Issue 97 Cover.qxp_Issue 26 cover 06/10/2017 11:55 Page 1
97 NOV/DEC 2017 • £6.50 UK $15.99
Meng AFV Modeller
November / December 2017
www.mengafvmodeller.com
A N DY G U L D E N ’ S
PA N Z E R I V AU S F. J
THE END IS NEAR
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CONTENTS 2
In The Devil’s Hands Pete Usher’s dramatic Eastern Front scene.
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The End is Near Andy Gulden returns with another stunning 1:16 scene.
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Buffalo Soldier Manuel Reiner creates a unique 1:35 StuG III.
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Panzerkampfwagen IV Part 15 The Editor continues detailing Trumpeter’s 1:16 kit.
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Señor Patton Sean M. Lynch adds a Spanish twist to Takom’s new M47.
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Keeping Track New releases.
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Syrian Shilka We see how Hong Model’s Shilka shapes up.
Meng AFV Modeller is published Bimonthly by AFV Modeller ltd Old Stables East Moor Stannington Northumberland NE61 6ES Tel: 01670 823648 Fax: 01670 820274 Editor and Designer: David Parker email:
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[email protected] Sales Director: Keith Smith email:
[email protected] Proof Reading: Jim Chandler ISSN 2059-4305
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In The
Devil’s 2
Hands
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1:35
P E T E U S H E R ’ S D R A M AT I C AW A R D - W I N N I N G V I G N E T T E
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Beast Killer ISU-152 was a Russian fixed turret fully enclosed assault gun also capable of serving as a tank-destroyer. The Russian army used the JSU until the 1970s. Reading the reference I had, I found out this vehicle received an interesting nickname ‘’The Beast Killer’ this was earned for its ability to knock out the heaviest of German tanks, many of which were named after animals, such as elephant, rhinoceros (Nashorn) Panther and of course Tiger! With this new tank causing massive
losses to German armour frustration grew around the JSU and they were seen as a real prize to knock out and the Germans could only dream of capturing the crew of one of these mighty beasts. I wanted to depict a scene of high emotion in a relatively small environment. The composition of the diorama was going to be critical to give a clear story and portray the feelings of the troops involved. The idea soon solidified in my mind of
German SS forces pulling frightened Russians out of a disabled JSU. The crew were clearly in a perilous situation. Using out the box figures was clearly out of the question, so I knew some converting and sculpting was going to be needed. I bought two Tamiya JSU-152 kits, one would be a dummy kit so the figures could be sculpted to fit perfectly.
C o m p o s e Yo u rs e lve s During the sculpting phase, I knew there would be a lot of manhandling of the kit plus putty and talcum powder used. These are all not great materials to have left around for a flawless airbrushed finish! The ‘disposable’ JSU was only basically assembled; if it didn’t interact with the figures or the level of the vehicle, I didn’t attach it.
The key to any diorama is composition. All the figures must interact, and a natural symmetry between them is essential to building a story. The figures in the diorama were based on those from Evolution and Dragon. The base figures received different degrees of conversion ranging from just newly sculpted arms to others needing almost completely new uniforms. All the new limbs were made from wire armatures covered in two layers of Magic Sculp. All figures were given new heads from the Hornet range. Some bald heads were needed for the right expression on the faces, so magic sculp was also used to create the disheveled hair of the tank crew. Once undercoated all the figures were painted with Vallejo acrylics. 4
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Dirty Thirty-three
After first using ‘the hairspray technique’ to achieve the basis of the worn whitewash I continued to add depth to the worn finish. Each panel was first lightly dampened with enamel thinner, then random spots of white Humbrol No 34 were applied.
Black brown LS09 oil paints from Wilder were heavily thinned and fed into the recesses to isolate the panel in a pin wash fashion. These paints are really nice to use and dry with a very matt finish.
I wanted the ‘beast killer’ to look like it had seen many months in the field, so an extremely worn look was planned. I have always had good results from Tamiya Acrylics so used them for the initial painting stages. I knew most of the original Russian green would be obscured and covered with the following techniques, but I still used a mild modulation effect to highlight areas towards the upper surfaces and picked out some raised points with a lighter green mixture. As I had two sets of decals from the two kits I could make the number 33, these were hand painted over the top and some artistic license was used to alter the shapes slightly to make them look more
The white spots were then gently dragged and blended into the panel; this gives a nice uneven white dimension.
After the washes were applied I was able to return with the white and add more intensity in selected areas, here the white still needs blending with thinner.
Dark Green LS15 with a little LS 16 faded green from the same range was added in small amounts around the edge of the panel this was then blended inward towards the centre of the panel. LS18 basic earth added to the centre of the panel gives a nice muted effect.
hand painted on by the crew. Once this stage was complete; several layers of cheap hairspray was applied to the entire kit. Tamiya white mixed with Tamiya Earth were sprayed in a patchy manner over the main body of the kit. On the sides of the tank, the whitewash was removed with a damp brush in the opposite direction to which the tank would have been travelling. To further erode the winter paint I used the edge of some fine point tweezers to make scratches in the thin paint while it was still soft. Flat surfaces were gently scrubbed to represent crew movement, most of the flat surfaces were almost taken back to the
original green in most parts. From here on in I changed my approach, I would normally work each weathering stage across the entire vehicle. Instead, I almost completed each panel individually before moving onto the next. After only a few panels I found I really enjoyed the panel by panel system. I also found that as I worked around the tank my techniques slightly changed and improved, I’m sure we get better with each kit we make. This technique almost made each panel like an individual model yet relating to the panel before and after it.
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Streaking Grime from the Mig range was used to age the scratches and the bullet strikes on the hull.
To create scuffs and scratches through to the original green factory finish, Vallejo black-green was used both with a fine brush and a small piece of torn sponge using a ‘dabbing’ action.
Base washes of brown tones and an oily black around the outlet formed the basis of the exhausts.
More pigments came into play with a heavy build up of earth around the lower hull. Various tones give the dry and wet effects.
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Heavier applications of pigments give a realistic ‘sooty’ finish.
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With the presence of round strikes on the front of the tank, I thought it might be a good idea to have the front lamp looking worse for wear with a smashed front glass cover. I needed a reflective mirror that sits in the back of the lamp. This is how I made it. Domestic tin foil shiny side down was pressed over the end of a rounded paint brush. Run a modelling knife a few millimeters down and around the top of the brush, then lift off the small foil dish shape. The foil dish is placed into the light housing and the light bulb and wires fitted can then be added. The hanging out bulb and wires were from my spares box.
Grounded
As the focal point of the scene is the figures groundwork was kept minimal. After forming a raised edging to contain the earth mixture I assembled the basic materials. Sculpt-a-mold, fine earth and sand, fine plant roots.
A base layer of sculpt-a-mold mixed with water and a little white glue can then be spread out over a styrene base.
The second layer of sculpt-a-mold was mixed with dark brown and black acrylics. Large tubes of paint can be bought from large hobby shops. This is a better option than using the smaller Model paints. The sculpt-a-mold can absorb a fair amount of paint before it reaches a nice ‘muddy’ consistency. This can be spread out over the white layer below.
Once the base was dry (48 hours) a layer of To create the correct ‘sit’ of the vehicle, I wrapped the kit in cling film and pushed it into the soft base material. The kit can thinned PVA glue was brushed over. Then dry plant pot earth was sprinkled over the area. then be removed after a few hours when the sculpt-a-mold has started to harden but by no means cured.
The kit tracks were used to recreate the track marks in the ground where the tank had been before grinding to a halt.
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In The
Devil’s
Hands
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ANDY GULDEN’S
WHEN Trumpeter announced a 1/16 scale Panzer IV H, I hoped a J model would soon follow. Only a few months later my wishes were granted and I immediately purchased one and cleared off the work bench to begin this journey. A battle weary tank, crew and infantry, surviving the last months of the war, was the perfect setting to place this iconic vehicle of World War II
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PA N Z E R I V A U S F. J
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The Kit
The Build
Trumpeter’s 1/16 scale tanks have been well received by the fans of the larger scale. They provide a nice option for an out of the box build or a solid base for a super detailed project. I have taken an approach somewhere in the middle. Without many after-market option for detailing, much of my improvements needed to be scratch built using good old modelling techniques. I knew the Schürzen needed some attention and a few details had to added or removed to make this a January 1945 production model. Trumpeter has seemed to give you a very late model, which only a handful were produced at the very end of the war. I will highlight the changes I made as I go along.
I stared the construction by basically following all the steps need to build the interior and close up the model before concentrating on the exterior. Knowing I was placing the model in a diorama, I did not put the same effort into correcting or detailing the interior as the editor of this magazine is doing! I was going for just enough character that could be seen from the various open hatches, omitting the engine completely, as it would not be seen. I built the interior per the instructions only adding Aber MG barrels. The radio received a few wires to make it look the part. When the construction was finished, everything was painted with the standard off white and red primer colours using various Tamiya acrylics and weathered it to
an appropriate level of use. Unfortunately, an ill-timed computer gremlin ran away with any pictures of the final product, so you’ll have to take my word for it! Once the hull and turret were closed up, I was able to concentrate on the exterior. Before I started the detail work, I textured the steel plates by bouncing a Dremel tool with a large grinding bit. Tamiya extra thin cement was brushed over the affect to smooth out the rough texture. Not quite satisfied with the result, Mr Surfacer 500 was stippled on with an old brush to bring it up to spec.
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ANDY GULDEN’S
PA N Z E R I V A U S F. J
Following the directions for the most part but adding details as I go, the rest of the construction went pretty well. The following areas received a little extra refinement • Aber fire extinguisher was added • Aber gun cleaning rods for the King Tiger were modified down to size • Aber tool clamps • Scratch built tool holders and stops from scrap photo etch frets • Replaced grab handles with appropriate sized brass rod • Aber Muzzle break for the main gun • Scratch built gun cleaning rod brackets from brass stock and Aber clamps • Nuts and bolts from Meng were used to detail the various Schürzen brackets • Various weld beads made from 2-part epoxy and shaped with a wet cocktail stick • Modified the jack block to the last configuration seen using a spring and chain strap • Removed one front fender and made the other workable with homemade hinges
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New woven mesh screen and brackets was a big improvement to the look of the shurtzen screens compared to the the original kit versions on the left.
To add a bit of interest two of the road wheels received some damage in the form of a fractured section and stripping one of the outer rubber sections. The driver’s side front fender was heated ever so slightly with a candle flame and the soft plastic was twisted and bent to show some battle damage. Some of the rivet detail needed to be replaced following these modifications. One area I knew I that need some attention was the Schürzen wire mesh screens on the hull. The Trumpeter effort in this area was less than ideal. They were under detailed, and very toy like.
With the help of the Panzer Track volume on the PZ IV, H and J models, I could, rather accurately, dimension the mesh wire size and spacing. I was lucky to find some #30 stainless steel mesh from an industrial supply warehouse that worked perfectly. I scaled up the Panzer Track drawing to 1/16 scale and went about building them with plastic strip and brass stock bent to the appropriate shapes. I was pretty satisfied with the results, as they were a big improvement over the kit parts. It was now off to the paint shop.
Painting Per my usual steps, I started with a good coat of Tamiya grey primer from the can and pre-shaded all the corners, panel joints and running gear with a mixture of Tamiya NATO Black and Flat Earth before applying the base coat. Knowing the weathering process was going to be rather extreme on this tank I opted for a rather bright combination of colours. The Dark yellow base was built up from various colours starting with Tamiya Khaki and building up of light coats of Dark Yellow, Dark Yellow and white
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and even some flat yellow plus a few drops of white in spots. Always being careful to keep the lightest colours on highest surfaces. Late war J’s seem to have a pretty constant, factory applied camouflage pattern. Armed with some good quality reference pictures I proceeded to lay down the camo colours the best I could. I mixed the green and brown using various Tamiya paints being mindful to keep them as light as possible without changing the tone value of each.
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Weathering My first step in the weathering process was to create a thick buildup of mud along the hull sides and running gear. A mixture of Celluclay, fine sand, white glue and earth toned acrylic paints were mixed up and liberally applied in logical locations were mud would collect. Once dry, many applications of thin washes using Tamiya Flat Earth, Flat Brown and NATO Black thinned with tap water were brushed on until a proper look was achieved. I decided to add a final layer of grit using the new AK Interactive “Dark Earth” Terrain. This added a nice scale top layer for further
treatments. AK washes and pigments finished up the streaking and overall grime of hull. Once a satisfied result was achieved, the same treatment was given to the road wheels and tracks. I won’t bore you with the repetitive nature of the rest of the weathering but the standard filters, chips, washes and pigments finished up the process. I decided to add some interest and I applied a different camo pattern and a scruffy white wash to one on the turret Schürzen plates. Detail painting of the tools and accessories completed the model.
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At this point it was time to modify the figures to fit the tank and start thinking about the base before the weathering went too far. This is also a good time to arrange and place all the external gear and accessories that will add some character. • Used Apoxy-Sculpt to make the various tarps. • Sourced spare track from a Remote Control manufacture. • Built and painted a fuel drum and Jerry cans from Classy Hobby. • Built up ground work with foam insulation and framed the sides with bass wood. • Contoured and smoothed out the ground work using plaster.
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Base A thick layer of the same mud mix used on the hull was built up on the foam base. While still wet, broken twigs, tree roots, small stones and a wire fence were pushed into the base. After letting this mess dry for an hour or so, the tank was placed in its final position, allowing it to sink just a bit into the ground work. The same color treatment as the tank’s mud was applied to the ground work, resulting in a nice continues finish.
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AK’s new 2-part resin water kit was used to build up a few locations of standing water. I followed the directions and built up the affect in thin layers, a few drops of Field Drab from Vallejo added a nice muddy look. “Green Stuff World” leaf punch provided a nice detail with scale leaves punched from dried leaves. Figures All 5 figures need a bit of work before painting could start. The standing tank commander is an Alpine offering that was converted from Wehrmacht to SS. The seated figures are from the outstanding but long out of production Tiger I set from S&T, sculpted buy John Rosengrant. They needed a bit of work to get them to fit on a Panzer IV, mostly by adding some
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bulk to the bottom of their jackets were they sat on the various surfaces. The grenadier standing on the ground is from Jeff Shiu and was a visibly larger than the others so a bit of his legs and boot were sanded off to get him close to the same size. As long as you don’t place near the others, it’s hard to tell the difference. One a good coat of primer was applied, the base was sprayed using various Tamiya greens and grays. Vallejo Model Color was then used for the highlight, shadows and accessories. Artist oils were used for all flesh tones. Some wire pins and two-part epoxy secured them to the various surfaces.
This was a fun overall project and I was pretty happy with the result. As trumpeter keeps bringing the larger scale vehicles, they’ll keep making their way onto my work bench.
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WHEN I stumbled across the excellent book “Sturmgeschützbrigade 191” by Bruno Bork I immediately fell in love with the subject. The units from the so called Büffel-Brigade (Buffalo brigade) modified their StuGs with a layer of additional steel welded to the hull and fender. Besides that the commander’s copula received a projectile deflector and all the empty spaces behind the field-applied armour were filled with concrete for further protection.
With all the modifications these vehicles almost looked like small Jagdpanthers and this unique look was my main motivation to create this model. Techniques like the hairspray technique offer us some very realistic effects, but I still struggle when it comes to painting soft materials like cloth and figures. When you reach a certain level of quality and knowledge it’s very hard to work outside your comfort zone. It’s too easy to just repeat what you are used to and so I wanted to challenge myself with lots of stowage and two crew figures. Maybe this build can inspire some of you to look out for unique subjects and also to challenge yourself while working on your weak spots. I swore a lot during process, smashed the model into pieces thanks to a small accident and repainted the figures two times, but in the end I learned a lot, gained more confidence and best of all, I finished a model with a strong emotional connection. Let me guide you through the project.
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M a n u e l R e i n h e r ’s Büffel-Brigade StuG III
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Using the nice StuG III G from Dragon I decided to scratch build the add-on armour using thin plastic card. After the application the weld seams were created using ProCreate putty. To structure the welds I used a round profile rod attached to a pine vice.
Nice resin casts from Legend were used as a base for the stowage. Additional items from different brands and tarps made from ProCreate filled the rest of the empty deck.
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After the welds dried I filled the empty space behind the amour with “concrete” using also Pro-create. The surface was textured with a wire brush. ProCreate is a two component putty, but I’m sure other brands will work with similar results.
To show the extra weight and tell the story of a veteran I lowered the suspension. As the Dragon kit has adjustable suspension arms that task was quite easy. Simply glue the first and last roadwheel in the desired position and once dry you can adjust all the other roadwheels to the right position.
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After a short bath in soapy water it was time to start the compressor. I didn’t use primer, instead I mixed a red/brown colour using Tamiya paints. To get a nice smooth surface I added FX-22 clear to the paint and sprayed it with my airbrush thinned with lacquer thinner. A quick misting of AK Satin varnish unified the surface.
The whole vehicle received a layer of hairspray which I decanted into a dropper style to spray it using my airbrush for greater control. The hairspray provides an ‘unstable’ base for further colours.
For the dark-yellow I used a mix of Mig 0011 & Mig 012 thinned with Vallejo airbrush thinner. I did a very subtle modulation to separate the structural details changing the mix between the two colours.
After that I used several old brushes and blades to carefully work the surface with warm water revealing the first layers of colour. I tried to stay as much in scale as possible.
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After the base chipping is done another layer of hairspray was applied. Now I mixed two camouflage colours using for the brown: Model Air 71.249 & Mig 014, and for the green: Mig 003 & Model Air 71.250. According to the book by Bruno Bork the vehicles arrived at the front in dark
For the markings I used home-made stencils. I chose a suitable font and printed the numbers on a piece of paper. After that I traced the numbers onto a piece of Tamiya masking tape and applied the mask to the model.
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yellow. To represent this, the camouflage was applied in a very random and patchy style. Once I was happy with the look I started the chipping treatment of the two camo colours.
For this model I started the weathering with a different approach. Instead of working my way through different steps I tried to include as many effects in a single work session limited to specific area of the vehicle. This way I was able to get an early idea about how the final model will look like, and also the process is more creative and flexible than following a strict order of steps. My preferred weathering tools are oil colours.
They are cheap, very flexible in use and because of their drying time you have very good control of your effects. I placed a range of colours on a piece of cardboard (to draw out excess oil) and started to place small amounts of colours to a specific section of the vehicle. Weathering like filters, washes, chips, first layers of dirt and rust effects were created in a single session.
To keep me motivated I switched tasks and worked on the worn, chipped wood which is part of the stowage. Small strips of wood were darkened with thinned acrylic colour and then the excellent Distress Paint from ‘Ranger’ was applied in an even coat. During the drying process the very realistic cracks appeared. The planks were painted individually and once assembled, the whole element received a treatment with oil colours.
For the tracks I used ‘Blacken-it’ for the first time. The application is quite easy and I really liked the result. An old toothbrush helped to work the agent into every corner. After a few minutes the tracks show a nice base for further weathering.
My goal was a vehicle operating in the autumn/spring time and therefore mud and dirt is an essential element. I wanted to test some of the new products available and started with TE08 Light Grey Earth from Wilder applied using an old brush.
In the end I switched back to good old pigments to create the muddy texture. Using various pigments applied dry I built up the mud layer. A few drops of thinner, applied with a pipette fixed everything in place. Although not durable still this method works best for me.
Ammo of Mig Heavy Mud was used to define the surface further. I speckled the paste to the lower sections of the model. Using white spirit as a thinner I also applied the mix to the road wheels. Although I really liked the effect on the roadwheels the lower hull didn’t satisfy me.
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With the initial weathering done I switched once again to oils and added streaks of rust and dirt. I simply painted some runs in suitable dark brown and rust colours. Then I blended the streaks in a vertical movement using an almost dry clean brush.
One big challenge for me was the stowage. I’ve never done it in this amount, and painting soft materials such as cloth is still something I find tricky. After a base coat with my Airbrush I painted each piece using thin layers of acrylics from Vallejo. After the painting it was weathered like the rest of the vehicle. The fuel barrel made out of zinc was painted using the very nice range of metal colours from Games Workshop. It was weathered using oils and some gloss varnish around the cap area.
Disaster strikes as I managed to knock the model from my workbench! After a cold beer and a nights sleep I tackled the repair work which required some retouching of paint damage after restoring some welds and cementing parts back in place.
As Büffel means ‘buffalo’ in German I added a slightly modified resin skull from Mantis. This detail helped to personalize the vehicle further.
To enhance the look of the mud areas I paid special attention to a wide variety of textures. I cut small pieces of hemp for the imitation of dried grass and fixed them using the mud colours from Mig.
Additionally paper leaves from Plusmodel and leaves cut with the punch sets from RPToolz were strategically placed to the model and fixed with super glue. After that they were blended in with the mud colors.
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The last important element I wanted to add were the crew figures. It has been seven years since I finished my last figures so it felt like starting from scratch again. The crew is from the ‘Tank’ range, I improved one of the heads using an excellent item from Alpine and added some further details with Magic Sculp. The crew was painted with acrylics from Ammo and Vallejo. I started the uniforms by airbrushing a light and dark version of the base colour using my airbrush. Then I painted the green and brown patches using reference images. The patches were highlighted and all the details outlined with a dark brown color. Once I was happy I added thin rainmarks using a brown colour. Using a high quality brush and carefully diluted paint is a must for tasks like this.
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Panzerkampfwagen David Parker builds Trumpeter’s 1:16 kit This installment involves a little jumping about between different areas as the time to start thinking about paint approached. I needed to complete parts of the electrical system that are mounted on the engine bulkhead and with several variations for the position of these parts, quite a bit of research was needed before I was happy to proceed. Next it was back into the engine bay looking at heat shields to protect various components from
Part Fifteen
the heat of the exhaust manifolds. This marked the end of the construction phase of the engine bay at least and considering the future progress of the project it seemed like an appropriate time to think about some painting. To minimise the need for masking it seemed to be sensible to pre-paint the separate inner floor panel and whilst I had the airbrush running to also paint some of the other completed internal parts.
The battery starting change over switch is mounted on the firewall. It appears that the exact position for this and the master switch differs depending on the air filter choice and possibly manufacturing factory. The basic shape was constructed from squares of plastic.
To form the connection points for the cables I simply crimped the ends of the cables using a pair of pliers.
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I set about adding detail to the change over switch with ABER photoetched screw heads and plastic rod for the various connections. The connection points are covered with a protective plate which I made from brass sheet and self-adhesive aluminum foil for the wiring diagram placard mounted on it.
As the postion of the switch varies so does the location of the electrical cables. I used 1.5mm lead wire to make the cable and using 5 minute epoxy glue to firmly secure it in position. As I was not planning to detail the battery connection below the floor this crude fixing was ideal. At this stage I was unaware that my change over switch was too wide and would need to be corrected.
The switch is test fitted to finalise the position of the cables.
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And the cover test fitted too. At this stage I began to realise that I would need to shorten the width of my switch to bring it into scale, something that is always a danger when you are estimating sizes.
The revised switch is considerably narrower and closer in width to the heater vent on the firewall.
Another component of the tank’s electrical system is the master switch which is also a part who’s position varied. Evidence for the Ausf.H suggests that it is mounted to the side of the air intake on a bracket.
The master switch is constructed from plastic with some spare photoetched fret used to construct the bracket.
Back to the engine bay now where I constructed this heat shield for the exhaust pipe from brass sheet. These thin sheet metal parts don’t usually survive and initially I thought it was mounted on the rear wall with this bracket.
This was not correct so the bracket was adapted to attach to the engine it what seemed like a logical way, a certain amount of guesswork being needed.
The rear wall bracket was in fact to mount another heat shield which protected the electrical boxes mounted in the corner of the hull.
The shield was again constructed from brass sheet because it was easy to bend to shape and yet strong once the mounting bracket is soldered in place.
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I needed to make a new universal joint for the engine flywheel because the kit part really did not look correct or suitable to adapt so I had to start from scratch. 1 Starting with a big section of square plastic rod I drilled out the centre hole and I used a burr in a motor toll to cut away the curve at the base. 2 The shape was refined and the mouth of the joint cut open. 3 The
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3
sides of the plastic were trimmed away to the correct size. 4 The rounded shape was then created using sponge sanding pads. 5 Discs of plastic were added where the central bar fits and this bar was salvaged from the kit part. The cast texture was added using a coat of Mr Surfacer. 6 The joint was trimmed off the plastic rod and mounted on a disc.
6
I modified the other connector on the drive shaft by rounding the edges and adding the pair of plastic discs. Whilst not entirely accurate it is likely to be hidden from view on the finished model.
Another last minute job in the engine bay was the wiring frame to carry the electrical output cables from the auxiliary generator, made from strip with squares of plastic for the cable clamp points.
Some final missing details on the engine were the heat shields which protect components from the heat of the exhaust manifold. This shield for the oil tank was formed from some aluminium foil with three ribs embossed lengthways. Two plastic card supports were used to mount it at an angle onto the oil tank.
The dynamo also has its own shield with a slot to accommodate the tensioner. The shield is bolted onto the dynamo mounting straps by two bolts. In order to get this to fit I had to remove the electrical outlet socket from the dynamo so that it could be repositioned below the shield.
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Left The new outlet socket was constructed from plastic rod and fitted to the dynamo with a pre-drilled hole in the outlet for it to be wired up at a later stage. Below Finally it seemed an appropriate time to consider fixing the inner hull in place and before doing so, to get some paint applied to the interior while the parts were still separate. I began by applying a primer of Mr Oxide Red Surfacer 1000 to the areas that had yet to be primed like the firewall and engine bay walls. The separate inner floor made this easy and I only had to mask the colour split where the firewall is positioned. Although this gives a good colour I then applied Vallejo Cavalry red over the primer as this would permit me to easily brush paint any parts or repair the paintwork with a perfect match. For the interior Ivory I used Lifecolour UA232 Elfenbein which I think best replicates the real thing. Both colours were sealed with a coat of Satin varnish.
Dry fitting the main parts of the engine bay. Happily all the pin marks and filled holes on the rear plate are now invisible.
The engine was given an overall coat of Gunze RLM66 during which I managed to drop it causing severe damage to the oil cooler. It could have been so much worse and I was able to repair the damaged parts and finish the painting of the engine.
Constant handling of the firewall over the months had caused some damage which needed to be repaired. In the course of this I removed the access doors and added the insulating strips to the lips of the doors. Flattened lead wire was used as it was easy to shape around the corners.
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With the repairs made and the doors refitted the crew side of the firewall was given a coat of Lifecolor Elfenbein.
With painting underway it made sense to paint other parts of the interior that were complete like the transmission which was painted in Gunze RLM 75
The internal floor could now be glued in place and I began to add the internal welds which form the hull. Rolled lengths of Magic Sculp were positioned in the hull.
I used my own tool made from brass tube to texture the putty and the excess was cleaned away.
The welds were then brushed over with a wet brush to blur and soften the pattern to give this finished effect. Right Once the putty has dried I brush painted a coat of Mr Finishing Surfacer 1500 Grey over the welds. This seals any gaps and enhances the soft effect of the pattern.
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Keeping the batch painting going I dealt with the battery start switch, primer pump and fuel valve, using a base coat of Alclad. the placards on the fuel valve were brush painted.
The Battery start switch could now be installed on the firewall and the cables clamped in place with some plastic bolts courtesy of the RP Toolz Hex Punch and Die. Once these were painted the protective cover could be fitted.
A small detail that I almost overlooked were the internal bracings for the suspension bump stops inside the hull. These are hidden by the fuel tanks in the centre of the hull but are visible in the engine bay and in the bow.
The restricted access to the base of the bulkhead made adding welds using putty difficult so I used sections of Slater’s plastic rod in these area which were then soaked with liquid cement to create a weld texture.
To begin fitting out the engine bay I started to add the electrical cables for the generator. These were made from a woven cable supplied as tow rope in Tamiya’s 1:48 tank kits. The colour coding rings were made using Albion Alloys aluminium tube which was cut open and crimped around the cables.
The firewall was given a subtle wash prior to being installed in the hull while it was still easy to access all the details.
The new welds were then painted to match the rest of the engine bay and the floor was weathered using a mix of splatters and puddled oil. The initial oil spatters were made with Lifecolour oil and the bigger puddles and drips were applied using Wilder Old Grease.
The cables were painted using Vallejo dull aluminium and the rings painted to match the colours used in the original vehicle. Cable clamps were added using strips of aluminium foil with photoetched bolts.
The project continues in the next Issue
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The M47 was the result of the U.S.
included fire control upgrades as well as
I have known for a while that I wanted to
needing a new line of tanks early in the
the diesel engine from the M60. The most
make a Spanish M47 with the 105mm
1950’s as the war in Korea required many
visible aspect of this upgrade is the new
gun. I like the idea of a tank that was built
of the M26 and M46 tanks that would
engine deck for the diesel engine. Some
in the early 1950’s being upgraded as far
have been used in other theatres of
nations continued to upgrade the M47 to
as it could go and keeping pace with the
operation. The hope was to have
give similar performance of the M60 and
M60 line. I chose the Spanish version
developed the T42 for service, but as the
fitted a 105mm main gun. The Spanish
since they took it past the development
need for tanks was greater than the time
Army chose to upgrade some of their
stage and actually fielded the vehicle.
to develop a new tank, the turret for the
M47’s with the Rheinmetall 105-30
T42 was mated with the M46 hull. Over
smoothbore main gun to create the
Once I received the Takom M47 E/M I
8500 M47’s were produced between 1951
M47E2. Many nations also eliminated the
began construction and quickly
and 1953. The M47 never saw combat
assistant driver and coax machine gun
assembled most of the hull and
service in Korea and was soon replaced in
and used that space for a crew heater
suspension. While I was working on the
U.S. inventories by the M48. The M47’s
and extra ammunition stowage.
hull, I contacted Javier Villarroya via his
were then exported to many nations
While the M47 has been used for years
email
[email protected] (I don’t
around the world. Though it was short
with many nations and conflicts, modellers
believe he has a website for his products).
lived in the U.S., the M47 served those
have only had the veteran Italeri M47 kit to
Javier is from Spain and makes resin
nations it was exported to for many years
work with which dates back to the 1970’s.
conversions and vehicles of Spanish
and in numerous conflicts, with some
It has stood the test of time quite well,
subjects. Of particular interest to me was
countries still using them or variants of
however, it only offers the standard M47
the conversion of the M47E2 for the old
them today.
variant and needed work and donor kits to
Italeri kit and the 105mm gun. The Rh 105
change it to something along the lines of
is similar but slightly different in
Since the M47 had such a long service life
a version with a diesel engine M47, I
appearance to the standard L7/M68
around the world, many would be
myself have a few Italeri M47’s and donor
105mm. As it turns out he has updated
upgraded to keep pace with evolving
kits in storage. Recently Takom began
his conversion to cover the changes
technologies. A common upgrade was the
releasing an updated M47 line, thereby
needed for the Takom kit.
M(odern) or E(urope) upgrade. This
negating the need to build a conversion.
One of the items that Javier pointed out to
other than the first and second road wheel
and outer distance between the housings
me was that the Spanish M47 E1 and E2s
should be equidistant from each other.
of the middle torsion bars. These
moved the last road wheel forward versus
I used a razor saw removed from its
measurements were locked into the
backward as the Takom kit has done. The
handle to careful cut the last torsion bar
caliper and this was used to draw a line
last road wheel was moved during the
housing from the hull. The razor saw
on the hull based on the distance from the
diesel engine conversion to make room
provided and nice thin cut. This was
next to last housing. A ruler was used to
for the oil pan of the engine. M47’s
made somewhat difficult by the fact that I
draw a line on the along the bases of the
converted in the U.S. had the road wheel
had already attached the lower hull parts.
housing. These lines formed a box for me
moved back, where as those converted
The removal of the housing was not
to reattach my housing and the hole left
in Spain and perhaps elsewhere in Europe
flawless and did require some sanding to
from the removal of the housing was filled
moved the wheel forward. In short, check
smooth the surface for the eventual
in. The bump stop and the shock absorber
your photo references carefully. For the
reattachment of the housing.
were moved forward also, all of these
Spanish M47E variants all the road wheels
A caliper was used to measure the inner
parts need to be moved forward 3mm.
This shows the road wheels in position as the Takom kit provides. Note the gap between the last two road wheels. While this positioning is correct for the M47M’s, the rear wheel may need to be moved forward if building a M47E.
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Here the last road wheel has been moved forward to be equidistant with the other wheels with the only large gap being between the first and second road wheel. This is the common arrangement seen on M47E’s in service with the Spanish Army.
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The movement of the last road wheel had the unfortunate knock-on effect of coming up two track links short (one link on each side, though I moved both to one side. I positioned this shortfall under the front fender to help reduce the visibility of any solution I created.
Plastic strips were cut to the proper length for each track pad and laminated to create replacement track pads and to create new tread. Spare connectors were used to join the pads. The tracks and lower hull were primed black while exposed prior to the addition of the upper hull parts. While the replacement track pads are not perfect, they are hard to find when primed. Once the mud guards are installed the replacements will not be noticeable at all!
It has been observed that there is a difference in the bulge for the bow machine gun between the Takom and Italeri kits. Photographic evidence shows that both are correct and this is simply a difference in the factory a particular vehicle was manufactured.
It appears that the Spanish M47E2’s used the armoured air filter boxes. The Takom kit provides the unarmored version. I had the armoured housing as spares from an AFV Club M60A2 kit and decided to use that with the remaining parts coming from the Takom kit. Javier does provide resin replacments in his update set but I always prefer to bond plastic to plastic when possible.
The model prior to painting. I had primed the suspension and lower hull as mentioned already. At this point I hadn’t decided if I would use the M2 machine gun.
The infantry phone box and gun cradle provided by Takom are incorrect for a M47E2. The upgrade set from Javier provides the correct version. Supports were added for the phone box.
Another feature of the Spanish M47E2 is the use of German style smoke grenade launchers. Takom’s other version of the M47 provide parts for a German M47. Fortunately these parts are on the sprues of the M47 E/M kit. Some chain and the nipple for the launcher covers was added. The smoke launchers are in the way of the lower rails on both sides of the turret, which requires both rails to be shortened.
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The distinctive feature of the Spanish M47E2 is the Rh105-30 gun. While it is similar to the L7 series, it is different enough that the builder will have to scratch build one, modify a L7 barrel or buy one. The only aftermarket one that I am aware of is from Javier Villarroya. The barrel that he produces is designed to be attached to the mantlet without a cover. Most photos show the M47E2 with the mantlet cover. I modified the kit provided cover along with a resin portion from DEF Models and some putty to attach the barrel. It may have been better to have made the entire cover from putty, but my sculpting skills are not particularly good.
Trying to decide what is the correct colour for the Spanish vehicles proved to be a bit challenging. Photos ranged from a brown finish to green. However, most show a brown tone to them. My first attempt was to use a mix of Tamiya Dark Green with some Dark Green 2 and JA green. Once this had dried I checked the reference photos and realized this was just too green and had no discernible brown tone to it. Unhappy with my first attempt at matching the colour, I trialed several alternatives. I was finally satisfied with a mix of Tamiya Khaki and NATO Black in a ratio of around 20:5. I noticed that depending on lighting and temperature adjustments to processing of images the colour easily shifts
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from more green to more brown. After the initial painting was done I painted various highlights and features in different shades to start adding variation and visual interest to the model. A gloss coat was applied and decals added. I then used oil paints to enhance the shadow areas and borders of the model. I first applied the oil. After drying for several minutes the excess oil paint was removed the remainder blended in with the finish.
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Once the oils had dried for a few days I applied another coat of gloss. A blackbrown pin wash was applied to all the deepest recesses. Some chipping was added with thinned Vallejo black grey. Lights and optics were first painted silver and lear acrylics (blue and red) were then painted as appropriate. Tracks and remaining details were brush painted. A coat of Vallejo matt varnish was then applied and graphite pencil was used on some of the edges to give a worn metallic feel. Rust coloured washes were applied to the crew heater exhaust and around some of the handles.
I have been using the ‘chipping’ method to create mud spattering and streaking lately. I like the effects that this technique creates and the reliability of it. I begin by applying Vallejo chipping fluid to areas of interest, in this case the hull sides, front and rear as well as the very forward upper areas of the hull. After this has dried for about a half an hour a thinned dirt coat of Tamiya Buff was applied. Once dry, a brush dampened with warm water was used to remove the excess of the colour. On vertical surfaces this was drawn down to create streaks. On vertical surfaces and in tight areas such as corners and road wheels a stippling motion with the brush was used to create a spattered and uneven look to the dirt accumulation. I wanted to add dust and dirt accumulation to the rest of the vehicle, but not in as heavy of accumulation as the lower portions of the
hull. I turned to enamels, in particular I used Wilder Brown Mud Effect to create the next amount of accumulation. I would paint random blotches onto the surfaces. After drying, a brush dampened with paint thinner was used to ‘push’ the excess paint away and distribute the remainder over the surface. The turret received the same treatment with the addition of rain streaks. The tracks were first dry brushed with Tamiya Flat Earth paint. Mud coloured pigments were then rubbed on to create the dirt effect. The moisture stains around the tow pintles was created by mixing pigment with fluid effects and painting the mixture on carefully following reference. The addition of some pigments competed work on the M47E2.
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It was enjoyable to build the penultimate M47. The unexpected challenges of having to update the suspension and build extra track links made the build even more enjoyable and unique. The Takom kit itself is a pleasure to build and even though adaptions were needed, it was a great starting point for a M47 E series versus the option of overhauling the veteran Italeri offering.
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KEEPING TRACK
new releases
MTVR, American Special No.3031 Carl Schulze Published by Tankograd Soft back format, 64 pages, English and German text www.bookworldws.co.uk Already available from Trumpeter and a new release on the cards this is a great time to stock-up on reference of the USMC’s workhorse in it’s numerous guises. Tankograd’s popular visual format is followed and there’s some excellent shots of the truck at work with a great selection of colour schemes operating
Leopard 2A6 Development, description, technology Ralph Zwilling Published by Tankograd Soft back format, 80 pages, English and German text www.bookworldws.co.uk
Leopard 2A6 In action and variants 46
Ralph Zwilling Published by Tankograd Soft back format, 56 pages, English and German text www.bookworldws.co.uk
throughout the World. The book covers a huge range of MTVR versions with tipper trucks, cargo, armoured recce, tractor and extended bed amongst others. great modelling inspiration and reference especially for colour schemes and weathering.
No. 5070 in Tankograd’s series takes a look at the technical aspects of the Leopard 2A6 and starts by detailing the series of upgrade programs and then chapters broken into subject areas such as electrical system, heating system, power pack… pretty much everything inside and out. Alongside the detailed text is an excellent selection of close-
up and walk-around style photographs and factory-style diagrams providing the modeller with invaluable reference in an easily accessed format. Images of disassembled hulls, turrets removed and empty engine bays are all here making this an inexpensive and essential read for Leopard modellers.
An ideal companion to 5070 is 5071 with some fantastic action shots of the big cat and great modelling subjects with additional exercise camouflage and markings. Further reference is provided with 1:35 detailed plan drawings and a very easily understood information on the
differences between the ‘M’ and ‘M+’ and also what the future developments have in store. Crew functions and workstations also feature providing another highly informative piece of Leopard literature.
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Panzerkampftagen IV in combat Markus Zöllner Published by Tankograd Soft back format, 80 pages, English and German text www.bookworldws.co.uk
The first book of a batch of re-prints from Tankograd which tie-in nicely with some recent kit releases (post-war British subjects such as Chieftain and ’432), and being quite partial to anything Panzer IV related this collection of ‘in the field images’ of the Wehrmacht’s workhorse is very much worth a look if you missed it first time around. The full spectrum from A to J is covered with some very well chosen images (many unfamiliar) with detailed captions. Our thanks to Bookworld for our Tankograd samples.
Another set of re-prints which will be welcome to British post-war enthusiasts with the ‘Early Years’ covering vehicles from 1945 to 1979 and the ‘Final Years’ dealing with 1980 to 1994. A great selection of images and vehicles are covered in each book with soft-skins, armour and engineering vehicles Peter Blume Andreas Kirchhoff with detailed captions and descriptions of BAOR organisation and Published by Tankograd Published by Tankograd deployment over the years. Another popular modelling subject is vehicles in Soft back format, 64 pages, Soft back format, 64 pages, the fetching ‘Berlin’ urban camo scheme, everything you might need to know English and German text English and German text is covered within with a great selection of photographs and plans of the www.bookworldws.co.uk www.bookworldws.co.uk colour schemes. All three of these re-releases are recommended to any fans of British vehicles of the period.
BAOR The early years/ The Late Years
Eduard
British Infantry Brigade, Berlin
The guys at Eduard often take a break from their aircraft upgrades and produce some very nice AFV subjects. A couple of photoetch sets have been released to suit kits which we’ve featured recently.
36358 is for the IBG Scammell Pioneer SV2S with lots of useful fine detail as has set 36359 for Tamiya’s new Valentine which also includes full mudguards / fenders.
AMMO of Mig A couple of diorama products from Ammo in giant 250ml tubs; 2204 is an acrylic water effect ‘Slow River Water’ and 2105 acrylic mud ‘Muddy Ground’. The water has a green cast to it and can be poured straight from the tub, the consistency is such that ripples could be formed as it dries although it is designed to self-level. We found this to dry pretty quickly with a high gloss sheen and could see it working well built in thin(ish) layers. One of a range of earth textures is this ‘Muddy Ground’ mix which, as you can see, represents heavy wet mud very well with various depths of textures and a convincing sheen. Very convenient and economical products with pleasing results, find the full range at www.migjimenez.com
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Krupp Protze and variants Published by SABOT Chris Mrosko, Brett Avants, Pearce Browning Softback format 46 pages ISBN 9781947552005 www.sabotpub.com
Einheitsdiesel Published by SABOT Chris Mrosko, Brett Avants, Pearce Browning Softback format 46 pages ISBN 9781947552012 www.sabotpub.com
A new line from SABOT here with No.1 in their ‘Foto File’ which looks as if it will evolve into monographs of unpublished images providing some nice reference. The Krupp Protze with it’s distinctive appearance and big 4 cylinder boxer engine must have been considered well ahead of it’s time and has been a popular modelling subject (Bronco in fact ready to release a series of new kits). The quality of the images is varied but all included because of obvious interest and rarity covering three versions; standard troop transporter, 37mm PaK transport and searchlight transport unit. Some great images provide modelling inspiration and probably difficult due to the original source, but it would have been nice to have at least some of the photos captioned.
Straight into number 2 ‘Foto File’ with a look at the ‘Standard Diesel’ German lorry which was produced by nine companies with production beginning in 1934 only the three axle version (from a 2,3 and 4 axle design) seeing production of over 14,000 units and serving long into WWII after production stopped in 1940. As the Krupp Protze images, quality varies and they’re void of any captions but all the images are previously unpublished with the field kitchen and radio truck featured along with the standard cargo truck. These first two books will be welcome reference for German soft-skin modellers and enthusiasts and a nice change from the usual ‘big-cat’ armour subjects. Available from SABOT direct or specialist book and hobby stockists Worldwide.
M1A1 SA in Iraqi Service Published by SABOT Chris Mrosko, Brett Avants, Pearce Browning Softback format 65 pages plus decals ISBN 9781947552012
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This is the fourth Abrams-focussed release in SABOT’s photo reference series with more for fans of the Abrams. These Iraqi M1A1s have a hard life and make great weathering subjects for modellers with this collection of images proving the point with ideal reference with overall action shots and walk-around style close ups included especially of the unique features such as the
mesh stand-off armour. We also have a selection of colour profiles and some very welcome 1:35 decals by the masters at Cartograf to represent the featured vehicles. Quite niche but offering a unique reference for these vehicles and certainly a nice change from the usual M1 subjects with plenty of weathering potential as the book shows.
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Fallen Giants The Combat Debut of the T-35A Tank Francis Pulham Published by Fonthill Media Softback format, 143 pages ISBN 9781781556269 www.fonthillmedia.com The five-turreted beast that was the T-35 may have looked impressive in the Soviet military parades but quickly showed itself to be outdated on the battlefield as it tried to hold it’s own against the German invaders. This new book doesn’t look to detail the technical side of the T-35 but it’s demise on the battlefields of the Eastern front documented (largely) by German troops with some fascinating images. The author has managed to identify a large
number of the vehicles with production numbers which are crossreferenced with maps giving a unique insight to these monsters. A chapter details the armour that served alongside the T-35s and a final review of their combat performance along with some attractive colour profiles. Essential reading for any modeller of Soviet armour which certainly had us digging out the recent Zvezda kit!
T-60 Small Tank and Variants James Kinnear and Yuri Pasholok Published by Canfora Hardback format 176 pages ISBN 9789198232561 www.canfora.se
This is the first in a new series from Sweden's Canfora, 'Red Machines' will focus on Soviet armour and in this case the diminutive T-60 (very timely with MiniArt releasing a brand new kit!). Canfora's usual high quality design and production presents the information very nicely; this book is packed with period photos (both in the field and factory shots), original diagrams and illustrations, contemporary plan drawings and colour profiles. The text is very informative whilst still being easy reading with
translated quotes from Soviet manuals and official documents with some tales of heroic combat involving the T-60. A comprehensive walk-around colour section will prove invaluable modelling reference. If your a fan of conversions a chapter containing AA gun versions and 'Katyusha' rocket launcher amongst other quirky prototypes (including a winged glider T-60!) should get you thinking. This series looks like it could be an absolute 'must' for Soviet armour enthusiasts.
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E35-256
E35-259
E35-258
E35-259
E35-255
EA35-199
E.T. Model Great to receive a batch of new releases from China’s E.T. with the quality consistent as always. In 1:16 are two sets of WWII German tool clamps (a photoetch favourite!) J16-001 are early versions and J16-002 late pattern. Still with German subjects are E35-256, basic detail set for Dragon’s StuG.IIIE and for the same kit are very nicely done fenders. E35-259 is a detail set for Meng’s Kingtiger which includes excellent tow cables and also for Meng is E35-258 designed for the Gepard and provides the correct square
E35-260
E35-257
pattern vents running along the hull. Also applicable is EA35-119 which provides a late smoke candle rack for German subjects. E35-260 is a big set to hike-up the Hobby Boss ZTZ-99A and also for Hobby Boss is E35-257 for the French VBL armoured car. Finally a nice upgrade including photoetched wheel spokes for the little Peugeot 750 motorcycle included in Meng’s FT-17 crew and orderly set, E35-255 is the product code. See E.T.’s full range at www.etmodeller.com
Aires 50
Held in high regard by aircraft modellers, Czech aftermarket aces Aires are producing some nice accessories for armour builders and we’ve a few of their latest figures to look at. 480161 is a seated Modern British driver to steer your Airfix Warrior, 480183 is
a WWII period German tanker and 480190 a Modern Russian commander gesturing with a raised arm. Sculpting and casting of all three is superb.
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Panzer DNA Daniele Guglielmi and Mario Pieri Published by AMMO hardback format, 139 pages ISBN 97884416949137 www.migjimenez.com
This new book from AMMO of Mig Jiménez gives a very good initial impression with nice design and production. Generally speaking the authors appear to have set out to produce a concise guide to replace the vintage ‘Panzer Colours’ volumes (for a long time a valuable reference for German armour modellers) and dispel the myths generated throughout the years by collating the most relevant contemporary information. The book is broken into very manageable and accessible sections covering unit composition, colours,
markings and also more specialist information on troops’ ranks, zimmerit, signalling and some handy tables of translation of the German terms and abbreviations to English. One interesting table is a price list of equipment from a Luger to a Tiger! Colour illustrations and diagrams help to display the information visually and although packed with period photographs, many in colour, most are the more commonly seen ones and image quality varies. A great up-to-date overview of the topic from pre-war until 1945 if you
MK35 You can always rely on France’s MK35 for characteristic civilian figures and here’s a great quartet of railway (or any labouring scenario for that matter) each comes with an optional head (with or without protective goggles) and the sculpting and casting is excellent. Each figure could obviously work individually or in groups and the new MiniArt railway sets immediately spring to mind to produce an instant vignette or diorama. Now with over ninety civilian figures on offer, MK35 are sure to have something to suit your latest ideas. www.mk35.com
Vallejo One of the pioneers of acrylic modelling paints, Spain’s Vallejo, continue to expand their offer of quality finishing products with more additions to their AFV Colour Series. Each set contains six 17ml ‘dropper’ bottles and the colours are ready to airbrush with details and colour profiles displayed on the packaging. 71.207 is a set of German DAK colours, 71.209 are modern U.S. desert colours (including shading and highlight tones), 71.210 are the much debated IDF colours from 1957 to date (including a primer and clear varnish). Another much debated range of colours are the British ‘Caunter’ colours provided in set 71.211 and set 71.212 has five tones of the MERDC U.S. Army pattern plus a clear varnish. Finally a generic set 71.213 covers wheel and track tones with a step by step guide. Still on top of their game, catch up with all the latest products and tutorials at www.acrylicosvallejo.com
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The IDF’s adaptation and customisation of it’s vehicles is best displayed surely by the Pumas adapted as engineering vehicles meaning some of the Shot-Cal tanks have served for almost sixty years! Due to this fact of leading a hard life and lots of intricate Puma Heavy APC equipment they certainly make fantastic Centurion based APC in IDF service Part 3 modelling subjects, hence this third volume Michael Mass and Adam O'Brien from the saviors of IDF modellers, Desert Published by Desert Eagle Eagle. After the introduction to the Puma Softback format, 82 pages family the book splits into bridge system ISBN 978965 7700 068 vehicles, mine clearance (roller, ‘Viper’ and www.deserteagle-publishing.com
carpet system) and command vehicles with an excellent mix of in-action images and detailed close-ups providing very usable allround reference. A selection of CAD drawings will aid modellers even further with enough information to allow some scratchbuilding of parts. Even if you’re not planning on building one of these mean-machines in the near future the colour images are invaluable reference for weathering and groundwork. All the quality we’ve come to expect from Desert Eagle, superb reference.
Merkava Siman1- Part 1 Michael Mass and Adam O'Brien Published by Desert Eagle Softback format, 82 pages ISBN 978965 7700 075 www.deserteagle-publishing.com
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The IDF Armor series continues at a pace with number 20, great news for modellers of IDF subjects. One of the World's most famous armoured vehicles in perhaps it's purest form? Merkava Mk1, with the usual Desert Eagle approach of quality large format colour images and detailed, knowledgable research resulting in the perfect easy access modelling reference. As this is Part One the chapters are a little more in depth with more to come in the next volume (such as the usual 'Man and Machine' feature) we
have an excellent insight here to the power pack, suspension, and external details with the author's unrestricted access revealing removed side skirts and 'live' maintenance. This release is just in time for the new Takom Mk1 or if you still have the classic Tamiya kit, another essential addition to the library of any IDF modeller but beware; buy one Desert Eagle book and you'll want them all. Our thanks to www.aviationbookcentre.com for our sample copy.
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AF35-111
AF35A13
AF35-A11
AF35A10
Rochm We’ve received some more of Rochm’s beautiful presented photoetched upgrade sets. The presentation and quality of the products really is superb with full colour photographic instructions that would shame most high-end kit manufacturers. All of these samples are for the Kingtiger and Jagdtiger in 1:35; AF35A10 is a full detail set for Dragon or Zvezda’s final production Henschel turret, AF35A13 is another full detail version for Dragon’s Porsche
turret and AF35111 is a basic(!) set for Dragon’s Jagdtiger. A small fret AF35 G05 provides delicate mesh screens for the engine deck for the Dragon kits. For the superb Meng Kingtiger we featured a couple of issues back is full detail set AF35A11. These sets really do offer the ultimate in detail and will leave you wanting for nothing. Full details at: www.rochmmodel.com
Iwata Some new products from the Iwata experts at The Airbrush Company to enhance your airbrushing pleasure. Iwata Lube is special formulated to keep moving parts of your ‘brush operating smoothly by maintaining it’s viscosity and is free from silicone (something you don’t really want anywhere you’re painting). Something that I personally use and wouldn’t be without is a spray-out pot, doubling as an airbrush
holder as well as a place to discharge any unwanted paint or cleaning fluid these certainly are a clean way to work for your desk and the air around it. Another very convenient accessory is a desk-edge holder to accommodate two airbrushes safely, the base clamp looks like it would adapt to most work surfaces and the multi-posable holders include a fitting to accommodate the spray-out pot.www.airbrushes.com
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Dunkirk 1940, Through a German Lens Alan Ranger Published by Mushroom Models Softback format, 88 pages ISBN 9788365281722 www.mmpbooks.biz Having enjoyed the experience of the recent ‘Dunkirk’ movie I did feel one detail that was lacking was the sheer scale and destruction of the battle and evacuation. These previously unpublished images presented in a photo-album style certainly give proof of that with over 200 shots taken by German troops of the advance to the town and the aftermath of the evacuation, the
Operation Dynamo Colouring Book Published by MMP Books / Stratus softback format, 32 pages ISBN 9788365281609 www.mmpbooks.biz
town and beaches littered with vehicles, equipment and ships. There’s some excellent photographs with plenty of images for modellers of Allied subjects to take reference from but generally the historical content and detailed captions make this an interesting read which is sure to prove popular with the recent surge of interest. A very thought-provoking book.
The old-fashioned colouring book has certainly made a come back of late, so if butterflies and country cottages don’t get you excited maybe this will have you digging out your coloured pencils? Again, latching onto the Dunkirk movie is this collection of stylized line drawings to scribble away at with a good selection of
Allied and German vehicles and aircraft which, we have to admit, look like they could be a lot of fun. How long before someone does aftermarket cardboard tracks and laser-cut paper detail sets?! Something a little lighthearted from Mushroom Model Productions.
Panther Ausf. A/D/G Published by MMP Books / Stratus softback format, 32 pages ISBN 9788365281609 www.mmpbooks.biz
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Not so much a book as a set of plans in 1:72, 1:48,1:35 and 1:16 for Panther versions A, D and G with some generic balkencruz masks included. The 1:16 plans are printed on quality A1 size foldout loose sheets but we feel they lack considerable detail at this size (being enlargements of the smaller versions). One feature that never disappoints with Kagero are the colour profiles which are again, superb with a good choice of subject vehicles each with some informative text.
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1:35 Hong Model’s kit by Mark Neville
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ZSU-23-4M/MZ
ell the saying goes you wait for a bus and two turn up at once, in this case it was Shilkas. No sooner had we received the fresh new 1:35 kit from newcomers Hong Model and Meng told us they would shortly be releasing a ZSU-23. The rule still stands in the AFV Modeller studio that if you spend too much time looking through the contents of a kit you have to build it, as we’ve already featured Meng’s offering I thought we’d see how Hong’s kit fairs-up. This subject has been long overlooked in
W
1:35 and I’ve often fancied building a Shilka based on images from one of the recent global conflicts with a heavily weathered finish. I’ve shied away from the work involved bringing the vintage Dragon kit up to scratch so this seemed an ideal opportunity for an out of the box project concentrating on weathering; shouldn’t take long to build should it? The detail and quality of moulding looked really good so I cleared the bench and cracked open a bottle of Mr Cement...
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The guns are an intricate and demanding assembly but look good when finished, some may The design of assembly is standard; lower hull
wish to add firing cables and coolant hose but are
‘tub’ and large single piece upper hull. Things
barely visible. The guns can elevate to the desired position freely
do start to get a little more complicated with the turret and cannons.
I found filler required on the
until you fix the top cover (not in place here).
leading edges of both sides due to a difficult fit.
Rear engine deck covers require plenty of sanding and Photoetch is good and
dry fits to obtain a good fit
fits well, what we’ve come to expect included in modern kits.
This edge protruding appears correct
Separate relief
when compared
detail parts
with reference.
needed blending in with some Mr Surfacer here.
A retaining chain should be present at either end of these fold-down flaps.
A large hole need drilling for the radar unit. No mention of this on the instructions and would be easier done from inside the turret roof before assembly.
Idler wheels are a very sloppy fit; some packing required and plenty of drying time for the adhesive.
Many turret fittings require locating holes that aren’t mentioned.
Transpose the part numbers for the suspension arms to the opposite side!
I’m no track-snob but the kit’s individual links with two separate guide-horns per link? No thanks. Masterclub produce some great resin and white metal track sets. I struggled with the resin pins provided so cut my own from 0.4mm brass rod. The tyres are a snug fit between the guide horns, in hinesight a little sanding of the tyre’s back edge would have helped.
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The driver’s hatch is a separate assembly with internal detail allowing the option of posing it open, no internal driver’s position parts are offered though.
Tow fittings left an unusual champhered gap around their base, I
These parts are wooden in reality, a couple of swipes with a
used Magic Sculpt putty to create the
razor saw blade added a convincing grain texture.
heavy weld seams seen in reference
The upper hull isn’t glued in place at this point; a little
images.
sanding of the edges under the sponsons made for a better
I won’t go into any details about the ZSU23, (Zenitnaya Samokhodnaya Ustanovka / self propelled anti-aircraft system) I don’t really know a great deal but I just love the way they look and if you’ve seen any movie footage of them you realise what a formidable weapon they can be against air and ground targets with those 23mm auto cannons. This is all about the kit, which, to be honest, is a real mixed bag and a bit of a pig to build at times. As a general overview I’d say the instructions are riddled with mistakes (wrong numbered parts, location holes required without mention) and location points either too large or too small and some sloppy fit in places...but...it’s not all bad. The presentation of the kit is nice and the moulding sharp and clean with a high level of detail which is pretty
comprehensive and accurate when compared to reference images (a good place to look is http://www.primeportal.net and our very own back issue 81 with a reworked version of Dragon’s old kit). Clear parts are provided for the vision blocks and optic parts and a nice little photoetched fret ads some welcome finesse. Decals provide a good selection of versions from Eastern Block countries to more modern Gulf War examples all presented nicely on a colour fold-out sheet. I’ve deliberately held off adding any of the missing small details to show exactly what comes from the kit, but they are quite minor; some wiring of the radar unit and marker lights and a clamp on the front glassis for the tow cable (which I haven’t fitted but is supplied as a soft
copper cable). The kit tracks; I just couldn’t face assembling or cleaning up three tiny parts per link, the detail is good and I have seen them assembled by braver souls than me to good effect. We tracked(!) down a set of the Masterclub white metal versions (resin are also available) and very nice they are too, with the realism you get from the ‘sit’ of metal links hard to beat. We shouldn’t forget this is Hong’s first kit, none of the challenges it throws at you take a great deal of correction, they’re mainly frustrating and slow you down such as wrongly numbered parts and poor location points but this kind of adds to the satisfaction of seeing the finished model on the bench ready for paint.
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I primed the Shilka with Mr Finishing Surfacer black which not only serves as
water based gouache for many years with good results. The colours above
an excellent base coat but a pre-shade. Over this I applied the base green
(cadmium red, cadmium yellow, lamp black and zinc white) are all I ever use
(AK’s Russian Green oversprayed with some transparent blue ink in places)
for various tones. You can return to your pallet and re-work the dry paint with
and sand camo allowing the black to show through in shaded areas.
water at a later date.
Although there are many ‘out of the bottle’ effects to create dust I’ve used
I first airbrush the gouache (mixed to a milky consistency) but to do this you need a very matt base coat. This is then manipulated with a wet or moistened paintbrush (using water) and allowed to wash and accumulate as dust would and drying to a very matt and chalky finish. The lower hull received a much heavier coat with a less diluted mixture. I was working closely to some colour reference images of ex-Syrian Army vehicles where the dust had a slight pink cast to it which I exaggerated knowing this would tone down with the subsequent processes.
The next step was a filter of heavily diluted (enamel thinner) yellow ochre oil paint. Working on small sections or panels dampened with the mix this
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helps harmonise the colours and while still damp is a good surface to
Here we can see the effects of the gouache, filters and washes taking
apply pin washes to. The washes are done with burnt umber and black oil
shape. Note the scratches and scuffs in the dirt through to the base
colours and start to give depth to the details. A benefit of using the water
colours, a damp cocktail stick easily achieves this touch of realism.
based gouache is that it isn’t affected by enamel thinners and can be
My reference showed some damp areas accumulated on the front glacis
worked over very quickly.
which were replicated with less diluted washes.
I worked round each section with the same techniques. I find breaking a
The kit’s wheels are nicely detailed with various washes enhancing the
model into sections for the main weathering and shading processes
contrasts. The layers of effects can be seen on the side of the hull, note
allows experimentation as you go, if something doesn’t go to plan it’s also
the dirt splashing and splatters created by loading a brush with the
easier to rectify a single section than the whole model!
gouache and blowing a shot of air through it with the airbrush.
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Before placing the stowage I added some gloss varnish under where the oil barrel
My final steps of wear and tear involve adding some bare metal
would be placed to represent spilled diesel.
effects to selected edges and areas of high wear. A Micro-Brush and graphite powder was used to give a subtle sheen.
A graphite stick (or a soft pencil works equally
Back to the graphite powder (Ushi Van Der
Lifecolor’s ‘European Asphalt’ I find is a good match
well) picks out areas of highest wear such as
Rosten’s ‘Iron’ was used in this case) to highlight
for old rubber on the road wheels, these were easy to
hatches, crew access and handles. The
the running contact surface of the tracks.
paint by pulling the track to one side. I final dusting in
handles on the rear deck are a little chunky
The tracks were painted in place as the dust tones
select areas with pigment powder (a mixture of Brick
and may be better replaced with finer brass
needed to match the rest of the lower hull plus I
Dust and Light Earth) and we’re almost done with
rod.
find I always hit snags fitting painted tracks to a
weathering and ready to detail paint the tools and add
finished model.
the stowage.
Gun barrels also received the polishing powder treatment and I buffed some areas of the turret with my finger which gives a very slight sheen to areas where the dust would be brushed away by the crew. Now all that’s left to do is place the stowage, figure and sort the light lenses.
After watching the Editor’s progress on his 1:16 Panzer crew I was inspired to have a bash at my own figure. Starting with one of our own mannequins (available from mengafvmodeller.com in 1:35 and 1:16) he’s not bad for a first attempt and hopefully places the Shilka in the Syrian conflict. I also now have the upmost respect for figure sculptors!
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Lacking a dash of colour I decided to liven things up with the stowage. The resin oil barrel is from an old MiG Productions set and the carpet from the excellent Reality in Scale range which is printed on a flock material. The water bottles are from Meng and the discarded shirt made from Magic Sculpt.
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So now we have two modern Shilka kits to chose from (we featured the Meng kit in issue 90). This kit from Hong is for a modeller with some experience who can handle mistakes on the instructions with some tricky fit and position of parts. Ultimately I’m happy with the look of the finished model, the detail is good, in fact excellent in places and the kit should rate as a very commendable first effort from Hong.
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