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delicious. MAY 2014 | VOTED AUSTRALIA'S BEST FOOD MAGAZINE CURTIS STONE New LA restaurant ALEX HERBERT Hot autumn ﬂavours BEN SHEWRY Where chefs reall...

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MAY 2014 | VOTED AUSTRALIA'S BEST FOOD MAGAZINE

delicious. DINNER PARTY S.O.S. Valli’s easy menus to the rescue

BEST OF THE BLOGS Gluten-free baking ideas

Valli's chai cake with ginger cream-cheese icing & pomegranate syrup

THE

30 classic cakes, on-trend tarts & hearty pies

CURTIS STONE New LA restaurant ALEX HERBERT Hot autumn ﬂavours BEN SHEWRY Where chefs really eat

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WARRANTY*

editor’s letter.

the hit list The decadent chocolate hazelnut torte from Sydney’s Flour and Stone (p 33). And if you head to the bakery, don’t miss the luscious panna cotta-soaked lamington.

As the cool weather arrives, assistant food editor Warren Mendes’ one-pot meatballs with risoni (p 79) are on my list for easy weeknight comfort food.

Join us for a special delicious. does cooking class (p 17) with baking queen Anneka Manning as she guides you through some of the recipes from this month’s Cooking School feature (p 68).

The art of baking is deﬁnitely making a comeback, which is no surprise when you consider all the excellent reasons to spend an afternoon measuring, mixing and stirring. Whether you’re engaging in a bit of kitchen therapy, want to impress at a dinner party, or plan to treat your mum to something special for Mother’s Day, you’ll ﬁnd the recipes you need in our ﬁrst baking issue. There’s Valli’s gorgeous cover cake, inspiration from Anneka Manning’s BakeClub and heirloom dishes from Sydney’s Jewish community. Plus, don’t miss chef Alex Herbert’s take on her favourite autumn ingredients, or our glimpse inside Curtis Stone’s new LA restaurant, Maude, named after his grandmother… now there’s a ﬁtting Mother’s Day tribute.

Danielle Oppermann, Editor

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Cover stories 10

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The Test Kitchen uses meat supplied by Hudson Meats; hudsonmeats.com.au

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The baking issue This month we have gorgeous cakes, tarts and pies in abundance, including our spectacular cover chai cake. Alex Herbert’s hot autumn ﬂavours Sydney chef Alex Herbert shares her top seasonal ingredients in our new feature, Hand Picked. Dinner party S.O.S. Valli Little’s failsafe entertaining menus.

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Curtis Stone’s new LA restaurant Aussie chef abroad Curtis Stone shares a taste of his citrus-themed menu from new LA restaurant Maude. 92 Best of the blogs: gluten-free baking Our favourite gluten-free blogs and baking recipes. 140 Ben Shewry: where chefs really eat This month’s Locavore, Attica’s Ben Shewry, shares his top spots on Victoria’s Bellarine Peninsula.

Eat 33

Hotspots The best bakery and deli dishes from Sydney’s Flour and Stone, Smith Street Alimentari in Melbourne and Butterﬁngers in Adelaide. 68 Cooking school Sydney author and food editor Anneka Manning invites us to her new cooking school, BakeClub. 76 Daily special Seven global-inspired weeknight dinners ready in less than 30 minutes. 84 Exclusive extract Sydney’s Monday Morning Cooking Club share treasured recipes by Jewish home cooks from all corners of the globe. 119 Easy does it Quick autumn slices, just like Grandma used to bake. 122 Balancing act Gluten-free eating under the spotlight in our new health column.

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Escape 126 Global ﬂavours Authentic Cambodian food, from street food to David Thompson’s new restaurant. 136 Postcard Plan a foodie getaway to SA’s Kangaroo Island and sample the island’s unique produce. 138 24 hours in Santa Barbara Coffee, wineries and fresh oysters in California.

Regulars 7 12 15 17

Editor’s letter Menus Inbox Out & about Join us this month in Sydney for two special cooking classes with Anneka Manning from BakeClub (see also Cooking School, p 68).

Produce Awards 2014 Photos from our ﬁnal showcase dinner at Sydney’s Rushcutters. 29 Insider The latest food trends, books and restaurant news. 38 What to drink when Sticky wines are a great dessert accompaniment explains Andrea Frost. 40 5 reasons to… Matt Preston shares his love of Indian cuisine. 48 Subscribe to delicious. Upgrade to our exclusive food hamper package. 148 Recipe index 153 Next month in delicious. 154 Secret address book Michelin-starred Australian chef Skye Gyngell’s top foodie spots in London and further afar.

68 99 Jamie Oliver exclusive section 100 Jamie’s May mash-up With the cooler weather approaching, Jamie looks to late-season vegetables to create warming comfort-food dishes. 106 A slice of heaven Jamie turns up the heat with his terriﬁc tarts, including classic treacle and salted banoffee.

cover recipe.

chai cake with ginger cream-cheese icing and pomegranate syrup Serves 15 This recipe makes a large layer cake to entertain a crowd, but can also be halved to make a smaller cake to serve 6-8. 2 chai tea bags 300g unsalted butter, softened 2 cups (440g) caster sugar 6 eggs 2 cups (300g) self-raising ﬂour 1 tsp ground cinnamon 1 tsp ground cardamom 1/4 tsp ground ginger 1/4 tsp ground clove Ginger cream-cheese icing 250g cream cheese, softened 150g unsalted butter, softened 1/4 cup (60g) brown sugar 4 cups (600g) icing sugar, sifted 2 tsp ground ginger 1/2 tsp ground cinnamon, plus extra to serve

Preheat the oven to 170°C. Grease and line two 22cm springform cake pans. Place the tea bags in a jug with 1/2 cup (125ml) boiling water and set aside to cool. Beat the butter and sugar with electric beaters for 5-6 minutes until thick and pale, then add the eggs, 1 at a time, beating well after each addition. Sift in the ﬂour and spices, and mix well to combine. Remove and discard the tea bags and slowly add the cooled tea to the batter, beating constantly. Divide batter evenly between the pans, spreading to even the surface, then bake for 45-50 minutes until golden and a skewer inserted into the centre comes out clean. Cool the cakes in the pans for 10 minutes, then turn out on to a wire rack to cool completely. For the icing, beat the cream cheese, butter, brown sugar and icing sugar using electric beaters for 6-8 minutes until

smooth and voluminous. Add ginger and cinnamon, and beat to combine. For the pomegranate syrup, place a pomegranate half, skin-side up, in a sieve over a bowl, and use a wooden spoon to bash the skin so the seeds fall into the sieve and the juice into the bowl. Repeat with the remaining pomegranate half. Reserve the seeds and place the juice in a saucepan with the sugar and 1/2 cup (125ml) water, then stir over low heat until the sugar dissolves. Increase the heat to medium and simmer for 3-4 minutes until reduced by half and a syrupy consistency. Add the reserved seeds to the syrup and set aside to cool. Place one cake on a serving plate and spread with half the icing. Top with the other cake and spread the remaining icing over the top. Drizzle over syrup and dust with cinnamon just before serving. d.

RECIPE VALLI LITTLE PHOTOGRAPHY JEREMY SIMONS

STYLING DAVID MORGAN

Pomegranate syrup 1 pomegranate, halved 1/2 cup (110g) caster sugar

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Mix and match recipes from this issue to create a rustic dinner party with a hint of spice, a warming autumn lunch for Sunday at home, and a brunch to spoil Mum this Mother’s Day.

spice route Farro salad with shanklish

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Green harissa chicken with baked couscous

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Ginger creams with poached plums

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autumn’s best Carrot soup with herb puree and prosciutto crisps

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Pork with prosciutto & apricots

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Upside-down apple & almond cake with pistachios

mother’s day brunch Onion & goat’s cheese tarts

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Caramel walnut slice

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Lemon curd on brioche

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delicious. EDITOR Danielle Oppermann [email protected] FOOD DIRECTOR Valli Little [email protected]

ART Art Director Shannon Keogh [email protected] Senior Designer Kate Skinner [email protected] FOOD Assistant Food Editor Warren Mendes [email protected] Food Assistant Sarah Murphy [email protected] Food Enquiries [email protected] Senior Editor Matt Preston Contributors Jill Dupleix, Andrea Frost, Bill Granger, Lizzie Loel, Hilary McNevin, Jamie Oliver, Stephanie Westcott, Simon Wilkinson NSW Sales Director Paul Blackburn (02) 8045 4666 NSW Group Sales Directors Nicole Bence (02) 8045 4644, Sam Tomlinson (02) 8045 4676, Belinda Miller (02) 8045 4651 Group Sales Partnerships David Rogers (02) 8045 4741 VIC Sales Director Kim Carollo (03) 9292 3204 VIC Group Sales Directors Sally Paterson (03) 9292 3217, Lisa Mikkelsen (03) 9292 3206, Astrid White (03) 9292 3222 QLD Sales Director Rose Wegner (07) 3666 6903 SA Advertising Representative Maree Marasco (03) 9292 2749 WA Advertising Representative Bronwyn Robinson (08) 9326 9806 Classiﬁeds Advertising Rebecca White 1300 139 305 Commercial Intergration Manager Kate Corbett (02) 8045 4737 Commercial Integration Executive Caitlin Grifﬁth-Pecset (02) 8045 4744 Advertising Creative Director Richard McAuliffe Advertising Creative Manager Zoe Tack Senior Art Director, Creative Services Lisa Klaus Production Director Mark Moes [email protected] Production Manager Neridah Burke [email protected] Ad Production Manager Katie Nagy (02) 8045 4923; [email protected]

Printed by Hannanprint, 8 Priddle Street, Warwick Farm NSW 2170 under ISO14001 Environmental Certiﬁcation. Paper ﬁbre is sourced from certiﬁed forests and controlled sources.

EDITORIAL Deputy Editor Shannon Harley [email protected] Senior Subeditor/Online Editor Lara Zilibowitz [email protected] Junior Subeditor Heidi Finnane heidi.ﬁ[email protected] Editorial Coordinator Amy Pagett [email protected] Editorial Enquiries (02) 8045 4909, [email protected]

Publisher ABC Magazines Liz White [email protected] Publishing Editor ABC Magazines Marija Beram [email protected] Commercial Manager, Food Laura Lane [email protected] Marketing Manager Anthony Whittle [email protected] Brand Manager Renee Gangemi [email protected] Marketing Assistant Lucy Johnston [email protected] Group Circulation Manager, Food Sheri Mohamed [email protected]

Enquiries: Locked Bag 5030, Alexandria, NSW 2015, tel: (02) 8045 4909, email: [email protected]. Melbourne Ofﬁce, HWT Tower, Level 5, 40 City Rd, Southbank, Vic 3006, tel: (03) 9292 2000. delicious. is published by NewsLifeMedia Pty Ltd (ACN 088 923 906), 2 Holt St, Surry Hills, NSW 2010, tel: (02) 9288 3000. NewsLifeMedia Pty Ltd is a wholly owned subsidiary of News Limited (ACN 007 871 178). Copyright 2013 by NewsLifeMedia Pty Ltd. All rights reserved. “ABC” and the “Wave” device trademark are used under licence from the Australian Broadcasting Corporation. Colour separations News PreMedia. Distributed by Gordon and Gotch Australia Pty Ltd, tel: 1300 650 666. No material may be reproduced without prior written permission of the publisher.

ISSN 1448-4455

Chief Executive Ofﬁcer Nicole Shefﬁeld Group Publisher, Food Fiona Nilsson General Manager, Commercial Development Marcus Williams Commercial Director Prue Cox Director of Communications Sharyn Whitten Marketing Director Diana Kay General Manager, Retail and Circulation Brett Willis Subscription Enquiries 1300 656 933; [email protected]

Send your emails to [email protected] or write to us at Locked Bag 5030, Alexandria, NSW 2015.

LETTER OF THE MONTH I made Valli’s apple frangipane tart with salted caramel sauce (Kitchen Diary, Mar 14, p 56) and it proved to be a hit as a quick but impressive dessert. A friend who is currently caravanning in the Northern Territory asked me for a dinner-party dessert she could make in her tiny kitchen and the tart immediately came to mind. It was an absolute winner for her, too. Michelle Elliott, Sydney, NSW Ed’s note: Congratulations, Michelle! You’ve won a Maggie Beer gift pack, valued at $300. Visit: maggiebeer.com.au.

MEMORY LANE Looking through the April issue, I came across the self-saucing chocolate pudding (Wicked, p 68), which is similar to the one my 83-year-old mother used to make when we were kids. It brought back some great memories – we used to drown it in cream and she always used the same dish, I actually think she still has it. I know what I’ll be making this weekend. Kathy Chambers, Woodford, NSW

delicious. reserves the right to edit reader letters.

BRAVE NEW WORLD Inspired by your new seasonal feature, Hand Picked (Apr 14, p 26), I bit the bullet and got cooking. What a result! My family left no trace of Sydney chef Mark Jensen’s water spinach with wild mushrooms, and wok-tossed soy and sesame beef. I will no longer procrastinate when it comes to cooking from the magazine. Jemima Clarke, Marsﬁeld, NSW LEADING BY EXAMPLE My husband and I have made a conscious effort to eat less meat, for both ethical and health reasons. I was pleased to see some tasty vegetarian recipes in delicious., but you really surprised me with Matt Preston’s ‘5 reasons to go meat-free’ column (Apr 14, p 46) – if Matt can do it, then we all can. Louise van Camp, Petersham, NSW QUICK FIX One look at the salted chocolate and caramel tarts on the April cover (Apr 14, Wicked, p 71) and I drove straight to the shops after work, bought what I needed and got baking. Robyn Moroneyo, Illawong, NSW Follow us: facebook.com/ deliciousmagazine

@deliciousmagazine

@deliciousAU

Events • Photo galleries

with BakeClub in Rosebery, Sydney Our new feature, Cooking School, takes you inside some of the best classes. This month, not only are we featuring recipes from food writer Anneka Manning’s BakeClub (see p 68), but we’re offering you the chance to attend at two special classes in Sydney for delicious. readers. The theme of these three-hour classes will be ‘Bake to Entertain’, arming you with a collection of fail-safe recipes for your next gathering. Sip on De Bortoli Este sparkling wine as Anneka shares her expert tips and tricks, then walk away with a box of treats from the day, a copy of Anneka’s book, Bake, Eat, Love, and a bakeware gift from Wiltshire. Places are limited, don’t miss out.

Rosebery, NSW. Sunday, May 25, 1.30-4.30pm & Monday, May 26, 6-9pm. PRICE: $125 for a three-hour cooking class with De Bortoli Este sparkling wine on arrival, a copy of Bake, Eat, Love and a Wiltshire bakeware gift. BOOKINGS: Taken from 10am Wednesday, April 16, visit: bakeclub.com.au or tel: (02) 9399 7645. WHERE: WHEN:

Chicken, leek & thyme pies with simple ﬂaky pastry

* Caramelised onion & blue cheese ﬂatbread

* Parmesan & sesame biscuits

* Gluten-free mandarin, coconut & polenta cake with toffee mandarins

* Pear & rosemary tart

* Chocolate Marsala soufﬂe pudding

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RECIPES ALEX HERBERT PHOTOGRAPHY MARK ROPER STYLING BERNI SMITHIES

in season.

Sydney chef Alex Herbert of Bird Cow Fish fame, who can be found at her stall at Eveleigh Farmers’ Market on Saturday mornings, shares a taste of the seasonal produce in her basket this month, from sweet Jap pumpkin to lamb shoulder. delicious. 19

in season.

Roast pumpkin & herb salad. Opposite: braised lamb korma with potato and coriander.

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in season.

in season.

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in season.

Upside-down apple & almond cake with pistachios. Opposite: warm spiced rice salad with fried cauliﬂower and broccoli.

in season. roast pumpkin & herb salad Serves 6 1/3

cup (80ml) verjuice (unripe grape juice from gourmet food shops), warmed 3/4 cup (120g) raisins 900g small Jap (kent) pumpkin, peeled, cut into 3cm wedges 1 lemon, 1/2 thinly sliced, 1/2 juiced 1/4 cup (60ml) olive oil 2 tbs pepitas, toasted 1/2 bunch each, coriander, mint and ﬂat-leaf parsley, leaves picked Preheat oven to 200°C. Pour the verjuice over the raisins and set aside to cool. Arrange pumpkin and lemon slices on a baking paper-lined baking tray. Drizzle with oil, season, then roast for 35 minutes or until soft and caramelised. Set aside to cool. Reserve the oil from the baking tray. Strain verjuice, reserving raisins, and mix with lemon juice and reserved oil. Place, pumpkin, lemon, raisins, pepitas and herbs in a bowl and toss with dressing.

warm spiced rice salad with fried cauliﬂower and broccoli

braised lamb korma with potato and coriander

Serves 6

Serves 6

13/4 cups (350g) brown rice 1/2 head broccoli, cut into ﬂorets 1/2 head cauliﬂower, cut into ﬂorets 1/4 cup (60ml) olive oil, plus extra to drizzle 1 onion, ﬁnely chopped 1 garlic clove, ﬁnely chopped 1/2 tsp black mustard seeds 1/2 bunch each mint, coriander, ﬂat-leaf parsley, leaves picked 1/2 bunch spring onions, white and light green parts thinly sliced Juice of 1/2 lemon 100g thick Greek-style yoghurt 1 tbs harissa (from gourmet food shops)

1.5kg lamb shoulder (off the bone), fat trimmed, cut into 4cm pieces 2 tbs sunﬂower oil 2 onions, sliced 3 garlic cloves, chopped 5cm piece ginger, peeled, chopped 1 tsp ground cumin 1 tsp ground nutmeg 1 tsp ground cinnamon 1 tsp garam masala 1/2 tsp red chilli powder 3 bay leaves 2 dried small red chillies 1 cup (280g) thick Greek-style yoghurt 2 /3 cup (165ml) chicken stock 250g sour cream 500g (about 4) Dutch cream potatoes, peeled, cut into 3cm pieces Coriander and naan bread, to serve Preheat the oven to 160°C. Season the lamb with salt. Heat the oil in a ﬂameproof casserole over medium-high heat. Cook

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the lamb, in batches, turning, for 6 minutes or until browned all over, then remove from the pan. Reduce heat to medium, add the onion and cook, stirring, for 3-4 minutes until softened. Add the garlic and ginger, then cook, stirring, for a further 1 minute. Add spices, bay leaves and chillies, and cook for 30 seconds or until fragrant. Add the yoghurt, stock and sour cream, then stir to combine. Return the lamb to the casserole, season with pepper and bring to a simmer over medium heat. Cover surface with baking paper cut to ﬁt, then cover with a lid, and place in the oven for 2 hours or until the meat is tender. Meanwhile, place the potatoes in a saucepan of cold salted water. Bring to the boil over medium heat and simmer for 12-15 minutes until tender, then drain. Add the potatoes to the curry and stir to combine. Scatter with coriander and serve with naan.

Cook rice according to packet instructions or until tender. Bring a saucepan of salted water to the boil and blanch the broccoli and cauliﬂower for 2 minutes or until tender. Drain and set aside. Heat oil in a large frypan over medium heat. Cook the onion for 3-4 minutes until softened. Add the garlic and mustard seeds, and cook for a further 1-2 minutes

until fragrant. Add the cauliﬂower and broccoli, increase heat to medium-high and cook for 3-4 minutes until browned. Transfer broccoli and cauliﬂower mixture to a bowl with the rice, herbs and spring onion, then season and toss to combine. Squeeze over the lemon juice and drizzle over extra oil. Combine the yoghurt and harissa, then serve with the warm salad.

upside-down apple & almond cake with pistachios Serves 10-12 250g unsalted butter, softened 1 cup (220g) caster sugar 2 tbs brown sugar 6 eggs 1/2 cup (60g) almond meal 11/3 cups (200g) self-raising ﬂour 1 tsp vanilla extract Finely grated zest of 1 lemon 1/2 cup (160g) apricot jam, warmed 2 /3 cup (100g) slivered pistachios Caramelised apples 40g unsalted butter 5 Granny Smith apples, peeled, cut into thin wedges 1/4 cup (60g) brown sugar Preheat oven to 180°C. Line a 23cm springform cake pan with baking paper. For the apples, melt the butter in a frypan over medium-high heat. Add the apple and cook, turning, for 4 minutes or until golden and slightly softened. Add the brown sugar and cook for 2 minutes or until caramelised and a syrup forms. Arrange apple slices in a single layer over the base of the cake pan and set aside. Beat the butter, caster sugar and brown sugar using electric beaters for 4 minutes or until thick and pale. Beat in the eggs, 1 at a time, then fold in the almond meal, ﬂour, vanilla and lemon zest. Pour batter over apples and bake for 50-55 minutes until a skewer inserted into the centre comes out clean. Allow to cool then release pan and invert onto a plate. Brush warmed jam over cake and sprinkle over pistachios to serve. d.

Japanese, Jap or kent pumpkin is a sweet varietal with ribbed green skin. Look for heavy fruit with dry, hard skin and no bruises or soft spots. Roast kent pumpkins with their skin on for added crunch; sweet and slightly nutty butternut pumpkins are great pureed in soups; and you can make pumpkin scones with steamed Queensland blue. For a quick snack idea, make your own crispy pumpkin seeds by cleaning the seeds, then patting dry and tossing in 1 tbs each melted butter and oil. Season and bake for 30 minutes in a preheated 180°C oven.

Shoulder is a cut that’s perfect for the cooler weather, as it’s good for long, slow-cooking, roasting or braising. It’s an economical cut too. The ﬂesh should be a clear rosy colour (avoid lamb with a dark brown shade) and any fat should be creamy-white and feel ﬁrm.

Part of the brassica family, cauliﬂower is made up of a central head (curd) protected by wide leaves. Choose a ﬁrm, compact and creamy white head with green, crisp leaves. Avoid vegetables with a yellow tinge and unpleasant smell. Look out for the purple heirloom variety that is sweeter than common white. Cauliﬂower can be eaten raw – try it shaved in a salad with parmesan and a tangy dressing, ﬁnely chopped and used in place of rice or couscous, or bake a whole head (see Jamie Oliver’s recipe, p 103).

First discovered and cultivated as a variety by ‘Granny’ Maria Ann Smith in the Ryde district of NSW, these apples are known for their glossy green skin and crisp, white ﬂesh that is tart, but sweetens with maturity. Choose heavy fruit with smooth, clear skin and no soft or dark spots. Use them for baking as they hold their shape as they cook, or add to a winter slaw or cheeseboard as they are slower to brown than other varieties when cut.

What else to buy in May FRUIT • avocado (Sheppard and Hass; Bundaberg, Qld) • rhubarb (Tamborine, Qld, and Vic) • tamarillo • Australian kiwifruit (short season) • custard apple • quince

VEGETABLES • broccoli (Mornington Peninsula, Vic) • celery (Werribee and Clyde, Vic) • parsnip (Mornington Peninsula, Vic, and Gatton, SA) • kohlrabi • ginger (Buderim and Eumundi, Qld) • capsicum (Bundaberg, Qld) • leek (Robinvale, Werribee and Mornington Peninsula, Vic)

event.

showcase dinner at Rushcutters, Sydney

PHOTOGRAPHY ANDY LEWIS

We wrapped up our series of ABC delicious. Produce Awards showcase events around the country with dinner at Rushcutters in Sydney hosted by ABC 702 Sydney’s Simon Marnie (above left with delicious. editor Danielle Oppermann). NSW state judge Martin Boetz (top right with Produce Awards project manager Lucy Allon) prepared a four-course feast using some of the state’s best produce, including Tathra Oysters and Palmers Island Mulloway. Each course was matched with McWilliam’s Wines. For more photos, visit: deliciousmagazine.com.au.

In association with

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MAKE THE MOST OF THE MOMENT

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Come to a place where you can discover an abundance of locally caught, home-grown and organic produce. A place that caters for all tastes. From casual alfresco dining and first class restaurants to pubs and cafes, cooking schools, farmers markets and food festivals.

Discover the naturally refreshing flavour of the Sunshine Coast.

visitsunshinecoast.com.au

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Sydney’s new northside cafe, The Incinerator. Left: old-world elegance at new Melbourne absinthe and oyster bar Le Bon Ton.

WORDS HEIDI FINNANE, SHANNON HARLEY, HILARY MCNEVIN & LARA ZILIBOWITZ

TABLE TALK • The Walter Burley Griffin-designed Incinerator in Willoughby, Sydney, has been given new life with a hip cafe of the same name by owner Jonathan Slingo (ex-Merivale). Serving up fresh daytime dishes from the woodfired oven alongside The Grounds Roasters coffee as well as tipples after 10am if you prefer a glass of Champagne with your poached eggs and wood-smoked salmon. Visit: theincinerator.com.au. • Also on Sydney’s northside, Mercato e Cucina (meaning ‘market and kitchen’) is a sleek new Italian restaurant in Gladesville with a bakery, butcher, wine cellar, greengrocer and deli on the side, so you can pick up provisions after enjoying a plate of braised veal shoulder ravioli. Visit: mercatoecucina.com.au • Smoked meats and fish, oysters and absinthe, and all in a revamped pub – oui monsieur! Le Bon Ton, formerly The Glasshouse Hotel in Vic’s Collingwood, has been taken over by the Balleau brothers, who are also behind Chingon in Richmond. Visit: lebontonmelb.com. • Acclaimed chef Philippa Sibley and restaurateur Jason M Jones have opened Melbourne’s first ticketed restaurant, Prix Fixe, in the CBD. The monthly set menus are themed, from ‘A Midsummer Night’s Dream’ to ‘The Whole Hog’. Visit: prixfixe.com.au. • Passionate chef and ABC delicious. Produce Awards judge Mark McNamara (ex-Appellation), has opened a space for interactive cooking classes in SA’s Barossa Valley. Mark’s classes explore a range of cuisines and traditions. Visit: foodluddite.com.

Trends • News • Travel • Products • Books LOCO FOR COCO Not just for cooking, cold-pressed, organic virgin coconut oil is a great treatment for hair and skin. We’re loving the hair serum ($29.95/70ml) from Aussie-owned Coconut Revolution. Visit: coconutrevolution.com.au.

IN SEASON Wear your love of fresh vegetables on your sleeve with Gorman’s graphic Winter Harvest Dress. $269. Visit: gormanshop.com.au.

delicious. 29

insider.

THE PERFECT GIFT This month we bring you the ultimate foodie gift to treat Mum or yourself with our premium subscription package for only $120, including a year of delicious. and a deluxe pantry box including Atticus & Max Bloody Beetroot Relish, David Bitton BBQ Sauce, Sami’s Kitchen Zaatar, Stefano’s Lemon Curd, Bright Chocolate Ecuador Block and Thistle Be Good Moroccan Couscous. See p 48 for details.

INNER-CITY BUZZ Harvested from beehives in the heart of Sydney, Centennial Park Honey is 100 per cent raw with a unique ﬂoral ﬂavour. $13/300g. Visit: centennialparklands.com.au

RISE AND SHINE The versatile Cuisinart Griddler is a sandwich press and grill with removable wafﬂe plates, so you can prepare the ultimate Mother’s Day brunch with ease. $219; wafﬂe plates $49.95 extra (gift with purchase until May 31). Visit: cuisinart.com.au.

KITCHEN GARDEN

STACKING UP

As the weather cools, it’s time to sow a winter crop – think heirloom root veg such as beetroot, carrot and celeriac. The Little Veggie Patch Co Heirloom Seeds come in beautifully illustrated packs, from $2.25. Visit: littleveggiepatchco.com.au.

This set of nesting cake tins in the distinctive retro prints of Irish designer Orla Kiely is a great gift idea for the mum who bakes. $89.95. Visit: domayneonline.com.au.

30 delicious.

insider.

Daniel Wilson, chef and owner of Huxtable restaurant in Melbourne has come out with Huxtabook: Recipes from Sea, Land and Earth (Hardie Grant, $49.95), a mix of playful and elegant dishes from the restaurant and his travels. Easy to navigate, the book is divided into chapters reﬂecting the restaurant’s menu – Bites, Sea, Land, Earth and Sweets. Celebrating recipes handed down through the generations, Nonna to Nana: Stories of Food and Family ($59.95) documents the culinary traditions of 15 Australian grandmothers from diverse cultural backgrounds. Written and published by Melbourne sisters Jessie and Jacqueline DiBlasi, the book is inspired by recipes from their own Nonna Giovanna, who shares her recipes for beef ragu and fried sweet ricotta cakes. Tasty Express (Random House, $39.99) is packed with easy-to-make recipes with bold full-page photography from Sneh Roy of award-winning food blog Cook Republic. Sneh presents a delicious range of new recipes and a handful of her most popular creations, including sticky caramel chicken wings and gingerbread tiramisu. With recipes for every occasion, from brunch and picnics to afternoon tea and dinner parties, Three Sisters Bake (Hardie Grant, $39.95) by Scottish sisters Gillian, Nichola and Linsey Reith, is a pretty celebration of food for sharing with friends and family. Celebrity chef Pete Evans’ new book, Healthy Every Day (Pan Macmillan, $39.99), has plenty of inspiration for overhauling your weekly repertoire. Inspired by the paleo diet, Pete has made over classic recipes to make them lighter and healthier –think ﬁsh tagine with quinoa – also throwing in some sugar, gluten and dairy-free desserts.

DON’T MISS • On Thursday, May 8, Camp Quality Supper Club is hosting a nation-wide dinner party in 150 of Australia’s top restaurants to support children living with cancer. Some of the participating restaurants include Sydney’s Quay and Vue de Monde in Melbourne. Visit: supperclub2014.org.au to book a table. • Grab a picnic blanket and head to the Tasting Australia’s Producers’ Picnic on

Sunday, May 4 in Victoria Square, Adelaide. Browse the stalls, chat to the producers and fill your basket with some of the best produce the state has to offer. Visit: tastingaustralia.com.au. • Sample the best of Sydney’s markets with ‘Markets in May’, a month dedicated to the finest stall-holders. Stop by Martin Place at lunchtime on Thursday, May 1 for a free market display with producers offering samples of their goods.

TASTE TEST PARIS PASTRY CLUB Hardie Grant, $34.95 French-born pastry chef Fanny Zanotti, who currently works at London’s new Chiltern Firehouse, shares recipes from a life spent cooking in this nostalgic cookbook. She reminisces about fond memories from her family home – from her mother’s orange and yoghurt cake to her grandmother’s chewy nougat. Fanny also shares her own recipes from her years as a pastry chef in top restaurants, such as her deconstructed version of a pumpkin pie and a decadent triple-chocolate mousse cake. Her step-by-step instructions take the mystery out of puff pastry, but instead, I tried my hand at Fanny’s grandmother’s clafoutis. I took her lead and tweaked the recipe for the season, using apples instead of cherries. The result was simple and splendid, a cross between a fruit ﬂan and a baked custard. Lara Zilibowitz d.

Make your next BBQ memorable with our 100% Australian Gold Angus Beef Sausages, ﬂavoured with cracked pepper and Barossa Valley Shiraz wine.

insider.

Flour and Stone

WORDS LARA ZILIBOWITZ PHOTOGRAPHY NIGEL LOUGH

WHERE 53 Riley St, Woolloomooloo, NSW, (02) 8068 8818. WHO Celebrated pastry chef Nadine Ingram has opened up her own slice of bakery heaven after working at Le Gavroche and The Ivy in London, and Sydney’s Bourke Street Bakery. THE BUZZ This cosy inner-city cafe bursts with an abundance of daily baked goods and a constant ﬂow of people coming for breakfast, lunch and everything in between. THE MENU Breakfast staples include avocado on toast or boiled eggs with soldiers (the bread is from Brickﬁelds in Chippendale) and the rotating blackboard menu could include a Ferrero Rocher-like hazelnut torte, leek and gruyere tart or Nadine’s signature ‘joy of a lemon drizzle cake’. THE DRINKS Organic teas by Rabbit Hole and brews by Coffee Alchemy. MUST-EAT The lamington with sponge layers soaked in panna cotta and bound with berry compote.

Flour power Pastry chef Nadine Ingram has worked in some of the best-known restaurants and now offers daily baked goods at her Sydney cafe. choc-hazelnut torte Serves 8-10 12 /3 cups (250g) hazelnuts, roasted, skins removed, plus extra to serve 400g dark chocolate 250g softened unsalted butter 1 cup (220g) caster sugar 6 eggs, separated 3/4 cup (185ml) pure (thin) cream Preheat the oven to 150°C. Grease and line a 22cm springform pan. Place the hazelnuts in a food processor and whiz until ﬁnely ground. Set aside. Place 220g chocolate in a food processor and whiz until ﬁnely chopped. Set aside. Using electric beaters, beat the butter and 3/4 cup (165g) sugar until thick and

pale. Add yolks, 1 at a time, beating well after each addition, until combined. Gradually add chocolate and ground hazelnut, beating until combined. In a clean, dry bowl whisk eggwhites with remaining 1/4 cup (55g) sugar until stiff and glossy, then fold a little through the chocolate mixture to loosen. Fold in remaining eggwhite until just combined. Pour into the pan and bake for 1 hour 10 minutes or until the centre of the cake bounces back. Cool in pan for 10 minutes then remove from pan and transfer to a wire rack to cool completely. Place the cream and remaining 180g chocolate in a heatproof bowl set over a pan of simmering water, until melted. Cool, then spread ganache over the cake and top with extra roasted hazelnuts.

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insider.

Serves 4 13/4 cups (400g) farro* 1 rosemary sprig 1 small onion, cut into wedges 1 bunch broccolini, blanched, refreshed 1/2 bunch dill sprigs 1/2 bunch basil, leaves picked 1/3 cup (55g) blanched almonds, roasted, chopped 100g shanklish* or feta, chopped Basil pesto Bunch basil, leaves picked 2 tbs pine nuts 1/3 cup (25g) grated parmesan 1/3 cup (25g) grated pecorino 1/3 cup (80ml) extra virgin olive oil

34 delicious.

Rinse the farro well and drain. Place faro, rosemary and onion in a saucepan of cold salted water over medium heat. Bring to a simmer, then cook for 25-30 minutes until tender. Drain the farro, discarding the rosemary, season and set aside to cool. Meanwhile for the pesto, place all the ingredients in a small food processor and process until a smooth paste. Combine the farro with the broccolini, dill, basil, and 1/2 cup pesto. Top with almonds and shanklish, then serve.

* Farro (a grain from the same family as pearl barley with a chewier, nuttier texture) and shanklish (a Middle Eastern cheese made from cow or sheep milk that’s shaped into balls and covered in zaatar, thyme and pepper) are both available from delis and gourmet food shops.

THE BUZZ White tiled walls, high ceilings and a vast array of deli goods and take-home meals are feeding the inner-north – think wine, charcuterie and a wicked chocolate mousse. THE MENU Free-range chickens, suckling pig and roast beef twirl on the rotisserie, while seasonal salads may include roasted beetroot with feta, walnuts and dill, or shaved fennel with orange, chicory and currants. Plus meatballs, risotto and pasta to go. THE DRINKS There’s a smart wine list, good coffee and juices. MUST-EAT Roasted Bannockburn chicken ﬁlled with lemon, rosemary and parsley is a life-saver for the cook’s night-off. Salads too are a must.

STYLING BERNI SMITHIES

farro salad with shanklish

WHO Meaghan Gorski and Paul and Linda Jones who own all-day diner Gorski and Jones next door have created a food, wine and coffee hub.

FOOD PHOTOGRAPHY BRETT STEVENS

The team behind popular Brunswick Street Alimentari in Fitzroy have branched out into another of Melbourne’s hot eat streets.

WHERE 302 Smith St, Collingwood, Vic, (03) 9416 1666.

WORDS HILARY MCNEVIN

Street smart

Smith Street Alimentari

insider.

Upper crust Two Adelaide chefs have teamed up to open new bakery and cafe Butterﬁngers, where “handmade fun food” is the order of the day.

Cauliﬂower puree 600g cauliﬂower, chopped 600g desiree potatoes, peeled, chopped 1/3 cup (80ml) pure (thin) cream 75g unsalted butter Place the beef, wine, spices and 11/2 tbs salt in a non-reactive bowl. Cover and refrigerate for at least 6 hours or overnight. Drain the beef, reserving the wine and discarding spices, and pat dry. Dust in 2 tbs ﬂour, shaking off excess. Heat oil in a casserole over medium-high heat and

36 delicious.

Butterﬁngers WHERE 168 Melbourne St, North Adelaide, SA, (08) 7225 8855. WHO Bakers Domenic Tiani and Nicole Abbasi have made their dough in Adelaide institutions including Mulots Patisserie, Nano, ETC and Martini Restaurante, where they met. THE BUZZ Butterﬁngers has only been open a few months in well-heeled North Adelaide, but its recycled timber and metal are much older, coming from a pavilion at the Wayville Showground. Try for a seat at the communal table outside if it’s warm. THE MENU Domenic has a passion for pies that are made with top-quality ingredients in unique combinations. “Butter sticks” are crunchy lengths of house-made focaccia with different ﬁllings, while the apple and lemon tarts are hard to pass up. MUST EAT The pies. Try the braised beef cheek with Pedro Ximenez and cauliﬂower puree if it’s on. d.

STYLING BERNI SMITHIES

1kg beef cheeks, trimmed 2 cups (500ml) red wine 11/2 tsp fennel seeds, ground 1 tsp whole black peppercorns 1 each cinnamon quill, bay leaf, star anise 1/3 cup (50g) plain ﬂour 1/4 cup (60ml) olive oil 1 each onion and celery stalk, chopped 2 carrots, chopped 100ml Pedro Ximenez or sweet sherry 3 sheets frozen shortcrust pastry, thawed Chopped ﬂat-leaf parsley, to serve

cook beef, turning, for 7-8 minutes until browned, then remove from casserole. Reduce heat to medium, add onion, celery and carrot, and cook for 3-4 minutes until softened. Return beef to pan with the reserved wine and 1 cup (250ml) water. Cover surface with a piece of baking paper and bring to a simmer. Cover with lid and reduce heat to low. Cook, occasionally turning beef, for 21/2 hours. Add the Pedro Ximenez and cook for a further 30 minutes. Combine remaining 2 tbs ﬂour with 1/3 cup (80ml) water, then stir into the casserole until smooth. Cook for a further 5 minutes or until thickened. Cool slightly, then chill to cool completely. Remove beef and shred, then combine with 11/2 cups thickened sauce and vegetables. Meanwhile for puree, place cauliﬂower and potato in a saucepan of cold salted water. Bring to the boil and cook for 10-15 minutes until tender. Drain, mash and beat in the cream and butter while still warm. Season and set aside to cool. Preheat oven to 210°C. Grease a deep 26cm pie dish and line with pastry, patching sheets. Add beef, then top with cauliﬂower puree. Bake for 35 minutes or until pastry is golden. Serve with parsley.

FOOD PHOTOGRAPHY BRETT STEVENS

Serves 8

WORDS SIMON WILKINSON

braised beef & cauliﬂower pie

delicious.

CAMPBELL’S ADVERTISING FEATURE

2 tbs tomato paste 1L (4 cups) Campbell’s Real Stock: Chicken Finely grated parmesan (optional), to serve

Take stock

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Boost the ﬂavour of these hearty family favourites with the all-natural range of Campbell’s Real Stock. REAL BEEF BURRITOS 1/4 cup (60ml) olive oil 750g chuck steak or gravy beef, thinly sliced 1 large onion, ﬁnely chopped 2 garlic cloves, crushed 1 tsp Mexican chilli powder 1 tsp ground cumin 2 tbs tomato paste 2 cups (500ml) Campbell’s Real Stock: Beef 400g can corn kernels, rinsed, drained 2 tomatoes, quartered, seeds removed, thinly sliced into strips 1/2 bunch coriander, leaves chopped 6 tortillas, heated or chargrilled Heat a non-stick frypan over medium heat. Add 1 tbs oil and cook the beef, in batches, stirring, until browned. Transfer beef to a plate and set aside. Add onion, garlic, Mexican chilli powder and cumin to pan and cook, stirring, for 2 minutes. Return beef to pan with tomato paste and cook, stirring, for 2 minutes.

Pour in Campbell’s Real Stock and bring to boil. Reduce heat to low and simmer for 30 minutes or until the liquid has almost evaporated. Season to taste. Meanwhile, combine the corn, tomato, coriander and remaining 2 tbs oil in a bowl. Season to taste. To assemble, place a tortilla on a ﬂat surface. Place a little beef just left of centre. Top with corn salsa and roll into a burrito. Repeat with remaining tortillas and serve immediately. Makes 6 OVEN-BAKED TOMATO & CHICKEN RISOTTO 1 tbs olive oil 1 onion, ﬁnely chopped 100g bacon rashers, thinly sliced 500g chicken thigh ﬁllets, thinly sliced 2 garlic cloves, crushed 1 tsp ﬁnely grated lemon zest 1 tbs ﬁnely chopped fresh rosemary 1/2 tsp dried chilli ﬂakes (optional) 2 cups (440g) arborio rice

Preheat the oven to 180°C. Heat the oil in a large ﬂameproof, ovenproof dish over medium heat. Cook the onion and bacon, stirring, for 2 minutes or until golden. Add the chicken and cook, stirring, for 3-4 minutes until golden. Add garlic, lemon zest, rosemary and chilli, if using, and cook for a further 2 minutes. Add the rice and cook, stirring, for 1 minute to coat the grains. Mix the tomato paste and Campbell’s Real Stock in a jug and Pour over rice. Bake, covered, for 35 minutes or until rice is just tender and the liquid has almost been absorbed. Stir through the parmesan, if using, and serve. Serves 6

The real deal One hundred per cent all-natural beef or chicken bones, vegetables and spices, and four hours of gentle simmering go in to each carton of Campbell’s Real Stock. The result is a clear stock that adds a deeper, richer ﬂavour to your favourite meals in minutes. Perfect in risottos, soups, casseroles and braises.

what to drink when. by andrea frost

$

De Bortoli Noble One 2010, $33

GIVEN HOW LITTLE sweet wine we drink on a regular basis, you might well be surprised how many styles there are in the world. Dessert wines make up some of the world’s most lauded, famous, expensive and delicious wines. In Australia, dessert or ‘sticky’ wines fall broadly into two camps: wines that are made from grapes that have sweetened on the vine, and those that have been made from wine that has been fortiﬁed during winemaking. The ﬁrst style, often made from semillon or riesling, produces wines that are light golden in colour and super sweet. These grapes may have been left to ripen longer or affected by a naturally occurring fungus, called botrytis cinerea, which transforms the grapes into intense, sweet and unattractive looking bunches called ‘Noble Rot’. Look for sweet or botriysed wines from warmer regions such as the Hunter Valley, Riverina and North East Victoria. Flavours can include honey, apricots, marmalade, mandarins and blossom. Pair such wines with fresh fruit, a lemon cheesecake or creme caramel. The second style, the fortiﬁed wines, are those where fermentation has been stopped early, some fortifying agent such as grape spirit added so that the wines are higher in alcohol and hedonism. Such wines include sherry, liqueur muscat and port. In Australia, you can’t go past Rutherglen in North East Victoria for some of the worlds best fortiﬁed wines. Styles range from sweet, amber and luscious to dark, rich and viscous. Pair with strong blue cheeses to rich chocolate desserts or, as blasphemous as it is, pour over ice cream and top with shavings of chocolate. d. Follow Andrea at newrubypress.com; and send your wine questions for Andrea to: [email protected].

$$

From the famous Milawa vineyard this wine has a golden colour with complex aromas of warm honey and marmalade. The palate is rich with luscious sweetness and wonderful length.

$$$

Campbells Isabella Rare Rutherglen Topaque, $120 Like dark toffee, this wine offers heady aromas of treacle and mocha, while the palate is intense, rich, sweet and opulent. A rich and complex wine to be paired with the most hedonistic offerings.

“Does it matter which wine I use for cooking?” Yes, but it doesn’t have to be too special as it’s mostly used to boost ﬂavours in the dish. The idea is that wine changes as it is heated – use a medium-bodied dry wine, so as not to overpower with tannins, and avoid wines that are highly acidic, as this is only ampliﬁed by cooking. 38 delicious.

ILLUSTRATIONS STEPHANIE WESTCOTT

From light and ﬂoral to dark and rich, Andrea explains the spectrum of dessert wines.

Brown Brothers Patricia Late Harvest Noble Riesling 2008, $35

WORDS ANDREA FROST

Sweet talk

An Australian wine icon. Made from botrysied semillon, it’s golden in colour and offers a rich bouquet and ﬁnely balanced palate. Flavours of honey, mandarin and a hint of vanilla are lifted with a little acidity.

matt preston.

to love Indian food This month, Matt shares his love of Indian cuisine in all its diversity, from golden fried street food to creamy curries redolent of the glory days of the Raj.

1

India is a jolly big place The sheer size of India means a wealth of different climates and environments, which means not just 19 or so different regional cuisines but also the fact that everything from coconuts to peppercorns varies in ﬂavour from coast to coast. It’s the same in cities like Mumbai where you’ll ﬁnd the local Marathi cuisine living beside onion-free Gujarati food from the north and Mangalorean cuisine from the south. So basically calling something ‘Indian’ is about as speciﬁc as calling a cow a ‘mammal’.

2

a teaspoon of curry powder just won’t cut it. It can be as simple as poaching apricots with green cardamom pods or making a tandoori marinade for chicken thighs out of lemon, yoghurt and garlic with turmeric, cumin, coriander, cloves and cardamom.

3

Indians are sweet on sour Much is always made about the spice and heat of Indian food but it’s the clever use of sourness that impresses me most. Yoghurt or curd is a staple on many tables. While on the Mangalore or Konkan coasts in the west not only do they use yoghurt, lemon juice and vinegar, but also tamarind, mango and sourness from two fruit trees related to the mangosteen. From one comes powdered kokum (made from the dried skins of the fruit), and from the fruit of the other, a sticky, dark and smoky kachampuli or Coorg vinegar. Few things are better than fried chicken tossed in this tangy local vinegar or, continuing the theme, the sourness of a properly fermented lentil batter that adds tang to those crispy pancakes called dosa.

“It’s the combination of spices that makes Indian cuisine special rather than just the heat of dried chilli.”

Spice not spicy Once Indian food was prized in the West for its heat alone but in the last decade we’ve started to understand it’s the combination of spices that makes Indian cuisine special rather than just the heat of dried red chilli. Oh, and that

4

Street food While rich dishes such as chicken korma, creamy with pounded ingredients including cashew, come from the royal courts, some of India’s best dishes come from far humbler places. Every city in India has its favourite street food, whether it’s the crisp, puffed cups of semolina ﬁlled with potato, chickpeas and tamarind called panipuri or lacy orange sweet fried jalebi, the burrito-like kati rolls of Kolkata, or the stuffed ﬂatbreads called parathas in Old Delhi.

5

Naan Indians love their bread – unleavened chapati, ﬂaky paratha – but foremost amongst these are those puffy tandoori-cooked naan whether brushed with ghee or stuffed with dried fruit and nuts in the Kashmiri style. All I really need to be happy is a good rogan josh and basket of garlic naan. d. Matt Preston's latest cookbook, Fast, Fresh and Unbelievably Delicious (Plum/ Pan Macmillan; $39.99) is on sale now.

40 delicious.

ILLUSTRATION STEPHANIE WESTCOTT

THE VIBRANT COLOURS, rich aromas and complex ﬂavours of Indian food mean there are many reasons to love this spice-laced cuisine. However, if I had to choose only ﬁve, which I must for this column, the reasons below draw me back to the subcontinent literally and in the kitchen.

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meet the expert baristas at ® harvey norman

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1. Jura ‘Impressa J9.3’ One-Touch TFT Automatic Coffee Machine (J93), $2,950 Stylish and simple to use, the ‘J9.3’ features a large colour screen and scroll wheel, offering a generous coffee menu with programmable functions. The machine makes silky-smooth froth for cappuccinos, and comes with a stainless-steel milk container. Also pictured are the Luigi Bormioli Thermic Dual Wall Glasses: 85ml (6510352), $19.95; 270ml (6510354), $34.95; and 105ml (6510353), $24.95 (all sets of two). To find the complete recipe for this delicious espresso glaze cake, visit HN.COM.AU/ESPRESSOYOURSELF

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Molten mocha puddings

When espresso coffee is a constant in your household An automatic machine is ideal for anyone who craves convenience in the kitchen and wants to entertain with ease. •

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IMPRESS YOUR GUESTS WITH THIS MOLTEN MOCHA PUDDING For the complete recipe, visit HN.COM.AU/ESPRESSOYOURSELF

STAND & DELIVER 3 A

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2. Saeco ‘Minuto’ Automatic Coffee Machine (HD876203), $799 Sleek and ultra-compact, the ‘Minuto’ offers an integrated milk frother and ceramic grinders, plus programmable preference settings to ensure your coffee is just the way you like it, every time. 3. Délonghi ‘Magnifica S’ Fully Automatic Coffee Machine (ECAM22110SB), $899 With its one-touch operation system, integrated bean grinder and ability to prepare two cups of coffee with a single brewing, the ‘Magnifica S’ is sleek, user-friendly and super-efficient.

cafe-style accessories DUAL WALL GLASSES TRAP THE HEAT

Luigi Bormioli Thermic Dual Wall Glasses (all sets of two). A. Great for lattes, 270ml (6510354), $34.95. B. Perfect for hot chocolates, 340ml (6510355), $39.95. C. Ideal for espresso, 105ml (6510353), $24.95.

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4. DéLonghi ‘PrimaDonna Exclusive’ Fully Automatic Coffee/Chocolate Machine (ESAM6900), $3,499 The only coffee machine that will make you a hot chocolate, the ‘PrimaDonna Exclusive’ features an intuitive colour screen with six standard coffees to choose from plus multi-user functionality that allows you the freedom to program your own. (Price includes the milk jug and the separate hot chocolate carafe pictured). Also pictured is the Luigi Bormioli Thermic Dual Wall Glass, 270ml (6510354), $34.95 (set of two).

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5. Breville ‘The Oracle’ Manual Automatic Coffee Machine (BES980), $2,499 Combining automatic grinding, dosing and tamping features with manual options that allow users to extract espresso shots to within +/- 1°C of their ideal temperature, ‘The Oracle’ brings true café style to your home. Also pictured are the Luigi Bormioli Thermic Dual Wall Glasses, 85ml (6510352), $19.95 (set of two).

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Espresso caramel tart

PERFECT FOR THOSE WHO LOVE being in full control A manual machine offers complete creative control for aficionados who enjoy the process of crafting the ultimate coffee. •

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TEST YOUR CULINARY SKILLS WITH THIS ESPRESSO CARAMEL TART 6. Sunbeam ‘Cafe Series’ Espresso Coffee Machine (EM7000R), $949 The ‘Cafe Series’ machine is made from high-quality materials and features pressure indicators to help you brew the perfect espresso time and time again. 7. Breville ‘The Barista Express™’ Espresso Machine (BES870), $799 Offering 18 grind settings and full control over the extraction and dose functions, this powerful machine with integrated grinder and milk frother will have you making café-quality coffee in the comfort of your own home.

AD-ON FOR THE ARTISAN FRESH BEANS MAKE GREAT COFFEE

D. Délonghi Coffee Storage Vacuum Canister (DECC500), $69.95 The airtight vacuum seal on this canister will keep coffee beans fresh for longer.

For the complete recipe, visit HN.COM.AU/ESPRESSOYOURSELF

FULL OF BEANS 7 D

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Coffee bean biscotti

for homes that need coffee to be convenient Capsule machines are a perfect fit for busy contemporary lifestyles that demand quality coffee at the push of a button. •

Enjoy quality coffee on the go and pre-prepare sweet treats for a fuss-free ﬁx

THIS COFFEE BEAN BISCOTTI CAN BE STORED FOR A QUICK AND EASY TREAT For the complete recipe, visit HN.COM.AU/ESPRESSOYOURSELF

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8. Nespresso ‘Lattissima Pro’ Coffee Machine (EN750MB), $899 This sleek and sophisticated Nespresso machine boasts a patented automatic cappuccino system designed to deliver light and perfectly textured milk. 9. Lavazza ‘A Modo Mio’ Capsule Coffee Machine (ELM5400S), $299.95 Featuring a programmable long and short espresso button plus an integrated milk jug, this machine comes with a capsule starter pack and offers authentic coffee at the push of a button. Also pictured is the Luigi Bormioli Thermic Dual Wall Glass, 105ml (6510353), $24.95 (set of two).

extra organised KEEP YOUR PODS CLOSE AT HAND

E. For creative convenience, Dimora Universal Capsule Holder (DCUPH), $39.95. F. Show your true colours and store in style, Dimora Caffé Entry Capsule Holder (DCENES), $24.95.

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10. Nespresso ‘Inissia’ Capsule Coffee Machine (EN80BAE), $249 Combining striking European design with clever energy-saving features, Nespresso ‘Inissia’ is the stylish way to achieve quality coffee in an instant. Available in black and red. Also pictured is the Luigi Bormioli Thermic Dual Wall Glass (below left), 85ml (6510352), $19.95 (set of two).

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espresso your personal style Harvey Norman has everything you need to create a café at home. Head in-store or online to view the full range G. A must for texturing milk, Dimora Caffé Milk Jug, 200ml (DCMJ6), $16.95. H–K. A glass for every coffee, Luigi Bormioli Thermic Dual Wall Glasses (all sets of two): H. 270ml, $34.95; I. 85ml, $19.95; J. 340ml, $39.95 and K. 105ml, $24.95. L. A light dusting for a sweet finish, Dimora Caffé Chocolate Shaker (DCCS), $12.95.

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Visit any Harvey Norman store to meet the expert baristas and view the range. For more information, call 1300 464 278 or visit harveynorman.com.au Not available at all stores. To find out what’s happening at your local Harvey Norman®, contact your store directly. Harvey Norman® stores are operated by independent franchisees.

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• Curtis Stone’s new LA restaurant • Baking basics • The best of Jewish comfort food

delicious. 51

ADVERTISING FEATURE

RECIPES VALLI LITTLE PHOTOGRAPHY JEREMY SIMONS

STYLING BERNI SMITHIES & DAVID MORGAN

valli’s kitchen diary.

Entertaining tonight, but stuck for inspiration? Valli saves the day with three of her all-time favourite dinner party menus – take your pick from stress-free French, Italian or Thai.

delicious. 53

valli’s kitchen diary.

onion & goat’s cheese tarts Makes 4 375g block frozen puff pastry, thawed 1 egg, lightly beaten 1/2 cup (170g) onion jam 200g log ﬁrm goat’s cheese, sliced into 4 rounds 1 tbs thyme leaves Olive oil, to drizzle 2 tbs honey (optional) Watercress sprigs, to serve Preheat the oven to 200°C. Line a baking tray with baking paper. Place the pastry on a lightly ﬂoured surface and roll out to

5mm thick. Use a 7.5cm pastry cutter to cut out 8 rounds. Lay 4 rounds on the prepared baking tray and brush with egg. Using a 5cm cutter, cut a hole in the centre of the remaining 4 rounds, discarding the small circles, and sit the rings on top of the bases, pressing gently to seal. Bake the tart shells for 5 minutes or until lightly puffed. Gently press down the centre of the pastry and ﬁll the cavity with onion jam. Sit a round of goat cheese on top and scatter with thyme leaves. Drizzle with oil and bake for a further 8-10 minutes until the pastry is puffed and crisp and the cheese is starting to melt. Drizzle tarts with honey, if using, and serve with watercress on the side.

roast duck breast with orange, cranberry & walnut salad Serves 4 1/4 cup (60g) brown sugar Finely grated zest and juice of 2 oranges Finely grated zest and juice of 1 lemon 1 tbs soy sauce 1/2 cup (125ml) chicken stock 1/3 cup (110g) orange marmalade 4 duck breast ﬁllets Orange, cranberry & walnut salad (recipe follows), to serve

Place sugar and 1/2 cup (125ml) water in a saucepan over low heat and simmer until sugar dissolves. Add citrus zest and juice, soy, stock and 2 tbs marmalade. Return to the boil, reduce heat to low and simmer for 2-3 minutes until syrupy, then set aside. Score the duck skin, season well and place, skin-side down, in a cold frypan. Place the pan over medium-low heat, then cook for 5-6 minutes until the fat has rendered and the skin is golden. Place, skin-side up, on a baking tray and brush with remaining 2 tbs marmalade. Bake for 5 minutes for medium-rare or until cooked to your liking, then rest for 3 minutes. Add the resting juices from the duck to the sauce and gently reheat. Slice the duck and serve with the salad and sauce.

orange, cranberry & walnut salad Serves 4 2 tbs red wine vinegar 1/4 cup (60ml) olive oil 3 oranges 2 wiltof, leaves separated, torn if large 1/4 cup chopped dill 1/4 cup chopped chives 1/4 cup mint leaves, roughly chopped 1/4 cup ﬂat-leaf parsley, roughly chopped 1 celery heart, leaves torn 1/4 cup (40g) dried cranberries, soaked in boiling water for 10 minutes, drained 1/2 cup (50g) walnuts, toasted, chopped Whisk together the vinegar, oil and ﬁnely grated zest and juice of 1 orange. Season. Peel and segment remaining 2 oranges and combine with the remaining salad ingredients. Toss with dressing and serve.

make-ahead berry souffles Serves 4 Melted butter, to grease 1 cup (220g) caster sugar, plus extra

3 cups (450g) frozen berries, thawed 1 tsp vanilla extract 1 tsp lemon juice 1 tbs cornﬂour 3 eggwhites Icing sugar and vanilla ice cream, to serve Preheat oven to 200ºC. Grease four 1-cup (250ml) capacity ramekins. Dust with extra caster sugar, shaking out any excess. Combine the berries, vanilla, lemon juice and 1/2 cup (110g) caster sugar with 1/4 cup (60ml) water in a saucepan over medium heat. Combine cornﬂour with 1 tbs water, add to the berries and cook for 2-3 minutes until fruit has broken down. (The mixture can be chilled for 3-4 hours at this stage.) Whisk eggwhites and remaining 1/2 cup (110g) caster sugar in a bowl until thick and glossy. Fold three-quarters of the cooled berry sauce into the eggwhite. Divide the remaining sauce among the ramekins and top with eggwhite mixture. Bake for 10-12 minutes until risen. Dust with icing sugar and serve with ice cream.

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conﬁt tomato & ricotta crostini

Chargrill the sourdough, then spread with ricotta, top with conﬁt tomatoes and drizzle with pan juices. Season and serve immediately with basil leaves.

Serves 4 1/4 cup

(60ml) olive oil 2 garlic cloves, ﬁnely chopped 1 tbs fennel seeds, crushed 1 tsp white sugar 2 x 250g punnets cherry tomatoes, halved 8 slices sourdough bread 250g ricotta Basil leaves, to serve Preheat the oven to 150°C. Combine oil, garlic, fennel seeds, sugar and tomato in a bowl. Season and toss gently to combine. Transfer to a baking paper-lined baking tray and bake for 30 minutes or until soft and caramelised.

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pesto-crusted lamb racks with golden parmesan potatoes Serves 4 3 x 5-cutlet French-trimmed lamb racks 100ml olive oil 4 potatoes, cut into 2cm-thick slices 120g jar good-quality basil pesto 2 cups (140g) fresh breadcrumbs 2 tbs Dijon mustard 2 tbs grated parmesan Steamed green and yellow beans, to serve Preheat the oven to 180°C. Line 2 baking trays with baking paper.

Season the lamb racks. Heat 1 tbs oil in a frypan over medium-high heat. Cook lamb, in batches, turning, for 3-4 minutes until browned. Set aside to cool. Place potato in a saucepan ﬁlled with cold salted water over high heat. Bring to the boil and cook for 3-4 minutes until parboiled, drain and pat dry. Arrange slices in a single layer on one of the baking trays, drizzle with 2 tbs oil and season. Combine the pesto, breadcrumbs and remaining 2 tbs oil in a bowl, then season. Spread the mustard over the skin side of the lamb racks, then cover with the pesto mixture, patting down well to form a crust. Transfer the lamb to the other baking tray and place in the oven, on the top shelf, with the potato underneath, then bake for 25 minutes or until the crust is golden and lamb is medium-rare or until cooked to your liking. Remove the lamb and set aside to rest, loosely covered with foil, for 10 minutes. Sprinkle the parmesan over the potato and return them to the top shelf of the oven for a further 10 minutes or until the potato is cooked, crisp and golden. Slice the lamb into cutlets and serve with the potato and beans.

valli’s kitchen diary.

aperol spritz jellies Serves 4 Aperol is a classic Italian aperitivo, but here I’m using it to end the meal. 6 titanium-strength gelatine leaves* (see Shopping list, p 57) 150g caster sugar 750ml bottle prosecco 100ml fresh orange juice 1/2 cup (125ml) Aperol or Campari Whipped cream, fresh orange segments and blanched ﬁnely pared orange zest, to serve Soak the gelatine in a bowl of cold water for 5 minutes to soften. Place the sugar, prosecco and orange juice in a saucepan over medium heat. Warm gently, stirring, until sugar dissolves. Squeeze excess water from the gelatine and add to the orange juice mixture, stirring until dissolved. Set aside for 10 minutes to cool. Strain mixture through a sieve into a clean bowl and add the Aperol. Pour into 4 serving glasses and place in the fridge for 4 hours or until set. Serve with whipped cream, orange segments and orange zest.

thai ﬁsh pie Serves 4-6 400ml can coconut milk 1 lemongrass stalk (inner core only), 2 garlic cloves, ﬁnely chopped 2cm piece ginger, grated 2 tsp grated palm sugar 1 long red chilli, seeds removed, chopped 2 tsp ﬁsh sauce Juice of 1/2 lime 4 kafﬁr lime leaves, 2 shredded 2 tbs green curry paste 1.2kg pontiac potatoes, roughly chopped 80g unsalted butter, plus extra to dot 1/4 cup (60ml) milk 250g skinless ling ﬁllets, chopped 250g skinless salmon ﬁllets, chopped 16 green prawns, peeled, deveined 1 cup (120g) frozen peas, thawed 2 tbs ﬁnely chopped coriander leaves Preheat the oven to 180°C. Combine coconut milk, lemongrass, garlic, ginger, sugar, chilli, ﬁsh sauce, lime juice, kafﬁr lime leaves and curry paste in a saucepan over medium heat. Bring to a simmer, stirring, then set aside for 10 minutes to infuse. Meanwhile, place potato in a saucepan of cold salted water over high heat. Bring to the boil, then simmer for 12 minutes or until tender. Drain, then mash, add the butter and milk, season and beat with a wooden spoon until smooth and creamy. Place the ﬁsh, prawns and peas in a 1.2L baking dish. Remove lemongrass and whole lime leaves from the sauce and discard. Add the coriander, then pour over the seafood. Top with the mashed potato, raking the surface with a fork, and dot with extra butter. Bake for 25-30 minutes until the top is golden and seafood is cooked, then serve.

valli’s kitchen diary.

thai chicken cakes Makes 24 These can be made ahead and reheated in a 180°C oven for 20 minutes. 500g chicken mince 1 egg, beaten 1/2 cup (35g) fresh breadcrumbs 1 tbs ﬁsh sauce 1 tbs red curry paste 2 tbs ﬁnely chopped coriander root 1 small red chilli, seeds removed, ﬁnely chopped 4 spring onions, ﬁnely chopped 1/4 cup (60ml) sunﬂower oil Iceberg lettuce, lime wedges and sweet chilli sauce, to serve Place the mince, egg, breadcrumbs, ﬁsh sauce, curry paste, coriander root, chilli and spring onion in a bowl and use your hands to combine. Using tablespoonfuls of mixture, shape into 24 small patties, pressing to ﬂatten slightly. Transfer to a large baking tray and chill for 15 minutes. Heat oil in a frypan over medium-high heat. Cook the patties for 2 minutes each side or until cooked through. Serve cakes with the lettuce leaves, lime wedges and sweet chilli sauce.

ginger creams with poached plums Makes 6 3 titanium-strength gelatine leaves 11/2 cups (375ml) pure (thin) cream 1/3 cup (75g) caster sugar 1 cup (250ml) ginger beer 2 tsp grated ginger 1/2 tsp ground ginger Sunﬂower oil, to shallow-fry 8 wontons wrappers, halved diagonally Icing sugar, to dust Poached plums 4 blood plums, halved 2 strips ﬁnely pared orange zest 1/2 cup (110g) caster sugar Soak the gelatine in a bowl of cold water for 5 minutes to soften. Meanwhile, combine the cream, sugar, ginger beer and fresh and ground ginger

in a saucepan, and bring to a simmer over medium heat. Squeeze excess water from gelatine and add to cream mixture. Strain mixture through a sieve into a bowl then chill for 1 hour or until starting to thicken. Remove from fridge, lightly whisk and pour into six 200ml capacity ramekins. Return to fridge for 4 hours or until set. For the poached plums, combine the plum, orange zest, sugar and 1 cup (250ml) water in a saucepan over medium heat. Bring to a simmer, then reduce heat to low and simmer for 5 minutes or until plums are just tender and syrup thickens slightly. Remove from the heat and transfer to a heatproof bowl to cool, then place in the fridge to chill. Heat 1cm oil in a small saucepan over medium-high heat. Fry wonton wrappers, in batches, turning, for 30 seconds or until crisp and golden. Remove and drain on paper towel. Dust with icing sugar. Serve creams garnished with wonton crisps and poached plums. d.

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FAMILY LA-based Aussie chef Curtis Stone’s ﬁrst restaurant, Maude, dishes up a unique produce-driven concept. This month he shares punchy citrus recipes from his debut menu.

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curtis stone.

Opposite: lemon curd on brioche. This page (clockwise from top left): the pared-back interior at Maude; Curtis Stone; quaint touches in the dining room; Curtis plating up fettuccine with prawns, ﬁnger lime and grapefruit beurre blanc.

MICHELIN STAR-TRAINED CHEF, internationally recognised television personality, best-selling author and entrepreneur with famous good looks, Melbourne-born Curtis Stone seems to have it all. Well, he does now, after the celebrated opening of his ﬁrst restaurant in LA, Maude, which is named after the 38-year-old’s grandmother; who ﬁrst taught him to make fudge when he was ﬁve. The intimate 25-seat diner opened in February in Beverly Hills, where Curtis lives with his wife, Lindsay, and two-year old son, Hudson. “I literally bounce out of bed every day to get into the kitchen. There’s a tremendous amount of creativity and excitement involved in owning your own restaurant – for example I can’t wait to see how the terrine turned out from the night before,” he tells us. Before he gained international recognition hosting TV programs such as Surﬁng the Menu, Take Home Chef and US reality show Top Chef Masters, Curtis trained classically under three-Michelin-star maestro Marco Pierre White in London at The Cafe Royal and Mirabelle, before going on to become head chef at Marco’s Quo Vadis. “It’s been too long since I was doing the day in, day out in a restaurant kitchen. I’ve really cut back on travel so that I can be here, on the line, every night that I possibly can. It’s my second baby after Hudson.” The concept is unique – each month Curtis sets himself the task to come up with a new degustation menu centred around a single seasonal ingredient. “For our opening month the theme was citrus, next artichokes, then peas and so on. Sometimes the hero ingredient is at the centre of the plate, and other times it’s a little addition to set the meal off. The changing menu is a challenge to test our creativity in the kitchen: how far can you go with citrus?” Curtis’ aim was to create something sophisticated yet casual, in the vein of a hosted dinner party with friends. This is reﬂected in the eclectic mix of vintage crockery and photo of grandma Maude on the mantelpiece. Curtis’ wife even has a favourite table with her name etched beneath. “I guess it’s a bit of a family affair and an intimate, special space to be in everyday,” he says. Visit: mauderestaurant.com.

WORDS LARA ZILIBOWITZ RECIPES CURTIS STONE FOOD PHOTOGRAPHY MARK ROPER FOOD STYLING BERNI SMITHIES LOCATION & PORTRAIT PHOTOGRAPHY RAY KACHATORIAN

“There’s a tremendous amount of creativity and excitement involved in owning your own restaurant.”

curtis stone.

Orange mostarda with semolina crackers

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orange mostarda Makes 11/3 cups (400g) 11/2

tbs caster sugar 1/3 cup (80ml) champagne vinegar 1 tbs yellow mustard seeds 8 oranges 2 tsp sunﬂower oil 2 eschalots, ﬁnely chopped 1/2 cup (180g) honey 1 rosemary sprig 1 thyme sprig 1 tbs Dijon mustard 2 tbs mustard powder Semolina crackers (recipe follows), to serve To pickle the mustard seeds, place the sugar, 1/4 cup (60ml) vinegar and 1/3 cup (80ml) water in a small saucepan over medium-high heat. Bring to the boil, add the mustard seeds and cook for 8-10 minutes until a thick syrup. Cool. Meanwhile, use a vegetable peeler to peel the oranges in long strips – do not remove the white pith. Finely dice the peel until you have 1 cup (170g) peel. Juice one orange (you’ll need 1 tbs juice). Bring a saucepan ﬁlled with water to the boil over high heat. Add the diced orange peel and cook for 5 minutes. Drain. Repeat this process twice so the citrus is tender and no longer bitter, then refresh in iced water. Heat a small saucepan over medium-low heat. Add the oil, eschalot and a pinch of salt, then cook, stirring, for 3 minutes or until tender. Add the honey and 2 tbs water, and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Add the rosemary and thyme. Simmer for 5 minutes for the ﬂavours to infuse, then remove the rosemary and thyme and discard. Whisk in the mustard, mustard powder and remaining 1 tbs vinegar. Simmer, whisking constantly, for 5 minutes or until the liquid is reduced by one-third.

Reduce heat to low, add the blanched peel and cook for 5 minutes or until peel is translucent. Remove from the heat and stir in the pickled mustard seeds with reserved 1 tbs orange juice. Season and chill until ready to serve with semolina crackers.

semolina crackers Makes 36 crackers You will need a pasta machine. 3/4

cup (110g) plain ﬂour cup (110g) semolina ﬂour 21/2 tbs olive oil, plus extra to brush

carrot soup with herb puree and prosciutto crisps Serves 6 as a starter 4 slices prosciutto 1 tbs olive oil 2 eschalots, ﬁnely chopped 800g carrots, cut into 3cm pieces 1.25L (5 cups) chicken stock Finely grated zest of 1 orange and juice of 3 oranges Creme fraiche, to serve

3/4

Using an electric stand mixer ﬁtted with the dough hook attachment, mix the ﬂours, oil, 1/2 cup (125ml) warm water and 1 tsp ﬁne sea salt for 7 minutes on medium speed or until the dough is smooth. Transfer the dough to a lightly ﬂoured work surface and form into a ball. Divide the dough into 8 portions and place the portions on a lightly oiled baking tray. Cover and set aside at room temperature for 30 minutes to rest. Preheat the oven to 190°C. Line 2 large baking trays with baking paper. Set a pasta machine on the widest setting. Run the dough through a few times, folding it in half each time, until elastic. Keep rolling the dough through the settings, reducing the thickness each time, until 2mm thick. Lay the sheet on a baking tray. Repeat with the second piece of dough and place on the tray next to the other sheet. Repeat with 2 more pieces of dough and place on the second tray. (Reserve the remaining 4 pieces for a second batch). Using a pastry brush, lightly coat the dough sheets with oil and sprinkle with sea salt ﬂakes. Prick the dough sheets all over with a fork and bake, rotating pans halfway, for 10 minutes or until golden. Set aside to cool then break into pieces. Repeat with remaining 4 balls of dough.

Herb puree 1/2 bunch ﬂat-leaf parsley, leaves picked 2 tbs chopped chives 2 tbs chopped tarragon Preheat the oven to 220°C. Place the prosciutto on a baking tray lined with baking paper and bake for 8 minutes or until prosciutto is crisp and brittle. Transfer to a wire rack to cool completely. Break into small pieces and set aside until ready to serve. For the puree, place herbs in a small saucepan of boiling water and blanch for 2 minutes or until leaves start to break down. Drain and refresh in iced water. Drain the herbs and place in a small food processor. Season with a generous pinch of salt. Add 1 tbs water and blend until smooth. Cover and refrigerate. Heat oil in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the eschalot, then season and cook for 2 minutes or until tender. Add the carrot and cook, stirring occasionally, for 10 minutes or until starting to soften. Add the stock and cook for 40 minutes or until the carrot is tender and the stock has slightly reduced. Remove from the heat and stir in the orange juice and zest. Use a stick blender to blend until smooth. Serve the soup topped with herb puree, creme fraiche and prosciutto chips.

curtis stone.

Carrot soup with herb puree and prosciutto crisps

delicious. 65

curtis stone.

“The monthly menu is a little challenge to test our creativity in the kitchen: how far can you go with citrus?” fettuccine with prawns, ﬁnger lime and grapefruit beurre blanc Serves 4-6 2 tbs olive oil 1 fennel bulb, thinly sliced, fronds reserved 1/2 bunch cavolo nero (Tuscan cabbage), thinly sliced 1 long red chilli, thinly sliced 18 large green prawns, peeled (tails intact), deveined 400g fettuccine 3 ﬁnger limes (optional), peeled Grapefruit beurre blanc 1 cup (250ml) grapefruit juice, strained 1 cup (250ml) dry white wine 1 eschalot, thinly sliced 1 tarragon sprig 1/2 tsp whole black peppercorns 1/4 cup (60ml) pure (thin) cream 125g chilled unsalted butter, chopped Garlic chips 3 garlic cloves, thinly sliced Sunﬂower oil, to shallow-fry For the garlic chips, ﬁll a small saucepan with 3cm oil and place over medium heat. In 2 batches, add garlic and shallow-fry, stirring, for 1 minute or until golden. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the garlic to a piece of paper towel to drain.

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For the grapefruit beurre blanc, combine the grapefruit juice, wine, eschalot, tarragon, and peppercorns in a small saucepan over medium-low heat and simmer gently for 30 minutes or until the liquid is reduced to 1/3 cup (80ml). Strain the liquid and return to the saucepan. Place the saucepan over low heat and whisk in the cream. Add the butter, 1 piece at a time, whisking constantly to form a smooth, creamy sauce. Season with salt, remove from the heat and cover to keep warm, whisking occasionally. Heat a large frypan over medium-high heat. Add 1 tbs oil with the fennel slices and cook for 5 minutes or until golden and softened. Add the cavolo nero and chilli, then cook for a further 2 minutes or until the cavolo nero is just wilted. Season and remove fennel mixture from the pan. Return the pan to medium-high heat. Add remaining 1 tbs oil and prawns and cook, turning, for 4 minutes or until just cooked. Return the fennel mixture to the pan with the prawns and toss to combine. Meanwhile, cook the fettuccine in a saucepan of boiling salted water according to packet instructions or until al dente. Using tongs, transfer the pasta to the pan with the prawns, and toss to coat. Add the beurre blanc, fennel fronds and 1/4 cup (60ml) pasta cooking water. Season and toss to combine. Serve pasta immediately topped with garlic chips and ﬁnger lime pearls, if using.

lemon curd on brioche Makes 4 cups This curd is my dear mum Lozza’s recipe. It’s one of the ﬁrst things she taught me to make – we’d have it on toast for breakfast. You will need a kitchen thermometer. Store any leftover curd in an airtight jar in the fridge for up to 3 weeks. 5 eggs 11/4 cups (275g) caster sugar 1 cup (250ml) freshly squeezed lemon juice (from about 6 lemons) 250g unsalted butter, at room temperature, chopped Toasted brioche slices, icing sugar, ice cream and mint, to serve In a heatproof bowl, whisk together the eggs, caster sugar and lemon juice. Set the bowl over a saucepan of simmering water and whisk constantly for 10 minutes or until it reaches 85°C. The mixture should be smooth and thick, similar to hollandaise sauce. Remove the bowl from the heat and set aside to cool to 35°C. Whisk in the butter, 1 piece at a time, until combined, then strain through a ﬁne sieve. Cover the surface of the curd with plastic wrap to prevent a skin from forming. Cover and refrigerate for 3 hours or until thickened. Serve curd spread on toasted brioche, then dust with icing sugar and top with a scoop of ice cream and mint leaves. d.

Fettuccine with prawns, ﬁnger lime and grapefruit beurre blanc

Sydney-based author, food editor and baking whiz Anneka Manning’s new cooking school, BakeClub, celebrates the traditional art of baking and the timeless techniques that get passed through the generations.

cooking school.

Opposite: caramelised onion & blue cheese ﬂatbread. This page (clockwise from top left): BakeClub classes are hands on; Anneka Manning; chocolate chunk fudge & hazelnut cookies (recipe p 72); orange blossom cheesecake with pomegranate syrup (recipe p 74).

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cooking school.

caramelised onion & blue cheese ﬂatbread Serves 10 as a starter 20g unsalted butter 3 red onions, halved, thinly sliced 2 tbs brown sugar 150g gorgonzola dolce* (see Shopping list), crumbled 1/3 cup (50g) pine nuts Rocket leaves, to serve Flatbread dough 3 cups (450g) bread & pizza ﬂour* (see Shopping list), plus extra to dust 7g sachet dried instant yeast 1/4 cup (60ml) olive oil For the dough, combine ﬂour, yeast and 1 tsp salt in a large bowl and make a well in the centre. Combine oil and 1 cup (250ml) warm water, then add to the ﬂour mixture. Stir to combine, then use your hands to form into a soft dough. Turn out onto a lightly ﬂoured surface and knead for 5-8 minutes until smooth and elastic. Place the dough in an oiled bowl, turning to coat lightly with the oil. Cover

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with plastic wrap and rest in a warm place for 1 hour or until doubled in size. Meanwhile, to make the caramelised onion, place the butter and onion in a saucepan over medium heat and cook, stirring occasionally, for 12-15 minutes until onion is soft. Sprinkle with the sugar and cook, stirring, for 6-8 minutes until the onion is glossy and caramelised, and any excess liquid has evaporated. Remove from heat and set aside to cool. Preheat the oven to 230°C. Line a large baking tray with baking paper. Knock back the dough. Turn out onto a lightly ﬂoured surface and knead for 2-3 minutes until smooth and elastic. Roll out to a 1cm-thick 40cm x 25cm oval. Transfer to the lined baking tray. Top the dough with the caramelised onion, leaving a 1cm border, then sprinkle over the gorgonzola and pine nuts. Season with freshly ground black pepper and bake for 18-20 minutes until golden and cooked through. Allow the ﬂatbread to cool for 5 minutes, then scatter with rocket leaves. Slice into wedges and serve warm or at room temperature.

THE DELI & GOURMET SHOP Freeze-dried raspberries, have a long shelf life and add a crunchy texture to cake toppings and biscuit doughs. Available from: essentialingredient.com. au; substitute fresh or frozen, thawed berries. Gorgonzola dolce, mild creamy Italian blue cheese; substitute another soft blue cheese. Orange blossom water, traditionally used in Middle Eastern desserts to add a delicate ﬂoral ﬂavour. THE SUPERMARKET Bread & pizza ﬂour, (also known as ‘strong’ ﬂour) has a higher glutencontent than regular plain ﬂour and is more suited to use in yeast-based recipes.

STYLING BERNI SMITHIES

show that it doesn’t have to be tricky.”

RECIPES ANNEKA MANNING PHOTOGRAPHY ALAN BENSON

“I wanted to teach people how to bake and

OWNER Anneka Manning. STYLE Traditional baking techniques and heirloom recipes adapted to suit modern lifestyles. WHERE Catch Anneka at a number of locations, including Thredbo, NSW; Jindabyne, NSW; and Sydney’s Rosebery (see Out & About, p 17, for our exclusive reader event with Anneka in Rosebery) as well as private group classes at various locations around the country. UPCOMING CLASSES No Time to Bake, Thredbo, May 3; Monday Morning Cooking Club – Family Heirloom Baking, Sydney, June 2; Let’s Eat Cake, Sydney, June 15. All classes are $150/person. Visit: bakeclub.com.au.

WORDS HEIDI FINNANE

CREATING AN ETHEREAL SPONGE, complete with jam, cream and the CWA tick-of-approval is the stuff of baking dreams, but such techniques have become a forgotten craft in our busy lives (not to mention the proliferation of artisan bakeries and patisseries around the country making it so easy – and appealing – to cheat). With this in mind, Sydney-based author and food editor Anneka Manning created BakeClub. “I discovered that so many people loved the idea of baking, but they didn’t do it at home because it was too hard and they didn’t have the time,” says Anneka. “I wanted to bring back traditional skills and show people that baking doesn’t have to be tricky.” And so, drawing on her 23 years of experience in Australian food print media and her passion for baking, Anneka launched BakeClub a year ago. Each month Anneka hosts pop-up demonstrations and private classes in major cities and regional areas around the country. Classes are hands-on and focus on recipes that home cooks want to make. We joined Anneka for one of her 3-hour classes at a bright and airy studio in Sydney’s Rosebery where she guided us through baking 101, sharing her expert tips and tricks along the way. “BakeClub is about empowering people, so they enjoy baking,” she says.

layered white chocolate cake Serves 15 400g white chocolate, chopped 300g unsalted butter, cut into 1cm pieces 300ml milk 11/2 cups (330g) caster sugar 2 tsp vanilla extract 3 eggs, at room temperature, lightly beaten 3 cups (450g) plain ﬂour 3 tsp baking powder 1/2 cup (165g) good-quality raspberry jam Freeze-dried raspberries* (see Shopping list) or fresh raspberries, to decorate White chocolate ganache 750g white chocolate, chopped 1 cup (250ml) pure (thin) cream Preheat the oven to 160°C. Grease and line two 20cm round cake pans. Place chocolate, butter and milk in a saucepan over medium heat and cook, stirring, until melted and smooth. Transfer to a bowl and set aside to cool completely.

Add the sugar, vanilla and eggs to the chocolate mixture and whisk until well combined. Sift in the ﬂour and baking powder, then stir until just combined. Divide mixture evenly between cake pans and tap pans gently on a ﬂat surface to remove any air bubbles. Bake for 1 hour or until a skewer inserted into the centre comes out clean. Cool the cakes in pans for 10 minutes, then turn out onto a wire rack to cool completely. Meanwhile, for the ganache, place the chocolate and cream in a heatproof bowl set over a saucepan of simmering water (don’t let the bowl touch the water), stirring until smooth and melted. Remove bowl from heat and cover with plastic

wrap. Chill, stirring occasionally, for 11/2 hours or until it reaches a thick spreadable consistency. Divide the ganache into three portions (you will use 1 portion for the ﬁlling and the remaining 2 to ice the cake) and use immediately. To assemble the cake, trim the top of the cooled cakes to level, then slice each cake in half horizontally. Place one cake layer on a serving plate, and spread with one-third of the ganache ﬁlling, then top with 2 tbs jam. Repeat layering two more times, ﬁnishing with a ﬁnal layer of cake. Using a palette knife, spread remaining ganache icing over the top and sides of the cake. Decorate the cake with freeze-dried raspberries, then serve.

cooking school.

chicken, leek & thyme pies with simple ﬂaky pastry Makes 6 400g desiree potatoes, peeled, cut into 2cm pieces 60g unsalted butter 2 leeks (pale part only), halved lengthways, chopped 1 celery stalk, thinly sliced 4 prosciutto slices, chopped 1/3 cup (50g) plain ﬂour 1/2 cup (125ml) milk 2 quantities Anneka’s simple ﬂaky pastry (recipe follows) 10 thyme sprigs, leaves removed 1 egg, lightly beaten with 2 tsp milk Poached chicken 1.5kg whole chicken 2 carrots, thinly sliced 2 celery stalks, thinly sliced 1 onion, unpeeled, quartered 2 bay leaves 10 whole peppercorns For the chicken, place all ingredients in a large saucepan or stockpot and add enough cold water to cover the chicken by about 2cm. Cover with a lid and bring to the boil over medium heat. Reduce heat to low and gently poach for 40 minutes or until the chicken is just cooked through. Remove the chicken from stock, transfer to a bowl and place in the fridge to cool. Strain the stock, discarding the solids. (The stock can be reserved and kept frozen for up to 3 months). Return 1.5L ( 6 cups) stock to the saucepan and bring to the boil. Add the potato and boil for 8 minutes or until just tender. Remove the potato from the stock with a slotted spoon and set aside. Continue boiling the stock for a further 15 minutes or until reduced to 2 cups (500ml). Set aside. Meanwhile, shred the chicken meat, discarding the skin and bones. Cover and chill until needed. Melt 20g butter in a saucepan over medium-low heat. Add the leek, celery and prosciutto, then cook, stirring

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occasionally, for 15 minutes or until the vegetables are just soft. Transfer to a bowl and set aside. Melt the remaining 40g butter in a saucepan over medium heat. Add the ﬂour and whisk for 1 minute. Remove pan from heat and gradually add the reduced stock and milk, stirring constantly, until smooth and combined. Return pan to medium heat and cook, stirring constantly, until thickened and simmering. Remove from heat and transfer to a large bowl. Stir in the shredded chicken, potato and leek mixture, then season well with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Chill for 1 hour or until cooled. Preheat the oven to 200°C. Grease six 3/4 cup (185ml) ovenproof dishes or ramekins. Roll out the pastry on a lightly ﬂoured work surface until 4mm thick. Using the top of one of the dishes as a guide, cut out 6 rounds of pastry. Divide the chicken mixture among the dishes and top each pie with some thyme leaves. Brush the edge of the dish with a little of the egg wash, then place a piece of pastry over each pie. Press down the edges with a fork to seal. Cut a small cross or two slits in the top of each pie, then brush pastry with a little egg wash to glaze. Place the pies on a baking tray and bake for 25-30 minutes until the pastry is golden and crisp. Serve pies straight from the oven.

anneka’s simple ﬂaky pastry Makes 3-4 individual pie tops or one 25cm pie top 11/4 cups (185g) plain ﬂour 125g unsalted butter, frozen Combine the ﬂour and a pinch of salt in a bowl. Holding the frozen butter with a piece of foil or baking paper (this will prevent it from melting), coarsely grate onto a chilled plate. Add grated butter to the ﬂour, then using a round-bladed knife or palette knife, cut through the

ﬂour and butter until mixed and evenly combined. Sprinkle 1/3 cup (80ml) chilled water over the ﬂour and butter mixture. Using the knife again in a cutting motion, mix until evenly combined and the mixture starts holding together. Press a little of the mixture between your ﬁngers, if it holds together easily, there is no need to add more water. If it doesn’t, add an extra 1 tsp chilled water, then test again. Bring the pastry together with your hands and transfer to a lightly ﬂoured, cool work surface. Lightly knead the pastry with your ﬁngertips for 30 seconds or until smooth and soft (the butter pieces will be visible in the pastry). Shape the pastry into a disc, then enclose in plastic wrap and chill for 30 minutes before using.

chocolate chunk fudge & hazelnut cookies Makes about 35 These cookies will keep in an airtight container in a cool place for up to 2 weeks. 450g good-quality dark chocolate, roughly chopped 125g unsalted butter, softened 1/2 ﬁrmly packed cup (125g) brown sugar 2 eggs, at room temperature 11/2 cups (225g) plain ﬂour 1/2 tsp baking powder 3/4 cup (100g) roughly chopped roasted hazelnuts Place 300g dark chocolate in a heatproof bowl set over a saucepan of simmering water (don’t let the bowl touch the water). Stir over low heat until the chocolate is melted and smooth. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool. Beat the butter and sugar with electric beaters until thick and pale. Add the eggs, 1 at a time, beating well after each addition until well combined. Add the cooled chocolate and beat until combined. Sift the ﬂour and baking powder together, then fold into the mixture. Add the hazelnuts and remaining 150g dark chocolate, then stir until evenly combined. Cover the bowl with plastic

1. Roll out the pastry on a lightly ﬂoured work surface until 4mm thick. 2. Brush the edge of the dish with a little eggwash so the pastry adheres during cooking. 3. Brush the pastry with a little eggwash for a golden crust. 4. Serve the pies straight from the oven.

cooking school.

wrap and chill for 1 hour or until the mixture is ﬁrm enough to roll into balls. Preheat the oven to 180°C. Line a large baking tray with baking paper. Roll heaped tablespoonfuls of the cookie dough into balls and place on the baking tray, spaced 5cm apart. Place any remaining dough back in the fridge. Use your hands to ﬂatten the balls slightly until 4cm in diameter, then bake for 10 minutes or until they are still slightly soft to the touch. Remove the cookies from the oven and cool completely on the tray. Repeat with the remaining dough.

orange blossom cheesecake with pomegranate syrup Serves 10 100g plain sweet biscuits (we used morning coffee biscuits) 50g unsalted butter, melted 375g cream cheese, at room temperature, cut into 1cm pieces 3 eggs, at room temperature 3/4 cup (185g) sour cream 1/2 cup (125ml) pure (thin) cream 3/4 cup (165g) caster sugar 1 tbs ﬁnely grated orange zest 3 tsp orange blossom water* (see Shopping list, p 70) Orange & pomegranate syrup Seeds of 1 pomegranate, juice reserved 1/4 cup (55g) caster sugar 1/2 cup (125ml) orange juice, strained Preheat the oven to 150°C. Grease a 20cm springform cake pan and line the base with baking paper. Place the biscuits in a food processor and whiz until ﬁne crumbs. Add the melted butter and whiz until combined. Sprinkle biscuit mixture over the base of the pan and press down to cover evenly. Place the pan on a baking tray and chill for 30 minutes. Whiz cream cheese in the cleaned food processor until smooth. Add eggs and whiz to combine, then add the sour

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cream, cream, sugar, orange zest and orange blossom water, and whiz until well combined, scraping down the side and base of the bowl if necessary. Remove the pan from the fridge and pour mixture over the biscuit base. Gently tap the pan on the bench to remove any air bubbles, then bake for 1 hour and 10 minutes or until the cheesecake is just set but the centre still has a slight wobble when gently shaken. Turn off the oven and cool the cheesecake in the oven with the door ajar for at least 1 hour (this helps prevent the top of the cheesecake from cracking). Transfer the cheesecake to the fridge and chill for at least 3 hours. For the pomegranate syrup, strain the juice from the seeds into a small saucepan and set the seeds aside. Add sugar and orange juice to the pan and stir over medium-low heat until sugar dissolves. Bring to a simmer and cook for 10 minutes or until the syrup has thickened and reduced to 1/3 cup (80ml). Remove from the heat and set aside to cool. Once cool, stir in the reserved pomegranate seeds. Slice the cheesecake into wedges and top with pomegranate syrup to serve.

gluten-free mandarin, coconut & polenta cake with toffee mandarins Serves 10 2 large mandarins 1 cup (100g) almond meal 1/2 cup (90g) instant polenta 1/2 cup (45g) desiccated coconut 1/2 tsp baking powder 3 eggs, at room temperature 3/4 cup (165g) caster sugar 11/2 tsp vanilla extract Double thick cream, to serve Toffee mandarins 4 mandarins, peeled, thinly sliced 1 cup (220g) caster sugar Place the whole mandarins in a small saucepan and cover with water (if necessary, top with a small saucer

and a sheet of baking paper to keep the mandarins submerged). Bring to the boil, then cook for 45 minutes or until very soft when tested with a skewer. Drain and set aside to cool. Preheat the oven to 160°C. Line the base and sides of a 20cm springform cake pan with baking paper. Quarter the boiled mandarins, discarding the core and any seeds. Whiz in a small food processor until smooth. Set puree aside. Combine the almond meal, polenta, coconut and baking powder in a bowl and stir to combine. Beat the eggs, sugar and vanilla with electric beaters until very thick and pale and a ribbon trail forms when the beater is lifted (this will take about 3-4 minutes). Fold the mandarin puree into the egg mixture until just combined, then fold in polenta mixture until evenly combined. Pour the mixture into the prepared pan and smooth the surface with the back of a spoon. Bake for 40-45 minutes until the cake is ﬁrm to the touch and a skewer inserted into the centre comes out clean. Cool the cake in the pan for 5 minutes before releasing the pan and transferring the cake, still on the base, to a wire rack to cool completely. Meanwhile, for the toffee mandarins, line a large baking tray with baking paper and arrange the mandarin slices in a single layer on the tray. Place the sugar and 1/3 cup (80ml) water in a small saucepan and stir over medium heat, without boiling, until the sugar dissolves. Bring to the boil, without stirring, and cook, occasionally brushing the sides of the pan with a pastry brush dipped in water to remove any sugar crystals, for 7-10 minutes until golden. Remove from heat and drizzle half the toffee evenly over the mandarin slices. Set mandarins aside to cool. Add 1/4 cup (60ml) water to the remaining toffee and stir to combine and form a syrup. Pour the hot toffee syrup over the cake and set aside to cool. Serve the cake topped with the toffee mandarin slices and cream on the side. d.

Gluten-free mandarin, coconut & polenta cake with toffee mandarins

RECIPES WARREN MENDES

PHOTOGRAPHY BEN DEARNLEY STYLING BERNI SMITHIES

Experimenting with global cuisines doesn’t have to be tricky when you can whip up a Sri Lankan ﬁsh curry or lamb schnitzel with slaw in 30 minutes or less.

sri lankan salmon curry Serves 4 2 garlic cloves 3cm piece ginger, sliced 2 tsp each panch phoran* and whole coriander seeds 1 tbs mild madras curry powder 2 small green chillies, chopped 2 tbs sunﬂower oil 1 onion, chopped 4 tomatoes, chopped 10 curry leaves 1 bunch broccolini 270ml can coconut milk 600g skinless salmon ﬁllets, cut into 3cm pieces Shredded coconut, lime wedges, chutney and warmed roti, to serve

To make the curry paste, place the garlic, ginger, spices and chilli in a mortar and pestle and grind to a paste. Set aside. Heat oil in a saucepan over medium heat. Add onion and cook for 3-4 minutes until softened. Add the curry paste and cook, stirring, for a 2 minutes or until fragrant. Add the tomato, curry leaves and broccolini, then cook for a further 2 minutes. Add the coconut milk and 1/2 cup (125ml) water, then bring to a simmer. Add the salmon, season and cook for a ﬁnal 5 minutes or until the salmon is just cooked. Garnish the curry with shredded coconut and serve immediately with lime wedges, chutney and warmed roti.

* Panch phoran is an Indian whole spice mix available from gourmet food shops. delicious. 77

daily special.

mushroom san choy bow Serves 4 1/4

cup (60ml) peanut oil 600g mixed mushrooms (such as shiitake, enoki, oyster, button), ﬁnely chopped 2 small carrots, ﬁnely chopped 1/2 bunch spring onions, ﬁnely chopped 1 bunch coriander, roots chopped, leaves picked 1 long red chilli, seeds removed, ﬁnely chopped 1 tbs grated ginger

1 garlic clove, ﬁnely chopped 11/2 tbs ﬁsh sauce 1/4 cup (60ml) kecap manis* 1/3 cup (50g) unsalted peanuts, chopped Iceberg lettuce leaves and bean sprouts, to serve Heat 1 tbs oil in a wok over high heat. Stir-fry half the mushroom for 1 minute or until just cooked, then remove and set aside. Repeat with another 1 tbs oil and the remaining mushroom. Add remaining 1 tbs oil to the wok and stir-fry carrot and spring onion for

1-2 minutes until slightly softened. Add the coriander root, chilli, ginger and garlic, then stir-fry for a further 1-2 minutes until fragrant. Add ﬁsh sauce and kecap manis and stir-fry for 1-2 minutes, then return the mushroom to the wok and toss to coat. Stir through half the peanuts and coriander leaves. Serve in lettuce cups sprinkled with bean sprouts and remaining peanuts and coriander leaves.

* Kecap manis (Indonesian sweet soy sauce) is available from selected supermarkets and Asian grocers.

meatballs with risoni Serves 4 600g Italian pork sausages 2 tbs olive oil 75g pancetta, chopped 1 onion, ﬁnely chopped 2 garlic cloves, ﬁnely chopped 400g risoni or orzo pasta 400g can chopped tomatoes 1 tbs tomato paste 1 cup (250ml) red wine Finely chopped ﬂat-leaf parsley leaves and grated parmesan, to serve Squeeze the meat from the sausage skins, discarding the skins. Roll sausage meat into 20 walnut-sized balls. Heat oil in a deep frypan over medium heat and cook the meatballs, turning, for 3-4 minutes until golden. Remove and set aside. Add pancetta to the pan and cook for 2-3 minutes until slightly crisp, then add the onion and garlic, and cook for a further 2-3 minutes until slightly softened. Add risoni and stir to coat, then add the chopped tomatoes, tomato paste, wine and 2 cups (500ml) hot water. Season and bring to a simmer, stirring, then return the meatballs to the pan. Reduce heat to low and cook for a ﬁnal 10 minutes or until the risoni is cooked and liquid has absorbed. Divide among bowls and scatter with chopped parsley and parmesan to serve.

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daily special. spanish-style chorizo & pipi soup Serves 4 1 tbs olive oil 25g unsalted butter 1 leek (pale part only), halved lengthways, sliced 2 garlic cloves, ﬁnely chopped 110g chorizo, halved lengthways, sliced 330ml bottle apple cider 400g can cannellini beans, rinsed, drained 1L (4 cups) good-quality ﬁsh or chicken stock 2 tbs plain ﬂour 1kg fresh pipis* or clams (vongole) 1/2 cup (125ml) pure (thin) cream 1/2 bunch chives, chopped or 1 baguette, sliced and toasted

Heat oil and butter in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the leek and cook, stirring, for 5-6 minutes until softened. Add garlic and chorizo, and cook, stirring occasionally, for a further 2-3 minutes until fragrant. Add the cider, beans and ﬁsh stock, then bring to a simmer. Dissolve the ﬂour in 1/3 cup (80ml) hot water and add to the pan, stirring to combine. Add the pipis to the pan and cook, covered, for 2-3 minutes until they open. Add the cream, season and stir until combined. Remove from heat and divide among bowls. Scatter with chives and serve with toasted baguette.

* Pipis are available from ﬁshmongers.

baked lamb schnitzel with celeriac slaw Serves 4 4 x 150g lamb rump steaks, fat trimmed 1 cup (50g) panko breadcrumbs* 1 tbs ﬁnely chopped rosemary 40g parmesan, ﬁnely grated 2 eggs, lightly beaten 1/4 cup (35g) plain ﬂour, seasoned 100g green beans, blanched, sliced in half lengthways 1 celeriac*, trimmed, peeled, sliced into matchsticks 1 cup baby spinach, thinly sliced 1/4 cup (75g) aioli Juice of 1/2 lemon, plus wedges to serve

Preheat oven to 225ºC. Place the lamb between 2 pieces of plastic wrap and ﬂatten with a rolling pin until 1.5cm thick. Combine panko, rosemary and parmesan in a bowl. Place eggs in a second bowl and ﬂour in a third bowl. Dust lamb in the ﬂour, then dip in the egg and coat in the crumbs. Place on a baking paper-lined baking tray. Bake, turning halfway, for 20 minutes or until golden and cooked through. Meanwhile to make the slaw, combine the beans, celeriac, spinach, aioli and lemon juice in a bowl. Season and serve with the schnitzel and lemon wedges.

* Panko are coarse Japanese breadcrumbs from supermarkets. Celeriac is a root vegetable available in the cooler months from greengrocers. delicious. 81

daily special. green harissa chicken with baked couscous Serves 4

11/2 cups (375ml) chicken stock 11/2 cups (300g) instant couscous 400g pumpkin, cut into 1cm pieces

2 long green chillies, chopped 1 garlic clove, chopped 1 lemon, zest ﬁnely grated, lemon cut into wedges 1 tsp ground coriander 1 tsp ground cumin 1/2 cup (125ml) olive oil 1/2 bunch coriander 4 chicken thigh ﬁllets, (skin on, bone in)

To make the harissa, place the chilli, garlic, lemon zest, 1/2 tsp each ground coriander and cumin, 1/3 cup (80ml) olive oil and the coriander in a small food processor. Season with salt and pulse until smooth. Rub half the harissa over the chicken and set aside for 30 minutes to marinate. Preheat oven to 200ºC. Place stock in a ﬂame-proof roasting pan over medium heat. Bring to a simmer then remove from

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heat and stir in the couscous. Set aside for 5 minutes for liquid to absorb, then ﬂuff with a fork. Add the pumpkin, 1 tbs oil and remaining 1/2 tsp each ground cumin and coriander. Season and toss to combine. Heat remaining 1 tbs oil in a frypan over medium heat and cook chicken, skin-side down, for 3-4 minutes until slightly golden. Place chicken, skin-side up, on top of the couscous with the lemon wedges and bake for 30-35 minutes until chicken is cooked through, pumpkin is tender and couscous is golden. Squeeze over roasted lemons and serve with remaining harissa.

rolled pork belly with apple & raisin stuffing Serves 4 1/2

apple, peeled, cored, chopped (40g) raisins, chopped 2 fennel bulbs, stalks ﬁnely chopped, bulb sliced lengthways 1 tsp sweet paprika 2 garlic cloves, ﬁnely chopped 1/4 cup (60ml) olive oil 1kg boneless pork belly, skin scored 1 tbs brown sugar 6 carrots, halved lengthways 1 tbs plain ﬂour 11/2 cups (375ml) chicken stock 1/4 cup

Preheat oven to 225ºC. To make the stufﬁng, combine apple, raisins, fennel stalks, paprika, garlic and 1 tbs oil. Season. Place pork belly on the bench. Use a sharp knife to remove one third of the pork skin from the short side of the belly.

Turn the belly over and place the stufﬁng along the skinless end. Roll pork belly tightly and tie with kitchen string. Pat the skin dry and rub with salt. Place on a wire rack set in a roasting pan ﬁlled with 1cm water. Roast for 30 minutes or until the fat turns golden. Reduce oven to 150ºC and roast for a further 1 hour. Combine fennel bulb and carrot in a bowl with sugar and remaining 2 tbs oil, then season and toss to combine. Add to the rack and roast, topping up water if necessary, for 1 hour. Increase heat to 225ºC and roast for a ﬁnal 10 minutes or until pork is tender and skin is puffed and golden. Transfer pork and vegetables to a platter and rest for 10 minutes. Skim excess fat from pan juices and place pan over medium-high heat. Add ﬂour and cook, scraping pan, for 2 minutes, then add stock and cook for 2-3 minutes until thickened. Season gravy, strain and serve with sliced pork and vegetables. d.

In their second book, The Feast Goes On, Sydney’s Monday Morning Cooking Club share treasured family recipes from Jewish home cooks brought to Australia from all corners of the globe.

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exclusive extract.

Claypot snapper with burghul pilaf

WHEN SIX WOMEN from Sydney’s Jewish community began meeting up to cook together every Monday morning to keep alive heirloom family dishes, little did they know that their vision to tell the story of their heritage through food while raising money for charity would take them so far. The not-for-proﬁt group, which started in 2006 and includes Lisa Goldberg, Natanya Eskin, Merelyn Chalmers, Lauren Fink, Paula Horwitz and Jacqui Israel, realised their dream in 2011 with their ﬁrst book Monday Morning Cooking Club. Their latest book, The Feast Goes On, is a collection of treasured recipes from Jewish families from all corners of the globe, from the Middle East to Europe and even Asia, eager to tell their story through food. “We felt privileged to have a glimpse into the food that graces tables each night and on the Friday night Shabbat dinner and festivals,” says Lisa who hosts the group in her kitchen. “Choosing recipes was a difficult job – culling was hard as we were emotionally attached to the cooks as well as the dishes.” The result is a beautiful book of heirloom recipes and the stories behind them. Visit: mondaymorningcookingclub.com.au.

“We felt privileged to have a glimpse into the food that

“I WAS FIVE YEARS old when we emigrated from Turkey. My mother worked very hard to make a new life in Australia and to put a cooked meal on the table every night. Growing up there was always something soaking – maybe lentils or beans, and this inspired my love of cooking legumes in many traditional Turkish dishes. I am always experimenting and ﬁnding the ﬂavours and smells that were part of my childhood home.” Ata Gokyildrim

claypot snapper with burghul pilaf Serves 4 You will need a claypot or a large, shallow ceramic baking dish. 4 large (about 750g in total) skinless snapper ﬁllets Ata’s spice mix – 1 tsp each ground cumin, sweet paprika, hot paprika, ground turmeric, baharat (aromatic Middle Eastern spice blend) and ground chilli

50g softened unsalted butter, chopped 1/2 bunch ﬂat-leaf parsley leaves, roughly chopped 1 lemon, thinly sliced 1 tbs olive oil Burghul pilaf 30g unsalted butter 1/4 cup (40g) crushed Turkish soup noodles* (see Shopping list, p 88) or crushed ﬁne egg vermicelli 11/4 cups (200g) burghul (cracked wheat) 1 small handful ﬂat-leaf parsley leaves, roughly chopped Toss the ﬁsh ﬁllets with the spice mix, butter and three-quarters of the chopped parsley to coat, then place in a claypot or large, shallow ovenproof dish. Set aside to marinate at room temperature for 30 minutes. Preheat the oven to 210°C. Season the ﬁsh generously with sea salt,

top with the lemon slices and drizzle with olive oil. Cover with foil or a lid and roast for 20 minutes. Uncover, then return to the oven for 5 minutes or until the ﬁsh is just cooked through. Meanwhile, for the burghul pilaf, melt the butter in a frypan over medium heat. Add the noodles and stir to combine. Add the burghul and cook for a further 1 minute, then add 1 cup (250ml) hot water. Cover with a lid, reduce heat to low and cook for 5 minutes or until the burghul softens and the water is absorbed. Add another 1/2 cup (125ml) hot water, stir to combine, cover with the lid and cook for 2 minutes or until the water is absorbed (if the burghul is not tender once all the water has been absorbed, add a little more water and steam until just cooked.) Stir the parsley through the burghul and season with salt. Garnish the ﬁsh with the remaining parsley leaves and serve straight from the claypot with the burghul pilaf.

RECIPES MONDAY MORNING COOKING CLUB, ATA GOKYILDRIM, REUBEN SOLOMON,MIRI COLLIS, COLETTE LEVY & ESTHER WAKERMAN PHOTOGRAPHY ALAN BENSON STYLING DAVID MORGAN

graces tables for the Friday night Shabbat dinner.”

exclusive extract.

REUBEN SOLOMON, from Rangoon, Burma, and his wife, well-known Sri Lankan food writer Charmaine, migrated to Australia in 1959. They both loved the exotic food that they left behind, but since Sydney in the late 1950s offered no similar options, they learned to cook it for themselves. Reuben faithfully recreated his much-loved Burmese dishes and this ‘chicken Everest’ became a staple after he created it for a cooking competition.

Serves 4-6

1 tsp sweet paprika 2 tsp salt 1/2 tsp freshly ground black pepper 1 tsp garam masala (Indian spice mix) 2 tbs lemon juice 10 fresh curry leaves 2 tsp light soy sauce 2 tbs sunﬂower oil 2 tbs ground rice* (see Shopping list, p 88) 3 spring onions, chopped Small handful coriander leaves 1.5kg whole chicken Saffron pilaf, to serve

2 garlic cloves, ﬁnely chopped 2 tsp ﬁnely grated ginger 11/2 tbs curry powder

Combine all the ingredients, except the chicken and saffron pilaf, in a food processor and whiz to a paste. Add a

chicken everest

little warm water, if necessary, until a spreading consistency. Carefully run your hand under the skin of the chicken breast and thighs, being careful not to tear the skin, then rub some of the paste onto the breast under the skin, then rub the remaining paste over the skin and into the cavity. Cover and chill for at least 1 hour to marinate. Preheat the oven to 170°C. Place the chicken in an oiled roasting pan and roast for 11/4 hours or until golden and the juices run clear when the thigh is pierced with a skewer. Cover with foil if browning too quickly. Remove from the oven and rest, loosely covered with foil, for 15 minutes. Serve warm or cooled with pilaf.

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THE MIDDLE EASTERN GROCER Turkish soup noodles, traditional egg noodles; substitute vermicelli. Ground rice, coarse ﬂour made from white rice. THE SUPERMARKET ‘00’ ﬂour, super ﬁne Italian ﬂour. THE DELI OR GOURMET SHOP Fresh yeast, highly perishable and should be stored in the refrigerator. Available in packs, it should be ﬁrm and moist. Use within 2 weeks.

Slow-cooked beef with ras el hanout

“This recipe reminds me of my grandmother coming to our place to help my mother.” “I WAS BORN IN ISRAEL to a Moroccan family and I remember coming home from school to ﬁnd my parents in the kitchen preparing for Shabbat. Growing up we often had similar slowcooked aromatic dishes for Shabbat lunch. This recipe reminds me of my grandmother coming to our place in the afternoon to help my mother. The dish would slow-cook all night and the smell in the house on Shabbat morning was so warm and wonderful.” Miri Collis

slow-cooked beef with ras el hanout Serves 4-6 1kg chuck steak, trimmed, cut into 2.5cm pieces 2 small onions, ﬁnely chopped 2 garlic cloves, crushed

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2 tbs olive oil 2 tsp ras el hanout spice mix (recipe follows) or use store-bought 2 small red chillies, seeds removed, ﬁnely chopped 1/4 tsp each sea salt and freshly ground black pepper 4 tomatoes 11/2 preserved lemon quarters 2 tsp honey 1 bunch coriander, roughly chopped 1 bunch ﬂat-leaf parsley, roughly chopped Preheat the oven to 140°C. Place the beef in a deep casserole dish. Add the onion, garlic, oil, ras el hanout, chilli, salt and pepper, and toss to combine. Halve the tomatoes widthways, and squeeze to remove seeds and discard. Coarsely grate the tomatoes down

to the skin, straight into the casserole, discarding the skins. Rinse the preserved lemon, remove the pulp and white pith and ﬁnely chop the rind. Add to the beef with the honey and a small handful each of the chopped coriander and parsley. Stir well, cover and cook in the oven for at least 31/2 hours or until the meat is tender. The juice from the meat should keep the dish moist, but check after 11/2 hours of cooking and add a little extra water if necessary. When the meat is cooked through and very tender, transfer to a serving dish, scatter over remaining herbs and serve.

ras el hanout Makes 60g 1/2

tsp each ground cloves and cayenne pepper 2 tsp each ground allspice, ground cumin, ground ginger, ground turmeric, freshly ground black pepper and ground cardamom 3 tsp each ground cinnamon and ground coriander 11/2 tbs freshly grated nutmeg Combine all the spices in a jar. Seal and shake well. Store in a cool dark place.

exclusive extract.

Basboussa

“GROWING UP IN CAIRO was glorious. There were family meals, always prepared by my mother and I loved the comforting smell of all the spices in her kitchen. I have been making this basboussa recipe for nearly 40 years and today I enjoy making it for my grandchildren as a treat. I love the sweet syrupy ﬂavour and the crunch of the almonds.” Colette Levy

golden. Remove from the oven and spoon the cooled syrup over the hot basboussa, then return to the oven for a further 10 minutes. Turn the oven off, leaving the basboussa inside for a further 30 minutes to rest and cool slightly. Remove from the pan and cut into the scored diamonds to serve. Store in an airtight container for up to 3 weeks.

basboussa (semolina syrup cake)

“MY MOTHER SHARI’S Hungarian/

Makes 25 pieces

Romanian cooking was known throughout the community, especially her amazing cugloaf. It became a tradition in our family to break the Yom Kippur fast with cugloaf at Nanna Shari’s place and, since my parents passed away, we have continued this tradition at our home – our children love it so much. It is so satisfying to see my family enjoying it with such relish, and I always feel my mother is looking down and smiling.” Esther Wakerman

2 cups (360g) ﬁne semolina 1 cup (220g) caster sugar 21/4 tsp baking powder 250g unsalted butter, melted 1/4 tsp vanilla sugar 1 cup (250ml) milk 25 blanched almonds Sugar syrup 2 cups (440g) caster sugar Juice of 1/2 lemon 1/4 tsp vanilla extract Combine semolina, sugar, baking powder, butter, vanilla sugar and 1/2 cup (125ml) milk in a bowl. Set mixture aside at room temperature for 30 minutes to absorb. Preheat the oven to 180°C. Grease and line the base and sides of a 27cm x 18cm rectangular baking pan with baking paper, leaving plenty overhanging the sides (this will ensure the basboussa is easy to remove). Add the remaining 1/2 cup (125ml) milk to semolina mixture and stir to combine. Pour into the prepared pan, then bake for 20-25 minutes until just golden on top and slightly set. Meanwhile, combine all the sugar syrup ingredients together in a saucepan with 1 cup (250ml) water and simmer until the sugar dissolves. Cook for a further 5-7 minutes until the liquid has thickened. Set aside to cool. Remove basboussa from the oven and make diagonal cuts from corner to corner, spaced 3-4cm apart, to create diamond shapes. Press an almond, pointy side up, into each diamond. Return to the oven and bake for a further 20 minutes or until

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shari’s cugloaf Makes 3 loafs 500g ‘00’ ﬂour* (see Shopping list, p 88), plus extra to dust 35g fresh yeast* (see Shopping list, p 88) 1/2 cup (110g) caster sugar 120ml milk 2 eggs 150g sour cream 1 tbs sunﬂower oil Chocolate ﬁlling 375g softened unsalted butter 3/4 cup (165g) caster sugar 300g drinking chocolate Place the ﬂour in a large bowl and make a well in the centre. Crumble the yeast into the well and sprinkle 1 tbs caster sugar on top. Warm 100ml milk and pour half over the yeast mixture. Set aside for 5 minutes or until the yeast starts to froth, then pour over remaining warm milk and set aside for a further 10 minutes or until it froths again. Break one egg into the well and add the sour cream, oil, 1 tsp salt, 11/2 tbs hot water and remaining caster sugar and 1 tbs milk. Mix until it forms a sticky dough.

Using an electric mixer ﬁtted with a dough hook, or by hand, knead for 10-15 minutes, adding a little more ﬂour and milk or water if necessary to form a smooth elastic dough that comes away from the side of the bowl. Transfer to an oiled bowl, cover with a clean tea towel and set aside in a warm place for 2 hours or until well risen. Meanwhile, for the ﬁlling, place all the ﬁlling ingredients in a bowl and mix with a wooden spoon until well combined and the consistency of a creamy icing. Preheat the oven to 180°C. Grease a 32 x 22cm rectangular baking pan. When the dough has risen, divide it into three balls. Each ball will make one cugloaf. Working individually, knead a ball on a well-ﬂoured board, then roll out until it is very thin and shape into a 40cm-long rectangle. Spread one-third of the chocolate ﬁlling right to the edge, completely covering the dough. Turn over the edge the whole way around to make a 1cm border, then, starting at the side closest to you, roll up the pastry to make a long sausage or strudel shape. Place in the prepared pan, seam side down. Repeat with the other balls of dough and the remaining ﬁlling, laying them close together in the pan so the logs touch each other. Cover the pan with a clean tea towel and set aside for a further 30 minutes to rise. Lightly beat the remaining egg, then brush the logs with the egg wash and bake for 40 minutes or until a dark golden and cooked through. Leave to cool, then separate the logs. The cugloafs can be served one at a time. d.

The Feast Goes On by Monday Morning Cooking Club (Harper Collins Australia, $49.95), is out now.

CHICKEN EVEREST (P 87) REPRODUCED WITH PERMISSION FROM CHARMAINE SOLOMON’S COMPLETE ASIAN COOKBOOK, HARDIE GRANT 1976, COMPLETELY REVISED AND UPDATED 2011. SLOW-COOKED BEEF WITH RAS EL HANOUT (P 88) ADAPTED AND REPRODUCED WITH PERMISSION FROM THE RECIPE ‘SLOW COOKED BEEF WITH HERBS’ IN THE FOOD OF MOROCCO BY TESS MALLOS, MURDOCH BOOKS 2008.

exclusive extract.

Shari’s cugloaf

Grain exchange Whether you’re following a gluten-free diet or simply want to explore the vast world of wholegrains, cereals and seeds, there’s plenty of inspiration to be found online. We’ve collected creative gluten-free baking ideas from some of the best wholefood bloggers – from a US-based Basque food stylist to a Canadian green-thumb.

My Darling Lemon Thyme’s ﬂourless chocolate & cardamom cake (recipe p 96). Below centre: Eleanor Ozich of Petite Kitchen.

92 delicious.

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Cannelle et Vanille’s roast beetroot, caramelised onion and goat’s cheese tarts

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THE FIRST MESS Vegetable gardener Laura Wright’s home is nestled between a peach orchard and a vineyard in southern Ontario, Canada, where she develops, photographs and shares vibrant, wholefood recipes on her blog. She’s spent time in restaurants and at culinary school, but created her vegetarian blog to inspire people to cook healthy, nourishing food at home. Laura’s passion for natural foods, eating seasonally and sharing wholesome meals with the important people in her life is evident in every post. Visit: theﬁrstmess.com.

vegan banana bread granola bars Makes 16 bars Store in an airtight container for 1 week. 3 overripe bananas 1/4 cup (70g) nut butter* (we used almond – see Shopping list, p 96) 1/4 cup (60ml) brown rice syrup* (see Shopping list, p 96) 2 tbs maple syrup 1 tbs extra virgin coconut oil* (see Shopping list, p 96), plus extra to grease 1 tsp ground cinnamon 3 cups (270g) rolled oats (make sure they’re certiﬁed gluten-free) 11/4 cup (150g) chopped, toasted, mixed nuts and seeds (we used walnuts, hazelnuts and black sesame seeds) 1/2 cup (95g) dairy-free chocolate chips* (see Shopping list, p 96) Chocolate drizzle 1/2 cup (90g) dairy-free chocolate chips* (see Shopping list, p 96) 1 tbs each almond milk and extra virgin coconut oil* (see Shopping list, p 96) Preheat the oven to 180°C. Grease a 20cm × 30cm lamington pan with

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coconut oil and line with baking paper, leaving plenty overhanging the sides. Place the bananas, nut butter, brown rice syrup, maple syrup, coconut oil, cinnamon and 1/2 tsp salt in a food processor, and whiz to combine. In a large bowl, combine the oats, chopped nuts, seeds and chocolate chips, then stir to combine. Add the banana mixture and stir to combine. Transfer the mixture to the prepared pan. Smooth the surface and press down to compact. Bake for 40 minutes or until golden. Remove from the oven and allow to cool completely. Cut into 16 rectangles. For the chocolate drizzle, combine the ingredients in a heatproof bowl set over a saucepan of simmering water (don’t let the bowl touch the water), stirring constantly, until melted and combined. Drizzle the melted chocolate mixture over granola bars. Transfer to the fridge for 30 minutes or until ﬁrm.

CANNELLE ET VANILLE A Basque expat living in Florida, Aran Goyoaga is a food writer, stylist, photographer and mother of two. After discovering she had a gluten intolerance, she adopted a strict gluten-free diet and her blog offers an insight into her world of gluten-free cooking, often reminiscing about the ﬂavours of her childhood alongside inspiring imagery. The blog’s name, ‘cinnamon and vanilla’ in French, is a homage to her upbringing and the familiar aromas of her grandparents’ patisserie. Visit: cannelletvanille.com.

roast beetroot, caramelised onion and goat’s cheese tarts Makes 4 3 heirloom beetroots* (see Shopping list, p 96) or regular beetroots 2 tbs olive oil 1 onion, sliced 2 eggs

1/2

cup (125ml) milk cup (125ml) coconut milk 2 tbs ﬁnely grated parmesan 1 tbs cornstarch 60g goat’s cheese, crumbled

1/2

Gluten-free pastry cup (100g) superﬁne brown rice ﬂour* (see Shopping list, p 96) 1/3 cup (55g) quinoa ﬂour* (see Shopping list, p 96) 1/3 cup (55g) almond meal 2 tbs each potato starch and arrowroot* (see Shopping list, p 96) 110g chilled unsalted butter, chopped 1/2

Preheat the oven to 200°C. Wrap each beetroot in a piece of foil, place on a baking tray and bake for 45 minutes or until tender. Set aside to cool, then, when cool enough to handle, peel and slice into thin wedges. Meanwhile, heat oil in a frypan over medium heat. Cook the onion with 1/2 tsp salt for 8 minutes or until onion is tender and caramelised. Set aside. For the pastry, whiz the brown rice ﬂour, quinoa ﬂour, almond meal, potato starch, arrowroot, 1/2 tsp salt and 1/4 tsp pepper in a food processor until combined. Add the butter, and pulse until ﬁnely chopped. Add 2 tbs cold water and pulse until dough comes together. Shape into a disk, enclose in plastic wrap and chill for 30 minutes to ﬁrm up. Roll out pastry between 2 sheets of baking paper until 4mm thick. Transfer to a baking tray and return to the fridge for 15 minutes. Reduce the oven to 190°C. Grease four 12cm loose-bottomed tart pans and line with pastry. Prick pastry bases with a fork, then line with baking paper and ﬁll with pastry weights. Bake for 15 minutes, then remove the paper and weights, and return to the oven for a further 5 minutes or until golden.

The First Mess’ vegan banana bread granola bars by Laura Wright (left). Bottom (from left): Aran Goyoaga of Cannelle et Vanille and her roast beetroot, caramelised onion and goat’s cheese tarts.

Scatter the onion and beetroot over the tart shells. Whisk the eggs, milk, coconut milk, parmesan and cornstarch together in a bowl. Pour into the tart shells, and top with goat’s cheese. Bake for 25 minutes or until golden and set.

PETITE KITCHEN It all started when Eleanor Ozich’s four-year old daughter Izabella developed a serious health condition, and as remedy, the New Zealand family cut out all gluten, sugar and preservatives from their diet, swapping them for simple, unprocessed foods. Petite Kitchen documents Eleanor’s journey back to basics through beautiful photography and her healthy and experimental recipes that are mostly grain-free. Her ﬁrst book, My Petite Kitchen Cookbook (Murdoch books, $39.99) has just been released. Visit: petite-kitchen.com.

cheddar & quinoa muffins with sundried tomatoes and basil Makes 8 3/4 cup (150g) quinoa, rinsed, drained 11/2 cups (375ml) vegetable stock 4 eggs, lightly beaten 1 cup (120g) grated cheddar cheese 1 cup basil leaves, roughly chopped 1/4 cup (40g) ﬁnely chopped sundried tomatoes

Preheat the oven to 180°C. Grease 8 holes of a mufﬁn pan. Place the quinoa in a saucepan with stock and bring to the boil over high heat. Reduce heat to low, cover, and simmer for 12-15 minutes until liquid is absorbed. Fluff up quinoa with a fork and set aside for 10 minutes to cool. Transfer quinoa to a bowl with the remaining ingredients. Season and mix well to combine.

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Divide the mixture among mufﬁn holes and bake for 25 minutes or until a skewer inserted into the centre of a mufﬁn comes out clean. Transfer to a wire rack to cool.

MY DARLING LEMON THYME Perth-based New Zealander Emma Galloway discovered that her family suffered from gluten and lactose intolerances. With her chef background, she became committed to creating vegetarian, gluten-free dishes for her family using fresh, seasonal ﬂavours that she shares with the world through her blog. “This ﬂourless cake is light and almost mousse-like at room temperature, but chill it in the fridge if you like it dense and fudgy.” Her debut book, My Darling Lemon Thyme: Recipes From My Real Food Kitchen (Harper Collins, $39.99) has just been released. Visit: mydarlinglemonthyme.com.

Beat yolks and 1/4 cup (55g) caster sugar with electric beaters for 4 minutes or until thick and pale. Fold in cocoa, cardamom and chocolate mixture. In a clean bowl, beat eggwhites with electric beaters until stiff peaks form. Gradually beat in remaining 1/4 cup (55g) caster sugar until thick and glossy. Fold one-third of the eggwhite mixture into the chocolate mixture to loosen, then fold through remaining eggwhite until just combined. Transfer batter to the cake pan and bake for 35 minutes or until puffed with a slight wobble in the centre. Remove from oven and set aside for 10 minutes, allowing the cake to deﬂate slightly as it cools. Release the side of the pan and set aside to cool completely. Serve at room temperature or chill for 2 hours for a fudge-like consistency. Serve topped with cream, strawberries and dusted with icing sugar. d.

ﬂourless chocolate & cardamom cake Serves 10-12 Store in an airtight container in the fridge for up to 5 days. 250g dark chocolate, roughly chopped 125g unsalted butter, chopped 1/4 cup (60ml) espresso, cooled, or orange juice 4 large eggs, separated 1/2 cup (110g) caster sugar 2 tbs cocoa powder, sifted 1/2 tsp ground cardamom Whipped cream, halved strawberries and icing sugar, to serve Preheat the oven to 180°C. Grease and line the base and side of a 21cm springform cake pan. Place the chocolate, butter and coffee in a heatproof bowl set over a saucepan of simmering water (don’t let the bowl touch the water), stirring, until smooth. Set aside to cool.

THE HEALTH FOOD SHOP Nut butter, try cooking with macadamia or ABC (almond, brazil nut and cashew). Brown rice syrup, or rice malt, a sweetener derived from cooked brown rice. Extra virgin coconut oil, available in jars. Can solidify at colder temperatures. Dairy-free chocolate chips, have no milk solids, usually made using pure cocoa butter. Brown rice ﬂour, quinoa ﬂour, potato starch and arrowroot, gluten-free alternatives to wheat ﬂour. THE GREENGROCER Heirloom beetroot, available in a variety of colours, from yellow to pink and striped.

CHEDDAR & QUINOA MUFFINS WITH SUNDRIED TOMATOES AND BASIL RECIPE AND IMAGE FROM MY PETITE KITCHEN COOKBOOK BY ELEANOR OZICH (MURDOCH BOOKS 2013, $39.99). FLOURLESS CHOCOLATE & CARDAMOM CAKE ADAPTED AND REPRODUCED WITH PERMISSION FROM MY DARLING LEMON THYME: RECIPES FROM MY REAL FOOD KITCHEN BY EMMA GALLOWAY (HARPER COLLINS 2014, $39.99).

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Clockwise (from top left): cheddar & quinoa mufﬁns with sundried tomatoes and basil; Eleanor Ozich of Petite Kitchen; ﬂourless chocolate & cardamom cake; Emma Galloway of My Darling Lemon Thyme.

delicious. WOOLWORTHS ADVERTISING FEATURE

Easter brilliance Killer Mexican barbecued corn Serves 4 4 corn cobs, husks removed 30ml olive oil Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper 30g parmesan, finely grated Sweet smoked paprika, to sprinkle 1 lime, cut into wedges Place the corn cobs in a large pan of salted water and bring to the boil. Simmer gently for about 15 minutes or until cooked through. Drain in a colander and allow to steam dry. Preheat a barbecue or chargrill pan to high and brush the corn with a little oil and season with salt and pepper. Cook corn, turning the cobs, until lightly toasted all over. Meanwhile, spread the grated cheese out on a tray or plate. Sprinkle the grilled corn with paprika, then roll in the cheese. Serve with lime wedges to squeeze over.

“Down-to-earth sides are an easy way to put a fresh contemporary spin on traditional Easter fare. Try this recipe with juicy sweet corn from Woolworths.”

Take a fresh approach this Easter Delicious, down-to-earth sides, like this killer Mexican barbecued corn, are an easy way to put a fresh spin on traditional Easter fare. Whether you’re planning on entertaining a crowd or simply creating a chocolate egg hunt for the kids, Woolworths has all the inspiration you need to make this Easter special. For more Easter inspiration, visit: woolworths.com.au/easter

NEWS LIFE MEDIA CREATIVE SERVICES. IMAGE AND RECIPE: © 2013, JAMIE OLIVER ENTERPRISES LIMITED (JAMIEOLIVER.COM). PHOTOGRAPHY: DAVID LOFTUS.

Easter entertaining is made easy with Jamie Oliver’s fast, fun and fresh side dishes that are sure to please a crowd.

JAMIE’S AUTUMN MENU MAKEOVER, PLUS BRILLIANT TARTS AND DESSERTS

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WINE-BRAISED CHICKEN WITH ROASTED GRAPES

Serves 4 • Olive oil • 1.5kg whole chicken, jointed into 8 pieces • 4 onions, cut into wedges • 4 carrots, chopped • 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped • ½ bunch of rosemary, leaves picked and chopped • 1 heaped tbs plain flour • 300ml white wine • 200ml chicken stock • 600g potatoes, peeled, roughly chopped • 2 handfuls red and green grapes • Chopped flat-leaf parsley leaves, to serve 1 Preheat the oven to 190°C. Heat

a glug of oil in a large saucepan over medium heat. Season the chicken

and cook, in batches, until golden all over. Transfer to a plate and set aside. 2 Add the onion, carrot and garlic to the pan and gently cook over medium-low heat for 15 minutes or until soft and sticky but not coloured. 3 Return the chicken to the pan along with the rosemary and flour. Increase the heat to medium–high and leave to colour for a few minutes. 4 Pour in the wine and bring to the boil, then reduce heat to a simmer and let it reduce by half. Add the stock and potatoes, and bring it back to the boil. 5 Transfer everything to a roasting pan and place in the oven for 30 minutes or until the potatoes are tender and the chicken is falling off the bone. 6 Place the grapes in a separate roasting pan, drizzle with a little oil and roast for 20 minutes or until blistered and caramelised. 7 Add the grapes to the chicken and gently stir to combine. Scatter over the parsley to serve.

Styling Georgina Hayden Photography David Loftus

ere we are in May, on the cusp of the cooler weather really setting in, when we're beginning to choose warming, soul-affirming comfort food. But with fresh autmnal produce still at our fingertips, I've put together a selection of recipes that make me feel nice and cosy but still celebrate late-season veg – adding lightness as well as crunch and colour. In a nod to my early Naked Chef days, we have wonderful pork packed with an apricot stuffing and wrapped in prosciutto, which I love to serve on properly-done polenta. There’s tender chicken in wine that’s all about deep flavour, livened up with the classic French combo of fine herbs and grapes. Enjoy it with fresh bread to mop up those lovely roasting juices. If you like a bit of spice, I’ve also done a cracking warm chilli squid salad with fennel and pancetta – a killer combo, plus a gorgeous roasted cauliflower curry with knock-your-socks-off flavour. All of these dishes I love, and make for the family a lot of the time. They’re easy to throw together and total crowdpleasers. I hope you enjoy them as much as I do.

Recipes Jamie Oliver

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Jamie shares some of his favourite things to eat right now – tasty dishes for the change of season.

WINE-BRAISED CHICKEN WITH ROASTED GRAPES

FRIED CHICKEN LIVERS WITH PICKLED CABBAGE

FRIED CHICKEN LIVERS WITH PICKLED CABBAGE

Crumbing and frying livers gives them an extra dimension of texture. Just be careful not to fry them for too long – you want that lovely pink rosiness in the middle. Serves 6–8 as a starter • 400g chicken livers, trimmed of sinew and halved • Olive oil • 100g plain flour • 2 eggs, lightly beaten • 2 cups (140g) fresh breadcrumbs • Splash of milk • Cube of bread (to test the oil) • Lemon wedges, to serve Pickled cabbage • ½ large red cabbage, finely shredded • ⅓ cup (80ml) sherry vinegar • ¼ cup chopped tarragon

CAULIFLOWER TIKKA MASALA

1 Place the livers in a bowl and cover

with cold water. Leave to one side while you crack on with the rest. 2 For the pickled cabbage, place the cabbage and vinegar in a bowl, season well and scrunch everything together with your hands to work in the flavours. Stir through the tarragon and set aside. 3 Pour enough olive oil into a large saucepan to cover the base by about 2cm. Place it over medium heat and let the oil get hot. 4 Set up three bowls – place the flour in one, the beaten egg in another and the breadcrumbs in the third. Season the flour with salt and pepper and whisk a splash of milk into the eggs. 5 Drain the livers, then dip each one into the flour, shaking off any excess, then dip in the egg, letting any extra drip off, then coat in the breadcrumbs. 6 Drop the cube of bread into the hot oil. When it turns golden in 20 seconds, the oil is ready. Fry the livers for 1½–2½ minutes until golden and cooked to your liking. Drain on paper towel. 7 Serve the livers with the pickled cabbage and lemon wedges on the side to squeeze over.

CAULIFLOWER TIKKA MASALA

Serves 4 • 1 tsp cumin seeds • 1 tsp coriander seeds • 3 long red chillies • 2 garlic cloves, peeled • 2 tsp garam masala • 1 tbs sweet smoked paprika (pimenton) • 8cm piece ginger • Bunch coriander • 75g flaked almonds • 2 tbs tomato paste • Sunflower oil • 2 onions, thinly sliced • 400ml can low-fat coconut milk • 400g can chopped tomatoes • 1 large head cauliflower • Cooked basmati rice, to serve 1 Preheat the oven to 180°C. Toast the

cumin and coriander seeds in a small, dry frypan until aromatic, then pop them in a food processor.

2 Add 2 chillies to the food processor,

along with the garlic, garam masala, paprika, half the ginger and most of the coriander and almonds (saving some to serve), then whiz to a smooth paste. Add the tomato paste, season well and pulse to combine. 3 Thinly slice the remaining ginger and chilli. Place a flameproof casserole over medium heat and add a glug of oil. Add the sliced ginger, chilli and onion. Cook for 10 minutes or until the onion is soft and sticky but not coloured. Spoon in the spice paste, reduce the heat to medium-low and fry for 10 minutes. 5 Pour in the coconut milk and chopped tomatoes with 600ml water. Bring to the boil, then reduce to a simmer. 6 Pop the whole cauliflower in the dish, drizzle with oil, then transfer the casserole, lid off, to the oven. Roast for 1 hour or until the cauliflower is cooked through and golden. 7 Toast the leftover almonds in a dry frypan and chop the remaining coriander. Serve the roasted cauliflower on a bed of rice, with the toasted almonds and coriander sprinkled over.

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PORK WITH PROSCIUTTO & APRICOTS

Serves 6 • ⅓ cup (70g) dried apricots • 100ml riesling or other white wine • Olive oil • ½ bunch sage • 4 eschalots , finely chopped • ½ cup (35g) breadcrumbs • 18 prosciutto slices • 1.2kg pork tenderloin, trimmed • 2-3 rosemary sprigs • 300ml red wine • Cooked polenta, to serve 1 Preheat the oven to 190°C. Pop the

CHILLI CONCERTINA SQUID WITH FENNEL

CHILLI CONCERTINA SQUID WITH FENNEL

This warm salad of crispy squid, salty pancetta and zingy lemon and fennel is a winning combo that packs a flavour punch. Serves 4 as a starter • 6 whole squid, skin removed, cleaned, tentacles removed but reserved (ask your fishmonger to do this for you) • ½ fennel bulb, fronds reserved • 1½ lemons • Olive oil • 6 pancetta slices, thinly sliced • 1 long red chilli, finely chopped • 2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced • ½ tsp fennel seeds 1 Preheat the oven to 220°C. To

concertina the squid, place a large chef’s knife flat inside the hood, then use a second knife to make several slices across the flesh, about 1cm apart. Having the knife inside will stop you cutting right through. Set aside.

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2 Using a mandoline, thinly slice the fennel bulb and ½ lemon. Toss together in a bowl and set aside. 3 Place an ovenproof frypan over medium–high heat and add a little olive oil. Add the sliced pancetta and fry for 5 minutes or until golden and crisp. 4 Remove the frypan from the heat and stir in the chilli and garlic. Squeeze in the juice of the remaining 1 lemon. Pour everything into a small bowl, add a few glugs of olive oil and stir to combine. Set aside. 5 Crush the fennel seeds using a mortar and pestle, then set aside. 6 Return the pan to high heat, add a splash of oil and fry the squid tentacles for 1 minute. Add the fennel seeds and the squid and, quickly stir together. 7 Transfer the frypan to the preheated oven. Roast for 3-4 minutes until the squid is cooked through and light golden in colour. 8 Add the squid to the chilli and pancetta dressing, and toss to coat. Transfer to a serving plate and top with the lemon and fennel salad, then scatter over the reserved fennel fronds to serve.

apricots in a small saucepan with the white wine. Bring to the boil, remove from heat and set aside to cool. 2 Heat a glug of oil in a frypan over medium heat. Finely chop half the sage and add it to the pan along with the eschalot. Cook for 10 minutes or until softened. Set aside to cool. 3 Drain the apricots (reserving the liquid) and pop in a food processor. Whiz to form a paste, then add to the eschalot mixture along with the breadcrumbs and reserved apricot liquid. Stir to combine. 4 Lay out the prosciutto, overlapping, so it’s about the same size as the pork, and scatter over half the remaining sage. 5 Using a sharp knife, cut an incision down the side of the pork (being careful not to cut all the way through). Spoon the apricot stuffing into the opening and pop in most of the rosemary (saving some to serve). Wrap up the meat in the prosciutto and tie securely with kitchen string. 6 Heat a glug of oil in a flameproof casserole over medium–high heat, add the pork and fry until golden all over. 7 Pour in the red wine, bring to the boil, then pop the lid on and transfer to the oven. Cook for 45 minutes, removing the lid after 30 minutes or until the pork is cooked and the prosciutto is crisp. 8 Rest the meat, loosely covered with foil, for 10 minutes, then slice and serve with polenta and reserved rosemary and sage, drizzled with the pan juices.

PORK WITH PROSCIUTTO & APRICOTS

Photography Laura Edwards Recipes & styling Charlie Clapp

Crisp pastry bases topped with luscious fillings make for a divine combination – these tarts and desserts are worth letting your halo slip for...

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LATTICED TREACLE & PECAN TART

baking paper and fill with rice or pastry weights, then bake for 15 minutes. Remove the paper and weights and return to the oven for 5 minutes or until crisp and golden. 6 For the filling, heat the golden syrup and ginger in a small saucepan over low heat. Stir in the breadcrumbs, pecan, lemon zest and juice and beaten egg until combined, then pour into the pastry case. 7 Roll out the remaining dough into a 25cm circle, 2mm thick. Slice into 5mm-wide ribbons, then weave them in a lattice pattern over the top of the tart. Brush with egg, and bake for 30–35 minutes until cooked and golden. 8 Remove from the oven and set aside for 15 minutes to cool, then carefully remove it from the pan and slice –this is perfect served warm from the oven.

ULTIMATE CHOCOLATE & RASPBERRY TART

ULTIMATE CHOCOLATE & RASPBERRY TART

LATTICED TREACLE & PECAN TART

Serves 10 • 1⅔ cup (250g) plain flour, plus extra to dust • 2 tbs icing sugar • Finely grated zest of 1 lemon • 175g chilled unsalted butter, chopped • 1 egg, lightly beaten, plus 1 extra egg yolk Treacle filling • 600ml golden syrup • Pinch ground ginger • 150g fresh breadcrumbs • ⅓ cup (45g) pecans, finely ground • Finely grated zest and juice of 1 lemon • 1 egg, lightly beaten 1 To make the pastry, place the flour,

icing sugar and lemon zest in the bowl

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of a food processor with a small pinch of salt. Drop in the butter and pulse until the mixture resembles breadcrumbs. 2 Add the egg yolk and 2 tbs cold water, then pulse again until it comes together into a dough. Turn it out onto a lightly floured surface, and bring it together with your hands. Wrap in plastic wrap and chill in the fridge for 20 minutes. 3 Cut off a third of the pastry for the latticed top, cover with plastic wrap and return to the fridge. Roll out the large piece of pastry on a floured surface into a 30cm circle, about 4mm thick. 4 Drape the pastry over your rolling pin, and lay it across a 23cm fluted tart pan. Push it into place, making sure it goes right into the edges. Roll your rolling pin over the top of the pan to cut off any excess. Pop in the fridge to chill for 30 minutes. 5 Preheat the oven to 190°C. Prick the pastry with a fork, line the pastry with

Serves 10 • 1⅓ cups (200g) plain flour, plus extra to dust • 25g cocoa • 25g icing sugar • 175g chilled unsalted butter, chopped • 1 egg yolk • 1 tsp vanilla extract • 250g punnet raspberries Chocolate filling • 2 cups (500ml) double thick cream • ⅓ cup (75g) caster sugar • 300g dark chocolate, broken into squares • 2 large eggs, beaten

1 To make the pastry, sift the flour, cocoa and icing sugar into a food processor. Add the butter and a pinch of salt, then pulse until the mixture resembles breadcrumbs. 2 Add the egg yolk, vanilla extract and 2 tbs cold water and pulse again, until the dough comes together. Tip out onto a floured surface and bring it together with your hands. Cover in plastic wrap and chill for 20 minutes. 3 Preheat the oven to 200°C. Roll out the pastry on a floured work surface into a 25cm circle, 4mm thick. Using your rolling pin, lift the pastry and

SUPER INDULGENT MIXED BERRY MILLEFEUILLE

SALTED BANOFFEE TRANCHE

drape it over a 23cm loose-bottomed tart pan. Ease it into place, pushing the pastry right into the corners. Roll your rolling pin over the top of the pan to cut off any overhang, and return to the fridge to chill for 20 minutes. 4 Prick the pastry base with a fork, then line the pastry with baking paper and fill with rice or pastry weights. Bake in oven for 15 minutes, then remove the paper and weights and return to oven for 5 minutes or until crisp and golden. Allow to cool. 5 Meanwhile, for the filling, pop the cream and caster sugar in a small saucepan over medium heat and bring to the boil. Place the chocolate pieces in a bowl, pour over the hot cream and stir until the chocolate has melted. Finally, whisk in the beaten eggs. 6 Scatter half the raspberries into the cooled tart case, then pour over the chocolate filling. Return to the oven for 20 minutes or until the filling is almost set but still has a little wobble in the centre. Set aside to cool completely, then ease the tart out of the pan. Top with remaining raspberries to serve.

SUPER INDULGENT MIXED BERRY MILLEFEUILLE Luxuriant cream, crisp pastry, sharp berries – it’s the best flavour combo. Well, it would be rude not to share… Makes 4 stacks • 10 sheets filo pastry • 100g unsalted butter, melted

• ½ cup (75g) pistachio kernels, finely chopped • ⅓ cup (50g) icing sugar • 200g frozen mixed berries • ¼ cup (55g) caster sugar • 1-2 tbs dessert wine (optional) • 1 vanilla bean, split, seeds scraped • 150g mascarpone • 150g natural yoghurt • 150ml double thick cream • Finely grated zest and juice of 1 lemon 1 Preheat the oven to 180°C and line

two baking trays with baking paper. 2 Lay a sheet of filo on a work surface and brush with a little melted butter. Top with a thin layer of pistachio, then a dusting of icing sugar. Lay another sheet of filo on top and repeat with the butter, pistachio and icing sugar. Repeat this two more times, then finish with a sheet of filo and a brush of butter. Transfer the filo stack to a lined baking tray and, using a sharp knife, slice into 6 rectangles. 3 Repeat step 2 with the remaining filo sheets, pistachio and more icing sugar. Transfer onto the second lined baking tray and cut into 6 rectangles. You should now have 12 rectangles. 4 Pop both trays in the oven and bake for 15 minutes or until pastry is golden and puffed. Remove from the oven, sprinkle with more icing sugar while the rectangles are hot, then set aside to cool completely.

5 Meanwhile, combine the mixed berries and caster sugar in a saucepan and place over medium heat. Stir in a splash of dessert wine, if using, and the remaining butter. 6 Add the vanilla pod to the berries, simmer for 5 minutes or until the berries start breaking down, then drain them in a sieve over a saucepan to catch the juices. Set berries aside to cool, and place the juice over medium heat to simmer and thicken to a syrup. 7 In a bowl, whisk together the mascarpone, yoghurt, cream, vanilla seeds, lemon juice and zest, and 25g icing sugar, until light and fluffy. 8 To assemble the millefeuille, place 1 filo rectangle on a plate, top with a few dollops of cream mixture, arrange a layer of the drained fruit on top, then top with another filo rectangle. Repeat with a layer of cream and fruit, then finish with the final layer of filo. Repeat with the remaining filo stacks, cream and berries, making 4 filo stacks. 9 Serve drizzled with the fruit syrup and a dusting of icing sugar.

SALTED BANOFFEE TRANCHE

Banana, salted caramel, chocolate – possibly the ultimate dessert! You'll love this decadent tart. Serves 12 • 150g chocolate digestive biscuits • 200g unsalted butter • ½ cup (125g) brown sugar • 395g can sweetened condensed milk

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PASSIONFRUIT CURD TARTLETS

• • • •

Sea salt flakes 4 ripe bananas, sliced 300ml double thick cream, whipped Dark and white chocolate curls

1 Whiz the biscuits in a food processor until fine, then transfer to a bowl. Melt 75g butter, then stir it into the biscuits until combined. Spoon it into a loosebottomed, rectangular tart pan and firmly press it into the base and up the sides. Chill in the fridge until firm. 2 To make the salted caramel, melt the sugar and remaining 125g butter in a non-stick saucepan over medium heat, stirring constantly, until the sugar has dissolved. Stir in the condensed milk and bring to the boil – allow to bubble for a few minutes until it darkens slightly and thickens. Stir through a good pinch of sea salt flakes, then set aside to cool slightly. Pour into the biscuit case and return to the fridge for

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at least 1 hour until completely cool. 3 When ready to serve, ease the tart out of the pan and place on a serving board. Arrange the sliced bananas on top, dollop with whipped cream and finish with curls of chocolate.

PASSIONFRUIT CURD TARTLETS

Makes 6 • 1⅔ cups (250g) plain flour, plus extra to dust • 2 tsp ground cardamom • Finely grated zest of 1 lime • 175g chilled unsalted butter, chopped • 1 egg yolk Curd filling • 15–18 passionfruits • 2 eggs, plus 2 egg yolks • ⅔ cup (150g) caster sugar • 125g chilled unsalted butter,chopped

1 For the curd, remove all the pulp from the passionfruits and whiz in a food processor, then pass through a sieve to remove all the seeds, set the seeds to one side. 2 Pour the strained pulp into a saucepan with the eggs, egg yolks and sugar. Set it over a medium-low heat and stir until the sugar has dissolved. 3 Add the butter a little at a time, making sure each piece has melted before adding the next, stirring constantly (make sure it doesn’t boil or the eggs will scramble). Keep stirring until the mixture is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon, then take it off the heat and set aside to cool. 4 Pass the curd through a sieve and add 1 tbs of the reserved seeds, if desired, then set aside. 5 Preheat the oven to 180°C. To make the pastry, pop the flour, cardamom and most of the lime zest (saving some to serve) in a food processor. Add the butter, then pulse until the mixture resembles breadcrumbs. 6 Add the egg yolk and 2 tbs cold water, then pulse again until the dough comes together. Turn out onto a lightly floured surface and briefly work it with your hands. Cover with plastic wrap and chill in the fridge for 20 minutes. 7 Divide the pastry into 6 pieces, then roll out each piece into an 18cm circle, 2mm thick. Use these to line 6 x 12cm mini tart pans, pressing them into place. Trim off any excess pastry. 8 Prick the pastry bases, line the pastry with baking paper and fill with rice or pastry weights, then bake in the oven for 10 minutes. Remove paper and weights and return to oven for 5 minutes or until crisp and golden. Set aside to cool for 5 minutes, before turning them out to cool completely. 9 Carefully fill the cases with the passionfruit curd, and leave to set in the fridge for 30 minutes. Sprinkle over the remaining lime zest to serve.

RHUBARB GALETTE WITH VANILLA ICE CREAM

RHUBARB GALETTE

Serves 8 • 1⅔ cups (250g) plain flour, plus extra to dust • 2 tbs icing sugar • 175g chilled unsalted butter, chopped • Finely grated zest of 2 lemons and juice of 1 lemon • 2 egg yolks • 500g rhubarb, cut into 5cm pieces • Finely grated zest and juice of 1 lime • ½ cup (110g) raw sugar • Vanilla ice cream (recipe follows), to serve 1 To make the pastry, place the flour,

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icing sugar and a pinch of fine salt in a food processor. Pulse to combine, then add the butter and zest of 1 lemon, and pulse again until the mixture resembles fine breadcrumbs. Add 1 egg yolk and 2 tbs cold water, then pulse again to form a dough. 2 Turn out the dough onto a lightly floured surface and bring it together gently with your hands. Cover in plastic wrap and chill for 20 minutes. 3 Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 180°C and arrange the rhubarb on a baking paper-lined baking tray. Squeeze over the lemon and lime juice, then sprinkle over the lime zest, remaining lemon zest, and half the raw sugar. 4 Bake in the oven for 15 minutes, until the rhubarb is just cooked but still holds its shape. Remove and leave to cool completely, before transferring to a sieve to drain – you want to remove as much liquid as possible, then set aside. 5 Roll out the pastry into a 40cm circle on a floured surface (don’t worry if it isn’t neat, rough edges give a nice rustic look). Transfer to a baking paper-lined baking tray. 6 Carefully arrange the drained rhubarb in the centre of the pastry circle, leaving a 7cm gap border. 7 Sprinkle over most of the remaining sugar, then carefully fold the edges of the pastry over the filling (it doesn’t have to be too neat, this is a free-form tart). Brush the pastry with the remaining egg yolk and scatter over the last of the raw sugar.

8 Bake the galette in the oven for

25–30 minutes until the pastry is golden and cooked through and the filling is tender and bubbling. Allow to cool for a few minutes, then slice and serve with a scoop of vanilla ice cream.

VANILLA ICE CREAM

Cold and creamy, ice cream is the perfect accompaniment to a slice of hot tart, and homemade is always worth the extra effort. Makes 900ml • 300ml pure (thin) cream • 300ml milk • 1 vanilla bean, split, seeds scraped • 1 tsp vanilla bean paste • 6 large egg yolks • ⅔ cup (150g) caster sugar 1 Combine the cream and milk in a saucepan over medium heat. Add the vanilla pod and seeds to the pan. Bring it to just below boiling point, then turn off the heat and allow to infuse for 30 minutes. 2 Place the vanilla bean paste, egg yolks and sugar in a bowl and whisk to combine. Heat the infused cream mixture back to just below boiling point, then slowly pour it into the egg yolk mixture, whisking constantly, until it forms a custard. 3 Wipe out the pan, pour in the custard and place it over low heat, stirring constantly. When the mixture is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon, take it off the heat. Pass it through a sieve into a bowl (discarding the solids) and set aside to cool. 4 Pour the custard into an ice-cream machine and churn according to the manufacturer’s directions. (Alternatively, pour the mixture into a shallow container and freeze for 2 hours or until frozen at edges. Remove and beat with electric beaters. Return the container to the freezer and repeat 2 or 3 times.) 5 Transfer the ice cream to a container, seal, and store in the freezer until ready to serve.

delicious. WOOLWORTHS ADVERTISING FEATURE

Easter delights Woolworths has teamed up with Jamie Oliver to bring you easy family meals to enjoy throughout the holidays. Asian-style roast chicken salad NEWS LIFE MEDIA CREATIVE SERVICES. IMAGE AND RECIPE: © 2013, JAMIE OLIVER ENTERPRISES LIMITED (JAMIEOLIVER.COM). PHOTOGRAPHY: DAVID LOFTUS.

Serves 4-6 1.5kg Macro Wholefoods Market Free-Range Whole Chicken Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper ½ tsp dried chilli flakes 1 tsp coriander seeds, crushed Olive oil Handful of unsalted peanuts Juice of 2 limes Extra virgin olive oil 1 tsp sesame oil 1 tbs low-salt soy sauce 1 tsp light soft brown sugar 1-2 small red chillies, seeds removed, finely chopped 1 bunch spring onions, trimmed 1 large or 2 small lettuces, softround or cos, washed and spun dry Large bunch each fresh mint and coriander 1 small cucumber Preheat the oven to 180°C. In a roasting tray, sprinkle the chicken with a pinch of salt and pepper, the dried chilli and coriander seeds. Drizzle with olive oil and rub all over the bird. Cook for around 1 hour 15 minutes or until golden and cooked through, basting the chicken every now and then. To check it’s cooked, insert a skewer into the thickest part of the thigh. If the juices run clear, it’s done. Meanwhile, roast the peanuts in the oven for about 15 minutes or until smelling fantastic. Roughly chop and set aside. Once cooked, leave the chicken to rest for 30 minutes. While you wait, squeeze the lime juice into a bowl and top with an equal amount of extra virgin olive oil. Add the sesame oil, soy sauce, sugar and chopped chilli, then mix well. Finely slice the spring onions and roughly chop

the lettuce. Scatter over a large serving platter and pick over the herb leaves. Use a fork to scrape down the length of the cucumber (this will help it to absorb the dressing), then cut in half lengthways and scrape out the seeds. Finely slice and add to the platter.

Shred or pull the meat apart using two forks, and add half of it to the bowl (save the rest for another recipe). Drizzle over the dressing and use your hands to toss everything together until evenly coated. Sprinkle over the toasted peanuts and tuck in.

Create an Easter menu everyone will love This fresh Asian-style roast chicken salad is the perfect alternative to traditional Easter fare that everyone will love. Whether you’re planning on entertaining a crowd or simply creating a chocolate hunt for the kids, Woolworths has all the inspiration you need to make this Easter special. For more Easter inspiration, visit: woolworths.com.au/easter

delicious.

KITCHENAID® ADVERTISING FEATURE

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Dependable, resilient, beautiful – it’s these three qualities that loving mums and the beloved KitchenAid ® brand share in equal measure, making them an obvious match made in heaven. So this Mother’s Day, show mum the ultimate appreciation with a gift from the classic KitchenAid ® Artisan range. ON A ROLL There's nothing quite as satisfying as making things from scratch. Enter the KitchenAid ® Artisan Stand Mixer with Three-Piece Pasta Roller Attachment. The roller kneads dough to perfection, while the fettuccine and spaghetti cutters produce both ﬂat strips and spaghetti noodles. Get the kids involved rolling the dough and cook up some fresh fettuccine with chilli garlic prawns. HELPING HAND This Mother’s Day, celebrate by throwing a decadent dessert into the mix – quite literally – with the help of the KitchenAid® Artisan 9-Speed Hand Mixer. An electronic sensor adjusts the level of resistance while kneading, whipping, blending and combining for smooth, consistent results. Use it to whip up a chocolate self-saucing pudding, or the cream for an elegant sponge cake. THE PERFECT BLEND Give the gift that keeps on giving with the KitchenAid ® Artisan Blender. Begin Mum’s special day with ﬂuffy buttermilk cinnamon pancakes and tangy berry coulis, or a refreshing berry smoothie. Powerful enough to puree or liquefy, it’s the food preparation tool that removes all the hard work from the prep process. PROCESS-DRIVEN Versatile enough to use each and every day, the KitchenAid® Artisan ExactSlice™ Food Processor really makes its mark on Mother’s Day, when Dad uses it to make the crumbs and salsa for Mum's favourite breadcrumb and parmesan schnitzels with a vibrant salsa verde.

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30-DAY FREE TRIAL* when you subscribe to the digital edition of the magazine Download a single issue for $5.49 or subscribe for one year for just $49.99. iPad is a trademark of Apple Inc, registered in the U.S. and other countries. App Store is a service mark of Apple Inc. * Paid subscription commences at conclusion of free trial period.

RECIPES VALLI LITTLE & SARAH MURPHY PHOTOGRAPHY JEREMY SIMONS STYLING DAVID MORGAN

From classic walnut slice just like Grandma used to make to double chocolate decadence, these recipes are ideal for autumn baking.

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< lemon & coconut slice Makes 12 slices 250g milk arrowroot biscuits 125g unsalted butter, melted, plus extra 1 tbs softened unsalted butter 1/2 cup (150g) sweetened condensed milk

1 cup (90g) desiccated coconut Finely grated zest and juice of 1 lemon 2 cups (300g) pure icing sugar, sifted Toasted coconut ﬂakes, to sprinkle

Grease and line a 20cm square pan with baking paper, leaving plenty overhanging the sides. Place biscuits in a food processor and whiz to ﬁne crumbs. Add melted butter, condensed milk, desiccated coconut and lemon zest, then whiz until well combined. Press the mixture into the prepared pan and chill for 2 hours or until ﬁrm. For the icing, combine icing sugar, lemon juice and remaining 1 tbs softened butter in a bowl, stirring until smooth. Spread icing over slice and sprinkle with toasted ﬂaked coconut. Allow to set for 1 hour, then slice into 12 rectangles.

berries & cream jelly slice > Makes 12 slices Store slice in the refrigerator for up to 1 week. 250g plain sweet biscuits (we used morning coffee biscuits) 200g unsalted butter, melted Juice of 2 lemons

395g can sweetened condensed milk 2 titanium-strength gelatine leaves* 85g raspberry jelly crystals

Grease and line the base and sides of a 20cm x 30cm lamington pan with baking paper, leaving plenty overhanging the sides. Whiz biscuits in a food processor to ﬁne crumbs. Transfer to a bowl and combine with melted butter, then press mixture into the base of prepared pan. Chill for 30 minutes or until ﬁrm. Combine lemon juice and condensed milk in a saucepan with 3/4 cup (185ml) water over medium heat. Cook for 5 minutes or until warmed through. Soak the gelatine leaves in cold water for 5 minutes to soften. Squeeze excess water from the gelatine, then stir into the condensed milk mixture until melted and combined. Pour over biscuit base and return to the refrigerator for 2 hours or until set. Prepare jelly according to packet instructions. Allow to cool slightly, then pour over milk ﬁlling. Chill for 3-4 hours until set. Carefully remove slice from pan, then slice to serve.

* Gelatine leaves are from gourmet food shops and delis. 120 delicious.

easy does it.

< double chocolate slice Makes 16 slices 1/3

1/3 cup (80ml) milk cup (35g) cocoa 250g softened unsalted butter 1/3 cup (110g) apricot jam 1 cup (220g) caster sugar 150g dark chocolate, 4 eggs chopped 13/4 cups (260g) self-raising 21/3 cups (350g) icing sugar ﬂour Melted white chocolate, 2 tsp baking powder to drizzle

Preheat oven to 180°C. Grease and line a 30cm x 20cm lamington pan with baking paper. Combine cocoa with 1/3 cup (80ml) hot water and stir until smooth. Set aside to cool slightly. Beat butter and caster sugar with electric beaters until thick and pale. Add eggs, 1 at a time, beating well after each addition. Fold in ﬂour, baking powder, milk and cooled cocoa mixture until well combined. Spoon into pan and bake for 35 minutes or until a skewer inserted into the centre comes out clean. Cool slightly, then remove from pan and cool completely. Melt jam in a saucepan over low heat. Add dark chocolate and 1/4 cup (60ml) hot water, stirring until melted. Remove from heat. Add icing sugar and whisk until smooth. Spread icing over slice and allow to set, then drizzle with white chocolate.

caramel walnut slice > Makes 12 slices 125g softened unsalted butter 2 tbs pure icing sugar, sifted 1 cup (150g) self-raising ﬂour, sifted, plus 2 tbs extra 2 eggs

11/4 ﬁrmly packed cup (310g) brown sugar 2 cups (200g) walnuts, toasted 1 cup (90g) desiccated coconut 2 tbs honey Cocoa, to dust

Preheat oven to 180°C. Line the base and sides of a 20cm square pan with baking paper, leaving plenty overhanging the sides. Whiz butter, icing sugar and 1 cup (150g) ﬂour in a food processor until a soft dough forms. Press dough into the base of the pan, then bake for 15-20 minutes until light golden. Meanwhile, beat eggs and brown sugar for 3 minutes or until thick and pale. Roughly chop half the walnuts and add to egg mixture with coconut, 1/4 tsp salt and remaining 2 tbs ﬂour. Stir to combine. Spread mixture over pastry, then return to oven and bake for 35-40 minutes until light golden and top is set. Meanwhile, melt honey in a small frypan over medium heat. Bring to a simmer, then add remaining 1 cup (100g) walnuts. Cook, stirring, for 2 minutes or until caramelised. Transfer to a baking paper-lined baking tray to set, then break into shards. Serve slice topped with caramelised walnut and cocoa. d.

balancing act.

Back to basics This month we put gluten under the spotlight, exploring intolerances and gluten-free alternatives you can use at home, including a clever pizza recipe with a cauliﬂower base. Is going gluten-free better for you?

It’s an easy mistake to make, but a gluten-free label doesn’t necessarily bestow a cachet of health onto whatever food it graces. In fact, many gluten-free alternatives for foods that usually contain wheat – things like pastries, crackers, breads and snack bars – are made with added fats, sugars and a laundry list of highly processed ingredients designed to mimic the texture and properties of gluten. So, going gluten-free in the What is gluten? name of health isn’t a free ticket to go nuts on gluten-free potato Gluten – from the latin for ‘glue’ – is the protein component of chips and triple-choc brownies. wheat and wheat-related grains including barley, rye and spelt. You don’t actually need to buy specialty It’s what gives elasticity to dough, products to go gluten-free. Your best bet for helping it to rise and keep its shape, both your health and your wallet is to focus and contributes to the ‘chew’ of the on naturally gluten-free wholefoods such as ﬁnished loaf. Bread ﬂours are generally vegetables, fruits, dairy, eggs, unprocessed higher in gluten than pastry ﬂours, and meats, seafood, legumes, gluten-free the traditional kneading process is  Gluten is a protein found in wholegrains and grain-like seeds such as what promotes the formation of gluten grains such as rye, spelt, wheat, quinoa, millet, amaranth and corn (see full strands in the dough. Gluten is a barley, burghul and semolina. list, below). Avoiding processed foods also source of protein from both naturally It’s what gives bread its ‘chew’ negates the need to be on the lookout for high-gluten foods and when used and helps dough to rise. tricky items that might contain gluten as an additive in foods otherwise low  You don’t need specialty unexpectedly – such as soy sauce (opt for in protein, such as vegetarian products. products to go gluten-free tamari instead), processed lunch meats, – focus on naturally gluten-free ice creams and store-bought salad foods such as fruits, vegetables, Various shades of intolerance dressings and relishes – where gluten dairy, eggs, meat, seafood and Often a sensitivity or intolerance to is used as a stabilising agent. gluten-free grains such as rice, gluten may be confused with coeliac buckwheat, quinoa and corn. disease, but they aren’t the same.  Gluten-free ﬂours can’t be ‘Gluten sensitivity’ describes a Gluten-free alternatives substituted 1:1 for regular ﬂour. spectrum of disorders of which coeliac There are plenty of gluten-free grains  ’Gluten sensitivity’ describes a disease – an autoimmune allergic and ﬂour alternatives that are worthwhile spectrum of disorders, coeliac reaction to gluten – is the most including in your diet, even if you’re not disease being the most extreme. extreme. For coeliac sufferers, even the avoiding gluten. All kinds of rice, corn smallest amount of gluten can damage (including polenta), buckwheat, amaranth, the gut lining and may potentially quinoa, millet, sorghum, potato starch, contribute to the development of other arrowroot and nut meals (including diseases, warranting absolute avoidance. For those at the almond, chestnut, hazelnut and coconut ﬂours) are naturally lesser end of the sensitivity spectrum, it may be helpful to gluten-free. For the adventurous, look for fava bean ﬂour or trial a gluten-free diet, then reintroduce small amounts chickpea ﬂour (besan) from Indian grocers, and seek out tapioca, of gluten-containing foods as tolerated. Common grains sweet potato ﬂour and yam noodles from Asian grocers. containing gluten include wheat, barley, burghul, semolina, Gluten-free ﬂours can’t simply be substituted 1:1 for their rye, spelt, kamut, triticale (a rye-wheat hybrid), farro and standard counterparts without some tweaks and adjustments, oats (which are naturally gluten-free but often contain trace but there are countless gluten-free recipe resources available amounts because of the way they’re manufactured). to help (see p 92 for our round-up of gluten-free blog recipes).

WORDS KATE SKINNER RECIPE SHANNON HARLEY PHOTOGRAPHY BRETT STEVENS STYLING BERNI SMITHIES

GOING GLUTEN-FREE is more popular than ever, with or without a medical diagnosis of sensitivity to gluten. Google searches for ‘gluten’ have been trending, while gluten-free options are now a staple on restaurant menus (ever wondered what ‘gf’ next to the name of a dish stood for?). There are even gluten-free dating sites for those on the lookout for lovin’.

cauliﬂower-crust pizza with ricotta, prosciutto and mint pesto Makes 4 individual pizzas 1 small cauliﬂower, cut into ﬂorets 11/4 cups (150g) almond meal 3/4 cup (60g) ﬁnely grated parmesan 2 eggs, lightly beaten 2 zucchinis, thinly sliced into ribbons 1 cup (240g) ricotta, crumbled 4 thin slices prosciutto, torn into strips Mint pesto (makes 3/4 cup) 1 bunch mint, plus extra leaves to serve 1/2 bunch ﬂat-leaf parsley 1 garlic clove, chopped 1/4 preserved lemon, ﬂesh and white pith discarded, rind chopped Juice of 1 lemon 1/4 cup (25g) almond meal 1/2 cup (125ml) extra virgin olive oil Preheat 2 baking trays in a 200°C oven. Whiz cauliﬂower in a food processor until

it resembles couscous. Combine 4 cups cauliﬂower in a bowl with the almond meal, parmesan and eggs, then season. Place 2 sheets of baking paper on the bench and, using one-quarter of the cauliﬂower mixture for each pizza, place 2 mounds on each piece of paper, shaping into 5mm-thick (16cm diameter) pizza bases. Carefully transfer the pizza bases to the preheated trays, then bake for 20 minutes or until dark golden and ﬁrm. Meanwhile, toss zucchini with 1 tbs salt. Set aside for 20 minutes. Rinse then drain. For the mint pesto, whiz herbs in a food processor until ﬁnely chopped. Add the garlic, preserved lemon, lemon juice and almond meal, then whiz to combine. With the motor running, add the oil in a steady stream until smooth. Season with pepper. Divide ricotta, zucchini and prosciutto among the pizza bases, then return to the oven for 5 minutes or until heated through. Drizzle the mint pesto over the pizzas and garnish with mint leaves to serve. d.

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• Cambodian flavours • Chef’s guide to Victoria’s Bellarine Peninsula • 24 hours in California

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LAND OF PLENTY Lara Dunston ventures beyond Cambodia’s tourist hotspots of Angkor Wat and Siem Reap to Battambang, the country’s ‘rice bowl’ where the busy streets are lined with hawkers and eateries offering plenty of choices from sunrise until after dark.

global flavours.

Clockwise (from far left): boys ride home from school; handmade noodles at Lan Chov Khorko Miteanh; ﬁsh amok at Antique House; a family work their rice ﬁelds; monks wait for lunch in the leafy grounds of a pagoda; legendary Australian chef David Thompson, adviser to new restaurant Jaan Bai.

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global flavours.

From my ﬁrst glimpse of Cambodia’s gritty riverside city of Battambang I was enchanted. After an interminable bus ride from sprawling Bangkok with its gleaming skyscrapers and gridlocked traffic, sleepy Battambang’s mural-clad pagodas, glittering gold chedi (temples) and Chinese shophouses charmed the pants off me. Home to some of Cambodia’s best-preserved French colonial architecture, the compact old quarter quickly lured me out for a late afternoon stroll to see the sun cast its golden light on the pretty buildings, their paint peeling, balconies crumbling and shutters hanging from hinges. In the riverside parks at sunset, mandarin-robed monks strolled beneath umbrellas, old men in berets played Chinese checkers and local women did aerobics and danced the Madison. But it was the food stalls that dotted the riverside selling hot corn on the cob, steamed buns and sweet coconuts that captivated me. Known as Cambodia’s ‘rice bowl’, the agriculturally rich area of Battambang is renowned for producing the country’s ﬁnest produce. Locals boast that the area reaps the best rice, juiciest oranges, richest coconuts and sweetest bananas and pineapples. The wet season sees much of the farmland submerged beneath monsoonal rainwater. But after harvest at the start of the dry season, attention turns to the fertile riverbanks not long ago under water, where farmers plant countless sorts of greens and vegetables used in the samlors (soups and light stews) loved by locals for their sour, pungent and bitter ﬂavours. While the seedlings are growing, ﬁshermen take to the coffee-coloured Sanker River to cast nets to catch freshwater ﬁsh swimming from the massive Tonle Sap Lake – Southeast Asia’s largest – along with river prawns, crabs, eels and sea snakes, which will be smoked on the riverbank and stored for the next monsoon. Stroll Phsar Nath, the old market in the historic centre, or Phsar Boeung Chhoeuk and you’ll see vendors selling Battambang’s beautiful produce – mountains of pineapples and coconuts, colourful mats covered with vegetables, ﬁsh ﬂapping in buckets of water and baskets ﬁlled to the brim with vibrant chillies, red onions and fragrant local favourites: lemongrass, kaffir lime, galangal, turmeric and ginger.

or by a wedding party that starts around 4.30am with the lyrical tinkling of a Cambodian xylophone followed by a beautiful blues-style of folk ﬁlled with sorrow that sounds more suitable for a funeral. Still, it’s more pleasing than the mid-morning disco sounds that will later welcome guests. Thankfully, dawn is the best time to depart for a tuk tuk ride. Early mornings are when the country roads and village lanes of Battambang come alive. Farmers set out on ox-carts for the rice ﬁelds and ﬁshermen for the riverbanks. Vendors set up their roadside stands, while locals slurp breakfast soups at ramshackle stalls. Kids ride bicycles to distant schools, grown-ups whiz into Battambang on beaten-up old motorbikes. Everyone is generous with waves and smiles so prepare to be greeted with constant shouts of “hello!”.

MEETING THE PRODUCERS In Battambang’s surrounding villages, artisan producers still make things by hand as generations of their ancestors have always done. Most hotels can arrange a tuk tuk driver, however, nobody knows Battambang province like English-speaking Mr Ol, booked through Bambu Hotel (see Where to Stay, p 132). Mr Ol has driven my husband and I down every country lane, village track and riverside trail that seemed far too narrow to trundle along, spontaneously stopping off to chat to everyone from a family barbecuing rice-ﬁeld rats to women harvesting a garlicky green called snoar. Mr Kim Nou, the hospitable owner of boutique hotel Maisons Wat Kor (see Where to Stay, p 132) organises an excellent tuk tuk tour, stopping at a variety of traditional cottage industries run from family homes and humble workshops. During one long day we visit families producing incense from the wood of the kapok tree; clay stoves, made from recycled metals and mud, baked in a kiln; and rice noodles, produced by a complicated process starting with the grinding of rice into powder, continuing with heavy duty mixing and kneading, and the extrusion of noodles by the only machine on site, before ﬁnishing with the boiling and cooling of the noodles, ready to be collected by vendors. At a village well-regarded for its rice paper, we met a rosy-cheeked woman who makes 1,200 pieces a day with the help of her daughter, which she then sells for just over $1 for 100. At another village, Mr Mao, who has been making rice

You have no choice but to begin your day in the darkness in Battambang. Without earplugs, expect to be woken well before dawn by the melodic hum of monks chanting at the pagodas 128 delicious.

WORDS LARA DUNSTON

OFF TO A GOOD START

PHOTOGRAPHY TERENCE CARTER

“Early mornings are when the country roads and village lanes of Battambang come alive.”

wine for over 20 years showed us the tray of heady spices, including star anise, chilli and garlic that he ferments with rice and yeast to produce the potent spirit he sells for $1 a litre. A dollar is also the going rate for the specialty of Samrongkung village, kralan, a sweet snack of sticky rice, fresh grated coconut, sugar and black eyed peas stuffed into pieces of bamboo and grilled over an open ﬁre.

STREET FOOD Mornings may be the best time for experiencing Battambang’s villages and countryside, but evenings are when you need to get a taste of the city centre. If you don’t see plumes of smoke rising in the darkness from Phsar Nath market soon after dusk, let your nose guide you to the pans of simmering soups and stews, and salted ﬁsh and meats barbecuing over smouldering coals. The road that skirts the perimeter of the market is the site of Battambang’s only traffic jam. Each day, for a few hours after sunset, locals ﬂock there on motorbikes, bicycles, tuk tuks and cars to purchase the pre-cooked dishes that are the city’s favourite form of take-away. The best vendors are the busiest, including a very focused woman called Roth who has run her stall here for a decade, specialising in homemade samlors (soups), including samlor

machou, a tangy soup made with green papaya, spicy basil and smoked ﬁsh; samlor machou youn, sweet and sour soup with pineapple, tomato, watermelon, and tamarind; sgnor, a clear chicken broth fragrant with lemongrass and kaffir lime; and samlor trayong chek, made with banana blossom and tamarind. Her other specialties are char kroeung, a dry curry-like dish made with chicken, duck or catﬁsh and prahok chamhuy, steamed prahok (fermented ﬁsh paste), with pork and eggs. The adjoining stall specialises in all things grilled – frogs, ﬁsh cakes, chicken wings, pork ribs, quails, sweet Cambodian sausages and whole chickens – glistening from a marinade of kroeung, oil and red chilli. Large grey goby ﬁsh and smaller catﬁsh, both caught from the river, are blanketed in salt and continually turned on the barbecue. Only for the culinary adventurous is khnob, barbecued prahok (fermented ﬁsh paste) with mushroom and tamarind wrapped in banana leaf. Nearby, petite Mao Vanna, who for 20 years has been selling only three specialties from her small stools, serves up trays topped with amok trey, a mousse-like ﬁsh curry steamed in banana leaf that is Cambodia’s national dish; char kdao, a kroeung-based duck dish with hot basil; and char kgney, a light chicken and ginger stir-fry.

“The best vendors are the busiest, including a focused woman called Roth who specialises in home-cooked soups known as samlors.”

130 delicious.

global flavours.

Clockwise (from far left): smoke from an evening takeaway stall outside Phsar Nath; spices used to make rice wine; an incense maker; a family pull up on their bike to buy dinner from a hawker; son vac, ﬁsh paste grilled in banana leaves; a mural of legendary Cambodian singers who died during the Pol Pot regime; nom krourk, fried rice and coconut cake.

global flavours.

AUTHENTIC FLAVOURS

Late one afternoon, in high heels and a ﬂoppy hat, Phary, the owner of Battambang Resort (see Where to Stay) took us on a You’ll be hard pressed to ﬁnd authentic dishes that don’t include fermented ﬁsh paste or the chilli marinade kroeung. snack tour that she offers to guests along a dusty riverside road They’re acquired tastes for foreign palates, especially the dotted with stalls and rustic eateries. We began at a wooden stall fermented ﬁsh paste, prahok, that locals liken to smelly French where owner Sal makes nom krourk, fried rice and coconut cakes, cheese. Eaten as a paste with minced pork to create tasty dips in a mould over a charcoal ﬁre, which she serves with a syrup and diluted for soup and curry of palm sugar and ﬁsh sauce. At a dishes, prahok offends most Western bamboo shack precariously perched palates, which is why tourist over the river, we ate son vac, ﬁsh restaurants tend to leave it out, paste grilled in banana leaves, which WHERE TO STAY ensuring you rarely get to try we wrapped in lettuce with basil, cold You’ll ﬁnd the best hotels near the Cambodian cuisine as it’s intended noodles, saw-tooth coriander and riverbank and in tranquil villages to taste. Much more palatable to a tangy sauce. We followed it with just a ten-minute tuk tuk ride to the Westerners is kroeung, a herbal pong tia koun or boiled baby duck centre. Not far from the river, Bambu paste ground from fresh lemongrass, eggs, which we scooped out after (from $70 per night, including Hotel galangal, kaffir lime, turmeric, garlic, ﬁrst drinking the warm aromatic taxes; bambuhotel.com) has large eschalot and dried red chillies, that juices from the shell that we’d created rooms in a colonial-inspired villa as forms the basis of the most delicious by adding salt, pepper and lime juice. well as Khmer-style rooms in timber Cambodian soups, curries and stews. At Ponleu Preh Chung, where buildings, separated by an enticing Our culinary guide, Kim Nou, swimming pool. Mrs Vat Ongn has been crafting provided some of our most authentic In tropical gardens in peaceful a repertoire of desserts for over Cambodian food experiences. riverside Wat Kor village, Maisons 20 years, we had our ﬁrst taste of the Starting at a riverside restaurant heavenly banh ja’neuk, glutinous rice (from $89 per night, Wat Kor called Mlob Chan, which translates balls stuffed with mung bean paste, including taxes; maisonswatkor.com) drowned in coconut milk and tapioca, has spacious rooms in traditional to ‘in the shade of the nutmeg tree’, and sprinkled with sesame seeds. The Khmer timber buildings with we swung in hammocks in a rickety dish is nicknamed ‘killing husband’ wooden decks looking onto alfresco bamboo pavilion for its tendency to get caught in the a lotus pond and alluring pool. overlooking the Sanker River, while throats of drunk spouses. Nearby, set amidst emerald rice we waited for the feast he’d arranged But the highlight was our ﬁnal stop, paddies, Battambang Resort (from – there is no menu and guests simply where Mr Pra Dina piled raw beef request their favourite dishes, which $61 per night, including taxes; skewers that had been marinating in are served on a colourful mat on the battambangresort.com) boasts a plastic tub of kroeung onto a row of bamboo ‘ﬂoor’. The food is simple, modern minimalist rooms and has barbecues. As we watched him fan fresh and ﬂavourful. a poolside restaurant. All hotels smoke over the coals, dozens of Later that evening we continued to arrange excellent tuk tuk tours, while locals began arriving on motorbikes feast on local favourites at Antique Battambang Resort also offers breezy to join us in our patient wait. riverside bike rides and a ﬁshing , a splendid century-old House For an authentic breakfast, Phary boat cruise to absorb life on the water. Khmer timber house in Wat Kor also offers a cycle tour to a soup stall Village, which you can visit during where Mr Lee Mun and Mrs Te Lieng the day for a private tour by the have been making Battambang’s distinguished owner Madame Ming. quintessential breakfast, a pork noodle broth called kuy teav, Her long-term cook, Ming Pok, spent the day preparing our since 1995. Try the soup with pork slices or do as the locals elaborate meal. There was a sublime sweet and sour samlor do and opt for pork offal, including intestines and lung. majou kti manoas or pineapple chicken soup that was like a light chicken curry. A tangy lemony dip called tek kroeung, which we ate with miniature crunchy clusters of ﬂowers TOP TABLES called sdaow, was like nothing we’d ever tried before. Yet the When you’re done with eating on the streets, sleek new Jaan highlight was the ﬁnest rendition of a dish every tourist to Bai (Street 2), which translates to ‘rice bowl’, offers pan-Asian Cambodia eats – ﬁsh amok, prepared to a secret family recipe. sharing plates prepared with organic, seasonal produce, along 132 delicious.

Clockwise (from top left): Mr Pra Dina’s famous marinated beef skewers; food stall at Phsar Boeung Chhoeuk market; the kitchen team takes a break at Jaan Bai, a training restaurant backed by Australians Chef David Thompson and restaurateur John Fink; David Thompson’s ﬁery Jungle Curry at Jaan Bai; a local woman sells seedlings from the back of her bike.

with a pumping soundtrack and potent cocktails. Set in a stylishly refurbished shophouse clad in murals by local artists, you’ll enjoy Cambodian specialties including Kampot pepper crab from the south, while a ﬁery Thai jungle curry comes courtesy of Chef David Thompson of Nahm Bangkok , who, along with Australian restaurateur John Fink, is an advisor to the restaurant that trains local chefs. More Cambodian favourites (and Western comfort food) are on the menu at colonial-inspired Russey Restaurant (Street 203) at Bambu Hotel, from stir-fried peppery beef lok lak, to a hearty samlor kako, a Cambodian vegetable soup made with kroeung and prahok. The signature dish, beef Battambang, is a richer, more sophisticated version of sach ko ang jakak (grilled kroeung beef and pork skewers) that is served at weddings. Some of Battambang’s most elegant dishes are served at beautiful Maisons Wat Kor (Street 800) boutique hotel, where owner Kim Nou directs the kitchen to develop reﬁned renditions of Cambodian dishes that are packed with ﬂavour. Tasting menus change daily and tables must be booked ahead. Hope that the fried frangipani appetisers are on the menu. Deliciously simple dumpling and soup joint Lan Chov Khorko Miteanh (145 Street 2), known to expats as ‘Noodle Guy’, is the spot to hit for hand-pulled noodles and handmade dumplings, cooked to order at the front of the no-frills eatery.

COFFEE & COCKTAILS Kickstart your day with a creamy Cambodian cappuccino at rustic Kinyei Cafe (Street 1½), where the rich combination of palm sugar, pineapple syrup and coconut milk earned the lovely Sakana Long the title of 2013 national barista champion. You’ll also ﬁnd faultless coffee at Jaan Bai (Street 2), as you’d expect from a Melbourne-managed enterprise – along with icy beer on tap and Battambang’s best cocktails. Sundowners should be savoured on the riverside at the atmospheric Balcony Bar (Street 1) in a big traditional timber house about halfway to Wat Kor village, or in town on the waterfront at bohemian Cafe Eden (85 Street 1), where the upstairs balcony offers brilliant people-watching. If you’re in town on weekends, make a beeline for Lotus Bar (Street 2½) where Battambang’s expats will be sipping something while listening to live music.

“Jaan Bai, backed by David Thompson, offers pan-Asian sharing plates.”

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GETTING THERE Battambang is around 2.5 hours by private car or 4 hours by public bus from Siem Reap. Although it’s possible to visit independently, Asian-based Backyard Travel (backyardtravel.com) offer a three-day private tour to Battambang covering some of the activities above, including transfers, accommodation and some meals for $485 per person for two people. d.

global flavours.

Clockwise (from far left): elegant renditions of Cambodian specialities at Maisons Wat Kor; a family ﬁshing on the Sanker River; a bartender at Lotus Bar; a monk at Ek Phnom temple; local kids in the back of a tuk tuk; Bambu Hotel; a detail from Battambang’s Chinese temple.

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Gold rush Assistant food editor Warren Mendes heads to South Australia’s Kangaroo Island chasing every chef’s dream: super-fresh produce and the unique ﬂavours that are a result of the island’s pristine terroir.

“Visiting farm gates is the best way to sample local produce.”

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honey-glazed lamb with smoked yoghurt and roasted root vegetables Serves 4 You can substitute smoked yoghurt for plain natural yoghurt. 3 parsnips, quartered lengthways 1 bunch each baby beetroot and baby (Dutch) carrots, trimmed, halved if large 8 garlic cloves (unpeeled) 100ml olive oil 1 cup (280g) sheep’s milk yoghurt* 2 tbs each brown sugar and longrain rice 1/4 cup ﬁne woodchips for smoking* 2 lamb backstrap ﬁllets 1/3 cup (120g) good-quality organic honey Juice of 1 lemon 150g baby spinach 2 tbs sunﬂower seeds, lightly toasted Preheat the oven to 200°C. Combine the parsnip, beetroot, carrot and garlic on a baking tray, season and toss with 2 tbs oil. Roast for 35-40 minutes until golden and tender. Meanwhile, place yoghurt in a small wide bowl set above another small bowl ﬁlled with ice (this prevents the yoghurt from curdling as it smokes). Line the base of a wok with 2 pieces of foil, then add the sugar, rice and woodchips. Sit a wire rack in the wok. Place wok over high heat for 5 minutes or until starting to smoke, then place the two bowls on the rack and cover wok with a wok lid or large metal bowl. Reduce heat to medium and smoke for 10 minutes or until yoghurt has a smoky ﬂavour. Chill yoghurt. Heat 1 tbs oil in a large frypan over medium-high heat. Season the lamb, then cook, turning, for 2 minutes or until slightly browned. Reduce the heat to medium and brush the lamb with the honey. Continue cooking the lamb, turning and brushing with honey, for a further 5-6 minutes until caramelised. Remove lamb from the pan and rest, covered with foil, for 5 minutes, then slice. To make a dressing, combine the resting juices with lemon juice and remaining 2 tbs oil, then season. Arrange the lamb, roast vegetables, spinach and seeds on serving plates, drizzle with the dressing and serve with smoked yoghurt. d.

* Sheep’s milk yoghurt is from selected delis and health food shops. Woodchips are from hardware and barbecue shops.

WORDS & RECIPE WARREN MENDES FOOD & PORTRAIT PHOTOGRAPHY BRETT STEVENS STYLING BERNI SMITHIES LOCATION PHOTOGRAPHY CRAIG WALL & SOUTH AUSTRALIAN TOURISM COMMISSION (HONEY & SEALS)

“THERE’S GOLD IN THEM HILLS, you just got to ﬁnd it,” Peter Davis’ late father, Ivan, once told him of the rugged terrain of Kangaroo Island off the coast of South Australia. Peter now oversees 1400 organic hives of Ligurian bees under Island Beehive after taking over Ivan’s 12 hives in 1963. And it turns out Ivan was on the money – I was lucky to strike gold on a recent trip to Kangaroo Island, which is the ideal location for boutique producers, from winemakers to dairy farmers. High-end restaurants are left for the mainland, so visiting farm gates is the best way to sample local produce. Or call chef Tony Nolan, who operates a mobile kitchen (kangarooislandculinaryadventures.com.au) using the best produce he can get his hands on each day. You could enjoy tender conﬁt abalone at a vineyard lunch or perched on bales of hay overlooking the ocean. Ever tasted lamb chorizo? Locals head to Southrock Lamb to get their ﬁx of this KI take on a delicacy, as well as stock up on premium cuts laced with subtle notes of salt (thanks to the Arctic winds that scent the pastures). The prized sheep’s milk dairy range from Island Pure Sheep Dairy is certainly worth tasting, too. Chef and cheesemaker Justin Harman produces tangy haloumi and feta, as well as creamy yoghurt, ricotta and labneh. Today the world’s only pure Ligurian bees call the island home, yielding organic honey with strong ﬂoral notes – the top choice for many chefs, including Tim Bourke of Southern Ocean Lodge. At any other time, you need to stay at the luxe lodge to sample Tim’s dishes, but during this month’s Kangaroo Island Feastival, Tim is hosting a pop-up dinner at Island Beehive, where you can also try island-made wines from Islander Estate Vineyards. Visit: tourkangarooisland.com.au/kifeastival.

WHERE Kangaroo Island, SA. WHEN Kangaroo Island brings out beauty in all seasons. Sample the best local produce and ﬂavours at Kangaroo Island Feastival (April 24-28). WHY To unwind, sample the abundance of artisan produce or get out into the great outdoors with the island’s famous wildlife. MUST DO Stay at the Cliff House (life-time.com.au) to enjoy the sunset overlooking Snelling Beach, then dine under the magical canopy of the 150-year-old ﬁg tree on the property. Taste island-distilled gin at Kangaroo Island Spirits (kispiritis.com.au). HOW Hop on a 30-minute REX ﬂight from Adelaide, or take your car on the 45-minute Sealink ferry journey from Cape Jervis, which is a scenic 2-hour drive from Adelaide, to Penneshaw on the island.

Clockwise from top left: some Kangaroo Island locals; honey-glazed lamb with smoked yoghurt and roasted root vegetables; Island Beehive hives; stay at the Cliff House.

24 hours. of Julia Child’s and is known for the Super-Rica Especial – tortillas ﬁlled with pork, roasted pasilla chillies and cheese. However cross-town rival, Super Cuca’s (626 W. Micheltorena St), was voted best burrito in Santa Barbara last year.

2pm WINE TIME Explore the sub-culture chic of downtown via the Urban Wine Trail (urbanwinetrailsb. com). More than a dozen tasting rooms within a kilometre radius means you can sample the region’s best vineyards minus the designated driver. Along the way, stop at Chocolate Maya (15 W. Gutierrez St) for decadent hand-made confections including organic vegan trufﬂes and dark chocolate scented with rosemary.

4pm SUNDOWNER Any local will tell you that the perfect Santa Barbara sunset includes the trifecta of fresh oysters, New England clam chowder and a perfectly seasoned Bloody Mary at Brophy Bros. (119 Harbour Way) while overlooking the harbour.

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SEASIDE START Stroll along popular East Beach (E. Cabrillo Blvd) past packed volleyball courts into Montecito – home to movie stars, business titans and media moguls – to Jeannine’s (1253 Coast Village Rd). Grab a table on the patio and tuck into the eggwhite vegie scramble or throw calories to the wind with the Kahlua banana French toast.

LOCAL CULTURE Refuel with an espresso or drip coffee at The French Press (528 Anacapa St), then wander down the street to tour the ornate Moorish style Supreme Court (1100 Anacapa St) and take in the panorama from the top of the 26-metre El Mirador clock tower, including the town’s iconic namesake, Old Mission Santa Barbara (2201 Laguna St), which is steeped in 225 years of local history.

10am TO MARKET Stop by Pierre LaFond Montecito Market (516 San Ysidro Rd) for up-market goods (think roast garlic, Champagne mustard and ﬁg balsamic), cookbooks and local wines.

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1pm HOT TAMALES The ramshackle taco stand La Super-Rica Taqueria (622 N. Milpas St) was a favourite

11pm HIT THE HAY Citrus-farm-turned-luxury-hideaway, the romantic San Ysidro Ranch (900 San Ysidro Ln) has catered to celebrities (Audrey Hepburn, John and Jackie Kennedy, Bing Crosby and Winston Churchill, to name a few) for years, while current A-listers seek solitude in the cottages tucked away in the hills. For a thriftier alternative, Victorian Upham Hotel (1404 De la Vina St) is the ideal bed and breakfast. d.

ILLUSTRATION STEPHANIE WESTCOTT

The beachside town just north of LA is the embodiment of California dreaming with taco stands and swanky seafood spots.

SEE AND BE SEEN Oprah Winfrey is one of the famous faces to call Lucky’s Steakhouse (1279 Coast Village Rd, Montecito) their local. Best known for their steaks, the chophouse also has the market cornered on martinis and moreish sides. Follow up dinner with a signature coconut ginger mojito from Blue Agave (20 E. Cota St) or a ﬂight of boutique tequilas.

WORDS RACHEL HANSON

Santa Barbara

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/BlueDragonANZ www.bluedragon.com

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Bellarine Peninsula

One of Australia’s most acclaimed chefs, Ben Shewry of Attica, spends his free time far from Melbourne’s ﬁne dining scene with family in Ocean Grove, on the laidback Bellarine Peninsula.

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Where do you imagine one of the best chef’s in the world would take you to eat when you visited him at home? Would you enjoy an eight-course meal in a fancy dining room, a glass of vintage Champagne at an elegant bar, or slip off to the local bakery for a meat pie? If you guessed pie, you’re on track. Ben Shewry, internationally renowned chef of Attica in Melbourne’s Rippon Lea, has taken the likes of Matt Preston and award-winning Swedish chef Magnus Nilsson to his favourite pie shop in the town of Ocean Grove on the Bellarine Peninsula, where he and his family live. Safe to say that the pies are considered some of the best in the country, and it’s exactly this honest, good-quality, simple food in a low-key region of Victoria that appeals to the New Zealand-born chef and his young family. Ben and his wife Natalia ﬁrst discovered the small town through friends. “We liked it and ended up pitching a tent for a weekend, then decided it was where we wanted

to live,” he says. They’ve lived here, with their three children, for more than ﬁve years now, and it works despite the 90-minute drive into the city. Mornington Peninsula or north-east Victoria are probably the ﬁrst regions that come to mind when you think of all-in-one food, wine and holiday destinations – for their wine regions and popular seasonal restaurants throughout beachy summers and snow-capped winters. Spend some time on the the Bellarine Peninsula, however, and you’ll realise it has an earthy, honest approach to coastal living, plus plenty of worthwhile food, wineries and producers to explore. South-west of Melbourne, the region is surrounded by Port Phillip and Corio Bay and, along with the Mornington Peninsula, separates Port Phillip from the Bass Strait. Ben has worked incredibly hard with his business partners at Attica, David and Helen Maccora, and a very dedicated team of chefs and front-of-house professionals, to gain and maintain the proﬁle of one of the world’s best restaurants – it was ranked number 21 in the San Pellegrino World’s Best 50 restaurants in 2013 (the highest rated in Australia) – and it’s a gruelling schedule that maintains that proﬁle. But like many chefs, what he

“We pitched a tent one weekend, then decided it was where we wanted to live.”

WORDS HILARY MCNEVIN

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PHOTOGRAPHY MARK ROPER

1. & 2. The Piping Hot Chicken Shop and, Ben’s favourite, their pulled pork roll. 3. A brave swimmer in the ocean. 4. The main attraction at Rolling Pin Pies & Cakes. Previous page (clockwise from far left): Barwon Heads jetty; Starﬁsh Bakery; ricotta hotcakes from Grow Naturally; 13th Beach at Barwon Heads; Fritz Gelato; Van Loons Nursery in Wallington; Locavore Ben Shewry; local legend Darryn Murphy of Murf’s Longboards.

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1. & 3. Locally sourced Portarlington mussels on offer for lunch and dinner at Napona in Ocean Grove, or drop in for an afternoon coffee. 2. Surﬁng lessons for the brave at Ocean Grove’s Main Beach (see Things To Do, p 146 for lesson information).

serves customers and enjoys in the context of his own restaurant, and what he cooks at home and enjoys eating with his family are two different things. “I like simple, honest places that cook good food. It’s not about trends, it’s about quality,” says Ben, who shares with us here some of his and his family’s favourite places in the region he calls home.

OCEAN GROVE

One bite into the fabulously light pastry and tender slow-cooked ﬁlling explains why it took out top honours. Also available are creamy cakes, fruity custard tarts and friendly banter from the staff. “It’s a very Australian experience,” says Ben, “and most people get it. The kids love the sausage rolls.” Just around the corner from the pie shop is The Piping Hot Chicken and Burger Grill (Shop 6/63 The Terrace, Ocean Grove, (03) 5255 1566). Ben describes this large space, with its chaotic but welcoming decor and posters for upcoming shows and events lining the walls, as a community hub for Ocean Grove. It’s a chicken shop ﬁrst but also plays host to live music from local and visiting artists. “Places like this are important to the area,” he says, adding that it’s good for the youth of the area to have a place to spend time. As well as the chicken and hot salted chips, they do beef brisket and Ben’s pick, the pulled pork roll. Ben says it’s the kind of place you can “walk in with bare sandy feet and order a chicken roll with gravy.” Napona (24 Hodgson Street, Ocean Grove, (03) 5256 3153) is a small oasis two blocks behind the busy shopping strip. This leafy oasis offers respite for lunch, dinner or just a break in between. Ben enjoys Napona for hot chocolates with his three young children, but it serves as a restaurant, too.

“I like simple, honest places. It’s not about trends, it’s about quality.”

Ocean Grove is the small beachside town where Ben is based and where the aforementioned pies are produced. Rolling Pin Pies & Cakes (12 Park Lane, Ocean Grove, (03) 5256 1517) is humble in its presentation, a pared-back room with tiled ﬂoor, glassed-in cabinets ﬁlled with cakes and a ﬂoor-to-ceiling pie-warmer showcasing the signature crusts. Fillings range from chicken and mushroom to vegetable, bacon and egg, and of course the award-winning chunky beef.

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WHERE TO SHOP Darryn Murphy of Murf’s Longboards (82 The Terrace, Ocean Grove, (03) 5255 5525) is “an institution himself,” according to Ben, “Ocean Grove wouldn’t be what it is without Murf. People go in to talk to him, not just to shop.” Van Loons Nursery (405 Grubb Road, Wallington, (03) 5250 1842) is “just a beautiful garden shop,” says Ben. It’s worth just going for a look but if you’re a green thumb this is a must-visit. Kyo (26 Smithton Grove, Ocean Grove, (03) 5255 2444) is another of Ben’s favourites for its stunning collection of Asian-inspired furniture and artifacts. “People come to Ocean Grove just to check this place out,” he says. Stone and Grain (Shop 5 Ocean Plaza, 71 The Parade, Ocean Grove, (03) 5256 2228) is an elegant space in the heart of Ocean Grove selling furniture, homewares and gifts, while Ben enjoys the Ballyhoo Arts gallery (90 Ryrie St, Geelong, (03) 5222 4532) for a very simple reason, “It has a great selection of interesting artworks.”

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1. Darryn ‘Murf’ Murphy outside his shop in Ocean Grove. 2. Antique furniture and an array of signs, vases and light ﬁttings from the Far East at Kyo in Ocean Grove. 3. Fritz Gelato.

The lunch and dinner menus represent the produce of the area well. Lonsdale tomatoes may be mixed in a spaghetti of calamari, ﬁsh and prawns. Mussels from half an hour away in Portarlington are dressed in a broth of tomato, chilli and coriander sitting over a thick slab of good sourdough bread. The third Saturday of each month sees local farmers and producers congregate at the Bellarine Community Farmers’ Market (9am-1pm, Ocean Grove Park, cnr Draper St & Presidents Ave). Among the many producers you’ll ﬁnd Springﬁeld Olive Oils, sourdough breads from La Madre Bakery and The Bee Box selling honey and handmade condiments, preserves and dips. Bites to keep you going while you shop including Moejo’s Curries and Sushi, and Wun Hung Lo dumplings and dim sims. It’s a blissful place.

BARWON HEADS There’s a constant hum of movement in the Starﬁsh Bakery (78 Hitchcock Ave, Barwon Heads, (03) 5254 2772). Ben says he likes to drop in “after a long bike ride or a surf,” and there is a sense of saltwater and sandy feet among the customers who take a seat in the leafy courtyard out the front or in the small dining room. Bright blues, greens and purples dress the room where you order at the counter from the blackboard menu on the wall above. Pretty Pink Waldorf Salad may be a special – slow-cooked pork with marmalade, rocket and spinach and cucumber, while the green eggs and ham cooked with spinach and lots of fresh herbs, keep many a surfer sated after a morning on the waves.

“Ben drops into Starﬁsh Bakery in Barwon Heads after a bike ride or surf.”

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WALLINGTON “Elk Horn is another place that’s really honest,” says Ben as he talks about the Elk Horn Roadhouse (420a Wallington Road, Wallington, (03) 5250 6056) that sits in the small town inland between Ocean Grove and Barwon Heads. Part of the room is dedicated to a retail space where they sell relishes, jams and

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chutneys made in-house. Chalkboards resting against the front counter list the specials, perhaps a sticky black rice pudding with coconut cream, mango and toasted sesame seeds, as well as the single-origin coffee they’re brewing at the moment (for example a washed San Ignacio from Bolivia). Open for breakfast, lunch or takeaway, the cafe produces beautifully crafted seasonal dishes inspired by regional produce – think slow-roasted tomatoes, Camilo lemon-infused olive oil, Drysdale goat’s cheese and herbs from the garden on organic Zeally Bay Sourdough. Hearty mains include free-range sticky chicken wings with slaw, and a hefty steak sandwich.

PORTARLINGTON

1. & 4. Green eggs and ham from Starﬁsh Bakery; the busy courtyard out the front of the bakery. 2. & 3. Fishermen bring in their catch at Portarlington pier where Sea Bounty sell mussels straight off the boat.

Ben will often meet up with Sea Bounty’s Lance Wiffen at The Portarlington Bakehouse (48 Newcombe St, Portarlington, (03) 5259 2274), where “the bread is great and there’s a playground out the back for the kids.”

“Sea Bounty Mussels sell their daily catch directly off the boat.”

Half an hour north of Ocean Grove, Portarlington is renowned for its seafood, particularly the mussels. The lengthy Portarlington Pier, dotted with anglers after snapper, whiting or other local ﬁsh, asks for commitment to walk its full extent, and it’s worth every step. Sea Bounty Mussels (seabounty.com.au) sell their catch directly off the boat so there’s no argument as to their freshness.

QUEENSCLIFF

“It’s just really good gelato,” says Ben of Fritz Gelato (62 Hesse St, Queenscliff, fritzgelato.com), on the main drag of Queenscliff, the seaside town from which the ferry travels across to Sorrento on the Mornington Peninsula. The small shop carries a mix of vibrant gelati – rich chocolate, subtle pistachio and tart raspberry sorbet among others – and they all sit pretty against the white walls. It’s one thing to look good but the proof is in the ﬂavour and this is one of the better scoops you’ll ﬁnd anywhere.

THINGS TO DO Go for a surf at Ocean Grove Main Beach or 13th Beach at Barwon Heads. Try the lessons at Go RIde A Wave Surf School (gorideawave. com.au) or Surf Sessions (surfsessions.com.au). Mountain bike along the paths between Ocean Grove and Barwon Heads.

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Bellarine Adventure Golf (1540 Bellarine Hwy, Wallington, bellarine adventuregolf.com) “has two awesome mini courses and is the best place to take kids for a day out,” says Ben. Other family activities recommended by Ben include the Bellarine Railway (bellarinerailway. com.au) steam train from Queenscliff to Drysdale, and the Marine Discovery Centre at Queenscliff (mdca. org.au/centres/queenscliff).

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1. The historic Vue Grand in Queenscliff. 2. & 3. Picnic-style seating out the back at The Portarlington Bakehouse, where the decadent almond croissants are baked in-house.

GEELONG Roam Cafe (199 Ryrie St Geelong, (0432 535 965) is a

“one-woman band,” says Ben, “there’s a lot of love in the kitchen.” Mia Huang opened Roam in January last year and has gained a solid following for her simple cooking, whether it be a barbecued pork wrap or a plate of soba noodles with freshly shredded cucumber and carrot, ﬁnished with juicy pan-fried chicken and sesame and soy dressing. Coffee is the Dark Horse blend by Five Senses, and simple bookshelves dress the room ﬁlled with cookbooks and knick-knacks. Another of Ben’s favourites in the heart of Geelong is the understated Chinese restaurant Chan Wei (147 Moorabool St, Geelong, (03) 5221 7668). Be prepared for a sparsely decorated room where you order at the counter and friendly staff bring the dishes out as they come. Ben loves the chilli pork ribs – sweet, sour and spicy, they are a tumble of fried sticky deliciousness – and the Singapore noodles.

POINT LONSDALE “On a day off, Natalia and I might drop the kids at school and head to Point Lonsdale’s Grow Naturally (59 Point Lonsdale Road, (03) 5258 2508) for some time together,” says Ben. The cafe is just three minutes walk from the beach, and its earthy sensibilities are translated through hessian-covered cushions that soften the long wooden bench seats. Highlights include vegetable juices, fresh ricotta hotcakes with strawberry and rhubarb compote, corn fritters with coriander salsa, and vibrantly fresh slabs of spanakopita with local tomato relish.

“There’s a lot of love in the kitchen at Geelong’s Roam Cafe.”

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WHERE TO STAY

Koorameet (koorameet.com, from $320 per night) is an eco-friendly, self-contained retreat in Barwon Heads with loads of space, sleeping up to six. In Portarlington, the charming 19th-century Angasi Boutique Hotel (angasi.com.au, from $180 per double) overlooks the pier and offers en suite rooms and self-contained apartments for couples and families. Vue Grand (vuegrand.com.au, from $178 per double, with breakfast) is the grand old dame of Queenscliff. The historic building has 32 rooms and suites, with a bar and dining downstairs. d. Thanks to Tourism Victoria for assistance with this story. For more information, visit: visitvictoria.com.

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1. Ballyhoo Arts. 2. & 6. Elk Horn Roadhouse and their salad of beetroot with pickled apple, herbs, Drysdale goat’s cheese and Wallington cos lettuce. 3. View from Queenscliff beach. 4. Grow Naturally. 5. Knick-knacks at Roam Cafe, Geelong. 3

Curtis Stone’s lemon curd on brioche (recipe, p 66)

Index MAY 2014 STARTERS & LIGHT MEALS Caramelised onion & blue cheese ﬂatbread (v).................. 70 Carrot soup with herb puree and prosciutto crisps ........................... 64 Cauliﬂower-crust pizza with ricotta, prosciutto and mint pesto ................. 123 Cheddar & quinoa mufﬁns with sundried tomatoes and basil (v)........... 96 Chilli concertina squid with fennel ........ 104 Conﬁt tomato & ricotta crostini (v) .......... 56 Fried chicken livers with pickled cabbage ........................ 103 Onion & goat’s cheese tarts (v)................ 54 Orange, cranberry & walnut salad (v) ...... 55 Roast beetroot, caramelised onion & goat’s cheese tarts (v)....................... 94 Roast pumpkin & herb salad (v)............... 24 Thai chicken cakes................................... 59 MAINS Baked lamb schnitzel with celeriac slaw ................................. 81 Braised beef & cauliﬂower pie................. 36 Braised lamb korma with potato and coriander ................... 24 Cauliﬂower tikka masala (v).................... 103 Chicken Everest ....................................... 87 Chicken, leek & thyme pies with simple ﬂaky pastry........................ 72 Claypot snapper with burghul pilaf ......... 86 Farro salad with shanklish (v) ................... 34 Fettuccine with prawns, ﬁnger limes and grapefruit beurre blanc................. 66 Green harissa chicken with baked couscous ........................... 82 Honey-glazed lamb with smoked yoghurt and roasted root vegetables..136 Meatballs with risoni................................ 79 Mushroom san choy bow (v).................... 78 Pesto-crusted lamb racks with golden parmesan potatoes.......... 56 Pork with prosciutto & apricots ............. 104 Roast duck breast with orange, cranberry & walnut salad ..................... 55

Rolled pork belly with apple & raisin stufﬁng .................. 83 Slow-cooked beef with ras el hanout ...... 88 Spanish-style chorizo & pipi soup ........... 80 Sri Lankan salmon curry ........................... 77 Thai ﬁsh pie ............................................. 58 Warm spiced rice salad with fried cauliﬂower and broccoli (v) .. 24 Wine-braised chicken with roasted grapes ........................... 100 SWEET THINGS Aperol spritz jellies .................................. 57 Basboussa (semolina syrup cake) ............ 90 Berries & cream jelly slice...................... 120 Caramel walnut slice.............................. 121 Chai cake with ginger cream-cheese icing and pomegranate syrup.............. 10 Choc-hazelnut torte................................. 33 Chocolate chunk fudge & hazelnut cookies............................... 72 Double chocolate slice .......................... 121 Flourless chocolate & cardamom cake.... 96 Gluten-free mandarin, coconut & polenta cake with toffee mandarins.................. 74 Ginger cream with poached plums ......... 59

Latticed treacle & pecan tart ................. 108 Layered white chocolate cake ................. 71 Lemon & coconut slice .......................... 120 Lemon curd on brioche ........................... 66 Make-ahead berry soufﬂes ...................... 55 Orange blossom cheesecake with pomegranate syrup...................... 74 Passionfruit curd tartlets ........................ 112 Rhubarb galette..................................... 114 Salted banoffee tranche ........................ 111 Shari’s cugloaf.......................................... 90 Super indulgent mixed berry millefeuille ..................... 111 Ultimate chocolate & raspberry tart ...... 108 Upside-down apple & almond cake with pistachios ............ 25 Vegan banana bread muesli bars ............ 94 Vanilla ice cream.................................... 114 EXTRAS Anneka’s simple ﬂaky pastry.................... 72 Orange mostarda .................................... 64 Ras el hanout ........................................... 88 Semolina crackers.................................... 64 (v) denotes vegetarian dishes

Thanks The Test Kitchen uses Scanpan cookware and utensils, Global knives and Cuisinart small appliances from Sheldon & Hammond. For national stockists, tel: 1800 209 999.

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Skye Gyngell THE CHEF TO WATCH? There are so many young, talented chefs emerging; I think what Australian chef James Henry is doing at Bones in Paris with dishes such as cockles escabeche (left) is a great example of where food is going at the moment. BEST FOR BREAD? London has been slightly behind in the market for good artisan bakers, but it’s ﬁnally catching up with E5 Bakehouse (left) in East London producing some lovely sourdoughs. BEST FOR SMALL BITES? Barraﬁna in London’s Soho – it’s the most delicious tapas I’ve eaten. With a no-bookings policy, get there early to avoid a long wait. If you do need to wait, it is well worth it! WHERE I WANT TO EAT NEXT? Faviken (top left) in Sweden, I think Magnus Nilsson’s approach is so interesting – I have several friends who have eaten there and they have all come back swooning. BEST OFF THE BEATEN TRACK? East London’s Rochelle Canteen in Arnold Circus, owned by Margot Henderson (wife of chef/restaurateur Fergus) is my go-to off-the-beaten-track restaurant. Set in

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an old primary school bike shed, it is tiny but everything on the menu is spot on. RECENT FOODIE DISCOVERY? On a recent trip to New York, I ate at Roberta’s (above) in Bushwick, it had incredible sourdough pizzas and a really lovely atmosphere. BEST FOR PRODUCE? Spa Terminus in the Dockley Road Industrial Estate in South East London is the best small market. BEST FOR SWEET CRAVINGS I make a regular pilgrimage to Violet Cakes in London’s Hackney. Owner Claire Ptak, who is a former Chez Panisse pastry chef, makes beautiful seasonal cakes and pastries made with the best possible ingredients. THE NEXT BIG THING... is Copenhagen. I ate at Noma years ago and loved it and have been back several times since. Every time I’m excited by what I see happening there. I ate one of the best meals at Fiskebar, but Bror, Amass, Relae and Manfreds & Vin are all are doing great things. d. Skye Gyngell will be in the country for South Australia’s Tasting Australia food festival (April 27 – May 4). For information, visit: tastingaustralia.com.au.

PORTRAIT PHOTOGRAPHY CAROL SACHS

The acclaimed Australian chef and author shares her passion for fresh produce and food highlights from her base in London to New York.