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SUKHOI SU-34 HobbyBoss 1/48 Sukhoi SU-34
GasPatch 1/48 Scale Hs123
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EINS, ZWEI, DREI
The New Airfix 1/48 P-51
JANUARY 2018
Hasegawa 1/72 Scale B-24
SIX SHOOTER MUSTANG Vol 24 Issue 1 £4.75
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Scale Aviation Modeller International January 2018 • Volume 24 • Issue 1
WELCOME A
nother year over, and where did 2017 go! I am sure as I get older that time moves faster! It seems like only yesterday that I was building the Matchbox F-5A in its blue and white plastic, and an Airfix Mosquito that came in a box, not a clear bag from Woolworths. If my memory serves me correctly, I remember buying the Matchbox kit for £2 when it first appeared in my local hobby shop. While many will bemoan the price of modern plastic kits, if you think about it, that £2, with inflation, would now be the equivalent of £25. And unlike Mars bars, which have shrunk to what seems to be (at most) half their original size, look what we can get for £25 today. Airfix have released a beautiful kit of a P-40 Tomahawk in 1/72 scale for under
£8, and their superb state-of-theart 1/48 scale P-51 is only £22. Back in the 1970s, the Czech Republic was behind the iron curtain, but even then they produced some interesting subjects (including the most accurate Mig-15 available for many years). Though these were not as good as western manufacturers, they could occasionally be bought for a couple of pounds. Now, for under £16 you can purchase an Eduard Spitfire, including etched brass (still many years away in 1975), and decals that are of a quality we would never have believed possible back then. In 2018 we will be in a whole new golden age of plastic modelling, with quality kits that far eclipse anything available in my youth, and some that will, I am sure, raise the bar even higher. But
one thing that has not changed is that I will still be mucking kits up just as easily today as I did back in my youth. Ok, the days of applying the decals to the bare plastic and then painting around them with a stick may be long gone (I know, but it made sense at the time). Instead, I am now airbrushing my latest project with airbrush cleaner!!! Shows that despite all those years of practice, and even though you can teach an old dog some new tricks, really clever old dogs will still come up with new and even more catastrophic ways to muck it up. Therefore, goodbye to 2017, and I must say that (despite my modelling mistakes), I was very fortunate to work with some very talented modellers and production staff who have made producing
this title a sheer joy. So, I would like to take this opportunity to wish our readers and the whole SAMi team a very Happy New Year, and I hope in the year ahead all your mistakes are small ones. Now where is that wet-and-dry sandpaper?
David Francis, Editor
[email protected]
82 The Electric Man
Airfix 1/72 Savoia Marchetti S.79 Sparviero Serie II Bomber by Stephen J Di Nucci
Subscribe see page 80
22 Eins Zwei Drei
Gaspatch Model’s New 1/48 Henschel Hs123 by Jay Blakemore
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CONTENTS 1/48
1/48
SUKHOI SU-34
“THE COMPLETED SU-34 FULLBACK IS BIG, BEAUTIFUL, FITS TOGETHER WELL, AND I HAD A LOT OF FUN BUILDING IT”
BY DE VRIES BYSACCO PETER MARSHALL
A Russian Fullback
SU-34
KIT DETAILS:
MANUFACTURER: HOBBY BOSS PRODUCT NUMBER: 81756 SCALE: 1/48 TYPE: INJECTION MOULDED PANEL LINES: RECESSED PARTS: ABOUT 890 (SERIOUSLY!), PLUS A SMALL SHEET OF ETCH AND 3 WHITE METAL PARTS.
HobbyBoss 1/48 Su-34 Fullback by Peter Marshall
H
ave I said “golden age of modelling” yet this week? Well, I have now. I wasn’t even aware that this Hobby Boss kit was coming (shows how much attention I pay), but then, having been blessed with it to review, I find that Kitty Hawk will also be doing it in 1/48 scale as well! The Su-34 is a great looking aircraft, and Wikipedia tells us this about it: “The Sukhoi Su-34 (NATO reporting name: Fullback) is a Russian twin-engine, twin-seat strike fighter, intended to replace the Sukhoi Su-24. Based on the Sukhoi Su-27 ”Flanker”, the twoseat Su-34 is designed primarily for tactical deployment against ground and naval targets (tactical bombing/attack/interdiction roles, including against small and mobile targets); solo and group missions in daytime; at night,
under favourable and adverse weather conditions, and in a hostile environment with counter-fire and EW counter-measures deployed, as well as for aerial reconnaissance.” Basically, it seems to be a beefed up Su-27, optimised as a fighterbomber, with a side-by-side, two-person cockpit (like the F-111). So what’s in the (extremely large) box? My word, over 890 parts! Of those, about 640 are for the unbelievably extensive weapons choices, which make up 24 of the 34 sprues of fairly soft, medium grey plastic. I’m not going to go through everything that’s included at this stage, but suffice it to say that I’m thinking the main problem with this kit will be deciding what to hang on it. Let’s hope I’m right. The surface finish is generally nice and smooth, but the engraved detail is a little too restrained
for me and, while many at the Milton Keynes model club know my views on re-scribing panel lines (“Life’s too short”), even I was moved to run a scalpel over some of the finer lines. There are two sprues of clear parts, one being the large canopy, very reminiscent of the F-111, and the other being missile seeker noses, HUDs, lights etc. There are three metal parts for the undercarriage, a small sheet of etch, and two decal sheets. The larger decal sheet is mostly weapon and pylon markings, while the smaller sheet holds the markings for the two aircraft options provided. There are two full-colour Painting and Marking Guide sheets, one for the ordnance and one for the airframe. The instructions consist of a typical twenty-page booklet of line drawings, slightly smaller than A4. They look clear but we’ll see how they behave.
Looking good so far. So where do we start? Oh, the cockpit, how novel.
anything I can find pictures of. Regardless of whether any of the displays ever look like the decal, how often would they all be “on”, when there’s no crew in the cockpit? Another question was, what colour is the cockpit area? I like to see a Soviet cockpit with turquoise splashed everywhere, as it makes a change from grey. But your editor said that production Su-34s have gone this way, and there are definitely pictures of Su-34 cockpits in grey. But there are also some good pictures of it in turquoise and green. What to do? In the end, I delayed starting the cockpit, as there was the promise of some Eduard etch down the line. But when it turned up, I was still conflicted. The initial pictures of the etch I had seen online looked faintly blue-green, but when the set arrived (Su-34 Interior Set, 49 824) it had the parts in light grey. In the end, I thought, “who really knows?”, so my cockpit is a mixture of Vallejo 071 Emerald, Xtracolor RAF Dark Green, several shades of grey, and whatever colour the Eduard etch is. The Eduard set adds some much needed detail to the canopy, and the HUD is very nice, but the set itself is a little strange. On one side of the instruction sheet are the cockpit details (which I would consider “Su-34 Interior”), and on the other side are, well, external bits: air data stuff, static wicks, aerials, that sort of thing. It would have been really nice if, instead of that, they had included the seatbelts, rather than having them as another separate set
B-24 LIBERATOR
BY VRIES BYSACCO ROMANDE SCHILHART Scale Aircraft Conversions’ metal cockpit floor, dressed up with Eduard photoetch parts from the Interior Set. Here is how it all started, with lots of aftermarket items, motivation, and optimism! I used aftermarket parts from Eduard, CMK, True Details, and Scale Aircraft Conversions, and decals from Sky Models Italy, as well as Squadron Signal’s B-24 In Action as a reference.
(which I didn’t get). The large HUD section in front of the pilot, which I would assume has some controls on it, doesn’t get anything either. I was also supplied with the Su-34 Exterior Set 48 921, which includes wheel well and afterburner details (which has some complicated bending required!), amongst other things. Moving on… Next come the wheel bays. The nose wheel bay has nice structural detail, but it and the main gear bays
Wagon with
WINGS
ITEMS USED
KIT: HASEGAWA CONSOLIDATED LIBERATOR B-24J (E 29)
AFTERMARKET ITEMS USED:
• EDUARD BIG ED SET, 7247 • TRUE DETAILS WHEELS, 7216 • CMK BOMB BAY, 7235 • CMK CONTROL SURFACES, 7232 • SCALE AIRCRAFT CONVERSIONS, 72009 • SKY MODELS DECAL SHEET ,72-054
Hasegawa 1/72 B-24 Liberator by Roman Schilhart
T
o my eyes, the Liberator isn’t the most elegant design of the American aircraft industry; it rather reminds me of a train wagon with wings! Despite its aesthetic shortcomings, however, the Liberator was one of the most numerous USAF bombers in WWII service, with over 18.000 examples built. It saw action over Europe, as well as in the Pacific, and some saw service with the Royal Air Force in Europe, and in the Far East as well. In 2007, Hasegawa released a new-mould Liberator, in a number of versions and boxings, which was a welcome replacement for the venerable Airfix and Academy kits. The Hasegawa kit of the B-24J is the most expensive model I have ever purchased, with a price tag of 54 euros. Given its wingspan, it is also my most ambitious build to date (for now). Prior to starting, I amassed numerous aftermarket sets from Eduard, CMK, and True Details, as well as a metal undercarriage from Scale Aircraft Conversions, and
CONSTRUCTION The seats are an eleven-part assembly and look pretty nice. I was initially going to break out some resin, but as you can’t open the cockpit, I decided to use them as is. If I’m being honest, I don’t think Hobby Boss needed to use quite as many parts as there are to achieve the result they have (we may come back to that statement later), but I would class them as good plastic seats. The detail in the rest of the cockpit area is a little lacking (we’ll see how much is visible later anyway), but the instrument panel does look very nice. Hobby Boss have provided a decal for the panel, but they have chosen to depict all the MFDs “live,” with bright blue backgrounds, quite unlike
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6 A Russian Fullback 48 Photo Scrapbook
1/72
1/72
Interior Set (73318), from the Big Ed package. This set contains some nice pre-painted pieces, but I will say that not many of the details will be visible in the end. The aftermarket set from Scale Aircraft Conversions not only provides the metal undercarriage, but also a metal part for the cockpit floor. This adds some weight to the nose section – vital to prevent a tail-sitter! Even so, I was still worried about not having the required nose weight, so I filled up every available space in the front section with various kinds of weights, such as lead shot and washers. I took my time to detail the waist gun positions with photoetch parts, because this area can be easily seen if you display the gunner’s windows in an open position. Eduard does provide photo-etch ammunition belts, but I found them to be a little stiff and stubborn to fix. I replaced
Detailling the waist guns positions with Eduard photo-etch parts. Note the photo-etch ammunition boxes. Ammunition belts have not been installed at this stage.
them with more natural-looking rubber replacements from Aires. The machine guns that protrude from the side windows were left off for now, to be added later. The CMK Resin Bomb Bay Set was only partially useful. I couldn’t make out a significant difference from the original kit parts, and
frankly, they are not much better than the kit parts, and involve a lot of extra work. Furthermore, they reduce the stability of the whole build by adding weight aft of the center of gravity. After some contemplation, I decided to go with the plastic kit
decals from Sky Models of Italy. However, not all of the add-on parts proved useful, as we shall see later. Initially, I wanted to represent one of the Liberators from the 15th Air Force that saw action over my home country, Austria, in the closing months of the war. However, I was unable to source decals and detailed information within the time I had for this build. So instead, I settled for a rather attractively painted B-24J, named “The Shack”, of 458th Bomb Group, 754th Squadron, based in England in 1944-45.
THE INTERIOR I started with the cockpit, building up the interior of the fuselage halves with parts from Eduard’s
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Hasegawa 1/72 B-24 Liberator by Roman Schilhart 1/48
1/48
HENSCHEL HS123
DREI
for a single-seat aircraft to fulfil the joint role of fighter and divebomber. The winning design, in the shape of the Hs123, made its public debut in May the following year, flown by Udet himself. Although the chubby sesquiplane appeared somewhat anachronistic, when compared to other aircraft designs then being proposed (not least of all the monoplane dive-
Gaspatch Model’s New 1/48 Henschel Hs123 by Jay Blakemore
THE BIRTH OF THE DIVE BOMBER
W
hen Ernst Udet, the World War 1 fighter ace turned international stunt pilot, returned home from a tour of the United States, extolling the dive-bombing abilities of the new Curtiss Hawk II, he was duly offered funds by the newly established Reichluftfahrtministerium (German Air Ministry - RLM) to
bomber designed by Junkers), the RLM ordered the Henschel. Intended purely as an interim aircraft to bridge the capability gap until the more advanced designs were available for production, in 1936 a small batch of preproduction, Hs123A-0 standard aircraft were produced for service evaluation by the Luftwaffe. These were soon joined by slightly modified A-1 production-standard examples. The type entered official Luftwaffe service with StG 162 in the autumn of 1936, though its career as a dive-bomber seemed destined to be short-lived with the arrival the following year of the first examples of the Junkers Ju87. It was as part of the Condor Legion, during the Spanish Civil
War (July 1936 to April 1939), that the Henschel found its niche. A handful of Hs123s was initially deployed in-theatre as tactical bombers, though, unsurprisingly, their short range and small bomb load proved to be insufficient for the task. They were employed instead in the ground support role, where their ability to accurately hit pinpoint targets in a divebombing attack made them perfect for army cooperation. In Spain, however, they were soon replaced by the faster and more capable monoplane designs, and with the arrival in theatre
BRISFIT
Wingnut Wings 1/32 Post War F2.B Bristol Fighter by Guy Goodwin
T
he original Bristol Fighter was one of Wingnut Wing’s first kits, so you might expect it to be a little cruder than the latest offerings. Not in the least; in fact, I would rate it as the best Wingnut kit I have made to date. It’s quite a complex beast, and you would think it must be quite a demanding kit to produce. But once again, Wingnut have somehow made it into a sublime model that is straightforward in construction. Although this postwar offering is a recent release, it uses the original kit as its base. The box is absolutely packed with perfectly formed parts,
purchase two examples for use in aerobatic display. This not only gave German designers the opportunity to study state-of-theart American technology, it also allowed Hermann Göring, head of the fledgeling Luftwaffe, to entice the fighter ace and national hero back into military service. In February 1934, the dual-role capability of the Curtiss machines prompted the technical office of the RLM to issue specifications
22 Eins Zwei Drei
excellent colour instructions, and extensive Cartograf decals. And as this is the post-war version, it has some additional options – exhausts, radiator, etc. Oh, what a modelling treat - it doesn’t get any better than this!
HISTORY The Bristol Fighter F2.A was initially viewed by RFC aircrews as a ”standard” two-seater (i.e. a bomber, lacking in manoeuvrability), and was at first operated in that role. As a result, the first offensive action that involved the F.2A Fighter
did not end well. The patrol was deliberately timed to coincide with the British offensive at Arras, crossed the front lines on 5 April 1917. This excursion of six aircraft from No. 48 Squadron RFC, led by Victoria Cross recipient William Leefe Robinson (of shooting-downthe-first -German-airship-overLondon fame), ran into five Albatros D.IIIs from Jasta 11 led by Manfred von Richthofen. Four out of the six F.2As were shot down – including that of Robinson, who was captured – and a fifth was badly damaged. An inauspicious beginning. Other early experiences with the F.2A Fighter contributed to doubts over its effectiveness. The month in which the type was introduced to offensive operation became known as Bloody April. Casualties
were high throughout the RFC, and initially, the Bristol fighter proved to be no exception. During this period in aviation history, contemporary two-seater aircraft were far less nimble than fighter aircraft, and many types lacked the structural strength to carry out the aggressive manoeuvres needed for dogfighting. The first “Brisfit” aircrews were accustomed to the standard doctrine of maintaining formation and using the crossfire of the observers’ guns to counter enemy fighter aircraft. Despite some rumours that the type lacked the necessary structural strength to be flown as a fighter, pilots soon realised that the Bristol Fighter was a strong and agile aircraft, capable of manoeuvring with single-seat fighters. While its fixed forward-firing machine gun could be used as the primary weapon, the observer could also use his flexible, rear-mounted gun to provide protection from attacks from the rear. Flown in this manner, the Bristol Fighter achieved a remarkable level of success, and proved to be a formidable opponent for German fighters. From May 1917 onwards, the definitive F.2B Fighter quickly replaced the earlier F.2A model. In July 1917, the War Office decided to adopt the F.2B Fighter as the equipment for all fighterreconnaissance squadrons, leading to a significant increase in production. However, despite the issuance of contracts for further large batches of aircraft, it was apparent that the rate of production could not keep up with demand for the type. Perhaps one of the bestknown flying aces to use the type was Canadian Andrew Edward McKeever, and his regular observer L.F. Powell. By the end of 1917, McKeever accumulated 30 enemy aircraft kills, while Powell achieved eight. McKeever later became a flying instructor, stationed in England, before becoming the commanding officer of No. 1 Squadron of the newly formed Royal Canadian Air Force (RCAF). He continued to use the Fighter as his personal aircraft, which
1/48
6 • JANUARY 2018 • SCALE AVIATION MODELLER INTERNATIONAL
SHOW REPORT
1/48
1/48
Telford
PHOTO SCRAPBOOK
Scale ModelWorld 2017 W
hat a show, what a competition, and as is usual I missed so much, thanks to technology my watch tells me that I walked over 20 miles on the two days of the show and I never left the halls! This gives you an idea how big this event has become and I missed so much I never got the opportunity to take photographs of the S.I.G’s or clubs that are such an intrinsic part of the show. So my photo scrapbook is of the competition area, and just gives you a small idea of the quality of the models
P-51D
MUSTANG
1/48
CONSTRUCTION
on display. This year the best in show was won by a 1/18 scale Supermarine Spitfire which won a number of Trophies as well as it’s class (But strangely only came second in IPMS Czech Trophy, make you wonder what won!!!) As always a massive thank you to the large team of volunteers who made this event possible and are already organising the 2018 event on the 10th to 11th of November, and as it coincides with 100th anniversary of the First World War is bound to be special.
1/48
1/48 BEST IN SHOW!
Airfix 1/48 P-51D Mustang by D Francis
Unsurprisingly, we start with the cockpit, and this kit has as much detail as the Revell 1/32 scale kit we featured last month. I will
start with a feature that I have never seen before, which is that the pilot’s seat is made up from three parts: the seat pan, the seat back with moulded cushion and shoulder straps, and the support frame. Very conventional, except that the seat frame also features a moulded lap belt. Once assembled, this is as convincing as anything I have seen in plastic, and with careful painting has a really good 3D effect. It reminds me very much of the thin plastic seat belts that Japanese company Fine Molds started producing a few years ago. There are some circular depressions between the sides; some are actually supposed to be there, but two are injector pin marks. I used some ultrathin plasticard cut to shape and glued them over the marks. This is far easier than trying to use
a filler and sanding in such a small area, where so much detail could be removed by accident. Seventeen parts go into making up the cockpit, and the majority are finished in an interior green shade. Like all Airfix kits, the instructions recommend Humbrol paints, in this case number 226. However, I decided to use a custom mix of Tamiya XF-71, with a dash of XF-1 to darken it slightly, in order to match the colours in my main reference on the P-51, Modellers Datafile Number 24.
The various radio boxes, electrical junctions, instrument panel, and throttles were painted in Tamiya NATO Black, while the oxygen hose on the port side of the cockpit was painted in dark brown. I then applied a thinned black oil wash, which popped out all the detail that Airfix have moulded on these parts. Once that had dried, I
applied the instrument dial decals and placards to the sidewalls; this really helped bring the cockpit to life. For most modellers, the cockpit supplied is more than adequate, and certainly one of the best I have built out of the box in this scale. I now moved on to the ducting under the cockpit. This
6 • JANUARY 2018 • SCALE AVIATION MODELLER INTERNATIONAL
1/48
is supplied as full length, and is made up from a section moulded under the cockpit floor to which you add side and lower panels. These panels do have the trace of ejector pin marks, but a couple of swipes with a sanding stick removed them easily, then they were painted with Humbrol aluminium. The final items to be added to the extended cockpit floor moulding are the detailed sidewalls for the tailwheel bay, which include the bay doors. Airfix would have you add the tailwheel at this stage, but if you
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36 Quickbuild Mustang
1/48
1/48
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48 Photo Scrapbook
Airfix 1/48 P-51D Mustang by David Francis
Show report from Telford, Scale ModelWorld 2017 1/72
1/72
BUILDING As I had found my recent builds stalling a little (sometimes I seem to hit a modelling version of writer’s block), I wanted a kit that I felt really enthusiastic about, and the recent Wingnut Wings Postwar Brisfit fitted the bill. I also have a habit of rushing kits to get to the next one, but I was determined to take my time on this one and enjoy the journey. It had certainly got me fired up and, although I didn’t receive the kit for a few weeks (slight distribution issue apparently), I (almost) enjoyed the anticipation and used the time constructively, for research and for ordering the
WWW.SAMPUBLICATIONS.COM • JANUARY 2018 • 7
Telford International Centre – November 11th - 12th
ast month we previewed the new 1/48 scale Airfix P-51 Mustang, and I was very impressed with the level of detail in the cockpit and the choice of options. As an example, Airfix have supplied two different ventral fins, which is something that I have not seen in a P-51 kit before. I was so impressed with the kit that as soon as it hit the shelves in the UK, I purchased another example for my retirement stash, which is very rare for me, as I rarely build two examples of anything. In fact, this decision paid dividends later in the build, but more of that later.
was later transferred to Canada. Following the end of the First World War, the F.2B Fighter was soon adopted by the RAF as its standard army cooperation machine. The type continued to operate in army cooperation and light bombing roles throughout the British Empire, in particular the Middle East, India, and China. In line with this role, which led to its use under high-temperature conditions, Bristol introduced models of the Fighter equipped with “tropical” radiators and other furnishings for desert equipment that could better handle operations in higher temperatures.
Wingnut Wings 1/32 Post War F2.B Bristol Fighter by Guy Goodwin
QUICKBUILD
L
“WITH PATIENCE, YOU WILL BE REWARDED WITH A HUGELY SATISFYING BUILD AND A BEAUTIFUL END PRODUCT”
30 Far East Brisfit
Gaspatch Model’s New 1/48 Henschel Hs123 by Jay Blakemore
P-51D MUSTANG
Far East
of three new Ju87s, the writing finally appeared to be on the wall for Henschel’s tubby sesquiplane. But upon the outbreak of war in Europe and the Wehrmacht’s march into Poland, the 39 remaining Hs123s continued in their role of “flying artillery”, in support of the advancing army. They proved themselves once again to be devastatingly effective, especially when it was discovered by the pilots flying them that, by dropping the engine revolutions during an attack, a howling and rattling noise could be created that terrified the enemy below, causing
WWW.SAMPUBLICATIONS.COM • JANUARY 2018 • 7
BY DE VRIES BYSACCO DAVID FRANCIS
F2.B BRISTOL FIGHTER
BY DE VRIES BYSACCO GUY GOODWIN
“THIS KIT IS AS NEAR TO PERFECTION AS A MODEL CAN GET STRAIGHT OUT OF THE BOX”
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1/48
1/32
1/32
BY DE VRIES BYSACCO JAY BLAKEMORE
Eins Zwei
Wingnut Wings 1/32 Post War F2.B Bristol Fighter by Guy Goodwin
scale thickness than the kit parts. These would be attached later in the build, but the bombs were painted and added to the racks at this stage. The front wheel must be fixed in position before closing the fuselage halves. The True Details resin front wheel I used comes with the mudguard cast in place, but so does the metal leg from Scale
Aircraft Conversions. I preferred the SAC leg for its strength and for the extra weight that I needed in the nose. I scrapped the resin mudguard from the wheel, and I didn’t worry about losing the wheel’s profile, as it will be covered by the metal leg’s mudguard. I added a fake bulkhead to the top and rear of the forward wheel bay, making room for even more ballast to be inserted, as I realized that there would be little chance of doing so once the fuselage was closed. In total, I added over 94 grams of nose weight to the front section. It’s a good idea to insert the belly turret before mating up the fuselage halves, as it might be tricky to fit later in the build. Given Hasegawa’s high quality engineering, no problems were encountered with the main assembly, except for a small gap just behind the nose wheel, which was filled with some stretched
16 Wagon with Wings
HobbyBoss 1/48 Su-34 Fullback by Peter Marshall
Show report from Telford, Scale ModelWorld 2017
30 Far East Brisfit
parts for the main assembly of the bomb bay, while using CMK’s more detailed sidewalls and bomb rack ladders. The rack ladders were a bit too short, so I added some plastic strip to the ends. I also used CMK’s bomb bay doors, which have better
“SCALE AIRCRAFT CONVERSIONS NOT ONLY PROVIDES THE METAL UNDERCARRIAGE, BUT ALSO A METAL PART FOR THE COCKPIT FLOOR”
MARCHETTI S.79
Sponsored by Hataka Hobby
1/72
BY DEJ DI VRIES BYSACCO STEPHEN NUCCI
www.hataka-hobby.com
LA-7
1/72
BY DE VRIES BYSACCO VITOR COSTA The cockpit benefitted from some Eduard precoloured etch.....
16 Wagon with Wings
Hasegawa 1/72 B-24 Liberator by Roman Schilhart
“THE SAVOIA MARCHETTI S.79 WAS ONE OF SEVERAL LARGE THREEENGINE BOMBERS DESIGNED BY THE ITALIANS DURING THE 1930S”
The
ELECTRIC MAN INTRODUCTION
T
he Savoia Marchetti S.79 was one of several large three-engine bomber and transport types designed by the Italians during the 1930s. Pre-war public opinion had been carefully groomed, both in Italy and abroad, through a number of world-record flights by “civilian” types, at the end of which the S.79 gained an impressive reputation for distance and speed flying. During the Spanish Civil War, it began to also develop its reputation as a bomber, where it was almost impervious to interception. Although many believed that this was due to its performance, in truth it was also due to the quality of the available fighter opposition.
Soviet
SHARPSHOOTER
ONE
The Savoia Marchetti S.79 Sparviero Serie II Bomber in 1/72-scale by Airfix by Stephen J Di Nucci Photographs: Phil Jones and Stephen J Di Nucci Unfortunately for the Italians, this belief persisted into the Second World War, even when the performance of fighter aircraft across Europe moved rapidly ahead of that of bombers. Nevertheless, the aircraft was a stable weapons platform and could absorb battle damage, and before long, in its final and best role as a torpedo bomber, it was the scourge of the Royal Navy in the Mediterranean. In order to provide dorsal accommodation for both forward (attack) and rear (defence) guns, it had been necessary to spoil the earlier sleek airliner design with a humped fairing. This soon drew the nickname “Il Gobbo” (Hunchback), or even “Il Gobbo Maledetto”. The British called it the “Damned Hunchback”.
....and was suitably painted and detailed
“FOR THIS BUILD I’M USING HATAKA ORANGE LINE COLOURS, AND IN PARTICULAR ELEMENTS FROM THEIR LATE WORLD WAR II SOVIET AIR FORCE PAINT SET HTK-CS20”
Officially, it was named the “Sparviero” (Sparrowhawk). Regarding the S.79 designation; many people, myself included, use “SM.79” freely on a casual basis. The aircraft was of course designed by Alessandro Marchetti, but his name was not added to the company title until 1937, and therefore aircraft are properly designated “S.” or “SM.”, depending on the date of the design, which was 1933 in the case of the Sparviero.
THE KITS This, the most important Italian aircraft of World War Two, was bereft of much in the way of plastic attention for many years, and even now there is still room for more in 1/72 scale. At present, the injection moulded choices remain only the Airfix kit, first produced in1967, and that from Italeri in 2003. The Airfix kit is long out of production, being last produced in
2004, and the Italeri kit has at times been unavailable in the UK. Fortunately, the Airfix kit is still not too hard to locate amongst traders who sell pre-owned kits. If you don’t have a copy, try to obtain one from the earlier batches, moulded in pale blue polystyrene; some of the later production batches are in a bigger box, and were produced in a horrible, grey plastic, which is brittle and very prone to flaking.
WHAT YOU NEED The Airfix kit is able to produce an excellent result with a little work, but it does have more than a few problems; for example, 14-cylinder two-row engines, when in fact, 9-cylinder singlerow engines are required. Only slightly wrong! Its most annoying weakness, however, is a tendency
for the main-gear legs to fracture just above the wheel axles. The cockpit canopy is also very thick, but in terms of its frame lines it is actually better than the newer Italeri kit! The engine cowlings are too big and are simplistically shaped. There is no attempt to replicate the fabric covering of the rear fuselage and control surfaces. Airfix have done nothing more than to represent the positions of the attachments of the fabric using raised “panel” lines; I decided to do no more than to give these an ultra-light sanding to change their profile slightly from half-round to flat-batten. The front fuselage of the actual aircraft was skinned in metal; Airfix
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have again used raised lines for this panel detail, but the modeller can easily rescribe this small area. The wings were of timber construction, and here Airfix have really overdone it; the wings are covered in stacks of raised lines – not a suitable representation for an aircraft skinned in plywood, which has been bonded and sanded smooth. Here we can be grateful for the raised lines, as they are much easier to eradicate. One authoritative source records that the wing had a final covering of fabric, although parts of the wing undersurface were apparently not so covered. The kit’s control surfaces are quite good, with separate elevators and rudder.
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82 The Electric Man
Airfix 1/72 Savoia Marchetti S.79 Sparviero Serie II Bomber by Stephen J Di Nucci
Vitor Costa shows you how to paint and weather the 1:72 Eduard La-7 using Hataka products
U SPONSORED FEATURE
sually, I don’t like reboxings, where brands try to sell ‘old’ kits inside ‘modern’ wrappers. However, Eduard is the exception, as their re-boxings always contain some neat extras such as etched parts, resin upgrades and new decals. This build features such kit, their 1:72 La-7 ‘Weekend Edition’. Inside the box, which incidentally has some wonderful artwork, are two injection moulded sprues, with really nice engraved panel lines, a set of pre-painted etch, a canopy mask, and an excellent decal sheet eight possible options to choose from.? As usual, the
build began with the cockpit, which is pretty basic but is lifted to a new level by the addition of the pre-painted etch. I coloured the ‘office’ with Hataka Light Gull Grey before applying an oil wash to add some wear followed by some dry brushing to pick out the details. I then affixed the coloured etch using Superglue, before joining the fuselage halves together. The fit here was not perfect, a small amount of putty was needed on the upper surface, however on the undersides, copious amounts of filler were required to level the join with the wing, I also had to attach two
KIT DETAILS
There were a few gaps to fill on the undersides..... strips of plastic sheet to fill a huge gap near the engine. There are also some sink marks that needed to be filled. The windshield also needs some putty to fill some minor gaps, and here I used Deluxe Materials Perfect Plastic Putty. After a quick tidy up here and there, I was ready to paint. For this build, I’m using Hataka Orange Line colours, and in particular elements from their Late World War II Soviet Air Force Paint Set HTK-CS20, and I must confess that I really like them! I began with the lighter shades, and first I applied a coat of AMT-7 Grey-Blue on the undersides, and once dry I used a little White to start the initial weather effects. Then I added a little thinned White to some
....but less on the upper surfaces.... of the panel lines to simulate worn paint, applied in the direction of the airflow. The idea was to create different shades of the original colour. Once dry I applied another coat of the Grey-Blue with just a touch of Black, to simulate shadows. With the undersides painted, it was time for the upper surface camouflage, and I began with a coat of AMT-11 Blue-Grey, followed by the same weathering techniques that I had used on the undersides. When this was dry I added AMT12 Dark Green as the disruptive camouflage colour, and once dry, this too was suitably weathered. The nose section was then masked off and painted with C-103 Traffic Red Once dry, the model was given a coat of Hataka Gloss Varnish
MANUFACTURER: EDUARD SCALE: 1:72 KIT TYPE: PLASTIC INJECTION MOULDED WITH ETCH AND RESIN PARTS KIT NUMBER: 7066
...where Deluxe Materials Perfect Plastic Putty was very useful
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88 Soviet Sharpshooter Painting and weathering the 1:72 Eduard La-7 using Hataka products by Vitor Costa
ALSO INSIDE 43 The SAM News 52 First Looks • Tamiya 1/48 Messerschmitt Bf-109G-6 (Late Test Shot) • Airfix 1/72 Boeing Fortress Mk III • Artesania Latina 1/16 Fokker DRI • Italeri 1/48 F-104G Starfighter
58 New kit listing 60 Accessories 66 Decals 72 Reviews 94 Books & Media 98 Back Page
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SUKHOI SU-34
BY DE VRIES BYSACCO PETER MARSHALL
A Russian Fullback
SU-34 HobbyBoss 1/48 Su-34 Fullback by Peter Marshall
H
ave I said “golden age of modelling” yet this week? Well, I have now. I wasn’t even aware that this Hobby Boss kit was coming (shows how much attention I pay), but then, having been blessed with it to review, I find that Kitty Hawk will also be doing it in 1/48 scale as well! The Su-34 is a great looking aircraft, and Wikipedia tells us this about it: “The Sukhoi Su-34 (NATO reporting name: Fullback) is a Russian twin-engine, twin-seat strike fighter, intended to replace the Sukhoi Su-24. Based on the Sukhoi Su-27 ”Flanker”, the twoseat Su-34 is designed primarily for tactical deployment against ground and naval targets (tactical bombing/attack/interdiction roles, including against small and mobile targets); solo and group missions in daytime; at night,
under favourable and adverse weather conditions, and in a hostile environment with counter-fire and EW counter-measures deployed, as well as for aerial reconnaissance.” Basically, it seems to be a beefed up Su-27, optimised as a fighterbomber, with a side-by-side, two-person cockpit (like the F-111). So what’s in the (extremely large) box? My word, over 890 parts! Of those, about 640 are for the unbelievably extensive weapons choices, which make up 24 of the 34 sprues of fairly soft, medium grey plastic. I’m not going to go through everything that’s included at this stage, but suffice it to say that I’m thinking the main problem with this kit will be deciding what to hang on it. Let’s hope I’m right. The surface finish is generally nice and smooth, but the engraved detail is a little too restrained
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“THE COMPLETED SU-34 FULLBACK IS BIG, BEAUTIFUL, FITS TOGETHER WELL, AND I HAD A LOT OF FUN BUILDING IT”
KIT DETAILS:
MANUFACTURER: HOBBY BOSS PRODUCT NUMBER: 81756 SCALE: 1/48 TYPE: INJECTION MOULDED PANEL LINES: RECESSED PARTS: ABOUT 890 (SERIOUSLY!), PLUS A SMALL SHEET OF ETCH AND 3 WHITE METAL PARTS.
for me and, while many at the Milton Keynes model club know my views on re-scribing panel lines (“Life’s too short”), even I was moved to run a scalpel over some of the finer lines. There are two sprues of clear parts, one being the large canopy, very reminiscent of the F-111, and the other being missile seeker noses, HUDs, lights etc. There are three metal parts for the undercarriage, a small sheet of etch, and two decal sheets. The larger decal sheet is mostly weapon and pylon markings, while the smaller sheet holds the markings for the two aircraft options provided. There are two full-colour Painting and Marking Guide sheets, one for the ordnance and one for the airframe. The instructions consist of a typical twenty-page booklet of line drawings, slightly smaller than A4. They look clear but we’ll see how they behave.
Looking good so far. So where do we start? Oh, the cockpit, how novel.
anything I can find pictures of. Regardless of whether any of the displays ever look like the decal, how often would they all be “on”, when there’s no crew in the cockpit? Another question was, what colour is the cockpit area? I like to see a Soviet cockpit with turquoise splashed everywhere, as it makes a change from grey. But your editor said that production Su-34s have gone this way, and there are definitely pictures of Su-34 cockpits in grey. But there are also some good pictures of it in turquoise and green. What to do? In the end, I delayed starting the cockpit, as there was the promise of some Eduard etch down the line. But when it turned up, I was still conflicted. The initial pictures of the etch I had seen online looked faintly blue-green, but when the set arrived (Su-34 Interior Set, 49 824) it had the parts in light grey. In the end, I thought, “who really knows?”, so my cockpit is a mixture of Vallejo 071 Emerald, Xtracolor RAF Dark Green, several shades of grey, and whatever colour the Eduard etch is. The Eduard set adds some much needed detail to the canopy, and the HUD is very nice, but the set itself is a little strange. On one side of the instruction sheet are the cockpit details (which I would consider “Su-34 Interior”), and on the other side are, well, external bits: air data stuff, static wicks, aerials, that sort of thing. It would have been really nice if, instead of that, they had included the seatbelts, rather than having them as another separate set
(which I didn’t get). The large HUD section in front of the pilot, which I would assume has some controls on it, doesn’t get anything either. I was also supplied with the Su-34 Exterior Set 48 921, which includes wheel well and afterburner details (which has some complicated bending required!), amongst other things. Moving on… Next come the wheel bays. The nose wheel bay has nice structural detail, but it and the main gear bays
CONSTRUCTION The seats are an eleven-part assembly and look pretty nice. I was initially going to break out some resin, but as you can’t open the cockpit, I decided to use them as is. If I’m being honest, I don’t think Hobby Boss needed to use quite as many parts as there are to achieve the result they have (we may come back to that statement later), but I would class them as good plastic seats. The detail in the rest of the cockpit area is a little lacking (we’ll see how much is visible later anyway), but the instrument panel does look very nice. Hobby Boss have provided a decal for the panel, but they have chosen to depict all the MFDs “live,” with bright blue backgrounds, quite unlike
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are lacking any wiring or piping; in this scale, I would suggest there should be something more. The Eduard set added some details but, given that I discourage people from looking underneath my models, I don’t know how much it will be appreciated anyway. I must mention the rather clever way these parts are designed. Maybe I just haven’t had a play with an etched set for a while, and this is old news to most people, but the idea of etching the plate with the stakes still just connected at one end, so all you have to do is to bend them back into position and glue, is brilliant.
With regards to the plastic, as I was making the first stage of the nose wheel bay I thought to myself, “They really should think about these gear door retractor struts, they won’t make it through the build”. In fact, one of them didn’t even make to the end of the subassembly, but I figured that I would replace it later with any others that become detached. The kit supplies the option (should you have enough references to scratch-build some details), to have the crew access hatch in the nose bay open, so you can see through the door into the cockpit area. To keep my options
open, I left this sliding section unattached at this stage. The main gear bays fit together nicely with some neat locating tabs, and once these, the nose bay, and the cockpit were fitted into the appropriate fuselage half (split top and bottom, rather obviously, given the shape of the airframe), we can get the fuselage joined up. The exhausts are designed to slip in later (thank you!), and the undercarriage very near the end (THANK YOU!). My, it is quite a large aircraft… The instructions have you do the engine exhausts next, followed by the vertical tails, then the canards, flaps, leading edge slats,
and horizontal tails. But there is no need to attach them now, (although I did put the exhausts together), so I thought I would skip forwards and do the intakes first, because the thing gets hard to hold with all the tail surfaces and canards attached (as I know from my Su-33). The exhausts are made up from six parts each, and they look good out of the box. The Eduard set supplies replacement afterburnerring parts with a clever push-pull way of forming them: I found this hard on the first go but the second was a lot easier. To be honest, though, I’m not sure how much it adds, because the ring beyond
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“THE EXHAUSTS ARE MADE UP FROM SIX PARTS EACH, AND THEY LOOK GOOD OUT OF THE BOX”
it, with 22 tiny fingers bent at 45 degrees, seems totally unnecessary. I fitted it anyway, and I know it’s there, but you can barely see it on the completed model. Once the exhausts were assembled, I put them aside for adding later. I wasn’t initially that taken with the look of the intake trunking, but once I started putting it together, it works quite well. There is some nice grille detail on the outside of the forward inlet area, but there should also be corresponding detail on the inside of these parts, which is lacking. Fortunately, this is included in the
Eduard “Exterior” set. There are also no colour callouts for the intake trunking, but most of the walk arounds I found had FOD covers in place, so I went with X015 RAF Light Aircraft Grey. This looks pretty close to the colour of the undercarriage and wheel bays in the pictures I looked at. The trunking does give you the full depth to the compressor face, and there’s an etch part, which I assume represents a pitot for the intake ramp system. I finally found a few pictures taken down the intakes, and found that the underside blue colour extends quite a way into the trunk. I would
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guess this goes a couple of feet past the pitot, so I did some masking and painting of this area before assembling the intakes. It would be very difficult to do this afterwards, so do not say you are not warned. Also supplied are what I assume are auxiliary doors, two per side, on the inner side of the trunking. They look like they are designed to be posable, but as I couldn’t find any good pictures of what they should look like, and the instructions don’t give any clues, I installed them in the neutral position. This is a bit of a waste, as they could add a little interest if you knew what you should be looking for (just how much interest is debatable, I guess, as they are hidden in the tunnel between the two intake trunks, and the view will likely be blocked by ordnance). As a background task (like when waiting for glue to dry), I started on the undercarriage. This looks very nice, with lots of parts, and when built up it looks realistic and rugged - again, though, with
the proviso that adding some plumbing would lift it to the next level. I admit that this is difficult to produce in plastic, and I seriously considered breaking out some wire, but decided “Life’s too short”. I really like the metal inserts inside the undercarriage legs, as they should give sufficient strength (this would have been a good idea for some of the other Su-27 variant nose legs). However, I don’t like that Hobby Boss have chosen to place the identifying numbers on these metal parts in places where they will be visible. It really wouldn’t have been hard (I wouldn’t have thought) to put them on a section that would be covered by the plastic parts. Instead, I have something else to clean! I know people will have views on the vinyl tyres, but the ones in this kit look to be very nicely done (though it does mean there’s no representation of weighted wheels). The separate hubs do make painting very easy, though I didn’t really see the need for the two hub
halves to have locating pins. For the main wheels, it certainly makes things very hard to line up. I just removed the pins so they didn’t get in the way. I now painted the undercarriage, in the previously mentioned RAF Light Aircraft Grey. With it ready to roll, it was back to the tails and control surfaces. The vertical and horizontal tails are all two-part assemblies (plus rudder parts on the vertical tails) and are nicely engraved, though most (but not all!) of the pictures I’ve found of the underside of the horizontal tails show a bare metal section. This isn’t represented on the kit parts (clearly molded on the Kinetic Su-33), though it’s shown in the paint instructions. The few close-ups I’ve seen suggest it IS a panel in its own right, but, just to make it more complicated, I’ve also seen pictures with differing extents of bare metal, or none at all! But that’s yet to come, so I glued the parts together and sanded the edges down, and moved onto the control surfaces.
Slight moan...there is a place for moulding the sprue attach points on the mating surface, and when used appropriately it’s very useful. However, it can be misused. For instance, the rudders are molded with the attachment on the edge of the parts, so you cut them off the sprue and glue them straight together. Then, when you clean up the edges the sprue attach gets cleaned up with them. Great. The trailing edge flaps, however, have the attachments on the mating surface. You cut them off the sprue, clean the four attachment points on the mating surfaces on each part, glue them together, and then clean the edges up anyway. Why? Inappropriate use of the concept, frankly, and just another opportunity for me to stab myself with a scalpel. It’s almost as if this kit was produced by two different teams (this will crop up again later!), only one of which was composed of modellers. Anyway, the canopy was now
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masked, using Eduard’s mask set (EX 550), then fitted to the fuselage. The tail bullet was also now attached (it sort of snapped into place in a manner I wasn’t expecting, which was nice: it’s worth noting, however, that there are a lot of pictures showing it with surface detail, such as vents, which are not represented), and the wing fences fitted. For now, I left off the vertical tails (very clever engineering to use the base of the tails to eliminate the fuselage join in this area), the horizontal tails, and the leading and trailing edge wing control surfaces (though I fitted the rudders to the vertical tails with the rudders very slightly offset, because I could, and what’s the point of separate control surfaces if you don’t?), and it’s paint time!
PAINTING Paint-wise, I had been supplied with a couple of bottles of “acrylic lacquer” from a Slovakian company new to me, Mr. Paint (MRP). I have no idea what an acrylic lacquer consists of but they come in a jar identical to the Alclad range, with
the ball bearings for mixing and are, I assume, intended to be used straight from the bottle. I was given MRP-202 Light Blue and MRP-205 Eggplant Dark Grey, so that sort of decided which of the two schemes I was going to be doing. This wasn’t a hardship, as it is an interesting colour scheme, and is unlike anything else I have ever done. I first painted and masked the multitude of what are, I assume, dielectric panels. They are located on the wing leading edges and roots, tops of the tails, leading edge of the right hand vertical tail, tip of the tail bullet, fuselage side below the cockpit, upper surface behind the cockpit, under the
cockpit (including four circular panels that the instructions don’t show as a different colour, but some pictures do), and the radome itself. As to what colours to do the panels, well…the instructions suggest that some are white and some are grey, but I haven’t found a proper walk-around of a Su34 in “eggplant” yet, so I had to make do with occasional pictures I found on the web. One of these clearly shows them all as grey, but I then found a few pictures of “Red 10” (the markings in the kit), showing both the grey and white panels the instructions suggest. So I went with that. These pictures also clearly
show that the leading edges of the wings, vertical tails, and canards are painted grey, and I assume the horizontal tails are the same. Other pictures show different aircraft with all the panels in white, or no leading edge grey, or the four underside circles grey against the blue etc, etc, etc. It’s all a bit of a lottery as to whether you can get this right, I feel, unless you happen to stumble over a detailed walk-around of the particular aircraft you want to model. I stuck to the paint instructions, painting and masking the bare metal areas (BTW, the gun vent areas on the kit are like nothing I found pictures of), and then pre-shaded the panel lines with black. Once that was dry, I painted the underside blue. The MRP-202 sprayed beautifully and covered really well, considering how thin it is. It dries almost immediately (but not in the nozzle of the airbrush), and you can handle it very soon after. I was very impressed with MRP Paints, but what to clean the brush with? It says “acrylic lacquer”, so acrylic thinners, or lacquer thinners? I searched for other reviews and came across one
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where the author used cellulose thinners and was happy with the result. So I did the same. They seemed to clean the nozzle, etc, as it flowed through OK but it didn’t clean the cup very well. Then I did some more masking and sprayed the MRP-205 Eggplant Dark Grey (lovely colour!). It took a couple of coats to make it even enough, but given how well it sprayed and how quickly it dried, that really wasn’t a problem. This time I used Tamiya Acrylic Paint Thinner X-20A to clean the airbrush and it worked a lot better, so if you are using these paints, acrylic thinners are the way to go for cleanup. I was very impressed by these paints and will certainly be using them again on my future projects.
MORE CONSTRUCTION The Flanker family have what I consider to be one of the more complicated undercarriage setups. The kit plastic represents this complexity well and consists of a lot of parts, which fit together perfectly and join up where they’re supposed to (not always the case with other manufacturers’ kits of the Flanker family). The metal inserts should provide sufficient strength; if not, though, I did have the SAC set to fall back on, which arrived, rather typically, just after I had fitted the kit parts. And so, with the main and nose
gear legs fitted (doors left off at this point), some pitots (the large ones on the fuselage side, behind the cockpit, are a butt fit with no locating aids at all. Seriously?), antennas fitted, and a tiny spray of the “Eggplant” to touch up (another plus for this paint: a touch of glue on the fuselage to locate the pitots didn’t result in any paint wrinkles. Very nice!), I moved on to decals. The tails and wing control surfaces were still left off at this stage (test fitting showed that the vertical tails would just snap on later, apparently not even needing glue!).
TRIAL BY DECALS The decals, hum… I have been suffering from a bit of decal silvering recently, so I was tempted to gloss the whole thing first because, while the MPR finish appeared smooth, I didn’t know if it was smooth enough. So I thought I would do decals on some of the ordnance to get a feel for them, and then try a few on the airframe to see how they behaved on the paint. I started with the weapon markings. I don’t know who printed them, but the good news is that they are very strong and conform really well. It’s just as well that they’re strong, though, as I struggled with them; if they had been more fragile, they would have been in the bin. I don’t think I’ve sworn at a set of markings so much since I first encountered Propagteam,
which have, or certainly had, a reputation for sticking where they are first put and then not moving. These didn’t do that but they were very frustrating: they would be sliding nicely over the (still wet) backing paper and then they would just stop moving and be really difficult to get going again. Then, when I’d get an image over the edge of the paper, they would either leap back onto the paper or wrap themselves around the underside. And they were pretty keen on folding over on themselves too. This was all quite trying, but they ARE strong and that was a good thing, and they do conform well, which was also a bonus. I now tried a couple of the airframe markings and they seemed to go down without silvering, so I took a chance and just applied them without a gloss coat, while wondering if I was going to regret that decision. I’ve said before (Every review, I think - Ed) that decals are my favourite part of the process and this was no different, partly because the airframe decals (mostly) behaved themselves (so there was little cause for swearing); and partly because, as they went
on, the model looked better and better. They broke up the rather dominant eggplant grey, added a splash of colour, and made me feel like we were on the home straight. To be honest, there was still quite a way to go, but it felt like progress.
I let the decals settle overnight before fitting the wingtip ECM pods and leading edge flaps, applying a coat of satin varnish (very little silvering, fortunately), and adding the undercarriage doors (nice fit, positive locators, actuators that join where they’re supposed to), and it was time to think about what to hang under the thing.
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“ABOUT 640 PARTS ARE DEDICATED TO THINGS UNDER WINGS” THINGS UNDER WINGS I mentioned earlier that I had tested some of the decals on the ordnance; I had been building these as a background task when I couldn’t bring myself to do anything major on the airframe. I also mentioned in the intro just how extensive this aspect of the kit is. About 640 parts are dedicated to things under wings, and there was no way I was going to make everything, so it was a matter of choosing a load-out and making those items. But what to use? There are the usual air-to-air missiles: R-27s (both radar and EO, four of each), R-27ERs (both radar and EO, four of each), R-73s (four), and R-77s (four), so that’s already more stuff than could be fitted on the available hard points, and that’s only two sprues! There are a couple of huge fuel tanks and a selection of other missiles, some of which I had to look up. There are a pair each of Kh-59, Kh-31, Kh-58, and R-172s, and very interesting they are too; the Kh-31 in particular looks like a little Bloodhound (I would love one of those in 1/48, modern injection-moulded please, if anyone is listening), and the anti-AWACS R-172 is very striking. Should you want to move mud,
there are four more identical sprues, each containing FAB-100 (six), FAB-250 (three), and FAB-500 (one) bombs, plus an MER (I’m going to stick with Multiple Ejector Rack, though I know the Russians call it something different), and parts for a KMGU-2 munitions dispenser. The MER alone consists of 30 parts,
and as mentioned, there are four of them. I didn’t make them all, just one to show what they look like. There are also some smaller sprues which provide two of each of the EO, laser guided versions of the KAB-1500 (a BIG bomb), and two APK-9s, which are data link pods, apparently, though the instructions
don’t point that out. You may need to fit one of these, depending on the weapons load you go with. So I made up lots and lots of missiles and bombs (and still had many sprues left over), but one slight moan about the ordnance: again it seems like the weapons were done by those two completely
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different teams. On the large guided bombs and the R-172s, the locating method is stupidly delicate, with a tiny groove on the weapon body and a tiny “v” tab on the control surface parts; you might as well butt-fit them. On the (HUGE!) tanks and the other missiles, there’s a good old-fashioned slot in the body and BIG tabs to fit into them. Much easier, more positive, and visually you can’t tell the difference. Campaign for Real And Large Locators (CRALL)! (I think you should lay off the beer while you’re modelling - Ed). But what to actually use? The KAB-1500s were interesting (I’ve not come across them before), and I was also very tempted by the thought of an anti-AWACS mission with those R-172s, but in the end, I decided to go with a deep strike package: the pair of Kh-59s as the primary long range weapon (inner wing pylons), the Kh-31s as radar suppression (on the intake pylons), a couple of R-27ERs for BVR targets (middle wing pylons), and a pair of R-73s (outer wing pylons), in case it gets personal. Add a big tank on the forward centreline point with the ECM pods on the wingtips, and there are a lot of pylons to fill! I painted up a pair each of the standard and extended range R-27s, first priming them with another Mr. Paint product, MRP-84 Fine Surface Primer (Grey). I usually use XtraColor XDBB Lt. Gull Grey Matt Base under my gloss white finishes, but having been provided with the MRP I thought that I should give it a go. Again, very impressed, sprays well, dries very smooth and very quickly, and took the white enamel, thinned with lacquer thinners, without complaint. It was while I was adding the clear seeker heads that I noticed
a slight problem: four R-27 IR heads are supplied on the clear sprue, enough for the one sprue of the air-to-air stuff, but not enough to build them all!
THE FINAL BITS With the chosen load built up, painted and attached to pylons, it was time to get the last bits in place. I fitted the weapons load while I could still rest the airframe on its back (so the glue could do its stuff with gravity working for me). While this set I added the refuelling probe and cover, the exhausts, the gun (with the tip drilled out slightly), and a few more pitots under the cockpit. The kit probe is designed to be in the deployed position, but without modification won’t sit flush, so I modified it with my snippers, drilled the
hole a bit bigger, and stuck it in. Then it was finally time to add the vertical tails – would they still just snap into place? Yes, they would! A very impressive bit of engineering, and I do like the way it incorporates the underside. A tiny comment on the aerial fit on the top of the tails, with particular reference to the odd shaped anchorlike affair you see on these things: I have seen pictures with the fit provided (one on top each side), but also some with an extra one on the starboard side, under the two bullet fairings. I went with just the one each side but used the Eduard etch parts in preference to the kit plastic as they were a better shape. And with the horizontal tails, trailing edge flaps, and canards
fitted, it was a matter of attaching the ADC sensor in front of the cockpit (again, some pictures show the fit here varies too). Before removing the cockpit masks, I fitted the nose pitot and a couple of tiny little pitch vanes, and it’s done.
CONCLUSION
The Hobby Boss Su-34 is expensive, and yes, there have been mutterings online about the nose shape, but I think these are greatly exaggerated. The completed Su-34 Fullback is big, beautiful, fits together well, and I had a lot of fun building it. And as a small bonus, I have lots of spare weapons for future projects. What more can you ask for from a model? My thanks to Creative models for supplying the review samples, which can be purchased from their website at www.creativemmodels.co.uk
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B-24 LIBERATOR
BY VRIES BYSACCO ROMANDE SCHILHART
Wagon with
WINGS
ITEMS USED
KIT: HASEGAWA CONSOLIDATED LIBERATOR B-24J (E 29)
AFTERMARKET ITEMS USED:
• E DUARD BIG ED SET, 7247 • T RUE DETAILS WHEELS, 7216 •C MK BOMB BAY, 7235 • CMK CONTROL SURFACES, 7232 • SCALE AIRCRAFT CONVERSIONS, 72009 • S KY MODELS DECAL SHEET ,72-054
Hasegawa 1/72 B-24 Liberator by Roman Schilhart Finished Model Photographs by Wolfgang Rabel
T
o my eyes, the Liberator isn’t the most elegant design of the American aircraft industry; it rather reminds me of a train wagon with wings! Despite its aesthetic shortcomings, however, the Liberator was one of the most numerous USAF bombers in WWII service, with over 18.000 examples built. It saw action over Europe, as well as in the Pacific, and some saw service with the Royal Air Force in Europe, and in the Far East as well. In 2007, Hasegawa released a new-mould Liberator, in a number of versions and boxings, which was a welcome replacement for the venerable Airfix and Academy kits. The Hasegawa kit of the B-24J is the most expensive model I have ever purchased, with a price tag of 54 euros. Given its wingspan, it is also my most ambitious build to date (for now). Prior to starting, I amassed numerous aftermarket
sets from Eduard, CMK, and True Details, as well as a metal undercarriage from Scale Aircraft Conversions, and decals from Sky Models of Italy. However, not all of the add-on parts proved useful, as we shall see later. Initially, I wanted to represent one of the Liberators from the 15th Air Force that saw action over my home country, Austria, in the closing months of the war. However, I was unable to source decals and detailed information within the time I had for this build. So instead, I settled for a rather attractively painted B-24J, named “The Shack”, of 458th Bomb Group, 754th Squadron, based in England in 1944-45.
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Scale Aircraft Conversions’ metal cockpit floor, dressed up with Eduard photoetch parts from the Interior Set. Here is how it all started, with lots of aftermarket items, motivation, and optimism! I used aftermarket parts from Eduard, CMK, True Details, and Scale Aircraft Conversions, and decals from Sky Models Italy, as well as Squadron Signal’s B-24 In Action as a reference.
THE INTERIOR I started with the cockpit, building up the interior of the fuselage halves with parts from Eduard’s Interior Set (73318), from the Big Ed package. This set contains some nice pre-painted pieces, but I will say that not many of the details will be visible in the end. The aftermarket set from Scale Aircraft Conversions not only provides the metal undercarriage, but also a metal part for the cockpit floor. This adds some weight to the nose section – vital to prevent a tail-sitter! Even so, I was still worried about not having the required nose weight, so I filled up every available space in the front section with various kinds of weights, such as lead shot and washers. I took my time to detail the waist gun positions with photoetch parts, because this area can be easily seen if you display the
Detailling the waist guns positions with Eduard photo-etch parts. Note the photo-etch ammunition boxes. Ammunition belts have not been installed at this stage.
gunner’s windows in an open position. Eduard does provide photo-etch ammunition belts, but I found them to be a little stiff and stubborn to fix. I replaced them with more natural-looking rubber replacements from Aires. The machine guns that protrude from the side windows were left
they reduce the stability of the whole build by adding weight aft of the center of gravity. After some contemplation, I decided to go with the plastic kit parts for the main assembly of the bomb bay, while using CMK’s more
“SCALE AIRCRAFT CONVERSIONS NOT ONLY PROVIDES THE METAL UNDERCARRIAGE, BUT ALSO A METAL PART FOR THE COCKPIT FLOOR” off for now, to be added later. The CMK Resin Bomb Bay Set was only partially useful. I couldn’t make out a significant difference from the original kit parts, and frankly, they are not much better than the kit parts, and involve a lot of extra work. Furthermore,
detailed sidewalls and bomb rack ladders. The rack ladders were a bit too short, so I added some plastic strip to the ends. I also used CMK’s bomb bay doors, which have better scale thickness than the kit parts. These would be attached later in the build, but the bombs were painted and added to the racks at this stage. The front wheel must be fixed in position before closing the
fuselage halves. The True Details resin front wheel I used comes with the mudguard cast in place, but so does the metal leg from Scale Aircraft Conversions. I preferred the SAC leg for its strength and for the extra weight that I needed in the nose. I scrapped the resin mudguard from the wheel, and I didn’t worry about losing the wheel’s profile, as it will be covered by the metal leg’s mudguard. I added a fake bulkhead to the top and rear of the forward wheel bay, making room for even more ballast to be inserted, as I realized that there would be little chance of doing so once the fuselage was closed. In total, I added over 94 grams of nose weight to the front section. It’s a good idea to insert the belly turret before mating up the fuselage halves, as it might be tricky to fit later in the build. Given Hasegawa’s high quality engineering, no problems were encountered with the main
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One of the few parts from CMK’s bomb bay set that actually proved useful: the sidewalls, seen here in comparison with the original kit parts. Original period photograph of “The Shack”.
Interior work completed and bombs in place. A lot of weight will have to be added in every available space to avoid a tail-sitter.
assembly, except for a small gap just behind the nose wheel, which was filled with some stretched sprue and then sanded smooth. The only problematic area I came across was the clear nose section, which consists of two side parts and the top roof. Unfortunately, the fit in this area was quite poor and involved lots of sanding to produce a good finish. Surprisingly, the half-shell clear part of the lower nose caused no issues at all, and fitted perfectly. The original aircraft had additional armour panels on each cockpit side, partially obscuring the nose art on the left. I cut small pieces from plastic acetate to represent this armour and added some rivets along the edge, before attaching them in place. I now made a mistake by blindly following Hasegawa’s instructions, and fixed the wrong side windows. My references show
Pilot’s office with pre-painted photo-etch items by Eduard.
I should have used the bulged ones, instead of the plain ones suggested by Hasegawa. This goes to show you should always double check the instructions, even from manufacturers with big reputations!
WING ASSEMBLY Eduard’s Exterior Set (72492) is included in the Big Ed package, and it has photo-etch parts to beef up the wheel wells and landing gear. To add stability and for easier handling during assembly, my plan was to strengthen the wheel bay roof part with plastic sheet. Unfortunately, I found myself unable to glue the brass cross-braces in place – they always slipped out of the shallow depression, either tilting away laterally or on their longitudinal axis. In a last futile attempt, I tried to glue thin stretched sprue lines along the grooves to stabilize the
attachments, but instead made more of a horrible mess with Cyanoacrylate. In the end, I had to discard the photo-etch pieces in favour of the original kit parts. To be honest, they don’t look bad either, and because they are not the main focus points of my model, I am more than happy with this compromise. If you want to play it safe, the Scale Aircraft Conversion metal legs are a good investment. The parts are flawlessly cast and fit into their respective slots without any modification. I didn’t even paint them; I just added an artist’s oil wash and some brake lines from stretched sprue. Eduard’s Exterior Set does include these brake lines, but they are flat and difficult to drape realistically around the gear leg. After painting and attaching the photo-etch gear doors, I could
do a dry run to see if I could attach the wings to the fuselage after painting. This makes sense when working on bigger models, as it makes for easier handling. The test fit revealed a small gap on the wing/fuselage joint, which was easily resolved by sanding down a small amount from the upper end of the wing spar with a needle file. Next, the Pratt & Whitney radial engines were detailed with ignition wires, then painted dark steel, but as they can hardly be seen on the finished model, it’s probably not worth spending too much time in this area.
INTO THE PAINT SHOP
A fake bulkhead was added to the nose wheel section to make more room for adding weight.
Fit issues with the wings were resolved by reducing the upper ends of the wing spars.
I accidentally splashed some lacquer on the surface, which ate through the paint right into the plastic, and involved more sanding sessions to solve the problem.
Model primed and painted Tamiya TS-14 Gloss Black, ready for the application of Alclad II metallic lacquers.
Now the model was ready for the first coat of primer. I use Tamiya Grey Surface Primer from the rattle can for larger areas, whereas for finer work the paint is decanted into my airbrush. It’s common for me to find irregularities on
Painting the code letter “E”, using paper masks.
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“THE HASEGAWA KIT IS A MODERN, STATE-OF-THE-ART TOOLING”
the surface after the first coat, such as dust, hair, or scratches, especially where I have filled and sanded parts to blend them in. I started with 600-grit sandpaper, moving progressively on to finer grades, working slowly and frequently, and checking the surface under a strong light. I removed any dust that had settled into the recessed panel lines with a brush, and I was ready to start painting. I started with the olive drab anti-glare panel, which, once dry, was given a coat of Matt Cote before being masked off. I also prepared the tail fins, which were airbrushed red and white on the outer sides. I opted
to paint the code letter ”E” using a mask cut from Post-It notes, since the paint on the decal sheet was a bit on the bright side and I was afraid the colour would not match the paint I was using. Now the time came to add the metallic paint. For natural metal aircraft, I prefer Alclad II lacquers. This paint requires a gloss black undercoat to give the colour enough depth; I used Tamiya’s TS-14 Gloss Black because it’s tough and fast drying. While the larger areas were sprayed straight from the can, I decanted some paint and airbrushed
it into the harder-to-reach areas. This surface preparation was the most time-consuming process in this build, involving numerous cycles of sanding and priming until I achieved an acceptable result. Despite my best efforts, I can always find another tiny hair, a speckle of dust, or a minor scratch, making perfection almost impossible. Therefore, I always prioritize the focal areas that will reflect the light and reveal any blemishes, such as the upper sides of the fuselage and wings.
I started with a basecoat of Polished Aluminium. I found that a misty application works better than spraying in the direction of the airflow, which leaves visible faint streaks. Alclad II paints are touch-dry after a few minutes. They are also pretty tough and do not pull up with Tamiya masking
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Breaking up the contrast of the US stars by misting highly diluted grey over the white areas. tape. They do, however, wear off on areas frequently handled, such as the wing leading edges, so be careful when handling the model from now on! Some wing panels were outlined with masking tape and airbrushed in various shades of aluminium: dark, airframe, and white, in order. Of course, this did not all go without troubles, as I accidentally splashed some lacquer on the surface, which ate its way through the basecoat and right into the plastic, leaving a nasty burn mark. Lots of time-consuming repair work was necessary to make up for this mistake. Once all the aluminium colours had been applied, the model was given an overall coat of Alclad Gloss as a protective layer.
DECALS Next came the markings. I used Italian company Sky Models’ decals “B-24 Liberators” (72054), which did a good enough job. One notable feature of “The Shack” is its greyed-out national markings (I suppose this was done to avoid attraction by enemy gunners). I carefully masked the blue areas with low-tack tape and sprayed the remaining white areas in grey. In order to keep control of the grade of covering, this application was done in several highly diluted layers. It took me several attempts (and decals) to get this right. (Now you can use the greyed-out stars and bars from Funkdekals, reviewed last month. Ed.) Once the grey paint had dried, I sprayed Gloss Cote on the decal sheet to fix the paint. This is
Post-shading the panel lines with Gunze/Sangyo H95 Smoke.
important, because if you don’t do this, the paint might flake off the decal once in contact with water (ask me how I know). With the decals applied and sealed with another layer of Alclad Gloss Cote, the model was ready for the final, most delicate stage – the weathering process.
WEATHERING I usually weather my models with artist’s oils, but that technique does not work so well on metal surfaces. Personally, I find it more effective to weather the model entirely with the airbrush. Panels were picked out by spraying Gunze H95 Smoke along the lines, with the aid of Post-Its, which adhere well to the surface and are easily adjustable. Of course, they work best on flat surfaces, so you will have to fall back on masking tape for the fuselage contours. The Liberator is a big bird and has plenty of panels, so I slowly worked my way over the fuselage and wings in a logical manner. This final stage can be nervewracking sometimes, because
True Details’ resin front wheel with the mudguard scraped away.
there’s still a good chance to mess up the metallic finish if you make a mistake. Unfortunately, you can’t do any simple corrections on Alclad surfaces; you will have to go back to the primer stage and reapply the metal finish. If you work patiently and carefully, though, you will be rewarded with a beautifully weathered and patchy surface, just like on a real combat aircraft. I now airbrushed light stains around the engines and landing gear by adding a drop of black and dark brown to the smoke. The vertical fins, already painted, received a wash with artist’s oils and a Matt Coat. Once dry, they were fixed to the model, as were the True Details resin wheels, which also received an oil wash. The tyres were dusted with Tamiya pigments.
FINAL BITS AND PIECES I now carefully removed the paint masks, which always feels like the ”moment of truth”, when you will see if all your time and effort has paid off. To eliminate paint residue on the windows, I always run a sharp toothpick along the inner side of the frames, scraping away any rough areas. To make the clear parts look even more transparent, I paint-brushed Alclad Gloss Cote on all windows and turret glazings. I now added all the parts that protrude from the model (which would have been in danger of being broken or bent during assembly and painting), such as various antennae, the propellers, and the turrets (which simply click into place without the need for any glue). At this final stage, I also added the side guns to their mountings with a tweezer, and connected them to the rubber ammunition belts I had installed earlier. I also opened up the crew entry hatch in the back, which comes as a photo-etch item in
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Eduard’s Interior Set. It was at this late stage, with my mind maybe already set on other things, that I made my final mistake by fixing the door outwards, when it should open inwards!
CONCLUSION
The Hasegawa kit is a modern, state-of-the-art tooling, as you would expect from this manufacturer. In my view, it justifies its rather high price tag. The fit is generally very good, except for the three-part nose section (it could well be that I messed up something here, as none of the other build reports I have read mentions this problem). The kit provides sufficient details to be built straight from the box, but Scale Aircraft Conversions landing gear is a good investment, given the amount of weight you will be adding to the model. True Details wheels are an improvement over the kit parts, having a nice profile and that bulged, ”heavy” look. I did find that some of the aftermarket sets I had purchased
added very little improvement to the model. For example, although I had bought an Eduard photo-etch wheel bay, I didn’t use it, nor did I use the CMK resin bomb bay set, which is only a little better than the plastic parts from the kit. This set also involves a lot of work and actually reduces the stability of the interior assembly. If I ever build another Hasegawa Liberator, I will just add the metal landing gear
and the aftermarket wheels. This B-24 fought me for over 18 months. Most of the time and work went into the surface preparation and that metallic paint job; several times, I put the kit away, simply because I needed a break from sanding and polishing. Even if the model is not perfect, I’m quite happy with how it turned out and it has now got place of honor as the largest model in my collection.
Scale Aircraft Conversions gear legs add stability to the model. Brake lines added from stretched sprue.
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HENSCHEL HS123
BY DE VRIES BYSACCO JAY BLAKEMORE
Eins Zwei
DREI Gaspatch Model’s New 1/48 Henschel Hs123 by Jay Blakemore
THE BIRTH OF THE DIVE BOMBER
W
hen Ernst Udet, the World War 1 fighter ace turned international stunt pilot, returned home from a tour of the United States, extolling the dive-bombing abilities of the new Curtiss Hawk II, he was duly offered funds by the newly established Reichluftfahrtministerium (German Air Ministry - RLM) to
purchase two examples for use in aerobatic display. This not only gave German designers the opportunity to study state-of-theart American technology, it also allowed Hermann Göring, head of the fledgeling Luftwaffe, to entice the fighter ace and national hero back into military service. In February 1934, the dual-role capability of the Curtiss machines prompted the technical office of the RLM to issue specifications
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for a single-seat aircraft to fulfil the joint role of fighter and divebomber. The winning design, in the shape of the Hs123, made its public debut in May the following year, flown by Udet himself. Although the chubby sesquiplane appeared somewhat anachronistic, when compared to other aircraft designs then being proposed (not least of all the monoplane dive-
bomber designed by Junkers), the RLM ordered the Henschel. Intended purely as an interim aircraft to bridge the capability gap until the more advanced designs were available for production, in 1936 a small batch of preproduction, Hs123A-0 standard aircraft were produced for service evaluation by the Luftwaffe. These were soon joined by slightly modified A-1 production-standard examples. The type entered official Luftwaffe service with StG 162 in the autumn of 1936, though its career as a dive-bomber seemed destined to be short-lived with the arrival the following year of the first examples of the Junkers Ju87. It was as part of the Condor Legion, during the Spanish Civil
“THIS KIT IS AS NEAR TO PERFECTION AS A MODEL CAN GET STRAIGHT OUT OF THE BOX” War (July 1936 to April 1939), that the Henschel found its niche. A handful of Hs123s was initially deployed in-theatre as tactical bombers, though, unsurprisingly, their short range and small bomb load proved to be insufficient for the task. They were employed instead in the ground support role, where their ability to accurately hit pinpoint targets in a divebombing attack made them perfect for army cooperation. In Spain, however, they were soon replaced by the faster and more capable monoplane designs, and with the arrival in theatre
of three new Ju87s, the writing finally appeared to be on the wall for Henschel’s tubby sesquiplane. But upon the outbreak of war in Europe and the Wehrmacht’s march into Poland, the 39 remaining Hs123s continued in their role of “flying artillery”, in support of the advancing army. They proved themselves once again to be devastatingly effective, especially when it was discovered by the pilots flying them that, by dropping the engine revolutions during an attack, a howling and rattling noise could be created that terrified the enemy below, causing
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them to abandon their positions before a bomb was dropped. By the beginning of Operation Barbarossa – the invasion of Russia in June 1941 – only 22 Hs123s remained in service with II.(schl)/LG2, but they had lost none of their effectiveness. Their ability to operate from rough, unprepared airstrips, and absorb copious amounts of punishment
made them ideal attack aircraft to support the armies now advancing across the great open steppes. As winter tightened its grip on the country, so too did the pilots in their open cockpits suffer, but this did not stop them from supporting the troops during the battle for Moscow. By January 1942, the remaining Henschels were used to form the nucleus of a
new, dedicated army support wing, Schlachtgeschwader 1 (SchlG 1). They went on to support operations in the Crimea, the Second Battle of Kharkov, and the attack on Stalingrad. The subsequently high attrition rates meant that additional airframes were desperately sought from amongst training and support units, and spares were salvaged from dumps. No greater tribute could have been paid to the effectiveness of the Henschel
than the request by Generaloberst Wolfram von Richthofen, (Commander-in-Chief of Luftflotte 4 and brother to the legendary WWI ace, Manfred), in January 1943, to reinstate production of the Hs123. Unfortunately, Henschel had long since dismantled all the jigs and tools necessary for production. The end finally came in the spring of 1944, when 7/SG1 exchanged its remaining Henschels for Ju87s, the type that was to have originally replaced it back in 1937.
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PARROTS AND PLASTIC PERFECTION If, like me, you have ever pondered upon the relevance of the cigarsmoking parrot logo that graces all of GasPatch Models’ products, then you will be interested to know that it is simply a reminder to us all that modelling is supposed
to be a fun pastime. And the company name? It was actually inspired by the yellow-coloured, chemically impregnated, square ”gas patches” pasted onto the wings or fuselages of RAF aircraft during WWII, which were supposed to detect the presence of toxic gas. And what of the latest release from the Greek-based manufacturer? I have to admit to have been awaiting the arrival of this kit with growing excitement over the past couple of years; viewing the early test-shots of the model at Telford 2016, and chatting to the GasPatch crew, only increased my determination to acquire one. I have to say that the wait was worth it. The Hs123 kit comes packaged in a sturdy and colourfully illustrated top-opening box, and exudes quality from the outset. Contained within the box are six grey sprues (each individually packed within cellophane bags), a separately bagged clear plastic sprue, an etched fret, a tiny windscreen masking sheet, a gloriously printed Cartograf decal sheet, and even a cardboard jig for setting the angle of the undercarriage. The glossy A5 instruction booklet is in colour throughout and features wonderful artwork and 3D imaging. It is well laid out and easy to follow, with painting guides for each section. The last pages feature five colour profiles for the schemes optioned on the decal sheet. Of these, three are Russian Front aircraft featuring the standard two-tone dark green
splinter camouflage, with yellow identification panels and bands; the fourth features temporary white winter camouflage; the final option, and the aircraft that was of particular interest to me, features the early-war, three-tone splinter camouflage. Official RLM designations are given for the camouflage colours, but no specific paint brands are recommended. Featuring a subtle matt texture, the parts themselves are wonderfully moulded and boast sharply engraved panel lines as well as restrained, yet perfectly rendered, raised details. The engine too is faithfully represented, and there is even a tiny BMW decal to add once the painting is done. There is a choice of three undercarriage styles – with or without spats, or with half-spats – and a choice of lower wings to suit. Wheels are also provided in two versions, both styles featuring weighted tyres. Amongst an assortment of small details, the photo-etch (PE) brass fret features seat-harness, levers, and actuating arms for the separately moulded rudder, trimtab, ailerons, and flaps, and even shackle-rings for the underside of the wings. As far as the ordinance is concerned, four wing-mounted bombs are provided, plus a multi-part, centreline fuel tank. The numerous small, and delicate, parts are flash-free with minimal seam lines, though most have multiple, chunky spruegates that I guessed would make them difficult to remove without damage. This indeed proved to be the case with the cockpit-mounted levers, which come complete with twisting lengths of associated
cable. I found it necessary to replace the moulded cable lengths with stretched sprue, having broken them all during removal.
INTERIOR DESIGN The cockpit is more than adequately kitted-out straight from the box. Everything is catered for: detailed bulkheads; multiple plastic and etched levers; a twopiece control panel, featuring raised bezels and decals for the clock-faces; an eleven-piece seat, complete with five-piece etched harness; detailed side consoles; foot pedals with etched straps; an air bottle and pipes; and even a separately moulded flare pistol to attach to the cockpit wall. Needless to say, I did not feel the need to add anything extra, with the exception of a plastic card firewall just forward of the foot pedals. This was to hide the featureless interior in front of the open cockpit, that I feared might just be visible beyond the open cockpit hatch. I painted the cockpit in my usual fashion, airbrushing Colourcoats enamels over an Alclad metallic lacquer base coat. I then used a ”washing” technique to remove areas of the enamel and so reveal the metallic coat beneath. This gave the RLM02 interior a suitably weathered appearance, which was further enhanced by the use of dark enamel washes and dry-brushed highlights. With the individual levers picked out in red, yellow, and white, as per the detailed instructions, and the air bottle finished in a bright blue, the cockpit looked impressive. Despite it feeling like a crime to
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remove entirely without damage – and each pair of plastic rods had two such attachment points.
SPLINTERS AND SHADOWS
enclose the wonderfully furnished cockpit within the confines of the fuselage, I consoled myself with the thought that much of the detail would remain visible, if I later opted to pose the separately moulded entry hatches in the open position. The tubby fuselage effortlessly closed around the cockpit, and the rest of the airframe quickly took shape. The three curved upper-nose panels feature wonderful louvre and air scoop details, and these encase separately moulded machine gun barrels. The stubby lower plane and tailplanes were added (without their thin supporting struts at this stage), as were the angled inter-plane struts. These were cemented to the lower wings and would be painted in-situ. The chunky undercarriage was also added, setting the angle with the previously mentioned cardboard jig. Separate flaps are included, which feature their associated warning tabs, which protrude from the upper surface of the lower plane when the flaps are deployed. These items too were cemented in place in the open position, to be painted in-situ. Everything fit perfectly, though a smear of filler was required to disguise the
join-lines of the lower plane at the wing roots and across the belly. I had already decided to paint the model in five sub-assemblies: the airframe, minus the engine and forward ring-cowl, but complete with the undercarriage; lower plane and inter-plane struts as described above; the engine; the partially assembled ring-cowl; and the main plane complete with ailerons. Painting began with a dark brown base coat (shadow coat) as per my usual practice. This revealed no problems that needed attention before painting proper could commence.
ENGINE AND COWLING The multi-piece cowling ring is masterfully moulded in individual, curved sections that include nine cowling panels and three mounting frames. The breakdown of parts matches that of the real aircraft, giving the modeller the option to display the engine in its entirety if so desired. However, if one wishes to paint the engine separately, and fit the cowling afterwards, the assembly must be done in sections, as the fully assembled cowling wraps tightly around the engine, making it impossible
to remove once fully assembled. The engine gives the assembled cowling its structural integrity. To prevent any mix-up of the individual and similarly proportioned cowling sections, I removed each from the sprue and cemented them directly to their corresponding section, until I had assembled the lower half of the cowling ring, as per the instructions. The sections fitted together positively to create a perfect semi-circle, into which the engine slotted comfortably. I then left the half-cowling in place around the engine so that it would set correctly. The remainder of the cowling was assembled into two more upper sections. The engine as supplied is perfectly adequate, but benefitted from some minor additions: spark plug leads made from stretched sprue, and valve tappet rods cut from short lengths of Albion Alloys metal rod. The latter items would have been entirely acceptable as provided by GasPatch, but for the thick sprue-gates with which these delicate items were attached to their sprues. These proved impossible to
Exterior painting commenced with the undersides, though before the light blue (RLM65) was applied, the upper surfaces were roughly masked off with torn paper strips, to keep overspray to a minimum and to preserve the dark shadow coat. The semi-complete airframe, the upper plane, the lower cowling, and several small components, including the steps and the tailwheel, were given a coat of RLM65, though hints of the shadow coat were preserved along the panel lines to give an instant weathered appearance. When dry, the undersides were masked, and thin UPC tape used to create a hard demarcation line between the upper and lower camouflage colours. My paints of choice came from the Colourcoats range, produced and distributed by UK-based Sovereign Hobbies. This family concern produces a large range of authentic military colour enamel paints, which can be bought from their website. The vast range includes a selection of pre-boxed colour sets. The Colourcoats set appropriate to my chosen scheme contained the three upper surface colours of RLM 61 Dunkelbraun, RLM 62 Grun, and RLM 63 Hellgrau. The first colour is a dark
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“I WOULD HIGHLY RECOMMEND THAT YOU AVAIL YOURSELVES OF ONE BEFORE THEY SELL OUT. MY THANKS TO THE GUYS AT GASPATCH”
chocolate-brown, very similar in shade to the dark shadow coat I had applied to the airframe. I therefore began the camouflaging process by subtly darkening the panel lines in those areas to be painted RLM 61, using black enamel. Over this, I applied a free-hand pattern of the dark chocolatebrown, allowing hints of the black to remain. Once the RLM 61 had dried, I masked those areas that were to be bordered by RLM 62. GasPatch Models had been kind enough to send me a sample of their masking set (17-48119), containing vinyl masks for the complex, threecolour splinter pattern that adorned all early-war Luftwaffe aircraft. The masks, however, proved to be rather thick and inflexible, and although I used some of the pre-cut masks, I chose to supplement these with my own masks made from tape, which clung more readily to the curved sections of the fuselage and wings. The GasPatch sheet did, however, prove to be a useful cutting guide during this process. With the masks in place, the green areas were painted, the colour being built up gradually, using the same method as described above. The RLM 62 Hellgrau proved to be an almost exact match for the interior RLM 02. Although this was
undoubtedly correct, I diluted the colour slightly by adding a pale grey, to create a greater contrast between the two camouflage greens. Once the splinter camouflage was finished to my satisfaction, I masked a ”V” shape on the upper plane, as well as a strip about the fuselage, and painted the white tactical markings. Exterior weathering was kept to a minimum and included a dark enamel application to emphasise the various hatches, louvres, and filler caps that dotted the airframe, whilst highlights were applied using lighter shades of the camouflage colours.
BOMBING ALONG As mentioned above, the large decal sheet is produced by Cartograf, and as you’d expect, it is perfectly printed. The twenty-four individual decals settled adequately onto the model’s surface with an application of the Micro Set and Micro Sol softening solution. Once dry, these too were subtly weathered using dry-brushing methods. Following a coat of satin varnish, construction was completed with the addition of the central main plane struts, fuel tank, steps, tailwheel, and
tailplane supports. The individual cowling sections were attached to the engine and the exhausts added to the nose section. With the main plane in place, a final coat of eggshell varnish was applied – a 50/50 mix of satin and matt varnish – and when everything had been allowed to dry for a couple of days, the propeller was pressed home, the windscreen masking removed, and my Hs123 was finished.
CONCLUSIONS
I have noticed, since finishing this splendid kit, that the aftermarket accessory boys have been quick off the mark and have already released etched metal additions for GasPatch’s Henschel. Well, I can honestly say that you may as well save your money, as you won’t be needing them. This kit is as near to perfection as a model can get straight out of the box, and I would highly recommend that you avail yourselves of one before they sell out. My thanks to the guys at GasPatch for sending me the kit and the mask set. GasPatch models and accessories can be found on their website: www.gaspatchmodels.com
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1/32
F2.B BRISTOL FIGHTER
BY DE VRIES BYSACCO GUY GOODWIN
Far East
BRISFIT
Wingnut Wings 1/32 Post War F2.B Bristol Fighter by Guy Goodwin
T
he original Bristol Fighter was one of Wingnut Wing’s first kits, so you might expect it to be a little cruder than the latest offerings. Not in the least; in fact, I would rate it as the best Wingnut kit I have made to date. It’s quite a complex beast, and you would think it must be quite a demanding kit to produce. But once again, Wingnut have somehow made it into a sublime model that is straightforward in construction. Although this postwar offering is a recent release, it uses the original kit as its base. The box is absolutely packed with perfectly formed parts,
excellent colour instructions, and extensive Cartograf decals. And as this is the post-war version, it has some additional options – exhausts, radiator, etc. Oh, what a modelling treat - it doesn’t get any better than this!
HISTORY The Bristol Fighter F2.A was initially viewed by RFC aircrews as a ”standard” two-seater (i.e. a bomber, lacking in manoeuvrability), and was at first operated in that role. As a result, the first offensive action that involved the F.2A Fighter
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did not end well. The patrol was deliberately timed to coincide with the British offensive at Arras, crossed the front lines on 5 April 1917. This excursion of six aircraft from No. 48 Squadron RFC, led by Victoria Cross recipient William Leefe Robinson (of shooting-downthe-first -German-airship-overLondon fame), ran into five Albatros D.IIIs from Jasta 11 led by Manfred von Richthofen. Four out of the six F.2As were shot down – including that of Robinson, who was captured – and a fifth was badly damaged. An inauspicious beginning. Other early experiences with the F.2A Fighter contributed to doubts over its effectiveness. The month in which the type was introduced to offensive operation became known as Bloody April. Casualties
were high throughout the RFC, and initially, the Bristol fighter proved to be no exception. During this period in aviation history, contemporary two-seater aircraft were far less nimble than fighter aircraft, and many types lacked the structural strength to carry out the aggressive manoeuvres needed for dogfighting. The first “Brisfit” aircrews were accustomed to the standard doctrine of maintaining formation and using the crossfire of the observers’ guns to counter enemy fighter aircraft. Despite some rumours that the type lacked the necessary structural strength to be flown as a fighter, pilots soon realised that the Bristol Fighter was a strong and agile aircraft, capable of manoeuvring with single-seat fighters. While its fixed forward-firing machine gun could be used as the primary weapon, the observer could also use his flexible, rear-mounted gun to provide protection from attacks from the rear. Flown in this manner, the Bristol Fighter achieved a remarkable level of success, and proved to be a formidable opponent for German fighters. From May 1917 onwards, the definitive F.2B Fighter quickly replaced the earlier F.2A model. In July 1917, the War Office decided to adopt the F.2B Fighter as the equipment for all fighterreconnaissance squadrons, leading to a significant increase in production. However, despite the issuance of contracts for further large batches of aircraft, it was apparent that the rate of production could not keep up with demand for the type. Perhaps one of the bestknown flying aces to use the type was Canadian Andrew Edward McKeever, and his regular observer L.F. Powell. By the end of 1917, McKeever accumulated 30 enemy aircraft kills, while Powell achieved eight. McKeever later became a flying instructor, stationed in England, before becoming the commanding officer of No. 1 Squadron of the newly formed Royal Canadian Air Force (RCAF). He continued to use the Fighter as his personal aircraft, which
“WITH PATIENCE, YOU WILL BE REWARDED WITH A HUGELY SATISFYING BUILD AND A BEAUTIFUL END PRODUCT”
was later transferred to Canada. Following the end of the First World War, the F.2B Fighter was soon adopted by the RAF as its standard army cooperation machine. The type continued to operate in army cooperation and light bombing roles throughout the British Empire, in particular the Middle East, India, and China. In line with this role, which led to its use under high-temperature conditions, Bristol introduced models of the Fighter equipped with “tropical” radiators and other furnishings for desert equipment that could better handle operations in higher temperatures.
BUILDING As I had found my recent builds stalling a little (sometimes I seem to hit a modelling version of writer’s block), I wanted a kit that I felt really enthusiastic about, and the recent Wingnut Wings Postwar Brisfit fitted the bill. I also have a habit of rushing kits to get to the next one, but I was determined to take my time on this one and enjoy the journey. It had certainly got me fired up and, although I didn’t receive the kit for a few weeks (slight distribution issue apparently), I (almost) enjoyed the anticipation and used the time constructively, for research and for ordering the
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extras I ”needed”: HGW fabric seat belts, wicker seat from Barracuda, spark plugs from Taurus, and paint masks from Mal’s Masks. Finally, the kit arrived and as per usual, I kicked off with parts preparation – removing, cleaning up, and organising into a rough painting plan – before spraying on the primer (in this case Mr. Finisher 1500), thinned and sprayed through the airbrush. I have a rattle can version but find it not so good for smaller pieces, and prefer the more precise control afforded by an airbrush.
THE OFFICE I then tackled the cockpit, starting with the Barracuda resin seat. Apparently, there was an early batch that was a little narrow, and as a result, the kit seat cushion needs a little trimming to fit (not an
issue). There was, however, some noticeable resin flash along the open structure of the chair back, which was a shame, as it wasn’t easy to remove; the structure is finely moulded and this detracts from the otherwise ”perfect” look. And although you can only tell if you look really closely, the second seat that came with the pack was worse again, and despite my best efforts, I couldn’t remove it without damaging the wickerwork effect. To be fair to Barracuda, I contacted them via e-mail, and they very kindly sent out a perfect replacement set the next day. It’s nice to see that excellent customer service is still alive. As per my usual method, I sprayed all wood areas with a light Vallejo Sand, followed by a mid-shade overspray to feather the edges, followed by oils to capture the recesses. I then dragged
artist’s oils (ochre, sienna, etc) over the surfaces to represent the wood grain. It’s worth doing this step as early as possible, due to the drying time of the oil paints (although it can be hastened by a suitable drying agent such as Uschi van der Rosten’s Blitz Dry). The kit comes with perfectly well-represented etch seat belts, but I have a soft spot for the HGW fabric belts, which are a superb rendition of canvas straps. They really look the part, especially once suitably creased, and are highly recommended. When combined with the resin seat, it’s difficult to see how the finished effect could be bettered. The instrument panel got the wood treatment, followed by ”glass” faced instruments, which are the kit decals picked out with clear epoxy. This really looks quite effective in this scale. I also
replaced the kit cockpit pumps with real brass, although the kit parts look perfectly adequate. I always struggle to paint brass on small pieces effectively (it looks painted on and unrealistic), so why not use real brass? It’s an easy fix that, to my eye, makes a significant improvement. The internal structure was rigged as per the instructions, and this does add quite a lot of interest to the finished model. I used monofilament fishing line and fine brass tubing to represent the turnbuckles. This stage is a little time consuming, but it does look good once finished and is quite visible on the finished model. As a final touch, I usually tuck a folded-up scale map (a scaled-down image from the internet, printed on thin paper), into a recess.
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THE POWERPLANT Wingnut seem to make exceptional engines, and while the example in this kit is no different, there is (of course) always room for improvement. The one minor failing (although I’m being picky here) is the rather ”blobby” spark plugs. I opted to replace these with the beautiful (but tiny) Taurus aftermarket examples, at the same time repositioning them. The kit has them central, but strictly speaking, they should be diagonally offset from each other. I removed the injected moulded plugs, and drilled suitably sized holes to accept the new spark plugs, which slotted in nicely. A little wiring was added in the form of double looms. The ignition wires were bundled together and held in place with a couple of brass wire loops, and the ends were attached via pre-drilled points. With a few of these placed here and there, you end up with a very convincing representation of the Brisfit engine. I opted to paint mine with a mix of Alclad and Vallejo metal colours, finished with just enough subtle oil washes to give it that oily look (without overdoing it and spoiling the look of the engine). Due to the nature of the construction, you can leave the engine off the model until the very end, as it sits on extended fuselage bearers and the cowlings are supplied as separate
entities. It seems such a shame to fit these and hide all the details, so mine were left off.
COMING TOGETHER I had now reached the point for the fuselage to be closed up. Considering that this should be a fairly basic thing to do from a modelling skills viewpoint, it’s actually something that I seem to struggle with: no matter how hard I try, I always seem to end up with a slight line where the join is. It starts off being completely invisible, but later on during the painting process, it mysteriously reappears! And no amount of supergluing or sanding seems to make any difference. This is particularly difficult with a square section fuselage, where the two sides are flat. In the past, I’ve even used thin plastic sheet to stick over the whole top to hide a join. In an attempt to hopefully curtail my modelling nemesis, this time I tried chamfering the edges slightly, followed by lashings of superglue mixed with talcum powder. To my amazement, it actually worked on this occasion. So with the fuselage completed, I dropped my first clanger - literally - on to a hard surface and found I had unstuck the rear fuselage curtain and gunner’s seat, so a bit of repair work was required (but don’t worry, this kind of thing is perfectly par for the course during my builds).
COLOURING IN For my colour scheme, I trawled the internet and fell for a doped silver No. 5 Squadron version, based in India circa 1925. It reminded me of the Art Deco period and was fairly straightforward, and it was easy enough to make masks for the serial letters, numbers, and roundels. The kit has some lovely decal options, but if at all possible, I like having a unique colour scheme and it’s hard to beat the sprayed-on look that decals can’t quite replicate. Ironically, after I’d chosen the scheme, I realised that there was a photograph of the aircraft in
question on the Wingnut website and another in the instructions – not the greatest photo, but a photo nonetheless. It shows the aircraft to have the shorter exhaust option (not the long exhausts, as shown in a colour profile picture I’d found on the net), and smaller fuselage roundels with, I think, another letter “A” on the centre wing section. The full photo shows her along with her companions, “D” and “B”, in formation over India. Curiously, in this picture the aircraft has the longer exhausts and larger fuselage roundels. After a priming session, this time reverting to the Mr. Surfacer
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rattle can, I attempted the initial paintwork. To represent the overall colour I made up a custom mix of grey and silver using Tamiya paints, mixed with their lacquer thinner (although making the paint more toxic, it does spray beautifully). I think silver dope tends to appear as a solid, even finish on real aircraft. It certainly seems that way from studying period pictures; you just don’t seem to see the same highlighted ribs as on other finishes. That said, I wanted some variation (artistic licence to a degree). Therefore, I highlighted the ribs, having masked them off with pre-cut rib masking tape, followed by a little post-shading. This looked slightly overdone, but I hoped that it would mellow with the further weathering and varnishing processes. I finished by very gently sanding the top surfaces of the wings to reveal the dark primer below, highlighting a little
more detail. I also experimented with some very subtle pencil work for some of the rib detail. Then came the fun part of masking the insignia and squadron codes. This is a part that’s hugely satisfying - the process of peeling back the mask to reveal a perfectly formed roundel is one of my little pleasures (unless of course I find bleeding under the masks, when it then becomes one of my little nightmares!)
WINGS The wings on this kit are heavy pieces of solid plastic, and my initial concern was, would the undercarriage kit struts be solid enough? The lower wing on the Brisfit, unusually, “floats”, and attaches to the fuselage by struts, and I was thinking about reinforcing these. I had a dry run with the undercarriage and found the main axle would bend no matter what I did, so I decided to replace the axle and its supports with more brass tubing for rigidity. While I was at it, I thought I may as well carve off the moulded elastic bungees and replace them with modelling string to give a more three dimensional appearance. Suitably weathered, I think this adds a lot to the realism of the completed model. With the numerous little struts involved, I found this section quite tricky. I managed to snap one of the trailing legs and ended up having to pin it, since a butt join was just not strong enough. It is also quite a job to make sure everything is lined up and symmetrical, with the wings at the correct angle. Again, this is not the kit - just me and my fat fingers. So far I had managed to drop the fuselage twice (causing damage twice), snap the undercarriage leg, and cover the top wing with splashes of airbrush cleaner, causing a near total sand-back and repaint. We now moved on to my least favourite part of the build - the top wing. I again had concerns due to the weight. The top wing comes in three sections and I was considering attaching the top mid section, then
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“WITH A COUPLE OF BUILDS UNDER YOUR BELT THIS KIT IS HIGHLY RECOMMENDED” once fully dry, slide the outer wings into place. I did wonder if there would be enough “bend” to get the struts in place, or if I would damage the very tightly fitting structure. In the end, I elected to comply with the instructions and fit the wing as one piece, but I dreaded locating and gluing all those struts in one go with such a big, heavy wing. And so it came to pass as expected: I had a real problem getting the wing in place, but finally managed – after a huge modelling battle of epic proportions. If you had been in the vicinity during the battle, your vocabulary would have been expanded somewhat (I think I even made up some new
expletives). I had this heavy wing wavering about while trying to locate 12 wafer thin struts. As soon as one was in another popped out, then just as I was getting the last strut in, I knocked the top wing and they all popped out! “*€$@£#%”! To be fair, I didn’t have a jig, which I’m sure would have helped. Probably something I need to address for future builds. In retrospect, I should have fixed the centre section and sanded down the connection tab so it would slide in easily. Then I could have fitted each wing one at a time, and there would have been enough flex to pop the struts in one by one. You live and learn. I would certainly recommend
this method to anyone thinking of building the kit, unless you have a jig or some other established method of wing construction that works well for you.
RIGGING Last up came the rigging. I used my normal methods here - Bob’s Buckles for the attachment points, and brass sleeves and fine monofilament for the rigging. The attachment rings were superglued in place, after use of a fine drill to deepen the moulded points. The line is simply threaded through, using the sleeves to pull the line tight, and secured with a drop of thin super glue. I much prefer this to elastic thread as it looks better and adds real structural integrity and strength to the finished model. If you take your time over this, have a couple of good pairs of tweezers, and some visual magnification, it’s really not as hard as it looks. With just the final small details to add,
and a little weathering here and there, I could call this project done.
CONCLUSION
Despite my failings, the kit is an absolute gem. Any issues I had were totally of my own making (as usual), but the finished result will be very special if you take your time. It’s certainly not a kit to race through, but with patience, you will be rewarded with a hugely satisfying build and a beautiful end product. The complexity of the fully rigged structure creates a very interesting model, whether destined for the competition table or your back bedroom shelf. Though this is, in my view, Wingnut Wings’ best kit to date, it is probably not an ideal choice as a first biplane kit. Not because it’s particularly difficult, it’s just that there are a lot of components to juggle. With a couple of builds under your belt this kit is highly recommended.
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QUICKBUILD
P-51D MUSTANG
BY DE VRIES BYSACCO DAVID FRANCIS
P-51D
MUSTANG Airfix 1/48 P-51D Mustang by David Francis
L
ast month we previewed the new 1/48 scale Airfix P-51 Mustang, and I was very impressed with the level of detail in the cockpit and the choice of options. As an example, Airfix have supplied two different ventral fins, which is something that I have not seen in a P-51 kit before. I was so impressed with the kit that as soon as it hit the shelves in the UK, I purchased another example for my retirement stash, which is very rare for me, as I rarely build two examples of anything. In fact, this decision paid dividends later in the build, but more of that later.
CONSTRUCTION Unsurprisingly, we start with the cockpit, and this kit has as much detail as the Revell 1/32 scale kit we featured last month. I will
start with a feature that I have never seen before, which is that the pilot’s seat is made up from three parts: the seat pan, the seat back with moulded cushion and shoulder straps, and the support frame. Very conventional, except that the seat frame also features a moulded lap belt. Once assembled, this is as convincing as anything I have seen in plastic, and with careful painting has a really good 3D effect. It reminds me very much of the thin plastic seat belts that Japanese company Fine Molds started producing a few years ago. There are some circular depressions between the sides; some are actually supposed to be there, but two are injector pin marks. I used some ultrathin plasticard cut to shape and glued them over the marks. This is far easier than trying to use
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a filler and sanding in such a small area, where so much detail could be removed by accident. Seventeen parts go into making up the cockpit, and the majority are finished in an interior green shade. Like all Airfix kits, the instructions recommend Humbrol paints, in this case number 226. However, I decided to use a custom mix of Tamiya XF-71, with a dash of XF-1 to darken it slightly, in order to match the colours in my main reference on the P-51, Modellers Datafile Number 24.
The various radio boxes, electrical junctions, instrument panel, and throttles were painted in Tamiya NATO Black, while the oxygen hose on the port side of the cockpit was painted in dark brown. I then applied a thinned black oil wash, which popped out all the detail that Airfix have moulded on these parts. Once that had dried, I
applied the instrument dial decals and placards to the sidewalls; this really helped bring the cockpit to life. For most modellers, the cockpit supplied is more than adequate, and certainly one of the best I have built out of the box in this scale. I now moved on to the ducting under the cockpit. This
is supplied as full length, and is made up from a section moulded under the cockpit floor to which you add side and lower panels. These panels do have the trace of ejector pin marks, but a couple of swipes with a sanding stick removed them easily, then they were painted with Humbrol aluminium. The final items to be added to the extended cockpit floor moulding are the detailed sidewalls for the tailwheel bay, which include the bay doors. Airfix would have you add the tailwheel at this stage, but if you
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remove the pips from the tailwheel leg that attach to the sidewalls, it can be popped into place later. Now I moved onto the fuselage halves by adding the separate tail fin and the cooler intake on the side of the nose. As there are two alternative styles for both of these, make sure you use the part numbers supplied on the instructions to use the correct ones Now you can join the fuselage halves; the fit is excellent, with no filler needed at all. I really like the way that Airfix have supplied the upper nose cowling as a single piece, thereby avoiding one area were a seam would be really noticeable. Another nice touch is that the windscreen also includes a large area of the fuselage, which, combined with the near perfect fit, really makes the clear area looks seamless – just like the real thing. With the fuselage completed, I moved on to the wings. Here you
have to make some choices early on as to what weapon load you are going to have under the wings. You are supplied with racks that can carry either paper or metal fuel tanks (the kit also supplies 500 lb bombs, but these are not mentioned in the instructions), or my choice, the three-pack of 3.75 inch rocket tubes under each wing. There are a number of semirecessed holes under the wings and the instructions clearly show which holes need to be opened up for your desired option. It is at this stage that another decision needs to be made: the kit’s wings have some very nice engraved detail, but as any Mustang expert will tell you, the Mustang’s wings
were smooth, with all joins filled and sanded at the factory. The only engraved area would be around the gun bay and fuel filler caps. At least that’s what the experts would say. In fact, if you look at period photographs, some do have a super smooth wing surface, but certainly not all, as on other photographs you can see traces of panel lines. I chose to fill the panel lines on my model. It took under 10 minutes to apply typewriter correction fluid using Pental’s Microcorrect
pen to all the engraved detail. After leaving this for 20 minutes I wet-sanded the wing to obtain a super smooth finish. (I will say that, after applying a silver finish, I did have to reapply more fluid, as a few spots that looked perfect in the raw plastic were not under the silver paint coat.) Once that was done, the wings assembled very easily, after first painting the undercarriage bay in zinc chromate yellow, followed by a thin oil wash to lift out all the moulded detail. With the wing assembled, I used the packing foam that Aires use in their aftermarket sets to fill the undercarriage bay, the tailwheel bay on the still separate fuselage, and the void under the cockpit area where the wing will fit later. I also masked off the windshield with Tamiya tape, and used one of the alternative canopies to mask off the cockpit by tacking it in place with white glue. The canopy I was going to pose on my model had its inside lower edge thinned with a sharp scalpel until it sat properly over the fuselage rather than perched on top of it. This was now masked with more Tamiya tape, while the insides were filled with Play-Doh to protect the interior from overspray.
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Fortunately, I had the decal sheet from my second kit, which was used to repair the damage. An overall coat of semi-matt varnish sealed everything in and I could move on to the next stage I was very impressed with these decals and rate them as some of the best I have used out of a kit box.
“THIS IS A BEAUTIFUL KIT THAT IS ACCURATE OUT OF THE BOX, AND COMES WITH SO MANY OPTIONAL PARTS” PAINTING, DECALING, AND THE FIRST MISTAKE I started by applying an overall coat of Halfords aluminium car paint to the wing to represent the overall painted finish applied to this area. For the fuselage, I used an overall coat of Humbrol Metalcote Aluminium from a rattle can, then masked individual panels, and added some contrast with Alclad Aluminium, Dark Aluminium, and Magnesium. The nose anti -glare shield was painted using Tamiya JSDF Olive Drab. One of my friends had recommended a new product from Tamiya called Panel Line Accent. Though I do not normally like ink-washing panel lines, this product made it quick and easy, and the colour achieved with the black wash that I used was quite subtle. The propeller blades were painted with Humbrol 69 Yellow, then I cut some masking tape into 2.13 mm strips, which I used to mask off the propeller warning markings. Finally, matt black was applied over the spinner,
propeller blades, and the opening part of the canopy. With the painting complete I now applied the decals. The kit comes with two options: “Jersey Jerk” from the 361st FS at RAF Martlesham Heath during 1945, and my choice, “Little Indian”, from the 2nd Air Commando Group from Kalaikunda, India, 1945. Like all recent decals, these
FINAL STRAIGHT AND ANOTHER MISTAKE are very comprehensive; in fact, for my tastes, too comprehensive, and I must admit to missing off some off the 80 plus stencils. I found that these decals worked a lot better with very warm water and settled down very well into the detail. However, I accidently managed to break both of the fuselage lightning bolts into two parts. This was my fault, as they had not fully dried while I was handling the model.
Sometimes I find modelling very relaxing after a stressful 10-hour shift in my day job, and at one of my late night/early morning sessions I added all the bits that I had left off till now, including the undercarriage, aerial mast, and the parts for the interior of the canopy. Next day I came down to add the control surfaces, dropped flaps, and under carriage doors, and realised I had done a real
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classic muck-up. On most aircraft, the wheel hub faces into the bay, but not the P-51, where the hub faces outboard. This is shown clearly on the instructions. But as I am real modeller, who reads instructions? So, I had firmly attached my undercarriage the wrong way around, and when trying to gently remove it, I managed to break the locating stub off on one leg in its locating socket, and the air went blue. Out came my second kit, which donated its undercarriage to the cause (I am sure Scale Aircraft Conversions will have a white metal replacement set out by the time you read this). I now faced the tricky task of drilling out the broken stub, using a square jewellers file to reinstate the original square shaped locating socket. While I had the drills out, I also drilled out the machine guns, exhaust pipes, and the ends of
the bazooka tubes. This required a steady hand but really improves the look of the completed model. Finally, the rear canopy was added, the masks removed from the windshield, and an aerial wire added from Knitting In Elastic to finish my build.
CONCLUSION
This is a beautiful kit that is accurate out of the box, and comes with so many optional parts that you can fully use any aftermarket sets you may have for a Mustang with the tail fillet. The fit is superb,
and even with my own self-induced mistakes, it only took a week to build. I am sure we will see at least two more variations on a theme before the year is out and it certainly deserves to be a best seller: Airfix’s large distribution network in the UK makes the kit easily available to many without resorting to the internet. In fact, the kit is so good I have laid down a third example for my retirement stash. My thanks to Airfix for supplying the sample used in my build and
to my wallet for supplying the second kit that I used to correct my mistakes. Next time I WILL read the instructions before applying glue!
38 • JANUARY 2018 • SCALE AVIATION MODELLER INTERNATIONAL
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Modellers Datafile Scaled Down
SUPER HORNET Boeing F/A-18E/F and EA-18G Growler MDFSD 7
SUPER HORNET
By Andy Evans
£14.99 + P&P
B
uilt on the success of the F/A-18C and D ‘Legacy Hornets’, the F/A-18E singeseat and the F/A-18F two-seat Super Hornet, and the unique EA-18G Growler give the US Navy an unparalleled seaborne strike and electronic warfare capability. The newer Super Hornet is about twenty-five percent larger than its predecessor, but contains fortytwo percent fewer structural parts, and can fly greater ranges with heavier payloads, has more powerful engines and provides greater survivability, and the brand new electronic warfare variant, the EA-18G adds tactical jamming to the aircrafts already impressive abilities. Entering service in 1999, the Super Hornet replaced the mighty F-14 Tomcat in the fleet defence role and also works in conjunction with the ‘Legacy’ Hornets in the strike role. The forward fuselage remains unchanged
THE BOEING F/A-18E/F
SUPER HORNET and EA-18G Growler By Andy Evans
M DF
7 SCALED DOWN
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M DF 7
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from the earlier aircraft, but the remainder of the Super Hornet shares little with the F/A-18C and D models. In July 2002, the F/A-18E/F began its maiden operational deployment on board USS Abraham Lincoln, and in November 2002, the aircraft made its combat entry, striking air defence sites in Southern Iraq with Joint Direct Attack Munitions (JDAMs). The aircraft was also deployed as part of Operation ‘Iraqi Freedom’ in March 2003, and has since been used in action over Afghanistan, Libya and Syria and continues in operational deployments around the globe. This new Scaled Down from SAM Publications brings the Super Hornet story to life.
11/09/2017 15:17
ORDER HOTLINE: 44 (0)1234 211245 ORDER ONLINE: www.sampublications.com 08/12/2017 12:45 17:00 02/11/2017
7 12:45
Sam THE
FIRST LOOK!
FIRST LOOK!
Boeing Fortress Mk III
Messerschmitt Bf-109G-6 Bf-109G-6 (Late Test First look at Tamiya 1/48 Messerschmitt
L
T
et us leave the “Do we really need another 109G?” bit until the end, and move on
he Boeing B-17 Flying Fortress is probably best known from the images of
boxes of the aircraft, in natural over metal or olive drab, droning Germany in daylight, besieged by swarms of Luftwaffe fighters,
to what Tamiya have achieved with this kit. Amazingly, they have managed to raise the bar
and, often as not, trailing smoke and sundry airframe parts. Little known, however, is the use the RAF made of this remarkable aircraft, in several the variants, but most notably as Fortress Mk III. This was roughly equivalent to the USAAF B-17G,
yet again for what is achievable in a plastic kit; surprisingly, however, they have not included the one feature that would
have made it unbeatable. As was to be expected, the kit a has been designed to produce very late mark 109, although with this manufacturer’s history for dragging out the most from their toolings, do not expect any further
versions until at least 2019. This approach has led to a number of compromises, such as the removal of the umbrella mounting points for the Trop the version, and several doors on to side of the fuselage that have be filled. There are also a lot of optional parts that, with some you aftermarket decals, could keep the busy for years. These include short tropical dust filter, a choice of or long aerial masts, two styles for of DF loops, and three options points. mounting mast Morane And we have not even started on the stand out feature of this of kit: a very nice representation the Daimler-Benz engine, which, with careful painting, will look very nice out of the box. The unique feature of this kit is that you do not have to choose between displaying the engine or closing
FIRST LOOKS! • Tamiya 1/48 Messerschmitt Bf-109G-6
First look at Airfix 1/72 Boeing Fortress
Shot)
and was used in clandestine operations by 100 Group. 100 Group was a clandestine special operations unit, assembled
the cowlings and hiding it. Using small magnets, you can quickly and easily swap between the supplied alternative open or closed this cowlings (I cannot wait to try feature out!). Other options include poseable control surfaces, dropped flaps, and leading-edge slats. Markings are supplied for RLM three aircraft, all finished in 74/75/76 splinter camouflage, with various amounts of mottle on the fuselage side.
• Messerschmitt Bf109G-6, Yellow 1, 9/JG54, February 1944. Blue Reichs Defence Band. 1, • Messerschmitt Bf109G-6, Yellow 9/JG52, October 1943. This aircraft has yellow trim under the nose and wing, plus a half tail band.
• Messerschmitt Bf109G-6/R6. White 9, 7/JG27, Maleme, Crete, December 1943. This aircraft has a white rudder and tail fin plus a white tail band. It is also a gunboat, so it has 20mm gondolas under the wings.
As well as the various marking options,
to deploy the increasingly sophisticated electronic warfare jam techniques being developed to
you are also supplied with a full set of stencils and dials for the you instrument panel, and, in case
do not use the rather nice pilot figure, a set of seatbelts. In the same packet is a set of painting masks for the canopy, though sheet these have to be cut from the using a sharp scalpel blade. I am really impressed by this had kit, but I do wish that Tamiya invested in slide-mould technology, the so that they could hollow out ends of the machine guns, cannons, did, and exhaust pipes. But if they there would probably be nothing as for the aftermarket to supply, the plastic detail is so good.
Mk III by Huw Morgan
ground controllers to misdirect night fighters). The Fortress III variants had the chin and ball turrets removed, and a large, chin-mounted radar installed, together with various transmitting and receiving aerial arrays. Airfix has produced a tidy Fortress III kit, based on their 2016 B-17G issue. The kit contains an all the original parts, adding additional sprue to carry the aerials, radar scanner, and plain wheels plus appropriate to the RAF version, a clear sprue, modified to include the nose radome. The 264 plastic but parts are very neatly moulded, as the panel lines are much more they restrained than on earlier kits, will no doubt recede under paint.
• Airfix 1/72 Boeing Fortress Mk III • Artesania Latina 1/16 Fokker DRI • Italeri 1/48 F-104G Starfighter Two very similar schemes are offered: • #223 Squadron 100 Group, RAF Sculthorpe and RAF Oulton. 1944. (Dark earth and dark green overnight black,
and disrupt German ground-based and airborne radars (at times, even German-speaking crew were carried to impersonate German
with painted radome). • “Take it Easy” #214 Squadron, 100 Group, RAF Sculthorpe and RAF Oulton 1944. (Dark earth and dark green overnight black, with frosted radome).
also be the most expensive option, at £39.99 in the UK. However, it is also the most widely distributed and is easily available for those modellers who do not like using the internet. So, when this kit is released in February, treat yourself. I CONCLUSION know you will have an enjoyable Over the last three years, we have had experience, as that has been the two state-of-the-art representations hallmark feature of every Tamiya of the 109G-6, and these are both kit I have built in the last 30 years. beautiful kits. The Tamiya example, My thanks to The Hobby however, offers you more options Company, Tamiya’s UK importer, probably has in the basic box, and for supplying us with this late test the best plastic details of them all. shot. We hope to have a full build And if past Tamiya products are in the next issue of Scale Aviation anything to go by, they will certainly Modeller International – just in time be the easiest to assemble. for the kit’s scheduled UK release. The only downside is that it will
Airfix’s instructions follow the on recent pattern of being based 3D, computer-aided design images, with incremental parts shown in red; there are 127 assembly stages altogether. Painting instructions are covered in two separate A3-sized colour sheets. Paint references are for Humbrol enamels only. There’s no listing table, so you’ll need a paint chart
over-complicated to simplify moulding. There’s a full interior for the bomb bay, but no bombs, and a hefty central spar on which fit to hang the wings. At first sight, looks like it will be trouble-free, although where there are multiple parts to make up sub-assemblies, care will be needed in alignment. Airfix is to be commended for bringing us a modern model of a remarkable and unsung RAF aircraft. Thanks to Airfix for the review sample.
see page 54 to be able to find alternatives. There are no sprue maps to help find those elusive parts. Detail looks excellent, with lots going on in the interior and gun turrets, and the engine front faces and turbo superchargers look to be nicely rendered. The engineering of the kit is well bit thought out, albeit perhaps a
January 2018 WORLD’S BEST MODEL NEWSPAPER ‘FREE’
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2018 • 53
INTERNATIONAL
>> WINGNUT WINGS 1/32 SOPWITH 5F.1 DOLPHIN FIGHTER
A Dolphin with Teeth
A
t Telford, we had a few announcements from smaller companies but most of the big boys had nothing new to announce. Let’s hope they are saving things for the Nuremberg Toy Fait in Nuremberg at the end of January. And once Telford is over new announcements tend to tail off as manufacturers prepare for the Xmas rush. With one notable exception, as just before Christmas Wingnut Wings made their now traditional preChristmas surprise announcement.
With no warning Wingnuts Wings released a 1/32 scale Sopwith 5F.1 Dolphin fighter.
W
ingnuts box art is typical of the superb art that Wingnuts are famous for featuring a Dolphin with a Fokker DR.1 Triplane on its tail, I am sure many will now be using this to prophesise the release of a Triplane at some point! But there are two stand out Items of this kit that show there is nothing new under the sun. Many readers will be familiar with the Luftwaffes use upward firing cannons on Bf110 and He-219 Night Fighter during the second world war. But I am sure that many will not be aware that the RAF used this concept on the Sopwith Dolphin during 1918. It is a similar story with Sharksmouths. Many would associate the first appearance of these with the P-40 during the second
First Chopper
world war but a number of aircraft had these applied during the First World War. But none were as dramatic as the sample that is one of the marking options in this new kit and is shown on the built-up model photographs that Wingnuts have supplied us with.
R
egarded as the first helicopter to reach series production the Flettner Fi282 Hummingbird was used by the German Navy for tests from the cruiser Koln as well also with ground units in the Mediterranean and Aegean during 1943. At Telford, Mini Art announced the type as their first aircraft kit in the military scale of 1/35. This is proving increasingly popular for large scale Helicopters. The sample on display looks amazing with plenty of detail and clearly show the intermeshing rotor design that many will be more familiar with from the 1960s Kaman Husky helicopter. The Luftwaffe two seat version will no doubt follow in due course and I am already storing wooden coffee stirrers to produce a section of ship deck to display this model.
Extra Large Jumping Bean F
ollowing on from the large scale Focke Wulf Fw-190 HobbyBoss have now announced the release of a 1/18 scale McD AV-8B Harrier. Both of these kits have their origin in prebuilt kits produced by Merit, but do not let that put you off as they are quite nice out of the box and in this scale super detailing will be easy to add and take them to an all new level.
Vixen
L
ike many Airfix kits recently the 1/48 scale Sea Vixen has been increasingly hard to find and is starting to attract premium prices. Trumpeter had also noticed a gap in the market and have responded by announcing an all new Sea Vixen for the early part of this year. We wil have to wait and see how this compares with the Airfix kit for accuracy but at least it will be readily available.
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More Little Choppers A
t Telford Whirlybird released two new families of helicopters, we will start with the Sikorsky S.51 and it’s British built derivative the Westland Dragonfly. The Dragonfly comes with four Royal Navy
In Progress A
t ScalemodelWorld Iconicair had a few more finished parts of their ongoing project to produce a multi-media 1/32 super scale Supermarine Attacker. Hopefully, this kit will be available for sale at Telford in 2018.
options while the S.51 supplies marking for two aircraft operated by British European Airways in the 1950s.The other new family covers the Westland Puma, this has been released in three boxing two with RAF marking while the third boxing is a SA.330L from the Portuguese Air Force with some attractive special markings.
Must Respar Canberra Again W
Branching Out
N
ormally in the news we feature the latest aircraft kits, not 1/35 scale figures which we would normally feature in Scale Military Modelling Internationals. But Kittyhawk have announced they will be releasing six figures to complement their recent AH-6 Little Bird. This set will feature two pilots a four special operations soldiers sitting on the two benches mounted on either side of the fuselage. This will make a simple and convincing addition to anyone building either the current MH-6J or the MH-6M due in 2018.
as the running joke as Panavia struggled to get the M.R.C.A (Multi Role Combat Aircraft) to carry out most of the roles that the Canberra has been doing for over 20 years. In the end, the M.R.C.A became the Tornado but it was hardly the quantum leap forward that the Canberra had been when it was introduced into service in the 1950s. Now at Telford S&M Models have released two variants of the Canberra in 1/72 scale. The RAF B.2 and T.4 in a series that could run and run. The EE Canberra was produced in no less than 28 variants and that is before you include any of United States built examples .
A kind of Camel
I
f you told most modellers that you next kit would be a 1/72 scale Dromedary there would be plenty of puzzled looks. Even more so if you said it was a modern aircraft that first flew in 1976 and is still in production today with over 759 in service around the world including 200 in the United States. THE PZL M-18 Dromader (Polish for Dromedary) is a purpose built agricultural aircraft that can be
used as a crop duster or more famously in it’s Firefighting role. And now if you want to produce an M-18 Grand Models from Greece are well on their way to releasing a 1/72 scale multi-media kit of the type. Though most of the parts were on display at Telford we have no information on marking options but I think a Greek Air Force example will be inevitable.
44 • JANUARY 2018 • SCALE AVIATION MODELLER INTERNATIONAL
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KINGKIT THE ORIGINAL KIT DEALER (Est. 1983) Due to the continued success of our new web site, we are looking to buy all types of second hand models, accessories and related books.... please contact us for a quote
www.kingkit.co.uk NEW
ADDRESS!
042-47-News-0118.indd 45
Unit 8, Cedar Court, Halesfield 17, Telford TF7 4PF
TEL: 01952 586 457 e-mail
[email protected] www.kingkit.co.uk
08/12/2017 17:01
News CZECH
By Tim Upson-Smith
F
or me, the model show season of 2017 is over with SAMI’s attendance at another successful Plastic Winter show in Bratislava. This year saw record numbers of entries into the competition and it was great to catch up with friends from all over Europe. KPM Bratislava are to be congratulated for this show and all being well we will be attending again next year! As always we managed to catch up with the Czech model companies who were attending and came home with a suitcase of review samples, which we will bring to you as previews and builds over the coming months! So on with the news from Scale Model World, Telford and Plastic Winter, Bratislava. If your company or product is not featured and you would like it to be, please contact us at the editorial e-mail address.
Rocket Ship AZ MODEL
N
ew from AZmodel for Telford was 2 boxings of the Saunders Roe SR-53A in 1/72 scale, the prototype and a ‘what if’ production model named the ‘Rocketeer’. We have the ‘what if’ version for review as the prototype kit had sold out at Plastic Winter, so time to E bay the old Airfix kit and buy and build this new kit from AZ! Also new for Telford was another ‘What if’ the Martin Baker MB6, a strange looking thing to say the least! The 1/72 scale Curtiss P-36, A, C and Mohawk Mk.III/H75C1, was also new for Telford and Plastic Winter.
RAF Liberator EDUARD
T
his month we are able to bring you some more news on the expected future releases from Eduard, first up is the re-boxing of the AMK 1/48 Delfin, this seemed to be quite a popular selling kit at Plastic Winter… Eduard will be offering Overtrees of this kit as well as a Weekend Edition and possibly a Limited Edition, which may feature a book on the type… In February, we can look forward to a limited-edition kit dedicated to Finnish Bf 109G-2 and G-6 aircraft, in 1/48th. For fans of RAF
Coastal Command, you can look forward to March and the long awaited release of the modified ex-Hasegawa Liberator GR Mk.V (and Mk.III) in 1/72 scale. This will be titled ‘Riders in the Sky 1944‘. This kit will feature two specially produced runners of plastic parts to produce the RAF variants. 2018 will also see some more MiG 21s in 1/48 scale and more significantly also in 1/72 scale, with the MF variant being offered first in a Profi-pack edition.
A Hunter for two plus exclusive news… M MARK 1
ark 1 were at Telford where they had a surprise announcement a 1/144 scale Hunter T.8. This kit features the plastic from the rather excellent Revell kit, with Mark 1 supplying a new fuselage and canopy plus all the extras for the cockpit and a rather nice decal sheet for four
options, the overall dark sea grey appeals as the simplicity of the scheme shows off the sexy lines of the Hunter… The long awaited 1/144 scale Dornier Do 17Z-2/3 is also now available and very nice it looks too, the sample we received has Eastern Front markings including one in all over winter white and a Finnish example. For fans of the really tiny
January releases from Eduard will be, in 1/48 scale as a Profipack edition, a Bf 109G-14, also in a Profi-pack the popular 1/48 scale Spad XIII is being reissued. The 1/48 scale SE.5a Wolseley Viper is being released as a Weekend edition, with Grinnel-Milnes famous red painted fuselage aircraft as an option. Last but not least in 1/72 scale we have a Limited-edition release of Fw 190 ‘Grünherz’ As well as the kits, there are lots of photo-etch and Brassin sets to tempt as well www.Eduard.com
the 1/144 scale Let L-13 Blanik glider may appeal, with two in the box the construction won’t take long but adding the decals just might! We are able to exclusively reveal that in January/February Mark 1 will be releasing a 1/144 scale Spitfire 14/18 series, we will keep you posted!
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Air Baby for the new year KOVOZAVODY PROSTEJOV (KP)
T
he Praga Air Baby wasn’t quite ready for Plastic Winter, as the mould was still being polished, but we can expect the British licence built Hilson-Praga Air Baby too and there will be different boxings for the various countries they ended up in including the UK and Australia. Whilst at Plastic Winter we received review samples of the new Avia B-9/BH11, the Avia CS
199 and LVG C.IV all of which look pretty good on the sprue. Yes, they are short run technology, so
some cleaning up will be required, but I don’t see the big companies like Tamiya kitting an Avia BH11!
Japanese delight RS MODELS
T
he new 1/72 scale Nakajima Ki-87 is almost with us, and from what we have seen of the test shots it looks very good!
Special CASA SPECIAL HOBBY
Scaled down Cherry Blossom B BRENGUN/HAULER
rengun have been very busy over the last month, with several new releases available for Plastic Winter. The Yokosuka MXY7 Ohka has been scaled down from 1/48 and is now available in 1/72 scale. The Yak 1 has also been re released this time in a boxing featuring captured aircraft. In 1/144 scale the long-awaited Horton 229 is now available, along with a scaled down version of the Yak 1. If you fancy a challenge bending some etched brass, Brengun have also released a 1/72 scale launch tower for their Bachem Natter kit! www.brengun.cz
T
he new 1/72 scale CASA C-212 was released at Plastic Winter and we can look forward to the imminent release of the C-212-100 in a Limited-edition ‘Portuguese tail art’, as the name would suggest this kit features markings for a specially painted Portuguese example! By the time you read this the new 1/72 scale P-40N Warhawk/Kittyhawk Mk.IA should be available.
In other news from Special Hobby, I took the opportunity, at Plastic Winter, to ask about the 1/32 scale Westland Whirlwind they announced some time back. It is still being worked on and with any luck we should have some news at the Nuremberg Toy Fair in Febuary, watch this space.
No fanfare? HPH
P
eacemaker well, what can we say? It is huge! With only 100 kits being produced you will need to get in quick to order this monster of a model! Lurking under the Peacemakers massive wing at Telford was for
me some really exciting news, in the form of a resin master for a Rolls Royce Eagle engine in 1/32 scale and the note saying that it is for a Handley Page 0400 which is in development! Watch this space, we will bring you more news when we have it…
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SHOW REPORT
Telford
PHOTO SCRAPBOOK
Scale ModelWorld 2017 Telford International Centre – November 11th - 12th
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hat a show, what a competition, and as is usual I missed so much, thanks to technology my watch tells me that I walked over 20 miles on the two days of the show and I never left the halls! This gives you an idea how big this event has become and I missed so much I never got the opportunity to take photographs of the S.I.G’s or clubs that are such an intrinsic part of the show. So my photo scrapbook is of the competition area, and just gives you a small idea of the quality of the models
on display. This year the best in show was won by a 1/18 scale Supermarine Spitfire which won a number of Trophies as well as it’s class (But strangely only came second in IPMS Czech Trophy, make you wonder what won!!!) As always a massive thank you to the large team of volunteers who made this event possible and are already organising the 2018 event on the 10th to 11th of November, and as it coincides with 100th anniversary of the First World War is bound to be special.
BEST IN SHOW!
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FIRST LOOK!
Messerschmitt Bf-109G-6 First look at Tamiya 1/48 Messerschmitt Bf-109G-6 (Late Test Shot)
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et us leave the “Do we really need another 109G?” bit until the end, and move on to what Tamiya have achieved with this kit. Amazingly, they have managed to raise the bar yet again for what is achievable in a plastic kit; surprisingly, however, they have not included the one feature that would have made it unbeatable. As was to be expected, the kit has been designed to produce a very late mark 109, although with this manufacturer’s history for dragging out the most from their toolings, do not expect any further versions until at least 2019. This approach has led to a number of compromises, such as the removal of the umbrella mounting points for the Trop version, and several doors on the side of the fuselage that have to be filled. There are also a lot of optional parts that, with some aftermarket decals, could keep you busy for years. These include the tropical dust filter, a choice of short or long aerial masts, two styles of DF loops, and three options for Morane mast mounting points. And we have not even started on the stand out feature of this kit: a very nice representation of the Daimler-Benz engine, which, with careful painting, will look very nice out of the box. The unique feature of this kit is that you do not have to choose between displaying the engine or closing
the cowlings and hiding it. Using small magnets, you can quickly and easily swap between the supplied alternative open or closed cowlings (I cannot wait to try this feature out!). Other options include poseable control surfaces, dropped flaps, and leading-edge slats. Markings are supplied for three aircraft, all finished in RLM 74/75/76 splinter camouflage, with various amounts of mottle on the fuselage side. • Messerschmitt Bf109G-6, Yellow 1, 9/JG54, February 1944. Blue Reichs Defence Band. •M esserschmitt Bf109G-6, Yellow 1, 9/JG52, October 1943. This aircraft has yellow trim under the nose and wing, plus a half tail band. •M esserschmitt Bf109G-6/R6. White 9, 7/JG27, Maleme, Crete, December 1943. This aircraft has a white rudder and tail fin plus a white tail band. It is also a gunboat, so it has 20mm gondolas under the wings. As well as the various marking options,
you are also supplied with a full set of stencils and dials for the instrument panel, and, in case you do not use the rather nice pilot figure, a set of seatbelts. In the same packet is a set of painting masks for the canopy, though these have to be cut from the sheet using a sharp scalpel blade. I am really impressed by this kit, but I do wish that Tamiya had invested in slide-mould technology, so that they could hollow out the ends of the machine guns, cannons, and exhaust pipes. But if they did, there would probably be nothing for the aftermarket to supply, as the plastic detail is so good.
CONCLUSION
Over the last three years, we have had two state-of-the-art representations of the 109G-6, and these are both beautiful kits. The Tamiya example, however, offers you more options in the basic box, and has probably the best plastic details of them all. And if past Tamiya products are anything to go by, they will certainly be the easiest to assemble. The only downside is that it will
also be the most expensive option, at £39.99 in the UK. However, it is also the most widely distributed and is easily available for those modellers who do not like using the internet. So, when this kit is released in February, treat yourself. I know you will have an enjoyable experience, as that has been the hallmark feature of every Tamiya kit I have built in the last 30 years. My thanks to The Hobby Company, Tamiya’s UK importer, for supplying us with this late test shot. We hope to have a full build in the next issue of Scale Aviation Modeller International – just in time for the kit’s scheduled UK release.
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FIRST LOOK!
Boeing Fortress Mk III First look at Airfix 1/72 Boeing Fortress Mk III by Huw Morgan
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he Boeing B-17 Flying Fortress is probably best known from the images of boxes of the aircraft, in natural metal or olive drab, droning over Germany in daylight, besieged by swarms of Luftwaffe fighters, and, often as not, trailing smoke and sundry airframe parts. Little known, however, is the use the RAF made of this remarkable aircraft, in several variants, but most notably as the Fortress Mk III. This was roughly equivalent to the USAAF B-17G, and was used in clandestine operations by 100 Group. 100 Group was a clandestine special operations unit, assembled to deploy the increasingly sophisticated electronic warfare techniques being developed to jam and disrupt German ground-based and airborne radars (at times, German-speaking crew were even carried to impersonate German
ground controllers to misdirect night fighters). The Fortress III variants had the chin and ball turrets removed, and a large, chin-mounted radar installed, together with various transmitting and receiving aerial arrays. Airfix has produced a tidy Fortress III kit, based on their 2016 B-17G issue. The kit contains all the original parts, adding an additional sprue to carry the aerials, radar scanner, and plain wheels appropriate to the RAF version, plus a clear sprue, modified to include the nose radome. The 264 plastic parts are very neatly moulded, but as the panel lines are much more restrained than on earlier kits, they will no doubt recede under paint. Two very similar schemes are offered: •# 223 Squadron 100 Group, RAF Sculthorpe and RAF Oulton. 1944. (Dark earth and dark green overnight black,
with painted radome). •“ Take it Easy” #214 Squadron, 100 Group, RAF Sculthorpe and RAF Oulton 1944. (Dark earth and dark green overnight black, with frosted radome). Airfix’s instructions follow the recent pattern of being based on 3D, computer-aided design images, with incremental parts shown in red; there are 127 assembly stages altogether. Painting instructions are covered in two separate A3-sized colour sheets. Paint references are for Humbrol enamels only. There’s no listing table, so you’ll need a paint chart to be able to find alternatives. There are no sprue maps to help find those elusive parts. Detail looks excellent, with lots going on in the interior and gun turrets, and the engine front faces and turbo superchargers look to be nicely rendered. The engineering of the kit is well thought out, albeit perhaps a bit
over-complicated to simplify moulding. There’s a full interior for the bomb bay, but no bombs, and a hefty central spar on which to hang the wings. At first sight, fit looks like it will be trouble-free, although where there are multiple parts to make up sub-assemblies, care will be needed in alignment. Airfix is to be commended for bringing us a modern model of a remarkable and unsung RAF aircraft. Thanks to Airfix for the review sample.
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FIRST LOOK!
The Red Baron’s Triplane First look at Artesania Latina 1/16 Fokker DRI by Tim Upson-Smith Ref. 20350 Laser cut wood, metal castings Photo-etch brass and photo-etch steel Acrylic display stand Instructional CD with video tutorials
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his kit was announced at the 2017 Nuremberg Toy Fair, and is an all-new 1/16 scale multi-media kit of the Fokker DRI (not to be confused with the 1/16 scale Model Airways kit, announced at the Toy Fair in 2015!) Artesania Latina are perhaps more well known for their wooden model boat kits; growing up I watched my Dad build quite a few of these! This is the company’s first foray into aircraft, and we have been lucky enough to receive this review sample. So what is inside the box? The top-opening box has a large colour picture of the finished model, along with some smaller detail views, and a photo of a replica Fokker DRI with a colourised Manfred von Richthofen and his dog. Inside the box we find three clear-lidded, moulded trays that contain the cast metal parts, and four sheets of photo-etch, three steel and one brass. There are two sheets of laser-cut ply containing the parts for the three wings, and two sheets of lasercut wood, with four dark and four light laminations, which will need to be glued together and shaped to form the propeller.
There is also a bundle of thin veneer strips, dowels, and wire; the parts for a rather smart acrylic display stand; and a glossy poster giving full-size plan and profile views of the finished model. A small decal sheet supplies the instrument dials and data plates. The instructions are supplied on a CD, which also includes a parts list, 11 tutorial videos on building the model, and a gift coupon for your next purchase. On opening the box, my first impressions were good. Closer inspection, however, shows that every metal part has a seam line that needs cleaning up, but in fairness, no worse than the seam lines on most plastic kits. The instructions mention this, as do the tutorial videos. I think I will need to buy some new needle files for this one, as my small ones are more suited to 1/48 scale plastic and resin! The laser-cut wooden parts look good and will require minimal clean up. The etched steel parts are mostly for the tailplane, rudder, ailerons, and wing trailing edge. Bending the brass leading edges will certainly be tricky, but one of the video tutorials shows you how to do this. The instructions, with the addition of the build tutorials, make the assembly seem relatively simple, though it will be time consuming (but definitely rewarding). Some elements of the kit have been simplified to aid construction, such as the rudder and tailplane. These are
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treating each like a small kit! With a model of this size there may be a temptation to add extra detail and refine what is already in the kit, and if you wish to do this the canvas is there. But even with no extra work, you will still end up with an impressive looking model straight out of the box. supplied as flat-section etched steel. as opposed to the tubular construction of the real thing; the same is true of the ailerons. I think I will break this kit down into the individual sub-assemblies,
CONCLUSION
To get the best out of this kit you will need to be confident working with wood and metal. But if you are up to a challenge and fancy trying
“THIS KIT WILL CERTAINLY BUILD INTO AN IMPRESSIVE LOOKING CENTREPIECE IN YOUR DISPLAY CABINET” something a bit different, then this kit will certainly build into an impressive looking centrepiece in your display cabinet, or on your model club table at the next model show! My thanks to Artesania Latina for providing this sample for review. For further information on this kit
visit www.artesanialatina.net And if you are looking for a really good visual reference book for the type, I can recommend Legends of Aviation in 3D, Fokker Dr.I The Aces’ Aircraft, published by Kagero.
COMBAT EDGE Warfighters in Detail
Combat Edge – 1 US Marine Corps AV-8B Harrier Combat Edge – 2 US Navy & Marine Corps EA-6B Prowler
order now
just £9.99 EACH plus postage
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FIRST LOOK!
F-104G Starfighter First look at Italeri 1/48 F-104G Starfighter Special Colors SCALE: 1/48 SKILL LEVEL: 3 MODEL LENGTH: 13.7 in (347 mm) NUMBER OF PARTS: 147 (estimated) STOCK NUMBER: ITAS2777 MANUFACTURER NUMBER: 2777
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ecause of the appeal of its sleek design, and the worldwide service it enjoyed, the F-104 Starfighter has always been a popular subject. During its time, however, it gained a bit of notoriety because of the various methods of procuring it, and also because of its unforgiving nature. It was not friendly to any pilot that lost focus, or had yet to master piloting in unfavorable conditions. Nonetheless, it continued to be a fighter-bomber, reconnaissance platform, and fighter-interceptor into the 1990’s, and even now continues to serve as a vehicle for private aerospace ventures. Italeri announced that they had a 1/48 F-104G in the plans, and with them having possession of the old Esci molds, it was hoped this was not going to be a re-box of that outdated model. I am pleased to say that what is in the box is none other than Hasegawa moulded parts, with some beautiful Cartograph printed decals! I won’t spend too much time
on the plastic, as Hasegawa’s kit has been reviewed the world over. However, you do get everything needed for a basic Italian F-104G, or any “G” model for that matter. The correct bulged main gear doors, larger wheels, and late model exhaust are all included. Absent, as they are in the Hasegawa single-seat kits, are the wing pylons and drop tanks that were common on the G. Luckily these are now available in resin form. You will also find none of the needed items for an F-104S, other than the fuselage dorsal fins. For that, you will need to source the outstanding Daco F-104 correction set. Of interest in this Italeri boxing is how the clear position lights, shown as “optional” items in the Hasegawa kits, are part of the normal sequence within the instructions; Italeri has you drill out the locations in the fuselage and insert the clear parts. Other than that, if you have built a Hasegawa Starfighter, then this latest incarnation will be nothing new to you. The kit is a pleasure to build, with little fuss. What is new is the fantastic decal sheet. The schemes represented include one that flew, and one that did not. The first, an attractive yellow-white-black banded fuselage, covered in stars and
artwork, is from the 3° stormo, 28° Gruppo, Villafranca (VR) in 1989. The next is a total “Ferrari Red” aircraft of the 4° Stormo, 20° Gruppo, Grosseto, that was gifted to Ferrari in 1989 and is on static display at Fiorano track. The gifted F-104 commemorated the race on November 21, 1981 between Canadian F-1 driver Gilles Villeneuve and an Italian Air Force F-104 of the 4° Stormo. Villeneuve won the race. As far as the fuselage numbers on the commemorative F-104, the number “4” was for 4th Wing and “27” was the race number
of Villeneuve´s Ferrari 126 CK Turbo. In this livery, the aircraft never flew, but has remained on static display. Being that the markings are from Cartograph, I expect no trouble from them, but care will be needed in handling the large “witch” emblem. Overall, a welcome addition to the Starfighter collection of kits, and my thanks to Hobbico and Italeri USA for the review sample.
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SAM-M
THE PANAVIA
TORNADO MDF 29
TORNADO
£19.99
A COM P REHENSI VE GUI DE
IDS, ECR and ADV Versions
+ P&P
By Andy Evans
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Aircraft, but the arrival of the jet age brought a plethora of y today’s exacting military standards, the new aircraft into the skies. Many designers clung to the success of the Panavia Tornado is quite ‘traditional’ one-aircraft-one mission thinking, and therefore achievement, and one that made its tri-national air forces found themselves with numerous specialised programme one of the greatest feats of international fighters, bombers and reconnaissance aircraft. As budgets military and political co-operation of the 20th century. became tighter, many promising projects began to be Rather than being the proverbial ‘camel’ (otherwise discarded through financial or political pressures, and known as a horse put together by a committee), the several countries began to see the sense in committing to Tornado has proved itself to be a true thorough-bred, bi-national or tri-national military projects, or alternatively able to deliver ‘as advertised’ in all weathers. The were persuaded to ‘buy American’. In Europe, the growing latter has been the cornerstone of the Tornado’s Soviet threat post-War, led Britain, Germany and Italy to performance, when at its peak, it was one the NATO agree to produce a single aircraft type, that could fly a wide that could function by night, by day, in fog, in rain variety of combat missions, and yet still be tailored to meet or snow, and mount realistic offensive operations. the needs of the individual user nations. So was born the Tornado was conferred with an excellent radar, ‘MRCA’ - later Tornado - and a management company, powerful engines, the ability to carry a large warCover: Illustration Purposes Only Panavia Aviation, was created to oversee the project, which load at both low-level and medium altitudes, had a was for a swing-wing, low- level ‘bomb truck’, capable of defence suppression, superb short field ability, which offered a compromise between traditional stand-off laser designation, anti-shipping and reconnaissance tasks, with further runways and STOL performance. Many historians would doubtless say consideration for a dedicated interceptor variant. The programme was a triumph that the famous De Havilland Mosquito was the original Multi-Role Combat of co-operation, which incredibly faced few hitches and produced perhaps the greatest aircraft of its type. Proven in battle from the deserts of Iraq to the skies of Europe, as well as in keeping the peace, the Panavia Tornado has a singular history, and up-date programs has kept it flying onto the 21st Century. Now in the last years of its service life, was perhaps a good time to look back on what is, and remains a very fine aircraft, and this new Datafile from SAM Publications brings the Tornado story to life!
M DF 29
TORNADO
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ORDER HOTLINE: 44 (0)1234 211245 ORDER ONLINE: www.sampublications.com 02/11/2017 08/12/2017 12:44 17:00
JUST LANDED A list of model kits that have arrived on the Hobby shop shelves in the UK over the last month SCALE MANUFACTURER 1/16 Artesania Latina 1/32 HpH 1/32 Revell 1/48 AFV Club 1/48 Airfix 1/48 Brengun 1/48 Eduard 1/48 Eduard 1/48 Eduard 1/48 ICM 1/48 Kinetic 1/48 Revell 1/48 Revell 1/48 Trumpeter 1/72 AML 1/72 A Model
NAME Fokker DR.1 Triplane Grumman F7F Tigercat N/ A P-51D Mustang IDF F-CK-1C Boulton Paul Defiant Chester Jeep Petlyakov Pe-2 Peshka Focke-Wulf Fw190D-9 Avia B-534 Series III (Weekend) Heinkel He-111H-3 McD CF-118A Hornet Douglas A-26B Invader DH Mosquito MK.IV Aero L-39C Albatros Dassault Mirage IIICJ Martin JRM-3 Hawaii Mars
TYPE New Tool New Tool New Tool New Tool New Version New Tool Ex ICM Reissue Reissue New Tool New Decals Ex Monogram New Version New Tool Re-issue New Tool
PRICE £299 £286 £36.99 £48.99 £20.99 £27.99 £49.99 £25.80 £19.40 £3.70 £48.99 £36.99 £29.99 £39.99 £13.99 £239.99
1/72 A Model 1/72 A Model 1/72 AVI Model 1/72 Airfix 1/72 Azur 1/72 Big Planes 1/72 Eduard 1/72 Eduard 1/72 Italeri 1/72 Kora 1/72 Kora 1/72 Mach 2 1/72 Mach 2 1/72 Micro-Mir 1/72 Micro-Mir 1/72 Revell 1/72 RS Models 1/72 RS Models 1/72 RS Models 1/72 RVHP 1/72 RVHP
DH DH104 Dove Yakovlev Yak18-T Mitsubushi A5M1 Avro Shackleton AEW.2 MS.406C1 Pialatus Porter AU-23 Supermarine Spitfire MK.IXe Fokker E.III Weekend IAI Kfir C.1 Gotha Go-145A Night Attack Gotha Go-145A Turkish AF Bristol Brittania B.O.A.C Bristol Brittania RAF Kalinin K-12 Tupolec G-1 Floatplane NA T-6G Texan Bell P-39Q Caudron C-445 Bloch MB.152 Gulfstream G-IVSP Gulfstream Tp102C
New Decals New Tool New Tool New Version Re-issue New Tool New Version New Version New Decals New Version New Version New Tool New Tool New Tool New Version Ex Monogram New Tool New Tool New Tool New Version New Version
£30.60 £18.99 £15.99 £44.99 £14.20 £29.99 £15.99 £10.99 £17.50 £34.30 £34.30 £59.99 £59.99 £29.70 £42.50 £9.99 £17.80 £24.50 £17.80 £119.99 £119.99
1/72 1/72 1/72 1/72 1/144 1/144 1/144 1/144 1/144 1/144 1/144 1/144 1/144 1/144 1/144 1/144
Miles M2F Macroberston Racer Miles M.2H Hawk Major Nakajima Ki-43-III Douglas AD-5W Skyraider NA T-28 Trojan Thai NA T-28 Trojan SVAF NA T-28 Trojan JASDF NA T-28 Trojan Laos Hawker Hunter F.6/FGA.9 Hawker Hunter FR.10/71A/FGA-73 Recce Hawker Hunter T.7 Hawker Hunter T.8c RN LET L-13 Blanik Let L-13/13A Dornier DO-228-200 GA.43 Clark Swisssair
New Tool New Tool Re-Issue New Tool New Decals New Decals New Decals New Decals Ex Revell Modified Tool Ex Revell Modified Tool Ex Revell Modified Tool Ex Revell New Tool New Tool New Decals New Tool
£29.99 £29.99 £15.80 £28.80 £6.99 £6.99 £6.99 £6.99 £15.80 £15.80 £15.80 £15.80 £11.80 £11.80 £31.99 £30.99
SBS Model SBS Model Special Hobby Skale wings Mini Wings Mini Wings Mini Wings Mini Wings Mark 1 Mark 1 Mark 1 Mark 1 Mark 1 Mark1 Welsh Models Welsh Models
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ACCESSORIES
AGB/Accs GB
Kovozávody Prostejov (KP) /AZ model
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his first release reminds me a lot of early Eduard brass sets, as the instructions look very much like that manufacturer’s style during the 1980s. This first set is aimed at the S&M Bristol Sycamore helicopter, and supplies a multitude of small detail parts that will add a lot to the already nice basic kit.
1/72 SCALE
AGB 7200-1 BRISTOL TYPE 171 SYCAMORE DETAIL SET Designed for: S&M Models
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CONCLUSION
There is another similarity to early Eduard sets, which is the price: Hannants have this set available for just £5.99. Our thanks to AGB for supplying the review sample.
Master Models
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ne of the first 1/32 scale sets from Master Models supplied a beautiful brass jacket for a WW1 Spandau machine gun. This set was welcomed by many who, like me, had failed on many occasions to roll a flat etched brass sheet into a perfect cylinder. Now, five years later, they have revisited this subject with three new sets. The main difference is that on each set, the cooling jackets have a different pattern of slots. This means that, to decide which style is most appropriate, you will have to research the aircraft you are building, but thanks to the Wingnut Wings photo libraries (on their website), this is now not that hard. But as their expertise has increased, Master Models have gone a couple of stages further. They have added 3D printing and resin casting to their sets. These new barrels also include two lengths of ammunition belts, one with bullets, one without, as well as a resin feeder.
1/32 SCALE
SPANDAU LMG08 VERSION 1 Product number: 32-102 SPANDAU LMG08 VERSION 2 Product number: 32-103
e don’t get to catch up with AZ/ KP very often, so it was particularly good to see them at Plastic Winter, where we were introduced to a selection of the accessories that they are producing for their kits. I am rubbish at making my own paint masks, so having pre-cut ones is always a plus! The photo-etch set for the L-200 Morava offers a sensible upgrade to this recently re-issued and updated kit. The Hampden clear parts for the Valom kit will be a worthwhile purchase if you have this kit in your stash, but the AZ reissue of the kit has the updated canopy set in it already!
KP
1/72 SCALE
KPEX016 LET L-200A/D Morava canopy mask (for AZ/KP kit) KPEX021 LET L-200A/D Morava PE detail set (for AZ/KP kit) KPEX 022 AVIA CS-199 (for KP kit)
AZ Model
1/72 SCALE
AZA 7034 Hampden Mk.I + TB.I clear parts (for Valom kit) AZA 7035 Saunders Roe SR-53A/ Rocketeer (for AZ model kit)
CONCLUSION
SPANDAU LMG08 VERSION 3 Product number: 32-104
When purchasing an AZ/KP kit, it will be worthwhile to check to see if there is a mask or photo-etch set designed for your kit available. The photo-etch would be a good introduction to adding extra detail, and I consider masks an essential purchase! My thanks to AZ/KP for supplying these samples for review. www. azmodel.cz / www.kovozavody.cz
CONCLUSION
These sets make producing stunning Spandau barrels simple, as well as adding detail to the gun bodies themselves. But there is a price to be paid, as for most aircraft you will need to purchase two of each set to finish your model. The full Master range can be viewed on their website at www. master-model.pl In the UK the range will be stocked by Hannants. Our thanks to Piotr Czerkasow for supplying us with the review samples.
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ACCESSORIES
Iwata
into a dishwasher for cleaning. Filters prevent any chance of overspray escaping from the pot during the cleaning process. I honestly did not realize how much of a difference this would make to the atmosphere in my workshop, and how much of the cleaning fluid I must have been inhaling previously.
I
wata have a reputation for producing high quality airbrushes and their associated equipment. Now, thanks to the Airbrush Company, we have been given the latest version of their universal spray-out pot. To ensure peak performance, cleaning an airbrush after use should be an important part of your routine. But I have had a number of occasions where, during this process, I have managed to damage a model I was working on. As I sprayed out airbrush cleaner fluid, I underestimated the amount of overspray being produced, and managed to damage the beautiful natural metal finish I had spent hours achieving. In the past, I have tried a cheap overspray pot, purchased from an auction site, but to be honest it was very unstable and tipped over at the slightest movement. The Iwata pot is in a whole different class. To start with, it has a large
IWATA UNIVERSAL SPRAY OUT POT Model: CL300 Price £29.95
CONCLUSION
stabilising foot, which means no matter what shape, size, or weight of your brush, it will not topple over. The hanger that holds the airbrush has been designed to fit any type of cup
or trigger design, and the large, 10-ounce glass pot has a very thick base. In this version, the pot is contained within an antiskid sleeve, which can easily be removed if you want to put it
This is one of those items that, once purchased, will last a lifetime, with only the filters needing replacing. And these are not exactly expensive, as they cost just 65p each, though the three supplied with the pot will last you some time. Having used this pot for a couple of weeks I am totally sold on it, and wish I had added one to my bench far earlier. And I thank the Airbrush Company for supplying us with a sample to try.
Eduard/Eduard Brassin
F
rom Eduard this month we have a number of photoetched detail sets. Four standout kits are covered: in 1/32 scale, the Trumpeter MiG-29 and Wingnut Wings Fokker D.VII; and in 1/48 scale, the Gaspatch Models Hs 123 and the Eduard Fw 190A-4.
32409 MiG-29A undercarriage bay detail (for Trumpeter kit) 32410 MiG-29A exterior (for Trumpeter kit) 32411 MiG-29A air brake (for Trumpeter kit) 32913 MiG-29A interior (for Trumpeter kit) 32914 Fokker D.VII (for Wingnut Wings kit)
Eduard
Eduard Mask
1/72 SCALE
73611 MB ejection seat handles
1/48 SCALE
49860 Hs 123 (for Gaspatch models kit) 48936 Fw 190A-4 landing flaps (for Eduard kit) 48937 Fw 190A-4 (for Eduard kit)
1/32 SCALE
1/48 SCALE
EX563 Hs 123 (for Gaspatch models kit) EX565 Fw 190A-4 (for Eduard kit)
FE863 Fw 190A seatbelts Steel (for Eduard kit) FE864 F-35A (for Meng kit) FE865 F-35A seatbelts Steel (for Meng kit)
1/32 SCALE
JX205 Fokker D.VII (for Wingnut Wings kit)
33174 MiG-29A (for Trumpeter kit) 33175 MiG-29A seatbelts Steel (for Trumpeter kit) 33176 Fokker D.VII seatbelts Steel (for Wingnut Wings kit)
Eduard Zoom
Eduard Brassin
1/32 SCALE
1/48 SCALE
FE857 Seatbelts IJN fighters (Steel) FE860 Hs 123 seatbelts Steel (for Gaspatch Models kit)
1/48 SCALE 648 356 Fw 190A wing root gun bays (for Eduard kit)
in the kit. That, for me, is one of the good things about the new Eduard 190; it has plenty of detail out of the box, but if you want to add more, Eduard have created lots of sets, and you can choose what level you want to take your model to! The MiG-29 from Trumpeter has some nice photo-etched sets. The colour cockpit set is the standout this month for me, and will really enhance the detail the kit already has. My thanks to Eduard for supplying these samples for review www.eduard.com
CONCLUSION
Of the kits, the Wingnut Wings Fokker D.VII has the least sets. The steel seatbelts will be a very welcome addition to it, as well those for the Gaspatch Models Hs 123. Eduard steel belts are always worth investing in! The sets for the Eduard Fw 190 will really add to the detail already WWW.SAMPUBLICATIONS.COM • JANUARY 2018 • 61
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ACCESSORIES
Scale Aircraft Conversions
T
his month we have a selection of white metal undercarriage legs for for anumber of new and recent releases from a number of manufacturers from around the world. And certainly the ones for the Wingnuts Fokker E.1 and Roden C-5 will add some needed strength to the legs if you want to transport your model to shows.
PJ Productions
T
his Belgium Manufacturer has been a regularly attendee at Scale ModelWorld every November in Telford, and they nearly always have something new to tempt us. This year was no different, with some new 1/32 scale figure sets, which we will be covering over the next few months. This month we have a seated figure of an RAF fast-jet pilot from the 1960s. He is posed
1/32 SCALE
Fokker E.1 Landing Gear Product No: 32125 Designed for: Wingnut Wings Price: $17.95
1/48 SCALE
O
ne of the joys of visiting shows like Plastic Winter in Bratislava is catching up with manufacturers, so it was good to see Profimodeller at the show, who passed on some of their latest sets for review. We will bring you a look at these sets over the coming issues. This month we are taking a look at the engine detail set for the Revel 1/32 scale Ju-88. The Revell kit is due for reissue as a Light and
NA P-51D MUSTANG LANDING GEAR Product No: 48344 Designed for: Airfix Price: $12.95
1/72 SCALE
TUPOLOV TU-134 CRUSTY-B LANDING GEAR Product No: 72148 Designed for: A Model Price: $16.95
1/144 SCALE
1/32 SCALE
PJ321123 RAF Pilot (1960s)
CONCLUSION
As always, this set is beautifully cast, in four parts, so there is not much in the way of assembly, and as the oxygen mask is moulded in place, there isn’t much of that difficult face painting to do either, something I always appreciate. These and all the PJ Productions range can be ordered from their web site at www.pj-production.be and we thank them for supplying us with the review sample.
Profimodeller
SUPERMARINE WALRUS LANDING GEAR Product No: 48343 Designed for: Airfix Price: $13.95
LOCKHEED C-5B GALAXY LANDING GEAR Product No: 14427 Designed for: Roden Price: $17.95
wearing his flight helmet and oxygen mask, with his hands posed on throttle and stick. I instantly thought how nice this figure would look posed in a Revell Hunter or Trumpeter E.E Lightning.
Sound edition in the new year, so this set is particularly welcome. Inside the box, you will find that this set contains two new resin five-part propellers, and two sets of engine fronts for the first and later version Jumo 211 engines.
1/32 SCALE
32159 Junkers Ju-88 alternative engine parts (for Revell kit)
CONCLUSION CONCLUSION
These samples were provided by Scale Aircraft Conversions and will be available to purchase in the UK from Hannants and the manufacturers also have their own website at www. scaleaircraftconversions.com. Our thanks to Ross McMillan for supplying the review samples. The manufacturer has supplied the photographs to accompany this article and I have attached these separately so no SAM numbers.
The set is cleanly cast in cream resin, with no air bubbles visible on our set. If you have the Revell kit in your stash, or you are waiting for the Light and Sound version, this set offers a simple-tofit detail upgrade. My thanks to Profimodeller for supplying these samples for review. For more information on this and other Profimodeller releases visit www. profimodeller.com
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ACCESSORIES
CMK/CMK Quick and Easy Line
O
ne of the reasons I love going to shows is to catch up with friends, readers, and manufacturers. CMK/ Special Hobby are no exception, so here are the samples we received at Plastic Winter in Bratislavia a few weeks ago.
they are an ideal first step in using resin detail sets. My thanks to CMK/ Special Hobby for supplying these samples. For details on these and other sets visit www.cmkkits.com
CMK
1/72 SCALE
7375 Ki-84-I (Ko) Hayate armament set (for Hasegawa set) 7376 Ki-84-I (Ko) Hayate control surfaces set (for Hasegawa set) 7380 Boeing B-17G cockpit set (for Airfix kit) 7381 Boeing B-17G radio operator’s station set (for Airfix kit)
CMK Quick and Easy Line
1/72 SCALE
Q72 286 Tucano T.1 Ejection seats MB 8LC x2 (for Airfix kit) Q72 287 Tucano T.1 Correction propeller and spinner (for Airfix kit) Q72 288 Ki-84 (Ko) Hayate seat with harness (for Hasegawa kit) Q72 289 Fw 189A front pairs of engine cylinders (for ICM kit) Q72 290 Fw 189A corrected propellers (for ICM kit)
ResKit
T
he latest release from this Ukrainian company supplies a set of wheels for the Mitsubishi F-1 Ground Attack Aircraft. The nose wheel is moulded as one piece with its tyre, while the main wheels have been moulded in three parts, with a separate tyre and hub detail.
Q72 295 P-40 wheels diamond tread (for Special Hobby kit)
CONCLUSION
This month we see some sets for the 1/72 Airfix B17 and Tucano, as well as more sets for the ICM Fw 189 and Hasegawa Ki-84. To round off this month there is a set of wheels for the soon to be released Special Hobby P-40 – the first of many, I am sure! These sets from CMK are simpleto-fit upgrades that require little or no surgery to the plastic kit, so
1/72 SCALE
RS72-055 MITSUBISHI F-1 WHEELS SET Designed for: Hasegawa
1/48 SCALE
RS48-055 MITSUBISHI F-1 WHEELS SET Designed for: Hasegawa
CONCLUSION
ResKit have produced this set in both 1/72 and 1/48 scale for the Hasegawa kit and it’s nice to see these less moulded types getting the attention of the aftermarket manufacturers. Our thanks to Reskit for supplying the review sample. The full range can be seen on their web site at www.reskit.com.us WWW.SAMPUBLICATIONS.COM • JANUARY 2018 • 63
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ACCESSORIES
Bambi BB8 Budget Range Compressor Review by Jay Blakemore
I
n my recent series of airbrush tutorials commissioned by SAMI, I touched upon the difficulties of finding a compressor in a market that is flooded with compressors of all shapes and sizes, many of which are nominally aimed at the modeller. The choice is vast, and many of my airbrush students have told me that finding a suitable type, make and model of compressor is more daunting than finding a suitable airbrush. Most airbrush manufacturers have compressors in their ranges and I am often struck by how unsuitable many of them appear to be for their purported purpose. Those of you who read my tutorial on compressors (January 2017. Vol23 Issue 1) may remember that I concluded that those looking to acquire a suitable compressor should aim to buy an oil-filled compressor with a suitably sized
air tank (receiver). Without going into too much technical detail regarding receiver tanks, suffice it to say here that operating a compressor that lacks one will result in a lack of air pressure – or worse – fluctuating air pressure. An overheating compressor motor, which will cause excessive moisture build and paint corruption, meaning less than perfect results. Since writing that tutorial I have endeavoured to find the perfect range of compressors, not only for my students but for myself too, and in the end, I didn’t have to look very far. Bambi are a UK, compressor manufacturer who are based in Birmingham; just down the road from my studio in fact. Amongst their vast range of compressors are several models that I feel are ideal for the productive modeller who relies on his or her airbrush to attain a perfect finish. One such is the BB8 compressor featured here, and of which I am now the proud owner. The BB8 isn’t exactly small – it weighs in at 21kg and stands 31’’ tall – so it probably won’t sit comfortably on your workbench. But positioned on the floor beneath your work bench its white and green livery exudes quality, and its size gives it a reassuring presence – you know just by looking at it that it will be up to the job. Standing on rubber feet, it is rock-solid in
operation and doesn’t skip about like many compressors are want to do. It is also very quiet at just 40db(A), though because of the large receiver tank the motor is rarely running during normal use. And therein lies the magic of this compressor, for the BB8 has a whopping 9Ltr receiver tank! Delivering a potential 50 L/min of compressed air (31 L/ min at the maximum 8 Bar), which is, in short, enough compressed air to spray the largest 1/24th scale kit imaginable, from start to finish, in one go, without your compressor overheating! Or so I’m guessing. In practice, I have had the unit switched on throughout my working day, every day since receiving it, and the motor has barely even been warm to the touch. A large receiver tank means a constant flow of air, when you need it and at the desired pressure. Separate air pressure gauges mean that you know exactly what air pressure remains in the tank, and exactly what pressure is set at the airbrush nozzle, and when the tank pressure drops below its pre-set level so the motor switches itself back on. And don’t be fooled by the budget name tag – these
compressors are anything but. An internally coated receiver tank means no corrosion. An oil-filled motor unit means longevity, and UK made means help on your doorstep should you require assistance setting the unit up initially. The only thing this compressor won’t do is teach you how to use your airbrush: for that you may require a lesson. I am ecstatic about my new compressor and I fully expect that the BB8 will be my last ever compressor. Please visit me at www. jaysmodelart.co.uk for further information about the BB8 and other recommended Bambi compressors – oh, and airbrush lessons.
A.M.U.R Reaver
F
rom a company new to me comes this eight piece resin set for the recent KittyHawk Su-35. Molded in very pale, almost white resin it consists of two of each of the movable nozzle section, the static section on the airframe, a afterburner flame holder and the turbine section (which features some of the finest detail I’ve ever seen, it’s just a shame the flame holder hides most of it!). The mouldings are crisp and feature more accurate detail than the kit parts and the movable section’s proportions are much better too. Until this set came along anyone wanting to correct the most obvious problem with the KittyHawk kit was looking at
some tricky modifications to the plastic parts which would involve drooping the exhaust somehow, shortening the afterburner section (as the turbine looks to be set a little too deep) and dealing with the annoying way KittyHawk have molded these parts. And that still wouldn’t have corrected a few other issues or added the extra detail this set provides.
1/48 SCALE
SUKHOI SU-35 DEFLECTED EXHAUST NOZZLES Part Number: C4822 Designed for Kittyhawk
CONCLUSION
I am aware that KittyHawk have included some resin corrections in the recent Chinese boxing of this kit but for anyone who buys the original release this set is pretty much essential. My thanks to A.M.U.R Reaver (http:// amurreaver.ru/) for this review set, it’s going straight into the build!
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ACCESSORIES PRODUCT OF THE MONTH
Modelcraft 50 Piece Knife Set & A5 Cutting Mat PKN1050/CM
T
his precision knife and hobby tools set comes in a rather smart aluminium carry case with a clear lid so you can see what is inside. Included are an A5 cutting mat, knives, a scriber, a chisel, spare blades, a sharpening stone, a small plane and a strip cutter. As a modeller, I build mostly scale aircraft in plastic and resin, but I do from time to time expand out into wooden models, boats for the model boat pond and balsa gliders to fly in the park. I am sure that I am not alone in this, so a selection of tools comes in handy, the small plane and strip cutter will be especially useful for my wooden models. The plane will be used in my upcoming build of the Artesania Latina Fokker Dr.I, as it will be ideal for shaping the laminated propeller! If you take your modelling with you when you travel this set already comes in its own little carry case, keeping everything together. Also on a seasonal note, this set will make an ideal gift for the modeller in your life! My thanks to Shesto for supplying this sample for review, for further information on this set and others in the Modelcraft Collection, visit www.shesto
KIT INCLUDES: • Knife handles and blades • Cutting and chiselling blades • Scriber points • Adjustable cutting guide • Mini chisel • Mini precision planner • Blade sharpening stone • A5 cutting mat • Handy aluminium storage & carry case
SPECIFICATIONS •M odelcraft 50 Piece Knife Set & A5 Cutting Mat •A complete set of knives, blades & tools for cutting & precision work. • I deal for craft, hobby & small DIY jobs.
For more information on this and other products go to the Shesto website
www.shesto.com
or contact them directly via email at
[email protected] or telephone
0208 451 6188
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DECALS
Begemot
T
he Tupolev SB-2 was the main bomber for the Soviet Air Force during the early 1940s and examples carried on in service until the end of the Second World War. The republican forces also used it during the Spanish civil war and examples remained in Spanish service well into the 1950s So a type with such widespread usage was bound to draw the attention of Begemot and I am surprised that they limited themselves to just 40 options. Painting and location of all the decals and individual aircraft details are all covered 1n the normal comprehensive instructions which is a treasure trove of information on the type and well worth keeping for reference after you have finished using the decals.
1/72 SCALE
72-073 TUPOLEV SB-2 (1) Traditionally we have always listed all the options for Begemot sheets but to be honest space is quite tight this month so I am just going to describe a few of the schemes that caught my eye. OPTION 1. This is one of the earliest (19370 and plainest option with an overall light grey finish and Russian stars. OPTION 7. This aircraft is an unarmed test airframe and carries the civil registration
Vingtor Decals
T
CCCP-n2440 OPTION 10. Has a mottled green scheme and is one of two options with a ski undercarriage rather than wheels. OPTION 33. This is one of seven Spanish civil war aircraft and carries a scheme similar to Italian aircraft of the period light sand and dark green splotched upper surface camouflage over a light blue underside. OPTION 38. One of three nationalist Chinese aircraft, though finished in a bland green over grey camouflage. The blue and white striped rudder and the high vis nationalist insignia adds a lot of interest to the model.
CONCLUSION
This is a really nice sheet but I am surprised that we have no Finnish, Czech or Luftwaffe examples but as this title has a small (1) after the title I think we will see a second sheet in due course which will cover the missing operators In the UK, the range is available from Hannants and I thank Begemot for supplying us with the review sample.
Lockheed Martin F-35A Lightning II, 5110, RNoAF Lockheed Martin F-35A Lightning II, 5111, RNoAF
he latest from Norwegian Air Force specialist Vingtor covers the marking applied to their first F-35. Needless to say, these are all grey but at least they have this country’s unusual national insignia to add interest if not any colour.
1/48 SCALE
48-131 LOCKHEED MARTIN F-35A TEST AIRCRAFT – ROYAL NORWEGIAN AIR FORCE Lockheed Martin F-35A Lightning II, 5087, RNoAF assigned to 62nd Fighter Squadron USAF, Luke AFB, Arizona 2016. Lockheed Martin F-35A Lightning II, 5088, RNoAF
Lima November Decals
I
do like Emergency Service helicopters and I am working on assembling a mini theme in 1/32 scale. And now I can add two examples from the Norway thanks to Lima November.
1/32 SCALE
LN32-06 NORWEGIAN POLICE EUROCOPTER EC135 In 2004 the Norwegian Police received their first EC 135 helicopter, LN-OCP. It was owned and operated by Pegasus Helikopter AS. This helicopter replaced an
CONCLUSION
The F-35 is now starting to appear in greater numbers around the world though it is still not meeting all its operational specifications. The Norwegian F-35 is the only one to have a major difference from other nations as just like there F-16 a parachute pack system has been installed on the rear of the aircraft. Sadly, no kit manufacturer has included this modification, so we have to hope that some enterprising resin manufacturer will add it to their range to save the modeller having to scratch build this distinctive feature. Our thanks to Vingtor for the review sample which in the UK can be purchased from Hannants.
older AS355N1 registered LN-OBW. In 2012 they received a second EC-135, LNOCB, leased from the Merseyside Police Department. In 2017 the Norwegian Police Department placed an order for 3 new Aw169 helicopters with an option for 3 more. The order was placed with Leonardo Helicopters.
Both aircraft have a similar colour scheme but you have a choice in the shade of blue used on the upper fuselage.
CONCLUSION
These decals enable you to reproduce a very attractive scheme and the instructions include four colour photographs to enable you to add all the details fitted to the airframe accurately. The decals are first rate and the Norwegian police coat of arms is superbly produced in red and a nice representation of the gold. Our thanks to Lima November for the sample which can be purchased from Hannants and is also available in 1/72 and 1/48.
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DECALS
Series Espanolas Decals
I
t has been awhile since we had anything new from this manufacturer who specialises in producing sheets covering the aircraft used by the Spanish Air Forces. There latest sheet covers the EF-18As Hornets being used as Aggressor aircraft for the Spanish Forces in 1/32 scale. All the six options are EX US Navy examples from squadrons operating in a similar role, and carry the same scheme as they did with the US Navy. Either a Desert camouflage in browns and sand or a scheme using blues and greys. All the options have the original US Navy markings overpainted in some form or other. The only addition is the Spanish national markings, unit insignia, and serials. All text is in Spanish but using Google translate it is quite easy to understand what they say. Colour notations use FS colours and though no specific paint range is recommended I would suggest that the new Mr Paints range from Slovakia may be the way to go as they offer the unusual tones used on US Aggressor schemes without mixing.
SPANISH AGGRESSORS EF-18A HORNETS Hornet 18A/21-02/C.15-74 (VFA-127 Cylons). Hornet 18B/21-11/C.15-83 (VFA-203 Blue Dolphins). Hornet 18C/21-04/C.15-76 (VFA-125 Rough Riders). Hornet 18D/21-08/C.15-77 (VFA-127 Cylons). Hornet 18A/21-02/C.15-74 (VFA-127 Cylons). Hornet 18B/21-11/C.15-83 (VFA-203
Blue Dolphins). Hornet 18C/21-04/C.15-76 (VFA-125 Rough Riders). Hornet 18D/21-08/C.15-77 (VFA-127 Cylons). Hornet 18E/21-05/C.15-75 (VFA-127 Cylons). Hornet 18F/21-10/C.15-82 (VFA-203 Blue Dolphins). Hornet 18F/21-10/C.15-82 (VFA-203 Blue Dolphins). Hornet 18C/21-04/C.15-76 (VFA-127 Rough Riders). Hornet 18C/21-04/C.15-76 (VFA-125 Rough Riders)
CONCLUSION
I have always liked Aggressor squadrons and this sheet adds a bit of a spin to the normal US Markings. Perfect for the Academy kit if you have one in your stash. Our thanks to Series Espanolas for supplying the review sample which is also available in both 1/48 and 1/72 scale and can be obtained from www. series-espanolas.com/en/.
Model Maker Decals W
ho likes Tiger Meet markings? Well if you do you need the latest sheet from Model Maker which supplies markings for the attractive low-viz tiger stripe scheme applied by 31 Squadron Polish Air Force for the 2015 event. Even better this sheet has been produced in both 1/72 and 1/48 scales.
1/72 SCALE
F-16C, 4052, NATO TIGER MEET 2015 F-16 POLISH TIGER DEMO TEAM F-16C, 4056, NATO TIGER MEET 2015 F-16 POLISH TIGER DEMO TEAM
1/48 SCALE
As listed above in 1/72 Scale
can see the full range at www. ModelMaker.com.pl and most of the Model Maker range is now being stocked by Hannants in the UK.
CONCLUSION
Our thanks to Model Maker Decals for supplying these decals for review and you WWW.SAMPUBLICATIONS.COM • JANUARY 2018 • 67
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DECALS Westland Sea King HU5 XZ578 – 771NAS HMS Gannet SAR Flight Prestwick 2009/ Westland Sea King XV670/17-771NAS Culdrose 2013. Westland Sea King XV648/18-771NAS Culdrose 2013. Westland Sea King XV673/27-771NAS Culdrose 1989. Westland Sea King ZA137/20-771NAS Culdrose 2013. Westland Sea King ZA166/16-771NAS Culdrose 2013. Westland Sea King ZA167/22-771NAS Culdrose 2013.
Model Art
O
ne of the things that I really like about Scale Modelworld at Telford is the number of decal manufacturers producing subjects from their native countries. Well Model Art have to cover both French and English subjects as though the owner is French has lived in England for many years. One of the new sheets released at Telford in 2017 includes marking for a selection of Mirage III variants operated by E.C 00/002 “Cote d’Or” and Sea Kings from 771 NAS.
1/72 SCALE
72/067 MIRAGE IIIC, B, & R SEA KING HU5 Dassault Mirage IIIC No 8/2-FB EC 02/002 ‘Cote d’Or’ Dijon-Longvic 1969. Dassault Mirage IIIB No 204/2-LV EC
CONCLUSION
03/002 ‘Cote d’Or’ Dijon-Longvic 1966/67. Dassault Mirage IIIC No 39/2-FA EC 02/002 Cote d’Or’ Dijon-Longvic 1967. Dassault Mirage IIIB No 213/2-FK EC 02/002 ‘Cote d’Or’ Dijon-Longvic 1968. Dassault Mirage IIIC No 44/2-FG EC 02/002 ‘Cote d’Or’ Dijon-Longvic 1965.
Isra Decals
JBR Decals
T
he Su-34 Fullback has been in the news during 2017 with the type in combat operations over Syria and now thanks to JBR decals you can reproduce the unusual eggplant purple scheme seen on the news in 1/44 scale using the Trumpeter kit and these new decals.
1/144 SCALE
44035 1:144 DECAL SET FOR SU-34 FULLBACK KITS “Red 22” RF-95005 – Khmeimin, February 2016. “Red 22” RF-95005 – Voronezh, late March 2016. “Red 03” RF-95803 – Khmeimin, January 2016.
Dassault Mirage IIIB No 227/2=FP EC 02/002 ‘Cote d’Or’ Dijon-Longvic 1967. Dassault Mirage IIIR No 340/2-ZH EC 02/002 ‘Cote d’Or’ Dijon-Longvic 1985/86. Westland Sea King HU5 XV647/20-771NAS Culdrose 1989. Westland Sea King HU5 XV647/28-771NAS Culdrose 2013.
This new sheet is typical of the range, with bilingual instruction sheet and a clear line drawing showing exactly where all the decals go and if the subjects interest you these sheets can be highly recommended. The full Model Art range can be seen at www.modelaert. com and we thank them for the supplying the review sample.
I “Red 24” RF-95808 – Khmeimin, January 2016. “Red 25” RF-95811 – Khmeimin, late October 2015.
CONCLUSION
This sheet enables you to produce a Fullback without taking up a large amount of shelf space needed in the larger scales. Our thanks to JBR for the sample and this range is now starting to become widely available outside of the Czech Republic including Hannants in the UK.
f you want to cover any Israeli operated aircraft, there is one manufacturer that stands out. Isra Decals have an unrivalled reputation for quality and their new sheet covering the first two Boeing 787-9 operated by El Al.
1/144 SCALE
IAF-105 BOEING 787-9 FOR ZVEZDA KIT Boeing 787-9 4X-EDB. Boeing 787-9 4X-EDA.
CONCLUSION
I am a big fan of Isra sheets and as I already have a Dreamliner in my stash this new sheet one was very welcome. Our thanks
to Isra Decals for the review sample which can be purchased from www.isradecal.com.
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DECALS
Foxbot Decals A
lways wanted to build a 1/32 scheme from Operational fighter but afraid of the amount of space needed? Well, the Meng Me163 may be the answer. The German rocket fighter in 1/32 scale is about the same size as 1/48 scale kit and is impressively detailed. And now thanks to Foxbot Decals you have a selection of operational Luftwaffe schemes as well as captured examples tested by the RAF and Russia.
1/32 SCALE
32-002 ME 163 KOMET Me163B, VF241 W.Nr 191869, RAF. Me163B, Russian Air Force. Me163B,C1+05, EK16, 1943. Me163B-0, PK+QL, Overall red Me163B, +9, JG400, 1944 Me163B, W.Nr440165, 2/KG400,1945 Me163B, White 11,W.Nr163100, 1/ JG400,1944. Me163B, 2./JG400, 1945. Me163B, Yellow 26, W.Nr191916, April 1945.
Syhart Decals A
Me163B, White 18, 2./JG400, 1944 Me163B, White 10, W.Nr190599, 2./ JG400. 1945 Me163B, Yellow 6, W.Nr191316, II/ JG400, 1945 Me163B, Yellow 15, W.Nr191659, II/ JG400, 1945 Me163B, Whitw 1, W.Nr191904,II/ JG400, 1945
CONCLUSION
Bearing in mind how short the service life of the 163 actually was to find no less than 10 different camouflage schemes is quite amazing though I am not sure if the overall red option should really be classed as camouflage! Our thanks to Foxbot for supplying the review samples and I look forward to seeing what they come up with next.
t Telford we caught up with Syhart, this French company have been producing commemorative schemes from around the world. One of the sheets released at Telford covers the scheme applied to celebrate the retirement of the RF-4C Phantom from the Greek Air Force. The instructions are very clear while the decals are beautifully printed.
1/48 SCALE
48-100 RF-4E PHANTOM II 7499 “THE END OF THE FILM” 348MTA HELLENIC AIR FORCE 1953-2017
CONCLUSION
A nice touch is that the manufacturer supplies a choice of either masks or decals for the blue areas on the tail, this is typical of the attention to detail typical of Syhart sheets. And the reason why this manufacturer is so in demand from mainstream kit manufacturers to design their decal sheets. This is a very attractive scheme for the Rhino that really needs to be displayed on a mirror to
show off the underside artwork. Syhart sheets can be ordered direct from the manufacturer at www.syhartdecal.fr and if you like colourful sheets you should defiantly visit their website and we thank Sylvain Hautier for supplying us with the review sample.
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DECALS
Decales Global Decals
T
wo more from Decales Globus this month with two sheets for the Bae 146/RJ-85 commuter airliner one used by American Airline A.S.A a subsidiary of Delta flying connection services to Delta’s regional hubs in the 1980s. The second airline is Airlink from South Africa which still flies the RJ-85 but is due to be replaced in 2019. The final option enables you to build any of Boeing 727100/200 converted for freighter uses by U.P.S in this companies attractive black and gold scheme on a white fuselage. Each sheet is well printed, but there is one thing to be aware of - each sheet has continuous carrier film so you will need to trim closely to the image before application.
a number jungle to produce any UPS 727 aircraft. DG14299 BAE 146-200 ASA/DELTA CONNECTIONS Bae 146-200, N816As DG14524 BAE RJ-85 AIRLINK.COM 1. Bae RJ-85, ZS-ASY
CONCLUSION
To be honest the two airlines covered this month were totally unknown to me and that is one of the joys of this companies’ sheets as they cover airlines and aircraft types not featured anywhere else. To order these decals visit www.joydecals.com We thank Greg Joy for supplying the review samples.
1/144 SCALE
DG14427 U.P.S BOEING 727-100/ 200 Boeing 727-200, N208UP This sheet includes
AOA Decals
T
he second part of AOA’ series mostly covers the Vietnamese Air Force use of the Bird Dog but also has a couple of US Army examples which could not be fitted on to Part 1s decal sheet. And to finish we have two examples operated by the US Marines. The instructions are in A0As normal style and supply everything you need to know with great clarity and this and the preceding sheet are also available in 1/48 scale.
1/32 SCALE
32-019 DOGS OF WAR PART 2 O-1, 41, VMO-6, USMC, 1968, White upper wings O-1, 14, VMO-6, USMC, 1969, White upper wings O-1G, 51-2469, “Swamp Fox” 199 RAC, US Army This aircraft has all the control surfaces painted yellow. O-1G, 51-2227, 199 RAC, US Army, 1970, Day-Glo Orange and white panels on upper surface O-1G, 51-2002, 219 RAC, US Army, 1971,DayGlo Orange and white panels on upper surface
O-1A/G, 51-14764, VNAF O-1A/G, 51-12704, 112 Observation Sqdn, VNAF O-1A/G, 51-12492, 110 Observation Sqdn, VNAF O-1A/G, 51-12382, 112 Observation Sqdn, VNAF, Yellow wing tips. O-1A/G, 51-12829, 112 Observation Sqdn, VNAF O-1A/G, 51-12236, 112 Observation Sqdn, VNAF O-1A/G, 51-12224, Unknown unit, VNAF O-1A/G, 51-15073, 110 Observation Sqdn, VNAF
CONCLUSION
If you have a Roden O-1 this and it’s preceding sheet offers you some interesting alternative markings produced to the highest standards. Our thanks to AOA for supplying the review samples which in the UK can be purchased from Hannants as well as from AOA’s web site which for our American readers also offers free shipping within the United States. www.AOAdecals.com.
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Custom
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KIT REVIEWS
Let L-13 Blanik
Planet Models 1/32 Let L-13 Blanik by John “Tigger” Wilkes MANUFACTURER: Planet Models SCALE: 1/32 TYPE: Resin PARTS: 25 resin, 2 vac-form clear OPTIONS: 2
THE KIT Since 1956, the Czech manufacturer Let has produced the l-13, the most numerous and widely used glider in the world. This aircraft is the subject of this kit build, which hails from the Planet Models stable. I happened to purchase the model at the IPMS UK scale Modelworld kit swap about three years ago, and only just got around to building it. Two years later the same model show became the impetus for me to finally finish it. The kit is all resin, in a light buff colour, and displays fine surface detail. A pair of clear vac-formed canopies is also supplied, along with instructions and a painting and decal guide. Finally, within the stiff top-opening box is a set of some of the best decals I have ever used. There is a choice of a fairly anonymous bird in silver, with red trim, or the one I have modelled, which is in varying tones of metallic finish with red trim and Japanese markings; the best part is that rising sun rudder!
CONSTRUCTION Construction is nice and simple and I used super glue throughout.
I did add some seat belts to the simple cockpit, along with some placard decals from the excellent Airscale range. In order to disguise the seam in the floor of the cockpit, I laid sections of paper cut to size, then dripped thin superglue over it. This soaks in and plasticises the material: once painted there is nothing to indicate that it is anything other than the same material as the rest of the kit. Instruments are a clear film that sits behind a resin part, which needs to have the holes opened up. Painting the back of the film creates the white of the dials. Once this was
completed I closed the fuselage. The one omission from the kit appears to be that there are no rudder pedals, but since I built this model from the box, I didn’t add any (although you may want to). The fit of the slender fuselage was good and I had no issues sealing it all up with thick superglue. This also filled any slight seams, which were then polished out. To add strength to the wing joint, I took the liberty of drilling and adding a wing spar made from Albion Alloys brass rod. I also did the same to the tail fin, just in case. Before the addition of the
wings, the canopy must be fitted, and this, like all vac-formed clear parts, will need to be carefully cut out from its backing sheet. I used a set of high quality scissors to trim as close as possible to the final shape, then with a sanding pad I carefully sanded a little section at a time to get to the final shape. The canopy was then attached with Gator Glue and sealed in place. Once the Gator Glue had dried, a couple of drops of superglue helped fill the gaps in the area around the nose and rear section. At this stage, the canopy was masked and the main wing attached. My addition of a wing spar made a nice, strong joint, and assisted in getting everything in place. Some filling was required at the joint, and after the glue had set I applied Mr. Surfacer 500 in several coats. In between, I gently rubbed a cotton bud soaked with alcohol over the filler to remove any excess. This makes the joint nice and smooth, ready for some paint.
PAINTING AND DECALS Now I cleaned the model in preparation for painting, finishing with a light rub with a tack rag to ensure that the surface was free of grease and dust. I started painting with the internal silver sections of the canopy frames, as I realised they would be visible later on. A coat of Tamiya Fine Surface Primer followed, which was lightly sanded between the first and second coats.
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All of the white areas of the model were painted with Gunze Mr. Colour Lacquer White, thinned with Mr. Levelling Thinner. I took a can of Tamiya TS-13 Silver spray aerosol and decanted some into an old Tamiya paint pot (be careful, as the paint will continue to de-gas for a good 24 hours, so do not seal the lid. I merely place the lid on the bottle, without screwing it down, so any excess pressure will leak out). The next day I airbrushed light dusting coats over the whole model. The resulting finish was delicate but bright. After leaving this to dry overnight, I masked several panels and applied various shades of Alclad, dusting it over the panels to create a patterned appearance. Once satisfied, I went over the entire model with Alclad II gloss varnish, which seals and protects the metallic paints. Application of the decals went smoothly and, as I have said, they were some of the best I have ever
used on any model. They behaved well, although they did need plenty of water to get them into place. Once positioned, I rolled a cotton bud over the top to remove any excess water and get them to settle over the details. The decals are very thin, with good solid colours, and settled down well without the need for any setting solutions. To seal everything I went over the entire model with a clear gloss car lacquer. The finished result was sanded and then polished with micromesh to get the finish you see. Now I removed the masks to reveal the clear sections, before carefully slicing the canopy’s opening panels with a razor blade. Some final weathering was applied using Tamiya panel washes and a couple of passes with MIG pigments. And with that, my L-13 could be called complete and ready for the cabinet.
CONCLUSION
The overall impression is that this is a simple, competent model, which produces a very pleasing replica. I thoroughly enjoyed the three days I spent on this quick project, and can whole-heartedly recommend this as a first resin kit. The shape appears accurate and
in that striking scheme, I am very pleased with the finished result. Well done to Planet Models. I will certainly be building more from this supplier as I have several in my collection ready. My thanks to my wallet for the review sample and to Planet Models for producing such a wonderful kit.
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KIT REVIEWS
The Polish Pride
Arma Hobby 1/72 PZL P.1/II (Second Prototype) by Robert Podkonski (In memory of Wojciech Butrycz) MANUFACTURER: Arma Hobby KIT NO: 73002 SCALE: 1/72 PARTS: 32 light grey and light tan resin, 11 photo-etch, 2 on clear acetate film TYPE: Resin multimedia kit DECAL OPTIONS: 1
T
he characteristic high wing fighters, P.11c and P.7a, built by PZL (Państwowe Zakłady Lotnicze, or National Aircraft Factory), are as legendary in Poland as Spitfires and Hurricanes are in Britain. Although obsolete (at least compared to Bf-109s), at the beginning of the Second World War, Polish pilots flying them recorded a quite impressive number of shot-down enemy aircraft. Jedenastka (“The Eleventh”) and the P.7 were both developments of the first all-metal monoplane fighter designed by the young and talented engineer Zygmunt Puławski, and built in 1929 as the first product of the newlyestablished PZL factory. The airframe proposed by Puławski included all the cutting-edge technologies and aerodynamic inventions of its time. The most important, and also the most recognizable feature of all his subsequent fighters, was the gull-shaped wing that gave the pilot an almost unrestricted field of vision, thanks to its thin, narrow roots that met the fuselage at the pilot’s eye level. This so-called “Polish-” or “Puławski-wing” design was later copied by several manufacturers around Europe, including the Yugoslavian Ikarus, French Loire and Mureaux, and the unorthodox Arsenal-Delanne 10 type. Wings and empennage of the P.1 were covered with corrugated skin that gave
additional structural strength. The shape of the V-type engine cover ”cooperated” aerodynamically with the wings and flat-sided fuselage. Puławski also included in his design the ingenious system of shock absorbers, buried inside the fuselage and connected with the undercarriage by levers and steel wire ties. Some of the above-mentioned aerodynamical advantages were lost when, after the Polish government decided to produce only high-output radial engines in Poland, Puławski had to reconstruct his design to accept engines of that kind. Sometime after, in 1931, Puławski designed another beautiful airframe, the PZL P.8, this time equipped with the V-type Hispano-Suiza 12Mc engine. It did not, however, gave a discernibly better performance and flying characteristics compared to its contemporary radial-engined P.7 type. Development of this variant was not pursued after Puławski lost his life in the fatal accident of his own design, the light amphibious aircraft PZL.12 (PZL-H). Nevertheless, the radial-
engined incarnations of the Puławski’s designs, the P.11s and P.24s, were either bought or licence-built by Turkish, Greek, Romanian, and Bulgarian air forces. The indigenous Romanian fighter, the IAR-80, was also developed around the PZL P.24 fuselage.
THE KIT Among other attractive products in their ever-expanding range, Polish manufacturer Arma Hobby offers 1/48 and 1/72 scale models of almost all the early aeroplanes that feature the Puławski wing. With regard to the PZL P.1 type, one can choose either the first, unpainted prototype or – as I did – the second prototype, sporting civilian registration and a smart red and white paint scheme. There were other differences between these two prototypes, most discernibly the shape of the fin and rudder and the location of the oil coolers. The kit comes in a small, sturdy cardboard top-opening box, adorned with a computer-generated picture of the plane in flight. Parts are packed in three string bags and are protected with a piece of bubble foil. The instruction sheet gives a short description of the plane in Polish and English, as well as clearly drawn assembly steps, depicted as exploded views. A full-colour painting and decalling scheme is also included. Resin parts are perfectly cast and even the smallest details are accurately represented. The characteristic corrugated skinning and ridges on the wing and empennage surfaces are straight and in true-to-scale dimensions. I found only three (!) tiny air bubbles on the model’s parts, which I immediately filled with drops of
CA glue and sanded smooth. The resin itself is of very good quality, workable and modellerfriendly. Casting blocks are generally well thought out and, save for the smallest parts, easy to remove. The main parts’ fit is perfect and the joints need no filling at all. There are adequate and perfectly dimensioned depressions and louvres that make the joints strong enough that they do not need strengthening (however, I recommend putting pieces of wire into them, especially with the wing/fuselage joints). Photo-etched parts include safety belts, the windscreen, pitot, instrument panel (also resin), some levers and wheels that go inside the cockpit, and a tiny eyelet that should be attached to a landing skid (myself, I quickly managed to offer the eyelet to my carpet monster...). There is also a piece of acetate film, with flying instruments and windscreen glazing represented. The decals are well printed, but are a bit too thin and there are only red areas on them. More about this later.
CONSTRUCTION As usual with resin kits, the construction starts with removing the model’s parts from their casting blocks. With the main parts, the process posed no problem at all. A razor saw, a flat jeweller’s file, and a piece of fine sanding paper are the only tools needed. Painting the cockpit and gluing all the tiny bits inside can be a little problematic, as the walls and floor are cast as a whole. One can try to cut off one of the cockpit walls along panel lines, but with some patience, a steady hand, and drops of white glue (or thick transparent
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KIT REVIEWS lacquer), these tiny elements can be put in their places with no need for surgery. The pilot’s seat can be completed and painted before attaching it inside the cockpit; instrument panel likewise. After gluing together the main parts of the fuselage and horizontal empennage, I had to shorten the rudder a bit, as I had (unwittingly) reduced the height of the rear fuselage while removing it from its casting block. Later, comparing it with scale drawings of the airframe, I found that its bottom is not a straight, continuous line at the rear. Next, I attached the wings, again needing no putty. After securing the cockpit opening with a piece of paper towel, I drilled a hole in the area that accepts the cooler and installed my model on a thick wire to serve as a handle and support. I had first sprayed the whole with gray Tamiya primer/surfacer for resin, and as it revealed no imperfections, I decided to start painting my model.
PAINTING (AND THE ACCIDENT…) In order to make my life a bit easier I gave my model a few coats of Tamiya White Primer from the spray can. After it was dry, I masked the red areas. To determine their shape and location, I made a black-and-white xerox of the decal sheet, and after cutting these out with scissors, I just put them on my model. It is important to mask the ”dents” for the white parts of registration letters on the fuselage sides, as there is no white backing in the decals. And then my model fell out of my hands onto the floor and the wings broke off, but fortunately only along the joint line (in hindsight, I would suggest reinforcing the wing/fuselage joint with pieces of wire). Regarding this as a good occasion to paint and decal the
wings and fuselage separately, I airbrushed the appropriate areas with Tamiya Acrylic X-7 Red. After the paint was dry I unmasked my model and started decalling.
DECALS (AND THE DISASTER…) I had learned from build threads on internet forums that the decals in this kit are thin and quite difficult to lay down, so I gave the decal sheet a coat of transparent lacquer. I also prepared bottles of AK Decal Setting Solution and Tamiya Decal Adhesive. Decalling the flat fuselage sides was surprisingly easy, going on with no problem. The wings were a different story. I tried again and again, with copious amounts of setting fluid, to force the decals to settle on the corrugated surface and conform to the ridges, but in the end, they just broke into more or less narrow stripes after they dried. Surely, this was not due to the quality of decals or my handling of them. I think it is just that the undersurfaces are a very complex shape and they push the limits of what decals can achieve. Anyway, now my wings looked horrible. So I decided the only
thing I could do was to handpaint. I used a thin, soft brush and hand-painted all the broken areas – but I had to keep in mind that the paint had to be thick enough to avoid capillary action, making it run between the ridges.
FINAL BITS From this point, finishing my model was a breeze. I prepared and painted all the remaining parts white, i.e. propeller blades, struts, undercarriage legs and wheels, and the tail skid. Tyres were painted Tamiya AS-4 Grauviolet, as on the photos of the actual aircraft these do not look black. All these parts fit perfectly in their appropriate places, except that the locating pins on the struts needed to be removed to keep the dihedral of the wings and empennage right. The instructions tell you to make undercarriage wires from pieces of stretched sprue, but in order to avoid painting them, I made them from thin wire instead. The disaster with decals forced me to represent the aeroplane with marks of wear and tear. I made some exhaust streaks with dusted graphite, and delicately outlined panel lines with a sharpened pencil; here and there, however, I washed some Tamiya Light Gray Panel Line Accent Color. I now dry-brushed Testors silver paint on to the propeller blades, cockpit rim, and undercarriage legs.
Some dirt was also added to the wheels and tyres with Tamiya Gray and Brown Panel Line washes and AMMO by Mig AMIG3513 Starship Filth Oilbrusher. Finally, I attached the photo-etched windscreen. Instead of using the acetate film for the windscreen, I glazed it with Micro Kristal Klear white glue. The last things to add were the silver painted pitot probe and step, and my model was finished.
CONCLUSION
No doubt, this is a superb model kit and I wholeheartedly recommend it to everyone, especially to those modellers who want to try his/her first resin kit. Just get a razor saw, a few small diameter drills, and a flat jeweller’s file, and start building. For those who are a bit fainthearted, I would recommend making the model as the first prototype of the PZL P.1, as this was natural metal overall with no markings (no decals!). However, I think my version looks far more attractive, though a lot harder to paint and decal – but the choice is yours. My thanks to Arma Models for giving me the chance to build this attractive model. I have already received the 1/72nd scale PZL. P.8/I model kit from Arma Hobby and cannot wait to start my build – especially as the P.8 has smooth skin, so no tricky corrugations!
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KIT REVIEWS
Whitley GR. Mk VII
Airfix 1/72 Armstrong Whitworth Whitley GR. Mk VII by Carmel J Attard MANUFACTURER: Airfix SCALE: 1/72 KIT NO: A09009 TYPE: Injection moulded, new tooling PARTS: 180 DECAL OPTIONS: 2
T
he Armstrong Whitworth Whitley was an RAF twin-engine bomber in service at the outbreak of the Second World War. It was a vital part of Bomber Command prior to the introduction of the four-engine heavy bombers, and in fact took part in the first RAF bombing raids on German territory. It also performed many leaflet dropping sorties during night-time operations. The Whitley was a slow machine, with docile handling characteristics and a ceiling of just 15,000ft. With the emergence of bigger and better bombers, the Whitley continued to serve with the RAF Coastal Command or as a glider tug and transport machine. Whitleys flew nearly 9,000 sorties with Bomber Command, performing its important role in the early stages of night bombing operations over enemy territory.
THE KIT For various reasons, a good kit of the Whitley bomber has been on my wish list for a long time. Mentioning the Whitley brings back to my mind three past experiences in connection with the title. Way back in summer 1969, during my study/work phase at Parkfield Foundries in Stocktonon Tees, I met a lathe-turner by the name of Mr. Metcalf, who used to turn heavy marine engine flywheels made of Meehanite cast iron. He related to me an account of 30 years earlier when he was a trained tail gunner on a Whitley bomber. The aircraft was lost during the very
first day of bombing operations over Germany when it was hit by flak fire; he survived the parachute jump but spent the whole of the war as a POW. Secondly, a late close friend of mine, ex-flight sergeant R.Elliott, had his cottage named after the Whitley bomber. Finally, the name reminds me of picturesque Whitley Bay in the North East, where I visited a number of times during my time there. Prior to the release of the recent Airfix Whitley kit, I had the nerve to examine a pristine old Frog Whitley that for a long time had been among my stock. It had poor quality transparencies and other deformities so it never made it to the workbench. Now, with the release of the newtool Airfix Whitley it, I finally had the opportunity to add a model of the faithful bomber to my model collection. And as this new kit offers the option to build a Whitley Mk. V tug, I also had the opportunity to
use the surplus solid nose, tail blank parts, and a spare canopy to upgrade my other, older Frog kit, doing away with that kit’s poor transparencies.
THE KIT The Airfix Whitley kit comes in an eye-catching box, the art depicting a Whitley maritime bomber tracking an Axis submarine caught on the ocean surface below. The kit’s contents are attached to five grey sprues, with an additional two sprues for clear parts. The grey parts have a mix of fine, recessed panel lines and raised detail, and all are flash free. There are crystal clear canopy options, and the forward and aft turrets are of appreciable thickness with fine framework detail. Separating and cleaning the parts needed minimal work. The intricate detail on the main parts, and the nicely shaped and tapered trailing edges of the wings (with smooth round leading edges that gradually reduce towards the wing tips), is something to be admired, as is the fine ripple effect on the wing surfaces. Dry fitting of parts reveal the accuracy of the mould-making
process, which produces a close fit of every component. Care taken during assembly means that little filler, if any, is needed on the model. All of the sprues are marked with a small identification letter to go with each part number marked on the instructions. To easily spot the particular sprue needed as the assembly went along (particularly when picking small parts), I found it practical to attach a piece of tape with a large identification letter to each one. The kit contains 162 parts in grey styrene and 18 parts in clear. The first of the two kit options is for a coastal Command Mk VII of No 502 (Ulster) Squadron, where the Whitley is finished in dark slate grey and sea grey camouflage to all upper surfaces, with white undersides. Alternatively, one can pick an Mk V belonging to BOAC, a civilian registered Whitley, G-AGDY. This is finished in wartime
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camouflage of dark earth and dark green upper surfaces, with aluminium undersides. Two fourview colour plans show the pattern of camouflage and the placement of decals for each colour scheme. The 16 pages of very clear instructions are in five languages and have 79 stages of construction, each containing detailed isometric views in shades of grey, highlighted in red at selected areas. Extra parts for the transport version consist of blanking parts to go in place of the turret areas. One has to decide at an early stage which version to be built. For example, if one chooses version A, which refers to the Mk VII Maritime bomber, there is a complete set of ASV antennas all around the fuselage. The instructions indicate the exact marked spots where to drill through to attach these aerials, using a 0.9 mm hand drill. These are fixed at a later stage, before paintwork.
CONSTRUCTION Assembly starts with fitting and painting the cockpit interior parts and other items that go inside the fuselage. The kit also offers the option to assemble the two entry doors open or closed, and supplies two ladders of different lengths, giving scope for a dispersal area diorama. I chose to close the doors and found that Part C22 needed just a little scraping in order to fit flush with the fuselage. There are some small areas that require you to follow the instructions
carefully; for instance, in Stage 33, when it comes to fit Part 33 you must ensure that the longer leg of the component is on the left. Such a small step is easy to overlook. Another example is when it comes to the rear bomb bay area: the instructions suggest that the bay doors can be posed with half of the bay doors open, while the other can remain closed. If you do choose to have them open, there are some faint ejector marks visible on the surface, though a little light sanding will remove them. The main wheel doors are supplied in two versions, one for a dropped undercarriage and one with the gear retracted. The flaps can also be posed dropped or raised; this nice touch adds a little life to the model if you pose them lowered. Generally speaking, the construction of the model consists of several initial sub-assemblies: the forward fuselage, complete with the fully detailed cockpit; rear main fuselage with interior floor; mid-wing main structure, complete with a fully detailed bomb bay; two engine nacelles, complete with propellers; and two separate turrets. There is also the option to fit either regular bombs or submarine bombs inside. As for the undercarriage, I made use of SAC landing gear set 72115, which I found advantageous in several respects. Other than retaining the accuracy of the plastic kit parts, their big advantage is that the metal legs are very strong. During the continual handling of
the kit during painting, I doubt that they would have survived intact if I had used the plastic kit parts. One other advantage is that the white metal is very ductile. This allows the legs that hold the huge wheels to bend until the wheel is inserted, then the leg can be easily straightened back to its original shape. Using the plastic legs, one may have to struggle and run the risk of breaking the hub that goes in the centre of wheel leg. The metal legs plug into the nacelle interior structure in the same manner as if the kit ones are used. A couple of RAF crew airmen from other Airfix kits were donated to man my Whitley’s pilot and navigator positions.
COLOURS AND MARKINGS My choice fell on the maritime version named earlier, a Whitley GR Mk VII of No 502 Squadron. For the interiors, I used Humbrol 78 Interior Green and followed the instructions to decorate the cockpit parts. I then masked the clear parts of the completed model and sprayed it with Model Master Semi-gloss White on all undersides, fins, and rudders. Allowing this to dry thoroughly, I masked off the lower areas with Tamiya tape before the top surfaces were airbrushed in Humbrol 31 Matt Dark Slate Grey. Areas of slate grey were then masked using the plasticine method, and extra dark sea grey was airbrushed using Humbrol HX6 (from the long discontinued Authentic Colours range). Next, the kit was given a coat of Johnson’s Klear prior to application of decals. The lights on the port leading edge have two tiny
depressions on the inside. These were filled with two drops of bright silver paint, and really looked their part when the light cover was gently inserted in place and secured with a touch of Klear. The Whitley had 16 small, elongated windows on the side and top of the fuselage, and Airfix supply these as strips on the clear sprue; however, many may prefer to do away with the clear parts and apply Kristal Klear instead. Like all recent Airfix kits, decals that come with the kit are of top quality and very strong, which was handy when it came to manipulating the red lettering around the ASV antennas. Finally, the kit was given a coat of semi-gloss lacquer, giving a smooth, even sheen overall, and I was very pleased with the final look of my Whitley.
CONCLUSION
In view of the many parts and careful assembly required at every stage of construction, I would say that this kit is suitable for the average modeller with a few smaller kits under his or her belt. And of course, this kit makes by far the best Whitley bomber ever produced in plastic and is highly commended. My thanks to Airfix for giving me the chance to build this beautiful model.
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KIT REVIEWS
Fw 190A-5 Light Fighter Eduard 1/72 Weekend Edition Fw 190A-5 Light Fighter by John Bank MANUFACTURER: Eduard SCALE: 1/72 TYPE: New Version PARTS: 64 plastic, 4 clear MARKING OPTIONS: 2
D
uring World War Two, it was common for many allied squadrons to adopt captured aircraft or vehicles for use by squadron personnel. Often painted in bright or garish colours, these planes kept men busy while waiting for rotation back home. Mechanics of the 325th FG restored a captured Focke Wulf 190A-5 to flight status and gave it a colourful bright blue and red coat of paint. For a short period of time, pilots had a toy to hot-rod around in, and all had a backdrop for souvenir photographs to send home.
THE KIT This is Eduard’s Weekend Edition kit, which is the same basic kit as the other kits in their 1/72 scale family. It is crisply molded, and adds revised details for an A-5 airframe. The kit contains two very nicely printed, and very attractive, marking choices using Eduard house decals, which have good registration and opacity. While the kit contains no photo-etch, resin,
or masks, it loses nothing in this regard. The plastic parts are well detailed and fit superbly. Seat belts and instruments for the cockpit are provided on the decal sheet, and these fit well. If one chooses to use the seat belts, it is a good idea to leave the decal on the backing paper to provide a bit of depth.
CONSTRUCTION This is a simple kit to build, but the usual caveats with modern Eduard
kits apply here. Test-fit the parts and be aware that a simple coat of paint can affect proper parts fit. I found using a spreader bar at the rear of the cockpit tub helped with the wing to fuselage joint. If care is taken with test-fitting, no filler will be required with this kit. The only likely issue I can see with this kit is the fit of the landing gear legs in the wheel wells. I found using a jig helps set the proper angle for the legs
and makes assembly much easier. As is usual for me, I replaced the gun barrels and the pitot with Albion Alloys tubing. I also decided to add seat belts, which I made from thin plastic sheet cut to shape. The aerial, attached between canopy and tail, is made from Uschi’s regular stretchable line.
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KIT REVIEWS HAND PICKED FO Rpicked 2018 Hand
Andrew Rawlinsom
CONCLUSION
Job Number:
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SAM Publications
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This Weekend Edition kit truly is one that can be completed in a weekend, and I can foresee building several more of them over the next few years. This weekend edition is very highly recommended and I thank Eduard for supplying the review sample for me to build.
Date:
Signed-off by:
1:32
Insert Date:
DECALS As I wanted to produce a captured Fw-190, I had planned on using Karaya decals, as they have produced four sheets on this subject. Unfortunately, Karaya had not provided all the markings carried by this plane, and though I had some spare national markings that would do, I wanted to be sure the blue matched the rudder markings. It was a simple thing to lay out and cut stencils for the markings. For the main colours, I used GSI Mr. Color lacquers. These dry very quickly and all painting was completed in just a day. I then applied some light weathering, using enamel washes and pastels, to finish my model.
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REVELL_SAM_Mustang_Mosq_Phant_Vert_65x290 .pdf
“THIS WEEKEND EDITION KIT TRULY IS ONE THAT CAN BE COMPLETED IN A WEEKEND”
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for 2016
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SAVOIA MARCHETTI S.79
BY DEJ DI VRIES BYSACCO STEPHEN NUCCI
The
ELECTRIC MAN
ONE
Airfix 1/72 Savoia Marchetti S.79 Sparviero Serie II Bomber by Stephen J Di Nucci Photographs: Phil Jones and Stephen J Di Nucci
INTRODUCTION
T
he Savoia Marchetti S.79 was one of several large three-engine bomber and transport types designed by the Italians during the 1930s. Pre-war public opinion had been carefully groomed, both in Italy and abroad, through a number of world-record flights by “civilian” types, at the end of which the S.79 gained an impressive reputation for distance and speed flying. During the Spanish Civil War, it began to also develop its reputation as a bomber, where it was almost impervious to interception. Although many believed that this was due to its performance, in truth it was also due to the quality of the available fighter opposition.
Unfortunately for the Italians, this belief persisted into the Second World War, even when the performance of fighter aircraft across Europe moved rapidly ahead of that of bombers. Nevertheless, the aircraft was a stable weapons platform and could absorb battle damage, and before long, in its final and best role as a torpedo bomber, it was the scourge of the Royal Navy in the Mediterranean. In order to provide dorsal accommodation for both forward (attack) and rear (defence) guns, it had been necessary to spoil the earlier sleek airliner design with a humped fairing. This soon drew the nickname “Il Gobbo” (Hunchback), or even “Il Gobbo Maledetto”. The British called it the “Damned Hunchback”.
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“THE SAVOIA MARCHETTI S.79 WAS ONE OF SEVERAL LARGE THREEENGINE BOMBERS DESIGNED BY THE ITALIANS DURING THE 1930S”
Officially, it was named the “Sparviero” (Sparrowhawk). Regarding the S.79 designation; many people, myself included, use “SM.79” freely on a casual basis. The aircraft was of course designed by Alessandro Marchetti, but his name was not added to the company title until 1937, and therefore aircraft are properly designated “S.” or “SM.”, depending on the date of the design, which was 1933 in the case of the Sparviero.
THE KITS This, the most important Italian aircraft of World War Two, was bereft of much in the way of plastic attention for many years, and even now there is still room for more in 1/72 scale. At present, the injection moulded choices remain only the Airfix kit, first produced in1967, and that from Italeri in 2003. The Airfix kit is long out of production, being last produced in
2004, and the Italeri kit has at times been unavailable in the UK. Fortunately, the Airfix kit is still not too hard to locate amongst traders who sell pre-owned kits. If you don’t have a copy, try to obtain one from the earlier batches, moulded in pale blue polystyrene; some of the later production batches are in a bigger box, and were produced in a horrible, grey plastic, which is brittle and very prone to flaking.
WHAT YOU NEED The Airfix kit is able to produce an excellent result with a little work, but it does have more than a few problems; for example, 14-cylinder two-row engines, when in fact, 9-cylinder singlerow engines are required. Only slightly wrong! Its most annoying weakness, however, is a tendency
for the main-gear legs to fracture just above the wheel axles. The cockpit canopy is also very thick, but in terms of its frame lines it is actually better than the newer Italeri kit! The engine cowlings are too big and are simplistically shaped. There is no attempt to replicate the fabric covering of the rear fuselage and control surfaces. Airfix have done nothing more than to represent the positions of the attachments of the fabric using raised “panel” lines; I decided to do no more than to give these an ultra-light sanding to change their profile slightly from half-round to flat-batten. The front fuselage of the actual aircraft was skinned in metal; Airfix
have again used raised lines for this panel detail, but the modeller can easily rescribe this small area. The wings were of timber construction, and here Airfix have really overdone it; the wings are covered in stacks of raised lines – not a suitable representation for an aircraft skinned in plywood, which has been bonded and sanded smooth. Here we can be grateful for the raised lines, as they are much easier to eradicate. One authoritative source records that the wing had a final covering of fabric, although parts of the wing undersurface were apparently not so covered. The kit’s control surfaces are quite good, with separate elevators and rudder.
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On the wings, only the ailerons are separate; S.79s had drooping ailerons, which were used to supplement the flaps. The aircraft also had leading edge Handley Page-type slats, which were linked to the flaps and automatically dropped when the flaps were extended. Images of operational S.79s on the ground with their slats and flaps extended are hard to come, by but they do exist: see page 18 of Ali D’Italia no. 11; also page 6 of Savoia Marchetti S.79 In Action, published by Squadron/Signal. If you wish to open up the slats and flaps accurately, you will have to consider using two Airfix kits: one to supply the flaps and slats and the second to provide the wing structure. Additionally, I used some parts from an Italeri S.79, a kit that I had previously cannibalised, although I tried to use Airfix only components wherever possible. My only real departure from this goal was the main undercarriage, courtesy of Italeri. I also used parts from a Supermodel S.81that supplied the cone-shaped “engine bearers”. No need to be too aghast at this; the kit features two different sets of engines and bearers, so you will still be able to build an S.81 from the remains. Production of the S.79 was split up into batches and spread around several manufacturing partners, but all production can be summarized as Serie I, Serie II and Serie III. The Airfix kit has a single Lewis 7.7 mm gun for the waist armament, which helps to put it in the Serie I bracket; only the earliest S.79s had the Lewis gun (Spanish Civil War machines, for example). Note also that Serie I machines had a different set-up for their bomb bay doors. Serie II represents the standard bomber and torpedo-bomber, whilst Serie III, also referred to as the S.79 bis, was the post-armistice torpedo-bomber used by the Aviazione Nazionale Republicana operating out of Northern Italy. Producing a Serie II model from the Airfix kit requires an armament update in the waist positions, plus a gun in the gondola, as Airfix don’t provide one. Producing a
Serie III model just requires the deletion of the ventral gondola. Fortunately, there are enough aftermarket items around to support the kit. Absolutely essential is the replacement canopy and hump supplied by Falcon in their Set No. 20, designed specifically for the Airfix kit (available from Hannants, £12.99. Ed). This canopy is a fabulous item and is capable of catapulting the kit into the something-special category. The Falcon canopy represents the best reason for choosing Airfix’s version of the S.79. Eduard also produce etched sets for the exterior and interior, 72 406 and 72 415, which are designed for the Italeri kit but are also of great use here; I consider them to be must-haves. My model was started before these items came on the scene, so for early construction I used Eduard’s original etched brass for the Airfix S.79, 72 063. This set dated from 1992, so is one of Eduard’s earliest sets and is no longer available. However, 72 406 and 72 415 have virtually everything that 72 063 ever did, and much more, so no problem there. In more recent times, Eduard has made more changes to its line-up for the S.79. 72 415 is now reduced in its content but two more sets have been released, 72 457 and 73 280, the latter of which now holds Eduard’s prepainted instrument panel. I also obtained a resin set from Pavla (U 72-46), which offers replacement engines and weighted wheels (more later), and Quickboost’s set QB 72 106, which gives corrected engine cowlings. Eduard’s canopy mask set CX033 was used too, but I knew this would only provide a starting point, as the set wasn’t designed for the Falcon canopy. Finally, serious modelling of Italian S.79s requires a copy of Sky’s jam-packed 1/72-scale decal sheet for the S.79, number 72-003, from which I intended to source the famous “Electric Man” badge of 193 Squadriglia – but read on.
PREPARING THE FUSELAGE HALVES It was obvious right from the start that the interior was going to provide a challenge and a fairly fragile construction (at least until the fuselage halves were joined), due to the fact that the Sparviero was bereft of much in the way of structural bulkheads. The overall structure of the S.79 was based upon welded steel tubes. I began by removing the location ribs moulded inside the fuselage halves, including the ribs around the crew access door, as I planned to display the door open. If you want to use the Falcon canopy, the upper “hump” decking needs to be razor-sawn away. It is a good idea to remove the Falcon canopy from its carrier sheet at this point, and prepare it after temporarily joining the fuselage halves with tape; at this early stage, it will be a lot easier to test fit and adjust its location on top of the chopped fuselage.
I decided to add some location ribs from very fine strip all along the cut edges of the hump, mounted slightly inboard. These will eventually be used to locate the canopy and keep its edges splayed apart, although much later I realised I should have allowed a little more for the thickness of the canopy’s acetate. You will notice that Falcon’s dorsal hatch does not reach quite as far along the fuselage as it does on Airfix’s plastic. Falcon have it correct, so I cut a section from the Airfix Part 33, and used it to extend the fixed part of the Airfix top decking forward by nearly 4 mm. If you require the bomb bay doors to be displayed open, this area will also need to be cut out now. But do not forget that the bomb bay is offset to the right because of the internal crew access walkway along the left side of the fuselage. Also in this area, the ventral
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teardrop moulding needs removing; the length is correct, but it needs to be fatter. Later I replaced it with a suitable bomb-half from the spares box, but note that the extreme end tip of the fairing continues onto the surface of one of the bomb-bay doors. At the front end, I removed the first 3 mm of the mouldings, plus the centre engine mounting collar; on the real aircraft there’s a noticeable step at this point, like a ruff around the neck of a lizard, which Airfix have missed. A rarely noted detail at the other end is the tail-cone fairing; the lower half of the cone was often discarded, although why is hard to say – it may simply be that it was prone to damage or to the collection of debris. The area to be removed is along a level just below the tail navigation light, and on a vertical just to the rear of the tailwheel housing. One source seems to suggest
that the roof of the tailwheel bay was plated over. I did so, but rightly or wrongly, I left the area behind the tailwheel itself open. Airfix’s simplified tailwheel location works quite well, but if you want to fit a proper tailwheel arm you’ll need to widen the recess (I used a spare Italeri tailwheel on my model). I now cut out the two rectangular windows, on the underside, one on each side of the gondola; again, these are missing from the Airfix kit. With consignments into the waste bin over, I could start construction proper. I started by fixing some microrod to represent the long structural tube that runs internally along both sides, from front to rear. These run just below the cockpit windows and along the seating of the dorsal hatch. I then cut and fitted a couple of large plain blanks of 10 thou plasticard, cut to fit hard up against the line of the new “tubing”, as far back as the front post of the entry door. These blanks serve to seal off the wing root voids. This basic plain interior now became my new canvas, and with suitable references to hand it was a pleasant job to fit out the inside of
the fuselage shells, replicating the tubular structure of the original, using more microrod. Less pleasant was the cutting and fitting of umpteen pieces of microstrip to represent the horizontal battens to which the fabric walls were attached. The small windows in the rear fuselage can be fitted at this time, and their inside surfaces masked for later spraying. I decided to install a false ceiling in the rear cabin, using a curved section of 10 thou plasticard, for two reasons: one, to hide the centerline fuselage join when viewed from the inside, and two, to act as a base to fit more microrod tubing in the ceiling. At the same time, I also fitted a false floor to the rear of the gondola, for the same reasons.
FITTING OUT THE INTERIOR The Airfix cockpit floor is too long. I shortened the floor by cutting off the rear section, leaving a floor of only 38 mm in length. Eduard’s old set 72 064 included flooring detail, which I used to face over the floor, but the floor could easily be detailed instead by simply scribing on some closely spaced crossways ribbing. The Airfix bulkhead Part 9 is
a bit of a construct; in reality, the only bit of Part 9 to be found on the actual aircraft was the left side. I decided to instead use a spare Italeri bulkhead, which suffers similarly. I made an executive decision to keep much of this fictitious area, as I intended to replicate some of the arched structural tubing in the ceiling area, and I thought that it would be handy to have something to build this on. I also intended to build the radio equipment on the right side. Next, I thinned down the bulkhead, Airfix Part 10, and sanded off the doorway detail. I also cut off everything below floor level and shaped the bulkhead to match Eduard 72 415, Part 39, and then butt-fitted it into place at the aftermost end of the floor. Still at the aftermost end of the floor, but now beneath it, I shaped and fitted a plasticard bulkhead to serve as the front face of the lower bomb bay space. A start can now be made on the Eduard items. I started with the equipment and I found that a couple of the items have too much depth. With hindsight, I might have done better to have used only the faces of Parts 32 and 33,
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and then cut a thinner “body” using plasticard to fit behind. Eduard’s metal parts are, as usual, superb, and I found that most parts bend and assemble precisely. Care must always be taken, though, to support all surfaces whilst bending is in progress. It is beyond the scope of this feature to describe the bending and fitting of every piece from Eduard’s frets, but some comment might be helpful regarding some of the remaining Airfix components: the pilots’ seats are reasonably well shaped and useable and just need belts, but note that Italian bomber crews were generally not given shoulder harnesses. I used the Airfix control columns, but Parts 8, 21, and 28 will not be required. As well, if you use the Falcon replacement canopy, Airfix Parts 16, 17, 25, and 32 will also not be required, and the rest of Part 33 can be scrapped after the modifications noted earlier. All these bits can take up residence in the spares box, as can the in-box torpedo and support cradles if, like me, you plan to model a straight bomber.
FITTING OUT THE BOMB BAY
were housed within individual cylindrical metal jackets called cestelli (crates or baskets). These too were loaded up into the bay from below, because each time the size of the bomb load was changed, the cestelli required changing too. The strength required to support the weight of the bombs was provided by a complicated tubular structure immediately beneath the bomb bay’s dorsal hatch. There is no sign whatever of this in the Airfix kit. While the Italeri kit deals with this structure via a one-piece moulding, the Eduard set takes the modeler a lot further onwards. A feature of this structure is an elevated ground crew walkway on the left side of the aircraft, and Eduard provide this (Part 6). Eduard also provide a similar walkway for the right side, but my references indicate that there was no walkway on the right side. I discarded the walkway on that side, but the zig-zag frame is still required and must be added. In reality, however, this area is far more complex even than Eduard suggests (I purchased two copies of Eduard to provide sufficient parts). A lot more daylight should show through from top
to bottom, so I didn’t use Eduard Part 10 as designed, but instead separated the section with the seven smaller holes, carefully removed the five (three-pointed) bomb hangers and discarded the rest. The whole tubular support structure is attached to the sides of the upper fuselage. I used Plastruct microrod of 0.6 mm (0.5 mm would have been better had I been able to find any) and 0.3 mm thicknesses for this. The microrod had first to be cut and built upon a homemade paper template so as to get the alignments correct before it could be added to the model. Note that the ends of the rearmost structural tubes are tucked away below the ceiling of the rear cabin, terminating just ahead of an emergency fuel tank (38 litres), which is of cylindrical shape with banding; easily made from scrap. I also added a fuel pipe. Italian fuel related equipment was painted yellow. With the upper part of the bomb bay completed, we can now look at the cestelli. Eduard provides cestelli for loading five 250 kg bombs. Eduard’s supply these as five metal flats that have to be rolled in order to form the five cestelli cylinders,
which are then fitted into two holding frames (Part 41). Getting good results from this sounded difficult to me, so instead I made my own cestelli by cutting lengths from 6 mm diameter aluminum tube (though 5 mm tube might fit better with the Eduard parts). My references suggest that each cestelli was of two parts – a fixed lower cylinder and a shorter upper cylinder, which it seems was adjustable, possibly for bombloading purposes. Eduard’s cestelli are 16 mm tall, whereas mine are 10 mm and 5 mm tall (with a space between of nearly 2 mm). I made my cestelli by cutting 5 x 10 mm lengths of tube, superglued them together and then built the retaining banding around them. I did the same with the 5 x 5 mm upper cestelli. It was essential that the two groups were precisely aligned one above the other, so I used the bombs that I eventually would load into my cestelli as a guide. There are no bombs supplied in the Airfix or Italeri kits, so I robbed some Italian-style bombs from the Supermodel Cant Z.1007 kit – however, there are only four 250 kg bombs in the Supermodel kit, so if you want five bombs you’ll need two kits (sorry!), or make some yourself resin home-mould copies. By the way, Supermodel’s bombs were too long to fit inside my 6 mm cestelli and they had to be both shortened and reduced in circumference to fit. The bomb hangers were separated from Eduard Part 10 and added across the top ends of the upper cestelli. The bombs were loaded in from below until they touched the undersurface of the hangers. Make sure to make no mistakes in this area because if any bombs get jammed in the cestelli you will be up the Appian Way without a paddle! (Mixed metaphors!). I had little information on the appearance of Italian fuses, so I finished the noses of the bombs with a small flat and a drilled fuse hole.
That it is for this month, next time I will finish detailing, and cover the painting and decaling of my Sparviero.
The S.79 carried its bombs vertically. They were hung from above, either by the nose in the case of 500 kg (two carried), and 250 kg (five carried) weapons, or from the tail in the case of 100 kg (twelve carried) weapons. They were loaded with a hand winch, which was temporarily mounted on top of the structure beneath the dorsal hatch, which was held open with a stay for the purpose. The winch pulled the bombs upwards from the ground, through the open bomb bay doors, and into the bay. The bombs
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LA-7
BY DE VRIES BYSACCO VITOR COSTA
Soviet
SHARPSHOOTER
Vitor Costa shows you how to paint and weather the 1:72 Eduard La-7 using Hataka products
U SPONSORED FEATURE
sually, I don’t like reboxings, where brands try to sell ‘old’ kits inside ‘modern’ wrappers. However, Eduard is the exception, as their re-boxings always contain some neat extras such as etched parts, resin upgrades and new decals. This build features such kit, their 1:72 La-7 ‘Weekend Edition’. Inside the box, which incidentally has some wonderful artwork, are two injection moulded sprues, with really nice engraved panel lines, a set of pre-painted etch, a canopy mask, and an excellent decal sheet eight possible options to choose from.? As usual, the
build began with the cockpit, which is pretty basic but is lifted to a new level by the addition of the pre-painted etch. I coloured the ‘office’ with Hataka Light Gull Grey before applying an oil wash to add some wear followed by some dry brushing to pick out the details. I then affixed the coloured etch using Superglue, before joining the fuselage halves together. The fit here was not perfect, a small amount of putty was needed on the upper surface, however on the undersides, copious amounts of filler were required to level the join with the wing, I also had to attach two
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Sponsored by Hataka Hobby
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The cockpit benefitted from some Eduard precoloured etch.....
....and was suitably painted and detailed
“FOR THIS BUILD I’M USING HATAKA ORANGE LINE COLOURS, AND IN PARTICULAR ELEMENTS FROM THEIR LATE WORLD WAR II SOVIET AIR FORCE PAINT SET HTK-CS20”
KIT DETAILS There were a few gaps to fill on the undersides..... strips of plastic sheet to fill a huge gap near the engine. There are also some sink marks that needed to be filled. The windshield also needs some putty to fill some minor gaps, and here I used Deluxe Materials Perfect Plastic Putty. After a quick tidy up here and there, I was ready to paint. For this build, I’m using Hataka Orange Line colours, and in particular elements from their Late World War II Soviet Air Force Paint Set HTK-CS20, and I must confess that I really like them! I began with the lighter shades, and first I applied a coat of AMT-7 Grey-Blue on the undersides, and once dry I used a little White to start the initial weather effects. Then I added a little thinned White to some
....but less on the upper surfaces.... of the panel lines to simulate worn paint, applied in the direction of the airflow. The idea was to create different shades of the original colour. Once dry I applied another coat of the Grey-Blue with just a touch of Black, to simulate shadows. With the undersides painted, it was time for the upper surface camouflage, and I began with a coat of AMT-11 Blue-Grey, followed by the same weathering techniques that I had used on the undersides. When this was dry I added AMT12 Dark Green as the disruptive camouflage colour, and once dry, this too was suitably weathered. The nose section was then masked off and painted with C-103 Traffic Red Once dry, the model was given a coat of Hataka Gloss Varnish
MANUFACTURER: EDUARD SCALE: 1:72 KIT TYPE: PLASTIC INJECTION MOULDED
WITH ETCH AND RESIN PARTS KIT NUMBER: 7066
...where Deluxe Materials Perfect Plastic Putty was very useful
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The undersides were painted with The upper surfaces recived a to protect the paintwork, and Hataka AMT-7 Grey-Blue and White coat of AMT-11 Blue-Grey...... prepare the surface for the decals, the ones supplied in this kit were excellent and really easy to apply. I let them dry for a day and then added another Gloss coat to seal them in. Next, I used a bespoke oil wash over the entire airframe and then set about carefully removing the excess, again always working in the direction of the airflow using a soft cloth. You can remove as much or as little as you like to achieve your desired finish. ...and a disruptive pattern of The metallic plates that AMT-12 Dark Green... ...and the paintwork cover the engine were then was subtly faded masked off and painted with Aluminium. Once everything had completely dried, I added a coat of Hataka Matt Varnish. To simulate even more weathering effects, and as camouflage consisted of two Greys and a Dark Green, I had to use something more than White and Black oil paints for the highlight and shadows. So I used a Green shade to give some sprayed to simulate the exhausts different tones on the Dark Grey, as ‘less is sometimes more’. For from the exhaust pipes. Some dark to create a faded and worn look, the antennae, I used Ushi Van pigments were also added too to and to simulate shadows, I used Der Rosten Rigging Line. The give texture to the dirt, and these Dark Blue on the corners and in the navigation lights were then painted were built up in several thin layers. recessed areas. Next small oil dots using clear red and blue over a Silver At this stage I added all of the were then applied in places where base. Finally, I added some Dark smaller items such as the wheels dirt would accumulate, and these Earth pigments on the wheels undercarriage doors and such. were dragged and blended with Once these were all firmly attached the wide brush damp with White I applied some scratches on the Spirit, again in the direction of the propeller blades, using a Silver airflow. Next, some Raw Umber was I am a big fan of World War II pencil. Next Aquarelle pencils added to the areas that would see Soviet aircraft, and I really like were used to add subtle scratches wear and tear as the maintenance their colourful schemes, and the on the airframe, and I must stress personnel worked on the aircraft. Hataka paints really suited this The nose was masked off and painted Traffic Red that you need to be careful here, Hataka Night Black was then build, which I hope you enjoy.
CONCLUSION
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The decals worked perfectly... ...as you can see
The metallic plates that cover the engine were then masked off and painted with Aluminium
Next I used a bespoke oil wash over the entire airframe
Detailing the undercarriage
Adding Ushi Van Der Rosten Rigging Line
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! NOW OUT
M O D E L L I N G
G U I D E
Created with
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M O D E L L I N G
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Fighters & Attack Aircraft of the
Vietnam War
and Attack Aircraft of the Vietnam War’ is the first in a new series of books, and features no fewer than 20 build projects, which guide you through building such iconic aircraft as the F-4 Phantom, F-8 Crusader, B-57 Canberra, MiG-21 and F-100 Super Sabre, to name but a few. Brought to you by some of the best modellers around, each project shows you ‘how-to’ apply camouflage, add detail to the airframes, and looks at such areas as cockpits, weathering, decaling and painting ordnance, and details of the war roles of each type. This new book will be an invaluable resource for anyone interested in modern combat aircraft, and particularly those involved in the Vietnam War!
AIR KRAFT 1 MODELLING GUIDE
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BOOKWORLD wholesale
Airframe Album 12
The Gloster Gladiator. The twelfth title in the Airframe Album series is an essential companion for anyone tackling Gladiator kits in all scales and complexity.Contents include a wealth of historical photographs; period detail images and diagrams; 3D isometric views, colour profiles by Richard J. Caruana; at least 128 pages
£17.95
Airbrushing and Weathering Techniques.
The information in this book is the result of nearly twenty years working with Vallejo acrylic colors and auxiliary products and is meant to be used as a guide and reference. Chapters include Air brushes and Airbrushing Model Air Colours, Acrylic Surface Primer, Airbrushing Model Air Techniques, Basic Weathering Techniques, Advanced Weathering Techniques, Decals and Varnishes, Diorama-Vignette Bases and Stone Textures, Creating Wet and Water Effects Gallery, FAQ with Tips and Tricks, Colour Charts.
£22.99
Encyclopedia of aircraft 5. Airlift Force RAF Transport Introducing the Fifth volume of the Command 1948-1967.
definitive modeling guide, Encyclopedia of Aircraft Modelling Techniques. This volume covers the following subjects in depth through its 155 pages and more than 700 high quality pictures: How to assemble, paint, and weather fuel tanks and all types of weapons including missiles, bombs, machine guns, and cannons.
£28.99
Consider, for a moment, these three Royal Air Force Command titles:- ? “Royal Air Force Bomber Command”- a name that, for many, may generate imposing images of Wellingtons, Halifaxes, Stirlings, Lancasters, Mosquitos, Lincolns, Canberras, and the V-Bombers; ? “Royal Air Force Fighter Command
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Naval Fighters 104 F2A Buffalo
Bookworld Wholesale Ltd.
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Luftwaffe - Secret Wings of the Third Reich
The book is lavishly illustrated with over 300 photos, many of which have never been published. 22 illustrations are also included. This is the ultimate history of the Brewster Buffalo. Soft cover 176pages, 391 B&W photos, 22 illustrations
Hundreds of original and previously unseen documents have been used to compile this unrivalled history of Germanyís secret Second World War tailless and flying wing designs, illustrated with a host of new and period drawings, illustrations and photographs. Paperback,130 pages.
Warpaint 112.Douglas A3D Skywarrior
Polish Wings 22. Bristol F.2B Fighter
£34.99
Never glamorous and not receiving the recognition showered on its deck mates, the shipboard Douglas A3D Skywarrior will be remembered by US Navy fans and historians for many reasons, most of all because it figured prominently in the Cold War crises of the late 1950s and early 1960s
£19.00
£6.99
The next book in the popular Polish Wings series is on the famous British WWI fighters in Polish Air Forces. Covers duty of these aircraft during Polish-Bolsheviks war and early 1920s. More than 150 photos, mostly unpublished, and many colour profiles.
£15.00
The Weathering Magazine 21.Faded. Luftwaffe crash archive 11 The latest issue of The Weathering Magazine is entirely devoted to the effects of fading and discoloration. Within this release, you will see various examples of pale and faded finishes seen not only on tanks, trains, and submarines, but also on civilian and science fiction subjects.
£8.99
We are delighted to announce the forthcoming publication of Volume 11 in our Luftwaffe Crash Archive series. Originally we thought that Volume 11 would take us to the end of the war but we unearthed so much material for the Steinbock period that we only got as far as the end of May 1944!
£25.00
MDF 29 Panavia Tornado
Panavia Tornado has a singular history, and up-date programs has kept it flying onto the 21st Century. Now in the last years of its service life, it perhaps a good time to look back on what is, and remains a very fine aircraft, and this new Datafile from SAM Publications brings the Tornado story to life!
£19.99
Air Modellers Guide to Wingnut Wings Volume 2
This publication is the 2nd in a series of books showcasing a number of different kit builds that detail the methods and materials used to achieve the stunning models
£25.00
Stringbag!
The Tornado F.3 spent just over twentythree years in frontline operational service with the Royal Air Force compared to a similar period for airdefence Phantoms, and twenty-eight years for the Lightning.
£16.00
Air Modeller’s Guide to Wingnut Wings
If you are a fan of WWI aircraft then this is a book for you. Showcasing a selection of builds of the stunningly high detailed kits available from New Zealand based brand Wingnut Wings. Paperback,full colour,112 pages.
£19.50
Aircraft Modelling Essentials
This book focuses on WWII aircraft exclusivley with a strong relation to wingnut wings models. This books is full of thoughts ideas and techniques to get the best results from WWII airplane kits.
Aircraft Scale Modelling Guide. Aircraft included A-6E Tram Intruder, A-7E Corsair II, F-4J Phantom II, F-5E Tiger II Agressor, F-8E Crusader, F-14A Tomcat, F-18F Superhornet, F-21 Lion.A
With this Essential Techniques series we create a new way of learning modeling. This is a perfect series of books for those people who want to take the first steps in this hobby and for those who return to it after a while
Bell 47/H-13 Sioux Helicopter
A&M 10. The de Havilland Mosquito Part 2
The Weathering Aircraft Volume 7.Interiors.
£25.00
Famously pictured in the opening credits of the popular television series M.A.S.H., Bellís Model 47 helicopter was the first helicopter certified for civilian use in March 1946 and went on to serve a wide variety of military and civilian applications.
£17.50
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USN Legendary Jets
Warpaint 113.Panavia Tornado
£28.99
The de Havilland Mosquito Part 2 contains208 pages, 40+ pages of technical information,20+ pages of walk-around images and technical diagrams,5+ pages of camouflage and markings,25+ pages of model builds and modelling information,200+ photographs including wartime images.
£18.95
£27.99
Introducing The Weathering Aircraft, your publication of choice focused on painting and weathering techniques for aircraft models, launches its seventh issue. We should not overlook interiors, so we have decided to show you how to paint and weather cockpits, wheel and electronics bays, and radio compartments.
£8.99
RAF Secret Jets of Cold War Britain
RAF: Secret Jets of Cold War Britain The West was stunned when the Soviet Union dropped its first atomic bomb in August 1949. In the wake of the Second World War, funding for the RAF had fallen away dramatically but now there was an urgent need for new jet fighters to meet the threat of Russian bombers head-on.
£6.99
V2 The A4 Rocket from Peenemunde to Redstone.
The A4 rocket, or V2 ñ ëVergeltungswaffen Zweií (Vengeance Weapon 2), was the most sophisticated weapon developed in Europe during the Second World War. From September 1944 to March 1945, launch teams fired more than 3,000 V2 rockets at targets in England, France, Belgium and even within Germany itself.
£50.00
MDF Scaled Down 7
The Boeing F/A-18E/F Super Front and EA-18G-Growler by Andy Evans. This new Scaled Down from SAM Publications brings the Super Hornet story to life.Paperback,Full colour,100 pages
£14.99
Aces High 11
We introduce you the 11th issue, the first number of the collection dedicated entirely to aircraft. The mythical Fw190. An indispensable issue for all lovers of aviation. For this special issue we have selected some articles of the highest quality of the best modelers in which they explain a lot of techniques on this iconic plane, with a careful layout and great photos.
£8.99
UK POSTAGE SINGLE BOOKS £2. 50 TWO OR MORE BOOKS £4. 50 OVERSEAS AIRMAIL PLEASE ADD 15% OF ORDER VALUE MINIMUM £4. 50
08/12/2017 17:04
BOOKS & MEDIA
MiG-21 Aces of the Vietnam War
P-38 Lightning in Action
AUTHOR: Istvan Toperczer YEAR: 2017 PUBLISHER: Osprey Publishing Ltd ISBN: 978-1-4728-2356-4 FORMAT: 112 pp Softback
T
his book is one of the latest in Osprey’s Aircraft of the Aces series, telling the story of the MiG-21 aces of the North Vietnamese Air Force, and follows the usual format for this series. This Vietnamese were already using MiG-17s when, in 1965, a group of pilots and engineers travelled to the Soviet Union and trained on the MiG-21. After a short introduction, Chapter One starts at that point in time, and covers the period to the end of the Vietnam War. The book’s focus, as the title suggests, is on the aces, and covers the various aerial encounters and the units operating the aircraft. The very readable text is illustrated with many contemporary photographs and other illustrations, including one showing an underground
AUTHOR: David Doyle YEAR: 2017 PUBLISHER: Squadron/Signal Publications ISBN: 978-0-89747-849-6 FORMAT: 80 pp Softback bunker from which some aircraft operated. The drawings also include the customary selection of colour side profiles illustrating the colour schemes and markings worn. There are appendices, which list the highscoring aces, and give more detailed captions for the colour profiles; and finally, a bibliography and index. The author is a flight surgeon in the Hungarian Air Force. In his spare time, he travels frequently to Hanoi and elsewhere to research the Vietnam War. He has written other Osprey books on the subject. This book deserves a place on the shelf of any MiG-21 fan, or any student of the Vietnam War. Thanks to Osprey Publishing Ltd for the review copy.
MJC
Ag Aviation No.2 PUBLISHER: Aero Research Co. SERIES: Digital CD Civil Series CAT.NO. 5010
MJC
Flying Into The Storm RAF Bombers at War 1939-1942 AUTHOR: Chris Sams YEAR: 2017 PUBLISHER: Fonthill Media Ltd ISBN: 978-1-78155-617-7 FORMAT: 238pp Hardback/e-Book
A
s Monty Python’s Flying Circus used to say ‘and now for something completely different’, and that is certainly what this CD supplies! Agricultural aircraft may not be everyone’s cup of tea, but they do perform a vital role in farming communities around the world, and they are certainly colourful and very different looking from the Spitfires and 109s commonly seen at model shows! This latest CD from Aero Research has 151 images of Ag aircraft from around the world. Some of the types covered will be familiar, like the Stearman, or the Grumman TBM; others, like the Ayres S2R, less so. The Grumman G164 caught my eye, as being a particularly ugly aircraft, considering it came from the same company that designed the rather sleek Tigercat! Another type that caught my
T
his book follows the usual Squadron/Signal format, and deals with the P-38 Lightning, an aircraft that was unique among US “P-“ types, not just because of its twin-engine, twin-boom configuration, but as the only one to remain in full production throughout the USA’s involvement in World War II. As usual, the book traces the development and service of the type. Again, as usual, this involves some text, but the main value lies in the photographs and line drawings. All variants are covered, starting with the XP-38, and the various stages of developing the nacelle and boom configurations, moving through the major and minor
fighter variants, and then the other types, such as the F-4 and F-5 reconnaissance versions, the P-38M night fighter and the Droop Snoot. As one would expect, the version ordered for the RAF is also covered. As the reader may know, most of the RAF order was never taken up, and the bulk of these machines were taken over by the USAAC and used for training. There are some great photos of these machines in US service, wearing their originally allocated RAF serial number, which (as with other types in similar circumstances) was adopted as their US serial. This book will prove a good resource for anyone modelling a “fork-tailed devil”, as well as anyone with an interest in the type. Thanks to the author for the review copy.
T eye was the very bizarre looking Transavia PL-12. This twin boom type would certainly stump most aviation enthusiasts. Ag aircraft are not commonly kitted, but Grand Models announced a brand new kit of the PZL M18 in 1/72 scale at Scale ModelWorld. HpH also have a Zlin Bumblebee in 1/32 scale in preparation, so if you fancy modelling a dedicated Ag aircraft or converting a warbird to this role, then this disc could well be the inspiration that you are looking for! My thanks to Aero Research for supplying this disc for review. www.AeroResearchCDs.com
TMU-S
his book relates the development of RAF bomber strategy and tactics in the years before the real “heavies” – Lancaster and Halifax – came into widespread service. Five main types are covered – Battle, Blenheim, Hampden, Wellington, and Whitley – although others such as the Bombay are also mentioned where appropriate. The book starts with a look at the aircraft involved, their development, and their strengths and shortcomings. A large part of the book then covers the bomber offensive against Germany, and shows how pre-war theories were put to the test in the light of operational experience. It then moves on to examine the use of these aircraft in other theatres, including North Africa and the Far East. After a conclusion, there are endnotes, a bibliography, and an index. There is a
photographic section midway through the book, with a selection of photos. The text is generally well-written and engaging, but let down by what may be proof-reading or auto-correct issues: for example the widespread use of “ordinance” (“That which is proclaimed by authority …*”) where “ordnance” (“…munitions …”*) is meant; confusion between “effecting” and “affecting” on p144; or on p37, where one can only puzzle over the meaning of “… acting the seat, the captain […] collapsed …” – perhaps “vacating” was intended? But notwithstanding these this is a useful volume for those with an interest in the RAF, the bomber force and its aircraft, and/ or the early part of World War II. Thanks to Fonthill Media Ltd for the review copy.
MJC
*Chambers Dictionary, 9th Edn.
94 • JANUARY 2018 • SCALE AVIATION MODELLER INTERNATIONAL
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BOOKS & MEDIA
Tornado F3 in Focus A Navigator’s Eye on Britain’s Last Interceptor
A Visual History of the B-17F Flying Fortress in WWII
AUTHOR: David Gledhill YEAR: 2015 PUBLISHER: Fonthill Media Ltd ISBN: 978-1-78155-307-7 FORMAT: 282 pp Hardback/e-Book
Y
our scribe received this book for review not long after hearing about Revell’s imminent issue of a new 1/48 Tornado F3 kit, and reading the book has certainly made a purchase of said kit more likely. The author tells the story of the service introduction and development of the Tornado F2 and F3, from their early years and entry into service through to the type’s retirement from RAF service. David Gledhill is very well qualified to write the book. As an RAF officer and navigator, he was involved with the type in a number of capacities: as a staff officer in MoD; as one of the first instructors, and later Executive Officer, of 229 OCU; and as CO of 1435 Flight, the unit tasked with air defence of the Falklands. There have been many tales – some true, some not so true – about the early (in)capabilities of the aircraft. The author pulls no punches in relating the early problems and defects, and how they were overcome, but he
AUTHOR: David Doyle YEAR: 2017 PUBLISHER: G-104 Press ISBN: 978-1-77501-331-0 FORMAT: 120 pp Softback equally gives praise where praise is due. The style flows well, and the technical explanations are made understandable without the author ever being guilty of talking down to the reader. The descriptions of a number of “special” sorties are particularly interesting. These include a Buckingham Palace flypast for HM the Queen’s birthday by a nineaircraft formation, and an epic 10.5-hour flight to deploy for a series of exercises with the Sultan of Oman’s Air Force, tanking from a TriStar for the first time in the aircraft’s service. There is a good selection of appropriate photographs and other illustrations in both black and white and colour. If you have an interest in the aircraft or the RAF in the 1980s onwards, this book belongs on your shelf. Thanks to Fonthill Media Ltd for the review copy.
MJC
A-1 Skyraider in Action AUTHOR: David Doyle YEAR: 2017 PUBLISHER: Squadron/Signal Publications ISBN: 978-0-89747-837-3 FORMAT: 80 pp Softback
T
his book is in Squadron/ Signal’s usual softback landscape format, and traces the development of the A-1 Skyraider, perhaps one of the most iconic post-war US Navy aircraft. There is some very informative text, starting with the introduction, which explains the origins of the aircraft. This intro also includes some very interesting photographs of the XSB2D-1; this was originally planned as the replacement for the SBD, and is an aircraft your reviewer admits he has never heard of. In common with most of the Squadron/Signal range, the bulk
B-17F Flying Fortress
of the book consists of a good selection of photographs and line drawings, the latter illustrating the various developments from the original XBT2D-1 to the AD-7/A-1J. The only omission is that, whilst there is mention of the aircraft in non-US service, the only photos are of US machines, except for a few in South Vietnamese service. But that is a minor quibble, and any modeller with an interest in the “Spad” will want this on their bookshelf. Thanks to the author for the review copy.
MJC
T
his book concentrates on one sub-type of the iconic World War Two aeroplane, the B-17F Flying Fortress. After a short introductory text, the rest of the book consists of photographs. The author presents a great selection of contemporary shots of B-17Fs in service, followed by a walk-around selection of the B-17F preserved in the Museum of Flight in Seattle,
Washington. Each photograph is informatively captioned. If you are modelling a B-17F, particularly one of HKM’s 1/32 giants, you will find this book invaluable, but it will also be of interest to anyone who has a soft spot for the mighty “Fort”. Thanks to the author for the review copy.
MJC
Modellers Datafile Scaled Down 7
The Boeing F/A-18E/F Super Hornet and EA-18G Growler AUTHOR: Andy Evans YEAR: 2017 PUBLISHER: HobbyZone Limited (under licence from SAM Publications) ISBN: 978-0-9955460-7-3 FORMAT: 100pp Softback
T
his book is the latest in this popular series from SAM Publications. The opening chapter begins with a look at the development of the type, before moving on to look at the Super Hornet as fleet defender and strike fighter. The next chapter takes a look at the Growler variant of the Super Hornet. Chapter 4 is very short, taking a look at the Advanced Super Hornet, which was a Boeing and Northrop Grumman self-funded prototype, with a 50% reduction in frontal radar cross-section, conformal fuel tanks, and an enclosed weapons pod. Chapter 5 looks at the Australian Export version of the Super Hornet. There follow four pages of colour and colourful side profiles by Andrew Borovyh. The next section features seven kit builds: four 1/48 scale Hasegawa kits, and three in 1/72 scale (one from Revell, two from Hasegawa). The builds feature some of the more colourful schemes the type has worn during its service life. The appendices include some really useful walk-around and
detail images, including weaponry as well as airframe details. Appendix 2 is the Kitography, which takes a look at the available kits, decals, and accessories. Appendix 4 comprises images from the technical manual, which are mainly focused on the cockpit. The last section looks at the squadrons that operated the Super Hornet. If you have any of the many available kits of the Super Hornet in your stash, then this book may just give you the inspiration you need to build them! My thanks to HobbyZone/ SAM Publications for supplying this copy for review.
TMU-S
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BACK PAGE
Show Diary
Scale Aviation Modeller International January 2018 • Volume 24 • Issue 1 PRODUCED BY HOBBYZONE LIMITED UNDER LICENCE FROM SAM PUBLICATIONS
From January 2018 to March 2018 January 7th
CROYDEN AIRPORT AVIATION AND MILITARY COLLECTORS FAIR
Hallmark Hotel, Purley way, Croyden CR9 4LT January 19th to 21st
THE LONDON MODEL ENGINEERING EXHIBITION Great Hall, Alexandra Palace, N22 7AY January 28th
IPMS BOLTON SCALE MODEL SHOW (NEW VENUE)
Premier Suite, Macron Stadium, Burnden Way, Horwich, Bolton, BL6 6JW
February 10-11th
March 3
Tank Museum, Bovington, Dorset, BH20 6JG February 11th
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Huddersfield Leisure Center, Spring Grove Street, Huddersfield, HD1 4BP.
EAST OF ENGLAND MODEL SHOW 2018
SOUTH WEST MODEL SHOW
ALDINGBOURNE MODEL EX 2018
HUDDERSFIELD MODEL SHOW
March 4th
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[email protected] Use the above address for back issue orders, subscriptions, enquiries or book orders. Note that we cannot undertake research into specific or general aviation queries and that there may be some delays in responses from the contributors, as they are not based at the editorial address. PUBLISHER SAM Publications GROUP EDITOR • Andy Evans
[email protected] EDITOR • David Francis
[email protected] ASSOCIATE EDITOR • Tim Upson-Smith
[email protected] PROOF READER • Andy Rowe The editorial emails are ONLY to be used for editorial submissions. They are NOT for subscription payments or queries, back issues or Modellers Datafile orders. Please send all of these to the Media House address detailed at the top of this column. STUDIO MANAGER • Jonathan Phillips PAGE DESIGN & LAYOUT • Andy Folds PRE-PRESS PRODUCTION • HobbyZone Limited PRINT PRODUCTION • Printed and bound in the UK
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• Mark Willey • Andy Renshaw • Andy Evans • Tim Upson-Smith • Andy Rowe • Nicola Upson-Smith • Kathy Francis
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...COMING NEXT MONTH •M icro Mir’s Big Razor •A Northern Flash, Tan Models RF-84 • I t Started Here, AMG’’s Messerschmit 109A
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Scale Aviation Modeller International is published monthly by HobbyZone Limited and is distributed to the news trade on the second last Thursday of each month.
Next on sale 25th January 2018
American shops and trade may obtain copies from Kalmbach Publishing Toll Free 1 800 558 1544 Canadian shops and trade may obtain copies from Disticor Tel: + 1 (905) 619 6565 Scale Aviation Modeller International, Volume 24 Issue 1, January 2018 (ISSN 1356-0530) published monthly by: Media House, 2221 Niagara Falls Blvd, Niagara Falls, NY, 14304-5709. Periodicals postage pending: Niagara Falls, NY. US Postmaster: Send address corrections to: Scale Aviation Modeller International, PO Box 265, Williamsville, NY 14231
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AVRO SHACKLETON AEW.2
A11005 AVRO SHACKLETON AEW.2 • New parts for this AEW.2 version
• AN/APS-20 Radome under cockpit • Shortened bomb-bay doors can be posed open or closed • Complete AEW.2 interior parts • Moveable contra-rotating propellers • Poseable control surfaces
AVRO SHACKLETON AEW.2 “Dougal”, No.8 Squadron, Royal Air Force Lossiemouth, Moray, north east Scotland, 1980. Aircraft now preserved at the Museum of Science and Industry, Manchester, England.
AVRO SHACKLETON AEW.2 “Ermintrude”, No.8 Squadron, Royal Air Force Lossiemouth, Moray, north east Scotland, 1979.
Length 370mm Width 508mm Pieces 242
Airfix.com
and all good retail stockists
Start as you mean to finish Official Product
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