54 tiger(P)Zimmerit, Love it but Hate it. I have always loved the appearance of Zimmerit on the Tiger I tanks. Zimmerit adds a rough uncomfortable loo...
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tiger( Zimmerit, Love it but Hate it.
I have always loved the appearance of Zimmerit on the Tiger I
tanks. Zimmerit adds a rough uncomfortable look to this already ominous Vehicle. I built half-a-dozen Tiger tanks during my early modeling days. Most of the examples I wanted to construct had
Zimmerit and at the time I was hesitant to replicate this because of my limited modelling skills. I knew that I would not be able to dodge the Zimmerit “ball” for ever. This ball finally hit me when I started constructing Dragon’s new Sd.Kfz.181 Panzerkampfwagen VI (P) or Tiger (P) After loosely fitting some of its major components I immediately fell in love with this kit. I decided to put my two current projects aside and around two weeks later, the model was assembled, complete with Zimmerit, and ready for painting. During this article I am going to show you how to construct and paint Dragon’s new Tiger (P) model. I will explain how I painted and assembled the model to represent one of the Panzerkampfwagen VI (P) tanks sent to Russia with the s.Pz.Jg.Abt.653 during April of 1944. The construction phase of this article will focus primarily on how I applied the Zimmerit. I placed much emphases on the Zimmerit application because I found this phase of the model to be the most time consuming and tedious. Applying accurately scaled Zimmerit is a very important ability for all Second War armour modelers. Zimmerit included, I found Dragon’s new Tiger (P) kit to be a joy to assemble. This model was a bit unusual for me. I would not only be simulating chipped paint, but chips onto the Zimmerit as well. The unique surface of the Zimmerit would also make weathering this model a bit different.
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Adam Wilder Models Dragon’s Tiger (P)
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Construction
After practicing my zimmerit application
the excess Milliput from around the details.
During my past articles I have always
skills on a scrap piece of plastic, I was able
and any areas where I felt it to be too thick
encouraged modelers to use photo-etched
to perfect my method. I started by
and out of scale. After this I used my
brass (PE) fenders and other components
constructing a Zimmerit tool from sheet-
finger, moistened with tap-water, to
onto their scale models. For this this
styrene as shown. I filed a bevel on a piece
smooth the surface further. Use a sharp
article, I decided to construct DML’s Tiger
of .060 thick styrene. I then cut the beveled
hobby knife blade and tap-water to
P primarily out of the box. Being partially a
piece of styrene into lengths roughly 4mm
remove Milliput from small crevasses and
review, I wanted the readers to see the
wide and glued the beveled lengths
other difficult to reach areas. I used an old
different parts of this nice kit. I also wanted
together, making sure the bevel on each
wet paint brush to eliminate any remaining
to focus on the application of the Zimmerit.
length is facing the same direction. Align
unwanted Milliput .You may need to
the beveled edges on a flat surface before
perform these steps two to three times
Photos 1 to 3
gluing them together.
before the Milliput is ready to be pressed
I started construction by assembling the
I chose to use some tap water to soften
with the Zimmerit tool.
seven major components of the hull top,
the Milliput during mixing which makes it
as seen in photo no. 1. One of the only
easire to work. The brand of Milliput used
Photos 14 to 15
assembly issues I found during this was
on this model took about six hours to set
I brushed some more water over the
ensuring the corners of the hull top line up
allowing plenty of working time.
Milliput and started embossing it with my Zimmerit tool which was also wet, making
with the sides. Make certain the front corner of the full top is properly aligned
Photos 9 to 13
sure the bevels on the tool are facing
with the sides as seen in photo 2. Align the
With the Miliput mixed I was ready to start
downwards. I wrote the word “up” on the
two corners and let the rest of the hull top
adding the Zimmerit to the model. The
top of the tool to avoid any mistakes. I
and sides fall into place. Flame cut edges
front and rear plates are moulded as
used a single spare bevel to form ridges
were added to the hull sides using a hobby
separate parts. Applying Zimmerit to these
around the details and areas too small for
knife.
areas is difficult because of all the bolt
the Zimmerit tool.
heads. I started applying small amounts of Photos 4 to 8
miliput randomly around the panel and
Photos 16 to 17
I exchanged a few E-mails with the well
then pressed the Milliput flat with a
I then moved on to the model’s sides and
known modeller Lester Plaskitt. He
modified paint mixer. I used the paint mixer
I decided that it would be best to
recommended that I use Milliput to
because I did not have a spatula small
assemble details like the tool clamps and
replicate the Zimmerit. Although he
enough at the time to fit between the bolts
fender supports. I felt that it would be
recommended the grey/green type Milliput,
as seen in photo nine. A small amount of
more realistic to place the Zimmerit
I only had the super fine white type given
Milliput will go a long way when using it to
around these details than to cut the parts
to me while in Japan. I decided to have a
replicate Zimmerit. I worked the Milliput
into the uneven surface. The fenders will fit
go at this task using what I had to hand.
evenly over the entire surface of the part,
onto the assembled hull without needing
then used a toothpick to remove some of
glue. Attaching the fenders to the hull
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allowed me to locate and glue all the
to one side of the model and let it dry out
kits. The detail of the 88mm gun on DML’s
supports in place onto the hull. There are
before handling it to do the other side.
Tiger (P) is the best I have seen included inside a plastic model kit. The suspension
some details, intended for Ferdinand and Elephant models, which need to be
Photos 22 through 23
on the DML Tiger (P) kit is also designed
removed at this time using a knife.
I broke down the turret zimmerit into four
with limited movement as you can see in
The kit includes wire cables and photo
parts - the gun tube, the mantlet, the right
photo no 27. I also decided to wire the
etched cable clamps to use as an
side of the turret and the left side. Once
lights using stretched sprue.
alternative to the injection moulded parts
again, give the Milliput about eight hours to
The two sets of single length vinyl track
also provided. I located the cable clamps
solidify between each section.
included with DML’s Tiger P are also well
and hooks before the applying the
Applying the Zimmerit to the mantlet was
detailed. You can glue the vinyl track
zimmerit. One of the only areas lacking in
tricky. I applied the Milliput in small
together using regular liquid plastic
detail on the kit are the tools. The two
amounts using my hobby knife then spread
cement and the join is so good that after
shovels and axe are all moulded as one
it out before using the Zimmerit tool as
gluing the track it was difficult to see
piece onto what must have been a piece
seen on photos 22 and 23.
where the two sides connected. To my surprise, I was actually quite happy with
of flat bar. I decided to cut the three tools apart then later reattached them using
Finishing the Zimmerit was a bit of a
vinyl track. The only problem was that
Aber PE tool clamps. The piece of flat bar
milestone during the construction of this
some of the teeth were bent as a result of
used to mount the tools was replaced with
model and with this done I was now ready
their packaging. I simply clipped the bent
a piece of sheet plastic.
to complete the model’s assembly.
teeth away using Xuron snips and glued on replacements cut from plastic. This is the
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Photos 18 to 21
Photos 24 to 28
first model I have constructed in over five
With the details fitted to the hull sides, I
I made my own handles using the
years where I did not resort to a set of
was ready to continue applying the
Grabhandler from Mission Models. I have
workable Fruil model metal track. I would
zimmerit using the same techniques. You
always liked the even, seamless, circular
certainly consider using the one piece
will be handling the model extensively
appearance of brass handles over the
Dragon Styrene track again in the future.
during this process so apply the Zimmerit
plastic ones provided with plastic model
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Photos 29 through 33 Photos of the s.Pz.Jg.Abt.653 Tiger (P) in action show some screens over the rear louvers of the engine deck. Judging by their appearance, I would guess that these screens were a field modification and they are not included in the kit. To begin to make the screens I made the frames using brass rod. I did not have any material that resembled mesh so I decided to construct my own using a spool of brass wire. I carefully marked the frames and cut the wire into lengths and soldered them to one side of the frame as shown in photo 29. I used a 6” scale to help me hold the frame in position while fixing the wire and soldered the other end of the wire to the frame and trimmed it. I then wove perpendicular wires into the first set using a fine pair of tweezers. This was a very tedious task and I alternated from each side working toward the middle of the screen and it becomes harder as you work toward the center. With the screens completed I filed the wire flat on the frames allowing the screens to sit flush on the louvers.
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The Assembled Model
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Photos 1 to 2
Photo 3
I always paint the base coats on my
I added some more white to some of the
Dragon’s Tiger (P) is one of the most
models using Tamiya and/or Vallejo acrylic
dark yellow used for the base-coat. With
enjoyable models I have constructed in
paints. Acrylics are easy to spray, less
the aid of some different sized pieces of
years. The fit of the parts, for the most,
toxic and stand up well to the enamel and
cut paper, I carefully airbrushed some of
was good. After completing the model it
oil washes I apply during the model’s
the models extruded components such as
was brought to my attention that a large
weathering stages.
the large cover on the hull rear and louver
circular hatch is missing from the rear of
Tamiya acrylic paints dry quickly and I have
housings. The top of the turret and upper
the kit turret. This hatch was also absent
discovered that Tamiya acrylics can
side of the gun was also airbrushed with
from the 1/35 scale line drawings I
sometimes dry before hitting the model
this lighter shade of dark yellow. This
referenced by Hilary Louis Doyle. Other
resulting in a rough sandy appearance. To
breaks up the individual components
than this I found the kit to be quite
help avoid this problem try reducing your
making the model more interesting.
accurate. Now let’s move onto painting the
air pressure. Before airbrushing I first paint
Next I added a small amount of blue to
model.
the inner parts of the model’s hatches.
some of the dark-yellow. I airbrushed this
With the inner part of the hatches painted,
darker shade under the hull, on the lower
I can place them on the model in the
part of the turret, and under the gun. Photo
closed position allowing me to paint the
10 shows the model after these two steps
Applying the Base-Coat
models exterior more easily.
were completed. Although these colors
German three-tone camouflages are
The Tamiya paints I used to mix my dark-
look a bit exaggerated now, they will be
always fun to apply. This Tiger was also
yellow were XF-60 with a bit of XF-57, X-8
come less evident once we start applying
going to be the first model with Zimmerit
and X-2. I also added some X-22 clear to
the weathering steps.
that I had painted.
improve the airbrushing qualities of the
Painting
paint.
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again at random thicknesses, alongside
that will be applied during the up coming
I decided to airbrush the dark green part of
the green.
weathering stages. Second, the clear coat will give the model a glossy finish. During
the three-tone camouflage first. I increased the PSI on my air source from 15 to about
Photos 6 to 7
the next step we are going to be adding
27. I kept my green paint to thinner ratio at
The markings for the s.Pz.Jg.Abt.653 Tiger
artist oils to the model. The artist oils will
about two parts paint and three parts
(P) were applied using Solvaset to soften
reduce the glossy finish giving the model a
isopropyl rubbing alcohol.
the decals allowing them to conform to the
realistic finish.
I mixed the green using Tamiya XF-5 with a
uneven surface. Some areas were pierced
bit of XF-60 and X-8. Airbrushing the red-
with a sharp knife to avoid air pockets.
Photos 8 to 9
brown part of the camouflage was quicker
I then applied a coat of Tamiya X-22 clear
The artist oils you apply during this stage
and easier to apply than the green. During
over the entire model including the running
will depend upon the color of the base-
this step I could simply use the green as a
gear. This coat of clear serves two
coat and camouflage. The colors I use for
guide to make sure the red-brown was
purposes. First, it helps to protect the
a German three-tone camouflage are
balanced. I airbrushed the red-brown,
base-coat from the oil and enamel washes
white, yellow and burnt umber. You will
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need to break the model up into imaginary
dry. This is a good time to start painting
during this step. The first thing we need to
parts then apply and blend the oils onto
the model’s various details such as the
do during this step is add areas of scraped
one area at a time. Using a brush, I apply
tools and cables. I use pieces of cut paper
paint where the paint has been worn but
the different colored oils in dots then blend
to help prevent unwanted paint on the
not entirely down to the red-primer and
them with turpentine. Adding differing
model’s base-coat during this task.
steel underneath. Using Vallejo Model Color acrylics I mix, a colour a few shades
amounts of colours to different areas will give diverse hues over the model. For
Photos 13 to 14
lighter than the paint on the model. I
example, I added more white to the
General washes are the fist washes I add
usually focus the chipped paint primarily
model’s horizontal surfaces while adding
to the model during its painting. General
around the corners and edges of the
additional burnt umber the model’s sides.
washes are another way of adding fake
details. I also added random areas of
shadows around the model’s finer details. I
scrapes onto the zimmerit.
Photo 11
mix the washes at different paint-to-thinner
After letting the oils dry for 24 hours, I
ratios when applying them to different
Photos 17 to 18
mixed the some lighter and darker tones
parts of the model using both enamel and
With the lighter colored scrapes painted I
using the same oil colors I applied the
artist oil paints which gives the spreading
started adding chips of primer using
darker tone around various details such as
properties of the oils combined with the
Humbrol enamel No.100. As part of the
around the hatches. Dampen the brush
opaque characteristics of the enamels.
chipping process, I mixed a zimmerit colour using a light grey shade. Ashes-
with a bit of turpentine to help you spread
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the oils during this step. It is important to
Photos 15 to 16
White pigments were also mixed with the
note that a small amount of artist oil will
Simulating chipped paint onto a 1/35 scale
Humbrol paints.
spread over a large surface.
model can be a bit tricky but chipped paint can add an incredible amount of
Photo 19
Photo 12
authenticity to a scale model. It is very
For the final step of the chipping process I
The artist oils will need about three days to
important that you use the correct brush
added areas of rust onto some of the
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chips of exposed primer. I also added
Photos 23 to 24
airbrushed areas of Buff applied during the
streaks of rust by applying vertical lines of
For the first part of the weathering process
previous step.
paint onto the model using a fine brush.
I airbrushed a coat of Tamiya Buff onto the
Wash the lines of rust colors downward
lower chasses and fenders. Cut pieces of
Photos 27 to 28
using the same fine brush dampened with
paper were used of mask certain parts of
I then added areas of dry-mud using a
turpentine.
the model that I wanted to remain clean.
concoction of buff and dark-earth Tamiya
Large random areas of buff were
acrylics. I then add some light dust and a
Photos 20 to 22
airbrushed onto the top of the model
little Europe dust pigments. The final
Graphite was randomly brushed onto the
where dust would collect.
ingredients added are some plaster and sifted sand for texture. This was applied to
tools and cables. Graphite was also rubbed onto parts of the model polished
Photos 25 to 26
the underside and lower parts of the
clean by the crew such as the cupola and
Applying rain-marks onto a model using
chassis using an old brush. If the dry-mud
edges of the hatches. Black Tamiya
thinned Tamiya Buff is a great way to add
mixture starts to get too hard simply add a
acrylics were also dry-brushed onto the
subtle streaks of rain-washed dust onto a
bit of water and mix it thoroughly.
tread plate of the fenders.
model. You will want to make a wash of about 90% water and 10% Tamiya buff. You
Photos 29 to 30
Adding the Earth Colours
will need to place the wash onto the model
After giving the dry-mud time to set I
I wanted this Tiger P to have the dry-dusty
using a small brush. Place the rain marks
started adding a second layer of dust to
look seen in photos of the vehicle. The
onto the sides and slopes of the model
the model using pigments. I mixed a dust
recent models I have painted have also
using vertical strokes.
color using three parts light-dust and one
been wet and muddy. I wanted this dusty
Keep using vertical strokes until the water
part Europe-dust. I brushed light amounts
model to add a bit of variety to my display
evaporates then repeat the process. Apply
of the dust mixture onto the model. I then
case.
the thinned buff to the horizontal surfaces
blended the pigments using Humbrol
of the model. This step will also add a
thinner as shown in photo 43. Pigments
slightly scuffed appearance to the
mixed with Humbrol thinner were also
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brushed under the model onto the dry
tracks and running gear, I glued them to
earth.
the model. I needed to super-glue the tracks to the tops of the road-wheels to
Photo 31
give them a realistic heavy appearance.
I was ready to apply the fresh earth using a similar mixture this time I using Humbrol
Photo 36
Chocolate 98 as the base. I then added
Refined areas of fresh mud were also
Russian earth colored pigments, brown
blended into corners and around details on
artist oils and gloss varnish.
the upper hull and turret.
After the fresh mud had some time to dry, I
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lightly brushed more earth coloured
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pigments onto the model.
An acrylic gloss varnish was used to add some streaks of moisture onto the vertical
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and angled parts of the model. Lubricant
The tracks were treated in a similar way. I
was added to some of the running gear
started by spraying a coat of Tamiya Dark-
using a mixture of oxide enamels, artist
Earth to serve as a base. A heavy coat of
oils, gloss varnish and pigments.
dry-mud mix was then applied to the outer
Graphite was added to the tread-plate over
side of the track. I wiped the outer edges
the areas I dry-brushed black in the
of the track clean with my fingers.
previous steps. The final step was applying
Fresh-earth was applied to the center of
a mixture of Ashes-White and panzer grey
the tracks and worn steel was dry-brushed
pigments to some of the areas of chipped
to the outer edges of the track using a
zimmerit.
combination of Humbrol metal coat colours. The metal colour was also added
The Finished Model
to the inside areas of the tracks, drive
Constructing and painting DML’s
sprockets and idler wheels.
Sd.Kfz.181 Panzerkampfwagen VI (P) was one of the most enjoyable models I have
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constructed in years providing a much
The outer edges of the roadwheels were
needed break from any added details such
painted in the same manner and graphite
as brass and styrene components.
was rubbed onto them. After finishing the
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