Scale Aviation Modeller International Vol.21 Iss. 11

M D S its RA CA ub W L ish IN E i A GS 6M -2

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THE No.1 MODELLING MAGAZINE

Trumpeter’s 1/48th

F-100D Super Sabre

100 FEATURE PACKED PAGES!

LIGHTS,

CAMERA,

ACTION

ZERO! Tamiya’s 1/32nd Light and Sound A6M-5

SAMPUBLICATIONS.COM Vol 21 Iss 11 November 2015 £4.50 Printed in UK

Zvezda 1/144th

Fly Models 1/48th

Revell’s 1/72nd

Ilyushin Il-62M

Jet Provost T.4

Halifax Mk II

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CONTENTS

Scale Aviation Modeller International NOVEMBER 2015 • VOLUME 21 • ISSUE 11

Contents IN THIS ISSUE

MODELLERS PORTFOLIO

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News

1046

Czech Out

1/72nd Scale Drawings and Colour Artwork by Chris Sandham-Bailey/Inkworm

Creative Times First Look Accessories Decals Show Reports Reviews Books & Media Back Page

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1070

LIGHTS, CAMERA, ACTION, ZERO!

BRISTOL’S BULLET

JET PROVOST T.4

Building Special Hobby 1/32 Bristol M.1C by Phillip D.C Ware

Fly Models 1/48 Jet Provost T.4 Review by Jonathan Davies

THE HUN OVER VIETNAM

David Francis builds Tamiya’s 1/32 Light and Sound A6M-5

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Mitsubishi A6M2

NOVEMBER 2015 •

SCALE AVIATION MODELLER INTERNATIONAL

Century Series 1/48 Trumpeter F-100D by Steven J. Corvi

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EDITORIAL y the time you read this Telford will be just around the corner. Over the last 30 years that I have attended this event it has slowly evolved to be without question the best model show in the world. The 120 plus traders from all corners of the globe who will have every modelling item imaginable, and the few that have never been seen before, together with the 220+ clubs, SIGs and National Organisations, make this show so different from those in other parts of the world that I have visited. But ask me what is the most impressive thing about Scale ModelWorld and I would have to say that it is the fact that the whole event is organised by volunteers from the IPMS, and many members give up a lot of their time prior to the show and most of the show weekend to put on this event for you and me to enjoy. So if you see someone in a yellow shirt, instead of telling them how to make the show better

B

please thank them for making the show at all, and maybe even ask them what you can do to help. Scale ModelWorld is also an event when many companies will be launching their new products and at SAM Publications we will be no different with our new Datafile on the Grumman Hellcat taking pride of place on the SAM stand in Hall 1. Also this is also a chance for you to meet the SAM Publications team that bring you your magazine each month, and as this my first Telford as Editor I would welcome any feedback on the changes to the contents we have made over the last 10 months, and also any suggestions as to what you would like to see in the future. For those not fortunate enough to get to the show we will be covering the show in full, and I am sure many of you will be following our coverage of the show's news on the Scale Aviation

Modeller Facebook page over the weekend of the 7th and 8th of November. Until then, put your feet up and enjoy some downtime with your magazine’s latest issue.

David Francis

Editor [email protected]

In last month's issue we incorrectly referred to the Ultimate modelling washes as being produced by Deluxe Models - I apologise to both parties for this error. In the Mosquito profiles last month we featured a Czech Mosquito and we have now received the following information from Jan Jadera. “I wish to correct the information supplied on the Czech Mosquito: 311 Squadron never operated the Mosquito during the war and returned to Czechoslovakia with

Liberators in 1945. The Mosquitos were delivered post war and in my opinion would not have overpainted RAF roundels as illustrated. The CzAF Mosquito FB Mk VIs were delivered in either Dark Green/Ocean Grey/Medium Sea Grey, or Dark Green/Medium Sea Grey, or High Speed Silver, and some of them were later overpainted Grey overall during overhauls in Czechoslovakia. At least some examples were fitted with exGerman radios, guns, bomb racks and bombs. The CzAF also operated two Mosquito T Mk III trainers which were delivered in overall Trainer Yellow”.

Correction and Amendments

Subscribe to Scale Aviation Modeller see page 1044

1076

1080

1084

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WARSAW UPRISING

LUFT 46 - THE ROCKET GLIDER

ILYUSHIN IL-62M

MISTEL 1 – JU 88A-4 + BF 109F-4

Building a 1586th Flight Handley Page Halifax Mk II series 1A by Wojciech Butrycz

Building Brenguns BV.40R in 1/72 Scale by Adam Rehorn

Zvezda 1/144 Ilyushin Il-62M by Huw Morgan

Italeri 1/72 Mistel 1 by Dick Clark

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NEWS

in association with

www.spruebrothers.com

November News News and forthcoming products from around the world.

Airfix

Kitty Hawk Due soon is the new 1/32 scale Kingfisher; photographs of the built-up model show both colourful pre-war and World War 2 schemes. The new photographs show that you will be able to build both a wheeled or floatplane version. Coming along next will be the T-28 Trojan and this will be eagerly awaited by many, considering its long service with the USN as well as 25 other countries around the world,

Latest news from Airfix is that the long expected Car Door Typhoon in 1/24 scale will be released in 2016. In 1/48 scale we will also get a Curtis P-40B, no doubt in a Flying Tigers scheme, as well as the already announced Meteor F.8. Shots of the F.8 sprues show that both large and small bore engine intakes will be supplied on the runners. Finally in 1/72 we will have another version of the truly gorgeous Nakajimi Kate, this time the early B5N1.

This Month in Model Aircraft Blackbird - Lockheed’s

HobbyBoss HobbyBoss have announced they will be releasing yet another 1/48 Me 262 variant, this time the glass-nosed Pathfinder. This will require new fuselage halves and I am interested to see how they will hide the metal nose weight on this version.

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Supersonic Spy Habu – Andy Renshaw’ SR-71 Combat Edge – Fighting Colours ‘Flash Metal’ the iconic English Electric Lightning, with a full model build from James Dickerson Cold War Sentinel – Neil Atterbury provides some atmospheric Lightning photography Orange Thunder – Dick Clarks colourful version of the F-84F COMBAT ZONE - Frontline Rhiendalen Anthony Tucker-Jones takes a close look at NATO’s air defences at the height of the Cold War

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Charcoal Lizard Hog - Chris McDowell gets to grips with Italeri’s 1:48 A-10 East German Border Guard David Lengyel shares his winning build from the Model Aircraft Facebook Challenge with this 1:72 Eduard MiG-15 ProfiPack MODEL AIRCRAFT EXTRA – ‘Mirage 2000N’ - Scale Plans and Background plus a Walk Around, and a full model build from James Ashton Semper Fi Cobra - Mario Serelle adds some Vietnam plumage to the 1:72 AZ Model AH1G Kriegsmarine Wings - Bob Cantrell builds the 1:32 Revell Arado Ar 196

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NEWS

Subscribers’ October prize draw winners •

Mr Rouse, UK Mr Reeves, UK Mr Ioannis, Greece • •

Entry to the monthly prize draw is FREE to all subscribers

Wingnut Wings

Attack Models

The previously announced 1/32 scale Bristol F.2B Fighter in its postwar guise with modifications to make it suitable for use in hotter climates is now available. Markings include RAF versions from the Middle East and India as

The largest Attack model kit to date and a very significant one for US Navy modellers will be a 1/48 scale Grumman F2F-1. This was the first navy fighter from Grumman so the start of a long and distinguished lineage that sadly ended with the F-14 Tomcat. This is a multi-media kit with many parts being supplied in resin, while etched brass supplies the details. The decals supply markings for six US Navy and Marine aircraft from the colourful yellow wings period.

well as an example from the Irish and New Zealand Air Forces. I am fully expecting we will see the post-war version of the D.H.9a to be one of Wingnut's pre-Xmas release announcements.

Fisher Models Now their stunning 1/24 scale Bugatti racer is available Fisher Model and Pattern have returned to the HK Models Meteor with a number of new upgrade sets. We start with the revised Meteor F.8 Conversion, which also includes an alternative Photoreconnaissance nose perfect for the recent Zotz decal sheet. Other new sets include one that supplies the underwing fuel tanks and large belly tank, as well as a number of sets to provide the underwing rocket armament including both styles of rails used by the Meteor.

AGM Avante Garde Models At Eday we saw the runners from the new 1/48 MiG-31 Foxhound and this shows a large amount of slide mould usage especially on the one-piece forward fuselage and the amazing single-piece missiles. This kit will be hitting the model shop shelves in November. Also revealed is their next subject, an all-new tooled 1/48 Scale Mil Mi-17 for release in 2016, which will

be available in two versions, the basic version which is designed to be displayed closed up, and a fully detailed version with complete interior and engine bay for those who like to open all the panels and doors.

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NEWS

in association with

www.cmkkits.com

Czech Out Our monthly look at News from the Czech Republic by Tim Upson-Smith

A

s I write this, Eday was last weekend and if the reports are anything to go by it was a good one! And our Editor did pretty well with my shopping list, but one of the new kits on my list from Special Hobby had already sold out! Several new kits were announced or launched at this year's show and most are featured here, If your company or and hopefully we will be product is not able to bring you some of featured and you the ones that were sold would like it to be, out as and when we please contact us at receive them! the editorial email address.

AZ Model New from AZ this month we have two boxings of the Vultee Vengeance in 1/48 scale, the Mk IV in British markings and the A-35B in French markings. In 1/72 scale we have three boxings of the Klem Kl 35B/D in German markings, Luftwaffe markings and ‘foreign users’ markings.

AML This company is more known for its decals and paint masks, and a look at their webpage www.eshop.aml.cz will reveal many useful sets. Also currently listed is an La-5 set in 1/72 scale, which contains the plastic for three kits, with resin and photoetch extras. No decals are included but there are plenty of aftermarket sets out there…

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HpH Models Well the 1/48 scale Valkyrie made its debut at Eday and it is big! Also new this month is the news that included as a bonus in the 1/32 scale Macchi M.5, Letov S.1, S.16 and S.328, will be a carved wooden propeller.

Eduard Well, the big news from Eduard was the Eday kit, a brand new 1/144 scale Avia B.534 IV Series Zurich Racer, I had daydreamed that they might scale the 1/72 version down, but did not dare to hope too much! The great thing is that as well as the racer version, Eduard had on display CAD drawings of future 1/144 Avias, including the Series I, Series II, Series III, Series III with tear drop canopy, Series IV and even the cannon armed BK534! The little Avia looks like a gem, the strut and wing attachment points look even better than its bigger brother in 1/72 scale. Also released at Eday was the Fw 190 in 1/72, another kit which sold out very quickly. Next month we see another Avia B.534

SCALE AVIATION MODELLER INTERNATIONAL

released, this time the IV Series in 1/72 scale which will be released in the ProfiPACK line. A reboxing of the Roden 1/48 Gloster Gladiator with extras will be a limited-edition addition to the Eduard range. Next month will also see the return of the 1/48 scale D.H.2, also in a ProfiPACK edition. Finally to round off the November releases we have the new MiG15UTI released as a weekend edition. As ever, to keep up to date with all of the accessories released by Eduard visit their webpage at www.Eduard.com

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CZECH OUT

Brengun/Hauler

Fly

As expected the production version of the Letov S.16 was put on general release at Eday; the plastic in this kit is the same the earlier release, which means that you do have to modify the lower wings for the wing root cut-out or the production model. The surprise release from Brengun for Eday though was a brand new 1/72 scale Zlin Z-50 LS, an aerobatic plane from the early 1980s. We

The brand new 1/32 scale Wessex was on show at Eday but Fly’s stand was so popular that the Editor could not get close enough to get any decent shots! I hope to bring you further news on this one once we have had a chance to have a good look at the plastic for ourselves! In the meantime included are some photographs supplied Fly. The Wessex will be available from the Fly E-Shop by the time you read this. Fly have also released a Messerschmitt Bf 108B/D Taifun, a dual boxing which has 16 rather interesting looking markings options. Also now available is the French post-war version of the Bf 108, the Nord 1000, 1001,1002 Pingouin.

will bring you a full preview on this kit next month, suffice to say that the plastic looks good, as does the small sheet of photo-etch, the optional resin wheels, very clear canopy and decal sheet. No masks are supplied for the quite complex colour scheme but the three-view plan on the instruction sheet is to scale, something other manufacturers should take note off! Also new in 1/144 scale is the tiny Avrocar flying saucer in 'what if?' markings with armament. We believe that that a Bachem Natter will be released in 1/144 scale shortly too, we will keep you posted. www.hauler.cz

Special Hobby/CMK/Planet Models The Letov Š.328 in 1/72 was on my shopping list but sold out before the editor could get one, so that bodes well for the popularity of the kit! After last month's bumper crop of releases we have no new full kits this month from Special Hobby, although a look at their website will reveal a number of resin accessory sets for the Airfix 1/48 scale Gnat. The big news in all senses of the word is that the 1/32 scale Tempest is getting nearer, with the toolings almost complete and the clear parts have already been test shot, one to look out for in the coming months. Also on approach from Special Hobby is a 1/32

Kovozavody Prostejov (KP) scale Bloch MB.152C1 (Early Version), and a reissue of the 1/72 scale Sea Harrier FA.2 and the 1/48 scale Ro.43 in Second World War colours.

Valom

Plus Model

Three new 1/144 scale World War One kits are listed as coming soon from Valom. These are the Pfalz D.III, the Sopwith Camel and a Bristol F.2B Fighter. In 1/72 scale we can look forward to the release of 4 versions of the F-101 Voodoo, the futuristic looking Heinkel He 119 and a Fokker T.5

This company does not appear in these pages very often as they are known more for their military diorama accessories, but new for Eday they had a 1/35 scale Fordson N tractor. These were a very common sight on Second World War RAF airfields where they were used for towing and moving pretty much anything and everything! Whilst the scale is more in line with military vehicles, I am sure you may be able to get away with posing next to a 1/32 scale aircraft? And of course it will be perfect for the new Bronco Horsa.

The La-5FNs in 1/72 should be hitting the model shop shelves soon after selling out on the first day at E Day. But we did get a surprise with the announcement from KP of a Spitfire Mk IX, with markings for the Czech Spitfires on their return to Prague at the end of the Second World War. I am assuming that the plastic in this kit will be the AZ Model Spitfire Mk IX?

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Sponsored by Creative Models www.creativemodels.co.uk

PREVIEWS

Creative Times A Selection of new releases now available from Creative Models EDUARD

REVELL

Handley Page Spitfire Mk.IX Halifax B.III Nasi se Vraceji (Quatro Combi)

EDUARD

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Mirage III C Weekend Edition

Spitfire Mk.XVI Bubbletop

This boxing includes 4 models

KIT NO RV04936

STATUS: Revised Tool

REVELL

PRICE: £15.99 DECAL OPTIONS: 8 STATUS: New Decals

Tornado Tigermeet 2014

EDUARD

Fw-190A-8

SCALE 1/32

SCALE 1/72

KIT NO: RV0293

KIT NO: EDK70111

INFO

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KIT NO: EDK4432

PRICE: £39.99 DECAL OPTIONS: 1

PRICE: £12.99 DECAL OPTIONS: 8 STATUS: New Decals

STATUS: New Decals

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Open Monday-Saturday 11 Pydar Mews, Truro TR1 2UX and at shows throughout the South West

01872 273582 www.t7models.com

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SCALE AVIATION MODELLER INTERNATIONAL

SCALE: 148

SCALE 1/48

KIT NO: EDK8496

KIT NO: EDK8285

PRICE: £17.99 DECAL OPTIONS: 2 STATUS: New Decals

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SCALE 1/144

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PRICE: £26.99

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INFO

SCALE 1/72

PRICE: £25.99 DECAL OPTIONS: 5 STATUS: Revised Tool

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One-stop shopping for modellers Order online at www.hannants.co.uk

Kits of the Month

No.1 for Mail Order

Freedom Models FD18002 1:48 Northrop F-20A Tiger Shark ...£34.99 FLY Models YLF32010 1:32 Westland Wessex HC.2 .................£79.99 FLY Models YLF32011 1:32 Westland Wessex HU.5 .................£79.99 Kitty Hawk Model KH32013 1:32 Bell P-39Q Airacobra ...........£53.99 Pilot Replicas PR48A001 1:48 SAAB J-21A3 ..........................£39.99

We stock the largest ranges of plastic, resin and vacform kits, accessories and conversions, photo-etch sets, paints, airbrushes, tools ands books. Everything under one roof from Academy to Zvezda. We specialise in decals and stock ALL available sheets from just about every manufacturer in existence. We carry over 50,000 items from all over the world.

UK Distributors for MPM, Eduard, IBG, Bronco, Kittyhawk, Kinetic and many more. If it’s advertised or reviewed in this magazine try us first. We probably have it in stock now. Mail Order: (all major credit cards accepted)

Harbour Road, Oulton Broad, Lowestoft, Suffolk NR32 3LZ England UK local rate number: 0845 130 72 48 Tel: 01502 517444 (8 lines), Fax: 01502 500521

Hannants London: Unit 2, Hurricane Industrial Estate, Grahame Park Way, Colindale, London NW9 5NQ Next to the RAF Museum, Hendon Tel: 020 8205 6697 Email: [email protected] www.hannants.co.uk

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FIRST LOOK

MARK I MODELS 1/72

Bristol Beaufighter Mk IC / Mk VI By Tim Upson-Smith he Bristol Beaufighter is now available for the first time in 1/144 scale and it has certainly been worth the wait. Packed into the end-opening box which has a colour illustration of the type on the front and colour side-views of the markings options on the reverse, inside are two sprues of grey plastic, a clear sprue and a small but complete decal sheet and of course the instructions. Spread over the two grey runners are 52 parts, the only difference between this and more mainstream kits being the lack of locating pins on the fuselage. The panel lines are restrained and the detail more than adequate for a model in this scale. A clever idea is that the wing tips are moulded in clear plastic so that the navigation lights can be represented perfectly despite the small scale, a thoughtful touch. The canopy is, for the scale, thin and clear with the panel lines clearly marked. One thing that really stands out on this kit is the truly exquisite moulding of the porcupine exhaust pipes. The decal sheets are printed in register and the colours look good and there is minimal carrier film. Initially the 1/144 Beaufighter has been released in three versions, and we have been supplied with the Mk IC and the Mk VI for review; a night fighter version is also available: • MKM14434 Bristol Beaufighter Mk IF ‘Night Fighter’

T

•

MKM14435 Bristol Beaufighter Mk IC ‘Coastal Patrol’ • MKM14436 Bristol Beaufighter Mk VIF/C ‘Formidable Fighter’. I took the kit to my local model club meeting where it was looked over and one particular member known for his medal-winning small scale

I am really looking forward to seeing if “the kit builds up as good as it looks in the box ”

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SCALE AVIATION MODELLER INTERNATIONAL

model aircraft declared that when he got home he would be ordering at least 2 from Hannants! I am really looking forward to seeing if the kit builds up as good as it looks in the box, if it does fans of this smaller scale are really in for a treat. Our thanks to Mark I Models for supplying the review kits.

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8 Types Lewis Guns

Salmson Late 2A2

h c t s a l e P d s o a m G Scale 1/48 Spandau Early 08

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Parabellum 14

Parabellum 14/17

Spandau 08/15

Visit us at Telford International Center 7th and 8th November 2015 Copyright © 2015 GasPatchModels All rights reserved

7 Types Metal Turnbuckles

Salmson Mid 2A2

Vickers K

Scale 1/48

Also available in Scale 1/35

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ACCESSORIES

Quickboost by Aires

PJ Production

This month most of the upgrades from Quickboost are concentrating on newer kits like the Airfix Defiant and HobbyBoss Black Widow. Like all Quickboost sets you do not get any colour guides or instructions, but to be honest in most cases these are not really needed as these sets are so simple it is obvious where they are designed to go.

Three more 1/72 sets, which supply armament, aimed at the PJ range of Mirage IIIs and 5s. We start with the big sets called the Mirage III/5 Weapons Set which supplies the following weapons: R-550 Magic 2 and pylon, AIM-9B Sidewinder and pylon, CES-3 rocket pods and pylon adaptors, STRIM Bombs and Alkan P65 adaptors and the JL-100 and pylon. Finally we also have a selection of ECM pods, the Barrax, Phimat and Barracuda 2. Next we have two significant French weapons, the Nord AS-30S and the AS-37 Martel which would look good under a newtool Buccaneer.

1/72 Scale Defiant Mk 1 Exhaust – Rounded Product No: 72 482 Designed for: Airfix Defiant Mk 1 Exhaust – Fishtail Product No: 72 483 Designed for: Airfix C-47 Skytrain Engines Product No: 72 490 Designed for: Airfix

1/72 Scale

Conclusion

Mirage III/5 Weapons Set For: PJ Production Product No: 721214

The quality of the resin is first class and the fins are of scale thickness so a big improvement on 99% of plastic examples. In the UK all of the PJ Production range is available from Hannants; for other countries visit PJ Production's website at www.pjproduction.net. Or of course you can visit the stand at Scale ModelWorld in November. Our thanks to Philippe Jacques of PJ Production for supplying the review samples.

Matra AS-37 Martel Missile Product No: 721216 Nord AS-30 Missile Product No: 72 1218

Bristol Blenheim Mk IV Gun Barrels Product No: 72 493 Designed for: Airfix

1/48 Scale P-61 Black Widow Antennas Product No: 48 641 Designed for: HobbyBoss P-61A Black Widow Guns Turret Product No: 48 643 Designed for: HobbyBoss La-5 Exhaust Product No: 48 644 Designed for: Zvezda Mk 103 Gun Muzzles Product No: 48 103 Designed for: N/A 1-16 Gun Barrels and Pitot Tube Product No: 48 647 Designed for: Eduard

Aires This month the latest releases from Aires do not consist of any of their complicated multi-media sets, instead the concentration is on more basic sets. As an example we have a number of basic control surface sets that have very thin trailing edges, which are just not possible with injection-moulded kits. As is normal a small instruction sheet clearly guides you through the assembly process, though only the Hornet exhaust really needs them.

Gloster Gladiator Control Surfaces Product No: 7332 Designed for: Airfix

1/48 Scale A6M Zero Control Surfaces Product No: 4656 Designed for: Hasegawa

Kamov Ka-50 Gun Product No: 4663 Designed for: Italeri

L-29 Delfin Nose Nitrogen Bay Product No: 4659 Designed for: AMK

Conclusion

1/72 Scale F/A-18E/F Super Hornet Exhaust Nozzles Opened Product No: 7327 Designed for: Hasegawa

F-106A Delta Dart Antennas Product No: 48 650 Designed for: Trumpeter Hawk T Mk 1A Pitot Tubes Product No: 48 651 Designed for: HobbyBoss

Conclusion Another batch of budget upgrades from Quickboost, all produced to this manufacturer's normal high standards. Our thanks to Quickboost for supplying the review samples, which can be purchased in the UK from Hannants.

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SCALE AVIATION MODELLER INTERNATIONAL

P-51D Mustang Control Surfaces Product No: 4661 Designed for: Tamiya

Though these are simple sets they still offer better detail than their plastic equivalents. Our thanks to Aires for the review samples which in the UK can be purchased from Hannants.

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ACCESSORIES

Yahu Models Last month we introduced Yahu models from Poland, and this month we have even more of their little blue packets. Yahu have produced a unique product, preassembled and painted instrument panels that are just drop-in replacements for the kit's instrument panel. On the front of each pack is a printed illustration of the panel inside and it is only when you open the packet and see how tiny the part is that you then realise that all of the detail seen on the printed image is present on the panel. Last month we featured the 1/72 sets but this month we now have the first of the 1/48 scale sets that are just as detailed as their smaller brothers. Moving up to 1/32 scale things get a little more complicated as Yahu have produced 3 ranges defined by the letters at the start of the description. YMA are the standard instrument panels while YML provide printed brass dials with separate bezels, while YMS provide brass detail sets.

• YMA 7226 PZL P.24

1/72 Scale

• YMA 7235 Bloch MB.152

• YMA 7241 Macchi MC.205

• YMA 7231 Fokker D.XXI Finland late

Signifer 1/48 Scale

• YMA 7233 Ploikarpov I153 Chaika

4032 • YMA 4812 Fokker Wulf Fw 190A Middle

It has been a while since we had anything new from Signifer, but this month as well as a reissue of their 1/48 Grumman G.21 Goose with Portuguese markings, which has been passed to the review team, we also received 2 new wheel sets. Both are in 1/48 scale and we start with the Fw 190 set which is suitable for any late mark from the A-8 to the D9. The second set is for the Me 262 and consists of four wheels! OK, I know the type only has three but Signifer provide both types of nose wheel used on the Me 262, with and without a tread pattern.

1/72 Scale Fokker Wulf Fw 190A-8 to D-9 wheels Product No: SN48014 • YMA 7234 Fokker Wulf Fw 190A Late

1/32 Scale • YMS3201 Luftwaffe Latches 10 Pcs

Messerschmitt Me 262 Wheels Product No: SN48015

Conclusion

• YMA 7222 Stirling Mk IV

• YMA3201 Supermarine Spitfire Mk II • YMA 7223 Bristol Beaufighter Mk VI

• YMA 7236 Morane MS.406

I really like these wheels, as though they have a flattened surface to represent the weight of the aircraft on the tyre they do not have a heavily punctured look. For ordering details and to see the full range visit signifier.chezalicefr/uk.htm and our thanks to J Meissonnier for supplying the review samples

• YML3201 Arado A 234B-2 • YML3203 Sopwith Pup SAM33808

• YMA 7224 Fokker Wulf Fw 190A early

• YML3202 Albatross D.V

• YMA 7237 BP Defiant Mk I/II

without magnification. And with prices in the UK range from just £1.65 to £5.99 these sets are good value. Our thanks to Yahu models for supplying the review samples, the full range can be seen on their website at www.yahumodels.siemiano wice.com

• YMA 7225 Junkers Ju 88C-6

Conclusion I am still impressed with these sets and cannot wait for a chance to use them, especially now we have sizes that my eyes can see

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ACCESSORIES

Scale Aircraft Conversions This month SAC are concentrating on new release with their latest white metal leg’s . Though older kits are catered for with sets for Wingnut Wings Albatross 1/32 and Sweets 1/144 Hurricane, well old if you call 5 years old!

1/32 Scale Albatross D.V/Va Landing Gear Product No: 32100 Designed for: Wingnut wings Price: $15.95 Bell P-39 Airacobra Landing Gear Product No: 32101 Designed for: Kittyhawk Price: $18.95

1/48 Kamov Ka-27 Landing Gear Product No: 48291 Designed for: Hobbyboss Price: $17.95

GT Resin Over the last few months we have been covering the products of GT Resin which include many sets to upgrade the Revell F-4 Phantom family. We start with a seamless intake which replaces the whole of the kit's intakes with a seamless example moulded in off-white resin while the splitter plates and engine fans are moulded in grey. If you have the Tamiya kit this set has also been released with slightly different tooling of the white resin to fit this kit with only minimal preparation. At the other end of the aircraft we have a set of shorter exhaust nozzles for Revell’s RF-4C Phantom to complement the longer shape used by the RF/F-4E variant that we have previously reviewed. Finally we have another exhaust set for the F-15 Eagle, which provides a choice of engine fans for either the older PW100/220 engine or the current PW220E, and this set can be used on both the 1/32 Revell or Tamiya F-15 Eagle.

1/72 Scale Bristol Bombay Landing Gear Product No: 72112 Designed for: Valom Price: $16.95 Douglas C-54 Skymaster/ Dc-4 Landing Gear Product No: 72113 Designed for: Revell Price: $17.95

Pilots, No.1 Squadron RAF, 1918

1/144 Scale

1/72 Scale

Hawker Hurricane Landing Gear Includes 2 main gear with doors Product No: 14420 Designed for: Sweet Price: $5.95

These three sets are a departure for Gunthwaite Miniatures who previously have set the standard in white metal figures of naval personnel and interwar naval pilots and deck crew, suitable for such subjects as the Swordfish. These three new sets are cast in resin and the detail is fantastic. They are figures representing British World War 1 pilots CIRCA 1918, showing the wonderful mix of uniforms worn at the time after the amalgamation of the RFC and RNAS. Each set contains three figures, which can be used individually or used together, and the three sets can be used to recreate the famous photo showing a group of No.1 Squadron pilots in front of their SE.5As at Clairmarais South in July 1918. These sets are absolutely first rate, the detail is superb as is the casting, with no flaws on my examples, and the clean-up is minimal. Prior to painting they will of course need to be

Conclusion As always these samples were provided by Scale Aircraft Conversions and will be available to purchase in the UK from Hannants and www.oxonianplasticfantastic.co.uk the manufacturers also have their own website at www.scaleaircraftconversions.com Our thanks to Ross McMillan for supplying the review samples.

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NOVEMBER 2015 •

F-4 Seamless Intake Set (Revell) F-4 Seamless Intake Set (Tamiya) RF-4C J79 Exhaust set F-15 PW100/120 or PW200 Exhaust Set

Conclusion As we have said before, the instructions supply all you need to successfully fit these sets to your model, and I had to smile at the F-15 instructions that tell you not cut your jet pipe in half like they have to show the construction of the parts! As they say, you just know someone that would. To see the full range visit the Large Scale Planes modelling forum which hosts the GT Resin stock list and order details www.largescaleplanes.com and they also have a store at http://stores.ebay.c...enter762?_rdc=1. They can also be contacted direct via email at [email protected]. Our thanks to Gary of GT Resin for supplying the information on his range.

Gunthwaite Miniatures

Bristol Beaufighter Landing Gear Product No: 72114 Designed for: Airfix Price: $14.95

Supermarine Spitfire Landing Gear Includes 2 main gear Product No: 14421 Designed for: Eduard Price: $5.95

1/32 scale

SCALE AVIATION MODELLER INTERNATIONAL

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washed and primed, but this is something we should always do with both plastic and white metal figures. • GR72001: RAF Pilots 1918 (seated pilot, bare headed pilot and pilot with arm raised) GR72002: RAF Pilots 1918 (officer with service cap, pilot with Sidcot suit and pilot with scarf) GR72003: RAF Pilots 1918 (Pilot bare head, pilots with scarves) The figures are only available from the following sources: • Halifax Model World www.halifaxmodellersworld.co.uk • Coastal Craft www.coastalcraftmodelsuk.com • Float-a-Boat www.floataboat.com.au Now all I need to do is see if I have a 1/72 scale Roden SE.5A or two in my stash!

1014-18-Accessories-1115_Layout 1 09/10/2015 12:51 Page 1017

ACCESSORIES

Eduard Brassin This month’s new releases in the Brassin range are mainly weapon sets that all offer a considerable upgrade over injection-moulded plastic examples, even those in dedicated weapons sets. The other sets this month are aimed at the HK Models Mosquito though I am sure many will be adapted to fit the Tamiya kit, especially the five-stack exhausts which were fitted on the inner cowling of some Mosquitos.

1/48 Scale AM-39 Exocet Product No: 648 194 Designed for: N/A

1/72 Scale Mk 84 bombs, retarded fin Product No: 672 074 Designed for: N/A

Mk 81 Bombs Product No: 648 224 Designed for: N/A LAU-10/A Zuni Product No: 648 226 Designed for: N/A MER (Multiple Ejector Rack) Product No: 648 227 Designed for: N/A

Conclusion 1/32 Scale Mosquito FB Mk IV Wheels Product No: 648 061 Designed for: HK Models Mosquito FB Mk IV Exhaust Stacks Product No: 632 059 Designed for: N/A

I always like the Eduard Brassin sets, and though none of these have the WOW factor of their detailed cockpit or engine sets they still offer improvement on areas that are noticeable on your model. Our thanks to Eduard for the samples, which are now available from your favourite dealer worldwide.

HANSEN FINE ART Aviation, Naval & Military Art Specialists

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Lancaster Montage by John Hunter GAvA 3 Sizes from £12.00

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1014-18-Accessories-1115_Layout 1 09/10/2015 12:51 Page 1018

SHESTO – exclusive suppliers to Europe

ACCESSORIES

PRODUCT OF THE MONTH

Aztek AZ7778 Ultimate Metal Airbrush Set by Tim Upson Smith his excellent new Aztek set simply oozes quality. The Beachwood box is a work of art in itself, and interior has cut outs which fit the various nozzles and cups, while the airbrush body itself comes in a velvet pouch to prevent scratches.

T

Inside you have: One 480 Series Metal Airbrush and 6’ (1.8m) hose, Nine Nozzles: Fine Line, High Flow, General Detail, Acrylic General Detail, Acrylic High Flow, Spatter, Small Coverage, Medium Coverage and Large coverage. You also have Five Feed

Cups, a 2.5cc Side Feed, 3cc Gravity Feed, 7.5cc Gravity Feed, 10cc Gravity Feed and a 12cc Top Feed. Also included are Two Siphon Jarswith a 28mm Siphon Cap and a bottle and a 33mm Siphon Cap and Bottle, plus a Compressor Adapter and Nozzle Wrench, along with an Instructional DVD and printed Manual What I really like about these airbrushes is how easy the various nozzles are removed when changing paint colours and at the end of the session for cleaning. I am sure that I am not alone in hating cleaning my airbrush between shades, as it always seems

to take ages! On the Aztek airbrushes, the only part that needs to be cleaned is the nozzle, as the needle is an integral part of the body. As the nozzles are made of acrylic they are pretty impervious to all cleaning materials, so paint can be removed without fear of damage. What you must never do, however, is to put a tissue over the end and blow air back through it, as this will get paint into the body of the airbrush, where it will be very difficult to clean out. That said the metal bodied chrome finish on this Aztek is easier to clean than the plastic bodied version as any split paint just wipes off. The selection of different size paint cups with lids to avoid spillage is another great thing about this airbrush, plus the fact that the paint cup can be fitted in to either side, and if you are spraying really large areas there are two large siphon jars provided too. The nozzles are colour coded for different paint mediums and different spray withstand to change these widths, spray areas or paint mediums you

just take

the red plastic nozzle removing tool, unscrew the nozzle and replace with the colour nozzle that fits your exact requirements! As a quick trial I used this airbrush, and some of the 2mm Modelcraft masking tape to mask off the canopies on my Avia 534 and got a perfect result. After a quick change of nozzles I had painted the tail band masked with 18mm on a 1/48 RQ-8 all in the same session with no tedious cleaning, very impressive. This metal bodied Aztek really does feel solid in the hand and is well balanced so it feels really good to use. On purchasing this set you will find everything you need for model making and general hobby and craft spraying without the need to make further expensive purchases. Highly recommended.

For more information on this and other products go to the Shesto web site www.shesto.com or contact them directly via email at [email protected] or telephone 0208 451 6188.

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SCALE AVIATION MODELLER INTERNATIONAL

1019-SAC-1115-WP_Layout 1 09/10/2015 14:08 Page 1

Scale Aircraft Conversions White Metal & Resin Aircraft Parts Since 1990

32100 Albatros D.V/Va Landing Gear (WW)

32101 P-39 Airacobra Landing Gear (KH)

(replacement for 1/32 Wingnut Wings)

(replacement for 1/32 Kitty Hawk)

48291 Ka-27 Helix Landing Gear (HB)

72112 Bristol Bombay Landing Gear (Val)

(replacement for 1/48 Hobby Boss)

(replacement for 1/72 Valom)

72113 C-54/DC-4 Skymaster Landing Gear (Rev)

72114 Bristol Beaufighter Landing Gear (AX)

(replacement for 1/72 Revell)

(replacement for 1/72 Airfix)

14420 Hurricane Landing Gear (Swt) [2 sets]

14421 Spitfire Landing Gear (Edu) [2 sets]

(replacement for 1/144 Sweet) (main gear for 2 aircraft)

(replacement for 1/144 Eduard) (main gear for 2 aircraft)

scaleaircraftconversions.com

1020-22-Decals-1115_Layout 1 09/10/2015 12:57 Page 1020

DECALS

Iliad Decals

Starfighter Decals

The latest decal releases from Iliad include some much needed schemes for Revell's reissue of the Matchbox Twin Otter from Canada, Columbia, USANG and France, though my favourite is the only civil example operated by the Red Cross in Algeria and Afghanistan. The second sheet covers the operation of the P-47 Thunderbolt in use by the Air National Guard in the late 1940s that includes on two examples attractive artwork, and another example with an advert to enlist in the ANG. All of the schemes are fully illustrated on the colour instruction sheet, and for the P-47 sheets these include very detailed instructions on placing the shaped decals around the intercooler doors.

This month we have four sheets all of which have a lot of colourful schemes. In 1/72 we have reserve Corsairs which have either orange or yellow fuselage stripes. In 1/48 scale the new Kaydet gets markings for both yellow and blue fuselage schemes, most of which have colourful rudders. One option also supplies markings for a silver aircraft with large areas of orange on the fuselage and wings, which was new to me. Finally we have a sheet for the Bearcat, not normally a colourful type as most just had a small area of colour to show the squadron. That is unless you include markings for one in the utility scheme with yellow wings and tail complete with red wing stripes and rudder.

1/72 Scale 72-015 DHC-6 Twin Otters DHC-6 Series 300, FAE 499, of the Ecuadorian Air Force, Sept. 1994. This aircraft crashed in Jan 2011. • Twin Otter series 300 operated by Transport Canada in the coastal pollution surveillance role, ca 2006-7. • UV-18A (essentially a series 300, but with the short nose) of the Alaska Army National Guard, ca 1979. • Twin Otter series 300 of the French Air Force's ET 2/65, El Gorah, Egypt, 1989. • Twin Otter series 300 operated by the International Committee of the Red Cross in 2004, when the aircraft was used in Algeria and Afghanistan. •

1/48 Scale 48029 ANG P-47s • P-47N, 489337, of the 198th Fighter Squadron, Puerto Rico Air National Guard, 1947. • P-47N, 488854, of the 199th Fighter Squadron, Hawaii Air National Guard, 1947. • A P-47D of the 104th FS, Maryland Air National Guard, 1946.

1/72 Scale 72-147 Bent Wing Birds Pt. 2 Corsairs in the Reserves and a Warbird • NFG-10 BuNo 92041 HAS Livermore late 1946. • NFG-10 BuNo 92236 NAS Oakland Oct 1948. • FG-10 BuNo 92150 NAS Sand Point WA. • FG-10 BuNo 76643 VMF-122 Peleliu Lt L.E. Anheuser 1945.

1/48 Scale 48-09 F8F-2 Bearcats in USN Service • F8F-2D BuNo 122663 VU-4 NAAS Chinoteague 1953-54, • F8F-2 BuNo 121701 VF-152 CAG October 1949. • F8F-2 BuNo 121695 VF-194 USS Boxer 1950. • F8F-2 BuNo 121664 VF-61 USS Coral Sea 1949. 48-10 N2S-3 Kaydet USN Primary Trainer • N2S-2 Kaydet BuNo 3553 NAS Corpus Christi 1943. • N2S-3 Kaydet BuNo UNK NAAS Corry Field 1943. • N2S-3 Kaydet BuNo 05369 on display National Museum of Naval Aviation.

Conclusion Iliad have a knack of picking attractive schemes and I'm really pleased that the Twin Otter has some optional markings for the Canadian Air Force scheme that has been a feature of both Revell and Matchbox boxings. Our thanks to Iliad for the review samples which are available in the UK from Hannants.

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NOVEMBER 2015 •

SCALE AVIATION MODELLER INTERNATIONAL

48-11 PT-17 Kaydet USAAC/USAAF Primary Trainer • PT-13D Serial No Unknown, Randolph Field, TX 1938. • PT-27 Serial No 42-15680 Thunderbird Field, AZ. • PT-17 Serial No unknown.

Conclusion I really like Starfighter sheets as the choice of schemes is always interesting and they are always keenly priced. The full colour instructions supply all you need and on the Kadet sheets I appreciate the inclusion of the fuselage bands as well as wing walkways that even have the metal joining straps complete with rivet detail. If you are interested in US Navy and Marine aircraft you should really visit Starfighter's site as they have so much of interest in all the major scales. Their address is www.starfighterdecals.com and we thank them for supplying the review samples.

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DECALS

XtraDecal Just in from Xtradecal are the first sheets for the colourful schemes applied to RAF and Royal Navy aircraft during 2014-15. Types covered in 1/72 and 1/48 include Typhoon, Tornado and Hawk aircraft. The instructions include a separate sheet that supplies a selection of colour photographs of all the aircraft featured, a really nice touch. Moving up to 1/32 scale we have a sheet for Bomber Mosquitos, perfect for the recent HK Models glass-nosed bomber. Four options are for RAF aircraft while the fifth provides markings for a USAAF operated F-8 called the Spook. •

1/72 Scale •

72-230 RAF & RN Update 2014-15 Pt 1 • BAE Systems Hawk T.1A, XX240/'849' of Royal Navy based at RNAS Culdrose 2014. • BAE Systems Tornado GR.4, ZA461 crewed by Wing Commander Jon Nixon & Squadron Leader Conan Mullineaux of VX(R) Squadron, RAF based at RAF Lossiemouth, 2015. • BAE Systems Tornado GR.4, ZA456 crewed by Wing Commander I.J. Sharrocks & Flight Lieutenant A.H. Lock of 9 Squadron, RAF based at RAF Marham, 2015. • Eurofighter Typhoon FGR.4, ZK349/'GN.A' flown by Flight Lieutenant B Westoby Brooks of 29(F) Squadron, RAF, based at RAF Coningsby, 2015. •

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BAE Systems Hawk T.1A, XX327, flown by Squadron Leader Gareth Kennedy of RAF Centre of Aviation Medicine RAF, based at Boscombe Down, 2015. Eurofighter Typhoon FGR.4, ZJ946/'EB.A' flown by Flight Lieutenant D Forbes of 41(R) TES Squadron, RAF, based at RAF Coningsby, April 2015. BAE Systems Hawk T.1A, XX350, flown by Wing Commander N.J. Gatenby and Squadron Leader D. Arlett of 208 Squadron, RAF, based at RAF Valley, 2015. Eurofighter Typhoon FGR.4, ZJ925/'DXI' flown by Wing Commander C Layden of XI(F) Squadron, RAF, based at RAF Coningsby, 2015. Eurofighter Typhoon FGR.4, ZK353/'BQ' flown by Flight Lieutenant Jonny Dowen of 29(F) Squadron, RAF, based at RAF Coningsby, 20156. Eurofighter Typhoon FGR.4, ZK344/'II' flown by Wing Commander R.G. Elliott of II(AC) Squadron, RAF, based at RAF Lossiemouth, 2015.

1/48 Scale 48-154 RAF Update 2014-15 Pt 1 • Eurofighter Typhoon FGR.4, ZJ925/'DXI' flown by Wing Commander C Layden of XJ(F) Squadron, RAF, based at RAF Coningsby, 2015. • Eurofighter Typhoon FGR.4, ZK353/'BQ' flown by Flight Lieutenant Jonny Down of 29(F) Squadron, RAF, based at RAF Coningsby, 2015. • Eurofighter Typhoon FGR.4, ZK349/'GN.A' flown by Flight Lieutenant B Westoby Brooks of 29(F) Squadron, RAF, based at RAF Coningsby, 2015. • BAE Systems Tornado GR.4, ZA461 crewed by Wing Commander Jon Nixon & Squadron Leader Conan Mullineaux of XV(R) Squadron, RAF based at RAF Lossiemouth, 2015.

1/32 Scale 32-059 de Havilland Mosquito B Mk IV/B.XX/T.III • de Havilland Mosquito B Mk IV Series II DZ421, 'XD.G' crewed by Officer Commanding, Wing Commander Peter Shand and Pilot Officer C.D. Handley of 139 Squadron, RAF based at RAF

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Marham, Norfolk, early 1943. de Havilland Mosquito T Mk III Series II TV970, 'FK.V' of 219 Squadron, RAF based at RAF Wittering, Cambridgeshire, 1946. de Havilland Mosquito B Mk XX Series II KB253, 'RI' of RCAF 1944. de Havilland Mosquito B Mk XX Series II KB288, 'VI' of RCAF 1944. de Havilland Canada Mosquito F8 334926 'The Spook' flown by Major James Setchell of 3rd Photographic Group (Reconnaissance), USAAF based at La Marsa, Tunisia, November, 1943.

Conclusion I really like this sheets and the colour schemes on the RAF sheet are really striking, especially the scheme for 11 and 29 Squadrons which features some stunning silver markings over Ruby Red or gloss black, and the printing of the silver markings is really first rate. Our thanks to Hannants for the review samples which can be purchased with the rest of the Xtradecal range from their website as well as from many model shops around the world.

Got an Academy, Eduard or Hasegawa 1:48 Phantom? Then you need these:

McD 370gal Wing Tanks

Slotted and Unslotted Stabilators with PE parts Canopy Detail Sett

A/C Intakes

MB Mk.H5 Seats Navy and Air Force Types

made by and available from:

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DECALS

Condor Decals

Airfile Decals

Some of the latest sheets from this Argentinian manufacturer feature aircraft used during the Falklands War, or Guerra de Malvinas. This month we have part 3 of their coverage of this operation with a sheet that features A-4P Skyhawks, IAI Daggers, UH-1H Huey and three Sea Harrier FRS.1s. One aircraft missing from this sheet is the Mirage III but this is amply covered by its own sheet which will enable you produce any EC/CJ Mirage in either the three-colour Vietnam style camouflage or the Desert scheme.

Latest from Airfile are two sheets for the 1/32 scale Revell Hunter in both single- and twoseat versions. The single-seaters are predominantly the F.6 variant which can be produced out of the box from the Revell F.6 kit. But you also have markings for F.4 and F.5 variants which will need the Flightpath conversion. No twoseat version of this kit has been released so for that you will need the wonderful Fisher conversion which is a dream to use, and once combined with the colourful options on this decal sheet will produce a stunning model.

1/72 Scale COD-72054 Mirage IIIEA/CJ in the Argentine Air Force II • Mirage IIIEA 1-011 Escuadron II del Grupo Aereo 5 de caza, Base Aerea Militar Tandil 1988. • Mirage IIIDA 1-002 Escaudron II del Grupo Aereo 8 de caza, Base Aerea Militar Moreno 1986. • Mirage IIIEA 1-007 Escaudron II del Grupo Aereo 7 de caza, Base Aeea Militar Tandil 1988. • Mirage IIIBJ C-721 Aeropuerto Las Higueras, Cordoba 1983. • Mirage IIICJ C-703 Escaudron 55, Grupo Aereo 4 de caza, Base Aerea El Plumerillo 1996. • Mirage IIICJ C-708 IV Brigada Aerea, El Plumerillo, Mendoza 1985.

1/48 Scale COD-48047 Guerra de Malvinas Pt. III • Douglas A-4P(B) Skyhawk, C-212,Grupo 5 Caza Y Atague. • Douglas A-4P(B) Skyhawk, C-214,Grupo 5 Caza Y Atague. • Douglas A-4P(B) Skyhawk, C-239,Grupo 5 Caza Y Atague. • Douglas A-4P(B) Skyhawk, C-221,Grupo 5 Caza Y Atague. • Douglas A-4P(B) Skyhawk, C-250,Grupo 5 Caza Y Atague. • Douglas A-4B Skyhawk, C-222 “El Tordillo”. • IAI Dagger C-432, Grupo 6 de Caza. • IAI Dagger C-436, Grupo 6 de Caza. • IAI Dagger C-407, Grupo 6 de Caza. • IAI Dagger C-411, Grupo 6 de Caza. • UH-1H Batalion de Aviacion de Combate 601 Mayo-Junio 1982 – Puerto Agertino – Malvinas. • UH-1H AE-413, Batalion de Aviacion deCombate 601 Junio 1982 Malvinas. • BAe Sea Harrier FRS.1, 000, XZ455, HMS Illustrious. • BAe Sea Harrier FRS.1, 004, XZ175, HMS Illustrious. • Sea Harrier FRS.1, 27, ZX496, HMS Hermes. • Sea Harrier FRS.1, ZX492, HMS Hermes. COD-48054 Mirage IIIEA/CJ in the Argentine Air Force II • Exactly the same as the sheet above in 1/72 scale COD72054

Conclusion The sheets are well printed and the instructions supply all you need with black and white line drawings and colour notes for the widely available Humbrol range. Have a look at the company's website to see the full range at www.condordecal.com.ar

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1/32 Scale 32-001 Decals with options for 9 different single-seat Hawker Hunters • Hawker Hunter F Mk 4 XF976 'B' flown by Gordon Browne of 3 Squadron, Royal Air Force, Royal Air Force Geilenkirchen, West Germany, 13 May 1957. • Hawker Hunter F Mk 5, WP130, 'S' of 34 Squadron, Royal Air Force Tangmere, based at Royal Air Force Nicosia, Cyprus during 'Operation Musketeer' November 1956. • Hawker ?Hunter F Mk 6 XF383 of 12 Squadron, Royal Air Force, Royal Air Force Honington, July 1984. • Hawker Hunter F Mk 6, XJ680 'A' of 20 Squadron, Royal Air Force, Royal Air Force Gutersloh, West Germany June 1959. • Hawker Hunter F Mk 6, XK149, '44' of 79 (Madras Presidency) Squadron, Royal Air Force, Royal Air Force Brawdy, late 1970s. • Hawker Hunter F Mk 6, XF383, '14' of 229 Operational Conversion Unit (145 Squadron), Royal Air Force, Duxford August 1960. • Hawker Hunter F Mk 6, XG185, '74' of 4 Fighter Training School Royal Air Force, Royal Air Force Valley 1974. • Hawker Hunter FGC Mk 9 XF421 'C', of 8 Squadron, Royal Air Force, based at Khormaksar, Aden, 1962. • Hawker Hunter F Mk 4, WV275, 'D' flown by Squadron Leader Ray Chapman, Commanding Officer of IV(AC) Squadron, Royal Air Force, Royal Air Force Jever, West Germany, 1956. 32-002 Decals with options for 14 different twin-seat Hawker Hunters • Hawker Hunter T Mk 7 XL601 of 1 Squadron, Royal Air Force, Royal Air Force Brawdy, late 1960s. • Hawker Hunter T Mk 7 XL596, 'I' of IV (AC) Squadron, Royal Air Force, Royal Air Force Wildenrath, West Germany late September 1970. • Hawker Hunter T Mk 7 XL612, 'T' of 8 Squadron, Royal Air Force, Masirah, Oman 1967.

SCALE AVIATION MODELLER INTERNATIONAL

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• Hawker Hunter T Mk 7 XL600 '83' of Royal Air Force Wattisham Station Flight, Royal Air Force Wattisham 1970s. Hawker Hunter T Mk 7 XL573, '973' of 12 Squadron, Royal Air Force, Royal Air Force Lossiemouth, early 1980s. Hawker Hunter T Mk 7 XL611 'T' of 43 (China British) Squadron, Royal Air Force, Royal Air Force Leuchars 1959. Hawker Hunter T Mk 7 XL596 of 54 Squadron, Royal Air Force, Royal Air Force Stradishall, March 1960. Hawker Hunter T Mk 7 XL609, of 56 (Punjab) Squadron, Royal Air Force, Royal Air Force Waterbeach 1960. Hawker Hunter T Mk 7 XL620, of 66 Squadron, Royal Air Force, Royal Air Force Acklington 1960. Hawker Hunter T Mk 7 XL566, 'T/W' of 1417 Flight, Royal Air Force, Royal Air Force Khormaksar, Aden 1967. Hawker Hunter T Mk 7 XL609 of 216 Squadron, Royal Air Force, Royal Air Force Lossiemouth 1980. Hawker Hunter T Mk 7 XL573 of 237 Operational Conversion Unit, Royal Air Force, Royal Air Force Honington 1983. Hawker Hunter T Mk 7 XL573, 'WC' of 237 Operational Conversion Unit, Royal Air Force, Royal Air Force Honington, July 1987. Hawker Hunter T Mk 7 XL621 '81' of 4 Training School, Royal Air Force Valley 1973.

Conclusion These decals are very impressive and the colourful markings added to an already attractive aircraft will make a stunning model. The only fly in the ointment is that for most of the options you will need to do some modifications to the only Revell Hunter currently available, the FGA.9, and though affordable this has the latter style jet pipe which is correct for the two-seaters but not for any of the single-seaters. Fortunately the Flightpath conversion includes the smooth jet pipe as well as detail parts for all variants as well as the wing conversion for the F.4/5. I really hope that Flightpath may expand on the Hunter theme with markings for the FGA.9 variants. Our thank to Fantasy Printshop for supplying these review samples which are available from www.fantasyprintshop.co.uk.

1023-Ultimate-1115-WP_Layout 1 09/10/2015 14:08 Page 1

COLOURS

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email: [email protected]

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1024-25-Show-580Modellers-1115_Layout 1 09/10/2015 12:58 Page 1024

SHOW REPORT

The exhibition hall, now the Rix Pavilion; the transformation from cow shed has been extremely well done and as a result it is a much more becoming place for a quality model show, which is what the East Riding Model Show has become. To reinforce this, once again most of Driffield appeared to turn out to see what was on display.

Winner of the small-scale aircraft category was this beautifully constructed, painted and weathered little 1:144 Hunter, also undergoing some form of maintenance, on the IPMS Cleveland display.

‘Putting on the Rix’

The organisers also put on a make-and-take which saw the now retired, and host club member, Trevor Snowden helping children to assemble a Revell product. Gasp. With it being a small-scale 747 then the sky was the limit as far as colour schemes go and most of the makers took the full opportunity to show their artistic side.

SUNDAY 6TH SEPTEMBER 2015 East Riding of Yorkshire Model Show by Geoff Cooper-Smith romise fulfilled! Since their first show just four years ago IPMS Bridlington and Wolds have been promising a much improved venue for their East Riding of Yorkshire Show at the East Yorkshire Showground on the outskirts of Driffield. This year saw the first show in the newly finished, and rather grandly named ‘Rix Pavilion’. It is the same basic structure i.e. a cow shed (!), but barely recognisable from the inside due to an extensive makeover resulting in plastered walls, a carpeted floor, a proper fronted entrance, a level ceiling graced with chandeliers, air conditioning and a side extension providing a swish new toilet block. In fact everything you need to make this a rather super venue.

P

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NOVEMBER 2015 •

The show itself was the usual well organised and friendly affair with the best bits retained, including every model on display being automatically entered into the competition with the winners presented with the now traditional agricultural rosettes – red for first, blue for second and yellow for third. Incredibly though it has been a pretty dismal summer the organisers managed to ensure the sun was beating down on the event all day, virtually unencumbered by cloud, which made sitting in the outdoor catering area and watching the radio controlled displays a very pleasant experience indeed. his year saw an enhanced presence from the radio controlled brigade with an air display, a boat pool and some miniature steam, which unfortunately was static but got a lot of interest and sparked off many a conversation about the desire for a

SCALE AVIATION MODELLER INTERNATIONAL

garden railway. And to cap off a great end to a fantastic day the efforts of the 580 crew, in particular Dave Foxall who has recently taken over all aspects of table organisation, were rewarded by the presentation of five rosettes and Best Club Display by the organisers. As this was our

Dave Eccles’ very last time with us (he moved down to Cornwall some three weeks later) and his 1:32 ‘Lightning Under Maintenance’ was undoubtedly a significant contribution to the award we insisted he collect the trophy and retain it as a memento of his time with us, for he will undoubtedly be missed. So many thanks to Kevin Dolman and his merry band of cheerful and organised chaps for once again ‘Putting on the Rix.......’ A makeshift boat pool was constructed outside specifically for the show and there was a selection of boats, courtesy of the local radio control club, making waves during the event. The good weather saw it used plenty, which in turn drew a considerable audience throughout the day; needless to say this is just the sort of progressive inventiveness that is getting the show noticed.

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Model Show News Compiled by Geoff Cooper-Smith of 580 Modellers EVENTS FOR NOVEMBER AND EARLY DECEMBER 2015 The run-in to ScaleModelWorld at Telford on 7th and 8th November gains pace and fast approaches!

OCTOBER

DECEMBER

24th (Saturday)

5th (Saturday)

GRAVESHAM MILITARY MODELLING SOCIETY

HAMEX 7, SWAPMEET AND MODEL SHOW

present their annual open day at North West Kent College, Lower Higham Road, Chalk, Gravesend, Kent, DA12 2JJ. Doors open at 10am and the event closes at 4pm. There is a competition with no less than 22 adult classes and three junior classes plus best in show. For further details go to www.gmms.org.uk/index.php/en/open-day

at Hanslope Village Hall, Newport Road, Hanslope, Buckinghamshire, MK19 7NZ. Doors open at 10am and the show closes at 4pm. Admission is £2 per adult, accompanied children under 16 free. There will be plenty of free parking and refreshments at the K-9 cafe. For further details go to: www.hamex.co.uk

25th (Sunday)

THE LONDON PLASTIC MODELLING SHOW

6th (Sunday)

NOREX HOBBY SHOW 2015 at the William Loveless Hall, 85-87 High Street, Wivenhoe, Essex, CO7 9AB. Doors open at 10am and the event closes at 4pm. Admission prices to be confirmed. Competition and refreshments are available. For more details contact Bob Rowles on [email protected]

Winner of the large-scale aircraft category was our very own Dave Eccles with his 1:32 Lightning F.3 ‘Under Maintenance’. This has very much been a work in progress since it debuted at Scale Model World in 2014 but Dave reckons it is now finished as he cannot think of any more bits needed to complete the job (although there were some unhelpful suggestions from the 580 crew!).

NOVEMBER 1st (Sunday)

NORTH SHROPSHIRE MODEL SHOW presented by the Ellesmere Model Railway Club and Shropshire Scale Modellers at Ellesmere Market Hall, Scotland Street, Ellesmere, SY12 0ED. Doors open at 10am and the event closes at 4pm. Free admission. Lots of local parking, tombola, refreshments, Airfix ‘Make and Take’ and a shop window competition. This event is being organised to raise funds for the upkeep of the historic market hall, which is community run. For more details contact Gary Stevens on [email protected]

7th (Saturday) and 8th (Sunday)

SCALEMODELWORLD The biggest such event in the world. I am sure everyone knows about it but just in case you need to know more go to: www.smwshow.com SAMI attending

22nd (Sunday)

ENTHUSIASTS FAIR AND MODEL SHOW at the Museum of Army Flying, Middle Wallop, Stockbridge, Hampshire, SO20 8DY. Doors open at 10am and the show closes at 4pm. There will be reduced admission on the day (£7.50 for adults). For further details go to www.armyflying.com/aircraft-enthusiasts-fairand-model-show

at the Islington Business Design Centre, 52 Upper Street, London, N1 0QH. Doors open at 11am and the show closes at 4pm. Admission is £6 with accompanied children under 16 free. Free parking on adjacent streets and the venue is within ten minutes walk of Kings Cross, Euston, Angel and Highbury & Islington stations. Includes a free open competition, demonstrations and a make-and-take plus traders from Europe. For further details go to www.londonplasticmodellingshow.co.uk

6th (Sunday)

MIDLANDS AIR MUSEUM CHRISTMAS MODEL FAYRE in association with IPMS Coventry and Warwickshire at the Midlands Air Museum, Rowley Road, Baginton, Warwickshire, CV3 4FR. Doors open at 10am and the show closes at 4pm. Normal museum admission rates apply. There will be a limited number of places for traders and clubs. For further details contact IPMS Coventry and Warwickshire on [email protected]

12th and 13th (Saturday and Sunday)

THE MODEL SHOW at Poynton Leisure Centre, Yew Tree Lane, Poynton, Cheshire, SK12 1PU. Doors open at 10am and the show closes at 5pm (4.30pm Sunday). Admission is £5.50 per adult per day (£4.50 for armed services personal with ID), £3.50 for those aged 14 to 18 with accompanied under 14s free. There are also special rates for families and late admission. This show has developed and expanded its remit in recent years with a strong ‘fine-scale plastic modelling’, including 580 Modellers, present for the first time. For further details go to www.themodelshow.co.uk

28th (Saturday)

PLASTIC WINTER BRATISLAVA

The hosts once again put on a very good table themselves with some ‘theme pockets’, which made for a jolly interesting table. One of these ‘theme pockets’ was entitled ‘Adorable Arados’ which comprised a collection of mostly Arado 234s constructed from Frog, Revell and Dragon kits, often cross-kitted and with scratch built enhancements, of actual, ‘Luft 46’ and beyond ideas and schemes.

Will be held at Dom Culture Ruzinov- Ruzinvska , Bratislava hosted by KPM Bratislava With a competition with over 45 classes and a large number of traders iwill attract modellers from all over Europe . For details visit www.kpmbratislava.sk/zima.html SAMI attending

If you would like your event listing then please contact Geoff CooperSmith on 07841 417680 or at [email protected]. Full details of all coming shows and photo reports on those attended can be obtained by visiting www.580Modellers.co.uk

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Australian Model Expo 2015 6TH - 8TH JUNE 2015 By Ed Russell lastic scale modelling is alive and well in Australia judging by this year’s Australian Model Expo. The number of models was well over 2000. As well as the more traditional aircraft, car and armour models there is a growing number of Gundam, Mecha, Sci-Fi and diorama enthusiasts. The event has been going for over 30 years and is a real tribute to the hardworking volunteers who make it happen each year. For more information on this annual event go to

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www.modelexpo.com.au

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REVIEWS

ICM 1/72

Polikarpov I-153 Chaika By Konstantine Malinovski his time I would like to change the usual review format and start this piece with the conclusion. Please, feel free to stop reading after this paragraph and move on to the rest of the magazine’s article as the rest of the text below will be full of usual criticisms and advice, which in no way will change the final statement. Which is: “This kit is the best kit of the I-153 currently available in 1/72”. This kit has become the natural conclusion of ICM’s excellent line of Polikarpov’s early biplane fighters and is the first which has been designed and produced with modern CAD technology. In the past ICM produced kits of most of the series-produced biplanes designed in Polikarpov’s design bureau (throwing in an odd I-16) and great kits they were! Extremely accurate, with great detail and decent 'build-ability'. Since the early noughties the modelling community has been expecting the logical end to this line in the form of the I-153. And we waited and waited … and waited. Some excitement stirred in 2009 when ICM added the 'Chaika' to their catalogue, but then it did not materialize. The kit finally arrived in November 2014 and I personally had to check my sources to make sure that it was not another of the urban myths that often strike the modelling community and then disappear. But this time the kit is here and below are a few notes on my experience in putting it together, mixed with just a few suggestions on what can be done to improve the finished model. The first impression on the overall quality of the kit is very favourable – the parts come on one light grey sprue plus a minute clear tree with a tiny windshield. No flash or sink

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MANUFACTURER: ICM

TECH

PRODUCT NUMBER: 72074 SCALE: 1/72 TYPE: Injection moulded STATUS: New Tool PANEL LINES: Recessed PARTS: Plastic 65 Clear 1

marks anywhere. In the process of building the kit, however, I discovered that the plastic is very brittle and the thin parts would snap very easily. So be warned. The clear part… well it is clear, all right, but the shape and thickness of it demand a replacement. The kit contains a full array of underwing weaponry including rockets, two types of bombs and bomb racks. One will have to choose which ones to use, but the quality of offering is superb and the remnants will be a great addition to the spares box to be used on other projects. The decal sheet caters for four paint schemes and I am happy to report that a long-standing decal problem (which literally plagues all of the earlier ICM kits) has been finally resolved. The quality of the decals is very good and could rival most of the aftermarket competitors. The great first impression does not last long, however, as a closer look

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This kit has become the natural “ conclusion of ICM’s excellent line of Polikarpov’s early biplane fighters ” reveals a whole array of strange decisions and 'creative' shortcuts taken by the designers. First, the joints between parts are not cut along panel lines but in the middle of the panel surfaces, hence sanding and polishing are necessary. Then the cockpit interior… in their previous kits of Polikarpov’s fighters ICM have done a superb job in that particular department. One can see that they were trying to repeat the same feat here, but regrettably they got it wrong. Perhaps because they calculated the wall thickness incorrectly, or the mistake they may have made interpreting the drawings (for instance the front cut of the fuselage tubular frame was an inverted trapezoid and not a rectangle as in the kit) but the whole array of details in the cockpit suffers from being deformed and undersize. The seat is elongated and rectangular instead of almost square, the shape of the armoured backrest is incorrect (it was perfect in their I-

15bis and I-16 kits), the dashboard is about half the size it should be. The good news is that none of that is seen even a little bit unless you opt for opening the side doors. It is hard to blame ICM for other omissions in the cockpit, like the throttle control, machine guns etc. For this build I left most of the parts as they were adding only the straps, a few visible levers and the throttle control (which is not really noticeable, but I know it is there). The much more unpleasant omissions are the complete lack of any trace of exhaust pipes and the gunsight. Overall, after referral to various publications, it seems that ICM used Maslov’s line drawings as the base for their kit. It is a very commendable choice as this set is considered the best available (but not perfect, of course). The kit parts correspond to the plans very well, both dimensionally and in shape. There are some minor omissions and deviations (some of them are

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REVIEWS

mentioned below) but overall the impression is favourable. The biggest and most noticeable mistake is the shape of the carburettor intake on the top of the cowling. The shape of the cowling intake shows that the easiest way forward with this kit is to build an early I-153 with the M-62 engine (yes, there were more than one modification of the I153), hence only option 1 and possibly 2 from the decal sheet could be utilized. At this point I checked the word count on this review and it seemed I had already used two thirds of the allocation, thus I will not go into the smaller details of the building process, but just concentrate on improvements that could be done while building this kit to improve its accuracy and bring it to 'modern standards': • Correct the shape of the wheel wells – they are not supposed to be 'perfect circles' as most of the kit producers would make you believe. • While you are taking care of the wheel wells, it is the best time to correct the underside of the centre plane section – it is a little bit too pronounced and needs to be flattened. This particular operation is the most challenging 'surgery' part required for this kit. • Correct the shape and the size of the carburettor intake. On the kit it is too small and too angular. • Drill out or replace the exhaust stubs on the fuselage (on this model I drilled the appropriate holes, however on my next I-153 model I will most likely opt for a replacement). While the drill is

Most of the things that are to be “ added are not hard to master with a rather moderate set of skills ”

•

•

•

• •

out, it makes sense to use for opening the channel for the elevators' axle on the hinge line of the rudder, and two illumination ports on the pilot’s dashboard. Scratch build a new pitot tube and the fairing for it. It is not particularly difficult; I made mine from a piece of steel tube and lead foil. Scratch build a new windshield. Much more challenging than the above undertaking and, I believe, the aftermarket producers will do a great service to us by providing this part in clear plastic film. Scratch build the gunsight or alternatively use an aftermarket replacement (as far as I know North Star already produces one, but it is relatively rare). Scratch build the exhaust stubs on the cowling. The undercarriage doors would also require attention – the inner ones lack prominent internal detail and their thickness would not look out of place if they were armour slabs on a battleship. Although their shape is correct I chose to build mine from scratch using the kit offerings as a pattern.

The covers on the wheels are much better but lack the noticeable curve, which can be carefully added by applying pressure. • Reshape the propeller blades, so they look like the ones of VFSh (or replace them with the ones from ICM’s earlier kits) • Then finally, remove all the traces of the weapon pylons attachment points as they did not exist on early Chaikas. It is up to an individual modeller to decide how much more should be added to the prescription listed above. Provided you have made these corrections you will end up with a decent and acceptably accurate model of an early I-153 with M-62 engine. If you decide to venture further and build a later version with an M-63, then you will have to add to the list of corrections the following: • Replace the front panel of the cowling as the later production I153 had larger and differently shaped ventilation openings. • Replicate the panels and holders for the landing flares system (it was installed from 1940 on all I15s and I-153s so can be also

applied for most of the M-62 equipped I-153s • Some of the later I-153s had a noticeable rectangular bulge on the port side aft of the cowl to accommodate the larger oil tank, so attention will be required with referral to the photos of the prototype. • Depending upon the chosen payload, rework the undersides of the lower wing (the rocketequipped I-153 had parts of the lower surfaces of the wings shielded with plywood, hence on the model the rib details will have to be removed). More work, of course, but not entirely impossible. A few notes for the modeller – as with some other biplanes of that era, the I-153’s structure was tightened by bands, not wire, so additional care will be required choosing the medium. Also, the rigging attachment points were usually covered by spoilers (well represented on ICM's earlier kits of the I-15bis) but not on this one … these will have to be fashioned by the modeller. Luckily for my particular build, the aircraft I tried to depict did not have these spoilers. I will tackle this challenge in my next attempt at an I-153. The verdict. Here I just wanted to make sure that no one is scared away by the numerous referrals to scratch building. Most of the things that are to be added are not hard to master with a rather moderate set of skills (and I am sure in the nearest future they will be addressed by aftermarket producers). The best vote a modeller can make in favour of the kit is the one with his/her wallet. I personally am after a 'second helping' and will be buying more than one of these I-153 kits.

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REVIEWS

DEKNO 1/72

Stinson SR-9C Reliant By Bruce Leyland-Jones ekno is a Spanish company, specialising in resin, 1/72 kits of aircraft from the Golden Age of aviation. They have over the years produced a somewhat esoteric selection of subjects from the 1920s and 30s and, whilst they usually require a little basic modelling work, they rarely disappoint. The Stinson Reliant is one of their latest offerings and represents the popular single-engine, four to fiveseat high-wing monoplane of the 1930s. Manufactured by the Stinson Aircraft Division of the Aviation Manufacturing Corporation of Wayne, Michigan, this aircraft was fitted with a wide variety of engines. The Reliant, as it’s name suggests, was popular with both military and civil operators, being simple to fly and easy to maintain. The kit arrives in a sturdy box, with individual resin pieces, carefully bagged. Detail is a combination of finely engraved lines and some raised details, cast in a blue resin. Surface textures of metal and stretched fabric are nicely represented. Decals are nicely printed and in perfect register and the instruction sheet is basic, but adequate. No casting flaws were evident,

D

MANUFACTURER: Dekno

TECH

PRODUCT NUMBER: 720500/501 SCALE: 1/72 TYPE: Resin STATUS: New Tool PANEL LINES: Recessed PARTS: 38 Resin 4 Clear

although some flash was present and, I must confess, on first look, the engine wasn’t the prettiest piece of resin I’d seen. Nice colour plans are provided, although colours are given as generic titles, such as “International Orange” and “Insignia Blue”. You’ll need to browse the ol’ Internet for colour imagery of the interior but, fortunately, this popular little plane does have lots of images to look at. For the sake of this review, I was

blessed with two kits to play with, one for an aircraft of the Texaco Oil Company and another, serving as a route-surveyor for American Airlines. The interior is cleanly cast and awaiting the addition of seats and paint. The exterior, as mentioned, had some flash over the openings, but this was easy enough to remove with a sharp blade. It's worth noting at this stage the nice, deep inserts for the tailplanes and main struts.

Nice colour plans are provided, “ although colours are given as generic titles, such as “International Orange” and “Insignia Blue

”

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SCALE AVIATION MODELLER INTERNATIONAL

Whilst the larger pieces were fine, the smaller detailed pieces were less so and proved to be very fragile. Whilst by no means a Modelling Expert, I am usually careful enough to be able to separate fine resin pieces from their pouring blocks. Not this time, unfortunately, and only one of the control wheels survived the process, although I did manage to repair another. “Oh, what a pest” I said, quietly to myself! The cat kept its distance. Never mind, eh? Into the Spares Box and out came a pair of wheels and, following a swift use of minidrill and files, I manage to create a substitute pair and all was well again in the Modelling Man Cave. To save myself some masking later, I decided to slap some paint on, before adding the cabin windows. These windows were pressed into acetate sheet and then intended to be pressed into their respective openings. However, whilst the right size for the window holes, they weren’t deep enough to

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REVIEWS

sit flush with the fuselage sides and I decided to discard these and to add my own glazing later, using Microscale Kristal Klear or a similar product. With some paint and the nicely cast seating, the interior was good enough and I was a happy bunny. Oh…and lest I forget, before I added the seating, I did give the mating surfaces of the fuselage halves a quick once-over with sandpaper, to ensure a nice, flush fit. The large wing pieces received the same treatment and I was very

pleased with the fit of the tail and main wing struts, each fitting snugly into their provided recesses. The fit of the undercarriage was equally pleasing and my brushes were beginning to agitate for some paint. As I have previously mentioned, at first glance the engine piece was not the best example of resin casting I have seen. That said, once I’d spent some time cleaning it up, it

I was most chuffed with the end results “and happy with my pair of Stinsons ” painted up well enough and, given it was about to be buried within a cowling, I found it to be more than good enough. For the painting and after some trial and error, I found my best red for the Texaco aircraft was Humbrol

H60, with a gloss coat for decalling, and my American Airways received Humbrol H15. Humbrol 82 was a good match for the orange of the decals. At this point, I think it's worth offering some ideas about the windscreen transparencies. These are presented as 3D structures and the instructions seem to suggest that, having assembled the model, the windscreen can be simply pushed into place. This is not possible, because of the cast resin framing. On reflection, I could have tried to insert the piece from the inside, before joining the fuselage halves together, but again, I believe that those resin frames would have interfered with the fit. In the end, I managed to fit my windscreens by removing the resin frames and carefully inserting the pieces in, from the front. The decals, by and large, behaved well enough, although I had to use a lot of Micro Sol to encourage the cowling decals to sit down close against the bumps. I was most chuffed with the end results and happy with my pair of Stinsons. On reflection, given the lack of visibility of the interior, I could have fretted less over the control wheels and I’d like to reconsider my application of the windscreens. That said, looking at my finished articles…Smart!

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REVIEWS

MICRO-MIR 1/72

Soviet Experimental Fighter Moskalev Sam-13.1 By Clive Duckworth he Sam-13 was a Soviet experimental fighter completed in 1940 but the project was abandoned and the prototype aircraft destroyed following the German invasion in 1941. Development had begun in 1936 and centred around 2 MV6 six cylinder in line engines at the front and the rear of the fuselage which each produced 270hp, powering the aircraft to a respectable 560km/h. The airframe weighed only 754kg and was of all wooden construction which was necessary due to the low engine power output. It had a short flat sided fuselage and an unusual twin tail boom assembly with a single central fin and small, sharply tapering wings. Armament included 2 synchronised ShKAS machine guns in the fuselage and a further pair in the wings. The kit comes in a top opening box with a stylised illustration of the plane emphasising its stubby compact shape. Inside there are 2 grey plastic sprues holding 36 parts, a single piece clear canopy, a small brass photo etch sheet with 7 pieces for engine intakes plus the seat belt,

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MANUFACTURER: Micro Mir

TECH

PRODUCT NUMBER 72-004 SCALE 1/72 TYPE Injection moulded + PE STATUS New Tool PANEL LINES Recessed PARTS 36 plastic 1 Clear 7 PE

and a decal sheet with just 2 items. Instructions are on a folded A4 sheet and include a description of the aircraft history, 5 easy to follow build sequences, and a colour diagram showing the port side and top views. There is also a numbered parts diagram which is useful as the plastic parts have no numbers on the sprue. The parts are well moulded with only a small amount of flash on a few pieces, and generally fit well, although I found the rear section of the fuselage was slightly distorted. Most of the parts are butt jointed with only locating

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comes in a top opening box with “ Theakitstylised illustration of the plane emphasising its stubby compact shape ” holes for the undercarriage and pitot tube, but everything generally went together OK requiring only minimal sanding or easing.

Construction I started by with attaching the 5 nicely detailed brass seat belt straps to the seat which is then fitted into the floor sections of the cockpit with the joystick. The instructions then illustrate the fuselage sections to be closed up but as I wanted to avoid the kit being a tail sitter I stopped to think how this could be achieved. There is space for weight in the nose section but I had no idea at that stage how much would be

required without overloading the flimsy front undercarriage leg. However by looking ahead in the construction I could see a way to accurately solve the problem and so was able to fix the fuselage together and leave the nose weight issue to later on. The 2 piece wing sections are next these are just butt joined to the fuselage and are followed by the engine exhausts and brass air intakes. The following stage shows the canopy to be fitted, plus both engine radiator cowlings, propellers and spinners to be attached. Note there is no provision for rotating props. However it was here that I had seen how to sort the nose weight issue so I temporarily left off the cowling and prop for the front engine and proceeded to the next stage of assembly for the tail section and undercarriage. I also omitted the canopy until the very end to avoid the risk of spoiling it with sticky fingers. The twin tail booms fit to the rear of the wings and to the one piece horizontal stabiliser and this proved to be bit tricky to ensure alignment. The booms loosely fit into holes in the wings and have cut out sections for attachment to the tail section, but a little easing work was required on these joints to ensure a satisfactory fit. Once these had set firm the upper and lower fin

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F6F HELLCAT MDF 25

he Grumman F6F Hellcat was an iconic, American designed carrier-based fighter, originally designed to replace the F4F ‘Wildcat’ in US Navy service. The Hellcat competed with the faster Vought F4U for use as a carrier based fighter, however, the Corsair had significant issues with carrier landings, which the Hellcat did not, allowing the Hellcat to become the Navy's dominant fighter in the second part of World War II, a position it did not relinquish lightly. The Corsair instead was primarily deployed to great effect in land-based use by the US Marine Corps. Although the F6F resembled the Wildcat in some ways, it was a completely new design and was powered by a 2,000hp Pratt & Whitney R-2800 engine; the same powerplant

25

F6F HELLCAT

+£3.00 P&P

used for both the aforementioned Corsair and the USAAF’s Republic P-47 Thunderbolt, leading some military observers to tag the Hellcat as the ‘Wildcat's big brother’.

By Thomas M Cleaver Colour Profiles By Jim Laurier

M DF

£19.99

T BER OU M

MDF 25

F6F HELLCAT

VE NO

THE GRUMMAN

The F6F is probably best known for its role as a rugged, welldesigned carrier fighter, which was able, after its combat debut in early 1943, to counter the Mitsubishi A6M, and help secure air superiority in the Pacific Theatre. Such was the quality of the basic simple, straightforward design, that the Hellcat was the least modified fighter of the War and were credited with destroying 5,223 aircraft while in service with the US Navy, US Marine Corps and the Royal Navy’s Fleet Air Arm, more than any other Allied naval aircraft. The French Aéronavale was also equipped with F6F-5 Hellcats and used them in Indochina, and the Uruguayan Navy also used them until the early 1960s. The F6F-5 also gained fame as the first aircraft used by the US Navy's ‘Blue Angels’ flight demonstration team at its formation in 1946. So presented here is one of the US Navy’s most powerful and enduring aircraft – the Grumman F6F Hellcat.

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pieces were added. The undercarriage was fairly straightforward with the main wheels attaching to a one piece oleo strut and a two piece cover door and just an additional strut for the nose wheel with a one piece door. Once everything had set solidly I was able to accurately judge the amount of nose weight required by balancing pieces of lead on the top of the front fuselage. Surprisingly it needed just over 1g to keep the tail up and having seen there was enough space I cut out the front of the engine bulkhead, inserted the weight and some Plasticine to keep it in place, and then just fitted the front engine radiator cowling which entirely covered the hole I had made. The propeller, spinner, cockpit canopy and pitot tube were then fitted completing the build. Note no machine guns are included or detailed in the model.

were brush painted on, giving each 2 coats. Other parts were variously painted prior to assembly notably the cockpit, seat and belts plus the wheels and undercarriage. The tyres were painted with Humbrol 32 dark grey, the seat belts had a coat of red leather and the propeller blades were painted silver using Humbrol 11. Once dry I glossed over with 2 coats of Humbrol Clear to reduce silvering from the decals and as stated the decal sheet has only 2 pieces stating ‘SAM 13’, which affix to either side of the fuselage. These are thin, well printed and easily slide into place without the need for softener. Once

dry I applied a thinned dark grey wash to pick out the panel lines and then painted over with Humbrol matt cote. The canopy had a light brush of Humbrol Clear to enhance its clarity.

Conclusion This is a nice little model of an unusual aircraft and it was fairly easy and fun to build. The

instructions are simple to follow and by using a bit of planning and basic techniques you can get a great looking model. The box advises the kit is for age 14+ which probably due to the need for superglue for the brass parts, but apart from that caution I would recommend the kit to all skill ability and interests.

This is a nice little model of an unusual “aircraft and it was fairly easy and fun to build ”

Painting and Decals No references are given for painting and colours are described as pale grey for the fuselage, vertical fin and tail booms, and blue for the wings and horizontal stabilisers. I used Humbrol 64 light grey and Humbrol 157 azure blue which I think look fairly accurate, and these

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ITALERI 1/144

ATR-42-500 By Peter Stott he ATR (Aerei da Transporto Regionale or Avions de Transport Regional) is a twinturboprop regional airliner developed jointly by France and Italy. The '42' refers to the seating capacity which can vary from 40 to 52. The aircraft's first flight was on the 16th August 1984 and it entered service on Dec 3rd 1985. A total of 436 had been built up until the end of 2014. The subject of this kit, the ATR-42-500, is the current production version. For those wishing to learn more about the aircraft, there is plenty of information on the Internet. For those already 'in the know', I won't bore you any longer, on with the kit.

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The Kit The kit comes in Italeri's usual end opening box, contained within are two white plastic sprues, a clear sprue and a stand moulded in black plastic. The main airframe components have recessed panel lines which are on the heavy side and are a little shaky in places. Very minimal amounts of flash were present and only on the smaller parts. The clear sprue has both cabin and cockpit windows included, like the Airfix airliners of old. The cockpit glazing is on the thick side with very prominent MANUFACTURER: Italeri

TECH

PRODUCT NUMBER: IT1801 SCALE: 1/144 TYPE: Injection moulded STATUS: New Tool PANEL LINES: Recessed PARTS: Plastic 59 Clear 6

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frames. Nice touches are the navigation lights and the aft fuselage lens. The rather disappointing (in my opinion) decal sheet, although superbly printed by Cartograf, has 3 options: • 1 'Surveyor' Guardia Costiera, Roma Ciampino 2011 • 2 'Surveyor' Guardia Di Finanza Di Mare 2014 • 3 'Aeromar' Mexico City 2015 Considering the number of operators of this aircraft worldwide I would have thought the inclusion of some of the more well-known operators would have broadened the appeal of this kit. As luck would have it our kindly Editor included a set of BOA Eurolot decals for me to review at the same time, and I had no hesitation in using these. The instruction sheet is the computergenerated type similar to that found in the newer Airfix kits. There are colour call-outs throughout , specifying the colour names, F.S. codes and Italeri's own paint No's.

undercarriage bays, only minimal sanding being required for a good fit. The windscreen was masked and also proved to be an excellent fit. I added a 5gm weight under the cockpit floor, though there is no mention in the instructions and maybe this kit doesn't need it. I played it safe as I didn't want a tail sitter. The fuselage halves were joined, and a small step underneath was filled and sanded and it was time to move on. The wings are in three pieces, a top and two lowers. The trailing edges are very thick and needed sanding down to scale thickness. I elected to fit the top to the fuselage, then the lowers as this achieved a better fit. Before the lower wings are added, the rather nice exhaust pipes must be fitted into the engine cowls. These are hollow and warrant careful painting and masking at this point, trying to paint them later as I did is difficult. Once joined the wings only needed a light smear of filler. The flap track fairings were fitted presenting no problems. The engines consist of two halves with a boss for the props, these fitted together well but left a small step when married up to the wing. I left the tailplanes off until post decaling for obvious reasons and It was at this point that I needed to know if it was worth continuing with the windows, as I had my doubts. I had the BOA decals to fall back on if not. I prepped the model for painting, filling and sanding where required. Halfords white primer was decanted into my Iwata air brush

Would I buy “ another one? I

would have to say yes

The Build My initial build of this kit was to be as Italeri intended, with cabin windows and cockpit glazing. The results were not too good, more on this later as the build progresses. A cockpit interior is provided, with seats, consoles etc, but a trial fit with the windscreen in place revealed none of it could be seen so on my model the interior was sprayed grey and left at that. The cabin windows were masked with Maskol , then fitted along with the flight deck and

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”

and sprayed a number of light coats to hide the deep panel lines and left to dry for 24 hours. This was gently polished with Scotchbrite, then several coats of decanted Halfords clear lacquer were airbrushed on to a gloss finish. The unmasking confirmed my doubts as paint had seeped around the cabin windows and they had lost their definition. If I had sealed them with PVA this probably wouldn't have happened but it was too late now. The cockpit glazing just didn't look right either. I had given it my best shot but there was no other course of action but to attack with Perfect Plastic Putty. This filler is easy to use and dries fast, post-filling everything was sanded and polished which took a few hours because constant touching up was required. The paint process was repeated and set aside to dry; due to the amount of paint and polishing the look of the panel lines was vastly improved. Time to move on. The propellers are very nicely produced as one unit integral with the spinner. They have very slight moulding marks on the blades but this is easily removed by gently scraping with a craft knife. The wheels and undercarriage legs are decent with only very slight flash, again easily removed with a craft knife. The legs themselves are mounted on a square base which looks naff but ensures positive location and is a tight fit into the holes in the bays. The nose leg, which has the landing lights integral to it, is a good positive fit. Looking at the instructions I was dreading fitting the undercarriage doors as they looked incredibly fiddly, but a trial fit proved this NOT to be the case and was a pleasant surprise.

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REVIEWS

Paint and Decals

Final Assembly

As the airframe was already painted the next challenge was decaling. The BOA Decals are for an attractive Eurolot example, are superbly printed and the sheet is very comprehensive. There are a multitude of stencils included, even tiny ones for the props. These decals take only a few seconds to lift from the backing paper which speeds things up no end. The window and windscreen decals were floated into position first, they are very thin yet durable and settled down without any decal solution. The next application was the rather large graphic for the fin; I had been dreading this task but my fears were unfounded, they slid into position without tearing and settled down reasonably well, a few pricks with a pin and some Micro Sol brushed on drew them down snugly. One criticism is that they need to be wider as they didn't meet, I will revisit them later when I can find a good paint match. I also failed to notice that the Italeri door outlines are larger than the Boa decals and I should have filled these too. The remainder of the decals presented no problems that patience wouldn’t solve. The decal process took several hours over a couple of nights due to the number of separate items. I had a couple curl up due to my carelessness, but they were easily recovered by floating in water for a while. I reached a point where I stopped applying the stencils, the model was starting to look too cluttered, and maybe it’s a scale thing? The ATR logo missing from the starboard side of the fin simply vanished shortly after application ... the work of the shed goblin perhaps?? The tyres were painted with Lifecolor Panzergrau having mounted the wheels on a cocktail stick then spun in a multi tool. The props were airbrushed Humbrol Gloss Yellow and when dry, masked and airbrushed with Lifecolor Satin Black. Finally the exhausts were painted Panzergrau with a 10/0 brush and dry brushed with silver.

The undercarriage doors have to be fitted before the main units; dry fitting is essential to get an idea of the angles to ensure correct positioning. The doors all fitted well with only minimal trimming but that could have been down to the amount of paint applied. The nose gear doors are very nicely done if a little thick. The wheel fit was good and the model was allowed to stand on them for the first time. The navigation lights were drilled with a micro drill and the bores filled with red and green paint. These were then fitted to the wings using PVA, as was the tail lens and again a good fit. The tailplanes were pushed in with a small dab of glue. It was only at this stage that I noticed a pair of small winglets that needed fitting (I must read through the instructions more thoroughly) but luckily they fitted OK with a dab of superglue .The propellers were pushed into place and ''voila' an ATR-42-500

Conclusion I really enjoyed building this little airliner and don’t want to be too harsh on it, however, it isn't a state-of-the-art kit and commands a hefty price tag in the UK (around £23) even if a stand is provided. It has some nice features but is let down by heavy and in some places uneven panel lines, but it does go together well and looks the part when completed. Would I buy another one? I would have to say yes ... if they reduced the price! Recommended to all those with deep pockets! I would rate BOA decals as 5*, they are inexpensive at around £5 in the UK, easy to apply and look fantastic. Just be quick once they hit the water. A special thanks to Queensryche, Van Halen and Whitesnake for their support throughout this build. No floor polish was used in the building of this kit. Thanks to Italeri and the Hobby Company for supplying the kit and BOA Decals for the review sample.

The ATR is a twin-turboprop “regional airliner developed jointly by France and Italy ”

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REVIEWS

REVIEW

special!

SPECIAL HOBBY 1/72

Folland Gnat F.1

This is a very interesting and accurate “model of the Gnat F.1, a small kit with a large amount of internal and external surface detail

”

By Carmel J. Attard

W

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MANUFACTURER: Special Hobby PRODUCT NUMBER: SH72137

TECH

hen back in 1950 the aircraft designer W E Petter who is famous for such designs as the Lysander, Whirlwind and Canberra, joined the Folland Company he chose to design this new jet aircraft to the smallest overall dimensions possible. The very basic equipment required for the job kept the total cost down to a third of that of a standard jet fighter bomber of the day. Yet it still offered similar performances to those much bigger and more expensive jets. The design incorporated a pilot lying in prone position in the nose and a single British Orpheus engine instead of his original twin-engine configuration. The test aircraft was designated Fo.139 Midget that had been designed and built to assess the aerodynamic features of the future Gnat. The Air Ministry ordered 8 aircraft off the drawing board

SCALE: 1/72 MAKE: Special Hobby TYPE: Injection moulded STATUS: New Tool PANEL LINES: Recessed

during March 1955 and the first prototype known as the Fo.145 made its maiden flight on the 18th June 1955. All 6 development aircraft were delivered by 1956 and they undertook a very thorough set of flight tests during which the design displayed excellent performance. It was found to be capable of high sub-sonic speeds, exceptionally manoeuvrable at high speed and had phenomenal acceleration in view of its low weight and powerful engine. Two countries, Finland and India, showed keen interest following trials and they decided to acquire the type for their Air Forces. Finland ordered 12, 10 of which were of

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standard fighter configuration with Finnish serial numbers GN101 to GN112, while two machines were adopted to carry out reconnaissance missions with three Vinten cameras fitted in the nose. One received the serial number GN112, and the other GN113. The Finnish Gnats were delivered

between late 1955 and early 1960 and equipped HavLr 11 at Lvonetjarvi. India ordered 25 complete machines of British origin while another 20 were provided in kit form to be assembled in India by HAL at Bangalore where eventually HAL also acquired a licence to

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REVIEWS manufacture the Gnat in India. These were construction numbers GT001-GT020. Indian production turned out 195 airframes, the last two Indian Gnats being prototypes of the improved Ajeet Mk 1 version. 79 Ajeets were eventually produced with another 10 Ajeets being created using modified Gnat airframes. The total number of Gnats assembled in India was 213 aircraft. The Gnats that were wholly built in India were serial numbers IE1205-IE1258, E201-E325, and E1069-E1082. When full production got under way during 1963 there was an average rate of 2 aircraft per month. Gnats saw action during the 1965 India-Pakistan conflict that centred in the region of Kashmir. They proved to be the most effective combat type of the war and were capable of not only outmanoeuvring the F-86 Sabre but also the more modern and faster F-104 Starfighter. The tiny Gnat's diminutive size and manoeuvrability helped its ability to shake off Sidewinder air-to-air missiles and it was also hard for the Pakistani pilots to catch sight of, let alone shoot down the aircraft. Indian Gnats continued to prove just as successful during the later conflicts that ended in 1971. The improved Ajeet remained in Indian service long after the Gnats were retired and these continued to serve until at least 1991. Indian Gnats also flew escort missions for IAF Mystêre IVAs and Canberras. The Indian fighter became known as the “Sabre Slayer”. However, the formidable Sabre which was known to be a good dog-fighter in its own right shot down several Gnats. Two Gnats were also used by the Yugoslav AF for evaluation

acquiring serials Nos. 11601 and 11602 but no further machines were ordered. The Gnat F.1 fighter was never adopted for the RAF, however the 2-seat trainer version evolved and proved to be very popular with the RAF. Having a cockpit too small for certain pupil pilots, the 2-seat Hunter was retained for such crews.

The Kit This is a very interesting and accurate model of the Gnat F.1, a small kit with a large amount of internal and external surface detail. All of the kit parts, clear parts and decals come in sealed separate bags. There are 4 runners in total. The colourful instructions, A5 size, consist of 8 pages written in both Czech and English language. There are seven stages of construction and a small table indicating the Gunze colour numbers for the paint to use, with the Humbrol equivalent also

For Open Cockpit

For Close Cockpit

plastic parts have fine and not too “ Thedeeply recessed panel lines ” indicated. There are four full pages containing 4-view plans in colour showing camouflage pattern variations and decal placement for each of the four decal options, two Finnish and two Yugoslav Air Force machines. The camouflage is mostly dark green and dark sea grey topsides with aluminium undersides. Interesting to note here is that one of the Yugoslav machines has dove blue grey in place of the dark sea grey and the undersides are light blue grey in place of the aluminium finish.

Construction The first thing that one notices when starting to build the model is that there are two frets, B and C, where there are 31 parts not for use. These are clearly marked in red “X” markings on the instructions. These include two different types of rocket pods, a pair of different underwing tanks, two 500lb bombs, and all the pylons for the type of load you choose. More interesting are the three sets of kit noses. These are without doubt different nose shapes used on such types as the PR version of the Gnat, the FR.1 used by the Finnish Air Force, and also the type of nose that was adopted on Hindustan built Gnat F.1 as used by the Indian Air Force Operational Conversion unit. There is also another nose as adopted on the F.1 Gnats of the Ministry of Supply

(U.K). These are good reasons to make me believe that reboxings of the same kit for Gnats in different markings and configurations will be released over the next few months. The plastic parts have fine and not too deeply recessed panel lines. The assembly sequence starts with assembly of the cockpit interior parts where there is a choice of two instrument panel,s practically identical except for the slight variation of the 6-part decals which feature the instruments. All the tiny items including aiming sight, control column and rear bulkhead attach to the cockpit base. The instructions show these as dark grey with possibly lighter shades of grey for contrast. Two tiny side console detail parts are also added to the fuselage side panels. The interior engine parts are painted burnt metal and slotted into each other to form the jet engine with all its interior detail, though the duct is fairly narrow. This is inserted in place at the rear of one fuselage half. The part forming the nose wheel well is also inserted in the nose area and the complete cockpit tub now rests on it, and you can now join the fuselage halves together. The delicate wings are nicely moulded having the thicker central section partly moulded as a separate panel, and each fits perfectly into its respective space

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REVIEWS

I really hope we shall see more Gnat “ fighters reboxed with different markings in the near future ”

inside the wings. I replaced the long wing pitot with one made from metal which was slightly thinner. This metal replacement is also more rigid, less prone to breakage as well as appearing closer in scale. The nose cone is a separate 2-part piece into which I added the nose weight as indicated in the kit instructions, but I also added a circular plastic card blanking wall so that any loose balance weight would not pass into the cockpit once the cone was attached to the fuselage. I should add that as the PR nose parts are in the not-for-use parts you could use this and alter the Finish option serial number to GN-112 or GN-113. The next stage deals with adding the wing pylons and armament if required. There are three pairs of yellow painted rocket projectiles to fit under each wing as well as the

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standard underwing tanks. There is also a half-inch fuselage spine part that is slightly deeper to go on the rocket armed version. This separate item will fit in place of the existing rear spine and some surgery is required here to remove the part and replace it with the deeper one. The nine parts forming the undercarriage doors and door detail parts and main landing gear are also fitted at this stage, but you can leave the wheels off and add them at the final stage. One other option that comes with this fine model is the choice of having the cockpit closed or open, for which separate clear parts are provided. Perhaps unique for this particular aircraft type is the fact that the cockpit canopy is a clamshell type opening so that it leaves only the central part of the windscreen in place while all the rest including the sides of the windscreen will lift up - hence the reason why the canopy for the open option comes in two separate parts. For those wishing to close the cockpit there is a separate canopy with the rear hinge moulded level with the fuselage top. The ejection seat comes as a sixpart item, the only downside is that it is missing seat belts and most may want to produce some from masking tape or aftermarket brass rather than leave them out. In my

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case I decided to add a crew figure which had the seat belts moulded on. There is an aerial located under the port air intake side which although it is left out from the otherwise fine box art painting picture, should in fact be added as indicated in the colour plans. After twice breaking it off I replaced this plastic part with a tapered metal pin.

Painting and Markings In view of the small size and lots of paintwork required, masking the kit at the different stages of painting took much of the time to complete the model. I used Humbrol dark green 108 and an old pot of Humbrol sea grey HX4 enamel paints for the top camouflage. After masking the upper camouflage the underside was airbrushed silver with 10% gloss lacquer by volume. It should be noted that the camouflage overlaps on the underside of all wing and tailplane leading edges and these must be masked before the silver is applied to the undersides. Other areas at fin tip, nose cone front and part of the fuselage spine were now painted black before I brush on a coat of Future in preparation for decal application. The decal sheet is superb, providing markings for two Finnish and two Yugoslav Gnats. There

were a lot of decals to go on the airframe and tanks. My choice fell on Folland Gnat F.1, GN-101 Kreivi von Rosen (Count von Rosen), HavLv 11/HamLsto, Ilmovoimat (Finnish Air Force) Luonetjarvi, summer 1971. This was the first Gnat to be delivered to the Finnish Air Force on June 30th 1958. The decals only required 3 seconds immersed in water to soften and part from the backing sheet, so be careful to retain the decal on the backing paper to help transfer it to the place where it is required. Finally the model was given an overall coat of satin sheen and then the wheels added to their respective legs.

Conclusion I was very impressed with the fit of parts, the precision engineering applied in the making to such close tolerances make this a little marvel. It was not a quick build in spite of the size of the model, mainly due to the time consuming painting and masking. I really hope we shall see more Gnat fighters reboxed with different markings in the near future. Finally I consider that the small parts and precise fit require a moderately skilled modeller. My thanks to Special Hobby for allowing me the opportunity to build this model.

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REVIEWS

REVIEW

special!

I am a little surprised that the “ruggedly adaptable Twin Otter isn’t a more popular choice for kit manufacturers

”

REVELL 1/72

DHC-6 Twin Otter

T

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NOVEMBER 2015 •

KIT NO: 04901 PANEL LINES: Raised

TECH

By Toni Hausler he Matchbox Twin Otter has been with us for a few decades now, and has most recently been resurrected – again – by Revell. I am a little surprised that the ruggedly adaptable Twin Otter isn’t a more popular choice for kit manufacturers, given the number of roles in which the aircraft has found itself across

SCALE: 1/72

the world, but credit to Revell for keeping the kit going. Apart from a new set of decals, the kit itself remains largely unchanged, and the well-used mould is starting to show its years. The moulding is relatively clean, but small sink marks are rife and some parts don’t fit quite as neatly as they used to. This is most definitely a kit for which you should have a pot of

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STATUS: Reissue TYPE: Injection Moulded Plastic PARTS: 84 + 18 clear DECAL OPTIONS: 2 MANUFACTURER: Revell

filler handy! However, the overall shape is sound and there are no real head-scratching moments when it comes to actually putting the pieces together. The kit provides ordinary fixed-gear wheeled landing gear, skis (of the type which fit over the wheels) or floats, as well as two different nose cones, so there is scope to build several variants. Panel lines are raised but minimal, and the cabin is an empty cavern. Since it was clear that merely building the kit from the box was already going to be more of a restoration job, I decided to go a little further and see if I could flex my stunted scratch building muscles at the same time… The decals as supplied cater for a Canadian Air Force rescue machine in handsome yellow – a scheme which has been with us since the kit was first issued by Matchbox! – or a somewhat more staid East Coast Airways scheme in all-over white with a dark blue tail. Having recently sampled Revell’s latest excellent decals on a different kit, I’m pretty sure that the ones supplied with this Twin Otter will be more than adequate should you want either of

these schemes, but I had had my heart set upon a British Antarctic Survey machine for a long time. Previous incarnations of the kit have covered this option in the past, but it is no longer readily available. However, a quick search of Hannants’ online catalogue turned up a decal sheet by S&M Silk which not only catered for the Twin Otter, but also several other BAS aircraft types used over the years. Problem solved! The aircraft I’d chosen to model – the sole option on S&M’s decal sheet – was VP-FBB. Unfortunately, my trawls around the internet failed to turn up a clear view of its interior. This varies hugely between aircraft depending on how they are set up for a particular sortie, and there doesn’t seem to be a particular standard adopted by the British Antarctic Survey, so I ended up going more for a general impression than accuracy. Purists may therefore find my approach somewhat dubious. The cockpit as provided in the kit consists of seats, instrument panel and control columns. I didn’t add anything further to this, given how little would be visible through the windows anyway, and so swiftly moved on to the first self-imposed challenge – scratch building the cabin. The cabin interior in this case is relatively simple, especially if you’re modelling a cargo variant and thus avoiding the hassle of fabricating

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REVIEWS

Hand picked selection for Summer 2015 NEW TOOL

04869 Focke Wulf Fw190 F-8, 1:32 Limited Edition

seats. The floor was a simple job, using the kit bulkheads as a guide to the width and placement. I cut new bulkheads out of plasticard – which enabled me to cut out the doors at each end more easily – and added some strip styrene along the inner walls to replicate some of the basic interior detail. The plastic netting from a bag of red onions turned out to be a great scale replica of the cargo webbing sometimes used along the cabin walls. The tail compartment in the real Twin Otter has a single-stepped floor, which I considered trying to replicate, but decided it would be too difficult in the time I had available so settled for a simple plasticard platform. This would later be piled high with

cargo to hide the lack of either step or rear bulkhead. The lazy modeller’s solution! After painting the interior and dry-brushing the floor to represent the inevitable scuffing that any cargo aircraft must suffer, I filled it with bits and pieces scavenged from various sources – fuel drums from one kit, a variety of resin boxes from another, and some roughly moulded generic sacks made from Fimo modelling clay. These made the interior look pleasingly busy and helped to distract the eye from the simplicity of the detail. Of course, there was no point having built all this to then shut it away inside the fuselage, so I cut the cargo doors open with a razor saw, to be later reattached in an open position. Closing up the fuselage required a good deal of filler to smooth out the stepped edges, partly, I suspect, due to the addition of the

cockpit as provided in the kit consists of seats, “ Theinstrument panel and control columns ”

04900 B-1B Bomber, 1:48

04997 Concorde, 1:72 NEW TOOL

07008 BMW i8, 1:24 Available from branches of

and all good Toy and Model shops and online at

Visit our brand new website and online shop

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Revell GmbH, Unit 10, Old Airfield Industrial Estate, Cheddington Lane, Tring, HP23 4QR Tel: 0845 459 0747, Fax: 01296 660041, Email: [email protected] ©2015 Revell GmbH. A subsidiary of Hobbico, Inc. All rights reserved. Trade enquiries welcome.

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REVIEWS

During my travels across the “ Internet I’ve come across several examples of miracles worked with the old-but-still-good Twin Otter kit

”

cabin floor which wasn’t an entirely perfect fit. The BAS Twin Otters are of the long-nosed variant, so I used the appropriate nose cone provided in the kit, filling it with lead shot just to be on the safe side in terms of balance. The windscreen may have fit snugly once upon a time, but the edges are slightly worn and there was a gap of nearly a millimetre between the top edge and the fuselage in my kit. This required more fiddly fairing with filler, finishing with a water-based one which could be wiped with a damp cloth in order to minimise sanding. The engine nacelles similarly required a little work to smooth the misaligned edges. All photos of the Twin Otter show the propeller blades in the feathered position when the engines are shut down. The kit moulds them in flight, and while many modellers appear to solve this by twisting them gently to the correct position, my kit had already shed one blade and I was doubtful of the rest, so I ended up leaving them as they were. With the main part of the build completed, and my store of filler sadly depleted, it was time to start

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adding some simple scratchbuilt details to bring the model to life. Wipers made of stretched sprue were glued carefully to the windscreen. The cut-off tip of a ballpoint ink tube made an adequate air scoop alongside the cockpit door, while spare tail lifting handles from a 1/32 Super Cub kit found their niche in life as VOR antennas for the fin. Additional blade aerials were cut from plasticard, sanded to shape and used to garnish the upper fuselage. Not only are the individual BAS Twin Otters slightly different in terms of aerial and external equipment setup, but they have also differed throughout their working lives; so my aim once again was to go for more of an ‘approximate’ look rather than attempt any serious accuracy. The torque link is moulded as a crude triangle directly onto the nose leg. I sliced this off and replaced it with a sliver of folded metal cut from a drinks can, which gave a much more convincing appearance. The skis are heavily riveted, but there is otherwise little detail around the undercarriage. Some stretched sprue was used to add actuators and bracing cables for a little more

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interest. The main gear skis are braced with additional cables attached to the wing; in the interests of actually finishing the kit sometime this year I didn’t include these (nor brake cables), but may add them at a later date. The skis of the real aircraft have doors which allow the wheels to protrude through when required, but these are moulded closed in the kit, so some careful cutting will be required if you want to have your skiequipped aircraft resting on its wheels. The British Antarctic Survey paints its aircraft in a simple but striking scheme – deep red fuselage with gloss black upper sides and glare panel – ideal for high visibility in an icy white environment. The nearest approximation I could find in my paint box was Revell ‘Fiery red’ acrylic applied over a pink enamel undercoat. I could claim that the pink base gives the red topcoat a richer colour, which sounds like an entirely believable bluff to me, but in reality the main reason was that the old paint just needed using up. S&M’s decals for the BAS Twin Otter are very thin, but reasonably durable and beautifully printed. They cater for one aircraft only – VPFBB – with various badges for the nose and tail included. They settled well with nothing more potent than water, and the white text is nicely opaque against the black upper wing. The only gripe I had is that the fine blue trim for the engine nacelles is both transparent and too short, so it shows up black against the red and needs to be touched up to fill in the gaps. An interesting phenomenon came to light while applying the window stencil decals. Since some of the plastic windows had either refused to fit or later fallen out, I had replaced several with ordinary PVA

glue – dabbing the glue around the edges and then stretching it across into a thin sheet using a toothpick. Although beautifully thin and clear once dry, when I applied a wet decal over the window area, the glue immediately turned opaque and softened. After a brief and ineffectual panic, I decided to wait and see what happened. A couple of hours later, the window had returned to its original transparent state and all was well. This is perhaps worth noting for anybody who may use a similar technique for scale windows. I had to restrain my normal enthusiasm for weathering because the BAS aircraft are generally kept very clean. However, there are prominent exhaust stains along both upper and lower surfaces of the wing, along the sides of the engine nacelles and on the underside of the tailplane. The final touch was to add the aerial wires with nylon thread and attach the cargo doors. During my travels across the Internet I’ve come across several examples of miracles worked with the old-but-still-good Twin Otter kit. Its simplicity, and the number of options available in the one kit, make for a wonderful blank canvas which is well catered for by aftermarket decals. It’s also relatively easy to jazz up with the most basic of scratchbuilding skills – perhaps good practice for more advanced projects. Overall it’s a sound kit which appreciates a bit of extra attention. Meanwhile, Airfix is churning out new tools of old classics seemingly every other week. I’ll bet if Revell chose to do the same with the Twin Otter, or any of their other older moulds, they would be very popular indeed...! My thanks to Revell for supplying the review sample which is available from all good toy and model stores. For details visit www.revell.de/en

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MODELLERS PORTFOLIO

Mitsubishi A6M2 EI-111 The paint used on the A6M was J3 “Ash” Grey, due to the addition of anti-corrosive and oxidisation of the paint it could end up with a Caramel tint. EI-111 was involved in the attack on the USS Enterprise in October 1942 during the Battle of Santa Cruz, flown by Lt. Hideki Shingo of the 5th Koku Sentai, operating from the carrier Shokaku

Mitsubishi A6M2 2 II 82 Unlike the standard demarcation line applied to the A6M this A6M2 of a Tsukaba (Training) Kokutai has quite a low and wavy line between the Green and Ash Grey

Mitsubishi A6M2 X-108 Based at Takao, Formosa (now Taiwan) during 1941 the aircraft was flown by Tamotsu Yokoyama of the 3rd Kkutaiand it wears coloured Yellow, Blue and Red bands on the fuselage.

Mitsubishi A6M2 AI-155 AI-155 is painted in all over Ash Grey with Red and Yellow bands it was flown by Lt Cdr. Shigeru Itaya as part of the first wave during the attack on Pearl Harbor.

Colour artwork by Chris Sandham-Bailey/Inkworm www.inkworm.co.uk

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SCALE AVIATION MODELLER INTERNATIONAL

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MODELLERS PORTFOLIO

Mitsubishi A6M2 V-103 During February 1942 the Tianin Kokutai was based in Bali, Indoneisa and V103 was flown by Sgt. Saburo Sakai. Painted in all over Ash Grey with Blue bands

Mitsubishi A6M2 301-139 Operated by the 202nd Kokutai, 301st Hikotai this aircraft was based at Takeshima, Truk (now part of the Federated States of Micronesia). Upper surfaces Green with the underside painted Ash Grey

Mitsubishi A6M2 V-141 Flown by Petty Officer First Class Yoshisuke Arita, V-141 was part of Tainan kokutai during February 1942. All over Ash Grey

Mitsubishi A6M2 170 During Feburary 1944 this aircraft was a part of the Konoike kokutai, painted in all over Green with yellow bands.

Colour artwork by Chris Sandham-Bailey/Inkworm www.inkworm.co.uk

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MODELLERS PORTFOLIO

Mitsubishi A6M2 A1-102 Assigned to the carrier Akagi and painted in all over Ash Grey with Yellow and Red bands AI-102 was flown by Lt. Saburo Shindo during the attack on Pearl Harbor

Mitsubishi A6M2 X-183 To save weight the radio equipment and aerial have been removed from this aircraft of the 23rd Hikotai, 3rd kokutai. The tail has the cherry bolossom kill markings (in Pink) of Pilot 2nd Class Yoshiro Hashiguchi.

Mitsubishi A6M3 01-105 Wearing a roughly applied Green scheme over the Ash Grey some parts of the tail code are heavily obscured. Flown by Hiroyoshi Nishizawa it operated in the Solomon Islands during 1943.

Mitsubishi A6M3 X-151 Flown by Kiyoshi Listopad during November 1942, it was assigned to 202 Kokutai, Kokoku 994. Painted in all over Ash Grey with Black markings and a Red band.

Colour artwork by Chris Sandham-Bailey/Inkworm www.inkworm.co.uk

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MODELLERS PORTFOLIO

Mitsubishi A6M3 188 Upper surfaces are a patchy and irregularly applied Green, 188 flew from the carrier Zuikaku whilst near Rabaul, East New Britain, Papua New Guinea during 1943.

Mitsubishi A6M3 Green + Following the surrender of Japanese forces any aircraft being used for transport purposes were instructed to make sure aircraft were identifiable by being painted in all White and have Green crosses on the fuselage and upper and lower wing. These aircraft include this A6M3 which was extensively photographed by RNZAF forces whilst at Jacquinot Bay, New Britain.

Mitsubishi A6M5 601-131 Following the war a number of Japanese aircraft were abandoned at Atsugi Naval Air Base, Kanagawa, Japan where they were captured by US forces. Among the aircraft was A6M5 601-131 which by this stage was heavily weathered and stained. Painted in Green with Ash Grey underside.

Mitsubishi A6M2 Republic of China Air Force P-5016 A few A6M were acquired and operated by the National Chinese Army following the end of WWII including P-5016. Japanese markings were overpainted and the Naiontalist markings applied in place.

Colour artwork by Chris Sandham-Bailey/Inkworm www.inkworm.co.uk

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MODELLERS PORTFOLIO

1/72 Scale Plans Mitsubishi AM6 Zero Scale Drawings by Chris Sandham-Bailey/Inkworm www.inkworm.co.uk

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MODELLERS PORTFOLIO

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MODELLERS PORTFOLIO

Mitsubishi A6M5 RAF TAIC II Following the war several A6M were evaluated by Allied forces including this one which was stripped down to a NMF finish and flown by the RAF’s Techinical Air Intelligence Centre, RAF Seletar, Singapore, 1945.

Mitsubishi A6M5 RAF ATAIU B-12 Another A6M5 that wore RAF roundels was this one which was tested by the Allied Technical Air Intelligence Unit South East Asia. The cockpit section still survives and is part of the IWM collection and the paint visible is Brown though somewhat faded and weathered.. The fate of the rest of the aircraft is unknown.

Mitsubishi A6M5 RAAF 457 Sqn RAAF acquired this A6M5 from the TAIU and operated this aircraft for some time. Stripped to bare metal with SEA roundels applied to the fuselage and anti glare black on the upper surface forward of the canopy.

Mitsubishi A6M5 US 29 Unlike the plethora of A6M which were tested after the war this A6M5 is rare as it was captured and tested during the war. A photograph shows it in flight on 25th September 1944. The Hinomaru on the fuselage was painted over but interestingly the ones on the wings remained uncovered. Photographs seem to indicate the cover paint had a matt finish.

Colour artwork by Chris Sandham-Bailey/Inkworm www.inkworm.co.uk

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MITSUBISHI A5M-5

1/32

Lights, Camera, Action

ZERO! David Francis builds Tamiya’s 1/32 Light and Sound A6M-5

ave you ever been scared of starting a model, or maybe worried that your skills are not good enough to do an expensive kit justice? Well that is exactly what happened to me when I picked up Tamiya’s ‘Light and Sound’ Zero a few years ago. For those who have not encountered this rare kit before, it takes Tamiya’s 1/32 A6M-5 and adds a bunch of electrics to spin the propeller and to illuminate the navigation lights and the cockpit. However, the really clever part is that you also have a digital recording of a real ‘Sakae’ engine that runs through a sequence from start up, idling, revving and full power, and then an in-built computer chip perfectly synchronises the propeller speed to the sound of the engine!

H

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However, I had two big problems that for some time prevented me from starting this kit. The first was that I knew I would probably never get the chance to build this kit again, and the second was the way the kit is constructed, as it's almost impossible to see if everything is working until right near the end of construction! So the kit sat forlornly on my shelf for over nine years gathering dust, until recently I decided this was silly, and I was probably never going to get any better in my modelling skills - and the only way to find out if the kit works was to actually build it!

Construction It’s a Tamiya kit, so that is all you need to know as it literally just falls together, and as long as you follow the instructions you will not have any major issues. There are a few gimmicks, like the

SCALE AVIATION MODELLER INTERNATIONAL

ability to wind up the undercarriage, but most modellers will ignore these novel-working features. I decided to build my model straightfrom-the-box with only a few additions, although there have been a large number of aftermarket upgrades released for this kit. The cockpit is well detailed with the instrument dials being applied to the rear of the clear parts to good effect. I decided to add some Airscale data plaques and if you look carefully it may just be possible to see that some of these are in German! There is plenty of room to add a lot of extra wiring in the cockpit, and I started to do this but then realised that once you add the pilot figure it would be all but invisible! Tamiya supply a two-part figure which after cleaning up looks OK, but I had been waiting for an excuse to use a the seated saluting pilot that Zoukei Mura had released as part of

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FEATURE

To many people this ‘Real “ Action’ Tamiya kit may sound like a toy - that is until you see one in the flesh

”

their Raiden Sortie Set #SWS05-F02, and a test fit revealed he fitted almost perfectly with just a small amount of work needed on his arm holding the throttle. A bit more drastic was the amputation of his flying boots so he would sit easily in his seat; fortunately this would be invisible once the fuselage was closed up. Now I am no figure modeller, but using the Vallejo Face Painting set I think I gave the pilot quite a good look. However one little touch I added was to paint the eyeballs white and then add a small black dot from a spare decal – specifically a letter ‘i’ to produce the pupil, and once the flesh tones had been added this looked quite effective. The

clothing was painted using various Tamiya shades, followed by a dark wash, and I must admit I was very pleased with the effect. With cockpit complete it was now time to add the first of the electrics into the fuselage, and these screw into place behind the cockpit and include the first of the LED lights that will illuminate the navigation lights and cockpit. This LED is held in place with a plastic collar and to this you attach a fibre optic to carry the light to where it is needed. The exact measurements of these fibre lengths are given but I found it easier to glue them a couple of inches oversize and then trim them back after the painting stage. This also means that you do not have to mask them, as when you cut the

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MITSUBISHI A5M-5

1/32 optical cable flush with the plastic using a sharp cutter. To help ensure that no light is visible where it shouldn’t be, and to give the maximum amount of light at the end of the cable, Tamiya thoughtfully supply some silver adhesive tape to stick over all the lighting components. At this stage you also need add two cables onto the circuit board, one of which carries the power to the engine motor and the second is the main power line, which exits from inside the tail wheel bay and disappears inside the base. Like all the wires in this kit these are fitted with ‘press connectors’ so no soldering is required, but once they are attached they are not designed to be unattached so beware! With the fuselage complete I decided to add an Aires undercarriage bay. Now there is nothing really wrong with the Tamiya one but I just felt the Aires example offered more detail. However, I really wish I had not done this as in reality you can’t see the extra detail as the model is fixed permanently to its base, and also because it created a lot of work when it came to fitting the undercarriage legs! This is mainly because the kit's legs are firmly attached to the model via small screws, which are

fitted prior to joining the wing sections. I decided that I would replace these screws with Albion Hobbies metal rod and attach the legs after the main painting stage. Sadly this was a big mistake, as no matter what I used on the joint between the legs and the bay it proved to be incredibly weak, continually breaking away at the slightest knock, even using two-part epoxy. If I had kept the kit parts and used them as designed by the manufacturer I would have saved myself a lot of heartache – so ‘note to self – think before you leap’. Other than this drama the rest of kit just went together perfectly. The only extra detail I added was to wire up the ignition harness on the engine with thin coloured wire from the Little Cars range. Before adding the engine to the fuselage I had to add the small motor inside the accessory compartment, which would eventually, I hoped, turn the propeller. I replaced the kit's gun barrels and pitot tube with Master Models brass examples #32006 which look far better than the kit items and are also less prone to being damaged. Now with the construction

Like all the wires in “ this kit these are fitted

with ‘press connectors’ so no soldering is required

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”

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FEATURE complete, I could turn my attention to the painting and decaling, and again maybe unwisely I decided to make things hard for myself by trying a new painting technique!

Just Add Salt To clean the model I would normally wash it thoroughly to remove any grease and oil. But obviously with all the electrics in the fuselage this was a non-starter. Instead I moistened a paper towel with Isopropyl Alcohol and gave the model a rub down to clean the surface. Masking was done using Kabuki Tape, and this included the canopies. At this stage I will mention that you do get two sets of canopies in the kit, one clear and one with the frame lines pre-painted. Unfortunately the green used for the frames was very dark and didn’t match the Tamiya IJN Green I was using on the rest of the model, so I went with the unpainted clear parts. I knew all along that I wanted a really heavily weathered finish, as seen in many period photographs. So I decided to try the ‘salt technique’ with sea salt to add a weathered effect. The first stage was to give the model an overall coat of Halfords Aluminium spray paint, and once this had dried the surface of the model was dampened with water and some sea salt was applied. The salt crystals stick to the model and mask

I decided to try the ‘salt “ technique’ with sea salt to add a weathered effect ”

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1/32 the underlying areas from subsequent paint layers. You can then use a small paintbrush to move the salt crystals around or remove them completely as required. For the main colours I airbrushed Tamiya’s IJN Grey XF-70 and Green XF-75 acrylics and the engine cowling was Matt Black with a touch of Blue added. Once the paint had dried, I brushed off the salt to reveal exactly the patchy finish I was aiming for. Now it was time for the decals. I had a copy of an old Eagle Strike sheet #32018, which included an attractive scheme with a lightning bolt across the tail, so this was my choice. Like all Eagle Strike decals these worked well with Micro Sol and Set, and it's well known that while these liquids are doing their work the decals become very soft and easily damaged. However, I used this to my advantage to pick away areas of the decal, especially on the large roundels, to get them to match the weathered appearance on the rest of the model. For the final stage I used the MIG Productions Japanese Weathering Set #7418, which includes three washes to lift out the engraved detail. Finally the model was given a coat of Alclad Matt Varnish to being everything together, before I could finally remove all the masks.

Almost there Normally with the model complete a project would be finished, but not this time, as I had to fix the 'Zero' to the base that contained the speaker system and battery compartment. Once again construction proceeded quickly as everything is prepared for you with most of the parts being held in place by small screws. However, things will go a lot quicker if you use a small crosshead screwdriver that is a touch longer than the one supplied with the kit. Now finally came the big moment when I could actually see if the model worked, and I was amazed when I pressed the button for the first time and the model came to life! This moment can be seen on the Video Channel on our website - just follow the ‘SAMI Portal Link’.

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Now to finish the base I added some Model Scene Grass Matting to cover the speaker grille, which would ultimately have no effect on the sound effects coming from the model. I also added an acrylic nameplate supplied by ‘Name It’ (www.nameitplates.co.uk) entitled ‘The Last Salute’, a tribute to both this final variant of the Zero and the pilots who at this stage of the war knew that every mission could be their last. The model was then was permanently attached to its base by three screws that go through the base into nuts moulded into the plastic wheels.

Final Thoughts To many people this ‘Real Action’ Tamiya kit may sound like a toy - that is until you see one in the

flesh, and it certainly draws the crowds whenever it is turned on at models shows. Sadly this kit has never been reissued in the UK, although it is still sporadically available from Japanese model shops and on on-line auction sites. Unfortunately this kit was probably not a financial success for Tamiya, as it has never been repeated in their range. This means that my heartfelt wish for something similar with the recording of a Merlin for a Spitfire or P-51 will never happen. If you are at IPMS Scale ModelWorld this year or any of the shows that SAM Publications attend, you will find this kit on our stand – just follow the Sakae engine noise!!!

was amazed when I pressed the “ Ibutton for the first time and the model came to life ”

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Mastered-Adverts-AV-1115_AV-0606 09/10/2015 14:02 Page 1059

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BRISTOL M.1C

1/32

Bristol’s Bullet Building Special Hobby 1/32 Bristol M.1C by Phillip D.C Ware

his project started as an attempt to recreate a photograph of a particular Bristol M.1C in the Windsock Data file No 52 on the Bristol Fighter. It shows an aircraft with its pilot leaning against its side on a muddy airfield, which does not sound that inspiring? But I was drawn to it because painted on the spinner of this particular aircraft was a face looking similar, I thought, to Walt Disney’s Dumbo, a character who was not to appear on the screen until 1941. So with the unusual art on the spinner and the presence of a figure to lend scale, my next project was born which happened to coincide with the release of an all-new multi media M.1C.

T

To start the figure As I really like converting and painting figures this is where I started. I sourced the figure from Tommy’s War's excellent range. I could not find a figure that perfectly matched the image so I started with the Sergeant Pilot figure (TW54017); I had to remove the field cap and create the

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Painted on the spinner of this particular aircraft was a “ face looking similar, I thought, to Walt Disney’s Dumbo ” figure's hairstyle, and I repositioned the right arm to extend it so it was touching the aircraft’s nacelle (originally the figure had both hands on his hips). To extend the arm I had to shave off and recreate the Sergeant's stripes on his arm, not an easy task… I then used a mix of Vallejo and Andrea acrylics to paint the figure. Having carried out the conversion and being pleased with my results I took the figure to club night. It was at this point my first problem with this build arose, I had obtained a good quality print of the original photograph from the Royal Naval Air Museum at Yeovilton and I had placed this next to my figure. One of the club members pointed out that he was able to discern that the pilot was wearing braces in the picture, which were not on my figure. A close inspection of the photograph under magnification showed that that the pilot was actually wearing braces over an undershirt.

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So it was back to the drawing board as though my figure did match the pose it did not match the actual uniform worn in the photograph that I was trying to reproduce and I could not live with that, knowing it was wrong. So I purchased another more representative figure from the Tommy’s War range, this time the Royal Artillery Gunnery Sergeant (TW54003) who fitted the bill once the

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FEATURE

moulded bandolier was removed and his arm repositioned. So with the figure done for the second time it was on with the build of the Bristol M.1C.

The Model The Bristol M.1C aircraft I used was the recently released Special Hobby 1/32 scale kit; this is available in two versions, the wartime boxing of the Bristol M.1C, which is the one I used, and the more colourful ‘checkers and stripes’ boxing for trainers. Upon opening the box I was immediately smitten by the quality of the resin seat, this is possibly the best piece of resin casting I have ever seen to date. Also in the box are four sprues of grey plastic, a fret of photo-etch, decals and a good instruction booklet. The plastic parts have a small mould seem present on most parts but nothing major for a kit of this type, although it did take a bit of time to clean it up before construction could begin.

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BRISTOL M.1C

1/32 Construction Starting with the cockpit, I found that the engineering of the cockpit and fit were first rate, as I have said the resin seat is superb, all that was needed was to remove the resin flash from the lattice on the seat back. Before painting, I added HGW fabric seat belts as these really do look good in my opinion (PE belts are included in the kit). With the cockpit framework done and the simple fuselage interior painted the halves could be closed up. The fuselage was cleaned with Testor’s Plastic Prep in the pink bottle, to clean off any mould release residue and grease from handling the parts, as I envisaged a lot of masking and I did not want any risk of the paint lifting. Once the parts were cleaned I sprayed all surfaces with my own mix of enamel clear-doped linen (CDL). Once this was dry I spent a day masking every rib and stringer with 1mm masking tape, before spraying Tamiya white acrylic on to the upper surfaces and Tamiya matt black to the undersides, which meant that once the masks were removed I had pre-shaded all of the stringer and rib detail. I now sprayed the top surfaces with a light coat of Tamiya Earth for the upper surfaces while the undersides of the wings and control surfaces were painted in CDL with the final coat being a slightly browner acrylic CDL mix. As the Editor has requested that we talk about our mistakes, here is my 'biggy': when I finished painting, it was pointed out that I had painted the topsides with the totally wrong shade of brown, I had used Tamiya Earth, rather than a mix of Tamiya Linoleum and Tamiya Brown which would have given

me a neater match for the reddish brown colour of PC12. So I now had to repaint all the upper areas of the model but in correcting this problem, most of my top surface shading had been lost. So days of hard work was wasted due to my making a silly mistake of using the wrong colour; you will have to take my word for it that the underside of the aircraft looks much better than the upper surfaces. So moving on, a neat trick I have found is that if you gently polish a matt painted surface with a piece of felt, you can achieve a nice semi-gloss finish. Polishing with felt also helps in removing any steps in the finish at the hard masked edge between upper and lower surfaces. I now added the decals and luckily these went on without any silvering, as I had made yet another mistake. After polishing my model I had produced such a nice shiny finish that I forgot that I had not sprayed it with Johnson's Klear in preparation for the decaling stage The kits decals are strong, which was just as well as they had a habit of curling up, the only remedy I found was to put them back in the water to unfurl the decal and then let it float clear of the backing paper. I fished out the now flat decal from the water with the backing paper and laid it back on the model, luckily the decals were strong enough to take this abuse. And once they stuck they really stuck and with a bit of Set and Sol they conformed beautifully over the moulded detail. So far, so good, even with my paint 'faux pas' now came the part I was dreading, the rigging. I chose to take advice from a fellow contributor and WW1 aircraft guru Tim Upson-Smith

A neat trick I have found is that if you gently “polish a matt painted surface with a piece of felt, you can achieve a nice semi-gloss finish ”

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who told me the easiest way was to use Prym knitting-in elastic, which can be purchased from Amazon in 200 metre bobbins for a reasonable price and will do more models than you can build in a lifetime. The rigging took me a day, a day of mounting frustrations as nothing seemed to be going my way, I didn’t seem to be able to catch a break, whether it was me or my superglue I do not know, but I could not get the thread to stick where I wanted it to, but it would set instantly where I didn’t want it to. I found that for every success I would have approximately fifteen failures, each failure required a little piece of the thread to be removed as any area that had touched the superglue had taking on a rigid kinked appearance. This also meant that the thread, already in place at the other end, would progressively be pulled tighter and tighter and therefore thinner and thinner as it became shorter, leaving me to have threads of different diameters, and the thread's natural aerofoil section looking twisted and the appearance spoilt. (I think that this problem may have been

The kit produces a good representation of the Bristol “ M.1C with a bit of work, and as I have already said the resin casting is superb ” caused by over tensioning the thread rather than let it take up any slack naturally - TUS) If you thought I had finished with my mistakes here comes another: having completed the rigging and being pleased with its initial results, I managed to drop a pair of pliers on the tail of my model which with the help of the elasticated thread, caused the rudder, horizontal control surfaces and elevators to fold up like a demolished tower block. To say I was frustrated would be a major understatement. I had to remove most of the thread, reassemble the surfaces which now had much weakened connecting points, as the small plastic joining pegs had snapped clean off; in hindsight the pegs should have been replaced with Albion Alloys metal rod for added strength. Always easy to be wise after the event. I now started on the engine, I used the newly released CMK resin Clerget which is really well cast and thought out, having square cross section mounting lugs which allow for the precise location of the cylinders. However the downside is that for all this engine's beauty, it cannot be seen on the finished model because of the giant spinner, hiding it from sight, but at least I know it's there! One of the main attractions of this model was the large face on the spinner; I painted this on the spinner with Vallejo acrylic paint on top of a hard coat of gloss Future. Vallejo paints are a beautiful paint to use but I find it helps to thin them slightly with water and add 'Vallejo retard medium' to extend the working time. I applied the paints in a number of thin coats. Once I was happy a light application of heat from a hair dryer hardened the paint instantly ready for the next layer. Once I was happy with my face I attached the spinner to complete the model, and I could now think about the base my model would stand on. I selected a suitable sized base from the 'Just Bases ' range. I started by masking the edges

before applying the groundwork using Tamiya Dark Earth textured paint. This is a wonderful product; it dries quickly and has the pigment colour running through it, and so any later remodelling does not leave any colour variations, as with other products such as coloured plaster. Once I had the effect I was looking for I added some washes of watered down PVA glue over the top to try and give the impression of wet but drying mud as per the photo I was trying to emulate. To finish my model the ladder, visible in the photo, came from a Wingnut Wings additional detailing sprue, which are included in some of their kits but can also be purchased from Wingnut Wings as a separate item, at a reasonable price which includes postage and packing.

Conclusion I must confess that I found this project a challenge, as it was my first complete WW1 aircraft in this scale! Most of the problems I encountered were of my own making and some being caused by my wanting to replicate faithfully the photo that inspired the model. I did try to ignore the fact that the pilot in the photo was not wearing his jacket but once it was pointed out I could not let it go. The kit produces a good representation of the Bristol M.1C with a bit of work and as I have already said the resin casting is superb, the design first rate and the decal saved me by standing up to repeated abuse. This was my first proper World War One model (The editor says June’s edition car plane does not count) and I will now try something a bit more mainstream, probably by Wingnut Wings, before tackling another short-run World War One kit which was a lot harder than I expected. I would like to thank Special Hobby for supplying me with the review sample to build, which despite my best efforts looks very nice once completed.

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Jet Provost T.4 Fly Models 1/48 Jet Provost T.4 Review by Jonathan Davies he Jet Provost is perhaps one of the more iconic RAF aircraft in recent history. Sometimes and perhaps unfairly referred to as ‘constant velocity, variable noise’, it formed the mainstay of RAF flying training for many years, remaining in service from 1955 until the type’s retirement in 1993. With development based on Hunting Percival’s original piston engine Provost, the type developed into the T.5 and Strikemaster and was sold around the world. This particular model is of the T.4, a BAC built aircraft, and is essentially an improved T.3 with an improved engine. Aside from the regular flying training squadrons, there were also a good number of aerobatic display teams which operated the Jet Provost in various forms. Perhaps the most well known is The Red Pelicans, which is the option I chose for my model.

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The Kit The kit is sturdily boxed and comes as two sprues of light brown plastic. A separate sprue with the clear parts is supplied along with a small bag of resin parts covering mainly the cockpit, seats, wheels, air intakes and some small detail parts. Initial inspection shows the parts to be well detailed with finely engraved panel lines. The decals are printed by BOA AGENCY from the Czech Republic and the resin is by Artillery Models, neither of whom I have previously encountered. The instructions are clear and well laid out and the colour schemes are given on the rear of the box. Four sets of markings are provided which cover an all red Red Pelicans aerobatic team aircraft from1964, a Cranwell based aircraft from 1966 with dayglo strips, a civilian owned T.4 from 2011, based at Bruntingthorpe in the colours of 1 TWU/79 Sqn, and another aerobatic team aircraft from The Macaws at RAF Manby in the late 1960’s. An important point to note is that the paint references for the overall scheme are printed on the outside of the box and are different to the references quoted in the instructions for interior colours. For

example “j” refers to blue when dealing with seat straps, but a bare metal colour when dealing with the overall colour.

Construction I started with gently washing the resin in warm soapy water using an old toothbrush to remove any mould release agent. Then after detaching and cleaning up the wheels from the casting blocks these were mounted on cocktail sticks and Halfords grey primer sprayed over almost all the resin. In retrospect, black primer might have been better as most of this will be black anyway. I left the intakes unprimed as they would be primed later when the aircraft was to be painted. Whilst the primer was drying, I removed the intakes from their casting block and tidied them up. The resin is quite hard and takes a little effort to work it properly. One intake matched up nearly perfectly, the other required a small sliver of plasticard along the top mating edge to improve the fit against the fuselage. Some thin superglue was run into the join and left to harden up. On the underside of the intake there is a small step, which needs filing down to create a smoother and more aerodynamic profile.

The instructions are “ clear and well laid out

and the colour schemes are given on the rear of the box

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a good number of aerobatic display teams “ operated the Jet Provost in various forms. Perhaps the most well known is The Red Pelicans, which is the option I chose for my model

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I turned to the cockpit next and sprayed the whole lot in Tamiya NATO Black, picking out areas as indicated with Citadel Black, which gives a nice contrast in the different concepts of black. The seats were painted as per instruction with some reference to photographs found on the Internet. Comparing the seats to pictures on the Martin Baker website, I noticed a few differences, but they are good enough for all bar the most particular modellers. There is plenty of scope for a modeller to go to work superdetailing if required. My only addition was to add the ejection handle on the headrest from wire. After a coat of Johnson's Klear, the

decals were added to the cockpit area. The instrument panel was the most significant but a small decal is also supplied to represent the dial on the instrument mounted on the coaming. Unfortunately the decal lacked any detail and was simply a black disc so I left it off. The decals for the side panels are misnumbered, in one case, but this is easy to determine and rectify. The decals themselves are incredibly thin and very flexible. They bedded down like a coat of paint when used with Mr Mark Softer and Setter. Once they were dry, a quick spray of matt varnish sealed them and returned the cockpit to a uniform shine.

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1/48 Once everything is dry, the cockpit can be assembled. This is a somewhat fiddly task and full attention should be given to the instructions, which show how the side panels and rear bulkhead match to the floor. Getting the positions right involved a little bit of guesswork. The instructions show the seats to be added later on in construction, however, it is worth using them to help fit the centre console, the location of which should be carefully examined. It needs to go right up against the rear bulkhead as I discovered later when I found that the fit was too tight, which could have been down to me. I had to shave a bit off the side of the ejector seats at the bottom front in order to get everything to fit. Fortunately, because of the location, this can’t be seen once the seats are installed. You are also instructed to add the clear covers for the nose mounted landing lights. This involves drilling out the two holes in the nose first, a task made a little harder as the landing light lenses weren't quite circular and were flat at the bottom. On the real aircraft, the lights were mounted a little way back from the clear cover, meaning that when the nose was viewed from the side, you could see clear though both clear covers. I advise adding these covers before joining the fuselage halves just to make it easier. Once the clear parts were in place, I was able to give them a quick rub over with a polishing pad to blend them in. The exhaust is next. I gave it a coat of

Alclad Jet Exhaust before locating it into the fuselage, the assembly in the rear of the fuselage is a little vague, but manageable without too much struggle and I reinforced the joint with superglue and bicarbonate of soda and added a small plastic piece superglued to the top of the resin jet pipe. The cockpit was now attached into place, the locating of this part being very easy. Now with both cockpit and exhaust secured, the fuselage halves were then joined together and clamped up and left to dry. Whilst most of the fuselage closed up beautifully, I had a couple of small fit issues with a gap on the underside and a strange fit on the fin. The gap underneath I think was caused by the width of the cockpit, a fault which I should have seen and could have corrected on a dry fit. As for the fin, I thinned the inside face of one part of the fin to get a smooth profile, however the leading edge seemed to have a small gap I couldn’t close without resorting to filler. Whilst the fuselage was setting, I started on the wings which are fairly straightforward with a small resin wall to be inserted in the upper half of each wing and act as the internal wall to the wheel well. Careful attention to the instructions shows that the side with the holes in is located on the leading edge side of the wing. Once these are attached in place, the wings went together very easily, but you must remove a small ejector pin stub which can spoil the fit unless removed. Although this kit does not have any locating pins and holes, I found it very easy to get a good clean joint, though I did have a very faint joint line along the leading edge, so faint in fact that I could only see it under a magnifier. I filled this

Although this kit “ does not have any

locating pins and holes, I found it very easy to get a good clean joint

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For the 1963-4 “ season, my references show that the aircraft were painted dayglo red

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with thin superglue and rubbed it down. The wing tip tanks also went together now. Instructions are a little vague, but you should note there is an engraved circular access panel on the top of the tank which helps identify which half goes with which. Again a little work smoothing and squaring the mating surfaces makes for a far better joint and saves having to do any filling later. Back to the fuselage, on removing the clamps I found I had a slight step along the joint on the underside and a similar much smaller one on top. It’s possible this could have been caused by my clamping of the fuselage, A light application of Mr Surfacer filled a few little rough spots and a brush coat of Johnson’s Klear just helped give a smoother finish. With this bit done, I then went to apply the

wings. You will need to do some work on the joints here. The tongues on the wing roots do need a little trimming and I had to open the port side hole up a little more at the rear to get the sit right so the wing profile matched the wing root profile. I ended up with a rather loose joint and used this as an excuse to buy one of the wooden laser-cut jigs available from www.modellingtools.co.uk . This jig allowed me to set the wings up and then run a little solvent into the joint to initially fix them. I still had some significant gaps and I used thin slivers of plasticard, solvent and superglue with bicarbonate of soda to fill these and create a really strong joint. The tip tanks of the Provost have a clear piece for the light which you could just paint this onto the plain plastic, but I chose to add the clear part supplied by Fly which means cutting the tip off the tank and adding the clear pieces. Following the indicated line, the lenses were slightly oversize, but they sanded down and polished up nicely. A little time taken to square the mating surfaces between the wings and tip tanks is well spent. I also drilled a couple of holes and used a piece of straightened paper clip to reinforce the joint. A little filler was required to complete the joint. Likewise with the tailplanes, a little time was spent squaring the mating surfaces before they were drilled and pinned. Again, these required only a small amount of filler to finish the joint. Two intakes on the top need to be carefully placed so they are intakes and not exhausts. They mount on a faint engraving and should not be confused with the deeper mouldings further down the side. The small resin piece PUR8 to be added to the nose disappeared into the carpet whilst I was cleaning it up, meaning I had to scratchbuild a replacement. The flat curved piece, part 20, which is shown as being added to

the nose was left off as this was not on the aircraft I was building. One example of where you should check references before adding things like aerials. The canopy was dipped in Johnson's Klear prior to masking and whilst this was drying I assembled some of the undercarriage legs. The resin oleo braces attach positively with a drop of superglue whilst the nose gear joins together very well, provided you prepare the mating surfaces carefully. I left all the undercarriage parts to one side, planning to paint and add them towards the end of the build. Back to the fuselage, having applied a little filler to the shelf at the rear of the cockpit, this was rubbed down and sprayed black as was the canopy framing. The canopy is easy to mask, the framing giving you a decent line to follow. Fly are to be commended on capturing the canopy design very well, complete with the overlap of the main section over the rear.

Painting The instructions indicate Signal Red for the 1964 Red Pelicans aircraft, which in many photographs looks about right. However, for the 1963-4 season, my references show that the aircraft were painted dayglo red. Part of this may arise from the fact that dayglo is very hard to photograph and often comes up as a bright red, not dissimilar to Signal Red. I turned to friends in the Aerobatic Display Teams SIG, namely Gary Siddall and Adrian Balch, who both confirmed dayglo red was the correct colour and Adrian was kind enough to send me a scan of a Kodachrome slide from 1964 of the team. As

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Kodachrome is one of the better films for colour quality and retention, it was a great help. The instructions are also incorrect regarding the tip tank markings, and both a B&W film on Youtube and Adrian’s picture showed that the tip tanks had three dayglo panels on them rather than the suggested single panel. I was able to cut masks out from some thin vinyl sheet using a cutting machine, however it would be reasonably easy to create a stencil from plasticard and use that to cut masks from tape. I used Tamiya TS-36 Fluorescent Red sprayed over white primer. The paint comes up very well with a good gloss finish, although you will need several thin coats to achieve the required density. It is eye searingly bright – particularly over the entire airframe and has a very distinct orange tone. Adrian’s information indicated that Humbrol Fire Orange could also be used, based on his memories and Kodachrome slides from the time. Once the dayglo was completed, I masked the tip tanks, leading edges, intake lips and exhaust shroud and sprayed them Alclad gloss black primer followed by Alclad Airframe Aluminium. This is perhaps slightly shinier than desired, but looked very effective. The Instructions show the wheels to have black hubs. In fact these were painted aluminium, but with the accumulation of grime, they did quite

often appear black to the casual observer. I sprayed the hubs aluminium and then toned them down with a Games Workshop Badab Black wash.

Finishing Fitting the instrument panel and coaming was a bit of a trial. I lost the top of one of the control columns in the process, as it pinged off somewhere. Note that the coaming sits quite well down meaning the instrument panel also sits low. I had quite a problem getting it to fit in any way that looked reasonable but this is another case where careful planning at the start with plenty of dry fitting will prevent many issues later on. I attached the rear section of the canopy and found a slight edge where the interior black was not completely hidden, necessitating in a small retouch of the dayglo at the rear. The foot of the rear section where it joins the fuselage was touched in with silver to represent

used Tamiya TS-36 “ IFluorescent Red sprayed over white primer. The paint comes up very well with a good gloss finish

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the canopy rails. Decaling was very easy going. The decals themselves are very thin and detach from the backing paper after only a few seconds, even in cool water. I used Mr Mark Setter under the decals and after tamping down with a cotton bud, I found it unnecessary to use any further setting solution on top of that. I would say that the larger decals such as the serials are so thin that once they are in place on the model, they are staying where you put them. If you try to move them, you will destroy them, so be careful. The Red Pelicans, certainly in this colour scheme, were devoid of stencils which made life a lot easier...especially when looking close up at that dayglo. The break glass panel on the left side of the nose could do without the yellow and black surround according to the picture, and the cut marks on the canopy should be black, rather than the indicated yellow, (decals for both are provided). A coat of Johnson's Klear sealed all of the decals and provided a nice overall gloss finish. With decaling complete, I added the undercarriage and main canopy. The nosewheel is easy enough to add and align, however I found the main gear a little fiddly. Given more time, I would have probably have added a tiny ‘drill and pin’ to help align the main wheel legs. I found 5-minute two-part epoxy to be useful in this respect as it produces a strong join but also gives some time to make sure everything is reasonably square. I found that the main canopy had to be pressed down over the rear section as it was apt to spring up due to the tight fit. I found a clamp and some Tamiya liquid cement helped secure it very well after it was left overnight to dry. There are several small rod antennas to attach, including two under each wing which aren’t shown in great clarity on the instructions. The pitot tube must also be added but has to be from scratch using Albion alloys slide fit tubing. The two blade aerials on the top and bottom of

It’s clear that Fly have made a serious effort here to “produce a very nice kit of an iconic British trainer ” the fuselage are inaccurately shaped in the kit, so I replaced these with some cut from plasticard. Not that the topside one is offset to the right to clear the raised spine leading into the fin. I also left the clear beacon off the top of the fuselage as this was a later addition not present on my reference photographs.

Conclusion As a short-run kit I was expecting a few issues with fit and the ease of the build. I need not have worried. Yes, there are a few small issues, but nothing serious. I put most of mine down to my building to a deadline and therefore not spending enough time dry fitting and fettling. As with most models, a little research and checking references will go a long way to help you. It’s clear that Fly have made a serious effort here to

produce a very nice kit of an iconic British trainer and in my opinion have a produced a very nice kit. The resin parts were clean and easy to work with, the clear parts are nice and clear and there is no flash to speak of anywhere. A few details need to be added or amended from scratch but to me, that is what modelling is about. Selling around the £25-£30 mark, this is a well recommended addition to anyone’s collection. My sincere thanks to Fly for providing the review kit.

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Century Series

The Hun over Vietnam 1/48 Trumpeter F-100D by Steven J. Corvi he F-100D was designed as a fighterbomber, with no consideration for the air-superiority role. The F-100D had a wing root chord increased from the F100C model. The D model was equipped with landing flaps, which was a specific feature of the F-100D. The F-100D and the F-100C both had the same six underwing hard points, but the detachable underwing pylons used a forced ejection system rather than the traditional gravity release for dropping their ordnance. The vertical fin and rudder were increased in area, and the fin trailing edge featured a larger and wider square protrusion which carried the rearward radar-warning antenna. The F100D also had improved ordnance delivery equipment which enabled the Super Sabre to deliver both nuclear and conventional ordnance with greater accuracy. The first F-100D (54-2121) flew on January 24, 1956, and deliveries to the USAF began in September of 1956. As the F-100D entered

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After President Johnson signed the Gulf of Tonkin “resolution on August 10th, 1964 the USAF F-100Ds began to fly missions over North Vietnam ” service some problems were detected and corrected in those late years of the 1950’s. Around 1959 the F-100Ds were modified to carry the Bullpup air-to-surface missile. The Bullpup missile was an optically guided munition, which was guided to its target by the pilot using a radio command joystick to impart guidance commands to the missile, but unfortunately this missile was less than reliable in the jungles of Vietnam and subsequently was withdrawn from action after only a few missions. However the versatility of the Super Sabre made it an ideal weapons platform for the close support interdiction missions in Vietnam.

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After President Johnson signed the Gulf of Tonkin resolution on August 10th, 1964 the USAF F-100Ds began to fly missions over North Vietnam. The two missions assigned to the Super Sabre were generally of two types, MiG-CAP patrols to protect strike aircraft from attack by marauding North Vietnamese fighters and Close Support Air-to Ground strike missions carried out with iron bombs against various ground targets. As a MiG-CAP aircraft it was thought that the 4 M39 20mm cannons would be a useful air-to-air weapon, but the airframe saw little air-to-air combat in Vietnam. However, the F-100D proved remarkably adaptable to the rough field operations in the tropical jungle of Vietnam. The F-100D also was an easy aircraft to maintain in the field compared to the larger and more complex F-105 and F-4 Phantoms. The aforementioned aircraft, however, could carry a larger

bomb load further and faster, furthermore the F-105 was built to take the extreme structural loads of low-level, high-speed flight (due to its original tactical nuclear delivery mission) and the F-4 Phantom was a new generation of aircraft working with an onboard Radar Instrument Officer and offering a wider array of the then-new electronic ordnance that was be deployed in Southeast Asia. As the war progressed the F-100D was used more and more for 'in-country' missions in the south as interdiction and even Res-Cap where it proved highly effective. The last F-100Ds left Vietnam in July of 1971.

Kit I chose to build the 1/48 Trumpeter F-100D kit for this article and only added minimal aftermarket items The Trumpeter kit fits well and has some nice features but also has an inaccurate nose intake profile. The Monogram kit is a actually more accurate but has older tooling with raised panel lines and does not fit as well as the newer-tooled Trumpeter kit (see my article in SAMI September 1999, vol.5, Issue 9). I employed a resin seat from Avionix (exKMC moulds) and the white metal landing gear graciously provided by SAC (Scale Aircraft Conversions).

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1/48 Construction My build began in the cockpit where Trumpeter does a good job of giving you good fit and detail. I employed all the kits parts and decals for the instrument panel. I did however use the resin seat by Avionix which is far superior to the kit seat and fits into the cockpit with minimal clean-up. After the cockpit was constructed and painted it was ready for insertion into the fuselage. This went together with no hitches and required a very small amount of filler on the nose area and underside. I will mention at this point that one should be careful removing some parts from the sprues since the mould gates are attached to the mating surfaces and overzealous sanding may create gaps and fit issues. I recommend you cut all parts from the runner leaving a small part of the mould gate in place, then remove the tiny nub on the mating surface with a razor saw or X-acto blade. This method will pay dividends during the construction of your model, and I find this method works well with many of the newertooled Chinese moulded kits. The wings and fuselage went together very nicely and this is where I needed to

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plan the next few stages of assembly and painting carefully. Since I opted for a camouflaged bird 'Day Tripper', from the 308 TFS in Tuy Hoa (F-100D 56-3163) I needed to plan the natural burnt iron exhaust area which bled through many camouflaged Super Sabres in Vietnam. I undercoated the exhaust area in Tamiya TS-30 Silver Leaf (lacquer-solvent based) and then used two shades of Alclad [Jet Exhaust ALD-113 & Burnt Iron ALD121] to create the distinctive burnt exhaust bars. Once this dried I then touched the area up a little with Tamiya Weathering Pastels set D - Burnt Red. This was then all sealed in with a light coat of Testors Lacquer flat coat. This made it a rather durable surface over which to mask for the SEA camouflage sequence. I employed a slightly different masking material for the exhaust area! I used plastilene moulding clay to create the more organic look of the heatremoved paint from the Super Sabre exhaust area. I proceeded to paint the underside in USAF Light Gray. The unorthodox masking worked nicely as I painted the three shades of the SEA Camouflage of Dark Green, Medium Green and USAF Tan with Gunze

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Sangyo and Tamiya water-alcohol based acrylics. I did however decide to weather the topside camouflage colors with toned and lightened versions of the three colours. I toned the colours down with lighter shades of greys and whites. The look I was going for was the faded look of the Vietnam jungle aircraft. The airframe was then washed with a mix of panel line wash from Flory. This really made much of the engraved detail of the Trumpeter kit really pop out nicely. I let this all dry for a few days before I applied a gloss coat and the decals. After the final dull coat, I pulled the masks and

I employed a slightly different masking “ material for the exhaust area! I used plastilene moulding clay to create the more organic look of the heat-removed paint from the Super Sabre exhaust area

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I can recommend this kit to both the novice and “ experienced builder, and it offers more opportunities for more detailing if the modeller should decide to go that route

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was satisfied with the jet exhaust area of fading and paint erosion. The rest of the aircraft parts were painted and set aside for final construction. The SAC white metal landing gears were polished with a Dremel rotary tool and wire brush attachment. They were then decaled and sealed and then weathered appropriately. I then assembled and painted the BLU-10 Napalm canisters from True Details (48-528) and glued them to the bomb pylon and ejector rack. With the airframe painted I attached the gears and wheels and the nose pitot tube and it was

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References

starting to look like a Hun. The final task was to assemble and paint the mounting ladder and the climbing pilot figure from the Hasegawa pilots set. •

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Conclusion Overall, this kit was a relatively trouble free build and makes into a nice representation of the real thing. I can recommend this kit to both the novice and experienced builder, and it offers more opportunities for more detailing if the modeller should decide to go that route.

SCALE AVIATION MODELLER INTERNATIONAL

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David A. Anderton, North American F-100 Super Sabre, Osprey Air Combat series, Osprey 1987. Peter Davies and David Menard, F-100 Super Sabre Units of the Vietnam War, Osprey 2011. Bert Kinzey, F-100 Super Sabre in Detail and Scale (vol. 33), Squadron/Signal Publications, (1989). http://www.supersabresociety.com/ http://www.f-100.org/hun.shtml

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HALIFAX MK II SERIES 1A

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With the help of the

Warsaw Uprising Building a 1586th Flight Handley Page Halifax Mk II series 1A by Wojciech Butrycz Part Two

s mentioned in my article on Liberator Mk VI SAMI Vol 20, No 8, August 2014, No. 1586 (Polish Special Duties) Flight was first formed at RAF Derna, in Libya on 4 November 1943, equipped with Handley Page Halifax II special duties aircraft. Remaining crews and aircraft of 301 (Polish) Squadron after disbandment, formed C Flight of 138 Squadron. That’s why initially all Halifaxes bore NF code markings, later changed to the GR of the 301 (Polish) RAF Sqdn. Unlike the Liberator the Revell new-tool Halifax model is not as easy to build, as it has some serious shape and size mistakes on all four engines and the propellers that have to be corrected. As I did not want to use old Matchbox kit parts to restore them, I had to wait for the release of the Freightdog (72049) and Aeroclub (V244) updating sets. While the former was disappointing, having correction parts only for the Galley radiators and spinners, which correct only the shapes leaving the wrong dimensions of the Revell kit (excellent, correct diameter undercarriage wheels are included!), the latter has everything needed to correct the Revell kit errors, except for the wing fairings for the outer engines. Eventually, I used the wheels from the Freightdog set and almost all the parts from Aeroclub's set. Additionally, I had purchased the ubiquitous Eduard coloured photo-etched set for the cockpit (SS429), and their masks for the canopies (CX317), and last but not least, I used the Pavla resin set (72054) which is devoted mainly to detailing the fuselage interior. The Revell model is of excellent quality apart from the inaccuracies of the engines and wheels, and with all the exterior and interior updating parts it can, however, be built to even the most discerning modeller’s satisfaction with a little work. So armed with all the above goods I could start to build my long awaited Halifax model.

A

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A lot of sanding, polishing, and restoring the “model surface details were done to bring the short-run, multi-media parts up to the high standard of the detail supplied in the injection moulded parts

”

Construction I started with the crucial part of the work to correct the major error in the shape of the engines by adding Aeroclub engine nacelles to the Revell wings. I knew that once the misshapes and incorrect sizes of the nacelle/prop were overcome, the rest of the work would be easy. Since the nacelle openings in the Revell wings are overscaled and being far too broad, a lot of Tamiya grey putty was used to

fair in the Aeroclub nacelles to the Revell wings. A lot of sanding, polishing, and restoring the model surface details were done to bring the short-run, multi-media parts up to the high standard of the detail supplied in the injection moulded parts. This is the practical price you pay

for use of aftermarkets sets and of course there is a financial price as well. I could of course have turned a blind-eye to the errors but personally I could not live with the engines ruining the shape of my model. I also sculptured new outer engine upper nacelle fairings. I made these from scrap plastic and putty with constant checks against my references which were mainly the 1/72 plans from Aerodata International, and good quality contemporary photographs from various sources! The other area I needed to correct was the bomb bay doors. These consisted of two doors on each side, not the single one as supplied by Revell. Strangely enough the complicated hinges and the closing mechanism are rendered correctly, just not the doors themselves. I produced mine from styrene sheet, which I slightly rounded in the heat from a hairdryer before attaching to the model. As expected, once I was done with the most demanding part of the project the remainder was pure pleasure. The cockpit interior was built as mix of base Pavla resin parts, like the internal walls, seats, equipment, and kit parts like the

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walls and floors. All this was enriched with excellent coloured Eduard PE parts, mainly for all gauges, panels, seat harness etc. I also added some wiring from various sizes of fuse wire and Plus Model lead wire. The rear turret was built from the kit parts with Eduard details for control panel and seat belts as seen in photos. Additionally, I opened up the rear port fuselage access hatch, making the doors from thin styrene and attached them in the half open position. I now assembled the fuselage before adding the wings and tailplane to the fuselage - no filler was required so I could move straight on to the next stage

Painting and decaling I started by painting all the upper surfaces with Lifecolor RAF Dark Earth next; I cut out from my paper plans the Dark Earth areas, and taped them to the upper surfaces before spraying the RAF Dark Green (again from the Lifecolor Range). Once dry, the whole upper area of fuselage, wings, and tailplanes was masked carefully with straight pieces of

tape before Lifecolor Black was sprayed to the undersides of the model. Finally the whole model was sprayed with a coat of Vallejo Gloss varnish before applying the decals. The decals I used on my model came from AIRMO/Jadar decal set no 72 402 which supplies markings for two Halifaxes and one Liberator of the 1586th Special Duty Flight. The code letters NF- A came from an old Modeldecal Sheet for RAF Dull Red code letters for the WW II era. Incidentally, the Airmo/Jadar set also includes decals for Halifax Mk II, JD319, but when coded as GR-A later in its life. Once the decals were dry, and the residuals were wiped off, the whole airframe had another coat of varnish, this time with Vallejo Matt Cote. This coat acts as a good base for my weathering; I used light grey, rust, brown and black pastels. I paid extra attention to the saxophone-type exhaust system, which heavily stains the upper parts of the nacelles and wings, as seen on many Halifax photographs.

entire model was sprayed with a coat “ The of Vallejo Gloss varnish before applying the decals ”

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The Revell kit with the “ addition of the aftermarket update sets gives you the opportunity to build an excellent replica that is truly up to modern 21st century standards

”

Finally to finish the model I added the final detail parts, the undercarriage is beautifully rendered by Revell’s, and I only added the wire mudguards as well as a representation of the brake lines and some ducting from lead wire. It was also at this point that I substituted the kit wheels for the superior ones from the Freightdog set. Last but not least I removed the mask from the cockpit glazing and added the open pilot's hatch, navigation lights and antenna wires.

drawings, leading to the need to purchase the extra sets in the first place. I hope my next Halifax will be a Hercules engined variant and will come as a new tooling from Airfix! Do I know something, others don’t? No, sadly I’m just dreaming and hoping that it happens in 2016. •

•

•

References WARPAINT SERIES NO 46, Handley Page Halifax, by Tony Butler, Warpaint Books Ltd., Luton. Aerodata International No 7, Handley Page Halifax, Merlin-engined variants, Vintage Aviation Publications Ltd., Oxford, 1979 Google: 1586th Special Duty Flight

Conclusion The Revell model with the addition of the aftermarket update sets gives you the opportunity to build an excellent replica that is truly up to modern 21st century standards. But it is a pity that Revell based their model on wrong

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Luft 46 The Rocket Glider Building Brenguns BV.40R in 1/72 Scale by Adam Rehorn s the Second World War raged on, the Luftwaffe high command became increasingly desperate to stem the tide of daylight bombing raids. Any idea, no matter how radical, simple, brilliant or silly was at least considered, it seems. The problem with a lot of the proposals, though, was the risk involved. Dangerously cantankerous propulsion systems with equally dangerous fuels had already proven to be more of a problem than a solution, and many of the craft proposed used aerodynamics that were not only unconventional, they were utterly unproven! The Blohm und Voss (BV) answer to this was to simply “go back to basics”. The BV.40 concept started as the simplest possible plane with the simplest possible aerodynamics; a straight-winged glider. There were six prototypes of the BV.40 (V1-V6) that were made and tested. It was found that the aircraft was practical and could be flown faster than at first thought, but range and speed were still problems. If the tow aircraft had to come dangerously close to the bomber stream to release the BV.40, then what good was it?

A You want to put what WHERE? Yes, the little BV.40 R doesn’t seem too pleased about the positioning of the AIM-7, but you can see how it will make a nifty nozzle. Well, at least the nose cone will!

This is the nosecone from the Sparrow all faired in and sanded to the right length. With the new exhaust drilled in, the bulge it provides to the rear fuselage makes for a convincing rocket fighter!

This is the new canopy hinge line being scribed in. Yes, I have “smiley” Dymo Tape; it’s important to be happy when modelling! Note the very Spartan cockpit with pilot’s “creeper” bench.

The BV.40R

Here the canopy is glued on and the join line filled with CA glue. The pale patch near the trailing edge of the wing is melted plastic used to fill the large gap where the gunpod didn’t quite meet the body.

This is the hole I drilled for the toothpick “holder” on the underside of the nose. Note the nice fit of the resin rocket racks; there’s no filler used there at all. Brilliant!

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To extend the range of the BV.40, a new development, the BV.40R, was proposed. The “R” stood for “Rakete” (rocket), and the aircraft was just the basic BV.40 with a Walter HWK 109-507 motor stuffed in

This is the handle/bumper at the wingtip. You can see the two very large sprue gates on it. Sanding these off is delicate work, and should only be attempted once the pieces are glued in place.

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the tail. This small engine, the same as was used on the Hs 293 glide bomb, would give the aircraft two minutes of thrust, and allow it to be released further from the bomber stream. The installation of the motor should have been easy; it was a small unit and there was lots of room in the BV’s fuselage for the small propellant tanks. However, before any of these powered versions were constructed, or even authorized, the project was cancelled.

The Kit Even though the BV.40R never existed, the good folks at Czech manufacturer Brengun decided to make a model of it anyway. To do this was relatively simple; they took their pre-existing BV.40 glider, gave it a new fuselage and resin R4Ms and “Voila!”: instant Luft ’46! The box art for the Brengun BV.40 R shows machine “5” powering its way towards a B17.Seeing the plume of fire out the back of this most un-speedy looking design definitely gives one pause and makes for a great commentary on the nature of those things dreamed up in desperate times. This BV.40 came on one sprue of dark tan plastic. Unsurprisingly, the parts are pretty small, since the glider itself is quite diminutive. There is also a decal sheet with markings for the illustrated aircraft “5”, and another numbered “2”, as well as a separately bagged transparency and a fret of photoetch. This is the most surprising thing; the amount of photoetch in such a small kit is

The Sparrow-nose rocket nozzle blends in very nicely once the plane is finished. Some extra drybrushing on the rudder’s fabric panels and around the nozzle really highlight these contours.

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There’s not a lot of glass on this little plane, and that means that all the detail in the cockpit is nearly invisible. A lazy modeller, could, in theory, just leave it all out and paint the insides black; you’d never know!

Even though the BV.40R never existed, the good folks at Czech manufacturer Brengun decided to make a model of it anyway

“

”

astounding! There are flap hinges and actuators, a tow hook, landing gear support cables and hinges for the canopy (which doesn’t open). Add to all of this the racks and actual R4M rockets that are provided in well-cast resin and you have quite the full box! Considering there isn’t much to the BV.40, Brengun has gone all out to make sure that those who are looking for detail won’t be left wanting. The plastic parts of the kit are quite wellformed, with finely recessed panel lines and good detail. There isn’t much in the way of cockpit detail, but this is definitely true to the real aircraft! The couch for the pilot looks nice, though it isn’t easy to see it through the finished canopy. It was very interesting to me that the “R” version has a completely new fuselage, with different panels marked on it, compared to the pure glider version. These panels are for filling the rocket propellants. The other change is the small hole, formed just under the rudder, to represent the rocket exhaust. The instructions are simple, befitting the subject, and fairly clear. There is a full colour paint plan on the back of the box.

Building the BV.40R The small size and relative simplicity of the BV.40R doesn’t mean that this kit is a “no-

brainer”. It does start, like most airplanes, in the “front office”. The semi-prone position of the pilot means that the cockpit of the BV.40 is a bit different from other planes. Where one normally finds a seat and control column, the BV.40 has a floor and a “couch”, like a mechanic’s creeper. The floor and walls of the cockpit were painted RAF Interior Green. Sure, it’s not quite the right colour, but I doubt in 1/72, and with a wash, that anyone can tell. I painted the couch in a mixed “leather” brownish colour, to give the impression of something “softer” than its surroundings. Everything was given a wash of Citadel Nuln oil to highlight the contours and what detail there is. The small instrument clusters were painted black and drybrushed with silver to highlight the dials. The instructions show two control sticks, but there’s only a locating mark for one, so that’s all I put in. Assembly is straightforward on this kit; the fuselage halves fit around the cockpit “plate” and the wings and tailplane are each single pieces. There’s a faint seam along the edges of these components, but a quick pass with a knife or a sanding stick takes care of that. The wings are aligned with two VERY SMALL nubs on each wing. However, these don’t fit in the holes on the fuselage! Even with the holes widened, the small pegs just don’t want to fit. Thus, I trimmed them off. The good news is that the BV.40R didn’t have any anhedral or dihedral on the wing, so all you have to do is get the wings square. The same goes for the tailplane, but it’s given as a single piece anyway; just make sure it’s sitting level with the wings, and you’re good to go! The fit of the wings is quite good; however, the gun pods buck this trend. They are more roughly formed than the other components, and their fit is only marginal. They don’t match the contours of the wings or fuselage very well, and I found it necessary to do some filling to get things to look right. One area that requires particular care is the bumpers/handles near the wingtips. These could have worked as PE parts, but are given only in plastic. They are very delicate and care must be exercised in cutting them off the sprues and

installing them. Sadly, the gate tabs (there are two) on these pieces are thick and heavy. The best plan is to cut the parts and leave a bit of the tab on there, and once the bumper is glued in, you can then sand the offending plastic off. Trying to handle the unattached bumpers is hopeless; they are far too small and weak to be sanded before installation. Brengun has gone out of their way to provide a very comprehensive photoetch set with this kit. These include all control surface actuators. There are tiny pieces of brass to attach to the wings and tailplane of the model to capture these small, fine details. The brass looks very nice, but I elected to use only the cockpit hinges. I personally do not like working with PE; I find it fiddly, delicate and difficult to put in place neatly. I have yet to have a good experience with it, and since modelling is supposed to be FUN, I normally just eschew the use of PE. Of course, every modeller is free to choose whether to use the PE or not. The good news is that if, like me, you don’t want to bother with it, you’ll still get a nice model at the end of things. On the other hand, the resin racks for the R4M rockets, and the rockets themselves, are extremely nice. They are well cast and the racks fit up to the wings absolutely perfectly. I normally lump resin bits in with PE, and don’t use them. However, these really changed my opinion. Cutting the racks and rockets free from the very heavy and awkward pour stubs looks tough, but even someone of my resin inexperience did it with no problems. The key: photoetch or thin metal razor saws, like those made by Tamiya. They’re super sharp and super thin, meaning you don’t stress or break the resin while cutting. This is of paramount importance for the R4Ms, as they are extremely delicate.

Detail Issues Despite the overall quality of the product, the BV.40 R has a few issues. Not only do the gun pods not fit well, there are actually no guns in them! There are no holes or barrels, and it is called out on the instructions that it is necessary to do this. Sadly, no precise placement for said holes and barrels is provided. Drilling in the holes was not difficult, but getting them to match, side-for-side was more of a crapshoot than it could have been. Even a small depression to mark the centre of the barrel would have helped. Also, while the plans call for barrels, the cutaways of the BV.40 that I’ve seen

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1/72 This massively artificially adjusted photo gives you a feel for how the filtering works. The wing on the left is untouched. On the right, the darker areas are the result of filtering and shading the panels using pastels and Varsol.

show no protruding barrels. That’s why on my plane there are just holes. Interestingly, the barrels aren’t shown on the illustrations on the box, either. This leads to my one major concern with Brengun’s models; the box art isn’t always consistent with the instructions. This can lead to confusion on some of these more esoteric types of planes, since with real info in short supply, most builders will rely on the box for guidance. Another, more pronounced, example of this is the actual shape of the plane’s rear fuselage. The box art shows there to be a slight bulge in the rear fuselage for the rocket exhaust, similar to what’s seen on Me163 Komets. However, there’s no such thing on the kit. The “R” fuselage is identical in cross section at all points to the glider fuselage, save a very shallow hole for a rocket nozzle. There’s no way of knowing which is right but I prefer the box art idea of having SOMETHING different besides the panels to highlight the differences between the glider and powered types. To correct this, I delved into the spares box and found an ancient AIM-7 Sparrow missile. To make my newly contoured nozzle, I drilled out the existing exhaust port much larger than it was, taking part of the fuselage too. This created a triangular cut out, and into this I glued the front chunk of the Sparrow. The cone of the seeker head gave me a slight flare for an exhaust, and once it was faired in, it really looked the part! A quick drill of a new exhaust nozzle hole

and things looked much better. The only other major issue on this kit is the cockpit transparency. The BV.40 is not a plane with a lot of glass. Small side and front windows are all that there are, so most of the transparent part ends up as paint. However, it has to be glued on, and faired in, before painting. Why? Well, it’s because the line where it joins the “roof ” of the fuselage is in the wrong spot! On the real plane, the solid hood extends quite to the rear of the wing’s leading edge. If you just glue the “canopy” on when you’re done, the line is right at the wing leading edge. This is a significant difference. Sadly, the right hinge line is not marked on the kit, so I had to estimate its position and scribe it in myself. I then glued on the canopy, sanded and faired it into the roof at the wing edge, and put on the hinges. One issue I did not try to correct was that of shape. The actual canopy on the BV.40 is much lumpier at the front windscreen, where the canopy opens. This is because of all the armoured glass. However, the Brengun canopy is just the same square cross section from front to back. In the end analysis, only those with a good knowledge of the plane will notice. The rest of the world will just be surprised by the weirdness of it, and likely won’t notice this problem. One logistical problem with a glider is that there’s no good place to hold it when you want to paint it! There’s no convenient hole where a prop fits on, nor is there jetpipe into which to insert a stick. Even with the tiny rocket nozzle on there, the BV.40 R can’t be held in a conventional way. Thankfully, the German penchant for landing skids saved me! I simply took a small drill and put a hole in the forward fuselage under where the skid will be glued on. This gives me a good insertion point for a toothpick, and won’t show when I’m done.

I love Luft ’46 stuff “ because it allows me

to be creative and imaginative with things like colour schemes

This is the “true view” of the filtered wing/body vs. the “virgin” wing. It’s clear that the filtering is subtle, but there is a difference.

The nice photoetch hinges serve to highlight the new cockpit panel line.

The resin R4M rockets add a nice touch, and are very finely detailed. They are a bit tough to cut off the pour stub, but with patience and a photoetch saw, it can be very cleanly done.

”

Painting, Decaling and Finishing

The pastel and Varsol technique really worked on the underside; the panel lines are much less pronounced than just pencil and postshading alone. The resin rocket racks and rockets fit like a dream!

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The paint plan, on the back of the box, calls out the colour to be RLM 82/RLM 81 on top and RLM 76 on the undersides. I primered the plane grey with Colourplace rattlecan primer from Wal-Mart, and applied Testors Model Master Acrylic (MMA) RLM 76 to the entire airframe. I decided early on in the build that the standard, boring “green/purple splinter” wasn’t going to cut it for this build. I love Luft ’46 stuff because it allows me to be creative and imaginative with things like colour schemes, and I’ll be darned if I’m going to apply yet another “standard” scheme to a completely fictional plane! For this little plane, I decided on a blue underside with a combination of light grey and brown-violet squiggle. To

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From dead on, the BV.40 R doesn’t present much of a target. With those R4Ms and the twin gunpods, though, it could have packed a punch all out of proportion to its size!

get the blotchy, squiggly effect, I just get a fine line coming out of the airbrush and then randomly loop and move it over the plane. An effective way to do this is to cursively write your name while moving the airbrush randomly over the plane. I coin this “name-spazzing”. To get darker spots, dwell for a fraction of a second on a single spot; for lighter squiggles pull away from the plane. It is the easiest way to get complexlooking mottled cammo that I’ve yet discovered. I first applied a “name-spaz” of MMA Neutral Grey. I was a bit worried, since this did not show up very well against the RLM 76, even after repeated applications. However, it did act almost as a filter, giving tonal changes to the paint on the upper half of the plane. I have a mixed paint that is close to RLM “Braunviolet”, so I used it for the purple colour. It is much darker and a couple of passes had a very distinct purple mottle put onto the plane. At this point, I noticed that there was a bit of overspray. Normally, I would correct this. However, I reasoned that if this thing was in service, the last thing the factory or field maintenance techs would be worrying about is a bit of paint where it shouldn’t be. Thus, I just left the anomalies alone, to highlight the desperate nature of the entire craft. Once the paint was dry, I used a filed-down mechanical pencil to pick out the panel lines. I then coated the BV.40 with a couple light coats of Future to prepare for decaling. As it turns out, nothing could prepare me for the decals that came with the kit. To be fair, they are very thin and adhere very well. They are glossy, too, which is great. However, they WILL fold over on themselves, and when they do, you’re done. I had my first decal, one of the Balkenkreuzen for the upper wings, do this to me right out of the bowl of water. I spent 15 minutes trying in vain to straighten that decal back out. Eventually, I had to use the white fuselage crosses for the wing tops, and I used black crosses from the PM Me-328 V1/V2 kit for the fuselage. White crosses are not something I have spares of. The rest of the decals went fine, and now armed with the knowledge that great care was needed, I was able to finish the decaling quite easily. As a lesson; don’t get cocky, and don’t think you can fix every mistake. Unfortunately, there is a significant inaccuracy in the decals. There are two decals for the rocket fuel, one for the T-Stoff and one for the C-Stoff. This is wrong. The HWK 109-507 proposed for the BV.40 R did not use these fuels. T-Stoff and C-Stoff are hypergolic, meaning they explode when brought into contact with one another. However, this is a “hot” rocket which creates thrust through combustion. The real fuels were T-Stoff and Z-

Stoff, and this is a “cold” rocket that creates thrust through a rapid decomposition of the chemicals, but not through combustion. (“Cold “is a relative term; the plume of superheated steam created by this reaction could apparently reach over 500°C!) Thus, the “C-Stoff ” decal is wrong. Since I didn’t have a “Z-Stoff ” decal, I just opted to leave the fuel decals off altogether. Better to have nothing than have something wrong. One more coat of Future sealed the decals, and then I dulled the plane with Delta Ceramcoat Matte Urethane Varnish. At this point, I decided to do something a bit different than just apply some drybrushed pastels to provide shading. I wanted to try using filtering techniques like I’ve seen done on tanks. So, I took my light blue pastel and brushed it onto the matte undersurfaces. I then used Varsol to liquefy it and spread it more evenly around. Once dry, I did the same thing to the upper surfaces, albeit with a purple-grey pastel. It’s hard to see the difference immediately, but there was some subtle variation. After an insulating coat of matte varnish, I then applied appropriately-coloured pastels to the panel lines and using Varsol once again, liquefied them into the panel lines and just around. This gives a less well-defined look to the pastelling, and makes it more like a pre-shade. The colour buildup using this method is slow, but more subtle than my normal approach. In the end, I like what I have, but I’ll have to try it a few more times. I don’t think it works if you’re trying to build a pristine example, but seems good for “lightly used” ones. On that note, though, I found that if I applied pastels over the

panel lines and didn’t blend them with Varsol, the “filtering” made the panels less stark, and that’s definitely something useful!

Conclusions The BV.40 is a surprisingly popular subject for model companies despite its almost total obscurity and lack of any real contribution to the desperate war situation in Nazi Germany. Brengun’s original BV.40 was a good kit, though, and offered modellers a newer, finer interpretation of this machine. Brengun’s decision to go that extra mile and spin off the “R” version for us Luft ’46-ophiles was quite a surprise; one that is certainly welcome! This is a nice, small and fun kit. However, it is not without its vices, and despite its size, there are some issues that make it more suitable for modellers with at least moderate experience. To get the most out of the kit requires skills and tools that not all beginners may have. The fine photoetch and resin parts are what you’d expect in a bigger, more elaborate kit and add an extra level of challenge and complexity to those who wish to “push the limits” of the model. The great part is that you can just build it with the plastic bits and it will still look good. The BV.40 R is not a shake-and-bake kit by any means, and provides some good opportunities for modellers to do some small amounts of customizing and improvements. Overall, it is a neat little kit of an oddball little plane. I would like to thank Brengun for the sample of this kit, and our esteemed Editor for passing in along to me. Thanks to Brengun, my collection of weird German rocket planes is increasing regularly; that’s got to be a good thing!

The fine photoetch “and resin parts are

what you’d expect in a bigger, more elaborate kit

”

Good idea or grasping at straws? Either way, the use of rocket powered glider fighters was something of a German fetish, it seems! Thanks to Brengun, modellers can expand their lineup to include both the BV.40 R and the Zeppelin Rammer!

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ILYUSHIN IL-62M

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The Il-62M captured a number of endurance “and speed records and formed the mainstay of Aeroflot's fleet well into the 1980's ”

Ilyushin Il-62M Zvezda 1/144 Ilyushin Il-62M by Huw Morgan he Ilyushin Il-62M was an upengined version of the Il-62 airliner conceived against an Aeroflot Specification in 1960 which called for an intercontinental jet capable of carrying up to 150 passengers over an unrefuelled range of 11,000 km (enough to get from Moscow to Havana!). This rather challenging specification for the day was met by a design having four Soloviev D-30KU turbofan engines (the non-afterburning versions of the engines in the MiG31) mounted in pairs at the rear of the fuselage so as to keep the wing airflow as clean as possible, this together with a variable incidence T-tail. At the time of its unveiling,

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the news media accuse the Russians of stealing details of the Vickers VC10 to form the basis of the design, - in fact, in time, these accusations were completely refuted, and ironically, a number of the Il-62M's more advanced features were incorporated in later versions of the VC10. Of generally conventional appearance, the Il-62M was unusual in having a lightweight retractable-wheeled strut at the rear of the fuselage which was deployed on the ground to prevent tail-sitting under certain conditions of fuel and passenger load. The main wing was unusual in having a vortexgenerating dogtooth leading edge. The Il-62M captured a number of

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endurance and speed records and formed the mainstay of Aeroflot's fleet well into the 1980's. It was undeniably an important civil aircraft.

The Kit Zvezda's new kit comes in the now familiar hefty plain box with a printed slip-on sleeve depicting the aircraft and built-up models. There are 139 parts on 7 sprues of grey plastic, plus a single clear sprue and a two-piece stand. The single decal sheet offers 5 options although 4 are for very similar Aeroflot aircraft, the fifth being a Rossija State Transport version. Given that the Il-62M was operated by several other Warsaw pact and African countries it is a shame that no more variety is offered. The kit

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MANUFACTURER: Zvezda SCALE: 1/144 STOCK CODE: 7013 NO OF PARTS: 139 plus 13 clear and stand DECAL OPTIONS: 5

Sprue layout and decal sheet. The size of the model is deceptive, with a fuselage length of 350 mm Here's the completed cockpit painted and attached to the port fuselage. I used a home-mixed colour for the Russian blue/green

instructions are largely pictorial, with 10 major stages supported by sidebar subassembly construction, although care is needed since there are a few minor errors in part references. Colour call-outs are for Humbrol enamels only. The kit is presented as an 'ultimate model' - although this is an entirely injection moulded offering, - no etched brass, no resin. The moulding is pretty good, in rather soft plastic with very fine surface detail and commendably thin sprue attachment gates. However the fine detail can disappear if, like me, you're heavy handed with paint. The moulding of the sample kit was almost flash-free, but had distinct sink marks

along the long fuselage joints where there were locating pins. Of more concern were significantly warped upper and lower wing parts with the centre section twisted in relation to both tips. This led to lots of tweaking when fitting the flaps and ailerons in order to achieve an acceptable result. The stand is less well moulded, again having significant sink and mould knockout marks which will be awkward to fill. It's possible to build the aircraft in three physical configurations out of the box: in flight using the stand, with a clean airframe; in a landing/take-off mode with dropped flaps, high-incidence tailplane and unweighted, extended landing gear;

This is the pivoting mount for the T-tail which is trapped between the fin halves. I fixed mine at a typical resting angle Reinforcing strips on the long fuselage joint

are 139 parts on 7 sprues “of There grey plastic, plus a single clear sprue and a two-piece stand ”

Cockpit glazing fitted and masked with Two Six Silk vinyl masks. Some minor fairing-in of the lower edge is still needed.

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The parts that go to make up one engine pair

Completed engines with a reasonable representation of the compressor faces The engines fit neatly into recesses in the rear fuselage. The fit is tight enough that after a few coats of paint, I had to relieve the inner faces to get the engines to sit properly

and a 'parked' configuration with normal flaps and tail, opened passenger access door and weighted gear with the tail prop deployed. Zvezda make a strong marketing point about the inclusion of forward cockpit detail, to go along with the opened passenger door. I decided to build my model in the parked configuration, as it offers more display options, and I liked the idea of the prop holding the tail up.

Construction

This is the gap between fuselage and wing upper surface having aligned the lower surfaces as closely as possible. Plastic strip on the wing and Deluxe Perfect Plastic Putty solved the problem.

Construction starts with the undercarriage bays, actuators, and the vanes in the wing root intakes. Much of the airframe is painted Humbrol 129 Gull Grey but since I prefer to work with acrylics I chose Tamiya XF-20 as a reasonable substitute and used this for the wing internals. The wing halves can now be joined, remembering to open up the slot for the stand if you plan to display the model in flying or landing mode. In my case, I glued up the centre section first, and when it had set, progressively worked outwards with liquid poly and lots of clamps to try and cure the warping. There are 15 parts making up the cockpit, including 5 crew seats, control yokes, entrance lobby and a representation of the folding door from the lobby into the main cabin. The assembled cockpit is largely painted the ubiquitous gull grey although the instructions call for the instrument panels to be painted “emerald” (Humbrol 2). A trawl of images available on the Internet shows that these areas were most likely painted the common Russian cockpit blue/green so I concocted my own version of this using Vallejo Model Colour mid-green and turquoise. At this point the nose wheel bay (part C15) is attached to the cockpit floor, which needs some care to ensure squareness since the location of

the cockpit in the fuselage halves is controlled entirely by two small nibs on the wheel well. Before joining the fuselage halves, there's the usual airliner decision about how to represent the cabin windows. Zvezda provide some quite nice moulded clear strips of windows and a very thin, rather flexible cockpit glazing. I had some concern that the sharp edges to the window openings would make the use of my preferred Kristal Klear difficult, so I decided to give Zvezda's windows a try. The small, oval windows would be a nightmare to mask - the only credible option being to obtain pre-cut masks. I used a vinyl set produced by Two Six Silk, although Montex also make a set. Decision made, I tried unsuccessfully to fix the window strips with PVA. It may be the flexible plastic that Zvezda use for the clear sprue, but I couldn't get the windows to stick reliably. In the spirit of a review build I ended up hedging my bets and fixing the windows on one side of the fuselage with superglue, and left the other side open for later PVA treatment! Time now to add the cockpit, rear leg bay and the pivoting mount for the variableincidence tail. The tailplane mount appears to be intended as a movable feature - a bit pointless since it's only relevant to one option, so I fixed mine at an appropriate angle for a standard tailplane positioning. Also at this point a decision is needed about the passenger door - there's a recess in the cockpit bulkhead to accept it when opened although if the locating nibs are used, the door disappears completely. Removing the nibs would allow the door to be posed partially open, offering more visual interest, although complicating finishing. Before gluing the fuselage halves together I added some reinforcing strips and after joining the halves filling any

Construction starts “ with the undercarriage bays, actuators, and the vanes in the wing root intakes

Built-up landing gear and the separate parts for the weighted and unweighted options

The decals behaved well with good colour density although they release very quickly from the backing. Be prepared. These are the tricky to align wing markings.

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Would I recommend it? - Yes definitely - not one to be “thrown together, but certainly rewarding as an exercise in building rather than just assembly ”

seams and sink marks with thin superglue. Fit of cockpit glazing and masking is excellent. The engines go together without drama - and there are reasonable representations of the compressor and turbine faces to fit inside the nacelles. I added the rear turbine discs from the front after cleaning up the jet pipes. Stage 8 of the instructions fits the completed wing and engine pairs to the fuselage, although the fit of the latter is good enough that I decided to leave them off until after painting and decaling. The wing-to-fuselage joint is less good, with a 0.5mm gap. I packed the gap with plastic strip before filling. This stage also includes fitting the tail, rudder and ailerons, a nice touch is that the separate control surfaces allow them to be posed easily. Since the mounting of the tail relies on a rather skinny butt joint to the pivot mount, I left mine off until after painting. Fitting the flaps comes next, with separate components provided for normal and dropped flaps. The dropped flaps fit to the wing with rather spindly but presumably accurate actuators, and a dry fit suggested that this would result in a rather vulnerable arrangement. If you're modelling the flaps-down option you might want to leave them off for now since decaling involves significant handling. As my parked option allowed closed-up flaps I could go ahead and fit them. My previous adventures

with straightening the wing did mean that some repetitive dry fitting and scraping was needed to get them to lie properly since the kit engineering makes the fit extremely close. The landing gear is well detailed, and again, separate parts are supplied for the unweighted and weighted options. I chose to leave mine painted in Halfords Primer as a minor contrast to the Gull Grey used on the underside. The instructions call for all the wheel hubs to be painted ochre (Humbrol 83) - I couldn't find any confirmation or otherwise on the Internet so chose to trust to Zvezda's research. I used Tamiya XF-60 and Vallejo Black Grey 70862 for the tyres.

Painting and Decaling All the schemes offered in the box are essentially identical in terms of paint: gull grey wings, tailplanes and lower fuselage, white upper fuselage, and polished steel wing and tail leading edges and engine rears. I sprayed the white first, masked for the grey, and finally masked for the polished steel, making the demarcation line such that all the cheat line decal would be on the white area. Then I used Halfords gloss appliance white and Tamiya XF-20 and XF-56. I sprayed the whole airframe with Microscale Gloss before decaling. I chose the Russian State Transport option to be different. There are some numbering errors on the decal placement sheet for this version at least, so double check before committing! The decals themselves release very quickly from the backing paper, are very thin, and grab quickly. The wing-walk markers are particularly delicate and tricky to align, and I ended up cutting the long cheat lines into shorter segments, rather

than risk a tangle. I confess that I nearly lost the will to live with the myriad tiny stencils, and left the smallest off my model. A coat of a 50:50 mix of Microscale Flat and Gloss sealed the surface before adding the undercarriage, tailplane and engines. I chose not to use a panel line wash, but added some staining using pastels.

Conclusion This is a thoroughly modern kit of an interesting subject, finely engineered to very close tolerances. These close tolerances potentially mean good fit and precision, but equally, they demand precision of the builder, particularly given the very thin section of some major parts and the soft, flexible plastic that Zvezda have used. Notwithstanding the particular issues of warped parts in my case, it's clear that overly generous use of glue, casual clean-up, less than precise positioning of parts and over-enthusiastic clamping can lead to problems as the build develops, notably in the fit of the (very visible!) retracted flaps and control surfaces. It may well be that I was unlucky (or just incompetent!) since I'm aware of other built examples which look terrific, and which appear to have gone together smoothly. Would I recommend it? - Yes definitely - not one to be thrown together, but certainly rewarding as an exercise in building rather than just assembly. It'll be even more interesting if we can have some aftermarket decals! I enjoyed the build to the extent that I've raided my stash for another Zvezda Russian airliner - the Tupolev Tu-134A/B3! My thanks to Zvezda importer, The Hobby Company Limited, for the review kit.

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Mistel 1 Ju 88A-4 + Bf 109F-4 Italeri 1/72 Mistel 1 by Dick Clark he Mistel (mistletoe) composite bomb delivery system was one of the more ingenious, if somewhat desperate, inventions of the German military in WWII. Mounting a fighter atop a twin-engined bomber which had been stripped of all unnecessary gear, its cockpit section replaced with a massive warhead, the ungainly contraption was to be piloted from the fighter, the pilot having full control of both aircraft. Within visual range of the target, the pilot aimed his flying bomb at the target in a 15-degree dive, then triggered explosive bolts which separated the two AIMS DECALS set 72D014 Mistel 1 ‘early components. Whilst the pilot made a warhead’ fast getaway in his stripped-out EDUARD Mask set CX021 Bf 109E fighter, the bomb component flew on TECHMOD set 72055 Bf 109E Stencils into the target. That was the theory. In practice, it was a complicated system ALBION ALLOYS 0.1mm Nickel Silver rod wherein many components had to be brought together. Chances were that by the time the disparate aircraft had been delivered to the base from which the attack was to be launched, the conversion and arming work carried out, fuel acquired from increasingly stretched supplies, and favourable weather waited upon, the

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Air superiority was seen as an “ essential pre-requisite for the invasion of Northern Europe ”

Two views of the three separate components ready for painting to begin.

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situation at the target area had changed beyond all recognition. An attack was launched against Scapa Flow from a base in Norway, but the weather changed to confound the raiders, and anyway the Fleet had gone elsewhere, so the raid was aborted, wasting weeks of effort and resources. In the summer of 1944 the Royal Air Force threw in all it had to gain total air superiority over Northern France, attacking airfields, disrupting supply-lines and destroying the Luftwaffe both in the air and on the ground at every opportunity. Air superiority was seen as an essential pre-requisite for the invasion of Northern Europe; thus, on the 6th June one thing the D-Day forces did not have to worry unduly about was attack from the air. In fact, the Luftwaffe was unable to mount any meaningful aerial defence. Attacks by Mistel composites was seen as one of very few possibilities to strike back, although as a standoff weapon system it was not as effective as might at first be thought. The fighter pilot had to have nerves of steel to approach to about 1,200 yards before releasing in

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order to achieve real accuracy. Most were shot down before reaching their target. On the 18th June, Ju 88 CN+FK and ex-Eastern Front Bf 109 NA+YS were delivered to 2./KG 101 at St. Dizier. In the evening of the 24th the unit launched its first attack, sending four Misteln out against targets in the invasion area. The flight leader, Hauptmann Horst Rudat’s port engine was hit by German AA fire shortly after takeoff; he aborted his attack on being approached by a Mosquito, releasing his Ju 88 which turned onto its back and crashed into the sea. However, one Ju 88 exploded close enough to the Allied Command ship HMS Nith to cause sufficient shrapnel damage to the vessel for it to be withdrawn for repair. In all about 10 sorties were flown from St. Dizier, although the only other probable strike was on the old French battleship Courbier, which had already been scuppered in shallow water as part of the breakwater for the Mulberry floating harbour.

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Each component is simple “ enough and all assemble easily with very few fit problems. No filler was harmed in the making of this model!

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The model As seems to be the way with these things, and perhaps in keeping with the original concept, this model bring together two older kits with some new parts to make up the explosive warhead. This would be fine, except that the two base kits feature different types of detail, the Ju 88 having fine raised detail while the Bf 109 has rather less fine engraved panel lines. The warhead seems to get away with it, only having raised details

such as bolt heads to contend with. I understand the kit has good decals, but since I lost my set I couldn’t vouch for them personally. In any event, I wanted to depict one of the Mistel that was flown against the D-Day beachhead, so the AIMS set would probably have been chosen anyway. The kit contents also include one of Italeri’s incredibly annoying long, foldout instruction leaflets, five sides long!

Close-up of the Bf 109 prior to painting, showing the Bare-Metal Foil patches over the gun ports.

The 109 after the upper surfaces have had their basic camouflage applied, with masking prepared for the first stage of building up the mottling effect.

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Two stages further on, with the fuselage ready for the light blue.

Construction

With all masking removed, this is the result. The sides were sanded back lightly to soften the demarcations before the whole model was glossed ready for decaling and initial weathering.

I treated this as three separate components, bringing them all together after painting, decaling and weathering. Each component is simple enough and all assemble easily with very few fit problems. No filler was harmed in the making of this model! Dealing with the Ju 88 first, the fuselage/wing assembly really is simplicity itself. The only minor gripe is that the tail wheel has to be fitted before the fuselage halves are closed up, but you can barely see the internal detail, so I didn’t bother painting it too fussily. You do have to remember to drill the locating holes for the ‘trapeze’ in the upper wing halves. The instructions suggest fitting the main

The ‘trapeze’ assembled on, but not fixed to, the fuselage, so that it can be removed for painting.

Since the guns were removed from the “Mistel 109’s, I reasoned that the gun ports might have been covered over with patches, which I replicated using pieces of Bare-Metal Foil

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undercarriage legs before you assemble the nacelles; I had an experimental fiddle and decided I could fit them later (I was nearly right!). I was impressed by the way the exhaust stubs hide the join along the sides of the engine nacelles. Another hole needs to be drilled towards the rear of the upper fuselage to locate the rear support strut. Dimensions for the location of this hole are clearly shown in the instructions. The warhead was constructed next; just five parts to this, and that was set aside for painting. The 109 is a slightly more complicated build. The cockpit tub is a bit basic

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I wanted to make the Ju 88 and the Bf 109 well weathered and worn, but the warhead all nice and new

“

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although it does feature some nice sidewall detail. Having recently built the Revell 1/32 G-6 I was familiar with the painting requirements. I did briefly consider adding more pipe-work, but only briefly. I did add some masking-tape seat belts, but that was it apart from careful painting. The tail assembly joins separately to the rear of the fuselage. Evidently there were plans to make a late G version which would have required the wooden tail unit. Why they didn’t make the join around a panel line, though, is anybody’s guess. I decided I could fit this tail wheel later. The armament was removed from these 109’s to save weight, the pilots having to rely on speed to get out of trouble. So I filed away the barrels from the gun troughs on the cowling panels which, incidentally, are very tricky to fit, having no location points. Holes need to be drilled out in the wing centre section to locate the ‘trapeze’ into. I also cut away the wing guns, though I did make sure

there was a small mark where they had been, as I had plans for these points. The canopy is worth a mention. It all fits well, apart from the bottom of the windscreen where there is a gap which I filled with Humbrol Clear Fix. I do have to admit to forgetting to fit the armour screen behind the pilot’s head, but I decided my excuse for its omission was another weight-saving device! Since the guns were removed from the Mistel 109’s, I reasoned that the gun ports might have been covered over with patches, which I replicated using pieces of Bare-Metal Foil. With the three components basically built, I turned to painting.

Painting, decaling and weathering All three components were given a priming coat of Grey Acrylic Auto Primer to check for flaws. None being found, the Ju 88 was given a further undercoat of Matt Black. I wanted to make the Ju 88 and the Bf 109 well weathered and worn, but the warhead all nice and new. The 88’s were obsolete or war-weary airframes, while the 109’s were also past their prime. NA+YS bore an Eastern Front theatre band. It is not known if she also still had the yellow wingtips but I reasoned that if they hadn’t bothered to paint over the fuselage band they probably wouldn’t have done the wingtips, either. It should be noted that, as usual, all my painting was done using aerosol cans. The 109’s fuselage mottling represents my latest experiment in this respect. That’s my excuse and I’m sticking to it! The underside of the 88 was given a light coat of matt white, my intention being to polish the subsequent blue back to reveal faded areas, going through the white on the raised details to expose the black. This was not entirely successful but kind of worked. The upper surfaces were polished back to reveal the black, less successfully as I originally used too light a green,

which I should have re-covered with black. Live and learn. The Ju 88 upper splinter camouflage was sprayed using Tamiya AS-3 Gray Green and AS24 Dark Green. The underside of both aircraft was sprayed with Tamiya AS-5 Light Blue. I realised too late that the 88 should have been a darker blue … it’s faded. That, again, is my story! The solid plug for the wing light was picked out in a slightly different shade to represent a field modification for the Mistel preparation. I assume as many usable parts were salvaged as possible. After priming, the 109 yellow fuselage band and wing-tips were sprayed with Tamiya TS-47 Chrome Yellow (the rear edge of the fuselage band conveniently coincides with the tail unit joint, ensuring any trace of the join is hidden. Cunning, huh?). The upper surfaces were sprayed first with Tamiya AS-4 Gray Violet, then AS-3 Gray Green. The wing and tailplane uppers were masked off with tape and the upper fuselage with rolled Blu Tack. The inner area of the fuselage crosses was also masked off as per the AIMS instructions, as well as a few blobs of Blu Tack for the start of the mottling. Next a light coat of a pale grey (I’m not sure what I used) was applied to the fuselage sides before a few more blobs of Blu Tack were stuck on. Next up was a coat of the AS-3 Gray Violet, then more Blu Tack followed by AS-5 Light Blue over the sides and under surfaces. There is still room for improvement, but as an attempt to replicate mottling with aerosols I don’t think it’s too bad. As a last touch, the patches over the gun ports were brush-painted using Revell Aqua Color Dunkelgrn, giving a different shade of green whatever the ground crew had to hand. The warhead was sprayed AS-5 Light Blue underneath with an indeterminate mid-grey followed by AS-24 Dark Green above. I wanted this to look much newer, as it would be, but bearing in mind colours were getting a bit haphazard by this time I wasn’t being too fussy, hence the different shade of grey. The warhead was finished with TS-79 Satin Clear to enhance the ‘new’ effect and make it that little bit different to the rest of the assemblage. Both aircraft were given a light spray of TS-13 Gloss clear in preparation for decals and initial weathering. The AIMS decals behaved impeccably, settling to a painted-on look with just a light

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brushing of Micro Sol. Some of AIMS’ instructions are less clear, though. There are half-a-dozen oval markings with no placement instructions - I found likely looking moulding detail for them. I also realised too late that the white swastika decals are intended as a base for the black swastikas; I had to replace the 88 swastikas with items from a Techmod set. The hatch decal is in a different location to that shown on the instructions, simply because the hatch moulding is in a different location. The stencils on the 109 were enhanced with some additions from a Techmod 109E set I just happened to have in the spares box. The large ‘1’ on the tail of the 88 was applied after some basic weathering, so that it is a lot cleaner and fresher, since this was

whole this is a fairly simple build of a “ On thecomplex-looking machine ” applied over the original markings by the Mistel technicians. Washes were applied to the 109 using some dirty grey stuff I have in a little pot. Both aircraft were now given a coat of Tamiya TS-80 Matt Clear. Further weathering was applied by working pastels along panel lines and to replicate exhaust staining. Oil streaks were represented with drops of brown acrylic wiped back by fingertip. It’s all highly technical! A final coat of matt clear was applied to seal this all in.

Final assembly

flats sit, well, flat. One of mine isn’t quite right. The ‘trapeze’ was assembled on, but not glued to, the 88’s fuselage, then removed to be painted separately, AS-24 Dark Green. It was then glued in place on the fuselage. The ‘thing’ just in front of the tail fin was simply glued in place with CA (this turns out to be a device for catching the rear strut after release to stop it flailing about and causing damage. I don’t have a technical name for it, so ‘thing’ it shall remain). The 109 had its final details added; mass balances, tail wheel and main undercarriage, propeller and aerials. Images show the 109’s with undercarriage both retracted and deployed, so the choice is yours. The colour of the spinner is unknown; photographs only show that it was bi-coloured so, again, it’s your choice. I chose red just to add a bit of colour. Aerial wire was added using Albion Alloys’ 0.1mm nickel silver wire.

The 88 had its main undercarriage fitted, although I discovered I had to cut away the location lugs on one side to ease the legs into their wells. The main wheels have very convincing flats moulded on but you have to make sure they’re fitted so the

Conclusion On the whole this is a fairly simple build of a complex-looking machine. When I was 14 I won a local model competition with a Mistel built from two kits, some scraps of plastic and one photo for reference. 43 years on, there’s a lot more reference material available and off-theshelf kits to make this possible. I don’t think this will win any competitions, but it was a very satisfying model just the same.

References: •

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‘The Last Year of the Luftwaffe’ by Alfred Price, Greenhill Books, ISBN 1-85367-440-0

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Warpaint 101. De Havilland D.H82 Tiger Moth Author Adrian Balch takes you through the typeís history, with notes on each air armís operations, and over 90 rare, top quality colour photos illustrate some of the many colourful schemes.Also there are detailed close-ups of the salient features and various modifications made to the type. Renowned artist Richard Caruana enhances the book with more of his superb authentic colourful profiles, making this a ëmust haveí book for the modeller.

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How to Build Tamiya's 1:32 Mosquito The definitive guide to building the much anticipated Tamiya's 1:32 Mosquito FB.VI by Brett Green. This book is currently being prepared by our own Brett Green and will feature: Step by Step guide to building and painting the model Mosquito restoration close-up Historical summary Wartime reference photos.

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Flying Wings. A Visual History of the Northrop XB35 & YB-49 Flying Wings By David Doyle One hundred twenty eight pages, soft cover, over 260 black & white and color images. This highly unique title provides complete coverage of the aircraft that would become the B-2 bomberóall told completely in rare period photos, many published here for the very first time.

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Battle of Britain Combat Archive Volume 1. The series will run to around 10 Volumes and will be published quarterly. Volume Two will be published in December 2015. Volume One contains: Over 100 original wartime photos 50 combat maps 13 Specially commissioned combat scenes by Piotr Forkasiewicz, one of the worldís leading digital aviation artists. 12 new colour profiles.

Messerschmitt Bf 109 Early Versions

The monograph devoted to the early versions of the Messerschmitt Bf 109, the most famous WW2 German fighter, discusses its origins and development with coverage of changes made in its first prototypes, A-D variants and their subvariants.Hardback,108 archival photographs, 103 renders, 18 painting schemes, 32 pages sheet of scale drawings.

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This book contains fabulous colour profiles (created by Dave Windle) of all three types in different operational modes, configurations and colour schemes. Martin Bowman has written detailed descriptions and photographs to create the perfect enthusiasts reference. This enhanced and revised edition (the book was initially published in 2009) comes complete with model-making content as well as a host of brand new design features, making for a lively new addition to our esteemed Flight Craft series.

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SB2C Helldiver in Action. Warpaint 103 Avro Manchester.Complete and detailed history * 1:72nd scale plan * In detail pictures * Kit, decal and accessory list * Pages of superb colour camouflage drawings, colour, and black and white photography * Complete production list * Squadrons, units and individual aircraft serials and codes * Comprehensive specification.

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Aircraft Scale Modelling. F.A.Q. This book is a compilation of aircraft scale modelling techniques, step by step guides with hundreds of colour pictures for WWI, WWII, coldwar and modern aircraft, showing a wide range of painting and weathering techniques.380 pages, more than 2.500 images.

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Avro Shackleton 1949 to 1991 Owners Workshop Manual With a design lineage that stretches back to the legendary Avro Lancaster, the Avro Shackleton has a distinguished parentage. It first entered service with the RAF in 1951 serving for 40 years in many roles, with the last flying examples being withdrawn from service in 1991. Centrepiece of this manual is the Shackleton Preservation Trust's Shackleton MR2, WR963, under restoration in Coventry.

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Dornier Do17/Do215 The monograph on the WW2 German bombers Dornier Do 17 and Dornier Do 215 discusses their design, development and operational history.2 double A3 sheet with drawings, 24 pages A4 sheet of scale drawings, 194 archival photographs, 13 painting schemes.

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BOOKS AND MEDIA

Des Aeronefs De La Defense 1972-1999

INFO

This book is the fruit of the labours of the French group Delta Reflex, who in the introduction describe their activities as plane spotting, and making a record through the medium of photography. This book draws on the groups extensive photographic PUBLISHER: Delta Reflex archive to YEAR: 2015 present images of French ISBN: 978-2-9519527-1-3 military aircraft FORMAT: 112 pp Hard back in special schemes from 1972 to 1999. The photos show a number of retirement or squadron anniversary schemes as well as, of course, the ‘Tiger’ squadrons. If you like special markings and or the French airforce then you will find lots to inspire in this book which is in colour throughout. My thanks to The Aviation Bookshop, for supplying the review copy and from where the book can be purchased in the UK

Walk Around 7

Spitfire in my Workshop AUTHOR: David Glen If you have ever YEAR: 2015 visited the RAF Museum at PUBLISHER: Brown & Brown Books Hendon you will ISBN: 978-0952-690726 no doubt have WEB: www.spitfireinmyworkshop.net noticed in the entrance foyer the large model of a Spitfire. This book chronicles the building of this remarkable 1:5 scale model of Britain’s most iconic fighter aircraft. It takes the reader on an 11year journey, revealing in painstaking detail the myriad techniques used by a master model maker to create a rivet-for-rivet replica of the original. From cockpit instruments with needles that stand proud of their dials, to individual stitches in the rudder fabric, to air valves in the landing wheels – nothing is overlooked; nothing is compromised. In the words of a wartime pilot who flew Spitfires: “The only thing missing is the oil drop in the mirror”! Written with wit, humour and a touch of pathos, this is a book that offers a glimpse of the agony and ecstasy that is model making at this level, from despair when things go wrong to the euphoria of seeing the finished masterpiece unveiled for permanent public display at Hendon. The book is superbly illustrated with really good quality photos of the build stages and the finished model. As a model maker myself this book has made me realise again that there are model makers and then there are model makers! This book charts how one man has taken the hobby to the next level and is a really inspirational build. If you want to see more of David Glen’s work his North American P-51D Mustang, also in 1:5 scale, was unveiled at the RAF Museum Cosford in June 2014, where it can be viewed in the entrance to the Visitor Centre. David is currently working on his third giant scale model, a Spitfire Mk IX, which if his other work is anything to go by should be a stunner! Highly recommended, as an example of what can be achieved! My thanks to Brown and Brown Books for providing the review sample. The book is only available from the author’s website www.spitfireinmyworkshop.net

INFO

Decorations Speciales

XF15C-1 Stingaree Collecting Vintage Plastic Model Airplane Kits

INFO

I will start with a confession before looking at this disc - I had not heard of this particular aircraft. This disc has altered that! On the disc, as well as the background to the type there are 68 images AUTHOR: Steve Muth of it with closePUBLISHER: Peregrine Publications up detail shots of the cockpit, FORMAT: CD-ROM wheel wells etc WEBSITE: [email protected] and all the close-up details you as a modeller could want. The images of the aircraft were taken at the Quanset Air Museum, Rhode Island, with full cooperation of the museum staff. I was amazed to find 3 kits available of the type, two from Olimp and one from RVHP all in 1/72 scale, on Hannants' website. If it is available in larger scales then Hannants do not sell it! My thanks to Steve Muth for providing the review copy. For details on how to order please contact [email protected]

1094 |

NOVEMBER 2015 •

INFO

AUTHOR: Craig Kodera YEAR: 2015 PUBLISHER: Speciality Press ISBN: 978-1-58007-223-6 FORMAT: 126pp soft back

SCALE AVIATION MODELLER INTERNATIONAL

This is an unashamedly nostalgic look back at plastic kits from the '50s and '60s ad is no bad thing for it! The book starts with a brief history of the American companies and then moves on to why people collect, before taking a look at advertising and box art. Chapter 4 has personal tales of favourite hobby stores from days unfortunately long gone, whilst chapter 5 looks at what $4.98 bought you in 1956, quite a lot it would seem. Chapter 6 takes us into the space age with rockets and missiles, whilst chapter 7 takes a look at some of the real rarities in the kit collecting world; Frog Bristol Bloodhound, anyone? Chapter 8 looks at the imported kits going to America in the '50s, Airfix being a major player here. The book rounds off with a chapter on pricing and what to look out for before parting with your cash. The epilogue says it all with the line "I’ll never grow up"! This book is aimed very much at American kit collectors, with lots of the picture captions giving dollar prices on what you should expect to pay for some of the kits illustrated, some going for hundreds of dollars. If you fancy a nostalgic trip or want to dip your toe in the world of kit collecting then this accessible book will make for some good reading. My thanks to Specialty Press for providing the review copy.

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BOOKS AND MEDIA Spotlight ON

P-51D Mustang American Aces

The Ultimate Piston Fighters of the Luftwaffe

AUTHOR: Artur Juszczak

Looking through this book I was reminded of the old adage of ‘if it looks right it will fly right’ If that statement is true, not many of the types described in this book would get off the ground at all. The book takes a chapter by chapter look at some of the projects under AUTHOR: Justo Miranda development as YEAR: 2014 the Germans tried to produce PUBLISHER: Fonthill Media the ultimate ISBN: 978-1-78155-24-0 piston fighter. FORMAT: 253pp Hard back The first 11 chapters look at the designs from the rather fertile imaginations of the Blohm und Voss design team, followed by two chapters looking at the rather hideous designs from Daimler Benz, one with mid-fuselage contra rotating propellers … Dornier, Heinkel and Focke-Wulf all have several chapters each. Even Skoda has a short chapter. The book is rounded off with a look at ejector seats and then several chapters looking at the various guns, bombs and missiles that were being developed to be carried by these advanced designs. If Luft 46 is your thing, or you are just interested in the many avenues that aircraft design has taken, then this book will be of interest. My thanks to Casemate and Fonthill media for supplying the review copy.

INFO

INFO

This is from a new range of books from MMP and presents PUBLISHER: Stratus/MMP Books detailed colour profiles ISBN: 978-83-63678-79-1 of 40 Mustangs flown FORMAT: 47pp Hard back by American Aces. Most of the aircraft are represented by just one side-view showing the nose art, so one is left guessing the other side; where the other side is different the other side profile is presented too, some plan-views are also given for some of the more unusual camouflage schemes. In the centre of the book there is a giant 30 inch long, fold out profile. This however is bound into the binding of the book so cannot be removed and put on the ‘man cave’ wall. At the back of the book there are 1/72 scale plans of the type showing which parts of the airframe were left in natural metal and which parts were filled and then sprayed silver. This will be particularly useful to modellers. The profiles are superbly done and are presented one to a page, with many having larger detail images of the nose art. Personally I would have preferred to have seen three-view drawings of each scheme as I feel this would be of more use to the modeller. That said it is a book I am sure you will enjoy looking back through and is just right to inspire a P-51D build. My thanks to MMP Books for supplying the review copy. YEAR: 2015

The Boulton Paul Balliol The last Merlin-Powered Aircraft

INFO

AUTHOR: Alec Brew The BP Balliol was YEAR: 2015 conceived towards the end of the Second World PUBLISHER: Fonthill Media War and was to be ISBN: 978-1-78155-361-9 powered by a turboprop FORMAT: 128pp Soft back engine, but this was not followed through, so it became the last type to be powered by the Rolls Royce Merlin. As a trainer it served with the RAF and Fleet Air Arm as well as overseas with with the Royal Ceylon Air Force, before being replaced by all-jet trainers. This book takes you through the history of the type from the prototypes through its service life and its further developments, including a jet version. The book concludes with a look at surviving airframes and cockpit sections. If the type is of interest then this book will be a welcome addition to your bookshelf. My thanks to Casemate and Fonthill Media for supplying the review copy.

(Electronic Edition) From 1978-2004 Detail and Scale were a key addition to many modellers workbench with their range of books led by the “In detail and scale” series. Now this Bert Kinzey and his team have embraced digital publishing like no other company by launching a while new series of both the “In Detail” and “Colour & Markings” series. The first book on the Demon follows the familiar format of the originals with informative historical section that includes coverage of the types development. This is followed by a chapter featuring a personal look at the Demon from the view of the pilots that actually flew the type. Now for most modellers the next

chapters are key as they show a Demon under restoration as well as close up every area of the Demon. Now we move on to a chapter, which covers the type use by various squadrons and shows the colourful heraldry applied to the type during its service. Finally we have the modeller’s section, which covers all of the kits that have been produced off the Demon plus the accessories that are available to detail your model. This format will be familiar to anyone who has ever read a Detail and Scale book before but what has changed the amount of flexibility that the digital format gives you. These new titles are available for both the I Pad from Apple store and Kindle from

AUTHOR: Bert Kinzey

INFO

F-3H Demon Detail and Scale

AVAILABLE FROM : Apple Store and Amazon FORMAT: Digital

Amazon and once downloaded on to my device I was amazed at what I can do. The most useful is the ability to pick out any of 340 photographs and zoom in by up to 200% allowing you to see every detail. Navigation is simple and intuitive and obviously a lot of time has been spent on this to make these titles the best I have ever seen in digital format. Also of course another advantage of this digital format is that unlike conventional printed volumes which have to limit their page count based on price, Detail and Scale can basically supply as much information and as many photographs as they need in to each title, in the case of the Demon this is

over 280 pages of information. Then we have another big advantage price this amazing title is available for a real bargain price of just £7.99 or $9.99 compare that to a similar priced printed book! Our thanks to Rock Rozack and Bert Kinzey for allowing us to review this title and I cannot wait to see what will come next. Full details of the range is available on their website at ww.milavnarc.com/index.html

WWW.SAMPUBLICATIONS.COM •

NOVEMBER 2015

| 1095

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1098-BackPage-AV-1115_Layout 1 09/10/2015 13:37 Page 1098

NOVEMBER 2015

Back Page Manuel Huerta’s Work Bench – Spain ollowing your suggestions in the most recent issues of SAMI, I am herewith sending some photos of my working place. The place is in the basement of the house. Yes, there are windows and natural light: the house is built on a slope between two street levels; e.g. if entering the estate from the lower street, the first door you find after

F

Scale Aviation Modeller International

NOVEMBER 2015 Volume 21 • Issue 11

climbing a number of steps is a direct access to the basement (entry door can be seen in one of the photos attached); if entering from the upper level street, you have to go down a number of steps before reaching the main door entrance… not weird, just 'different'. Thanks a lot for the magazine. I enjoy it every month. All the best, Manuel Huerta

PRODUCED BY MEDIA HOUSE 21 Kingsway, Bedford MK42 9BJ Telephone: +44 (0)1234 211245 Fax: +44 (0)1234 325927 Email: [email protected] Use the above address for back issue orders, subscriptions, enquiries or book orders. Note that we cannot undertake research into specific or general aviation queries and that there may be some delays in responses from the contributors, as they are not based at the editorial address. PUBLISHER SAM Publications GROUP EDITOR Andy Evans [email protected] EDITOR David Francis [email protected]

ASSOCIATE EDITOR Tim Upson-Smith The editorial emails are ONLY to be used for editorial submissions. They are NOT for subscription payments or queries, back issues or Modellers Datafile orders. Please send all of these to the Media House address detailed at the top of this column. STUDIO MANAGER Jonathan Phillips PAGE DESIGN & LAYOUT Andy Folds PRE-PRESS PRODUCTION Media House PRINT PRODUCTION Headley Brothers Ltd, UK AVIATION ILLUSTRATIONS Vincenzo Auletta Chris Sandham-Bailey SCALE PLANS Chris Sandham-Bailey

SAMI TEAM

Photos (everything is in clear and absolute disarray, sorry for this) show the table (with space to share with someone else – of my three sons, only the younger one, Diego, 17, is also a modeller), the bookshelf (which also serves as a separation between the 'working area' and the 'display area', the fridge (a must for the summer modelling season), the small sofa –which is also is a foldable bed, and the glass cabinets (is this the proper expression?) where I store and display the finished models. There is an adjacent complete bathroom, so you can spend here hours or days if you wish… no need to see anyone else, except when she-who-must-be-obeyed says otherwise.

Modelling Glossary

Our look at words found in modelling (F)

alternative for the less steady handed modeller Festoon As a noun, the small amount of paint you screwdriver blade item. get on your finger when trying to pick up a Humbrol paint lid. 'Festooned' is also commonly lash Where some hot plastic has run Flashing/F rivets... with associated, for some reason, between two injection mould halves during the especially on older kits, which are often described ing process. Flashing manifests as manufactur is it Strangely, as being "festooned' with rivets". very thin wafers of plastic that can be easily always rivets that are doing the festooning! a modelling knife. with removed the that means “Festooned with rivets” simply plastic surface is covered with rivets. Flat-ended Stirrer Used like a paddle to stir paint from the bottom of the tin. Pigment can often Filler Any substance used to fill gaps, cracks and settle in a paint and it is important that it is all reso forth. Sometimes referred to as putty, such incorporated to ensure consistency of colour. substances include Squadron Green and Milliput. Coffee stirrers found in fast food restaurants are filler, a as used be That said, superglue gel can a great free source for this item. especially when used in conjunction with an be can Tippex Even accelerator, such as Zipkicker. Flying Hours Tokens given in certain Airfix kit used as a filler, for finer cracks. boxes that Airfix Club members can exchange for kits. Firkle (Alt Furckle) To rummage about. Fishing Line Used by many modellers to reproduce rigging on biplanes, it can be made taught by holding a heated metal item close but not touching the wire. Lycra thread is a good

Frisket Transparent low-tack film available in art shops and the like, particularly where airbrushes are sold. Useful for masking, particularly cutting stencils and the like. Frog An early manufacturer from the UK. Flies Right Off the Ground. Many iconic subjects still reissued under many other brands, primitive compared to today's standards. Frotter To fondle with feeling and to rummage lovingly amongst your plastic pieces, esp. when experiencing the contents of a newly opened box. (See also Snurge). Furckling To look at and fondle, a term used by the editor when he is looking at a new kit out of the box.

FS Standard Federal Standard colours (US). In model making the relevant standard is FS595A/B. Foundit The tiny part that was accepted to be lost FS colours have no names, only 5 digit codes. to the carpet-monster, then turns up a week after the finished and you've scratched a replacement build.

Copyright Warning Due to the growing misuse and breach of copyright apparent on the web Media House gives notice that no-one is permitted to reproduce in any way (in original form or ‘modified’) anything published in this, or previous editions of this magazine. All design, layout and studio photography is the copyright of Media House. All profiles, scale plans and supporting photographs are the copyright of the individual authors. None of these may be used without prior written agreement from both the author/artist and Media House. Infringement is a breach of international law, so if you see items posted on the web from this magazine other than on the official Media House website (sampublications.com) please advise the publisher immediately.

© Media House 2015 All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted (including posting to a website) in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopy, recording, or any other information storage and retrieval system, without prior permission in writing from the publishers.

1098 |

NOVEMBER 2015 •

SCALE AVIATION MODELLER INTERNATIONAL

Scale Aviation Modeller International is published monthly by Media House and is distributed to the news trade on the second last Saturday of each month. Next on sale 19 November 2015

Paul Bradley Geoff Cooper-Smith Andy Evans Andy McCabe Chris Sandham-Bailey Tim Upson Smith Alec Smith Tony Clark

CONTRIBUTORS THIS MONTH Petr Vesely Andy Brook Carmel Attard Clive Duckworth Huw Morgan Bruce Leyland Jones Mick Williams Adam Rehorn ADVERTISING SALES Rebecca Harris [email protected] DISTRIBUTION COMAG Tavistock Road, West Drayton, Middlesex UB7 7QE Tel: 01895 433600 NORTH AMERICAN DISTRIBUTION Disticor 695 Westney Rd South, Suite 14, Ajax, Ontario, Canada L1S 6M9 Tel: + 1 (905) 619 6565

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1:72 DOUGLAS DAKOTA Mk.III & WILLYS JEEP

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Douglas Dakota Mk.III & Willys Jeep

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Described by General Eisenhower as one of the four weapons that helped the Allies to win the Second World War, the Douglas DC3 and its military variant the C-47 Skytrain (Dakota in RAF service) has since gone on to be an instantly recognizable symbol of both air travel and the liberation of occupied lands that so characterized the Second World War. Continuing to serve even today in both modernized and original formats, the DC3/C-47 is now seen as a pioneer of air travel. The Willys Jeep, officially designated Truck, ½-ton, 4x4, is the best known of all the American vehicles of the Second World War. Originally intended to be a command and reconnaissance car, it became the most versatile of all vehicles. Able to be armed with machine guns and to tow small artillery pieces, the Jeep was essential to the Allied war effort.

Douglas Dakota Mk.III™: Length 273mm Width 400mm Pieces 142

Willys Jeep: Length 47mm Width 24mm 10 CWT Airborne Trailer: Length 35mm Width 21mm 75mm Pack Howitzer M1: Length 57mm Width 19mm Total pieces of the three 71

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