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93 MAR/APRIL 2017 • £6.50 UK $15.99
BIG BANG THEORY
Meng AFV Modeller
March / April 2017
www.mengafvmodeller.com
MARK NEVILLE FIRES UP TAMIYA’S NEW M40
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CONTENTS 2
Leopard 2 A7 Domingo Hernandez Martin models Meng’s latest Leopard.
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Big Bang Theory We go for a Korea change with the new Tamiya M40.
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Fire and Ice Flammhetzer in 1:48 by Manuel Reinher.
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Panzerkampfwagen IV Part 11 The Editor continues detailing Trumpeter’s 1:16 kit.
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Challenger 2 Trumpeter’s Chally modelled by Oscar Ebrí.
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Keeping Track New releases.
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Soviet ‘Fury’ Radek Pituch’s Leand-Lease M4A2.
Meng AFV Modeller is published Bimonthly by AFV Modeller ltd Old Stables East Moor Stannington Northumberland NE61 6ES Tel: 01670 823648 Fax: 01670 820274 Editor and Designer: David Parker email:
[email protected] Deputy Editor: Mark Neville email:
[email protected] Sales Director: Keith Smith email:
[email protected] Proof Reading: Jim Chandler
AFV Modeller welcomes contributions from interested parties, but cannot accept any responsibility for unsolicited material. The contents of this publication including all articles, drawings and photographs originated by AFV Modeller ltd become the publishers copyright under copyright law. Reproduction in any form requires the written consent of the publisher. Whilst every care is taken to avoid mistakes AFV Modeller ltd. cannot be liable in any way for errors
ISSN 2059-4305
or ommissions.
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LEOPARD T
he Leopard 2 is a main battle tank developed in Germany during the
early 1970s by Krauss-Maffei-Wegmann. It entered service for the first time in 1979, replacing the Leopard 1 in its role as MBT in the German
Army. After several successive updates and upgrades, the latest version is the A7 and it still matches the level of the best and most advanced armoured combat vehicles in the world. In total, more than 3,480 Leopard 2s have been manufactured and are currently used by Germany with different versions in service in 12 other European countries and several places outside of Europe. The latest additions are basically an upgrade package for combat in urban environments consisting of additional composite armour plates on the sides of the turret and the side skirts. The A7 also features additional close-combat weapons; MG 40 grenade launcher, an additional 7.62 calibre machine gun and the replacement of the main L44 cannon by the Rheinmetall L55. Meng’s release of the A7 has been very welcome and continues their range of the modern German big cats with well researched, well detailed kits which are a pleasure to build.
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Domingo Hernandez Martin models Meng’s latest Leopard
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1:35
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big cat build
As I almost always start the construction with the lower hull as detailed by the kit instructions. The kit allows you to leave the suspension adaptable to the terrain allowing you a margin of manoeuvre in order to pose your Leopard in a scene.
With the help of a jig provided with the kit I was able to position the chassis protection pieces without problem.
The kit has some very fine detail and finesse as can be seen here at the rear of the hull. The inclusion of some photoetched parts offers a great detail out of the box project.
The finished lower hull with a dry-fit of the upper hull and excellent workable tracks. The tracks do take some time to assemble but the results are worth it.
Since I did not like the kit’s main cannon too much, I decided to use the excellent metal barrel from Orange Hobby. To add some interest, I decided to cut open some of the rear maintenance access hatches and working to some good reference constructed the internals using styrene stock and some spare items from resin detail sets I’d used in the past.
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Some of the most difficult construction work concerns the photoetched parts around the rear of the turret, again, the results of the time invested are worthwhile.
Here, the hatches with the scratch-built inner surface details are positioned and test fitted. Some of the smallest details were added at the painting stage.
The A7 turret is enormous! Even without the barrel the 1:35 turret alone is larger than most 1:48 tank models! All of the sub-assemblies were sprayed with a good coat of Tamiya grey primer allowing me to rectify any blemishes before laying on the colours.
giving the leopard his spots
The first layer I painted with XF-67 Nato Green from Tamiya lightened a little with XF-76 Gray Green generously covering the whole model.
The brown spots I painted with the XF-68 Nato Brown clarified a little with Tamiya Buff.
The black spots are XF-69 Nato Black with several drops of XF-66 Light Gray to lighten the colour very slightly.
With Vallejo acrylics and the Tankograd reference book, I painted the internal components I had made earlier. I also finished the hatches with a little silver paper and some wiring. Some details I painted separately to be placed when finishing the model like the machine gun, rear lights, antennas, etc ...
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While letting the other work dry, I began to paint the tracks working very carefully since they are very delicate assemblies. The first step was to paint them with black primer as the basis of the work.
After masking the area of the rubber and inner blocks, I painted the rest with a base of XF-79 and XF-72 without mixing, first one colour and then the other, without covering either. The result of the painting work was evident when I removed the masks.
A flat brush dampened with clean thinners ‘cleaned’ the area where the track makes contact with the road wheels. Gun Metal pigment was rubbed across the guide teeth.
The area was cleaned further by removing the excess pigment with a cotton bud.
The next step was to dirty the track, I didn’t want them too muddy but the truth is that in the photos that I was referring to even the cleaner tanks had dirty tracks. I started by applying Ammo Earth Enamel by controlled sponging.
Finally I applied ‘Europe Earth’ pigment in patches, the last touch was to apply some rust on very specific points of the links to break the monotony.
With the same sponge I applied Ammo's ‘Rainmark Effects’ on both sides of the track.
The completed tracks showing the fine detail. Remember to handle with care.
As for the wheels, after having painted them with the base green, I made masks for the inside and the outside leaving the tyres. The next step was to paint the rubber with a mixture of matt black with a few drops of flat flesh.
The tracks look a little loose on the sprocket until they’re mounted in position, unfortunately a lot of the track is hidden by the side skirts!
With the sprocket wheels I applied ‘micro chipping’ with German Camo Brown and rust colours, the difference between a finished wheel and an un-weathered wheel can be seen here. When modelling modern vehicles it’s easy to find quality colour images to work from when adding wear and tear to paint finishes.
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With a barrier coat of satin varnish I was able to trial some weathering methods. Acrylics blended with water gave the dusty effect I wanted.
Before starting weathering I detail painted the on vehicle equipment and applied the minimal decals.
While the upper-hull work was drying I started to paint the lower areas, with Vallejo acrylics I started to paint scuff marks especially in the prominent areas most prone damage.
The next step of layers was with the same acrylic paint and also pigments, I applied the second layer adding a drop of dishwasher liquid to the mixture to break the surface tension of the acrylic paint. The last step was the application of enamels in different tones and applying fluid and grease stains.
The next step was to enhance the depth with a wash, blends between ‘Enamel Nato Wash’ and dark brown oil colour was flooded around details.
The suspension and side skirts had thinned acrylics and pigments applied which were then blended by a damp brush and sponge. On the side skirts I paid attention to the direction of the splashes (working to my reference photos) before blending.
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Some final shading and highlighting brought back some of the detail that had started to get lost under the dirt and dust. I was happy that the finish was matching the reference images well.
Placing the separately painted details and painting the vision blocks with a crystal blue brought the Leopard close to completion.
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A final touch to the rear of the hull was to detail paint the exhaust outlets with some subtle rust tones and an application of soot stains with black-smoke pigment powder.
DEF Model produce some superb accessories and conversions; their modern camouflage netting is no exception.
The pattern of the netting is excellent and looks perfectly in-scale. It has an elastic feel which is perfect for manipulating into the shape desired. A little pigment dusted randomly across it helped break-up the monotone appearance. In my reference images foliage was added to the netting, I found natural mosses replicated this very well and the colours of course have a natural appearance.
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This is another excellent Leopard from Meng and a very enjoyable out of the box build, although we find it difficult not to add our own little touches, don’t we? I’d like to thank Meng and David Parker for allowing me to share my latest Leopard with you.
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FA N C Y A K O R E A C H A N G E ? TA M I Y A’ S N E W H E A V Y H I T T E R C O U L D B E J U S T T H E J O B ...
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Towards the end of WWII the need for heavy-hitting self-propelled artillery led to the development of the widened and lengthened M4A3 chassis to carry the new 155mm gun.
Designated T83, this replacement for the M12 SP gun (having proved to the U.S. hierarchy there was a need for these mobile weapons) was deemed worthy of being pressed into service in May 1945, now with a production status it was referred to as M40.
Perhaps seen as a bit of a stop-gap whilst a dedicated Gun Motor Carriage chassis (the M53) was developed, the M40 was deployed in the Korean War with the huge M1A1 gun's range of over 23Km it was suited to the terrain.
MODELLED BY
MARK NEVILLE
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BIG ‘T’S BIG SHOT- BIG KIT In these days of instant up-to-the-minute information somehow Tamiya still manage a few surprises, this brand new kit (with the exception of HVSS suspension components) caught us out anyway! We certainly have a nostalgic affection for the Tamiya brand here at AFV Modeller and you have to admire their approach of very much doing it their own way and keeping things just as they've always been. For me personally, this equates to a kit which I know will fit together with minimal fuss and still have a decent level of detail; maybe
Both the lower and upper hull are constructed from flat plates, fit is excellent with some reassuring ‘clicks’ as you go! The perfect butt-join allows the delicate weld detail to stay undisturbed. Clear parts are provided for the vision blocks and nice photoetch grilles are included for the radial engine air intakes.
not to the level of some manufacturers with thousand-part-kit productions that take months to assemble, if like me you find most pleasure in painting, a simple well engineered kit can prove just too tempting…as was the case here! This is quite a lavish kit by Tamiya's standards, by that I mean there's a small sheet of photoetch, metal chain, miniature nuts and bolts and brass tubing. Most notable though is the inclusion of no less than eight figures, a full crew for the M40 and very nicely done
they are too, allegedly using 3D scanning technology. The enormous gun barrel is available as a separate additional detail set complete with some turned brass rounds, some modellers would I'm sure expect these included in the box for the asking price but another example of Tamiya doing what they've always done. Opinions will also be divided concerning the tracks, I found them good to go with only a very faint mould seam running through the end connectors; fit is excellent and the overall look is very good, the guide horns in reality are hollow and aftermarket sets are available if this niggles you. The kit allows the option of transport mode with the rear deck and spade folded up and the barrel locked in place. The gun can be raised and lowered by means of some very nice engineering and fit of parts.
I found I was left with a gap where a couple of the plates met in the rear corner; the fit is so good I suspect it was an error on my part but easily filled with a styrene strip and some Mr. Surfacer. Ok, this is an out-of-the -box build but I couldn’t live with the lightguards in heavily moulded plastic; a quick rummage in the spares box turned up some etched parts from a Tasca Sherman. The moulded-on lifting handles on the hatches also had to go, replaced with 0.4mm brass rod.
The mighty 155mm barrel joins well but needs some time investing in sanding and polishing. Tamiya have been very creative in producing a elevating gun. Poly-caps, tiny bolts, brass tubing and metal rods all combine to make a very smooth operation More multi-media parts with some chain and the winch cable, probably the most tricky part of assembly. There’s a choice of ‘in action’ or ‘travelling’ with the rear platform and spade posed to suit. Be aware that if the gun isn’t elevated enough with the breech modelled open it wont lock into the bayonet fitting (as with a tank kit turret). Keep the gun movable and follow the instructions!
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With all of the nooks and crannies of the fighting compartment I’d decided a black base coat / primer was the way to go. A good opportunity then to test-drive a brand new range of paint from our old friends at Mission Models starting with their Black Primer.
We’re really impressed with these acrylic paints. The pigments are very fine and dense, using their own thinner and flow agent the results are ultrasmooth and very quick drying. I applied the Olive Drab over the primer within an hour with no problems allowing the black to show through as a pre-shading in shadow areas. Check our ‘Keeping Track’ pages for more details on the Mission Models range; highly recommended. Now it was time for the fun to start and ruin that beautifully smooth base coat! For many years I’ve used Designers Gouache waterbased paint for creating dust effects. Sure there are plenty of specific products for this on the market now but I’m familiar in how to achieve the desired look with the gouache and it has the benefit of being water based meaning subsequent spirit-based filters and washes can be done immediately.
AMMO’s Mud Splashes worked well in creating heavier textured areas to add to the layering of the dirt I could see in my reference images. Load a paintbrush with the liquid and blast some air though it; simple and effective with a subtle texture.
The kit provides markings for “Courageous Confederate” and “Aita’s Ankies” but I’d decided on generic recognition stars as I’d found in a few photographs. The kit’s decals were used as a guide to cut some masking tape and the stars were airbrushed, less stark and more to scale I feel.
A good quality set of gouache basic colours will last a modeller years; you can keep returning to a dry pallet with water to use it agin and again.
With the dust and dirt complete it was time to think about some washes to lift the detail out and add staining as I’ve started here on the gun trunnion parts.
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DETAIL PAINTING AND WEATHERING
Gun and Fighting Compartment I paid close attention to On Vehicle Equipment tool handles were undercoated in Vallejo Beige with neat Burnt Umber oil colour ‘dragged’ over to create the effect of wood grain. Kit supplied nylon thread was used for the tow cables, in hindsight I would replace these with copper aftermarket items. 2.5mm light lenses from Little Cars add a little sparkle of realism. Fuel spills are from oil washes and AK Interactive Streaking Grime. A touch of pigment powder was added to the edges where the wet fuel has attracted dust before evaporating. The M40 was powered by a Continental radial engine, mid-mounted.
the different moving and static elements of the gun and cradle with various materials receiving different tones and textures. The barrel was polished with my finger to a slight sheen, Yellow Ochre oil paint was blended to indicate staining of lubricants on moving parts and paint which has been scuffed and worn was replicated by Vallejo Camo Black-Brown, lightly tapped on the surface with a tiny piece of sponge held with tweezers. The ingrained dirt around the floor is pigment powder and oil paint washes.
The chrome of the exposed equilibrators was done with a strip of Bare Metal Foil (Bright Chrome).
The depth of the finish is due to the multiple layers of the dust effects harmonized with some subtly tinted filters. Localised pin-washes add depth to the detail.
Note the driver’s preferred access route has left dust buffed away and paint damaged.
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Wheels and Tracks washes of Burnt Umber oil colour to bring out details and washes of light dust colours. Tyres picked out in diluted dark grey acrylic with the contact surface painted a darker tone. Inner contact surface of tracks picked out in tones of dark grey and guide-horns buffed with Lifecolor Reflecting Agent.
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THE CREW “I’m no figure painter...” often quoted by armour modellers, and myself included, but there’s no doubt figures always improve the presentation of a vehicle model. Not only do figures add a sense of scale but will also give historical content and (perhaps) tell a story of a moment in time. Tamiya have been brave in tackling the full eight-man crew of the M40 and I felt it would be rude not to use them all.
Airbrushing some ‘directional light’ gives a good basis for shadows and highlights.
The figures are very well rendered, especially considering the limitations of injection moulded plastic, with realistic anatomy and convincing uniforms. One feature I wasn’t too keen on were the heads with helmets worn by all eight figures. Many of the photographs I was flicking through of artillery in action from the Korean War showed crews sporting caps or a complete lack of headgear. I decided to turn to the old favourites; Hornet heads. Much has changed in our hobby over the last couple of decades but these heads, in my opinion, have never been bettered adding such character and emotion in 1:35. The U.S. field caps of the period have a particular look which are
actually similar to late WWII German versions, a little reshaping here and there and adjustment of the peaks and they were good to go. Suitable bare-heads were given hair with soft putty and posed to interact with each other. Eight figures was going to require some sort of a production line approach so I decided to try a technique of undercoating in black and airbrushing a ‘light source’ to start and create some strong contrasting shadows and highlights. Over this I applied multiple coats of quite dilute acrylic colours which allows subtle shifts of green tones which I’d observed in the period colour images and gives the faded and dusty appearance.
Using acrylics for the flesh tones also speeds up the work, with quick drying times I found myself working on several figures at any one time. The sharp detail of the Hornet heads allows tiny washes of colour to pick out detail around the eyes without the labour of lining-in eye lids or trying to paint eyeballs!
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The groundwork couldn’t be simpler. A piece of polystyrene was cut to a suitable size with a few undulations pressed into the surface. Something as heavy as the M40 would really dig itself into the terrain, especially with the recoil of the gun, so I cut a couple of furrows where the tracks would sit. The rear spade would obviously cut into the earth so another slot was made to accommodate this.
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With the crew in shirt sleeves I was restricted to the gun in action in warmer, summer weather. A search through period colour photographs showed much of the Korean countryside quite dry and arid with a light, stoney earth and dry foliage. I gave some of the new AK Interactive Diorama range a test drive with their ‘Dry Ground’ effect, a textured acrylic with a good colour match. The textured paste brushes easily and was given more body (for areas of disturbed earth) with fine grit. The M40 was set into the paste whilst still wet, drying time was around an hour after which the foliage was added using more of the AK paste as adhesive. I keep a box of natural moss, fine roots and hemp rope which were ideal for this vignette. Some shading and highlighting with pigment powders helped with the dusty appearance of the earth and the final touches of the charge canisters and ammunition were added.
The Tamiya M40 certainly makes for an impressive display with the crew figures. Some modellers may want to push the detail further with the barrel and ammunition set from Tamiya, maybe some aftermarket tracks and the inevitable aftermarket photoetch which is going to make for a very expensive project.
I’m pretty satisfied with the results with only the few tweaks I’ve made, another enjoyable build from Tamiya.
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Manuel Reinher models a Flammhetzer in 1:48
Much has been written about the Tamiya 1:48 kits and the Hetzer is by far the easiest kit I have ever built. My time at my work bench is very limited but the kit allowed a relaxing build within a few sessions. As I was always fascinated by the fearsome and diabolic power of flametanks I decided to use the nice conversion set from Hauler to create this special Hetzer version. The designated Flammhetzer 38 were ordered in November 1944 for the operation “Nordwind” and were organized in Flamm-Kompanies. Some 20 vehicles were converted and saw action against enemy strongholds in the last big offensive on the western front.
Construction Beside the conversion set from Hauler I also used the standard Hetzer PE set from the same company. Fit of the parts was excellent and within a few evenings you are able to finalize the construction phase. Tamiya putty thinned with their extra thin glue was used to improve the surface texture of the vehicle. Therefore I used an old brush an added the mix to the surface in stippled motion. During the construction I also replaced all the plastic handles with 0.2 mm wire and the putty mix also served as a filler around these details. To add some individual touches to the model a small tarp was sculpted using green stuff putty. Additionally I used0.05 mm wire to create the remains of the camouflage wire which was used to attach foliage to the vehicle. The allied held air supremacy during this stage of the war and Germans tried to hide their equipment whenever possible and so I thought this detail would match perfectly to the setting of this tank. 20
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The final build showing the extra texture created using putty and glue
For some further detail a small tarp was sculpted using green stuff
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The mixed base colors. The not shown dark yellow was used straight from the jar and the green base color applied.
The stencils were created using Tamiya tape
The markings were sprayed using Tamiya acrylics
A first pin wash was applied to enhance the overall look and feel.
The fading of the base colors starts
Base colours:
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The first layers of brown and dark yellow were added.
The winter 1945 was very cold; the muddy terrain had frozen to a solid surface. Therefore I wanted to show a tank with dry mud and some snow effects. This vehicle was my first subject with hard edged camouflage and after seeing Sven Frisch’s results with his brush painted Hetzer I decided to give it a try as well. For the base colour I used Lifecolor products because they work fine in my airbrush and perform also very well used with a brush. The green is a mix of RAL 7016 Anthrazitgrau, 4BO Russian Dark Green and UA 077 German Fieldgrey. The Brown a mix of RAL 8012 Rotbraun and RAL 7028 Dunkelgelb. For the dark yellow I simply used UA 090 Sand straight from the jar. You should always prepare some more
colour and store it in spare jars. This turn out as very helpful for later touch-ups. Before starting the work on the base colours I applied primer straight from the can. This will unify all different used materials and help you to spot any imperfections. Once the primer was dry I started to airbrush my base green colour to the whole model. Next the camouflage pattern was sketched with a pencil and then carefully painted with highly diluted colours using several layers to build up the density. After 3-4 applications I was satisfied with the result, and overall I can really recommend using the good old brush for tasks like this. To unify the whole work I applied several light layers of stain varnish. Now it was time to create the markings. At the
moment of the build there was no aftermarket product for the markings available, so I had to come up with my own solution. I took a side view picture of a Flammhetzer from the internet. Using an image editing program I constructed the dimensions of the markings by reference points on the picture, scaled it and printed it on paper. Tamiya masking tape was used to create a stencil, and the printed paper provided me with the guides to cut the mask. Once the masks were applied I sprayed the markings using Tamiya acrylics and after this I did some final touch ups using a paint brush. Next all the details and the tracks received their base colours. I think it’s important to block out all main colours as early as possible to get a better
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The tank after the fading and speckling
The first whitewash effects were applied. Up to 3 layers will follow.
The remains of the worn winter camouflage.
Between the whitewash applications some filters and streaks were applied
understanding about the overall appearance of your model.
The White Wash After a pin wash using Humbrol 170 Brown Bess and Black oil colour from Mig I still wasn’t sure if I should add a whitewash to the vehicle or not. That’s why I started with the fading of camouflage colours using oils. Small dots were applied and the colours were worked into the surface using an almost dry brush. After this I added some speckles with thinned colours using an old toothbrush and added some first chippings using Humbrol colours. Now the whole thing started to come alive, but I still
wasn’t satisfied with the overall look and so I decided to grab my wife’s hairspray and start the compressor. The faded whitewash was done using the Hairspray Technique. This is a well documented technique, I just want to add that I like to repeat the process to get some finer effects. Therefore I did up to 3 applications of hairspray and Tamiya White thinned with water. Painting models doesn’t follow clear rules in my case. I like to try out things, look at the result and decide how to proceed throughout the painting stage. Between the hairspray applications I started to add some filters and whitewash
streaks using enamels from Humbrol. In between I also painted the exhaust parts using paints from the excellent Dust and Rust set from Lifecolor. The colour was simply dabbed onto the parts with a sponge, starting with lighter and ending with darker tones. Once I was satisfied with the overall appearance I switched once more to oils and Humbrol, increasing contrast with another pin wash and filters to enrich the surface. Oils were also used to improve the look of the exhaust parts. Therefore I used the powerful Lasur-Oxid colours from Schmincke Light to add glazes and rust streaks.
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The base painted exhaust
The hairspray whitewash application is done. Now it’s time for some brush work
The look of the whitewash was improved using a wash and further filters
Lasur-Oxid oil colors were used to create rust effects on the muffler
The excellent range of metal paints from Games Workshop were used to create metallic effects
The mix for the dry mud consists of pigments fixed with thinner
To get some variation, mud in different tones was applied as splatters
The snow effects were created using textured paint.
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Polished metal was created using Boltgun Metal. The smallest wire I could find was used to create the camouflage fixation
A pencil was used to create metallic edges
Pigments and Snow After a quick dry brushing pass with Boltgun Metal from the Games Workshop range it was time to add some dirt. The mud is a mix of Mig pigments fixed with thinner. For some colour variation I mixed Earth effects enamel colour from AK with pigments and applied them using a toothpick and a brush. Wet and oil effects were created using gloss varnish and oils. To finalize the mud work some spots received a pin wash of Tamiya smoke to create the look of fresh oil. As for the snow I did several tests to find a satisfactory solution. I had difficulties creating satisfying results with snow powders and ended up with using Tamiya
diorama texture paint. The powder snow effect mix was thinned with water to get the right consistency and applied using a brush.
Details and metal effects Now it was time to add the side skirts of this little tank. To add some visual interest I decided to show one part of the “Schürzen” in primer red. As base colour I used Vallejo 70814 Burnt Cad Red and weathered it in the same manner as the rest of vehicle. Mainly the tracks and road wheels received some bare metal effects using the excellent metallic range from Games Workshop. For the rest of the tank I used a pencil and rubbed graphite on
some of the exposed edges. The last details to be added to this model were two helmets and the camouflage wire. The 0.05 wire was the finest I could find. It was painted using once more the Dust and Rust set and applied using superglue. As the loops are just simplified on this model I had to work from section to section carefully cutting the wire to the required length.
The small Tamiya kits are a real joy to build and even out of the box they have a lot of potential. So if you are looking for a small project in-between or if you want to start our hobby I think they fit perfectly.
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Panzerkampfwagen David Parker builds Trumpeter’s 1:16 kit
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Part Eleven
In part eleven we return to unfinished business in the engine bay
easy design to replicate and so we decided to use 3D printing
and tackle a replacement engine to bring it up to the standards of
technology to achieve the best results and combine these with
the rest of the model. The Maybach engine is by no means an
more traditional techniques.
This is the Maybach HL 120 TRM engine that the kit provides. I don’t think you need to be an expert on the engine to see that this model is a vague representation and a more in depth examination shows that the cylinder heads are not offset as they should be and are also angled incorrectly meaning that even the basic shape of the engine is wrong so that is not even
a useful basis for adding detail to. Given the complexity of the engine I turned to the possibilities of 3D printing to make an accurate replacement engine and also to manufacture an engine kit for other modellers who want an accurate engine for their mls.
Professional CAD draughtsman Don Campbell took on the challenge of designing the new engine working from a useful set of plans drawn up by French engineers which provided key dimensions and an assortment of
different images for the ancilliary parts and other details. We were particularly pleased to see the Solex logos on the carburetors and the Maybach logos on the oil filler caps.
The CAD design was split into parts and printed on a high quality 3D printer and here the parts are seen as they came off the printer. We made copies of these parts in resin as it is easier to work with and allowed us to duplicate parts if required.
This shows the main components as resin copies ready to be detailed.
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The first job was to apply a subtle cast texture to the main components. This was simply done by roughly brushing on a coat of Mr Surfacer 1200.
I also fitted pins and dirlled holes in the engine block to allow the cylinder heads to be quickly and easily aligned.
The exhaust manifolds were a huge improvement over the plain tube provided with the kit engine but I adjusted the profile to be more rounded where each pipe blended into the main tube. I also added a textured finish and the numerous bolts and clamps which fix the manifold to the cylinder heads.
The oil tank was provided with a locator pin and the filler tube was constructed. The fine lip around the tank was damaged on my resin copy so I used the original orange 3D printed version instead.
I added the central coupling plate in the centre of the flywheel to which a universal joint will connect the drive shaft.
At the opposite end of the engine I thickened up the engine mounting frame and added pin and hole locations for it and the pulley assembly. I added casting numbers to the engine block.
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1 27 The Distributor and Magneto 1 have location pins added whereas the Water Pump and its pulley wheel 2 sit into a shaped cradle.
Here work has started on the three Oil Filter Covers at the base of the engine block. The Inertia starter 3 and Oil Cooler 4 above are test fitted to make sure the Oil Filters will fit beneath them.
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The completed pair of oil filter covers and the Oil cooler 5 with the tensioners for the mounting straps and the hose connector 6 added.
The Inertia Starter needed mounting brackets as well as some other additional details and it slides snuggly into position.
The Inertia Starter also connects up to the toothed ring on the flywheel.
On the opposite side of the block the Electric Starter also need a set of mounting brackets.
I had to construct the pair of rear engine mount brackets using some brass tube for the shaft which carries the engine block. These will eventually be cast in
resin and glued in place but I need something strong to take the weight of the block while testing the fit of the engine.
With the brackets complete I was able to test fit the engine into the engine bay to be sure it fits! Despite the kit having a double floor which makes for an overscale floor thickness everything lined up well and the engine did not foul the
hull roof. The benefits of having a removable rear plate start to become apparent at this stage for checking alignment and ease of access.
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I had been putting off work on the Dynamo because of its awkward fixings to the engine block. I used a pair of plastic pins to join it to the block in such a way that the pins are hidden. I was then able to construct the tensioning
arrangement on the top of the dynamo. I also removed one of the rings from the pulley belt wheel, leaving just a single wheel.
The fixings for the air filter trunking were added using the remodelled oil filler caps from the kit engine.
Lead wire was used to add the lifting loop on the engine block.
Time for one last dry fit of everything using Blu Tac to hold everything together. Once the photos were complete the parts were all individually primed and any imperfections cleaned up in preparation for casting
Quite a handful! The first fully assembled test casting of the new Maybach engine looking quite spectacular, complete with flexible resin fan belt!
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The kit engine mounts are not completely accurate so I made a new set of the non-identical mounts. I used a slightly thicker plastic than scale thickness to carry the weight of the resin engine.
I began to add some of the various pipe details to the engine block in preparation for connecting the engine to the cooling system.
I used 3mm blocks on the hull floor to raise the engine block to the correct position above the hull floor and this allowed me to check positions withount the need to establish the other rear engine mounts yet.
Here the pipework around the oil cooler is added using plastic rod. I drilled location holes in the resin parts to accept the plastic rods.
30 With a correctly sized engine I was able to consider construction of the air filter system for the engine. The overall shape of the filter box was established and a quick test fit confirmed it was on the right track.
The overhanging lips from the construction of the box were trimmed away and the surfaces were sanded. I used trimmed down U shaped profile to glue the lipped channel around the top of the filter box.
The project continues in the next Issue
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Panzerkampfwagen Correction Parts
1:16
Maybach HL 120 TRM Engine Fully detailed replacement power unit to fit all Trumpeter 1:16 Panzer IV kits 36 resin parts with detailed assembly instructions and presentation case £90.00 Price includes costs for tracked / signed for delivery for UK and EU countries.
www.mengafvmodeller.com
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MODELLED BY OSCAR EBRÍ • FIGURES BY JOSE MARIA ILLA It is something curious how a simple picture can inspire us, and as many modellers that was what happened to me during pleasant Sunday night. I spotted on the browser a Challenger II on the top of a little mound with all his suspensions going up and down and I just thought how cool it was. I ended up setting my next project in about 30 seconds. When thinking about the project I was tempted to build a more modern Challenger with enhanced armour, but eventually I decided to stick to the initial idea of the KFOR units. The “old” Trumpeter kit (ref.00308) was the chosen to do this project. After a first release with several mistakes and lack of detail, Trumpeter revised the kit fixing some things. I added two photoetched sets from Eduard ref.35733 and ref.TP070 and the workable tracks from Hobbyboss ref. AB3523.
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I knew for the very first moment it was going to be a tough kit, and to be honest, during the assembly I asked myself several times why I didn’t choose Tamiya’s Challenger. Perhaps it is not as difficult as those resin kits that people used to suffer and love with the same intensity when I was starting my first model back in 2005. The first thing noted was that there are many ejector marks on almost every part of the kit. As I advanced through the assembly I found some simplification and
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soft detail here and there, on the other hand, the anti-skid surface is quite well represented. It’s important to mention that Trumpeter made some corrections to the original kit but Eduard didn’t. The grilles on the engine deck were far too large in the corrected kit, so I had to buy another PE set from Eduard (ref.TP070) to fix that problem. Starting with the chassis, plastic styrene and putty is needed to fill the gaps within the upper and the lower parts as the fit is
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really poor (pic 2). I then moved to the back part, which is very busy and took me several hours. I decided to remove one of the fuel drums and damage the other, as well as making a bundle of tarpaulins with a waving effect because of the speed. That helped me to individualise the model and give a little extra sensation of movement. Apart from that, the wheels and suspensions were glued as the tanks was rolling over a little mound. The kit didn’t have a workable suspensions so I had to
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trim down the plastic parts that lock the position in order to articulate the wheels to the shape of the ground. The kit needs several minor plastic corrections to accommodate the photoetched parts that obviously doesn’t improve the whole build experience (Pic 1). Another big problem were the skirts. They are really poor in detail and I needed an extra effort to finish them. Firstly, they are too thick, so I had to sand down all of them. In addition, the skirt itself is fitted higher than the thin sheet that covers the gap between chassis and
fender, so I needed to thin down part of the piece taking care not to mess it up. (SMChally_Build4) Then I cut the fenders that I wanted to remove, a glued a strip of styrene to simulate that thin sheet. It’s necessary to dig a hole in the upper part of each screw that supports the fenders. As the kit wasn’t thought to represent the model without fenders, I needed to add the supports for the screws of the fenders (Pics 4&5). I used soldering whenever possible to deal with the photoetched as I get a strong
bond, making it easy to manipulate without breaking it apart. This was especially useful for the front mudflaps and the lids of the stowage bins. The work on the chassis basically consists of filling gaps and gluing all the little pieces and handles. The turret it’s by far the most problematic part of the kit. It’s important to test fit all the pieces before fixing because there are some serious gaps between them which have to be corrected. (Pic 3)
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Painting From the very first moment, I knew I wanted a very subtle colour modulation with the airbrush work and then, building up the major parts of the contrast by highlighting the details. This time I wanted to play with a muted palette on the surface and with a more vivid colours on the details. I started spraying the green colour over the surface and working it with two lights and two shadows. Then, after masking the model with “bluetack” I repeated the same procedure with the black. The two references used to paint the camo were the NATO Green (AK 796) and NATO Black (AK 735) from AK. For the highlights and
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shadow I used several references of the modulation set 4BO Russian Green (AK 028). (Pic 6&7) After that, I followed the work with the brush by highlighting the details. At this point, I wanted to make contrast between the base and the different details, so I used brighter and more saturated tones. It’s important to work in thin layers so we can achieve a smooth finish.
Base: Oils In this stage, oil paints were used to unify tones, to create depth effects, weathered paint and to give chromatic richness in general. The classic "dot" technique was used all over the surfaces. It consists of
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applying little dots of paint and blending them with a brush soaked in white spirit. (Pic 9) Remember to apply the brighter tones in the brightest parts of the base and the same goes for the dark tones. Here the choice of palette is individual to the modeller, but for example to enhance the dark parts of each panel and to add shadows I used blue and sienna oils, this time not using dots but by depositing a larger amount of oil paint. Ochre and light grey can be used to enhance highlights too and to make effects of heavy weathered paint especially around hatches.
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Chipping It’s important to practise at least 20 minutes before you start painting the model, so you can get used to it and correct your technique. Chipping is always a tedious stage at any model, but when well done it gives to a model a very realistic look. I started by representing the superficial scratches and chips with a mix of NATO Green (AK 796) and Buff (70.976) for the green and NATO Black (AK 735) plus some White (70.993) for the black. Then I moved to the second round of chipping with Chipping Colour (AK 711) for the deepest chips. Using an acrylic retarder and having ready a brush soaked with water, gives you time to correct any mistakes
Running Gear To represent the dust, earth and mud of the of the lower part of the chassis I started by spraying a thin layer of “Brown
Earth”(AK-4063) you can also do so by spraying a light dust enamel colour. (Pic 12) At this point you can use white spirit to remove some of the product, (Pic 13)and you can repeat spraying other earth tones. After that, several pigments like “Light Dust” (AK-040), “Dark Earth” (AK-081) and “European Earth” (AK-042) were applied and fixed with pigment fixer (pic 14). Once I have all the work with pigments dried, I normally like to make some splashes with heavily diluted enamel earth tones. That helps to blend the tones a little, although you might take care of not overdo them so we preserve some of the contrast achieved with the pigments. I sprayed a light coat of enamel earth tones on the wheels, and after letting it dry a few minutes I removed some of that coat with a brush and White Spirit (Pic 15). Some earth tone pigments were applied and fixed with pigment fixer (Pic 16). “Wet Effects” (AK-079) and “Damp Earth” (AK-
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078) were used to represent wet effects and to give more contrast For the tracks I used a mixture of “Khaki Drab” (XF-51) and “Dark Yellow” (XF-60) (Pic 17). Then I made splashes of heavily thinned acrylics (Pic 18), and after that I used graphite to represent the polished steel zones (Pic 19). To finish I painted the rubber parts with a mixture of “Black” (70950) and “German Cam. Black Brown” (70.822) and I applied some pigments to integrate the tracks (Pic 20). Dust, and final Effects To represent dust over the chassis, I used mostly “Brown Earth” (AK 4063) and “Light Dust” (AK 4062). I used a damp brush with the product and I deposited it on the corners, surfaces and places where it is logical to find dust and earth After some time I blended all these random shapes using a brush and turpentine. When dry the product it brighten a little giving a
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22 realistic look. To represent the same effect you can use pigments fixed with white spirit. You can repeat as many times as necessary, and then retouch it with pigments of different tones applied in small amounts with a small brush. On the fenders, rather than applying the paint with a brush, I prefer working with the airbrush. After spraying some of enamel earth tones, I removed some of the paint with White Spirit and I made some marks with the rear part of a brush. On the rear deck, I used the Pere’s Pla’s technique “Rain-over-Dust” to recreate this effect. Actually, it’s quite simple to get it done, but you might want to practise a little bit first. It simply consisst of splashing 40
very little spots of water over a surface (remove the bigger spots with a brush) and then spray a small quantity of enamel earth tones with a low air pressure on it. The water acts like a mask giving the effect of a light rain over a dusty surface. (Pic 21) To finish the effects I used Sienna oil to represent humidity and damp zones. I worked with three mixtures one of them it almost had no white spirit, 50/50, and heavily diluted. First I damped the surface with some white spirit, then I applied the mixtures starting from the most diluted to the thicker one. I also applied “Fuel Stains” (AK-025) around the fuel caps. Normally I like to add a little amount of a dark earth pigment over the wet surface in order to
recreate the grime effect of the fuel mixed with the dust. Grease and fuel effects were recreated in several places (Pic 22).
Moss and Camouflage Net The last things I added to the model were all the moss on the front part and the Barracuda camo net. After considering some options I decided that actual moss was the best way to recreate the vegetation usually used by British forces. I selected pieces of the moss in sections and then I glued them to the model using white glue (Pic 23) . After that, enamel paints and pigments were used to integrate the moss. As for the camo net, I used a fantastic aftermarket set from Eduard that comes already pre-painted. I
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used Dust&Deposits to recreate dust and then I glued it onto the model using ciano and lots of patience (Pic 24).
Figures When Oscar asked me to get involved in his Project I didn’t hesitate for a second. My figures couldn’t have a better backdrop than his Challenger II. The initial plan was for me to paint a commercial figure but after checking the market we found out that it is very difficult, almost impossible, to find modern British crew, wearing the regular Kosovo uniform from the Balkans war in 1999. I decided therefore to model the figures from scratch. The uniform to recreate was the British standard with the DPM model 95 pattern. After checking photographs of the conflict, I also decided to recreate the flak vest as it is rare to see British crewmen without it when in service. I began with a base made of wire to which I attached, with a bit of kneadatite, the pelvis and chest, and I added a commercial hornet head. Using this base I created the posture I liked on a dummy model. I looked for a neutral position that, at the same time would convey the scene
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as the vehicle would have been moving. After trying several options I decided to leave the commander pointing out something to the loader. Once the position was fixed I attached the hands, also from Hornet, and I shaped the body parts using Milliput clay (yellow-grey). At this point of the modelling I wasn’t concerned about the details, I only wanted to shape the muscular structure which I would then use to dress the figures (Pic 25). The final stage was dressing the figures, adding all the details such as belts, buckles, buttons, etc. I used a mixture of Milliput 75% and Kneadatite 25% for some of the details and the vests, as this is a stickier mixture that allows working better on small details taking longer to dry. (Pic 26&27)
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Painting This was the first time I painted this camouflage scheme. It proved difficult as there is a vast number of patterns depending on the period they were made and colors can widely vary. Once I found the appropriate tones (see coluors table), I airbrushed a black primer and a first coat with a slightly darkened lighter colour. I added a shadow with the airbrush and,
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then, I drew the patches. I did the lighter patches first, moving on to the darker ones in sequence. I added basic skin-tone 815 or Iraqi sand 819 to the patches base colours, to paint the shirt and trousers and I only used the bone-white reference of Vallejo Model colour for the light colour. This made the clothes appear to be more worn than the vest,
which would be quite normal given the vest was not as commonly used. Finally I applied very diluted Burnt Umber under the folds on the clothes to simulate shade. (If not indicated, the colors used are from Vallejo Model colour)
Figure Colour table Lightest colour: Base: desert yellow (70.977) 50% + bonewhite (Vallejo game colour) 50% Highlights: base + (Vallejo game colour 34)
Green: Base: military green (70.975) 80% + sunny skin-tone (70.845) 10% + olive green (70.967) 10% Highlights: base + basic skin-tone (70.815) Brown: Base: burnt umber (70.941) 70% + flat brown (70.984) 25% Highlights: base + bone-white (Vallejo game colour 34) Black: Base: German grey (70.995) Highlights: base + bone-white (Vallejo game colour 34)
Thanks
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I’d like to thank all the people who helped me during this project and three in particular. Firstly, Peter Robinson. Peter was Squadron Sergeant Major and commanded a Chieftain and a Challenger I on several campaigns (Gulf-BosniaKosovo), Peter is also a good modeller. He selflessly offered me help through the process. I also want to thanks both Sara for his support and patience and Jose Maria for agreeing to collaborate without even knowing me. Making new friends is one of the greatest rewards of this hobby.
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Terrain I started the base with a five part wooden case. I filled it with expanded polystyrene using a cutter to make the shape of a little mound. I used modelling clay to cover the case and before it had dried, I fitted the model to make sure it fits the shape of the surface (Pic 28). To paint the flag I mostly used masking tape and a template I made myself with Photoshop. Red was a mixture of Vallejo “Carmine Red” (70.908) and “Lemon Yellow” (70.952) for the red and “Prussian Blue” (70.965) for the blue. I also sprayed an acrylic earth tone on the top of it (Pic 29).
Real earth and “Gravel and Sand Fixer” (AK 118) were used to represent the ground (Pic 30). It’s super easy to use it, as you only need to deposit the earth over the surface and dampen it with a brush or a pipette. I used more fixer to add stones. Then several mixes of enamel earth tones were applied in order to recreate darker and brighter zones and add richness (Pic 31). Little bushes were made using Woodland Scenics grass that I cut and glued myself (Pic 32). Both Woodland scenics and miniNature (silhouette 71724S) were glued to the ground using white glue (Pic33).
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KEEPING TRACK
new releases
Meng 1:35 King Tiger
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It has been a rare privilege to have participated in the design of this new Meng King Tiger and you may therefore presume that any review of the kit will be tainted but I can assure you that this kit very much speaks for itself. This complete kit is to be followed by a full interior which you can add and a separate set of working tracks and suspension which offers a welcome choice without impacting adversely the cost of the base kit which many will appreciate. This kit offers a fixed suspension set up which can easily be made to articulate and a link and length track which will not work with articulated suspension if thats what you want. There is no missing the red oxide plastic but more important is the excellent subtle rolled texture that has been applied to the armour across the kit. Similarly the weld bead detail is first rate and this is the first 1:35 King Tiger to have all the correct welds on the hull roof plate. The kit offers a choice of plastic and turned aluminium gun barrels, both using the same plastic muzzle brake. The aluminium barrel lacks the four holes around the locking ring but they can be drilled into the ring using the plastic version as a guide. There is a photoetched fret with a full set of engine deck screens, the gas indicator mount plates and three ammo sack lids. Clear moulded periscopes are supplied and the kit comes with a pair of crew figures. These are rather disappointing with soft details in areas like the hands. The kit depicts what is a mid production vehicle with bolted cupola and jack carried, but comes with various options to allow more flexibility. There are the two
types of mantlet included and two patterns of exhaust cover. The snorkel port on the engine deck has both covers provided along with two patterns of front ventilator domes. The late gun sight rain guard is already moulded onto the front of the turret should you wish to model a late production vehicle. It is only when you start to assemble it that you can appreciate the cleverness and precision with exact interlocking panels meaning that all the weld beads are already in place. The hull and turret roof are both moulded separately allowing your interior to be displayed if you choose to add it and the precision fit of the hull roof is quite remarkable. The turret roof requires some very slight sanding to allow it to slot into the double skinned turret shell. For those building sans interior there is a clever plug in frame to hold the separate engine deck panels. All the turret hatches are moulded separately including the shell ejector port and a complete antiaircraft MG mount is also included. Negatives? There are one or two. The shape of the stepped pattern mantlet is not quite right but can be corrected, the mounts for the side skirts have an angled lower edge which must be shaved off. They have oval holes and the rearmost single skirt mount is missing. Markings are provided for a choice of four vehicles. Also available is a separate set of zimmerit decals which offer a pre-shaped 3D printed decal for a very quick and easy solution which also looks very convincing. Purists will want to do their own but if this is too daunting this offers a reasonable alternative.
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Zvezda T-14 'Armata' Russian MBT Not the first out of the blocks with a kit of this fearsome looking futuristic main battle tank but you would like to think as a proud Russian manufacturer that Zvezda will have done their homework on the details of this vehicle as it comes into service boasting an unmanned turret and all of the latest technology. Takom's recently released T-14 has had criticism for the lack of features on the lower hull but it looks as if Zvezda have had full cooperation from Ural Vagon Zavod in the production of this kit. Common with Zvezda's new toolings, this looks a very cleanly and finely moulded set of sprues with some very nice details. With economy in mind
(weighing in at around half the price of the Takom kit) we've a very no-frills production, forget the photoetch and fancy turned barrels although thankfully the link and length track looks very nice, bearing in mind also that very little track is visible. The rear slat armour will certainly get attention from the photoetched fiends but generally many modellers will be pleased with the levels of detail straight from the box. A quick dry fit of the enormous hull top promises a good fit, if this is a reflection of the rest of the kit Zvezda have a winner on their hands; a really nice looking kit especially when you take the cost into consideration.
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Takom 1:35 G6 Rhino S.P. Howitzer This unique South African National Defence Force Self Propelled Howitzer was developed out of necessity with a UN trade embargo enforced in the late 1970s, taking an existing 155mm towed gun and developing a wheeled chassis (wheels favoured over tracks due to ease of repair from mine damage) this beast has been in service since the 1980s with the SADF (seeing combat in the Angolan Civil War) and exported to Oman and the UAE. This is a big old box from Takom but we were pleasantly surprised at the relatively simple construction for what appears a complicated vehicle. The only interior detail offered is the driver’s central position (obviously helping with the simple assembly) and
the hull is constructed from flat panels offering nice detail with some excellent features such as the slats of the air intakes. The giant turret is also worthy of note, a really impressive piece of moulding although we’ll have to make-do with an ‘old school’ style of two part gun barrel. A nice photoetch fret covers the essential grilles and the tyres (about the height of a 1:35 figure!) are superb, amongst the best we’ve seen moulded in vinyl with delicate sidewall detail and no flash to remove; a definite bug-bear normally with this material. A couple of SADF markings offer a single colour finish of hard edged three-tone pattern. A nice kit of a unique subject, our thanks to Takom for our sample kits.
Revell 1:72 T-55 A/AM
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Many modellers of more modern armour in 1:72 will no doubt welcome this new-tooled kit from Revell of one of the most widely used armoured vehicles ever, the T-55. Really long overdue from a mainstream kit manufacturer as a new tooling this should prove very popular with the plethora of versions and conversions possible. First impressions of the moulding is excellent with some very fine detail, all clean and sharp with ejector pin marks confined to hidden areas. The hull bottom and sides are separate ensuring good detail with the road-wheels and sprockets very nicely done. Tracks are in a link and length style with the 'sag' of
the upper run already mouded-in. The turret looks a good shape and has separate roof inserts for the optional hatch arrangements, other options are the main gun and stowage boxes to suit either the A or AM versions. The rear engine deck too is offered as optional inserts and no doubt some aftermarket photoetch wouldn't go amiss here. A really good solid little kit from Revell which is sure to be a hit. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit www.revell.de/en
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Kinetic 1:35 RG31 Mk.5 Kinetic have followed up their previous releases of Mk.3 RG31s with the Mk.5 version, a larger vehicle altogether but sharing running-gear components. Visually this version certainly has more appeal as a modelling subject with it’s large roof turret nest (with optional .50 Cal or grenade launcher) and large boom arm which can be posed as you wish. Popping the lid reveals a good heap of sprues which are this time moulded in grey with a few clear sprues providing the armoured glass (this will have to be tinted to be entirely accurate). A small photoetched fret is welcome and even an EOD figure is included; all of this adds up to over 500 parts which tells you this is a kit for more experienced builders. Moulding looks very nice throughout and with the high parts count
we look guaranteed of high levels of detail straight out of the box, there’s a few knock-out pin marks here and there that could be visible especially if you take the option of opening all of the doors and hatches, the interior is nicely done and this version includes decals for the dashboard. Tyres are moulded in vinyl and free from any mould seams or sprue gates, a nice matt finish and convincing ripple-effect to the side wall will make these perfectly useable to many modellers. Markings for the U.S. version are minimal to say the least but there’s some good options available as the use of this Mk.5 vehicle spreads Worldwide including United Arab Emirates and Spain. A very nice kit again from Kinetic and a unique subject.
Dragon 15cm s.IG.33/2 (Sf) Jagdpanzer 38(t) Hetzer Dragon are producing a couple of bergepanzer 38(t) based vehicles, one mounting a FlaK 38 and this one mounting the s.I.G. infantry support gun. Only a handful of these vehicles were converted intended to replace the Grille so information seems a little sketchy with only factory period photos available to our knowledge. Dragon have produced their usual ‘mash-up’ of available sprues along with parts unique to the version, all moulded to their usual high standards with some very fine detail on show. A small photoetched fret and nice aluminium barrel are
included, tracks are provided in a link-and-length style which look like they could prove to take some time to clean up from the sprues but the detail is good. Good interior and gun cradle detail is provided along with ammo storage and the correct pattern idler sprocket. Some cutting of the front glacis is required specific to mounting the gun but the section is moulded as a line internally so this shouldn’t prove too taxing. This is an interesting little S.P. gun which should prove popular with late-war German fans.
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To The Gates of Moscow with the Third Panzer Division Axel Urbanke, Dr. Hermann Türk Published by Luftfahrtverlag-Start Hardback, 568 pages, German and English text ISBN 9783941437296
By any reasonable standards this is a massively spectacular and beautifully produced new book from the team at Luftfahrtverlag Start which presents a quite spectacular collection of previously unseen wartime images photographed by Dr. Hermann Türk. He was a medical officer serving with the 3rd Panzer Division and the book presents his personal record of events recorded from just before the start of the invasion of Russia up until he was wounded just outside Moscow in December 1941. Whilst this is impressive enough, the fact that the majority of the photos are full colour lifts this to a whole new level of uniqueness. The publishers have taken great pains to ensure that the very best results have been achieved with the reproduction of
Mission Models paint
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More new paint? Well, if it’s something that’s better (or easier to use for that matter) we’re always keen to give it a try. from the U.S.,Mission Models are a blast from the past and we certainly remember the high quality of their modelling tools (many of which we’re still using) and it appears the same standards of quality research and manufacture have been applied to a new range of acrylic paints. Having used the primer and Olive Drab recently I can vouch for the claims made about this paint being a pleasure to work with; it really does spray beautifully. The colours are triple-pigmented for maximum opacity (something we noticed) and are lightfast, no additional additives are used to produce ‘airbrush ready’ paint which avoids any premature breakdown or shortened shelf life MM claim. The paint can be sprayed through even the smallest airbrush tip but it’s recommended to thin slightly with their own thinners which we’ve done, also including a few drops of their polyurethane mix additive which improves flow and leaves a silky smooth finish. Water can be used for clean-up and we’ve found the consistency well suited to brush painting A range of primer colours and clear coats are part of the range and colours cover some generic tones and specific military subjects with FS and RAL codes also, colours come on chunky 30ml bottles with a snap-cap and off-set dropper hole. It’s nice to see these guys back on the scene, find out more at www.missionmodelsus.com and on their Facebook page.
these images in what is a beautifully printed book. Alongside the images we have a very detailed day by day examination of the combat diary of the unit which traces the advance into Russia in some detail supported by numerous map diagrams showing the different incidents. Unfortunately the maps are only annotated in German but this is the sole issue I could find. The combat diary reports are interspersed with Dr. Türk’s fascinating daily diary entries which bring the whole book to life while providing a different perspective on the more formal combat diaries. As a result the book is very readable. I think you can see from some of the images here what a great modelling reference this although not cheap because of its massive size it is well worth it.
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German Motorcycles of WWII (Part1) David Doyle Published by Ampersand / Hobby Link Japan Softback, 129 pages ISBN9781944367022 www.hlj.com In the same vein as the Kübel and Schwimmer book here's a great companion for anyone with an interest in the basic mechanisation of the German forces of WWII with a collection of large format period and contemporary images of BMW R4, R12, R35, R71, R74 and the Zündapp KS750. Again, the combination of wartime archive and extensive walk-around photographs of
superbly restored and preserved solo and sidecar-combo machines provides great visual reference for modelling. There's also great walk-around images of the little IF8 trailer / cart initially designed as a man or horse powered cart they were often seen hooked up to the sidecar combos. Another affordable and enjoyable reference.
M1A2 in Detail, Volume 2 Chris Mrosko and Brett Avants Published by SABOT Softback format, 142 pages ISBN 9780997 377446 www.sabotpub.com With a host of brand new kits hitting the market the timing of this second volume on the 'Abrams' is right on the money. Feeling chunkier than their previous releases it's certainly a case of quality and quantity, this is a cracking collection of unique images, if you don't fancy building an M1 when you put this book down you're probably a railway modeller! This book isn't a study of the development or technical side of the U.S.'s MBT but more of a look at the working machine and the crews including the 1st Cavalry Division, 1st Armoured Division, 4th Infantry and the 3rd
Infantry Division participating in the Nordic Tank Challenge. As well as overall views of static and performing M1A2s there's excellent close-ups of internal and external details and stowage, priceless modelling reference. The photo captions are well detailed but written in a laid-back style and humorous at times. Great modelling reference, recommended to anyone interested in the Abrams, and for us, Sabot's best release in their range of modern U.S. vehicle references.
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Mini Art
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We continue to be impressed with the steady stream of releases from Mini Art who realy are the saviors of the diorama builder with a great selection of accessory sets to compliment their building and scenic kits. New railway signal and water pump kits are perfect to pair with Mini Art’s rail track we looked at in the last issue, beautifuly moulded and highly detailed they come complete with clear and tinted parts.More multi-coloured moulding features in the wine bottle, milk bottle and crockery sets; even decals are included for the crates and bottle labels with enough to last many years of diorama projects (unless you’re planning on building a fully loaded milkfloat).
Another useful set is ‘Office furniture and accessories’ including a couple of desks and chairs with a varied selection of 1930s 1950s equipment. A printed sheet of maps and posters is a nice inclusion to this excellent set. Featuring in their recent superb T-44 kit, a dedicated wheel and track set is now available suitable for late T-34s, very delicate detail and superb, sharp moulding make this a high quality and economical detail upgrade which looks like it could be made to fit most manufacturers kitts with little fuss. Check out Mini Art’s massive range at www.miniart-models.com, our thanks to them for sending our samples direct from Ukraine.
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Takom 1:35 Hanomag SS100 Even enthusiasts of classic German vehicle design (myself included) surely couldn’t consider the SS100 attractive in many ways, developed originally in the 1930s as an agricultural vehicle it certainly has that appearance but served extensively as a dependable workhorse with both the Wehrmacht and Luftwaffe and produced in post-war France. Takom’s kit is very much of a ‘flat-pack’ design with the chassis built from separate rails and cross members and the body from separate panels although the engine provided (although welcome) looks pretty basic if you
wanted to display the bonnet open. All of the doors are posable and the interior is well rendered giving good diorama options. All of the sprues are cleanly moulded as we expect from new tooling and the vinyl tyres exceptionally good with good cross-ply type tread detail and superb ‘Kleber’ side-wall lettering. A really nice kit of this vehicle which is long overdue, the set which includes this tractor with the V-2 and launcher from Takom is certainly one to look forward to!
Dragon 1:35 King Tiger kits with Zimmerit You wait for a King Tiger and then they all arrive at once! Before you get too excited these are essentially re-releases of the 2011 kits with the moulded zimmerit. There is a small addition to each kit however with the Henschel turret version having two turret shells, one with the clean rectangle on the turret side for PzAbt.505 vehicles as depicted on the box art. The kit provides decals solely for this unit but manages to get the style of the turret numbers wrong. The Porsche turret version includes a bonus optional portal crane for the turret roof but it comes with rather unconvincing photoetched chains. Both kits were very much the state of the art choice not so long ago and both will still build into excellent replicas of the tank but I remain dubious about the ready moulded zimmerit finish which on both kits although it captures the depth
and pattern is not as closely spaced as it is on the real vehicles. There are also some omissions like the undercuts on the front of the Henschel turret which should be zimmeritted and the hatch plate on the back of the Porsche turret is missing the big conical bolts around its edge. For many modellers the density of the pattern will probably not be a concern as it overcomes the hurdle of adding your own zimmerit. Both kits provide photo etched parts for the screens and similar parts and both include clear moulded periscopes and two sizes of braided metal rope. If you missed these the first time around now is your opportunity to snap these up but the newest generation of King Tiger kits have now superceeded these.
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35 A127
35 259
35L-207
72L-53
G32
35L-206
48L-28
Aber Perfect precission from Poland with a new batch of upgrades from Aber. Starting with the ever popular Tiger I is a couple of sets for the new Rye Field kits; 35 259 is designed for Tunisia 501vehicles, packed with details and including cleaning rods. 35 A127 will fit any early Tiger providing the Feifel air cleaner tubes (with their particular weave). G32 is a simple little set to upgrade Takom’s T55AM with a full grille set and still in 1:35 35L-207 is a full set of barrels for the Meng WWI Mk.V Male and bang up to date for
AK Interactive Diorama Series
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We’ve had some sample of a brand new range of diorama materials from the guys at AK. The M40’s groundwork in this issue was created using this and I found it to perform really well. With everything from desert sand to snow the packs are pretty sizeable 100ml and 250 ml, with some excellent natural textures and man-made effects such as concrete and asphalt. Some of the products are designed to work in combination should you require it such as dry and wet mud and snow terrain and snow sprinkles. Various water effects also feature in the range with liquid (pouring) acrylic and gels. This range will certainly take the guess work and experiments out of diorama production and AK produce some excellent tutorials which can be found on their website www.ak-interactive.com
MiniArt’s new T-44M is barrel set 35L-206. In 1:72 is a brilliant L/48 barrel for StuG.IIIs with set 72L-53 and in 1:48 is 48L-28 for Flak 18 and 37s. If you’re following our 1:16 Panzer IV build these two sets will be of interest; 16 069 is a beautiful set to replace the cylindrical air filters on the Ausf.H (early or G) and 16 112 are generic hexagonal bolts (1.34mm across the head), 30 pieces are included. www.aber.net.pl is the place for more details.
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Kübelwagen and Schwimmwagen David Doyle Published by Ampersand / Hobby Link Japan Softback, 136 pages ISBN9781944367039
If my lotto numbers ever came up forget your exotic Ferraris and the likes, A Kübel or Schwimmwagen (or both depending how much I'd won!) would be top of my 'want' list. Having seen a Schwimmer schwimming at a vintage VW show many years ago I've been smitten (should that be schmitten?) ever since. This new photo study by the very respected David Doyle showcases some beautifully restored and preserved examples in all their glory along with
a selection of large format archive images forming a perfect pictorial reference if you're modelling either vehicle. Detailed captions are included with call-outs for year-models and production changes. Nothing is included showing the undersides of the vehicles but there is plenty of interior and engine bay images with the preserved vehicles featured obviously chosen for their authenticity. I just want one even more now!
Italeri 1:9 German Military Motorcycle and Sidecar Italeri continue to work their way through the old ESCI large scale kits which actually stand up pretty well today and would look respectable built staight from the box due to their impressive size. I’ve fond memories of this kit with it’s soft vinyl parts, springs and tubing it was state-of-the-art in the seventies! The moulding is decent with some flash here and there which shouldn’t cause too much trouble, maybe the vinyl tyres will be a little more tricky to clean up but the detail is decent. Avoiding any statement of ‘BMW’ on the box art (undoubtably due to any copyright issues) but this is the R-75 combination with interesting features such as the axle driven sidecar wheel, the kit includes the hinged storage
compartment, paniers and MG34 (enormous in this scale!). In this series was a Kübelwagen which had a sprue included of personal equipment, it would have been great to see this included to add a little clutter as you probably won’t have anything in the spares box in this scale. A tool box complete with hand tools is as good as it gets. Maybe the figure produced by ESCI might even see the light of day again? The Ampersand book we’ve just looked at would be a great help in adding some detail, easily done in this scale and would prove a really rewarding project, great to see this kit again and we hope Italeri continue the series.
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Light Trucks of the Italian Army in WWII Enrico Finazzer and Luigi Carretta Published by Mushroom Models Softback format, 64 pages ISBN 978 8365281 227 www.mmpbooks.biz With some lovely kits on the market in both resin and injection moulded mainstream offerings, this is a great inexpensive reference from the guys at MMP if you're into those quirky Italian trucks. The development of the vehicles for desert warfare is explained with their subsequent deployment by both Italian and foreign forces after the Italian Armistice. AS42 and AS43 based
SU-76 On The Battlefield Neil Stokes Published by PeKo Publishing Kft. Hardback, 110 pages, Hungarian / English text ISBN 9786155583001 www.pekobooks.com
Der Tiger Volume 2 Volker Ruff Published by Volker Ruff Hardback, 128 pages, German / English text ISBN 9783981690811 www.panzerwrecks.com 54
vehicles feature heavily, not only the trucks themselves but some good information on the guns they mounted. A good collection of period images, plan drawings and colour profiles (including uniforms) make this a very worthwhile addition to the library of any modeller of soft-skin wartime vehicles.
PeKo's WWII Photobook series hits volume twelve with a look at the Russian SU-76, good timing if you've picked up the new Tamiya kit or have Mini Art's stashed away as there's some great images here to inspire a vignette or diorama. One of the most prolific pieces of Soviet armour produced there's a great selection of large format images with excellent captions showing action in the snow covered countryside of the Motherland right through to some of the best quality images of the Soviet push through Berlin. Some quality comprehensive views of a beutepanzer operated by the Wiking Division in 1944 which appears to have had a full repaint by it's new owners. Great visual modelling reference as always from this series.
Volume 2 of 'The Tiger' tracks the introduction and use with Schwere Panzerabteilung 502 with an excellent collection of large format images, very much unseen photographs with many from the serving troops. With such a wide source of images the quality varies but the poorer ones are included for their interest and benefit of completing the 'timeline' grouping from initial testing of the Tiger in 1942/43 to their retreat to Courland and the last Tiger IIs. There are some great images
included of the workshop areas and the reader is certainly made aware of the constant maintenance and support these beasts required, and indeed how frequently they became stuck in soft ground. Each image has detailed English and German text providing excellent reference, a must for Tiger fans and Volume 3 already promised on the Schwere Panzerabteilung 503. Our thanks to Panzerwrecks for the sample copy.
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Dragon 1:35 Sd.Kfz.162 Jagdpanzer IV A-O Rather than revisiting and re-boxing their original kit of the A-0 it appears Dragon have produced a whole new superstructure and combined other sprues of their latest generation Panzer IV based AFVs. While the previous release contained etched metal schurtzen, individual link tracks, metal barrel etc. this release is under the 'Smart Kit' banner with single-run DS tracks and styrene side armour, which is commendably thin although moulded as one continuous length. With the unique curved corners to the superstructure this is an interesting predecessor to the main
production Jagdpanzer IV and Dragon look to have made an excellent job with delicate torch-cut marks and weld seams. A nicely detailed gun breech and mount are included along with other rudimentary interior features will provide enough should you wish to leave the roof hatches open. With fear of repeating ourselves, Dragon's range of Panzer IV based are beautifully detailed straight out of the box with lots of 'leftovers' for the spares bin…could this be the last version of Panzer IV from Dragon? Probably not.
Tigers in Combat III By Wolfgang Schneider Published by Hellion & Company Hardback, 520 pages, English text ISBN 978-1-910777-97-8 www.casematepublishers.co.uk Tigers in Combat I & II have long held a cherished spot on my bookshelves as the definitive weighty tomes on on the tiger units and after a very long gap we now have volume 3! Dont be put off by the quite dreadful cover design with comedy burning tank on the back cover which contrasts with the understated covers of the original books. If you have the original books you may wonder what more there is to be said in this new book but this deals with the technical aspects of both Tiger E and B. It begins with looking at the establishment of the new Tiger units, examination of the Tiger E production line before moving onto training and technical trials. The book now moves onto look at how to operate the tank which is an extremely detailed examination of every aspect of the tank. Mostly thise is focussed on the Tiger E with passing reference to the B and in some cases the ilustrations are mixed which is confusing. However if you want to learn how to start your Tiger this is all you need! Towing, work on the running gear, oil changes, fuel
filters and battery maintenance are all covered. It is all well illustrated with a mix of photos from the original service manuals as well as diagrams and illustrations but again the mix between Ausf.E and B is not always explained in the captions. The bias of most of the contents of the book is swayed towards the Ausf E in a 90 -10% ratio. The roles of the different crew members are examined as well as tasks like rearming, refuelling, towing and rail transport. Tactics are explored along with command and control and the effects of enemy weapons with disturbing images of assorted impacts and holes. There is a small section of colour images, most of which will already be familar and not all are terribly well reproduced with some printed very dark. Photo-wise there are a lot of images in the book - 1200 photos and illustrations so there is plenty to study although as said the Ausf.B gets scant coverage. A worthy companion to the previous books but very much more slanted towards the working of the tanks.
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The SS Division Wiking in the Caucasus 1942-43 Massimiliano Afiero Published by Stratus Softback, 144 pages ISBN 9788365281371 www.mmpbooks.biz
Mushroom Models always offer some great value, specialised topics which is very much the case here with a chronological study of ‘Wiking’ on the Eastern front. Period reports and testomonies along with original documentation, maps and of course an excellent collection of images which all appear to be sourced from private collections. The images vary in quality but there’s some great reference of uniforms,
equipment and excellent armour shots especially of Panzer III and II. A good few images of the seldom photographed Marder IID are featured throughout and it’s interesting to see the contrast of not only the condition of the vehicles but the troops themselves in the images of the summer advance and winter retreat. A good compact and easily read reference for German armour modellers.
Mini Art 1:35 T-54-I
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Mini Art continue to bridge the gap between the T-34 and T-55 with this new release to accompany their beautiful T-44. This is another mega-kit featuring a full interior including the engine bay, individual link tracks, over one hundred photoetched parts, clear parts and decals for four versions. All of this adds up to over one thousand parts with fantastic detail straight from the box but obviously for the ‘builders’ amongst us with some degree of experience. Mini Art realy are going from strength to strength with this kit being possibly their best looking yet with super-sharp
moulding and some ultra-fine detail, such is the extent of the interior work this one is crying out for a scrapyard scene with the turret and V54 engine removed! Some of the moulded cast and armour textures are as good as you’ll see from any manufacturer proving that Mini Art can mix it with the best, another superb kit of an interesting subject and surely a must have for any enthusiast of post-war Soviet armour. Now we just need to get all of these sprues back into the box...
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the War. It should be stated that the diesel
the T-34s thanks to the wet stowage of the
known form of support delivered to
engine powered M4A2 was the only type of
ammunition, after getting a hit it didn’t
the Soviet Union during WWII by the
Sherman delivered to Soviet Union.
explode immediately and the crew had
U.S.A. Among the shipments of equipment
Besides the USSR, other users of this type
time to bail out. The new 76 mm gun
there were of course large numbers of the
of tank were the British Royal Armoured
proved good against German medium
U.S. work-horse tank, the Sherman. Initially
Corps (who called the tank Sherman III)
tanks as well, especially the Panzer IV.
the Red Army was supplied with the 75mm
and the U.S. Marine Corps. The U.S. Army
My model represents a vehicle with the
gun version (around 2000 tanks delivered
didn’t accept diesel powered Shermans for
early layout of the turret containing the big
in 1943-1944). From May 1944, after the
their use. Apparently the Sherman was
loader’s hatch (instead of the later, oval
production switched to the T23 turret
valued by it’s Soviet crews, such opinions
one), pressed roadwheels of the later style
version housing the more powerful M1A1
can be found in their memoirs. Although
(in use from the late months of 1944) and
76mm gun, the Red Army started receiving
they preferred the steel chevron tracks
no muzzle-brake on the gun barrel .
this new type, to bolster the strength of the
over the rubber padded ones the tank was
Guards Units. More than 2000 new
held in high regard, mainly because after
Shermans were delivered until the end of
getting hit it didn’t catch fire as quickly as
T
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he lend-lease programme is a well-
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1:35
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This particular tank, with tactical number
The stowage layout is loosely based on
of a diorama hence the crew looking
330, was supposedly photographed at
the war time example. Another thing that
around the tank as if they were driving
Torgau, April/May 1945, probably after
caught my eye was a huge fuel leak on
through a post-battle terrain.
the German surrender. Initially I had a
the side, covering almost half of the
The sponson’s slogan means “The
different plan for the model being built
sponson. The crew member in charge of
Russians always beat the Prussians”,
as a Sherman operating somewhere in
refueling had to be a really clumsy guy,
and is a quote after the Marshal of the
Austria, based also on a wartime photo
but a great touch for modellers to
Russian Empire, Suvorov, who replied
hence the T49 tracks, fuel barrel stowed
replicate.
with the words to the Tsar while the
on the engine deck etc. But when I saw
Initially I planned only a three man crew
latter insisted on implementing Prussian
the set of pictures showing the “Torgau”
visible outside the tank but later on I had
army drills in his own army.
Sherman I immediately changed my
the idea to add a fourth in the loader’s
mind. The slogan and stripes on the
hatch. Fitting another figure to the hatch
I would like to thank Melius Manu from
turret (either black or red, I choose red),
once it was glued to the turret became
Poland for designing and supplying me
tree logs, tarps and damaged road-
more difficult than I thought but
with the unique decals for this model.
wheel were the details that made me
eventually I did manage to squeeze him
want to build that particular Sherman.
in there. The tank will later become part
One of the weakspots of the Dragon kit is the lack of some of the welds. To replicate missing ones I used Greenstuff that was first rolled to a thin, long roll.
In this picture you can see, as already mentioned, that initially I had a completely different idea for the model, Modelkasten T49 tracks can be seen here, commonly used on Red Army Shermans. Some of the work had to be undone to match the tank in my reference photographs. No doubt I’ll used the items on a future project.
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Then I applied the putty to the right areas, pressed into place with my fingers.
Using one of my sculpting tools, a sharpened toothpick, I created the texture of the welds, then they were smoothed with a brush soaked in warm water.
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The effect is clearly visible here
The tank in the wartime photos has it’s T48 tracks worn nearly to the limits. Since I decided to use the vinyl offering from Tasca I had to work on the rubber pad surfaces a bit to wear them out, to do this I used dremel and course sand paper
Since the model was supposed to be painted in a more traditional way with no colour modulation involved, I sprayed a layer of Lifecolor’s Olive Drab UA 222 (from their Olive Drab paint set).
Later the tracks were painted overall with Humbrol 72 earth tone, then the rubber pieces were brush painted with Lifecolors’s anthracite.
Here you can see the turret with red stripes masked and sprayed, the cast surface textures are enhanced by polishing with powdered graphite.
The hull undergoing the same treatment as the turret...
A comparison of the ‘flat’ looking hull with the turret, here you can see I’ve already painted the edges of the road wheels with a polished metal look (Modelmaster silver metallizer was used).
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I repeated the graphite process several times by rubbing it onto the model with my fingers and cotton tip to get to the less accessible areas of the model. The tarp over the .50 cal Browning was done using a tissue soaked with water/white glue mixture.
Weathering was done using Tamiya Buff sprayed over a layer of hair spray, no pigments were involved in the process (later on I only applied them on the tanks rear, to add texture to the dusty look).
The tarpaulins after weathering. Note also the oily effect of the diesel spills
The tarps in this case were made using lead foil that was cut to smaller squares of different sizes and then bent accordingly to the contours of the model
Custom made decals by Melius Manu applied to the model
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More of the decals on the turret, the tactical number was later treated with some filters to give it more battle worn look. Diesel fuel runs were done using AK Fuel stains effect.
The hull is several steps into the weathering process here with the Tamiya buff over hairspray then scrubbed with water obtaining the random ‘patchy’ effect, the turret’s yet to receive dust layers.
My partially scratch-built crew, the commander’s and loader’s heads come from Alpine’s range, the rest are Hornet’s with scratch-built tanker helmets. I used Magic Sculp for their bodies and clothes, Greenstuff for gear such as helmets, buttons etc.
A look at the rear progressing, tarps were weathered mainly with Mig Productions Neutral Wash, one of my favourite mediums for weathering, you can also see the damaged rear rack and lack of the cleaning rod parts (stowed by the crew behind the loader’s hatch).
The tricky job of positioning the crew, ultimately there will be two figures in the loader’s hatch, trickier still!
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For the buckets and large funnel for pouring the fuel I used the Eureka XXL photoetched set.
Fitting the loader in his hatch along with the second crewman was not an easy task but happily I managed to get the look I wanted.
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AK Interactive 2.7 mm lenses, dedicated for Sherman tanks appeared to be the best solution for my model, the lights come from a Tasca kit. The lenses add a final touch of realism to my Soviet ‘Fury’.
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only
£22
.95
116 pages featuring three modelling projects based on an extensive 40 page reference section of retired Russian armour. Packed with step-by-step scratchbuilding, detailing, painting and extreme weathering along with groundwork techniques. Scrapyard Armour is available for a limited introductory offer with free postage.
www.mengafvmodeller.com
