Woodsmith #175 (Feb-Mar 2008) 3-In-1 Bookcase Plans

Vol. 30 1

A Publication ofAu

Unique, open-miter joinel and contrasting wo Is give -hino 'nok boxes a very eyf Who says kitchen storage can't have style? That'! what this project is all about. These three attractivl containers are designed to hold some of your basic - -z %W kitchen necessities - two tall boxes (one to hold 100 5 k w ~ e crG r~ knives and one for utensils) and a recipe box for a safe nsting safekeeping of the most-prized familyfavorites. for sharp knives. R - ,utas you can see, the woodworking in this proj -;l= ---.- ,f -goes beyond the basics. Each container starts a -- -

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a straightforward, mitered box. Contrasting walnutnes add strength to the joints. But then things takeg a sllghtly different turn. Using a simple technique, thei decorative splines are exposed at the corners. Whatyou get is some very interesting woodworking and athoroughly unique look. And my favorite part of the project is that from first cut to fini only talking a couple of days.

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MITERED BOXES. You'll want to start by building the basic mitered boxes, as shown above. The construction of all three is almost identical. The knife and utensil holder differ only in size. The recipe box has a hinged lid, but it's simply built as part of the box and then cut free after assembly. So the only dfierence here is that you'll need to add a top panel. THE MITERS. The four sides of all the boxes are cut from W-thick maple. (You may have to glue up panels for the two tall boxes.) After planing the stock to thickness, I cut the four pieces for each box to height and rough length, making sure I had a square edge on each piece.

The square edge is used for the next step - mitering the pieces to length. The technique I used is shown in the box below. The key to a tightly mitered assembly is to make sure the opposite sidesof each "ox are exactly the same length. So -3ther than use the miter gauge to feed the narrow pieces past the tilted blade, I used the rip fence as my guide and an end stop. This makes it much easier to get square and accurately sized pieces. SPLINES. Once you're satisfied with the miters, you can start on the spline joinery that strengthens the joints (detail 'a' above). You'll find an in-depth discussion of this table saw technique on page 38.

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BOllOMS & TOP. Now before assembling the splined joints, you have a few more parts to fit. First, each box needs a 1/4" plywood bottom panel. And as I mentioned, the rr ipe box also gets a Yi" solid walnut top panel, as shown in detail 'c'. To fit these panels, I cut a groove near the bottom (or top) edge of piece using a standard blade on the table saw. And after cutting the panels to size, you'll need to "clip" the corners so they'll clear the splines (detail 'b'). ASSEMBLY. Now comes the asser bly. The best course here is to not bite off too much at one time. Assemblmg each box in stages, as shown below, works the besl

This simple jig cradles the bo as you pass each corne~ v ethe r sav blade. See page ?8 for morc

supports the box at a 45' angle as I pass each corner over a thin kerf saw blade (marginphoto). The key to the technique is that the thin kerf blade allowed me to a clean, centered, %'-wide slot muItiple passes. You make a _s,then flip the box end-for-end for a second pass, ensuring a ed slot. It worked well and the slots only required a little cleanup of the waste left at the bottcm (shop tip below). You'll find mor :tails on using the jig on page 2t TRIM THE CORNERS. To com] 2 th~ look, the corners of the boxer -trimmed off at 45'. This soften corners and accentuates the s anc ?wa' ines they reveal. 1

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Figure 1 above shows the details I simple tilted the table saw b and used the rip fence to control :depth of cut. But you will have w reposition the rip fence for each different size box. CHAMFER. The final stop is lere, I ' bd a router

&amfer bit and eased the rest of= he sharp edges (Figure2). I a %$ chamfer around the top and 3m outside edges of all three. vv,,~~ The . inside top edges of the: knife and utensil box also get a g M e r . You'll have to completek 1- 'nside come act ,E - -

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ALSO NEEDED: 12" x l2"sheet $"Maple p l ~ w o o d

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The same goes for cutting the tenon on the end of the leg that will fit into the arm mortise. Once the joinery is complete, the tapers can be cut to form the final shape for the legs. The box at the bottom of the opposite page will help you ~ i t all h these operations. RAILS. After you've f i s h e d the joinery and shaped the legs, two side rails and a front rail come next. They all have the same mitered tenons as the back rail. And when the rails are ready to go, you can dry-fit them into the back frame assembly and front 'egs. This is the time to check the i t of all the joints before glue up. FRAME ASSEMBLY. When you're satisfied with the fit of the joinery, you can get out the clamps and begin gluing the rails and front legs to the rear frame assembly. I started by gluing the front rail between the two front legs. Then I added the side rails to connect the rear and front assemblies. You can use the top of your table saw for glue up. This makes it easier to make sure all the legs will sit flat once the glue dries. And it's during glue up that you'll want to double-check to make sure everything is square and the joints are drawn tight. Then, while the glue was setting up, I worked on the four comer brackets. BRACKETS. You can see in detail d' on the opposite page that the

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corner brackets are pretty simple. The ends are mitered to connect to the rails. And four counterbored holes are drilled for the screws. You can see the jig I used to drill the holes in the photo at right. (Refer to Shop Notebook on page 28 for more details.) ARMS. The box below and details 'b' and 'c' on the opposite page will help you make the two arms. You'll drill a shallow mortise to fit over the tenon on the front legs. A notch fits around the rear legs and the arm is secured with a screw that's hidden by a plug, as shown in the drawings above. Now, you're ready to move on to the final step of adding the seat.

the plug, then sand it smoK4

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You don't have to be a professional upholsterer to make a comfortable seat for this chair. I used an easy combination of elasticized webbing, foam, and fabrics. You can find out where to purchase all the supplies in Sources on page 51. The process of making the seat is shown in the photos at right. It all starts with the completed seat f Ime. It's the foundation for i webbing that supports the foam and fabric for the cushion. WEBBING. I used four strips of webbing, evenly spaced across the frame. Cut the webbing 2" shorter than the distance between the grooves. This lets you stretch the webbing tight later. CLIPS. Now attach a clip at each *- end of the strips. I found this easy -' to do with a vise. This forces tiny -"teeth in the clips to bite into the A webbing for a secure connection. FASTEN WEBBING. Next, use a screw to fasten one end of the webbing in the groove in the seat frame. Then use an awl to pull the webbing across the frame until the clip slips into the opposite groove. A screw will secure it in place. FOAM. I found that the bandsaw made short work of cutting the foam to fit the frame. I also cut a 1"bevel around the top edges by tilting the table to 45'. LAYERS. A staple gun is the tool choice for attaching the upholstery. And you'll use the same process -s you attach the layers of batting, _-~uslin, and fabric. Starting in the center, begin folding the edge of the cloth over and fastening it to the bottom of the seat frame with staples. Repeat this process on the remaining sides. pulling the cloth tight to remov wrinkles as you work. You'll have to fold ana tuck tne comers of the upholstery fabric for a smooth fit (bottom right photo). Finally, you can fasten the seat tc the chair frame with screws

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Cut the foam t o shape then use spray adhesive t o fasten it t o the seat frame. Then you're ready t o add t h e batting.

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The corner brackets for the armhair on page 20 add strength ro the coAe; joints of the chair frame. To make it easier to atach the brackets to the frame, I lrilled angled counterbores for he screws. The jig shown on the ight makes this an easy task. The drawing at right shows tow the jig is built. The base and )ack are screwed together. A tri- mgular brace keeps the assem-

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FOURTH: Attach brace

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e cleat. Then hold the top of the racket to keep it steady while :re drilling the holes.

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bladePtogether, this stationary on the top saw while the boxes slide along the supports. difficult. The jig you see below is M e r building the jig, you'll all you need to do the job. need a kerf in the base for the saw The jig is simply two angled I did this by centering the blade. supports attached to a hardboard clampine it jig over the blade and base. But using this jig is differ-

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When you're ready to cut the kerfs in the corners of the boxes, you should raise the blade just shy of the spline. After making an initial pass, turn the workpiece end for end and make another pass. This centers the gooves in the corners. c in ally, clean out any remaining waste and sand the edges

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~ u c hmaterial to b d d the jigs, Ihey're dl made from 3/4" plywood. IlnL-shaped notch is cut into each ,-g using a band saw. The drawings in the right margin give you the final dimensions I used to cree each jig. The jig slides a --%st your ~avlt. saw's rip fence, hile the stop )ositionsthe blank and holds it at the correct angle while cutting the taper on your table saw. USING THE JIGS. Once the jig is built, cutting thetapers isjust a matter of ~ i n itgto guide theblanks through the saw.But because only theinside faces of the leg are tapered, you'll need to pay close attention to the sequence and orientation of the leg blank when you cut the tapers. To use the jig, begin b; setting the rip fence a little wider than the jig and cut a taper. You should be a little outside of your layout line. Then, you can adjust the fence to sneak up on the line. When you're satisfied with the results, go ahead and cut the others. CONTROL The key to cutting tapers is to always maintain control of the workpiece. I used double-sided tape along the inside edges of each jig to hold the blanks, which allows ie to keep my hands a safe distance fromthe blade, This way dl you have to concentrate on is keeping the jig against the rip fence as you push it past the blade.

UPPER LEG JIG -

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a-my-r~om"~ore inviting. Butfid,g :-bookca~ to your )om's decor cag be a chdenge. project soli& that problem. It starts yjth a basic case design. -6211 create -three different F8 swles just by addin - e few details. . . m e r the Lagc case & assembled rith simple joinery, you Can add b F - esign elements to create three , adds stability. Finally bwer ~ - - r s tyles: traditional (main photo), with simple and fast n&ef-hnle : on the h-aditional-style bookcase h ~untry(lower left) or Crafsman- joinery for strength. - tyk @wer right). Adding Then,to mðe bookcast kre add more versatility. % Whatever style suits fundimal, there are two adjustdetails is an easy task. F i instance, shelves in the top and-bottom appreciatethestraightforwardcol W - the f; frame and the base of %=able i Craft an mw are assembled =

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edfinish n&e c t GBnbination >r a country feel:

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n m a supported by - corbels and gentle - curves on the face frame and base m a t e a Craftsman

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NOTE: Back panels differ between style: See cutting diagram for

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made up of two plywood sides, a top, bottom and center shelf that are all the same size, and a frame and panel back. Later, a face frarrwill be added to the front to covt the plywood edges. _. SIDES. I started by cutting tE :-4mm sides to size. Once that's done, yo can cut the dadoes for the top, bob tom, and the shelf. Finish up with a rabbet on the back edge to hold ss -- the back panel (detail 'a') - - - The next step is to drill r l w ~ e I(--s =- the adjustable shelves.It's easier i -mark the holes for the shelves no1 =while you can still lay the worl pieces side by side on a bend SHELVES. With the sides done, k can cut the top, bottom and cer ter shelves to size. These piecc are cut slightly narrower tha ' les to make room for the wacl . ~the t rabbets on the ends (deta, ' at right). These rabbets form tongue to fit in the dadoes in tk les. During glue-up, these piecc will sit flush at the front, leaving %"-deep recess at the back for th ck frame and panel asseml: ISSEMBLY. Once you have snelves and sides ready, the asserr hlrr is pretty easy. The shelvc : glued into the dadoes on th sides (see detail W). Then yo can square up the case and appl clamps at the joints. FRAME AND PANEL BACK. - 3I mer tioned earlier, the back of th bookcase is built using frame an panel construction (see drawin at right). Plywood panels fit int grooves cut in the rails and stile as you can see in detail 'c.' (Th nels for the country-style bookcase are made from beadboard.) -fore assemblingt bkame, I alt )bet along the s 3 to mat

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ton the sidc letai 'a'). After assemblingthe frame am panels, you can glue and nail thc back in p l ~ rI also ~ f-tsned thr lter rail he fixec elf. Thi

frontand sides that you used on the base. To fasten it to the case a little glue and a few clamps are all you need. You'll have to watch that the top doesn't move out of position as you tighten the clamps. The find step is to add cove molding around thetop just under the top panel (detail 'a'). To make this molding, I used a cove molding bit in the router table. I routed the profile on a wide blank then ripped it ~IWon the table saw. ADJUSTABLE SHELVES. AIl that'sleft to complete the bookcase is to add the two adjustable shelves. If you look at detail 'b,' you'll notice that the t rim on the front of them is a little different than the bullnose trim you used earlier. But the procedure is the same. You'll rout the profile after gluing the hardwood edging to the shelf, using a spacer under the shelf while muting. See the right drawing at the bottom of the opposite page, FINISH. I decided to USE a "twotom" finish for the bookcase. I painted the beadboard panels a lighter shade than the ~ s ofi the case for a unique look. See Sources on page 51 for the colors I used.

D sue, cut-me slors an Dotkerns to ace$ the tcg~@&s a n t g e n ~ piece<[detail %a:t rigKt). T1 attach&hnt and back ed@% - Lide the slots, the,gntrim it = . The panel en&&e p* 'wa fBnn fits the groove bu'll needto &&e tongue back a the enc~Zto fit be%% the edging ,detail 'c'). Bow you can gl& rails to &e plywoad panel. 5 You're r e a & ~ iattach the toI: he case S s e d a dowel centg&G gating the holes in ketop. and cl@+) the @ tn the r els, as shai I detail ' --

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case rests -on a base t h a ~ ssembled using pocket hole joir ry. A plywood panel and cleats old the base to the shelf ur BOTTOM PANEL I started on the bi LEGASSEMBLY. 1 ~cmaclr 5 ~vlyco -y cutting the bottom panel to sL,. Then apply the mitered edging to sists of six pieces. I started with the the panel and trim it flush.A small front of the assembly -an arched chamfer routed around the three apron piece (see detail 'c' below) finished sides of the panel will fin- and two side stiles. The sides are i& it up (detail 'b' below). Use a cut and attached to the front piece, few screws to attach the bottom and then the back is added. Once -anel to the case before moving on the leg unit is complete, you can attach it ' 'he base panel using to the leg assembly -

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to do now shelves. I wood edging to the front edge tu hide the plywood and give the shelf some it's time to

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ails and stiles tc

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Back Frame Btm Rail (1) Face Frame Stlles (2) M Face Frame Top/Btm Rail N Face Frame Ceni ,z n Top Panel E+n Cove Trim (1 Bottom Panel Edging (1) Door Stiles (4) 5 Door Ra~ls(4) T Door Panels (2) " Mac--' Block (1) Doa )p (1)

to align with the magnet.

Adj. Shelf Edg~ng(i Leg Brace (-' Corner Brac (8) Shelf pir (12) 1'h" Pocke

(2) % la. Rare-Earth Maqne (2) #6 x %" Fh Woodscre\ ?rs Assemblies

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3/4 x 2%- 11 % x 1 2 % -2o5h 3/4~13/4

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Greater strength, easie good reasons to add a Tightly mitered comers look great and are a real woodworking feat. But mitered corners have a weakness -literally. Whlle a miter joint hides the end grain of the mating pieces, it also relies on end grain for its gluing surface. In solid wood, this doesn't produce a very stron glue joint. This, on top of the hass of assembling this "non-locking joint, can make using- miter joints bit of a challenge. ADD A SPLINE. But there's an easy fix to this problem. I use a time-tested technique to add a spline across

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saw -creating the splineslots and cutting the splines to fit them. SOME BASIC INFO. Before getting into the technique involved, it's helpful to know a bit about the "mechanics" of the joint. The drawing at left illustrates this basic information. First, notice that the slot is cut near the heel of the mitered face. Tlus allows you to cut a deeper slot to hold a longer spline.Agood rule of thumb is to place the slot about ?/s" from the edge of the heel. The depth of the slot can vary depending on the thickness of the naterial. The goal is to maximize the length of the spline without

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weakening the workpieces. Most often I cut a slot that extends through about one half to two thirds the thickness of the workpiece. Finally, the spline itself should be made with the grain running across the joint. This has two benefits. It keeps the grain direction of the spline and the workpieces consistent so wood movement won't be a problem. And more importantly, a crossgrain spline creates the strongest joinf (see margin drawings on the opposite page). SET UP THE SAW. Once the miters are cut on all the pieces, the next step is to cut the slots in the mitered XT

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ting the slots, you want to focus on two goals. They should be perfectly aligned across the joint and square to the mitered faces. The drawing on the right side of the opposite page shows how to set up the saw for the job. The first step is to tilt the saw blade to 454 if it isn't already.When you pass the workpiece across it with the mitered face oriented opposite to the tilt of the blade, you'll get a perpendicular slot. Now you're ready to set up the rip fence. It's positioned alongside the blade to locate the slots accurately and ensure they line up. The tip of the miter simply runs along the fence as you make the cut. For this to work, the blade has to tilt away from the fence. So depending on the tilt direction of your saw, you may have to move the fence to the other side of the blade. You can position the fence by using a mitered workpiece. I mark the location of the slot on one of the miters and then line up the marks

with the saw blade. Just nudge the fence over until it touches the-tip of the miter and lock it down. You still need to adjust the blade height, but the only reliable way to do this is with test cuts. So at this point, just make sure the blade isn't too high before starting the cuts. MAKE THE CUTS. There are two ways to feed the workpiece, depending on its size and shape. If the mitered edge is long, and the piece is narrow, I simply run it across the blade using only the rip fence as my guide. Otherwise, I always use the miter gauge. Just be sure to keep the mitered tip tight against the fence and the workpiece flat against the saw table. A backup piece or auxiliary miter gauge fence will control chipout at the end of the spline slot. This is the method I use most often. For a different take, check out the jig in the box below. THE SPLINES. Once the slots have been cut, the final step is to make the crossgrain splines to fit them.

t-Cu If you need to cut spline slots in lots of small pieces (like the kitchen containers on page 16), you might want to try this jig. The idea is that rather than tilt the saw blade, the workpiece is tilted. As you can see, the fence captures the mitered end to accurately position the slot. The beveled support keeps the workpiece "on angle" as you slide it along the jig (detail 'a'). Since the workpiece is trapped between the fence and the support, the jig is built to accomrnodate a single thickness of stock.

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Position support based on thickworkpiece

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WORKPIECE

The spline is the workhorse of this joint, so sizing it correctly is important. It should slide easily, but snugly, into the slot. And if the ends of the spline will be exposed, you want them to fill the width of the slot completely when the two mitered pieces are assembled. The two drawings below show you how to make the thin splines safely and accurately. The trick is to start with a short (along the grain) blank that's a bit wider than the length of the slots the splines need to fill. First, you'll cut the splines to thickness, as shown in Figure 1.You can get four splines from the blank by making a cut at each corner. Next, I mark the length of the splines, reposition the rip fence, and cut them from the blank (Figure 2). Justbe sure to cut them loose to the outside of the saw blade. After checking the fit of the splines, you're ready for assembly. Once the glue dries and the splines are trimmed flush, the joints will surely stand the test of time. 1

6 Weak Spline. A long grain spline can easily split along its length.

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Much Stronger. A crossgrain spline is guaranteed against splitting and creates a strongerjoint.

workpiece, you can also use it as guide for a pattern bit. This allows you to trim the part to size after cuC

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looki"& sturdbarrd straightfoi%ard to build- these &Srs havexgiithing you could ask_foKThe ea?\l-Tm4ow plans beoin on page 20.

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C~nfainrns. Dress up your kitchen with this unique of storage boxes and get a twin benefit. You'll learn a great

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3-in-1 B m h e . The thiee bookases above al

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