superior ones overlook the piazza. The bedrooms have a cosy feel, with parquet ﬂoors and faux-rustic furnishings, and the bar and small swimming pool on the roof are major pluses. Doubles go for as little as €150 in low season. 6 Nizza Via del Giglio 5 T055.239.6897, Wwww .hotelnizza.com. A smart family-run two star, with helpful staff and a very central location. All rooms are en suite – the ﬁve out back are quieter – and are better furnished and decorated than many in this category. 2

Duomo; of these, room 11 is the best: airy and bright, with a wood-beamed ceiling. The low-season rate is as little as €50. 2 Mr. Myresort Via delle Ruote 14/A T055.283.955, Wwww.mrﬂorence.it. Run by the same friendly family as Relais Grand Tour (below), this new B&B has a handful of bright, quirkily furnished rooms arranged around a tranquil garden, but the real draw is the private, stone-walled spa in the basement, complete with Turkish bath and jacuzzi. 2 Relais Grand Tour Via Santa Reparata 21 T055.283.955, Wwww.ﬂorencegrandtour.com. The very hospitable owners have done a great job of turning two ﬂoors of this old palazzo into a superb guesthouse, with three charming rooms on the second ﬂoor and three suites on the ﬂoor below. Each room is unique – the “mirrors suite” is much requested by honeymooners. Cash only. 3 –4 Residenza Castiglioni Via del Giglio 8 T055.239.6013, W www.residenzacastiglioni.com. This discreet and hugely stylish hideaway has just half a dozen spacious en-suite double rooms (three of them frescoed), on the second ﬂoor of a palazzo very close to San Lorenzo church. Room 22 is the one to go for, with wall-to-wall frescoes. Doubles go for as low as €84 in low season. 4

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| Florence (Firenze): Accommodation

fragments and medieval nooks – was converted from a convent chapel. In winter rates dip as low as €110. 5 Residenza Johanna I Via Bonifacio Lupi 14 T055.481.896, Wwww.johanna.it. A genteel place that feels very much a “residence” rather than a hotel, hidden away in an unmarked apartment building in a quiet, leafy corner of the city, a ﬁveminute walk north of San Marco. Rooms are cosy and well kept, and the two signore who run the place are as friendly and helpful as you could hope for. The very similar Residenza Johanna II (T055.473.377; same website) is located further from the main sights, at Via Cinque Giornate 12. Cash only. 3 Residenza Johlea Via San Gallo 76 T055.463.3292, Wwww.johanna.it. Another venture from the people behind the nearby Residenza Johanna (see above), this tranquil residenza offers the same low-cost, high-comfort package. Two doors down, at no. 80, you’ll ﬁnd the somewhat plusher Antica Dimora Johlea (same phone and website), with deluxe doubles, all with four-poster beds, and a roof terrace with lovely views. The same team run the similarly upmarket Antica Dimora Firenze at no. 72 (T055.462.7296, Wwww.anticadimoraﬁrenze.it), which has six very comfortable rooms (some with four-posters) at slightly lower prices. Cash only. All residenza 4 –5

Oltrarno Foresteria Valdese – Istituto Gould Via dei Serragli 49 T055.212.576, W www.istitutogould .it. This budget hotel-cum-evangelical college is extremely popular, so it’s wise to book in advance. The rooms are very basic but clean, and most are en suite; there are some good-value family rooms

too. Street-front rooms can be noisy, but the old courtyard, terracotta ﬂoors and stone staircases provide atmosphere throughout. Check-in Mon–Fri 8.45am–1pm & 3–7.30pm, Sat 9am–1.30pm & 2.30–6pm. 2 La Scaletta Via Guicciardini 13 T055.283.028, Wwww.lascaletta.com. Three of the rooms in this tidy three-star have views across to the Bóboli gardens; the rooms on the Via Guicciardini side are double-glazed against the trafﬁc. Drinks and meals are served on the rooftop terraces (May–Sept), where you look across the Bóboli in one direction and the city in the other. All rooms were redecorated in warm Tuscan tones in 2010. Breakfast not included. 4 Lungarno Borgo San Jacopo 14 T055.27.261, Wwww.lungarnohotels.com. One of four hotels owned by local fashion supremo Salvatore Ferragamo, this luxurious retreat is just a minute’s walk from the Ponte Vecchio but discreetly tucked away from the tourist hordes. The rooms are as elegant and tasteful as you’d expect, and many have terraces overlooking the Arno; for a blowthe-budget treat, book the two-tier suite in the medieval tower. An abundance of modern art throughout, including drawings by Picasso and Cocteau, gives you plenty to look at, and there’s an excellent restaurant too. 8 Palazzo Guadagni Piazza Santo Spirito 9 T055.265.8376, Wwww.palazzoguadagni .com. Beautifully refurbished in 2009, this threestar hotel has 15 rooms on three ﬂoors, furnished with family antiques. The middle ﬂoor is nicest, particularly room 10, with its view of the Duomo and frescoed ceiling. The lovely loggia gets the evening sun – the perfect place to wind down with an aperitivo. 6

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Academy Hostel Via Ricasoli 9 T055.239.8665, Wwww.academyhostel.eu. Since opening in 2008, this modern hostel has won awards for its service and excellent facilities: set in a seventeenth-century palazzo, it offers airy, high-ceilinged dorms and a common area with huge ﬂat-screen TV, book and DVD library and lots of computer terminals, plus a sunny terrace. All this, and an unbeatable location – just steps from the Accademia and the Duomo. Breakfast and internet included. Rooms 2 , dorms €29–32. Archi Rossi Via Faenza 94/R T055.290.804, W www.hostelarchirossi.com. A ﬁve-minute walk from the train station, this privately owned hostel is spotlessly clean and decorated with guests’ wallpaintings and grafﬁti. It’s popular – the 140 beds ﬁll up quickly – and has a pleasant garden and

terrace. There are some basic en-suite doubles too (on the third ﬂoor; no lift), and a restaurant serving cheap meals. Breakfast and internet included. Rooms 2 , dorms €23–27. Santa Monaca Via Santa Monaca 6 T055.268.338, Wwww.ostello.it. This privately owned hostel in Oltrarno has 112 beds (female-only and mixed), arranged in a dozen dorms with between two and twenty beds. Kitchen facilities, laundry and free internet; meals are available but are not included. Check-in 6am–2am; lock-out 10am–2pm. Curfew 2am. It’s a 10min walk from the station, or take bus #11, #36 or #37 to the second stop after the bridge. Dorms €17–24. Villa Camerata Viale Augusto Righi 2–4 T055.601.451, Wwww.ostelloﬁrenze.it. This HI hostel in a beautiful park to the northeast of

the city (buses #17a and #17b from the station; 30min) is one of Europe’s most attractive hostels, a sixteenth-century house with frescoed ceilings. There are 320 beds, and a few private rooms.

Films in English are shown every night. Breakfast is included, but there are no kitchen facilities; dinner costs €10.50. Check-in from 2pm. Rooms 2 , dorms €18–20.

Campsites Camping Michelangelo Viale Michelangiolo 80 T 055.681.1977, W www.ecvacanze.it. A 240-pitch site that’s always crowded, owing to its superb hillside location in an olive grove overlooking the city centre. It has kitchen facilities and a well-stocked, if expensive, shop nearby. Take bus #13 from the train station. April–Oct.

Camping Panoramico Via Peramondo 1, Fiesole T055.559.069, Wwww.ﬂorencecamping.com. Located in Fiesole (see p.456), this 120-pitch three-star site has a bar, restaurant, pool and small supermarket. Open all year. Villa Camerata See opposite. Basic 55-pitch site in the grounds of the Villa Camerata HI hostel. Open all year.

Museum admission All Florence’s state-run museums belong to an association called Firenze Musei (W www.ﬁrenzemusei.it). The most popular museums have a daily quota of tickets that can be reserved in advance. The Ufﬁzi, the Accademia and the Bargello belong to this group, as do the Palazzo Pitti museums (including the Bóboli gardens) and the Medici chapels in San Lorenzo. You can reserve tickets (booking fee of €4 for Ufﬁzi and Accademia, €3 for the rest) by phoning T 055.294.883 (Mon–Fri 8.30am–6.30pm, Sat 8.30am–12.30pm), or through the Firenze Musei website, although this doesn’t always show the full availability, or at the Firenze Musei booth at Orsanmichele (Mon–Sat 10am–5.20pm), or at the museums themselves, in the case of the Ufﬁzi and Pitti; you can book at San Marco for all of the museums. If you use the phone line, an English-speaking operator will allocate you a ticket for a speciﬁc hour, to be collected at the museum, again at a speciﬁc time, shortly before entry. That’s the theory, but in reality the phone line tends to be engaged for long periods at a stretch. Generally, the under-publicized Orsanmichele booth – which is set into the wall of the church on the Via dei Calzaiuoli side – is the easiest option. Pre-booking is strongly recommended at any time of year for the Ufﬁzi and the Accademia, whose allocation of reservable tickets is often sold out many days ahead. Note that various concessionary rates are available: on-the-door admission to all state-run museums is free for EU citizens under 18 and over 65, on presentation of a passport; 18–25s get a 50 percent discount, as do teachers, on proof of identity. Nearly all Florence’s major museums are routinely closed on Monday, though some are open for a couple of Mondays each month. In the majority of cases, museum ticket ofﬁces close thirty minutes before the museum itself. At the Palazzo Vecchio, however, it’s one hour before, while at the Ufﬁzi, Bargello, Museo dell’Opera del Duomo, the dome of the Duomo, the Campanile and Pitti museums it’s 40 minutes.

| Florence (Firenze): The City

A short walk southeast from the train station brings you to Piazza del Duomo, site of the Duomo itself and the neighbouring Baptistry. The compact district from here south to the river is the inner core, the area into which most of the tourists are packed, and which boasts the best-preserved medieval parts of Florence

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| Florence (Firenze)

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and the majority of its fashionable streets. Just south of the Duomo is Florence’s outstanding sculpture gallery, the Bargello. The large Piazza della Signoria, some 300m south of the Duomo, is overlooked by the Palazzo Vecchio and the famous art gallery of the Uffizi. West of the Duomo, and backing onto the train station, is the unmissable church of Santa Maria Novella, while immediately north is the grand church of San Lorenzo, at the heart of a throng of stalls around the food market of the Mercato Centrale. Clustered together just northeast of San Lorenzo are the monastery and museum of San Marco, with its paintings by Fra’ Angelico; the Accademia, home of Michelangelo’s David; and Piazza Santissima Annunziata, Florence’s most attractive square. Heading east of the centre, the main attraction is the vast Franciscan church of Santa Croce. South of the river lies the Oltrarno district, where the array of museums within the Palazzo Pitti exerts the strongest pull, along with Santo Spirito, the Cappella Brancacci and the hilltop church of San Miniato al Monte. TUS C ANY

| Florence (Firenze): The City 430

Piazza del Duomo and around Traffic and people gravitate towards the square at the heart of Florence, Piazza del Duomo, beckoned by the pinnacle of Brunelleschi’s extraordinary dome, which dominates the cityscape in a way unmatched by any architectural creation in any other Italian city. Yet even though the magnitude of the Duomo is apparent from a distance, the ﬁrst full sight of the church and the adjacent Baptistry still comes as a jolt, the colours of their patterned exteriors making a startling contrast with the dun-coloured buildings around them. The Duomo (Santa Maria del Fiore)

It was sometime in the seventh century when the seat of the Bishop of Florence was transferred from San Lorenzo to the ancient church that stood on the site of the Duomo. In the thirteenth century, it was decided that a new cathedral was required, to better reﬂect the wealth of the city and to put the Pisans and Sienese in their place. In 1294 Arnolfo di Cambio designed a vast basilica focused on a domed tribune; by 1418 this project was complete except for its crowning feature. The conception was magniﬁcent: the dome was to span a distance of nearly 42m and rise from a base some 54m above the ﬂoor of the nave. It was to be the largest dome ever constructed – but nobody had yet worked out how to build it. A committee of the masons’ guild was set up to ponder the problem, and it was to them that Filippo Brunelleschi presented himself. Some seventeen years before, in 1401, Brunelleschi had been defeated by Ghiberti in the competition to design the Baptistry doors, and had spent the intervening time studying classical architecture and developing new theories of engineering. He won the commission on condition that he worked jointly with Ghiberti – a partnership that did not last long. The key to the dome’s success was the construction of two shells: a light outer shell about one metre thick, and an inner shell four times thicker. Brunelleschi’s genius was to lay the brickwork in a herringbone pattern in cantilevered rings, thus allowing the massively heavy dome to support itself as it grew, without the use of scaffolding. On March 25, 1436 – Annunciation Day, and the Florentine New Year – the completion of the dome was marked by the papal consecration of the cathedral. The Duomo’s overblown main facade is a nineteenth-century imitation of a Gothic front, its marble cladding quarried from the same sources as the ﬁrst builders used – white stone from Carrara, red from the Maremma, green from Prato. The south side is the oldest part, but the most attractive adornment is the Porta della Mandorla, on the north side. This takes its name from the almond-shaped frame

that contains the relief The Assumption of the Virgin, sculpted by Nanni di Banco around 1420. Inside the Duomo

Alongside Italy’s most impressive cathedral dome is perhaps its most elegant bell tower. The Campanile (daily 8.30am–7.30pm; €6) was begun in 1334 by Giotto, who was no engineer: after his death in 1337 Andrea Pisano and Francesco Talenti took over the teetering, half-built ediﬁce, and immediately doubled the thickness of the walls to stop it collapsing. The ﬁrst storey is studded with two rows of remarkable bas-reliefs; the lower, The Creation of Man and the Arts and Industries, was carved by Pisano himself, the upper by his pupils. The ﬁgures of Prophets and Sibyls in the second-storey niches were created by Donatello and others. (All the sculptures are copies – the originals are in the Museo dell’Opera del Duomo.)

| Florence (Firenze): The City

The Campanile

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The Duomo’s interior (Mon–Wed & Fri 10am–5pm, Thurs closes 4.30pm, May & Oct closes at 4pm on Thurs, Sat 10am–4.45pm, Sun 1.30–4.45pm; free) is a vast enclosure of bare masonry that makes a stark contrast to the fussy exterior. Initially, the most conspicuous pieces of decoration are two memorials to condottieri (mercenary commanders) in the north aisle – Uccello’s monument to Sir John Hawkwood, painted in 1436, and Castagno’s monument to Niccolò da Tolentino, created twenty years later. Just beyond, Domenico do Michelino’s Dante Explaining the Divine Comedy makes the dome only marginally less prominent than the mountain of Purgatory. Judged by mere size, the major work of art in the Duomo is the fresco of The Last Judgement inside the dome; painted by Vasari and Zuccari, it merely defaces Brunelleschi’s masterpiece. Below the fresco are seven stained-glass roundels designed by Uccello, Ghiberti, Castagno and Donatello; they are best inspected from the gallery immediately below them, which forms part of the route up inside the dome – the entrance is outside, on the north side (Mon–Fri 8.30am–7pm, Sat 8.30am–5.40pm; €8). The gallery is the queasiest part of the climb, most of which winds between the brick walls of the outer and inner shells of the dome, up to the very summit with its stunning views over the city. In the 1960s remnants of the Duomo’s predecessor, Santa Reparata, were uncovered beneath the west end of the nave (€3). A detailed model helps make sense of the jigsaw of Roman, early Christian and Romanesque remains, areas of mosaic and patches of fourteenth-century frescoes. Also down here is the tomb of Brunelleschi, one of the few Florentines ever honoured with burial inside the Duomo.

The Baptistry

Generally thought to date from the sixth or seventh century, the Baptistry (Mon– Sat 12.15–7pm, Sun & ﬁrst Sat of month 8.30am–2pm; €4) is the oldest building in Florence, and no building better illustrates the special relationship between Florence and the Roman world. Throughout the Middle Ages the Florentines chose to believe that the Baptistry was originally a Roman temple to Mars, a belief bolstered by the interior’s inclusion of Roman granite columns. The pattern of its marble cladding, applied in the eleventh and twelfth centuries, is clearly classical in inspiration, and the Baptistry’s most famous embellishments – its gilded bronze doors – mark the emergence of a self-conscious interest in the art of the ancient world. After Andrea Pisano’s success in 1336 with the doors that are now on the south side of the building, the merchants’ guild held a competition in 1401 for the job of making a new set. The two ﬁnalists were Brunelleschi and Lorenzo Ghiberti – and the latter won the day. Ghiberti’s north doors show a new naturalism and classical sense of harmony, but their innovation is timid in comparison with his

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sublime east doors. Unprecedented in the subtlety of their modelling, these Old Testament scenes are a primer of early Renaissance art, using perspective, gesture and sophisticated grouping of their subjects to convey the human drama of each scene. Ghiberti has included a self-portrait in the frame of the left-hand door – his is the fourth head from the top of the right-hand band. All the panels now set in the door are replicas, with the originals on display in the Museo dell’Opera; the original competition entries are in the Bargello. Inside, both the mosaic ﬂoor and the magniﬁcent mosaic ceiling – including a fearsome platoon of demons at the feet of Christ in Judgement – were created in the thirteenth century. To the right of the altar is the tomb of John XXIII, the schismatic pope who died in Florence in 1419. The monument, draped by an illusionistic marble canopy, is the work of Donatello and his pupil Michelozzo. The Museo dell’Opera del Duomo TUS C ANY

| Florence (Firenze): The City

At Piazza del Duomo 9, behind the east end of the Duomo, is the Museo dell’Opera del Duomo (Mon–Sat 9am–7.30pm, Sun 9am–1.40pm; €6), a repository of the most precious and fragile works of art from the Duomo, Baptistry and Campanile. In the large ground-ﬂoor hall are four seated Evangelists (including Donatello’s ﬁne St John) wrenched from the Duomo’s demolished sixteenth-century facade. On the mezzanine is the highlight of the museum – Michelangelo’s angular and anguished pietà. This was one of his last works, carved when he was almost 80 and intended for his own tomb: Vasari records that the face of the hooded Nicodemus is a selfportrait. Upstairs are Donatello’s ﬁgures for the Campanile, the most powerful of which is the prophet Habbakuk, the intensity of whose gaze allegedly prompted the sculptor to seize it and yell “Speak, speak!” Donatello also created one of the ornate cantorie (choir-lofts) here; the other, created at the same time, is by Luca della Robbia. An adjacent room is dominated by Donatello’s haggard wooden ﬁgure of Mary Magdalene, a wild presence amid cases full of rich vestments, jewelled reliquaries, and a huge silver-gilt altar. Also on this ﬂoor are the original reliefs from the Campanile and a corridor lined with equipment used in the construction of the dome – and look out for Brunelleschi’s death mask. You return to ground level into a covered courtyard where Michelangelo worked from 1501 to 1504 on his David. Today, it displays Ghiberti’s original ten bronze panels for the Baptistry’s east doors. Piazza della Repubblica and Orsanmichele

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The main route south from Piazza del Duomo is the arrow-straight Via dei Calzaiuoli, a catwalk for the Florentine passeggiata. Halfway down the street is the opening into Piazza della Repubblica, created in the nineteenth century by razing the old Jewish quarter and markets which once stood here in an attempt to give Florence – brieﬂy the capital of Italy – a grand public square. It’s a characterless place, notably solely for its size and upmarket cafés. Towards the southern end of Via dei Calzaiuoli rises the block-like church of Orsanmichele (Tues–Sun 10am–5pm; free). From the ninth century, the church of San Michele ad Hortum (“at the garden”) stood here, which was replaced in 1240 by a grain market and after a ﬁre in 1304 by a merchants’ loggia. In 1380 the loggia was walled in and dedicated exclusively to religious functions, while two upper storeys were added for use as emergency grain stores. Its exterior has some impressive sculpture, including St Matthew, St Stephen and John the Baptist by Ghiberti (the Baptist was the ﬁrst life-size bronze statue of the Renaissance), and Donatello’s St George. All these statues are replicas – nearly all of the originals are on display in the museum (Mon 10am–5pm; free), entered via the footbridge from the Palazzo dell’Arte della Lana, opposite the church entrance.

Piazza della Signoria and around

Probably designed by Arnolfo di Cambio, Florence’s fortress-like town hall, the Palazzo Vecchio (daily 9am–7pm, Thurs closes at 2pm, sometimes open late in summer; €6), was begun as the Palazzo dei Priori in the last year of the thirteenth century, to provide premises for the highest tier of the city’s republican government. Changes in the Florentine constitution over the years entailed alterations to the layout of the palace, the most radical coming in 1540, when Cosimo I moved his retinue here from the Palazzo Medici and grafted a huge extension onto the rear. The Medici remained in residence for only nine years before moving to the Palazzo Pitti; the old (vecchio) palace – which they left to their son, Francesco – then acquired its present name. Giorgio Vasari, court architect from 1555 until his death in 1574, was responsible for much of the decor in the courtyard, and his limited talents were given full rein in the huge Salone dei Cinquecento at the top of the stairs, which was built at the end of the ﬁfteenth century as a council assembly hall. This room might have become one of Italy’s most extraordinary showcases of Renaissance art, when in 1503 Leonardo da Vinci and Michelangelo were commissioned to fresco opposite walls of the chamber. Unfortunately, Leonardo abandoned the project after his experimental fresco technique went wrong, and Michelangelo’s work existed only on paper when he was summoned to Rome by Pope Julius II. A few decades later Vasari stepped in, and covered the room with drearily bombastic murals celebrating Cosimo’s military prowess. Michelangelo’s Victory, facing the entrance door, was sculpted for Julius’s tomb but was donated to the Medici by the artist’s nephew. From the Salone del Cinquecento, a roped-off door allows a glimpse of the strangest room in the building, the Studiolo di Francesco I. Designed by Vasari towards the end of his career and decorated by no fewer than thirty Mannerist artists (1570–74), this windowless cell was created as a retreat for the introverted son of Cosimo and Eleanor. Upstairs, you ﬁrst enter the Quartiere degli Elementi, where all ﬁve salons are slavishly devoted to a different member of the Medici clan. More interesting are the private apartments of Eleanor di Toledo, Cosimo I’s wife – especially the tiny and exquisite chapel, vividly decorated by Bronzino in the 1540s. Beyond the frescoed Sala dell’Udienza (originally the audience chamber of the Republic) you

| Florence (Firenze): The City

The Palazzo Vecchio

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Whereas the Piazza del Duomo provides the focus for the city’s religious life, the Piazza della Signoria – site of the mighty Palazzo Vecchio and forecourt to the Uffizi – has always been the centre of its secular existence. The most lavishly decorated rooms of the Palazzo Vecchio are now a museum, but the rest of the building is still the HQ of the city’s councillors and bureaucrats, and the piazza in front of it provides the stage for major civic events and political rallies. The piazza’s array of statuary starts with Giambologna’s equestrian statue of Cosimo I and continues with Ammanati’s fatuous Neptune Fountain and copies of Donatello’s Marzocco (the city’s heraldic lion), his Judith and Holofernes and of Michelangelo’s David. Conceived as a partner piece to David, Bandinelli’s lumpen Hercules and Cacus was designed as a personal emblem of Cosimo I and a symbol of Florentine fortitude; Benvenuto Cellini described the musclebound Hercules as looking like “a sackful of melons”. Near Ammanati’s fountain is a plaque set into the pavement to mark the site of Savonarola’s Bonﬁre of the Vanities and his execution. The square’s Loggia della Signoria was built in the late fourteenth century as a dais for city officials during ceremonies; only in the late eighteenth century did it become a showcase for sculpture, the best of which are Giambologna’s Rape of the Sabine and Cellini’s superb Perseus.

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come to the Sala dei Gigli, which takes its name from the lilies (gigli) that adorn most of its surfaces. The room has frescoes by Domenico Ghirlandaio, but the highlight is Donatello’s original Judith and Holofernes. Commissioned by Cosimo il Vecchio, it freezes the moment at which Judith’s arm begins the scything stroke that is to cut off Holofernes’ head, a dramatic conception that no other sculptor of the period would have attempted. The two small side-rooms are the Cancelleria, Machiavelli’s office for ﬁfteen years and now containing a bust and portrait of the much-maligned political thinker; and the lovely Sala delle Carte, decorated with 57 maps painted in 1563 by the Medici court astronomer Fra’ Ignazio Danti, depicting what was then the entire known world. The Ufﬁzi

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| Florence (Firenze): The City

The Galleria degli Uffizi (Tues–Sun 8.15am–6.50pm; €6.50; see box, p.427 for booking details) is, quite simply, the ﬁnest picture gallery in Italy. So many masterpieces are collected here that it’s not even possible to skate over the surface in a single visit. Though you may not want to emulate Edward Gibbon, who visited the Uffizi fourteen times on a single trip to Florence, it makes sense to limit your initial tour to the ﬁrst ﬁfteen rooms, where the Florentine Renaissance works are concentrated, and to explore the rest another time. The gallery is housed in what were once government offices (uffizi) built by Vasari for Cosimo I in 1560. After Vasari’s death, work on the building was continued by Buontalenti, who was asked by Francesco I to glaze the upper storey so that it could house his art collection. Each of the succeeding Medici added to the family’s trove of art treasures, which was preserved for public inspection by the last member of the family, Anna Maria Lodovica, whose will speciﬁed that it should be left to the people of Florence and never be allowed to leave the city. In the nineteenth century a large proportion of the statuary was transferred to the Bargello, while most of the antiquities went to the Museo Archeologico, leaving the Uffizi as essentially a gallery of paintings supplemented with some classical sculptures. The gallery is in the process of expansion, doubling the number of rooms open to the public in order to show some eight hundred pictures that have been kept in storage. Works are likely to be completed in 2015; accordingly, some paintings may not be on show precisely where they appear in the following account. Pre-Renaissance

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You can take a lift up to the galleries, but if you take the staircase instead, you’ll pass the entrance to the Uffizi’s prints and drawings section. The bulk of this vast collection is reserved for scholarly scrutiny but samples are often on public show. The beginnings of the stylistic evolution of that period can be traced in the three altarpieces of the Maestà (Madonna Enthroned) that dominate Room 2: the Madonna Rucellai, Maestà di Santa Trìnita and Madonna d’Ognissanti, by Duccio, Cimabue and Giotto respectively. These great works, which dwarf everything around them, show the softening of the hieratic Byzantine style into a more tactile form of representation. Painters from fourteenth-century Siena ﬁll Room 3, with several pieces by Ambrogio and Pietro Lorenzetti and Simone Martini’s glorious Annunciation. In Room 5, devoted to the last ﬂowering of Gothic art, Lorenzo Monaco is represented by an Adoration of the Magi and his greatest masterpiece, The Coronation of the Virgin. Equally arresting is another Adoration of the Magi by Gentile da Fabriano, a picture spangled with gold and crammed with incidental detail. Nearby is the Thebaid, a beguiling little narrative that depicts monastic life in the Egyptian desert as a sort of holy fairy-tale; it’s generally attributed to the young Fra’ Angelico.

Early Renaissance

Lippi’s great pupil, Botticelli, steals some of the thunder in Room 9 – Fortitude, one of the series of cardinal and theological virtues, is a very early work by him. The rest of the series is by the brothers Piero and Antonio del Pollaiuolo, including Sts Vincent, James and Eustace, one of their best works. It’s in the merged rooms 10–14 that the ﬁnest of Botticelli’s productions are gathered, most notably the Primavera and the Birth of Venus. The identities of the characters in the Primavera are clear enough: on the right Zephyrus, god of the west wind, chases the nymph Cloris, who is then transﬁgured into Flora, the pregnant goddess of spring; Venus stands in the centre, to the side of the three Graces, who are targeted by Cupid; on the left Mercury wards off the clouds of winter. What this all means, however, has occupied scholars for decades, but the consensus seems to be that it shows the triumph of Venus, with the Graces as the physical embodiment of her beauty and Flora the symbol of her fruitfulness. Botticelli’s most alluring painting, the Birth of Venus, probably takes as its source the myth that the goddess emerged from the sea after it had been impregnated by the castration of Uranus, an allegory for the creation of beauty through the mingling of the spirit (Uranus) and the physical world. Botticelli’s devotional paintings are generally less perplexing. The Adoration of the Magi is traditionally thought to contain a gallery of Medici portraits: Cosimo il Vecchio as the ﬁrst king, his sons Giovanni and Piero as the other two kings, Lorenzo the Magniﬁcent on the far left, and his brother Giuliano as the blackhaired young man in proﬁle on the right. Only the identiﬁcation of Cosimo is reasonably certain, along with that of Botticelli himself, on the right in the yellow robe. In later life, inﬂuenced by Savonarola’s teaching, Botticelli conﬁned himself to devotional pictures and moral fables, and his style became increasingly severe and didactic. The transformation is clear when comparing the easy grace of the Madonna of the Magniﬁcat and the Madonna of the Pomegranate with the more rigidly composed Pala di Sant’Ambrogio or the angular and agitated Calumny. Not quite every masterpiece in this room is by Botticelli. Set away from the walls is the Adoration of the Shepherds by his Flemish contemporary Hugo van der Goes. Brought to Florence in 1483 by Tommaso Portinari, the Medici agent in Bruges, it provided the city’s artists with their ﬁrst large-scale demonstration of

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The Pollaiuolo brothers and Botticelli

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Room 7 reveals the sheer diversity of early Renaissance painting. Fra’ Angelico’s gorgeous Coronation of the Virgin takes place against a Gothic-like ﬁeld of gold, but there’s a very un-Gothic sensibility at work in its individualized depiction of the attendant throng. Paolo Uccello’s The Battle of San Romano once hung in Lorenzo il Magniﬁco’s bedchamber, in company with its two companion pieces now in the Louvre and London’s National Gallery. The Madonna and Child with Sts Francis, John the Baptist, Zenobius and Lucy is one of only twelve extant paintings by Domenico Veneziano, whose greatest pupil, Piero della Francesca, is represented in Room 8 by the paired portraits of Federico da Montefeltro and Battista Sforza, the duke and duchess of Urbino. Much of this room is given over to Fra’ Filippo Lippi, whose Madonna and Child with Two Angels is one of the gallery’s most popular faces: the model was Lucrezia Buti, a convent novice who became the object of one of his more enduring sexual obsessions. Lucrezia puts in another appearance in Lippi’s crowded Coronation of the Virgin, where she’s the young woman gazing out in the right foreground; Filippo himself, hand on chin, makes eye contact on the left side of the picture. Their liaison produced a son, the aptly named Filippino “Little Philip” Lippi, whose Otto Altarpiece – one of several works by him here – is typical of the more melancholic cast of the younger Lippi’s art.

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the realism of Northern European oil painting, and had a great inﬂuence on the way the medium was exploited here. Leonardo to Mantegna

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Works in Room 15 trace the formative years of Leonardo da Vinci, whose distinctive touch appears ﬁrst in the Baptism of Christ by his master Verrocchio: the wistful angel in proﬁle is by the 18-year-old apprentice, as is the misty landscape in the background, and Leonardo also worked heavily on the ﬁgure of Christ. A similar terrain of soft-focus mountains and water occupies the far distance in Leonardo’s slightly later Annunciation, in which a diffused light falls on a scene where everything is observed with a scientist’s precision. In contrast to the poise of the Annunciation, the sketch of The Adoration of the Magi – abandoned when Leonardo left Florence for Milan in early 1482 – presents the infant Christ as the eye of a vortex of ﬁgures, all drawn into his presence by a force as irresistible as a whirlpool. Most of the rest of the room is given over to Raphael’s teacher, Perugino. Room 18, the octagonal Tribuna, houses the most important of the Medici’s collection of classical sculptures – in particular, the Medici Venus – but also some fascinating portraits by Bronzino, painted like ﬁgures of porcelain, and Andrea del Sarto’s ﬂirtatious Portrait of a Young Woman. The last section of this wing throws together Renaissance paintings from outside Florence. Signorelli and Perugino – with some photo-sharp portraits – are the principal artists in Room 19, and after them comes a room devoted to Cranach, Dürer and other German artists. A taste of the Uffizi’s remarkable collection of Venetian painting follows, with an impenetrable Sacred Allegory by Giovanni Bellini, and three works attributed to Giorgione. In Room 22, a clutch of Northern European paintings includes some superb portraits by Holbein (notably Sir Richard Southwell and a self-portrait) and Hans Memling. In the following room – called the Correggio room, after the trio of pictures by him on show here – there’s a clutch of exquisite small paintings by Mantegna, including the Madonna of the Caves; note the minuscule ﬁgures at work in the quarry in the background. Michelangelo, Mannerism and Titian

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Beyond the stockpile of statues in the short corridor overlooking the Arno, the main attraction in Room 25 is Michelangelo’s Doni Tondo, the only easel painting he came close to completing. The adjoining room contains Andrea del Sarto’s sultry Madonna of the Harpies and a number of compositions by Raphael, including his self-portrait, the lovely Madonna of the Goldﬁnch and Pope Leo X with Cardinals Giulio de’ Medici and Luigi de’ Rossi. The Michelangelo tondo’s contorted gestures and virulent colours were greatly inﬂuential on the Mannerist painters of the sixteenth century, as can be gauged from Moses Defending the Daughters of Jethro by Rosso Fiorentino, one of the seminal ﬁgures of the movement, whose works hang in Room 27, along with major works by Bronzino and his adoptive father, Pontormo. Room 28 is almost entirely given over to another of the titanic ﬁgures of sixteenth-century art, Titian, with ten paintings on show. His Flora and A Knight of Malta are stunning, but most eyes tend to swivel towards the Urbino Venus, the most provocative of all Renaissance nudes, described by Mark Twain as “the foulest, the vilest, the obscenest picture the world possesses”. A brief diversion through the painters of the sixteenth-century Emilian school follows, centred on Parmigianino, whose Madonna of the Long Neck is one of the pivotal Mannerist creations. Rooms 31 to 34 feature a miscellany of sixteenth-century artists (look out for the El Greco) and some top-class works from Venice and the Veneto, including

The Corridoio Vasariano A door on the west corridor, between rooms 25 and 34, opens onto the Corridoio Vasariano, a passageway built by Vasari in 1565 to link the Palazzo Vecchio to the Palazzo Pitti, via the Ufﬁzi. Winding its way down to the river, over the Ponte Vecchio, through the church of Santa Felìcita and into the Giardino di Bóboli, it gives a fascinating series of clandestine views of the city, and is also lined with paintings, the larger portion of which comprises a gallery of self-portraits, featuring such greats as Andrea del Sarto, Bernini, Rubens, Velázquez, David, Delacroix and Ingres. The corridor is currently open for private tours on request (T055.294.833, Eﬁ[email protected]), but is expected to close for restoration imminently, with the best of the paintings likely to move to the extended Ufﬁzi galleries. For the latest situation, ask at one of the tourist ofﬁces.

The seventeenth and eighteenth centuries

The Bargello

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The Uffizi’s collection of seventeenth-century art is in rooms 41–45. Room 41 features strong work from Van Dyck and Rubens, whose Portrait of Isabella Brandt is perhaps his ﬁnest painting here. The most overwhelming, however, are the huge Henry IV at the Battle of Ivry and The Triumphal Entry of Henry IV into Paris – Henry’s marriage to Marie de’ Medici is the connection with Florence. This pair are displayed in the majestic Neoclassical Niobe Room. In this section of the gallery you’ll also see some superb portraits by Rembrandt, Goya and Chardin. The rooms downstairs are used for temporary exhibitions and as a showcase for Italian art of the seventeenth century. Dramatic images from Salvator Rosa, Luca Giordano and Artemisia Gentileschi make quite an impression, but the presiding genius is Caravaggio, with his bravura Medusa (painted on a shield), the smug little Bacchus, and the throat-grabbing Sacriﬁce of Isaac.

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Moroni’s Portrait of Count Pietro Secco Suardi, Paolo Veronese’s Annunciation and Holy Family with St Barbara, and a gathering of ﬁne pieces by Lorenzo Lotto.

The Museo Nazionale del Bargello (Tues–Sat 8.15am–5pm, 2nd & 4th Sun of month and 1st, 3rd & 5th Mon of month same hours, longer hours and higher charge for special exhibitions; €4), which is both an outstanding museum of sculpture and a huge applied-art collection, is installed in the daunting Palazzo del Bargello on Via del Proconsolo, halfway between the Duomo and the Palazzo Vecchio. The palazzo was built in 1255, and soon became the seat of the Podestà, the chief magistrate. Numerous malefactors were tried, sentenced and executed here and the building acquired its present name in the sixteenth century, after the resident bargello, or police chief. The courtyard and ground ﬂoor

From the ticket desk, you enter the beautiful Gothic courtyard, which is plastered with the coats of arms of the Podestà and contains, among many other pieces, six allegorical ﬁgures by Ammanati. At the foot of the courtyard steps is the Michelangelo Room, containing his ﬁrst major sculpture, a tipsy, soft-bellied ﬁgure of Bacchus, carved at the age of 22 – a year before his great Pietà in Rome. Michelangelo’s style soon evolved into something less ostentatiously virtuosic, as is shown by the tender Tondo Pitti, while the rugged expressivity of his late manner is exempliﬁed by the square-jawed Bust of Brutus. Works by Michelangelo’s followers and contemporaries are ranged in the immediate vicinity – Cellini’s Bust of Cosimo I and Giambologna’s famous Mercury are the best of them.

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The upper ﬂoors

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At the top of the courtyard staircase, the loggia has been turned into an aviary for Giambologna’s bronze birds, brought here from the Medici villa at Castello. In the adjacent Salone di Donatello, vestiges of the artist’s sinuous Gothic manner are evident in the drapery of his marble David, placed against the left wall, but there’s nothing antiquated in the alert, tense St George, carved just eight years later for the tabernacle of the armourers’ guild at Orsanmichele and installed here in a replica of its original niche. In front stands Donatello’s sexually ambiguous bronze David, cast around 1435, as the ﬁrst freestanding nude ﬁgure since classical times. His strange, jubilant ﬁgure known as Love/Attis dates from around 1440, while his breathtakingly vivid bust of Niccolò da Uzzano shows that he was just as comfortable with portraiture. The less complex humanism of Luca della Robbia is embodied in the glazed terracotta Madonnas set round the walls, while Donatello’s master, Ghiberti, is represented by his relief The Sacriﬁce of Isaac, his successful entry in the competition for the Baptistry doors. The treatment of the same theme submitted by Brunelleschi is displayed nearby. Most of the rest of this ﬂoor is occupied by a collection of European and Islamic applied art, of so high a standard that it would constitute an engrossing museum in its own right. Elsewhere on this ﬂoor is dazzling carved ivory from Byzantium and medieval France. The sculptural display resumes on the next ﬂoor up, where you’ll ﬁnd superb work by the della Robbia family, Italy’s best assembly of small Renaissance bronzes (with plentiful evidence of Giambologna’s virtuosity at table-top scale) and two rooms devoted mainly to Renaissance busts, including magniﬁcent portraits by Verrocchio, Francesco Laurana and Mino da Fiesole. The Museo di Storia della Scienza

Long after Florence had declined from its artistic apogee, the intellectual reputation of the city was maintained by its scientists. Grand Duke Ferdinando II and his brother Leopoldo, both of whom studied with Galileo, founded the Accademia del Cimento (Academy of Experiment) in 1657, and the instruments made and acquired by this academy form the core of the excellent Museo di Storia della Scienza (Mon & Wed–Fri 9.30am–5pm, Tues & Sat 9.30am–1pm; €4), close to the river, on Piazza dei Giudici. The ﬁrst ﬂoor features timepieces and measuring instruments (such as beautiful Arab astrolabes), as well as a massive armillary sphere made for Ferdinando I to prove the fallacy of Copernicus’s heliocentric universe. Some of Galileo’s original instruments are on show here, including the lens with which he discovered the four moons of Jupiter. On the ﬂoor above there are all kinds of exquisitely manufactured scientiﬁc and mechanical equipment, several of which were built to demonstrate the fundamental laws of physics. Dozens of clocks and timepieces are on show too, while the medical section is full of alarming surgical instruments and wax anatomical models for teaching obstetrics.

The western city centre Several streets in central Florence retain their medieval character, especially in the district immediately to the west of Piazza della Signoria. Forming a gateway to this quarter is the Mercato Nuovo (daily 9am–7.30pm), whose souvenir stalls are the busiest in the city. Usually a small group is gathered round the bronze boar known as Il Porcellino, trying to gain some good luck by getting a coin to fall from the animal’s mouth through the grill below his head. 438

Museo di Palazzo Davanzati

Perhaps the most imposing exterior in this district is to be seen just to the south of the market – the thirteenth-century Palazzo di Parte Guelfa, ﬁnanced from the

Via Porta Rossa culminates at Piazza Santa Trìnita, close to the city’s most stylish bridge, the Ponte Santa Trìnita, which was rebuilt stone by stone after the retreating Nazis had blown up the original in 1944. Santa Trìnita church (Mon– Sat 8am–noon & 4–6pm, Sun 4–6pm; free) was founded in the eleventh century, but piecemeal additions have lent it a pleasantly hybrid air: the largely Gothic interior contrasts with Buontalenti’s Mannerist facade of 1594. The interior is notable above all for Ghirlandaio’s frescoes of the Life of St Francis in the Cappella Sassetti – as notable for their depiction of ﬁfteenth-century Florence as for their ostensible subjects, they feature portraits of various Medici. Heading north from Santa Trìnita is Via de’ Tornabuoni, home to Cartier, Versace, Armani and the famous local ﬁrms Ferragamo, Cavalli and Pucci. Conspicuous wealth is nothing new here, for looming above everything is the vast Palazzo Strozzi, the last, the largest and the least subtle of Florentine Renaissance palaces. Filippo Strozzi bought and demolished a dozen townhouses to make space for Giuliano da Sangallo’s design (1536). Part of the building is now used for exhibitions. The church of San Pancrazio, nearby on Via della Spada, has been converted into the slick Museo Marino Marini (10am–5pm; closed Tues, Sun & Aug; €4), a spacious showcase for the work of one of Italy’s foremost twentieth-century sculptors.

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Santa Trìnita and around

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conﬁscated property of the Ghibelline faction and later expanded by Brunelleschi. However, for a more complete re-creation of medieval Florence you should visit the fourteenth-century Palazzo Davanzati in Via Porta Rossa, whose impressive restoration was ﬁnished in 2009. Now the Museo di Palazzo Davanzati (Tues–Sat 8.15am–1.50pm, 1st, 3rd & 5th Sun of month and 2nd & 4th Mon of month same hours; €2), the house is decorated in predominantly medieval style, using furniture from the fourteenth to the nineteenth centuries gathered from various Florentine museums, most notably the Bargello. Visitors have unrestricted access to the ﬁrst ﬂoor but visits to the second and third ﬂoors are at set hours (10am, 11am & noon) and must be booked in advance in person or by phone (T 055.238.8610). The coat of arms of the wealthy Davanzati family, who occupied the house from 1578 until 1838, is still visible on the facade, and you can admire their impressive family tree in the entrance hall. Upstairs are several frescoed rooms – the Sala dei Pappagalli (Parrot Room) and the Camera dei Pavoni (Peacock Bedroom) are particularly splendid – as well as some interesting reconstructions of day-to-day life in the house, with chests full of linen in the bedrooms and a clutter of household utensils, tools, looms and spinning wheels in the third-ﬂoor kitchen. There are also ﬁne collections of lacework and ceramics on the ﬁrst ﬂoor.

Ognissanti

In medieval times a major area of cloth production – the foundation of the Florentine economy – lay in the west of the city, in the parish of Ognissanti (daily 7am–12.30pm & 4–8pm; free), located on Borgo Ognissanti, ﬁve minutes’ walk west of Via de’ Tornabuoni. The Baroque facade, added in the sixteenth century when Ognissanti became a Franciscan church, is not very interesting, but the interior is a different matter. The young face squeezed between the Madonna and the darkcloaked man in Ghirlandaio’s Madonna della Misericordia fresco, over the second altar on the right, is said to be that of Amerigo Vespucci – later to set sail on voyages that would give his name to America. Just beyond this, on opposite sides of the nave, are mounted Botticelli’s St Augustine and Ghirlandaio’s St Jerome, both painted in 1480. In the same year Ghirlandaio painted the bucolic Last Supper that covers one wall of the refectory, reached through the cloister entered to the left of the church (March–June Thurs–Tues 9am–5pm; rest of year Mon, Tues & Sat 9am–noon; free).

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Santa Maria Novella

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The focus of the western city centre is Piazza Santa Maria Novella, a large piazza, recently given a major overhaul. The marble facade designed by Alberti for the Dominican church of Santa Maria Novella (Mon–Thurs 9am–5.30pm, Fri 11am–5.30pm, Sat 9am–5pm, Sun 1–5pm; €3.50) is one of the most attractive in the city, and the interior – which was designed to enable preachers to address their sermons to as large a congregation as possible – is ﬁlled with masterworks, not least Masaccio’s extraordinary 1427 fresco of The Trinity (left aisle), one of the earliest works in which perspective and classical proportion were rigorously employed. Nearby, Giotto’s Cruciﬁx, a radically naturalistic and probably very early work (c.1288–90), hangs in what is thought to be its intended position, poised dramatically over the nave. Filippino Lippi’s frescoes for the Cappella di Filippo Strozzi (immediately to the right of the chancel) are a fantasy vision of classical ruins in which the narrative often seems to take second place, and one of the ﬁrst examples of an archeological interest in Roman culture. As a chronicle of ﬁfteenthcentury life in Florence, no series of frescoes is more fascinating than Domenico Ghirlandaio’s behind the high altar; the cycle was commissioned by Giovanni Tornabuoni – which explains why certain ladies of the Tornabuoni family are present at the birth of John the Baptist and of the Virgin. Brunelleschi’s Cruciﬁx, popularly supposed to have been carved as a response to Donatello’s uncouth version at Santa Croce, hangs in the Cappella Gondi, left of the chancel. At the end of the left transept is the raised Cappella Strozzi, whose faded frescoes by Nardo di Cione (1350s) include an entire wall of visual commentary on Dante’s Inferno. The magniﬁcent altarpiece by Nardo’s brother Andrea (better known as Orcagna) is a piece of propaganda for the Dominicans – Christ is shown bestowing favour simultaneously on St Peter and St Thomas Aquinas, a ﬁgure second only to St Dominic in the order’s hierarchy. The Museo di Santa Maria Novella

More remarkable paintings are on display in the spacious Romanesque conventual buildings to the left of the church, now the Museo di Santa Maria Novella (Mon–Thurs & Sat 9am–5pm, public hols 9am–2pm; €2.70). You enter into the Chiostro Verde, which features Stories from Genesis by Paolo Uccello and his workshop. Leading off from this cloister is the Cappellone degli Spagnuoli (Spanish Chapel), which received its new name after Eleanor of Toledo reserved it for the use of her Spanish entourage. Its fresco cycle by Andrea di Firenze, an extended depiction of the triumph of the Catholic Church, was described by Ruskin as “the most noble piece of pictorial philosophy in Italy”. The left wall depicts the Triumph of Divine Wisdom: Thomas Aquinas is enthroned below the Virgin and Apostles amid winged Virtues and biblical notables. The more spectacular right wall depicts the Triumph of the Church, and includes Florence’s cathedral, imagined eighty years before its actual completion. The Museo Nazionale Alinari Fotograﬁa

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Facing Santa Maria Novella across the piazza, the Loggia di San Paolo – a close imitation of Brunelleschi’s Spedale degli Innocenti – is home to the Museo Nazionale Alinari Fotograﬁa (Mon & Thurs 3–7pm, Tues 10am–3pm, Fri–Sun 10am–7pm; €9, €6 on Mon). Part of the museum is set aside for one-off photography exhibitions, but most of the space is given over to changing displays drawn from Alinari’s archive of more than four million pictures, covering everything from 1840s daguerreotypes to the work of present-day photographers. The technology of the art is featured too, with a variety of cameras on show, plus stereoscopes and camera obscuras.

The northern city centre The busy quarter north of the Duomo and east of the train station is focused on Florence’s main food market, the vast Mercato Centrale ( July & Aug Mon–Sat 7am–2am; Sept–June Mon–Fri 7am–2pm, Sat 7am–5pm). Butchers, alimentari, tripe sellers, greengrocers, pasta stalls and bars are all gathered under one roof, charging prices lower than you’ll ﬁnd elsewhere. All around is a hectic street market (daily 8.30am–7pm), thronged with stalls selling leather bags, belts, clothes and shoes. San Lorenzo

A gateway to the left of the church facade leads to the Biblioteca MediceaLaurenziana (Mon–Sat 9am–1pm; €3). Wishing to create a suitably grandiose home for the precious manuscripts assembled by Cosimo and Lorenzo de’ Medici, Pope Clement VII – Lorenzo’s nephew – asked Michelangelo to design a new library in 1524. His Ricetto, or vestibule (1559–71), is a revolutionary showpiece of Mannerist architecture, delighting in paradoxical display: brackets that support nothing, columns that sink into the walls rather than stand out from them, and a ﬂight of steps so large that it almost ﬁlls the room. From this eccentric space, you’re sometimes allowed into the tranquil reading room; here, too, almost everything is the work of Michelangelo, even the inlaid desks.

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The Biblioteca Medicea-Laurenziana

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Founded in the fourth century, San Lorenzo (daily 10am–5.30pm; March–Oct closes at 1.30pm on Sun; €3.50) has a claim to be the oldest church in Florence – though the current building dates from the 1420s – and was the city’s cathedral for almost three centuries. Although Michelangelo sweated to produce a scheme for San Lorenzo’s facade, the bare brick of the exterior has never been clad; it’s a stark, inappropriate prelude to the powerful simplicity of Brunelleschi’s interior, one of the earliest Renaissance church designs. Inside are two amazing bronze pulpits by Donatello. Covered in densely populated reliefs, chieﬂy of scenes preceding and following the Cruciﬁxion, these are the artist’s last works and were completed by his pupils. Close by, at the foot of the altar steps, a large disc of multicoloured marble marks the grave of Cosimo il Vecchio, the artist’s main patron. Further pieces by Donatello (who is buried here) adorn the beautiful Sagrestia Vecchia, off the left transept.

The Cappelle Medicee

Some of Michelangelo’s most celebrated works are in San Lorenzo’s Sagrestia Nuova, part of the Cappelle Medicee (Tues–Sat 8.15am–4.50pm, 1st, 3rd & 5th Sun of month and 2nd & 4th Mon of month same hours; €6). The entrance to the chapels is round the back of San Lorenzo, on Piazza Madonna degli Aldobrandini, and leads directly into the low-vaulted crypt, last resting-place of a clutch of minor Medici. After ﬁling through the crypt, you climb into the Cappella dei Principi (Chapel of the Princes), a gloomy, stone-plated octagonal hall built as a mausoleum for Cosimo I and his ancestors. Morbid and dowdy, it was the most expensive building project ever ﬁnanced by the family. A corridor leads to the Sagrestia Nuova, begun by Michelangelo in 1520 and intended as a tribute to, and subversion of, Brunelleschi’s Sagrestia Vecchia in San Lorenzo. Architectural connoisseurs go into raptures over the complex alcoves and other such sophistications, but you might be more drawn to the fabulous Medici tombs, carved by Michelangelo. To the left is the tomb of Lorenzo, Duke of Urbino, grandson of Lorenzo il Magniﬁco. Opposite is the tomb of Giuliano, Duke of Nemours, youngest son of Lorenzo il Magniﬁco. Their effigies were intended to

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face the equally grand tombs of Lorenzo il Magniﬁco and his brother Giuliano, two Medici who had genuine claims to fame and honour, but the only part of the project realized by Michelangelo is the serene Madonna and Child, the last image of the Madonna he ever sculpted and one of the most affecting, now ﬂanked by Cosmas and Damian, patron saints of doctors (medici) and thus of the dynasty. The Palazzo Medici-Riccardi

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On the northeastern edge of Piazza San Lorenzo stands the Palazzo MediciRiccardi (9am–7pm; closed Wed; €7), built by Michelozzo in the 1440s for Cosimo il Vecchio and for more than a century the principal seat of the Medici. With its heavily rusticated exterior, this mighty palace was the prototype for such houses as the Palazzo Pitti and Palazzo Strozzi, but was greatly altered in the seventeenth century by its new owners, the Riccardi family, who took over after Cosimo I moved out. Of Michelozzo’s original scheme, only the courtyard and upstairs chapel remain intact. The chapel’s interior is covered by brilliantly colourful and wonderfully detailed frescoes of The Procession of the Magi, painted around 1460 by Benozzo Gozzoli. Only ten people are allowed to view these paintings at any one time, with viewings every ﬁve minutes, so the queues can be long. After the chapel, you visit the Riccardi apartments, including the sumptuous Sala di Carlo VIII and, further on, the Sala di Luca Giordano, a gilded and mirrored gallery notable for Luca Giordano’s overblown ceiling fresco, The Apotheosis of the Medici, showing Cosimo III with his son, Gian Gastone (d. 1737), the last male Medici. In a nearby room is Fra’ Filippo Lippi’s Madonna and Child. Off the courtyard, the Museo dei Marmi holds the Riccardi’s sculpture collection, and a multimedia room explains the history of the chapel frescoes. The Accademia

Europe’s ﬁrst academy of drawing was founded northeast of San Lorenzo on Via Ricasoli in the mid-sixteenth century by Bronzino, Ammanati and Vasari. In 1784, Grand Duke Pietro Leopoldo opened the adjoining Galleria dell’Accademia (Tues–Sun 8.15am–6.50pm; €6.50), which has an impressive collection of paintings, especially of Florentine altarpieces from the fourteenth to the early sixteenth centuries. What pulls the crowds, however, is one of the most famous sculptures in the world: Michelangelo’s David. Commissioned by the Opera del Duomo in 1501, David was conceived to invoke parallels with Florence’s freedom from outside domination (despite the superior force of its enemies), and its recent liberation from Savonarola and the Medici. It’s an incomparable show of technical bravura, all the more impressive given the difficulties posed by the marble from which it was carved. The four-metre block of stone – thin, shallow and riddled with cracks – had been quarried from Carrara forty years earlier. Several artists had already attempted to work with it, notably Agostino di Duccio, Andrea Sansovino and Leonardo da Vinci. Michelangelo succeeded where others had failed, completing the work in 1504 when he was still just 29. When they gave Michelangelo his commission, the Opera del Duomo had in mind a large statue that would be placed high on the cathedral’s facade. Perhaps because the ﬁnished David was even larger than had been envisaged, it was decided that it should be placed instead at ground level, in the Piazza della Signoria. The statue remained in its outdoor setting, exposed to the elements, until it was sent to the Accademia in 1873, by which time it had lost its gilded hair and the gilded band across its chest. David now occupies a specially built alcove, protected by a glass barrier that was built in 1991, after one of its toes was cracked by a hammerwielding artist. With its massive head and gangling arms, David looks to some

people like a monstrous adolescent, but its proportions would not have appeared so graceless in the setting for which it was ﬁrst conceived, at a rather higher altitude and at a greater distance from the public than the position it occupies in this chapel-like space. Michelangelo once described the process of sculpting as being the liberation of the form from within the stone, a notion that seems to be embodied by the unﬁnished Slaves that line the approach to David. His procedure, clearly demonstrated here, was to cut the ﬁgure as if it were a deep relief, and then to free the three-dimensional ﬁgure; often his assistants would perform the initial operation, working from the master’s pencil marks, so it’s possible that Michelangelo’s own chisel never actually touched these stones. Carved in the 1520s and 1530s, these powerful creations were intended for the tomb of Pope Julius II, but in 1564 the artist’s nephew gave them to the Medici, who installed them in the grotto of the Bóboli gardens.

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A whole side of Piazza San Marco is taken up by the Dominican convent and church of San Marco, the ﬁrst of which is now the Museo di San Marco (Tues–Fri 8.15am–1.50pm, Sat 8.15am–4.50pm; also 2nd & 4th Sun of month 8.15am– 4.50pm, 1st, 3rd & 5th Mon of month 8.15am–1.50pm; €4). In the 1430s, the convent was the recipient of Cosimo il Vecchio’s most lavish patronage: he ﬁnanced Michelozzo’s enlargement of the buildings, and went on to establish a vast public library here. Ironically, the convent became the centre of resistance to the Medici later in the century – Savonarola was prior of San Marco from 1491. Meanwhile, as Michelozzo was altering and expanding the convent, its walls were being decorated by one of its friars, Fra’ Angelico, a painter in whom a medieval simplicity of faith was allied to a Renaissance sophistication of manner. The Ospizio dei Pellegrini (Pilgrims’ Hospice) contains around twenty paintings by Fra’ Angelico, most brought here from other churches in Florence, but the most celebrated work is the glorious Annunciation at the summit of the main staircase. All round this upper ﬂoor are ranged 44 tiny dormitory cells, each frescoed either by Angelico himself or by his assistants. The church of San Marco is worth a visit for two works on the second and third altars on the right: a Madonna and Saints, painted in 1509 by Fra’ Bartolommeo (like Fra’ Angelico, a friar at the convent), and an eighth-century mosaic called The Madonna in Prayer, brought here from Constantinople.

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The Museo di San Marco

Piazza Santissima Annunziata

To the east of San Marco lies the handsome Piazza Santissima Annunziata, whose tone is set by Brunelleschi’s Spedale degli Innocenti (daily 10am–7pm; €4), which opened in 1445 as the ﬁrst foundlings’ hospital in Europe and still incorporates an orphanage – Luca della Robbia’s ceramic tondi of swaddled babies advertise the building’s function. The convent, centred on two beautiful cloisters, now also contains a miscellany of Florentine Renaissance art including one of Luca della Robbia’s most charming Madonnas and an incident-packed Adoration of the Magi by Ghirlandaio. The church of Santissima Annunziata (daily 7am–12.30pm & 4–6.30pm, Sun also 8.45–9.45pm) is the mother church of the Servite order, which was founded by seven Florentine aristocrats in 1234. Its dedication took place in the fourteenth century, in recognition of a miraculous image of the Virgin which, left unﬁnished by the monastic artist, was purportedly completed by an angel. It attracted so many pilgrims that the Medici commissioned Michelozzo to rebuild the church in the second half of the ﬁfteenth century in order to accommodate them. In the

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Chiostro dei Voti, the atrium that Michelozzo built onto the church, are some beautiful frescoes mainly painted in the 1510s, including a Visitation by Pontormo and a series by Andrea del Sarto. The adjoining Chiostro dei Morti, entered from the left transept, is worth visiting for Andrea del Sarto’s Madonna del Sacco, painted over the door. The Museo Archeologico

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On the other side of Via della Colonna from Santissima Annunziata, the Museo Archeologico (Tues–Fri 8.30am–7pm, Sat & Sun 8.30am–2pm; €4) houses the ﬁnest collection of its kind in northern Italy, but struggles to draw visitors for whom the Renaissance is the beginning and the end of Florence’s appeal. Longoverdue renovation works are scheduled to begin in 2011, so you can anticipate some disruption. The museum’s special strength is its Etruscan collection (much of it bequeathed by the Medici), which features two outstanding bronze sculptures – the Arringatore (Orator) and the Chimera, a triple-headed monster made in the fourth century BC. The Egyptian collection is mostly displayed in an uninspiring manner, but a recent renovation has vastly improved the top ﬂoor, where the primary focus is on the Greek and Roman collections. The star piece in the huge hoard of Greek vases is the large François Vase, a sixth-century-BC krater discovered in an Etruscan tomb near Chiusi in 1844. Other attention-grabbing items are the life-size bronze torso known as the Torso di Livorno, a large horse’s head that was once a feature of the garden of the Palazzo Medici, two beautiful sixth-century-BC Greek kouroi, and the bronze statue of a young man known as the Idilono di Pésaro, generally thought to be a Roman replica of a Greek ﬁgure dating from around 100 BC.

The eastern city centre The Santa Croce district – the hub of the eastern part of central Florence – was one of Florence’s more densely populated areas before November 4, 1966, when the Arno burst its banks, with catastrophic consequences for this low-lying zone, which was then packed with tenements and small workshops. Many residents moved out permanently in the following years, but now the more traditional businesses that survived the ﬂood have been joined by a growing number of bars and restaurants. Piazza Santa Croce, one of the city’s largest squares, has traditionally been used for ceremonies and festivities, and is still used for the Calcio Storico, a football tournament between the city’s four quartieri. The contest is held in June, with the ﬁnal on June 24, and is characterized by incomprehensible rules and a degree of violence so extreme that the 2006 and 2007 events were called off. Santa Croce

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Florence’s two most lavish churches after the Duomo were the headquarters of the two preaching orders: the Dominicans occupied Santa Maria Novella, while the Franciscans were based at Santa Croce (Mon–Sat 9.30am–5.30pm, Sun 1–5.30pm; €5, €8 joint ticket with the Casa Buonarroti, valid for 1 day), which also evolved into the mausoleum of Tuscany’s most eminent citizens. More than 270 monuments are to be found here, commemorating the likes of Ghiberti, Michelangelo, Alberti, Machiavelli, Galileo and Dante – although Dante was actually buried in Ravenna, where he died. The tombs are not the principal attraction of Santa Croce, however. Far more remarkable are the dazzling chapels at the east end, a compendium of Florentine fourteenth-century art, showing the extent of Giotto’s inﬂuence and the

full diversity of his followers. The two immediately to the right of the chancel are covered with frescoes by Giotto: beside the chancel is the Cappella Bardi, featuring scenes from the life of St Francis, while next to it is the Cappella Peruzzi with a cycle on the lives of St John the Baptist and John the Evangelist. On the south side of the right transept is the Cappella Baroncelli, featuring the ﬁrst night-scene in Western painting, Taddeo Gaddi’s Annunciation to the Shepherds. On the north side of the left transept, the second Cappella Bardi houses a wooden Cruciﬁx by Donatello – supposedly criticized by Brunelleschi as resembling a “peasant on the Cross”. The Cappella dei Pazzi and Museo dell’Opera di Santa Croce

The Casa Buonarroti, located north of Santa Croce at Via Ghibellina 70 (Wed– Mon 9.30am–2pm; €6.50, €8 joint ticket with Santa Croce, valid for 1 day), occupies a site where Michelangelo probably lived intermittently between 1516 and 1525, and contains a smart but low-key museum, mostly consisting of works created in homage to the great man. The two main treasures are to be found upstairs: the Madonna della Scala (c.1490–92) is Michelangelo’s earliest known work, a delicate relief carved when he was no older than 16; the similarly unﬁnished Battle of the Centaurs was created shortly afterwards, when the boy was living in the Medici household. In an adjacent room you’ll ﬁnd the artist’s wooden model (1517) for the facade of San Lorenzo. Close by is the largest of all the sculptural models on display, the torso of a River God (1524), a work in wood and wax probably intended for the Medici chapel in San Lorenzo.

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Casa Buonarroti

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The door in the south aisle opens onto the Primo Chiostro (First Cloister), at the head of which stands Brunelleschi’s Cappella dei Pazzi. If one building could be said to typify the spirit of the early Renaissance, this is it: geometrically perfect without seeming pedantic, it’s exemplary in the way its decorative detail harmonizes with the design. The polychrome lining of the portico’s shallow cupola is by Luca della Robbia, as is the tondo of St Andrew over the door; inside, Della Robbia also produced the blue-and-white tondi of the Apostles. Santa Croce’s spacious Secondo Chiostro was also designed by Brunelleschi, and is perhaps the most peaceful spot in the centre of Florence. The Museo dell’Opera di Santa Croce, between the two cloisters, houses a damaged Cruciﬁxion by Cimabue on the right wall, which has become the emblem of the havoc caused by the 1966 ﬂood – six metres of ﬁlthy water surged into the church, tearing the artwork from its mounting. Also in this room are Taddeo Gaddi’s fresco of the Last Supper, Domenico Veneziano’s Sts John and Francis, and Donatello’s enormous gilded St Louis of Toulouse, made for Orsanmichele.

South of the river – the Oltrarno Visitors to Florence might perceive the Arno as merely a brief interruption in the urban fabric, but Florentines talk as though a ravine divides their city. North of the river is Arno di quà (“over here”), while the south side is Arno di là (“over there”), also known as the Oltrarno, literally “Beyond the Arno”. Traditionally an artisans’ quarter, the Oltrarno is still home to plenty of small workshops (particularly furniture restorers and leather-workers), and Via Maggio remains the focus of Florence’s thriving antiques trade. The ambience is distinctly less tourist-centred here than in the zone immediately across the water, which is not to say that the Oltrarno doesn’t have major sights – Palazzo Pitti, Santa Maria del Carmine, San Miniato and Santo Spirito are all essential visits.

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The Ponte Vecchio

The direct route from the city centre to the heart of Oltrarno crosses the river on the Ponte Vecchio, the only bridge not mined by the retreating Nazis in 1944. Built in 1345 to replace an ancient wooden bridge, it has always been loaded with shops. Up until the sixteenth century, butchers, ﬁshmongers and tanners occupied the bridge, but in 1593 Ferdinando I ejected these malodorous enterprises and installed goldsmiths instead. Today, still replete with jewellery ﬁrms, the bridge is crammed with sightseers and big-spending shoppers during the day, and remains busy after the shutters come down. Santa Felìcita

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Just over the bridge, off Via Guicciardini, Santa Felìcita (Mon–Sat 9.30am–noon & 3.30–5.30pm) might well be the oldest church in Florence. It’s thought to have been founded in the second century AD close to the Via Cassia, over an early Christian cemetery that’s commemorated by the column outside. The interior demands a visit for the amazing paintings by Pontormo in the Cappella Capponi. Under the cupola are four tondi of the Evangelists, painted with the help of Bronzino (his adoptive son), while on opposite sides of the window on the right wall are the Virgin and the angel of Pontormo’s delightfully simple Annunciation. The centerpiece is the Deposition (1525–28), one of the masterworks of Florentine Mannerism, in which there’s no sign of the cross, the thieves, soldiers or any of the other scene-setting devices usual in paintings of this subject. The Palazzo Pitti

Although the Medici later took possession of the largest palace in Florence – the Palazzo Pitti – it still bears the name of the man for whom it was built. Luca Pitti was a prominent rival of Cosimo il Vecchio, and much of the impetus behind the building of his new house came from a desire to trump the Medici. No sooner was the palace completed, however, than the Pittis’ fortunes began to decline and by 1549 they were forced to sell. The palace then became the Medici’s family pile, growing in bulk until the seventeenth century, when it achieved its present gargantuan dimensions. Today, the palazzo and the pavilions of the Giardino di Bóboli hold eight museums, of which the foremost is the huge art collection of the Galleria Palatina (Tues–Sun 8.15am–6.50pm; €12, including the Appartamenti Reali and Galleria d’Arte Moderna). Andrea del Sarto is represented by no fewer than seventeen paintings, but even more remarkable is the assembly of work by Raphael, including portraits of Angelo and Maddalena Doni, the celebrated Madonna della Seggiola, and the equally famous Donna Velata, for which the model was the painter’s mistress, a Roman baker’s daughter known to posterity as La Fornarina. An even larger contingent of supreme works by Titian includes a number of his most trenchant portraits – among them Pietro Aretino, Cardinal Ippolito de’ Medici, and the Portrait of an Englishman, a picture that makes the viewer feel as closely scrutinized as was the subject. Elsewhere in the Palatina you’ll ﬁnd masterpieces by Rubens, Fra’ Filippo Lippi and Caravaggio, to mention but a few. Much of the rest of this ﬂoor comprises the Appartamenti Reali – the Pitti’s state rooms, renovated by the dukes of Lorraine in the eighteenth century, and then again by King Vittorio Emanuele when Florence became Italy’s capital. On the ﬂoor above is the Galleria d’Arte Moderna (Tues–Sat 8.15am–6.50pm; same ticket). Displaying a chronological survey of primarily Tuscan art from the mid-eighteenth century to 1945, it’s most rewarding in the section devoted to the Macchiaioli, the Italian division of the Impressionist movement, though the most startling pieces are the specimens of sculptural kitsch, such as Antonio Ciseri’s

Pregnant Nun. Entered from the garden courtyard, the Museo degli Argenti (opens daily at 8.15am; March–May & Sept closes 6.30pm; Oct closes 5.30pm; June–Aug closes 7.30pm; Nov–Feb closes 4.30pm; closed 1st & last Mon of month; joint ticket with Museo delle Porcellane, Galleria del Costume, Giardino di Bóboli & Giardino Bardini €10) is a massive collection of portable (and often hideous) luxury artefacts, including Lorenzo il Magniﬁco’s trove of antique vases, displayed in one of the four splendidly frescoed reception rooms on the ground ﬂoor. Visitors without a specialist interest are unlikely to be riveted by the other Pitti museums. In the Palazzina della Meridiana, the eighteenth-century southern wing of the Pitti, the Galleria del Costume (same hours & ticket as Museo degli Argenti) provides the opportunity to see the dress that Eleonora di Toledo is wearing in Bronzino’s famous portrait of her (in the Palazzo Vecchio). The well-presented if esoteric collection of porcelain, the Museo delle Porcellane, is located on the other side of the Bóboli garden (same hours and ticket as Museo degli Argenti), while the Museo delle Carrozze (Carriage Museum) has been closed for years.

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The delightful formal garden of the Palazzo Pitti, the Giardino di Bóboli (same hours and ticket as Museo degli Argenti), takes its name from the Bóboli family, erstwhile owners of much of this area, which was once a quarry. When the Medici acquired the house in 1549 they set to work transforming their back yard into a 111-acre garden. Of all the garden’s Mannerist embellishments, the most celebrated is the Grotta del Buontalenti, beyond the turtle-back ﬁgure of Cosimo I’s court dwarf (as seen on a thousand postcards). In among the fake stalactites are shepherds and sheep that look like calciﬁed sponges, while embedded in the corners are replicas of Michelangelo’s Slaves, replacing the originals that were here until 1908. In the deepest recesses of the cave stands Giambologna’s Venus, leered at by attendant imps. A ﬁve-minute walk from the garden’s southeastern exit, the smaller, more manicured Giardino Bardini (same hours and ticket) has beautiful views over Florence’s rooftops from its colonnaded belvedere. The panorama is even better from the Forte di Belvedere, reachable from the same exit but currently closed for renovation. This star-shaped fortress was built on the orders of Ferdinando I in 1590, ostensibly for the city’s protection but really to intimidate the Grand Duke’s fellow Florentines, and is now an exhibition venue.

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The Giardino di Bóboli and Giardino Bardini

La Specola

Within a stone’s throw of the Pitti, on the third ﬂoor of the university buildings at Via Romana 17, you’ll ﬁnd what can reasonably claim to be the strangest museum in the city. Taking its name from the telescope (specola) on its roof, La Specola (Tues– Sun 9.30am–4.30pm; €6) is a museum of zoology, housing ranks of shells, insects and crustaceans, and a veritable ark of animals stuffed, pickled and desiccated. The exhibits everyone comes to see, however, are the Cere Anatomiche (Anatomical Waxworks): wax arms, legs and internal organs cover the walls, arrayed around satin beds on which wax cadavers recline in progressive stages of deconstruction, each muscle ﬁbre and nerve cluster moulded and dyed with scarcely believable precision. Most of the six hundred models – and nearly all of the amazing full-body mannequins – were made between 1775 and 1791 by one Clemente Susini and his team of assistants, and were intended as teaching aids. Santo Spirito

With its market stalls, cafés and restaurants, the lively Piazza Santo Spirito is the social hub of this quarter. Don’t be deterred by the vacant facade of the church of Santo Spirito (Thurs–Tues 8.30am–12.30pm & 4–7pm; free) – the interior,

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one of Brunelleschi’s last projects, prompted Bernini to describe it as “the most beautiful church in the world”. It’s so perfectly proportioned it seems artless, yet the plan is extremely sophisticated – a Latin cross with a continuous chain of 38 chapels round the outside and a line of 35 columns running in parallel right round the building. Unfortunately, a Baroque baldachin covers the high altar, but this is the sole disruption of Brunelleschi’s arrangement. The best of the church’s paintings is in the south transept – Filippino Lippi’s Nerli Altarpiece. The Cappella Brancacci

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In 1771 ﬁre wrecked the Carmelite convent and church of Santa Maria del Carmine some 300m west of Santo Spirito, but somehow the ﬂames did not damage the frescoes of the church’s Cappella Brancacci, a cycle of paintings that is one of the essential sights of Florence (Mon & Wed–Sat 10am–5pm, Sun 1–5pm; €4). The chapel is barricaded off from the rest of the Carmine, and visits are restricted to a maximum of thirty people at a time, for an inadequate ﬁfteen minutes. Tickets can currently be obtained only by reserving on T 055.276.8224 (daily 9am–5pm), at least a day in advance, though this may change; ask at the tourist office about the current situation. The decoration of the chapel was begun in 1424 by Masolino and Masaccio, when the former was aged 41 and the latter just 22. Within a short time the elder was taking lessons from the younger, whose grasp of the texture of the real world, of the principles of perspective, and of the dramatic potential of the biblical texts they were illustrating far exceeded that of his precursors. In 1428 Masolino was called away to Rome, where he was followed by Masaccio a few months later. Neither would return to the chapel. Masaccio died the same year, aged just 27, but, in the words of Vasari, “All the most celebrated sculptors and painters since Masaccio’s day have become excellent and illustrious by studying their art in this chapel.” The Brancacci frescoes are as startling as the Sistine Chapel in Rome, the brightness and delicacy of their colours and the solidity of the ﬁgures exemplifying what Bernard Berenson singled out as the tactile quality of Florentine art. The small scene on the left of the entrance arch is the quintessence of Masaccio’s art. Depictions of The Expulsion of Adam and Eve had never before captured the desolation of the sinners so graphically – Adam presses his hands to his face in bottomless despair, Eve raises her head and screams. In contrast to the emotional charge of Masaccio’s couple, Masolino’s dainty Adam and Eve, opposite, pose as if to have their portraits painted. St Peter is chief protagonist of most of the remaining scenes, some of which were left unﬁnished in 1428 – work did not resume until 1480, when the frescoes were completed by Filippino Lippi. One of the scenes ﬁnished by Lippi is the Raising of Theophilus’s Son and St Peter Enthroned, which depicts St Peter bringing the son of the Prefect of Antioch to life and then preaching to the people of the city from a throne. The three ﬁgures to the right of the throne are thought to be Masaccio, Alberti and Brunelleschi. Masaccio originally painted himself touching Peter’s robe, but Lippi considered such physical contact to be improper and painted out the offending limb – you can still see where the arm used to be. San Miniato al Monte

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The brilliant, multicoloured facade of San Miniato al Monte lures hordes of visitors up the hill on which it sits, and it more than fulﬁls the promise of its appearance from a distance: this is the ﬁnest Romanesque church in Tuscany. The church’s dedicatee, St Minias, belonged to a Christian community that settled in Florence in the third century; according to legend, after his martyrdom his corpse was seen to carry his severed head over the river and up the hill to this spot, where a shrine was

subsequently erected to him. Construction of the present building began in 1013 with the foundation of a Cluniac monastery. The gorgeous marble facade – alluding to the Baptistry in its geometrical patterning – was added towards the end of that century, though the external mosaic Christ between the Virgin and St Minias dates from the thirteenth. The interior (daily 8am–12.30pm & 3–5.30pm; free) is like no other in the city, with the choir raised on a platform above the large crypt. The main structural addition is the Cappella del Cardinale del Portogallo, a paragon of artistic collaboration: the basic design was by Antonio Manetti (a pupil of Brunelleschi), the tomb was carved by Antonio Rossellino, the terracotta decoration of the ceiling is by Luca della Robbia, and the paintings are by Alesso Baldovinetti, except for the altarpiece, which is a copy of a work by the Pollaiuolo brothers (the original is in the Uffizi). Be sure to also visit the sacristy, which is covered in Scenes from the Life of St Benedict, painted in the 1380s by Spinello Aretino.

Cafés, bars and gelaterie As elsewhere in Italy, the distinction between Florentine bars and cafés can be tricky to the point of impossibility, but there’s one category of bar that’s quite distinct from cafés, and that’s the enoteca, where the enjoyment of wine is the chief point of the exercise. However, almost all enotecas also serve food, and in some instances they’ve evolved into restaurants with huge wine lists.

Snacks For picnic supplies an obvious place to shop is the Mercato Centrale by San Lorenzo church (July & Aug Mon–Sat 7am–2pm; Sept–June Mon–Fri 7am–2pm, Sat 7am–5pm), where everything you could possibly need can be bought under one roof: bread, ham, cheese, fruit, wine, ready-made sandwiches. The Mercato Sant’Ambrogio over by Santa Croce (Mon–Sat 7am–2pm) is smaller but of comparable quality. For a hearty sit-down lunch, both markets have an excellent tavola calda, serving meatballs, pasta, stews, soups and sandwiches: Nerbone (Mon–Sat 7am–2pm) in the Mercato Centrale, and Tavola Calda da Rocco (Mon–Sat noon–2.30pm), in the Mercato di Sant’Ambrogio. If you really want to go native, you could join the throng of ofﬁce workers around the tripe stall in Piazza dei Cimatori (daily 8.30am–8.30pm). Its speciality is the local delicacy called lampredotto: hot tripe served in a bun with a spicy sauce. The stall also sells wine, so you can wash the taste away should you realize you’ve made a horrible mistake. There’s a similar operation – Da Pierpaolo e Sergio – parked outside the Cibrèo restaurant in Via de’ Macci, close to the Sant’Ambrogio market (Mon–Sat 9am–3pm; closed Aug).

| Florence (Firenze): Eating, drinking and entertainment

For a small city, Florence has plenty of big-city attractions: scores of cafés and restaurants, a full calendar of cultural events and a lot of chic shops to give focus to the evening passeggiata. The main problem is one of identity, in a city whose inhabitants are heavily outnumbered by outsiders from March to October. In recent years several stylish and good-value restaurants have opened, alongside some superb bars. As for nightlife, the university and the inﬂux of language students keep things lively, and events such as the Maggio Musicale (see p.454) maintain Florence’s standing as the hub of cultural life in Tuscany. The following listings are marked on the maps on pp.422–423 & pp.428–429.

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Eating, drinking and entertainment

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Vinaii The vinaio – a tiny wine bar with at most a couple of stools by the counter – was once a real Florentine institution. Customers would typically linger at these places for no more than a couple of minutes, long enough to down a glass of rosso and exchange a few words with the proprietor. The number of vinaii has declined markedly in recent years; notable survivors are All’Antico Vinaio, I Fratellini and Quasigratis (see the City centre listings, below).

City centre

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All’Antico Vinaio Via dei Neri 65/R. Located between the Ufﬁzi and Santa Croce, this place preserves much of the rough-and-ready atmosphere that’s made it one of Florence’s most popular wine bars for over a hundred years. Good crostini too. Daily 8am–3pm & 5–9.30pm. Caffè Gilli Piazza della Repubblica 36–39/R. Founded in 1733, Gilli is the most appealing of this square’s expensive cafés. The lavish belle époque interior is a sight in itself, but most people choose to sit on the big outdoor terrace. Wed–Mon 7.30am–1am. Cantinetta dei Verrazzano Via dei Tavolini 18–20/R. Owned by a major Chianti vineyard, this wood-panelled place near Orsanmichele is part-bar, part-café and part-bakery, making its own excellent pizza, focaccia and cakes. Sept–June Mon–Sat 8am–9pm; end July & Aug Mon–Sat 8am–4pm; closed ﬁrst three weeks July. Grom Via del Campanile. Founded in Turin in 2003, Grom is a retro-styled but very slick operation, concocting fabulous gelati from top-quality ingredients gathered from all over Italy. There’s even a menu of speciality ices that changes monthly. Daily April–Sept 10.30am–midnight; Oct–March closes 11pm. I Fratellini Via dei Cimatori 38/R. This minuscule, dirt-cheap bar is somehow clinging on in the immediate vicinity of the high-rent Via dei Calzaiuoli. Serves 29 varieties of good panini and local wines. Daily 9am–5.30pm; sometimes closed 2 wks Feb; closed Sun in winter. Perchè No! Via de’ Tavolini 19/R. “Why Not!” is a superb gelateria that’s been in business since 1939, with seasonal and daily specials: those in the know go for the pistachio and fruit ﬂavours in summer and the castagna (chestnut) and caco (persimmon) in winter. Mon & Wed–Sat: March–Oct 11am–midnight; Nov–Feb noon–8pm. Quasigratis Piazza del Grano 10. Little more than a window in a wall at the back of the Ufﬁzi, and it doesn’t say Quasigratis (“Almost free”) anywhere – apart from the broken “Vini” sign, there’s nothing to mark it out as an enoteca. Serves cheap wine in

plastic glasses, as well as rolls and other snacks. Daily 9.30am–11pm; closed Jan & Feb.

North of the centre Carabé Via Ricasoli 60/R. Wonderful Sicilian ice cream made with Sicilian ingredients. Also serves delicious cannoli (pastry stuffed with sweet ricotta and candied fruits). April–Oct daily 10am–1am; Nov–March 11am–8pm, but closed mid-Dec to mid-Jan. Casa del Vino Via dell’Ariento 16/R. The patrons of this atmospheric old bar are mostly Florentines, who pitch up for a drink, a chat with owner Gianni Migliorini and an assault on various panini, crostini, and saltless Tuscan bread and salami. Oct–May Mon–Sat 9.30am–5pm; June, July & Sept closed Sat; closed Aug. Zanobini Via Sant’Antonino 47/R. Like the Casa del Vino, its rival just around the corner, this is an authentic Florentine bar, whose feel owes much to the presence of traders from the nearby Mercato Centrale. Offers decent snacks, but most people are simply here for a chat over a glass of wine. Mon–Sat 9am–2pm & 3.30–8pm.

East of the centre Caffè Cibrèo Via Andrea del Verrocchio 5/R. Possibly the prettiest café in Florence, Caffè Cibrèo opened in 1989, but the wood-panelled interior gives it the look of a place that’s at least two hundred years older. Cakes and desserts are great, and the light meals bear the stamp of the Cibrèo restaurant kitchens opposite (see opposite). Tues–Sat 8am–1am. Vivoli Via Isola delle Stinche 7/R. Operating from deceptively unprepossessing premises in a sidestreet close to Santa Croce, this café has long been rated one of the best ice-cream-makers in Florence – the very best, in the opinion of many. Tues–Sun: summer 7.30am–midnight; mid-Nov to March closes 9pm. Closed two weeks in Aug.

Oltrarno Fuori Porta Via del Monte alle Croci 10/R T055.234.2483. This famous enoteca– osteria has more than six hundred wines to choose

from by the bottle, and an ever-changing selection of wines by the glass. Cheese and meat platters are available, together with a full menu of pasta dishes and tasty secondi, mainly under €10. Daily: April–Sept 12.30pm–12.30am; Oct–March 12.30–3.30pm & 7pm–12.30am. Il Rifrullo Via San Niccolò 53–57/R. Lying to the east of the Ponte Vecchio–Pitti Palace route, Il Rifrullo attracts fewer tourists than many Oltrarno café-bars. Serves a delicious early-evening aperitivo buffet (free with a €7 drink), when the music gets turned up, as well as more substantial dishes, and the Sun brunch (Sept–June) is always packed. Has a pleasant roof terrace, too. Daily 7.30am–2am.

Le Volpi e L’Uva Piazza dei Rossi 1/R, off Piazza di Santa Felìcita. This discreet, friendly little enoteca does good business by concentrating on the wines of small producers and providing tasty cold meats and snacks to accompany them (the selection of cheeses in particular is tremendous). In summer the shady terrace is a very pleasant refuge from the heat. Mon–Sat 11am–9pm. Zoe Via dei Renai 13. Like the neighbouring Negroni, Zoe is perennially popular for summerevening drinks, but it attracts lots of young Florentines right through the day. Does good snacks and simple meals, there’s a DJ in the back room, and it’s something of an art venue too. Mon–Sat 8am–2am, Sun 6pm–2am.

West of the centre Il Contadino Via Palazzuolo 71/R. Small, popular place with simple black-and-white interior and fascinating large photos of old Florence on the walls. Fast and friendly service, shared tables (no booking), very cheap but good food. Two-course lunch menu with wine costs a mere €10.50, €12 at dinner. Mon–Fri noon–9.40pm. Oliviero Via delle Terme 51/R T055.287.643, Wwww.ristorante-oliviero.it. Oliviero has a welcoming and old-fashioned feel – something like an Italian restaurant from the 1960s. There are two menus – one traditional Tuscan, one modern Italian – and the quality is exceptional: ﬁve types of bread, plus pasta and ice cream are all made on site. Expect to pay upwards of €50, without wine. Mon–Sat 11am–3pm & 7pm–1am; closed 3 weeks in Aug.

North of the centre Da Mario Via Rosina 2/R T 055.218.550. For earthy Florentine cooking at very low prices, there’s nowhere better then Da Mario, which has been in operation right by the Mercato Centrale since 1953. It’s just a pity it isn’t open in the evenings. No credit cards; no booking. Mon–Sat noon–3.30pm; closed Aug. Da Tito Via San Gallo 112/R T055.472.475. Full of locals every night and offering excellent food at fair prices, a meal at Da Tito is well worth the extra few minutes’ walk from the centre. Dishes are simple but elegant – beef ﬁllet with rocket pesto, for

example – and secondi go for a reasonable €9–15. The jovial staff are generous with the limoncello at the end of the meal. Mon–Sat 12.30–3pm & 7–11pm, Sun 7–11pm.

East of the centre Baldovino Via San Giuseppe 22/R T055.241.773. This superb place is renowned above all for its pizzas (made in a wood-ﬁred oven), but the main menu (which changes monthly) is full of good Tuscan and Italian dishes, with secondi around €12–20. Portions are generous. April–Oct Mon 11am–3pm, Tues–Sun 11am–3pm & 7–1pm; Nov–March closed Mon. Cibrèo Via de’ Macci 118/R T055.234.1100. Fabio Picchi’s Cibrèo is the ﬁrst Florentine port-of-call for foodies, known for its superb, creative cuisine and top-notch service. You’ll need to book days in advance for a table in the main restaurant, but next door there’s a small, somewhat spartan trattoria section (Trattoria Cibrèo) where the food is similar (though the menu is smaller), no bookings are taken and prices are around €14 for secondi, as opposed to €36 in the restaurant. For a lighter meal, head for the Teatro del Sale (see p.452), Cibrèo’s latest venture. Tues–Sat 12.30–2.30pm & 7–11.15pm. Closed Aug. Il Pizzaiuolo Via de’ Macci 113/R T 055.241.171. The Neapolitan pizzas here are among the best in the city. Wines and other dishes also have a Neapolitan touch, as does the atmosphere, which

| Florence (Firenze): Eating, drinking and entertainment

Florence has scores of restaurants, but such is the volume of customers that in high season advance bookings are virtually compulsory – especially on Sundays, when many places are closed. And bear in mind that meals – not just snacks – are served in many Florentine bars, so if you’re exploring a particular area of the city and fancy a quick bite to eat rather than a full-blown restaurant meal, take a look at the relevant section in the “Cafés and bars” listings on p.449.

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is friendly and high-spirited. Booking’s a good idea, at least in the evening. Mon–Sat 12.30–3pm & 7.30pm–midnight. Closed Aug. Ora d’Aria Via dei Georgoﬁli 11/R T055.2001.699. Marco Stabile, the young boss of Ora d’Aria, has recently relocated his stylish restaurant to this more central location, but his winning formula remains unchanged: a high-quality mix of the traditional and the innovative, in a relaxed yet elegant setting. The tasting menus (from €50) are very good value; à la carte, main courses are around €30. The lunch menu is more traditionally Tuscan, and less expensive, at €14 for mains, plus there’s a tapas option (€3–8 per portion). Mon–Sat 12.30–2.30pm & 7.30–10.30pm; closed 2 weeks Aug. Teatro del Sale Via dei Macci 111/R T 055.200.1492, W www.teatrodelsale.com. You have to sign up for membership (€5) before you’re allowed into this theatre-cum-cultural association, where generous breakfast, lunch and dinner buffets (€7/€20/€30) made by Cibrèo chefs (see p.451) are served in an atmospheric old Florentine theatre; dinner is accompanied by a performance – anything from ﬁlm to theatre to live music. Daily 7.30am–midnight.

Oltrarno Alla Vecchia Bettola Viale Lodovico Ariosto 32–34/R T 055.224.158. Located on a major trafﬁc intersection a couple of minutes’ walk from the Carmine, this wonderfully old-fashioned place has something of the atmosphere of an old-style drinking den; it boasts a good repertoire of Tuscan meat dishes, with main courses reasonably priced from €12. No credit cards. Tues–Sat noon–2.30pm & 7.30–10.30pm. Il Santo Bevitore Via Santo Spirito 64–66/R T 055.211.264. “The Holy Drinker” is an airy and stylish gastronomic enoteca with a small but classy menu (around €30 for a meal without drinks) to complement its enticing wine list. Two doors down, Il Santino, run by the same owners (daily 10am–10.30pm), is a more intimate wine bar with good cheese and cold meat plates. Mon–Sat 12.30–2.30pm & 7.30–11.30pm, Sun 7.30–11.30pm; closed two weeks Aug. La Casalinga Via del Michelozzo 9/R T 055.218.624. This long-established

family-run trattoria serves up some of the best low-cost Tuscan dishes in town (from €7 for a secondo). Most nights it’s ﬁlled with regulars and a good few outsiders – by 8pm there’s invariably a queue. Mon–Sat noon–2.30pm & 7–10pm; closed three weeks in Aug. La Mangiatoia Piazza San Felice 8/9/R T055.224.060. Ideally placed for lunch before a visit to Palazzo Pitti, this rosticceria has a no-frills trattoria out back, where a full menu of Tuscan fare is served in a somewhat spartan interior. There are good pizzas too (around €7), cooked in a wood-ﬁred oven. Tues–Sun noon–3pm & 7–10pm. Olio e Convivium Via Santo Spirito 4 T055.265.8198. A gourmet food shop-cumrestaurant that specializes in wine and olive oil. Drop by to pick up some foodie souvenirs from the delicatessen, try a gourmet panino to take away or treat yourself to a sit-down meal in the intimate dining room. The lunch menu is a bargain at €18 for two courses with wine; dinner is pricier and more reﬁned, featuring dishes such as veal shank with potato ﬂan in a mushroom sauce (€16). Mon 10am–2.30pm, Tues–Sat 10am–4.30pm & 5.30–10.30pm. Osteria Antica Mescita San Niccolò Via San Niccolò 60/R T055.234.2836. This genuine old-style Oltrarno osteria has a small menu of robust and well-prepared Florentine staples (ribollita, lampredotto, etc), at around €10 for main courses; there’s also a good lunchtime buffet for a mere €5–10. Mon–Sat 12.30–3pm & 7pm–1am; closed 10 days in Aug. Pane e Vino Piazza di Cestello 3/R T055.247.6956. Pane e Vino is a stylish yet relaxed place, with a menu that’s small but consistently excellent (secondi €15–20), featuring two very enticing set menus (€35 & €45). Mon–Sat 7.30pm–1am; closed two weeks in Aug. Quattro Leoni Via dei Vellutini 1/R, Piazza della Passera T055.218.562. Occupying a threeroomed medieval interior, this is a young, relaxed place with wooden beams and splashy modern art strung across the rough stone walls. In summer you can also eat alfresco under vast canvas umbrellas in the tiny piazza. You can eat very well for around €40 a head, excluding wine. Daily noon–midnight.

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Many of Florence’s hotter bars now aim to keep punters on the premises all night, by serving free snacks with the aperitivi (usually from about 7–9/10pm) before the music kicks in – either live or (more often) courtesy of the in-house DJ. Florentine nightlife has a reputation for catering primarily to the middleaged and affluent, but like every university town it has its pockets of activity.

Gay and lesbian Florence The leading gay bar is Crisco, a short distance east of the Duomo at Via Sant’Egidio 43/R (T339.723.0615, Wwww.criscoclub.it; Mon, Wed, Thurs, Fri & Sat 11pm–3am), but the ambience can be a bit heavy for some tastes. Piccolo Café, Borgo Santa Croce 23/R (T055.200.1057; daily 6.30pm–2am), has a more chilled-out atmosphere and draws a mixed gay and lesbian crowd, as does the stylish Y.A.G. B@r, also near Santa Croce at Via de’ Macci 8/R (T055.246.9022, Wwww.yagbar.com; daily 9.30pm–2am). The key bar-club is the pioneering Tabasco, which has been going for more than 35 years at Piazza Santa Cecilia 3/R (T055.213.000, Wwww.tabascogay .eu; Tues–Sun 10pm–6am). For lesbian contacts, check the noticeboard at the women’s bookshop Libreria delle Donne, Via Fiesolana 2/B (Mon & Sat 3.30–7.30pm, Tues–Fri 9.30am–1pm & 3.30–7.30pm).

Auditorium FLOG Via Michele Mercati 24/B T 055.477.978, Wwww.ﬂog.it. One of the city’s best-known mid-sized venues, and a perennial student favourite for all forms of live music (and DJs), but particularly local indie-type bands. It’s usually packed, despite a position way out in the northern suburbs; to get there take bus #4 or #28 from Santa Maria Novella. Be Bop Via de’ Servi 76/R T055.264.5756. This scruffy music bar, popular with students from 10pm on, is a good bet for a fun night out. There’s always live music, from jazz to rock to tribute bands; for over a decade, Tuesday night has been Beatles night. Tues–Sat 8pm–2am. Central Park Via Fosso Macinante 2, Parco delle Cascine T347.320.8122. One of the city’s biggest and most commercial clubs, with three danceﬂoors and DJs who know what they’re doing – and have access to a superb sound system. The ﬁrst drink is included in the admission – around €10–25 after midnight, usually free before. Summer Wed–Sat 11pm–4am; winter Fri & Sat same hours. Dolce Vita Piazza del Carmine 6/R. This smart and extremely popular bar with a buzzy outdoor terrace has been going for more than a decade and has stayed ahead of the game by constantly updating. Install yourself on one of the aluminium bar stools and preen with Florence’s beautiful young things. There’s live music (Latin, rock or jazz) Tues from 7.30pm, a DJ other nights,

a sushi buffet on Thurs and aperitivi every night 7.30–10pm. Daily 7.30pm–2am. Noir Lungarno Corsini 12–14/R. Decked out in moody nocturnal tones, this bar has been voted the Florentines’ favourite night-time hangout several times, and it remains out in front. The interior has plenty of tables, but in summer most people take their drinks across the road to perch on the wall overlooking the Arno. In winter, the Sun brunch (12.30–3.30pm) is popular, as is the year-round aperitivo buffet (7.30–10.30pm; €9). DJs nightly. Daily 6pm–3am. Rex Café Via Fiesolana 25/R T055.248.0331. A friendly bar-club with a varied and loyal clientele. Lots of cosy seating around the central bar, and good cocktails and DJs (from 10.30pm) add to the appeal. The aperitivi session is 6–9.30pm. Daily 6pm–2am; closed June–Aug. Slowly Via Porta Rossa 63. This slick bar, with its neat little banquettes and candle lanterns, tends to attract a showy, beautifully dressed young crowd, particularly at aperitivo hour (7–10.30pm; €10 a drink, including buffet). The atmosphere is pretty laidback, even when the DJ gets to work (from 10.30pm). Daily 7pm–2am. Tenax Via Pratese 46 T055.632.958, Wwww .tenax.org. Florence’s biggest club, pulling in the odd jet-setting DJ. Given its location in the northwest of town, near the airport (bus #29 or #30 from Santa Maria Novella), you’ll escape the hordes of internazionalisti in the more central clubs. With two ﬂoors, it’s a major venue for concerts as well.

| Florence (Firenze): Eating, drinking and entertainment

Bars, clubs and live music venues

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Admission is often cheaper for females, and is generally free if you arrive before 11pm. Florence’s cultural calendar is ﬁlled out with seasons of classical music, opera and dance to rival the best in Europe. For information about concerts and shows, get hold of the Firenze Spettacolo monthly listings magazine or drop in at the Box Office ticket agency, which is at Via delle Vecchie Carceri 1, near the Mercato di Sant’Ambrogio (T 055.210.804, W www.boxol.it; Mon–Fri 9.30am–7pm, Sat 9.30am–2pm).

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Admission €20–25. Thurs–Sat 10.30pm–4am. Closed mid-May to mid-Sept. YAB Via Sassetti 5/R T 055.215.160, W www.yab.it. Young And Beautiful is a pretty

accurate decription of this sleek club’s dressedup crowd. The best night is Monday’s Smoove – a long-running hip-hop night. Open Mon & Wed–Sat.

Film

In Italy the vast majority of English-language ﬁlms are dubbed, but the only cinema still in operation in the centre of Florence, the Cinema Teatro Odeon in Piazza Strozzi (T 055.214.068, W www.cinehall.it; closed mid-June to mid-Sept; tickets €7.50), screens ﬁlms in their original language (versione originale) on Mondays, Tuesdays and Thursdays. In summer, open-air screens are set up, mostly out of the centre. The most convenient of these is the Chiardiluna in Oltrarno (Via di Monte Oliveto; T 055.2337.042), though ﬁlms are screened in Italian only. Classical music, opera and dance TUS C ANY

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Lasting from late April to early July, the Maggio Musicale Fiorentino is one of Europe’s leading festivals of opera and classical music. Events are staged at the Teatro Comunale, the tiny Teatro Goldoni, the Teatro della Pergola, the Palazzo dei Congressi, and occasionally in the Bóboli gardens. Information and tickets are available from the Teatro Comunale box office, Corso Italia 16 (T 055.213.535, W www.maggioﬁorentino.com). The smaller Estate Fiesolana festival (mid-June to end July; W www.estateﬁesolana.it) concentrates on classical and jazz music, with most events held in Fiesole’s open-air Teatro Romano and other atmospheric venues around town.

Fashion factory outlets Tuscany is the powerhouse of the country’s textile industry, and the Arno valley is home to many of the factories that manufacture clothes for the top labels. Several of these factories have retail outlets alongside, in which the season’s leftovers are sold at discounts as high as sixty percent. The best of the outlets are listed below; ask at the tourist ofﬁce for a full list. Barberino Designer Outlet Via Meucci, Barberino di Mugello T055.842.161, W www .mcarthurglen.it/barberino. The biggest range, incuding Cavalli, D&G, Ferré, Missoni and Prada, plus discounted high-street gear from labels such as Diesel, Benetton and Furla. Tues–Fri 10am–8pm, Sat & Sun 10am–9pm, also Mon 2–8pm in Jan, June– Sept & Dec. SITA bus from Via Santa Caterina da Siena or shuttle bus from outside Santa Maria Novella station (2 daily). Dolce & Gabbana Via Pian dell’Isola 49, Località Santa Maria Maddalena T 055.833.1300. This two-storey shed, a few kilometres north of Incisa Val d’Arno, is packed with clothes, accessories and household items from Dolce & Gabbana, plus cheaper stuff from the D&G diffusion label. Daily 10am–7.30pm. Train to Rignano sull’Arno-Reggello, then taxi. The Mall Via Europa 8, Leccio Regello T055.865.7775, Wwww.themall.it. Outlets for Balenciaga, Bottega Veneta, Cavalli, Pucci, Fendi, Armani, Marni, Salvatore Ferragamo, Sergio Rossi and Valentino, among others. Gucci is the dominant presence, with a huge range of bags, shoes and sunglasses. Daily 10am–7pm. SITA bus from Via Santa Caterina da Siena or shuttle bus from outside Santa Maria Novella station (2 daily). Space Levanella, Montevarchi T055.91.901. On a small industrial estate in the Levanella district (on the SS69), this outlet is stacked with Prada clothes, as well as a good selection from Miu Miu. Sun–Fri 10.30am–8pm, Sat 9.30am–8pm. Train to Montevarchi, then taxi.

The Teatro Comunale is Florence’s major concert venue, hosting a symphony orchestra which performs a new programme every week during the winter concert season ( Jan–March), plus a prestigious opera and ballet season in the autumn (Oct–Dec). The Teatro della Pergola, at Via della Pergola 18 (T 055.226.4353, W www.teatrodellapergola.com), which was built in 1656 and believed to be Italy’s oldest surviving theatre, hosts chamber concerts and small-scale operas (Oct–April), while the Teatro Verdi, Via Ghibellina 99–101 (T 055.212.320, W www.teatroverdionline.it), is home to the Orchestra della Toscana.

Listings

| Listings • Around Florence

Servi 102/R, Via della Scala 52–54/R, Via Ghibellina 143/R and Borgo San Frediano 29/R. Left luggage Santa Maria Novella station by platform 16 (daily 6am–11.50pm; €4/ﬁrst 5hr, €0.60/hr thereafter). Lost property Lost property handed in at the city or railway police ends up at Via Vera Cini 5 (Mon, Wed & Fri 9am–12.30, Tues & Thurs 9am–12.30 & 2.30–4.30pm; T055.367.943; bus #17, #29, #30 or #35). Pharmacies The Farmacia Comunale, on the train station concourse, is open 24hr. All’Insegna del Moro, at Piazza San Giovanni 20/R, on the north side of the Baptistry, and Farmacia Molteni, at Via dei Calzaiuoli 7/R, alternate their 24hr service every two weeks. Police To report a theft or other crime, go to the Carabinieri at Borgo Ognissanti 48, to the Questura at Via Duca d’Aosta 3 (both 24hr), or to the tourist police at Via Pietrapiana 50/R (Mon–Fri 8.30am–6.30pm, Sat closes 1pm) – you’re more likely to ﬁnd an English-speaker at the latter. Post ofﬁce The main central post ofﬁce is near Piazza della Repubblica at Via Pellicceria 3 (Mon–Sat 8.15am–7pm). If you’re having mail sent poste restante, make sure it’s marked for Via Pellicceria, otherwise it will go to Florence’s biggest post ofﬁce, at Via Pietrapiana 53–55 (Mon–Fri 8.15am–7pm, Sat 8.15am–12.30pm).

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Banks and exchange Florence’s main bank branches are on or around Piazza della Repubblica. Bike, scooter & moped rental Alinari, Via San Zanobi 38/R T 055.280.500, Wwww.alinarirental .com; Florence by Bike, Via San Zanobi 120/R T 055.488.992, Wwww.ﬂorencebybike.it. Car rental Avis, Borgo Ognissanti 128/R T 055.289.010; Europcar, Borgo Ognissanti 53 T 055.290.438; Hertz, Via Maso Finiguerra 33/R T 055.239.8205; Maggiore, Via Maso Finiguerra 13/R T 055.210.238. Consulates UK, Lungarno Corsini 2 T 055.284.133; US, Lungarno Amerigo Vespucci 38 T055.266.951. Doctors The Tourist Medical Service is a private service with doctors on call 24hr a day (T 055.475.411, Wwww.medicalservice.ﬁrenze.it), or you can visit their clinic at Via Lorenzo il Magniﬁco 59 (Mon–Fri 11am–noon & 5–6pm, Sat 11am–noon). Note that you’ll need insurance cover to recoup the cost of a consultation, which will be at least €50. Florence’s central hospital is on Piazza Santa Maria Nuova. Internet Internet Train (W www.internettrain.it) has nine outlets in the city, including Via de Benci 36/R, Via Guelfa 54–56/R, Via Porta Rossa 38/R and Piazza Stazione 14 – they’re open daily 10am–10pm and charge €2.70/30min. Laundry Wash & Dry has branches throughout the city, open 8am–10pm daily, including Via dei

Around Florence The Greater Florence area has a number of towns and attractions to entice you on a day-trip from the city or even act as a base for exploring the region. City buses run northeast to the hill-village of Fiesole, while inter-town services run south into the hills of Chianti, Italy’s premier wine region. To the west of Florence, and readily accessible by train, Prato and neighbouring Pistoia are also well worth an afternoon.

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Fiesole A long-established Florentine retreat from the summer heat and crowds, FIESOLE spreads over a cluster of hilltops 8km northeast of the city. It predates Florence by several millennia: the Etruscans held out so long up here that the Romans were forced to set up permanent camp in the valley below – thus creating the beginnings of the settlement that was to become Florence. ATAF city bus #7 runs hourly from Florence’s Piazza San Marco. The tourist office is just off the square, behind the cathedral at Via Portigiani 3 (March & Oct daily 10am–6pm; April–Sept daily 10am–7pm; Nov–Feb Wed–Mon 10am–2pm; T 055.596.1293). Piazza Mino and around

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| Fiesole

The slightly unkempt-looking central square, Piazza Mino, is named after the ﬁfteenth-century sculptor Mino da Fiesole, who has two ﬁne pieces in the Duomo (daily: summer 8am–noon & 3–6pm; winter 8am–noon & 2–5pm; free) that dominates the north side of the square. Nineteenth-century restoration ruined the Duomo’s exterior, and the interior is something like a stripped-down version of Florence’s San Miniato; the highlight is the Cappella Salutati, to the right of the choir, which contains two ﬁne pieces by Mino – a panel of the Madonna and Saints and the tomb of Bishop Salutati. Behind the Duomo lie the Museo Archeologico (April–Sept daily 10am–7pm; Oct & March daily 10am–6pm; Nov–Feb Wed–Mon 10am–2pm; €10 for joint ticket including Museo Bandini, valid one day), containing pieces excavated from the Teatro Romano; and the Museo Bandini (same hours and ticket), housing a miscellany of medieval Florentine and Tuscan art. Gates give onto the Area Archeologica behind (same hours and ticket), featuring the 3000-seat Teatro Romano, a baths complex and an Etruscan temple dedicated to Minerva. The rest of the town

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Fiesole’s two other major churches are reached by the narrow Via San Francesco, which rises steeply from Piazza Mino, past the Oratorio di San Jacopo (rarely open), a little chapel containing a ﬁfteenth-century fresco and some ecclesiastical treasures. Sant’Alessandro (open for exhibitions only) was founded in the sixth century on the site of Etruscan and Roman temples and has beautiful marmorino cipollino (onion marble) columns adorning its basilical interior. The Gothic church of San Francesco (daily: April–Sept 7am–noon & 3–7pm; Oct– March 9am–noon & 3–5pm) occupies the site of the acropolis; across one of the tiny cloisters there’s a chaotic museum of pieces brought back from Egypt and China by missionaries. For a lovely walk, head southwest from Piazza Mino for 1.5km down the narrow, winding Via Vecchia Fiesolana to the hamlet of San Domenico. Fra’ Angelico was once prior of the Dominican monastery here and the church retains a 1420 Madonna and Angels by him (ﬁrst chapel on the left), while the chapterhouse also has the Fra’ Angelico fresco The Cruciﬁxion (ring the bell at no. 4 for entry). Five minutes’ walk northwest from San Domenico stands the Badìa Fiesolana (Mon–Fri 9am–6pm, closes at 5pm in winter), Fiesole’s cathedral from the ninth century to the eleventh. Cosimo il Vecchio had the church altered in the 1460s, a project which kept the magniﬁcent Romanesque facade intact while transforming the interior into a superb Renaissance building. The best restaurant in town is La Reggia degli Etruschi, Via San Francesco 18 (T 055.59.385; closed Tues), with excellent cooking and marvellous views from its terraces.

Prato

The provincial capital of PISTOIA is one of the least visited cities in Tuscany, an unjustiﬁed neglect for this quiet, well-preserved settlement. If you’ve come from Pisa or Lucca, the style of Pistoia’s Duomo, the Cattedrale di San Zeno (daily 8am–12.30pm & 3.30–7pm), will be immediately familiar, with its tiered arcades and distinctive Pisan-Romanesque decoration of striped black and white marble. Inside, the main attraction is the Cappella di San Jacopo (€2), which boasts one of the richest pieces of silverwork in Italy, the Altarpiece of St James. Weighing almost a tonne and populated with 628 ﬁgures, it was begun in 1287 and completed in the ﬁfteenth century. Opposite is the dapper Gothic Baptistry (currently closed for restoration), designed by Giovanni Pisano and completed in the mid-fourteenth century. On the far side of the square, the Palazzo Comunale contains the Museo Civico (Thurs–Sun 10am–6pm; €3.50, joint ticket valid for three museums €6.50), where the customary welter of run-of-the-mill medieval and Renaissance pieces is counterweighted by an impressive showing of Baroque hyperactivity. Your time might be better spent, however, touring the town’s other main churches, the Abbazia di San Bartolomeo in Pantano, San Giovanni Fuorcivitas and Sant’Andrea, all of which are within a ten-minute walk of the Duomo and house remarkably carved thirteenth-century pulpits. The most photographed feature of Pistoia is the Ospedale del Ceppo, along Via Pacini, which takes its name from the hollowed-out tree stump (ceppo) in which alms were traditionally collected. Emblazoned on its colonnaded facade is the feature that makes it famous, Giovanni della Robbia’s painted terracotta frieze of the Theological Virtues and the Seven Works of Mercy.

Chianti Ask a sample of middle-class Northern Europeans to deﬁne their idea of paradise and the odds are that a hefty percentage will come up with something that sounds

| Prato • Pistoia • Chianti

Pistoia

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PRATO, Tuscany’s second-largest city after Florence, has been Italy’s chief textile centre since the early Middle Ages, and its commercial history is well covered in the city’s Museo del Tessuto (Mon–Fri 10am–6pm, Sat 10am–2pm, Sun 4–7pm; €6, free on Sun), in Via Santa Chiara, close to the white-walled Castello dell’Imperatore. In the same part of town you’ll ﬁnd Prato’s major Renaissance monument, Giuliano da Sangallo’s Santa Maria delle Carceri (daily 7am–noon & 4–7pm), which was built to honour a miraculous talking image of the Virgin that was painted on the walls of the gaol here – hence the name “Mary of the Prisons”. A few minutes’ walk away, the wide Piazza del Duomo forms an effective space for the Pisan-Romanesque facade of the Duomo (daily 7.30am–7pm), distinguished by Donatello’s and Michelozzo’s beautiful Pulpit of the Sacred Girdle. This unique addition was constructed for the ceremonial display of Prato’s holiest relic, the girdle of the Madonna, a garment allegedly dropped into the hands of the ever-incredulous apostle Thomas at her Assumption. Inside, Filippo Lippi’s wonderful frescoes (Mon–Sat 10am–5pm, Sun 3–5pm; €3), around the high altar, were completed over a period of fourteen years (1452–66) and depict the lives of John the Baptist and St Stephen. Prato’s one other essential sight is the Museo di Pittura Murale (Mon, Wed, Thurs & Sun 9am–1pm, Fri & Sat 9am–1pm & 3–6pm; €5), in the ex-monastery adjoining the mainly fourteenth-century church of San Domenico, which houses Filippo Lippi’s Madonna del Ceppo. Other Lippi pieces are also on show, as well as paintings by his son, Filippino.

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a lot like Chianti, the territory of vineyards and hill-towns that stretches between Florence and Siena. Life in Chianti seems in perfect balance: the landscape is a softly varied terrain of hills and valleys; the climate for most of the year is sunny; and on top of all this there’s the wine, the one Italian vintage that’s familiar to just about everyone. Visitors from Britain and other similarly ill-favoured climes were long ago alerted to Chianti’s charms, and the rate of immigration has been so rapid since the 1960s that the region is now wryly dubbed Chiantishire. Yet it would be an exaggeration to say that Chianti has completely lost its character: the tone of certain parts has been altered, but concessions to tourism have been more or less successfully absorbed into the rhythm of local life. If you’re relying on buses from Florence or Siena, the best targets are Greve in Chianti and Radda in Chianti. But the only realistic way to get to know the region is with your own transport, following the SS222 (or Chiantigiana), which snakes its way between Florence and Siena through the most beautiful parts of Chianti. TUS C ANY

Greve in Chianti

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The venue for Chianti’s biggest wine fair (the Rassegna del Chianti Classico, usually held in early September), GREVE is a thriving mercantile town where there’s wine for sale on every street. The funnel-shaped Piazza Matteotti – venue for the Saturday-morning market – is focused on a statue of Giovanni da Verrazzano, the ﬁrst European to see what became Manhattan; he was born in the nearby Castello di Verrazzano. Greve’s only real sight is the Museo di San Francesco, at Via San Francesco 14 (April–Oct Tues, Thurs & Fri 4–7pm, Sat & Sun 10am–1pm & 4–7pm; Nov–March Tues & Thurs 3–6pm, Sat & Sun 10am–1pm & 3–6pm; €3), where the chief exhibit is a painted terracotta Lamentation, created in the 1530s. Greve is equipped with an efficient tourist office, tucked into a corner of Piazza Matteotti at Via delle Capanne 11 (Mon–Sat 10am–1pm & 3–6pm; T 055.854.5243), which can give information on vineyards, accommodation in local farmhouses and trekking in Chianti. A couple of three-star hotels on Piazza Matteotti offer comfortable accommodation: Del Chianti at no. 86 (T 055.853.763, W www.albergo delchianti.it; 2), with a swimming pool, and A Da Verrazzano at no. 28 (T 055.853.189, W www.albergoverrazzano.it; 2), whose rooms either overlook the square or have their own private terrace. The hotel also has an extremely good restaurant (April– Oct daily; Nov–March closed Mon & Sun dinner). Radda in Chianti

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A ridge 22km south of Greve is occupied by the well-heeled village of Castellina in Chianti, whose walls and fortress bear testimony to an embattled past on the frontline between Florence and Siena. From Castellina, the SS429 branches east, through the most beautiful Chianti landscape, to RADDA IN CHIANTI. The street plan of this minuscule town is centred on Piazza Ferrucci, where the frescoed and shield-studded Palazzo Comunale faces a church raised on a high platform. The tourist office, behind the church (Mon–Sat 10.15am–1pm & 3.15–6.30pm, Sun 10.30am-12.30pm), can advise on accommodation in town, but the best place to stay in these parts is A La Locanda (T 0577.738.832, W www.lalocanda.it; April–Oct; 5 ), a country house halfway between Radda and Greve. Beautifully restored by affable owners Guido and Martina, it enjoys a scenic hilltop setting and also has a swimming pool and a good restaurant (Mon, Wed & Fri; dinner €35; booking essential). An added attraction is the nearby Il Castello di Volpaia winery (W www.volpaia.it), one of the best in the area.

Pisa, Lucca and the coast

To too many tourists, PISA is known for just one thing – the Leaning Tower, which serves around the world as a shorthand image for Italy. It is indeed a freakishly beautiful building, a sight whose impact no amount of prior knowledge can blunt. Yet it is just a single component of Pisa’s breathtaking Campo dei Miracoli, or Field of Miracles, where the Duomo, Baptistry and Camposanto complete a dazzling architectural ensemble. These amazing buildings belong to Pisa’s Golden Age, from the eleventh to the thirteenth centuries, when the city was one of the maritime powers of the Mediterranean. Decline set in with defeat by the Genoese in 1284, followed by the silting-up of Pisa’s harbour, and from 1406 the city was governed by Florence, whose rulers re-established the University of Pisa, one of the great intellectual establishments of the Renaissance – Galileo was a teacher here. Subsequent centuries saw Pisa fade into provinciality, though landmarks from its glory days now bring in hundreds of thousands of visitors a year, and the combination of tourism and a large student population give the contemporary city a lively feel.

| Pisa

Pisa

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Thanks to its Leaning Tower, Pisa is known by name to just about every visitor to Italy, though it remains an underrated place, seen by most people on a whistlestop day-trip that takes in nothing of the city except the tower and its immediate environs. Genteel Lucca nearby, its walled old town crammed with Romanesque churches, is even less explored. Tuscany’s coast is a mixed bag, generally too overdeveloped to be consistently attractive. North of Pisa, the succession of beach resorts enjoys the backdrop of the mighty Alpi Apuane, which harbour the marble quarries of Carrara. South from Pisa, past the untouristed port of Livorno, are a hundred scrubby strips of hotels and campsites. The Tuscan shoreline is at its best in the Maremma region, where you’ll ﬁnd the protected Monti dell’Uccellina reserve and the wild, wooded peninsula of Monte Argentario. Tuscany’s main island, Elba, also offers a breath of fresh air.

Arrival and information To get from the airport to Pisa, either take a train to Pisa Centrale (see box below), about 1km south of the Arno, or a LAM rossa bus (roughly every 10min; €1, or

Transport from Pisa airport to Florence Pisa’s Aeroporto Galileo Galilei (Wwww.pisa-airport.com) is just 2km south of Pisa Centrale station. Terravision buses run to Santa Maria Novella station in Florence (12 daily; 1hr 10min; €16 return). Tickets are sold in the airport concourse. Trains from the airport station are cheaper (€5.70), if often slower; there are only six direct trains daily (6.40am–10.20pm), but every thirty minutes a train runs from the airport to Pisa Centrale (5min), where you can change to one of the regular services to Florence – there’s rarely more than thirty minutes between trains, and the journey time is between an hour and eighty minutes. Train tickets can be bought from the machine in the station or from the ofﬁce in Arrivals.

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€1.50 on board), which stops at the station, at Lungarno Pacinotti, next to the Ponte di Mezzo, and at Piazza Arcivescovado, near the Leaning Tower. Out-of-town buses arrive at Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II and Piazza Sant’Antonio near the station. The Leaning Tower is about 25 minutes’ walk north of the station, or a short ride on the LAM rossa bus or CPT city bus #4. There are two tourist offices: a short way north of the train station, at Piazza Vittorio Emanuele 13 (Mon–Sat 9am–7pm, Sun 9am–4pm; T 050.42.291, W www.pisaunicaterra.it), and inside the Museo dell’Opera del Duomo (see p.463; daily 9.30am–7.30pm).

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Most visitors hurry through Pisa on a day-trip – which means that accommodation is usually not hard to ﬁnd. In summer, though, it’s still best to book in advance.

Hotels

Royal Victoria Lungarno Pacinotti 12 T050.940.111, Wwww.royalvictoria.it. Run by the same family since its foundation in 1837, this old-fashioned and appealingly frayed three-star is the most characterful of central Pisa’s hotels – and the best value. The public rooms, with their musty engravings and antique furniture, are redolent of the place’s history (there’s even a music room, with piano), but if you’re deterred by wobbly door-handles and badly patched-up ceiling frescoes, it’s not the place for you. 2

Hostel

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Walking Street Hostel Corso Italia 58 T393.064.8737, W www.walkingstreethostel.com. Opened in 2010, this hostel has an excellent location, on Pisa’s busy main drag, as well as clean, bright dorms, a pool table, free internet access and a kitchen for guests’ use, with free tea and coffee. Space is limited – twenty beds in six rooms – so book ahead. There’s a private en-suite double room too. Dorms €22–24, double 1

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Helvetia Via Don G. Boschi 31 T050.553.084, Wwww.pensionehelvetiapisa.com. Some of Pisa’s one-star hotels are pretty grim, but this is a spotless and friendly place, and is very well located, just two minutes from the Leaning Tower; it has doubles with or without private bathroom, as well as family rooms and a shady garden. No breakfast. 1 Novecento Via Roma 37 T050.500.323, W www .hotelnovecento.pisa.it. This three-star residenza d’epoca occupies a handsome old townhouse, but the rooms are immaculately modern in style. The tariffs are very reasonable, the location convenient, and it has a nice garden as well. 3 Relais dell’Orologio Via della Faggiola 12–14 T 050.830.361, Wwww.hotelrelaisorologio.com. Just 100m from the Leaning Tower, this ﬁve-star boutique hotel is set in a building that dates back to the fourteenth century. The rooms have chintzy furnishings, wall paintings and wood beams, and there’s a tranquil garden where breakfast is served in ﬁne weather. 8

The City The focal point of Pisa, the Campo dei Miracoli (Field of Miracles), got its name from the notoriously over-excitable writer Gabriele D’Annunzio, but the label is no mere bombast – the ecclesiastical centre of Pisa is a stunning spectacle, from which the inevitable array of kitsch-selling stalls can barely detract. Nowhere else in Italy are the key religious buildings – the cathedral, baptistry and bell tower – so perfectly harmonious, and nowhere else is there so beautiful a contrast of stonework and surrounding meadow. And the mere existence of such enormous structures on this spot is remarkable in itself, because beneath the pavements and the turf lies a soggy mix of sand and silt, whose instability accounts for the angle of the Leaning Tower and the lesser tilt of its companions: take a close look at the Baptistry and you’ll see that it’s inclined some way out of the vertical, while the facade of the Duomo is a few degrees out of true as well.

Tickets for the Campo dei Miracoli Tickets for all ﬁve museums and monuments of the Campo dei Miracoli – the Duomo, Baptistry, Museo dell’Opera, Camposanto and Museo delle Sinopie – can only be bought at two ticket ofﬁces: one on the north side of the Leaning Tower, the other inside the Museo delle Sinopie. Prices are as follows: the Duomo costs €2, except for Sunday mornings, when it’s free. Single admission to the other sights costs €5. Admission to any two sights (including the Duomo) is €6, to all ﬁve is €10; these combined tickets are valid for the day of issue only. There’s a separate ticket (€15) for the Leaning Tower; groups of 30 are allowed in for half an hour, and you should expect a long wait in high season. Note that the last entrance to all sights is 30 minutes before closing. For an extra €2 you can pre-book your visit online at Wwww.opapisa.it, as long as you’re making your reservation between 45 and 15 days in advance. Children under the age of 8 are not allowed into the tower.

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It has to be said that visiting the Campo in high season is not a calming experience – the tourist maelstrom here can be ﬁerce. Within a short radius of the Campo dei Miracoli, however, Pisa takes on a quite different character, because very few tourists bother to venture far from the shadow of the Leaning Tower. To the southeast of the Campo, on the river, you’ll ﬁnd the Museo Nazionale di San Matteo, a ﬁne collection of ecclesiastical art and sculpture, while west along the Arno stands another good museum, the Palazzo Reale, which faces the exquisite little Santa Maria della Spina, on the opposite bank. The Leaning Tower

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The Leaning Tower (Torre Pendente; daily: Jan & Dec 10am–5pm; Feb & Nov 9.30am–5.30pm; March 9am–6pm; April, May & Sept 8.30am–8.30pm; June– Aug 8.30am–11pm; Oct 9am–7.30pm; for tickets, see box, p.461) has always tilted. Begun in 1173, it started to subside when it had reached just three of its eight storeys, but it leaned in the opposite direction to the present one. Odd-shaped stones were inserted to correct this deﬁciency, whereupon the tower lurched the other way. Over the next 180 years a succession of architects continued to extend the thing upwards, each one endeavouring to compensate for the angle, the end result being that the main part of the tower is slightly bent. Around 1350, Tommaso di Andrea da Pontedera completed the magniﬁcent stack of marble and granite arcades by crowning it with a bell chamber, set closer to the perpendicular than the storeys below it, so that it looks like a hat set at a rakish angle. By 1990 the tower was leaning 4.5m from the upright and nearing its limits. A huge rescue operation was then launched, which involved wrapping steel bands around the lowest section of the tower, placing 900 tonnes of lead ingots at its base to counterbalance the leaning stonework, removing water and silt from beneath the tower’s foundations, and ﬁnally reinforcing the foundations and walls with steel bars. Eleven years and many millions of euros later, the tower was officially reopened to the public in November 2001. The ascent to the bellchamber takes you up a narrow spiral staircase of 294 steps, at a fairly disorientating ﬁve-degree angle. It’s not for the claustrophobic or those afraid of heights, but you might think the steep admission fee is worth it for the privilege of getting inside one of the world’s most famous and uncanny buildings. The Duomo

Pisa’s breathtaking Duomo (daily: March 10am–6pm; April–Sept 10am–8pm; Oct 10am–7pm; Nov–Feb 10am–12.45pm & 2–5pm; no admittance to tourists before 1pm on Sun; for tickets, see box, p.461) was begun in 1064 and completed around a century later. With its four levels of variegated colonnades and its subtle interplay of dark-grey marble and white stone, the building is the archetype of Pisan-Romanesque, a model often imitated in buildings across Tuscany, but never surpassed. The vast interior is deﬁned by the crisp black-and-white marble of the long arcades, which are suggestive of Moorish architecture. Much of the interior was redecorated, and some of the chapels remodelled, after a ﬁre in 1595, but a notable survivor is the apse mosaic Christ in Majesty, completed by Cimabue in 1302. And don’t miss the pulpit, which Giovanni Pisano began to sculpt in the same year. The last of the great series of three pulpits created in Tuscany by Giovanni and his father Nicola (the others are in Siena and Pistoia), it is a work of amazing virtuosity, its whole surface animated by ﬁgures almost wholly freed from the stone. 462

The Baptistry and the Camposanto

The Baptistry (daily: March 9am–6pm; April–Sept 8am–8pm; Oct 9am–7pm; Nov–Feb 10am–5pm; for tickets, see box, p.461), the largest such building in

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Italy, was begun in 1152 by a certain Diotisalvi (“God Save You”), who left his name on a column to the left of the door; it was continued in the thirteenth century by Nicola and Giovanni Pisano, and completed late in the fourteenth century. Inside you’re immediately struck by the plainness of the vast interior (the acoustics are astonishing, as the guard will demonstrate), but take time to look closely at Nicola Pisano’s beautiful pulpit, sculpted in 1260, half a century before his son’s work in the cathedral. The screen of sepulchral white marble running along the north edge of the Campo dei Miracoli is the perimeter wall of what has been called the most beautiful cemetery in the world – the Camposanto (same hours as Baptistry, except June–Aug daily 8am–11pm; for tickets, see box, p.461). According to legend, the Archbishop Ubaldo Lanfranchi had Pisan knights on the Fourth Crusade of 1203 bring a cargo of soil back to Pisa from the hill of Golgotha, in order that eminent Pisans might be buried in holy earth. The building enclosing this sanctiﬁed site was completed almost a century later and takes the form of an enormous Gothic cloister. However, when Ruskin described the Camposanto as one of the most precious buildings in Italy, it was the frescoes that he was praising. Paintings once covered over two thousand square metres of cloister wall, but now the brickwork is mostly bare: incendiary bombs dropped by Allied planes on July 27, 1944, set the rooﬁng on ﬁre and drenched the frescoes in molten lead. The most important survivor is the remarkable Triumph of Death cycle, now displayed in a room attached to the cloister. The museums of the Campo dei Miracoli

The Museo dell’Opera del Duomo (same hours as Baptistry; for tickets, see box, p.461) is a vast array of statuary from the Duomo and Baptistry, plus ecclesiastical ﬁnery, paintings and other miscellaneous pieces. Highlights include the extraordinary bronze doors made for the Duomo by Bonanno Pisano (ﬁrst architect of the Leaning Tower) in 1180, and Giovanni Pisano’s affecting Madonna del Colloquio (Madonna of the Conversation), so called because of the intensity of the gazes exchanged by the Madonna and Child. On the south side of the Campo, the only gap in the souvenir stalls is for the Museo delle Sinopie (same hours as Baptistry; for tickets, see box, p.461). After the damage wreaked on the Camposanto, restorers removed its sinopie (the sketches over which frescoes are painted) and these great plates of plaster now hang from the walls of this high-tech museum. Piazza dei Cavalieri to the Museo Nazionale

If you have time for a wider exploration of the city, head ﬁrst for Piazza dei Cavalieri, the central civic square of medieval Pisa, which opens unexpectedly from the narrow backstreets to the southeast of the Campo. Covered in monochrome sgraffiti and topped with busts of the Medici, the Palazzo dei Cavalieri is next to the church of Santo Stefano, which still houses banners captured from Turkish ships by the Knights of St Stephen – a grand title for a gang of state-sponsored pirates. On the other side of the square is the Renaissance-adapted Palazzo dell’Orologio, in whose tower the military leader Ugolino della Gherardesca was starved to death with his sons and grandsons in 1208, as punishment for his alleged duplicity with the Genoese enemy – the grisly episode is described in Dante’s Inferno and Shelley’s Tower of Famine. From here Via Dini heads east to the arcaded Borgo Stretto, Pisa’s smartest street; Pisa’s market area is west of here, on Piazza Vettovaglie and the narrow streets that surround it (Mon–Fri all day, Sun morning only). The Borgo meets the river at Piazza Garibaldi, at the foot of the Ponte di Mezzo. East of Piazza Garibaldi, on Lungarno Mediceo, is the Museo Nazionale di San Matteo (Tues–Sat 9am–7pm, Sun 9am–2pm; €5, €8 with Palazzo Reale),

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where most of the major works of art from Pisa’s churches are now gathered. Best of the paintings are polyptychs by Simone Martini and Francesco Traini, a panel of St Paul by Masaccio, Gentile da Fabriano’s Madonna of Humility, and a trio of works by Gozzoli; among the sculptures, two masterpieces stand out – Donatello’s reliquary bust of the introspective St Rossore, and Andrea and Nino Pisano’s Madonna del Latte, a touchingly crafted work showing Mary breastfeeding the baby Jesus. The museum also has a stash of ﬁne Middle Eastern ceramics pilfered by Pisan adventurers. The western quarters

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Due south of the Camposanto you’ll ﬁnd the Orto Botanico (Mon–Fri 8.30am– 5.30pm, Sat 8.30am–1pm; €2.50); founded in 1543, this is the oldest university botanical garden in the world. On the east side of the garden, Via Santa Maria crooks its way south to meet the river alongside the second of Pisa’s leaning towers, the campanile of San Nicola, which starts off cylindrical, then becomes octagonal, and ﬁnally hexagonal. Alongside San Nicola, fronting the Arno at Lungarno Pacinotti 46, is the Museo Nazionale di Palazzo Reale (Mon–Fri 9am–2.30pm, Sat 9am–1pm; €5, €8 with Museo Nazionale di San Matteo), displaying artefacts that once belonged to the Medici, Lorraine and Savoy rulers of the city, who successively occupied the house. Lavish sixteenth-century Flemish tapestries share space with antique weaponry, ivory miniatures, porcelain and a largely undistinguished picture collection; the best-known painting, Bronzino’s portrait of Eleanora di Toledo, is displayed alongside a dress that belonged to her. Further along the river, on the Lungarno Simonelli, lies the Arsenale Mediceo. Built by Cosimo I, it is being converted into the Museo delle Navi Romane, expected to open in 2011, and will house sixteen Roman ships which have been excavated since 1998 from the silt at nearby San Rossore. Almost perfectly preserved in mud for two millennia, the cargo-laden ﬂeet includes what experts believe could be the oldest Roman warship ever found. Just west of the arsenal rises the Torre Guelfa della Cittadella Vecchia, or Fortezza Vecchia (currently closed for restoration). This ancient fortress, originally built in the thirteenth century, once stood guard over Pisa’s harbour but now punctuates an otherwise little-explored district; the view from the tower is spectacular.

The Gioco del Ponte and other festivals

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Pisa’s big traditional event is the Gioco del Ponte, held on the last Sunday of June, when twelve teams from the north and south banks of the city stage a series of “push-of-war” battles, shoving a seven-tonne carriage over the Ponte di Mezzo. First recorded in 1568, the contest and attendant parades are still held in Renaissance costume. Other celebrations – concerts, regattas, art events – are held throughout June as part of the Giugno Pisano (W www.giugnopisano.com), during which the city has a distinctly festive feel. The most spectacular event is the Luminara di San Ranieri (June 16), when buildings along both river banks are lit by 70,000 candles in honour of Pisa’s patron saint, and there’s a ﬁreworks display at midnight. At 6.30pm the following evening, the various quarters of the city compete in the Palio di San Ranieri, a boat race along the Arno. Italy’s four great maritime republics (Amalﬁ, Pisa, Genoa and Venice) take turns to host the Regata delle Antiche Repubbliche Marinare at the end of May or beginning of June. Four eight-man crews from each of the cities race against each other, in between festivities and parades.

Keith Haring in Pisa The last work of artist Keith Haring, a huge mural in his trademark bold lines and vivid colours, can be admired behind the church of Sant’Antonio near the train station. The mural was commissioned by the city council, and Haring travelled to Pisa from New York especially to paint it in June 1989, completing it in just one week. Nearly a quarter of a century on, the colours have faded a little but the mural is still an appealing – and unexpected, given its location – piece of modern street art.

South of the river

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West of the Ponte di Mezzo, the line of palazzi on the south bank is enlivened by the brightly hued Palazzo Blu (Tues–Sun 10am–8pm; free, or charge for exhibitions; W www.palazzoblu.org), which opened in 2009 after a lengthy restoration. It holds a permanent collection of regional art from the fourteenth to the twentieth centuries, as well as occasional big-name exhibitions on the ground ﬂoor. Further along the lungarno, just before the Ponte Solferino, is the oratory of Santa Maria della Spina (Mon–Fri 10am–1.30pm & 2.30–5pm, Sat & Sun 10am–7pm; €1.50). Founded in 1230 but rebuilt in the 1320s by a merchant who had acquired one of the thorns (spine) of Christ’s crown, this effervescent little church is the ﬁnest ﬂourish of Pisan-Gothic. Originally built closer to the water, it was moved here for fear of ﬂoods in 1871. The single-naved interior has lost most of its furnishings, but contains a trio of statues by Andrea and Nino Pisano.

Eating and drinking Pisa’s proximity to the coast means that seafood is the staple of its restaurant menus, with baccalà alla Pisana (dried cod in tomato sauce) and pesce spada (swordﬁsh) featuring prominently. Avoid the temptation to eat at one of the plethora of places in the vicinity of the Campo dei Miracoli – aimed squarely at the tourist trade, they are generally of poor quality. The streets around the Borgo Stretto and Ponte di Mezzo are the place for an evening drink, while studenty Piazza delle Vettovaglie also has plenty of lively bars. Cafés, bars and gelaterie Bazeel Piazza Garibaldi 15. Currently Pisa’s afterdark hangout of choice, with DJs and live music. La Bottega del Gelato Piazza Garibaldi 11. The best ice cream in town is served at this riverside gelateria, with appreciative crowds ﬁlling the piazza outside all day long. Daily noon–1am; closed Wed in winter. Pasticceria Salza Borgo Stretto 46. The bestknown café-pasticceria in Pisa, and rightly so; it has a restaurant section at the back, but the coffee and cakes are the main reason to come. Try the Pisan speciality torta coi bischeri, a pastry tart made with dark chocolate, dried fruit and pine nuts. Tues–Sun 7.45am–8.30pm.

Restaurants Beny Piazza Gambacorti 22 T050.25.067. This warm and elegant restaurant is a good place for an atmospheric dinner. Fish is the speciality, though the meat dishes are excellent too, with

an emphasis on fresh local produce; even the ostrich which is always on the menu (grilled and ﬂavoured with sage and rosemary) is locally reared. Expect to pay around €50, excluding wine. Mon–Fri 12.45–2.45pm & 7.45–11.50pm, Sat 7.45–11.50pm. Dei Cavalieri Via San Frediano 3 & 16 T050.580.858. The Osteria dei Cavalieri has long served straightforward local food at very reasonable prices; a more reﬁned sister restaurant, La Sosta dei Cavalieri (T050.991.2410) has now opened over the road at no. 3, offering secondi such as rabbit in a bread crust with a black bean sauce (€16). Three-course lunch menus at La Sosta start at €20 – excellent value – while at the osteria you can have a big meal of Tuscan specialities for about €30. La Sosta is open Mon–Sat 12.30–2.30pm & 7.45–10.30pm; the osteria closes 30min earlier at lunch and dinner. Il Signor Mimmo Via Cavalca 44 T050.543.344. A relaxed spot for lunch, with a handful of outdoor

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tables and a daily-changing menu of four primi and four secondi, displayed tavola calda-style; you can eat well for under €20. Dinner is more formal, with dishes such as roast pork with cabbage in an apple vinegar and honey sauce (€12). Summer: Mon–Fri noon–3pm & 7–11pm, Sat 7–11pm; winter: Mon & Tues noon–3pm, Wed–Fri noon–3pm & 7–11pm, Sat 7–11pm. La Clessidra Via del Castelletto 26–30 T 050.540.160. Tucked away in an obscure alley parallel to Via San Frediano, La Clessidra offers a small but elegant menu of classic Tuscan dishes,

with tasting menus at €32–35 for four courses, as well as cheese and cold meat menus – a sommelier is on hand to suggest suitable pairings. Mon–Sat 7.30pm–midnight. La Ghiotteria Vicolo delle Donzelle 9–11 T348.406.4725. The ideal place for a quick but satisfying lunch, La Ghiotteria is tiny, rowdy and very cheap, and serves hearty plates of pasta and simple ﬁsh and meat dishes. A meal will set you back little more than €10, including house wine. Daily noon–4pm & 7pm–midnight; closed Wed in winter.

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The most graceful of Tuscany’s provincial capitals, encircled by an imposing ring of Renaissance walls fronted by gardens and huge bastions, LUCCA stands 17km northeast of Pisa. Charming and quiet out of season, Lucca’s narrow streets become busier in summer, without ever being as thronged as those of Florence or Siena. Set at the heart of one of Italy’s richest agricultural regions, Lucca has prospered since Roman times. Its heyday was the eleventh to fourteenth centuries, when the silk trade brought wealth and political power. Lucca ﬁrst lost its independence to Pisa in 1314, then, under Castruccio Castracani, forged an empire in the west of Tuscany. Pisa and Pistoia both fell, and, but for Castracani’s untimely death in 1325, Lucca might well have taken Florence. In subsequent centuries it remained largely independent until falling into the hands of Napoleon and then the Bourbons. Composer Giacomo Puccini was born here in 1858. Today Lucca is among the wealthiest and most conservative cities in Tuscany, its prosperity gained largely through silk and high-quality olive oil.

Arrival, information and accommodation Lucca’s train station (T 1478.88.088) is just south of the city walls, on Piazza Ricasoli. Frequent buses from Florence, Pisa and Livorno arrive just inside the western stretch of walls, in Piazzale Verdi. Driving within the walls can be a nightmare; thanks to an intricate one-way system, many speciﬁc spots can only be reached if you enter the town in the right place. If you’re heading for a hotel, ask the management for directions, or call in ﬁrst at the helpful main tourist office, on the north side of town at Piazza Santa Maria 35 (daily: April–Sept 9am–7pm; Oct–March 9am–5pm; T 0583.919.931, W www.luccaturismo.it). Other tourist offices are located in the Cortile degli Svizzeri, behind Piazza Napoleone (same hours; T 0583.4171), and on Piazzale Verdi (daily: April–Sept 9am–7pm; Oct–March 9am–2pm; T 0583.419.689). Lucca has fewer hotels than you might expect, so it’s worth booking well in advance at almost any time of year. Accommodation is especially limited within the walls, although some good-value private rooms ease the burden (consult the tourist office). Hotels 466

Albergo San Martino Via della Dogana 9 T 0583.469.181, W www.albergosanmartino.it. Cosy little hotel, tucked up an old-town alleyway not far from the Duomo, with exceptionally

helpful staff, spacious en-suite rooms, and bike rental. 3 Alla Corte Degli Angeli Via degli Angeli 23 T 0583.469.204, W www.allacortedegliangeli.it. Charming, romantic family-run hotel, within

Viareggio

ACCOMMODATION Albergo San Martino Alla Corte Degli Angeli A Palazza Busdraghi Diana La Luna La Romea La Torre Melecchi Ostello San Frediano Piccolo Hotel Puccini

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the walled town on its northern side; the ten comfortable rooms have frescoed walls, and exposed beams. 4 A Palazza Busdraghi Via Fillungo 170 T 0583.950.856, W www.apalazzo busdraghi.it. Ravishing and very central little boutique hotel; each of its seven antique-furnished rooms has a luxurious bathroom with jacuzzi. 6 Diana Via del Molinetto 11 T 0583.492.202, W www.albergodiana.com. A block west of the Duomo, this unfussy, somewhat austere place has seven double rooms with private bathroom and two singles without. 2 La Luna Corte Compagni 12 T 0583.493.634, W www.hotellaluna.com. Smart and welcoming 29-room three-star inside the walls, with varying but characterful rooms ranged around an internal courtyard and free parking. Closed Jan to mid-Feb. 4 La Romea Vicolo delle Ventaglie 2 T 0583.464.175, W www.laromea.com. This friendly B&B, in a fourteenth-century palazzo just off Via San Andrea, is one of Lucca’s most sophisticated options. Five pretty, intimate rooms, and an excellent breakfast, served in the spacious hall. 4

La Torre reception at Piazza del Carmine 11 T0583.957.044, Wwww.roomslatorre.com. Five appealing double rooms, not all en-suite, just off Piazza del Carmine in a quiet part of the walled town. The same owners run two other outlets, Torre 2 and Torre 3, at Via della Columbaia and Via Sant’Andrea, with similarly good rooms, and also offer beds in a mixed dorm at €20 per person. 1–2 Melecchi Via Romana 37 T0583.950.234, Wwww.hotelmelecchi.it. Good-value if somewhat bland two-star, not far outside the walls; ten rooms with adequate en-suite facilities, plus a nice sunny terrace and private parking. 2 Piccolo Hotel Puccini Via di Poggio 9 T0583.55.421, Wwww.hotelpuccini.com. Very friendly, central three-star, just steps from the Casa di Puccini and San Michele, with 14 standard but well-priced en-suite rooms. 3

Hostel Ostello San Frediano Via della Cavallerizza 12 T0583.469.957, W www.ostellolucca.it. Lucca’s one HI hostel, conveniently located just inside the walls. Very simple rooms, with a nice garden and shared spaces. Midnight curfew; €19, double rooms 2

The City Lucca is a delightful place in which to wander at random; while workaday and even scruffy in parts, it’s consistently lovely, and full of life. Much of the centre is free from traffic, although you will have to keep any eye out for the many cyclists weaving through the crowds (plenty of outlets rent bikes if you wish to join them). While the focus of Lucca’s compact centro storico is the vast Piazza Napoleone, its social heart is Piazza San Michele just to the north. The “long thread”, Via Fillungo, heads northeast to the extraordinary circular Piazza Anﬁteatro, while farther east, beyond the Fosso (“ditch”), lies San Francesco and Lucca’s major art museum, housed in the Villa Guinigi. Whatever else you do, be sure to walk – or cycle – some or all of the city walls, which are crested by a broad, tree-lined promenade. San Michele and around

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The historical heart of town, and once the site of the Roman forum, Piazza San Michele is these days a lively square fringed with shops and cafés. Its daily market (clothes, bags, sweets, tourist knick-knacks, etc) sits alongside San Michele in Foro (daily 9am–noon & 3–6pm, closes 5pm in winter; free), a church with one of Tuscany’s most exquisite facades. Most of the present structure dates from the century following 1070, but the church is unﬁnished, as the money ran out before the body of the building could be raised to the level of the facade. The effect is wonderful, the upper loggias and the windows fronting air. Its Pisan-inspired intricacy is a triumph of poetic eccentricity: each of its myriad columns is different – some twisted, others sculpted or candy-striped. The impressive campanile is Lucca’s tallest. It would be hard to follow this act and the interior barely tries; the best work of art is a beautifully framed painting called Saints Jerome, Sebastian, Roch and Helena by Filippino Lippi in the right-hand nave.

The composer Giacomo Puccini was born about a block away, on December 22, 1858, at Corte San Lorenzo 9; his father and grandfather had both been organists at San Michele. The family home, the Casa di Puccini (W www.puccini.it), has been closed for renovation for several years. A short way west, the Museo Nazionale di Palazzo Mansi is at Via Galli Tassi 43 (Tues–Sat 8.30am–7.30pm; €4; joint ticket with Museo Guinigi €6.50; W www.luccamuseinazionali.it). This seventeenth-century palazzo is worth seeing for its magniﬁcent Rococo decor: from a vast, frescoed Music Salon, you pass through three drawing rooms hung with seventeenth-century Flemish tapestries to a gilded bridal suite, complete with lavish canopied bed. Rooms 11–14 in the far wing hold an eclectic Pinacoteca, the highlights of which are Pontormo’s portrait of Alessandro de’ Medici, and Sienese Mannerist works by Domenico Beccafumi and Rutilio Manetti. The Duomo and around TUS C ANY

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It needs a double-take before you realize why the Duomo (also known as the Cattedrale di San Martino) looks odd. A severely asymmetric façade fronts the building – its right-hand arch and loggias are squeezed by the bell tower, which was already in place from an earlier building. Little however detracts from its overall grandeur, created by the repetition of tiny columns and loggias and by the stunning atrium, with its magniﬁcent bas-reliefs. The carvings over the left-hand door – a Deposition, Annunciation, Nativity and Adoration of the Magi – are by Nicola Pisano. Other panels display a symbolic labyrinth, a Tree of Life (with Adam and Eve at the bottom and Christ at the top), a bestiary of grotesques and the months of the year. The interior (mid-March to Oct Mon–Fri 9.30am–5.45pm, Sat 9.30am–6.45pm, Sun 9.30–10.45am & noon–6pm; Nov to mid-March Mon–Fri 9.30am–4.45pm, Sat 9.30am–6.45pm, Sun 9.30–10.45am & noon–5pm; free) is best known for the work of sculptor Matteo Civitali (1435–1501). His most celebrated contribution is the Tempietto, a gilt-and-marble octagon halfway down the church. Fanatically intense acts of devotion are performed in front of it, directed at the Volto Santo (Holy Face) within, a cedarwood cruciﬁx with bulging eyes and dark brown skin popularly said to be a true effigy of Christ carved by Nicodemus, an eyewitness to the Cruciﬁxion. Legend has it that the Volto Santo came to Lucca of its own volition, ﬁrst journeying by boat from the Holy Land, and then brought by oxen guided by divine will. The effigy attracted pilgrims from all over Europe, including kings – William II of England used to swear by it (“Per sanctum vultum de Lucca!”). The Tomb of Ilaria del Carretto (1410) in the sacristy (W www.museo cattedralelucca.it; same hours as Duomo; €2, or €6 with Museo della Cattedrale and church of San Giovanni) is considered the masterpiece of Sienese sculptor Jacopo della Quercia. It consists of a raised dais and the sculpted body of Ilaria, second wife of Paolo Guinigi, one of Lucca’s medieval big-shots. In a touching, almost sentimental gesture, the artist has carved the family dog at her feet. Also within the sacristy is a superb Madonna Enthroned by Ghirlandaio. The Museo della Cattedrale occupies a converted twelfth-century building opposite the Duomo (mid-March to Oct daily 10am–6pm; Nov to mid-March Mon–Fri 10am–2pm, Sat & Sun 10am–5pm; €4, or €6 with the cathedral sacristy & San Giovanni). As well as some unnerving Romanesque stone heads, human and equine, it holds, in Room II on the upper ﬂoor, a reliquary from Limoges decorated with stories from the life of St Thomas à Becket alongside the Croce dei Pisani, an ornate ﬁfteenth-century gold cruciﬁx. West of the Duomo, what was originally Lucca’s cathedral until 715 is now the church of San Giovanni

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(same hours, except Mon–Fri, from Nov to mid-March, is by appointment only; €2.50, combined ticket with Tomb of Ilaria & Museo della Cattedrale €6). Excavations here have unearthed a tangle of remains, from Roman mosaics to traces of a Carolingian church. North to San Frediano

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Via Cenami leads from the Duomo north to the Torre delle Ore, the city’s clock tower since 1471. From here, Via Fillungo cuts through Lucca’s luxury shopping district. San Frediano, between Via Fillungo and the northwest city walls, is again PisanRomanesque, featuring the magniﬁcent thirteenth-century exterior mosaic Christ in Majesty, with the Apostles gathered below. A delicately lit, hall-like basilica, the interior (Mon–Sat 9am–noon & 3–5pm, Sun 9am–noon & 3–6pm; closed during services; free) lives up to the promise of the facade. Facing the door, the Fonta Lustrale is a huge twelfth-century font executed by three unknown craftsmen. An Annunciation by Andrea della Robbia, behind the font, is festooned with trailing garlands of ceramic fruit. The left-hand of the two rear chapels houses the apparently incorrupt body of St Zita (died 1278), a Lucchese maidservant who achieved sainthood by means of a white lie: she used to give bread from her household to the poor, and when challenged one day by her boss as to the contents of her apron, she replied “only roses and ﬂowers” – into which the bread was transformed. On April 27, a ﬂower market outside the church commemorates her. Lucca’s ﬁnest frescoes – Amico Aspertini’s sixteenth-century scenes of the Arrival of the Volto Santo, The Life of St Augustine and The Miracle of St Frediano – occupy the second chapel of the left aisle. Frediano, an Irish monk, is said to have brought Christianity to Lucca in the sixth century and is depicted here saving the city from ﬂood. A short distance west, at Via degli Asili 33, the Palazzo Pfanner (April–Oct daily except Wed 10am–6pm; garden or palace €4, both €5.50) houses a collection of textiles. More interesting are its rear loggia and exquisite statued gardens with fountain. They can be seen to good effect from the city walls just nearby, which also yield a good overview of another ﬁne church, Sant’Agostino. The remarkable Piazza Anﬁteatro, east of San Frediano, is a ramshackle circuit of medieval buildings that was built on the foundations of a Roman amphitheatre – the original arches and columns can still be discerned – and is now ringed by cafés. South beyond a covered market, the bizarre Torre Guinigi, a castellated tower that once belonged to Lucca’s leading ﬁfteenth-century family, is surmounted, 44m up, by a holm oak whose roots have grown into the room below. You can climb the tower from Via Sant’Andrea (daily: March & Oct 9.30am–5.30pm; April & May 9.30am–6.30pm; June–Sept 9.30am–7.30pm; Nov–Feb 9.30am–4.30pm; €3.50). East to San Francesco

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Paralleled by Via del Fosso, a canal crosses Lucca from north to south. On its far side, the church of San Francesco (usually open mornings only) is fronted by a relatively simple facade and adjoins a crumbling brick convent. Behind the church Lucca’s key collection of painting, sculpture, furniture and applied arts is housed in the Guinigi family’s much-restored mansion, the Museo Nazionale di Villa Guinigi (Tues–Sat 8.30am–7.30pm; €4, or €6.50 combined ticket with Palazzo Mansi). Its lower ﬂoor holds mainly sculpture and archeological ﬁnds, with numerous Romanesque pieces and works by della Quercia and Matteo Civitali. Upstairs, the gallery moves on to paintings, with several enormous sixteenth-century canvases, and more impressive works by early Lucchese and Sienese masters, as well as ﬁne Renaissance offerings from such as Fra’ Bartolommeo.

Eating, drinking and entertainment

Cafés, bars and gelaterie

Restaurants Buatino Borgo Giannotti T0583.343.207. Outside the city walls, 1km north of Piazzale Martiri della Libertà, but worth the walk. Unassuming from the outside, but tremendous food and a friendly, informal vibe with occasional live jazz. Menus change daily; reckon on €20 for a full meal. Closed Sun.

Buca di Sant’Antonio Via della Cervia 3 T0583.55.881, Wwww.bucadisantantonio.it. Lucca’s ﬁnest restaurant, in this spot since at least 1782, abounds in old-world charm. Excellent service, top-quality meat or ﬁsh menu and delicious house pasta and desserts such as semifreddo Buccellato. Lunch menu at €20, dinner can easily be double that. Closed Sun eve & Mon; booking essential. Da Giulio in Pelleria Via della Conce 45 T0583.55.948. This classic trattoria is always packed in the evenings – the food is not exceptional, but the prices are very reasonable (primi from €5, secondi €5 and up) and the atmosphere makes it worth it. Dinner only, except Sat lunch; closed Sun. Locanda di Bacco Via San Giorgio 36 T0583.493.136. Set in a lovely wood-panelled building, this local favourite serves quality meals to suit any palate, with the usual meat and ﬁsh but also a vegetarian menu at €28, a vegan one at €23, and a light €14 option. Closed Tues and periods in Feb & Nov. Osteria Baralla Via Anﬁteatro 5 T0583.440.240. This much-loved traditional osteria serves simple local food in a pair of vaulted dining rooms, with a cheap café menu and a full €35 tasting menu on weekends. Occasional live music. Closed Sun. Puccini Corte San Lorenzo 1 T 0583.316.676, W www.ristorantepuccini.it. Opposite the composer’s house, this place has a light touch and classy approach to such dishes as macaroni with chestnuts and mushrooms. It’s not cheap (primi €12–15, secondi €14–19), but is the top choice for a lunch to remember or a romantic dinner date. Closed Tues & Wed lunch in summer, all day Tues in winter.

| Lucca

Buccellato Taddeucci Piazza San Michele 34 T 0583.494.933. A stunning interior of wood panelling and mosaic tiles matches the selection of cakey delights and great coffee. Caffè del Mercato Piazza San Michele 17. Among the most alluring of the bars around the main piazza, kept nice and shady by the church at lunchtime. Caffè di Simo Via Fillungo 58 T 0583.496.234. Lucca’s most famous café-bar was Puccini’s favourite haunt and retains an appealing, late nineteenth-century ambience. It serves a decent array of cakes as well as a few simple hot dishes for €6–8. Live jazz on Fridays. Gelateria Veneta Via Vittorio Veneto 74 T 0583.493.727. Serving Lucca’s ﬁnest ice cream since 1927, daily until 1am; they also have several other local outlets. Closed Nov–Feb. Girovita Piazza Antelminelli 2 T 0583.469.412. With tables outside in the quiet piazza opposite the cathedral, trendy Girovita is the place to come for an aperitivo or a lengthy afternoon coffee; it also has free wi-ﬁ. Closed Mon. Vineria I Santi Via dell’Anﬁteatro 29/A. T0583.496.124. A simple menu of inventive, well-prepared dishes, like zucchini stuffed with ricotta, accompanies the wine list at this bar, which has tables outside on a small piazza behind the amphitheatre. Closed Wed.

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Lucca has a number of high-quality restaurants. Keep an eye out for local specialities such as zuppa di farro, a thick soup made with spelt (a type of grain); torta di spinaci, a sweet spinach tart; and capretto, mountain goat, often roasted. The town’s food shops are equally good and make great places to stock up for a picnic: Caniparoli in Via San Paolina is a standout chocolate shop. The Lucchese Settembre festival features plenty of activity throughout September, centred on a candlelit procession on the 13th, when the bejewelled Volto Santo (see p.469) is carried through the streets from San Frediano to the Duomo. Consult the tourist office for details of affiliated September events, such as classical concerts (including performances of a Puccini opera) at the intimate, four-tiered Teatro Comunale in Piazza del Giglio, as well as jazz gigs and art exhibitions. Another key musical event is July’s Summer Festival (W www .summer-festival.com) in which big-name international stars perform, some for free, in Piazza Napoleone.

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North of Pisa A solid strip of unattractive beach resorts stretches north along the coast from near Pisa to the Ligurian border. This Riviera della Versilia ought to be something more special, given the dramatic backdrop of the Alpi Apuane, but the beaches share the coastal plain with a railway, autostrada and clogged urban roads, while the sea itself is far from being the cleanest in Italy. The resort of Viareggio provides a lively diversion on a coastal journey north to the stunning Cinque Terre. Otherwise, the only real appeal lies inland, exploring the famed marblequarrying centre of Carrara.

Viareggio

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| North of Pisa

Tuscany’s largest seaside resort, VIAREGGIO, 22km northwest of Pisa, may feature on few independent travellers’ itineraries – everyone wants picturesque former ﬁshing villages and converted farmhouses these days – but it does still cling to a certain stately elegance. The real problem for visitors is that the sheer demand keeps prices alarmingly high in summer, when many hotels insist on at least half board. Apart from a free stretch south of town towards Torre del Lago, most of the beach has been parcelled up into private strips, enabling the hotels to charge €20 or more for a day’s use of a sun lounger and parasol. Life in Viareggio centres on the grand seafront boulevard, Viale Regina Margherita; locals and visitors alike promenade each night beneath the palm trees that line this three-kilometre thoroughfare. Interspersed among its imposing old hotels are several ﬁne Art Nouveau frontages, as well as a plentiful array of bars and restaurants. On a balmy summer evening, the ensemble has a strip-like neon-lit aesthetic more American in feel than Tuscan. To see Viareggio at its liveliest, come for its famously boisterous Carnevale in February, when for four consecutive Sundays it stages an amazing parade of ﬂoats, or carri – colossal, lavishly designed papier-mâché models of politicians and celebrities (W www.viareggio.ilcarnevale.com). The train station is ten minutes’ walk inland from the seafront. Buses stop nearer the centre, on Piazza d’Azeglio and Piazza Mazzini. The tourist office faces the sea just north of Piazza Mazzini, at Viale Carducci 10 (Mon–Sat 9am–2pm & 3–7pm, Sun 9am–2pm; T 0584.962.233, W www.aptversilia.it). Viareggio holds literally hundreds of hotels in all price brackets; the nicest reasonably priced option in the heart of town is the Tirrenia, just south of the tourist office at Via San Martino 23 (T 0584.49.641, W www.tirreniahotel.com; 3 ). The best local restaurant is the Michelin-starred Romano, Via Mazzini 120 (T 0584.31.382; closed Mon plus lunch Tues in July & Aug), which specializes in sublime ﬁsh and seafood.

Carrara

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The capital of Massa-Carrara, Tuscany’s northernmost province, is Massa, a modern town that has more or less merged with its adjacent beach resort of Marina di Massa in a sprawl of undistinguished holiday development. Nearby CARRARA sits just inside the Ligurian border, 28km north of Viareggio, and enjoys a fame that far outstrips its modest size. Ever since the Roman era, the mountains here have been a principal source of marble; everyone from Michelangelo to Henry Moore has tramped up here in search of the perfect stone. Despite ﬁerce modern competition from Brazil and India, Carrara still ranks among the world’s largest producers and exporters of marble, shipping out a million tonnes a year from the container port in the middle of Marina di Carrara. But quiet Carrara itself has a pleasant, rural feel and comes as a relief after the holiday coast.

Practicalities

| North of Pisa

Regular buses from Carrara-Avenza train station, close to the Marina di Carrara seafront, run 4km inland to Carrara’s central Piazza Matteotti. Carrara itself has a tourist office at Via XX Settembre 46 (Mon–Sat: April & May 9am–5pm; June– Aug 9am–1pm & 4–7.30pm; Sept–March 9am–1pm & 3–5pm; T 0585.844.403, W www.aptmassacarrara.it). In summer, Navigazione Golfo dei Poeti runs boats to Portovenere and the Cinque Terre from Marina di Carrara ( June–Sept daily; around €20; W www.navigazionegolfodeipoeti.it).

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From the central Piazza Matteotti, the pedestrianized Via Roma heads north to the attractive Piazza Accademia, with steps down (west) to the old town and Carrara’s Romanesque-Gothic Duomo, adorned with a lovely Pisan-style marble facade. Gracious Piazza Alberica, at the heart of the old town, is the focus for a biennial display of contemporary marble sculpture, the Scolpire all’Aperto (late July to early Oct), when internationally renowned artists arrive to create new works in public. To get the full low-down on marble, call in at the impressive Museo Civico di Marmo on Viale XX Settembre, 2km south of town (daily: May–Sept 9.30am–1pm & 3.30–6pm; Oct–April 9am–12.30pm & 2.30–5pm; €4.50). Any short trip into the interior brings you to the startling sight of the marble quarries. To get a closer view, head up the twisting road towards Colonnata, 8km northeast of Carrara, and look out for the Cava di Marmo signs before you reach the village; hourly buses run from Via Minzoni. Once there, you’re confronted by a huge, blindingly white marble basin, its ﬂoor and sides perfectly squared by the enormous wire saws used to cut the blocks that litter the surroundings.

Ferries from Livorno The major, mostly modern port city of Livorno, 18km southwest of Pisa, holds little of interest for most casual visitors. However, dozens of ferries sail from here to Corsica (Bastia or Porto Vecchio), Sardinia (Olbia, Golfo Aranci or Cágliari), Sicily (Palermo) and the Tuscan Islands. Nearly all ferries to Corsica and Sardinia leave from alongside the Stazione Maríttima, west of the centre behind the Fortezza Vecchia, although some depart from Varco Galvani, a long way west of town, along with boats to Sicily. Ferries to Capraia leave from the central Porto Mediceo. For times and prices, check the various companies’ websites, or at the tourist ofﬁce (on Piazza Municipio); reserve well ahead in summer. If you’re taking a car to Sardinia, note that most companies offer discount deals if you cross to Corsica and drive the 180km to the southern tip of the Island – and often the subsequent ferry to Sardinia is free. For a full list of ferries to Sardinia, see p.953, and to Elba, see p.474.

Ferry companies Corsica Ferries/Sardinia Ferries Stazione Maríttima, Calata Carrara T 199.400.500, W www.Corsica-ferries.it. To Bastia (Corsica) and Golfo Aranci (Sardinia). Corsica Maríttima Stazione Maríttima, Calata Carrara T0586.210.507. To Bastia, Porto Vecchio (both Corsica), and Olbia (Sardinia). Grandi Navi Veloci (Grimaldi) Varco Galvani, Calata Tripoli, Porto Nuovo T 06.4208.3567, Wwww.grimaldi-ferries.it. To Barcelona. Moby Stazione Maríttima, Calata Carrara T0586.899.950, Wwww.moby.it. To Bastia, (Corsica), Olbia (Sardinia) and Toulon. Toremar Porto Mediceo T892.123 or 0586.224.511, Wwww.toremar.it. To Gorgona and Capraia.

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The best place to stay in central Carrara is the thoroughly modernized four-star Hotel Michelangelo, Corso Carlo Rosselli 3 (T 0585.777.161, W www.michelangelo carrara.it; 3 ), with parking, or try the delightful rural B&B, Galeria Ars Apua, Via Antica Bergiola 19 (T 0585.70.496, W www.g-arsapua.com; 2 ), in the hills nearby. Down on the seafront between Marina di Carrara and Marina di Massa, there’s an HI hostel, Albergo Apuano, at Via delle Pinete 237 (T 0585.780.034, E [email protected]; mid-March to mid-Sept; curfew 11.30pm; €12), with plenty of campsites nearby. The pick of the restaurants in Carrara is the Osteria della Contrada, Via Ulivi 2 (T 0585.776.961; closed Mon), which serves simple but tasty regional cooking; while up in Colonnata, the Venanzio, Piazza Palestro 3 (T 0585.750.033, W www .ristorantevenanzio.com; closed Sun eve & Thurs; booking essential), is an absolute treat, where you can expect to spend around €40 for a sensational meal. TUS C ANY

Elba

| Elba

Nearly 30km long by some 20km wide, mountainous ELBA is Italy’s third-largest island. Ever since Napoleon was exiled here, it has been captivating visitors. It has exceptionally clear water, ﬁne white-sand beaches, and a lush, wooded interior, superb for walking; almost everyone, including a recent surge of package tourists, comes for the beach resorts, so the inland villages remain largely quiet even in the height of summer. Portoferraio is very much the capital, an attractive port overlooked by a warren of old alleys. Elsewhere, the most attractive towns are Capoliveri and Porto Azzurro in the southeast and little Marciana in the west,

Ferries to Elba The main port of departure to Elba is Piombino, 75km south of Livorno – not a great place to spend any time, since it was ﬂattened in World War II and these days makes its living from a giant steelworks. If you’re arriving by train, you’ll probably have to change at Campiglia Maríttima station, and catch a connecting train to Piombino Maríttima. The ferry terminal at the port – the Stazione Maríttima – holds ticket outlets for all ferry companies; it also has ample parking, albeit expensive. Most Elba-bound passengers head to Portoferraio: Toremar, Moby and Blu Navy ferries run every day of the year, with the ﬁrst departure at around 5.15am and the last around 10.30pm. In summer, when there’s a huge ferry every half-hour or so, it’s still best to book well in advance; in low season the frequency drops to more like one every two hours. Precise fares vary according to the season and the day of the week, but the cheapest are on the state-owned Toremar line. In high summer, Toremar charges a typical one-way fare per passenger of €12.90, with a car costing another €30; return fares are double that. Toremar also runs slightly cheaper sailings to Rio Marina on the island’s east coast, though that’s less appealing as a day-trip destination (passengers €8.30, car €30).

Ferry company ofﬁces

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Blu Navy Piombino T 349.007.6956; Calata Italia 8, Portoferraio T 349.007.0276, Wwww.blunavytraghetti.com. Moby Call centre T 199.303.040; Via Ninci 1, Portoferraio Wwww.moby.it. Toremar Piombino T0565.31.100, Wwww.toremar.it; Calata Italia 42, Portoferraio T0565.960.131; Calata Voltoni 20, Rio Marina T0565.962.073; or Via Michelangelo 54, Cavo T0565.949.871.

Punta Nera

P. Polveráia

Marciana

Fetovaia

Seccheto

M. Capanne (1018m)

Cable car

Pomonte

Chiessi

Patresi

Zanca

Sant‘Andrea

S. Ilário in Campo

Cávoli

S. Piero in Campo

Póggio

Marciana Marina

Pianosa

Marina di Campo

La Pila

Prócchio

Scaglieri Biòdola Carpani

Capo di Fonza

Lacona

San Martino

Viticcio

Enfola

Capo di Stella

Nisportino

Punta dei Ripalti

M. Calamita (413m)

Capoliveri

Naregno

Porto Azzurro

Madonna del Monserrato

Rio nell‘ Elba Bagnáia Ottone

Morcone Pareti Innamorata

La Picchiaie

Magazzini

Portoferraio

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ELBA

Livorno

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Capraia

Bastia (Corsica)

Pianosa & Montecristo

Capo d’Arco

0

Piombino

I. Palmaiola

Rio Marina

Cavo

Piombino

2 km

Piombino

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| Elba

the last of these providing access to woodland hikes and the impressive chair lift up to Monte Capanne (1018m). Biodola occupies an idyllic sweeping bay near Portoferraio that is largely free from the island’s otherwise remorseless beach culture. You can also take a ferry from Portoferraio or Porto Azzurro to various smaller islands. Historically, Elba has been well out of the mainstream. The principal industry from ancient times until World War II was mining, especially of iron ore. The Romans wrote of “the Island of good wines” – a reputation Elban wines retain to this day – while control in later centuries passed from Pisa to Genoa and on to the Medici, Spain, Turkey and ﬁnally France. That cosmopolitan mix has left its legacy on both architecture and cultivation. Most people know the island as the place of exile for Napoleon, who, after he was banished here in May 1814, revamped education and the legal system, built roads and modernized the economy before escaping back to France in February 1815. The famous “Hundred Days” that followed culminated in his ﬁnal defeat at Waterloo. All seven Tuscan Islands, and the seas around them, form the Parco Nazionale dell’Arcipelago Toscano, the largest protected marine park in Europe: learn more at the helpful, high-tech information office at Calata Italia 31 (T 0565.919.411, W www.isoleditoscana.it), in Portoferraio. You can also enquire here about visiting the beautiful Island of Pianosa, an uninhabited former military base, with great beaches and abundant wildlife. Getting around Elba

ATL buses serve just about every settlement on the island (timetables on W www .infoelba.com; no service after 8pm). In addition, council minibuses run several times a day between town centres and their outlying beaches in the summer season. Boats are also much used to reach out-of-the-way beaches, and are well advertised at all ports. Renting a bike or a scooter is a good way to explore the island (see p.478), but car rental is less advisable: roads to the beaches and around the resorts get nastily congested in high season, and winter bookings can be hard to come by.

Portoferraio and around Elba’s principal town, PORTOFERRAIO makes a worthwhile day-trip destination from the mainland. If you head straight off to the beaches and resorts, however, you’ll hardly see it; the long, unattractive modern quayside used by the island ferries is well away from the town’s atmospheric old quarter, with its stepped alleys and ancient churches. Arrival, information and accommodation

Boats arriving at Elba slide past the old town to dock at the Calata Italia, close to the island’s tourist office (Mon–Sat 8.15am–7.45pm, Sun 9.30am–12.30pm & 3–6pm; T 0565.914.671, W www.aptelba.it). Other useful online resources include the websites W www.elbalink.it, www.elba.org and www.infoelba.com. Island buses leave from just inland, while a free line, Blu 5, runs to the old town. As visitors tend to disperse around the island, Portoferraio does not have a particularly wide range of accommodation. Elba can however offer a good selection of campsites: see W www.campingelba.net for a full list. Hotels 476

Ape Elbana Salita Cosimo dei Medici 2 T 0565.914.245, W www.ape-elbana.it. This good-value yellow hotel, in the heart of the old town, adorned with and named after Napoleon’s

bee symbol, has pleasantly decorated rooms and welcoming owners. 2 Mare Magazzini T0565.933.069, Wwww.hotelmare .org. Secluded seafront hotel 5km east of Portoferraio around the bay, with its own beach and restaurant. 2

Massimo Calata Italia 23 T0565.914.766, Wwww .elbahotelmassimo.it. While the rooms are nothing special, this 69-room hotel faces the ferry terminal, and is surprisingly inexpensive by local standards. 3 Relais delle Picchiaie La Picchiaie T0565.933.110, Wwww.relaisdellepicchiaie.it. Gorgeous, well-priced hillside retreat, 5km south of town, with spa, pool and very comfortable rooms. 4 Villa Ombrosa Viale De Gasperi 3 T 0565.914.363, W www.villaombrosa.it. Decent, modern mid-range option overlooking a reasonable beach, across the promontory from the ferry port, ten minutes’ walk from the old town. Half-board compulsory in summer 5

Campsites Enfola T 0565.939.001, Wwww.campingenfola.it. A nicely shaded site just west of Portoferraio on the scenic coast road. April to mid-Oct. Lacona Via del Golﬁ 71, Lacona T 0565.964.161, Wwww.camping-lacona.it. The key site in Lacona, Elba’s camping hotspot on the coast 7km south of Portoferraio. It’s set in pine woods a little away from the ﬂat foreshore crowded with bars and discos, and also has apartments and bungalows. Scaglieri T0565.969.940, Wwww.camping scaglieri.it. Lovely position on the hillside above Biodola beach. Also offers bungalows and apartments for rent. April to mid-Oct.

| Elba

Portoferriao’s old town cannot be seen from the ferry dock, but head to the right for around ten minutes, and you’ll reach a short ﬂight of steps that leads to the old quarter’s “back entrance”, the Porta a Terra. From here, steep alleys fan out on different levels; follow Via del Carmine up to the picturesque little tree-shaded Piazza Gramsci, perched above the old port with a café and romantic views. Via Victor Hugo (the novelist spent his boyhood in Portoferraio) continues through another tunnelled gateway up to the highest point of the old quarter and Napoleon’s residence-in-exile, the Villa dei Mulini (Mon & Wed–Sat 9am–7pm, Sun 9am–1pm; €7, or €13 joint three-day ticket with Villa di San Martino). Purpose-built on a well-chosen site with grand views of the bay, the villa is a fair-sized old building, albeit undoubtedly not what the emperor was used to. Inside, you’ll ﬁnd a gallery with Empire-style furniture, a Baroque bedroom with an absurdly over-gilded bed, a library of two thousand books sent over from Fontainebleau, and various items of memorabilia. The peaceful rear garden looks down over the rocky headland. Stepped alleys head down from the villa through the old quarter, passing the arts centre Pinacoteca Foresiana (Tues & Thurs only, 9am–noon; €3), which holds a small collection of paintings and Napoleonic ephemera. Nearby, the heart of the old town is Piazza della Repubblica, lined with cafés. From the adjacent, rather drab Piazza Cavour, the old Medici gate, the Porta a Mare, heads through to the U-shaped port. In the shadow of the Martello tower on the farthest point of the U, the Museo Archeologico (mid-June to mid-Sept daily 9am–2.25pm & 6pm– midnight; mid-Sept to mid-June daily except Thurs 10am–1pm & 3.30–7.10pm; €3) has some fascinating exhibits including jars and amphorae salvaged from Roman shipwrecks, still full of preserved olives and ﬁsh. From the bus station on Viale Elba take bus #1 southwest into the hills for 5km to the Villa di San Martino (Tues–Sat 9am–7pm, Sun 9am–1pm; €7, or €13 joint three-day ticket with Villa dei Mulini). The arrow-straight avenue leading up to the house is designed to impress, even if the villa itself – bought by Napoleon’s sister Elise just before the emperor left the island for good – is a rather chilly affair, with a drab Neoclassical facade enlivened with “N” motifs. The monograms were the idea of Prince Demidoff, husband of Napoleon’s niece, and it was he who created the Napoleonic museum. The interior halls of the palazzo are devoted to temporary art exhibitions. To see Napoleon’s modest summer retreat, head left of the facade to the ticket office, and then up ﬂights of stairs to the back of the site. Of the handful of Empire-style rooms, the best is the Sala Egizio, decorated with Nilotic scenes to commemorate the Egyptian campaign.

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The Town

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Eating and drinking Ape Elbana Salita Cosimo dei Medici 2 T 0565.914.245, W www.ape-elbana.it.The terrace pizzeria outside this central hotel serves goodvalue food, and offers excellent people-watching. Osteria Libertaria Calata Matteotti 12. A very welcome exception to Portoferraio’s largely poor-value restaurants, with some outdoor

tables on the Medici harbourfront. Wonderful seafood, including a fabulous riso nero, at good prices. Closed Mon. Trattoria La Barca Via Guerrazzi 60 T0565.918.036. High-quality Tuscan cuisine, a block back from the waterfront. Closed Wed in winter.

Listings

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| Elba

Bike, scooter, car and boat rental All the main agencies are near the ferry dock, including TWN, Viale Elba 32 (T0565.914.666, Wwww.twn -rent.it), and Rent Chiappi, Calata Italia 30 (T 0565.914.366, Wwww.rentchiappi.it). Cicli Brandi, Via Carducci 33 (T 0565.914.128), is a mountain-bike specialist. From any of these outlets, the per-day rate for a small car is around €45–65, a 50cc scooter €25, a mountain-bike €15, and an ordinary bike €10. A ﬁve-metre boat costs €70–100 a day (no licence needed).

Markets Behind Piazza Cavour is the covered food market (Mon–Sat 7am–1pm & 4–8pm, Sun 7am–1pm) which, aside from fruit and veg, has bottles of Elba’s acclaimed DOC wines, rosso and bianco. The weekly Fri market in Piazza della Repubblica focuses on clothes and bric-a-brac. Parking The car park opposite the bus station on Viale Elba is free. Cars are banned from the old quarter during the summer. Post ofﬁce Piazza della Repubblica in the old town (Mon–Fri 8.15am–7pm, Sat 8.15am–12.30pm).

Around Portoferraio

West of Portoferraio, buses head 7km to ÉNFOLA, a headland ﬂanked by sandy beaches, and then wind above the coast to the village at the end of the road, Viticcio. From here a footpath covers ground inaccessible to vehicles for 2km south across a prominent headland to picturesque SCAGLIERI, fronted by a shop, a bar (which rents bikes and mopeds) and a pizzeria-restaurant. The beaches here are among the best on the island. Just round the bay sits Biodola – little more than a road, a couple of hotels and a superb stretch of white sand. The main town hereabouts, PROCCHIO, lies around the next headland to the south: with its traffic, buzzing bars and shops, it’s no place to get away from it all, but the sea is welcoming and the clean white sand similarly appealing.

Eastern Elba Eastern Elba comprises two tongues of land, each dominated by mountain ridges, and a coastline given over entirely to beach tourism. The main road east from Portoferraio heads through the former mining town of Rio nell’Elba to RIO MARINA. Tourism and ferry links have replaced iron ore as the town’s principal source of revenue; the one hotel, the Rio sul Mare, Via Palestro 31 (T 0565.924.225, W www.hotelriomarina.com; 3 ), overlooks the port from alongside the public gardens. Some boats stop at picturesque CAVO, 9km north of Rio Marina; its clutch of hotels includes the three-star Maristella on the waterfront at Lungomare Kennedy 3 (T 0565.949.859, W www.hotelmaristella.com; April– Sept; 5 ), while La Scogliera (T 0565.949.638) is a good, mid-priced restaurant with tables overlooking the beach. The southeast tip of the island has some good beaches and interesting towns, but is relatively undeveloped. Porto Azzurro and Capoliveri 478

The busy resort of PORTO AZZURRO was heavily fortiﬁed by Philip III of Spain in 1603. Today his fortress is the island’s prison; a walk round the outer ramparts brings you to a shop selling crafts made by the inmates. The town’s small, pretty

old quarter – closed to traffic – centres on bustling Via d’Alarcon. The pick of its unexceptional hotels is the Belmare, Banchina IV Novembre 21 (T 0564.95.012, W www.elba-hotelbelmare.it; 4). The Arrighi campsite north of town at Barbarossa (T 0565.95.568, W www.campingarrighi.it; April–Nov) gives straight onto the beach. Decent local restaurants include the friendly Lo Scoglio, Via Cavour 15 (closed Wed in winter). Plenty of places rent bikes, boats and scooters, while motorboats shuttle across the bay to the sandy beach at Naregno. CAPOLIVERI, 3.5km southwest of Porto Azzurro and overlooked by Monte Calamita, is the nicest town on Elba’s eastern fringe, a prosperous inland centre whose close-knit lanes have made few concessions to tourism. Capoliveri makes an ideal base for visits south to the ﬁne beaches at Morcone, Pareti and Innamorata, but accommodation is limited, with the comfortable two-star Villa Miramare in Pareti (T 0565.968.673, W www.hotelvillamiramare.it; 3 ) the best option. In summer, municipal minibuses run hourly between Capoliveri and nearby beach towns until 1am.

| Elba

The main road west from Portoferraio heads to prim MARCIANA MARINA, whose traffic-ﬁlled promenade of bars, restaurants and trinket shops does little to lure you into staying. Aquavision (T 0328.709.5470, W www.aquavision.it; €20) operates sea crusies from here on the M/N Nautilus, which has glass panels below the waterline. A winding road heads south for 5km into the hills to POGGIO, a village renowned for its mineral water and medieval centre, with decorated doorways and a patchwork of cheerful gardens. The best restaurant here, Da Publius, Piazza XX Settembre 13 (T 0565.99.208; closed Mon), enjoys great views, and charges steep prices for classic Elban cooking.

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Western Elba

Marciana and Monte Capanne

The high, isolated village of MARCIANA, up 4km of switchbacks from Poggio, is the oldest settlement and most alluring spot on Elba, perfectly located between great beaches and the mountainous interior. Its steep old quarter is a delight of narrow alleys, arches, belvederes and stone stairs festooned with ﬂowers and climbing plants that culminate at the twelfth-century Fortezza Pisano (closed to the public, but with great views from its lofty location). The best restaurant is the award-winning Osteria

Walks around Marciana Various walking trails head out from Marciana, both up to Monte Capanne and on scenic, quiet routes down to the coast. Before setting off, pick up the local Comunità Montana map from Portoferraio’s tourist ofﬁce (see p.476). Trail #1 is a circular route starting from the southern end of the village, which passes the ﬁfteenth-century Oratorio di San Cerbone (1hr) and continues beyond the junction with trail #6 and up to the summit of the mountain. Either take the cabinovia down again, or retrace your steps and take trail #6 west across open country to La Stretta, then skirt Monte Giove back to Marciana (total 8.5km; 4hr 30min). A different route heads uphill west of Marciana – the path begins at the Osteria del Noce – for about 30min to the Santuario della Madonna del Monte, the island’s most celebrated shrine, a Renaissance church built to house a stone mysteriously painted with an image of the Virgin. From the church, trail #3 again skirts round Monte Giove to La Stretta, then continues jigging on switchbacks west and down through fragrant woodland and scrub to hit the coast at Chiessi (total 12km; 6hr).

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del Noce, high up at Via della Madonna 14 (T 0565.901.284, W www.osteriadelnoce .it; daily March–Sept), with excellent food – set dinners cost €40 – and a terrace with spectacular views. Way up beside the Fortezza at Via del Pretorio 64 is little Monilli, a bar and paninoteca open daily until 2am, perched over a wooded hillside. The main draw of Marciana is 500m south of the village – the base-station of a cabinovia (cable car) that climbs 650m to the summit of Monte Capanne (1018m), Elba’s highest point (daily: 10am–12.50pm & 2.20–5.30pm; €17 return). Note that “cable car” is something of a misnomer: it’s a series of small exposed cages, each big enough for two people to stand up in, hooked onto a continually running cable. From here, a short scramble leads to the summit, from where the views are suitably stupendous. Another local attraction is one of Tuscany’s very few vegetarian restaurants, Vegetariano alla Cabinovia (T 0565.901.029; closed in winter), by a brook in the woods alongside the cabinovia base-station. The western coast and Marina di Campo TUS C ANY

| The Maremma

The spread-out village of SANT’ANDREA, 6km northwest of Marciana, just off the coast road, is a trendy retreat, popular with divers lured by the crystal-clear seas. Hotels are not expensive, most of them discreetly set amid near-tropical vegetation; just above the beach is the ecofriendly Ilio (T 0565.908.018, W www.hotel ilio.com; 3 ), which has a helpful manager and delicious breakfasts and dinners. A little west, the road hugs the coast for a lonely, scenic drive round to CHIESSI and POMONTE, each with a small stony beach, beautifully clear water and little commercialism. By FETOVAIA on the southwestern tip of the island you’re back to beach development, but the sandy beach is superb – and a big car park prevents some of the chaos of other Elban resorts. About 2km east of Fetovaia is a stretch of nudist beach. MARINA DI CAMPO, Elba’s ﬁrst resort, is also its largest. The huge white beach and clean water ensure the place is suffocatingly packed out in summer, with all the frippery and nightlife you’d expect in a major tourist centre. The best of the many local hotels is the Santa Caterina, Viale Elba (T 0565.976.452, W www.hotelsanta caterina.com; half-board obligatory 4). The moderately priced restaurant L’Aragosta, Via Bologna 3 (closed winter), serves fresh ﬁsh daily.

The Maremma The Maremma is a term derived from maríttima and refers to the coastal strip and inland hills of the Provincia di Grosseto, Tuscany’s southernmost province. The northern heartland of the Etruscans, this became depopulated in the Middle Ages after wars disrupted the drainage schemes and allowed malarial swamps to build up behind the dunes. The area became almost synonymous with disease, and nineteenth-century guides advised strongly against a visit – even so, butteri cowboys roamed freely then, as now, taking care of the region’s half-feral horses and its celebrated white cattle. Today, the provincial capital of Grosseto remains uninspiring, though there are some patches of ﬁne scenery – notably the Monti dell’Uccellina, protected in the Parco Naturale della Maremma, and the wooded peninsula of Monte Argentario.

Grosseto and around 480

GROSSETO remained a malaria-ridden backwater until the middle of the nineteenth century. The draining of the marshes, however, ﬁnally completed under Mussolini, triggered the transformation of the town into a provincial capital for the

Maremma. Rebuilt after the war with a rash of dreary condominiums, Grosseto still holds no real appeal for visitors, though you may ﬁnd yourself passing through. Most mainline trains on the Pisa–Rome coastal line stop in Grosseto, where you can change for Siena or Orbetello. To reach the old town, head up Via Roma from the station past a Fascist-era post office and piazza. There’s a small summer-only tourist office facing the Duomo in the heart of the small historic centre (April–Oct Mon–Sat 9am–1pm & 4–7.30pm; T 0564.427.858, W www.lamaremma.info). The best central hotel is the four-star Bastiani Grand Hotel, Piazza Gioberti 64 (T 0564.20.047, W www.hotelbastiani.com; 4 ). The Monti dell’Uccellina

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| The Maremma

Recognized as the last virgin coastal landscape to survive on the Italian peninsula, the hilly Monti dell’Uccellina, 12km south of Grosseto, is protected as the Parco Regionale della Maremma (W www.parco-maremma.it). This breathtaking piece of countryside combines cliffs, coastal marsh, macchia, forest-covered hills, pristine beaches and beautiful stands of umbrella pines. A microcosm of all that’s best in the Maremma, it remains devoid of the bars, marinas, hotels, roads and halfﬁnished houses that have destroyed much of the Italian littoral. There’s no public road access – all drivers should park in ALBERESE (scene, in August, of a butteri rodeo), near the visitor centre on Via del Bersagliere 7–9 (mid-June to mid-Sept daily 8.30am–8pm; T 0564.407.098). Admission to the park itself costs €6, payable at the visitor centre. The park authorities have deﬁned half a dozen different walking itineraries. Those that set off from Albarese itself incur no additional fee; the remainder leave from Pratini, 10km into the hills, which you reach via hourly shuttle buses from the visitor centre, costing €3. Between mid-June and mid-September, you can only follow the most popular trails, like the circular Trail A1 (San Rabano; 8km; 5hr), which climbs a ridge from Pratini and passes the ivy-covered eleventh-century ruined abbey of San Rabano, by joining a guided walk (no extra charge); for the rest of the year, you’re free to explore at your own pace. Additionally, some trails close altogether in midsummer when the risk of ﬁre is high. The park website has full details of riding, canoeing and mountain-biking opportunities.

Monte Argentario The high, rocky terrain of Monte Argentario (W www.monteargentario.it), 37km south of Grosseto, is as close to wilderness as southern Tuscany comes. The interior is mountainous, reaching 635m at its highest point, while the coast is sectioned dramatically into headlands, bays and shingle beaches. Much of the area is still uninhabited scrub and woodland, badly prone to forest ﬁres but still excellent walking country. Long ago, Monte Argentario was an island. Over several thousand years, inshore currents built up two narrow sand spits (tomboli) between the mountain and the mainland, creating a lagoon between them. The ancient town of Orbetello occupied a peninsula sticking out into the lagoon; then the Romans built a causeway to link Orbetello to the Argentario, forming a third spit of land and dividing the lagoon in two. Orbetello’s strange location is its most exciting feature, and on summer weekends the roads over the northern Tombolo della Giannella sandbar and through Orbetello become bottlenecks as tourists pile into resorts such as PORTO ERCOLE, which has an attractive old quarter and a ﬁshing-village atmosphere. Though founded by the Romans, its chief historical monuments are two Spanish fortresses, facing each other across the harbour. At the entrance to the old town,

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The Tarot Garden Bang on the Lazio border 20km east of Orbetello, in a landscape of dust and scrub, the Gaudí-esque Giardino dei Tarocchi, or Tarot Garden, is among Tuscany’s oddest and most engaging works of modern art. It’s the creation of Niki de St-Phalle (1930–2002), who devoted herself from 1979 onwards to constructing a physical interpretation of the tarot deck – chunky, brightly coloured cartoon ﬁgures of the Devil, the Guardian Angel, the Hanged Man and others loom well above the treetops, arranged around a curvaceous, arcaded courtyard tiled in shards of mirror and shimmering, multicoloured plastic. The symbolism of the garden may be obscure, but kids of all ages will love it. The garden has limited opening hours (April to mid-Oct daily 2.30–7.30pm; €10.50; T0564.895.122, Wwww.nikidesaintphalle.com). There’s no public transport, but the sculptures are visible about 1km north of the main Livorno– Rome “Via Aurelia” highway, near the village of Pescia Fiorentina. The nearest train station is Chiarone, 4km south.

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| Siena and around

a plaque on the stone gate commemorates the painter Caravaggio, who in 1610 keeled over with sunstroke on a beach nearby and died of a fever; he was buried in the parish church of Sant’Erasmo. From the village, you can easily walk across the Tombolo di Feniglia, which is barred to traffic and is a prime spot for birdwatching over the lagoon. Porto Ercole has a number of mid-range hotels, like the Conchiglia, Via della Marina 4 (T 0564.833.134, W www.albergolaconchiglia.it; 3 ), and the nicer Don Pedro, Via Panoramico 7 (T 0564.833.914, W www.hoteldonpedro.it; 4 ). The waterfront Gambero Rosso restaurant (T 0564.832.650; closed Wed & mid-Nov to mid-Feb) serves excellent ﬁsh.

Siena and around

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Immediately ravishing yet endlessly mysterious, and all on a far less daunting scale than Florence, the glorious medieval city of SIENA cradles within its ancient walls a majestic Gothic ensemble that can be enjoyed without venturing into a single museum. The physical and spiritual heart of the city, and arguably Italy’s loveliest square, is the sloping, scallop-shaped piazza Il Campo, the setting for the thrilling Palio bareback horserace. Siena’s Duomo and Palazzo Pubblico are two of the purest expressions of Italian Gothic architecture, and the best of the city’s paintings – collected in the Museo Civico and Pinacoteca Nazionale – are in the same tradition. The ﬁnest example of Sienese Gothic is Duccio’s Maestà, on show in the outstanding Museo dell’Opera, while splendid frescoes adorn the walls of Santa Maria della Scala, the city’s hospital for over 900 years and now its premier exhibition space. Far too many visitors breeze through Siena on a day-trip, but it’s hard to feel you’ve even scraped the surface unless you stay at least one night here. And allow time in turn for the most popular excursion from the city, northwest to the extraordinary multi-towered village of San Gimignano.

Some history

Siena’s train station is 2km northwest of town. It has a counter selling city bus tickets (Mon–Sat 5.50am–7.30pm; €0.80). To get into town, you can either walk, which takes a good 20–25 minutes, or cross the road and take just about any city bus heading left to Piazza Gramsci or Piazza Matteotti on the northern edge of the centre. Most intercity buses arrive on or near Viale Federico Tozzi, the road running alongside Piazza Gramsci–Piazza Matteotti, but note that many now avoid the centre and terminate at the train station instead. Coming from Florence or Pisa by train, you may need to change at Empoli (1hr 45min); by bus, there are hourly TRA-IN or SITA expresses (1hr 15min) plus SENA buses to and from Rome, Milan and Arezzo. The tourist office is at no. 56 on the Campo (daily 9am–7pm; T 0577.280.551, W www.terresiena.it).

| Siena: Arrival and information • Accommodation

Arrival and information

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Established as a Roman colony by Augustus, Siena enjoyed its heyday in the twelfth and thirteenth centuries, when it became for a brief period one of the major cities of Europe. Almost as large as Paris, it controlled most of southern Tuscany and its wool industry, dominated the trade routes between France and Rome, and maintained Italy’s richest pre-Medici banks. This era climaxed with the defeat of a far superior Florentine army at Montaperti in 1260. Although the result was reversed permanently nine years later, Siena embarked on an unrivalled urban development under its mercantile governors, the Council of Nine. Between 1287 and 1355, the city underwrote the completion ﬁrst of its cathedral, and then the Campo and its exuberant Palazzo Pubblico. Prosperity came to an abrupt halt with the Black Death, which reached Siena in May 1348; by October, two-thirds of the 100,000 inhabitants had died. The city never fully recovered (the population today remains under 60,000) and its politics, always factional, descended into chaos. In 1557 Philip II gave up Siena to Cosimo de’ Medici in lieu of war services, and it became part of Cosimo’s Grand Duchy of Tuscany. The lack of subsequent development explains Siena’s astonishing state of preservation: little was built and still less demolished. Since World War II, Siena has again become prosperous, thanks partly to tourism and partly to the resurgence of the Monte dei Paschi di Siena. This bank, founded in Siena in 1472 and currently the city’s largest employer, is a major player in Italian ﬁnance. It today sponsors much of Siena’s cultural life, coexisting, apparently easily, with one of Italy’s strongest left-wing councils.

Accommodation Siena is small enough that every hotel within the old walls is within ﬁfteen minutes’ walk of the main sights. Anyone visiting in summer should reserve accommodation as far in advance as possible; hotels are especially booked up at solid at Palio time (early July & mid-Aug), when they charge higher prices. You’ll also be glad of air conditioning in the summer heat. The official Siena Hotels Promotion agency (T 0577.288.084, W www.hotelsiena.com) offers free online reservations for all hotels, and runs a booth on Piazza Madre Teresa di Calcutta in front of San Domenico (Mon–Sat 9am–8pm; winter closes 7pm), where you can make same-day bookings for €2.

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Aia Mattonata Strada del Ceraiolo 1 T 0577.592.677, W www.aiamattonata.com. Ravishing little hotel in a converted hilltop farmhouse 4km south of the centre, with six very comfortable rooms and superb views over the city. Swimming pool, jacuzzi and Turkish bath, with massage available and use of mountain bikes. Rates include breakfast. 5 Albergo Tre Donzelle Via Donzelle 5 T0577.280.358, W www.tredonzelle.com. No-frills budget option close to the Campo, a few steps off Banchi di Sotto. Rooms range from tiny singles up to spacious family rooms that sleep four; all are very plain, some share bathrooms, none have TVs. 1 Alma Domus Via Camporegio 37 T 0577.44.177, Wwww.hotelalmadomus.it. Originally a pilgrim hostel, this fourteenth-century building, reached via a stairway down from close to San Domenico church, offers great-value and remarkably peaceful accommodation; its en-suite doubles, triples and quads enjoy wonderful views. Curfew 1am. Rates include breakfast. 2 Antica Residenza Cicogna Via dei Termini 67 T 0577.285.613, Wwww.antica residenzacicogna.it. Charming B&B on the ﬁrst ﬂoor of a medieval palazzo not far north of the Campo, with ﬁve air-conditioned en-suite rooms, all beautifully furnished and decorated; the quietest are at the back. The breakfast is delicious, and there’s free computer use and wi-ﬁ. 3 Bernini Via della Sapienza 15 T 0577.289.047, W www.albergobernini.com. Friendly, well-situated one-star hotel near San Domenico, with ten good-value rooms – some lack air conditioning and share bathrooms – and a roof terrace with a fantastic view over Siena. Midnight curfew. 2 Cannon d’Oro Via Montanini 28 T0577.44.321, W www.cannondoro.com. Simple, friendly hotel, tucked down an alleyway. Its thirty rooms show signs of age, but they’re spacious, high-ceilinged and spotless, and some enjoy ﬁne roofscape views. Breakfast is included but poor. 2

Certosa di Maggiano Via Certosa 82 T0577.288.180, Wwww.certosadimaggiano .com. This stunning former monastery, in a rural setting 1km southeast of the centre, offers large, elegant rooms surrounding the central cloister, beneath the (still functioning) bell tower. There’s also a library, a swimming pool and a swanky restaurant. Prices are equally fantastic. 8 La Coperta Ricamata Via Garibaldi 46 T0577.43.657, Wwww.lacopertaricamata.it. Quiet, clean and friendly B&B, not far north of the centre within easy walking distance of the bus station, with six large en-suite rooms. 2 La Perla Via delle Terme 25 T0577.47.144, W www.hotellaperlasiena.com. Thirteen small, plain but air-conditioned en-suite rooms up steep stairs, in a very central location; those at the front overlook Piazza Indipendenza, but it’s much quieter at the back. 2 Ostello Guidoriccio Via Fiorentina 89, Stellino T0577.52.212, Wwww.ostelloguidoriccio.com. Drab hundred-bed hostel, 4km northwest of the centre; take bus #3, #10 or #15 from Piazza Matteotti or buses from Florence can drop you at “Lo Stellino” (just after the Siena city sign). Dorm beds cost €20, private doubles are also available, and you can get a simple meal for €10. 1 Palazzo Bruchi Via Pantaneto 105 T0577.287.342, W www.palazzobruchi.it. Housed in a seventeenth-century palazzo, this small B&B, run by a friendly mother-and-daughter team, is a real bargain. Several of the lovely bright rooms have frescoed ceilings. 3 Palazzo Ravizza Pian dei Mantellini 34 T0577.280.462, W www.palazzoravizza.it. Elegant, nicely restored hotel in the peaceful southwest corner of the old town, with very pleasant public areas, and a lovely garden. All rooms have air conditioning and tasteful furnishings, many have frescoes; the best are upstairs at the back. Rates include a ﬁne breakfast. Free parking. 4

The City

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Everything is easily walkable from Siena’s great central square, Il Campo, which is built at the intersection of three hills conﬁgured like an upside-down Y. Each arm of that Y counts as one of the city’s terzi, or thirds, and each has its principal thoroughfare, leading out from the Campo on elevated ridges: humdrum Banchi di Sotto in the Terzo di San Martino on the southeast; bustling commercial Via di Città in the Terzo di Città on the southwest; and elegant Banchi di Sopra in the Terzo di Camollia on the north. The central core of alleys – almost entirely medieval in plan and appearance, and closed to traffic – can get a little disorienting, and it’s surprisingly easy to lose your ﬁx on the Campo, masked as it is by high

buildings. The huge Duomo – together with its attendant museums, including the unmissable Museo dell’Opera and Santa Maria della Scala – sits on a hill above Via di Città, looking across the deep Fontebranda valley north to the equally huge church of San Domenico perched on its own hilltop. Making your way from one to the other involves a lot of stairs, or a big semicircular detour to stay on a level.

Il Campo Il Campo is the centre of Siena in every sense: the main streets lead into it, the Palio is held around its perimeter, and every evening visitors and residents alike are drawn to it. Be sure to soak up the atmosphere last thing at night, when the amphitheatre curve of the piazza throws the low hum of café conversation around

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The Siena Palio (Wpalio.comune.siena.it) is Italy’s most spectacular festival event: a twice-yearly bareback horse race around the Campo, preceded by days of preparation, medieval pageantry and chicanery. Only ten of the seventeen contrade, chosen by lot, take part in any one race; horses and jockeys too are assigned at random. The seven that miss out are automatically entitled to run the next year. The only rule is that riders cannot interfere with each other’s reins. Otherwise, anything goes: each contrada has a traditional rival, and ensuring that it loses is as important as winning oneself. Jockeys may be bribed to throw the race or whip a rival or a rival’s horse; contrade have been known to drug horses and even to ambush a jockey on his way to the race. This is primarily a show for the Sienese; for visitors, in fact, the undercurrent of brutality and the bragging, days-long celebration of victory can come as a shock. Held since at least the thirteenth century, the race originally followed a circuit through the town. Since the sixteenth century it has consisted of three laps of the Campo, around a track covered with sand and padded with mattresses to minimize injury to riders and horses. There are two Palios a year, with the following build-up: June 29 and August 13: Presentation of horses in the morning at the town hall. Trial race in the Campo at 7.15pm. June 30 and August 14: Further trial races at 9am and 7.45pm. July 1 and August 15: Two more trial races at 9am and 7.45pm, followed by a street banquet in each of the contrade. July 2 and August 16: The day of the Palio opens with the Messa del Fantino (jockeys’ Mass), in the chapel beside the Palazzo Pubblico, before a ﬁnal trial at 9am. In the early afternoon each contrada takes its horse to be blessed in its church. At around 5pm the Palazzo Publico’s bell rings, and riders and comparse – equerries, ensigns, pages and drummers in medieval costume – proceed to the Campo for a display of ﬂag-twirling and pageantry. The race itself begins at 7.45pm on July 2, or 7pm on August 16, and lasts little more than ninety seconds. At the start all the horses except one are penned between two ropes; the free one charges the group from behind, when its rivals least expect it, and the race is on. It’s a hectic and violent spectacle; a horse that throws its rider is still eligible to win. The jockeys don’t stop at the ﬁnishing line but keep going at top speed out of the Campo, pursued by frenzied supporters. The palio – a silk banner – is subsequently presented to the winner. While seating is available in viciously expensive stands (booked months ahead), most spectators crowd for free into the centre of the Campo. For the best view, ﬁnd a position on the inner rail by 2pm (ideally at the start/ﬁnish line), then stand your ground; people keep pouring in until just before the race, and the swell of the crowd can be overwhelming. Toilets, shade and refreshments are minimal, and you won’t be able to leave the Campo until at least 8.30pm. Hotel rooms are very hard to ﬁnd; if you haven’t booked, either visit for the day or stay up all night.

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in an invisible spiral of sound that’s drowned out in the daytime. Four hundred years ago, Montaigne described this as the most beautiful square in the world; it’s hard to disagree today. When the Council of Nine were planning the piazza in 1293, this old marketplace, which lay at the convergence of the city quarters but was part of none, was the only possible site. Created in nine segments in honour of the council, the piazza became from the moment it was completed in 1349 the focus of city life, the scene of executions, bullﬁghts, communal boxing matches, and, of course, the Palio. St Bernardino preached here, holding before him the monogram of Christ’s name in Greek (“IHS”), which the council placed on the facade of the Palazzo Pubblico, alongside the city’s she-wolf symbol – a reference to Siena’s legendary foundation by Senius, son of Remus. On the uppermost slope of the Campo, the Renaissance makes a ﬂeeting appearance with the Fonte Gaia (Gay Fountain), designed and carved by Jacopo della Quercia in the early ﬁfteenth century but now replaced by a poor nineteenthcentury reproduction. The Palazzo Pubblico and the Museo Civico

The Palazzo Pubblico (also known as Palazzo Comunale), topped by a 97m bell tower, the Torre del Mangia (see opposite), is the focus of the Campo, occupying virtually the entire south side. Its three-part windows pleased the council so much that they ordered their emulation on all other buildings on the square. Although the palazzo is still in use as Siena’s town hall, its principal rooms, a series of grand halls frescoed with themes integral to the secular life of the medieval city, have been converted into the Museo Civico (daily 10am–6pm; €8, €11 with Santa Maria della Scala, or €13 with Torre del Mangia). If you only visit one museum in Siena, make it this one. At the top of the stairs, you’re directed through a disappointing ﬁve-room picture gallery to the Sala del Risorgimento, painted with nineteenth-century scenes of Vittorio Emanuele, ﬁrst king of Italy. Across the corridor lie three successive frescoed rooms: the Sala di Balìa, the Anticamera del Concistoro, and the grand Sala del Concistoro. Room 13, the Vestibolo, holds the gilded She-Wolf Suckling Romulus and Remus (1429), an allusion to Siena’s mythical founding. In the Anticappella alongside, decorations executed by Taddeo di Bartolo between 1407 and 1414 include a huge St Christopher. Behind a majestic wrought-iron screen by Jacopo della Quercia, the Cappella del Consiglio was also frescoed by di Bartolo, and holds an exceptional altarpiece by Sodoma and exquisite inlaid choir-stalls. All these are little more than a warm-up for Room 16, the great Sala del Mappamondo. The name is somewhat misleading; not a trace survives of Lorenzetti’s “rotating contraption”, designed to depict the cosmos. Instead, the room, which served for several centuries as the city’s law court, contains one of the greatest of all Italian frescoes. Simone Martini’s fabulous Maestà (Virgin in Majesty) is a painting of almost translucent colour, painted in archetypal Sienese Gothic style in 1315, when Martini was thirty. His great innovation was to use a canopy and a frieze of medallions to frame and organize the ﬁgures – lending a sense of space and more than a hint of perspective that suggest a knowledge of Giotto’s work. The fresco on the opposite wall, the wonderful Equestrian Portrait of Guidoriccio da Fogliano, is a motif for medieval chivalric Siena. Until recently, it too was credited to Martini, but art historians have long puzzled over the anachronistic castles, which are of a much later style than the painting’s signed date of 1328. Some argue the Guidoriccio is a sixteenth-century fake, others that it’s a genuine Martini overpainted by subsequent restorers.

Opposite the entrance to the Museo Civico, to the left of the Palazzo Pubblico’s internal courtyard, a door leads to the 503 steps of the Torre del Mangia (daily: March to mid-Oct 10am–7pm; mid-Oct to April 10am–4pm; €8, or €13 with Museo Civico), which gives fabulous views across the town and surrounding countryside. The tower takes its name from its ﬁrst watchman – a slothful glutton (mangiaguadagni) commemorated by a statue in the courtyard. A maximum of 25 people are allowed in the tower at one time; note that at the hint of rain, it closes for safety reasons.

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The Torre del Mangia

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The adjacent Sala della Pace holds Ambrogio Lorenzetti’s Allegories of Good and Bad Government, frescoes commissioned in 1338 to remind the councillors of their duties. Among Europe’s most important cycles of medieval secular painting, this includes the ﬁrst-known panorama in Western art. The walled city shown is clearly Siena, and the paintings burst with details of medieval life; their moral theme is expressed in a complex iconography of allegorical virtues and ﬁgures. Good Government (the better-preserved half ) is dominated by a throned ﬁgure representing the Comune, ﬂanked by the Virtues and with Faith, Hope and Charity buzzing about his head. To the left, Justice (with Wisdom in the air above) dispenses rewards and punishments, while below her throne Concordia advises the Republic’s councillors on their duties. Bad Government is ruled by a horned demon, while over the city ﬂies the ﬁgure of Fear, whose scroll reads: “Because he looks for his own good in the world, he places justice beneath tyranny. So nobody walks this road without Fear: robbery thrives inside and outside the city gates.” Some ﬁne panel paintings by Lorenzetti’s contemporaries are displayed in the Sala dei Pilastri to one side. Finally climb the stairs to the rear loggia for clear views of quite how abruptly the town ends: buildings rise to the right and left for a few hundred metres along the ridges of the Terzo di San Martino and Terzo di Città, holding a rural valley in their embrace.

The Loggia della Mercanzia and around

Behind the Fonte Gaia, assorted stairways and alleys between the buildings climb up to where the intersection of Siena’s three main streets is marked by the ﬁfteenth-century Loggia della Mercanzia. Reluctantly Renaissance, with its Gothic niches for the saints, it was designed as a tribune house for merchants to do their deals. From here, Banchi di Sopra heads north, while Via di Città curves west (see p.492). Follow Banchi di Sotto east, and you soon reach the Logge del Papa with, alongside it, the Palazzo Piccolomini, a committed Renaissance building by Bernardo Rossellino, the architect employed at Pienza by the Sienese Pope Pius II (Aeneas Sylvius Piccolomini).

The Duomo and around Siena’s Duomo is an absolute delight, its exterior an amazing conglomeration of Romanesque and Gothic, delineated by bands of black and white marble. Few buildings can reveal so much of a city’s history and aspirations; completed to virtually its present size around 1215, it was subjected to constant plans for expansion. Early in the fourteenth century, attempts were made to double its extent by building a baptistry on the slope below, to serve as a foundation for a rebuilt nave, but work ground to a halt when walls and joints gaped under the pressure. After the Black Death reduced the city’s population by two thirds in 1348, funds were suddenly cut off, and the plan abandoned. The part-extension

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still stands at the north end of the square – a vast structure that would have created the largest church in Italy outside Rome. The facade of the Duomo was designed in 1284 by Giovanni Pisano, who with his workshop created much of the statuary – philosophers, patriarchs and prophets, now replaced by copies. In the next century the Campanile and a Gothic rose window were added. The mosaics in the gables, however, had to wait until the nineteenth century. The black-and-white motif continues in the sgraffito marble pavement that begins outside the church, and takes off into a startling sequence of 56 panels adorning the interior (W www.operaduomo.siena.it; ﬁrst fortnight of March & all Oct Mon–Sat 10.30am–7.30pm, Sun 1.30–6pm; mid-March to Sept 10.30am– 8pm, Sun 1.30–6pm; Nov–Feb Mon–Sat 10.30am–6.30pm, Sun 1.30–5.30pm; €3, €6 during the summer uncovering of the marble pavement; covered by €10 pass). Depicting an eccentric mixture of Biblical themes, secular stories, and allegories, the ﬂoor panels were completed between 1349 and 1547, with virtually every artist in the city trying his hand on a design. However, you may not see much of the pavement, which these days is only stripped of its protective boarding for a few unpredictable weeks each summer; check the website for the latest schedule. The zebra-striped interior is equally arresting above ﬂoor level, with its line of popes’ heads set above the pillars, the same hollow-cheeked scowls cropping up repeatedly. The greatest individual artistic treasure is Nicola Pisano’s pulpit, with its elaborate high-relief detail of the Life of Jesus and Last Judgement. In the north transept is a bronze statue by Donatello, the emaciated St John the Baptist, companion piece to his equally ragged Mary Magdalene in Florence (see p.432), and superb candelabra-carrying angels by Beccafumi ﬂank the Renaissance high altar. Entered off the nave, halfway along on the left, the stunning Libreria Piccolomini was commissioned by Francesco Piccolomini (who for ten days was Pius III) as a library for the books of his uncle Aeneas (Pius II). A cycle of crystal-sharp, brilliantly colourful frescoes by Pinturicchio celebrates Aeneas’s life. It starts to the right of the window, with Aeneas attending the Council of Basel as a secretary, then, in subsequent panels, presenting himself as envoy to James II of Scotland; being crowned poet laureate by Holy Roman Emperor, Frederick II; representing Frederick on a visit to Pope Eugenius IV; and then – as Bishop of Siena – presiding over the meeting of Frederick III and his bride-to-be Eleanora outside Siena’s Porta Camollia. The next panels show Aeneas being made a cardinal in 1456; being elected pope two years later; and then launching a call for a crusade against the Turks, who had just seized Constantinople. His best-remembered action was the canonization of St Catherine, shown in the penultimate panel. The ﬁnal fresco shows his death at Ancona.

Siena’s contrade

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Siena takes great pride in its division into neighbourhoods, or contrade, ancient self-governing wards that formed a patchwork of tribal identity within the fabric of the city and that still ﬂourish today, helping to foster tight bonds of community and contributing to Siena’s surprisingly low crime rate. Each of the seventeen contrade has its own church, social club and museum. Each, too, has a heraldic animal motif, displayed in a fountain-sculpture in its neighbourhood piazza. Allegiance to one’s contrada – conferred by birth – remains a strong element of civic life, and identiﬁcation with the contrade is integral to the competition of the Palio. You’ll often see groups of comparse practising ﬂag-waving and drum-playing around town.

Santa Maria della Scala

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For nine hundred years until the 1980s, the vast Santa Maria della Scala complex, opposite the Duomo, served as Siena’s main hospital. Today its wonderful interiors have been converted into a major centre for art and culture, revealing works that remained barely seen for centuries (daily: mid-March to Oct 10.30am–6.30pm; Nov to mid-March 10.30am–4.30pm; €6; W www.santamariadellascala.com). Beyond the ticket hall, the ﬁrst room you enter is a small chapel adorned with ﬁfteenth-century frescoes by Vecchietta. That leads in turn to the larger church of Santissima Annunziata, where the same artist’s bronze statue of the Risen Christ is on the high altar – the ﬁgure is so gaunt that the veins show through the skin. Beyond that, the Cappella del Manto holds a strikingly beautiful fresco by Beccafumi, St Anne and St Joachim (1512). It shows the aged parents of the Virgin, who having failed to conceive in their twenty years of marriage, are told by an angel to meet at Jerusalem’s Golden Gate and kiss – a moment that symbolizes the Immaculate Conception of their daughter. The real highlight here, however, is the vast Sala del Pellegrinaio. Formerly the main hospital ward, it’s entirely frescoed with scenes from the hospital’s history, intended to promote charity toward the sick and orphaned. Naturalistic and still vivid, their almost entirely secular content was extraordinary at the time they were painted (after 1440). Stairs lead down to the Oratorio di Santa Caterina della Notte, an oratory that belonged to one of several medieval confraternities which maintained places of worship in the basement of the hospital. It’s a dark and strangely spooky place, despite the plethora of decoration – you can easily imagine St Catherine passing nocturnal vigils down here. Still further down, much of the lowest level is given over to the remodeled Museo Archeologico. Walkways through the vaults lead past all sorts of Roman and pre-Roman treasures, largely gathered by private Sienese collectors during the nineteenth century. Weathered Etruscan-style urns alternate with exquisite little votive ﬁgures, statuettes and coins. The Museo dell’Opera

Home to some superlative artworks from the cathedral’s history, and also offering amazing if perilous views over the city, the impressive Museo dell’Opera is tucked into a corner of what was originally intended to be the Duomo’s new nave (daily March–May, Sept & Oct 9.30am–7pm; June–August 9.30am–8pm; Nov– Feb 10am–5pm; €6; covered by €10 pass; W www.operaduomo.siena.it). As you enter on the ground ﬂoor, you’re immediately confronted by the Galleria delle Statue. Donatello’s delicate ochre Madonna and Child is poised above a doorway, while huge, elongated, twisting ﬁgures by Giovanni Pisano loom on all sides. The museum’s greatest treasure, Duccio’s vast and justly celebrated Maestà, dominates a dimly lit air-conditioned gallery upstairs. The Duomo’s altarpiece from 1311 until 1505, it’s a masterpiece of Sienese art. Its iconic, Byzantine spirituality is accentuated by Duccio’s ﬂowing composition, his realization of the space in which action takes place, and a new attention to narrative detail in the panels of the predella and the reverse of the altarpiece which are now displayed to its side. Upstairs again, you can admire the Duomo’s original altarpiece, a haunting Byzantine icon known as the Madonna dagli Occhi Grossi (of the Big Eyes). A small passageway leads to the open-air Panorama dal Facciatone, via steep spiral stairs that climb the walls of the abandoned nave. The sensational view is worth enjoying even if you choose not to venture onto the narrow, scarily exposed, topmost walkway.

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Along Via di Città

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Via di Città, the main thoroughfare linking the Duomo with the Campo, is lined with shops and plenty of explorable side-alleys, as well as being fronted by some of Siena’s ﬁnest private palazzi. The Palazzo Chigi-Saracini, at no. 82, is a Gothic beauty, with its curved facade and rear courtyard. Via di Città continues to a small piazza from where Via San Pietro leads south to the fourteenth-century Palazzo Buonsignori, now the home of the Pinacoteca Nazionale (Mon 9am–1pm, Tues–Sat 8.15am–7.15pm, Sun 9am–1pm; €4). A roll of honour of Sienese Gothic painting, the collection starts on the second ﬂoor with the ﬁrst known Sienese work, an altar frontal from 1215. Romanesque and Byzantine inﬂuences dominate the early rooms, with the intricate gilded backgrounds that became so characteristic of Sienese style. Speciﬁc artists showcased thereafter include Duccio di Buoninsegna, who together with his school takes up two full rooms, and Simone Martini, whose masterpiece Blessed Agostino Novello and Four of his Miracles is in Room 5. On the next ﬂoor down you’ll ﬁnd Renaissance works by such as Sodoma, whose panel of the Deposition (Room 32) and frescoes from Sant’Agostino (Room 37) show his characteristic drama and delight in costume and landscape. The gallery’s topmost storey, on the other hand, which is not always open, is devoted to the Collezione Spannocchi. This miscellany of Italian, German and Flemish works includes the only painting in the museum by a female artist – Bernardo Campi Painting Sofonisba’s Portrait by Sofonisba Anguissola, a neat little joke in which the artist excels in her portrait of Campi, but depicts his portrait of her as a ﬂat stereotype. South of the Pinacoteca Nazionale, the church of Sant’Agostino is not always open to visitors, but holds outstanding paintings by Perugino and Sodoma. A nice walk loops southwest along Via della Cerchia into a student-dominated area around the church of Santa Maria del Carmine (which contains a hermaphrodite St Michael and the Devil by Beccafumi). Via del Fosso di San Ansano, north of the Carmine square, is a country lane above terraced vineyards that leads to the Selva (Rhinoceros) contrada’s square, from where the stepped Vicolo di San Girolamo leads up to the Duomo.

North of the Campo Exploring beyond the touristed central alleys between the Campo and the Duomo reveals much more of the bustling everyday life of Siena. North of the Campo, the Banchi di Sopra leads through the commercial heart of town to Piazza Matteotti, home of the main post office; north again lies the workaday neighbourhood of the Terzi di Camollia. The church of Santo Stefano fronts a lovely contrada square, home of the Istrici (Porcupine), while the road emerges from the walls at the northern Porta Camollia, inscribed “Siena opens her heart to you wider than this gate.” The city’s northwest corner holds a stadium and the gardens of La Lizza, which lead up to the bastions of the Fortezza di Santa Barbara, rebuilt by the Medici and now housing the comprehensive wine collection of the Enoteca Italiana (see p.495). San Domenico

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Until the start of the thirteenth century, monasteries were essentially rural, meditative retreats. Then in the space of a few decades, preaching orders of friars were established, and started to found monasteries on the periphery of the major Italian cities. In Siena the two greatest orders, the Dominicans and Franciscans, located themselves respectively to the west and east. Founded in 1125, west of Piazza Matteotti, the vast brick San Domenico church (daily: March–Oct 7.30am–6.30pm; Nov–March 9am–6pm; free; W www.basilicacateriniana.com) remains closely identiﬁed with St Catherine of Siena (see box opposite). Inside on

St Catherine of Siena

The Oratorio di San Bernardino

Born in 1380, the year of St Catherine’s death, St Bernardino began his preaching life at the chill monastic church of San Francesco, across the city to the east. Alongside, the Oratorio di San Bernardino (mid-March to Oct daily 10.30am–1.30pm & 3–5.30pm; closed rest of the year; €4) holds a beautifully wood-panelled upper chapel frescoed by Sodoma and Beccafumi. In the lower chapel are seventeenthcentury scenes from the saint’s life, which was taken up by incessant travel throughout Italy, preaching against usury and denouncing political strife; his sermons in the Campo frequently went on for the best part of a day. Canonized in 1444, he was made patron saint of advertising in the 1980s – thanks to his dictum on rhetoric, “Make it clear, short and to the point”. The remaining rooms of the building, known collectively as the Museo Diocesano di Arte Sacra (same hours and ticket) contains devotional art from the thirteenth to the seventeenth centuries.

| Siena: Eating, drinking and nightlife

the right, a raised chapel holds a contemporary portrait of the saint by her friend Andrea Vanni. Her own chapel, on the south side of the enormous, airy nave, has frescoes by Sodoma of her swooning (to the left of the altar) and in ecstasy (to the right), as well as a reliquary containing her head. The Casa Santuario di Santa Caterina – St Catherine’s family house, where she lived as a Dominican nun – is just south of the church, down the hill on Via Santa Caterina (daily: 9.30am–12.30pm & 3–6pm; free). The building has been much adapted, with a Renaissance loggia and a series of oratories – one on the site of her cell. At the bottom of the hill, through the Oca (Goose) contrada, the Fonte Branda is the best-preserved of Siena’s medieval fountains. According to local folklore, it was the haunt of werewolves, who would throw themselves into the water at dawn to return in human form.

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St Catherine of Siena was born on March 25, 1347, the 24th child of Jacopo Benincasa, a dyer, and Lapa of Duccio de’ Piacenti. Her path to beatiﬁcation began early, with a vision aged six of Christ as pope, followed a year later by a vow of perpetual virginity. Her family tried to drill some sense into her by forcing her to work at household chores, but when her father discovered her at prayer one day with a dove ﬂuttering above her head, he realized her holy destiny. Catherine took the Dominican habit aged 16, then began charitable works in post-plague Siena before turning her hand to politics. After preventing Siena and Pisa from joining Florence in rising against Pope Urban V (then absent in Avignon), she travelled herself to Avignon in 1376 to persuade Pope Gregory XI to return to Rome. It was a fulﬁlment of the ultimate Dominican ideal – a union of the practical and mystical life. Catherine returned to Siena to a life of contemplation, retaining a political role in her attempts to reconcile the 1378 schism between the Popes and Antipopes. She died in Rome in 1380, and was the ﬁrst woman ever to be canonized – by Pius II in 1461. Pius IX made her co-patron of Rome in 1866; Pius XII raised her to be co-patron of Italy (alongside St Francis) in 1939; and then John Paul II declared her co-patron of Europe in 1999.

Eating, drinking and nightlife Although Siena has no shortage of places where you can eat well, it can feel distinctly provincial after Florence. The main action of an evening is the passeggiata from Piazza Matteotti along Banchi di Sopra to the Campo – and there’s not much

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in the way of nightlife after that. For most visitors, though, the Campo, the universal gathering place, provides diversion enough, while local students ensure a bit of life in the bars. Putting together a picnic in the Campo or elsewhere is easy: you can buy pizza by weight from many central hole-in-the-wall places, or gourmet supplies at two gorgeous old groceries: Miccoli, Via di Città 95, and nearby Manganelli, Via di Città 71.

Cafés and restaurants

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Of the terrace cafés ringing the Campo, Liberamente is by far the nicest, but otherwise they’re much of a muchness, and expensive. With several new, imaginative osterie having raised the general standard of Siena’s restaurants, you’ll have no trouble ﬁnding good places in all price ranges – though there’s still nowhere worth recommending in the over-priced Campo. Local cuisine tends to be heavy: expect plenty of wild boar and rabbit, plus specialities like pici (thick, hand-rolled spaghetti with toasted breadcrumbs), ﬁnocchiona (minced pork ﬂavoured with fennel), pappa col pomodoro (bread and tomato soup) and fagioli all’uccelletto (white bean and sausage stew).

| Siena: Eating, drinking and nightlife

Antica Osteria Da Divo Via Franciosa 29 T 0577.286.054, W www.osteriadadivo.it. Hearty, high-quality Tuscan food, aimed primarily at tourists, a few steps down from the Duomo. There’s no pavement seating, but the ravishing underground dining rooms incorporate Etruscan vaults, and the upstairs area is pleasant too. Starters at €8 or €10 include a fabulous risotto; mains €20 or €22. Cane e Gatto Via Pagliaresi 6 T 0577.287.545. Don’t be put off by the lack of a menu – the chef simply follows his own whim each day, serving a truly wonderful four- or ﬁve-course menù degustazione of the ﬁnest Tuscan cuisine for €60 per person, or €80 with wine. Closed Thurs. La Taverna di Cecco Via Cecco Angiolieri 19 T0577.288.518. Attentive service, moderate prices and heavenly trufﬂe risotto. Good pasta dishes too, including tagliatelle with walnuts and cream. Medio Evo Via dei Rossi 40 T0577.280.315. Traditional rich Tuscan food, served in grand style beneath the splendid brick ceiling of its ﬂag-festooned dining room; the prices are reasonable though, with sumptuous mains at €12–20. Closed Thurs. Nello Via del Porrione 28 T 0577.289.043. Exceptionally friendly, utterly magniﬁcent restaurant with pavement seating in a pedestrian

lane just off the Campo, combining a stylish youthful edge with a family atmosphere. Creative specialities include the squid-ink spaghetti, cod with polenta, and succulent, tiny lamb chops. Closed Sun. Osteria Boccon del Prete Via di San Pietro 17 T0577.280.388. A cellar-like little restaurant, with a vaulted ceiling, close to the Pinacoteca. It serves delicious and well-priced bruschette and crostini, plus appetizers like gnocchi with sea bream for €6.50–8, and mains such as pork ﬁllet at €9–13. Closed Sun. Osteria Carroccio Via Casato di Sotto 32 T0577.411.65. Popular, good-value little osteria, with outdoor tables just a minute’s walk from the Campo. Good Sienese dishes (such as pappardelle with hare and tagliatelle al cinghiale, both €8) and an extensive wine list. Closed Wed. Osteria Il Grattacielo Via Pontani 8 T0577.289.326. This tiny alleyway caféosteria – the “Skyscraper” name is ironic – treats its very local clientele to delicious snacks and wines by the glass. Fill your plate at lunchtime with grilled veg, marinated anchovies and the like, for around €10. Osteria Nonna Gina Piano del Mantellini T0577.287.247. No-nonsense, ultra-fresh, Italian

Sweet treats

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Siena is famous for its cakes, including the trademark panforte – a dense and delicious wedge of nuts, fruit and honey – and biscuits like cavallucci (aniseed, nut and spice) and ricciarelli (almond). Buy them fresh, by the etto (100g), in the bakeries or pasticcerie along Banchi di Sopra; the gift-packaged boxes aren’t as good.

home cooking in a friendly family atmosphere at the southwest end of town, with some outdoor tables. Most dishes under €10, and the house wine is a real bargain at €5 per litre. Closed Mon. Ristorante San Desiderio Piazzetta L. Bonelli 2 T0577.286.091, Wwww.ristorantesandesiderio .com. This cavernous former church, just below the Duomo en route to the Campo, also has a solitary outdoor table. Pasta starters like pici are €7–10; mains at €12–15 include ossobuco with tiny green peas. Closed Tues. Taverna del Capitano Via del Capitano 8 T 0577.288.094. Just down from the Duomo, with

spacious outdoor seating and a serene medieval dining room. Dependable local specialities include appetizers like crostini Toscani at €7–8, and main courses such as rabbit with herbs (€13–16). Tullio ai Tre Cristi Vicolo Provenzano 1 T 0577.280.608. A Sienese institution since 1830, the smart restaurant of the Giraffa contrada is draped with heraldic banners. Pricey but consistently good traditional food – roast boar, steaks, tripe, abundant ﬁsh and some pastas. Seasonal tasting menus cost upwards of €60. Closed Wed.

Nightlife and entertainment TUS C ANY

| Siena: Listings

Pleasant bars are scattered all over town. L’Officina, north of the centre at Piazza del Sale 3/A, sells around a hundred bottled beers with more on tap, and stays open until 3am, with occasional live music. The garden of the Palazzo Ravizza hotel, Pian dei Mantellini 34, is a tranquil spot on a hot afternoon. The Enoteca Italiana inside the Fortezza (Mon noon–8pm, Tues–Sat noon–1am; T 0577.228.811, W www.enoteca-italiana.it) is the country’s only national wine collection. Its cellar stocks and exhibits every single Italian wine (well over a thousand of them), and you can order by the glass or bottle in its bar. You’ll spot posters for city events at Piazza Matteotti, and the Siena supplement of La Nazione newspaper has details of the day’s concerts and ﬁlms. The club-bar Al Cambio, Via di Pantaneto 48 (closed Sun), is pretty much the only central late-night spot, while the low-key Siena Jazz (T 0577.271.401, W www.sienajazz.it) in the last week of July is one of several summer events. Siena hosts prestigious classical concerts throughout the year. The Accademia Musicale Chigiana is the driving force, staging the Estate Musicale Chigiana cycle all summer, and the Settimana Musicale Senese in late July, often featuring a major opera production. Venues vary from the Duomo and Sant’Agostino to out-oftown locations such as the atmospheric ruined abbey of San Galgano. Tickets start at €10, bookable through the tourist office or from mid-June onwards in person at the Accademia Musicale Chigiana, Via di Città 89 (daily 3–7pm; T 0577.22.091, W www.chigiana.it).

Listings Bike rental Perozzi Automotocicli, north of the centre at Via del Gazzani 16 (T0577.288.387, W www.perozzi.it; €10 daily, €50 weekly); DF Bike, some way south of the centre at Via Massetana Romana 54 (T 0577.271.905, Wwww.dfbike.it; €15 daily, €85 weekly). Bookstore There’s a very good English-language bookstore at the Palazzo Ravizza hotel, Pian dei Mantellini 34 T 0577.281.757, W www.bookshop siena.com. Bus information Ticket ofﬁces beneath Piazza Gramsci have information on all routes.

The Sienese bus company is called TRA-IN (T 0577.204.111, W www.trainspa.it). Services run roughly every 30min to Poggibonsi – most continue to San Gimignano, otherwise change at Poggibonsi – and eight times daily to Montalcino, more to Montepulciano (most require a change at Buonconvento). Some buses to the hill-towns south of Siena depart from the train station, not from Piazza Gramsci. TRA-IN and SITA also run regularly to Florence (take an express). Hospital Loc. Le Scotte T 0577.585.111.

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Internet access Internet Train, Via di Città 121, and Via Pantaneto 54; MegaWeb, Via Pantaneto 134; Interfast Net, Via Casato di Sotto 1. All have long opening hours and charge around €1.50 for 15min (less for students). Laundry Lavanderia, Via San Petro 70; Ondablu, Casato di Sotto 17; both are self-service and open daily 8am–10pm. Left luggage At the TRA-IN bus information centre below Piazza Gramsci (daily 7am–7pm; €5.50 per piece, same day only). The train station has selfservice lockers on platform 1. Market A huge weekly market sprawls over La Lizza (Wed 8am–1pm). Parking There’s plentiful free parking outside the walls. The two biggest parking garages – run

by the same company and clearly signposted – charge around €1.50/hr (daily 7am–11pm) but are misleadingly named: “Parcheggio Il Campo” and “Parcheggio Il Duomo” are a long way south of either the Campo or the Duomo, just inside the Porta Tuﬁ and Porta San Marco respectively (Wwww.sienaparcheggi.com). Visitors can drive through the old-town alleys only in order to check in at their hotel. Police The Questura is at Via del Castoro 6 T0577 201.111. Post ofﬁce Piazza Matteotti 1 (Mon–Sat 8.15am–7pm). Taxi Radio Taxi T0577.49.222; taxis wait on Piazza Matteotti.

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San Gimignano

| San Gimignano

SAN GIMIGNANO, 27km northwest of Siena, is perhaps the most visited small village in Italy. Its stunning hilltop skyline of towers, built in aristocratic rivalry by the feuding nobles of the twelfth and thirteenth centuries, evokes the appearance of medieval Tuscany more than any other sight. And the town is all that it’s cracked up to be: quietly monumental, beautifully preserved, enticingly rural, and with a ﬁne array of religious and secular frescoes. However, from Easter until October, San Gimignano has very little life of its own, with hordes of day-trippers traipsing up and down its narrow streets and ﬁling in and out of its innumerable olive oil, wine and souvenir shops. If you want to reach beyond its facade of quaintness, try to come well out of season; if you can’t, then aim to spend the night here – the town takes on a very different pace and atmosphere in the evenings. In the early Middle Ages, San Gimignano was a force to be reckoned with. It was controlled by two great families – the Ardinghelli and the Salvucci – and its 15,000 population (twice the present number) prospered on agricultural holdings and its position on the Lombardy-to-Rome pilgrim route. At its peak, the town’s walls enclosed ﬁve monasteries, four hospitals, public baths and a brothel. Feuds, however, had long wrought havoc: the ﬁrst Ardinghelli– Salvucci conﬂict erupted in 1246. Whenever the town itself was united, it picked ﬁghts with Volterra, Poggibonsi and other neighbours. These were halted only by the Black Death, which devastated ﬁrst the population and then, as the pilgrim trade collapsed, the economy. Subjection to Florence broke the power of the nobles and so their tower-houses, symbolic in other towns of real control, were not torn down; today, ﬁfteen of an original 72 survive. At the start of the nineteenth century, travellers described San Gimignano as “miserably poor”; its postwar history, however, has been one of ever-increasing affluence, thanks to tourism and the production of an old-established but recently rejuvenated white wine, Vernaccia.

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Most visitors see San Gimignano on a day-trip from Siena. To get here by public transport, catch one of the few direct buses from Siena, or take a train or bus to Poggibonsi (40min) and change there for the twenty-minute bus trip up to San

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Gimignano. If you’re driving, the easiest parking is in the three pay car parks along the road that circles outside the walls; you can only enter the town itself if you have a permit from a hotel. The helpful local tourist office (daily 9am–1pm & 3–7pm; T 0577.940.008, W www.sangimignano.com), on the south side of the central Piazza del Duomo, can help with accommodation, or you can use the W www.hotelsiena.com website to compare prices online.

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Hotels

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B&B Locanda Il Pino Via Cellolese 4 T 0577.940.415, E [email protected]. Half a dozen simple but comfortable en-suite B&B rooms, linked with the recommended adjoining restaurant (see p.500). 2 Bel Soggiorno Via San Giovanni 91 T 0577.940.375, W www.hotelbelsoggiorno.it. Twenty-one smallish but beautifully appointed rooms in a converted thirteenth-century townhouse on the main street. Restaurant with panoramic terrace; summer guests are expected to take full board. 4 La Cisterna Piazza Cisterna 24 T 0577.940.328, W www.hotelcisterna.it. Elegant, 49-room ivy-clad hotel, built into a very central medieval ensemble; some rooms have views onto the (at times noisy) piazza or over the valley. Good restaurant. 4

Leon Bianco Piazza Cisterna 13 T0577.941.294, Wwww.leonbianco.com. Tasteful three-star hotel, in a fourteenth-century mansion in the main square. Roof terrace for breakfast, drinks and lounging. Rooms without views are considerably cheaper. 3 Le Vecchie Mura Via Piandornella 13 T0577.940.270, W www.vecchiemura.it. Three doubles above a restaurant (see p.500), with superb views over vineyards and rolling Tuscan countryside. Friendly owners. 2

Campsite Campeggio Boschetto di Piemma T0577.940.352, W www.boschettodipiemma.it. The nearest campsite (with bar, restaurant and pool), 3km downhill from Porta San Giovanni at Santa Lucia, off the Volterra road. Closed Nov–March.

| San Gimignano

The Town It takes around twenty minutes to walk from one end of San Gimignano to the other. It deserves at least a day, however, both for its frescoes and for its lovely surrounding countryside. From the southern gate, Porta San Giovanni, the palazzo-lined Via San Giovanni leads to the interlocking main squares, the Piazza del Duomo and the Piazza della Cisterna. On the right of the street, about 100m up, is the former church of San Francesco – a Romanesque building converted, like many of the palazzi, to a wine shop. You enter the Piazza della Cisterna through another gateway, the Arco dei Becci, part of the original fortiﬁcations built before the town expanded in the twelfth century. The square itself is ﬂanked by an anarchic cluster of towers and palazzi, and is named after the thirteenth-century public cistern, still functioning in the centre. Northwest of the square is one of the old Ardinghelli towers; a Salvucci rival rears up behind. An arch leads through to the more austere Piazza del Duomo, with further towers and civic palazzi. The Collegiata

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The plain facade of the Duomo, or more properly the Collegiata, since San Gimignano no longer has a bishop, could hardly provide a greater contrast with its interior (April–Oct Mon–Fri 10am–7.30pm, Sat 10am–5.30pm, Sun 12.30–7.30pm; March & Nov to mid-Jan Mon–Sat 9.30am–5.10pm, Sun 12.30–5.10pm; mid-Jan to Feb open for religious celebrations only; €3.50, or €5.50 with Arte Sacra). This is one of the most comprehensively frescoed churches in Tuscany, with cycles of paintings ﬁlling every available space, their brilliant colours set off by Pisan-Romanesque arcades of black-and-white-striped marble. Entrance is from the side courtyard, where you’ll also ﬁnd the small Museo d’Arte Sacra (April–Oct Mon–Fri 9.30am–7.10pm, Sat 9.30am–5.10pm, Sun 12.30–5.10pm; Nov–March Mon–Sat 9.30am–4.40pm, Sun 12.30–4.40pm; €3). While less spectacular, it’s still worth a look for its rescued religious art. The Collegiata’s three principal fresco cycles ﬁll the north and south walls, as well as two short side-walls that protrude from the east (exit) wall of the facade. The Old Testament scenes on the north wall, completed by Bartolo di Fredi around 1367, are full of medieval detail in the costumes, activities and interiors. They are also quirkily naturalistic: there are few odder frescoes than the depiction of Noah exposing himself in a drunken stupor. The cycle (read from left to right, top to

Parts of the Palazzo Comunale, the other key component of Piazza del Duomo, are given over to council offices, but most of the building is devoted to the Pinacoteca and the Torre Grossa, the only one of San Gimignano’s towers which you can climb for great views of the Val d’Elsa (both daily: March–Oct 9.30am–7pm; Nov–Feb 10am–5.30pm; €5). The lovely courtyard was built in 1323. A loggia opens on the right, from which judicial and public decrees were occasionally proclaimed (hence the subject matter of its frescoes). Stairs lead up to a picturesque little balcony. The ﬁrst room, frescoed with hunting scenes, is the Sala di Dante – the poet visited as Florence’s ambassador to the town in 1299, to plead for Guelph unity. Most of the paintings are Sienese in origin or inspiration, with the highlight being Lippo Memmi’s Maestà (1317). Off the Sala di Dante are busts of a winsome Santa Fina (1496) and San Gregorio by Pietro Torrigiano. Highlights upstairs include two outstanding tondi by Filippino Lippi. Rooms off to the right hold a triptych by Taddeo di Bartolo, the Scenes from the Life of St Gimignano (1393) – with the saint holding the eponymous town on his lap – and Lorenzo di Niccolò’s Scenes from the Life of St Bartholomew (1401), which includes a graphic depiction of the saint being ﬂayed alive. The most enjoyable paintings are hidden away in a small room off the stairs. Frescoes of wedding scenes completed in the 1320s by the Sienese painter Memmo di Filipuccio are unique in their subject matter: they show a tournament where the wife rides on her husband’s back, followed by the couple taking a shared bath and then climbing into bed – the man managing to retain the same red hat throughout.

| San Gimignano

The Pinacoteca

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bottom) follows the story of the Flood with those of Abraham and Lot (their trip to Canaan), Joseph (his dream; being let down the well; having his brothers arrested, and being recognized by them), Moses (changing a stick into a serpent before the Pharaoh; the Red Sea; Mount Sinai) and Job (temptation; the devil killing his herds; thanking God; being consoled). Above, note the beautiful fresco depicting the Creation of Eve, in which Eve emerges from the rib of the sleeping Adam. The New Testament scenes opposite (begun 1333), attributed to either Barna da Siena or Lippo Memmi, impress most by the intensity of their emotional expression. In the dramatic Resurrection of Lazarus, a dumbstruck crowd witnesses the removal of a door to reveal the living Lazarus in the winding bandages of burial. An altogether different vision pervades Taddeo di Bartolo’s Last Judgement (1410), with paradise to the left and hell to the right. A gruesome depiction of what’s always a lurid subject, it features no-holds-barred illustrations of the Seven Deadly Sins. On the north side of the Collegiata, San Gimignano’s most important Renaissance artwork is the superb fresco cycle made by Domenico Ghirlandaio for the small Cappella di Santa Fina. The subject, a local saint, born in 1238, was struck by an incurable disease at the age of ten. She gave herself immediately to God, repented her sins (the worst seems to have been accepting an orange from a boy), and insisted on spending the ﬁve agonizing years until her death lying on a plank on the ﬂoor. The fresco of the right-hand lunette shows Fina experiencing a vision of St Gregory. Opposite it, the Funeral of St Fina is an even more accomplished work – Raphael was especially impressed with it – showing the saint on her deathbed with the towers of San Gimignano in the background. Ghirlandaio left a self-portrait: he’s the ﬁgure behind the bishop who is saying Mass.

The rest of the town

Via di Castello continues east past the Romanesque San Lorenzo in Ponte (with fragments of a dramatic fresco of the Last Judgement) to a rural lane that winds down between vineyards to the city walls; just beyond the public wellhouse or Fonti stretches open countryside.

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| San Gimignano

A signposted lane leads from Piazza del Duomo up to the Rocca, the old fortress, with its one surviving tower and wonderful views. It was built, at local expense, by the Florentines “to remove every cause of evil thinking from the inhabitants” after their union with the comune. Later, its purpose presumably fulﬁlled, it was dismantled by Cosimo de’ Medici. Nowadays it encloses an orchard-like public garden, with ﬁgs, olives and a central well. The grand, impressively preserved Via San Matteo runs north from Piazza del Duomo. Just before the main Porta San Matteo gate, Via XX Settembre heads east to the former convent of Santa Chiara, which houses both the Galleria d’Arte Contemporaneo, with work by nineteenth- and twentiethcentury Tuscan artists, and the dreary Museo Archeologico (both open daily 11am–5.30pm; €3.50 for the two museums). In the same complex, the fragrant halls of the Spezieria di Santa Fina are ﬁlled with exhibits from the sixteenthcentury spice and herb pharmacy of the Santa Fina hospital. At the northern end of town is the large church of Sant’Agostino (daily 7am–noon & 3–7pm; Nov–March closes 6pm). Inside, an outstanding fresco cycle by Benozzo Gozzoli, the Life of St Augustine (1465), provides an amazing record of life in Renaissance Florence. Read from low down on the left, the panels depict the saint – born in what’s now Tunisia in 354 – being taken to school and ﬂogged by his teacher, studying grammar at Carthage university, crossing the sea to Italy, teaching in Rome and Milan, and being received by Emperor Theodosius. Then comes the turning-point, when he hears St Ambrose preach and, while reading St Paul, hears a child’s voice extolling him “Tolle, lege” (take and read). After this, he was baptized and returned to Africa to found a monastic community.

Eating and drinking San Gimignano has too many visitors and too few locals to ensure high standards in its restaurants. However, the tables set out on the car-free squares and lanes, and the good local wines, make for pleasant dining. Good bars are similarly thin on the ground, though each of the main piazzas has one or two pleasant places to sit and watch the world go by. Restaurants and cafés

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Gelateria di Piazza Piazza della Cisterna 4 T 0577.942.244, W www.gelateriadi piazza.com. This small but extraordinarily popular gelateria, not to be confused with similarly named neighbours, is renowned for making the best ice cream in Tuscany. Owner Sergio’s incomparable pistachio ﬂavour is made from the ﬁnest Sicilian nuts, and his trademark crema di Santa Fina is perfumed with saffron, but you’d be hard pushed to beat the trio of peach, champagne with grapefruit, and Vernaccia – a fragrant sorbet made from the crisp local white wine. Closed mid-Nov to mid-Feb. Il Pino Via Cellolese 6/8 T0577.942.225, Wwww.ristoranteilpino.it. First choice for eating, with a lovely interior, and a specialist focus on antipasti (mostly €12) plus dishes sprinkled with trufﬂe. Closed Fri lunch. La Mangiatoia Via Mainardi 5 T0577.945.28. Classical music and stained glass compete for attention with some imaginative pasta dishes

and wild boar stew. Pavement seating, plus a garden that’s open for dinner only. Mains €14–18. Closed Tues. Le Vecchie Mura Via Piandornella 15 T0577.940.270, Wwww.vecchiemura.it. Housed in an old vaulted stable set into the city walls, this place serves decent regional food (primi €8–11, secondi €10–14), but the real draw is the terrace across the road, offering the best views in town. Dinner only; closed Tues. Osteria del Carcere Via del Castello 13 T0577.941.905. Attractive and informal little osteria, just along from Piazza del Duomo. Tuscan cuisine with an innovative edge and lovely antipasti: reckon on €25–30 for three courses. Closed Wed, plus Thurs lunch. Osteria delle Catene Via Mainardi 18 T0577.941.966. Thoroughly reliable spot for straightforward Tuscan cooking, plus an extensive wine list. Increasingly elaborate set menus range from €13 up to €31. Closed Wed.

Volterra

Driving up the spectacular road that twists and turns past endless green hills to reach Volterra from the south is an extraordinary experience. As ever, though, you’ll have to park outside the walls, in the free car parks on the northern side, or the paying underground one to the south. All the various, mostly infrequent buses that climb up here arrive on the south side of the walls at Piazza Martiri. That’s a two-minute walk from the tourist office, on the central Piazza dei Priori (daily: April–Oct 9.30am–1pm & 2–6pm; Nov–March 10am–1pm & 2–6pm; T 0588.87.257, W www.provolterra.it). The best-value hotel is in a converted medieval monastery, just inside the walls at the northwest end of town: the San Lino, Via San Lino 26 (T 0588.85.250, W www .hotelsanlino.com; 3), offers comfortable rooms and a swimming pool. Down below, the attractive sixteenth-century Villa Nencini enjoys a peaceful, panoramic setting at Borgo Santo Stefano 55 (T 0588.86.386, W www.villanencini.it; 3). There’s also a youth hostel, 1km east of town in yet another converted monastery: the Ostello della Gioventu, at Via del Teatro 4 in the San Girolamo neighbourhood (T 0588.86.613,

| Volterra

Arrival, information and accommodation

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The dramatic location of VOLTERRA – built on a high plateau enclosed by volcanic hills midway between Siena and the sea – prompted D.H. Lawrence to write that “it gets all the wind and sees all the world – a sort of inland island”, and indeed, you can often ﬁnd seashells embedded in the paving of streets and squares. Busy but still atmospheric, the town’s walled medieval core is made from the yellow-grey stone panchino. Volterra is one of the most ancient of all Etruscan communities, and still abounds in Etruscan artifacts. Thanks both to its impregnable position, and its alabaster mines, the Etruscan settlement of Velathri survived through the Roman era and beyond. In due course, however, its isolation proved to be its downfall. Under Florentine control from 1360, Volterra failed to keep pace with changing trade patterns, and the town itself began to subside, its walls and houses slipping away to the west over the Balze cliffs, which form a dramatic prospect from the Pisa road. Today, Volterra occupies less than a third of its ancient extent. Tourism has boomed here recently thanks to an unlikely and incongruous source: its ﬁctional role, in Stephanie Meyer’s Twilight novels, as the home of a threethousand-year-old vampire coven known as the Volturi; the tourist office proffers a walking trail of vampire-related sites.

Volterra’s alabaster A form of crystallized chalk that has a delicate, milky texture, alabaster lends itself to the sculpture of ﬁne, ﬂowing lines and close ornamental detail. Even in quite large blocks, it is translucent. The Etruscans and Romans extensively mined Volterra’s alabaster for sculpting. Until the 1960s, large alabaster factories were scattered throughout the town centre, but – not least because of the quantity of dust they threw up – large-scale production was moved to outlying areas. These days, only about a dozen artisans are permitted to maintain workshops in the town centre, and Volterra’s famous art school is the only one in Europe to train students to work alabaster. Most of the plentiful alabaster shops in the centre are outlets for factories that produce machined pieces from the tasteful to the tacky. Alab’Arte, down the alley alongside the Museo Guarnacci at Via Orti S. Agostino 28 (T0588.87.968, Wwww .alabarte.com), is one of the few to stick to hand production.

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W www.youthhostelvolterra.com;

2 ), has dorm beds at €17, and some private en-suite doubles. The well-equipped Le Balze campsite, 1km west of the centre at Via di Mandringa 15 (T 0588.87.880, W www.campinglebalze.com; late March to mid-Oct), has a pool and tennis courts.

The Town

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Dominating the almost totally medieval square of Piazza dei Priori, the Palazzo dei Priori is the oldest town hall in Tuscany (mid-March to Oct daily 10.30am– 5.30pm; Nov to mid-March Sat & Sun 11am–5pm; €1). Constructed between 1208 and 1257, it may have served as the model for Florence’s Palazzo Vecchio. Visitors can enjoy great views from its tower, while the upstairs Sala del Consiglio has served as the town’s council chamber without interruption since 1257. Its end wall is frescoed with a huge Annunciation, attributed to Jacopo di Cione. Among the other ﬁne palazzi that loom over the square, the Palazzo Pretorio is topped by the Torre del Porcellino (Piglet’s Tower), named for a weathered boar perched on a high bracket. Just around the corner to the west, be sure not to miss the small but exquisite Museo d’Arte Sacra, Via Roma 13 (daily: mid-March to Oct 9am–1pm & 3–6pm; Nov to mid-March 9am–1pm; joint ticket with Museo Guarnacci and Pinacoteca €9). Highlights include a painted terracotta bust of St Linus by Andrea della Robbia, and a wonderful stylized, gilded thirteenthcentury Cruciﬁxion. Via Roma leads into the slightly down-at-heel cathedral square, site of the Pisan-Romanesque Duomo, consecrated in 1120 (April–Oct daily except Fri 8am–12.30pm & 3–6pm, Fri 4–6.30pm; Nov–March daily except Fri 8am–12.30pm & 3–5pm, Fri 4–6.30pm) and Baptistry (late thirteenth century). The Duomo’s greatest treasure is a sculpture of the Deposition (1228) in the south transept, disarmingly repainted in its original bright colours. Behind the baptistry is an old foundling’s hospital decorated by della Robbia. Via Marchesi heads south uphill to a lush area of grass, trees and shade known as the Parco Archeologico (daily 8.30am–dusk; free). There’s precious little archeology about the place – a few odd lumps of rock, said to be part of a Roman bathhouse – but it’s a beautiful area to stroll around. Overlooking the park to the east is the Medicean Rocca, with rounded bastions and a central tower; a fabulous specimen of Italian military architecture, it has for the last 150 years been a prison. The ﬁrst turning off Via Marchesi, Via Porta dell’Arco, runs downhill to the Arco Etrusco, an Etruscan gateway, third century BC in origin, built in cyclopean blocks of stone. The gate was narrowly saved from destruction in the last war during a ten-day battle between partisans and Nazis. The beautiful Renaissance Palazzo Minucci-Solaini, at Via dei Sarti 1, houses the Pinacoteca e Museo Civico (daily: mid-March to Oct 9am–7pm; Nov to mid-March 9am–1.45pm; €9 joint ticket with Museo Guarnacci and Museo d’Arte Sacra), where, unusually, the exhibits are comprehensively captioned in English. Its key works are Florentine: Ghirlandaio’s marvellous Christ in Glory, set in an imaginary landscape that’s very reminiscent of Volterra’s own Balze (see opposite); Luca Signorelli’s stunning Annunciation; and, best of all, Rosso Fiorentino’s extraordinary Deposition. An altarpiece, painted for the church of San Francesco in 1521, it’s a true masterpiece of Mannerism, its ﬁgures, without any central focus, creating an agitated tension from sharp lines and blocks of discordant colour. The building also contains the Eco-Museo dell’Alabastro (mid-March to Oct daily 11am–5pm; Nov to mid-March Sat & Sun 9am–1.30pm; €3), which provides an overview of alabaster working in the area from Etruscan times to the present day and has a replica sculptor’s workshop.

Not far along from the Pinacoteca, Palazzo Viti, Via dei Sarti 41 (April–Oct daily 10am–1pm & 2.30–6pm; Nov–March by appointment only; €5; T 0588.840.47), is an extensively frescoed Renaissance mansion that’s ﬁlled with alabaster, everything from two-metre-high candelabras to tiles laid in the ﬂoor of the ballroom. The Museo Etrusco Guarnacci

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| Volterra

Volterra’s Museo Etrusco Guarnacci, 500m east of Piazza dei Priori at Via Don Minzoni 15 (same hours and ticket as Pinacoteca), ranks among Italy’s most important archeological museums, specializing in this region’s rich Etruscan history. While its gloomy downstairs rooms and heavy display cases, crammed with endless minimally explained variations on a theme, are initially off-putting, the upper galleries are much lighter and more spacious, and hold some truly remarkable treasures. The star piece is the so-called Ombra della Sera (“Evening Shadow”), an elongated nude ﬁgure of a young boy that looks like a protoGiacometti. Archeologists feel that modern descriptions of this beautiful bronze statuette as being personalized, and depicting a speciﬁc individual, fail to reﬂect its original role as a votive offering. Also on the second ﬂoor, the Urna degli Sposi is a rare and artistically unique clay urn lid which features a disturbing double portrait of a husband and wife, all piercing eyes and dreadful looks. The bulk of the museum’s vast collection consists, however, of around six hundred Etruscan funerary urns. Carved in alabaster, terracotta or local sandstone or limestone, they date from the fourth to ﬁrst centuries BC, and follow a standard pattern: below a reclining ﬁgure of the subject (always leaning on their left side), bas-reliefs depict domestic events, Greek myths or simply a symbolic ﬂower – one for a young person, two for middle-aged, three for elderly. The Balze

To reach the eroded Balze cliffs, head northwest from the Piazza dei Priori. Beyond the church of San Francesco, where ﬁfteenth-century frescoes by Cenni di Francesco depict the Legend of the True Cross, you leave town through the Porta San Francesco. From here, follow Borgo Santo Stefano and its continuation, Borgo San Giusto, past the Baroque church and former abbey of San Giusto, its striking facade framed by an avenue of cypress trees. At the Balze (almost 2km west of Piazza dei Priori) you gain a real sense of the extent of Etruscan Volterra, whose old walls drop away into the chasms. Gashes in the slopes and the natural erosion of sand and clay are made more dramatic by alabaster mines, ancient and modern. Great tracts of the Etruscan and Roman city lie buried below, and landslips continue – as evidenced by the ruined eleventh-century Badia monastery ebbing away over the precipice.

Eating and drinking As a renowned centre for hunting, Volterra’s restaurant menus are dominated by wild boar (cinghiale), hare (lepre) and rabbit (coniglio). Most places are moderately priced, often offering ﬁxed-price menus for around €12–15. Particularly good value is La Vecchia Lira, Via Matteotti 19 (T 0588.86.180, W www.vecchialira .com), a rosticceria that serves take-out meals and cheap self-service lunches, but also offers excellent dinners in the dining room at the back, with most dishes, like the delicious seafood pasta mareggiata, costing around €10. Immediately opposite, L’Incontro, Via Matteotti 18 (T 0588.80.500), is a lovely nineteenth-century café, pastry shop and gelateria. One of the few restaurants to have outdoor seating, Ombra de la Serra, Via Gramsci 70 (T 0588.86.663; closed Mon), has tables nestling against a tiny chapel.

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Southern Tuscany

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The inland hills of southern Tuscany display the region at its best, an inﬁnite gradation of trees and vineyards that encompasses the depopulated crete before climbing into the hills around Monte Amiata. Southwest of Siena towards the sea, the memorable but little-visited hill-town of Massa Maríttima presides over a marshy coastal plain. Magniﬁcent monastic architecture survives in the tranquil settings of San Galgano and, further east, Monte Oliveto Maggiore, which also boasts some marvellous frescoes. The ﬁnest of the hill-towns to the south of Siena is Montepulciano, with its superb wines and an ensemble of Renaissance architecture that rivals neighbouring Pienza. Further south, the tourist crush is noticeably eased in smaller towns and villages that are often overlooked by visitors gorged on Florentine art and Sienese countryside. Wild Monte Amiata offers scenic mountain walks, Saturnia has some remarkable sulphur springs, and the isolated, dramatic medieval town of Pitigliano nurtures the amazing story – and scant remains – of what was once Tuscany’s strongest Jewish community.

Massa Maríttima The road south from Volterra over the mountains to MASSA MARÍTTIMA is scenically magniﬁcent yet little explored: classic Tuscan countryside which is given an added surreal quality around Larderello by the presence of soffioni (hot steam geysers), huge silver pipes snaking across the ﬁelds, and sulphurous smoke rising from chimneys amid the foliage. Like Volterra, Massa has been a wealthy mining town since Etruscan times. In 1225, it passed Europe’s ﬁrst-ever charter for the protection of miners; in the century afterwards, before Siena took over in 1335, its exquisite Duomo went up and the population doubled. The trend was reversed in the sixteenth century, and by 1737, after bouts of plague and malaria, it was a virtual ghost town. Massa gained its “Maríttima” suffix in the Middle Ages when it became the leading hill-town of this coastal region, even though the sea is 20km distant across a silty plain. Its recovery began with the draining of coastal marshes in the 1830s. Today, it’s a quiet but well-off town, where the effects of mining are less evident than agriculture and low-proﬁle tourism. While visitor numbers are much lower than, say, San Gimignano, Massa is the closest hill-town to several coastal resorts, and on summer evenings it ﬁlls up with beach-based day-trippers. The outskirts of Massa have been marred by modern development, but the medieval town itself at the top of the hill, divided between two very distinct levels, remains a splendid ensemble. Piazza Garibaldi, the main square of the lower section, is a perfect example of Tuscan town planning. Its thirteenthcentury Duomo, set on broad steps at a dramatically oblique angle to the square, is dedicated to the sixth-century St Cerbone, whose claim to fame was to persuade a ﬂock of geese to follow him when summoned to Rome on heresy charges. Behind the altar in its airy interior (daily 8am–noon & 3–7pm; free), the Arca di San Cerbone is a marble “ark” carved with bas-reliefs depicting the life of the saint. A modest Museo Archeologico occupies the Palazzo del Podestà opposite (Tues–Sun 10am–1pm & 3–6pm; Nov–March closes at 5pm; €5) – worth visiting for the town’s undisputed masterpiece, a superb Maestà altarpiece by Ambrogio

Lorenzetti, coloured in vivid pink, green and tangerine, with Cerbone and his geese lurking in the corner. A picturesque lane, Via Moncini, climbs steeply from the northern end of the square up to the quiet Gothic upper town, known as the Città Nuova. Passing through a gateway, you emerge beneath a slender and very spectacular – albeit militarily useless – arch that connects the high town walls to the Torre del Candeliere. Set in the centre of Piazza Matteotti, and part of the thirteenth-century Fortilizio Senese, the tower is open to visitors, who can enjoy a stupendous panorama from the top (April–Oct daily 10.30am–1.30pm & 4–7pm; Nov–March 11am–1pm & 2.30–4.30pm; €2.50).

Practicalities

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Buses connect Massa with Volterra (change at Larderello) and Siena. The helpful tourist office is just below Piazza Garibaldi at Via Todini 3/5 (daily except Tues 9.30am–1pm & 4–7pm; April, May & Nov closed Sun pm; Dec–March closed all Sun; T 0566.902.756, W www.altamaremmaturismo.it). Massa’s only central hotel is the comfortable Il Sole, Corso della Libertà 43 (T 0566.901.971, W www .ilsolehotel.it; 3 ); otherwise go for the pleasant, slightly motel-like Duca del Mare, immediately below the old town at Piazza Dante Alighieri 1 (T 0566.902.284, W www.ducadelmare.it; 2 ), which has cheery rooms and a nice pool. There’s also a good hostel, Ostello Sant’Anna, in the higher part of town, converted from a school at Via Gramsci 3 (T 0566.901.115, W digilander.libero.it/leclarisse; dorm beds €15; 9am–noon & 5pm–midnight). While bars and cafés line Piazza Garibaldi, the best restaurants are in the lanes and alleyways nearby. A La Tana del Brillo Parlante, Vicolo del Ciambellano 4 (T 0566.901.274; closed Wed), a lovely little place with a couple of outdoor tables, serves good pasta and meat dishes, while Osteria da Tronca at Vicolo Porte 5 (T 0566.901.991; dinner only, closed Wed) offers inexpensive osteria-style food.

The crete The classic Tuscan countryside that stretches south of Siena is known as the crete. This tranquil, sparsely populated region of pale clay hillsides, dotted with sheep, cypresses and the odd monumental-looking farmhouse, was a heartland of medieval monasticism in Tuscany. The Vallombrosan order maintained their main house at Torri just south of Siena; the Benedictine order had theirs at Sant’Antimo near Montalcino (see p.513); and the Cistercians founded the convent and abbey of San Galgano. Now ruined, this is one of the most alluring sights in Tuscany, complete with its hilltop chapel housing a “sword in the stone”. The ﬁnest monastery of all lies southeast of Siena, at Monte Oliveto Maggiore.

San Galgano The Abbazia di San Galgano, surrounded by majestic ﬁelds of sunﬂowers in a peaceful rural setting 26km northeast of Massa Maríttima, is perhaps the most evocative Gothic building in all Italy – rooﬂess, with grass for a ﬂoor in the nave, nebulous patches of fresco amid the vegetation, and panoramas of the sky, clouds and hills through a rose window. During the twelfth and thirteenth centuries, local Cistercian monks were the leading power in Tuscany. The abbots exercised powers of arbitration in city disputes, while the monks in Siena served as the city’s accountants. Through them, the ideas of Gothic building were imported to Italy.

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| The crete

The order began a hilltop church and monastic buildings here in 1218, but their project to build a grand abbey on the fertile land below was doomed to failure. Building work took seventy years up to 1288, but then famine struck in 1329, the Black Death in 1348, and mercenaries ran amok in subsequent decades. By 1500, all the monks had moved to the security of Siena. The buildings mouldered until 1786, when the bell tower was struck by lightning and collapsed. Three years later, the church was deconsecrated, and the complex was abandoned for good. These days, the main appeal of the abbey (unrestricted 24hr access; free) is its general state of ruin, although the basic structure has been stabilized. In summer, it makes a wonderful open-air venue for opera performances, staged on various evenings between late June and the end of July; see W www.sangalgano.org for schedules. Atop the solitary hill nearby, the unusual round Romanesque church of Monte Siepi commemorates the spot where Galgano – a local twelfth-century knight – renounced his violent past by thrusting his sword into a stone. Amazingly enough, Galgano’s sword in the stone has survived, protected under glass as an object of veneration. A side chapel preserves the decaying remains of a man’s hands: local legend has it that two wolves – companions of Galgano – tore them from a robber who had broken into the saint’s tomb. By far the easiest way to reach the abbey is to drive, though two or three buses daily between Massa Maríttima and Siena can drop passengers on the main road nearby. The abbey’s vaulted scriptorium holds a small tourist office (April–Oct Mon–Fri 10am–1pm & 3–6pm, Sat & Sun 10am–1pm & 2.30–6.30pm; T 0577.756.738, W www.prolocochiusdino.it). A nice little café faces the abbey from the far end of its entrance avenue, attached to the Fattoria le Planaie (T 0577.799.018, W www .sangalgano.org; 2 ), with comfortable en-suite rooms if you fancy spending a night or two in this isolated spot.

Monte Oliveto Maggiore

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Tuscany’s grandest monastery – the Abbazia di Monte Oliveto Maggiore, renowned for its absorbing Renaissance frescoes – stands 26km southeast of Siena, or roughly 50km east of San Galgano, in a secluded but exceptionally beautiful tract of countryside. By car, you can approach from the crossroads town of Buonconvento, climbing quickly into forests of pine, oak and cypress, and then into the olive groves that enclose the monastery. One afternoon bus daily from Siena’s train station goes to the village of Chiusure, 2km east of the abbey. When Pius II visited in 1463, it was the overall scene that impressed him: the architecture, in honey-coloured Sienese brick, merging into the woods and gardens that the Olivetan or White Benedictine monks had created from the eroded hills of the crete. The pope recognized the order within six years, and over the following two centuries this, their principal house, was transformed into one of the most powerful monasteries in the land. Only in 1810, when the monastery was suppressed by Napoleon, did it fall from inﬂuence. Today it’s maintained by a small group of Olivetan monks, who supplement their state income with a high-tech centre for the restoration of ancient books. From the gatehouse, an avenue of cypresses leads to the abbey. Signs at the bottom of the slope direct you along a walk to Blessed Bernardo’s grotto – a chapel built on the site where the founder lived as a hermit. The abbey (daily 9.15am–noon & 3.15–6pm; winter closes 5pm) is a huge complex, though much of it remains off-limits to visitors. The entrance leads to the Chiostro Grande, where the cloister walls are covered by frescoes that depict the Life of St Benedict, the founder of Christian monasticism. The fresco cycle,

which begins on the east wall, immediately to the left of worshippers emerging from the church itself, was started in 1497 by Luca Signorelli, who painted nine panels in the middle of the series that start with the depiction of a collapsing house. The colourful Antonio Bazzi, known as Il Sodoma, painted the remaining 27 scenes between 1505 and 1508. He was by all accounts a lively presence, bringing with him part of his menagerie of pets, which included badgers, depicted at his feet in a self-portrait in the third panel. There’s a sensuality in many of the secular ﬁgures, especially the young men – as beﬁts the artist’s nickname – but also the “evil women” (originally nudes, until the abbot protested). The church was given a Baroque remodelling in the eighteenth century and some superb stained glass in the twentieth. Its main treasure is the choir stalls, inlaid by Giovanni di Verona and others with architectural, landscape and domestic scenes (including a nod to Sodoma’s pets with a cat in a window). Stairs lead from the cloister up to the library, again with carving by Giovanni; sadly, it has had to be viewed from the door since the theft of sixteen of its twenty codices in 1975.

| Montepulciano

Highest of all the major Tuscan hill-towns, at more than 600m, the ravishing, self-contained community of MONTEPULCIANO stretches atop a long, narrow ridge 65km southeast of Siena. Its main street, the Corso, coils its way between scores of crumbling Renaissance palazzi and churches, here clustered around perfect little squares, there towering over tiny alleyways. Wherever stairways or mysterious passages drop down the hillside, you get sudden, stunning glimpses of the quintessential wine-growing countryside rolling off to the horizon; occasionally terraced gardens allow you to contemplate the whole stunning prospect at leisure. Henry James, who compared Montepulciano to a ship, spent most of his time here drinking – a sound policy, in view of the much-celebrated Vino Nobile, production of which dates back well over a thousand years. More recent visitors have been enticed by the drinking of blood rather than wine; Montepulciano’s ancient squares made an ideal location for the 2009 teen vampire movie New Moon.

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Montepulciano

Arrival and information Montepulciano is served by regular buses between Siena and Chiusi, and also welcomes one daily direct from Florence. The local train station is also on the Siena–Chiusi line, but it’s 10km northeast of town, and more frequent services call at the main-line station of Chiusi itself, 22km southeast; connecting buses run from both. If you’re driving, only enter the town if you have a hotel reservation; failing that, you’ll have to park outside the walls, perhaps in the free spaces to the east. The main tourist office is outside the walls at the lower end of town, at Piazza Don Minzoni 1 (April–Sept Mon–Sat 9am–12.30pm & 3–8pm, Sun 9am–12.30pm; Oct–March Mon–Sat 9.30am–12.30pm & 3–6pm, Sun 9.30am–12.30pm; T 0578.757.341, W www.prolocomontepulciano.it), though you can also pick up information in the Museo Civico higher up (see p.509).

Accommodation Montepulciano doesn’t hold nearly enough hotels to meet summer demand, though private rooms are also available. Reserve well ahead, and visit the website W www.montepulcianohotels.it. On summer nights, the town’s cool hilltop breezes offer a welcome relief from the heat at lower elevations.

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EATING & DRINKING A Gambe di Gatto Acquacheta Caffè Poliziano La Briciola La Grotta Trattoria di Cagnano

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Albergo Duomo Via San Donato 14 T 0578.757.473, W www.albergoduomo.it. A short distance from Piazza Grande, the three-star Duomo has excellent facilities and smart clean rooms, plus free private parking. 3 Bellavista Via Ricci 25 T 0578.716.341, W www.cretedisiena.com/camerebellavista. Six great-value rooms near the main square, ﬁve have en-suite bathrooms, and four superb countryside views. Cash only; free parking. No one lives here; ring an intercom, and the owner will arrive shortly. 2

La Terrazza Via Piè al Sasso 16 T0578.757.440, Wwww.laterrazzadimontepulciano.it. Peaceful, well-equipped little hotel, in an old house just below the Duomo; breakfast is served on the leafy roof terrace in summer. 3 Meuble Il Riccio Via Talosa 21 T 0578.757.713, W www.ilriccio.net. Lovely little B&B in a stunning medieval building just off Piazza Grande, with ﬁve very comfortable rooms and a mosaicﬂoored courtyard. 3

The Town TUS C ANY

| Montepulciano

The steep climb from the lowest point in Montepulciano – its northern gate, the Porta al Prato – up to the highest, the main Piazza Grande, takes around twenty minutes. It’s a delightful walk, passing a superb and unusually consistent array of Renaissance architectural treasures, as well as the town’s southern gate, the Porta delle Farine. Montepulciano’s rise to eminence began in 1511, when the town ﬁnally threw in its lot with Florence rather than Siena. The Florentines thereupon sent Antonio Sangallo the Elder to rebuild the town’s gates and walls, which he did so impressively that the council took him on to work on the town hall and a series of churches. The local nobles meanwhile hired Sangallo, his nephew Antonio Sangallo the Younger, and later the Modena-born Vignola, a founding ﬁgure of Baroque, to work on their own palazzi. Totally assured in conception and execution, this trio’s work makes a fascinating comparison with Rossellino’s Pienza. Sangallo’s ﬁrst commission was the Porta al Prato itself. Inside the gate at the ﬁrst square, Piazza Savonarola, a stone column bears the heraldic lion (marzocco) of Florence. The church of Sant’Agostino, just beyond, was designed by the earlier Medici protégé, Michelozzo, who also carved the relief above the door. Its interior holds ﬁne Sienese paintings by Lorenzo di Credi and Giovanni di Paolo. The street forks about 100m further along, where the Renaissance Loggia di Mercato overlooks Piazza dell’Erbe. Turning right off the Corso will lead you steeply up to a beautiful little piazza fronting the church of Santa Lucia, where a chapel on the right contains a fabulous Madonna by Signorelli. Just below Santa Lucia, Via del Poggiolo runs down to the church of San Francesco and continues – as the imposing Via Ricci – up to the Piazza Grande past the Sienese-Gothic Palazzo Neri-Orselli, home to the Museo Civico (Tues–Fri & Sun 10am–8pm, Sat 10am–10pm; €7). Besides an extensive collection of small-town Gothic and Renaissance works, including glazed terracottas by Andrea della Robbia, this hosts substantial temporary exhibitions each year. Piazza Grande, Montepulciano’s theatrical ﬂourish of a main square, is built on the highest point of the ridge. Its most distinctive building is the Palazzo Comunale, a thirteenth-century Gothic mansion that continues to serve as the town hall. Michelozzo added its clocktower and rustication in imitation of Florence’s Palazzo Vecchio; an upstairs ticket-office grants access to the tower itself, though disappointingly you can’t climb all the way to the top, just to the castellated terrace immediately below the clock (April–Oct Mon–Sat 10am–6pm; €2). Two of the palazzi on the square were designed by Sangallo. The highly innovative Palazzo Tarugi, alongside the lion and griffin fountain, has a public loggia cut through one corner. Headier pleasures await at the Palazzo Contucci, one of the many buildings scattered about Montepulciano that serve as cantine for the wine

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Wine tasting in Montepulciano Acclaimed since the medieval era, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano today boasts a top-rated DOCG mark; something the townspeople have not been shy in exploiting. Wine shops along the streets of Montepulciano sell gift sets, while local vineyards often offer in-town tastings (usually free, but requiring advance notice). Every restaurant can provide a range of vintages, the very cheapest of which will still set you back at least €20. The tourist ofﬁce can organize wine-tasting rambles for visitors. Among the many places to check out are the venerable Contucci at Via San Donato 15 and also in the Palazzo Contucci on the Piazza Grande (T0578.757.006, Wwww.contucci.it) – the family line in Montepulciano goes back a thousand years – and the Cantina Del Redi, Via di Collazi 5 (T0578.716.092, Wwww.cantinadelredi.com).

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| Montepulciano

trade, offering free degustazione (tastings) and sale of the Vino Nobile. Sangallo and his contemporaries never got around to building a facade for the plain brick Duomo across the square (daily 9am–1pm & 3.30–7pm; free). Its interior is an elegant Renaissance design, scattered with superb sculptures by Michelozzo, while the ﬁnest of its paintings is the Sienese Taddeo di Bartolo’s iridescent 1401 altarpiece of the Assumption, a favourite subject for Sienese artists. Sangallo’s greatest commission came in 1518, when he was invited to design the pilgrimage church of San Biagio just below the town. Set amid lush, pristine lawns, at the end of a long rural avenue, it makes a wonderful ﬁfteen-minute walk down from the centre. This was the second-largest church project of its time after St Peter’s in Rome, and exercised Antonio until his death in 1534. The result is one of the most serene Renaissance creations in Italy, constructed from a porous travertine whose soft honey-coloured stone blends perfectly into its niche in the landscape. Its major architectural novelty was the use of freestanding towers to ﬂank the facade (only one was completed). While the interior is somewhat spoiled by Baroque trompe l’oeil decoration, it remains supremely harmonious. The nearby Canonica (rectory), endowed by Sangallo with a graceful portico and double-tiered loggia, is scarcely less perfect.

Eating, drinking and entertainment Abundant restaurants line the streets and squares of Montepulciano, and you’ll also ﬁnd several small cafés, as well as plenty of places to sample the region’s Vino Nobile wine (see box above). Otherwise, nightlife and entertainment opportunities tend to be sparse, though things liven up in July during the three-week Cantiere Internazionale d’Arte (T 0578.716.368, W www.cantiere.toscana.nu or www.fondazionecantiere.it), which presents exhibitions and concerts around town. The last Sunday in August sees the Bravìo delle Botti, a barrel-race in medieval costume. In early September, the ﬁve-night, irresistibly named Live Rock Festival of Beer (W www.liverock festivalofbeer.it) is celebrated in the tiny village of Acquaviva, 10km northeast near Montepulciano’s train station. Cafés and restaurants

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Acquacheta Via del Teatro 22 T0578.717.086, Wwww.acquacheta.eu. Small traditional osteria, just down from the Duomo, that’s always busy with locals. Lots of cheese and trufﬂe, a changing menu of the day, and home-made pasta dishes from €5.50; you can get a truly memorable meal for under €20. Closed Tues.

A Gambe di Gatto Via dell’Oppio nel Corso 34 T0578.757.431. Tiny, hugely friendly bistro, with an emphasis on organic wine and olive oils, and a devotion to “slow food”. Only come if you’ve plenty of time; if you do, you’re in for a treat, with daily menus of simple but imaginative cuisine at very reasonable prices.

Caffè Poliziano Via di Voltaia nel Corso 27. This glorious wood-panelled 1868 tearoom, restored to a classic Art Nouveau design, serves tea, coffee and pastries, with free wi-ﬁ, and offers great views from a small terrace at the back. Its adjoining restaurant, Il Griﬁn d’Oro, serves full meals at around €25, including specialities like pici (fat spaghetti) with wild boar ragù. Daily 7am–midnight. La Briciola Via delle Cantine 23. Friendly restaurant with outdoor tables on a quiet alley just inside the Porta al Prato, serving quality wood-ﬁred pizza, as well as a range of ﬂavourful Tuscan primi (€8) and secondi (€12–18). Closed Wed.

La Grotta Via di San Biagio T 0578.757.607. Opposite San Biagio church, about 1km outside the city walls, this brick-vaulted sixteenth-century restaurant serves classic Tuscan cuisine and has its own garden. Typical mains cost over €20. Closed Wed. Trattoria di Cagnano Via dell Opio nel Corso 30 T 0578.758.757. Popular and bustling, this offers a wide range of pizzas, from the simple €5 margherita to the €7.50 estate (mozzarella, tomatoes, rocket, prosciutto and parmesan), as well as outside seating. Closed Mon.

| Pienza and around

The tiny, perfectly preserved village of PIENZA, 11km west of Montepulciano, is as complete a Renaissance creation as any in Italy, established as a Utopian “New Town”, in an act of considerable vanity, by Pope Pius II. A scion of the leading family of what was formerly Cortignano, he set about transforming his birthplace in 1459, under the architect Bernardo Rossellino. The cost was astronomical, but the cathedral, papal and bishop’s palaces, and the core of a town (renamed in Pius’s honour), were completed in just three years. Pius lived just two more years, and of his successors only his nephew paid Pienza any regard: intended to spread across the hill, the planned city remained village-sized. Today, despite the large number of visitors, it still has an air of emptiness and folly: a natural stage-set, where Zeffirelli ﬁlmed Romeo and Juliet. Traffic converges on Piazza Dante, just outside the main gate, Porta al Murello. From there the Corso leads straight to Rossellino’s centrepiece, Piazza Pio II, which deliberately juxtaposes civic and religious buildings – the Duomo, Palazzo Piccolomini (papal palace), Bishop’s Palace and Palazzo Pubblico – to underline the balance between church and town. While making the usual medieval nod to Florence in its town hall, the square is otherwise entirely Renaissance in conception. The Duomo boasts one of the earliest Renaissance facades in Tuscany; the interior, on Pius’s orders, took inspiration from the German hall-churches he had seen on his travels, and remains essentially Gothic. The chapels house an outstanding series of Sienese altarpieces, commissioned from the major painters of the age – Giovanni di Paolo, Matteo di Giovanni, Vecchietta and Sano di Pietro. How long the building itself will remain standing is uncertain though. Even before completion a crack appeared, and since an earthquake in the nineteenth century it has required much buttressing – the nave currently dips crazily towards the back of the church. Pius’s residence, the Palazzo Piccolomini (Tues–Sun: mid-March to mid-Oct 10am–1pm & 2–6.30pm; mid-Oct to mid-March 10am–1pm & 2–4pm, but closed early Jan to mid-Feb and last 2 weeks of Nov; open Mon on public hols; €7; W www.palazzopiccolominipienza.it) sits alongside the Duomo. Visitors are free to walk into the courtyard and through to the original “hanging garden” behind to the left, where a triple-tiered loggia offers a superb view over the valley. To see the apartments above, however, which include Pius II’s bedroom, library and other rooms ﬁlled with collections of weapons and medals, you have to join one of the frequent half-hour guided tours, for no extra charge.

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Further mementoes of the pope – notably his English-made embroidered cope – are cherished in the excellent Museo Diocesano across the piazza (Wed–Mon 10am–1pm & 3–6pm; €4.10). The true highlights there however are some stunning tapestries and, especially, paintings, including a wonderful anonymous depiction of the life of Christ in 48 tiny panels, one of which shows Jesus meeting a black devil, complete with wings and horns.

Practicalities

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| Pienza and around

Buses between Montepulciano and Buonconvento stop at both Pienza and San Quírico d’Orcia (see below). Drivers, as ever, should park outside the city walls. The very helpful, central tourist office is at no. 30 on the Corso (daily 10am–1pm & 3–6pm; T 0578.749.305, W www.comunepienza.it). In the heart of the village, the small Giardino Segreto, Via Condotti 13 (T 0578.748.539, W www.ilgiardino segretopienza.it; 3 ), offers pleasant rooms and self-catering apartments, while there’s also a beautiful, much more upscale hotel, the Relais Il Chiostro di Pienza, in a converted Franciscan monastery at Corso Rossellino 26 (T 0578.748.400, W www.relaisilchiostrodipienza.com; 5 ). As a popular day-trip destination, Pienze holds several good restaurants. Among the best are the friendly Latte di Luna, just inside the walls at Via San Carlo 6 (T 0578.748.606; closed Tues & all July), where the nice outside seating area is screened by ﬂowers, and maialino arrosto, roast suckling pig, is the house speciality; Sperone Nudo, with several tables on the delightful little Piazza di Spagna just off the main square (T 0578.748.641, W www.speronenudo.it); and the good-value Buca delle Fate, a simple trattoria serving Tuscan country food, at Corso Rossellino 38/A (T 0578.748.272; closed Mon and parts of Jan & June). Pienza is centre of a region producing pecorino sheep’s cheese, and has gone overboard on natural food shops: cheesy smells await around every corner.

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The rambling old village of SAN QUÍRICO D’ORCIA stands at a crossroads 8km west of Pienza. Its old town is quiet and rather decayed, but holds an exceptionally pretty Romanesque Collegiata church. For drivers, the stunning but inaccessible Castello Ripa d’Orcia, an isolated castle hotel-restaurant down a gravel road 5km southwest of town (T 0577.897.376, W www.castelloripadorcia.com; minimum stay two nights; closed Nov to mid-March; 5 ), makes a wonderfully peaceful place to stay. The extraordinary ancient site of BAGNO VIGNONI is tucked away 6km southeast of San Quírico. Its central square is entirely taken up by an arcaded Roman piscina, or open pool; the springs still bubble up at a steamy 51°C, and the old, ﬂooded piazza with its backdrop of the Tuscan hills and Renaissance loggia – built by the Medici, who, like St Catherine of Siena, took the sulphur cure here – made a memorable scene in Tarkovsky’s ﬁlm Nostalgia. Bathing in the piscina itself is forbidden, but you can enjoy the sulphur springs at the Piscina Val di Sole alongside, a modern spa complex that forms part of the characterful Posta Marcucci hotel (T 0577.887.112, W www.hotelpostamarcucci.it; 6 ; pool free to guests, €15 per day to others). Also facing the piscina, Pius II’s ﬁfteenthcentury summer retreat is now the romantic Albergo Le Terme (T 0577.887.150, W www.albergoleterme.it; 3 ). Several appealing restaurants are scattered on the adjacent lanes and squares, including the excellent Antica Osteria del Leone, Via dei Mulini 3 (T 0577.877.300; closed Mon), and the self-service Bottega di Cacio, Piazza del Moretto (T 0577.887.477), where shaded gardens make a great spot for an inexpensive lunch.

Montalcino Another classic Tuscan hill-town, MONTALCINO, perches 20km west of Pienza. Set within a full circuit of walls and watched over by a rocca, it looks tremendous from below – and similarly, from up in the town, the surrounding countryside strewn with vineyards, orchards and olive groves is equally impressive. A quiet place, affluent in an unshowy way from its tourist trade, Montalcino produces a top-notch DOCG wine, Brunello di Montalcino, that’s reckoned by many to be the ﬁnest in Italy. For a spell during the ﬁfteenth century, the town acquired great symbolic importance: this was the last of the Sienese comune to hold out against the Medici, the French and the Spanish, after Siena itself had capitulated. That role is acknowledged at the Siena Palio, where the Montalcino contingent – under its medieval banner proclaiming “The Republic of Siena in Montalcino” – takes pride of place.

Hotels Albergo Giardino Piazza Cavour 4 T 0577.848.257, E [email protected]. There’s really nothing special about Montalcino’s cheapest hotel rooms, but there’s no arguing with the prices, you get a friendly welcome – and some face right onto a verdant square. 2 Albergo Il Giglio Via Soccorso Saloni 5 T 0577.848.167, W www.gigliohotel .com. Stylish and appealing hotel in a central, sixteenth-century townhouse, where the pleasant air-conditioned rooms have good bathrooms and great views; some have frescoed ceilings and terraces, too. Rates include a good breakfast. 4

| Montalcino

For once, Montalcino’s streets are not too narrow to admit cars, but if you don’t have a hotel booking it’s still best to park outside the centre. Regular buses arrive in Piazza Cavour at the north end of town from Buonconvento and Siena; most pass ﬁrst through Torrenieri, from where connections head to Pienza and Montepulciano. The tourist office is just up from the central Piazza del Popolo at Costa del Municipio 1 (daily 10am–1pm & 2–5.50pm; T 0577.849.331, W www .prolocomontalcino.it). As accommodation is severely limited, it’s wise to book ahead at any time of year. Besides a handful of hotels and private rooms, numerous agriturismi can be found in the countryside immediately around town.

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Arrival, information and accommodation

Castello di Velona Località Castello di Velona, Castelnuovo dell’Abate T0577.800.101, Wwww.castellodivelona.it. Superb twenty-room, four-star hotel, isolated in lovely open countryside on its own hill and ringed by cypress, close to Castelnuovo dell’Abate, about 10km south of Montalcino. Expensive, but rates drop in low season and there are often web deals. 9 Vecchia Oliviera Via Landi 1 T 0577.846.028, Wwww.vecchiaoliviera.com. Three-star hotel on the edge of town, where the eleven ﬁne rooms form part of a well-restored former olive mill close to Porta Cerbaia and the walls, but do get some trafﬁc noise. There’s also a pool, and the patio has excellent views. 3

The Town Montalcino’s main street, Via Mazzini, leads from Piazza Cavour at the north end of town to the Piazza del Popolo, an odd little square set beneath the elongated tower of the town hall, based in all but its dimensions on that of Siena. An elegant double loggia occupies another side with, opposite, a wonderful and rather Germanic nineteenth-century café, the Fiaschetteria Italiana, which is very much the heart of town life. Steps (Scale di Via Bandi) near the café lead up to the excellent, thoroughly modernized Museo di Montalcino e Raccolta Archeologica Mediovale e Moderna (Tues–Sun 10am–1pm & 2–5.50pm; €4.50 or €6 joint ticket with the

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Rocca fortress). The quality of the art on show is out of all proportion to the size of the town, and takes in a wealth of Sienese painting and early sculpture, including a fabulous twelfth-century Cruciﬁxion. Separate basement galleries cover the early archeological history of this site, with a Neolithic burial chamber and some Bronze Age artifacts. The neighbouring church of Sant’Agostino has recently been incorporated into the complex, and can now only be entered via the museum; it’s slowly being restored, to reveal some stunning frescoes, and also host temporary exhibitions. Following Via Ricasoli south brings you to the hilltop, fourteenth-century Rocca fortress. The open space enclosed within its impressively intact walls makes a great venue for summer concerts. At the foot of one of its towers, a spacious enoteca (T 0577.849.211, W www.enotecalafortezza.it) sells the famed Brunello wine, along with bread, cheese and salami, and provides access to the ramparts (April–Oct daily 9am–8pm; Nov–March Tues–Sun 9am–6pm; €4, or €6 joint ticket with Museo Civico). The panorama that unfolds from up there is said to have inspired Leonardo’s drawing of a bird’s-eye view of the earth; on a clear day you can even see Siena.

Eating and drinking

| Monte Amiata

Montalcino is ﬁlled with good restaurants, and also holds a row of ﬁne enotecas along via Matteotti, all of which sell local wines by the glass or bottle and have pavement seating on the town side with huge views from the back. Al Giardino Piazza Cavour 1 T 0577.849.076, W www.ristorantealgiardino.it. Fine local cooking, just outside the walls that has won the approval of the Slow Food movement: the chef is the owner. Pleasant interior, while the “garden” in the name refers to its tables in the square opposite. Mains €18–20. Closed Wed. Osteria Les Barriques Piazza del Popolo 20–22 T 0577.848.411. Far and away the best food in town, in a tiny dining room out of sight of the main street; great pasta for under €10, and fabulous steaks.

Trattoria L’Angolo Via Ricasoli 9 T0577.848.017. Informal little bar-trattoria just down from the Rocca, serving snack lunches, pasta dishes for around €8, specials at €6–15, and totally divine Fiorentine beef. Closed Tues. Osteria di Porte Al Cassero Via Ricasoli 32 T0577.847.196. Indoor and outdoor seating near the Rocca, very reasonable prices, and top-notch food, from the wild boar to the tiramisù. Closed Wed. Taverna Grappolo Blu Via Scale di Moglio 1 T0577.847.150. Located in a little alley off Via Mazzini. The old stone-walled interior is cool and appealing, and the pastas are excellent.

Monte Amiata At 1738m, the extinct volcano of Monte Amiata is the highest point in southern Tuscany. Rising in a succession of hills forested in chestnut and ﬁr, it’s visible for miles around. A circle of towns rings its lower slopes, but the only one worth visiting for its own sake is Abbadia San Salvatore; nonetheless, old castles and bucolic countryside make the area a good detour. Towns such as Abbadia are refreshingly cool for summer walking, and in winter are the nearest ski resorts to Rome.

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The village of ABBADIA SAN SALVATORE, the main focus for visitors to Monte Amiata, shelters at its heart a perfect, self-contained medieval quarter. The Benedictine abbey around which it developed was founded under the Lombards and rebuilt in 1036. A mere fraction now remains of the original, and most remnants date from the Middle Ages; the highlight is a large and beautiful eighth-century crypt, its 35 columns decorated with Lombard motifs. Summer visitors arrive in droves, lured by

the landscape, cool breezes and some good easy walking paths. The best, the 29km Anello della Montagna, circles the mountain between 900m and 1300m – a long day’s walk, or easily manageable in sections round to Arcidosso. In July and August, buses shuttle up to the summit, offering a panorama that stretches to the sea. Buses serve Abbadia San Salvatore from Siena, Buonconvento, Chiusi and Montepulciano; those from Rome and Grosseto to Abbadia pass ﬁrst through Arcidosso. Avoid the Monte Amiata train station – it’s 45km away. The tourist office, Via Adua 25 (Mon–Sat 9am–1pm & 4–6pm, Sun 9am–1pm; T 0577.775.811, W www .amiataturismo.it), is headquarters for the Amiata region. Among the best value of the numerous hotels are the Cesaretti, Via Trento 37–43 (T 0577.778.198; 1 ), and the central San Marco, Via Matteotti 19 (T 0577.778.089; 2 ).

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| Pitigliano

Tuscany’s deep south, on the Lazio border, is its least visited corner. PITIGLIANO, the area’s largest town, is best approached along the road from Manciano, 15km west. As you draw close, the town soars above you on a spectacular outcrop of tufa, its quarters linked by the arches of an immense aqueduct. Etruscan tombs honeycomb the cliffs, but the town was known for centuries for its ﬂourishing Jewish community. Today it has a slightly grim grandeur, owing to its mighty fortress and the tall and largely unaltered alleys of the old Jewish ghetto. Immediately through the main city gate, Piazza Garibaldi is ﬂanked by the fortress (1459–62) and aqueduct (1543), with views across houses wedged against the cliffside. Within the fortress, the lovely interiors of the Renaissance Palazzo Orsini (April–July & Sept Tues–Sun 10am–1pm & 3–7pm; Aug daily 10am–7pm; Oct–March Tues–Sun 10am–1pm & 3–6pm; €3) are ﬁlled with jewellery and ecclesiastical ephemera. Opposite it, the Museo Archeologico (same hours; €2.50) holds an interesting collection of Etruscan vases and trinkets. The fortress backs onto Piazza della Repubblica, Pitigliano’s elongated main square. Beyond that lies the old town proper, a tight huddle of arches and medieval alleys. This is where you’ll ﬁnd the old Jewish Quarter, centred on the Via Zuccarelli, which has been turned into a sort of outdoor museum known as La Piccolo Gerusalemme (Little Jerusalem), with a kosher baker, butcher, a synagogue and a small attached Jewish museum, the Mostra Ebraico (daily except Sat: April–Sept 10am–1.30pm & 2.30–6.30pm; Oct–March 10am–12.30pm & 3–5.30pm; €3). Pitigliano’s eighteenth-century synagogue part-collapsed in the 1960s, and lay derelict until renovation in 1995. Only the grand stone arch and the stairs leading up to the women’s gallery survive from the old building, along with plaques commemorating visits made by grand dukes Ferdinand III in 1823 and Leopold II in 1829. Although the Jewish community is virtually gone, many Italian and foreign Jews still choose to tie the knot here. Staff are happy to show you around the old ghetto, which includes a bakery on Via Marghera. A few minutes’ walk beyond, at the western end of town, you can see traces of the Etruscan wall below the Porta Capisotto.

Practicalities Three RAMA buses daily from Manciano and Grosseto, two from Orbetello and one from Siena drop off on Piazza Petruccioli just outside the city gate. The helpful tourist office at Piazza Garibaldi 51 (Tues–Sun 10.30am–12.30pm & 3–7pm; T 0564.617.111, W www.comune.pitigliano.gr.it) has maps of the Vie Cave, ancient Etruscan paths that weave between tombs (some free, some with admission) and cliffside caves all around the town. The only hotel, the Guastini,

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Piazza Petruccioli 16 (T 0564.616.065, W www.albergoguastini.it; 2 ), also has a good restaurant. Alternatively, try the award-winning, mid-priced Osteria Il Tufo Allegro, carved into the cliffs at Vicolo della Costituzione 5 (T 0564.616.192; closed all Tues & Wed lunch).

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| Eastern Tuscany • Arezzo and around 516

The Valdarno (Arno valley) upstream from Florence is a heavily industrialized tract, with no compelling stop before you reach the provincial capital, Arezzo, which is visited by foreigners in their thousands for its Piero della Francesca frescoes, and by Italians in even greater numbers for its antiques trade. South of Arezzo is the ancient hill-town of Cortona, whose picturesquely steep streets and sense of hilltop isolation make it an irresistible place for a stopover.

Arezzo and around Piero della Francesca’s frescoes – which belong in the same company as Masaccio’s cycle in Florence and Michelangelo’s in Rome – are what makes AREZZO a tourist destination, but in Italy the city is equally well known for its jewellers, its goldsmiths, and its trade in antiques: in the vicinity of the Piazza Grande

Arezzo’s festivals and events Arezzo’s premier folkloric event is the Giostra del Saracino, which was ﬁrst recorded in 1535 and is nowadays held in the Piazza Grande on the ﬁrst Sunday in September. The day starts off with various costumed parades; at 5pm the action switches to the jousting arena in the piazza, with a procession of some 350 participants leading the way. Each quarter of the city is represented by a pair of knights on horseback, who do battle with a wooden efﬁgy of a Saracen king. In one hand it holds a shield marked with point scores; in the other it has a cat-o’-three-tails which swings round when the shield is hit, necessitating nifty evasive action from the rider. A golden lance is awarded to the highest-scoring rider. In the days immediately preceding the joust you’ll see rehearsals taking place, and in recent years the event has become so popular that a reduced version of the show is now held on the penultimate Saturday of June, with parades at around 8pm, followed by the main event at 9pm; to book tickets, call T0575.377.462 or see Wwww.giostradelsaracino.arezzo.it (Italian only). The musical tradition that began with Guido d’Arezzo (widely regarded as the inventor of modern notation) is kept alive chieﬂy through the international choral competition that bears his name: the Concorso Polifonico Guido d’Arezzo, held in the last week of August. The less ambitious Pomeriggi Musicali is a season of free concerts held in various churches, museums and libraries; on average there’s one concert a week from mid-January to June. The antiques fair (ﬁera antiquaria) takes over the Piazza Grande on the ﬁrst Sunday of each month and the preceding Saturday. The most expensive stuff is laid out by the Vasari loggia, with cheaper pieces lower down the square and in the side streets.

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| Arezzo and around

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PIAZZA GUIDO MONACO

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S. Francesco

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Palazzo Bacci

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Fraternità dei Laici Pieve di Santa Maria

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SS. Flora e Lucilla in Badia

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Palazzo Pretorio

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Palazzo Comunale

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Santa Maria delle Grazie

there are shops ﬁlled with museum-quality furniture, and once a month the Fiera Antiquaria turns the piazza into a vast showroom. Arezzo has been one of Tuscany’s most prosperous towns for a very long time. Occupying a site that controls the major passes of the central Apennines, it was a key settlement of the Etruscan federation, and grew to be an independent republic in the Middle Ages. In 1289, however, its Ghibelline allegiances led to a catastrophic clash with the Guelph Florentines at Campaldino; though Arezzo temporarily recovered under the leadership of the bellicose Bishop Guido Tarlati, it ﬁnally came under the control of Florence in 1384. Nowadays, while Florence’s economy has become over-reliant on tourist traffic, well-heeled Arezzo goes its own way, though in recent years it has started to market itself more seriously as a place to visit.

Arrival, information and accommodation Arezzo is a major stop for trains between Florence and Rome, and is also served by a branch line from Perugia. Buses arrive just north of the station, across Viale P. Francesca. The tourist office is outside the station, at Piazza della Repubblica 28 (mid-March to mid-Nov daily 9am–7pm; mid-Nov to mid-March Mon–Sat and 1st Sun of month 10am–6pm; T 0575.377.678, W www.apt.arezzo.it). Accommodation can be hard to come by, especially when the antiques fair is on. In addition, the town is booked solid at the end of August and beginning of

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September, when the Concorso Polifonico Guido d’Arezzo and the Giostra del Saracino (see box, p.516) follow in quick succession. There are some attractive and good-value B&Bs in town; the tourist office has details on these and on the local hostel, the Ostello Villa Severi (some way north of the centre at Via Francesco Redi 13), which is currently closed for rebuilding. Hotels and B&Bs

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| Arezzo and around

Antiche Mura Piaggia di Murello 35 T0575.20.410, Wwww.antichemura.info. This cosy six-room B&B has an excellent location, just a two-minute walk from the Duomo, with wood-beamed ceilings and stone walls giving it an appealingly rustic feel. The rooms overlooking the internal courtyard are quieter. Breakfast is taken in a nearby bar. 2 Foresteria San Pier Piccolo Via Bicchieraia 32 T 0575.370.474, W www.foresteriasanpierpiccolo .it. The nicest budget accommodation in central Arezzo, the Foresteria comprises a dozen rooms, mostly with rustic frescoes and en-suite bath, in a former convent. No credit cards. 2 Graziella Patio Via Cavour 23 T 0575.401.962, W www.hotelpatio.it. This

small, welcoming four-star is located a minute’s stroll from San Francesco. The rooms’ decor is inspired by the journeys of Bruce Chatwin: the elegant, colonial-style suite #101 is on two levels, with a bed and a roll-top bath on the mezzanine, while other rooms are decked out in an array of exotic colours. 5 Vogue Hotel Via Guido Monaco 54 T0575.24.361, Wwww.voguehotel.it. The common areas of the four-star Vogue are looking a little tired, but its 26 rooms, all with a traditional feel, have been carefully refurbished. Several boast frescoed ceilings, and many have bathtubs in the room. Avoid the overpriced “Queen” and “Vogue” rooms; the “Trend” rooms are spacious and fairly priced. 5

The Town There are two distinct parts to Arezzo: the older quarter, at the top of the hill, and the businesslike lower town, much of which remains hidden from day-trippers, as it spreads behind the train station and the adjacent bus terminal. From the station forecourt, go straight ahead for Via Guido Monaco, the traffic axis between the upper and lower town. The parallel Corso Italia, now pedestrianized, is the route to walk up the hill. The Basilica di San Francesco

In the heart of the old town, west of the main Corso Italia, stands the Basilica di San Francesco (Mon–Fri 9am–6.30pm, Sat 9am–5.30pm, Sun 1–5.30pm; Nov– March closes Mon–Fri 5.30pm, Sat & Sun 5pm), home to Piero della Francesca’s magniﬁcent fresco cycle. The frescoes are in the choir and can be seen from the nave, but you need to get closer to really appreciate them, and you’re not allowed beyond the altar steps unless you’ve bought a ticket (€6, or joint ticket – see box below): visits are limited to 25 people at a time (same hours as the church), and to thirty minutes per group. You are encouraged to book tickets in advance by phone (T 0575.352.727) or online (W www.apt.arezzo.it). However, you can make a reservation in person at the ticket office beside the church, and you may not have to wait long before getting in; in winter there’s rarely any wait at all.

Arezzo’s joint ticket

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A €10 joint ticket (biglietto unico) gives you a single admission to the following monuments and museums in Arezzo: the Museo Archeologico, the Museo Statale d’Arte Medievale e Moderna, the Casa Vasari and the della Francesca frescoes in San Francesco. The ticket can be bought at any of these four locations, but bear in mind that immediate admission to San Francesco may not be possible (see above).

Further up the Corso from San Francesco stands one of the ﬁnest Romanesque structures in Tuscany, the twelfth-century Pieve di Santa Maria (daily: May–Sept 9am–1pm & 3–7pm; Oct–April 9am–noon & 3–6pm). Its arcaded facade, elaborate yet severe, is unusual in presenting its front to a fairly narrow street rather than to the town’s main square. Dating from the 1210s, the carvings of the months over the portal are an especially lively group. Known locally as “the tower of the hundred holes”, the campanile was added in the fourteenth century. The oldest section of the chalky grey interior is the raised sanctuary, where the altarpiece is Pietro Lorenzetti’s Madonna and Saints polyptych, painted in 1320. The unfamiliar saint on the far left, accompanying Matthew, the Baptist and John the Evangelist, is St Donatus, the second bishop of Arezzo, who was martyred in 304. His relics are in the crypt, encased in a beautiful gold and silver bust made in 1346. On the other side of the Pieve, the steeply sloping Piazza Grande has an unusual assortment of buildings, with the wooden balconied apartments on the east side facing the apse of the Pieve, the Baroque Palazzo dei Tribunali and the Palazzetto della Fraternità dei Laici, which has a Renaissance upper storey and a Gothic lower. The piazza’s northern edge is formed by the arcades of the Loggia di Vasari, occupied by restaurants and shops that in some instances still retain their original sixteenth-century stone counters.

| Arezzo and around

The Pieve di Santa Maria and the Piazza Grande

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Built in the 1320s, the plain basilica earned its renown in the early 1450s, when the Bacci family commissioned Piero della Francesca to depict The Legend of the True Cross, a story in which the wood of the Cross forms the link in the cycle of redemption that begins with humanity’s original sin. Starting with the Death of Adam on the right wall, Piero painted the series in narrative sequence, working continuously until about 1457. However, the episodes are not arranged in narrative sequence, as the artist preferred to paint them according to the precepts of symmetry: thus the two battle scenes face each other across the chapel, rather than coming where the story dictates. The literary source for the cycle, the Golden Legend by Jacopo de Voragine, is a very convoluted story, but the outline of the tale is as follows: a sprig from the Tree of Knowledge is planted in Adam’s mouth; Solomon orders a bridge to be built from wood taken from the tree that grew from Adam’s grave (below the Death of Adam, to the left); the visiting Queen of Sheba kneels, sensing the holiness of the wood, and then later (to the right) tells Solomon of her prophecy that the same wood will be used to crucify a man; Solomon then orders the beam to be buried (back wall, middle right); the Emperor Constantine (back wall, lower right) has a vision of victory under the sign of the Cross; Constantine defeats his rival Maxentius (lower right wall); under torture, Judas the Levite (back wall, middle left) reveals to St Helena, mother of Constantine, the burial places of the crosses from Golgotha, which are then excavated (middle left wall); the True Cross is recognized when it brings about a man’s resurrection; and the Persian king Chosroes, who had stolen the Cross, is defeated by Emperor Heraclius (lower left wall), who returns the Cross to Jerusalem (upper left wall).

The Duomo and around

At the highest point of town looms the large and unfussy Duomo (daily 7am–12.30pm & 3–6.30pm). Inside, just beyond the organ, is the tomb of Bishop Guido Tarlati, head of the comune of Arezzo during its resurgence in the early fourteenth century; the monument, plated with reliefs showing scenes from the militaristic bishop’s career, was possibly designed by Giotto. The small fresco nestled against the right side of the tomb is Piero della Francesca’s Magdalene, his only work in Arezzo outside San Francesco.

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A short distance north of the Duomo you’ll come across the basilica of San Domenico (daily 8am–7pm), where, above the high altar, hangs a dolorous Cruciﬁx by Cimabue (1260), painted when the artist was about 20. Signs point the way to the nearby Casa Vasari, Via XX Settembre 55 (Mon & Wed–Sat 8.30am–7.30pm, Sun 8.30am–1.30pm; €2), designed and decorated luridly by the celebrated biographer-architect-painter for himself. Down the slope, at Via San Lorentino 8, the ﬁfteenth-century Palazzo Bruni-Ciocchi houses the Museo Statale d’Arte Medievale e Moderna (Tues–Sun 8.30am–7pm; €4), with a collection of minor paintings by local artists and majolica work dating from the thirteenth to the eighteenth centuries. South of the centre

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| Arezzo and around

All the principal sights are in the upper part of town, with two exceptions. The Museo Archeologico (daily 8.30am–7.30pm; €4), which occupies part of a monastery built into the wall of the town’s Roman amphitheatre, is impressive chieﬂy for the marvellously coloured coralline vases produced here in the ﬁrst century BC – the skill of Arezzo’s glassblowers achieved a reputation throughout the Roman world. A ten-minute walk away, south of the city centre at the end of Viale Mecenate, stands Arezzo’s most exquisite church, Santa Maria delle Grazie (daily 8am–7pm). Built at the instigation of St Bernardino, the church is fronted by a tiny pine-ringed meadow that’s ﬂanked by a pair of arcades, and is entered through a delicate portico built by Benedetto da Maiano in the 1470s. The church is essentially a single room, containing little more than a few seats and an altarpiece by Parri Spinello, painted on the instructions of St Bernardino; the beautiful marble-and-terracotta altar that encases it was created by Andrea della Robbia.

Eating and drinking Arezzo’s restaurants are of a generally high standard, and you’ll ﬁnd some nice cafés around piazzas Guido Monaco, Grande and San Francesco. For picnic provisions you can’t do better than Sbarbacipolle, at Via Garibaldi 120.

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Antica Osteria L’Agania Via Mazzini 10 T 0575.29.381. A very good and informal trattoria with welcoming atmosphere and local dishes (special emphasis on trufﬂes and mushrooms in season) at around €25 per head; it draws much of its clientele from the antiques dealers. The Antica Vineria next door serves soups, salads, and cheese and meat plates at even lower prices in a bustling dining room. Tues–Sun noon–3.30pm & 6.30–11pm. Fiaschetteria de’ Redi Via de’ Redi 10. Busy little osteria with a superb range of vintages and decent simple meals, such as big salads and bruschette (€6–7). Daily 11.30am–3pm & 7pm–midnight; closed Mon in winter Il Cantuccio Via Madonna del Prato 76 T 0575.26.830. Good-value food served in a pleasant vaulted cellar. The home-made pasta dishes are particularly delicious. Expect to pay in the region of €25 per person. Thurs–Tues noon–2.30pm & 7–10.30pm.

Il Gelato Via de’ Cenci 24. This gelateria off Corso Italia serves Arezzo’s best ice cream; the speciality is the pane e nutella ﬂavour, a caloriﬁc concoction of hazelnut, chocolate and brioche. Thurs–Tues 11am–midnight, closes 8pm in winter months; closed Jan & Dec. Il Saraceno Via Mazzini 6 T 0575.27.644. Familyrun trattoria, founded in 1946, with a good wine cellar and traditional Aretine specialities (notably duck) at around €30 per head; good wood-oven pizzas too. Thurs–Tues noon–3.30pm & 7–11pm; closed two weeks in Jan. Miseria e Nobiltà Via Piaggia di San Bartolomeo 2 T 0575.21.245. With its enticing creative Italian menu and medieval vaulted dining room, this stylish (but not expensive) place makes a refreshing change from the town’s more traditional restaurants. It’s busiest (and more atmospheric) at dinner. Tues 6pm–12.30am, Wed–Sun 12.30–2.30pm & 6pm–12.30am.

East of Arezzo: the Piero trail

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| Cortona

Arezzo is the springboard for the Piero della Francesca art itinerary, which extends eastwards to Urbino and Rimini via the village of MONTERCHI, famous as the home of the Madonna del Parto, a rare depiction of the pregnant Madonna. The painting is now the focal point of a museum (daily 9am–1pm & 2–7pm; Nov–March closes 5pm; €3.50), with displays on the history of the fresco and the story of its restoration, as well as a 40-minute video on the life of the artist. SANSEPOLCRO, 25km northeast of Arezzo (served by SITA and Baschetti buses and by trains from Perugia and Città di Castello), is where Piero della Francesca was born in the 1410s, and where he spent much of his life. The Museo Civico, at Via Niccolò Aggiunti 65 (daily: June 15–Sept 15 9.30am–1.30pm & 2.30–7pm; rest of year 9.30am–1pm & 2.30–6pm; €6), houses a sizeable collection of pictures, including work by Pontormo and Santi di Tito, but the primary focus of attention is della Francesca’s Resurrection. Painted for the adjoining town hall in the 1450s and moved here in the sixteenth century, it’s one of the most overpowering images of the event ever created, with a muscular Christ stepping onto the edge of the tomb – banner in hand – as if it were the rampart of a conquered city. Elsewhere in the museum, an early della Francesca masterpiece, the Madonna della Misericordia polyptych, epitomizes the graceful solemnity of his work. The best place to stay is the welcoming A Albergo Fiorentino at Via Luca Pacioli 56 (T 0575.740350, W www.albergoﬁorentino.com; 2 ), which has been in business since 1807. On the same premises is a very good restaurant, the Fiorentino (closed Wed), where you can expect to pay around €30 a head, as well as a small B&B, La Locanda del Giglio (T 0575.742.033, W www.ristoranteﬁorentino.it; 2 ). Another very good restaurant in the same price range is the family-run Da Ventura, Via Niccolò Aggiunti 30 (T 0575.742.560; closed Sun eve & Mon).

Cortona Travelling south from Arezzo you enter the Valdichiana, reclaimed swampland that is now prosperous farming country. From the valley ﬂoor, a 5km road winds up through terraces of vines and olives to the hill-town of CORTONA, whose heights survey a vast domain: the Valdichiana stretching westwards, with Lago Trasimeno visible over the low hills to the south. The steep streets of Cortona are more or less untouched by modern building: limitations of space have conﬁned almost all later development to the lower suburb of Camucia, which is where the approach road begins. Even without its monuments and art treasures, this would be a good place to rest up, with decent hotels and excellent restaurants. In recent years, though, Cortona’s tourist traffic has increased markedly, in the wake of Frances Mayes’ Under the Tuscan Sun and Bella Tuscany, books that continue to entice coachloads of her readers to the town. Accordingly, you’d be well advised to book accommodation well in advance between Easter and late September, especially during the Tuscan Sun Festival (W www.tuscansunfestival.com), in late July or early August, which features everything from opera and ballet to cooking demonstrations and visits to local vineyards.

Arrival, information and accommodation Cortona is easily visited as a day-trip from Arezzo, but in many ways it’s the more pleasant of the two in which to spend the night. There are hourly LFI buses between the two towns, and stopping trains from Arezzo call at Camucia-Cortona station,

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from where a bus (roughly every 30min) takes ten minutes to run up to the old town; buy tickets at the station bar. Florence–Rome trains stop at Teróntola, 10km south, which is also served by a bus every one to two hours (25min to Cortona’s Piazza Garibaldi); Teróntola is the station to get off at if you are approaching from Umbria. The centre is closed to all but essential traffic, so if you’re driving you should use one of the free car parks on the periphery. The tourist office is at Via Nazionale 42 (mid-May to Sept Mon–Fri 9am–1pm & 3–6pm, Sun 9am–1pm; Oct to mid-May Mon–Fri 9am–1pm & 3–6pm, Sat 9am–1pm; T 0575.630.352, W www.cortonaweb.net). Hotels

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| Cortona

Sabrina Via Roma 37 T 0575.630.397, Wwww .cortonastorica.com. A cosy and inexpensive eightroom three-star; the breakfasts are excellent and it has a nice family atmosphere. 2 San Michele Via Guelfa 15 T0575.604.348, W www.hotelsanmichele.net. The most luxurious central choice, this handsome 43-room four-star has been converted from a rambling medieval townhouse. The rooms are a generous size, even if the decor is rather routine; the suites, though much pricier at around €250, are worth splashing out on, especially no. 214, which offers marvellous views from its private terrace. 3 Villa Marsili Via Cesare Battisti 13 T 0575.605.252, W www.villamarsili.net. Situated a short distance down the slope from Piazza Garibaldi, this friendly four-star – occupying

an eighteenth-century villa – has airy rooms nicely furnished with antiques: most command photogenic views of the Valdichiana. The breakfast is excellent, and thoughtful touches such as free early-evening aperitivi and post-dinner cantuccini are a bonus. 5

Hostel Ostello San Marco Via G. Maffei 57 T0575.601.392, W www.cortonahostel.com. Clean and spacious 80-bed HI hostel in the heart of the town in an old monastery, with fantastic views from the second-ﬂoor dorms. The management is friendly, a simple breakfast is included and bikes are available free of charge. Open mid-March to mid-Oct; reception daily 7–10am & 3.30–10pm. Dorm beds €16; doubles and family rooms available (€20 per person; bunk beds only).

The Town

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From Piazza Garibaldi Via Nazionale, the only level street in town, connects to Piazza della Repubblica, which is overlooked by the grandstand staircase of the squat Palazzo del Comune. Just behind is Piazza Signorelli, named after Luca Signorelli (1441–1523), Cortona’s most famous son, and site of the Museo dell’Accademia Etrusca e della Città di Cortona – or MAEC, for short (April–Oct daily 10am–7pm; Nov–March Tues–Sun 10am–5pm; €8, or €10 combined ticket with Museo Diocesano). On the lowest ﬂoor, which charts the development of Cortona from the earliest recorded settlements to Roman times, some spectacular specimens of Etruscan gold, turquoise and crystal jewellery catch the eye. Upstairs there’s a good deal more Etruscan material on show, most notably a bronze lamp from the fourth century BC, which is honoured with a room all to itself. Etruscan and later bronze ﬁgurines ﬁll an avenue of cabinets in the middle of the main hall, surrounded by some fairly undistinguished pictures, though Pietro da Cortona, Signorelli and Pinturicchio provide a few highlights. Piazza Signorelli links with Piazza Duomo, where the Duomo (daily 8am–12.30pm & 3–6.30pm) sits hard up against the city walls. The interior is rather chilly, but there’s a Pietro da Cortona Nativity on the third altar on the left, and a possible Andrea del Sarto (an Assumption) to the left of the high altar. Across the little piazza, a couple of churches have been knocked together to form the Museo Diocesano (same hours as MAEC; €5, or €10 combined ticket), where the highlight of the small collection of Renaissance art is an exquisite Annunciation, painted by Fra’ Angelico when he was based at Cortona’s monastery of San Domenico.

In the upper town, the most engaging building is San Niccolò (daily 10am–noon & 5–7pm), a frail little church with a gravel forecourt, a delicate portico and a ﬁne wooden ceiling that’s sagging with age. Signorelli’s high altarpiece is a standard which he painted on both sides – ring the bell and the caretaker will take you to see it. Near the summit of the town stands Santa Margherita (daily 9am–noon & 3.30–7pm), resting place of St Margaret of Cortona, the town’s patron saint. Her tomb, with marble angels lifting the lid of her sarcophagus, was created in the mid-fourteenth century, and is now mounted on the wall to the left of the chancel, while her remains are on display in a glass coffin directly behind the chancel.

Eating and drinking For a town of its size, Cortona has an abundance of good restaurants, most within a very short distance of Piazza della Repubblica.

| Travel details

Agostina is the chef and teenage daughter Francesca is the sommelier. You can eat very well for €40. Daily noon–4pm & 7–11.30pm; closed Mon in winter. Osteria del Teatro Via Maffei 5 T 0575.630.556. Occupying the whole lower ﬂoor of a rambling old mansion, this is a good-naturedly busy (sometimes frantic) place, featuring delicious home-made pastas on a meat-heavy menu; portions are generous and the prices more than fair – the bill should be around €35 per person. Thurs–Tues noon–2.30pm & 7–10pm; closed three weeks in Nov. Route 66 Via Nazionale 78. This self-styled “music bar” with DJs at weekends attracts the youngest crowd in town. It does food too, but it’s not the nosh that makes it popular. Daily 11am–2am; closed Mon in winter.

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Dardano Via Dardano 24 T 0575.601.944. This excellent, unpretentious and inexpensive trattoria is full to bursting most nights. With its appealing menu of local dishes, it’s a good place for a hearty meal, followed by the house digestivo, made from laurel leaves. Thurs–Tues noon–2.45pm & 7–10pm. Fuﬂuns Via Ghibellina 1–3 T 0575.604.140. There’s a full menu of Tuscan dishes on offer, but this spacious and bustling place is best known for its generous pizzas. Booking advised at weekends. Wed–Mon 12.15–2.30pm & 7.15–10.30pm. La Bucaccia Via Ghibellina 17 T 0575.606.039. Husband-and-wife team Romano and Agostina are at the helm of this reﬁned restaurant, with an atmospheric stone-walled dining room and 500-bottle wine cellar. Jovial Romano is a certiﬁed cheese expert,

Travel details Trains Arezzo to: Assisi (12 daily; 1hr 35min); Bolzano (3 daily; 5–7hr); Camucia-Cortona (hourly; 20min); Chiusi (hourly; 1hr); Florence (hourly; 1hr); Foligno (every 2hr; 1hr 45min); Orvieto (hourly; 50min–1hr 20min); Perugia (8 daily; 1hr 10min); Rome (hourly; 1hr 40min); Teróntola-Cortona (hourly; 25min); Venice (5 daily; 5hr); Verona (3 daily; 3hr 30min–4hr 45min). Empoli to: Florence (every 30min; 35min); Pisa (every 30min; 30–55min); Siena (every 30min; 55min–1hr 10min). Florence to: Arezzo (hourly; 1hr); Assisi (8 daily; 2hr–2hr 30min); Bari (15 daily; 7hr–9hr 30min, change at Bologna or Rome); Bologna (every 30min; 1hr–1hr 40min); Bolzano (5 daily; 4hr–4hr 30min);

Empoli (every 20min; 30min); Genoa (2 daily; 3hr 10min); Lecce (13 daily; 9hr 10min–15hr, change at Bologna or Rome); Livorno (12 daily; 1hr 30min); Lucca (every 30min; 1hr 15min–1hr 45min); Milan (hourly; 2hr 45min–3hr 30min); Naples (hourly; 3hr 30min–5hr); Perugia (8 daily; 1hr 35min–2hr 10min); Pisa airport (6 daily; 70–1hr 30min); Pisa central (every 30min; 60–1hr 20min); Pistoia (every 20–30min; 40–55min); Prato (every 20–30min; 20–30min); Reggio Calabria (from Campo Marte 5 direct trains daily; 9hr 15min–11hr; from Santa Maria Novella, changing at Rome 6 daily; 8hr 10min–10hr); Rimini (hourly; 2hr 20min–3hr 30min, change at Bologna); Rome (every 20min; 1hr 45min–3hr 40min); Siena (hourly; 1hr 30min–2hr); Trieste (3 daily; 4hr 40min–6hr 20min); Udine (3 daily; 4hr 20min–6hr);

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Venice (9 daily; 2hr 50min–3hr 45min); Verona (6 daily; 2hr 20min–2hr 45min); Viareggio (14 daily; 1hr 20min–1hr 55min). Grosseto to: Cécina (17 daily; 45min–1hr 20min); Florence (6 daily; 3hr); Livorno (hourly; 1hr 10min–2hr); Orbetello (16 daily; 20–30min); Pisa (hourly; 1hr 20min–2hr 20min); Rome (hourly; 1hr 40min–2hr 20min). Livorno to: Florence (12 daily; 1hr 25min); La Spezia (hourly; 1hr–1hr 30min); Pisa (every 20min; 20min); Rome (19 daily; 2hr 30min–3hr 45min). Lucca to: Florence (every 30min; 1hr 20min–1hr 45min); Pisa (every 30min; 30min); Pistoia (every 30min; 40min–1hr); Rome (15 daily; 3hr 15min); Viareggio (every 30min; 20–30min). Pisa to: Empoli (every 30min; 30–55min); Florence (every 30min; 1hr–1hr 30min); Livorno (every 20min; 15min); Lucca (every 30min; 30min); Viareggio (every 30min; 15–20min). Prato to: Pistoia (every 20–30min; 15min). Siena to: Asciano (15 daily; 30min); Buonconvento (hourly; 25min); Chiusi (hourly; 1hr 20min); Empoli (every 30min; 1hr); Grosseto (10 daily; 1hr 30min).

Buses Arezzo to: Città di Castello (14–17 daily; 1hr 30min); Cortona (hourly; 1hr 10min); Monterchi (2–6 daily; 40min); Sansepolcro (20 daily; 1hr). Cortona to: Chianciano (4 daily; 1hr), changing for Montepulciano. Florence to: Castellina in Chianti (3 daily; 1hr 35min); Greve in Chianti (3 daily; 1hr 5min); Radda in Chianti (2–3 daily Mon–Sat; 1hr 35min); Siena (30 daily; 1hr 20min–3hr); Volterra (6 daily; 2hr 25min). In addition to these state-owned SITA services,

numerous independent bus companies operate from Florence to most Tuscan towns, including Arezzo, Grosseto, Lucca, Pisa, Sansepolcro and Viareggio. Livorno to: Piombino (8 daily; 2hr). Lucca to: Florence (30 daily; 1hr 15min); La Spezia (7 daily; 2hr 20min); Livorno (3 daily; 1hr 20min); Pisa (35 daily; 40min); Pisa airport (3 daily; 1hr); Viareggio (30 daily; 40min). Massa Maríttima to: Piombino (2 daily; 25min); San Galgano (2 daily; 1hr). Montalcino to: Buonconvento (hourly; 35min); Monte Amiata (2 daily; 1hr). Montepulciano to: Buonconvento (7 daily; 1hr); Chiusi (every 30min; 50min); Pienza (7 daily; 20min); San Quírico (7 daily; 40min). Pisa to: Florence (hourly; 1hr 10min); La Spezia (7 daily; 1hr 20min); Livorno (every 30min; 45min); Viareggio (hourly; 20min). San Gimignano to: Poggibonsi (hourly; 35min). Siena to: Abbadia San Salvatore (3 daily; 1hr 20min); Arezzo (4 daily; 2hr); Buonconvento (8 daily; 30min); Florence (30 daily; 1hr 20min–3hr); Massa Maríttima (3 daily; 1hr 20min); Montalcino (6 daily; 1hr); Montepulciano (5 daily; 1hr 20min); Pisa (1 daily; 2hr 20min); Poggibonsi (half-hourly; 30min–1hr); Rome (8 daily; 3hr); San Galgano (3 daily; 40min); San Gimignano (12 daily; 1hr 15min); Volterra (4 daily; 2hr). Volterra to: Colle Val d’Elsa (for connections to Florence & Siena; 6 daily; 45min); Pisa (1 daily; 1hr 10min).

Ferries Livorno to: Capraia (1–2 daily; 3hr). Piombino to: Portoferraio (10–22 daily; 50min).

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CHAPTER 9

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Galleria Nazionale dell’Umbria The region’s ﬁnest and largest collection of medieval and Renaissance Umbrian paintings. See p.533

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San Francesco, Montefalco One of Umbria’s best small galleries, with a major fresco cycle by Benozzo Gozzoli. See p.555

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Gubbio Best looking of Umbria’s medieval hill-towns, and without Assisi’s crowds and commercialism. See p.541

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Valnerina A verdant, mountain-edged valley dotted with hill-villages and spectacular views. See p.564

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Basilica di San Francesco Burial place of St Francis and one of Italy’s great buildings, with frescoes by Giotto and Simone Martini. See p.548

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Piano Grande A glorious upland plain, the centrepiece of the Monti Sibillini national park. See p.565

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Valle di Spoleto A swathe of country with four of the region’s most compelling villages: Spello, Bevagna, Trevi and Montefalco. See p.552

Duomo, Orvieto On a par with the cathedrals in Milan and Siena, Orvieto’s Duomo has a glorious facade and a majestic fresco cycle by Luca Signorelli. See p.574

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The village of Castelluccio in the Piano Grande

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Umbria

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ften referred to as “the green heart of Italy”, Umbria is a predominantly beautiful and – despite the many visitors – a largely unspoiled region of rolling hills, woods, streams and valleys. Within its borders it also contains a dozen or so classic hill-towns, each resolutely individual and crammed with artistic and architectural treasures to rival bigger and more famous cities. To the east, pastoral countryside gives way to more rugged scenery, none better than the dramatic twists and turns of the Valnerina and the high mountain landscapes of the Parco Nazionale dei Monti Sibillini. Umbria was named by the Romans after the mysterious Umbrii, a tribe cited by Pliny as the oldest in Italy, and one that controlled territory reaching into presentday Tuscany and Le Marche. Although there is scant archeological evidence about them, it seems that their inﬂuence was mainly conﬁned to the east of the Tiber; the darker and more sombre towns to the west – such as Perugia and Orvieto – were founded by the Etruscans, whose rise forced the Umbrii to retreat into the eastern hills. Roman domination was eventually undermined by the so-called barbarian invasions, in the face of which the Umbrians withdrew into fortiﬁed hill-towns, paving the way for a pattern of bloody rivalry between independent city-states that continued through the Middle Ages. Weakened by constant warfare, most towns eventually fell to the papacy, entering a period of economic and cultural stagnation that continued to the very recent past. Historically, however, Umbria is best known as the birthplace of several saints, St Benedict and St Francis of Assisi being the most famous, and for a religious tradition that earned the region such names as Umbra santa, Umbra mistica and la terra dei santi (“the land of saints”). The landscape itself has contributed much to this mystical reputation, and even on a ﬂeeting trip it’s impossible to miss the strange quality of the Umbrian light, an oddly luminous silver haze that hangs over the hills. After years as an impoverished backwater, Umbria has capitalized on its charms. Foreign acquisition of rural property is now as rapid as it was in Tuscany thirty years ago, though outsiders have done nothing to curb the region’s renewed sense of identity and youthful enthusiasm, nor to blunt the artistic initiatives that have turned Umbria into one of the most ﬂourishing cultural centres in Italy. Most visitors head for Perugia, Assisi – the latter with its extraordinary frescoes by Giotto in the Basilica di San Francesco – or Orvieto, whose Duomo is one of the greatest Gothic buildings in the country. For a taste of the region’s more understated qualities, it’s best to concentrate on lesser-known places such as Todi, Gubbio, ranked as the most perfect medieval centre in Italy, and Spoleto, for many people the outstanding Umbrian town. Although there are few unattractive parts of the Umbrian landscape (the factories of Terni and the Tiber valley being the largest blots), some districts are especially enticing: principally the mountainous Valnerina,

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Piano Grande and Lago Trasimeno, the last of which is the largest lake in the Italian peninsula, with plenty of opportunities for swimming and watersports. Getting around the region by public transport presents no problems. Distances between the main sights are short, and there are excellent rail links both within the region and to Florence and Rome. The official tourist board website for the area is W www.regioneumbria.eu. For travel information, visit W www.trasporti .regione.umbria.it.

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The provincial capital, PERUGIA, is the most obvious place to kick off a tour of Umbria. There’s at least a day’s worth of good sightseeing here, and it’s not a bad place to base yourself if you want to explore the surrounding area: it has big-city

amenities and trains run to all the major highlights, complemented by fast new roads and an extensive bus network.

Arrival and information

The cuisine of landlocked, hilly Umbria relies heavily on rustic staples – pastas and roast meats – and in the past tended to be simple and homely. The region is also the only area outside Piemonte where trufﬂes are found in any abundance, and their perfumed shavings, particularly in the east of the region, ﬁnd their way onto eggs, pasta, ﬁsh and meat – but at a price that prohibits overindulgence. Meat plays a leading role – especially lamb and pork, which is made into hams, sausage, salami and, most famously, porchetta, whole suckling pig stuffed with rosemary or sage, roasted on a spit. Game may also crop up on some menus, most often as pigeon, pheasant or guinea fowl. The range of ﬁsh is restricted by the lack of a coast, but trout can be caught from the Nera river and Clitunno springs, while the lakes of Piediluco and Trasimeno yield eels, pike, tench and grey mullet. Vegetable delicacies include tiny lentils from Castelluccio, beans from Trasimeno, and celery and cardoons from around Trevi. Umbrian olive oil, though less hyped than Tuscan oils, is of excellent quality – about 90 percent is extra virgin - particularly that from around Trevi and Spoleto. As for desserts, Perugia is renowned for its chocolate and pastries. Cheeses tend to be standard issue, although some smaller producers survive in the mountains around Norcia and Gubbio. Umbria used to be best known outside Italy for fresh, dry white wines. Orvieto, once predominantly a medium-sweet wine, has been revived in a dry style. The wine was beloved of the artists and architects of Orvieto’s Duomo: Luca Signorelli requested a thousand litres per year by contract. In recent years the pre-eminence of Orvieto in the domestic market has been successfully challenged by Grechetto, an inexpensive and almost unfailingly good wine made by countless producers across the region. Umbria’s quest for quality is also increasingly reﬂected in a growing number of small producers, many of which have followed the lead of Giorgio Lungarotti, one of the pioneers of Umbrian viticulture (any wine with his name on is reliable), and in some outstanding reds, notably the Torgiano Rosso Riserva DOCG and the Sagrantino DOCG of Montefalco. The region has four wine routes (strade del vino): the Strada del Sagrantino, around Montefalco; the Strada dei Vini del Cantico between Todi, Perugia, Torgiano, Spello and Assisi; the Strada del Vino Colli del Trasimeno; and the Strada dei Vini Etrusco-Romano, in the province of Terni.

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Regional food and wine

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Arriving by air (Ryanair ﬂies from the UK) you’ll land at the Aeroporto Regionale Umbro Sant’Egido (T 075.592.141, W www.airport.umbria.it), 12km east of the centre. White minibus shuttles (€3.50; 15min) meet incoming ﬂights and run to Piazza Italia. A taxi should cost €25. Rome’s Fiumicino airport (see p.621) is another option, with three direct buses to Perugia’s bus station daily (2 on Sundays; 3hr 45min; €14.50 one way). Arriving on the state train network you’ll ﬁnd yourself to the southwest of the centre at Piazza Vittorio Veneto. Avoid walking into town from here – it’s a steep haul on busy roads. The bus takes ﬁfteen minutes (anything to Piazza Italia or Piazza Matteotti will do), or hop on the new Minimetrò light rail system from the Stazione Fontivegge, 50m to the left of the station exit. There are shuttles every three minutes, and it takes 11 minutes to climb the hill to the historic centre. The second stop, Cupa, drops you just west of the centre near Via dei Priori, while the last stop, Pincetto, is right in the centre, off Piazza Matteotti.

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Umbria’s festivals The town’s main cultural draw in summer is Umbria Jazz, Italy’s foremost jazz event. This ten-day extravaganza takes place in mid-July and features the top names in the jazz world, performing in atmospheric venues throughout town. Tickets for big names can be steep, but prices for many events start at €11.50 and there are free events in Piazza IV Novembre and the Giardini Carducci. Book well in advance on Wwww.umbria jazz.com. In mid-September, the town hosts the Sagra Musicale Umbra (Wwww .perugiamusicaclassica.com), one of Italy’s oldest music festivals, with performances of religious orchestral and choir music. In October, Eurochocolate (Wwww.eurochocolate .perugia.it) is a large-scale celebration of the world’s favourite confectionary – and Perugia’s most famous export – with lessons, tasting sessions and exhibitions.

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Tickets (valid on buses and Minimetrò) are available from the station newsagents and the booth outside the station. If you’re coming on the private FCU (Ferrovie Centrale Umbra) lines from Todi or Terni to the south, or from Città di Castello or Sansepolcro to the north, you’ll arrive at the more central Stazione Sant’Anna, near the bus terminal at Piazza dei Partigiani. From this large square you can jump on a scala mobile (escalator) as it climbs through weird subterranean streets to Piazza Italia. If you’re arriving by car all the town’s approaches are up steep hills and the centre is closed to traffic at peak times. You’ll do best to leave your car at the main train station and take a bus. Alternatively you could head towards one of the big car parks – Piazza dei Partigiani is the largest and most central, or you can park in the free car park at Pian di Massiano just west of town and take the Minimetrò from there into the centre. The tourist office is at Piazza Matteotti 18 (daily 8.30am–6.30pm; T 075.573.6458 or 075.577.2686, W www.regioneumbria.eu). There is also a private information office, InfoUmbria, on the northeast corner of Piazza dei Partigiani (Mon–Fri 9am–1pm & 2.30–6.30pm, Sat 9am–1pm; T 075.5757, W www.umbriabest.com), which has a free hotel booking service and organizes cultural, gastronomic and nature tours (T 075.25.909, W www.visito.org).

Accommodation Perugia has plenty of accommodation in all price ranges, although during term time long-stay students tend to monopolize the cheapest options. As in most of Umbria’s main towns, it’s a good idea to book in advance, especially during the festivals (see box above), when room rates may well be raised. Hotels

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Albergo Morlacchi Via L. Tiberi 2 T075.572.0319, Wwww.hotelmorlacchi.it. This centrally located, family-run hotel has comfortable rooms with parquet ﬂoors and an eclectic collection of art on the walls. Rooms vary in size, so ask to see a few. Breakfast is extra. 2 Appartamento il Bufalo Via del Bufalo T 349.661.3462, W www.tourinumbria.org. With vaulted ceilings, tasteful furnishings and luxuries such as CD and DVD players, not to mention a very central location, this two-bedroom apartment is great value but is generally let for at least three nights, for around €150 per night total per night. 2 Brufani Palace Piazza Italia 12 T075.573.2541, Wwww.brufanipalace.com. Perugia’s smartest and

most luxurious option, with an equally elegant restaurant, is right in the centre of town by Piazza Italia. 7 Fortuna Via Bonazzi 19 T075.572.2845, W www.umbriahotels.com. A central three-star in a historic fourteenth-century palazzo with frescoed ceilings in some rooms and a roof garden with good views of the old city. 3 Locanda della Posta Corso Vannucci 97 T075.572.8925, Wwww.locandadellaposta.com. Perugia’s ﬁrst choice if you want an upmarket treat: it’s not as slick as the Brufani but just as central and in a historic building where the likes of Goethe and Hans Christian Andersen once stayed. 5 Primavera Minihotel Via Vincioli 8 T075.572.1657, Wwww.primaveramini hotel.it. In a tranquil alley, this hotel has immaculate

en-suite rooms, and the friendly staff are tirelessly helpful. 2

hostel is perfectly situated in a historic palazzo just 2min from the Duomo. It has frescoed common areas and a panoramic terrace that some of the rooms share. There are 100 beds in four-, six- and eight-bed dorms. Check-in 3.30pm–midnight; curfew 3.30am. Closed mid-Dec to mid-Jan. Dorm beds €15, plus €2 sheet rental.

Hostels and campsite Centro Internazionale di Accoglienza per la Gioventù Via Bontempi 13 T075.572.2880, W www.ostello.perugia.it. The town’s original

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Ostello per la Gioventù Maria Luisa Spagnoli Via Cortonese 4, Località Pian di Massiano T075.501.1366, Wwww.umbriahostels.org. Perugia’s newer hostel is down near the main station with its own restaurant. It has 186 beds in 33 fourand six-bed dorms. €16, with breakfast; single rooms €22; open 7am to midnight year round.

Paradis d’Été Via del Mercato 29/H, Strada Fontana T075.517.3121, Wwww.wel.it/cparadis. A three-star, top-of-the-range campsite 5km out of town at Località Colle della Trinità. Take the Sulga bus marked “Colle della Trinità” from Piazza Italia or #9 bus from the station. There are also more rural sites on Lago Trasimeno (see p.537).

The Town Once you’re in Piazza Italia orientation is straightforward. The town hinges around a single street, the Corso Vannucci, one of Italy’s greatest people-watching streets, packed from dawn through to the early hours with a parade of tourists and trendsetters. Corso Vannucci to Piazza IV Novembre UM BRI A

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The escalators up from the bus station emerge in Piazza Italia. Just south of here, the small but well-kept Giardini Carducci, full of smooching couples, is the best place to appreciate why Henry James called Perugia the “little city of the inﬁnite views”. When the usual cloak of haze lifts on crisp winter mornings, half of Umbria is laid out before you, with the mountains of Tuscany in the distance. An antiques fair takes place in the gardens and piazza on the last weekend of every month. Named after the city’s most celebrated artist, Pietro Vannucci, better known simply as Perugino, the Corso heads north from here, lined with busting pavement cafés. At its far end, the big and austere Piazza IV Novembre (once a Roman reservoir) is backed by the plain-faced Duomo (daily 7.30am–12.30pm & 4–7pm). While its Baroque interior is big on size, it’s pretty small on works of art and comes as a disappointment after the ﬁfteenth-century facade. As a change from pieces of the True Cross, the chapel almost immediately on your right as you enter, behind a heavy metal grille, contains the Virgin’s “wedding ring”, an unwieldy 2cm-diameter piece of agate that apparently changes colour according to the character of the person wearing it. The Perugians keep it locked up in ﬁfteen boxes ﬁtted into one another like Russian dolls, each opened with a key held by a different person. It’s brought out for general public ediﬁcation once a year on July 30. In one of the transepts there’s an urn holding the ashes of Pope Martin IV, who died in the city after eating too many eels. Urban IV’s remains are here too – he was reputedly poisoned with aquetta, an imaginative brew made by rubbing white arsenic into pork fat and distilling the unpleasantness that oozes out. Outside in the piazza (which is the town’s main hangout), the centrepiece is the Fontana Maggiore, designed by Fra’ Bevignate, a monk, and sculpted by the fatherand-son team, Nicola and Giovanni Pisano. Sculptures and bas-reliefs – depicting episodes from the Old Testament, classical myth, Aesop’s fables and the twelve months of the year – on the two polygonal basins were part of a carefully conceived decorative scheme designed to illustrate the city’s glory and achievements. By some

The Perugia Città Museo Card

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A museum pass is available for all the major museums and sights in Perugia, including all those mentioned in this chapter. The Perugia Città Museo Card (€10 for 48hr; Wwww.perugiacittamuseo.it) is valid for ﬁve sights and includes admission for one adult and one child under the age of 18. Audio and video guides are supplied free of charge at the sights, plus there are discounts at several restaurants in town. Buy the card at participating sights.

Bloodlust in medieval Perugia Medieval Perugia was evidently a hell of a place to be. “The most warlike of the people of Italy”, wrote the historian Sismondi, “who always preferred Mars to the Muse.” Male citizens played a game (and this was for pleasure) in which two teams, thickly padded in clothes stuffed with deer hair and wearing beaked helmets, stoned each other mercilessly until the majority of the other side were dead or wounded. Children were encouraged to join in for the ﬁrst two hours to promote “application and aggression”. In 1265 Perugia was also the birthplace of the Flagellants, who had half of Europe whipping itself into a frenzy before the movement was declared heretical. In addition to some hearty scourging they took to the streets on moonlit nights, groaning and wailing, dancing in white sheets, singing dirges and clattering human bones together, all as expiation for sin and the wrongs of the world. Then there were the infamous Baglioni, the medieval family who misruled the city for several generations, their spell-binding history – full of vendetta, incest and mass slaughter – the stuff of great medieval soap opera.

Just opposite the cathedral rises the gaunt mass of the Palazzo dei Priori, often – and rightly – described as one of the greatest public palaces in Italy. Sheer bulk aside, it’s certainly impressive – with rows of trefoil windows (from which convicted criminals were once thrown to their deaths), majestic Gothic doorway, and business-like Guelph crenellations – though the overall effect is rather forbidding; its real beauty derives from the harmony set up by the medieval buildings around it. The lawyers’ meeting hall, the Sala dei Notari (daily 9am–1pm & 3–7pm; closed Mon Oct–June; free), at the top of the fan-shaped steps, is noted for its frescoes portraying scenes from the Bible, Aesop’s fables and the coats of arms of medieval civic worthies: lots of colour, fancy ﬂags, swirls and no substance – but certainly worth a glance. The small Collegio della Mercanzia (March–Oct & 20 Dec–6 Jan Tues–Sat 9am–1pm & 2.30–5.30pm, Sun 9am–1pm; rest of year Tues, Thurs & Fri 8am–2pm, Wed & Sat 8am–4.30pm, Sun 9am–1pm; €1.50, or €5.50 with Collegio di Cambio) lies farther down the Corso side of the palace at Corso Vannucci 15, hidden behind an innocuous door. The seat of the Merchants’ Guild, it is covered entirely in intricate and beautiful ﬁfteenth-century panelling. A few doors down at Corso Vannucci 25, the impressive Collegio di Cambio (Mon–Sat 9am–12.30pm & 2.30–5.30pm, Sun 9am–1pm; Nov to mid-March closed Mon 2.30–5.30pm; €4.50, or €5.50, including Collegio della Mercanzia) was the town’s money exchange in medieval times. The superb frescoes on the walls were executed by Perugino at the height of his powers and are considered the artist’s masterpiece; in true Renaissance fashion, they attempt to fuse ancient and Christian culture. Up on the door-side wall there’s a famous but unremarkable self-portrait in which the artist looks like he had a bad lunch. Giannicola di Paolo frescoed the small chapel (1519) to the right of the Collegio, the last important Umbrian painter inﬂuenced by Perugino. The Galleria Nazionale dell’Umbria (Tues–Sun 8.30am–7.30pm, ticket office closes 6.30pm; €6.50) is on the upper ﬂoor of the palace complex (lift or stairs), with the entrance through its opulently carved doorway. One of central Italy’s best and most charming galleries, this takes you on a romp through the history of Umbrian painting, with masterpieces by Perugino, Pinturicchio and many others,

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The Palazzo dei Priori

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canny design work they never line up directly, encouraging you to walk round the fountain chasing a point of repose that never comes.

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plus one or two stunning Tuscan masterpieces (Duccio, Fra’ Angelico, Piero della Francesca) thrown in for good measure. The entrance is worth every cent if you’re the slightest bit interested in early and mid-Renaissance art. The Pozzo Etrusco and San Severo

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Just east of Piazza Danti behind the cathedral at Piazza Piccinino 1 lies the entrance to the Pozzo Etrusco (April & Aug daily 10am–1.30pm & 2.30–6pm; May–July, Sept & Oct Tues–Sun 10am–1.30pm & 2.30–6pm; rest of year Tues–Sun 11am–1.30pm & 2.30–5pm; €3, includes admission to San Severo & Museo delle Mura e delle Porte Urbiche), a massive and extraordinary well that does more than hint at the dazzling engineering and technical skills of its Etruscan builders. A few minutes’ walk farther east along Via del Sole brings you to the church of San Severo (same hours and ticket as Pozzo Etrusco) in Piazza Raffaello, known for its painting Holy Trinity and Saints by Raphael, who spent some ﬁve formative years in Umbria. Today it’s the only painting by him still left in the region – Napoleon carted many of the artist’s works off to France – except for a painted banner in the art gallery in Città di Castello (see p.539). Perugino, his erstwhile teacher, completed the lower third of the painting, Six Saints, in 1521 after Raphael’s death.

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Via dei Priori and around

The best streets to wander around for a feel of the old city are to the east and west of the Duomo, Via dei Priori being the most characteristic. Just behind the Palazzo dei Priori in Via della Gabbia there once hung a large iron cage used to imprison thieves and sometimes even clergy. You can still make out long spikes on some of the lower walls, used as hooks for the heads of executed criminals. Further down, Via dei Priori passes the rarely open Madonna della Luce on the north side after the medieval Torre degli Scirri, little more than a chapel dominated by an impressive altarpiece by G.B. Caporali, a follower of Perugino. The church takes its name from the story that in 1513 a young barber swore so profusely on losing at cards that a Madonna in a wayside shrine closed her eyes in horror and kept them closed for four days. The miracle prompted celebrations, processions and the building of a new church. Some way beyond, as the street bears right, is a nice patch of grass perfectly placed for relaxing with the crowd from the art school next door or for admiring Agostino di Duccio’s colourful Oratorio di San Bernardino, whose richly embellished facade (1461) is far and away the best piece of sculpture in the city. To the north is what’s left of San Francesco, once a colossal church, now ruined by centuries of earthquakes, but with a curiously jumbled and striking facade still just about standing. The university and north

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The rather uninspiring Via A. Pascoli passes beneath the much-photographed Acquedotto (a raised walkway from the old centre to the north of the city – well worth taking for the views) and past the ugly university buildings, to the Università Italiana per Stranieri (T 075.57.461, W www.unistrapg.it) in Piazza Fortebraccio. One of Italy’s most prestigious centres of learning for foreigners, the university made international headlines in 2007 when 21-year-old British student Meredith Kercher was murdered by her American housemate Amanda Knox, and Knox’s boyfriend, Raffaele Sollecito. The pair are now serving life sentences in a maximum-security prison just outside the city. The big patched-up gateway on one side of the piazza is the Arco di Augusto, its lowest section one of the few remaining monuments of Etruscan Perugia. The Romans added the upper remnant when they captured the city in 40 BC. About

The rest of Perugia’s highlights are on the other side of town, grouped together on Corso Cavour, a busy and dustily unpleasant road in the summer. Below Piazza Italia stands the strange octagonal, rarely open, church of Sant’Ercolano – built on the site where the head of Perugia’s ﬁrst bishop miraculously reattached itself to his body after the Goths chopped it off. It’s worth taking a short walk past here to look into the Porta Marzia, where a subterranean road of medieval houses, Via Baglioni Sotterranea, leads under the ruins of the Rocca Paolina, a onceenormous papal fortress destroyed by the Perugians at Uniﬁcation. This amazing underground labyrinth can also be accessed from the escalators to the bus station at Piazza dei Partigiani from the west side of Piazza Italia.

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Corso Cavour

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a minute’s walk north on Corso Garibaldi is Sant’Agostino (daily 9am–1pm & 4–7pm), once Romanesque, now botched Baroque and ﬁlled with wistful signs explaining what paintings used to hang in the church before they were spirited to France by light-ﬁngered Napoleonic troops. The church, however, is not entirely ruined: there’s a beautiful choir (probably based on a drawing by Perugino) and a couple of patches of fresco on the left-hand (north) wall, giving a tantalizing idea of what the place must once have been. Next door to the north side is the ﬁfteenth-century Oratorio di Sant’Agostino (visits by advance booking only; T 075.572.4815), its ludicrously ornate ceiling looking as if it’s about to erupt in an explosion of gilt, stucco and chubby plaster cherubs. Fifteen minutes’ walk up the street is the ﬁfth-century church of Sant’Angelo (daily 9am–1pm & 3.30–6.30pm), situated in a tranquil spot (with a pretty little patch of grass and trees – perfect for picnics and siestas) and based on a circular pagan temple; the 24 columns are from the earlier building. Finally, at the northern end of Corso Garibaldi is the Museo delle Porte e delle Mura (April & Aug daily 10.30am–1.30pm & 3–6pm; May–July, Sept & Oct Tues–Sun 10.30am–1.30pm & 3–6pm; Nov–March Tues–Sun 11am–1pm & 3–5pm; same ticket as Pozzo Etrusco and San Severo – see p.534), a small museum which traces the development of the city through expansion of the city’s three sections of wall: Etruscan, Medieval and Renaissance.

San Domenico and the Museo Archeologico

Continuing on to Corso Cavour and heading south, you come to San Domenico (daily 7am–noon & 4–7pm), Umbria’s biggest church. It has a desolate and unﬁnished air from the outside, but it’s also appealing in a big and rather melancholy sort of way. The original Romanesque interior collapsed in the sixteenth century and the Baroque replacement is vast, cold and bare. Like Sant’Agostino, however, it’s full of hints as to how beautiful it must have been – nowhere more so than in the fourth chapel on the right, where a superb carved arch by Agostino di Duccio is spoilt only by a doll-like Madonna. In the east transept, to the right of the altar, is the tomb of Benedict XI (1324), another pope who died in Perugia, this time from eating poisoned ﬁgs. It’s an elegant and well-preserved piece by one of the period’s three leading sculptors: Pisano, Lorenzo Maitani or Arnolfo di Cambio, no one knows which. There’s also another good choir, together with some impressive stained-glass windows – the second biggest in Italy after those in Milan’s Duomo. Housed in the church’s cloisters is the Museo Archeologico Nazionale dell’Umbria (Mon 10am–7.30pm, Tues–Sun 8.30am–7.30pm; €4). Before being hammered by Augustus, Perugia was a big shot in the twelve-strong Etruscan federation of cities, which is why the city has one of the most extensive Etruscan collections around. The place is deﬁnitely worth a visit, even if the Etruscans normally leave you cold, for there’s far more here than the usual run of urns and

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funerary monuments. Particuarly compelling are the Carri Etruschi di Castel San Marino, some exquisite sixth-century bronze chariots; a witty collection of eye-opening artefacts devoted to fashion and beauty in the Etruscan era; and the bewildering Bellucci Collection. The last is a private hoard of charms and amulets through the ages: everything from the obvious – lucky horseshoes – to strange and often sinister charms such as snake skins and dried animals. San Pietro

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Further down Corso Cavour, advertised by a rocket-shaped bell tower, is the tenth-century basilica of San Pietro (daily 8am–12.30pm & 3–6pm), the most idiosyncratic of all the town’s churches. Tangled up in a group of buildings belonging to the university’s agriculture department, the none-too-obvious entrance is through a frescoed doorway in the far left-hand corner of the ﬁrst courtyard off the road. Few churches can be so sumptuously decorated: every inch of available space is covered in gilt, paint or marble, though a guiding sense of taste seems to have prevailed, and in the candle-lit gloom it actually feels like the sacred place it’s meant to be. All the woodwork is extraordinary; the choir has been called the best in Italy, and there is a host of works by Perugino, Fiorenzo di Lorenzo and others.

Eating and drinking Perugia’s student population ensures that there is a plethora of reasonably priced places to eat out, from the many snack bars around the centre of town to simple trattorias serving traditional Umbrian cuisine. Local dishes feature wild mushrooms, truffles and game often succulently combined with home-made egg pasta. The city’s liveliest cafés are clustered on Corso Vannucci. Cafés

Pizzerias and restaurants

Caffè di Perugia Via Mazzini 10 T 075.573.1863. A pleasantly smart setting with superb vaulted ceiling from the thirteenth century, as well as lots of outdoor tables. All the café staples, plus a pricey restaurant with secondi at around €16, a pizzeria-grill and a wine bar, the last a good early-evening retreat. Daily 12.30–3pm & 7.30–11.30pm. Caffè Morlacchi Piazza Morlacchi 8 T 075.572.1760. Smart but student-oriented bar with occasional live music. Mon–Wed 7.30am–1am, Thurs & Fri 7.30am–2am, Sat 8.30am–2am, Sun 4–10pm. Gelateria Gambrinus Via Bonazzi 3. Queues from this ice-cream parlour off the Corso often stretch onto the nearby Piazza della Repubblica, especially at the height of the Sunday passeggiata. A great choice of ﬂavours and very generous scoops. Daily: April–Oct 11am–1am, Nov–March 11am–8pm; closed Jan. Pasticceria Sandri Corso Vannucci 32. Atmospheric, old-world café with a wonderful frescoed ceiling in a perfect position on the main street near the Palazzo dei Priori – a high spot for the sweet-toothed. Tues–Sun 8am–10pm.

Al Mangiar Bene Via della Luna 21 T075.573.1047. Tucked away down a ﬂight of steps off Corso Vannucci, this lovely, brick-vaulted space is a rare ﬁnd: all-organic, with produce sourced from local farms. It’s refreshingly laidback too: you can choose which pasta to pair with which sauce – a no-no in many fancier places. A full and very tasty meal with wine will set you back around €35. Mon–Sat 12.30–2.45pm & 7.30–11.45pm. Altro Mondo Via Caporali 11 T 075.572.6157. Well-priced home cooking in a brick-vaulted, airy space. Mains (around €10) include straccetti di vitello (veal strips) with rocket. Mon–Sat 12.30–2.30pm & 7.30–11pm. Da Cesarino Piazza IV Novembre 4–5 T075.572.8974. A great central restaurant and a Perugia tradition, with meals from around €28. Booking advised. Mon, Tues & Fri–Sun 12.30–3pm & 7.30–11pm, Thurs 7.30–11pm. Dal mi Cocco Corso Garibaldi 12 T075.573.2511. Good-value traditional dishes with a variety of set menus from €13. It’s always busy, so book in advance. Tues–Sun 1–3pm & 8.30–10.30pm. Falchetto Via Bartolo 20, just off Piazza Danti. A reliably good and easy-going place with a medieval

for Perugia, but worth it for the huge terrace with sweeping views over the surrounding countryside. Tues–Sun 12.30–3pm & 7.30–10.30pm.

Bars and clubs

Lago Trasimeno The most tempting option around Perugia – whose surroundings are generally pretty bleak – is LAGO TRASIMENO, an ideal spot to hole up in for a few days, and particularly recommended if you want to get in some swimming, windsurﬁng or sailing. The lake is about 30km from Perugia and is well served by both train and bus. It’s the biggest inland stretch of water in mainland Italy, and, though you wouldn’t think so to look at it, never deeper than 7m – hence bath-like warm water in summer. A winning combination of tree-covered hills to the north, Umbria’s subtle light, and placid lapping water produces some magical moments, but on overcast

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Il Birraio Via delle Prome 18. There’s no mistaking the beer bias of this odd, modern place, the entrance to which is lined with the copper tanks and vats of an in-house microbrewery. Tues–Sun 5pm–2am. Lunabar Ferrari Via Scura 6. Just off Corso Vannucci, this stylish bar attracts an equally stylish crowd. There’s moody lighting, a lively aperitivo hour (6–9pm), with drinks accompanied by good free snacks, and even a smoking room – a rarity in Italian bars. DJs Tues & Sat. Tues–Sun 7am–2am, daily in Aug. Velvet Fashion Café Viale Roma 20 T075.572.1321, Wwww.velvetfashioncafe.com. Perugia’s most central club. Offers smart dining, drinking and occasional live music; closed Mon–Wed in winter and all summer.

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interior and traditional dishes such as wild boar and deer stew with polenta (€12.50). Tues–Sun 12.30–3pm & 7.30–11pm. Osteria del Ghiottone Via Caporali 12 T 075.572.7788. This tiny, no-frills osteria, dotted with antique odds and ends such as farm implements and a suitcase full of wine corks, makes an atmospheric place for a meal. The cuisine is rigorously Umbrian, using ancient recipes. Mains (€8–15) include wild boar stew with chicory, and dishes are prepared with olive oil made in the owner’s farm near Trevi. Wed–Mon noon–3pm & 7–10.30pm. Pizzeria Mediterranea Piazza Piccinino 11 T 075.572.1322. Simple and tasteful pizzeria with small wood-ﬁred oven and a couple of brickvaulted rooms a few steps beyond the entrance to the Pozzo Etrusco. It makes 28 varieties, including the caloriﬁc Nutella pizza, if you have room for dessert. Daily 12.30–2.30pm & 7.30–11pm. Ristorante del Sole Via della Rupe 1 T 075.573.5031. Slightly above average prices

On the trail of Hannibal Somewhere along the lake shore towards the rambling village of Tuoro, probably at Sanguineto (“the Place of Blood”) or Ossaia (“the Place of Bones”), is the spot where the Romans suffered their famous clobbering at the hands of Hannibal in 217 BC. Hannibal was headed for Rome, having just crossed the Alps, when he was met by a Roman force under the Consul Flaminius. Things might have gone better for Flaminius if he’d heeded the omens that piled up on the morning of battle. First he fell off his horse, next the legionary standards had to be dug out of the mud, then – and this really should have raised suspicions – the sacred chickens refused their breakfast. Poultry accompanied all Roman armies and, by some means presumably known to the legionnaire in charge of chickens, communicated the will of the gods to waiting commanders in the ﬁeld. Hannibal lured Flaminius into a masterful ambush, with the only escape a muddy retreat into the lake. Sixteen thousand Romans, including the hapless commander, were killed. A hard-to-ﬁnd drive and walkway have been laid out, starting and ﬁnishing just west of Tuoro on the road to Cortona, that take in salient features of the old battleﬁeld; the information ofﬁce on the lake shore can arrange guided tours.

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and squally days the mood can turn melancholy. Not all the reed-lined shore is uniformly pretty either; steer clear of the northern coast and head for the stretches south of Magione and Castiglione if you’re after relative peace and quiet. Strung out along the northern shore, PASSIGNANO, a newish town with a medieval heart, is the lake’s most accessible point, served by six daily buses and hourly trains from Perugia and Terontola. In summer it can get a bit clogged with traffic, but in the evenings, the joint is jumping, with bars, discos and ﬁsh restaurants aplenty. One boat daily (ten daily from San Feliciano, on the lake’s eastern shore) runs from here to the mostly uninhabited island of Isola Polvese, where there’s an excellent, eco-efficient HI hostel, Fattoria Il Poggio, with lovely views of the lake from its rooms and dorms (T 075.965.9550, W www.fattoriaisolapolvese .com; dorms €20, doubles 1 ).

Castiglione del Lago

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CASTIGLIONE DEL LAGO is the most appealing town on the lake and cuts a ﬁne silhouette from other points around the shore, jutting out into the water on a fortiﬁed promontory. A friendly, unpretentious place, Castiglione has enough charm and action to hold anyone’s interest for a couple of days – longer if all you want to do is crash out on the (albeit modest) beach.

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Arrival, information and accommodation

Castiglione del Lago is easy to reach by slow train either from Chiusi (heading north) or Terontola if you’re coming from Arezzo or Perugia. There are also nine buses daily from Perugia. The tourist office is at no. 10 in the main Piazza Mazzini (April–Sept Mon–Sat 8.30am–1pm & 3.30–7pm, Sun 9am–1pm & 4–7pm; Oct– March Mon–Fri 8.30am–1pm & 3.30–7pm, Sat 9am–1pm; T 075.965.2484 or 075.965.2738, W www.lagotrasimeno.net), with a lot of reasonable but generally characterless rooms on its books and apartments to rent weekly, usually a cheaper option if you can get a party together. Hotels Aganoor Via Vittorio Emanuele 91 T 075.953.837, W www.hotelaganoor.it. Attached to La Cantina restaurant (see opposite), this 8-room B&B has comfortable, traditionally styled rooms, as well as a rooftop solarium with lovely views. Ask for one of the four rooms with lake views. Half-board available for €55/person. 2 La Torre Via Vittorio Emanuele 50 T075.951.666, W www.latorretrasimeno.com. A friendly, family-run hotel right on the main street with comfortable, if rather dated, rooms. It also has a two-person apartment, Bellavista, across the street, newly

redecorated with its own garden and lake views, for €100 a night. 2 Miralago Piazza Mazzini 6 T 075.951.157 or 075.953.063, Wwww.hotelmiralago.com. An atmospheric choice, right in the main square, with views of the lake behind. 2

Campsite Badiaccia Via Trasimeno I 91, Località Badiaccia T075.965.9097, W www.badiaccia.com. Most of the campsites are off the main road some way north or south of the town. This is the most highly rated, with excellent and very well maintained facilities, plus a large sandy beach.

Activities

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There are plenty of activities on offer, including windsurﬁng (contact Club Velico Castiglionese at T 075.953.035, W www.cvcastiglionese.it), canoeing, waterskiing and horseriding (ask at the tourist office for recommended operators). You can rent bikes at Cicli Valentini (Via Firenze 68/B; Mon–Sat 9am–1pm & 4–8pm; W www.ciclivalentini.it). The best of the little beaches is at the public lido on the southern side of the promontory, with pedaloes for hire and boat trips, including regular excursions to Isola Maggiore (30min; €6.80 return),

one of the lake’s three islands, a fun ride if you don’t mind the summer crowds. There’s a pretty walk round the edge of the island, and one good, popular hotel, the three-star Da Sauro, Via Guglielmi 1 (T 075.826.168, W www.dasauro.it; 2 ), which also doubles as a ﬁne restaurant. Eating and drinking

Aside from the summer-only restaurants on the promenade, the place to eat game, ﬁsh fresh from the lake and other dishes is L’Acquario, Via Vittorio Emanuele II 69 (T 075.965.2432; closed dinner Wed, also Tues in winter) on the old town’s single main street (mains €9–18). Alternatively, Osteria Vinolento, Via Vittorio Emanuele 112 (T 339.502.217; closed Mon), is a good little wine bar and osteria, while the long-established La Cantina in the same street at no. 93 (T 075.965.2463; closed Mon Oct–May), has a lovely terrace.

| The Upper Tiber • Città di Castello

Rome’s river, the Tiber, actually spends most of its short life in Umbria, rising in the Alpe della Luna above Sansepolcro. In its moderately pretty but rather unexciting upper reaches north of Perugia – largely given over to sheep and ﬁelds of tobacco – you’re faced with the familiar problem that everything you don’t want to see is easily accessible and everything you do is out of reach without your own transport. The Ferrovia Centrale Umbra rail line and the fast N3 to Sansepolcro are perfect for Città di Castello, the area’s only town of note, after which you’ll probably want to strike east on the N257 across the mountains to Urbino (70km). The best reason to follow the Tiber is to stay on the trail of Piero della Francesca’s mysterious and unsettling masterpieces at Sansepolcro, Arezzo and Monterchi. The region’s best aspect, in fact, is not the valley but the desolate countryside on either side, areas that, like the Valnerina in the east, give the lie to the notion of Umbria as some sort of pastoral idyll. With few roads and fewer villages, but thousands of hectares of natural woodland and abandoned pasture, it teems with wildlife, including many rare species of birds, deer, wild boar and even wolves, now apparently pushing farther up the Italian peninsula every year. Pietralunga and Apecchio to the north are the best exploring bases.

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The Upper Tiber

Città di Castello CITTÀ DI CASTELLO is a charming and little-visited town, with a sedate and ordered medieval centre that’s well worth a few hours. It’s also increasingly the focus for visitors staying in the many rented villas and farmhouses in hills to the east and west. In late August and early September the town becomes busier than usual during its renowned Festival of Chamber Music (T 075.852.2823, W www.festivalnazioni.com), dedicated to a different country each year. Once an important Roman centre – the grid-iron of streets is virtually the only legacy – today the plain-bound site preserves just a handful of fairly mediocre medieval monuments. The town’s main attractions are a trio of museums and an art gallery, along with some quiet, pleasant medieval streets. Arrival, information and accommodation

The train station is east of the centro storico, outside the old walls, while buses arrive in Piazza Garibaldi, inside the walls on the eastern side of town. There’s a large, free car park just outside the walls to the west of town. Città di Castello’s tourist office in the Logge Bufalini just off Piazza Matteotti (Mon–Fri 9am–1pm

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& 3.30–6.30pm, Sat 9.30am–12.30pm & 3.30–6.30pm, Sun 9.30am–12.30pm; T 075.855.4922) deals with the whole Upper Tiber region. Piazza Matteotti is also the site of a vintage market on the third Sunday of the month (9am–8pm), and a produce market on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays. Among the hotels, top of the range is the central four-star Tiferno, Piazza Raffaello Sanzio 13 (T 075.855.0331, W www.hoteltiferno.it; 4), with large, traditionally styled rooms with Burri prints in the rooms and even some originals in the common areas. Right next to the Museo del Duomo, A Residenza Antica Canonica, Via San Florido 23 (T 075.852.3298, W www.umbriaholidays.net; 2 ), holds recently restored apartments in a Renaissance palazzo, tastefully furnished and with wood beams and frescoes in some rooms. There’s also a pleasant, rural campsite, the Montesca (T 075.855.8566, W www.lamontesca.it; May–Sept), at La Montesca, 1km west of town on the minor road to Monte San Marina. The Town UM BRI A

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Foremost among the town’s museums is the Pinacoteca at the southern edge of town at Via della Cannoniera 22 (Tues–Sun: April–Oct 10am–1pm & 2.30–6.30pm; Nov–March 10am–1pm & 3–6pm; €6), one of the region’s best art galleries after Perugia’s. The collection makes up in quality what it lacks in quantity, taking in works by Raphael, Signorelli, Ghirlandaio and Lorenzetti, plus a wondrous Maestà by the anonymous fourteenth-century Maestro di Città di Castello. There are also several sculptures, the most notable by Ghiberti, and a glittering reliquary of Florentine origin, dating from 1420. The banal, reworked Duomo in Piazza Gabriotti warrants a call for its smart twelve-room museum, the Museo del Duomo, entered to the right of the church (Tues–Sun 10am–1pm & 3–6pm; €6). It contains a completely unexpected collection of big-name paintings, including major works by Rosso Fiorentino, Giulio Romano and Pinturicchio. Even better is the Treasure of Canoscio, a precious hoard of sixth-century silver chalices dug up in 1932. Signposted from the Duomo, the recently restored Campanile Cilindrico (Tues–Sun 10am–1pm & 3–6pm, open daily in Aug; €4) is a round bell-tower that’s worth the climb for the ﬁne views over the rooftops and surrounding countryside. The third of the town’s triumvirate of museums is the fascinating Collezione Tessile di Tela Umbra, just off the main square on Piazza A. Costa (Mon 9am–noon, Tues–Sun 10am–1pm & 3.30–6.30pm; €3.50). The museum traces the history of textiles in the Upper Tiber valley, though in many ways the more interesting part of the concern is the original workshop, which continues to employ local women and still – almost uniquely in Italy – uses traditional hand-worked looms (workshop Mon–Fri 8am–1pm & 3.30–6.30pm, Sat & Sun 10.30am–1pm & 3.30–6.30pm). Just north of the Collezione Tessile is the Palazzo Albizzini (Tues–Sat 9.30am–12.30pm & 2.30–6.30pm, Sun 10.30am–12.30pm & 3–7pm; closes an hour earlier in winter; €6, or joint ticket with the Ex Seccatoi €10) at Via degli Albizzini 1, off Piazza Garibaldi. It’s home to the Collezione Burri, an extensive collection of large sculptural works by local-born artist Alberto Burri, one of the most signiﬁcant ﬁgures of twentieth-century Italian art. If you have come to the town from the south you’ll probably have seen the Ex Seccatoi del Tobacco, distinctive and colossal buildings on Via Pierucci that were once used to dry tobacco: today they house some of Burri’s larger works (same ticket and hours, but closed Nov–March). A couple of kilometres south, in the hamlet of GARAVELLE (ﬁve daily buses from Piazza Garibaldi) is one of Umbria’s best folk museums, the Centro delle Tradizioni Popolari (Tues–Sun: April–Oct 8.30am–12.30pm & 3–7pm; Nov–March 8.30am–12.30pm & 2–6pm; €5). It’s located in an eighteenth-century farmhouse, preserved with all the accoutrements

of daily life – pots, pans, furniture and so forth, plus a range of exhibits covering rural activities such as wine making and weaving. Eating and drinking

Best of several good restaurants is A Lea, a very reasonably priced locals’ favourite at Via San Florido 38/A (T 075.852.1678; closed Mon), a short way south of the cathedral, with mains from €5 and a good selection of tasty primi from €4.50. Alternatively, Amici Miei, downstairs in a medieval cellar at Via del Monte 2 (T 075.855.9904; closed Mon), off Corso Garibaldi just south of the main Piazza Matteotti, has delicious home-made pasta; you should be able to get four courses, excluding wine, for under €30. The equally good Il Cacciatore, Via della Braccina 10 (T 075.852.0882; closed Tues; lunch only, except Sat in winter), is a traditionally styled osteria with a daily changing menu of simple regional dishes (secondi from €6).

| Gubbio

GUBBIO is the most thoroughly medieval of the Umbrian towns, an immediately likeable place that’s hung on to its charm despite an ever-increasing inﬂux of visitors. The streets are picture-book pretty, with houses of rosy-pink stone and seas of orange-tiled roofs; the setting is equally gorgeous with the forest-clad mountains of the Apennines rearing up behind. A broad and largely unspoilt plain stretches out in front of the town, and the whole ensemble – especially on grey, windswept days – maintains Gubbio’s tough, mountain-outpost atmosphere. A powerful medieval Comune, and always important as the gateway to Ravenna and the Adriatic (it was a key point on the Roman Via Flaminia), these days it’s a town apart, not really part of Umbria, Tuscany or Le Marche – one reason it’s been spared the onslaught of modernity.

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Arrival and accommodation Gubbio is easiest approached by bus from Perugia on the mostly pretty crosscountry SS298 road. The nearest train station is at Fossato di Vico, 19km south on the Rome–Foligno–Ancona line; there are twelve connecting shuttle buses to Gubbio from Monday to Saturday, ﬁve on Sundays. The tourist office is at Via della Repubblica 15 (March–Oct Mon–Fri 8.30am–1.45pm & 3.30–6.30pm, Sat 9am–1pm & 3–6.30pm, Sun 9.30am–1pm & 3–6pm; Oct–March Mon–Fri 8.30am–1.45pm & 3–6pm, Sat 9am–1pm & 3–6pm, Sun 9.30am–1pm & 3–6pm; closed Sun afternoon mid-Jan to Feb; T 075.922.0693). You shouldn’t have any problem staying in Gubbio, though the place does get busy, and many of the hotels and restaurants are rather smart affairs aimed at wellheeled Italians. Check for hotels, B&Bs and cheap rooms in private houses with the tourist office. Hotels Albergo dei Consoli Via dei Consoli 59 T075.922.0639, Wwww.urbaniweb.com. Formerly a rather humble hotel that has been transformed into a four-star; has the advantage of a great position just a few steps down the hill from the Palazzo dei Consoli. Low-season rates can dip as low as €90. 4 Bosone Via XX Settembre 22 T075.922.0688, W www.mencarelligroup.com. A long-established

and traditional four-star hotel in a medieval palace with frescoed ceilings and lots of antiques. There’s a good restaurant garden, too. 4 Gattapone Via G. Ansidei 6 T 075.927.2489, Wwww.hotelgattapone.net. The best-priced of the town’s three-star options with a peaceful garden and a central setting, but beware the bells of the nearby church if you’re a light sleeper. 3

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Grotta dell’Angelo Via Gioia 47 T 075.927.1747, W www.grottadellangelo.it. A reliable two-star option in a peaceful side-street; there’s also an excellent and moderately priced restaurant. 1 Relais Ducale T 075.922.0157, W www .relaisducale.com. A classy, intimate four-star just below the cathedral and entered from one of two

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tiny alleys – Via Ducale or Via Galleotti (signed off the east side of Piazza Grande). 5 Residenza Le Logge Via Piccardi 7–9 T075.927.7574. Pleasant wood-beamed rooms give this residenza a homely feel, plus there’s a pretty garden. 2

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The Town Buses arrive in the Piazza dei Quaranta Martiri at the foot of town, named in memory of forty citizens shot by the Germans in 1944, a reprisal for partisan attacks in the surrounding hills. It’s a ten-minute walk uphill from here to the central Piazza Grande and Gubbio’s main sights. Piazza Grande

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| Gubbio

Centre-stage is the immense and austere fourteenth-century Palazzo dei Consoli, whose crenellated outline and 98-metre campanile immediately grab your attention. Probably designed by Matteo Gattapone, who was also responsible for Spoleto’s Ponte delle Torri, the palace took a couple of hundred years to build and required the levelling of vast tracts of the medieval town, mainly to accommodate the huge and windswept Piazza Grande. Inside the palazzo, the Museo Archeologico (daily: April–Oct 10am–1pm & 3–6pm; Nov–March 10am–1pm & 2–5pm; €5) houses a typical miscellany, unremarkable except for the famous Eugubine Tablets, Umbria’s most important archeological ﬁnd. Discovered in 1444 by an illiterate shepherd, later conned into swapping his priceless treasure-trove for a worthless piece of land, the seven bronze tablets are more or less the only extant record of the ancient Umbrian language, a vernacular tongue without written characters. The bastardized Etruscan and Latin of their religious texts were aimed at producing a phonetic translation of the dialect using the main languages of the day. Gubbio was close to the shrine of the so-called Apennine Jove, a major pagan deity visited by pilgrims from all over Italy, so the tablets were probably the work of Roman and Etruscan priests taking advantage of the established order to impose their religious cults in a region where their languages weren’t understood. Most importantly, they suggest Romans, Etruscans and Umbrians achieved some sort of coexistence, refuting a long-held belief that succeeding civilizations wiped one another out. Admission to the museum also gets you into the Pinacoteca at the top of the palace, worth a look for works by the Gubbian School – one of central Italy’s earliest, and a collection of ponderous fourteenth-century furniture. The lesser Palazzo Pretorio opposite was built to the same plan as the Palazzo dei Consoli. Deliberately dominating and humbling, it was what medieval civic pride was all about, an attempt to express power and supremacy in bricks and mortar. Behind a plain square facade (there’s a small hole top-right where criminals were hung in a cage called la gogna – from vergogna or “shame”) is a cavernous baronial hall, the Salone dell’Arengo, where council officials and leading citizens met to discuss business. The word “harangue” derives from arengo, suggesting proceedings frequently boiled over. The Duomo and Palazzo Ducale

To the north of the Piazza Grande lurks a not very inspiring thirteenth-century Duomo (daily 9.30am–5pm; closes earlier in winter), partly redeemed by the odd fresco, twelfth-century stained glass, and some arches gracefully curved apparently to emulate the meeting of hands in prayer. There are also a pair of carved organ lofts that for once don’t look as if they’d be more at home in a fairground. The adjoining Museo Diocesano (daily: April–Oct 9.30am–5.30pm; Nov–March 9am–5pm; €4), to the right as you face the facade at the corner of Via Federico da Montefeltro, is well worth a few minutes, mainly for a ﬂorid Flemish cope, presented to the cathedral by Pope Marcellus II, who was born in Gubbio. The plain-faced Gothic cathedral is overshadowed by the Palazzo Ducale in Via Federico da Montefeltro opposite (Tues–Sun 8.30am–7.30pm, ticket office closes 30min earlier; €5), built over an earlier Lombard palace by the Dukes of Montefeltro as a scaled-down copy of their more famous palace in Urbino. The courtyard is

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particularly attractive, but the interior, stripped of most of its original furniture and other trappings, is a triﬂe dull, despite some ﬁne views from the windows and the harmonious scale of the rooms. Via dei Consoli

There are dozens of picturesque odds and ends around the streets, which are as wonderfully explorable as any in the region. The Bargello, the medieval police station, in Via dei Consoli – the main medieval street (and home to most of the ceramic shops) – is worth tracking down and gives you the chance to survey the adjacent Fontana dei Matti (the “fountain of the mad”), undistinguished but for the tradition that anyone walking round it three times will wind up mad. The Basilica di Sant’Ubaldo and around

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| Gubbio

On the hillside above the town stands the Basilica di Sant’Ubaldo (daily 8am–7pm), which has some great views (even better ones if you climb up to the Rocca). There’s not much to see in the basilica itself, except the body of the town’s patron saint, St Ubaldo, missing three ﬁngers – they were hacked off by his manservant as a religious keepsake. You can’t miss the big wooden pillars (ceri) featured in Gubbio’s annual Corsa dei Ceri (see box below). There are several ways up to the basilica, one being via the steep track that strikes off from behind the Duomo. However, it’s quicker and far more fun – unless you have no head for heights – to take the cable car (funivia; March daily 10am–1.15pm & 2.30–5.30pm, Sun till 6pm; April & May 10am–1.15pm & 2.30–6.30pm, Sun till 7pm; June daily 9.30am–1.15pm & 2.30–7pm, Sun 9am–7.30pm; July to mid-Sept daily 9am–8pm; mid-Sept to end Sept daily 9.30am–1.15pm & 2.30–7pm, Sun 9am–7.30pm; Oct daily 10am–1.15pm & 2.30–6pm; Nov–Feb Thurs–Tues 10am–1.15pm & 2.30–5pm; return €5) from Porta Romana, over on the eastern side of town; you jump on small two-person cradles, which then dangle precariously over the woods and crags below as you shudder slowly upwards. From the top there’s a good view of the ﬁrst-century-BC Roman theatre on the outskirts of town (daily: April–Sept 10am–7pm; Oct–March 8.30am–5.30pm; €3), which hosts events during the summer months; ask at the tourist office for details. Near the cable-car exit at the bottom of the hill is the small Museo della Ceramica at Via Dante 24 (daily 9am–1pm & 3.30–7.30pm; free), which holds a collection of glazed ceramics from the sixteenth to the twentieth centuries.

Eating and entertainment Gubbio boasts a good selection of restaurants, with some high-quality, if rather expensive, options close to the Palazzo dei Consoli. Cheaper places for snacks, sandwiches or pizza al taglio are found in the grid of streets to the south, and towards the northern end of Via dei Consoli.

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Little known outside Italy but second only to Siena’s Palio in terms of exuberance and bizarre pageantry, the Corsa dei Ceri (W www.ceri.it) takes place on May 15 every year. The rules and rigmarole of the 900-year-old ceremony are mind-boggling, but they boil down to three teams racing from Piazza della Signoria to the basilica, carrying the ceri (each representing a different saint) on wooden stretchers. By iron-clad tradition, the cero of St Ubaldo always wins, the other teams having to ensure they’re in the basilica before the doors are shut by the leaders. The main event starts at 6pm.

Gubbio’s doors of death Gubbio’s Porte della Morte, the “doors of death”, are as controversial as the ceri, as no one can quite agree on their origins. Almost unique to the town (there are a few others in Assisi and southern France), these are narrow, bricked-up doorways wedged into the facades of its medieval townhouses (with the best examples in Via dei Consoli). The party line is that they were used to carry a cofﬁn out of a house, and then, having been tainted with death, were sealed up out of superstitious fear. Nice theory, and very Italian, but judging by the constricted stairways behind the doors, their purpose was probably defensive – the main door could be barricaded, leaving the more easily defended passageway as the only entrance.

Bosone Via XX Settembre 22 T 075.922.0688. The restaurant of the Bosone hotel (see p.541) is open to non-patrons, and, thanks to its garden, is the nicest place to eat outdoors in the summer. Tasting menus from €18.50, excluding drinks. Thurs–Tues 11.30am–3pm & 6.30pm–midnight. Fabiani Piazza del Quaranta Martiri 26 T075.927.4639. Fine, friendly place, with several dining rooms set in part of the elegant Palazzo Fabiani; attractive terrace for summer alfresco dining. Good value (meals from around €30) given

the quality of the cooking. Trufﬂes are a speciality. Wed–Mon noon–3pm & 7–10.30pm. Grotta dell’Angelo Via Gioia 47 T 075.927.3438. Annexed to the Grotta dell’Angelo hotel (see p.542), offering very tasty and reasonably priced basic meals in a wonderful dining room. Wed–Mon 12.30–2pm & 7.30–9.30pm. Taverna del Lupo Via Ansidei 21 T075.927.4368. A smart and long-established place in a medieval setting, popular for its classic Umbrian dishes and excellent trufﬂe risotto. Tasting menus €19.50– 27.50, excluding drinks. Tues–Sun noon–3pm & 7–11pm, Aug & Sept open daily.

| Parco Regionale del Monte Cucco

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The town also has a lively calendar of festivals. Apart from the spectacular Corsa dei Ceri (see box opposite), the Summer Festival sees performances of classical music concerts in atmospheric venues around town, with tickets at around €5 (mid-July to mid-Aug; ask at the tourist office for a programme). The Torneo dei Quartieri is a few days of medieval fun and games in mid-August, culminating in a costumed parade in Piazza Grande. The medieval theme continues with the Palio delle Balestre on the last Sunday in May, with a crossbow contest against neighbouring Sansepolcro.

Parco Regionale del Monte Cucco Some of Umbria’s best upland scenery is to be found in the mountains east and north of the earthquake-battered town of Gualdo Tadino on the border with Le Marche, much of it protected by the Parco Regionale del Monte Cucco. Where this area really scores is in its organized trails and backup for outdoor activities of every kind; if you want to don walking boots without too much fuss, this is one of the areas to do it – and access is easy, with buses from Gualdo to Valsorda and from Perugia, Gualdo, Gubbio and Assisi to Costacciaro. From mid-July to mid-September a full programme of events is organized, from hikes and mountain-bike tours to horseriding; call T 075.917.1046 or see W www.discover montecucco.it for information. The southernmost base for exploration of the park is the resort of VALSORDA (1000m), 8km northeast of Gualdo on the park’s southern extremity. You can tackle the straightforward trek (1hr) up Serra Santa (1421m) on a track of motorway proportions carved out by pilgrims over the years. From the summit you could drop into the spectacular Valle del Fonno gorge and follow it down

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to Gualdo. Paths follow the main ridge from Valsorda north and south, and it’s feasible to walk all the way to Nocera Umbra (6hr). Accommodation is thin on the ground, but there’s a campsite, the Valsorda (T 075.913.261; June–Sept). To get closer to the heart of the mountains head to the unpretentious and appealing COSTACCIARO, centre for all the park’s outdoor pursuits and access point for the Grotta di Monte Cucco, at 990m the ﬁfth-deepest cave system in the world. From April to November guided excursions of the caves are organized, leaving from Costacciaro (April–June & Sept–Nov Sat & Sun; July & Aug daily; book in advance on T 075.917.1046, E [email protected]; €20). Above, the huge, bare-sloped Monte Cucco (1566m) is the main playground for walkers. The best place for information is the Centro Escursionistico Naturalistico Speleologico, Via Galeazzi 5 (T 075.917.0400 for details of tours; W www.cens.it). There are several places to stay in and around Costacciaro, the best of them being the two-star Monte Cucco di Tobia in the Val di Ranco (T 075.917.7194, W www .albergomontecucco.it; 1 ; Easter to mid-Nov), a fabled mountaineers’ and cavers’ hangout (with an inexpensive restaurant). The nearest campsite is the Rio Verde (T 075.917.0138, W www.campingrioverde.it; end April–Sept) at Fornace, 3km north of Costacciaro. Freelance camping is prohibited within the parco regionale, but elsewhere you’ll have few problems ﬁnding a discreet pitch for a tent.

| Assisi

Assisi ASSISI is already too well known, thanks to St Francis, Italy’s premier saint and founder of the Franciscan order, which, with its various splinter groups, forms the world’s biggest religious order. Had the man not been born here in 1182 the town wouldn’t be thronged with visitors and pilgrims for ten months of the year, but then neither would it have the Basilica of St Francis, one of the greatest monuments to Cemetery & Car Park

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thirteenth- and fourteenth-century Italian art. You’ll probably feel it’s worth putting up with the crowds and increasingly overwhelming commercialism, but you may not want to hang around once you’ve seen all there is to see – something which can easily be done in a day. That said, Assisi quietens down in the evening, and it does retain considerable medieval hill-town charm.

Arrival and information

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Buses connect regularly with surrounding towns – especially Perugia – putting down and picking up in Piazza Matteotti, in the east of the town above the Duomo. In addition, two buses a day leave for Rome and one for Florence, from Piazza Unità d’Italia. There are very frequent (at least hourly) trains to Foligno (via Spello) and Terontola (via Perugia). Bus #C connects the station, which is 5km away to the southwest of the centre, with Piazza Matteotti every 30 minutes. If you are driving, note that the centre of town is closed to traffic: your best bet is to park either in Piazza Matteotti at the top (eastern) end of the town, or below the basilica in Piazza Unità d’Italia. The tourist office is at the western end of Piazza del Comune (April– Oct Mon–Sat 8am–2pm & 3–6.30pm, Sun 10am–1pm & 3–6pm; Nov–March Mon–Fri 8am–2pm & 2–5pm, Sat 9am–1pm & 3–6pm, Sun 9am–1pm & 2–5pm; T 075.813.8681 or 075.813.8680, W www.assisi.regioneumbria.eu).

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Accommodation Assisi offers a wide range of accommodation, but the supply is often only just adequate for the number of visitors, so advance booking is highly advisable, and essential if you plan to visit over Easter or during the Festa di San Francesco (Oct 3–4) or Calendimaggio (early May). July and August are low season in Assisi, when hotels will often lower their rates. The tourist office has a full list of lodgings, including over thirty rooms for rent and can also supply details of B&Bs, agriturismi Eremo d. Carceri Rocca Maggiore

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and pilgrim hostels. Spello is close enough to make seeing Assisi easy. Wherever you choose to stay, avoid the concentration of rooms and hotels in Santa Maria degli Angeli or the grim village of Bastia, 4km out of Assisi. Hotels

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Alexander Piazza Chiesa Nuova 6 T 075.816.190, Wwww.hotelalexander assisi.it. This 9-room hotel has an excellent position just off Piazza del Comune, but beneﬁts from its location on a quiet piazza. The rooms are wood-beamed and decorated in neutral tones, with spotless en-suite bathrooms. Breakfast is taken in the nearby Dei Priori hotel. 2 Fontebella Via Fontebella 25 T075.812.883, W www.fontebella.com. Though a little faded in places, this is still the town’s most elegant and intimate choice. Ask for a room on one of the top ﬂoors for great panoramas. Prices can dip as low as €70 out of season. 5 Giotto Assisi Via Fontebella 41 T075.812.209, Wwww.hotelgiottoassisi.it. In business since 1899, this four-star has recently been completely renovated. The rooms are very comfortable, if a little bland, and there are ﬁne views from the terrace restaurant. It’s the only hotel with parking in the centro storico. 4 La Fortezza Vicolo della Fortezza 19/B T 075.812.418, Wwww.lafortezzahotel.com. Friendly two-star with just seven rooms in a perfect position next to Piazza del Comune, with thoughtful touches such as free water and free tea and coffee in the afternoon; the co-owned restaurant is also excellent. 2

La Rocca Via di Porta Perlici 27 T 075.812.284, Wwww.hotelarocca.it. This one-star situated at the end of the street beyond the Duomo has been managed by the same family since the 1950s. Of the 30 rooms, book one of the ﬁve with views; all have private bathroom. Breakfast not included. 1 Pallotta Via San Ruﬁno 6 T 075.812.307, Wwww.pallottaassisi.it. A two-star in a good location between the Duomo and Piazza del Comune; also has a ﬁrst-rate co-owned trattoria just off Piazza del Comune (see p.552). 2 Sole Corso Mazzini 35 T075.812.373, Wwww .assisihotelsole.com. This functional two-star 1min walk from the Basilica di Santa Chiara has outdated decor but at least the rooms are a decent size. Ask for one of the ones with a little balcony or terrace. Breakfast not included. 2

Hostel and campsite Fontemaggio 3km east of town on Via San Ruﬁno Campagna T075.813.636 or 075.812.317, Wwww.fontemaggio.it. Hostel/hotel also with a 244-pitch campsite. The fairly rural setting is better than the sites you may see advertised towards Baschi on the other side of Assisi; there’s also a decent shop to save you the trek into town for supplies. Dorm beds €24, rooms 1

The Basilica di San Francesco Pilgrims and art lovers alike usually make straight for the Basilica di San Francesco (Mon–Sat 6am–6.45pm, closes 5.45pm in winter; entry may be restricted during services and on Sun morning), justiﬁably famed as Umbria’s single greatest glory, and one of the most overwhelming collections of art outside a gallery anywhere in the world. Started in 1228, two years after the saint’s death, and ﬁnanced by donations that ﬂooded in from all over Europe, it’s not as grandiose as some religious shrines, though it still strikes you as being a long way from the embodiment of Franciscan principles. If you don’t mind compromised ideals, the two churches making up the basilica – one built on top of the other – are a treat. The Lower Church

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The sombre Lower Church – down the steps to the left – comes earlier, both structurally and artistically. The complicated ﬂoor plan and claustrophobic low-lit vaults were intended to create a mood of calm and meditative introspection – an effect added to by brown-robed monks, a ban on photography and a rule of silence. Francis lies under the ﬂoor in a crypt only brought to light in 1818 after 52 days of digging (entrance midway down the nave). He was hidden after his funeral for safekeeping, and nowadays endures almost continuous Masses in dozens of languages.

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Frescoes cover almost every available space and span a century of continuous artistic development. Stilted early works by anonymous painters inﬂuenced by the Byzantines sit alongside Roman painters such as Cavallini, who with Cimabue pioneered the move from mosaic to naturalism and the “new” medium of fresco. They were followed by the best of the Sienese School, Simone Martini and Pietro Lorenzetti, whose paintings are the ones to make a real point of seeing. Martini’s frescoes are in the Cappella di San Martino (1322–26), the ﬁrst chapel on the left as you enter the nave. He was given free rein in the chapel, and every detail, right down to the ﬂoor and stained glass, follows his drawings, adding up to a uniﬁed scheme that’s unique in Italy. Lorenzetti’s works, dominated by a powerful Cruciﬁxion, are in the transept to the left of the main altar. Vaults above the altar itself contain four magniﬁcent frescoes, complicated but colourful allegories of the virtues on which Francis founded his order: Poverty, Chastity and Obedience. Once thought to have been the work of Giotto, they’re now attributed to one of the church’s army of unknown artists. The big feature in the right transept is Cimabue’s over-restored Madonna, Child and Angels with St Francis, a painting Ruskin described as “the noblest depiction of the Virgin in Christendom”. Look out for the famous portrait of Francis and for the much-reproduced fresco of St Clare on the wall to its left. If time allows check out the cloisters, accessible from the rear right-hand side of the Lower Church, and the Treasury, or Museo del Tesoro e Collezione F.M. Perkins (April–Oct Mon–Sat 9.30am–5pm; donation), reached via the apse of the Lower Church. The latter, often passed by, contains a rich collection of paintings – including works by Pietro Lorenzetti and Masolino da Panicale. The Upper Church

The more straightforward Upper Church (opens 8.30am), built to a light and airy Gothic plan – that was to be followed for countless Franciscan churches – is a completely different experience. It’s less a church than an excuse to show off Giotto’s dazzling frescoes on the life of St Francis. Francis Preaching to the Birds and Driving the Devils from Arezzo are just two of the famous scenes reproduced worldwide on cards and posters. The cycle starts on the right-hand wall up by the main altar and continues clockwise. Giotto was still in his 20s when he accepted the commission, having been recommended for the job by Cimabue, whose own frescoes – almost ruined now by the oxidation of badly chosen pigments and further damaged in the 1997 earthquake – ﬁll large parts of the apse and transepts. In the vaults, several harsh areas of bare plaster stand as graphic monuments to the collapse of that year.

Via San Francesco Via San Francesco leads back to the town centre from the basilica. Partway along the street on the left is the Palazzo Vallemani, the site of Assisi’s excellent Pinacoteca (daily: March–May & Sept–Oct 10am–1pm & 2.30–6pm; June–Aug 10am–1pm & 2.30–7pm; Nov–Feb 10.30am–1pm & 2–5pm; €3, or joint ticket with Foro Romano & Rocca Maggiore €8). It would be easy to ignore this after the rich artistic pickings of the basilica, but the gallery is well worth the admission, not least for the many detached frescoes rescued from churches and other buildings around Assisi, among them important works by the Gubbian artist Ottaviano Nelli. The displays are enhanced by good English commentaries. A little further down the street on the right are the remains of the ﬁfteenth-century Oratorio dei Pellegrini (Mon–Sat 10am–noon & 4–6pm; free), the hospice for pilgrims, frescoed inside and out by local painters Mezzastris and Matteo da Gualdo – appealing but modest offerings after the basilica (and often out of bounds because of praying nuns).

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St Francis

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The most extraordinary ﬁgure the Italian Church has produced, St Francis was a revolutionary ﬁgure who took Christianity back to basics. The impact he had on the evolution of the Catholic Church stands without parallel, and everything he accomplished in his short life was achieved by nothing more persuasive than the power of preaching and personal example. Dante placed him alongside another messianic ﬁgure, John the Baptist, and his appeal has remained undiminished – Mussolini called him “il piu santo dei santi” (the most saintly of the saints). The events of his life, though doubtless embellished by myth, are well chronicled. He was born in Assisi in 1182, the son of a wealthy merchant and a Provençal woman – which is why he replaced his baptismal name, Giovanni, with Francesco (Little Frenchman). The Occitan literature of Provence, with its troubadour songs and courtly love poems, was later to be the making of Francis as a poet and speaker. One of the earliest writers in the vernacular, Francis laid the foundation of a great Franciscan literary tradition – his Fioretti and famous Canticle to the Sun (“brother sun … sister moon”) stand comparison with the best of medieval verse. In line with the early life of most male saints, his formative years were full of drinking and womanizing; he was, says one chronicler, “the ﬁrst instigator of evil, and behind none in foolishness”. Illness and imprisonment in a Perugian jail incubated the ﬁrst seeds of contemplation. Abstinence and solitary wanderings soon followed. The call from God, the culmination of several visions, came in Assisi in 1209, when the cruciﬁx in San Damiano bowed to him and told him to repair God’s Church. Francis took the injunction literally, sold his father’s stock of cloth and gave the money to Damiano’s priest, who refused it. Francis subsequently renounced his inheritance in the Piazza del Comune: before a large crowd and his outraged father, he stripped naked in a symbolic rejection of wealth and worldly shackles. Adopting the peasant’s grey sackcloth (the brown Franciscan habit came later), he began to beg, preach and mix with lepers, a deliberate embodiment of Christ’s invocation to the Apostles “to heal the sick, and carry neither purse, nor scrip [money], nor shoes”. His message was disarmingly simple: throw out the materialistic trappings of daily life and return to a love of God rooted in poverty, chastity and obedience. Furthermore, learn to see in the beauty and profusion of the natural world the all-pervasive hand of the Divine – a keystone of humanist thought and a departure from the doom-laden strictures of the Dark Ages. In time he gathered his own twelve apostles and, after some difﬁculty, obtained permission from Pope Innocent III to found an order that espoused no dogma and maintained no rule. Francis himself never became a priest. In 1212 he was instrumental in the creation of a second order for women, the Poor Clares, and continued the vast travels that took him as far as the Holy Land with the armies of the Crusades. In Egypt he confronted the sultan, Melek el-Kamel, offering to undergo a trial by ﬁre to prove his faith. In 1224 Francis received the stigmata on the mountaintop at La Verna. Two years later, nursing his exhausted body, he died on the mud ﬂoor of his hovel in Assisi, having scorned the offer of grander accommodation at the bishop’s palace. His canonization followed swiftly, in 1228, in a service conducted by Pope Gregory. However, a split in the Franciscan order was inevitable. Francis’s message and movement had few sympathizers in the wealthy and morally bankrupt papacy of the time, and while his popularity had obliged the Vatican to applaud while he was alive, the papacy quickly moved in to quash the purist elements and encourage more “moderate” tendencies. Gradually it shaped the movement to its own designs, institutionalizing Francis’s message in the process. Despite this, Francis’s achievement as the ﬁrst man to fracture the rigid orthodoxy of the hierarchical Church remains beyond question. Moreover, the Franciscans have not lost their ideological edge, and their views on the primacy of poverty are thought by many to be out of favour with the present Vatican administration.

Piazza del Comune and around

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Of more limited appeal is the Foro Romano e Collezione Archeologica entered just off Piazza del Comune at Via Portica 2 (same hours as Pinacoteca; €4; joint ticket with Pinacoteca & Rocca Maggiore €8), housed in the crypt of the now defunct church of San Niccolò. The classical remains include an excavated street – probably part of the old Roman forum – buried under the Piazza del Comune. The piazza itself is dominated by the so-called Tempio di Minerva, an enticing and perfectly preserved classical facade from the ﬁrst century, concealing a dull, if beautifully restored, seventeenth-century Baroque conversion; it was the only thing Goethe was bothered about seeing when he came to Assisi – the basilica he avoided, calling it a “Babylonian pile”. Francis’s birthplace lies just south of the piazza, marked by the Chiesa Nuova, a dreary church. A short hike in the other direction up the steep Via di San Ruﬁno brings you to the thirteenth-century Duomo (daily: summer 7am–12.30pm & 2.30–7pm, Aug 7am–7pm; winter 7am–1pm & 2.30–6pm) with a typical and very lovely three-tiered Umbrian facade and sumptuously carved central doorway. The only point of interest in a boring interior is the font used to baptize St Francis, St Clare and – by a historical freak – the future Emperor Frederick II, born prematurely in a ﬁeld outside the town. Off the right (south) nave, there’s the small Museo Diocesano (mid-March to mid-Oct Thurs–Tues 10am–1pm & 3–6pm except Aug daily 10am–6pm; rest of year Thurs–Tues 10am–1pm & 2.30–5.30pm; €3), with a handful of good paintings, including a 1470 work by Niccolò Alunno, and an atmospheric crypt, the Cripta di San Ruﬁno (same hours & ticket), entered outside down steps to the right of the facade. The cathedral makes a good point from which to strike off for the Rocca Maggiore (daily 10am–dusk; €5, €8 with Pinacoteca & Foro Romano), one of the bigger and better preserved in the region, with some all-embracing views the reward after a stiff climb.

The Basilica di Santa Chiara and south Below the Duomo, on the pedestrianized Piazza Santa Chiara, stands the Basilica di Santa Chiara (daily 6.30am–noon & 2–7pm, closes 6pm in winter), burial place of St Francis’s devoted early companion, who at the age of 17 founded the Order of the Poor Clares, the female wing of the Franciscans. By some peculiar and not terribly digniﬁed quirk she’s also the patron saint of television. The church was consecrated in 1265 and is a virtual facsimile of the basilica up the road, down to the simple facade and opulent rose window. The scantily decorated interior has the body of St Clare herself and the Byzantine cruciﬁx famous for having bowed to Francis and commanded him to embark on his sacred mission to repair God’s Church (see box opposite). You’re never long off the Francis trail in Assisi. San Damiano (daily 10am–noon & 2–6pm, closes 4.30pm in winter; free), a peaceful spot of genuine monastic charm, is one of its highlights, and is easily reached by taking the Via Borgo Aretino beyond the basilica and following signs from the Porta Nuova, a steep downhill walk of about ﬁfteen minutes. Original home to the Poor Clares, and one of St Francis’s favourite spots (he is thought to have written his well-known Canticle to the Sun here), the church, cloisters and rustic setting preserve – almost uniquely in Assisi – a sense of the original Franciscan ideals of humility and simplicity often absent in the rest of the town. From the train station you can see the town’s other major attraction, the vast but uninspiring Santa Maria degli Angeli (daily 6.15am–12.50pm & 2.30–7.30pm), built in the seventeenth century and rebuilt after an earthquake in 1832. Somewhere in its Baroque bowels are the remains of the Porzuincola, a tiny chapel that was

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effectively the ﬁrst Franciscan monastery. Francis lived here after founding the order in 1208, attracted by its then remote and wooded surroundings, and in time was joined by other monks and hermits who built a series of cells and mud huts in the vicinity. Today the church is crammed full of largely fourth-rate works of art and is a long way from the Franciscan ideal.

Eating, drinking and entertainment Multilingual tourist menus proliferate in the town’s restaurants, and prices can be steep. For wonderful ice cream and mouthwatering pastries, head for the Gran Caffè, Corso Mazzini 16/A. Assisi’s main festivals are the Festa di San Francesco (October 3–4), commemorating the death of the saint, and Calendimaggio, three days of lively games and contests between the two parts of the city, “Parte de Sopra” and “Parte di Sotto”, which takes place in early May. Restaurants UM BRI A

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Buca di San Francesco Via Brizzi 1 T075.812.204. The Buca has been around for ever, and is generally a reliable choice for a decent meal, with simple mains such as grilled sausages for €7, as well as some pricier local specialities, in a rustic, stone-walled space. Tues–Sun noon–2.30pm & 7–10pm. Da Erminio Via Montecavallo 19 T075.812.506. Located above the Duomo in a quiet corner, this restaurant is very good value, with a ﬁxed menu of the day for €16. Fri–Wed noon–2.30pm & 7–9pm, Aug also open Thurs lunch; closed Feb & ﬁrst half of July. La Fortezza Vicolo della Fortezza 2 T075.812.993. Long-established spot just off the main Piazza del Comune; great food but slightly slow service; reservations essential in summer. Fri–Wed 12.30–2.30pm & 7.30–10.30pm.

Medio Evo Via dell’Arco dei Priori 4/B T075.813.068. This place is highly recommended for its excellent, creative cuisine. Pasta stuffed with pheasant and black trufﬂe (€13) is a speciality; tasting menus start at €39 with wine. The dimly lit, stone-vaulted space, enlivened with background jazz and bossa nova, is atmospheric at dinner. Tues–Sun 12.30–3pm & 7.30–10.45pm; Nov–Feb open Fri–Sun only. Pallotta Via Volta Piana 2 T075.812.649. An unpretentious and welcoming trattoria with a lovely wood-beamed dining room just south of Piazza del Comune – arrive early for a table at lunch, when it’s usually packed. Secondi €7.50–16; 3-course menu with wine €16. Wed–Mon noon–3pm & 7–10.30pm.

Spello and around Ranged on broad terraces above the Vale of Spoleto, medieval and pink-stoned SPELLO is the best place for a taste of small-town Umbria if you haven’t time or means to explore farther, being easy to reach by road and rail (20min from Assisi or Spoleto). Emperor Augustus gave land in the adjacent valley to faithful legionnaires who had reached the end of their careers, turning the town (Hispellum) into a sort of Roman retirement home in the process, an ambience it still rather retains.

Arrival, information and accommodation

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If you’re coming by train from the south, note that you may have to change trains at Foligno for Spello. The station is a ten-minute walk from the centre of town. Spello makes a reasonable base for visiting Assisi, with a good range of accommodation, fair restaurants and a small tourist office at the northern end of Piazza Matteotti at no. 3 (daily 9.30am–12.30pm & 4–6pm; T 0742.301.009), which has information on the town’s Inﬁorata festival in early June, when the town’s street’s are carpeted with ﬂower-petal representations of religious scenes.

Hotels Il Cacciatore Via Giulia 42 T0742.651.141, W www.ilcacciatorehotel.com. A good-value three-star hotel, with ﬁne views from some rooms and potentially noisier rooms looking out over the street. 2 La Bastiglia Via dei Molini 17 T0742.651.277, Wwww.labastiglia.com. Smart, four-star option, where most of the rooms command a ﬁne view. The standard rooms are on the small side – it’s worth

paying a bit more for a superior or deluxe room. The two suites come with vast hydromassage baths and there’s a good restaurant too (see p.554). 2 Palazzo Bocci Via Cavour 17 T 0742.301.021, Wwww.palazzobocci.com. Right in the centre of town, this upmarket option has a tranquil garden – the perfect place for evening aperitivi – and is also cosy in winter, with a large ﬁreplace in the communal lounge. Ask for one of the frescoed rooms. 5

The Town

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| Spello and around

The walls and three gateways are the most obvious Roman remnants. Don’t bother walking out to the paltry and overgrown remains of the old amphitheatre hidden away beyond the main highway to Assisi: you can see all you need to from the top of the town. By far the most distinguished sight is Pinturicchio’s fresco cycle in the thirteenth-century church of Santa Maria Maggiore (daily: April–Oct 8.30am–noon & 3–7pm; Nov–March 8.30am–noon & 3–6pm; free), about a third of the way up the town’s winding and steep main street on Piazza G. Matteotti. The number-two Umbrian painter after Perugino, he left other important works in Siena (the Duomo), Rome (the Sistine Chapel, Borgia apartments) and a host of churches scattered over central Italy. The frescoes themselves are fresh and glowing from restoration, with Pinturicchio’s famous details and colouring brought out to stunning effect. Unfortunately they’re behind glass, which also means you can’t get a closer look at the chapel’s praised but faded ﬁfteenth-century ceramic pavement. Almost immediately to the north of the church stands an excellent little art gallery, the Pinacoteca Civica (Tues–Sun: April–Sept 10.30am–1pm & 3–6.30pm; Oct–March 10.30am–12.30pm & 3.30–5.30pm; €2.60), which is currently expanding its exhibition space. It contains a handful of masterpieces by local Umbrian painters, notably Niccolò Alunno, as well as some rare pieces of sculpture. One of the works newly on display is the extremely rare ﬁgure of Christ with movable arms: during Holy Week the arms could be raised for ceremonies involving depictions of the Cruciﬁxion and lowered for those depicting the Deposition and Resurrection. Further up the busy, steep main street on the right stands Sant’Andrea (daily 10.30am–12.30pm & 3–5pm), a striking Gothic church with another Pinturicchio painting in the right transept brightening up the gloomy interior. Also look out for the looming cruciﬁx attributed to the school of Giotto.

Eating and drinking Bar Giardino Via Cavour 10–12. There appears nothing special about this small bar until you take your drink out to the wonderful panoramic garden terrace at the back. Light meals also served. Thurs–Tues: summer 7am–midnight, winter 7am–10pm. Hostaria de Dadà Via Cavour 47. A tiny place with a handful of shared tables – good for cheap, light meals at lunch or dinner. 2-course menu €15 excluding drinks, or 4 courses for €18. Mon–Sat noon–3pm & 7–10pm, Sun noon–3pm.

Il Cacciatore Via Giulia 42 T0742.651.141. Attached to the hotel (see above), with middling food and lower prices (mains €8–16) than nearby La Bastiglia but a tremendous terrace for alfresco dining. Tues–Sun 12.30–2.30pm & 7.30–10.30pm. Il Molino Piazza Matteotti 6–7 T 0742.651.305. Spello’s most appealing restaurant, set in a vaulted medieval townhouse a few steps up from Santa Maria Maggiore; a fairly smart place (mains around €15) serving wonderful fresh pasta and plenty of regional specialities, such as sliced beef with a

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sauce of caramelized balsamic vinegar. Wed–Mon 12.30–2.45pm & 7.45–10pm. La Bastiglia Via dei Molini 17 T 0742.651.277. A Michelin-starred restaurant attached to the La

Bastiglia hotel (see p.553), with stunning views. €30 lunch menu, or tasting menus from €50. Mon, Tues & Fri–Sun 1–2.30pm & 8–10pm, Thurs 1–2.30pm; closed mid-Jan to mid-Feb.

Bevagna

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The serene, attractive backwater of BEVAGNA is quieter and less visited than Spello, with a windswept central square of stark perfection. Flanked by two of Umbria’s ﬁnest Romanesque churches – both untouched and creaking with age – the Piazza S. Silvestri dates from around the thirteenth century. The only exception is the fountain, which, while blending perfectly, was installed in 1889. Look out particularly for the surreal gargoyles over the doorway of the larger church, San Michele. Also worth seeking out is the impressive Roman mosaic (north side of Via Porta Guelfa; same ticket and hours as Museo Civico: see below), once part of a bath complex. This ﬁne work shows octopus, lobsters, sea-centaurs and other creatures. To get to see it you’ll need to ﬁnd a guide at the small Museo Civico to take you there (April & May–Sept daily 10.30am–1pm & 2.30–6pm; June & July daily 10.30am–1pm & 3.30–7pm; Aug daily 10.30am–1pm & 3–7.30pm; Oct Tues–Sun 10.30am–1pm & 2.30–6pm; Nov–March Tues–Sun 10.30am–1pm & 2.30–5pm; €5 joint ticket with Roman mosaic and Teatro Torti, or €7 including Circuito Culturale). Located at Corso Matteotti 70, the museum is devoted to the history of the village and is currently being restructured to expand on its three sections: the archeological collection on the ground ﬂoor; maps, letters and other documents on the ﬁrst ﬂoor; and the Pinacoteca on the second ﬂoor, with mainly seventeenth-century paintings. The museum-and-mosaic joint ticket also gives access to the delightful little nineteenth-century Teatro Torti, just off the main square. You can also join guided tours at the museum around the Circuito Culturale dei Mestieri Medievali (April to mid-June & Sept same hours as museum; mid-June to July Fri–Sun 10.30am–1pm & 3–6.30pm; Aug Tues–Sun 10.30am–1pm & 3–6.30pm; ﬁrst half Oct Tues–Sun 10.30am–1pm & 2.30–5pm; mid-Oct to March open by booking only; T 074.236.0031; €5, or €7 joint ticket with museum). This involves visits to four recreated workshops connected with medieval trades, namely paper-maker, silk-weaver, a mint and a pharmacy. Practicalities

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Buses from Montefalco, Foligno, Perugia and Spoleto (all Mon–Sat) arrive in Largo A. Gramsci, just behind the main square. The Pro Loco tourist office is on Piazza Santa Maria Laurentia, off Corso Matteotti (daily: summer 9am–1pm & 3–7pm, winter 9am–1pm & 3.30–6pm; T 074.236.1667). Among the hotels, the most central is the simple Il Chiostro di Bevagna, Corso Matteotti 107 (T 0742.361.987, W www.ilchiostrodibevagna.com; 2 ), just off Piazza S. Silvestro, in an atmospheric renovated Dominican convent, with an original frescoed cloister and airy, pleasant rooms. Down the same street, the three-star Palazzo Brunamonti, Corso Matteotti 79 (T 0742.361.932, W www.brunamonti.com; 2), is a sumptuous place with a period setting and trompe l’oeil decorations. L’Orto degli Angeli (T 0742.360.130, W www.ortoangeli.it; 6 ), just off Corso Matteotti at the eastern end of town, is the most luxurious and historic of them all; the mansion, with porticoes, gardens, a pizzeria and a popular gourmet restaurant, Redibis (both closed Tues), has been in the same family since 1788. There are also a few good restaurants in town: try the mid-priced Ottavius, Via del Gonfalone 4/B (T 0742.360.555; closed Sun in winter), immediately south of the main square, which specializes in ﬁsh and grilled meats; or the Enoteca di Piazza Onofri, just behind the Palazzo Comunale at Piazza Onofri 1 (T 0742.361.926;

closed Wed & a period in July or Aug), with mains around €13 and a good choice of wines. Also appealing is the Osteria del Podestà, Corso Matteotti 67 (T 0742.361.832; closed Wed in winter), a small, central osteria serving traditional Umbrian meals at around €30 in rustic surroundings.

Montefalco

You can get here by bus from most local towns and villages, including four services daily from Bevagna and three daily from Perugia (Mon–Sat). Buses drop off in

| Montefalco

Practicalities

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MONTEFALCO is a pleasing and intimate medieval village that’s home to a superb collection of paintings. Its name, meaning Falcon’s Mount, was gloriﬁed with the appendage la ringhiera dell’Umbria – “the balcony of Umbria” – a tribute to its wonderful views. It was also the birthplace of eight saints, good going even by Italian standards. Nowadays the town’s sleepy rather than holy, with only a stupendously ugly water-tower and very slight urban sprawl to take the edge off its medieval appeal. The strong, blackberry-ﬂavoured local wine, Sagrantino Passito, made from a grape variety found nowhere else in Europe, is well worth a try; it’s available in many shops around town. Recommended producers are Adanti and Caprai, also makers of the excellent Rosso di Montefalco. The town’s lofty location was a godsend to Spoleto’s papal governors, left high, dry and terriﬁed by the fourteenth-century defection of the popes to Avignon. They took refuge here, and their cowering presence accounts for some of the rich decoration of Montefalco’s churches, a richness out of all proportion to the town’s size. The cavernous ex-church of San Francesco, off the central Piazza del Comune at Via Ringhiera Umbra 6, is now the Museo di San Francesco (March–May, Sept & Oct daily 10.30am–1pm & 2–6pm; June & July daily 10.30am–1pm & 3–7pm; Aug daily 10.30am–1pm & 3–7.30pm; Nov–Feb Tues–Sun 10.30am–1pm & 2.30–5pm; €5), housing the town’s big feature, Benozzo Gozzoli’s sumptuous fresco cycle on the life of St Francis. With Fra’ Angelico, Gozzoli was one of the most proliﬁc and inﬂuential Florentine painters to come south and show the backward Umbrians what the Renaissance was all about. Resplendent with colour and detail, the cycle copies many of the ideas and episodes from Giotto’s Assisi cycle but, with two hundred years of artistic know-how to draw on, is more sophisticated and more immediately appealing. The rest of the town is relatively low key but nice for a wander. Probably the most bizarre sight is the mummiﬁed body of St Clare (St Chiara), which languishes in the otherwise dismal church of the same name, ﬁve minutes’ walk from San Francesco in Via Verdi (this is a second St Clare, not to be confused with the one in Assisi). Ring the bell and, if the nuns aren’t deep in prayer, they may show you round the adjoining convent – a fascinating behind-the-scenes look at monastic life, where you can see the remains of the saint’s heart and the scissors used to hack it out. The story goes that Christ appeared to Clare, saying the burden of carrying the cross was becoming too heavy; Clare replied she would help by carrying it in her heart. When she was opened up after her death, a crossshaped piece of tissue was duly found on her heart. Other strange exhibits include three of her kidney stones and a tree that miraculously grew from a staff planted in the garden here by Christ, during one of his appearances to Clare; the berries are used to make rosaries and are said to have powerful medicinal qualities. Fifty metres beyond the church, preceded by a triple-arched Renaissance porch, is the chapel of Sant’Illuminata, strikingly if not terribly well frescoed by local painter Melanzio and others in 1510.

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the huge car park below town, from where it’s a ﬁve-minute walk uphill to the centre. If you want more information on the town, contact the infrequently open Pro Loco office alongside the Museo or visit the office or website of the Strada del Sagrantino at Piazza del Comune 17 (Mon–Fri 8am–6.30pm, Sat & Sun 10am–4pm; T 0742.378.490, W www.stradadelsagrantino.it), a body which promotes the wines of the region and sells a map of local cantine (€0.50), useful if you’re planning a tour of the local wineries. The office also has plenty of general background on places to stay, eat and visit, as well as local events, including the Agosto Montefalchese (mid-Aug) – two weeks of cultural events and open-air concerts culminating in the Fuga del Bove, a bull race that has taken place here for centuries. There’s no need to spend more than a morning in Montefalco, but if you do decide to stay – and it’s a peaceful spot to rest up – try the recently opened A Palazzo Bontadosi (Piazza del Comune 19; T 0742.379.357, W www.hotelbontadosi.it; 5 ), right in the main square, with twelve sumptuously furnished rooms and a swanky spa in the basement. The vast junior suite, with frescoes and a bathtub in the bedroom, plus peerless views of the square, is worth a splurge. The best restaurant is the mid-priced Coccorone, on the corner of Largo Tempestivi and Via Fabbri (T 0742.379.535; closed Wed except in summer) – its crespelle (stuffed pancakes) and tiramisù are especially good, and there’s a two-course tasting menu for €14. Otherwise, there are cafés, restaurants and wine bars in the main square.

| Trevi

Trevi Road and rail south of Assisi and Spello run down the plain of Spoleto, past the light industrial sites that blight the whole stretch of the valley towards Terni and beyond. Not many people stop before Spoleto itself, giving TREVI and its towering position no more than an admiring glance. Its daunting inaccessibility is one of the reasons for its easy-going, old-fashioned charm; the feeling is of a pleasant, ordinary provincial town, unspoilt but beginning to feel the ﬁrst effects of tourism. All around it are vast expanses of olive groves, renowned for producing central Italy’s ﬁnest oil. The key sight in town is the superb Museo di San Francesco (April–May & Sept Tues–Sun 10am–12.30pm & 2.30–6pm; June & July Tues–Sun 10am–12.30pm & 3.30–7pm; Aug daily 10.30am–12.30pm & 3–7.30pm; Oct–March Fri–Sun 10.30am–1pm & 2.30–5pm; €4) in Largo Don Bosco, in the former Convento di San Francesco, reached by taking Via di San Francesco from the northern end of the main Piazza Mazzini. It houses a well-presented display of coins, ceramics and Roman fragments, several paintings by Umbrian masters and one outstanding work, a Coronation of the Virgin (1522) by Lo Spagna. Trevi’s medieval governors commissioned this last painting as a copy of a more famous work by the Florentine Ghirlandaio, mainly because they couldn’t afford the real thing. In the same complex, the Museo della Civiltà dell’Ulivo (same hours and ticket) is a smart museum devoted to history of the olive and olive oil production: it’s packed with interesting information, in English and Italian. Practicalities

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The medieval centre, looming high on its hill, is 4km from the train station, connected by ﬁve daily buses. The main square, Piazza Mazzini, has a small and obliging tourist office at no. 4 (Tues–Sun 10.30am–1pm & 2–5.30pm; T 0742.332.269, W www.treviturismo.it), which has audioguides to the town as well as information on the local olive-oil route (W www.stradaoliodopumbria .it). In a corner of the same piazza, the Tourist Co-Op (daily 3.30–7.30pm; T 0742.780.066) can organize all manner of accommodation locally, from private rooms to villas, as well as a variety of tours and activities.

Accommodation is limited: the best central choice is the very polished Antica Dimora alla Rocca, Piazza della Rocca (T 0742.38.541, W www.hotelallarocca.it; 3), part of a historic 1650 building with frescoed ceilings and other period features, all beautifully restored. Ask to be in the main hotel, with 24 rooms, rather than the ten-room annexe. Alternatively, there’s the revamped three-star Il Terziere (T 0742.78.359, W www.ilterziere.com; 3 ), which has the bonus of a pleasant garden and swimming pool: it lies east of the vast square and car park by which you enter Trevi on its eastern side at Via Salerno 1. For food try La Vecchia Posta, Piazza Mazzini 14 (T 0742.381.690), or the more expensive, and half-hidden, La Prepositura, Vicolo Oscura 2/A, just below Piazza della Rocca, which has lovely medieval dining areas and full set meals, excluding wine, from €37 per person. Maggiolini, off Piazza Mazzini at Via San Francesco 20 (T 0742.381.534; closed Tues), serves good Umbrian staples and is housed in part of a sixteenth-century wine cellar; a full meal will set you back about €25. Fonti del Clitunno UM BRI A

| Trevi • Spoleto

If you have your own transport (or there are eight daily buses from Spoleto), consider making the short hop from Trevi south to the sacred FONTI DEL CLITUNNO (Mon–Fri: March 9am–1pm & 2–6/6.30pm; April 9am–7.30/8pm; May–Aug 8.30am–8.30pm; Sept 8.30/9am–7/7.30pm; Oct 9am–1pm & 2–6pm; Nov–Feb 10am–1pm & 2–4.30pm; Sat & Sun same opening and closing hours year-round but remains open all day; €2), an unexpected beauty spot given the pockmarked surroundings. There’s a certain amount of commercialized fuss and bother at the entrance, but the springs, streams and willow-shaded lake beyond – painted by Corot and an inspiration to poets from Virgil to Byron – are pure, languid romanticism. The spa waters have attracted people since Roman times – the likes of Caligula and Claudius came here to party – but their major curative effect is allegedly the dubious one of completely extinguishing any appetite for alcohol. Earthquakes over the years have upset many of the underground springs, so the waters aren’t as plentiful as they were, but they still ﬂow as limpid as they did in Byron’s day, the “sweetest wave of the most living crystal … the purest god of gentle waters … most serene of aspect and most clear … a mirror and a bath for Beauty’s youngest daughters”. A few hundred metres north is the so-called Tempietto del Clitunno (daily: April–Oct 8.45am–7.45pm; Nov–March 8.45am–5.45pm; €2), looking for all the world like a miniature Greek temple but actually an eighth-century Christian church, cobbled together with a mixture of idiosyncrasy, wishful thinking and old Roman columns. It’s only a small, one-off novelty, but still evocative, and with the bonus inside of some faded frescoes said to be the oldest in Umbria.

Spoleto SPOLETO is among Umbria’s most charming large towns, divided into the medieval and hilltop Upper Town, home to the Duomo and most of the key museums and galleries, and the predominantly modern Lower Town, which nonetheless preserves a handful of Romanesque churches and Roman ruins. Known these days mainly for its big summer festival (see box, p.561), it’s also remarkable for its thorough-going medievalism, an extremely scenic setting, and several of Italy’s most ancient Romanesque churches. Far more graceful and provincial a city than Perugia, nowadays it plays second ﬁddle politically to its long-time historical enemy, though for several centuries it was among the most inﬂuential of Italian towns.

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The Spoleto Card Available from April to September, the Spoleto Card (W www.spoletocard.it) provides free entrance to the town’s seven museums, as well as free local public transport. The card is available in various forms: €12 for one day, €16 for two days, or €10 for four museums in one day. You can buy it from any of the town’s museums, or from the bookshop at the Duomo.

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Two kilometres of well-preserved walls stand as testament to the one-time grandeur of Spoleto’s Roman colony, though its real importance dates from the sixth century when the Lombards made it the capital of one of their three Italian dukedoms. The autonomous Duchy of Spoleto eventually stretched to Rome, and by 890 its rulers had become powerful enough to lay claim to the imperial throne itself, making Spoleto, for a short time at least, the capital of the entire Holy Roman Empire. Barbarossa ﬂattened the city in a ﬁt of pique in 1155, and in 1499 Pope Alexander VI appointed his daughter, the 19-year-old Lucrezia Borgia, governor. After that it was one long decline until about ﬁfty years ago and the arrival of the festival.

| Spoleto

Arrival and information Spoleto is easily reached by train, with regular services on the main Rome– Ancona line and local links with Foligno, Terni, Orte and elsewhere. The train station is just northwest of the Lower Town; shuttle buses (#A, #B, #C) to the centre (Piazza Carducci) depart from outside the station – buy tickets (€1) from the station bar – as do services for Norcia; other buses leave from Piazza della Vittoria, just outside the walls to the north of the town. The Spoleto tourist office is at Piazza Libertà 7 (April–Oct Mon–Fri 8.30am–1.30pm & 4–7pm, Sat & Sun 9.30am–12.30pm & 4–7pm; Nov–March Mon–Fri 8.30am–1.30pm & 3.30–6.30pm, Sat 9.30am–12.30pm & 3.30–6.30pm, Sun 9.30am–12.30pm; T 0743.218.620, E [email protected]).

Accommodation Hotels

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Albergo Panciolle Via del Duomo 3 T0743.45.677, Wwww.albergopanciolle.it. Seven decent two-star rooms (two with a/c) – the best are nos. 3 and 4, with views over the rooftops. It’s above the restaurant of the same name, and outdoor eating can make staying here a noisy option in summer. Half-board available for €18. 2 Aurora Via dell’Apollinare 3 T 0743.220.315, W www.hotelauroraspoleto.it. The best budget hotel in town is this perfectly situated, 23-room three-star in an alley off Piazza Libertà. 2 Gattapone Via del Ponte 6 T 0743.223.447, W www.hotelgattapone.it. A welcoming family-run hotel with lovely views from most rooms, which are spectacularly situated above the gorge and almost alongside the Ponte delle Torri. 3

Palazzo Leti Via degli Eremiti 10 T0743.224.930, Wwww.palazzoleti.com. Set in the palatial residence of the noble Leti family, this beautifully renovated hotel has elegantly decorated rooms with views of the valley; book one on the top ﬂoor for the best panorama. There’s also a beautiful formal garden overlooking the valley. 4 San Luca Via Interna delle Mura 21 T0743.223.399, W www.hotelsanluca.com. This very tastefully furnished four-star is efﬁciently run and has the bonus of a large, sunny garden. 4

Campsite Camping Monteluco T0743.220.358, Wwww.campingspoleto.com. An attractive pastoral site behind San Pietro, with only 35 places and a bar/pizzeria, but an uphill trek to the Upper Town. Open April–Sept.

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Trevi, Foligno, Norcia & Campsite (7km)

Terni, San Pietro & Monteluco Campsite

Monteluco

The Lower Town The Lower Town was badly damaged by World War II bombing and its only real interest lies in a couple of ﬁrst-rate churches, most impressive of which is the fourth-century paleo-Christian San Salvatore (daily: May–Aug 7am–7pm; April & Sept 7am–6pm; March & Oct 8am–6pm; Nov–Feb 8am–5pm), built by Christian monks from the eastern Mediterranean in the fourth century, since when it’s hardly been touched. Conceived when the only models for religious buildings were Roman temples, that’s pretty much what the monks came up with, the net result leaning more to paganism than Christianity. The walls inside are bare, the ﬂoors covered in fallen stone, and the dusty gloom is heavy with an almost eerie antiquity. Crumbling Corinthian columns from different ages are wedged awkwardly alongside one another, and at some point the arches in the nave were ﬁlled in to prevent total collapse.

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A few moments’ walk to the southwest, off Via del Cimitero, is San Ponziano (daily 9am–noon & 4–6pm; ring the bell at the adjacent monastery to gain access), unremarkable but for its distinctive Romanesque facade and a beautiful tenthcentury crypt (both open irregular hours). The Lower Town’s other attraction, in a prominent position on the main Piazza Garibaldi, is the church of San Gregorio Maggiore (daily 8am–noon & 4–6pm), started in 1069. The tower and intriguing portico are made from a patchwork of fragments clearly pinched from earlier Roman remains, but it’s the interior that commands most attention. Stripped back to their Romanesque state, the walls are dotted with substantial patches of fresco and interrupted by a series of unusual stone confessionals. The presbytery is raised several metres above the level of the naves to allow for a masterful little crypt, supported by dozens of tiny pillars. Tradition has it that somewhere under the church lie the bones of ten thousand Christian martyrs killed by the Romans in the amphitheatre close by in the military barracks on Via dell’Anﬁteatro. No one seems to mind if you just walk straight in; bear right from the gateway for the best of the amphitheatre’s remains. The ever-ingenious Romans apparently constructed special gutters to drain blood from the arena into the nearby Torrente Tessino, which ran crimson as a result.

The Upper Town

| Spoleto

There’s plenty to explore in the medieval Upper Town. Buses drop off at the central Piazza Carducci, and all of the sights are within a ﬁfteen-minute walk of here. Piazza della Libertà and around

A good place to get a sense of Roman Spoleto, on the western edge of the central Piazza della Libertà at Via Sant’Agata, is the town’s Museo Archeologico (daily 8.30am–7.30pm; €4), documenting the Roman presence in the city with local ﬁnds; included in the ticket is a visit to the ﬁrst-century-BC Teatro Romano, still used for performances during the Spoleto Festival. The adjoining Piazza della Fontana holds more Roman remains. Of the town’s many arches from the period, the Arco di Druso (23 AD) straddling the entrance to the Piazza del Mercato is the only one not embedded in a wall. It was intended as a triumphal gateway to the old forum, and built to honour what, given the gate’s rather modest dimensions, must have been very minor campaign victories on the part of Drusus, son of Tiberius. The patched-up walls behind it are the city’s oldest, built in the sixth century BC by the Umbrians. To the right of the arch is what is described as a Roman temple, but unless you’ve a vivid imagination it’s difficult to see it as anything other than a ditch. Pop into the adjacent church of Sant’Ansano (daily 8.30am–noon & 3.30–5.30pm, Nov–March closes 6.30pm) for a look at more of the temple and the wonderful fresco-covered crypt (down the stairs to the left of the high altar), originally the home of sixth-century monks. Nowhere do you get a better sense of Spoleto’s market-town roots than in the bustling Piazza del Mercato beyond Piazza della Fontana, whose two bars on the west side offer a ﬁne opportunity to take in some streetlife. The alimentari on all sides are a cornucopia of goodies, with a deﬁnite bias towards truffles and sticky liqueurs. The Duomo

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Leaving Piazza del Mercato to the north and turning right on Via A. Saffi brings you to the Duomo (daily: April–Oct 8am–12.30pm & 3.30–7pm; Nov–March closes 5.30pm; free), whose facade of restrained elegance is one of the most memorable in the region. The careful balance of Romanesque and Renaissance elements is framed by a gently sloping piazza and lovely hanging gardens, but the

The Festival dei Due Mondi Hosting Italy’s leading international arts festival, the Festival dei Due Mondi (Festival of Two Worlds), has been a double-edged blessing for Spoleto – crowds and commercialism being the price it has had to pay for culture. Having already rejected thirty other Italian locations, the inﬂuential arts guru Giancarlo Menotti plumped for the town in 1958, attracted by its scenery, small venues and general good vibes. The ensuing jamboree is a great attraction if you’re into music, dance or theatre, though the place forgoes a good part of its charm for the duration. While the festival is in progress – for two weeks between June and July – you can expect packed hotels and restaurants, and the chance of higher prices all round. At the same time there’s an Edinburgh-type fringe and plenty of fellow travellers (plus lots of ﬁlms, jazz, buskers and so on). Organizers, moreover, are increasingly looking to more avant-garde shows to recover the artistic edge of the festival’s early days. Check out information from the tourist ofﬁce or the festival’s main box ofﬁce at Piazza della Libertà 10 (T0743.776.444, Wwww.festival dispoleto.com). For big events, it’s worth buying tickets in advance online.

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| Spoleto

broad background of sky and open countryside is what sets the seal on the whole thing. The church suffered like many in Italy from the desire of rich communities to make their wealth and power conspicuous, a desire usually realized by tearing the guts out of old churches and remodelling them in the latest style. This worked well on the thirteenth-century facade, which has an arched portico tacked on in 1491, but less well in the interior where Pope Urban VIII’s architect, Luigi Arrigucci, applied great dollops of Baroque midway through the seventeenth century. His “improvements”, luckily, are eclipsed by the apse’s superlative frescoes by the great Florentine artist Fra’ Filippo Lippi, dominated by his ﬁnal masterpiece, a Coronation of the Virgin (1469). The artist died shortly after their completion, the rumour being that he was poisoned for seducing the daughter of a local noble family, his position as a monk having had no bearing on his sexual appetite. The Spoletans, not too perturbed by moral laxity, were delighted at having someone famous to put in their cathedral, being, as Vasari put it, “poorly provided with ornaments, above all with distinguished men”, and so refused to send the dead artist back to Lorenzo de’ Medici, his Florentine patron. Interred in a tomb designed by his son, Filippino Lippi (now in the right transept), the corpse disappeared during restoration two centuries later, the popular theory being that it was spirited away by descendants of the compromised girl – a sort of vendetta beyond the grave. You should also make a point of seeing the Erioli Chapels at the beginning of the right nave, primarily for a faded Madonna and Child (with Lago Trasimeno in the background) by Pinturicchio (1497), and for the cruder frescoes in the adjoining chapel by the Sicilian artist Jacopo Santori. There’s also a good Cosmati marble ﬂoor; Umbria’s earliest documented painting (a Cruciﬁx of 1187, by Alberto Sotio, behind glass at the beginning of the left nave); a colourful chapel further down the left nave containing a framed letter written by St Francis (one of only two to survive); and the inevitable icon, which Barbarossa gave to the town in 1185 to try to make amends for having ﬂattened it thirty years earlier. The Casa Romana and Palazzo Collicola

In a tiny side-street below the Palazzo Comunale is the Casa Romana, Via di Visiale (Mon–Thurs 11am–6pm, Fri–Sun 10.30am–7pm; €2.50), a dark and atmospheric little corner that contains the impressive remains of a Roman house. The Palazzo Collicola, to the west across Corso Mazzini on Piazza Collicola (mid-March to mid-Oct Tues 4–6.30pm, Wed–Mon 10.30am–1pm & 4–7pm; closes earlier in

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winter; €4), holds a gallery devoted primarily to modern Italian artists, though it contains some works by foreigners who have been connected with the Spoleto Festival over the years, among them Alexander Calder, the man responsible for the large sculpture by the railway station. Sant’Eufemia and the Museo Diocesano

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Very close to the Palazzo Comunale’s back entrance is the medieval town’s most celebrated church, the eleventh-century Sant’Eufemia (seen with Museo Diocesano – see below), architecturally unique in Umbria for its matronei, higharched galleries above the side-naves that segregated women from the men in the main body of the church. It was built over the site of the eighth-century Lombard ducal palace and appears to have been partly constructed from the remains of this and earlier Roman monuments; one or two of the completely mismatched columns are carved with distinctive Lombard motifs. The general dank solemnity of the place clearly points to an early foundation. Sant’Eufemia is visited in conjunction with the outstanding Museo Diocesano, located in the same courtyard as the church (Mon, Wed & Thurs 11am–1pm & 3–6pm, Tues 11am–1pm, Fri–Sun 11am–6pm; €3). The eight rooms contain several surprisingly good paintings, including a Madonna by Fra’ Filippo Lippi and an early Domenico Beccafumi, a room of old wooden statues and some wonderfully graphic votive panels offering thanks for salvation from a host of vividly illustrated mishaps. The Rocca

To the east of town, the Rocca Albornoziana (Mon 11am–7.30pm, Tues–Sun 8.30am–7.30pm, ticket office closes 45min before; €6 or €7.50 with museum), everyone’s idea of a cartoon castle, with towers, crenellations and sheer walls, was another in the chain of fortresses with which the tireless Cardinal Albornoz hoped to re-establish Church domination in central Italy, a primacy lost during the fourteenth-century papal exile to Avignon. It served until 1982 as a high-security prison – testimony to the skill of its medieval builders – and was home to, among others, Pope John Paul II’s would-be assassin and leading members of the Red Brigade. After years of restoration it now houses the sleek Museo Nazionale del Ducato (Tues–Sun 8.30am–7.30pm; €6 or €7.50 for combined ticket with the Rocca) devoted to the Duchy of Spoleto, with paintings including a couple of big canvases by a follower of Perugino, Lo Spagna, one of several local Renaissance artists represented. Both the museum and fortress are well worth seeing, the Rocca in particular for its superb views, the imposing twin courtyards and the sheer scale of the building. The Ponte delle Torri and San Pietro

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If you do nothing else in Spoleto you should take the short walk out to the Ponte delle Torri, the town’s picture-postcard favourite and an astonishing piece of medieval engineering. It’s best taken in as part of a circular walk around the base of the Rocca or on the longer trek out to San Pietro (see opposite). Within a minute of leaving shady gardens in Piazza Campello you suddenly ﬁnd yourself looking out over superb countryside, with a dramatic panorama across the Tessino gorge and south to the mountains of Castelmonte. There’s an informal little bar, on the left before the bend, where you can enjoy the views. The bridge is a genuinely impressive affair, with a 240-metre span supported by ten eighty-metre arches that have been used as a launching pad by jilted lovers for six centuries. Designed by the Gubbian architect Gattapone, who was also responsible for Gubbio’s Palazzo dei Consoli, it was initially planned as an aqueduct to

Apollinare Via Sant’Agata 14 T 0743.223.256, W www.ristorante apollinare.it. The blue and gold upholstery is initially off-putting, but the medieval setting is good and the welcome friendly. Secondi are around €15, or go for the 3-course “Surprise” tasting menu (€25, or €35 for ﬁve courses) if you want to try something new. Don’t miss the sublime caramella starter – a cheese and trufﬂe delight. Daily noon–3.30pm & 7–11pm, closed Tues in winter. Il Panciolle Largo Muzio Clemente–Via del Duomo 3 T 0743.221.241. Below the hotel of the same name, this is a good choice for a reliable and reasonably priced meal of Umbrian specialities such as stringozzi and ﬁre-grilled meats (secondi €9–17). Also known for its selection of cheeses. Has a great outside terrace – and the medieval interior with open ﬁre is cosy in winter. Tues–Sun 12.30–3pm & 7.30pm–midnight. Il Tempio del Gusto Via Arco del Druso 11 T 0743.47.121. “The Temple of Taste’” was founded by Eros Patrizi, a former pupil of the legendary Vissani, patron of the eponymous restaurant near Baschi, in southern Umbria, that for years has rated as one of Italy’s best. Standards – and the often recherché cooking – are similar, and you’ll be paying around €50 a la carte, or there are €35 tasting menus,

plus cheaper menus at lunch. Fri–Wed noon–4pm & 7–11pm. La Lanterna Via della Trattoria 6 T 0743.49.815. A convivial, central place and the best of the town’s mid-price trattorias, on a side street left off the hill between Piazza della Libertà and Piazza Fontana. It serves huge helpings of delicious pasta for around €6 and grilled meats from €7. Thurs–Tues 12.30–3pm & 7.30–10.30pm. Osteria del Matto Vicolo del Mercato 3 T0743.225.506. The best place for light meals and a glass of wine, a few steps west of Piazza del Mercato. The single room is dark and snug, and the owner very welcoming. Wed–Mon 1–3pm & 7.30–11pm. Osteria del Trivio Via del Trivio 16 T0743.44.349. A little away from the centre, and thus the crowds; nicely rustic, with photographs of the muchtravelled owners and their family on the walls, and Spoletan classics on the menu; reckon on around €25 for a full meal. Wed–Mon 12.30–2.30pm & 7–11pm. Sabatini Corso Mazzini 54 T 0743.221.831. The Upper Town’s smartest spot. It has a lovely interior, with a few outside tables to the rear. Cooking is inventive, though the odd dish can be a touch precious; three courses at around €45, including wine. Tues–Sun 11am–midnight.

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bring water from Monteluco, replacing an earlier Roman causeway whose design Gattapone probably borrowed and enlarged upon. In time it also became used as an escape from the Rocca when Spoleto was under siege. The remains of what used to be a covered passageway connecting the two are still visible straggling down the hillside. It’s well worth crossing the bridge and picking up the footpath, which zigzags up from the left-hand side of the road and then contours left into peaceful countryside within a few hundred metres, giving great views back over the gorge. Alternatively, turn right on the road and make for the church of San Pietro, whose facade beckons from a not-too-distant hillside. If the idea of another church doesn’t appeal you can easily double back to town on the circular Via della Rocca. Though the walk to San Pietro is a longish one (2km), it’s pleasantly shady with some good glimpses of Spoleto, but on the country road (no pavements) beware drivers taking the bends too fast. The church would be undistinguished were it not for the splendid sculptures adorning its facade. Taken with Maitani’s bas-reliefs in Orvieto, they are the best Romanesque carvings in Umbria, partly Lombard in their inspiration, and drawing variously on the Gospels and medieval legend for their complicated narrative and symbolic purpose. A particularly juicy scene to look out for includes the Death of a Sinner (left series, second from the top) where the Archangel Michael abandons the sinner to a couple of demons who bind and torture him before bringing in burning oil to ﬁnish the job. Fourth panel from the top (right series) shows a wolf disguised as a friar before a ﬂeeing ram – a dig at dodgy monastic morals.

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The Valnerina and Norcia

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The VALNERINA is the most beautiful part of Umbria. Strictly translated as the “little valley of the Nera”, it effectively refers to the whole eastern part of the region, a self-contained area of high mountains, poor communications, steep wooded valleys, upland villages and vast stretches of barren nothingness. Wolves still roam the summit ridges and the area is a genuine “forgotten corner”, deserted farms everywhere bearing witness to a century of emigration. The region is best explored with a car, as public transport is limited. The easiest way to get to the region without a car is by bus from Spoleto: ﬁve to seven daily run from Spoleto station to Norcia (1hr 15min). A new road tunnel links Spoleto to the valley, but for scenery stick to the old and tortuous N395 from Spoleto until you hit the “main” SS209 and the more pastoral run up the Nera valley towards Norcia. Mountains nearby are 1500m high, with excellent walking, creeping up as you move east to about 2500m in the Monti Sibillini. It’s difficult to explore with any sort of plan (unless you stick to the Nera), and the best approach is to follow your nose, poking into small valleys, tracing high country lanes to remote hamlets. More deliberately, you could make for Vallo di Nera, the most archetypal of the fortiﬁed villages that pop up along the Lower Nera. Medieval Triponzo is a natural focus of communications, little more than a quaint staging post and fortiﬁed tower (and a better target than modernish Cerreto nearby). Monteleone is the only place of any size for miles, with a ﬁne church, and popular with trippers.

Norcia The very pleasant mountain retreat of NORCIA is the only place of any size or substance in the Valnerina. Noted on the one hand as the birthplace of St Benedict – founder of Western monasticism – and on the other as the producer of Italy’s top salami, it has an air of charming dereliction, and its low, sturdy houses (built to be earthquake-resistant) are a world away from the pastoral, fairy-tale cities to the west. If transport allows, it could be the base for some good trips into neighbouring territory, particularly the famed Piano Grande (see opposite) and the mountains to the east and north. A big new road through the mountains into Le Marche has opened and brought in more visitors – good news for local employment, which is scarce, but a possible challenge to the environment. Hang-gliders and winter-sports enthusiasts have also discovered the area, another mixed blessing. It doesn’t take long to see the town, but you may want to stay on for the pleasant atmosphere and the surrounding scenery. Most of the action is in the central Piazza San Benedetto, site of the Roman forum and presided over by a statue of Benedict. Apart from its facade, you can largely forget about the Duomo – destroyed by several earthquakes (the last big one was in 1979), and patched up to look like nothing on earth. The Castellina is more captivating: a papal fortress full of gaunt medieval echoes, it contains a ﬁne little museum (May–Sept Tues–Sun 10am–1pm & 4–7pm; usually closed Mon & Tues Oct–April; €3) with fascinating old wooden sculptures and several surprisingly accomplished paintings. The fortress makes a strange bedfellow for the labyrinthine church of San Benedetto, which supposedly was built over the saint’s birthplace but was probably raised from the ruins of an earlier Roman temple. Inside there are a few paltry frescoes, nothing more, though the crypt contains the remains of a Roman-era house. Meat-eaters would be daft not to try the deservedly famous local pork products. Anything that can be done to a pig, the Norcians apparently do – and supposedly better than anyone else. Even today, you still see butchers in other parts of Italy called un nurcino, after the town. If ﬁnances stretch, you could also indulge in the area’s prized

black truffle. The season runs from January to April (though you may come across the lesser-prized summer truffles too). Plenty of shops, an attraction in themselves, are on hand to sell you all manner of local specialities, not just truffles, but also hams, the famed lentils of Castelluccio and lots of rare mountain cheeses. Practicalities

The tourist office is inside the Palazzo Comunale on the main Piazza San Benedetto (Mon–Sat 8.30am–2.30pm; T 0743.824.962). In summer there’s also a branch of the Casa del Parco, with information on the Parco Nazionale dei Monti Sibillini, in the same building ( July & Aug daily 9.30am–12.30pm & 3.30–6.30pm). Norcia has always seen lots of pilgrims, in town for Benedict and trips to Assisi and Loreto in Le Marche for the house of the Virgin (see p.602). But these days its accommodation is under pressure from growing numbers of casual visitors, so it makes sense to book rooms well in advance, especially from June to August. You should also book ahead during the truffle festival, between the last weekend in February and the ﬁrst weekend in March. Granaro del Monte Via Alﬁeri 12 T0743.816.513. A medieval dining-room complete with open ﬁre and suits of armour is the setting for a meal at this long-established restaurant, with plenty of trufﬂebased dishes on the menu. Trattoria dei Priori Via dei Priori 3 T0743.816.282. Well-prepared local dishes – such as fettuccine al cinghiale (with wild boar) – are served up in a simple, barrel-vaulted space. Fixed-price menu €22, trufﬂetasting menu €31. Closed Mon. Trattoria del Francese Via Riguardati 16 T0743.816.290. Don’t be fooled by this trattoria’s unassuming appearance: it’s the town’s most lauded restaurant, serving up top-notch local cuisine at very reasonable prices. Not surprisingly, it’s popular with locals, so be sure to book. Closed Fri & 2 weeks in June and Nov. Vespasia Via Cesare Battisti 12 T0743.817.434. Norcia’s smartest hotel, Palazzo Seneca has a suitably tasteful (and pricey) restaurant, serving up elegant versions of the local meaty specialities. The produce is all locally sourced, and the results are delicious.

| The Valnerina and Norcia

Restaurants

Da Benito Via Marconi 4 T0743.816.670, W www.hotelbenito.it. A small, central eight-room hotel; unexceptional, but an alternative to the Grotta Azzurra next door, if that is full. 2 Grotta Azzurra Via Alﬁeri 12 T 0743.816.513, W www.bianconi.com. A rambling three-star with traditional decor and a very good restaurant – the Granaro del Monte (see opposite). 2 Ostello Il Capisterium Via Manzoni 2 T 0743.817.487, W www.ilcapisterium.it. Hostel offering beds (in rooms sleeping two, four, ﬁve and ten), right in the centre of town in a beautiful ex-monastery. Dorms €15. Palazzo Seneca Via Cesare Battisti 12 T0743.817.434, Wwww.palazzoseneca .com. This sixteenth-century residence has recently been restored to create an elegant and supremely comfortable hotel. The rooms are tastefully furnished with antiques and four-poster beds, and the marble bathrooms are wonderfully luxurious. There’s also a spa and gourmet restaurant, Vespasia (see opposite). 5

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Around Norcia – the Piano Grande and Preci The eerie, expansive Piano Grande, 20km east of Norcia, is an extraordinary prairie ringed by bare, whaleback mountains and stretching, uninterrupted by tree, hedge or habitation, for miles and miles. A decade or so ago, it was all but unknown: now, in summer at least, it can be disconcertingly busy. It’s much photographed – especially in spring when it’s ablaze with wild ﬂowers of every description – and was used by Zeffirelli as a setting in his Franciscan ﬁlm Brother Sun, Sister Moon. The desperately isolated village of CASTELLUCCIO hangs above it at around 1400m, and although no longer the sole preserve of shepherds, it remains an unspoilt base and the ideal starting point for any number of straightforward mountain walks. To plan routes, get hold of the 1:50,000 Kompass map no. 666 or the more detailed

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1:25,000 CAI maps (the latter are often available in Norcia or Castelluccio’s bars). There’s no public transport into the area (save for one bus in and out on a Thurs, market day in Norcia), though you might try your luck at catching lifts in high season. Rough camping is generally no problem, and there are a couple of simple hotel-restaurants convenient for the plain and many walks: La Sibilla, in Castelluccio itself (booking advised, T 0743.821.113, W www.sibillacastelluccio.com; April–Oct; 2), has an excellent restaurant with great views. Another worthwhile trip is the road north to PRECI and thus to Visso in Le Marche. Walled and castled Preci was known throughout Europe in the sixteenth century as a school for surgeons, their main trade being removal of kidney stones. However, they had a more notorious sideline – castrating young boys who were foolish enough to show operatic potential. The town has a good place to eat: Il Castoro, Via Roma (T 0743.939.248; mid-Sept to June closed Thurs), which offers pizza or good local food such as boar, trout or chewy stringozzi pasta. Full meals start at about €25. A kilometre above nearby PIEDIVALLE is the beautifully sited Abbey of San Eutizio, one of the cradles of the Benedictine movement. Now only a pretty – if over-restored – twelfth-century Romanesque church stands on the site, but in its day the community of monks held sway over more than a hundred castles and local churches. Above the church you can still see the caves used by the earliest hermits and by Benedict himself, who discovered his vocation while visiting the hermits from Norcia.

Terni and around TERNI was the unlikely birthplace of one of the world’s most famous saints, St Valentine, bishop of the town until his martyrdom in 273 and now entombed in his personal basilica at San Valentino, a village 2km to the southwest. A less romantic city, however, would be hard to imagine. Terni’s important arms and steel industries made it a target for Allied bombing in 1944, and 80 percent of the town was reduced to rubble, including, sadly, the best part of its Roman and medieval heritage. Rebuilding replaced what was lost with a grey grid-iron city straight out of postwar Eastern Europe; it also put the arms industry back on its feet – the gun used to assassinate Kennedy was made here. That said, in recent years the town has managed to distance itself from its nineteenth-century nickname “The Manchester of Italy”: a swathe of industrial wasteland on the outskirts is undergoing recovery, and an abandoned factory just east of the river at Viale Luigi Campofregoso 98 has been transformed into the CAOS complex (W caos.museum), a centre for contemporary art, and also home to an archeological museum, a bookshop and a bar; a theatre is being built on the same site. The tourist office (Mon–Sat 9am–1pm & 3–6pm; T 0744.423.047, W www .marmore.it) is at Via Cassian Bon 2–4 – take Viale della Stazione from the station, and Via Cassian Bon is 400m up, on the right, just beyond Piazza Cornelio Tacito.

Cascate delle Marmore

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The best place to make for locally is the Cascate delle Marmore (train or bus from Terni), created by the Romans in 271 BC when they diverted the River Velino into the Nera during drainage of marshlands to the south. The highest waterfall in Europe (at 165m), it was boosted by the damming of Lago di Piediluco in the 1930s to satisfy the demands of industry for cheap hydroelectric power. Pictures of the falls in full spate adorn most Umbrian tourist offices, but what they neglect to tell you is that the water can be turned off at the ﬂick of a switch (in favour of electric turbines), leaving a none-too-spectacular trickle (see W www.marmore.it or call T 074.462.982

to ﬁnd out running times; entrance €7). Running times vary considerably from year to year, and month to month: summer weekends are usually a good bet, but most main tourist offices in southern Umbria carry details of current times. The observation platforms are below on the SS209 and above in the village of Marmore, with a steep path between the two (plus hourly bus shuttle April–Oct). The green and luxuriant setting, tumbling water and expanses of gleaming polished marble add up to a spectacular show, and there’s plenty of interest for watersports enthusiasts, with canoeing, kayaking and rafting. Contact Rafting Marmore (T 330.753.420, W www .raftingmarmore.com) for information on excursions; from €45 for rafting.

The Abbazia di San Pietro in Valle and around

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| Narni and around

A very worthwhile excursion from Terni (or Spoleto), particularly if you’re making for Norcia and the Valnerina from the south, is the Abbazia di San Pietro in Valle (summer Mon–Fri 3–5pm, Sat & Sun 10am–1pm & 3–5pm; winter open on booking only; T 333.459.7228), 18km from Terni and signposted from Colleponte. Buses make the run up to Triponzo, passing the approach road to the abbey en route. Founded by the Lombard duke Faroaldo II, who retired to monastic life after being deposed by his son in 720, the abbey was among the most powerful religious houses in Umbro-Romano, controlling vast tracts of land and dominating the lives of thousands of people. It’s set high on the hillside near a thickly wooded cleft, the ﬁrst impression being of a dull blockhouse affair, with nothing to hint at the splendour of the Lombard and Byzantine art inside. The faded frescoes (1190) that cover the body of the main church are the ﬁrst tentative attempts to create a distinctively Italian art and move away from the stylized inﬂuence of Byzantine painting, an inﬂuence that nonetheless was to prevail until the advent of Pietro Cavallini, Cimabue and Giotto a century later. The altar, beautifully set off by the rose-coloured stone and rich Romanesque display all around, is a rare and important example of Lombard sculpture, carved with what look like pagan, almost Celtic ﬁgures and motifs. To each side are well-preserved Roman sarcophagi, backed by a profusion of gorgeously coloured frescoes. The complex’s private owners – only the church belongs to the state – have opened a very appealing hotel (T 0744.780.129, W www.sanpietroinvalle.com; 3 ) in part of the abbey. By following the SS209 past the walled, medieval village of SCHEGGINO you can pick up the Spoleto road into the Valnerina, a route covered on p.564. If you have kids in tow, the Activo Park (mid-March to Oct; €9, plus extra for certain activities; T 074.361.8005, W www.activopark.com), signed from Scheggino, is worth seeking out. This adventure complex has activities galore, from climbing walls to abseiling, and from archery to a donkey farm. There’s a restaurant and pizzeria on site, as well as picnic areas. If you need to stay locally, Scheggino’s Albergo-Trattoria del Ponte, Via del Borgo 17 (T 0743.61.253, E [email protected]; 1 ), is the best bet. Even if you’re just passing through, give its excellent restaurant (closed Mon except in Aug, and a period in Nov) a try – the trout dishes with truffles, in particular, are superb.

Narni and around It’s an easy thirty-minute hop on the train from Terni to NARNI, which claims to be the geographical centre of Italy, with a hilltop site jutting into the Nera valley on a majestic spur and crowned by another of Albornoz’s formidable papal fortresses. Commanding one end of a steep gorge (about ten minutes of fairly

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spectacular train travel), it was once the gateway into Umbria, the last post before the Tiber valley and the undefended road to Rome. However, while the town retains a ﬁne medieval character, the views from its heights are marred by steel and chemical works around Narni Scalo, the new town in the valley below. The heart of the old town (10 daily buses from the train station at Narni Scalo, or 2 on Sun) has all the standard ﬁttings: the medieval piazzas, the warren of streets, a modest art gallery, the usual crop of Romanesque churches, and a huge rocca, open for occasional events. There’s a Roman bridge on the outskirts, the subject of considerable local hype. Goethe arrived in Narni in the middle of the night and was peeved not to have seen it; he was only missing a solitary arch in the middle of the river – just as easily viewed from the train. In what’s an appealing but relatively low-key centre, things revolve around the narrow Piazza dei Priori, where pride of place goes to the fourteenth-century Palazzo dei Priori, now council offices, unremarkable except for a fountain and graceful loggia designed by the Gubbian architect Gattapone. The bulk of the town’s paintings and other works of art are housed in the Museo della Città di Narni (Tues–Sun: April–June & Sept 10.30am–1pm & 3.30–6pm; July & Aug 10.30am–1pm & 4.30–7.30pm; Oct–March Fri–Sun & public hols 10.30am–1pm & 3–5.30pm; €5) in the Palazzo Eroli, Via Aurelio Saffi 1. The highlight is a superlative and much-copied Coronation of the Virgin by Ghirlandaio, with a collection of good works by minor medieval Umbrian artists. On the town’s main street, on the other side of Piazza dei Priori, is the tiny and easily overlooked church of Santa Maria in Pensole, unaltered since 1175 and adorned across the width of its facade with a marvellous carved frieze. Some of Narni’s most captivating sights lie beneath the streets, parts of Roman cisterns, eighth-century chapels and more, all of which can be seen on one-hour guided tours led by Narni Sotterranea (April–Sept Sat 3pm & 6pm, Sun 10am, 11.15am, 12.30pm, 3pm, 4.15pm & 5.30pm; Oct–March Sun & hols 11am, noon, 3pm & 6pm; €4; T 0744.722.292, W www.narnisotterranea.it), at Via San Bernardo 12. The tourist office is at Piazza dei Priori 3 (Mon–Fri 9.30am–12.30pm & 4.30–7pm, Sat 9.30am–12.30pm, Sun 10am–noon & 5–7pm; T 0744.715.362). There’s no real reason to stay overnight in Narni, but should you want to your best bet would be the central Dei Priori, Vicolo del Comune 4 (T 0744.726.843, W www.loggiadeipriori.it; 2 ), just off Piazza dei Priori, which offers ﬁrst-class meals at the lovely La Loggia restaurant, with mains for €7–18.

Amelia

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AMELIA, 11km northwest of Narni and plonked on top of a sugar-loaf hilltop, is the most tempting local excursion. Though not big on monuments, it’s charming and unvisited, noted mainly for its extraordinary cyclopean walls, claimed as some of the oldest and mightiest in Italy. Supported by their own weight and comprising vast polygonal blocks up to 7m across, they reach a height of over 20m in places and date back to the Umbrian settlement of the eleventh century BC. The best of the town’s archeological artefacts are collected in the Museo Archeologico, Piazza Augusto Vera 10 (April–June & Sept Tues–Sun 10.30am–1pm & 3.30–6pm; July & Aug Tues–Sun 10.30am–1pm & 4.30–7.30pm; Oct–March Fri– Sun 10.30am–1pm & 3.30–6pm; €5), most notably a superb bronze of the Roman general Germanicus, found locally in 1963. If you’re in town at the weekend, be sure to explore the Roman cisterns under Piazza Matteotti ( June–Sept Sat 4.30–7.30pm, Sun 10.30am–12.30pm & 4.30–7.30pm; Oct–March Sat 3–6pm, Sun 10.30am–12.30pm & 3–6pm; €3; regular guided tours; call T 0744.978.436 or see W www.ameliasotterranea.it).

Most of the town’s churches were ruined in the nineteenth century – San Giacomo’s double cloister and a tomb by Agostino di Duccio are the only highlights – but Amelia’s charm is the typically Umbrian mixture of good views, medieval streets and lovely countryside close at hand. The drive on to Orvieto along the back roads is a treat: plenty of oak forests and ﬁne walks, and the chance to catch one of Umbria’s Romanesque highlights, the twelfth-century church of Santa Maria Assunata at Lugnano in Teverina.

Todi TODI is one of the best-known Umbrian hill-towns, at heart still a thriving and insular agricultural centre, but also a favoured trendy retreat for foreign expats and Rome’s arts and media types. In the way of these things the visitors haven’t been far behind, but neither fact should deter you from making a day-trip: few places beat it for sheer location – its hilltop position is stunning – and fairy-tale medievalism.

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Getting there by public transport and sussing out how to ﬁt it into an itinerary are likely to be your biggest problems. Basically you come either from Terni on the hourly FCU train or from Perugia, again by FCU, or on one of the regular buses that stop below the town by the church of Santa Maria della Consolazione or higher up, just off the main square near San Fortunato. Moving on, in addition to the train, you have the option of a daily bus to Orvieto. Todi’s train station, Pone Rio, is in the middle of nowhere; bus #C runs to the centre roughly hourly. If you want to book a taxi, call T 075.894.2375, 075.894.2525 or 0347.774.8321. The tourist office, in the southeast corner of Piazza del Popolo at no. 36 (Tues–Sun 10am–1.30pm & 3–6pm; T 075.894.5416, W www.comune.todi.pg.it), has details on the many festivals and events held here throughout the year, including the increasingly popular Todi Festival (ﬁrst eight days of Sept; W www.todiartefestival.com).

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Arrival and information

Accommodation Hotels are in demand, especially during the Todi Festival. Entropia Country House Via Loreto Grutti 6 T 075.885.2249, W www.progetto entropia.it. Set in a nineteenth-century farmhouse surrounded by parkland just 6km from Todi, this agriturismo makes a wonderful retreat, with cosily furnished rooms and welcoming staff. There’s a swimming pool and a very good restaurant too. 3 Fonte Cesia Via Lorenzo Leoni 3 T075.894.3737, Wwww.fontecesia.it. Wonderful converted medieval townhouse at the heart of the historic core. Rooms vary in size and decoration, but all have period details, rich fabrics and up-to-the-minute facilities. 5 San Lorenzo Tre Via San Lorenzo 3 T 075.894.4555, W www.sanlorenzo3.it.

If you don’t mind lugging your suitcase up steep ﬂights of steps, this elegantly furnished residenza inside a townhouse in the street parallel to Via del Duomo is Todi’s best bargain. Rooms vary in size (and in price); no. 5 is the nicest, beautifully furnished with antiques, and with stunning views of the surrounding countryside. 2 –3 Tuder Via Maestà dei Lombardi 13 T075.894.2184, Wwww.hoteltuder.com. This three-star is in an uninspiring modern, built-up district, a 10min walk from Porta Romana, but its 36 rooms have been decorated with care, and there’s an on-site restaurant too. 2

The Town The central Piazza del Popolo is widely held to be among the most perfect medieval piazzas in Italy. The Duomo (summer: Mon–Sat 8am–1pm & 3–6.30pm, Sun

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8.30am–1pm & 3–7pm; winter Mon–Sat 8am–1pm & 1.30–5pm, Sun 8.30am–1pm & 3–6pm; church free, museum €1) at the far (northern) end, atop a broad ﬂight of steps, is the main feature – a meeting point of the last of the Romanesque and the ﬁrst of the Gothic forms ﬁltering up from France in the early fourteenth century. The square, three-tiered facade is inspired simplicity; just a sumptuous rose window (1520) and ornately carved doorway to embellish the pinky weathered marble – the classic example of a form found all over Umbria. Inevitably the interior is less impressive. There’s some delicate nineteenth-century stained glass in the arched nave on the right, and a good altarpiece by Giannicola di Paolo (a follower of Perugino), while a poor sixteenth-century Last Judgement, loosely derived from Michelangelo’s, defaces the back wall. The strikingly carved choir (1530) – of incredible delicacy and precision – is the region’s best, with panels at ﬂoor level near the front depicting the tools used to carve the piece. The crypt and small museum contains a rambling collection of ancient Roman – and possibly Etruscan – fragments and religious ephemera. Back in the piazza, the other key buildings are the three public palaces, squared off near the Duomo in deliberately provocative fashion as an expression of medieval civic pride – deﬁnitely trying to put one over on the Church. The adjoining Palazzo del Capitano (1290) and adjacent Palazzo del Popolo (begun 1213) are most prominent, thanks mainly to the stone staircase that looks like the setting for a thousand B-movie sword ﬁghts. The Palazzo del Capitano houses a superb museum, the Museo-Pinacoteca di Todi (Tues–Sun: April–Oct 10am–1.30pm & 3–6pm; Nov–March 10.30am–1pm & 2.30–5pm; €5, or €7.50 for a combined ticket with the Cisterne Romane & Campanile di San Fortunato), which brilliantly weaves an open-plan sequence of rooms into the existing medieval structure. The ﬁrst section of the museum delves into Todi’s history, followed by rooms devoted to archeology, coins and medallions, fabrics, ceramics and a picture gallery. In many cases the rooms are more alluring than their displays – particularly the lovely frescoed salon devoted to ceramics – but numerous individual exhibits merit a closer look, none more so than the museum’s star painting: the sumptuous Coronation of the Virgin (1507) by Lo Spagna. The Palazzo dei Priori (1293–1337) is the southernmost building in the square, with all the various crenellations, battlements and mullioned windows of the other palaces but with the difference that they’ve been recently restored. It’s been the seat of all the town’s various rulers and today is still the town hall; if you can look as if you’re on council business you should be able to peep inside. The best place to enjoy the streetlife is from the bar down on its right-hand side, more of a locals’ local than the ﬂashy place halfway down the piazza (but which does do a good line in sandwiches). Close to this latter bar, a small side-street leads off the west side of the piazza to the Cisterne Romane (April–Oct Tues–Sun 10am–1.30pm & 3–6pm; Nov–March Sat & Sun 10.30am–1pm & 2.30–5pm; €2, or €7.50 combined ticket with Museo della Città & Campanile di San Fortunato), a massive Roman cistern, which offers a graphic illustration of the Romans’ prodigious engineering abilities. The Tempio di San Fortunato

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Streets to the right of the Duomo are quiet and dozy and worth a wander, though the single most celebrated sight in town after the piazza is the Tempio di San Fortunato (Tues–Sun: April to mid-Oct 9am–1pm & 3–7pm; mid-Oct to March 10am–1pm & 2.30–5pm; free), set above gardens a very short stroll from the centre. It’s an enormous thing given the size of the town – testimony to Todi’s medieval wealth and importance. The squat, messy and clearly unﬁnished facade, an amalgam of Romanesque and Gothic styles, reﬂects the time it took to build (1292–1462) and at ﬁrst glance doesn’t exactly raise expectations. A ﬂorid Gothic doorway of arched swirls and carved craziness, however, is the ﬁrst of several surprises, second of which

is the enormous light, airy interior, recently highlighted by cleaning and several dazzling coats of whitewash. It marks the pinnacle of the Umbrian tradition for large vaulted churches, a style based on the smaller and basic “barn churches” common in Tuscany, which were distinguished by a single, low-pitched roof and naves and aisles of equal height. (San Domenico in Perugia, p.535, is another example.) It also marks a trend for side-chapels, a habit picked up from Catalonia and southern France in the thirteenth century and made necessary by the rising demand for daily Masses as the Franciscans became a more ministering order. There’s another good choir, heavier and with more hints of the Baroque than the one in the Duomo, as well as a few scant patches of Sienese fresco. The fresco by Masolino di Panicale in the fourth chapel on the right is a good example of this painter’s rare work, though a bit battered. Some lovely cloisters to the rear (outside and to the right) round off a distinctive and worthwhile church. Climb the campanile (Tues–Sun: April–Oct 10am–1pm & 3–6.30pm; Nov–March 10.30am–1pm & 2.30–5pm; €2, or €7.50 combined ticket with Museo della Città & Cisterne Romane) for sweeping views over the town and surrounding countryside.

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The stony track to the right of San Fortunato leads to the rambling Giardino Pubblico, an ideal place for a siesta. Full of shady nooks and narrow pathways, it’s a cut above the normal town plot. There’s also a kids’ playground and a very small Rocca, both less noteworthy than the views, which are extensive though usually hazy. A ten-minute walk west, Santa Maria della Consolazione (Wed–Mon: April–Oct 9am–12.30pm & 2.30–6.30pm; Nov–March 9.30am–12.30pm & 2.30–5pm), completed in 1607, was called the best Renaissance church in Italy by Victorian writers (pretty close to saying the best in the world). It’s thought to have been based on an earlier Bramante draft for St Peter’s in Rome; the alternating window types in the cupola are a Bramante trademark.

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Eating and drinking Cavour Corso Cavour 21 T075.894.3730. This unpretentious trattoria has stunning views from its outdoor terrace and several cosy rooms indoors. You can eat very well for €30, or more cheaply if you go for one of the generous pizzas (from €4.50). Daily noon–4pm & 7pm–2am; closed Thurs in winter. Pane e Vino Via Ciuffelli 33 T075.894.5448. Just off the main square, this place is perfect for simple lunches and suppers (from €30 for three courses): there’s a tremendous choice of antipasti. Try the house special: a sharing platter including smoked duck breast carpaccio and cheeses served with honey (€15). Thurs–Tues 12.30–2.30pm & 5.30–8pm.

Pizzeria Italo Piazza B. d’Alviano, off Corso Cavour T075.894.2645. This basic pizzeria has pizzas from €4, plus a full menu of antipasti, and has plenty of outdoor seating right next to the lovely Fonte Cesia fountain. Tues–Sun noon–2.30pm & 7.15–11pm. Umbria Via San Bonaventura T075.894.2737. The town’s best-known restaurant. Prices are higher than average (mains around €14), but the panorama from the terrace makes it worthwhile; in season, book to be sure of an outside table. Wed–Mon 12.30–2.30pm & 7.30–10.30pm.

Orvieto Out on a limb from the rest of Umbria, ORVIETO is perfectly placed between Rome and Florence to serve as a historical picnic for tour operators. Visitors ﬂood into the town in their millions, drawn by the Duomo, one of the greatest Gothic buildings in Italy. However, once its facade and Signorelli’s frescoes have been admired, the town’s not quite as exciting as guides and word of mouth make out.

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This is partly to do with the gloominess of the dark volcanic rock (tuff) from which it’s built, and, more poetically, because it harbours something of the characteristic brooding atmosphere of Etruscan towns (it was one of the twelve-strong federation of Etruscan cities). Two thousand years on, it’s not difficult to detect a more laidback atmosphere in the cities east of the Tiber – founded by the Umbrians, a sunnier and easier-going people. All the same Orvieto is likeable, the setting superb, the Duomo unmissable, and the rest of the town good for a couple of hours’ visit. And you could always indulge in its renowned white wine if you’re stuck with time on your hands.

Arrival and information

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Without a doubt, the best approach is by car through the hills to the southwest (from Bolsena, see p.691). If you arrive by train, take the restored nineteenth-century funicular (every 10–15min; €1; tickets from the funicular ticket office or station newsagent or bar, valid for 70min on city buses) from the station forecourt to Piazza Cahen: it’s a pleasant walk along Corso Cavour to the centre of town (5–10min), or you can take the regular minibus #A that stops in Piazza Cahen every ten minutes for the run to Piazza del Duomo; bus #B stops in Piazza della Repubblica before dropping off in Piazza del Duomo. Buses replace the funicular from 8.30pm till midnight. Inter-town buses take you directly to Piazza Cahen, Piazza XXIX Marzo, or Piazza della Repubblica, depending on the service. You can park at the Campo della Fiera car park, beneath the walls at the southwest corner of town; escalators run up to the centre from here. The tourist office is at Piazza del Duomo 24 (Mon–Fri 8.15am–2pm & 4–7pm, Sat & Sun 10am–7pm & 3–6pm; T 0763.341.772, W www.comune.orvieto.tr.it). Ask here for information on events, including Umbria Jazz Winter: ﬁve days of marching bands and jazz performances over New Year. A second, summer-only tourist office is on Piazza Cahen, right next to the funicular (April–Sept daily 10am–6pm; T 0763.340.168). Check your email at Caffè Montanucci, Corso Cavour 19–23 (daily 7am–midnight; €5/hr).

Accommodation Most of the town’s budget rooms – and nightlife – are in Orvieto Scalo, the unlovely district around the station, but this is very much a last resort; the hotels below are all in the upper old town. Hotels Corso Corso Cavour 343 T0763.342.020, W www.hotelcorso.net. A little way from the centre,

and therefore relatively quiet, but still within easy walking distance of everything, with cosily decorated rooms. Breakfast is extra. 2

Carta Orvieto Unica

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If you plan to visit all Orvieto’s main sights, it would be worth buying the Carta Orvieto Unica. Costing €18, it provides admission to the Signorelli frescoes in the cathedral (Cappella di San Brizio), tours of the caves and tunnels beneath the town (see box, p.575), the Museo Claudio Faina, Torre del Moro, Museo Emilio Greco, Museo Archeologico Nazionale, Etruscan tombs and the Pozzo di San Patrizio. It also allows you one trip on the funicular and one bus journey, or ﬁve hours’ worth of parking at the Campo della Fiera car park. The ticket can be bought at the tourist ofﬁce, the Piazza della Pace funicular car park, the Etruscan tombs, the Museo dell’Opera del Duomo or the Pozzo di San Patrizio.

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Train Station, Orvieto Scalo & Campsite

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Duomo Via Vicolo di Maurizio 7 T 0763.341.887, W www.orvietohotelduomo.com. This eighteenroom three-star in a restructured medieval building has dated but comfortable rooms. It’s extremely central and convenient for the Duomo, less than 1min walk away, and there’s a garden too. The three rooms in the annexe 50m down the road are cheaper. 3 Garibaldi Vicolo dei Lattanzi 2 T 0763.343.643 or 339.812.7911, Wwww.vacanzetrusche.it. This B&B has large, spotless rooms and a helpful host who serves up a generous breakfast. There’s parking too. 2 Ripa Medici Vicolo Ripa Medici 14 T 0763.341.343, W www.ripamedici.it.

This B&B’s two bright, airy doubles have been decorated with real attention to detail by friendly owner Sabrina, and there are lovely views and a kitchen for guests’ use too. 2 Valentino Via Angelo da Orvieto 30–32 T0743.342.464, [email protected]. A slightly faded three-star on a quiet side-street with nineteen rooms a 5min walk from the Duomo. 2

Campsite Scacco Matto 10km away on the SS448 near Lago di Corbora T0744.950.163, Wwww .scaccomatto.net (bus to Baschi/Civitella). Orvieto’s nearest campsite is a one-star job that is open from March to Oct.

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First impressions of Orvieto from afar tend to be the ones that linger; its position is almost as remarkable and famous as its cathedral. The town, rising 300m sheer from the valley ﬂoor, sits on a tabletop plug of volcanic lava, one of four such remnants in the vicinity. It starts to look fairly average again from the dismal town around the train station, but hit the twisting three-kilometre road up to the old centre and you begin to get a sense of its drama and one-off weirdness. Orvieto’s old centre is compact and walkable: all of the main sights are within a twentyminute stroll of the Duomo. The Duomo

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Burckhardt described Orvieto’s Duomo as “the greatest and richest polychrome monument in the world”, while Pope Leo XIII called it “the Golden Lily of Italian cathedrals”, adding that on the Day of Judgement it would ﬂoat up to heaven carried by its own beauty. According to a tradition fostered by the Church, it was built to celebrate the so-called Miracle of Bolsena (1263), involving a Bohemian priest who was travelling to Rome to shake off a heretical disbelief in transubstantiation – the idea that the body and blood of Christ are physically present in the Eucharist. While he celebrated Mass in a church near Lago di Bolsena, blood started to drip from the host onto the corporale, the cloth underneath the chalice on the altar. The stained linen was whisked off to Pope Urban IV, who like many a pope was in Orvieto to escape the heat and political hassle of Rome. He immediately proclaimed a miracle, and a year later Thomas Aquinas, no less, drew up a papal bull instigating the feast of Corpus Domini. The Church at the time, however, was in retreat, and the Umbrian towns were at the height of their civic expansion. It’s likely that the building of an awe-inspiring cathedral in one of the region’s most powerful comuni was less an act to commemorate a miracle than a shrewd piece of political opportunism designed to remind errant citizens of the papacy’s power. It was miraculous that the Duomo was built at all. Medieval Orvieto was so violent that at times the population thought about giving up on it altogether. Dante wrote that its family feuds were worse than those between Verona’s Montagues and Capulets – the original inspiration for Romeo and Juliet. The building was also dogged by a committee approach to design – even the plans took thirty years to draw up. Yet though construction dragged on for three centuries and exhausted 33 architects, 152 sculptors, 68 painters and 90 mosaicists, the ﬁnal product is a surprisingly uniﬁed example of the transitional Romanesque-Gothic style. Credit for

guiding the work at its most important stage goes to the Sienese architect Lorenzo Maitani (c.1270–1330), with the initial plans probably drawn up by Arnolfo di Cambio, architect of Florence’s Palazzo Vecchio. The facade

The inside (daily: April–Oct 9.30am–7.30pm; Nov–March 9.30am–1.30pm & 2.30–5.30pm; €2, €3 including Cappella di San Brizio, €5 including Museo dell’Opera del Duomo and Sant’Agostino) is a disappointment at least at ﬁrst glance, as if the facade either took all the enthusiasm or all the money and the church was tacked on merely to prop everything else up. Adorned with alternating stripes of coloured marble similar to those found in the cathedrals of Siena, Florence and Pisa, it’s mainly distinguished by Luca Signorelli’s fresco cycle, The Last Judgement (1499–1504), in the Cappella di San Brizio at the end of the south nave (same hours, except Sun: April–June 1–5.30pm, July–Oct 1–6.30pm, Nov– March 2.30–5.30pm). Some claim it surpasses even Michelangelo’s similar cycle in the Sistine Chapel, painted forty years later and obviously heavily inﬂuenced by Signorelli’s earlier treatment. Several painters, including Perugino and Fra’ Angelico (who completed two ceiling panels), tackled the chapel before Signorelli – a free-thinking and singular artist from nearby Cortona – was commissioned to ﬁnish it off. All but the lower walls are crowded with the movement of passionate and beautifully observed muscular ﬁgures, creating an effect that’s realistic and almost grotesquely fantastic at the same time. There are plenty of bizarre details to hold the narrative interest. A mass of monstrous lechery and naked writhing ﬂesh ﬁlls the Inferno panel, including that of the painter’s unfaithful mistress, immortalized in hell for all to see. In another an unfortunate is having his ear bitten off by a green-buttocked demon. Signorelli, suitably clad in

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The interior

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The facade is the star turn, owing its undeniable impact to a decorative richness just the right side of overkill. It’s a riot of columns, spires, bas-reliefs, sculptures, dazzling and almost overpowering use of colour, colossally emphasized doorways and hundreds of capricious details just about held together by four enormous ﬂuted columns. Stunning from the dwarfed piazza, particularly at sunset or under ﬂoodlights, it’s not all superﬁcial gloss. The four pillars at the base, one of the highlights of fourteenth-century Italian sculpture, are well worth a close look. The work of Maitani and his pupils, they describe episodes from the Old and New Testaments in staggering detail: lashings of plague, famine, martyrdoms, grotesque mutilation, mad and emaciated ﬁgures, the Flagellation, the Massacre of the Innocents, strange visitations, Cain slaying Abel (particularly juicy), and only the occasional touch of light relief. In its day it was there to point an accusing ﬁnger at Orvieto’s moral slackers, as the none-too-cheerful ﬁnal panel makes clear, with the damned packed off to ﬁre, brimstone and eternal misery.

Orvieto Underground The fascinating Orvieto Underground tours explore the vast labyrinth of tunnels, caves and store rooms that riddle the soft volcanic rock on which Orvieto is built: most date back to medieval times, some to the Etruscan era. The ticket ofﬁce is next to the tourist ofﬁce at Piazza del Duomo 23. Tours leave daily (except Feb, when they run at weekends only) at 11am, 12.15pm, 4pm and 5.15pm (€5.50) and last about an hour. Call T0763.344.891 or 0339.733.2764, or see Wwww.orvietounderground.it for details and bookings.

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black, has painted himself with Fra’ Angelico in the lower left corner of The Sermon of the Antichrist, both calmly looking on as someone is garrotted at their feet. All this overshadows the twin Cappella del Corporale, which contains the sacred corporale itself, locked away in a massive, jewel-encrusted casket (designed as a deliberate copy of the facade), plus some appealing frescoes by local fourteenthcentury painter Ugolino di Prete, describing events connected with the Miracle of Bolsena. The entire apse is covered in more frescoes by Ugolino, many of which were partly restored by Pinturicchio, who was eventually kicked off the job for “consuming too much gold, too much azure and too much wine”. Also worth a mention are an easily missed Madonna and Child by Gentile da Fabriano and a beautifully delicate ﬁfteenth-century font, both near the main doors. The Museo dell’Opera del Duomo and Museo Faina

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Next to the Duomo on the right as you look at it is the Museo dell’Opera del Duomo (March & Oct Wed–Mon 9.30am–1pm & 2–6pm; April–Sept daily 9.30am–7pm; Nov–Feb Wed–Mon 9.30am–1pm & 3–5pm; €5, includes admission to Signorelli frescoes in the Duomo & church of Sant’Agostino). Highlights are paintings by Martini and Pastura (an artist from Viterbo inﬂuenced by Perugino), several important thirteenth-century sculptures by Arnolfo di Cambio and Andrea Pisano, and a lovely font ﬁlled with Escher-like carved ﬁshes. The Emilio Greco section of the museum (same hours and ticket, or Orvieto Unica card – see box, p.572) comprises nearly a hundred works donated to the city by the artist who created the Duomo’s bronze doors in the 1960s – peek through the door beyond the ground-ﬂoor ticket office and you’ll see enough of the exhibits to know if you want a closer look. Around the corner is the Museo Archeologico (daily 8.30am–7.30pm; €3, €5 with Etruscan tombs), containing a hotch-potch of local ﬁnds. You’re better off at the wonderfully restored Museo Claudio Faina (incorporating the Museo Civico) opposite the Duomo (March & Oct daily 10am–5pm; April–Sept daily 9.30am–6pm; Nov–Feb Tues–Sun 10am–5pm; €4.50), which has a superbly displayed collection of vases and fragments excavated from local tombs (it also offers some great views of the cathedral facade). These sixth-century-BC tombs (daily: summer 8.30am–7pm; winter 8.30am–5pm; €3, €5 joint ticket with Museo Archeologico) are still visible just off the road which drops towards the station from Piazza Cahen and are worth tracking down for their rows of massive and sombre stone graves. The rest of the town

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As far as the town’s churches go, they all naturally pale beside the Duomo, though most have something worthwhile to see. The tiny Romanesque San Lorenzo di Arari (daily 8.30am–1pm & 3–6pm) was built in 1291 on the site of a church destroyed by monks from nearby San Francesco because the sound of its bells got on their nerves. Four frescoes on the left of the nave depict typically traumatic scenes from the life of St Lawrence. There’s also an Etruscan sacriﬁcial slab, which rather oddly serves as the Christian altar (arari meaning “altar”). From Piazzale Cacciatore there’s a decent walk around the city’s southern walls (Via Ripa Medici) with views over to a prominent outcrop of rock in the middle distance, part of the old volcanic crater. Ten minutes or so brings you to San Giovenale (daily 8.30am–1pm & 3–6pm), whose rustic surroundings, on the very western tip of the rupa, Orvieto’s volcanic plateau, are a far cry from the bustle of the Duomo. It’s not much to look at from the outside, but the musty medieval interior is the best (and oldest) in the town. The thirteenth-century Gothic transept, with its two pointed arches, rather oddly stands a metre above the rounded Romanesque nave, making for

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| Orvieto

a hybrid and distinctive church, all of it exhaustively decorated with thirteenth- and ﬁfteenth-century frescoes. Check out the Tree of Life fresco right of the main door and the macabre Calendar of Funeral Anniversaries partly covered by the side entrance. From the church back to the centre of town Via Malabranca and Via Filippeschi are the best of the medieval streets, all tantalizing doorways and tiled roofs, but second-rate by the standards of neighbouring hill-towns. For an overview, climb the Torre del Moro, a medieval tower at Corso Cavour 87 (daily: March, April, Sept & Oct 10am–7pm; May–Aug 10am–8pm; Nov–Feb 10.30am–4.30pm; €2.80). The central Sant’Andrea on Piazza della Repubblica is worth a mention, more for its strange twelve-sided campanile than the bits and pieces of the Roman and Etruscan city in the crypt. In the Piazza del Popolo, further up Corso Cavour (the town’s pedestrianized main drag), there’s a daily fruit and veg market plus the odd craft stall – in front of the impressive Palazzo del Popolo, now a conference centre. The Pozzo di San Patrizio (daily: March, April, Sept & Oct 9am–6.45pm; May–Aug 9am–7.45pm; Nov–Feb 10am–4.45pm; €4.50 or €5.50 with the Emilio Greco museum), just off Piazzale Cahen, is the town’s novelty act, a huge cylindrical well commissioned in 1527 by Pope Clement VII to guarantee the town’s water supply during an expected siege by the Imperial Army (which never came). Water was brought to the surface by donkeys on two broad staircases, cannily designed never to intersect. It’s a striking piece of engineering, 13m wide and 62m deep, named after its supposed similarity to the Irish cave where St Patrick died in 493, aged 133. Another well, the Pozzo della Cava, on the western side of town at Via della Cava 28 (Tues–Sun 9am–8pm, closed second half of Jan; €3, or €2 if you have a ticket to the Pozzo di San Patrizio), was discovered in 1984 but only made fully accessible in 2004. You can explore the fascinating complex of nine caves, complete with archeological ﬁnds, on your own, or take one of the thematic guided tours (see W www.pozzodellacava.it for details).

Eating and drinking There are plenty of places to eat in Orvieto, though nowhere that stands out gastronomically. For a tourist town, though, many restaurants offer very good value and tasty Umbrian food. Restaurants are grouped together at the bottom (eastern end) of Corso Cavour. The wine bars around the Duomo are an expensive way of sampling the well-known Orvietan white. Cafés and restaurants Al San Francesco Via Bonaventura Cerretti 10. Deservedly popular for its excellent value and variety; a 450-seat canteen affair, with shady outdoor tables, offering a choice between restaurant and self-service pizzeria. Daily 12.30–3pm & 7.30–10pm. Antica Cantina Piazza Monaldeschi 18–19 T 0763.344.746. Popular with locals, reasonably priced (€15 will buy a good, light meal) and succeeds in reproducing the old-fashioned trattoria atmosphere and simple, but well-cooked staples. Daily noon–4pm & 7–11pm; closed Fri in winter. Etrusca Via Maitani 10 T 0763.344.016. A traditional and relaxed trattoria that takes its cooking seriously, with classic Umbrian dishes (secondi around €12) and an attractive, medieval vaulted dining-room. Check out the ancient wine cellars,

carved from the solid rock. Daily noon–3pm & 7.15–10pm. Gelateria Pasqualetti Piazza del Duomo 14. This ivy-covered gelateria in the main piazza is the town’s best spot for ice cream. There’s a second branch at Corso Cavour 56, open year-round. Daily 11.30am–midnight; closed Nov–March. La Grotta Via Signorelli 5 T 0763.341.348. Small, reliable trattoria that has been in business for over ﬁfty years and is good value for central Orvieto (€25 and up for a meal); the staff are friendly too. Wed–Mon noon–3pm & 7–10pm. Volpe e L’Uva Via Ripa Corsica 1 T0763.341.612. Tucked away off Via della Pace north of Piazza del Popolo, this is a wonderful mid-priced trattoria offering excellent Orvietan specialities, as well as vegetarian and gluten-free options. Wed–Sun 12.45–2.30pm & 7.45–11pm.

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Travel details Trains

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| Travel details 578

Assisi to: Foligno (13 daily; 15min); Spello (17 daily; 9min); Terontola (12 daily; connections to Chiusi, Orvieto, Arezzo, Florence and Rome; 1hr 10min). Castiglione del Lago to: Florence (11 daily; 1hr 50min); Rome (9 daily; 2hr 5min). Città di Castello to: Perugia (12 daily; 1hr 20min); Sansepolcro (10 daily; 20min). Foligno to: Ancona (14 daily; 1hr 5min–2hr 20min); Fossato di Vico (for Gubbio, 10 daily; 30–45min); Gualdo Tadino (8–11 daily; 40min); Narni (10 daily; 55min–1hr 10min); Passignano (13 daily; 1hr 15min); Rome (15 daily; 1hr 30min–2hr 10min); Spello (hourly; 5min); Terontola (14 daily; connections for Chiusi, Orvieto, Arezzo, Florence and Rome; 1hr 40min); Trevi (13 daily; 5min). Orvieto to: Arezzo (12 daily; 45min–1hr 40min); Chiusi (hourly; 40min; connections to Siena, 1hr 45min–2hr 30min); Florence (17 daily; 1hr 30min–2hr 45min); Orte (17 daily; connections to Narni, Terni, Spoleto and Foligno; 35min); Rome (19 daily; 1hr 20min); Terontola (13 daily; connections to Perugia; 40min–1hr 15min). Perugia to: Assisi (13 daily; 30min); Città di Castello (16 daily; 1hr 30min); Florence (8 daily; 2hr 15min); Foligno (13 daily; 45min); Sansepolcro (16 daily; 1hr 30min); Spello (18 daily; 30min); Terni (9 daily; 1hr 40min); Terontola (16 daily; 40min); Todi (10 daily; 1hr). Spoleto to: Arezzo (12 daily; 2hr 10min–3hr 10min); Florence direct (1 daily; 2hr 50min); Foligno via Trevi (14 daily; connections for Assisi, Spello, Perugia, Terontola and Florence; 20min); Fossato di Vico (8 daily; 50min–1hr 15min); Narni (9 daily; 30–40min); Perugia direct (7 daily; 55min–1hr 15min); Rome (14 daily; 1hr 20min–1hr 45min); Terni (17 daily; 25min). Terni to: Città di Castello (FCU line 6 daily; 2hr 20min–4hr 50min); Foligno (every 30min–1hr; connections to Spello, Assisi, Gualdo Tadino, Fossato di Vico and Perugia; 35–50min); Narni (9 daily; 7min); Orte (11 daily; connections to Rome, Orvieto, Chiusi, Arezzo and Florence; 15–30min); Perugia (FCU line; 7 daily; connections at FCU Sant’Anna station in Perugia for Città di Castello and Sansepolcro, shared FCU and FS/Trenitalia station at Ponte San Giovanni for connections to Foligno and Terontola; 1hr 30min); Sansepolcro (FCU line; 10–16 daily via Perugia Sant’Anna; 2hr 40min–4hr 30min); Todi (FCU line; 7 daily; 45min).

Buses Assisi to: Florence (2 weekly Mon & Fri; 2hr 30min); Montefalco (from Santa Maria degli Angeli; 1 daily Mon–Sat; 40min); Naples (1 daily; 5hr 15min); Norcia and the Valnerina (from Santa Maria degli Angeli; 1 daily Mon–Sat; 2hr 10min); Rome (2 daily; 3hr 10min); Siena (from Santa Maria degli Angeli; 1–2 daily; 2hr 5min); Spello (2–5 daily Mon–Sat; 30min). Bevagna to: Foligno (4 daily Mon–Sat; 20min); Montefalco (12 daily; 35min). Foligno to: Assisi (4 daily Mon–Sat; 45min); Montefalco (7 daily Mon–Sat; 45min); Norcia (1 daily Mon–Sat; 1hr 35min); Perugia (4 daily; 1hr 10min); Rome (2–3 daily; 1hr 35min); Spello (4 daily; 15min); Spoleto (5–7 daily; 40min); Trevi (8 daily Mon–Sat; 35min). Gubbio to: Città di Castello (change at Umbertide; 4 daily Mon–Sat; 1hr 10min); Rome (1 daily; 2hr 40min); Urbino (1 daily; 1hr 30min). Montefalco to: Bevagna (2 daily Mon–Sat; 15min). Narni to: Amelia (4 daily; 15min); Terni (11 daily; 30min). Norcia to: Castelluccio (1 daily Thurs only; 50min); Rome (2 daily Mon–Sat, 1 on Sun; 3hr); Terni (1 daily; 1hr). Orvieto to: Amelia (6 daily Mon–Sat; 1hr 15min); Bolsena (2 daily Mon–Sat; 50min); Narni (6 daily Mon–Sat; 40min); Todi (1 daily Mon–Sat; 1hr 30min). Perugia to: Ascoli Piceno (1–4 daily; 3hr); Assisi (7 daily; 50min–1hr 20min); Castiglione del Lago (9 daily Mon–Sat; 1hr 20min); Chiusi (3 daily Mon–Sat; 1hr 35min); Florence (1 daily; 2hr–2hr 30min); Foligno (4 daily; 1hr 10min); Gubbio (10 daily; 1hr 10min); Milan (3 weekly; 6hr 50min); Norcia (1 daily; 2hr 50min); Orvieto (2 daily; 2hr 25min); Passignano (6 daily Mon–Sat; 1hr 15min); Rome (5 daily; 2hr 30min); Rome Fiumicino airport (1–3 daily; 3hr); Siena (3–7 daily; 1hr 30min); Spello (4 daily Mon–Sat; 55min); Spoleto (1–2 daily; 1hr 30min); Todi (6–8 daily; 1hr 15min). Spoleto to: Foligno (Mon–Sat 4–5 daily; 40min); Fonti del Clitunno (8 daily; 20min); Montefalco (3–4 daily Mon–Sat; 50min); Norcia (5–6 daily; 55min); Rome (1 daily; 2hr 20min); Scheggino (5 daily; 1hr 10min); Terni (6 daily; 45min); Trevi (7 daily; 25min). Terni to: Amelia (4 daily; 1hr); Cascata delle Marmore (20 daily; 15min); Orvieto (via Amelia; 13 daily Mon–Sat; 2hr–2hr 20min); Scheggino (8 daily; 55min); Todi (3 daily Mon–Sat; 1hr); also long-distance services to Bolsena (connection at Orvieto) and Rome (2 daily; 1hr 25min). Todi to: Perugia (4–7 daily; 1hr 15min); Terni (3 daily Mon–Sat; 1hr).

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CHAPTER 10

Highlights

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Urbino “Ideal city” and art capital created by Federico da Montefeltro, the ultimate Renaissance man. See p.581

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San Leo This spectacular ancient town on a rocky outcrop is a landmark for miles around. See p.589

✱

| Highlights

Conero Riviera Cliff-lined coastline ideal for walking, cycling and swimming in one of several small bays. See p.600

✱

Macerata and the road to Sarnano Catch a summer opera in this sleepy old university town before driving south through some of central Italy’s most beautiful countryside. See p.604 & p.608

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Monti Sibillini A hiker’s mountain paradise. See p.610

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Ascoli Piceno Interesting food and architectural gems in this relatively undiscovered medieval town. See p.612

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The fortress of San Leo

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| Urbino and around

ying between the Apennines and the Adriatic, Le Marche (sometimes anglicized as The Marches) is a varied region, and one you could spend weeks exploring. Large areas of it are unspoilt, particularly in the southwest, where stone hill-villages make atmospheric bases for hikes into the stunning Monti Sibillini range. Not that all of Le Marche is free from tourism: English and German tourists have been buying and renovating cottages in the countryside, and much of the coastline is studded with modern resorts. The area also has a fair amount of industry – in particular light engineering, shoe manufacturing and ceramics – heaviest around the port of Ancona and along the main road and rail route from Umbria. Of Le Marche’s old-fashioned and slightly forgotten seaside resorts, Pésaro is the largest, with a Renaissance centre maintaining its dignity behind the packagetour seafront. For more interesting sunning and swimming, head south of Ancona to the Conero Riviera, a dramatic stretch of coast, with small beaches nestling beneath the craggy cliffs of Monte Conero. San Benedetto del Tronto has 6km of sand, ﬁve thousand palm trees, and numerous discos, but is not exactly a happening place compared with Rimini, for example. The most appealing – and best known – of Le Marche’s sights are the small hilltop town of Urbino, with its spectacular Renaissance palace, and the dramatic fortress of San Leo, just across the border from San Marino. Further south, Macerata is a sleepy university town surrounded by lovely countryside, and, right on the regional border, the fascinating city of Ascoli Piceno is a worthy stop off on the way into Abruzzo. Getting around on public transport is relatively easy, though a car is useful in the more remote areas; W orari.trasporti.marche.it is a useful website with timetables covering the whole region (in Italian only). There are two main rail routes: along the coast on the Milan–Bari line or across Italy on the Ancona–Rome service. The provincial capitals – Urbino, Pésaro, Macerata, Ancona and Ascoli Piceno – are all well served by public transport, and Ancona is also a major port for ferries to Croatia, Greece and Turkey. For hiking in the Sibillini, Amándola has the best bus service; if you don’t mind relying on fewer buses, Montefortino is a prettier base.

Urbino and around URBINO is a walled, rather dour, mostly brick-built jumble of Renaissance and medieval houses, churches and palazzi atop a hill, dominated by the tremendous Palazzo Ducale. During the second half of the ﬁfteenth century, it was one of the most prestigious courts in Europe, ruled by the remarkable Federico da Montefeltro,

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| Urbino and around

Urbisaglia Porto za GualdoTadino S. Giorgio ot en S. Severino rP M.Penna Marche Tolentino Urbisaglia i ve R (1432m) M. Pennino Fermo n Camerino (1571m) S. Ginesio Te er Lago di Ri v Monteﬁore Fiastra Assisi o d’Aso Grottammare r As Sarnano Sasso ve a Tetto Monte cchi enó M M.Fema Ússita Sibilla River Amándola (1575m) (2175m) M.d. Montefortino San Ascensione Visso Montemónaco Benedotto (1103m)

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who employed some of the greatest artists and architects of the time to build and decorate his palace. Baldassarre Castiglione, whose sixteenth-century handbook of courtly behaviour, Il Cortegiane (The Courtier), is set in the palace, reckoned it to be the most beautiful in all Italy, and it does seem from contemporary accounts that ﬁfteenth-century Urbino was an extraordinarily civilized place, a measured and urbane society in which life was lived without indulgence. Nowadays Urbino is saved from an existence as a museum piece by its lively university. In term-time at least, there’s a refreshing, energetic feel to the town and plenty of places to eat and drink. Its nightlife is hardly wild, but a few bars host local bands. Although a new town has grown up in the valley below, it seems to have been almost wilfully designed to be as ugly as possible, so as to better highlight the glories of the walled upper town, which, after all, is where you’ll want to spend most of your time.

Arrival and information 582

Regular buses from Pésaro – where they depart from Piazzale Matteotti and the train station until around 8pm – and slower buses from Fano stop in Borgo Mercatale, a terminus-cum-car park at the foot of the Palazzo Ducale in the modern lower town.

Greece & Turkey

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S. Claudio Chienti

Monte Conero Sirolo

From here you can either walk up the ramp or take the lift (daily 8am–8pm; €0.50) to the old town, emerging outside the Palazzo Ducale. Outside these hours it’s a ﬁveminute walk along Via Mazzini, or you could take a taxi (T 0722.327.949). Driving within the city walls is an option available only to locals with a permit. Visitors have to park up at one of the various car parks that ring the upper town (free, with a shuttle bus service, or at Borgo Mercatale, €1.20/hr). Note that most of Urbino is hillside and touring its streets can be pretty hard on the legs. The tourist office (Mon 9am–1pm, Tues–Sat 9am–1pm & 3–6pm; July & Aug may also open Sun; T 0722.2613, W www.urbinoculturaturismo.it) is at Piazza Duca Federico 35, directly opposite the Palazzo Ducale. There is also a small office at Borgo Mercatale by the entrance to the ramp and lift (Mon–Sat 9am–6pm, Sun 9am–1pm).

Accommodation

Le Marche is very much a rural region, its food a mixture of seafood from the long coastline and country cooking from the interior, based on locally grown produce – tomatoes and fennel – and funghi, game, nuts and herbs gathered from the wild. The most distinctive dish, often served at summer festas, is a sweet-and-sour mix of olives stuffed with meat and fried, then served with crema fritta, little squares of fried cream. Rabbit and lamb are popular, as is pappardelle alla papera, wide, ﬂat pasta with duck sauce, and, as in many other regions, trufﬂes are considered a delicacy. Unfamiliar items on the antipasti menu include lonza (salt-cured pork) and ciauscolo (a pork-based spread). Meat grilled alla brace (over wood embers) is ubiquitous, and you may even come across porchetta, whole roast suckling pig, both in its original large-scale form and in a fast-food version used to ﬁll crisp bread rolls. Don’t confuse it with coniglio in porchetta though – this is rabbit cooked with fennel. Baked, stuffed dishes such as vincisgrassi, a rich layered dish of pasta, minced meat, mushrooms, giblets, brain, bechamel and trufﬂes, are found everywhere. A typical seafood dish from Ancona is zuppa di pesce, a ﬁsh soup ﬂavoured with saffron, though you’ll ﬁnd excellent ﬁsh broths – known simply as brodetto – all along the coast. Puddings include cicercchiata, balls of pasta fried and covered in honey, and frappe, fried leaves of ﬁlo-like pastry dusted with icing sugar. Although it produces many drinkable wines, the region is best known for Verdicchio, a greeny-gold white, excellent with ﬁsh, which is instantly recognizable from its amphora-shaped bottle. This is in fact a hangover from a 1950s marketing ploy inspired by the ancient Greek custom of shipping wine from Ancona in clay amphorae, and, reputedly, by the shape of the actress Gina Lollobrigida. Today, however, many producers sell their best Verdicchio in standard bottles – the one to look out for is Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi. Lesser-known reds include one of Italy’s ﬁnest, Rosso Conero, a light wine based on the Montepulciano grape and full of fruit; more common is Rosso Piceno, based on the Sangiovese grape. A Marche aperitif now back in fashion is mistrà, an aniseed liqueur generally drunk with coffee.

| Urbino and around

Regional food and wine

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Urbino’s accommodation ranges from comfortable hotels to small B&Bs. With a car, and especially during the oppressive heat of summer, a hotel outside the city is an option. An economical alternative if staying for a week or more is a room in a private house – ask the tourist office for a list and, during term time when you’ll be competing for places with students, book in advance. Expect to pay anything between €50 and €100 for a double, depending on the season. The nearest campsite is the Pineta (T 0722.4710, W www.camping-pineta-urbino.it; Easter–Sept) at Via S. Donato Ca’ Mignone, 2km east of Urbino; bus #7 drops you close by.

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City hotels and B&Bs

within this sixteenth-century patrician house, known as Palazzo della Spillara, is cheap, neat and central, and has ﬁfteen singles and ﬁfteen doubles, ﬁve of them without bathroom. Breakfast is not included, but there is a good-value restaurant serving typical Marche dishes. Closed July. 1

Outside the city

The Palazzo Ducale The Palazzo Ducale (Mon–Sat 9am–6pm, Sun 9am–1pm; €4, €8 if there is an exhibition), overlooking the surrounding countryside, is a ﬁtting monument to Federico, the urbane ruler of ﬁfteenth-century Urbino. An elegant combination of the aesthetic and the practical, the facade comprises a triple-decked loggia in the form of a triumphal arch ﬂanked by twin defensive towers. In contrast, the Palazzo’s bare south side, forming one edge of the long central Piazza Rinascimento, looks rather bleak, and it’s only inside that you begin to understand its reputation as one of the ﬁnest buildings of the Renaissance. Although the Palazzo now houses the Galleria Nazionale delle Marche, only the few remaining original Urbino works justify much attention, and until you hit these it’s the building itself that makes the biggest impression.

| Urbino and around

Balcone sul Metauro Via Manzoni 20, Peglio, near Urbania T0722.310.104, Wwww.balcone sulmetauro.com. A 20-minute drive southwest of Urbino, this modern option is a good choice, and great value for money. Most rooms have balconies with lovely views over the little town of Peglio, and there’s good food and an open-air swimming pool too. 1 La Meridiana Via Urbinate 43 T0722.320.169, Wwww.hotelmeridianaurbino.com. About 3km outside Urbino on the road to Pésaro. The interior decoration is bland but it has a swimming pool and a restaurant, friendly staff, and is useful if everything else is booked up. 2 Nenè Via Biancalana, Crocicchia T0722.2996, Wwww.neneurbino.com. This restored stone house, 2km from Urbino, just off the “strada rossa” towards Fermignano, is visited as much for its great restaurant – with interesting vegetarian options – as for its rooms. There’s an open-air pool too. 1

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Boncorte Via delle Mura 28 T0722.2463, Wwww .viphotels.it. Old-fashioned hotel just inside the city walls with views over the countryside. Breakfast is served in the tiny courtyard garden in summer. 2 Il Cortegiano Via Veterani 1 T 340.844.1181, W www.ilcortegiano.it. This B&B has six large sunny rooms and three mini-apartments, each with its own bathroom, and is located just across from the Palazzo Ducale above a bar/restaurant. 2 Italia Corso Garibaldi 32 T 0722.2701, Wwww .albergo-italia-urbino.it. Renovated hotel in a porticoed street, with terracotta ﬂoors and plain but attractive rooms. Breakfast is in the small private garden in summer. 2 Raffaello Via Santa Margherita 38/40 T0722.4896, Wwww.albergoraffaello.com. Old-town hotel with simply furnished rooms and wide views (especially from the ﬁve superior doubles on the third ﬂoor) over the pantiled roofs of Urbino. 3 San Domenico Piazza Rinascimento 3 T 0722.2626, W www.viphotels.it. Located in a former religious complex across from the Palazzo Ducale, this has been sumptuously decorated, offering large rooms, big beds, polished wood ﬂoors and breakfast tables under the porticoes. 5 San Giovanni Via Barocci 13 T0722.2827, W www.albergosangiovanniurbino.it. The hotel

The courtyard and ground ﬂoor

Just inside the entrance, the Cortile d’Onore is your ﬁrst real taste of what Urbino is about. The courtyard is not immediately striking – the rest of Italy has a host of similar ones, but this is the prototype. Designed by Dalmatian-born Luciano Laurana, who was selected by Federico after he’d failed to ﬁnd a suitably bold artist in Florence, it’s both elegant and restrained. Off the Cortile is the room that housed Federico’s library, in its day one of the most comprehensive in Europe. He spent fourteen years and over thirty thousand ducats gathering books from across the continent, and employed forty scribes to make illuminated copies on kidskin, which were then covered in crimson and decorated with silver. They disappeared into the vaults of the Vatican after Urbino fell to the papacy in 1631, and all that’s left of the room’s former grandeur is one

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Federico da Montefeltro

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Federico da Montefeltro (1422–82) was a formidable soldier, a shrewd and humane ruler, and a genuine intellectual. As the elder but illegitimate son of the Montefeltro family, he only became ruler of Urbino after his tyrannical half-brother Oddantonio fell victim to an assassin during a popular rebellion. Federico promptly arrived on the scene – fuelling rumours that he’d engineered the uprising himself – and was elected to ofﬁce after promising to cut taxes, to provide an education and health service, and to allow the people some say in the election of magistrates. Urbino was a small state with few natural resources a long way from any major trading routes, so selling the military services of his army and himself was Federico’s only way of keeping Urbino solvent. Federico’s mercenary activities yielded a huge annual income, a substantial portion of which was used to keep taxes low, thus reducing the likelihood of social discontent during his long absences. When he was at home, he would leave his door open at mealtimes so that any member of his 500-strong court might speak to him between courses, and used to move around his state unarmed (unusual in a time when assassination was common), checking on the welfare of his people. Between military and political commitments, Federico also found time to indulge his interest in the arts. Though he delighted in music, his ﬁrst love was architecture, which he considered to be the highest form of intellectual and aesthetic activity. A friend of the leading architectural theorist Alberti, he commissioned buildings from Renaissance luminaries such as Francesco di Giorgio Martini and Piero della Francesca.

of the more vainglorious representations of Federico’s power – the Eagle of the Montefeltro family surrounded by tongues of ﬁre, symbolizing the artistic and spiritual gifts bestowed by Federico. The ﬁrst ﬂoor

A monumental staircase takes you up to the ﬁrst ﬂoor. Wandering through the white, airy rooms, you’ll see wooden doors inlaid with everything from gyroscopes and mandolins to armour, representing the various facets of Federico’s personality. A famous portrait of Federico by the Spanish artist Pedro Berruguete is worth seeking out. Painted, as he always was, from the left, in proﬁle (having lost his right eye in battle), Federico is shown as warrior, ruler, scholar and dynast; wearing an ermine-fringed gown over his armour, he sits reading a book, with his pale and delicate son, Guidobaldo, standing at his feet. The most elaborately decorated part of the palazzo is the suite of rooms known as the Appartamento del Duca. On display here are two of Piero della Francesca’s greatest works: the Madonna of Senigallia, a haunting depiction of foreboding in which Mary, ﬂanked by two angels, offers up her child; and the more perplexing Flagellation, showing Christ being almost casually beaten. Also here is Raphael’s compelling portrait of a gentlewoman, La Muta. Still in the Appartamento del Duca, no painting better embodies the notion of perfection held by Urbino’s elite than The Ideal City, long attributed to Piero but now thought to be by one of his followers. Probably intended as a design for a stage set, this famous display of perspective skill depicts a perfectly symmetrical and utterly deserted cityscape, expressing the desire for a civic order that mirrors that of the heavens. Paolo Uccello’s last work, the six-panelled Profanation of the Host, tells the story of a woman who sold a consecrated host to a Jewish merchant. She was hanged, and the merchant and his family were burned at the stake – the angels and devils are arguing over the custody of the woman’s soul. The morbid theme and fairy-tale atmosphere that pervade the work may reﬂect the artist’s depression at getting old:

shortly after completing it, he ﬁlled in his tax return with the statement, “I am old, inﬁrm and unemployed, and my wife is ill.” It’s the next three rooms of the Duke’s apartment that give you the best insight into Federico’s personality. A spiral staircase descends to two adjoining chapels, one dedicated to Apollo and the Muses, the other to the Christian God. This dualism typiﬁes a strand of Renaissance thought in which mythology and Christianity were reconciled by positing a universe in which pagan deities were seen as aspects of the omnipotent Christian deity. Back on the main ﬂoor you come to the most interesting and best-preserved of the palace’s rooms, Federico’s Studiolo, a triumph of illusory perspective created not with paint but with intarsia (inlaid wood). Shelves laden with geometrical instruments appear to protrude from the walls and cupboard doors seem to swing open to reveal lines of books, while a letter lies in an apparently half-open drawer. The upper half of the room is covered with 28 portraits of great men ranging from Homer and Petrarch to Solomon and St Ambrose – another example of Federico’s eclecticism.

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| Urbino and around

Urbino is a lively place in term time, and its bustling streets can be a refreshing antidote to the rareﬁed atmosphere of the Palazzo Ducale. Next door to the palace, the town’s Duomo is a pompous Neoclassical replacement for Francesco di Giorgio Martini’s Renaissance church, destroyed in an earthquake in 1789. There’s a museum inside (daily 9.30am–1pm & 2.30–6.30pm; €3.50), but the only reason for going in would be to see Barocci’s Last Supper, with Christ surrounded by the chaos of washers-up, dogs and angels. Just south, down the hill, is the Museo della Città (daily 10am–6pm; free), which has displays on Urbino arranged around the central courtyard of the Renaissance Palazzo Odessi. An audioguide is available for €3 and, as the museum bills itself as a collection of ideas rather than objects, you’ll probably need it to explain the thinking behind displays entitled “Desire” and “Memory”. Look out for the collection of historic city signs and the scale model of Urbino. A trek up to the gardens dominated by the sixteenth-century fortress, Fortezza Albornoz (Fri 3.30–7.30pm, Sat & Sun 9.30am–12.30pm & 3.30–7.30pm; free) is rewarded with great views of the town and the countryside. Close by is the Oratorio di San Giovanni (Mon–Sat 10am–12.30pm & 3–5.30pm, Sun 10am–12.30pm; winter mornings only; €2.50), behind whose unfortunate modern facade is a stunning cycle of early fourteenth-century frescoes, depicting the life of St John the Baptist and the Cruciﬁxion. On Via Raffaello, the Casa Natale di Raffaello, birthplace (in 1483) of Urbino’s most famous son, the painter Raphael (summer Mon–Sat 9am–1pm & 3–7pm, Sun 10am–1pm; winter Mon–Sat 9am–2pm, Sun 10am–1pm; €3), proudly displays the “stone” where Raphael and his father Giovanni Santi mixed their pigments and sizes. There’s one work by Raphael, an early Madonna and Child, otherwise the walls are covered with reproductions and minor works by his contemporaries.

Eating, drinking and nightlife There are plenty of reasonable places to eat in Urbino, with dozens of fast-food and inexpensive self-service places aimed at student budgets – the university mensa on Piazza San Filippo, which is open to student ID card-holders only, is the best deal. There’s also more reﬁned cooking typical of the province in a selection of more formal restaurants. During term time, Urbino’s late-night bars see a brisk trade, and there are reasonable dancing and live music options on offer too.

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Cafés and restaurants

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Angolo Divino Via Sant’Andrea 14 T0722.327.559. Geranium-covered on the outside, and atmospheric within, this osteria is located in an ancient palazzo near the Botanical Gardens. It’s well known for regional delicacies (including home-made pasta) and there are some good vegetarian choices as well. Various ﬁxed menus, starting from €20. Closed Mon lunch and Sun dinner. Antica Osteria da la Stella Via S. Margherita/Via Raffaello T 0722.320.228. This pretty restaurant is an inspired new addition to the Urbino eating scene. The constantly changing seasonal menu reﬂects chef-owner Giovanna Cecchetti’s passion for authentic local produce in dishes such as tagliatelle with local trufﬂes and porcini mushrooms, and rabbit with wild fennel. Bread, pasta and desserts are all home-made, and there are always vegetarian options. Primi €9–10, secondi €18–28. Closed Mon. Café Vineria Raffaello Via Raffaello 41. Café-bar serving sit-down or takeaway piadine (ﬂatbread with a variety of ﬁllings, such as cheese and ham; €4–5.50) and crescia sfogliata (a bit like a pizza folded in half; €4). If you are looking for edible goodies to take home, be sure to call in at Raffaello Degusteria across the street. Closed Sun. Del Leone Via C. Battisti 5 T0722.329.894. This small, subterranean trattoria under the San Francesco church serves up some of the city’s best food. Try the menù di piatti tipici featuring spinach and ricotta ravioli, whole roast pig, baked potatoes, biscuits and dessert wine for €20. Closed lunch Mon–Fri. Franco Via del Poggio 1 T0722.2492. Lunchtime self-service place (though you can request restaurant service by booking ahead), serving primi such as home-made strozzapreti – “strangled priests” (one can only assume that its twisted shape is supposed to be resonant of a strangled neck) – with vegetables, and secondi including rabbit cooked with fennel. A full meal will set you back around €25 including house wine. Closed Sun and dinner. La Balestra Via Valerio 16 T 0722.2942. Unpretentious restaurant with tables inside and out and serving typical local food (game and trufﬂes) and pizzas until 3am. Primi €8–9, secondi €8–16. Closed Wed in winter. Le Tre Piante Corner of Via Foro Posterula 1 and Via Voltaccia della Vecchia T 0722.4863. Rather hidden away, this restaurant is worth seeking out for its small terrace overlooking the hills. Pasta dishes such as strozzapreti (€7.50) with sausage, cream, mushrooms and peppers, and pizza (€4.50–7) are excellently done. The grilled meat is

best sampled in the carnivorous splendours of the mixed grill (€15). Closed Mon. Morgana Via Nuova 3 T 0722.2528. Another inexpensive choice, offering a one-course set menu for €15. Good for traditional, seasonal dishes, such as tagliatelle con verdura selvatica (with wild greens). Closed Mon. Punto Macrobiotico Via Pozzo Nuovo 6 T0722.329.790. Students pack out this 120-seater, self-service restaurant for its bargain vegetarian dishes, made from home-grown cereals and vegetables. It also operates an on-site macrobiotic shop. Closed Sun. Vecchia Urbino Via dei Vasari 3/5 T 0722.4447. Elegant and upmarket place with a traditional menu including cappelletti con fegato grasso e tartufo (pasta ﬁlled with liver and trufﬂes), marinated home-made sausage and olives as well as meat and ﬁsh grilled over a wood ﬁre. The puddings are excellent too, and the wine list is good value. Primi €10.50–13, secondi €11–25. Booking advisable. Closed Tues and ten days in July.

Bars, clubs and live music venues Bosom Pub Via Budassi 24 T 0722.4783. Stone-vaulted, if garishly lit, pub with a wellstocked bar, including Belgian beers, and “giraffes” – tall contraptions full of several litres for a group to share. Plays mainstream latin, house, pop and rock. Decent sandwiches available too. Closed Mon in winter. Caffè Basili Piazza della Repubblica 1. Venerable café on the main square with a tempting array of pastries such as miniature custard and fruit cakes, Florentines and doughnuts. Caffè Centrale Piazza della Repubblica. Rather unremarkable in itself, this café’s position on the central square has made it a prime meeting spot, attracting strolling couples and jolly groups of young locals throughout the evening. Caffè del Sole Via Mazzini 34 T 0722.2619. Up from the bus station, on the main drag into town, this alternative café-bar is open from morning till the early hours. It has a laidback atmosphere, comfy couches and aperitifs accompanied by live jazz on Wed and Sun. Osteria Libreria Il Portico An intriguing venue in an archway at the top of Via Mazzini that bills itself as a bookshop, pizzeria, pub and osteria. You can browse the shelves by day – when they serve panini and pasta and have a €15 tourist menu – or head here at night when it turns into a club open till 2am. Closed Mon.

Around Urbino The villages north of Le Marche up towards San Marino are pleasant enough, although most can’t compete with the crumbling hill-settlements further south. Two places, however – Sassocorvaro and San Leo – are well worth a trip and reward the effort of getting there with splendid medieval strongholds. Sassocorvaro

The menacing fortress of SAN LEO (daily 9am–6pm; €8), clamped to the summit of a dizzying precipice in the northern tip of Le Marche, has staggered generations of visitors with its intimidating beauty. Machiavelli praised it, Dante modelled the terrain of his Purgatory on it, and Pietro Bembo considered it Italy’s “most beautiful implement of war”. In fact it’s not as impregnable as it seems; one of the few invaders to have actually been repelled was Cesare Borgia, despite his having ﬁrst persuaded a weak-willed retainer to give him the key.

| Urbino and around

San Leo

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Perched above a twee artiﬁcial lake some 30km northwest of Urbino by road and reached by buses from Pésaro in about an hour and a half, SASSOCORVARO is dominated by one of Francesco di Giorgio Martini’s most ambitious fortresses (April–Sept daily 9am–12.30pm & 3–6.30pm; Oct–March Sat & Sun 9am–12.30pm & 3–6pm; €4). Built on the orders of Federico da Montefeltro for one of his condottieri (mercenary soldiers), Ottaviano degli Ubaldini, it was, like San Leo (see below), designed to withstand the onslaught of cannon. Unfortunately, the site lacked San Leo’s natural advantages and Francesco was forced to seek a strictly architectural solution, doing away with straight walls and building a grim fortress bulging with hourglass towers. After the functional exterior, the inside comes as something of a surprise, with an elegant Renaissance courtyard and an intimate and frescoed theatre. It’s a tribute to the strength of Francesco’s architecture that the fortress was selected as a safe house for some of Italy’s greatest works of art during World War II, including Piero della Francesca’s Flagellation and Giorgione’s La Tempesta, reproductions of which are on show. There’s also a museum of folk life (same hours and ticket), with displays of traditional weaving, wine-making equipment and a mock-up of an old kitchen.

The fortress

There’s been a fortress at San Leo since the Romans founded a city on the rock. Later colonizers added to it until the ﬁfteenth century, when Federico da Montefeltro realized that it was no match for the new gunpowder-charged weapons, and set his military architect, Francesco di Giorgio Martini, the task of creating a new one. The walls were built on a slight inward slope and backed with earth, thus reducing the impact of cannonballs. Three large squares were incorporated for the manoeuvring of heavy cannons, and every point was defended with ﬁring posts. From the eighteenth century San Leo was used as a prison for enemies of the Vatican, of whom the most notorious was the womanizing Count of Cagliostro, a self-proclaimed alchemist, miracle doctor and necromancer. At ﬁrst the charismatic heretic was incarcerated in a regular prison, but on the insistence of his guards, who were terriﬁed of his diabolic powers, he was moved to the so-called Pozzetto di Cagliostro (Cagliostro’s Well), now the fortress’s most memorable sight. The only entrance was through a trap door in the ceiling, so that food could be lowered to him without the warden running the risk of engaging Cagliostro’s evil eye. There was one window, triple-barred and placed so that the prisoner couldn’t avoid seeing San Leo’s twin churches. Not that this had any effect –

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Cagliostro died of an apoplectic attack, unrepentant after four years of being virtually buried alive. The village

As well as the fortress, there’s the pleasant old village to explore. St Leo arrived in the third century and converted the local population to Christianity, and the two village churches, though they failed to impress Cagliostro, are worth a visit. The Pieve was built in the ninth century, with material salvaged from a Roman temple to Jupiter, by Byzantine-inﬂuenced architects from Ravenna. Sunk into the ground behind the church is a sixth-century chapel founded by and later dedicated to St Leo, whose body lay here until 1014 when Henry II, Emperor of Germany, calling in at the town on his way home from defeating the Greeks and Saracens in Rome, decided to remove it to Germany. His plans were thwarted by the horses bearing the saint’s body – after a short distance they refused to go any further, so St Leo’s body was left in the small village of Voghenza near Ferrara. The heavy lid of the sarcophagus remains in San Leo’s twelfth-century Duomo, dedicated to the saint. L E M ARC HE

Practicalities

| Pésaro and around

Getting to San Leo on public transport is a pain: you need to travel up the coast to Rimini, and take a bus from outside the train station to Pietracuta, from where buses connect with a service to San Leo. Once here, there’s a tourist office at Piazza Dante 14 (daily 9am–6pm, open later in summer; T 0541.916.306, W www.san-leo.it). There are two hotels: the rambling La Rocca, Via G. Leopardi 16 (T 0541.916.241, W www.laroccasanleo.it; 2 ), which has a rustic restaurant beneath its six rooms, and the spick-and-span Castello, Piazza Dante Alighieri 11/12 (T 0541.916.214, W www.hotelristorantecastellosanleo.com; 2 ), a familyrun hotel, bar and restaurant on the main square.

Pésaro and around Most of the tourists who come to PÉSARO visit for a beach holiday, attracted by the string of affordable three-star hotels and the low-key family fun on offer. Germans and Brits arrive on cheap package holidays but it’s a popular place with extended families of Italians, too, going through the daily ritual of beach, lunch, beach, passeggiata and ice cream before dinner back at the hotel. Not a bad way to spend a family holiday. Much of Pésaro dates from the 1920s and 1930s, and the town today is a bit of a backwater but pleasant enough nonetheless, with its long stretch of sandy beach and an old centre full of small craft and design shops. And with regular transport connections to lesser-known towns like Gradara and Fano, it makes a feasible base from which to explore the northern Marche.

Arrival and information

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Viale Risorgimento leads from the train station to the town’s main axis, Via Branca– Via Rossini–Viale della Repubblica, which cuts straight through the historical town to the beach. Bisecting it at Piazza del Popolo are Corso XI Settembre, scene of the evening passeggiata, and Via San Francesco, which leads to the bus station on Piazzale Matteotti. The main tourist office (summer Mon–Sat 8.30am–1.30pm & 3–7pm, Sun 8.30am–1pm; winter Mon, Wed, Thurs & Sat 9am–1pm, Tues & Fri 9am–1pm & 3–6pm; T 0721.69.341, W www.turismo.pesarourbino.it) is on the seafront on Piazzale della Libertà, at the end of Viale della Repubblica.

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| Pésaro and around

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Accommodation There are certainly plenty of hotels in Pésaro, although that doesn’t necessarily equate to plenty of choice. Most of the places here offer much the same level of mid-range family-orientated services and comfort. Expect to pay slightly more for a sea-facing room. As for camping, A Camping Panorama, 7km north of Pésaro (T 0721.20.8145, W www.campingpanorama.it; May–Sept), is the closest campsite and enjoys a tranquil setting perched on a clifftop above the sea (a path leads down to the beach below). It’s very well equipped with a swimming pool, a shop, a games room and a collection of simple air-conditioned chalets, each with two bedrooms, a living room and cooking facilities. See also the campsites listed under Fano on p.594.

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Hotels Clipper Viale Marconi 53 T 0721.30.915, Wwww.hotelclipper.it. Run by a friendly family, the Clipper lies a block back from the beach. The rooms are a bit bland and generic, but large and well equipped. The buffet breakfasts are served alfresco on the terrace. May–Sept. 2 Des Bains Viale Trieste 221 T 0721.34.957, W www.innitalia.com. This is one of the few hotels to stay open all year. It was built in 1905, and though modernized many times since then, still has something of the belle époque about it. 2 Napoleon Viale Fiume 118 T 0721.31.160, W www.hotelnapoleonpesaro.it. The boxy, blue

Napoleon, just across from the sea, is very much geared up for families, with mini-suites, bikes, play room, pool and waterslides. It’s fairly good quality but can get very noisy. Half-board in summer is an additional €10 per person. Open May–Sept. 3 Villa Serena Via S. Nicola 6/3 T0721.55.211, Wwww.villa-serena.it. On the edge of town on the road south towards Fano, this is a lovely, atmospheric, family-owned hotel set in a restored eighteenth-century “villacastle” and stuffed full of antiques and heirlooms. There are just eight beautifully decorated rooms and a swimming pool in the rambling garden. Closed Jan & Feb. 3

The Town

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| Pésaro and around

The centre of town is the digniﬁed Piazza del Popolo, in which the rituals of the pavement café scene are played out against the sharp lines of sundry Fascist-period buildings and the Renaissance restraint of the Palazzo Ducale. All of the main attractions are within a ﬁve-minute walk of here. Although the town has a clutch of museums, the main attraction is undoubtedly its beach. A tree-lined grid of rather bland and boxy looking apartments marks the long sandy beachfront, enlivened here and there by some rather marvellous Art Nouveau villas, including one on Piazzale della Libertà whose eaves are supported by white plaster lobsters. The Musei Civici

The most signiﬁcant relic of Renaissance Pésaro is Giovanni Bellini’s magniﬁcent Coronation of the Virgin polyptych, housed in the Pinacoteca of the Musei Civici at Piazza Toschi Mosca 29 (mid-June to mid-Sept Tues, Fri & Sat 10am–1pm & 4.30–7.30pm, Wed & Thurs 10am–1pm, Sun 4.30–7.30pm; winter hours vary, so check W www.museicivicipesaro.it; €4, €7 joint ticket with Casa Rossini). Painted in the 1470s, the altarpiece situates the coronation not in some starry heaven but in the countryside around Pésaro, dominated by the castle of Gradara. Portraits of saints ﬂank the central scene, ranging from the hesitant St Lawrence to the dreamy St Anthony, and below are a Nativity and scenes from the saints’ lives. The complex also contains the Museo delle Ceramiche. Renaissance Pésaro was famous for its ceramics, and the museum houses a ﬁne collection – ranging from a Madonna and Child surrounded by pine cones, lemons and bilberries, from the workshop of Andrea della Robbia, to plates decorated with an Arabian bandit. Via Rossini and Corso XI Settembre

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A couple of steps from the museum on Via Rossini is Pésaro’s Romanesque cathedral (hours vary but usually open daily 9am–noon and 4–6pm), with a large mosaic on two levels showing incredibly intricate geometric Byzantine and medieval designs. Also on Via Rossini, at no. 34, the Casa Rossini (same hours as Musei Civici; €4, €7 with Musei Civici) houses a growing shrine of memorabilia to the composer, who was born here in 1792. The Teatro Rossini on Piazza Lazzarini, at the end of Via Branca, hosts an opera festival in his honour every August (W www.rossinioperafestival.it). Back in the centre, old and narrow Via Castelﬁdardo leads down to Pésaro’s most attractive street, porticoed Corso XI Settembre. If you want to do more than just browse in its shops, take a look inside the church of Sant’Agostino – the

choir stalls are inlaid with landscapes, Renaissance cityscapes, and, displaying a wit to rival the studiolo in the Palazzo Ducale in Urbino, half-open cupboards and protruding stacks of books. The Museo Archeologico

On Via Mazza, the continuation of Via Castelﬁdardo, Pésaro’s archeological museum, the Museo Archeologico Oliveriano (for opening hours call T 0721.33344; free), is housed in the Palazzo Almerici and has a small but unusual collection of local ﬁnds. Among the relics from an Iron Age necropolis at nearby Novilara are a child’s tomb ﬁlled with miniature domestic utensils and a tomb slab carved with pear-shaped ﬁgures rowing a square-sailed boat into battle. Even more intriguing is the collection of ex votos – breasts, feet, heads and even a dog – collected not from an early Catholic church but from a Roman sacred grove at San Veneranda (3km from Pésaro), consecrated in the second century BC.

Eating and drinking

Caffè Ducale Piazza del Popolo 21. If you feel like a sit-down and a spot of people-watching, the square-side Caffè Ducale is one of the prime spots to do it. Revive yourself with a caffè ducale, a mixture of coffee, chocolate, amaretto and steamed milk. C’era Una Volta Via Cattaneo 26 T 0721.30.911. Long regarded as the purveyor of the best pizza in town, this certainly offers plenty of choice with exactly 100 different types of pizza on the menu, from simple cheese and tomato (€4) to one laden with mozzarella, sausage, ham, mushrooms, trufﬂes and aubergines (€9). Closed Mon.

| Pésaro and around

Alceo Strada Panoramica Ardizio 119 T 0721.51.360. On the coast, 3km south of Pésaro, this reﬁned restaurant – it has its own helipad – is the best in the area, serving magniﬁcently cooked, exquisitely presented, fresh ﬁsh in an elegant and romantic environment with gorgeous sea views. Signature dishes range from raw scampi to a soup of crustaceans. Very expensive. Closed Sun dinner in winter and Mon. Antica Osteria La Guercia Via Baviera 33 T 0721.33.463. One the town’s better choices, this restaurant does amazing pasta and ﬁsh dishes at affordable prices. Try the menù degustazione for €20, including drinks. Closed Sun.

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There’s no shortage of places to eat and drink, although be aware that the best restaurants are all located inland in the old town; most of the hotel restaurants along the front serve bland cuisine aimed at their multinational clientele.

Gradara Buses from Pésaro bus station (hourly; 1hr) make the 15km trip inland to the castle of GRADARA (Mon 8.30am–2pm, Tues–Sun 8.30am–7.15pm, ticket office closes one hour earlier; late-night opening in summer when staff levels permit, call T 0541.964.115; €4), a fairy-tale confection of mellow red-brick and swallow-tail turrets, but not the place to go in season if you want to avoid crowds. The castle is said to have been the scene of a thirteenth-century scandal involving Francesca da Rimini, who committed adultery with Paolo da Malatesta, her husband’s brother. The lovers were killed for their transgression and later consigned to hell by Dante – he meets their spirits in Canto V of the Inferno, where they are caught in a ceaseless whirlwind – though Francesca’s unhappy spirit is said to wander the castle when the moon is full. Inside the castle is a room decked out as the scene of the crime, with a sumptuously refurbished four-poster bed, fake wall hangings and an open book – Francesca tells Dante in hell that it was while reading the story of Lancelot and Guinevere that she and Paolo ﬁrst succumbed to their passion. Further reminders of the story are found in two nineteenth-century paintings: one showing the lovers (either dead or in a state of post-coital collapse) watched by the crippled husband; the other, less

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ambiguous, of the naked couple. Other rooms are furnished as a torture chamber, complete with spiked iron ball, handcuffs and lances, and as the guards’ room, a strange mixture of tavern and armoury. After touring the castle, it’s well worth taking a walk round the walls for the ﬁne views over the surrounding hills.

Fano Fifteen minutes south of Pésaro (by bus every 30 minutes or hourly trains) lies FANO, no longer quite the haven it was when Robert Browning came here in 1848, seeking relief from the heat and crowds of Florence. A large swathe of the seafront is dominated by a rather ugly industrial port area, and although its beaches remain splendid, they now attract thousands of package tourists every year. Nevertheless, Fano is a pleasant enough place if a little humdrum, and comfortably combines its role as resort with that of small ﬁshing port and minor historical town. Between the sandy and sheltered Lido and the long, pebbly Sassonia are good stretches of beach where you don’t have to pay, and there are further beaches at the little resorts of Torrette and Marotta to the south, both easily reached by bus. Arrival, information and accommodation L E M ARC HE

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The train station, where buses also stop, is ten minutes’ walk from the seafront, at the end of Via Cavallotti. Fano’s tourist office is on the front at Via C. Battisti 10 ( June to mid-Sept Mon, Wed & Fri 9am–12.30pm, Tues & Thurs 9am–12.30pm & 4–7pm, Sat & Sun 9am–1pm; T 0721.803.534, W www.turismofano.com and W www.fanonline.it). As for accommodation, aside from the options below, plenty of campsites line the coast between Pésaro and Fano: both Norina (T 0721.55.792; April–Sept) and Marinella (T 0721.55.795, W www.campingmarinella.it; April–Sept) are easily reached by bus from both towns. Hotels and B&Bs Angela Viale Adriatico 13 T 0721.801.239, W www.hotelangela.it. This is one of the most reasonably priced hotels, right on the seafront near the tourist ofﬁce, and has 37 simply furnished rooms, all with TV, and a garden. 2 Borgo della Luca Strada Madonna degli Angeli, Località Sant’Andrea in Villis 95/A T0721.885.763, W www.borgodellaluca.it. On a lower budget, you could stay in this lovely country B&B in an old stone house around 5.5km inland from Fano towards Pésaro. 2 Corallo Via Leonardo da Vinci 3 T 0721.804.200, W www.hotelcorallo-fano.it. Standard seafront hotel

with a/c, free wi-ﬁ, and cabins on the beach, plus use of a nearby pool. 3 Relais Villa Giulia Località San Biagio T 0721.823.159, W www.relaisvillagiulia .com. First choice if you have your own transport is this country villa in extensive grounds with views to the sea, a short walk away. Capably run by its bohemian and cultured aristocratic owners, there are books and magazines everywhere, ﬁres burning in winter and a large swimming pool in summer. The ﬁve rooms have frescoed walls, antique furniture and Turkish carpets, and there’s an independent apartment to rent in the grounds. 5

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If you’re coming to Fano by bus, you could ask to be dropped off at the old town gate, the crenellated Porta Maggiore, to start your sightseeing with the remnants of the medieval defensive walls, on the southwestern side of the town centre. Behind them is a Roman gate, the Arco di Augusto, impressive despite having been truncated in the ﬁfteenth century when Federico da Montefeltro blasted away its upper storey. You can see what it used to look like in a relief on the facade of the adjacent church of San Michele. The Roman precursor of Fano, named Fanum Fortunae after its Temple of Fortune, stood at the eastern end of the Via Flaminia, which cut across the

The Guardian Angel Not previously regarded as one of his ﬁner works, The Guardian Angel by the Emiliaborn Renaissance painter, Guercino, was quickly elevated to iconic status following a visit to Fano by the British poet, Robert Browning, in 1848. The picture, displayed in the Corte Malatestiana, shows a golden-haired child being shown how to pray by a rather chunky-looking angel, and so entranced Browning that he was inspired to write a poem of the same title. Expressing a wistful yearning to take the place of the child, the gushingly sentimental poem became incredibly popular, and Italy was ﬂooded with reproductions of the painting for holidaying Browning fans. The keenest disciples set up a club, membership of which was gained by travelling to Fano and sending the founder a postcard.

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Apennines to Rome. The town is still built around a Roman crossroads plan: Via Arco di Augusto and Corso Matteotti follow the routes of the cardus and decumanus, and their junction is marked with a copy of a Roman milestone stating its distance from the capital (195.4 Roman miles). There are few other relics of Roman Fano, although the ﬁfteenth-century fountain in the main square, along Via Mazzini, is dedicated to Fortune. Overlooking the fountain are the reconstructed thirteenth-century Palazzo della Ragione and the ﬁfteenth-century Corte Malatestiana, dating from the time Fano was ruled by the Malatesta family. Its most notorious member was Sigismondo, whose disagreements with the pope led to the siege of Fano (when the Arco di Augusto lost its top) and his excommunication. After the death of his ﬁrst wife – whom he was suspected of having poisoned – Sigismondo remarried in Fano in 1449, holding a three-day banquet in the Corte Malatestiana. Rumours about Sigismondo’s sinister interest in his wives’ diet revived when, seven years later, his second wife also died unexpectedly, leaving him free to marry his long-time mistress, Isotta degli Atti. The Corte is at its best nowadays on summer evenings, when its loggias, turrets and trefoil windows provide a backdrop for concerts. Inside there’s a small museum and art gallery (Tues–Sat 9.30am–12.30pm & 4–7pm, Sun 10am–1pm, usually with extended hours in summer; €3), whose most striking exhibit is a mosaic of a winged ﬁgure riding a panther. The upstairs gallery holds Guercino’s The Guardian Angel, which, thanks to Robert Browning’s literary intervention, became one of Italy’s most famous paintings in the nineteenth century (see box above). Less saccharine works are to be found in the Renaissance church of Santa Maria Nuova on Via de Pili, off the main square. The two works by Perugino, a Madonna, Child and Saints and an Annunciation, are both suffused with a calm luminosity. Eating and drinking

You can eat well in Fano. Trattoria Bar Nadia (Via del Bersaglio 25 T 0721.80664; closed Mon) is a long-established place by the sea serving good fresh ﬁsh and seafood. Even better, though not as picturesquely located, is Trattoria Maria, 2km or so inland at Via IV Novembre 86, on the corner of Via G. Verga, parallel with the main Via Roma (T 0721.808.962; closed Mon), with a very reasonably priced daily set menu of simply cooked, fabulously fresh ﬁsh. Just around the corner from the port, don’t miss one of the best budget places to eat in the province: A Self Service Al Pesce Azzurro, at Viale Adriatico 48 (T 0721.803.165; May– Oct closed Mon except August). Although it enjoys a pretty unprepossessing location, the restaurant, which is run by a cooperative of ﬁshermen’s wives, offers great-value three-course set meals of the freshest pesce azzurro – oily ﬁsh such as anchovies, sardines and mackerel – for just €10 a head.

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Ancona and around Severely damaged by war and earthquakes, workaday ANCONA is for many a gateway to the Marche region thanks to Falconara airport, 10km away. It has few historical monuments embedded in its tangle of commercial buildings, and the modern centre is a grid of broad avenues and palm-shaded piazzas, while the station area, with its heavy trucks travelling noisily to and from the port, will probably make you want to take the next train out. However, as one of the Adriatic’s largest ports it’s a convenient departure point, and as well as arriving here, you may well pass through in order to catch one of the regular ferries to Croatia, Albania, Greece and Turkey.

Arrival, information and accommodation

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Ryanair ﬂies direct from the UK to Falconara airport. Buses (roughly hourly 6.30am– 7.30pm; W www.conerobus.it) run from here to the train station on Piazza Rosselli, taking around thirty minutes. Buy your ticket (€1) before boarding from any bar or newspaper kiosk. A taxi will cost €35 (T 071.43.321). The main bus terminus is Piazza Cavour. From here, buses link up with the train station and the Stazione Maríttima, where ferries dock. Driving Ancona’s ﬁercely congested streets is not recommended, particularly as there is extremely limited parking. Via Marconi and its continuation, Via XXIX Settembre, run along the coast from the train station to the port and the centre of town. Via XXIX Settembre ends in

Ferries to Croatia, Albania, Greece and Turkey Ferries leave from the Stazione Maríttima, a couple of kilometres north of the train station (bus #1 or #4), close to the centre of town. For the best at-a-glance idea of timetables and routes, visit Wwww.doricaportservices.it. Each of the main ferry lines has a ticket ofﬁce (closed 1–3pm) and you can also buy tickets from the agencies all around the port, or alternatively book online. Among the main ferry companies, Superfast (T071.202.033 or 071.202.034, Wwww .superfast.com) runs to Igoumenitsa (15hr) and Patras (22hr) in Greece. Minoan Lines (T071.201.708, Wwww.minoan.it) and Anek (Wwww.anek.gr) also operate along this route. Jadrolinija (T071.204.305, Wwww.jadrolinija.hr) sails to Croatia and the Dalmatian islands (8–9hr), and Marmara Lines (T071.207.6165, Wwww.marmaralines .com) sails to Çesme in southwest Turkey (2 days), as do Amatori (T071.562.16, Wwww .amatori.com) who also operate services to the Croatian islands and Split. Ticket prices depend on the speed of the crossing, with one-way fares starting at around €60 per person to Croatia; if you’re taking a car add another €60. For the 22-hour overnight journey to Patras in July and August, reckon on paying €53 for deck class (cabins are available at additional cost), with an extra €77 for a car. For the mammoth crossing to Turkey (43hr 15min to 55hr) with Marmara Lines, you can expect to pay €160 for a Pullman seat, plus €195 for a car, one-way in high season. Most of the shipping lines offer some good ﬁve-adult/one-car deals. There are no discounts for holders of InterRail and Eurail passes, but outside high season prices drop by 15–20 percent. There are also 20 percent discounts on return journeys, and some lines will offer a discount if you have a student card. Check whether boarding taxes are included in your ticket; sometimes an additional fuel tax is payable to the port agency at the time of embarkation if you have a car. You should book in advance, and always aim to arrive at the Stazione Maríttima two hours before your ferry is due to depart (3 hours if you’re taking a camper van).

the adjacent piazzas of Kennedy and Repubblica, from which the modern centre’s three parallel avenues – Corso Stamira, Corso Garibaldi and Corso Mazzini – slice up to Piazza Cavour, while Via della Loggia runs up above the port to the alleyways of the old town. The main tourist office is at Via Podesti 21 (T 071.222.5066, W www.comune.ancona.it). There’s also an information point (April–Dec daily 10am–1pm & 4–8pm; T 320.019.6321) on Via Gramsci, close to the Teatro delle Muse. If you want to stay the night in Ancona you will ﬁnd no shortage of cheap and cheerful places opposite the train station. Hotels

centrally located bargain. It’s very popular so book ahead. 1 Roma e Pace Via G. Leopardi 1 T071.202.007, Wwww.hotelromaepace.it. Right in the centre of town, this is the most interesting of the mid-range hotels. It abounds with original ﬁttings and faded 1930s elegance – entering this place is like stepping into an Agatha Christie novel. 3

Hostel Ostello Ancona Via Lamaticci 7 T071.42.257, Wwww.ostelloancona.it. Ancona’s hostel is centrally located 100m from the station. Note that there’s a lock-out between 11am and 4.30pm. Dorms without bathroom €17.

Regular buses run along the seafront from the train station to the port, passing the pentagonal Lazzaretto, built within the harbour in the eighteenth century as a quarantine station for immigrants. The port itself is headed by a well-preserved Roman arch, the Arco di Traiano, raised in honour of Emperor Trajan, under whose rule Ancona ﬁrst became a major port. Behind it is the Arco Clementino, a piece of architectural self-congratulation by Pope Clement XII, who made Ancona a free port in the eighteenth century. On a steep hill overlooking the port rises the town’s Romanesque Duomo, while what survives of old Ancona is spread out below. At the foot of the hill is Piazza della Repubblica, from which Via della Loggia leads past the Loggia dei Mercanti, whose Gothic splendours include ﬁgures of medieval dignitaries and horsemen below its elaborately carved windows. Walk along the narrow road into Piazza del Plebiscito and you come to the Museo della Città (mid-June to mid-Sept Tues–Fri 6–10pm, Sat & Sun 10am–1pm & 6–10pm; rest of year Tues & Wed 10am–1pm, Thurs–Sun 10am–1pm & 4–7.30pm; €3.10), with models, paintings, sculptures and original documents showing key events in Ancona from 2000 BC to 2000 AD. Backtracking to Piazza della Repubblica, take a left into Corso Mazzini, where there’s a long sixteenth-century fountain with thirteen spouting heads, all with interesting expressions, attributed to the sixteenth-century sculptor Pellegrino Tibaldi. Equally appealing, a short walk away on Piazzetta Santa Maria (walk straight ahead until you hit the train line, then turn right) is the decrepit Romanesque church of Santa Maria della Piazza, its facade a fantasia of blind loggias and its portal carved with chunky ﬁgures and elegant birds. Behind the church, on Via Pizzecolli, is the Pinacoteca Comunale Francesco Podesti (Tues–Sat 10am–7pm, Sun 10am–1pm & 4–7pm; €4). The highlight here is Titian’s Apparition of the Virgin, a sombre yet impassioned work, with the Virgin appearing to a rotund and ﬂuffy-bearded bishop

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The Town

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Grand Hotel Passetto Via Thaon de Revel 1 T 071.31.307, W www.hotelpassetto.it. Perched on a hill in a quiet part of town, this luxurious establishment offers excellent service, as well as an outdoor pool, a cocktail bar, health club and great views out over the Adriatic. There are often discounts at weekends. 5 Jolly Hotel Ancona Rupi di Via XXIX Settembre 14 T 071.201.171, Wwww.jollyhotels.com. Handily situated if you’re catching the ferry, albeit a bit of a trek up the hill, this provides reliable chain comfort and a restaurant with sea views. Discounts on the website. 2 Milano Via Montebello 1 T 071.201.147, W www.hotelmilanohm.it. A clean, appealing and

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in a stormy sunset sky. There’s also a glorious Holy Conversation by Lotto, and an exquisite yet chilling Madonna and Child by Carlo Crivelli, with a mean-looking Mary pinching the toe of a rather pained Christ. Beyond the gallery is the church of San Francesco delle Scale, named for the steps leading up to it. Titian’s Apparition was painted for this church, but today its most remarkable work is an almost orgasmic Assumption by Lotto. Further up the hill, still on Via Pizzecolli, the Museo Archeologico is not a bad place to spend an hour (Tues–Sun 8.30am–7.30pm; €4), its wacky moulded ceilings vaulting over a collection of ﬁnds ranging from red- and black-ﬁgure Greek craters to a stunning Celtic gold crown. From here, passing the remains of the Roman amphitheatre, you can climb up to the pink-and-white Duomo, San Ciriaco. Though mostly built in a restrained Romanesque style, there’s an outburst of Gothic exuberance in the doorway’s cluster of slender columns, some plain, others twisted and carved. The most memorable feature, however, is a screen along the edge of the raised right transept, one section of which is carved with eagles, fantastic birds and storks entwined in a tree, the other with saints.

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Ancona has some good restaurants, with plenty of family-run ﬁsh places scattered around town. Afterwards, hang out at Piazza Roma, which has several cafés with outdoor tables on the pedestrianized, cobbled square.

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Clarice Via del Trafﬁco 6 T 071.20.29.26. An old-style, family place in a cobbled alleyway off Corso Garibaldi (on the right as you walk up from the sea). It serves traditional, very reasonably priced food, with local dishes such as tagliatelle con vongole e cozze (€8) and a fritto misto for €9. Closed Sat dinner & Sun. Enopolis Corso Mazzini 7 T071.207.1505, W www.enopolis.it. Wonderful, friendly, moderately-priced place for lunch or dinner or just a glass of wine, set in a labyrinth of medieval vaulted cellars and tunnels that burrow their way underground to the sea. Dishes are simple but delicious – try the tagliolini with cherry tomatoes on a bed of grated pecorino, or opt for a lighter plate of raw ﬁsh, or bresaola with rocket. See the website for wine and other gastronomic tours and initiatives. Closed Wed. La Cantineta Via Gramsci 1/C T 071.201.107. Just off Piazza del Plebiscito, this place may look

unprepossessing but their speciality, stoccaﬁsso all’Anconetana (€14), a traditional recipe involving salt cod, is well worth sampling. Closed Mon. La Luna al Passetto T338.853.5005. Take the bus to the beach, Spiaggia di Passetto, at the end of Viale della Vittoria, for excellent seafood, including a ﬁshy, ﬁxed-price degustazione menu for €35 that will probably be more than you can eat. Open mid-May to Aug. Osteria del Pozzo Via Bonda 2/C T071.207.3996. A small, traditional restaurant on a narrow lane off Piazza del Plebiscito, where you can tuck into seafood and pasta dishes. If you call in advance, they’ll make you a brodetto (ﬁsh soup; €20), or oven-baked baccalà (salt cod €12). Closed Sun. Ristorante Giardino Via Filzi Fabio T071.20.29.26. Great seafood specials, such as clams and langoustines, plus oven-ﬁred pizzas at this local favourite. Closed Fri.

Inland: the Esino Valley

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West of Ancona and cutting right across Le Marche, the Esino Valley is broad and bland in the east, but narrows to a dramatic limestone gorge – the Gola di Rossa – just before the town of Fabriano and the border with Umbria. Famous for two things – paper-making and Gentile da Fabriano, the best of the International Gothic artists – Fabriano is now heavily industrialized and a pretty dismal town – one you’re likely to pass straight through on your way to Umbria and Rome. Although Fabriano and Jesi are built up, most of the valley is given over to agriculture and is best known for Verdicchio, a dry white wine produced in the hilltop villages around Jesi. What most visitors come for, however, are the vast Frasassi caves.

Jesi

Cupramontana

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The village of Cupramontana in the hills above Jesi is known as the capital of Verdicchio country. The best time to visit (there are daily buses from Jesi) is on the ﬁrst Sunday in October, when there’s a parade and dancing, and the village streets are lined with stalls of wine and food for the grape festival. Theoretically, this marks the eve of the harvest but, owing to hangovers, it’s usually a couple of days before anyone feels ﬁt enough to start work. A cantina aperta (“open cellar”) day at the end of May gives you the chance to sample the fruits of the wine-makers’ labours – if you’re interested in knowing more about producers and vineyards, contact the local wine association, Assivip (T 0731.703.844, W www.assivip.it). The regional enoteca at Via Federico Conti 5 (daily: April–Oct 11am–1pm & 5–9pm; rest of year 5–9pm; T 0731.213.386) in Jesi’s historic centre (near the top of the escalator) holds tasting sessions of local wines daily.

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Though its industrial development has led to JESI (served by frequent buses from Ancona) being known as “the little Milan of Le Marche”, the historic centre of the town is well preserved. Clinging to a long ridge, it’s fringed by medieval walls and retains a scattering of Renaissance and Baroque palaces. One of the most majestic of these, the Palazzo Pianetti, is home to the Pinacoteca Civica (mid-June to Sept Tues–Sun 10am–8pm; Oct to mid-June Tues–Sat 10am–1pm & 4–7pm, Sun 10am–1pm & 5–8pm; €6). The highlight of its opulent interior is the magniﬁcent 72-metre-long stuccoed, gilded and frescoed gallery – a Rococo fantasy of shells, ﬂowers and festoons framing cloud-backed allegorical ﬁgures. The collection of paintings is best known for some late works by Lorenzo Lotto, including The Annunciation and The Visitation (both circa 1520). Lotto, unlike his contemporaries Titian and Giorgione, chose to be an outsider from the Venetian art-world. As a result his work was long neglected, though his use of colour and the expressive intensity of his portraits is exceptional. A stroll around town takes you past the Teatro Pergolesi, a vast eighteenthcentury opera house in Piazza della Repubblica, named after local-born composer Giovanni Battista Pergolesi. Encircling the town are the massive ramparts, restructured in the fourteenth century and built on top of the foundations of Roman walls – an escalator takes you through the ramparts, several metres thick, from the lower town to the upper town (with steps back down again).

The Grotte di Frasassi

Further up the Esino Valley, just after the Gola di Rossa, a road leads up from Genga train station to the Frasassi gorge, carved by the River Sentino, which was also responsible for creating the 18km of caves beneath it. The largest of the Grotte di Frasassi, or Frasassi caves (guided tours only; March–Oct daily 10am, 11am, noon, 2.30pm, 4pm & 5pm; Nov–Feb Mon–Fri 11am & 3.30pm, Sat & hols 10am, 11am, noon, 2.30pm, 4pm & 5pm; €15.50; W www.frasassi.com), was discovered only in 1971, and just over a kilometre of its caverns and tunnels is now open to the public on tours that last seventy minutes – note that the average temperature inside is 14ºC so bring a jumper. Inevitably, the most remarkable stalactite and stalagmite formations have been named: there’s a petriﬁed Niagara Falls, a giant’s head with a wonderfully Roman proﬁle, a cave whose ﬂoor is covered with candles complete with holders, and a set of organ pipes. The vast Cave of the Great Wind, at 240m high, is one of the biggest in Europe – large enough to contain Milan Cathedral – and has been used for a series of experiments, ranging from sensory deprivation (as a possible

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treatment for drug addicts) to a subterranean version of Big Brother, when a group of people were shut away for a month. There is no public transport to the caves, so you need your own vehicle to get here.

The Conero Riviera

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Just south of Ancona the white cliffs of Monte Conero plunge straight into the sea, forming the northern Adriatic’s most spectacular and enjoyable stretch of coastline. It’s easily accessible, with the major resorts of Portonovo, Sirolo and Numana all linked by bus from Ancona, either from the train station or Piazza Cavour. Sirolo and Numana are now as crowded in July and August as the rest of the Adriatic resorts, the main difference being that their cliff-backed beaches are more picturesque. The most stunning stretch of coast, a series of tiny coves at the base of Monte Conero between Portonovo and Sirolo, is best explored by boat – they leave from both bays. You can go just for the scenery or ask to be dropped off somewhere along the way and be picked up a few hours later. This stretch of coast is the home of Rosso Conero wine, made from the same Montepulciano grape as Chianti, though less well known than its Tuscan counterpart. Rarely found outside Italy, there’s a chance to sample it at the Rosso Conero festival at Camerano, 8km inland from Monte Conero, in the ﬁrst week in September.

Portonovo Only 11km from Ancona, PORTONOVO, nestling beneath Monte Conero, is a pleasant resort made up of a couple of campsites and a clutch of expensive hotels, one of which is sited in the Napoleonic fort that dominates the bay. The main attraction is the unbeatable scenery and the transparent water, and though the main pebbly pay-beach gets very busy in summer, it’s easy enough to escape by walking about 1km to Mezzavalle beach (free) just north of Portonovo bay or clambering over rocks to the few tiny beaches to the south. On the walk south, there’s a lovely Romanesque church, Santa Maria (Tues–Sun 4.30–6.30pm), perched above the shore at the end of an oleander-lined path. There are lots of trails across Monte Conero of varying degrees of difficulty; the tourist office at Sirolo has maps, as do many souvenir shops in the area. Portonovo itself has only a seasonal information office on the main piazza in July and August, the opening hours varying from year to year. Portonovo is linked with Ancona by regular urban buses – from mid-June to the end of August, they run every twenty minutes. Accommodation is stylish rather than budget: Emilia, Via Collina di Portonovo (T 071.801.117, W www .hotelemilia.com; 6 ), is a ﬁve-minute car journey inland – and uphill – from the beach. The walls are covered with a huge contemporary art collection, a legacy of the 1960s when artists paid for their stay with a piece of work. The hotel has a pool and a shuttle service to the beach. Down by the seashore the Fortino Napoleonico (T 071.801.450, W www.hotelfortino.it; 6 ) was built on the orders of Napoleon, to stop the English landing to take fresh water from Monte Conero’s springs. The hotel retains some military touches here and there but is generally rather chi-chi and grand. Otherwise there are two campsites: Campeggio Il Conero (T 071.801.170, W www.campeggioilconero.it; May–Sept) is slightly cheaper; if it’s full, try Camping Comunale La Torre (T 071.801.257; June to mid-Sept). As for eating, there’s no better place to watch the sun go down than from the fashionable beach bar and restaurant Il Clandestino (T 071.801.422; March/April– Sept/Oct; follow the “Torre” signs). On the menu is susci italiano: Italianized sushi using speciality olive oils and balsamic vinegar rather than wasabi and soy sauce.

Sirolo

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| The Conero Riviera

Further south, SIROLO has an old centre of terraced cottages divided by neat cobbled streets. The main square, Piazza Veneto, is on the clifftop, with good views of the coast and Monte Conero. What used to be a quiet bolt-hole is now packed-out on weekends from June to September. In season, buses run roughly every thirty minutes to the two beaches below: Sassi Neri, a wide, long, blackpebbled strand of beach, and San Michele, an attractive, narrow sandy stretch. The tourist office is on Piazza Vittorio Veneto (hours are erratic but usually open Easter to October Sat & Sun 9am–12.30pm & 4–7pm; T 071.933.0611, E [email protected]). There’s a good choice of accommodation: beach lovers should head for Arturo, Via Spiaggia 1 (T 071.933.0975, W www .arturoresidencesirolo.com; May–Oct; 3 ), right on the white shingle strand, with four rooms and two studio apartments with cooking facilities that open out onto small balconies and the sea. It’s a bus ride from Sirolo proper (or a long walk down and then back uphill), but it’s one of the least expensive options in town, with its own restaurant with live music down on the beach. Cars can be left in the public car park above the beach. At the other end of the scale is the gorgeously stylish A Nove Camere, Via Cave 5, occupying an eighteenth-century casa colonica a kilometre outside town along the road to Portonovo (T 071.933.0558, W www .novecamere.it; 4 ). There is no restaurant, but the homely Trattoria Il Conarello across the road does good, inexpensive home-made pasta. Rates include a free shuttle bus to the beach at San Michele. Sirolo’s closest campsite is the Internazionale (T 071.933.0884, W www.campinginternazionale.com; April–Sept), set on a terraced, wooded hillside below Piazza Veneto, within sight and sound of the sea. Eating options include Il Grottino (T 071.933.1218; closed Mon), on Via Ospedale, just off Via Italia, a moderately priced place specializing in ﬁsh under its stone vaults. Otherwise there’s friendly La Taverna (T 071.9331.382; booking advisable; closed Mon in winter), on Piazza Veneto, offering sea views, local wines, home-made ﬁshy pasta dishes (€9–12) and main-course ﬁsh (€15–20). Be sure to try the local cheese, formaggio di Fossa. At Trattoria Sara, Via Corso Italia 9 (T 071.933.0716; closed Feb & Wed in winter), you can sample robust local dishes in a no-nonsense atmosphere; the seafood antipasti (€15) and risotto are especially recommended.

Numana From NUMANA, a small port with a large pebble beach, you can take a boat to the offshore islets of Due Sorelle for a spot of swimming and sunbathing. Tragghettatori del Conero (T 071.933.1795) leave daily at 10am, returning at 1pm (€20); or, if you prefer to sail (with the chance to help out if you so desire) contact Ondanomala (T 347.867.3639), who charge €50 per person for a four-hour trip, or €80 for a full day, in yachts ranging from 35m to 44m. The town’s other attraction is its museum, at Via La Fenice 4 (daily 8.30am– 7pm; €2), ﬁlled mostly with relics of the Piceni tribe, who occupied the area between Senigallia and Pescara from the seventh century BC; the extent to which they were inﬂuenced by the Greeks, who set up a trading post nearby, is clearly visible in the red-and-black pots decorated with scenes from Greek mythology. If you want to stay, try Sorriso, 50m from the beach at Via Flaminia 109 (T 071.933.0645, W www.hotelsorrisonumana.it; 4 ), which has a shady garden, or the Scogliera, Via del Golfo 21 (T 071.933.0622, W www.hotelscogliera.it; 3 ), a modern, appealing place on a small headland at the northern edge of the bay. Both are open April to October. For a bite to eat, La Costarella (Via IV Novembre 38

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T 071.360.0297; closed Tues in winter and Tues lunch in summer) serves marvel-

lous ﬁsh dishes such as steamed scampi with wild onion and a creamy pea puree, or a saffron-scented mussel risotto. A full meal will set you back around €65.

Loreto and around The majority of people who visit LORETO are pilgrims, over four million of whom arrive every year to pay their respects at what they believe is the House of the Virgin Mary where Jesus spent his childhood. To ﬁnd out how the house made its miraculous journey from Nazareth to Italy, see the box below. A few kilometres along the Macerata road is RECANATI, a small town that makes a comfortable living from having been the birthplace of the opera singer Beniamino Gigli and the nineteenth-century poet Giacomo Leopardi, and its coastal satellite, the little resort of Porto Recanati.

The House of the Virgin Mary L E M ARC HE

| Loreto and around

The primitive stone House of the Virgin Mary, with only three walls, sits within a grand and very-far-from-humble basilica (daily: April–Sept 6.15am–8pm; Oct–March 6.45am–7pm), featuring works by such Renaissance luminaries as Bramante, Antonio da Sangallo, Sansovino, Lotto and Luca Signorelli, many of which depict scenes from the life of Mary. Inside the house, pride of place is given to a copy of the famous Black Madonna of Loreto; the medieval original, once crazily attributed to St Luke, was destroyed in a ﬁre in 1921. Pope Julius II contributed the cannon shell hanging on the right-hand wall, attributing his miraculous escape from it to the Madonna of Loreto’s missile-deﬂecting powers. As fascinating as the story is, and as magniﬁcent the setting for the house, for the non-believer the atmosphere of devotional hard-sell here can soon become stiﬂing. Loreto can also be a distressing or moving place, depending on your attitude to faith – between April and October so-called “white trains” bring the sick and terminally ill on three-day missions of hope, the main event being a Mass in Piazza della Madonna, outside the basilica. Do also note that at peak times you may not be able to look around the Holy House as a service is usually being conducted for visiting pilgrims and it is closed from 12.30pm to 2.30pm. Over the centuries, Loreto built up a covetable collection of treasures donated by wealthy believers. One of the most costly and idiosyncratic was a golden

The Madonna of Loreto

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Loreto owes its existence to one of the Catholic Church’s more surreal legends. The story goes that in 1292, when the Muslims kicked the Crusaders out of Palestine, a band of angels ﬂew the house of Mary from Nazareth to Dalmatia, and then, a few years later, whisked it across the Adriatic to Loreto. In the face of growing scepticism, the Vatican came up with the more plausible story that the Holy House was transported to Loreto on board a Crusader ship. Not surprisingly, though, this new theory doesn’t have the same hold on the Catholic imagination, and the Madonna of Loreto continues to be viewed as the patron saint of aviators: Lindbergh took an image of her on his landmark Atlantic ﬂight in 1927, and a medallion inscribed with her image also accompanied the crew of Apollo 9. For centuries she was also credited with military victories – presumably she was thought to have power over projectiles.

baby bequeathed by Louis XIII of France, weighing exactly the same as his long-awaited heir, the future Louis XIV. The basilica was ransacked in 1798 by Napoleonic troops, most of the plunder ending up on the shelves of the Louvre in Paris. Following Napoleon’s demise, subsequent popes managed to retrieve many of the valuables, but the majority were stolen again in 1974 in what became known as the “holy theft of the century”.

The Museo-Pinacoteca

Practicalities

| Loreto and around

Finding accommodation in Loreto can be difficult, particularly during the main pilgrimage seasons of December 8–12 (the anniversary of the legendary ﬂight), August 1–20, September 5–10, Easter, and from Christmas through to January 7. In any case, it’s probably best treated as a day-trip. The town is easily accessible by train from Ancona; the station is some way out of town but connected with the centre by regular buses. If you’re determined to stay it’s worth visiting the cheery tourist office at Via Solari 3 (May–Sept Mon–Sat 9am–1pm & 3–6pm, Sun 9am–1pm; Oct–April Mon 9am–1pm, Tues–Fri 9am–1pm & 4–6pm; T 071.970.276, E [email protected]) for a complete list of accommodation options. The one-star hotels are run by religious orders, among them the Sorelle Francescane, Via Marconi 26 (T 071.970.306; 1 ). For something less spartan, try the pricier, central Hotel Giardinetto (T 071.977.135, W www.hotel giardinetto.it; 1 ), just inside the Porta Romana in a mellow stone building on Corso Boccalini, which also has parking for €8 a night in its nearby garage. The youth hostel is at Via Aldo Moro 46 (T 071.750.1026, W www.ostelloloreto.it), a short walk from Piazza Basile, with beds from €17 to €26. Your best bet for places to eat are the Girarrosto in the Centrale hotel on Via Solari (T 071.970.173), which serves reasonably priced antipasti typical of the Conero peninsula, vincisgrassi and handmade pasta, or, for great pizza, the Garibaldi, further down along the continuation of the same street at Via Vanvitelli 15 (T 071.977.690; closed Wed).

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The items left behind in the treasury after the 1974 burglary are now kept in the Museo-Pinacoteca (Tues–Sun: April–Oct 9am–1pm & 4–7pm; Nov–March 10am–1pm & 3–6pm; donation requested), housed in the west wing of the Palazzo Apostolico on Piazza della Madonna. It shouldn’t be missed, principally for the eight paintings by Lorenzo Lotto that are held here, nearly all dated between 1549 and 1556, including his ﬁnal work, The Presentation in the Temple. Plagued by neurosis and lack of money, Lotto ﬁnally joined the religious community at Loreto, painted some of the canvases on display, and died here in 1556. Looking at The Presentation, with its rotund, crumbling priest and frail, almost skeletal nun, it would appear that he never found much inner peace. Christ and the Adulteress is an even more powerful work, with Christ surrounded by maniacally intense men and a swooning adulteress.

Recanati Devotees of either tenor Beniamino Gigli, or of eighteenth-century poet Leopardi will doubtless make a beeline for Recanati, though most people will ﬁnd little of excitement. On the central Piazza Leopardi, the Museo Beniamino Gigli (Tues– Sun 10am–1pm & 3–6pm; hours usually extended in summer; €2.50), housed in the nineteenth-century Palazzo Comunale, has costumes worn by the great tenor, presents received by him (including a dagger from D’Annunzio), and, best

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of all, a replica of his dressing room. It’s worth dropping in, too, at the patrician house on Via Gregorio XII where the Museo Civico Villa Colloredo Mels (same hours; €4) holds four paintings by Lotto, the highlight of the small collection. Among them there’s a polyptych, a Transﬁguration and a haunting Annunciation, better known as The Madonna of the Cat for the cat scuttling between the Madonna and angel – thought by some critics to represent the devil. Left out of Piazza Leopardi, the main street leads down to the Palazzo Leopardi, the gloomy house where the poet was born in 1798.

Porto Recanati

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| Macerata and around

PORTO RECANATI is the nearest resort to Loreto. Its main street, Corso Matteotti, is headed by the turreted tower of a medieval castle; off it is a tiny old quarter of terraced cottages surrounded by hotels and apartment buildings. Apart from the long sandy beach, limited attractions include a sailing and windsurﬁng school ( June–Aug) – details from the tourist office (summer daily 9am–12.30pm & 4.30–7pm; winter Mon–Fri 9am–12.30pm & 4.30–7.30pm; T 071.979.9084, W www.portorecanatiturismo.it) on the Corso – and various beach bars and discos. If you tire of the beach, pay a visit to the art gallery inside the castle (Mon–Fri 4–7pm; free): among the sixteenth- and seventeenth-century works are pieces by Luca Giordano, a Baroque artist so proliﬁc that he was known as Luca Fa-Presto (“Luca Works-Fast”). The castle itself has been completely restored and in the keep is a collection of statuary excavated from the remains of the nearby Roman city of Potentia. Even better, the castle courtyard has an arena – a wonderfully atmospheric place to see ﬁlms and theatre. Practicalities

There are a couple of mid-range hotels in town: the spruce, seafront Bianchi Nicola, Piazza Brancondi (T 071.979.9016, W www.hotelbianchi.com; 3 ), and the Bianchi Vincenzo at Via Garibaldi 15 (T 071.979.9040; 3 ), in a central but quiet position with one-, two- and three-room apartments overlooking the sea. In high season they’re let by the week only and the price includes your own beach umbrella and sun loungers on the sand. Enzo at Corso Matteotti 21/23 (T 071.759.0734, W www.hotelenzo.it; 4 ) is a glossy four-star. Il Vascello campsite, to the south on Viale della Repubblica (T 071.759.1304), is simple and reasonably convenient. As for eating, Porto Recanati is best known for its brodetto, an indulgent ﬁsh soup cooked with nine varieties of ﬁsh, spiced with saffron and served with squares of toast. One of the best places to try it is the nationally recognized Il Diavolo del Brodetto (Via E. Gardini 10 T 071.979.9251; closed Mon) near the beach, though you should order it in advance.

Macerata and around

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A little-known provincial capital surrounded by Le Marche’s loveliest countryside, MACERATA is one of the region’s liveliest historical towns, thanks to its ancient university. Easy paced and unpretentious, and built entirely of a soft-coloured brick, it’s an ideal place to wind down in the evenings after exploring the province. For fans of opera and ballet, its annual Sferisterio Opera Festival from mid-July to mid-August, held in Italy’s best open-air venue outside Verona, is a must (see box opposite). And if you’re the slightest bit interested in contemporary art, Macerata has a gallery which is reason enough alone for visiting the town.

Opera tickets Book tickets for the Sferisterio Opera Festival at the Biglietteria dell’Arena Sferisterio, Piazza Mazzini 10 (Mon–Sat 9.30am–1pm & 4–8pm; T0733.230.735, Wwww.sferisterio .it). Prices range from €15 in the balcony (not bookable) to €150 (plus 10 percent booking fee) in the front stalls.

Arrival, information and accommodation

Hotels

This agriturismo complex is a pleasant out-of-town option. It’s a 15min drive from Macerata along the SS361 at the km 40,400 marker (there are several buses a day to Passo di Treia from Macerata). The large guest rooms are decorated with antiques and hunting prints, and there are superlative views of the hills from the communal sun terrace, as well as a swimming pool. 2

Hostel Ostello Asilo Ricci Via dell’Asilo 36 T0733.232.515, [email protected]. Housed in a converted nineteenth-century palazzo, this is the top budget choice. It’s centrally located in the old town, right next to the Sferisterio, and offers ninety beds in a choice of dorms or smaller rooms (from €16 including breakfast). They also have a decent restaurant.

| Macerata and around

Arcadia Via P. Matteo Ricci T 0733.235.961, W www.harcadia.it. Aimed mainly at business travellers, so don’t expect anything original decor-wise, this lies on a quiet cobbled street in the historic centre. Rooms come with mini-kitchens and there’s a small bar downstairs. 1 Arena Vicolo Sferisterio T 0733.230.931, W www.albergoarena.com. Run by the same people as the Arcadia, the friendly Arena is tucked away in a small courtyard behind the opera arena and has an interior done out in rustic style, in keeping with its ancient stone structure. 1 Claudiani Via Ulissi 8 T 0733.261.400, W www.hotelclaudiani.it. Macerata’s principal four-star option is located just off Corso Matteotti in the historic centre. Its 40 rooms are “hotel style” rather than “antique palazzo”. 3 Il Vecchio Granaio Località Chiaravalle, Passo di Treia T 0733.843.488, Wwww.ilvecchiogranaio.it.

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Old Macerata is wrapped around a hill, surrounded by modern suburbs that are home to the train station, a ten-minute walk south down Viale Don Bosco and connected to central Piazza della Libertà by frequent buses. Most stop at the Giardini Diaz, directly below the old town on the western side, across Viale Puccinotti; some continue to a more convenient stop, from where it’s a ﬁve-minute climb up stepped Piaggia delle Torre to Piazza della Libertà. The tourist office is on Piazza della Libertà 12 (Mon–Fri 9am–1pm & 3–6pm, Sat 9–1pm; open weekends during the opera season; T 0733.234.807, W www .provincia.mc.it). There are just a handful of hotels in Macerata, and if you’re looking for somewhere inexpensive you should book in advance, especially during the opera season (mid-July to mid-Aug).

The Town Piazza della Libertà is the heart of the old town, an odd square in which the disparate buildings vie for supremacy. The Renaissance Loggia dei Mercanti was supplied by Alessandro Farnese, better known as Pope Paul III, the instigator of many architectural improvements to sixteenth-century Rome. It’s somewhat overshadowed by the bulky Palazzo del Comune and overlooked by the looming Torre del Comune. Perhaps the square’s most striking feature, however, is the mournful brick facade of San Paolo, a deconsecrated seventeenth-century church now used as an exhibition space.

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| Macerata and around

Things pick up along the main passeggiata route, the boutique- and bar-lined Corso della Repubblica, which ends at Piazza Vittorio Veneto. The Pinacoteca Civica, with a collection ranging from the Renaissance perfectionist Crivelli to Ancona-born Futurist, Cagli, is currently closed for restoration, but you might ﬁnd the twentieth-century artworks on show in the Palazzo Ricci (summer daily 10am–1pm & 4–8pm; free), off the square on Via Ricci, more stimulating. There are two thrilling sculptures in the piazza by Francesco Messina – a beautiful nude of a dancer putting on her shoes, and a leaping horse, as well as a good crosssection of work by the Italian Futurists. Seeing the rest of Macerata’s sights doesn’t take long. Via Ricci leads along towards the bleak Piazza Mazzini, below which is the Neoclassical Sferisterio, built in the early nineteenth century as an arena for sphaera, a traditional game that involved bashing a ball with a spiked iron glove. It was also used for bullﬁghts, horse racing and mock jousts until 1921, when the opera festival was inaugurated and the musicians took over. Up Via Ciccarelli from Piazza Mazzini, the town’s Duomo on Piazza Strambi is no architectural showpiece either – a workaday chunk of Baroque, which might have looked slightly more appealing had its facade been ﬁnished. Inside there’s a statue of Macerata’s patron saint, Giuliano, whose path to sainthood sounds like something out of a Sunday tabloid. He arrived home to ﬁnd two people in his bed and, thinking they were his wife and her lover, promptly killed them. Discovering he’d murdered his parents, he hacked one of his arms off in remorse – the severed limb is now kept in a church strongroom, encased in a sleeve of gold and silver. The relic is displayed on request, but a day’s notice is required.

Eating and drinking Macerata’s student population ensures that there’s a good supply of cheap and interesting places to eat and drink, and there are some excellent, more upmarket restaurants serving the specialities of the region too. Da Ezio Via Crescimbeni 65 T 0733.232.366. A good, cheap trattoria, with daily specials: gnocchi (€5) on Thurs, ﬁsh (€7) on Fri. Vincisgrassi (€6) is served every day. Closed Sun. Da Rosa Via Armaroli Leopoldo 17 T 0733.260.124. Serves beautiful home-made pasta (try the ravioli with ricotta and lemon) and, in season, funghi porcini and trufﬂes. You can eat well for under €25 and house wine comes at €6 per half-litre. Closed Sun. Da Secondo Via Pescheria Vecchia T 0733.260.912. If you want to indulge yourself, head to Macerata’s most famous restaurant, its walls plastered with historic photos of

the town. They do a fabulous vincisgrassi (the rich Marche version of lasagne; €9), along with excellent roast lamb or pigeon with potatoes (€12–14). Closed Mon. Da Silvano Piazza delle Torre, just off Piazza della Libertà T0733.260.216. This bustling, atmospheric place serves good oven-ﬁred pizzas to the crowds heading to and from the nearby Sferisterio. Closed Mon and most of May. Il Pozzo Via Costa 5, off Piazza Oberdan. A popular, alternative pub-birreria dating back to the seventies where you can eat simple local food and listen to live and recorded jazz.

Around Macerata

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With its hills rising from the coast and rippling towards the Apennines, its medieval villages and scattering of Romanesque abbeys and churches, the area around Macerata is well worth your time. Most villages we list below are well served by bus (approximately hourly) from Macerata’s terminal on Piazza Pizzarello (T 0733.261.594). You can get there and back from most places by bus within a day, though you may be charmed into sleeping over.

The Chienti Valley

West of Macerata

| Macerata and around

Heading southwest of Macerata towards the Sibillini mountain range, you might stop off brieﬂy at the little town of TOLENTINO to see the Basilica di San Nicola (daily 9am–noon & 3–6.30pm). Its west front is a real feast for the eyes – a curly Baroque facade with a grinning sun instead of a rose window and a fancily twisting Gothic portal topped by an oriental-style arch enclosing a dragon-slaying saint. Inside, the most intriguing feature is the Cappellone di San Nicola, a large chapel whose Gothic frescoes create a kaleidoscope of colourful scenes from the life of Christ. Just east of Tolentino is the imposing, fourteenth-century Castello della Rancia (Tues–Sun 10am–1pm & 3–7pm; €4). This vast fort was the main grain store for the Cistercian abbey of Fiastra (see p.608) back in the twelfth century. Transformed into a castle in the fourteenth century, it became the focal point for a number of armed clashes, at one time harbouring the notorious Renaissance mercenary Sir John Hawkwood. In summer it hosts a rock music festival.

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From Macerata the road and rail lines run east to the coast through the Chienti Valley, taking in some of the region’s most characteristic hill-towns and two of its ﬁnest churches. About 10km from Macerata, close to the turn-off for Morrovalle, is the Romanesque church of San Claudio al Chienti, approached along a cypress-lined avenue, which has been carefully restored after years of use as a farm outbuilding. Above San Claudio is the hill-village of MORROVALLE, skirted by a stepped street that disappears through arched gates. Hemmed inside the main piazza at the top of the village is the squat Palazzo del Podestà, where Italy’s ﬁrst pawnshop was set up by St Bernard in 1428. The building next to it is the Palazzo Lazzarini, seat of the ruling family who survived their internecine battle for the privilege of ruling Morrovalle. The palazzo, though built in the fourteenth century, incorporates an earlier Romanesque-Gothic portal, possibly taken from a local church. Back in the valley, road and rail pass the ex-monastery of Santa Maria a Piè di Chienti (daily 8am–8pm; free) just after the fork for Montecosaro. It was built by Cluniac monks who came to the area in the tenth century, draining the ﬂood-prone river into channels and creating fertile land out of what had been a fever-ridden marsh. Situated close to the coast, the monastery was vulnerable to Saracen invasions, so the monks encircled it with ditches, which could be ﬂooded in the event of a raid. The monastery survived until the early nineteenth century, when it was destroyed by Napoleonic troops, and now all that remains is the church itself.

San Severino Marche

Some 12km northwest of Tolentino lies the ancient town of SAN SEVERINO MARCHE, a pretty little place whose modern centre converges on an unusual elliptical square, Piazza del Popolo, surrounded by porticoes. Just above the piazza on Via Salimbeni, the town’s art gallery, known as the Pinacoteca Tacchi Venturi after a local historian ( July & Aug Tues–Sun 9am–1pm & 4–6pm; Oct–June Tues–Sat 9am–1pm; €2), is as good a reason as any for a visit, with a memorable assembly of pieces, including works by Paolo Veneziano and Vittore Crivelli, as well as the Salimbeni brothers, the region’s undervalued early Renaissance painters who were born and worked in San Severino in the ﬁfteenth century; they are represented by delicate and expressive frescoes detached from local churches and the wooden polyptych The Marriage of St Catherine. Other works by the Salimbeni brothers adorn two of San Severino’s churches. One of these, the ancient San Lorenzo in Dolìolo, at the top of Via Salimbeni, looks slightly odd thanks to a medieval brick tower standing on top of its stone

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portal. The Salimbeni frescoes, illustrating the story of St Andrew, are on the vault of the tenth-century crypt. The back part of the crypt is thought to be a pagan temple dating back to the time of the refugees from Septempeda (see below). The other church – actually the old cathedral – is up in Castello, the upper part of San Severino, a long and steep walk, although there are occasional buses from the main square. The Duomo Vecchio was founded in the tenth century but has a Romanesque-Gothic facade, simple Gothic cloisters, and a much rebuilt interior, featuring Salimbeni frescoes in the baptistry. Finds in the nearby Museo Archeologico on Via Castello al Monte (Sat & Sun 10am–1pm & 5–7pm; €2) were excavated from the Roman valley town of Septempeda, whose inhabitants, driven out by barbarian invasions in the sixth century, escaped up here to found San Severino. For a congenial place to stay above town in the Castello, head for the Due Torri, Via San Francesco 21 (T 0733.645.419, W www.duetorri.it; 2 ), which is run by the third generation of the Severini family; it has spotless bedrooms in an old stone wing with tiled ﬂoors and simple furnishings. There’s a popular restaurant attached, which doubles as a shop, selling local delicacies, wines and spirits. L E M ARC HE

South of Macerata: the road to Sarnano

With the Monti Sibillini on the horizon, snowcapped for most of the year, the route south from Macerata towards the spa town of Sarnano ranks as one of Le Marche’s most beautiful.

| Macerata and around

The Abbazia di Fiastra

Some 10km along the road, on the edge of a dense wood, is the Romanesque-Gothic complex of the Abbazia di Fiastra (mid-June to mid-Sept daily 10am–12.30pm & 3–7pm; mid-Sept to mid-June Sat, Sun and public hols 10am–12.30pm & 3–5.30pm; €4 for abbey and museum), a Cistercian abbey with a simple, pantiled brick cloister and monastic quarters adjoining a grandiose aisled church. The abbey complex is a popular day out, with a steady stream of visitors looking round the building and its grounds, now a nature reserve. The trails through the woods are a popular Sunday stroll, and you should take time to see the Museo della Civiltà Contadina (open summer only, same times as abbey; €1 for museum or €4 joint ticket), a folk museum ﬁlled with agricultural and weaving equipment laid out in the abbey’s low-vaulted outhouses. Urbisaglia

A ﬁve-minute bus ride away is the site of Urbisaglia (same hours as abbey; guided tours €2 for a single monument, €5 for three and €7 for everything). Urbs Salvia, as it was known, was one of Le Marche’s most important Roman towns and home to 30,000 people until it was sacked by Alaric in 409 AD. The Lourdes of its day (Urbs Salvia means “city of health”), its fame continued into the Middle Ages, when Dante invoked it as an example of a city fallen from glory in his Paradiso. So far an amphitheatre, theatre, baths and parts of the walls have been excavated, and frescoes of hunting scenes have been discovered in a cryptoportico (underpassage). The theatre was one of the largest in Italy, and could seat 12,600 spectators. Up in modern Urbisaglia, there’s also a small archeological museum (same hours), visitable on the same ticket, containing ﬁnds from the site. San Ginesio 608

South of Urbisaglia, the hill-town health resort of SAN GINESIO is justiﬁably known as the balcony of the Sibillini: the panoramic view from the gardens of the Colle Ascarano, just outside the town walls, stretches from the Adriatic and

Monte Conero to the Sibillini mountains and the highest of the Apennines, the Gran Sasso in Abruzzo. In the town itself, the central piazza is dominated by one of Le Marche’s most unusual churches, the Collegiata della Annunziata, whose late-Gothic facade is decorated with ﬁligree-like terracotta moulding. Rising above it are two campaniles, one capped by an onion dome and the other by what looks like a manicured cactus. Gothic frescoes adorn some of the chapels, and the crypt has frescoes by the Salimbeni brothers. Sarnano

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| Macerata and around

SARNANO, south of San Ginesio, was once a poor and virtually abandoned village. In the last couple of decades or so, however, the town has woken up to the potential of its thermal springs – believed since Roman times to have wideranging curative properties – and has begun to develop itself into a spa resort and weekend day-trip destination. The medieval core, coiling in concentric circles around a gentle hill, has been subtly restored, and though it’s now more of a showpiece than a living village, its narrow interconnecting cobbled streets and picturesque old houses make it an ideal place for an undemanding day’s wandering. On the last weekend in May until mid-June every year, an arts and crafts fair draws in the crowds, with work by Italian craftsmen on sale at scores of temporary shops and exhibition spaces around the historic centre. It’s worth getting a map from the tourist office at Largo Enrico Ricciardi 1, just off Piazza della Libertà in the new town (Mon, Wed, Fri & Sat 9am–1pm, Tues & Thurs 9am–1pm & 3–6pm; T 0733.657.144, W www.sarnano.com), before heading up through Porta Brunforte into old Sarnano. Just inside the gate is the fourteenth-century church of San Francesco, decorated with Palestinian plates, thought to have been brought to Sarnano by souvenir-collecting Crusaders. On Via G. Leopardi is the ﬁne Pinacoteca e Museo Civici (Sat & Sun only, hours erratic; call T 0733.659.911), the major item being a Madonna and Child by Vittore Crivelli. Continue climbing to the summit of the town and you hit Piazza Alta, once the political and religious centre and lined by ﬁne medieval palazzi, as well as the thirteenth-century church of Santa Maria di Piazza, whose ﬁfteenth-century frescoes include a ﬁgure known as the Madonna with Angels, for the host of celestial musicians and choristers surrounding her. The wooden statue of Christ on the altar has been saddled with one of popular tradition’s strangest myths – if it’s about to rain, his beard is supposed to grow. On the second Sunday in August, Santa Maria is the starting-point for Sarnano’s annual medieval knees-up, or palio – though apart from the costumes and processions, it has more in common with a kids’ sports day, featuring a tug-of-war, pole climbing, and a race in which the competitors have to balance jugs of water on their heads. Fermo

Southeast of Macerata, a short distance from the coast, is the attractive old town of FERMO. Its web of streets is lined with graceful medieval and Renaissance buildings, erupting out of which is a wooded peak crowned with a RomanesqueGothic cathedral. The town’s most spectacular monument, however, is hidden from view – a ﬁrst-century underground complex of thirty ﬁlter beds known as the Cisterne Romane (daily 10am–1pm & 3.30–7.30pm, Aug open Thurs until 11.30pm; €3), originally designed to supply the Roman imperial ﬂeet with fresh water when it docked at the nearby port. It’s worth joining one of the guided tours (no additional charge) that leave Fermo’s small museum every hour; the night tours are especially atmospheric. Entered from Via Aceti, off the main Piazza del Popolo, the cistern is something akin to a ﬂooded cathedral, with its wellpreserved vault and arches subtly lit and reﬂected in the dark, still water.

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Monti Sibillini National Park With a mountain lake reddened by the blood of the devil, a narrow pass known as the gorge of hell and a cave reputed to have been the lair of an enchantress, the Monti Sibillini are not only the most beautiful section of the Apennines, but they teem with ancient legends too. Wolves, chamois and brown bear all have a home in the national park and even if you don’t come across one of these, you may be lucky enough to see an equally rare golden eagle instead. The best way to experience the park is by walking, cycling or horseriding, and if you’re up for a challenge there’s Il Grande Anello dei Sibillini (The Great Sibylline Ring), 120km of signposted footpaths that take nine days to walk, or four to ﬁve days to cover by mountain bike. Maps and accommodation details, including several new mountain refuges, are listed on W www.sibillini.net. There are shorter trails too, through meadows ﬁlled with wild ﬂowers, for which the most agreeable bases are the medieval hill-villages that crown the Sibillini foothills. Most villages are served by buses, but they’re generally few and far between and it’s best to have your own transport. L E M ARC HE

Amándola

| Monti Sibillini National Park

The small village of AMÁNDOLA is fairly easy to get to on public transport, making it a good base for seeing the region. Its main sight is its Museo Antropogeograﬁco ( July & Aug daily 9.30am–12.30pm & 3.30–6.30pm; rest of year by appointment only, call T 338.690.4069; €5), housed in the ex-convent of the church of San Francesco and packed full of interactive exhibits about the wildlife and legends of the park. Amándola’s other attraction is an excellent week-long international theatre festival (W www.amandolateatro.it) in the ﬁrst week of September. Low on pretension and high on participation, the festival overcomes language barriers with mime and movement performances and workshops – the atmosphere is irresistible, and it’s well worth sticking around for the whole week. Otherwise, Amándola is a great place to unwind after a day’s hiking in the Sibillini. There’s an excellent nine-room guesthouse in a converted eighteenthcentury palazzo, the Casa per Ferie Fillide, Via Indipendenza 73 (T 0736.847.294, W www.montisibillini.it; 1 ; Oct–Easter for groups of ﬁfteen or more only). Also recommended is the very welcoming B&B Il Palazzo, Via Indipendenza 59–61 (T 0736.847.082 or 0333.331.0878, W www.palazzopecci.com; 2 ), in a ﬁfteenthcentury mansion two minutes’ walk from the main square.

Montefortino

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A few kilometres south of Amándola, the hill-village of MONTEFORTINO is perhaps a prettier base, though less well served by buses and touristy in season. Primarily a place to wander and admire the Sibillini views, the town also has a small Pinacoteca (open on request; call T 0736.859.491; free), whose chief attractions are a polyptych by Alemanno – a follower of the Crivelli who clearly took as much delight in painting embroidery as they did – and an arresting twelfth-century portrait of a man with a pipe and candle emerging from the darkness. Appropriately, given the necromantic traditions of this area, there’s also an eighteenth-century painting of Circe with her occult apparatus. A lovely place to stay in the historic centre is the French-owned B&B A Tabart Inn, Via Papiri 24 (T 0736.859.054 or 339.122.6465, W www.tabart-inn.com; two-night minimum stay; 3 ), a sixteenth-century house with three light, spacious and elegant beamed rooms and lovely terraces overlooking the mountains. The owner believes in letting each set of guests have the B&B to themselves, even if

Lago di Pilato According to the legend surrounding the Lago di Pilato, Pontius Pilate’s body was dispatched from Rome on a cart pulled by two wild oxen who climbed up into the Sibillini and ditched the corpse in the water here. In the Middle Ages it became a favourite haunt for necromancers seeking dialogues with the devil – stones inscribed with occult symbols have been found on its shores. Deciding they wanted to be rid of the magicians, one night the local lords put soldiers on guard around its shores. Nothing happened until the morning, when the soldiers discovered that the lake had turned red; assuming it was with the devil’s blood, they ﬂed. What in fact turned the water red was a mass of minuscule red Chircephalus marchesonii, a species of ﬁsh indigenous to Asia; a shoal was stranded here millions of years ago when the sea receded, and its descendants still thrive.

you are just a couple, so do book ahead. The nicest restaurant is Da Benito, Via Tenna 9 (T 0736.859.515; closed Mon), a wonderful place in autumn to eat wild mushrooms and truffles.

| Monti Sibillini National Park

A short way south of Montefortino, MONTEMÓNACO, a walled medieval village of cobbled streets and yellow stone houses, is close to some of the Sibillini’s most legendary sights. One, the Grotta della Sibilla (Sibyl’s Cave), whose occupant gave her name to the mountain group, is a two-hour walk west from the village, though periodic rockfalls can block the way. The other, through the Gola dell’Infernaccio (Gorge of Hell), a few kilometres southwest of the village, is an easy and spectacular hike in summer. You can take a bus from Montefortino to the Infernaccio fork, from where it’s a three-hour walk to the gorge along a well-deﬁned path. The approach through a narrow valley is atmospheric: silent, except for the distant roar of the River Tenna, with memorial plaques on the cliffs at the entrance to commemorate climbers who’ve died scaling the walls. The path squeezes its way under jagged rocks, accompanied by the deafening sound of raging water. Once past a second bridge it forks, the lower path leading to the tranquil source of the Tenna while the upper brings you, in about thirty minutes, to the Hermitage of San Leonardo, until recently occupied by a solitary monk.

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Montemónaco

Practicalities

Back down in the valley, Agriturismo La Cittadella (T 0736.856.361, W www .cittadelladeisibillini.it; 2 ), 2.5km down a dirt road from the northern end of Montemónaco, is a peaceful place for an overnight stay; their restaurant serves great local dishes in season such as tagliatelle with funghi porcini and coniglio in porchetta (rabbit cooked with ham and fennel), and you can buy apples and chestnuts in season. If you’re going to attempt a climb up Monte Sibilla, the Rifugio Sibilla 1540 ( June to mid-July & mid- to end Sept Sat & Sun; mid-July to mid-Sept daily; T 0736.856.422, 338.429.2399 or 338.469.5073, W www.rifugio sibilla1540.com; 1 ) is the best base. It lies about 6km east of Montemónaco along the path that eventually leads to the cave of the sibyl Grotta della Sibilla (see above). As the path is only barely visible you’d be advised to take the Kompass Monti Sibillini map, which can be bought locally. To do the best of the Sibillini treks, however, you need to drive or take a taxi 8km east from Montemónaco to the quiet village of Foce. The hike up to Lago di Pilato (see box above) and Pizzo del Diavolo (Devil’s Peak) is fairly tough; allow a whole day, take the Kompass map and only attempt it in good conditions during the high

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summer months as the snow doesn’t melt until June. Here, guarding the entrance to Umbria, stands Monte Vettore (2476m), the highest of the Sibillini peaks.

Ascoli Piceno and the coast

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Located between the Monti Sibillini and the coast, the pleasant town of ASCOLI PICENO is off the radar of most tourists. This seems odd considering it has plenty of grand architecture and a lovely café-lined central square that’s among the most pleasant in Le Marche. At Mardi Gras it hosts the region’s most ﬂamboyant carnival and in August its streets are given over to the Quintana, a medieval festival that incorporates a spectacular joust. If that wasn’t enough, Ascoli’s restaurants and food stalls are the proud purveyors of olive all’ascolana (fried breadcrumbcrusted olives stuffed with veal), one of the tastiest, if not exactly healthiest, of the region’s many gastronomic specialities. The town owes its existence to a woodpecker that led a band of nomadic shepherds to the wedge of land between two rivers on which the city now stands. At least, that’s one of the many legends to have grown up around the origins of Ascoli and the Piceni tribe for whom it is named; other versions replace the woodpecker-guide with Diomedes or the son of Saturn, and the nomadic shepherds with veterans of the Trojan War or Greek traders. Whatever the truth, the Piceni were real enough, and the relics of their civilization suggest that they

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| Ascoli Piceno and the coast

Le Sorgenti

were a pretty emotional and impetuous lot: writing curses on missiles, gauging grief by measuring the volume of tears, and losing a critical battle against the Romans when they interpreted an earthquake as a sign of divine wrath and abandoned the ﬁght. Today the Ascolani seem initially to be reserved, as if in obedience to the aphorisms urging moderation, hard work and reticence that are inscribed on many of their houses.

Arrival, information and accommodation Ascoli’s train station is just east of the town centre, ten minutes’ walk along Viale Indipendenza and Corso Vittorio Emanuele. Buses from other towns stop outside the train station. The tourist office is on the ground ﬂoor of the Palazzo Comunale (daily 9am–6.30pm; T 0736.253.045). Ascoli Piceno has enough attractions to merit an overnight stay and a fair number of decent accommodation options, despite its relatively un-touristy status. The tourist office has a list of B&Bs. Hotels

Hostel Ostello de’ Longobardi Via Soderini 26 T0736.261.862, W www.aighostels.com. The town’s most affordable option is this youth hostel located in a spooky medieval tower bang in the historic centre, open year-round. Dorm beds €15.

The Town

| Ascoli Piceno and the coast

rolling countryside 7km north of Ascoli. Rooms are simple and rustic, the food is made from fresh local ingredients (including home-pressed olive oil) and there are plenty of local walks to enjoy. 2 Palazzo Guiderocchi Via Cesare Battisti 3 T0736.244.011, W www.palazzoguiderocchi.com. If you want to pay for a little extra comfort, this restored palace in the old town offers huge rooms with high ceilings and every facility – it often has good deals in low season, and has rooms in several more functional sister hotels (2 ) around town. 3

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Cantina dell’Arte Rua della Lupa 8 T 0736.255.620, W www.cantinadellarte.it. Great-value, cheerful, well-kept hotel in the centre with eleven small rooms and ﬁve apartments in an annexe, along with a very reasonably priced, bustling restaurant. 1 Cento Torre Via Mazzoni 6 T 0736.255.123, W www.centotorri.com. Fourteen comfortable modern rooms aimed at afﬂuent tourists and business travellers in the heart of the old city. All mod cons, but little to indicate, once inside, that you are within a building dating back to the thirteenth century. 5 Le Sorgenti Lago di Castel Trosino T0736.263.725, Wwww.agriturismolesorgenti.org. One of several good agriturismi within easy reach of town, this occupies a restored eighteenth-century villa set in

Ascoli has a compact centre, surrounded by largely intact walls and with its areas of interest divided into four main zones. Piazza del Popolo is the place to get the feel of the town, while its small number of Roman remains and its churches and museums are scattered throughout the old centre. Piazza del Popolo and beyond

The central Piazza del Popolo is the stage for the evening passeggiata. Paved with gleaming travertine and ﬂanked by Renaissance porticoes, it’s the setting for two of the city’s ﬁnest buildings, the pleasantly jumbled Palazzo dei Capitani del Popolo and the reﬁned Romano-Gothic San Francesco. The former dates from the late twelfth century, when the free comune of Ascoli was at its height. That anything of the building has survived is something of a miracle, for in 1535 a certain Giambattista Quieti set it on ﬁre with the intention of incinerating a rebel barricaded inside. The interior was gutted but enough remained of the facade for a swift facelift to suffice. Rectangular windows were slotted into medieval arches, and a grand portal affixed, on top of which sits a statue of Pope Paul III, who reintroduced peace by replacing Quieti with a neutral outsider.

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When they weren’t slaughtering each other, at least some of Ascoli’s rulers found time to collect public money in order to ﬁnance city improvements. The sixteenth-century loggias that enclose the piazza are one of the results – each of a slightly different width, to correspond to the size of the contribution made by the various merchants and shopkeepers who worked here. The church of San Francesco, on the other hand, was ﬁnanced by the sale of a Franciscan convent outside the city, after Pope Alexander IV had given the Franciscans permission to move within its walls. Construction started in 1258 but wasn’t completed until 1549, when the low cupola was added. It’s a somewhat restrained church, with little to seize the attention except for the intricate west portal on Via del Trivio, but a good place to take a break from the heat and bustle of Ascoli’s narrow streets. Adjoining the south side of the church and overlooking Corso Mazzini is the sixteenth-century Loggia dei Mercanti. Formerly the scene of commercial wheeling and dealing, there are still niches cut into the back wall in which bricks could be checked for size before being purchased. The cloister to the north of the church is now the site of a daily market. Continuing along Corso Mazzini, Ascoli’s newest museums are off to the right: the Galleria d’Arte Contemporanea (Tues–Sun 10am–5pm; €5, or €8 with Museo dell’Arte Ceramica and Pinacoteca Civica), where the beautifully-displayed permanent collection includes works by Filippo de Pisis, Lucio Fontana, Hans Hartung and Gino Severini. It also offers a compelling introduction to the work of local artist Osvaldo Licini, a friend of Modigliani and Picasso, who once saved Picasso from being beaten up by turning on his attackers with the walking stick he had used since being injured in World War I. The Museo dell’Arte Ceramica (same hours and ticket) around the corner is of more limited appeal, though the setting, in the ex-convent of San Tommaso, is enchanting. San Vincenzo and around

Via del Trivio continues up towards Piazza Ventidio Basso, the medieval commercial centre of town, of interest for its two churches. Santi Vincenzo e Anastasio is Ascoli’s most distinctive church, with a ﬁfteenth-century chessboard facade that was once ﬁlled out with frescoes. Beneath the mainly eleventh-century body of the building is a primitive crypt erected over a spring that was supposed to have leprosy-curing properties. Although the plunge bath is still there, the spring was diverted elsewhere in the last century. Across the square, San Pietro Martire is a far less appealing building, erected by Dominican monks in the thirteenth century in order not to be outdone by their Franciscan rivals down the road. It’s as austere and intimidating as Saint Peter the Martyr himself, who, between founding Dominican communities like that at Ascoli, gained such a reputation as a persecutor of religious sects that he became the patron of inquisitors after his murder by a couple of so-called heretics. The dark Via Soderini, leading west out of the square, forms the spine of Ascoli’s medieval riverside quarter. Lined with buildings out of which the occasional defensive tower sprouts, it’s an evocative street, giving a clear idea of how rigorously the town was defended. Tiny streets fan out from it, many of them spanned by covered passages that in times of siege served as escape routes and as stations from which to pour oil down onto the heads of attackers. Of the defensive tower houses, one of the best preserved is the Palazzetto Longobardi, a virtually windowless twelfth-century building, now converted into a youth hostel (see p.613). After exploring the quarter you can cut through to the river and the thirteenthcentury gate, the Porta Solestà, from which a Roman bridge – one of Italy’s largest and most impressively preserved – spans the river. An underpassage tunnels through it.

San Gregorio and around

There’s little else of Roman Ascoli to see, except some sparse remains of a Roman theatre, on the southwest edge of town, close to the Roman Porta Gemina, or twin gate, at the beginning of the road to Rome. From the theatre a road leads up to the Parco della Rimembranza, with a great rooftop view of the town, and on to the steep and picturesque Via Pretoriana, whose small craft shops make it a good hunting ground for gifts. Close by, the fourteenth-century church of San Gregorio was ingeniously built around the remains of a Roman temple. Incorporated into the facade are two lofty Corinthian columns, originally imported by the Romans from Greece, and patches of opus reticulatum (diamond brickwork). In the adjoining convent is a tiny revolving door with the inscription Qui si depositano gli innocenti (“Here you deposit the innocent”), designed so that parents could remain anonymous when leaving unwanted children to the care of priests and nuns. The Duomo, Pinacoteca and Museo Archeologico

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| Ascoli Piceno and the coast

Ascoli’s Baroque Duomo (daily 8.30am–12.30pm & 4.30–7.30pm, may close earlier in winter) is situated on the east side of Piazza Arringo. The ﬂashy interior holds chandeliers suspended on strings of illuminated beads, an apse painted with a fake Persian carpet and a cupola decorated with late nineteenth-century frescoes of obscure Ascolani saints. In the midst of this, the polyptych by Carlo Crivelli in the Cappella del Sacramento is worth seeking out. The most arresting of the ten panels is the central pietà, in which the haggard expression of Mary, the torment that distorts Christ’s face, and the Magdalene’s horror as she examines the wound in his hand are given heightened impact by the strict semicircular composition. Adjacent to the Duomo is the Palazzo Comunale containing the Pinacoteca Civica (Tues–Fri 10am–5pm, Sat & Sun 10am–7pm; €8 including Museo della Ceramica and Galleria d’Arte Contemporanea), which holds more works by Crivelli. If you want to know more about ancient Ascoli, visit the evocative Museo Archeologico (Tues–Sun 8.30am–7.30pm; €2), across the square. The collection includes Piceni projectiles inscribed with curses against their Roman enemies, jewellery, heavy bronze rings that were placed on the stomachs of dead women, and small test-tube-like containers used to assess the quality of grief by measuring the volume of tears.

Eating and drinking You don’t have to spend a lot to eat well in Ascoli. For a drink, there are many places to linger over a coffee or a cocktail in Piazza del Popolo. Cantina dell’Arte Rua della Lupa 8 T 0736.255.620, W www.cantinadellarte.it. Lively, popular place for down-home dishes (€5–9) such as risotto with funghi porcini and gnocchetti with cream, sausage, radicchio and trufﬂe cream. The best deal is the €13 lunch menu. Closed Wed. Laliva Piazza della Viola 13 T0736.259.358. Chef Marinella Filiponia offers up Ascoli’s most imaginative cooking with modern takes on Marchegiana cuisine, including dishes such as Le Sibille, lasagne baked with parma ham, herbs, artichokes and chilli (€7.50), and seasonallychanging degustazione menus at a very reasonable €30 per person. Closed Tues dinner & Wed.

Meletti Piazza del Popolo 20. Among the Piazza del Popolo bars, the famous Art Nouveau Meletti that makes its own superb amaro and anisette liqueur, and is lined with mahogany cases ﬁlled with obscure bottles, as well as serving up delightful sweets and pastries. Migliori Piazza Arringo 2 T 0736.250.042. A delightful three-in-one experience comprising a sit-down restaurant, where you can eat local specialities such as the grande fritta – deep-fried lamb cutlets, vegetables and olive all’ascolana for €12 – a well-stocked delicatessen and a small stall out front where you can purchase big bags of hot stuffed olives for €4. Closed Mon.

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The Ascoli coast Easily accessible by bus or train from Ascoli Piceno, San Benedetto del Tronto is the most extravagant of Le Marche’s resorts, known as the “Riviera delle Palme” for the ﬁve thousand palms that shade its promenade. With 6km of sandy white beach, it makes a nice break on a hot afternoon if you’re in Ascoli and fancy a swim. There are over a hundred hotels, details of which are available at W www.le-marche.com or from the tourist office on Viale delle Tamerici (Mon, Wed & Fri 9am–1pm, Tues & Thurs 9am–1pm & 3–6pm, Sat & Sun hours vary; longer hours in summer; T 0735.592.237). Note that most places insist on full board in August. Grottammare, a few minutes further up the coastal train line, is a lower-key resort on the same model, but without San Benedetto’s panache. If you have a car head instead the 8km inland to La Campana, at Contrada Menocchia 39, 6km from the hill-town of Monteﬁore d’Aso (T 0734.939.012, W www.lacampana.it; 3 ), an agriturismo complex made up of a farm that breeds sheep and rabbits, and old stone buildings containing guest rooms. The swimming pool is on a terrace overlooking the Adriatic, while meals (bed and breakfast May–Dec, half- and full board late July to late Aug) are made from home-produced vegetables and meat. L E M ARC HE

Travel details

| Travel details

Trains Ancona to: Bologna (every 40min; 2hr 5min); Jesi (18 daily; 20–25min); Loreto (every 30min; 15–20min); Porto San Giorgio (hourly; 30–45min); Rome (10 daily; 3–4hr); San Benedetto (every 30min; 1hr 10min). Ascoli Piceno to: San Benedetto del Tronto (16 daily; 35min–1hr). Macerata to: San Severino Marche (every 30–40min; 25–45min); Tolentino (hourly; 20min). Pésaro to: Ancona (every 30min–1hr; 35–50min); Fabriano (17 daily; 1hr 30min–2hr 30min).

Buses Extra buses may be provided in high summer to seaside resorts. Amándola to: Ascoli Piceno (4 daily Mon–Sat; 1hr 10min); Fermo (4 daily; 1hr); Montefortino (5 daily; 10min); Montemónaco (5 daily; 20–25min); Porto San Giorgio (4 daily; 1hr 15min); Sarnano (7 daily; 30min). Ancona to: Jesi (every 30 min; 45min); Loreto (6 daily Mon–Sat; 1hr 20min); Macerata (10 daily; 1hr 30min); Numana (16 daily; 40min); Porto Recanati (5 daily Mon–Sat; 1hr 5min); Portonovo (mid-June to Aug every 20min; 25–30min); Sirolo (16 daily; 35min). Ascoli Piceno to: Amándola (4 daily Mon–Sat; 1hr 10min); Montefortino (5 daily Mon–Sat; 616

1hr 20min); Montemónaco (5 daily Mon–Sat; 1hr 30min); Rome (5 daily; 3hr); San Benedetto del Tronto (every 30min; 1hr). Macerata to: Abbazia di Fiastra (12 daily; 10min); Amándola (6 daily; 1hr 15–20min); Ancona (10 daily; 1hr 30min); Loreto (10 daily; 50min); Naples (1 daily; 5hr 30min); Porto Recanati (11 daily; 1hr); Recanati (11 daily; 35min); Rome (5 daily; 4hr); San Severino (5 daily; 35min); Sarnano (12 daily; 55min–1hr 25min); Tolentino (12 daily; 30min); Urbisaglia (12 daily; 10min); Visso (5 daily; 1hr 45min). Pésaro to: Fabriano (3 daily; 2hr); Fano (every 30min; 15min); Gradara (hourly; 55min); Sassocorvaro (5 daily; 1hr); Torrette (7 daily; 15min); Urbino (approx every 30min Mon–Sat, 6 Sun; 1hr). Porto San Giorgio to: Fermo (every 30min; 15–20min). San Leo to: Rimini (2 daily; 45min). Urbino to: Fano (8 daily; 1hr 10–15min); Pésaro (approx every 30 min Mon–Sat, 6 on Sun; 1hr).

Ferries Ancona to: Zadar/Bozara, Hvar/Bol and Split, Stari Grad and Korcula, Croatia (summer 4–5 weekly; winter 2 weekly; ferry 8–9hr; catamaran from 3hr); Igoumenitsa, Greece (at least 1 daily; 15hr 30min); Patras, Greece (at least 1 daily; 21hr); Çesme, Turkey (April–Nov 1 weekly, Sat departure; 43–55hr).

ROME AND L AZ I O

H

Rome and Lazio

|

AUSTRIA

SWITZERLAND 4 3

HUNGARY

SLOVENIA CROATIA

7

BOSNIAHERZEGOVINA

FRANCE

8

10 MONTENEGRO

9 Corsica (Fr.)

SERBIA

5

1 2

6

11

ADRIATIC SEA

12 14 13

15

17 TYRRHENIAN SEA

IONIAN SEA 16 ALGERIA

0

100 km

TUNISIA

617

CHAPTER 11

Highlights

ROME AND L AZ I O

| Highlights

✱

Pantheon The most complete ancient Roman structure in the city. See p.636

✱

Capitoline Museums The august and impressive home of some of Rome’s ﬁnest ancient sculpture and paintings. See p.643

✱

Colosseum Rome’s bestknown and most impressive monument. See p.647

✱

Galleria Borghese One of the city’s ﬁnest art galleries – and home to the cream of the work of the city’s

favourite sculptor, Bernini. See p.663

✱

Vatican Museums Quite simply the largest and richest collection of art in the world. See p.666

✱

Ostia Antica The old port of Rome is one of the bestpreserved and most intriguing ancient sites in the country. See p.681

✱

Tivoli The site of Hadrian’s villa, as well as the splendid landscaped gardens of Villa d’Este. See p.682

The Colosseum

H ROME AND L AZ I O

Rome and Lazio

| ome is the most fascinating city in Italy, which makes it arguably the most fascinating city in the world. An ancient place packed with the relics of over two thousand years of inhabitation, you could spend a month here and still only scratch the surface. Yet it’s so much more than an open-air museum: its culture, its food, its people make up a modern, vibrant city that would be worthy of a visit irrespective of its past. As a historic centre, it is special enough; as a contemporary European capital, it is utterly unique. Evenly placed between north and south, Rome is in the perfect position to be the Italian capital. The former heart of the mighty Roman Empire, and still the home of the papacy, the city is seen as a place somewhat apart from the rest of the country, the home of politicians and bureacrats. For the traveller, of course, this is much less evident than the sheer weight of history that the city supports. There are of course Rome’s classical features, most visibly the Colosseum, and the Forum and Palatine Hill; but beyond these there’s an almost uninterrupted sequence of monuments – from early Christian basilicas and Romanesque churches to Renaissance palaces and the fountains and churches of the Baroque period, which perhaps more than any other era has determined the look of the city today. There is the modern epoch, too, from the ponderous Neoclassical architecture of the postUniﬁcation period to prestige projects like Zaha Hadid’s newly opened MAXXI exhibition space. And these various eras crowd in on one another to an almost overwhelming degree: there are medieval churches atop ancient basilicas above Roman palaces; houses and apartment blocks that incorporate fragments of eroded Roman columns, carvings and inscriptions; roads and piazzas which follow the lines of ancient amphitheatres and stadiums. Beyond Rome, the region of Lazio inevitably pales in comparison, but there is plenty to draw you there, not least the landscape, which varies from the green hills and lakes of the northern reaches to the drier, more mountainous south. It’s a relatively poor region, its lack of identity the butt of a number of Italian jokes, but it’s the closest you’ll get to the feel of the Italian south without catching the train to Naples. Much of the area can be easily seen on a day-trip from the capital, primarily the ancient sites of Ostia Antica and the various attractions of Tivoli. Further aﬁeld, in northern Lazio, the Etruscan sites of Tarquinia and Cerveteri provide the most obvious tourist focus, and are again just about visitable on a day-trip, but you’d do better to use the pleasant provincial town of Viterbo as a base. Romans, meanwhile, head out at weekends to soak up the gentle beauty of lakes Bracciano, Vico and Bolsena. The south arguably holds Lazio’s most appealing enclaves. The coast is home to unpretentious resorts like Terracina and Sperlonga; and the island of Ponza, further down the coast, is – out of season at least – one of the most alluring spots on the entire western seaboard.

R

619

Rome ROME AND L AZ I O

| Rome

You won’t enjoy Rome if you spend your time trying to tick off sights. However, there are some places that it would be a pity to leave the city without seeing. The Vatican is perhaps the most obvious one, most notably St Peter’s and the amazing stock of loot in the Vatican Museums; and the star attractions of the ancient city – the Forum and Palatine, the Colosseum – are worth a day or two in their own right. There are also the churches, fountains and works of art from the period that can be said to most deﬁne Rome, the Baroque, and in particular the works of Borromini and Bernini, whose efforts compete for space and attention throughout the city. Bernini was responsible for the Fountain of the Four Rivers in the city’s most famous square, Piazza Navona, among other things; but arguably his best sculptural work is in the Galleria Borghese, or in various churches, like his statue of St Theresa in Santa Maria della Vittoria. Borromini, his great rival at the time, built the churches of San Carlo alle Quattro Fontane and Sant’Ivo, both buildings intricately squeezed into small sites – Borromini’s trademark. Other great palaces are themselves treasure-troves of great art, like the Doria Pamphilj and Palazzo Barberini; and there are some unmissable museums, like the galleries of the Capitoline, and the main collections of the Museo Nazionale Romano in the Palazzo Altemps and Palazzo Massimo, all of which hold staggering collections of the cream of the city’s ancient art and sculpture. And ﬁnally there’s the city itself: stroll through the centro storico in the early morning, through Trastevere at sunset,

Roman food and wine

620

Roman cooking is traditionally dominated by the earthy cuisine of the working classes, with a little inﬂuence from the city’s centuries-old Jewish population thrown in. Although you’ll ﬁnd all sorts of pasta served in Roman restaurants, spaghetti is common, as is the local speciality of bucatini or thick-cut hollow spaghetti (sometimes called tonarelli), served cacio e pepe (with pecorino and ground black pepper), alla carbonara (with beaten eggs, cubes of pan-fried bacon, and pecorino or parmesan), alla gricia (with pecorino and bacon), all’amatriciana (with tomato and bacon) and alle vongole (with baby clams). Fish features most frequently in Rome as salt cod – baccalà – best eaten Jewish-style, deep-fried. Offal is also key, and although it has been ousted from many of the more reﬁned city-centre restaurants, you’ll still ﬁnd it on the menus of more traditional places, especially those in Testaccio. Most favoured is pajata, the intestines of an unweaned calf. Look out, too, for coda alla vaccinara, oxtail stewed in a rich sauce of tomato and celery; abbacchio, milk-fed lamb roasted to melting tenderness with rosemary, sage and garlic; abbachio scottadito, grilled lamb chops eaten with the ﬁngers; and saltimbocca alla romana, thin slices of veal cooked with a slice of prosciutto and sage on top. Artichokes (carcioﬁ) are the quintessential Roman vegetable, served alla romana (stuffed with garlic and mint and stewed) and in all their unadulterated glory as alla giudea – ﬂattened and deep-fried in olive oil. Another not-to-be-missed side dish is ﬁori di zucca – batter-fried courgette blossom, stuffed with mozzarella and a sliver of marinated anchovy. Roman pizza has a thin crust and is best when baked in a woodﬁred oven (forno a legna), but you can also ﬁnd lots of great pizza by the slice (pizza al taglio). Wine comes mainly from the Castelli Romani (most famously Frascati) to the south, and from around Monteﬁascone (Est! Est! Est!) in the north. Both are basic, straightforward whites, great for sunny lunchtimes or as an evening aperitivo.

LE MARCHE Orvieto

Amatrice

UMBRIA

CANY Bolsena

Téramo Terni

Bomarzo

Lago di Vico

Vetralla

Lago del Salto

Caprarola

SABINE Ronciglione Cìvita Castellana Farfa Lago di A Bracciano ARI

Tarquinia

SA

Bracciano

Veio

A25

Cerveteri

2

Tivoli Sardinia

Ladispoli Fregene

A2

Cerveteri

Avezzano 4

A1

ABRUZZO

Lago del Turano

L

V IA

Civitavecchia

L'Aquila

HILL S

| Arrival

Tarquinia Lido

A2

Rieti A1

Grosseto

Viterbo

Bagnaia

4

Monte Terminillo (2216m)

Monteﬁàscone

Tuscania

ROME AND L AZ I O

Lago di Bolsena

ROME

Fiuggi

Grottaferrata

Ciampino

Castel Gandolfo Albano Laziale Genzano

Anagni Lago Albano

CIO CIA

Velletri

Ninfa

Lago di Nemi

Alatri Ferentino

RIA

Frosinone A1

Sermoneta Nettuno Anzio

T Y R R H E N I A N

Priverno

Latina

Fondi Terracina

Sabaudia Mt.Circeo (541m)

Cassino Abbey of Fossanova

Pontine Marshes

S E A

Abbey of Montecassino

Isérnia & Naples

Lido di Ostia

Palestrina

Frascati

Fiumicino

Subiaco

Colli Albani

Minturno Formia

Sperlonga Gaeta Golfo di Gaeta

Naples

S.Felice Circeo

Ponza Ventotene

ROME & LAZIO

0

25 km

or gaze down at the roofs and domes from the Janiculum Hill on a clear day, and you’ll quickly realize that there’s no place in Italy like it.

Arrival Rome has two airports: Leonardo da Vinci, better known as Fiumicino, which handles the majority of scheduled ﬂights, and Ciampino, where you’ll probably arrive if you’re travelling with one of the low-cost airlines. Fiumicino is linked to the centre of Rome by direct trains, which take thirty minutes to get to Termini

621

Roman history in brief

ROME AND L AZ I O

Rome’s early history is interwoven with legend. Rea Silvia, a vestal virgin and daughter of a local king, Numitor, had twin sons – the product, she alleged, of a rape by Mars. The two boys were abandoned and found by a wolf, who nursed them until their adoption by a shepherd. He named them Romulus and Remus, and they became leaders of the community and later laid out the boundaries of the city on the Palatine Hill. Before long it became apparent that there was only room for one ruler, and they quarrelled, Romulus killing Remus and becoming in 753 BC the city’s ﬁrst monarch, to be followed by six further kings.

The Roman Republic and Empire

| History

Rome as a kingdom lasted until about 507 BC, when the people rose up against the tyrannical King Tarquinius and established a Republic. The city prospered, growing greatly in size and subduing the various tribes of the surrounding areas: the Etruscans to the north, the Sabines to the east, the Samnites to the south. By the time it had fought and won the third Punic War against its principal rival, Carthage, in 146 BC, it had become the dominant power in the Mediterranean. The history of the Republic was, however, also one of internal strife, marked by factional ﬁghting among the patrician ruling classes, and the ordinary people, or plebeians, enjoying little more justice than they had under the Roman monarchs. This all came to a head in 44 BC, when Julius Caesar, having proclaimed himself dictator, was murdered by conspirators concerned at the growing concentration of power into one man’s hands. A brief period of turmoil ensued, giving way, in 27 BC, to the founding of the Empire under Augustus – a triumph for the new democrats over the old guard. Augustus heaved Rome into the imperial era, building arches, theatres and monuments of a magniﬁcence suited to the capital of an expanding empire. Under Augustus, and his successors, the city swelled to a population of a million or more, its people housed in cramped apartment blocks or insulae; crime in the city was rife, and the trafﬁc problem apparently on a par with today’s, leading one contemporary writer to complain that the din on the streets made it impossible to get a good night’s sleep. But it was a time of peace and prosperity too, with the empire’s borders being ever more extended, reaching their maximum limits under the Emperor Trajan, who died in 117 AD. This period constitutes the heyday of the Roman Empire, a time that the historian Gibbon called “the happiest times in the history of humanity”. The decline of Rome is hard to date precisely, but it could be said to have started with the Emperor Diocletian, who assumed power in 284 and divided the empire into two parts, East and West. The ﬁrst Christian emperor, Constantine, shifted the seat of power to Byzantium in 330, and Rome’s period as capital of the world was over; the wealthier members of the population moved east and a series of invasions by Goths in 410 and Vandals about forty years later served only to quicken the city’s ruin. By the sixth century Rome was a devastated and infection-ridden shadow of its former self.

The papal city

622

After the fall of the empire, the pope – based in Rome owing to the fact that St Peter (the Apostle and ﬁrst pope) was martyred here in 64 AD – became the temporal ruler over much of Italy, and it was the papacy, under Pope Gregory I (“the Great”) in 590, that rescued Rome from its demise. By sending missions all over Europe to spread the word of the Church and publicize its holy relics, he drew pilgrims, and their money, back to the city, in time making the papacy the natural authority in Rome. The pope took the name “Pontifex Maximus” after the title of the high priest of classical times (literally “the keeper of the bridges”, which were vital to the city’s well-being). The crowning a couple of centuries later of Charlemagne as Holy Roman Emperor, with dominions spread Europe-wide but answerable to the pope, intensiﬁed the city’s revival, and the pope and city became recognized as head of the Christian world.

ROME AND L AZ I O

| History

As time went on, power gradually became concentrated in a handful of families, who swapped the top jobs, including the papacy itself, between them. Under the burgeoning power of the pope, the city began to take on a new aspect: churches were built, the city’s pagan monuments rediscovered and preserved, and artists began to arrive in Rome to work on commissions for the latest pope, who would invariably try to outdo his predecessor’s efforts with ever more glorious buildings and works of art. This process reached a head during the Renaissance; Bramante, Raphael and Michelangelo all worked in the city throughout their careers, and the reigns of Pope Julius II and his successor, Leo X, were something of a golden age – the city was once again the centre of cultural and artistic life. However, in 1527 all this was brought abruptly to an end, when the armies of the Habsburg monarch Charles V swept into the city, occupying it for a year, while Pope Clement VII cowered in the Castel Sant’Angelo. The ensuing years were ones of yet more restoration, and perhaps because of this it’s the seventeenth century that has left the most tangible impression on Rome today, the vigour of the Counter-Reformation throwing up huge sensational monuments like the Gesù church that were designed to confound the scepticism of the new Protestant thinking. This period also saw the completion of St Peter’s under Paul V, and the ascendancy of Gian Lorenzo Bernini as the city’s principal architect and sculptor. The eighteenth century witnessed the decline of the papacy as a political force, a phenomenon marked by the seventeen-year occupation of the city starting in 1798 by Napoleon, after which papal rule was restored.

The post-Uniﬁcation city Thirty-four years later a pro-Uniﬁcation caucus under Mazzini declared the city a republic but was soon chased out, and Rome had to wait until troops stormed the walls in 1870 to join the uniﬁed country – symbolically the most important part of the Italian peninsula to do so. “Roma o morte”, Garibaldi had cried, and he wasted no time in declaring the city the capital of the new kingdom – under Vittorio Emanuele II – and conﬁning the by now quite powerless pontiff, Pius IX, to the Vatican until agreement was reached on a way to coexist. The Piemontese rulers of the new kingdom set about building a city ﬁt to govern from, cutting new streets through Rome’s central core (Via Nazionale, Via del Tritone) and constructing grandiose buildings like the Altar of the Nation. Mussolini took over in 1922, and in 1929 signed the Lateran Pact with Pope Pius XI, a compromise which forced the Vatican to accept the new Italian state and in return recognized the Vatican City as sovereign territory, independent of Italy, together with the key basilicas and papal palaces in Rome – these remain technically independent of Italy to this day.

The contemporary city During World War II, Mussolini famously made Rome his centre of operations until his resignation as leader in July 1943. The city was eventually liberated by Allied forces in June 1944. The Italian republic since then has been a mixed affair, changing its government (if not its leaders) every few months until a series of scandals forced the old guard from ofﬁce. Since then things have continued in much the same vein, with the city symbolizing, to the rest of the country at least, the inertia of their nation’s government. In spite of this the city’s growth has been phenomenal, its population soaring to getting on for four million, with a marked increase in its immigrant numbers. However, the city is looking sprucer, and more vibrant, than it has done for some time, and there are even plans afoot to deal with the city centre’s chronic trafﬁc problem, with the construction of a third metro line well under way. In short, the city is more cosmopolitan (and more expensive) than ever before, and despite the crowds, which seem to increase every year, there’s never been a better time to visit.

623

ROME AND L AZ I O

and cost €11; services begin at 6.36am, leaving every thirty minutes until 11.36pm. Alternatively, there are slower trains every 15 minutes to Ostiense and Tiburtina stations (tickets €5.50), on the edge of the city centre, which are also stops on Rome’s metro. From Ciampino, Terravision (W www.terravision.eu) and SIT Bus (W www.sitbusshuttle.it) run buses every half-hour to Termini for €8 return. They pull up on Via Marsala; otherwise, ATRAL buses (W www.atral-lazio.com) run to Via Giolitti, on the other side of Termini, every hour (€4.50); all services take about 45 minutes. If you don’t want to go to Termini, and are staying near a metro stop on the A line (near the Spanish Steps or Via Veneto areas, for example), you TO VITERBO

| Arrival

Metro A Metro B F.S. line

METRO & TRAINS

TO ORTE & FLORENCE

LA GIUSTINIANA Fara Sabina

Prima Porta La Celsa TO BRACCIANO & VITERBO

Piana bella di Montelibretti

Labaro Centro Rai

La Giustiniana

Monterotondo

Saxa Rubra

Ipogeo degli Ottavi

Grotta Rossa Settebegni

Ottavia Due Ponti S. Filippo Neri Tor di Quinto

Fidene

Monte Mario Gemelli Balduino

Riv

er

e Tib

r

Nuovo Salario

Monte Antenne

Campi Sportivi REBIBBIA

et

tic ei

S.

log a Ro m

Villini

SAN PAOLO

Pontelungo

F.S. TRASTEVERE

Muratella

Ar c

F.S. OSTIENSE Garbatella

Magliana

Basilica San Paolo

Muratelria

a tar nat Pig i Tor ian lle d r Go ntoce Ce ti liat ata ida Tog acc ra and a Sp ela u i a C gnett re Ma ett e Ang r o tan T re din Fon Bolo Tor Giar Torr PANTANO aia ni iana hio iti ova e N orre Ge Celo ghes inocc Gran r r r t F T rot Bo To G

Fu rio Ca Co m od lli illo Al iT ba ra Nu ni ve P or m rti idi ta no oFu Qu rb a ad ra to

F. S. Tuscolana

Piramide

Villa Bonelli

ssi

Ale

S.

Gi ov

Circo Massimo

di

an ni

M

Quattro Venti

TO TIVOLI Porta Maggiore

Em Vi an ttor ue io an le zo ni

Colosseo

Re

pa nt o

Bo

LAZIALI

TERMINI Cavour

Fregene TO CIVITAVECCHIA

Marconi

Lucio Sestio G. Agricola Subaugusta

EUR-MAGLIANA

Ponte Galeria

Cinecittà

LAURENTINA EUR Palasport

AEROPORTO FIUMICINO

EUR Fermi

ANAGNINA

Tor di Valle FIUMICINO CITTÀ

Vitinia Torricola

Casal Bernocchi

Capannelle TO FROSINONE

Acilia Ostia Antica Lido Nord Lido Centro

624

za ien tina nissiu atti e li Sap Ser Tog Tor

nes

Pre

Castro Pretorio

Repubblica Aurelia

Ponte Mammolo S. Maria del Soccorso Pietralata

Monti Tiburtini Quintiliani

F.S. Tiburtina Policlinico

Barberini

Le

F. S. SAN PIETRO

na

no

us M o-

via

FLAMINIO Spagna

ta

pr

Nomentana

Ot

Ci

Ba Cor ne ldo lia D. Ub ald i

BATTISTINI

River Aniene Euclide

Pi

Va

Appiano VALLE AURELIA

ro

an

i

Acqua Acetosa

Ciampino TO FRASCATI

Stella Polare Castel Fusano

CRISTOFORO COLOMBO

TO NETTUNO

TO LATINA

TO VELLETRI

TO ALBANO LAZIALE

ROME AND L AZ I O

| City transport

could take an ATRAL bus (€1.20) from the airport to Anagnina metro station at the end of metro Line A, and take a metro from there to your destination (20min; €1). There’s a ﬁxed price for taxis to the city centre (from Fiumicino €40, from Ciampino €30); the journey time for both is thirty to forty minutes. Information on both airports is available at T 06.65951 and W www.adr.it. Travelling by train from most places in Italy, or indeed Europe, you arrive at Termini station, centrally placed for all parts of the city and meeting-point of the two metro lines and many city-bus routes. There are left-luggage facilities here, on the lower level by platform 24 (daily 6am–midnight; €3.80/5hr, then €0.60/hr). As for other train stations in Rome, Tiburtina is a stop for some north–south intercity trains; selected routes around Lazio are handled by the Regionali platforms of Termini station (a ﬁve-minute walk beyond the end of the regular platforms); and there’s also the Roma-Nord line station on Piazzale Flaminio, which runs to Viterbo. Arriving by bus can leave you in any one of a number of places around the city. The main station for buses from outside the Rome area is Tiburtina. Others include Ponte Mammolo (trains from Tivoli and Subiaco); Lepanto (Cerveteri, Civitavecchia, Bracciano area); EUR Fermi (Nettuno, Anzio, southern Lazio coast); Anagnina (Castelli Romani); Saxa Rubra (Viterbo and around). All of these stations are on a metro line, except Saxa Rubra, which is on the Roma-Nord train line, connected every ﬁfteen minutes with Piazzale Flaminio. Finally, coming into the city by car can be confusing and isn’t advisable unless you’re used to driving in Italy and know where you are going to park. If you are coming from the north on the A1 highway take the exit “Roma Nord”; from the south, take the “Roma Est” exit. Both lead you to the Grande Raccordo Anulare (GRA), which circles the city and is connected with all of the major arteries into the city centre – Via Cassia from the north, Via Salaria from the northeast, Via Tiburtina or Via Nomentana from the east, Via Appia Nuova and the Pontina from the south, Via Prenestina and Via Casilina or Via Cristoforo Colombo from the southeast, and Via Aurelia from the northwest.

City transport The best way to get around the centre of Rome is to walk. However, its ATAC-run public transport system, incorporating buses, metros and trams – is cheap, reliable and as quick as the clogged streets allow. There’s an information office in the centre of Piazza dei Cinquecento outside Termini station; W www.atac.roma.it has information in English and a route planner. The metro operates from 5.30am to 11.30pm (till 12.30am on Saturdays). Its two lines, crossing at Termini, only have a handful of stops in the city centre; a third line, Line C, is scheduled for completion by 2015. Buses run till around midnight, when a network of nightbuses comes into service, accessing most parts of the city and operating until about 5am.

Tickets and travel cards Flat-fare tickets (known as BIT) on all forms of transport currently cost €1 each and are good for any number of bus and tram rides and one metro ride within 75 minutes of validating them – bus tickets should be stamped in machines on board the bus. You can buy tickets from tabacchi, newsstands and ticket machines located in all metro stations and at major bus stops. If you’re using transport extensively it’s worth getting a day pass (BIG) for €4, a three-day pass (BTI) for €11, or a seven-day pass (CIS) for €16. There are hefty ﬁnes for fare-dodging.

625

Useful transport routes Buses

ROME AND L AZ I O

| City transport

#23 Piazzale Clodio–Piazza Risorgimento–Ponte Vittorio Emanuele II–Ponte Garibaldi– Via Marmorata–Piazzale Ostiense–Centrale Montemartini–Basilica di S. Paolo. #40 (Express) Termini–Via Nazionale–Piazza Venezia–Largo Argentina–Corso Vittorio Emanuele II–Piazza Pia. #64 Termini–Piazza della Repubblica–Via Nazionale–Piazza Venezia–Largo Argentina– Corso Vittorio Emanuele II–S. Pietro. #175 Termini–Piazza Barberini–Via del Corso–Piazza Venezia–Colosseum–Circus Maximus–Aventine–Stazione Ostiense. #492 Stazione Tiburtina–Piazzale Verano–Termini–Piazza Barberini–Via del Corso– Piazza Venezia–Largo Argentina–Corso Rinascimento–Piazza Cavour–Piazza Risorgimento–Cipro (Vatican Museums). #660 Largo Colli Albani–Via Appia Nuova–Via Appia Antica. #714 Termini–Santa Maria Maggiore–Via Merulana–San Giovanni in Laterano–Viale Terme di Caracalla–EUR. #910 Termini–Piazza della Repubblica–Via Pinciana (Villa Borghese)–Piazza Euclide– Palazzetto dello Sport (EUR)–Piazza Mancini.

Minibuses Minibuses negotiate circular routes through the narrow streets of Rome’s centre. #116 Porta Pinciana–Via Veneto–Via del Tritone–Piazza di Spagna–Piazza San Silvestro– Corso Rinascimento–Campo de’ Fiori–Piazza Farnese–Lungotevere Sangallo–Terminal Gianicolo. #117 San Giovanni in Laterano–Piazza Celimontana–Via Due Macelli–Via del Babuino–Piazza del Popolo–Via del Corso–Piazza Venezia–Via Nazionale–Via dei Serpenti–Colosseum–Via Labicana. #119 Piazza del Popolo–Via del Corso–Piazza Venezia–Largo Argentina–Via del Tritone–Piazza Barberini–Via Veneto–Porta Pinciana–Piazza Barberini–Piazza di Spagna–Via del Babuino–Piazza del Popolo.

Trams #2 Piazzale Flaminio–Via Flaminia–Viale Tiziano–MAXXI–Piazza Mancini. #3 Stazione Trastevere–Via Marmorata–Piramide–Circo Massimo–Colosseum–San Giovanni–San Lorenzo–Via Nomentana–Parioli–Viale Belle Arti. #8 Casaletto–Stazione Trastevere–Piazza Mastai–Viale Trastevere–Largo Argentina. #14 Termini–Piazza Vittorio Emanuele–Porta Maggiore–Prenestina (Pigneto). #19 Porto Maggiore–Piazzale Verano–Viale Regina Margherita–Viale Belle Arti–Via Flaminia–Ottaviano–Piazza Risorgimento.

Tourist buses

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There are several operators offering hop-on-hop-off circuits of the city with guided commentary, but the ATAC-run #110 bus is the best and most frequent (T800.281.281, Wwww.trambusopen.com). It leaves from Termini station and stops at all the major sights, including Piazza di Spagna, Castel Sant’Angelo and the Vatican. The whole round trip takes about two hours. In summer, departures are every twenty minutes from 8.30am until 8.30pm daily, including holidays and Sundays. It also offers night-time tours of the city, starting at Piazza Venezia (9.45pm & 10.15pm). Tickets cost €20 and are valid 24hr; tickets for the night tours cost €12. Consider also the Archeobus (same contact details), which links some of the most compelling ancient sights, including the monuments on and around the Via Appia Antica. Buses run daily every half-hour from 8.30am until 4.30pm and cost €15. You can also buy a combined ticket with bus #110 for €30, valid 48hr.

There’s an official tourist office at Fiumicino Terminal 2 (daily 9am–6.30pm) and information kiosks in key locations around the city centre (daily 9.30am–7.30pm; (see box below). You could also try the privately run Enjoy Rome, Via Marghera 8/A (Mon–Fri 8.30am–5pm, Sat 8.30am–2pm; T 06.445.1843, W www.enjoyrome .com), whose friendly English-speaking staff hand out lots of free information; they also operate a free room-ﬁnding service, organize tours, have a left-luggage service for customers, and run shuttle buses to Fiumicino and Ciampino. The city’s best source of listings is the weekly Romac’è (€1), which has a helpful section in English giving information on tours, clubs, restaurants, services and weekly events and a decent website – W www.romace.it. The twice-monthly English expat magazine, Wanted in Rome (€0.75) – W www.wantedinrome.com – is also a useful source, especially if you’re looking for an apartment or work. Both are available at most newsstands. Those with a bit of Italian should pick up a copy of the Thursday edition of La Repubblica, which includes the “Trova Roma” supplement, another handy guide to current offerings. And W www.inromenow.com and www.eternally cool.net are both informative Rome-focused websites.

| Information • Accommodation

Information

ROME AND L AZ I O

The easiest way to get a taxi is to ﬁnd the nearest taxi stand (fermata dei taxi) – central ones include Termini, Piazza Venezia, Largo Argentina, Piazza San Silvestro, Piazza di Spagna, Piazza del Popolo and Piazza Barberini. Alternatively, you can simply call a taxi (T 06.3570, 06.4157, 06.6645, 06.4994 or 06.5551), but bear in mind that these usually cost more, as the meter starts ticking the moment the taxi is dispatched to collect you. A journey from one side of the city centre to the other should cost no more than €10, or around €15 on Sunday or at night. All taxis carry a rate card in English giving the current tariff. Finally, you could tour the city by bike using the city’s bike-sharing scheme (W www.roma-n-bike.com). You sign up at one of ten metro stations (including Termini and Spagna, near the Spanish Steps), and pay €10; after this it costs just €0.50 an hour to use the city’s bikes and there are enough drop-off points around town to make it convenient.

Accommodation There’s plenty of accommodation in Rome, and overall the choice of hotels in the city centre has improved a lot over recent years, with lots of new boutique hotels and contemporary B&Bs opening up. But it’s always worth booking in advance, especially when the city is at its busiest – from Easter to the end of October, and over Christmas. If you haven’t booked, try Enjoy Rome (see above). The accommodation listings below are marked on the maps on pp.628–629, p.633 and p.635.

Information kiosks Castel Sant’Angelo (Piazza Pia); Imperial Forums (Piazza del Tempio della Pace); Piazza Navona (Piazza delle Cinque Lune); San Giovanni (Piazza San Giovanni in Laterano); Santa Maria Maggiore (Via dell’Olmata); Termini station (Piazza dei Cinquecento); Trastevere (Piazza Sonnino); Trevi Fountain (Via Minghetti); Via del Corso (Largo Goldoni); Via Nazionale (Palazzo delle Esposizioni).

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Museum passes

ROME AND L AZ I O

The Roma Pass (T 06.06.08, Wwww.romapass.it) costs €23 and is valid for 3 days. Available from major sights and tourist information kiosks, it entitles you to travel for free on buses, trams and the metro, gives you free admission to two and reduced entry to quite a few of the city’s major sights and museums, and, perhaps most importantly, the opportunity not to queue at the ﬁrst two sights you visit – quite a lifesaver at the Colosseum and one or two others. You can visit the four museums that make up the Museo Nazionale Romano on one ticket, valid for seven days, which costs €7 and is available from each location – Palazzo Altemps, Palazzo Massimo, Crypta Balbi and the Museo delle Terme di Diocleziano.

| Accommodation

Hotels Many of the city’s cheapest places are located close to Termini station, but this isn’t the nicest part of town and there are plenty of moderately priced places in the centro storico or around Campo de’ Fiori. However, you’ll need to book well in advance to be sure of a room. The Tridente, Trevi and the Quirinale Hill, towards Via Veneto and around the Spanish Steps, is home to more upscale accommodation, although there are a few affordable options here too. Consider also staying across the river in Prati, a pleasant neighbourhood, nicely distanced from the hubbub of the city centre proper, and handy for the Vatican, or in lively Trastevere, also on the west side of the river but an easy walk into the centre. Centro Storico and Campo de’ Fiori

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Campo de’ Fiori Via del Biscione 6 T06.6880.6865, Wwww.hotelcampodeﬁori.com. A friendly place in a nice location with 23 individually designed rooms. The sixth-ﬂoor roof terrace has great views, and the hotel also owns a number of small apartments nearby. 5 Due Torri Vicolo del Leonetto 23 T06.6880.6956, Wwww.hotelduetorriroma .com. This little hotel was once a residence for cardinals, and later served as a brothel. Completely remodelled, it retains a homely feel and some of its rooms have lovely rooftop views. A good location just north of Piazza Navona. 5 Navona Via dei Sediari 8 T06.686.4203, Wwww.hotelnavona.com. Completely renovated pensione-turned-hotel housed in a building built on the remains of the ancient Roman baths of Agrippa. It’s pretty welcoming, run by a friendly Italian-Australian, and the rooms are decent; plus it’s in a good position close to Piazza Navona. 4 Portoghesi Via dei Portoghesi 1 T 06.686.4231, W www.hotelportoghesiroma.com. Decent, wellequipped if slightly characterless modern rooms, a stone’s throw from most centro storico attractions. Breakfast is served on the roof terrace. 5 Santa Chiara Via Santa Chiara 21 T06.687.2979, W www.albergosantachiara.com. A friendly hotel in a great location, on a quiet piazza behind the Pantheon. The rooms are nicer than the bland

lobby, and some overlook the church of Santa Maria sopra Minerva. 6 Smeraldo Vicolo dei Chiodaroli 9 T06.687.5929, Wwww.smeraldoroma.com. Clean and comfortable hotel with a modern if rather bland interior and rooms with shiny new baths, televisions and a/c. The terrace and some rooms have lovely views over Rome’s rooftops. Breakfast not included. 4 Sole Via del Biscione 76 T06.6880.6873, Wwww .solealbiscione.it. This place enjoys one of the best locations in the centre, and has been in the same family for generations. The rooms are simple but decent enough; it’s worth splashing out on one of the ones with the spectacular view of the nearby domes from the top-ﬂoor terrace. 4 Teatro Pace Via del Teatro Pace 33 T06.687.9075, Wwww.hotelteatropace.com. This beautifully restored palazzo, a few paces from Piazza Navona, has an impressive Baroque spiral staircase (no lift) and four ﬂoors of elegant rooms with original wood beams, ﬂoor-sweeping drapes and luxurious bathrooms. 6 Zanardelli Via G. Zanardelli 7 T 06.6821.1392, Wwww.hotelnavona.com. Run by the same people as the Navona, this is the slightly more lavish alternative, just north of Piazza Navona, in a building which used to be a papal residence and has many original features. The rooms are quite elegant, with antique iron beds, silk-lined walls and modern amenities, but still decently priced. 5

Casa Howard Via Capo le Case 18 & Via Sistina 149 T 06.69922.4555, Wwww.casahoward.com. Halfway between a boutique hotel and an upmarket pensione, the individually furnished if sometimes small rooms here are among Rome’s most stylish. The location is good too, between Piazza Barberini and the Spanish Steps. 6 Condotti Via Mario de’ Fiori 37 T 06.679.4661, W www.condottigrouphotels.com. A cosy and inviting hotel with other locations nearby, and comfortable, well-equipped rooms. A bit devoid of personality, although this is somewhat compensated for by the welcoming staff. 5 Daphne Via di San Basilio 55 & Via degli Avignonesi 20 T 06.8745.0087, Wwww .daphne-rome.com. A welcoming pensione run by an American woman and her Roman husband. Bright, nicely renovated modern rooms in two good locations either side of Piazza Barberini, and as much advice as you need on how to spend your time in Rome. Some rooms have shared bathrooms, others are en suite. 5 De Russie Via del Babuino 9 T06.328.881, W www.hotelderussie.it. Coolly elegant and understated, this is the abode of choice for visiting movie stars and hip travellers spending someone else’s money. 9 Eva’s Rooms Via dei due Macelli 31 T 06.6919.0078, W www.evasrooms.com. Large and cosily furnished rooms are the hallmark of this B&B, just a 5-minute walk from the Spanish Steps. Some of the rooms could do with a lick of paint, but for the price the location is great. 4 Homs Via della Vite 71–72 T 06.679.2976, W www.hotelhoms.it. In the heart of the Spanish Steps neighbourhood, this small four-star boasts a roof terrace with marvellous views, cosy rooms and a very friendly atmosphere – something that’s not always guaranteed in the hotels of this ritzy neighbourhood. 5 Locarno Via della Penna 22 T 06.361.0841, W www.hotellocarno.com. No two rooms are alike at the Locarno, ﬁlled with antiques of various periods, and the atmospheric bar on some nights can attract a cast of hundreds. Literati, the ﬁlm world, artists and those that could afford to pay much more relish the hotel’s quirkiness and genteel charm. 6 Modigliani Via della Puriﬁcazione 42 T 06.4281.5226, W www.hotelmodigliani .com. A young artist couple run this modern hotel on a quiet street just off Piazza Barberini. Rooms are tasteful and comfortable, and all have a/c. 5

Alpi Via Castelﬁdardo 84 T06.444.1235, Wwww.hotelalpi.com. One of the more peaceful yet convenient options close to Termini, recently renovated, and within easy walking distance of the station. Pleasant, if somewhat small, rooms with bathrooms, and a great buffet breakfast – better than you would normally expect in a hotel of this category. 5 Artorius Via del Boschetto 13 T06.482.1196, Wwww.hotelartorius.com. A great choice if you want to stay in the heart of Monti, with just ten rooms decorated in classic style. There’s also a pleasant courtyard for breakfast, or for drinks after dark. 5 The Beehive Via Marghera 8 T06.4470.4553, Wwww.the-beehive.com. Cheap double rooms, all with shared bathroom, in this pleasant hotel near Termini run by an American couple. There are also dorm beds for €25 or you can self-cater in three nearby apartments for €35 a head. There’s also free internet access and a restaurant serving vegetarian food all day. 2 Des Artistes Via Villafranca 20 T06.445.4365, W www.hoteldesartistes.com. One of the better hotels in the Termini area. Exceptionally good value, spotlessly clean, and with a wide range of rooms both with and without en-suite facilities, plus dorm beds for around €25. Eat breakfast or recover from a long day of sightseeing on the breezy roof terrace. 5 Grifo Via del Boschetto 144 T06.487.1395, Wwww.hotelgrifo.com. Right in the heart of the Monti district, this hotel has simple, tasteful rooms, and a roof terrace which overlooks the scene of medieval Rome at its most picturesque. 6 Suite Dreams Via Modena 5 T06.4891.3907, Wwww.suitedreams.it. Simple yet stylish rooms with good-sized bathrooms, and nice details like a DVD library for guests’ use. Good value. 5 Villa delle Rose Via Vicenza 5 T06.445.1788, Wwww.villadellerose.it. An aristocratic villa just a block from Termini with slightly shabby but characterful rooms and a warm welcome from the staff. 3

| Accommodation

The Esquline, Monti and Termini

ROME AND L AZ I O

The Tridente, Trevi and the Quirinale

The Celian Hill, San Giovanni and the Aventine Lancelot Via Capo d’Africa 47 T06.7045.0615, Wwww.lancelothotel. com. Just two minutes from the Colosseum, this friendly family-run hotel has rooms with oriental carpets and an attractive bar. Wi-ﬁ is free, as is the lobby internet point. Dinner is good too, served at intimate round tables with other guests for €25 a head. They also have (limited) parking for €10. 5

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Sant’Anselmo Piazza Sant’Anselmo 2 T 06.570.057, W www.aventinohotels.com. One of the most peaceful places you could choose, this is one of a chain of Aventine Hill hotels. The rooms are beautifully furnished (each with a different theme) and have been fairly recently renovated. Parking is free. 5

Trastevere and Prati

| The City

Amalia Via Germanico 66 T06.3972.3356, W www.hotelamalia.com. Located on an attractive corner not far from the Vatican, this is an extremely good value option, with four-star amenities at three-star prices. 5 Cisterna Via della Cisterna 7–9 T 06.581.7212, W www.cisternahotel.it. A friendly three-star bang

in the middle of Trastevere. Nineteen rooms, some with colourful tiled ﬂoors and wood-beamed ceilings, and all with private bathrooms. 3 La Rovere Vicolo San Onofrio 4–5 T06.6880.6739, W www.hotellarovere.com. Just across the bridge from Piazza Navona, this small hotel is tucked quietly away from all the bustle and offers a terrace garden and antique-ﬁlled setting for its guests to relax in. 4 Santa Maria Vicolo del Piede 2 T06.589.4626, Wwww.hotelsantamaria.info. Just steps from Piazza Santa Maria in the heart of Trastevere, the rooms of this small three-star surround an orangetree-ﬁlled garden, giving the feel of a place far removed from the city. 5

Hostels Alessandro Palace Via Vicenza 42 T06.446.1958, Wwww.hostelsalessandro.com. This place has been voted one of the top hostels in Europe, and it sparkles with creative style. Pluses include no lock-out or curfew, a good bar with free pizza every night, internet access and satellite TV. A few blocks away is Alessandro Downtown, Via C. Cattaneo 23 (T06.4434.0147). Dorms €25–35, rooms 3 Ostello del Foro Italico Viale delle Olimpiadi 61 T 06.323.6267, Wwww.ostellodiroma.it. Rome’s ofﬁcial HI hostel (non-members can join here), though not particularly central or easy to get to from Termini – take bus #32, #224 or #280 and

ask the driver for the “ostello”. You can call ahead to check out availability, but they won’t take phone bookings. Breakfast included. Dorms €16. Ottaviano Via Ottaviano 6 T06.3973.8138, Wwww.pensioneottaviano.com. This simple hostel near the Vatican is very popular; book well in advance. Dorms €25–33. YWCA Via C. Balbo 4 T06.488.0460. Open to women and men, and conveniently situated just a 10-minute walk from Termini, although the market outside may get you up earlier than you might want. Midnight curfew. Dorms €28, rooms 2

Campsites Camping Flaminio Via Flaminia Nuova 821 T 06.333.2604, Wwww.campingﬂaminio.it. 8km north of the centre, this site also has bungalows, a pool and a restaurant. To get there, either take the Roma-Nord service from Piazzale Flaminio to Due Ponti, or take bus #910 to Piazza Mancini and transfer to bus #200 (ask the driver to drop you at the “fermata più vicina al campeggio”). March–Oct.

Camping Tiber Km1400, Via Tiberina T06.3361.0733, Wwww.campingtiber.com. Right beside the Tiber, quiet, spacious and friendly, with a bar-pizzeria, a pool and hot showers, plus bungalows. It has a free shuttle service (every 30min 8am–11pm) to and from nearby Prima Porta station, where you can catch the Roma-Nord train service to Piazzale Flaminio (about 20min). March–Oct.

The City

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Rome’s city centre is divided neatly into distinct blocks. The warren of streets that makes up the centro storico occupies the hook of land on the left bank of the River Tiber, bordered to the east by Via del Corso and to the north and south by water. From here Rome’s central core spreads south and east: down towards Campo de’ Fiori; across Via del Corso to the major shopping streets and alleys around the Spanish Steps; to the major sites of the ancient city to the south; and to the expanse of the Villa Borghese park to the north. The left bank of the river is a little more distanced from the main hum of the city centre, home to the

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CAFÉS & RESTAURANTS Alberto Pica 28 Alla Scala 33 2 E VIA VIA U IR POBLR I Alle Carrette 24 IO Q I ACCH O C O I R L Z N N I G I N L N M . I N CO E E V. D VIA P I RIE 3 A D IA T O N Antico Caffé di 4 A V IN T IA OL CCH ISI Spanish UST VIA C VIA BOEZIO SE GIOA VIA PIETRO COSSA TORIA Brasile 15 DOV ALL X PIAZZA U S I VIA 5 V IA VIT X L V C Steps IA VIA CASSIODORO RISORGIMENTO VIA IA NGRO UC 7 6 GO Beltramme VIA CRESC ETA 9 RD 8 VIA OR V B PIAZZA ITO V ENZIO GA SA CA Ara Pacis I T T IA L Bernasconi 23IA Capuchin G. UL VIA VIA . Mausoleo IA V DI 9 Palazzo di S V B A PIAZZA PA AD VI PIAZZA di Augusto LO O ISSO BOR GL LE Church VIA A RI S. Maria A10 CAVOUR T I SPAGNA Trinità EL Tirolese LI Giustizia GO A I A Cantina ST LA LBER AN TT OT SI EB NGE PONTE CAVOUR AUGUSTO VIA RO ICO II TI C O BA 2 ND LICO della Vittoria E R N A Ciampini NT BA VIA TOMA A O A O dei Monti L N . C CELLI M S D C GNO EL IA A O IA D V G Da Augusto 36 T BORGO VIT A R I A Castel LARGO V E BO 10 TORIO E VI ERIN VI SIS INO GA GOLDONI VIA 12 I A Da Lucia 35 RT V ARB S. Angelo TIN BR PIAZZA VIA IG BORGO 11 PIO PIAZZA TTIN E MA IA D IA B M A AR T FRA BORGHESE EI 25 E BARBERINI V See ‘Centro Storico’ map for detail E VI VIA S. Maria Da Sergio IA SAN TE .P MIL V ELL T D Palazzo V E 13 LE 13 VIA DEI CORRIDORI Dagnino IA EDE BORGO S. ANGELO A V C degli Angeli R Z S O E LL E Barberini EN OT N LE M ST E V O L O A G Dar Filletaro a Santa IC E Z C A T IA D N N V R ERE RI LU L U NG O T E V HE QU BRIA Palazzo VIA DE T Barbara VIA DELLA CONCILIAZIONE V IA PIAZZA XX TE F RG 20 PIAZZA AT S. SILVESTRO Trevi V I A . ON Montecitorio MA GIARDIN .M NG TR DELLA Enoteca Cavour 27 PIAZZA313 DEI IA VIA D. I LU I A A V. D VIA O Fountain V N ON REPUBBLICA I G D BORGO SANTO SPIRITO Palazzo FO 'Gusto CINQUECENTO 4 EM E T OR L U N G O T EV E R NT AN Altemps Stazione UE A Hang Zhou 18 PIAZZA PONTE Palazzo Chigi NE LE VIA DELLA E Palazzo SANT' ANGELO Palazzo del CIFERI Terminidel Caffè L E S. Carlo AL La Bottega 22 MASCHERA D’ORO I C RO E A N D I V. Massimo I MV TE Quirinale IN R AT LaVRenella 34 IR alle Quattro V IA P VIA DEI CORO . MU NARI S. Agostino PIAZZA VIA RIN PONTE PIAZZA L QU IA VIA V. D BA Osteria 3 L CIP G. delle Frezza DE P. PAOLI NC A Fontane DI PIETRA Á DE AM EA PIAZZA PIAZZA PRINCIPE HI DE IA NZ S. Luigi dei IL IT AMEDEO P NU M E E E V A Otello alla Concordia 6 M N R I ED NAVONA D. ROVERE U OV O DO ET V AC EO OLO LL' I Francesi PIAZZA DEL LA AL IS PI S. Agnese DE S. Ignazio H RM Palatium 12 VIA DEL VI N IA E QUIRINALE V A A G L O Time Santa VI F A I Piccolo Abruzzo 1 A P RN Z Chiesa Galleria A Elevator Pudenziana R I N I Piperno OV S. Ivo Pantheon A 30 EC C VI Nuova N Doria-Pamphilj H IO PIAZZA Recafé 8 A 14 VIT ESQUILINO TOR Palazzo VI S. Maria sopra Roscioli 21 IO I VIA JANICULUM Palazzo

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Vatican and St Peter’s, and, to the south of these, Trastevere – even in ancient times a distinct entity from the city proper, although nowadays as much of a focus for tourists as anywhere, especially at night. ROME AND L AZ I O

The centro storico

| The City

Immediately north of Piazza Venezia is the real heart of Rome – the centro storico or historic centre, which makes up most of the triangular knob of land that bulges into a bend in the Tiber. This area, known in ancient Roman times as the Campus Martius, was outside the ancient city centre, a low-lying area that was mostly given over to barracks and sporting arenas, together with several temples, including the Pantheon. Later it became the heart of the Renaissance city, and nowadays it’s the part of the town that is densest in interest, an unruly knot of narrow streets and alleys that holds some of the best of Rome’s classical and Baroque heritage and its most vivacious street- and nightlife. It’s here that most people ﬁnd the Rome they have been looking for – a city of crumbling piazzas, Renaissance churches and fountains, blind alleys and streets humming with scooters and foot-traffic. Whichever direction you wander in there’s something to see; indeed it’s part of the appeal of the centre of Rome that even the most aimless ambling leads you past some breathlessly beautiful and historic spots. Galleria Doria Pamphilj

North of Piazza Venezia, the ﬁrst building on the left is the Palazzo Doria Pamphilj, one of the city’s ﬁnest Rococo palaces. Inside, the Galleria Doria Pamphilj (daily 10am–5pm; €9, including audioguide; W www.dopart.it/roma) is one of Rome’s best private late-Renaissance art collections. The Doria Pamphilj family still lives in part of the building, and you’re guided through the gallery and the state apartments beyond by way of a free audio tour narrated by the urbane Jonathan Pamphilj. The picture gallery extends around the main courtyard, the paintings displayed in old-fashioned style, crammed in frame-to-frame, ﬂoor-to-ceiling. It has perhaps Rome’s best concentration of Dutch and Flemish paintings, with a rare Italian work by Brueghel the Elder showing a naval battle being fought outside Naples, a highly realistic portrait of two old men by Quinten Metsys and a Hans Memling Deposition, in the furthest rooms off the main gallery, as well as a further Metsys painting – the fabulously ugly Moneylenders and their Clients – in the main gallery, close by Annibale Carracci’s bucolic Flight into Egypt. Also in the rooms off the courtyard are three paintings by Caravaggio – Repentant Magdalene and John the Baptist, and his wonderful Rest on the Flight into Egypt – hanging near Salome with the head of St John, by Titian. The gallery’s most prized treasures, however, are in a small room on their own – a Bernini bust of the Pamphilj pope Innocent X and Velázquez’s famous, penetrating painting of the same man. All in all it’s a marvellous collection of work, displayed in a wonderfully appropriate setting. Sant’Ignazio

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The next left off Via del Corso after the palace leads into Piazza Sant’Ignazio, a lovely little square, laid out like a theatre set and dominated by the facade of the Jesuit church of Sant’Ignazio (daily 7.30am–12.30pm & 3–7.15pm). The saint isn’t actually buried here; appropriately, for the founder of the Jesuit order, he’s in the Gesù church a little way south. It’s a spacious structure, built during the late seventeeth century, and worth visiting for the marvellous Baroque ceiling by Andrea Pozzo showing the entry of St Ignatius into paradise, a spectacular work that employs sledgehammer trompe l’oeil effects, notably in the mock cupola painted into the dome of the crossing. Stand on the disc in the centre of the nave, the focal point for the ingenious rendering of perspective: ﬁgures in various states of action and repose, conversation and silence, ﬁx you with stares from their classical pediment.

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| The City

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The Pantheon

ROME AND L AZ I O

| The City

Via del Seminario leads down to Piazza della Rotonda, where the main focus of interest is the Pantheon (Mon–Sat 8.30am–7.30pm, Sun 9am–6pm; free), easily the most complete ancient Roman structure in the city and, along with the Colosseum, visually the most impressive. Though originally a temple that formed part of Marcus Agrippa’s redesign of the Campus Martius in around 27 BC – hence the inscription – it’s since been proved that the building was entirely rebuilt by the Emperor Hadrian and ﬁnished around the year 125 AD. It’s a formidable architectural achievement even now: the diameter is precisely equal to its height (43m), the hole in the centre of the dome – from which shafts of sunlight descend to illuminate the musty interior – a full 9m across. Most impressively, there are no visible arches or vaults to hold the whole thing up; instead they’re sunk into the concrete of the walls of the building. It would have been richly decorated, the coffered ceiling heavily stuccoed and the niches ﬁlled with the statues of gods, but now, apart from its sheer size, the main things of interest are the tombs of two Italian kings, and the tomb of Raphael, between the second and third chapel on the left, with an inscription by the humanist bishop Pietro Bembo: “Living, great Nature feared he might outvie Her works, and dying, fears herself may die.” The same kind of sentiments might well have been reserved for the Pantheon itself. Santa Maria sopra Minerva

There’s more artistic splendour on view behind the Pantheon, though Bernini’s Elephant Statue doesn’t really prepare you for the church of Santa Maria sopra Minerva beyond. The statue is Bernini’s most endearing piece of work, if not his most characteristic: a cheery elephant trumpeting under the weight of the obelisk he carries on his back – a reference to Pope Alexander VII’s reign and supposed to illustrate the fact that strength should support wisdom. Santa Maria sopra Minerva (Mon–Sat 7am–7pm, Sun 8am–7pm) is Rome’s only Gothic church, and worth a look just for that. Built in the late thirteenth century on the ruins of a temple to Minerva, it’s also one of Rome’s art-treasure churches, crammed with the tombs and self-indulgences of wealthy Roman families. Of these, the Carafa chapel, in the south transept, is the best known, holding Filippino Lippi’s fresco of the Assumption, below which one painting shows a hopeful Carafa (the religious zealot, Pope Paul IV) being presented to the Virgin Mary by Thomas Aquinas; another depicts Aquinas confounding the heretics in the sight of two beautiful young boys – the future Medici popes Leo X and Clement VII. The lives of Leo and Clement come full circle in the church, where they are both buried and remembered by two very grand tombs either side of the high altar – Leo on the left, Clement on the right, close by which is the ﬁgure of Christ Bearing the Cross, a serene work that Michelangelo completed for the church in 1521. Sant’Ivo

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A few steps west of the Pantheon, on Corso del Rinascimento, the rather blank facade of the Palazzo della Sapienza cradles the church of Sant’Ivo (Sun 9am– noon) – from the outside at least, one of Rome’s most impressive churches, with a playful facade designed by Borromini. Though originally built for the Barberini pope, Urban VIII, the building actually spans the reign of three pontiffs. Each of the two small towers is topped with the weird pyramidal groupings that are the symbol of the Chigi family (representing the hills of Monti di Paschi di Siena), and the central cupola spirals helter-skelter to its zenith, crowned with ﬂames that are supposed to represent the sting of the Barberini bee, their family symbol. The inside, too, is very cleverly designed, light and spacious given the small space the church is squeezed into, rising to the tall parabolic cupola.

San Luigi dei Francesi

Piazza Navona

| The City

Just west of San Luigi dei Francesi lies Piazza Navona, Rome’s most famous square. Lined with cafés and restaurants, and often thronged with tourists, street artists and pigeons, it is as picturesque – and as vibrant, day and night – as any piazza in Italy. It takes its shape from the ﬁrst-century-AD Stadium of Domitian, the principal venue of the athletic events and later chariot races that took place in the Campus Martius. Until the mid-ﬁfteenth century the ruins of the arena were still here, overgrown and disused, but the square was given a facelift in the mid-seventeenth century by Pope Innocent X, who built most of the grandiose palaces that surround it and commissioned Borromini to design the facade of the church of Sant’Agnese in Agone on the piazza’s western side (Mon–Sat 9.30am–12.30pm & 4–7pm). The story goes that the 13-year-old St Agnes was stripped naked before the crowds in the stadium as punishment for refusing to marry, whereupon she miraculously grew hair to cover herself. The church, typically squeezed into the tightest of spaces by Borromini, is supposedly built on the spot where it all happened. Opposite, the Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi, one of three that punctuate the square, is a masterpiece by Bernini, Borromini’s arch-rival. Each ﬁgure represents one of the four great rivers of the world – the Nile, Danube, Ganges and Plate – though only the horse, symbolizing the Danube, was actually carved by Bernini himself. It’s said that all the ﬁgures are shielding their eyes in horror from Borromini’s church facade (Bernini was disdainful of the less successful Borromini, and their rivalry is well documented), but the fountain had actually been completed before the facade was begun. The grand complexity of rock is topped with an Egyptian obelisk, brought here by Pope Innocent X from the Circus of Maxentius. Bernini also had a hand in the fountain at the southern end of the square, the so-called Fontana del Moro, designing the central ﬁgure of the Moor in what is another fantastically playful piece of work, surrounded by toothsome dolphins and other marine ﬁgures.

ROME AND L AZ I O

A short walk from here, at the bottom of Via della Scrofa, the French national church of San Luigi dei Francesi (daily except Thurs afternoon 8.30am–12.30pm & 4–7pm) is worth a look, mainly for its works by Caravaggio. In the last chapel on the left are three paintings: The Calling of St Matthew, in which Christ points to Matthew, who is illuminated by a shaft of sunlight; The Inspiration of St Matthew, where Matthew is visited by an angel as he writes the Gospel; and The Martyrdom of St Matthew. Caravaggio’s ﬁrst public commission, these paintings were actually rejected at ﬁrst, partly on grounds of indecorum, and it took considerable reworking by the artist before they were ﬁnally accepted.

Museo di Roma

Overlooking the south side of Piazza Navona, the eighteenth-century Palazzo Braschi is the home of the Museo di Roma (Tues–Sun 9am–7pm; €6.50), which has a permanent collection relating to the history of the city from the Middle Ages to the present day. The building itself is probably the main attraction – particularly the magniﬁcent Sala Nobile where you enter, the main staircase, and one or two of the renovated rooms – but some of the paintings are of interest, showing views of the city during different eras, and frescoes from demolished palaces provide decent enough highlights. Museo Barracco

Across the street from the Museo di Roma, the Museo Barracco, housed in another palace, the so-called Piccola Farnesina (Tues–Sun 9am–7pm, Sun 9am–1pm; €3), holds a small but high-quality collection of ancient sculpture that was donated to

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the city at the turn of the century by one Baron Barracco. There are some ﬁne ancient Egyptian pieces and ceramics and statuary from classical Greece and Rome. Highlights include a head of the young Rameses II, next to a bust of an Egyptian priest, a Roman ﬁgure of an athlete from an ancient Greek original, and a highly realistic depiction of a bitch washing herself, from the fourth century BC. ROME AND L AZ I O

Piazza Pasquino and Via del Governo Vecchio

| The City

The nearby triangular space of Piazza Pasquino is named after the small battered torso that still stands in the corner. Pasquino is perhaps the best known of Rome’s “talking statues” of the Middle Ages and Renaissance times, on which anonymous comments on the affairs of the day would be attached – comments that had a serious as well as a humorous intent, and gave us our word “pasquinade”. Via del Governo Vecchio leads west from here, and is home – along with the narrow streets around – to some of the centro storico’s liveliest restaurants and bars. Palazzo Altemps

Just across the street from the north end of Piazza Navona, Piazza Sant’Apollinare is home to the beautifully restored Palazzo Altemps (Tues–Sun 9am–7pm; €7, part of the Museo Nazionale Romano; see box, p.630), and the cream of its collections of Roman statuary. On the ground ﬂoor at the far end of the courtyard’s loggia is a statue of the Emperor Antoninus Pius, and, around the corner, a couple of heads of Zeus and Pluto, and a bust of Julia, the daughter of the Emperor Augustus. There are two almost identical statues of Apollo the Lyrist, a magniﬁcent statue of Athena taming a serpent, pieced together from fragments found near the church of Santa Maria sopra Minerva, and, in the far corner of the courtyard, a Dionysus with a satyr and panther, found on the Quirinale Hill. Upstairs you get a slightly better sense of the original building – some of the frescoes remain and the north loggia retains its original, late sixteenth-century decoration, simulating a vine-laden pergola. Among the objects on display there’s a ﬁne statue of Hermes, a wonderful statue of a warrior at rest, and a charmingly sensitive portrayal of Orestes and Electra from the ﬁrst century AD by a sculptor called Menelaus – his name is carved at the base of one of the ﬁgures. In a later room stands a colossal head of Hera, and – what some consider the highlight of the entire collection – the famous Ludovisi throne, embellished with a delicate relief portraying the birth of Aphrodite. Further on, the Fireplace Salon – whose huge ﬁreplace is embellished with caryatids and lurking ibex, the symbol of the Altemps family – has the so-called Suicide of Galatian, apparently commissioned by Julius Caesar to adorn his Quirinal estate. At the other end of the room, an incredible sarcophagus depicts a battle between the Romans and barbarians in graphic, almost viscerally sculptural detail. Via dei Coronari

West of Palazzo Altemps, narrow Via dei Coronari, and some of the streets around, are the fulcrum of Rome’s antiques trade, and, although the prices are as high as you might expect in such a location, there’s a huge number of shops (Via dei Coronari consists of virtually nothing else) selling a tremendous variety of stuff, and a browse along here makes for an absorbing bit of sightseeing. Sant’Agostino 638

Just east of Palazzo Altemps, the Renaissance facade of the church of Sant’Agostino (daily 7.45am–noon & 4–7.30pm; free) takes up one side of a drab piazza of the same name. It’s not much to look at from the outside, but a handful of art treasures might draw you in. Just inside the door, the serene statue of the Madonna del

Piazza Montecitorio and around

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A short walk east from Sant’Agostino, Piazza Montecitorio takes its name from the bulky Palazzo di Montecitorio on its northern side, home since 1871 to the Italian parliament. Just beyond, off Via del Corso, the Palazzo Chigi ﬂanks the north side of Piazza Colonna, official residence of the prime minister. The Column of Marcus Aurelius in the centre of the piazza was erected between 180 and 190 AD to commemorate military victories in northern Europe, and, like the column of Trajan that inspired it, is decorated with reliefs depicting scenes from the campaigns.

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Parto, by Sansovino, is traditionally invoked during pregnancy, and is accordingly surrounded by photos of newborn babes and their blissful parents. Further into the church, take a look at Raphael’s vibrant fresco of Isaiah, on the third pillar on the left, beneath which is another work by Sansovino, a craggy St Ann, Virgin and Child. But the biggest crowds gather around the ﬁrst chapel on the left, where the Madonna and Pilgrims by Caravaggio – a characteristic work of what was at the time almost revolutionary realism – shows two peasants with dirty clothes praying at the feet of a sensuous Mary and Child.

Campo de’ Fiori and the Ghetto Just south of the centro storico proper, this is Rome’s old centre part two, a similar neighbourhood of cramped, wanderable streets opening out into small squares ﬂanked by churches. However, it’s less monumental and more of a working quarter, as evidenced by its main focus, Campo de’ Fiori, whose fruit and veg stalls are a marked contrast to the pavement artists of Piazza Navona. Close by are the dark alleys of the old Jewish Ghetto, and the busy traffic junction of Largo di Torre Argentina. Largo di Torre Argentina and around

Largo di Torre Argentina is a large square, frantic with traffic circling around the ruins of four Republican-era temples, now home to a thriving colony of cats. On the far side of the square, the Teatro Argentina was in 1816 the venue for the ﬁrst performance of Rossini’s Barber of Seville, not a success on the night: Rossini was apparently booed into taking refuge in the Bernasconi pastry shop which used to be next door. Nearby, the Crypta Balbi, around the corner at Via delle Botteghe Oscure 31 (Tues–Sun 9am–7.45pm; €7; part of the Museo Nazionale Romano – see box, p.630), is housed on the part-excavated site of an old Roman imperial theatre and has displays covering the period from the fall of the Roman Empire to the late Middle Ages. The Gesù and Rooms of St Ignatius

Just east of Largo Argentina, the church of Gesù (daily 6.45am–12.45pm & 4–7.30pm) is a huge structure. The headquarters of the Jesuits, it was ideal for the large and fervent congregations the order wanted to attract – indeed, high and wide, with a single-aisled nave and short transepts edging out under a huge dome, it has since served as the model for Jesuit churches everywhere. The facade is by Giacomo della Porta, the interior the work of Vignola. The glitzy tomb of the order’s founder, St Ignatius, is topped by a huge globe of lapis lazuli – the largest piece in existence. Opposite, the tomb of the sixteenthcentury Jesuit missionary St Francis Xavier holds a reliquary containing the saint’s arm, severed from the rest of his (incorruptible) body, which remains a focus of pilgrimage in Goa. Otherwise it’s the staggering richness of the church’s interior that you remember, especially the paintings by the Genoese painter Baciccia in the dome and the nave, the Triumph in the Name of Jesus, which oozes out of its frame in a tangle of writhing bodies, ﬂowing drapery and stucco angels clinging on like limpets.

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Next door, the Rooms of St Ignatius (Mon–Sat 4–6pm, Sun 10am–noon; free) occupy part of the ﬁrst ﬂoor of the Jesuit headquarters, and are basically the rooms – recently restored – where St Ignatius lived from 1544 until his death in 1556. There are bits and pieces of furniture and memorabilia relating to the saint, but the true draw is the decorative corridor just outside, designed by Andrea Pozzo in 1680 – a superb exercise in perspective on a minimized scale, giving an illusion of a grand hall in what is a relatively small space. Campo de’ Fiori

| The City

On the other side of Largo Argentina, Campo de’ Fiori is in many ways Rome’s most appealing square, home to a lively fruit and vegetable market (Mon–Sat 8am–1pm), and ﬂanked by restaurants and cafés. No one really knows how the square came by its name, which means “ﬁeld of ﬂowers”, but one theory holds that it was derived from the Roman Campus Martius, which used to cover most of this part of town; another claims it is after Flora, the mistress of Pompey, whose theatre used to stand on what is now the northeast corner of the square – a huge complex by all accounts, which was the supposed location of Julius Caesar’s assassination. Later, Campo de’ Fiori was an important point on papal processions between the Vatican and the major basilicas of Rome (notably San Giovanni in Laterano) and a site of public executions. The most notorious killing was of Giordano Bruno, a late sixteenth-century freethinker who followed the teachings of Copernicus and was denounced to the Inquisition; his trial lasted for years under a succession of different popes, and ﬁnally, when he refused to renounce his philosophical beliefs, he was burned at the stake. His death is commemorated by a statue in the middle of the square. Palazzo Farnese

Just south of Campo de’ Fiori, Piazza Farnese is a quite different square, with great fountains spurting out of lilies – the Farnese emblem – into marble tubs brought from the Baths of Caracalla, and the sober bulk of the Palazzo Farnese itself, begun in 1514 by Antonio da Sangallo the Younger and ﬁnished off after the architect’s death by Michelangelo, who added the top tier of windows and cornice. The building now houses the French Embassy but is open to those organized enough to make an appointment (Mon & Thurs visits in French or Italian at 3pm, 4pm & 5pm; free; book in advance at Via Giulia 250, on T 06.6889.2818 or at E [email protected]; closed late July–early Sept & end Dec) – worth doing to see the amazing Baroque ceiling frescoes of Annibale Carracci in one of the rear reception rooms. Galleria Spada

If you can’t make it to the Palazzo Farnese, make do instead with the Palazzo Spada, back towards Via Arenula at Piazza Capo di Ferro 3, and the Galleria Spada inside (Tues–Sun 8.30am–7.30pm; €5); walk right through the courtyard to the back of the building. Its four rooms, decorated in the manner of a Roman noble family’s home, have two portraits of Cardinal Bernardino Spada by Reni and Guercino, and the building itself is a treat: its facade is frilled with stucco adornments. Left off the small courtyard, there’s a crafty trompe l’oeil by Borromini – a tunnel whose actual length is multiplied about four times through the architect’s tricks with perspective – though to get a proper look you have to wait for one of the guided tours. Via Giulia 640

Via Giulia runs parallel to the Tiber from the Ponte Sisto, and was laid out by Julius II to connect the bridge with the Vatican. The street was conceived as the centre of papal Rome, and Julius commissioned Bramante to line it with imposing

palaces. Bramante didn’t get very far with the plan, as Julius was soon succeeded by Leo X, but the street quickly became a popular residence for wealthier Roman families, and is still packed full with stylish palazzi and antique shops. Via Portico d’Ottavia and around ROME AND L AZ I O

| The City

Cross over to the far side of Via Arenula and you’re in what was once the city’s Jewish Ghetto, a crumbling area of narrow, switchback streets and alleys, easy to lose your way in. There was a Jewish population in Rome as far back as the second century BC, and although much depleted now, it still numbers 16,000 (around half Italy’s total), and the quarter is thriving, with a few kosher restaurants, bakers and butchers on and around the main artery of the Jewish area, Via Portico d’Ottavia. This leads down to the Portico d’Ottavia, a not terribly well preserved second-century-BC gate, rebuilt by Augustus and dedicated to his sister in 23 BC, which was the entranceway to the adjacent amphitheatre of the Teatro di Marcello (daily: summer 9am–7pm; winter 9am–6pm; free). Begun by Julius Caesar, ﬁnished by Augustus, this was pillaged in the fourth century and not properly restored until the Middle Ages, after which it became a formidable fortiﬁed palace for a succession of different rulers, including the Orsini family. Crossing to the other side of Via Portico d’Ottavia, narrow Via della Reginella leads to Piazza Mattei, whose Fontana delle Tartarughe, or “turtle fountain”, is a delightful late-sixteenth-century creation, perhaps restored by Bernini. The Synagogue

The Ghetto’s principal Jewish sight is the huge Synagogue by the river ( June–Sept Mon–Thurs & Sun 10am–7pm, Fri 10am–4pm; Oct–May Mon–Thurs & Sun 10am–5pm, Fri 9am–2pm; closed Sat & Jewish hols; €7.50), built in 1904 and very much dominating all around with its bulk – not to mention the carabinieri who stand guard 24 hours a day. The only way to see the building is on one of the free, regular guided tours it runs in English, afterwards taking in the Synagogue’s museum. The interior of the building is impressive, rising to a high, rainbow-hued dome; the tours are excellent, giving good background on the building and Rome’s Jewish community in general; and the recently revamped museum holds one of the most important collections of Judaica in Europe. Isola Tiberina

Almost opposite the Syngagogue, the Ponte Fabricio crosses the river to Isola Tiberina. Built in 62 BC, it’s the only classical bridge to remain intact without help from the restorers (the Ponte Cestio, on the other side of the island, was partially rebuilt in the nineteenth century). As for the island, it’s a calm respite from the city centre proper, with its originally tenth-century church of San Bartolomeo, worth a peep inside for its ancient columns and an equally ancient wellhead on the altar steps, carved with ﬁgures relating to the founding of the church; the ﬁgures include St Bartholomew himself, who also features in the painting above the altar, hands tied above his head, on the point of being skinned alive – his famous and gruesome mode of martyrdom. Beyond the island, you can see the Ponte Rotto (Broken Bridge) – all that remains of the ﬁrst stone bridge to span the Tiber, originally built between 179 and 142 BC.

Piazza Venezia Piazza Venezia is not so much a square as a road junction, and a busy one at that. But it’s a good central place to start your wanderings, close to both the medieval and Renaissance centre of Rome and the bulk of the ruins of the ancient city. Flanked on all sides by imposing buildings, it’s a digniﬁed focal point for the city in spite of the traffic, and a spot you’ll ﬁnd yourself returning to time and again.

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Palazzo Venezia

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Forming the western side of the piazza, Palazzo Venezia (Tues–Sun 9am–7.30pm; €4) was the ﬁrst large Renaissance palace in the city, built for the Venetian Pope Paul II in the mid-ﬁfteenth century and for a long time the embassy of the Venetian Republic. More famously, Mussolini moved in here while in power, occupying the vast Sala del Mappamondo and making his declamatory speeches to the huge crowds below from the small balcony facing onto the piazza. Nowadays it’s a venue for great exhibitions and home to the Museo Nazionale di Palazzo Venezia, a museum of Renaissance arts and crafts, with a number of ﬁfteenthcentury devotional paintings, bronzes and sculpture. San Marco

| The City

Adjacent to the Palazzo Venezia on its southern side, the church of San Marco, accessible from Piazza San Marco (Mon 4–6.30pm, Tues–Sat 8am–noon & 4–6.30pm, Sun 9am–1pm & 4–8pm, closed third Thurs of the month), is the Venetian church in Rome – and one of its most ancient basilicas. Standing on the spot where the apostle is supposed to have lived while in the city, it was rebuilt in 833 and added to by various Renaissance and eighteenth-century popes. Look out for the apse mosaic dating from the ninth century, which shows Pope Gregory offering his church to Christ. The Vittoriano

Everything pales into insigniﬁcance beside the marble monstrosity rearing up across the street – the Vittorio Emanuele Monument or Vittoriano (daily 9.30am–6pm; free; lift summer Mon–Thurs 9am–7.30pm, Fri & Sat 9.30am–11.30pm, Sun 9.30am–8.30pm; winter Mon–Thurs 9.30am–6.30pm, Fri–Sun 9.30am–7.30pm; €7), erected at the beginning of the twentieth century as the “Altar of the Nation” to commemorate Italian Uniﬁcation. It has been variously likened in the past to a typewriter (because of its shape), and, by American GIs, to a wedding cake. It’s great fun clambering up and down the sweeping terraces and ﬂights of steps, cutting through eventually to the Capitoline Museums behind. There are things to see inside (principally a large Uniﬁcation museum), but the main interest is on the outside: the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier at the top of the ﬁrst ﬂight of steps; the equestrian statue of Vittorio Emanuele II, one of the world’s largest, on the next level; the terraces above this; and ﬁnally the lifts which whisk you to the terrace at the top – not cheap, but the views are all-encompassing, and of course this is the one place from which you can’t see the Vittoriano.

The Capitoline Hill The real pity about the Vittoriano is that it obscures views of the Capitoline Hill behind – once the spiritual and political centre of the Roman Empire. Apart from anything else, this hill has contributed key words to the English language, including, of course, “capitol”, and “money”, which comes from the temple to Juno Moneta that once stood up here and housed the Roman mint. The Capitoline also played a signiﬁcant role in medieval and Renaissance times: the ﬂamboyant fourteenth-century dictator Cola di Rienzo stood here in triumph in 1347, and was murdered here by an angry mob seven years later – a humble statue marks the spot. 642

Santa Maria in Aracoeli

The church of Santa Maria in Aracoeli (daily 9am–12.30pm & 3–6.30pm) crowns the highest point on the Capitoline Hill, built on the site of a temple where,

Piazza del Campidoglio

| The City

Next to the steps up to Santa Maria is the cordonata, an elegant, gently rising ramp, topped with two Roman statues of Castor and Pollux, leading to Piazza del Campidoglio, one of Rome’s most elegant squares. Designed by Michelangelo in the last years of his life for Pope Paul III, the square wasn’t in fact completed until the late seventeenth century. Michelangelo balanced the piazza, redesigning the facade of what is now the Palazzo dei Conservatori and projecting an identical building across the way, known as the Palazzo Nuovo. Both are angled slightly to focus on Palazzo Senatorio, Rome’s town hall. In the centre of the square Michelangelo placed an equestrian statue of Emperor Marcus Aurelius, which had previously stood for years outside San Giovanni in Laterano; early Christians had refrained from melting it down because they believed it to be of the Emperor Constantine. After careful restoration, the original is now behind a glass wall in the Palazzo Nuovo, and a copy has taken its place at the centre of the piazza.

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according to legend, the Tiburtine Sybil foretold the birth of Christ. Reached by a steep ﬂight of steps erected by Cola di Rienzo in 1348, or by cutting through from the Vittoriano, it’s one of Rome’s most ancient basilicas, with, in the ﬁrst chapel on the right, some ﬁne frescoes by Pinturicchio recording the life of San Bernardino. The church is also known for its role as keeper of the “Bambino”, a small statue of the infant Christ, carved from the wood of a Gethsemane olive tree. It’s said to have healing powers and was traditionally called out to the sickbeds of the ill and dying all over the city, its coach commanding instant right of way through the heavy Rome traffic. The statue was stolen in 1994, however, and a copy now stands in its place, in a small chapel to the left of the high altar.

The Capitoline Museums

The Palazzo dei Conservatori and Palazzo Nuovo together make up the Capitoline Museums (Tues–Sun 9am–8pm; €6.50, €8.50 7-day joint ticket with Centrale Montemartini – see p.659; W www.museicapitolini.org), containing some of the city’s most important ancient sculpture and art. The Palazzo dei Conservatori holds the larger, more varied collection. Among its many treasures are the so-called Spinario, a Roman statue of a boy picking a thorn out of his foot; the Etruscan bronze she-wolf nursing the mythic founders of the city; and the Hannibal Room, covered in wonderfully vivid ﬁfteenth-century paintings recording Rome’s wars with Carthage, and so named for a rendering of Hannibal seated impressively on an elephant. The wonderfully airy new wing holds the original of Marcus Aurelius, formerly in the square outside, alongside a giant bronze statue of Constantine, or at least its head, hand and orb. Nearby stands the rippling bronze of Hercules, behind which are part of the foundations and a retaining wall from the original temple of Jupiter here, discovered when the work for the new wing was undertaken. And when museum fatigue sets in you can climb up to the ﬂoor above to the second-ﬂoor café, whose terrace commands one of the best views in Rome. The second-ﬂoor pinacoteca holds Renaissance painting from the fourteenth century to the late seventeenth century. Highlights include a couple of portraits by Van Dyck, a penetrating Portrait of a Crossbowman by Lorenzo Lotto, a pair of paintings from 1590 by Tintoretto, and a very ﬁne early work by Lodovico Carracci, Head of a Boy. In one of the two large main galleries, there’s a vast picture by Guercino, depicting the Burial of Santa Petronilla (an early Roman martyr who was the supposed daughter of St Peter), and two paintings by Caravaggio, one a replica of the young John the Baptist which hangs in the Palazzo Doria Pamphilj, the other an early work known as The Fortune-Teller.

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The Palazzo Nuovo across the square – also accessible by way of an underground walkway that takes in good views of the Roman Forum just below – is the more manageable of the two museums, with some of the best of the city’s Roman sculpture crammed into half a dozen or so rooms. Among them is the remarkable statue Dying Gaul, as well as a Satyr Resting that was the inspiration for Nathaniel Hawthorne’s book The Marble Faun; and the red marble Laughing Silenus. There are also busts and statues of Roman emperors and other famous names: a young Augustus, a cruel Caracalla and, the centrepiece, a life-size portrait of Helena, the mother of Constantine, reclining gracefully. Don’t miss the coy, delicate Capitoline Venus, housed in a room on its own. The Tarpeian Rock and San Pietro in Carcere

| The City

Behind the Palazzo Senatorio, Via del Monte Tarpeio follows the brink of the old Tarpeian Rock, from which traitors would be thrown in ancient times – named after Tarpeia, who betrayed the city to the Sabines. On the left side of the Palazzo Senatorio (as you face it from the Campidoglio) steps lead down to the little church of San Pietro in Carcere (daily: April–Sept 9am–6pm; Oct-March 9am–5.30pm; donation expected for the prison), built above the ancient Mamertine Prison, where spies, vanquished soldiers and other enemies of the Roman state were incarcerated, and where St Peter himself was held. Steps lead down into the murky depths of the jail, where you can see the bars to which he was chained, along with the spring the saint is said to have created to baptize the other prisoners down here. At the top of the staircase, hollowed out of the honeycomb of stone, is an imprint claimed to be of St Peter’s head as he tumbled down the stairs (though when the prison was in use, the only access was through a hole in the ceiling). It’s an unappealing place even now, and you won’t be sorry to leave. Piazza Bocca della Verità

On the other side of the Capitoline Hill, down towards the Tiber, Via di Teatro di Marcello meets the riverside main drag at the Piazza Bocca della Verità, home to two of the city’s better-preserved Roman temples, the Temple of Portunus and the Temple of Hercules Victor – the oldest surviving marble structure in Rome and long known as the Temple of Vesta because, like all vestal temples, it’s circular. Both date from the end of the second century BC, and although you can’t get inside, they’re worth a look as ﬁne examples of republican-era places of worship. More interesting is the church of Santa Maria in Cosmedin on the far side of the square (daily 10am–5pm), a typically Roman medieval basilica with a huge marble altar and a colourful and ingenious Cosmati-work marble mosaic ﬂoor – one of the city’s ﬁnest. Outside in the portico, and giving the square its name, is the Bocca della Verità (Mouth of Truth), an ancient Roman drain cover in the shape of an enormous face that in medieval times would apparently swallow the hand of anyone who hadn’t told the truth. It was particularly popular with husbands anxious to test the faithfulness of their wives; now it is one of the city’s biggest tour-bus attractions.

Ancient Rome

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There are remnants of the ancient Roman era all over the city, but the most concentrated and central grouping – which for simplicity’s sake we’ve called Ancient Rome – is the area that stretches southeast from the Capitoline Hill. It’s a reasonably traffic-free and self-contained part of the city, but it wasn’t always like this. Mussolini ploughed Via dei Fori Imperiali through here in the 1930s, with the intention of turning it into one giant archeological park, and this to some extent is what it is. You could spend a good day or so picking your way through the rubble of what was once the heart of the ancient world.

Trajan’s Markets and the Imperial Forums

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One of the major victims of Mussolini’s plan was the Imperial Forums, which were built as ancient Rome grew in power and the Forum proper became too small. The ruins of forums built by Caesar, Augustus and Trajan, among others, litter either side of the Via dei Fori Imperiali, and are still being excavated. But you can visit the largest and latest of these, the Forum of Trajan, which was constructed at what was probably the very pinnacle of Roman power and prestige and incorporates the crescent of shops and arcades known as Trajan’s Markets (Tues–Sun: April–Oct 9am–7pm; Nov–March 9am–5pm; €6.50). Accessible from Via IV Novembre, the Great Hall here is an impressive two-storeyed space, and incorporates a number of ﬁnds from the Imperial Forums, including a colossal head of Constantine, a torso of a warrior, part of the temple of the Forum of Augustus and a bit of the frieze from Casear’s temple of Venus Genetrix – three columns of which still stand in the Forum of Caesar across the road, and are viewable from the terrace upstairs. Afterwards descend to the Via Biberatica, whose shops and taverns wind around the bottom of the arcade before climbing to the belvedere for a better view over the forum proper, the most notable remains of which are the column stumps of the massive Basilica Ulpia, and the enormous Column of Trajan next to it – erected to celebrate the emperor’s victories in Dacia (modern Romania) in 112 AD, and covered from top to bottom with reliefs commemorating the highlights of the campaign. The Roman Forum

The ﬁve or so acres that make up the Roman Forum were once the heart of the Mediterranean world, and, although the glories of ancient Rome are hard to glimpse here now, there’s a symbolic allure to the place, and at certain times of day a desolate drama, that make it one of the most compelling sets of ruins anywhere in the world. You need some imagination and a little history to really appreciate the place but the public spaces are easy enough to discern, especially the spinal Via Sacra, the best-known street of ancient Rome, along which victorious emperors and generals would ride in procession to give thanks at the Capitoline’s Temple of Juno. Towards the Capitoline Hill end of the Via Sacra, the large cube-shaped building is the Curia, built on the orders of Julius Caesar as part of his programme for expanding the Forum, although what you see now is a third-century-AD reconstruction. The Senate met here, and inside three wide stairs rise left and right, on which about 300 senators could be accommodated with their folding chairs. Arch of Septimius Severus to the House of the Vestal Virgins

Nearby, the Arch of Septimius Severus was constructed in the early third century AD by his sons Caracalla and Galba to mark their father’s victories in what is now Iran. The friezes on it recall Severus and in particular Caracalla,

Visiting the Forum, Palatine and Colosseum The Forum, Palatine and Colosseum are accessible either by the Via dei Fori Imperiali entrance to the Forum or the Palatine entrance on Via di San Gregorio. You can also exit at the Colosseum end of the Forum, or at the opposite end, where you join the path up to the Capitoline Hill. All three sites are open every day during the following hours: mid-Feb to mid-March 8.30am–4pm; mid- to end March 8.30am–4.30pm; April–Aug 8.30am–6.15pm; Sept 8.30am–6pm; Oct 8.30am–5.30pm; Nov to mid-Feb 8.30am–3.30pm. Tickets cost €12 for all three sites (18–24-year-olds €7.50) and are valid for one day. There are guided tours of the Forum in English every day at 1pm, and of the Palatine at noon; both cost €4. Audioguides cost €4.50.

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who ruled Rome with a reign of undisciplined terror for seven years having murdered his brother. Next to the arch, the low brown wall is the Rostra, from which important speeches were made (it was from here that Mark Anthony most likely spoke about Caesar after his death), to the left of which are the long stairs of the Basilica Julia, built by Julius Caesar in the 50s BC after he returned from the Gallic wars. A bit further along, on the right, rails mark the site of the Lacus Curtius, the spot where, according to legend, a chasm opened during the earliest days of the city and the soothsayers determined that it would only be closed once Rome had sacriﬁced its most valuable possession into it. Marcus Curtius, a Roman soldier who declared that Rome’s most valuable possession was a loyal citizen, hurled himself and his horse into the void and it duly closed. Next to the Basilica Julia, the enormous pile of rubble topped by three graceful Corinthian columns is the Temple of Castor and Pollux, dedicated in 484 BC to the divine twins or Dioscuri, who appeared miraculously to ensure victory for the Romans in a key battle. Beyond here, the House of the Vestal Virgins is a secondcentury-AD reconstruction of a building originally built by Nero: four ﬂoors of rooms around a central courtyard, fringed by the statues or inscribed pedestals of the women themselves, with the round Temple of Vesta at the near end. The Basilica of Maxentius and the Arch of Titus

Almost opposite, across the Via Sacra, a shady walkway to the left leads to the Basilica of Maxentius, in terms of size and ingenuity probably the Forum’s most impressive remains. Begun by Maxentius, it was continued by his co-emperor and rival, Constantine, after he had defeated him at the Battle of the Milvian Bridge in 312 AD. From here the Via Sacra climbs more steeply to the Arch of Titus, built by Titus’s brother, Domitian, after the emperor’s death in 81 AD, to commemorate his victories in Judea in 70 AD, and his triumphal return from that campaign. The Palatine Hill

Rising above the Roman Forum, the Palatine Hill (for opening hours, see box, p.645) is supposedly where the city of Rome was founded, and is home to some of its most ancient remains. In a way it’s a more pleasant site to tour than the Forum, and a good place to have a picnic and relax after the rigours of the ruins below. In the days of the Republic, the Palatine was the most desirable address in Rome (the word “palace” is derived from Palatine), and big names continued to colonize it during the imperial era, trying to outdo each other with ever larger and more magniﬁcent dwellings. The site

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Along the main path up from the Forum, the Domus Flavia was once one of the most splendid residences, and, to the left, the top level of the gargantuan Domus Augustana spreads to the far brink of the hill – not the home of Augustus as its name suggests, but the private house of any emperor (or “Augustus”). You can look down from here on its vast central courtyard with fountain and wander to the brink of the deep trench of the Stadium. On the far side of the Stadium, the ruins of the Domus and Baths of Septimius Severus cling to the side of the hill, while the large grey building nearby houses the Museo Palatino, which contains an assortment of statuary, pottery and architectural fragments that have been excavated on the Palatine during the last 150 years. In the opposite direction from the Domus Flavia is the Cryptoporticus, a long passage built by Nero to link the vestibule of his Domus Aurea (see box, p.653) with the Palatine palaces, and decorated with well-preserved Roman stuccowork at the far end, towards the House of Livia – originally believed to have been the residence of Livia,

The Arch of Constantine

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Outside the Colosseum exit of the Forum, the huge Arch of Constantine on your right was placed here in the early decades of the fourth century AD after Constantine had consolidated his power as sole emperor. The arch demonstrates the deterioration of the arts during the late stages of the Roman Empire – most of the sculptural decoration here had to be removed from other monuments, and the builders were probably quite ignorant of the signiﬁcance of the pieces they borrowed: the round medallions are taken from a temple dedicated to the Emperor Hadrian’s lover, Antinous, and show Antinous and Hadrian engaged in a hunt. The other pieces, taken from the Forum of Trajan, show Dacian prisoners captured in Trajan’s war.

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the wife of Augustus, though now identiﬁed as simply part of the House of Augustus – the set of ruins beyond. Climb up the steps by the entrance to the Cryptoporticus and you’re in the bottom corner of the Farnese Gardens, among the ﬁrst botanical gardens in Europe, laid out by Cardinal Alessandro Farnese in the mid-sixteenth century and now a tidily planted retreat from the exposed heat of the ruins. At the far end of the gardens are the traces of an Iron Age village that perhaps marks the real centre of Rome’s ancient beginnings.

The Colosseum

The Colosseum (for opening hours, see box, p.645) is perhaps Rome’s most awe-inspiring ancient monument, an enormous structure that despite the depredations of nearly two thousand years of earthquakes, ﬁres, riots, wars and, not least, plundering for its seemingly inexhaustible supply of ready-cut travertine blocks, still stands relatively intact – a recognizable symbol not just of the city of Rome, but of the entire ancient world. It’s not much more than a shell now, eaten away by pollution and cracked by the vibrations of cars and the metro, but the basic structure is easy to see, and has served as a model for stadiums around the world ever since. You’ll not be alone in appreciating it and during summer the combination of people and scaffolding can make a visit more like touring a contemporary building-site than an ancient monument. But visit late in the evening or early morning before the tour buses have arrived, and the arena can seem more like the marvel it really is. Originally known as the Flavian Amphitheatre (the name Colosseum is a much later invention), it was begun around 72 AD by the Emperor Vespasian. Inside, there was room for a total of around 60,000 people seated and 10,000 or so standing. Seating was allocated according to social status, with the emperor and his attendants naturally occupying the best seats in the house, and the social class of the spectators diminishing as you got nearer the top. There was a labyrinth below that was covered with a wooden ﬂoor and punctuated at various places for trap doors that could be opened as required, and lifts to raise and lower the animals that were to take part in the games. The ﬂoor was covered with canvas to make it waterproof and the canvas was covered with several centimetres of sand to absorb blood; in fact, our word “arena” is derived from the Latin word for sand.

The Tridente The northern part of Rome’s centre is sometimes known as the Tridente on account of the trident shape of the roads leading down from the apex of Piazza del Popolo – Via di Ripetta, Via del Corso and Via del Babuino. The area east of Via del Corso, focusing on Piazza di Spagna, was historically the artistic quarter of the city, and eighteenth- and nineteenth-century Grand Tourists would

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come here in search of the colourful and exotic. Keats and Giorgio de Chirico are just two of those who lived on Piazza di Spagna; Goethe had lodgings on Via del Corso; and institutions like Caffè Greco and Babington’s Tea Rooms were the meeting-places of the local expat community for close on a couple of centuries. Today these institutions have given ground to more latter-day traps for the tourist dollar, and the area around Via dei Condotti is these days strictly international designer territory. But the air of a Rome being discovered – even colonized – by foreigners persists, even if most of those hanging out on the Spanish Steps are ﬂying-visit teenagers. South of the Tridente, the area around the Trevi Fountain is similarly thronged by tourists, but not unpleasantly so, and the knot of streets around the fountain holds a few less essential stops and are a logical prelude to the sights of the Quirinale Hill immediately above (see p.650).

| The City

Via del Corso

The central prong of the Tridente and the boundary of the historic centre to the east, Via del Corso is Rome’s main thoroughfare, leading all the way from Piazza Venezia at its southern end up to Piazza del Popolo to the north. On its eastern side, it gives onto the swish shopping streets that lead up to Piazza di Spagna; on the western side the web of streets tangles its way right down to the Tiber. It is Rome’s principal shopping street, home to a mixture of upmarket boutiques and chain stores that make it a busy stretch during the day, full of hurrying pedestrians and crammed buses, but a relatively dead one after dark. The good news is that the top end, beyond Piazza Colonna, where the bulk of the shops are, is pedestrianized, so shopping and strolling is much easier and more enjoyable. Piazza di Spagna

Via del Babuino leads down from Piazza del Popolo to Piazza di Spagna, a long straggle of a square almost entirely enclosed by buildings and centring on the distinctive boat-shaped Barcaccia fountain, the last work of Bernini’s father. It apparently remembers the great ﬂood of Christmas Day 1598, when a barge from the Tiber was washed up on the slopes of Pincio Hill here. The Keats-Shelley House

Fronting the square, opposite the fountain, is the house where the poet John Keats died in 1821. It now serves as the Keats-Shelley House (Mon–Fri 10am–1pm & 2–6pm, Sat 11am–2pm & 3–6pm; €4; W www.keats-shelley-house.org), an archive of English-language literary and historical works and a museum of manuscripts and literary memorabilia relating to the Keats circle of the early nineteenth century – namely the poet himself, Shelley and Mary Shelley, and Byron (who at one time lived across the square). Among many bits of manuscript, letters and the like, there’s a silver scallop-shell reliquary containing locks of Milton’s and Elizabeth Barrett Browning’s hair, while Keats’s death mask, stored in the room where he died, captures a resigned grimace. Keats didn’t really enjoy his time in Rome, referring to it as his “posthumous life”: he was tormented by his love for Fanny Brawne, and spent months in pain before he died, conﬁned to the rooming house with his artist friend Joseph Severn, to whom he remarked that he could already feel “the ﬂowers growing over him”. The Spanish Steps 648

The only Spanish feature of the Spanish Steps (Scalinata di Spagna) is the fact that they lead down to the Spanish Embassy, which also gave the piazza its name. Sweeping down in a cascade of balustrades and balconies, in the nineteenth century the steps were the hangout of young hopefuls waiting to be chosen as artists’ models.

Piazza del Popolo

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The oval-shaped expanse of Piazza del Popolo is a digniﬁed meeting of roads, now pedestrianized, that was laid out in 1538 by Pope Paul III (Alessandro Farnese) to make an impressive entrance to the city. The monumental Porta del Popolo went up in 1655, and was the work of Bernini, whose patron Alexander VII’s Chigi family symbol – the heap of hills surmounted by a star – can clearly be seen above the main gateway. During summer, the steps around the obelisk and fountain, and the cafés on either side of the square, are popular hangouts. But the square’s real attraction is the unbroken view it gives all the way down Via del Corso, to the central columns of the Vittoriano. If you get to choose your ﬁrst view of the centre of Rome, make it this one.

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Nowadays the scene is not much changed, with the steps providing the venue for international posing and ﬂirting late into the summer nights. At the top is the Trinità dei Monti, a largely sixteenth-century church designed by Carlo Maderno and paid for by the French king. Its rose-coloured Baroque facade overlooks the rest of Rome from its hilltop site, and it’s worth clambering up just for the views, but do look inside for a couple of works by Daniele da Volterra, notably a soft, ﬂowing fresco of the Assumption in the third chapel on the right, which includes a portrait of his teacher Michelangelo, and a Deposition across the nave.

Santa Maria del Popolo

On the far side of the piazza, hard against the city walls, Santa Maria del Popolo (Mon–Sat 7am–noon & 4–7pm, Sun 8am–1.30pm & 4.30–7.30pm) holds some of the best Renaissance art of any Roman church. It was originally erected here in 1099 over the supposed burial place of Nero, in order to sanctify what was believed to be an evil place. Inside, the Chigi chapel, second on the left, was designed by Raphael for Agostino Chigi in 1516. Michelangelo’s protégé, Sebastiano del Piombo, was responsible for the altarpiece, and two of the sculptures in the corner niches, of Daniel and Habakkuk, are by Bernini. But it’s two pictures by Caravaggio in the left-hand chapel of the north transept that attract the most attention. These are typically dramatic works – one, the Conversion of St Paul, showing Paul and horse bathed in a beatiﬁc radiance; the other, the Cruciﬁxion of St Peter, depicting Peter as an aged but strong ﬁgure, dominated by the muscular ﬁgures hoisting him up. Ara Pacis

Via Ripetta runs southwest from Piazza del Popolo into Piazza del Augusta Imperatore, an odd square of largely Mussolini-era buildings, dominated by the massive Mausoleum of Augustus, burial place of the emperor and his family and now under long-term restoration. On the far side of the square, the Ara Pacis Augustae or “Altar of Augustan Peace” is now enclosed in a controversial purpose-built structure designed by the New York-based architect Richard Meier, its angular lines and sheer white surfaces dominating the Tiber side of the square (daily 9am–7pm; €6.50). The altar is a more substantially recognizable Roman remain than the mausoleum, a marble block enclosed by sculpted walls built in 13 BC, probably to celebrate Augustus’s victory over Spain and Gaul and the peace it heralded. It’s a superb example of Roman sculpture, with a frieze on one side showing the imperial family at the height of its power: Augustus, his great general Marcus Agrippa, and Augustus’s wife Livia, followed by a victory procession containing her son – and Augustus’s eventual successor – Tiberius and niece Antonia, the latter caught simply and realistically turning to her husband, Drusus. On the opposite side the veiled ﬁgure is believed to be Julia, Augustus’s daughter.

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The Trevi Fountain

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| The City

South of the Piazza di Spagna area, across Via del Tritone, is one of Rome’s more surprising sights, easy to stumble on by accident – the Trevi Fountain or Fontana di Trevi, a huge, very Baroque gush of water over statues and rocks built onto the backside of a Renaissance palace and fed by the same source that surfaces at the Barcaccia fountain in Piazza di Spagna. There was a previous Trevi fountain, designed by Alberti, around the corner in Via dei Crociferi, a smaller, more modest affair by all accounts, but Urban VIII decided to upgrade it in line with his other grandiose schemes of the time and employed Bernini, among others, to design an alternative. Work didn’t begin, however, until 1732, when Niccolò Salvi won a competition held by Clement XII to design the fountain, and even then it took thirty years to ﬁnish the project. Salvi died in the process, his lungs destroyed by the time spent in the dank waterworks of his construction. The fountain is now a popular hangout and, of course, the place you come to chuck in a coin if you want to guarantee your return to Rome. You might also remember Anita Ekberg frolicking in the fountain in La Dolce Vita, though any attempt at re-creating the scene would be met with an immediate reaction by the police here. Galleria Colonna

A short stroll south from the Trevi Fountain brings you to the Galleria Colonna, at Via della Pilotta 17 (Sat 9am–1pm, free guided tours in English at 11.45am; closed Aug; €7), part of the Palazzo Colonna complex and home to one of the city’s best collections of ﬁne art still in private hands. The building itself is worth visiting for the massive chandelier-decked Great Hall, but the paintings, too, are worthy of attention, not least the two lascivious depictions of Venus and Cupid (one by Bronzino, the other Ghirlandaio) that eye each other across the room – once considered so risqué that clothes were painted on them and have only recently been removed. Through the Great Hall is the gallery’s collection of landscapes by Dughet (Poussin’s brother-in-law), and beyond that a small group of other high-quality works: Carracci’s early and unusually spontaneous Bean Eater, Tintoretto’s Portrait of an Old Man and a Portrait of a Gentleman caught in supremely conﬁdent pose by Veronese. Not a bad way to spend a Saturday morning in Rome. Museo delle Cere and the Time Elevator

The Museo delle Cere, which occupies the other side of the Palazzo Colonna (daily 9am–8pm; €7), is a quirky ﬁrst-ﬂoor museum of waxworks that hosts a diverse array of characters from history and Italian culture: not essential viewing by any means but certainly different from anything else you’ll see in Rome, with wax ﬁgures of everyone from Mussolini to Francesco Totti. Close by, at Via SS. Apostoli 20, is the Time Elevator (daily 10.30am–7.30pm; €12, children €9), a multimedia ﬁlm show of the history of Rome from its founding to the present day, with visitors strapped into a chair that moves around a bit like a ﬂight simulator – a half-hour or so the kids might enjoy.

The Quirinale and around Of the hills that rise up on the eastern side of the centre of Rome, the Quirinale is perhaps the most appealing, home to some of the city’s greatest palaces, but also to some of Rome’s greatest collections, not least in the Palazzo Barberini. Piazza Barberini 650

Piazza Barberini, a frenetic traffic junction at the top end of the busy shopping street of Via del Tritone, was named after Bernini’s Fontana del Tritone, which gushes a high jet of water in the centre of the square. Traditionally, this was the

Via Veneto

The Capuchin cemetery

| The City

Via Veneto bends north from Piazza Barberini up to the southern edge of the Borghese gardens, its pricey bars and restaurants lining a street that was once the haunt of Rome’s beautiful people, made famous by Fellini’s La Dolce Vita. They left a long time ago, however, and Via Veneto isn’t really any different from other busy streets in central Rome – a pretty, tree-lined road, but with a fair share of high-class tack trying to cash in on departed glory.

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Barberini family’s quarter of the city; they were the greatest patrons of Gian Lorenzo Bernini, and the sculptor’s works in their honour are thick on the ground around here. He ﬁnished the Tritone fountain in 1644, going on shortly after to design the Fontana delle Api (“Fountain of the Bees”) at the bottom end of Via Veneto. Unlike the Tritone fountain you could walk right past this; it’s a smaller, quirkier work, with a broad scallop shell studded with the bees that were the symbol of the Barberini.

A little way up Via Veneto on the right, the Capuchin church of Santa Maria della Concezione (daily 9am–noon & 3–6pm) was another sponsored creation of the Barberini, though it’s not a particularly signiﬁcant building in itself and most people come to see its Capuchin cemetery (same times; minimum €1 donation), one of Rome’s more macabre and bizarre sights. Here, the bones of four thousand monks are set into the walls of a series of chapels, a monument to “Our Sister of Bodily Death” in the words of St Francis, which was erected in 1793. The bones appear in abstract or Christian patterns or as fully clothed skeletons, their faces peering out of their cowls in various twisted expressions of agony. Palazzo Barberini

On the other side of Piazza Barberini, the vast Palazzo Barberini, at Via Barberini 18, is home to the Galleria d’Arte Antica (Tues–Sun 8.30am–7.30pm; €5), a rich patchwork of mainly Italian art from the early Renaissance to late Baroque period that is in a constant state of rearrangement due to its ongoing restoration. Entry is by way of the spiral staircase on the right, the work of Borromini, which takes you up to the Gran Salone, dominated by Pietro da Cortona’s manic fresco The Triumph of Divine Providence, which is truly one of the city’s best free attractions, as the ticket office lies just beyond. In the gallery proper, Raphael’s beguiling Fornarina is the ﬁrst thing you see, a painting of the daughter of a Trasteveran baker thought to have been Raphael’s mistress (Raphael’s name appears clearly on the woman’s bracelet); there’s also Fra’ Filippo Lippi’s warmly maternal Madonna and Child, painted in 1437 and introducing background details, notably architecture, into Italian religious painting for the ﬁrst time; a room full of portraits, including Bronzino’s rendering of the marvellously erect Stefano Colonna; and portraits of both Henry VIII and St Thomas More by Hans Holbein, as well as Guido Reni’s haunting depiction of Beatrice Cenci. San Carlo and Sant’Andrea

Heading southeast of Palazzo Barberini, along Via delle Quattro Fontane, brings you to a seventeenth-century landmark, the church of San Carlo alle Quattro Fontane (Mon–Sat 10am–1pm & 3–6pm, Sun noon–1pm). This was Borromini’s ﬁrst real design commission, and in it he displays all the ingenuity he later became famous for, cramming the church elegantly into a tiny and awkwardly shaped site. Outside the church are the four fountains that give the street and church their name, each cut into a niche in a corner of the crossroads that marks this, the highest

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point on the Quirinal Hill. There’s another piece of design ingenuity a few steps southwest, on Via del Quirinale: the domed church of Sant’Andrea al Quirinale (Mon–Sat 8.30am–noon & 3.30–7pm, Sun 9am–noon & 3.30–7.30pm), which Bernini planned as a kind of ﬂat oval shape to ﬁt into its wide but shallow site. Like San Carlo, it’s unusual and ingenious inside; the upstairs rooms where the Polish saint, St Stanislaus Kostka, lived (and died) in 1568 focus on a disturbingly lifelike painted statue of Stanislaus lying on his deathbed. The Palazzo del Quirinale

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Opposite the church is the featureless wall of the Palazzo del Quirinale (Sun 8.30am–noon; €5), a sixteenth-century structure that was the official summer residence of the popes until Uniﬁcation, when it became the royal palace. It’s now the home of Italy’s president, and it’s worth braving the security for a glimpse of the style in which popes, despots, kings and now presidents like to live, with a ﬁne set of state rooms and works of art. You can appreciate its exceptional siting from the Piazza del Quirinale, from which views stretch right across the centre of Rome. The main feature of the piazza is the huge statue of the Dioscuri, or Castor and Pollux – massive ﬁve-metre-high Roman copies of classical Greek statues, showing the two godlike twins, sons of Jupiter, who according to legend won victory for the Romans in an important battle. The eighteenth-century papal stables, or Scuderie del Quirinale (W www .scuderiequirinale.it), face the palace from across the square. Imaginatively restored as display space for major exhibitions, they feature an impressive equestrian spiral staircase winding up to the exhibition rooms. The modern glass staircase on the side of the building offers the best view over Rome from the Quirinale by far. Via XX Settembre and Santa Maria della Vittoria

Via XX Settembre spears out towards the Aurelian Wall from Via del Quirinale – not Rome’s most appealing thoroughfare by any means, ﬂanked by the deliberately faceless bureaucracies of the national government, erected after Uniﬁcation in anticipation of Rome’s ascension as a new world capital. It was, however, the route by which Italian troops entered the city on September 20, 1870; the place where they breached the wall is marked with a column. The church of Santa Maria della Vittoria here (Mon–Sat 8.30am–noon & 3.30–6pm, Sun 3.30–6pm) was built by the Baroque-era architect Carlo Maderno and its interior is one of the most elaborate examples of Baroque decoration in Rome: its ceiling and walls are pitted with carving, and statues are crammed into remote corners as in an over-stuffed attic. The church’s best-known feature, Bernini’s carving the Ecstasy of St Theresa, the centrepiece of the sepulchral chapel of Cardinal Cornaro, is a deliberately melodramatic work featuring a theatrically posed St Theresa, who lays back in groaning submission beneath a mass of dishevelled garments in front of the murmuring cardinals.

The Esquiline, Monti and Termini

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Immediately north of the Colosseum, the Esquiline Hill is the highest and largest of the city’s seven hills. Formerly one of the most fashionable residential quarters of ancient Rome, it’s nowadays a mixed area that together with the adjacent Viminale Hill make up the district known as Monti, an appealing and up-andcoming quarter of cobbled streets and neighbourhood bars and restaurants. It’s also an area that most travellers to Rome encounter at some point – not just because of key sights like the basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore, but also because of its proximity to Termini, whose environs shelter many of Rome’s budget hotels.

The Domus Aurea

San Pietro in Vincoli (daily: April–Sept 8am–12.30pm & 3.30–7pm; Oct–March 8am–12.30pm & 3–6pm) is one of Rome’s most delightfully plain churches. It was built to house an important relic, the chains (vincoli) that bound St Peter when imprisoned in Jerusalem and those that held him in the Mamertine Prison, which miraculously fused together when they were brought into contact with each other. The chains can still be seen in the confessio beneath the high altar, but most people come for the tomb of Pope Julius II at the far end of the southern aisle. The tomb occupied Michelangelo on and off for much of his career and was the cause of many a dispute with Julius and his successors. The artist eventually gave it up to paint the Sistine Chapel – the only statues that he managed to complete are the Moses, Leah and Rachel, which remain here, and two Dying Slaves (now in the Louvre). The ﬁgures are among the artist’s most captivating works, especially Moses: because of a medieval mistranslation of scripture, he is depicted with satyr’s horns instead of the “radiance of the Lord” that Exodus tells us shone around his head. Nonetheless this powerful statue is so lifelike that Michelangelo is alleged to have struck its knee with his hammer and shouted “Speak, damn you!”

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San Pietro in Vincoli

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One of the Esquiline Hill’s most intriguing sights is without doubt Nero’s Domus Aurea, or Golden House, though unfortunately this is currently closed indeﬁnitely due to ﬂooding and conservation problems. Once covering a vast area between the Palatine and Esquiline, it was built by the Emperor Nero to glorify himself in typical excessive fashion. Rome was accustomed to Nero’s excesses, but it had never seen anything like the Golden House before; the facade was supposed to have been coated in solid gold, there was hot and cold running water in the baths, and the grounds held vineyards and game. Nero didn’t get to enjoy it for long: he died a couple of years after it was ﬁnished, and later emperors were determined to erase it from Rome’s cityscape. Vespasian built the Colosseum over the lake and Trajan built his baths on top of the rest of the complex. But if and when it reopens you can view some of the paintings that so captivated artists when it was rediscovered during the Renaissance.

Monti and Santa Maria Maggiore

Steps lead down from San Pietro in Vincoli to Via Cavour, a busy central thoroughfare slashed through the Monti neighbourhood in the 1890s to connect the station district to the river – although the last part was never completed. As you walk north towards Santa Maria Maggiore, the streets off to the left are worth a wander and form Monti’s most atmospheric quarter, focusing on Via dei Serpenti and Via del Boschetto, and the narrow streets between them. After about half a kilometre, the street widens to reveal Santa Maria Maggiore (daily 7am–7pm), one of the city’s greatest basilicas, and with one of Rome’s best-preserved Byzantine interiors – a fact belied by its dull eighteenth-century exterior. Unlike the other great places of pilgrimage in Rome, Santa Maria Maggiore was not built on any special Constantinian site, but instead went up during the ﬁfth century after the Council of Ephesus recognized the cult of the Virgin, and churches venerating Our Lady began to spring up all over the Christian world. According to legend, the Virgin Mary appeared to Pope Liberius in a dream on the night of August 4, 352 AD, telling him to build a church on the Esquiline Hill, on a spot where he would ﬁnd a patch of newly fallen snow the next morning. The snow would outline exactly the plan of the church that should be built there in her honour – which of course is exactly what happened, and the ﬁrst church here was called Santa Maria della Neve (“of the snow”).

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The interior

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The present structure dates from about 420 AD, and was completed during the reign of Sixtus III, and survives remarkably intact, the broad nave fringed on both sides with strikingly well kept mosaics. The chapel in the right transept holds the elaborate tomb of Sixtus V – another, less famous, Sistine Chapel, decorated with frescoes and stucco reliefs portraying events from his reign. Outside this is the tomb of the Bernini family, including Gian Lorenzo himself, while opposite, the Pauline Chapel is home to the tombs of the Borghese pope Paul V and his immediate predecessor Clement VIII. The high altar contains the relics of St Matthew, among other Christian martyrs, but it’s the mosaics of the arch that really dazzle, a vivid representation of scenes from the life of Christ. There’s a museum underneath the basilica that sports what even by Roman standards is a wide variety of relics (daily 9am–6.30pm; €4), and a loggia above the main entrance whose thirteenth-century mosaics of the “legend of the snow” are worth seeing (tours daily at 9am & 1pm, bookable in advance; T 06.446.5836; €3). Santa Prassede

South of Santa Maria Maggiore, off Via Merulana, the ninth-century church of Santa Prassede (daily 7am–noon & 4–6.30pm) occupies an ancient site, where it’s claimed St Prassede harboured Christians on the run from the Roman persecutions. She apparently collected the blood and remains of the martyrs and placed them in a well where she herself was later buried; a red marble disc in the ﬂoor of the nave marks the spot. In the southern aisle, the Chapel of St Zeno was built by Pope Paschal I as a mausoleum for his mother, Theodora, and is decorated with marvellous ninth-century mosaics that make it glitter like a jewel-encrusted bowl. The chapel also contains a fragment of a column supposed to be the one to which Christ was tied when he was scourged. Via Nazionale and Piazza della Repubblica

A couple of minutes’ walk from Via XX Settembre, Via Nazionale connects Piazza Venezia and the centre of town with the area around Termini and the eastern districts beyond. A focus for much development after Uniﬁcation, its heavy, overbearing buildings were constructed to give Rome some semblance of modern sophistication when it became capital, but most are now occupied by hotels and mainstream shops and boutiques. About halfway down, the imposing Palazzo delle Esposizioni at Via Nazionale 194 (Tues–Thurs & Sun 10am–8pm, Fri & Sat 10am–10.30pm; W www.palazzoesposizioni.it) was designed in 1883 by Pio Piacentini (father of the more famous Marcello, favourite architect of Mussolini), and reopened with much fanfare in 2008 after a ﬁve-year revamp. It now hosts regular large-scale exhibitions and houses a cinema, an excellent art and design bookshop and café in its basement, and the fancy Open Colonna restaurant up above. At the top of Via Nazionale, Piazza della Repubblica is typical of Rome’s nineteenth-century regeneration, a stern and digniﬁed semicircle of buildings that was until recently rather dilapidated but is now – with the help of the very stylish Hotel Exedra – resurgent, centring on a fountain surrounded by languishing nymphs and sea monsters. Santa Maria degli Angeli 654

Piazza della Repubblica actually follows the outlines of the exedra of the Baths of Diocletian, the remains of which lie across the piazza and are partially contained in the church of Santa Maria degli Angeli (Mon–Sat 7am–6.30pm, Sun 7am–7.30pm), one of Rome’s least welcoming churches but giving the best

Museo delle Terme di Diocleziano

| The City

Behind Santa Maria degli Angeli, the huge halls and courtyards of the Museo delle Terme di Diocleziano, or Diocletian’s baths (Tues–Sun 9am–7pm; €7), have been renovated and they and an attached Carthusian monastery now hold what is probably the least interesting part of the Museo Nazionale Romano (see box, p.630). The museum’s most evocative part is the large cloister of the church whose sides are crammed with statuary, funerary monuments and sarcophagi and fragments from all over Rome. The galleries that wrap around the cloister hold a reasonable if rather academically presented collection of pre-Roman and Roman ﬁnds: busts, terracotta statues, armour and weapons found in Roman tombs.

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impression of the size and grandeur of Diocletian’s baths complex. It’s a huge, open building, with an interior standardized by Vanvitelli into a rich eighteenth-century confection. The pink granite pillars, at nine feet in diameter the largest in Rome, are original, and the main transept formed the main hall of the baths. The meridian that strikes diagonally across the ﬂoor here was until 1846 the regulator of time for Romans (now a cannon shot is ﬁred daily at noon from the Janiculum Hill).

Palazzo Massimo

Across from Santa Maria degli Angeli, the Palazzo Massimo, Largo Perretti 1 (Tues–Sun 9am–7pm; €7, part of the Museo Nazionale Romano – see box, p.630), is one of the great museums of Rome, with something worth seeing on every ﬂoor. The basement and ground ﬂoors

Start at the basement where there are displays of exquisite gold jewellery from the second century AD, and the mummiﬁed remains of an eight-year-old girl, along with a fantastic coin collection. The ground ﬂoor is devoted to statuary of the early empire, including a gallery with an unparalleled selection of unidentiﬁed busts found all over Rome – amazing pieces of portraiture, and as vivid a representation of patrician Roman life as you’ll ﬁnd. There are also identiﬁable faces – a bronze of Germanicus, a marvellous small bust of Caligula, several representations of Livia and a hooded statue of Augustus. Note the superb examples of Roman copies of Greek statuary – an altar found on Via Nomentana stands out, decorated with ﬁgures relating to the cult of Bacchus, as well as statues of Aphrodite and Melponome. The ﬁrst and second ﬂoors

The ﬁrst ﬂoor has sculpted portraits of the various imperial dynasties in roughly chronological order, starting with the Flavian emperors – the craggy determination of Vespasian, the pinched nobility of Nerva – and leading on to Trajan, who appears with his wife Plotina as Hercules, next to a bust of his cousin Hadrian. The collection continues with the Antonine emperors – Antoninus Pius in a heroic nude pose and in several busts, ﬂanked by likenesses of his daughter Faustina Minor. Faustina was the wife of Antoninus’s successor, Marcus Aurelius, who appears in the next room. Further on are the Severans, with the ﬁerce-looking Caracalla looking across past his father Septimius Severus to his brother Geta, whom he later murdered. Finally there’s the second ﬂoor, which takes in some of the ﬁnest Roman frescoes and mosaics ever found. There’s a stunning set of frescoes from the Villa di Livia, depicting an orchard dense with fruit and ﬂowers and patrolled by partridges and doves, wall paintings rescued from what was perhaps the riverside villa of Augustus’s daughter Julia and Marcus Agrippa, and mosaics showing four chariot drivers and their horses, so ﬁnely crafted that from a distance they look as if they’ve been painted.

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Termini station

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Across the street is the low white facade of Termini station (so named for its proximity to the Baths or “Terme” of Diocletian) and the vast, bus-crammed hubbub that is Piazza dei Cinquecento in front. The station is an ambitious piece of modern architectural design that was completed in 1950 and still entirely dominates the streets around with its low-slung, futuristic lines. As for Piazza dei Cinquecento, it’s a good place to ﬁnd buses and taxis, but otherwise it and the areas around are not places you’d want to hang around for long. San Lorenzo fuori le Mura

| The City

A short walk from Termini, the studenty neighbourhood of San Lorenzo takes its name from the basilica of San Lorenzo fuori le Mura – one of the great pilgrimage churches of Rome, fronted by a columned portico and with a lovely twelfth-century cloister to its side (daily: summer 7am–12.30pm & 4–8pm; winter 7.30am–12.30pm & 3.30–7pm). The original church here was built over the site of St Lawrence’s martyrdom by Constantine – the saint was reputedly burned to death on a gridiron, halfway through his ordeal apparently uttering the immortal words, “Turn me, I am done on this side.” Where the church of San Lorenzo differs is that it is actually a combination of three churches built at different periods – one a sixth-century reconstruction of Constantine’s church by Pelagius II, which now forms the chancel, another a ﬁfth-century church from the time of Sixtus III, both joined by a basilica from the thirteenth century by Honorius II. Because of its proximity to Rome’s rail yards the church was bombed heavily during World War II, but it has been rebuilt with sensitivity, and inside there are features from all periods: a Cosmati ﬂoor, thirteenth-century pulpits and a Paschal candlestick, and a mosaic on the inside of the triumphal arch that is a sixth-century depiction of Pelagius offering his church to Christ; below stairs, catacombs – where St Lawrence was apparently buried – sit among pillars from Constantine’s original structure.

The Celian Hill and San Giovanni Some of the animals that were to die in the Colosseum were kept in a zoo up on the Celian Hill, just behind the arena, the furthest south of Rome’s seven hills and probably still its most peaceful, with the Villa Celimontana park at its heart. Santi Giovanni e Paolo and the Case Romane

At the summit of the Celian Hill, the church of Santi Giovanni e Paolo (daily 8.30am–noon & 3.30–6.30pm), marked by its colourful campanile, is dedicated to two government officials who were beheaded here in 316 AD after refusing military service; a railed-off tablet in mid-nave marks the shrine where the saints were martyred and buried. The remains of what is believed to be their house, the Case Romane, are around the corner on Clivo di Scauro (daily except Thurs–Mon 10am–1pm & 3–6pm; €6). Around twenty rooms are open in all, patchily frescoed with pagan and Christian subjects, including the Casa dei Genii, with winged youths and cupids, and the courtyard or nymphaeum, which has a marvellous fresco of a goddess being attended on. San Gregorio Magno

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The road descends from the church and Roman house to the church of San Gregorio Magno (daily 8.30am–12.30pm & 3–6.30pm), founded by St Gregory, who was a monk here before becoming pope in 590 AD. Gregory was an important pope, stabilizing the city after the fall of the empire and effectively establishing the powerful papal role that would endure for the best part of the following 1500 years. Today’s rather ordinary interior doesn’t really do justice

to the historical importance of the church, but the lovely Cosmati ﬂoor remains intact, and the chapel at the end of the south aisle has a beautifully carved bath showing scenes from St Gregory’s life along with his marble throne, a beaten-up specimen that actually predates the saint by ﬁve hundred years.

| The City

Down below the Celian Hill, ﬁve minutes’ walk from the Colosseum, the church of San Clemente is one of the most visited sights of Rome (church: daily 9am–7pm; free; excavations: Mon–Sat 9am–12.30pm & 3–6pm, Sun noon–6pm; €5), a creamcoloured twelfth-century basilica that’s a conglomeration of three places of worship, encapsulating perhaps better than any other the continuity of history in the city. The ground-ﬂoor church is a superb example of a medieval basilica: its facade and courtyard face east in the archaic fashion, there are some ﬁne, warm mosaics in the apse and – perhaps the highlight of the main church – a chapel with frescoes by Masolino, showing scenes from the life of St Catherine. Downstairs there’s the nave of an earlier church, dating to 392 AD, and on a third level a dank Mithraic temple of the late second century where you can see a statue of Mithras slaying the bull and the seats on which the worshippers sat during their ceremonies.

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San Clemente

San Giovanni in Laterano and the Lateran Palace

At the far end of Via San Giovanni in Laterano, a ten-minute walk from the Colosseum, the basilica of San Giovanni in Laterano (daily 7am–6.30pm) is officially Rome’s cathedral, the seat of the pope as bishop of Rome, and was for centuries the main papal residence. There has been a church on this site since the fourth century, the ﬁrst established by Constantine, and the present building, reworked by Borromini in the mid-seventeenth century, evokes Rome’s staggering wealth of history, with a host of features from different periods. The doors to the church were taken from the Curia of the Roman Forum, while much of the interior dates from 1600, when Clement VIII had the church remodelled for that Holy Year. The ﬁrst pillar on the left of the right-hand aisle shows a fragment of Giotto’s fresco of Boniface VIII, proclaiming the ﬁrst Holy Year in 1300. Further on, a more recent monument commemorates Sylvester I – “the magician pope”, bishop of Rome during much of Constantine’s reign – and incorporates part of his original tomb, said to sweat and rattle its bones when a pope is about to die. Kept secure behind the papal altar are the heads of St Peter and St Paul, the church’s prize relics. The cloisters, the Lateran Palace and the Baptistry

Outside, the cloisters (daily 9am–6pm; €2) are one of the most pleasing parts of the complex, decorated with early thirteenth-century Cosmati work and with fragments of the original basilica arranged around in no particular order. Adjoining the basilica is the Lateran Palace, part of which is given over to the Museo Storico Vaticano (daily visits on the hour 9am–noon; €5). Largely the work of Sixtus V, this is home to the Lateran Treaty, which ceded control of Rome and the papal territories to the Italian state and was signed on February 11, 1929, at the large writing-desk in the well-named Sala della Conciliazione. Next door, the Baptistry (daily 7am–12.30pm & 4–6.30pm; free) is the oldest surviving baptistry in the Christian world, a mosaic-lined, octagonal structure built during the ﬁfth century that has been the model for many such buildings since. The Scala Santa and Sancta Sanctorum

There are more ancient remains on the other side of the church, on Piazza di Porta San Giovanni, foremost of which is the Scala Santa (daily: April–Sept 6.15am– noon & 3.30–6.45pm; Oct–March until 6.15pm; free), said to be the staircase

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from Pontius Pilate’s house down which Christ walked after his trial. The 28 steps are protected by boards, and the only way you’re allowed to climb them is on your knees, which pilgrims do regularly – although there is also a staircase to the side for the less penitent. At the top, the Sancta Sanctorum or chapel of San Lorenzo holds an ancient (sixth- or seventh-century) painting of Christ said to be the work of an angel, hence its name – acheiropoeton, or “not done by human hands”.

The Aventine, Testaccio and south

| The City

The area south of the Forum and Palatine has some of the city’s most compelling Christian and ancient sights, from the relatively central Circo Massimo and Baths of Caracalla to the famous catacombs on the fringe of the city on Via Appia Antica. It also has one of Rome’s leaﬁest and most peaceful corners in the Aventine Hill, along with its funkiest neighbourhoods in Testaccio and up-and-coming Ostiense. The Circus Maxiumus and Aventine Hill

On its southern side, the Palatine Hill drops down to the Circus Maximus, a long, thin, green expanse bordered by heavily trafficked roads that was the ancient city’s main venue for chariot races; at one time this arena had a capacity of up to 400,000 spectators. On the far side of the Circus Maximus is the Aventine Hill, the southernmost of the city’s seven hills and the heart of plebeian Rome in ancient times. These days the working-class quarters of the city are further south, and the Aventine is in fact one of the city’s more upmarket residential areas, covered with villas and gardens and one of the few places in the city where you can escape the traffic. A short way up Via Santa Sabina, the church of Santa Sabina (daily 6.30am–12.45pm & 3–7pm) is a strong contender for Rome’s most beautiful basilica: high and wide, its nave and portico were restored back to their ﬁfth-century appearance in the 1930s. Look especially at the main doors, which boast eighteen panels carved with Christian scenes, forming a complete illustrated Bible that includes one of the oldest representations of the Cruciﬁxion in existence. Santa Sabina is also the principal church of the Dominicans, and it’s claimed that the orange trees in the garden outside, which you can glimpse on your way to the restrained cloister, are descendants of those planted by St Dominic himself. Whatever the truth of this, the views from the gardens are splendid – right across the Tiber to the centre of Rome and St Peter’s. The Baths of Caracalla

Across the far side of Piazza di Porta Capena, the Baths of Caracalla, Viale Terme di Caracalla 52 (Mon 9am–2pm, Tues–Sun 9am to 1hr before sunset; €7.50), are much better preserved and give a far better sense of the scale and monumentality of Roman architecture than most of the extant ruins in the city – so much so that Shelley was moved to write Prometheus Unbound here in 1819. The baths are no more than a shell now, but the walls still rise to very nearly their original height. There are many fragments of mosaics – none spectacular, but quite a few bright and well preserved – and it’s easy to discern a ﬂoor plan. As for Caracalla, he was one of Rome’s worst rulers, and it’s no wonder there’s nothing else in the city built by him. The baths are used as the venue for the Teatro dell’Opera’s summer season – one of Mussolini’s better ideas – and attending an opera performance here allows you to see the baths at their most atmospheric. Testaccio 658

Across the Aventine, on the far side of Via Marmorata, the solid working-class neighbourhood of Testaccio groups around a couple of main squares, a tight-knit community with a market and a number of bars and small trattorias that was for

Via Zabaglia leads from Monte Testaccio to Via Caio Cestio, a left turn up which takes you to the entrance of the Protestant Cemetery (Mon–Sat 9am–5pm, Sun 9am–1pm; donation expected), one of the shrines to the English in Rome and a ﬁtting conclusion to a visit to the Keats-Shelley House (see p.648), since it is here that both poets are buried, along with a handful of other well-known names. In fact, the cemetery’s title is a misnomer – the cemetery is reserved for non-Roman Catholics so you’ll also ﬁnd famous Italian atheists, Christians of the Orthodox persuasion, and the odd Jew or Muslim buried here. Most visitors come here to see the grave of Keats, who lies next to his friend, the painter Joseph Severn, in the furthest corner of the less crowded, older part of the cemetery, his stone inscribed as he wished with the words “Here lies one whose name was writ in water.” Severn died much later than Keats but asked to be laid here nonetheless, together with his brushes and palette. Shelley’s ashes were brought here at Mary Shelley’s request and interred in the newer part of the cemetery. Among other famous internees, Edward Trelawny, friend and literary associate of Byron and Shelley, lies next to him, the political writer and activist, Gramsci, on the far right-hand side in the middle, to name just two – though if you’re at all interested in star-spotting you should ask to have a look at the English booklet at the entrance.

| The City

The Protestant Cemetery

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many years synonymous with the slaughterhouse that sprawls down to the Tiber just beyond. In recent years the area has become trendy, property prices have soared, and some unlikely juxtapositions have emerged, with vegetarian restaurants opening their doors in an area still known for the offal dishes served in its traditional trattorias, and gay and alternative clubs standing cheek-by-jowl with the car-repair shops gouged into Monte Testaccio. The slaughterhouse, or Mattatoio, once the area’s main employer, is used for concerts and exhibitions now, along with stabling for the city’s horse-and-carriage drivers and a branch of the Museum of Contemporary Art of Rome, MACRO Future, where a couple of pavilions stage temporary exhibitions of a radical and adventurous nature. Opposite, Monte Testaccio gives the area its name, a 35-metrehigh mound created out of the shards of Roman amphorae that were dumped here. It’s an odd sight, the ceramic curls visible through the tufts of grass that crown its higher reaches, with bars and restaurants hollowed out of the slopes below.

The Pyramid of Caius Cestius

The most distinctive landmark in this part of town is the mossy pyramidal tomb of one Caius Cestius, who died in 12 BC. Cestius had spent some time in Egypt, and part of his will decreed that all his slaves should be freed – the white pyramid you see today was thrown up by them in only 330 days of what must have been joyful building. It’s open to the public on the second and fourth Saturday of each month, though you can visit the cats who live here, and the volunteers who care for them, any afternoon between 2.30 and 4.30pm. Centrale Montemartini

It’s a ten-minute walk south down Via Ostiense to the Centrale Montemartini at Via Ostiense 106 (Tues–Sun 9am–7pm; €4.50, €8.50 for Capitoline Museums as well, valid 7 days), a former electricity generating station which was requisitioned to display the cream of the Capitoline Museums’ sculpture while the main buildings were being renovated. It became so popular that it’s now a permanent outpost, attracting visitors to the formerly industrial area of Ostiense. The huge rooms of the power station are ideally suited to showing ancient sculpture, although the massive

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turbines and furnaces have a fascination of their own, and more than compete for your attention. Among many compelling objects are the head, feet and an arm from a colossal statue, once 8m high, found in Largo Argentina; a large Roman copy of Athena; a fragmented mosaic of hunting scenes; and an amazingly naturalistic statue of a girl seated on a stool with her legs crossed, from the third century BC. There’s also a ﬁgure of Hercules and, next to it, the soft Muse Polymnia, the former braced for activity, the latter leaning on a rock and staring thoughtfully into the distance. San Paolo fuori le Mura

| The City

Some 2km south of the Porta San Paolo, the basilica of San Paolo fuori le Mura (daily: summer 7am–6.30pm; winter 7am–6pm), accessible on metro line B, is one of the four patriarchal basilicas of Rome, occupying the supposed site of St Paul’s tomb, where he was laid to rest after being beheaded nearby. Of the four, this basilica has probably fared the least well over the years, and a devastating ﬁre in 1823 means that the church you see now is largely a nineteenth-century reconstruction. For all that, it’s a very successful rehash of the former church, and it’s impossible not to be awed by the space of the building inside. Some parts of the building did survive the ﬁre. In the south transept, the paschal candlestick is a remarkable piece of Romanesque carving, supported by half-human beasts and rising through entwined tendrils and strangely human limbs and bodies to scenes from Christ’s life. The bronze aisle doors date from 1070 and were also rescued from the old basilica, as was the thirteenth-century tabernacle by Arnolfo di Cambio. The arch across the apse is original, too, embellished with mosaics donated by the Byzantine queen Galla Placidia in the sixth century. There’s also the cloister, just behind here – probably Rome’s ﬁnest piece of Cosmatesque work, its spiralling, mosaic-encrusted columns enclosing a peaceful rose garden. Via Appia Antica and the catacombs

Starting at the Porta San Sebastiano, the Via Appia Antica (or Appian Way) is the most famous of Rome’s consular roads that used to strike out in every direction from the ancient city. It was built by one Appio Claudio in 312 BC, and is the only Roman landmark mentioned in the Bible. During classical times it was the most important of all the Roman trade routes, carrying supplies through Campania to the port of Bríndisi, and it remains an important part of early Christian Rome, its verges lined with numerous pagan and Christian sites, including most famously the underground burial cemeteries or catacombs of the ﬁrst Christians. The best way to get to Via Appia Antica is by bus – take #118 from Piazzale Ostiense, #218 from Piazza Porta San Giovanni or #660 from Colli Albani metro station (on line A). Alternatively, take the private Archeobus service (see p.626). About 500m from Porta San Sebastiano, where the road forks, the church of Domine Quo Vadis is the ﬁrst obvious sight on Via Appia. Legend has it this is where St Peter had a vision of Christ ﬂeeing from Rome and asked “Where goest thou, Lord?” (Domine quo vadis?), to which Christ replied that he was going to be cruciﬁed once more, leading Peter to turn around and accept his fate. The small church is ordinary enough inside, except for its replica of a piece of marble that is said to be marked with the footprints of Christ (the original is in the church of San Sebastiano; see opposite). The catacombs 660

Continuing on for 1km or so, the Catacombs of San Callisto (Thurs–Tues 9am– noon & 2–5pm; €5) are the largest of Rome’s catacombs, founded in the second century AD; many of the early popes (of whom St Callisto was one) are buried here. The site also features some well-preserved seventh- and eighth-century

Trastevere and the Janiculum Hill

| The City

Across the river from the centre of town, on the right bank of the Tiber, the district of Trastevere was the artisan area of the city in classical times, neatly placed for the trade that came upriver from Ostia to be unloaded nearby. Outside the city walls, Trastevere (the name means “across the Tiber”) was for centuries heavily populated by immigrants, and this separation lent the neighbourhood a strong identity that lasted well into the twentieth century. Nowadays it’s a long way from the working-class quarter it used to be, often thronged with tourists, lured by the charm of its narrow streets and closeted squares. However, it is among the most pleasant places to stroll in Rome, particularly peaceful in the morning, lively come the evening, as dozens of trattorias set tables out along the cobbled streets, and still buzzing late at night when its bars and clubs provide a focus for one of Rome’s most dynamic night-time scenes.

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frescoes, and the crypt of Santa Cecilia, who was buried here after her martyrdom, before being shifted to the church dedicated to her in Trastevere. The Catacombs of San Sebastiano, 500m further on (Mon–Sat 8.30am– noon & 2.30–5pm; €5), are situated under a basilica that was originally built by Constantine on the spot where the bodies of the apostles Peter and Paul are said to have been laid for a time. Tours take in paintings of doves and ﬁsh, a contemporary carved oil lamp and inscriptions dating the tombs themselves. The most striking features, however, are not Christian at all, but three pagan tombs (one painted, two stuccoed) discovered when archeologists were burrowing beneath the ﬂoor of the basilica upstairs.

Santa Cecilia in Trastevere

One of Trastevere’s most intriguing attractions is the church of Santa Cecilia in Trastevere (daily 9.30am–1pm & 4–6.30pm), whose antiseptic eighteenth-century appearance belies its historical associations. A church was originally built here over the site of the second-century home of St Cecilia, whose husband Valerian was executed for refusing to worship Roman gods and who herself was subsequently persecuted for Christian beliefs. The story has it that Cecilia was locked in the caldarium of her own baths for several days but refused to die, singing her way through the ordeal (Cecilia is patron saint of music). Her head was ﬁnally half hacked off with an axe, though it took several blows before she ﬁnally succumbed. Below the high altar, Stefano Maderno’s limp statue of the saint shows her incorruptible body as it was found when exhumed in 1599, with three deep cuts in her neck. Downstairs, excavations of the baths and the rest of the Roman house are on view in the crypt, but more alluring by far is the singing gallery above the nave (Mon–Sat 10.15am–12.15pm, Sun 11.15am–12.15pm; €2.50; ring the bell to the left of the church door to get in), where Pietro Cavallini’s late thirteenth-century fresco of the Last Judgement – all that remains of the decoration that once covered the entire church – is a powerful, amazingly naturalistic piece of work for its time.

Porta Portese flea market Trastevere at its most disreputable but also most characteristic can be witnessed on Sunday, when the Porta Portese ﬂea market stretches down from the Porta Portese gate down Via Portuense to Trastevere train station in a congested medley of antiques, old motor spares, cheap clothing, household goods, bric-a-brac, antiques and assorted junk. It starts around 7am, and you should come early if you want to buy, or even move – most of the bargains, not to mention the stolen goods, have gone by 10am, by which time the crush of people can be intense. It’s pretty much all over by lunchtime.

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Santa Maria in Trastevere

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The heart of Trastevere is Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere, a large square that takes its name from the church of Santa Maria in Trastevere in its northwest corner (daily 7am–9pm). This is thought to have been the ﬁrst Christian place of worship in Rome, built on a site where a fountain of oil is said to have sprung on the day of Christ’s birth, and the church’s mosaics are among the city’s most impressive, Byzantine-inspired works in the apse depicting a solemn yet sensitive parade of saints thronged around Christ and Mary, while underneath a series of panels shows scenes from the life of the Virgin by the painter Pietro Cavallini. Beneath the high altar on the right, an inscription – “FONS OLEI” – marks the spot where the oil is supposed to have sprung up.

| The City

Galleria Nazionale di Palazzo Corsini

Cutting north through the backstreets towards the Tiber, you’ll come to the Galleria Nazionale d’Arte di Palazzo Corsini at Via della Lungara 10 (Tues–Sun 8.30am– 7.30pm; €4), an unexpected cultural attraction on this side of the river. It’s a relatively small collection, and only takes up a few rooms of the giant palace, which was a ﬁtting ﬁnal home for Queen Christina of Sweden, who renounced Protestantism and with it the Swedish throne in 1655, bringing her library and fortune to Rome, to the delight of the Chigi pope, Alexander VII. Among the highlights are works by Rubens, Van Dyck, Guido Reni and Caravaggio, and the curious Corsini Throne, thought to be a Roman copy of an Etruscan throne of the second or ﬁrst century. Cut out of marble, its back is carved with warriors in armour and helmets, below which is a boar hunt, with wild boars the size of horses pursued by hunters. Villa Farnesina

Across the road from the Palazzo Corsini is the Villa Farnesina (Mon–Sat & 1st Sun of the month 9am–1pm; €5), built during the early sixteenth century for the banker Agostino Chigi, and one of the earliest Renaissance villas, with opulent rooms decorated with frescoes by some of the masters of the period. Most people come to view the Raphael-designed painting Cupid and Psyche in the now glassed-in loggia, completed in 1517 by the artist’s assistants. The painter and art historian Vasari claims Raphael didn’t complete the work because his infatuation with his mistress – “La Fornarina”, whose father’s bakery was situated nearby – was making it difficult to concentrate. Nonetheless it’s mightily impressive: a ﬂowing, animated work bursting with muscular men and bare-bosomed women. He did, however, apparently manage to ﬁnish the Galatea in the room next door, whose bucolic country scenes are interspersed with Galatea on her scallop-shell chariot and a giant head once said to have been painted by Michelangelo in one of the lunettes. The ceiling illustrates Chigi’s horoscope constellations, frescoed by the architect of the building, Peruzzi, who also decorated the upstairs Salone delle Prospettive, where trompe l’oeil balconies give views onto contemporary Rome – one of the earliest examples of the technique. The Janiculum Hill

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It’s about a ﬁfteen-minute walk up Via Garibaldi from the centre of Trastevere to the summit of the Janiculum Hill – not one of the original seven hills of Rome, but the one with the best and most accessible views of the centre. Follow Vicolo del Cedro from Via della Scala and take the steps up from the end, cross the main road, and continue on the steps that lead up the hill to the Passeggiata del Gianicolo and then to Piazzale Garibaldi. Just below here is the spot from which a cannon is ﬁred at noon each day for Romans to check their watches, and spread out before you are some of the best views in Rome, taking in pretty much the whole of the city.

Villa Borghese and north

Galleria Borghese

| The City

On the far eastern edge of the Villa Borghese park, the wonderful Galleria Borghese (Tues–Sun 8.30am–7.30pm; €10.50; pre-booked visits obligatory at least a day in advance on T 06.32.810 or W www.ticketeria.it) was built in the early seventeenth century by Cardinal Scipione Borghese, and turned over to the state in 1902. Today it’s one of Rome’s great treasure-houses of art and should not be missed.

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Immediately above Piazza del Popolo, the Pincio Gardens were laid out by Valadier in the early nineteenth century, and, fringed with dilapidated busts of classical and Italian heroes, give ﬁne views over the roofs, domes and TV antennae of central Rome, right across to St Peter’s and the Janiculum Hill. It’s also a good place to rent bikes and and trikes to tour Rome’s largest central open space, the Villa Borghese, which lies just beyond, and whose woods, lakes and lawns offer respite from the bustle of the city centre, and any number of attractions – including some of the city’s ﬁnest museums – for those who want to do more than just stroll or sunbathe.

The ground ﬂoor

The ground ﬂoor contains mainly sculpture: a mixture of ancient Roman items and seventeenth-century works, roughly linked together with late eighteenthcentury ceiling paintings showing scenes from the Trojan War. Highlights include, in the ﬁrst room off the entrance hall, Canova’s famously erotic statue Paolina Borghese – sister of Napoleon and married (reluctantly) to the reigning Prince Borghese – posed as Venus. Next door, there’s a marvellous statue of David by Bernini, the face of which is a self-portrait of the sculptor, and, further on, a dramatic, poised statue of Apollo and Daphne that captures the split second when Daphne is transformed into a laurel tree, with her ﬁngers becoming leaves and her legs tree-trunks. Next door, the Room of the Emperors has another Bernini sculpture, The Rape of Persephone, dating from 1622, a coolly virtuosic work that shows in melodramatic form the story of the abduction to the underworld of the beautiful nymph Persephone. Finally, the so-called Room of Silenus contains a variety of paintings by Cardinal Scipione’s protege Caravaggio, notably the Madonna of the Grooms from 1605, a painting that at the time was considered to have depicted Christ far too realistically to hang in a central Rome church. Look also at St Jerome, captured writing at a table lit only by a source of light that streams in from the upper left of the picture, and his David holding the head of Goliath, sent by Caravaggio to Cardinal Scipione from exile in Malta, where he had ﬂed to escape capital punishment for various crimes, and perhaps the last painting he ever did. The ﬁrst ﬂoor

The upstairs gallery is one of the richest small collections of paintings in the world. In the ﬁrst room are several important paintings by Raphael, including his Deposition, painted in 1507 for a noble of Perugia in memory of her son. Look out also for Lady with a Unicorn and Portrait of a Man by Perugino, and a copy of the artist’s tired-out Julius II, painted in the last year of the pope’s life, 1513. In further rooms there are more early sixteenth-century paintings; prominent works include Cranach’s Venus and Cupid with a Honeycomb, Lorenzo Lotto’s touching Portrait of a Man, and in the opposite direction a series of self-portraits by Bernini at various stages of his long life. Next to these are a lifelike bust of Cardinal Scipione executed by Bernini in 1632, and a smaller bust of Pope Paul V, also by Bernini. Beyond here, in a further room, is a painting of Diana by Domechino, depicting the goddess and her attendants doing a bit of target practice, and Titian’s Sacred and Profane Love, painted in 1514 when he was about 25 years old, to celebrate the marriage of the Venetian noble Niccolò Aurelio.

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Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna

ROME AND L AZ I O

| The City

The Villa Borghese’s two other major museums are situated on the other side of the park, about 1km away along the Viale delle Belle Arti, and of these, the Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna, at no. 131 (Tues–Sun 8.30am–7.30pm; €9), is probably the least compulsory – a lumbering, Neoclassical building housing a collection of nineteenth- and twentieth-century Italian paintings and a few foreign artists. The nineteenth-century collection, on the lower ﬂoor, mostly contains the work of the Macchiaioli School of Tuscan impressionists, as well as paintings by Courbet, Cézanne and Van Gogh, while the twentieth-century collection upstairs includes work by Modigliani, De Chirico, Giacomo Balla, Boccioni and the Futurists, along with the odd Mondrian and Klimt; there are also some postwar canvases by the likes of Mark Rothko, Jackson Pollock and Cy Twombly, who has lived in Rome for much of his life. Museo Nazionale Etrusco di Villa Giulia

A harmonious collection of courtyards, loggias, gardens and temples put together in a playful Mannerist style for Pope Julius III in the mid-sixteenth century, the Villa Giulia now houses the Museo Nazionale Etrusco di Villa Giulia (Tues– Sun 8.30am–7.30pm; €4), the world’s primary collection of Etruscan treasures (along with the Etruscan collection in the Vatican). Not much is known about the Etruscans, but they were a creative and civilized people, evidenced here by a wealth of sensual sculpture, jewellery and art. The most famous exhibit, in the octagonal room in the east wing, is the remarkable Sarcophagus of the Married Couple (dating from the sixth century BC) from Cerveteri – a touchingly lifelike portrayal of a husband and wife lying on a couch. Look also at the delicate and beautiful cistae, drum-like objects, engraved and adorned with ﬁgures, which were supposed to hold all the things needed for the care of the body after death. In the same room are marvellously intricate pieces of gold jewellery, delicately worked into tiny horses, birds, camels and other animals, as well as mirrors, candelabra, religious statues and tools used in everyday life, including a realistic bronze statuette of a ploughman at work. Further on you’ll ﬁnd a drinking horn in the shape of a dog’s head that is so lifelike you almost expect it to bark; a holmos, or small table, to which the maker attached 24 little pendants around the edge; and a bronze disc breastplate from the seventh century BC decorated with a weird, almost modern abstract pattern of galloping creatures. MAXXI

A ten-minute tram journey north of Piazza del Popolo, MAXXI, at Via Guido Reni 4/A (Tues–Sun 11am–7pm, Thurs until 10pm; €11; W www.maxxi.beniculturali. it), opened to much fanfare in 2010 in a landmark building by the Anglo-Iraqi architect Zaha Hadid – a great modern accompaniment to Renzo Piano’s nearby Auditorium complex (see below). Built around a former military barracks, it’s primarily a venue for temporary exhibitions of contemporary art and architecture (though it does have small collections of its own), but the building, a simultaneously jagged and curvy affair, is worth a visit in its own right, with its long, unravelling galleries and a towering lobby encompassing the inevitable café and bookstore. The Auditorium

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Five minutes’ walk from MAXXI (or take bus #M from Termini), Rome’s Auditorium (daily 10am–6pm; free; T 06.80.242, W www.auditorium.com) is a complex of three concert halls, designed by everyone’s favourite Italian architect, Renzo Piano. Each concert hall is conceived and designed for a different kind of musical performance: the smallest, the Sala Petrassi on the right side, accommodates 700

The Vatican

| The City

Situated on the west bank of the Tiber, just across from the city centre, the Vatican City was established as a sovereign state in 1929, a tiny territory surrounded by high walls on its far western side and on the near side opening its doors to the rest of the city and its pilgrims in the form of St Peter’s and its colonnaded piazza. The city-state’s one thousand inhabitants have their own radio station, daily newspaper, postal service, and indeed security service in the colourfully dressed Swiss Guards. It’s believed that St Peter was buried in a pagan cemetery on the Vatican hill, giving rise to the building of a basilica to venerate his name and the siting of the headquarters of the Catholic Church here. St Peter’s is obviously one of the highlights, but the only part of the Vatican Palace itself that you can visit independently is the Vatican Museums – quite simply, the largest, richest, most compelling and perhaps most exhausting museum complex in the world.

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people and is designed for chamber concerts, the middle Sala Sinopoli holds 1200, while the largest of the three, the eastern Sala Santa Cecilia, can seat 2700 listening to big symphonic works, and is home to Rome’s ﬂagship Orchestra dell’Accademia di Santa Cecilia. You can walk right round the building outside, exploring the Parco della Musica, as it’s known. The main entrance is on Via Pietro de Coubertin, where there’s a great book and CD shop and decent café, or you can cut through to the complex from Viale Maresciallo Pilsudski, where there’s a children’s playground.

Castel Sant’Angelo

The great circular hulk of the Castel Sant’Angelo (Tues–Sun 9am–6.30pm; €8.50) marks the edge of the Vatican, designed and built by Hadrian as his own mausoleum. Renamed in the sixth century, when Pope Gregory the Great witnessed a vision of St Michael here that ended a terrible plague, the papal authorities converted the building for use as a fortress and built a passageway to link it with the Vatican as a refuge in times of siege or invasion. Inside, a spiral ramp leads up into the centre of the mausoleum, over a drawbridge, to the main level at the top, where a small palace was built to house the papal residents in appropriate splendour. Pope Paul III had some especially ﬁne renovations made, including the beautiful Sala Paolina, whose gilded ceiling displays the Farnese family arms. You’ll also notice Paul III’s personal motto, Festina Lenta (“make haste slowly”), scattered throughout the ceilings and in various corners of all his rooms. Elsewhere, the rooms hold swords, armour, guns and the like, while others are lavishly decorated with grotesques and paintings (don’t miss the bathroom of Clement VII on the second ﬂoor, with its prototype hot and cold water taps and mildly erotic frescoes). Below are dungeons and storerooms that can be glimpsed from the spiralling ramp, testament to the castle’s grisly past as the city’s most notorious Renaissance prison. The quiet café upstairs offers one of the best views of Rome and excellent coffee. Piazza San Pietro

Perhaps the most famous of Rome’s many piazzas, Bernini’s Piazza San Pietro doesn’t disappoint, although its size isn’t really apparent until you’re right on top of it, its colonnade arms symbolically welcoming the world into the lap of the Catholic Church. The obelisk in the centre was brought to Rome by Caligula in 36 AD, and was moved here in 1586, when Sixtus V ordered that it be erected in front of the basilica, a task that took four months and was apparently done in silence, on pain of death. The matching fountains on either side are the work of Carlo Maderno (on the right) and Bernini (on the left). In between the obelisk and each fountain, a circular

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stone set into the pavement marks the focal points of an ellipse, from which the four rows of columns on the perimeter of the piazza line up perfectly, making the colonnade appear to be supported by a single line of columns. St Peter’s ROME AND L AZ I O

| The City

The Basilica di San Pietro, better known to many as St Peter’s (daily: April–Sept 7am–7pm; Oct–March 7am–6pm), is the principal shrine of the Catholic Church, built on the site of St Peter’s tomb, and worked on by the greatest Italian architects of the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries. One of the channels on the right side of the piazza funnels you into the basilica (the other two lead to the underground grottoes or the ascent to the dome – see below). Bear in mind that whichever you opt for ﬁrst, you need to be properly dressed to enter, which means no bare knees or shoulders – a rule that is very strictly enforced. The interior

Going straight into the church, the ﬁrst thing you see is Michelangelo’s graceful Pietà on the right, completed when he was just 24. Following an attack by a vandal, it sits behind glass, strangely remote from the life of the rest of the building. Further into the church, the dome is breathtakingly imposing, rising high above the supposed site of St Peter’s tomb. With a diameter of 41.5 metres it is Rome’s largest dome, supported by four enormous piers, decorated with reliefs depicting the basilica’s “major relics”: St Veronica’s handkerchief, which was used to wipe the face of Christ; the lance of St Longinus, which pierced Christ’s side; and a piece of the True Cross. On the right side of the nave, the bronze statue of St Peter is another of the most venerated monuments in the basilica, its right foot polished smooth by the attentions of pilgrims. Bronze was also the material used in Bernini’s wild spiralling baldacchino, a massive 26m high, cast out of 927 tonnes of metal removed from the Pantheon roof in 1633. Bernini’s feverish sculpting decorates the apse, too, his bronze Cattedra enclosing the chair of St Peter, though more interesting is his monument to Alexander VII in the south transept, with its winged skeleton struggling underneath the heavy marble drapes, upon which the Chigi pope is kneeling in prayer. The treasury and grottoes

An entrance off the aisle leads to the treasury (daily: summer 8am–6pm; winter 7am–5pm; €6), which has among many riches the late ﬁfteenth-century bronze tomb of Pope Sixtus IV by Pollaiuolo. The grottoes (daily: summer 9am–6pm; winter 9am–5pm), which you can opt to visit ﬁrst outside, emerging in the basilica at the central crossing, is where a good number of popes are buried, including the last one, John Paul II. The roof and dome

Also accessible by one of three main outside entrances, the ascent to the roof and dome (daily: May–Sept 8am–6pm; Oct–April 8am–5pm; €7 with lift, €4 using the stairs) is well worth making. The views from the gallery around the interior of the dome give you a sense of the enormity of the church, and from there you can make the (challenging) ascent to the lantern at the top of the dome, from which the views over the city are as glorious as you’d expect. The Vatican Museums 666

However much you may have enjoyed Rome’s other museums, nothing else in the city quite measures up to the Vatican Museums, on Viale Vaticano, a ﬁfteenminute walk from St Peter’s out of the north side of Piazza San Pietro (Mon–Sat

The Vatican Museums: planning a visit

| The City

9am–6pm, last entrance at 4pm; last Sun of each month 9am–2pm, last entrance at 12.30pm; closed public and religious holidays; €15, €8 under-18s and under-26s with student ID, €4 extra for all tickets pre-booked online, last Sun of the month free; audioguides €6; W www.vatican.va). So much booty from the city’s history has ended up here, from both classical and later times, and so many of the Renaissance’s ﬁnest artists were in the employ of the pope, that not surprisingly the result is a set of museums stuffed with enough exhibits to put most other European collections to shame.

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As its name suggests, the complex actually holds a series of museums on very diverse subjects – displays of classical statuary, Renaissance painting, Etruscan relics, Egyptian artefacts, not to mention the furnishings and decoration of the building itself. There’s no point in trying to see everything, at least not on one visit, and the only features you really shouldn’t miss are the Raphael Rooms and the Sistine Chapel. Above all, decide how long you want to spend here, and what you want to see, before you start; you could spend anything from an hour to a whole day here, and it’s easy to collapse from museum fatigue before you’ve even got to your most important target of interest. Also, bear in mind that the collections are in a constant state of restoration, and are often closed and shifted around with little or no notice – so check Wwww .vatican.va for the current situation.

Museo Pio-Clementino

To the left of the entrance, the Museo Pio-Clementino is home to some of the best of the Vatican’s classical statuary, including two statues that inﬂuenced Renaissance artists more than any others, the serene Apollo Belvedere, a Roman copy of a fourth-century-BC original, and the ﬁrst-century-BC Laocoön, which shows a Trojan priest being crushed by serpents for warning of the danger of the Trojan horse – perhaps the most famous classical statue ever. There are also busts and statues of the Roman emperors, fantastic Roman ﬂoor mosaics, and the so-called Venus of Cnidos, the ﬁrst known representation of the goddess. Museo Gregoriano Egizio

The Museo Gregoriano Egizio isn’t one of the Vatican’s main highlights, but it has a distinguished collection of ancient Egyptian artefacts, including some vividly painted mummy cases (and two mummies), along with canopi, the alabaster vessels into which the entrails of the deceased were placed. There’s also a partial reconstruction of the Temple of Serapis from Hadrian’s Villa near Tivoli, along with another statue of his lover, Antinous, who drowned close to the original temple in Egypt and so inspired Hadrian to build his replica. Museo Gregoriano Etrusco

The Museo Gregoriano Etrusco holds sculpture, funerary art and applied art from the sites of southern Etruria – a good complement to Rome’s specialist Etruscan collection in the Villa Giulia. Especially worth seeing are the ﬁnds from the Regolini-Galassi tomb, from the seventh century BC, discovered near Cerveteri, which contained the remains of three Etruscan nobles, two men and a woman; the breastplate of the woman and her huge ﬁbia (clasp) are of gold. There’s also armour, a bronze bedstead, a funeral chariot and a wagon, as well as a great number of enormous storage jars, in which food, oil and wine were stored for use in the afterlife.

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Galleria dei Candelabri and Galleria degli Arazzi

Outside the Etruscan Museum, a large monumental staircase leads back down to the Galleria dei Candelabri, the niches of which are adorned with huge candelabra taken from imperial Roman villas, and the Galleria degli Arazzi (Gallery of Tapestries), with Belgian tapestries to designs by the school of Raphael. ROME AND L AZ I O

Galleria delle Carte Geograﬁche

Next, the Galleria delle Carte Geograﬁche (Gallery of Maps), which is as long as the previous two galleries put together, was decorated in the late sixteenth century at the behest of Pope Gregory XIII to show all of Italy, the major islands in the Mediterranean and the papal possessions in France, as well as large-scale maps of the maritime republics of Venice and Genoa.

| The City

The Raphael Rooms

The Raphael Rooms formed the private apartments of Pope Julius II, and when he moved in here he commissioned Raphael to redecorate them in a style more in tune with the times. Raphael died in 1520 before the scheme was complete, but the two rooms that were painted by him, as well as others completed by pupils, stand as one of the highlights of the Renaissance. The Stanza di Eliodoro, the ﬁrst room you come to, was painted by three of Raphael’s students ﬁve years after his death, and is best known for its painting the Mass of Bolsena which relates a miracle that occurred in the town in northern Lazio in the 1260s, and, on the window wall opposite, the Deliverance of St Peter, showing the saint being assisted in a jail-break by the Angel of the Lord. The other main room, the Stanza della Segnatura or Pope’s Study, was painted in the years 1508–11, when Raphael ﬁrst came to Rome, and comes close to the peak of the painter’s art. The School of Athens, on the near wall as you come in, steals the show, a representation of the triumph of scientiﬁc truth in which all the great minds from antiquity are represented. It pairs with the Disputation of the Sacrament opposite, which is a reassertion of religious dogma – an allegorical mass of popes, cardinals, bishops, doctors and even the poet Dante. The Appartamento Borgia

Outside the Raphael Rooms, the Appartamento Borgia was inhabited by Julius II’s hated predecessor, Alexander VI, and is nowadays host to a large collection of modern religious art, although its ceiling frescoes, the work of Pinturicchio in the years 1492–95, are really the main reason to visit. The Sistine Chapel

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Steps lead from the Raphael Rooms to the Sistine Chapel, a huge barn-like structure that serves as the pope’s official private chapel and the scene of the conclaves of cardinals for the election of each new pontiff. The ceiling frescoes here, and painting of the Last Judgement on the altar wall, are probably the most viewed paintings in the world: it’s estimated that on an average day about 15,000 people trudge through here to take a look. It’s useful to carry a pair of binoculars with you to view the ceiling, but bear in mind that photography is strictly prohibited and it’s also officially forbidden to speak – a rule that is rampantly ignored. The walls of the chapel were decorated by several prominent painters of the Renaissance – Pinturicchio, Perugino, Botticelli and Ghirlandaio. Recently restored, they would be a massive highlight anywhere else. As it is, they are entirely overshadowed by Michelangelo’s more famous ceiling frescoes, commissioned by Pope Julius II in 1508. They depict scenes from the Old Testament, from the Creation of Light at the altar end to the Drunkenness of Noah over the door. Entering from behind the altar, you are supposed, as you look up, to imagine that you are looking into

ROME AND L AZ I O

| The City

heaven through the arches of the ﬁctive architecture that springs from the sides of the chapel, supported by little putti caryatids and ignudi or nudes. Look at the pagan sibyls and biblical prophets which Michelangelo also incorporated in his scheme – some of the most dramatic ﬁgures in the entire work, and all clearly labelled by the painter, from the sensitive ﬁgure of the Delphic Sybil, to the hag-like Cumaean Sybil. Look out, too, for the ﬁgure of the prophet Jeremiah – a brooding self-portrait of an exhausted-looking Michelangelo. The Last Judgement, on the altar wall of the chapel, was painted by the artist more than twenty years later. Michelangelo wasn’t especially keen to work on this either, but Pope Paul III, an old acquaintance, was eager to complete the decoration of the chapel. The painting took ﬁve years, again single-handed, and is probably the most inspired and homogeneous large-scale painting you’re ever likely to see, the technical virtuosity of Michelangelo taking a back seat to the sheer exuberance of the work. The centre is occupied by Christ, turning angrily as he gestures the condemned to the underworld. St Peter, carrying his gold and silver keys, looks on in astonishment, while Mary averts her eyes from the scene. Below Christ a group of angels blast their trumpets to summon the dead from their sleep. On the left, the dead awaken from graves, tombs and sarcophagi and are levitating into the heavens or being pulled by ropes and the napes of their necks by angels who take them before Christ. At the bottom right, Charon, keeper of the underworld, swings his oar at the damned souls as they fall off the boat into the waiting gates of hell. The Braccio Nuovo and Museo Chiaramonti

The Braccio Nuovo and Museo Chiaramonti both hold classical sculpture, although be warned that they are the Vatican at its most overwhelming – close on a thousand statues crammed into two long galleries. The Braccio Nuovo was built in the early 1800s to display classical statuary that was particularly prized, and it contains, among other things, probably the most famous extant image of Augustus, and a bizarre-looking statue depicting the Nile, whose yearly ﬂooding was essential to the fertility of the Egyptian soil. The 300-metre-long Chiaramonti gallery is especially unnerving, lined as it is with the chill marble busts of hundreds of nameless, blankeyed ancient Romans, along with the odd deity. It pays to have a leisurely wander, for there are some real characters here: sour, thin-lipped matrons; kids, caught in a sulk or mid-chortle; and ancient old men with ﬂesh sagging and wrinkling. The Pinacoteca

The Pinacoteca is housed in a separate building on the far side of the Vatican Museums’ main spine and ranks highly among Rome’s picture galleries, with works from the early to High Renaissance right up to the nineteenth century. Among early works is the stunning Simoneschi triptych by Giotto, the Martyrdom of Sts Peter and Paul, painted in the early 1300s for the old St Peter’s, works by Masolino, Fra’ Angelico and Fra’ Filippo Lippi, and Melozzo da Forlì’s musical angels – fragments of a fresco commissioned for the church of Santi Apostoli. Further on are the rich backdrops and elegantly clad ﬁgures of the Umbrian School painters, Perugino and Pinturicchio. Raphael has a room to himself, where you’ll ﬁnd his Transﬁguration, which he had nearly completed when he died in 1520, the Coronation of the Virgin, painted when he was only 19 years old, and, on the left, the Madonna of Foglino, showing Sts John the Baptist, Francis of Assisi and Jerome. Leonardo’s St Jerome, in the next room, is a remarkable piece of work with the saint a rake-like ascetic torn between suffering and a good meal, while Caravaggio’s Descent from the Cross, in the next room but one, is a warts-and-all canvas that unusually shows the Virgin Mary as a middle-aged mother grieving over her dead son. Take a look also at the most gruesome painting in the collection, Poussin’s Martyrdom of St Erasmus, which shows the saint stretched out on a

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table with his hands bound above his head in the process of having his small intestine wound onto a drum – basically being “drawn” prior to “quartering”. The musei Gregoriano Profano, Pio Cristiano and Missionario Etnologico ROME AND L AZ I O

Next door to the Pinacoteca, the Museo Gregoriano Profano holds more classical sculpture, mounted on scaffolds for all-round viewing, and the adjacent Museo Pio Cristiano has intricate, early Christian sarcophagi. Below these, the Museo Missionario Etnologico displays art and artefacts from the Far East, collected by Catholic missionaries.

| Eating and drinking

Eating and drinking Rome is a great place to eat: its denizens know a good deal about freshness and authenticity, and can be very demanding when it comes to the quality of the dishes they are served. Most city-centre restaurants offer standard Italian menus, with the emphasis on traditional Roman dishes, although a few more adventurous places have been popping up of late; plus there are numerous establishments dedicated to a variety of regional cuisines. The city is also blessed with an abundance of good pizzerias, churning out thin, crispy-baked Roman pizza from wood-ﬁred ovens. The eating and drinking listings below are marked on the maps on pp.628–629, p.633 and p.635.

Coffee and snacks Rome has plenty of places in which to refuel during a long day’s sightseeing, and it’s easy to ﬁnd places that aren’t just targeted at tourists. Most bars sell panini and sandwiches (tramezzini), and there are plenty of stand-up rosticerrie for roast chicken and the like. The following are some of our favourite places for a good-quality, unpretentious lunch or snack. Centro storico La Caffeteria Piazza di Pietra 65. Great Neapolitan café that imports its pastries daily from Naples. The coffee is among Rome’s best. Daily 7.30am–10pm. Lo Zozzone Via del Teatro Pace 32. This Rome legend, just around the corner from Piazza Navona and with outside seating, serves the best pizza bianca in town, by general consent – as well as lots of delicious pizza al taglio choices. Moln–Fri 9am–9pm, Sat 10am–11pm. Sant’Eustachio Piazza Sant’Eustachio 82. The home of what many consider to be Rome’s best coffee, roasted on the premises and perennially popular. Nice coffee-based sweets and cakes too. Daily 8am–1am.

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Bernasconi Piazza Cairoli 16. Great, long-established pasticceria and café with sfogiatelle (ﬂaky, custard-ﬁlled pastries) to die for, as well as a host of other goodies. Tues–Sun 7am–8.30pm.

Il Forno di Campo de’ Fiori Campo de’ Fiori 22. This bakery on the corner of Campo de’ Fiori does all sorts of goodies, including fantastic pizza al taglio. Mon–Sat 7.30am–2.30pm & 4.30–8pm.

The Tridente Ciampini Viale Trinità dei Monti. Across the road from the French Academy, this is a café, good for coffee and snacks in the morning and at lunchtime, but a restaurant too, with a great setting in an enclosed garden overlooking the roofs and domes below. There are pasta dishes and salads for €10–12, as well as ﬁsh, steaks and chicken from the grill. A good place for kids, who can watch the turtles playing in the fountain between courses. Daily 8am–midnight.

The Esquline, Monti and Termini Antico Caffé di Brasile Via dei Serpenti 23. Reliable old Monti stand-by that has been selling great coffee, sandwiches, snacks and cakes

Ice cream and fruit shakes Alberto Pica Via della Seggiola 12. Long-running and award-winning Campo de’ Fiori area favourite with lots of unusual ﬂavours. The place to try rice-pudding ice cream if you’ve ever fancied it. Mon–Sat 8.30am–2pm, Sun 4.30pm–2am.

Giolitti Via Ufﬁci del Vicario 40. An Italian institution that once had a reputation – now lost – for the country’s top ice cream. Still pretty good, however, with a choice of seventy ﬂavours. Always very busy. Tues–Sun 7am–2am.

Pascucci Via di Torre Argentina 20. This tiny stand-up centro storico bar is frullati central. Your choice of fresh fruit whipped up with ice and milk – the ultimate Roman refreshment on a hot day. Mon–Fri 6.30am–midnight, Sat 6.30am–12.30am, Sun 10am–midnight. San Crispino Via della Panetteria 42. Not far from the Trevi Fountain, this is considered by many to make the best ice cream in Rome. Other branches in the centro storico at Piazza Maddalena 3, by the Pantheon, and at Via Acaia 56 in San Giovanni. Daily noon–12.30am, Fri & Sat until 1.30am; closed Tues in autumn and winter.

for over a century. Mon–Sat 6am–8.30pm, Sun 7am–7pm. Dagnino Galleria Esedra, Via E.Orlando 75. Good for both a coffee and snack or light lunch, this long-established Sicilian bakery is a peaceful retreat in the Termini area, with tables outside on a small shopping arcade. Daily 7.30am–10.30pm. La Bottega del Caffè Piazza Madonna dei Monti 5. Bang in the heart of Monti, this is a good place for breakfast or a lunchtime snack, with tables outside on this peaceful square. Daily 8am–2am.

| Eating and drinking

Old Bridge Via Bastioni di Michelangelo 5. Generous helpings at this long-standing Vatican area favourite, Famous for its chocolate, coffee and Nutella ﬂavours, but most of all for the size of its portions. Daily 10am–2am.

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Alla Scala Via della Scala 51. This Sicilian-owned Trastevere joint has some of the very best ice cream in town, with unusual ﬂavours such as cinnamon and cassata. The amarena (black cherry) and coconut are also great. Daily 1pm–midnight, until 1am on Sat & Sun.

Takeaway or eat on the premises at its long counter. Daily 7am–10pm. Sisini Via San Francesco a Ripa 137. Holein-the-wall pizzeria that does great slices, as well as roast chicken and potatoes, supplì and all the usual rosticceria fare. Mon–Sat 9am–10.30pm.

Villa Borghese and north Gianfornaio Piazzale Ponte Milvio 35/37. Just across the ancient Ponte Milvio, this is the place for a snack lunch if you’re visiting the Auditorium or MAXXI, with great pizza al taglio and lots of other goodies. Mon–Sat noon–11pm.

Testaccio Volpetti Più Via A. Volta 8. This Testaccio tavola calda is attached to the famous deli of the same name, around the corner at Via Marmorata 47. It serves pizza, chicken, supplì (breaded rice balls) – all the usual classics. Mon–Sat 10.30am–3.30pm & 5.30–9.30pm.

Trastevere La Renella Via del Moro 15. Arguably the best bakery in Rome, right in the heart of Trastevere, with great focaccia and superb pizza al taglio.

The Vatican and Prati Mondo Arancina Via Marcanonio Colonna 38. Great pizza al taglio, but the real treats here are the arancini – deep-fried rice balls – which come in lots of varieties, all delicious and just €2 each. Daily 10am–midnight. Non Solo Pizza Via degli Scipioni 95–97. Great pizza by the slice as well as a host of hot food – supplì, stuffed olives, ﬁori di zucca, potato croquettes and porchetta skewers. Tues–Sun 8.30am–10pm.

Restaurants and pizzerias There are lots of good restaurants in the centro storico, and it’s surprisingly easy to ﬁnd places that are not tourist traps – prices in all but the really swanky

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restaurants remain pretty uniform throughout the city. The area around Via Cavour and Termini is packed with inexpensive places, although some of them are of dubious cleanliness; if you’re not in a hurry, you might do better heading to the nearby student area of San Lorenzo, where you can often eat far better for the same money. South of the centre, the Testaccio neighbourhood is also well endowed with good, inexpensive trattorias, as is Trastevere, across the river, Rome’s traditional restaurant enclave. Centro storico Armando al Pantheon Salita de’ Crescenzi 30 T06.6880.3034. Unpretentious surroundings and hearty food at good prices. Closed Sat dinner & Sun. Cul de Sac Piazza Pasquino 73 T06.6880.1094. Busy, long-running wine bar and restaurant with an excellent wine list, a great city-centre location with outside seating, and decent wine-bar food – cold meats, cheeses, salads, soups and pasta and main courses too. Daily noon–4pm & 7–12.30am. Da Francesco Piazza del Fico 29 T 06.686.4009. Not just delectable pizzas in this full-on pizzeria, but good antipasti, primi and secondi too. The service can be slapdash, but the food is excellent and relatively inexpensive. Mon & Wed–Sun 7pm–1am. Da Tonino Via del Governo Vecchio 18–19 T 06.333.587.0779. Basic but delicious Roman food is the order of the day at this unmarked centro storico favourite. The simple pasta dishes start at €6, while the straccetti (strips of beef with rocket) are a steal at €7. The few tables ﬁll up quickly, so come early or be prepared to queue. No credit cards. Closed Sun. Enoteca Corsi Via del Gesù 87–88 T 06.679.0821. Old-fashioned trattoria and wine shop that serves up what they happen to have cooked that morning. Lunch only, and costing around €7.50 for a main course. Gino Vicolo Rosini 4 T 06.687.3434. Down a small alley by the parliament building, Gino presides over his bustling restaurant with unhurried authority, serving a determinedly trad Roman menu at keen prices – pastas €5–8, mains €9–10. It’s been very much discovered by tourists, but at heart it remains a locals’ joint. Mon–Sat 1–3pm & 8–10.30pm. Maccheroni Piazza delle Coppelle 44 T 06.6830.7895. Spartan yet comfortable restaurant that enjoys a perfect location on this quiet centro storico square. It serves good, basic Italian food at affordable prices. Mon–Sat 12.30–3pm & 8pm–midnight. Trattoria Via Pozzo delle Cornacchie 25 T 06.6830.1247. The inside of this cool upstairs restaurant feels a million miles away from the streets of the centro storico outside, and the food makes a change too – inventive modern

takes on Sicilian classics. Not cheap, but one of the better food experiences of central Rome. Mon–Fri 12.30–3.30pm & 7.30–11.30pm, Sat 7.30–11.30pm. Trattoria Lilli Via di Tor di Nona 23 T06.686.1916. One of the city centre’s best and most untouristed old-style trattorias, with a great selection of classic Roman staples, well prepared and served with gritty Roman directness. Mon–Sat 1–3pm & 8–11pm.

Campo de’ Fiori and the Ghetto Da Sergio Via delle Grotte 27 T06.686.4293. An out-of-the-way, cosy trattoria with a traditional, limited menu and the deeply authentic feel of old Rome. Outdoor seating in summer. Mon–Sat 12.30–3.30pm & 6.30pm–midnight. Dar Filettaro a Santa Barbara Largo dei Librari 88. A ﬁsh-and-chip shop without the chips. Papercovered Formica tables (outdoors in summer), cheap wine, beer and fried cod, a timeless Roman speciality. Mon–Sat 5–10.30pm; closed Aug. Grappolo d’Oro Zampanó Piazza della Cancelleria 80 T06.686.4118. This place has had a bit of a facelift but still remains relatively untouched by the hordes in nearby Campo de’ Fiori, and serves imaginative Roman cuisine in a traditional trattoria atmosphere at moderate prices. Mon & Wed–Sat 12.30–2.30pm & 7.30–11pm, Tues & Sun 7.30–11pm. Osteria ar Galletto Piazza Farnese 102 T06.686.1704. In spite of its location just off one of Rome’s trendiest streets and one of its trendiest piazzas, this place retains the feel of a provincial trattoria, serving good, wholesome Roman food at very decent prices. Mon–Sat 12.15–3pm & 7.15–11pm. Piperno Monte de’ Cenci 9 T06.6880.6629. This stalwart of the Jewish Ghetto is not the cheapest but is perhaps the best place for a real Roman blowout, either in its elegant dining room or on the square outside. A great place to try classics like baccalà, Roman fritti and some of the classic pasta dishes. Tues–Sat 12.45–2.20pm & 7.45–11.20pm, Sun 12.45–2.20pm.

The Tridente and Quirinale

The Esquiline, Monti and Termini Africa Via Gaeta 26 T06.494.1077. Arguably the city’s most interesting (Ethiopian and Eritrean) food, testimony to its signiﬁcant population from the region. No credit cards. Closed Mon. Alle Carrette Via Madonna dei Monti 95 T06.679.2770. This long-standing Monti pizza joint serves great thin and crispy Roman pizzas and deep-fried baccalà, and also does great desserts. It’s cheap too. Daily 8pm–midnight. Enoteca Cavour 313 Via Cavour 313. This lovely old wine bar makes a handy retreat after seeing the ancient sites. Lots of wines and delicious (though not cheap) snacks and salads. Mon–Sat 12.45–2.45pm & 7.30pm–12.30am. Hang Zhou Via di San Martino ai Monti 33 T06.487.2732. Rome isn’t the best place to eat Chinese food but this Monti favourite is a cut above the rest, and cheap too. Daily noon–3pm & 7–midnight. Pommidoro Piazza dei Sanniti 44 T06.445.2692. This long-established family-run trattoria serves great Roman food, with a breezy open veranda in summer and a ﬁreplace in winter. Closed Sun. Tram Tram Via dei Reti 44–46 T06.490.416. In a grungy location but cosy inside, this cool and animated San Lorenzo restaurant serves good Pugliese pasta dishes, ﬁsh and seafood and unusual salads. Tues–Sun noon–3pm & 7.30pm–midnight. Trattoria Monti Via di San Vito 13/A T06.446.6573. Small, family-run restaurant that specializes in the cuisine of the Marche region – which means great pasta, interesting cabbagewrapped starters and mainly meaty secondi. Very much a neighbourhood place, and moderately priced too. Tues–Sun noon–3pm & 7–11pm.

| Eating and drinking

Antica Birreria Peroni Via San Marcello 19 T 06.679.5310. Big, bustling birreria with an excellent menu of moderately priced, simple food that’s meant to soak up lots of beer. Mon–Sat noon–midnight. Beltramme Via della Croce 39. This very old-fashioned ﬁaschetteria (originally it sold only wine, by the ﬁasco or ﬂask) is always packed and fairly pricey, but if you want authentic Roman food, atmosphere and service the way it used to be, this is the place. No credit cards.Daily noon–3pm & 7–11pm. ’Gusto Piazza Augusto Imperatore 9 T 06.322.6273. A slick establishment that’s a restaurant, pizzeria and wine bar rolled into one. Its reasonably priced Mediterranean buffet is good value for lunch at €8 a head. Daily 12.30–3pm & 7.30pm–2am. Il Chianti Via del Lavatore 81–82/A T 06.678.7550. This Tuscan restaurant and wine bar is quite a ﬁnd, with good spreads of cold meats and cheeses, and full meals of pasta, pizza and beef dishes. Closed Sun. Matricianella Via del Leone 4 T 06.683.2100. Handily placed just off Via del Corso, this old favourite serves classic Roman food, either in the bustling main dining-room or on the outdoor terrace. A great city-centre choice. Closed Sun. Osteria della Frezza Via della Frezza 16 T 06.322.6273. Part of the ultra-successful ’Gusto empire (see above), this place is good for snacks such as cheese or salami plates or for full meals (great pasta). Both the food and service are excellent. Daily noon–3.30pm & 7pm–12.30am. Otello alla Concordia Via della Croce 81 T06.678.1454. This place used to be one of Fellini’s favourites – he lived just a few blocks away on Via Margutta – and remains an elegant, yet affordable choice in the heart of Rome. Closed Sun. Palatium Via Frattina 94 T06.6920.2132. Cool and sleek, this wine-bar-cum-restaurant celebrates the produce of the Lazio region and Rome, with a short menu of regional specialities and a long list of Lazio wines. You can settle for just a plate of salami and cheese for €5–7 or

go for mains using rabbit and sausage from the hills outside the city. Very good value. Mon–Sat 11am–11pm. Piccolo Abruzzo Via Sicilia 237 T 06.4282.0176. A ﬁve-minute stroll up unprepossessing Via Sicilia from Via Veneto, this is a great alternative to the glitzy places on the Dolce Vita street, with no menu, just a seemingly endless parade of Abruzzese and other goodies plonked on your table at regular intervals. All for around €35 a head. Daily noon–4pm & 7pm–1.30am. Recafé Piazza Augusto Imperatore 9 T06.6813.4730. The entrance on Via del Corso is a Neapolitan café, while on the square you can enjoy proper Neapolitan pizzas, good pasta and salad dishes and excellent grilled secondi at moderate prices. Neapolitan sweets and fritti too. Daily 12.45pm–1am.

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Roscioli Via dei Giubbonari 21/22 T06.687.5287. Is it a deli, a wine bar, or fully ﬂedged restaurant? Actually it’s all three, and you can either just have a glass of wine and some cheese or go for the full menu, which has great pasta dishes and secondi at lunch and dinner. Nothing is cheap, but the carbonara is great. Mon–Sat 12.30–4pm & 6pm–midnight.

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Charley’s Sauciere Via San Giovanni in Laterano 270 T 06.7049.5666. If the background chansons don’t make you think you’re in France – albeit a mythical one from the 1930s – the menu certainly will, with lots of French classics. Moderate prices – soups and starters €8–10, mains €18 – and it’s just a ﬁve-minute walk from the Colosseum. Mon–Sat 12.30–3pm & 7.30–11pm. Luzzi Via San Giovanni in Laterano 88 T 06.709.6332. Midway between San Giovanni in Laterano and the Colosseum, this bustling restaurant is a good choice amid the tourist joints of the neighbourhood. The food is hearty and simple, there’s outside seating and it’s extremely cheap – secondi go for €6–9. There are pizzas, too, but only at dinner. Closed Wed. Taverna dei Quaranta Via Claudia 24 T 06.700.0550. Very relaxed locals’ joint with chequered tablecloths and good, very reasonably priced home-cooking: roast lamb, zucchini ﬂowers, and polenta too, plus some interesting pasta dishes, on a menu that changes regularly. Primi €7–8, secondi €8–10. Only in Rome could this sort of place exist, ﬁve minutes from the tourist scrum at the Colosseum. Mon & Tues & Thurs–Sun noon–3pm & 7pm–midnight.

The Aventine and Testaccio Da Remo Piazza Santa Maria in Liberatrice 44 T 06.574.6270. No-nonsense Testaccio pizzeria serving some of the crispiest thin-crust Roman pizzas you’ll ﬁnd. Mon–Sat 7pm–1am. Felice Via Mastro Giorgio 29 T 06.574.6800. Don’t be put off by the “riservato” signs on the tables – the owner likes to “select” his customers. Smile and make Felice understand that you’re hungry and fond of Roman cooking. Try bucatini cacio e pepe or lamb, and, in winter, artichokes. Mon–Sat 12.30–2.45pm & 8–11.30pm. Tuttifrutti Via Luca della Robbia 3/A T 06.575.7902. This Testaccio favourite is pretty much the perfect restaurant – family-run, with good food, decent prices and lots of customers. The menu changes daily, and offers interesting variations on traditional Roman dishes. Mon–Sat 7.30–11.30pm.

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Ai Marmi Viale Trastevere 53–59 T 06.580.0919. Nicknamed “the mortuary” because of its stark interior and marble tables, this place serves unique “supplì al telefono” (deep-fried rice balls, so named because of the

string of mozzarella it forms when you take a bite), fresh baccalà and the best pizza in Trastevere. A lively slice of the real Rome. Thurs–Tues 6.30pm–2am. Da Augusto Piazza de Renzi 15 T 06.580.3798. Diner-style neighbourhood staple serving Roman basics in an unpretentious, bustling atmosphere. Good pasta and soup starters and daily meat and ﬁsh specials. Daily 12.30–3pm & 8–11pm. Da Ivo Via di San Francesco a Ripa 158 T06.581.7082. The archetypal Trastevere pizzeria, almost in danger of becoming a caricature, but still good. Arrive early to avoid a chaotic queue. Wed–Mon 6pm–midnight. Da Lucia Vicolo del Mattonato 2 T 06.580.3601. Outdoor Trastevere dining in summer is at its traditional best at this wonderful old Roman trattoria. Spaghetti cacio e pepe is the speciality. Get here early for a table outside. Tues–Sun noon–3pm & 7.30–11.30pm. Da Paris Piazza San Callisto 7/A T 06.581.5378. Fine Roman Jewish cookery and other traditional dishes in one of Trastevere’s most atmospheric piazzas. Tues–Sat noon–3pm & 7.30–11.30pm, Sun 12.30–3pm. Le Mani in Pasta Via dei Genovesi 37 T06.581.6017. This small and very relaxed restaurant with an open kitchen cooks up fantastic pasta and ﬁsh dishes for moderate to expensive prices. It’s often very crowded, and it’s worth reserving to be sure of getting in. Tues–Sat 12.20–3pm & 7.30–11pm.

Villa Borghese and north Dulcamara Via Flaminia Vecchia 449 T06.333.2108. Busy place in the increasingly hip neighbourhood around Ponte Milvio. A varied menu with great soups, pasta and inventive mains.

The Vatican and Prati Cacio e Pepe Via Avezzana 11 T06.321.7268. This rough-and-ready Prati cheapie is always busy. The menu taped to the wall offers great pasta staples like cacio e pepe, carbonara, and one of the best pastas alla gricia in town for around €7; mains go for €9–10 and are equally good. Mostly outside tables with a small inside room. No credit cards. Mon–Fri 12.30–3.30pm & 7.30–10.30pm, Sat 12.30–3.30pm. Cantina Tirolese Via G. Vitelleschi 23 T06.6813.5297. This rustic restaurant was reputedly the current pope’s favourite lunch spot while he was still a cardinal, and no wonder – the hearty and wholesome Austrian and German fare served here is excellent. The lunchtime buffet served between noon and 3pm is good value at

Osteria dell’Angelo Via G. Bettolo 24 T06.372.9470. Above-average and reasonably priced Roman cooking, from a highly popular restaurant run by an ex-rugby player. A la carte at lunch, set menus only at dinner (€25 for three courses). Mon–Sat 8–11.15pm, plus Tues & Fri 12.45–2.30pm.

Bars

Centro Storico Anima Via Santa Maria dell’ Anima 57. At present one of the city’s most popular bars, tricked out in postmodern Flintstones chic and offering an assortment of elegant snacks to go with your cocktails. Music tends towards chill-out, lounge and softer soul stuff. Tues–Sun 10pm–3am. Bar della Pace Via della Pace 5. Just off Piazza Navona, this is a long-established bar with a cosy interior and outside tables that are often thronged at night. Daily 10am–2am. Etabli Vicolo delle Vacche 9/A. Lounge-style bar and restaurant in the heart of the centro storico. Comfy sofas, free wi-ﬁ, and a pleasant, not-toocool vibe. Daily 12.30–3pm & 7pm–2am. Jonathan’s Angels Via della Fossa 18. This quirky bar, just behind Piazza Navona, certainly wins the “most decorated” award. Every inch (even the toilet, which is worth a visit in its own right) is plastered, painted or tricked out in outlandish style by the artist-proprietor. Daily 1pm–2am. Société Lutèce Piazza di Montevecchio 17. Tucked away on a tiny piazza ﬁve minutes from Piazza Navona, this is one of the centre’s coolest choices, with good cocktails and a free antipasto buffet early evening. Daily 6pm–2am.

Campo de’ Fiori and the Ghetto Bartaruga Piazza Mattei 7. Wonderfully camp bar furnished with all sorts of eighteenth-century bits and pieces that, not surprisingly, make it a favourite with the thespian set. Sun–Thurs 6pm–midnight, Fri & Sat 6pm–2am.

L’Angolo Divino Via dei Balestri 12. A peaceful haven after the furore of Campo de’ Fiori, this wine bar has a large selection of wine, and simple wine-bar food – bread, cheese, cold cuts, soups and the like. Tues–Sat 10.30am– 2pm & 5.30pm–2am, Sun & Mon 5.30pm–2am. La Vineria Campo de’ Fiori 15. This long-established bar right on the Campo is patronized by devoted regulars, and also offers light meals. Mon–Sat 8.30am–2am. Mad Jack’s Via Arenula 20. One of the nicest and most authentic of Rome’s army of Irish pubs. The Guinness is decent, and it’s not just frequented by expats and tourists.

| Eating and drinking

There are plenty of bars in Rome, and an Irish pub practically on every corner. There’s also been a recent upsurge in wine bars (enoteche or vinerie); the old ones have gained new cachet, and newer ones are springing up too, often with accompanying gourmet menus, or just plates of salami and cheese. Bear in mind that there is sometimes considerable crossover between Rome’s bars, restaurants and clubs. For the most part, the places we have listed are drinking spots, but you can eat, sometimes quite substantially, at many of them, and several could be classed just as easily as clubs, with loud music and occasionally even an entrance charge. Campo de’ Fiori, Monti, Trastevere and Testaccio are the densest and most happening parts of town.

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€9.50. Tues–Fri noon–3pm & 7.30–11pm, Sat & Sun noon–3pm & 7.30pm–midnight. Dal Toscano Via Germanico 58–60 T06.3972.5717. Long-established restaurant that specializes in Tuscan cuisine, including thick charcoal-grilled steaks, at very affordable prices. Tues–Sun 12.30–3pm & 8–11pm.

The Tridente and Quirinale L’Enoteca Antica Via della Croce 76/B. An old Spanish Steps-area wine bar, recently refurbished, with a selection of hot and cold dishes, including soups and attractive desserts. Intriguing trompe l’oeil decorations inside, majolica-topped tables outside. Daily 11am–11pm. Rosati Piazza del Popolo 5. This bar hosted leftwingers, bohemians and writers in years gone by, and although that’s no longer really the case its cocktails and food still draw the crowds. A nice place from which to watch the action on Piazza del Popolo. Daily 8am–midnight.

The Esquline, Monti and Termini Ai Tre Scalini Via Panisperna 251. Great, easy-tomiss little Monti bar, cosy and comfortable, with a

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| Nightlife and entertainment

good wine list, but beer on tap too, and decent food – cheese and salami plates plus porchetta, lasagne and other simple staples. Al Vino al Vino Via dei Serpenti 19. Seriously good wine-bar situated on the Monti district’s most happening street. Snacks too – generally Sicilian specialities. Daily 11.30am–1.30pm & 5.30pm–12.30am. La Barrique Via del Boschetto 41/B. This labyrinthine wine bar in the heart of Monti is a great spot for an aperitivo, and platters of meats and cheeses keep pre-dinner hunger pangs at bay. Mon–Fri 1–3pm & 6pm–2am, Sat 6pm–2am.

The Celian Hill and San Giovanni Tree Folks Via Capo d’Africa 29. Lots of Belgian and German brews in this popular Celio bar. Food too – plates of cold cuts, burgers and chips, salads – and their other speciality is whisky, with a selection of single malts that must be one of the city’s best. Daily 6pm–2am.

The Aventine and Testaccio Oasi della Birra Piazza Testaccio 41. Subterranean Testaccio bar with a beer selection that would rival anywhere in the world and plenty of wine to choose from as well, plus generous plates of cheese and salami. Mon–Sat 5pm–midnight, Sun 7pm–midnight.

Trastevere Ma Che Siete Venuti a Fà Via Benedetta 25. You’ll ﬁnd an amazing choice of artisanal beers from all over the world in this tiny Trastevere bar. Most of them you won’t ﬁnd anywhere else in the city, or even Italy, and this is a cosy place to work your way through them. Daily 3pm–2am.

Ombre Rosse Piazza Sant’Egidio 12. A people-watching spot that has become a Trastevere institution, especially for a morning cappuccino, but also for light meals and evening drinks. Mon–Sat 7.30am–2am, Sun 10am–2am. Pe.Pa.To Via del Politeama 8. One block back from the river, this sleek, cavernous bar is always buzzing, and the crowd usually spills outside onto the street after enjoying the excellent nightly aperitivo buffet. Daily 7pm–2am. San Calisto Piazza San Calisto 4. This bar attracts a huge crowd on late summer nights; the booze is cheap, and you can sit at outside tables for no extra cost. During the day it’s simply a great spot to sip a cappuccino in the sunshine. Mon–Sat 5.30pm–1.30am.

Villa Borghese and north Annibale Piazza dei Carracci 4. Right around the corner from MAXXI, and not far from the Auditorium, this wine bar looks set to beneﬁt from the resurgence of the area, and deservedly so. Its cool, white interior is a nice place to sip a glass of wine, and there’s an outdoor terrace in summer.

The Vatican and Prati Fonclea Via Crescenzio 82/A. Busy and happening bar in the Vatican area that hosts regular live music – usually jazz, soul and funk. Daily 7pm–2am. Four Green Fields Via C. Morin 42. This Irish pub stretches over two ﬂoors, with live music downstairs every evening. Draught Guinness and Kilkenny complement the scene, along with decent pub grub. Daily 6pm–2am. Nuvolari Via degli Ombrellari 10. This welcoming Borgo bar serves a full menu next door but also has a free early-evening buffet during the week. A good choice of wines, and a pleasant local vibe – not at all what you expect in this part of town. Mon–Sat 6.30pm–2am.

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Roman nightlife is a lot cooler and more varied than it used to be. There are a few smart clubs, principally in the centre of town, but also quite a few smaller and more alternative clubs and live music venues, mainly conﬁned to the neighbourhoods of Testaccio and Ostiense, and in up-and-coming Pigneto and Prenestino to the east of Termini – though bear in mind that some clubs close during August or move to summer premises in Ostia or Fregene. The city has historically been a bit of a backwater for the performing arts, but this has improved in recent years and in any case, what the arts here may lack they often make up for in the charm of the setting. Rome’s summer festival – Estate Romana (W www.estateromana.comune.roma.it) – means that there’s a good range of classical music and opera running throughout the warm months, often

in picturesque locations, and October’s ﬁlm festival (W www.romacinemafest .it) attracts its fair share of big names. Akab/Cave Via Monte Testaccio 69 Wwww.akab cave.com. Two venues in one: Akab is at ground level and usually plays house music, while Cave is below-ground and features r’n’b. Concerts are generally once or twice a week. Tues & Thurs–Sat 10pm–4am. Alexanderplatz Via Ostia 9 T 06.5833.5781, Wwww.alexanderplatz.it. Rome’s top live jazz club/ restaurant with reasonable membership (€10) and free entry, except when there’s star billing. Reservations recommended. Doors open 8pm. Alpheus Via del Commercio 36 T 06.574.7826, W www.alpheus.it. Housed in an ex-factory off Via Ostiense, a little way beyond Testaccio, this has space for three simultaneous events – usually a concert, DJ, exhibition or piece of theatre. Big Mama Vicolo San Francesco a Ripa 18 T06.581.2551, Wwww.bigmama.it. Trastevere-based jazz/blues club of long standing, hosting nightly acts. Monthly membership costs €8, and then entry is free except for star attractions (when it’s important to book ahead). Doors open 9pm. Casa del Jazz Viale di Porta Ardeatina 55 T06.704.731, Wwww.casajazz.it. This converted villa in leafy surroundings is the ultimate jazzlovers’ complex, with a book and CD store and restaurant, recording studios and a 150-seat auditorium that hosts jazz names most nights of the week. Metro B Piramide, or bus #714 from Termini. Admission €10. Circolo degli Artisti Via Casilina Vecchia 42 T06.7030.5684, Wwww.circoloartisti.it. A very large venue, located beyond Porta Maggiore, that

| Nightlife and entertainment

Live music venues

Black Out Via Casilina 713 T339.200.1029, W www.blackoutrockclub.com. Long-running club that plays punk, heavy metal and Goth music, with occasional gigs by US and UK bands. Classico Village Via Libetta 3 T06.5728.8857. Industrial Ostiense location with a big danceﬂoor, a venue for live music, and a restaurant. Gilda Via Mario de’ Fiori 97 T 06.678.4838, W www.gildabar.it. A few blocks from the Spanish Steps, this slick club is the focus for the city’s minor celebs and wannabes. Goa Via Libetta 13 T 06.574.8277. Ostiense club that was opened by famous local DJ Giancarlino and is still playing techno, house and jungle; Goa also has sofas to help you recover after highenergy dancing. La Maison Vicolo dei Granari 4 T06.683.3312. Ritzy club whose chandeliers and glossy decor attract Rome’s gilded youth. Sunday – gay night – is the one to go for. Micca Club Van Pietro Micca 7/A T06.8744.0079, Wwww.miccaclub.com. An atmopsheric location in an old vaulted cellar and regular DJs playing funk and soul. It also has a vintage clothes market on Sun at 6pm. Piper Via Tagliamento 9 T 06.855.5398, Wwww .piperclub.it. Established back in the 1970s, but still going strong, Piper has nightly events and a wide range of music. Qube Via Portonaccio 212 T 06.435.5445, W www.qubedisco.com. This Tiburtina club hosts a variety of different nights each week, including live music. Not the most original for music, but its Friday gay and drag night draws a big crowd.

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Clubs

Gay bars, restaurants and clubs Asinocotto Via dei Vascellari 48 T06.589.8985, W www.asinocotto.com. Gay Trastevere restaurant with a great, Proust-inspired menu of moderately priced pasta, meat and ﬁsh dishes. Worth a visit whatever your non-culinary preferences. Coming Out Via San Giovanni in Laterano 8 T 06.700.9871. This small bar is a good place for a drink, and the street it’s on is one of the city’s most popular gay hangouts. Garbo Vicolo di Santa Margherita 1/A T 06.5832.0782. Friendly Trastevere bar, just behind the main piazza, with a relaxed atmosphere and a nice setting. L’Alibi Via Monte Testaccio 44 T06.574.3448, W www.lalibi.it. Predominantly male venue that’s one of Rome’s oldest gay clubs. Downstairs there’s a multi-room cellar disco, upstairs an open-air bar, and there’s a big terrace to enjoy in the warm months. L’Hangar Via in Selci 29 T06.4881.3971. Just off Via Cavour, this is one of Rome’s oldest gay spots, and one of its busiest. Saturday night it’s almost impossible to get in the door.

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was one of the ﬁrst of the city’s co-called centri sociali. A good range of bands, with frequent themed nights, from hip-hop to ska. Fri is Omogenic – gay night. Bus #105 from Termini, or #810 from Piazza Venezia. Forte Prenestino Via F. Delpino 100 T 06.2180.7855, W www.forteprenestino.net. This early twentieth-century fortress, and giant squat since 1986, is home to one of Rome’s most active centri sociali, with regular live music, ﬁlm screenings and other events held both inside and out in

the castle courtyards. It also boasts a bookstore, various studios, and a very inexpensive restaurant (Mon–Fri). Tram #5 from Termini or bus #542 or #544 from Metro B Monti Tiburtini. Rising Love Via delle Conce 14 T333.308.2245, Wwww.risinglove.it. This Ostiense club’s Thursday “I Love Rock” nights host indie bands and DJs. Other evenings see reggae, funk, hip-hop and jam sessions. Metro Piramide, or bus #30 or #60 from Piazza Venezia, #75 from Termini, or #95 from Metro A Barberini.

| Nightlife and entertainment

Classical music and opera Rome attracts far fewer prestigious classical artists than you might expect of a capital, but it is becoming more and more a magnet for contemporary works, a sea change that has been inspired by the completion of the new Auditorium. It also has some spectacular venues – check the listings and keep a look-out for posters advertising events in churches or other non-concert-hall locations, the best of which is the Baths of Caracalla, which hosts the summer season of the city’s Teatro dell’Opera.

Shopping in Rome At ﬁrst glance, you may wonder where to start when it comes to shopping in a big, chaotic city like Rome. In fact the city promises a more appealing shopping experience than you might think, abounding with colourful shopping streets. There are some vibrant markets too: Porta Portese (see box, p.661) is chaotic but fun, while the market near Piazza Vittorio Emanuele (between Via Lamarmora and Via Ricasoli; Mon–Sat mornings) is great for foodie souvenirs. Fashion straight from the catwalk is well represented on the streets close to the Spanish Steps, where you’ll ﬁnd all the major A-list designers. More mainstream and chain fashion stores cluster on Via del Corso, Via Cola di Rienzo, near the Vatican, and Via Nazionale, while the streets of the Monti district are home to an increasing number of stylish independent boutiques. Via del Governo Vecchio is the best stretch of funky, stylish independent fashion boutiques and vintage stores. Or just follow your nose – in Rome you’re almost bound to stumble across something interesting.

Books, music and stationery Fabriano Via del Babuino 172. This long-running chain sells bright and contemporary stationery, wallets and briefcases. Mon–Sat 10am–7.30pm. Lion Bookshop Via dei Greci 33. Veteran English bookshop with a lounge area where you can enjoy a coffee or tea. Mon 3.30–7.30pm, Tues–Sun 10am–7.30pm. Open Door Bookshop Via della Lungaretta 23. You never know what treasures you might turn up in this ancient secondhand bookstore, with plenty in English. Mon 4.30–8.30pm, Tues–Fri 10.30am–8.30pm, Sat 10.30am–midnight, Sun noon–6pm; afternoons and evenings only in summer. Soul Food Via di San Giovanni in Laterano 192–194. This vinyl junkie’s paradise – a CD-free zone – has lots of stuff from the 1960s and 1970s, and genuinely enthusiastic staff too. Tues–Sat 10.30am–1.30pm & 3.30–8pm.

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Arsenale Via del Governo Vecchio 64. One of the largest boutiques along this funky stretch, with great dresses by the owner Patrizia Pieroni and lots of other stuff by independent designers. Mon 3.30–7.30pm, Tues–Sat 10am–7.30pm.

Film There tends to be limited English-language cinema on offer in Rome (look for “v.o.” – versione originale – in the ﬁlm listings), but if your Italian is up to it, you’ll naturally also ﬁnd current Italian-language productions available all over town.

Aspesi Via del Babuino 144. Flagship store of the contemporary Italian designer, with cool designs for both men and women. Ibiz Via dei Chiavari 39. Great leather bags, purses and rucksacks in exciting contemporary designs made on the premises. Mon–Sat 10am–7.30pm. NuYorica Piazza Pollarola 36/37. Stylish shop specializing in shoes and bags by contemporary designers. Mon–Sat 10.30am–7.30pm.

| Nightlife and entertainment

Nobody compares it to La Scala, but cheap tickets are a lot easier to come by at Rome’s opera and ballet venue – they start at around €25 for opera, less for ballet – and important artists do sometimes perform here. Don’t miss their summer season of concerts held in the Baths of Caracalla. Box ofﬁce Mon–Sat 9am–5pm, Sun 9am–1.30pm. Teatro Olimpico Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17 T06.326.5991, Wwww.teatroolimpico.it. Classical standards, chamber music and ballet are performed here, by resident orchestra Accademia Filarmonica Romana, as well as occasional contemporary work. Tickets are cheap (€15–35) and relatively easy to come by.

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Auditorium/Parco della Musica Via P. de Coubertin 15 T 199.109.783, Wwww.auditorium .com. This landmark music complex is Rome’s most prestigious venue, home to the Orchestra dell’Accademia di Santa Cecilia, who are resident part of the year in its largest hall. Two smaller venues host chamber, choral, recital and experimental works. The complex also hosts major rock and jazz names when they come to town. Box ofﬁce daily 11am–8pm. Guided tours €9. Oratorio del Gonfalone Via del Gonfalone 32/A T 06.687.5952. This lovely theatre, just off Campo de’ Fiori, stages performances of chamber music, with an emphasis on the Baroque. Teatro dell’Opera di Roma Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1 T 06.4816.0255, W www.operaroma.it.

Food and wine Buccone Via di Ripetta 19. One of the city centre’s best wine stores, with wines and spirits from all Italian regions. Mon–Thurs 9am–8.30pm, Fri & Sat 9am–midnight, Sun 10am–5pm. Castroni Via Cola di Rienzo 196. Huge, labyrinthine food store that’s a great place to stock up a large selection of Italian treats including chocolates, pastas, sauces, and olive oils – plus a café. Other branches at Via Ottaviano 55 and Via delle Quattro Fontane. Mon–Sat 8am–8pm. Moriondo & Gariglio Via del Pie’ di Marmo 21–22. The city centre’s most sumptuous and reﬁned handmade chocolate shop – great for exquisitely wrapped gifts. Mon–Sat 9.30am–1pm & 3.30–7.30pm. Volpetti Via Marmorata 47. It’s worth seeking out this Testaccio deli, which is truly one of Rome’s very best. If you’re lucky, one of the staff will let you sample their truly incredible mozzarella di bufala. Mon–Sat 8am–2pm & 5–8pm.

Gifts Fratelli Alinari Via Alibert 16/A. A ﬁne selection of black-and-white photographs of Rome from over 100 years ago. Prices start at around €40. Mon–Sat 3.30–7.30pm. Old Soccer Via di Ripetta 30. Old-fashioned Italian football shirts from around €70 – ironically enough, made in England. Daily 10am–8pm. Roma Store Via della Lungaretta 63. Not a football merchandise store but a shop selling classic perfumes, scented soaps, lotions and candles. Only the very ﬁnest from Italy, France and England. Mon 4–8pm, Tues–Sat 9.30am–1.30pm & 4–8pm.

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Alcazar Via Merry del Val 14 T 06.588.0099. Trastevere cinema featuring mainstream American and English ﬁlms, with weird ones slipping in on Mondays. Casa del Cinema Largo Marcello Mastroianni 1 T 06.423.601, W www.casadelcinema.it. Right by the Porta Pinciana entrance to the Villa Borghese, this building epitomizes Rome’s cultural renaissance under former mayor Walter Veltroni, opened in 2004 as a venue for reruns and retrospectives and dedicated to Italy’s most famous international ﬁlm actor, Marcello Mastroianni.

Metropolitan Via del Corso 7 T 06.320.0933. The city centre’s largest multiscreen cinema, with at least one of the four screens showing undubbed versions. Nuovo Olimpia Via in Lucina 16 T06.686.1068. Very central, just off Via del Corso, with two screens, and regularly featuring ﬁlms in their original language. Nuovo Sacher Largo Ascianghi 1 T06.581.8116. Trastevere cinema set up by the Italian director Nanni Moretti, and always showing their current ﬁlm – mainly foreign independent movies – in its original version on Monday and Tuesday.

Listings Bike and scooter rental Barberini, Via della Puriﬁcazione 84 (T 06.488.5485), rents out bikes, mopeds and scooters. Bikes cost €10 per day, mopeds €30–40, scooters €50–70. Open daily 9am–7pm. Books All of the following are excellent English-language bookshops: Anglo-American Bookshop (Via delle Vite 102; T 06.679.5222); Almost Corner Bookshop (Via del Moro 45; T 06.583.6942); Lion Bookshop (Via dei Greci 33; T 06.3265.4007). Car rental All the usual suspects have desks at Fiumicino, Ciampino, Termini and elsewhere in the city. Avis T 06.4423.0134; Europcar T 06.488.2854; Hertz T 06.321.6886; Maggiore T 06.488.3715. Dentist 24hr dental care is available at the George Eastman hospital, Viale Regina Margherita 287. Embassies Australia, Via Bosio 5 T 06.852.721; Britain, Via XX Settembre 80/A T 06.4220.0001; Canada, Via Zara 30 T 06.445.981; Ireland, Piazza Campitelli 3 T 06.697.9121; New Zealand, Via Zara 28 T 06.441.7171; South Africa, Via Tanaro T 06.852.541; US, Via Veneto 119 T 06.46.741. Emergencies Police T 113; Carabinieri T 112; Fire T 115; Ambulance T118. Both the police and the carabinieri have ofﬁces in Termini. Otherwise the most central police ofﬁce is off Via del Corso in Piazza del Collegio Romano 3 (T 06.46.86), and there’s a carabinieri ofﬁce in Piazza Venezia. Exchange American Express, Piazza di Spagna 38 (Mon–Fri 9.30am–5.30pm, Sat 9am–12.30pm); Thomas Cook, Piazza Barberini 21/A (Mon–Sat 9am–8pm, Sun 9.30am–5pm) and Via della Conciliazione 23 (Mon–Sat 8.30am–7.30pm,

Sun 9.30am–5pm). Post ofﬁces will exchange American Express travellers’ cheques and cash commission-free. An Ufﬁcio Cambio will almost always offer the worst rates. Football Rome’s two big teams, Roma and Lazio, play on alternate Sundays between Sept and May at the Olympic Stadium, northwest of the centre. Take tram #2 from Piazzale Flaminio to Piazza Mancini and then walk across the river to the stadium. Lazio fans traditionally occupy the Curva Nord, the northern end, and Roma fans the Curva Sud. It’s usually easiest to pick up seats in the corner stands, or distinti, for €25–35; seats in the side stands, or tribuna, cost €50–100. Wwww .romalazio.co.uk has information in English on both clubs and sells tickets. Hospitals In an emergency call T118. The most central hospitals with emergency facilities are: Santo Spirito, Lungotevere in Sassia 1 (T06.68.351), near the Vatican, and Fatebenefratelli, Isola Tiberina (T06.683.7299). Internet access Bibli, Via dei Fienaroli 28 (Tues–Sun 11am–midnight, Mon 5.30pm– midnight); Yex, Piazza Sant’Andrea delle Valle 1 (daily 10am–11pm). Lost property For property lost on a train call T06.4730.6682 (daily 7am–11pm); on a bus T06.581.6040 (Mon & Fri 8.30am–1pm, Tues–Thurs 2.30–6pm); on the metro T06.487.4309. Pharmacies The following pharmacies are open late: Piram, Via Nazionale 228 (T06.488.0754); Farmacia della Stazione, Piazza dei Cinquecento 51 (T06.488.0019). Post ofﬁces The main post ofﬁce is on Piazza San Silvestro (Mon–Fri 8.30am–6.30pm, Sat 8.30am–1pm).

Out from the city: Ostia Antica and Tivoli

There are two Ostias: one a rather over-visited seaside resort, Lido di Ostia; the other, one of the ﬁnest ancient Roman sites – the excavations of OSTIA ANTICA – which are on a par with anything you’ll see in Rome itself (or indeed elsewhere in Italy) and easily merit the half-day journey out. It’s reachable by regular train from Roma-Lido station, next door to the Piramide metro station (line B). The site of Ostia Antica marked the coastline in classical times, and the town which grew up here was the port of ancient Rome, a thriving place whose commercial activities were vital to the city further upstream. The excavations are relatively free of tourists (April–Oct Tues–Sun 8.30am–6pm; March 8.30am– 5pm; Nov–Feb 8.30am–4pm; €6.50), and it’s much easier to reconstruct a Roman town from these than from any amount of pottering around the Roman Forum. It’s also very spread out, so be prepared for a fair amount of walking.

| Ostia Antica

Ostia Antica

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You may ﬁnd there’s quite enough in Rome to keep you occupied during your stay, but it can be a hot, oppressive city and if you’re around long enough you shouldn’t feel bad about getting out to see something of the countryside; and in fact two of the main attractions visitable on a day-trip from Rome are the equal of anything you can see in the city. Tivoli, about an hour by bus east of Rome, is a small town famous for the travertine quarries nearby, the landscaped gardens and parks of its Renaissance villas, and a ﬁne ancient Roman villa just outside. Ostia, in the opposite direction near the sea, and similarly easy to reach on public transport, was home to the port of Rome in classical times, and the well-preserved site is worth seeing.

The site

The main street, the Decumanus Maximus, leads west from the entrance, past the Baths of Neptune on the right (where there’s an interesting mosaic) to the town’s commercial centre, otherwise known as the Piazzale delle Corporazioni, for the remains of shops and trading offices that still fringe the central square. These represented commercial enterprises from all over the ancient world, and the mosaics just in front denote their trade – grain merchants, shipﬁtters, rope makers and the like. Flanking one side of the square, the theatre has been much restored but is nonetheless impressive, enlarged by Septimius Severus in the second century AD to hold up to four thousand people. On the left of the square, the House of Apulius preserves mosaic ﬂoors and, beyond, a dark-aisled mithraeum has more mosaics illustrating the cult’s practices. Behind here – past the substantial remains of the horrea or warehouses that once stood all over the city – the Casa di Diana is probably the best-preserved private house in Ostia, with a dark, mysterious set of rooms around a central courtyard, again with a mithraeum at the back. You can climb up to its roof for a ﬁne view of the rest of the site, afterwards crossing the road to the Thermopolium – an ancient Roman café, complete with seats outside, a high counter, display shelves and even wall paintings of parts of the menu. North of the Casa di Diana, the Museo Ostiense holds a variety of articles from the site, including a statue of Mithras killing a bull, wall paintings depicting domestic life in Ostia, and some ﬁne sarcophagi and statuary from the imperial period. Left from here, the Forum centres on the Capitol building, reached by a wide ﬂight of

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steps, and is fringed by the remains of baths and a basilica. Further on down the main street, more horrea, superbly preserved and complete with pediment and names inscribed on the marble, merit a detour off to the right; although you can’t enter, you can peer into the courtyard. Beyond, the House of Cupid and Psyche has a courtyard you can walk into, its rooms clearly discernible on one side, a colourful marbled ﬂoor on the other.

Tivoli

| Tivoli

Perched high on a hill just 40km from Rome, TIVOLI has always been something of a retreat from the city. In classical days it was a retirement town for wealthy Romans; later, during Renaissance times, it again became the playground of the moneyed classes, attracting some of the city’s most well-to-do families, who built their country villas out here. Nowadays the leisured classes have mostly gone, but Tivoli does very nicely on the fruits of its still-thriving travertine business, exporting the precious stone worldwide (the quarries line the main road into town from Rome), and supports a small centre that preserves a number of relics from its ritzier days. To do justice to the gardens and villas – especially if Villa Adriana is on your list, as indeed it should be – you’ll need time, so it’s worth setting out early. Villa d’Este

Tivoli’s major sight is the Villa d’Este, across the main square of Largo Garibaldi (daily: May–Aug 8.30am–6.45pm; Sept 8.30am–6.15pm; Oct 8.30am–5.30pm; Jan, Nov & Dec 8.30am–4pm; Feb 8.30am–4pm; March 8.30am–5.15pm; April 8.30am–6.30pm; €6.50; W www.villadestetivoli.info), the country villa of Cardinal Ippolito d’Este, and now often thronged with visitors even outside peak season. The villa has been restored to its original state, with beautiful Mannerist frescoes in its seven ground-ﬂoor rooms showing scenes from the history of the d’Este family in Tivoli. But most people come here to see the garden, which peels away down the hill in a succession of terraces dotted with fountains. Among the highlights are the Fontana dell’Ovato on the right, topped with statues on a curved terrace around artiﬁcial mountains, behind which is a rather dank arcade. Beyond are the dark, gushing Grottoes of the Sibyls and behind them the Fontana dell’Organo, a giant and very elaborate water-organ which plays every couple of hours; right in front, the similarly large Fontana del Nettuno ejects a massive

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Buses leave Rome for Tivoli every 10min from outside Ponte Mammolo metro station (line B; journey time 30–45min) and drop off on Tivoli’s main square, Piazza Garibaldi, two minutes’ walk from the Villa d’Este. To get to the Villa Gregoriana from here, make a right off Piazza Garibaldi to Piazza Santa Croce and follow Via del Trivio through the pedestrianized old town to Piazza del Plebiscito, where Via Palatina continues down to the bridge over the gorge. Cross over, and the back entrance is just around the corner on the left – a ten-minute walk in all. To get to the Villa Adriana, ask the Rome– Tivoli bus driver to drop you off or take the CAT #4 bus from Tivoli’s Piazza Garibaldi; it’s a ten-minute walk from the main road. The tourist ofﬁce is on Largo Garibaldi (Mon & Sat 9am–3pm, Tues–Fri 9am–6.30pm; T0774.334.522). Overlooking the Villa Gregoriana, right by the entrance, Sibilla, Via Sibilla 50 (T0774.335.281), is one of the best restaurants in Tivoli, while I Portici, in the centre of town at Piazza Garibaldi 5, is a good place for baccalà or pizza, and has tables outside.

torrent down into a set of central ﬁsh ponds. Finish up on the far side of the garden, where the Rometta or “Little Rome” has reproductions of the city’s major buildings and a boat holding an obelisk. Villa Gregoriana ROME AND L AZ I O

| Tivoli

Tivoli’s other main attraction, the Villa Gregoriana (April to mid-Oct Tues– Sun 10am–6.30pm; March & mid-Oct to end Nov Tues–Sat 10am–2.30pm, Sun 10am–4pm; €5), isn’t actually a villa at all, but an impressively wild set of landscaped gardens, created when Pope Gregory XVI diverted the ﬂow of the river here to ease the periodic ﬂooding of the town in 1831. At least as interesting and beautiful as the d’Este estate, it remains less well known and less visited, and has none of the latter’s conceits – its vegetation is lush and overgrown, descending into a gorge over 60m deep. There are two main waterfalls – the larger Grande Cascata on the far side, and a small Bernini-designed one at the neck of the gorge. The best thing to do is walk the main path in reverse, starting at the back entrance, over the river, and winding down to the bottom of the canyon. The ruins of a Republican-era villa cling to the far side of the gorge, and you can peek into them and then catch your breath down by the so-called Grotto of the Mermaid, before scaling the other side to the Grotto of Neptune, reached by a tunnelled-out passage through the rock, where you can sit right by the roaring falls, the dark, torn shapes of the rock glowering overhead. The path leads up from here to an exit and the substantial remains of an ancient Temple of Vesta, which marks the main entrance to the villa. You can take a breather at the small café here, and the view is probably Tivoli’s best – down into the chasm and across to the high green hills that ring the town. Villa Adriana

Just outside town, at the bottom of the hill, ﬁfteen minutes’ walk off the main Rome, the Villa Adriana (daily 9am–1hr before sunset; €6.50) casts the invention of the Tivoli popes and cardinals very much into the shade. This was probably the largest and most sumptuous villa in the Roman Empire, the retirement home of the Emperor Hadrian for a short while between 135 AD and his death three years later, and it occupies an enormous site. There’s no point in doing it at a gallop and, taken with the rest of Tivoli, it makes for a long day’s sightseeing. The site is one of the most soothing spots around Rome, its stones almost the epitome of romantic, civilized ruins. The imperial palace buildings proper are in fact one of the least well preserved parts of the complex, but much else is clearly recognizable. Hadrian was a great traveller and a keen architect, and parts of the villa were inspired by buildings he had seen throughout the empire. The massive Pecile, for instance, through which you enter, is a reproduction of a building in Athens; and the Canopus, on the opposite side of the site, is a liberal copy of the sanctuary of Serapis near Alexandria, its long, elegant channel of water fringed by sporadic columns and statues leading up to a Temple of Serapis at the far end. Nearby, a museum displays the latest ﬁnds from the ongoing excavations, though most of the extensive original discoveries have found their way back to Rome. Walking back towards the entrance, make your way across the upper storey of the so-called Pretorio, a former warehouse, and down to the remains of two bath complexes. Beyond is a ﬁshpond with a cryptoporticus (underground passageway) winding around underneath, and behind that the relics of the emperor’s imperial apartments. The Teatro Maríttimo, adjacent, with its island in the middle of a circular pond, is the place to which it’s believed Hadrian would retire at siesta time to be sure of being alone.

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| Northern Lazio • Etruria and the coast

Northern Lazio, or “Alto Lazio”, is quite a different entity from the region south of the capital and is well worth a visit. Green and wooded in the centre, its steadily more undulating hills hint at the landscapes of Tuscany and Umbria further north. Few large towns exist, however, and, with determination (and, ideally, a car), you can see much of it on day-trips from Rome. Foremost among the area’s attractions is the legacy of the Etruscans, a sophisticated pre-Roman people swathed in mystery. To the west, some of their most important sites are readily accessible by road or rail – principally the necropolises at Cerveteri and Tarquinia. Alternatively there’s the town and lake at Bracciano, and places to swim from Tarquinia up to Civitavecchia – playgrounds for hot and bothered Romans on summer weekends. Viterbo, the medieval “city of popes”, can serve as a base if you’re thinking of a two- or three-day visit, particularly if you’re touring without a car. It’s close to some ﬁne examples of the region’s Mannerist villas and gardens at Caprarola and Bagnaia – and the amazing monster park at Bomarzo.

Etruria and the coast D.H. Lawrence had pretty much the last word on the plain, low hills stretching north from Rome towards the Tuscan border, describing the landscape as “lifeless looking… as if it had given up its last gasp and was now forever inert.” His Etruscan Places, published in 1932, is one of the best introductions to this pre-Roman civilization and its cities, which, one or two beaches excepted (see box, p.686), are the main reasons for venturing out here. Cerveteri

CERVETERI provides the most accessible Etruscan taster. The settlement here dates back to the tenth century BC. Once known as Caere, it ranked among the top three cities in the twelve-strong Etruscan federation, its wealth derived largely from the mineral-rich Tolfa hills to the northeast – a gentle range that gives the plain a much-needed touch of scenic colour. In its heyday, the town spread over

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The Lazio transport system, run by COTRAL, is divided into seven zones, which spread out concentrically from Rome. It’s possible to buy season tickets – by the day, week, or month – to travel within them. The BIRG (Biglietto Integrato Regionale Giornaliero) is valid all day for unlimited travel on the state railway, COTRAL buses and the Rome metro, and prices range from €2.50 to €10.50, depending on the number of zones. A €7 ticket, covering four zones, for example, will get you from Rome to Viterbo. Weekly passes – the CIRS (Carta Integrata Regionale Settimanale) – cost from €9 to €41. Vendors – train and bus ticket ofﬁces, newspaper stands and tobacconists – can advise you on the required zone, or see Wwww.cotralspa.it. Note that COTRAL buses often follow the school-day schedule during the week and run much less frequently on weekends, especially Sundays. In smaller towns, ticket ofﬁces close in the afternoon, so be sure to buy your ticket ahead of time.

Civitavecchia

| Etruria and the coast

150 hectares (something like thirty times its present size), controlling territory 50km up the coast. By the third century BC, Caere was under Roman control, leading to the decline of Etruscan culture in the region. The present town is a thirteenth-century creation, dismissed by D.H. Lawrence – and you really can’t blame him – as “forlorn beyond words”. On arrival, make straight for the Etruscan Necropolis della Banditaccia (Tues–Sun: May–Sept 8.30am–7pm; Oct–April 8.30am–4pm; €6, €8 including museum), just 1km away from the town centre and signposted from the central piazza. From the seventh to second centuries BC, some ﬁfty thousand Etruscans were buried in this literal city of the dead, weird and fantastically well preserved with complete streets and homes. The Etruscan elite did not practise cremation, preferring to have their remains laid on beds or in sarcophagi carved directly out of the rock. The tombs were kitted out like homes, complete with beds, furniture and wall decorations. There are twelve or so show-tombs, lying between the two main roads, the best of which are the Tomba dei Rilievi (Tomb of the Bas-Reliefs), Tomba delle Cornici (Tomb of the Frames) and the Tomba dei Capitelli (Tomb of the Column Capitals). You could spend several hours wandering about, but you might be better off heading back into town to the Museo Nazionale Cerite at the top of the old quarter in the sixteenth-century Castello Ruspoli (Tues–Sun 8.30am–7.30pm; €4). This has two large rooms containing a fraction of the huge wealth that was buried with the Etruscan dead – vases, terracottas and a run of miscellaneous day-to-day objects; most of the best stuff, though, has been whisked away to Villa Giulia in Rome (see p.664).

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The only reason to break a journey in Civitavecchia, 30km north of Cerveteri, is to catch a ferry to Sardinia (see p.953 for details of crossings). The docks are in the city centre at the end of Viale Garibaldi beside the Forte Michelangelo, ten minutes’ walk from the train station. Beware of taxis (both legal and otherwise) lurking at the port and station: they charge outrageous prices to shuttle you and your luggage around town. If you’re planning on staying the night, it’s best to arrange a pick-up with your hotel; note also that the port has a left-luggage ofﬁce (Pier 18–20). There is a tourist ofﬁce inside the Forte Michelangelo (Mon–Sat 9am–1pm; T 0766.20299). Just above the fortress in Piazza Vittorio, COTRAL buses depart for Cerveteri, Tarquinia and Viterbo. Free regular shuttles whisk passengers from the tourist ofﬁce to the departure piers. Ferry tickets are sold at Piers 18–20; travel agents in town can make reservations (essential in the summer months) for a fee. Should you get stuck downtown, try the Hotel Traiano at Via F. Filzi 1 (T 0766.544.282, W www .hoteltraiano.com; 3 ), or, failing that, the basic and convenient Hotel Traghetto on Via Braccianese Claudia 4 (T 0766.25.920, Wwww.hoteltraghetto.it; 2 ), which is 300m from the port. As for eating, Trattoria Sora Maria, off Largo Plebiscito on Via Zara 14 (T 0766.32.945; closed Wed), is known for its ﬁsh dishes; for quick sandwiches and pizzas, try Vapoforno around the corner on Via Regina Elena 16 (closed Sun eve).

Practicalities

COTRAL buses run to Cerveteri from Rome’s Cornelia station on metro line A (every 30min; 1hr) to Piazza Aldo Moro. The same bus also links the town to the nearest train station 7km downhill in Ladispoli. There’s no need to stay, but you can quench your appetite at the traditional trattoria Tuchulcha, on the necropolis road, which serves hearty country-style food and crisp Cerveteri white wines (no credit cards; closed Mon).

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| Etruria and the coast

Second only to Cerveteri among northern Lazio’s Etruscan sites, TARQUINIA is both an evocative site and pleasant town, its partial walls and crop of medieval towers making it a good place to pass an afternoon after seeing the ruins. Its museum is also the region’s ﬁnest outside Rome. Once the artistic, cultural and probably political capital of Etruria, the wooden city has now all but vanished and all that is left is the Necropolis of Monterozzi (Tues–Sun: summer 8.30am–7.30pm; winter 8.30am–2pm; €6, €8 including museum). Founded in the tenth century BC, the city’s population peaked around 100,000, but the Roman juggernaut triggered its decline six hundred years later and only a warren of graves remains. Since the eighteenth century, six thousand tombs have been uncovered, but grave-robbing is common (thieves are known as tombaroli). Fresh air and humidity have also damaged the wall paintings and attempts at conservation mean tombs are open on a rotating basis. In the tombs, some of the frescoes depict the inhabitants’ expectations of the afterlife: scenes of banqueting, hunting and even a ménage à trois. The famed Tomba dei Caronti makes a darker prediction, with demons greeting the deceased. The earliest paintings emphasize mythical and ritualistic scenes, but the sixth- to fourth-century works – in the dell’Orco, degli Auguri and della Caccia e Pesca tombs – show greater social realism. This style is a mixture of Greek, indigenous Etruscan and eastern inﬂuences: the ease and ﬂuidity points to a civilization at its peak. Later efforts grow increasingly morbid with purely necromantic drawings – enough to discourage picnic lunches on the pleasant, grassy site. In town, the Museo Nazionale Tarquiniense on Piazza Cavour (Tues–Sun 8.30am–7.30pm; €6, €8 including necropolis) has a choice collection of Etruscan ﬁnds, sensitively housed in an attractive Gothic-Renaissance palazzo. The ground ﬂoor exhibits superb sculpted sarcophagi, many decorated with warm and human portraits of the deceased. Upstairs are displays of exquisite Etruscan gold jewellery, painted ceramics, bronzes, candlesticks, heads and ﬁgures. The impressive top ﬂoor houses the collection’s ﬁnest piece – the renowned winged horses (fourth century BC), probably from a temple frieze. The Sala delle Armi boasts panoramic views of the countryside and sea. Practicalities

Trains run roughly hourly to Tarquinia from both Rome Termini and Ostiense and take around an hour. There are around eight buses a day from Lepanto station on metro line A – a two-hour journey. The town’s train station is 2km below the town centre, connected with the central Barriera San Giusto by regular local shuttles. Buses run from here to the necropolis, or it’s a twenty-minute walk: take

Tarquinia Lido

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Tarquinia Lido, reachable by public transport from Barriera San Giusto via the train station, is at the centre of the nearby stretch of coast – heavily developed with restaurants, discos and the like, but it might just hit the spot after sedate Tarquinia proper. If you choose to stay, the Albergo Miramare, Viale dei Tirreni 36 (T0766.864.020, W www.miramare-nautilus.it; 2 ), has tidy en suites with a mishmash of antiques and 1970s furnishings. The hotel is across from the free beach and its restaurant, Nautilus, is attached. Nearby in the Saline (salt marshes), you might ﬁnd a spot at the B&B Antica Salina, Via Filippo Giorgi 1 (T 0766.864.172 or 380.712.2628, Wwww .anticasalina.it; 2 ). Head south for 1km along the road to the Saline and you’ll see it on your left, just before you get to the salt marshes, which have been turned into a nature reserve and bird sanctuary.

Lago di Vico and Caprarola

Caprarola Over and above the lake’s sheer prettiness, there’s not much besides the odd attractive village and a scattering of Roman and Etruscan remains – none terribly interesting in their own right, but worthwhile if you can string several together. More deserving of individual attention is the Palazzo Farnese at CAPRAROLA, which, like the villas at Bagnaia and Bomarzo, ranks among the high points of sixteenth-century Italian Mannerism.

| Lago di Vico and Caprarola

The smallest of northern Lazio’s lakes is the only one deemed worthy of nature reserve status. LAGO DI VICO is a former volcanic crater ringed by mountains, the highest of which, Monte Fogliano, rises to 963m on the western shore. The Via Cimina traverses the summit ridges and is a popular scenic drive, dotted with restaurants, but there’s a quieter road (closed to cars) near the shoreline.

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Via Umberto I from Piazza Cavour, pass through the Porta Romana, cross Piazza Europa, follow Via IV Novembre/Via delle Croci up the hill, and the site is on the left. Perhaps the most atmospheric place to eat is Re Tarquinio, at Via Alberata Dante Alighieri 10, which serves meals in tufa caves tastefully made up like tombs (T 0766.842.125; closed Tues). Otherwise, try La Cantina dell’Etrusco on Via Menotti Garibaldi 13, which serves up rustic local fare in a converted fourteenthcentury cantina (T 0766.858.418; closed Tues).

The Palazzo Farnese

The palace (daily: mid-April to mid-Sept 9am–6.30pm; March to mid-April & mid-Sept to Oct 9am–4.30pm; Nov–Feb 9am–4pm; guided visits every 30min, which last an hour; €2; T 0761.646.6052) stands huge and imposing at the top of the town’s steep main street, Via Nicolai. Begun by Antonio da Sangallo the Younger for Pierluigi Farnese in the early 1520s, it was originally more a castle than a palace, situated at the centre of the Farnese family lands. Later, Cardinal Alessandro Farnese took up residence here, in 1559 hiring Vignola to modify the building while retaining its peculiar pentagonal ﬂoor-plan. Vignola was among the most accomplished architects of the late Renaissance, and his creation here exempliﬁes the Mannerist style at its best. Of the palace’s ﬁve ﬂoors only the ﬁrst is open to the public, accessed by a magniﬁcently decorated spiral staircase that opens onto a circular courtyard. The ﬁrst and last rooms are perhaps the best. The former has a super-embellished grotto-like fountain and pictures of local communities like Caprarola itself (the central scene is an imaginary one). The latter, the Sala del Mappamondo, boasts huge painted maps of the known world and a wonderful ceiling fresco of the constellations. Outside there are gardens (guided tours: lower gardens, see palace times above; upper gardens: Mon–Sat 10am, 11am, noon & 3pm, Sun 10.30am, noon & 3pm), divided into summer and winter sections. Look out for the artiﬁcial grotto and the stalactites in the lower gardens. Practicalities

Without your own car, it’s best to use Viterbo as a base and take one of the regular buses (Mon–Sat) from here to Caprarola. This entails a very pleasant 45-minute ride through the wooded hills of the Monti Cimini that leaves you at the foot of the main street, from where it’s a ten-minute walk to the palace at the top. Caprarola

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has few hotels. The La Rocca B&B at Piazza Romeo Romei 7 (T 0761.646.411, W www.bblarocca.it; 2 ), near the palazzo, is your bet bet. For food, there’s the Bella Gioia, a simple and inexpensive trattoria very conveniently located off to the left of Piazza Romei in front of the palace (T 0761.646.963; closed Tues). ROME AND L AZ I O

Bracciano

| Bracciano • Viterbo and around

The closest of northern Lazio’s lakes to Rome, Lago di Bracciano ﬁlls an enormous volcanic crater, a smooth, roughly circular expanse of water that’s popular – but not too popular – with Romans keen to escape the summer heat of the city. It’s nothing spectacular, with few real sights and a landscape of rather plain, rolling countryside, but its shores are fairly peaceful even on summer Sundays, and you can eat excellent lake ﬁsh in its restaurants. The lake’s main settlement is BRACCIANO on the western shore, about an hour by train from Rome Ostiense, a small town that was catapulted into the news when Tom Cruise and Katie Holmes got married here in 2006. The couple tied the knot at the imposing Castello Odescalchi, Piazza Mazzini 14 (April– Sept Tues–Sat 10am–noon & 3–6pm, Sun 9am–12.30pm; Oct–March Tues–Sat 10am–noon & 3–5.30pm, Sun 9am–12.30pm; tours every 30min, which last 1hr; €7), which dominates the town, a late ﬁfteenth-century structure privately owned by the Odescalchi family. The outer walls, now mostly disappeared, contained the rectangular piazza of the medieval town; the view from the ramparts is worth the admission price alone. The best place to swim in the lake is from the beach at Lungolago Argenti, a ten-minute walk along Via del Lago from Bracciano town. You can rent a boat and picnic on the beach, and the nearby trattorias are good and inexpensive – try Da Tonino at no. 18 right on the beach (T 0699.805.580; closed Mon), which serves good pasta and ﬁsh. The shore between Trevignano and Anguillara, both connected to Bracciano by local buses, also boasts ﬁne swimming spots, as well as good restaurants in both of the towns.

Viterbo and around The capital of its province, and indeed of northern Lazio as a whole, VITERBO is easily the region’s most historic centre, a medieval town that during the thirteenth century was once something of a rival to Rome. It was, for a time, the residence of popes, a succession of whom relocated here after friction in the capital, and today there are some vestiges of its vanquished prestige – a handful of grand palaces and numerous medieval churches, enclosed by an intact set of walls. The town is a well-kept place and refreshingly untouched by much tourist traffic, but only really worth staying in if you’re keen to visit the surrounding area. Otherwise, buses and trains run frequently to Rome and you can comfortably see the town in a day.

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Unusually for a small town, Viterbo has three train stations: the Porta Romana station south of the centre and Porta Fiorentina station to the north are both on the Roma–Viterbo line from Ostiense, Trastevere and San Pietro; of these, Porta Fiorentina on Viale Trento is handier for hotels. The third station is the terminus

for the Roma-Nord line from Piazza Flaminia. The main bus depot (served by the COTRAL network) is a ten-minute walk from the centre, out past Porta Fiorentina on the Tangenziale Ovest. There’s a tourist office on Via Ascenzi 4 (Tues–Sun 10am–1pm & 3–6pm; T 0761.325.992). Casa Sabina Wwww.casa-sabina.com. This beautiful apartment with two double bedrooms, located just outside Viterbo in the hill-town of Soriano del Cimino, is the perfect spot from which to explore northern Lazio if you’re self-catering. Tuscia Via Cairoli 41 T0761.344.400, W www.tusciahotel.com. Large and central hotel with clean if unimaginatively furnished rooms. Its bright roof terrace is a pleasant spot for breakfast in ﬁne weather. 2

The Town If there is a centre to Viterbo, it’s Piazza del Plebiscito, girdled almost entirely by ﬁfteenth- and sixteenth-century buildings. The lions and palm trees that reﬂect each other across the square are the city’s symbols, repeated, with grandiose echoes of Venice, all over town. You can peek into the ﬁne Renaissance courtyard of the main, arcaded building of the Palazzo dei Priori (Mon–Sat 9am–1pm & 4–6.30pm; free). The council chamber is decorated with a series of murals depicting Viterbo’s history right back to Etruscan times in a weird mixture of pagan and Christian motifs – a melange continued across the square in the church of Sant’Angelo. Roads fork in many directions from the piazza. Most interesting is Via San Lorenzo, which sweeps past the pretty Piazza di Gesù to the macabrely named Piazza della Morte – the “Square of Death”, after the paupers and abandoned corpses that were buried here by the monks. A left from here leads to Viterbo’s oldest district, the Quartiere San Pellegrino, a tight mess of hilly streets, home to a number of art and antique shops, while in the opposite direction, Piazza San Lorenzo is ﬂanked by the town’s most historic buildings. Chief among these is the Palazzo dei Papi, a thirteenth-century structure with impressive views from its loggia looking over the green gorge that cuts into central Viterbo. Most of the palace is closed to the public but you can visit the Aula del Conclave, venue of the election of half a dozen or so popes. Opposite, the Duomo is a plain Romanesque church that has an elegant striped ﬂoor and an understated beauty unusual among Italian churches. Some of its treasure is held in the Museo del Colle del Duomo next door (summer Tues–Sun 10am–1pm & 3–8pm; winter Tues–Sun 10am–1pm & 3–6pm; €5). Northeast of Piazza del Plebiscito, Via Roma becomes Corso Italia, Viterbo’s main shopping area and the scene of a busy passeggiata in the evenings. At its far end, steps lead up from Piazza Verdi to the nineteenth-century church of Santa Rosa, where the desiccated corpse of the town’s patron saint can be seen in the second chapel on the right – a faintly grotesque, doll-like ﬁgure with a forced grin, dressed up in a nun’s habit. On September 3 each year during the festa the icon is carried through the streets inside a huge altarpiece, to the accompaniment of much revelry and, later, ﬁreworks. From Piazza Verdi, follow Via Matteotti up to Piazza della Rocca, a large square dominated by the ﬁerce-looking Rocca Albornoz, home of the small

| Viterbo and around

Al Melograno Strada S. Caterina T 0761.250.706, Wwww.almelograno.net. Simple rooms located just a short walk from the Terme dei Papi and the terme pubbliche. 2 B&B dei Papi Via del Ginnasio 8 T 0761.309.039, W www.bbdeipapi.it. Modern design in a fairy-tale setting. This lovely old vine-clad mansion is right in the town centre and has beautiful rooms furnished with ﬂair and ﬁlled with antiques. There’s also a suite with a canopy bed. 3

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Viterbo’s hot springs

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Accessible by local bus from the station in Piazza Martiri d’Ungheria, Viterbo’s various terme, or hot springs, are just a couple of kilometres west of the city. The #2 bus runs along the Fosso Faul gorge to the Terme dei Papi (T0761.3501, Wwww.termedei papi.it; €12, Sat & Sun €20), a spa and four-star hotel at which you can spend a very relaxing few hours lounging poolside or ﬂoating in the 40°C water. For the free public pools, stay on the bus until just before the Strada Tuscanese, where the parked cars and rising steam around the pozzi on your left-hand side signal a similar hotspot called the Piscine Carletti, where temperatures reach 58°C.

| Viterbo and around

Museo Nazionale Etrusco (Tues–Sun 8.30am–7.30pm; €6), whose archeological collection includes displays of locally unearthed Roman and Etruscan artefacts. Just off the opposite side of the square, the church of San Francesco is also worth a quick look. The high, unusually plain Gothic church is the burial place of two of Viterbo’s popes – Clement IV and Adrian V – both laid in now heavily restored, but impressive, Cosmatesque tombs on either side of the main altar.

Eating and drinking Viterbo has no shortage of cosy restaurants serving up local specialities. Enopizzeria Da Lucio Via San Pellegrino 21 T 0761.340.626. This modern wine-bar-pizzeriarestaurant set in a fourteenth-century building does excellent wood-oven pizzas and fritti. Closed Sun & Mon. Enoteca la Torre Via la Torre 5 T 0761.226.467. This long-running city-centre restaurant has always taken itself rather seriously, but with good reason – the food, in taste and presentation, is superb, and is accompanied by a great selection of local wines. Schenardi Corso Italia 11. With its regilded Art Nouveau interior, this historic café is one of the

nicest places for a lunchtime snack or tea; and it has a small menu of hot food too. Closed Wed. Tre Re Via M. Gattesco 3 T0761.304.619. This cosy place popular with locals is a good venue for trying regional specialities – the chickpea and chestnut soup is a must when in season. Closed Thurs. Wine Bar Venezia Via Maestre 4. This enoteca offers an exhaustive list of regional and national wines and a constantly changing menu made from the highest-quality seasonal products. Closed Mon, Tues & Sun.

Around Viterbo Viterbo makes by far the best base (besides Rome) for seeing much of northern Lazio, especially the places that aren’t really feasible on a day-trip from the capital. The COTRAL bus network (see box, p.684) is extensive, and, once you tune in to its eccentricities, virtually everywhere worth going to is accessible. The Mannerist villa of Bagnaia is a short distance away and easily reached on public transport, as are – from the same era – the bizarre gardens of Bomarzo and the shores of Lago di Bolsena. Bagnaia

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About 5km east of Viterbo, BAGNAIA isn’t much of a town, but like Caprarola further south (see p.687) it’s completely dominated by a sixteenth-century palace, the Villa Lante, whose small but superb estate is considered Vignola’s masterpiece and a supreme creation of Mannerist garden art. Sacheverell Sitwell pronounced it “the most lovely place of the physical beauty of nature in all Italy or in all the world”. The villa is easily visited from Viterbo using the hourly bus #6 from Piazza Martiri d’Ungheria or from the stop at the beginning of Viale Trento, or the less frequent trains of the Roma-Nord line.

Some 12km northeast of Bagnaia, the village of BOMARZO is home to another Mannerist creation, the Parco dei Mostri (daily 8.30am–1hr before sunset; €9), and a greater contrast to the former’s restrained elegance would be hard to ﬁnd. The “Monster Park” was built in 1552 by the hunchbacked Duke of Orsini, who set out to parody Mannerist self-gloriﬁcation by deliberate vulgarity. The result was like a sixteenth-century theme park of fantasy and horror, today one of northern Lazio’s primary tourist attractions. Throughout the park, there are dank, mossy sculptures of tortoises, elephants, a whale, a mad laughing mask, dragons, nymphs, butterﬂies and plenty more. Highlights include a perfect octagonal temple, dedicated to Orsini’s wife, and a crooked, slanting house that makes your head spin. Numerous cryptic inscriptions dot the park and add to the mystery. Eight buses a day run from Viterbo and six daily from Orte to Bomarzo’s Piazza Matteotti, from where the Parco dei Mostri is a signposted ten-minute walk downhill. Avoid arriving by train: the Attigliano-Bomarzo station is 5km away and no buses run to town. The site has a self-service café, bar and ample picnic tables, or else you can head back up to town to trattoria-pizzeria Da Zena on Via del Piano (T 0761.924.184; closed Tues).

| Viterbo and around

Bomarzo

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A short walk uphill from the main square, the villa is actually two buildings, built twenty years apart for different cardinals, but symmetrically aligned as part of the same architectural plan. They are closed to the public, save for one loggia, but there’s nothing much to write home about anyway; in contrast to Caprarola, it’s the gardens (Tues–Sun 8.30am–1hr before sunset; €2) that take pride of place – some of the period’s best preserved, and a summing-up of Mannerist aspirations. The main group lies behind the villas, ranged over ﬁve gently sloping terraces. An attempt at a stylized interpretation of the natural world, they were an ambitious project even by the standards of the time. The route takes in various watery adventures – waterfalls, lakes and the like – and among numerous fountains and low hedges surface plenty of humorous or symbolic touches. Look for the ubiquitous shrimp motif, symbol of the villa’s ﬁrst patron Cardinal Gambara, allegories of the four elements, and a cascade designed as an elongated crayﬁsh. The adjoining park (same hours; free), through which you can wander at will, is a popular spot for locals who lounge and read on its ample lawns.

Lago di Bolsena

North along the Via Cassia from Viterbo, LAGO DI BOLSENA is a popular destination, though rarely overcrowded; its western shore is better for camping rough, and more picturesque into the bargain. The lake occupies the remains of a broad volcanic crater and is the largest of its kind in Europe. The immensely fertile soil and super-mild microclimate spur farmers and vintners to great heights. Dante praised the quality of its eels, though ﬁshermen today are hampered by the so-called sesse – odd tide-like variations in the lake’s level. On the northern shore of the lake, BOLSENA is the main focus, a relaxed and likeable place that’s worth a brief stop. The town itself is set 1km from the water. Medieval nooks and alleyways run off the main square, Piazza Matteotti, where the deconsecrated thirteenth-century church of San Francesco occasionally hosts concerts and exhibitions. The adjacent sixteenth-century portal is the entrance to the medieval borgo, with the well-preserved thirteenth-century Monaldeschi castle perched over its western end. Inside is the local museum (summer Tues– Sun 10am–1pm & 4–8pm; winter Tues–Fri 10am–1pm & 3–6pm; €3.50), with

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| Southern Lazio • The Castelli Romani

modest displays on underwater archeology and Villanovan and Etruscan ﬁnds, plus stunning views from the ramparts. East of Piazza Matteotti, the twelfth-century basilica of Santa Cristina conceals a good Romanesque interior behind a wide Renaissance facade added in 1494. Cristina, daughter of the town’s third-century Roman prefect, was tortured by her father for her Christian beliefs, eventually being thrown into the lake with a stone round her neck. Miraculously the rock ﬂoated, though Cristina was martyred soon after. Adjoining the chapel is the Grotta di Santa Cristina, once part of early Christian catacombs (daily: summer 9.30am–noon & 3–6.30pm; winter 9.30am– noon & 3–5.30pm; €4). The closest of the campsites, most of which are a short walk out of town, is the Campeggio Internazionale il Lago, less than 1km away at Viale Cadorna 6 (T 0761.799.191, W www.campingillago.it; April–Sept). Pensione Italia, Corso Cavour 53 (T 0761.799.193, W www.pensioneitalia.it; 2 ), is a no-frills hotel. For full listings of accommodation, call in at the tourist office at Piazza Matteotti 9 (daily: summer 9.30am–12.30pm & 4.30–7.30pm; winter 9.30am–12.30pm; T 0761.799.923). There are several bars and restaurants around Piazza Matteotti, the best of which is Osteria del Borgo Dentro on Corso Cavour 5 (T 0761.797.167; closed Mon), which specializes in lake ﬁsh and has an impressive selection of locally produced cheeses. In the summer, the lakeshore’s restaurants are abuzz with activity, most offering a tourist menu. La Pineta on Viale Diaz 48 (T 0761.799.801; closed Thurs and Mon–Wed evening) serves an exquisite lake-ﬁsh menu for €39.

Southern Lazio The saying goes that the Italian South begins with the ﬁrst petrol station below Rome, and certainly there’s a radically different feel here. Green wooded hills give way to ﬂat marshy land and harsh unyielding mountains that possess a poor, almost desperate, look in places – most travellers skate straight through en route to Naples. But the coast merits a more unhurried route south – its resorts, especially Terracina and Sperlonga, are ﬁne places to take it easy after the rigours of the capital. And the Pontine Islands, a couple of hours offshore, are – out of high season, at least – among Italy’s undiscovered treasures. Inland, too, there are rewarding points to head for: the day-trip towns of the Castelli Romani; the peaceful retreat of Subiaco, set amid glorious scenery; and Cassino and its nearby abbey of Montecassino, where some of the ﬁercest ﬁghting in World War II took place.

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Just free of the sprawling southern suburbs of Rome, the sixteen towns that make up the Castelli Romani date back to pre-Roman times. These hills – the Colli Albani – have long cooled rich and powerful urbanites, who also treasure the area’s extraordinary white wines, inspired by the rich volcanic soil, and

Frascati and around

| The Castelli Romani

At just 20km from Rome, FRASCATI is the nearest of the Castelli towns and also the most striking, dominated by the majestic Villa Aldobrandini, designed by Giacomo della Porta at the turn of the sixteenth century. The Baroque palazzo is off-limits, but the gardens are open (Mon–Fri: summer 9am–1pm & 3–6pm; winter 9am–1pm & 3–5pm; free). Sadly the elaborate water theatre, where statues once played ﬂutes, is not in top form, but the view from the front terrace is superb, with Rome visible on a clear day. Frascati’s main square, Piazza Marconi, is right beneath the Aldobrandini villa, and home to a tourist office (Mon, Wed, Thurs & Sat 9am–1pm, Tues & Fri 9am–1pm & 4–7pm; T 06.942.0331). Just beyond here is the pedestrianized old centre, which revolves around the two squares of Piazza San Pietro and Piazza del Mercato just beyond. To sample rustic, local products, head to one of the stands on Piazza del Mercato or one of the town’s many fraschette (taverns) for porchetta (roast pork) sandwiches, coppiette (spicy pork jerky), and pecorino (sheep’s cheese). Frascati is also about the most famous of the Colli Albani wine towns: ask at the tourist office for details of winery tours and tastings. Of the many enotecas in town, try Grappolo d’Oro in Piazza Filzi (T 06.942.2014), where you drink and eat at long tables under stone arches, or for something more substantial, Signor T just off Piazza del Mercato at Via del Castello 8 (T 06.9724.5123, W www.signort.it; dinner only, closed Mon). For accommodation, the Pinocchio, Piazza del Mercato 21 (T 0694.17.883, W www.hotelpinocchio.it; 2 ), has affordable, stylish rooms and its restaurant specializes in porcini mushrooms, grilled meats and duck. Tusculum (always open; free), beautifully sited 5km away on a nearby hill, was an Etruscan centre overrun by Roman patricians. The Emperor Tiberius and orator Cicero both had villas here, but Pope Celestine III destroyed the resort in 1191 and the inhabitants relocated downhill, founding modern-day Frascati. Undergrowth has submerged most of the Roman remains, but there’s a small theatre, and the views, again, are ﬁne.

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the spectacular views of Lago Albano. The region is now pretty heavily built up, with most of the historic centres ringed by unprepossessing suburbs, and summer weekends see traffic jams of Romans trooping out to local trattorias. But off-peak, it’s worth the journey, either as an excursion from Rome or a stop on the way south. COTRAL buses serve the area (every 30min; 35min) from Rome’s Anagnina metro station (line A) and regular trains depart from Termini station for Frascati, Albano, Marino and Velletri.

Grottaferrata and Marino Some 3km south of Frascati, GROTTAFERRATA is also known for its wine and its eleventh-century Abbey – a fortiﬁed Basilian (Greek Orthodox) monastery surrounded by high defensive walls and a now-empty moat (daily: 9am–12.30pm & 3.30pm–1hr before sunset; free). Within the complex, the little church of Santa Maria has a Byzantine-style interior decorated with thirteenth-century mosaics and, in the chapel of St Nilo off the right aisle, frescoes by Domenichino. Through the inner courtyard there’s a small museum (closed for restoration) displaying classical and medieval sculptures. MARINO, another 4km further on, is a pleasant little town set around a pretty main square, Piazza Matteoti, where the Fontana dei Mori has mermaids and manacled Moors commemorating the Battle of Lepanto. On the ﬁrst Sunday of October the town celebrates the Sagra dell’Uva wine festival and the fountain

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spouts vino, while at other times of years you can simply sample the local wine in the village’s abundant enotecas, bars and pubs. For a vast selection of local wine and an artfully executed seasonal menu, try La Credenza restaurant at Via Cola di Rienzo 4 (T 06.938.5105; closed Sun). ROME AND L AZ I O

Castel Gandolfo

| The Castelli Romani

Leaving Marino, the road joins up with the ancient Roman Via Appia, which travels straight as an arrow down the west side of Lago Albano. CASTEL GANDOLFO is the ﬁrst signiﬁcant stop, best known as the Pope’s summer retreat – between July and September he gives sporadic midday addresses on Sundays. Four hundred metres above the lake, it’s a pleasantly airy place, and enjoys great views over Lago Albano from its terraces close by the main Piazza della Libertà, a pleasant oblong of cafés and papal souvenir shops, at the end of which is the imposing bulk of the Papal Palace itself. Below the town, there’s a pleasant lido along the lakeshore with lots of restaurants and pizzerias and a small stretch of grey beach from where you could stroll the whole shoreline in about two hours. The road leads down from the main highway, just north of Castel Gandolfo’s old centre.

Albano Laziale From Castel Gandolfo a panoramic road leads south to ALBANO LAZIALE, one of the larger and in some ways more appealing of the towns along the ancient Via Appia. Its strategic position has left it with lots of Roman remnants: a crumbled old amphitheatre, once with room for 15,000 spectators, fragments of a gate right in the town centre and the foundations of the Roman garrison’s baths behind the church of San Pietro, on the main street, Corso Matteotti. You can get the lowdown on all this in the nearby Museo Civico, Viale Risorgimento 3 (Mon, Tues & Fri–Sun 9am–1pm, Wed & Thurs 9am–1pm & 4–7pm; €2.50), which has a small but high-quality archeological collection. There are much nicer places to stay than Albano, but if you’re hungry, Antico Forno, a restaurant and wine bar on the main street at no. 30, is a good place for a light meal (T 0693.20.255; closed Sun).

Ariccia The Via Appia continues on to ARICCIA, across the nineteenth-century Ponte di Ariccia – whose Roman viaduct arches are visible below – into the town’s central piazza, a well-proportioned square that owes its appearance to Baroque master Bernini. His Pantheon-inspired church of Santa Maria dell’Assunzione sits across the Piazza della Repubblica from the massive Palazzo Chigi (guided tours Tues–Fri at 11am, 4pm, 5.30pm, Sat & Sun hourly 10.30am–12.30pm & 4–7pm, 3–6pm in winter; €7; W www.palazzochigiariccia.it), built for Pope Alexander VII. Locally, Bernini’s fame here is eclipsed by the town’s most famous food, porchetta – roast pork, which is served from 10am to midnight in fraschette, rustic taverns, clustered on Via dell’Uccelliera and Via Borgo San Rocco.

Genzano and Nemi

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GENZANO was once the seat of the Sforzas and is still dominated by the Castello Sforza-Cesarini at the top of the town, a decrepit building whose grounds now form the pleasantly bucolic Parco Sforza (daily 10am–1pm & 3pm to 1hr before sunset; free); its wooded paths and ponds give wonderful views over the Lago di Nemi. There’s also a good restaurant here, right by the castle, the Scuderia, Piazza Sforza Cesarini 1 (T 06.939.0521, closed Mon).

Palestrina

The Town

The main square, Piazza Regina Margherita, gives a chance to catch your breath and is home to the town’s Duomo, which has a copy of Michelangelo’s chunky and rather modern-looking Pietà di Palestrina in the left aisle – the original is now in Florence. Take a look also at the Area Sacra (Fri–Sun 9am to 1hr before sunset; Mon–Thurs ask at museum; free), in the corner of the square, where there are a few fragments of ancient Roman ﬂoor mosaic showing sea creatures of various kinds. The stepped streets around encourage casual strolling, but you need to save your energy for Palestrina’s real attraction, right on top of the hill, the Palazzo Barberini, which houses the Museo Nazionale Archeologico Prenestino (daily 9am–7.30pm; €3), originally built in the eleventh century and greatly modiﬁed in 1640. The palace and the terraces below were carved out of a Republican temple which previously stood on this site, and the views are magniﬁcent from the top, surveying the countryside around as far as the eye can see. Among the collection’s highlights are a number of ancient Roman pieces found locally: a torso of Fortune in slate-grey marble; the Triade Capitolina, showing Juno, Jupiter and Minerva, illegally excavated in the early 1990s and narrowly apprehended in the Stelvio Pass on its way out of the country; Etruscan funerary cistae; and, the museum’s prize possession, a marvellous ﬁrst-century-BC Mosaic of the Nile housed at the very top of the building, which traces the ﬂooding river from source to delta, chronicling everyday Egyptian life in amazing detail.

| The Castelli Romani

PALESTRINA was built on the site of the ancient Praeneste, originally an Etruscan settlement and later a favoured resort for patrician Romans. “Cool Praeneste”, as Horace called it, was the site of an enormous Temple of Fortune whose foundations more or less determine the modern centre, which steps up the hillside in a series of terraces.

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The town of NEMI, built high above the tiny crater lake, isn’t much to write home about, but it’s famous for its strawberries and its local museum (daily 9am–7pm; €2). Below the town on the lake’s northern shore, the museum contains the scant remains of two Roman pleasure boats, ﬂoating villas, built by Caligula and raised in the 1930s by Mussolini. In the last days of the German occupation in 1944 they were set on ﬁre, so what you see today are modern reconstructions of the imperial ships.

Practicalities

The bus trip from Rome takes 65 minutes (frequent departures from Ponte Mammolo on metro B), terminating at Via degli Arcioni, from where the trudge up to the town is a steep one. There’s a tourist office on Piazza Santa Maria degli Angeli (Mon–Sat 8am–7pm; T 069.573.176), and another in the Palazzo Barberini (same hours). If you decide to stay, the rather basic hotel Stella, just past the cathedral at Piazzale della Liberazione 3, is good enough (T 069.538.172, W www.hotelstella.it; 2 ), and has a decent restaurant. For fresh ﬁsh and grilled meat head to the inviting restaurant A Modo at Via Anicia 11 (T 06.9531.0035; closed Wed).

Subiaco Around 15km northeast of Palestrina, SUBIACO is beautifully set around a hill topped by the Rocca Abbazia castle, and close to Monte Liviato – one of Lazio’s premier ski resorts. Purpose-built for workmen on Nero’s grand villa (very meagre

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| The Castelli Romani

traces of which survive), Subiaco became the contemplative base of St Benedict in the ﬁfth century. The hermit dwelt in a mountain cave here for three years, before leaving to found the monastery at Montecassino (see below), but his legacy continues today in the shape of two monastic complexes just outside town. The Monastero di Santa Scolastica (daily 9.30am–12.30pm & 3.30–7pm; free) is the closer (and larger) complex, where the ﬁrst book to be printed in Italy came off the press in 1465. It’s a pleasant three-kilometre walk along the Jenne road from the main bus stop – follow the signs left before the bridge. Dedicated to Benedict’s sister, the monastery’s most notable features are its three delightful cloisters. The ﬁrst is from the Renaissance period; the second, one of the oldest Gothic works in Italy, lushly planted and fragrant; and the third a Cosmati work with lovely arcades of pillars. Fifteen minutes up the same road, the landscape grows more dramatic as it approaches the craggy Monastero di San Benedetto, nicknamed the “swallow’s nest” (same hours; free). This is the more interesting monastery: the church’s upper part has frescoes of the fourteenth-century Sienese school and ﬁfteenthcentury Perugian school and the lower levels incorporate Benedict’s cave, all raw authentic rock except for a serene statue by Raggi, a disciple of Bernini. From here a spiral staircase leads up to the chapel of San Gregorio, containing a thirteenth-century picture of St Francis that’s reckoned to be the ﬁrst portrait of the saint painted from life. In the other direction, stairs descend to the chapel where Benedict preached to shepherds, and a terrace that overlooks the so-called “Holy Rose Tree” – in fact, a three-forked bush allegedly created by St Francis from a bramble. Practicalities

Subiaco and its monasteries are a comfortable day-trip from Rome’s Ponte Mammolo station (2hr; last bus Mon–Sat 8.30pm, Sun 7.30pm). Four daily buses also service Frosinone, a transport hub, if you’re heading south to Campania. If the town’s location makes you want to linger, you can book a room at the Monastero di Santa Scolastica, which has well-appointed rooms and a restaurant; it caters to pilgrms and tourists alike (T 0774.85.569, W www.benedettini-subiaco.org; 2). The bargain Villino Michela B&B at Contrada Rapello 4, 1.5km outside town towards Fiuggi, offers a warm welcome, a lush garden, and free pick-up from Subiaco (T 0774.84.750, W www.montisimbruini.com/subiaco/villinomichela; 2 ).

Cassino and the Abbey of Montecassino

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The town of CASSINO in the southeast corner of Lazio is the site of another important monastery, the Abbazia di Montecassino (daily: summer 8.30am–12.30pm & 3.30–6.30pm; winter 8.30am–12.30pm & 3.30–5.30pm; free). Three ravens guided St Benedict to this spot, after he left Subiaco in 529. He founded one of the most important and inﬂuential Christian complexes in the world. Its monks spread the word as far away as Britain and Scandinavia, while developing the tradition of culture and learning that was at the core of the Benedictine order. Ironically, its strategically vital position, perched high on a mountaintop between Rome and Naples, was the abbey’s downfall. A succession of invaders coveted and fought over this vantage point, and the buildings were repeatedly destroyed. During World War II, the abbey came to be the lynchpin of the German presence in this part of Italy. After a battle that lasted almost six months, the Allies – a mixture of Poles, New Zealanders and Indian troops – eventually bombed it to ruins in May 1944, sacriﬁcing several thousand lives in the process. The austere

The Lazio coast to the south of Rome is a more attractive proposition than the northern stretches. Its towns have a bit more charm, the water is cleaner, and in the further reaches, beyond the ﬂats of the Pontine Marshes and Monte Circeo, the shoreline begins to pucker into cliffs and coves that hint gently at the glories of Campania – all good either for day-trips and overnight outings from the city, or for a pleasingly wayward route to Naples.

| The southern Lazio coast

The southern Lazio coast

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medieval architecture has been faithfully re-created, but it’s really more impressive for its position. Much is not open to the public, and its sterile white central courtyard is engaging only for the views of the surrounding hills and the Polish war cemetery below. The hideously ornate Baroque church has a small museum (€2) containing old manuscripts and the like. Yet you can’t help but feel that Montecassino’s glory days ended with the war. The town below was fairly comprehensively destroyed, too, and has very little appeal (except for Fiat enthusiasts, who coo over the factory). Cassino is connected by train from Rome and Frosinone, and buses leave the train station for the abbey three times daily at 9.45am, 11.45am and 3.35pm. There’s a tourist office at Via di Biasio 54 (Mon 8am–2pm, Tues–Fri 8am–2pm & 3–6pm, Sat 9am–1pm; T 0776.21.292). If you need to stay, try the central Hotel Piazza Marconi on Via Marconi 25 (T 0776.26.025, W www.hotelpiazzamarconi.it; 3 ), where the rooms are spacious and modern.

Anzio and Nettuno About 40km south of Rome, and fairly free of the pull of the capital, Anzio is worth visiting both for its beaches and its history – much of the town was damaged during a difficult Allied landing here on January 22, 1944, to which two military cemeteries (one British, another, at nearby Nettuno, American), as well as a small museum, bear testimony. It was also a favoured spot of the Roman emperor Nero, the ruins of whose villa spread along the cliffs above and even down onto the beach, which stretches north from the town centre. If you want to stay, the Del Golfo, Piazza della Pace 5 (T 06.984.6141; 2 ), is a friendly place with large, clean and simple rooms, two minutes’ walk from the beach. Anzio hosts a thriving ﬁshing ﬂeet and has some great restaurants in the harbour: La Cicala, right by the water at Riviera Zanardelli 11 (T 06.984.6747; closed Wed), has outside seating and decent food and service; or try Fiaschetta del Mare, right on the harbour, where they will bring you an endless supply of ﬁshy specialities depending on the day’s catch, for a ﬁxed price of €16 a head. Nettuno, a couple of kilometres down the coast, and walkable by the shoreline road, offers more of the same, but with slightly smaller beaches, and less clear and calm water. Again, it’s a mostly modern town, but there’s a well-preserved old quarter, still walled, with a couple of decent trattorias on the main square.

The Pontine Marshes Beyond Anzio and Nettuno lie the Pontine Marshes, until seventy-odd years ago a boggy plain prone to malaria and populated by only a few inhabitants and water buffalo. Julius Caesar hoped to drain the area, but was assassinated before he could carry out the plan. Instead Mussolini reclaimed the region in 1928 – building a series of spanking-new towns and exposing fertile, fresh farmland.

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Sermoneta

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| The southern Lazio coast

At the centre of the development lies Latina, the provincial capital, founded in 1932, and heart of the lively, local agricultural economy, though of little interest save for its transport connections and its numerous Fascist-era structures including the Palazzo “M”, a limestone building shaped like the letter M to commemorate Mussolini. Buses zigzag up to the medieval town of SERMONETA, remarkable for its walls erected to safeguard against the Saracens and later struggles between the papacy and other kingdoms, which raged throughout the Middle Ages. The well-preserved Castello Caetani (guided tours hourly Mon–Wed & Fri–Sun: April–Oct 10am–noon & 3–6pm; Nov–March 10am–noon & 2–4pm; €5) was erected in the 1200s by the feudal Caetani family. It’s a near-perfect example of the medieval system of moats, portcullises, drawbridges and tunnels designed to render the place practically impregnable. Inside, there is a huge display of arms, armour, catapults and ancient cannons, plus the vast siege cisterns and silos. To get a feel for Sermoneta, it’s worth staying over. The Ostello San Nicola, Via G. Matteotti 1 (T 0773.30.381, W www.sannicola-hostel.com; 1 ), is a thirteenth-century convent with Gothic church and fading frescoes, plus a mixture of dorm beds and private rooms, and a communal kitchen. As for restaurants, Il Simposio, Corso Garibaldi 33 (T 3392.846.905; closed Mon), specializes in hearty pastas and grilled meats; try their pasta al Trombolotto, in a medieval sauce that combines a lemon oil and fourteen herbs. From May to September, you can eat in their pergola-covered garden restaurant, Enoteca Simposio, at Via della Condutture 2. Ninfa

The ruins of NINFA, another Caetani stronghold, with enchanting gardens (April–Oct: open ﬁrst weekend and third Thurs of each month, sometimes with additional opening days – check with Latina tourist office on T 0773.695.404; 9am–noon & 2.30–6pm; guided tours only, every 15min; €8), huddle at the base of the cliff. The tranquil nook inspired the poetry of Pliny the Elder: the oasis – surrounding a temple to the nymphs – later grew into a thriving fortiﬁed village in the twelfth century. Bandits, mercenaries and malaria destroyed Ninfa, dubbed the “Pompeii of the Middle Ages”. The citizens ﬂed to Sermoneta and their ruins became the backdrop of spectacular landscaping in the early twentieth century. Wild and domestic ﬂowers, shrubs and trees ﬂourish among charming rivulets, waterfalls and ponds: the design is spontaneous, whimsical and entirely enchanting. Ninfa is difficult to reach without your own transport; alternatively, catch the train to Latina Scalo and take a taxi the remaining 8km (around €15).

Sabaudia and around The area around SABAUDIA, 20km from Latina, gives some impression of the terrain’s native sogginess, poised between two lagoons. The town was famously

The Parco Nazionale del Circeo

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Sabaudia’s pine groves, beachfront and lake, together with Monte Circeo and the offshore Zannone island, form the Parco Nazionale del Circeo. Created in 1934, this preserves something of the marshes’ wildlife and natural beauty (information at the Sabaudia and San Felice Circeo tourist ofﬁces, or at Wwww.parcocirceo.it). It’s a ﬁne spot for appreciating ﬂora and fauna as well as archeological ruins: there are over 100 sites in varying states of preservation. The park’s ofﬁce in San Felice Circeo (see opposite) can supply information and suggest hikes.

About 7km from the Torre Paola, the inland paved road rounds the mountain to emerge at SAN FELICE CIRCEO, a picturesque village of pretty stone houses bleached yellow by the sun that is split between the busy lower town and picuresque upper town. In summer, the lower town’s marina can be unpleasantly crowded, bursting with fancy motor launches and yachts, its sandy beaches crowded with bodies and roads clogged with ﬂashy cars. To escape the overpopulated sand, rent a boat at Circeo Mare, Via Ammiraglio Bergamini 124 (T 0773.549.335, W www.circeomare.it), to visit the famous Grotta della Maga Circe. Or explore on foot: take a left at the lighthouse (Faro di Torre Cervia) for the Grotto delle Capre or continue straight a few kilometres to a secluded and rocky swimming spot, also great for snorkelling. The town’s main road winds up past the upper town, eventually arriving at the summit of Monte Circeo, where there’s an ancient temple with marvellous views; there’s a large car park at the top, with a summer bar.

| The southern Lazio coast

San Felice Circeo

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built by Mussolini in just 253 days, and is known for its grid-like street pattern and typically fascist buildings. Architectural highlights include the austere rationaliststyle town hall tower, the mosaics of SS Annunziata church and the quirky, asymmetrical post office. The tourist office is at Piazza del Comune 18 (daily 9.15am–12.30pm & 4–8pm; T 0773.515.046). COTRAL buses stop in Piazza Oberdan, from where it is a ten-minute walk to the bridge that leads from Sabaudia across the lagoon to the coast where the beaches are unspoilt and empty, except during high season. Although there are plenty of beachfront properties, there are still some places to access the sand, and parking spaces alongside. The road cuts through the dunes between the sea and the coastal lakes to the crumbling sixteenth-century Torre Paola above which rises the huge bulk of Monte Circeo to the south. Sabaudia is populated with campsites and inexpensive hotels, and there’s an atmospheric B&B nearby, 1.5km from the Torre Paola – Bahia di Buzios, in a verdant glade, two minutes from the sea at Via delle Querce 18 (T 0773.596.815, W www.bahiadibuzios.it; 2 ).

Practicalities

Buses arrive in the lower town from Via Domenichelli and depart for Rome Laurentina, Latina, Sabaudia and Terracina. A local minibus service connects the lower town to the historical centre above. Just off the town’s main Piazza Vittorio Veneto, Piazza Lanzuisi is home to a tourist office (daily: summer 9am–1pm & 5–8pm; winter 8am–2pm; T 0773.549.038) that also serves as an office for the Monte Circeo park (see box opposite). Most of San Felice’s accommodation is in the lower town, but you can nab a half-board room with sea views in the upper town at B&B Giardino degli Ulivi, Via XXIV Maggio 13 (T 0773.548.034, W www.giardinodegliulivi.eu; 2 ). Locals crowd together here for ample dinners in the vine-covered courtyard. The smart and stylish Claro de Lua at Via del Sole 9 (T 0773.548.425, W www.clarodelua .it; 3 ), has lovely rooms looking across the sea to the Pontine Islands and does candlelit barbecues in a panoramic gazebo. For good seafood, try the trattoria Il Grottino, backing onto the upper town’s Piazza Vittorio Veneto (T 0773.548.446; closed Tues); their gnochetti alla pescatora are delicious. Terracina

A further 15km down the coast from San Felice (buses from Rome Laurentina; stops in Sabaudia and San Felice Circeo), TERRACINA is an immediately

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| The southern Lazio coast

likeable little town, divided between a tumbledown old quarter high on the hill and a lively newer area by the sea. During classical times, it was an important staging-post on the Appian Way, which meets the ocean here; nowadays it’s primarily a seaside resort with good, ample beaches and frequent connections with the other points of interest, including daily ferries (T 0773.790.055, W www .snapnavigazione.it) and hydrofoils (T 081.552.0763, W www.navlib.it) to Ponza (see p.702). Apart from the scrubby oval of sand fringing the centre, Terracina’s beaches stretch west pretty much indeﬁnitely from the main harbour and are large enough to be uncrowded. The centre of the old quarter is Piazza Municipio, which occupies the site of the Roman forum – complete with the original steps and slabs – and now focuses on the colonnade of the town’s Duomo, with its elegant campanile. An endearing church with a ﬁne mosaic ﬂoor and a beautiful tile-studded pulpit and twisted mosaic candlestick, it was built within the shell of a Roman temple dedicated to the gods Augustus and Roma. Also on the square, the Museo Civico Pio Capponi (Tues–Sat 9am–1.30pm & 3–8pm, Sun 10am–1pm & 5–9pm; €1.55) has ﬁnds from the Roman town. Terracina’s main attraction, though, is the Temple of Jupiter Anxur, which crowns the hill. Take the steps up from Piazza Municipio onto Via Anxur and follow this for 200m, from where a road winds to the top (30min). You can also take the hourly bus #L from Via Roma or Piazzale Marconi. The temple may date back to the ﬁrst century BC and was connected to Terracina by some lengthy walls; these days it’s an impressive if rather ruinous complex, with tremendous views both ways up the coast. You can walk right through the vaulted arches of the temple and scramble around among the remains of the acropolis, ﬁnishing off with a coffee in the temple’s café. Practicalities

The tourist office is ﬁve minutes’ walk from the sea in the new part of town, just off Via G. Leopardi, in the park behind Piazza Mazzini (summer Mon–Sat 9am–1pm & 5–8pm, Sun 9am–1pm; winter Mon, Wed & Fri 9am–1pm, Tues & Thurs 9am–1pm & 3–6pm; T 0773.727.759). One of the best places to stay is Lungomare 116 in the old town at Lungomare Circe 116 (T 0773.764.110, W www .lungomare116.it; 3 ), with minimalist rooms in a villa on the sea. Their restaurant is popular with chic locals who are attracted by a menu that constantly changes depending on the day’s catch. Otherwise, in the upper town, the A Enoteca St Patrick, Corso A. Garibaldi 56 (T 0773.703.170), serves delicious plates of cheese and cold cuts, as well as pasta and other hot dishes, washed down with great local wines, in a relaxed and buzzy atmosphere. In the lower town, Da Pino, Piazza della Repubblica 41, is more basic but serves up superb Neapolitanstyle pizzas (T 0773.702.352; closed Thurs). Sperlonga

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The coast south of Terracina is probably Lazio’s prettiest stretch, the cliff punctured by tiny beaches signposted enticingly from the road. SPERLONGA, built high on a rocky promontory, is a fashionable spot for Roman and Neapolitan families, its whitewashed houses, arched alleys and stepped narrow streets almost Moorish in feel. Both the old upper town and modern lower district are almost given over entirely to tourists during summer, but it’s still a pleasant place, and cars are not allowed into the old centre. A couple of kilometres south, the remains of the Villa of Tiberius (daily 8.30am–7.30pm; €4) are the only real sight of note and well worth the walk along the beach – head south from the

Practicalities

| The southern Lazio coast

The nearest train station is Fondi-Sperlonga, 8km away, where there are infrequent buses into town. Certiﬁed taxis cost €6.50 per person (illegal drivers will negotiate) wait in front of the station. COTRAL buses run from Formia, Gaeta, and Terracina with stops along Via Cristoforo Colombo in the lower town. The tourist offices are at Via del Porto, the road that winds round the headland to the left of the main beach (daily 8am–8pm; T 0771.557.341) and Via del Corso 25 (same hours). The modern Grazia hotel at Via M.A. Colonna 8 (T 0771.548.223, W www .hotelgrazia.com; 4 ), a block from the beach at the northern end of the beachfront strip, is a good choice with modern rooms. If you want to be up in the old town, Corallo, just off Piazza della Repubblica at Corso S. Leone 3 (T 0771.548.060, W www.corallohotel.net; 5 ), has all mod cons and some rooms have panoramic balconies. Another possibility is the many rooms and apartments rented during peak season; ask at the tourist office. Laocoonte Da Rocco at Via Cristoforo Colombo 4 is the best restaurant in the lower town (T 0771.548.122; closed Mon), serving excellent ﬁsh dishes on a patio overlooking the sea. Tropical, Via C. Colombo 19 (T 0771.549.621; closed Mon), does pizzas and has a bar. Or, for down-to-earth pasta with seafood and Neapolitan-style pizza, head to L’Angolo (T 0771.548.808; closed Tues), on the sandy southern beach.

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town and turn off at the stone path after Lido Le Chiuse beach club. There’s a small and extremely engaging museum with ﬁnds from the villa and its attached grotto, the setting for imperial banquets. The villa is right by the beach, and you can stroll around the excavations, as well as walking into the cave where ﬁsh still dart about Tiberius’s ﬁshpond. There are beaches either side of Sperlonga’s headland, but a lot of space is private.

Formia and Gaeta

Some 20km around the bay from Sperlonga, hard under the glowering backdrop of the Monti Aurunci, lies FORMIA. This largely modern town was an important resort during Roman times. Formia is a place for a stopover rather than a stay, with plentiful train connections to Naples, Rome and Cassino, and regular ferries and hydrofoils to Ponza (see p.702). There is a tourist office at Viale Unita d’Italia 30–34 (summer Mon–Sat 9am–1pm & 5–8pm, Sun 9am–1pm; winter Mon, Wed, Fri & Sat 9am–1pm, Tues & Thurs 9am–1pm & 3–6pm; T 0771.771.490), with information on ferry departures. If you are stranded here, the Hotel del Golfo, Piazzale della Stazione 1 (T 0771.790.037; 2 ), is the town’s cheapest hotel, and convenient if you are coming in on the train. In the centre, a great choice for food is Chinappi, Via Anﬁteatro 8 (T 0771790.002, W www.chinappi.it; closed Thurs), a legendary family-run restaurant that turns out creative twists on traditional laziale and campano dishes. The towers, cliffs and fortiﬁcations of GAETA, 5km southwest, glow golden at sunset – a ﬁne sight for motorists stuck in the inevitable A1 traffic jam here. Once a marine republic and last bastion of the Bourbons, the city now teems with American servicemen from a base near here. Burgers and beer dominate the lively port, but Gaeta has an atmospheric medieval quarter too, dominated by a stocky cliff-side castle. Behind the gothic church, SS Annuziata, lies the chapel of the Golden Grotto with its shimmering gilded barrel vault and alleged handprint of the Minotaur. COTRAL buses for Gaeta leave from in front of Formia’s train station; others arrive from Terracina and Sperlonga.

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The Pontine Islands ROME AND L AZ I O

Scattered across the sea between Rome and Naples, these islands are some of Italy’s least known to foreign travellers. Volcanic in origin, only two are inhabited: Ventotene and Ponza. The latter bustles with Italian tourists, especially Romans, between mid-June and the end of August; at any other time, the island is yours for the asking.

Ponza

| The Pontine Islands

The group’s main island, PONZA, is only 8km long and 2km across at its widest point. Beautiful Ponza town is heaped around the bay in a series of neat, pastelcoloured pyramids, its ﬂat-roofed houses radiating out from the pink semicircle that curls around the ﬁshing harbour. Arrival, information and accommodation

Formia has year-round services to Ponza, as does Terracina. There are summer connections from Anzio, as well as from Naples (for frequencies and journey times see p.704). There are also daily crossings between Ponza and Ventotene. Buses connect the port with other points on the island roughly hourly. The tourist office on Via Molo Musco in Ponza town (daily 9am–1pm & 3–7pm; T 0771.80.031) has maps and accommodation lists. You will be accosted with offers of rooms (cheaper than hotels) as soon as you get off the ferry. A fair price is around the €40–50 mark per person; always insist on seeing the room ﬁrst. You might also try the helpful people at TuristCasa, Via Roma 2 (T 0771.809.886, W www.turistcasa.it), who rent out rooms and apartments year-round. Rooms and hotels Casa Simonetta Via Calacaparra T0771.808.512, Wwww.casasimonetta.com. A reasonable choice with tidy rooms in the northern part of the island. 2 Gennarino al Mare Via Dante 64 T0771.80.071, W www.gennarinoamare.com. Next to the town beach, this sky-blue hotel – great for a splurge – nestles on a dock. All the rooms have elegant decor, private wrought-iron balconies and great seascape views. 7

Ortensia T 0771.808.922, Wwww.hotelortensia. it. The best and most convenient option in Le Forna is this serene and chic hotel, with its own restaurant. 4 Pensione Silvia Via Marina T0771.80.075. The cheapest hotel in town, this pensione is 200m through the spooky Roman tunnel on the Santa Maria waterfront – a cheerful golden structure presiding over row-boat-strewn sands. Closed Oct–April. 3

The island

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Ponza town makes a marvellous place to rest up for a few days, having so far escaped the clutches of designer boutiques and souvenir shops. Although the island lacks speciﬁc sights, Ponza is great for aimless wanderings; in the early evening, locals parade along the yellow-painted Municipio arcade of shops and cafés. For lazing and swimming, there’s a small, clean cove in the town and the Chiaia di Luna beach, a ten-minute walk away, across the island. A slender rim of sand edges the sheer sickle cliff – though be warned that the waves here are much choppier than on the sheltered side facing the mainland, and the beach is intermittently closed for safety reasons. You can rent scooters along Ponza town’s harbour. The only other real settlement on the island is Le Forna, a wide green bay dotted with huddles of houses. The beach here is small and grubby, so follow the path down from the road, around the bay to the rocks: the water of the so-called Piscina Naturale is lovely and clear, perfect for sheltered swimming

Eating and drinking

Ventotene

| Travel details

For food, you’re spoilt for choice: Ponza town has plenty of restaurants and most are good, although none are especially cheap. Gennarino al Mare (see opposite) has a good restaurant, or try Ippocampo, in Piazzale Pisacane 7 (T 0771.809.852; closed Nov–Easter), which does good pasta and ﬁsh. Alternatively, feast on exquisite ﬁsh dishes at the upmarket Orestorante overlooking the harbour at Via Dietro la Chiesa 3 (T 0711.80338; dinner only; closed Nov–Easter).

ROME AND L AZ I O

when the ﬁshing boats have ﬁnished for the day. The settlement straggles on from Le Forna towards the sharp northern end of the island, where the road ends abruptly and a steep stony path (to the right) leads down to more rocks where you can swim. For really secluded sea frolicking, rent a boat for the day from the Spiaggia di Sant’Antonio in Ponza town (€60–100) and take your time circumnavigating the island and exploring its remote coves. The Cooperativa Barcaioli Ponzesi (T 0771.809.929, W www.barcaioliponza.it) offers trips around the island and excursions to uninhabited Palmarola and Zannone from €20 per person.

The only other inhabited Pontine island, VENTOTENE is situated a fair way south: ﬂatter, smaller and drabber than Ponza, it has reddish-brown soil dotted with cacti and shrubs. Roman politicians exiled embarrassing wives and daughters here. The single town – village really – has a population of around ﬁve hundred, and its dusty piazza is home to a museum displaying ﬁnds from an imperial-era villa, remains of which blanket the headland to the left of the village. On the other side, there’s a small beach of grey volcanic sand. At the port, you can take a boat (€10 return) to the small island of Santo Stefano, which used to house a dramatic horseshoe-shaped prison, designed by Carpi in the eighteenth century. You can get to Ventotene from Formia or Anzio (for frequencies and journey times, see p.704). Although it makes a nice stop on a leisurely route to Naples, Ventotene is unlikely to detain anyone long. However, if you decide to linger, there are a couple of places renting out rooms and an absolutely delightful familyrun hotel, A Agave e Ginestra on Via Calabattaglia 10/12 (T 0771.85.290, W www .ventotene.net; 5 ), with simple, clean rooms and terriﬁc sea views. Eat either at the hotel or Il Giardino di Sportiello at Via degli Ulivi 45 (T 0771.85.020; closed Tues lunch), where the limited menu is carefully chosen based on the day’s catch.

Travel details Trains Rome (Termini) to: Ancona (hourly; 4hr); Anzio/Nettuno (hourly; 1hr); Bologna (at least 2/hr; 2hr); Civitavecchia* (at least 2/hr; 1hr 10min); Florence (at least 2/hr; 1hr 30min); Formia (at least 2/hr; 1hr 25min); Latina (at least 2/hr; 35min); Milan (at least hourly; 3hr 30min); Naples (at least 2/hr; 2hr); Pescara (6 daily; 4hr); Tarquinia* (12 daily; 1hr 20min). Rome (Ostiense) to: Bracciano (every 30min; 1hr); Viterbo* (hourly, 1hr 40min).

Rome (Roma-Nord line from Piazzale Flaminio) to: Viterbo (5 daily; 2hr 45min). * Trains also run from Rome Trastevere and Roma San Pietro.

Buses Latina to: Sermoneta (4–6 daily; 50min). Rome (Anagnina) to: Palestrina (every 45min; 1hr). Rome (Laurentina) to: Sabaudia (10 daily; 1hr 40min); San Felice (10 daily; 2hr); Terracina (10 daily; 2hr 15min).

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| Travel details 704

Rome (Ponte Mammolo) to: Palestrina (12 daily; 55min); Subiaco (hourly; 1hr 15min); Tivoli (every 15min; 50min). Rome (Saxa Rubra) to: Viterbo (every 30min; 1hr 30min). Rome (Cornelia) to: Cerveteri (every 40min; 1hr 10min); Civitavecchia (every 30min; 1hr 35min). Terracina to: Formia (18 daily; 1hr); Sabaudia (9 daily; 35min); San Felice Circeo (18 daily; 15min); Sperlonga (12 daily; 40min). Viterbo to: Bagnaia (hourly; 20min); Bomarzo (6 daily; 30min); Caprarola (6 daily; 40min); Civitavecchia (5 daily; 1hr 25min); Tarquinia (9 daily; 1hr).

Ferries See Wwww.vetor.it, www.caremar.it, www.navlib.it, www.traghettilines.it and www.snav.it for schedules.

Anzio to: Ponza (12 daily; 1hr 45min). Civitavecchia to: Cágliari (1 daily; 14hr 30min); Olbia (2 daily; 8–10hr). Formia to: Ponza (2 daily; 2hr 15min); Ventotene (2 daily; 2hr). Naples to Ponza (14 weekly; 2hr 50min); Ventotene (14 weekly; 1 hr 50min). Terracina to: Ponza (1–3 daily; 50min; W www .snapnavigazione.it).

Hydrofoils Anzio to: Ponza (2–4 daily June–Sept; 1hr 10min); Ventotene (2 daily; 55min). Formia to: Ponza (1–3 daily; 1hr 10min); Ventotene (1–2 daily; 55min). Ponza to: Ventotene (1–2 daily except Tues; 55min).

Italian football Calcio – football, or soccer – is Italy’s national sport, and enjoys a massive following across the country. It’s usually easy enough to get tickets to see one of the big teams – as long as they’re not playing each other – and going to see a game is one of the most exciting introductions to modern Italian culture you’ll ﬁnd.

The history

Inter fans celebrate their scudetto win A Juventus–AC Milan clash

Milan celebrates an Inter victory

Italy’s ﬁrst football club, Genoa, was created by a group of English expats who also set up the country’s ﬁrst league with three clubs from Turin in 1898. Genoa regularly won the championship in the early years of the twentieth century, although the ﬁrst national league, formed in 1929, was won by Internazionale of Milan. Since World War II, Italian football has been dominated by Internazionale, AC Milan and Juventus (Turin), who have between them won the scudetto or Serie A (Italy’s premier division) 54 times. It’s a testament to the English origins of the game that AC Milan, as well as Genoa, continue to use anglicized names, and to sport the cross of St George in their insignia. Unfortunately, hooliganism remains a problem in Italian football, and led to the death of a policeman at a Catania game in February 2007. Racism is also an issue, with some players abused so badly that their clubs have been forced to play matches behind closed doors. And the country still hasn’t forgotten the match-ﬁxing scandal of 2006 (nicknamed “Calciopoli”), when the Italian national team triumphed at the World Cup but domestic football was in crisis, with Juventus and a number of other top clubs given stiff penalties for corruption.

The teams Juventus, AC Milan and Internazionale remain at the the top, but Inter has been dominant since the scandals, winning the scudetto four years running. The two Rome clubs, AS Roma and to a lesser extent SS Lazio, do well, although Lazio’s star has faded in recent years, and their fans are perceived as one of the worst examples of Italy’s right-wing lunatic fringe. Elsewhere, Venezia was once a

contender but has been consigned to the lower divisions after falling foul of a match-ﬁxing scandal. Chievo Verona and Udinese remain unfashionable but strong and stable clubs. In Tuscany, Fiorentina reckon themselves among the big teams, while Emilia-Romagna’s big club, Parma, have declined since their heyday in the 1990s but are at least back in Serie A. Further south, Napoli are beginning to relive their Eighties glory days, when they were led by Diego Maradona, although they still struggle to ﬁll their 80,000 capacity stadium. Conversely, the other big southern clubs, Palermo and Catania of Sicily, and Cagliari of Sardinia, are thriving in Serie A. You can read more about Italian football, including how to get tickets, at W www .footballitaliano.co.uk or www.football -italia.net. For Serie A packages, see W www.fanfare-events.com or www.ticka zilla.com. Once in Italy, grab a paper and see what’s on; the Gazzetta dello Sport is the best reference.

AS Roma feel the pressure Palermo take on Cagliari

Talking football Italy’s newspapers are relatively light on sports coverage, but if you speak a bit of Italian it can be worth getting hold of one of the three big daily sports papers: Gazzetta dello Sport, Tuttosport or Corriere dello Sport. Some basic footballing vocabulary is below. corner angolo foul fallo goalkeeper portiere manager allenatore match partita midﬁelder centrocampista offside fuorigioco pitch campo referee arbitro

Messina fans

Going to a game

Inter Milan fans in the Curva Sud Claudio Gentile, 1982

Fabio Cannavaro lifts the World Cup, 2006

Going to see one of the top teams, especially AC or Inter Milan at the San Siro, or Juventus (currently playing at Turin’s Stadio Olimpico while their ground is rebuilt), may be one of the highlights of your trip. And because of the number of teams – both professional and semi-pro – there’s always likely to be a game on close to where you’re staying. Serie A games are played on Sunday afternoons, though there are also evening kick-offs on Saturday and Sunday, while most Serie B games take place on Saturday afternoons, with evening games on Friday and Monday. Serie A tickets cost €15–20 for seats in the curva (end) stands, although these are usually snapped up by diehard tifosi. The corner seats, or distinti, cost €25 or so, while seats in the tribuna (side stands) can cost €50–100. Most clubs sell tickets online, but many also have shops in city centres; alternatively, buy tickets at the stadium. Regulations are tight: be sure to have ID with you. For sustenance during the match, try borghetti – vials of cold coffee with a stiff spirit added.

Italian dream team Italy has produced some of the world’s ﬁnest footballers. Here’s our ultimate selection of masters past and present: goalkeeper Dino Zoff (Juventus) defenders Claudio Gentile (Juventus), Fabio Cannavaro (Juventus), Giacinto Facchetti (Inter), Paolo Maldini (Milan), Franco Baresi (Milan) midﬁelders Gianni Rivera (Milan), Marco Tardelli (Juventus) forwards Roberto Baggio (Juventus), Luigi Riva (Cagliari), Sandro Mazzola (Inter)

I ABRUZ Z O AND M OL I S E

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Highlights

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Corno Grande Hike in the wild and craggy Gran Sasso massif, out of which rises Italy’s highest peak, the Corno Grande. See p.712

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Parco Nazionale d’Abruzzo Get back to nature in this lovely park, which has around one hundred indigenous species of fauna and ﬂora. See p.717

| Highlights

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Museo delle Genti d’Abruzzo, Pescara Poetry and intricately carved objects bear witness to the industry of Abruzzo’s shepherds. See p.721

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Museo Archeologico, Chieti Head here for the best and

most comprehensive display of Abruzzese antiquities, including the unique Capestrano warrior. See p.724

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Bull race at Ururi The ordinary town of Ururi turns into a scene of frenetic activity once a year as horses, bulls and carts career through the streets. See p.726

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Saepinum This enchanting archeological site in rural Sepino is a throwback to the original Grand Tour, with overgrown Roman ruins dotted with inhabited dwellings. See p.728

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The Gran Sasso massif

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bruzzo and Molise, one region until 1963, together make Italy’s transition from north to south. Both are sparsely populated mountainous regions prone to earthquakes, and both have been outside the mainstream of Italian affairs since the Middle Ages. In April 2009 Abruzzo hit the international headlines as a massive earthquake struck, with its epicentre in L’Aquila, the regional capital, virtually destroying the city, killing over 300 people and leaving 65,000 homeless. In spite of the widespread destruction, L’Aquila is slowly being pieced back together again, and these two little-visited regions continue to be among the few areas of Italy where there is still plenty to discover. Bordered by the Apennines, Abruzzo holds some of Italy’s wildest terrain: silent valleys, abandoned hill-villages and vast untamed mountain plains, once roamed by wolves, bears and chamois. The Abruzzesi have done much to pull their region out of the poverty trap, developing resorts on the long, sandy Adriatic coastline and exploiting the tourist potential of a large, mountainous national park and some great historic towns. Following the earthquake, Sulmona, to the southeast, may be the most logical base. L’Aquila, at the foot of Gran Sasso – the Apennines’ highest peak – is still worth a visit, and though it’s an unsettling experience wandering scaffolding-lined streets patrolled by the guards of the Protezione Civile, several sights have reopened, and a new museum is set to open, where exhibits rescued from the partially destroyed museum and churches will be on display. The rising stars of Abruzzo are the hill-villages around L’Aquila, deeply rural places, where time seems to have stopped somewhere in the ﬁfteenth century, whose traditions, cuisine and architecture are only now coming to be appreciated. South of Sulmona, in Scanno elderly women wear costumes that originated in Asia Minor, and make intricate lace on cylindrical cushions known as tomboli. Just down the road, the scruffy hill-village of Cocullo hosts one of Europe’s most bizarre religious festivals, in which a statue of the local saint is draped with live snakes before being paraded through the streets. The main resort on the Abruzzo coast is Pescara, departure port for ferries to Croatia and a good base for excursions inland to Chieti, home to an excellent archeological museum. However the best spot for a sun-and-sand break is further south at Vasto, with its gently shelving sandy beach and lively old centre. Gentler, less rugged and somewhat poorer than Abruzzo, Molise has more in common with southern than central Italy. Much of the region still seems to be struggling out of its past, its towns and villages victims of either economic neglect or hurried modern development. The cities, Isernia and Campobasso, victims themselves of earlier earthquakes, are large and bland, with small historical centres, but Molise has its compensations: a scattering of low-key Roman ruins – most interestingly at Saepinum, a quintessential Roman provincial town and a site that’s

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Abruzzo and Molise

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Ancona

UMBRIA

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M.Gallinola

CAMPANIA (1923m) Naples

still well off the tourist track. Wandering among the ruins, and looking out over the green ﬁelds to the mountains beyond, you get some inkling of how Italy’s ﬁrst Grand Tourists must have felt. A less-reﬁned but equally interesting attraction takes place in the village of Ururi, settled by Albanian refugees in the ﬁfteenth century, where the annual chariot race is as barbaric as anything the Romans dreamed up. Finally there’s the sheer physical aspect of the place. Forty percent of Molise is covered by mountains, and although they are less dramatic than Abruzzo’s, there are masses of possibilities for hiking. Visitors are also starting to explore the area’s ancient sheep-droving routes, known as tratturi, which are gaining new life as mountain-bike or horseback-riding trails, served by occasional farmhouse guesthouses and riding stables along the way. Don’t expect to rush through Abruzzo and Molise if you’re relying on public transport; in both regions, getting around on bus and train demands patience and the careful studying of timetables (W www.arpaonline.it in Abruzzo; in Molise at W www.viaggiomolise.it).

L’Aquila 708

Until April 6, 2009, L’AQUILA was Abruzzo’s main cultural attraction. An ancient university town overlooked by the bulk of Gran Sasso, it was founded in 1242, when the Holy Roman Emperor Frederick II legendarily drew together the populations from 99 of Abruzzo’s villages to form a new city. Each village built its

Following the Protezione Civile route that has been created through town, you can visit the Castello on the northeast edge of the historic centre, built by the Spanish in the sixteenth century to keep the locals under control, and home, until the earthquake, of the Museo Nazionale d’Abruzzo (see box, p.711). From here you can follow the route to the church of San Bernardino. The church is closed, but the sumptuous facade, with three magniﬁcent white tiers bedecked with classical columns, is visible. The route continues down to Piazza del Duomo, once the scene of a bustling daily market, now home to tents belonging to civic advisory bodies. The Duomo itself is boxed in wood. From here, the route follows Corso Federico II south, and then east to Santa Maria

| L’Aquila

The City

ABRUZ Z O AND M OL I S E

own church, piazza and quarter, and one of the city’s most-loved (and surviving) sights is a medieval fountain with 99 spouts. Since the earthquake, much of L’Aquila’s centro storico has been out of bounds, and the city is rigorously monitored by the Protezione Civile and other forces of order, but it’s still possible to visit. Buses and trains still run here, while several hotels, B&Bs and restaurants have reopened (with more opening all the time) to serve the 20,000-plus workers who have poured into the area to build new houses on the outskirts, and to restore the ancient buildings in the city centre. Naturally things are changing rapidly, but at the time of writing, the Protezione Civile had created a route through the historic centre (partly through tunnels) which is considered safe. In the unlikely event that you decide to stay, the extremely helpful tourist office (see p.711), housed in a container outside the rugby stadium, will be able to advise on the best places to stay and eat, and whether any more of the city’s monuments are accessible.

Regional food and wine Abruzzo and Molise are mountainous regions where agriculture is difﬁcult and sheepfarming dominates. Consequently, lamb tends to feature strongly in the local cuisine. You’ll come across abbacchio, unweaned baby lamb that is usually cut into chunks and roasted or grilled; arrosticini, tiny pieces of lamb skewered and ﬂame grilled; and intingolo di castrato, lamb cooked as a casserole with tomatoes, wine, herbs, onion and celery. In Abruzzo, a crucial ingredient is olive oil, a product that has gained international acclaim in recent years. Around Sulmona aglio rosso (red garlic) is believed by many locals to be a cure for ailments ranging from neuralgia to arthritis; around L’Aquila in particular saffron (zafferano) is also found widely in sweet and savoury dishes, grown in ﬁelds southeast of the city. Probably Abruzzo’s most famous dish is maccheroni alla chitarra, made by pressing a sheet of pasta over a wooden frame, and usually served with a tomato or lamb sauce. Cheese tends to be pecorino – either mature and grainy like parmesan, or still mild, soft and milky. The wines of Molise are rarely found outside the region. The most interesting is the Biferno DOC, which can be red, white, or rosato. The best-known wine of Abruzzo is Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, a heavy red made from the Montepulciano grape with up to 15 percent Sangiovese. Pecorino, a local varietal and DOC, produces a fresh and mineral white. One of Italy’s most important wine events, Cantine Aperte (“open cellars”) was born in Abruzzo and takes place the last weekend in May. Hundreds of producers open their doors to enthusiasts for free tastings and gastronomic events (Wwww.movimentoturismovino.it).

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| L’Aquila 710

di Collemaggio (daily 8.30am–noon & 3–6pm, but subject to change; free), its massive rectangular bulk faced with a geometric jigsaw of pink and white stone. It was founded in the thirteenth century by Pietro of Morrone, a hermit unwillingly dragged from his mountain retreat to be made pope by power-hungry cardinals who reckoned he would be easy to manipulate. When he turned out to be too naive even for the uses of the cardinals, he was forced to resign and was posthumously compensated for the ordeal by being canonized. Finally, close to the train station, is L’Aquila’s famous Fontana delle 99 Cannelle, tucked behind the medieval Porta della Riviera (currently boxed in wood). Set around three sides of a sunken piazza, each water spout is a symbol of one of the villages that formed the city. This constant supply of fresh water sustained the Aquilani through plagues, earthquakes and sieges, and was used for washing clothes until after the war.

Practicalities L’Aquila’s train station is to the west of the centre, a short walk from the Fontana delle 99 Cannelle. Long-distance buses arrive at the Collemaggio terminal near

The 2009 earthquake At 3.32am on the morning of Monday, April 6, 2009, an earthquake of 5.8 on the Richter scale rocked central Italy. The shocks were felt as far as Rome and Campania, but the epicentre was L’Aquila, the regional capital of Abruzzo. Built on the bed of an ancient lake, the geological structure of the terrain ampliﬁed the seismic waves. The city has a history of earthquakes, the worst being in 1703 when 5000 people were killed, and the city virtually ﬂattened. This time, thousands of buildings in the city were badly damaged, and some surrounding villages, such as Onna, which lost 38 of its 351 inhabitants, was virtually destroyed. However, nearby medieval hill-villages survived virtually untouched, and it is clear that much of the damage and many of the deaths were due to shoddy building standards; an ofﬁcial of the Protezione Civile commented that in California an earthquake on this scale would have killed no one. In all, 308 people died, and over 65,000 were made homeless; 40,000 people were evacuated to tented camps, prompting Prime Minister Berlusconi to make his infamous comment that the earthquake victims should cheer up and consider themselves on a camping weekend. Others were housed in hotels along the coast, or went to stay with relatives. The scale of the project to rehouse the victims is hard to imagine. All around L’Aquila new estates of houses, mobile homes, wooden cabins and prefabs are springing up – including 19 estates of C.A.S.E, sustainable, ecofriendly, anti-seismic houses – though there are understandable suspicions that a large percentage of the money available for building contracts has ended up in the hands of the Maﬁa. On December 24, 2009, eight months after the earthquake, Christmas Eve Mass was held in the stunning thirteenth-century basilica of Santa Maria di Collemaggio, which lies just outside the city’s walls. The intricate pink-and-white inlaid facade was still boxed in wood, and the roof was made of plexiglass, but the opening of the church – the city’s most famous – seemed a clear sign that life was going on. Meanwhile, the less glamorous task of clearing four million tonnes of rubble from the centre of the town was left untouched. Finally the people of L’Aquila decided to take things into their own hands, and in February 2010 locals organized a series of “wheelbarrow Sundays”, descending in their thousands to L’Aquila, to make the point that if the will was there, the work could be done. Though initially ridiculed by politicians, in May 2010 the ofﬁcial operation to clear L’Aquila began in earnest. Adding fuel to the criticisms of the way the crisis has been handled, Sabina Guzzanti’s low-budget, satirical ﬁlm Draquila: Italy Trembles received a Special Screening at Cannes in May 2010.

L’Aquila’s treasures

| L’Aquila

Porta Bazzano. The tourist office (Mon & Wed 9am–1pm, Tues, Thurs & Fri 9am–1pm & 3–6pm, may open Sat in the summer; T 0862.410.808, W www .abruzzoturismo.it) is in a container to the west of the city in the suburb of Acquasanta, at Parcheggio Stadio Rugby, a car park near the rugby stadium and the cemetery. Take bus #5 or #8 from the train station, or any bus going to the cemetery from the bus station. The staff are enthusiastic and efficient, and have up-to-date information on places to stay and restaurants, as well as accessible sights. One happy survivor of the earthquake is La Cantina del Boss at Via Castello 3, a wine bar with a good selection of local and national wines.

ABRUZ Z O AND M OL I S E

The entire collection of the Museo Nazionale d’Abruzzo, previously in the city’s Castello, is now held for safe keeping at the Museo di Preistoria Le Palude at Celano, 50km west of L’Aquila, close to the Celano exit of the Rome–Pescara autostrada. If you want to see the collection, call in advance to make an appointment (T0863.790.357) and the director will show you around. The objects will remain here until a new temporary museum, in an ex-slaughterhouse near the Fontana delle 99 Cannelle opens, possibly as early as spring 2011. For up-to-date information on the progress of the museum, contact L’Aquila’s very helpful tourist ofﬁce (see below).

Parco Nazionale del Gran Sasso Whether you approach Abruzzo from Le Marche in the north or Rome in the west, your arrival will be signalled by the spectacular bulk of the Gran Sasso massif, containing by far the highest of the Apennine peaks as well as a national park (W www.gransassolagapark.it) with hiking trails. If you come by autostrada from Le Marche, you’ll actually travel underneath the mountains, through a ten-kilometre tunnel, passing the entrance to a particle-physics research laboratory bored into the very heart of the mountain range. The massif itself consists of two parallel chains, ﬂanking the Campo Imperatore plain that stretches for 27km at over 2000m above sea level. Fonte Cerreto

FONTE CERRETO is the gateway to the Gran Sasso park. It consists of little more than a few hotels, a restaurant and a campsite clustered around a cable-car station. Most of these were built in the 1930s as part of Mussolini’s scheme to keep Italians ﬁt by encouraging them to take exercise in the mountains. Ironically, he was imprisoned here in 1943, ﬁrst at the Villetta inn (now the Fior di Gigli), and then at the Ostello Campo Imperatore, a grim hotel at the top of the cable-car route. Il Duce supposedly spent his days at the hotel on a diet of eggs, rice, boiled onions and grapes, contemplating suicide. Hitler came to his rescue, dispatching an ace pilot to airlift him out in a tiny plane. There is a cable car running up the mountain, closed for maintenance at the time of writing, but due to reopen in December 2010 (T 0862.606.143). The small tourist office (W www.ilgransasso.it) was also closed following the earthquake, but local hotels are a good source of information on walks in the Gran Sasso park, and should be able to supply you with maps of trails and information on wildlife. As for accommodation, the Fior di Gigli (T 0862.606.171 & 0862.606.172, W www.ﬁordigigli.com; 2 ), over a snack bar at the base of the cable car, has been pleasantly modernized since Mussolini was imprisoned here. There’s also accommodation in two places run by CAI (the Italian Alpine Club); one of these

711

is the Ostello Campo Imperatore (T 335.879.6640, W www.hotelcampoimperatore .com; €30 per person for a hostel bed with breakfast or €45 for dinner, bed and breakfast), which occupies the old cable-car station; the other is the Hotel Campo Imperatore (phone and website as above; June to mid-Sept; 3 ). Gran Sasso trails ABRUZ Z O AND M OL I S E

| L’Aquila

Snow can continue to fall on the park’s highest mountain, Corno Grande (2912m), until late May, and remain thick on the ground well into June, so outside July and August, the ascent should only be attempted by experienced and fully equipped climbers. At all times you should be prepared for some fairly strenuous screeclimbing and steep descents. If you are ﬁt, but not experienced, it is probably wiser to take a guide: contact the local association of mountain guides (T 347.817.9989; €240 per day; maximum four people when there is snow cover). Perhaps the most challenging route is the tough trek from the Ostello Campo Imperatore (see above) right across the mountain range, taking in the Corno Grande, sleeping over at the Rifugio Franchetti (T 0861.959.634 or 333.232.4474, W www.rifugiofranchetti.it; June–Sept; €20, or €32 for dinner, bed and breakfast). The website has several suggested itineraries (in Italian only), and the staff are also very knowledgeable. If you’re going to do any of the Gran Sasso trails, you’ll need the CAI Gran Sasso d’Italia map (on sale in newsagents around the region), and should check out weather conditions with your hotel or online at W www.meteomont.net ﬁrst.

The Campo Imperatore plain The road continues from Fonte Cerreto across the vast Campo Imperatore plain, long the stomping ground of nomadic shepherds, who bring their ﬂocks up to the plain for summer grazing after wintering in the south – a practice that endured since Roman times. The plain is fringed with hill-villages, many of them owing their existence to the medieval wool-trade. Among them is Castel del Monte, heavily fortiﬁed and crowned with a ruined castle and church, scene of a chilling episode at the beginning of the last century when workers discovered a series of caves containing hundreds of clothed skeletons sitting on cane chairs. The skeletons no longer exist, having been burnt as a health precaution, though their discovery perhaps lies behind the town’s biggest event of the year, a festival of witches that takes place one night in mid-August (see W www.lanottedellestreghe.org for the exact date), with locals acting out all manner of spooky scenarios. For the rest of the year, the main attraction is the cheesemaker’s Aromatorio Mariano at Via delle Vittorie 7 just above the main piazza, where a single woman keeps local traditions alive with a creative range of cheeses – among them goat’s cheese in juniper ash, ricotta with saffron preserved in olive oil, and sheep’s cheese matured in grape must, or wrapped in ﬁg. Close by is Rocca Calascio, its pale-honey castle crumbling above a village that is just beginning to be repopulated and restored after years of abandonment, as people revalue the potential of its medieval houses as holiday homes. Beyond is Santo Stefano di Sessanio, a bustling Medici stronghold in the ﬁfteenth century, virtually abandoned, and seemingly destined for nothing, until visionary entrepreneur Daniele Kihlgren turned up there on his motorbike in 1999 (see box opposite).

Bominaco 712

From L’Aquila, the SS17 follows the ancient route of the local shepherds across the saffron ﬁelds south to Sulmona. If you have your own transport, it’s worth making a short detour on the way to see two of Abruzzo’s most beautiful churches at BOMINACO (also accessible by bus from L’Aquila). The village itself is an

The culture of poverty

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inauspicious knot of grubby houses in a marvellous setting at the head of a valley, but the endearingly askew and lichen-mottled facade of San Pellegrino, founded by Charlemagne, conceals ﬂoor-to-ceiling thirteenth-century frescoes in vivid hues reminiscent of a peacock’s plume (open on request; see p.714). The frescoes include pictures of the life of Christ, the Virgin and a huge St Christopher, as well as an intriguing calendar with signs of the zodiac. If you put your ear to the hole at the side of the altar, tradition says you’ll hear the heartbeat of San Pellegrino buried below. The church of Santa Maria Assunta (opened on request; see p.714), just beyond, stands on the foundations of a Roman temple to Venus. Beyond its coolly reﬁned exterior, the creamy-white carvings are so exquisitely precise that it seems the mason has only just put down his chisel; in fact they’re eight hundred

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The son of an Italian mother and Swedish father, Daniele Kihlgren was born heir to the vast fortune his mother’s family had accrued by producing cement. Like many rich kids, he rebelled, getting himself expelled from three schools, then dabbling in hard drugs. A motorbike trip around Italy opened his eyes to the immense damage cement – and illegal development – had done to his country, especially in Sicily and the south, but in 1999, biking through Abruzzo, he discovered Santo Stefano di Sessanio, a hillvillage that was so poor that no one had ever bothered to build anything new. In other similar villages around the south, those who wanted to make anything of their lives had emigrated, to America, Australia, Germany, Switzerland, often returning to build huge modern houses that had nothing to do with local traditions, materials or landscape. Returnees wanted to demonstrate their wealth and cosmopolitanism, and did so by constructing the horrendous Swiss-type chalets or American-style bungalows – most of them built with breezeblocks and cement but no planning permission – that make eyesores of so many small southern villages. Santo Stefano di Sessanio, it seemed, was so insigniﬁcant that no one who left bothered to return. Kihlgren bought a house on the spot, then set about securing a deal with Santo Stefano’s local authority. He promised to make a substantial investment in the village, in return for which the authority agreed to place a blanket ban on new building. Kihlgren bought eight more houses in Santo Stefano, and €4.5 million and eight years later opened Sextantio (Via Principe Umberto; T0862.899.112, Wwww.sextantio.it; 6), an “albergo diffuso”: a hotel whose rooms, restaurant and reception areas are diffused among the medieval houses of the village. The aesthetics and philosophy behind the restoration were radical. Kihlgren was sick of what he considers the over-valuation of planned cities, big-name architects, high art and culture, as opposed to the anonymous, organic, rural architecture of poverty and survival. And though not denying his guests the comfort of under-ﬂoor heating (and Philippe Starck bathtubs) he was determined that the spartan realities of rustic life were not papered over. Literally. Walls were stripped back to their ancient plaster and left bare, many preserving blackened patches where a ﬁre once roared. Floors too were left bare, and original oak doors and locks lovingly restored – so that today guests are given iron keys to lug around, the size of a forearm. In the stonevaulted restaurant, traditional dishes have been revived, and olive oil and pulses produced on the Sextantio’s own land are served, along with local cheeses, salamis, home-made liqueurs and locally raised lamb. Kihlgren has property in nine other villages scattered around the south, and has teamed up with UK architect David Chipperﬁeld for the next phase of development. Down in the cave-city of Matera in Basilicata (see p.845), he has also linked up with a similar project, Sassi di Matera, the brainchild of another passionately committed visionary, Margaret Berg.

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years old. You can ask for admission to both churches from a local lady known as Signora Chiara (T 0862.93.764; tip expected). Bring change to illuminate the interiors (€2).

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Sulmona and around Flanked by bleak mountains and bristling with legends about its most famous son, Ovid, SULMONA is a rich and comfortable provincial town owing its wealth to gold jewellery and sugared almonds. Although it sustained some damage during the 2009 earthquake, most of it was internal, and it remains an atmospheric little place, with a dark tangle of a historical centre lined with imposing palaces and overshadowed by the mountainous bulk of the Majella. Sulmona’s sights can be seen in a day, but the town makes a good base for exploring the surroundings – from ancient hermitages to towns with snake-infested festivals.

| Sulmona and around

Arrival, information and accommodation Buses arrive at the Villa Comunale next to the centro storico. The train station is 1.5km outside the centre of town; bus A runs from the station to the villa. The tourist office ( July–Sept Mon–Sat 9am–1pm & 4–7pm, Sun 9am–1pm; Oct–June Mon–Fri 9am–1pm & 3–6pm; T 0864.53.276) is at Corso Ovidio 208. There’s a second office in the old pharmacy of the Palazzo Santissima Annunziata, with very helpful staff, maps and details of Sulmona’s churches and palaces (daily 9am–12.30pm & 3.30–7pm; T 0864.210.216). One of the victims of the earthquake was the lovely old hotel Italia, which sustained considerable internal damage. The friendly owners, however, have several comfortable apartments with views of the Majella scattered along Via Quatrario in the historic centre, which they run on a B&B basis (T 0864.52308, W www .bedandbreakfastcasebonomini.com; 2 ). Another good option is the Stella, Via Mazara 18 (T 0864.52.653, W www.hasr.it; 2 ), a relaxed, family-run establishment where you should book ahead. Northeast of town, near the village of Marane, the friendly B&B L’Eremo offers comfortable rooms with panoramic views just 1km from the Parco Nazionale della Majella (T 0864.52.749, W www.leremo.it; 2 ).

The Town Corso Ovidio, Sulmona’s main street, cuts through the centre from the park-side bus terminus, leading up to Piazza XX Settembre. From here, Sulmona’s sights are within easy strolling distance. The Annunziata

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A couple of minutes back up Corso Ovidio stands the Annunziata, a GothicRenaissance palazzo adjoining a ﬂamboyant Baroque church. It was established by a confraternity to take care of the citizens from birth until death, and its steps were once crowded with the ill and destitute. These days they are a hangout for the town’s teenagers during the evening passeggiata, who naturally pay no attention whatsoever to the external decoration designed to remind onlookers of the cycles of life and death. The most intriguing statue, however, is just inside the entrance: Ovid, metamorphosed from pagan poet of love into an ascetic friar. Inside the Annunziata are several museums, most of which, thanks to the earthquake and a lack of staff, seem fated never to open regularly. The most interesting is the Museo del Costume Popolare Abruzzese-Molisano e della Transhumanza

The rest of the town

| Sulmona and around

As well as gold, the Corso’s shops are full of Sulmona’s other great product – confetti – a confection of sugared almonds or chocolate wired into elaborate ﬂowers with the aid of coloured cellophane, crêpe paper and ribbons. Through ingenious marketing the Sulmonese confetti barons have made gifts of their intricate sculptures de rigueur at christenings, conﬁrmations and weddings throughout Catholic Europe. At the end of the Corso is Piazza del Carmine, where the weighty Romanesque portal of San Francesco della Scarpa was the only part of the church solid enough to withstand a 1703 earthquake. The church gets its name – della Scarpa (of the shoe) – from the fact that Franciscans wore shoes instead of the sandals worn by other monastic orders. Opposite, the impressive Gothic aqueduct, built to supply water to the town and power to its wool mills, ends at a small ﬁfteenth-century fountain, the Fontana del Vecchio, named for the bust of a chubby-cheeked old man on top. On the other side of the aqueduct is Piazza Garibaldi, a vast square dominated by the austere slopes of Monte Morrone, on which the hermit Pietro Morrone lived until he was dragged away to be made Pope Celestine V. There’s a former nunnery in the corner – take a look at the courtyard, where there’s a tiny door at which unmarried mothers were permitted to abandon their babies.

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(erratic hours; free), devoted to local costumes and transhumance – the practice of moving sheep to summer pastures – along with examples of work by Sulmona’s Renaissance goldsmiths, a trade that continues here today, as evidenced by the number of jewellers’ shops along the Corso; another, the Museo Civico (closed following the earthquake), has local sculpture and paintings from the sixteenth to seventeenth centuries; and a third, the Museo “in situ” (Tues–Sun 10am–1pm; free), shows the excavations of a Roman villa inhabited from the ﬁrst century BC to the second century AD, abandoned suddenly along with many other houses in the valley when a landslide or an earthquake struck. Among the fragments of fabulously coloured wall-painting are depictions of Pan, Eros, Dionysus and Ariadne, and there are several ﬂoor mosaics, all well labelled.

Eating and drinking Sulmona has some excellent, reasonably priced restaurants, with mains generally around the €7–8 mark. Cesidio, Via Solimo 25 (T 0864.52.724; closed Tues), is a popular local place with some great home-made pasta dishes including pasta alla chitarra alla spazzacamino, with capers, olives, tomato and herbs, for €7. Expect to pay around €25 for a full meal. The slightly more expensive A Clemente, Vico Quercia 20 (T 0864.210.679; closed all day Thurs & Sun dinner), is a bright, family-run place in an old palazzo that’s been serving home-produced salumi and dishes such as agnello con aglio, rosmarino e pecorino (pan-seared lamb with garlic, rosemary and pecorino cheese) for over ﬁfty years. For an excellent choice of wines head for La Cantina di Biffi (T 0864.32.025; closed all day Mon & Tues lunch), an elegantly countriﬁed place in Via Barbato 1 off Corso Ovidio, where you can eat handmade pasta and other local dishes, and expect to spend around €20 a head for a full meal.

Parco Nazionale della Majella The Parco Nazionale della Majella, 10km to the east of Sulmona, is named after the mountain – Monte Majella – that dominates the area. Dedicated to the Italic goddess Maja, the mountain was held sacred by the ancient people of Abruzzo, and the region around it was named Domus Christi by Petrarch, or the “House of God”, for its proliferation of hermitages and abbeys. Over a hundred hermits

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Cocullo’s snake festival

ABRUZ Z O AND M OL I S E

| Sulmona and around

A tatty hill-village west of Sulmona, connected by infrequent trains and even less frequent buses, Cocullo is understandably neglected by outsiders for 364 days of the year. However, on the ﬁrst Thursday in May it’s invaded by what seems like half the population of central Italy, coming to celebrate the weird festival of snakes, an annual event held in memory of St Dominic, the patron saint of the village, who allegedly rid the area of venomous snakes back in the eleventh century. The festival is an odd mixture of the modern and archaic. After Mass in the main square, a number of snake-charmers in the crowd drape a wooden statue of St Dominic with a writhing bunch of live but harmless snakes, which is then paraded through the streets in a bizarre celebration of the saint’s unique powers (he was apparently good at curing snake-bites too). It’s actually thought that Cocullo’s preoccupation with serpents dates back to before the time of the saint, when in the pre-Christian era local tribes worshipped their goddess Angitia with offerings of snakes. For information on the festival or the village in general, contact the comune’s Pro Loco tourist ofﬁce (T 0864.490.006, Wwww.comune.cocullo.aq.it).

made their retreat here in the Middle Ages; some reused cave dwellings, others built churches into the rock, haunting constructions to this day. There’s information at the park’s visitors’ centre on Via Roma in Pacentro (April, May & Sept 10.30am–1.30pm; June–Aug 10.30am–1.30pm & 5–8.30pm; T 349.153.9782, W www.parcomajella.it).

Scanno and around Some 20km down the road from Cocullo, and accessible by bus from Sulmona, SCANNO is a popular tourist destination, reached by passing through the narrow and rocky Saggitario Gorge, a spectacular drive along galleries of rock and around blind hairpin bends that widen out at the glassy green Lago di Scanno. Perched over the lake is a church, Madonna del Lago, with the cliff as its back wall, and nearby there are boats and pedaloes for rent in the summer, and a good restaurant, the Trattoria sul Lago (T 0864.747296), which specializes in home-made pasta such as gnocchi con brocoletti and maccheroni alla chitarra for €7; you could eat a whole meal for €22. If you’re planning on staying there’s a campsite, I Lupi (T 0864.740.100, E [email protected]; open all year), 2km away outside the town of Villalago, on the shore of the lake, but be warned that it gets packed out in summer. The village

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A couple of kilometres beyond, Scanno itself is a well-preserved medieval village encircled by mountains. In 1951, Henri Cartier-Bresson photographed the village, in a series of atmospheric shots focusing on the traditional dress worn by Scanno’s women. Some elderly women can still be seen wearing the long, dark, pleated skirts and bodices with a patterned apron that suggest a possible origin in Asia Minor. Scannese jewellery also has something of the Orient about it – large, delicately ﬁligreed earrings, and a star, known as a presuntuosa, given to ﬁancées to ward off other men. If you want to see the costume and jewellery at close quarters head for the shops on Strada Roma and Corso Centrale. It’s a pleasure strolling around the old town, built into the steep hillside, the squares and alleyways lined with solid stone houses built by wool barons when business was good. Though shepherding as a way of life is virtually extinct and the population has dwindled, it’s still a living village, with enough work available in Sulmona and in tourism to keep people from moving away. A chair lift,

Practicalities

| Parco Nazionale d’Abruzzo

The tourist office (summer daily 9am–1pm & 4–7pm; winter Tues, Thurs & Fri 9am–1pm & 3–6pm; T 0864.74.317, W www.abruzzoturismo.it) is at Piazza Santa Maria della Valle 12. It has a list of half a dozen B&Bs, while other accommodation options include Mille Pini, next to the chair lift at Via Pescara 2 (T 0864.74.387, 347.117.5515, W www.millepiniscanno.it; closed Oct & Nov; 1 ), a large chalet overlooking the village that is probably the most atmospheric place to stay. Between the lake and the village, Hotel Nilde, Viale del Lago 101 (T 0864.74.359, W www .hotelnilde.it; 1), is a simple family-run place with great views. They also have a nice place out of town towards the lake, the Albergo Rifugio del Lupo (T 0864.74.397, W www.ilrifugiodellupo.it; 1 ). Both hotels have good half-board deals, and a fullboard deal for skiers that includes lunch on the slopes. As for restaurants, Gli Archetti (T 0864.74.645; closed Tues), on Via Silla 8 inside the Porta della Croce entrance to the old town, cooks up imaginative variations on traditional Abruzzese cuisine – look out for dishes with wild vegetables, and save room for the apple cake with ginger cream; while Birreria La Baita (T 0864.747.826; daily July–Oct & Dec–Feb; Fri–Sun only March–June & Nov), in an Alpine-style chalet on the Circonvallazione, serves hearty mountain food from Abruzzo and Alto Adige, with occasional live music. It also has some cabin rooms available (W www.labaitadiscanno.it; 1 ).

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signposted 300m from the centre, takes skiers up to a handful of runs on Monte Rotondo, operating also in the short summer season when it’s worth going up just for the view of lake and mountains, especially at sunset. If you’re around in August, you might catch Scanno’s summer festival, with a series of cultural events and ﬁreworks displays held throughout the month (see W www.scanno.org or contact the tourist office), and on January 17 there’s a lasagne festival – more properly called the Festa di San Antonio Abate – involving the cooking of a great cauldron of lasagne and beans outside the door of the church, which is then blessed and doled out with a somewhat unholy amount of pushing and shoving.

Parco Nazionale d’Abruzzo At four hundred square kilometres, the PARCO NAZIONALE D’ABRUZZO is Italy’s third-largest national park and holds some of its wildest mountain land, providing great walking and a hunter-free haven for wolves, brown bears, chamois, deer, lynx, wild boar and three or four pairs of royal eagles. The central village, PESCASSÉROLI, is the main hub for visitors, a rather commercialized spot, liberally decorated with the park’s logo – a cuddly brown bear – and surrounded by campsites, holiday apartments and hotels. The best way to strike out from Pescasséroli is to hike. Take advantage of the comprehensive information service, and get walking as quickly as possible: as soon as you get away from the vicinity of the tourist villages, the wild Apennine beauty really makes itself felt.

Arrival and information Pescasséroli is served by bus from Avezzano, 30km west of Sulmona and a stop on the Pescara–Rome rail line (buses to the park leave from outside Avezzano’s train station). There are also bus services direct from Naples and Castel di Sangro on the border with Molise. In summer a daily service also runs from Rome.

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There’s a helpful tourist office in Pescasséroli on Via Santa Lucia (daily: summer 9am–7.30pm; winter 10am–5.30pm; T 0863.911.3221, W www.parcoabruzzo .it). In the same building, is the excellent natural history museum (same hours; €6), which ﬁlls you in on the park’s ﬂora and fauna and acts as a clinic for sick animals. There are other tourist offices – all with leaﬂets outlining walks and hikes for all ﬁtness levels – in Opi (Palazzo Comunale; daily 9.30am–12.30pm & 3.30–6.30pm; T 0863.910.622; closed Wed), which also has a chamois museum ( July & Aug daily 10am–12.30pm & 4–7pm, rest of year Sat & Sun only) and a ski museum (same hours as tourist office); inside the Museo dell’Orso (Bear Museum) in Villavallelonga (April–Sept Tues–Sun 9am–1pm & 2.30–4.30pm; Oct–March Sat & Sun 10am–noon & 2.30–5.30pm; T 0863.194.0278, W www .sherpa.abruzzo.it), and in Villetta Barrea (Mon–Sat 9.30am–1pm & 3–7pm, Sun 9.30am–1pm; T 0864.89.333).

| Parco Nazionale d’Abruzzo

Accommodation In high season, there’s little chance of ﬁnding a room on arrival; you need to book at least a month in advance and be prepared for compulsory half-board in July & August. If you’re coming here for a week or more, you might consider B&B accommodation in a private house or an apartment rental – the tourist office can supply you with a list, or try Agenzia Wolf in Civitella Alfadena (T 0864.890.213; 1 ). Campers should manage to ﬁnd space on one of the campsites, though be warned that temperatures are low even in summer. Hotels Al Castello Via Gabriele d’Annunzio 1, Pescasséroli T 0863.910.757, W www.pensionecastello.it. Off the main piazza, this small, stone-built guesthouse comes with squeakily clean and pretty rooms. 1 Degli Olmi Via Fossata 8, Villetta Barrea T 0864.89.159, Wwww.hotel-olmi.it. Highly polished and quiet hotel, with half-board obligatory in Aug. 2 La Torre Via Castello 3, Civitella Alfadena T 0864.890.121, W www.albergolatorre.com. Small, friendly hotel set in an eighteenth-century palace near Pescasséroli. 1 Paradiso Via Fonte Fracassi 4, Pescasséroli T 0863.910.422, W www.albergo-paradiso.it. Delightful hotel run by Scottish Geraldine and her

Italian husband Marco, with warm rustic decor and good country cooking (half-board €49). Ask to see Geraldine’s pub. 2

Campsites Agenzia Wolf Civitella Alfadena T 0864.890.213. As well as apartment rental (see above), this agency runs a campsite 300m from the centre (mid-June to Sept). La Genziana Villetta Barrea T0864.88.101, Wwww.campinglagenzianapasetta.it. This campsite has an on-site bar and is only ﬁve minutes’ walk from the town. Sant’Andrea Località Sant’Andrea T0863.912.173, Wwww.campingsantandrea.com. Close to town off the SS83, with bungalows (€60–80) as well as plots for caravans and tents.

Hiking routes

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The tourist ofﬁces sell maps on which all hiking routes in the park are marked, along with an indication of the difﬁculty involved, the time needed, and the ﬂora and fauna you’re likely to see on the way. There are nearly 150 different routes, starting from 25 letter-coded points, so making a choice can be difﬁcult. Note that from July 15 to September 15, some of the most popular routes, including Val di Rosa and Monte Amara, are open by reservation at the information ofﬁces only for a fee of €10–15. It’s usually sufﬁcient to book the day before. The rest of the year, these routes are open without restriction or fee, though guided tours can still be arranged.

Park wildlife

Eating out in most of the park’s villages means fairly cheap pizza and pasta, and general stores that will make up sandwiches for picnics. For local specialities try Plistia at Via Principe di Napoli 28 (T 0863.910.732; closed Mon), where you can eat hearty mountain primi such as soup with local vegetables and pulses, or, in spring, gnocchi with asparagus and local saffron, for around €8; expect to pay about €25 for a full meal. The slightly more expensive Il Pescatore on Via Roma in Villetta Barrea (T 0864.89.347, W www.albergoristorantepescatore.com), is a large restaurant and hotel where you can feast on superlative fresh trout from the lake and home-made pasta dishes. Two festivals worth trying to coincide a trip with are the Festa della Transhumanza (May or June; contact tourist office for dates), commemorating the work of local nomadic shepherds by retracing their routes on foot or on horse, followed by a tasting of local products in Pescasséroli’s main square. The town’s Festa della Madonna, on July 15 and 16, sees the Black Madonna carried 9km from her sanctuary on Monte Tranquillo to Pescasséroli and back to celebrate the town’s miraculous escape from being bombed during World War II after prayers were offered to the Madonna.

| Northeast Abruzzo: Téramo

Eating, drinking and entertainment

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The Abruzzo National Park (Wwww.parcoabruzzo.it) is an area of exceptional biodiversity with around a hundred indigenous species. One of the most important animals in the park is the Marsican brown bear. Until recently an endangered species, there are now thought to be around thirty to ﬁfty in the park, but they are extremely shy, solitary and lazy, and difﬁcult to spot – you’re more likely to ﬁnd traces of their presence than see an actual bear. Another key park inhabitant is the Apennine wolf, of which there are around forty to ﬁfty. As with the bears, the wolves offer no danger to humans, and they are also difﬁcult to spot – the closest you’re likely to get to either in the wild are footprints in mud or snow. Look out, too, for the chamois d’Abruzzo, deer and roe deer, wildcats, martens, otters, badgers, polecats and the edible dormouse. Wolves can also be seen at the dedicated wolf museum at Civitella Alfadena; others can be seen close up at the fascinating clinic and natural history museum in Pescasséroli. Among birds, the park’s species include the golden eagle, the peregrine hawk, the goshawk and the rare white-backed woodpecker. Higher up are snow ﬁnches, alpine accentors and rock partridges. The park’s ﬂora includes many local orchids, among which the most important variety is Venus’s little shoe or Our Lady’s slipper, which thrives on the chalky soil in the park. There are also gentians, peonies, violets, irises and columbines, and black pine woods at Villetta Barrea and the Camosciara.

Northeast Abruzzo: Téramo Rising from the Adriatic and rolling towards the eastern slopes of the Gran Sasso, the landscape of northeast Abruzzo is gentle, and its inland towns are usually ignored in favour of its long, sandy and highly popular coastline. TÉRAMO, capital of the province of the same name, is a modern town with an elegant centre, and if you’re heading for the sea you may well pass through. Téramo’s main attraction is the Duomo (daily 7am–noon & 4–8pm; free) at the top of Corso San Giorgio, which has been recently restored. Inside is

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| The Abruzzo coast

a remarkable silver altarfront by the ﬁfteenth-century Abruzzese silversmith Nicola da Guardiagrele. It has 35 panels with lively reliefs of religious scenes, starting with the Annunciation and moving through the New Testament, punctuating the narrative with portraits of various saints. The artist was famous enough to feature in a sumptuous polyptych by a Venetian artist, Jacobello del Fiore, in a Baroque chapel to the left. It features a model of Téramo, set against a gilded sky, with Nicola wearing a monk’s habit on the left, Jacobello in the red gown on the right. South of the Duomo, Via Irelli leads to the heart of Roman Téramo, with fragments of the amphitheatre, and the more substantial walls of the theatre, where two of the original twenty entrance arches remain. Between Piazza Garibaldi and the Villa Comunale at Viale Bovio 1 is the town’s modest Pinacoteca (May–Sept Tues–Sun 9am–1pm & 5–8pm; Nov–April Tues–Sun 9am–1pm & 4–7pm; €5 with Museo Archeologico). The collection of local art over the centuries is best represented by the Madonna Enthroned with Saints – a polyptych in which the colours are lucid and the forms almost sculpted, the work of local ﬁfteenth-century artist Giacomo da Campli. The Museo Archeologico off Via Carducci on Via Delﬁco 30 (same hours and ticket) is strong on Roman ﬁnds from excavations in Téramo and includes a ﬁrst-century mosaic of a lion among the forum columns and marble busts.

Practicalities Buses to Téramo stop at Piazza Garibaldi, linked with the train station (east of the centre on Via Crispi) by regular #1 city buses. The tourist office (Mon–Fri 9am–1pm & 3–6pm, Sat 9am–1pm; T 0861.244.222, W www.abruzzoturismo .it) is on Via Oberdan 16–17, near the Museo Archeologico. Heading off Piazza Garibaldi at Via del Castello 62 there is a reasonable hotel, the Castello (T 0861.247.582; 1 ), which has simple, old-fashioned rooms and its own restaurant, while the tourist office (and its website) has a list of B&Bs. Restaurants include the Antico Cantinone at Via Ciotti 5 (T 0861.241.774; closed Mon), which has good local fare like grilled lamb with herbs and ﬁxedprice menus at €13 and €20. The bustling A Enoteca Centrale, Corso Cerulli 24 (T 0861.243.633; closed Sun), has a great wine list – 350 labels – backed up by excellent local dishes, such as the winter dish scripelle, thin crêpes ﬁlled with grated cheese and a sprinkle of cinnamon covered in chicken broth, while in summer much use is made of seasonal vegetables. All primi cost around €7.

The Abruzzo coast

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Abruzzo’s coastline stretches for 125km from the border with the Marche region down to the seaside resort of Vasto. Heading south, the ﬁrst town of any signiﬁcance is Pescara. Its beaches and cultural sites are enough to hold your attention for a day or two and it makes a logical base for excursions to two atmospheric medieval villages, Loreto Aprutino and Atri. Next stop along the coast is Chieti, home to a superb archeological museum. Further south, the coast becomes less developed, though the long ribbon of sand continues, followed by the train line and punctuated with mostly small resorts. Here, hilltop Vasto and the seaside resort Marina di Vasto are attractive destinations for a beach holiday and a good jumping-off point for trips to the Trémiti islands.

Pescara and around

Arrival and information

Accommodation

Most hotels are on the beach front, north of the river and the old town. The Alba, Via M. Forti 14 (T 085.389.145, W www.hotelalba.pescara.it; 3 ), is a fairly upmarket choice – the rooms here have a baroque touch that takes them beyond the average business hotel, and there are often discounts at weekends. The Marisa, Via Regina Margherita 39 (T &F 085.273.45; 2 ), is a friendly, family-run place two blocks in from the sea, and just a short walk from the train station. The tourist office and its website have a list of B&Bs. Of these, A Villa del Pavone (T 085.421.1770, W www.villadelpavone.it; 2 ), Via Pizzoferrato 30, offers the opportunity to spend a few days in Liberty-era splendour, occupying an Art Nouveau villa with a magniﬁcent garden, complete with peacock. There are four double rooms, one of which can sleep four, making it ideal for families. As well as breakfast, lunch and dinner are available on request. It’s a little way out, on the far side of a railway tracks a ﬁve-minute walk from the station, or a ﬁfteen-minute walk to the beach. The nearest campsite is Francavilla (T 085.810.715, W www.campingfrancavilla .com; June 15–Sept 15), 10km south of Pescara at Francavilla al Mare – buses #1 and #2 stop outside.

| The Abruzzo coast

Pescara has two train stations, though unless you’re leaving the country you only need to use one, Stazione Centrale, at Piazza della Repubblica (the other, Porta Nuova, is more convenient for ferry connections). Buses to Rome (quicker than the train) and Naples, as well as regional buses, leave from outside Stazione Centrale. Ryanair ﬂights from London Stansted land at Abruzzo Airport (W www.abruzzo -airport.it), around 3km southwest of the city; from the airport, the #38 bus leaves for Piazza della Repubblica every ﬁfteen minutes (€1). The tourist office is in Piazza della Repubblica in the ex-silos of the old station (May–Oct Mon–Sat 9am–1pm & 4.30–7.30pm, Sun 9am–1pm; Nov–April Mon–Sat 9am–1pm & 4–7pm; T 085.4212.5462, W www.abruzzoturismo.it).

ABRUZ Z O AND M OL I S E

The main town and resort of the Abruzzo coast is PESCARA, a bustling, modern place that’s the region’s most commercial and expensive city. If you’re looking for somewhere to sunbathe there are much quieter – and cleaner – places than Pescara’s sixteen-kilometre beach; but if you are taking a ferry to Split or Stari Grad for the islands of Croatia’s Dalmatian coast, you might ﬁnd yourself using the city as a departure point. It’s also the nearest town to the new Abruzzo airport, where low-cost ﬂights from the UK touch down.

The Town

Pescara was heavily bombed in World War II and architecturally there’s little of distinction here. Opposite the Stazione Centrale, the main street, Corso Umberto, is lined with designer boutiques and packed with the label-conscious Pescaresi, who also hang out in the elegant cafés on Piazza Rinascita, known as Pescara’s salone. In the little that remains of its historic streets, the town boasts an excellent and child-friendly museum, the Museo delle Genti d’Abruzzo at Via delle Caserme 22 ( June–Oct Mon–Sat 10am–1pm, Fri & Sat 9.30pm–12.30am; Nov–May Mon–Sat 9am–1.30pm, Sat, Sun & hols 5–8pm; W www.gentid abruzzo.it; €6, including food and drink for up to €3 at the Caffe Letterario a couple of doors away), dedicated to the life and popular traditions of the region. Perhaps the most enchanting room is one devoted to the nomadic shepherds, containing

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books of their poetry, carved objects and volumes of Ariosto’s chivalric romance Orlando Furioso. Admirers of eccentric poet Gabriele d’Annunzio (see box, p.205) may want to visit his birthplace at Corso Manthonè 116 (daily 9am–1.30pm, July & Aug also 6–11.30pm; €2; W www.casadannunzio.beniculturali.it), while devotees of Art Nouveau and later twentieth-century art should head for the Museo Civico Basilio Cascella at Viale Marconi 45 (Wed, Fri, Sat & Sun 9am–1pm, Tues & Thurs 9am–1pm & 4–8pm; €2.50), home to ﬁve hundred lithographic prints, paintings, ceramics and sculptures, including a stunning set of portraits (mounted on dinner plates) by the proliﬁc Cascella family who lived and worked here. Eating and drinking

| The Abruzzo coast

For meals and nightlife, head for the little that remains of the old town of Pescara near the river. Along Corso Manthonè and Via delle Caserme there are more than ﬁfty bars and restaurants, including the Cantina di Jozz at Via delle Caserme 59–65 (T 085.451.8800, W www.jozz.it; closed all day Mon & Sun dinner), which does great Abruzzese food such as maialino arrosto (roast suckling pig) for €12. Otherwise, try the slow-food advocate La Lumaca, just down the road from the Cantina at no. 51 (T 085.451.0880; dinner only; closed Sun) – one of their best dishes is agnello porchettato (lamb cooked like an aromatic hog roast) – or the A Locanda Manthonè, Corso Manthonè 58 (T 085.454.9034; closed Sun), loved by the Pescarese for its reasonably priced, quality food such as slow-cooked lamb with saffron. Loreto Aprutino

LORETO APRUTINO is a quiet, medieval hilltop settlement 24km inland from Pescara. The labyrinthine old town is home to a dwindling number of artisans’ workshops specializing in hand-crafted knives. There are also tiny cantinas in the old town selling olive oil, for which the area has been awarded a DOP (denominazione di origine protetta), the equivalent of the DOC designation for wine. Loreto heaves with people on market day (Thurs 7am–1pm) and in the evenings during the late-running passeggiata, when it’s a pleasure to simply do nothing and soak up the atmosphere. At the top of the old town, on the end of a row of nineteenth-century palazzi, stands the church of San Pietro Apostolo, with medieval origins and an elegant Renaissance portico. Inside are the relics of the town’s patron saint, San Zopito, who is venerated on the ﬁrst Monday after Pentecost with a procession led by a child riding a white bull. Regular buses make the trip from Pescara, dropping you on Via Roma, 150m from the tourist office at Piazza Garibaldi 1 (May–Oct Mon–Sat 9am–1pm & 4.30–6.30pm; Nov–April Mon–Sat 9am–1pm & 3.30–5.30pm; open ﬁrst & third Sun of the month 9am–1pm; T 085.829.0213). It’s a good day-trip from Pescara but if you decide to stay, the A B&B Lauretum, Via del Baio 3 (T 085.829.2000, W www.bedbreakfastlauretum.com; 2 ), is fantastic value for money, with accommodation in a family house near the Castello. The huge, frescoed rooms come with antique furniture and there’s a billiards room too. You can eat very well at the reasonably priced Ristorante Carmine (T 085.820.8553; closed Mon) on Contrada Re Martello 52, just west of the centro storico, where fresh ﬁsh from Pescara is served with care. The coda di rospo con patate e rosmarino, monkﬁsh with potatoes and rosemary – a typical dish hereabouts – is sublime. 722

Atri

Buses from Pescara also head to the pretty little town of ATRI, 30km north, well worth a visit for the pleasure of wandering the town and exploring the

The Riserva Naturale dei Calanchi

surrounding countryside, as well as for the ﬁfteenth-century frescoes in its Duomo. Approaching the town is like travelling through the background of a Renaissance painting, with gently undulating hills planted with orderly olive groves giving way to a surrealist landscape of sleek clay gullies known as calanchi, water-eroded into smooth ripples, wrinkles and folds. Buses drop you off on Viale Gran Sasso, from where stairs lead up to the centre and towards the main piazza, dominated by the thirteenth-century Duomo. Its facade is understated, pierced by a rose window and perforated by the holes in which scaffolding beams were slotted during construction. The highlight is the cycle of frescoes in the apse by Andrea Delitio, known for his sophisticated and realistic portrayal of architecture and landscape. The Birth of Mary, for example, has servants giving the newly born baby a bath. The most emotionally charged scene is the Slaughter of the Innocents, in which the horror is intensiﬁed by the reﬁned Renaissance architectural setting and the fact that the massacre is coolly observed from a balcony by Herod’s party of civic bigwigs. There is a very interesting historical trail marked out around town (with signs based on the design of a local Roman coin) taking in Roman relics, including the foundations of what may have been a dye-works, some spooky tunnels, and several museums, including the Museo Archeologico (Thurs–Tues 10.30am–12.30pm & 3.30–5.30pm; free), with local prehistoric and Roman ﬁnds, and a huge folk museum, the Museo Etnograﬁco (Tues–Sun 4.30–7.30pm; €1), which conjures up traditional peasant life with replicas of a bedroom and kitchen, and over two thousand domestic and rustic objects.

| The Abruzzo coast

The Town

ABRUZ Z O AND M OL I S E

If you want to explore the calanchi, follow the itinerary marked with porcupines (the Riserva Naturale’s logo), or take a look at the website of the Riserva Naturale dei Calanchi di Atri (Wwww.riservacalanchidiatri.it, T085.878.0088) to ﬁnd out about the excellent guided walks; these depart in summer at 5.30pm (dates vary), and at 9.30pm when there is a full moon, from the visitor centre at Colle della Giustizia, site of an ancient necropolis, to the west of town.

Practicalities

If you want to stay, there are several B&Bs. Arco di San Francesco, Via San Francesco 8 (T 085.87762, W www.arcodisanfrancesco.it; 3 ), in the old town, has four rooms on the second ﬂoor of an early twentieth-century palazzo; families might prefer to stay a little outside town, in one of several B&Bs with a garden. Particularly lovely is the outstanding A L’Albero di Antonia, a kilometre outside town at Via A. Pacini 5 (T 340.928.7626, W www.lalberodiantonia.it; 2 ), which has four stylish rooms (two with en-suite bathroom), and a large garden where you can laze around with views to mountains and sea. Children are welcome (there’s a friendly dog and cats to play with) and the owners can organize horseriding excursions and bike hire.

Chieti Twenty minutes by train or bus southwest of Pescara is the relaxed and appealing town of CHIETI. Spread over a curving ridge, the town offers great views of the Majella and Gran Sasso mountains and – when it’s clear – out to sea. It also holds Abruzzo’s best archeological museum by far.

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| The Abruzzo coast

Largo Cavallerizza, where buses from the train station drop off, is 50m from the chunky and much-reconstructed cathedral, from where the main Corso Marrucino cuts through the town centre to Piazza Trento e Trieste. Behind the post office, off Via Spaventa, are the remains of three little Roman temples. However, it’s the Museo Archeologico Nazionale di Abruzzo (Tues–Sun 9am–8pm; €4) that is of most interest, beyond Piazza Trento e Trieste and laid out in the digniﬁed Villa Comunale. It holds ﬁnds from Abruzzo’s major sites: a massive and muscular white-marble Hercules from his temple at Alba Fucens as well as a miniature bronze statue of him, one of several Roman copies of the Greek original by Lysippus. Most interesting is the Capestrano Warrior, a statue of a Bronze Age warrior-prince with strangely feminine hips and thighs. Further digs in Chieti have uncovered the core of Teate – the main town of the Marrucini, an Italic tribe – that became a Roman colony in the ﬁrst century BC. The site lies on the edge of central Chieti west of the Villa Comunale at the Civitella archeological park (Tues–Sun 9am–8pm; €4), which comprises the amphitheatre, thermal baths (under restoration) and a new museum with restored temple fragments and remains from Chieti and the nearby river basin. Practicalities

Buses and trains drop you at Chieti Scalo down in the valley, from where it’s a ten-minute journey on bus #1 up the hill to Chieti proper, 5km away. The #1 makes stops in the centre along Via Herio and at Largo Cavallerizza near the cathedral. Chieti’s tourist office is at Via Spaventa 47, just off Corso Marrucino (Tues & Thurs 9am–1pm & 3–6pm; T 0871.63.640, W www.abruzzoturismo.it). For accommodation, try Garibaldi, Piazza Garibaldi 26 (T 0871.345.318; 1 ), which has affordable and central, if ordinary, rooms. Very good value meals can also be had in central Chieti at Trattoria Nino, Via Principessa di Piemonte 7 (T 0871.63.781; closed Mon), near Piazza Trento e Trieste, where the service is slow but the family atmosphere and full meals of regional specialities for €20 compensate. For a light meal, drink or dessert, head to the Casina dei Tigli (T 0871.69.509; closed Mon) in the Villa Comunale, where locals ﬂock to see and be seen.

Vasto VASTO, 75km southeast of Pescara and close to the border with Molise, is a ﬁne old city, built on the site of the Roman town Histonium and overlooking the resort of Marina di Vasto. There are plenty of campsites, and a handful of reasonable hotels along the broad sandy beach – palm-lined and beach-hutted in the centre, wilder and rockier to the north (the ever-shrinking free beach area is central), with devices known as trabocchi installed every so often. These are Heath Robinson-ish crane-like contraptions of wooden beams and nets, with a complex system of weights, designed for scooping up ﬁsh. The Town

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Vasto is all about the beach, though if you’re here for a day or so you should deﬁnitely get a bus from the train station on the seafront to the upper town (#4 or #1 for the Marina and Vasto Centro; roughly every 30min, more frequent in summer; 10min), whose rooftops and campaniles rise above palms and olive groves. The centre of town is Piazza Rossetti, its gardens dominated by the massive Castello Caldoresco. Just off the piazza, next to the small Duomo, stands the Renaissance Palazzo d’Avalos and its enchanting Neapolitan garden, a courtyard with orange trees

Practicalities

| Térmoli and around

The tourist office ( June–Sept Mon–Sat 9am–1pm & 4–7pm, Sun 9am–1pm; Oct–May Mon, Tues & Thurs 9am–1pm & 3–6pm, Wed & Fri 9am–1pm; T 0873.367.312, W www.abruzzoturismo.it) is on Piazza del Popolo. Pleasant as the upper town is, it doesn’t offer much in the way of accommodation. One place to try is Hotel San Marco, Via Madonna dell’Asilo 4 (T 0873.60.537, W www.hotelsanmarcovasto.com; 2 ), a recently renovated, friendly three-star with a bar and restaurant. Some rooms have sea views. Otherwise, most of the action is down by the beach in Vasto Marina and further south in San Salvo. Note that hotels insist on half-board in July and August. For something more intimate than the impersonal four-stars, choose the A Villa Vignola (T 0873.310.050, W www.villavignola.it; 3 ), a small white villa outside town with a tiny pebble beach, a garden for lounging in and a romantic terrace restaurant serving such delicacies as stuffed baby squid (€50–60 a head excluding wine). If your budget won’t stretch that far, La Bitta, Lungomare Cordella 18 (T 0873.801.979; no credit cards; April–Sept; 1 ), is a spacious and welcoming hotel with good home cooking. Parking and a place on their beach are included in the price. There are also numerous campsites along the coast, most off the SS16 towards Fóggia. Il Pioppeto is right on the beach and has pine trees for shade (T 0873.801.466, W www.ilpioppeto.it; mid-May to mid-Sept). For eating and drinking, there are plenty of pizzerias and pubs in Vasto Marina, although you might consider splashing out at Villa Vignola (see above). If you have a car, be sure to eat at the Trattoria Da Ferri (T 0873.310.320; closed Sun dinner & Mon), above the old port 7km north of Vasto, where you can feast on ﬁsh caught from the nearby trabocchi. Otherwise try Ristorante Castello Aragona on Via San Michele 105 in the upper town, where fresh Adriatic ﬁsh is artfully prepared and served on a panoramic terrace (T 0873.69.885; closed Mon).

ABRUZ Z O AND M OL I S E

and pillars and gorgeous sea views. The palazzo was once the home of the poet and friend of Michelangelo, Vittoria Colonna, who was famous in her time for the bleak sonnets she wrote after her husband’s death; nowadays it houses the town museum (Sat & Sun 10.30am–12.30pm & 4.30–7pm; usually opens daily in summer; archeological museum €1.50, art gallery’s permanent collection free, costume museum €1.50), a somewhat sparse collection of archeological objects and beautiful old clothes, as well as some paintings by the Palizzi brothers. Piazza del Popolo opens onto a panoramic promenade that takes you to Vasto’s most memorable sight, the door of the church of San Pietro, surrounded by Romanesque twists and zigzags, standing isolated against a backdrop of sky, sea and trees, the rest of the church having been destroyed in a landslide in 1956.

Térmoli and around Just 6km separate Vasto and the brief stretch of the Molise coast, which is less developed than Abruzzo’s. Its only real town, TÉRMOLI, a ﬁshing port and quiet, undistinguished resort, makes for a relaxing place to spend a day. The beach is long and sandy and the old town, walled and guarded by a castle, has an interesting cathedral. It’s also a departure point for ferries to the Trémiti islands (see p.810) and in striking distance of the interior towns of Portocannone, Ururi and Larino. Térmoli is the place where Italian and Central European time is set – from the observatory inside the stark castle built above the beach in 1247 by Frederick II.

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Beyond the castle the road follows the old walls around the headland, holding what’s left of the old town, focus of which is the Duomo. This is most notable for its Romanesque exterior, decorated all the way round with a series of blind arcades and windows – a feature introduced by Frederick II’s Norman-inﬂuenced architects. Inside are the relics of St Timothy, best known for the letters he received from St Paul, who advised him on how to go about converting the Greeks. That he ended up in Térmoli is thanks to Termolese Crusaders, who brought his bones back from Constantinople as a souvenir. The Termolese hid them, fearing that if the Turks ever succeeded in penetrating the city they would seize and destroy them. In fact the relics were hidden so well they weren’t discovered until 1945, during restoration work to repair bomb damage (the sacristan will show them to you).

Practicalities

| Térmoli and around

Long-distance buses pull up in Via Martiri della Resistenza, 1km from Térmoli’s centre and the train station. A local bus service connects the bus station with the port and historical centre. The tourist office ( June–Sept Mon–Fri 8am–2pm & 3–6pm, Sat 8am–1pm; Oct–May Mon & Wed 8am–2pm & 3–6pm, Tues, Thurs & Fri 8am–2pm; T 0875.703.913) is on Piazza M. Bega 42, near the train station. In the summer the comune installs kiosks in main tourist points around the old town, which promote local crafts and Molise in general. Central accommodation includes Locanda Alfieri, Via Duomo 39 (T 0875.708.112, W www.locandalﬁeri.com; 2 ), a homey bed and breakfast 50m from the port – one of the few options in the Borgo Antico – and Hotel Santa Lucia (T 0875.705.101, W www.santaluciahotel.it; 3 ), on Largo Pie’ di Castello below the castle, where each room is warmly furnished and embellished with local contemporary artwork. About 5km from town along the SS16 is the campsite Campeggio Azzurra (T 0875.52.404, W www.camping.it/molise/azzurra; June– Sept), with a bar, restaurant, mini-market, and free beach. In the high season, there are buses every hour from the town centre. While here you should certainly have a meal in one of Térmoli’s seafood restaurants. Of these, Ristorante Z’Bass on Via Oberdan 8 (T 0875.706.703; closed Mon; booking essential in summer) does excellent, reasonably priced fresh ﬁsh – leave room for their home-made pasticceria secca (sweet pastries). There are plenty of pizzerias and simple trattorias along Via Fratelli Brigada, the seafront and the parallel Via Emanuele III; later on, try the wine bar Spirito di Vino on Largo Pie’ di Castello 27 (T 0875.703.676; evenings only, Wed–Mon).

The Albanian villages

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PORTOCANNONE, 12km south of Térmoli, and URURI, another 15km beyond, are isolated villages, most easily reached by bus from Térmoli. Their isolation is such that, six hundred years after their ancestors emigrated from Albania, the locals still speak an Albanian-Italian dialect incomprehensible to outsiders. Portocannone’s Romanesque church contains an icon of the Madonna of Constantinople, brought over by the original émigrés, and in Ururi, at the beginning of May, the Carresse festival is staged: a ﬁerce and furious race through the village streets on gladiator-style carts, pulled by bulls and pushed by men on horseback with spiked poles. It’s a ruthless business: the horses are fed beer before the race to excite them, and although the riders are supposed to push only the back of the carts, they are not averse to prodding the ﬂanks of the bulls, who have already been given electric shocks to liven them up. The race itself is terrifying, but unforgettable, with bulls, carts and spikes hurtling past the frenzied crowds,

nowadays protected by wire fences. There are almost inevitably injuries, and at least one person has been killed. The comune (T 0874.830.130, W www.comune .ururi.cb.it) has information.

Larino ABRUZ Z O AND M OL I S E

| Isernia

Some 15km due west of Ururi, LARINO’s attractive medieval centre is clasped in a valley. The highlight is its cathedral, but there are also some minor Roman relics in its small museum and a neglected amphitheatre in the modern town. To the left of the train station, Via Gramsci leads down to old Larino. The main street widens out at Piazza Vittorio Emanuele, backing onto which is the Palazzo Ducale, whose museum (Mon–Fri 8am–2pm & 3–6pm, Sat 8am–2pm; free) contains large Roman mosaics and a hoard of coins. On Via Gramsci, about halfway between the station and the centro storico, there’s a garden that also has Roman ruins, including capitals and columns, and a sacriﬁcial altar called the Ara Frentana. Close by is the Duomo (daily 9am–noon & 4–8pm, opens and closes afternoon earlier in winter; free), a lovely building with an intricately carved Gothic portal built in the early fourteenth century just after the town had been ﬂattened by an earthquake and sacked by the Saracens. The oldest part of the town starts beyond the Duomo, and the streets around it offer a glimpse at centuriesold street life: women making lace and preparing vegetables outside their houses, while the kids play in the alleys with makeshift toys. If you take the hourly bus from Piazza Vittorio Emanuele to the upper city, you’ll jump a couple of centuries in ﬁve minutes. Modern Larino is a bustling place, built on the site of the original Samnite/Roman town. The large and overgrown amphitheatre off Via Viadotto Frentano is visible from the street (Mon–Fri 9am–1pm; free) and gives some idea of the importance of early secondcentury-BC Larinum. If you want to stay, your only choice is the Park Hotel Campitelli 2 (T 0874.823.541, W www.parkhotelcampitelli2.it; 2 ) at Via San Benedetto 1, a four-star about 1km from the station.

Isernia Inland, ISERNIA is a useful entry point into western Molise, with good train connections from Rome and Naples. The ﬁrst settlement dates back to the Samnites, yet very little of old Isernia survives. Earthquakes – the most recent in 1984 – and wars have wreaked havoc on its historical monuments; much of the centre was destroyed in a bombing raid on September 10, 1943, and a monument to the four thousand who were killed – an anguished nude, ankle-deep in fractured tiles, bricks and gutters – is the centrepiece of the square called, understandably, Piazza X Settembre. In spite of it all, the city has rebuilt its commercial centre so that it’s now comparatively busy and bustling. The city’s most iconic monument is the Fontana Fraterna in Piazza Celestino V. The Romanesque fountain was built in the thirteenth century by the Rampini family from marble stripped from Roman tombs. The city’s main attraction is a prehistoric site called La Pineta, an easy 1.5km from the centre, or a short ride on the #3 bus from the station. Visits are by reservation only (T 0865.413.526; Mon–Fri 9am–1pm & 3–5pm; free). In 1978 local roadbuilders unearthed traces of a Palaeolithic settlement at least 700,000 years old – the most ancient signs of human life yet found in Europe. In the southern part of Isernia near the hospital (bus #2 from the station), the Museo Nazionale Santa Maria delle Monache (daily 8.30am–12.30pm & 3–7pm; €2), on Corso

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Marcelli 48, displays ﬁnds from the site. The exhibits are backed up by a video in English, which reconstructs the settlement and puts the ancient civilization in context. Contrary to the misleading publicity, there were no human remains found, just weapons, traps, traces of pigment thought to have been used as body paint, and animal bones, laid out to create a solid platform on the marshy land for the village. Though unbeguiling in itself, Isernia is a good starting-point for exploring the rest of Molise: buses to local villages and longer-distance buses, including those to Rome and Naples, depart from outside the train station. The tourist office is at Via Farinacci 9 (Mon–Sat 8am–2pm; T 086.53.992). You probably won’t need to stay, but if you do, head for Sayonara, a swish modern three-star at Via G. Berti 131 (T 086.550.992, W www.sayonara.is.it; 2 ) or ask the tourist office about B&Bs and rooms. As for eating, try Osteria del Paradiso, near the cathedral on Via Occidentale 2 (T 0865.414.847; closed Sun), where you can eat good, cheap, local food such as pasta e fagioli (a thick soup with pasta and beans).

| Campobasso and around

Campobasso and around CAMPOBASSO, Molise’s regional capital, is a modern town that makes a good base for the remarkable ruins at Saepinum. If you happen to be around sixty days after Easter, don’t miss the town’s spectacular Corpus Domini Sagra dei Misteri procession, in which citizens are dressed as saints, angels and devils, inserted into fantastic contraptions and transported, seemingly suspended in mid-air, through the streets. At any other time of the year the most notable attraction is the Samnite Museum (daily 8.30am–6pm; free) at Via Chiarizia 14, with statues and a scattering of archeological ﬁnds from the area, most notably the haunting contents of a Longobard tomb, a warrior buried alongside his horse. Steep alleys of the old upper town lead up to a couple of Romanesque churches – San Bartolomeo, which has eerily contorted ﬁgures carved around its main door, and San Giorgio, whose entrance displays a dragon surrounded by stylized ﬂowers. At the top of the hill are a monastery and sixteenth-century castle. Call ahead or drop in at the city hall to visit the castle, from which there is a panorama over the environs and the historical centre’s borgo antico below. The tourist office (Mon & Wed 8am–2pm & 3–6pm, Tues, Thurs & Fri 8am–2pm; T 08744.15.662) at Piazza della Vittoria 14 (Staircase C, third ﬂoor) in the new town has details of local events and bus routes to elsewhere in the province. There are some excellent restaurants in Campobasso. Among them is La Grotta (also known as Concetta), Via Larino 7 (T 0874.311.378; closed Sat & Sun), where you can sate yourself on solid home-cooking for not much more than €20, and if you’re lucky you’ll get some of the family’s home-produced salami. Otherwise, Miseria e Nobiltà, Via Sant’Antonio Abate 16 (T 0874.94.268; closed Sun), does excellent, innovative local dishes.

Saepinum

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SAEPINUM, a ruined Roman town to the south, close to the border with Puglia, is arguably the most interesting sight in Molise. Some 3km from the nearest village and surrounded by a lush plain fringed with the foothills of the Matese mountains, it’s the best example in Italy of a provincial Roman town. The main reason Saepinum is so intact is that it was never very important: nothing much happened here, and after the fall of the Roman Empire it carried

The site

| Travel details

Depending on whether you arrive by bus or by car, the entrance to Saepinum (daily 8am–7pm; free) is through the Porta Terravecchia or the Porta Tammaro, two of the town’s four gates. The site is bisected by the cardo maximus (running north–south), still paved with the original stones and crossed by the decumanus maximus. In Roman city planning, this intersection marked the centre of town, home to the public buildings and trading quarters. On the left, grass spills through the cracks in the pavement of the forum, now used by the few local kids as a football pitch, bordered by the foundations of various municipal buildings: the comitium (assembly place), the curia (senate house), a temple, baths, and in the centre a fountain with a relief of a griffin. Beyond the forum, on the left of the decumanus, the Casa Impluvio Sannitico contains a vat to collect rainwater, a remnant from the Samnite town that stood on the site before the Romans sacked it in 293 BC. Back down the decumanus on the other side of the crossroads is the well-preserved basilica that served as the main courthouse. Beyond is the most interesting part of the town – the octagonal macellum (marketplace), with its small stone stalls and central rain-collecting dish, and a series of houses fronted by workshops, with the small living quarters behind. This leads down to the best-preserved gate, the Porta Boiano, ﬂanked by cylindrical towers with a relief showing two barbarians and chained prisoners. There is also a small museum with artefacts and artwork recovered during excavation (Tues–Sun: April–Oct 9am–1.30pm & 3–6pm; Nov– March 9am–1pm & 3–5pm; €2).

ABRUZ Z O AND M OL I S E

on as the sleepy backwater it had always been – until the ninth century when it was sacked by Saracens. Over the centuries its inhabitants added only a handful of farms and cottages, incorporating the odd Roman column, and eventually moved south to the more secure hilltop site of present-day Sepino. Some have now moved back and rebuilt the farms and cottages on Saepinum’s peripheries, contributing if anything to the site’s appeal. Their sheep graze below an ancient mausoleum, chickens scratch around the walls, and the only sounds are the tinkling of cowbells. Saepinum is accessible by bus from Campobasso – either catch one of the three daily buses that stop right outside the site at Altilia (Mon–Sat) or take the more frequent bus to Sepino (12 daily Mon–Sat; W www.lariverabus.it) and walk the remaining 3km to Saepinum. Buses return to Campobasso from the archeological site (enquire at ticket office for times). By road, look for signs to Sepino.

Travel details Trains Campobasso to: Naples (4 daily; 3hr); Rome (5 daily; 3hr); Térmoli (9 daily; 1hr 45min). Isernia to: Campobasso (12 daily; 1hr); Rome (5 daily; 2–3hr). L’Aquila to: Rome via Terni (10 daily; 3hr–3hr 30min); Sulmona (10 daily; 1hr 40min); Terni (10 daily; 2hr 20min). Pescara to: Ancona (25 daily; 1–2hr); Rome (4 daily; 4hr); Sulmona (18 daily; 1hr–1hr 10min);

Térmoli (hourly; 40min–1hr 10min); Vasto (15 daily; 50min). Sulmona to: Avezzano (10 daily; 1hr 15min); Celano (9 daily; 1hr). Térmoli to: Fóggia (18 daily; 1hr).

Buses Atri to: Pescara (8 daily; 1hr). Avezzano to: Pescasséroli (5 daily; 1hr 30min). Chieti to: Rome (4 daily; 2hr 50min–4hr 55min). Isernia to: Campobasso (9 daily; 1hr).

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ABRUZ Z O AND M OL I S E

| Travel details 730

L’Aquila to: Bominaco (4 daily; 1hr); Rome (14 daily; 1hr 40min); Sulmona (5 daily; 2hr); Téramo (11 daily; 1hr). Pescara to: Atri (11 daily; 1hr); Chieti (every 20min; 40min); L’Aquila (11 daily; 1hr 50min); Rome (6 daily; 3hr–4hr 20min); Sulmona (3 daily; 1hr 30min). Sulmona to: Cocullo (1 daily; 40min); Scanno (7 daily; 1hr–1hr 30min).

Téramo to: Atri (5 daily; 1hr 10min). Térmoli to: Isernia (4 daily; 1hr 25min–2hr).

Ferries Pescara to: Stari Grad (daily; 3hr 45min); Split (daily; 5hr 45min). Térmoli to: Trémiti islands (2 ferries & 2 hydrofoils daily in summer, 1 ferry daily in winter; 40min–1hr 40min).

J CAMPANI A

Campania

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CHAPTER 13

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✱

Highlights

| Highlights

Centro Storico, Naples Still following the street plan of the original Greco-Roman settlement, Naples’ ancient centre is unique both above and below ground. See p.745

ancient Roman daily life and architecture. See p.759 & p.761

✱

Cápri A jewel of an island with stunning scenery and cliff walks. See p.768

✱

Museo Archeologic A superb museum with a wealth of Greek and Roman artefacts. See p.750

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Ischia Larger than Cápri and better able to absorb the visitors – as well as being no less alluring. See p.774

✱

Herculaneum and Pompeii These sites afford an unparalleled glimpse into

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Paestum Majestic Greek temples and colourful tomb paintings. See p.790

732

Walking on Cápri

J CAMPANI A

Campania

| he region immediately south of Lazio, Campania, marks the real beginning of the Italian South or mezzogiorno. It’s the part of the South too, perhaps inevitably, that most people see, as it’s easily accessible from Rome and home to some of the area’s (indeed Italy’s) most notable features – Roman sites, spectacular stretches of coast, tiny islands. It’s always been a sought-after region, ﬁrst named by the Romans, who tagged it the campania felix, or “happy land” (to distinguish it from the rather dull campagna further north), and settled down here in villas and palatial estates that stretched right around the Bay of Naples. Later, when Naples became the ﬁnal stop on northerners’ Grand Tours, its bay became no less fabled, the relics of its heady Roman period only adding to the charm for most travellers. Naples is the obvious focus, an utterly compelling city and one that dominates the region in every way. Taking one of the fastest trains, you can reach it now in a little over an hour from the capital, and there’s no excuse for not seeing at least this part of Campania – though of course you need three or four days to absorb the city properly, before embarking on the remarkable attractions surrounding it. The Bay of Naples, certainly, is dense enough in interest to occupy you for a good week: there are the ancient sites of Pompeii and Herculaneum just half an hour away – arguably Italy’s best-preserved and most revealing Roman remains; there is the amazing, volcanic Campi Flegrei area to the northwest of the city; and of course there are the islands, Cápri, Ischia and Prócida. Cápri swarms with visitors but is so beautiful that it’s a shame to come to the area and miss it, while Ischia, which is the largest island and absorbs tourists more readily, is a lively and attractive place in which you could while away an entire holiday. Inland Campania is, by contrast, a poor, unknown region for the most part, though the giant palace and gardens of Caserta are worth visiting, while Benevento, an old stop on the Roman route to Bríndisi, has a ﬂavour that’s quite distinct from the coastal regions. The area south of Naples has more immediate appeal. Sorrento, at the far southeast end of the bay, is a major package-holiday destination, and as cheery and likeable a resort as you’ll ever visit; and the Amalﬁ Coast, across the peninsula, is perhaps Europe’s most dramatic stretch of coastline, whose enticing and sometimes exclusive resorts – Positano and Amalﬁ – need little introduction. Further south, the lively port of Salerno gives access to the Hellenistic site of Paestum and the relatively uncrowded coastline of the Cilento just beyond.

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| Naples

PARCO REGIONALE CAMPI Cumae FLEGREI

Naples

PARCO Avellino NAZIONALE A16 VESUVIO

BASILICATA Salerno

Potenza Éboli Matera

Pozzuoli Mt. Vesuvius Torregaveta Báia Ercolano Torre del Greco Prócida Pompeii Miseno Torre Annunziata Forio Ischia Castellammare di Stábia Ravello Ischia Golfo Positano di Napoli Sorrento Amalﬁ Praiano Anacápri Cápri

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Golfo di Salerno Paestum

PARCO NAZIONALE DEL CILENTO

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Whatever your real interest in Campania, the chances are that you’ll wind up in NAPLES (Napoli), the capital of the region and, indeed, of the whole Italian South. It’s the kind of city that is laden with preconceptions, and it rarely disappoints: it is ﬁlthy, it is very large and overbearing, it is crimeinfested, and it is most deﬁnitely like nowhere else in Italy – something the inhabitants will be keener than anyone to tell you. In Naples, all the pride and resentment of the Italian south, all the historical differences between the two wildly disparate halves of Italy, are sharply brought into focus. This is the true heart of the mezzogiorno, a lawless, petulant, yet ﬁercely Catholic city that has its own way of doing things. There’s plenty to see – the city’s Duomo, Palazzo Reale and a couple of impressive museums in the Capidomonte gallery and archeological museum – but it’s not so much a city of sights as just a great place to be, particularly its dense centro storico. Spend a couple of days here and you’re likely to be as staunch a defender of the place as its most devoted inhabitants.

Some history

CAMPANI A

| Naples

There was a settlement here, Parthenope, as early as the ninth century BC, which was superseded by a Greek colony in 750 BC, which they gave the name Neapolis. It prospered during Greek and later Roman times, and remained independent until the Normans took the city in 1139. The Normans weren’t here for long: like the rest of this region, the city soon came under the rule of the Hohenstaufen dynasty, who stayed rather half-heartedly until 1269, when their last king, Conradin, was beheaded in what’s now Piazza del Mercato, and the Angevins took over the city. With one exception – Robert the Wise, who was a gentle and enlightened ruler and made the city a great centre for the arts – the Angevin kings ruled badly, in the end losing Naples to Alfonso I of Aragon in 1422, thus establishing a Spanish connection for the city for the next three hundred years. Following the War of the Spanish Succession, Naples was brieﬂy ceded to the Austrians, before being taken, to general rejoicing, by Charles of Bourbon in 1734. Charles was a cultivated and judicious monarch, but his dissolute son Ferdinand presided over a shambolic period in the city’s history, abandoning it to the republican French. Their “Parthenopean Republic” here was short-lived, and the British re-installed the Bourbon monarch, carrying out vicious reprisals against the rebels. The instigator of these reprisals was Admiral Nelson – fresh from his victory at the Battle of the Nile – who was famously having an affair with Lady Hamilton, the wife of the British ambassador to Naples. Under continuing Bourbon rule, the city became one of the largest in Europe, and a requisite stop on the Grand Tour, a position it enjoyed not so much for its proximity to the major classical sites as for

Regional food and wine The ﬂavour of Naples dominates the whole of Campania. It’s the true home of the pizza, rapidly baked in searingly hot wood-ﬁred ovens and running with olive oil, as well as fantastic street food, served in numerous outlets known as friggitorie – sample delicacies such as fried pizzas (pizzette or panzarotti), heavenly crocchè (potato croquettes), arancini (rice balls) and ﬁorilli (courgette ﬂowers in batter). Naples is also the home of pasta and tomato sauce, made with fresh tomatoes and basil, and laced with garlic. Aubergines and courgettes turn up endlessly in pasta sauces, as does the tomato–mozzarella pairing (the regions to the north and east of Naples are the home of mozzarella), the latter particularly good with gnocchi. Seafood is excellent all along the coast: clams combine with garlic and oil for superb spaghetti alle vongole; mussels are often prepared as zuppa di cozze (with hot pepper sauce and croutons); fresh squid and octopus are ubiquitous. There are loads of great pastries: not to be missed is the sfogliatella, a ﬂaky triangular pastry-case stuffed with ricotta and candied peel, and the fragrant Easter cake, pastiera, made with ricotta and softened wheat grain. Further to the south, the marshy plains of the Cilento produce fabulous strawberries, artichokes and mozzarella cheese – much of the mozzarella that comes from here is made from pure buffalo milk, unmixed with cow’s milk. The volcanic slopes of Vesuvius are among the most ancient wine-producing areas in Italy, but despite that the region doesn’t have a great reputation for wine. The best choices for a Campanian white are Greco di Tufo, Fiano di Avellino and Falanghina – all fruity yet dry. Ischia also produces good whites, notably Biancolella, while Lacryma Christi, from the slopes of Mount Vesuvius, is available in red and white varieties and is enjoying a resurgence after years of being considered cheap plonk. Among pure reds, there’s the unusual but delicious Gragnano, a red sparkling wine that’s best served slightly chilled, and Taurasi – like the best wines of the region made from the local Aglianico grape.

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Ospedale Cardarelli (Cardarelli Hospital)

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| Naples

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ACCOMMODATION Ausonia Capella Vecchia 11 Casanova Chiaja Hotel De Charme Chiatamone B&B Grand Hotel Parker’s Miramare Ostello Mergellina Parteno Pinto-Storey

EATING & DRINKING Al Faretto 16 Attanasio 2 Barcadero 14 Chalet Ciro 13 Da Dora 6 Da Ettore 9 Da Pasqualino 12 Donna Teresa 3 Enoteca Belledonne 7 Gorizia 4 Marino 11 Mimi alla Ferrovia 1 Remy Gelo 10 Umberto 5 Vinarium 8 Virgilio Club 15

Ferries & hydrofoils to Cápri, Ischia

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| Naples

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See 'Central Naples' map for detail IOVA

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| Naples: Arrival, information and city transport 738

the ready availability of sex. Naples was for a long time the prostitution capital of the Continent, and its reputation drew people from far and wide, giving new meaning (in the days when syphilis was rife) to the phrase “See Naples and die”. More recently, Naples and its surrounding area have been the recipient of much of the government and EU money that has poured into the Italian South. But the real power in the area is still in the hands of organized crime or the Camorra, with the result that there’s been little real improvement in the living standards of the average Neapolitan: a very high percentage remain unemployed, and a large number still inhabit the typically Neapolitan one-room bassi, letting in no light and housing many in overcrowded conditions. Antonio Bassolino, mayor of the city from 1993 until 2000 and currently president of Campania, has done much to promote Naples and its attractions, and scores of neglected churches, museums and palaces have been restored and are now open to the public. There’s also been a burst of creative activity from local ﬁlmmakers, songwriters and artists, with a thriving contemporary art scene manifest in two new large galleries. However, the Camorra still cast a long shadow over modern Naples, as highlighted by Roberto Saviano’s recent bestselling book and much-publicized ﬁlm, Gomorrah, and the city’s 2008 rubbish crisis. No tourist is going to come into contact with the Camorra, but its hold on Naples seems to be as strong as ever.

Arrival, information and city transport Naples’ Capodichino airport (T 081.789.6111 Mon–Fri 8am–4pm, W www.gesac .it) is only about 7km north of the city centre and very well connected. ANM bus #C58 runs to Piazza Garibaldi (the stop is in front of the station at the McDonald’s corner) every thirty minutes, and the journey takes about twenty minutes; buy tickets (€1.10) from the tabacchi in the departures hall. There’s also an official airport bus, Alibus, also operated by ANM (T 081.763.2177), which runs to both Piazza Garibaldi and Piazza Municipio every twenty minutes between 6.30am and 11.50pm (6am–midnight in the opposite direction), but it isn’t very much quicker and tickets cost €3. Taxis tend to take about as long as buses to reach the centre, and cost €16–20. You can also reach Salerno and Sorrento direct from the airport; buses leave for Sorrento every 1–2hr and the journey takes an hour and a half, and there are four departures a day to Salerno – an hour’s journey. By train, you’re most likely to arrive at Napoli Centrale, situated on the edge of the city centre at one end of Piazza Garibaldi, at the main hub of city and suburban transport services; there’s a left-luggage office here (open 24hr). Some trains also pull into Stazione Mergellina, on the opposite side of the city centre, which is connected with Piazza Garibaldi by the underground metropolitana. City and suburban buses also stop on Piazza Garibaldi, though you’ll need to check the stops carefully as they are not well signed and are subject to change while the square is undergoing construction of the new metro line. CTP (T 800.482.644, W www.ctpn.it) runs buses to Caserta, and A.IR (T 0825.204.250, W www.air -spa.it) to Benevento from here. The main company, SITA (T 089.405.145, W www.sitabus.it), which connects with Pompeii, Sorrento, the Amalﬁ Coast and Salerno, leaves from Via G. Ferraris, just south of the Stazione Centrale and from its main office at Via Pisanelli 3/7, just off Piazza Municipio.

Information There is a Naples tourist office desk (W www.inaples.it) at Capodichino airport (daily 8am–11pm), and two offices in the centre of the city, on Piazza del

Campania artecard

City transport The best way to get around central Naples and stay sane is to walk. Driving can be a nightmare, and to negotiate the narrow streets, hectic squares and racetrack boulevards on a moped or scooter takes years of training. In any case, not to walk would mean you’d miss a lot – Naples is the kind of place best appreciated from street level. For longer journeys there are a number of alternatives, both for the city itself and the bay as a whole, and the system, most of which is run by ANM, is pretty well integrated. City buses will get you almost everywhere, although they are crowded and slow. The bus system is supplemented by the metropolitana, a small-scale underground network that crosses the city centre, stopping at about four places between Piazza Garibaldi and Mergellina, and runs eventually out to Pozzuoli in about thirty minutes; new stations – at Duomo, Piazza Municipio and Via Toledo – are in the pipeline, as evidenced by the construction chaos in these locations. In addition, three funiculars scale the hill of the Vómero: one, the Funicolare di Chiaia, from Piazza Amedeo; another, the Funicolare Centrale, from the Augusteo station, just off the bottom end of Via Toledo; and a third, the Funicolare di Montesanto, from the station on Piazza Montesanto. A fourth, the Funicolare di Mergellina, runs up the hill above Mergellina from Via Mergellina. Uniconapoli tickets for all ANM modes of transport cost a ﬂat €1.10 for all journeys (valid 90min) and must be bought in advance from such places as tabacchi, newsstands, stations, or the transport booth on Piazza Garibaldi. An all-day ticket costs €3.10 (€2.60 at the weekend), or you can buy a three-day tourist ticket for €20, which allows travel throughout Campania, including the airport bus, island buses and beyond. If you need to take a taxi make sure the driver switches on the meter when you start (they often don’t), or request a ﬂat fare at the beginning of the journey – which you can do (there are published rates to key locations that taxi drivers have to adhere to if requested); otherwise fares start at €3 for the initial journey, €5.50 at night or on weekends. Note that journeys to and from the airport incur an extra charge of €2.60. There are taxi ranks at the train station, on Piazza Dante, Piazza del Gesù, Piazza Trieste e Trento and Piazza dei Martiri, among other places.

| Naples: Arrival, information and city transport

Gesù Nuovo (Mon–Sat 9.30am–1.30pm & 2.30–6.30pm, Sun 9am–1.30pm; T 081.551.2701), and opposite the Teatro San Carlo at Via San Carlo 9 (Mon–Sat 9.30am–1.30pm & 2.30–6.30pm, Sun 9am–1.30pm; T 081.402.394). At each of them you can pick up a free city map and an English-language copy of the monthly Qui Napoli, a useful reference on the city and an indicator of what’s on, as well as a decent free transport map, which details all of the many public transport options in and around the city (see below).

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If you’re considering visiting several museums and sights in Naples and around, it might be worth investing in a Campania artecard, which gives you free admission to various sights and reductions on many others, as well as free travel on public transport. Most of the big attractions – in Naples and beyond – are included, and there are various combinations, ranging from a three-day pass providing access to ﬁve sights in the city centre, not including transport (€12/€10 for 18–25s), to a three-day pass for the entire region, including free transport, free admission to two sights and ﬁfty percent off the others (€27/€20 for 18–25s). You can buy the cards at any of the participating museums or at tourist ofﬁces and Napoli Stazione Centrale. More details at Wwww.campaniartecard.it (T800.600.601), or tourist ofﬁces have leaﬂets.

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Useful bus routes

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| Naples: Accommodation

#R1 Piazza Medaglie d’Oro–Via Salvator Rosa–Piazza Dante–Via Toledo–Via Medina–Piazza Municipio–Via Monteoliveto–Piazza Dante–Piazza Museo–Via Salvator Rosa–Piazza Medaglie d’Oro. #R2 Piazza Garibaldi–Corso Umberto I–Piazza Bovio–Via Depretis–Piazza Municipio–Via San Carlo–Piazza Trieste e Trento–Piazza Municipio–Via Medina–Via Sanfelice–Corso Umberto I–Piazza Garibaldi. #R3 Mergellina Funicolare–Via Mergellina–Via Riviera di Chiaia–Piazza Municipio–Via Medina–Via Toledo–Piazza Municipio–Via San Carlo–Piazza Trieste e Trento–Piazza Municipio–Via Riviera di Chiaia–Mergellina Funicolare. #R4 Via Cardarelli–Via Capodimonte–Piazza Dante–Via Depretis–Piazza Dante–Via Capodimonte–Via Cardarelli. #E1 Piazza del Gesù–Via Mezzocannone–Via Santa Chiara–Via Duomo–Via Foria– Via Duomo–Via dei Tribunali–Corso Umberto I–Via Monteoliveto–Piazza del Gesù. #140 Capo Posillipo–Via Posillipo–Via Mergellina–Via Caracciolo–Piazza Vittoria–Via Santa Lucia–Via Chiamatone–Piazza Vittoria–Via Riviera di Chiaia–Via Mergellina– Via Posillipo–Capo Posillipo. #N1 (night bus) Piazzale Tecchio–Viale Augusto–Via Fuorigrotta–Via Riviera di Chiaia– Via Caracciolo–Piazza Vittoria–Via Partenope–Via Santa Lucia–Via Depretis–Via Medina–Corso Umberto I–Piazza Garibaldi–Corso Umberto I–Via Medina–Piazza Municipio–Via Santa Lucia–Via Chiatamone–Piazza Vittoria–Via Riviera di Chiaia–Via Piedigrotta–Viale Augusto–Piazzale Tecchio. For more details on public transport – the frequency of the rail lines, ferries etc, see p.769 and “Travel details”, on p.793.

For solely out-of-town trips – around the bay in either direction – or sometimes to get from one side of the centre to another, there are three further rail systems. The Circumvesuviana runs from Porta Nolana station, on Corso Garibaldi, just off Piazza Garibaldi, as well as Napoli Centrale, right around Vesuvius and the southern part of the Bay of Naples every thirty minutes, stopping everywhere as far south as Sorrento, which it reaches in about an hour; it’s most useful for getting to Ercolano, Pompeii, and of course Sorrento. In the opposite direction, the Ferrovia Cumana operates regularly from its terminus station in Piazza Montesanto west to Pozzuoli and Baía, as does the Circumﬂegrea, which follows a different route to the same terminal at Torregevata. Unicanapoli tickets are valid for all these suburban lines except the Circumvesuviana, for which tickets can be bought at any train station; tickets are cheap – €1.80 to Ercolano, Pompeii €2.40, and €3.40 to Sorrento. Finally ferries – to the islands and other places in the Bay of Naples, including Sorrento, and along the Amalﬁ Coast – run from the Milo Beverello main ferry terminal, and also from Mergellina – see p.769 for more details on these.

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Accommodation prices in Naples may come as a refreshing change after the north of Italy, but they’re still not cheap, and you need to choose carefully from among the cheaper dives. A good many of these are situated around Piazza Garibaldi, spitting distance from the train station but rather insalubrious and noisy, and poorly placed for going out at night. A better bet is the lively and more atmospheric centro storico, where boutique hotels and small B&Bs are opening up all the time. If you can, try

to book in advance, as the city gets busy in high season. Ignore the touts hanging around the station: quite apart from safety issues, you’ll be charged commission.

Hotels and B&Bs Centro storico and Piazza Garibaldi

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| Naples: Accommodation

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All the accommodation listed below is marked on the Central Naples map below, unless otherwise stated.

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Caravaggio Piazza Riario Sforza 157 T081.211.0066, W www.caravaggiohotel.it. Right in the thick of things on the edge of Forcella, just around the corner from the Duomo, but quiet enough, on its own small square – which some

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EATING & DRINKING Antica Osteria Pisano Bellini Bourbon Street Da Michele Di Matteo Gambrinus Gay Odin Intra Moenia Kinky Club La Cantina di Via Sapienza La Stanza del Gusto Lombardi a S. Chiara Osteria da Carmela Scaturchio

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| Naples: Accommodation 742

of the nicer rooms in this elegant old palazzo overlook. 5 Casanova Via Venezia 2 T 081.268.287, W www.hotelcasanova.com. See map, pp.736–737. Best of the station-area budget options, this creeper-clad hotel is quiet, run by an affable team, and has pleasant rooms (most of which are en suite) and a communal roof terrace. 2 Correra 241 Via Correra 241 T081.1956.2842, W www.correra.it. This well-located budget option has a deliberately contemporary feel, with bright primary colours and minimalist furnishings throughout. A good location too, ﬁve minutes from Piazza Dante and the centro storico. 3 Costantinopoli 104 Via S. Maria di Costantinopoli 104 T081.557.1035, W www.costantinopoli104.it. A posh boutique hotel with its own garden and swimming pool in a quiet building just off Piazza Bellini. The rooms and common areas are stylishly furnished with modern design elements. Really one of the nicest places to stay in the city centre. 6 Donna Regina B&B Via L. Settembrini 80 T 081.446.799, Wwww.discovernaples.net. Inside the former Donnaregina convent, each room of this lovely and welcoming B&B is spacious and uniquely decorated. The same owner has other B&Bs elsewhere in the city, as well as self-catering apartments to rent. 3 Duomo Via Duomo 228 T081.265.988, W www .hotelduomonapoli.it. This place is nothing special, but it has been recently refurbished and its prices are still among the lowest in town. Most rooms face onto a tranquil internal courtyard and all are en suite. Very welcoming too. 2 Il Convento Via Speranzella 137/A T081.403.997, W www.hotelilconvento.com. Situated in the Quartieri Spagnoli, just two blocks off Via Toledo, this three-star has decent, cosy rooms, two of which have their own roof terraces. 5 Piazza Bellini Via Santa Maria di Costantinopoli 101 T081.451.732, Wwww .hotelpiazzabellini.com. Stylish yet unpretentious and friendly contemporary hotel housed in a lightﬂooded high-ceilinged Renaissance palazzo, a short walk from both the archeological museum and Spaccanapoli. There’s a secluded courtyard, and 48 spacious rooms with unfussy custom-designed furniture – the best have huge terraces looking over the city to Vesuvius. 4 Romeo Via Cristoforo Colombo 45 T081.017.5011, Wwww.romeohotel.it. This new designer hotel is a somewhat incongruous sight on the busy yet slightly dilapidated stretch of Naples’ waterfront. But it’s undeniably convenient, almost opposite

the ferry terminal, and is the ultimate in the city’s resurgent style, with cool, almost clinically furnished rooms, a comfy yet stylish lobby and a very upscale restaurant and sushi bar. 7

Santa Lucia, Chiaia and Mergellina All the accommodation listed below is marked on the Naples map on pp.736–737. Ausonia Via Caracciolo 11 T081.682.278, Wwww.hotelausonianapoli.com. A two-star decorated to give the impression you’re on a yacht, neatly placed in Mergellina, next to the stop for hydrofoils to the islands. 3 Capella Vecchia 11 Vicolo Santa Maria a Capella Vecchia 11 T081.240.5117, W www.cappella vecchia11.it. Just off Piazza dei Martiri, this small bed and breakfast has six simple but brightly furnished en-suite rooms with free wi-ﬁ and breakfast included. A warm welcome, too, from the young, friendly owners. 3 Chiaja Hotel De Charme Via Chiaia 216 T081.415.555, Wwww.hotelchiaia.it. Lovely, old-fashioned hotel near Piazza del Plebiscito. The rooms have been fashioned from an eighteenthcentury patrician home with all the antique furniture and old-world style to prove it. 5 Chiatamone B&B Via Chiatamone 6 T081.060.8129, W www.hotelchiatamone.it. This small B&B has six spacious and well-equipped rooms in a variety of conﬁgurations, including two family rooms with kitchens. It’s fairly plain but very friendly and the rooms are well furnished and clean. 3 Grand Hotel Parker’s Corso Vittorio Emanuele 135 T081.761.2474, Wwww.grandhotelparkers .it. This upmarket and extremely comfortable hotel claims to be the oldest in Naples, and has hosted Oscar Wilde and Virginia Woolf, as well as King Vittorio Emanuele himself. It has an exalted vantage point over the city – the views from the dining room across the bay and east to Vesuvius are unparalleled. 8 Miramare Via N. Sauro 24 T081.764.7589, Wwww.hotelmiramare.com. A great location on the waterfront a little way down from the Palazzo Reale, this Art Nouveau gem is the less obvious – and cheaper – alternative to the giant and more impersonal palaces nearby, with a more homely feel and a warmer welcome. 6 Parteno Via Partenope 1 T081.245.2095, Wwww.parteno.it. Seven individually designed and beautifully furnished rooms in an eighteenthcentury building near Villa Communale. Great breakfasts and wonderful attention to detail from the owners. 4

Pinto-Storey Via Martucci 72 T 081.681.260, W www.pintostorey.it. Occupying an evocative Art Nouveau building in Chiaia, the rooms are

attractively furnished and many have views of the bay. 4

Hostels

| Naples: The City

furnished doubles, both en suite and with shared bathrooms, a couple of ﬂoors down, at 2–10 percent discount with this book. 2 Naples Pizza Hostel Via San Paolo ai Tribunali 44 T081.1932.3562, Wwww.naplespizzahostel.com. See map, p.741. Run by the same owners as the Bella Capri, this new hostel is a bit cheaper than its sister and very well located right in the heart of the old centre. Dorm beds from €18, private rooms 1 Ostello Mergellina Salita della Grotta 23 T081.761.2346, W www.hihostels.com. See map, pp.736–737. A popular, ofﬁcial youth hostel with a view of the bay, and conveniently located not far from the Mergellina metro station. Dorms are six-bed maximum and breakfast is included, though there’s a three-day maximum stay in July & Aug. Dorm beds cost from €13, private rooms 1

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Bella Capri Via Melisurgo 4 T081.552.9494, W www.bellacapri.it. See map, p.741. This upperﬂoor hostel is virtually a neighbour of the swanky new Romeo a few doors down and enjoys an equally handy location right opposite the ferry terminal. It has a mixture of dorm beds and private rooms, internet access, and a large, light and airy breakfast room. Dorm beds go for €20 in high season; 10 percent discount with this book on private rooms. 2 Hostel of the Sun Via Melisurgo 15 T 081.420.6393, W www.hostelnapoli.com. See map, p.741. Almost opposite the Bella Cápri, just off the main waterfront, this is perhaps the best and friendliest hostel in Naples – well placed for going out and with no curfew. Dorm beds €20, breakfast included, and it has a range of nicely

Campsites The closest campsite to Naples is the excellent and unique Vulcano Solfatara site in Pozzuoli at Via Solfatara 47 (T 081.526.2341, W www.solfatara.it; €9.80 per person, plus from €5.40 per tent; 1 for double bungalow); take the metropolitana to Pozzuoli and walk ten minutes up the hill. It’s open all year.

The City Naples is a large, sprawling city, with a centre that has many different focuses. The area between Piazza Garibaldi and Via Toledo, roughly corresponding to the old Roman Neapolis (much of which is still unexcavated below the ground), makes up the old part of the city – the centro storico – the main streets still following the path of the old Roman roads. This is much the liveliest and most teeming part of town, an open-air kasbah of hawking, yelling humanity that makes up in energy what it lacks in grace. Buildings rise high on either side of the narrow, crowded streets, cobwebbed with washing; there’s little light, not even much sense of the rest of the city outside – certainly not of the proximity of the sea. But the insularity of the centro storico is deceptive, and in reality there’s another, quite different side to Naples, one that’s much more like the sunwashed Bay of Naples murals you’ve seen in cheap restaurants back home. Via Toledo, the main street of the city, edges the old centre from the Palazzo Reale up to the Museo Nazionale Archeologico and the heights of Capodimonte; to the west rises the Vómero, with its fancy housing and museums, and the slightly smug neighbourhood of Chiaia, beyond which lies the long green boulevard of Riviera de Chiaia, stretching around to the districts of Mergellina and Posillipo: all neighbourhoods that exert quite a different kind of pull – that of an airy waterfront city, with views, seafood eaten alfresco, and relative peace and quiet.

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Piazza Garibaldi and around

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| Naples: The City

However you get to Naples, there’s a good chance that the ﬁrst place you’ll see is Piazza Garibaldi, a long, wide square crisscrossed by traffic lanes, that cuts into the city centre from the modern train station. It’s the city’s transport hub – most of the city buses leave from here, as do the metropolitana and Circumvesuviana lines – and one of its most hectic junctions; indeed it’s Piazza Garibaldi, perhaps more so than any other part of the city, that puts people off Naples. The entire piazza is currently a vast construction site due to work on the new metro; pedestrians are blocked by steel walls and challenged by traffic at every turn, especially when trying to reach the bus stops at the opposite side of the piazza. Of late, the area around here has also become a centre for Naples’ growing African community, with a number of African restaurants and Moroccan groceries, and don’t be surprised to hear Slavic accents too – many Ukrainians ﬁnd their way here to work as housekeepers in the city. Off the far right corner of the square, the Porta Capuana is one of several relics from the Aragonese city walls, a sturdy defensive gate dating from 1490, delicately decorated on one side in Florentine Renaissance style. Across the road, the white and much renovated Castel Capuano was the residence of the Norman king William I, and later, under the Spanish, became a courthouse – which it still is. Behind here, the FORCELLA quarter, which spreads down to Corso Umberto I and across as far as Via Duomo, is an introduction to the old centre of Naples, an open-air market, stamping-ground of CD and sunglasses hawkers, contraband seafood sellers and a quantity of food stalls that make it one of the city’s best places to wander. It’s also one of the main city-centre strongholds of the Camorra and home to its most important families, and not an especially friendly place at night. Off the opposite, far left corner of Piazza Garibaldi, Via Garibaldi runs down to the sea, past the main Circumvesuviana terminal, and, on the right, the Porta Nolana, a solid-looking Aragonese gateway surrounded by the stalls of the city’s ﬁsh market. Further down, towards the water, the church of Santa Maria del Carmine dates back to the thirteenth century and is traditionally the church of the poor in Naples, particularly ﬁshermen and mariners – the main port area is close by. Axel Munthe, the Swedish writer and resident of Cápri, used to sleep here after tending to victims of the 1884 cholera outbreak. Just west, the still war-damaged Piazza del Mercato was for centuries where criminals were executed by hanging, and is a bleak, dusty square even now. There’s little to detain you in this part of town, and you may as well cut back up to Corso Umberto I, which spears through the old part of the city. Known as the “rettiﬁlo”, it makes its long straight journey from the seedy gatherings of prostitutes and kerb crawlers at Piazza Garibaldi, past many of the city’s more mainstream shops, to the symmetrical Piazza Bovio – currently disrupted by more metro system workings. From here Via Duomo heads up the hill to the right, dividing Forcella from the centro storico on its left-hand side.

The Duomo and around

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The Duomo (Mon–Sat 8.30am–12.30pm & 4.30–7.30pm, Sun 8am–1.30pm & 5–7.30pm), tucked away unassumingly from the main street, is a Gothic building from the early thirteenth century (though with a late nineteenth-century neo-Gothic facade) dedicated to the patron saint of the city, San Gennaro. The church – and saint – are key reference points for Neapolitans: San Gennaro was martyred at Pozzuoli, just outside Naples, in 305 AD under the purges of Diocletian. Tradition has it that, when his body was transferred here, two phials of his dried blood liqueﬁed

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in the bishop’s hands, since which time the “miracle” has continued to repeat itself no fewer than three times a year – on the ﬁrst Saturday in May (when a procession leads from the church of Santa Chiara to the cathedral) and on September 19 and December 16. There is still a great deal of superstition surrounding this event: San Gennaro is seen as the saviour and protector of Naples, and if the blood refuses to liquefy – which luckily is rare – disaster is supposed to befall the city, and many still wait with bated breath to see if the miracle has occurred. Interestingly, one of the few occasions in recent times that Gennaro’s blood hasn’t turned was in 1944, an event followed by Vesuvius’s last eruption. The last times were in 1980, the year of the earthquake, and in 1988, the day after which Naples lost an important football match to their rivals, Milan. The miraculous liquefaction takes place during a special Mass in full view of the congregation – a service it’s perfectly possible to attend, though the church authorities have yet to allow any close scientiﬁc examination of the blood or the “miraculous” process. Whatever the truth of the miracle, there’s no question it’s still a signiﬁcant event in the Neapolitan calendar, and one of the more bizarre of the city’s institutions. The third chapel on the right as you walk into the cathedral is dedicated to San Gennaro. It’s an eye-bogglingly ornate affair, practically a church in its own right, containing the precious phials of the saint’s blood and his skull in a silver bust-reliquary from 1305 (stored behind the altar except for ceremonies). On the other side of the cathedral, the basilica of Santa Restituta actually is a separate church, officially the oldest structure in Naples, erected by Constantine in 324 and supported by columns that were taken from a temple to Apollo on this site. Off to the right of the main altar, you pay extra to visit the baptistry (Mon–Sat 8.30am–noon & 4.30–6.30pm, Sun 8.30am–1pm; €3), which also contains relics from very early Christian times, including late ﬁfth-century mosaics and a font believed to have been taken from a temple to Dionysus. The same ticket gives you entry to the excavations below the church, which are open the same hours and also accessed from here – remains of a still earlier church basically, along with bits and pieces from the Roman and even Greek ancient cities. Finally be sure to also see the crypt of San Gennaro, founded by Cardinal Carafa and holding an altar dedicated to the saint complete with his bones. MADRE

Just off the top end of Via Duomo, the Museo d’Art Contemporaneo Donnaregina – MADRE for short – at Via Settembrini 79 (daily except Tues 10am–9pm, Sat & Sun 10am–midnight; €7; W www.museomadre.it) is emblematic of Naples’ rebirth as a creative city. Created in 2005, it hosts temporary exhibitions on its ground ﬂoor while the upper ﬂoors house a high-quality collection of contemporary works by big-name international artists, some of which were specially commissioned for the museum. Highlights include a giant mural of the city by the NeapolitanAmerican artist Francesco Clemente, as well as work by Jeff Koons, Anish Kapoor, Damien Hirst, Gilbert and George, and others.

The centro storico The two main streets of Naples’ centro storico are Via dei Tribunali and Via San Biagio dei Librai (the latter also known as “Spaccanapoli”): narrow thoroughfares, lined with old arcaded buildings, which lead due west on the path of the decumanus maximus and decumanus inferiore of Roman times, and both charged with atmosphere throughout the day, a maelstrom of hurrying pedestrians, revving cars and buzzing, dodging scooters.

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Via dei Tribunali

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On the Forcella side of Via dei Tribunali, just around the corner from the Duomo, the Quadreria e Cappella del Pio Monte della Misericordia (daily except Wed 9am–2.30pm; €5), is worth stopping off at before diving into the old city proper – the church of the (still-functioning but originally seventeenth-century) charity of the same name, a beautiful octagonal structure, with paintings by Caravaggio and Luca Giordano. You can also visit the organization’s picture gallery upstairs, which overlooks the church. Across Via Duomo, Via dei Tribunali continues on past Piazza Girolamini, on which a plaque marks the house where, in 1668, Giambattista Vico was born. Vico was a late-Renaissance Neapolitan philosopher who advanced theories of cyclical history that were far ahead of their time and still echo through twentiethcentury thinking: James Joyce’s Finnegan’s Wake was based on his writings. Vico lived all his life in this district and was buried in the church of Girolamini. The church is not open to the public, but it does have a small picture gallery which you can visit, Quadreria dei Girolamini, accessed off a rather overgrown cloister from Via Duomo 142, opposite the cathedral (Mon–Fri 9.30am–12.30pm; free). Here, half a dozen dark and dusty rooms contain paintings by the Neapolitan painters Ribera, Batistello Carcacciolo and Solimena, among others. Further down Via dei Tribunali, the streets open out a little at a spot which would have been the ancient agora or forum of the ancient Greek and Roman cities at Piazza San Gaetano. On the right the basilica of San Paolo Maggiore stands on the site of a Roman temple that was rebuilt as a Christian basilica, and next door is the entrance to Napoli Sotterranea (Mon–Fri noon, 2pm, 4pm, Thurs noon, 2pm, 4pm, 9pm, Sat & Sun 10am, noon, 2pm, 4pm, 6pm; 1hr 30min; €9.30), whose tours, many of which are in English, take you to look at the remnants of a nearby Roman theatre and through the aqueducts and cisterns forty metres down below the old city – used from ancient times until the late nineteenth-century cholera outbreak, and then again as bomb shelters during World War II. Almost opposite San Paolo, the church of San Lorenzo Maggiore is a light, spacious Gothic church, unspoiled by later additions and with a soaring Gothic ambulatory at its apse – unusual in Italy, even more so in Naples. It’s a mainly thirteenth- and fourteenth-century building, though with a much later facade, built during the reign of the Angevin king Robert the Wise on the site of a Roman basilica – remains of which are in the cloisters. You can look at bits and pieces from the church in the attached museum or descend to the excavations beneath the church (both Mon–Sat 9.30am–5.30pm, Sun 9.30am–1.30pm; €9) to explore the remains of the Roman forum and, before that, the Greek agora – a rare chance to see exactly how the layers of the city were built up over the centuries, and to get some idea of how Naples must have looked back in the ﬁfth century BC. Via San Gregorio Armeno leads down to the other main axis of the old centre from here, and is one of the old city’s most picturesque streets, lined with places specializing in the making of presepi or Christmas cribs – a Neapolitan tradition kept up to this day, although the workshops along here turn them out more or less all year round. The often-inventive creations now incorporate modern ﬁgures into the huge crib scenes, which can contain moving water features, illuminated pizza ovens and tons of moss and bark. On the right, the church of San Gregorio Armeno (Mon & Wed–Fri 9am–noon, Tues 9am–12.45pm, Sat & Sun 9am–12.30pm) is a sumptuous Baroque ediﬁce with frescoes above the entrance by the late seventeenth-century Neapolitan artist Luca Giordano, not to mention two stupendously ornate gilded organs, one on each side of the nave. Up above the south aisle, you’ll notice a series of grilles through which the Benedictine

nuns would view the services from the Chiostro di San Gregorio Armeno next door – and which you can sit at yourself by walking up the street to the convent entrance on the left (Mon–Sat 9.30–noon, Sun 9.30am–1pm; free – you may have to ring the bell). It’s a wonderfully peaceful haven from the noise outside, planted with limes and busy with nuns quietly going about their duties. Spaccanapoli CAMPANI A

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Heading west down Via San Biagio leads to the Largo di Corpo di Nilo, where you’ll ﬁnd a Roman statue of a reclining old man, sculpted in Nero’s time; it’s a representation of the Nile and has a habit, it’s claimed, of whispering to women as they walk by. The church opposite, on Piazzetta Nilo, Sant’Angelo a Nilo, is home to the city’s earliest piece of Renaissance art – the funerary monument to Cardinal Rinaldo Brancaccio, made in Pisa in 1426 by Michelozzo and Donatello. Further on, Piazza San Domenico Maggiore is marked by the Guglia di San Domenico, built in 1737 – one of the whimsical Baroque obelisks that were originally put up after times of plague or disease or to celebrate the Virgin. The church (daily 8.30am–noon & 4.30–7pm) of the same name ﬂanks the north side of the square, an originally Gothic building from 1289, one of whose chapels holds a miraculous painting of the Cruciﬁxion which is said to have spoken to St Thomas Aquinas during his time at the adjacent monastery. Look also at the Brancaccio chapel, whose clear, bright frescoes by Pietro Cavallini date back to the early fourteenth century, and the sacristry, home to the velvet-clad coffins of the city’s Aragonese rulers, who made this church the centre of their court in Naples. Off the top end of the square, Via de Sanctis leads off right to one of the city’s odder monuments, the Cappella Sansevero (Mon & Wed–Sat 10am–6pm, Sun 10am–1.30pm; €7), the tomb-chapel of the di Sangro family, decorated by the sculptor Giuseppe Sammartino in the mid-eighteenth century. The decoration is extraordinary, the centrepiece a carving of a dead Christ, laid out ﬂat and covered with a veil of stark and remarkable realism, not least because it was carved out of a single piece of marble. Even more accomplished is the veiled ﬁgure of Modesty on the left, and, on the right, its twin Disillusionment, in the form of a woeful ﬁgure struggling with marble netting. Look, too, at the effusive Deposition on the high altar and the memorial above the doorway, which shows one Cecco di Sangro climbing out of his tomb, sword in hand. You might also want to venture downstairs. The man responsible for the chapel, Prince Raimondo, was a wellknown eighteenth-century alchemist, and down here are the results of some of his experiments: bodies of an upright man and woman, behind glass, their capillaries and most of their organs preserved by a mysterious liquid developed by the prince – who, incidentally, was excommunicated by the pope for such practices. Even now the black entanglements make for a gruesome sight. Continuing west, Via San Biagio becomes Via San Benedetto Croce, home to the church of Santa Chiara (daily 8am–1pm & 4–7pm). Dating from 1328, it was completely destroyed by Allied bombs during the last war, then rebuilt in its original bare Gothic austerity. There’s not very much to see inside, but the medieval tombs of the Angevin monarchs at the far end are very ﬁne and include that of Robert the Wise at the altar, showing the king in a monk’s habit. And the attached convent has a cloister (entrance to the left of the church; Mon–Sat 9.30am–5.30pm, Sun 9.30am–2pm; €5) that is truly one of the gems of the city, a shady haven planted with neatly clipped box hedges, and furnished with benches and low walls covered with colourful majolica tiles depicting bucolic scenes of life outside. There’s also a giant presepe or Christmas crib, and in the far corner a wellput-together museum showing bits from the church before the bombing as well as the excavated remains of a Roman bath complex outside.

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Opposite Santa Chiara, the Gesù Nuovo (daily 7am–1pm & 4–7.30pm) church is most notable for its lava-stone facade, originally part of a ﬁfteenth-century palace which stood here, prickled with pyramids that give it an impregnable, prison-like air. The inside is as over-sized and over-decorated as you might expect, and is worth a look for just that, although its most interesting feature is perhaps a quieter one: the simple chapel on the far right which is dedicated to San Guiseppe Moscati, a local doctor who died in 1927 and was reputed to perform medical miracles – as you can see from the votive plaques and thanks that plaster the walls.

Piazza del Municipio and the Museo Civico

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From Piazza Bovio it’s a short walk down to Piazza del Municipio, a busy traffic junction that stretches from the ferry terminal on the water up to the Palazzo Municipale at the top, dominated by the brooding hulk of the Castel Nuovo opposite – the “Maschio Angioino” – erected in 1282 by the Angevins and later converted as the royal residence of the Aragon monarchs. The entrance incorporates a triumphal arch from 1454 that commemorates the taking of the city by Alfonso I, the ﬁrst Aragon ruler, and shows details of his triumph topped by a rousing statue of St Michael. The Museo Civico inside (Mon– Sat 9am–7pm; €5) incorporates the ground-ﬂoor Capella Palatina, with its fourteenth- to sixteenth-century frescoes, Renaissance sculptures and ﬁfteenthcentury marble portal and rose window, and a couple of ﬂoors of paintings and sculpture – take a look at the original bronze doors from 1468 which show scenes from Ferdinand of Aragon’s struggle against the local barons. The cannonball wedged in the lower left-hand panel dates from a naval battle in 1495 between the French and the Genoese that took place while the former were pillaging the doors from the castle. On the upper ﬂoor are some nice nineteenthcentury scenes of Naples, but it’s probably the views over the port from the upper terrace that steal the show – that and the Sala dei Baroni, accessed from the courtyard, a huge room with magniﬁcent umbrella-ribbed vaults that were once covered in frescoes by Giotto (sadly lost).

Teatro San Carlo and around

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Just beyond the castle, the Teatro San Carlo is an oddly unimpressive building from the outside. But inside you can see why this theatre was the envy of Europe when it opened in 1737 in time for Charles of Bourbon’s birthday, for whom it was built. Destroyed by ﬁre in 1816 and quickly rebuilt, it’s one of the largest opera houses in Italy and one of the most distinguished in the world. Tours take in the auditorium itself, backstage areas and the dressing rooms of the principal singers (daily 9am–7pm; €5). Opposite, the Galleria Umberto I has fared less well over the years, its high arcades, erected in 1887, only now beginning to recover some of the teeming life that characterizes the rest of Naples. Outside, Piazza Trieste e Trento is probably as close to central Naples as you can get, though it’s more a roundabout than a piazza, whose life you can watch while sipping a pricey drink on the terrace of the sleekly historic Caffè Gambrinus. To the left, Piazza del Plebiscito is a decent attempt to create a grand and symmetrical city-centre space, with matching palaces on either side and a curve of columns modelled on Bernini’s piazza for St Peter’s in Rome. It’s a favourite place to stroll of an evening, when its focal point, the church of San Francesco di Paola, is ﬂoodlit and at its most impressive. At other times its attempts at classical majesty (it’s a copy of the Pantheon in Rome) only really work once you’re standing under its enormous dome.

The Palazzo Reale

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The Palazzo Reale (daily except Wed 9am–7pm; €4) forms the fourth side of the square, and manages better than most of the buildings around here to retain some semblance of its former glories, though it’s a bland, derivative building for the most part and even a bit of a fake, thrown up hurriedly in 1602 to accommodate Philip III on a visit here and never actually occupied by a monarch long term. Indeed it’s more of a monument to monarchies than monarchs, with the various dynasties that ruled Naples by proxy for so long represented in the niches of the facade, from Roger the Norman to Vittorio Emanuele II, taking in among others Alfonso I and a slightly comic Murat on the way. Upstairs, by way of an impressive white marble double-staircase, the palace’s ﬁrst-ﬂoor rooms are decorated with ﬁne Baroque excesses – gilded furniture, trompe l’oeil ceilings, great overbearing tapestries, impressive French Empire pieces and lots and lots of quite creditable seventeenth- and eighteenth-century paintings, including works by Guercino, Carracci and Titian, as well as Flemish old masters. The best bits are the little theatre – the ﬁrst room on the right – which is refreshingly restrained after the rest of the palace; the vast ballroom; and the terrace, which gives good views over the port and the Castel Nuovo. Look in also on the chapel, on the far side of the central courtyard, which has one of the city’s biggest presepi, ﬁlled with mainly eighteenth-century ﬁgures – 210 in all.

Santa Lucia and the Castel dell’Ovo Just south of Piazza del Plebiscito, the road curves around towards the sea. Via Santa Lucia is the main artery of the Santa Lucia district, home to most of the city’s poshest hotels, on the streets around and along the seafront Via Partenope, and one or two decent restaurants that make it a better than average place to come and eat. Down on the waterfront, the grey mass of the Castel dell’Ovo or “egg-castle” (Mon–Sat 8.30am–7pm, Sun 8.30am–2pm; free) takes its name from the whimsical legend that it was built over an egg placed here by Virgil in Roman times: it is believed that if the egg breaks, Naples will fall. Actually it was built by the Hohenstaufen king Frederick II and extended by the Angevins. There’s not much to see or do inside; it’s just a series of terraces and views really. But the views are the best in town: a 360-degree panorama over the entire bay and back over Naples itself. When you’re done you can go for drinks or dinner at one of the quayside restaurants in the Borgo Marinaro below.

Via Toledo and the Quartieri Spagnoli Piazza Trieste e Trento marks the beginning of the city’s main shopping street, Via Toledo, which leads north in a dead-straight line, climbing the hill up to the national archeological museum and separating two very different parts of Naples. To its right, across as far as Piazza del Gesù Nuovo, the streets and buildings are modern and spacious, centring on the unmistakeable mass of the Fascist-era central Post Office. The streets to the left, on the other hand, scaling the footslopes of the Vómero, are some of the city’s most narrow and crowded, a grid of alleys that was laid out to house Spanish troops during the seventeenth century and hence now known as the Quartieri Spagnoli. It’s an enticing area, at least for visitors, in that it’s what you expect to ﬁnd when you come to Naples, with the buildings so close together as to barely admit any sunlight. But it’s a poor part of town, too, home to the notorious Neapolitan bassi – one-room windowless dwellings that open directly onto the street – and one you might want to avoid wandering too deeply into at night.

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Further up Via Toledo, off to the left, there’s the equally atmospheric district of Montesanto on the left, focusing on the lively intersection of Piazza Pignasecca and the Montesanto funicular station just beyond; and on the right, Piazza Dante, designed by Luigi Vanvitelli during the eighteenth century and cutting an elegant semicircle off to the right of Via Toledo that focuses on a graffitied statue of the poet. From here you can cross the square and cut through the seventeenthcentury Port’Alba into the very appealing Piazza Bellini and the old part of the city, or push straight on up the street to the archeological museum, housed in a grandiose, late sixteenth-century army barracks on the corner of Piazza Cavour.

The Museo Archeologico Nazionale Naples’ Museo Archeologico Nazionale (daily except Tues 9am–7.30pm; €8) is home to the Farnese collection of antiquities from Lazio and Campania and the best of the ﬁnds from the nearby Roman sites of Pompeii and Herculaneum. It seems to be under almost constant reorganization, and to be honest the displays are tired and old-fashioned for the most part. But you’d be mad to miss it – it’s truly one of the highlights of the city. The ground ﬂoor of the museum has sculpture from the Farnese collection, displayed at its best in the mighty Great Hall, which holds imperial-era ﬁgures like the Farnese Bull and Farnese Hercules from the Baths of Caracalla in Rome – the former the largest piece of classical sculpture ever found. Don’t miss Ephesian Artemis, an alabaster and bronze statue with rows of bulbous objects peeling off her chest – variously interpreted as breasts, eggs, bulls’ scrota, dates or pollen sacs, and bees, mini-beasts and sphinxes adorning her lower half. The mezzanine ﬂoor holds the museum’s collection of mosaics – remarkably preserved works that give a superb insight into ordinary Roman customs, beliefs and humour. All are worth looking at – images of ﬁsh, crustacea, wildlife on the banks of the Nile, a cheeky cat and quail with still-life beneath, masks and simple abstract decoration. But some highlights include a realistic Battle Scene (no. 10020); the Three Musicians with Dwarf (no. 9985); an urbane meeting of the Platonic Academy (no. 124545); and a marvellously captured scene from a comedy, The Consultation of the Fattucchiera (no. 9987), with a soothsayer giving a dour and doomy prediction. While at the far end the fascinating Gabinetto Segreto (Secret Room) contains erotic material taken from the brothels, baths, houses and taverns of Pompeii and Herculaneum – languidly sensual wall-paintings, preposterously phallic lamps, and the like. Upstairs through the Salone della Meridiana, which contains a sparse but ﬁne assortment of Roman ﬁgures, a series of rooms holds the Campanian wall paintings, lifted from the villas of Pompeii and Herculaneum, and rich in colour and invention. There are plenty here, and it’s worth devoting some time to this section, which includes works from the Sacrarium – part of Pompeii’s Egyptian temple of Isis, the most celebrated mystery cult of antiquity. In the next series of rooms, some of the smallest and most easily missed works are among the most exquisite. Among those to look out for are a paternal Achilles and Chirone (no. 9109); the Sacriﬁce of Iphiginia (no. 9112) in the next room, one of the best preserved of all the murals; and a group of four small pictures, the best of which is a depiction of a woman gathering ﬂowers entitled Allegoria della Primavera – a ﬂuid, impressionistic piece of work capturing both the gentleness of spring and the graceful beauty of the woman. Beyond the murals are the actual ﬁnds from the Campanian cities – everyday items like glass, silver, ceramics, charred pieces of rope, even foodstuffs (petriﬁed cakes, ﬁgs, fruit and nuts), together with a model layout of Pompeii in cork. On the other side of the ﬁrst ﬂoor, there are ﬁnds from

the Villa dei Papiri in Herculaneum – sculptures in bronze mainly. The Hermes at Rest in the centre of the second room is perhaps the most arresting item, boyishly rapt and naked except for wings on his feet, while all around are other adept statues – a languid Resting Satyr, the convincingly woozy Drunken Silenus, and a pair of youthful Runners.

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To the left of the archeological museum as you come out, Piazza Cavour is a busy traffic junction and from there you can stroll up through the old quarter of La Sanità, following the tangle of streets for ten minutes or so up to the church of Santa Maria della Sanità on the piazza of the same name, a Dominican church from the early seventeenth century whose design was based loosely on Bramante’s for St Peter’s in Rome. There are paintings by Giordano and other Neapolitan artists inside, although perhaps of more interest are the Catacombe di San Gaudioso underneath (daily guided tours hourly 10am–1pm; 1hr; €8), an intriguing early Christian burial ground that’s home to the ﬁfth-century tomb of St Gaudioso, a bishop known as the “African”, as he was from North Africa, and the ﬁnal resting places of the Dominicans themselves, who were decapitated and buried sitting down. Lifts link Sanità with Corso Amedeo up above, the main road up to Capodimonte, and you can walk up from here in ten minutes or so to another burial place, the Catacombe di San Gennaro (guided tours hourly: Mon–Sat 10am–5pm, Sun 10am–1pm; 1hr; €8), next door to the huge Madre del Buon Consiglio church, halfway up the hill to Capodimonte. This is a very different sort of catacomb, bigger and more open than San Gaudioso, and best known for being the ﬁnal resting-place of San Gennaro, whose body was brought here in the ﬁfth century. There are some amazing early Christian frescoes and mosaics, newly restored and amazingly bright.

The Palazzo Reale di Capodimonte At the top of the hill, the Palazzo Reale di Capodimonte – and its adjoining park (daily 9am to 1hr before dusk; free) – was the royal residence of the Bourbon King Charles III, built in 1738 and now housing the picture gallery of the Naples museum, the superb Museo Nazionale di Capodimonte (daily except Wed 8.30am–7.30pm; €7.50), one of the best collections of art in the country. Its vast holding contains many important works by Campanian and international artists, as well as curious objets d’art and ﬁne pieces of Capodimonte porcelain. The three-storey museum is organized, not chronologically, but by collections: between them the Borgia, Farnese and Bourbon rulers amassed some superb Renaissance and Flemish works. On the ﬁrst ﬂoor there are ﬁne portraits of the Farnese pope, Paul III, by Titian, and, in the Borgia collection, an elegant Madonna and Child with Angels by Botticelli, Lippi’s soft, sensitive Annunciation, and other works by Renaissance masters – Bellini’s impressively coloured and composed Transﬁguration, Giulio Romano’s dark and powerful Madonna of the Cat and Marcello Venusti’s small-scale 1549 copy of Michelangelo’s Last Judgement – probably the only chance you’ll get to see the painting this close up. It’s not just Italian work either: there’s El Greco’s ﬂashy but atmospheric Soﬂon, a couple of Brueghels – The Misanthrope and The Parable of the Blind – and two triptychs by Joos van Cleve. Look out also for Titian’s lascivious Danae and a Masaccio painting of the Cruciﬁxion. On the second ﬂoor there are some outstanding Italian paintings from the fourteenth and ﬁfteenth centuries, of which the most famous is the St Louis of Anjou by Simone Martini, a fascinating Gothic painting glowing with gold leaf. An overt work of propaganda, it depicts an enthroned Louis crowning Robert of

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Anjou and thereby legitimizing his rule. Elsewhere there are paintings that used to hang in Naples’ churches: Colantonio’s St Jerome in his Study was painted for the altar of San Lorenzo Maggiore and there’s a delicate Annunciation by Titian from San Domenico Maggiore – and the long series of rooms ﬁnishes off in ﬁne style with one of Caravaggio’s best-known works, The Flagellation. Beyond are a number of paintings by the artists of the Neapolitan Baroque – Ribera, Giordano, Stanzione – while upstairs from there is a scattering of paintings and artworks from the twentieth century, of which the most notable is a painting of Vesuvius in eruption by Andy Warhol. If you have time to spare, take a walk around the royal apartments on the ﬁrst ﬂoor, smaller and more downbeat than those at Caserta but in many ways more enjoyable. High spots are the airy, mirrored ballroom, lined with portraits of various Bourbon monarchs and other European despots, an eccentric room entirely decorated with porcelain and sprouting Chinese scenes, monkeys and fruit and ﬂowers in 3D, and a number of rooms of beautifully decorated plates, some painted with local scenes.

Chiaia, Mergellina and Posillipo Lined with the city’s fanciest shops, Via Chiaia leads west from Piazza Trieste e Trento to the elegant circle of Piazza dei Martiri – named after the nineteenthcentury revolutionary martyrs commemorated by the column in its centre. This part of town, the Chiaia neighbourhood, displays a sense of order and classical elegance that is quite absent from the rest of the city centre, its buildings well preserved, the people noticeably better heeled. From Piazza dei Martiri, you can stroll down to the waterfront and Villa Comunale, Naples’ most central city park, richly adorned with Classical sculpture and the best place to appreciate the city’s maritime side with views stretching right around the bay to the distinctive silhouette of Vesuvius in the east. The road that skirts the park, Via Caracciolo, makes a nice way to walk around the bay to Mergellina, particularly in the early evening when the lights of the city enhance the views. On the way you might want to take in the Mediterranean marine life at the newly restored century-old aquarium (March–Oct Tues–Sat 9am–6pm, Sun 9.30am–7.30pm; Nov–Feb Tues–Sat 9am–5pm, Sun 9am–2pm; €1.50), one large room basically, lined with tanks ﬁlled with impressive giant turtles, eels and rays as well as a couple of mock rock-pools. Across the other side of Riviera di Chiaia from the aquarium, the gardens of the Villa Pignatelli (Wed– Mon 8.30am–2pm; €2) are a peaceful alternative to the Villa Comunale, and the early nineteenth-century house itself, now a museum, is kept in much the same way as when it was the home of a prominent Naples family and a meeting place for the city’s elite in the 1900s. It’s tastefully furnished and by Naples standards low-key, its handful of rooms holding books, porcelain, the odd painting and a set of photos signed by various aristocrats and royal personages. Villa Comunale stretches around the bay for a good mile, at the far end of which lie the harbour and main square – Piazza Sannazzaro – of the Mergellina district, a good place to come and eat at night and a terminus for hydrofoils to the bay’s islands. There’s not a lot else here, though it’s worth looking in on the little church of Santa Maria in Piedigrotta next door to the train station, home of the Madonna that gets carried through the streets every September in one of the city’s most popular festivals, and the Parco Virgiliano just behind (daily 9am–6.30pm), where you can see the opening to a 700m-long Roman tunnel that was tunnelled through the hillside here, and the supposed burial place of the Roman poet Virgil right by it, though this has long since been discredited.

Football in Naples Football is something of a religion in Naples, and support for the local side, Napoli, reached its pinnacle in the 1987 season when they won the scudetto with Diego Maradona as their star player. Their following is not quite as fanatical as it was back then, especially since the team dropped down from Serie A to C1 status after going bankrupt. But they have recently been rescued by the movie mogul Aurelio De Laurentiis and have made it back – and are thriving – in the top ﬂight. Napoli play at the Stadio di San Paolo in Fuorigrotta. To get to the ground, take the Ferrovia Cumana from Montesanto to Mostra and the stadium is right in front of you. Tickets, available from the ofﬁces facing you as you approach, or from the club’s outlets in town, cost from around €20 for seats in the end stands or “Curve”, up to €60 in the side or “Tribuna” stands.

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Of the other neighbourhoods nearby, the Fuorigrotta district, the other side of the Mergellina hill, is not really of interest unless you’re going to a football match, since it’s home to Napoli’s San Paolo stadium (see box above). The same goes for Posillipo, further along the shore, which is an upmarket suburb of the city stacked with fat villas and pockets – though, again, you may well want to come out here to eat: see p.755 for recommendations.

| Naples: The City

Vómero Vómero – the district topping the hill immediately above the old city – is one of Naples’ relatively modern additions, a light, airy and relatively peaceful quarter connected most directly with the teeming morass below by funicular railway. It’s a large area but mostly residential, and you’re unlikely to want to stray beyond the streets that fan out from each of the three funicular stations, centring on the grand symmetry of Piazza Vanvitelli. Come up on the Montesanto funicular and you’re well placed for a visit to two of the buildings that dominate Naples, way above the old city. Five minutes’ walk away, the Castel Sant’Elmo (daily except Tues 8.30am–7.30pm; €5) occupies Naples’ highest point and is an impressive fortiﬁcation, a fourteenth-century structure once used for incarcerating political prisoners and now lording it grandly over the streets below. Not surprisingly it has the very best views of Naples, and you can enjoy them from the top terrace of the castle before visiting the Napoli Novecento museum in the centre – a collection of painting and sculpture by Neapolitan artists from the early twentieth century to the 1980s. Beyond the castle, the fourteenth-century Certosa San Martino has the next-best views over the bay and is home to the Museo Nazionale di San Martino (daily except Wed 8.30am–7.30pm; €6). Indeed the views from its cunningly constructed terraced gardens are well worth the entrance fee alone but you also get to see the monastery’s church, with a colourful pavement and an Adoration of the Shepherds by Reni above the altar, as well as works by some of the greats of Neaopolitan painters in most of the chapels, as well as in the rooms off the high altar. In the museum proper, there are more paintings by Neapolitan masters – Ribera, Stanzione, Vaccaro – as well as sculpture by Pietro Bernini; the frescoed library and prior’s apartments; and an unparalleled collection of presepi or Christmas cribs. The Baroque cloisters are lovely, too, though a little gone to seed, but they’re surrounded by historical and maritime sections displaying models of ships, and documents, coins and costumes recording the era of the Kingdom of Naples. All in all one of the city’s better and more diverse museums, but with very little information in English.

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There’s another museum up here, ﬁfteen minutes’ walk away in the Neoclassical Villa Floridiana, close to the Chiaia funicular, whose lush grounds (daily 9am to 1hr before sunset) make a good place for a picnic – though the Museo Duca di Martina (daily except Tues 8.30am–2pm; €2.50) is of fairly specialist interest, a porcelain collection varying from the beautifully simple to the outrageously kitsch – hideous teapots, ceramic asparagus sticks and the like. There are examples of Capodimonte and Meissen, and eighteenth-century English, French, German and Viennese work – as well as a handful of pieces of Qing-Dynasty Chinese porcelain and Murano glass and exquisite non-ceramic items like inlaid ivory boxes and panels.

| Naples: Eating, drinking and nightlife

Eating, drinking and nightlife Neapolitan cuisine consists of simple dishes cooked with fresh, healthy ingredients (see box, p.735, for more on regional specialities). As Naples is not primarily a tourist-geared city, most restaurants are family-run places used by locals and as such generally serve good food at very reasonable prices. There’s no better place in Italy to eat pizza, at a solid core of almost obsessively unchanging places that still serve only the (very few) traditional varieties, and you’re never far from a food stall for delectable snacks on the move at one of the city’s many friggitorie.

Cafés, snacks and ice cream Attanasio Vico Ferrovia 2/4, off Via Milano. See map, pp.736–737. Bakery that specializes in delectable sfogliatelle (ricotta-stuffed pastries). Chalet Ciro Via Caracciolo 1–2. See map, pp.736–737. This Mergellina institution is known for its babá and other pastries as well as delicious ice cream. Its marathon opening hours (6.30am–2am) make it a dependable early morning or after-dinner pit stop for sweets. Gambrinus Via Chiaia 1–2. See map, p.741. The oldest and best-known of Neapolitan cafés, founded in 1861. Not cheap, but its aura of chandeliered gentility – and outside seating on Piazza Trieste e Trento – makes it worth at least one visit.

Gay Odin Via Benedetto Croce 61. See map, p.741. One of several locations around town, the Spaccanapoli branch of this long-established chocolatier also sells decadent ice cream. Remy Gelo Via F. Galiani 29/A. See map, pp.736–737. Off Via Caracciolo, near the hydrofoil terminal in Mergellina, this place does superb ice creams and granite. Scaturchio Piazza San Domenico. See map, p.741. Another elegant old Naples standard, it’s been serving coffee and pastries in the heart of Spaccanapoli for decades.

Restaurants and pizzerias Centro storico and Piazza Garibaldi

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All the places listed below are marked on the Central Naples map on p.741, unless otherwise stated. Antica Osteria Pisano Piazza Crocelle ai Mannesi 1–4 T 081.554.8325. Small and very traditional trattoria with a well-priced menu of much-loved local standards – a few pasta dishes, mainly with ﬁsh and seafood, and a short menu of meat mains for €5–8. Closed Sun & Aug. Bellini Via Santa Maria di Costantinopoli 80 T 081.459.774. Rife with old-world charm, this historic establishment has a convivial outside

terrace screened by foliage, and several spacious inside dining rooms. Locals come for the house speciality, linguine al cartoccio (pasta with seafood baked in paper), but pizzas and other local dishes are always good. Closed Sun eve. Da Michele Via Cesare Sersale 1–3 T081.553.9204. Tucked away off Corso Umberto I in the Forcella district, this is the most determinedly traditional of all the Naples pizzerias, offering just two varieties (allegedly the only two worth eating) – marinara and margherita – for about €3. Don’t arrive late, as they sometimes run out of dough. Closed Sun.

All the places listed below are marked on the Naples map on pp.736–737.

| Naples: Eating, drinking and nightlife

Santa Lucia, Chiaia, Mergellina and Vómero

Al Faretto Via Marechiaro 127, Posillipo T081.575.0407. Very atmospheric, romantic and smart restaurant, yet dinner averages only €30–40 each. Exceptionally fresh ﬁsh prepared and served with great style. Closed Mon. Da Dora Via Palasciano 30 T081.680.519. Not cheap, but perhaps the best place in the city to eat seafood and ﬁsh. One room, more or less, tiled and decorated in nautical fashion, and presided over by the implacable Dora in her pink pinny, who serves up wonderful seafood linguine and mixed fried ﬁsh. Closed Sun & Aug. Da Ettore Via Santa Lucia 56 T081.764.0498. In the heart of Santa Lucia, this casual and lively neighbourhood restaurant is famous for its pagnotielli (calzoni stuffed with mozzarella, ham and mushrooms), and there is a wide selection of pizza and traditional pasta dishes too. Closed Sun. Da Pasqualino Piazza Sannazzaro 79 T081.681.524. In the business of serving local ﬁsh dishes since 1898, this old-school Mergellina ristorante-pizzeria does great and affordable seafood and pizzas, and has outside seating in the summer. Closed Tues. Donna Teresa Via Kerbaker 58 T 081.556.7070. One of the few vestiges of simple dining left in Vómero, where the food and setting are authentic and the prices honest. Expect to pay €12–15 for a full meal. Closed Sun. Gorizia Via Bernini 29 T081.578.2248. This unpretentious Vómero restaurant is close to the Centrale and Chiaia funicular and does some of Vómero’s best pizza, as well as a decent full menu. Closed Mon. Marino Via S. Lucia 118 T081.764.0280. A warm and welcoming family-style place in Santa Lucia with good pizzas and reliable Neapolitan dishes. Not at all expensive – pasta dishes from around €7, pizzas from €5. Closed Mon. Umberto Via Alabardieri 30–31 T081.418.555. A longtime popular choice among the professional classes of the Chiaia district, serving marvellous food in somewhat old-fashioned surroundings. Choose between a simple pizzeria and more upmarket restaurant. Closed Mon.

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Di Matteo Via dei Tribunali 94 T 081.294.203. One of the best and most famous pizzerias in the city, a bit low on atmosphere, but the enormous and mouthwatering pizzas more than make up for it – after all, when Bill Clinton was in town, this is where he came to sample proper Neapolitan pizza. Closed Sun. La Cantina di Via Sapienza Via Sapienza 40–41 T 081.459.078. Proprietor Gaetano’s no-nonsense food and service draws a busy lunch crowd to feast on hearty home-cooked classics like polpette (meatballs) and a staggering array of seasonal vegetable side dishes. Two courses will cost you €10–12. Closed dinner & Sun. La Stanza del Gusto Via Santa Maria di Costantinopoli 100 T 081.401.578. This busy one-room restaurant is the brainchild of local culinary innovator Mario Avallone, and serves a lovely menu of locally sourced, southern regional specialities. Go for a snack – they do great Sicilian toasted sandwiches – or a full meal; try the tagliata di bufala or baccalà. Moderate prices too. Lombardi a Santa Chiara Via B. Croce 59 T081.552.0780. Located in Spaccanapoli near the church of Santa Chiara, this restaurant serves other dishes, but really you come for the pizzas, which are still among the best in this part of the city. Closed Mon. Mimi’ alla Ferrovia Via Via A. d’Aragona 21 T 081.570.6883. See map, pp.736–737. A real old-fashioned bustling restaurant and something of a haven in the none-too-desirable streets off Piazza Garibaldi, with good traditional Neapolitan food at reasonable prices – pasta dishes for €6, and mains for €10. Closed Sun & two weeks in Aug. Osteria da Carmela Via Conte di Ruovo 11/12 T081.549.9738. Right next door to the Teatro Bellini, this is just one room, serving variations on traditional Neapolitan cuisine – great ﬁsh, excellent antipasti and tasty pasta and meat too, in an intimate and friendly environment. Closed Sun.

Nightlife Neapolitan nightlife is largely concentrated in two neighbourhoods – the centro storico and the Chiaia district. The former has a decent selection of bars appealing to budget-conscious university students and a chic bohemian crowd, particularly around Piazza Bellini. The latter tends more towards a series of late-night cocktail joints focused on the streets just west of Piazza dei Martiri that stay open into the small hours and attract a cool, well-heeled crowd, as well as a few decent, more old-fashioned wine bars. Bear in mind, though, that things don’t really get going till at least 10pm, and that most places close in August.

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| Naples: Eating, drinking and nightlife

There are plenty of clubs, large and small, peppered throughout the city and its suburbs. Owing to the licensing laws, some require a tesserino or membership card to gain entry, which can cost upwards of €10 and can be purchased at the door. Others charge a ﬂat cover charge, generally €15–35 and including the price of one drink. Nightclubs in Naples close down for the summer from June to September, when they move out around the bay to Posillipo, Bacoli, Fusaro or Pozzuoli, all best reached with your own transport. Things get going around midnight or 1am. For listings of Naples nightlife, pick up Zero (W www.zero.eu) or Urban, free monthly publications available in bars, or for big events see W www.angelsoﬂove .it, Italy’s answer to the Ministry of Sound. For more highbrow culture there’s the legendary Teatro San Carlo (see p.748), an opulent venue given over to classical concerts, opera and ballet (T 081.797.2331). You’ll ﬁnd tickets hard to come by, however, as they are mostly sold on subscription, but if you do manage to get hold of one, dress up. Teatro Bellini puts on theatrical performances by important playwrights but in Italian only. Smaller and more casual venues offer a variety of entertainment ranging from traditional Neapolitan comedies (Teatro Trianon) to experimental theatre (Nuovo Teatro Nuovo). Bars and clubs Barcadero Banchina Santa Lucia 2 T 081.222.7023. See map, pp.736–737. The perfect place for an evening aperitivo, right on the harbour by the Castel dell’Ovo. There’s quite a scene here early evening – take the steps down from the causeway to the castle. Bourbon Street Via Bellini 52/53 T 338.825.3756, W www.bourbonstreetjazzclub.com. See map, p.741. A premier venue for Italian and international jazz acts, bringing a slice of American jazz culture to the heart of Naples’ centro storico. Tues–Sun 9pm–3am. Closed June–Aug. Enoteca Belledonne Vico Belledonne a Chiaia 18 T 081.403.162, W www.enotecabelledonne. com. See map, pp.736–737. Right in the heart of the Chiaia bar scene, this unpretentious enoteca serves an exhaustive collection of Italian wines and delicious selections of cheeses and salumi – and without the full-on noise of its nearby rivals. Daily 6pm–2am. Closed Aug. Intra Moenia Piazza Bellini 70. See map, p.741. One of several trendy haunts on Piazza Bellini, where tables spread across the square. A lovely

place to sit and read under the wisteria on a sunny day, or for an early evening aperitif. Substantial snacks and fancy ice creams are served, and there’s internet access. Daily 10am–2am. Kinky Klub Via della Quercia 26 T335.547.7299, W www.kinkyjam.com. See map, p.741. Contrary to what the name might suggest, this popular bar just off Via Toledo is Naples’ home for reggae, rocksteady, dancehall and ska. Tues–Sun 9pm–4am. Closed mid-June to mid-Sept. Vinarium Vicolo Santa Maria a Cappella Vecchia 7 T081.764.4114. See map, pp.736–737. Busy wine bar just off Piazza dei Martiri that has a good selection of wines and serves food from an everchanging menu. Mon–Sat 11am–4pm & 7pm–1am. Virgilio Club Via Tito Lucrezio Caro 6 T081.575.5261, Wwww.virgilioclub.it. See map, pp.736–737. Immersed in the greenery of the Parco Virgiliano on the slopes of Posillipo, this place gets jam-packed on summer nights when they open a leafy terrace overlooking the bay. Entry from €20. June to mid-Oct Wed–Sun 10pm–4am; opening variable in winter.

Listings

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Airlines Alitalia T 06.2222; British Airways T 199.712.266; easyJet T 848.887.766. Car rental Avis T 081.780.5790; Europcar T 081.780.4780; Hertz T081.780.2971; Maggiore T 081.780.3011. Consulates Canada, Via Carducci 29 T 081.401.338; UK, Via dei Mille 40 T 081.423.8911; US, Piazza della Repubblica 2 T 081.583.8111.

Exchange Outside normal banking hours you can change money and travellers’ cheques at the booth inside Stazione Centrale (daily 8am–7.30pm). Hospital To call an ambulance, dial T118; hospital numbers include T081.747.1111 or 081.220.5797, or go to the Guardia Medica Permanente in the Palazzo Municipio, open 24hr. Laundry Bolle Blu, Corso Novara 62–64, just up from the Stazione Centrale (Mon–Sat 8.30am–8pm).

Taxis T081.202.020, 570.7070, 551.5151 or 556.4444. Tours CitySightseeing Napoli operate a hop-onhop-off service taking in the sights on several routes around town between May and Sept; tickets cost €22 and are valid for 24hr. Tours leave from just in front of the Castel Nuovo. Travel agents CTS, Via L. Settembrini 86 (T081.033.1948), for discount tickets, budget ﬂights and so on.

Naples spreads right around its bay in an almost unbroken ribbon of docks, housing and development whose appeal is hard to discern, and only really becomes apparent the further away from the city you get. It’s one of the most geologically unstable regions in the world, a fact that becomes obvious west of the city, where volcanic craters, hot springs and fumaroles make up the area known as the Campi Flegrei, the Phlegrean Fields of classical times, a mysterious place in turn mythologized by Homer and Virgil as the entrance to Hades. These days most of the mystery is gone – like most of the bay, the presence of Naples dominates in the form of new, mostly illegal, construction – and much of the volcanic activity is extinct, or at least dormant. But parts of the area still retain some of the doomy associations that ﬁrst drew the ancients here, and there are some substantial remains of their presence at Pozzuoli, Baía and Cumae. In the opposite direction, the coast east from Naples is even more built up, the Circumvesuviana train edging out through derelict industrial buildings and dense housing that squeezes ever closer to the track. Most people come here for the ancient sights of Herculaneum and Pompeii, or to scale Vesuvius – or they skip the lot for the resort town of Sorrento. All are easy day-trips, and Sorrento, though overdeveloped, is worth a little more time and makes a good springboard for seeing some of the Amalﬁ Coast.

| The Bay of Naples • Pozzuoli

The Bay of Naples

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Pharmacies The pharmacy at Napoli Centrale is open 24hr and there’s a list of those open at night in the newspaper Il Mattino. Police T 112 or 113; you can speak to an operator in English. The main police station (questura) is at Via Medina 75 (T 081.794.1111); you can also report crimes at the small police station in Stazione Centrale. Post ofﬁce The main post ofﬁce is in the enormous building on Piazza Matteotti, just off Via Toledo (Mon–Sat 8.15am–7.20pm).

Pozzuoli Heading west, the ﬁrst town that can really be considered free of Naples’ sprawl is POZZUOLI, which sits on a stout promontory jutting out from the slender crescent of volcanic hills behind. Despite achieving some glamour as the home town of Sophia Loren, it’s an ordinary little place, nothing special but likeable enough, with ferry connections to the islands of Prócida and Ischia. And although you wouldn’t want to stay here (unless you’re a camper; see “Accommodation”, p.743), it’s a good ﬁrst stop before travelling on to the rest of the Campi Flegrei. Pozzuoli has suffered more than most of the towns around here from the area’s volcanic activity and subsidence is still a major – and carefully monitored – problem. In town there are a number of well-preserved relics of the Romans’ liking for the place. Beyond the Cumana station, between Via Roma and Via Sacchini,

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| Baía

just east of the port, the so-called Temple of Serapide sits enclosed within a small park, often ﬂooded in winter, but otherwise accessible. Its name derives from the unearthing here of a statue of the Pluto-esque Egyptian god, Serapis Enthroned (now in the Naples archeological museum), but in fact the structure has since proved to be not a temple but a richly embellished produce-market from the ﬁrst to the third centuries AD, one of the largest known that has been excavated. On the other side of the port, above the tourist office, the Rione Terra (Sat & Sun 9am–6pm; €3; booking required T 081.741.0067 or toll-free 848.800.288) is basically the ruins of the ancient acropolis of the Greek town and the later heart of the Roman port, and you stroll through some of its ancient streets – though its opening times can be erratic. More accessible is the Anﬁteatro Flavio on Via Domiziana just north of the centre (daily except Tues 9am–1hr before sunset; €4, combined ticket with Baía and Cumae), which was at one time the third largest in Italy, holding some 20,000 spectators, and is still reasonably intact, though visitors are not allowed on the seating area. The subterranean chambers for gladiators and wild beasts are especially complete, and lying around everywhere is an abundance of beautifully carved architectural fragments. Just north of town, ten minutes’ walk up the hill from the metropolitana/FS station (bus #152 and the SEPSA #M1 stop outside), the Solfatara (April–Sept daily 8.30am–1hr before sunset; €6) is further, and tangible, evidence of the volcanic nature of the area, the exposed crater of a semi-extinct volcano – into which you can walk – that hasn’t erupted for a couple of thousand years; in fact, it was a major tourist attraction in Roman times, too. Not surprisingly, it’s a weird place: sulphur fumes rise from the rocks around and the grey-yellow ground is hot to the touch (and sounds hollow underfoot), emitting eerily silent jets or fumaroles that leave the air pungent with sulphurous fumes. In the 1800s some of the fumaroles were covered with brick, creating an almost unbearably warm, sauna-like environment into which you can bend if you can stand it, while others are just left open.

Practicalities You can get here from Naples on the metropolitana Linea 2 from Piazza Garibaldi, or on the Ferrovia Cumana line from Montesanto station; both take about twenty minutes. Buses #152 and SEPSA #M1 also run direct from Piazza Garibaldi. There’s a tourist office at Piazza Matteotti 1/A (daily 9am–3.30pm; T 081.526.6639, W www.infocampiﬂegrei.it). The best time to come to Pozzuoli is Sunday, when the whole town turns out for the morning ﬁsh market, afterwards eating lunch in one of several waterfront restaurants: Il Capitano, near the dock at Lungomare C. Colombo 10 (T 081.526.2283), is pretty good; or there’s unpretentious Don Antonio (T 081.526.7941; closed Mon), up narrow Via Magazzini off the old port – walk around beyond the ferries and it’s on the left – which does great ﬁsh fry-ups and lots of other ﬁsh and seafood dishes.

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The next town along from Pozzuoli, reached in ﬁfteen minutes by train from the Cumana station, by the Temple of Serapide, is Baía, a small port which has a set of imperial-era Roman ruins piling up on the hill above. This was one of the bay’s most favoured spots in Roman times, a trendy resort at which all the most fashionable of the city’s patricians had villas: the Emperor Hadrian died here in 138 AD and Nero was rumoured to have murdered his mother in Baía.

Further up the coast, the town of Cumae was the ﬁrst Greek colony on the Italian mainland, a source of settlers for other colonies (Naples was originally settled by Greeks from Cumae) and a centre of Hellenistic civilization. Later it was home to the so-called Cumaean Sibyl, from whom Tarquinius purchased the Sibylline Books that laid down the laws for the Republic. The site (daily 9am–1hr before sunset; €4 combined ticket with Anﬁteatro Flavio and Báia), a short walk from the bus stop, is spread over a large area and not at all comprehensively excavated. But the only part you’re likely to want to see forms a tight nucleus close to the entrance. The best-known feature is the Grotto of the Sibyl, a long, dark corridor that was home to the most famous of the ancient oracles. The cave is rectangular in shape, with light admitted from a series of openings in the western wall; the Sibyl used to dispense her wisdom from the three large chambers at the far end of the forty-foot passageway, the most famous occasion being when Aeneas came here to consult her – an event recorded by the lines of Virgil posted up either side of the entrance. But the best of Cumae is still to come. Climb up the steps to the right of the cave entrance and follow the winding Via Sacra past a constructed belvedere on the left and the fairly scanty remains of a temple on the right to the Acropolis. Here you’ll ﬁnd the remains of a temple to Jupiter, but it’s the views that you really come for: from the far side of the temple way south across the shellﬁsh-ﬁlled Lago Fusaro and the bottom corner of the coast; and, if you clamber down from the other side of the temple, north up the curving coast to the Gulf of Gaeta.

| Cumae • Herculaneum

Cumae

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Steps lead up to the entrance of Baía’s extensive Parco Archeologico (Tues–Sun 9am–1hr before sunset; €4) – excavations of a very important Roman palace of the ﬁrst century BC to the fourth century AD, with an enormous network of baths which served the imperial fat cats of the era. It’s an evocative location, structured across several levels. Follow the steps down from the entrance level to the ﬁrst terrace of the palace: the rooms on the right contain patches of Roman stuccowork depicting birds and mythical creatures and a statue of Mercury, beheaded by vandals. In the centre are the remains of a small theatre and an open space – thought to be a piscina – with a pretty garden portico on one side. Many of the ﬁnds from Baía and around are in the Museo Archeologico (Tues–Sun 9am–1hr before sunset; €4, combined ticket with Anﬁteatro Flavio and Cumae), housed in part of the town’s mammoth ﬁfteenth-century Aragon castle, a ﬁfteen-minute walk up the main road towards Bacoli. Among the ﬁnds on display here is a sacellum – a shrine dedicated to the imperial cult – from the forum of ancient Misenum on Capo Miseno, rebuilt here on the ground ﬂoor, and a nymphaeum or monumental fountain, partially reconstructed on the top ﬂoor.

Herculaneum East of Naples the ﬁrst real point of any interest is the town of Ercolano, the modern offshoot of the ancient site of HERCULANEUM, which was destroyed by the eruption of Vesuvius on August 24, 79 AD and is situated at the seaward end of the town’s main street (daily: April–Oct 8.30am–7.30pm; Nov–March 8.30am–5pm; €11 or combined ticket with Pompeii, Villa Oplontis and other sites, valid 3 days, €20; W www.pompeiisites.org). The site was discovered in 1709, when

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a well-digger accidentally struck the stage of the buried theatre. Excavations were undertaken throughout the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries, during which period much of the marble and bronze from the site was carted off to Naples to decorate the city’s palaces, and it wasn’t until 1927 that digging and preservation began in earnest. Herculaneum was a residential town, much smaller than Pompeii, and as such it makes a more manageable site, less architecturally impressive but better preserved and more easily taken in on a single visit. Archeologists held for a long time that unlike in Pompeii, on the other side of the volcano, most of the inhabitants of Herculaneum managed to escape. However, recent discoveries of entangled skeletons found at what was the shoreline of the town suggest otherwise, and it’s now believed that most of the population was buried by huge avalanches of volcanic mud, which later hardened into the tufa-type rock that preserved much of the town so well. In early 2000 the remains of another 48 people were found; they were carrying coins, which suggests they were attempting to ﬂee the disaster.

The site Because Herculaneum wasn’t a commercial town, there was no central open space or forum, just streets of villas and shops, cut as usual by two very straight main thoroughfares that cross in the centre. Start your tour just inside the entrance at the bottom end of Cardo III, where you’ll see the House of the Argus (Casa d’Argo) on the left, a very grand building judging by its once-impressive courtyard – although upstaged by the so-called Hotel (Casa del Albergo) across the street, which covers a huge area, though you can only really get a true impression of its size from the rectangle of stumpy columns that made up its atrium. Further up, Cardo III joins the Decumanus Inferiore, just beyond which it’s the large Thermae or bath complex which dominates – the domed frigidarium of its men’s section decorated with a ﬂoor mosaic of dolphins, its caldarium containing a plunge bath and a scallop-shell apse. Still intact are the benches where people sat and the wooden, partitioned shelves for clothing. On the far side of the baths, the House of Neptune and Amphitrite (Casa di Nettuno ed Anﬁtrite) holds sparklingly preserved and richly ornamental wall mosaics. Adjacent is the House of the Beautiful Courtyard (Casa del Bel Cortile) where skeletons of bodies still lie in the positions they fell. Turning right at the top of Cardo IV takes you around to Cardo V and most of the rest of the town’s shops – a variety of places including a baker’s, complete with ovens and grinding mills, a weaver’s, with loom and bones, and a dyer’s, with a huge pot for dyes. Behind the ones on the left you can see the Palestra, where public games were held, opposite which there’s a well-preserved Taverna with counters and, further down Cardo V on the right, another tavern, the Taverna del Priapo, with a Priapic painting behind its counter. Further down Cardo V, the House of the Deer (Casa dei Cervi) was another luxury villa, its two storeys built around a central courtyard and containing corridors decorated with richly coloured still-lifes. A covered passageway leads down from here to another baths building on the left – in fact one of the most impressive – and intact – structures in Herculaneum, complete with extremely well preserved stuccowork and a pretty much intact set of baths; it also has a complete original Roman door, the only one in Herculaneum that wasn’t charred by ﬁre. If you ﬁnd it open, the damp mustiness makes it certainly the most evocative stop on a tour of the site. Cut back from Cardo V to Cardo IV and the House of the Wooden Partition (Casa del Tramezzo di Legno) with its original partition doors (now under glass). Nearby, the House of the Mosaic Atrium (Casa del Atrio Mosaico) was a grand villa in its day and retains its mosaic-laid courtyard, corrugated by the force of the tufa.

Mount Vesuvius

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| Pompeii

Since its ﬁrst eruption in 79 AD, when it buried the towns and inhabitants of Pompeii and Herculaneum, Mount Vesuvius (1281m) has dominated the lives of those who live on the Bay of Naples, its brooding bulk forming a stately backdrop to the ever-growing settlements that group around its lower slopes. It’s still an active volcano, the only one on mainland Europe. There have been more than a hundred eruptions over the years, but only two others of real signiﬁcance – one in December 1631 that engulfed many nearby towns and killed 3000 people; and the last, in March 1944, which caused widespread devastation in the towns around, though no one was actually killed. The people who live here still fear the reawakening of the volcano, and with good cause – scientists calculate it should erupt every thirty years or so, and it hasn’t since 1944. It’s carefully monitored, of course, and there is apparently no reason to expect any movement for some time. But the subsidence in towns like Ercolano below is a continuing reminder of the instability of the area, one of southern Italy’s most densely populated: around half a million people would be immediately threatened by another eruption. There are several ways of getting to Vesuvius, or at least the car park and huddle of souvenir shops and cafés which sits just above the greenery among the bare cinders of the main summit and crater. You can drive here, and pay for parking. Alternatively, there are six EAV buses every morning from Pompeii – Piazza Antifeatro – starting at 8am and leaving roughly every 50 minutes until 11.20am ( journey time is 55 minutes and tickets cost €10 return), plus two buses a day from Ercolano. You can also rent minibus taxis from Ercolano which charge €10–15 per person and wait while you see the crater – but you have to wait until they’re full at both ends. There are also two morning services from Naples, picking up from various places throughout the centre, including the Molo Beverello at 9.10am and 10.25am, and Piazza Garibaldi at 9.25am and 10.40am (Terminus Hotel); they take an hour and thirty minutes and return at 12.30pm and 2pm respectively.

The ascent Making the ascent to the crater (daily: Jan & Feb, Nov & Dec 9am–3pm; March & Oct 9am–4pm; April & May, June & Sept 9am–5pm; July & Aug 9am–6pm; €6.50) from the car park takes between twenty and thirty minutes depending how ﬁt you are. It’s a stony and mildly strenuous stroll across reddened, barren gravel and rock along a marked-out path that nowadays is roped off to minimize the chance of stumbling and falling down the sheer drop to the right. At the top is a deep, wide, jagged ashtray of red rock swirled over by midges and emitting the odd plume of smoke, though since the last eruption effectively sealed up the main crevice this is much less evident than it once was. There’s also a small kiosk selling drinks and trinkets, and the path continues halfway around the crater so you can get a view from the other side – a further ﬁfteen minutes or so on foot.

Pompeii The other Roman town to be destroyed by Vesuvius – POMPEII – was a much larger affair than Herculaneum and one of Campania’s most important commercial centres – a moneyed resort for wealthy patricians and a trading town that exported wine and ﬁsh. In effect the eruption froze the town’s way of life as it stood at the time; indeed the excavations have probably yielded more information about the ordinary life of Roman citizens during the imperial era than anywhere else: their

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| Pompeii

social conventions, class structure, domestic arrangements and (very high) standard of living. Some of the buildings are even covered with ancient graffiti, either referring to contemporary political events or simply to the romantic entanglements of the inhabitants; and the full horror of their way of death is apparent in plaster casts made from the shapes their bodies left in the volcanic ash – with faces tortured with agony, or shielding themselves from the dust and ashes. The ﬁrst parts of ancient Pompeii were discovered in 1600, but it wasn’t until 1748 that excavations began, continuing more or less without interruption until the present day. Indeed, exciting discoveries are still being made. A privately funded excavation some years ago revealed a covered heated swimming pool, whose erotic wall paintings have been deemed by the Vatican to be unsuitable for children. And, in a further development, a luxury “hotel” complex was uncovered in 2000 during the widening of a motorway, slabs of stacked cut marble suggesting it was still under construction when Vesuvius erupted. Recently, a ﬂood of new funds is being used to excavate a further twenty hectares of the site; it is hoped to resolve whether or not the survivors attempted, vainly, to resettle Pompeii after the eruption.

Arrival, information and accommodation To reach Pompeii from Naples, take the Circumvesuviana east to Pompeii-Villa dei Misteri – about 35 minutes; this leaves you right outside the western, Porta Marina entrance to the site. The site (daily: April–Oct 8.30am–7.30pm; Nov–March 8.30am–5pm; €11, combined ticket with Herculaneum, Villa Oplontis and other sites, valid 3 days, €20; W www.pompeisites.org) covers a wide area, and seeing it properly takes half a day at the very least; really you should devote most of a day to it and take plenty of breaks – unlike Herculaneum there’s little shade, and the distances involved are quite large: ﬂat, comfortable shoes are a must. All of this makes Pompeii sound a bit of a chore – which it certainly isn’t. But there is a lot to see, and you should be reasonably selective: many of the streets aren’t lined by much more than foundations, and after a while one ruin begins to look much like another. Again, many of the most interesting structures are kept locked and only opened when a large group forms or a tip is handed over to one of the many custodians. It’s worth studying the site map, which you’ll ﬁnd at every entrance – pins on the map indicate which areas are currently closed, as the site is in continuous restoration. To be sure of seeing as much as possible you could take a tour, although one of the pleasures of Pompeii is to escape the hordes and absorb the strangely still quality of the town, which, despite the large number of visitors, it is quite possible to do. If you want to make Pompeii an overnight stop, there are plenty of hotels and a couple of handy campsites. Try Hotel Diana, close by the tourist office at Vicolo

24 August, 79 AD: the day Pompeii died

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Vesuvius had been spouting smoke and ash for several days before the eruption on 24 August. Fortunately most of Pompeii had already been evacuated when disaster struck: out of a total population of 20,000 it’s thought that only 2000 actually perished, asphyxiated by the toxic fumes of the volcanic debris, their homes buried in several metres of volcanic ash and pumice. Pliny, the Roman naturalist, was one of the casualties – he died at nearby Stabiae (now Castellammare) of a heart attack. But his nephew, Pliny the Younger, described the full horror of the scene in two vivid letters to the historian Tacitus, who was compiling a history of the disaster, writing that the sky turned dark like “a room when it is shut up, and the lamp put out”.

Sant’Abbondio 10 (T 081.863.1264), or Camping Pompei at Via Plinio 113, south of the main entrance (T 081.862.2882, W www.campingpompei.com; €5.50 per tent, plus €4 per person; 1 for a two-person bungalow). Modern Pompeii’s tourist office at Via Sacra 1, just off the main square (Mon–Sat 9am–4pm; T 081.850.7255), has plans of the site, town plans, and details of other accommodation.

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Entering the site from the Pompeii-Villa dei Misteri side, through the Porta Marina, the Forum is the ﬁrst real feature of signiﬁcance, a long, slim, open space surrounded by the ruins of what would have been some of the town’s most important official buildings – a basilica, temples to Apollo and Jupiter, and a market hall. Walking north from here, up the so-called Via di Mercurio, takes you towards some of the town’s more luxurious houses. On the left, the House of the Tragic Poet (Casa del Poetica Tragico) is named for its mosaics of a theatrical production and a poet inside, though the “Cave Canem” (Beware of the Dog) mosaic by the main entrance is more eye-catching. Close by, the residents of the House of the Faun (Casa del Fauno) must have been a friendlier lot, its “Ave” (Welcome) mosaic outside beckoning you in to view the atrium and the copy of a tiny, bronze, dancing faun (the original is in Naples) that gives the villa its name. On the street behind, the House of the Vettii (Casa dei Vettii) is one of the most delightful houses in Pompeii and one of the best maintained, a merchant villa ranged around a lovely central peristyle that gives the best possible impression of the domestic environment of the city’s upper middle classes. The ﬁrst room on the right off the peristyle holds some of the best of Pompeii’s murals: the one on the left shows the young Hercules struggling with serpents. There are more paintings beyond here, through the villa’s kitchen in a small room that’s normally kept locked – erotic works showing various techniques of lovemaking together with an absurdly potent-looking statue of Priapus from which women were supposed to drink to be fertile. Cross over to the other side of the site for the so-called new excavations, which began in 1911 and actually uncovered some of the town’s most important quarters. The Grand Theatre, for one, is very well preserved and is still used for performances, overlooking the small, grassy, column-fringed square of the Samnite Palestra – a refectory and meeting-place for spectators from the theatre. Walk around to the far left side of the Grand Theatre, down the steps and up again, and you’re in front of the Little Theatre – a smaller, more intimate venue also still used for summer performances and with a better-kept corridor behind the stage space. Walk up from here to rejoin the Via dell’ Abbondanza, where there’s lots of interest – the Lararium has a niche with a delicate relief showing scenes from the Trojan war; the Fullonica Stephani is a well-preserved laundry, with a large tiered tub for washing; the House of the Venus in the Shell is named after the excellently preserved painting on its back wall; while next door, the House of Octavius Quartio is a gracious villa fronted by great bronze doors, with paintings of Narcissus gazing rapt at his reﬂection in the villa’s lovely garden, which has been replanted with vines and shrubs. Just beyond here is the town’s Amphitheatre – one of Italy’s most intact and accessible, and also its oldest, dating from 80 BC; it once had room for a crowd of some 12,000 – well over half the town’s population. Next door, the Palestra is a vast parade ground that was used by Pompeii’s youth for sport and exercise – still with its square of swimming pool in the centre. It must have been in use when the eruption struck Pompeii, since its southeast corner was found littered with the skeletons of young men trying to ﬂee the disaster.

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Mountain views without the effort

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If you want to look down across the whole Bay of Naples but don’t fancy sweating your way up Vesuvius, head a few kilometres further around the bay to Castellammare Di Stabia. Here you can take a funivia or cable car up to the top of Monte Faito (1100m; daily every 20–30min: mid-June to Aug 7.25am–7.15pm; rest of year 9.35am–4.25pm; €7.60 return, children €2.90; July, Aug & Sun €8.20), an eight-minute journey but even so deﬁnitely not for those of a delicate disposition, giving increasingly stupendous views of the bay and of the deepening gulf between you and the tree-ﬁlled hillside below. At the top, there are a couple of bars selling drinks and sandwiches, and if you really can’t face the trip down it’s comforting to know that several roads meet here and there’s a Circumvesuviana bus stop nearby.

| Sorrento

One last place you shouldn’t miss at Pompeii is the Villa dei Misteri. This is probably the best preserved of all Pompeii’s palatial houses, an originally thirdcentury-BC structure with a warren of rooms and courtyards that derives its name from a series of paintings in one of its larger chambers: depictions of the initiation rites of a young woman into the Dionysiac Mysteries, an outlawed cult of the early imperial era. Not much is known about the cult itself, but the paintings are marvellously clear, remarkable for the surety of their execution and the brightness of their tones and colours.

Sorrento Topping the rocky cliffs close to the end of its peninsula, 25km south of Pompeii, the last town of signiﬁcance on this side of the bay, SORRENTO is solely and unashamedly a resort, its inspired location and mild climate drawing foreigners from all over Europe for close on two hundred years. Ibsen wrote part of Peer Gynt in Sorrento, Wagner and Nietzsche had a well-publicized row here, and Maxim Gorky lived for over a decade in the town. Nowadays it’s strictly package-tour territory, but not too much the worse for it, with little of the brashness of its Spanish and Greek equivalents but all of their vigour, a bright, lively place that retains its southern Italian roots. Cheap restaurants aren’t too hard to ﬁnd, nor – if you know where to look – is reasonably priced accommodation; and it’s a handy place outside Naples itself from which to explore the rugged peninsula (even parts of the Amalﬁ Coast) and the islands of the bay.

Arrival and information

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Sorrento’s train station is located in the centre of town, ﬁve minutes from the main Piazza Tasso along busy Corso Italia; the bus station is just in front. There’s a tourist office in the large yellow Circolo dei Forestieri building at Via Luigi de Maio 35, just off Piazza San Antonino (Mon–Sat 8.45am–6.15pm; T 081.807.4033, W www.sorrentotourism.com), which has free maps and bus and ferry timetables, and information about excursions. You can walk pretty much everywhere in Sorrento, but if you want a bit of easy orientation, there are mini train tours that leave every 35 minutes from Piazza Tasso (daily 9am–midnight; €6 adults, €3 children); tours last about thirty minutes. If you don’t want to rely on public transport, you can rent scooters at Jolly Service & Rent, just off the eastern end of Corso Italia at Via degli Aranci 180 (T 081 877 3450), and at the other end of town at Corso Italia 3 (T 081.878.2403); rates start at €27 a day, €150 a week.

Accommodation Astoria Via Santa Maria delle Grazie 24 T 081.807.4030, W www.hotelastoria sorrento.com. It’s unusual to ﬁnd a hotel right in the heart of old Sorrento, and this place is quite special, with reasonably sized doubles that have been nicely furnished and equipped, the best of which overlook a peaceful garden; prices include an excellent buffet breakfast. 4 Casa Astarita Corso Italia 69 T081.877.3991, W www.casastarita.com. Six nice rooms overlooking the street, all with bathroom, ﬂatscreen TVs and fridges, and including internet access and a good breakfast round a communal table each morning. Cosy, friendly, and in a good position, it’s one of Sorrento’s best options at this price. 3 Désirée Via Capo 31/B T 081.878.1563, Wwww .desireehotelsorrento.com. About 700m from the end of Corso Italia, this is a nice small hotel with very friendly management and good-sized doubles with balconies overlooking the sea (triples and quads also available) – though they vary a bit in size. Breakfast is included. 4

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La Minervetta Via Capo 25 T 081.877.4455, W www.laminervetta.com. Sorrento’s only boutique hotel perches on the cliff overlooking Marina Grande. There’s a lovely lounge terrace overlooking the sea, and below that a plunge pool and steps leading down to Marina Grande’s beaches and restaurants. And the rooms are gorgeous – prices start at around €300 for one of their deluxe rooms. 9 Mami Camilla Via Cocumella 4 T081.878.2067, Wwww.mamicamilla .com. A great option, and one of the cheapest in town, with simple but nicely furnished rooms in a wonderfully peaceful villa in the suburb of Sant-Agnello, about ﬁfteen minutes’ walk from the centre of town. Owner and chef Biagio cooks up a storm in the kitchen and they run regular cooking courses if you want to get in on the act. 2 Mignon Via Sersale 9 T081.807.3824, Wwww.sorrentohotelmignon.com. A really nice and well-located two-star with 24 very well appointed rooms, all with satellite TV, a/c and free internet access. 3

Hotels

Hostels and campsites

There’s a private youth hostel, Le Sirene, Via degli Aranci 160 (T 081.807.2925, W www.hostellesirene.com; dorm beds €16–22.50, doubles 1 , including breakfast), which is a bit spartan but decent enough and has internet access and wi-ﬁ. To get there from the train station, turn right on the main road and Via degli Aranci is 200m down on the left. The closest of the campsites is the scenic and convenient Ferry Terminal

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Marina Grande & Marina di Puolo

Ferries to Positano, Amalﬁ, Capri, Ischia, Naples & Castellammare

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Nube d’Argento site, on the other side of the town centre, 100m from the end of Corso Italia at Via del Capo 21 (T 081.878.1344, W www.nubedargento.com; prices start at €11 per person plus €6–10 for a tent); they also have two-person bungalows (2 ). If that’s full, try the slightly cheaper Santa Fortunata, just over a kilometre further on at Via del Capo 41 (T 081.807.3579, W www.santafortunata .com; April–Oct; €10 person plus €6 per tent), which has a swimming pool, private beach and superb sea views. They also have mini chalets for backpackers for €38 per person in high season, and two-person bungalows (2 ). CAMPANI A

The Town

| Sorrento

Sorrento’s centre is Piazza Tasso, built astride the gorge that runs through the centre of town; it was named after the wayward sixteenth-century Italian poet to whom the town was home and has a statue of him in the far corner. There’s nothing much to see in the town itself, but it’s nice to wander through the streets that feed into the square, some of which are pedestrianized for the lively evening passeggiata. Via San Cesareo forms a backbone to the small grid of streets, most of them lined with shops selling tourist gear and limoncello. It’s worth strolling down from here to linger in the shady gardens of the Villa Comunale, whose terrace has lovely views out to sea. Off to the right, you can also peek into the small thirteenth-century cloister of the church of San Francesco just outside, planted with vines and bright bougainvillea – a peaceful escape from the bustle of the rest of Sorrento. Skirting the northern edge of the old town, Sorrento’s main artery is Corso Italia, and this is also pedestrianized every evening after 7pm for the lively evening passeggiata. A little way down on the left, Sorrento’s Cattedrale has been much rebuilt, and the real challenge of its gaudy interior is how to tell the fake marble from the real marble. A bit further on, you can walk around a small section of the Bastioni di Parsano (daily 10am–1pm & 7–11pm; free), a sixteenth-century reconstruction of the town’s originally Roman walls: they are most interesting at night when all lit up. The nearby Museo Bottega della Tarsialignea at Via San Nicola 28 ( June–Sept Tues–Sun 10am–1pm & 4–7.30pm; Oct–May Tues–Sun 10am–1pm & 3–6.30pm; €8), housed in an ancient mansion in the artisanal quarter of the old town, is a shrine to Sorrento’s craft speciality of inlaid woodwork – cheap and pretty awful examples of which you see all over town. Don’t let the tourist tat put you off: the ground ﬂoor here has some clever and stylish examples of contemporary intarsio work (it’s for sale, but not at all cheap), while upstairs displays the work of Sorrento’s late nineteenth-century intarsio greats. At the other end of town, the local Museo Correale di Terranova, housed in the airy former palace of a family of local counts at the far end of Via Correale (daily except Tues 9am–1.30pm; €6), has more examples of intarsio, various Roman ﬁnds, along with a lot of badly lit paintings by local artists upstairs, best of which by far is the late eighteenth-century roulette game, Il Biri Bisso, painted on wood by one Francesco Celebrano.

The beaches

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Strange as it may seem, Sorrento isn’t particularly well provided with beaches, and in the town itself you either have to make do with the small strips of sand of the Marina San Francesco lido, right below the Villa Comunale gardens and accessible by a lift or steps, or the rocks and tiny, crowded strip of sand at Marina Grande – ﬁfteen minutes’ walk or a short bus ride (roughly every 30min) west of Piazza Tasso. Both places charge for beds and parasols, although there is a small patch of sand, immediately right of the lift exit at Marina San Francesco, that is

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free. There are several ways to get down to Marina Grande on foot: the nicest are either following the city walls from the end of Via S. Nicola or by following the road that edges past the Hotel Bellevue Syrene off Villa Communale; both end up at the same ﬂights of steps that lead down to the east end of Marina Grande’s bay, just above the Da Emilia restaurant. If you don’t fancy the crowds in Sorrento, you can try the beaches further west. Twenty minutes’ walk from the centre of Sorrento along Via del Capo (which is the continuation of Corso Italia), or a short bus ride from Piazza Tasso, there are a couple of options. The ﬁrst is the Ruderi Villa Romana Pollio, ten minutes’ walk from the bus stop at Capo di Sorrento on the main road, where the ruins of a Roman villa lie on and around the seashore rocks. The other is reachable by strolling 100m further along the main road and taking a path off to the right just before the Hotel Dania, which shortcuts in ten minutes or so to the Marina di Puolo, a short stretch of mainly sandy beach lined by ﬁshing boats and a handful of trattorias that is perhaps the best place to swim just outside Sorrento. In the opposite direction, the adjacent-but-one town of Meta is home to Alimuri beach – two decent-sized stretches of grey sand that face away from each other on a small spit that sticks out from the high-sided cliffs of the bay here. A lift can deliver you there from the road above, or you can drive down to a small car park.

Eating and drinking Cafés and gelaterie Bar Ercolano Piazza Tasso. The friendlier and less self-important of the two main bar terraces on Piazza Tasso, and a good place to watch the world go by. Circolo dei Foriestieri Via Luigi di Maio 35. Fancy old-world charm, decently priced if basic food, and wonderful views. A good place for a pre-dinner aperitif, when you can pretend you’re staying in one of the swanky hotels with seaview terraces. Fauno Piazza Tasso 13/15. This large and longestablished bar serves excellent coffee and has the town’s biggest terrace for people-watching during the evening passeggiata. A wide array of food, too. La Primavera Corso Italia 142. There’s a good choice of ﬂavours at this veteran gelateria right in the centre of town, off Piazza Tasso. Check out the photos of the famous and infamous who have stopped by for a quick cono.

Restaurants Bufalito Vico Fuoro I 21 T 081.365.6975. A great, relaxed and busy restaurant specializing in buffalo dishes – cheese, steaks, sausages and “slow” local and seasonal produce. Good pasta dishes and inventive mains, big baskets of country breads cheese platters and delicious antipasti misti. Da Emilia Via Marina Grande 62 T081.807.2720. With a menu as short as those in the upper town are long, this restaurant serves simple food in perhaps Sorrento’s best location – on the waterfront at Marina Grande. Very good for simple

pasta dishes, with half a dozen great seafood and tomato-based primi, and the same number of principally ﬁsh secondi. No credit cards. Il Buco Rampa Marina Piccola 11, Piazza San Antonino T081.878.2354. Housed in the wine cellar of a former monastery, this is Sorrento at its gastronomic best, with a real variety of antipasti and primi that focus on local ingredients and a secondi menu that is mainly about ﬁsh. You can order à la carte and pay around €18 for a pasta dish, €25 for a main course, or choose from menus that start at €50 for three courses to €85 for six. Closed Wed. La Fenice Via degli Aranci 11 T081.878.1652. This long-established favourite has a lovely covered patio and a lively atmosphere. Its speciality is ﬁsh, though it also does decent pizzas, and mains for around €18. Closed Mon. La Lanterna Via San Cesareo 23 T081.878.1355. Down a dead end just off Piazza Tasso, this has long been one of the better restaurants in the centre of town, with tables outside and consistently good food – great ﬁsh, but much else besides. It’s moderately priced, and the service is excellent.

Bars Bollicine Via Accademia 7. In the heart of the old town, this small, wood-panelled wine bar has a wide range of good Campanian wines, draught beer, a cosy atmosphere – and tapas-style food too. Chaplin’s Corso Italia 18. Maybe the nicest of Sorrento’s English-style pubs, family-run with lovely,

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welcoming owners and lots of live sport on their array of TVs. Check out the wisdom behind the bar dispensed by the legions of inebriated holidaymakers who have passed through over the years. Photo Via Correale 19/21. Just beyond Piazza Tasso, this is a deliberately cool bar-restaurant,

though its studied boutiquey ambience means you could be pretty much anywhere. The Garden Corso Italia 50/52. This wine shop and wine bar has a few tables inside and out and is a great place for a drink, or to have a bite from an array of snacks.

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The islands

| The islands • Cápri

Guarding each prong of the Bay of Naples, the islands of Cápri, Ischia and Prócida between them make up the best-known group of Italian islands. Each is a very different creature, though. Cápri is a place of legend, home to the mythical Sirens and a much-eulogized playground of the super-rich in the years since – though now settled down to a lucrative existence as a target for day-trippers from the mainland. Visit by all means, but bear in mind that you have to hunt hard these days to detect the origins of much of the purple prose. Ischia is a target for package tours (predominantly from Germany) and weekenders from Naples, but its size means that it doesn’t feel as crowded as Cápri, and plentiful hot springs, sandy beaches and a green volcanic interior make the island well worth a few days’ visit. Pretty Prócida, the smallest of the islands and the least interesting – though the best venue for fairly peaceful lazing – remains reasonably untouched by the high season.

Cápri

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Sheering out of the sea just off the far end of the Sorrentine peninsula, the island of Cápri has long been the most sought-after part of the Bay of Naples. During Roman times Augustus retreated to the island’s gorgeous cliffbound scenery to escape the cares of office; later Tiberius moved the imperial capital here, indulging himself in legendarily debauched antics until his death in 37 AD. After the Romans left, Cápri was rather neglected until the early nineteenth century, when the discovery of the Blue Grotto and the island’s remarkable natural landscape coincided nicely with the rise of tourism. The English especially have always ﬂocked here: D.H. Lawrence and George Bernard Shaw were among its more illustrious visitors; Graham Greene and Gracie Fields had houses here; and even Lenin visited for a time after the failure of the 1905 uprising. Cápri tends to get a mixed press these days, the consensus being that while it might have been an attractive place once, it’s been pretty much ruined by the crowds and the prices. And Cápri is crowded, to the degree that in July and August, and on all summer weekends, it’s sensible to give it a miss, though the island does still have a unique charm, and it would be hard to ﬁnd a place with more inspiring views. It is expensive, although prices aren’t really any higher than at other major Italian resorts, and you can ﬁnd very reasonably priced and attractive accommodation in Anacápri. Alternatively, just visit on a day-trip, which should give you time enough to see the major sights of the island.

Getting to the islands

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| Cápri

Ferries and hydrofoils from the mainland to the islands operate from Naples, Pozzuoli and Sorrento, with some connections from Salerno, Amalﬁ and Positano. There are two departure points in Naples: the main harbour (Molo Beverello), at the bottom of Piazza Municipio, and the quayside at Mergellina. Whichever route you take, day-trips are quite feasible; usually the last connection delivers you back on the mainland in time for dinner. On foot, you can simply buy tickets when you turn up at the ofﬁces at the port; in general it’s better to buy a single rather than a return ticket since it doesn’t work out to be more expensive and you retain more ﬂexibility on the time you come back. Having said that, on summer Sundays (especially on Cápri and Prócida, and especially by hydrofoil), it’s a good idea to buy your return ticket as soon as you arrive, to avoid the risk of ﬁnding the last boat or hydrofoil fully booked. If you’re looking at price, the state-run ferry Caremar is usually the cheapest. If you’re driving, you should probably book, or at least turn up well in advance – though there’s no real point in taking a car to any of the islands apart from Ischia. The following gives a rough idea of frequencies during the summer (they’re greatly reduced off-season). For speciﬁc timings, look in Il Mattino, where timetables are published every day, check with the local tourist ofﬁces or look up the companies online: Caremar (T892.123, Wwww.caremar.it), Alilauro (T081.497.2238, Wwww.lauro .it), SNAV (T081.428.5555, Wwww.snav.it), NLG (T081.552.0763, Wwww.navlib.it), Med Mar (T081.333.4411, Wwww.medmargroup.it) and Gescab (T081.420.2790, Wwww.consorziolmp.it). In any case, always double-check times, since they are far from set in stone.

Hydrofoils and fast ferries Naples (Molo Beverello)–Cápri (18 daily; 45–50min). Naples (Molo Beverello)–Casamícciola, Ischia (4 daily; 1hr). Naples (Molo Beverello)–Forío, Ischia (5 daily; 1hr). Naples (Molo Beverello)–Ischia Porto, Ischia (20 daily; 45–60min). Naples (Molo Beverello)–Prócida (10 daily; 45min). Naples (Mergellina)–Cápri (6 daily; 35min). Naples (Mergellina)–Casamícciola, Ischia (6 daily; 45min). Naples (Mergellina)–Forío (via Ischia Porto: 3 daily; 1hr). Naples (Mergellina)–Ischia Porto, Ischia (6 daily; 40min). Naples (Mergellina)–Prócida (2 daily; 20min). Casamícciola, Ischia–Prócida (6 daily; 20min). Ischia Porto, Ischia–Cápri (1 daily; 50min). Ischia Porto, Ischia–Procidá (3 daily; 15–20min). Sorrento–Ischia Porto, Ischia (1 daily direct; 1hr 30min). Sorrento–Cápri (16 daily; 20–25min). Pozzuoli–Procida (1 daily; 20min).

Ferries Naples (Molo Beverello)–Cápri (7 daily; 1hr 20min). Naples (Molo Beverello)–Casamícciola, Ischia (4 daily; 2hr). Naples (Molo Beverello)–Ischia Porto, Ischia (8 daily; 1hr 30min). Naples (Molo Beverello)–Prócida (8 daily; 1hr). Pozzuoli–Ischia Porto, Ischia (6 daily; 1hr). Pozzuoli–Casamícciola, Ischia (5 daily; 1hr 30min). Pozzuoli–Prócida (6 daily; 35min). Pozzuoli–Capri (1 daily; 1hr 30min). Ischia Porto, Ischia–Prócida (6 daily; 25min). Sorrento–Cápri (2 daily; 50min).

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Ischia & Prócida

Naples

Sorrento, Positano, Amalﬁ & Salerno

CÁPRI Punta dell’Arcera

Punta del Capo Blue Grotto VIA G

ROT

Punta del Míglio

TA A

Bagni di Tiberio

Villa Jovis

Marina Grande ZZ

UR

Villa Fersen

Villa San Michele

RA

ERI O VIA T I B Grotta Bianca

Cala del Rio

RA

G

MI

Arco Naturale

Monte Solaro (589m)

a Cal

Scoglio del Monacone

Belvedere di Tragara

I Faraglioni

Punta Ventroso

arm ol a ta

M

| Cápri

Marina Piccola

Punta del Pino Belvedere della Migliara

Cala di Matermánia

Grotta di Matermánia

LIA

V IA

VI A N

Cápri

FARO DE L

UO

RO DEI FORTI NI

VA

IE SENT

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Monte Solaro (Chair Lift)

Anacápri Punta Campitello

Punta Carena

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Arrival and information There are three tourist offices on the island (W www.capritourism.com). The tourist booth at Marina Grande is just on the left at the beginning of the quay (April–Oct Mon–Sat 8.30am–8.30pm, Sun 9am–3pm; Nov–March Mon–Sat 9am–3pm; T 081.837.0634) and sells a handy map (€1); in Cápri Town there is an office at Piazza Umberto I (April–Oct Mon–Sat 8.30am–8.30pm, Sun 9am–3pm; Nov–March Mon–Sat 9am–1pm & 3.30–6.45pm; T 081.837.0686); and there’s another in Anacápri, at Via G. Orlandi 59 (Mon–Sat 8.30am–2.30pm & 3.30–7pm, Sun 9am–3pm; T 081.837.1524). All hydrofoils and ferries arrive at Marina Grande, roughly in the middle of Cápri’s northern coast, with the island’s main town perched up the hill. It’s a busy quayside but there’s nothing much to see, and you may as well head straight on to Cápri Town. You could walk it, but with 300 steps to climb most people take the funicular (daily every 15min 6.30am–10pm, till midnight April–Sept; Sat & Sun 10am–6pm every 5min; €1.40 one way) or, if there are queues, a bus. The island’s bus service connects all the main centres – Marina Grande, Cápri, Marina Piccola, Anacápri – every ﬁfteen minutes; they also run regularly down to the Blue Grotto from Anacápri, and also to Punta Carena. Tickets cost €1.40 for a single trip, €2.20 for an hour and €6.90 for a day. An alternative is one of Cápri’s stylish convertible taxis, but these are very expensive; there’s a taxi stand out of the port and up to the right (T 081.837.0543).

Accommodation If you’re contemplating staying overnight on Cápri in peak season – and the island is a lot quieter after the day-tripping crowds have gone home – book well ahead as space is extremely limited. Cápri Town and Marina Grande 770

Da Giorgio Via Roma 34 T 081.837.5777, W www.dagiorgiocapri.com. Gracious rooms with views of the bay, this is an excellent choice, not least because the same property also boasts

one of the island’s best restaurants. Closed Jan & Feb. 4 Italia Via Marina Grande 204 T 081.837.0602, Wwww.hotelitaliacapri.com. This elegant old mansion, surrounded by ﬂower gardens and occupying its own corner on the road up to Cápri

Anacápri and around

| Cápri

La Bougainville Viale Tommaso de Tommaso 6 T081.837.3641, W www.hlb.it. A comfortable choice, set in a lush ﬂower garden, which some rooms overlook, just a couple of minutes’ walk down the main road from the centre of Anacápri. Rooms are comfortable and nicely furnished and amenities include a good restaurant, a solarium and guest pick-up/drop-off at Marina Grande. Closed mid-Nov to mid-March. 5 La Bussola Traversa La Vigna 14 T081.838.2010, Wwww.bussolahermes.com. This boutiquey hotel is a true oasis of peace, ten minutes’ walk from the centre of Anacápri. Cool, stylish rooms, all with balconies, and a friendly, welcoming vibe. Closed Nov–Feb. 4 Villa Eva Via La Fabbrica 8 T081.837.1549, Wwww.villaeva.com. For a long time now, Villa Eva has been the cult budget option of the island, and the legend only gets better. A wide choice of individually styled rooms to choose from, most of them spacious and light, as well as a grand-piano-shaped pool and a welcoming poolhouse/snack bar, where breakfast is served. Closed Nov–March. 4

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Town is full of charm. All the airy rooms have private balconies and half of them sea-views; the others look out over the gardens. Breakfast €10 extra. Open year-round. 3 Paziella Via Fuorlovado 36 T 081.837.0044, W www.apaziella.com. Cool and breezy even on the hottest day, this place has a palpable serenity, yet it’s located in the middle of town. The rooms are elegant and comfortable, many with private balconies and sea views, and there are lovely gardens and free use of the next-door Sirene hotel’s pool. Closed mid-Oct to March. 6 –7 Quattro Stagioni Via Marina Piccola 1, Cápri Town T 081.837.0041, W www.hotel4stagionicapri.com. In a pretty location, a little way out of Cápri Town at the fork of the roads to Marina Piccola and Anacápri, this place offers a 10 percent discount to carriers of this book from mid-March to Oct. 3 Weber Ambassador Via Marina Piccola, Marina Piccola T 081.837.0141, Wwww.hotelweber.com. This comfortable choice has great views from its multi-levelled terrace. Cosy and elegant inside, and steps leading directly down to the Marina Piccola beach. 4

Cápri Town and Marina Piccola CÁPRI is the main town of the island, nestled between two mountains. Its houses are connected by winding, hilly alleyways that give onto the dinky main square of Piazza Umberto I, or “La Piazzetta”, crowded with café tables and lit by twinkling fairy lights in the evenings. Don’t neglect the maze of charming streets behind La Piazzetta, or the covered walkways up the steps to the right as you enter the square, past the Baroque dome of the seventeenth-century parish church of Santo Stefano, itself also worth a look for its marble ﬂoor originally from the ancient Roman Villa Jovis and the ruins of other Tiberian villas. On the far side of town is the Certosa San Giacomo on Viale Certosa 11 (Tues–Sat 9am–2pm, Sun 9am–1pm; free) a run-down old monastery with a multilingual lending library and a small collection of metaphysical paintings by Karl Diefenbach, a German painter who lived on the island until his death in 1913. On past the monastery, at the other side of the island, the Giardini di Augusto give tremendous views of the coast below and the towering jagged cliffs above. The zigzag pathway down, Via Krupp, was reopened in 2008 after being closed for 32 years due to the danger of falling rocks, and you can wind down to either the beach (rocks really), or, beyond, to Marina Piccola – a small huddle of houses and restaurants around patches of pebble beach: reasonably uncrowded out of season, though in July or August you might as well forget it. Marina Piccola is also accessible by bus from the Cápri Town bus terminus. Around Cápri Town

Up above the Certosa, and a further pleasant walk ﬁfteen minutes through Cápri Town, the Belvedere del Cannone has marvellous views, especially over the Faraglioni rocks to the left and Marina Piccola to the right. Further out of Cápri Town, there are two walks worth doing to the eastern edge of the island. One, up to the ruins of Tiberius’s villa, the Villa Jovis (daily 9am to 1hr before sunset; €2),

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| Cápri

is a steep forty-minute hike from Piazza Umberto following Via Botteghe out of the square and then Via Tiberio up the hill – it’s well signposted. It was here that Tiberius retired in 27 AD, reportedly to lead a life of vice and debauchery and to take revenge on his enemies, many of whom he apparently had thrown off the cliff face. You can see why he chose the site: it’s among Cápri’s most exhilarating, with incredible vistas of the Sorrentine Peninsula, including the Amalﬁ Coast, and the bay; on a clear day you can even see Salerno and beyond. There’s not much left of the villa, but you can get a good sense of the shape and design of its various parts from the arched halls and narrow passageways that remain. Below here (and an easier and shorter walk from Piazza Umberto), there’s another villa, the more recent Villa Lysis (Tues–Sat 9am–noon, 2–6pm; free), known to locals as Villa Fersen after Count Fersen-Adelsward, a somewhat dissolute gay French-Swedish writer who built the house in the early 1900s. The house is empty now, but the location is amazing, and its echoing rooms and panoramic terraces retain a pungent atmosphere, with a handful of photos taken here of the count and his friends and lovers. You can look round the upstairs bedrooms with what would have been at the time state-of-the-art ﬁtted bathrooms, one with a sunken bath, and a basement den where the count used to smoke opium. He passed away in style here in 1923 after overdoing it on a cocktail of champagne and cocaine – a somehow ﬁtting end to a hedonistic life. Another walk you can do is to the Arco Naturale, an impressive natural rock formation at the end of a high, lush valley, a 25-minute stroll from Cápri Town, again following Via Botteghe out of the square but branching off up Via Matermania after ten minutes or so; just follow the signs. You can get quite close to the arch owing to the specially constructed viewing platforms. Just before the path descends towards the arch, steps lead down to the Grotta di Matermania, ten minutes away down quite a few steps – a dusty cutaway out of the rock that was converted to house a shrine to the goddess Cybele by the Romans. Steps lead on down from the cave, sheer through the trees, before ﬂattening into a ﬁne path that you can follow to the Tragara Belvedere, affording some of the island’s best views along the way, and, eventually, back to Cápri Town – reachable in about an hour.

Anacápri

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The island’s other main settlement, ANACÁPRI, is more sprawling than Cápri itself and less obviously picturesque, its main square, Piazza della Vittoria, ﬂanked by souvenir shops, bland fashion boutiques and restaurants decked with tourist menus – Cápri without the chic. A short walk away from Piazza della Vittoria down Via G. Orlandi, the church of San Michele (daily: April–Oct 9am–7pm; Nov–March 9.30am–3pm; €2) is one of two principal sights, its tiled ﬂoor painted with an eighteenth-century depiction of the Fall that you view from an upstairs balcony – a lush work after a drawing by the Neapolitan painter Solimena, in rich blues and yellows, showing cats, unicorns and other creatures. The other is a walk in the opposite direction from Piazza della Vittoria, past a long gauntlet of souvenir stalls to Axel Munthe’s Villa San Michele (daily: March 9am–4.30pm; April & Oct 9am–5pm; May–Sept 9am–6pm; Nov–Feb 9am–3.30pm; €6; W www.villasanmichele.eu), a light, airy house with lush and fragrant gardens that is one of the real highlights of the island. A nineteenth-century Swedish writer and physician to the elite, Munthe lived here for a number of years, and the place is ﬁlled with his furniture and knick-knacks, as well as Roman artefacts and columns plundered from a ruined villa on the site. Busts and bronzes abound, Corinthian capitals are converted as coffee tables, other surfaces topped with intricate Cosmati mosaic-work. His book The Story of San Michele – more the story of his life

– is well worth reading. There’s also an attractive, small natural-history exhibition in the gardens, which ﬁlls you in on local ﬂora and fauna. Monte Solaro and the Blue Grotto

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| Cápri

A chair lift operates from Piazza della Vittoria up to Monte Solaro (daily: March– Oct 9.30am to 5pm; Nov–Feb 10.30am–3pm; return €9, one way €7), the island’s highest point (596m). The trip only takes thirteen minutes and there’s not much at the top – a ruined castle and a café – but the ride and the location are very tranquil and the 360-degree views are marvellous – perhaps the bay’s very best. Continuing in the same direction, a good 45-minute hike away starting off down Via Lo Pozzo (or reachable by bus every twenty minutes from the bus station on Via di Tomasso), you come to the Blue Grotto or Grotta Azzurra, probably the island’s best-known feature – though also its most exploitative, the boatmen here whisking visitors onto boats and in and out of the grotto in about ﬁve minutes ﬂat (daily 9am to 1hr before sunset, though not in adverse weather; rowboat into the grotto €7.50, plus admission €4). The grotto is quietly impressive, the blue of its innards caused by sunlight entering the cave through the water, but it’s rather overrated. Technically, you can swim into the cave – it’s not the exclusive preserve of the boatmen, though they’ll try to persuade you otherwise – but the route through is so busy that unless you’re a strong swimmer it’s only advisable to try at the end of the day after the tours have ﬁnished. You can also get here direct from Marina Grande for €12 per person.

Eating The island is overloaded with places to eat, but only a few of them are anywhere near good-value, so you can always knock yourself up a picnic lunch if you prefer: in Cápri Town there are a supermarket and bakery a little way down Via le Botteghe, off La Piazzetta, and a well-stocked salumerie at Via Roma 13 and 30. Tucked away just a few metres back down towards Marina Grande from the island’s little roundabout, there’s also a sizeable supermarket that carries just about every sort of food and more. Cápri Town and Marina Grande Buca di Bacco Via Longano 25 T 081.837.0723. Just behind La Piazzetta, this old favourite is rated by locals and visitors alike as one of the best; try the spaghetti alla pescatora for €15, or fresh ﬁsh mains start around €10. Closed Mon & Jan. Da Gemma Via Madre Seraﬁna 6 T081.837.0461. Graham Greene’s favourite restaurant, and still one of Cápri’s best choices, up the steps from La Piazzetta in a whitewashed arcade. The buffet spread is generally good, as is pretty much everything else, and they do decent wood-ﬁred pizzas. Closed Nov–April and Thurs May, June & Oct. Da Giorgio Via Roma 34 T081.837.0898. This is a popular and very central choice in a picturesque location, and the food is excellent if not exactly cheap – try the linguine ai frutti di mare for €17. The place also offers good-value hotel rooms (see “Accommodation”). Closed Tues & Jan–Feb. La Capannina Via le Botteghe 12bis T081.837.0732. Up to the left from La Piazzetta, this place is considered by many as the island’s

top restaurant, and it has colonized the area with its cosy wine bar around the corner and wine shop opposite. Prices are moderate-to-high even by Cápri standards, with pasta dishes for €13–25 and ﬁsh mains €25. Closed Wed and Nov to mid-March. Sollievo Via Fuorlovado 36 T081.837.0665. Bright and airy restaurant a couple of minutes from La Piazzetta that is pretty reasonably priced (for Cápri), with pasta for €12–16 and mains from around €12. Excellent food and service too, and a lovely big terrace.

Anacápri Il Solitario Via G. Orlandi 96 T081.837.1382. Take the little walkway back from the street and discover an arboured garden patio setting decorated with appealingly kitsch painted statues and coloured fairy lights. A family-run restaurant, the food is excellent – they do a very generous spaghetti alle vongole with home-made pasta, and great pizzas too; the prices are moderate, and the service very friendly. Closed Tues & Nov and two weeks in Feb.

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Lido del Faro T 081.837.1798. This great restaurant is set above the dramatic rocky cove below Anacápri’s lighthouse. Ladders lead down into the cove for sea-swimming, and there’s a pool as well (no children after 3pm). Food is expensive but really good, and the setting is gorgeous.

Materita Via G. Orlandi 140/Piazza Diaz T 081.837.3375. Attractive and well located, with cosy seating inside and terrace tables, too. The signature dish is the Neapolitan-style wood-ﬁred pizza, served both lunch and dinner, but there’s also a full menu. Closed Tues & Nov to mid-Dec.

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Ischia

| Ischia

Largest of the islands in the Bay of Naples, Ischia (pronounced Iss-kee-ah) rises out of the sea in a cone-shaped series of pointy green hummocks. German, Scandinavian and British tourists ﬂock here in large numbers during peak season, attracted by its charming beach resorts and thermal springs. Although its reputation has always been poorer than Cápri’s – it is perhaps not so dramatically beautiful – you can at least be sure of being alone in exploring parts of the mountainous interior, and La Mortella, the exotic garden cultivated by the British composer William Walton and his widow Susana, is an unmissable attraction. Indeed, if you’re after some beach lounging, good walking and lively nightlife within striking distance of Naples and the rest of the bay, it might be just the place.

ISCHIA

Lacco Ameno Spiaggia di San Francesco

La Mortella

Spiaggia di Chiaia

Ischia Porto

Casamícciola Terme Monterone

Ischia Ponte

Forío Monte Toppo (390m)

Fiaiano San Michele

Cuotto Spiaggia di Citara

Fontana Piedimonte

Ciglio

Molara

Buonopane Punta del Soccorso

Castello Aragonese

Vatoliere Serrara Fontana

Panza Succhivo

Fumarole

Il Sorgeto Sant’Angelo

Testaccio

Terme Cavascura

Spiaggia dei Maronti

Barano d’Ischia

Spiaggia di San Pancrazio Punta San Pancrazio

Punta Sant’Angelo 774

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Cápri & Salerno

Monte Trippodi (502m)

Monte Epomeo (789m)

Spiaggia di Cava dell’Isola

Prócida, Pozzuoli, Naples & Sorrento

Baia di San Montano Punta Caruso

Ischia Porto and Ponte

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The main town of Ischia is ISCHIA PORTO, where the ferries dock, an appealing stretch of hotels, ritzy boutiques and beach shops planted with lemon trees and Indian ﬁgs fronted by golden sands: Spiaggia San Pietro is to the right of the port, accessible by following Via Buonocore off Via Roma. The inexplicably named Spiaggia degli Inglesi, on the other side is reachable by way of the narrow path that leads over the headland from the end of Via Jasolino. Apart from the sunbathing the main thing to do is to window-shop and stroll along the main Corso Vittoria Colonna, either branching off to a further beach, the Spiaggia dei Pescatori, or following it all the way down to the other part of Ischia’s main town, ISCHIA PONTE, also reachable by bus #7, a quieter and less commercialized centre. Ischia Ponte is home to the island’s Museo del Mare (daily except Mon: April–June, Sept & Oct 10.30am–12.30pm & 3–7pm; July & Aug 10.30am–12.30pm & 6.30–10pm; Nov–March 10.30am–12.30; closed Feb; €2.50), which traces the community’s seafaring roots with ancient, barnacle-encrusted pottery retrieved from the sea and samples of marine fauna, as well as the full range of navigation instruments from sextants to sonar. But the main focus of this area is the Castello Aragonese (daily 9am to 1hr before sunset; €10, includes the lift to the top), accessible via a short causeway, whose stunningly distinctive pyramid was one of the backdrops in the ﬁlm The Talented Mr Ripley. The citadel itself is rather tumbledown now and some of it is closed to the public, but below is a complex of buildings, almost a separate village really, around which you can stroll by way of olive-shaded paths and lush terraces. There’s the weird open shell of a cathedral destroyed by the British in 1806, a prison that once held political prisoners during the Uniﬁcation struggle, and the macabre remnants of a convent, in which a couple of dark rooms ringed with a set of commode-like seats served as a cemetery for the dead sisters – placed here to putrefy in front of the living members of the community. The rest of the convent has been converted to a rather nice hotel (see p.776). Practicalities

Ischia Porto’s helpful tourist office is right by the quayside ferry ticket offices (daily 8.30am–1.30pm & 4–9pm; T 081.507.4231, W www.infoischiaprocida.it); there’s another in the Museo del Mare building in Ischia Ponte and in summer a tourist booth sets up between the two on Corso Vittoria Colonna. The bus terminus is just behind here: buses CS (clockwise) and CD (counterclockwise) circle the island every thirty minutes, stopping just about everywhere. Tickets cost €1.30 and are valid for ninety minutes, day-tickets are €4.20, two-day tickets €6.50, three-day tickets €8.50. There is plenty of accommodation in Ischia Ponte and Ischia Porto, though bear in mind that many places close from November to Easter, opening only for a short time between Christmas and New Year. Due to its role as the arrivals harbour, Ischia Porto is a livelier place to stay, but Ponte is decidedly more charming, and preferable for long-term stays. Hotels and campsites Continental Mare Via B. Cossa 25, Porto T081.982.577, Wwww.continentalmare.it. A breezily elegant hotel in a splendid location above the port with its own stretch of beach. Rooms are spacious and contemporary in style, the best ones enjoying balconies with sea views. 5 –6

Eurocamping dei Pini Via delle Ginestre 28, Porto T081.982.069, Wwww.ischia.it/camping. A pleasant campsite with nice stands of trees a short walk from the port. To get there, follow Via Mazzella away from the sea and turn right several roads after the football ﬁelds. €10 per person plus €10 per tent; two-person bungalows 2

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Il Monastero Castello Aragonese, Ponte T 081.992.433, Wwww.albergoilmonastero .it. Located on the upper ﬂoors of the Castello Aragonese, this is the place to stay in Ischia Ponte, with twenty-odd guestrooms in former nuns’ cells, which are suitably spare but coolly and stylishly furnished. The hotel has a broad, sunny terrace overlooking the sea and a picturesque café and restaurant, Il Terrazzo. 4 Locanda sul Mare Via Jasolino 80, Porto T 081.981.470, Wwww.locandasulmare.it. Right on the waterfront just beyond the ferry terminal port, this tiny, idiosyncratically decorated and very pleasant hotel is a great bargain and has a decent restaurant. 2 –3 Macrí Via Jasolino 78/A, Porto T081.992.603. Situated just behind its rival, Locanda sul Mare, this has simple, pleasantly furnished rooms, parking, and a very warm welcome. 2 –3

Cafés, restaurants and bars Al Pontile Via Luigi Mazzella 15, Lungomare Aragonese 6, Ponte T 081.983.492. On the waterfront directly opposite the Castello, this café and unassuming little restaurant

serves anything from just drinks and light snacks and salads. Calise Caffè Piazza degli Eroi 69, Porto T081.991.270. An island institution in many locations, this branch is set in the midst of a veritable jungle oasis and is a truly all-purpose venue, serving up everything from excellent ice cream to scrumptious cakes and sandwiches, tavola calda dishes and pizzas. After hours, it becomes a lounge bar and music venue and is open until 4am in the summer. Closed Wed Nov–March. Da Coco’ Piazzale Aragonese, Ponte T081.981.823. In an enviable position just below the Castello Aragonese, this bar-restaurant boasts lovely sea views and great seafood for around €10. Closed Wed Sept–April. Gennaro Via Porto 59, Porto T 081.992.917. One of a string of restaurants on the harbourfront but one of the longest-established and best, with great seafood pasta and risottos for €9–12 and excellent ﬁsh and seafood mains as well – all presided over by the ever-attentive Gennaro himself. Wash it down with the local Ischia DOC wine made with white Biancolella grapes. Closed Nov to mid-March.

Casamícciola Terme and Lacco Ameno The island is at its most developed along its northern and western shores – heading west from Ischia Porto. The ﬁrst village you reach, CASAMÍCCIOLA TERME, is a spa centre with many hotels and a crowded central beach – though you can ﬁnd a quieter one on the far side of the village. Ibsen spent a summer here, and the waters are said to be full of iodine (apparently beneﬁcial for the skin and the nervous system), but otherwise you may as well push on to LACCO AMENO, a brighter little town, again with a beach and with spa waters that are said to be the most radioactive in Italy. It’s known for the ten-metre-tall offshore tufa rock, affectionately nicknamed Il Fungo, and the Museo Archeologico di Pithecusa, housed in the eighteenth-century Villa Arbusto just above the centre of town (Tues–Sun: June–Sept 9.30am–12.30pm & 4–7.30pm; Oct–May 9.30am–12.30pm & 3–6.30pm; €5), whose most celebrated piece is the Coppa di Nestore, engraved with a light-hearted challenge to the cup mentioned in Homer’s Iliad, while a shipwreck scene on a locally made bowl is thought to be the oldest example of ﬁgurative painting in Italy. You can also wander around the villa’s gardens, which have lovely views over the town and are home to a couple of other galleries.

La Mortella

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Between Lacco Ameno and Forío, at Via F. Calise 39 (ask the bus driver to drop you off ), the stunning garden of La Mortella (Easter–Oct Tues, Thurs, Sat & Sun 9am–7pm; W www.ischia.it/mortella; €12) is one of Ischia’s highlights, created by the English composer William Walton and his Argentinian widow Susana, who lived here until her death in 2010. The Waltons moved to Ischia, then sparsely populated and little known to tourists, in 1949, forerunners of a

The growing resort of FORÍO sprawls around its bay, and is quite pretty behind a seafront of bars and pizzerias, focusing around the busy main street of Corso Umberto. Out on the point on the far side of the old centre (turn right at the far end of Corso Umberto), the simple Chiesa Soccorso is a bold, whitewashed landmark from which to survey the town. There are good beaches either side of Forío: the Spiaggia di Chiaia, a short walk to the north; to the south Cava del Isola, which is popular with a young crowd; and the Spiaggia di Citara, a somewhat longer walk to the south along Via G. Mazzella. Here you’ll ﬁnd the Giardini Poseidon, an extensive complex of blissfully relaxing thermal baths on the seafront (April–Oct daily 9am–7pm; €30 per day, €25 for a half-day, beginning at 1pm; W www.giardiniposeidonterme.com). If you want to stay in Forío, try the charming and central Punta del Sole on Piazza Maltese (T 081.989.156, W www.casthotels.com; 3 ), which has balconied rooms set in a beautiful garden; or, in the centre of Forío, there’s the friendly and fun Ring Hostel, Via Gaetano Morgera 66 (T 081.987.546, W www .ringhostel.com; dorm beds from €17, doubles from 1 ), cheerfully run by three local brothers who all speak English and provide transport shuttles around the island, as well as other excursions. Just outside town, a short drive or bus ride away, Casa Lora, Via Costa 16 (T 335.584.9988, W www.casaloraischia.it; 3 ), is pretty much the perfect Ischian hideaway, a whitewashed country house set in its own lush grounds, with pool, Turkish bath and a shady lemon grove slung with hammocks. Dinner, eaten at a long table on the terrace with other guests, is available every night. There are some good eating options in town too, including the delightful Umberto a Mare, tucked under the Chiesa Soccorso at Via Soccorso 2 (T 081.997.171; closed lunch & Jan–March), with a pretty whitewashed interior that looks out onto the sea and offers seasonal cuisine with lots of seafood, though it’s fairly pricey. A cheaper option is La Bussola, by the port at Via Marina 36 (T 081.997.645; closed Mon Oct–April), which serves wood-ﬁred pizzas for both lunch and dinner, has pasta from €6 and fresh ﬁsh from €10, as well as ample terrace seating.

| Ischia

Forío

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coterie of writers and artists including Auden and Terence Rattigan. With the garden designer Russell Page, they created La Mortella from an unpromising volcanic stone quarry. Paths wind up through the abundant site, which is home to some three hundred rare and exotic plants. Near the entrance is a glasshouse sheltering the world’s largest water lily, while above the glasshouse is a charming terraced tearoom, where the strains of Walton’s music can be heard. There’s also a museum, which shows a video about the composer and features portraits by Cecil Beaton, a bust by Elizabeth Frink, and paintings and set-designs by John Piper. Paths loop through luxuriant foliage to the pyramid-shaped rock that holds Walton’s ashes, a cascade guarded by a sculpted crocodile and a pretty Thai pavilion surrounded by heavyheaded purple agapanthus. At the garden’s summit, a belvedere provides superb views across the island.

Sant’Angelo and around Ischia is most pleasant on its southern side, the landscape steeper and greener, with fewer people to enjoy it. SANT’ANGELO is probably its loveliest spot, a tiny ﬁshing village crowded around a narrow isthmus linking with a humpy islet that’s out of bounds to buses, which drop you right outside. It’s inevitably quite developed, centring on a harbour and square crowded with café tables and

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| Prócida

surrounded by pricey boutiques, but if all you want to do is laze in the sun it’s perhaps the island’s most appealing spot to do so. There’s a reasonable beach lining one side of the isthmus that connects Sant’Angelo to its islet, as well as the nearby stretch of the Spiaggia dei Maronti, 1km east, which is accessible by plentiful taxi-boats from Sant’Angelo’s harbour (around €5), or on foot in about 25 minutes – take the path from the top of the village. Taxi-boats will drop you at one of a number of speciﬁc features: one, the Fumarole, is where steam emerges from under the rocks in a kind of outdoor sauna, popular on moonlit nights; further along, close by a couple of hotels, is a path that cuts inland through a mini-gorge to the Terme Cavascura, the most historic hot springs on the island, used since Roman times (May–Oct daily 8.30am– 6pm; €10 for swim and sauna; W www.cavascura.it). There are plenty of places to stay in and around Sant’Angelo. The very central La Palma, Via Conte Maddalena 15 (T 081.999.215, W www.lapalmatropical .it; mid-March–Oct; half-board only 6 ), is a Moorish-style villa that offers great views of Sant’Angelo and the bay and has plushly furnished rooms and an inviting garden terrace restaurant. Right on Maronti Beach itself, one of the best bargains is the Villa Casa Bianca, towards the eastern end of the beach (T 081.905.212, W www.casabiancaischia.it; March–Oct; half-board only 4 ), a gleaming Mediterranean villa with a pool and a sweeping terrace that affords views of Cápri. Finally, up in the village of Succhivo, ten minutes’ walk back in the direction of Forío (the bus passes right by), Casa Giuseppina, at Via Gaetano d’Iorio 11 (T 081.907.771, W www.casagiuseppina.it; April–Oct; minimum stay 3 nights at the weekend; half-board only 3 ), is a family-run, pleasantly rustic garden villa with a swimming pool and hot tub.

Fontana and Monte Epomeo Up above Sant’Angelo looms the craggy summit of Ischia’s now dormant volcano, Monte Epomeo. Both CD and CS buses regularly stop at FONTANA, a superb ride up, with wonderful views back over the coast, from where you can climb up to the summit of the volcano. Follow the signposted road off to the left from the centre of Fontana: after about ﬁve minutes it joins a larger road; after another ten to ﬁfteen minutes take the left fork, a stony track off the road, and follow this up to the summit – when in doubt, always fork left and you can’t go wrong. It’s a steep climb of an hour or so, especially at the end when the path becomes no more than a channel cut out of the soft rock. However, there are a couple of scenically placed cafés in which to gather your energies at the top, where the views are stunning. Bear in mind, too, that you can drive to within about twenty minutes of the summit, leaving your vehicle by the signs for the military exclusion zone.

Prócida

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A serrated hunk of volcanic rock that’s the smallest (population 10,000) and nearest island to Naples, Prócida has managed to fend off the kind of tourist numbers that have ﬂooded into Cápri and Ischia. It lacks the spectacle, or variety, of both islands, though it compensates with extra room and extra peace. The island’s main town, MARINA GRANDE, where you arrive by ferry, is a slightly run-down but picturesque conglomeration of tall pastel-painted houses rising from the waterfront to a network of steep streets winding up to

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| Prócida

the fortiﬁed tip of the island – the so-called Terra Murata. Part of this was once given over to a rather forbidding prison, now abandoned, but it’s worth walking up anyway to see the abbey church of San Michele (Mon–Sat 9.45am–12.45pm & 3–6pm, Sun 9.45am–12.45; €2 donation requested), whose domes are decorated with a stirring painting by Giordano of St Michael beating back the Turks from Prócida’s shore. The views, too, from the nearby belvedere are among the region’s best, taking in the whole of the Bay of Naples, from Capo Miseno bang in front of you right around to the end of the Sorrentine peninsula and Cápri on the far left. Look out for handwritten notes by the custodian lamenting thefts from the church. For the rest, Prócida’s appeal lies in its opportunities to swim and eat in relative peace. There are beaches in Marina Grande itself, on the far side of the jetty, and, in the opposite direction, beyond the ﬁshing harbour, though both are fairly grubby. Similarly, Spiaggia Chiaia, just beyond the ﬁshing harbour of nearby Coricella, is a reasonable bathing beach but isn’t very large and can get crowded. You can walk there, or the Chiaiolella bus stops nearby. On the whole if you want to swim you’re better off making the ﬁfteen-minute bus journey from Marina Grande to CHIAIOLELLA, where there’s a handful of bars and restaurants around a pleasant, almost circular bay and a long stretch of sandy beach that is the island’s best. By taking the road up from behind the beach you can cross the (officially closed) bridge onto the islet of Vivara, a nature reserve, very peaceful and overgrown. It’s a refreshingly bucolic affair after the rest of the island, where the settlement is pretty much continuous, the narrow roads and constant traffic making walking uncomfortable.

Practicalities The tourist office is at the port on Via Marina (daily 9.30am–1pm & 3–6pm; T 081.810.1968, W www.infoischiaprocida.it). For getting around, buses #L1 and #L2 connect Marina Grande with Chiaiolella roughly every twenty minutes and coincide with all ferry and hydrofoil arrivals – tickets are sold on board. There’s not much choice if you want to stay on the island: there is only a handful of hotels, together with a couple of pensioni. Note that at all places you must book in advance. Perhaps the nicest option, if your budget stretches to it, is La Casa Sul Mare at Via Salita Castello 13 (T 081.896.8799, W www .lacasasulmare.it; 4 –5 ), in Terra Murata on the way to San Michele – the rooms are simple, fresh and elegant and all have a seaview terrace. Alternatively, there’s the Crescenzo, at Via Marina Chiaiolella 33 (T 081.896.7255, W www .hotelcrescenzo.it; 3 –4 ), a comfy three-star with a good restaurant, and La Tonnara, Via Marina Chiaiolella 51 T 081.810.1052, W www.latonnarahotel .it; 4 –5 ), which enjoys an enviable position right on the marina, just metres away from the bridge crossing to the Vivara nature reserve, and whose fourteen luxury guestrooms all have panoramic sea views. For camping, the best bet is Vivara at Via IV Novembre 2 (T 081.896.9242; mid-June–mid-Sept), 30m from the sea, with caravans for rent and a bar; to get there, take the Marina Grande– Chiaiolella bus #L1 and get off at Piazza Olmo. As for eating, in Marina Grande, restaurants line the waterfront Via Roma: La Medusa, opposite the ferry terminal at no. 112 (T 081.896.7481; closed Tues), is very good, though not cheap, with great seafood house specialities of pepata di cozze and spaghetti with sea urchins. In Chiaiolella, Il Galeone (T 081.896.9622), right by the bus stop between the bay and the beach, serves up excellent pizzas and good fresh ﬁsh and seafood.

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Inland Campania CAMPANI A

As most people head to the coast, few visitors reach inland Campania. Indeed the territory immediately north of Naples, mostly a sprawl of unenticing suburbs is irredeemably grim. Almost entirely dominated by the Camorra it’s offputtingly sometimes known as the “Triangle of Death”. It’s not an area to linger, and you’d do well to pass right through and not stop until you reach Caserta just beyond, where the vast royal palace and its gardens is an obvious draw. Further inland, Benevento has a historic centre well worth exploring.

| Inland Campania • Caserta • Benevento

Caserta A short train or bus ride direct from Naples, CASERTA, incongruously surrounded by a sprawl of industrial complexes and warehouses that stretches all the way back to Naples, is known as the “Versailles of Naples” for its vast eighteenth-century Palazzo Reale, the only attraction in this otherwise completely nondescript modern town. Begun in 1752 for the Bourbon king Charles III to plans drawn up by Vanvitelli, and completed a little over twenty years later, it’s an awesomely large complex, built around four courtyards, with a facade 245m long. However, it’s a dull structure that generally substitutes size for inspiration. Only the majestic central staircases up to the royal apartments (daily except Tues 8.30am–7pm; €7, €9 for apartments and gardens combined) hit exactly the right note. The apartments themselves are a grand parade of heavily painted and stuccoed rooms, sparsely furnished in French Empire style, with great, overbearing classical statues and smug portraits of the Bourbon dynasty – look out for the one of the podgy Francis I with his brat-like children. Behind the palace, the gardens (daily except Tues: Jan, Feb, Nov & Dec 8.30am– 2.30pm; March 8.30am–4pm; April 8.30am–5pm; May & Sept 8.30am–5.30pm; June, July & Aug 8.30am–6pm; Oct 8.30am–4.30pm; €3) are on no less huge a scale, stretching out behind along one central three-kilometre-long axis and punctured by myth-inspired fountains. The main promenade is longer than it looks from the palace (it’s a good 30min walk or a short bicycle ride), and regular buses make the round trip, dropping you off at selected intervals along the way and turning round by the main cascade at the top, completed in 1779, which depicts Diana turning Actaeon into a stag. Walk to the top, look back at the palace, hop on a bus … and depart.

Benevento

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Appealing BENEVENTO, reachable in about an hour and thirty minutes from Naples by bus or train (the private FBN line is quickest), was another important Roman settlement, a key point on the Via Appia between Rome and Bríndisi and as such a thriving trading town. Founded in 278 BC, it was at the time the farthest point from Rome to be colonized, and even now it has a remote air about it, circled by hills and with a centre that was (pointlessly) bombed to smithereens in the last war and even now seems only half rebuilt. Its climate also ranks among southern Italy’s most extreme.

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| The Amalfi Coast

Buses from Naples drop you in a large parking lot, where you’ll also ﬁnd the tourist office at Via Nicolò Sala 31 (daily 9am–1pm & 3.30–7.30pm; T 0824.319.920, W www.eptbenevento.it). Five minutes’ walk from here, the main square Piazza IV Novembre gives onto the pedestrianized main street, Corso Garibaldi. Off to the right, the excellent Museo del Sannio (Tues–Sun 9am–1pm; €4), in the cloister behind the eighth-century church of Santa Soﬁa, holds a good selection of Roman ﬁnds from the local area, including a number of artefacts from a temple of Isis – various sphinxes, bulls and a headless statue of Isis herself. There are also terracotta votive ﬁgurines from the ﬁfth century BC, and the cloister itself has capitals carved with energetic scenes of animals, humans and strange beasts, hunting, riding and attacking. Further along Corso Garibaldi, off to the right, the Arch of Trajan is the major remnant of the Roman era, a marvellously preserved triumphal arch boasting much more distinct images than Rome’s arches, and you can get close enough to study its friezes. Built to guard the entrance to Benevento from the Appian Way, it’s actually as heavy-handed a piece of self-acclaim as there ever was, showing the Emperor Trajan in various scenes of triumph, power and generosity. Farther down, the city’s Duomo is an almost total reconstruction of its thirteenthcentury Romanesque original; what’s left of its famous bronze doors, believed to be Byzantine, is now stashed inside. There are more bits and pieces from Roman times scattered around the rather battered but picturesque old quarter of town, the Triggio – reached by following Via Carlo Torre off to the left of the main road beyond the cathedral. The Bue Apis, at the far end of Corso Dante, is another relic from the temple of Isis, a ﬁrstcentury-BC sculpture of a bull. And in the heart of the old quarter there are the substantial remains of a Teatro Romano (daily 9am–1hr before sunset; €2), built during the reign of Hadrian. In Hadrian’s time it seated 20,000 people; it seats rather fewer today, but it’s still an atmospheric sight – looking out over the green rolling countryside of the province beyond and, like most of Benevento, relatively unvisited by tourists.

The Amalﬁ Coast Occupying the southern side of Sorrento’s peninsula, the Amalﬁ Coast (Costiera Amalﬁtana) lays claim to being Europe’s most beautiful stretch of coast, its corniche road winding around the towering cliffs that slip almost sheer into the sea. By car or bus it’s an incredible ride (though it can get mighty congested in summer), with some of the most spectacular stretches between Salerno and Amalﬁ. If you’re staying in Sorrento especially it shouldn’t be missed on any account; in any case the towns along here hold the beaches that Sorrento lacks. The coast as a whole has become rather developed, and these days it’s in fact one of Italy’s ritzier bits of shoreline, villas atop its precarious slopes fetching a bomb in both cash and kudos. While it’s home to some stunning hotels, budget travellers should be aware that you certainly get what you pay for here. Coming from Sorrento, buses normally join the coast road a little way west of Positano. If the coast road is closed, however, which it is from time to time

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due to landslides and forest ﬁres, the bus from Sorrento will take the alternative route, via Castellammare and Agerola, right over the backbone of the Sorrentine peninsula, which is itself a journey worth making – the bus zigzagging down the other side in a crazy helter-skelter of hairpin bends to join the road a few kilometres west of Amalﬁ.

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Positano

| Positano

There’s not much to POSITANO, only a couple of decent beaches and a great many boutiques; the town has long specialized in clothes made from linen, georgette and cotton, as well as handmade shoes and sandals. But its location, heaped up in a pyramid high above the water, has inspired a thousand postcards and helped to make it a moneyed resort that runs a close second to Cápri in the celebrity stakes. Since John Steinbeck wrote up the place in glowing terms back in 1953, the town has enjoyed a fame quite out of proportion to its size. Franco Zefferelli is just one of many famous names who have villas nearby, and the people who come here to lie on the beach consider themselves a cut above your average sun-worshipper.

Arrival and information Buses stop at two main points on the main road through town, Viale G. Marconi. The most central stop is on the Amalﬁ side of town, from where it’s a ten-minute walk or short bus ride to the little square at the bottom end of Via Cristoforo Colombo, two minutes’ walk from the seafront; the other stop is on the other side of the centre by the Bar Internazionale, from where Viale Pasitea winds down to the Fornillo part of town. Ferries and hydrofoils from Cápri, Naples, Amalﬁ and Salerno pull in at the jetty just to the right of the main beach where there are also plenty of ticket booths. Arriving by car you’ll shell out a lot on garage space – up to €4 an hour – as parking is very limited. There’s a busy tourist office just back from the beach by the church steps at Via del Saracino 4 ( June–Oct Mon–Sat 8.30am–8pm; Nov–May Mon–Fri 8.30am–3pm; T 089.875.067, W www.azienda turismopositano.it).

Accommodation

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Hostel Brikette Via G. Marconi 358 T 089.875.857, Wwww.brikette.com. A couple of minutes’ walk from the Bar Internazionale on the main coastal road, this is by far the cheapest accommodation in Positano. It’s friendly and clean, with stunning Mediterranean views, bar and internet access, although the dorms can be a bit spartan and airless – you”ll pay €22 for a bed in a twenty-bed dorm, €25 in an eight-bed dorm; private rooms are available too: 2 . Open late March–Nov. Il San Pietro Via Laurito 2 T 089.875.455, W www.ilsanpietro.it. If money is truly no object, head a bit south of town on the corniche road. This is the area’s most luxurious hotel, almost invisibly built into the rocky cliff-face and furnished with plush, individually designed rooms

and suites, fresh ﬂowers, private beach and tennis court, and its own kitchen garden. Not to mention the breathtaking views. 9 Maria Luisa Via Fornillo 42 T089.875.023, Wwww.pensionemarialuisa.com. Perched high above Fornillo beach, and with great views, this is very friendly, and great value, though of course it’s quite a climb down to the beach and back. Closed Jan & Dec. 2 Palazzo Murat Via dei Mulini 23 T 089.875.177, W www.palazzomurat.it. Perhaps the nicest place to stay if you want to be right in the heart of things, just 2min from the main beach, and with thirty good-sized and well-equipped rooms – though most of them are not in the old palazzo itself but in the newer extension. 7

Pupetto Via Fornillo 37 T 089.875.087, W www.hotelpupetto.it. Right on Fornillo beach and with access for guests, this bright spot offers a huge terrace and pastel rooms with sea views. Full-range restaurant, from wood-ﬁred pizza to catch of the day. 5 Villa Verde Viale Pasitea 338 T089.875.506, Wwww.pensionevillaverde.it.

Just below the main road through town, a short walk from the Bar Internazionale bus stop. This place is friendly, very relaxed, and its fourteen good-sized rooms all have a/c and TV. And their balconies overlook central Positano from a wonderfully peaceful vantage point. Excellent value. 3

Eating and drinking Bruno Via C. Colombo 157 T 089.875.392. Although it’s only a ﬁve-minute walk from the old part of town, this welcoming restaurant is a little bit distanced from the more touristy places near the beach, and much the better for it, with good, well-priced food, and wonderful views over the town and sea from its roadside terrace. La Cambusa Piazza Vespucci 4 T089.875.432. One of the fanciest options near the seafront just back from the Spiaggia Grande on the left. It’s

| Praiano and around

Positano is, of course, expensive, but its beaches are nice enough and don’t get too crowded. The main beach, the Spiaggia Grande right in front of the village, is reasonable, although you’ll be sunbathing among the ﬁshing boats unless you want to pay over the odds for the pleasanter bit on the far left. There’s also another, larger stretch of beach, Spiaggia del Fornillo, around the headland to the west, accessible in ﬁve minutes by a pretty path that winds around from above the hydrofoil jetty – although its main section is also a pay area. Nonetheless the bar-terrace of the Pupetto hotel (see above), which runs along much of its length, is a cheaper place to eat and drink than anywhere in Positano proper.

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The Town

unashamedly a tourist hangout but its ﬁsh and seafood options are pretty good, and it’s a ﬁne place to watch the self-regarding Positano world go by. Closed Tues. Lo Guarracino Via Positanesi d’America 12 T089.875.794. Great food, relatively reasonably priced, and wonderful views from a bright, ﬂower-fringed terrace overlooking the sea and Fornillo beach. A ﬁve-minute walk from the centre of Positano.

Praiano and around Around 6km east of Positano, PRAIANO is much smaller and very much quieter than its more renowned neighbour, and as such you might be tempted to stay here instead. It consists of two tiny centres: Véttica Maggiore, which is Praiano proper, scattered along the main road from Positano high above the sea; and Marina di Praiano squeezed into a cleft in the rock down at shore level, a couple of kilometres further along towards Amalﬁ. There’s not much to either bit of the village, but it does make a more peaceful and quite frankly more authentic place to stay than Positano. There’s nothing whatsoever to see, but there are a few decent places to swim. The closest are the swimming spots off rocks down immediately below the village, most notably Spiaggia Gavitella, which you can reach from the main road by taking the path from the San Gennaro restaurant or from the Smeraldo hotel; there’s also the small patch of shingly beach at Marina di Praia, surrounded by a couple of restaurants and places offering rooms. And there are some decent, properly sandy spots beyond Marina di Praia on the way to Amalﬁ.

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Accommodation

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Casa Angelina Via Capriglione 147 T 089.813.1333, Wwww.casangelina.com. Newish boutique hotel that is the cool person’s choice in Praiano, with a lobby full of contemporary art and a selection of rooms decorated with stark, modern white minimalism. 8 Costa Diva Via Roma 12 T 089.813.076, W www.locandacostadiva.it. Up above Marina di Praia, this hotel spills down a lovely, leafy series of terraces from the road; all rooms have sea views and balconies. 4

Il Pino Via Capriglione 13 T 089.874.389, Wwww.hotelilpino.it. This hotel’s neat, modern and well-equipped rooms – all with balcony and sea view – are bang on the main road in the centre of Praiano. 4 Onda Verde Via Terramare 3 T089.874.143, Wwww.ondaverde.it. Extremely well placed, perched on the cliff edge at Marina di Praiano, this lovely hotel has a great location, very nice rooms and even does cooking classes. 6

| Amalfi

Eating and drinking La Brace opposite the Tramonto d’Oro hotel T 089.874.226. Excellent pizzas straight from the wood-ﬁred oven and great, very fresh ﬁsh which you can eat on the covered terrace. Closed Tues Oct–March.

Trattoria San Gennaro next to the church T089.874.293. As central as you get in Praiano, and serving huge portions of antipasto di mare and primi like scialatielli con zucchine e gamberetti (home-made pasta with courgettes and prawns) for €8. Closed Thurs.

The Grotta dello Smeraldo About 4km out of Praiano, the Grotta dello Smeraldo (daily: March–Oct 9am–5pm; Nov–Feb 10am–4pm; €5) is one of the most highly touted local natural features around here, a ﬂooded cavern in which the sunlight turns the water a vivid shade of green. You can reach it by taxi-boat from either Praiano or Amalﬁ (tickets cost about €10 return, plus the entrance fee), but more cheaply there’s a bus stop nearby and car parking, too, if you have your own vehicle. Arriving by boat leaves you at grotto level, whereas by road you have to take the lift down to the grotto, which you then tour by boat. It’s not unimpressive, but is basically one huge chamber and it doesn’t take long for the boatman to whisk you around the main features, best of which is the intense colour of the water, and the stalagmites and stalactites that puncture and drip from every surface.

Amalﬁ

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Set in a wide cleft in the cliffs, AMALFI, a mere 4km or so further east, is the largest town and perhaps the highlight of the coast, and a good place to base yourself. It has been an established seaside resort since Edwardian times, when the British upper classes found the town a pleasant spot to spend their winters. Actually Amalﬁ’s credentials go back much further: it was an independent republic during Byzantine times and one of the great naval powers, with a population of some 70,000; Webster’s Duchess of Malﬁ was set here, and the city’s traders established outposts all over the Mediterranean, setting up the Order of the Knights of St John of Jerusalem. Amalﬁ was ﬁnally vanquished by the Normans in 1131, and the town was devastated by an earthquake in 1343, but there is still the odd remnant of Amalﬁ’s past glories around today, and the town has a crumbly attractiveness to its whitewashed courtyards and alleys that makes it fun to wander through.

Arrival and information

Accommodation tiny courtyards off to the left of Amalﬁ’s main street – take a left just past Trattoria da Gemma and then a right and you’re there. All rooms have bathrooms with jacuzzi-style showers and ﬂatscreen TVs, telephone and a/c, and breakfast is included in the price. 3 Santa Caterina Via Maura Comite 9 T089.871.012, Wwww.hotelsantacaterina.it. A kilometre west of town right on the coast road, this elegant villa with period furnishings is probably Amalﬁ’s best hotel, and very much the celebrity choice, but also still family-owned and -run. There’s a seawater pool and small spa and ﬁtness centre, and rocks to swim from, all accessible by a lift which plummets down from the bougainvillea-wreathed terrace. 9

| Amalfi

Centrale Largo Piccolomini 1 T 089.872.608, W www.amalﬁhotelcentrale.it. An excellent location, with good-sized and pleasantly furnished rooms, including TV, telephone, a/c and breakfast, eaten on the hotel’s lovely roof terrace. 4 Lidomare Via Piccolomini 9 T089.871.332, Wwww.lidomare.it. Tucked away off to the left of Piazza del Duomo, this is perhaps the most characterful of Amalﬁ’s central cheapies, a beautiful, family-run ex-ducal palace, nicely old-fashioned and full of antiques. Most of the rooms are lovely and large, and over half of them face the sea. 3 Residenza del Duca Via Mastalo del Duca 3 T 089.873.6365, W www .residencedelduca.it. Tiny pensione tucked away at the top of a building among the alleys and

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Amalﬁ’s most immediate focus is the seafront, a humming, cheerfully vigorous strand given over to street stalls, a car park for the town’s considerable tourist traffic, and an acceptably crowded beach, although once again the best bits are pay areas only. The tourist office, at Corso Roma 19 (Mon–Sat 9am–1pm & 2–6pm, Sun 9am–1pm; T 089.871.107, W www.amalﬁtouristoffice.it), is situated in the courtyard next to the post office in Corso Repubblica Marinara, the road that runs along the waterfront. Ferries and hydrofoils to Salerno, Positano, Cápri and Ischia leave from the landing stages in the harbour, buses from just in front.

The Town The Duomo (daily: summer 9am–9pm; winter 10am–5pm; €3), at the top of a steep ﬂight of steps, utterly dominates the town’s main piazza, its tiered, almost gaudy facade topped by a glazed tiled cupola that’s typical of the area. The bronze doors of the church came from Constantinople and date from 1066. Inside it’s a mixture of Saracen and Romanesque styles, though now heavily restored, and the cloister – the so-called Chiostro del Paradiso – is the most appealing part of the building, oddly Arabic in feel with its whitewashed arches and palms. The adjacent museum, housed in an ancient bare basilica, dates back to the sixth century and has various medieval and episcopal treasures, most intriguingly an eighteenth-century sedan chair from Macau, used by the bishop of Amalﬁ, a thirteenth-century mitre sewn with myriad seed pearls and a lovely fourteenth-century bone-and-ebony inlaid box, made by the renowned Embriarchi studio in Venice. Steps lead down from the museum to the heavily decorated crypt, where the remains of the apostle St Andrew lie under the altar, brought here (minus head) from Constantinople by the Knights of Malta in 1204. If you’re on a tight budget you could either stay in the adjacent village of Atrani – see p.786 – or opt for the cosy youth hostel Beata Solitudo, located at Piazza Avitabile 4 in Agerola, 16km north of Amalﬁ (T081.802.5048, Wwww.beatasolitudo .it; dorm beds €15, double rooms 2 ), which has very nice private rooms with TVs and en-suite facilities as well as a small campsite with a few bungalows (€5 per person plus €3.80–5.50 per tent; 2–5-person bungalows €55–100). Regular buses run between Agerola and Amalﬁ.

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| Amalfi

Turn left at the bottom of the cathedral steps and then left again up some steps just before the Pansa bakery, and a narrow, partly covered passage takes you through to Piazza Municipio, where the small Museo Civico (Mon–Fri 8.30am–1.30pm, Tues–Thurs also 4.30–6.30pm; free), part of the Municipio, has the original paintings of the twelve apostles that you can view in mosaic on the cathedral’s facade and the Tavoliere Amalﬁtana, the book of maritime laws that governed the republic, and the rest of the Mediterranean until 1570. Further along the waterfront, the old Arsenale is a reminder of the military might of the Amalﬁ republic, and its ancient vaulted interior now hosts art exhibitions and suchlike. In the opposite direction from the cathedral you can follow the main street of Via Genova up through the heart of Amalﬁ and out the other side, to where the town peters out and the gorge narrows into the Valle dei Mulini (Valley of Mills), once the centre of Amalﬁ’s high-quality paper industry. The Museo delle Carte (daily 10am–6.30pm; €4; W www.museodellacarta.it) is not an essential stop by any means but it is the only dynamic remnant of the industry, housed in a mill that dates back to 1350 and claims to be the oldest in Europe. If you’re feeling energetic you can do a walk that takes you right up into the heart of the valley, past some of the remains of the mills which sit by the river in charming dereliction.

Eating and drinking Il Mulino Via della Cartiere 36 T089.872.223. At the top of the main street, 10min walk from the Duomo, this is a cheery family-run place with an outside terrace that does good home-made seafood pasta for around €12, and decent pizzas too. Closed Mon. La Caravella Via Mateo Camera 12 T089.871.029. One of the town’s posher options for a night out, or when you’re tired of the same old offerings everywhere else. They serve great, individual takes on traditional dishes, all put together with fresh local ingredients, but it’s a cut above the rest in price as well as tone, with most primi for around €20 and up, and ﬁsh and meat mains for €28–40. Open daily noon–2.30pm & 7.15–10.30pm; closed Tues. Maccus Largo S. Maria Maggiore 13 T 089.873.6385. Good, reasonably priced food at a restaurant that makes the most of this atmospheric little square. Totani e patate €11, and pasta with zucchini €7. Daily noon–3pm & 7–10.30pm.

San Guiseppe Via Ruggiero 4, no phone. Left off the main street by Trattoria da Gemma and then right, this very simple restaurant puts a few tables out on a tiny courtyard and serves excellent pizzas and pretty much everything else at low prices – great value. Taverna degli Apostoli Supportivo Sant’ Andrea 6 T 089.872.991. Because of its location bang next to the cathedral steps, most people assume this is just another tourist joint. But its relatively small menu chalked on the blackboard outside is a good indication that it’s not. Good food and a warm welcome. Trattoria da Gemma Via Frá Gerardo Sasso 11 T089.871.345. A stalwart of the Amalﬁ restaurant scene, and still one of the best and most atmospheric places to eat in town, with a small, carefully considered menu, strong on ﬁsh and seafood, with pasta and primi for €16–18, mains at around €20–25, and a lovely terrace overlooking the main street. Closed Wed.

Atrani

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A short walk around the headland (take the path off to the right just before the tunnel through the Zaccaria restaurant), ATRANI is an extension of Amalﬁ really, and was indeed another part of the maritime republic, with a similarly styled church sporting another set of bronze doors from Constantinople, manufactured in 1086. It’s a quiet place, which beneﬁts from all the attention bestowed on its neighbour, with a pretty, almost entirely enclosed little square, Piazza Umberto, giving onto a usually gloriously peaceful (and free) patch of sandy beach – hard to believe the bustle of Amalﬁ is just around the corner.

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| Ravello

Another good reason for coming here is that it has a couple of good places to stay, including the long-standing hostel, A’Scalinatella, Piazza Umberto 1 (T 089.871.492, W www.hostelscalinatella.com), a friendly, family-run establishment that offers dorm beds from €25 per person and private rooms with bath for €35–60 per person in various buildings around town. And if you have a larger budget, the Palazzo Ferraioli, just off the main square at Via Campo 16 (T 089.872.652, W www.palazzoferraioli.it; 5 ), is a decent, boutique-style hotel. The two principal bars on Atrani’s main square, Birecto and Risacca, host quite a scene, vying for the custom of young travellers from the Scalinatella hostel. Luigi’s Birecto has the edge, with reasonably priced drinks, decent pizzas and other food, and free internet access on the tabletop laptops, though Risacca offers much the same. For more formal eating, try A’Paranza, on the road that leads inland from the main square at Traversa Dragone 2 (T 089.811.840; closed Tues), a friendly seafood trattoria with fabulous home-made pasta and a speciality of zuppa di pesce. Le Arcate (T 089.871.367; closed Mon), right by the beach, hogs the best location in Atrani (or indeed Amalﬁ), and serves pizza and a good range of seafood pasta dishes.

Ravello The best views of the coast can be had inland, high above Amalﬁ in RAVELLO: another renowned spot “closer to the sky than the seashore”, wrote André Gide – with some justiﬁcation. Ravello was also an independent republic for a while, and for a time an outpost of the Amalﬁ city-state. Now it’s not much more than a large village, but its unrivalled location, spread across the top of one of the coast’s mountains, makes it more than worth the thirty-minute bus ride through the steeply cultivated terraces up from Amalﬁ – although, like most of this coast, the charms of Ravello haven’t been recently discovered. Wagner set part of Parsifal, one of his last operas, in the place; D.H. Lawrence wrote some of Lady Chatterley’s Lover here; John Huston ﬁlmed his languid movie Beat the Devil in town; and more recently the writer and political polemicist Gore Vidal lived here for many years.

Arrival and information Buses run up to Ravello from the seafront roundabout in Amalﬁ roughly every half-hour. The tourist office is two minutes from the main square, off Via Roma (Mon–Sat 9.30am–1pm & 2–6pm; T 089.857.096, W www.ravello.it) and has information on rooms. There’s a useful car park that often has space just below the main square.

Accommodation Garden Via Boccaccio 4 T 089.857.226, Wwww .gardenravello.com. Just the other side of the tunnel from central Ravello this small family-owned and -run hotel and restaurant occupies a prime spot looking up the coast, and makes the most of it with a large airy lobby and ten rooms that all have sea views. The rooms aren’t huge, but they have small terraces and are well kept and well equipped – and the views, of course, are great. 4

Toro Via Roma 16 T089.857.211, Wwww .hoteltoro.it. In about as central a location as you can get in Ravello, just off the main piazza, the ten good-sized rooms here vary quite a bit in size but are tastefully furnished and, in any case, feel cool and peaceful compared to the touristy hubbub outside. Rooms include breakfast, and have TV and telephone but no a/c. 3

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Villa Amore Via dei Fusco 5 T 089.857.135, Wwww.villaamore.it. Down a short path off the main route between the centre of Ravello and the Villa Cimbrone, the rooms here are nothing special but some of them enjoy the best views in town – quite something by Ravello standards. There’s a small and peaceful garden, and a restaurant that uses organic ingredients from the hotel’s garden back on the main drag. The drawback is that you have to carry your luggage from the nearest parking 10min walk away back

on the main piazza – or pay €5 per piece for the hotel to do it for you. 3 Villa Maria Via Santa Chiara 2 T 089.857.255, Wwww.villamaria.it. A lovely old-fashioned hotel situated ﬁve minutes from the centre of Ravello on the way to Villa Cimbrone. It’s not especially cheap, but the rooms have all facilities, including a/c and satellite TV, and rates include free parking and a pool at the nearby co-owned Giordano as well as the all-important luggage transportation. 6

| Ravello

The Town Everything in Ravello revolves around the main Piazza del Duomo, where the Duomo, a bright eleventh-century church, renovated in 1786, is dedicated to St Pantaleone, a fourth-century saint whose blood – kept in a chapel on the left-hand side – is supposed to liquefy (like Naples’ San Gennaro and others) once a year on July 27. It’s a richly decorated church, with a pair of twelfthcentury bronze doors, cast with 54 scenes of the Passion; inside, there are two monumental thirteenth-century ambones (pulpits), both wonderfully adorned with intricate and glittering mosaics. The more elaborate one to the right of the altar, dated 1272, sports dragons and birds on spiral columns supported by six roaring lions, while the one on the left illustrates the story of Jonah and the whale. Downstairs in the crypt the museo (daily 9am–7pm; €2) holds the superb bust of Sigilgaita Rufolo and the silver reliquary of St Barbara, alongside a collection of highly decorative, ﬂuid mosaic and marble reliefs from the same era. The Rufolos ﬁgure again on the other side of the square, where various remains of their Villa Rufolo (daily 9am–8pm; €5) lie scattered among rich gardens overlooking the precipitous coastline; this is the spectacular main venue for the prestigious open-air chamber concerts held from March to October. The programme is widely advertised and tickets cost €20 (details from the Ravello Concert Society T 089.858.149, W www.ravelloarts.org). If the crowds (best avoided by coming early in the morning) put you off, turn left by the entrance and walk up the steps over the tunnel for the best (free) view over the shore, from where it’s a pleasant stroll through the back end of Ravello to the main square. Alternatively, walk in the opposite direction for ten minutes to the Villa Cimbrone (daily 9am to sunset; €6), whose formal gardens spread across the furthest tip of Ravello’s ridge. Most of the villa itself is now a luxury hotel but you can peep into the ﬂower-hung cloister and crypt as you go in, and the gardens are dotted with statues and little temples and lead down to what must be the most gorgeous spot in Ravello – a belvedere that looks over Atrani below and the sea beyond.

Eating and drinking

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Cumpa Cosimo Via Roma 48 T089.857.988. Great local food, home-made pasta and wine at moderate prices in the heart of Ravello – though there are no views or outside seating. Da Salvatore Via della Repubblica 2 T089.857.227. In business for just over ﬁfty years, Salvatore has fantastic views from both the interior

restaurant and outside terrace, and a refreshingly different menu from many of the other places in town. It’s not Ravello’s cheapest choice, but not horrendous either; plus, if you want to spend less money and still enjoy the view you can eat in their simpler downstairs pizzeria which does starters and pizzas only in the evening.

Salerno

| Salerno

Arrival, information and accommodation

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Capital of Campania’s southernmost province, the lively port of SALERNO is much less chaotic than Naples and is well off most travellers’ itineraries, giving it a pleasant, relaxed air. It has a good supply of cheap accommodation, which makes it a reasonable base for some of the closer resorts of the Amalﬁ Coast and for the ancient site of Paestum to the south. During medieval times the town’s medical school was the most eminent in Europe; more recently, it was the site of the Allied landing of September 9, 1943 – a landing that reduced much of the centre to rubble. The subsequent rebuilding has restored neither charm nor efficiency to the town centre, which is an odd mixture of wide, rather characterless boulevards and a small medieval core full of intriguingly dark corners and alleys. It is, however, a lively, sociable place, with a busy seafront boulevard and plenty of nightlife and shops.

Salerno’s train station lies at the southern end of the town centre on Piazza Vittorio Veneto. City and local buses pull up here; those from Paestum and further south arrive and leave from Piazza della Concordia, down by the waterside nearby; buses from Naples use the SITA bus station at Corso Garibaldi 119. Ferries and hydrofoils from Amalﬁ, Cápri and Positano arrive in the harbour. For information, there are two tourist offices: one right in front of the station on the corner of Piazza Vittorio Veneto and Corso Garibaldi (Mon–Sat 9am–2pm & 3–8pm, Sun 9am–1pm & 4–7.30pm; T 089.230.411); and another, slightly more helpful one on the seafront at Lungomare Trieste 7/9 (Mon–Fri 9am–2pm & 3–8pm, Sat & Sun 9am–noon; T 089.224.744). The town isn’t chock-full of hotels: the comfortable Plaza, Piazza Vittorio Veneto 42 (T 089.224.477, W www.plazasalerno.it; 2 ), is a decent choice and handy for transport and the town centre; while, a few yards away, the friendly if fairly basic Albergo Santa Rosa on the second ﬂoor at Corso V. Emanuele 14 (T &F 089.225.346; 1 ), provides a cheaper alternative. There’s also the Ave Gratia Plena official HI youth hostel, the other side of the centre on Via dei Canali (T 089.234.776, W www.ostellodisalerno.it), a clean and welcoming place with both dorm beds (€15) and doubles (1 ) in a former church and cloister complex – follow Via Mercanti to its end, continue under the arch onto Via Dogana and Via dei Canali is on the right.

The Town There isn’t a great deal to see in Salerno, but it’s pleasant to wander through the vibrant streets of the centre, especially the ramshackle old medieval quarter, which starts at the far end of the pedestrianized main shopping drag of Corso V. Emanuele. The old quarter’s main street is Via Mercanti, and it’s been spruced up quite a lot over recent years. Part of the makeover is the Pinacoteca Provinciale di Salerno, housed in the seventeenth-century Palazzo Pinto at Via Mercanti 63 (Tues–Sun 9am–7.45pm; free) – half a dozen rooms, basically, displaying one or two nice ﬁfteenth-century altarpieces and a couple of works by Carlo Rosa and other Neapolitan Baroque artists. Off to the right of Via dei Mercanti, up Via del Duomo, the Duomo (Mon–Sat 9.30am–12.30pm & 4–7pm, Sun 9.30am–12.30pm) is Salerno’s highlight, an enormous church built in 1076 by Robert Guiscard and dedicated to St Matthew. Entrance is through a cool and shady courtyard, built with columns plundered from Paestum, and centring on a gently gurgling fountain set in an equally ancient bowl. In the heavily restored

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| Paestum

interior, the two elegant mosaic pulpits are the highlight, the one on the left dating from 1173, the other, with its matching paschal candlesticks, a century later. Immediately behind there’s more sumptuous mosaic-work in the screens of the choir, as well as the quietly expressive ﬁfteenth-century tomb of Margaret of Anjou, wife of Charles III of Durazzo, in the left aisle. To the left of the tomb, steps lead down to the polychrome marble crypt, which holds the body of St Matthew himself, brought here in the tenth century. From the cathedral, turn right at the bottom of the steps for the Museo Diocesano (daily 9am–12.30pm & 3–6.30pm; free), where there’s only one thing to see – a large eleventh-century altar-front, embellished with ivory panels, 69 in all, depicting Biblical scenes, which claims to be the largest work of its kind in the world. Failing that, turn left out of the church, left at the bottom of the steps, left again and then ﬁrst right, and 100m or so further on is the Museo Provinciale (Tues–Sun 9am–7.45pm; free), which occupies two ﬂoors of a restored Romanesque palace. It’s full of local archeological ﬁnds, and has an array of terracotta heads and votive ﬁgurines, lots of jewellery and lamps and household objects, from Etruscan as well as Roman times, but its most alluring piece is a sensual Head of Apollo upstairs, a Roman bronze ﬁshed from the Gulf of Salerno in the 1930s. After the cathedral, Salerno’s most interesting attraction is the Giardini della Minerva on Via Ferrante Sanseverino (Tues–Sun: summer 10am–1pm & 5–8pm; winter 10am–1.30pm, Mon 3–6pm; €2), a medicinal garden laid out according to medieval medical principles and traversed by channels of tinkling water. It’s a gloriously fragrant place, its shady terraces wonderfully soothing in summer, and there’s even a café serving herbal tea to ensure you leave healthier than you arrived.

Eating and drinking Salerno is a sociable place, and while it’s not a tourist town there are plenty of good places to eat and drink. The Hostaria Il Brigante, just above the cathedral at Via Fratelli Linguiti 4 (T 089.226.592), is a great, old-fashioned osteria near the Duomo with mains at around €10 – try its zuppa dell’aglio and calamarata pasta dishes. The Antica Pizzeria Vicolo delle Neve, a left turn off Via Mercanti about 50m past the Duomo, is a deliciously downbeat place serving pizzas and local specialities, with a particularly good calzone (T 089.225.705; closed Wed & lunchtimes); while a block further on Trattoria Peppe ’A Seccia, Via Antica Corte 5 (T 089.220.518; closed Mon), has tables outside on its small square and serves decent local food at reasonable prices – good ﬁsh and seafood, including zuppa di cozze.

Paestum

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About an hour’s bus ride south of Salerno, the ancient site of Paestum (daily 8.45am–1hr before sunset; €4, €6.50 for site plus museum) spreads across a large area at the bottom end of the Piana del Sele – a wide, ﬂat plain grazed by the buffalo that produce a good quantity of southern Italy’s mozzarella cheese. Paestum, or Poseidonia as it was known, was founded by Greeks from Sybaris in the sixth century BC, and later, in 273 BC, colonized by the Romans, who Latinized the name. But by the ninth century a combination of malaria and Saracen raids had decimated the population and left the buildings deserted and gradually overtaken by thick forest – the site wasn’t rediscovered until the eighteenth century during the building of a road through here. It’s a desolate, open place even now (“inexpressibly grand”, Shelley called it), mostly unrecognizable ruin but with three golden-stoned temples that are among the best-preserved Doric temples in Europe. Of these, the Temple of

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| The Cilento coast

Neptune, dating from about 450 BC, is the most complete, with only its roof and parts of the inner walls missing. The Basilica of Hera, built a century or so earlier, retains its double rows of columns, while the Temple of Ceres at the northern end of the site was used as a Christian church for a time. In between, the forum is little more than an open space, and the buildings around are mere foundations. The splendid museum (daily 9am–6.45pm; closed ﬁrst and third Mon every month; €4, €6.50 including site), across the road, holds Greek and Roman ﬁnds from the site and around. Straight ahead of you as you enter are some stunning sixth-century bronze vases (hydriae), decorated with rams, lions and sphinxes; behind them more bronze – gleaming helmets, breastplates and greaves. Make a point of seeing the rare Greek tomb paintings, the best of which are from the Tomb of the Diver, graceful and expressively naturalistic pieces of work, including a diver in mid-plunge, said to represent the passage from life to death, and male lovers banqueting. Attractive fourth-century terracotta plates depict all sorts of comestibles – fruit, sweets, fruit and cheese, and a set of weathered archaic-period Greek metopes from another temple at the mouth of the Sele River, a few kilometres north, shows scenes of ﬁghting and hunting. On the ﬁrst ﬂoor, which is devoted to Roman ﬁnds, highlights are a statue of an abstractedlooking Pan with his pipes, a third-century relief showing a baby in pointed hat and amulets, and a sarcophagus cover of a tenderly embracing couple.

Practicalities It’s perfectly feasible to see Paestum on a day-trip from either Salerno or Agrópoli. CSTP bus #34 runs between Salerno train station and Agrópoli, stopping off at Paestum on the way; it takes 55 minutes from Salerno, and ﬁfteen minutes from Agrópoli, to reach Paestum. You can also stay in one of the many hotels or campsites that are strewn along the sandy shore beyond the site. The tourist office tucked away on a side street to the left of the museum at Via Magna Grecia 887 (Mon–Sat 9am–1pm & 3–7pm, closes 5pm in winter, Sun 9am–1pm; T 0828.811.016, W www.infopaestum.it) has details. For hotels just walk down to the beach (about 15min) and take your pick: close to the site to the left of where the main road hits the beach is Calypso, Via Mantegna 63 (T 0828.811.031, W www.calypsohotel.com; 3 ). The cheerful and very good value Baia del Sole, Via Torre di Mare 48 (T 0828.811.119, W www .baiadelsolepaestum.it; 2 ), has a nice garden, while if you prefer to be a little more secluded try Villa Rita at Via Nettuno 9 (T 0828.811.081, W www.hotelvillarita .it; 3 ), which is pleasantly situated in relaxing gardens with a pool just south of the archeological site – though both of these insist on half-board in August. There are some excellent restaurants in the area, with the locally produced buffalo mozzarella featuring heavily on menus. Try the reliable Nettuno on Via Principe di Piemonte (T 0828.811.028) in an old building right by the temples, where the house speciality is crêpes with buffalo mozzarella, or the more intimate and upmarket Enoteca Tavernelle, Via Tavernelle 14 (T 0828.722.440), about 1km out on the Salerno road.

The Cilento coast Immediately south of Paestum, the coastline bulges out into a broad mountainous hump of territory known as the Cilento – one of the remotest parts of Campania. AGRÓPOLI, the ﬁrst town you reach, ﬁfteen minutes out from Paestum and on the main Salerno–Reggio railway line, is a good base for the ruins (buses every

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hour), and its blend of the peaceful old quarter, heaped on a headland, and the new modern centre down below makes for a nice place to spend a few days, with a vivacious main-street passeggiata. The beaches aren’t great, but you can swim from the ﬂat rocks in the harbour and the water’s perfectly clean. If you want to stay, the Serenella, Lungomare San Marco 150 (T 0974.823.333, W www.hotelserenella .it; 3 ), has clean if rather characterless rooms and a private beach, and there’s also a HI youth hostel, La Lanterna, Via Lanterna 8 (T 0974.838.364, W www .cilento.it/lanterna; closed Nov to mid-March), about 1km from the station and conveniently close to the bus stop for Paestum; it has dorm beds for €15–16 per person as well as offering private rooms (1 ).

Santa Maria di Castellabate

| The Cilento coast

The next town, SANTA MARIA DI CASTELLABATE, is a pleasant and lively seaside town, with an animated waterfront which forms the start of a lovely crescent of sand that runs right round to the next town along, the less alluring San Marco. There’s also the old town of Santa Maria which is also worth getting up to if you can, high on a hill a couple of kilometres inland, and with an intriguing little enclosed square, almost Moorish with its arches and passageways and tremendous views. In seaside Santa Maria the ﬁrst stretches of beach are given over to beach bars and an excellent waterside hotel (see below), but there are other, free stretches beyond (and there’s nothing wrong with the town patch). The town’s best hotel is the lovely Palazzo Belmonte, set in its own terraced gardens (T 0974.960.211, W www.palazzobelmonte.com; 7 ), with well-equipped rooms either inside the original palazzo or in chalets in the gardens themselves. It’s also got a nice pool – and the food – served in the gardens each evening – is something special. Otherwise there is no shortage of places to eat in Santa Maria. Try the Taverna del Mare, right on the beach at Via Landi 25 (T 0974.961.172), which is busy and reasonably priced.

Acciaroli, Marina d’Ascea and Velia

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Buses run down to ACCIAROLI, about 25km south of Agrópoli, one of the Cilento’s larger resorts and a port for the hydrofoils plying the coast during summer. The railway joins the shoreline again at MARINA D’ASCEA, a fairly indifferent resort but surrounded by hotels and campsites, especially along the lengthy sand beach that stretches north to Marina del Casalvelino. Some 20km further on, MARINA DI VELIA gives access to the site of Velia (daily 9am to 1hr before sunset; €2.50) – comprising the ruins of the Hellenistic town of Elea, founded around 540 BC and an important port and cultural centre, home to its own school of philosophy. Later it became a favourite holiday resort for wealthy Romans, Horace being just one of many who came here on the advice of his doctor. The decline of Velia parallels that of Paestum – malarial swamp rendering much of the area uninhabitable – though the upper reaches were lived in until the ﬁfteenth century. There, however, the comparison ends: the remains of Velia are considerably more decimated than those of Paestum and the town was never as crucial a centre, with nothing like as many temples. At the top of the site the “Porta Rosa”, named after the wife of the archeologist who conducted the ﬁrst investigations, is one of the earliest arches ever found – and the ﬁrst indication to experts that the Greeks knew how to construct such things. Across from here, the Acropolis on the next peak has relics of an amphitheatre and a temple, together with a massive Norman tower – visible for some distance around.

Palinuro

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| Travel details

Cheerful PALINURO, further south, is worth a stop, named after the legendary pilot of the Aeneid, who is supposed to have drowned here. It’s a much livelier place than anywhere else on the Cilento coast, and so can be packed out. But it’s a relatively sprawling place, and a good alternative to Agrópoli and Santa Maria, both as a base for the site of Velia and a beach-bumming spot – the sea here is one of the cleanest spots on the coast, and the sandy beach and harbour are lovely, if busy, with boats and people. From the harbour, you can explore the stunning craggy coast of the Capo Palinuro, studded with a series of caves, either by taking a guided boat tour (€8) or – more fun – by renting a motorboat (€25 for 2hr, plus around €10 for petrol). The best hotel option is Hotel Residence La Torre, Via Porto 3 (T 0974.931.107, W www.latorrepalinuro.it; 3 , half-board only in August), just 10m from the harbour; its rooms are comfortable and well kept and there’s a sociable bar – a great place for a sundowner. In town, an attractive central campsite, the Villagio degli Olivi, Corso Carlo Pisacane 171 (T 0974.938.501), provides shade and has a rudimentary restaurant, with access to a sandy beach where steps from a series of rock pools take you straight into the sea. There’s a good beachfront restaurant, the Taverna del Porto, Via Porto 50 (T 0974.931.278), which does great pizzas and excellent pasta and seafood. Otherwise a number of good, unpretentious eating options line Via Indipendenza, the best of which is friendly L’Ancora at no. 115 (T 0974.931.373); its speciality is zuppa di pesce and the wood-ﬁred oven turns out large and delicious pizzas. Alternatively, blow your last few euros at the Da Carmelo restaurant (T 0974.931.138), 2km south of town at Località Isca, whose ﬁsh and seafood are said to be the best for miles around.

Travel details Naples and the bay Metropolitana/FS Information T800.568.866. City-centre stops include Piazza Garibaldi, Piazza Cavour, Montesanto, Piazza Amedeo, Vanvitelli, Mergellina, Museo, Dante – with stops at Duomo, Municipio and Toledo to come. Trains every 8min. Circumvesuviana (information T 081.772.2444). As its name suggests, this line runs all the way around Vesuvius, but the part most tourists use is the main section between Naples and Sorrento, with many stops around the southern part of the bay, including Ercolano and Pompeii. Trains every 30min. Circumﬂegrea/Ferrovia Cumana (information T 800.001.616). These two lines connect Naples Montesanto to Fuorigrotta, Agnano, Bagnoli, Pozzuoli, Baía, Fusaro, Cumae and Torregaveta. Trains every 20min.

Funiculars information T800.568.866. Funicolare Centrale Piazza Augusteo–Piazza Fuga. Daily 6.30am–12.30am; every 10–15min. Funicolare di Montesanto Montesanto FS–Via Morghen. Daily 7am–10pm; every 10–15min. Funicolare di Chiaia Parco Margherita Via Cimarosa–Parco Margherita. Daily 6.30am–12.30am; every 10–15min. Funicolare di Mergellina Mergellina–Manzoni. Daily 7am–10pm; every 12–15min.

Trains Benevento to: Fóggia (6 daily; 1hr 15min–2hr); Naples (12 daily; 1hr 20min–2hr 20min). Naples to: Agrópoli (8 daily; 1hr 30min); Benevento (12 daily; 1hr 20min–2hr 20min); Caserta (every 15min; 35–45min); Fóggia (6 daily; via Caserta or Benevento 2hr 20min–4hr); Formia (hourly; 1hr–1hr 45min); Rome (every 30min; 1hr 10min–2hr); Salerno (every 30min; 30min–1hr 20min).

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Salerno to: Paestum/Agrópoli (hourly; 35min); Sapri (every 30min; 2hr).

Buses

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Agrópoli to: Acciaroli (6 daily; 1hr); Paestum (hourly; 10min); Salerno (hourly; 1hr 20min); Sapri (1 daily; 3hr 30min). Amalﬁ to: Ravello (15 daily; 30min). Naples to: Amalﬁ (4 daily; 1hr 55min); Bari (3 daily; 3hr); Benevento (6 daily; 1hr 30min); Caserta (every 20min; 45min); Pompeii (every 30min; 35min); Positano (2 daily Mon–Sat at 8.45am and 9.10am; 2hr 10min); Salerno (every 15–30min; 1hr 10min). Naples Capodichino airport to: Sorrento (6 daily; 1hr 30min). Salerno to: Agrópoli (hourly; 1hr 20min); Amalﬁ (hourly; 1hr 10min); Naples (every 15–30min; 1hr 5min); Padula (2 daily; 1hr 50min–2hr); Paestum (hourly; 1hr); Positano (every 1–2hr; 2hr); Sorrento (every 1–2hr; 2hr 45min). Sorrento to: Amalﬁ (18 daily; 1hr 30min); Naples (1 daily at 6.40pm; 1hr 15min); Naples Capodichino airport (6 daily; 1hr); Positano (18 daily; 1hr 5min); Salerno (12 daily; 2hr 45min).

Ferries and hydrofoils For details of ferry and hydrofoil connections to the islands from Naples, the Amalﬁ Coast and Salerno, see box, p.769. Metro del Mare T199.600.700, Wwww.metro delmare.com. The Metro del Mare services connect Pozzuoli, Naples, Sorrento, Positano, Amalﬁ, Minori, Salerno and several points in between. During high season they run down to the main towns of the Cilento too. Fares are cheap, and about the most you’ll pay is for the trip from Naples to Salerno, which takes the best part of 3hr. Naples to: Aeolian Islands (June–Aug daily at 2.30pm & also on Sat at 9am; 7hr); Cágliari (ferry: 1 weekly in high season at 7.15pm; 16hr 15min); Catania (1 weekly in high season; 9hr); Palermo (twice daily; 10hr); Milazzo, via Aeolian Islands (1 weekly in high season at 8pm; 16hr 30min); Sorrento (6 daily; 35min). Salerno to: Amalﬁ (April–Sept 6 daily hydrofoils; 35min); Positano (5 daily hydrofoils; 1hr 10min).

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Puglia

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CHAPTER 14

Highlights

Vieste For sun and sea, head for this resort on the dramatic Gargano promontory, with the option in summer of travelling onwards to the Trémiti Islands. See p.806 & p.809

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Martina Franca This lively town with its Moorish feel makes a good base for exploring the surrounding area’s trulli – Puglia’s traditional conical whitewashed buildings. See p.820

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Trani This miniature medieval port is a jewel, with its eleventh-century cathedral impressively located on the waterfront. See p.810

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Castel del Monte Puglia’s greatest Swabian castle is a testament to thirteenthcentury engineering. See p.816

Ostuni One of the most stunning hilltop towns in southern Italy, with a sun-bleached old quarter and a sandy coastline 7km away. See p.828

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Lecce In the southern tip of Italy, Lecce is an exuberant city of Baroque architecture and opulent churches. See p.830

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Trulli, Alberobello

K PUGL I A

Puglia

| uglia is the long strip of land, 400km from north to south, that makes up the heel of Italy. For centuries it was a strategic province, colonized, invaded and conquered by just about every major power of the day – from the Greeks through to the Spanish. These days clean seas and reliable sunshine are the draw for holidaymakers both Italian and foreign, and acres of campsiteand-bungalow-type tourist villages stud the shoreline, though there are still quiet spots to be found. Low-cost ﬂights to Bari and Bríndisi have opened up the area to British tourists, many of whom have been buying and doing up trulli (ancient store houses; see p.819) and masserie (farm estates) as holiday accommodation. There’s a brisk air of investment in many resorts, from the new top-of-the-range spa hotels in converted masserie to agriturismo places, where you can holiday among olive groves and orchards and go horseriding or mountain biking. B&Bs have been springing up everywhere, often in the historic centres of towns, some simple, some splendid, all of them better value for money than most hotels. There’s plenty of architectural interest in Puglia, as each ruling dynasty left its own distinctive mark on the landscape – the Romans their agricultural schemes and feudal lords their fortiﬁed medieval towns. Perhaps most distinctive are the kasbah-like quarters of many towns and cities, a vestige of the Saracen conquest of the ninth century – the one at Bari is the biggest and most atmospheric. The Normans endowed Puglia with splendidly ornate cathedrals, while the Baroque exuberance of towns like Lecce and Martina Franca are testament to the Spanish legacy. But if there’s one symbol of Puglia that stands out, it’s the imposing castles built by the Swabian Frederick II all over the province – foremost of which are the Castel del Monte (immortalized on the Italian ﬁve-cent euro coin) and the remnants of the palace at Lucera. Puglia’s cities, generally visited only as transport hubs, merit some exploration nevertheless. Táranto and its surroundings have fought a losing battle with the local steel industry, but Lecce is worth a visit of a day or two for its crazed confection of Baroque churches and laidback café life. Though Bari is not a traditional tourist destination, reinvestment in its maze-like old city is drawing visitors in-theknow for its ambiance and excellent restaurants; while Bríndisi, best known for its ferry connections with Greece, lies just 15km away from the beautiful Torre Guaceto nature reserve, a long stretch of uncontaminated sand dunes, macchia and clear water where you can cycle, walk or scuba dive. Puglia is geographically diverse, though it has to be said that the Tavoliere (tableland) of the north with mile upon mile of wheatﬁelds, is hardly the most exciting of landscapes. More alluring is the hilly, forested Gargano promontory jutting out to the east, fringed by gently shelving, sandy beaches, seaside hotels and campsite villages that make good places for a family holiday – though you’ll need to catch a

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Rijeka & Dubrovnik (Croatia)

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| Fóggia and around

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Bari Trani Molfetta

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ferry to the Trémiti Islands for the clearest sea. The best escape is to the southernmost tip, the Salentine peninsula where the terrain is rocky and dry, more Greek than Italian, and there are some beautiful coves and sea caves to swim in. Getting around Puglia by public transport is fairly easy, at least as far as the main towns and cities go. FS trains connect nearly all the major places, while small, private lines head into previously remote areas – in the Gargano and on the edges of Le Murge. Most other places can be reached by bus, although isolated village services can be infrequent or inconveniently early – a problem that can only really be solved by taking, or renting, your own car. In July and August buses connect coastal towns.

Fóggia and around

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The province of Fóggia, known also as the Tavoliere (tablelands), occupies a broad plain stretching from the foothills of the Apennines in the west and the Gargano massif in the east. The Romans exploited the ﬂat, fertile land to feed the hungry mouths of an expanding empire, although by the Middle Ages the area was largely abandoned, as it was difficult to defend against raids of Lombards and Saracens. The few settlements that did survive were unhealthy places, earthquakeprone swamplands rife with malarial mosquitoes. It wasn’t until the 1920s that the Tavoliere became “the breadbasket of Italy” as it was dubbed by Fascist rhetoric, outﬁtted with modern irrigation and drainage that transformed the formerly malarial swamps into the rich agricultural lands they are today. As the capital and transport hub of the province, Fóggia is not somewhere to linger – for more of an idea of what the Tavoliere is like, head for the walled town of Lucera or the little village of Tróia.

Durazzo/Durres

Igoumenitsa, Corfu, & Patras (Greece)

(Albania)

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SEA Igoumenitsa,

Egnázia

Torre a Mare Grotte di Castellana

TORRE GUACETO Ostuni RISERVA Villanova NATURALE

Fasano Locorotondo

Ostuni Cisternino

Lecce

Martina Franca

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| Fóggia and around

Putignano Alberobello

Brindisi

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Corfu, Patras, Kefallonia & Zante (Greece)

Polignano a Mare

Santa Maria di Leuca

Fóggia The Tavoliere’s main town, FÓGGIA, looms out of the plain unexpectedly, a starting point for exploring northern Puglia and the Gargano promontory, though not an encouraging stop in itself. Although Fóggia ﬂourished under Frederick II, who declared it an imperial residence and built a palace here, the town was devastated in turn by the French in 1528, an earthquake in 1731 and Allied bombs during World War II. Today the city’s streets are all reassuringly earthquake-proof, wide and low-built, a modern layout that is handsome enough, but you’re going to have to search hard in between the tree-lined boulevards for what is left of the old town. Arrival and information

Fóggia is an important rail junction on the main Bolzano–Lecce and Rome–Lecce lines. FS services arrive here from Rome and Milan and head south to Bari and Lecce, also running to Manfredonia; Ferrovie del Gargano (FG; T 0881.587.211, W www.ferroviedelgargano.com) trains go to Lucera and San Severo, and beyond to the northern coast of the Gargano promontory. The train station is on Piazzale Vittorio Veneto, on the northern edge of town, a short walk from Piazza Cavour and the centre. SITA buses, which serve the whole region, arrive at and depart from just outside the train station; buy tickets inside the train station or at the Kiwi Bar (which also sells train tickets to Manfredonia and Lucera; daily 4am–11pm), on the corner of Viale XXIV Maggio. The tourist office (Mon–Fri 8am–2pm, Tues & Thurs also 3.30–6pm; T 0881.723.141, W www.viaggiareinpuglia.it) is a twenty-minute walk into town, on the ﬁrst ﬂoor at Via E. Perrone 17, off Piazzale Puglia, and has a lot of good information on the whole province. If you are headed for the Gargano, it’s worth picking up Tutto Gargano from a newsstand, a great

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resource for accommodation and information on festivals and events: its online version (W www.tuttogargano.com) is also well worth a look. Accommodation

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| Fóggia and around 800

Staying in Fóggia may be necessary if you arrive late or need to leave early: Hotel Venezia, Via Piave 40 (T 0881.770.903, W www.hotelvenezia.it; 2 ), is a good, three-star hotel; head down Viale XXIV Maggio from the station, then third right. Hotel Europa, Via Monfalcone 52 (T 0881.721.057, W www.hoteleuropa foggia.com; 4 ), is more upmarket, with helpful, friendly staff – again it’s down Viale XXIV Maggio from the station, then second right. Finally, Cacciatore, in the historic centre near the cathedral at Via Arrigotti 4 (T 0881.580.661, W www .albergodelcacciatore.it; 2 ), is a good, friendly one-star, run by the same family for over ﬁfty years: its reasonably priced restaurant serves great home-made pasta (€7–8). The only time that bed space will be short is at the beginning of May, during the Fiera Internazionale dell’Agricultura (W www.ﬁeradifoggia.it), a huge agricultural festival held on the outskirts of the town.

Regional food and wine Puglia is known as the breadbasket of Italy. It’s the source of 80 percent of Europe’s pasta and much of Italy’s ﬁsh; it produces more wine than Germany and more olive oil than all the other regions of Italy combined. It’s famous for olives (from Cerignola), almonds (from Ruvo di Puglia), dark juicy tomatoes (often sun-dried), cime di rapa (turnip tops), fava beans, ﬁgs (fresh and dried), cotognata (a moulded jam made from quinces) and for its melons, grapes and green cauliﬂower. The inﬂuence of Puglia’s former rulers is still evident in the region’s food. Like the Greeks, Pugliesi eat lamb and goat spit-roast over herb-scented ﬁres and deep-fried doughnut-like cakes steeped in honey; and like the Spanish they drink almond milk, latte di mandorla. The most distinctive local pasta is orecchiette, ear-shaped pasta that you will still see women making in their doorways in the old part of Bari. Look out, too, for panzarotti alla barese, deep-fried pockets of dough stuffed with tomato or prosciutto and ricotta. Otherwise, there is a marked preference for short, stubby varieties of pasta, which you’ll ﬁnd served with peppers, cauliﬂower and cime di rapa. Not surprisingly, ﬁsh and shellﬁsh dominate coastal menus. There are some good ﬁsh soups (zuppe di pesce) whose ingredients and style vary from place to place – the Bríndisi version, for example, is dominated by eel. Vegetarians are well catered for with a range of meat-free antipasti, and combining pasta and vegetables is a typically Pugliese trait. A local meat dish is gnummerieddi: resembling haggis, it’s made by stufﬁng a lamb gut with minced offal, herbs and garlic – best grilled over an open ﬁre. There is little beef or pork eaten in Puglia, poultry is uncommon, aside from small game birds in season; as a result, horsemeat is popular, especially in the Salento area. To confound your prejudices, go for pezzetti di cavallo, bits of horsemeat stewed in a rich tomato sauce. Cheeses are a strong point, including ricotta, cacioricotta, canestrato (sheep’s-milk cheese formed in baskets) and burrata (cream encased in mozzarella, a speciality of Andria). Pair these products with the local durum-wheat breads, the most famous of which, pane di Altamura, carries the DOP seal of quality. There have recently been immense improvements in Puglia’s wines. While historically the inclination was towards mass production, yields have been reduced and grapes are now picked at precisely the right moment. Look for the formidable reds Primitivo di Manduria (aka red Zinfandel), Salice Salentino, and Negroamaro. Locorotondo is a straightforward, fresh white from Salento, a region known also for its rosati (rosé) called Salento Rosato, and dessert wine called Aleatico.

The Town

Good food options include Chacaito-L’osteria di Zio Aldo, near the Museo Civico at Via Arpi 62 (T 0881.708.104; closed Sun & Aug), a gourmet’s delight offering authentic, rigorously seasonal dishes including (from May to late October) orecchie di ciuccio (donkey-ear-shaped pasta) with tenerumi (courgette plant tendrils and leaves), or, year-round, broken tagliatelle dressed with a puree of fava beans, cicerchie (chickling vetch, a chickpea like legume) and mushrooms. There are also delicious home-made desserts and an extensive wine list. If you happen to be in town on 24 December, dinner is free between noon and 7pm; at other times of the year you’ll spend €30–35 per head excluding wine. For a more economical meal, Al Rugantino, Via Don Luigi Sturzo 23 (closed Mon) – head down Corso Roma and turn left at the sanatorium – serves great pizzas, while Gran Caffè Duetto (closed Sun), on Corso Vittorio Emanuele 64, is a good option for lunch (sandwiches, grilled vegetables, risotto or pasta) or for a lazy aperitif with plenty of nibbles.

| Fóggia and around

Eating and drinking

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The old town lies scattered around the Duomo, which is to the left off Corso Vittorio Emanuele, the main drag that runs down from the central, fountained Piazza Cavour. The cathedral is an odd Romanesque–Baroque sandwich, the top part tacked on in the eighteenth century after the earthquake. While you’re here, take a look at the recently renovated Museo Civico on Piazza Nigri (Tues–Sun 9am–1pm, Tues & Thurs 5–7pm; €2), reached by walking down the Corso to Via Arpi. Incorporated into the side of the building are three portals, one of which – the Porta Grande, with the pensive-looking eagles – is all that remains of Frederick II’s imperial palace. Duck inside and there are the usual regional archeological ﬁnds, a small picture gallery, and a more interesting section on local life and folklore. That really is it as far as Fóggia’s sights go, though there are enough green spaces and shopping streets in the new town to occupy any remaining time – something you might well have if you stopped in Fóggia to change trains.

Lucera Just 18km west, within easy reach of Fóggia (by bus or the new Ferrovie di Gargano train), LUCERA (pronounced Loosh-airer) makes a wonderful introduction to Puglia. A charming small town with a bright, bustling centre and a lively passeggiata on summer evenings, it was once the capital of the Tavoliere – a thriving Saracen hub. Frederick II, having forced the Arabs out of Sicily, resettled 20,000 of them here, on the site of an abandoned Roman town, allowing them complete freedom in religious worship – an almost unheard of act of liberalism for the early thirteenth century. The cathedral (daily 8am–noon & 5–7pm; free) was built in the early fourteenth century after Frederick II’s death, when the Angevins arrived and a conﬂict with the Saracens began. The Angevins won and built the cathedral on the site of a mosque; by the end of their rule, few of the town’s original Arab-inﬂuenced buildings were left. However, the Arabic layout of Lucera survived and there’s a powerful atmosphere here – best appreciated by wandering the narrow streets of the old town, peering into the courtyards and alleyways. Behind the cathedral, on Via De’ Nicastri, the Museo Civico (Tues–Sun 9am–1pm, Tues, Thurs & Sat also 4–7pm; free) has recently been restored. At present only the Roman section is open, with a collection including portrait busts, mosaics and a pair of muscly miniature gladiators tensed for battle.

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The main sights are outside the old centre, most notably the vast Castello (Tues– Sun: summer 9am–2pm & 3.15–6.45pm; winter 9am–2pm; free), built by Frederick and designed to house a lavish court that included a collection of exotic wild beasts. To get there from Piazza del Duomo, follow Via Bovio and Via Federico II to Piazza Matteotti and look for the signs. The castle commands spectacular views over the Tavoliere, stretching across to the Apennines to the west and the mountains of Gargano to the east. Contained within the kilometre-long walls are the remains of Frederick’s great palace, evocative fragments of mosaic-work and fallen columns now surrounded by wild ﬂowers. At the Roman amphitheatre (same hours as the Castello) on the western edge of town, audiences of 18,000 once watched gladiatorial battles: there are (free) guides on hand to show you round, but in Italian only. Practicalities

| Fóggia and around

Buses and trains run at least every 30 minutes from Fóggia. Buses stop at the train station and in Piazza del Popolo, from where it’s only a short walk up Via Gramsci to the Duomo, which marks the centre of the medieval walled town. Close to the cathedral is the helpful tourist office in Piazza Nocelli 6 (year-round Tues–Sun 9am–2pm; March–Oct also Tues–Fri 3–6pm; T 0881.522.762, W www.comune .lucera.fg.it). You can stay in town at the businesslike Hotel Villa Imperiale at Viale Ferrovia 15 (T 0881.520.998, W www.villaimperialehotel.com; 2 ), just outside the gate into the old town, or at their slightly more expensive sister establishment, Residenza Federico II (T 0881.201421, W www.residenzadifedericosecondo.it; 2 ) which has modernlooking rooms in a recently restored medieval building on Piazza del Popolo. There are also several B&Bs (the tourist office has a list) of which family-run Mimosa and Jasmine (T 338.457.0070, W www.mimosalucera.it; 2 ) are particularly appealing, located in the seventeenth-century palace on Via De’ Nicastri that houses the Museo Civico: breakfast is served in the garden, and Jasmine (which sleeps up to 5 people) has a small kitchen and washing machine. For eating, moderately priced Il Cortiletto, just behind the cathedral at Via De’ Nicastri 26 (T 0881.542.554; closed Sun eve and Mon lunch), serves excellent local food such as orecchiette with wild vegetables and a vast array of Pugliese wine, while the pub-like Lupus in Fabula, Via Mazzacarra 4 (T 0881.530.593; closed Sun lunch and 10 July–10 Aug), also in the old town, is a restaurant/wine bar/jazz club whose menu features typically Luceran dishes such as orecchiette with a local variety of tomato known as prunillo, sausage and rocket at moderate prices.

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Frequent buses also make the short ride (from either Lucera or Fóggia) to TRÓIA, 18km due south of Lucera. The locals seem curiously blasé as to the origin of their village’s name; it means “slut” in Italian, but no one is able to offer a logical connection with the village. Whatever the reason, the Tróiani atone for the name by having three patron saints, whose relics are paraded around town in a procession during the Gesta dei Santi Patroni every July 17. At all other times of the year Tróia is a quiet, dusty village, its only sight the ﬁne Duomo (daily 8.30am–noon & 3–7pm; free), an intriguing eleventh-century blend of Byzantine and Apulian-Romanesque styles, with a generous hint of Saracen. The great bronze doors are covered with reliefs of animals and biblical ﬁgures, while above, surrounded by a frenzy of carved lions frozen in stone, is an extraordinary rose window. Distinctly Saracen, the window resembles a ﬁnely worked piece of oriental ivory, composed of eleven stone panels, each one delicately carved. There’s more exact detail inside, too, including a curiously decorated pulpit and some ornate capitals.

Manfredonia

The easiest way to reach Manfredonia is by train from Fóggia: from the station turn right and it’s a short walk along Viale A. Moro to Piazza Marconi. Just across the square, Corso Manfredi leads up to the small tourist office in the comune building at Piazza del Popolo 10 (Mon–Fri 9am–1pm; T 0884.587.838), which has some information on the Gargano area. If you need to stay overnight, note that most accommodation is strung out along the gulf: Albergo Gabbiano, Viale Eunostides 20 (T 0884.542.554, W www.albergogabbiano.it; 2 ), 200m from the seafront in the nearby resort of Siponto is a good option. There are plenty of restaurants in Manfredonia, one of the best of which is Coppola Rossa, Via dei Celestini 13 (T 0884.582.522; closed all day Mon & Sun eve), where you can feast on seafood antipasti, troccoli alle cime di rapa (tiny pasta with turnip greens), orecchiette with rocket, prawns and scampi, or ﬁsh soup: expect to pay around €35 a head, including wine.

| Manfredonia • The Gargano promontory

Practicalities

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By Puglian standards, MANFREDONIA is a new town, a mere six hundred years old, founded – as the name suggests – by Manfred, illegitimate son of Frederick II. The Austrians struck the ﬁrst blow of World War I on Italian soil here by bombing the town’s station in 1915, but this is really Manfredonia’s only claim to fame. Heavy industry on the northern outskirts and the ﬂat, featureless landscape ensure that for most visitors it’s little more than a gateway to the Gargano promontory, and most people pass through quickly. Still, what the town lacks in ambiance and historical sights is more than made up for by its sandy beaches, which stretch for miles down the coast. The Castello, on Corso Manfredi, was begun by Manfred and later extended by the Angevins. The Spanish added huge bastions in 1607 to stave off a Turkish attack: they failed to do so, with the Turks landing in 1620, ravaging the hapless inhabitants and destroying much of the town – though most of the protective walls still survive. The castle now houses the Museo Nazionale (daily 8.30am–7pm; €2.50), largely devoted to funeral art from the seventh and sixth centuries BC. The prize exhibits are several stone tombstones, richly carved with images of armoured warriors, female ﬁgures and scenes from daily life.

The Gargano promontory The Gargano promontory rises like an island from the ﬂat plains of the Tavoliere. It has a remarkably diverse landscape: beaches and lagoons to the north, a rocky, indented eastern coast and a mountainous, green heartland of oaks and beech trees – reminiscent of a Germanic forest rather than a corner of southern Italy. For centuries the promontory was extremely isolated, visited only by pilgrims making their way along the valley to Monte Sant’Angelo and its shrine. Tourism has taken off in a big way, especially around the seaside resort of Vieste, but in 1991 the whole peninsula became a national park, helping to protect it from overbearing development and ensuring that much of the interior remains supremely unspoiled and quiet. It may seem as though the promontory is one long strip of private beach, but bear in mind that by Italian law everyone has access to the actual seashore, as well as the 50m length between the reserved areas. Check with your hotel – often the price of a sunbed and umbrella at the nearest beach is included in the cost of an overnight stay.

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THE GARGANO PROMONTORY

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Arrival and transport

Just north of Manfredonia, perched almost 800m up in the hills, MONTE SANT’ANGELO is the highest – and coldest – settlement in the Gargano. Pilgrims have trudged up the switchback paths and roads for centuries to visit the spot where the archangel Michael is said to have made four separate appearances, mostly at the end of the ﬁfth century – making the sanctuary here one of the earliest Christian shrines in Europe and one of the most important in Italy. Today, the pilgrims come by bus, and the village is a bit of a tourist trap. But the annual major festivals on May 8 and September 28, 29 and 30 attract locals from miles around, some of whom turn up in traditional dress. SITA buses (every hour from Manfredonia) drop you in Piazza Duca d’Aosta, from where you should follow the road uphill to the edge of the old town and the Via Reale Basilica; here you’ll ﬁnd the famous Santuario di San Michele Arcangelo (Mon–Sat 7.30am–12.30pm, 2.30–8pm, Sun 7.30am–8pm; free). From the small courtyard on the right a ﬂight of stone steps leads down to the crypts that form the entrance to the church built on the site of the cave in which the archangel ﬁrst appeared (in 490). Opposite, another set of steps leads down to the nearby ruins of the Complesso di San Pietro, behind which is the so-called Tomba di Rotari (8.30am–12.30pm, 2.30–dusk; 60c) – an imposing domed tower that contained a baptistry; the large baptismal font is just on the right as you enter the tower. Little remains of the church itself, wrecked by an earthquake, but the rose window – a Catherine wheel of entwined mermaids. Back on Via Reale Basilica, it’s an easy clamber up to the ruined Norman Castello (daily: July & Aug 8am–1pm & 2.30–7pm; Sept–June 9am–1pm & 2.30–6pm; €2) for good views over the town and valley.

| The Gargano promontory

Monte Sant’Angelo

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Approaches to the promontory are pretty straightforward. FS trains run from Fóggia to Manfredonia on the southeast side of Gargano, from where it’s only 16km by bus to Monte Sant’Angelo. Alternatively, in the north of the region, Ferrovie del Gargano (T 0881.587.211, W www.ferroviedelgargano.com) operates trains between Fóggia and San Severo. You then change here for onward travel to Péschici–Calanelle, from where a bus connects with Péschici. Note that most FG stations are quite a distance from the towns and villages they serve, so always go for the connecting bus if there is one. Getting around the interior can be a little more tortuous. Buses are run by two companies: SITA (T 0881.352.011, W www.sitabus.it) which serves the inland towns and operates the inland route to Vieste; and Ferrovie del Gargano, which runs the trains and connecting buses in northern Gargano, including a coastal bus route to Vieste, via Manfredonia, Mattinata and Pugnochiuso.

Practicalities

For overnight stays (though don’t count on available beds at the main festival times) there is a three-star hotel run by a religious institution, but open to everybody, next to the Santuario: Casa del Pellegrino (T 0884.561.150, W www.santuariosan michele.it; 2 ). The rooms are modern and well looked after, and there’s a set lunch and dinner menu for €15, but you must be in by midnight. Alternatively, there’s the family-run Michael, facing the sanctuary on Via Reale Basilica 86 (T 0884.561.132, W www.hotelmichael.com; 2 ), or the Hotel Sant’Angelo in a panoramic location, about 1km out of town on the road to Pulsano (T 0884.562.146, W www.hotel santangelo.com; 2 ).

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| The Gargano promontory

For snacks, ignore the touristy places in the lower town and head instead for the bakery outside the castle, where they’ll make you up a sandwich from anything on the deli counter and sell you a cold beer. One of the best restaurants in town is Medioevo, Via Castello 21 (T 0884.565.356; closed Mon in winter), serving excellent seasonal local dishes such as pancotto con verza, patate e fave (bread baked with cabbage, potatoes and fava beans) and delectable home-made desserts: expect to pay around €30 for a full meal, including wine. Another culinary highlight is Taverna Li Jalantuúmene (T 0884.565.484 or 348.797.6321; closed Tues), on the tiny whitewashed Piazza de Galganis in the maze of streets opposite the Santuario. The menu is constantly changing to reﬂect the seasonal produce and features both traditional and innovative recipes. The orecchiette con zucca, mandorle e pecorino (with pumpkin, almonds and cheese), quadrati di podico con crema di rapa (ravioli ﬁlled with organic cheese, dressed with pureed turnip greens) and ﬁletto di mucca podolica (free-range steak) are superb. You can eat à la carte, or choose one of the ﬁxed menus: for example the vegetarian menu at €30 excluding wine, or a tasting menu at €40 excluding wine.

The pilgrim route: San Giovanni Rotondo The ancient pilgrim route weaved its way along the Stignano valley between San Severo in the west and Monte Sant’Angelo, and until comparatively recently was the only road that linked the villages of the Gargano interior. With your own transport, it’s still a good route for exploring a couple of the region’s most important religious centres. If you want to follow any part of the pilgrim route by bus, you’ll have to plan your itinerary carefully and be prepared to travel in leisurely fashion. Direct bus services between Monte Sant’Angelo and the ﬁrst village on the route, SAN GIOVANNI ROTONDO, run every couple of hours, although the SITA bus from Manfredonia or Fóggia is much more frequent (see p.799). Nestling under Monte Calvo, the highest peak hereabouts, San Giovanni Rotondo is a modern centre for pilgrimage on a massive scale: it’s the burial place of Padre Pio, a local priest who died in 1968 and was canonized in 2002. Pio received the stigmata and won an immense following – especially among Italian Catholics – for his model piety and legendary ability to heal the sick. Proof of his divinity was announced in 2008 when his body was exhumed and pronounced to be in good condition and without signs of the stigmata, forty years after his burial. Padre Pio is hugely popular in Italy, and you’ll see his image – bearing an uncanny resemblance to the late John Peel – stuck on the walls of bars, shops and petrol stations throughout the south. A whole industry has grown up around him in San Giovanni Rotondo, fuelled by the seven million and more pilgrims who pass through every year, making it the most visited pilgrimage site in the world after Lourdes. In 2004, renowned architect Renzo Piano completed a striking new church, the shape of which resembles a large snail – its “shell” forming the roof and enveloping the pilgrims below. The town takes its name from the Rotonda di San Giovanni, a building of indeterminate origin on the edge of the old town – like the Tomba di Rotari (see p.805), it’s thought to have been a baptistry, built on the site of an earlier pagan temple.

Vieste and around 806

VIESTE juts out into the Adriatic on two promontories, the easternmost point of the Gargano promontory. Fifty years ago there wasn’t even a proper road here, but today Vieste, with its excellent beaches, is the holiday capital of Gargano, and the streets and sands are packed in August. Despite the crowds, it is a lively and

inviting town, with an interesting historic core and, in summer at least, a fairly lively nightlife. Arrival, information and accommodation

Albergo Torrente Lungomare Mattei T 0884.700.945, W www.altorrente.it. Located 2.5km from the old town, this is an economic and atmospheric seaside choice. Easter–Oct. 2 Albergo Vela Velo Lungomare Europa 55 T 0884.706.303, W www.velavelo.it. This small, friendly two-star is a good-value option, 1.5km north of the castle along the shore. Room rates include the use of a sunbed and umbrella at the San Lorenzo beach (except in high season) and it’s an easy cycle into town on one of their mountain

bikes (free to guests). They also run a wind-surﬁng school. April–Oct. 2 Punta San Francesco Via San Francesco 2 T0884.701.422, Wwww.hotelpuntasanfrancesco .it. Though showing its age, this hotel enjoys a quiet position in the old town with lovely views over the promontory. All rooms are en suite. April–Oct. 2 Seggio Via Veste 7 T0884.708.123, Wwww .hotelseggio.it. An upmarket option in the old town with vertiginous views down to its swimming pool, and with its own private sandy beach and lagoon. April–Oct. 3

| The Gargano promontory

Hotels

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You arrive by bus at Piazzale Manzoni, to the west of the town centre, though there are plans to move the terminus further out to Via Verdi. The main tourist office is on Piazza Kennedy, on the seafront at the end of the main drag, Viale XXIV Maggio/Corso Lorenzo Fazzini ( June to mid-Sept daily 8am–2pm & 3–9pm; April, May, mid-Sept to Oct Mon–Sat 8am–2pm & 3–9pm; Nov to end March Mon–Fri 8am–2pm; T 0884.707.495, W www.viaggiareinpuglia.it). There’s no shortage of accommodation in Vieste but the dwindling number of budget options and rooms are hard to come by if you want just one night’s stay (try to call a day in advance). For help ﬁnding self-catering accommodation (minimum stay of a week), ask at SOL (see p.808).

The Town

The old town sits on the easternmost of the two promontories, at the tip of which stands the Chiesa di San Francesco, once a thriving monastery, and a trabucco – used by ﬁshermen to catch mullet. Probably Phoenician in origin, these cantilevered arrangements of wooden beams, winches and ropes are found on the rocky Gargano coast, and further north around Vasto in Abruzzo (see p.724). From the church, climb up Via Mafrolla, walking through the old town to Piazza Seggio. Straight ahead, Via Duomo is the site of the so-called Chianca Amara, the “bitter stone”, where ﬁve thousand local people were beheaded when the Turks sacked the town in 1554. Further down, past the stone, the Cattedrale, eleventh century in origin but tampered with in the nineteenth, provides a cool retreat from the ﬁerce glare of the sun in the whitewashed streets. Eating and drinking

There are plenty of ﬁsh restaurants to choose in and around the old town. If you’re on a budget, try the pair of cheerful pizzerias in Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II. The terrace bar at Seggio (see above) is a perfect place to chill before dinner. Al Dragone Via Duomo 8 T 0884.701.212. Located in a natural cave, Al Dragone is good for local ﬁsh dishes, such as smoked eel from nearby Lesina, and unusual desserts. It offers a daily menu for €25, including drinks, or there are platters of Gargano cheeses and vegetables, and regional wine by the glass. Closed Nov to end March and Tues in April, May, Sept & Oct.

Osteria degli Archi Via Ripe 2 T 0884.705.199. Occupying a restored stone building in the sea wall at the Punta di San Francesco end of the old town, it specializes in locally caught, grilled seafood. Primis for €7–10 and ﬁsh mains from €10–12. Closed Dec–Feb, plus Mon Oct–April.

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Around Vieste

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| The Gargano promontory

There are a number of day-trips worth making around Vieste. The most obvious move is to the beaches: head for the small one between the promontories or to the north, San Lorenzo, with ﬁne, soft, gently shelving sand, or ﬁnally, just south of town, Pizzomunno, which is also sandy. They all go in for the grill-pan variety of sunbathing with rows and rows of sunbeds. Slightly less crowded, if you’re lucky, is the marvellous Scialmarino beach, 4.5km up the coast towards Péschici. Nicest of all is the small Baia di San Felice, squeezed between two headlands and backed by pine trees, just before you get to the Testa del Gargano, several kilometres south of town. If you want to swim away from the crowds, consider an organized boat trip to the grotto-ridden coastline around the “head” or Testa del Gargano. Boats leave for the three-hour grotto excursion from next to San Francesco church at around 9am and 3.30pm; tickets cost €13 and are available from SOL (daily: June–Aug 9.30am–1.15pm & 5pm–1am; mid-March to May, Sept to mid-Nov 9am–1pm & 4–8pm; closed mid-Nov to mid-March; T 340.906.2046, W www.solvieste.it) at Via Trepiccioni 5. If you really want to get away from it all, you could rent your own boat for the day, from SOL. The interior of the Gargano promontory can make a cool break from its busy coast, and though there’s not much public transport, apart from the odd bus from Vieste, San Menaio and Rodi Garganico, you can rent mountain bikes or ﬁx up jeep safaris or pony trekking. The main tourist office is in Monte Sant’Angelo on Via Sant’Antonio Abate 121 (T 0884.568.911, W www.parcogargano.it) and should be able to help you organize any of these. The SOL agency (see above) also arranges tours and rents out cars and mountain bikes.

Péschici and northern Gargano Atop its rocky vantage point overlooking a beautiful sandy bay, PÉSCHICI is a little smaller than Vieste and one of the most attractive village resorts in the Gargano. Though originally built in 970 AD as a buffer against Saracen incursions, its labyrinth of tiny streets and houses sporting domed roofs has a distinctly Arabic ﬂavour. Beach-lazing is the focus, although the town also makes a good base for exploring some of the caves and defensive medieval towers of the nearby coastline. The easiest trips are to the grotto at San Nicola, 3km east of town (some buses), or 5km west to the Torre di Monte Pucci for ﬁne coastal views (and where there’s a trabucco restaurant for refreshments in the summer months). Arrival, information and accommodation

The FG train line ends at Calanelle, a few kilometres west of Péschici, but there’s a connection to the town by a bus. This, and other buses, drops you in the newer, beach-resort part of Péschici, from where it’s a short walk down to the main street – Corso Garibaldi – and the sea. Most hotels are in the newer part of town. Many are on the beach or have sunbeds reserved at a private beach club at a reduced price. Hotels, guesthouses and campsite

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Baia San Nicola Localitá San Nicola T 0884.964.231, W www.baiasannicola.it. Along the coast at Punta San Nicola, 2km east of Péschici, this campsite features sandy beaches and shady pine groves. Pitches from €7, plus €10 per person in high season. Closed mid-Oct to mid-May.

Hotel d’Amato Localitá Spiaggia T0884.963.415, Wwww.hoteldamato.it. Off the SS89 next to the beach, this hotel offers modern rooms, a restaurant, a bar and two swimming pools. April to mid-Oct. 3 Locanda Al Castello Via Castello 29 T0884.964.038, W www.peschicialcastello.it. Up in the old town, down a narrow lane of whitewashed houses, Al Castello has nine simple

rooms and a restaurant offering ﬁve or six daily specials. 2 Villa a Mare Localitá Marina di Péschici, Via Marina 1 T0884.963.414, Wwww.villaamare.it.

Newly renovated and well-kept hotel next to the sea with a shady patio garden next to the car park. April to mid-Oct. 2

Eating and drinking

There are scores of restaurants, pizzerias, gelaterie and bars in the old town, scene of a lively passeggiata that goes on all evening.

West along the coast and onwards

| The Trémiti Islands

port outside the old town, this restaurant specializes in ﬁsh and the antipasti are especially good. Choose carefully, and you can have a full meal for €25 including wine. Closed Nov–Feb. La Collinetta Localitá Madonna di Loreto T 0884.964.151. This hotel-restaurant, on the coast road to Vieste, serves slightly pricey ﬁsh dishes such as gnocchi con scampi and red mullet baked in foil. Its hotel’s half-board options are worth looking into. Closed Oct to mid-March.

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Fra Stefano Via Forno 8 T 0884.964.141. An informal place serving moderately priced, delicious raw and cooked seafood antipasti, ﬁsh grilled over a wood ﬁre, ruoto (baby goat or lamb roasted with little onions and potatoes) and cavatelli (homemade pasta with seafood). A full meal costs around €30, but the portions are huge, so you can easily get away with paying less. Closed mid-Jan to Feb, plus Mon–Thurs March–Easter. Grotta delle Rondini Via al Porto 64 T0884.964.007. Built in a natural cave near the

A string of white sandy beaches stretches from San Menaio to RODI GARGANICO – originally a Greek settlement (“Rodi” is derived from Rhodes) and now a highly popular summer resort. It’s busy and expensive in August, but go a couple of months either side, and it can be delightful. SAN MENAIO is much quieter than Rodi – more compact and with fewer villas – and even in high season it’s easy to get away from it all by walking a few hundred metres south along the strand. From Rodi Garganico, both road and rail skirt the large Lago di Varano, a oncemalarial swamp that swallowed the ancient Athenian town of Uria in the fourth century BC. The preserve of eel ﬁshermen, it’s the least-visited region on the Gargano promontory, and consequently attracts a great variety of birdlife, particularly curlews and warblers. Further west, the thin Lago di Lésina is a highly saline shallow lagoon, cut off from the sea by a 27-kilometre stretch of sand dunes. It’s still mercifully free from development – unlike the northern spit of Varano, which is slowly beginning to ﬁll with campsites.

The Trémiti Islands A small group of islands 40km off the Gargano coast, the Trémiti Islands – Isole Trémiti – are almost entirely given over to tourism in the summer, when the tiny population is swamped by visitors. Despite this, they remain relatively unspoilt and the sea crystal clear. The main Trémiti group consists of three islands: San Nicola, San Domino – the biggest – and Capraia, of which only the ﬁrst two are inhabited. The islands were traditionally a place of exile and punishment. Augustus banished his granddaughter Julia to the islands, while Charlemagne packed his father-in-law off here (minus eyes and limbs) in the eighth century. Monks from Montecassino, on the mainland, ﬁrst set about building a formidable fortressabbey on one of the islands in the eleventh century, which managed to withstand frequent assault by the Turks. Later, during the eighteenth century, the islands returned to their old role as a place of conﬁnement for political prisoners, though

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Getting to the Trémiti Islands

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There is a daily service (mid-June to mid-September) to the Trémiti Islands from Vieste and Rodi Garganico, run by NavLib (T 081.552.0763, W www.navlib .it); tickets are available online, at the ports, and from Gargáno Viaggi at Piazza Roma 7 in Vieste (T 0884.708.501, W www.garganoviaggi.it) and Agenzia Gargano in the port at Rodi (T 0884.965665). Ferries and fast ferries for foot passengers run throughout the year from Térmoli (see p.725). Tourist motor cruisers from Péschici and Rodi Gargánico also offer day-trips to the islands during the holiday season.

| The Trémiti Islands

the Bourbons, concerned at the decline in the local population, shipped in two hundred single women from Naples to encourage a recovery. Most ferries arrive at SAN NICOLA, where you can wander around the monastic fortress and the tiny church of Santa Maria a Mare, built by the monks in the eleventh century on the site of an earlier ninth-century hermitage. San Nicola is rugged and rocky with no beaches, although there is nude bathing on its east side and good swimming off the whole island. Ignore the offers of pricey boat trips to the other islands and instead jump on the regular ferry that takes about a minute to cross to SAN DOMINO. It’s a greener island than its neighbour, its pines offering welcome shade from the heat. Although there’s a sandy beach – Cala delle Arene – right where the ferry lands on the northeast side of the island, it’s packed in the summer. Your best bet is to follow the signs for the Villaggio TCI and make for the west of the island and the quieter coves, such as Cala dello Spido. If you’re walking, head for the Punta di Diamante; maps are pinned up in some of the bars or can be bought from souvenir shops. Practicalities

Accommodation on the islands is limited to San Domino and is largely full board in high season: count on paying €50–60 a night per person. The municipio on San Domino holds a list of bed and breakfasts and private rooms, or you could try the most appealing of the small hotels, Albergo La Pineta (T 0882.463.202, W www .albergolapineta.info; closed Nov–March; 2 ), a whitewashed villa surrounded by pine trees, near some peaceful rocky coves just outside the tiny village centre on Via della Cantina Sperimentale 3. Alternatively, there are two places in the village: Al Faro at Via Aldo Moro 22 (T 0882.463.424, W www.alfarotremiti.it; March–Oct; 1 ), with purple bougainvillaea clambering over the outside and a brightly painted interior, has four rooms as well as three 4-bed apartments with kitchen facilities, and Albergo Gabbiano ensconced in greenery in Piazza Belvedere (T 0882.463.410, W www.hotel-gabbiano.com; closed Dec; 1 in low season, June–Sept half-board (€85pp) or full board (€95pp) obligatory); it’s essential to book ahead for all three. Bear in mind that mosquitoes tend to be a serious problem in the summer and that, as provisions have to be ferried across from the mainland, eating out can be a costly exercise – buy some picnic food before you get on the boat.

Trani and Molfetta 810

The initial part of the coastal route south from Manfredonia is unremarkable, with ﬂat lands given up to saline extraction. The ﬁrst town of note down the coast is TRANI, a beautiful stone-built port and ﬁshing village with an unusually cosmopolitan air. One of the most important medieval Italian ports, it was a

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| Bari

prosperous trading centre with a large mercantile and Jewish community; during the Middle Ages it rivalled Bari as a commercial port, and in the fourteenth century was powerful enough to take on the domineering Venetians. Centrepiece of the town is the cream-coloured, eleventh-century Duomo (daily 8am–12.30pm & 3–7.30pm; free), right on the sea at the edge of the old town. Dedicated to San Nicola Pellegrino, it consists of no fewer than three churches, stacked on top of each other like an inverted wedding cake – the facade austere but lightened by a pretty rose window. The interior has been restored to its original Norman state, the stark nave displaying a timbered ceiling. A wander through the adjacent streets gives an impression of the medieval city, not least in the names that echo the town’s mercantile and Jewish origins – Via Sinagoga, Via Doge Vecchia and Via Cambio (Street of the Moneychangers). Trani bursts with activity in the evenings and weekends when locals pour into the town’s excellent restaurants and wine bars, most of which are concentrated around the port. Among these is Conteinﬁore on Via Ognissanti 18 (T 0883.508.402; closed Sun & Mon at lunch), serving inspired contemporary ﬁsh dishes that change according to the day’s catch, in a tree-ﬁlled patio (heated in winter). A selection of six antipasti (€10) makes for a stunning lunch – there might be sea bass with a salsa of orange and courgette, swordﬁsh rolled around ricotta, prawns steamed with fennel and orange for example – while a full meal should cost around €35 per head. Several B&Bs have opened recently in Trani’s tangled old centre, of which BB60, Via La Giudea 60 T 0883.954.763 or 366.341.6550, W www.bbtrani60.it; 2 ), is outstanding, a medieval house in the heart of the ghetto, with three contemporary styled rooms within its exposed stone walls. The rail line continues south to MOLFETTA, a working port, unashamedly non-touristy and all the better for it; the waterfront is active with visiting ships and thronged by an evening passeggiata that sweeps down to the docks to watch the sunset.

Bari The commercial and administrative capital of Puglia, a university town and southern Italy’s second city, BARI has its fair share of interest. But although it’s an economically vibrant place, the town harbours no pretensions to being a major tourist attraction. People come here primarily for work or to leave for Greece, Croatia and Albania on its many ferries. Bari was already a thriving centre when the Romans arrived. Later, the city was the seat of the Byzantine governor of southern Italy, while, under the Normans, Bari rivalled Venice both as a maritime centre and, following the seizure of the remains of St Nicholas, as a place of pilgrimage. Since those heady days, Bari has declined considerably. Its fortunes revived brieﬂy in 1813 when the king of Naples foisted a planned expansion on the city – giving the centre its contemporary gridded street pattern, wide avenues and piazzas. And Mussolini instituted a university and left a legacy of strident Fascist architecture. However, the city was heavily bombed during the last war, and today its compact and dynamic centre is a symbol of the south’s zeal for commercial growth. Fortunately, heavy investment in redeveloping the old centre has given Bari a new lease on life.

Arrival and information Bari’s airport (T 080.580.0200, W www.seap-puglia.it) is 25km northwest from the city centre and served by low-cost airlines from the UK. The #16 AMTAB

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Chiesa di San Gregorio

Baresi bag snatchers A word of warning: the Baresi take positive delight in portraying the old city as a den of thieves, and certainly strolling through the narrow alleys with your camera in full view isn’t particularly wise. Bag snatching by young kids on mopeds (the topini, or “little mice”) isn’t as rife as it once was, but neither is it extinct, so it’s best to keep your wits about you.

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| Bari

bus connects the airport with the central station every forty minutes to an hour (5am–9.40pm; 40min; €0.80); there’s also a shuttle bus run (at least one per hour) by Autobus Tempesta (daily 6am–00.20am; 30min; €4.15 one way; T 080.521.9172, W www.autoservizitempesta.it). There are three train stations. Stazione Centrale in Piazza Aldo Moro is on the southern edge of the modern centre and serves regular FS trains and those of the private Ferrovia del Sud-Est line (T 080.546.2111, W www.fseonline.it), which run down to Táranto via Alberobello, Locorotondo and Martina Franca (see p.819 for more on this route). Just to the west, also on Piazza Aldo Moro, the separate Stazione Bari-Nord is for trains run by the private FerroTramViaria company (T 080.529.9342, W www.ferrovienordbarese.it), connecting Bari with Andria, Barletta, Bitonto and Ruvo di Puglia. Adjacent to this, on Corso Italia, is the Stazione FAL Apulo-Lucane; trains and buses from here are run by Ferrovia Appulo-Lucane (T 080.572.5211, W www.fal-srl.it) and go to Altamura, Gravina, and Matera and Potenza in Basilicata. Buses complicate things further: from the coastal towns north of Bari you’ll arrive at Piazza Eroi del Mare; SITA buses from inland and southern towns, Miccolis buses from Rome, and FAL buses from Basilicata pull up in Largo Sorrentino (behind the train station). FSE buses from Bríndisi pull in at Largo Ciaia (Mon–Sat), and on Largo Sorrentino (Sun), when they substitute for the train service. Ferries all use the Stazione Maríttima, next to the old city, which is connected with the main FS train station by bus #20. Getting around, your best bet is to walk – not a bad option in such a small city. The efficient tourist office is at Piazza Aldo Moro 33/A, in a small cul-de-sac to the right as you come out of the main train station (Mon–Sat 10am–1pm & 3–6pm, Sun 10am–1pm; T 080.990.9341, W www.infopointbari.com).

Accommodation The majority of accommodation is found in the modern part of Bari although some small B&Bs are opening up in the old city (see the tourist office or W www .infopointbari.com for a list). The most affordable hotels are found around the train station, though the area takes a turn for the worse after dark. Casa dei Venti Via Dante 182 T345.740.6687, Wwww.casadeiventi.com. Stylish new B&B in the modern town, about ten minutes’ walk from the train station. Three spacious rooms and a suite, with classic furniture and contemporary decor, all with a/c, fridges and TV. Large breakfasts, in a splendid room wallpapered with Nina Campbell butterﬂies, include scrambled eggs and other savouries on request. Free wi-ﬁ. 3 Costa Via Crisanzio 12 T080.521.9015, W www.hotelcostabari.com. Simple but attractive

rooms in an apartment building one block from the station. 2 Giulia Via Crisanzio 12 T080.521.6630, Wwww .hotelpensionegiulia.it. In the same building as Costa, this pensione is run by a pleasant couple, has internet access and some en-suite rooms. 2 Hotel Boston Via Piccinni 115 T080.521.6633, Wwww.bostonbari.it. A stone’s throw from the old city, this business traveller’s hotel has comfortable, if characterless, rooms and is in a safe area convenient for an evening passeggiata. 3

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The City

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| Bari

Even if you’re only in Bari to catch a ferry, try to make time for a wander around the old city, an entrancing jumble of streets that’s possibly the most perplexing place to walk around in southern Italy. Situated at the far end of Corso Cavour, its labyrinth of seemingly endless passages weaving through courtyards and under arches was originally designed to spare the inhabitants from the wind and throw invaders into a state of confusion. This it still does admirably, and even with the best of maps you’re going to get lost. Life is lived very much outdoors, and on summer evenings it’s full of people sitting outside their kitchen doors. The Basilica di San Nicola (daily 7.30am–1pm & 4–7pm; museum Tues–Fri 10am–noon; free), in the heart of the old city, was, as an inscription at the side of the main door testiﬁes, consecrated in 1197 to house the relics of the saint plundered a century earlier from southern Turkey. The real beauty of the church lies in its stonework, with the twelfth-century altar canopy one of the ﬁnest in Italy. The motifs around the capitals are the work of stonemasons from Como, while the lovely twelfth-century carved doorway and simple, striking mosaic ﬂoor behind the altar are heavily inﬂuenced by the Saracens. Best of all is the twelfthcentury episcopal throne behind the altar, a superb piece of work supported by small ﬁgures wheezing beneath its weight. Down in the crypt are the remains of the saint – patron of Bari, many surrounding towns, orphans, pawnbrokers, thieves, sailors, and of Russians. It’s not far from the basilica to Bari’s other important church, the Cattedrale di San Sabino (Mon–Sat 8am–12.30pm & 4–7.30pm, Sun 8am–12.30pm & 5–8.30pm; free), off Piazza Odegitria, dedicated to the original patron saint of Bari, before he was usurped by Nicholas, and built at the end of the twelfth century. Come just for the contrast: uncluttered by arches, it retains its original medieval atmosphere and – unlike the basilica – a timbered roof. The cathedral houses an eighth-century icon known as the Madonna Odegitria, brought here for safety from Constantinople by Byzantine monks. It’s said to be the most authentic likeness of the Madonna in existence, having been taken from an original sketch by Luke the Apostle, and is paraded around the city at religious festivals. Due west of the Piazza Odegitria, the Castello Normanno-Svevo (Thurs–Tues 9am–7pm; €2) sits on the site of an earlier Roman fort. Built by Frederick II, much of it is closed to the public, but it has a vaulted hall that provides a cool escape from the afternoon sun. You can also see a gathering of some of the best of past Puglian artistry in a display of plaster-cast reproductions from churches and buildings throughout the region – particularly from the Castel del Monte, the cathedral at Altamura, and an animated frieze of griffins devouring serpents, from the church of San Leonardo at Siponto. The new town

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There’s not a lot to the “new town” of Bari: straight streets are lined with shops and offices, relieved occasionally by the odd bit of greenery. Corso Cavour, Bari’s main commercial street, bordered with trees, leads down to the waterfront. Along the Lungomare in Palazzo della Provincia, the Pinacoteca Provinciale (Tues–Sat 9.30am–7pm, Sun 9am–1pm; €2) contains mostly southern Italian art ranging from the twelfth to nineteenth centuries, but there are also works by Tintoretto and Paolo Veronese that were moved from the cathedral, and a small collection of paintings by the twentieth-century Bolognese painter, Giorgio Morandi.

Eating and drinking There are lots of colourful choices of places to eat in and around the old town of Bari. Most offer traditional Pugliese dishes and seafood, along with the Bari speciality of orecchiette, ear-shaped pasta. In the evenings stalls sell panzerotti and sgagliozze (fried polenta cubes) around Piazza Mercantile and Piazza del Ferrarese.

| Bari

speciality is horse meat shouldn’t put you off – there are plenty of other choices as well, and the antipasti buffet is not to be missed. Reservations recommended. Closed Sun eve and Mon. Paniﬁcio Fiore Strada Palazzo di Città 38. Locals queue for their delicious focaccia barese, simply garnished with tomatoes, olives, salt and olive oil (€1.50). Closed Thurs eve and Sun. Terranima Via Putignani 213–215 T080.521.9725. Informal café-restaurant serving a daily changing menu of regional specialities such as troccoli with rocket pesto, fava-bean puree and baby squid (€8.50). There’s often live music in the evening. Closed Sun & Aug.

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Due Ghiottoni Via Putignani 11 T080.523.2240. One of the town’s top restaurants serves good shellﬁsh and a reﬁned version of Pugliese cuisine in attractive surroundings just outside the old city. Count on €60 for a full meal. Closed Aug & Mon, except in summer. Le Arpie Vico Arco Carmine 1/3 T080.521.7988. Rustic and moderately priced, serving generous antipasti and classic local specialities like tiella di riso, patate e cozze (rice casserole with potatoes and mussels). Closed Wed and two weeks in Jan. Osteria delle Travi Largo Chiurlia 12 T 080.561.7150. This inexpensive old-town trattoria has been serving up authentic local food in pleasing surroundings since 1813 – that it’s

Ferries from Bari International ferry services run from Bari to Greece, Albania and Croatia; for information and timetables call T800.573.738 or visit W www.porto.bari.it. Travel agents often have special offers on tickets; as a general rule, you will save 20 percent if you buy a return ticket. Once you’ve got your ticket, you must report to the relevant desk at the Stazione Maríttima at least two hours before departure. Prices given below are for travel in high season.

Albania Tirrenia (T892.123, Wwww.tirrenia.it), Ventouris (T0805.217.609, Wwww.ventouris .gr), Azzurra (T0805.928.400, Wwww.azzurraline.com) and Agemar (T0805.211.069, Wwww.agemar.it) run car ferries to Durazzo/Durres in Albania daily all year round; the journey takes eight hours overnight (from €31.50 one way, €36.50 for a reclining seat).

Croatia Jadrolinija operates services to Rijeka, Stari Grad, Dubrovnik, Korcula and Split in Croatia, departing late evening for a night crossing of the Adriatic. For the full timetable visit Wwww.jadrolinija.hr or contact Agenzia P. Lorusso (T0805.217.619, W www.agenzialorusso.it) in the Stazione Maríttima (tickets start at €40 for deck passage one-way to Dubrovnik).

Greece Ferry services to Greece are operated by Ventouris, Superfast (W www.superfast .com) and Agoudimos (Wwww.agoudimos-lines.com). All three companies offer online booking. Ventouris runs two to four services daily to Corfu and Igoumenitsa; one-way prices start at €33 per person on deck, €38 extra for a car, plus port fees. The service to Igoumenitsa takes about twelve hours and the service to Corfu about ten. Superfast runs a daily overnight sailing to Corfu (9hr), Igoumenitsa (10hr 30min) and Patras (16hr 30min) year-round. Prices start at €53 for deck passage to Corfu in low season, rising to €75 in July and August, while vehicles cost from €54 in low season to €87 in July and August.

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Listings Airport information Bari Palese T 080.580.0200, Wwww.seap-puglia.it. Exchange Outside banking hours in Piazza Aldo Moro, inside Stazione Centrale and at the Stazione Maríttima. Police Via Paolo Aquilino 3 T 080.549.1331.

Post ofﬁce The main ofﬁce is near the university in Piazza Umberto I 33/A (Mon–Fri 8am–6.30pm, Sat 8.30am–12.30pm). Taxis Radio Taxi T080.554.3333, W www.taxibari .it (24hr).

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Le Murge

| Bari

Rising gently from the Adriatic coast, Le Murge – a low limestone plateau – dominates the landscape to the south and west of Bari. The towns in the region are not natural holiday destinations: the area is sparsely populated and the small settlements that exist are rural backwaters with a slow pace of life. But they do make an interesting day out or a good stopover if you’re heading for the region of Basilicata. There are some buses and trains from Bari, but, as always, in Puglia without your own car travelling very extensively can be difficult. The Low Murge

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Easily reached from Barletta or Bari, the main town of the Low Murge is ANDRIA, a large agricultural centre at its best during its Monday-morning market – otherwise it has little to entice you to stay, though the agriturismo A Lama di Luna (T 0883.569.50510, W www.lamadiluna.com; 4) 10km outside town on the road to Canosa di Puglia, may well tempt you. Serene, minimalist, but very comfortable rooms occupy an eighteenth-century masseria on an organic farm producing olive oil and fruit. Sheets are unbleached cotton, soaps are natural olive oil, and you breakfast on jams of organic fruit and wood-baked bread. There is also a good-sized swimming pool, set among a vast olive grove where some of the trees are over a thousand years old, and free use of mountain bikes. There is no restaurant, but a weekly party takes place on Wednesdays when owner Pietro makes pizza in a wood-ﬁred oven. Otherwise, eat at the very ﬁne A Antichi Sapori (T 0883.569.529) on the main road, 3km away in Montegrosso, where the emphasis is on ﬁne local produce: expect to pay around €35 per head including wine. Despite its lack of appeal today, Andria was a favourite haunt of Frederick II, who was responsible for the major local attraction, the Castel del Monte, 17km south – the most extraordinary of all Puglia’s castles and one of the ﬁnest surviving examples of Swabian architecture (daily: March–Sept 10.15am–7.45pm; Oct–Feb 9.15am–6.45pm; ticket office closes 30min earlier; €3). A comune-sponsored shuttle bus service runs from the train station in Andria to the castle every hour (50c). Begun by Frederick in the 1240s, the castle is a high, isolated fortress built around an octagonal courtyard in two storeys of eight rooms. A mystery surrounds its intended purpose. Although there was once an iron gate that could be lowered over the main entrance, there are no other visible signs of fortiﬁcation, and the castle may have served merely as a hunting lodge. Nonetheless, the mathematical precision involved in its construction, and the preoccupation with the number eight, have intrigued writers for centuries. It’s argued the castle is in fact an enormous astrological calendar, or that Frederick may have had the octagonal Omar mosque in Jerusalem in mind when he designed it; yet, despite his recorded fascination with the sciences, no one really knows the truth. There is only one record of its use. The defeat of Manfred, Frederick’s illegitimate son, at the battle of Benevento in 1266 signalled the end of Swabian power in Puglia; and Manfred’s sons and heirs were imprisoned in the castle for over thirty years – a lonely place to be incarcerated.

Around 45km south of Bari (and reachable by FAL train), ALTAMURA is the largest town in the High Murge, originally a ﬁfth-century-BC Peucetian settlement – you can still see some parts of the old town. Given its many historical layers, it’s perhaps appropriate that Altamura is home to one of southern Italy’s best archeological museums (Mon–Fri 8.30am–7.30pm, Sat & Sun 8.30am–1.30pm; €2) at Via Santeramo 88. The collection here traces the history of the people of the Murge from prehistory to late medieval times, with plenty of exciting ﬁnds from all over the peninsula. Altamura’s most striking feature is its Duomo, a mixture of styles varying from Apulian-Romanesque to Gothic and Baroque. Take a look, too, at the tiny church of San Niccolò dei Greci on Corso Federico di Svevia; built by the Greek colonists in the thirteenth century, it housed their Orthodox religious ceremonies for more than four hundred years. Some 12km west, not far from the border with Basilicata, lies GRAVINA DI PUGLIA – a fortiﬁed town clinging to the edge of a deep ravine. During the early barbarian invasions the locals took refuge in the caves along the sides of the gully, a move that seems to have paid off until the arrival of the Saracens, who promptly massacred every cave-dwelling inhabitant. Under the Normans, the shattered town settled down to a quieter life as a ﬁefdom of the wealthy pope-producing Orsini family, whose emblem – an enormous spread eagle – is all over town. In the dilapidated old quarter, the cave-church of San Michele delle Grotte (closed to the public), a dark, dank affair hewn out of the rock, holds bones that are said to be the remains of victims of the last Saracen attack, almost a thousand years old. The Museo Ettore Pomarici Santomasi (Tues–Sun 9am–1pm & 4–7pm; W www .fondazionesantomasi.it; €3) at Via Museo 20 contains archeological ﬁnds including Roman coins, Bourbon arms and uniforms as well as sixteenth- and seventeenthcentury paintings, but more engaging is the reconstruction of San Vito Vecchio, another cave-church, set up on the ground ﬂoor with some remarkable thirteenthto fourteenth-century frescoes.

| Down the coast from Bari

The High Murge

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Southeast of Andria (but best reached by hourly bus from Molfetta), the old centre of RUVO DI PUGLIA is an attractive stop, with a quiet, timeless atmosphere. In the autumn, the pavements of the old town are strewn with almonds, spread out to dry in the sun. Just across from the tourist office on Via Vittorio Veneto 48 (Mon–Sat 9am–noon & 5–9pm, Sun 9am–noon; T 080.361.5419), the Museo Jatta in Piazza Bovio (Mon–Wed 8.30am–1.30pm, Thurs–Sat 8.30am–7.30pm, Sun 8.30am–1.30pm, W www.palazzojatta.org; free) houses a dusty collection of local copies of ancient Greek pottery as well as some beautiful originals, including a ﬁfth-century-BC crater depicting the death of Talos. Ruvo’s thirteenth-century Duomo, tucked into the tightly packed streets of the town’s old quarter, is also well worth a look. Its beautiful portal is guarded by animated griffins balancing on fragile columns, with a staggering amount of decoration on the outer walls, a ﬁne rose window and arches that taper off into human and animal heads.

Down the coast from Bari The coast south of Bari is a craggy stretch, with rock-hewn villages towering above tiny sandy coves. Just ten minutes by FS train from Bari (or bus #12 from Piazza Aldo Moro), TORRE A MARE is one of the easiest escapes from the city, situated on a rocky ledge high above two large caves. Being so close to Bari, the village can become quite crowded, but there will be fewer people around another

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| Down the coast from Bari 818

twenty minutes on, at POLIGNANO A MARE, which, despite a newfound popularity, remains fairly low-key. It’s a small port with a whitewashed medieval centre sprinkled with bars, souvenir and focacciarie shops, perched on the edge of the limestone cliffs, and where people head for on a Sunday to watch the waves crashing against the rocks or to sunbathe on the clifftops. If you don’t have a car, it is best reached by train, although there is a bus service, run by FSE, from Largo Ciaia in Bari. If you’d like to stay, head for the appealing Covo dei Saraceni, Via Conversano 1/A (T 080.424.1177, W www.covodeisaraceni.com; 4 ), which sits right above the rocks and has comfortable rooms – some with large balconies and private terraces – and a restaurant with panoramic views, which offers residents a 50 percent discount. Foodies wanting to splash out should not miss a meal at A Da Tuccino a few kilometres north along the coast at Via Santa Caterina 69/F (T 080.424.1560, W www.tuccino.it; closed Sun eve and Mon in low season, in summer closed Mon). Arguably the region’s best seafood restaurant, it is known for its crudi (raw ﬁsh); the menu varies according to the catch of the day and booking is essential.

Egnázia and Fasano Some 8km beyond Polignano a Mare lies the commercial port of MONÓPOLI, with a nice old town and a charming Duomo, but not much else to see. There’s more interest south, at the site of the ancient city of Egnázia (daily 8am to 1hr before sunset; W xoomer.alice.it/egnazia; €3 including museum). If you don’t have your own transport, it’s best reached by bus from Fasano train station (call or visit Fasano’s tourist office for timetable; Piazza Ciaia 10; T 080.441.3086; Mon, Wed, Fri 8am–1pm & 3–6.30pm). Right next to the seafront excavations, the water is tempting and clear, so bring swimming stuff and a picnic. Egnázia (also known as Gnathia) was an important Messapian centre during the ﬁfth century BC, fortiﬁed with over 2km of walls, large parts of which still stand in the northern corner of the ruined town – up to 7m high. It was later colonized by the Greeks and then the Romans (in 244 BC), who built a forum, amphitheatre, a colonnaded public hall and temples: one was dedicated to Syria, a popular early Roman goddess, who, according to Lucian, was worshipped by men dressed as women. Horace is known to have dropped by here to see the city’s famous altar, which ignited wood without a ﬂame. With the collapse of the Roman Empire, the city fell to subsequent barbarian invasions, and was almost completely destroyed by the Gothic king Totila in 545 AD. A community struggled on here, seeking refuge in the Messapian tombs, until the tenth century when the settlement was ﬁnally abandoned. There’s an on-site museum (same hours and ticket as above) housing an array of artefacts, including examples of the distinctive earthenware for which the ancient town was prized. Places to stay in nearby Selva di Fasano include a hill-station of villas in lush gardens above the town of Fasano. Try La Silvana, Viale dei Pini 87 (T 080.433.1161, W www.lasilvanahotel.it; 2 ), an unpretentious hotel with large, simply decorated rooms, balconies and plenty of terrace space. The restaurant serves good, genuine local food, and if you opt for half-board it will cost €55 per person. Those seeking luxury may prefer La Peschiera, on Contrada Losciale in Monópoli’s Localitá Capitolo (T 080.801.066, W www.peschierahotel.com; 9 ), a Bourbon-era ﬁsh hatchery converted into a ﬁne resort whose rooms have enchanting sea views and private beaches. Alternatively, inland, the stylishly glamorous A Masseria Torre Maizza, Contrada Coccaro, between Fasano and Savelletri (T 080.482.7838, W www.masseriatorremaizza.com; 9 ), has spacious rooms in outbuildings once used to house passing pilgrims. There’s an Aveda spa, a chic heated pool, a Moroccan-inﬂuenced roof terrace and a restaurant that

Meandering lazily down towards the Valle d’Itria, the Ferrovia Sud-Est train passes through some of the prettiest of Puglia’s landscapes. Olives gradually lose ground to vineyards and cherry and peach orchards, neatly partitioned by dry-stone walls. The barren limestone terrain of Le Murge swallows rivers whole producing a landscape cut by deep ravines and pitted with caverns and grottoes. About 40km out of Bari are the Grotte di Castellana, a spectacular set of underground caves (mid-March to early Nov, Dec 26–Jan 6 & Feb carnival time tours hourly 9am–1pm & 2.30–7pm; rest of year tours 9.30am–12.30pm; €15 for a full 3km/2hr tour, €10 for 1km/50min tour excluding Grotta Bianca; T 0804.998.211, W www.grottedicastellana.it). A lift takes you down to the largest of the caverns, La Grave, 60m below ground. From here, there’s over 1km of strangely formed caves to explore, ending in the most impressive of them all, the Grotta Bianca – a shimmering sea of white stalagmites and stalactites. To get to the caves, simply follow the signs from the Castellana-Grotte station, from where it’s about 500m to the grotto.

| The FSE line: Castellana Grotte to Martina Franca

The FSE line: Castellana Grotte to Martina Franca

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serves sophisticated Pugliese food. Facilities also include a golf course within the grounds, cooking classes, a beach club 4km away, and the chance to sail on the hotel’s 14m yacht. For eating, don’t miss the chance to sample spanking-fresh raw ﬁsh at the A Pescheria Due Mare (T 080.482.9161), a stylish glass cube on the seafront in the little resort of Savelletri, where the local ﬁshmonger serves raw seafood and deftly cut slivers of ﬁsh, accompanied by a glass of chilled white or sparkling wine. Foodies should also head inland to the Zona Lamapecora outside Monópoli, to watch mozzarella and other Pugliese cheese being made at Caseiﬁcio Lamapecora (T 080.442.0843; Mon–Sat 8am–1pm & 4–8pm, Sun 8am–1pm): don’t leave without sampling the burrata, Puglia’s decadent version of mozzarella, stuffed with cream.

Alberobello Beyond Putignano, traditional trulli (see box below) dominate the landscape. If you want to take a closer look, head for ALBEROBELLO. Around 1500 trulli pack the narrow streets; most are south of Largo Martellotta in the Rione Monti zone, the

Trulli Curious-looking trulli are dotted throughout the Murge area of Puglia. Cylindrical, whitewashed buildings with grey conical roofs tapering out to a point or sphere, they are often adorned with painted symbols. Unique to Puglia, their ancient origins are obscure, but are probably connected to feudal lords who made people working their land build their houses without mortar so they could easily be pulled down if tax inspectors came round. The thick walls insulate equally against the cold in winter and the summer heat, while local limestone is used to make the two-layered roofs watertight. Most trulli have just one room but when more space was needed, a hole was simply knocked in the wall and an identical structure built next door. Although originally they were both dwellings and storehouses, these days they’re being snapped up as holiday homes, and some are rented out as self-catering or B&B accommodation.

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| The FSE line: Castellana Grotte to Martina Franca 820

rest to the north in Rione Aia Piccola. You can pick up a town map from the tourist office in Piazza Sacramento (Easter to Oct Mon–Sat 10am–8pm, Sun 10am–1pm & 3–8pm; Oct to Easter Mon–Sat 10am–6pm, Sun 10am–1pm & 2.30–6pm; T 080.432.6030). Inevitably, a rampant tourist industry has grown up around the cute conical stone huts, and the proprietors of trulli given over to displays of woolly shawls, liqueurs and other souvenirs practically drag in passers-by and don’t let them go until they’ve bought something. If you want to complete the trulli experience by staying in one, check in at B&B Pietradimora (T 080.432.4370 or 349.565.0106, W www.pietradimora.it; 3), a beautifully restored set of trulli on Via Monte San Marco 28. Breakfast is served on a panoramic terrace. Another central option is the spick-and-span Lanzillotta at Piazza Ferdinando IV 33 (T 080.432.1511, W www.hotellanzillotta.it; 2), which has just opened a restaurant and bar in a stone wine-cellar below the hotel. If you prefer to self-cater, Trullidea rents basic trulli in town and in the countryside for short- and long-term stays (T 080.432.3860, W www.trullidea.it; accommodation for two from around €95 per night). They can also arrange cooking courses and excursions. For food in Alberobello, L’Aratro, Via Monte San Michele 25–29 (T 080.432.2789), set inside a trullo, is a stellar option, rigorously sourcing all its ingredients locally, and serving a dizzying number of vegetable and cheese antipasti and local specialities including that Pugliese staple, purè di fave e cicoria (pureed broad beans and wild chicory) and cavatelli con cime di rapa (pasta with turnip tops and fried breadcrumbs). Just a few kilometres south, LOCOROTONDO, which owes its name to its circular layout, has good views over the whole area, speckled with red- and greyroofed trulli in a sea of vines and olive and almond trees. It’s a great place to wander for an hour or so. Finally, on the road between Locorotondo and Ostuni, CISTERNINO rejoices in the nickname “La Vera” (the Real Thing) and is a marvellous antidote to touristy Alberobello: it’s a pleasure to wander around the tiny, whitewashed alleyways of its old town. A series of open-air concerts are held in the main square, Piazza Vittorio Emanuele, between late June and September: among them is Pietre che Cantano (“The Stones that Sing”; W www.pietrechecantano.com).

Martina Franca Trulli are still plentiful by the time you reach MARTINA FRANCA, a surprising town with a jubilant Baroque sensibility and a lively passeggiata at weekends. It is reputed to have been founded by settlers from Táranto fed up with constant Saracen attacks during the tenth century, but it was the Angevin prince of Táranto who bolstered the community in the early fourteenth century by granting it certain tax privileges. The town derives its name from this – franca meaning duty or stamp. Today its medieval core is adorned with some of the most subtle and least overbearing examples of architecture from the Baroque period you’ll ﬁnd. Through the Porta di Santo Stefano, which marks the entrance to the old town, Piazza Roma is dominated by the hulking Palazzo Ducale, which dates from 1688, and is now the town hall. A handful of rooms are open to the public most mornings (Mon–Fri) – most of them smothered in classical eighteenthcentury Arcadian murals. Just across the square, the narrow Via Vittorio Emanuele leads right into the old town and Piazza Plebiscito, fronted by the undulating Baroque facade of the Chiesa di San Martino, an eighteenth-century church built on the site of an earlier Romanesque structure, of which only the campanile survives. From adjacent Piazza Immacolata you can either bear left down Via Cavour, with its Baroque palazzi and balconied streets, or wander further into the old town; the roads running around the edge of the surviving fourteenth-century

town walls offer an excellent panorama of the Valle d’Itria, with its neatly ordered ﬁelds dotted with trulli. Southern Italy’s top performing-arts festival, the Festival della Valle d’Itria (T 080.480.5100, W www.festivaldellavalleditria.it), takes place in Martina Franca in late July/early August every year. On a par with the Maggio Musicale in Florence (see p.454), the festival is mainly operatic, with performances in the appropriately grand Palazzo Ducale. It’s a congenial and unpretentious event, though tickets aren’t cheap; they’re available from the festival office in the Palazzo Ducale.

| Táranto

There’s a spasmodic bus service from the FSE train station up to the centre of town; otherwise you’ll have to walk for ﬁfteen minutes – go left out of the station and up Viale della Libertà to Corso Italia, which leads to the old town centre. The tourist office on Piazza XX Settembre 3 ( June–Sept Mon–Sat 9am–1pm & 4.30–7pm; Oct–May Mon–Sat 9am–1pm, Tues & Thurs also 4.30–7pm; T 080.480.5702) has good maps of the town. If you want to stay, try the comfortable Dell’Erba, Via Táranto 68 (T 080.430.1055, W www.hoteldellerba.com; 3 ), with a swimming pool, restaurant and plenty of sun terraces. For more atmospheric and cost-effective accommodation, however, consider renting a traditional apartment in the old town. Studios work out at €37.50 per person per night including breakfast and daily cleaning for two sharing (no minimum stay); contact Villaggio In at Via Arco Grassi 8 (T 080.480.5911, W www.villaggioin.it). An excellent and moderately priced restaurant is La Cantina, Vico 1 Lanucara 12 (T 080.480.8031; closed Mon), signposted off Piazza XX Settembre, the main gate to the old town – try the bucatini con fagioli (pasta with beans) or agnello con fave e cicoria (lamb with broad beans and wild greens): you can eat and drink comfortably for around €30 a head. Or go straight for the town’s best pizzas and abundant antipasti at La Panca (T 080.480.1629; closed Mon), Via Principe Umberto 51, just off Piazza M. Immacolata in the old town. For reﬁned, upscale Pugliese cooking, you might want to splash out at Ritrovo degli Amici on Corso Messapia 8 (T 080.483.9249; closed Sun eve & Mon), just off Piazza XX Settembre on a little, ﬂower-ﬁlled patio. If you’re after snacks or picnic food, try Fratelli Ricci, the rosticceria at Via Cavour 19 (closed Mon), which sells wonderful hot foods and sandwiches.

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Practicalities

Táranto Straddling two harbours and set beside the deep blue waters of the Ionian, TÁRANTO is an unpretentious city with a thriving ﬁsh market, fabulous restaurants and a top-notch archeological museum. Known as Taras to the ancient Greeks, the port became the ﬁrst city of Magna Graecia (the area of southern Italy colonized by the Greeks) and was renowned for its oysters, mussels and dyes – the imperial purple was the product of decayed Tarentine molluscs. Resplendent with temples, its acropolis harboured a vast bronze of Poseidon that was one of the wonders of the ancient world. Sadly, little remains of ancient Taras or even of later Roman Tarentum, although their monuments and relics are on display in the city’s magniﬁcent museum. After being destroyed by the Romans, Táranto was for years little more than a small ﬁshing port, its strategic position on the sea only being recognized in Napoleonic times. It was home to the Italian ﬂeet after Uniﬁcation, and consequently heavily bombed during World War II; attempts to rejuvenate the town have left its medieval heart girdled by heavy industry, including the vast Italsider steel plant that throws its ﬂames and lights into the skies above.

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| Táranto

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Finding your way around is easy. The city divides neatly into three distinct parts: the northern spur is the industrial area, home of the steel works and train station. Cross the Ponte di Porta Napoli and you’re on the central island containing the old town. The southern spur holds the modern city centre (Borgo Nuovo), the administrative and commercial hub of Táranto, linked to the old town by a swing-bridge.

Arrival, information and accommodation

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| Táranto

Buses generally arrive at and depart from Porto Mercantile, except FS connections with Metaponto and Potenza, which arrive at Piazza Duca d’Aosta, just outside the train station. The old town is a 400m walk from the train station; while most buses from the station run to Corso Umberto I in the modern city. Get off just after Palazzo di Uffici and you’re close to the tourist office on Corso Umberto I 113 (Mon–Fri 9am–1pm & 4.30–6.30pm, Sat 9am–noon; T 0994.532.392, W www.viaggiareinpuglia.it). Timetables for city buses are posted in the AMAT office just around the corner on Via d’Aquino 21(T 0994.526.785, W www.amat .taranto.it). Táranto isn’t really geared up for tourism, and it is only recently that accommodation options have opened in the old town, and even these are mostly aimed at business people, teachers and students. On Piazza Fontana, just as you enter the old city, the youth hostel, Ostello La Locanda (T 099.476.0033, W www.ostello lalocanda.it) has beds in single and triple rooms and dorms from €20 per person. Facilities include internet access, a sun terrace and a laundry for guest use. There is also an Indian restaurant downstairs. Alternatively, the B&B Buonanotte Margherita, on Piazzetta San Francesco (T 349.295.8959; 2 ), has two spick-and-span rooms with balconies and a living room with tea-making facilities and a small fridge, while Hotel Akropolis, Vica I Seminario 3 (T 099.470.4110, W www.hotelakropolis .it; 4 ), is a modern-style hotel with fourteen rooms in an old building: it’s aimed more at business travellers than tourists, though it has a picturesque wine bar in an ancient corn-store underground.

The City In Greek times the island holding the old town wasn’t an island at all but part of the southern peninsula, connected by an isthmus to the southern spur. The Greeks raised temples and the acropolis here, while further south lay the residential districts. There’s one extant fragment of ancient Táranto – the Doric columns, re-erected in a corner of Piazza Castello, which once adorned a temple of Poseidon. The rest of the tiny island is a mass of poky streets and alleyways tunnelling between massive palazzi, buttressed by scaffolding seemingly to prevent the whole place from falling down. The Aragonese Castello (now owned by the navy) at the southern end surveys the comings and goings of warships and ﬁshing boats. The narrow canal they slide through, between the city’s two inland “seas”, was built in the late nineteenth century, on the site of the castle’s old moat. “Seas” is a bit of a misnomer: the Mare Piccolo is really a large lagoon, home to Táranto’s famous oysters and the Italian navy; and the Mare Grande is actually a vast bay, protected by sea walls and the offshore fortiﬁed island of San Pietro. At the heart of the old town lies the eleventh-century Duomo, which once did duty as a mosque – dedicated to Táranto’s patron saint, Cataldo (Cathal), a seventh-century Irish monk who on returning from a pilgrimage to the Holy Land was so shocked by the licentiousness of the town’s inhabitants that he decided to stay and clean the place up. His remains lie under the altar of a small chapel. As for the rest of the church, restoration has stripped away most of the Baroque alterations, and fragments of a Byzantine mosaic ﬂoor have been revealed. A few blocks away, check out the city’s ﬁsh market, on Via Cariati, a lively affair where the best of the local catch is displayed at the crack of dawn. The Borgo Nuovo

It’s a short walk across the swing-bridge to Táranto’s modern centre or Borgo Nuovo – though this, like Bari’s, has limited charms, its wide streets laid out on

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a grid pattern that forms the focus of the city’s passeggiata, around piazzas Vittoria and Archita. Nearby, the Villa Peripato was the place for the Tarentini to take their early-evening stroll at the beginning of the last century, but today the city’s gardeners seem to be ﬁghting a losing battle with the ponds and undergrowth. The only real attraction in this part of town – and it’s a gem – is the beautifully lit and displayed collection of the Museo Archeologico Nazionale on Piazza Cavour (daily 8.30am–7.30pm; W www.museotaranto.it; €5), which offers a fascinating insight into the splendour of ancient Taras. The work of the goldsmiths of Taras is a particular highlight, all delicately patterned and ﬁnely worked in gold ﬁligree. Several ﬁnds from Greek tombs are also worth a look, including a tiny terracotta model of Aphrodite emerging from the sea (dated end of fourth, early third century BC).

| Northwest of Táranto

Eating and drinking Don’t leave Táranto without eating at the trattoria known universally as “Da Ugo al Orologio” that has been serving ﬁsh at rock-bottom prices for over seventy years. Its official name is Trattoria Ugi Bari, the official address, Largo San Nicola (T 099.460.8736), but just look for the clock tower off Piazza Fontana, and you’ll be there. Wine costs €2 a litre, antipasti and primi cost €3, secondi €5, and a four-course meal including wine, fruit and amaro (a digestive liqueur), €15. There’s not much choice, with no written menu, and you sit at long shared tables with families, ﬁshermen and bank clerks, but the ﬁsh is straight from the sea and freshly cooked. It is open for both lunch and dinner, and closed Saturday evening and Sunday. A rather more reﬁned longstanding trattoria in the new town, Al Gatto Rosso, Via Cavour 2 (T 099.452.9875; closed Mon), delivers friendly service, excellent antipasti and inventive pasta dishes along with classics such as linguine with local clams. Caffè Tarentum on Via Anﬁteatro 97 serves excellent coffee and typical almond-based sweets like mustazzueli as well as savory snacks (closed Tues).

Northwest of Táranto

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Inland and northwest of Táranto, the scenery changes dramatically, with gorges and ravines marking a landscape that’s closer to that of Basilicata than Puglia. At ﬁrst glance, MASSAFRA, about 15km from Táranto (regular trains and FSE buses from Porto Mercantile), appears the kind of unprepossessing shabby dustblown town you drive through as quickly as possible. However, it’s split in two by a ravine, the Gravina di San Marco, that is lined with grottoes dating mainly from the ninth to the fourteenth centuries. Many contain cave-churches, hewn out of the rock by Greek monks and decorated with lavish frescoes. All such sites in Massafra are visitable only by guided tours arranged with the tourist office at Piazza Garibaldi (Mon–Fri 10am–12.30 & 3.30–5.30pm; T 099.880.4695 or 338.565.9601). The Santuario della Madonna della Scala is built onto an earlier cave-church; a Baroque staircase runs down to the eighteenth-century church, which features a beautiful fresco of a Madonna and Child, dating from the twelfth to the thirteenth centuries; more steps lead down to an eighth-century crypt. The nearby Cripta della Buona Nuova houses a thirteenth-century fresco of the Madonna and a striking painting of Christ Pantocrator. About 200m away, at the bottom of the ravine, is a mass of interconnected caves known as the Farmacia del Mago Greguro, now in a pretty pitiful state but once used by the medieval monks as a herbalist’s workshop.

Bríndisi and around

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Across the peninsula, 60km east of Táranto on the opposite coast, lies BRÍNDISI, once a bridging point for crusading knights and still a town that makes its living from people passing through. The natural harbour here, the safest on the Adriatic coast, made Bríndisi an ideal choice for early settlers. In Roman times, the port became the main crossing point between the eastern and western empires, and later, under the Normans, there came a steady stream of pilgrims heading east towards the Holy Land. The route is still open, and now Bríndisi – primarily – is where you come if you’re heading for Greece from Italy. On arrival, you may well think that the entire town is full of shipping agents: this, when all is said and done, is the town’s main business. But even if you’re leaving the same night you’ll almost certainly end up with time on your hands. You could just while away time in a bar or restaurant in the old town – it is pretty compact and, although it isn’t brimming with ancient monuments, has

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Ferries to Corfu, Patras, Igoumenitsa, Kefallonia & Zante

EATING & DRINKING Escosazio L’Orabeffa Pasticceria Principe Trattoria Pantagruele

| Bríndisi and around

Airport

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a pleasant, almost oriental ﬂavour about it, and a few hidden gems tucked down its narrow streets. If you decide to stay, Bríndisi’s youth hostel is a fun place to base yourself for day-trips to the beach, Ostuni or the Torre Guaceto, a lovely nature reserve for biking and swimming.

Arrival and information

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| Bríndisi and around

Bríndisi’s airport (T 080.580.0200, W www.seap-puglia.it), served by Ryanair from Stansted, is 7km from the city centre. A regular urban bus runs to the Stazione Centrale every thirty minutes (€0.80), taking ten minutes. There are also buses from the airport direct to Lecce’s City Terminal (see p.830); the service is run by COTRAP – tickets cost €5 (sold on board) and the journey takes forty minutes. Arriving by ferry from Greece leaves you at Costa Morena, a couple of kilometres southeast of town; a shuttle bus run by the port authority links this with the town centre, dropping off and picking up at the intersection of Corso Garibaldi and Lungomare Regina Margherita, in front of the maritime station. Marozzi buses link the town with Rome and Miccolis buses connect it with Naples; these buses arrive at, and depart from, Viale P. Togliatti, a continuation of Viale A. Moro in the new part of town. There are other daily departures to Siena, Florence and Pisa. Central Bríndisi is small enough to walk around, but for transport around town, lots of buses run down Corso Umberto and Corso Garibaldi. The tourist office is at Lungomare R. Margherita 44 (April–Oct daily 9am–1pm & 3–11pm; Nov–March Mon–Fri 9am–1pm & 3–8pm, Sat 9am–1.30pm; T 0831.523.072, W www.interradibrindisi.it). The website is excellent, with lists of B&Bs, villas and hotels, places to eat and things to do.

Accommodation

The best accommodation option is the friendly A youth hostel, 2km out of town in Casale at Via Brandi 2 (T 338.323.5545, W www.hostelcarpediem.it; €13), with no lock-out, a lively atmosphere, and free shuttles to the port and airport. You can rent a bed for the day (€5.50) if you’ve got a night departure, with full use of the facilities, including hot power-showers, laundry, bike rental, book exchange, bar and pool table. Alternatively, you can ask the tourist office about B&Bs, or try BB Malvasia (T 349.380.0689, W www.malvasiabrindisi.altervista .org) on Vico Scalese, behind Piazza della Vittoria, which has two comfy rooms with shared bathrooms above a cultural association with a bar, where you can listen to blues and browse the bookshelves as you drink. It’s particularly good for families or a group of friends (you can even bring a pet) and they offer an airport shuttle service for €5. Otherwise try the more conventional Hotel Regina, Via Cavour 5 (T 0831.562.001, W www.hotelreginaweb.com; 2 ), a decent three-star with plain air-conditioned rooms down a quiet side-street 150m from the station.

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The top of Scalinata Virgiliana (Virgil’s Steps) marks the end of the ancient Via Appia, which ran all the way from the Porta Capena in Rome. Two columns stood here for years – useful navigation points for ships coming into harbour. The single column that remains has been restored, as has the area around it; the other column was carried off to Lecce. A marble tablet in the corner of the piazza marks the supposed site of the house in which Virgil died, in 19 BC. Via Colonne, with its seventeenth- and eighteenth-century palazzi, runs up to the Duomo – a remarkable building, if only for the fact that it’s survived seven earthquakes since

| Bríndisi and around

Eating and drinking

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its construction in the eleventh century. Just outside is the Museo Archeologico Provinciale (Tues–Sat 9.30am–1.30pm, Tues also 3.30–6.30pm; free). In addition to ornaments and statues from the necropolises that lined the Via Appia in Roman times, several rooms accommodate bronzes recovered in underwater exploration nearby, as well as ﬁnds from the excavations at Egnázia (see p.818). Follow Via Tarentini from here and bear left for the tiny round church of San Giovanni al Sepolcro, an eleventh-century baptistry. It’s a little dark and decrepit inside, but you can just make out some of the original thirteenth-century frescoes. And there are more frescoes, this time a century older, in the Chiesa di Santa Lucia, just off Piazza del Popolo. Bríndisi’s most important medieval monument is further aﬁeld: the Chiesa di Santa Maria del Casale (ring for entrance at the gate; free) – a 3km bus ride towards the airport from town; take bus #4, from the train station, and ask the driver when to get off. Built by Philip of Anjou at the end of the thirteenth century, it’s an odd mixture of styles: the facade is adorned with an Arabic mass of geometric patterns, worked in two shades of sandstone, and the portal has an almost Art Deco touch to it. The stark interior is rescued from gloom by some fourteenth-century frescoes depicting frightening allegorical scenes relating to the Last Judgement, a vision of hell designed to scare the living daylights out of the less devout.

It’s not difficult to eat and drink cheaply in Bríndisi: Pasticceria Principe on Via Cesare Battisti has delicious pastries as well as excellent savoury snacks and there are plenty of alimentari and pizza al taglio shops in town. You can have a memorable meal at the popular and highly regarded Trattoria Pantagruele, Via Salita di Ripalta 1 (T 0831.560.605; closed Sat lunch, Sun & two weeks in Aug), which serves excellent Pugliese dishes and local seafood: expect to pay around €30 per person. Carnivores who want to ﬁll up before a long ferry ride shouldn’t miss the reasonably priced grilled meats, sausages and local specialities at Escosazio (T 0831.563.971) at 15 Piazza Mercato. The name literally means, “I’ll leave, full”, and you will – the raw materials are laid out for you to take your pick, so it’s not a place for the squeamish. If you fancy a night out, try L’Orabeffa (T 340.260.8301; open till 3am; closed Tues) towards the castle at Via Marconi 33, a pub with live music, or the Malvasia’s (see opposite) cultural association.

Listings Airport information Papola Casale T 080.580.0200, W www.seap-puglia.it. Car rental at the airport: Avis T 0831.418.826; Europcar T 0831.412.061; Maggiore T 0831.418.155; Sixt T 0831.418.083; Thrifty T 0831.413.711. Police station T113.

Post ofﬁce Main ofﬁce on Piazza della Vittoria (Mon–Fri 8am–6.30pm & Sat 8am–12.30pm). Taxis T0831.597.901 and 0831.597.503. Train station Train information (number functions in Italy only) T892.021; timetables and prices on Wwww.trenitalia.it.

Around Bríndisi: Torre Guaceto Just 15km northwest of Bríndisi is a beautiful nature reserve and protected marine area known as Torre Guaceto. You’ll need a car to get here, but it’s a lovely spot for biking through maquis and olive groves, scuba diving over small reefs of coral and sea grass, or chilling out on the sandy beach; to visit, book at the Serranova visitor’s centre (T 0831.989.885, W www.riservaditorreguaceto.it).

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Ferries to Albania and Greece A staggering array of agents sell ferry tickets to Albania and Greece, and you should take care to avoid getting ripped off. Ignore the touts clustered around the train station in high season, who specialize in selling imaginary places on nonexistent boats, and always buy your ticket direct from the company’s ofﬁce or an approved agent. Discovery, Via Provinciale per Lecce 27 (T0831.573.800, Wwww.discoveryto.it), is a reliable general agent which also sells onward ferry tickets to the Cyclades and Crete.

Routes

PUGL I A

| Ostuni

A variety of routes operate most of the year, although frequency is reduced outside the peak season – roughly deﬁned as between mid-July and mid-August. Services – including some high-speed catamarans – sail to Vlore in Albania and Corfu, Igoumenitsa, Patras, Cephallonia and Zante in Greece. Visit Wwww.aferry.it for timetables and prices. As a rule, nearly all the reliable companies sail in the evening.

Prices and boarding Prices vary considerably according to season but there’s not much difference between the companies: you’ll be looking at a one-way, high-season fare to Corfu/ Igoumenitsa for around €65 per person on deck or €71 for a reclining seat (cabins are available for a higher charge), from €65 extra for a car; in low season prices almost halve. High-speed links are more expensive. There are reductions of around 10–20 percent on the return fare if you book with the same company you travel out with and discounts if you have an InterRail, EuroRail, or Italian rail pass (high-season supplements apply). Check on purchase whether your ticket includes embarkation tax – currently €5 per person or per car. Leaving Italy, you should arrive at least one hour – preferably two in high season – before your ship’s departure. Allow enough time to get there by the free shuttle bus from Stazione Maríttima (the journey takes around 20min but ﬁnd out beforehand when the shuttles depart) and make sure that any stopover you are making on the way to Patras is clearly marked on your ticket. It’s advisable to stock up on food and drink in Bríndisi’s supermarkets, as there are the inevitable mark-ups once on board.

Ostuni OSTUNI, 40km northwest of Bríndisi (35min by train), is known as “the white city” and is one of southern Italy’s most stunning small towns. Situated on three hills at the southernmost edge of Le Murge, it was an important Greco-Roman city in the ﬁrst century AD. The old centre spreads across the highest of the hills, a gleaming white splash of sun-bleached streets and cobbled alleyways, dominating the plains below. Seven kilometres away, the popular sandy coastline has Blue Flag beaches.

Arrival, information and accommodation

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The train station is some way out of town, though there’s a connecting bus service. Pullman buses to and from Bríndisi terminate outside the sports centre, from where there are buses into the town centre, or it’s around a twenty-minute walk. The tourist office is at Corso Mazzini 8 just off Piazza della Libertà ( July & Aug daily 8am–2pm & 4.30–10.30pm; Sept–June daily 8am–2pm & 3.30–8pm; T 0831.301.268), in the same building as InfoPoint, a very helpful information service run by an association of local owners of hotels, B&Bs and restaurants, that can give advice on accommodation, eating and excursions (daily 10am–1pm & 3–8pm; T 339.508.8036, W www.borgostuni.it).

The maze of well-preserved winding streets provides a fascinating amble, and there are some exceptional views – particularly from Largo Castello over the woods to the north. Bits of cavorting Baroque twist out of unexpected places, including an ornamented eighteenth-century obelisk, 21 metres high, dedicated to Saint Oronzo, which stands in Piazza della Libertà (or Piazza Saint Oronzo) on the southern edge of the old town. This is the focal point on summer Saturday nights for hordes of people who drive in from the countryside, meet their friends and pack out the bars and cafés. From there, follow the Via Cattedrale uphill towards the Duomo, taking note of the monumental palaces and churches that trim the ascent. One of these, the Chiesa di San Vito, houses an ethnography museum, which has been closed for a long restoration. When it eventually reopens, check out the highlight, “Delia”, the skeleton of a young pregnant woman found in a crouched position, her bones decorated before burial. At the top of the hill, the ﬁfteenth-century church is nestled into a charming piazza dominated by the Palazzo Vescovile and the Palazzo del Seminario.

| Ostuni

The Town

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Ostuni’s proximity to the coast makes budget accommodation tricky to ﬁnd in July and August. Of the B&Bs, you could try Nonna Isa, next to the public gardens at Via Alﬁeri 9 (T 347.616.297, W www.nonnaisa.it; 1 ) or Bienbi, Via G. Pinto 11 (T 393.930.4223, W www.bienbi.it, 1 ) round the corner, with ﬁve serene rooms: meals featuring local produce can be arranged on request. Alternatively, Tre Torri is a cheap, central hotel at Corso Vittorio Emanuele 298 (T 0831.331.114, W www .paginegialle.it/hoteltretorri-br; 2 ). There are also several excellent agriturismo places out of town: ﬁve minutes’ drive from Ostuni on the SS16 towards Fasano at the km874 point, Il Frantoio (T 0831.330.276, W www.masseriailfrantoio.it; 5 ) is a traditional white farmhouse in 72 hectares of olive grove, with eight rooms furnished with family furniture and heirlooms. The estate produces organic olive oil, fruits and vegetables. Rates include access to selected lidos on nearby beaches.

Eating and drinking Whatever you do, don’t miss the chance to time-travel to the otherwise nameless A Osteria, Via B. Cairoli 1, just off the main Corso, which looks way older than its sixty years, like a corner of a Novecento ﬁlm set. Wine (€1.20 a litre) is doled out with old zinc measures and served in ceramic jugs, and you can eat traditional dishes such as broth (€2.50), tripe (€3) or mixed fried ﬁsh (€6). Ostuni also has some excellent expensive restaurants, and if money is no concern, you’ll be spoilt for choice. The elegant A Osteria Piazzetta Cattedrale (T 0831.335.026), opposite the cathedral, uses locally-sourced ingredients to great creative effect – try the stunning cestino di crepe con crema di cavolﬁori, pancetta crocante e vincotto di Primitivo, a crepe basket ﬁlled with cauliﬂour puree and crisp bacon and drizzled with sweet wine must – in a constantly evolving seasonal menu, and has a degustazione menu at €30 per head excluding wine. If that’s beyond your budget, you can lunch on a selection of seven antipasti for €12 per head. Alternatively try the much-feted A Osteria del Tempo Perso, signposted up in the old town at Via G. Tanzarella Vitale 47 (T 0831.304.819; closed all day Mon & lunchtimes in summer). Antipasti include lightly battered zucchini ﬂowers stuffed with ricotta and mint, while among the primi, the adventurous could opt for orecchiette con sugo di asino (ear-shaped pasta with donkey sauce). The slightly more expensive Porta Nova, Via G. Petrarolo 38 (T 0831.338.983; closed Wed in winter; signposted from near the cathedral), set in a ﬁfteenth-century stone city gate overlooking olive groves and the sea, is a ﬁne place for ﬁsh and shellﬁsh, with a following for

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its raw ﬁsh, as well as marvellous dishes such as black troﬁe served with turnip tops, baby squid, anchovy and toasted breadcrumbs.

Lecce and Salento PUGL I A

| Lecce and Salento

Some 40km south from Bríndisi, Baroque Lecce is a place to linger, with a few diverting Roman remains and a wealth of ﬁne architecture scattered about an appealing old town. It’s also a good starting point for excursions around Salento, the name given to the very tip of Italy’s heel extending from just south of Ostuni to Santa Maria di Leuca. Here the landscape begins to take on a distinctive Greek ﬂavour, a mildly undulating region planted with carob, prickly pear and tobacco. The Adriatic coast is pitted with cliffs topped with ruined watchtowers, and rugged coves and caves trail right the way down to the southern cape. The hinterland, by comparison, is more barren, although again there’s a Greek feel to it, with tiny, sun-blasted villages growing out of the dry, stony, red earth and ﬂat-roofed houses painted in bright pastel colours.

Lecce The exuberant building styles on display in LECCE are the legacy of religious orders ( Jesuits, the Teatini and Franciscans) who came to the region at the end of the sixteenth century, bringing an inﬂux of wealth which paid for the opulent churches and palazzi that still pervade today’s city. The ﬂowery style of “Leccese Baroque” owed as much to the materials to hand as to the skills of the architects: the soft local sandstone could be intricately carved and then became hard with age. Arrival and information

Regional buses arrive at the City Terminal (north of Porta Napoli), and the train station. FSE and FS trains use the same station, 1km south of the centre at the end of Via Oronzo Quarta. Between mid-June and late September, Salento in Treno e Bus (T 0833.541.025, W www.salentointrenoebus.it) services depart from several places in town – including the City Terminal, Viale dell’Università and the FS station – and head to Otranto, Santa Maria di Leuca (via Gallipoli) and the seaside resort of Porto Cesareo, among other destinations. For transfers from Bríndisi airport, see p.826. The most helpful tourist office is on Via Libertini 76 (Tues–Sun 9am–1pm & 4.30–7.30pm; T 0832.245.497, W www.salento4you.it) near the Duomo. Accommodation

There is accommodation for all budgets in Lecce, including an appealing selection of boutique hotels and B&Bs. Otherwise, the tourist office can help you ﬁnd a reasonably priced private room in a historic building in the old town and on the outskirts (from around €60 per night); you could also search W www.abitalecce .it or www.caffelletto.it. Hotels

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Arco Vecchio Via Quinto Fabio Balbo 5 T0832.243.620 or 339.578.9621, Wwww.arco vecchio.com. Sprucely restored palazzo just off the very pleasant Via Paladini, with nine neat, contemporary, minimalist rooms, and, ideal for families or extended stays, a suite with a fully equipped

kitchen and its own terrace. Flat-screen TVs, satellite and wi-ﬁ. 2 Casa dei Mercanti Piazza Sant’Oronzo 44 T0832.277.299, W www.casadeimercanti.it. Nine newly renovated serviced apartments, smart and international in style, with glossy parquet ﬂoors and modern furniture overlooking Piazza Sant’Oronzo.

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| Lecce and Salento

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EATING & DRINKING Alle Due Corte Alvino Caffe Letterario Corte dei Pandolﬁ Cucina Casareccia La Torre di Merlino L’Ideario di Liberrimo Syrbar Villa della Monica

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sun terrace looking out over the city’s monuments. Rooms in Centro Storico are more upmarket and expensive, with tea-making facilities, and breakfast including local pastries is served on the premises. Guests at Azzurretta, breakfast at the ﬁne Cin Cin bar on Piazza Sant’Oronzo. In summer, the owner organizes occasional concerts and

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| Lecce and Salento

tastings of wine and local produce. Azzurretta 1 , Centro Storico 2 Hotel Patria Palace Piazza Riccardi T 0832.245.111, W www.patriapalacelecce.com. A smart, conventional hotel in an eighteenth-century palace near Santa Croce, aimed at business travellers and tourists wanting the security of four-star service and facilities such as minibars, Sky and a ﬁtness room. Rooms are all blue and gold, and give little sense of the historic building, the main concession to design being a Libertystyle lily motif. The ﬁve best rooms have private terraces, 17 rooms look onto Santa Croce, and guests have access to the roof terrace. Substantial discounts on website; 5 Malìa Via Paladini 33 T0832.307.573 or 329.571.663, Wwww.maliabb.com. Fabulous TV-free boutique B&B designed by owner-architect Laura Aguglia, and featured recently in UK style magazine Wallpaper. Heart of the B&B is a huge, elegant sitting room with a star-vaulted ceiling, parquet ﬂoor, a vast calico sofa, and an ample choice of art and design books and magazines to leaf through. Breakfast – fresh and dried fruit, bread from a wood-ﬁred oven, home-made jams and fresh pastries – is also served here. There are four rooms, each gorgeous, each different, each imaginatively lit, especially the romantic double with a four-poster bed designed by Laura. 3

Suite 68 Via Leonardo Prato 7 T0832.303.506 or 335.716.4922, W www.kalekora.it/suite68/home .asp. Six boho-chic rooms in a Baroque palazzo, featuring bold rugs and vivid silks, contemporary art by local artists, fabulous glass chandeliers by Lecce glassmaker Massimo Maci, and a blend of distressed and modern furniture, most striking of which is the maze bookshelf in the hall. All rooms have TV, minibar, and wi-ﬁ (at €2 per hour). Reception is open Mon–Fri 9am–1pm & 4–8pm. If you are arriving outside those times, call the mobile number in advance. 3 Villa de Giorgi Via S. Fili 110, Monteroni di Lecce T0832.327.065, W www.villadegiorgi.it. Set in an old turreted manor house surrounded by gardens dotted with fountains and sculptures, this charming B&B is just 7km southwest of the city in a quiet suburb. Breakfast is served in the garden in the summertime. March–Dec. 1

Campsite Namastè Via Novoli km4.5 T0832.329.647, Wwww.ostellolecce.it. A centre for yoga and alternative therapies, this campsite is accessible by #26 bus from Lecce train station, and is open year round. Rates start at €8 a night for a tent pitch, plus €5 per person, or €17.50 per person for a bungalow. There is a yoga hall, and the fruit grown in the grounds is certiﬁed organic.

The City

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Start at Piazza Sant’Oronzo, the hub of the old town, named after the ﬁrstcentury bishop of Lecce who went to the lions under Nero. His bronze statue lurches unsteadily from the top of the Colonna di Sant’Oronzo that once stood at the end of the Via Appia in Bríndisi. It reappeared here in 1666 to honour Oronzo, who was credited with having spared the town from plague ten years earlier. The south side of the piazza is taken up by the Anﬁteatro Romano, which probably dates from the time of Hadrian. In its heyday it seated 20,000 spectators; today it’s used for the Christmas nativity scene. Sadly, most of its decorative bas-reliefs of ﬁghting gladiators and wild beasts have been removed for safekeeping, and nowadays it looks rather depleted. Just behind the Piazza is another relic of Roman Lecce, the well-preserved Teatro Romano, the only one of its kind to be found in Puglia, with rows of seats and orchestra ﬂoor still remarkably intact. The ﬁnest and most ornate of Lecce’s Baroque churches is the Basilica di Santa Croce, just to the north, whose ﬂorid facade was the work of the local architects Zimbalo and Penna and took around 150 years to complete; its upper half is a riot of decorative garlands and ﬂowers around a central rose window. Head west from Piazza Sant’Oronzo along the bustling Via Vittorio Emanuele to Piazza del Duomo. Facing onto the square, the Seminario holds an impressively ornate well, with carved stone resembling delicately wrought iron. The balconied Palazzo Vescovile adjoins the Duomo itself, twelfth century in origin but rebuilt entirely in the mid-seventeenth century by Zimbalo. He tacked on two complex facades and an enormous ﬁve-storeyed campanile that towers 70m above the square.

Lecce’s bar and café scene is ﬂourishing, and evenings are especially busy as leccesi, eager to see and be seen, make the rounds of the city’s most popular watering holes and pastry shops during the ritual passeggiata. Eating out is a serious business. To rival mamma’s home cooking, restaurants have to offer ﬂawless local dishes made from traditional recipes. The cuisine is ﬁrmly seasonal, so look for artichoke dishes in the spring, cime di rapa (turnip tops) and other leafy greens in the winter, and recipes rich with aubergine and peppers in the summer. Cafés and bars Alvino Piazza Sant’Oronzo. In spite of a fancy new restoration that wiped away its old-world charm, Alvino still serves some of the city’s most astonishingly jewel-like sweet confections and savoury snacks. Sample their vast array of paste di mandorla (almond-paste cookies). Caffè Letterario Via G. Paladini 46. An arty little bookshop-café serving tasty snacks and drinks from 7.30pm–2am, with a DJ or live music usually on Wed or Fri nights. La Torre di Merlino Vico del Tufo 10. A wellstocked wine bar offering a spectacular selection of wines and cheese, as well as full meals, near Santa Croce. Closed Mon. L’Ideario di Liberrimo Via Vittorio Emanuele/Corte dei Cicala T 0832.245.524, W www.liberrima.it. Cool – if expensive – new wine bar and café linked to the Liberrimo bookshop next door. Salads, antipasti, and an abundant and elegantly presented aperitivo with nibbles including fresh ricotta, tiny pizze, crostini with artichokes and roast almonds. Eat inside to an accompaniment of jazz, or outside on the piazzetta. Syrbar Via Giuseppe Libertini 67/A, Piazza Duomo. A laidback café and eatery open from breakfast till late evening, with windows looking onto Piazza Duomo, though no outdoor tables as

| Lecce and Salento

Eating and drinking

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There is further work by Zimbalo in the Church of San Giovanni Battista (or del Rosario), by the Porta Rudiae in the southwest corner of town. The ornate facade and twisting columns front some extremely odd altars, while dumpy cherubim dive for cover amid scenes resembling an exploding fruit bowl. Heading left along Viale Gallipoli you reach the town’s Museo Provinciale (Mon–Sat 9am–1.30pm & 2.30–7.30pm, Sun 9.30am–1.30pm; free), gradually reopening now after years of closure. So far only the prehistoric selection is open, but its presentation – child-friendly, with replicas of graves, and reconstructions of scenes of prehistoric life – augurs well for the rest of the museum. If the Baroque trappings of the town are beginning to pall, you might want to check out the ﬁne Romanesque church of SS Nicolò e Cataldo (generally open mornings; free), a ten-minute walk north along Viale San Nicola from Porta Napoli. Built by the Normans in 1190, its cool interior reveals a generous hint of Saracen in the arches and the octagonal rounded dome. Little remains of the frescoes that once covered its walls, though an image of St Nicolò can be found on the south side, together with a delicately carved portal.

the bishop won’t allow it. A ﬁne place for breakfast, lunch or a light dinner nevertheless, with a daily vegetable soup, and a large choice of crostini served with inspired combinations of local cheeses, hams and salamis. Breakfast winners include a crostino with ricotta, orange marmalade, raisins and walnuts, and yogurt with honey and nuts. There is a huge range of teas, and on winter evenings you can warm up with a hot grog, of cognac infused with cinnamon and orange peel. Closed Mon in winter.

Restaurants Alle Due Corte Corte dei Giugni 1 T0832.242.223. Simple traditional Salentino dishes and mouthwatering antipasti draw locals and tourists alike. Try the taieddha (oven-baked potatoes, rice, tomatoes, onions and mussels) in summer. Closed Sun. Corte dei Pandolﬁ Piazzetta Orsini T0832.332.309, Wwww.cortedeipandolﬁ.com. Intimate place in a charming little piazza off Via Paladini, gaining a ﬁne reputation for creative twists on traditional dishes, and using only the freshest ingredients. Cucina Casareccia Via Col. A. Costadura 19 T0832.245.178. Be sure to call ahead for one of the dozen tables at this Leccese favourite known for its home-style cooking and atmosphere. The pasta is made on site and the accompanying

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sauces change according to the season – a rib-warming winter dish is ciceri e tria (pasta with chickpeas). The pezzetti di cavallo (horse stew), a Leccese speciality, is one of the city’s best. You should be able to eat and drink amply for €30 per head. Closed all day Mon & Sun eve.

Villa della Monica Via SS. Giacomo e Filippo 40 T0832.409.556. An elegant, but reasonably priced, ﬁsh restaurant in the new city renowned for its huge range of antipasti di mare. In summer you can sit in the gleaming, fountain-studded marble courtyard. Closed Tues.

Otranto and the southern cape PUGL I A

| Lecce and Salento

OTRANTO, a kasbah-like town nestling around a harbour, is only an hour by train from Lecce, set in an arid, rocky and windblown landscape, with translucent seas to swim in. The port overﬂows with tourists in August, when Otranto’s nightlife is at its peak, and the town is most entertaining, but the picturesque location and slow pace will reward visitors year-round, even if the number of gaudy souvenir shops detracts a little from the charm of its winding whitewashed lanes. Otranto’s history is decidedly grim. One of the last Byzantine towns to fall to the Normans in 1070, it remained a thriving port for Crusaders, pilgrims and traders. But in 1480 a Turkish ﬂeet laid siege to the town, which held out for ﬁfteen days before capitulating. It’s said that as a punishment the archbishop, on capture, suffered the indignity of being sawn in half, a popular Turkish spectacle at that time. Nearly 12,000 people lost their lives and the 800 survivors, refusing to convert, were taken up a nearby hill and beheaded. Otranto never really recovered, though the town does feature one glorious survivor of the Turkish attack inside its cathedral: an extraordinary mosaic ﬂoor. Arrival, information and accommodation

Note that the train station is a ﬁfteen-minute walk north of the centre, so you may want to arrange a pick-up with your hotel. The tourist office on Piazza Castello (daily 9am–1pm & 4–6pm, closed Sun; T 0836.801.436, W www.viaggiareinpuglia .it) has all the usual information, including where to rent bicycles and scooters. A variety of musical and theatrical events are held in Otranto throughout the summer, usually centred around the castle, along with an annual festival commemorating the “800 Martyrs” on August 13–15. For accommodation, your best bet is the light, modern Bellavista, Via Vittorio Emanuele 18 (T 0836.801.058, W www.hotelbellavistaotranto.it; 3), right in the centre of things near the beach and just outside the old town. Alternatively, the B&B Palazzo d’ Mori on the Bastione dei Pelasgi, with ten pleasant whitewashed rooms overlooking the bay (T 0836.801.088, W www.palazzodemori.it; April–Oct; 3 ) is another good choice in the historical centre. A bit further out, the Masseria Bandino on the road to Uggiano La Chiesa is a charming rural hotel set in an eighteenthcentury farmhouse (T 0836.804.647, W www.masseriabandino.it; 3 ) where you can dine on typical Salentino fare (half-board €80 per person). The Town

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Down a small alleyway just to the left of the castle is the town’s Romanesque Cattedrale di Santa Maria Annunziata (daily 7.30am–noon & 3–5pm; free). The marble-columned nave is adorned by an incredible multicoloured mosaic in stone. The central theme is the “Tree of Life”. Historical and animal ﬁgures are shown as a mix of myth and reality – Alexander the Great, King Arthur, the Queen of Sheba, crabs, ﬁsh, serpents and mermaids. The work of a twelfth-century monk, its rough simplicity provides a captivating picture, empowered by a delightful child-like innocence. The rose window was added in the ﬁfteenth century. Not far from the cathedral, the town’s Aragonese Castello (daily: 10am–1pm & 3–7pm; July & Aug 10am–midnight; €2) juts out into the bay, defending the

Eating and drinking

To the southern cape

From Otranto, all the way down to the cape at Santa Maria di Leuca, the coastline is steep and rugged. The unmissable journey along the winding road takes you past one spectacular view of sheer cliffs and blue sea after another. CAPO D’OTRANTO, 5km south of Otranto, is the easternmost point on the Italian peninsula, topped by a lighthouse and the rather desolate ruins of a seventhcentury abbey. This is the ﬁrst place in Italy to see the sun rise, and is a popular place to welcome in the New Year. On clear mornings there’s a commanding view across the straits – the mountains of Albania are visible about 80km away – and on seriously clear days they say you can even see Corfu, 100km away. Places to stay along this route include Camping Porto Miggiano (T 0836.944.303, W www.campingportomiggiano.it; March–Oct) a small, simple but beautiful campsite set among olive trees with steps leading down to a beach. It’s situated 16km from Otranto, just south of Santa Cesarea Terme; small bungalows are also available, and there’s a restaurant on site. In Castro Marina, the Hotel degli Ulivi (T 0836.943.037, W www.hoteldegliulivi.net; 2) has pleasant rooms with big balconies, and a restaurant with a view over the sea. If all this is giving you vertigo, head for Castro Town itself and hole up at the lovely B&B Il Giardino, Via Sant’Antonio 207 (T 340.603.5400, W www.ilgiardinonelsalento.it; 1 ), which has a large garden for breakfast or relaxing, and cooking facilities for guests. For truly transcendent accommodation, splurge at the Convento di Santa Maria in Costantinopoli B&B on Via Convento in nearby Maríttima di Diso just a few kilometres west (UK number only: T +44 773.636.2328, E [email protected]; 9 ). The sixteenth-century converted monastery and its four guest rooms (from around €400 a night) are ﬁlled to the brim with proprietor Lord Alastair McAlpine’s museum-worthy collection of African art and textiles. There isn’t really much to draw you down as far as SANTA MARIA DI LEUCA, a somewhat barren spot, with a scattering of Neolithic remains and an uninspiring marina. There are stunning views, however, from the belvedere at this once-supposed “end of the world” marked by the tiny church of Santa Maria Finibus Terrae. In fact, the cape isn’t really Puglia’s southernmost point: that distinction goes to the Punta Ristola, a little to the west. Nonetheless, this is a lovely place to rent a boat for the afternoon and swim in the sea caves along the coast: try Colaci Mare, Via Q. Ennio (T 0833.758.609, W www.colacimare.com), at the harbour. They arrange excursions

| Lecce and Salento

The crush of tourism has left Otranto with few excellent, and many overpriced, restaurants. Da Sergio on Corso Garibaldi 9 is an exception specializing in honest, local cuisine (T 0836.801.408; closed Wed in winter plus mid-Nov to mid-Dec & mid-Jan to Feb), with an average meal around €30. Alternatively, the air-conditioned selfservice restaurant Boomerang, at 13/14 Via Vittorio Emanuele II, by the park next to the beach, serves delicious, low-priced, simple meals, as well as fresh antipasti and pasta.

PUGL I A

harbour. Its walls incorporate fragments of Roman and medieval inscriptions, while Charles V’s coat of arms looms from its portal. Out on the southern edge of town is the cypress-tree-covered hill, where the survivors of the Turkish siege were beheaded. At the top of the hill, the sixteenth-century Chiesa di San Francesco di Paola holds the names of the victims, together with a vivid description of the terrible events of July 1480. On the Bastione dei Pelasgi, the newly restored Basilica di San Pietro e Paolo (same hours as cathedral; free) is one of the most important Byzantine monuments in the Salento. This tiny chapel has frescoes, some with Greek inscriptions dating from the tenth to the thirteenth centuries, including a Last Supper.

835

of the area’s grottoes starting at €12 per person and rent boats starting at €40 for a half day. You can get down this far, or at least as far as Gagliano del Capo, by train: it’s at the end of the FSE rail line, just 5km from the cape; the Salento in Treno e Bus service runs to the cape from Otranto (and from Lecce via Gallipoli or inland via Maglie).

The western peninsula: Galatina and Gallipoli PUGL I A

| Lecce and Salento

About half an hour down the rail line from Lecce, GALATINA is an intriguing Salentine town on the edge of an area known as Grecia Salentina, a key Greek colony in medieval times that has retained Greek customs and language up until the present. It’s an important centre of the Italian tobacco industry today, with much of the weed grown in the ﬁelds around. It’s also famed for being the centre of the tarantella (see box below) and for its excellent local wine. In the old part of town, the church of Santa Caterina di Alessandria (daily 9am–noon & 4.30–7pm; free) is also well worth a look for the stunning fourteenth-century frescoes that cover its interior. The tourist office at Via V. Emanuele II (Mon–Fri 10am–2pm; T 0836.569.984, W www.comune.galatina.le.it) will give the low-down on events surrounding the festa, which is gaining a higher proﬁle these days after years of discouragement by both the Church and the municipality; it also offers free bike rental (you’ll need to leave ID). The plush, elegant Palazzo Baldi, in a courtyard a few steps from the cathedral at Corte Baldi (T 0836.568.345, W www.hotelpalazzobaldi.com; 3 ), is the only central hotel, but there is an agreeable, central B&B: Saﬁ, Via Ottavio Scalfo 70/74 (T 0836.569.401, W www.saﬁbedbreakfast.it; 2), a Baroque townhouse 200m from the tourist office. As for eating and drinking, Il Covo della Taranta, Corso Garibaldi 13, four doors down from the church of San Paolo, is a reasonably

The dance of the spider

836

The small town of Galatina has long been a pilgrimage centre for tarantate – women (mostly) who have been “possessed” by the mythical spider of Puglia. Tarantism dates back centuries in this region, with the earliest known accounts of it appearing in manuscripts from the ﬁfteenth century. Victims believed that they had been bitten by the Italian tarantula, or the European black widow spider. After descending into a funk of symptoms that included vomiting and sweating, fear and delirium, depression and paranoia, the only cure was the rite of the tarantula, which involved trance-dancing to the local tarantella, or pizzica, for days on end. The pizzica musicians – typically a violinist, guitarist, accordion and tambourine player – would perform fast and feverishly, engaging the victim in a call and response ritual, until eventually they were released from their misery. The cult has continued to fascinate Salentines and others into this century, with the myth and music being both preserved and reinvented. St Paul, patron saint of the tarantate, is revered and celebrated to this day in Galatina and surrounding villages. On June 29, the feast day of Sts Peter and Paul, musicians, dancers, tarantate and tourists gather at the chapel of St Paul near Galatina’s cathedral in the early hours (around 4.30 or 5am) to pay their respects before the crowds arrive for the ofﬁcial early morning Mass. Today, pizzica music is enjoying a boom in the Salento and elsewhere. It’s worth timing your visit to coincide with the all-night music festival The Night of the Tarantula (La Notte della Taranta; Wwww.lanottedellataranta.it), held in late August at Melpignano, between Galatina and Otranto. Dances with Spiders by social anthropologist Karen Lüdtke (Berghahn Books, 2009) is a very readable account of the history of the ritual, and the resurgence of pizzica in recent years.

priced and lively pub/pizzeria/trattoria that serves lunch and dinner accompanied by occasional world-music jam sessions. At the moderately priced Il Borgo Antico, Via Siciliani 80, you can eat dishes such as home-made pasta and risotto with local prawns (T 0836.566.521; closed Wed). Gallipoli

PUGL I A

| Travel details

First impressions of GALLIPOLI (not the World War I battleﬁeld in Turkey) are fairly uninspiring. The new town sprouted on the mainland once the population outgrew its original island site in the eighteenth century, and all that remains of the once-beautiful Greek city (the Kale’ polis) is a rather weather-beaten fountain, which sits in the new town near the bridge. Over the bridge, things are more interesting: the old town itself is a maze of meandering and twisting whitewashed streets, with tiny tomatoes hanging on the walls to dry, providing a sudden blaze of colour alongside the ﬁshing nets. Only the Aragonese castle, which squats in one corner of the island, still retains an Italian air in the town. For accommodation, try Al Pescatore on Riviera C. Colombo 39 (T 0833.263.656, W www.al-pescatore.it; 3 ), an attractive hotel in the old quarter with some rooms overlooking the sea and a good restaurant (closed Mon in winter) serving homecooked seafood at moderate prices. Decent B&Bs include Palazzo de Tomasi, in the historic centre at Riviera A. Diaz 99 (T 380.505.3335, W www.salanitro.it; 2 ) and Salanitro, Strada Vicinale Patitari (T 347.600.8262, W www.salanitro.it; 2 ), at the town entrance when coming by autostrada from Lecce, just 350m from the sea; both are run by the same owner, who also has several apartments to rent. There’s a good campsite 5km to the north: La Vecchia Torre (T 0833.209.083, W www.lavecchiatorre.it; June–Oct) at Rivabella on the coast road to Santa Maria al Bagno. Other than Al Pescatore, a ﬁne place to eat in Gallipoli’s old quarter is Il Bastione, Riviera N. Sauro 28 (T 0833.263.836), where you can sample fresh ﬁsh in every way imaginable – raw, grilled, fried, baked, or cooked in salt – on a seafront terrace. Prices start at around €40 for a full meal including wine. Don’t miss the gamberi rossi crudi (raw red shrimp) ﬁshed off the coast of Gallipoli and simply seasoned with olive oil and pepper.

Travel details Trains (FS unless otherwise stated) Altamura to: Gravina (FAL, hourly; 10min). Bari to: Alberobello (FSE, 2 hourly; 1hr 30min); Altamura (FAL, 14 daily; 1hr); Andria (Ferrovia del Nord Barese, hourly; 1hr); Barletta (hourly; 55min); Bríndisi (hourly; 1hr 20min); Fasano (10 daily; 40min); Grotte di Castellana (FSE, at least hourly; 55min); Lecce (at least hourly; 1hr 30min–2hr); Locorotondo (11 daily; 1hr 40min); Martina Franca (11 daily; 1hr 50min); Matera (FAL, 14 daily; 85min); Molfetta (hourly; 30min); Ostuni (hourly; 1hr); Péschici (1 daily; 4hr); Polignano a Mare (hourly; 30min); Putignano (hourly; 1hr); Rome (6 daily; 4hr 40min); Ruvo di Puglia (Ferrovia del Nord Barese, hourly; 40min); Táranto (19 daily; 1hr 30min); Trani (hourly; 30min).

Bríndisi to: Fasano (hourly; 35min); Lecce (25 daily; 30min); Ostuni (24 daily; 25min); Táranto (15 daily; 1hr). Fóggia to: Bari (hourly; 1hr 30min); Barletta (hourly; 40min); Bríndisi (13 daily; 2hr 40min); Fasano (10 daily; 2hr 15min); Manfredonia (2 hourly; 30–40min); Molfetta (hourly; 1hr 5min); Ostuni (10 daily; 2hr); Péschici (5 daily; 2hr 20min); San Severo (approx hourly; 25min); Trani (hourly; 50min). Lecce to: Gagliano del Capo (FSE, 10 daily; 1hr 30min; FS, 1 daily; 2hr); Gallipoli (11 daily; 1hr); Otranto (FSE, 8 daily; 1hr 10min; FS, 2 daily; 50min); Rome (5 daily; 6hr 15min–10hr). San Severo to: Péschici (8 daily; 1hr 30min). Táranto Grottaglie (14 daily; 15min); Martina Franca (8 daily; 40min); Naples (3 direct trains daily; 4hr 35min).

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Buses

PUGL I A

| Travel details 838

NB: Bus services on Sun are drastically reduced. Bari to: Andria (11 daily; 1hr 45min); Barletta (3 daily; 1hr); Canosa di Puglia (3 daily; 75min); Molfetta (hourly; 40min); Naples (3 daily; 3hr); Rome (4 daily; 5hr); Trani (3–4 hourly; 1hr 5min). Fasano to: Martina Franca (12 daily; 20min); Egnázia (6 daily, more in summer; 20min). Fóggia to: Lucera (hourly; 30min); Manfredonia (12 daily; 50min); Monte S. Angelo (8 daily; 1hr 35min); San Severo (6 daily; 45min); Tróia (hourly; 40min); Vieste (5 daily; 2hr 45min). Lecce to: Gallipoli (approx hourly; 1–2hr); Otranto (8 daily; 1hr); Porto Cesareo (6 daily; 1hr); San Cataldo (8 daily; 30min); Santa Maria di Leuca (summer only, approx hourly; 1hr 45min). Manfredonia to: Bari (5 daily; 2hr 15min); Monte Sant’Angelo (hourly; 45min); San Giovanni Rotondo (12 daily; 40min); Vieste (5 daily; 2hr). Molfetta to: Ruvo di Puglia (hourly; 30min). Péschici to: Rome (2 daily; 6hr 40min); Vieste (12 daily; 45min).

Vieste to: Fóggia (5 daily; 2hr 45min); Rome (2 daily; 7hr 15min).

Ferries and hydrofoils Trémiti Islands to: Ortona (end June to early Sept 1 daily; 2hr); Térmoli (June–Sept 2–3 daily; 50min; ferries rest of year 2–3 weekly; 1hr 40min); Vasto (end June to early Sept 1 daily; 1hr); Vieste (June–Sept 1 daily; 1hr). Vieste to: Trémiti (June–Sept 1 daily; 1hr).

International ferries Bari to: Corfu (2 daily; 11hr); Durres/Durazzo, Albania (at least 1 daily; 9hr); Igoumenitsa (2 daily; from 9hr 30min); Patras (daily; from 16hr 30min); Rijeka via Dubrovnik, Korcula, Stari Grad and Split in Croatia (July & Aug 2 weekly; 32hr). Bríndisi to: Corfu (6 weekly; from 7hr); Igoumenitsa (6 weekly; 8hr); Cephallonia (13 sailings through July & Aug; 16hr); Patras (at least 1 daily in summer; 13hr).

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BAS I L I C ATA AND C AL ABRI A

Basilicata and Calabria

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TUNISIA

839

CHAPTER 15

✱ BAS I L I C ATA AND C AL ABRI A

✱

| Highlights

✱

Highlights

Matera Sliced by a ravine containing thousands of Sassi – cave dwellings gouged out of rock – Matera’s unique landscape never ceases to astonish. See p.845 Cripta del Peccato Originale, Contrada Petrapenta The best example of the region’s distinctive rock-hewn churches, with vibrant eighth-century frescoes inside. See p.848 Tropea promontory This region has it all – white sandy beaches, turquoise water, hills tumbling down to the coast and – in Tropea

town and Pizzo – two of the most beautiful old centres in Calabria. See p.853

✱

Bronzi di Riace Two extraordinary, seven-foothigh, bronze statues of Greek athletes housed in Reggio’s Museo Nazionale. See p.856

✱

Purple Codex, Rossano An illustrated manuscript from the sixth century with fascinating early depictions of the life of Christ. See p.863

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Capo Colonna A solitary Doric column marks the spot of what was the most important Greek temple on the Ionian coast. See p.865

840

Santa Maria dell’Isola, Tropea

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ore than any other regions of the Italian South, Basilicata and Calabria represent the quintessence of the mezzogiorno, the southern regions of Italy that are traditionally poor. After Uniﬁcation in 1861, the area was largely neglected and sank into abject poverty that was worsened by emigration. Conditions here were immortalized in Carlo Levi’s Christ Stopped at Eboli – a vivid account of his time in exile during the Fascist era in which he describes a South characterized by apathy, where malaria is endemic and the peasants’ way of life is deeply rooted in superstition. Things have improved, particularly in Basilicata, although tourism is yet to bring the riches found to the north in Puglia and Campania. In Basilicata, the greatest draw is Matera, whose distinctive Sassi – cavelike dwellings in the heart of the town – give it a uniquely dramatic setting. In the northern part of the region, Melﬁ and Venosa are bastions of medieval charm with important relics from the Byzantine and Norman eras. Of the region’s two coasts, the Tyrrhenian is most engaging, with spots like Maratea offering crystal clear water, a bustling harbour, and opportunities to discover remote sea grottoes. The Ionian coast is less charming, though worth a visit for its ancient sites in Metaponto and Policoro – ruins of the once mighty states that comprised Magna Graecia. While conditions in Basilicata have improved, Calabria remains arguably more marginalized than it was before Uniﬁcation. Since the war, a massive channelling of funds to ﬁnance huge irrigation and land-reclamation schemes, industrial development and a modern system of communications has brought built-up

BAS I L I C ATA AND C AL ABRI A

Basilicata and Calabria

Basilicata and Calabria transport Good transport services exist in Basilicata, but in hilly and coastal areas, a car is useful. Be warned that if you’re planning on driving, the roads tend to be narrow and provincial and you should allow more time than you think you’ll need. There’s a mine of information on transport and the region in general at Wwww.aptbasilicata.it. In Calabria there are reliable train services connecting the coastal towns, supplemented by regular buses. Again your own transport is critical for reaching the more remote mountainous interior.

841

Bari

Fóggia

BASILICATA & CALABRIA Melﬁ Venosa

Monte Vulture

PUGLIA

Naples

Altamura

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Sant'Eufemia-Lamezia Lamezia Airport

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SICILY

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Regional food and wine

| Potenza and around

sprawl to previously isolated towns such as Crotone – often hand in hand with the forces of organized crime. The ’Ndrangheta Maﬁa maintains a stranglehold across much of the region. Having moved on from kidnappings and localized extortion to become an international network that deals in heroin and supposedly even nuclear waste, these days it’s thought to be far more powerful and dangerous than the Neapolitan Camorra. Although unchecked development ﬁnanced by the ’Ndrangheta has marred parts of the coastline, resorts such as Scilla, Tropea and Capo Vaticano are still charming, and have become favourite hideaway resorts for discerning Italian and foreign visitors. The interior of the region is dominated by the mountain grandeur of the Sila and Aspromonte ranges, offering excellent hiking and rustic local cuisine.

BAS I L I C ATA AND C AL ABRI A

The cuisine of Basilicata, also known as the cucina lucana (Lucanian cuisine), derives from a poor tradition that depended heavily on preserving food, especially pork and fruit, which are dried, and vegetables, which are preserved in oil. Arab inﬂuence still pervades in the form of aubergines and desserts incorporating ﬁgs, almonds and honey. Basilicata is an important producer of durum wheat, which is used to make fresh pasta, rustic breads prepared in wood-ﬁred ovens, and friselle, stale bread softened with water, oil and tomatoes. Strong cheeses, like matured or smoked ricotta and aged caciocavallo are favoured. A rare breed of cows, the mucca podolica, grazes around Matera and the milk and meat they produce are wonderfully ﬂavourful. Calabria shares many culinary traditions with its neighbour. The trademark of Calabrian cuisine, however, is peperoncino, spicy chilli pepper, used liberally in many dishes, and thought to ward off illness and misfortune. Try the spicy sorpressata salami, ’Nduia, a hot peperoncino and pork fat spread. As in all southern cuisine, cheeses such as caciocavallo, mature provola and pecorino are ubiquitous. The cipolla rossa di Tropea is a sweet red onion used in rustic pies, meat dishes, and in sweet preserves called composte. For desserts, try mostazzolo, an almond cookie sweetened with honey or wine must, or anything containing bergamotto, a citrus fruit that grows along the south coast. Dried ﬁgs are a staple and can be found stuffed, dipped in chocolate, or simply arranged in braids or wheels. Cirò is the success story of Calabrian wine-making. Made from the ancient gaglioppo grape, it has been given some modern touches and now shifts bottles outside its home territory. Not surprisingly, given its far-south position, Calabria also turns out sweet whites such as Greco di Bianco. The aglianico grape makes a star appearance in Basilicata: Aglianico del Vulture is the region’s only DOC; it’s been dubbed “the Barolo of the south” for its complexity, late ripening and long maturation. Other wines worth trying are the sweet, sparkling Malvasia and Moscato.

Potenza and around Way up in the northwest of Basilicata, the regional capital, POTENZA, has suffered badly from the effects of earthquakes and war, which have robbed it of much of its historical heritage. However, there are three train stations and a bus terminal, and should you ﬁnd yourself obliged to stop here for a connection, a trip to the town’s major attraction, the Museo Archeologico Nazionale (Mon 2–8pm, Tues–Sun 9am–8pm; €2.50), next to the cathedral, is a good enough way to pass the time; it is home to the region’s most important collection of ﬁnds from the prehistory of Lucania (the Roman name for Basilicata), plus some well-preserved ceramics, terracottas and statuettes from Greek Metapontum.

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North of Potenza lie several towns from the Norman era with some good examples of their brand of hybrid architecture. All are connected by bus with Potenza, and most are on the main Potenza–Fóggia rail line.

Melﬁ

BAS I L I C ATA AND C AL ABRI A

| Potenza and around

North of Potenza on the SS93, on the far side of the imposing Monte Vulture (1326m), the historic town of MELFI was long a centre of strategic importance, taken by the Normans in 1041 and their ﬁrst capital in the south of Italy. Repeatedly damaged by earthquakes, the town’s formidable hilltop castle now contains a museum (Mon 2–8pm, Tues–Sun 9am–8pm; €2.50) housing prehistoric ﬁnds and objects from the Greek, Roman and Byzantine eras. The museum’s most celebrated item is an exquisitely carved Roman sarcophagus from the second century, showing the image of the dead girl for whom it was made, reclining on cushions, with ﬁve statuettes of gods and heroes on the sides. In the centre of town off Via Vittorio Emanuele II is the Duomo, originally twelfth-century but almost entirely rebuilt in 1700. After the 1930 earthquake, a Byzantine-style Madonna and Child fresco was brought to light, which you can see to the left of the altar; to the left of this is another Madonna, in her role as protector of the city – a copy of the original statue stolen from here in 1982. The cathedral’s campanile has miraculously survived the various cataclysms: the two black stone griffins symbolized the Norman hegemony in the region and are visible everywhere in Melﬁ, having been adopted as the town’s emblem. Behind the Duomo on Piazza IV Novembre, a former seminary houses a clean and roomy hotel, A Il Tetto (T 0972.236.837, W www.albergoiltetto.com; 1 ). You’ll ﬁnd an excellent restaurant-pizzeria a little way down from the cathedral at Via Vittorio Emanuele 29, the A Delle Rose (T 0972.21.682; closed Thurs), with outdoor seating in summer. The baccalà alla trainera – salt cod with peperoncino – is particularly delicious. All ﬁrst courses cost €9, and mains are €12, while for those on a tight budget there are pizzas or panini and chips with a drink for €6–8 (no pizza at lunch).

Venosa

844

If Melﬁ preserves the appearance of a dark medieval town, nearby VENOSA has an attractive airiness; a harmonious place surrounded by green rolling hills and neatly divided parcels of farmland. Known in antiquity as Venusia, it was in its time the largest colony in the Roman world, and much is made of the fact that it was the birthplace of the poet Quintus Horatius Flaccus, known to English speakers as Horace (65–8 BC). His supposed house lies off Corso Vittorio Emanuele past Venosa’s cathedral (by appointment T 339.480.7431; free), where one large room shows a reconstruction of his living quarters, with a bed and kitchen utensils. The town’s chief attraction is the Parco Archeologico (Mon–Wed 9.30am– 1.30pm & 3–6pm, Tues 3–6pm; €2.50), located just outside the centro storico at the bottom of the Corso. The complex consists of ruins from the Roman era including housing, shops and mosaics. The adjacent Abbazia della Trinità, a sprawling abbey begun in the eleventh century and used as the resting place of various Norman bigwigs including Robert Guiscard, is now in a state of partial ruin but the perimeter walls and some decorations survive. Finds from the park and church can be seen inside the Castello Ducale, in the main piazza at the top of Corso Vittorio Emanuele (same times and price as Parco Archeologico). The Corso also has an elegant B&B, the Orazio, at no. 136 (T 0972.31.135, W www .hotelorazio.it; 1 ).

Matera and around

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| Matera and around

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ACCOMMODATION Capriotti Italia Le Monacelle Locanda di San Martino Sassi di Matera

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MATERA

BAS I L I C ATA AND C AL ABRI A

The town of MATERA, in the interior of Basilicata, dates from the Middle Ages when Byzantine and Benedictine monks built rock-hewn churches and monasteries into what are now called the Sassi – literally “stones” – an intricate series of terraced caves. Later, farmers, seeking safety from invasions, also settled in the Sassi, fashioning their homes, stables and shops out of the rock, creating one of Italy’s oddest townscapes and its most signiﬁcant troglodyte settlement. During the Spanish Bourbon era wealthy Sassi dwellers were able to move out of the cave dwellings to the plain above, while the masses were left in abject squalor below. The unhealthy living conditions were recorded in Carlo Levi’s 1945 memoir Christ

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Convicinio di Sant’Antonio

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Stopped at Eboli, in which the author’s sister compared the Sassi to Dante’s Inferno, so horriﬁed was she by their disease-ridden inhabitants. During the 1950s twenty thousand people were forcibly removed from the Sassi and rehoused in modern districts in the new town. Nowadays it’s hard to picture the conditions that previously existed here; EU funds and private investments have poured in, and the area has been cleaned up and repopulated with homes, B&Bs, hotels, restaurants and workshops. In 1993, the city and its grotto-ﬁlled outskirts were declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and in 2003 Mel Gibson ﬁlmed his controversial The Passion of the Christ here. BAS I L I C ATA AND C AL ABRI A

Arrival and information

| Matera and around

Matera’s train station is on Piazza Matteotti and is served by the FAL line, linked to Altamura and Bari in Puglia and to Potenza and Ferrandina in Basilicata. SITA buses also stop here, connecting Matera to Miglionico, Montescaglioso, Policoro and Metaponto. Marino buses (T 080.311.2335, W www.marinobus.it), running twice daily from Naples, stop on the edge of town at the Matera Nord station, Villa Longo, connected to the centre by local buses (every 20–30min). Matera has no main tourist office – the task has been devolved to autonomous info-points scattered around the centre, the most useful of which is on Piazza Vittorio Veneto (daily 8.30am–1pm & 2.30–9pm; T 0835.314.359 or 346.094.7270), but any can help you with basic information and provide maps; the website W www.aptbasilicata.it is a useful resource.

Accommodation Apart from Maratea, Matera is the only place in Basilicata where you might have difficulty ﬁnding a room for the night – booking a week or so in advance is highly recommended. A lot of new B&Bs and some beautiful hotels have recently opened in the Sassi themselves, which are probably the most atmospheric places to stay – although of course the swish furniture, modern plumbing and decor would be unrecognizable to any former sasso dweller. Capriotti Piazza Duomo T 0835.333.997, Wwww.capriotti-bed-breakfast.it. Three tastefully decorated, light-ﬂooded rooms, each with its private entrance and own outdoor space, in the vaulted rooms of a restored sixteenth-century sasso close to the Duomo. No credit cards. 2 Italia Via Ridola 5 T 0835.333.561, Wwww .albergoitalia.com. Matera Piano’s most modern hotel, catering mostly to business travellers, where Mel Gibson and his cast stayed, and the best option if you don’t fancy sleeping in a cave. 3 Le Monacelle Via Riscatto 9/10 T 0835.344.097, W www.lemonacelle.it. Built into a former convent and conservatory, this small hotel near the Duomo also has hostel accommodation from €18 per person. 2

Locanda di San Martino Via Fiorentini 71 T0835.256.600, Wwww.locandadisanmartino.it. A lovely hotel in the Sassi built into a former carpenter’s workshop and a deconsecrated chapel. The rooms are beautifully furnished, fragrant and cool. 3 Sassi di Matera Via Civita 28, Sasso Barisano T0835.332.744, Wwww.sassidi matera.com. This place is really extraordinary: a beautifully styled hotel in the Sassi incorporating a honeycomb of cave-like, underﬂoor-heated rooms with state-of-the-art showers, Philippe Starck baths, and furnishings reclaimed from abandoned rural buildings. Breakfast and aperitifs are served in a former cave church, or on the terrace overlooking the gorge. It costs a fortune, but you’ll never forget it. 8

The Town 846

Most visitors to Matera head straight for the atmospheric Sassi, and understandably so, but Matera Piano – the “new” town above begun in the seventeenth century – is worthy of exploration, too, with a host of churches and a livelier feel.

The Sassi

| Matera and around

The Case Grotte

BAS I L I C ATA AND C AL ABRI A

Divided into two sections – Sasso Caveoso and Sasso Barisano – the Sassi district can be entered from a number of different points around the centre of town, some signposted, some not. Via Buozzi weaves through both zones and is a useful reference point, although you will need to leave it in order to penetrate the warren of chiese rupestri, or cave churches (all open daily, roughly 10am–6pm; free). Note that there’s no sun cover, ﬂights of steps are unavoidable, and you’d do well to take some water. To get the most out of the whole area equip yourself with an itinerario turistico and a map, both available from the various tourist offices, or take a tour (see box below). The most spectacularly sited church, Santa Maria de Idris, is perched on the conical Monte Errone that rises in the midst of the Sassi. Inside are frescoes dating from the fourteenth century. The most interesting interior is found in the Convicinio di Sant’Antonio. This former monastery complex of four interlinking thirteenth-century churches was turned into wine cellars in 1700 – look for the spouts for wine emerging from what appears to be an altar – and later into houses. Of particular interest are tombs in the ﬂoor converted into water tanks that demonstrate considerable ingenuity: the porous stone had to be waterproofed, and rainwater channelled into the tanks. Built on a rocky spur rising above the Sassi, the thirteenth-century Duomo retains a strong Apulian-Romanesque ﬂavour. Between the ﬁgures of Peter and Paul on the facade is a sculpture of the patron of Matera, the Madonna della Bruna. Every July 2, a painting of the saint is carried through the streets on a papiermâché ﬂoat. At the end of the day-long festivities, onlookers storm the ﬂoat and break it apart, believing the pieces offer protection and blessings. Below the Duomo in the Palazzo Pomarici, MUSMA (Tues–Sun: April–Oct 10am–2pm & 4–8pm; Nov–March 10am–2pm; €5) is a museum of contemporary sculpture appropriately set in rooms carved from the rock. Its permanent collection features works by Picasso, Pomodoro and Gio’ and there are regular temporary exhibits. For a fascinating glimpse of what life was like for the Sassi-dwellers, head for one of the four Case Grotte in various parts of the Sassi, including one near the Convicinio di S. Antonio, another on Via Fiorentini (usually open daily 9am–1pm & 3–6pm; around €1.50). Reconstructed inside a grotta and using original furniture, utensils and clothes, these give insights into how families with several children and livestock managed to live together in one-room cave dwellings. If you want to explore the caves and more chiese rupestri in the Parco della Murgia (T 0835.336.166, W www .parcomurgia.it) on the far side of the ravine, there are several entrances from SS7 northwest of Matera. The park is best seen with a guide – Ferula Viaggi (see box below) organizes excursions – who can lead you to some of the hundreds of hypogeums and rock-hewn churches in the park’s eight thousand hectares.

Sassi tours For access to parts of the Sassi you might miss on your own, you can join a two-hour guided tour – Ferula Viaggi, on Via Cappelluti 34 in the new town (T 0835.336.572, Wwww.ferulaviaggi.it), charges around €50 for groups of up to ﬁve in English (less in Italian). Alternatively, you can arrange tours in English or Italian of three of the chiese rupestri through Sassi Tourism at Via Lucana 238 (T 0835.319.458 or 338.237.0498, Wwww.sassitourism.it) for €15 per person. La Scaletta, a local cultural association, also arranges tours at variable prices (T0835.336.726, Wwww.lascaletta.net).

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The new town

BAS I L I C ATA AND C AL ABRI A

The centre of “new” Matera, built in the seventeenth century, is Piazza Vittorio Veneto, a large and stately square, which in the evening is given over to a long procession of shuffling promenaders. The materani take their evening stroll seriously, and the din of the crowds rising up out of this square can be like the noise from a stadium. Matera’s modern quarters stretch out to the north and west of here, but most of the things worth seeing are along the Via Ridola, and Via del Corso. Winding off from the bottom end of the piazza, the narrow Via del Corso leads down to the seventeenth-century church of San Francesco d’Assisi (daily 7.30am–noon & 4–7pm), whose ornate Baroque style was superimposed on two older churches, traces of which, including some eleventh-century frescoes, can be visited through a passage in the third chapel on the left. In the main church are eight panels of a polyptych by Bartolomeo Vivarini, set above the altar. From San Francesco, you can head to the bar-strewn Piazza del Sedile just above the Sassi or on to Via Ridola to admire the elliptical facade of the Chiesa del Purgatorio (daily 8.30am–12.30pm & 4–7pm), gruesomely decorated with skulls. Eating and drinking

| Matera and around

Thanks to the surge in tourism, there’s plenty of choice for eating in Matera. In spite of its close proximity to the sea, traditional Materan food is dominated by meat dishes. You’ll ﬁnd lots of cafés and bars around Piazza San Pietro Caveoso and along Via Buozzi in the Sassi or near Piazza Vittorio in Piano. Camera Club Via S. Biagio 13 T 335.109.9603. In a set of caves on the edge of the Sassi near Piazza Vittorio, this watering hole prepares delicious panini and light meals, accompanied by cold beer. There is an outdoor seating area in the evening. Open from 9pm until late; closed Mon. Il Borghese Via Lucana 198 T0835.314.223. Frequented by locals, this restaurant has great antipasti and typical lucana dishes such as cavatelli con peperoni cruschi (pasta with sundried peppers) and agnello grigliato (grilled lamb). Fixed-price menus cost €27 and €30. Closed Wed except Aug. Il Terrazzino Vico San Giuseppe 7 T0835.334.119. Enjoy the view over the Sassi

at this atmospheric spot, over a meal of ovenbaked orecchiette al tegamino (with local sausage, tomatoes and mozzarella), or la pignata, a dish of oven-roasted lamb with vegetables and cheese. There’s a tourist menu priced at €15; eating à la carte should cost €20–25. Closed Tues and two wks July. Lucanerie Via S. Stefano 61 T0835.332.133. This cheerfully decorated trattoria offers some of the best and most abundant antipasti misti in town, but save room for specialities like tortino di formaggio di capra (a creamy goat’s cheese dessert). Meals from around €25 a head. Closed Sun dinner & Mon.

The Cripta del Peccato Originale and Montescaglioso

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Some 14km south of Matera in CONTRADA PETRAPENTA, the Cripta del Peccato Originale (Crypt of Original Sin; Tues–Sun tours at 9.30am, 11am, 12.30pm, 3.30pm, 5pm & 6.30pm; T 320.535.0910, W www.artezeta.it; €8) is lauded as the “Sistine Chapel of cave churches”. Inside, late eighth-century frescoes depict surprisingly dynamic Old Testament scenes, saints, and angels on a white background embellished with tendrils of red ﬂowers. Note that you need to book by phone in order to visit; tours last around an hour. Twenty kilometres southeast of Matera and served by buses from the town, the hilltop village of MONTESCAGLIOSO was once a Greek settlement and is now the site of the magniﬁcent eleventh-century Benedictine abbey of San Michele (daily 10am–1pm & 3–7pm, 3–5pm in winter; €4 includes guided tour; closed Mon afternoon), commanding great views over the Bradano valley. You could easily spend a few hours here exploring the town’s winding backstreets. For food, head to Caveosus on Via Chiesa Maggiore 1 (T 0835.201.912; closed Tues)

where a delicious home-cooked meal will cost €15. If you want to stay, L’Orto di Lucania on SP175, 3km west of Montescaglioso (T 0835.202.195, W www.orto dilucania.it; 2 ) is an agriturismo with a wonderful restaurant (booking essential). The rooms and apartments are well kitted out and there’s a pool and lovely grounds with fruit trees.

Basilicata’s Ionian coast

Metaponto

The Town

Metaponto today is a straggling, amorphous place, comprising train station, museum, ruins, and modern apartment buildings. Arriving at the station, you’re in Metaponto Borgo. The Museo Archeologico Nazionale (Mon 2–8pm, Tues–Sun 9am–8pm; €2.50), at Via Aristea 21, is a short walk north. The exhibits are mainly ﬁfth- and fourth-century-BC statuary, ceramics and jewellery, and there’s a small but fascinating section on the new insights revealed by the study of ﬁngerprints on shards found in the artisans’ quarter. The tourist office ( June–Sept daily 9am–1pm & 4–7pm; T 0835.745.606, W www.prolocodimetaponto.it) is nearby on Piazza Giovanni XXIII. From the Borgo, follow Via di Apollo 500m east to the entrance of the Parco Archeologico (daily 9am to 1hr before sunset, but opens 2pm Mon; free; check opening at T 0835.745.327), which has the remains of a theatre and a Temple of Apollo Licius. The latter is a sixth-century-BC construction that once possessed 32 columns, but you need some imagination to picture its original appearance. In a better state of preservation, the Tavole Palatine (same times), or Temple of Hera, is a few kilometres northwest where the main SS106 crosses the River Bradano. With ﬁfteen of its columns remaining, it is the most suggestive remnant of this once mighty state. Between June and August, buses leave from the train station and head to the Parco Archeologico and Tavole Palatine; enquire at the tourist office or station for schedules.

| Basilicata’s Ionian coast

The most extensively excavated of the Greek sites, and one of the few places of any real signiﬁcance on the Ionian coast of Basilicata, is at METAPONTO, an important road and rail junction connecting the coastal routes between Táranto and Reggio with the interior of Basilicata – to Potenza by train and Matera by bus. Metapontum was settled in the eighth century BC and owed its subsequent prosperity to the fertility of the surrounding land – perfect for cereal production (symbolized by the ear of corn stamped on its coinage). Pythagoras, banished from Kroton, established a school here in about 510 BC that contributed to an enduring philosophical tradition. The city’s downfall came as a result of a series of catastrophes: absorbed by Rome, embroiled in the Punic Wars, sacked by the slaverebel Spartacus, and later desolated by a combination of malaria and Saracen raids.

BAS I L I C ATA AND C AL ABRI A

A leisurely thirty-minute drive from Matera, Basilicata’s Ionian coast from Metaponto to Policoro consists of a mountainous interior backing onto a seaboard punctuated only by holiday resorts, a plethora of campsites – overﬂowing in the summer months – and some notable historical sites. Of these, the most signiﬁcant are connected with the periods of Greek occupation, the most recent of which was that of the Byzantines, who administered the area on and off for ﬁve hundred years.

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Lido di Metaponto

Some 3km south of Borgo, LIDO DI METAPONTO has sandy, well-equipped beaches, numerous campsites and a handful of hotels. Of the campsites, Camping Internazionale on Viale delle Nereidi Grecia (T 0835.741.916, W www.village internazionale.com) is small but clean, right opposite the beach, and has bungalows as well as pitches for tents and campers. The best-value hotel is the modern Kennedy at Via Ionio 1, about 1km from the station, off the Lido road (T 0835.741.960, W www.hrkennedy.it; 2 ). It has some apartments as well as rooms, and may be half-board only in high season. BAS I L I C ATA AND C AL ABRI A

Policoro

| Basilicata’s Tyrrhenian coast

There’s a fabulous collection of antiquities at the newly renovated Museo Nazionale della Siritide, 25km down the coast, just behind the village of POLICORO on Via Colombo 8. Buses from the bus station in the centre of the village stop a ﬁfteen-minute walk from the museum (Wed–Mon 9am–8pm, Tues 2–8pm; €2.50), which contains clay ﬁgurines and jewel-bedecked skeletons, among other items. The artefacts were unearthed in the area between the Sinni and Agri rivers, in its time one of the richest areas on this coast and site of the two Greek colonies of Siris and Heraclea. The latter was where Pyrrhus, king of Epirus, ﬁrst introduced elephants to the Romans, and, although winning the ﬁrst of two battles in 280 BC, suffered such high losses that he declared another such victory would cost him the war – so bequeathing to posterity the term “Pyrrhic victory”. The ruins of Heraclea are just behind the museum and although in a poor state, they’re worth a wander. For food, A Pitty is a terriﬁc, if oddly named, ﬁsh restaurant in Piazza Dante near the bus terminal (closed Mon Oct–May).

Basilicata’s Tyrrhenian coast The northern stretch of Basilicata’s Tyrrhenian coast is the most visited part of the entire region (Matera is a close second), its sheer cliffs and rocky coves refreshingly unspoilt by the holiday industry. The obvious stop here is Maratea, hemmed in by the mountains and offering some ﬁrst-rate beaches that get overcrowded in summer.

Maratea

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MARATEA’s chief allure is its coastal villages – Acquafredda, Cersuta, Fiumicello, Porto, Marina and Castrocucco – which stretch for 35km along a beautiful rocky coastline. Most of the action – and accommodation – is in or around the little seaside area of Fiumicello, 5km north of Maratea Paese (the inland part of Maratea), though the chic elite who have colonized much of the area prefer to be seen in the bars and restaurants of Marina di Maratea, directly below Maratea Paese – if nothing else, a pleasant place to stroll around and gawp at the yachts. The whole area is well endowed with sandy beaches, including those at Fiumicello and Acquafredda; most are well signposted, but don’t hesitate to explore the less obvious ones. The coast is also home to ﬁfty or so grottoes, most accessible only by boat; enquire at the tourist office (see opposite) for boat rental agencies. If you fancy some exercise, try climbing up to Monte San Biagio (624m), the highest point above Maratea. The peak is dominated by the Redentore, an enormous marble Christ symbolically positioned with its back to the sea, looking towards the mountains of the interior. Opposite the statue, and looking

as if it were about to be crushed under the giant’s feet, is an eighteenth-century church, the Santuario di San Biagio, dedicated to the town’s patron saint. On the second Sunday of May, a statue of the patron saint is carried up the hill in a large procession. Practicalities

BAS I L I C ATA AND C AL ABRI A

| Calabria’s Tyrrhenian coast

Most trains stop at the main Maratea station, at the bottom of Maratea Paese, from where it’s a ﬁve-minute minibus or taxi ride (or a 20-minute walk) to Fiumicello. There are also stations at Acquafredda and Marina di Maratea. SITA runs buses along the coast and to other towns in Basilicata year-round and there is a minibus service running between mid-June and mid-September (roughly hourly; buy tickets on board) that connects Marina di Maratea, Fiumicello and Maratea Paese in that order. The tourist office is on Piazza del Gesù in Fiumicello ( July & Aug daily 8am–2pm & 4–8pm; Sept–June Mon & Thurs 8am–2pm & 3–6pm, Tues, Wed, Fri & Sat 8am–2pm; T 0973.876.908, W www.aptbasilicata.it). Accommodation can be hard to come by at any time, and in high season is often expensive, with many hotels requiring half board during the peak period. To avoid this, you may do better to rent a room – ask for a list from the tourist office. The most distinctive hotel in Maratea Paese is La Locanda delle Donne Monache, Via C. Mazzei 4, sited in an elegantly renovated eighteenth-century convent (T 0973.876.139, W www.locandamonache.com; April–Oct; 5 ). The more functional Fiorella, at the top of the main Via Santa Venere on SS18 (T 0973.876.921; 2 ), is a spacious and basic hotel, open all year round. Further along this same road at Via Rasi 4/C, B&B Laino (T 0973.876.506 or 328.975.7216, W www.beblaino.it; 4 ) has six rooms, an apartment and a small pool. There are dozens of restaurants in the area; most along the coast serve ﬁsh and/ or pizza and are open May to October and weekends-only the rest of the year. Some of the best are in Fiumicello, where, signposted off Via Santa Venere, El Sol’s pizzas and seafood dishes, such as mussels and swordﬁsh, generally pull in a big local crowd (T 0973.876.928). Il Sacello at La Locanda delle Donne Monache (see above) prepares the best in local cuisine, both land- and sea-based – try the linguine con baccalà e peperoni cruschi (linguine with cod and fried pepper ﬂakes).

Calabria’s Tyrrhenian coast The northern stretch of the Tyrrhenian coast in Calabria is peppered with holiday complexes that crowd the ﬂat littoral. There are some attractive places to break the journey, notably the towns of Diamante, Belvedere and, further south, Paola. Following the coast down, the main SS18 runs alongside the railway line, though the frequent trains don’t always stop at smaller places. From the Savuto River down to Reggio, the SS18, autostrada and main rail line all run parallel along the coast, apart from the stretch of the Tropea promontory. The plain that stretches east from here, the Piana di Sant’Eufemia, is the narrowest part of the Calabrian peninsula, much of it reclaimed only in the last hundred years from malarial swamp: the mosquitoes remain but they no longer carry the disease. Lamezia has Calabria’s main airport (T 0968.414.333, W www .sacal.it), mainly used for domestic ﬂights, while Sant’Eufemia-Lamezia is the rail and road junction for Catanzaro and the Ionian coast. Heading south on the highway you begin a slow ascent on the long viaduct that is one of the engineering feats of the Autostrada del Sole, the views growing more inspiring as it rises above the coast to the high tableland of the Tropea promontory.

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Diamante and Belvedere

BAS I L I C ATA AND C AL ABRI A

On a small promontory jutting into the Tyrrhenian, DIAMANTE has a lively seafront promenade and narrow whitewashed lanes harbouring moderately priced ﬁsh restaurants. Most relaxed is the Taverna del Pescatore (T 0985.81.482; closed Thurs) at Spiaggia Piccola (beyond the jetty), with outside seating and views over the small port – expect to pay around €40 for a full meal, excluding drinks. If you want to stay, try the Riviera Bleu on the seafront at Via Poseidone 8 (T 0985.81.363, W www.hotelrivierableu.it; April–Oct; 3 ), a modern place with a nice open-air restaurant and direct access to the beach. Belvedere Marittimo, some 10km further down the coast, overlooks its unexceptional marina from a spur a little way inland. It’s an imposing and elegant town, full of greenery and having little of the air of neglect typical of Calabria’s older centres. At the top, an impressive castle stands guard, originally a Norman construction but rebuilt under the Aragonese, whose coat of arms can be seen above the main gate. The inside has been gutted, however, and it’s closed to the public. Down in Belvedere Marina, the best place to eat is D&D on the Lungomare (T 0985.84.697; closed Tues mid-Sept to mid-June), a restored old warehouse with outside seating, which serves pizzas baked in a wood-ﬁred oven alongside such specialities as home-made gnocchetti with shellﬁsh); a full meal will set you back around €30.

| Calabria’s Tyrrhenian coast

Paola About 40km further down the coast, the sizeable town of PAOLA is an important rail and road junction for Calabria’s interior, and the site of the Santuario di San Francesco di Paola, in a ravine above the town. Not to be confused with Francis of Assisi, this St Francis spent most of his life here in Paola and, as Calabria’s principal saint, is venerated throughout the south. People visit the shrine at all times of year, but particularly during the week leading up to the May 4 festa. There are a few reasonably priced hotels around the station by the sea, but Paola’s bargain is the Casa del Pellegrino San Francesco di Paola, off the SS18 coast road above the town and just outside the Santuario itself, aimed at pilgrims but open to all (T 0982.611.457, W www.hotelsanfrancescodipaola.it; 1 ). There are also a couple of decent places to eat near Paola’s central piazza: the Eureka, Via del Cannone 27 (T 0982.587.356; closed lunchtime & Tues), a trattoria with outdoor seating in summer which does good ﬁsh from around €10, and Le Arcate (T 0982.585.377; closed Mon in winter), a pizzeria at Via Valitutti 9.

Pizzo

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Following the railway or the SS18, you might want to spend some time in the picturesque little town of PIZZO, overlooking the sea. Just off the main Piazza della Repubblica here, the small, well-preserved castle is worth a look (daily: summer 8.30am–8pm; winter 8.30am–7pm; €2.50). Built in 1486 by Ferdinand I of Aragon, it holds the room in which the French general Joachim Murat was imprisoned, with some of his personal effects and copies of the last letters he wrote, and the terrace where he was shot in October 1815. Murat, Napoleon’s brother-in-law and one of his ablest generals, met his ignominious end here after attempting to rouse the people against the Bourbons to reclaim the throne of Naples given to him by Napoleon; the people of Pizzo ignored his haughty entreaties, and he was arrested and court-martialled. A couple of kilometres north of the centre, signposted off the main road into town, you might drop in on the Chiesetta di Piedigrotta (daily 9am–1pm

& 3–7.30pm, closes 5pm in winter; tickets €2.50 from Bar Aquarium near the entrance), a curious rock-hewn church next to a sandy beach. Created in the seventeenth century by Neapolitan sailors rescued from a shipwreck, the church was later enlarged and its interior festooned with eccentric statuary depicting episodes from the Bible. Most of this was the work of a local father-and-son team, and it was augmented by another scion of the family in 1969, who restored the works and contributed a scene of his own, a double portrait of Pope John XXIII and President Kennedy. Practicalities

Southwest of Pizzo, TROPEA can claim to be the prettiest town on the whole of the southern Tyrrhenian coast, built right on the edge of steep cliffs, towering high over its beach. It is also (after Maratea in Basilicata) the most fashionable, with a seaside charm missing from many of the other Calabrian resorts, though the charm can wear pretty thin in the face of the tourist inﬂux during the summer months.

| Calabria’s Tyrrhenian coast

Tropea and around

BAS I L I C ATA AND C AL ABRI A

Pizzo has a tourist office at the bottom of Piazza della Repubblica (summer daily 9.30am–1.30pm & 3–8pm; T 0963.531.310, W www.prolocopizzo.it). There are good places to stay, though as it’s a beach resort booking is essential in the summer. Very near the castle on Via Armonia is the clean little B&B Casa Armonia (T 0963.533.337 or 339.374.3731, W www.casaarmonia.com; 2 ; no credit cards), with a friendly owner and a terrace overlooking the sea. Another good option is A Casa Janca (T 0963.264.364 or 349.574.7135; 2 ), a ﬁrst-rate agriturismo signposted off the main road out of town heading north. Furnished in traditional rustic style, the place is locally renowned for its restaurant, where non-guests can also dine for around €30 on local specialities such as zuppa di cipolla (onion soup); half board costs €120 for two. There’s a good choice of places to eat in Pizzo clustered around Piazza della Repubblica. On the piazza is Pizzeria La Ruota (T 0963.532.427; Oct–May closed Wed) where pizzas cost €4–7 – try the house speciality, La Ruota, with tuna, olives and peppers. Alternatively, walk down to Lungomare Colombo for a range of seafood restaurants, one of them, La Nave (Oct–May closed Wed), in the form of a ship. Between April and July you can sample the local tuna or swordﬁsh, for which Pizzo is a ﬁshing centre. Make sure you also try the famous local ice cream, tartufo di Pizzo – a portion is a bit like eating a whole box of chocolate truffles.

Arrival and information

Trains from Lamezia, Reggio Calabria, and surrounding coastal villages arrive at Tropea’s station located on the outskirts of the centro storico, 1km from the beach. In summer, regular bus services link the coastal resorts to Tropea, but transport is more infrequent out of season. Tropea currently has no tourist office, though some of the travel agencies in the centre can provide basic information. There’s internet access at Quellilà della Bottega Artigiana, below the central Piazza Ercole at Largo Ruffa 5/6 ( June–Oct Mon–Sat 10am–1pm & 4–9pm, Sun 5–9pm, closes midnight July & Aug). Accommodation

In August it is vital to book accommodation ahead; Tropea is the best-known resort on the Calabrian coast and consequently expensive, too.

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Camping Marina del Convento T0963.62.501, Wwww.marinadelconvento.it and Camping Marina dell’Isola T 0963.61.970, Wwww .maregrande.it. Right on the beach at the base of the cliff below Tropea’s centre on Via Marina del Convento, these two adjacent campsites have similar facilities, though Marina del Convento also has small, simple bungalows and apartments for €300 a week in mid-season, rising to €900 a week in Aug. May–Oct. Porta del Mare Via Libertà 52 T0963.607.041, Wwww.valentour.it. An old, remodelled palazzo provides modern comforts near the centre, with a

terrace overlooking the sea. Rooms are small but well equipped. 5 Villa Italia Via della Vittoria 7 T0963.666.194, Wwww.bbvillaitalia.it. This bright, modern B&B near the centre (behind the post ofﬁce) provides the best value in town, but book early to ensure availability. All rooms have a/c, TV and private bathroom. 3 Virgilio Viale Tondo 21 T0963.61.978, Wwww .hotel-virgilio.com. A blandly furnished but welcoming family-run three-star that requires half-or full board in high season. 4

The Town

| Calabria’s Tyrrhenian coast

There are numerous beaches around the town, all within walking distance of the centre, and the buildings have character without being twee – see particularly the lovely Norman cathedral at the bottom of Via Roma, whose interior harbours a couple of unexploded American bombs from the last war (one accompanied by a grateful prayer to the Madonna), a Renaissance ciborium and a statue of the Madonna and Child from the same period. The views from the upper town over the sea and the church of Santa Maria dell’Isola on its rock (closed for restoration) are superb, and on a clear day you can see the cone of Strómboli, and sometimes other Aeolian Islands looming on the horizon. Eating and drinking

Tropea has more trattorias per square metre than any other town in Calabria, often with budget tourist menus. Nightlife, meanwhile, is tranquil, with good wine bars and ice-cream parlours in which to while away the evening. Most places are closed from October to Easter. La Cantina del Principe Largo Galluppi 18 T 0963.61.400. Authentic, moderately priced Calabrese dishes served in a converted cellar or at tables outside; mains from about €10, though prices rise for the month of Aug. La Munizione Largo Duomo 12. Chic cocktail bar behind the cathedral, with a roof terrace boasting excellent views. It serves around 130 wines, cocktails from €5 and meals for around €25. Closed Mon Oct–May. Le Volpi e L’Uva Via Pelliccia 2/4, signed off Corso Vittorio Emanuele II T 0963.61.900. Intimate

enoteca and restaurant, with around 300 wines and seafood dishes around the €10 mark. Osteria del Pescatore Via del Monte 7 T347.531.8989. Excellent, good-value ﬁsh served up in a vaulted cellar around the corner from the cathedral; a big plate of spaghetti alla tropeana is around €8. Vecchio Forno Via Caivano, off Corso Vittorio Emanuele II. The most historic place to eat in town, serving crisp, freshly baked pizza for around €4 – the smell of peperoncino is heavenly. Dinner only.

Capo Vaticano

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Further around the promontory, CAPO VATICANO holds some of the area’s most popular beaches, including Grotticelle and Tonicello, both spacious enough to allow you to get away from the bustle. Grotticelle has a campsite immediately above it, Quattro Scogli (T 0963.663.126, W www.quattroscogli .it; April–Oct), where you can also rent self-contained apartments (from €1000 a week in high season for a two-room place); a few minutes’ walk further up the road is a hotel run by the same management (half board obligatory in Aug; 3 ).

Ferries to Sicily from Villa San Giovanni

Scilla

Reggio Calabria and around

| Reggio Calabria and around

Heading south along the coast, the proximity of Sicily becomes the dominant feature. This stretch of the autostrada can claim to be one of the most panoramic in Italy, burrowing high up through mountains with the Straits of Messina glittering below. Travelling by train or following the old coastal road, you pass through SCILLA, with a ﬁne sandy beach and lots of action in the summer. Known as Scylla in classical times, this was the legendary location of a six-headed cave monster, one of two hazards to mariners mentioned in the Odyssey, the other being the whirlpool Charybdis, corresponding to the modern Cariddi located 6km away on the other side of the Strait. Crowning a hefty rock, a castle separates the main beach from the ﬁshing village of Chianalea to the north. If you want to stay centrally in Scilla, try Albergo Le Sirene on Via Nazionale 57 (T 0965.754.019; booking advisable in summer; 3 ); ask for one of the four front rooms facing the sea. For the best ﬁsh restaurants head to Chianalea, where Il Pirata at Via Grotte 22 (T 0965.704.292; Oct–June closed Wed) has tables right over the water and offers pasta dishes for €9 – including excellent maccheroncini con pesce spada (pasta with swordﬁsh) – and mains for €12.

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Some 9km from Scilla, Villa San Giovanni is worth stopping at only as a point of embarkation for Sicily. State-run FS ferries (T 892.021, Wwww.ferroviedellostato.it) leave from directly behind the train station about every thirty minutes (less frequently Sun and hols) and arrive at the train station in Messina in about forty minutes; if you’re travelling by car it’s more convenient to catch one of the private Caronte ferries (T800.627.414, Wwww.carontetourist.it), under the train tracks to the right of the station, which leave approximately every twenty minutes and pull in closer to the entrance of the autostrada. Both companies charge around €1.50 for foot passengers and €30 for cars. If you’re heading for Reggio, take a train or one of the city buses or Costa Viola buses from outside the station.

As you approach REGGIO CALABRIA, the provincial capital, you travel through some of the most extreme landscapes in the south. Dilapidated villages lie stranded among mountains, which are themselves torn apart by wide ﬁumare, or riverbeds – empty or reduced to a trickle for most of the year, but swelling with the melting of the winter snows to destructive torrents. Reggio itself was one of the ﬁrst ancient Greek settlements on the Italian mainland; today, it’s Calabria’s biggest town by some distance, with a population of over 180,000 – but also one that’s been synonymous for years with urban decline and the inﬂuence of the ’Ndrangheta Maﬁa. Although efforts to regenerate the city are evident wherever you look, there’s little to detain you here for more than a day and most travellers use it merely as a gateway to Sicily or the Aeolian Islands.

Arrival, information and accommodation There is a small airport (T 0965.642.232, W www.sogas.it) outside Reggio, serving primarily Italian destinations, with frequent bus connections to the centre. If you’re arriving by train, get off at Reggio Lido for the port or museum. Buses

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The Town

The Museo Nazionale at the northern end of Corso Garibaldi (closed for restoraTrain Station EATING & DRINKING tion at the time of writing) is (Reggio Centrale) Baylik 1 PIAZZA Spaccanapoli 2 Reggio’s main draw. It holds GARIBALDI the most important collection of archeological ﬁnds in Calabria, full of items dating from the Hellenic period, with examples from all the major Greek sites in Calabria, including the famous pinakes or carved tablets from the sanctuary of Persephone at Locri. The most renowned exhibits in the museum are the Bronzi di Riace: two bronze statues dragged out of the Ionian Sea in 1972 near the village of Riace. They are shapely examples of the highest period of Greek art (ﬁfth century BC), and especially prized because there are so few ﬁnds from this period in such a good state of repair. While the Museo Nazionale is closed, the Bronzi are displayed at the Palazzo del Consiglio nearby at Via Portanova (daily 9am–7pm; free). When it reopens, you will also be able to view examples of Byzantine and Renaissance art, including two works by Antonello da Messina. VIA BIXIO

| Reggio Calabria and around

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end up at the Reggio Centrale station, 1km or so down the long Corso Garibaldi. You may want to make use of city buses for getting from one end of town to the other (almost all buses stop at both the museum and the station); tickets cost €0.80 from kiosks and tabacchi. There are several internet points around the station and along Corso Garibaldi. There are tourist offices at the station (Mon–Sat 8am–2pm & 2.30–8pm; T 0965.894.518) and at Via Roma 3 (Mon & Wed 9am–12.30pm & 2–5.30pm, Tues, Thurs & Fri 9am–12.30pm; T 0965.22.530, W www.proloco reggiocalabria.it). Accommodation options are reasonable, with the clean, central B&B Delﬁna at Via Croceﬁsso 58 (T 334.161.3905, W www.bb-delfina.com; 2 ), near the Duomo. Otherwise try the Hotel Lido at Via Tre Settembre 6 (T 0965.25.001, W www.albergolido.com; 3 ), a three-star with cheerful rooms at the other end of the Corso, near the Lido station.

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Ferries from Reggio to Sicily and the Aeolians From Reggio’s port, Ústica Lines (T0965.29.568, Wwww.usticalines.it) and Metromare (T 0923.873.813, Wwww.metromaredellostretto.it) run hydrofoils (roughly hourly; 15–30min; €4) to Messina. There are also regular hydrofoil services to the Aeolian Islands (summer 3–4 daily to each island; winter 1 daily; €17.50–19.60). For transporting a car to Messina, the most frequent service is from Villa San Giovanni (see box, p.855), though Meridiano (T0965.810.414, Wwww.meridianolines.it), which runs ferries primarily for commercial vehicles from Reggio to Messina and to Tremestieri, a few kilometres south of Messina, will carry other vehicles too (every 2hr Mon–Sat; €12 per car).

There are a handful of eating places around Corso Garibaldi, including the casual and good-value Spaccanapoli at Via Fata Morgana 3 (T 0965.312.276; closed lunchtime Sat & Sun), which offers self-service lunches, pastas and pizzas for €4–9. Worthy of the hike 1.5km north of the Museo Nazionale to Vico Leone, Baylik serves up the city’s best ﬁsh (T 0965.48.624), including spaghetti with ﬁori di zucca e pesce spada (courgette ﬂowers and swordﬁsh) and excellent grilled prawns for around €35 for a full meal. The best gelateria in town is Cesare, a kiosk on Piazza Indipendenza between the Lido train station and the Museo Nazionale.

Aspromonte Most visitors to Reggio leave without having ventured into the great massif of Aspromonte, the last spur of the Apennines on the tip of Italy’s boot. Here you can be on a beach and a ski slope within the same hour, passing from the brilliant, almost tropical vegetation of the coast to dense forests of beech and pine that rise to nearly 2000m. Although it recently became a national park, the thickly forested mountain has not yet shown any sign of becoming a tourist destination. This is mostly due to its reputation as the stronghold of the ’Ndrangheta, the Calabrian maﬁa, and as such most Italians would think you mad for going there. On top of this, the area remains virtually unsigned, and the oppressive tree cover rarely breaks to provide views. If you’re in a car take notice of the Strada Interotta (“Road interrupted”) signs that you’ll ﬁnd at the entrances: you should not even think about attempting the rocky dirt tracks across the range unless you are driving an off-road vehicle. If the walking and hiking still draws you, you will ﬁnd access to the Aspromonte range is easiest from the Tyrrhenian side, with several buses a day leaving Reggio’s Piazza Garibaldi for Gambarie and winding their way up the highly scenic SS184 from Gallico, through profusely terraced groves of vine and citrus to the village of SANTO STEFANO, famous as the birthplace and ﬁnal resting place of the last

| Reggio Calabria and around

Eating and drinking

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Reggio’s other must-see attraction is the Piccolo Museo di San Paolo at Via Reggio Campi 4 (Wed, Sat & Sun 9.30am–noon, but check it’s open at T 0965.892.426; free), an impressive private collection of religious art including some 160 Russian icons and a St Michael attributed to Antonello da Messina. A stroll along the lungomare seaside esplanade is pleasant, affording wonderful views of the Sicilian coastline and, occasionally, Mount Etna. There are remains of sixth-century-BC city walls and a Roman bathing complex at the southern end before the Villa Comunale. Just east of the ancient baths stands the Duomo (daily 8am–noon & 4–8pm), heavily restored after an earthquake.

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of the great brigands who roamed these parts, Giuseppe Musolino (1875–1956). Occupying a sort of Robin Hood role in the popular imagination, Musolino was a legend in his own lifetime, the last thirty years of which he spent in jail and, ﬁnally, a lunatic asylum – the penalty for having led the carabinieri on a long and humiliating dance up and down the slopes of Aspromonte during his proﬁtable career. Just above the village, in the cemetery, you can see Musolino’s grave, now renovated but until recently daubed with the signatures of people come to pay their respects. If you’re in the region in late summer it’s worth timing your visit to see the large fair that takes place every year on the ﬁrst two days of September at the Santuario della Madonna di Polsi, a 10km hike from the park entrance: an unashamedly pagan event that involves the sale and slaughter of large numbers of goats. Its popularity has a darker side, however: the fair is well known to provide a convenient cover for the annual meeting of ’Ndrangheta cells from all over the world.

Cosenza and around

| Cosenza and around

In Calabria’s interior, COSENZA is a burgeoning city with a small and clean historic centre surrounded by rings of featureless modern construction. The one thing worth seeing in town is the stately Duomo (daily 8.30am–noon & 4–7pm) in the historic town centre on the main street, Corso Telesio. Consecrated on the occasion of Frederick II’s visit to the city in 1222, it contains the lovely tomb of Isabella of Aragon, who died in Cosenza in 1271 while returning with her husband Philip III – seen kneeling beside her – from an abortive Crusade in Tunisia, as well as a copy of a thirteenth-century Byzantine icon, the Madonna del Pilerio, which was once carried around the country during times of plague. Tradition has it that under the Busento River in Cosenza is the burial place of Alaric the Goth, the barbarian who gave the Western world a jolt when he prised open the gates of Rome in 410 AD. Struck down for his sins by malaria while journeying south, he was interred here along with his booty, and the course of the river deviated to cover the traces, lending Cosenza a place in history and giving rise to countless, fruitless projects to discover the tomb’s whereabouts. In the new town, you might take a stroll around the pedestrianized main axis, Corso Mazzini, and Piazza Bilotti to see half a dozen open-air sculptures by the likes of Dalí, De Chirico and Pietro Consagra, part of a bequest that makes up the Museo all’Aperto Bilotti, or MAB.

Practicalities

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The bus station is below Piazza Fera, from where it’s a twenty-minute walk down the length of Corso Mazzini to the hotels and the centro storico. Arriving by train, you have to take a bus (every 20min) from the train station a little way outside town – buy your ticket from the bar inside the station. Hotels are mostly soulless, business-traveller places, but there are one or two nicer alternatives. In the old town, the Ostello Re Alarico at Vico Serra 10, just above the River Crati (T 0984.792.570 or 328.114.9430, W www.ostellorealarico .com; 1 ), occupies an eighteenth-century palazzo with antique furnishings, accommodation in double rooms or dormitories and the use of a kitchen and internet, and there’s a garden for summer barbecues. Alternatively, try the Excelsior on Piazza Matteotti (T 0984.74.383, W www.htlexcelsior.it; 1 ), a spacious, comfortable and well-furnished hotel close to the historic centre.

For eating try Calabria Bella (T 0984.793.531) in the old town on Piazza Duomo, which has outside seating in summer and serves traditional local dishes; a generous mixed plate of antipasti can be had for about €8. There are numerous cafés and pubs, but the best aperitif is to be found at the old-fashioned Gran Caffè Renzelli, up past the Duomo on Corso Umberto.

Around Cosenza

BAS I L I C ATA AND C AL ABRI A

| The Sila

If you’re spending any time in Cosenza, you’ll probably be mostly interested in excursions into the Sila highlands (see below), but some of the villages dotted around the surrounding hills shouldn’t be ignored. In summer, the streets are lively until late, and at night the views over the bowl of the valley are magniﬁcent, with glittering threads and clusters of light. It’s also in the summer that the village festas normally take place, with each comune vying to outdo the others in terms of spectacle and expense. The hilltop village of RENDE holds the prize for the tidiest village in the region: it has good views and an absorbing little museum (Mon, Wed & Fri 9am–1pm, Tues & Thurs 9am–1pm & 3–6pm; free) in the Palazzo Zagarese, on Via de Bártolo, devoted to local folk art, costumes, cuisine, music, the Albanian community and emigration. Rende also boasts a decent choice of places to eat and drink, including the rustic-looking Hostaria de Mendoza, at Piazza degli Eroi 3 (T 0984.444.022; closed Wed), which offers fresh truffles and a range of meat dishes for €10–15. Northeast of Cosenza, above the village of Luzzi, stands the Abbazia di Sambucina. A Cistercian abbey founded in the twelfth century and long the centre of this order of monks throughout the south, it has a beautiful, lightly pointed portal (rebuilt in the ﬁfteenth century) and the original presbytery. Buses for the villages depart from the bus station in Cosenza, below Piazza Fera, but to get the most out of these places you ideally need your own transport, as services normally stop at nightfall.

The Sila Covering the widest part of the Calabrian peninsula, the Sila massif, east of Cosenza, is more of an extensive plateau than a mountain range, though the peaks on its western ﬂank reach heights of nearly 2000m. Protected by the Parco Nazionale della Sila (W www.parcosila.it), it’s divided into three main groups, the Sila Greca, Sila Grande and Sila Piccola, of which the Sila Grande is of most interest to tourists. At one time the Sila was one huge forest and was exploited from earliest times to provide fuel and material for the construction of ﬂeets, fortresses and even for church-building in Rome, resulting in a deforestation that helped bring about the malarial conditions that for centuries laid much of Calabria low. The cutting of trees is now strictly controlled, and ancient pines (the so-called Giganti della Sila), which can live for several hundred years, are among the region’s chief attractions. There’s plenty here, too, for the outdoors enthusiast: in summer the area provides relief from the heat of the towns; and in winter there’s downhill and cross-country skiing.

The Sila Grande Densely forested, and the highest, most extensive part of the Sila range, the Sila Grande is home to Calabria’s main ski slopes as well as the region’s three principal

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lakes – all artiﬁcial (for hydroelectric purposes) and much loved by ﬁshing enthusiasts, who come out in force at weekends. If you want to spend any time up here, the campsites enjoy good lakeside locations, while the hotels are mainly in the towns and villages, and many close out of season. Camigliatello

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The town of CAMIGLIATELLO is the best known of the resorts, a functional place that’s well connected by bus with Cosenza, though it lacks any intrinsic charm. Centred on Via Roma, the town has three ski slopes of its own, and another in Contrada Moccone (a satellite of Camigliatello 3km west), plus a confusion of hotels, restaurants and souvenir shops. If you fancy skiing, day-passes are available from €15 and you will ﬁnd the slopes have facilities for renting equipment (from €20 per day). Several ski clubs offer tuition (group lessons from €20 per person per hour). For information call the tourist office (see below). The Sila terrain also makes ideal riding country, though most stables are open in summer only; the tourist office can arrange outings. Practicalities

| The Sila

The Pro Loco tourist office at the top of Via Roma keeps slightly erratic opening hours (in theory 9.30am–12.30pm & 3.30–6.30pm, closed Mon Oct–June; T 0984.578.159), and has maps of the area and suggestions for walking routes in the park. If you want to stay, try the plain but inexpensive Miramonti on Via Forgitelle (T 0984.579.067, W www.miramontisila.it; 1 ), which has a restaurant preparing simple local cuisine, or the comfortable and slightly pricier Cristallo, Via Roma 91 (T 0984.578.013; 2 ), which also has a restaurant. For a snack in Camigliatello, Bar Campanaro at the top of Via Roma has the best pastries, panini and other fast food, while Contrada Moccone has a greatvalue trattoria, Da Fulvio (T 0984.578.790; closed Mon except in Aug), which is known for good-value, simple local cooking, using wild mushrooms and wild boar (around €15 for a full meal). Some 3km outside Camigliatello in the other direction, at Contrada San Lorenzo, the snazzy, modern La Tavernetta has a welldeserved reputation for some of Calabria’s best gourmet food at fairly reasonable prices – it’s worth booking ahead (T 0984.579.026). The Strada delle Vette

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Camigliatello is a useful starting-point for a tough hike that takes in the area’s highest peaks, following the Strada delle Vette (“road of the peaks”) for 13km through pine and beech woods before forking off and up to the three peaks of Monte Scuro, Monte Curcio and, highest of all, Monte Botte Donato (1928m). The trail, which is often snowbound between December and May, continues on down to Lago Arvo and the resort of LORICA, from where it’s a shorter distance than following the Strada delle Vette to reach Botte Donato. Or you can save the sweat and take the chair lift from Località Cavaliere, just outside town. Connected with Cosenza by bus, arriving in the morning and returning in the afternoon, Lorica, like Camigliatello, is dedicated to tourism in the height of the winter and summer seasons, but its lakeside location makes it a more relaxed spot, with lots of places for picnicking under the pines and observing the antics of the black squirrels that inhabit them. Lorica also has a comfortable four-star hotel, Park 108 at Via Nazionale 86 (T 0984.537.077, W www .hotelpark108.it; 3 ), which doesn’t ask for half board in high season and has a sauna and ﬁtness centre.

Activities in the Parco Nazionale Pollino

Parco Nazionale Pollino

| Parco Nazionale Pollino • Calabria’s Ionian coast

Straddling Basilicata and Calabria, the Parco Nazionale Pollino (Pollino National Park) is Italy’s largest, covering an area of nearly two thousand square kilometres. It is named for the Massiccio del Pollino, a massif in the southern Apennines that reaches a height of 2248m, offering spectacular views over pine forests, plains, limestone slopes, and beyond, to both the Tyrrhenian and Ionian seas. That, and its other major peaks such as the Serra Dolcedorme (2267m), are best explored on organized hiking excursions (see box above) aimed at seeking out the park’s rare ﬂora and fauna which include the cuirassed pine (the park’s symbol), the roe deer and the golden eagle. The park’s lower slopes are home to nearly sixty villages, best seen by car, as public transport connections are irregular. From Calabria, one logical gateway is LAINO BORGO, just off the A3 autostrada, known for its Santuario delle Cappelle, ﬁfteen chapels frescoed with scenes from the life of Christ. From here, it is a short drive to Laino Castello, an eerie medieval hamlet abandoned after an earthquake in the 1980s that holds commanding views over the Lao river valley. The park’s limestone terrain is particularly susceptible to erosion, which gives rise to its many grottoes including the Grotta del Romito in PAPASIDERO. Many guided excursions depart to the Pollino massif from Papasidero, though the town itself is worth a stroll for its elaborately carved portals that precede churches and palazzi nobili. Near the park’s eastern boundary are several towns – Acquaformosa, Civita, San Basile, San Costantino Albanese and San Paolo Albanese among them – founded between 1470 and 1540 by Albanian refugees ﬂeeing persecution by the Turks. Here language, costume and religious customs have a decidedly eastern ﬂavour.

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From horseriding to hiking, there are plenty of activities on offer in the park. Try the following operators: CAI (Club Alpino Italiano) Via C. Pepe 74, Castrovillari T334.100.5054, W www.cai castrovillari.it. The Italian Alpine Club can arrange hikes and nature trails with Englishspeaking guides. Ente Parco Complesso Monumentale Santa Maria della Consolazione, Rotonda T 0973.669.311, Wwww.parcopollino.it. The ofﬁcial national park ofﬁce, with information on activities and hiking maps. Ferula Viaggi Via Cappelluti 34, Matera T0835.336.572, Wwww.ferulaviaggi.it. Multi-day hiking or biking excursions with guides and lodging. Viaggiare nel Pollino T 0973.669.290, Wwww.viaggiarenelpollino.com. Thematic tours, hiking, biking and rafting excursions. The website has a mine of information on the park.

Calabria’s Ionian coast Calabria’s Ionian coast is a mainly ﬂat sandy strip, sometimes monotonous but less developed than the Tyrrhenian side of the peninsula, and with cleaner water. At the border with Basilicata, mountainous slopes soon give way to the wide Piana di Sibari, the most extensive of the Calabrian coastal plains, bounded by

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Pollino to the north, the Sila Greca to the west and the Sila Grande in the south. The rivers ﬂowing off these mountains, which for centuries kept the land well watered and rich, also helped to transform it into a stagnant and malarial mire, and although land reclamation has restored the area’s fertility, without visiting the museum and excavations at Sybaris you could pass through the area with no inkling of the civilization that once ﬂourished on these shores. Southeast of here, the old Byzantine centre of Rossano and Crotone, another ancient Greek city, provide further interest as you travel along the coastline. The southern part of Calabria’s Ionian seaboard is less developed than the rest of the region, perhaps because it’s less interesting scenically and most of the seaside towns and villages strung along it are unappealing. If you like sandy beaches, though, this is where to ﬁnd them – either wild and unpopulated or, if you prefer, glitzy and brochure-style, as at Soverato. At Locri there’s the region’s best collection of Greek ruins and, overlooking the coast a short way inland, the craggy medieval strongholds of Squillace and Gerace.

Sybaris

| Calabria’s Ionian coast

Long one of the great archeological mysteries tantalizing generations of scholars, the site of ancient SYBARIS (Sibari) was only deﬁnitely identiﬁed in the late 1960s, when aerial and X-ray photography conﬁrmed that the site previously known to be that of Roman Thurium was also that of Sybaris. There are in fact three separate levels of construction that have been unearthed here, one Greek and two Roman, one on top of the other. Together these make up one of the world’s largest archeological sites, covering a thousand hectares (compared with Pompeii’s ﬁfty), though only ten hectares have so far been dug up. The excavations lie across the rail lines, some 4km south down the SS106, on the right-hand side (Tues–Sun 9am to 1hr before sunset; free). Most of them belong to the Roman period, but something of the earlier site might still be turned up – the silt and sand of the river bed have yet to be explored properly, work having been effectively halted for much of the last twenty years owing to shortage of funds. Of the Roman city, the remains are at least impressively displayed and maintained, including baths, a patrician’s house with mosaics, and a decumanus – main street – claimed to be the widest in existence. There’s more to be seen, from here and other local sites, at the Museo della Sibaritide (Tues–Sun 9am–7.30pm; €2), down a left turn about 1km before the excavations, on the banks of the River Crati.

A life of luxury

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The wealth of Sybaris was only one factor in its fame. The inhabitants of the city – said to number 100,000 – were so fond of luxury and their excesses so legendary that we derive the modern word sybarite from their reputation. The city’s laws and institutions were apparently made to ensure the greatest comfort and wellbeing of its citizens, including the banning from the city of all noisy traders, such as metalworkers, and the planting of trees along every street for shade. Cooks were so highly prized that they were apparently bought and sold in the marketplace for great sums and were allowed to patent their recipes, while inventions ascribed to the Sybarites include pasta and the chamberpot. This was all too much for the Crotonians, who under their general Milo destroyed the city in 510 BC, diverting the waters of the river over the site to complete the job.

Rossano

There’s a Pro Loco tourist office in Piazza Matteotti in the centro storico (Mon–Sat 10am–noon & 5–7pm; T 0983.030.760, W www.prolocorossano.it), but all the hotels are in the modern lower town, none of them especially cheap nor lovely. Murano at Viale Mediterraneo 2 in Lido Sant’Angelo (T 0983.511.788, W www .hotelmurano.it; 4 ) at least has great sea views and a maritime feel, while Scigliano (T 0983.511.846, W www.hotelscigliano.it; 3 ), at Viale Margherita 257, 50m up from the level crossing heading towards town, is a family-run place with an award-winning restaurant. For camping, Oriental Park (T 0983.290.266, W www .orientalpark.altervista.org) is less than 1km north of Rossano Scalo and has chalets for rent (2 ). Up in the old town, just off Piazza Anargiri in Via San Bartolomeo, you’ll ﬁnd the town’s best trattoria, A La Villa, offering alfresco eating in summer (T 0983.522.214; dinner only; Sept–June closed Tues). It serves typical Calabrese food, with lots of local sausage and tomatoes; a full meal will cost €15–20 a head. There’s another, slightly cheaper and more casual place, La Bizantina (T 0983.525.340; dinner only; Sept–June closed Mon), right outside San Marco, which has great antipasti (try the peperoni e patate – roast red peppers and potatoes).

| Calabria’s Ionian coast

Practicalities

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Down the coast, the resort of Rossano Scalo has far outstripped its parent-town of ROSSANO in terms of size and bustle, and most of the holiday-makers who frequent its beaches never even get round to visiting the hilltop town, 7km up an awkward winding road – something that has helped to preserve the old centre from excessive development. The foremost Byzantine centre in the south, Rossano was the focus of a veritable renaissance of literature, theology and art between the eighth and eleventh centuries, a period to which the town’s greatest treasures belong. Its majolica-tiled cathedral is an Angevin construction largely rebuilt after an 1836 earthquake, but it does have a much-venerated ninth-century Byzantine fresco, Madonna Achiropita, whose Greek epithet, meaning “not painted by hand”, refers to its divine authorship. Next to the cathedral, the Museo Diocesano (mid-June to mid-Sept daily 9.30am–1pm & 4.30–8pm; mid-Sept to June Tues–Sat 9.30am–12.30pm & 4–7pm; Sun 10am–noon & 4.30–6.30pm; €3) contains the famed codex purpureus Rossanensis, or Purple Codex, a unique sixth-century manuscript on reddish-purple parchment illustrating the life of Christ. The book, which was brought from Palestine by monks ﬂeeing the Muslim invasions, is open at one page, but you can leaf through a copy and see, among other things, how the Last Supper was originally depicted, with Christ and his disciples not seated but reclining on cushions round the table, and all eating from the same plate. In contrast to the cathedral’s grandiosity, the diminutive church of San Marco (daily 9am to 1hr before sunset; free), at the end of Corso Garibaldi on the edge of town, retains a primitive spirituality. The ﬁve cupolas of the tenth- or eleventhcentury construction, surrounded by palms on a terrace that looks out over the gorge below, impart an almost Middle Eastern ﬂavour.

Crotone and around South of Rossano lies an empty stretch of beach, with, inland, the vineyards of Cirò, the source of Calabria’s best-known wine. Crossing the River Neto into the fertile Marchesato region, you’ll have your approach to CROTONE (the ancient Greek city of Kroton) blighted by a smoky industrial zone – not the most alluring entry into a city, but a rare thing in Calabria, and a reminder of the false hopes

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once vested in the industrialization of the region. In spite of this, Crotone today has an agreeable, unspoiled old centre, and makes a good base for the beaches that spread to the south and for the Greek ruins at Capo Colonna. Arrival, information and accommodation

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Arriving by train you may want to take a taxi or bus to cover the 1.5km to the centre of town, Piazza Pitagora, and most of the hotels. The bus station is on Via Ruffo, a couple of streets east of Piazza Pitagora. There’s a tourist office in the old town at Corso Vittorio Emanuele 12 (summer daily 9am–1pm & 4–7pm; winter Mon–Fri 9am–1pm & 4–6pm, Sat 9am–1pm; T 0962.921.857). There are two good accommodation choices in the old town: round the corner off Piazza della Vittoria, the rather dingy entrance of the Concordia (T 0962.23.910, W www.hotelconcordiakr.it; 2 ) belies this hotel’s small but attractive rooms, while behind the tourist office at Via Cavour 7, Palazzo Berlingieri (T 333.743.2092 or 388.895.8935, W www.gettinidivitalba.it; no credit cards; 1 ) is Crotone’s most characterful option: a beautifully restored eighteenth-century palace run by a women’s cooperative that includes workshops and meeting rooms as well as guest rooms for “cultural tourists”. For more conventional holiday accommodation – and a bit of luxury – Residence Casarossa on Via per Capocolonna (T 0962.934.201, W www.casarossa.it; 3 ) boasts a private beach and all mod cons. The Town

| Calabria’s Ionian coast

The site of ancient Kroton has been entirely lost, but in its day this was among the most important colonial settlements of Magna Graecia, overshadowed by its more powerful neighbour Sybaris, but with a school of medicine that was famous throughout the classical world and closely linked with the prowess of the city’s athletes, who regularly scooped all the honours at the Olympic Games back in Greece. In 530 BC the mathematician and metaphysician Pythagoras took up residence in Kroton and it went on to be the foremost of the Greek cities in Calabria. However, increasingly destabilized by internal conﬂicts the city was eventually destroyed by the Romans. A resurgence of sorts occurred in the thirteenth century when it was made the main town of the Marchesato region, a vast feudal domain held by the powerful Ruffo family of Catanzaro. But its prosperity was always hindered by the scourge of malaria, provoking the author George Gissing – himself a victim of malaria during his visit in 1897 – to condemn Crotone as “a squalid little town”. The town’s Museo Archeologico Nazionale (Tues–Sun 9am–1pm & 3–7pm; €2.50) on Via Risorgimento holds the best collection of ﬁnds from Magna Graecia on the Ionian coast. Most noteworthy is the so-called Treasure of Hera, a beautifully restored group of bronze statuettes – including a sphinx, a gorgon, a horse, a winged siren and a very rare nuraghic boat from Sardinia dating from the seventh to the ﬁfth centuries BC. The most dazzling item is a gold diadem, expertly worked with garlands of leaves and sprigs of myrtle. Eating and drinking

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As for eating, Crotone is one of the best places in the region for seafood, being blessed with some of the least over-ﬁshed waters in the Mediterranean and a couple of talented chefs. The excellent A Da Ercole (T 0962.901.425; Sept–June closed Sun), on the seafront at Viale Gramsci 122, is run by Ercole Villirillo, who runs cookery classes all over the world, and is one of the few places where you can sample such dishes as linguine a pitagora (which feature prine, a kind of sea anemone) or ricciola with wild artichokes (ricciola con carcioﬁ selvatici). Above and behind Da Ercole on Via di Bártolo is the equally highly rated A La Sosta (T 0962.902.243;

closed Sun dinner and all July & Aug). A meal at either place will probably weigh in at around €50, though La Sosta also offers set-price menus for €25 and €30. In the centre, Caffè Italia next to the Concordia off Piazza Pitagora is good for a refreshing latte di mandorla (almond milk) or the local speciality of rose-shaped pastries (closed Sun in summer). Inland to Santa Severina

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| Calabria’s Ionian coast

From Crotone’s bus office on Via Ruffo there are a couple of departures daily to SANTA SEVERINA, on the eastern fringes of the Sila Piccola. A Byzantine fortiﬁed town built on a hilltop, it’s well worth a detour, principally for the Norman castle that dominates it. Rebuilt by Robert Guiscard on the ruins of a Byzantine stronghold and remodelled by the Swabians and Angevins, the renovated castle holds a ﬁrst-rate museum (April–Sept daily 9.30am–12.30pm & 3.30–6.30pm, closes 7pm in summer; Oct–March Tues–Sun 9.30am–12.30pm & 3.30–6.30pm; €5), taking in all parts of the construction from the foundations to the ﬁrst-ﬂoor rooms. From the stout battlemented walls long views extend over the hilly surroundings towards the mountains of the Sila. On the other side of the piazza, whose ﬂagstones are studded with symbols of the zodiac, the Duomo lies adjacent to an eighth-century Byzantine baptistry (ask the cathedral’s nuns to open it for you), which preserves traces of frescoes of the saints, Greek inscriptions on the capitals and its original font. On the other side of the Duomo, the Museo Diocesano also repays a visit (same times as museum; €2.50), containing a painfully graphic ﬁfteenth-century Christ on the cross, an early printed edition of the Bible, and – its greatest treasure – the Spilla Angioina, a brooch from about 1300, studded with gold, pearls and rubies. If you’re looking for a full meal in Santa Severina, try the Locanda del Re (T 0962.51.662) on the steps below the castle which, thanks to serving as the canteen for the town police, is open every day. Food is rooted in the medieval traditions of the area, so expect handmade pasta, lots of wild mushroom, boar, ricotta and pecorino on the ﬁxed-price menus (€10–25). The owners also have little apartments to rent (E [email protected]; 3 ) in the centro storico, also available for one night. A nice alternative, 3km outside town at Cerzeto off the SS107, is the A Agriturismo Il Querceto (T 0962.51.467 or 328.262.0680, W www.agriturismoilquerceto .kr.it; no credit cards), a ﬁfty-hectare organic farm which raises beef and grows citrus fruit and olives. They have rooms and apartments, a swimming pool, and mountain bikes to rent. You can stay on a B&B basis (1 ) or half board (€45 per person). Capo Colonna to Le Castella

Another worthwhile excursion from Crotone is to the famed column at CAPO COLONNA on Calabria’s extreme eastern point, for which you have to drive or walk 11km along the coast. The column is a solitary remnant of a vast structure that served as the temple for all the Greeks in Calabria. Dedicated to Hera Lacinia, the temple originally possessed 48 of these Doric columns and was the repository of immense wealth before being repeatedly sacked as Magna Graecia and Hellenism itself declined. There are some excellent bathing spots not far south of here. The Isola Capo Rizzuto is a spit of land, not an island, with a choice of sandy or rocky inlets to swim from. During the winter the resort is dead, but it can get quite congested in the height of summer and difficult to ﬁnd a place to stay. Nearby LE CASTELLA is another busy holiday spot, but not yet strangled by tourism. It would be hard to spoil the beautifully sited Aragonese fortress (Tues–Sun 9am

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to 1hr before sunset; €3) on an islet just off the main town. You could wander round the outside of the castle and swim off the rocks, though you’ll probably be more tempted by the arc of beach to the south. For food, you can’t do better than L’Aragonese (T 0962.795.013), right opposite the castle, serving lots of fresh ﬁsh and pizzas in the evening.

Catanzaro and Squillace

BAS I L I C ATA AND C AL ABRI A

| Calabria’s Ionian coast

Despite its ﬁne position, set high up in the foothills of the Sila and with good views out to sea, Calabria’s regional capital, CATANZARO, has little innate charm. It’s a crowded, overdeveloped, traffic-ridden city, within a short ride of some ﬁve-star beaches, but otherwise best avoided. There’s more interest further on down the coast at the ruined basilica of Santa Maria della Roccella, or La Roccelletta, 100m down the road that branches off the SS106, signposted towards San Floro and Borgia. Half-hidden in an olive grove, this partly restored redbrick shell is all that remains of what was once the second-largest church in Calabria (after Gerace). Of uncertain date, though probably Norman in origin and founded by Basilian monks, it still has a mighty impact on the unsuspecting viewer. The church is part of a larger Zona Archeologica (daily 9am to 1hr before sunset; free) of the Roman town of Scolacium. The best-preserved item here is a theatre, once able to hold some 3500 spectators, and thought to have been abandoned following a ﬁre some time after 350 AD. Some 5km further south along the coast, at Lido di Squillace, is the turn-off for the old town of SQUILLACE, 8km up in the hills, once an important centre but now just a mountain village, isolated on its high crag. There are lofty views to be enjoyed over the Gulf and beyond Catanzaro as far as the Sila Piccola mountain range, and the Castle (usually daily 9am–1pm & 2–6pm, but if closed ask at the comune on Piazza Municipio; T 0961.914.020) is one of the most romantic collections of ruins in Calabria. The place is probably most renowned for its associations with Cassiodorus, whose monastery was located in the vicinity – though all trace of it has long since disappeared. Cassiodorus (480–570), scholar and secretary to the Ostrogoth, Theodoric, used his position to preserve much of Italy’s classical heritage against the onset of the Dark Ages and the book-burning propensities of the Christians. Retiring to spend the last thirty years of his life in seclusion here, Cassiodorus composed histories and collections of documents – of invaluable use to historians.

Soverato

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South of Squillace, the golden sands of SOVERATO beckon, a resort that is increasingly attracting the international market. The private lidos hold sway here, charging up to €15 for a day under a parasol on a clean beach with access to a bar, but it’s easy to ﬁnd free beaches by following the coast away from town in either direction if you fancy more seclusion. Accommodation options include a couple of two-stars: San Vincenzo, Corso Umberto I 296 (T 0967.21.106, W www.sanvincenzosoverato.com; 2 ), in the centre of town; and the Riviera on Via Regina Elena (T 0967.25.738; 2 ), with sea views. Slightly more upmarket are the well-equipped Gli Ulivi, Via A. Moro 1 (T 0967.521.194, W www.hotel gliulivi.it; 3 ), which has its own strip of beach and requires half-board in peak season (€72 per person). The Campeggio Glauco campsite at Località San Nicola (T 0967.25.533; open mid-June to Aug) is 1km north of Soverato and faces onto the beach.

Locri

Gerace

| Travel details

After the Saracens devastated Locri in the seventh century AD, the survivors ﬂed inland to found GERACE, on an impregnable site that was later occupied and strengthened by the Normans. At the end of a steep and tortuous road 10km up from modern Locri, its ruined castle stands at one end of the town on a sheer cliff; it’s usually accessible, though officially the site is out of bounds due to the very precarious state of the paths and walls. Easier to visit is the Duomo (daily 8am–noon & 4–6pm; free), founded in 1045 by Robert Guiscard, enlarged by Frederick II in 1222 and today still the biggest church in Calabria. Its simple and well-preserved interior has twenty columns of granite and marble, each different and with various capitals: the one on the right nearest the altar in verde antico marble that changes tone according to the weather. There’s an attractive hotelrestaurant in Gerace, the Casa di Gianna (T 0964.355.024, W www.lacasadi gianna.it; 4 ; closed Nov) on Via Paolo Frascá 4, a gem of a four-star with just ten rooms and a terrace restaurant.

BAS I L I C ATA AND C AL ABRI A

Continuing south, you soon come to the most famous classical site on this coast, Locri Epizeﬁri (daily 9am until 1hr before sunset; free), some 5km beyond the resort town of Locri. Founded sometime in the seventh century BC, the city of Locri was responsible for the ﬁrst written code of law throughout the Hellenic world. Its moment of glory came in the second half of the sixth century when, supposedly assisted by Castor and Pollux, ten thousand Locrians defeated 130,000 Crotonians on the banks of the River Sagra, 25km north. The walls of the city, traces of which can still be seen, measured some 8km in circumference, and the excavations within are now interspersed over a wide area among farms and orchards. A car would be useful to reach some of the more far-ﬂung features, though the most interesting can be visited on foot without too much effort, including a ﬁfth-century-BC Ionic temple, a Roman necropolis and a well-preserved Greco-Roman theatre. In any case make a stop at the museum (Tues–Sun 9am–7pm; €3) to consult the plan of the site, and examine the most recent ﬁnds, including a good collection of pinakes, or votive ceramics – though most of the best items have been appropriated by the Museo Nazionale in Reggio.

Travel details Trains Cosenza to: Naples (5 direct daily; 4–5hr; 6 daily via Paola; 3–6hr); Paola (27 daily; 25min); Rome (1 direct daily; 6hr 35min; 10 daily via Paola or Naples; 5hr–7hr 45min). Matera to: Bari (Ferrovia Appulo–Lucane; 12 daily; 1hr 30min). Metaponto to: Bari (3 direct daily; 2–3hr; 10 daily via Táranto; 2hr 20min–3hr 40min); Cosenza (1 direct daily; 2hr 30min; 7 daily via Sibari; 2hr 25min–4hr 50min); Reggio (1 daily; 4hr 40min); Sibari (every 20min; 1hr–1hr 30min); Táranto (every 30min; 40–50min).

Paola to: Naples (every 30min; 2hr 30min–4hr 15min); Reggio (21 daily; 2hr–4hr 30min); Rome (11 daily; 4hr 30min–5hr 30min). Potenza to: Fóggia (14 daily; 2hr); Metaponto (10 daily; 1hr 30min); Salerno (11 daily; 1hr 40min); Táranto (8 daily; 2hr 15min). Reggio to: Catanzaro (Mon–Sat every 2hr, Sun 4 daily; 3hr–3hr 20min); Cosenza (8 daily; 2hr 40min); Naples (10 daily; 3hr 20min–8hr); Rome (10 daily; 5hr 10min–8hr). Tropea to: Rome (1 daily; 7hr 15min); Lamezia Terme (hourly; 1hr); Reggio Calabria (2 daily; 2hr).

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Buses Cosenza to: Catanzaro (Mon–Sat 8 daily; 2hr); Naples (1 daily; 4hr); Rome (2 daily; 6hr). Matera to: Metaponto (Mon–Sat 4 daily; 50min). Potenza to: Matera (Mon–Sat 4 daily; 1hr 30min); Naples (Mon–Sat 2 daily; 2hr); Rome (Mon–Sat 2 daily; 4hr 35min). Reggio to: Florence (2 daily; 12hr); Rome (3 daily; 8hr).

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Tropea to: Capo Vaticano (mid-June to mid-Sept 4 daily; 20min).

Ferries and hydrofoils Reggio to: Aeolian Islands (summer up to 4 daily to each island; winter 1 daily; from 2hr to Lípari to 3hr 30min to Alicudi); Messina (12 daily; 1hr 20min). Villa San Giovanni to: Messina (every 20min; 40min).

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AUSTRIA

SWITZERLAND 4 3

HUNGARY

SLOVENIA CROATIA

7

BOSNIAHERZEGOVINA

FRANCE

8

10 MONTENEGRO

9 Corsica (Fr.)

SERBIA

5

1 2

6

11

ADRIATIC SEA

12 14 13

15

17 TYRRHENIAN SEA

IONIAN SEA 16 ALGERIA

0

100 km

TUNISIA

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CHAPTER 16

Highlights

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| Highlights

✱

Monreale The magniﬁcently mosaiced cathedral is a testament to Sicily’s eclectic Arab, Norman and Byzantine heritage. See p.889

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The Aeolian Islands An archipelago of seven islands with active volanoes, lava beaches, fractured coastlines and whitewashed villages. See p.893

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Coastal nature reserves Nature reserves such as Zingaro and Vendicari provide respite from the overdevelopment of much of the island’s coast. See p.923 & p.939

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Val di Noto This valley, stretching from Noto to Ragusa, is full of splendid Baroque towns, built after an earthquake, and now enjoying a renaissance, spurred on by UNESCO. See p.924 & p.925

✱

Valley of the Temples, Agrigento A spectacular sight, especially at night when the towering Doric columns are artfully ﬂoodlit. See p.928

✱ Mount Etna It’s an eerie climb up the blackened lunar landscape of this smoking volcano, dominating the landscape of eastern Sicily. See p.908

✱ Siracusa Classical dramas are staged every summer in the city’s spectacular ancient Greek theatre, while the Baroque and medieval tangle of Ortigia, surrounded by sea, has yearround appeal. See p.915

✱ Villa Romana del Casale, Piazza Armerina The vitality, colour and diversity of the mosaics at this Roman villa are not to be missed. See p.932

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Tempio della Concordia, Agrigento

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I like Sicily extremely – a good on-the-brink feeling – one hop and you’re out of Europe… D.H. Lawrence in a letter to Lady Cynthia Asquith, 1920

ost Sicilians consider themselves, and their island, a separate entity. Coming from the Italian mainland, it’s very noticeable that Sicily (Sicilia) has a different feel, that socially and culturally you are all but out of Europe. The largest island in the Mediterranean, and with a strategically vital position, Sicily has a history and outlook derived not from its modern parent but from its erstwhile foreign rulers – from the Greeks who ﬁrst settled the east coast in the eighth century BC, through a dazzling array of Phoenicians, Carthaginians, Romans, Arabs, Normans, French and Spanish, to the Bourbons seen off by Garibaldi in 1860. Substantial relics of these ages remain, with temples, theatres and churches scattered about the whole island. But there are other, more immediate hints of Sicily’s unique past. Sicilian dialect, for example, is still widely spoken in both cities and countryside, varying from place to place; and the food is noticeably different from elsewhere in Italy, spicier and with more emphasis on ﬁsh and vegetables; even the ﬂora echoes the change of temperament – oranges, lemons (introduced by the Arabs), prickly pears and palms are ubiquitous. A visit here still induces a real sense of arrival. The standard approach for those heading south from the mainland is to cross the Straits of Messina, from Villa San Giovanni or Reggio di Calabria: this way, the train-ferry pilots a course between Scylla and Charybdis, the twin hazards of rock and whirlpool that were a legendary threat to sailors. Coming in by plane, too, there are spectacular approaches to the coastal airports at Palermo, Trápani and Catania. Once you’re on land, deciding where to go is largely a matter of time. Inevitably, most points of interest are on the coast: the interior of the island is mountainous, sparsely populated and relatively inaccessible, though in parts extremely beautiful. The capital, Palermo, is a ﬁlthy, bustling, noisy city with an unrivalled display of Norman art and architecture and Baroque churches, combined with a warren of medieval streets and markets. Heading east, there’s no better place in Sicily for a traditional family sea, sun and sand holiday than Cefalù, with a magniﬁcent golden sandy beach and a mellow medieval core overlooked by a beetling castle-topped crag. An hour or so further east is the workaday port of Milazzo, departure point for the Aeolian Islands, an archipelago of seven islands. Here you can climb two active volcanoes, laze on lava beaches, snorkel over bubbling underwater fumaroles, and wallow in warm, reeking, sulphurous mud baths.

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Regional food and wine

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Sicily’s food has been inﬂuenced by the island’s endless list of invaders, including Greeks, Arabs, Normans and Spanish, even the English, each of them leaving behind them traces of their gastronomy. Dishes such as orange salads and unguent sweetsour abergine and, of course, couscous evoke North Africa, while Sicily’s most distinctive pasta dish spaghetti con le sarde – with sardines, pine nuts, wild fennel and raisins – is thought to date back to the ﬁrst foray into Sicily, at Mazara, by an Arab force in 827. The story goes that the army cooks were ordered to forage around for food, and found sardines at the port, wild fennel growing in the ﬁelds, and raisins drying in the vineyards. Religious festivals too, are often associated with foods: for example at San Giuseppe, on March 19, altars are made of bread, and at Easter you will ﬁnd pasticcerias full of sacriﬁcal lambs made of marzipan, and Gardens of Adonis (trays of sprouting lentils, chickpeas and other pulses) placed before church altars to symbolize the rebirth of Christ. The last has its roots in fertility rites that pre-date even the arrival of the Greeks to the island. Sicily is famous for its sweets too, like rich cassata, ponge cake ﬁlled with sweet ricotta cream and covered with pistachio marzipan, and cannoli – crunchy tubes of deep-fried pastry stuffed with sweet ricotta. Street food is ubiquitous in cities such as Palermo, dating back to the eighteenth century when wood was rationed, and few people were able to cook at home: deep-fried rice balls, potato croquettes and chickpea-ﬂour fritters compete with dinky-sized pizzas. Naturally, ﬁsh such as anchovies, sardines, tuna and swordﬁsh are abundant – indeed, it was in Sicily that the technique of canning tuna was invented. Cheeses are pecorino, provolone, caciocavallo and, of course, the sheep’smilk ricotta which goes into so many of the sweet dishes. Traditionally wine-making in Sicily was associated mainly with sweet wines such as Malvasia and the fortiﬁed Marsala – in the nineteenth century many a fortune was made providing Malvasia to the Napoleonic army – but the island has also made a name for itself as a producer of quality everyday wines found in supermarkets throughout Italy, such as Corvo, Regaleali, Nicosia, Settesoli and Tria. There are superb wines too – notably Andrea Franchetti’s prize-winning Passopisciaro, from the north slopes of Etna – as well as wines across a wide price range from producers such as Tasca d’Almerita, Baglio Hopps, Planeta, Morgante and Murgo.

The islands are also linked by hydrofoil with the major port of Messina, separated from mainlaind Italy by the Straits of Messina. If you are travelling to Sicily overland from Italy, Messina will unavoidably be your point of arrival. Devasted by an earthquake and tidal wave in 1908, it is a modern city of little charm and unlikely to hold your interest for long. The most obvious target from here is the almost too charming hill-town of Taormina, spectacularly located on a rocky bluff between the Ionian Sea and the soaring peak of Mount Etna. For a gutsier taste of Sicily, head to Catania, the island’s second city, intellectual and cultured, with a compact Baroque core of black lava and white limestone, and two exuberant markets. From Taormina or Catania, a skirt around the foothills, and even better, up to the craters of Mount Etna, is a must. In the south of the island is Siracusa, once the most important city of the Greek world, and beyond it, the Val di Noto, with an alluring group of Baroque towns centring on Ragusa. The south coast’s greatest draw are the Greek temples at Agrigento, while inland, Enna is typical of the mountain towns that provided defence for a succession of the island’s rulers. Close by is Piazza Armerina and its Roman mosaics, while to the west, most of Sicily’s ﬁshing industry – and much of the continuing Maﬁa activity (see box, p.874) – focuses on the area around Trápani. To see all these places, you’ll need at least a couple of weeks – more like a month if you want to travel extensively inland, a slower and more traditional experience altogether.

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Castellammare

Palermo

Ústica Alicudi

TYRRHENIAN SEA

Naples

Cagliari

Vulcano

Lípari

Lípari

Salina

Panarea

d'Orlando

A20

Messina

Strómboli

Riserva Naturale Milazzo Laghetti di Capo Marinello Tyndaris

Filicudi

Aeolian Islands

Villa San Giovanni

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SICILY

Pantelleria

Sciacca

San Leone

Lampedusa & Linosa

Porto Empédocle

Licata

Caltanissetta

Agrigento

Sant’ Angelo Muxaro

Scala dei Turchi

Eraclea Minoa

Marinella

Selinunte

MEDITERRANEAN SEA

Mazara del Vallo

Gela

Villa Romana del Casale

Enna

Santo Stéfano di Camastra

Donnalucata

Marina di Ragusa

Vittória

Comiso

Caltagirone

Piazza Armerina Megara Hyblaea

Sampieri

Scicli

Módica

Ragusa Riserva Naturale di Vendicari

Siracusa

Augusta

Pachino Portopalo di Capo Passero

Noto

Palazzolo Acreide

Lentini

Catania

Malta

IONIAN SEA

Réggio di Castroreale Patti Calabria San Vito lo Capo PELORITANI MTS. Solunto Cefalù Monreale Sant’Agata SS185 TérminiI Scopello di Militello Savoca Bagheria merese Santa Teresa A2 Castelbuono 0 Égadi Islands LévanzoTrápani Érice di Riva Randazzo Piana degli Mistretta NEBRODI MTS. Birgi Taormina Himera Castiglione Cáccamo Alcamo Albanesi Maréttimo Bronte Airport di Sicilia Francavilla di Sicilia Troina MADONIE MTS. Favignana Segesta GiarreMózia Corleone Gangi Nicosia Mt. Etna Riposto Salemi Prizzi A19 Agira SS188 Adrano Leonforte Marsala Acireale Calascibetta Paternó Castelvetrano A19

50 km

Livorno

A18

Cagliari

Tunis

Genoa

|

Tunis, Kelibia & Sousse

Tunis

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A29

873

Getting around

Getting around Sicily can be a protracted business. Trains along the northern and eastern coasts (Messina–Palermo and Messina–Siracusa) are extensions of – or connect with – trains from Rome and Naples, and delays of over an hour are frequent. Buses are generally quicker. There’s no single bus company – Interbus, SAIS and AST are the main three, and each has a website (see p.888). Expect little (if any) service anywhere on a Sunday.

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Palermo and around

| Palermo and around

Palermo is fast, brash, ﬁlthy and exciting. Exotic Arabic cupolas ﬂoat above exuberant Baroque facades, high-fashion shops compete with raffish street markets, and walls of graffitied municipal cement abut the crumbling shells of collapsing palazzi sprouting clusters of prickly pear. Add to this a constant soundtrack of sputtering, swirling traffic, and some of the most anarchic driving in Europe, and you’ll quickly see that this is not a city for the faint-hearted. With Sicily’s greatest concentration of sights, and the biggest historic centre in Italy bar Rome, Palermo is a complex, multilayered city that can easily feel overwhelming if you try to do or see too much. The best thing to do here is just to wander as the fancy takes you, sifting through the city’s jumbled layers of crumbling architecture, along deserted back alleys, then suddenly emerging in the midst of an ebullient street market. If you only have a day, select an area (La Kalsa, with its two museums, for example, or the sprawling markets of Ballarò or Capo), and explore: have a couple of target sights in

The Mafia

874

Whatever else the Maﬁa is, it isn’t an organization that impinges upon the lives of tourists. For most Sicilians, maﬁa with a small m is so much a way of life and habit of mind that they don‘t even think about it. If a Sicilian lends a neighbour a bag of sugar, for example, both will immediately be aware of a favour owed, and the debtor uncomfortable until the favour has been returned, and balance restored. As for allegience to friends, it would be very rare indeed for a Sicilian, asked to recommend a hotel or restaurant, to suggest that you go to one that does not belong to a friend, relative, or someone who forms part of his personal network of favours. The Maﬁa, with a capital M, began life as an early medieval conspiracy, created to protect the family from oppressive intrusions of the state. Existing to this day, Sicily continues to endure this system of allegiance, preferment and patronage of massive self-perpetuating proportions, from which few local people proﬁt. In many parts of the region, owners of shops and businesses are expected to give pizzo (protection money) to the local Maﬁa. Though efforts to resist the Maﬁa continue, with local businesses in Palermo and Siracusa, for example, banding together to refuse to pay pizzo, it is not uncommon for the Maﬁa to have the power to close down the enterprises of refuseniks. And despite headline-hitting arrests, such as that of Maﬁa Don Bernardo Provenzano in 2006, local newspapers are daily ﬁlled with evidence of Maﬁa activity – such as the bizarre discovery in early 2010 by agents studying Google Earth maps, of a clandestine race-track near Pachino.

Occupying a superb position in a wide bay beneath the limestone bulk of Monte Pellegrino, Palermo was originally a Phoenician, then a Carthaginian colony. Its mercantile and strategic attractions were obvious, and under Saracen and Norman rule in the ninth to twelfth centuries it became the greatest city in Europe, famed both for the wealth of its court, and as an intellectual and cultural melting pot that brought together the best of Western and Arabic thought. There are plenty of relics from this era, but it’s the rebuilding of the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries that really shaped the city centre. In the nineteenth century, wealthy Palermitani began to shun the centre for the elegant suburbs of new “European” boulevards and avenues to the north of Piazza Politeama, that still retain some ﬁne Art Nouveau buildings. During World War II Allied bombs destroyed much of the port area and the medieval centre (including seventy churches), and for decades much of central Palermo remained a ramshackle bombsite. It is only recently that funds from Rome and the EU have united with political willpower to kickstart the regeneration of the historic centre, though as hundreds of abandoned buildings still testify, there is still a way to go.

| Palermo: Arrival, information and transport

Some history

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mind by all means, but don’t neglect to wander up any particular alley or street that takes your interest. If, on the other hand, you want to see all the major sights and leave time to explore the labyrinthine historical centre at random, allow at least four days in cool weather. In summer, Palermo is far too hot to be comfortable between noon and around 5pm, so avoid it or schedule in a leisurely lunch and siesta. The essential sights are pretty central and easy to cover on foot. Paramount are the hybrid Cattedrale and nearby Palazzo dei Normanni (Royal Palace); the glorious Norman churches of La Martorana and San Giovanni degli Eremiti; the Baroque San Giuseppe dei Teatini and Santa Caterina; and ﬁrst-class museums of art and archeology (when it reopens in 2012). If the urban grit and grime become overwhelming, head to the ﬁne beach at Mondello (see p.888), to the famous medieval cathedral of Monreale (see p.889), or take a ferry or hydrofoil to the tiny volcanic island of Ústica (see p.889), 60km northwest.

Arrival, information and transport Palermo’s Falcone Borsellino airport (T 800.541.880, W www.gesap.it) is at Punta Raisi, 31km west of the city. Buses (Prestia & Comandè T 091.580.457, W www .prestiaecomande.it) run into the city every thirty minutes from 5am until midnight, taking forty-ﬁve minutes, and stop outside Politeama theatre, Stazione Maríttima, and at Stazione Centrale; tickets (€5.80) on board. For the return, departures are at 4am, 5am and then every thirty minutes until 11pm. Trains (€5.50) run from the airport to Stazione Centrale at 5.54am, 7.20am, and then on the hour and at 20 past the hour until 9.20pm, with the ﬁnal departure at 10.05pm. From Stazione Centrale they leave at 4.45am, 5.09am, 6.07am and then every 30 minutes between 7.09am and 8.09pm. The airport ticket office number is T 091.704.4007. Note that if laterarriving ﬂight schedules are added in the future, timetabling may change. All trains arrive at the Stazione Centrale at the southern end of Via Roma, and the majority of the country- and island-wide buses (see p.888 for details) operate out of Via Paolo Balsamo alongside. Bus #101 runs from the station along Via Roma to Via della Libertà. It has its own priority lane, so is much faster than most

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| Palermo

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A UCA V IA DA V E N T U R DELL

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VIA I RISP OC ESC C N FRA LUPO

EATING & DRINKING Antica Focacceria San Francesco Casa del Brodo Casa Obatola Cibus Franco ‘U Vastiddaru Friggitoria Chiluzzo I Cuochini Il Mirto e la Rosa Il Siciliano Ima Sushi Locanda del Tinto Mazzara Michele alla Brace Mi Manda Piccone Obika Osteria dei Vespri Osteria lo Bianco Osteria Paradiso Palazzo Riso Pizzeria Italia Primavera Rosciglione Santandrea Spinnato Trattoria Piccolo Napoli Trattoria Torrenuzza

17 16 20 5 15 21 9 6 11 13 3 10 1 19 13 24 4 7 22 12 23 25 14 8 2 18

CENTRAL PALERMO

Ferries to Cagliari, Genoa, Livorno, Ustica & Naples, hydrofoils to Ustica, Cefalu & Aeolian Islands

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| Palermo: Arrival, information and transport 878

of the city’s other services. Even the linea gialla and linea rossa, little buses that run through the centro storico, passing by the station, get terribly snarled up in the traffic. All ferry and hydrofoil services (see p.888) dock at the Stazione Maríttima, just off Via Francesco Crispi. A free navetta bus meets arrivals and will take you to the port entrance, from where it’s a ten-minute walk up Via E. Amari to Piazza Castelnuovo. Bus #139 connects the port with Stazione Centrale, though it is rather infrequent, so it is better to walk up Via E. Amari to Piazza Politeama from where buses #101 or #102, and the linea rossa, run regularly to the train station. Driving in the city is best avoided. Overtaking on both sides is the norm, and indicating virtually unheard of. Blackmarket parking attendants will guide you to a space and charge you a small amount (50 cents or so per hr), while meters are installed in some parts of the centre. Renting a bike (see p.888) is an alternative for the steely nerved.

Information Palermo’s provincial tourist office, Piazza Castelnuovo 34 (Mon–Fri 8.30am– 2pm & 2.30–6pm; T 091 605.8531, W www.palermotourism.com), has free maps of the city and province, free booklets containing current events and transport information, as well as lists of accommodation. There is also a branch at the airport (Mon–Fri 8.30am–7.30pm, Sat 8.30am–2pm; T 091.591.698). More handy, though, and often very well informed, are several little information points run by the comune, scattered through the city centre in small kiosks, at Politeama, Via Cavour opposite Feltrinelli, the port, Piazza Indipendenza, Piazza Bellini, and at the Stazione Centrale, with branches too in Mondello and Sferracavallo. (All are open Sat–Wed 9am–1pm & 3–7pm, Thurs & Fri 9am–1pm & 3–6pm.) For more complete city listings pick up a copy of the local paper, Il Giornale di Sicilia, or look out for the more youth-oriented Lapis (free).

City transport City buses (AMAT; T 091.350.111, W www.amat.pa.it) cover every corner of Palermo as well as Monreale and Mondello. There’s a ﬂat fare of €1.30 valid for 90min, or you can buy an all-day ticket for €3.50, while tickets for the linea gialla, linea rossa and linea verde, and the circolare (which all weave in and out and over the centro storico) minibus services, cost just €0.52 for a day’s use – buy them from AMAT booths outside Stazione Centrale, at the southern end of Viale della Libertà, in tabacchi and anywhere else you see the AMAT sign. Validate tickets in the machine at the back of the bus as you board. The main city bus rank is outside Stazione Centrale and buses run until midnight (11.30pm on Sun). There are taxi ranks outside the train station and in other main piazzas, or call T 091.513.311, 255.455 or 339.408.5713). The minimum fare is €4.50; if the driver doesn’t want to switch the meter on, agree a fare you are prepared to pay ﬁrst – not a bad strategy if there is more than one taxi driver about, as they’ll probably bid for custom! For a good reliable official taxi driver who charges less than most call Pino T 328.374.5341, who will do the airport run for €40, and Stazione Centrale to the port for €10. Taking a horse-drawn carriage, a carrozza, is a suitably kitsch way to see the city. They tout for business alongside Piazza Pretoria or by the cathedral: there is no ﬁxed rate, so agree a price ﬁrst. If you’re adept on two wheels, biking is not a bad option: as long as you realize the rules of the road – he who hesitates is lost, and go for the gap – weaving your way in and out of the traffic can be an exhilarating way to save time and legwork. For the more adventurous, scooter rental is also available. Details of scooter and bike rental outlets are given in “Listings” (p.888).

Accommodation

and stands outside the city centre above the marina of Acquasanta. It has a swimming pool overlooking the port, though chain-hotel trappings (endlessly repeated photos of famous guests, overcharging for internet etc) mean that it doesn’t live up to its name. Popular with tour groups and often full, so book ahead. Good deals via the website. 8 La Casa dei Limoni Piazza Giulio Cesare 9 T334.834.3888 or 338.967.8907, W www .lacasadeilimoni.it. Clean, friendly B&B right opposite the train station. Great value for money, and the perfect place to stay if you arrive late or have to leave early. 1 La Dimora del Genio Via Garibaldi 58 T347.658.7664, Wwww.ladimora delgenio.it. Four cosy rooms in a centrally heated seventeenth-century palazzetto, furnished with a tasteful blend of antiques, modern furniture, and original paintings by Palermo artist Maurizio Muscolino. Not all rooms have en-suite bathrooms, so avoid those if you don’t like padding around at night in your pyjamas. The friendly owner is a talented cook, and offers cooking courses for guests, as well as a splendid Sunday dinner for €30 a head. 2 La Dimora del Guiscardo Via Vetriera 83–5 T328.662.6074, W www.ladimoradelguiscardo .it. Funky little B&B in the heart of La Kalsa, close to the area’s bars and restaurants. Clean, simple rooms, and a sole shared bathroom. 1 L’Arabo e il Normanno Piazza d’Orleans 10 T091.652.3417 or 339.336.5607, W www .laraboeilnormannobb.com. Little B&B run by a charming couple. It is right opposite the Orleans metro stop, so ideal if you are arriving late from the airport. Five percent of proﬁts go to a Third World charity. They also have a couple of apartments to rent in Trápani, useful if you are ﬂying out from Birgi airport. 2

| Palermo: Accommodation

Alla Kala Corso Vittorio Emanuele 71 T 091.743.4763, W www.allakala.it. Five stylish designer rooms with magniﬁcent views of the sailing marina, and a keen following among those in the know. 3 BB22 Palazzo Pantelleria, Largo Cavalieri di Malta 22 T 091.611.1610 or 335.790.8733, W www.bb22.it. Faultless Milanese designer-chic (resinated cement ﬂoors, perspex chairs, walls painted in matt hues of stone) blended with a feeling of being at home (free wi-ﬁ, coffee and water) in a historic palazzo a few steps from the Vucciria market. Breakfast is served on a small roof terrace. The owners also organize food and wine tours, in both Palermo and further aﬁeld in Sicily. 4 Giardini dell’Alloro Vicolo S. Carlo 8 T 091.617.6904 or 338.224.3541, W www.giardinodellalloro.it. Lovely B&B in the heart of La Kalsa with books for guests to borrow, a courtyard where breakfast is served, and a living room used as an exhibition space for contemporary Sicilian artists. The ﬁve rooms each feature original works of art, and all have kettles and mugs. There is a small kitchen for the use of guests, and a small spa is being built in the garden. 2 Grand Hotel et des Palmes Via Roma 398 T 091.602.811, Wwww.grandhoteletdespalmes .com. Although it may no longer have the cachet it had in the days when guests included Wagner, the Des Palmes remains a comfortable four-star chain hotel conveniently located on the main Via Roma. Some of the rooms are huge, and there are often substantial discounts via internet bookings in low season. 5 Grand Hotel Villa Igiea Via Belmonte 43 T 091.631.2111, W www.villaigiea.hilton.com. This classic Art Nouveau building, originally a villa of the Florio family (the people who pioneered tuna canning), was designed by Ernesto Basile in 1900,

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If you arrive late and need a place on spec, most of Palermo’s budget hotels lie on and around the southern ends of Via Maqueda and Via Roma, close to Stazione Centrale. However, you will get far more for your money staying in one of the new wave of B&Bs, known for their good service. The youth hostel, Baia del Corallo (T 091.679.7807, W www.ostellopalermo.it; €18, double or family room 1) is by the sea 12km northwest of the city: take bus #101 from the train station to Piazza de Gaspari, and then bus #628 to Punta Matese. If you prefer to stay in an apartment, try the Palazzo Conte Federico (T 091.6511881, W www.contefederico .com), a magniﬁcent (if chilly) palace built over the Punic city walls, close to the Ballarò market, which has several apartments for rent for €150 per night, or Orizzonte Rosso (T 333.663.8666, W www.orizzonterosso.com), which also organizes upmarket boat trips and tailormade excursions all over Sicily.

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| Palermo: The City

Letizia Via dei Bottai 30 T091.589.110, W www.hotelletizia.com. Each room in this delightful hotel, just off Piazza Marina, has its own colour scheme and furnishings. There’s an enclosed courtyard for breakfast, and free internet access for guests. 2 Palazzo Pantaleo Via Ruggero Settimo 74/H T 091.325.471 or 335.700.6091, W www.palazzopantaleo.it. Outstanding, this shipshape B&B has seven huge, light, airy rooms in an eighteenth-century palazzo on a quiet piazzetta off a major shopping street, a short walk from Piazza Politeama. Great attention to the kind of details that matter if you are on business – instant access in all rooms, and sockets supplied with adapters so that you can charge your mobile phone. On top of that, is respect for the privacy and independence of guests. On the upper ﬂoor is an apartment, and there is also a small kitchen where you can make drinks or snacks. 3 Paradiso Via Schiavuzzo 65 T 091.617.2825. The windows of this basic, old-fashioned ﬁrst-ﬂoor pensione overlook the Piazza della Rivoluzione. It’s good and central, the couple who run it are a delight, and the ten rooms without bath are among the cheapest in town. No credit cards. 1

Quattro Quarti Palazzo Arone di Valentino, Corso Vittorio Emanuele 376 T091.583.687 or 347.854.7209, Wwww.quattroquarti.it. A superior B&B with four smart, elegant rooms in part of a huge palazzo owned by the Arone di Valentino family. Guests are very well looked after, making this a great place to consider if you are a little nervous about ﬁnding your feet in Palermo. In the main part of the palace, there is a plush suite of rooms furnished with antiques. 3 Ucciard Home Via Enrico Albanese 34–36 T091.348.426, Wwww.hotelucciardhome .com. Trendy designer hotel opposite the prison, with sixteen comfortable, stylish rooms and lovely, luxurious bathrooms. Internet deals can be fantastic. 6 Vecchio Borgo Via Quintino Sella 1–7 T091.611.8330, Wwww.hotelvecchioborgo.eu. A smart and appealing hotel between the Piazza Politeama and one of Palermo’s best weekend markets. Comfortable rooms with bold printed fabrics and all amenities (including internet points). Excellent breakfast, including home-made cakes. Garage €10 a night, outdoor car-park free, but spaces limited. Worth checking the website for offers that can make it cheaper than many B&Bs. 3

The City Historical Palermo sits around a crossroads, the Quattro Canti, a gleaming Baroque crossroads that divides old Palermo into its quadrants. The Albergheria and Capo quarters lie roughly west of Via Maqueda; the Vucciria and La Kalsa lie to the east, closest to the water. You’ll ﬁnd virtually all the surviving ancient monuments and buildings of the city in these four areas.

Around the Quattro Canti

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On the southwest corner of Quattro Canti (entrance on Corso Vittorio Emanuele), San Giuseppe dei Teatini (summer Mon–Sat 7.30–11am & 6–8pm, Sun 8.30am–12.30pm & 6–8pm; winter Mon–Sat 7.30am–noon & 5.30–8pm), begun in 1612, is the most harmonious of the city’s Baroque churches. Outside, across Via Maqueda, is Piazza Pretoria, ﬂoodlit at night to highlight the nude ﬁgures of its great central fountain, a racy sixteenth-century Florentine design. The piazza also holds the restored Municipio, while towering above both square and fountain is the massive ﬂank of Santa Caterina (April–Oct Mon–Sat 9.30am–1.30pm & 3–7pm, Sun 9.30am–1.30pm; Nov Mon–Sat 9.30am–1pm & 3–5.30pm, Sun 9.30am–1pm; Dec–March daily 9.30am–1pm), Sicilian Baroque at its most exuberant, every inch of the enormous interior covered in a wildly decorative relief-work. Piazza Bellini, just around the corner, is the site of two more wildly contrasting churches. The little Saracenic red domes belong to San Cataldo, a perfectly proportioned twelfth-century Byzantine chapel ﬂooded with light (March–Oct Mon–Sat 9am–2pm & 3.30–7pm, Sun 9am–2pm; Nov–Feb daily 9am–2pm, 22 Dec–6 Jan daily 9am–5pm; €1). Never decorated, it retains a good mosaic ﬂoor.

San Cataldo’s understatement is more than offset by the splendid intricacy of the adjacent La Martorana (winter Mon–Sat 9.30am–1pm & 3.30–5.30pm, Sun 8.30am–9.45am & noon–1pm; summer Mon–Sat 9.30am–1pm & 3.30–6.30pm, Sun 8.30am–9.45am & noon–1pm; free) – one of the ﬁnest survivors of the medieval city. With a Norman foundation, the church received a Baroque goingover in 1588. Happily, the alterations don’t detract from the power of the interior, entered through the slim twelfth-century campanile, which retains its ribbed arches and slender columns. A series of spectacular mosaics, animated twelfthcentury Greek works, is laid on and around the columns supporting the main cupola. Two original mosaic panels have been set in frames on the walls just inside the entrance to the church: a kneeling George of Antioch (the church’s founder) dedicating La Martorana to the Virgin, and King Roger being crowned by Christ.

| Palermo: The City

The Albergheria district just to the northwest of the train station hasn’t changed substantially for several hundred years. A maze of tiny streets and tall leaning buildings, it’s an engaging place to wander, much of the central area taken up by a street market that all but conceals several ﬁne churches. Via Ponticello leads down past the Baroque church of Il Gesù, or Casa Professa (daily 7am–noon & 4–6.30pm), the ﬁrst Jesuit foundation in Sicily and gloriously decorated inside, to Piazza Ballarò – along with adjacent Piazza del Carmine the focus of a raucous daily market, with bulging vegetable stalls, unmarked drinking dens and gutsy snack stalls selling pane e milza and pane e panelle. At the westernmost edge of the quarter, over Via Benedettini, is the Albergheria’s quietest haven, the deconsecrated church of San Giovanni degli Eremiti (winter daily 9am–5pm; summer daily 9am–6.30pm; €6) – St John of the Hermits. Built in 1132, it’s the most obviously Arabic of the city’s Norman relics, with ﬁve ochre domes topping a small church that was built upon the remains of a mosque.

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The Albergheria

Palazzo dei Normanni From San Giovanni it’s a few paces to the main road, where, if you turn right and then veer left up the steps, you’ll climb out of the fast traffic to gaze on the vast length of the Palazzo dei Normanni, or Palazzo Reale, with its entrance behind on Piazza Indipendenza (Mon–Sat 8.15am–5.45pm, with last entry at 5pm; sometimes closes at 4.15pm for weddings; Royal Apartments open Fri–Mon only 8.15am–5.45pm, last entry at 5pm; entry Fri–Sun including Royal Apartments €8.50, entry Tues–Thurs excluding Royal Apartments €7). Originally built by the Saracens, the palace was enlarged considerably by the Normans, under whom it housed the most magniﬁcent of medieval European courts – a noted centre of poetic and artistic achievement. Most of the interior is now taken up by the Sicilian Regional Parliament (which explains the security guards, the limited opening hours, and frequent closures of all or part of the complex). Wedding receptions can also lead to early closing. Be prepared to queue. The showpiece of the Royal Apartments is undoubtedly the Sala di Ruggero, one of the earliest parts of the palace and richly covered with a twelfth-century mosaic of hunting scenes. The highlight of the visit, however, is the beautiful Cappella Palatina, the private royal chapel of Roger II, built between 1132 and 1143, and the undisputed artistic gem of central Palermo, its cupola, three apses and nave entirely covered in mosaics of outstanding quality. The oldest are those in the cupola and apses, probably completed in 1150 by Byzantine artists; those in the nave are from the hands of local craftsmen, ﬁnished twenty-odd years later and depicting Old and New Testament scenes. The colours are vivid and, as usual in Byzantine art, the

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powerful image of Christ as Pantocrator (creator of everything) dominates. Aside from the mosaics, the chapel has a delightful and recently restored Arabic ceiling with richly carved wooden stalactites, a patterned marble ﬂoor and an impressive marble Norman candlestick (by the pulpit), 4m high and contorted by manic carvings.

The Cattedrale

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Spanning Corso Vittorio Emanuele, the early sixteenth-century Porta Nuova commemorates Charles V’s Tunisian crusade with grim, moustachioed turbaned prisoners adorning the western entrance. This gate marked the extent of the late medieval city, and the long road beyond heads to Monreale. The Corso runs back towards the centre, past the huge bulk of the Norman Cattedrale (Mon–Sat 7am–7pm, Sun 7am–1.30pm & 4.30–7pm; free). The triple-apsed eastern end and graceful matching towers date from 1185, and despite the Catalan-Gothic facade and arches, there’s enough Norman carving and detail to rescue the exterior from mere curiosity value. The same is not true, however, of the sterile Neoclassical interior. The only items of interest are the ﬁne ﬁfeenthcentury portal and wooden doors and royal tombs, containing the remains of Sicilian monarchs – including Frederick II and his wife, Constance of Aragon. There’s also a treasury (Nov–Feb Mon–Sat 9.30am–1.30pm; March–Oct Mon– Sat 9.30am–5.30pm; €2.50) to the right of the choir, the highlights of which are a jewel-and-pearl-encrusted skullcap and three simple, precious rings, all enterprisingly removed from the tomb of Constance in the eighteenth century.

The Capo From the cathedral you can bear left, around the apses, and up into the Capo quarter, whose tight web of impoverished streets is home to yet another market. Just around the corner from Piazza del Monte is the ﬁne church of Sant’Agostino (Mon–Sat 7am–noon & 4–6pm, Sun 7am–noon; free), built in the thirteenth century. Above its main door (on Via Raimondo) there’s a latticework rose window, and inside, a tranquil sixteenth-century cloister. The stalls of the clothes market (daily 8am to around 8pm) along Via Sant’Agostino run all the way down to Via Maqueda and beyond, the streets off to the left gradually becoming wider and more nondescript as they broach the area around the monumental Neoclassic Teatro Massimo, supposedly the largest theatre in Italy. To appreciate the interior fully take a tour (Tues–Sun every 30min 10.10am–2.30pm, except during rehearsals; €5), or attend one of the classical concerts or operas held here between October and June. The theatre marks the dividing line between old and new Palermo. Via Maqueda becomes the far smarter Via Ruggero Settimo, which cuts up through the gridded shopping streets to the huge double square made up of Piazza Castelnuovo and Piazza Ruggero Settimo (commonly referred to as Piazza Politeama). Dominating the whole lot is Palermo’s other massive theatre, the Politeama Garibaldi, topped by a ﬂamboyant statue group of sword-brandishing ﬁgures on leaping horses.

The Vucciria

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Tucked into the wedge of streets between Via Roma and Corso Vittorio Emanuele, the Vucciria market (daily 8am to around 8pm), once the most famous market in Palermo, is now a shadow of its former self, though it still has several basic bars and ﬁsh trattorias. The northern limit of the market is marked by the distinctive church of San Domenico (Tues–Sun 8.15am–noon, Sat & Sun also 5–7pm; free), with a ﬁne eighteenth-century facade and tombs inside containing a host of famous Sicilians.

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The oratory behind the church (Oratorio del Rosario; Mon–Sat 9am–1pm; free but tipping is usual) contains ﬂuid exuberant decor by seventeeth-century maestro of stucco, Giacomo Serpotta and a masterful Van Dyck altarpiece, painted in 1628 before the artist ﬂed Palermo for Genoa to escape the plague. From Piazza San Domenico, Via Roma continues north, passing (on the left) Palermo’s main post office. Behind this surreal Fascist-era bulk is a sixteenthcentury convent housing the Museo Archeologico Regionale, a magniﬁcent collection of ﬁnds, mainly from western Sicily. The museum is currently closed for restoration but when it reopens, its displays will almost certainly include Egyptian and Punic remains – notably immense Punic tombs bearing the sculptured forms of their occupants – and Roman sculpture including a giant enthroned Zeus. The highlights of the collection, however, are ﬁnds from the temples of Selinunte (see p.941), notably the vivid ﬁfth-century-BC sculpted panels from Temples C and F, such as Perseus beheading the Medusa with a short sword. Look out as well for a glistening, muscular study of Hercules subduing a stag, found at Pompeii, the exquisitely restored bronze ram from Siracusa’s Castello Maniace (see p.919) and beautifully preserved Roman mosaics from Marsala. Heading towards the water from Via Roma, you’ll come to the church of Santa Zita (also known as Santa Cita or San Mamiliano), on quiet Via Squarcialupo, whose marvellous oratory (Mon–Fri 9am–1pm; ring the bell if closed, or ask in the church in front; €2) holds one of Serpotta’s ﬁnest stucco extravaganzas – the Battle of Lepanto. From here streets spread back to the thumb-shaped inlet of La Cala, Palermo’s old harbour. This was once the main port of Palermo, stretching as far inland as Via Roma, but during the sixteenth century silting caused the water to recede to its current position, and La Cala now does duty as a yachting marina.

La Kalsa Via Roma, running parallel to Via Maqueda and Via Ruggero Settimo is a broad, fairly modern addition to the city, all clothes and shoe shops, but there are discoveries aplenty to be made exploring the areas to its east. This southeastern quarter of old Palermo was worst hit during the war, but, after years of decay, it’s sloughing off its desolate image. It’s here that you’ll ﬁnd some of Palermo’s most remarkable buildings and churches, as well as its only central park, Villa Giulia, just a few minutes’ walk along Via Lincoln from the train station and home to an extensive botanical garden (daily 9am to an hour before sunset; €5). Of rather more interest is the nearby church of La Magione (Mon–Sat 9.30am– noon & 3–6.15pm; donation requested). Built in 1151, the simple, sparse Norman church has beautiful cloisters and a chapel, a rare plaster preparation of a cruciﬁxion fresco and a lovely small Arab-Norman column carved with a Koranic inscription. The church backs onto the desolate square of LA KALSA (its name is from the Arabic khalisa, meaning “pure”), at the centre of the eponymous area. La Kalsa was subjected to saturation bombing during World War II, because of its proximity to the port, with the area now occupied by the square taking the brunt of the bombing. Across the square, set back off Via Spasimo, is the complex of Santa Maria dello Spasimo (closed for restoration), a former church, now rooﬂess except for its Gothic apse, that holds atmospheric night-time jazz concerts outside in the courtyard. Via Alloro and around

A block north of the square, Via Alloro is home to the Palazzo Abatellis, a ﬁfteenthcentury palace housing Sicily’s Galleria Regionale (Tues–Sun 8.30am–6.30pm, last entry 5.30pm; €8), a stunning medieval art collection. Inside, there’s a simple split: sculpture downstairs, and paintings upstairs, the one exception being a

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magniﬁcent ﬁfteenth-century fresco, the Triumph of Death, which covers an entire wall of the former chapel. The other masterpiece on the ground ﬂoor is a calm, perfectly studied, white marble bust of Eleanora of Aragon by the ﬁfteenth-century artist Francesco Laurana. Upstairs, there are thirteenth- and fourteenth-century Sicilian works, Byzantine in style, and a ﬁne collection of works by Antonello da Messina (1430–79), including three small portraits of sts Gregory, Jerome and Augustine and a celebrated Annunciation. At the far end of Via Alloro, Piazza Sant’Anna is home to the Convento di Sant’Anna, which has been stunningly restored and opened as the seat of the Galleria d’Arte Moderna (Tues–Sun 9.30am–6.30pm; €7). The collection of nineteenth- and twentieth-century Sicilian works here are displayed thematically (portraits, nudes, mythology, seascapes, landscapes etc) to great effect. Its café, spilling into the courtyard in summer, is one of the loveliest places in the city for lunch or an aperitif. Beyond the gallery, just off Via Alloro, on Vicolo della Neve all’Alloro, the Parco Culturale Giuseppe Tomasi di Lampedusa, named after the author of The Leopard, hosts concerts and readings and cultural events for children, as well as organizing fascinating two-hour guided tours (Mon & Wed–Sun 11am–9pm; T 349.882.2453, W www.parcotomasi.it) of the area in Italian and English, focussing on places associated with Lampedusa and his novel. North of Via Alloro

North of Via Alloro, on Via Merlo, the late eighteenth-century Palazzo Mirto (daily 9am–7pm; €4) is one of the few palazzi in the city to have retained its imposing original ﬁxtures and ﬁttings. Continue along Via Merlo and you’ll reach Piazza Marina, a hectic square dominated by the liana-slung banyan tress of the Giardini Garibaldi. Overlooking the square is the vast Palazzo Chiaramonte, one-time headquarters of the Inquisition, and the more intimate and engaging Museo delle Marionette off Via Butera at Vicolo Niscemi 5 (Mon–Sat 9am–1pm & 2.30–6.30pm, Sun 10am–1pm; W www.museomarionettepalermo.it; €5), a deﬁnitive collection of traditional Sicilian puppets, screens and painted scenery. In summer the museum puts on free shows (Spettacolo dei pupi; T 091.328.060, or ask the tourist office for the current schedule). Beyond the museum, Corso Vittorio Emanuele runs down to the water and ends in the Baroque Porta Felice. The whole area around the gate was ﬂattened in 1943, and has since been rebuilt as the ugly Foro Italico promenade.

The outskirts

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If you are interested in seeing more of Palermo’s Norman relics, bus #124 runs west from the Politeama to La Zisa (from the Arabic, el aziz, “magniﬁcent”), a huge palace begun by William I in 1160, with a ﬁne exterior and a rich, wellcrafted Islamic interior, housing a collection of Islamic art and artefacts (daily 9am–6.30pm; €4.50). Closer to the centre, about 1km beyond Porta Nuova at Corso Calataﬁmi 100, is La Cuba, the remains of a slightly later Norman pavilion that formed part of the same royal park as La Zisa: it’s now tucked inside an army barracks, but has been well restored and includes access to a Punic necropolis (Mon–Sat 9am–6.30pm, Sun 9am–1pm; €2). But for real horror-movie stuff, take bus #327 from Piazza Indipendenza southwest along Via dei Cappuccini as far as Via Pindemonte. Close by, in Piazza Cappuccini, the catacombs of the Catacombe dei Cappuccini (March–Oct daily 8.30am–noon & 2.30–6pm; Nov–Feb daily 9am–12.30pm & 3–5.30pm; €3) is home to some eight thousand mummiﬁed bodies. Preserved by various chemical and drying processes – including the use of vinegar and arsenic baths – the

mummies were dressed in suits of clothes, then placed in niches along rough-cut stone corridors. Descending into the catacombs is quite unnerving, especially if you arrive in a lull between coach parties. Different caverns are reserved for men, women, the clergy, doctors, lawyers and surgeons. Suspended in individual niches, hand-written notes about their necks, the bodies have become vile, contorted, grinning ﬁgures – some decomposed beyond recognition, others complete with skin, hair and eyes.

Eating and drinking

Casa Obatola Via Alloro 16 T 091.982.4442. Relaxing little bar with seats outside on a piazzetta below Via Alloro, good for a rest before or after visiting the nearby Galleria Regionale. Delicious sandwiches and salads, and good pastries. Closed Sun. Cibus Via E. Amari 64. High-class grocery store with a great deli counter, and a wood-ﬁred oven where you can get light blistered pizzas and other savoury pastries to eat in or take away. It is 5min walk from the hydrofoil port, so an ideal place to stock up if you are sailing to Ústica or the Aeolian Islands. Mon–Sat 8.30am–11pm, Sun 8.30am–2pm & 6–11pm. Franco ‘U Vastiddaru Piazza Marina. Palermitani street food such as pane e panelli, arancini, crocchè and pane con la milza (pane ca meusa in Sicilian) – which you can eat at plastic tables on plastic plates with plastic knives and forks on the busy corner of Piazza Marina and Via Vittorio Emanuele. Friggitoria Chiluzzo Piazza Kalsa. Stand under a canopy, drink beer from a bottle, eat pane and pannelle in paper. I Cuochini Via Ruggero Settimo 68. Diminutive, spic-and-span frigittoria – all gleaming white tiles and zinc – founded in 1826, and concealed within an arched gateway along Via Ruggero Settimo (the only sign is a small ceramic plaque). Panzerotti (deep-fried pastries, stuffed with tomato, mozzarella and anchovy, or aubergine, courgette and cheese), arancini (with ragù, or with cheese and ham), pasticcino (a sweet pastry with minced meat), timballini di pasta (deep-fried pasta), and besciamelle fritte (breadcrumbed and deep-fried bechemel) and the like – all at 70c a portion. Mon–Sat 8.30am–2.30pm.

Il Siciliano Via Orologio 37. Cool bar schizophrenically specializing in both hot chocolate and wine, and serving organic produce. Tues–Sun 5pm–2am. Ima Sushi 4th ﬂoor Rinascente, Via Roma/Piazza San Domenico. If you want to pretend you are not in Palermo for a while (and it happens) head up to this sushi bar on the fourth ﬂoor of the Rinascente department store. Colour-coded plates of sushi, California rolls and sashimi on the obligatory conveyor belt, priced at between €2.50 and €7.50. Mazzara Via Magliocco 15 (off Via Ruggero Settimo alongside Rinascente). Long-established bar-pasticceria where Tomasi di Lampedusa is reputed to have penned some of The Leopard. These days it serves light brunch and lunches alongside a dangerous selection of pastries and ice creams: try the rare roast beef with rocket and shaved parmesan. Closed Mon. Michele alla Brace Piazza Borgo Vecchio. At the tiny market of Piazza Borgo Vecchio, you can’t miss this huge grill with a couple of plastic tables and a steaming cauldron of vegetables. Buy your ﬁsh from one of the nearby stalls and bring it to Michele, who will grill it, and provide you with veg, drinks and a table. Closed Wed. Obika 4th ﬂoor Rinascente, Via Roma/Piazza San Domenico T 091.601.7861, W www.obika.it. On the top ﬂoor of the revamped Rinascente department store, this is the Palermo branch of an exclusive chain of bars specializing in meticulously sourced mozzarella di bufala, which appears in exquisitely presented salads and other light dishes. A great lunchtime escape from the heat and chaos of Palermo, and a good place for an aperitif (daily 6.30–9pm), the drinks accompanied by a selection of mouthwatering mozzarella tasters.

| Palermo: Eating and drinking

Cafés and street food

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Vendors in the markets and on numerous street corners sell classic Palermitani street food such as pane e panelli (chickpea-ﬂour fritters served in bread), crocchè (potato croquettes with anchovy and caciocavallo cheese), and pane con la milza (bread with spleen).

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Palazzo Riso Corso Vittorio Emanuele 365 T 091.320.532. Cool, white, minimalist bar belonging to Palermo’s new contemporary art museum. Hazelnut- and chocolate-ﬂavoured coffees, tisanes, cornetti with forest fruits, light lunches and aperitivos. Eat in the bar, or outside in the shady courtyard. Free wi-ﬁ and use of computers. Rosciglione Via Gian Luca Barbieri 5. Watch cannoli being made as you eat them at this bakery (which exports worldwide) on the edge of the Ballarò market. Mon–Sat 7am–2pm & 1.30–6pm, closed Sun. Spinnato Via Principe di Belmonte 107–115. With tables outside on a pedestrianized street, this is the perfect place for breakfast, delicious cakes and ice creams, or an aperitivo served with an aesthetic cascade of roast almonds, shelled pistachios and crisps. Nearby are several other members of the Spinnato empire including Il Golosone, Piazza Castelnuovo 22, which serves up its pastries and ice creams fast-food style; and Al Pinguino, Via Ruggero Settimo 86, a popular and highly rated shrine to ice cream.

Restaurants Antica Focacceria San Francesco Via A. Paternostro 58 T 091.320.264. This old-fashioned place has been in the same family for ﬁve generations. Downstairs they serve traditional Palermitani street food, such as focaccia schietta (focaccia with offal and caciocavallo cheese), sﬁncione (pizza with onion, tomato, caciocavallo and breadcrumbs), crocchè (potato croquettes) and panelle (chick pea ﬂour fritters). Upstairs you can eat full meals (try the pasta con le sarde, pasta with sardines). There are also several ﬁxed-price menus (pannelle, crocchè, an arancino or slice of pizza, cannolo and a drink for €7; or the same, with pasta instead of the arancino or pizza for €8.50). In summer you can eat outside. Closed Tues & mid-Jan. Casa del Brodo Corso Vittorio Emanuele 175 T 091.321.655. Exuberant family-run place on the edge of the Vucciria market, which has been serving up bollito di manzo con patate e zaffarano, meat cooked in broth with potatoes and saffron, for a hundred years or so. You can also have your bollito with salsa verde, or plump for bollito misto which includes tongue and stinco di maiale (pig’s knuckle). Prices are reasonable, and set menus kick off at €16 including a quarter litre of wine. Fresh ﬁsh as well. Closed Sun in summer, Tues in winter. Il Mirto e la Rosa Via Principe di Granitello 30 T 091.324.353. This began life as a vegetarian restaurant, and although

carefully-sourced local ﬁsh and meat have now joined the menu, the emphasis on vegetables remains. It is also one of several businesses in Palermo to have publicly refused to pay pizzo (see box, p.874). Signature dishes include caponata with pistachio-spiked couscous, and home-made tagliolini with a sweet, sticky tomato sauce, grilled aubergine and cheese from the Nebrodi mountains. Finish up with a voluptuous dessert followed by home-made cinnamon liqueur. Eating à la carte you’ll spend around €25 for 3 courses without wine, €30 if you have a dessert, but there are various menu deals (€10 for a primo, secondo and salad, €15 for antipasto, primo, secondo, salad and dessert). Closed Sun. Locanda del Tinto Via XX Settembre 56/A T091.582.137. Urbane place on one of the nineteenth-century boulevards beyond Piazza Politeama, with a constantly changing menu and a lunchtime buffet (€8) or sushi (€18), popular with shoppers and people on lunchbreaks. Deftly made pizza and focaccia in the evenings. Closed Sat and Sun lunch in summer. Mi Manda Piccone Via A. Paternostro 59 T091.616.0660. Enoteca in the old town with a ﬁne choice of mostly Sicilian wines, and an inspired but simple menu that changes with the seasons. Come at around 7pm for an aperitif, or from 8pm for dinner. Spring dishes could include a frittata of fava beans, artichokes and peas served with fresh ricotta, while in summer you might ﬁnd spaghetti with mint, courgettes and capers, followed by swordﬁsh with a pistachio crust and grilled radicchio, or mixed fried ﬁsh with salad. A three-course meal will cost around €30 excluding wine. Eve only, closed Sun. Osteria dei Vespri Piazza Croce dei Vespri T091.617.1631, Wwww.osteriadeivespri.it. Palermo’s best restaurant was begun as a hobby a decade ago and continues to be run with passion by brothers Andrea and Alberto Rizzo, who cook complex meals, with a loyal and intelligent use of local Sicilian ingredients. Dishes might include rabbit terrine with pistachios from Bronte, black tagliolini served with red mullet, ginger, red onion and fresh fava beans, or quail stuffed with prunes served on a puree of cannellini beans and celeriac. A la carte you’ll pay at least €20 per course, while there are degustazione menus at €65 and €85 per person, excluding wine. Closed Sun. Osteria lo Bianco Via E. Amari 104 T091.251.4900. Decorated with Juventus souvenirs and religious bric-a-brac, this is one of the cheapest places to eat in town. Traditional Palermitano food, such as pasta con sarde, polpette (meatballs) in tomato sauce, ricciola in a spicy

| Palermo: Eating and drinking

is known for its key role in Peter Robb’s Midnight in Sicily. Dishes are seasonal and inventive, with a strong emphasis on local ingredients. Book early to eat alfresco. Closed Sun. Trattoria Piccolo Napoli Piazzetta Mulino di Vento 4 T091.320.431. Lively trattoria off the Vecchio Borgo market founded in 1951 and run by three generations of the same family. They have two boats at Terrasini: ﬁsh is brought in daily, and anything not eaten that day is sold on to the local market stalls. Try raw prawns, pasta with neonati (new-born ﬁsh) or what may prove to be the best caponata you will ever taste. Open Mon–Sat for lunch only, Fri & Sat eve also. Trattoria Torrenuzza Via Torrenuzza 17 T 091.252.5532. Bustling, no-frills trattoria where ﬁsh is grilled on an outside brazier. Eat at street-side tables in summer, inside in winter. Antipasti (mussel soup, seafood salad, etc) and primi (pasta with broccoli, with mussels and clams, or with swordﬁsh and aubergine) are all priced at €5, except for a couple of special dishes such as spaghetti with ricci di mare (sea urchin) which ring in at €10. Meat secondi (involtini, charcoal-grilled sausage and the like) are also €5, while ﬁsh dishes (mixed fried or grilled ﬁsh, grilled prawns, grilled sea bream or sea bass) cost from €7–10. Calamari and swordﬁsh are frozen (but none the worse for it), the rest of the ﬁsh is fresh. Wine is a dangerous €3 a litre, so lunch here could well write off your afternoon. Open Mon–Sat lunch and dinner, Sunday lunchtime only.

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tomato sauce, or a stew of beef, peas and carrots. Two courses with wine and fruit for under €15. Closed Sun. Osteria Paradiso Via Serradifalco 23. No phone. Typical family-run trattoria, to the north of La Zisa, open only at lunchtime and specializing in ﬁsh. There is no written menu – the owner just tells you what’s available that day. Specialities include ﬁsh cooked in seawater, raw prawns dressed with olive oil and lemon juice, and deep-fried cicirello, a long skinny silver ﬁsh. Arrive early to get a table. Closed Sun. Pizzeria Italia Via Orologio 54 (opposite Teatro Massimo) T 091.589.885. Attracting large queues, this is the best place in town for light, oven-blistered pizzas (€4–10). Try the “Palermitana” with tomato, anchovies, onion, artichokes, caciocavallo cheese and breadcrumbs. Eve only; closed Mon. Primavera Piazza Bologni 4 T 091.329.408. Not far from the cathedral, off Via Vittorio Emanuele, with outdoor seating in a lovely little piazza across from the Palazzo Riso, this popular, reasonably priced trattoria serves home-style cooking such as pasta con le sarde and bucatini con broccoli. Bottles of good, inexpensive local wine as well. Closed Mon. Santandrea Piazza Sant’Andrea T 091.334.999 or 328.131.4595. Chic, but relaxed family-run place a stone’s throw from Piazza San Domenico and the Vucciria market, that is deﬁnitely one of Palermo’s best restaurants, and

Bars and nightlife The main focus of nightlife is La Kalsa, in particular the streets between Piazza Garibaldi and Piazza Magione, which are packed with bars and pubs. One outstanding place is A Kursaal Kalhesa, Foro Umberto I 24 (closed Sun eve & Mon), a trendy wine-bar-cum-bookshop set within the ancient fortiﬁcations of Arabic Palermo, where they do a great Sunday brunch. In summer it closes and moves out to an atmospheric ex-tonnara at the foot of Monte Pellegrino in the seaside town of Vergine Maria (bus #731), which becomes Il Kursaal Tonnara. Come for an aperitif in its jasmine-scented courtyard, alongside abandoned skeletons of broad wooden tuna-ﬁshing boats, or for one of the frequent concerts, all of which kick off at 10.30pm. There is also a restaurant overlooking the sea, serving light, inventive dishes such as tagliata of swordﬁsh in a sesame crust, and a heavenly pistachio mousse. Back in town, for fabulous wines and nibbles, you won’t do better than the cosy, candle-lit Cama Enoteca, Via Alloro 105 (7pm–2am; closed Mon and summer – when they move out of the city and open a bar on the Égadi island of Maréttimo); the bar staff are welcoming and knowledgeable, and the variety of wines almost overwhelming. For a taste of alternative culture, head to the monumental deconsecrated convent of Nuovo Montevergini (T 320.234.6796) on Piazzetta Montevergine, where there’s a year-round bar and an autumn-to-spring season of exhibitions, live music, bookreadings, theatre and ﬁlm.

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| Listings • Mondello

Bike rental Rent Bike, Via Giardinaccio 66 (off Via Maqueda) T 331.750.7886. €10 per day. Buses AST T 091.620.8111, Wwww.azien dasicilianatrasporti.it (Castelbuono, Monreale, Módica, Comiso and Ragusa); Cuffaro T 091.616.1510, W www.cuffaro.info (Agrigento); Interbus T 091.304.0900 or 091.616.7919, Wwww.interbus.it (Siracusa, Trápani, Érice); SAIS T 091.616.6028, Wwww.saisautolinee.it (Catania, Enna, Piazza Armerina and Messina); Salemi T 091.617.5411 or 0923.981.120, Wwww.autoservizisalemi.it (Marsala and Mazara del Vallo); Segesta T 091.616.9039, Wwww .segesta.it (Trápani). Car rental Avis, Via Francesco Crispi 115 T091.586.940; Hertz, Via Messina 7/E T091.323.439; Maggiore, Stazione Notarbartolo 79 T 091.681.0801; Sicily By Car, Via Mariano Stabile 6/A T 091.581.045. All of these also have desks at Punta Raisi airport. Consulates UK (part-time only), Via Cavour 117 T 091.326.412; US, Via Vaccarini 1 T 091.305.857. For nationals of most other countries, the nearest consulates are in Naples or Rome. Ferry and hydrofoils Grandi Navi Veloci (Grimaldi), services to Livorno, Rome and Tunis (at the port T 091.587.404, W www.gnv.it); NGI to Ústica (in caravan inside port T 091.743.7393,

W www.ngi-spa.it); Siremar, to Ústica (by the port at Via F. Crispi 120 T 091.749.3111, W www .siremar.it); Ústica Lines, to the Aeolian Islands, Cefalù and Naples (ticket ofﬁce in port or at Agenzia Pietro Barbaro, Via Principe di Belmonte 51/55 T 091.333333, W www.usticalines.it); Tirrenia, to Naples and Cágliari (at the port T 892.123, W www.tirrenia.it). Gay and lesbian information ARCI Gay W www .arcigay.it; ARCI Donna W www.arcidonna.it. Hospital Policlinica, Via Carmelo Lazzaro T091.655.1111. For an ambulance call T118. Internet access Along Via Maqueda near the train station, or Aboriginal Café, Via Spinuzza 51, opposite the Teatro Massimo T091.662.2229 or 328.933.0660, Wwww.aboriginalcafe.com (Mon–Sat 9am–3am). Left luggage Stazione Centrale by track 8 T091.603.3040 (daily 7am–11pm); Stazione Maríttima T091.611.3257 (daily 7am–8pm). Pharmacist All-night service at Via Roma 1, Via Roma 207, and Via Mariano Stabile 177. There’s also a list in the daily newspaper Il Giornale di Sicilia. Police Central city station at Piazza della Vittoria T 112. Post ofﬁce Main post ofﬁce is the Palazzo delle Poste on Via Roma (Mon–Sat 8am–6.30pm). Poste restante closes at 1.30pm daily.

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The most obvious trip from central Palermo is the 11km run to MONDELLO, a small seaside resort tucked under the northern bluff of Monte Pellegrino. In summer, tacky sunglasses stalls, hot-dog and burger vans, street-food and pizza places and lidos dominate, but the rest of the year Mondello is more laidback, and even quite charming. Indeed, in low season, there are few better ways of destressing from Palermo than the two-kilometre walk along its sandy beach curving below the beetling crag of Monte Pellegrino, round to a tiny working harbour. On the brash little piazza, the best-loved of the friggitorias was recently closed down by the Maﬁa for refusing to pay pizzo, though there are plenty of imitators if you fancy snacking on pane e pannelle, crocchè and foccaccia con meusa. And you’ll certainly eat better in these than in one of the gaudy seaside restaurants with their displays of dull-eyed ﬁsh. A good option is Calogero, on the seafront at Via Torri 22, where you stand up at the window and eat freshly caught and cooked octopus (they do have chairs and tables too, but standing at the window is more fun). For a sit-down meal, try Trattoria Sympathy (T 091.454.470), beyond the piazza on the Lungomare, where the ﬁsh is spanking fresh. To get to Mondello, take bus #806 or #833 from the Politeama theatre or Viale della Libertà – a thirty-minute ride.

Monreale The marvellous Monreale cloister … conjures up an impression of such grace as to make one want to stay there forever… Guy de Maupassant

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| Monreale • Ústica

The Norman cathedral at MONREALE (Royal Mountain) holds the most impressive and extensive area of Christian medieval mosaic-work in the world, the undisputed apex of Sicilian-Norman art. This small hill-town, 8km southwest of Palermo, commands unsurpassed views down the Conca d’Oro valley, to the capital in the distant bay. Bus #389 runs frequently from Piazza dell’Indipendenza, and the journey takes twenty minutes. The severe, square-towered exterior of the Duomo (daily 8am–6.30pm, Sun 8am–12.30pm & 3–7pm; free) is no preparation for what’s inside. The mosaics were almost certainly executed by Greek and Byzantine craftsmen, and they reveal a unitary plan and inspiration. What immediately draws your attention is the all-embracing half-ﬁgure of Christ in the central apse, the head and shoulders alone almost twenty metres high. Beneath sit an enthroned Madonna and Child, attendant angels and, below, ranks of saints, each individually and subtly coloured and identiﬁed by name. Worth singling out here is the ﬁgure of Thomas à Becket (marked SCS Thomas Cantb), canonized in 1173, just before the mosaics were begun. The nave mosaics are no less remarkable, an animated series that starts with the Creation (to the right of the altar) and runs around the whole church. Most scenes are instantly recognizable: Adam and Eve, Abraham on the point of sacriﬁcing his son, a jaunty Noah’s Ark; even the Creation, shown in a set of glorious, simplistic panels portraying God ﬁlling his world with animals, water, light … and people. Ask at the desk by the entrance to climb the terraces (daily 9.30am–5.30pm, Sun 8am–12.30pm & 3.30–7pm; €1.50) in the southwest corner of the cathedral. The steps give access to the roof and leave you standing right above the central apse – an unusual and precarious vantage point. It’s also worth visiting the cloisters (same hours as Duomo; €6), part of the original Benedictine monastery established here in 1174. The formal garden is surrounded by an elegant arcaded quadrangle, 216 twin columns supporting slightly pointed arches – a legacy of the Arab inﬂuence. No two capitals are the same, each a riot of detail and imagination: armed hunters doing battle with winged beasts, ﬂowers, birds, snakes and foliage. Entrance to the cloisters is from Piazza Guglielmo, in the corner by the right-hand tower of the cathedral. If you want to stay over, try the Carrubella Park Hotel, Via Umberto I 233 (T 091.640.2187, W www.sicilyhotelsnet.it; 4 ), a pleasant family-run place with great views over the valley of the Conca d’Oro.

Ústica A volcanic, turtle-shaped island 60km northwest of Palermo, ÚSTICA is somewhere you could spend an entire holiday, though it is close enough to Palermo for a day-trip – however, travel doesn’t come cheap; expect to pay around €30 return by ferry, €40 by hydrofoil. Ústica’s fertile uplands are just right for a day’s ambling, and there’s a path running round the entire rocky coastline, with just a brief stretch where you have to follow the road. The main reason people come to Ústica, however, is to dive, for its waters are a diver’s paradise, the clear water bursting with ﬁsh, sponges, weed and coral. Less adventurous types can easily take a boat trip through Ústica’s rugged grottoes and lava outcrops.

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| The Tyrrhenian coast • Cefalù

The small rather dishevelled port of Ústica Town, where the boats dock, has a few bars, a bank, several restaurants and a handful of places to stay. All these sit around a sloping double piazza, just ﬁve minutes’ walk uphill from the harbour. If you’re coming to dive, ﬁrst choice is Profondo Blu (T 091.844.9609 or 349.672.6529, W www.ustica-diving.it) run by a Belgo-Italian couple of diveenthusiasts with decades of experience throughout the world. Dive trips are well organized, with hot showers and cups of tea on board the boat, as well as racks for diving gear. Whether diving or not, you might want to consider staying in one of their mini-apartments (2 ), a couple of kilometres outside town, where you could cook at home, and eat on your own terrace, or join the divers for hearty meals under a pergola. Ústica Town has a couple of decent hotels: the smartish Clelia, at Via Magazzino 7 (T 091.844.9039, W www.hotelclelia.it; 2 –3 ), with a roof terrace overlooking the sea, and the more basic Ariston, Via della Vittoria 5 (T 091.844.9042, W www .usticahotels.it; 2 ), which has simple rooms with fabulous sea-views and can arrange diving and boat trips; it also has apartments to rent around the island. For eating ﬁrst choice is Giulia at Via San Francesco 13 (T 091.844.9007), where you should try pennette dressed with locally grown basil, parsley, chilli, oregano, garlic, pine nuts, raisins, anchovies, capers and olives. Giulia also has several clean and basic rooms (2 ) above the restaurant, that are among the island’s cheapest. Finally, don’t miss visiting Maria Cristina, just above the piazzas at Via Petriera 5, to buy wonderful Ústica lentils, home-made jam, pesto and sauces, and bottled tuna and other ﬁsh to take home.

The Tyrrhenian coast From Palermo, the whole of the rugged Tyrrhenian coast is hugged by rail, road and motorway, and for the most part, pretty built up. The ﬁrst attraction is Cefalù, a beach resort and cathedral town. Beyond Cefalù, there are several resorts tucked along the narrow strip of land between the Nebrodi mountains and the sea, most of them not worth going out of your way for. The lovely Riserva Naturale Laghetti di Marinello, however, is deﬁnitely worth making a beeline for, although most people tend to head straight for the port of Milazzo – Sicily’s second-largest port – the main departure point for ferries and hydrofoils to the seven fascinating islands of the Aeolian archipelago.

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Despite being one of Sicily’s busiest international beach resorts, CEFALÙ has a parallel life as a small-scale ﬁshing port, tucked onto every available inch of a shelf of land beneath a fearsome crag, La Rocca. Roger II founded a mighty cathedral here in 1131 and his church dominates the skyline, the great twin towers of the facade rearing up above the ﬂat roofs of the medieval quarter. Naturally, the ﬁne curving sands are the major attraction but Cefalù is a pleasant town, and nothing like as developed as Sicily’s other package resort, Taormina.

The tourist office is at Corso Ruggero 77 (Mon–Sat 8am–8pm; summer probably also Sun 9am–1pm; T 0921.421.050, W www.cefalu-tour.pa.it; also check out W www .palermotourism.com for information on Cefalù), with free maps and accommodation lists. If you want to stay over, try the clean, basic and small Locanda Cangelosi, centrally placed at Via Umberto I 26 (T 0921.421.591, W www.locandacangelosi.it; no credit cards; 1); it also has a handful of two-, three- and four-bed apartments with kitchens to rent. Alternatively, the pleasant B&B delle Rose (T &F 0921.421.885; 2), at Via Gibilmanna, twenty minutes’ walk out of town along Umberto I, has rooms with private terraces. Otherwise, for a selection of B&B rooms and apartments right on the seafront, try Villa Cerniglia, Lungomare G. Giardina T 320.306.4275, W www .villacerniglia.com; 2–4). There are no outstanding restaurants, but you’ll eat adequately at Al Porticciolo, Via Carlo Ortolani Bordonaro 66 and 92 (T 091.921.981; closed Wed in winter), with a terrace built right onto the rocky shore. Whatever you do, don’t miss the Caffè di Noto, at Via Bagno Cicerone 3, right at the edge of the centro storico and the beginning of the Lungomare, where fabulous ice creams come in ﬂavours including mango, raspberry, prickly pear, and chocolate with chilli.

| Marinello and the Nebrodi mountains

Practicalities

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Halfway along Corso Ruggero, the main pedestrianized road through the old town, stands the Duomo (daily: summer 8am–7pm; winter 8am–5.30pm; free) built – partly at least – as Roger’s gratitude for fetching up at Cefalù’s safe beach in a violent storm. Inside, covering the apse and presbytery, are the earliest and best preserved of the church mosaics in Sicily, dating from 1148. Forty years earlier than those in the cathedral at Monreale, they are thoroughly Byzantine in concept. In high season, when Cefalù’s tangibly Arabic central grid of streets is crowded with tourists, you’d do best to visit the cathedral early in the morning, before succumbing to the lure of the long sandy beach beyond the harbour. There are a couple of other places also worth visiting: the Museo Mandralisca (daily 9am–1pm & 3–7pm, but may stay open over lunch in summer; €5), at Via Mandralisca 13 (across from Piazza Duomo), has a wry Portrait of an Unknown Man by Antonello da Messina, and a huge shell collection; and La Rocca (daily 8am–1 hour before sunset; free), which holds the megalithic Tempio di Diana, from where paths continue right around the crag, inside medieval walls, to the sketchy fortiﬁcations at the very top.

Marinello and the Nebrodi mountains If you fancy a break on your journey along the Tyrrhenian coast, head for the superb and unspoilt Riserva Naturale Laghetti di Marinello 10km east of Patti, where saltwater lagoons, sand dunes and dramatic rocky cliffs provide an important sanctuary for migratory birds. The cliffs above the reserve are dominated by the lavishly kitsch Santuario di Tindari (daily 6.45am–12.30pm & 2.30–7pm) built in the 1960s to celebrate numerous miracles attributed to a Byzantine icon of a Black Madonna. It’s a hugely popular pilgrimage spot (indeed Tindaro and Tindara are extremely common Christian names in these parts) so Sundays are best avoided. From the front of the sanctuary a path leads to what is left of ancient Tyndaris (daily 9am–1 hour before sunset; €2) including an overrestored Roman basilica and a well-preserved Roman house with mosaic ﬂoors. To really get off the beaten track, there are a number of routes into the Nebrodi mountains, taking you through isolated hill-towns and villages that have changed little in centuries. Autumn weekends are a great time to visit, as virtually every

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village holds some kind of sagra, a festival celebrating a single foodstuff, such as mushrooms, olive oil or bread: see W www.parcodeinebrodi.it for more information. If it’s spectacular scenery you are after, take the SS118 to Etna via the welcoming hill-town of NOVARA DI SICILIA, best known for maiorchino, a sheep cheese so strong you could swear the Novara ﬂocks are grazed on chilli. If you want to stay, Sganga Kondé King (T 0941.650.526; 1 ), on the main road through town, is a very pleasant B&B in a huge palazzo, run by ex-RAI journalist Minni Stancanelli; Mussolini spent a night here in 1927. For food, there are a couple of traditional trattorias, notably La Pineta, (T 941.650.522; closed Mon) where you can taste the local ricotta, deep-fried, crespelle (little pancakes) stuffed with wild vegetables, and home-made pasta with hearty mountain sauces featuring Nebrodi pork or, in season, wild mushrooms. Local sweets such as dito di apostolo (ricotta-stuffed pastries) can be sampled at the Bar Angelina, while cheese-lovers can buy the feisty local maiorchino from the Macelleria Antonella. All the above are along the main road through town.

| Milazzo

Milazzo At the foot of a hilly sickle-shaped castle-topped cape, and dominated by a giant oil reﬁnery, MILAZZO is the main port of departure for the Aeolian Islands (see box, p.894), which means, at best, a couple of hours in town waiting for a ferry or hydrofoil – at worst, a night in one of the hotels. If there’s time to kill, you might like to poke around the streets of the Borgo, the old town on the top of the hill, where the magniﬁcently preserved Spanish castle sits inside a much larger and older walled city, complete with its own cathedral. The castle is currently closed for restoration but should open daily 9.30am to 12.30pm and 3.30 to 6.30pm; call T 090.922.1291 to check. Built by Frederick II in the thirteenth century, over Arab foundations on the site of the ancient Greek acropolis, it’s one of Sicily’s best castles, with views stretching to the Aeolian Islands and beyond. Dotted around the Borgo are plenty of pubs – all good fun if you have time to kill – which open every evening in summer, at weekends in winter. The steps that run down the far side of the castle walls lead to the Spiaggia di Ponente, a long beach of grey gravel with crystal-clear waters.

Practicalities Buses (including the Giuntabus service from Messina, whose timings are pretty much organized to tie in with hydrofoil arrivals and departures) stop on the port-side car park (turn right as you disembark from the hydrofoil). The train station is 3km south of the centre, but local buses run into town every thirty

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The ticket ofﬁce at Milazzo station often closes without warning, especially at weekends, and the automatic machines are frequently out of action, so it can be impossible to buy a ticket. If you board the train without a ticket, some ticket collectors will hold the train at the next station, Barcellona, while you buy a ticket; others will impose a €6 ﬁne and bring the Carabinieri on board at Barcellona if you object. The best thing to do is to buy your ticket online in advance at Wwww.trenitalia.it, or at a travel agent: there are agents on the main streets of Lípari and Salina; in Milazzo, go to Catalano, Via L. Rizzo 17 (T090.928.4509; Mon–Sat 8.30am–1pm & 4–7.30pm) on the seafront heading towards the Municipio (turn right when you leave the hydrofoil dock).

minutes during the day, dropping you on the quayside or further up in Piazza della Repubblica. Milazzo’s helpful tourist office is at Piazza Duilio 20 (Mon– Sat 8.30am–1.30pm and possibly afternoons in summer; T 090.922.2865, W www.aastmilazzo.it), just back from the harbour, at the beginning of the main shopping zone. Accommodation

Food and drink

| The Aeolian Islands

room and bathroom. There is a kitchen for guest use. Signposted from the port. 2 Petit Hotel Via dei Mille 37 T 090.928.6784, W www.petithotel.it. Ground-breaking eco-hotel in a nineteenthcentury building on the seafront overlooking the hydrofoil dock. Staff go out of their way to be helpful, and breakfasts include local salamis and cheeses, organic yogurt, eggs and jams, and home-made cakes. 3 Solaris Via Colonello Berte 70 T333.605.0091, Wwww.bbsolaris.eu. Bright and welcoming B&B a block from the port, with ﬁve cheerfully decorated rooms with a/c and fridges. All the rooms have balconies and one has a small covered terrace. 2

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Cassisi Via Cassisi 5 T 090.922.9099, W www.cassisihotel.com. Elegant, minimalist, family-run hotel, with a deft touch of contemporary oriental style. The buffet breakfast is abundant, with local cheese and salamis, typical pastries and biscuits, and lots of fresh fruit. Five minutes’ walk from the port, and close to the main shopping area. 3 Orchidea sandwiched between Via XX Luglio and Via Nino Bixio T 090.928.8004, Wwww.bedand breakfastorchidea.com. Clean, functional B&B in a modern palazzo overlooking the port. The rooms won’t win any design awards, but they are clean, serviceable and four have sea views. There are also two family suites with a twin room, double

The classic café to hang out in while waiting for your ferry or hydrofoil is Albatros, Via dei Mille 38 (T 090.928.3666; closed Tues in winter) directly opposite the hydrofoil dock, which has a great range of pastries, good savouries, and good ice cream. For take-away fare, Il Spizzico, next to the Ustica Lines office, does the best arancini hereabouts, including a version ﬁlled with spinach and mozzarella. There are plenty of restaurants along the seafront, to the right as you leave the port, all of them pretty indifferent. You’re better off heading round the corner behind the Carige bank to Al Bagatto, Via M. Regis 11 (T 090.922.4212; closed Wed), a wine bar where you can sample local salami and cheeses, as well as more substantial dishes. The old town also has several resto-pubs around the Castello, though the views are better than the food. If it’s a drink you’re after, Tropical Bar, Via dei Mille 9–11 (T 090.928.6068), makes a great aperitivo with a substantial array of nibbles, and decent wine.

The Aeolian Islands Volcanic in origin, the Aeolian Islands are named after Aeolus, the Greek god who kept the winds he controlled shut tight in one of the islands’ many caves. According to Homer, Odysseus put into the Aeolians and was given a bag of wind to help him home, but his sailors opened it too soon and the ship was blown straight back to port. More veriﬁably, the islands were coveted for their mineral wealth, the mining of obsidian (hard, glass-like lava) providing the basis for early prosperity, because it was the sharpest material available until people learned the art of smelting metals. Later their strategic importance attracted the Greeks, who settled on Lípari in 580 BC, but they later became a haven for pirates and a place of exile, a state of affairs that continued right into the twentieth century with the Fascists exiling their political opponents to Lípari.

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Getting to the Aeolian Islands Sailings from Milazzo operate daily and are frequent enough to make it unnecessary to book ahead (for which there is a surcharge) except in the high season (unless you’re taking a car), although bear in mind that there is a severely reduced service between October and May – and that even moderately rough weather can disrupt the schedules. The shipping agencies are down by the harbour and open usual working hours in summer and open just before departures in the low season – Siremar (Via dei Mille 19 T090.928.3242, Wwww.siremar.it) for ferries and hydrofoils, Ústica Lines (Via dei Mille 32 T090.928.7821, Wwww.usticalines.it) for hydrofoils only, and NGI (Via dei Mille 26 T090.928.3415) for ferries only. Hydrofoils are more frequent and twice as quick, but almost twice the price of the ferries. The islands can also be reached from Palermo, Naples, Cefalù and Messina.

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| The Aeolian Islands

The twentieth century saw mass emigration, mostly to Australia, and even now islands such as Panarea and Alicudi have just a hundred or so year-round inhabitants. It’s only recently that the islanders stopped scratching a subsistence living and started welcoming tourists, and these days during the summer months the population of the islands can leap from 10,000 to 200,000. Every island is expensive, with prices in shops as well as restaurants reﬂecting the fact that most food is imported. But get out to the minor isles or come in blustery winter for a taste of what life was like on the islands twenty – or a hundred – years ago: unsophisticated, rough and beautiful. Getting around in summer is easy, as ferries (traghetti) and hydrofoils (aliscaﬁ) link all the islands. In winter, services are reduced and in rough weather cancelled altogether, particularly on the routes out to Strómboli, Alicudi and Filicudi. A car might be worth taking to Lípari and Salina, or you can rent bikes and scooters when you get there: the islands are very popular with cyclists, though you need to enjoy hills. In high season (Easter & July–Aug), accommodation is scarce, many places insist on half-board, so you’d be wise to book in advance. From October to March prices can drop by up to 50 percent. There are campsites on Vulcano, Salina and Lípari – but camping rough is illegal. There are ATMs on all the islands except Alicudi. Power cuts are commonplace, caused by storms in winter, and in August by over-demand, so a torch is a good idea, especially in winter. Don’t be surprised if hotels ask you to be sparing with the water as it is imported by tanker.

Vulcano

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Closest to the Sicilian mainland, VULCANO is the ﬁrst port of call for ferries and hydrofoils – 45 minutes by hydrofoil, around an hour and a half by ferry – and you know when you are approaching it from the rotten-egg reek of sulphur. The novelty value of its smouldering volcano, and the chance to wallow in warm mud baths and swim above bubbling mid-sea fumeroles, make it a popular day-trip and holiday destination. Consequently Vulcano has been carelessly developed, its little town ugly, and the promontory of Vulcanello studded with bland mass-market hotels. Just ﬁfteen minutes’ walk from the port, across the neck of land separating it from Porto di Ponente, there’s an excellent black-sand beach. The path up to the crater begins about a kilometre out of town on the road to Gelso, marked by a sign warning of the dangers of inhaling volcanic gases. The ascent (access €3 in summer) should take less than an hour. Wear hiking boots, as the ashy track is slithery, and follow the crater in an anticlockwise direction, so you

LÍPARI is the biggest and most heavily populated of the islands. Development has not been carefully controlled, and although parts of the island are beautiful and unspoilt, getting there inevitably means passing through villages cluttered with brassy holiday houses. The main port and capital, Lípari Town is a busy little place bunched between two harbours. Arrival, information and accommodation

Hydrofoils and ferries dock at the deep Marina Lunga, which curves around to the north, while the smaller Marina Corta, formed by a church-topped mole and dwarfed by the castle that crowns the hill above, is used by excursion boats. The tourist office at Corso Vittorio Emanuele 202 (Mon–Fri 8.30am–1.30pm & 4–7.30pm; July & Aug also Sat 8.30am–1.30pm; T 090.988.0095, W www .aasteolie.191.it) has a list of hotels and information for all the Aeolian Islands. In July and August it’s a good idea to listen to the offers of rooms as you step off the boat. Expect to pay around €25–40 per person in August, €20 at other times of the year, for something with a shower, kitchen, and balcony or terrace. There are also two pleasant rooms to rent from Christine Berart, the islands’ vet, at Vico Montebello 19 (T 090.9880.783 or 338.886.1297, E [email protected]; 2 ). The nearest campsite is Baia Unci Campsite (T 090.981.1909, W www.camping baiaunci.it; mid-March to mid-Oct), 3km away from the port at the busy resort of Canneto; the bus from Lípari stops outside. Carasco Porto delle Genti T 090.981.1605, W www.carasco.it. Best choice in town if you have children, as this big 1960s hotel, fused to a cliff on the edge of town, has a vast pool. All the rooms have terraces, and virtually all have sea views. Facilities include a decent restaurant and a poolside bar. 4 Diana Brown Vico Himera 3 T 090.981.2584, W www.dianabrown.it. Spotless place on a quiet alley off the main Corso, run by a charming South African lady who has lived on the island for thirty years, and so can give good advice on anything you need to know. Rooms come with fridges and kettles; breakfast is served on a sunny roof garden; and there is a wonderfully well stocked book-exchange. 2

Enza Marturano Via Maurolico 35 T 368.322.4997, W www.enzamarturano.it. Four air-conditioned rooms, with fridges, kitchens and private terraces close to the Marina Corta; breakfast included. It is worth checking the website for special off-season deals. No credit cards. 2 Hotel Tritone Via Mendolita T090.981.1595, Wwww.bernardigroup.it. Comfortable hotel in a quiet part of town, but just a 5min walk from the centre, built around a swimming pool with thermally-heated spring water. There is also a well-equipped spa centre, with a wide range of massage therapies and beauty treatments. It is owned by the same people as the excellent Filippino restaurant (see below). 6

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are going downhill rather than up through the clouds of sulphurous emissions on the northern rim. Alternatively, there is an easier hike to Vulcanello, the volcanic pimple just to the north of the port, spewed out of the sea in 183 BC: start at the port and head past the Fanghi de Vulcano. If you are feeling lazy, the Fanghi di Vulcano, or mud baths, and offshore fumeroles are a couple of minutes’ walk from the port. In season there’s a small entrance fee. Don’t wear contact lenses, and be prepared to stink of sulphur for a couple of days. Alternatively, there is a rather nouveau-riche spa, the Oasi della Salute, at Via Lentia 1, with three thermal hydromassage pools and a beauty centre (May–Sept; T 090.985.2093). High prices and mass tourism make Vulcano best seen on a day-trip. The cost of food on the island is exorbitant, and you have to choose carefully from the battery of unexceptional restaurants (most of which close between Nov and Easter) along the road that bends around from the port: you’re better off bringing a picnic with you.

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Villa Meligunis Via Marte 7 T 090.981.2426, W www.villameligunis.it. If you fancy staying in the lap of luxury, push the boat out at this gorgeous converted palazzo with excellent views

of the citadel and sea from its rooftop restaurant, and a pool alongside; it offers great discounts off-season. 5

Island transport

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From Lípari Town, the rest of the island is easy to reach on a network of buses, which leave regularly from a stop by Marina Lunga, opposite the Esso service station. Buses run in two directions around the island, clockwise to Quattropani, and anticlockwise to Canneto, Porticello and Acquacalda. There are enough departures (up to ten daily in summer) to be able to get around the whole island easily in a day, although if you’re really pushed for time the bus company operates a ninety-minute tour of the island (giro dell’isola), usually twice a day ( July–Sept; €5) – though they need a minimum of twelve passengers to run. Alternatively, you could drive or scooter around Lípari’s winding roads in a couple of hours, stopping at places like Monte Guardia, Quattrocchi, Quattropani and Monterosa for some amazing views out across the archipelago. Rental agencies such as the friendly and reliable Da Marcello (T 090.981.1234) line the dockside at Marina Lunga (the ferry and hydrofoil port); you’ll have to leave your passport, credit card or a hefty deposit as security. Bikes cost from €10/day, scooters from €20, small cars from €30 for most of the year, up to €60 in August. Lípari Town

The upper town within the fortress walls, the Castello, has been continuously occupied since Neolithic times. Alongside the well-marked excavations, there’s a tangle of churches ﬂanking the main cobbled street, and several buildings that make up the separate arms of the Museo Eoliano (daily 9am–1.30pm & 3.30–7pm; €6) – a lavish collection of Neolithic pottery, late Bronze Age artefacts, and decorated Greek and Roman vases and statues. Highlights are the towering pyramids of amphorae rescued from ancient shipwrecks, a stunning array of miniature Greek theatrical masks found in tombs, and unique polychrome painted pottery ascribed to an artist known as the Lípari Painter. The town’s numerous restaurants and pizzerias have (often poor, and inevitably overpriced) tourist menus at around €15–20, and even the cheaper places impose hefty 15 or 20 percent service charges. Two great places are the expensive Filippino on Piazza Municipio (T 090.9811.002) where the food is creative and delicious, and

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Tour operators all over town offer year-round boat trips, both around Lípari and to all the other islands. The boats mostly run from Marina Corta, but agencies are prominent at the main port too. Universally recommended is Da Massimo, Via Maurolico 2 (T 090.981.3086, W www.damassimo.it), with clean, well-maintained boats with freshwater showers and sun shades; English is spoken. They also offer a boat trip to Strómboli with the excellent Magmatrek (see p.900), including a night ascent of the volcano (from €70). Prices for boat trips are roughly the same everywhere, from €15 for a Lípari and Vulcano tour, Lípari and Salina €25, and from €30 to Panarea and Strómboli. If you want to hire a gommone (rubber boat) and putter around yourself, expect to pay around €100 per day for a 50-metre boat with shower and canopy and space for six people. Most operators also run beach shuttles in summer to good beaches on Lípari that are otherwise tricky to reach, like Praia Vinci.

Kasbah (T 090.9811.075), off the Corso on Via Maurolico, a relaxed and elegant place, serving wonderful, reasonably priced Mediterranean food and superb pizzas in a garden planted with citrus trees. Bars along the corso ﬁll up from early evening onwards: the classy enoteca Di Vino in Vino at no.102, is a cut above the rest, with a well-researched range of wines, along with Nebrodi-mountain hams and cheeses, tasters of which you’ll be given with your glass of wine at aperitif hour. They also have a wide range of salads, bruschette and toasted sandwiches. For great ice creams and pastries, the place to go is Subba, Corso Vittorio Emanuele 92, which has been in the same family since the 1930s. There’s a SISA supermarket and various alimentari and bakeries on the main Corso – if you’re self-catering, head for the deli counter and fruit and veg section at the SISA, and buy your bread from the bakery opposite.

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Canneto, a shabby resort with a long pebble beach on the east of the island, is a good place to take the kids, though unless you are at the campsite it’s unlikely you’ll want to stay. Beyond here, the island’s east coast has been marred by extensive pumice mining: Porticello, with a pumice beach below abandoned mine-buildings has a certain industrial allure and good snorkelling, with turquoise waters over the pumice seabed. If you are after beaches and a walk, take the bus west out of Lípari Town (direction Pianoconte) and ask to get down at Localitá Monte, from where it’s a thirty-minute walk to the pebbly beach at Valle Muria (if you don’t want to walk you can get there and back by boat from Marina Corta in summer: look out for Barney in the green and yellow boat; €5 each way). Continuing beyond Localitá Monte, the road climbs up to Quattrocchi (“Four Eyes”), with much-photographed views over spiky faraglioni rocks to Vulcano. Just after the village of Pianoconte, a side road slinks off down to the ancient thermal baths at San Calogero hidden behind a long-disused spa hotel: there’s usually an unofficial guide to show you around and allow you a dip if you dare in the scummy 57°C Roman pool. For a great coastal hike, stay on the bus from Lípari asking the driver to drop you at the Cave Caolina, a quarry of multicoloured clays used as pigments by the Lípari Painter (whose work can be seen in the Museo Archeologico) from where an easy-to-follow path leads down through the quarry, and back to San Calogero, passing sulphurous fumaroles, a hot spring, and a couple of places where you can scramble down the cliffs for a swim. If you feel happier with a map, there are large-scale Isole Eolie maps on sale in many shops along the main corso.

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Around the island

Salina North of Lípari, SALINA’s two extinct volcanic cones rise out of a fertile land that produces capers and white Malvasia. It’s excellent walking country with marvellous vantage points over the other islands. Tourism came to Salina far later than Lípari and Vulcano, with the happy result that development and building have always been strictly controlled. Although you could bring a car, there is really little need as there are bus services between all the main villages. Walking trails cut right across Salina, in particular linking the main port, Santa Marina and the nearby hamlet of Lingua with the peak of Monte Fossa delle Felci (962m). There are trail heads signed from the road between Santa Marina and Lingua, and also from the Circonvalazione that cuts behind Santa Marina. If you want an easier time of it, take a bus to the sanctuary of Madonna del Terzito at Valdichiesa – in the saddle between the two mountains – from where there’s a broad easy-to-follow jeep track; this is about 10km to the top, and should take a couple of hours.

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Santa Marina di Salina

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The principal island port is SANTA MARINA DI SALINA on the east coast – a relaxed village ranged along a single, pedestrianized main street, with good swimming from a beach of large stones. You may be able to ﬁnd private rooms here, or try the B&B Da Sabina, at the far end of the village from the port at Via Risorgimento 5/C (T 090.984.3134 or 333.272.6025, W www.bbsalina.it; 2 , rising to 4 in Aug). Mamma Santina, Via Sanità 40 (T 090.984.3054, W www .mammasantina.it; 5 ; end March to Nov), signposted to the left up the hill off the main street of Via Risorgimento, is a stylish place with a great pool, though service is not always up to scratch. Down on the seafront, the Mercanti di Mare (T 090.9843.536, W www.hotelmercantidimare.it; 4 ) has nine white, airy rooms and a terrace with views over the sea to Strómboli, Panarea and Lípari: its owner, Alberto, is author of a book of the same name, about the seafaring history of the islands. Nni Lausta (T 090.9843.486; May–Oct) on Via Risorgimento, is a cool wine bar and restaurant whose New York-trained owner-chef brings an adventurous new twist to local dishes. Try the tartare di tonno, raw tuna dressed with wild fennel and capers, or spaghetti with raw sea urchin. The Porto Bello restaurant above the port (closed Wed in winter & all Nov) serves excellent local antipasti, and beautifully prepared pasta and ﬁsh dishes. Lingua

LINGUA, sitting by a pretty lagoon 3km south, makes a pleasant alternative base to Santa Marina. It has two small museums in exquisitely restored Aeolian houses overlooking the lagoon with its skew-whiff lighthouse: a small ethnographic museum (May–Oct Tues–Sun 9am–1pm & 3–6pm; free) displays examples of rustic art and island culture – mainly kitchen utensils and mill equipment, much of it fashioned from lavic rock, while the archeological museum (May–Oct Tues– Sun 9am–6pm; free) has ﬁnds from Bronze Age and Roman Salina. If you’re on a tight budget, best value on the island is the funky apartments, with lovely owners, known as the Villagio (T 335.666.0777 or 329.796.6120; 1 –2 ) on the main road through the village, overlooking the lagoon. Alternatively, the smart La Salina Borgo di Mare has lovely rooms, many with private terraces, set in the buildings of the former salt works by the lagoon (T 090.9843.441, W www.lasalinahotel.com; 5 ). You’ll also ﬁnd rooms at the restaurants ’A Cannata, just above the seafront (T 090.984.3161, W www .acannata.it; 2 –3 ), Il Delﬁno, right on the seafront at Via Garibaldi 19 (T 090.984.3024, W www.ildelﬁnosalina.com; 2 –3 ), and Gambero, also on the seafront (T 090.9843.049, W www.ilgamberosalina.it; 1 –2 ), whose rooms open onto a terrace with great views of Lípari. Half-board is compulsory in all three in August (a hefty €120 or so per person) and all have minibuses to ferry guests between the port and Lingua. The town’s main draw is its seafront piazza, hub of Salina summer-life, where the tiny bar A Da Alfredo is famous throughout Italy for its fresh fruit and nut granitas. They also do pane cunzato, a huge round of grilled bread piled with various combinations of home-cured tuna, capers, tomatoes, baked ricotta and local olives. For more formal creative meals, and good pizza, the restaurant behind, Alfredo in Cucina, has a terrace overlooking the lake. Malfa and Pollara

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Salina’s only road climbs from the harbour at Santa Marina and traces the coast north, turning west at Capo Faro, with its vineyards and a lighthouse. It’s also home to a hip hotel, Capo Faro (T 090.984.4330, W www.capofaro.it; 6–7), owned

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by the Tasca d’Almerita wine people, with twenty stunning, contemporary rooms occupying seven Aeolian-style houses that look down across the vineyards. The pool is marvellous, the restaurant less so, and children under 12 are not accepted. A couple of kilometres beyond here, the road winds in to MALFA, Salina’s largest village, set back from the sea, and home to the island’s most charismatic hotel, the family-run Signum (T 090.984.4222, W www.hotelsignum.it; 4 –5 ), which has elegant rooms set around an inﬁnity pool, and an excellent restaurant. Malfa, itself, though quite busy with traffic in the centre, has an appealing little ﬁshing port tucked away at the foot of cliffs, reached by either road or paved stepped footpaths. Its stony beach, backed by dramatic cliffs, was closed in summer 2010 because of falling rocks. If this is still the case, do as the locals do and swim instead from the harbour.If you are around in late afternoon, don’t miss watching the sunset from the chic cliff-top bar of the Santa Isabel hotel (open Easter to Oct). Just out of Malfa, a minor road (served by several buses a day) snakes off west to secluded POLLARA, raised on a cliff above the sea and occupying a crescent-shaped crater from which Salina’s last eruption took place some 13,000 years ago. Scenes from the 1994 ﬁlm Il Postino were shot in a house here which you can rent, though it is pretty basic and quite expensive: call Pippo Cafarella (T 339.425.3684). Pollara’s beach, which also featured in Il Postino, diminishes every year, and in 2010 falling rocks led to its closure. Swim instead from the ancient ﬁshing-boat ramps reached by a cobbled footpath from below the Postino house. If you want to stay, the Locanda del Postino (T 090.984.3958, W www .lalocandadelpostino.it; 3 –4 ), has ten rooms with terraces occupying the former priest’s house, and a restaurant known for its ﬁsh. The other place to eat in Pollara is Il Cappero (T 090.9843.968), an agriturismo serving pasta dressed with a pesto made of local capers and rabbit in agrodolce. Leni and Rinella

Most ferries and hydrofoils also call at the little port of RINELLA, on the island’s south coast, with a black-sand beach; buses meet most boat arrivals on the quayside (and call here several times a day). There’s a little hotel, L’Ariana (T 090.980.9075, W www.hotelariana.it; half-board in Aug €210 per person; closed mid-Nov & Dec), occupying a nineteenth-century villa with a frill of terracotta busts around its roof, just above the port. In summer its terrace is a marvellous place for a sunset aperitivo, accompanied by superior nibbles including smoked swordﬁsh, and crostini with a delectable artichoke dip. The same family produce great home-cooked food at the amiable Bar Papero (open all year) tucked behind the main road on Piazzetta Anna Magnani, which is a great place for lunch. In addition there are two excellent pizzerias, Da Marco above the port, and Le Tre Pietre, on the main road out of the village. The village is also the site of the Aeolians’ most beautifully located campsite, Campeggio Eolie, 200m up the road from the port (T 090.980.9052, W www.camp eggioeolie.it; closed Oct–April; bungalows 4), with tent pitches, spaces for caravans, a bar-restaurant, small shop and seven tiny bungalows ranged across pine-shaded terraces right on the shore. It also has internet access, and can arrange boat trips.

Panarea Only 3km by 1.5km, PANAREA is the smallest, loveliest, most painfully stylish and ridiculously expensive of the Aeolians, and in summer its harbours, hotels and villas overﬂow with an international crowd of designers, models, pop stars, ﬁlm stars, royalty and their lackeys. In low season, however, the island is an utter delight, accommodation prices relatively sane, and the three-hour walk, up the peak of Pizzo Corvo, and hugging the fractured coastline, one of the most stunning anywhere in Italy.

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Cars are banned, and the only transport is by Vespa or electric golf car. Panarea’s couple of hundred year-round inhabitants live in three linked hamlets on the eastern side of the island, Ditella, San Pietro and Drauto, with the boats docking at San Pietro. One of the least expensive places to stay is the rooms owned by Pippo and Maria Soldino in Iditella beyond the Carabinieri barracks. They are spotlessly clean, have their own terraces, are set in a garden, and out of season Pippo and Maria will cook for you (T 090.983.061 or 334.703.5010; 3 ). Good value, in low and mid-season at least, is the Albergo Girasole (T 090.98.3018 or 328.861.8595, W www.hotelgirasole-panarea.it; 4 ), also family-run, at Drauto, out on the way to the sandy beach at Zimmari. Or you could try the gorgeous A Quartara, Via S. Pietro 15 (T 090.983.027, W www.quartarahotel.com; closed Nov–March; 7 ), an intimate boutique hotel where the staff make everyone feel special. The Raya on Via S. Pietro is the hotel that put Panarea on the party map, but unless you’re a member of the in-crowd, it’s really not worth considering, as how you are treated depends very much on who you are. However, if it happens not to be a guest-listonly night, you could go for an aperitif or after-dinner drink on the ﬁne terrace of the lovely bar. The food is usually good at the Trattoria da Francesco, just above the port, and at the charming, harbourside Trattoria da Adelina, Via Comunale del Porto 28 (T 090.983.246). Thirty minutes’ walk south of San Pietro, clearly signposted, Zimmari is the island’s one sandy beach. From here, a steep path leads up to Punta Milazzese, where you can see the foundations of 23 Bronze Age huts, with the glorious cove of Cala Junco below. Just before you reach the Bronze Age village is the beginning of the well-marked track up Pizzo Corvo, circling the entire island and ending up at Calcara to the north of town, where there are steaming fumaroles on the beach.

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Despite the regularity of the volcanic explosions, people have always lived on STRÓMBOLI. It is in a constant state of activity, throwing up fountains of ﬁre and glowing rock every twenty minutes or so. A full eruption happens on average every 10 years. A ﬂow of lava is often visible from afar, slowly sliding down the northwest side of the volcano into the sea. In January 2003 there was a colossal landslide, triggering a ten-metre-high tsunami that inundated the coasts of Sicily and Calabria. Most of the many hotels and rooms to let on the island are on the eastern side, in the adjacent parishes of San Vincenzo, San Bartolo and Piscità, often grouped together as Strómboli Town and something of a chic resort since Rossellini and Ingrid Bergman immortalized the place in the 1949 ﬁlm Strómboli. From the quayside, the lower coastal road runs around to the beach of Ficogrande and, further on, Piscità, where there’s a series of tiny lava coves with ashy sand. It’s around 25 minutes on foot from the port to here. The other road from the dock cuts up to the Piazza di San Vincenzo, which offers glorious views of the offshore islet of Strombolicchio. On the other side of the island, accessible by hydrofoil, the hamlet of Ginostra is a laidback place of steeply terraced white Aeolian houses, where the only way of getting about is on foot or donkey. Hydrofoils run back to Strómboli Town twice a day in summer (once daily in winter), but these are susceptible to cancellation because of rough waters. Guides for the ascent of the volcano cost around €28 per person, though if eruptions are thought to be dangerous, the mountain is closed; try Magmatrek on Via Vittorio Emanuele (T 090.986.5768 or 333.906.6053, W www.magmatrek.it), where the staff are well informed and in constant radio contact with the volcanologists at the control centre. The climb up takes three hours, and you are expected

to go at a fair whack; at ﬁrst, it is no different from climbing any mountain, then suddenly all vegetation stops, giving way to black ash strewn with small jagged boulders spewed out by the volcano. Once on the top, all you can see at ﬁrst are clouds of white steam – then suddenly there will be a resounding clash, the clouds glow red, and spouts of ﬁre shoot up into the air, the glowing boulders drawing tracks of red light across the night sky. You should not attempt the climb alone. Be equipped for a tough-ish hike, and for a night climb bring warm clothes and a torch. The best boat trips are the tours around the island, calling at Ginostra and Strombolicchio (2hr 30min; €20), and trips out at night to see the Sciara del Fuoco (1hr 20min; €15). Try Pippo (T 090.986.135 or 338.985.7883) – who has a stand in front of the Beach Bar, or Paola and Giovanni (T 338.431.2803) who work from opposite the Sirenetta hotel in Ficogrande.

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In summer, the quayside is thick with three-wheelers and touts offering rooms; prices start at around €25 per person. First budget choice is the lovely Casa del Mulino (T 090.986.701 or 338.540.8931, E [email protected]; 2 ) in Piscità with four simple rooms in an old windmill perched right on the lava-cliff edge above a cove. For more luxury, the place to go is the Sirenetta Park Hotel, Via Marina 33 (T 090.986.025, W www.lasirenetta.it; 5 ). Founded in 1952, the Sirenetta is outside town on the long black-sand beach of Ficogrande: its rooms are in Aeolian style, whitewashed with ﬂat roofs and terraces, in spacious, well-tended gardens with a saltwater pool, and most have beautiful views over to the rocky islet of Strombolicchio. There are also yoga courses, massages, thalassotherapy and ayurvedic treatments, a diving centre, a tennis court and an amphitheatre where concerts, plays, ﬁlms and weddings are staged. On the beach across the road is the very chic La Tartana Club, where in summer the fashionable set gathers for beach cocktails, live music and dinner. If you want to stay in Ginostra, try one of the rooms at the B&B Luna Rosa (T 090.981.2305; 1 –3 ) or contact Magmatrek guide Mario Priuti about houses to rent (T 339.787.8465). The most convivial restaurant in Strómboli Town is Zurro, down by the port at Via Marina (T 090.986.283), named for its piratical-looking owner-chef, an ex-ﬁsherman whose food is both ﬂamboyant and delicious. Summer nights often see impromptu parties on the beach at Petrazze, to the south of the port, while the best spot to hang out in town is Bar Ingrid, in the square by San Vincenzo church.

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Practicalities

Filicudi FILICUDI, the larger of the two most westerly islands, is a fascinating place, the contours of its sheer slopes traced with steep stone terraces and crisscrossed by stone mule tracks. It is an island best explored by foot, which is just as well, as there is no public transport. The tarmac road that connects the several small settlements gives a false impression of the island, making villages seem far apart that are, in fact, just a few minutes’ walk away, at least if you are ﬁt: most of the tracks are pretty steep, occasionally following, but mostly cutting between, the ancient terraces carved into the slopes of maquis and prickly pear. The main settlement is Filicudi Porto, which has a couple of shops, bars, hotels and a pharmacy. Inland, accessible by road or mule track, are three whitewashed villages, Valdichiesa, Rocche Ciauli and Pecorini. And down on the west coast, about 3km by road from the port, is the lovely little seaside village of Pecorini Mare. If you are not up to walking, a red minivan-taxi meets most boat arrivals (€12 per person to Pecorini Mare). If it’s not there call D&G Servizio Navetta (T 347.757.5916).

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There are plenty of good walks along the ancient mule tracks of Filicudi: one of the nicest is out to the abandoned village of Zucco Grande. Walk up to La Canna hotel (see below) from the port – follow the well-kept stone mule track that begins from a point almost opposite the hydrofoil and ferry dock – then continue until you meet the tarmacked road. The path continues on the other side of the road, heading towards the settlement of Valdichiesa. After about twenty minutes, the path forks, and you’ll see the ﬁrst of several signs to Zucco Grande. The path is well-marked, following the contours through a prickly terrain of gorse, lentisk, prickly pear and euphorbia. Another twenty minutes brings you to the village, abandoned forty years ago when its last inhabitants left for Australia. A couple of pioneering souls have bought ruins here, which are being renovated, but at the moment there is just one inhabitant, Giovanni, who has a couple of rooms and can provide a basic dinner (T 347.813.2579 or 368.407.544). Practicalities

| The Aeolian Islands

As long as you don’t mind a steep ten-minute haul up a stone-stepped alley, you could do no better than La Canna (T 090.988.9956, W www.lacannahotel.it; 4 ), a family-run hotel in the hilltop village of Rocche Ciauli, above the port. Fourteen pleasant rooms open onto a huge whitewashed terrace with views of ﬁve other islands. There is a decent-sized swimming pool, and the restaurant serves typical Aeolian food often with ﬁsh caught by the owner. They also have several houses to rent around the island. If you want a beachside base, head for Pecorini a Mare, where there is little to do except eat good food, hunt for seashells (Filicudi has some of the best shells in the archipelago) and walk slowly up the hill out to the clifftop viewpoint above at Punta Stimpagnato (allow about 30min) to watch the sun set over the mid-sea rock known as La Canna. The nicest place to stay here is La Sirena (T 090.988.9997 or 349.869.3320, W www.pensionelasirena.it; 3 ) run by an Englishwoman and her Sicilian husband (who is also a great cook). They have several rooms (most with cooking facilities) and houses around the traffic-free village. The food is among the best you’ll ﬁnd anywhere on the islands.

Alicudi

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End-of-the-line Europe doesn’t come much more remote than Alicudi, a stark cone rising from the sea two and a half hours from Milazzo by hydrofoil. Electricity arrived only in the 1990s, and the sole way of getting about is on foot, though the six donkeys are used to carry heavy loads. There are just eighty yearround inhabitants, while superstitions and sightings of ghosts abound – as does the conviction that some Alicudari are blessed with the power to control the weather and divert cyclones. Up the sheer slope behind the tiny port, terraced smallholdings and whitewashed ﬂat-roofed houses linked by lava-paved paths cling on for dear life, among bursts of bougainvillea. Most of the hiking here is up stepped tracks that seem to have been designed with giants in mind, so be prepared for a good deal of calf-work. If you don’t fancy hauling yourself to the top (675m; 2hr), you’ll still get plenty of exercise climbing up to the church of San Bartolomeo, where controversy rages over the removal of the statue of the saint to a more easily accessible church lower down the hill (it is said that since the statue was moved, the island has had bad luck). Otherwise, follow the path north out of the port behind the church of the Carmine from where it’s an easy walk to the narrow stony beach of Bazzina, with a couple of smallholdings behind it.

Practicalities

Sicily’s eastern Ionian coast draws the largest number of visitors, attracted by Taormina, most chic of the island’s resorts and famed for its remarkable GrecoRoman theatre, and Mount Etna, Europe’s highest volcano. Further south, out of the lee of Etna, Siracusa was formerly the most important and beautiful city in the Hellenistic world, its enchanting centro storico surrounded by water.

Messina and south MESSINA may well be your ﬁrst sight of Sicily, and – from the ferry – it’s a ﬁne one, the glittering town spread up the hillside beyond the sickle-shaped harbour. Sadly, the image is shattered almost as soon as you step into the city, bombed and shaken to a shadow of its former self by plague, cholera and earthquakes. The great earthquake of 1908 killed 84,000 people, levelled the city and made the shore sink by half a metre overnight. Allied bombing raids in 1943 didn’t help, undoing much of the post-earthquake restoration. Today, the remodelled city guards against future natural disasters, with wide streets and low, reinforced concrete buildings marching off in all directions. Not surprisingly, it’s a pretty dull spectacle, and there’s little point in hanging around for longer than you need to. If you’ve time on your hands, wander up to Via XX Settembre from the port to the Duomo (Mon–Fri 9.30am–12.30pm, Sat 9.30am–12.30pm & 4.15–5pm, Sun 8am–noon & 4–7pm; free), a faithful reconstruction of the medieval cathedral built by Roger II. The facade retains its grand doorways and some original sculpture, and the detached campanile reputedly contains the largest astronomical clock in the world, a panoply of moving gilt ﬁgures including a crowing cock, roaring lion and a succession of doves and angels accompanying the Madonna. You can climb the campanile for a closer look (daily 9.30am–1pm, except in bad weather; T 090.675.175).

| The Ionian coast • Messina and south

The Ionian coast

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There is one hotel in the port, the modern twelve-room Ericusa (T 090.988.9902, W www.alicudihotel.it; 5 ) with sea views and a restaurant. Otherwise contact Silvio Taranto, Via Regina Elena, 98050 Alicudi (T 090.988.9922), who can put you in touch with people who have rooms to rent. For twenty years Silvio and his wife have been cooking dinner at their house above the port for whoever needs a place to eat. There’s no menu and no choice, and everyone eats the same, sitting at long tables on the family’s terrace, drinking locally produced red wine. Another good place to eat is Da Rosina Alla Mimosa higher up in the village (T 090.988.9937 or 368.361.6511, W www.rosina-barbuto.it; 1 ), named after a huge mimosa tree that was uprooted by a tornado. Virtually everything is produced or (in the case of rabbit, goat and ﬁsh) caught by the family. In autumn, the menu includes wild mushrooms and from autumn to spring wild greens such as fennel and borage. There are also a handful of simple rooms to rent.

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Much of what was salvaged from the city’s various disasters resides in the Museo Regionale (summer Mon & Fri 9am–1.30pm, Tues, Thurs & Sat 9am–1.30pm & 4–6.30pm, Sun 9am–12.30pm; winter Mon & Fri 9am–12.30pm, Tues, Thurs, Sat 9am–1.30pm & 3–5.30pm, Sun 9am–12.30pm, closed Wed; €4.50), 3km north of the centre – a 45-minute walk along Via della Libertà, or tram #28 to the terminus, Annunziata. This beautifully laid out museum includes a couple of Caravaggios, commissioned by the city in 1604, damaged works by Antonello da Messina, and the city’s rescued archeological remains. Messina is the place to be only on the feast of the Assumption, or ferragosto (Aug 15), when a towering carriage, the Vara – an elaborate column supporting dozens of papier-mâché putti and angels, topped by the ﬁgure of Christ – is hauled through the city centre, followed by a ﬁrework display on the seafront. S I C I LY

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Practicalities Trains use the Stazione Centrale by the harbour, adjacent to the Stazione Maríttima, where train-ferries from Calabria dock. Hydrofoils to the Aeolian Islands and Reggio di Calabria leave ﬁve-minutes’ walk away at the end of Viale San Martino. Other ferries (to and from Villa San Giovanni and Reggio di Calabria) dock at quays further to the north, on Via della Libertà. Interbus and SAIS buses for Palermo, Rome and Catania leave from Piazza della Repubblica by the train station, as does Giuntabus’s fast service (via the motorway) to the port at Milazzo; slower buses to Milazzo, via the coastal SS13, depart from the Giuntabus office at Via Terranova 8 (at the corner of Viale San Martino), a ﬁve-minute walk away from the station, a couple of minutes’ walk from the hydrofoil dock. There are two tourist offices just outside the train station: one on Piazza della Repubblica (Mon–Thurs 9am–1.30pm & 3–5pm, Fri 9am–1.30pm; sometimes also open Sat mornings; T 090.672.944), where good English is spoken, the other just beyond on Via Calabria (Mon–Sat 8am–6.30pm; T 090.674.236, W www.azienda turismomessina.it); both can supply you with Aeolian Islands ferry timetables and accommodation lists. Unless you arrive late in the day, it’s unnecessary to stay in Messina. If you need to, the modern Excelsior (T 090.293.1431; 2 ), near Piazza Cairoli at Via Maddalena 32, is a reasonable option, while if you want international-style comfort the Grand Hotel Liberty, Via 1 Settembre 15 (T 090.640.9436, W www.nh-hotels.it; 3 ), is kitted out in vague Liberty style (Art Nouveau motifs on doors, bedheads, wallpaper), and has a roof-top terrace for breakfast, and an internet point. Messina has some good restaurants, many serving freshly caught swordﬁsh from the straits – particularly in May and June, at the height of the swordﬁsh season. Close to the new hydrofoil dock at the foot of Corso Vittorio Emanuele, Fratelli La Bufala (T 090.943.1460) is a branch of the Neapolitan pizza chain committed to using no hydrogenated fats, glutamates or genetically modiﬁed ingredients: it serves up great pizza (with buffalo mozzarella, of course) along with buffalo-meat secondi and Campanian wines. For posher fare, the intimate Le Due Sorelle, Piazza Municipio 4 (T 090.44.720), specializes in innovative and memorable cooking. For a picnic lunch, tasty panini and other cold snacks are on offer at Salumeria Nucita, an alimentari at Via Garibaldi 125 (closed Wed eve & Sun). If it’s breakfast you’re after, head to Piazza Cairoli, where there are two good long-established café-pasticcerie: Billé at no. 7 (closed Tues) and Irrera at no. 12.

The coastal route south South of Messina, the coast is not particularly attractive, the long grey gritty sands backed with a raggle-taggle of holiday houses. The undistinguished ribbon resort

of Santa Teresa di Riva is the jumping-off point for the foothills of the Monti Peloritani, the long mountain range that cuts south from Messina. Buses from Santa Teresa twist the 4km up to SAVOCA, a peaceful hill-village, where houses and churches perch precariously on the cliffsides in clumps, topped by a tattered castle. Signs point you to the Cappuccini monastery whose catacombs (summer daily 9.30am–12.30pm, winter daily 10am–1pm & 4–7pm; donation requested) maintain a selection of mummiﬁed bodies, two to three hundred years old, dressed in their eighteenth-century ﬁnery. Have a drink afterwards at the Bar Vitelli, used as the scene of Michael Corleone’s betrothal in Coppola’s ﬁlm The Godfather.

| Taormina

TAORMINA, perched high on Monte Tauro, with Mount Etna as backdrop, looks down on two grand sweeping bays and is Sicily’s best-known resort. D.H. Lawrence was so enraptured that he lived here from 1920–23, in a house at the top of the valley cleft, behind the remains of the Greek theatre. Although international tourism has taken its toll, Taormina is still a very charming town, peppered with small, intimate piazzas. The single traffic-free main street is an unbroken line of ﬁfteenth- to nineteenth-century palazzi decked out with ﬂower-ﬁlled balconies, and there is an agreeably crumbly castle. The downside is that between June and August it’s virtually impossible to ﬁnd anywhere to stay, and the narrow alleys are shoulder-to-shoulder with tourists. April, May or September are slightly better, but to avoid the crowds completely come between October and March, when it’s often still warm enough to swim in the sea.

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Taormina

Arrival and information Trains pull up at the handsome Taormina-Giardini station on the water’s edge, below town. It’s a very steep thirty-minute walk up to Taormina (turn right out of the station and then, after 200m, left through a gap in the buildings, marked “Centro”) and the road is extremely busy. Much better to take one of the Interbus buses (every 30min to an hour) that pick up outside the train station, or else arrive by bus at the bus terminal, on Via Luigi Pirandello in Taormina itself: bear left up the road from the terminal, turn through the Porta Messina, and the main street, Corso Umberto I, lies before you. If you’re arriving by car, make for the Porta Catania multistorey car park, situated below Piazza S. Antonio. The central tourist office (Mon–Thurs 8.30am–2pm & 4–7pm, Fri 8.30am–2pm; T 0942.23.243, W www.gate2taormina.com) is in the fourteenth-century Palazzo Corvaja, off Piazza Vittorio Emanuele, the ﬁrst square you come to. There is also a small and very helpful tourist office in the train station, open Monday to Friday 9am to 1.30pm (T 0942.52189, W www.strgiardini.it).

Accommodation Finding accommodation in summer is a time-consuming business, so it’s well worth booking ahead. There’s also a small youth hostel, Taormina’s Odyssey (T 0942.24.533, W www.taorminaodyssey.com; €19 per bed; double rooms 1 ) at Via Paterno di Biscaria 13, near Porta Catania; book well ahead to secure a bed. El Jebel Salita Palazzo Ciampoli, T0942.625.494, W www.hoteleljebel.com. Taormina’s brand-new shrine to conspicuous consumption, its nine suites occupying three ﬂoors of a dandiﬁed ﬁfteenth-

century palazzo up a ﬂight of steps from the main corso. There’s no trace of anything medieval inside, instead it’s all very Hollywood-Dubai: lavish bathrooms caked in treacly, liquorice-veined

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| Taormina

marble, gold taps, claw-foot baths, and enough mirrors to make narcissists feel they’ve died and gone to heaven. The rooms themselves are more subdued, spacious and very comfortable. Service is excellent, and waiter-served breakfasts are exceptional. Expect to feel discreetly pampered, especially at the spa. Suites from €600 a night. 9 Leone Via Bagnoli Croce 126 T&F 0942.23.878. Simple place close to the public gardens, which also has one of the few no-frills bars in town (you can get a glass of wine for €1.50). No credit cards. 1 Pensione Svizzera Via Pirandello 26 T 0942.23.790, W www.hotelpensionesvizzera .com. Just up from the bus terminal and cable-car station this comfortable hotel has excellent views from its spacious rooms (with varying prices depending on size and view), 24hr bar service, free wi-ﬁ throughout and a shuttle to a private beach. 3 –4 San Domenico Palace Piazza San Domenico 5 T 0942.613.111, W www .thi.it. The last word in luxury. One of the most celebrated hotels in Italy, housed in a ﬁfteenthcentury convent, with gorgeous formal gardens, unsurpassable views, a Michelin-starred restaurant, and stratospheric prices. Staff are refreshingly both relaxed and gracious. Luxuriate in one of the €3000-per-night suites, and you feel you’ve died and gone to heaven. 9 Villa Belvedere Via Bagnoli Croce 79 T 0942.23.791, Wwww.villabelvedere.it. Decent, if unexciting rooms; there’s a great pool in a lavish garden, and fantastic views. 5 Villa Carlotta Via Pirandello 81 T0942.626.058, W www.hotelvillacarlottataormina.com. Splendidly sited above the sea among abundant subtropical vegetation, this hotel could not be anywhere other than Taormina. There’s a roof garden with spectacular views of Mount Etna and the sea

(very romantic and candle-lit at night), and a terraced garden with a small pool set among citrus and olive trees, bougainvillea and mint, lying between the walls of an old chapel and remains of a Romano-Byzantine cemetery. There’s a comfortable, homey sitting room with books, games and snooze-inducing sofas, and all the stylish rooms but one have bathtubs. Good deals on website. 5 –6 Villa Floresta Via Damiano Rosso 1 T0942.620.184 or 331.708.0115, W www .villaﬂoresta.it. Pleasant, family-run B&B in a nineteenth-century palazzo tucked into a courtyard with a crumbling ﬁfteenth-century staircase behind Piazza del Duomo. 3 Villa Greta Via Leonardo da Vinci 41 T0942.28.286, Wwww.villagreta.it. Family-run place 15min walk out of town on the road up to Castelmola, with superb balcony views, as well as a dining room with good home-cooking. In winter, there’s tea with complimentary home-made cakes and biscuits. 3 Villa Sara Via Leonardo da Vinci 55 T0942.28.138, Wwww.villasara.net. Exceptional B&B a 15min walk (or a brief bus ride) up the road to Castelmola. It doesn’t look much from the outside, but behind the bare walls is a gracious two-storey apartment where a friendly family rent out three spacious rooms, each with its own bathroom and its own large terrace commanding great views over Taormina, Etna and the sea. 2 Villa Schuler Piazzetta Bastione T 0942.23.481, Wwww.villaschuler.com. This lovely old hotel has been in the same family of German émigrés for a century, and retains the feel of an elegant family-run pensione (they take no tour groups). There are great views from its rooms and terrace, and a beautiful garden behind. Worth checking the website for special offers. 4

The Town

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The Teatro Greco (daily 9am to 1hr before sunset; €8) is a great starting point, its panoramic views encompassing southern Calabria, the Sicilian coastline and snowcapped Etna. It was founded by Greeks in the third century BC but the visible remains are almost entirely Roman, dating from the end of the ﬁrst century AD, when Taormina thrived under imperial Roman rule. The theatre was converted to stage gladiatorial combat and a deep trench was dug in the orchestra to accommodate animals and ﬁghters. Between July and August the theatre hosts an international arts festival including ﬁlm, theatre and music (tickets and information from the tourist office). There are a few other Roman vestiges around town, including a much smaller Odeon (used for musical recitations) next to the tourist office. Really, though, Taormina’s attractions are all to do with strolling and window-shopping along

the Corso. Centre of town is Piazza IX Aprile, with its restored twelfthcentury Torre dell’Orologio and fabulous views of Etna and the bay from the terraces of its pricey cafés. Fused to a crag ﬁve kilometres above Taormina, and reached by regular bus, is the small, and often claustrophobically touristy village of Castelmola. To escape the crowds, take the path behind the cemetery up to the heights of Monte Venere (885m; about 2hr) – for marvellous local vistas.

Eating, drinking and nightlife

touristy appearance, is popular with locals for its fresh food: the moderately-priced mixed vegetable or mixed ﬁsh antipasti are particularly good. Servings are ample, so you should be able to eat well for around €25. Vecchia Taormina Vico Ebrei 3 T 0942.24.359. Popular pizzeria in an alley across from the Duomo serving light, blistered pizzas from its wood-ﬁred oven. Prices are what you’d expect for the location, but it’s a pleasant spot, and a good choice if you’re with restless kids.

| Taormina

Al Grappola d’Uva Via Bagnoli Croce 6–8. Friendly, unpretentious wine bar – a good place to sample Etna wines and local cheeses. They can also organize tours of Etna’s vineyards. A’Zammara Via Fratelli Bandiera 15 T 0942.24.408. Romantic place where you sit in a garden of orange trees eating the likes of home-made tagliolini with prawns and pistachios (€12.50). Expect to pay around €40 for a full meal including wine. Trattoria da Nino Via Luigi Pirandello 37 T 0942.21.265. Welcoming place, that despite its

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Eating in Taormina can be an expensive business. For snacks, or picnic ingredients head for the indoor market off Via Cappuccini (mornings only, Mon–Sat). Nightlife in Taormina is none too exciting, with most of the action focused on the gay bars around gorgeous Piazza Paladini, just off the Corso. For unpretentious after-dinner boozing head for the boho Re di Bastoni, Corso Umberto I (closed Mon in winter), or the Irish pub O’Seven, Largo La Farina 6. For an aperitif or after-dinner drink, the place to go is the Wunderbar Café, Piazza IX Aprile, once the haunt of Garbo and Fassbinder.

Taormina’s beaches The coastline below the town is a tantalizing combination of grottoes and rocky coves but many of its beaches are either private lidos or simply too packed in summer to be much fun. The closest beach to town is Mazzarò with its muchphotographed offshore islet. There’s a cable car service down to the beach (€2 one way, €3.50 return) that runs every ﬁfteen minutes from Via Pirandello (the road that encircles old Taormina) as well as a steep path that starts just below the cable-car station. The huge resort of Giardini-Naxos, a favourite with international package companies, is best avoided: there are far better places in Sicily for a sun-and-sand holiday. If you do fancy staying along the coast here, the best target is ACIREALE, superbly sited high above the rocky shore, and surrounded by lemon groves. It’s been a spa town since Roman times, but was destroyed by the devastating 1693 eruption of Etna, and rebuilt over the solidiﬁed streams of lava. Today, the town is known for hosting some of the best Carnevale celebrations in the country, with extraordinarily elaborate ﬂower-decked ﬂoats and fancy dress parades taking over the city for ﬁve noisy days. It is easier to arrive in Acireale by bus than by train, as the bus stops in the centre; the train stops to the south of town near a complex of thermal baths. Having wandered the town, be sure to head down to the little seaside settlement of Santa Maria La Scala, huddled around a miniscule harbour full of painted ﬁshing boats, with three or four little trattorias. To get here on foot, go down Via Romeo (to the side of the Municipio), cross the busy main road, and then take the steep little path that runs down to the water.

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Mount Etna and the Gole di Alcantara

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| Mount Etna and the Gole di Alcantara 908

The bleak lava wilderness around the summit of Etna is one of the most memorable landscapes Italy has to offer. The volano’s height is constantly shifting, depending on whether eruptions are constructive or destructive, and over the last century it has ranged from 3263m to the present estimate of 3340m. Whatever its exact height, Etna is a substantial mountain, one of the world’s biggest active volcanoes, and on a clear day it can be seen from well over half of Sicily. Some of its eruptions have been disastrous: in 1169, 1329 and 1381 the lava reached the sea and in 1669 Catania was wrecked and its castle surrounded by molten rock. The Circumetnea railway line has been repeatedly ruptured by lava ﬂows: nine people were killed on the edge of the main crater in 1979 and in 2001 military helicopters were called in to water-bomb blazing ﬁres. This unpredictability means that it is no longer possible to get close to the main crater. An eruption in 1971 destroyed the observatory supposed to give warning of just such an event, and the volcano has been in an almost continual state of eruption since 1998, the most recent being in late 2002 when the resort of Piano Provenzana on the northern side was engulfed with lava. If you do attempt the summit, be sure to heed the warnings. While in the area, try to make time, too, for the dramatic riverscapes of the Gole di Alcantara, between the northern slopes of Etna and the foothills of the Peloritani mountains.

Mount Etna: the ascent There are several approaches to the volcano. If you have a car, you can enjoy some of the best scenery on the north side of the volcano by taking the circular road that leads up from Linguaglossa to Piano Provenzana, a good place to bring the kids to learn to ski or toboggan. Note that the ski season on Etna lasts from around November to March. There are a couple of rifugi here – the comfortable, warm Rifugio Ragabo (T 095.647.841, W www.ragabo.it; €50 per person, half board), and the more basic Rifugio Citelli (T 095.930.000, W www.caipedara .it; 1 ), from where the views on a clear day stretch over the Ionian sea to the Aspromonte mountains of Calabria. Both organize excursions, and can help you organize skiing in winter. On public transport, you’ll just see Etna from the southern side, though this does at least get you pretty near the summit. Although there are frequent buses to Nicolosi from Catania, only one (around 8am from outside Catania train station) continues to the Hotel/Rifugio Sapienza at the end of the negotiable road up the south side of Etna. In summer 2001 and winter 2002 this was a scene of frenetic activity, when dams and channels were cut to contain the molten lava that threatened to engulf the whole area. However, the row of souvenir shops, the couple of restaurants, and the totally refurbished Hotel/Rifugio Sapienza (T 095.915.321; 3 ) are still standing, surrounded by rills of lava. Arriving on the early-morning bus, you should have enough time to make it to the top and get back for the return bus to Catania – it leaves around 4.30pm from the hotel. There are two ways up the volcano from the refuge, by foot or cable car. Now open again after being destroyed in the last eruption, cable cars run between 9am and sunset, weather permitting (€51 return). The price includes a minibus from the top cable-car station to just below the main crater, though many people prefer to walk. Walking up from Rifugio Sapienza will take around four hours. However you go, at whatever time of year, take warm clothes, good shoes or boots and glasses to keep the ﬂying grit out of your eyes. You can rent boots and jackets cheaply from the cable-car station. Food up the mountain is poor and overpriced.

Touring Etna’s foothills: the Circumetnea railway

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| Mount Etna and the Gole di Alcantara

A private line, 114km long, the Circumetnea railway (T095.541.250, W www .circumetnea.it) runs around the base of the volcano passing lava-strewn slopes. The line runs between Catania and Giarre-Risposto, taking about three hours and thirty minutes, and you could start either at Catania (Borgo Stazione, see p.910) or, if approaching from Taormina, at Giarre. There are usually about ﬁve services daily in winter and four in summer. Returning to Catania by regular train from Giarre will take twenty minutes, and the journey between Giarre and Taormina also twenty minutes. Getting off the train to visit some of the towns en route is possible, but not always easy: at Bronte for example, which produces 80 percent of Italy‘s pistachios, the town centre is a long, steep climb up from the station, though the pistachio ice creams and other sweet goodies on offer in its cafés might persuade you it is worth it. You might want to make a beeline for the little village of Maletto in June, when it hosts a strawberry festival, the Sagra di Fragola, while for anyone interested in wine, a stop at Passopisciaro and Solicchiata is a must: a rare chance to visit pre-phylloxera vineyards, and avant-garde producers such as Frank Cornellisen (T 0942.986.315), who shuns the use of sulphates, and Andrea Franchetti (T338.130.0778), producer of the internationally renowned and prize-winning Passopisciaro. Most people, however, choose to break the journey at dark, medieval Randazzo, the town closest to the summit of Etna, and built entirely of lava. Dangerously near Etna, Randazzo has never actually been engulfed, although the lava ﬂow came so close in 1981 that the town was evacuated: you can see the lava ﬁelds clearly on the fringes of town. Poke around the dour streets – meticulously restored after being bombed to bits in 1943, when it ﬁgured as the last Sicilian stronghold of the Axis forces – and stop for lunch at San Giorgio e Il Drago, Piazza San Giorgio 28 (T095.923.972; closed Tues & most of Jan), a trattoria in a nineteenth-century wine cellar. If you decide you want to stay close to Etna, the nicest place, especially if you have children, is the Turismo Rurale Parco Statella (T095.924.036, W www.parco statella.com; 2 –3 ), an eighteenth-century villa with a vast park, horseriding, and its own restaurant, 2km outside town on the way to Linguaglossa.

The Gole di Alcantara Around 2400 BC, the volcano of Monte Moia, at the head of the Alcantara valley, erupted, smothering the river and ﬁlling the valley with lava. Over four millennia, the river has carved its way through the deposits of slick grey basalt, scooping it into all manner of strange, sculptural rock formations. Heading along the SS185 from the coast just south of Taormina, the most theatrical (and touristy) part of the gorge is at Motta Camastra. There’s a visitor centre (see box, p.910), a restaurant and souvenir shops. A couple of hundred metres after the visitor centre, there is free public access to the gorge, down a ﬂight of steps. If you want to escape the crowds, continue another 4km to the largely modern town of Francavilla di Sicilia. Here, following brown signs to Le Gurne, you twist up to the ancient, and largely abandoned, centre of town, from where a well-marked path winds down to the river, through groves of citrus and nut trees overlooked by a toothy old castle. Here you’ll ﬁnd a series of waterfalls and natural round ponds where you can swim. The nicest place to stay in the Alcantara valley is Castiglione di Sicilia. Fused to a hilltop high above the valley, the town’s lovely weather-eroded houses with pantiled roofs cluster below the remains of a castle founded in the ﬁfth century BC by Greek exiles from nearby Naxos. There are plenty of old churches to poke around, though the most remarkable of these is a perfectly restored Byzantine chapel in the valley below, known as “La Cuba” for its perfect symmetry. Behind

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Etna and Alcantara activities The visitor centre (8am to 1hr before sunset; T0942.985010, Wwww.terralcantara .it; €7 entry, plus extra for excursions) at Motta Camastra (see p.909) arranges excursions in the Etna region. You can go on guided walks, take on whitewater rafting, or rent waders and salopettes to waddle and splash down the river when the water level is deemed low enough to be safe. There are also guided quad excursions in the Alcantara valley or up Mount Etna (T0942.980.338 or 339.879.2940, Wwww .siciliaquad.com).

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| Catania

“La Cuba” a path leads to the river, where there are more little waterfalls and pools. Castiglione’s real pleasures are gastronomic: at Alcantara Formaggi, Via Federico II (T 0942.984.268), the Camiglia family produce a range of traditional and inventive cheeses, mostly made of local sheep’s milk; while the Dispensa dell’Etna, Piazza Sant’Antonio 2 (T 339.713.9000), is a wine bar and restaurant showcasing an exuberant range of local wines, preserves and other produce. If you want to stay, try the smart little hotel with a great restaurant off the main piazza: Hotel Federico II, Via Maggiore Baracca 2 (T 0942.980.368, W www.hotel federicosecondo.com; 2 ).

Catania Bang in the middle of the Ionian coast, CATANIA is Sicily’s second-largest city, a major transport hub, a thriving commercial centre, and a lively, energetic place with a more international outlook than Palermo. Deﬁned by Etna – even the city’s main street is named after the volcano – and the ubiquitous black-grey volcanic stone in pavements and buildings, there’s more openness and space than in Palermo, but far less to see, as the ancient and medieval city was engulfed by lava in 1669, and then devastated by an earthquake in 1693. Spearheaded by architect Giovanni Vaccarini, Catania was rebuilt swiftly and on a grand scale, making full use of the lava that had been the old city’s nemesis.

Arrival and information

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The airport, Fontanarossa (T 095.340.505, W www.aeroporto.catania.it), is 5km south of the centre. The Alibus #457 (5am–midnight; every 20min; €1) runs from right outside to the central Piazza Stesicoro (on Via Etnea) and to Stazione Centrale in around twenty minutes. A taxi from the rank outside the airport costs around €15 for the same. If you’re heading straight to the Aeolian Islands, there are two direct buses run daily (April–Sept) from the airport to the port of Milazzo at 11.50am and 5pm. The Stazione Centrale (T 892.021), where all mainline trains arrive, is in Piazza Giovanni XXIII, northeast of the centre. To get into the centre, take one of the AMT (T 095.751.9111, W www.amt.ct.it) city buses from the ranks outside the station: #1/4 (not Sun), #4/7, #432 and #448 run along Via VI Aprile and Via Vittorio Emanuele to Piazza del Duomo. Tickets cost €1 for a single journey, €2.50 for a day-pass (giornaliero). For the round-Etna train, head to the Stazione Circumetnea (T 095.541.250, W www.circumetnea.it; see box, p.909) at Via Caronda, at the northern end of Via Etnea, by the Borgo metro station.

Catania’s tourist information service is currently being reorganized but, at the time of writing, the tourist office (Mon–Fri 8am–2pm, Wed also 3–7pm; T 095.747.7415) is off Corso Italia at Via Alberto Mario 32, with helpful and efficient staff, who can provide information on Catania and Acireale. There’s also a useful office with information on the city only at Via Vittorio Emanuele 172, close to the Duomo (Mon–Fri 8.15am–1.15pm & 1.45–7.15pm, Sat 8.15am– 1.15pm; T 800.841.042, W www.comune.catania.it/turismo). The information Stazione Circumetnea

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ACCOMMODATION EATING & DRINKING Molo Agora Antica Marina 8 Vecchio B&B 5 Balconi De Fiore 2 B&B BaD Camelot 9 B&B Bianca La Collegiata 3 B&B Casa Barbero Nievski 5 Holland International Savia 1 Hotel Gresi Sicilia in Bocca 6 & 7 La Vetreria The Other Place Liberty Hotel Pub 4 Una Hotel Airport, Beaches & Campsites

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office inside Stazione Centrale is currently closed, but may re-open; the one at Catania airport (Mon–Sat 8am–8am, Sun 10am–4pm; T 095.093.7023) provides information only on Siracusa. For what’s on check out the Catania editions of daily newspapers La Sicilia and the Gazzetta del Sud, and the free fortnightly arts and entertainment guide, Lapis.

City transport

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| Catania

Catania is served by a network of AMT city buses, whose main ranks are outside the Stazione Centrale. Other central pick-up points are Piazza del Duomo, Piazza Stesicoro, and Piazza Borsellino (below Piazza del Duomo), where there’s a stop for the airport. Tickets (€1) are valid for any number of journeys within ninety minutes and are available from tabacchi, the newsagents inside Stazione Centrale or the booth outside the station. The same outlets also sell a biglietto giornaliero (€2.50), valid for one day’s unlimited travel on all local AMT bus routes. The city has a metro system (T 095.534.323), which operates every ﬁfteen minutes (7am–8.30pm) on a limited route running from the main Stazione Centrale (beyond Platform 11) south to Catania Porto and north and northwest to Catania Borgo, the terminal for the Stazione Circumetnea on Via Caronda. Tickets cost €0.90 for any number of journeys within ninety minutes, and are available from tabacchi at the train station. All tickets must be punched at machines before boarding the train. There are taxi ranks at Stazione Centrale, Piazza del Duomo and Via Etnea (Piazza Stesicoro); call T 095.330.966 or 095.338.282 for 24-hour service. Driving and parking in Catania is a stressful experience: ask at your hotel where to park.

Accommodation Catania has a wide choice of places to stay. As well as the places listed below, there’s a private hostel, the A Agora, on Piazza Currò (T 095.723.3010, W www .agorahostel.com), offering dorm bunks (€15–21) and a couple of doubles (1 ), with internet access and laundry facilities. It also owns one of Catania’s most popular and atmospheric pubs, the Agora, where you can eat and drink from morning till the early hours outside or in an underground grotto, which has a river running through it.

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B&B 5 Balconi Via del Plebiscito 133 T 338.727.2701, W www.5balconi.it. Stylish B&B run by a friendly young Italo-English couple in an old-fashioned, neighbourly quarter behind Castello Ursino. The three rooms are furnished with elegant ﬂea-market ﬁnds. As the name implies, it has ﬁve balconies. Breakfast includes traditional Catanese pastries. 1 B&B BaD Via C. Colombo 24 T095.346.903, Wwww.badcatania.it. Four rooms and an apartment in a funky, self-styled designer B&B owned by a couple of graphic designers, conveniently located behind the Pescheria and Piazza del Duomo. 2 B&B Bianca Via S. Tomaselli 43 T095.989.0989, Wwww.bianca-bb.it Young, friendly B&B behind the Giardino Bellini, where the owners will make sure you are well-informed about what’s going on in Catania. There are two rooms, at present with shared bathroom. The communal area is a cheerful

place to hang out and chat, with white walls and ﬁttings, scarlet chairs, and a tangerine sofa where you can ﬂop and watch a DVD. 2 B&B Casa Barbero Via Caronda 209 T095.820.6301, Wwww.casabarbero.it. Deft use of contemporary colours and design in a beautifully restored Liberty-era palazzo with six quiet rooms set around a courtyard. Breakfast is served either in the courtyard, or in the elaborately stuccoed and frescoed dining room, at tables elegantly laid with Japanese-style ceramics and modern pewter. Bikes for guest use (free but €100 deposit). 2 –3 Holland International Via Vittorio Emanuele 8 T 095.533.605, W www.hollandintrooms.it. Old-fashioned pensione, convenient for the station, and competitive prices for rooms on the ﬁrst ﬂoor of an old palazzo with vaulted frescoed ceilings. The air-conditioned rooms come with

| Catania

in an early twentieth-century palazzo, a 10min walk from Via Etnea. Wonderfully refurbished in carefully researched Liberty style, the hotel has a calm atmosphere and a trellis-shaded courtyard, making this an ideal place to recuperate after a long journey. There are good-value discounts and packages including trips to Etna, available on the website. There’s no restaurant, but a local pizzeria will deliver to the hotel. 3 –4 Una Hotel Via Etnea 218 T095.250.5111, Wwww .unahotels.it. Chic designer hotel belonging to a national chain, whose decor reﬂects the dominant black and cream tones of the city’s Baroque architecture: ﬂoors of Etna lava and Comiso limestone; beds laid with cream cotton and black velvet; and Baroque-style chairs sprayed gold and upholstered in black velvet. Facilities include roof terrace and restaurant-bar with spectacular views of Etna; and a gym with steam bath. Check website for offers, and packages especially for weekend stays. 4

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and without bathroom and all have satellite TV and tea- and coffee-making facilities. There is free wi-ﬁ, and the friendly Dutch owner speaks good English. 1 Hotel Gresi Via Pacini 28 T 095.322.709, Wwww .gresihotel.com. Newly refurbished traditional hotel, with a pleasantly old-fashioned atmosphere, where the spacious rooms have frescoed ceilings. Good location between Via Etnea and the bustling Piazza Carlo Alberto market. 3 La Vetreria Via Grimaldi 8 T095.281.537, W www.residencelavetreria.com. The breakfast room with toy cupboard and little table and chairs signals straight away that this is a place where kids are genuinely welcomed. Occupying a 1920s mirror factory, this popular hotel has tastefully furnished, spacious rooms, and apartments with cooking facilities. 4 Liberty Hotel Via San Vito 40 T095.311.651, W www.libertyhotel.it. Intimate and romantic hotel

The City Catania’s main square, Piazza del Duomo, is a handy orientation point and a stop for most city buses: Via Etnea heads north, lined with the city’s most fashionable shops and cafés; the ﬁsh market and port lie behind to the south; the train station to the east; and the best of the Baroque quarter to the west. It’s also one of Sicily’s most attractive city squares, rebuilt completely in the ﬁrst half of the eighteenth century by Vaccarini. Most striking of the buildings is the Municipio on the northern side, best seen from the central reserve of the piazza beside the elephant fountain, the city’s symbol, an eighteenth-century lava elephant supporting an Egyptian obelisk on its back. The Duomo (daily 9am–noon & 4–6pm; free) on the piazza’s eastern ﬂank, retains marvellous volcanic-rock medieval apses (seen through the gate at Via Vittorio Emanuele 159), though the rest was remodelled by Vaccarini, who incorporated granite columns from Catania’s Roman amphitheatre (see below) onto the facade. The interior has a series of richly adorned chapels, notably the Cappella di Sant’Agata to the right of the choir, which holds the relics of the saint paraded through the city on her feast day. Nearby is Catania’s market, with slabs and buckets full of twitching ﬁsh, endless lanes of vegetable and fruit stalls, and a couple of excellent lunchtime trattorias. From here you can wind through an atmospheric, if dilapidated, neighbourhood to an open space punctured by the Castello Ursino, once the proud fortress of Frederick II. Originally the castle stood on a rocky cliff, over the beach, but following the 1669 eruption, which reclaimed this entire area from the sea, all that remains is the blackened keep. Back towards the centre, Via Crociferi is lined with some of the most arresting religious and secular Baroque buildings in the city, best seen on a slow amble, peering in the eighteenth-century courtyards and churches. At the bottom of the street, the house where composer Vincenzo Bellini was born in 1801 now houses the Museo Belliniano (Mon–Sat 9am–1pm; T 095.715.0535), a collection of photographs, original scores, his death mask and other memorabilia. West from here, the Teatro Romano (Tues–Sat 9am–1.30pm & 2.30–7.30pm; free) was built of lava in the second century AD on the site of an earlier Greek theatre, and much of the seating and the underground passageways are preserved. Further west,

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down Via Teatro Greco, the pretty crescent of Piazza Dante stares out over the unﬁnished facade of San Nicolò (Mon—Sat 9am–1pm; free), the biggest church in Sicily, stark and empty of detail both outside and in – save for a meridian line drawn across the ﬂoor of the transept. Nearby, a few minutes’ walk north, the little twelfth-century church of Sant’Agata al Carcere was built on the site of the prison where St Agatha was conﬁned before her martyrdom. From here, you drop down into Piazza Stesicoro, the enormous square that marks the modern centre of Catania, one half of which is almost entirely occupied by the closed-off, sunken, black remains of the Anﬁteatro Romano, dating back to the second or third century AD. In its heyday, the amphitheatre could hold around sixteen thousand spectators, and from the church steps above you can see the seating quite clearly. S I C I LY

Eating

| Catania

They take food seriously in Catania, as the city centre’s bustling markets testify. For the best snacks, try the markets in Piazza Carlo Alberto and the stall-heavy streets through the Porta Uzeda, to the south of the Duomo. Another popular area for food is lively Piazza Federico di Svevia outside the Castello Ursino. Don’t miss the chance to sample the Catanese speciality selz – fruit and nut syrups with soda water – served at kiosks throughout the city, most famously on Piazza Vittorio Emanuele (corner of Corso Umberto and Via Oberdan). Antica Marina Via Pardo 29 T 095.348.197. Trattoria bang in the heart of the ﬁsh market where you can eat reasonably-priced fresh ﬁsh on tables laid with paper cloths. Closed Wed. Camelot Piazza Federico di Svevia 75 T095.723.2103. Lively place where you can feast for a song on Sicilian antipasti and barbecued meat and drink local wine from plastic cups. Open eves only; closed Mon. De Fiore Via Coppola 24 T095.316.283. Cosy, family-run trattoria, serving good, traditional Sicilian food at moderate prices. Closed Mon in winter.

Savia Via Etnea 302. Located opposite the main entrance to the Villa Bellini, this is one of the town’s ﬁnest stand-up café-bars, and has a ﬁne choice of sweet pastries and savouries. Closed Mon. Sicilia in Bocca Piazza Pietro Lupo 16–18 T095.746.1361, and an old warehouse on Via Dusmet T095.315.472. Two branches of a popular and fairly expensive restaurant. A good option for Sicilian specialities such as pennette alla norma and swordﬁsh involtini. Piazza Pietro Lupo branch closed Wed; Via Dusmet branch closed Mon.

Bars and nightlife Catania’s city council operates café-concerto periods during the summer, when the streets and squares of the old town, between Piazza Università and Piazza Bellini, are closed to traffic between 9pm and 2am. The bars here all spill tables out onto the squares and alleys, and live bands keep things swinging until late. Catania’s student population ensures a fair choice of youthful bars and pubs – some with live music – that stay open late. Three good choices are La Collegiata, Via Collegiata 3, a studenty place with a pleasant terrace for a night-time drink; Nievski, on Via Alessi 15, a funky, alternative joint occupying several ﬂoors of a ramshackle building (closed Sun lunch & Mon); and ﬁnally, The Other Place Pub, Via E. Reina 18.

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Buses The bus station is at Piazza Giovanni XXIII, opposite the train station. AST (T 095.723, W www.aziendasicilianatrasporti.it; Rifugio Sapienza, Nicolosi, Módica, Scicli, Piazza Armerina and Siracusa); Interbus/Etna

Trasporti (T 095.532.716, W www.interbus.it; Enna, Noto, Piazza Armerina, Ragusa, Siracusa and Taormina); SAIS (T 095.536.201, W www.saisautolinee.it; Agrigento, Enna, Messina, Palermo).

Internet access Internetteria, Via Penninello 44, just off Via Etnea T095.310.139. Open Mon–Sat 10am–11pm, Sun (winter only) 5–10pm. Pharmacies Croce Rossa, Via Etnea 274 T095.317.053; Cutelli, Via Vittorio Emanuele II 54 T095.531.400; Europa, Corso Italia 111 T095.383.536. Open all night. Police Emergencies T112; Carabinieri, Piazza Giovanni Verga 8, or Vigili Urbani, Via Veniero 7 T095.531.333. The Questura (police station) is in Piazza S. Nicolella 8 T095.736.7111. Post ofﬁce Main post ofﬁce and poste restante at Via Etnea 215, close to the Villa Bellini (Mon–Sat 8.15am–6.30pm). Travel agents La Duca Viaggi, Piazza Europa 2 T095.722.2295.

Under ancient Greek rule, Siracusa was the most important city in the Western world. Today it is one of Sicily’s main draws, thanks to an extensive archeological park, and a charming historic centre occupying an offshore island where Greek, Roman, medieval and Baroque buildings of mellow golden limestone tangle along a labyrinth of cobbled streets. In between the two, is modern Siracusa, a busy and functional city of undistinguished apartment-lined boulevards.

| Siracusa

Siracusa

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Car rental Avis at the airport and Via V. Cágliari 1, central booking line T0645.2108.391, W www.avis.co.uk or www.avisautonoleggio.it; Sixt at airport T095.340.252 and Via Umberto 294/B T 095.538.831, Wwww.e-sixt.co.uk or www.sixt.it; Hertz at airport T 095.341.595 and Via Toselli T 095.322.560, W www.hertz.co.uk or www.hertz.it; Holiday Car Rental at airport T 095.346.769, Wwww.holidaycarrental.it; Maggiore at airport T 095.340.594 and Piazza G. Verga T095.536.927, W www.maggiore.com or www.maggiore.it. Emergencies T 113 for all emergency services. Hospital Ospedale Garibaldi, Piazza Maria di Gesù 7, Pronto Soccorso T 095.759.4368.

Some history

It’s hardly surprising that Siracusa attracted Greek colonists from Corinth, who settled the site in 733 BC. An easily defendable offshore island with fertile plains across on the mainland and two natural harbours, it was the perfect site for a city, and within a hundred years, ancient Syracuse was so powerful that it was sending out its own colonists to the south and west of the island, and soon became the power base of ancient Sicily’s most famous and effective rulers. Syracuse assumed an almost mythic eminence under Gelon, the tyrant of Gela, who began work on the city’s Temple of Athena. It was an unparalleled period of Greek prosperity and power in Sicily, though this troubled Athens, and in 415 BC a ﬂeet of 134 triremes was dispatched to take Syracuse – only to be destroyed. Those who survived were imprisoned in the city’s stone quarries. In the fourth century BC, under Dionysius the Elder, the city became a great military base, the tyrant building the Euryalus fort and erecting strong city walls. Syracuse more or less remained the leading power in Europe for two hundred years until it was attacked by the Romans in 215 BC. The subsequent two-year siege was made long and hazardous for the attackers by the mechanical devices contrived by Archimedes – who was killed by a foot soldier as the Romans ﬁnally triumphed. From this time, Syracuse withered in importance. It became, brieﬂy, a major religious centre in the early Christian period, but for the most part its days of power were done: in the medieval era it was sacked by the Saracens and most of its later Norman buildings fell in the 1693 earthquake. Passed by until the twentieth century, the city suffered a double blow in World War II when it was bombed by the Allies and then, after its capture, by the Luftwaffe in 1943. Luckily, the extensive ancient remains were little damaged, and although decay and new development have reduced the attractions of the modern city, Siracusa remains one of the most fascinating cities on the island.

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Orientation

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The original Greek settlement was on the fortiﬁed island of Ortigia, which is late-medieval in character, but with a generous sprinkling of Baroque exuberance: it’s compact enough to see in a good half-day’s stroll. The Greek city spread onto the mainland in four distinct areas: Achradina, over the water from Ortigia, was the city’s commercial and administrative centre and today encompasses the new streets that radiate out from the train station; Tyche, to the northeast, was residential and now holds the archeological museum and the city’s extensive catacombs; Neapolis, to the west, is the site of the fascinating archeological park based on ancient Syracuse’s public and social amenities; while Epipolae stretches way to the northwest, to the city’s outer defensive walls and the Euryalus fort.

Arrival and information

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The train station is on the mainland, a twenty-minute walk from either Ortigia or Neapolis. AST city and regional buses (T 0931.462.711) stop across the road from here, on Via Rubino. The most useful city bus stops are along Corso Umberto and Corso Gelone on the mainland, and on Piazza Pancali, Corso Matteotti, Piazza Archimede, Via Maestranza and the Talete car park on Ortigia; tickets cost €1, valid for two hours. Drivers will ﬁnd the city a breeze after Palermo and Catania, and parking places relatively easy to come by. For maps, accommodation, details of performances in the Greek theatre, and other information, the extremely helpful and well-informed InfoPoint is inside the provincial offices at Via Roma 30 (Mon–Fri 9am–1pm & 2.30–5.30pm, Sat 9am–1pm; T 0931.462.946 or 800.055.500, E [email protected]). The larger APT tourist office at Via Maestranza 33 in Ortigia (Mon–Thurs 8.15am–1.45pm & 2.45–5.30pm, Fri 8.15am–2pm; T 0931.464.256) has more brochures, but not necessarily more information. The main post office is in Piazza delle Poste.

Accommodation There’s a good choice of accommodation, but in high summer and during the theatre season (May–June) it’s wise to book in advance. The nearest campsite, Agriturist Rinaura (T 0931.721.224), is 4km away and open all year – take bus #21, #22 or #23, #24 or #25 from outside the station. They also have bungalows to rent (2 ). If you prefer to rent an apartment, W www.kasette.it and www .ilsoleazzurro.com have a good choice of quality places both in Ortigia, and outside Siracusa by the sea, while W www.lacasadellefate.it has well-appointed mini-apartments on Via Santa Teresa that start at €60 per night.

Siracusa by bike

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Cycling is a great way of getting around, with a new cycle-route under construction from Ortigia west along the coast and out of the city. The Go Bike scheme has bikes available at a dozen or so key points throughout Ortigia and Siracusa, including Piazza Svevia, Fonte Aretusa, Piazza Archimede, Talete, Stazione Centrale and Neapolis. To sign up, go to Bar Oasi, Corso Umberto I 19 (T 0931.65598), with your passport or other ID. Rates are €10 for one day, €20 for three days or €40 for a week. Bikes are kept in locked stands that are released by inserting your tessera or plastic card, and need to be returned every night before you go to bed.

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ACCOMMODATION Algila Ares Caol Ishka Giuggiulena Gutowski L’Approdo delle Sirene Lol Hostel Palazzo del Sale

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EATING & DRINKING Al Mazari Don Camillo Il Blu La Foglia Locanda Mastrarua Seby Sicilia in Tavola

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Algila Via Vittorio Veneto 93 T 0931.465.186, W www.algila.it. Recently opened hotel on the eastern seafront of Ortigia, which has all the comforts of a four-star hotel, plus friendly, helpful staff. Styled by Siracusa-born theatre director, Manuel Gilliberti, the design has a Mahgreb feel, with Tunisian tiles in the bathrooms, kilims on the ﬂoors, watercolours of sun-scorched palms and North African piazzas, and a tiny decorative courtyard with fountain. 7 L’Approdo delle Sirene Riva Garibaldi 15 T0931.24.857, Wwww.apprododellesirene .com. Family-run B&B in a tastefully renovated waterfront palazzo overlooking the channel between Ortigia and the mainland. Facilities include mini-laptops in rooms, and free wi-ﬁ. Owned and run by a charming mother-and-son team, Fiora runs cooking courses in her apartment next door, and Friedrich, who has just trained as a pizza chef, is opening a pizzeria. Great home-made breakfasts. with abundant fresh fruit are served on a terrace overlooking the sea. You can also borrow bikes, free of charge. 3 Ares Via Mirabella 49 T 0931.461.145, W www .aresbedandbreakfast.it. Comfortable B&B on a quiet street, a skip and a jump from the sea, on the less-touristy east side of Ortigia. Rooms are smart and spotless, there’s a lovely roof terrace, and owner Enzo will go out of his way to make sure guests have all the information they need on Ortigia. Breakfast is by voucher at the fabulous Bar del Duomo opposite the cathedral, just a few minutes’ walk away. 2 Caol Ishka Via Elorina, Contrada Pantanelli, Siracusa T 0931.69.057, Wwww.caolishka .it. Minimalist chic in a cluster of traditional stone farm buildings painted the same lavender-mink grey as the sky at dusk, about 2km west of Siracusa. The rooms have resinated cement ﬂoors, and spacious bathrooms, with shower-heads the size of soup plates. The grounds are ample, with a good-sized pool, and there is a superb restaurant. A series of little beaches at nearby Isola and boat excursions along the River Ciane make this an ideal choice for anyone who wants to alternate days of sightseeing with lazy days by the beach or pool. In summer there is a ferry direct from the village of Isola across the bay to Ortigia. 5

Giuggiulena Via Pitagora da Reggio 35, Siracusa T0931.468.142, Wwww .giuggiulena.it. Belonging to the same owners as Palazzo del Sale, Giuggiulena is a chic, but friendly and relaxed B&B in a clifftop villa, along the eastern seafront of Siracusa, and ideal for families. The main living/eating area has ﬂoor-to-ceiling windows, and is ﬂooded with light, with a glass cube suspended above the ocean, and a bookcase stuffed with a tempting selection of English paperbacks. All six rooms have balconies overlooking the sea, and you can swim off rocks or forage in rock pools (the hotel has a supply of chairs, mats and beach shoes), yet Ortigia is just a 15-minute walk away. Breakfasts are abundant and delicious, and eaten on a balcony overhanging the sea. 3 Gutowski Lungomare Vittorini 26 T0931.465.861, Wwww.guthotel.it. Chic simplicity and intelligent design make this hotel overlooking the sea on the eastern edge of Ortigia a good restful choice in the centro storico. It’s worth booking in advance to secure one of the rooms with private terrace. Great breakfasts, with freshly squeezed orange juice and, in summer, home-made almond granita. There is also a little wine bar, and private dinners can be arranged for four or more guests.3 Lol Hostel Via Francesco Crispi 92, Siracusa T0931.465.088, W www.lolhostel.com. Stylish modern hostel with air-conditioned en-suite four-bed dorms (€22 per person), plus private singles and doubles. There is 24-hour reception, internet access and the cheapest bike rental in town. It also has a kitchen for guest use. 2 Palazzo del Sale Via Santa Teresa 25, Siracusa T0931.69.558, Wwww.palazzo delsale.it. Stylish, relaxed bed and breakfast in a nineteeneth-century salt-merchant’s home and warehouse on a quiet street behind Piazza del Duomo. Six spacious rooms with wooden ﬂoors, architect-designed beds, and intriguing touches such as mirrors framed with driftwood, and lamps with palm-bark shades. Breakfasts are superb, and service is unfussy and friendly. There is free wi-ﬁ – though the hefty stone walls mean that the signal can be weak in some rooms – and a PC for guests’ use. 3

Ortigia

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A ﬁst of land with the thumb downturned, ORTIGIA stuffs more than 2700 years of history into a space barely 1km long and 0.5km across. The island was connected to the mainland at different times by causeway or bridge: today you approach over the wide Ponte Nuovo to Piazza Pancali, where the sandstone remnants of the Tempio di Apollo sit in a little green park surrounded by railings. Erected around 570 BC in the colony’s early years, it was the ﬁrst grand Doric

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temple to be built in Sicily, though there’s not much left: a few column stumps, part of the inner sanctuary wall and the stereobate. Follow Via Savoia towards the water and you come to the main harbour, Porto Grande. Set back from the water, a curlicued ﬁfteenth-century limestone gateway, the Porta Marina, provides one entrance into the webbed streets of the old town. The walk uphill ends on a terrace looking over the harbour, from where you slip down to a piazza encircling the Fonte Aretusa. The freshwater spring – now neither fresh nor a spring – fuelled an attractive Greek myth: the nymph Arethusa, chased by the river god Alpheus, was changed into a spring by the goddess Artemis and, jumping into the sea off the Peloponnese, reappeared as a fountain in Siracusa. Actually, there are natural freshwater springs all over Ortigia, but the landscaped, papyrus-covered fountain – complete with ﬁsh and ducks – is undeniably pretty. Admiral Nelson took on water supplies here before the Battle of the Nile. The old town’s roads lead on, down the “thumb” of Ortigia, as far as the Castello Maniace on the island’s southern tip. Built by Frederick II in 1239, the solid square keep is now a barracks and off-limits. Back on the main chunk of Ortigia, the Museo Regionale d’Arte Medioevale e Moderna on Via Capodieci (Tues–Sat 9am–7pm, Sun 9am–1pm; €8) is housed in an austere thirteenthcentury palazzo. Inside is a marvellous collection of gilded Byzantine and Gothic altarpieces, though the highlight is an exquisite, ﬁfteenth-century Annunciation by Antonello da Messina, brought back to life by a deft restoration, and occupying a room on its own on the upper ﬂoor. Ortigia’s most impressive architecture is Baroque, best displayed in the splendid Piazza del Duomo, Sicily’s greatest square. A theatrical, elongated space, it is ﬂanked by magniﬁcent buildings, including the seventeenth-century Municipio with the remains of an early Ionic temple in its basement. This was abandoned in the ﬁfth century BC, when work began on the Tempio di Atena, possibly the most extravagant temple of its time, with doors of ivory and gold, walls painted with war scenes and portraits of tyrants, and its roof crowned with a statue of Athena bearing a golden shield designed to catch the sun and serve as a beacon for sailors. The ivory, paintings and gold have long gone, yet much of the rest survives, preserved within the Duomo (daily 8am–noon & 4–8pm; free), which incorporated the temple in its structure. Twelve of the temple’s ﬂuted columns and their architrave are embedded in the Duomo’s battlemented Norman wall, while inside, the nave was formed by hacking eight arches in the cella walls. Along the north aisle, columns distorted by the 1693 earthquake show how close the entire structure came to toppling then. Indeed, the Norman facade was completely destroyed, and replaced with the rhythmic Baroque that dominates the piazza today. At the far end of the square, behind the barley-sugar Baroque facade of Santa Lucia alla Badia (Tues–Sun 11am–2pm & 3–7pm; free) is one of Caravaggio’s most ground-breaking masterpieces, the bleak Burial of St Lucy, an astonishingly pared down, almost monochromatic work in which all the action is limited to the bottom third of the canvas.

Achradina Buses run from Largo XXV Luglio over Ponte Nuovo and into ACHRADINA, the commercial centre of ancient Syracuse. The Foro Siracusano was the site It’s worth buying a combined ticket (valid two days) if you’re planning to see Siracusa’s major sights: a ticket for the Parco Archeologico and the Museo Archeologico costs €9, while entrance to each individual site is €8.

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Swimming in the city In summer, as a break from sightseeing, check out Ortigia’s two seasonal solariums at Piazza del Mare and Largo della Gancia (reached by ﬂights of metal steps from the Lungomare di Levante), where you can swim and sunbathe on rocks and wooden decks. Largo della Gancia is particularly pleasant, as a local bar will bring you granitas and sandwiches. Alternatively, there’s a small (if not always very clean) paying beach with sunloungers and umbrellas at the Lido Marea Punta Est, below the Talete car park. Across on the mainland, the lido-bar Zen, on Via Dionosio Grande, in the upcoming area known as Borgata, is the in-place to swim by day or hang out at night. Between mid-June and September there’s also usually a small shuttle ferry from Ortigia to the beaches of Isola, on the far side of the bay: check with the tourist ofﬁce if it is running or not.

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of the agora, the marketplace and public square, and there are a few remains still to be seen – though the dominant feature is the Fascist-era war memorial in its garden. Behind the train station, off Via Elorina, is the Ginnasio Romano, not a gymnasium at all, but a small ﬁrst-century-AD Roman theatre – partly sunken under moss-covered water – and a few pieces of a temple and altar.

Tyche TYCHE, north of the train station, and home to the Museo Archeologico, is connected to Ortigia by buses #1, #3 and #12. Get off at Viale Teocrito and follow signs east for the archeological museum and west for Neapolis. The well-organized Museo Archeologico (Tues–Sat 9am–7pm, Sun 9am–2pm; last entry 1hr before closing; €8 or combined ticket with Parco Archeologico €9) starts with geological and prehistoric ﬁnds, then moves through rooms devoted to the colonies of Naxos, Lentini, Zancle and Megara Hyblaea, and to the main body of the collection: an immensely detailed catalogue of life in ancient Syracuse. The most famous exhibit is a headless Venus arising from the sea, the clear white marble almost palpably dripping. Look out, too, for the section dealing with the temples of Syracuse; fragments from each (like the seven lion-gargoyles from the Tempio di Atena) are displayed alongside model and video reconstructions. Tyche is riddled with catacombs, since the Romans forbade burial within the walls of a city. All are now inaccessible apart from those beneath the Basilica di San Giovanni, a stone’s throw from the archeological museum off Viale Teocrito (daily: summer 9.30am–1.30pm & 2.30–5.30pm, winter 9.30am–12.30pm & 2.30–4.30pm; tour of catacombs €6), built over the burial site of Roman martyr St Marcian. The presence of the saint made this a hugely popular burial place, and there are thousands of niches hollowed into the walls to contain the remains of Roman Syracuse’s Christians. Opposite the museum, across Viale Teocrito, the monolithic Santuario della Madonna delle Lacrime (daily 7am–12.30pm & 4–7pm; free) is the newest and least harmonious addition to the city’s skyline. Completed in 1994 to house a statue of the Madonna that allegedly wept for ﬁve days in 1953, it was designed to resemble a giant teardrop.

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To the west of Tyche, NEAPOLIS (daily 9am to 1hr before sunset; €8, or €9 with Parco Archeologico) is an extensive area that’s worth at least half a day, so bring water and a picnic (though you’ll need to eat fairly discreetly). The Ara di Ierone II,

For terriﬁc views over the city head a few kilometres west of Siracusa to the military and defensive works begun under Dionysius the Elder to defend the port from land attack. They basically consisted of a great wall, which defended the ridge of Epipolae (the city’s western limit), and the massive Castello Eurialo (summer daily 9am–7pm; winter daily 9am until 1hr before sunset; €4) – the most important surviving Greek fortiﬁcation in the Mediterranean. There are three defensive trenches, the innermost leading off into a system of tunnels and passages. Climb up to the castle proper for hearty views down to the oil reﬁneries and tankers of the coast north of the city, and over Siracusa itself. Bars and pizzerias share the view, and make this a great place for an evening out. Bus #25 makes the ﬁfteen-minute ride from the Corso Gelone, outside the archeological park, to the village of Belvedere; the site is just before the village, on the right. To come back, take bus #26.

| Siracusa

Castello Eurialo

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an enormous third-century-BC altar on a solid white plinth, is the ﬁrst thing you see, across the way from which is the entrance to the theatre and quarries. The Teatro Greco is prettily sited, cut out of the rock and looking down into trees below. It’s much bigger than the one at Taormina, capable of holding around ﬁfteen thousand people. Around the top of the middle gangway is a set of carved names which marked the various seat blocks occupied by the royal family. Greek dramas are still played here in May and June. Walk back through the theatre and another path leads down into a leafy quarry, the Latomia del Paradiso, best known for an unusually shaped cavern that Dionysius is supposed to have used as a prison. This, the Orecchio di Dionigi (or “Ear of Dionysius”), is a high, S-shaped cave 65m long: Caravaggio, a visitor in 1586, coined the name after the shape of the entrance, but the acoustic properties are such that it’s thought that Dionysius may have used it to eavesdrop on his prisoners from above. The ticket for the theatre and Latomia del Paradiso also gives access to the elliptical Anﬁteatro Romano. A late building, dating from the third century AD, it’s a substantial relic with the tunnels for animals and gladiators clearly visible. Again, some of the seats are inscribed with the owners’ names.

Eating, drinking and nightlife Many of Siracusa’s restaurants are overpriced, but there are still a few good-value places, and there’s no shortage of good bars and cafés. In the daytime, the Gran Caffè del Duomo, right in front of the cathedral, is the place to sit and watch life pass by – its prices are so reasonable that even street-sweepers and dustmen stop by for a coffee on their morning rounds. Bianco, at the bottom of Piazza del Duomo and in the gardens of the Ginnasio Romano in the new town, is Siracusa’s ﬁnest purveyor of ice cream (try ricotta with a dusting of cinnamon) while in the evening, Ortigia’s tiny Piazzetta San Rocco, and the streets around it, are the focus of a miniscule but noisy night scene. For a quieter aperitivo with sunset, head to Lungolanotte, on the traffic-free Lungomare Alfea, just below Largo Aretusa. Al Mazari Via G. Torres 7 T0931.483.690. Sophisticated, yet cosy restaurant, run by a family from Mazara del Vallo – the place to come for a romantic meal for two, or on your own, if you feel you need a treat. Carefully sourced ingredients, and dishes such as couscous, that are typical of western Sicily, and moderate prices. Sometimes closes on Sunday, so a good idea to call ahead.

Don Camillo Via Maestranza 96 T 0931.67.133. Siracusa’s ﬁnest ﬁsh restaurant, with a showy client list including Giorgio Armani, Steve Martin, Bono and Gérard Depardieu. Closed in July. Il Blu Via Nizza 50 T0931.445.052. Open 24 hours in August, serving granitas and sandwiches to the sunsoaking folk down at the nearby solarium, plus lunches in the shade of their terrace. The

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lunch menu at €10 is a great deal, and includes pasta, salad, beer, water and a coffee. But Il Blu is also a serious restaurant, buying ﬁsh daily from a ﬁsherman in Portopalo, to create reﬁned dishes, including two ﬁsh primi and two secondi every evening, such as tuna in a sesame crust stuffed with ricotta (€15). There’s also sushi and sashimi. La Foglia Via Capodieci 29 T 0931.66.233. Intimate Bohemian chic, with Venetian chandeliers, classical music, and tables dressed with rich brocades and antique tablecloths. The sculptor-owner is vegetarian, and local legumes and vegetables feature prominently, though the menu also includes ﬁsh and meat. Try mussels grilled inside lemon leaves, and, if they have it, the girella (handmade pasta) ﬁlled with wild greens. Expect to spend around €40 for a full meal excluding wine. Locanda Mastrarua Via Vittorio Veneto 11 T 0931.62.084. Simple contemporary elegance, and a cuisine that focusses on the freshest seasonal vegetables and ﬁsh, as well as tasty meat from the Nebrodi mountains. The signature dish is rua (€8.50), a generous antipasto platter of crunchy, deep-fried breadcrumbed vegetables, including fennel, sage leaves, mushrooms, zucchini and, in season, mazzoluto (think wild

asparagus-meets-onion greens). Fish dishes vary according to the market, but might include a ﬁllet of white ﬁsh baked in a crust of zucchini and potato. Desserts are light and exceptional – try the ricotta mousse with dark chocolate sauce and a dusting of crushed pistachio. From €30 per head, excluding wine. Closed Wed. Seby Via Mirabello 21. An exceptional tavola calda that is fast becoming an Ortigia institution. Fabulous selection of grilled vegetables, oven-baked pasta, ﬁsh and meat dishes, and home-made cakes at rock-bottom prices. By day it is self-service, and you eat on trays at formica tables with plastic knives and forks. In the evening, from May to September, they get out the tablecloths, crockery and cutlery, and operate as a trattoria – at prices that are still hard to beat. Sicilia in Tavola Via Cavour 28 T392.461.088. Cosy, bustling place that serves hearty dishes of handmade pasta along with simple ﬁsh antipasti (octapus salad, marinated anchovies, smoked tuna or swordﬁsh) and a dessert of the day. You could try spaghetti with clams, prawns and crushed pistacchio (€12) or ravioli with sea urchin (€12), or pay half that by opting for a simpler dish. Wines kick off at €10 a bottle, but local plonk is just €8 a litre.

The southern coast and the interior The southern coast and hinterland mark a welcome break from the volcanic ﬁxation of the blacker lands to the north: here the towns are largely spacious and bright, strung across a gentler, unscarred landscape that rolls down to endless long sandy beaches and the sea. Sicily’s southeastern bulge was devastated by a calamitous seventeenth-century earthquake and the inland rebuilding, over the next century, was almost entirely Baroque in concept and execution. Noto, closest to Siracusa, is the undisputed gem, but there are Baroque treasures aplenty both at Módica and Ragusa. The coast, too, has some jewels: 10km south of Noto is the magical Riserva Naturale di Vendicari, and though certain stretches of the coast are marred by industrial development and pollution, there are some magniﬁcent sands further west. Further west still, is Agrigento, sitting on a rise overlooking the sea above its famed series of Greek temples. Slow cross-country trains and limited-exit motorways do little to encourage stopping in the island’s interior, but it’s only here that you really begin to get off the tourist trail. Much of the land is burned dry during the long summer months,

sometimes a dreary picture, but in compensation the region boasts some of Sicily’s most curious towns. Enna is the obvious target, as central as you can get, the blustery mountain town a pace apart from the dry hills below. There are easy trips to be made from here, north into the hills and south to Piazza Armerina and the fabulous Roman mosaics.

Riserva Naturale di Vendicari and the coast

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| The Baroque towns

A line of small-town resorts stretches from Siracusa to Vittoria, and in between there are several sweeps of pristine sands: most notably at the Riserva Naturale di Vendicari, 10km south of Noto (daily: summer 7am–8pm; winter 7am–6.30pm; parking €2.50, campers €12; free entry), a lovely coastal nature reserve. Paths lead to unspoilt beaches of white-gold sand and salt lakes, that, between October and March, attract ﬂamingoes, herons, cranes, black storks and pelicans. Until recently turtles would nest on the beaches, but local appetite for turtle soup led to their disappearance. There are now projects under way to encourage the turtles back to Vendicari. For accommodation and food, try the Agriturismo Calamosche (T 347.858.7319; April–Oct; 1 ) inside the reserve at the Cala Mosche entrance: look out for a hand-painted sign off the main road. They have seven simple rooms and produce their own vegetables, almonds, lemons and oil, which are served along with local hams and cheeses, ﬁsh and game in the reasonably priced restaurant. To the southeast of the reserve is Capo Passero, where the Ionian Sea meets the Sicilian Channel. If you have your own transport, follow signs from the little resort of Portopalo di Capo Passero along tiny roads between huge polytunnels of tomatoes, to the Isola dei Correnti. If the sea is not too wild, you can wade out to this little island. Continuing west, there is a stunning two-kilometre sweep of sand at SAMPIERI, a small ﬁshing village and resort. If you want to stay you couldn’t do better than A Poggio Bellavista (T 0932.939.068, W www.poggio -bellavista.com; 2 ), a welcoming and comfortable B&B, with ﬁve pretty rooms, perched on the hillside a kilometre outside town. The English-speaking owners go out of their way to make guests feel at home. There are good beaches further west as well, at Marina di Ragusa and, most notably, Kamarina, where there are evocative, if incomprehensible, relics of a Hellenistic-Roman city. Beyond here, the coast gets too close to Sicily’s ugliest and most polluted town, the industrial port of Gela, for comfort.

The Baroque towns The earthquake of 1693, which destroyed utterly the towns and villages of southeastern Sicily, had one positive and lasting effect. Where there were ruins, a new generation of conﬁdent architects raised new planned towns in an opulent Baroque style. All were harmonious creations, and in 2001 eight of them were selected by UNESCO as World Heritage Sites. Funding has poured into the area, and in recent years there has been an explosion of new hotels and B&Bs. Noto, recently restored to perfection, is the most eagerly promoted by the tourist board, while Ragusa Ibla, a Baroque town built on a medieval plan, has become a destination for the stylish international set, with a handful of bijou B&Bs and a couple of Michelin-starred restaurants. Liveliest of the lot is Módica, a vibrant town famous for the production of chocolate.

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Noto

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NOTO, half an hour by train or bus from Siracusa, is easily the most harmonious town of those rebuilt after the earthquake, and during the mid-nineteenth century, it replaced Siracusa as provincial capital. Planned and laid out by Giovanni Battista Landolina and adorned by Gagliardi, there’s not a town to touch Noto for uniform excellence in design and execution. Each year more monuments are restored, regaining their original apricot- and honey-hued limestone facades, and each year more tour groups visit. The pedestrianized main Corso is lined with some of Sicily’s most captivating buildings, from the ﬂat-fronted church of San Francesco, on the right, along as far as Piazza XVI Maggio and the graceful, curving church of San Domenico. And Piazza Municipio is one of Sicily’s ﬁnest piazzas, with its perfectly proportioned, tree-planted expanses. The Duomo, a striking example of Baroque at its most muscular, has reopened following the collapse of its dome in 1996. Its refreshingly unadorned interior is a striking example of how well the best of Baroque architects knew how to articulate space. Opposite, the Municipio (or Palazzo Ducezio) is ﬂanked by its own green spaces, the arcaded building presenting a lovely, simple facade of columns and long stone balconies. Head up the steep Via Corrado Nicolaci, an eighteenth-century street that contains the extraordinary Palazzo Villadorata at no. 18, its six balconies supported by a panoply of griffins, galloping horses and fat-cheeked cherubs. Practicalities

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If you want to stay in Noto you’ll need to book ahead in high season. The tourist office in Piazza XVI Maggio (winter Mon–Sat and most Sundays 9am–1.30pm & 3–7pm; summer: daily 9am–1pm & 4–8pm; T 0931.573.779, W www.comune .noto.sr.it) has details of numerous rented rooms and B&B places, and there’s a youth hostel, Il Castello, Via Fratelli Bandiera 2 (T 392.415.7899, W www.noto barocca.com/ostello), housed in a converted palazzo in the upper part of town: beds in dorms €15, in family rooms €18.50. Alternatively, Liberty Rooms, Via Francesco Ferruccio on the corner of Corso Vittorio Emanuele (T 338.230.4042, W www .villacatera.com; 2 –3 ), is an exceptionally beautiful Art Nouveau palazzetto on Noto’s central Corso. It has gracious rooms furnished with antiques, with a kitchen and a huge roof terrace to eat on. A good choice for children is the familyrun B&B Macrina, Vico Grillo (T 0931.837.202, W www.b-bmacrina.com; 2 ), with a huge walled garden and a couple of swings. Each of the three rooms is big and airy and has its own terrace, and there’s also use of a barbecue. Finally, Villa Fiorita, Via Principe Umberto 47 (T 0931.571.576 or 320.113.3813, W www .casaﬁorita.it; 2 ), has two comfortable mini-apartments (with kitchen), another bedroom (without kitchen) and a two-room apartment, all in a pretty eighteenthcentury house in neighbourly Noto Alto. You can eat at the bustling, straightforward Trattoria Giglio, just to the side of the town hall at Piazza Municipio 8–10 (T 0931.838.640) and at the small Trattoria del Carmine, Via Ducezio 9 (T 0931.838.705), which serves cucina casalinga at low prices. Emily’s Wine, Corso Vittorio Emanuele 70 (T 0931.838.028), is a nice place for a glass of good wine and tasty snacks such as crostini with ricotta and honey, caponata, local cheeses and hams. They also have a range of lentil and pulse soups to eat in or take away. Don’t leave town without sampling the ice creams and granitas at Noto’s two rival ice-cream emporia: Caffè Sicilia, near the Duomo at Corso Vittorio Emanuele 125 (closed Mon), and Costanzo, Via Spaventa 7, behind the Palazzo Ducezio (closed Wed): try unique ﬂavours, such as jasmine, rose and wild strawberry, or innovations like lemon and saffron, and even basil.

Módica

Módica has a good range of accommodation, including Casa Talia, Via Exaudinos 1 (T 0932.752.075, W www.casatalia.it; 4 ), a cluster of restored houses in what was once the Jewish ghetto of Módica. Just ﬁve minutes’ walk from the main Corso, but in a quiet part of town with a peaceful garden planted with fruit trees, it has stylish and practical rooms, designed by the architect owners. Breakfasts are excellent (freshly squeezed juices, home-made cakes, jams and breads). The tranquil, reﬁned B&B L’Orangerie, Vico de Naro 5 (T 0932.754.703, W www.lorangerie .it; 4 ), has three huge suites and four spacious rooms in a palazzo with frescoed ceilings and private ﬂower-ﬁlled terraces, while I Tetti di Siciliando, Via Cannata 24 (T 0932.942.843, W www.siciliando.it; 1 ), is a simple, friendly and unpretentious budget hotel with basic rooms and helpful owners. Outside town, Fattoria Villa Rosa Casale dei Mori, Corso da Falconara, Noto Marina (T 0931.812.909, W www .alcasaledeimori.com; 3 ), is a comfortable agriturismo with 21 rooms (two with cooking facilities) housed in an enchanting eighteenth-century farmhouse with beautiful grounds. There is a swimming pool suitable for children, as well as a playground and rabbits, chickens and goats to visit, plus excellent home-cooking in the restaurant: half-board obligatory in July and August. For somewhere to eat in Módica, Osteria dei Sapori Perduti, Corso Umberto I 228–30, serves reasonably priced, traditional dishes with a strong emphasis on beans and pulses; the menu is in Sicilian, but translations are available. For traditional meat dishes, such as ravioli stuffed with ricotta in a hearty sausage-and-pork sauce, try the delightfully old-fashioned and very reasonably priced Taverna Nicastro, Via S. Antonino 30 (T 0932.945.884; evenings only, closed Sun and Mon), with tables outside on a ﬂight of steps in the upper part of the old town. It is signposted from outside San Giorgio, but you will probably still have to stop several people to ask the way before you ﬁnd it.

Ragusa RAGUSA is a town with two identities, literally split in two by the earthquake: the old town of Ragusa Ibla, on a jut of land above its valley, was ﬂattened, and

| Módica • Ragusa

Practicalities

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A dynamic little town, with solid left-wing allegiances, MÓDICA was the provincial capital until Mussolini shifted base to the more conservative Ragusa. Linked by both train and bus with Siracusa and Ragusa, this Baroque town is well worth a visit, with some great places to stay and eat, and to taste the local speciality, chocolate. Arriving by car you have to negotiate your way through the confusing and badly signposted streets of the modern town, known as Sordo, before winding down to the old town, cascading down the sides of a narrow gorge. A powerful medieval base of the Chiaramonte, Baroque Módica is watched over by the magniﬁcent eighteenth-century facade of San Giorgio, at the head of a vast ﬂight of steps. It’s thought that Gagliardi was responsible for this: the elliptical facade is topped by a belfry, the church approached by a symmetrical double staircase which switchbacks up across the upper roads of the town. Today, Módica is a vibrant town, famous for the production of chocolate. It is powerful, gritty stuff, made as the Mayans did, a technique introduced to Sicily by the Spanish, without cocoa butter, and without heat, so that the sugar doesn’t melt, and the texture remains crunchy. Traditional ﬂavours are vanilla and cinnamon, innovations include sea salt and chilli. Sample it at Caffè dell’Arte, Corso Umberto I, 114, or Bonajuto, in a little alleyway across the street.

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within a few years a new town, Ragusa Superiore, was built on a grand, planned grid, on a higher ridge to the west. Meanwhile, Ibla was rebuilt – in Baroque style – along its old medieval street-plan. In the second half of the last century people began to move out of Ibla for the modern comforts of life in the apartment buildings rapidly sprouting up in Ragusa Superiore. All commercial and social activity shifted here, and until ten years ago Ibla was all but abandoned. Since then, thanks to generous European and government funding, Ibla has been painstakingly restored, and scores of B&Bs and stylish second homes now occupy its lovely limestone Baroque houses and palaces. However, with a population of just 2000 (out of a total of 70,000), and little in the way of ordinary shops or bars, Ibla is very much a museum town, virtually pedestrianized and dedicated only to tourism. Ragusa Superiore, on the other hand, is a busy and likeable provincial capital, mostly modern, but with a good slice of Baroque on the edge of the cleft between the two cities, where you may well want to spend a little time.

| Ragusa

Arrival, information and accommodation

The train station is in Ragusa Superiore: from here, a left turn takes you along the main road and over the exposed Ponte Nuovo, one of three bridges spanning a huge gully in the ridge. The bus terminus is at Via Zama, from where buses #11 and #33, among others, will take you to Ibla. The main tourist office is in Ragusa Superiore on Piazza San Giovanni, corner with Corso Italia (T 0932.684.780, W www.comune.ragusa.gov.it; Mon–Fri 8.30am–7.30pm, Sat 8.30am–2.30pm). There is also an information point in Ibla at Piazza della Repubblica, but opening hours are erratic. Hotels and B&Bs

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Caelum Hyblae Salita Specula 11, Ragusa Ibla T 0932.689.048 or 329.072.6015, W www .bbcaelumhyblae.it. Tucked behind the apse of the Duomo, this reﬁned B&B has ﬁve cool, minimalist rooms with linen sheets, magniﬁcent views, and terraces on its roof and on the ground ﬂoor. The owner organizes occasional chamber music evenings. 3 Eremo della Giubiliana 7.5km out of Ragusa, along the road to Marina di Ragusa T0932.669.119, W www.eremodellagiubiliana .com. An upmarket agriturismo (with its own 700m private airstrip no less) housed in the restored buildings of a feudal estate dating back to the twelfth century. The grounds are gorgeous, and you can dine on their own organically grown food. Discounts often available online. 7 Le Chicce Salita Specula 7, Ragusa Ibla T 0932.239.180 or 330.849.862, W www .bblechicche.com. Wonderful roof terrace and ﬁve rooms furnished with a stylish mix of antique and contemporary furniture, including hand-painted wardrobes, Philippe Starck chairs, and mirrors that reproduce the shapes of the columns in the Duomo. The friendly owner is an English teacher, so communication is no problem! If you’d rather stay

by the sea, the same family have a B&B with an apartment and three rooms in a villa with garden at Marina di Ragusa. 2 Locanda Don Seraﬁno Via XI Febbraio 15, Ragusa Ibla T0932.22.0065, W www .locandadonseraﬁno.it. A small, excusive hotel, beautifully set within the hefty stone walls of a nineteenth-century mansion. Two of the rooms, occupying the former stables, are carved straight into the bare rock, and one of them (room 8) has a bathroom inside a cave. Internet points in all rooms. 4 L’Orto sul Tetto Via Ten. Distefano 56, Ragusa Ibla T0932.247.785 or 338.478.0484, W www .lortosultetto.it. A warm, friendly place a short walk from the Duomo with three serene bedrooms, run by a mother and son. Breakfasts are served on a roof terrace full of plants and include pastries fresh from the bakery. 2 Villa Lauro Via Ecce Homo, Ragusa Superiore T 0932.655.177, W www.villadellauro.it. Minimalist style within the exposed limestone walls of an eighteenth-century palazzo in the historic part of Ragusa Superiore. Excellent choice in summer, when you can while away afternoons in the serene, stylish garden with swimming pool. Discounts online. 4

Ragusa Superiore

Ragusa Superiore is essentially a gridded Baroque town, slipping off to right and left on either side of the steeply sloping Corso Italia. To the right, down the Corso on a wide terrace above Piazza San Giovanni, stands the Duomo, conceived on a grand, symmetrical scale. Finished in 1774, its tapered columns and ﬁne doorways are a fairly sombre background to the vigorous small-town atmosphere around. Back towards the train station, underneath the Ponte Nuovo, there’s an important Museo Archeologico (daily 9am–1.30pm & 4–7.30pm; €4) dealing mainly with ﬁnds from the archeological site of Kamarina (sixth century BC) on the coast to the southwest. Rasuga Ibla S I C I LY

| Ragusa

It’s Ragusa Ibla, the original lower town, where most people head, its weatherbeaten roofs straddling the outcrop of rock about twenty minutes’ walk away. The main attraction, situated in the gleaming central core of the town, is Ibla’s Duomo, San Giorgio. Stridently placed at the top of Piazza Duomo, it’s a masterpiece of Sicilian Baroque, built by Rosario Gagliardi and ﬁnished in 1784. The glorious three-tiered facade, sets of triple columns climbing up the wedding-cake exterior to a balconied belfry, is an imaginative work, though typically not much enhanced by venturing inside. As with Gagliardi’s other important church in Módica (see p.925), all the beauty is in the immediacy of the powerful exterior. The whole town – often deathly quiet – is ripe for aimless wandering. Gagliardi gets another credit for the elegant rounded facade of the church of San Giuseppe in Piazza Pola, a few steps below the Duomo, while Corso XXV Aprile continues down past abandoned palazzi to the Giardino Ibleo (daily 8am–8pm), gardens occupying the very edge of the spur on which the town is built. If you can’t face the walk back to the upper town, the bus navetta from Largo Kamerina plies between the upper and lower towns every thirty minutes or so. Eating and drinking

Ibla has two rival Michelin-starred restaurants, each of them well worth splashing out on. However, if you are on a budget, a good alternative is a picnic; wander down narrow, curving Corso 25 Aprile, lined with fancy shops selling local produce. Try Salumeria Barocco, which has a superb range of carefully sourced local cheeses. There is also a bakery at no. 84 where you can get bread, pizza and impanata (calzone-like pastries ﬁlled with vegetables, ham or cheese). Another good place for a simple snack is the Forno San Paolo, opposite the car park at the entrance to Ibla. It bakes traditional scacce, scorched bread-dough pastries ﬁlled with aubergine, spinach, cauliﬂower or the like. Pasticceria di Pasquale Corso Vittorio Veneto 104, Ragusa Superiore. The best ice cream and pastries in either town. Just downhill from the Duomo of San Giovanni. Ristorante Duomo Via Capitano Bocchieri 31, Ragusa Ibla T 0932.651.265. Meticulously sourced Sicilian ingredients reworked to stunning effect, in what is arguably Sicily’s greatest restaurant. Put yourself in the hands of chef Ciccio Sultano, and opt for the tasting menu (€135) with wines, selected from the copious cellar, to match each course. Expensive but worth it. Closed Sun & Mon lunch in summer, Sun eve & Mon in winter. Ristorante Locanda Don Serafino Via Orfanotroﬁo 39, Ragusa Ibla T 0932.248.778. In

a vaulted medieval wine-cellar, lit by candles, this is a place to feast on artisan cheeses, Ragusana beef and lamb, Nebrodi mountain pork and fresh ﬁsh. Try the ﬁllet beef with tobacco and salt-baked potatoes and don’t miss the selection of puddings made with local carob. Very expensive, though slightly cheaper than Duomo. Closed Tues. Trattoria la Bettola Largo Kamarina, Ibla T0932.653.377. A rarity in Ibla: a simple, inexpensive family-run trattoria with red-and-white tablecloths that has been around for 30 years, serving local dishes such as maiale ubriaco, pork braised in wine and wild herbs. Closed Mon.

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Agrigento

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Though handsome, well-sited and awash with medieval atmosphere, AGRIGENTO is rarely visited for the town itself. The interest instead focuses on the substantial remains of Pindar’s “most beautiful city of mortals”, a couple of kilometres below. Here, strung out along a ridge facing the sea, is a series of Doric temples – the most captivating of Sicilian Greek remains and a grouping unique outside Greece. In 581 BC colonists from nearby Gela and from Rhodes founded the city of Akragas between the rivers of Hypsas and Akragas. They surrounded it with a mighty wall, formed in part by a higher ridge on which stood the acropolis (today occupied by the modern town). The southern limit of the ancient city was a second, lower ridge and it was here, in the “Valle dei Templi”, that the city architects erected their sacred buildings during the ﬁfth century BC.

| Agrigento

Valley of the Temples A road winds down from the modern city to the Valle dei Templi, with buses stopping at a car park between the two separate sections of archeological remains (the eastern and western zones), and the museum (see opposite). Entrance to both the eastern and western temple sites costs €10 including the museum ( July & Aug Mon–Fri 8am–10pm, Sat & Sun 8am–midnight; Sept–June daily 8am–7pm). Guided tours are offered in English – ask at the information kiosk in the car park for details. The eastern zone

The eastern zone is unenclosed and is at its crowd-free best in early morning or late evening. A path climbs up to the oldest of Akragas’s temples, the Tempio di Ercole (Hercules). Probably begun in the last decades of the sixth century BC, nine of the original 38 columns have been re-erected, everything else is scattered around like the pieces of a jigsaw puzzle. Retrace your steps back to the path that leads to the glorious Tempio della Concordia, dated to around 430 BC: perfectly preserved and beautifully sited, with ﬁne views to the city and the sea, the tawny stone lends the structure warmth and strength. That it’s still so complete is explained by its conversion in the sixth century AD to a Christian church. Restored to its (more or less) original layout in the eighteenth century, it has kept its lines and slightly tapering columns, although it’s fenced off to keep the crowds at bay. The path continues, following the line of the ancient city walls, to the Tempio di Giunone ( Juno or Hera), an engaging half-ruin standing at the very edge of the ridge. The patches of red visible here and there on the masonry denote ﬁre damage, probably from the sack of Akragas by the Carthaginians in 406 BC. The western zone

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The western zone, back along the path and beyond the car park, is less impressive, a vast tangle of stone and fallen masonry from a variety of temples. Most notable is the mammoth construction that was the Tempio di Giove, or Temple of Olympian Zeus. The largest Doric temple ever known, it was never completed, left in ruins by the Carthaginians and further damaged by earthquakes. Still, the stereobate remains, while on the ground, face to the sky, lies an eight-metre-high telamone: a supporting column sculpted as a male ﬁgure, arms raised and bent to bear the temple’s weight. Other scattered remains litter the area, including the so-called Tempio dei Dioscuri (Castor and Pollux), rebuilt in 1832 and actually made up of unrelated pieces from the confused rubble on the ground.

Museo Nazionale Archeologico Via dei Templi leads back to the town from the car park via the excellent Museo Nazionale Archeologico (Tues–Sat 9am–1pm & 2–7pm, Mon & Sun 9am–1pm; €8). The extraordinarily rich collection is devoted to ﬁnds from the city and the surrounding area; the best displays are the cases of vases (sixth to third century BC) and a reassembled telamone stacked against one wall. Nip over the road on the way out for the Hellenistic-Roman quarter (daily 9am until 1hr before sunset; free), which contains lines of houses, inhabited intermittently until the ﬁfth century AD, many with mosaic designs still discernible.

Agrigento S I C I LY

| Agrigento

It would be a mistake not to scout round the town of Agrigento. Thoroughly medieval at its heart, its tiny stepped streets and ﬁne churches look down over the Valle dei Templi (dramatically ﬂoodlit at night) and beyond to the sea. The main street, Via Atenea, starts at the eastern edge of the old town, above the train station, the streets off to the right harbouring ramshackle palazzi and the church of Santa Maria dei Greci. It was built over a ﬁfth-century-BC Greek temple, whose ﬂattened columns are visible in the nave, while an underground tunnel reveals the stylobate and column stumps, all part of the church’s foundations. When you’re done with the ruins and the old town, you could always head out to the local beach resort of SAN LEONE, a pleasant, low-key place 6km away, served by half-hourly buses from outside the train station. Even better, drive or take a bus (run by Lumia T 0922.20.414) to REALMONTE, 15km to the west. A couple of kilometres from here, a bank of curving white cliffs sculpted by wind and waves into a wildly tilting natural staircase – the Scala dei Turchi – descend to the sea: from Realmonte, follow the signs to Scala dei Turchi, and leave your car in the car park, from where it’s a ten-minute walk. There’s a pleasant B&B, Scala dei Turchi in the piazza at Realmonte (T 0922.816.238, W www.scaladeiturchi.net; 2 ). Practicalities

Trains arrive at Agrigento Centrale station at the edge of the old town; don’t get out at Agrigento Bassa 3km north of town. Regional buses and city buses to the temples and the beach at San Leone use the terminal in Piazza Rosselli, near the post office. Buy city bus tickets (€1) from kiosks or tabacchi. The old town stretches west of the three main interlocking squares, piazzas Marconi, Aldo Moro and Vittorio Emanuele. Via Atenea is Agrigento’s principal artery, running west from Piazza Aldo Moro, off which runs Via Atenea with the tourist office at the far end at no. 272 (Mon–Fri 9.30am–1.30pm plus Tues & Thurs 3.30–7.30pm; T 0922.596.168). Finding accommodation in Agrigento shouldn’t be a problem, except perhaps in peak season. To ﬁnd a B&B on spec, wander along Via Atenea, though if you want to stay at the very special Camere a Sud, Via Ficani 6 off Via Atenea (T 349.638.4424, W www.camereasud.it; 2 ) book ahead; it’s quiet, comfortable and sunny, with white-walled rooms, vivid soft furnishings, paintings by Catanese artist Antonio Recca and a roof terrace where you can while away the hours. Another good option is B&B Portatenea, Via Atenea, on the corner with Via C. Battisti (T 349.093.7492, W www.portatenea.com; 1 –2 ) with colour-drenched rooms, a roof terrace and friendly owners. For more luxury, stay at the Villa Athena, Via dei Templi (T 0922.596.288, W www.hotelvillaathena.it; 5 –7 ) right in the archeological zone, its very existence a temple to Maﬁa power, and the building that made entrepreneur Daniele Kihlgren (see box, p.713) decide something had to be done about the tide of cement threatening to engulf the country. Naturally, once you are inside you can’t see it, and the views of the temples from the pool, restaurant and garden are

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legendary. You can camp 6km south at the coastal resort of San Leone, at Valle dei Templi Internazionale (T 0922.411.115, W www.campingvalledeitempli.com): bus #2 from outside the train station (every 30min until 9pm). As for eating, there’s the budget Atenea (T 0922.20.247), a friendly, family-run trattoria at Via Ficani 32, in a quiet courtyard just off the Via Atenea (no credit cards; closed Sun). In the same neighbourhood, at Via Giambertoni 2, the folksy Ambasciata di Sicilia (T 0922.20.526; closed Mon, but open Mon eve in Aug) is small but has a view-laden terrace and serves good antipasto rustico and fresh ﬁsh. The best ice creams in town (try the fresh ricotta, pistachio, or almond) are at Le Cuspidi, Piazza Cavour 19, and at San Leone near the Agrigento bus stop.

S I C I LY

Eraclea Minoa

| Eraclea Minoa • Enna and the interior

From Agrigento you’re well positioned for moving on into western Sicily, and frequent buses get you to Sciacca in around two and a half hours. If you can, though, ﬁrst drop in on the other important local Greek site, ERACLEA MINOA – originally named Minoa after the Cretan king Minos, who chased Daedalus from Crete to Sicily and founded a city where he landed. The Greeks settled here in the sixth century, later adding the tag Heraklea. A buffer between the two great cities at Akragas, 40km to the east, and Selinus, 60km west, Eraclea Minoa was dragged into endless border disputes, but in spite of this it ﬂourished. Most of the remains date from the fourth century BC, Eraclea Minoa’s most important period, three hundred years or so before the town declined. The site (daily 9am to 1hr before sunset; €4) is in a ﬁne location right on the coast, at the mouth of the River Platani. Apart from the good walls, once 6km long, which survive in interrupted sections, the main attraction is the sandstone theatre; some of the ﬁnds are held in a small on-site museum. While you’re here, you’ll be hard put to resist a trip down to the beach, one of the best on Sicily’s southern coast, backed by pine trees and chalky cliffs.

Practicalities You can get here between June and September by bus from Cattolica Eraclea, which has bus connections from Agrigento, but outside the summer months you’re going to have to take any bus running between Agrigento and Sciacca and ask the driver to let you off at the turning on the SS115: from here, you’ll have to walk the 3.5km to the site. At the foot of the road from the site, a couple of bar-restaurants with rooms sit right on the beach – Lido Garibaldi is a good option here, with rooms and apartments (T 0922.846.061 or 339.813.7907). Heading on, walk back to the SS115, where you should be able to ﬂag down any bus bound for Sciacca.

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From a bulging V-shaped ridge almost 1000m above sea level, ENNA lords it over the surrounding hills of central Sicily. The approach to this doughty mountain stronghold is formidable, the road climbing slowly out of the valley and looping across the solid crag to the summit and town. For obvious strategic reasons, Enna was a magnet for successive hostile armies, who in turn besieged

The bus terminal is on Viale Diaz in the new town – turn right out of the terminal, right again down Corso Sicilia and it’s around a ten-minute walk to Piazza Vittorio Emanuele. Enna’s train station is 5km below town – a local bus runs roughly hourly to the centre (less frequently on Sun), while a taxi will cost around €12. You can reach everywhere in Enna itself very easily on foot, or by local bus: tickets can be bought from tabacchi and are valid for one hour. You can pick up a good town map and accommodation details from the small tourist office in Piazza Colaianni (Mon–Fri 8am–2pm, plus Wed 2.45–6.15pm; T 0935.500.875), off Via Roma next to the Grande Albergo Sicilia. The best B&B in town is Bianko & Bianko, Via Longo 15 (T 331.329.4288 or 327.159.8426, E [email protected]; 1 ), with four spacious, light-ﬁlled rooms in stylish white. It’s handy for the old town, just to the right of the steps of San Cataldo church (bottom of Via Vittorio Emanuele). Nearby Proserpina, Piazza Scelfo 108, on the corner with Via Sant’Agata (T 333.299.1957, W www.bbenna .it; 1 ), has seven polished rooms in a tall townhouse. Out of town, the most original accommodation is the artistically inclined, nineteenth-century villa, La Casa del Poeta, Contrada Parasporino (T 329.627.4918, W www.lacasadelpoeta .it; 2 –3 ), about 1km from Lago di Pergusa, where the rooms are serene and minimalist, and the grounds include a swimming pool. For bargain meals, Grotta Azzurra, Via Colaianni 1 (T 0935.24.328; closed Sat in winter), can’t be beaten – a no-frills, basement trattoria with primi for €3 and secondi for €5 or €6. It’s at the very bottom of Via Roma, past Piazza Vittorio Emanuele and down an alley. Best pizzas are at Tiffany, Via Roma 467 (T 0935.501.368; closed Thurs; pizzas €4–8), near the Duomo, after which you can slip into Alkensia, on Via Roma (closed Mon), an old church next to the Museo Alessi that has been re-styled as a cultural centre and café, with Arab-style lounging outside on the cobbles at low tables. Enna’s market is held on Tuesday mornings in Piazza Europa, below the Torre di Federico II.

| Enna and the interior

Enna practicalities

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and fortiﬁed the town, each doing their damnedest to disprove Livy’s description of Enna as inexpugnabilis. Despite the destructive attention, most of Enna’s remains are medieval and in good shape, with the prize exhibit the thirteenth-century Castello di Lombardia (daily: summer 8am–8pm; winter 9am–5pm; free), dominating the easternmost spur of town. A mighty construction with its strong walls complete, it guards the steep slopes on either side of Enna, its six surviving towers (out of an original twenty) providing lookouts. From the tallest, the Torre Pisana, the magniﬁcent views take in Enna itself, some rugged countryside in all directions and, if you’re lucky, Mount Etna. In the centre of town virtually all the accredited sights lie stretched out along and around Via Roma, which descends from the castle. It’s a narrow street, broken by small piazzas – one of which fronts the hemmed-in Duomo (daily 9am–noon & 4–7pm; free), dating in part from 1307. The spacious sixteenth-century interior features huge supporting alabaster columns, the bases of which are covered with an amorphous writhing mass of carved ﬁgures. Via Roma slopes down to the rectangular Piazza Vittorio Emanuele, focal point of the evening passeggiata. Off here, there’s a long cliff-edge belvedere, while the bottom of the piazza is marked by the plain, high wall of the Chiesa di San Francesco, whose massive sixteenth-century tower previously formed part of the town’s system of watchtowers. This linked the castle with the Torre di Federico, which stands in isolation in its little park in the largely modern south of the town. An octagonal tower, 24m high, it’s a survivor of the alterations to the city made by Frederick of Aragon who added a (now hidden) underground passage linking it to the castello.

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Piazza Armerina and around To the south of Enna, less than an hour away by bus, PIAZZA ARMERINA lies amid densely planted hills; it’s a quiet, unassuming place mainly seventeenth and eighteenth century in appearance, with a skyline pierced by towers and houses huddled together under the joint protection of castle and cathedral. All in all, it’s a thoroughly pleasant place to idle around, though the real local draw is an imperial Roman villa that stands in rugged countryside at Casale, 5km southwest of Piazza Armerina. It was hidden under mud for seven hundred years, until excavations in the 1950s revealed a lavish villa, probably a hunting lodge and summer home, decorated with polychromatic mosaic ﬂoors that are unique in the Roman world for their quality and extent. S I C I LY

Practicalities

| Piazza Armerina and around

Buses drop you in Piazza Senatore Marescalchi, a large square on the main road in the lower, modern town, ﬁfteen minutes’ walk from the old centre. On the way up to the cathedral you’ll pass the tourist office, just up Via Cavour from Piazza Garibaldi, on the raised terrace on the left (Mon–Fri 9am–1pm & 3.30–7.30pm; T 0935.683.049, W www.piazza-armerina.it). There are lots of B&Bs, all well signposted, including B&B Marconi, Via Marconi 26 (T 0935.682.989, W www .bedmarconi.com; 1 ; no credit cards), with four pleasant rooms and its own bar-rosticceria, and the Ostello del Borgo, Largo San Giovanni 6 (T 0935.687.019, W www.ostellodelborgo.it), which has dorms (€17 per bed) and private rooms (1) in a refurbished fourteenth-century monastery. However, top choice in town is the fabulously quirky “art-hotel” opposite the cathedral on Piazza Duomo, the A Suite d’Autore (T 0935.688.553, W www.suitedautore.it; 3 ), whose fun-ﬁlled rooms mix contemporary design, stylish artefacts, retro objects, original art and photography. Eating options include Trattoria del Goloso, Via Garao 4, just off Piazza Garibaldi (T 0935.685.693; closed Wed in winter), which serves good-value regional dishes (€6–10). Nearby A Amici Miei, Largo Capodarso 5 (T 0935.683.541), is especially good for ﬁsh, from baked bream to sauteéd mussels (dishes €6–14), with excellent pizzas in the evening, which you can eat outside on a charming terrace.

Villa Romana del Casale

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There are ongoing restoration works at the VILLA ROMANA DEL CASALE (W www.villaromanadelcasale.it), so check the website, or ask at Piazza Armerina tourist office (see above), before setting out to see the mosaics. Opening hours and admission charges vary, depending on what parts can currently be visited, but there’s usually access to the site on a daily basis, though hours may be limited. From Piazza Armerina, a bus (May–Sept only) leaves Piazza Senatore Marescalchi for the Villa Romana on the hour between 9am and noon, and between 3pm and 6pm, with a stop at Piazza Generale Cascino; it’s a half-hour ride, and the return service is on the half-hour, starting at 9.30am. A taxi from Piazza Generale Cascino in Piazza Armerina costs around €10 one way. The villa dates from the early fourth century BC and was used right up until the twelfth century when a mudslide left it largely covered until the 1950s. The mosaics themselves are identiﬁable as fourth-century Roman-African school, which explains many of the more exotic scenes and animals portrayed; they also point to the villa having had an important owner, possibly Maximianus Herculeus, one of four co-emperors with Diocletian, who divided the Roman world up between them.

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| Trápani and the west

The main entrance leads into a wide courtyard with fountains, where the thermae (baths) group around an octagonal frigidarium and a central mosaic showing a lively marine scene. A walkway leads out of the baths and into the villa proper, to the massive central court or peristyle, whose surrounding corridors are decorated with animal-head mosaics. From here, a balcony looks down on one of the villa’s most interesting pictures, a boisterous circus scene showing a chariot race. Small rooms beyond, on either side of the peristyle, reveal only fragmentary geometric patterns, although one contains probably the villa’s most famous image, a two-tiered scene of ten realistically muscular Roman girls in “bikinis”, taking part in various gymnastic and athletic activities. Beyond the peristyle, a long, covered corridor contains the most extraordinary of the mosaics: the great hunting scene, which sets armed and shield-bearing hunters against a panoply of wild animals. Along the entire sixty-metre length of the mosaic are tigers, ostriches, elephants, even a rhino, being trapped, bundled up and down gangplanks and into cages, destined for the Games back in Rome. The square-hatted ﬁgure overseeing the operation is probably Maximianus himself: his personal area of responsibility in the imperial Tetrarchy was North Africa, where much of the scene is set. Other rooms beyond are nearly all on a grand scale. The triclinium, a dining room with three apses, features the labours of Hercules, and a path leads around the back to the private apartments, based around a large basilica. The best mosaics here are a children’s circus, where tiny chariots are drawn by colourful birds, and a children’s hunt, the kids chased and pecked by the hares and peacocks they’re supposed to snare.

Trápani and the west The west of Sicily is a land apart. Skirting around the coast from Trápani – the provincial capital – the cubic whitewashed houses, palm trees, active ﬁshing harbours and sunburned lowlands seem more akin to Africa than Europe, and historically, the west of the island has always looked south. The earliest of all Sicilian sites, the mountain haunt of Érice was dominated by Punic inﬂuence; the Carthaginians themselves entrenched themselves in Marsala, at Sicily’s westernmost point, for several hundred years; while in medieval times the Saracen invaders took their ﬁrst steps onto the island at Mazara del Vallo, a town still strongly Arabic at heart. The Greeks never secured the same foothold in Sicily’s west as elsewhere, although the remains at Segesta and Selinunte count among the island’s best. Also worth seeing are the three islands of the Égadi archipelago, and the stunning stretch of coastline protected by the Riserva Naturale dello Zingaro.

Trápani and around Out on a limb, and with more than a little North African atmosphere about it, TRÁPANI is an attractive old port town, rediscovering its charms after years of neglect. Halfway point between Europe and Tunis, it was a rich trading centre throughout the early Middle Ages, then ﬂourished again in the nineteenth and

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early twentieth centuries as a stronghold of the tuna-canning industry. After that, it went into decline, and became a salty old port with a crumbling, sun-scorched historic centre high on atmosphere, but with few creature comforts. Then, it was selected to host the 2004 Americas Cup and received a massive injection of cash – buildings were restored, streets in the historic centre pedestrianized – giving the town and its people a new conﬁdence. These days Trápani is a thoroughly pleasant and authentic place to hang out for a couple of days. Adding to its reviving fortunes, the nearby airport of Birgi is undergoing a renaissance too, and on the way to becoming Sicily’s main low-cost airport. Trápani’s Easter celebrations are justly famous, involving dramatic processions around town, particularly poignant on Good Friday. S I C I LY

Arrival and information

| Trápani and around

Approaching by land from the east of the island, you’ll arrive in the modern part of town: most buses (including those to and from Érice) pull up at the terminal in Piazza Malta; trains stop just around the corner in Piazza Umberto I. If you’re heading straight off to the Égadi Islands, note that the fast buses from the airport, Palermo, Palermo airport and Agrigento stop at the ferry and hydrofoil terminals, as well as the bus station. Ferries for the Égadi Islands, Pantelleria, Cágliari and Tunis dock at the Molo di Sanità, while hydrofoils for the Égadi Islands, Ústica and Naples dock to the east of the Molo, on Via A. Stati. Trápani’s airport, 15km south of the centre at Birgi, has ﬂights from Italian cities and Pantelleria, as well as Ryanair services from mainland Europe, Britain and Ireland. Buses (run by Terravision, but usually with Segesta written on the side) call at Trápani port, Trápani station and Palermo’s Piazza Politeama and Stazione Centrale and are timed to coincide with Ryanair ﬂights: seats are available only to Ryanair customers (you have to show your boarding card to buy a ticket: €8). Journey time to Palermo is about two hours. The tourist office is on Via Torrearsa, near the port (summer Mon–Sat 9am–1pm & 3.30–8pm, Sun 9am–1pm; reduced times in other periods; T 0923.544.533, W www.comune.trapani.it/turismo). There’s internet access at Piazza Garibaldi 28 and at Torrepali Webcafé, Via A. Staiti 73, opposite the ferry and hydrofoil ports respectively.

Accommodation Finding somewhere to stay at Easter will be tricky, unless you book well in advance, but at other times rooms are easy to come by. The best campsite here is Lido Valderice (T 0923.573.477 or 349.854.2190, W www.campinglidovalderice.it) near the beach at Lido Valderice, a 25-minute bus ride away. There are around ﬁve buses daily (except Sun in winter) from Trápani bus station (direction San Vito via Sciare) to the turn-off, from where it’s a ten-minute walk.

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Ai Lumi Corso Vittorio Emanuele 71 T 0923.540.922, W www.ailumi.it. Five small, but pristine rooms entered through a ﬂower-ﬁlled courtyard. They also own the trattoria of the same name at street-level. 3 Almaran Via San Cristoforo 8 T0923.549.847 or 349.611.0211, W www.almaran.it. Clean and pretty B&B tucked behind the waterfront; rooms have private bathrooms and a/c. 2

Maccotta Via degli Argentieri 4 T0923.28.418, Wwww.albergomaccotta.it. Smart and friendly place with spacious, modern rooms with comfortable beds but small bathrooms; a/c and wi-ﬁ available. 2 Moderno Via Ten. Genovese 20 T0923.21.247, Wwww.hotelmoderno.trapani.it. Housed in an old palazzo with a courtyard, this has simple, clean rooms with a/c, some with little balconies over the street. No breakfast. 1

The Town

S I C I LY

| Trápani and around

Trápani’s old town, broadly speaking the area west of the train station, sports a mix of often incongruous architectural styles, something that harks back to Trápani’s past as a complex medieval Mediterranean trading centre. It’s particularly true of the medieval Jewish quarter, a wedge of hairline streets and alleys that holds one of the city’s most characteristic buildings, the Palazzo della Giudecca on Via Giudecca – sixteenth-century, with a stone-studded tower and ﬁnely wrought Spanish-style Plateresque windows. Just up from here, Trápani is at its most engaging, Corso Italia preceding a confused set of three piazzas, enlivened by their surrounding churches: one doorway of the sixteenth-century Chiesa di Santa Maria di Gesù (Via San Pietro) is deﬁantly Renaissance in execution, and further up, on Piazzetta Saturno, the fourteenth-century church of Sant’Agostino retains a Gothic portal and delicate rose window. Off Piazzetta Saturno, pedestrianized Via Torrearsa neatly splits the old town. West of here Trápani’s layout becomes more regularly planned, while the main drag and shopping street, the elegant, pedestrianized Corso Vittorio Emanuele, changes its name to Via Carolina and then Via Torre di Ligny as it runs towards the Torre di Ligny – utmost point of the scimitar of land that holds the old town. South of the Corso, Via Francesco d’Assisi holds the exuberantly sculpted Chiesa del Purgatorio, at the junction with Via Domenico Giglio, where the Misteri, a group of life-sized eighteenth-century wooden ﬁgures representing scenes from the Passion, are displayed when they’re not being wheeled around town during Trápani’s Easter commemmorations. The church is theoretically open daily 9am to noon, though it’s often closed; ask at the tourist office for current information. The only incentive to set foot in the newer parts of the city is the eclectic Museo Regionale Pépoli (Mon–Sat 9am–1.30pm, Sun 9am–12.30pm; €6), a good threekilometre bus ride away in the drab heart of modern Trápani. To get there, take buses #25, #28 or #30 (or Circolare Villa Pépoli on Sun) from Piazza Vittorio Emanuele, Via Libertà or Via Garibaldi, and get off at the park, Villa Pépoli, outside the Santuario dell’Annunziata, a fourteenth-century convent. Approached through the convent’s bird-ﬁlled cloisters, the museum displays everything from local archeological ﬁnds to delicate seventeenth-century coral craftwork and a good medieval art section – look out for the grim wooden guillotine of 1789 downstairs and the eighteenth-century majolica-tiled scene of La Mattanza (the annual tuna ﬁsh kill). The convent’s Cappella della Madonna contains the city’s sacred statue, the Madonna di Trápani, attributed to Nino Pisano, standing under a grandiose marble canopy by Antonello Gagini.

Eating and drinking Eating is particularly enjoyable in Trápani. For rough-and-ready, reasonably priced ﬁsh dishes head to the Trattoria del Porto, Via A. Stati 45 (T 0923.547.842; closed Mon Sept–June). More reﬁned meals are on offer at Ai Lumi, Corso Vittorio Emanuele 71–77 (T 0923.872.418; closed Tues), with a brick-vaulted interior and an outdoor terrace, where the regional menu features home-made pasta, seafood stew and a good local wine list. The best ice creams in town are at Sebastiano, Via Roma 15, and for a quiet drink outside, head to one of the many little bars or cafés along the pedestrianized streets of the historic centre.

Érice The nearest and most exhilarating ride from Trápani is to ÉRICE, ﬁfteen minutes away by cable car (funivia). It’s a mountain town with creeping hillside alleys, stone buildings, silent charm and powerful associations. Founded by Elymnians, who

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claimed descent from the Trojans, the original city was known to the ancient world as Eryx, and a magniﬁcent temple, dedicated to Venus Erycina, Mediterranean goddess of fertility, once topped the mountain. Though the city was considered impregnable, Carthaginian, Roman, Arab and Norman invaders all forced entry over the centuries. But all respected the sanctity of Érice: the Romans rebuilt the temple and set two hundred soldiers to serve as guardians of the shrine, while the Arabs renamed the town Gebel-Hamed, or Mohammed’s mountain. Arrival, information and accommodation

S I C I LY

| Trápani and around

To get to Érice from Trápani, take bus #21 or #23 (direction Ospedale S. Antonio Abbate) and get off at the stop before the hospital, from where it’s a short walk to the funivia station (there’s also a car park here). (The cable car operates Mon 2–8.30pm, Tues–Fri 7.30am–8.30pm, Sat & Sun 9.30am–midnight, though the service may be cancelled if it’s windy.) The return trip costs €6 and you arrive at the Porta Trápani in Érice. Near Porta Trápani at Via Guarrasi 1, Érice’s tourist office (Mon–Fri 8am–2pm; T 0923.869.388) can help with accommodation. Elimo Via Vittorio Emanuele 75 T0923.869.377, Wwww.hotelelimo.it. Luxurious rooms in a beautifully restored hotel with a small courtyard garden. 4 Il Carmine Piazza del Carmine 23 T0923.869.089 or 0923.194.1532, Wwww.ilcarmine.com. Spacious, bright rooms in a former Carmelite convent in the heart of town, with separate private bathrooms. 2 Moderno Via Vittorio Emanuele 63 T0923.869.300, Wwww.hotelmodernoerice.it. The best aspect of the Moderno is its panoramic roof terrace, though the rooms are fairly mediocre for the price. 3 Tonnara di Bonagia Piazza Tonnara, Bonagia T0923.431.111, Wwww.tonnaradibonagia .it. Excellent choice for families, this hotel occupies

the buildings of an old tuna ﬁshery (complete with beached tuna-boats and Saracen watchtower) and has accommodation in apartments with a kitchen, as well as conventional rooms. There is a huge pool, a tennis court, laidback activities for kids, local produce for sale, and little paths leading straight out of the grounds to the shore, where you can swim off rocks or a wooden jetty. Very good value in low and mid-season. 3–4 Ulisse Camere Via Santa Lucia 2 T0923.860.155 or 389.985.6089, Wwww.sitodiulisse.it. Nicely furnished rooms dispersed over two buildings, with private bathrooms. The best are grouped around a tranquil central courtyard. They also have a restaurant in Via Chiaramonte serving local dishes. No credit cards. 2

The Town

Scout around the town at random: the most convoluted of routes is only going to take you a couple of hours and every street and piazza is a delight. You enter through the Norman Porta Trápani, just inside which is the Duomo (daily: March 10am–4pm; April–June & Oct 10am–6pm; July & Aug 10am–8pm; Sept 10am–7pm; Nov–Feb 10am–12.30pm; €2) and its battlemented fourteenthcentury campanile, the Torre di Re Federico, which did service as a lookout tower for Frederick III of Aragon (€2). From here there’s no set route, though passing through pretty Piazza Umberto with its outdoor bars is a good idea, while a natural start or ﬁnish is the ivy-clad Castello di Vénere at the far end of town (April–Oct daily 10am–1hr before sunset; Nov–March Sat & Sun 10am–4pm; €3); the Norman castle was built on the site of the famed ancient temple, chunks of which are incorporated in the walls. When it’s ﬁne, the views from the terraces of Érice are phenomenal – over Trápani and the slumbering whales of the Égadi Islands. Eating and drinking 936

If you’re coming for the day you may want to bring a picnic since restaurant prices in Érice are vastly inﬂated – the gardens below the Castello di Vénere make a lovely picnic spot, with great views of the Égadi Islands, especially at sunset.

Caffè Maria Via Vittorio Emanuele 4. Don’t leave town without a visit to the café or its sister pasticceria a few doors down, for marzipan goodies and exquisite cannoli. The café’s founder, Maria Grammatico, learned her trade as a girl in a convent, and has co-written a recipe book with writer Mary Taylor Simeti. Closed Tues in winter. La Pentolaccia Via Guarnotti 17 T0923.869.099. Atmospherically housed in an old monastery, this

moderately priced place serves good, home-made pasta and couscous. Meat and ﬁsh dishes are €8–14. Closed Tues. La Vetta Via G. Fontana. Standard trattoria serving pizza in the evenings, with tables outside in summer. Closed Thurs in winter. Monte San Giuliano Vicolo San Rocco 7 T0923.869.595. Really excellent food in a restaurant entered through a medieval stone archway. Closed Mon & three weeks in Nov & Jan.

The Temple of Segesta S I C I LY

| The Égadi Islands

One of the most evocative Doric temples anywhere, the temple at SEGESTA (daily 9am to 1hr before sunset; €9 including Selinunte, see p.941) lies 35km southeast of Trápani. Although unﬁnished, this Greek construction of 424 BC is virtually the only relic of an ancient city whose roots – like those of Érice – go back to the twelfth century BC. Unlike Érice, though, ancient Segesta was eventually Hellenized and spent most of the later period disputing its borders with Selinus to the south. The temple dates from a time of prosperous alliance with Athens, the building abandoned when a new dispute broke out with Selinus in 416 BC. The temple itself crowns a low hill, beyond a café and car park. From a distance you could be forgiven for thinking that it’s complete: the 36 regular white stone columns, entablature and pediment are all intact, and all it lacks is a roof. However, get closer and you see just how unﬁnished the building is: stone studs, always removed on completion, still line the stylobate, the tall columns are unﬂuted and the cella walls are missing. Below the car park, a road winds up through slopes of wild fennel to the small theatre on a higher hill beyond; there’s a minibus service every thirty minutes if you don’t fancy the twenty-minute climb. The view from the top is justly lauded, across green slopes and the plain to the sea, the deep blue of the bay a lovely contrast to the theatre’s white stone – not much damaged by the stilted motorway snaking away below. Using public transport to get to Segesta, you’d do best to catch one of the two direct Tarántola buses from Piazza Malta in Trápani, leaving at 8am, 10am, noon and 2pm (Sun 10am only), returning at 12.50pm, 1.05pm, 4.05pm and 6.30pm (Sun 1.05pm only). There are also bus services from Castellammare del Golfo and Palermo, plus infrequent trains from Trápani to Segesta-Calataﬁmi, from where it’s a twenty-minute uphill walk to the site.

The Égadi Islands Of the various islands, islets and rock stacks that fan out from the west coast of Sicily, the three Égadi Islands (Isole Égadi) are best for a quick jaunt – connected by ferry and hydrofoil with Trápani. Saved from depopulation by tourism, in season at least you’re not going to be alone, certainly on the main island, Favignana, where in August every scrap of ﬂat rock and sand is ﬁlled. But a tour of the islands is worthwhile, not least for the caves that perforate the splintered coastlines. Out of season things are noticeably quieter, and in May or June you may witness the bloody Mattanza, an age-old slaughter in this noted centre of tuna ﬁshing, though its future is uncertain. Ferries to the islands depart from Trápani’s Molo di Sanità; hydrofoils from further east along Via Ammiraglio Staiti. Though less frequent, ferries are, as always, much cheaper.

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Favignana

S I C I LY

| The Égadi Islands

FAVIGNANA, island and port town, is ﬁrst stop for the boats from Trápani, and makes a good base since it has virtually all the accommodation and the Égadis’ only campsites. Only 25 minutes by hydrofoil from the mainland, the island attracts a lot of day-trippers, keen to get onto its few rocky beaches. But get out of the main port and it’s easy enough to escape the crowds, even easier with a bike (which can be rented from dozens of outlets in the centre of town). Caves all over the island bear prehistoric traces and many are accessible if you’re determined enough. Otherwise, the two wings of the island invite separate walks; best is the circuit around the eastern part, past the bizarre ancient quarries at Cala Rossa, over the cliffs to Cala Azzura and then following the coast past the ugly tourist village at Punta Fanfalo to Lido Burrone, one of the island’s best beaches, only 1km from the port. Other beaches worth checking out are Cala Rossa and Cala Azzurra, on the eastern end of the island. The most unusual accommodation on the island is at the striking Hotel delle Cave, a designer hotel with just fourteen rooms built on the lip of an abandoned quarry out at Zona Cavallo (T 0923.925.423, W www.hoteldellecave.it; 5 –6 ), with two mini-hydromassage pools and gardens inside the quarry itself. Near the sandy beach of Cala Azzurra, Cave Bianche (T 0923.925.451, W www.cavebianche hotel.it; 5 –6 ), also inside a quarry, has chic, minimalist rooms, a pool, hydromassage and a restaurant. Top choices in town include the central and quiet Aegusa, at Via Garibaldi 11 (T 0923.922.430, W www.aegusahotel.it; 4 ), while, just outside town on Via Punta Marsala, there’s the family-run Villa Antonella (T 0923.921.073, W www.egadi.com/villaantonella; 3 ), which also has self-catering mini-apartments. There's a campsite at Contrada Arena, Egad (T 0923.921.555, W www .campingegad.it), a little over one kilometre east of town and 500m from the beach at Lido Burrone.

Levanzo LEVANZO, to the north, looks immediately inviting, its white houses against the turquoise sea reminiscent of the Greek islands. The steep coast is full of inlets and is riddled with caves. One, the Grotta del Genovese (W www.grottadel genovese.it), was discovered in 1949 and contains some remarkable Paleolithic incised drawings, six thousand years old, as well as later Neolithic pictures. To visit the cave, book at least one day in advance, either in person at Via Calvario 11, above the quay, or on T 0923.924.032 or 339.741.8800; departures are twice daily in summer by boat, less frequent in winter by jeep (€20 per person). The island’s interior has some great walks along old cart tracks, and there’s a paved (and virtually traffic-free) cornice road leading to a lovely white pebble beach by the jagged rocks of the Faraglioni. The nicest place to stay is the Lisola Residence (T 0923.194.1530 or 320.180.9090, W www.lisola.eu; closed Nov–March; 2 ), seven apartments (sleeping between two and four), that occupy simple tufa cottages originally built by nineteenthcentury tuna-canning magnate Florio for his workers 400m outside the port. Extras include a large pool, canvas sun umbrellas and loungers, and free transport to the port whenever you need it. There's a minimum stay of three nights or a week in summer. 938

Maréttimo MARÉTTIMO, furthest out of the Égadi Islands, is the place to come for solitude. Very much off the beaten track, it’s reached by only a few tourists. White

houses are scattered across the rocky island, and there’s a bar in the main piazza, along with two restaurants. The spectacular fragmented coastline is pitted with rocky coves sheltering hideaway beaches, and there are numerous gentle walks, which will take you all over the island. If you want to stay, call Rosa dei Venti (T 0923.923.249 or 333.675.8893, W www .isoladimarettimo.it; 2 ), which has half a dozen rooms with bathrooms, as well as apartments with cooking facilities, and can arrange boat trips. Alternatively, try the Maréttimo Residence (T 0923.923.202, W www.marettimoresidence.it; 4 ), a little cluster of resort cottages available for weekly rental or B&B, above a stony beach south of the main port, or ask at the café in the main square.

| Northeast of Trápani

Frequent buses run north from Trápani, cutting away from the coast until reaching the popular seaside resort of SAN VITO LO CAPO at the very nib of the northwestern headland. There are some good sands nearby, while the cape itself is only a stride away. From San Vito, you have to return to Trápani for onward transport. Buses or, more frequently, trains cut across the headland to CASTELLAMMARE DEL GOLFO, another popular resort built on and around a hefty rocky promontory, which is guarded by the squat remains of an Aragonese castle. The local train station is 4km east of town; a bus meets arrivals and shuttles you into Castellammare.

S I C I LY

Northeast of Trápani

Scopello and around Four buses a day leave from Castellammare’s bus station on Piazza della Repubblica, off the main Via Segesta (not Sun mid-Sept to mid-June) for the atmospheric hamlet of SCOPELLO, 10km northwest up the coast. The road to Scopello from Castellammare forks just before the village, with one strand running the few hundred metres down to the Tonnara do Scopello, set in its own tiny cove. This old tuna ﬁshery is where the writer Gavin Maxwell lived and worked in the 1950s, basing his Ten Pains of Death on his experiences here. It’s almost too picturesque to be true – not least the row of abandoned buildings on the quayside and the ruined old watchtowers tottering on jagged pinnacles of rock above the sea. The actual village of Scopello perches on a ridge a couple of hundred metres above the coastline, comprising little more than a paved square and a fountain, off which run a couple of alleys. In summer, particularly, book in advance if you want to stay here. A La Tranchina, at Via A. Diaz 7 (T 0924.541.099, E pensione [email protected]; 2 ), has plain rooms with a friendly English-speaking owner: you’ll eat well here too – fresh ﬁsh, and interesting pasta dishes such as pasta with peppers and home-cured bottarga (tuna ﬁsh egg roe). La Tavernetta, next door at no. 3 (T 0924.541.129, W www.albergolatavernetta.it; 3 ), has similarly pleasant rooms, most with balconies and sea views, and it also has a restaurant. The nearest campsite is Baia di Guidaloca (T 0924.541.262, W www.campin guidaloca.com; Easter to mid-Sept), 3km south of Scopello and a stone’s throw from the lovely bay of Cala Bianca, where there’s good swimming; the bus from Castellammare passes right by. Just 2km from Scopello (buses in summer only, but it’s a nice, easy walk) is the southern entrance to the Riserva Naturale dello Zingaro, Sicily’s ﬁrst nature reserve, comprising a completely unspoiled seven-kilometre stretch of coastline backed by steep mountains. At the entrance, there’s an information hut, where you can pick up a plan showing the trails through the reserve. It’s less than twenty

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minutes to the ﬁrst beach, Punta della Capreria, and 3km to the successive coves of Disa, Berretta and Marinella, which should be a little more secluded.

South of Trápani

S I C I LY

| South of Trápani

The coast south of Trápani may lack the drama of that to the north, but there are nevertheless several places you may wish to visit. The major attraction is the ancient Greek site Selinunte, with its massive ruined temples, though anyone at all interested in Sicily’s past should take care not to miss the Phoenician island colony of Mózia. There are also three historic port towns you might want to see: Marsala, famous for sweet wine, Mazara del Vallo, the most Arabic town in Sicily, and the vibrant and attractive ﬁshing port of Sciacca. There’s little else to stop for around the western coast; even less inland, which is crossed by one major road, the SS188, running from Marsala to Salemi, centre of a prosperous wine-making region.

Mózia Around 15km south of Trápani, the unique Phoenician settlement of MÓZIA (also known as Mothia or Motya) lies just offshore from the crystalline patchwork of saltpans, which line this part of the coast. Situated on one of the islands in the shallow Stagnone lagoon, it was excavated in the late nineteenth century by an Englishman, Joseph Whitaker. You can explore the ruins (daily 9.15am–6.15pm; €9) and visit the museum he established, worth doing for its magniﬁcent and sensual sculpture alone, Il Giovinetto di Mózia. If you’re reliant on public transport, the island is more easily reached from Marsala: regular buses run from Piazza del Popolo to the ferry landing. And should you want to stay in the area, the peaceful agriturismo Baglio Vajarassa (T 0923.968.628, W www.bagliovajarassa.com; no credit cards; 2 , half board €60 per person) at Contrada Spagnola 176, a couple of kilometres south of the ferry landing, offers rooms furnished with antiques, and typical local dishes for dinner around a communal table.

Marsala

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Bypassing Mózia, and pretty much keeping within sight of the sea all the way, the western rail loop runs down the coast from Trápani to MARSALA, a distance of around 25km. The city, which takes its name from the Arabic Marsah-el-Allah, the port of Allah, was once the main Saracenic base in Sicily, but since the late eighteenth century it has been better known for the dessert wine that carries its name, something every bar and restaurant will sell you. The centre of Marsala is extremely attractive, a clean sixteenth-century layout that’s free of traffic and littered with high, ageing buildings and arcaded courtyards. The town also has two excellent museums. The most central, behind the cathedral at Via Garraffa 57, is the Museo degli Arazzi (Tues–Sat 9.30am–1pm & 4–6pm, Sun 9.30am–noon; €2.50), whose sole display is a series of eight enormous hand-stitched wool and silk tapestries depicting the capture of Jerusalem – sixteenth-century and beautifully rich, in burnished red, gold and green. Afterwards, walk out to the cape (follow the main Via XI Maggio to Piazza della Vittoria and bear left towards the water); one of the stone-vaulted warehouses that line the promenade holds the equally impressive Museo Archeologico e della Nave Punica (daily 9am–6pm; €4). Its major exhibit is a reconstructed Punic war ship once rowed by 68 oarsmen, probably sunk during

the First Punic War, and rediscovered in 1971. Other bits and pieces on display are from the excavated site (mostly Roman) of Lilybaeum. If you want a meal in Marsala, head for Il Gallo e l’Innamorata, Via S. Bilardello 18 (T 0923.195.4446; closed Tues), a small osteria with great food, including bruschetta with bottarga and busiati con ragu di tonno.

Mazara del Vallo

S I C I LY

| South of Trápani

Half an hour’s drive beyond Marsala, MAZARA DEL VALLO is Sicily’s most important ﬁshing port and a place of equal distinction for the Arabs and Normans who dominated the island a thousand years ago. The ﬁrst Saracen gain in Sicily, Mazara was Arabic for 250 years until captured by Count Roger in 1075: the island’s ﬁrst Norman parliament met in the town 22 years later, and a relic of that period is the tiny pink-domed Norman chapel of San Nicolò, on the edge of the harbour. North Africans crew the colourful ﬁshing boats that block the harbour and river, the old city kasbah once more houses a Tunisian community. Wandering around the harbour area is the most rewarding thing to do in Mazara, although you can also spend an enjoyable hour or so pottering around the town. There’s a remodelled Norman Duomo, which shelters some Roman and Byzantine remains, and in nearby Piazza del Plebiscito, the ﬁfteenth-century church of Sant’Egido has recently been transformed into the Museo del Satiro (daily 9am–6pm; €6), home of a somewhat risqué fourth-century-BC bronze satyr captured in the ecstatic throes of an orgiastic Dionysian dance. It was hauled up by a Mazara ﬁshing boat, the Captain Ciccio, in the waters between Pantelleria and Cape Bon, Tunisia, in 1998. Sadly, as the ﬁshermen brought the catch aboard, one of the arms broke off and has so far not been recovered. More archeological ﬁnds can be seen at two ex-churches, now both housing museums (both Mon– Fri 8am–2pm; free): San Bartolomeo off Via Porta Palermo, is home to the Mirabilia Urbis, while San Carlo on Via San Giovanni houses the Amphoreus. Mazara’s tourist office is on Piazza Mokarta (Tues–Sat 8am–2pm & 3–8pm, Sun 8am–2pm; T 0923.942.776).

Selinunte (Selinus) The westernmost of the Hellenic colonies, the Greek city of Selinus – Selinunte in modern Italian – reached its peak in the ﬁfth century BC when a series of mighty temples was erected. A bitter rival of Segesta, whose lands lay adjacent to the north, the powerful city and its fertile plain attracted enemies hand over ﬁst, and it was only a matter of time before Selinus caught the eye of Segesta’s ally, Carthage. Geographically vulnerable, the city was sacked by Carthaginians, any recovery forestalled by earthquakes that later razed the city. Despite the destruction, which left the site completely abandoned until it was rediscovered in the sixteenth century, the ruins of Selinus have exerted a romantic hold ever since. The site of Selinus is set back behind the village of Marinella (see p.942). It’s split into two parts with temples in each, known only as Temples A–G. The two parts are enclosed within the same site, with the car park and entrance (daily 9am to 1hr before sunset; €9 including Segesta, see p.937) lying through the landscaped earthbanks that preclude views of the east group of temples from the road. The ﬁrst stop is at the East Group. Shrouded in the wild celery which gave the ancient city its name, the temples are in various stages of ruin: the most complete is the one nearest the sea (Temple E), while the northernmost (Temple G) is a tangle of columned wreckage six metres high in places. The road leads down from here, across the (now buried) site of the old harbour to the second part of excavated

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Selinus, the acropolis (where there is another car park), a site containing what remains of the other temples (ﬁve in all), as well as the well-preserved city streets and massive, stepped walls which rise above the duned beach below. Temple C stands on the highest point of the acropolis, and there are glorious views from its stones out over the sparkling sea: from this temple were removed some of the best metopes, now on show in Palermo’s archeological museum. To get there you’ll need to take a bus from the train station (2–8 daily; 25min) in Castelvetrano, itself thirty minutes by bus from Mazara del Vallo.

Marinella S I C I LY

| South of Trápani

Marinella, right next to the Greek ruins of Selinunte, is no longer the isolated place it once was, with new buildings in the centre and the seafront slightly top-heavy with trattorias and pensioni these days. But it remains an attractive place, certainly if you’re planning to make use of the ﬁne sand beach that stretches west from the village to the ruins. Buses pull up on the road that leads down to the seafront. Among the hotels and B&Bs, try Sicilia Cuore Mio, Via della Cittadella 44 (T 0924.46.077 or 336.612.769, W www.siciliacuoremio.it; closed Dec–March; 2 ), facing the archeological site at the back and with a long terrace overlooking the sea in front. Away from the seafront, take Via Persefone from the main road into town to reach Il Pescatore, Via Castore e Polluce 31 (T 0924.46.303, W www.affittacamereilpescatore.it; no credit cards; 1 ), which has a genial host, fruit breakfasts on the terrace and rooftop camping. There are also two campsites virtually next to each other on the main road, 1500m north of the village: the Athena (T 0924.46.132, W www.campingathenaselinunte.it) and Il Maggiolino (T 0924.46.044, W www.campingmaggiolino.it); the bus from Castelvetrano passes right by them. Via Marco Polo, the road above the west beach, is where all the best eating and drinking places are, including Baffo’s (closed Nov–March), worth a visit for its pizzas, fettuccine dishes and views. Alternatively, if you’re feeling energetic, walk the 3km to the restaurant La Pineta on the east beach, Mare Pineta, for its great location, ﬁsh dishes and speciality bread, though prices are fairly steep (call in winter T 0924.46.820).

Sciacca

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FS buses leave from outside Castelvetrano train station three times daily (1 on Sun) for the atmospheric port of SCIACCA, picking up at the abandoned Selinunte station in Marinella village. Sciacca’s upper town is skirted by medieval walls, which form high sides to the steep streets, rising to a ruined Spanish castle. Below, the lower town sits on a clifftop terrace overlooking the harbour, where it’s easy to while away time drinking in the coastal views. There are also some wonderful Roman hot springs, still in operation next to the Grand Hotel delle Terme on Via Nuove Terme (Mon 3.30–7.30pm, Tues–Sat 9.30am–1.30pm & 3.30–7.30pm, Sun 9.30am–1.30pm; €6), and a helpful tourist office at Corso Vittorio Emanuele 84 (Mon–Fri 9am–1pm, also Wed 3.30–7pm; T 0925.22.744, W www.servizioturisti coregionalesciacca.it). With an active harbour and some good beaches close by, Sciacca makes a nice place to stay over, and there are a few bed and breakfasts, including the sea-facing Aliai, Via Gaie de Garaffe 60 (T 0925.905.388, W www.aliai.com; 2 ), which has antique touches in its spacious rooms and free wi-ﬁ. The nearest campsite, Makauda Beach (T 0925.997.001, W www.makaudabeach.it; closed late Sept to late April), 7km east of town at Località San Giorgio, also has bungalows and is best reached by taxi if you don’t have your own transport.

Pantelleria

S I C I LY

| Pantelleria

Forty kilometres nearer to Tunisia than to Sicily, PANTELLERIA is the most singular of Sicily’s outlying volcanic islands. Madly trendy (Armani has a dammuso here, Madonna rents one) its strategic position kept it in the mainstream of Sicilian history for years. Nowadays the most visible sign of its past is the gloomy black Castello Barabacane, whose origins are Roman, but whose present appearance owes most to the Spanish. The island was used as one of the main Mediterranean bases by the Fascists during World War II, and was bombed without mercy by the Allies in May 1943 as they advanced from North Africa. In part, this explains the morose appearance of the island’s main town (also called Pantelleria) – thrown up in unedifying concrete. There are no beaches of any kind in Pantelleria, its rough black coastline mainly jagged rocks, but the swimming is still pretty good in some exceptionally scenic spots. Inland, the largely mountainous country offers plenty of rambling opportunities, all an easy moped- or bus-ride from the port. If you’re spending any length of time on Pantelleria, you may want to stay in one of the local dammuso houses: a throwback to the buildings of Neolithic times, their strong walls and domed roofs keep the temperature down indoors. Many are available at W www .pantelleriatravel.com. The island’s main drawback is the cost of living: there are only a few hotels, where there may be a minimum three-day stay in July and August, while food (and water) is mostly imported and therefore relatively expensive. The best times to visit are May/June or September/October, to avoid the summer’s ferocious heat.

Pantelleria Town PANTELLERIA TOWN is the site of most of the island’s accommodation and facilities. For online information, consult W www.pantelleria.it. The airport is 5km southeast of town; a bus connects with ﬂight arrivals and drops you in the central Piazza Cavour. Arriving by sea, you’ll disembark right in the centre of town, unless bad weather forces a landing at Scauri, a smaller port on the island’s southwestern side, from where a bus takes foot passengers into town. The tourist office is near the castle on Lungomare Borsellino (mid-May to mid-Sept Mon–Sat 10am–1pm & 6–8.30pm; T 0923.911.838, W www.proloco pantelleria.it). The few hotels in town are mostly characterless and pricey, but there’s a decent B&B a ten-minute walk from the port – La Rosamarina, Via Sicania 10, off Via Villa (T 328.924.0159, E [email protected]; 3 ), has two rooms with air conditioning, and one has a kitchen. Alternatively, the Mediterraneo Hotel (T 0923.911.299, W www.pantelleriahotel.it; 3 ), nearer the dock at Via Borgo Italia 6, has harbour-facing rooms. The best places to eat are Acquamarina, Via Borgo Italia (T 0923.911.422; closed lunch Sat & Sun in summer, all day Sun in winter), a trendy spot with large windows opening right onto the harbour. Outside town, try La Pergola,

Getting to Pantelleria Pantelleria is a forty-minute ﬂight from Trápani (1–3 daily), and a ﬁfty-minute ﬂight from Palermo (1–2 daily); the normal one-way fare from either is around €85, but with special offers on the web, you can end up paying less than half that (try Wwww.expedia.it and www.edreams.it). Siremar (Wwww.siremar.it) runs ferries to Pantelleria from Trápani (1 daily; Oct–May not Sun; 6hr; up to €34 each way).

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Via Contrada Suvaki, on the way to Scauri (T 0923.918.420; closed daytime and, in winter, Tues), which has extremely good, fresh local food, and is open all year.

Around the island

S I C I LY

| Travel details

Local buses leave from Piazza Cavour, with regular departures to all the main villages on the island – but note that there are no services on Sundays. There are seven daily buses along the southwest coast to the village of Scauri, passing on the way the ﬁrst of the island’s strange sesi, massive black Neolithic funeral mounds of piled rock, with low passages leading inside. On foot, it’s just over an hour from the sesi to Sataria, where concrete steps lead down to a tiny square-cut sea pool. In the cave behind are more pools where warm water bubbles through, reputed to be good for curing rheumatism and skin diseases. Along the northeast coast to the villages of Kamma and Tracino (4 daily buses), get the bus to drop you at the top of the route down into Gadir, a small anchorage with just a few houses hemmed in by volcanic pricks of rock. From here it’s an easy, fairly ﬂat hour’s stroll to the charming Cala Levante, a huddle of houses around another tiny ﬁshing harbour. Where the road peters out, bear right along the path at the second anchorage and keep along the coast for another ﬁve minutes until the Arco dell’Elefante, or “Elephant Arch”, hoves into view, named after the hooped formation of rock that resembles an elephant stooping to drink. The principal inland destination is Pantelleria’s main volcano, the Montagna Grande, whose summit is the island’s most distinctive feature seen from out at sea. Buses (3 daily) run from the port for the crumbly old village of Siba, perched on a ridge below the volcano. To climb the peak of Montagna Grande (836m), keep left at the telephone sign by the tabacchi here, and strike off the main road. From Siba, another (signposted) path – on the left as you follow the road through the village – brings you in around twenty minutes to the Sauna Naturale (or Bagno Asciutto). It’s little more than a slit in the rock-face, where you can crouch in absolute darkness, breaking out into a heavy sweat as soon as you enter.

Travel details Trains

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Services are drastically reduced on Sun and hols. Agrigento to: Palermo (12 daily; 2hr 15min). Catania to: Enna (Mon–Sat 7 daily; 1hr 20min); Messina (1–2 hourly; 1hr 30min); Palermo (3 daily; 3hr 45min); Siracusa (hourly; 1hr 30min); Taormina (at least 1 hourly; 40min). Enna to: Catania (6 daily; 1hr 20min); Palermo (2 daily; 2hr 20min). Messina to: Catania (1–2 hourly; 1hr 30min–2hr); Cefalù (12 daily; 2–3hr); Milan (10 daily; 13hr); Milazzo (1–2 hourly; 25min–45min); Naples (10 daily; 5hr 50min–6hr 30min); Palermo

(12 daily; 3hr 15min–4hr 30min); Rome (18 daily; 7–9hr); Taormina (1–2 hourly; 40min–1hr 10min). Palermo to: Agrigento (11 daily; 2hr 15min); Catania (3 daily; 3hr 45min); Cefalù (hourly; 45min–1hr); Enna via Caltanisetta (3 daily; 2hr 10min–3hr 15min); Marsala (5 daily; 3hr–3hr 45min, may involve change); Mazara del Vallo (6 daily; 3hr, may involve change); Messina (13 daily; 3hr–4hr); Milazzo (13 daily; 2hr 30min–3hr); Trápani (5 daily; 2hr 15min–3hr 45min). Ragusa to: Módica (8 daily; 20min); Noto (5 daily; 1hr 30min). Segesta Tempio to: Trápani (3 daily; 25min).

Siracusa to: Catania (10 daily; 1hr 30min); Messina (9 daily; 3hr); Noto (9 daily; 30min); Ragusa (4 daily; 2hr 10min); Taormina (10 daily; 2hr). Trápani to: Marsala (13 daily; 30min); Mazara del Vallo (13 daily; 40min–1hr); Palermo (6 daily; 2hr 15min–4hr); Segesta Tempio (4 daily; 20min).

Circumetnea trains

Buses

The services detailed here refer to the period from June to Sept; you should expect frequencies to be greatly reduced or suspended outside these months, especially to the Aeolian Islands. Lípari to: Alicudi (5 weekly; 3hr 10min–3hr 50min); Filicudi (5 weekly; 2hr–2hr 45min); Milazzo (7 daily; 2hr); Naples (5 weekly; 14hr); Panarea (1–2 daily; 1hr 45min–2hr); Salina (2 daily; 50min); Strómboli (1–2 daily; 3hr–4hr 15min); Vulcano (3 daily; 25min). Messina to: Lípari (4 daily; 1hr 40min–3hr); Villa San Giovanni (every 20min; 40min). Milazzo to: Alicudi (2 daily; 6hr); Filicudi (2 daily; 4hr 55min); Ginostra (5–8 weekly; 6hr); Lípari (6–9 daily; 2hr); Naples (2 weekly; 16hr 30min); Panarea (6–10 weekly; 4–5hr); Rinella (6–8 weekly; 3hr 40min); Santa Marina (4 daily; 3hr–3hr 40min); Strómboli (6–10 weekly; 5hr 10min–7hr); Vulcano (3–6 daily; 1hr 30min). Palermo to: Cágliari (1 weekly; 14hr 30min); Genoa (1 daily; 20hr); Livorno (3 weekly; 17hr); Naples (1 daily; 11hr); Ústica (1 daily; 2hr 20min). Trápani to: Cágliari (1 weekly; 10hr); Favignana (3 daily; 55min–1hr 25min); Levanzo (3 daily; 50min–1hr 40min); Maréttimo (1 daily; 2hr 30min–3hr); Pantelleria (1 daily; 5hr 45min).

| Travel details

Schedules below are for Mon–Sat services; on Sun and holidays services are either drastically reduced or nonexistent. Agrigento to: Catania (hourly; 2hr 50min); Palermo (5 daily; 2hr 30min); Trápani (3 daily; 3hr). Catania to: Agrigento (approx hourly; 2hr 50min); Enna (12 daily; 1hr 30min–2hr 25min); Messina (1–2 hourly; 1hr 35min); Nicolosi (hourly; 40min); Noto (7 daily; 2hr 25min–2hr 15min); Palermo (hourly; 2hr 40min); Piazza Armerina (3–6 daily; 1hr 50min); Ragusa (12 daily; 2hr); Rifugio Sapienza (1 daily; 2hr); Rome (2–3 daily; 11hr); Siracusa (approx hourly; 1hr 20min); Taormina (16 daily; 1hr 40min). Enna to: Catania (8–10 daily; 1hr 15min); Piazza Armerina (4–6 daily; 30min). Messina to: Catania (1–2 hourly; 1hr 35min); Catania airport (16 daily; 1hr 50min); Giardini-Naxos (7 daily; 55min); Milazzo (approx hourly; 50min); Palermo (6 daily; 2hr 40min); Randazzo (2 daily; 1hr 50min); Taormina (9 daily; 1hr–1hr 50min). Milazzo to: Messina (approx hourly; 50min). Palermo to: Agrigento (5 daily; 2hr 30min); Catania (hourly; 2hr 40min); Cefalù (3 daily; 1hr); Marsala (hourly; 2hr 30min); Messina (6 daily Mon–Sat; 2hr 40min); Siracusa (3 daily; 3hr 15min); Trápani (1–2 hourly; 2hr). Piazza Armerina to: Enna (6 daily; 30min); Palermo (5 daily Mon–Sat; 2hr 15min). Siracusa to: Catania (approx hourly; 1hr 20min); Catania airport (7 daily; 1hr 10min); Noto (12 daily; 55min); Piazza Armerina (1 daily; 2hr 30min); Ragusa (5 daily Mon–Sat; 2hr 15min); Rome (1 daily; 13hr). Taormina to: Catania (16 daily; 1hr 40min); Catania airport (6 daily Mon–Sat; 1hr 25min).

Ferries

S I C I LY

Catania to: Paternò/Adrano/Bronte/Maletto/ Randazzo (9 daily in summer, 16 daily in winter; 35min/1hr/1hr 35min/1hr 50min/2hr). Randazzo to: Linguaglossa/Giarre-Riposto (7 daily in summer, 10 daily in winter; 30min/1hr).

Trápani to: Agrigento (3 daily; 3hr 10min–3hr 40min); Érice (8 daily; 45min); San Vito lo Capo (8 daily; 1hr 20min).

Hydrofoils and fast ferries Most of the services listed are greatly reduced or suspended outside the summer season. At the time of publication, it was uncertain whether the customary daily summer hydrofoil service between the Aeolian Islands and Palermo will function in the future. There is also some doubt as to whether regional government subsidies to the hydrofoil companies will continue, which could result in services being even further reduced. Lípari to: Alicudi (2 daily; 1hr–2hr 45min); Filicudi (2 daily; 1hr); Ginostra (3 daily; 1hr–1hr 25min); Messina (3 daily; 1hr 50min–2hr 10min); Milazzo (16 daily; 1hr); Panarea (5 daily; 1hr); Reggio di Calabria (3 daily; 1hr 55min); Salina (12 daily; 20min); Strómboli (5 daily; 1hr 15min–1hr 45min); Vulcano (17 daily; 10min). Messina to: Lípari (3 daily June–Sept; 1 daily Oct–May; 1hr 40min); Reggio di Calabria (3 daily June–Sept; 1 daily Oct–May; 15–25min); Vulcano (3 daily June–Sept; 1 daily Oct–May; 1hr 20min–3hr 10min).

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Milazzo to: Alicudi (2 daily; 2hr 55min); Filicudi (2 daily; 2hr 20min); Ginostra (3 daily; 1hr 45min–2hr 30min); Lípari (10 daily; 45min–1hr); Panarea (5 daily; 1hr 45min–2hr 10min); Rinella (2 daily; 1hr 40min); Santa Marina (8 daily; 1hr 20min–2hr); Strómboli (5 daily; 1hr 25min–2hr 20min); Vulcano (approx hourly; 45min). Trápani to: Favignana (hourly; 15–40min); Levanzo (hourly; 20–40min); Maréttimo (5 daily; 1hr); Naples (3–4 weekly; 6hr 45min); Ústica (3–4 weekly; 2hr 30min). Ústica to: Palermo 2–3 daily; 1hr 15min); Trápani (3–4 weekly; 2hr 50min).

S I C I LY

| Travel details 946

Flights Palermo to: Pantelleria (1–2 daily; 50min). Trápani to: Pantelleria (1–3 daily; 40min).

International ferries and catamarans Catania to: Malta (3–6 weekly July & Aug, 1–2 weekly March–June & Sept to early Oct; 3hr). Palermo to: Tunis (1 weekly; 9hr). Trápani to: Tunis (1 weekly; 7hr 30min).

N

Sardinia S ARDI NI A

|

AUSTRIA

SWITZERLAND 4 3

HUNGARY

SLOVENIA CROATIA

7

BOSNIAHERZEGOVINA

FRANCE

8

10 MONTENEGRO

9 Corsica (Fr.)

SERBIA

5

1 2

6

11

ADRIATIC SEA

12 14 13

15

17 TYRRHENIAN SEA

IONIAN SEA 16 ALGERIA

0

100 km

TUNISIA

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CHAPTER 17

✱

S ARDI NI A

✱

| Highlights ✱

Highlights

Cágliari’s old town Cágliari’s Castello quarter is the most atmospheric part of town, a dense warren of alleys girded by thick walls. See p.956 Nora Although much of this Carthaginian and Roman archeological site is submerged under the sea, what remains – including mosaics, a theatre and baths – gives a good indication of the town’s former importance. See p.959 Beaches Sardinia has secluded beaches along every coast; among the ﬁnest are

those at Chia and La Pelosa. See p.959 & p.979

✱

Su Nuraxi Sardinia’s mysterious prehistoric nuraghi are strewn throughout the island, and this is one of the most impressive. See p.961

✱

Sa Sartiglia, Oristano One of the island’s most spectacular festivals, involving brilliant feats of equestrian prowess, fabulous costumes and lashings of medieval pageantry. See p.963

✱

Tíscali A vast mountain cave housing the remains of a prehistoric village. See p.969

La Pelosa beach

N

Sardinia |

C

S ARDI NI A

loser to the North African coast at Tunisia than the Italian mainland and with a ﬁerce sense of independence, Sardinia (Sardegna) can feel distinctly un-Italian. D.H. Lawrence found it exotically different when he passed through here in 1921 – “lost”, as he put it, “between Europe and Africa and belonging to nowhere”. The island may seem less remote nowadays – and it’s certainly more accessible, with frequent ﬂights serving Cágliari, Olbia and Alghero – but large tracts remain remarkably untouched by tourism, particularly the interior. The island’s main draw, however, is its dazzling coastline, with some of the cleanest beaches in Italy, which can be packed in peak season (particularly August), when ferries bring in a steady stream of sun-worshippers from what the islanders call il continente, or mainland Italy. The weather is generally warm enough for a swim as early as May, however, and October is bright and sunny – reason enough to avoid the summer crowds. Although not famed for its cultural riches, the island does hold some surprises, not least the remains of the various civilizations that passed through here. Its central Mediterranean position ensured that it was never left alone for long, and from the Carthaginians onwards the island was ravaged by a succession of invaders, each of them leaving some imprint behind: Roman and Carthaginian ruins, Genoan fortresses and a string of elegant Pisan churches, not to mention some impressive Gothic and Spanish Baroque architecture. Perhaps most striking of all, however, are the remnants of Sardinia’s only signiﬁcant native culture, known as the nuraghic civilization after the 7000-odd nuraghi (ancient stone dwelling) that litter the landscape. On the whole, Sardinia’s smaller centres are the most attractive, but the lively capital, Cágliari – for many the arrival point – shouldn’t be written off. With good accommodation and restaurants, it makes a useful base for exploring the southern third of the island. The other main ferry port is Olbia in the north, little more than a transit town but conveniently close to the pristine beaches of the jagged northern coast. The Costa Smeralda, a few kilometres distant, is Sardinia’s best-known resort area and lives up to its reputation for glitzy opulence. Both Olbia and Cágliari have airports, as does the vibrant resort of Alghero – a ﬁshing port with a distinctive Catalan ﬂavour in the northwest of the island that retains a friendly, unspoiled air despite its healthy tourist industry. Sardinia’s biggest interior town, Nuoro, makes a useful stopover for visiting some of the remoter mountain areas. Of these, the Gennargentu range, covering the heart of the island, holds the highest peaks and provides rich evidence of the island’s traditional culture, in particular the numerous village festivals.

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Genoa, Corsica & France

Corsica, Genoa & Naples

Corsica

La Maddalena

Santa Teresa di Gallura

Porto Pollo

I. Caprera SS125

Asinara

Palau

Porto Cervo Costa Cannigione Smeralda Arzachena

La Pelosa Stintino

G A L L U R

Sássari

Golfo Aranci

Olbia

A 5

S ARDI NI A

SS1 2

Anghelu Ruju

Chilivani

Posada

Siniscola

Alghero

Capo Caccia

Genoa, Livorno, Naples, Piombino & Civitavecchia

Porto Torres

Tempio Pausania

Castelsardo

& Fiumicino

Punta Falcone

Civitavecchia, Livorno

SARDINIA

Torralba

| 131 SS

Orosei

Nuoro

Bosa

Oliena Dorgali

Macomer

Abbasanta

Tharros

Oristano

Fonni

Tiscali

Orgósolo

I A

Cala Gonone

Gola Su

G Gorroppu B A Monte La B A R Baunei Mármora Désulo Sórgono Tonara Tortolì MONTI DEL Samugheo Aritzo G E N N A R G E N T U

Giara di Gesturi Su Nuraxi

Las Plassas

Laconi Ísili Gesturi Barúmini

Santa Maria Navarrese

Genoa, Fiumicino & Civitavecchia

Sinis

Mamoiada

CN 1D 13 SS

Arbatax

Mandas

Sanluri 131 SS

Muravera Iglésias

S S1 3 0

Portoscuso San Pietro

Cágliari

Carbonia

Carloforte

Villasimius

Calasetta Sant’ Antíoco

Pula Nora

Sant’Antíoco Chia

Capo Spartivento

950

0 Civitavecchia, Palermo & Trapani

20 km

Regional food and wine

Of all the phases in Sardinia’s chequered history, the prehistoric Nuraghic era is perhaps the most intriguing. Although little is known about the society, plenty of traces survive, most conspicuous of which are the mysterious, stone-built constructions known as nuraghi, mainly built between 1500 and 500 BC both for defensive purposes and as dwellings, and unique to Sardinia. The Nuraghic culture peaked between the tenth and eighth centuries BC, trading with the Phoenicians, among others, from the eastern Mediterranean. But from the sixth century BC, the more warlike Carthaginians settled on the island, with their capital less than 200km away near present-day Tunis and their occupation continued gradually until it was challenged by the emergence of Rome. Caught in the middle, the Sards fought on both sides until their decisive defeat by the Romans in 177–6 BC, during which some 27,000 islanders were slaughtered. A core of survivors ﬂed into the impenetrable central and eastern mountains, where they retained their independence in an area called Barbaria by the Romans, known today as the Barbágia. The most impressive remains left by the Romans can be seen in Cágliari, on the coast south of the capital at Nora, and at Tharros, west of Oristano – all Carthaginian sites later enlarged by Roman settlers – and strong Latin traces still survive in the Sard dialect today. After the Roman withdrawal around the ﬁfth century, the destructive effects of malaria and corsair raids from North Africa prompted the abandonment of the island’s coasts in favour of more secure inland settlements. The numerous coastal watchtowers which can still be seen today testify to the constant threat of piracy and invasion. In the eleventh century ecclesiastical rights over Sardinia were granted to the rising city-state of Pisa, with its inﬂuence mainly concentrated in the south, based in Cágliari, and Pisan churches can be found throughout Sardinia. By the end of the thirteenth century, however, Pisa’s rival Genoa had established itself in the north of the island, with power-bases in Sássari and on the coast, while the situation was further complicated in 1297, when Pope Boniface VIII gave James II of Aragon exclusive rights over both Sardinia and Corsica in exchange for surrendering his claims to Sicily. Local resistance to the Aragonese was led by Arborea, the area around present-day Oristano, and championed in particular by

| History

Some history

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Sardinian cooking revolves around the freshest of ingredients simply prepared: seafood – especially lobster – is grilled over open ﬁres scented with myrtle and juniper, as is meltingly tender suckling pig. A few wild boar escape the ﬁre long enough to be made into prosciutto di cinghiale, a ham with a strong ﬂavour of game. Being surrounded by sparkling seas, Sardinians also make rich, Spanish-inspired ﬁsh stews and produce bottarga, a version of caviar made with mullet eggs. Pasta is substantial here, taking the form of culurgiones (massive ravioli ﬁlled with cheese and egg) or malloreddus (saffron-ﬂavoured, gnocchi-like shapes), while cheeses tend to be made from ewe’s milk and are either fresh and herby or pungent and salty – like the famous pecorino sardo. The island is also famous for the quality and variety of its bread, ranging from parchment-thin pane carasau to chunky rustic loaves intended to sustain shepherds on the hills. As in Sicily, there is an abundance of light and airy pastries, frequently ﬂavoured with lemon, almonds or orange-ﬂower water. Vernaccia is the most famous Sardinian wine: a hefty drink reminiscent of sherry and treated in a similar way – the bone-dry version as an aperitif and the sweet variant as a dessert wine. The stand-out red is the Cannonau di Sardegna, a heady number much favoured by locals. Among the whites, look out for dry Torbato or the full-ﬂavoured Trebbiano Sardo, both perfect accompaniments to local ﬁsh and seafood.

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| Getting to Sardinia • Getting around the island 952

Eleanor of Arborea, a warrior whose forces succeeded in stemming the Spanish advance. Following her death in 1404, however, Sardinian opposition crumbled, beginning three centuries of Spanish occupation of the island. Traces of Spain’s long dominion survive in Sardinia’s dialects and in the sprinkling of Gothic and Baroque churches and palaces, with Alghero, in particular, still boasting a strong Catalan dialect and the air of a Spanish enclave. In the wake of the War of the Spanish Succession (1701–20), Victor Amadeus, Duke of Savoy, took possession of the island, which became the new Kingdom of Sardinia. The years that followed saw a new emphasis on reconstruction, with the opening of schools, investment in industry and agriculture, and the building of roads. But Savoy’s quarrels became Sardinia’s, and the island found itself threatened by Napoleon, who led an unsuccessful attempt at invasion in 1793. Garibaldi embarked on both his major expeditions from his farm on one of Sardinia’s outlying islands, Caprera, and the Kingdom of Sardinia ended with the Uniﬁcation of Italy in 1861. Since then, Sardinia’s integration into the modern nation-state has not always been easy. Outbreaks of banditry, for example, associated with the hinterland and the Gennargentu mountains in particular, were ruthlessly suppressed, but there was little money available to address the root causes of the problem, nor much interest in doing so. The island beneﬁted from the land reforms of Mussolini, however, which included the harnessing and damming of rivers, the draining of land, and the introduction of agricultural colonies from the mainland. After World War II, Sardinia was granted semi-autonomous status, and the island was saturated with enough DDT to rid it of malaria forever. Such improvements, together with the increasing revenues from tourism, have helped marginalize local opposition towards the central government, at the same time creating a bolthole for wealthy mainlanders and holidaymakers, including at least two prime ministers – Blair and Berlusconi.

Getting to Sardinia If you’re coming direct from the UK, you’ll ﬁnd the regular ﬂights operated by Ryanair and easyJet to Alghero, Olbia and Cágliari hard to beat for price. From the Italian mainland there are frequent daily ﬂights to all three of the island’s airports from Rome, Milan and Bologna, with less frequent connections from smaller centres. Most routes are served by Alitalia, Air One and Meridiana; prices start at around €90 for a one-way Rome–Olbia ticket, and there are plenty of deals and weekend discounts available. A cheaper option is to take a ferry from mainland Italy, as well as from Sicily, Corsica and France (see box opposite). You should make bookings several months in advance for summer crossings, especially if you have a car or bike; August sailings can be fully booked by May. Basic prices range from about €30 to €90 per person, depending on the season and the route taken; pricier tickets include use of a reclining armchair, while the cheapest tickets (“Ponte”) involve sleeping on deck. A berth provides a better night’s sleep, but adds another €20 or so. The charge for a vehicle starts at around €70 for a small car in low season. Fares on the high-speed ferries (unità veloci) are €40–50 travelling second-class, plus €90–120 for a small car. Look out for discounts applying to return tickets bought in advance within certain periods, and for special deals for a car plus two or three passengers.

Getting around the island Much the most convenient way of getting around the island is by car; there are rental offices in all the major towns (see p.958 for those in Cágliari), though a

Ferries to Sardinia From Ajaccio Bonifacio

Civitavécchia Civitavécchia

Golfo Aranci Olbia

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Livorno Livorno Marseille

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Sardinia Tirrenia, Moby & SNAV Tirrenia Tirrenia, Grandi Navi Veloci & Moby Tirrenia & Grandi Navi Veloci Sardinia Moby SNCM & La Meridionale Tirrenia & DiMaio Lines DiMaio Lines

Palermo Piombino

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decent network of public transport covers most localities. There is an islandwide bus service run by ARST, while FdS operates in speciﬁc areas as well as the longer hauls between towns. Trains connect the major towns of Cágliari, Oristano, Sássari and Olbia, while smaller narrow-gauge FdS lines link Nuoro and Alghero with the main network. From mid-June to mid-September, the FdS-run Trenino Verde steam and diesel trains (W www.treninoverde.com) take scenic routes to various destinations around the island, including Bosa, Palau and Arbatax.

Cágliari and around Viewing CÁGLIARI, Sardinia’s capital, from the sea at the start of his Sardinian sojourn in 1921, D.H. Lawrence compared it to Jerusalem: “strange and rather wonderful, not a bit like Italy”, and the city still makes a striking impression today. Crowned by its historic nucleus squeezed within a protective ring of Pisan fortiﬁcations, its setting is enhanced by the calm lagoons (stagni) west of the

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city and along the airport road, a habitat for cranes, cormorants and ﬂamingos. In the centre, the evening promenades along Via Manno are the smartest you’ll see in Sardinia, dropping down to the noisier Piazza Yenne and Largo Carlo Felice, around which most of the shops, restaurants, banks and hotels are located. At the bottom of the town, the porticos of portside Via Roma shelter more shops and bars. Cágliari’s main attractions are the archeological museum with its captivating collection of nuraghic statuettes, the city walls with their two Pisan towers looking down over the port, and the cathedral – all within easy distance of each other. There is also a sprinkling of Roman remains, including an impressive amphitheatre, while nearby excursions include Nora, the most complete ancient site on Sardinia, and the islands of Sant’Antíoco and San Pietro. S ARDI NI A

Arrival, information and transport

| Cágliari and around

Cágliari’s airport (W www.sogaer.it), where facilities include an ATM and an information desk (daily 8am–10pm in summer, 9am–9pm in winter), is linked to town at least every thirty minutes from 8.45am until the last ﬂight arrival – about 12.30pm – and takes ten minutes (tickets €2 from the airport shop); otherwise a taxi ride costs around €15, more after 10pm. Cágliari’s port is a short walk from Piazza Matteotti, which holds the tourist office (daily 8.30am–1.30pm & 2–8pm; T 070.669.255, W http://visit-cagliari .it), as well as the train and bus stations. The square is also the terminus for most local buses, tickets for which are sold at a booth in the piazza (€1 for 1hr 30min, €1.50 for 2hr or €2.30 for a day’s travel); useful routes include #7 running up to the museums and cathedral, and #8 for the Roman amphitheatre. The FdS station, for slow trains to Arbatax (see p.971), is in Monserrato, north of the centre; you can get there by tram from Piazza Repubblica (bus #30 or #31 from Piazza Matteotti).

Accommodation Cágliari has a good selection of hotels and B&Bs, though availability may be restricted in high season, and single rooms are at a premium at all times. The biggest concentration of places is on or around the narrow Via Sardegna, running parallel to Via Roma. The nearest campsite is beyond Quartu Sant’Elena, a 45-minute bus ride east along the coast, where Pini e Mare (T 070.803.103, W www .piniemare.com; Easter to mid-Oct) has bungalows (3 ) as well as tent pitches in woods close to the sea.

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AeR Bundes Jack Via Roma 75 T 070.657.970, Wwww.hotelbjvittoria.it. Right across from the port, on the third ﬂoor (there’s a lift), this hotel’s spotless, a/c rooms, mostly en suite, have solid wood furnishings and antique tiled ﬂoors. The friendly host family also runs an adjacent B&B (2 ) and offers a ten-percent discount on presentation of this book. 2 Arcobaleno Via Sardegna 38 T 070.684.8325, W www.soggiorno arcobaleno.it. Clean and modern en-suite rooms with a/c, and some with exposed brickwork and wi-ﬁ. 2 Aurora Salita Santa Chiara 19 T 070.658.625, W www.hotelcagliariaurora.it.

This attractive pensione in a dilapidated palazzo behind Piazza Yenne has sunny, tastefully restored rooms, mostly en suite, with exposed brickwork. 2 Hostel Marina Piazza San Sepolcro T070.450.9709 or 070.670.818, W www .aighostels.com. Modern hostel in the heart of the Marina quarter, with dorms sleeping 4–6 (€22 per person), family rooms (€25 per person) and doubles (€30 per person). Non-members must pay for temporary membership (€3), but all prices include breakfast. La Terrazza sul Porto Largo Carlo Felice 36 T070.658.997 or 339.876.0155, W www .laterrazzasulporto.com. Funky, brightly coloured

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rooms with TVs and CD players are available in this easy-going B&B, with shared or private bathrooms. Bike rental and a laundry service are available. 2

Palmas Via Sardegna 14 T070.651.679, Ealbergo [email protected]. Very basic but centrally located on the main tourist strip, with showers in some rooms but no private WCs and no breakfast. 2

The City

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Almost all the sightseeing you will want to do in Cágliari is encompassed within the old Castello quarter, on the hill overlooking the port. The most evocative entry to this is from the monumental Bastione San Remy on Piazza Costituzione, whose nineteenth-century imperialist tone is tempered by the graffiti and weeds sprouting out of its walls. It’s worth the haul up the grandiose ﬂight of steps inside for Cágliari’s best views over the port and the lagoons beyond. Sunset is a good time to be here, or whenever you feel like a rest, its shady benches conducive to a snatched siesta. The Cattedrale and around

| Cágliari and around

From the Bastione, you can wander off in any direction to explore the intricate maze of Cágliari’s citadel, traditionally the seat of the administration, aristocracy and highest ecclesiastical offices. It has been little altered since the Middle Ages, though the tidy Romanesque facade of the Cattedrale (Mon–Sat 6.30am–noon & 4–8pm, Sun 8am–1pm & 4.30–8.30pm) in Piazza Palazzo is in fact a fake, added in the twentieth century in the old Pisan style. Inside, a pair of massive stone pulpits ﬂank the main doors: they were crafted as a single piece in around 1160 to grace Pisa’s cathedral, but were later presented to Cágliari along with the same sculptor’s set of lions, which now adorn the outside of the building. Other features of the cathedral include the ornate seventeenthcentury tomb of Martin II of Aragon (in the left transept), the aula capitolare (off the right transept), containing some good religious art, and, under the altar, a densely adorned crypt with carvings by Sicilian artists of the Sardinian saints. The cathedral stands in one corner of the square, to the left of which are the archbishop’s palace and – also eighteenth-century – the Palazzo Regio or Governor’s Palace (Mon–Sat 8.30am–2pm & 3–8pm, Sun 9am–1pm & 3–7pm; free). Used by the Piedmontese kings of Sardinia (though rarely inhabited by them), its stately rooms today hold meetings of the provincial assembly and occasional exhibitions. Behind the cathedral on Via Fossario, the Museo del Duomo (Sat & Sun 10am–1pm & 4.30–7.30pm; €4) is primarily worth seeing for two items: the ﬁfteenth-century Tríttico di Clemente VII, a painting of unknown authorship, but possibly a copy of a lost painting by Rogier van der Weyden, and the powerful Retablo della Croceﬁssione, a six-panelled polyptych attributed to Michele Cavaro (1517–84). At the far end of Piazza Palazzo a road leads into the smaller Piazza Indipendenza, location of the Torre di San Pancrazio, one of the main bulwarks of the city’s defences erected by Pisa after it had wrested the city from the Genoans in

Poetto

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Cágliari is not a beach-lover’s paradise by any means, but if you need a break and a swim, head to Poetto, a ﬁfteen-minute bus ride (#PF and #PQ) from Piazza Matteotti past Cágliari’s Sant’Elia football stadium. From the marina at its western end, the ﬁne sandy beach extends for some 6km, dotted with bars and public showers; some sections are lidos charging a standard daily rate for entry (about €3), with deckchairs and parasols available for rent, along with pedalos and windsurﬁng equipment.

1305 (though these did not prevent the Aragonese from walking in just ﬁfteen years later). It’s worth ascending the tower (Tues–Sun: May–Oct 9am–1pm & 3.30–7.30pm; Nov–April 9am–4.30pm; €4) for the magniﬁcent views seawards over the old town and port. From here it’s a short walk southwest to the city’s second watchtower, the Torre dell’Elefante (same hours and price), named after a small carving of an elephant on one side. Like the other tower, it has a half-ﬁnished look, with the side facing the old town completely open. The Cittadella dei Musei

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| Cágliari and around

Through the arch at the top of Piazza Indipendenza, Piazza dell’Arsenale holds a plaque recording the visit made by Cervantes to Cágliari in 1573, shortly before his capture and imprisonment by Moorish pirates. Across the square, the Cittadella dei Musei stands on the site of the former royal arsenal, housing the city’s principal museums. The main attraction is the Museo Archeologico (Tues–Sun 9am–8pm; €4, or €5 with Pinacoteca), a must for anyone interested in Sardinia’s past. The island’s most important Phoenician, Carthaginian and Roman ﬁnds are gathered here, including busts and statues of muses and gods, jewellery and coins, and funerary items from the sites of Nora and Tharros. But the museum’s greatest pieces are from Sardinia’s nuraghic culture, including a series of bronze statuettes, ranging from about thirty to ninety centimetres in height, spindly and highly stylized but packed with invention and quirky humour. The Cittadella’s other museums are also worth exploring. The smallest and most surprising is the Mostra di Cere Anatomiche (Tues–Sun 9am–1pm & 4–7pm; €1.50), which displays 23 gruesome wax models of anatomical sections crafted by the Florentine Clemente Susini in the nineteenth century. Further up, the Museo d’Arte Siamese (Tues–Sun: June–Sept 9am–1pm & 4–8pm; Oct–May 9am–1pm & 3.30–7.30pm; €4) holds a fascinating array of items from Southeast Asia – the collection of a local engineer who spent twenty years in the region – including Siamese paintings of Hindu and Buddhist legends, Chinese bowls and boxes, Japanese statuettes and a fearsome array of weaponry. Lastly, the excellent Pinacoteca (Tues–Sun 9am–8pm; €2, or €5 with Museo Archeologico) contains mostly Catalan and Italian religious art from the ﬁfteenth and sixteenth centuries. Look out in particular for the trio of panel paintings next to each other on the top level: the Retablo di San Bernardino by Joan Figuera and Rafael Thomas, Annunciation by Joan Mates, and Visitation by Joan Barcelo. The Roman amphitheatre and botanic gardens

From Piazza dell’Arsenale, Viale Buoncammino leads to Viale Fra Ignazio and the entrance to the Anﬁteatro Romano (Tues–Sat 9.30am–1.30pm, Sun April–Oct 9.30am–1.30pm & 3.30–5.30pm, Nov–March 10am–1pm; €4.30). Cut out of solid rock in the second century AD, the amphitheatre could hold the entire city’s population of about twenty thousand. Despite the decay, with much of the site cannibalized to build churches in the Middle Ages, you can still see the trenches for the animals, the underground passages and several rows of seats. Music, dance and theatre performances take place here in the summer months (tickets from the booth at the entrance). Turn left out of the amphitheatre and walk a few minutes down Viale Fra Ignazio da Laconi to the Orto Botanico (daily 8am–1.30pm, April–Oct Mon–Sat open till 7.30pm; €3), one of Italy’s most famous botanical gardens, with over ﬁve hundred species of Mediterranean and tropical plants – a shady spot on a sizzling afternoon. East of the centre, there’s little to see in Cágliari’s traffic-thronged new town beyond the banks and businesses, the one exception being the ﬁfth-century church

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of San Saturno (Tues & Fri 9am–1pm), Sardinia’s oldest and one of the most important surviving examples of early Christian architecture in the Mediterranean. Set in its own piazza off busy Via Dante, looking Middle Eastern with its palm trees and cupola, the basilica was erected on the spot where the Christian martyr Saturninus met his fate during the reign of Diocletian. Around the sturdy walls, which withstood severe bombardment during World War II, lie various pieces of ﬂotsam from the past: four cannonballs, fragments of Roman sarcophagi and slabs of stone carved with Latin inscriptions. The interior is bare of decoration, though it does hold an excavated necropolis.

Eating, drinking and nightlife

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Cágliari has a great range of restaurants, often with competitively priced tourist menus. For a morning coffee, afternoon tea or evening drink, Piazza Yenne makes a pleasant, relatively traffic-free alternative to the bustling cafés along Via Roma. In the summer months, the city’s nightlife shifts outside the centre to Poetto (see box, p.956; last bus back around midnight), with its blitz of bars, fairgrounds and ice-cream kiosks.

| Cágliari and around

Caffè degli Spiritu Bastione San Remy. This chic, loungey bar, with great views over the city, is a popular hangout on summer evenings, and there are DJs and live music until late at weekends. Caffè Libarium Nostrum Via Santa Croce 33. With tables outside right on the old city walls, affording marvellous views, this is a great place for a snack and a drink from early morning to late at night. Closed Mon in winter. Da Lillicu Via Sardegna 78 T 070.652.970. This Cágliari institution serves sensational antipasti, spaghetti (€6–10) and mainly ﬁshy Sard specialities (€12–25) on plain marble tables. It’s popular with locals, so you’ll need to book. Closed Sun lunch. Da Seraﬁno Via Sardegna 109 and Via Lépanto 6 T070.651.795. Honest, local dishes, informally

served, are extremely good value, with most dishes costing €5–10. Closed Thurs. L’Isola del Gelato Piazza Yenne 35. Cágliari’s top gelateria offers a staggering variety of ice-cream ﬂavours, as well as yoghurt with fresh fruit, making this a great breakfast stop too. Closed Oct–April. Quattro Mori Via Angioy 93 T070.650.269. One of Cágliari’s best restaurants, with a solid reputation for its endless courses of delectable Sard dishes, especially seafood. Despite relatively high prices (€10–15 for most dishes), there’s usually a full house and the atmosphere gets quite merry. Booking essential. Closed Sun dinner & Mon. Su Cumbidu Via Napoli 11 T070.660.017. This casual wood-beamed restaurant serves heaving plates of antipasti and mainly meaty Sardinian specialities. Set-price menus range €15–25.

Listings

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Bus operators ARST, for places throughout the island (T070.409.8324, Wwww.arst.sardegna.it); FdS, for Oristano, Sássari and Nuoro (T800.460.220, W www.ferroviesardegna.it); Turmo for Olbia and Santa Teresa di Gallura (T 0789.21.487, Wwww.turmotravel.it). Car rental Hertz, Piazza Matteotti 8 T 070.651.078 and airport T 070.240.037, W www.hertz.it; Ruvioli, Via La Playa 6 T 070.658.955 and airport T 070.240.323, W www.ruvioli.it; Sixt, airport T 070.212.045, W www.sixt.it. Consulates UK, Viale Colombo 160, Quartu Sant’Elena T070.828.628; Denmark, Via Roma 121 T070.668.208; Germany, Via R. Garzia 9

T070.307.229; Netherlands, Via Roma 101 T070.670.830. Ferries DiMaio, Via Riva di Ponente T848.151.818; Tirrenia, Via Riva di Ponente T892.123 or 02.2630.2803 from a mobile, Wwww.tirrenia.it. Festivals Sant’Efísio: May 1–4, including a procession to the saint’s church at Nora. Hospital Via Ospedale 54 T070.609.2589. Internet access Bips, Via Sicilia 23 (daily 8am–10.30pm) has internet access and phones with reasonable long-distance rates, while Lamarì, Via Napoli 43 (Mon–Sat 8.30am–9pm), is a more relaxed internet café.

Laundry Coin-operated lavanderia at Via Sicilia 20/A (daily 8am–10pm, last wash at 9pm; €4 for 6kg). Left luggage Tabacchi inside the bus station (Mon–Sat 7am–8pm, also Sun June–Sept; €0.50–1.50 per bag per hr). Pharmacy Farmacia Popolare, Largo Carlo Felice 39 (Mon–Fri 9am–1pm & 4.30–7.50pm, or 4.50–8.10pm in summer, Sat 9am–1pm). Nightopening pharmacies are listed on the door.

Post ofﬁce Piazza del Cármine (Mon–Fri 8am–6.50pm, Sat 8am–1.15pm). Taxis Rank at Piazza Matteotti; Radiotaxi 4 Mori (T070.400.101) operates 24hr. Train information FS T892.021, Wwww.ferrovie dellostato.it; FdS T 800.460.220, W www.ferrovie sardegna.it. Travel agents CTS, Via Balbo 12 T070.488.260; Viaggi Orrù, Via Baylle 111 T070.659.858.

Nora and the southwest coast

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| Cágliari and around

The easiest excursion you can make from Cágliari is to the waterside archeological site at NORA, 40km south of the city. In summer there’s a bus service direct to the site; the rest of the year the nearest stop is the village of PULA, 3km away and served by ARST buses running roughly hourly. It’s worth going to Pula anyway, as the village museum (daily 9am–8pm; €5.50 including site at Nora) gives a good explanation of the Nora ﬁnds. Founded by the Phoenicians and settled later by Carthaginians and Romans, Nora (daily 9am–dusk; €5.50 including museum) was abandoned around the third century AD, possibly as a result of a natural disaster. Now partly submerged under the sea, the remains on land include houses, Carthaginian warehouses, a temple, baths with some well-preserved mosaics, and a theatre which hosts summer performances. The rest is rubble, though its position on the tip of a peninsula gives it plenty of atmosphere. Outside the site stands the rather ordinary-looking eleventh-century church of Sant’Efísio, site of the saint’s martyrdom and the ultimate destination of Cágliari’s four-day May Day procession. Behind the church is a lovely sandy bay, lapped by crystal-clear water, but packed with day-trippers in season. There’s a ﬁne hotel 1km away on the road back to Pula, Su Gunventeddu (T 070.920.9092, W www .sugunventeddu.com; 5 ), just 100m from a good beach, with spacious, quiet rooms and a good restaurant (closed all Tues & Wed lunch). In Pula itself there’s the good-value, ﬂower-bedecked Quattro Mori at Via Cágliari 10 (T 070.920.9124; no credit cards; 1 ), and the chic Villa Madau at Via Nora 84 (T 070.924.9033, W www.villamadau.it; 4 ), with modern decor and a relaxing café-restaurant. There’s a choice of bars and restaurants with outdoor tables in and around Pula’s central Piazza del Popolo, including Eleonora at Via Nora 35 (T 070.920.9691; closed Wed in winter), a smartish restaurant-pizzeria with a narrow courtyard. The coast south holds two campsites, sheltered by pine woods right by the sea: Flumendosa (T 070.920.8364, W www.campingﬂumendosa.it) and Cala d’Ostia (T 070.921.470, W www.campingcaladostia.com; April–Oct). There are spectacular beaches all down this coast, especially around Chia, while the coastal road west of Capo Spartivento offers terriﬁc views over a deserted cliff-hung coastline, sheltering a few small sand beaches which are accessible on an infrequent bus service in summer.

Sant’Antíoco Measuring about 15km in length by 10km at its widest, the wedge-shaped SANT’ANTÍOCO is the larger of Sardinia’s southwest islands. The port area of the island’s main town (also called Sant’Antíoco) is just the other side of the causeway. The sheltered harbour made this an important base for the Carthaginians and the Romans, allowing them to command the whole of Sardinia’s southwest coast.

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Arrival, information and accommodation

Sant’Antíoco is served by one to two daily FMS buses from Cágliari, about a two-hour ride. The tourist office is in the lower part of town, on Piazza Repubblica (March–Oct Mon–Fri 10am–1pm & 5.30–9pm; Nov–Feb Mon–Fri 10am–1pm & 4–6.30pm; T 0781.82.031). Bikes and scooters can be rented nearby at Euromoto, Via Nazionale 57 (T 0781.840.907 or 347.880.3875), and there’s internet access at the Porticciolo, Lungomare Caduti di Nassiriya (Mon–Sat 10am–1pm & 5–9pm). Accommodation is on the scarce side, so if you’re thinking of staying, be sure to book ahead. The best hotels are on the main road through town. Hotels and campsite

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Cala di Seta Via Regina Margherita 61 T 0781.88.304, Wwww.hotelcaladiseta.it. Situated in the small port and resort of Calasetta, 10km north of town and the terminus for the bus from Cágliari, with cosy, wood-beamed rooms. 4 Corso Corso Vittorio Emanuele 32 T0781.800.265, Wwww.hoteldelcorso.it. The best hotels are on the main road through Sant’Antíoco; the Hotel del Corso

is sited above a pleasant bar and has a panoramic roof terrace. 3 Moderno Via Nazionale 82 T0781.83.105, Wwww .hotel-moderno-sant-antioco.it. Plain, modern rooms, wi-ﬁ access and a good restaurant. 3 Tonnara T0781.809.058, Wwww.camping tonnara.it. Sant’Antíoco’s sole campsite, open April–Sept, is on the western side of the island at the sheltered inlet of Cala Sapone, with caravans and chalets. 3

The island

In the upper part of the town, on Piazza Parrochia, the twelfth-century Basilica of Sant’Antíoco was built over Christian catacombs, which were in turn enlarged from an existing Carthaginian burial place; you can visit these dingy corridors, with authentic skeletons and reproductions of ceramic objects unearthed during excavation, on a guided tour (Mon–Sat 9am–noon & 3–6pm, Sun 10.30–11.15am & 3–6pm; €2.50). Sant’Antíoco’s archeological zone is signposted up a side road outside the church, less than a kilometre’s walk towards the sea. The most impressive site is that of an extensive Punic tophet, or burial site (daily April–Sept 9am–8pm; early Oct 9am–1pm & 3.30–8pm; late Oct to March 9am–1pm & 3–6pm; €4), dedicated to the Carthaginian goddess Tanit and once covering the entire hill where the old city now stands. The numerous urns scattered about here (mostly modern reproductions) were long believed to contain the ashes of sacriﬁced ﬁrst-born children, but this is now thought to have been Roman propaganda. Finds from here and from the Phoenician, Carthaginian and Roman cities are collected in the Museo Archeologico (same times as tophet; €6), at the bottom of the hill. Returning into the town on Via Necrópoli, you can use your ticket for the museum and archeological zone for the small but engrossing Museo Etnograﬁco (same times as tophet; €3): one capacious room crammed to the rafters with examples of rural culture – tools, agricultural implements, crafts, bread- and pasta-making equipment – all enthusiastically explained (in Italian) by a guide. A little further down the same road, the villaggio ipogeo or Punic necropolis (same times as tophet; €2.50) is also worth a glance, consisting of restored hypogea, or underground chambers that once held Carthaginian tombs and were later converted into plain dwellings by the local people. Nearby, the Forte Su Pisu (same times as tophet; €2.50), dating from 1812, was stormed by corsairs three years later, resulting in the massacre of the entire garrison. There’s not much to see here, but it’s been tidily restored and is a panoramic spot. Various combinations of ticket are available; one that includes all the sites above costs €13, available from any of the sites.

Eating and drinking

Sant’Antíoco’s lower town has a good range of bars and reasonably priced restaurants. For good seafood, try Il Passeggero on the seafront at Lungomare Vespucci 52 (T 0781.83.794), while you can get decent pizzas at Su Giuali, Via Nazionale 56, a popular birreria and pizzeria (T 0781.800.001; dinner only). For a snack or latenight drink, head for La Compagnia del Moro, Lungomare Colombo 83.

San Pietro

If you only have time to see one of Sardinia’s nuraghi (ancient stone dwellings) you should make it the biggest and most famous of them: Su Nuraxi, between Cágliari and Oristano. The majestic UNESCO-protected complex (daily 9am–dusk; €8) is a compelling sight, surrounded by the brown hills of the interior, and a good taste of the primitive grandeur of the island’s only indigenous civilization. The snag is access: the site lies ﬁfteen minutes’ walk west of the village of Barúmini, 50km north of Cágliari, to which there are only one to three daily ARST buses. Su Nuraxi’s dialect name means simply “the nuragh”, and not only is it the largest nuraghic complex on the island, but it’s also thought to be the oldest, dating probably from around 1500 BC. Comprising a bulky fortress surrounded by the remains of a village, Su Nuraxi was a palace complex at the very least – possibly even a capital city. The central tower once reached 21m (now shrunk to less than 15m), and its outer defences and inner chambers are connected by passageways and stairs. The whole complex is thought to have been covered with earth by Sards and Carthaginians at the time of the Roman conquest, which may account for its excellent state of preservation: if it weren’t for a torrential rainstorm that washed away the slopes in 1949, the site may never have been revealed at all. There are several accommodation possibilities in the village, the most appealing of Sa Lolla (T070.936.8419, Wwww.wels.it/salolla; 2), a rustic-style hotel on which is Via Cavour with a fantastic restaurant attached – worth the journey in itself. Barúmini also offers a choice of B&Bs, with a cluster near the post ofﬁce on Viale Umberto, all of a similar standard and similarly priced (1): try Casa del Rio at Via IV Novembre 24 (T070.936.8141 or 340.686.2858), or Casa Piras, Traversa Principessa Maria 15 (T070.936.8372 or 349.883.7015, Wweb.tiscali.it/casapiras; closed Nov, Jan & Feb).

| Cágliari and around

Visiting Su Nuraxi

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Ferries from Calasetta make the ﬁve-kilometre crossing to the ten-by-sevenkilometre island of SAN PIETRO roughly every 90 minutes (30min; around €21 for two people in an average-sized car). In summer, drivers should join the queue in good time – and be sure to get a return ticket. You can also reach the island from the small industrial port of Portoscuso, on the mainland (similar frequency and prices). San Pietro’s dialect is pure Piedmontese, two and a half centuries after the Savoyan king Carlo Emanuele III invited a colony of Genoans to settle here after their eviction from the island of Tabarca, near Tunisia. The settlers were later abducted and taken back to Tunisia in one of the last great pirate raids, but were returned once the ransom demands had been met. The island’s only town, elegant CARLOFORTE (named after the king), is prettier than Sant’Antíoco, with pastel seafront houses overlooking a palm-fringed port, and narrow balconied alleys beyond. It’s lively in summer, particularly during May and June’s La Mattanza tuna festival, and the island’s panoramic beauty spots and secluded coves are within easy reach.

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Practicalities

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The tourist office is opposite the port on Piazza Carlo Alberto III (Easter–Aug Mon 5–8pm, Tues–Sat 10am–1pm & 5–8pm; Sept–Easter Mon–Sat 10am–noon; T 0781.854.009, W www.prolococarloforte.it). The few places to stay are concentrated in Carloforte. Family-run B&B Il Ghiro (T 338.205.0553, W www.carloforte bedandbreakfast.it; no credit cards; 2 ) at Piazza Repubblica 7, the town’s liveliest square, has wood-beamed rooms, arty decor and organic breakfasts; alternatively, the Hieracon at Corso Cavour 62 (T 0781.854.028, W hotelhieracon.com; 3 ) – right from the port as you leave the ferry – has a stylish, old-world ambience. Availability is extremely limited in the holiday season, and it’s worth asking about rooms for rent at the tourist office. The island is renowned for its seafood, with tuna a speciality, and there are many good restaurants, particularly around the port: chichi Da Nicolo (T 0781.854.048; closed Mon except mid-July to mid-Sept, closed Oct–March), on the seafront at Corso Cavour 32, is good for a splurge, while A Al Tonno di Corsa, at Via Marconi 47 (T 0781.855.106; closed Mon Sept–June), is a friendly trattoria with sea views and outstanding ﬁsh dishes made to local recipes.

| Oristano and around

Oristano and around The province of Oristano roughly corresponds to the much older entity of Arborea, the medieval giudicato which championed the Sardinian cause in the struggle against the Spaniards. Then as now, ORISTANO was the region’s main town, and today it retains more than a hint of medieval atmosphere. The historic centre has a relaxed and elegant feel, and although it is 4km from the sea, the town is attractively surrounded by water, its lagoons and irrigation canals helping to make this a richly productive agricultural zone (the southern lagoon, the Stagno di Santa Giusta, is home to a local colony of Sardinia’s ﬂamingo population). Many people, however, come to Oristano simply to visit the nearby Sinis peninsula, home to the impressive Punic and Roman ruins of Tharros and a string of wild beaches.

Arrival and information Oristano’s train station is at the eastern end of town, a twenty-minute walk from the centre, also linked by local buses running every 20 to 35 minutes – buy tickets from the bar outside the station. The ARST bus station is on Via Cágliari, near the Duomo. The city’s tourist office is between Piazza Eleonora and the Duomo at Via Ciutadella de Menorca 14 (Mon–Fri 9am–1pm & 4–8pm or 3.30–7.30pm in winter, Sat 9am–noon; T 0783.70.621, W www.comune.oristano.it), while information for the whole province is available from the office at Piazza Eleonora 19 ( June & Sept daily 8.30am–1pm & 3–6.30pm; July & Aug daily 8.30am–8.30pm; Oct–May Mon–Thurs 9am–1pm & 3–6.30pm, Fri 9am–1pm; T 0783.368.3210, W www.oristanowestsardinia.it).

Accommodation

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You’ll need to book way ahead if you want to stay in Oristano during the Sa Sartiglia festivities (see box opposite). Most of the hotels are geared towards business travellers, but there’s a clutch of excellent B&Bs (none of which accepts credit cards) and a good-value hostel. The nearest campsites lie 6km away at Marina di Torre Grande, Oristano’s lido, accessible on frequent buses from Oristano’s bus and train stations.

The best equipped is Spinnaker (T 0783.22.074, W www.campingspinnaker.com; April–Oct), which has a private beach, a pool and bungalows (3 ). Piazza Roma, this modern complex houses both a hostel and a hotel, though as hostel accommodation is in doubles and family suites, there's little to distinguish between these (costing €25–35 per person) from the hotel rooms (2 ), except the latter have minibars and TVs. All rooms are clean, with en-suite bathrooms. Breakfast costs €2–5, meals are €15, and there's internet access and bikes available to rent. L’Arco Vico Ammirato 12, off Piazza Martiri T 0783.72.849 or 335.690.4240, W www .arcobedandbreakfast.it. This spotless B&B has wood-beamed rooms with terracotta ﬂoors, and a warm welcome. There’s a small terrace, too. 2

In the heart of the town is Oristano’s central symbol, the marble statue of Eleonora d’Arborea, presiding over the piazza named after her. Eleonora was the giudice of the Arborea region from 1384 to 1404 and is the best loved of Sardinia’s medieval rulers, having been the only one who enjoyed any success against the Aragonese invaders. She died from plague in 1404, though her most enduring legacy survived her by several centuries: the formulation of a Code of Laws, which was eventually extended throughout the island. Eleonora’s statue, carved in 1881, shows her bearing the scroll on which the laws were written, while inset panels depict her various victories. The narrow, pedestrianized Corso Umberto leads off Piazza Eleonora, from which an arched lane leads to Piazzetta Corrias, location of Oristano’s Antiquarium Arborense (daily 9am–2pm & 3–8pm; €3), one of Sardinia’s most absorbing museums, housed in a sixteenth-century merchant’s house. As well as rotating exhibitions of its extensive collection of nuraghic, Phoenician, Roman and Greek artefacts, there’s a collection of medieval and Renaissance art and scaled-down reconstructions of Oristano in 1290 and Roman Tharros. At one end of Corso Umberto, on Piazza Roma, pavement bars are clustered around the base of the San Cristóforo bastion, erected by the giudice Mariano II in

| Oristano and around

The Town

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Duomo Via Vittorio Emanuele 34 T 0783.778.061, W www.hotelduomo.net. Just across from the Duomo, this hotel is a modern refurbishment of a seventeenth-century building, with comfortable rooms set around a central courtyard. 4 Eleonora Piazza Eleonora d’Arborea 12 T 0783.70.435 or 347.481.7976, W www .eleonora-bed-and-breakfast.com. A cosy home-from-home in an atmospheric palazzo, parts of which date from medieval times. Rooms have en-suite bathrooms, and there’s wi-ﬁ access. 2 Hostel Rodia Via Sardegna 140 T 0783.251.881, W www.hostelrodia.it. Not exactly central, around 15 minutes’ walk from

Sa Sartiglia The rituals of Oristano’s ﬂamboyant Sa Sartiglia festival perhaps originated with knights on the Second Crusade, who in the eleventh century may well have imported the trappings of Saracen tournaments to Sardinia. In the period of the Spanish domination, similarly lavish feasts were held for the ruling knights. In time, these celebrations took on a more theatrical aspect and merged with the annual Carnival – the Sa Sartiglia is now a three-day festival that closes the Carnival period, ending on Shrove Tuesday. With all the participants masked and costumed, the whole affair exudes a drama unrivalled by Sardinia’s other festivals. The climax of proceedings, in Piazza Eleonora, is the joust after which the festival is named, when the mounted contestants attempt to lance a ring, or sartiglia, suspended in the air, charging towards it at full gallop.

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1291, once the fulcrum of Oristano’s fortiﬁcations. The only other survivor of the city’s ancient defences is the smaller Portixedda (“little gate”) tower, at the bottom of Via Mazzini, off Via Roma (Mon 4–6pm, Tues–Sun 10am–noon & 4–6pm; free), once the entrance to the city. Oristano’s Duomo stands in a spacious square up Via Duomo, which is behind Piazza Eleonora. Though started in the thirteenth century, most of the present building is a Baroque reworking, retaining only parts of the apses from its original construction. With the fourteenth-century bell tower topped by a multicoloured tiled cupola and a seminary next door, it forms an atmospheric ensemble.

Eating and drinking

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| Oristano and around 964

Most of Oristano’s restaurants are scattered on or around Piazza Roma. You might like to ﬁnish your meal with a glass of Oristano’s celebrated Vernaccia dessert wine. Cocco & Dessi Via Tirso 31 T 0783.252.648. This stylish restaurant has quality meat and seafood dishes, with mains at €11–15 and pizzas. La Torre Piazza Roma T0783.301.494. For downto-earth pizza and pasta at low prices head for La Torre; their speciality is pizza ai funghi porcini. Closed Mon.

Lolamundo Café Piazzetta Corrias. For daytime snacks or an evening drink, this cool, contemporary café has tables in this quiet little piazza. Closed Sun. Trattoria Gino Via Tirso 13 T0783.71.428. This reliable restaurant features traditional Sardinian dishes such as ravioli sardi (made with butter and sage) and sebadas (warm, cheese-ﬁlled pastries topped with honey). Closed Sun.

Tharros About 20km west of Oristano, the Punic and Roman ruins at Tharros are served by ﬁve ARST buses daily ( July & Aug only; 25min). Like Nora (see p.959), Tharros is pitched on a limb of land surrounded by water, though in this case it’s a clenched ﬁst, dominated by a sturdy Spanish watchtower. The peninsula, which forms the northern tip of the mouth of the Golfo di Oristano, was settled by Phoenicians as early as 800 BC. The site (daily 9am to 1hr before sunset; €5, including museum at Cabras; see below) consists mostly of Punic and Roman houses arranged on a grid of streets, of which the broad-slabbed Decumanus Maximus is the most impressive. But the things you’ll notice immediately on entering the site are the solitary remnants of a ﬁrst-century-BC Roman temple, with only two of its four Corinthian columns still upright. Like Nora, there is much more submerged underwater, as a result of subsidence. Near the site stands the ﬁfth-century church of San Giovanni di Sinis, which vies with Cágliari’s San Saturno for the title of oldest Christian church in Sardinia. Further back up the road towards Oristano (signposted off the Tharros road) is the sanctuary of San Salvatore, whose main interest is in a subterranean fourthcentury chamber dedicated to Mars and Venus, complete with faded frescoes of Venus, Cupid and Hercules – ask the custodian to let you see it. The sanctuary forms the focus of a wild festival on the ﬁrst weekend of September, the main feature of which is a race run at dawn to the village of Cabras, 8km away, by the town’s boys. Barefoot and clad in white shirts and shorts, they bear aloft the statue of San Salvatore in a re-enactment of a frantic rescue mission undertaken four centuries ago to save the saint from Moorish attackers. There are regular ARST buses (1–2 hourly, 5–10 on Sun) from Oristano to Cabras, where the Museo Civico at Via Tharros 121 (daily 9am–1pm & 4–8pm, 3–7pm in winter; €3, or €5 including Tharros), on the banks of the lagoon near the southwest entrance to town, has shelves full of ﬁnds from Tharros.

Bosa BOSA is a picture-perfect town of pastel houses huddled around a hilltop castle on the banks of the Temo river, 62km north of Oristano (2 hours by bus). Its attractions are low-key – wandering the mazy cobbled lanes of the medieval Sa Costa district up to the castle is probably the best way to spend your time – but it makes a pleasant, if sleepy place to hole up for a few days. Most of the tourist activity is concentrated in the less attractive but livelier Bosa Marina a few kilometres west, where a crescent of sandy beach is backed by hotels, restaurants and bars.

Arrival, information and accommodation

Bainas On the road to San Pietro T 339.209.0967 or 338.306.0004, W www .agriturismobainasbosa.com. A 10-minute walk from Bosa, this attractive agriturismo is a peaceful spot surrounded by ﬁelds and orchards, with rooms giving onto a veranda, and an excellent restaurant (see p.966). No credit cards. 2 Corte Fiorita Via Lungo Temo de Gasperi 45 T 0785.377.058, W www.albergo-diffuso.it. Divided between three buildings, the main part of this hotel overlooks the river. It has plenty of atmosphere, with opulent trimmings and bedrooms with balconies, internet connection and riverside views (for a supplement). 3 Ostello Malaspina Via Sardegna 1, Bosa Marina T 346.236.3844, W www.valevacanze.com. One of Sardinia’s rare youth hostels, this is a quiet,

| Bosa

Hotels and hostels

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Buses stop at Piazza Zanetti, a short walk from Bosa’s centre. Bosa Marina holds the terminal for the Trenino Verde, a narrow-track tourist train to Macomer, 30km inland, which leaves from here in the summer months (W www.treninoverde .com). There’s currently no tourist office, though one may open in Bosa Marina – ask at the ticket office for the Trenino Verde, on the main Via C. Colombo. In Bosa, bikes and kayaks are available for rent from Pischedda Noleggio, in a hut at the northern end of the old bridge (May–Oct; T 339.489.0105), and there’s internet access at Via Gioberti 12 (Mon–Sat 9am–1pm & 4.30–8pm). Most of Bosa’s hotels require full or half-board in season. There’s more choice – though far less character – in Bosa Marina. modern place which also serves cheap meals. Dorms €16, rooms 1 S’Ammentu Via del Cármine 55 T 0785.376.180 or 348.721.8492, Wwww.sammentu.com. Old-town lodging on four ﬂoors (there's a lift), with small but comfortable en-suite rooms, full of character, with a/c and TVs. 2 Sa Pischedda Via Roma 8 T0785.373.065, Wwww.hotelsapischedda.it. At the southern end of the old bridge, this ﬁne old palazzo has a grand staircase leading up to attractive, a/c rooms, some with balcony. There’s an excellent restaurant, too. 3 Stella Maris Via C. Colombo 11, Bosa Marina T0785.375.162, W nuke.stellamarisbosa.it. The best of Bosa Marina’s fairly uninspiring hotels is a friendly place near the beach. All rooms have en-suite bathrooms. 3

The Town Bosa’s low-key attractions can easily be explored on foot, and it’s a pleasant place for a wander. At the northern end of the old bridge, the cathedral lies at the bottom of the cobbled Corso Vittorio Emanuele, Bosa’s main drag running parallel to the river, and cutting through Sa Piana, the lower town. To the north, the medieval lanes of Sa Costa, or upper town, struggle up the hill towards the castle, erected by the Malaspina family in 1122. Take any alley leading up from the Corso, and keep climbing for about twenty minutes to reach the Castello Malaspina (April–June daily 10am–1pm & 3.30–6.30pm; July daily 10am–1pm & 4–7.30pm; Aug daily 10am–8pm; Sept to mid-Oct daily 10am–1pm & 3.30–6pm; mid- to late Oct 10am–1pm & 3–5pm; Nov–March

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Sat & Sun 10am–1pm; check hours at T 333.544.5675; €3) – there’s also a road skirting the back of town that leads to the castle gate. Within the walls, the only building standing is the church of Nostra Signora di Regnos Altos, containing some rare Catalan frescoes dating from around 1300. The view from the ramparts takes in town, river and sea, and you can pick out Bosa’s former cathedral of San Pietro, Sardinia’s oldest Romanesque church, built in the eleventh century, with a Gothic facade added by Cistercian monks a couple of hundred years later. For a closer look, follow the country road running parallel to the south bank of the river from the old bridge eastwards for about 2km (April–Oct Tues & Thurs 9.30am–1pm, Wed 3.30–6pm, Fri–Sun 9.30am–1pm & 3.30–6pm; call to check as times may vary, and call about winter opening; T 333.544.5675; €2).

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| Nuoro and around

In the opposite direction, BOSA MARINA lies 5km downstream of the old bridge, on what was the town’s original site before its inhabitants shifted to a more defensible position. Today it is a conventional minor resort with a small choice of hotels and bars and a broad swathe of sandy beach. Across the river, you can also swim from the rocks at the mouth of the Temo, or further north off the beautiful rocky coast accessible from the Alghero road. This undeveloped, highly panoramic stretch of coast makes a wonderfully scenic setting for a drive and is one of the last habitats in Sardinia of the griffon vulture.

Eating and drinking In Bosa, the Sa Pischedda hotel (see p.965) has a renowned but reasonably priced restaurant with outdoor seating in summer. The Bainas agriturismo (see p.965) serves delicious and wholesome organic and vegetarian dishes using its own home-grown produce, but you’ll need to call ahead. Alternatively, the rustic but elegant Borgo Sant’Ignazio, in an alley above the Corso, Via Sant’Ignazio 33 (T 0785.374.129), offers local specialities of a meatier nature, with main courses at €12–16. For snacks and refreshments, avoid the pricey bars on the main Corso in favour of Bar Mouse on Piazza Zanetti (closed Sun), a wine bar and café with terrace seating.

Nuoro and around

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“There is nothing to see in Nuoro: which to tell the truth, is always a relief. Sights are an irritating bore,” wrote D.H. Lawrence of the town he visited in 1921, though he was impressed by its appearance to him “as if at the end of the world, mountains rising sombre behind”. NUORO’s superb backdrop – beneath the soaring peak of Monte Ortobene and opposite the sheer and stark heights of Monte Corrasi – is still its main draw, and it makes a useful transport junction and base for excursions. The last century has witnessed few changes, bar an unsightly accretion of apartment blocks and administrative buildings. Nuoro can lay claim to a distinguished literary heritage, however: Sardinia’s best-known poet, Sebastiano Satta (1867–1914), was Nuorese, as was the author Grazia Deledda (1871–1936), who won the Nobel Prize for Literature in 1926 in recognition of a writing career devoted to recounting the day-to-day trials and passions of local villagers. Nuoro’s biggest annual festival, the Festa del Redentore, is one of the most vibrant events on the island’s calendar, taking place over the last ten days of August, when enthusiastic dancing and singing in dialect culminate with a costumed procession to Monte Ortobene (see p.968).

Arrival, information and accommodation

Nuoro’s old quarter is the most appealing part of town, spread around pedestrianized Corso Garibaldi, along which a buzzing passeggiata injects a bit of life into the place. Just off here, on Via Satta, is MAN (Museo d’Arte Nuoro; Tues–Sun 10am–1pm & 4.30–8.30pm; €3), a superb collection of twentiethcentury and contemporary art from the whole island, with a preponderance of local artists. Displayed on four ﬂoors, the works are refreshingly diverse, and there are also temporary exhibitions of modern Italian art. At the top of the Corso, turn right past the Duomo and along Via Mereu to reach the impressive Museo della Vita e delle Tradizioni Popolari Sarde (daily: mid-June to Sept 9am–8pm; Oct to mid-June 9am–1pm & 3–7pm; €3), which holds Sardinia’s most comprehensive range of local costumes, jewellery, masks, carpets and other handicrafts, as well as traditional musical instruments from around the island. Turn left at the eastern end of the Corso and up Via Deledda for the Casa di Grazia Deledda (same hours as ethnographic museum; free), the restored home of Nuoro’s literary star, displaying various photos and mementoes. Turn south down Via Deledda to ﬁnd the Museo Archeologico (Tues & Thurs 9am–1pm & 3–5pm, Wed, Fri & Sat 9am–1pm; free), accessed from Via Manno or Via Asproni, which takes in everything from rocks and skulls to carved vases, neolithic jewellery and nuraghic art.

| Nuoro and around

The Town

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You can reach Nuoro in an hour and a quarter on the narrow-gauge FdS line from Macomer, a stop on the main train line from Cágliari, or on an FdS bus from Cágliari or Sássari. Nuoro’s train station is a twenty-minute walk from the centre of town along Via La Mármora, where frequent city buses stop (buy tickets from the shop inside the station). ARST and FdS buses stop at Via Sardegna, ten minutes’ walk south of the station. The main tourist office is at Piazza Italia 19, on the edge of the old quarter ( June–Sept daily 9am–7pm; Oct–May Mon–Fri 8.30am–1.30pm & 3–5.30pm; T 0784.238.878). Nuoro has few accommodation options; consider staying outside town on Monte Ortobene or even further aﬁeld in Oliena (see p.968 for both). In town, the Grillo, near the ethnographic museum at Via Monsignor Melas 14 (T 0784.38.678, W www.grillohotel.it; 2 ), is one of the cheaper hotels – a rather charmless businessclass place. You may prefer one of the town’s B&Bs (no credit cards): Silvia e Paolo, right in the centre of town at Corso Garibaldi 58 (T 0784.31.280 or 328.921.2199, W www.silviaepaolo.it; 1 ), has spotless, modern rooms with wi-ﬁ and a terrace, while no-frills Giada, near the tourist office at Via Ballero 32 (T 338.853.5759, W www.giadabb.it; 2 ), has plain rooms with or without private facilities.

Eating and drinking Many of the town’s restaurants feature regional specialities. Bar Nuovo Piazza Mazzini 1. At the top of Corso Garibaldi, this is a good place for breakfast or a lunchtime snack, with outdoor tables. Café San Juan Piazza San Giovanni. The place to head for evening drinks, with cosy nooks in various rooms. Il Rifugio Via Mereu 28 T0784.232.355. The best choice for regional specialities, Il Rifugio has main courses at €8–16 and delicious pizzas. Closed Wed.

Su Nugoresu Piazza San Giovanni 9 T0784.258.017. A pleasant trattoria in a pretty piazza with tables outside in summer. Closed Mon in winter. Tascusi Via Aspromonte 13 T0784.37.287. This arty option off the top end of the Corso has good ﬁxed-priced deals. Closed Sun.

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Monte Ortobene

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Between mid-June and mid-September bus #8 runs every twenty minutes or so (with a much reduced service in winter) from Nuoro’s Piazza Vittorio Emanuele up to the summit of Monte Ortobene, 8km away, from where there are striking views over the gorge separating Nuoro from the Supramonte massif. This is the venue for Nuoro’s Festa del Redentore at the end of August, when a procession from town weaves up the mountain to the bronze statue of the Redeemer at the top (955m). The statue makes an excellent vantage point, with dizzying views down to the valley ﬂoor. The woods are perfect for walks and picnics, and there are possibilities for horseriding at Farcana, signposted left near the top, where there’s also a grand open-air public swimming pool open in summer. There’s an excellent B&B on the mountain, the friendly A Casa Solotti (T 0784.33.954 or 328.602.8975, W www.casasolotti.it; no credit cards; 1 ), just after the Farcana turn-off, offering wonderful mountain views and great breakfasts; ring ahead for directions or a pick-up from Nuoro.

| The interior and the east coast

The interior and the east coast Though little travelled by tourists, Sardinia’s interior is in many ways the most interesting part of the island, dominated by thick forests and rugged peaks. The local inhabitants have retained a ﬁerce sense of independence and loyalty to their traditions, and this is especially true in the ring of the once almost impenetrable Monti del Gennargentu, centred on the island’s highest peak, La Mármora (1834m). The range forms the core of the Barbágia region, called Barbaria by the Romans who, like their successors, were never able to subdue it, foiled by the guerrilla warfare for which its hidden recesses proved ideal. More recently, the isolation and economic difficulties of the Barbágia’s villages led to widescale emigration and, among those who stayed behind, a wave of sheeprustling, internecine feuding and the kidnapping of wealthy industrialists or their families that continued until the last decades of the twentieth century. Nowadays the Barbágia has huge appeal to outdoors enthusiasts, particularly mountain hikers – if you’re interested, ask at Oliena’s tourist office for routes and lists of guides (see opposite). Sardinia’s long eastern seaboard is highly developed around the resorts of Siniscola and Posada, but further south it preserves its desolate beauty, virtually untouched apart from a couple of isolated spots around Cala Gonone, and, further down, around the small town of Tortolì, in the province of Ogliastra.

Oliena and Tíscali

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The multicoloured rooftops of OLIENA, 12km southeast of Nuoro (buses roughly every two hours), are visible across the valley. Though famed as the haunt of bandits until relatively recent times, the village prefers its reputation as the producer of one of the island’s best wines, Nepente – a variety of the prized Cannonau – a dry, almost black concoction that turns lighter and stronger over time. The best place to sample it is the Cantina Oliena winery, at Via Nuoro 112 (Mon–Fri 8.30am–12.30pm & 3–7.30pm, Sat 8.30am–noon). Oliena lies on the slopes of Monte Corrasi, a dramatically rugged limestone elevation which forms part of the Supramonte massif and rises to 1363m. There are numerous organized excursions you can make around its various caves and crags, the most famous of which is to the remote Valle Lanaittu and the nuraghic

village of Tíscali (daily: May–Sept 9am–7pm; Oct–April 9am–5pm; €5), spectacularly sited within a vast mountain-top cavern, a half-day trip from Oliena. All hikes should be accompanied by a guide, which can be arranged through Oliena’s helpful tourist office on the main drag at Corso Deledda 32 (Mon–Sat 9am–1pm & 4–7pm; T 0784.286.078). There’s internet access here too, and bilingual staff can also book accommodation in the area: the best options are B&B Santa Maria at Corso Deledda 76 (T 0784.287.278 or 328.117.8551, W www.bbsantamaria .it; 1 ), with a terrace, comfortable rooms and private bathrooms; CiKappa, Via M. Luther King (T 0784.288.721, W www.cikappa.it; 2 ), a functional hotel further up the hill, with a lively pizzeria below; and Cooperativa Turistica Enis, up a steep hill 3km south in Località Maccione (T 0784.288.363, W www.coopenis.it; 2 ), where there are also pitches for camping and a superb restaurant with lofty views over the valley.

Dorgali Renowned for its Cannonau wines, DORGALI is also known for its craftwork and as a starting point for excursions into the mountains, to places such as Tíscali (see above). The tourist office is at Via Lamarmora 108 (Mon–Fri 9am–1pm & 4–8pm, July & Aug also Sat & Sun same hours; T 0784.96.243, W www.dorgali .it), and there’s a good hotel signposted off the SS125 a couple of kilometres south of town, the Sant’Elene (T 0784.94.572, W www.hotelsantelene.it; 3 ), which also has a great restaurant.

| The interior and the east coast

Some 18km south of Oliena, connected by frequent buses from Nuoro, ORGÓSOLO is stuck with its label of erstwhile bandit capital of the island. The village’s most infamous son, Graziano Mesina – the so-called “Scarlet Rose” – won local hearts in the 1960s by robbing from the rich to give to the poor and only killing for revenge against those who had betrayed him. Roaming at will through the mountains, even granting interviews to reporters and television journalists, he was eventually captured; after forty years behind bars, he was freed in 2004 and returned to live in Orgósolo. Today, the only traces of the area’s violent past are in its vivid, graffiti-style murals, with a concentration in Orgósolo, some covering whole buildings. Portraying village culture and history, many of the paintings are peopled with gun-toting locals and illustrate the oppression of the landless by the landowners.

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Orgósolo

Hikes from Cala Gonone and Dorgali South of Cala Gonone lies one of Sardinia’s last truly untouched tracts, a majestic mountain landscape, largely devoid of human life, cut through by the Flumineddu valley and, high above it, the highly panoramic SS125. There are several half- or full-day hikes which can be made here, for example following the coast south from Cala Gonone to the beaches at Cala Luna and Cala Sisine. From Cala Sisine, the route wanders inland up the Sisine canyon, as far as the solitary church of San Pietro, from where a track leads down to Baunei. Dorgali’s tourist ofﬁce (see above) can supply a list of guides for the Sisine canyon, for Tíscali (see above), and for the Gorroppu gorge, one of southern Europe’s deepest canyons. Even for shorter hikes, you’ll need hardy footwear with a secure grip and ankle support, and preferably some protection for your head against bumps and falls: the boulders can be extremely slippery, especially when wet.

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Cala Gonone

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| The interior and the east coast

Some 10km east of Dorgali, the small port of CALA GONONE is reached by heading south on the SS125 and turning left into the long tunnel through the rock wall, from which the road plunges down to the bay. ARST buses come this way from Nuoro (3–8 daily; 1hr 10min) and Dorgali (4–10 daily; 25min). Beautifully sited at the base of the 900-metre-high mountains, this once tiny settlement was until recently accessible only by boat. Now hotels and villas dominate the scene, though these have not spoilt the sense of isolation, and it is worth a visit if only to take advantage of the numerous boat tours to the secluded beaches up and down the coast. Among the best are Cala Luna and Cala Sisine, though if you are here for a short time you would do well to choose a tour that combines pauses at these swimming stops with exploration of the deep grottoes that pit the shore. Most famous of these is the Grotta del Bue Marino, formerly home to a colony of Mediterranean monk seals, or “sea ox”. It’s among Sardinia’s most spectacular caves, a luminescent gallery ﬁlled with remarkable natural sculptures, resembling organ pipes, wedding cakes and even human heads – one of them is known as Dante, after a fondly imagined resemblance to the poet. Boat trips from Cala Gonone cost around €17 including entry to the grotto. Tickets for the various excursions are sold at the port, and there’s a tourist office on Viale Bue Marino (daily: Easter–June & mid-Sept to Oct 9am–1pm & 3–7pm; July to mid-Sept 9am–9pm; Nov–Easter 9am–noon; T 0784.93.696, W www.dorgali .it). Best of the hotels here are the bougainvillea-covered Cala Luna, on Lungomare Palmasera (T 0784.93.133, W www.hotelcalaluna.com; Easter–Nov; 4), with direct access to the beach, and lively Pop (T 0784.93.185, W www.hotelpop.it; 4 ), by the harbour, also with sea views. There’s also a well-equipped but crowded campsite a brief walk up from the port and near the tourist office (T 0784.93.165, W www .campingcalagonone.it; April–Oct). There’s a good range of places to eat in town, including a few pricey gourmet seafood parlours along the waterfront. Less expensive options include the excellent restaurant at the Pop hotel and the trattoria attached to the San Francisco hotel on Via Magellano (T 0784.920.030), serving wonderful ravioli, gnocchi, seafood and pizzas (closed Tues daytime in winter), while Roadhouse Blues (T 0784.93.187), overlooking the sea on Lungomare Palmasera, has tasty pizzas, ﬁsh dishes, cocktails and beers. Up from the port at Piazza Andrea Doria, Su Recreu serves the town’s best ice cream as well as sandwiches and snacks till late. The last two places close in winter.

The Gennargentu massif

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The central region of the Barbágia holds the Gennargentu chain of mountains – the name means “silver gate”, referring to the snow that covers them every winter. Here, you’ll ﬁnd the island’s only skiing facilities on Monte Bruncu Spina, Sardinia’s second-highest peak (1829m). In spring and summer, you can explore this and other areas on mountain treks, best undertaken in the company of guides for which the tourist office at Nuoro can supply a list. The nearby settlements make useful bases for both skiers and trekkers, for example FONNI, 13km due south of Mamoiada and at 1000m the island’s highest village. Try to coincide your visit with one of Fonni’s costumed festivals, principally the Madonna dei Mártiri, on the Monday following the ﬁrst Sunday in June, and on San Giovanni’s day on June 24. Of the hotels here, try Sa Orte, Via Roma 14 (T 0784.58.020, W www.hotelsaorte.it; 2 ), an elegantly restored granite building with period trappings and its own restaurant.

Other feasible bases for the area include TONARA, about 30km southwest of Fonni, where Il Castagneto is an independent hostel (T 0784.610.005; Easter–Oct; €15), signposted on the northern edge of the village, with ample dormitory space as well as en-suite doubles (1 ). Hostellers and others can enjoy wonderful views over wooded slopes from the outdoor tables at the pizzeria here (closed Tues except Aug). Finally, ARITZO, 15km south, has several hotels: try the old-fashioned but comfortable Moderno, at the top of the village on Viale Kennedy (T 0784.629.229, W www.hotelmodernoaritzo.it; 1 ), with a small garden and restaurant.

Tortolì and Arbatax

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| Olbia

South of Cala Gonone and the majestic Gorroppu gorge the SS125 descends steeply to TORTOLÌ, provincial capital of Ogliastra. Some 5km inland, ferries ply from the fairly nondescript port of ARBATAX to Genoa and Civitavécchia. The small beach here is famous for its red rocks, but there are better beaches outside town – north around Santa Maria Navarrese and south at Lido Orrì. There’s a seasonal tourist office at Arbatax station, by the port (mid-June to mid-Sept Wed–Fri 10am–noon & 4.30–7.30pm; T 366.300.7301) that has information on sea excursions, including to the Grotta del Bue Marino (see opposite) for €30–50, while Tortolì’s Pro Loco is at Via Mazzini 7 ( June to mid-Sept Mon– Sat 9am–12.30pm & 5.30–8pm; T 366.300.7423, W www.turismo.ogliastra.it). Ferry tickets are available from the Tirrenia office near the port, on your right as you head towards the station (Mon–Fri 9am–1pm & 4–7pm, Sat 9am–1pm; T 0782.667.067). Frequent daily buses connect Cágliari and Nuoro with Tortolì, which, along with Arbatax, is also on the FdS narrow-gauge Trenino Verde railway (W www .treninoverde.com). The train follows an inland route to Cágliari, with a change at Mandas; the full journey from the coast to Cágliari takes six to seven dawdling hours (Wed–Mon mid-June to mid-Sept only). A frequent summer shuttle bus connects Tortolì, Arbatax, Lido Orrì and Porto Frailis. There’s little to detain you here, but if you need to stay in Arbatax, book in at the Splendor on Viale Arbatax (T 0782.623.037, W www.hotelsplendor.com; 2 ), opposite the Esso station on the other side of the rail tracks. Among the local campsites, try Telis at Porto Frailis (T 0782.667.140, W www.campingtelis.com), which has bungalows and caravans to rent by the week (3 ). In Santa Maria Navarrese, there’s a great unofficial hostel on Via Pedra Longa, Ostello Bellavista (T 0782.614.039, W www.ostelloinogliastra.com; 3 ), though it’s actually more like an informal lodge, where each of the plain white doubles has private bathroom and a view over the sea. As for restaurants, there are a few places in Arbatax itself, but the Porto Frailis district is a better choice, where Il Faro, overlooking the beach, has a good choice of ﬁsh (T 0782.667.499; closed dinner Oct–March).

Olbia The largest town in Sardinia’s northeastern wedge, OLBIA owes its recent phenomenal growth to the huge inﬂux of tourists bound for one of the Mediterranean’s loveliest stretches of coast, the Costa Smeralda (see p.974). Awash with traffic and ugly apartment blocks, Olbia is the least Sardinian of all the island’s towns. Its port and airport, however, make it an inevitable stop for some, and there’s a ﬁrst-class museum, plus numerous bars and restaurants, usually abuzz with tourists and sailors.

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| Olbia

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Olbia’s airport (W www.olbiairport.it) is connected by buses #2 and #10 every 20 to 30 minutes until 8pm, which take just ten minutes to reach the central Piazza Regina Margherita (tickets €0.80 from the ticket machine in the terminal, €1.30 on board). Taxis cost about €20. There is a summer-only bus service (5–12 daily) from the airport to the resorts of Arzachena, Palau and Santa Teresa di Gallura, so you can avoid Olbia completely if you’re bound for the beach-chequered coast or for Corsica. Ferries (see box, p.953) dock at the island of Isola Bianca, connected to the mainland by a two-kilometre causeway; twice-hourly buses (#9) run into town (€0.80 from the information office, or €1.30 on board), or you can take one of the infrequent trains to Olbia’s main station. The port holds all the main ferry agents, selling tickets for Tirrenia, Moby Lines and Sardinia Ferries services. Sardinia and some Tirrenia services leave from Golfo Aranci, 15km up the coast (6 buses daily summer only, or regular trains). Book early for all departures. Trains for Sássari and Cágliari run several times daily from the station just off Corso Umberto, while the stop for ARST buses is on Corso Vittorio Veneto, just past the level crossing at the bottom of Corso Umberto. Summer-only Sun Lines buses for Porto Cervo leave from Piazza Crispi, on the seafront.

The tourist office, at Via Nanni 39 (Mon, Wed, Fri & Sat 8am–2pm, Tues & Thurs 8am–2pm & 3–6pm; T 0789.557.732, W www.olbiaturismo.it), is supplemented in summer by one or more kiosks situated in the centre (locations vary), open daily until late. There are additional information desks at the airport (daily 8/8.30am–11/11.30pm; T 0789.563.444) and the port (daily 6am–12.40pm & 2.30–8pm; reduced hours in winter; T 0789.24.696), where there is also a leftluggage office. There’s internet access at InterSmeraldo, Via Porto Romano 6/B, off the Corso.

Accommodation

friendly B&B, just off Olbia’s main street, has two brightly coloured rooms with private bathrooms. No credit cards. 2 Porto Romano Via Nanni 2 T349.192.7996, Wwww.bedandbreakfastportoromano.it. Central but quiet B&B, offering doubles with private or en-suite bathrooms, a “bedsitter” including cooking facilities, and a patio. No credit cards. 2

| Olbia

Cavour Via Cavour 22 T 0789.204.033, W www .cavourhotel.it. One of Olbia’s cheaper hotels, this tasteful renovation of a traditional building on a central alley has smart, simply furnished rooms. 2 Gallura Corso Umberto 145 T0789.24.648. This old-fashioned hotel has plain, en-suite rooms and rustic trimmings. Breakfasts are superb, and there's a ﬁrst-class restaurant. 2 Pisolo Via Fiume d’Italia 6 T0789.209.115 or 340.243.0845, E [email protected]. This

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Olbia has several good, central, though fairly pricey, hotels. One of the nearest campsites is at Località Cugnana (T 0789.33.184, W www.campingcugnana.it; mid-March to mid-Oct), 12km north of town, with a pool and bungalows for weekly rental (2); it’s also the closest campsite to the Costa Smeralda, and consequently can get crowded. In summer, Sun Lines buses for Porto Cervo stop right outside.

The Town Olbia’s chief attraction is the Museo Archeologico (Thurs–Tues 9.30am–1pm & 5.30–8.30pm; free), a fortress-like construction on a miniature island by the port. Displays range from Proto-Sard prehistory through to the Carthaginian, Greek and Roman eras, and include a magniﬁcent terracotta head of Hercules wearing a lion’s mane – a Roman copy of a Greek original. Check with the tourist office for current opening hours and price, which are likely to change. Otherwise, the town’s only other item of historical interest is the little basilica of San Símplicio (daily 6.30am–1pm & 3.30–8pm), on the street of the same name. Part of the great Pisan reconstruction programme of the eleventh and twelfth centuries, the simple granite structure has three aisles separated by pillars and columns recycled from Roman constructions – even the stoup for the holy water was formerly an urn that held cremated ashes. The church is the venue for Olbia’s biggest festa, six days of processions, costumed dancing and ﬁreworks around May 15, commemorating San Símplicio’s martyrdom in the fourth century.

Eating and drinking Olbia has plenty of restaurants, catering to the huge numbers of tourists that pass through here. The cafés and bars on Piazza Margherita are good for coffees, fresh cornetti and drinks, with seating both inside and out. Antica Trattoria Via delle Terme 1 T0789.24.053. Popular place with a buzzing atmosphere, a tasty array of antipasti, and pizzas. There are good-value tourist menus (€15–25), and a small garden for

eating alfresco. Closed all Mon, and Sun lunch in summer. Gallura See above. One of the top spots in the whole region to sample delicious,

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authentic gallurese dishes, with a huge menu and fairly high prices (most meat dishes around €18). The soups and antipasti are a joy, and there’s an excellent wine list too. Closed Mon. Il Gámbero Via Lamármora 6 T0789.23.874. Locals and tourists alike appreciate the rustic trimmings and hangings at this centrally located restaurant. The fare is mainly seafood, with

good antipasti including pesce spada affumicata (smoked swordﬁsh). Mains are €10–15, and there’s a ﬁxed-price menu (€23). Closed Mon in winter. La Tasca Via Cavour 3 T0789.22.654. Handy spot for a daytime sit-down and snack, or to while away the evening, when it offers pastas and tapas as well as cocktails. There are occasional DJs and live music, and it stays open late. Closed Sun daytime.

The Costa Smeralda and around S ARDI NI A

| The Costa Smeralda and around

Long a magnet for Italy’s glitziest celebrities, the ﬁve-star development of the Costa Smeralda, built in the 1960s, helped to transform the economy of the entire island. A coastline this beautiful inevitably comes at a price, however: budget accommodation is virtually nonexistent, while the high-end hotels that cram this corner of the island are mostly soulless. Arzachena or Cannigione are both cheaper bases from which to explore the area. The Costa Smeralda begins about 12km north of Olbia and is deﬁned as the ten-kilometre strip between the gulfs of Cugnana and Arzachena. Although strict rules were imposed to prevent overzealous development – you won’t see any multistorey hotels, advertising hoardings or fast-food restaurants – the Costa lacks any genuine ﬁshing villages and the luxurious holiday villages have a bland, almost suburban feel. This hasn’t stopped the mega-rich from coming in droves – Silvio Berlusconi owns six properties here.

Porto Cervo The “capital” of the Costa Smeralda, PORTO CERVO, is connected to Olbia and Arzachena by ARST and (in summer) Sun Lines buses. The “local”-style rustic-red architecture here embodies the dream of an idyllic Mediterranean village without any of the irritations of real life. Graffiti- and litter-free, Porto Cervo exults in its exclusivity, with a glittering yachting marina as its centrepiece. You’ll need your own transport to reach the sandy beaches dotted down the coast south of Porto Cervo. None is clearly marked; just follow any dirt track down to the sea – the rougher it is, the more promising. Try Cappriccioli and Liscia Ruia, 6km south of Porto Cervo and near the Costa Smeralda’s most exclusive hotel, the Cala di Volpe (T 0789.976.111, W www.caladivolpe.com; 9 ) – but free to all.

Arzachena

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ARZACHENA is a not particularly inspiring inland town, though it has banks, stores, restaurants and a handful of pricey but characterless hotels. Most affordable of these, the Citti, lies on the edge of town on the main road to Palau at Viale Costa Smeralda 197 (T 0789.82.662, W www.hotelcitti.com; 3 ), with a small pool, while Casa Mia, on the other side of town on the Olbia–Palau road, Viale Costa Smeralda (T 0789.82.790, W www.hotelcasamia.it; 4 ), has a garden and restaurant; both have signiﬁcantly lower rates outside peak season. At least ﬁve buses daily leave Olbia on the northward-bound SS125 that takes in Arzachena, Palau and Santa Teresa di Gallura. Sharing many of the Costa Smeralda’s natural features, the Golfo di Arzachena is a deep narrow bay with facilities concentrated in and around CANNIGIONE, a small ﬁshing port and yachting resort linked to Arzachena by bus (Mon–Sat

2–4 daily), where there’s a tourist office on Via Orecchioni ( June–Sept daily 9am–1pm & 4.30–7.30pm; Oct–May Mon–Fri 9am–1pm; T 0789.88.229). The cheapest of Cannigione’s hotels is the Hotel del Porto, opposite the marina at Via Nazionale 94 (T 0789.88.011, W www.hoteldelporto.com; 5 –6 ), which has rooms with balconies and a good seafood restaurant. The Villaggio Isuledda campsite (T 0789.86.003, W www.isuledda.it; late April to late Sept), a couple of kilometres north of Cannigione in LA CONIA, is right on the shore and has a range of mobile homes and bungalows to rent (3 ).

The Maddalena Islands

It takes twenty minutes to cross what Nelson called “Agincourt Sound” from Palau to the port and sole town on LA MADDALENA. The town, bearing the same name as the island, is a cheerful place, its population of about 11,000 swollen by a large number of Italian sailors whose headquarters are on the eastern side of town, a drab area of barracks. There’s also a military installation on the neighbouring island of Santo Stéfano, brieﬂy captured by Napoleon in 1793 in an abortive attempt to take Sardinia. Most of the town’s action takes place in the narrow lanes between Piazza Umberto I and Cala Gavetta (the marina for small boats), a ﬁve-minute walk from the ferry port (heading left) and site of the tourist office (Mon & Wed 8am–2pm & 3–6pm, Tues, Thurs & Fri 8am–2pm, also Sat 9am–1pm mid-June to mid-Sept; T 0789.736.321, W www.comune.lamaddalena.ot.it). The town is not particularly well off for hotels. Cheapest are the Arcipelago at Via Indipendenza Traversa 2 (T 0789.727.328; 3 ), a signposted ﬁfteen-minute walk east from the ferry port, offering modern, quiet rooms, and, in the opposite direction, the Gabbiano at Via Giulio Césare 20 (T 0789.722.507, W www.hotel-ilgabbiano.it; 4 ), panoramically sited on the shore beyond Cala Gavetta. There are also three campsites, all outside town and all closed outside the summer months: Il Sole, on Via Indipendenza (T 0789.727.727), Maddalena, in the Moneta district (T 0789.728.051, W www .campingmaddalena.it), and Abbatoggia (T 0789.739.173, E info@campingabba toggia.it), close to some good beaches in the north of the island. The last two sites also have caravans and bungalows to rent (2 ). The island invites aimless wandering and offers a variety of sandy and rocky beaches in mostly undeveloped coves. Buses run to various parts of the island (and to Caprera) from Piazza Umberto I near the port (roughly every hour in summer, less frequent in winter). Bikes and mopeds can be rented from any of the outlets on the seafront towards Cala Gavetta for about €15 a day for a bike, or €60 for a scooter (prices drop outside peak season). The beaches on the northern and western coasts are most attractive, particularly those around the tiny port of Madonetta, 5km west of La Maddalena, and at Cala Lunga, 5km north of town.

| The Maddalena Islands

La Maddalena

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The profusion of minor islands off this stretch of coast, over sixty in all, form part of La Maddalena national park, which can be explored on various boat tours. From Palau, 10km up the coast from Cannigione, ferries leave every ﬁfteen minutes in peak season (around €11 return per person, €44 return for two people in a medium-sized car; book early in high season) for the archipelago’s only port, La Maddalena. An upbeat, attractive town, it has few sights as such, but is full of life in the summer months. From here, you can drive, bike or hike across to neighbouring Caprera, the island on which Garibaldi spent his last years.

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Caprera

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| Santa Teresa di Gallura and around

Though partly used for military purposes, CAPRERA’s protected wooded parkland is open to all, and is undeveloped apart from Garibaldi’s house in the centre and a couple of secluded, self-contained tourist complexes. Giuseppe Garibaldi (1807–82) came to live in Caprera in 1855, after a twentyyear exile from Italy. It was from here that he embarked on his spectacular conquest of Sicily and Naples in 1861, accompanied by his thousand Red Shirts, and it was here that he returned after his campaigns to resume a simple farming life. Having bought the northern part of the island for £360, he spent much of his time writing his memoirs and some bad novels. In 1864 a group of English admirers provided the money for Garibaldi to buy the rest of Caprera from local landowners. The museum (Tues–Sun 9am–1.30pm & 2–7.15pm; €5) is in Garibaldi’s old house, the elegant South American-style Casa Bianca, which has been preserved pretty much as he left it. Visitors are escorted past the bed where he slept, a smaller one where he died, various scrolls, manifestoes and pronouncements, as well as an array of personal memorabilia. A stopped clock and a wall calendar indicate the precise time and date of his death. The tour ends with Garibaldi’s tomb in the garden, its rough granite contrasting with the more pompous tombs of his last wife and ﬁve of his children. Garibaldi had requested to be cremated, but following the wishes of his son Menotti his corpse was embalmed. In 1932, ﬁfty years after his death, his tomb was opened to reveal the body perfectly intact.

Santa Teresa di Gallura and around The road from Olbia and Palau passes a succession of lovely bays, some dramatic rocky coastline, and a handful of campsites. Six kilometres west of Palau, the slender isthmus of Porto Pollo is Sardinia’s busiest watersports centre, with ideal conditions for windsurﬁng and kitesurﬁng. There are numerous surf schools and rental outﬁts, while the sheltered, dune-backed beaches will equally appeal to non-surfers. Some 15km further west, SANTA TERESA DI GALLURA is Sardinia’s northernmost port, served by buses from Arzachena and Palau (5–12 daily). The town gets extremely lively in summer, with a buzzing nightlife, but the main draw is the beaches, many enjoying superb views over to Corsica, just 11km away. There’s one stretch of sand right at the edge of town, but some of the ﬁnest beaches on the whole island are a short bus-ride away (up to 5 daily mid-June to mid-Sept), with Punta Falcone and La Marmorata to the east, and Capo Testa, with its wind-sculpted granite rock formations, 3km west of Santa Teresa.

Practicalities

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Santa Teresa’s tourist office is on the main Piazza Vittorio Emanuele (mid-June to mid-Sept Mon–Fri 9am–11pm, Sat & Sun 9am–3pm & 5–11pm; mid-Sept to mid-June Mon, Thurs & Fri 9am–2pm, Tues & Wed 9am–2pm & 4–6pm; T 0789.754.127, W www.comunestg.it). You can rent bikes (€10–15 a day) and scooters (from €40 a day) nearby at Piazza San Vittorio 7. From the port on the eastern side of town, Moby Lines and Saremar operate sailings to Bonifacio in Corsica (2–7 daily; 1hr; €16–18 one way, plus €35–50 per car). The town’s plentiful hotels – most of which demand at least half-board in July and August – include the comfortable, family-run Scano at Via Lazio 4 (T 0789.754.447, W www.albergoscano.it; 3 ), but the town’s B&Bs offer better value (no credit

cards accepted). A La Chicca di Francesca at Via Basilicata 4 (T 0789.754.691 or 347.335.0779, W www.lachiccadifrancesca.com; 3 ), is set in lush gardens and has three rooms with wood furnishings and air conditioning, while nearby Le Ortensie at Via Campania 15 (T 0789.755.469 or 328.255.6559, W www.bbleortensie .com; closed Dec–Feb; 2 ) is spotless and welcoming, with delicious breakfasts. The nearest campsite is La Liccia (T 0789.755.190, W www.campinglaliccia.com; mid-May to Sept), 6km west, signposted off the Castelsardo road, near a beach and with bungalows (2 ). Santa Teresa has no shortage of bars and restaurants: for a good meal try Papè Satan, at Via Lamármora 20 (T 0789.755.048; closed mid-Oct to mid-April), a backstreet pizzeria with courtyard, or Marlin, Via Garibaldi 4 (T 0789.754.697), which serves fresh pastas and ﬁsh and meat dishes, as well as pizzas.

| Sássari and around

Sardinia’s second city, SÁSSARI, combines an insular, traditional feel, as embodied in its well-preserved tangle of lanes in the old quarter, with a forward-looking, conﬁdent air that is most evident in its modern centre. As a holiday destination, however, this inland town has limited appeal, lacking enough entertainment to ﬁll more than a couple of afternoons or evenings. Historically, while Cágliari was Pisa’s base of operations during the Middle Ages, Sássari was the Genoan capital, ruled by the Doria family, whose power reached throughout the Mediterranean. Under the Aragonese it became an important centre of Spanish hegemony, and the Spanish stamp is still strong, not least in its churches. In the sixteenth century the Jesuits founded Sardinia’s ﬁrst university here, which continues to excel in the spheres of law, medicine and politics. If lively Sássari leaves you longing for some peace and quiet, the undeveloped coastline around Stintino, at Sardinia’s northwestern tip, makes a worthwhile excursion.

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Arrival, information and accommodation If you’re coming to Sássari by train, you’ll probably have to change at OzieriChilivani station to arrive at Sássari station, at the bottom of the old town’s Corso Vittorio Emanuele. The bus station is on Via XXV Aprile, a right turn out of the train station, for all long-distance buses as well as the regular service linking the city with Alghero airport (W www.aeroportodialghero.it). In Sássari’s old quarter, the tourist office is on Via Sebastiano Satta (Mon–Sat 9am–1.30pm & 3–6pm; T 079.200.8072, W www.comune.sassari.it) and there’s internet access at Net Gate, Piazza Università 15. Sássari’s best accommodation choices are in or around the old quarter. Hotels & B&Bs S ARDI NI A

| Sássari and around

Capo di Sopra Corso Vittorio Emanuele 24 T 079.202.8095 or 393.929.1004, W www .capodisopra.com. Central B&B with three spacious rooms and private or en-suite bathrooms. No credit cards. 2 Casachiara Vicolo Bertolinis 7 T079.200.5052 or 333.695.7118, W www.casachiara.net. This relaxed B&B on the second ﬂoor of an eighteenth-century palazzo in the old quarter has colourful rooms and bathrooms. No credit cards. 1

Quattrogatti Via Sant’Eligio 5 T 079.237.819 or 349.406.0481, Wwww.quattrogattibnb.it. A modern B&B with three spacious, individually decorated rooms, which come with DVD players and private bathrooms. No credit cards. 2 Vittorio Emanuele Corso Vittorio Emanuele 100 T079.235.538, Wwww.hotelvittorioemanuele.ss.it. An old-town palazzo ﬂashily renovated to appeal to business folk. Comfortable and good value, if a little bland. 2

The City Sássari’s old quarter, a network of alleys and piazzas bisected by the main Corso Vittorio Emanuele, is a good area for strolling around. At the heart of it is the Duomo (daily 8.30am–noon & 4–7.30pm), whose ﬂorid facade is Sardinia’s most imposing example of Baroque architecture, added to a simpler Aragonese-Gothic base from the ﬁfteenth and sixteenth centuries. Behind it, the eighteenth-century Palazzo Ducale now houses the town hall. On the other side of the Corso, Piazza Tola retains its medieval feel and is the venue of a daily market. The only other sight worth seeking out in the old quarter is the Fontana di Rosello (Mon–Sat 9am–1.30pm & 4–7pm; reduced hours in winter; free), symbol of the city, at the bottom of a ﬂight of grassy steps accessible from Corso Trinità, at the northern end of the old town. Built in 1606 in late Renaissance style by Genoese stonemasons, the fountain is elaborately carved with dolphins and four statues representing the seasons. Connected by a series of squares to the old quarter, the newer town is centred on the grandiose Piazza Italia. Leading off the piazza is Via Roma, a wide, café-lined

The Cavalcata

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One of Sardinia’s showiest festivals – the Cavalcata – takes place in Sássari on the penultimate Sunday of May, the highlight of a month of cultural activities. Northern Sardinia’s equivalent to Cágliari’s Sant’Efísio festival and originally staged for the beneﬁt of visiting Spanish kings or other dignitaries, it attracts hundreds of richly costumed participants from villages throughout the province and beyond. The festival is divided into three stages: the morning features a horseback parade and a display of the embroidered and decorated costumes unique to each village, after which there is a show of stirring feats of horsemanship at the local race-course. The day ends with traditional songs and dances back in Piazza Italia.

boulevard, at the top of which is the impressive Museo Sanna (Tues–Sun 10am–8pm; €5), Sardinia’s second archeological museum, whose most interesting exhibits are nuraghic sculptures.

Eating and drinking Sássari has some great restaurants: the quality is generally superb and prices are among the lowest in Sardinia. The town also has a lively bar scene, with those along Via Roma and on Piazza Castello packed out and open late in summer.

Stintino and around The port and resort of STINTINO, on Sardinia’s northwestern tip, was until recently nothing more than a remote jumble of ﬁshermen’s cottages jammed between two narrow harbours. Fortunately its discovery by the tourist industry has not resulted in any drastic alterations, and Stintino remains a small, laidback village, the only one in the tongue of land forming the western arm of the Golfo di Asinara. Most of the peninsula’s sunning and swimming takes place further up the coast at La Pelosa (see below), but the only reasonably priced accommodation in the area is in Stintino itself. The cheapest choice is the B&B Porto Vecchio, Via Tonnara 69 (T 079.523.212 or 339.435.3582, W www.bbstintino.com; no credit cards; 2 ). If you want a touch more luxury, consider Silvestrino at Via Sássari 14 (T 079.523.007, W www.silvestrino.it; obligatory full or half-board in peak season; late March to Nov; 4 ), whose excellent restaurant specializes in lobster soup, or Geranio Rosso, Via XXI Aprile 4 (T 079.523.292, W www.hotelgeraniorosso.it; 3 ), which has a pizzeria on site. For local agencies dealing with apartments to rent in the area (up to €1000 per week for two), contact the tourist office at Via Sássari 123 ( June to mid-Sept 9.30am–8.30pm; mid-Sept to May Mon, Wed & Fri 9.30am–12.30pm, Tues, Thurs & Sat 9.30am–12.30pm & 3.30–5.30pm; T 079.520.081, W www .infostintino.it). La Nassa, at Via Tonnara 35, has internet access. Some 4km up the road from Stintino a collection of tourist villages clutters up the otherwise idyllic promontory of La Pelosa, served by hourly bus from Stintino ( June–Sept only). Hotels and self-catering apartments back some of Sardinia’s most deluxe beaches, with views out to the isles of Piana and the larger, elongated Asinara. You can explore Asinara – previously a prison island, now a national park and nature reserve – between Easter and October on daily boat excursions from Stintino, leaving at 9.30/10am, returning at 5.30/6.30pm; the full visit including transport on the island costs from around €36, rising to €65 for a sea trip with swimming stops, lunch and guide; book

| Sássari and around

L’Assassino Vicolo Ospizio Cappuccini 1, off Via Rosello T079.235.041. Among the old town’s cheaper choices, this is a casual trattoria with good ﬁxed-price deals. Photos and paintings of Sássari line the walls. Closed Sun. La Vela Latina Largo Sisini 3 T 079.233.737. A smart, modern trattoria hidden away in the old town, specializing in traditional dishes (€7–15) and wines from Sardinia. Tables outside in summer. Closed Sun. Pizzalmetro Via Usai 10. Delicious pizzas are served by the metre to eat in or take away – just point out how much you want. Eves only; closed Mon.

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Coffee Break Piazza Azuni 19. For breakfast, a refreshing frappé or an aperitif, this intimate bar with outside tables also serves panini, pizzette and pastas. Closed Sun. Didò Via Largo Pazzola 8 T079.200.6089. A range of pastas and good-value set menus at weekday lunchtimes (€8–12). Try the house special, spaghetti Didò, with sausage, olives and parsley. Closed Sun. Fainè Sassu Via Usai 17, off Piazza Castello. The menu here is conﬁned to a sassarese speciality, fainè, a sort of pancake made of chickpea ﬂour, either plain or cooked with onions, sausage or anchovies – great for a snack. Closed Wed & June–Sept.

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tickets at least one day before from any of the agencies in town, such as La Nassa (see p.979; T 0789.520.060).

Alghero ALGHERO, 40km southwest of Sássari, is one of Sardinia’s most charming towns, and one of its busiest resorts. The predominant ﬂavour here is Catalan, owing to a wholesale Hispanicization that followed the overthrow of the Doria family by Pedro IV of Aragon in 1354, a process so thorough that it became Excursions to Grotta di Nettuno

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known as “Barcelonetta”. The traces are still strong in the old town today, with its ﬂamboyant churches and narrow cobbled lanes named in both Italian and Catalan, all sheltered within a stout girdle of walls.

Arrival and information

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| Alghero

Visitors arriving at Alghero airport (W www.aeroportodialghero.it) can catch hourly local buses into the centre of town (tickets €0.70 from machines in the terminal), or direct services to Cágliari and Sássari, and, in summer, Stintino and Santa Teresa di Gallura. Taxis into Alghero cost around €25. Bus timetables and other information can be obtained from the airport’s tourist office (daily 8.30am–1pm & 3.30–10pm; T 079.935.150), or Alghero’s main tourist office (Mon–Sat 8am–8pm; also Sun 10am–1pm April–Oct; T 079.979.054, W www .comune.alghero.ss.it), at the top end of the Giardini Pubblici. Trains arrive some way out of the centre, but regular city buses (#AP and Alfa) connect the station to the port. Buses from the airport and from out of town arrive at the Giardini Pubblici. A good way to get around the town and its environs is by bike: Cicloexpress, off Via Garibaldi at the northern end of the port, charges €35–50 per day for a scooter, €10–15 for a bicycle. There’s internet access at Fotoclub on Piazza Civica (daily: summer 9.30am–9pm; winter 9.30am– 1.30pm & 4.30–8.30pm).

Accommodation The choice of accommodation in Alghero is extensive, though much of it closes down in winter; in July and August, booking ahead is essential. There’s a useful hostel 6km along the coast at Fertilia, reachable by local bus on Via Parenzo, off Via Zara (T 079.930.478, W www.algherohostel.com; dorm beds €18). It’s modern and clean with some private rooms (1 ); call ﬁrst to check availability. Just 2km north of Alghero, there’s a busy campsite, La Mariposa (T 079.950.480, W www.lamariposa.it; April–Oct), with private rooms and bungalows (1 –2 ), and a shop, bar-restaurant and private beach. Aigua Via Machin 22 T 340.077.7688, W www.aigua.it. Five mini-apartments in the same building, with vaulted wood ceilings, exposed brickwork and tiled ﬂoors; some are equipped with kitchen facilities. 2 Al Duomo Via Sant’Erasmo 12 T 320.944.8743, W www.bbalduomo.it. Conveniently located close to the cathedral and port, this B&B has three spacious rooms (one en suite). The friendly owner puts on a good, cake-laden breakfast and is happy to advise on sightseeing, though she speaks little English. No credit cards. 3 La Rocca Via Roma 75 T 328.481.5988, W www.bblarocca.com. In a restored sixteenthcentury palazzo in the heart of the old town, this B&B has just one room, but it’s spacious and charmingly old-fashioned. An apartment is also available. No credit cards. 2 Mamajuana Vicolo Adami 12 T 339.136.9791, W www.mamajuana.it. Very central B&B in a

tastefully renovated building in the heart of the old town, with wood-beamed rooms and tiny en-suite bathrooms. Guests are given their own keys to come and go as they please. No credit cards. 2 San Francesco Via Machin 2 T 079.980.330, W www.sanfrancesco hotel.com. The only hotel in the old town is just behind the San Francesco church, with clean and quiet en-suite rooms, simply furnished and grouped round a cloister. Closed late Nov to late Dec. 3 Villa Las Tronas Lungomare Valencia 1 T 079.981.818, W www.hotelvillalastronas.com. Spectacularly sited on a promontory a 10min walk south of the centre, this castellated former residence from 1884 is full of character, still retaining a baronial air with its old-fashioned furnishings. There's also an excellent restaurant, a spa, and a saltwater pool carved out of the rock. 9

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The Town

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| Alghero

A walk around the old town should take in the circuit of seven defensive towers which dominate Alghero’s centre and its surrounding walls. From the Giardini Pubblici the Porta Terra is the ﬁrst of these massive bulwarks – known as the Jewish Tower, it was erected at the expense of the prosperous Jewish community before their expulsion in 1492. Beyond is a puzzle of lanes, at the heart of which the pedestrianized Via Carlo Alberto, Via Principe Umberto and Via Roma have most of the town’s bars and shops. At the bottom of Via Umberto stands Alghero’s sixteenth-century Cattedrale, whose incongruously Neoclassical entrance is round the other side on Via Manno; inside, the lofty nave’s alternating pillars and columns rise to an impressive octagonal dome. Most of Alghero’s ﬁnest architecture dates from the same period and is built in a similar Catalan-Gothic style. Two of the best examples are a short walk away: the Palazzo d’Albis on Piazza Civica and the elegantly austere Jewish palace Palazzo Carcassona in Via Sant’Erasmo (now a restaurant). Outside the old quarter, most of the tourist activity revolves around the port, its wide quay nudged by rows of colourful ﬁshing boats and bordered by bars. The town’s beaches begin further north, backed by hotels, sweeping round the coast virtually uninterrupted until Fertilia, near the airport.

Neptune’s Grotto and ancient sites The best of the excursions you can take from the port is to Neptune’s Grotto (April–Sept daily 9am–8pm; Oct daily 9am–7pm; Nov–March Mon–Thurs 9am–2pm; €12), a marine cave with dramatically lit stalagmites and stalactites. Boats depart several times daily between March and October: tickets cost €14, not including the entry charge to the grotto. Before buying tickets, it’s worth doublechecking with the operator that you’ll be able to visit the grotto on that day, as you can’t enter if the sea is too rough – and if the winds are up, be prepared for a choppy ride (40min). Alternatively there are one to three local buses daily from Alghero departing from the Giardini Pubblici (€2), leaving you at the top of a steep ﬂight of steps that corkscrews down to the cave mouth. Two ancient sites 10km outside Alghero are also worth visiting. The necropolis of Anghelu Ruju, a pre-nuraghic cave complex of 38 hypogea (daily: April & Oct 9am–6pm; May–Sept 9am–7pm; Nov–March 10am–2pm; €3, or €5 with tour; including Nuraghe Palmavera €5, or €9 with tour), is on the road to Porto Torres, near the airport, and reached by several daily buses from Alghero. On the road to Porto Conte are the nuraghe di Palmavera (same hours and prices as Anghelu Ruju), comprising a ruined palace dating from around 1100 BC and surrounded by ﬁfty or so circular huts. One bus daily goes there, leaving from the Giardini Pubblici at 9.15am and returning at noon (Mon–Sat only in winter).

Eating and drinking Alghero’s restaurants are renowned for their seafood, always fresh, inventively prepared and tastefully presented. Remember when ordering that most places price ﬁsh by weight: two or three etti (an etto is 100g) usually gets you a healthy portion.

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Al Vecchio Mulino Via Don Deroma 3 T 079.977.254. In the heart of the old town, this serves up tasty, well-priced sea- and land-based dishes (around €15) and pizzas in

low-vaulted cellars and has a good selection of white wines. Closed lunchtimes except July & Aug, also Tues dinner in winter, all Nov & 2 weeks in Jan.

Andreini Via Ardoino 45 T 079.982.098. The place to come for a ﬁrst-rate – if pricey – ﬁshy feast (though they also offer creative meat dishes), in an atmospheric, grotto-like dining room, or outside in summer. Mains are €22–32. Closed Mon Oct–April. Café Latino Piazza Duomo 6. A great place for an evening aperitif, with parasols on the walls overlooking the port. Snacks and ice creams are also served. Closed Tues Oct–May. Casablanca Via Principe Umberto 72 T 079.983.353. The best place in town for a

straightforward pizza or pasta dish in a convivial atmosphere; mains are around €12. Closed Wed Oct–May. Il Ghiotto Piazza Civica 23. A great range of takeaway snacks, as well as hot meals – pastas, seafood and meat – and ﬁne Sardinian wines. Closed Nov. Jamaica Inn Via Principe Umberto 57. This pub – right in the thick of things – is a lively spot for cocktails, and it serves meals too, with main courses around €13. Open late. Closed Mon Oct–May.

Trains

* May involve changing trains at Oristano, Macomer or Ozieri-Chilivani

Buses Alghero to: Bosa (5–7 daily; 55min); Sássari (9–15 daily; 45min–1hr). Cágliari to: Barúmini (1–3 daily; 1hr 30min); Nuoro (3 daily; 2hr 30min–3hr); Olbia (1–2 daily; 4hr 15min–5hr); Oristano (Mon–Sat 2 daily; 2hr);

| Travel details

Alghero to: Sássari (7–11 daily; 35min). Arbatax to: Cágliari (mid-June to mid-Sept Wed–Mon 2 daily via Mandas; 6hr 25min–7hr 10min). Cágliari to: Arbatax (mid-June to mid-Sept Wed–Mon 2 daily via Mandas; 6hr 20min–7hr); Macomer* (8 daily; 1hr 40min–2hr 50min); Olbia* (5 daily; 3hr 30min–4hr 20min); Oristano (12–17 daily; 1hr–1hr 45 min); Sássari* (5 daily; 3hr 30min–4hr 25min). Macomer to: Cágliari* (7–8 daily; 1hr 40min–2hr 40min); Nuoro (Mon–Sat 6 daily; 1hr 15min). Nuoro to: Macomer (Mon–Sat 7 daily; 1hr 15min). Olbia to: Cágliari* (5 daily; 3hr 30min–4hr 10min); Golfo Aranci (5–7 daily; 25min); Oristano* (5 daily; 2hr 35min–3hr); Sássari* (5 daily; 2hr). Oristano to: Cágliari (11–15 daily; 1hr–1hr 30min); Macomer (7–9 daily; 45min–1hr); Olbia* (5 daily; 2hr 30min–3hr); Sássari* (5 daily; 2hr–2hr 45min). Sássari to: Alghero (8–11 daily; 35min); Cágliari* (5 daily; 3hr–3hr 45min); Macomer (5 daily; 1hr 35min); Olbia* (6 daily; 1hr 50min–2hr 10min); Oristano* (5 daily; 2hr–2hr 30min).

Sant’Antíoco (1–2 daily; 1hr 50min); Sássari (2–3 daily; 3hr 15min). Nuoro to: Aritzo (1 daily; 2hr); Cágliari (3 daily; 2hr 30min–3hr); Fonni (4–8 daily; 40min–1hr 30min); Olbia (9–10 daily; 2hr–2hr 30min); Orgósolo (3–9 daily; 35min); Oristano (1 daily; 1hr 45min); Santa Teresa di Gallura (1 daily; 3hr 15min); Sássari (3 daily; 1hr 50min); Tonara (1 daily; 1hr 30min). Olbia to: Arzachena (8–15 daily; 35–50min); Cágliari (1–2 daily; 4hr 15min–5hr); Nuoro (5–8 daily; 2hr 30min); Palau (6–9 daily; 1hr 10min); Porto Cervo (June–Sept daily 4–5 daily; Oct–May Mon–Sat 1 daily; 1hr 35min); Santa Teresa di Gallura (5–7 daily; 1hr 35min–2hr); Sássari (2–3 daily; 1hr 20min–2hr). Oristano to: Bosa (Mon–Sat 4 daily; 2hr); Cágliari (Mon–Sat 2 daily; 2hr); Nuoro (1 daily; 1hr 45min); Sássari (2–3 daily; 1hr 45min–2hr). Sássari to: Alghero (9–15 daily; 45min–1hr); Bosa (1–4 daily; 2hr–2hr 20min); Cágliari (2–3 daily; 3hr 15min); Nuoro (3 daily; 1hr 50min); Olbia (1–2 daily; 1hr 20min–1hr 45min); Oristano (2–3 daily; 1hr 45min–2hr); Santa Teresa di Gallura (2–5 daily; 2hr 35min); Stintino (2–5 daily; 1hr 15min).

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Ferries Arbatax to: Civitavécchia (2 weekly; 10hr 30min); Genoa (2 weekly; 20hr). Cágliari to: Civitavécchia (1 daily; 15–17hr); Naples (1–3 weekly; 16–17hr); Palermo (1 weekly; 14hr 30min); Trápani (1 weekly; 10hr). Golfo Aranci to: Civitavécchia (early April to late Sept 3–7 weekly; 5hr 15min); Livorno (1–2 daily; 6hr 15min–10hr 30min); Naples (mid-June to early Sept 1–2 weekly; 13hr 30min).

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Olbia to: Civitavécchia (1–8 daily; 5–10hr); Genoa (3–18 weekly; 9hr 30min–12hr 30min); Livorno (1–3 daily; 6hr–8hr 30min); Piombino (late May to mid-Sept 2–7 weekly; 4hr 30min). Palau to: La Maddalena (1–4 hourly; 20min). Porto Torres to: Genoa (7–16 weekly; 9–11hr).

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International ferries Porto Torres to: Ajaccio, Corsica (up to 2 weekly; 4hr); Marseille, France (2–4 weekly; 11hr–17hr 30min); Propriano, Corsica (2–4 weekly; 3hr 30min). Santa Teresa di Gallura to: Bonifacio, Corsica (2–7 daily; 1hr).

Contexts

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Contexts History ..................................................................................987

Italian art .............................................................................1003

Italian architecture ..............................................................1012

An A–Z of Italian ﬁlm...........................................................1020

Books ..................................................................................1027

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History speciﬁc Italian history is hard to identify. Italy wasn’t formally a united country until 1861, and the history of the peninsula after the Romans is more one of warring city-states, colonization and annexation by foreign powers. It’s almost inconceivable now that Italy should fragment once again, but the regional differences remain strong and have, in recent years, become a major factor in Italian politics.

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A smattering of remains exist from the Neanderthals who occupied the Italian peninsula half a million years ago, but the main period of colonization began after the last Ice Age, with evidence of Paleolithic and Neolithic settlements dating from around 20,000 BC and 4000 BC respectively. More sophisticated tribes developed towards the end of the prehistoric period, between 2400 and 1800 BC; those who left the most visible traces were the Ligurians (who inhabited a much greater area than modern Liguria), the Siculi of southern Italy and Latium, and the Sards, who farmed and raised livestock on Sardinia. More advanced still were migrant groups from the eastern Mediterranean, who introduced the techniques of working copper. Later, various Bronze Age societies (1600–1000 BC) built a network of farms and villages in the Apennines, and on the Sicilian and southern coasts, the latter population trading with Mycenaeans in Greece. Other tribes brought Indo-European languages into Italy. The Veneti, Latins and Umbrii moved down the peninsula from the north, while the Piceni and the Messapians in Puglia crossed the Adriatic from what is now Croatia. The artiﬁcial line between prehistory and history is drawn around the eighth century BC with the arrival of the Phoenicians and their trade links between Carthage and southern Italy. This soon encouraged the arrival of the Carthaginians in Sicily, Sardinia and the Latium coast – just when Greeks and Etruscans were gaining inﬂuence.

Etruscans and Greeks Greek settlers colonized parts of the Tuscan coast and the Bay of Naples in the eighth century BC, moving on to Naxos on Sicily’s Ionian coast, and founding the city of Syracuse in the year 736 BC. The colonies they established in Sicily and southern Italy came to be known as Magna Graecia. Along with Etruscan cities to the north they were the earliest Italian civilizations to leave substantial buildings and written records. The Greek settlements were hugely successful, introducing the vine and the olive to Italy, and establishing a high-yielding agricultural system. Cities like Syracuse and Tarentum were wealthier and more sophisticated than those on mainland Greece, dominating trade in the central Mediterranean, despite competition from Carthage. Ruins such as the temples of Agrigento and Selinunte, the fortiﬁed walls around Gela, and the theatres at Syracuse and Taormina on Sicily attest to a great prosperity, and Magna Graecia became an enriching inﬂuence on the culture of the Greek homeland – Archimedes, Aeschylus and Empedocles were all from Sicily. Yet these colonies suffered from the same factionalism as the Greek states,

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and the cities of Tarentum, Metapontum, Sybaris and Croton were united only when faced with the threat of outside invasion. From 400 BC, after Sybaris was razed to the ground, the other colonies went into irreversible economic decline, to become satellite states of Rome. The Etruscans were the other major civilization of the period, mostly living in the area between the Tiber and Arno rivers. Their language, known mostly from funerary texts, is one of the last relics of an ancient language common to the Mediterranean. Some say they arrived in Italy around the ninth century BC from western Anatolia, others that they came from the north, and a third hypothesis places their origins in Etruria. Whatever the case, they set up a cluster of twelve city-states in northern Italy, traded with Greek colonies to the south and were the most powerful people in northern Italy by the sixth century BC, edging out the indigenous population of Ligurians, Latins and Sabines. Tomb frescoes in Umbria and Lazio depict a reﬁned and luxurious culture with highly developed systems of divination, based on the reading of animal entrails and the ﬂight of birds. Herodotus wrote that the Etruscans recorded their ancestry along the female line, and tomb excavations in the nineteenth century revealed that women were buried in special sarcophagi carved with their names. Well-preserved chamber tombs with wall paintings exist at Cerveteri and Tarquinia, the two major sites in Italy. The Etruscans were technically advanced, creating new agricultural land through irrigation and building their cities on ramparted hilltops – a pattern of settlement that has left a permanent mark on central Italy. Their kingdom contracted, however, after invasions by the Cumans, Syracusans and Gauls, and was eventually forced into alliance with the embryonic Roman state. Almost none of their towns have survived the archeological record – the only exception being modern-day Marzabotto or Misa, a ﬁne example of Etruscan urban planning.

Roman Italy

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The growth of Rome, a border town between the Etruscans and the Latins, gained impetus around 600 BC from a coalition of Latin and Sabine communities. The Tarquins, an Etruscan dynasty, oversaw the early expansion, but in 509 BC the Romans ejected the Etruscan royal family and became a republic, with power shared jointly between two consuls, both elected for one year. Further changes came half a century later, after a protracted class struggle that resulted in the Law of the Twelve Tables, which made patricians and plebeians equal. Thus stabilized, the Romans set out to systematically conquer the northern peninsula and, after the fall of Veii in 396 BC, succeeded in capturing Sutri and Nepi, towns which Livy considered the “barriers and gateways of Etruria”. Various wars and truces with other cities brought about agreements to pay harsh tributes. The Gauls captured Rome in 390, refusing to leave until they had received a vast payment, but this proved a temporary reversal. The Romans took Campania and the fertile land of Puglia after defeating the Samnites in battles over a period of 35 years. They then set their sights on the wealthy Greek colonies to the south, including Tarentum, whose inhabitants turned to the Greek king, Pyrrhus of Epirus, for military support. He initially repelled the Roman invaders, but lost his advantage and was defeated at Beneventum in 275 BC. The Romans had by then established their rule in most of southern Italy, and now became a threat to Carthage. In 264 they had the chance of obtaining Sicily, when the Mamertines, a mercenary army in control of Messina, appealed

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to them for help against the Carthaginians. The Romans obliged – sparking off the First Punic War – and took most of the island, together with Sardinia and Corsica. With their victory in 222 BC over the Gauls in the Po Valley, all Italy was now under Roman control. They also turned a subsequent military threat to their advantage, in what came to be known as the Second Punic War. The Carthaginians had watched the spread of Roman power across the Mediterranean with some alarm, and at the end of the third century BC they allowed Hannibal to make an Alpine crossing into Italy with his army of infantry, horsemen and elephants. Hannibal crushed the Roman legions at Lago Trasimeno and Cannae (216 BC), and then halted at Cápua. With remarkable cool, considering Hannibal’s proximity, Scipio set sail on a retaliatory mission to the Carthaginian territory of Spain, taking Cartagena, and continuing his journey into Africa. It was another ﬁfty years before Carthage was taken, closely followed by all of Spain, but the Romans were busy in the meantime adding Macedonian Greece to their territory. These conquests gave Roman citizens a tax-free existence subsidized by captured treasure, but society was sharply divided between those enjoying the beneﬁts, and those who were not. The former belonged mostly to the senatorial party, who ignored demands for reform by their opposition, the popular party. The radical reforms sponsored by the tribune Gaius Gracchus came too close to democracy for the senatorial party, whose declaration of martial law was followed by the assassination of Gracchus. The majority of people realized that the only hope of gaining inﬂuence was through the army, but General Gaius Marius, when put into power, was ineffective against the senatorial clique, who systematically picked off the new regime. The ﬁrst century BC saw civil strife on an unprecedented scale. Although Marius was still in power, another general, Sulla, was in the ascendancy, leading military campaigns against northern invaders and rebellious subjects in the south. Sulla subsequently took power and established his dictatorship in Rome, throwing out a populist government which had formed while he was away on a campaign in the east. Murder and exile were common, and cities which had sided with Marius during their struggle for power were punished with massacres and destruction. Thousands of Sulla’s war veterans were given conﬁscated land, but much of it was laid to waste. In 73 BC a gladiator named Spartacus led 70,000 dispossessed farmers and escaped slaves in a revolt, which lasted for two years before they were defeated by the legions.

Julius Caesar and Augustus Rome became calmer only after Sulla’s death, when Pompey, another general, and Licinus Crassus, a rich builder, became masters of Rome. Pompey’s interest lay in lucrative wars elsewhere, so his absence from the capital gave Julius Caesar the chance to make a name for himself as an orator and raiser of ﬁnance. When Pompey returned in 60 BC, he made himself, Crassus and Caesar rulers of the ﬁrst Triumvirate. Caesar bought himself the post of consul in 59 BC, then spent the next eight years on campaigns against the Gauls. His military success needled Pompey, and he eventually turned against his colleague, giving Caesar the chance to hit back. In 49 BC he crossed the river Rubicon, committing the offence of entering Roman territory with an army without ﬁrst informing the Senate, but when he reached the city there was no resistance – everyone had ﬂed, and Caesar became absolute ruler of Rome. He spent the next four years on civil reforms, writing his history of the Gallic wars, and chasing Pompey and his followers through Spain,

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Greece and Egypt. A group of enemies within the Senate, including his adopted son Brutus, conspired to murder him in 44 BC, a few months after he had been appointed ruler for life. Octavian, Caesar’s nephew and heir, Lepidus and Marcus Antonius (Mark Antony) formed the second Triumvirate the following year. Again, the arrangement was fraught with tensions, the battle for power this time being between Antony and Octavian. While Antony was with Cleopatra, Octavian spent his time developing his military strength and the ﬁnal, decisive battle took place at Actium in 31 BC, where Antony committed suicide. As sole ruler of the new regime, Octavian, renaming himself Augustus Caesar, embarked on a series of reforms and public works, giving himself complete powers despite his unassuming official title of “First Citizen”.

The emperors C ONTE XTS

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Tiberius (14–37 AD), the successor to Augustus, ruled wisely, but thereafter began a period of decadence. During the psychopathic reign of Caligula (37–41) the civil service kept the empire running; Claudius (41–54) conquered southern Britain, and was succeeded by his stepson Nero (54–68), who violently persecuted the Christians. Nero committed suicide when threatened by a coup, leading to a rapid succession of four emperors in the year 68. The period of prosperity during the rule of the Flavian emperors (Vespasian and his sons Titus and Domitian) was a forerunner for the Century of the Antonines, a period named after the successful reigns of Nerva, Trajan, Hadrian, Antonius and Marcus Aurelius. These generals consolidated the empire’s infrastructure, and created an encouraging environment for artistic achievement. A prime example is the formidable bronze equestrian statue of Marcus Aurelius in Rome – a work not equalled in sophistication until the Renaissance. A troubled period followed under the rule of Marcus Aurelius’s son Commodus (180–193) and his successors, none of whom were wholly in control of the legions. Artistic, intellectual and religious life stagnated, and the balance of economic development tilted in favour of the north, while the agricultural south grew ever more impoverished.

Barbarians and Byzantines

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In the middle of the third century, incursions by Goths in Greece, the Balkans and Asia, and the Franks and Alamanni in Gaul foreshadowed the collapse of the empire. Aurelian (270–275) re-established some order after terrible civil wars, to be followed by Diocletian (284–305), whose persecution of Christians produced many of the Church’s present-day saints. Plagues had decimated the population, but problems of a huge but static economy were compounded by the doubling in size of the army at this time to about half a million men. To ease administration, Diocletian divided the empire into two halves, east and west, basing himself as ruler of the western empire in Mediolanum (Milan). This measure brought about a relative recovery, coinciding with the rise of Christianity, which was declared the state religion during the reign of Constantine (306–337). Constantinople, capital of the eastern empire, became a thriving trading and manufacturing city, while Rome itself went into decline, as the enlargement of the senatorial estates and the impoverishment of the lower classes gave rise to something comparable to a primitive feudal system. Barbarians (meaning outsiders, or foreigners) had been crossing the border into the empire since 376 AD, when the Ostrogoths were driven from their kingdom in southern Russia by the Huns, a tribe of ferocious horsemen. The Huns went

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on to attack the Visigoths, 70,000 of whom crossed the border and settled inside the empire. When the Roman aristocracy saw that the empire was no longer a shield against barbarian raids, they were less inclined to pay for its support, seeing that a more comfortable future lay in being on good terms with the barbarian successor states. By the ﬁfth century, many legions were made up of troops from conquered territories, and several posts of high command were held by outsiders. With little will or loyalty behind it, the empire ﬂoundered, and on New Year’s Eve of 406, Vandals, Alans and Sueves crossed the frozen Rhine into Gaul, chased by the Huns from their kingdoms in what are now Hungary and Austria. By 408, the imperial government in Ravenna could no longer hold off Alaric (commander of Illyricum – now Croatia) who went on to sack Rome in 410, causing a crisis of morale in the west. “When the whole world perished in one city,” wrote Saint Jerome, “then I was dumb with silence.” The bitter end of the Roman Empire in the west came after Valentinian III’s assassination in 455. His eight successors over the next twenty years were ﬁnally ignored by the Germanic troops in the army, who elected their general Odoacer as king. The remaining Roman aristocracy hated him, and the eastern emperor, Zeno, who in theory now ruled the whole empire, refused to recognize him. In 487, Zeno rid himself of the Ostrogoth leader Theodoric by persuading him to march on Odoacer in Italy. By 493, Theodoric had succeeded, becoming ruler of the western territories. A lull followed. The Senate in Rome and the civil service continued to function, and the remains of the empire were still administered under Roman law. Ostrogothic rule of the west continued after Theodoric’s death, but in the 530s the eastern emperor, Justinian, began to plan the reuniﬁcation of the Roman Empire “up to the two oceans”. In 536 his general Belisarius landed in Sicily and moved north through Rome to Ravenna; complete reconquest of the Italian peninsula was achieved in 552, after which the Byzantines retained a presence in the south and in Sardinia for ﬁve hundred years. During this time the Christian Church developed as a more or less independent authority, since the emperor was at a safe distance in Constantinople. Continual invasions had led to an uncertain political scene in which the bishops of Rome emerged with the strongest voice – justiﬁcation of their primacy having already been given by Pope Leo I (440–461), who spoke of his right to “rule all who are ruled in the ﬁrst instance by Christ”. A confused period of rule followed, as armies from northern Europe tried to take more territory from the old empire.

Lombards and Franks During the chaotic sixth century, the Lombards, a Germanic tribe, were driven southwest into Italy, and by the eighth century, when the Franks arrived from Gaul, they were extending their power throughout the peninsula. The Franks were orthodox Christians, and therefore acceptable to Gallo-Roman nobility, integrating quickly and taking over much of the provincial administration. They were ruled by the Merovingian royal family, but the mayors of the palace – the Carolingians – began to take power in real terms. Led by Pepin the Short, they saw an advantage in supporting the papacy, giving Rome large endowments and forcibly converting pagans in areas they conquered. When Pepin wanted to oust the Merovingians, and become King of the Franks, he appealed to the pope in Rome for his blessing, who was happy to agree, anointing the new Frankish king with holy oil.

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This alliance was useful to both parties. In 755 the pope called on the Frankish army to confront the Lombards. The Franks forced them to hand over treasure and 22 cities and castles, which then became the northern part of the Papal States. Pepin died in 768, with the Church indebted to him. According to custom, he divided the kingdom between his two sons, one of whom died within three years. The other was Charles the Great, or Charlemagne. An intelligent and innovative leader, Charlemagne was proclaimed King of the Franks and of the Lombards, and patrician of the Romans, after a decisive war against the Lombards in 774. On Christmas Day of the year 800, Pope Leo III expressed his gratitude for Charlemagne’s political support by crowning him Emperor of the Holy Roman Empire, an investiture that forged an enduring link between the fortunes of Italy and those of northern Europe. By the time Charlemagne died, all of Italy from south of Rome to Lombardy, including Sardinia, was part of the huge Carolingian Empire. The parts that didn’t come under his domain were Sicily and the southern coast, which were gradually being reconquered by Arabs from Tunisia; and Puglia and Calabria, colonized by Byzantines and Greeks. The task of holding these gains was beyond Charlemagne’s successors, and by the beginning of the tenth century the family was extinct and the rival Italian states had become prizes for which the western (French) and eastern (German) Frankish kingdoms competed. Power switched in 936 to Otto, king of the eastern Franks. Political disunity in Italy invited him to intervene, and in 962 he was crowned emperor; Otto’s son and grandson (Ottos II and III) set the seal on the renewal of the Holy Roman Empire.

Popes and emperors

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On the death of Otto III in 1002, Italy was again without a recognized ruler. In the north, noblemen jockeyed for power, and the papacy was manipulated by rival Roman families. The most decisive events were in the south, where Sicily, Calabria and Puglia were captured by the Normans, who proved effective administrators and synthesized their own culture with the existing half-Arabic, half-Italian south. In Palermo in the eleventh century they created the most dynamic culture of the Mediterranean world. Meanwhile in Rome, a series of reforming popes began to strengthen the Church. Gregory VII, elected in 1073, was the most radical, demanding the right to depose emperors if he so wished. Emperor Henry IV was equally determined for this not to happen. The inevitable quarrel broke out, over a key appointment to the archbishopric of Milan. Henry denounced Gregory as “now not pope, but false monk”; the pope responded by excommunicating him, thereby freeing his subjects from their allegiance. By 1077 Henry was aware of his tactical error and tried to make amends by visiting the pope at Canossa, where the emperor, barefoot and penitent, was kept waiting outside for three days. The formal reconciliation did nothing to heal the rift, and Henry’s son, Henry V, continued the feud, eventually coming to a compromise in which the emperor kept control of bishops’ land ownership, while giving up rights over their investiture. After this symbolic victory, the papacy developed into the most comprehensive and advanced centralized government in Europe in the realms of law and ﬁnance, but it wasn’t long before unity again came under attack. This time, the threat came from Emperor Frederick I (Barbarossa), who besieged many northern Italian cities from his base in Germany from 1154. Pope Alexander III responded with ambiguous pronouncements about the imperial crown being a “beneﬁce” which the

pope conferred, implying that the emperor was the pope’s vassal. The issue of papal or imperial supremacy was to polarize the country for the next two hundred years, almost every part of Italy being torn by struggles between Guelphs (supporting the pope) and Ghibellines (supporting the emperor). Henry VI’s son, Frederick II, assumed the imperial throne at the age of three and a half, inheriting the Norman Kingdom of Sicily. Later linked by marriage to the great Hohenstaufen dynasty in Germany, he inevitably turned his attentions to northern Italy. However, his power base was small, and opposition from the Italian commune and the papacy snowballed into civil war. His sudden death in 1250 marked a major downturn in imperial fortunes.

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Charles of Anjou, brother of King Louis IX of France, defeated Frederick II’s heirs in southern Italy, and received Naples and Sicily as a reward from the pope. His oppressive government ﬁnally provoked an uprising on Easter Monday 1282, a revolt that came to be known as the Sicilian Vespers, as some two thousand occupying soldiers were murdered in Palermo at the sound of the bell for vespers. For the next twenty years the French were at war with Peter of Aragon, who took Sicily and then tried for the southern mainland. If imperial power was on the defensive, the papacy was in even worse shape. Knowing that the pontiff had little military backing or ﬁnancial strength left, Philip of France sent his men to the pope’s summer residence in 1303, subjecting the old man to a degrading attack. Boniface died within a few weeks; his French successor, Clement V, promptly moved the papacy to Avignon in southern France. The declining political power of the major rulers was countered by the growing autonomy of the cities. By 1300, a broad belt of some three hundred virtually independent city-states stretched from central Italy to the northernmost edge of the peninsula. In the middle of the century the population of Europe was savagely depleted by the Black Death – brought into Europe by a Genoese ship returning from the Black Sea – but the city states survived, developing a concept of citizenship quite different from the feudal lord-and-vassal relationship. By the end of the fourteenth century the richer and more inﬂuential states had swallowed up the smaller comune, leaving four as clear political front runners. These were Genoa (controlling the Ligurian coast), Florence (ruling Tuscany), Milan, whose sphere of inﬂuence included Lombardy and much of central Italy, and Venice. Smaller principalities, such as Mantua and Ferrara, supported armies of mercenaries, ensuring their security by building impregnable fortress-palaces. Perpetual vendettas between the propertied classes often induced the citizens to accept the overall rule of one signore in preference to the bloodshed of warring clans. A despotic form of government evolved, sanctioned by official titles from the emperor or pope, and by the ﬁfteenth century most city-states were under princely rather than republican rule. In the south of the fragmented peninsula was the Kingdom of Naples; the States of the Church stretched up from Rome through modern-day Marche, Umbria and the Romagna; Siena, Florence, Modena, Mantua and Ferrara were independent states, as were the Duchy of Milan, and the maritime republics of Venice and Genoa, with a few odd pockets of independence like Lucca, for example, and Rimini. The commercial and secular city-states of late medieval times were the seedbed for the Renaissance, when urban entrepreneurs (such as the Medici) and autocratic rulers (such as Federico da Montefeltro) enhanced their status through the ﬁnancing

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of architectural projects, paintings and sculpture. It was also at this time that the Tuscan dialect – the language of Dante, Petrarch and Boccaccio – became established as Italy’s literary language; it later became the nation’s official spoken language. By the mid-ﬁfteenth century the ﬁve most powerful states – Naples, the papacy, Milan, and the republics of Venice and Florence – reached a tacit agreement to maintain the new balance of power. Yet though there was a balance of power at home, the history of each of the independent Italian states became inextricably bound up with the power politics of other European countries.

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The inevitable ﬁnally happened when an Italian state invited a larger power in to defeat one of its rivals. In 1494, at the request of the Duke of Milan, Charles VIII of France marched south to renew the Angevin claim to the Kingdom of Naples. After the accomplishment of his mission, Charles stayed for three months in Naples, before heading back to France; the kingdom was then acquired by Ferdinand II of Aragon, subsequently ruler of all Spain. The person who really established the Spanish in Italy was the Habsburg Charles V (1500–58), who within three years of inheriting both the Austrian and Spanish thrones bribed his way to being elected Holy Roman Emperor. In 1527 the imperial troops sacked Rome, a calamity widely interpreted at the time as God’s punishment of the disorganized and dissolute Italians. The French remained troublesome opposition, but they were defeated at Pavia in 1526 and Naples in 1529. With the treaty of Cateau-Cambrésis in 1559, Spain held Sicily, Naples, Sardinia, the Duchy of Milan and some Tuscan fortresses, and they were to exert a stranglehold on Italian political life for the next 150 years. The remaining smaller states became satellites of either Spanish or French rule; only the papacy and Venice remained independent. Social and economic troubles were as severe as the political upheavals. While the papacy combated the spread of the Reformation in northern Europe, the major manufacturing and trading centres were coming to terms with the opening up of the Atlantic and Indian Ocean trade routes – discoveries which meant that northern Italy would increasingly be bypassed. Mid-sixteenth-century economic recession prompted wealthy Venetian and Florentine merchants to invest in land rather than business, while in the south high taxes and repressive feudal regimes produced an upsurge of banditry and even the raising of peasant militias – resistance that was ultimately suppressed brutally by the Spanish. The seventeenth century was a low point in Italian political life, with little room for manoeuvre between the papacy and colonial powers. The Spanish eventually lost control of Italy at the start of the eighteenth century when, as a result of the War of the Spanish Succession, Lombardy, Mantua, Naples and Sardinia all came under Austrian control. The machinations of the major powers led to frequent realignments in the ﬁrst half of the century. Piemonte, ruled by the Duke of Savoy, Victor Amadeus II, was forced in 1720 to surrender Sicily to the Austrians in return for Sardinia. In 1734 Naples and Sicily passed to the Spanish Bourbons, and three years later the House of Lorraine acquired Tuscany on the extinction of the Medici. Relatively enlightened Bourbon rule in the south did little to arrest the economic polarization of society, but the northern states advanced under the intelligent if autocratic rule of Austria’s Maria Theresa (1740–80) and her son Joseph II (1780–90), who prepared the way for early industrialization. Lightning changes came in April 1796, when the French armies of Napoleon invaded northern Italy.

Within a few years the French had been driven out again, but by 1810 Napoleon was in command of the whole peninsula, and his puppet regimes remained in charge until Waterloo. Napoleonic rule had profound effects, reducing the power of the papacy, reforming feudal land rights and introducing representative government to Italy. Elected assemblies were provided on the French model, giving the emerging middle class a chance for political discussion and action.

Uniﬁcation

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The fall of Napoleon led to the Vienna Settlement of 1815, by which the Austrians effectively restored the old ruling class. Metternich, the Austrian Chancellor, did all he could to foster any local loyalties that might weaken the appeal of unity, yet the years between 1820 and 1849 became years of revolution. Uprisings began in Sicily, Naples and Piemonte, when King Ferdinand introduced measures that restricted personal freedom and destroyed many farmers’ livelihoods. A makeshift army quickly gained popular support in Sicily, and forced some concessions, before Ferdinand invited the Austrians in to help him crush the revolution. In the north, the oppressive laws enacted by Vittorio Emanuele I in the Kingdom of Piemonte sparked off student protests and army mutinies in Turin. Vittorio Emanuele abdicated in favour of his brother, Carlo Felice, and his son, Carlo Alberto; the latter initially gave some support to the radicals, but Carlo Felice then called in the Austrians, and thousands of revolutionaries were forced into exile. Carlo Alberto became King of Sardinia in 1831. A secretive, excessively devout and devious character, he did a major volte-face when he assumed the throne by forming an alliance with the Austrians. In 1831 further uprisings occurred in Parma, Modena, the Papal States, Sicily and Naples. Their lack of coordination, and the readiness with which Austrian and papal troops intervened, ensured that revolution was short-lived. But even if these actions were unsustained, their inﬂuence grew. One person profoundly inﬂuenced by these insurgencies was Giuseppe Mazzini. Arrested as Secretary of the Genoese branch of the Carbonari (a secret radical society) in 1827 and jailed for three months in 1830, he formulated his political ideology and set up “Young Italy” on his release. Among the many to whom the ideals of “Young Italy” appealed was Giuseppe Garibaldi, soon to play a central role in the Risorgimento, as the movement to reform and unite the country was known. Crop failures in 1846 and 1847 produced widespread famine and cholera outbreaks. In Sicily an army of peasants marched on the capital, burning debt collection records, destroying property and freeing prisoners. Middle- and upperclass moderates were worried, and formed a government to control the uprising, but Sicilian separatist aims were realized in 1848. Fighting spread to Naples, where Ferdinand II made some temporary concessions, but nonetheless he retook Sicily the following year. At the same time as the southern revolution, serious disturbances took place in Tuscany, Piemonte and the Papal States. Rulers ﬂed their duchies, and Carlo Alberto altered course again, prompted by Metternich’s fall from power in Vienna: he granted his subjects a constitution and declared war on Austria. In Rome, the pope ﬂed from rioting and Mazzini became a member of the city’s republican triumvirate in 1849, with Garibaldi organizing the defences. None of the uprisings lasted long. Twenty thousand revolutionaries were expelled from Rome, Carlo Alberto abdicated in favour of his son Vittorio Emanuele II after military defeats at the hands of the Austrians, and the dukes returned to Tuscany, Modena and Parma. One thing that survived was Piemonte’s constitution, which throughout the 1850s attracted political refugees to the cosmopolitan state.

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Cavour and Garibaldi

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Nine years of radical change began when Count Camillo Cavour became Prime Minister of Piemonte in 1852. The involvement of Piemontese troops in the Crimean War brought Cavour into contact with Napoleon III at the Congress of Paris, at which the hostilities were ended, and in July 1858 the two men had secret talks on the “Italian question”. Napoleon III had decided to support Italy in its ﬁght against the Austrians – the only realistic way of achieving uniﬁcation – as long as resistance was non-revolutionary. Having bargained over the division of territory, they waited for a chance to provoke Austria into war. This came in 1859, when Cavour wrote an emotive anti-Austrian speech for Vittorio Emanuele at the opening of parliament. His battle cry for an end to the grido di dolore (cry of pain) was taken up over Italy. The Austrians ordered demobilization by the Piemontese, who did the reverse. The war was disastrous from the start, and thousands died at Magenta and Solferino. In July 1859, Napoleon III made a truce with the Austrians without consulting Cavour, who resigned in fury. Provisional governments remained in power in Tuscany, Modena and the Romagna. Cavour returned to government in 1860, and soon France, Piemonte and the papacy agreed to a series of plebiscites, a move that ensured that by mid-March of 1860, Tuscany and the new state of Emilia (duchies of Modena and Parma plus the Romagna) had voted for union with Piemonte. A secret treaty between Vittorio Emanuele and Napoleon III ceded Savoy and Nice to France, subject to plebiscites. The result was as planned, no doubt due in part to the presence of the French Army during voting. Garibaldi promptly set off for Nice with the aim of blowing up the ballot boxes, only to be diverted when he reached Genoa, where he heard of an uprising in Sicily. Commandeering two old paddle-steamers and obtaining just enough riﬂes for his thousand Red Shirts, he headed south. More support came when they landed in Sicily, and Garibaldi’s army outﬂanked the 12,000 Neapolitan troops to take the island. After that, they crossed to the mainland, easily occupied Naples, then struck out for Rome. Cavour, anxious that he might lose the initiative, hastily dispatched a Piemontese army to annexe the Papal States, except for the Patrimony around Rome. Worried by the possibility that the anti-Church revolutionaries who made up the Red Shirt army might stir up trouble, Cavour and Vittorio Emanuele travelled south to Rome, accompanied by their army, and arranged plebiscites in Sicily, Naples, Umbria and the Papal Marches that offered little alternative but to vote for annexation by Piemonte. After their triumphal parade through Naples, they thanked Garibaldi for his trouble, took command of all territories and held elections to a new parliament. In February 1861, the members formally announced the Kingdom of Italy. Cavour died the same year, before the country was completely uniﬁed, since Rome and Venice were still outside the kingdom. Garibaldi marched unsuccessfully on Rome in 1862, and again ﬁve years later, by which time Venice had been subsumed. It wasn’t until Napoleon III was defeated by Prussia in 1870 that the French troops were ousted from Rome. Thus by 1871 Uniﬁcation was complete.

The world wars 996

After the Risorgimento, some things still hadn’t changed. The ruling class were slow to move towards a broader-based political system, while living standards actually worsened in some areas, particularly in Sicily. When Sicilian peasant farmers

organized into fasci – forerunners of trade unions – the prime minister sent in 30,000 soldiers, closed down newspapers and interned suspected troublemakers without trial. In the 1890s capitalist methods and modern machinery in the Po Valley created a new social structure, with rich agrari at the top of the pile, a mass of farm labourers at the bottom, and an intervening layer of estate managers. In the 1880s Italy’s colonial expansion began, initially concentrated in bloody – and ultimately disastrous – campaigns in Abyssinia and Eritrea in 1886. In 1912 Italy wrested the Dodecanese islands and Libya from Turkey, a development deplored by many, including Benito Mussolini, who during this war was the radical secretary of the PSI (Partito Socialista Italiano) in Forlì.

World War I and the rise of Mussolini

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Italy entered World War I in 1915 with the chief aims of settling old scores with Austria and furthering its colonial ambitions through French and British support. A badly equipped, poorly commanded army took three years to force Austria into defeat, finally achieved in the last month of the war at Vittorio Veneto. Some territory was gained – Trieste, Gorizia, and what became Trentino-Alto Adige – but at the cost of over half a million dead, many more wounded, and a mountainous war debt. The middle classes, disillusioned with the war’s outcome and alarmed by inﬂation and social unrest, turned to Mussolini, now a ﬁgurehead of the Right. In 1921, recently elected to parliament, Mussolini formed the Partito Nazionale Fascista, whose squadre terrorized their opponents by direct personal attacks and the destruction of newspaper offices, printing shops, and socialist and trade union premises. By 1922 the party was in a position to carry out an insurrectionary “March on Rome”. Plans for the march were leaked to Prime Minister Facta, who needed the king’s signature on a martial law decree if the army were to meet the march. Fears of civil war led to the king’s refusal. Facta resigned, Mussolini made it clear that he would not join any government he did not lead, and on October 29 was awarded the premiership. Only then did the march take place. Zealous squadristi now urged Mussolini towards dictatorship, which he announced early in 1925. Political opposition and trade unions were outlawed, the free press disintegrated under censorship and Fascist takeovers, elected local governments were replaced by appointed officials, powers of arrest and detention were increased, and special courts were established for political crimes. In 1929, Mussolini ended a sixty-year feud between Church and State by reorganizing the Vatican as an autonomous Church state within the Kingdom of Italy. (As late as 1904, anyone involved in the new regime, even as a voter, had been automatically excommunicated.) By 1939, the motto “Everything within the State; nothing outside the State; nothing against the State” had become fact, with the government controlling the larger part of Italy’s steel, iron and ship-building industries, as well as every aspect of political life.

World War II Mussolini’s involvement in the Spanish Civil War in 1936 brought about the formation of the “Axis” with Nazi Germany. Italy entered World War II totally unprepared and with outdated equipment, but in 1941 invaded Yugoslavia to gain control of the Adriatic coast. Before long, though, Mussolini was on the defensive. Tens of thousands of Italian troops were killed on the Russian front in the winter of 1942, and in July 1943 the Allied forces gained a ﬁrst foothold in Europe, when Patton’s American Seventh Army and the British Eighth Army under Montgomery landed in Sicily. A month later they controlled the island.

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In the face of these and other reversals Mussolini was overthrown by his own Grand Council, who bundled him away to the isolated mountain resort of Gran Sasso, and replaced him with the perplexed Marshal Badoglio. The Allies wanted Italy’s surrender, for which they secretly offered amnesty to the king, Vittorio Emanuele III, who had coexisted with the Fascist regime for 21 years. On September 8 a radio broadcast announced that an armistice had been signed, and on the following day the Allies crossed onto the mainland. As the AngloAmerican army moved up through the peninsula, German divisions moved south to meet them, springing Mussolini from jail to set up the republic of Salò on Lago di Garda. It was a total failure, and increasing numbers of men and women from Communist, Socialist or Catholic parties swelled the opposing partisan forces to 450,000. In April 1945 Mussolini ﬂed for his life, but was caught by partisans before reaching Switzerland. He and his lover, Claretta Petacci, were shot and strung upside down from a ﬁlling-station roof in Milan’s Piazzale Loreto. C ONTE XTS

The postwar years

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A popular mandate declared Italy a republic in 1946, and Alcide de Gasperi’s Democrazia Cristiana (DC) party formed a government. During the 1950s Italy became a front-rank industrial nation, massive ﬁrms such as Fiat and Olivetti helping to double the GDP and triple industrial production. American ﬁnancial aid – the Marshall Plan – was an important factor in this expansion, as was the availability of a large and compliant workforce, a substantial proportion of which was drawn from the villages of the south. The DC at ﬁrst operated in alliance with other right-wing parties, but in 1963, in a move precipitated by the increased politicization of the blue-collar workers, they were obliged to share power for the ﬁrst time with the Partito Socialista Italiano (PSI). The DC politician who was largely responsible for sounding out the socialists was Aldo Moro, the dominant ﬁgure of Italian politics in the 1960s. Moro was prime minister from 1963 to 1968, a period in which the economy was disturbed by inﬂation and the removal of vast sums of money by wealthy citizens alarmed by the arrival in power of the PSI. The decade ended with the “autunno caldo” (“hot autumn”) of 1969, when strikes, occupations and demonstrations paralyzed the country.

The 1970s and 1980s

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In the 1970s the situation continued to worsen. More extreme forms of unrest broke out, instigated in the first instance by the far right, who were almost certainly behind a bomb which killed sixteen people in Piazza Fontana, Milan, in 1969, and the Piazza della Loggia bombing in Brescia ﬁve years later. Neo-fascist terrorism continued throughout the next decade, reaching its hideous climax in 1980, when 84 people were killed and 200 wounded in a bomb blast at Bologna train station. At the same time, a plethora of left-wing terrorist groups sprang up, many of them led by disaffected intellectuals at the northern universities. The most active of these were the Brigate Rosse (Red Brigades). They reached the peak of their notoriety in 1978, when a Red Brigade group kidnapped and killed Aldo Moro himself. A major police offensive in the early 1980s nulliﬁed most of the Brigate Rosse, but a number of hardline splinter groups from the various terrorist organizations are still in existence.

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Inconsistencies and secrecy beset those trying to discover who was really responsible for the terrorist activity of the 1970s. One Red Brigade member who served eighteen years in jail for his part in the assassination of Aldo Moro recently asserted that it was spies working for the Italian secret services who masterminded the operation. A report prepared by the PDS (Italy’s party of the democratic left) in 2000 stirred up further controversy: it alleged that in the 1970s and 1980s the Establishment pursued a “strategy of tension” and that indiscriminate bombing of the public and the threat of a right-wing coup were devices to stabilize centre-right political control of the country. The perpetrators of bombing campaigns were rarely caught, said the report, because “those massacres, those bombs, those military actions had been organized or promoted or supported by men inside Italian state institutions and, as has been discovered more recently, by men linked to the structures of United States intelligence”. “Other bombing campaigns were attributed to the left to prevent the Communist Party from achieving power by democratic means,” said Valter Bielli, PDS MP, and one of the report’s authors. The report drew furious rebuttals from centre-right groups and the US embassy in Rome. By whatever means, the DC government certainly clung to power. It was partly sustained by the so-called “historic compromise” negotiated in 1976 with Enrico Berlinguer, leader of the Partito Comunista Italiano (PCI). By this arrangement the PCI – polling 34 percent of the national vote, just three points less than the DC – agreed to abstain from voting in parliament in order to maintain a government of national unity. The pact was rescinded in 1979, and after Berlinguer’s death in 1984 the PCI’s share of the vote dropped to around 27 percent. The combination of this withdrawal of popular support and the collapse of the Communist bloc led to a realignment of the PCI under the leadership of Achille Occhetto, who turned the party into a democratic socialist grouping along the lines of left-leaning parties in Germany or Sweden – a transformation encapsulated by the party’s new name – the Partito Democratico della Sinistra (“Democratic Party of the Left”). In its efforts to exclude the left wing from power, the DC had been obliged to accede to demands from minor parties such as the Radical Party, which gained eighteen seats in the 1987 election, one of them going to the porn star Ilona Staller, better known as La Cicciolina. Furthermore, the DC’s reputation was severely damaged in the early 1980s by a series of scandals, notably the furore surrounding the activities of the P2 Masonic Lodge, when links were discovered between corrupt bankers, senior DC members, and fanatical right-wing groups. As its popularity fell, the DC was forced to offer the premiership to politicians from other parties. In 1981 Giovanni Spadolini of the Republicans became the ﬁrst non-DC prime minister since the war, and in 1983 Bettino Craxi was installed as the ﬁrst premier from the PSI, a position he held for four years. Even through the upheavals of the 1970s the national income of Italy continued to grow, and there developed a national obsession with Il Sorpasso, a term signifying the country’s overtaking of France and Britain in the economic league table. Experts disagreed as to whether Il Sorpasso actually happened (most thought it hadn’t), and calculations were complicated by the huge scale of tax evasion and other illicit ﬁnancial dealings in Italy. All strata of society were involved in the withholding of money from central government, but the ruling power in this economia sommersa (submerged economy) was, and to a certain extent still is, the Maﬁa, whose contacts penetrate to the highest levels in Rome. The most traumatic proof of the Maﬁa’s inﬁltration of the political hierarchy came in May 1992, with the murders of anti-Maﬁa judges Giovanni Falcone and Paolo Borsellino, whose killers could only have penetrated the judges’ security with the help of inside information.

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Italy today: Mani Pulite and the Berlusconi effect

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The murders of the immensely respected Falcone and Borsellino marked a faultline in the political history of modern Italy, and the late 1980s and early 1990s saw the rise of a number of new political parties, as people became disillusioned with the old DC-led consensus. One was the right-wing Lega Nord (Northern League), whose autocratic leader, Umberto Bossi, capitalized on concerns that the hard-working, law-abiding North was supporting the corrupt South, while the Fascist MSI, renamed the Alleanza Nazionale (AN), or National Alliance, and now a wide coalition of right-wingers led by the persuasive Gianfranco Fini, has gained ground in recent years. In 1992 the new government of Giuliano Amato – a politician untainted by any hint of corruption – instigated the biggest round-up of Maﬁa members in nearly a decade, leading to the arrest of Salvatore “Toto” Riina, the Maﬁa capo di tutti capi (boss of bosses) and the man widely believed to have been behind the Falcone and Borsellino killings. The arrest of Riina followed the testimony of numerous supergrasses, who also implicated key members of the establishment in Maﬁa activities, including the former prime minister Giulio Andreotti, who was brought to trial. Bettino Craxi once called Andreotti a fox, adding “sooner or later all foxes end up as fur coats”, but it was Craxi himself who was one of the ﬁrst to fall from grace. Craxi was at the centre of the powerful Socialist establishment that ran the key city of Milan, when in February 1992 a minor party official was arrested on corruption charges. This represented just the tip of a long-established culture of kickbacks and bribes that went right to the top of the Italian political establishment, not just in Milan but across the entire country, and was nicknamed Tangentopoli (“Bribesville”). By the end of that year thousands were under arrest and what came to be known as the Mani Pulite or “Clean Hands” investigation, led by the crusading Milan judge, Antonio di Pietro, was under way. The established Italian parties, most notably the Christian Democrats and the Socialists, were almost entirely wiped out in the municipal elections of 1993, and the national elections of 1994 saw yet another political force emerge to ﬁll the power vacuum: the centre-right Forza Italia or “Come on Italy”, led by the media mogul Silvio Berlusconi, who used the power of his TV stations to build support, and swept to power as prime minister in a populist alliance with Bossi’s Lega Nord and the fascist National Alliance. The fact that Berlusconi was not a politician was perhaps his greatest asset, and most Italians, albeit brieﬂy, saw this as a new beginning – the end of the old, corrupt regime, and the birth of a truly modern Italian state. However, as one of the country’s top northern industrialists, and a former crony of Craxi, Berlusconi was as bound up with the old ways as anyone. Not only did he resist all attempts to reduce the scope of his media business, with which, as prime minister, there was a clear conﬂict of interest, but in time he himself came under investigation concerning the tax dealings of his Fininvest group. At the end of 1994 Berlusconi was himself forced to resign after the withdrawal of Bossi’s Lega Nord from the coalition, and various factions took turns at governing until the formation of a broad centre-left alliance in 1996, known as the ulivo (“olive tree”), led by Romano Prodi, head of the small Partito Popolare Italiano, which in order to gain a majority in the Chamber of Deputies formed alliances with most of the other parties, including the Lega Nord.

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In January 1999, Craxi was convicted with twenty others of corruption and sentenced to ﬁve years in prison, dying a year later in exile in Tunisia. The most inﬂuential public ﬁgure to be tried in the late 1990s, however, was Berlusconi, who was convicted and sentenced in August 1998 to two years and nine months in jail. Perhaps not surprisingly, Berlusconi has since been acquitted of a number of the charges against him, and, although further offences have come to light (bribing the judiciary among them), the ongoing proceedings have served more as a background to his resurgent political career than anything else. Compared with the turmoil of the early 1990s, the political situation had reached a fairly even plateau. The Christian Democratic party had dissolved; the shift from proportional representation to a ﬁrst-past-the-post system had begun; and a trend towards two large coalitions – one on the centre-left and the other on the centre-right – indicated a major break from the fragmented, multiparty political landscape of the postwar era. In October 1998, the relatively prolonged period of stability ended when the Prodi government was ousted, but the left coalition carried on for another three years under a succession of leaders – Massimo D’Alema, Giuliano Amato and the slick and successful ex-mayor of Rome Francesco Rutelli – until the April 2001 elections saw them crushingly defeated by Berlusconi’s Forza Italia. In a televised interview Berlusconi made an unofficial agreement with the Italian people (“contratto con gli italiani”) whereby he promised to accomplish various economic reforms including lowering taxes and increasing employment. However, with the Italian economy at zero growth, high inﬂation and the highest debts in the EU, he failed to fulﬁl any of his electoral promises, although a number of bills

Take me to your leader Perhaps the one thing the Italians aren’t very good at its politics. They’ve had 62 different governments since World War II, and the country was embroiled in a series of corruption scandals in the early 1990s that led to a shake-up of the entire system. Nonetheless Italians still don’t trust politicians, so perhaps they have the leader they deserve in media tycoon Silvio Berlusconi, ﬁrst elected as prime minister in 1994 and currently prime minister for the third time. The gaffes, scandals and sleaze that have characterized his time in power are now the things for which contemporary Italy is most famous. A notorious and shameless womanizer, Berlusconi was almost brought down in 2009 when a series of prostitutes went public on their relationships with him (a number of tapes released by one conﬁrmed that the prime minister, 72, didn’t use condoms). He survived as prime minister (Italians are relatively tolerant of sexual dalliances) but not as a husband – his wife Veronica Lario announced she was leaving him shortly after. Berlusconi has also got into trouble when representing Italy abroad, famously accusing a German MEP of acting like a Nazi camp guard; and at home his battle with the Italian judiciary (“a cancerous growth” in his view), combined with, mostly successful, attempts to change laws to protect him from being tried for corruption, have arguably occupied more of his political time than any other issues. Unlike most modern politicians he just doesn’t seem to care what people think, which in Italy – a country of notorious naysayers – has helped to make him a popular leader. As for the fact that as head of a media business and prime minister he virtually controls all mainstream television (and has clearly used this to his own advantage), he simply says: “If I, taking care of everyone’s interests, also take care of my own, you can’t talk about a conﬂict of interest.” For sheer chutzpah, then, he casts the faceless suits of the rest of Italian politics into the shade; whether he is the leader Italy needs is another question.

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were passed that conveniently protected his own business interests and thwarted any attempts by the judiciary to pursue charges of corruption. Berlusconi was also condemned by many Italians for his mismanagement of events at the G8 Summit in Genoa in 2001, during which demonstrator Carlo Giuliani was shot dead by a carabiniere. His support for the 2003 invasion of Iraq and his participation in the so-called “Coalition of the Willing”, along with the deployment of Italian troops in Iraq, fuelled further disquiet; in 2006 Berlusconi was forced to call early elections and on April 9 he was narrowly defeated by Romano Prodi. However, Prodi’s centre-left government was a disaster, lasting less than two years and beset by crisis after crisis, and Berlusconi swept back to power in April 2008, easily beating his main rival, the ex-mayor of Rome, Walter Veltroni. The media tycoon’s third spell in power, at the head of a centre-right coalition with Gianfranco Fini has, if nothing else, provided the country with a measure of political stability, but it’s not been without its difficulties. The L’Aquila earthquake of April 2009 killed more than three hundred people and the thirty thousand or so it left homeless were advised by Berlusconi to treat it as a “weekend’s camping”. A month later, after a series of allegations regarding the procurement of prostitutes his wife announced their divorce, and in December 2009 the prime minister was famously attacked by a man with a souvenir model of Milan cathedral – an episode which evoked uncharacteristic waves of sympathy across the nation. But the government remains as fragile as ever; it narrowly survived a vote of no conﬁdence in August 2010, and perhaps the only reason it staggers on is that there is no credible alternative. As Berlusconi himself modestly admits, he is “the Jesus Christ of politics… a patient victim, I put up with everyone, I sacriﬁce myself for everyone”. Where on earth would Italy be without him?

Italian art

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ick up any history of Western art and you’ll ﬁnd the biggest chapter by far will be on Italy. The country’s contribution to the pantheon of creativity through the past three thousand years is immense, whether it’s the legacy of the Romans and the early Christian era or the enormous and unprecedented achievements of the Renaissance in Florence and Rome. It’s the reason many people visit Italy in the ﬁrst place, and this short history is designed to give you the most basic of backgrounds to enhance your trip.

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A sensible way to begin any account of Italian art is with the Etruscans, who lived in central Italy – in Etruria – from around 900 BC until their incorporation into the Roman world in 88 BC. The Romans borrowed heavily from their civilization, and thus in many ways the influence of the Etruscans is still felt today: our alphabet, for example, is based on the Etruscan system; and bishops’ crooks and the “fasces” symbol, of a bundle of rods with an axe – found, among other places, behind the speaker’s rostrum in the US House of Representatives – are just two other Etruscan symbols that endure. The Etruscans were also master craftsmen, working in terracotta, gold and bronze, and accomplished carvers in stone, and it is these skills – together with their obvious sensuality and the ease with which they enjoyed life – that make their civilization so beguiling. A lot of Etruscan objects have survived from tombs, particularly those found in the sites of Tarquinia and Cerveteri – terracotta sculptures such as the sculpture of the married couple or Apollo and Hercules in the Villa Giulia museum in Rome, or bronzes like the Orator and the Chimera in the archeological museum in Florence.

The Romans The militaristic Romans, who wrested control of the region from the Etruscans, are not usually known as great artists. There were great builders, certainly, and the wall paintings and mosaics of Pompeii and Herculaneum demonstrate that there were gifted artists around. But the fact is that a great deal of Roman art and sculpture is in fact copied from ancient Greek originals – most famously the Laocoön and Apollo Belvedere in the Vatican or any number of sculptures in the Palazzo Nuovo of the Capitoline Museums in Rome. There’s no doubting the skill of Roman sculptors who re-created these works, though, and the Romans as a whole were proliﬁc creators of sculptural art. Above all they were good portraitists, and there are lots of likenesses of both ordinary people and most of the great emperors still with us today, including a huge hoard in the Vatican Museums, as well as fantastic sarcophagi portraying battle scenes in relief – a medium which was also used to adorn triumphal arches and other architectural features. 1003

Early Christian and Byzantine art

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The early Christians borrowed the tendency to decorate sarcophagi with relief sculptures from the Romans, though by now these depicted fundamental Christian themes like the shepherd and the lamb, Christ enthroned or the alpha and omega symbols. Early Christian paintings were done in the catacombs and other burial places, mainly depictions of saints but again often borrowing colour and other styles from the Romans. However, mosaics were the more commonly used medium as the decoration in churches, especially during the reign of the Emperor Justinian, whose period in power during the middle of the sixth century marks the high point of early Byzantine art. These usually depicted a group of saints lined up with the church’s donor, centring on a ﬁgure of Christ enthroned in glory, for example in the basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore in Rome, whose mosaics are a ﬁfth-century comic strip of the Old Testament, or, a little later, in the new Christian Roman capital of Ravenna, where the sixth-century basilicas of San Vitale and Sant’Apollinaire Nuovo hold stupendous cycles of mosaics.

The Middle Ages The medium of mosaic stayed in use for hundreds of years, and indeed was the principal method used to decorate the basilica of San Marco in Venice (see p.275) in the thirteenth century. However, mosaic was an inevitably monumental and static medium, and before long frescoes became preferred in churches, albeit following the rather stiff and formal styles of the mosaicists, along with panel paintings depicting Christ or the Madonna and a group of saints. Nicola Pisano (1220–1285) was the ﬁrst great sculptor of the Middle Ages in what we now call Italy, a native of Pisa and famous for his work on the pulpit in Pisa’s baptistry, whose sculptural complexity bears comparison with the best pre-Christian sarcophagi. He passed on his talent to his son, Giovanni Pisano (1250–1315), who continued to work in the same Gothic tradition but with more ﬂuidity and skill, creating pulpits in both Pistoia and Pisa cathedrals as well as a series of statues for the facade of Siena’s cathedral and another pulpit inside. One of Nicola Pisano’s assistants on this, Arnolfo di Cambio (1240–1310) was also very active at this time. He produced the famous statue of St Peter in St Peter’s in Rome, whose foot is worn smooth by worshippers, and developed the design for funerary tombs which was followed for the next couple of centuries, but he’s perhaps best-known as the architect responsible for the construction of the cathedral in Florence in the late 1200s. At about the same time, Pietro Cavallini (1250–1330) introduced a new level of realism into the mosaics he designed and the frescoes he painted, moving away somewhat from the stiff Byzantine ﬁgures people were used to – as evidenced by the frescoes in the basilica of St Francis in Assisi, in the church of Santa Cecilia in Rome, and some fragmentary frescoes in Naples. Cimabue, too (1240–1302), was a pioneer of his time, name-checked by Dante in his Purgatorio as being eclipsed in talent only by his pupil, Giotto di Bondone (1267–1337) – no disgrace as Giotto, as he is now known, was certainly the greatest artist of this time, widely regarded as the link between Gothic art and everything else that followed. This is due to the fact that he was the ﬁrst to truly break away from the heavily stylized forms of the Byzantine and Gothic era and give his ﬁgures proper, human form. His frescoes in the Scrovegni Chapel in Padua are justiﬁably famous, and have a humane power

that makes them one of the great unmissable sights of Italy, although most other works by him are lost or disputed – apart from his frescoes in the basilica of St Francis in Assisi, an altarpiece in the Uffizi, a cruciﬁx in Rimini and one or two other small-scale works. Despite the inﬂuence of Giotto, the dominant school of painting at the time was in fact in Siena, headed up by Duccio di Buoninsegna (1255–1318) and Simone Martini (1284–1344), both of whom followed a more traditional path, engaging with the more formal Byzantine style to some extent but making it into a more reﬁned and elegant style of their own. Duccio’s masterpiece is probably his Maestá, currently in the museum of Siena’s cathedral, which was so admired on its completion that it was carried around the town in a procession. Simone Martini was a pupil of Duccio and painted the same subject in the town hall of Siena; he is also known for his frescoes in the church of St Francis in Assisi and his Annunciation in the Uffizi.

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The ﬁfteenth century in Italy really belongs to what we now call the Renaissance, a remarkable time, centred on Florence and Tuscany in particular. In architecture this involved an attempt to get back to classical ideas coupled with ingenious new building methods and techniques, while in the visual arts there was a move away from a more iconic style of painting towards an approach that placed man centre-stage in as realistic a fashion as possible, with perspective, elements of portraiture and landscape. At the same time artists in general began to gain a new respect, moving gradually away from being considered as mere artisans to take their place as members of the professional classes. If the Renaissance begins anywhere it’s with Lorenzo Ghiberti (1378–1455), whose victory in a competition sponsored by the Florentine authorities to design the doors of the city’s baptistry arguably kickstarted the movement, and occupied the artist for the best part of the next ﬁfty years, with a design that exhibited more drama, naturalism and perspective than had been previously seen, and spawning a legacy of Florentine sculptors who would blaze a trail through the rest of the ﬁfteenth century. The runner-up in the competition, Filippo Brunelleschi (1377–1446), went on to specialize in architecture, and added a dome to the city’s cathedral that would prove to be one of the engineering wonders of the century (see p.430), while Ghiberti’s pupil Donatello (1386–1466) became arguably the greatest sculptor of his age, with an appreciation of nature and an ability to render it in marble that upstaged everyone who had gone before. His skill is manifest in numerous examples around the country, but most notably in his early sculptures of the Evangelists in Orsanmichele in Florence, now split between the church and the Bargello, where his iconic ﬁgure of David also resides. In 1425 Donatello began to work with another sculptor, Michelozzo (1396–1472), producing the tomb of Cardinal Brancacci in Naples, among other things; Michelozzo also worked on Ghiberti’s bronze doors. Another sculptor who went in for the baptistry doors competition was Jacopo della Quercia (1374–1438), a Sienese artist who was inﬂuenced by the work of Nicola Pisano and Arnolfo di Cambio. He is responsible for the Fonte Gaia in Siena’s main square, and work in the churches of San Frediano and San Petronio, in Lucca and Bologna respectively. The invention of perspective is sometimes credited to Paolo Uccello (1397– 1475), whose most famous work, in the National Gallery in London, shows the foreshortened body of the “soldier who died for perspective” in his Battle Scene there. But Uccello was more interested in perspective for its own sake (hence a

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painting like this) rather than using it to create more realistic pictures, and it was Masaccio (1401–1428) who in fact developed it properly – most potently in his fresco of the Trinity in the church of Santa Maria Novella, whose extraordinary depth and realism were revolutionary at the time. His contemporary Masolino da Panicale (1383–1447) was another veteran of Ghiberti’s doors, but he painted in a more traditional style that harkened back to his Gothic predecessors. Masaccio’s only pupil, Fra’ Filippo Lippi (1406–1469), was a clear follower of his master, but he was inﬂuenced by the Flemish masters too, as we can see in his dramatic and naturalistic frescoes in Prato’s cathedral. At the same time, Fra Angelico (1395–1455) painted more monumental and in some ways more staid creations, though with a greater emphasis on colour – as you can see if you visit the home of his greatest works, painted in the monastery at which he was a Dominican monk – San Marco in Florence. Meanwhile, in Verona, Fra Angelico’s contemporary Antonio Pisanello (1395–1455) was decorating some of the principal churches of his home town in a well-developed Gothic style, along with a series of frescoes in the Palazzo Ducale in Mantua. One of the painters closest in style to Masaccio was Domenico Ghirlandaio (1449–94), whose frescoes adorn the church of Santa Maria Novella among other churches in Florence. However, perhaps the greatest of the next generation of Renaissance artists was Luca Signorelli (1445–1523), who in fact painted Fra Angelico’s portrait (as well as his own) into his amazing Last Judgement, in a chapel in Orvieto cathedral – a work which is said to have inﬂuenced Michelangelo’s later work on the same subject in the Sistine Chapel. To the south of Florence, in Arezzo, another contemporary of Mantegna, Piero della Francesca (1410–1492), was experimenting with perspective in the same way, but his work today looks less archaic, almost modern, in its outlook compared to others of the time, with calm, understated colours and cool sense of form – best seen in his series of paintings depicting the Legend of the True Cross in Arezzo’s church of San Francesco. Piero della Francesca was a big inﬂuence on the Umbrian painter, Melozzo da Forli (1438–1494), who worked in Rome in the last two decades of the ﬁfteenth century, decorating a number of churches, including Santi Apostoli and San Marco – the latter including a famous picture showing his patron Pope Sixtus IV that’s now in the Vatican Pinacoteca. Among fellow Umbrians, Pietro Perugino (1446– 1524) was known for his harmoniously composed paintings – less full of drama than some of his contemporaries, but theatrically staged nonetheless, as serene, beautifully coloured tableaux, that almost epitomize the symmetrical beauty of much of Renaissance art. His assistant, Pinturrichio (1454–1513), also produced beautifully composed works of great form and colour, but made no attempt at any sort of profound vision; some of his best-known and most accessible work is in the church of Santa Maria del Popolo in Rome. Andrea Mantegna (1431–1506), who worked in the north of Italy, in Padua and then Mantua, was one of the most inventive practitioners of the new Renaissance techniques, peopling his paintings with living, breathing human beings and setting them against backdrops that had realism and perspective – much more so, say, than his contemporary Benozzo Gozzoli (1421–1497), whose frescoes in the chapel in Florence’s Palazzo Medici-Ricciardi are more decorative than naturalistic. Some of Mantegna’s best work is in the Palazzo Ducale in Mantua, where he painted a series of marvellous family frescoes for the Gonzagas. Towards the end of the ﬁfteenth century, Sandro Botticelli (1445–1510), too, developed a style of his own, apprenticed at a young age to Fra’ Filippo Lippi but increasingly creating pictures which married naturalism with elegance. He also worked as much for wealthy merchants as the Church, painting canvases rather than

frescoes, and as such his work is smaller-scale and less concerned with monumental religious themes than others, and overall more decorative, using ancient Greek and Roman stories as his subject matter instead. Botticelli’s best-known contemporary was Leonardo da Vinci (1452–1519), a Florentine who died in France and is now known as the ultimate “Renaissance Man”, as comfortable designing weaponry or writing a learned thesis as with drawing or painting. Precious little work has survived from Leonardo, partly because he was so busy with other projects, and partly because he insisted on deciding when something was completed himself, and so works were often left unﬁnished or never delivered. The Last Supper in Milan’s Santa Maria delle Grazie is probably his most famous piece of work in Italy, and is incredibly naturalistic for its time, not only realistically depicting the characters in the story, but actually telling the story, too.

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At the end of the ﬁfteenth century the emphasis shifted from Florence, to Rome and to Venice. The High Renaissance is generally used to describe a period of time during the ﬁrst half of the sixteenth century, when all the ideas of the Renaissance were in tune, and there was a group of artists – led by Michelangelo and Raphael in Rome, and Titian in Venice – who were at the height of their powers, interpreting the humanist principles of the time with an almost divine virtuosity and skill, until the mid-century backlash started with the more empty showiness of Mannerism. At the turn of the sixteenth century Ghirlandaio’s studio took on a young and hungry Florentine painter called Michelangelo Buonarotti (1475–1564), who from the outset was something special, studying anatomy so as to get the draughtsmanship of his ﬁgures exactly right, as can be seen in his early – and renowned – ﬁgure of David in the Uffizi. Michelangelo preferred sculpture to painting, but his fame quickly spread, and he was still a relatively young man when he was called to Rome to decorate the Sistine Chapel for Pope Julius II in 1506 – a feat which took four years, and to this day is perhaps the most heroic and accomplished single piece of work that any painter has achieved. He was an artist who never let up, and it’s possible to follow the development of his style around Italy, taking in early works like the ﬁgure of Bacchus in Florence’s Bargello and his pietà in St Peter’s in Rome right up to the Sistine Chapel’s dark Last Judgement, which he painted over thirty years after the ceiling. It’s perhaps testament to Michelangelo’s originality and uncompromising approach that both Sistine Chapel works caused an equal level of outcry at the time. His contemporary Raphael (1483–1520), a native of Perugia, with Michelangelo represents the high point of the Renaissance, the point at which the era’s ideas and inventions with regards to form, light, naturalism and composition all converged. Unlike Michelangelo, Raphael was an out-and-out painter, and naturally he was called to work for the pope as well, his best work probably being the suite of rooms he decorated for the same Pope Julius II in the Vatican Palace. It seems almost incredible that these two great artists were for a period working in the same building at the same time, creating arguably the two greatest pieces of Renaissance painting ever within a few yards of each other. Yet that is what happened, although Raphael enjoyed a much shorter life than Michelangelo, and works by him are scarce by comparison. However, his later work in the nearby Villa Farnesina in Rome is also among his best, and there are paintings by him in a number of different Italian galleries. Venice was a booming city at this time, and it ﬁrst embraced the Renaissance in the elderly ﬁgure of Giovanni Bellini (1430–1516). He had been inﬂuenced by Andrea Mantegna, who had married his sister, and became known for introducing

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The sixteenth century

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naturalistic details into his religious paintings. He also headed up a large workshop, one that was responsible for turning out the next generation of Venetian painters, including Sebastiano del Piombo, Giorgione and Titian. Giorgione (1476–1510) died young and there’s hardly any work by him in existence now, but what there is marks him out as one of the greatest Venetian painters, in particular a mysterious painting that has been named The Tempest due to the fact that no one really knows what it depicts or what it is about. It was a revolutionary painting for its time, principally in the way it incorporates nature into the composition, almost as a character in its own right. The second great Venetian painter of this time was Titian (1487–1576), a talent so revered that it was said that even the Holy Roman Emperor Charles V had stopped to pick up one of his brushes – a story which perhaps says as much about the evolving status of artists during the Renaissance as it does about Titian. Titian was a colourist, and brilliant, too, at composition, and he rewrote the rules of both in his great painting of The Assumption in the Frari church in Venice. He was also a great portraitist, as can be seen in his depiction of the Farnese pope Paul III, which hangs in the Capodimonte Museum in Naples, as well as many other great portraits he painted during his long careeer. Sebastian del Piombo (1485–1547) is thought to have ﬁnished some of Giorgione’s paintings after he died, and he also worked with Raphael on the Villa Farnesina, but he became closest of all to Michelangelo, whose inﬂuence can be seen in his later works, for example the two that hang in the Trinitá dei Monti church in Rome. Of the Venetians that followed this group, Lorenzo Lotto (1480–1556) followed in the footsteps of Giorgione, as did his friend Palma il Vecchio (1480– 1528), although it’s Tintoretto who stands out. His distinctive, dramatic style preﬁgured the Baroque with its theatrical lighting and dashing, almost unﬁnished style – all a far cry from the cool delivery of Titian, but typical of the time in his determination to break free of the dominant Renaissance approach and forge a style of his own. A proliﬁc artist, his work can be found everywhere, all over Italy, but the four paintings he did for the Scuola di San Marco in Venice are among his best, as are those in the Scuola di San Rocco, also in Venice. The third great sixteenth-century Venetian painter was arguably Paolo Veronese, who was also a great stylist, painting big narrative works that decorated the Palladian Villa Barbaro in Maser and the church of San Giovanni e Paolo in Venice. Meanwhile in Parma, Correggio (1489–1534) was busily decorating the churches and the cathedral in a soft ﬂowing style in which he perfected his sotto in su technique, in which ﬁgures are depicted on domes and ceiling as if ﬂoating in the sky – an effect which was to be taken up with a vengeance in the decades to come.

Mannerism

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Veronese and Correggio worked towards the end of the sixteenth century, and in some way their styles anticipate what has become known as Mannerism, a somewhat derogatory term derived from the Italian word maniera or “style”. This alluded to the fact that the artists who followed on from the Renaissance greats had to ﬁnd a way of distinguishing themselves, which they did by using increasingly ﬂashy techniques of perspective and draughtsmanship – all style and no substance, if you like. Mannerist paintings tended to go for cheap and immediate effects – in colour, subject matter and delivery – and as such they preﬁgure the equally dramatic Baroque era that was to follow. Perhaps the ultimate Mannerist painter is Giulio Romano (1499–1546), whose frescoes in Mantua’s Palazzo del Te are still quite shocking today. But other painters fall into this post-Renaissance category, for example Francesco Parmigianino (1503–1540), who worked alongside Correggio in Parma and is probably best-known for a painting that has become

known as the Madonna with the Long Neck, in the Uffizi in Florence, a very elegant painting that typiﬁes the Mannerist approach to the human form. Other so-called Mannerist painters include Giorgio Vasari (1511–1574), whose work is common in Italy – he was quite proliﬁc – although he is probably best-known for his biographies of the various Renaissance artists, from which we know a great deal about these men and their time. Agnolo Bronzino (1503–72) was another gifted Mannerist painter who worked mainly in Florence and concentrated on portraiture. His contemporary, Benvenuto Cellini (1500–71) was an artist turned writer who made beautiful pieces in bronze and gold that still survive today but who is more renowned for his racy autobiography which describes his life in Rome during the sixteenth century. Giovanni da Bologna or Giambologna (1529–1608), as he’s better known, was a Florentine sculptor who also worked in bronze and marble, and whose aim to produce a piece that could be viewed from all angles was Mannerist to its core, and can be seen at its best in Florence’s Bargello.

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The end of the sixteenth century saw upheaval in Europe, with the Reformation gaining pace in northern Europe and the Catholic Church forced to retrench in its southern heartlands, giving way to another new style that got stuck with a derogatory name, the Baroque, a term which literally meant grotesque, and was coined to describe the grand and theatrical style in painting and architecture that swept Europe at the beginning of the seventeenth century. The ﬁrst artist of the Baroque age was perhaps Annibale Carracci (1560–1609), of Bologna, whose work in the Palazzo Farnese, depicting a series of mythological scenes, preﬁgures the style with its overtones of fantasy, illusion and mild titillation. Guido Reni (1575–1642), also from Bologna, focused more on religious themes, but with a sentimentality that made his pictures popular everywhere and his work much in demand. Less sentimental but equally dramatic, the works of Michelangelo Merisi da Caravaggio (d.1610) have stood the test of time better, as has his reputation, perhaps because his story ﬁts the archetype of artist-as-outlaw that’s very much in tune with modern tastes. Nonetheless his pictures were strikingly original at the time, using models from the streets for religious ﬁgures and making street life, clothes, and the nitty-gritty of the human form, warts and all, a ﬁt subject for religious art – as can be seen in his paintings in the church of Santa Maria del Popolo and other churches in Rome, where he worked for much of his life. Caravaggio was a great dramatist, composing his pictures in a theatrical manner that was increasingly typical of the times. He was also a superb technician, particularly with regard to light, and perhaps the greatest exponent of a technique known as chiaroscuro – basically the interplay of light and dark on the canvas. This style was taken up with relish by the artists of the Baroque era, and done to death by some of them, not least a group of painters from Naples – Luca Giordano (1632–1705), Massimo Stanzione (1585–1656) and Battistello Caracciolo (d.1637) – who raised the city’s status in the art world at a time when it was becoming one of the most populous and important cities in Europe. Giordano in particular was a massively proliﬁc painter, and you can’t move for his work in Naples, though perhaps the best place to see it is the Cappella del Pio Monte della Misericordia, where one of his ﬁnest paintings hangs alongside a great work by Caravaggio, both done for the same church. Hot on the heels of these artists in Naples was Francesco Solimena (1657–1747), a Neapolitan late-Baroque painter who was hugely successful, and whose work is also ubiquitous, but at its best in the city’s Gesù Nuovo.

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A pupil of Carracci, Domenichino (1581–1641) also worked on the Farnese Palace, and decorated the church of Sant’Andrea delle Valle in Rome with another student of Carracci, Giovanni Lanfranco (1582–1647), though the two fell out shortly after this, after which Domenichino went to Naples and relative obscurity. Lanfranco meanwhile went on to bigger and better things, becoming an expert in sotto in su technique and as such landing commissions for all kinds of domes and ceilings, both in Rome and in Naples. Another follower of Carracci, and also from Bologna, Giovanni Francesco Barbieri, known as Guercino or “the squinter” because he was cross-eyed (1591–1666), fell out with Reni, who accused him of stealing all his ideas, but who still managed to produce a fair body of work, most famous of which is his St Petronilla altarpiece which he painted for St Peter’s but which now hangs in Rome’s Capitoline Museums. Working alongside Lanfranco in Rome, Pietro da Cortona (1596–1669) was another great illusionist, whose ceiling in the Palazzo Barberini in Rome is perhaps the ultimate in Baroque sotto in su trickery – a mass of writhing ﬁgures, clouds and drapery that are at once in the room with you and at the same time escaping into the sky beyond. The Barberini pope, Urban VIII, was the greatest pope of the Baroque age, not least because he was the patron of Gianlorenzo Bernini (1598–1680), who was without question the greatest Baroque artist of all, producing a lifetime’s work of sculpture and architecture that more than any other deﬁnes what Baroque really means. The best of his small-scale statues – in Rome’s Galleria Borghese – are virtuosic pieces of dynamic sculpture, intensely theatrical, that invite you to study them from all angles, while Bernini’s work for Rome’s church of Santa Maria in Vitorria, depicting the Ecstasy of St Theresa, is the very essence of Baroque drama. All those who came into contact with Bernini were inﬂuenced by him, and Giovanni Baciccia (1639–1709) was no exception, taking on the illusionistic challenge of the age and decorating the Gesù church in Rome with a vigour and invention that rivalled even Cortona’s Palazzo Barberini work. Andrea Pozzo (1642–1709), too, took the style’s illusionism to an extreme, decorating another Jesuit Rome church, Sant’Ignazio, with one of the biggest fakes of the era – painting in a trompe l’oeil dome which from one point in the nave looks exactly like the real thing.

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The late Baroque style became what is known as the Rococo in the early eighteenth century – basically an ornate style of interior decoration that is a toned-down and more domestic version of the Baroque. By comparison to what had gone before, the period, and indeed the eighteenth century in general, was not a great era for Italian art, partly because interior decoration was indeed what artists increasingly came to specialize in, working for the aristocracy and the wealthy merchant classes rather than their traditional patron, the Church. Landscape painting became popular, as seen in the Venetian scenes of Francesco Guardi (1712–93) and Antonio Canaletto (1697– 1768), the latter of whom churned out views of Venice that were extremely popular, though he never reproduced the same quality when painting other cities. Guardi, too, painted only Venice, though with a more impressionistic style that is maybe more suited to modern tastes. Perhaps the greatest Italian Rococo artist, however, was Giambattista Tiepolo (1696–1770), whose ﬂamboyant frescoes were sought after in palaces and castles all over Italy, although they were essentially fantasy works, used as decoration rather than for any deeper meaning – an approach that was ably continued by his son Giandomenico Tiepolo (1727–1804).

Later eighteenth-century Italian art took many forms – the architectural fantasies and complex etchings of Giambattista Piranesi (1720–78), for example, or the Venetian genre scenes of Pietro Longhi (1702–85). But ultimately the style that caught on was the one that prevailed over the rest of Europe, Neoclassicism – a movement inspired by the art and architecture of the ancient world, which at the time was being excavated in sites around Rome and in Pompeii and Herculaneum, and which for most people meant a return to truly civilized artistic ideals. Antonio Canova (1757–1822) was the best-known and most proliﬁc Italian Neoclassical artist; he produced a huge body of work, although he is perhaps most famous for his renderings of Napoleon at the beginning of the nineteenth century, and in particular of Napoleon’s famously sluttish sister, Pauline, in the Galleria Borghese.

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The nineteenth century, too, was not an especially auspicious time for Italian art, and the international focus was by now firmly in France and elsewhere. After Canova, the mantle of Neoclassical sculpture had been taken up by Pietro Canonica (1869–1959), a Rome-based sculptor who specialized in civic and public sculpture as well as busts of the rich and famous, and Vincenzo Gemito (1859–1929), known for his genre studies of Naples lowlife. Another Neapolitan artist, Domenico Morelli (1823–1901), also specialized in historical and religious themes, passing on his penchant for drama to his student Antonio Mancini (1852– 1930). Mancini quickly developed a style of his own which had more in common with the realist movement that by this time was sweeping through France and other parts of Europe. Shortly after, around the middle of the nineteenth century, a group of painters based in Tuscany, the Macchiaioli movement, also tried to get away from a more traditional approach, preﬁguring to some extent the French Impressionists, though they were much less inﬂuential. They saw their brief as loosening the chains of ﬁgurative painting while also depicting real-life themes, and one of their best-known ﬁgures, Giovannia Fattori (1825–1908), while initially concentrating on historical scenes and portraits, eventually became a painter of landscapes in a style that was inﬂuenced by the French Barbizon school. Giovanni Fattori taught the young Amedeo Modigliani (1884–1920), a painter from Livorno who lived fast and died young after he decided to ditch the relatively wholesome landscapes of the Macchiaioli to concentrate on idiosyncratic depictions of the lowlife of Paris, where he died at the age of 35. The big homegrown Italian movement of the twentieth century, however, was the Futurists, a quasi-fascist group of abstract painters led by the poet Filippo Marinetti, who believed in the purity of the modern world and all that went with it, including war, weaponry and in particular World War I, which unfortunately claimed their most talented painter Umberto Boccioni (1882–1916) as a victim. Other Futurists included Giacomo Balla (1871–1958) and Carlo Carra (1881–1966), and you can see much of their work in Rome’s Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna, along with selected works by perhaps the greatest and most inﬂuential Italian artist of the twentieth century, Giorgio de Chirico (1888–1978), who with Carra set up the Metaﬁsicamovement after World War I – a reaction against Cubism and abstraction and a precursor of Dadaism and the Surrealist movement and work of Magritte. De Chirico is known for his strange dreamlike landscapes – ﬁgurative and yet unreal – which display an almost dysfunctional vision of the modern world.

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The nineteenth century to the modern day

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Italian architecture

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he architecture of Italy perhaps doesn’t dominate the Western world in the same way the country’s art does, but the fact remains that tracing the history of Italy’s buildings is akin to tracing that of Europe in general. The Renaissance and Baroque periods are the most distinctive, but buildings and architecture from all eras make up the fabric of the Italian landscape – more, perhaps, than any other European country.

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The ﬁrst great Italian builders were the Greeks, who during the Hellenistic age – between the third and ﬁrst century BC – left an indelible mark on the Italian regions they occupied. Greek architecture followed a very rigid system, one that has been subsequently followed on and off by just about every architectural era at some point, so it’s hard to overstate their importance, which was based on the three classical orders: the Doric, the oldest and lowest, Ionic, the middle order, and Corinthian, the highest and most ﬂorid. You can ﬁnd examples of each in the various temples the Greeks left in the south – at Paestum, just south of Naples, and at Agrigento and Siracusa in Sicily, the latter of which has been incorporated into the city’s cathedral. The Greeks built small theatres too, two examples of which remain in Sicily, in Taormina and Siracusa. At the same time as the Greeks were leaving their mark on the south, the Etruscans occupied parts of central Italy, though they didn’t leave much in the way of architecture apart from a series of necropolises, at Cerveteri and Tarquinia in Lazio, and a third-century-BC gateway in Volterra in Tuscany, part of a set of walls that once encircled this ancient Etruscan city.

The Romans

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The Romans were great and ingenious builders, and they moved architectural forms on from the Greeks, still using columns and pediments but often making these more decorative than supportive. That they could do this was down to the invention of concrete, which allowed the Romans more ﬂexibility in what they built, and their use of the arch, the innate strength of which allowed them to build more solid yet more diverse structures. As with everything else, the Romans were less interested in aesthetics than the Greeks, and favoured function above form at all times; they also liked to build on a large scale, preferring big, grandiose, imperial structures that showed off the power of their system and empire. The Pantheon and Colosseum in Rome are just two examples of this love of size for its own sake, but really any Roman site demonstrates it. The Roman love of order is also evident in the planned nature of their towns, which had their random, poor quarters but whose commercial heart, around the main forum, had a uniform style across the empire. You can see this in Rome itself, and in the ruins at nearby Ostia Antica, while settlements like Pompeii and Herculaneum demonstrate how rigid the Roman street grid could be, with three horizontal main streets – the decumanus inferior, major and superior – crossed at right angles by other main streets or cardos. The forums were surrounded by shops and

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The early Christian and Byzantine era

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businesses, law courts usually in the form of a basilica – a long building with aisles either side and at least one temple – usually a rectangular colonnaded building topped with a triangular pediment with steps leading up to the main entrance. The Romans also built for their leisure time, constructing theatres and more usually amphitheatres for the staging of gladiatorial games and other spectacles. The Colosseum in Rome is the best-known and largest example of this kind of building, but there are other impressive amphitheatres dotted all over Italy – in Pompeii and Pozzuoli near Naples, and in Verona, to name just the most intact examples. Roman militarism led to the building of some structures that had no more purpose than to celebrate a famous victory or conquest of a new territory, the triumphal arch – a form which interestingly stayed with us right up to the nineteenth century (for example in Paris and New York). Usually they would be decorated with frieze sculptures illustrating the heroic battles. There are three intact triumphal arches in and around the Forum in Rome, and others in Benevento near Naples, in Aosta, and in Rimini and Ancona on the Adriatic coast. Another way of celebrating imperial triumphs was to decorate a column with sculpted friezes, but far fewer of these survive – only two in fact, in Rome, dedicated by and to the emperors Trajan and Marcus Aurelius. Finally there are the mausoleums that were raised by emperors to hold the remains of themselves and their families – planned as large and ﬁtting tributes to their imperial dynasties. As you might expect the best of these are in Rome, and most impressive is probably the mausoleum of Hadrian, which has been adapted as the Castel Sant’Angelo and is as much a medieval and Renaissance monument as a Roman one.

The ﬁrst Christian structures in Italy were probably the catacombs. A series of artiﬁcial underground tunnels and caverns, they’re not strictly architecture as such, but some of the features – altars, arches, etc, used in underground places of worship – were later adopted when Christianity became the dominant religion and Christian buildings were erected above ground, too. The ﬁrst Christian buildings adopted the Roman basilica as their model, for example in Santa Sabina or Santa Maria Maggiore in Rome, with one main and two side aisles, and were often built on the site of a saint’s martyrdom or ﬁnal resting-place, for example St Peter’s on the Vatican Hill. Often they incorporated ancient columns from previous Roman buildings, and were quite bare. Later, the capital of the Church moved to Ravenna and early Christian architecture moved to a Byzantine style, with round churches, mosaics rather than paintings, and often a dome – a style which caught on quickly, and, as you can tell from looking at the skyline of Rome today, never really went away.

The Middle Ages The first style of the Middle Ages, predominant during the tenth and eleventh centuries, was the Romanesque, identiﬁable by its round arches and a return to the basic basilical plan, often with transepts added – not only to add extra space but also so that the footprint of the church made the shape of a cross. There was also a

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tendency to build campaniles or bell towers separate from the church, and sometimes a separate baptistry too – as can be seen in Pisa, where the Duomo, Baptistry and famous leaning bell tower form a perfect Romanesque ensemble. There are other superb examples of the Romanesque style in Parma and Modena, and in the south at Monreale in Sicily, whose Norman cathedral still bears a large Byzantine strain in its impressive mosaics – a bit like another Romanesque-Byzantine hybrid, the basilica of San Marco in Venice. Another ﬁne Romanesque Italian church, and one which formed something of a blueprint for many that followed, is the church of Sant’Ambrogio in Milan. By the twelfth century, the Gothic style began to dominate across Europe, characterized by its use of pointed arches, vaulting, and an emphasis on verticality, space and light. However, it never took hold in Italy to the extent it did in France or England, and as a result there are relatively few Gothic buildings here, and those that exist have often been dulled by the heavier lines of the Renaissance style that succeeded it. The style was adopted most successfully in Venice, where a particular form of ﬂorid Gothic architecture took root and is in evidence throughout the city – in the Palazzo Ducale most prominently, but also in some of the buildings on the Grand Canal, the Ca’ Foscari and Palazzi Giustinian for example. Otherwise there are isolated examples of the Gothic style throughout the country: Cistercian

Domestic architecture Italian architecture isn’t just about palaces and churches: domestic architecture is also a source of interest and the layout of small towns and farming settlements have had as much impact on Italy’s landscape as the country’s better-known monuments and buildings.

Hill-towns Throughout the Middle Ages, the countryside was unsafe, unhealthy and, in many places, uncultivated, but its topography, with an abundance of hills and mountains rising steeply from fertile plains, provided natural sites for fortiﬁed settlements which could both remove the population from malarial swamps and bandits and preserve the limited fertile land for cultivation. In the period of their greatest expansion – between the twelfth and fourteenth centuries – hill-towns sprang up all over the peninsula. Many were superimposed on early Etruscan cities – Chiusi and Cortona – or were cave dwellings, such as Matera, in Basilicata. Most hill-towns were built within high and sometimes battlemented walls, the sheer drop afforded by these sites (often extended by the use of towers) enabling inhabitants to make good use of gravity by dropping a crushing blow onto the heads of enemies attempting to scale the walls. It was also a good way of dispatching the dead, as well as a simple form of rubbish disposal. Houses were densely packed together and constructed with materials found on or near their site, which adds to the impression that they arise naturally from their geological foundations. Most day-to-day activities were carried out in the streets, traces of which are still visible in the surviving evidence of public fountains and washhouses, wells and communal ovens. Although many hill-towns were genuinely self-contained communities, they were often under the political and economic control of the cities, particularly in north and central Italy. Each city-state set up satellite towns of its own, to protect trade routes or to operate as garrisons for soldiers, weaponry and food in case of war. For example, Siena established the fortiﬁed hill-town of Monteriggioni in the early thirteenth century along an important route from Rome into France, which also passed through San Gimignano. At roughly the same time, Florence founded similar frontier outposts, including San Giovanni Valdarno, Scarperia and Firenzuola.

abbeys like that of Fossanova in Lazio; some of the French-looking churches of the Angevin monarchs of Naples, in particular the monastic complex of Santa Chiara; and the cathedral in Siena, which exhibits a peculiarly Italian form of the Gothic style – very ornate on the outside, much like the nearby cathedral of Orvieto in Umbria. Perhaps the most impressive Gothic building in Italy, at least from a purists’ point of view, is the cathedral of Milan, a vast building which took ﬁve hundred years to build but exhibits all the classic features of the style, with a facade and roof that is a forest of pinnacles.

The Renaissance

If you’re travelling through Tuscany, Umbria or Le Marche, you’re likely to see another classic Italian structure – the country villa or Casa della Mezzadria, which became widespread during the Renaissance. Usually square in plan, it was built using a combination of brick, stone and terracotta under a tent-like roof with a dove tower (la torre colombaia) at its apex – doves and pigeons were adept at killing snakes and consuming weeds and also provided valuable meat for the table. The house derives its name from the system of sharecropping or mezzadria (based on the word mezza – “half”), under which the peasant farmer yielded up half his produce to the landowner. Used only occasionally by the landlord, these houses were the primary residence of the estate manager (il fattore), who oversaw the landlord’s interests. In contrast, the architecture of the farming complex (la cascina) was stark, with high rectangular porticoes supported by square columns. The estate accommodated four architecturally distinct elements: the owner-manager’s house, which was more elaborate in design and often taller than the other buildings; housing for workers, tenement-like in character, with external balconies running along the upper ﬂoors used to dry and store crops; cow barns; and stables for horses with hay lofts above. Today, many farmhouses have been converted into tourist accommodation or agriturismi. In southern Italy the masseria is a more common type of farming settlement – massive, complex structures that dominate vast tracts of countryside. Consisting of a dense cluster of separate buildings, masserie were sometimes enclosed by a high-perimeter wall with defence towers built into it. At its largest a masseria virtually operated as a self-contained village incorporating church, school, medical clinic and shop, in addition to accommodating the full range of agricultural requirements for stabling, housing (of day-labourers called braccianti) and storage. In their purest, least-altered form, village masserie are still visible in parts of Sicily. Trulli, found along the coast of Puglia and inland, form one of the most remote, curious and ancient types of farm settlement in Italy. Of uncertain origin, they consist of clusters of single circular rooms, each covered by a conical roof (see p.819).

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Villas and farmhouses

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Spreading through Italy from the ﬁfteenth century onwards, the Renaissance was perhaps the high point of Italian architecture, as it was in the arts and most other disciplines, and its inﬂuence on building methods and styles remains to this day. Essentially, the Renaissance ushered in the period of the professional architect rather than a collection of masons, whose vision of a building was paramount; it also led to a spread of architectural ideas and techniques to domestic as well as religious and royal buildings.

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Florence was at the heart of the Renaissance and the architect who led its revival was Filippo Brunelleschi (1377–1446), who became famous for designing an elegant dome to top the city’s Gothic cathedral – a dome which was not only a magniﬁcent engineering feat at the time but today is still the most enduring symbol of the city. Brunelleschi was familiar with and keen to emulate the building methods and feats of ancient Rome and Greece but was also successful in creating his own style, which incorporated the methods of the past but in an increasingly modern way. As such, he more than anyone is responsible for the fact that so many modern buildings still incorporate the columns and capitals, pediments and frames of ancient Greece and Rome. Another Florentine, Michelozzo di Bartolomeo (1396–1471), succeeded Brunelleschi as chief architect of the cathedral, and built the seminal MediciRicciardi palace – a prototype for the classic Renaissance palace, with its rustic basement and more reﬁned ﬁrst ﬂoor. He worked on a number of other Florentine buildings at the time including the “tribune” of the Annunziata church, which he designed as an ancient Roman temple – a design which was ﬁnished off by Leone Battista Alberti (1404–72). Alberti was like Leonardo da Vinci in that he was the complete Renaissance man, skilled in all disciplines but perhaps excelling at architecture, although unlike his contemporaries he had nothing to do with the actual building of any of his designs. His focus was on the aesthetic of a building rather than what made it stand up, and as such he could let his imagination run riot, which he did in buildings like the Palazzo Rucellai in Florence, the Tempio Malatestiano in Rimini and the church of Sant’Andrea in Mantua. The building of the Palazzo Rucellai was overseen by Bernardo Rossellino (1409– 64), another architect who had a big inﬂuence both in Florence and beyond. He also completed the work on Brunelleschi’s cathedral dome and is perhaps best known for the design and creation of the Renaissance “new town” of Pienza for Pope Pius II.

The High Renaissance

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Arguably the greatest architect of the High Renaissance was Donato Bramante (1443–1514), who learned a lot from his Florentine predecessors but spun it into a style of his own, in the ingenious rebuildings of the churches of San Satiro and Santa Marie delle Grazie in Milan, and most famously in his little Tempietto in Rome, which faithfully turned back to the classical orders of the past but with a small-scale sensibility that was very much of its time. Bramante’s best years were in Rome, and he was commissioned to develop the buildings of the Vatican Palace as well as rebuilding St Peter’s itself. The Greek-cross plan he came up with for the latter never saw the light of day, but the building was started while he was alive and as such he must take credit for at least part of it. The St Peter’s project spanned more than a century, and Bramante’s place was taken by Michelangelo (1475–1564), who added the dome but died before he could achieve very much. In Rome, the other great artist of the High Renaissance, Raphael (1483–1520), undertook architectural commissions too, designing the Chigi chapel in the church of Santa Maria del Popolo and encouraging his pupil Giulio Romano (1499–1546) to take on vast projects such as the Palazzo del Te in Mantua. Raphael decorated another building for the Chigi family in Rome, the Villa Farnesina, which was built to the designs of Baldassare Peruzzi (1481–1536), an important architect who designed much in his native Siena, and who worked on the Villa Farnese in Caprarola in Lazio with Antonio Sangallo the Younger (1483–1546) – the most talented member of a family of architects. Sangallo was very much the successor of

As in painting and sculpture, the Baroque era was one of massive change, with the Church deﬁant in the face of the Reformation sweeping across the rest of Europe, and looking for new ways to keep the faithful on message. The theatrical and dramatic nature of the painting and sculpture at the time seeped into architecture, too, and nowhere more so than in Rome, where the Baroque became the dominant architectural style – and the one that most deﬁnes the city today (much as Florence is above all deﬁned by the Renaissance). The chief architect of this time was Carlo Maderno (1556–1629), and it was he who took over and at long last ﬁnished St Peter’s, some would say by ruining its original design and converting it to a Latin cross that undermined the original dome-focused plan. It’s the St Peter’s of Maderno that you see today, and the church is in many ways a Baroque church inside and out – much like the piazza outside, whose columned arms are the brainchild of the greatest sculptor and architect of the Baroque age, Gianlorenzo Bernini (1598–1680). Bernini was a prodigy of the most amazing kind, the son of a sculptor and extremely successful – as a sculptor – while still very young. He was enormously talented and incredibly proliﬁc, which means that he more than anyone else maybe shaped the Rome you see today. Patronized as he was by the pope at the time, Urban VIII, it’s Bernini’s features that deﬁne the interior of St Peter’s, not least his vast and ﬂashy baldachino under the dome, and although he only gravitated towards architecture later in life he is responsible for a variety of buildings and architectural features around the rest of the city. He restored Piazza Navona and added the massive Fountain of the Four Rivers as its centrepiece; he built the small oval church of Sant’Andrea delle Quirinale, and he worked on the enormous Palazzo Barberini, the seat of his benefactor Urban VIII, as well as the Montecitorio and Chigi palaces.

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The Baroque era

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Bramante and Raphael in Rome, and was responsible – again along with a very aged Michelangelo – for perhaps the city’s ﬁnest Renaissance palace, the supremely elegant and digniﬁed Palazzo Farnese, in 1514. Meanwhile Jacopo Sansovino (1486–1570) was the principal architect at the time in Venice, and was responsible for many of the large public buildings around Piazza San Marco, most notably the Library and Loggetta, as well as several churches, all of which display an inventiveness that plays well with the fripperies of the existing Venetian-Gothic buildings there. Not far from Venice, in Vicenza, Andrea Palladio (1508–80) achieved an inﬂuence that stretched far and wide, with his reﬁned take on Renaissance principles, building a number of palaces and villas between 1540 and 1580 that became the apotheosis of the reﬁned country house – a symmetrical central block, with a columned portico and a central dome. Palladio rigorously followed classical rules and while this means his buildings sometimes appear dull, it is also perhaps the reason why his principles are still alive today. In Rome Giacomo Vignola (1507–73) took over as the latest architect to oversee the progress of St Peter’s and at the same time built the inﬂuential church of the Gesù in the city, to a striking new design that dispensed with aisles and focused everything on the enormous cupola and the high altar. The church, or at least its facade, was ﬁnished by Giacomo della Porta (1533–1602), who unwittingly came up with a design that more or less every Roman church would follow for a century or more – one which used all the columns and pediments of the classical orders, but mixed them up in a new and freer way than before, with scrollwork and other features that heralded the new, ﬂashier age of the Baroque.

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It’s said that the ﬁgure in Bernini’s fountain of the Four Rivers in Rome is shielding its eyes from the horrors of the nearby church of Sant’Agnese in Agone, because it was built by Francesco Borromini (1599–1667), his greatest rival, and the only one who came close to Bernini in talent at the time. As well as being more of an architect, Borromini was a very different sort of man to Bernini: more troubled, and much less of a man about town, but he, too, left his mark on Rome, becoming known as an architect who could come up with ingenious solutions to thorny architectural problems, often shoehorning grand buildings into sites that they were ill-suited for – for example the churches of San Carlo alle Quattro Fontane and Sant’Ivo alla Sapienza, both of which are clever and unique designs. He also worked with Bernini on the Palazzo Barberini, adding a lovely circular staircase as a counterpart to Bernini’s more traditional rectangular one. The other great Baroque architect active in Rome was Pietro da Cortona (1596–1669), whose contribution to the Palazzo Barberini is mentioned on p.1010, but who also designed the clever and very theatrical church of Santa Maria della Pace and its small piazza.Outside of Rome, the big centres for the Baroque were in southern Italy – in Naples, where architects like Cosimo Fanzago (1591–1678) and Fernando Sanfelice (1675–1748) were active, and in Lecce, whose central core is a Baroque extravaganza, with an array of exuberant buildings fashioned from the soft local sandstone.

Neoclassicism Like much of the rest of Europe, Italy entered a relatively bland era after the Baroque – deliberately so, for the spirit of the Neoclassical movement that followed was essentially a revolt against the excesses of the Baroque style, and at heart a return to the solid principles of Classicism. Luigi Vanvitelli (1700–73) was probably the foremost eighteenth-century Italian architect. The son of a Dutch landscape painter living in Naples, he worked with Nicola Salvi (1697– 1751) on the Rococo fantasy, Rome’s Trevi Fountain, and later, after a handful of small commissions in Rome, designed and built the enormous Royal Palace at Caserta in 1752, a massive Versailles-like blend of both perfect symmetry and ludicrous grandiloquence, as well as remodelling the more restrained Palazzo Reale in nearby Naples. His successor as most prominent Italian architect was Giuseppe Valadier (1762–1839), a purer exponent of Neoclassical principles, who taught architecture at Rome’s Accademia San Luca and laid out many key parts of the city centre, including the great open space of the Piazza del Popolo, the Pincio and the streets leading off it. The nineteenth century saw the construction of a series of shopping arcades in the big Italian cities – the Galleria Umberto in Naples, what is now the Galleria Sordi in Rome and perhaps most successfully the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II in Milan, built in 1865 by Giuseppe Mengoni (1829–77), who unfortunately died when he fell from the roof a few days before it opened. Around this time, the era of the Uniﬁcation of Italy, Rome was remodelled as a capital ﬁt for the new country, and it saw a huge amount of construction, most of it a mixture of the functional nineteenth-century apartment buildings that you ﬁnd in most European capitals and the odd piece of faux-grandeur like the semicircular Piazza della Repubblica at the top of Via Nazionale, or, most strikingly, the hideous Vittoriano monument overlooking Piazza Venezia, the work of one Giuseppe Sacconi (1854–1905) in 1895 – though even this monstrosity has become accepted over the years.

The modern era

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The early twentieth century saw several international styles touch Italy in some way, for example Art Nouveau, but none really caught on and there wasn’t a new indigenous architectural movement until the Futurists. Chief architect of the Futurists was Antonio Sant’Elia (1888–1916), who never really built anything but had far-reaching ideas about the modern city that at the time were more science ﬁction than anything else. Giuseppe Terragni (1904–43) was his true heir, an archrationalist who built the Casa del Fascio in Como in 1936, and was the designer of an unrealized project in Rome based on Dante’s Divine Comedy as a tribute to the Italian poet. Terragni worked under Mussolini but died young, after which Mussolini’s preferred architect became Marcello Piacentini (1881–1960), who was responsible for some of the most celebrated of the Duce’s architecture – the Stadio dei Marmi, the housing complex of Garbatella and EUR, all in Rome, as well as the chilling open space of Brescia’s Piazza della Vittoria. Piacentini worked on EUR’s Palazzo dello Sport with Pier Luigi Nervi (1891–1979), a celebrated Italian architect who specialized in buildings based around prefabricated and reinforced concrete and who later became known for enormous works such as aircraft hangars, the trade-fair halls in Turin and the Olympic Stadium and the Papal Audience Chamber in Rome. Nervi worked with another Italian architect, Gio Ponti (1891–1979), on the prestigious and at the time – 1950 – audacious Pirelli Tower in Milan, until recently still the tallest building in Italy. Ponti was a great Italian designer as well as architect and set up the bilingual design magazine Domus, which is still in circulation today. Perhaps the best-known Italian architect of the current era is Renzo Piano (b.1937), though more for his work outside Italy than in his home country. Famous initially for his Paris Beaubourg collaboration with Richard Rogers, he has since worked on numerous prestige projects around the world – Hong Kong’s airport, the redesign of Potsdamer Platz in Berlin, and a lot of big museum projects and extensions. But he recently returned to his roots, designing the hugely successful Auditorium Parco della Musica in Rome.

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An A–Z of Italian ﬁlm

F

rom the earliest days of cinema, the Italians have always been passionate movie-lovers and movie-makers. But Italy’s ﬁlms really came to the forefront of world cinema in the postwar period; this was partly due to the location shift from studio-based ﬁlms to the country’s towns and landscape. Their style and technique were ground-breaking, and the use of real sites added a dimension, a mood, which made Italian cinema linger in the memory. The endless expanse of the Po Valley plain in Obsession, the steaming sulphur springs outside Naples in Voyage to Italy, the deserted, off-season seaside resort of Rimini in I Vitelloni, help to create an atmosphere that could never have been achieved in a studio.

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| An A–Z of Italian film

8 1/2 (1963). Fellini’s most autobiographical ﬁlm, about a “blocked” ﬁlm director recalling his past life, loves and successes. It’s also perhaps his most revered movie, though you could at a pinch call it self-indulgent. The title refers to the number of ﬁlms Fellini had directed up to that point. Amarcord (1973). One of several Fellini ﬁlms that uses the director’s home town of Rimini as a location, this time under Fascism. Also very autobiographical, it’s a tale of youth and a satire of the Church and Mussolini all rolled into one. Antonioni, Michelangelo Although from a Neorealist background, Antonioni shifted the emphasis from outward action and social realism to internal and psychological anguish in the ﬁlms he made in the 1960s and 1970s. Aprile (1998). Nanni Moretti appears to be continually questioning the worth of everything, including his own work and in fact went too far for some critics in this movie, which focuses on his inability to decide how to ﬁnish his ﬁlms – or even whether to ﬁnish them. Although poorly received, it’s still a very funny ﬁlm.

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Bertolucci, Bernardo Perhaps Italy’s most commercially successful postwar director, Bertolucci started out as Pasolini’s assistant, and shared his politics, though his own ﬁlms steadily became more straightforward and accessible, culminating in box-office favourites like The Last Emperor (1987).

Bicycle Thieves (1948). A young boy is the witness to his father’s humiliation in De Sica’s classic movie, set in the poorer quarters of Rome, when he sees him steal a bicycle out of desperation (to get his job back) and immediately get caught. The child’s illusions are dashed, and the blame is laid on society for not providing the basic human requirements, although in retrospect its message seems politically ambiguous – the masses are seen as hostile, and the only hope seems to lie in the family unit, which the hero falls thankfully back on at the end. The Brownnose (1991). Daniele Luchetti’s ﬁlm satirizes the favoured Italian way of outwitting the system and getting things done – and the oiling of the wheels of bureaucracy by means of gifts and bribery involves the anti-hero in all manner of scrapes. Cabiria (1914). The Italians were once famous for their silent costume epics, often set in the period of the Roman Empire, anticipating the Fascist nostalgia for ancient Rome by at least a decade. This ﬁlm by Giovanni Pastrone, set in ancient Carthage, was the most sophisticated and innovative of the genre, with spectacular sets and lighting effects that were imitated by the American director D.W. Griffith. Casanova (1976). Fellini’s take on the notorious womanizer is an oddly (and deliberately) artiﬁcial-looking ﬁlm. It wasn’t actually shot in Venice, and the water in the lagoon is, in fact, a shaken

plastic sheet – an odd backlash against the real landscapes of the Neorealists. Christ Stopped at Eboli (1979). A surprisingly unincisive critique of “the problem of the south”, set in a poverty-stricken mountain village in Basilicata.

The City of Women (1980). This dream-like, late Fellini ﬁlm explores the great Italian director’s own sexual fantasies, using Marcello Mastroianni to act them out. Come Te Nessuno Mai (1999). This coming-of-age story by Gabriele Muccino is an interesting take on the US high-school comedy genre; his very Italian students are highly politicized youngsters, planning strikes and taking part in a 24-hour sit-in, both of which provide a backdrop for the inevitable angst and ﬁrst love. The Conformist (1970). One of Bertolucci’s early ﬁlms, adapted from the novel by Alberto Moravia, with a spiritually empty hero searching for

Death in Venice (1971). Style constantly threatened to overtake content in Visconti’s work, and this ﬁlm version of Thomas Mann’s novella about a washed-up writer obsessed by a young boy is perhaps the best example, dripping with emotion and visual set pieces. Mann’s writer is a composer in Visconti’s ﬁlm, enabling the director to lay on the strings of Mahler with a trowel. Decameron (1971). Pasolini’s ﬁlm of the Italian literary classic was a record hit at the box office because of its explicit sex scenes, although the director’s intention had been political rather than salacious, with Boccaccio’s fourteenth-century tales transposed from their original middle-class Florentine setting to the dispossessed of Naples. The Earth Trembles (1948). This version of the nineteenth-century Sicilian author Giovanni Verga’s novel The House by the Medlar Tree is about a family of ﬁshermen destroyed by circumstance, and was shot on location on the stark Sicilian coast, using an entire village as cast, speaking in their native Sicilian (with an Italian voice-over and subtitles). There’s a pervading atmosphere of stoic fatalism and a truly sophisticated visual style incorporating stunning tableaux such as the one where the wives, dressed in

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Cinema Paradiso (1988). Giuseppe Tornatore’s Oscar-winning movie was shot in the director’s native village near Palermo, and tells its story through a series of ﬂashbacks. The central ﬁgure, a successful ﬁlm director named Salvatore, returns to the village for the funeral of the projectionist of the magical Cinema Paradiso of his childhood, only to ﬁnd that it is about to be razed to make way for a car park.

Dear Diary (1993). Director, actor and screenwriter Nanni Moretti achieved great acclaim with this ﬁlm in three parts, covering such diverse subjects as twentieth-century architecture, children and telephones, Pasolini’s unsolved murder, the myth of rural idyll, as well as Moretti’s own ﬁght against cancer. Much of the ﬁlm is spent following Moretti on his scooter through Rome, or travelling by ferry from one island to another.

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Cinecittà The Fascist regime was surprisingly slow to recognize the potential of the cinema, but in 1937 Mussolini inaugurated “Cinecittà”, the ﬁlm studio complex just outside Rome that is still the nerve centre of the Italian movie industry. Part of it was destroyed by ﬁre a couple of years ago, but it continues to provide the backdrop for numerous Italian and international productions. It’s hoped that one day it will open for tours, but for the moment its doors remain ﬁrmly closed to the general public.

father-substitutes in Fascist Rome in a dream-like jumble of ﬂashbacks. The Conformist was Bertolucci’s ﬁrst step on the path to world recognition.

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black, stand waiting for their husbands on the skyline, looking out to sea – a scene which prompted Orson Welles to remark that Visconti shot ﬁshermen as if they were Vogue models.

brothers who make their fortune in Hollywood during the silent movie era but end up ﬁghting on opposite sides in World War I. A big, epic ﬁlm, beautifully made.

The Eclipse (1962). Antonioni used the impersonal Stock Exchange building in Rome as the background to this slow-moving tale of doomed love. Short on plot, but with a memorable visual subtlety.

The Gospel According to Matthew (1964). Pasolini’s ﬁlm is a radical interpretation of a familiar story – the life of Christ as detailed in the gospel of St Matthew. As you might expect in a Pasolini ﬁlm, Christ is a radical, intent on changing the world, and not necessarily by peaceful means either.

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| An A–Z of Italian film

Fellini, Federico Among ﬁlm buffs at least, Fellini is the most admired Italian director of them all. Though he started as one of the Neorealists, he saw Neorealism as more of a worldview than a “school”, and developed his style over the years into one that combined dreams and fantasy with memories from his childhood. The Garden of the Finzi-Continis (1970). Vittorio di Sica’s ﬁlm about a Jewish family living in prewar Ferrara captures perfectly the elegiac, dreamy quality of Giorgio Bassani’s great novel. Germany, Year Zero (1947). The ﬁnal, desolate ﬁlm of Rossellini’s “War Trilogy”, set in the ruins of postwar Berlin, and telling the story of a child whom circumstances push to suicide. Gold of Naples (1955). A ﬁlm about Naples basically, directed by Vittorio di Sica, following six different Neapolitan characters whose lives are ultimately interconnected. It stars two of the most successful Neapolitan actors of all time – Sophia Loren and Toto. Gomorrah (2008). The most notorious Italian ﬁlm to emerge in recent years, based on Roberto Saviano’s best-selling book about the Neapolitan Camorra. It’s a tough affair, portraying a Naples you’re not likely to see on any visit – it’s shot in the housing projects north of the city and uses locals as actors.

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Good Morning Babylon (1987). Perhaps the Taviani brothers’ best ﬁlm, tracking the life journeys of two

Hands Over the City (1963). This docudrama by Francesco Rosi and starring Rod Steiger is a brutal critique of the mob-dominated construction industry in Naples. Perhaps the most shocking thing about it is that it could still be made today. Ignorant Fairies (2001). Themes of love, loss and deception wrapped up in a soundtrack of Middle Eastern and Latin music. Commenting on the current changes in Italian ﬁlm, the director Ozpetek says, “The public is more demanding now. At the same time, people have become more willing to experiment, to go to see quality Italian ﬁlms with fully developed stories and interesting characters. Before they would have looked to foreign ﬁlms for that type of cinema.” Il Postino (1994). Michael Radford’s ﬁlm is a humorous tale set in 1930s Italy, which follows the artistic and political awakening of the central character, played by Italian comic Massimo Troisi (who sadly died soon after the ﬁlm’s completion). I Vitelloni (1953). All through his long career Fellini used ﬁlms as a kind of personal notebook in which to hark back to his youth. This is set in an unrecognizable Rimini, his birthplace, before the days of mass tourism. Jesus of Nazareth (1977). Jesus is not a man of peace but the champion of the sub-proletariat and the enemy of

hypocrisy in Franco Zefferelli’s syrupy TV movie, ﬁlmed in the surprisingly biblical-looking landscape of the poorer regions of southern Italy and using the peasants of the area in the cast. Journey to Italy (1953). A well-todo couple visit Italy – speciﬁcally Naples – and inherit an estate, running into problems in their relationship. A powerful ﬁlm, much of which was scripted on location or improvised, it’s full of brooding atmosphere and is perhaps Rossellini’s best work.

La Luna (1979). Jill Clayburgh stars in this tale of the tortured son of a tortured opera singer, directed by Bertolucci at the beginning of his career. It’s hard to care about the characters, but it’s undeniably beautifully put together. La Notte (1961). The bleak townscape of industrial Milan is the backdrop for this Francesco Rosi ﬁlm. Not a lot happens, but it’s deftly done, with slow, lingering scenes and dialogue. La Sconosciuta (2006). Tornatore’s ﬁlm involves an East European prostitute forced to abandon her children as she tries to earn a living in an Italian town. The Last Kiss (2001). Muccino’s romantic comedy dealing with panic at parenthood and the chasing of vanishing youth, won a ﬂurry of awards and universal approval. La Strada (1954). One of Fellini’s early ﬁlms, and following a recognizably realistic storyline (unlike his later movies). Also, his characters are

Life is Beautiful (1997). Roberto Benigni’s ﬁlm addresses the Holocaust and dares to combine comedy with genocide. A parent’s desire to protect the innocence of their child, rather than the Holocaust itself, is the theme of the ﬁlm, and Benigni (who also plays the lead role with his wife, Nicoletta Braschi, as his co-star) distinguishes between laughing at the Holocaust and laughing in the Holocaust; visual gags, dramatic tension and a poignancy that’s almost unbearable at times permeate the ﬁlm. Light of My Eyes (2001). Set in Rome, this is a haunting exploration of the alienation that many feel in their lives and their romantic relationships. The story is particularly strong thanks to the character of Maria, the female lead, free of the usual stereotypes and beautifully acted and directed by Giuseppe Piccioni.

| An A–Z of Italian film

La Dolce Vita (1960). Marcello Mastroianni is the now-iconic paparazzo in Fellini’s stylish 1960s classic about celebrity, style – and ultimately emptiness.

L’Avventura (1960). The volcanic landscape of Sicily is the sensuous backdrop for this typically bleak yet perceptive Antonioni tale of middleclass relationships and ultimately amoral choices.

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Kaos (1984). An adapation of Pirandello stories shot in scenic Sicily, both loving of the Italian landscape and redolent of a time past.

motivated by human values rather than social ones – searching for love instead of solidarity.

Luna Rossa (2001). Neapolitan director Antonio Capuano’s mesmerizing portrayal of a Camorra family from the inside, borrowing from Greek tragedy for its structure and with a soundtrack by indierockers Almamegretta. Visually rich, brooding, confusing and violent, the ﬁlm is artistically assured in a way that few others have been in recent years. Many Wars Ago (1970). Rosi’s ﬁlm about the inhumanity of war depicts a mutiny among Italian troops on the Austrian front during World War I. Mario’s War (2005). Capuano’s gritty ﬁlm looks at a well-to-do Neapolitan family who foster a disturbed boy.

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Marrakech Express (1989). Not the Crosby, Stills & Nash song, but a Salvatores’ road movie telling the story of a group of seven young Italians setting off for Morocco in search of their friend. Mediterraneo (1991). This Gabriele Salvatores ﬁlm shows eight reluctant Italian sailors stranded on a Greek island in 1941, and recounts their gradual integration into local life. It won an Oscar for best foreign language ﬁlm the year of its release. C ONTE XTS

| An A–Z of Italian film

Mery per Sempre (1989). Marco Risi ﬁlms deal with speciﬁc social problems, and this follows the lives of half a dozen youngsters in prison. Its sequel, Ragazzi Fuori (1990), shows them fresh out of jail. Miracle in Milan (1951). Vittorio De Sica’s fantastic fable, about a young man who is given a white dove which possesses the power to grant the wishes of everyone living in his slummy suburb. Surreal special effects are used to create a startling impact, for example in a shot of the hero and heroine ﬂying high above the pinnacles of Milan cathedral on a broomstick. Neorealism Neorealism had no manifesto, but its main exponents – Rossellini, De Sica and Visconti – intended their ﬁlms to present the everyday stuff of life and not romantic dreams. They developed speciﬁc aims (even if they didn’t always stick to them), to show real people rather than conventional heroes, real time, real light and real places – using non-actors and shooting on location, not in studios.

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Novecento (1976). Bertolucci’s historical masterpiece spans the ﬁrst half of the twentieth century and is deliberately epic in scale, following the fates of two brothers as they make their way through World War I, the rise of Fascism and beyond. It’s six hours long (though split into two parts), but the story is well told with a compelling narrative.

Obsession (1943). Luchino Visconti’s adaptation of the American novel The Postman Always Rings Twice – a lowlife story of adultery and murder transposed to northern Italy, with the characters playing out their seedy tragedy in the relentlessly ﬂat landscape of the Po Valley and among the surreal carnival ﬂoats in Ferrara – was something new in the Italian cinema: it had an honesty and intensity, a lack of glamour, that pointed the way to the Neorealist ﬁlms of the immediate postwar period. Open Doors (1990). Gianni Amelio’s political drama is set in Fascist Palermo just before World War II, but its subject matter – a liberal judge being obstructed in his investigations of all-pervasive corruption – was particularly apposite at the time. Padre Padrone (1977). The Taviani brothers’ mini-epic set in Sardinia details the showdown between an overbearing father and his rebellious son. Paisà (1946). The second ﬁlm of Rossellini’s “War Trilogy” traces the Allied Occupation north from Sicily to the Po Valley, in six self-contained episodes. Pasolini, Pier Paolo Murdered in mysterious circumstances in 1975, Pasolini was a practising Catholic, a homosexual and a Marxist, as well as a poet and novelist. His ﬁlms reﬂected this cocktail of ideological and sexual inﬂuences, though in a less autobiographical way than Fellini’s. Pinocchio (2002). Adapted from the Italian writer Carlo Collodi’s 1880 fable, this Roberto Benigni ﬁlm grossed US$7m in its ﬁrst weekend, a new record at the Italian box office. Benigni doubles as star and director, playing opposite his wife, Braschi, who is the blue-haired fairy. True to the original story, the ﬁlm is a moral tale in which the puppet who dreams of becoming a real boy has to learn honesty ﬁrst through a series of

adventures. Benigni’s ﬁlm represents a reclaiming of cultural property: Disney reportedly tried to trademark the character Pinocchio, claiming that it was their animation that everyone thought of ﬁrst when they heard the name, but they lost their case. Puerto Escondido (1992). A slightly far-fetched plot, in which an ordinary man is shot by bank robbers and ends up living in a commune in Mexico. But, as in all Salvatores’ movies, the story is well told and ultimately meaningful.

Rehearsal for War (1998). Mario Martone’s ﬁlm examines the Yugoslav conﬂict and the power of the imagination in our perception of evil. Roma (1972). Religion is a major theme in Fellini’s work, and he’s at his best when satirizing the Roman Catholic Church, as in the grotesque clerical fashion parade in this, one of his best-known movies. Rome, Open City (1945). As the tanks were rolling out of Rome in 1945, Roberto Rossellini cobbled together the bare minimum of ﬁnances, crew and equipment and started shooting this

Rossellini, Roberto The spearhead of the Italian Neorealist movement, and very proliﬁc, whose own words perhaps partly sum up his work: “I don’t want to make beautiful ﬁlms, I want to make useful ﬁlms.” Sailing Home (2001). Vincenzo Marra’s movie was made on a shoestring budget: it uses ﬁshermen rather than professional actors, is spoken in Neapolitan dialect (at home it was released with Italian subtitles) and was shot in semi-documentary style.

| An A–Z of Italian film

Red Desert (1964). The alienating oil reﬁneries and power plants at Ravenna make a perfect setting for this movie in what is the cinematic equivalent of an existential novel.

Rosi, Francesco Neapolitan director who made a series of semi-documentary “enquiry” ﬁlms attacking various aspects of the Italian establishment. Not that these are dry analyses of Italian society: the viewer has to sort through the pieces of evidence – the newsreel footage, the half-heard opinions, the absence of comment – to come to his or her own conclusions about the truth, in a kind of do-it-yourself mystery story.

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Realism The late 1930s and early 1940s saw an element of documentarystyle realism creep into ﬁlm-making: contemporary social themes were addressed; non-professional actors were sometimes used; and directors – even those with the official stamp of approval – made the occasional realistic documentary, with none of the bombast or gloss of the typical Fascist ﬁlm. It was on ﬁlms such as these that future Neorealist directors such as Visconti, Rossellini and De Sica worked their apprenticeships, learning techniques that they would draw on a few years later when they were allowed to unleash their creative imaginations.

movie, using real locations, documentary footage, and low-grade ﬁlm, and coming up with a grainy, idiosyncratic style that inﬂuenced not only his Italian contemporaries, but also the American ﬁlm noir of the late 1940s.

Salvatore Giuliano (1962). Francesco Rosi’s ﬁlm traces the story of the eponymous hero, a bandit from Sicily’s mountains who became a hero on the island after his violent death in the 1950s. One of the best ﬁlms about Sicily and the Maﬁa you’ll ever see, and perhaps the only one that never mentions the M-word. Salvatores, Gabriele One of the best of the crop of contemporary Italian directors, the ﬁlms of Salvatores deal with groups of Italians abroad, often cut adrift, or seeking escape. Senso This adaptation of a nineteenthcentury novel opens to the strains of Verdi in the Venice opera house, La Fenice, one night in 1866, and is Luchino Visconti’s view of the politically controversial Uniﬁcation,

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portrayed through the lives of a few aristocrats. The ﬁrst of Visconti’s historical spectaculars, it was the ﬁrst major Italian ﬁlm to be made in colour. Shoeshine (1946). An anatomy of a friendship between two Roman boys, destroyed ﬁrst by black-marketeers, then by the police. Like many Neorealist ﬁlms, children are seen as the innocent victims of adult corruption.

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The Son’s Room (2001). Nanni Moretti’s latest ﬁlm is a much darker work than the more famous Dear Diary, exploring a family’s grief; it won a Palme d’Or at Cannes.

| An A–Z of Italian film

The Spider’s Strategem (1970). Filmed in the strange, star-shaped Renaissance town of Sabbioneta near Mantua, this was the ﬁrst of many feature ﬁlms sponsored by RAI, the Italian state TV network, and is about a destructive father-son relationship with ﬂashbacks to the Fascist era. Splendor (1989). The owner of the cinema in a small provincial town is forced to sell up to a property developer because of declining audiences and debt in Ettore Scola’s nostalgic ﬁlm. Stolen Children (1992). One of Gianni Amelio’s best-known ﬁlms outside Italy deals with corrupt society as seen through the eyes of a child. Theorem (1968). Pasolini’s ﬁlm intercuts shots of a spiritually empty middle-class Milanese family, into which a mysterious young stranger insinuates himself, with desolate scenes of a volcanic wasteland. Three Brothers (1981). Three different political attitudes, as the brothers of the title, reunited for their mother’s funeral back home in Puglia, argue, reminisce and dream.

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Toto Che Visse Due Volte (1998). Daniele Cipri and Franco Maresco’s ﬁlm, set in Sicily, ruffled a few feathers with its violation of religious and sexual

taboos (including a depiction of a statue of the Virgin Mary being assaulted), but this iconoclastic work didn’t trouble the establishment. When the ﬁlm censors banned its release, the deputy prime minister – a ﬁlm buff – stepped in and disbanded their board. Totò Looks for a Home (1949). The Neapolitan comic actor Totò had a colossal career spanning scores of ﬁlms and several decades. Here, he and his family search for somewhere to live in the postwar ruins of Rome, in a comic variation on a neorealist theme. It was a sign of the times that people preferred to laugh at their problems rather than confront them. The Tree of Wooden Clogs (1978). Ermanno Olmi’s ﬁlm has a cast from Bergamo speaking dialect with Italian subtitles, and was a worldwide hit. Vento di Terra (2004). Vincenzo Marra’s follow-up to Sailing Home was shot in Naples, and depicts life in the city as hard and unrewarding. The Way We Laughed (1998). One of Amelio’s most successful recent ﬁlms, this is the story of two brothers leaving rural Sicily for Turin in the late 1950s. It’s a nostalgic ﬁlm in its way, and suggests that the present-day malaises Italy is experiencing have their roots in the betrayals and violence in the late 1950s and early 1960s. The White Sheikh (1952). The heroine of this ﬁlm falls in love with the Valentino-type actor playing the romantic lead for “photo romance” comics (being shot on the coast outside Rome), and has her illusions dashed when reality intervenes and he makes a bungling attempt to seduce her. Yesterday, Today, Tomorrow (1965). This Vittorio De Sica comedy tells the stories of three Italian women: a cigarette seller in Naples, a prostitute in Rome and the wife of an industrialist in Milan. Marcello Mastroianni is superb, as is Sophia Loren, who also gets her kit off (well, almost).

Books A comprehensive background reading list for Italy would run on for dozens of pages, and would include a vast number of out-of-print titles (OP). We’ve tried to include recommendations that are currently in print, but the few that aren’t shouldn’t be too difficult to track down.

Travel classics Charles Dickens Pictures from Italy. The classic mid-nineteenth-century Grand Tour, taking in the sights of Emilia, Tuscany, Rome and Naples, in elegant, measured and incisive prose.

Henry James Italian Hours. Urbane travel pieces from the young James; perceptive about particular monuments and works of art, superb on the different atmospheres of Italy. Jonathan Keates Italian Journeys. Frank yet affectionate journey through the Italian social, cultural and historical landscape. Full of engaging anecdotes, its witty portraits get under the surface of Italy and its people. D.H. Lawrence D.H. Lawrence and Italy. Lawrence’s three Italian travelogues collected into one volume. Sea and Sardinia and Twilight in Italy combine the author’s seemingly natural ill-temper when travelling with a genuine sense of regret for a way of life almost visibly passing away. Etruscan Places, published

Norman Lewis Naples ’44. Lewis was among the ﬁrst Allied troops to move into Naples following the Italian surrender in World War II, and this is his diary of his experiences there – it is without question the ﬁnest thing you can read on World War II in Italy. Lewis’s more recent In Sicily is a broad contemporary portrait of the island he has married into and returns to frequently.

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Johann Wolfgang von Goethe Italian Journey. Surprisingly readable account of a journey all through the peninsula at the end of the eighteenth century, a classic of travel writing and a decisive point in Goethe’s own transition from Sturm und Drang to classicism.

David Leavitt Florence, a Delicate Case (OP). Though a book largely about Florence’s expat community over the last 150 years may sound insular and antique, Leavitt injects a good deal of wit and sensitivity into this quirky portrait of the city.

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Norman Douglas Old Calabria. A brilliant travel chronicle based on the author’s wanderings around Calabria in the early twentieth century. See also Siren Land (OP) and the novel, South Wind, which focus on Cápri and the Bay of Naples.

posthumously, consists of his more philosophical musings on Etruscan art and civilization.

Charles Lister Heel to Toe (OP). Firmly in the tradition of such English travel-writers as Douglas and Gissing, the author sets off on a bicycle, soon transferring to a moped, for a journey along the Ionian coast from Bríndisi to Reggio. Mixing history and culture, it’s chatty and accessible. In a similar style, Lister’s Between Two Seas (OP) charts his walk along the Appian Way. Mary McCarthy The Stones of Florence/ Venice Observed. Published now in a single volume, this mixture of highclass reporting on the contemporary cities and anecdotal detail on their histories is one of the few accounts of these two cities that doesn’t read as if it’s been written in a library.

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Jan Morris Venice (titled The World of Venice in US). Some people think this is the most acute modern book written about any Italian city, while others ﬁnd it unbearably fey. At least give it a look. The author has more recently published what she claims is her ﬁnal book, Trieste and the Meaning of Nowhere, an aptly elegiac salute to this curious frontier city.

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H.V. Morton A Traveller in Italy, A Traveller in Rome and A Traveller in Southern Italy. Recently reissued, Morton’s leisurely and amiable books were written long before modern

William Murray Italy: the Fatal Gift (OP). Murray spent several years in Italy shortly after the last war, and this is a collection of essays inspired by his time there, and many return visits since. Skilfully combining personal anecdote and contemporary Italian history and politics, it’s one of the most insightful introductions to the country and its people you can buy.

Contemporary travel and impressions

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Anne Calcagno, Matthew Spender (ed) Travelers’ Tales: Italy. Crammed with evocative period pieces as well as contemporary writing speciﬁcally commissioned for this volume by Tim Parks, Lisa St Aubin de Terán and others, this makes a perfect introduction to the richness and variety of the country. See also Tuscany: True Stories, edited by Calcagno and Tara Austen Weaver. Matthew Fort Eating Up Italy. Food writer Fort’s voyage around Italy on a Vespa, discovering the mainland by eating its food from region to region, and painting an eloquent picture of the contemporary country. See also his more recent Sweet Honey, Bitter Lemons, which focuses on Sicily. Annie Hawes Extra Virgin. Belonging to the Mayes/Mayle school of expats abroad, but superior to most of the genre, this relates how two sisters overcome various adversities and much local incomprehension to ﬁnd their idyll on a Ligurian mountain. It’s funny

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tourism got into its stride, and their nostalgic charm has a lot to do with their enduring popularity. But they are also packed with learned details and vivid descriptions.

and smart, interspersed with plenty of culinary culture and peasant lore. Frances Mayes Under the Tuscan Sun, Bella Tuscany. Follow the trials and triumphs of American author and boyfriend as they renovate a farmhouse near Cortona, interspersed with recipes. Peter Moore Vroom with a View. Moore is an entertaining and honest travel companion on this Bryson-like tour of Italy on a battered scooter, sharing all the highs and lows along the way. A fun and light-hearted holiday read. Tim Parks Italian Neighbours, An Italian Education, A Season with Verona. Novelist Tim Parks has lived in Italy since 1981. The ﬁrst two of these deftly told tales of family life examine what it means to be Italian, and how national identity is absorbed. A Season with Verona relates his passion for his local football team, but draws in much more besides.

History The Longman History of Italy This eight-volume series covers the history of Italy from the end of the Roman Empire to the present, each instalment comprising a range of essays on all aspects of political, social, economic and cultural history. Invaluable if you’ve developed a special interest in a particular period.

Edward Gibbon The History of the Decline and Fall of the Roman Empire. Awe inspiring in its erudition, Gibbon’s masterpiece is one of the greatest histories ever written, and one of the ﬁnest compositions of English prose. Penguin publish an abridged version for those without the time to tackle the entire work. Paul Ginsborg A History of Contemporary Italy. A scholarly but readable account of postwar Italian history, illustrating the complexity of contending economic, social and political currents. Bringing the story up to date, Ginsborg’s Italy and Its Discontents unravels the knotty background to Berlusconi’s rise to power. Tom Holland Rubicon. An introduction to the Roman Republic from its founding to its demise (and that of

Valerio Lintner A Traveller’s History of Italy. A brief history of the country, from the Etruscans right up to the present day. Well written and sensibly concise, it’s just the thing for the dilettante historian of the country. John Julius Norwich The Normans in Sicily. Accessible, well-researched story of the Normans’ explosive entry into the south of Italy and their creation in Sicily of one of the most brilliant medieval European civilizations. Just as stimulating is his A History of Venice, the most engrossing treatment of the subject available.

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Jérôme Carcopino Daily Life in Ancient Rome. Detailed but never dull, this is a seminal work of Roman social history, with background on everything from education and religion to domestic daily rituals.

Christopher Hibbert Rome: The Biography of a City. The history of Italy’s capital made easy, this is by far the most comprehensive, yet concise, account of the city through the ages. There are companion volumes, Venice: The Biography of a City (OP) and Florence: The Biography of a City. C ONTE XTS

R.J.B. Bosworth Mussolini. This gripping account of modern Italy’s most traumatic period paints a vivid picture of Il Duce, and warns of the strong fascination for him that still exists in Italy today. The same author’s more recent Mussolini’s Italy brings to life the realities for the Italian people during the same period.

Augustus). Its vivid descriptions put the ﬂesh on the bones of this period of history.

Denis Mack Smith The Making of Italy 1796–1866; Italy and Its Monarchy. The former is an admirably lucid explanation of the various forces at work in the Uniﬁcation of Italy, while the latter deals with Italy’s shortlived monarchy. The same author has also written a couple of excellent biographies, Mazzini and Mussolini. Mark Thompson The White War. Italy’s role in World War I is just a sideshow in many non-Italian histories of the conﬂict, and is often misrepresented within the country. Thompson’s book is a magisterial account of the catastrophes and triumphs of the Italian campaign, and a brilliant explication of the part the war has played in forming the nation’s self-image.

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Crime and society Luigi Barzini The Italians. Published back in the 1960s but still in print and still a highly readable and respected work on the Italian nation.

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Tobias Jones The Dark Heart of Italy. Written during a three-year period in Parma, this is an interconnected sequence of essays dealing with various aspects of modern Italian society, from the legal and political systems to the media and football. Bewildered and fascinated at every turn, Jones reveals a culture in which evasiveness and ethical malleability are as signiﬁcant as the much-celebrated virtues of vivacity, charm and sophistication.

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Norman Lewis The Honoured Society. Lewis’s classic account of the Maﬁa, originally written in the 1960s, is still the most enjoyable introduction to the subject available. Douglas Preston with Mario Spezi The Monster of Florence. Between 1974 and 1985 the area around Florence was terrorized by Italy’s most notorious serial killer. The crimes were truly monstrous, but Preston describes them without undue prurience, in a gripping book which develops into

a hard-hitting indictment of the still unﬁnished investigation. Essentially a modern Italian tale of incompetent officials, deranged conspiracy theorists and unbelievable witnesses. Peter Robb Midnight in Sicily. The Australian Robb spent ﬁfteen years in the Italian south and this book focuses on the structure of the Maﬁa, the trials of the bosses in the 1980s and the high-proﬁle assassinations that ensued. It’s a thorough, fast-paced study, providing deep insights into the dynamics of Sicilian society. Robert Saviano Gomorrah. Saviano’s exposé of the Neapolitan Camorra is the ﬁrst to have dished the dirt on the most violent grouping of Italy’s various organized criminal gangs, and he is currently in hiding because of it. At heart it’s a passionate protest against a problem which only seems to get worse, and has been made into a well-received movie. Alexander Stille Excellent Cadavers. Stille traces the rise, successes, failures and eventual assassinations of antiMaﬁa magistrates Giovanni Falcone and Paolo Borsellino, as well as blowing the cover of Andreotti and Craxi.

Art, architecture and archeology Michael Baxandall Painting and Experience in Fifteenth-Century Italy. An invaluable analysis, concentrating on the way in which the art of the period would have been perceived at the time. Jacob Burckhardt The Civilization of the Renaissance in Italy. A nineteenthcentury classic of Renaissance scholarship.

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Frederick Hartt History of Italian Renaissance Art: Painting, Sculpture and Architecture (OP). If one book on this vast subject can be said to be indispensable, this is it – due to both the

comprehensiveness of its coverage and the range of its illustrations. Anthony Hughes Michelangelo. An ideal single-volume introduction to arguably the greatest artist of the Renaissance, which sets Michelangelo within his historical and political context. Ross King Brunelleschi’s Dome. An intriguing account of the architectural innovations and intense rivalries behind the construction of Florence’s Duomo. It also paints an engaging picture of life in the medieval city.

Peter Murray The Architecture of the Italian Renaissance. Begins with Romanesque buildings and ﬁnishes with Palladio – valuable both as a gazetteer of the main monuments and as a synopsis of the underlying concepts. Catherine Puglisi Caravaggio. An intelligent and engaging study of one of the most innovative artists of the Renaissance, enhanced with sumptuous colour plates throughout. Nigel Spivey Etruscan Art. An in-depth look at the art of the elusive Etruscans,

whose history and lives are told through their tomb art. Sumptuously illustrated throughout, this is an intriguing story of a long-lost race. Giorgio Vasari Lives of the Artists. The sixteenth-century artist’s classic work on his predecessors and contemporaries, with essays on Giotto, Brunelleschi, Mantegna, Leonardo, Michelangelo, Raphael and more. The ﬁrst real work of art history and still among the most penetrating books you can read on Italian Renaissance art.

Tim Jepson, Simon Rigge, Syd Lewis Wild Italy. Guide to

the ﬂora and fauna of the Italian peninsula written by a contributor to this guide. Gillian Price Walking in the Dolomites. A lively and informative specialized guide to the best walks in the Dolomites. Cicerone also publishes guides to Alta Via 1 & 2 and to various Vie Ferrate for more on these peculiarly Italian phenomena.

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Helena Attlee and Alex Ramsay Italian Gardens. Evocatively photographed, this is a guide to more than sixty of the peninsula’s most beautiful gardens. Both practical and up to date, it provides histories and descriptions, as well as detailed information on locations, facilities, opening times and accessibility.

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Speciﬁc guides

Food and drink Accademia Italiana della Cucina La Cucina. Perhaps the widest selection of authentic Italian recipes you can ﬁnd in one volume, and certainly the best available introduction to the regional variations in Italian cuisine. A lovely lesson in the simplicity and diversity of Italian food, though perhaps not quite as practical as Marcella Hazan’s book. Elizabeth David Italian Food. The writer who introduced Italian cuisine – and ingredients – to Britain. Ahead of its time when it was published in the 1950s, and imbued with all the enthusiasm and diversity of Italian cookery. An inspirational book. David Downie & Alison Harris Food Wine Rome; Food Wine Italian Riviera

& Genoa. Part of the “Terroir Guides” series, these beautiful books tell you everything you need to know about the food and wine of these regions, with background on produce and ingredients, beautiful photos and great recommendations for authentic local restaurants and shops. Marcella Hazan The Classic Italian Cookbook. A step-by-step guide that never compromises the spirit or authenticity of the recipes, Hazan draws her recipes from all over the peninsula, emphasizing the intrinsically regional nature of Italian food. The best Italian cookbook for the novice in the kitchen. Fred Plotkin Italy for the Gourmet Traveller. Comprehensive, regionby-region guide to the best of Italian

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cuisine, with a foodie’s guide to major towns and cities, a gazetteer of restaurants and specialist food and wine shops, and descriptions of local dishes, with recipes. Claudia Roden The Food of Italy. A culinary classic, this regional guide takes in local recipes from the people

for whom they are second nature. Authentic and accessible. Michèle Shah Wines of Italy. An excellent pocket guide to the regional wines and winemaking techniques of Italy, with up-to-date information on the best current producers and labels.

Ancient literature

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Catullus The Poems of Catullus. Although his name is associated primarily with the tortured love poems addressed to Lesbia, Catullus also produced some acerbic satirical verse; this collection does full justice to his range.

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Cicero Selected Works. The rhetorical prose of Cicero was for many Renaissance scholars the paragon of literary style, and his political ideas provided similarly fertile material for discussion. Juvenal The Sixteen Satires. Savage attacks on the follies and excesses of Rome at the end of the ﬁrst century and start of the second. Livy The Early History of Rome. Lively chronicle of the city’s evolution from the days of Romulus and Remus. Marcus Aurelius Meditations. The classic text of Stoic thought, written by one of the few Roman emperors it’s easy to admire. Petronius Satyricon. A fragmentary, spicy narrative written by one of

Nero’s inner circle; Fellini’s ﬁlm of the same name gives a pretty accurate idea of the tone. Seneca Four Tragedies and Octavia. Violent, fast-paced drama from Nero’s one-time tutor. The only plays to have survived from the Roman Empire. Suetonius The Twelve Caesars. The inside story of Caligula, Nero, Domitian and others, elegantly written and very enjoyable, by the private secretary to Hadrian, who made the most of his unique access to the annals of recent imperial history. Tacitus Annals of Imperial Rome. Covers much of the terrain dealt with by Suetonius, but from the stance of the diligent historian and serious moralist. Virgil The Aeneid. The central work of Latin literature, depicting the adventures of Aeneas after the fall of Troy, and thus celebrating Rome’s heroic lineage.

Italian classics

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Dante Alighieri The Divine Comedy. No work in any other language bears comparison with Dante’s poetic exegesis of the moral scheme of God’s Creation; in late medieval Italy it was venerated both as a book of almost scriptural authority and as the ultimate reﬁnement of the vernacular Tuscan language.

Ludovico Ariosto Orlando Furioso. Italy’s chivalrous epic, set in Charlemagne’s Europe; has its exciting moments, but most readers would be grateful for an abridged version. Giovanni Boccaccio The Decameron. Set in the plague-racked Florence of 1348, this assembly of one hundred

short stories is a fascinating social record as well as a constantly diverting comic sequence. Benvenuto Cellini Autobiography. The shamelessly egocentric record of the travails and triumphs of the sculptor and goldsmith’s career – one of the freshest literary productions of its time. Leonardo da Vinci Notebooks. Miscellany of speculation and observation from the universal genius of Renaissance Italy – essential to any understanding of the man.

Petrarch Selections from the Canzoniere. Often described as the ﬁrst modern poet, by virtue of his preoccupation with worldly fame and secular love, Petrarch wrote some of the Italian language’s greatest lyrics.

Giorgio Bassani The Garden of the Finzi-Continis. Gentle, elegiac novel, set in the Jewish community of Ferrara during the Fascist period, on the eve of the mass deportations to Germany. Infused with a sense of regret for a Europe that died with the war. Italo Calvino If on a Winter’s Night a Traveller. Calvino’s ﬁction became increasingly concerned with the nature of ﬁction itself, and this witty novel marks the culmination of the process. Other titles include The Castle of Crossed Destinies, Invisible Cities, Difficult Loves and Mr Palomar. Andrea Camilleri The Shape of Water, The Terracotta Dog, The Snack Thief and others. Camillieri is perhaps the best known and most translated of the current wave of Italian crime writers, and his Inspector Montalbano series, set in Sicily, has achieved worldwide popularity. Rightly so – the plots, characterization (Montelbano is a classic maverick cop with a complicated personal life), and contemporary Sicilian background make for an absorbing and entertaining read.

Giancarlo De Cataldo (ed) Crimini. A great collection of short stories by Italy’s best crime writers. It of course includes something by the best-known in English, Andrea Camilleri, but there are a lot of other gems, too, from Niccolò Ammaniti, Carlo Lucarelli and others.

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Modern Italian literature

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Giacomo Leopardi Canti. Generally considered the greatest Italian poet since Dante, and a formative inﬂuence on the poets who followed.

Alessandro Manzoni The Betrothed. No poolside thriller, but a skilful melding of the romance of two young lovers and a sweeping historical drama, all suffused with an almost religious sense of human destiny. First published in 1823, but reissued in 1840 after Manzoni had improved the novel’s diction through study of the Tuscan dialect – a landmark in the transition towards linguistic nationalism.

Umberto Eco The Name of the Rose. An allusive, tightly plotted, monastic detective story. Check out also his equally hyped, though rather more impenetrable, Foucault’s Pendulum and Baudolino, another medieval fable, this time interspersed with reﬂections on the postmodern age. Carlo Emilio Gadda That Awful Mess on Via Merulana. Superﬁcially a detective story, this celebrated modernist novel is so dense a weave of physical reality and literary diversions that the reader is led away from a solution rather than towards it; it enjoys the sort of status in Italian ﬁction that Ulysses has in English. Natalia Ginzburg The Things We Used to Say. The constraints of family life are a dominant theme in Ginzburg’s writing, and her own upbringing is

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the source material for this characteristically rigorous yet lyrical work. Michele Giuttari A Florentine Death, A Death in Tuscany, The Death of a Maﬁa Don. Giuttari is the former police chief of Florence, and he uses all his knowledge and experience to put together these tightly plotted police procedurals, with lots of local colour.

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Giuseppe di Lampedusa The Leopard. The most famous Sicilian novel, written after the war but recounting the dramatic nineteenth-century transition from Bourbon to Piemontese rule from an aristocrat’s point of view. A good character-study and rich with incidental detail, including some nice description of the Sicilian landscape. Carlo Levi Christ Stopped at Eboli. First published in 1945, this memoir, describing Levi’s exile to a remote region of Basilicata by the Fascists, was the ﬁrst to awaken modern Italy to the plight of its southern regions. Primo Levi If This is a Man/ The Truce; The Periodic Table. Levi’s experiences in Auschwitz are the main subject of If This is a Man, while The Truce records his journey back to Turin after his liberation. Levi’s training as a chemist forms the background of The Periodic Table, a mixture of autobiographical reﬂection and practical observation. All show an unwavering exactitude of recollection and judgement. Elsa Morante History. Capturing daily Roman life during the last war, this is probably the most vivid ﬁctional picture of the conﬂict as seen from the city.

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Alberto Moravia The Conformist. A psychological novel about a man sucked into the abyss of Fascism by his desperation to conform; The Woman of Rome is an earlier work, a teeming and sensual novel, centred on the activities of a Roman prostitute.

Pier Paolo Pasolini A Violent Life. This super-naturalistic evocation of life in the slum areas of Rome caused a scandal when it was published in 1959, but is now considered one of the classics of Italian postwar ﬁction. Cesare Pavese Moon and the Bonﬁre (OP); Devil in the Hills. Exploring the difficulties of achieving an acceptance of one’s past, Moon and the Bonﬁre was written shortly before Pavese’s suicide at the age of 42; Devil in the Hills is an early collection of tales of adolescence in and around Turin. Leonardo Sciascia Sicilian Uncles; The Wine Dark Sea; The Day of the Owl (OP). Writing again and again about his native Sicily, Sciascia has made of that island “a metaphor of the modern world”. Economically written, Sciascia’s short stories are packed with incisive insights, and infused with the author’s humane and sympathetic views of its people. The Moro Affair is an illuminating account of the kidnapping of the ex-prime minister Aldo Moro by the Brigate Rosse in 1978. Ignazio Silone Fontamara; Bread and Wine; The Seed Beneath the Snow. From his exile in Switzerland, Silone wrote about his native Abruzzo, and these three novels have now been published in one volume by Steerforth Press, titled The Abruzzo Trilogy. Fontamara tells the tale of a small village driven to revolt against its landlords and the Fascist thugs sent to enforce their rule while Bread and Wine is a more introspective work, examining Silone’s political commitment and religious beliefs. Italo Svevo Zeno’s Conscience. Complete critical indifference to his early efforts so discouraged Svevo that he gave up writing altogether, until encouraged by James Joyce, who taught him English in Trieste. The resultant novel is a unique creation, a comic portrait of a character at once wistful, helpless and irrepressible.

Ancient Rome in fiction Lindsey Davis Venus in Copper, The Jupiter Myth and others. These crime novels set in the age of the Emperor Vespasian follow super-sleuth Marcus Didius Falco as he unpicks mysteries and dastardly doings. Robert Graves I Claudius; Claudius the God. Having translated Suetonius’s Twelve Caesars, Graves used the madness and corruption of the Imperial Age to create a gripping, if not necessarily historically accurate tale. The classic book on the imperial Caesars. Allan Massie Augustus, Tiberius, Caesar. A trilogy of novels that tells the stories of the three emperors as if they were recently discovered autobiographies. Massie’s historical precision and careful dramatization hold up well. Thornton Wilder The Ides of March (OP). A suppositional reconstruction of the last year of the life of Julius Caesar through his letters, writings and reports. A brilliant portrayal of the burdens and isolation of leadership.

William Weaver (ed) Open City: Seven Writers in Postwar Rome (OP). A nicely produced anthology of pieces by the cream of Italy’s twentiethcentury novelists – Bassani, Silone, Ginzburg, Moravia, among others – selected and with an introduction by one of the most eminent Italian translators of recent years.

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Elio Vittorini Conversations in Sicily. A Sicilian emigrant returns from the

north of Italy after ﬁfteen years to see his mother on her birthday. The conversations of the title are with the people he meets on the way, and reveal a poverty- and disease-ridden Sicily.

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Giovanni Verga Cavalleria Rusticana; Sparrow; The House by the Medlar Tree. Verga, born in the nineteenth century in Catania, spent several years in various European salons before coming home to write his best work. Much of it is a reaction against the pseudosophistication of society circles, stressing the simple lives of ordinary people, accompanied by a heavy smattering of emotion, wounded honour and feuds to the death.

Literature set in Italy Michael Dibdin Ratking, Vendetta, Cabal, Dead Lagoon. The late Michael Dibdin’s Aurelio Zen is a classically eccentric loner detective, and this is a classic series of well-plotted detective yarns. However, Dibdin is as interested in the country as he is in his characters, and these novels tell us plenty about the way Italian society operates, as well as touring an array of locations, from Rome to Naples to Venice and Sardinia. E.M. Forster A Room with a View. Set in and around Florence, this is the ultimate novel about how the nature

of the Italian light, temperament and soul can make the English upper classes lose their heads. James Hamilton-Paterson Cooking with Fernet-Branca. An excellent comic novel which is packed full of laughs at everyone’s expense – sad middle-aged writers, foodies, and most of all the middle-class English expat community in Tuscany. Nathaniel Hawthorne The Marble Faun. A nineteenth-century take on the lives of Anglo-American expats in the Eternal City: sculptors, passionate lovers – the usual mad mix and

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excessive goings-on that you’ll still ﬁnd today. Ernest Hemingway A Farewell to Arms. Hemingway’s ﬁrst novel is partly based on his experiences as a teenage ambulance-driver on Italy’s northeast front during World War I – a terse account of the futility of this particular corner of the conﬂict.

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David Hewson A Season for the Dead; The Sacred Cut; Villa of Mysteries; and others. Hewson’s Nic Costa is the idealistic young Italian detective with an ex-commie father and a hard-bitten partner in these preposterous police procedurals set in Rome.

| Books

Patricia Highsmith The Talented Mr Ripley. The novel follows the fortunes of the eponymous hero through Italy as he exchanges his own identity for that of the man he has murdered. Good locations in the ﬁlm of the book, starring Matt Damon and directed by Anthony Minghella. Donna Leon Death at La Fenice; A Venetian Reckoning; Fatal Remedies; and others. Venice-based crime thrillers featuring Guido Brunetti, the honest police commissario in a world of high-level intrigue and corruption. Thomas Mann Death in Venice. Irascible and ultra-traditional old novelist visits Venice to recover after a breakdown and becomes obsessed with a beautiful young boy, awakening an internal debate about the nature of beauty and art to which the city is a ﬁtting and resonant backdrop. Ian McEwan The Comfort of Strangers. An ordinary young English couple fall foul of a sexually ambiguous predator in a Venice which is never named, but evoked by means of arch little devices such as quotes from Ruskin. Magdalen Nabb Death of an Englishman; The Innocent; The Monster

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of Florence; and others. These thrillers do for Florence what Donna Leon does for Venice, and their lead character, police marshall Salvatore Guarnaccia, is a reassuringly complicated and sympathetic ﬁgure. Susan Sontag The Volcano Lover. A profound and surprising novel, based on the notorious affair between Nelson and Lady Hamilton, wife of the volcano-ﬁxated English ambassador to Naples. An absolute must-read for visitors to Naples. Stendhal The Charterhouse of Parma. A panoramic nineteenth-century French novel that dramatizes the struggles and intrigues of the Italian Papal States before Uniﬁcation. A wonderful read, and a good insight into the era to boot. Irving Stone The Agony and the Ecstasy. Stone’s dramatized life of Michelangelo, popular “faction” that is entertaining even if it doesn’t exactly get to the root of the artist’s work and times. Barry Unsworth After Hannibal; Stone Virgin (OP). After Hannibal is a black comedy of expat life, set in Umbria, where the author lives. The earlier Stone Virgin, set in Venice, is about a conservation expert who falls under the spell of a statue of the Madonna he is working on. Roger Vailland The Law (OP). This evocation of life in a small Pugliese town, of its people, etiquette and harsh tradition, is tight, considered and utterly convincing. Salley Vickers Miss Garnet’s Angel. The unique atmosphere of Venice is captured in this tale of a desiccated spinster awakened by the city to the ﬁner things in life. The author’s sound knowledge of the place and its art triumphs over a potentially hackneyed tale.

Language

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Language Italian......................................................................................1039

Pronunciation .........................................................................1039

Words and phrases ................................................................1039

Italian menu reader ................................................................1042

Glossary of artistic and architectural terms...........................1046

1038

Italian

T

he ability to speak English confers prestige in Italy, and there’s often no shortage of people willing to show off their knowledge. But using at least some Italian, however tentatively, can mark you out from the masses in a country used to hordes of tourists. The words and phrases below should help you master the basics, and the Rough Guide Italian Phrasebook – which packs a huge amount of vocabulary into a handy dictionary format – is a useful back-up. There are lots of good pocket dictionaries – the Collins range represents the best all-round choice.

c before e or i is pronounced as in church, while ch before the same vowels is hard, as in cat. sci or sce are pronounced as in sheet and shelter respectively. g is soft before e or i, as in geranium; hard before h, as in garlic.

gn has the ni sound of onion. gl in Italian is softened to something like li in English, as in stallion. h is not aspirated, as in honour.

When speaking to strangers, the third person is the polite form (ie lei instead of tu for “you”). It’s also worth remembering that Italians don’t use “please” and “thank you” half as much as English speakers: it’s all implied in the tone, though, if in doubt, err on the polite side.

| Pronunciation • Words and phrases

Italian is one of the easiest European languages to learn, especially if you already have a smattering of French or Spanish. Pronunciation is straightforward: Italian words are generally stressed on the penultimate syllable unless an accent (´ or `) denotes otherwise, and words are usually enunciated with exaggerated, openmouthed clarity. The only difficulties you’re likely to encounter are the few consonants that are different from English:

L ANGUAGE

Pronunciation

Words and phrases Basics good morning good afternoon/ evening goodnight hello/goodbye

goodbye yes

buongiorno buonasera buonanotte ciao (informal; to strangers use phrases above) arrivederci si

no please thank you (very much) you’re welcome all right/that’s ok how are you? I’m ﬁne

no per favore (molte/mille) grazie prego va bene come stai/sta? (informal/formal) bene

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do you speak english? I don’t understand I don’t know excuse me excuse me (in a crowd) I’m sorry I’m here on holiday I’m English/Irish/ Welsh/Scottish/ American Australian Canadian a New Zealander

parla inglese? non ho capito non lo so mi scusi permesso mi dispiace Sono qui in vacanza Sono Inglese/irlandese Gallese/Scozzese Americano/a (m/f) Australiano/a (m/f) Canadese Neozelandese

What’s your name?

wait a minute! let’s go! here/there good/bad big/small cheap/expensive early/late hot/cold near/far quickly/slowly

Come ti chiami/si chiama? (informal/ formal) aspetta! andiamo! qui/là buono/cattivo grande/píccolo economico/caro presto/tardi caldo/freddo vicino/lontano velocemente/ lentamente

L ANGUAGE

Questions

| Words and phrases

where? where is/are…? when? what? what is it? how much/many?

dove? dov’è/dove sono…? quando? cosa? cos’è? quanto/quanti?

why? is it/is there…? What time does it open/close? What’s it called in italian?

perché? c’è…? A che ora apre/chiude? Come si chiama in italiano?

ferry hydrofoil plane train Do I have to change? Which platform does it leave from? How long does it take? Can you tell me when to get off? I’d like a ticket to…

il traghetto l’aliscafo l’aereo il treno Devo cambiare? Da quale binario parte? Quanto ci vuole?

Travel and directions Where is…? How do I get to…? the centre the (main) square the station the bus station the port Turn left/right Go straight on How far is it to…? What time does the …arrive/leave? bus coach

Dov’è…? Per arrivare a…? il centro la piazza (principale) la stazione l’autostazione il porto Giri a sinistra/destra Vai sempre diritto Quant’è lontano a…? A che ora arriva/ parte…? l’autobus il pullman

one-way return

Mi può dire dove scendere? Vorrei un biglietto per… solo andata andata e ritorno

entrata/uscita arrivi/partenze ingresso líbero signori/signore gabinetto/bagno libero/occupato vietato fumare

open/closed closed for restoration closed for holidays pull/push cash desk out of order ring the bell

aperto/chiuso chiuso per restauro chiuso per ferie tirare/spingere cassa guasto suonare il campanello

Signs

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entrance/exit arrivals/departures free entrance gentlemen/ladies wc vacant/engaged no smoking

Accommodation I’d like to book a room I have a booking Is there a hotel nearby? Do you have…? a single/double/ triple a bed for one/two/ three night/s for one/two week/s with a double bed

with a balcony hot/cold water How much is it? Is breakfast included? Do you have anything cheaper? Can I see the room? I’ll take it hotel hostel campsite lift key full/half board

con balcone acqua calda/fredda Quanto costa? È compresa la prima colazione? Ha qualcosa che costa di meno? Posso vedere la cámera? Lo/La prendo (m/f) albergo ostello campeggio ascensore chiave pensione completa/ mezza pensione

I’d like to reserve a Vorrei riservare una table (for two) távola (per due) Can we sit outside? Possiamo sederci fuori? Can I order? Posso ordinare? I’m a vegetarian Sono vegetariano/a (m/f) Does it contain C’è carne dentro? meat? It’s good È buono

The bill, please Is service included? (set) menu waiter/waitress knife fork spoon plate bicchiere

Il conto, per favore Il servizio è incluso? menù (ﬁsso) cameriere/a coltello forchetta cucchiaio piatto glass

bank money exchange post ofﬁce tourist ofﬁce shop supermarket market ATM

banca cambio posta ufﬁcio turistico negozio supermercato mercato Bancomat

| Words and phrases

Restaurants

L ANGUAGE

with twin beds with a shower/ bath

Vorrei prenotare una cámera Ho una prenotazione C’è un albergo qui vicino? Ha…? una cámera singola/ doppia/tripla un letto per una/due/ tre notti per una/due settimana/e con un letto matrimoniale con due letti con doccia/ bagno

Shopping and services I’d like to buy… How much does it cost/do they cost? It’s too expensive with/without more/less enough, no more I’ll take it Do you take credit cards?

Vorrei comprare ... Quanto costa/cóstano? È troppo caro con/senza più/meno basta Lo/la prendo (m/f) Accettate carte di credito?

Days, times and months What time is it? It’s nine o’clock today tomorrow

Che ore sono? Sono le nove oggi domani

day after tomorrow yesterday now later

dopodomani ieri adesso più tardi

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in the morning in the afternoon in the evening Monday Tuesday Wednesday Thursday Friday Saturday Sunday January

di mattina nel pomeriggio di sera lunedì martedì mercoledì giovedì venerdì sabato domenica gennaio

February March April May June July August September October November December

febbraio marzo aprile maggio giugno luglio agosto settembre ottobre novembre dicembre

uno due tre quattro cinque sei sette otto nove dieci undici dodici tredici quattordici quindici sedici diciassette diciotto

19 20 21 22 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100 101 110 200 500 1000 5000

diciannove venti ventuno ventidue trenta quaranta cinquanta sessanta settanta ottanta novanta cento centuno centodieci duecento cinquecento mille cinquemila

olive pane pepe riso sale uova yogurt zucchero zuppa

olives bread pepper rice salt eggs yoghurt sugar soup

Numbers

L ANGUAGE

| Italian menu reader

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18

Italian menu reader Basics and snacks

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aceto aglio biscotti burro caramelle cioccolato formaggio frittata marmellata olio

vinegar garlic biscuits butter sweets chocolate cheese omelette jam oil

The ﬁrst course (il primo) brodo minestrina minestrone pasta al forno

pasta e fagioli pastina in brodo stracciatella

clear broth clear broth with small pasta shapes thick vegetable soup baked pasta, usually with minced meat, tomato and cheese soup with pasta and beans pasta in clear broth broth with egg

panzarotti pappardelle penne pici ravioli

rigatoni

Pasta bucatini

capellini

farfalle fettuccine fusilli gnocchi

lasagne

linguini macaroni maltagliati orecchiette paccheri

tagliatelle

tonnarelli tortellini/tortolloni

tortiglioni

Pasta sauce (salsa) amatriciana arrabbiata bolognese burro carbonara funghi panna parmigiano peperoncino pesto pomodoro puttanesca

ragù vongole

cubed bacon and tomato (“angry”) spicy tomato with chillies meat butter cream, ham and beaten egg mushroom cream parmesan cheese olive oil, garlic and fresh chillies ground basil, garlic and pine nuts tomato “whorish”, with tomato, anchovy, olive oil and oregano meat clams

| Italian menu reader

conchiglie

spaghetti

L ANGUAGE

cannelloni

thick, hollow spaghettitype pasta common in Rome and Lazio thick pasta tubes usually ﬁlled with veal thin noodles of pasta, thicker than capelli d’angeli seashell-shaped pasta shapes, good for capturing thick sauces literally “butterﬂies”, or bow ties ﬂat, ribbon-like egg noodles tight spirals of pasta potato and pasta dumplings, often served “alla sorrentina”, or with tomato and basil sauce big squares of egg noodles, most commonly baked in the oven with white sauce and beef ragù thin, ﬂat noodles, often served with seafood small tubes of pasta ﬂat triangles of pasta, often used in soup small ear-shaped pieces of pasta large tubes of pasta

ﬁlled pasta shapes from Puglia thick, ﬂat egg noodles the most common tubes of pasta thick Tuscan spaghetti literally “little turnips” – ﬂat, square parcels of ﬁlled pasta large, curved and ridged tubes of pasta – larger than penne but smaller than paccheri the most common pasta shape of all – long, thin, non-egg noodles ﬂat ribbon egg noodles, slightly thinner than fettuccine another name for bucatini triangles of ﬁlled pasta folded into rounded shapes narrow rigatoni

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The second course (il secondo) Meat (carne)

L ANGUAGE

| Italian menu reader

agnello bistecca carpaccio cervello cinghiale coniglio costolette fegato maiale manzo ossobuco pancetta pollo polpette rognoni salsiccia saltimbocca spezzatino trippa vitello

Fish (pesce) and shellﬁsh (crostacei) lamb steak slices of raw beef brain, usually calves’ wild boar rabbit cutlet, chop liver pork beef shin of veal bacon chicken meatballs kidneys sausage veal with ham stew tripe veal

acciughe anguilla aragosta baccalà calamari cefalo cozze dentice gamberetti gamberi granchio merluzzo ostriche pesce spada polpo rospo sampiero sarde sogliola tonno trota vongole

anchovies eel lobster dried salted cod squid grey mullet mussels sea bream shrimps prawns crab cod oysters swordﬁsh octopus monkﬁsh John Dory sardines sole tuna trout clams

Vegetables (contorni) and salad (insalata) asparagi carcioﬁ carcioﬁni cavolﬁori cavolo cipolla erbe aromatiche fagioli fagiolini ﬁnocchio

asparagus artichokes artichoke hearts cauliﬂower cabbage onion herbs beans green beans fennel

funghi insalata verde/mista lenticchie melanzane patate peperoni piselli pomodori radicchio spinaci

mushrooms green salad/mixed salad lentils aubergine potatoes peppers peas tomatoes red salad leaves spinach

alla pizzaiola

cooked with tomato sauce on the spit roast well done boiled cooked raw

Cooking terms

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al dente al ferri al forno al sangue alla brace alla griglia alla milanese

ﬁrm, not overcooked grilled without oil baked rare barbecued grilled fried in egg and breadcrumbs

allo spiedo arrosto ben cotto bollito/lesso cotto crudo

fritto in umido

fried stewed

ripieno stracotto

stuffed braised, stewed

pecorino

strong, hard sheep’s cheese smooth, round mild cheese, made from buffalo or sheep’s milk; sometimes smoked soft, white sheep’s cheese

Cheese (formaggio) dolcelatte fontina gorgonzola mozzarella

creamy blue cheese northern Italian cheese, often used in cooking soft, strong, blue-veined cheese soft white cheese, traditionally made from buffalo’s milk

provola/provolone

ricotta

Desserts (dolci), fruit (frutta) and nuts (noci) macedonia mandorle mele melone pere pesche pinoli pistacchio sorbetto torta uva zabaglione

mineral water (ﬁzzy/still)

succo

zuppa inglese

fruit salad almonds apples melon pears peaches pine nuts pistachio nut sorbet cake, tart grapes dessert made with eggs, sugar and Marsala wine triﬂe

| Italian menu reader

ﬁchi ﬁchi d’india frágole gelato limone

macaroons pineapple watermelon peanuts oranges bananas persimmons cherries watermelon pastry tart with jam or chocolate topping ﬁgs prickly pears strawberries ice cream lemon

L ANGUAGE

amaretti ananas anguria arachidi arance banane cacchi ciliegie coccomero crostata

Drinks acqua minerale (con gas/senza gas) aranciata birra bottiglia caffè cioccolato caldo ghiaccio granita latte limonata spremuta spumante

orangeade beer bottle coffee hot chocolate ice iced drink with coffee or fruit milk lemonade fresh fruit juice sparkling wine

tè tonica vino rosso bianco rosato secco dolce litro mezzo quarto caraffa salute!

concentrated fruit juice with sugar tea tonic water wine red white rosé dry sweet litre half quarter carafe cheers!

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Glossary of artistic and architectural terms agora square or marketplace in an ancient Greek city ambo a kind of simple pulpit, popular in Italian medieval churches apse semicircular recess at the altar (usually eastern) end of a church architrave the lowest part of the entablature atrium inner courtyard baldachino a canopy on columns, usually placed over the altar in a church

L ANGUAGE

basilica originally a Roman administrative building, adapted for early churches; distinguished by lack of transepts belvedere a terrace or lookout point

| Glossary of artistic and architectural terms

caldarium the steam room of a Roman bath campanile bell tower, sometimes detached, usually of a church

entablature the section above the capital on a classical building, below the cornice ex voto artefact designed in thanksgiving to a saint fresco wall-painting technique in which the artist applies paint to wet plaster for a more permanent ﬁnish loggia roofed gallery or balcony metope a panel on the frieze of a Greek temple Mithraism pre-Christian cult associated with the Persian god of light, who slew a bull and fertilized the world with its blood nave central space in a church, usually ﬂanked by aisles

capital top of a column

Pantocrator usually refers to an image of Christ, portrayed with outstretched arms

Catalan-Gothic hybrid form of architecture, mixing elements of ﬁfteenth-century Spanish and northern European styles

piano nobile main ﬂoor of a palazzo, usually the ﬁrst

cella sanctuary of a temple chancel part of a church containing the altar chiaroscuro the balance of light and shade in a painting, and the skill of the artist in depicting the contrast between the two ciborium another word for baldachino, see above cornice the top section of a classical facade cortile galleried courtyard or cloisters cosmati work decorative mosaic-work on marble, usually highly coloured, found in early Christian Italian churches, especially in Rome; derives from the name Cosma, a common name among families of marble workers at the time cryptoporticus underground passageway cyclopean walls fortiﬁcations built of huge, rough stone blocks, common in the pre-Roman settlements of Lazio

1046

Decumanus Maximus the main street of a Roman town – the second cross-street was known as the Decumanus Inferiore

polyptych painting on several joined wooden panels portico covered entrance to a building, or porch presepio/presepe Christmas crib putti cherubs reliquary receptacle for a saint’s relics, usually bones; often highly decorated sgrafﬁto decorative technique whereby one layer of plaster is scratched to form a pattern stereobate visible base of any building, usually a Greek temple stucco plaster made from water, lime, sand and powdered marble, used for decorative work thermae baths, usually elaborate buildings in Roman villas triptych painting on three joined wooden panels trompe l’oeil work of art that deceives the viewer by means of tricks with perspective

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Small print and

Index

1049

A Rough Guide to Rough Guides Published in 1982, the first Rough Guide – to Greece – was a student scheme that became a publishing phenomenon. Mark Ellingham, a recent graduate in English from Bristol University, had been travelling in Greece the previous summer and couldn’t find the right guidebook. With a small group of friends he wrote his own guide, combining a highly contemporary, journalistic style with a thoroughly practical approach to travellers’ needs. The immediate success of the book spawned a series that rapidly covered dozens of destinations. And, in addition to impecunious backpackers, Rough Guides soon acquired a much broader and older readership that relished the guides’ wit and inquisitiveness as much as their enthusiastic, critical approach and value-formoney ethos. These days, Rough Guides include recommendations from shoestring to luxury and cover more than 200 destinations around the globe, including almost every country in the Americas and Europe, more than half of Africa and most of Asia and Australasia. Our ever-growing team of authors and photographers is spread all over the world, particularly in Europe, the US and Australia.

S M AL L PRI N T

In the early 1990s, Rough Guides branched out of travel, with the publication of Rough Guides to World Music, Classical Music and the Internet. All three have become benchmark titles in their fields, spearheading the publication of a wide range of books under the Rough Guide name.

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Including the travel series, Rough Guides now number more than 350 titles, covering: phrasebooks, waterproof maps, music guides from Opera to Heavy Metal, reference works as diverse as Conspiracy Theories and Shakespeare, and popular culture books from iPods to Poker. Rough Guides also produce a series of more than 120 World Music CDs in partnership with World Music Network. Visit www.roughguides.com to see our latest publications.

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Rough Guide credits Text editors: Natasha Foges and Amanda Tomlin Layout: Nikhil Agarwal Cartography: Deshpal Dabas Picture editor: Sarah Cummins Production: Rebecca Short Proofreader: Diane Margolis Cover design: Nicole Newman, Dan May, Chloë Roberts Photographers: Jon Cunningham, Michelle Grant, Chris Hutty, Roger d’Olivere Mapp, James McConnachie, Martin Richardson, Helena Smith, Karen Trist Editorial: London Andy Turner, Keith Drew, Edward Aves, Alice Park, Lucy White, Jo Kirby, James Smart, Róisín Cameron, James Rice, Emma Beatson, Emma Gibbs, Kathryn Lane, Monica Woods, Mani Ramaswamy, Harry Wilson, Lucy Cowie, Alison Roberts, Lara Kavanagh, Eleanor Aldridge, Ian Blenkinsop, Joe Staines, Matthew Milton, Tracy Hopkins; Delhi Madhavi Singh, Jalpreen Kaur Chhatwal, Jubbi Francis

Design & Pictures: London Scott Stickland, Dan May, Diana Jarvis, Mark Thomas, Nicole Newman, Emily Taylor; Delhi Umesh Aggarwal, Ajay Verma, Jessica Subramanian, Ankur Guha, Pradeep Thapliyal, Sachin Tanwar, Anita Singh, Sachin Gupta Production: Liz Cherry, Louise Daly, Erika Pepe Cartography: London Ed Wright, Katie LloydJones; Delhi Rajesh Chhibber, Ashutosh Bharti, Rajesh Mishra, Animesh Pathak, Jasbir Sandhu, Swati Handoo, Lokamata Sahu Marketing, Publicity & roughguides.com: Liz Statham Digital Travel Publisher: Peter Buckley Reference Director: Andrew Lockett Operations Coordinator: Becky Doyle Publishing Director (Travel): Clare Currie Commercial Manager: Gino Magnotta Managing Director: John Duhigg

This tenth edition published March 2011 by Rough Guides Ltd, 80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL 11, Community Centre, Panchsheel Park, New Delhi 110017, India

Penguin Books Ltd, 80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL Penguin Group (USA) 375 Hudson Street, NY 10014, USA Penguin Group (Australia) 250 Camberwell Road, Camberwell, Victoria 3124, Australia Penguin Group (NZ) 67 Apollo Drive, Mairangi Bay, Auckland 1310, New Zealand Rough Guides is represented in Canada by Tourmaline Editions Inc. 662 King Street West, Suite 304, Toronto, Ontario M5V 1M7

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Distributed by the Penguin Group

Printed in Germany by GGP Media GmbH © Rob Andrews, Ros Belford, Jonathan Buckley, Martin Dunford, Tim Jepson, Lucy Ratcliffe and Celia Woolfrey, 2010 Maps © Rough Guides No part of this book may be reproduced in any form without permission from the publisher except for the quotation of brief passages in reviews. 1064pp includes index A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library ISBN: 978-1-84836-717-3 The publishers and authors have done their best to ensure the accuracy and currency of all the information in The Rough Guide to Italy, however, they can accept no responsibility for any loss, injury, or inconvenience sustained by any traveller as a result of information or advice contained in the guide. 1 3 5 7 9 8 6 4 2

S M AL L PRI N T

Publishing information

Cover concept by Peter Dyer. Typeset in Bembo and Helvetica to an original design by Henry Iles.

Help us update We’ve gone to a lot of effort to ensure that the tenth edition of The Rough Guide to Italy is accurate and up-to-date. However, things change – places get “discovered”, opening hours are notoriously fickle, restaurants and rooms raise prices or lower standards. If you feel we’ve got it wrong or left something out, we’d like to know, and if you can remember the address, the price, the hours, the phone number, so much the better.

Please send your comments with the subject line “Rough Guide Italy Update” to E mail @uk.roughguides.com. We’ll credit all contributions and send a copy of the next edition (or any other Rough Guide if you prefer) for the very best emails. Find more travel information, connect with fellow travellers and book your trip on W www .roughguides.com

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Acknowledgements Ros Belford Thanks to Libby Chaplin, for a marathon drive, moral support and infinite patience. Stefano Rangoni and Daniela and Elena Gargano for dreamy hospitality and a window on Trentino food. And to Antonio and Assunta at Bar Matarazzo, Salina, where much of this book was written, for smiles every morning and making the best cornetti in Christendom. Martin Dunford Thanks for help, support and nights out to: Flo and Jerry, Allison Robertson and her family, Chris Botterill, Ros Belford, Vanessa Lenssen and others too numerous to mention. Plus also Natasha for pulling everything together with her usual aplomb, and to Caroline, Daisy and Lucy – for everything. Natasha Foges Thanks to Harriet Foges for finding the perfect Umbrian base, and to Will Widén for all the help, support and hot dinners.

S M AL L PRI N T

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Jeffrey Kennedy Thanks to Lila Yawn, Stefano Contoli and Erika Carpaneto. Lucy Ratcliffe Thanks to Stefania Gatta at ENIT in London for her all help and support as well as Giuseppe Pisilli from the Province of Como Tourist Board; Monica Viviani from the Province of Verona Tourism office; and Irene Lilla from the Distretto Turistico dei Laghi. Special thanks too to the Cipani family in Gardone and the Soresina family in Gargnano for their generous hospitality. Special mention, as always, goes to Charlotte, Nico and the other generations of the Donadoni family for all their patience and encouragement. Greg Ward Love and thanks to Sam, Jim and Ulli for sharing the work and play of some very hot times in Tuscany, and thanks Michele Machetti, Stefania Nuti, and Mario and Roberto Orlandi, for their generous help.

Readers’ letters Thanks to all the readers who have taken the time to write in with comments and suggestions (and apologies if we’ve inadvertently omitted or misspelt anyone’s name): Patricia Courtney; Phil and Viv Elce, Davis Falzani, Chris Isles; Giuliana Grande, Karen Phillips, Scott Ridge, Janet Sims, Michael Stansfield,

Luc & Miek Verhoeven, Manus Walsh, UH and MC Whiting, Ben Wilson.

Photo credits All photos © Rough Guides except the following:

Introduction

Italian food and wine colour section

Piazza San Pietro, Vatican City, Rome © Ian Cumming/Axiom Elba © Laura Ronchi/Getty Positano © Peter Adams/Corbis Roman Arena, Verona © Peter Schickert/ Photolibrary Mountain scene, South Tyrol © Gerhard Zwerger-Schoner/Photolibrary

Pasta with pesto © Hussenot/PhotoCuisine/ Corbis Merchant selling white truffles © Owen Franken/ Corbis

Things not to miss

Inter Milan and Juventus © Aflo Foto Agency/ Alamy Scudetto celebration, Piazza del Duomo, Milan © Carlo Brambilla/Alamy Juventus V AC Milan © Stefano Rellandini/ Reuters/Corbis Inter celebration, Milan © Carlo Brambilla/Alamy AS Roma V Cesena at Rome’s Stadio Olimpico © Alberto Pizzoli/AFP/Getty Città di Palermo V Cagliari © Tullio M. Puglia © Getty Messina V Palermo © Alessandro Bianchi/ Reuters/Corbis Inter Milan V AC Milan, San Siro Stadium © Matthew Ashton/AMA/Corbis Fabio Cannavaro © Matthew Ashton/AMA/Corbis Claudio Gentile © Roland Witschel/dpa/Corbis

Black and whites

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p.62 Sacra di San Michele © Cavalli/Robert Harding/Corbis p.98 San Remo © Photolibrary p.214 Skier in Canazei © Henrik Trygg/Corbis p.344 Detail of an early Christian floor mosaic at the Basilica of Aquileia © Elio Ciol/Corbis p.370 Food shop, Bologna © Tim E White/Alamy p.580 Castel San Leo © bildagentur-online.com/ th-foto/Alamy p.706 Vado do Corno © Steve Middlehurst/Alamy p.732 Walkers on Cápri © International Photobank/Alamy p.796 Trulli, Alberobello © Philippe Lissac/ Godong/Corbis p.840 Santa Maria dell’Isola, Tropea © Richard Broadwell/Beateworks/Corbis

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01 The Pantheon, Rome © Ingolf Pompe/ Photolibrary 02 Hotel and winery in Tuscany © Atlantide Phototravel/Corbis 03 Basilica di Santa Croce, Lecce © Philippe Lissac/Godong/Corbis 07 Palazzo Ducale, Urbino © Doug Pearson/JAI/ Corbis 08 Mosaic, San Vitale Cathedral, Ravenna © Christel Gerstenberg/Corbis 12 Manarola, Cinque Terre © Owen Franken/ Corbis 13 Platter of local meats, Bologna © Stuart Kelley/Alamy 14 The Last Supper © The Gallery Collection/ Corbis 15 Sant’Andrea, Marciana, Elba © Atlantide Phototravel/Corbis 16 Interior of the Galleria degli Uffizi © Jean-Pierre Lescourret/Corbis 19 The Scrovegni Chapel, Padua © Stefano Rellandini/Reuters/Corbis 20 Brown Bear, Abruzzo © De Agostini/Getty 22 Basilica di San Francesco, Assisi © Gianni Giansanti/Sygma/Corbis 23 Hiking in the Dolomites © Atlantide Phototravel/Corbis 26 Matera © Mimmo Jodice/ Corbis 27 Vulcan Forging the Arms of Achilles © Arte & Immagini srl/Corbis

Italian football colour section

1053

Index Map entries are in colour.

A Abbadia San Salvatore ................................... 514 Abbazia di Fiastra......... 608 Abbazia di San Pietro in Valle ........................... 567 Abruzzo and Molise ........................... 705–730 Abruzzo and Molise .... 708 Abruzzo National Park ... 717 Acciaroli ........................ 792 accommodation...... 36–40

I NDE X

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agriturismo ......................... 37 B&Bs .................................. 37 camping ............................. 40 hostels................................ 37 hotels ................................. 36 prices ................................. 36 rifugi ................................... 40 self-catering ....................... 39

Achradina ..................... 919 Acireale ......................... 907 Aeolian Islands ... 893–903 Agrigento ...................... 928 agriturismo...................... 37 Agrópoli ........................ 791 airlines ............................ 29 Alagna ............................ 87 Alassio .......................... 119 Alba ................................ 83 Albania, travel to .......... 828 Albano Laziale .............. 694 Albenga ........................ 117 Alberese........................ 481 Alberobello ................... 819 Alghero ................ 980–982 Alghero ......................... 980 Alicudi ........................... 902 Alleghe .......................... 250 Alpe di Siusi ................. 243 Alpi Apuane .................. 472 Alta Via dei Monti Liguri ................................... 120 Altamura ....................... 817 alte vie .......................... 219 Amalfi ................... 784–786 Amalfi Coast, the ........................... 781–788 Amándola ..................... 610 Amelia ........................... 568 Anacápri ....................... 772 Ancona ......................... 596 Andalo .......................... 229

Andria ........................... 816 Anzio............................. 697 Aosta........................ 89–91 Aosta .............................. 89 apartments ..................... 39 Appiano ........................ 242 Aquileia ......................... 359 Arabba .......................... 235 Arbatax ......................... 970 architectural terms ..... 1046 architecture ..... 1012–1019 Arezzo .................. 516–521 Arezzo .......................... 517 Ariccia........................... 694 Aritzo ............................ 971 Arma di Taggia ............. 122 art ..................... 1003–1011 artistic terms............... 1046 Arvier .............................. 98 Arzachena..................... 974 Áscoli Piceno ...... 612–615 Áscoli Piceno ............... 612 Asinara.......................... 979 Ásolo ............................ 338 Aspromonte .................. 857 Assisi ................... 546–552 Assisi .................... 546–547 Asti ................................. 85 Atrani ............................ 786 Atri ................................ 722 Augustus ...................... 990

B B&Bs............................... 37 Bagnaia ........................ 690 Bagno Vignoni .............. 512 Baia .............................. 758 banks and exchange ...... 55 Barbágia, the ................ 968 Barbarians .................... 990 Barbiano ....................... 244 Barcola ......................... 357 Bardolino ...................... 211 Bardonecchia ................. 81 Bari....................... 811–816 Bari ............................... 812 Barolo ............................. 84 Baroque architecture ... 1017 Baroque art................. 1009 bars ..... 44, Italian food and wine colour section

Barúmini ....................... 961 Basilicata and Calabria ........................... 839–842 Basilicata and Calabria ................................... 842 Bassano del Grappa .... 336 bears, Marsican ............ 719 beer ................................ 43 Bellagio ......................... 191 Bellini, Giovanni .......... 1007 Belluno ......................... 340 Belvedere Marittimo ..... 852 Benevento .................... 780 Bergamo .............. 195–200 Bergamo ...................... 196 Berlusconi, Silvio ........ 1001 Bernini, Gianlorenzo ... 1017 Bevagna ....................... 554 Biella ............................... 86 Biodola ......................... 478 Blue Grotto, Cápri ........ 773 Bologna ............... 372–385 Bologna ........................ 375 Bolsena......................... 691 Bolzano................ 235–240 Bolzano ........................ 237 Bomarzo ....................... 691 Bominaco ..................... 712 books.......................... 1027 Borromean Islands ....... 182 Borromini, Francesco ................................. 1018 Bosa ............................. 965 Botticelli, Sandro ........ 1006 Bracciano ..................... 686 Bramante, Donato ...... 1016 Brenta Dolomites .......... 226 Brenta River .................. 310 Brescia................. 200–202 Brescia ......................... 201 Bressanone .................. 244 Breuil-Cervinia ................ 88 Brigate Rosse ............... 998 Bríndisi................. 825–827 Bríndisi ......................... 825 Brisighella ..................... 397 Brixen ........................... 244 Bruil ................................ 94 Bruneck ........................ 244 Brunico ......................... 244 buses ........................29, 32 Busseto ........................ 395 Byzantines .................... 990

C

Corniglia ....................... 132 Corniglio ....................... 395 Corno Grande............... 712 Cortina d’Ampezzo....... 247 Cortona......................... 521 Corvara ......................... 235 Cosenza........................ 858 Costa Smeralda............ 974 Costacciaro .................. 546 costs ............................... 52 Courmayeur .................... 95 Cremona .............. 171–173 crete, the ...................... 505 crime............................... 52 Cripta del Peccato Originale .................... 848 Crissolo .......................... 83 Crotone......................... 863 Crypt of Original Sin ..... 848 Cumae .......................... 758 Cupramontana.............. 599 cycling ............................ 35

I NDE X

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Cadenabbia .................. 190 Cágliari ................ 953–959 Cágliari ......................... 955 Cala Gonone ................ 970 Calabria, Basilicata and ........................... 839–842 Calabria, Basilicata and ................................... 842 Caldaro ......................... 242 Camigliatello ................. 860 Camogli ........................ 131 Campania ............ 731–794 Campania ..................... 734 Campi Flegrei ............... 757 camping.......................... 40 Campo Imperatore ....... 712 Campo Tures ................ 246 Campobasso ................ 728 Canazei......................... 234 Canneto ........................ 897 Cannigione ................... 974 Cannobio ...................... 183 canoeing ......................... 49 Capo Colonna .............. 865 Capo d’Otranto ............ 835 Capo Passero ............... 923 Capo Rizzuto ................ 865 Capo Vaticano .............. 854 Capoliveri...................... 479 Caprarola ...................... 687 Caprera ......................... 976 Cápri .................... 768–774 Cápri............................. 770 car rental ........................ 35 Caravaggio ................. 1009 Carisolo ........................ 227 Carnevale ....................... 45 Carrara.......................... 472 Carso, the ..................... 355 Casamícciola Terme ..... 776 Cascata delle Marmore ................................... 566 Casella .......................... 114 Caserta ......................... 780 Cassino......................... 696 Castel Gandolfo ........... 694 Castel Tirolo ................. 252 Castelfranco Veneto ..... 335 Castell’Arquato ............. 395 Castellammare del Golfo ................................... 939 Castellammare di Stabia ................................... 764 Castelli Romani ............ 692 Castello ........................ 608 Castello di Andora ........ 119

Castello di Fénis ............. 88 Castello di Sarre ............. 91 Castello Eurialo ............ 921 Castello Róncolo .......... 241 Castelluccio .................. 565 Castelmola ................... 907 Castiglione del Lago..... 538 Castiglione di Sicilia ..... 909 Catania ................ 910–915 Catania ......................... 911 Catanzaro ..................... 866 Catinaccio .................... 233 Cavalcata, festival ........ 978 Cavalese ....................... 232 Cavallini, Pietro........... 1004 caves, Grotta Gigante ...355 Cavo ............................. 478 Cavour, Count Camillo ... 996 Cefalù ........................... 890 Cernobbio..................... 189 Cerveteri ....................... 684 Certosa di Pavia ........... 170 Charles of Anjou ........... 993 Chiaiolella ..................... 779 Chianti .......................... 457 Chiavenna..................... 194 Chiessi .......................... 480 Chieti ............................ 723 children, travelling with... 58 Chisone Valley ................ 81 chocolate, Turin .............. 77 churches, visiting......55, 56 Cilento coast ................ 791 Cinque Terre ........ 129–134 Circumetnea railway ..... 909 Cisternino ..................... 820 Città di Castello ............ 539 Cittadella ...................... 336 Cividale del Friuli .......... 367 Civitavecchia ................ 685 climate ............................ 12 climbing .......................... 49 climbing, Dolomites ...... 220 clothing sizes.................. 50 Cocullo ......................... 716 coffee, Trieste ............... 353 Cogne ............................. 92 Colico ........................... 194 Colla Micheri ................ 119 Colle di Gran San Bernardo ..................................... 91 Comacchio ................... 402 Como ............................ 187 Como............................ 187 Compaccio ................... 243 Conegliano ................... 339 Cónero Riviera .............. 600 Constantine .................. 990 Contrada Petrapenta .... 848

D D’Annunzio, Gabriele.... 205 da Cortona, Pietro ...... 1018 da Vinci, Leonardo ..... 1007 Degioz ............................ 94 della Francesca, Piero ................................. 1006 Desenzano del Garda ... 203 Diamante ...................... 852 disabilities, travellers with ..................................... 58 Dolceacqua .................. 123 Dolomiti di Brenta......... 226 domestic flights .............. 35 Domodossola ................. 87 Donatello .................... 1005 Dorgali .......................... 969 drinking ....... 42, Italian food and wine colour section driving ............................. 33 Duino ............................ 358

E Easter ............................. 45 eating ... 41, Italian food and wine colour section Égadi Islands ................ 937 Egnázia ......................... 818 Elba ...................... 474–480 Elba .............................. 475

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electricity ........................ 53 emergencies ................... 52 Emilia-Romagna...369–414 Emilia-Romagna ...372–373 emperors, Roman ......... 990 Enfola ........................... 478 Enna ............................. 930 enotecas ..... 43, Italian food and wine colour section Eraclea Minoa............... 930 Ercolano ....................... 759 Érice ............................. 935 Etna, Mount .................. 908 Etruria ........................... 684 Etruscan art ................ 1003 Etruscans...................... 987 Eurail............................... 29

I NDE X

F

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Fabriano ....................... 598 Faenza .......................... 396 Fánes-Sénnes-Bráies National Park ............. 244 Fano ............................. 593 Fasano .......................... 818 Favignana ..................... 938 Federico da Montefeltro ................................... 586 Fermo ........................... 609 Ferninand of Aragon..... 994 Ferrara ................. 397–401 Ferrara.......................... 398 ferries.............................. 35 Aeolian Islands ................. 894 Albania and Greece ......... 828 Bay of Naples .................. 769 Capraia............................. 473 Elba .................................. 474 Sardinia ............................ 953 Trémiti Islands .................. 810

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Festival dei Due Mondi ................................... 561 festivals ................... 45–48 Fetovaia ........................ 480 Fié am Sciliar ................ 243 Fiero di Primiero ........... 230 Fiesole .......................... 456 Filicudi .......................... 901 film ................... 1020–1026 Finale Ligure ................. 116 flights ........................ 27–28 flights within Italy............ 35 FLORENCE .......... 418–455 Florence ............... 422–423 Florence, central ... 428–429 Accademia ....................... 442 accommodation ............... 424

arrival................................ 421 Baptistry ........................... 431 Bargello ............................ 437 bars .................................. 453 Biblioteca MediceaLaurenziana .................. 441 buses ............................... 421 cafés................................. 449 camping ........................... 427 Capella Brancacci ............ 448 Casa Buonarroti ............... 445 clubs ................................ 453 Duomo ............................. 430 fashion.............................. 454 film ................................... 454 Giardino di Boboli ............ 447 hostels.............................. 426 hotels ............................... 424 Mercato Centrale ............. 441 Museo Alinari Fotografia ...................................... 440 Museo Archeologico ........ 444 Museo dell’Opera del Duomo ...................................... 432 Museo dell’Opera di Santa Croce ............................ 445 Museo di San Marco........ 443 Museo di Storia della Scienza ...................................... 438 music................................ 454 Ognissanti ........................ 439 Oltrarno ............................ 445 Orsanmichele ................... 432 Palazzo Davanzati ............ 438 Palazzo Medici-Riccardi ...................................... 442 Palazzo Pitti ..................... 446 Palazzo Vecchio ............... 433 Piazza della Signoria ........ 433 Ponte Vecchio .................. 446 restaurants ....................... 451 San Lorenzo ..................... 441 San Miniato al Monte ....... 448 Santa Croce ..................... 444 Santa Maria del Carmine ... 448 Santa Maria Novella ......... 440 Santa Trìnita ..................... 439 Santissima Annunziata..... 443 Santo Spirito .................... 447 Spedale degli Innocenti ... 443 Uffizi, the .......................... 434

Foggia........................... 799 Fonni............................. 970 Fontana ........................ 778 Fonte Cerreto ............... 711 Fonti di Clitunno ........... 557 food ..... 41, Italian food and drink colour section food and drink terms ................................. 1042 football... 48, Italian football colour section Forío ............................. 777 Formia .......................... 701 Forte di Fenestrelle......... 82

Francavilla di Sicilia ...... 909 Franks ........................... 991 Frascati ......................... 693 Friuli–Venezia Giulia ........................... 343–368 Friuli-Venezia Giulia ..... 346

G Gaeta ............................ 701 Galatina ........................ 836 Gallipoli ......................... 837 Garda, village of ........... 211 Gardaland ..................... 204 Gardone Riviera............ 204 Gargano Promontory ........................... 803–809 Gargano Promontory... 804 Gargnano ...................... 206 Garibaldi, Giuseppe...... 996 gay and lesbian Italy ...... 53 Gennargentu Massif ..... 970 Genoa .................. 100–114 Genoa........................... 103 Genoa Old Town .......... 106 Genzano ....................... 694 Gerace .......................... 867 Giardini-Naxos.............. 907 Giardino dei Tarocchi ... 482 Gioco del Ponte, Pisa ...464 Giostra del Saracino, Arezzo ........................ 516 Giotto.......................... 1004 Glorenza ....................... 254 Glurns ........................... 254 Gole di Alcantara .......... 909 Golfo dei Poeti.............. 134 Golfo di Tigullio ............ 125 Gonzaga, the ................ 176 Gorizia .......................... 361 Gradara ........................ 593 Grado ........................... 360 Gran Paradiso National Park ............................. 92 Gran Sasso ................... 712 Gran Sasso National Park ........................... 711–714 Gravedona .................... 191 Gravina di Puglia .......... 817 Great Dolomites Road ................................... 249 Greece, travel to ........... 828 Greeks .......................... 987 Greve in Chianti ............ 458 Griante .......................... 190 Grosseto ....................... 480 Grostè ........................... 228

Grotta dello Smeraldo ...784 Grotta Gigante .............. 355 Grottaferrata ................. 693 Grottammare ................ 615 Grotte di Frassassi ....... 599 Gruppo di Sella ............ 234 Gubbio ................. 541–545 Gubbio ......................... 542 Guercino ....................... 595

H health .............................. 53 Herculaneum ....... 759–761 hiking .............................. 49 Cinque Terre ..................... 130 Dolomites ......................... 219

ice cream ........................ 10 Il Vittoriale ..................... 204 Imer .............................. 229 Imperia.......................... 119 information ..................... 57 insurance ........................ 54 internet ........................... 54 InterRail .......................... 29 Introd .............................. 92 Ischia ................... 774–779 Ischia ............................ 774 Isernia ........................... 727 Isola Bella ..................... 182 Isola Comacina............. 189 Isola dei Pescatori ........ 183 Isola Madre ................... 183 Isola San Giulio ............ 186 Isole Borromee ............. 182 Italian lakes ......... 180–211 Italian Lakes................. 142 Ivrea ................................ 86

J Jesi ............................... 599 Joyce, James ............... 352 Julius Caesar ................ 989

M

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I

Lacco Ameno ............... 776 La Conia ....................... 975 Ladins, the .................... 233 Lago Albano ................. 693 Lago di Bolsena ........... 691 Lago di Como ..... 186–195 Lago di Garda ..... 203–211 Lago di Lésina .............. 809 Lago di Pilato ............... 611 Lago di Scanno ............ 716 Lago di Varano ............. 809 Lago di Vico ................. 687 Lago d’Orta .................. 185 Lago Maggiore.... 181–185 Lago Mucrone ............... 86 Lago Trasimeno ............ 537 Laigueglia ..................... 119 Laino Borgo .................. 861 Lake Como .......... 186–195 Lake Garda .......... 203–211 Lake Maggiore .... 181–185 Lake Orta ...................... 185 Lakes region ....... 180–211 Lakes region ................ 142 La Maddalena............... 975 La Mortella.................... 776 Lana .............................. 252 language .......... 1037–1046 language courses ........... 51 La Palud ......................... 95 La Pelosa ...................... 979 L’Aquila ................ 708–711 Larino............................ 727 La Rotonda ................... 323 La Scala, Milan ............. 154 La Spezia ...................... 134 La Thuile ......................... 94 Latina ............................ 698 laundries ......................... 54 Laveno .......................... 185 Lazio .................... 684–703 Le Castella.................... 865 Le Langhe hills ............... 83 Le Murge ...................... 816 Le Roncole ................... 395 Leaning Tower, Pisa...... 462 Lecce ................... 830–834 Lecce ........................... 831 Lecco ............................ 194 Lérici ............................. 136 Lévanto ......................... 131 Levanzo ........................ 938 Lido di Metaponto ........ 850 Liguria .................... 97–138 Liguria .................. 100–101 Limone sul Garda ......... 207

Lingua ........................... 898 Lípari ............................. 895 Livorno, ferries from ..... 473 Locorotondo ................. 820 Locri.............................. 867 Lombards ..................... 991 Lombardy and the Lakes ........................... 139–212 Lombardy and the Lakes ................................... 142 Lóppia .......................... 192 Loreto ........................... 602 Loreto Aprutino ............ 722 Lorica............................ 860 Lotto, Lorenzo ............ 1008 Lucca ................... 466–471 Lucca ........................... 467 Lucera........................... 801 Luino ............................. 184

I NDE X

hill-towns, origins of ... 1014 history ................ 987–1002 Hofer, Andreas .............. 252 horse riding .................... 49 hostels ............................ 37 hotels .............................. 36

L

Maccagno..................... 184 Macerata ...................... 604 Maddalena Islands ....... 975 Madonna di Campiglio ................................... 228 Mafia, the...................... 874 Magna Graecia ............. 987 mail ................................. 55 Majella National Park ................................... 715 Malcesine ..................... 209 Malfa ............................. 899 Manarola....................... 133 Manfredonia ................. 803 Mani Pulite.................. 1000 Mannerism .................. 1008 Mantua (Mantova) ........................... 173–179 Mantua ......................... 174 maps............................... 55 Maranello ...................... 388 Maratea ........................ 850 Marche, Le .......... 579–616 Marche, Le ................... 582 Marciana Marina ........... 479 Maremma, the .............. 480 Maréttimo ..................... 938 Marina d’Ascea ............ 792 Marina di Campo.......... 480 Marina di Velia .............. 792 Marina Romea .............. 408 Marinella ....................... 942 Marinello reserve .......... 891 Marino .......................... 693 Marsala ......................... 940

1057

I NDE X

| 1058

MART, Rovereto ........... 226 Martina Franca ............. 820 Masèr............................ 339 Massa Maríttima ........... 504 Massafra ....................... 824 Matera ................. 845–849 Matera .......................... 845 Matterhorn ...................... 88 Mazara del Vallo ........... 941 Melfi .............................. 844 Menaggio...................... 190 menus ........ 41, 1042–1045 Merano ......................... 250 Messina ........................ 903 Metaponto .................... 849 Mezzano ....................... 229 Michelangelo .............. 1007 MILAN .................. 143–168 Milan..................... 144–145 Milan, central ............... 150 Milan metro .................. 148 accommodation ........149–151 arrival.........................146–147 bars .................................. 164 cafés................................. 163 canals ............................... 159 Castello Sforzesco ........... 154 clubs ................................ 165 Duomo ............................. 152 football ............................. 168 Galleria Vittorio Emmanuele II ...................................... 153 La Scala ........................... 154 Last Supper, The .............. 160 Museo Archeologico ........ 161 opera ........................ 154, 165 Pinacoteca di Brera ......... 156 restaurants ....................... 163 Santa Maria delle Grazie ... 160 shopping ...................166–167 transport........................... 147

Milazzo ......................... 892 Miramare ...................... 357 Modena................ 385–389 Modena ........................ 386 Módica.......................... 925 Modigliani, Amedeo ... 1011 Molfetta ........................ 811 Molveno ........................ 229 Mondello....................... 888 money ............................. 55 Monópoli ...................... 818 Monreale....................... 889 Mont Blanc ..................... 95 Montalcino .................... 513 Monte Amiata ............... 514 Monte Argentario.......... 481 Monte Bérico ................ 322 Monte Bianco ................. 95 Montecassino ............... 696 Monte Circeo ................ 699 Monte Civetta ............... 250

Museo Nazionale di Capodimonte ................ 751 Napoli Sotterranea ........... 746 Palazzo Reale .................. 749 Piazza Garibaldi ............... 744 presepi ............................. 746 Quartieri Spagnoli ............ 749 restaurants ....................... 754 San Gennaro .................... 745 San Gregorio Armeno ...... 746 San Lorenzo Maggiore ..... 746 Santa Chiara .................... 747 Santa Lucia ...................... 749 Spaccanapoli ................... 747 Teatro San Carlo .............. 748 transport........................... 739 Via dei Tribunali ................ 746 Via Toledo......................... 749 Vómero ............................. 753

Monte Cucco ................ 545 Monte Epomeo ............. 778 Monte Faito .................. 764 Montefalco ................... 555 Montefortino ................. 610 Montemonaco .............. 611 Monte Oliveto Maggiore ................................... 506 Monte Ortobene ........... 968 Monte Pasubio ............. 226 Montepulciano .... 507–511 Montepulciano ............. 508 Monterchi ..................... 521 Monte Rosa .................... 87 Monterosso .................. 131 Monte Sant’Angelo....... 805 Montescaglioso ............ 848 Monte Solaro ................ 773 Monte Venere ............... 907 Monti dell’Uccellina ...... 481 Monti Sibillini National Park ........................... 610–612 Monti Sibillini ................ 564 Moro, Aldo .................... 998 Morrovalle ..................... 607 Mórtola Inferiore ........... 123 motorbiking .................... 35 Motta Camastra ........... 909 Mount Etna ................... 908 Mount Vesuvius ............ 761 Mózia ............................ 940 Múggia.......................... 357 Murge, the .................... 816 Mussolini, Benito .......... 997

Naples, Bay of..... 757–768 Napoleon ...................... 994 Narni ............................. 567 ’Ndrangheta, the .......... 843 Neapolis ....................... 920 Nemi ............................. 695 Nettuno ......................... 697 newspapers .................... 44 Ninfa ............................. 698 Noli ............................... 115 Nora .............................. 959 Norcia ........................... 564 Noto .............................. 924 Novara di Sicilia............ 892 Numana ........................ 601 Nuoro ............................ 966 Nus ................................. 88

N

O

NAPLES ............... 734–757 Naples .................. 736–737 Naples, central............. 741

Olbia..................... 971–974 Olbia ............................. 972 Oliena ........................... 968 Oneglia ......................... 119 opening hours ................ 56 Orbetello ....................... 481 Orgósolo ....................... 969 Oristano ........................ 962 Orta San Giulio ............. 185 Ortisei ........................... 244 Ortles mountains .......... 266 Ortygia .......................... 918 Orvieto ................. 571–577 Orvieto ......................... 573 osmizze ......................... 355 osterie ............................. 43 Ostia Antica .................. 681 Ostuni ........................... 828 Otranto ......................... 834 outdoor pursuits ............. 49

accommodation ............... 740 arrival................................ 738 bars .................................. 756 cafés................................. 754 Camorra ........................... 738 camping ........................... 743 Capella Sansevero ........... 747 Castel dell’Ovo................. 749 Castel Nuovo ................... 748 catacombs ....................... 751 centro storico ................... 745 Chiaia ............................... 752 clubs ................................ 756 Duomo ............................. 744 football ............................. 753 Forcella............................. 744 hostels.............................. 743 hotels ............................... 741 information ....................... 738 Museo Archeologico ........ 750

P

public holidays ............... 56 Puglia ................... 795–838 Puglia ................... 798–799 Pula .............................. 959 Punta Marina ................ 408 Punta San Vigilio .......... 211 Pusertal ........................ 244

R

|

Radda in Chianti ........... 458 radio ............................... 45 Ragusa ......................... 925 rail passes ................29, 32 rail travel ...................28, 31 Randazzo...................... 909 Rapallo ......................... 128 Raphael ...................... 1007 Ravello .......................... 787 Ravenna............... 402–408 Ravenna ....................... 404 Realmonte .................... 929 Recanati ....................... 603 refuges............................ 40 refuges, Dolomites ....... 220 Reggio Calabria ........................... 855–857 Reggio Calabria ........... 856 Reggio Emilia ............... 389 Renaissance architecture ................................. 1015 Renaissance art .......... 1046 Rende ........................... 859 restaurants...................... 41 Rezzonico ..................... 191 rifugi................................ 40 Rimini ................... 408–413 Rimini ........................... 409 Rinella ........................... 899 Rio Marina .................... 478 Riomaggiore ................. 133 Riserva Naturale dei Calanchi..................... 723 Riserva Naturale dello Zingaro ...................... 939 Riserva Naturale di Vendicari .................... 923 Risorgimento ................ 995 Riva del Garda.............. 207 Riviera di Levante ......... 123 Riviera di Ponente ........ 115 Rivoli ............................... 76 Rococo ....................... 1010 Rodi Gargánico ............ 809 Rogaro .......................... 190 Roman art ................... 1003 Roman empire .............. 988

I NDE X

package tours ................ 30 Padua ................... 311–318 Padua ........................... 312 Paestum ....................... 789 Palau............................. 975 Pale di San Martino ...... 231 Palermo ............... 874–888 Palermo ................ 876–877 Palestrina ...................... 695 Palinuro ........................ 793 Palio, Siena................... 487 Palladio, Andrea .......... 322, 1017 Pallino National Park .... 861 Panarea ........................ 899 Panevéggio National Park ................................... 230 Pantelleria ..................... 943 Paola ............................ 852 Papasidero ................... 861 Paradiso del Cevedale ................................... 255 Parco Naturale dello Sciliar ................................... 243 Parco Naturale FánesSénnes-Bráies ........... 244 Parco Naturale Panevéggio ................................... 230 Parco Nazionale d’Abruzzo ................................... 717 Parco Nazionale del Gran Sasso ......................... 711 Parco Nazionale della Majella ....................... 715 Parco Nazionale dello Stelvio ........................ 253 Parco Nazionale Pollino ................................... 861 Parco Regionale del Monte Cucco ........................ 545 parking............................ 34 Parma .................. 390–394 Parma ........................... 391 Parmalat ....................... 393 Passignano ................... 538 Passo dello Stelvio ....... 254 Passo di Ball................. 231 Passo di Sella ............... 234 Pavia ............................. 168 Perugia ................ 528–537 Perugia ......................... 531 Pésaro.................. 590–593 Pésaro .......................... 591 Pescallo ........................ 192 Pescara ........................ 721 Pescasséroli ................. 717

Péschici ........................ 808 pharmacies ..................... 54 Phoenicians .................. 987 phones............................ 57 Piano Grande ............... 565 Piazza Armerina............ 932 Piedivalle ...................... 566 Piemonte ............... 63–100 Piemonte and Valle d’Aosta ........................ 64 Pienza ........................... 511 Pieve di Cadore ............ 249 pilgrimages ..................... 46 Pinerolo .......................... 81 Pinzolo .......................... 227 Piombino ...................... 474 Pisa ...................... 459–466 Pisa .............................. 460 Pisano, Nicola ............ 1004 Pitigliano ....................... 515 pizza ............................... 42 pizzica ........................... 836 Pizzo ............................. 852 Po Delta ........................ 402 Po Valley ......................... 83 Poggio .......................... 479 police .............................. 53 Policoro ........................ 850 Polignano a Mare ......... 818 Pollara .......................... 899 Pomonte ....................... 480 Pompeii................ 761–764 Pontecchio Marconi ..... 385 Pontine Islands ............. 702 Pontine Marshes .......... 697 Ponza ........................... 702 Porta Corsini................. 408 Porto Azzurro ............... 478 Porto Cervo .................. 974 Porto Ercole.................. 481 Porto Maurizio .............. 119 Porto Recanati.............. 604 Portocannone ............... 726 Portoferraio................... 476 Portofino ....................... 125 Portonovo ..................... 600 Portovénere .................. 135 Positano ....................... 782 postal services ............... 55 Potenza ........................ 843 Pozzuoli ........................ 757 Praiano ......................... 783 Pratini ........................... 481 Prato ............................. 457 Preci ............................. 566 Predazzo....................... 232 Procchio ....................... 478 Prócida ......................... 778 Prodi, Romano ........... 1000

1059

ROME................... 617–680 Rome and Lazio .......... 621 Rome .................... 628–629 Rome, central .............. 633 Rome centro storico ... 635 Rome trains and metro ................................... 624

I NDE X

| 1060

accommodation ............... 627 Ara Pacis .......................... 649 Arch of Constantine ......... 647 arrival................................ 621 Auditorium................ 664, 679 Aventine Hill ..................... 658 bars .................................. 675 Baths of Caracalla ........... 658 Baths of Diocletian........... 655 cafés................................. 670 camping ........................... 632 Campo de’ Fiori ............... 639 Capitoline Hill ................... 642 Capitoline Museums ........ 643 Castel Sant’Angelo .......... 665 catacombs ....................... 660 Celian Hill ......................... 656 Centrale Montemartini ..... 659 centro storico ................... 634 Circo Massimo ................. 658 classical music ................. 678 clubs ................................ 677 Colosseum ....................... 647 Domus Aurea ................... 653 Esquiline Hill..................... 652 film ................................... 679 Forum, Roman ..........645–647 Forums, Imperial .............. 645 Galleria Borghese............. 663 Galleria Colonna .............. 650 Galleria Doria Pamphili .... 634 Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna ....................... 664 Galleria Nazionale di Palazzo Corsini........................... 662 gay and lesbian bars........ 677 Gesù ................................. 639 Ghetto .............................. 641 history .......................622–623 hostels.............................. 632 hotels ............................... 630 information ....................... 627 Isola Tiberina .................... 641 Janiculum Hill ................... 662 Keats-Shelley House ....... 648 Largo di Torre Argentina ... 639 MAXXI .............................. 664 Monti ................................ 652 Museo Barracco .............. 637 Museo delle Cere ............. 650 Museo delle Terme di Diocleziano ................... 655 Museo di Roma................ 637 Museo Nazionale Etrusco ...................................... 664 nightlife............................. 676 Palatine Hill ...................... 646 Palazzo Altemps .............. 638 Palazzo Barberini ............. 651 Palazzo Farnese............... 640

Palazzo Massimo ............. 655 Pantheon .......................... 636 Piazza Barberini ............... 650 Piazza Bocca della Verità ... 644 Piazza Campidoglio ......... 643 Piazza Navona ................. 637 Piazza Pasquino............... 638 Piazza del Popolo ............ 649 Piazza della Repubblica... 654 Piazza di Spagna ............. 648 Piazza San Pietro ............. 665 Piazza Venezia ................. 641 Porta Portese flea market ...................................... 661 Protestant Cemetery ........ 659 Quirinale ........................... 650 Raphael Rooms ............... 668 restaurants ....................... 671 Saint Peter’s ..................... 666 Sant’Agostino................... 638 San Carlo alle Quattro Fontane......................... 651 Santa Cecilia in Trastevere ...................................... 661 San Clemente .................. 657 San Giovanni e Paolo ...... 656 San Giovanni in Laterano ... 657 Sant’Ignazio ..................... 634 Sant’Ivo ............................ 636 San Lorenzo fuori le Mura ...................................... 656 San Luigi dei Francesi ..... 637 Santa Maria degli Angeli... 654 Santa Maria in Aracoeli .... 642 Santa Maria in Trastevere... 662 Santa Maria Maggiore...... 653 Santa Maria sopra Minerva ...................................... 636 San Paolo fuori le Mura ... 660 San Pietro in Carcere ....... 644 San Pietro in Vincoli ......... 653 Santa Prassede ................ 654 Scala Santa ...................... 657 Sistine Chapel .................. 668 Spanish Steps .................. 648 Synagogue ....................... 641 Tarpeian Rock .................. 644 Termini .............................. 656 Testaccio .......................... 658 Trajan’s Markets ............... 645 transport........................... 625 Trastevere......................... 661 Trevi Fountain ................... 650 Tridente ............................ 647 Vatican City ...............665–670 Vatican Museums............. 666 Via del Corso.................... 648 Via Giulia .......................... 640 Via Veneto ........................ 651 Villa Borghese .................. 663 Villa Farnesina .................. 662 Villa Giulia......................... 664 Vittoriano .......................... 642

Rosengarten ................. 233 Rossano ....................... 863 Rupingrande ................. 356 Ruvo di Puglia .............. 817

S Sa Sartiglia, Oristano ... 963 Sabaudia ...................... 698 Sacra di San Michele ..... 80 Sacro Monte ................... 89 Saepinum ..................... 728 safety .............................. 52 sagre ............................... 46 sailing ............................. 49 St Catherine of Siena ... 493 St Francis of Assisi....... 550 St Valentine .................. 566 Salerno ......................... 789 Salina ............................ 897 Salò .............................. 204 Saltria ........................... 243 Saluzzo ........................... 82 Sampieri ....................... 923 Sant’Ambrogio ............... 80 Sant’Andrea .................. 480 Sant’Angelo .................. 777 Sant’Antíoco ................. 959 Sant’Apollinare in Classe ................................... 408 San Benedetto del Tronto ................................... 615 San Cassiano ............... 235 Santa Caterina del Sasso ................................... 182 San Domenico .............. 456 San Domino .................. 810 San Felice Circeo ......... 699 San Fruttuoso ............... 126 San Galgano ................. 505 Santa Gertrude ............. 253 San Gimignano ... 496–500 San Gimignano ............ 497 San Ginesio .................. 608 San Giovanni Rotondo ................................... 806 San Leo ........................ 589 San Leonardo ............... 252 San Leone .................... 929 Santa Margherita Ligure ................................... 127 Santa Maria a Piè di Chienti ....................... 607 Santa Maria di Castellabate............... 792 Santa Maria di Leuca ... 835 Santa Marina di Salina ................................... 898 San Marino ................... 413 San Martino di Castrozza ................................... 230 San Martino plateau ..... 231 San Menaio .................. 809 San Michele .................. 206

T Taggia ........................... 122 Taormina .............. 905–907 tarantism....................... 836 Táranto................. 821–824 Táranto ......................... 822 Tarot Garden ................. 482 Tarquinia ....................... 686 Tavoliere ....................... 798 teaching English ............. 51 telephones ...................... 57 temperatures .................. 14 Téramo .......................... 719 Térmoli .......................... 724 Terni .............................. 566 Terracina ....................... 699 Tésero ........................... 232 Tharros ......................... 964

Tiepolo, Giambattista ... 1010 time zone ........................ 57 Tintoretto .................... 1008 Tiscali ........................... 969 Titian ...................249, 1008 Tivoli ............................. 682 Todi ............................... 569 Toirano .......................... 118 Tolentino ....................... 607 Tonara ........................... 970 Torbole .......................... 209 Torre a Mare ................. 817 Torrechiara .................... 395 Torre del Vajolet ............ 234 Torre Guaceto ............... 827 Torri del Benaco ........... 210 Tortolì ............................ 971 tourist offices .................. 57 Trafoi ............................. 255 trains .........................28, 31 Trani .............................. 810 Trápani .......................... 933 travel agents ................... 29 Tremezzo ...................... 189 Trémiti Islands .............. 809 Trentino-Alto Adige ........................... 213–256 Trentino-Alto Adige ........................... 216–217 Trento ................... 221–225 Trento ........................... 222 Trevi .............................. 556 Treviso ................. 333–335 Trieste .................. 346–354 Trieste........................... 348 Triora............................. 122 Triponzo ........................ 567 Troia .............................. 802 Tropea........................... 853 trulli ............................... 819 Turin ......................... 65–80 Turin ......................... 68–69 Turin Shroud ................... 73 Tuscany ............... 415–524 Tuscany ........................ 418 TV ................................... 45 Tyche ............................ 920 Tyndaris ........................ 891 Tyrol ..................... 235–256

|

Dolomites ......................... 221 Piemonte ............................ 81

slow food ... see Italian food and wine colour section smoking .......................... 41 snowboarding ................. 49 soccer .... 48, Italian football colour section Solda ............................ 255 Solfatara ....................... 758 Sorrento............... 764–768 Sorrento ....................... 765 Southern Cape ............. 835 Soverato ....................... 866 Spello ........................... 552 Sperlonga ..................... 700 Spoleto ................ 557–563 Spoleto ......................... 559 sports ............................. 48 Squillace ....................... 866 Stazzona ....................... 191 Stelvio National Park .... 253 Stelvio pass .................. 254 Sterzing ........................ 247 Stilfer National Park...... 266 Stintino ......................... 979 Strada delle Vette ......... 860 Strada del Vino, Bolzano ................................... 242 Strada Vicentina ........... 356 Stresa ........................... 181 Strómboli ...................... 900 studying in Italy .............. 51 Stupinigi Palace.............. 76 Su Nuraxi ...................... 961 Subiaco ........................ 695 Sulmona ....................... 714 Susa ............................... 80 Sybaris.......................... 862

I NDE X

San Michele all’Adige ................................... 226 San Nicola .................... 810 San Pietro, Panarea...... 900 San Pietro, Sardinia...... 961 San Quírico d’Orcia ...... 512 San Remo ............ 119–122 Santa Severina ............. 865 San Severino Marche ... 607 Santa Teresa di Gallura ................................... 976 Santa Teresa di Riva..... 905 Santo Stefano............... 857 San Vito lo Capo .......... 939 Santuario di Tindari ...... 891 Sankt Gertraud ............. 253 Sankt Leonhard ............ 252 Sansepolcro ................. 521 Santuario d’Oropa .......... 86 Sardagna ...................... 226 Sardinia................ 947–984 Sardinia ........................ 950 Sarnano ........................ 609 Sássari ................. 977–979 Sássari ......................... 977 Sassocorvaro................ 589 Sauze d’Oulx .................. 81 Savoca.......................... 905 Savona ......................... 115 Scaglieri ........................ 478 Scanno ......................... 716 Scheggino .................... 567 Sciacca ......................... 942 Sciliar National Park ..... 243 Scilla ............................. 855 Scopello ....................... 939 Segesta ........................ 937 self-catering.................... 39 Selinunte....................... 941 Sella mountain group ................................... 234 Sella Ronda .................. 244 Sermoneta .................... 698 Sestri Levante............... 129 Sestriere ......................... 81 shopping......................... 49 Síbari ............................ 862 Sicily..................... 869–946 Sicily ............................. 873 Siena .................... 482–496 Siena, central ....... 484–485 Sila Grande ................... 859 Silandro ........................ 255 Siracusa............... 915–922 Siracusa ....................... 917 Sirmione ....................... 203 Sirolo ............................ 601 skiing .............................. 49

U Udine.................... 363–366 Udine ............................ 364 Ulental .......................... 266 Umbria ................. 526–578 Umbria ......................... 528

1061

Urbino .................. 581–588 Urbino .......................... 584 Urbisaglia...................... 608 Ururi .............................. 726 Usseaux.......................... 81 Ústica ........................... 889

V

I NDE X

|

Valle d’Aosta ........... 61–96 Valle d’Aosta .................. 64 Valle Argentina .............. 122 Val di Cogne ................... 92 Val Gardena .................. 244 Val Genova ................... 227 Valle d’Itria .................... 821 Val Martello ................... 255 Valle Po........................... 83 Val Pusteria................... 246 Val di Rhêmes ................ 94 Val Rosandra ................ 356 Val Sarentino ................ 241 Valle dei Templi............. 928 Val d’Ultimo .................. 266 Val Venosta ................... 254 Valchiavenna ................ 194 Valdichiana ................... 521 Valgrisenche ................... 98 Valnerina ....................... 564 Valnontey ........................ 93 Valsavarenche ................ 93 Valsesia........................... 87 Valsorda ........................ 545 Valtournenche................. 88 Varenna......................... 193 Vasari, Giorgio ............ 1009 Vasto............................. 723 Vatican City ......... 665–670 vegetarian food .............. 42 Veneto, the .......... 309–341 Veneto, the ................... 260 VENICE ................ 257–342 Venice........................... 262 Venice, San Marco ........................... 270–271 Venice, Canal Grande ................................... 294 accommodation ........268–274 arrival................................ 263 Arsenale ........................... 293 B&Bs ................................ 273 bars .................................. 305

1062

Basilica di San Marco ...... 275 Biennale ........................... 308 Burano.............................. 298 Ca’ d’Oro ......................... 289 cafés................................. 301 Campanile ........................ 278 camping ........................... 273 Canal Grande ................... 294 Cannaregio ....................... 288 Carnevale ......................... 307 Castello ............................ 290 Dorsoduro ........................ 281 festivals ............................ 307 Film Festival ..................... 307 flooding ............................ 285 Frari .................................. 286 Galleria dell’Accademia ... 281 Ghetto .............................. 289 Giudecca, La .................... 299 gondolas .......................... 267 Guggenheim collection .... 283 history .............................. 261 hostels.............................. 273 hotels ............................... 268 information ....................... 264 La Fenice ......................... 280 Lido .................................. 300 Madonna dell’Orto ........... 289 Miracoli............................. 290 Murano ............................. 297 Museo Correr ................... 279 Museo del Vetro ............... 297 Museo Fortuny ................. 280 Museo Storico Navale...... 293 music................................ 306 Palazzo Ducale ................ 277 Piazzetta........................... 279 Procuratie ......................... 279 restaurants ....................... 302 Rialto bridge..................... 285 St. Mark’s Square ............ 275 Salute ............................... 283 Sant’Elena ........................ 296 San Giorgio Maggiore ...... 299 Santi Giovanni e Paolo .... 291 San Lazzaro degli Armeni ...................................... 300 San Marco........................ 275 Santa Maria Formosa ...... 291 San Michele ..................... 296 San Pantaleone ................ 284 San Pietro di Castello ...... 296 San Polo........................... 285 San Zaccaria .................... 292 Scuola di San Giorgio degli Schiavoni ...................... 292 Scuola di San Rocco ....... 287 Torcello ............................. 298 Torre dell’Orologio ............ 278 traghetti ............................ 267

transport........................... 265 water taxis........................ 267 water-buses ..................... 266

Venosa .......................... 844 Ventimiglia .................... 122 Ventotene ..................... 703 Verbania........................ 183 Vernazza ....................... 132 Verona .................. 324–333 Verona .......................... 325 Vesuvius ....................... 761 Viareggio....................... 472 Vicenza ................ 319–324 Vicenza......................... 319 vie ferrate ...................... 220 Viel del Pan................... 235 Vieste ............................ 806 Vigo di Fassa ................ 233 Villa Adriana .................. 683 Villa Barbaro ................. 339 Villa Fóscari .................. 310 Villa Pisani .................... 311 villa rental ....................... 39 Villa Romana del Casale ................................... 932 Villa Rotonda ................ 323 Villa San Giovanni......... 897 Villa Valmarana ............. 323 Vinschgau ..................... 254 Vipiteno......................... 247 visas ............................... 53 Viterbo .......................... 686 Vittorio Emanuele I ....... 995 Vittorio Veneto .............. 340 Volterra ......................... 501 Vulcano ......................... 894

W walking ...............see hiking watersports.............49, 209 wine ..... 44, Italian food and wine colour section wine road, Bolzano....... 242 wine tasting, Montepulciano ........... 510 working in Italy ............... 51

Y youth hostels .................. 37

Map symbols

Tourist ofﬁce

Chapter division boundary

Phone ofﬁce

Provincial boundary

Bus stop

Motorway

Place of interest

Major road

Ruin

Minor road

Castle

Steps

Vineyard

Pedestrianized street

Post ofﬁce

Gate

Airport

Railway line

Hospital

Funicular railway

Parking

Metro line and station

Arch

Cable car

Fountain

Path

Synagogue

River

Swimming pool

Canal route

Monastery

Ferry route

Abbey

Wall

Campsite

Bridge

Church (regional maps)

Rocks

Church (town maps)

Mountain range

Building

Gorge/cutting

Stadium

Peak

Christian cemetery

Cave

Park

Internet

Beach

|

International boundary

MAP SY MBOL S

maps are listed in the full index using coloured text

1063

About the authors Ros Belford co-wrote the ﬁrst edition of the guide and spends as much time as possible on the Aeolian Island of Salina with her two daughters.

Martin Dunford co-wrote the ﬁrst edition of the guide and is the author of Rough Guides to Rome, Naples, Amsterdam, Brussels and New York.

Celia Woolfrey co-wrote the ﬁrst edition of the guide and has enjoyed many journeys around Italy since. Based in London, she is a journalist and web consultant and writes for the national press. Jonathan Buckley has written about Venice, the Veneto, Florence and Tuscany for various Rough Guides, and has published seven novels.

Lucy Ratcliffe has been writing about the Lakes region of Northern Italy for over 10 years and is the author of several guides on the area. She now shares her time between Bergamo and Barcelona, where she lives with her young family.

Author picks Throughout this book, we’ve used the Rough Guides icon to highlight establishments our authors particularly recommend – a perfectly sited hotel, an atmospheric café, a special restaurant. The same icon is also used to ﬂag up book recommendations in the Contexts section. Please send us your own nominations, which our authors will be happy to check out for future editions.

Accommodation price codes All the accommodation listed in this book has been categorized according to the following price codes. For full details, see p.36. 1 €60 and under 4 €121–150 7 €251–300 2 €61–90 5 €151–200 8 €301–400 3 €91–120 6 €201–250 9 €401 and over Front cover image: Barrels of freshly harvested grapes © Jill Mead/ Axiom Back cover images: Staircase, Vatican Museums, Rome © Natascha Sturny/Rough Guides; Pasta with pesto © PhotoCuisine/Corbis Right: Gondola ﬁgurine, Venice © Martin Richardson/Rough Guides