AFV Modeller - Issue 95 (2017-07-08)

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95 JULY/AUG 2017 • £6.50 UK $15.99

Meng AFV Modeller

July / August 2017

www.mengafvmodeller.com

Scammell! HOW TOW CAN YOU GO?

BUILDING THE NEW 1:35 SCAMMELL SV2S FROM IBG MODELS

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CONTENTS 2

PLZ05 Adam Wilder gets digital with the Meng Chinese 155mm self-propelled Howitzer.

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Anatomy of a Tiger Charlie Pritchett disects the Takom King Tiger.

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Recovery Position IBG’s new Scammell SV2S taken for a test drive by Dirk Eickholt.

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Panzerkampfwagen IV Part 13 The Editor continues detailing Trumpeter’s 1:16 kit.

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Winter Warrior Lukasz Orczyz Musialek goes to town on Dragon’s Tiger 1 E.

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Keeping Track New releases.

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Valentine Stan Spooner feels the love for Tamiya’s new 1:35 Valentine.

Meng AFV Modeller is published Bimonthly by AFV Modeller ltd Old Stables East Moor Stannington Northumberland NE61 6ES Tel: 01670 823648 Fax: 01670 820274 Editor and Designer: David Parker email: [email protected] Deputy Editor: Mark Neville email: [email protected] Sales Director: Keith Smith email: [email protected] Proof Reading: Jim Chandler ISSN 2059-4305

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AFV Modeller welcomes contributions from interested parties, but cannot accept any responsibility for unsolicited material. The contents of this publication including all articles, drawings and photographs originated by AFV Modeller ltd become the publishers copyright under copyright law. Reproduction in any form requires the written consent of the publisher. Whilst every care is taken to avoid mistakes AFV Modeller ltd. cannot be liable in any way for errors or ommissions.

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Meng’s 155mm

Adam Wilder embraces the challenges of the digtal age

Today in the scale modelling world manufacturers such as MENG and Hobby Boss are offering good kits for Chinese subjects that are little known in the West. These AFVs are interesting for modellers because they are unique. Although having a Russian appearance modern Chinese armour is interesting because these vehicles give us the opportunity to apply a number of diverse camouflage patterns that separate them from other modern subjects. The Chinese tend to use some different digital schemes on their AFVs, sometimes containing unusual bright colours. Around a year ago MENG released the PLZ05 155mm Chinese Self-Propelled Howitzer. Along with the shape of this huge AFV, the

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digital camouflage seen in the illustration on the box art instantly caught my interest. In fact, I found the box art as a whole to be one of the most attractive ones that I have ever seen. When viewing the instructions after receiving the kit I found that there was an example of a digital camouflage used when some PLZ05s participated in China’s 60th National Day Parade in 2009. I felt this example to be much more interesting. During this article I will demonstrate how this digital camouflage was masked and painted. After, I will discuss how the model was subtly weathered. First let’s quickly talk about the model’s construction.

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C h i n e s e S e l f - P r o p e l l e d Howitzer

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straight out’ the box MENG, in my opinion, is one of the best of the new companies to have started producing injection moulded scale model kits over the recent years. I found the assembly of the parts and details located on the upper front hull to be a little complex. In general the model assembles nicely. The plastic individual track links are a “snap-together” type and somewhat fragile. Although designed to be workable, once assembled they should be glued in order to keep them straight while containing the proper slight sags seen between the return rollers. After taking photos of the assembled model, I disassembled the larger details such as the huge gun, turret and running gear to facilitate painting.

By sheer chance, while looking for photos of PLZ05s on the web that took part in China’s 60th National Day Parade, I came across a selfadhesive mask set from DN Models. DN Models at www.dnmodels.com produces adhesive mask sets to help with camouflaging for all types of subjects. Surprised by this stroke of luck I immediately ordered two sets. I knew that having a few sets would be handy because I would most likely make mistakes while masking the model. After I started the masking part of this project I found the nice colour illustrations in the instruction booklet of the MENG kit to be a very good reference to follow so let’s get started.

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masking madness

It is always easier to paint darker tones over lighter colours, so after priming the model I started with the light green colour, which I mixed using AK Interactive acrylics. I thinned the paint a bit, then applied the first coat. AK acrylics spray like most acrylics in that

At this point I started to understand how much of a task that it was going to be to both mask and paint this digital pattern, so I decided to apply the masks to all of the flat areas of the model first. You will need a few fine sets of tweezers to both place and press the masks onto the surface. As I moved onto the parts of the model containing more details progress slowed a bit. As with most masks, they will need to be cut in order to properly get them to fit around the different parts of the model. I had to cut and fit and alter each of the masks. A pencil, straight edge and sharp hobby knife were necessary for this task.

the first coat is a bit difficult to apply evenly but the second and third coats cover the subject fine once they have a base to grab onto.

Considerable time was required to cut and locate each of the sections that would make up this complex pattern. At this point the camouflage was about half finished.

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I decided to move on and airbrush the dark green tone next. Other details, such as the wheels, were painted at this time. Keeping details such as these separate from the model makes painting

them so much easier. I kept all of the different colours that I mixed for the camouflage in jars as I would need them in the upcoming steps.

First, I carefully removed the parts of the mask that only made up the black areas of the pattern. Next, I outlined the edges to ensure that these areas were authentically straight with right angles. After outlining the black patterns I painted them in. A few layers were needed to get these areas opaque. After all of the grey-black sections were applied, I used the dark green paint to go over and fix any of the shapes around the greyblack areas, keeping the different parts of the digital pattern tight.

When brushing the squares of the camouflage you will need to go back and forth between the colours. After painting a missed light green square I needed to go around it with the darker green tone in order to make sure that it was properly square.

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time to relax...

After applying the markings I airbrushed a few coats of clear over the model in preparation for the washes as they are easier to control over satin and glossy surfaces. I used a dark brown oil paint diluted with enamel thinner for the washes. After brushing a general wash over the model, I also added pin washes into all of the seams and around the details. This step helped to make these

parts more noticeable, while also unifying the different parts of the camouflage. Thinner was used to clean up and remove unneeded parts of the wash. Next I moved onto the chipping process.

I would obviously need to apply the traditional chipping process over this model. I used a sponge to create chips of the dark green tone (that made up the base coat of the actual PLZ) over the camouflaged areas. First, remove the excess green paint away onto a scrap piece of paper. Next lightly touch the areas where you would like the chipping effects to occur. You can use a fine 000 pointy brush to touch up these areas in order to get larger, more random-looking chips. At this time I also brushed on chips over the dark green areas using a lighter tone.

I applied some very fine brown rust tones over some of the green chips. There were a few areas where more of the brown rust would be present, such as over the sheet metal components of the model. Applying rust in a random manner such as shown here is much more authentic looking.

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I added more rust tones over the brown chips using a thinned mix of oil paints and pigments. The pigments will give the regions of rust more different tones while adding a very slight texture often seen on areas of oxidation. Tape was used to create the red and white pattern over the details that appear to be some sort of range-finding poles. Some touchup was needed after the tape was removed. During this time, I

decided to blend some dark brown oil paints under some of the details on top of the superstructure, creating fake shadows and further enhancing these parts.

I painted the MG using a lacquer gun metalcoloured paint from AK Interactive’s Xtreme Metal range. An aluminium colour from the same range was lightly dry-brushed over some of the gun’s details, creating worn-looking areas. These worn areas were slightly blended using graphite from a large soft pencil. After this, some oil washes were applied using a bark blue tone. At this point I was ready to add the earth tones to the model.

I airbrushed a light matt transparent dust tone over the areas of the model, such as the chassis, where most of the earth would be present. This light shade was simply a base for the weathering. The Light Dry Mud Effect from the Nitroline was used to create these subtle areas of dust over the turret and upper hull. You can simply brush this effect on, let it dry for a moment, and then slightly blend it using thinner. Note how focusing this effect in the corners (where dust tends to collect) also helps to create contrast, breaking up the different parts of the vehicle. The Light Dry Mud Effect can be thinned down to make washes like the one applied over the hatch at the front right side of the hull. You can also create rain marks

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with it by brushing on streaks then blending them downward with a fine brush. Larger amounts of the Light Dry Mud Effect were also painted on, then blended over the dust tones around parts of the lower hull that I airbrushed on earlier. These areas of Light Dry Mud Effects can also be subtly blended using the speckling technique. Pigments can be carefully brushed on to lightly blend some of the enamel dust tones that you are not totally content with. Next I moved onto the tracks.

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After airbrushing the tacks with a buff-grey matt coloured base coat, I carefully painted the rubber cleats on the outer sides. I decided to mix a thicker light earth tone in order to add some texture to the tracks. Dry European Mud pigments and plaster were mixed with some of the Light Dry Mud Effect to create this tone. After brushing on the light earth tone onto the tracks a paper towel was used to wipe it from the rubber

cleats. A fresh satin dark earth colour was mixed for added earth tones. The Murky Water Rain Marks helped to add a satin fresh mud finish while the Dark Brown pigments added a bit of texture while also darkening the tone. After randomly adding the tones over the tracks, I wiped the rubber cleats clean, this time using my finger.

The speckling technique was used to subtly blend these areas of dark fresh mud. Washes can also be made by thinning this mix to bring out details over heavily weathered areas. Faint areas of fresh mud were brushed on and then blended with enamel thinner. The same mix was used to create areas of mud splashed up by the running gear at the front and rear of the model.

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The fresh mud was also applied to parts of the upper hull and turret and blended using enamel thinner.

I added some snow to the running gear to match what I saw in the reference photos that I used when weathering this model. The textured snow is an acrylic product that does not shrink, turn yellow or crack once it solidifies. Some Murky Water Wet Effect was used to help give a glossy slushy appearance to the snow.

Watery effects were added to the rest of the model using the Murky Water Wet Effect lightly thinned with enamel thinner. At this point I felt that the PLZ was finished. As a result of masking and brush painting the camouflage this ended up being one of the longest projects that I have ever undertaken. The final result is really interesting and does add some diversity on the shelf next to my other completed models.

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Don’t forget that MENG’s PLZ kit is really nice and that there are a variety of other camouflages that you can use which are equally unusual while also taking less time to apply. The subject is very interesting and I would recommend this model and I hope this provides some inspiration!

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With so many King Tigers available as 1/35 injection kits, Takom decided to focus on offering a full interior with scale thickness armour plate to stand out from the crowd. In this article, I will focus attention on these special features by showing how I created this classic ‘cutaway’ model.

Anatomy of a

TIGER TAKOM 1:35 TIGER II Ausf.B Modelled by 12

CHARLIE PRITCHETT

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To start things off, I needed to cut away the portions of the kit that would allow the best view into the interior. I started by drawing lines on the parts, then began hacking away with a scroll saw (Pic 1). After making the cuts, the modified parts were carefully sanded smooth along the rough cuts. The next step was to match the internal plates of the upper glacis and turret face with the exterior cuts and cement them in place. The result in these two thicker armour plates is a gap between the exterior and

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interior plates, which was simply filled with bits of leftover plastic from the previous cutting operation (Pics 2 to 4). Once the cement had dried, these areas were easily cleaned up with the saw and more careful sanding. The channel in the armour for the gun sight was carved out with a needle file, and internal components were rapidly installed. Due to the removal of one side of the tank, many internal (and external) parts were left out (Pics 5 to 6).

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Painting commenced by airbrushing the interior with A.MIG-017 RAL 9001 Cremeweiss (Pic 7). After this coat was allowed to dry thoroughly, the inside was carefully masked before airbrushing the red oxide primer colour. In this case, I started with A.MIG-919 Red Primer Dark Base, and then went back over with successively lighter shades (A.MIG-920, 921, 922, and 923), taking care to allow multiple shades to show through in the final result (Pic 8). I incorrectly painted the triangular upper glacis support in this colour, but was able to repaint it correctly before final assembly later. Various details were picked out using a brush, using the

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colours shown (Pics 9 to 10). I wanted to turn up the red on the red oxide primer, so I applied a ‘filter’ using slightly diluted A.MIG1605 PLW Dark Red Brown. The internal ammunition stowage parts were all carefully tagged for easier identification in later assembly. Using an airbrush, MIG192 Polished Metal was used in combination with Alclad Polished Brass to paint them (Pic 11). After these colours were nice and dry, A.MIG-091 Glossy Varnish was applied with the airbrush to seal it all in and prepare for washes.

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The Elfenbein surfaces were all given multiple washes using only A.MIG-1003 Interior Wash (Pic 12), while the more dominant red oxide surfaces were given a variety of darker and lighter washes (Pic 13). The floors were singled out for an extra-grimy appearance, beginning with slurries of pigment powders mixed with tap water (Pic 14). Once these were dry, combinations of A.MIG-1408 Fresh Engine Oil and A.MIG-1409 Fuel Stains were built up in layers, adding more pigment powder for good measure (Pic 15). The engine air cleaners were carefully chipped with a brush using A.MIG-192 Polished Metal (Pic 16). After adding multiple washes to the engine components, some final fuel and

oil stains were applied (Pic 17). At this point, all the smaller subassemblies were installed into the model before the hull and turret were cemented together (Pic 18 to 21). The exterior was primed in the same A.MIG-920 Red Primer Base (Pic 22) used on the interior, before applying A.MIG2010 Scratches Effects and a coat of A.MIG-011 Dunkelgelb. Chipping was done using a wet paint brush and an old paint brush handle sculpted into a chipping tool (Pic 23). For the camouflage colours, I chose A.MIG-015 Schokobraun and A.MIG-916 Olivegrun Base (Pic 24). The tracks were airbrushed A.MIG-035 Dark Tracks (Pic 25), followed by a couple of light

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washes, before the contact surfaces were painted with Polished Steel. At this point I stopped taking progress photos due to a camera problem and a looming deadline to finish the model. The exterior weathering was kept to a minimum, mostly due to time constraints. In the end, I wanted to show off the interior of this kit, so I think it all worked out well after painting all the cut edges bright red. Although it was a lot of work, I must say I enjoyed this model every step of the way! In all it took about 3 months, finishing it at the end of the year and just on time. I had initially planned to address some detail omissions in the kit, so I had previously added the vertical dividers in the exhaust pipes and the sighting vanes on the front periscope housing on the TC cupola using stretched sprue. I also managed to get a couple headphone sets installed to dress up the radio. Unfortunately, in my rush to finish it, I overlooked the addition of 3 small PE parts on the front fender, I got overspray on the coaxial MG muzzle, and I simply ignored the periscopes!

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Not usually being a military vehicle builder – I prefer aircraft – I was strangely fascinated by the look of the Scammell when IBG Models released the kit this year. The Scammell, a 6x4 off-road vehicle used by the British Army from 1935, was built in three versions: an artillery tractor, a recovery vehicle and as a tank transporter. IBG have released the recovery vehicle first, as the SV2S version. Its predecessor, the SV1, were mostly lost after the BEF (British Expeditionary Force) was evacuated from the European mainland via Dunkirk in June 1940. The SV2S was introduced in 1938 and nearly 2000 units were built until 1945. The kit covers 5 different versions (Afrika Korps, Russian Army, US Army, South African Army and Polish markings are included). It contains photo-etched parts and an additional cable for the winch. The parts are well located on the runners and the plastic is well moulded and good to handle with very little in the way of flash or seams. The fit of the parts is very good and IBG made sure to represent most of the details of the truck. I’ll explain what I added to the kit; IBG somehow forgot or just left off some parts, which in my eyes are interesting aspects that would make this model more detailed.

I decided to build the version used by the South African Army in 1944. The 6th SA Armoured Division was stationed in Egypt for training purposes and was moved to Taranto, Italy in April 1944. It stayed in Europe until the end of war. My idea was to add a German motorbike to the Scammell as an interesting focus and change of colour. Since the Germans left North Africa in 1942, I decided to switch to the European theatre and imagined how this Scammell’s crew found a German BMW R12 in Italy and “pulled” it out of hiding. I started the kit with the wheels and the engine. The Scammell had a 102 bhp Gardner 6 cylinder diesel engine. It’s well documented and you can find some good reference photos on the internet.

The access panel to the rear body received missing detail with styrene rod and styrene strip.

Everything was given a primer coat of grey and rust-brown which was later revealed using the hairspray technique.

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The completed chassis showing the added detail to the engine and winch.

With this reference, I decided to add more detail to the engine, since IBG had decided to represent only the major components of the engine. Fuel injection, accelerator control and ignition cables were painted with shades of Mr. Metal Color. The engine block was painted with Mr Paint Light Blue (MRP-24) over a coat of Alclad black primer. Some weathering effects were added with pigments and a pin wash. More prominent parts added to improve the engine detail were the oil filter, fittings for the servo brakes and wiring. Next, I adjusted the front axle so that it would be possible to display the front wheels in a turned position. From this point on I worked through the instructions and completed all the steps without putting the major parts together. These were subassemblies like the cabin, crane, chassis and winch which were treated separately

and painted before final assembly. The rear axle received some improvements also; here I added some scratchbuilt springs for the braking system. These could have been easily added by IBG to the kit but then I wouldn’t have had so much fun adding my own! While setting up the chassis I built the winch, which is underneath the rear box. As provided by IBG it looks really nice, but it has some prominent parts that are not included in the kit, mainly the three springs that are welded to the frame of the chassis. These had to be built from wire. I also added some additional details to the dog clutch. It won’t be seen easily when everything is put together, but I know it’s there! The clutch operating lever goes right to the inside of the cabin between the driver’s seat with a rod connecting it to the winch.

After a black primer coat I sprayed Alclad dull aluminim on it and on the edges and in spots I used Revell 32183 rust. After it dried, I put a layer of hair spray over it all and finally painted it with Lifecolor UA 220 Olive Drab. After around 3 hours I started the chipping. Metal parts were highlighted with polished Mr Metal Color Iron. This procedure was mainly done with all parts of the kit, where damaged paint was to be expected (except on wooden parts). Regarding the Olive Drab: the instructions suggest to use a grey-green for the South African version. Parts that were not easy to access received the OD, and the rest of the model was painted with the greygreen. Here I used AK interactive RAL 7008 Graugrün OPT2 (AK705), slightly thinned with Tamiya thinner.

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The crane and the top hoist were next. The hoist was built as per the kit. The crane needed an improvement, something that IBG didn’t decide to replicate; the metal guide for the main cable on top of the small winch, where the crane beam could be extended. It was built from spare PE parts. IBG provides a cable with the kit for the crane extension unit. I looked at a lot of photos to see what the diameter was, as I had the feeling that the one from IBG was too thin. Finally, I decided against IBG’s and used a small chain from Master Tools (No.06624). The cable that connects to the hoist the winch under the body is also from Master Tools (No.06628). The hook itself is scratch built, working to reference images.

The rear unit with the compartment boxes and the crane received a grey Alclad primer coat first. Then I used a sponge to add dark grey enamel paint. A layer of hair spray was applied, and then Olive Drab and RAL 7008. The paint was ‘chipped’ away with a stiff brush and water and finally enhanced with grime and oil stains. The cabin interior was only painted with Olive Drab and details were picked out after weathering. Again, weathering was done with an oil wash and the use of earth pigments. The two fire extinguishers in the cabin were painted with Alclad Polished Brass ALC 109 on a flat black base. The floor of the cabin is wood which probably

The front and rear fenders received scratchbuilt mud-flaps which were painted flat black. I also added the distance indicators on the fenders, something else that IBG should have added to the kit, but easy to make. The little ‘ball’ on the ends were made out of wax. The wheels were first painted with Alclad black primer. Then the rims got some rust colour and hair spray before being painted in RAL 7008. Afterwards, the rims were covered with masking tape. The tires were then painted with Mr Paint Tyre Rubber MRP-173. At this point I had to decide how to achieve the dirt effect tires and the profile. I went for thinned Tamiya XF-57 Buff and airbrushed in that way that the inside of the profile received the most. Not letting it dry too long, I took a cloth dampened in Revell Thinner and removed the XF-57 on the outside of the tyre profile. The rest of the tyres were also then

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would have been better enhanced by scribing before painting. The outside of the cabin, the bonnet, the radiator and the rims were primed with gray Alclad primer, Revell enamel rust, hairspray and a top coat of RAL 7008 from AK. The black camo-areas were added with Hataka Blue-black HTK-A224 by careful brush painting. After chipping and weathering with rust pigments and Mr Metal Color ‘Iron’ I airbrushed a layer of Ultra Matt Varnish from AK over everything. Finally, I added European earth pigments with a fine brush. Pigments adhere better to the final matt finish.

treated with a sponge moistened with Revell thinner. Finally I applied European Earth pigments, brushed off in places and sealed with a pigment fixer. The rims received some chipping and a dark oil wash with a final layer of Ultra Matt varnish. Now I needed to complete the second part of this project, the BMW motorbike. I considered the BMW R12 from IBG at first, but after completing the kit I was not satisfied with the wheel spoke detail. I switched to the Zvezda BMW R12 and the PE upgrade from Voyager. This was finished in only two days and added to the back of the Scammell with a rope and a chain. Finally the whole model got another highly thinned coat of XF-57 all around. Even though vehicles aren’t my usual subject, the project was finished in only four weeks; surely testimony to the quality of this recent release from IBG who have a great range of British softskins. Let’s look forward to the tank transporter version of the Scammell!

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Leaving the model as subassemblies allows full access for painting. The winch operating rods which pass through the rear of the cab can be seen clearly here.

With the rear body in place the driver’s side of the cab and the cab roof are last to be installed. Thankfully the fit of the parts is good enough to allow this method of pre-painting.

The blue-green of the engine block and cylinder head are typical of British vehicles of the period and adds a welcome splash of colour.

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Panzerkampfwagen David Parker builds Trumpeter’s 1:16 kit Work continues on fitting out the engine bay with the cold weather pre-heater system and revisions to the cooling system that was constructed in Part 12. New information about the cooling pipework showed some errors that I was not happy to leave uncorrected so I modified my original parts. Then it was on to adding the finer details to the engine with the exhaust pipe connectors and onto the complexities of the fuel feed and primer

Part Thirteen

systems. The engine bay is now a crowded space and the demands of working inside what is an open top box with virtually nothing permanently fixed are considerable. My decision to modify the rear hull plate so that it remains detachable has really paid off at this stage in allowing access for the continual test fitting that is required to get all these individual parts to fit.

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The pre-heater system with its complex pipework was not a part I was looking forward to constructing. The system allows a blow torch to be introduced via a port in the rear to heat the engine coolant in the collar 1 with the hot air exiting via the ‘fishtail’ to heat the fuel pumps / starter motor area.

With the main pipe established using platic rod with a plastic tube sleeve and the fishtail shaped from a solid block, brass strip was soldered to provide a secure mount. A candle flame was used to heat and shape the first connection from the collar to the input of the oil cooler.

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In a revision to some of my earlier work the lower connection 2 runs from the base of the radiators to the underside of the collar

In test fitting the whole assembly I had to check that the pipes did not foul the exhaust manifold and that the radiator connection would pass over the auxiliary generator.

I rigged up a small support strut to hold the pre-heater at the correct height so that I could remove the rear panel and check the alignments. With nothing fixed in place considerable patience and constant checking is required.

Once I was happy that everything fitted as required I added the sleeve connectors using lead sheet and self-adhesive aluminium foil strips as well as the welds around the collar joints.

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I returned to finish air filter system by priming and sanding the pipe work to eliminate any remaining seams. I then added the small welds that pipe work has using fine red Slaters plastic rod. When liquid glue is applied the rod gives a good irregular weld texture.

More primer seals everything and reveals any flaws that need attention.

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I added the connector sleeve where the tube connects to the air filter box again using lead foil and self-adhesive aluminium strip. Lead wire with a crimped end was used to make the tighteners.

Final touches to the air filter box were the clamps 3 running across the top of the box and the wingnut clamps.

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4 Returning now to the pipes connecting the top of the engine to the radiators I needed to make a pair of non-return valves. In the course of this I realised that the valve would not fit onto the previously made pipework and I also obtained some clearer photo of the pipework which showed some errors in

what I had done. Reluctantly I decided to rework the pipes based on the new information. On the front pipes I added thinner connector pipes 4 and 5 and added the angled section to align with the radiator 6.

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On the rear pipework I retained the original valve but replaced the other pipe with thinner diameter rod and I revised the shape of the ‘S’ section 7. I used liquid putty to build up the thickness of the pipe where it joins the valve and I made a new feed from the water pump from 0.8mm copper wire with the

correct U bend shape. With the new shape established and the parts connecting correctly to the radiator I added the connector sleeves as before and finally fitted the handwheel and the new non-return valve 8.

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Time for another dry run to check as far as possible that everything fits and connects correctly. What seemed like a big empty space when I started on the engine bay is now stuffed with machinery!

Under the radiator I added the vertical spur pipe for the other valve on the heat exchange system. Whereas the other bends in the pipework are smooth this section features a right angled connector. This was made from larger

9

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The rest of the pipework 9 was shaped to follow the contours of the radiator emerging close to the other valves.

diameter rod which was heated and bent with two punched discs at each end for collars.

10

The other non-return valve was fitted to the end of the new pipe. At this stage I am uncertain if the pipework 10 is fixed to the radiator frame or if it is selfsupporting. Fixed seems most likely but until I know it will be left as is.

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I needed to construct the exhaust pipes which join the exhaust manifolds to the muffler on the rear of the tank. I only had plastic tube of the required diameter which would be difficult to heat bend so I inserted a smaller diameter rod into the tube before heating and bending them.

Both pipes are kinked to match up with the holes in the rear plate. This is I think partly to avoid the pulley wheels and belts which drive the fans and are mounted on the inside rear hull panel.

The vehicle uses a flexible concertina pipe to allow for these direction changes which I replicated using 0.6mm copper wire which was pre-shaped over a straight rod before being slid onto the exhaust tubes.

Time to detail the carburetors with the fuel lines at the top and the throttle linkage controls at the base.

On the opposite face the throttle control arms were shaped from flattened lead solder which is easy to bend and work with.

With the additional detail added the carburettor assembly is quite a tight fit between the cylinder heads.

The other end of the fuel supply for the carburetors are the fuel filters mounted on the fuel pumps at the base of the engine. I started by making the caps from a disc of plastic with two sizes of rod glued on top. The glass bowl was made from a piece of clear plastic sprue, shaped and polished. I

used lead wire for the frame to minimise the problems of painting the frame which will be an unpainted metal finish. A wire pin was used to mount the filters into the pre-drilled holes in the fuel pumps.

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To replicate the fuel pipes from the fuel tank selector I used some excellent flexible scale conduit tube. I passed some copper wire through the conduit to help with bending it and to form the thinner section which couples to the fuel filter. I capped the end of the conduit with a photoetched brass ring and added a drilled out plastic bolt head connector.

The next stage is to add the pipe carrying the fuel from the pumps up to the carburetors. Unfortunately the pipe appears to have no fixing points along its length and is just secured at either end. This makes it more difficult to establish the shape of the pipes but I manage to get basic shape. Note the overhangs which will be carefully trimmed to line up with the connection points.

12 11 The wire was shaped and trimmed to connect to the first fuel pump 11 and then the connection to the second pump was added with a slight upward angle to clear the fuel filters when they are added.

The other end of the pipe was connected to the input on the carburettor 12 with a small section of Albion Alloys aluminium tube added as a collar.

This T junction connector was added to the pipe using Albion Alloys aluminium tube again. It is easy to cut so I split the tube to fit it around the copper wire and crimped it together before gluing another piece of tube. This junction connects to the engine primer system.

The completed fuel line system in position with the carburettor assembly dry fitted.

14

13

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The primer pump system injects special high octane fuel directly into the cylinder heads via a pipework system. Plastic rod was drilled and used to make the injector points. Brass rod was threaded through them to make sure they are aligned as seen on the bottom set 13.

The remainder of the pipework was 14 shaped using 0.5mm copper wire with hexagonal connectors punched from plastic card using the RP Toolz punch and die.

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The last section of pipe connects the primer pump with the rest of the pipes, unfortunately this is in the narrow gap between the engine and the firewall. Brass wire was used for this section but the final connection will not be made until the engine is painted and fitted.

This is a job that I should have undertaken before starting to detail the engine. I glued pieces of plastic beam to the base of the engine. These will not be visible when the engine is finished but will help glue the heavy lump of resin in place. I also drilled a 3mm hole through the floor and a matching hole in the sump so that I could securely pin the engine, minimizing the chance of it breaking loose in the engine bay.

The main fuel feed pipes have to be shaped to run to a tether point on the firewall and then to connect to the fuel tank selector valve in the corner of the engine bay.

The copper wire core helped in shaping the pipes but it still took a couple of hours work to shape the pipes within the confined space.

The fuel tank selector valve also needs the pipes which feed to each of the three fuel tanks under the fighting compartment floor. I began by making the fittings for three 1.5mm solder wires and to then shape them to connect up.

This was more difficult than I expected and the position of the auxiliary generator meant that hose would have to flex around it. I started again by gluing three lengths of solder to the reverse of the firewall with epoxy glue.

This time I added the brass tube connectors to the fuel selector valve and plugged the hoses into the bottom.

The fuel feeds for the fuel pumps can then be shaped to connect with the outermost junctions of the fuel tank selector valve.

33 The project continues in the next Issue

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In my opinion the best kits of the Tiger I are produced by Dragon Models, and the replica of ‘221’ I present here comes from their range. I used a fully-loaded ‘3 in 1’ kit No. 6253. It has almost 1150 parts (plastic, photo-etch, metal gun barrel, shackles and more), which gives huge number of options and different options on the sprues. The modeller has the choice to create a late production, a late command variant, or final production version of this tank. I decided to build the late version. To raise the level of details further I added a lot of aftermarket parts:

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ATAK Zimmerit 35032 Friulmodel ATL-06 Aber PE parts 35A10 and 35015 RB Model gun barrel 35B71 and MG barrel RB Model antenna and its mount Eureka XXL towing cables ER-3502

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The kit assembles very well and has excellent detail throughout. ATAK’s resin Zimmerit fits perfectly, and to have more control during the positioning I used the bottled Revell plastic cement. When it dried I used super glue to finish the edges for a stronger bond before starting to replicate the damage. First, I marked out the damage with a pencil, and then I cut the edges with a sharp blade and the inner areas were ‘chipped’ away.

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The sheer amount of photo-etched parts made this a timeconsuming part of the build. The exhaust covers come from the kit’s fret (it was really difficult to bend them and drill the tiny holes because of the brass thickness) and the rest is from basic Aber set. My intention was to make a damaged “war veteran”, so along with the damaged Zimmerit many of the photo-etched sheet-metal

parts were also damaged, the fenders were bent and dented and the turret bin shows signs of shrapnel damage. The most extreme damage are the signs of direct hits made by drilling indents first and filling the holes with Milliput. A toothpick was used to create the final shape working from reference photographs.

I like to use the Black Primer from Vallejo. All parts were mounted on cocktail sticks and wooden skewers, making them easy to handle and allowing good access while airbrushing.

Deconstructed! All of the components ready to start the paint process.

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The hairspray technique helped to achieve the realistic scratches. I used the red brown acrylic to brush more controlled scratches.

The Zimmerit damage shows the primer red painted at this stage. The decals needed to be softened and the Microscale Set and Sol works perfectly.

Camo The lower hull and the turret were painted with Vallejo 982 Cavalry Brown to simulate the primer red. When it had dried a little I applied hairspray to allow removal of selected areas later. With the Tamiya acrylic I prepared the dark yellow base, followed by red-brown and olive green. The main gun was painted with 866 Grey Green to simulate the heat resistant primer. It was a nice touch to break the yellow-green- brown base and the whitewash finish. To finish the other details I brushed a wide selection of Vallejo paints. Battle Scars To show my model as a veteran I needed to enhance the signs of battle damage I’d created at the build stage. Original pictures are very helpful in obtaining realistic paint damage around the shot impacts and creased metalwork.

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Chipping The first paint damage was created after the camo was airbrushed. The hairspray applied earlier acted as a barrier between the primer red-brown and camo colours. Gentle scrubbing of the top coats with a stiff-bristled brush and warm water revealed random scratches through to the primer. Whitewash Before whitewash was applied I covered the whole kit with AK Worn Effect Fluid to have an easy solution to wipe off the winter camouflage. The two coats dried quickly and I sprayed over with white acrylic paint. For a varied, realistic finish the white coat was airbrushed in different densities. I used old brushes, cotton buds and toothpicks and warm water to remove the white to various degrees. The result was promising and I started straight away with the next steps.

Filters and wash Before an overall wash was applied I tinted some surfaces of the model with grey filters. I wanted to cancel out the ‘sandy-yellow’ look of the previous layer over the white which created subtle blends between each panel. Also, some ‘mapping’ with stronger white was applied by brush. AK Winter Wash and Streaking Grime was the final layer applied, enhancing contrasts and giving depth to the detail.

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Exhausts During the build I hadn’t decided if I would be using both of the exhaust shields, so had to finish the mufflers in rusted tones. I used only Vallejo paints; starting with a Cavalry Brown base, then with different red and orange shades applied by sponge, creating a rusted effect. With Volcanic Sand and Black pigments I simulated the soot stains, and tones of rust-coloured pigments gave the look of fresh surface rust. Spare tracks The Tiger’s spare tracks are a great area to show weathered bare metal finishes. Before painting the spare links some realistic track pins were needed. I found what I needed in my wife’s sewing kit. Placing some steel pins in the chuck of my minidrill, I sanded the heads to proper dimensions and cut them to fit into the

Friul tracks’ holes. I was pleased with the results of this touch of extra detail. The painting of the spare links was based on the same methods as the rest of the model. The base colours (greys and browns) were covered by white and then scraped with an old brush and a toothbrush. A worn white camo was enriched with different shades of rust. For this purpose I used the new AK oil paints and Light Rust Wash.

some coats of mud, The areas under the mudguards, where they’ve been removed on the hull sides, show traces of older dried mud. The wet finishes on the wheels were applied when this feature was being added to the tracks to keep the colour and texture uniform.

Wheels IIn this case the wheels aren’t damaged, as the rims are steel, but because of the winter conditions they’re covered with heavy build up of mud; dry textures first and then fresh and wet deposits on top. Also, the hull sides and bottom received

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A unique touch; the wooden plank with the nick-name. Fixed with thin wire this adds an interesting touch of colour.

The first pigment work on the chassis. It was necessary to build the appropriate densities for next step in the weathering process.

Mud (chassis & tracks) The fresh winter mud was mixed from Russian Earth pigment, plaster, acrylic resin, saw dust and static grass mixed together with satin varnish. I created a dark ‘wet’ shade suitable for the winter weather and terrain conditions. Finally, to give a sheen to the wet areas, they were soaked with Wet Effects. The Friul tracks were treated in the same way. They were sanded on the contact areas (revealing the bare metal) and then fixed to the model. They give the model a look and feel of weight and have the exact appearance of the sag across the wheels. So now onto the last steps… Winter Streaking Grime Thanks to this clever potion we can easily get very nice traces of battlefield filth much faster than typical oil paint fading. Since I started using this liquid I’ve found it to be one of the best inventions from AK. With the help of White Spirit I painted this on all surfaces.

The mud was a mix of pigments, saw dust, acrylic resin, acrylic glossy varnish, static grass and dried

Stowage From the beginning I was wondering how to create something interesting from all angles on this Tiger. During the painting stages I came up with the idea that I could present the tank after refuelling. With Tamiya's barrels, jerry cans and other items of detailed ‘clutter’ I added, removed and swapped around the elements until I was happy and called my veteran winter tiger complete.

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AK fluids are perfect to make the weathering process easy and fast. Here two grimes were used.

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KEEPING TRACK

new releases

Meng 1:35 BMR-3M Mine Clearing Vehicle

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The eleventh release in Meng’s Stegosaurus series is the fearsome-looking BMR 3-M, the latest armoured path-breaking vehicle fielded by Russia. It sports the KTM-7 mine clearing unit consisting of the large rollers and electromagnetic attachments. This latest version has the comfort and safety of the crew of paramount importance with facilities to enable three days of operations in the closed down vehicle. Meng have needed to use one of their chunkier boxes for this kit, inside there’s a big bundle of tan coloured sprues (we prefer this to the dark green on a complex vehicle such as this) clear parts, braided metal wire (to replicate tow cables), nicely scaled chain, poly-caps and photoetch (including a wheel-painting mask). Tracks are workable individual links supplied in black with softer push-fit end connectors. Moulding is Meng’s usual state-of-the-art production with some parts familiar from their T-90 based kits, namely the

wheels, lower-hull and excellent tracks which at first look a little daunting but actually assemble quite swiftly due to the clever design but are delicately detailed while remaining robust. No interior is included but very little could be seen on the finished model to be honest, the crew compartment assembly is made simpler by the ERA blocks designed to be added in sections with some superb and delicate detail on show including the remote MG cupola. With no turret to assemble that time is focussed on the mine roller which has more stunning detail throughout, we’re hard pushed to imagine how the aftermarket guys will find any ways to improve this kit as it’s so richly detailed and well designed. Three colour schemes are included, all from Russian Arms Expos as to our knowledge the BRM-3M hasn’t yet been used in any modern conflict. This level of detail straight from the box proves again we are in a golden-age of modelling, enjoy it!

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Meng 1:35 Middle Eastern Refuelling Equipment New in the 'Supplier' series from Meng are these excellent resin fuel pumps, typical of any modern filling station or garage. The pumps are double sided and fit together beautifully from just a few parts with sharp details. These would make a great focal point of any modern diorama or vignette and could add a real splash of colour. Copyright laws have probably restricted the inclusion of any fuel company logos but we've had good results with some of the decal papers available for the kind of printers many of us have access to at home and images are plentiful on-line. Check www.meng-model.com for details of other modern diorama accessories available.

GTG Resin

Best known for their superb click together resin tracks (some formally produced by WWII Productions) Australian GTG are hard at work down-under adding to their range of detail sets. In 1:35 are a set of six German ‘Notek’ lights which are beautifully detailed right down to the manufacturer’s pressed logo. In 1:16, and already put to use on our Panzer IV project, are a set of various sizes of bolt and nut heads perfect in the larger scale for adding finesse. Also in 1:16 are a set of various wing nuts, all very finely moulded. Head over to www.gtg-resin.com where you can buy direct and browse the full range available.

Master Box

RADO 1:35 SS Panzer Grenadier

'Somewhere in Saigon' is the title of this new release in MB's 1:35 Vietnam War Series and is very reminiscent of a scene from a famous movie with the most excellent illustrations on the packaging; worth the purchase price alone! Of course what's important is the figures themselves, these too are rather excellent with crispness of detail and anatomy as close as you'll get to resin figures (actually better than some). The five figures will work really nicely as an interacting group, individually, or paired- especially the females who although suitably dressed for the sixties wouldn't look out of place in a modern scenario (we follow fashion very closely here at AFV modeller…) www.mbltd.info has more details of their creative and top-quality figures and vehicles.

A new name now and the first figure release from the well known modeller Radek Pituch who has been sculpting his own figures for many years. He has now launched his own range beginning with this Panzer Grenadier from SS Panzer Regiment 12 from the Normandy campaign. The figure has a great natural pose with his MP 40 slung over his shoulder (you will need to add your own sling for this) and he would easily adapt to regular tank crew. Casting is excellent with separate head, arms and weapon. A great start to what promises to be an interesting range of figures. www.facebook.com/radominiatures

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M1ABV, Warmachines 1 By Chris Mrosko, Brett Avants, Pearce Browning Published by SABOT Softback format, 65 pages ISBN 9780997 377460 www.sabotpub.com

Stryker MGS, Warmachines 2 By Chris Mrosko, Brett Avants, Pearce Browning Published by SABOT Softback format, 67 pages ISBN 9780997 377477 www.sabotpub.com

More to keep modern U.S. armour modellers happy with the first in a new ‘Warmachines’ reference series on the M1 Assault Breacher Vehicle, which although not having a turret mounted main gun, seems to take on a more menacing appearance with it's giant insect style mine clearer. A dozer blade can also be fitted and an MCLC (Mine Clearing Line Charge) is launched from the unique turret roof. Already available as a conversion and now as a complete kit from Rye Fields Models in the current wave of M1 new releases this is another invaluable reference of large colour images which not only provide detailed walkaround shots but demonstrate the beasts in action performing their various roles, perfect if you're planning a project with groundwork too! Essential modelling reference.

The M1128 Mobile Gun System is a multirole weapons platform based on the Stryker family of vehicles (available in 1:35 from AFV Club) and continues SABOT's series of modern US vehicles in up-close detailed images which will be an excellent, inexpensive companion to anyone building this complex vehicle. The majority of the book is dedicated to the walkaround images of serving vehicles in Afghanistan and Iraq highlighting all areas (externally, no interior coverage) modellers may want to add detail to or help visually with the many aftermarket additions for the Stryker. An 'In The Field' section shows various MGSs on exercise during the past few years providing valuable weathering reference. It may have been nice if more images from combat areas of Afghanistan and Iraq were included as the ones shown are excellent, nevertheless a good solid reference source for the vehicle.

Takom 1:35 FV432 Mk1/2

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We've had a flurry of recent releases sent by Takom, first up is this long-awaited British FV432 which has rightly had a great response as it's a subject long overdue as a plastic kit. With over fifty years service there's a great number of versions possible (already a third generation 'Bulldog' has been announced) which is going to keep British post-war modellers just as happy as when Takom released their series of Chieftains. The kit has a partial interior (no engine bay but everything else) so there's a fair amount of sprues in the box with Takom's now familiar flat sprue runners, everything looks as you'd expect from brand new tooling, nice sharp detail with minimal flash. There are quite a number of ejector pin marks but everything looks designed for these to be hidden once assembled. The hull tub is the main building platform and has some superb chequer-plate pattern moulded in, the interior and sidewalls are the first steps before moving onto the suspension arms which are helped into place with the aid of a jig. The jig is

also used for the link and length tracks, the tracks are well detailed but look like there's a lot of clean-up with five sprue gates and two ejector pin marks on every individual link. The runs of track have tiny sprue gates on the side right onto the track pin end, much easier to prepare. With any vehicle still in service there should be no excuse for any glaring errors, the wheel and sprocket detail certainly looks good and the hull fittings with all the posable hatches looks very comprehensive. Photoetched and clear parts are included with an option to build the upgraded version with the roof mounted mesh stowage container (no tarp cover is provided) and side bins. Marking options include the Berlin urban pattern, Gulf War and an OPFOR sand and green.This looks like a straight forward build from the box, even more so if you opt to do just an 'external' version, with really good levels of detail. Well done Takom for producing this neglected subject, can't wait to see the Bulldog!

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Armour In Theatre Vol.4, tanks in the Great War 1914-1918 Mark Healy and Mark Rolfe Published by Guideline Softback format, 65 pages ISBN 9781908565198 With a wealth of WWI armour kits available from mainstream manufacturers (who could have dreamt of this ten years ago?) this new release from Guideline is a great introduction to the birth of mechanical armoured warfare. Aimed squarely at modellers there's a excellent selection of colour profiles (all with what appears to be well researched detailed captions) and period images to aid with considered colour choices. French, German

M1A1 in Detail, Volume 1: Iraq By Chris Mrosko, Brett Avants, Pearce Browning Published by SABOT Softback format, 143 pages ISBN 9780997 377453 www.sabotpub.com

and British subjects are covered with design, development and deployment and focus on major engagements at Amiens and Cambrai in their own chapters with detailed text and diagrams. This is a very interesting and well presented book (although it has to be said the production is like a stapled-spine magazine) with top-quality colour profiles, recommended to anyone thinking of dabbling with a WWI subject.

Following their excellent M1A2 references, SABOT turn their attention to the A1s deployed in Iraq 2003 to 2004. The now familiar format of large colour images with supporting text make these books superb modelling reference, with walk-around detailed close-ups and unique 'in the field' photos providing the ultimate reference of stowage and weathering. There are some really dirty vehicles documented here! The 1st Armoured Division was moved from Germany to Iraq so their Abrams wear the 3-tone NATO camo pattern which would make for excellent modelling material with CARC tan vehicles also featured, the 3rd Infantry division vehicles are subject to some great images of close-up detail including maintenance leaving nothing overlooked externally (including behind the side skirts) and crew positions as viewed through the hatches. A great one-stop reference with some excellent unique images.

On Display, Vol.4 Under the Red Star Published by Canfora Softback format, 96 pages ISBN 9789198232554 www.canfora.se The ever popular subject of Soviet WWII modelling is the latest topic in the Canfora 'On Display' series where well accomplished modellers (many of whom we featured in AFV Modeller) showcase their work with a common theme. The look and feel of this release follows the previous titles featuring quality large format images and clean layout. Eight vehicles (some with crew figures but no groundwork) are featured including T-70 and BT-7 light tanks, KV-

1S and IS-2 heavies and the obligatory T-34 and SU-100. Step-bystep images and text show how the different modellers have tackled the Russian green and it's various tones and deteriorating whitewash winter finishes. Another attractive, easy-going model showcase from Canfora providing good inspiration and techniques.

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British Cruiser Tanks A9 and A10 By Peter Brown Published by Model Centrum Progress Softback format, 88 pages ISBN 9788360672280 www.casematepublishers.co.uk British armour fans will be pretty excited by the release of a brand new kit from a new company, Gecko Models, of the Vickers A10 and here's a perfectly timed new reference in the 'Armor Photo History' series. As suggested by the series title, the period photos are the main focus of the book with some excellent images from archive and private collections. The text is quite brief but very informative with detailed captions accompanying each of the black and white images with call-outs to markings and colours.

This information is carried into the superb colour profiles, no less than ten pages of colour and marking schemes and another fourteen pages of detailed scale drawings of various components and overall vehicles in numerous production variants. This is an excellent modelling reference, nicely presented on quality paper but be prepared to pay a premium; on the pricey side for a softback with less than one hundred pages.

Images of War Special The Panzer IV, Hitler's Rock Anthony Tucker-Jones Published by Pen & Sword Books Ltd Softback format,123 pages ISBN 9781473856752 www.pen-and-sword.co.uk

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We're always hungry for Panzer IV reference so were keen to see this recent release from Pen & Sword. The book is nicely produced and provides what could be best described as an 'overview' of the vehicle and it's variants. As our collection of Panzer IV reference has been strewn around the studio here for sometime (with our on-going project) most of the images presented are familiar and of various quality but all versions on all fronts are covered including flakpanzers and self-propelled guns

on the PzIV chassis. For anyone looking for a potted-history of the medium tank's combat history the text is easily read and understood without getting too deep into unit histories and the like. Some pictures are obviously mis-captioned and fourteen pages are in colour with profile illustrations which are disappointing at best. Not one for the hard-core enthusiast but an inexpensive start if you don't have much information to hand on the Panzer IV family.

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Mac One Models Our first look at Spanish brand Mac One with a selection from their impressive range of accessories for dioramas and figure display. This selection is perfect for modern scenes starting with MAC35162 which is a large (would comfortably fit a modern MBT) road section complete with drain cover detail, just ready to paint. MAC35136 would work well in conjunction, a nicely detailed block wall section cast in resin. More modern detail with MAC35160 which is six superb suitcases and MAC35165 a large selection of

Pelican storage containers. MAC35132 is a set of crates which will add a nice touch of colour and detail to a modern scene. More of a full kit is MAC 35011 to produce an improvised mortar as seen in modern conflicts utilising gas bottles as projectiles. All nicely cast in resin assembly looks very straight-forward. Take a look at www.maconemodels at their full range of kits and accessories including 1:48 and more historical subjects.

Images of War SpecialArmoured Warfare and the Waffen-SS 1944-45 Anthony Tucker-Jones Published by Pen & Sword Books Ltd Softback format,116 pages ISBN 9781473877948 www.pen-and-sword.co.uk

Much the same as the Pz. IV release, this is a general overview of the final year of WWII and famous fighting involving Wiking, Hitlerjugend and Hohenstaufen amongst others across the Eastern and Western fronts. As the actions featured have been well documented in the past, many of the images are very familiar

and again, vary in quality and reproduction but most feature armoured vehicles. The text is easily read and gives a good insight to the action involving SS armour. This is another inexpensive historical reference but nothing really to excite from a modeller's point of view.

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Rolls-Royce Armoured Car Owners' Workshop Manual David Fletcher MBE Published by Haynes Hardback format, 156 pages ISBN 9781785210587 www.haynes.com The Tank Museum's own Historian is the author of this new 'Manual' on the famous Rolls-Royce which served the British and Irish military from WWI until the 1950s. Whether you're an enthusiast of vintage Rolls-Royce or British military history this is a must-have treasure of information and images and a superb reference for the kits available (Resi-Cast and Roden spring to mind, the Editor built the beautiful Resi-Cast kit back in issue 45 and we still have a few back issues available). We begin with the historical development and chapters covering the car's service in

the Great War, interwar years and WWII all including a great collation of period images for modelling inspiration and reference. A detailed look at the Tank Museum's vehicle contains excellent close-up detailed walk arounds and a great section on running and maintaining the cars with period illustrations and sections from manuals. More unique reference is presented with a look at a restoration by Irish specialist James Black Restorations Ltd including progress and component photographs. Another great value packed-out book in this range.

AK Interactive Released along side their book on the subject is a set of two Chinese colours. AK 4240 is eight PLA Army and Artillery tones of sand, browns and greens. AK 4250 is again eight of AK’s 17ml acrylics to suit the Marines and Airborne vehicles, I’d doubt many armour modellers will have much in the way of these punchy blues in their paint stash! Both boxes have a good selection of colour profiles on the reverse. www.ak-interactive.com

Chinese Power Published by AK Interactive Softback format, 240 pages ISBN 8436535576666 www.ak-interactive.com

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Considering the might of the Chinese armed forces it's not until recently that a number of kits have become available to start raising the interest of these subjects in the West. If you've found some inspiration in Adam Wilder's feature in this issue this could well be the book for you. Very chunky for a softback at 240 pages, AK have presented this with their usual flair and stylish graphics with around half the book dedicated to the history of the PLA and their armoured vehicles, it's packed with images and

plenty of high-quality colour profiles. On the modelling side there's a good range of topics covered as step-by-step projects by renowned modellers Sven Frisch, Oscar Ebri, Lukasz Orczyc, Adam Wilder (the PLZ05), Lester Plaskitt and AKI's own Kristof Pulinckx. The complexed digital patterns are coved in-depth and a couple of Chinese built (Type 69 and YW750) subjects fighting in the Middle East are a good contrast. If you fancy a PLA project for a change this is a great insight into the vehicles.

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Centurion MBT Owners' Workshop Manual Simon Dunstan Published by Haynes Hardback format, 156 pages ISBN 9781785210570 www.haynes.com

We're pleased to see these cracking 'Haynes Manuals' being released at a steady rate and the Centurion is a great subject for modellers. As well as the now familiar factory diagrams, colour and black and white archive images and walk-around style close ups there's expertly written text which begins as expected with design and development. Included in this first chapter are the various marks explained and the multitude of export versions (including the popular IDF version). Further

chapters include a good look at the interior and operating the Cent with some excellent reference images, specialist versions such as the BARV, AVRE and bridgelayer and an excellent history in almost sixty years of combat. Praise indeed for what is surely one of the most important (and good looking!) Western tanks and this book does it justice on it's 70th birthday; recommended to any British armour enthusiast and great value for money.

Takom 1:35 V-2, Meillerwagen & SS100 A real Mega-Kit here from Takom with the mobile V-2 launch system, very impressive in 1:35 to say the least! We’ve already looked at the chunky little Hanomag SS100 in a previous issue so briefly, it’s a nice rendition of the tractor unit with a simple engine and chassis detail. Vinyl tyres aren’t everyones cup of tea but the two sets included (tractor and trailer) are as good as you’ll see in the material. The rocket itself has also previously been released separately, although a menacing subject you can’t fail to be impressed by the sheer size but be prepared for some work usually tackled by aircraft modellers with rivets crossing the main joint. As with the SS100 the moulding is clean and sharp. The

Meillerwagen is the all-new feature in the kit, contained on six sprues with some photoetch and metal chain it’s a complex chassis and cradle which looks beautifully detailed but not one to be rushed! The option of transport / raised or launch positions are offered but Takom’s usually excellent instructions fall-short in explaining the choices here. With some very attractive colour options for the rocket this will be a real show-stopper, and as we’re sure most modellers will treat this as three separate ‘builds’ it represents very good value. Our thanks to Takom for keeping us up to speed with their latest exciting releases; www.takom-world.com

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Sturmgeschütz III on the Battlefield Mátyás Pánczél Published by PeKo Hardback format, 105 pages (duel English / Hungarian) ISBN 9786155583025 www.panzerwrecks.com

Panzer III on the Battlefield

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Tom Cockle Published by PeKo Hardback format, 105 pages (duel English / Hungarian) ISBN 9786155583063 www.panzerwrecks.com

This impressive series of rarely or never seen WWII images reaches Volume 13 with the hot topic of the Sturmgeschütz III. The large format images always provide great modelling reference with the in-depth captions calling out MIAG or Alkett production, units and other unique features which will make for some interesting projects. With all versions catered for

(including excellent coverage of the F and F8) and the availability of such a wide range of StuG kits on the market (especially the month of manufacture / factory releases by Dragon) this is an excellent addition to any German armour modeller's library. Nicely presented and good value.

Number 14 in the World War Two Photobook series sees the focus fall on the popular Panzer III. Common to the previous releases in the series the images are king with the familiar large landscape format, one per page style layout with detailed, knowledgable captions from acclaimed expert on the subject, Tom Cockle. The images are shown in chronological order starting with a few Ausf. A and B vehicles right through to the Ausf.Ms and Ns in all

theatres of action throughout WWII. As the period photos are from various sources the image quality varies but the majority we've not seen published previously which is usually a priority to most modellers seeking reference and inspiration with everything on show from factory fresh tanks to KO'd wrecks. Our thanks to Panzerwrecks for our sample copies.

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Forgotten Archives 2 Darren Neely Published by Panzerwrecks Hardback format, 240 pages ISBN 9781908032157 www.panzerwrecks.com This is one of those books (as was Volume 1) which captivates you from the first cursory 'thumb-through', it's hard to put down! The author has followed leads and knowledge gained from the previous volume and with help from Signal Corps veterans and their families, this superb collection of previously unseen images can now be shared. The first thing that strikes you is the image quality, these photographs are taken by professionals with professional equipment and the large format, landscape format allows them to be seen at their best. The chapters are split into

Nuts & Bolts Vol.38 Jagdpanzer IV Part 2L-70 (Sd.Kfz 162/1) Joachim Baschin and Martin Block Published by Nuts & Bolts Softback format, 209 pages, English and German text www.nuts-bolts.de

the individual photographer's work covering the American advance post D-Day in the ETO featuring both their own vehicles and armour and German battlefield vehicle casualties. A great deal of care has gone into the photo captions which must have been difficult considering many images are from original film reel and not prints. To round-off this visual feast are a selection of colour illustrations by Felipe Rodna based on the photographs, highly recommended to any WWII modeller or armour enthusiast.

If you're a serious German armour modeller, Nuts & Bolts are familiar bi-words for reliable and indepth reference. This thirty eighth volume features the L/70 gunned Jagdpanzer built by Vomag and Alkett following on from the previous volume on the short barrel tank hunters. The history and technical development is followed by the structure and history of the anti-tank units and a collection of period images with an excellent section of images in particular on the 'A' version with the tall superstructure, with less than three

hundred made these images must be considered rare N&B's drawings and plans have always had great respect for their accuracy, these coupled with the extensive walk-around section of several museum preserved vehicles and removed components really does give the modeller a serious one-stop reference. The usual excellent colour plates complete this volume which is sure to be another 'must have' to add to the German armour modellers' library. Highly recommended reference as always.

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Takom 1:35 Tiran 4 Building on their series of T-54 and T-55s is the Tiran 4 version of the IDF just released from Takom. These captured vehicles (around three-hundred in total) make for interesting modelling topics with the IDFs series of modifications and upgrades. This kit is based on Takom’s T-54 with extra parts for the stowage, mudguards, loader’s hatch and a choice of early or late main guns. The box is brimming with grey sprues accompanied by a small photoetch fret, clear parts, metal tow cable and quality instruction booklet. The ’Starfish’ wheels have the correct differences for the foremost ones and separate tyres (tyre rib detail is a little pronounced but easily sanded) and the track links are

provided de-sprued with only tiny easily removed pin marks. The multi part upper hull is nicely done with photoetched mesh for the engine deck, photoetched mudguard supports are also used and there’s some excellent fine detail across all of the fender fittings especially the fuel tanks. The turret looks great with all of the extra IDF stowage and defence weapons. Along with IDF colours there’s an option to finish the kit in the SLA blue-grey which does look rather good! Not an overly-complex kit to build a detailed Tiran 4 from the box, with Miniart releasing a full interior Tiran 4 and Dragon releasing several Magachs, now is a good time for IDF modellers to plan a few projects.

Takom 1:35 M47/G Patton

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For some time now the vintage Italeri kit has been the basis of many M47 projects (regarded as one of their better armour kits) but here's Takom with an all-new offering. Boxed as a 2in1 kit it's pushing it a little as the 'G' German version has little more than smoke candles and a few different turret fittings to distinguish it apart. That said, the modelling possibilities are almost endless as the U.S declared the M47 obsolete on the arrival of the M48 in the late 1950s and shipped the M47 all over the world as part of the Military Aid Program with it seeing combat in service with countries including Croatia, Iran, Jordan and Pakistan. Lifting the lid with some very nicely done box-art we have Takom's regular grey sprues all individually bagged. The lower hull is a really nicely moulded piece with all suspension mounts in place and well detailed. Wheels look well rendered but with the tyres on the outer

rim moulded separately we're in for some tedious clean-up with twelve sprue gates total per wheel, this unfortunately carries across to the link and length tracks with a single link having five attachment points and ejector pins to clean up. The upper hull looks very nice indeed with a subtle cast texture and some sharp moulding on the rear deck which is covered in slatted panels; in reality these are open into the engine bay but some careful paint tricks would fool the viewer. Separate mudguards are good for those wanting to add damage and the tools and stowage bins have nice finesse. Turret detail is excellent and a good choice of mantlets and muzzle brakes are included. Colour profiles are offered on the excellent instruction booklet for six diverse marking options. Great to see a modern tooling of the M47 which is sure to be popular.

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VALENTINE

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I must admit, when I heard Tamiya were releasing a 1:35 scale Valentine I was less than star-struck over the subject. l already had a couple of Valentine kits by other manufacturers in my stash so I figured that was enough for me, but… as they say, “timing is everything.”

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The Valentine’s release date was just prior to an annual event sponsored by Tamiya America at the Long Beach Grand Prix. I’m good friends with the owner of Brookhurst Hobbies (the largest hobby shop in Southern California) who has a sales booth within the larger Tamiya America booth at the Consumer Event Center, adjacent to the annual Indy Car race track.

Eureka XXL tow cables, some stowage and a little wiring are the only diversions from a true out of the box build.

For years now, myself and some of my

kit built! I was very impressed with the

to be painted. The stowage came from a

friends have been asked to demonstrate

engineering and fit of this new kit. Almost

few sources; the large tarp by Model

model building to all the people attending

all the relevant details that you would

Point, the smaller tarps and the box of

the race as they were walking by. As it’s

want are provided in this little beauty of a

potatoes are by Value Gear and the fuel

usually a day filled with building plastic

model. Later that night looking at the

cans, the bucket, teapot and pan are by

models and surrounded by sunshine and

Valentine, I decided to take a few hours

Tasca. Finally, the tow cables are from

fast cars, its an offer you can’t turn down!

that weekend and finish it off. Other than

Eureka XXL. A few other bits were added

A couple of days earlier, a test shot of the

the very prominent conduit that Is

from the spares box but generally, I felt

new Valentine kit was available to build so

externally mounted for the headlamps,

that was enough to help me tell an

I thought, why not give it a go? The day

this kit wasn’t missing anything. I decided

interesting story. Although I never

came, I showed up at the booth and

to do a little scratch building with some

intended to work on this model past the

started building the kit, even though I had

lead wire and Evergreen rod to represent

demonstration day, it became clear that I

no real intention of finishing this model.

the wiring and at that point, the model

now had my unexpected Valentine!

By the day’s end, I almost had the entire

was ready for stowage to be added and

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The link and length tracks certainly help speed-up construction and have good detail.

Painting for me is very much a shoot-from-

Militaria that I thought would make a very

I primer my models with Tamiya Grey

the-hip procedure. I find an image or a

nice model. It was a Valentine Mk.IV from

Primer and then do a quick black pre-

colour profile that catches my eye and just

the 41st RTR 24th Armoured Brigade 8th

shading and shadowing of all the

go for it. I tend to mix my colours to the

Armoured Division. I did some research

appropriate nooks and crannies of the

best of my understanding of the actual

and realized painting it wouldn’t be a

model. Once that’s done I start considering

colour to make what I think might be

problem but there were no markings out

what colours I’d like to use on the model. I

appropriate for the scale for the subject

there for this particular tank or it’s unit. It

paint almost exclusively with Tamiya paints

model, in this case, 1:35. I know there’s a

was going to require some cobbling

and lacquer thinner. For the Valentine, I

lot of guys out there that prefer the idea of

together of bits and pieces of decals from

started by painting the stowage a little bit

precision measurements of paint and the

other sources as well as some hand

at a time while masking one element in

exact colours but quite honestly, I attempt

painting of markings. I decided not to let

turn on different stowage items with Silly

to take a more artistic approach and come

that stop me so I pressed forward with

Putty. You can purchase Silly Putty in

up with something that is a fair

painting the camo scheme that was so

almost any toy store and I found it makes a

representation of the tank I’m trying to

engaging to me.

fabulously pliable mask leaving no residue

build while still creating something that is a

and at a very low cost. I have found that

bit on the eye-catching side. For the

you can use it over and over again and it

Valentine, I found a colour profile in the

does not lose its ability to adhere to the

Tank Power 331 book by Wydawnictwo

model.

I try to keep in mind the actual colours of the items that I’m representing but I also want to vary the tones as I did on the fuel cans so that once it is surrounded by the green camouflage colours it still stands out and helps to move the viewer’s eye around the vehicle. For me, this creates visual interest and quite honestly is just more fun paint this way. 61

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Crayola ‘Silly Putty’ is widely available from toy stores in the USA but also available in the UK and the rest of Europe from many craft suppliers.

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Once the stowage had been painted and

wheels were hand brushed with Vallejo

green paint was reapplied to create the

masked, I free-handed the darker green

Dark German Gray, there was perfect

effect of a flaking edge to the camouflage.

camo shapes with the upper surfaces paler

separation between the track link colour

All in all, I was very happy with the effect.

where the light would reflect. I mixed

and the green colours for the road wheels.

It’s a really great product and very easy to

lighter shades of the dark green while

It’s at this point that I started picking all the

use. Now that the model was generally

adding different tones of browns, tans and

details out with various colours of Vallejo

painted, it was time to tackle the markings.

yellow to vary the colour in these areas.

acrylics to represent the rope and tie down

I purchased a few sheets of Archer

Once I was happy with the way things were

straps, the various tones of the potatoes

transfers that allowed me to spell out the

looking, I once again covered these areas

and other details on the vehicle and its

word Brooklyn on the bow plate and put

with Silly Putty. Next I basically repeated

stowage. One of the last things I did was to

the red squares on the sides of the turret.

the same process only with lighter shades

add a little rust to the muffler and cover. I

The “GO” marking is also an Archer item

of green to create the lighter camo shade.

thought this would give a little bit of

but I had to apply thin strips of yellow decal

At this point, everything on the model is

character beyond just the stowage. To do

to represent the markings on my

coloured with these two shades of green.

this, I airbrushed various tones of rust and

reference. The remaining markings both on

Once I removed the silly putty, I was pretty

orange on the muffler and cover and then

the bow plate and the red 6 on the turret

pleased with the overall tonality. The last

tried for the first time, Wilder Red Masking

sides are hand painted. Once the markings

feature that had to be addressed where

Fluid to create the edges of the peeling

were finished I coated the entire model

the tracks. As I was going to hand paint

paint. I had seen The Editor use this

with Testers Dullcote to give a nice even

rubber on the road wheels, I simply

masking fluid on his Meng P-51 to good

finish and to seal the model for the

created a mix of dark greyish-rust paint

effect and I wanted to give it a shot. The

weathering process.

and airbrushed it over the visible track

masking fluid was sponged over the

areas. Once the rubber on the road

orange and rust tones and then more

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I freely admit that I am not a Historian and

comfortable with the results using Winsor

homestretch. Some of the smaller details

with what little research I could do on this

Newton and Grumbacher oil paints thinned

were pulled out at this point such as the

tank I found it was located in the UK in

with Turpentine. Various colours were

rims on the road wheels and the edges of

1942 but as I kept digging into my

dotted over small areas of the tank at one

the track links using Rub-n-Buff silver. This

research on the unit, I believe it was later

time and then thinned out with a broad

was then toned down with the wash of Burt

transferred to North Africa. My assumption

brush covered in Turpentine. This creates

Umber oil paint. This approach isn’t

is that the tank would be repainted with the

subtle shifts of tone adding interest to the

appropriate for every model but in this

appropriate camouflage but to be honest I

surfaces. Pin washes were used around

case, I felt it added enough contrast to

don’t know for sure. That said, I used a

the details with a mix of Burnt Umber and

bring out the details that I wanted to show.

little creative liberty and along with

Moss Green oil paint that worked well with

Little things like the periscope lenses were

European tones of dirt and grime, I also

both the camouflage colours and the tones

now painted with dark gloss green and the

added a little warm sand tone to pull some

on the stowage elements. I then added

rear-view mirror was painted again with a

detail out and to once again help move

touches of Mig pigments here and there to

Molotow Liquid Chrome pen, (I painted it

your eye around the tank. When I weather

have a gritty effect but I did not go too

with the pen at the very beginning but my

my tanks I’m a bit ‘old school’. I realize

heavy as I felt the visual story was starting

masking tape didn't hold very well!) It’s at

there are many products out there now

to get a little complicated. Everything was

this point I step back and ask myself, did I

that give you the correct shade of filter for

once again covered overall with a coat of

miss anything?

this and that. For now, I still feel

Testers Dullcote and now I was in the

Custom markings were created by rub-down transfers and some careful masking.

With markings in place and the base colours complete it was time to start the weathering process.

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A few touch ups here and there and the only

than the building process of my models, but this was a very satisfying

it. I picked up a beautiful British tanker figure

and fun build of Tamiya’s new Valentine Mk.II/IV. I can’t tell you how

from Alpine Miniatures and gave him a quick

much I loved the engineering and the ease of assembly. There are

paint job to help show a sense of scale. The

many wonderful camouflage schemes out there that you could use on

figure and Valentine was then set on a base I

this model so there’s no reason you can’t find something which would

designed and was made out of Ash wood by

prove a quick and interesting project.

my dear friend Brian. I primered and painted it flat black and then I made a simple plaque designed in adobe illustrator and printed on my Canon printer.

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I have to admit, more often than not I enjoy the painting process more

thing I needed was a figure to stand next to

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