BBC Good Food 2012-10 India

✓ eat in✴eat out✴eat away

TRIPLETESTEDS RECIPE

+ 0 7

OCTOBER 2012 ` 100

India

Sweet spot!

Chocolate gone festive

chocolate & raspberry brownies, p 154

✴ Brownies updated ✴ Fondant fancies ✴ Crinkle cookies ✴ Chocolate almond biscotti

THROW A PARTY!

Cook a Pakistani feast Show off with mushrooms

MODERN VEGGIE Hip masoor salads

IN SEASON

Cooking with apples EAT OUT Six coastal restaurants

EAT AWAY Eat like a local, Dubai

Pro vs Punter, Mamagoto

Dharamsala on your plate

MASTERCLASS LPQ’s step-by-step chocolate brownies p 144

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Gift a treat! What power rests in a gift that causes its receiver to pay it back? The question inspired anthropologist Marcel Mauss’ The Gift, a brilliant inquiry into the age-old reciprocal exchange between humans. Mauss believed this give and take blurs the line

it simple yet impressive. Here’s what’s cooking this October:

SAY OUI TO PUY! I love the earthy, nutty flavour of masoor in salads. The best part—it doesn’t go all mushy! P 78

Brownie points (and pointers) Stock up on our arsenal of

masoor gone mod

between the spiritual and the material in a way that is almost magical. I so agree.

This issue is our special gift to you for the festive season.

We’ve packed it with ideas and recipes to make sure you

never run out of inspiration. As always our mantra is to keep

chocolate gifts with a twist — fondant fancies, truffles, crinkle

of delight in the immense global potential Think dal is boring? Discover and puy lentils, with our cool salad recipes as the earthy masoor, also known

cookies. All made by you in your home. Brownies are back with good reason. The simple

CHOCOLICIOUS! These treats are chocolate-fuelled acts of love. Seductive, yes. Wicked, definitely. P 104

dough of flour, butter and eggs transformed into squares of fudgy goodness makes the sweetest present. Try our raspberry-spiked chocolate brownies for tart contrast, p 154.

Guaranteed to impress, they’re super easy to make. (And almost too hard to give away!)

Masoor made over Discover the secret side of masoor dal. The green lentils — known as Puy lentils owing to their cultivation in the Le Puy region of Auvergne in France — are a classic of French gastronomy and a popular salad ingredient globally. We show you how to pair them with crumbly goat cheeses, rice, crunchy greens, beets and the like. My pick — the warm puy lentils, cherry tomato and halloumi combo on p 84.

Puy lentil salad with soy beans, snow peas and broccoli (recipe on p 80)

eat in show-off

McKELVIE styling LUCY Recipe LULU

Gresham Fernandes, the shroom-loving chef of Smoke House Room JOYCE

JOYCE

JUKES Food styling JENNIFER

starring the many edible fungi varieties now available in the Indian

JEAN CAZALS Styling RACHEL

JUKES Food styling JENNIFER

truffles

in New Delhi creates a stunningly innovative line up of dishes

Recipe JENNIFER JOYCE Photograph

Recipe JENNIFER JOYCE Photograph

JEAN CAZALS Styling RACHEL

Milk chocolate and pistachio (recipe on p 106)

Black and white pinwheel cookies (recipe overleaf)

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14/09/12 2:57 PM

eat in in season

A classic apple dessert

GRIMES Photograph

Blooming shrooms This edition is a mushroom lover’s dream.

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IGGLEDEN Food

homemade chocolate this festive season by gifting these Gain maximum brownie points and family. A delicious heads up for Diwali! sensations to friends

Styling JENNY

Present perfect

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PHILLIP WEBB

eat in show-off

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market besides button mushrooms. The gorgeously subtle umami

taste of the shiitake tea will linger in your memory. And the porcini

mushroom ice cream — oh that ice cream — is a quiet riot in the mouth.

Pakistani accents Award-winning food blogger Shayma Saadat shows us that Pakistani

eat in weekend

cooking comes with its own set of rules — and flavours. Saadat cooks an elegant and

regal weekend feast set apart by its Pakistani-Afghan influences. The Yakhni pulao (they say ‘palao’ across the border) is a winner but it’s Saadat’s delectable Hunza-style apricot chutney that makes me want to visit the beautiful Hunza valley in North Pakistan.

The pages that follow cover the most delicious customs of the festive season —cooking, gifting and eating! Now that’s three great reasons to celebrate.

Make the mushrooms ahead and assemble a few minutes at a before serving dinner party.

Have a lovely month. (I hope you like your gift.) AM 14/09/12 11:06

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L3 entertaining_

A TOAST TO MUSHROOMS Toast is the perfect canvas for mushrooms. Move over, tomatoes, basil and mozzarella! P 88

Sona Bahadur, editor PS. There’s another reason to celebrate this month — the super-stylish Grazia is launching its fabulous website in October. Be sure to visit grazia.co.in.

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EASY AS PIE Love good ol’ fashioned apple pie? Make it sublime with seasonal local apples. P 74

14/09/12 12:28 PM

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WEST ASSOCIATE VICE PRESIDENT Gautam Chopra [email protected] Mumbai Reena Dave [email protected] Pune Ekta Dang [email protected] Ahmedabad Nishi Shukla [email protected]

Junior Food Editor Kainaz Contractor Consulting Editor Camellia Panjabi Assistant Art Director Shalaka Shinde Senior Graphic Designer P. Vel Kumar Editorial Coordinator Prital Patil Brand Publisher Senior Brand Manager Assistant Brand Manager Marketing Coordinator

NORTH BUSINESS HEAD Sohan Singh [email protected] GENERAL MANAGER Sameer Chhabra Delhi / Noida [email protected] Lokesh Arora [email protected]

Debolin Sen Abhishek Krishnan Savio Joseph Asha Karandikar

Chief Financial Officer Subramaniam S Publisher, Print and Production Controller Joji Varghese

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Good Food India is edited by Sona Bahadur and printed & published by Joji Varghese for and on behalf of Worldwide Media Pvt. Ltd., The Times of India Building, 4th Floor, Dr D N Road, Mumbai 400001. Printed at Rajhans Enterprise, No 134, 4th Main Road, Industrial Town, Rajajinagar, Bangalore 560044, India.

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Contents

COOK OUR COVER RECIPE!

78

154 Best-ever chocolate and raspberry brownies Makes 15 squares n 50 minutes n EASY dark chocolate 200g, broken into chunks milk chocolate 100g, broken into chunks salted butter 250g soft brown sugar 400g eggs 4, large plain flour 140g cocoa powder 50g raspberries 200g (available at gourmet stores) n Heat oven to 180°C. Line a 20 x 30cm baking tray tin

with baking parchment. Put the chocolate, butter and sugar in a pan and gently melt, stirring occasionally with a wooden spoon. Remove from the heat. n Stir the eggs, one by one, into the melted chocolate mixture. Sieve over the flour and cocoa, and stir in. Add in half the raspberries, scrape into the tray, then scatter over the remaining raspberries. Bake on the middle shelf for 30 minutes or, if you prefer a firmer texture, for about 5 minutes more. Cool before slicing into squares. Store in an airtight container for up to 3 days. n PER SERVING 389 kcals, protein 5g, carbs 44g, fat 22g, sat fat 13g, fibre 2g, sugar 38g, salt 0.4g

ALL YOUR FAVOURITE MAGAZINES ARE JUST A CLICK AWAY! Now, subscribing to BBC Good Food India (and all your other favourites like Femina, GoodHomes, Lonely Planet, Filmfare and others) just requires a click of the mouse! Log on to mags. timesgroup.com. Simply fill your cart with your favourite magazines and pay right from your desk. Plus get great discounts and really exciting gift offers! Log in now!

114

eat in

eat out

Inspiring, seasonal recipes that work every time

Restaurants on trial, cafés with character and signature recipes

54 7 MEALS FOR ` 700

114 RESTAURANT SPY

62 LUNCHBOX

122 PRO VS PUNTER

A week’s worth of stylish meals Light and easy lunch ideas

64 READY IN 30

Quick and simple recipes

72 IN SEASON

Make magic with seasonal apples

Six coastal restaurants reviewed

New Delhi’s Mamagoto on trial

126 SIGNATURE DISH

Honey pork chops from Rick’s Bar

78 MODERN VEGGIE Masoor gets a modern edge

86 WEEKEND

Make the most of mushrooms

96 ENTERTAINING

Elegant Pakistani dishes

104 SHOW-OFF COOKING Drop-dead delish chocolate gifts

148 SUBSCRIBE to Good Food India

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PRO vs PUNTER

Feel like the average diner doesn’t always agree with professional reviews? Become our punter in the ‘Pro vs Punter’ section and review a restaurant along with a seasoned pro. To apply, write to us at [email protected].

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October 2012

124

42 ON TEST

Processed cheese and chopping boards

44 BARGAIN HUNTER

Best-value foodie events, meals and deals

46 FOOD ISSUE

We investigate macrobiotic diets

48 FOOD GEEK

134 eat away

Foodie holiday ideas and recipes from around the world

128 EAT LIKE A LOCAL: DUBAI Middle Eastern menu from Dubai

133 BUDGET AND BLOWOUT

A foodie’s guide to Strasbourg

134 CITY ON THE PLATE: DHARAMSALA Eat your way through the multicultural city

139 POSTCARD FROM PERTH

Karen Anand visits the truffle capital of Australia

first bite 16 OVER TO YOU

Reader recipes, comments and letters

33 FIRST BITE

Thriving mushroom varieties

36 NEWS, TRENDS AND SHOPPING

Fresh finds, trends we like and more

Cook in a vacuum with sous vide

50 BOOKS & COOKS

Delicious new reads of the month

51 WHAT’S ON

October’s must-watch food TV

masterclass

106

Black and white pinwheel cookies

Out & about

JUST A FEW GOOD PLACES TO EAT FEATURED THIS MONTH

143 COOK LIKE A PRO

The perfect griddle pan for your kitchen

Strasbourg

144 CHEF SKILLS

Dubai

Alain Coumont’s step-bystep chocolate brownie masterclass

New Delhi

n

Dharamsala n

146 DO IT YOURSELF

n

n

nn

n n n n n

Homemade barbecue sauce

Hyderabad

147 WINE GUIDE

Pakistan

Stylish yet affordable wines

Goa Chennai

150 TOP PRODUCER

Organic produce from My Earth Store

n

Mumbai Perth

154 ONE CLEVER TWIST

Chocolate brownies with a fruity riff

THE BBC GOODFOOD LEGACY

T BBC GoodFood is the UK’s largest selling food magazine with a readership of over 1.1 million. T bbcgoodfood.com is the UK’s most popular recipe site attracting 3.7 million unique users per month. T The hugely successful iPhone & iPad apps have had over 70,000 downloads till date.

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Over to you For top restaurant, recipe and travel tips, we ask you, our readers, to keep us on the pulse

GOOD FOOD STAR RECIPE

Tortellini of fresh mushrooms Serves 4 n 1 hour 15 minutes + resting n MODERATELY EASY n To prepare the pasta dough, mix some salt and 400g flour evenly, make a well and add 4 beaten eggs and 30ml olive oil. Mix to form a dough, though it will not be smooth. Allow the dough to rest for an hour, so that the flour hydrates. The dough will be much easier to handle after an hour. n Knead well till you have a smooth and glossy finish. Roll out the dough through the pasta machine, while gradually reducing in thickness. Do this twice. Go really fine on the thickness

so it turns out quite delicate, which is a beautiful texture but hard to handle. Keep the sheets covered. n For the filling, wash 2 fresh Portobello, 4 fresh shiitake, 100g fresh shimeji, 100g fresh button and 100g fresh oyster mushrooms and pat dry. Slice all the mushrooms and add to a heavy bottomed pan. Add 30g butter and 50ml olive oil. Once the butter begins to foam, add 1 minced garlic clove, 1 chopped onion and the mushrooms. Turn up the heat and let the mushrooms sweat out their water. n Deglaze the pan with 100ml dry white wine, and reduce the heat, till it has evaporated. Turn off the heat, cover the pan and cool to room temperature.

Write to us! We love hearing from you. E-mail us your feedback, your favourite recipes and your comments at [email protected]. Let’s be in touch!

n Transfer the mushroom mixture a cutting board and chop roughly. Add 10 flat-leaf parsley leaves, juice and zest of 1 lemon and 30g grated Parmesan cheese. Season. n To make the sauce, cut 100g cauliflower into small florets, add 30ml olive oil and roast the cauliflower in a medium hot oven around 150°C till the edges begin to caramelise. Take it out from the oven. Add 500ml milk and boil the cauliflower till it totally breaks down, then purée the mix. Mix the cauliflower purée with 200ml cream and 500ml milk. You may have to add more milk to thin down the sauce. Adjust seasoning. n For the ravioli, cut the pasta sheets depending on the shape you like (square or circular) and add the stuffing in the centre. Seal each shape and use an egg wash to seal the ends. Try and remove most of the air in the ravioli or they will burst open when blanched. Keep the prepared ravioli on a tray with a lot of semolina. This keeps the ravioli dry and ensures that the pieces do not stick to each other. You can even freeze them. Make sure to use up the whole mix. n Bringing all the elements together, blanch the prepared ravioli in boiling salted water. Warm the sauce, add the ravioli, some of the pasta water to thin down the sauce, a drizzle of truffle oil and 1 tsp grated Parmesan cheese. Garnish with half a bunch of chives, 10 cherry tomatoes and 5 sautéed oyster mushrooms.

JOIN OUR TASTE TEAM Our Taste team comprises readers and home cooks who try our recipes and give us feedback on what they liked and what they would do differently. Write to us at [email protected] to join us.

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HOW YOU PIMPED IT

I needed a bit of arm strength for this recipe but it was worth it. I loved the earthy sweetness of the mushrooms combined with the sauce. I seasoned the sauce generously with pepper and mixed Italian herbs while doubling the garlic and cheese in the recipe. I would not have guessed that the sauce had cauliflower! A stunning recipe. Aditi Bharadwaj blogs at sushiand cuttingchai. blogspot.in.

Fudge

46% Brownies

INSIDERS’ POLL

32% Laddoos

15%

Chocolate truffles

What is your ideal homemade treat to gift this Diwali?

LETTER Dear editor, OF THE I would like to thank the MONTH whole team of BBC Good Food for introducing us to Moplah cuisine in the September issue. I had made Nigella Lawson’s meatloaf recipe a few months ago but the Stuffed bread recipe is perhaps the best way to combine both ‘meat’ and ‘loaf’ in one complete dish. Also, I loved the recipes featured in Feasting with Anjum especially the Fluffy pistachio cake I made for my son. The cake was light and the combination of dates, pistachio and orange turned it into an exotic dessert. The September issue also had some classic Spanish recipes like the Crema Catalana, which is my all-time favourite. I have a copy of all your publications so far and they have truly helped me hone my cooking skills, especially in international cuisines. Keep up the good work! Upasana Biswas, Mumbai The winner of the letter of the month for this issue wins a special festive hamper worth ` 5,000 from Foodhall. The hamper is filled with tempting goodies like Kalamata olives, extra virgin olive oil, penne rigate, basil crackers , chocolate fondue, Lemnos jalapeno cream cheese  and Jamie Oliver’s chilli salt . To write in to the magazine, e-mail us at bbcgoodfood@wwm. co.in and include your address and telephone number.

READER RECIPE OF THE MONTH Dr Shalini Grover is a sociologist who also runs a cookery club in New Delhi. She has added a Spanish twist to this pasta by using chorizo and by making the sauce in a paella pan (although a regular pan will also do).

Prawn Pasta Serves 4 n 30 minutes n EASY penne pasta 350g olive oil 30ml garlic 1 tbsp, minced chorizo 50g, diced onion 100g, finely chopped olives 50g, sliced finely capers 20g cherry tomatoes 100g, cut into half parsley 40g, chopped pesto 15ml fish stock 100ml fresh prawns 225g, peeled salt and pepper to taste n Cook the pasta in a large pan of salted water. In another pan, sauté the garlic in olive oil. Add chorizo to the garlic and fry. Then add the onion and cook for about 2-4 minutes. Add olives, capers, cherry tomatoes, and 20g of chopped parsley. Cook for about 5 minutes. Add pesto and fish stock and let it simmer until it becomes a semi-thick sauce. This can be made two hours in advance. Stir the prawns into the sauce, making sure not to overcook them. Add pasta and sprinkle the remaining parsley as a garnish.

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The winner of the Reader Recipe of the Month wins a special gift hamper worth ` 4,500 from Gourmet Company (gourmetco.in), an online gourmet store. The hamper contains a fondue set for four people, a chocolate fondue pack, marshmallows, shortbreads, fresh strawberries or dried fruit. To win the hamper, write down your favourite recipe, attach a photograph of the dish that is at least 1 MB in size, along with a photograph of yourself that is at least 500 KB in size and e-mail it to us at [email protected] with the subject line ‘Reader Recipe’. Don’t forget your address and telephone number!

Laddoos Photograph MARCIN ÅUKASZEWICZ/123RF

7%

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over to you readers write

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e v i t s e f

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Stuffed gulab jamuns Time required: 1 hour Serves: 12

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thin string. n Skim the impurities that float on top of the syrup using a slotted spoon. Add the saffron strands and keep the sugar syrup warm. n Mix the khoya, refined flour and cardamom powder together in a bowl. Knead the mixture into a firm dough without adding

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THE SUGAR SYRUP sugar 3 cups water 1 1/2 cups saffron a few strands

any water. n Divide this mixture into 25 equal portions and roll them into balls. n Make a depression by pressing the dough with your thumb. Fill it with the roasted nuts. Bring the edges together and roll it into a smooth ball. Repeat the same for the other portions. Refrigerate them for around 15 minutes. n Deep-fry the balls in ghee over a low flame for around 10-12 minutes till the jamuns are golden brown in colour. n Drain and soak the jamuns in the warm sugar syrup for around 30 minutes. Serve warm.

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Almond kheer WorldMags.net Time required: 1 hour 10 minutes Serves: 3-4 almonds 25 water 1/2 cup saffron 10 strands milk 1l sugar 1/2 cup cardamom powder 1/4 tsp pistachios 5, crushed coarsely to garnish

Time required: 1 hour 30 minutes Makes: 40 gram flour (besan) 4 cups ghee 1 cup sugar 2 cups, powdered cardamom powder 1 tsp almonds and raisins 1/2 cup, chopped saffron strands to serve METHOD: n Melt the ghee in a Nirlep 2-way Non stick pan and add the gram flour.

n Cook it on a low flame, stirring continuously till it turns golden brown. Remove the mixture and spread it on a plate and let it cool. n Add the sugar and cardamom powder and mix it well. n Add the chopped almonds and raisins. Shape it into laddoos. n Garnish with saffron strands.

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the almond paste. Keep stirring continuously till the mixture thickens. n Add sugar, cardamom powder and the saffron milk to the mixture. Cook for 2 minutes and take it off the heat. n Garnish the kheer with the chopped pistachios and serve chilled or hot.

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Photographs 123RF/ INDIANEYE, CATHY YEULET, MARCIN ÅUKASZEWICZ

Besan laddoo

METHOD: n Soak the almonds for 30 minutes in hot water and peel the skins off. Grind the almonds into a paste, adding the water. n Soak the saffron strands in a tsp of milk for around 15 minutes. n Boil the remaining milk in a Nirlep 2-way Non stick wide bottomed pan and add

In this issue

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GRESHAM FERNANDES



 ALAIN COUMONT

Gresham Fernandes is the Group Executive Chef – Fine Dine of Impresario Hospitality, the company that owns restaurants such as Salt Water Café in Mumbai, Smoke House Room and Smoke House Deli in New Delhi and Stone Water Grill in Pune. At the helm of all these restaurants, Fernandes is best known for his sophisticated yet quirky approach to cooking. In this issue, he creates an exclusive line-up of stunningly original dishes using different varieties of mushrooms, p 86.

 SHAYMA SAADAT

Photograph AMIT DEY



Alain Coumont is a Belgian chef and restaurateur and the founder of the Le Pain Quotidien chain of restaurants. In 1990, after working at a clutch of well-regarded restaurants, Coumont decided to start a boulangerie named Le Pain Quotidien in Brussels. The chain has now expanded to over 16 countries including France, Switzerland, the United Kingdom, the United States and India. Learn how to make the perfect batch of brownies from Coumont in this month’s Masterclass, p 144.

Shayma Saadat is a food blogger and photographer of Pakistani-Afghan origin who lives in Toronto. An economist by profession, Saadat writes about the Pakistani, Afghan and Persian recipes of her childhood on her award-winning memoir-style blog, The Spice Spoon. Get a taste of the fragrant cuisine from across the border with Saadat’s menu of Pakistani dishes featured in the Entertaining section of Eat In, p 96.

SHONALI SABHERWAL

ROCKY SINGH



Shonali Sabherwal is a certified macrobiotic health counsellor, chef and instructor based in Mumbai. She has qualified in macrobiotics from the Kushi Institute in Massachusetts. Earlier this year, Sabherwal authored The Beauty Diet, a book on the science behind macrobiotics. She tells you all about this in-the-news diet in Good Food Investigates, p 46.

Rocky Singh is a television anchor and foodie, best known for co-hosting the food show Highway on My Plate, along with Mayur Sharma. He is also the co-author of Highway on My Plate: The Indian Guide to Roadside Eating, a book that is a spin off of the popular series. When he is not on the road as part of the show, he is a human resources and business consultant. Singh weighs in with his opinion of New Delhi’s Mamagoto in Pro vs Punter, p 122. 20 BBC GoodFood

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OCTOBER 2012

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Get to know us

Our five easy-to-navigate sections enable you to find exactly what you are looking for. Here’s what you can expect to see in every issue of Good Food India: first bite news, trends, shopping

first bite news, trends, shopping

So many of them!

first bite

shrooms in bloom

Unearth the wonderful world of mushrooms. We take a look at a few of the more common varieties now available in India

Words KAINAZ CONTRACTOR Photographs SHIRISH SEN BUTTON

SHIITAKE

plump cap sits upon a stem that is long, stout and fleshy. These mushrooms have a very earthy flavour that intensifies tenfold when dried. Although they are more commonly perceived to be chestnut brown in colour, the fresh variety available locally are white and not as intensely woody in flavour. These mushrooms are mostly used in risottos, braised dishes or sautéed in butter and herbs.

Most extensively used in Japanese and Chinese cooking, shiitake mushrooms have an intense earthy flavour and meaty texture. Their stalks, albeit chewy, hold within them a concentrated mushroom flavour, which is ideal for making stocks and broths. Dried shiitake mushrooms are now widely available locally and just require a quick hydrating soak in warm water before being tossed into a stir fry or into an umami-packed soup. With dark brown skin and almost beige flesh, the shiitake mushroom (in addition to the Portobello) is also used as a flavoursome meat substitute in burgers and grills.

PORCINI

CHANTERELLE

INHERITING THE EARTH

SHIMEJI An absolute stunner to look at, shimeji or beech mushrooms grow in clusters and come in both white and brown varieties. With long stems and plump caps, the mushrooms have a delicate flavour that is sweet and nutty. When raw, shimeji mushrooms have a bitter taste, so make sure they are sautéed well. We recommend a generous tossing in herbs and olive oil or butter, served as an accompaniment to seafood.

PORTOBELLO

Mushroom cultivation in India has come a long way since plain ol’ button mushrooms. Walk through any gourmet supermarket and you will notice the scales tilting in favour of more earthy and exotic mushrooms. From the hearty Portobello to the petite enoki mushroom, the flavours are strong, mysterious and versatile. Sliced in a salad with olive oil or braised in a meaty stock, we tell you how to make the most of the varieties of mushrooms that are now available.

Brown-capped, plump and meaty, Portobello mushrooms have a nice earthy smell and don’t retain as much water as the button varieties. This makes them ideal for grilling whole or with stuffing. Like shiitake, they too make great substitutes for meat. Make sure you choose the freshest of the lot; avoid the limp and slippery ones. Visually stunning with pronounced gills on the underside of the mushroom cap, the Portobello’s flavour is distinct yet not overpowering, which makes it the star of any dish as well as an impressive accompaniment.

SHIMEJI

ENOKI

SHIITAKE

BUTTON

TRY OURPER SHOWSTOP MUSHROOM ON RECIPES P 86

CHANTERELLE Golden yellow in colour with a cap that resembles a hand fan, the chanterelle’s flat top has gill-like ridges that seamlessly make their way to the stem. Chewy in texture (similar to the shiitake mushroom), chanterelles have a nutty rather than an earthy flavour. They are quick to absorb the flavour of cooking liquid; which makes them ideal to use in heavy sauces with wine, cheese or cream as the base.

ENOKI The most delicate of the mushrooms, enoki are white in colour and grow in small clusters. Flower-like with long, slender stems and tiny caps, they have a mildly nutty and sweet flavour with a slight crunch. This makes them ideal for delicate garnishes in salads and stir fries. They are best had raw or lightly cooked. Enoki mushrooms don’t

PORTOBELLO

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14/09/12 4:06 PM

not take well to grilling, but their high water content adds depth and flavour to dishes like light curries, soups and earthy stews.

Available at gourmet grocers; INA Market, New Delhi; Crawford Market, Mumbai; Godrej Nature’s Basket and Foodhall outlets nationwide.

PORCINI A wild mushroom that’s found predominantly in Italy, the porcini’s

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Our opening section is the perfect appetiser for the pages that follow. First Bite brings you the month’s freshest food buzz — new launches, events, great bargains, supermarket sweeps, health tips on food and more. In every issue we spotlight local produce in season in Need To Know. And our Good Food Investigates pieces delve deep into important food issues to bring you insights that really matter to you. P 33

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eat in weekend

T Eat In

mad about Make M k magic i with ith different difff t mushroom h varieties. i ti O Our standout t d t recipes i scream wow!!

The largest section of the magazine, Eat In is packed with fabulous recipes with little tips and tricks that are perfect for the home cook. Each recipe is triple-tested by us so you get it right the very first time you make it. We’ve got everything covered — from easy everyday dinners and show-off menus for the weekend to modern veggie dishes and seasonal recipes bursting with the month’s flavours. P 53

Recipes GRESHAM FERNANDES Photographs SHIRISH SEN Props courtesy GOOD EARTH, THE SHOP, FABINDIA, FCML HOME, ZAZA, PURE

MENU FOR 4 ✴ Shiitake tea ✴ ✴ ✴ ✴ ✴

✴ porcini ice cream

“Dubbed as the meat of the veggie world, mushrooms are some of the most versatile ingredients around. A dried shiitake mushroom, when braised with soy and mirin, tastes as good as tender roast meat. Mushrooms are low in calories and a good source of Vitamin B. The demand for mushrooms in the country is growing gradually and has to be sustained not only by chefs but home cooks as well.”

T First Bite

Roast chicken with braised porcini (recipe on 90)

Gresham Fernandes, Group Executive Chef of Impresario Entertainment and Hospitality

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eat out restaurant spy

Toast to

the coast We put on trial six coastal restaurants famed for their seafood

cheerily secure in place. Finally, they place the platter of masala-charred crabs before us. Sweet, with just a hint of the masala coming through, the crabmeat is moist and tears away from the shell with little resistance. The Prawn Masala, though delicious when mopped up with the Ghavne (a lacy rice crepe), and Bhakri (rice flour chapatti), pales in comparison to the crab. The prawn is as home style as it gets with a freshly pounded coconut, garam masala and dried kokam base characteristic of the curries found in the interiors of Maharashtra. But it is let down by the prawns, which are overcooked and we suspect, a bit stale.

HOW WE DID IT When it comes to seafood, Indians are spoilt for choice. With a coastline more than 7,000 km

long and rich culinary traditions that are typical to each of the coastal states, we are not just privy to an astonishing variety of seafood but also ways of cooking with them. The restaurants chosen in this selection showcase the best of these culinary traditions, and without exception, specialise in seafood.

n BESTSELLERS

A big list! Bombil Fry, Tandoori Crab, Crab in Green Chilli Sauce, Stuffed Pomfret, Prawns Pickle, Clams Koshimbir, Crab Masala, Sea Bass Koshimbir, Lobster Butter Garlic Pepper, Prawns Masala, Stuffed Bombil Fry and Special Surmai Curry.

n PROVENANCE

To prevent overfishing during the monsoon, Gajalee serves seafood caught from the waters of Chennai and Visakhapatnam, which receive rainfall after Mumbai. For the rest of the year, local seafood is procured from the city’s Crawford and Sassoon markets. Apart from the crabs that are sometimes sourced from Sri Lanka, nothing is imported here.

Stuffed pomfret at Gajalee

GAJALEE, Mumbai parading the day’s plumpest catch at each table, tempting diners. The menu hasn’t changed much since the restaurant opened in 1991 and its forte continues to be dishes from the coastal stretch of Maharashtra. The Tandoori Crab might seem like an unusual dish for a Malvani

restaurant but our server tells us that it is the restaurant’s speciality. The crab is basted in a mildly piquant Malvani spice rub rather than Punjabi tandoori masala. Next, we are told to take our pick of the live crabs, followed by crab clamps and bibs, which the servers

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n GO FOR STARTERS OR PUD? Illustrations ARTSPACE/123RF

The Gajalee mother ship at Vile Parle has over the years attained what one can only describe as crustacean supremacy — no one cooks a crab in Mumbai quite like Gajalee does. As you navigate your way through the unassuming interiors, you’ll see servers

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When pitted against the restaurant’s signature starter of Clams Koshimbir, our Caramel Custard is on shaky ground. Not comparable to anything you’d get at a Parsi or Irani café, the custard is agreeable but it could have been lifted with some more caramel.

The clams and Bombil Fry, on the other hand, are exceptional. Concealed beneath a semi-dry masala of coriander, coconut and spices, the plump clam meat is infused with all the flavours of this classic Malvani preparation. The Bombay duck, fattened and fried to a crisp, has remained a classic at the restaurant’s many branches.

n WHAT TO DRINK

When in a Malvani restaurant, your beverage of choice should always be a glass of chilled sol kadi. Gajalee’s version of this tart, coconut milk–based drink that gets its pink hue from kokam is a tad heavy-handed with the garlic. Ordinarily, we love a potent hit of garlic, but it doesn’t sit quite as well in a chilled drink. Other options include colas and virgin coolers, though we would have loved to chase down our Bombil Fry with a chilled pint of beer.

n INSIDER TIP

The management at Gajalee claims to make frequent visits to the local fish markets to get the freshest, seasonal catch. Before placing your order, talk to the server about which of the seafood bounty is the best to order. Looking at the tiny pomfrets in our local fish market, we skipped ordering one. But mid-meal we caught a glimpse of the hefty pomfrets they got from the coast of Kerala instead. Something we’d definitely go back for.

n DETAILS

Gajalee, Kadamgiri Complex, Hanuman Road, Vile Parle (E), Mumbai. With branches in Lower Parel, Andheri, Juhu, Mangalore and Singapore. Tel: +91 22 2616 6470/ 2611 4093. Timings: Lunch 11.30 am-4 pm; dinner 7 pm-12.30 am. Starters ` 85 onwards; mains ` 140 onwards; desserts ` 70 onwards.

Quality: 8/10 Atmosphere: 7/10 Provenance: 8/10 Choice: 8/10 Value: 8/10 Total: 39/50

From top to bottom: Crispy Bombil Fry; Tandoori crab; Gajalee’s Versova branch

T Eat Out This section stands out for its uniquely-positioned restaurant reviews and features that are authoritative, objective and reliable. A novel approach to restaurant reviews, our Pro vs Punter section enables a Good Food India reader to go undercover and rate a restaurant together with an expert. Plus, we get leading chefs from around the country to simplify their signature recipes to make at home. P 113

— Kainaz Contractor

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eat away local knowledge

T Eat Away

EATTDOTSHOPTSTAY

City on the plate

Dharamsala

Our seasoned travel journalists and food experts (who are often residents of the featured locations) arm you with insider information and recipes from the world’s most exciting food destinations. Eat Like A Local brings easy, authentic menus from fantastic food destinations while Budget and Blowout shows you how to get your wallet’s worth when travelling. And City On the Plate features the insider’s food guide to an Indian state. P 127

Steaming bowls of thukpa, stuffed momos, tender bulgogi, crispy tempura, crunchy Belgian waffles — thank heavens for Dharamsala’s nippy, appetite-inducing mountain air! Words MATTHEW SINGH TOOR Photographs JUDY REDDER

EAT

The local Tibetans call Dharamsala ‘Dhasa’, in rhyme with Tibet’s capital, Lhasa. No surprise given that this bustling Himachali hill station is home to the Dalai Lama and the Tibetan government-in-exile. But Dharamsala is also a melting pot. In the mix are three generations of Tibetan refugees, indigenous Gaddi folk, Kashmiri and Nepali business people, migrant workers from Bihar and, of course, tourists and devotees from across India and the world. Such a diversity of mouths must be fed, and the ever-widening range of cuisine on the streets of McLeodganj (also referred to as Upper Dharamsala) includes Tibetan, Himachali, Italian, Belgian, Korean and Japanese, with new stalls and restaurants popping up every week. For Tibetan street food, make your way to the stalls on Temple, Jogiwara and Bhagsu Roads, where the ubiquitous momo (` ` 10 per plate) is served steamed or fried and stuffed with spiced potato, cabbage, spinach, radish or carrot, with a dollop of chilli sauce on the side. For Tibetan noodles as eaten by the locals, cheap and cheerful doesn’t preclude good quality. Badol Café, next to Om Guest House, just off

Facing page: Momos cooked by a Nepali street-vendor outside Namgyal Stupa Bazaar

the main square (it doesn’t sport a sign board), serves a hearty mutton thukpa for breakfast or lunch. Made of noodles with mutton keema in pok choy soup (` 50), it is quite satisfying. More adventurous street food lovers should also try the Chinese dish lang phing. The tastiest kind is a yellow, turmeric-flavoured pancake (` 30) made of steamed gluten extracted from tapioca flour, chopped and served in a soup of chilli, soy sauce, garlic and salt. Dharamsala’s Tibetan restaurateurs have also diversified to meet international tastes. The Korean Café Ri (Tibetan for ‘mountains’), close to the Green Hotel on Bhagsu Road, was opened eight years ago by Mr Jamyang. Chef Tenzin Dimey’s mouth-watering Bulgogi (` ` 180) consists of tender lean pork, marinated overnight in soy or chilli sauce, then fried and served on a bed of rice with carrots, onion, capsicum, cabbage, ginger and garlic. Side dishes include aubergine in soy sauce with Korean spices, kimchi and the soup of the day, usually miso with either kim (seaweed), tofu or spinach. Café Ri also serves a Kim Pab or sushi, set meal (` ` 130). Seaweed and rice parcels are meticulously filled with tofu, egg and seasonal

vegetables. Unlike Japanese sushi, the fillings in Kim Pab are spiced, so there’s no need for wasabi (although it is served on the side). A steep 10-minute walk down Jogiwara Road from McLeodganj’s main square brings you to Lung Ta Japanese restaurant. The vegetarian menu includes a special for each day of the week (except Sunday), with the best – crispy tempura (` ` 150) – on Thursday. Variations include aubergine, carrot, onion, capsicum, okra and cauliflower, all deep fried in a light batter and served with a tofu and nori (seaweed) miso soup. Side dishes vary – the cucumber salad with toasted sesame seeds and salsa vinaigrette of tomato and cabbage are superb accompaniments. The Tibetan community has embraced coffee culture in recent years with myriad coffee and cake houses offering brews on par with any of the big metropolitan chains. Beans on Jogiwara Road and the Tibetan Children’s Village Meeting Point Café (tcvcraft.org) on Temple Road serve up steaming cups of espresso, latte and cappuccino. Along with the coffee, you can satiate your sweet teeth with a fluffy, glossily-iced chocolate cake at Beans or a moist coconut pie at Meeting Place.

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masterclass chef skills

ALAIN COUMONT’S

Chocolate brownies Chef Alain Coumont, founder of Le Pain Quotidien, shows you his technique of making chocolate brownies like a pro Photographs ANEESH BHASIN

1 Chocolate brownie Serves 9 n 1 hour n MODERATELY EASY

Put some water in a pan and bring it to a boil. In a cooking bowl, put butter and chocolate together and keep the bowl on hot water. This method of cooking is called the double boiler method (see tip).

2

In another bowl, whisk together the eggs and sugar until the mixture is light and fluffy.

3

Sift the flour carefully into the mix, in order to avoid lumps.

When the chocolate is melted with the butter, take the bowl off the heat and slowly fold the egg mix into the chocolate mix, so the heat of the chocolate doesn’t cook the eggs.

5

For baking, put paper cups into moulds, pour 130g of mix into it and bake in preheated oven at 165°C for about 35-40 minutes.

6

To check whether the brownie is cooked or not, put a knife through it. If it comes out nice and clean that means that the brownie is good to go. Serve it warm along with a sprinkle of sugar and a scoop of ice cream if you like.

A cross between a cake and a cookie in texture, chocolate brownies are either fudgy or cakey depending on their density. They are usually served with either milk or coffee. You may include roughly chopped toasted nuts, grated orange zest or chocolate chips for variations in this recipe. Any local variety of chocolate can be used but for best results, we recommend Callebaut or Valrhona chocolate. butter 250g cooking chocolate 300g caster sugar 250g (try Tate & Lyle available at gourmet stores) eggs 5 refined flour 50g

4

EXCLUSIVE STEP-BY-STEP RECIPE

TIP A double boiler, also known as a bain-marie, is a stove-top apparatus used to cook delicate sauces such as beurre blanc, to melt chocolate without burning or seizing or to cook any other thick liquid or porridge that would normally burn if not stirred constantly. It consists of an upper vessel containing the ingredient to be cooked that is placed above a lower pot of water. When brought to a boil, the steam produced in the lower pot transfers heat to the upper pot.

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T Masterclass Learn to cook like a pro in our Masterclass section. Pick up cooking lessons directly from culinary masters in India and abroad. Make restaurantperfect dishes and pick up fine dining finishing touches of chefs through illustrated step-by-step recipes in Chef Skills. We also feature nifty kitchen gadgets that sharpen your kitchen skills and our 10-minute wine guide is perfect for wine lovers. P 143

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How to get the best from Good Food India

THE GOOD FOOD INDIA PROMISE We hope you enjoy our lively mix of recipes, restaurant reviews and travel features. We attempt to make them

Why you can cook our recipes with confidence

What our symbols mean

fun to read, but we are also serious about eating well and

All the recipes in Good Food are tested thoroughly, so they’ll work the first time for you at home. Most of our recipes are developed in the Good Food test kitchen by our cookery team or come from food writers and chefs. We aim to make our recipes as practical as possible, keeping ingredient lists to a minimum and avoiding lengthy preparations.

EASY Recipes everyone can make, even beginners. These dishes are usually quick, often on the table within 20 minutes. MODERATELY EASY These require a bit more skill – for example making and rolling out pastry. A LITTLE EFFORT Recipes aimed at experienced cooks who cook for pleasure and like a challenge. CAN BE FROZEN Unless otherwise stated, freeze for up to three months. Defrost thoroughly and heat until piping hot. VEGETARIAN Meat-free dishes. JAIN Suitable for Jain cooking.

and every issue:

How we triple test our recipes

1 2 3

The first time is by the recipe writer, who tests the recipe in a domestic kitchen. Next, a member of the cookery team makes the recipe in the Good Food India kitchen. The recipe is then tested at our photo shoot. Some recipes are tested a fourth time at home by individual members of the Good Food editorial team — we’re all keen cooks and often can’t resist trying out a recipe we particularly love, as soon as we’ve discovered it. Testing our recipes three times or more may seem over-cautious, but mistakes can be costly, so we think it makes sense to ensure you get the right result every time.

doing it sustainably. Here’s what you can expect from this TRIPLE-TESTED RECIPES All our recipes are tested at least three times. For great results, we recommend you use standard level measuring spoons, and don’t mix imperial and metric measures. EASY RECIPES Most of Good Food’s recipes are quick and simple to follow and can be made using easily available ingredients. THE ODD CHALLENGE Weekends are perfect for elaborate meals and entertaining. We’ve included a smattering of show-off recipes for those who enjoy a good challenge. GOOD VALUE Look out for our recipes that aim to make the most of your budget — 7 meals for ` 700. We also use full packs, cans and jars where we can, to avoid waste, but if that’s not possible we aim to suggest ways of using up leftovers.

Over to you Have a family recipe to share or think you could add to our recipes? Email us at bbcgoodfood@wwm. co.in and let us know. We’re always on the look out for new places and food stories and would love to hear about great places to eat in your hometown.

SEASONAL EATING We love using seasonal ingredients in our recipes because they give the food a distinct flavour and add seasonal freshness. This month, we’re eating a lot of apples. HEALTHY EATING We reckon the 80% sensible, 20% indulgent way of eating is best which is why we support our recipes with nutritional info. We’ll also tell you how to give popular recipes a healthy makeover. PROVENANCE MATTERS Where possible, we use humanely reared meats, free-range chickens and eggs, sustainably sourced fish and unrefined sugar. INTERNATIONAL SAVVY Sometimes, recipes call for ingredients that aren’t available locally and can’t be

LOOK OUT FOR THESE HIGHLIGHTS REALLY REALLY EASY

REALLY REALLY QUICK

FOR SKILLED COOKS

brought to India without notching up air / sea miles. It’s your choice whether or not you use them. REALLY REALLY EASY

Marinated mushr ooms

Serves 4 ■ 30 minutes

Those recipes marked with this stamp are the simplest and require very little effort.

dried porcini mushroo ms 5 (try Epicure available at gourmet stores) fresh porcini mushroo ms 5, with stems fresh shiitake mushroo ms 5, without stems

Recipes that can be made under 20 minutes. Perfect for hectic weekdays. Show-off recipes when you fancy a challenge. These recipes require a little effort.

Shiitake tea

Serves 4 ■ 10 minutes + resting ■ EASY A quick, simple dish, the soaking liquid of dried ingredien ts imparts an earthy flavour — be it porcini mushrooms or sundried tomatoes . Alternatively, you can perk up the taste by using chicken stock instead of water. ginger 1, medium-s ized spring onions 2

dried shiitake mushroo ms 150g fresh shiitake mushroo ms 3, mediumsized water 1l salt and pepper to taste

■ Wash the ginger and smash it with the flat side of the knife. ■ Halve the spring onions and mix with the ginger and shiitake. Pour boiling water over the mixture. Cling wrap the bowl and keep aside overnight. ■ Strain the contents through a muslin cloth, slice some of the rehydrated shiitake and the fresh shiitake for the garnish and keep the remaining mushrooms for later use in the marinated mushroom s (next). Warm the liquid and adjust the seasoning. Add both the shiitake and thinly sliced spring onion greens. Serve warm. ■ PER SERVING 115.50 kcals, protein 3.75g, carbs 29.70g, fat 0.28g, sat fat none, fibre 4.53g, salt 0.1g

CHEAP EATS AND SMART TREATS Hole-in-the-wall

■ EASY

I have sought inspiratio n from my father for this recipe. His tendency to add all ingredien ts at once always imparted sublime flavours to the dish. High in complexit y, every element in this dish has flavours that are both water-soluble and fat-soluble. Hence the use of the olive oil and water.

dried shiitake mushroo ms 5 shimeji mushroo ms 250g (available at gourmet stores) Portobello mushroo ms 2, whole (available at gourmet stores) button mushroo ms 10 fresh oyster mushroo ms 250g fennel seeds 10 olive oil 200ml garlic clove 1, cut into half water 200ml Vermouth 100ml zest 1 orange sherry vinegar 5ml (try Capirete available at gourmet stores) fresh French bread or any crusty bread to serve ■ In a heavy-bottomed pan, add all the ingredients at once and cook on slow till all the water evaporate s and the mushrooms are submerge d in the oil. Leave to cool. ■ Cut the bread and brush it with the oil from the mushroom . Toast the bread in a pan. Serve the warm bread with the cool marinated mushrooms. ■ PER SERVING 488.50 kcals, protein 3.48g, carbs 13.48g, fat 46.68g, sat fat 6.65g, fibre 3.98g, salt 0.1g

eateries and fine dining restaurants — there’s room for both in Good Food’s Eat Out pages. LOCAL KNOWLEDGE The Eat Away section arms you with insider info and recipes from the world’s most exciting food destinations written by on-the-ground food journalists. BIG ISSUES Preaching doesn’t come naturally, so we won’t tell you what, or what not to eat. Instead, we keep you up-to-date with issues and debates in the food world

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For a list of stores that stock gourmet ingredients, turn to p 153

in our Good Food Investigates feature. Read about the issues regarding macrobiotic diets on p 46.

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Step into eco-friendly luxury at The Orchid in Mumbai and get spoilt for choice at its plethora of restaurants. Boulevard is the 24-hour coffee shop with the ‘Lightning Menu’ — any dish not served within ten minutes is absolutely free! Or else choose to drop in for the breakfast, lunch, dinner or midnight buffets, which are lavish yet reasonably priced. South of the Vindhyas showcases South Indian culture and cuisines of Andhra Pradesh, Karnataka, Kerala and Tamil Nadu. While the ambience is reminiscent of a palatial Mangalorean estate house, the menu is a juxtaposition of traditional recipes and fusion cuisine. Another speciality is the Sit Down Buffet, which features a set menu that differs daily. Mostly Grills is the open-air fine dining restaurant. Dine under the stars in this fusion barbecue restaurant and watch chefs transform prime cuts of imported meats into exotic, succulent steaks in the open show kitchen. Vegetarians need not worry as there is enough choice for them as well. Taverna Bar also serves a variety of spirits, wines, liqueurs and exotic cocktails along with snacks. Merlin’s is the perfect choice if one is in the mood for melodious music and a cosy setting. Drop in for the karaoke evenings or watch the live band perform and choose from among the extensive range of the best Indian and imported liquors. The Gourmet Shop is a foodie’s paradise. The wide array of enticing goodies, delicious aromas and inviting ambience can bring out the gourmet in anyone. Indulge in mouth-watering breads, puffs, quiches, pastries and fruit pies.

All about BBC Good Food India’s Privilege Programme At BBC Good Food India, we believe no reader of ours should ever have to sit down to anything less than a king’s buffet. Which is why when you subscribe to our magazine, you receive an exclusive Privilege Card that allows you to live out all your food fantasies through a host of special offers. You can swing by over 150 hand-picked fine dining restaurants and enjoy special prices, welcome drinks and complimentary desserts. Or head out on fabulous culinary tours and gastronomic adventures around the globe. You can also stock your larder with exotic ingredients and fine wines or pick up fancy chef’s paraphernalia for the kitchen and bar. To savour this lavish offer, visit goodfoodprivileges.in.

To subscribe, SMS GFPC to 58888 or log on to mags.timesgroup.com/good-food.html 26 BBC GoodFood

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OCTOBER 2012

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need to know live masterclass

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Comfortably YUM!

BBC Good Food’s live masterclass with Chef Mikhail Shahani of Two One Two Bar and Grill was all about delish comfort food

Words PRIYANKA HOSANGADI Photographs FARROKH JASSAWALA

A

fter a long day at work, nothing perks you up like your favourite comfort food. But sometimes even those much-loved dishes need a makeover. At BBC GoodFood’s live masterclass held at Foodhall in Mumbai in August, Chef Mikhail Shahani of Two One Two Bar and Grill chose to do just that. He began his demo with the quintessential comfort food — macaroni and cheese. While his Oven Baked Mac and Cheese Truffle Condiment was quick and easy to make, the truffles added a different dimension to the dish. Shahani went on to make a Chicken Burger with Avocado Salsa. He prepared the salsa by scraping out the buttery flesh and after seasoning it, added tomato, onion, parsley, chillies and olive oil. Shahani then made the chicken mince patty. Next, he assembled the burger. Here too, the dish was served with a twist. As the participants tucked into the delicious burgers, Shahani insisted they add truffle bits to the salsa as it

is the only dried fungus that can be eaten raw. Finally it was time for dessert. With his light chef’s touch, Shahani made making tiramisu seem like a cakewalk. He whisked the cream and beat the egg whites. Then, he folded the cream into the mascarpone. The coffee liqueur was made by boiling water with coffee powder and adding Kahlua liqueur to it. After the mixture cooled, Shahani soaked Savoiardi biscuits in it and layered them in a bowl along with the custard. As he showed how to make tiramisu, Shahani explained the importance of sourcing products such as Savoiardi biscuits to make this dessert taste authentic. Through the demo, Shahani answered the participants’ questions and gave them useful tips to follow at home. After the two-hour long masterclass, those who attended left not just satiated with food, but also with some great practical knowledge for their kitchens back home.

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need to know live masterclass

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That’s the

spirit!

BBC Good Food together with Nikhil Agarwal hosted a stylish wine pairing masterclass at Le Pain Quotidien in Mumbai

Words MEHER MIRZA Photographs FAROKH JASSAWALA

C

hoosing the right wine to go with different kinds of food can be daunting. So we teamed up with Nikhil Agarwal of All Things Nice to bring you some fabulous food and wine pairing ideas. On a sultry August afternoon, participants gathered at the charming Colaba eatery, Le Pain Quotidien for a taste of some expert wine pairing suggestions. The class kicked off with Agarwal asking everyone to taste an unidentified powder with their noses closed. The reason was soon revealed — it turned out to be a mixture of cinnamon and sugar, and the rationale of the exercise was to demonstrate just how much our taste is determined by smell. Next, the participants sipped on a fresh French sparkling wine, the Bulle No 1, AOC Blanquette de Limoux, paired with a choice of appetisers. The smoked salmon salad and beetroot and mandarin salad followed, paired expertly with a Waterford Estate Chenin Blanc from South Africa. With the mains came an oaky Bodegas Franco Reserva 2004 from Rioja in Spain. To finish, there was a choice between apple crumble and softcentred chocolate cake which was heavenly with the sweet Baron Philippe

de Rothschild Mouton Cadet 2007 from France. In between mouthfuls of the tastefully-plated food and wine, questions came fast and furious. What do you pair with garlic bread? How long after opening a bottle of wine should you keep it? Which wine should you drink with dal makhani? The answer to the last question — a big red, such as an Aussie Shiraz from Mclaren Vale because of the residue in the wine that cuts the spice and matches the body of the food. Agarwal busted several wine myths. For instance, it is not always necessary to match a white wine with white meat and red wine with red meat. Also, most wines do not need to be aged; they taste better when consumed right away. At the end, a sated group of participants lazily made their way home, ready to flaunt their newly learned wine-pairing knowledge at their next e. weekend soirée.

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first bite news, trends, shopping

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first bite

shrooms in bloom Words KAINAZ CONTRACTOR Photographs SHIRISH SEN BUTTON

PORCINI

CHANTERELLE

INHERITING THE EARTH Mushroom cultivation in India has come a long way since plain ol’ button mushrooms. Walk through any gourmet supermarket and you will notice the scales tilting in favour of more earthy and exotic mushrooms. From the hearty Portobello to the petite enoki mushroom, the flavours are strong, mysterious and versatile. Sliced in a salad with olive oil or braised in a meaty stock, we tell you how to make the most of the varieties of mushrooms that are now available.

SHIMEJI

ENOKI

SHIITAKE

PORTOBELLO

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first bite news, trends, shopping

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So many of them!

Unearth the wonderful world of mushrooms. We take a look at a few of the more common varieties now available in India SHIITAKE

plump cap sits upon a stem that is long, stout and fleshy. These mushrooms have a very earthy flavour that intensifies tenfold when dried. Although they are more commonly perceived to be chestnut brown in colour, the fresh variety available locally are white and not as intensely woody in flavour. These mushrooms are mostly used in risottos, braised dishes or sautéed in butter and herbs.

Most extensively used in Japanese and Chinese cooking, shiitake mushrooms have an intense earthy flavour and meaty texture. Their stalks, albeit chewy, hold within them a concentrated mushroom flavour, which is ideal for making stocks and broths. Dried shiitake mushrooms are now widely available locally and just require a quick hydrating soak in warm water before being tossed into a stir fry or into an umami-packed soup. With dark brown skin and almost beige flesh, the shiitake mushroom (in addition to the Portobello) is also used as a flavoursome meat substitute in burgers and grills.

SHIMEJI

PORTOBELLO Brown-capped, plump and meaty, Portobello mushrooms have a nice earthy smell and don’t retain as much water as the button varieties. This makes them ideal for grilling whole or with stuffing. Like shiitake, they too make great substitutes for meat. Make sure you choose the freshest of the lot; avoid the limp and slippery ones. Visually stunning with pronounced gills on the underside of the mushroom cap, the Portobello’s flavour is distinct yet not overpowering, which makes it the star of any dish as well as an impressive accompaniment.

ENOKI The most delicate of the mushrooms, enoki are white in colour and grow in small clusters. Flower-like with long, slender stems and tiny caps, they have a mildly nutty and sweet flavour with a slight crunch. This makes them ideal for delicate garnishes in salads and stir fries. They are best had raw or lightly cooked. Enoki mushrooms don’t

last for long so it’s best to use them immediately after chopping the base off and separating the stems.

BUTTON

R TRY OU PER P O T S W SHO ROOM MUSH S ON RECIPE P 86

The mushroom that went mainstream, the humble button or cremini mushrooms make a regular appearance on vegetable carts. They have stout stalks and bulbous caps. Locally grown and perennially available, button mushrooms can be adapted to almost any cuisine. They do not take well to grilling, but their high water content adds depth and flavour to dishes like light curries, soups and earthy stews.

PORCINI A wild mushroom that’s found predominantly in Italy, the porcini’s

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An absolute stunner to look at, shimeji or beech mushrooms grow in clusters and come in both white and brown varieties. With long stems and plump caps, the mushrooms have a delicate flavour that is sweet and nutty. When raw, shimeji mushrooms have a bitter taste, so make sure they are sautéed well. We recommend a generous tossing in herbs and olive oil or butter, served as an accompaniment to seafood.

CHANTERELLE Golden yellow in colour with a cap that resembles a hand fan, the chanterelle’s flat top has gill-like ridges that seamlessly make their way to the stem. Chewy in texture (similar to the shiitake mushroom), chanterelles have a nutty rather than an earthy flavour. They are quick to absorb the flavour of cooking liquid; which makes them ideal to use in heavy sauces with wine, cheese or cream as the base. Available at gourmet grocers; INA Market, New Delhi; Crawford Market, Mumbai; Godrej Nature’s Basket and Foodhall outlets nationwide.

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HOT FINDS

WorldMags.net CUPBOARD LOVE CAPERS

New in the supermarket this month

How to use up…

T KANIWA

T Smoked salmon wraps with caper and lemon mayo Mix mayonnaise with chopped gherkins, baby capers and lemon zest. Spread over flour tortillas, then top with slices of smoked salmon and watercress. Roll up and halve before serving. T Olive and caper dressingFinely chop pitted olives, shallots, capers and garlic garlic.. Put in a small pan with a few tbsps of olive oil and gently warm for 5 minutes. Add a good squeeze of lemon, season and use to dress fish or vegetables. T Basa with capers and limeFry basa fillets in a pan for 2-3 minutes on each side. Add 1 tbsp capers and a good squeeze of lemon and swirl to combine. Serve the basa with the sauce spooned over. T Puttanesca prontoPut 2 chopped tomatoes, 1/2 chopped garlic clove garlic clove, 1 tsp capers and a handful of chopped black olives in in a bowl. Add 2 tbsp olive oil and some chopped parsley, toss and season. Cook 75g spaghetti, drain and mix with the sauce. Try Surfine for ` 150, available at gourmet stores.

These gluten-free, protein-rich seeds are being hailed as the new super food. Resembling mustard seeds, they lend a crunchy texture to anything they are added to. We tried them in a salad and as a side to grilled fish. The dried seeds can also be used to add crunch to fried foods. Try Roland, available at Foodhall and Godrej Nature’s Basket for ` 511.

T PICKLED CACTUS (NOPAL) After its fleeting appearance on Masterchef Australia, the prickly pear cactus seems to be the flavour du jour in Mexican cooking. It tastes like a mushy, tart gherkin and looks like gooey strips of aloe vera. We tried it in bacon omelettes, sandwiches and hung curd dips. Try La Costena, available at Foodhall and Godrej Nature’s Basket for ` 249.

Products courtesy GODREJ NATURE’S BASKET

T PORCINI TAGLIATELLE Morelli has introduced a range of wheat germ tagliatelle laced with flavours like porcini, truffle and even black squid ink. These come at a price though so avoid heavy sauces and let the porcini shine through. We recommend it for a light lunch tossed in olive oil, garlic, basil and bacon bits. Try Morelli, available at Foodhall and Godrej Nature’s Basket for ` 480.

SUPERMARKET SWEEP Pop into the supermarket for this quick and delicious Malaysian curry

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Prawn and butternut laksa Serves 2 n 15 minutes n EASY Put 2 parcels of Roland organic udon noodles ((`` 244/363g) in a shallow dish and cover with boiling water. Heat a little vegetable oil in a wok and cook some pumpkin wedges ((`` 15.5/350g) on medium till they start to colour and soften, add 2 tbsp of Blue Elephant red curry paste ((`` 205/70g) and cook for 1 minute. Pour in a tin of Thai Kitchen coconut milk ((`` 265.5/400ml), stir well and heat through. Drain the noodles and refresh in cold water, then add half a packet of Sumeru peeled prawns ((`` 170/200g) that have been boiled to the soup. Put the noodles in a deep bowl, pour over the soup and finish with chopped peanuts and fresh coriander, if you like.

TOTAL CO ST

` 558

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THE JURY’S OUT

GASTRONERD RILLETTES

THE CASE FOR Having given up nonvegetarian fare six years ago, what do I sink my canines into when confronted with rare meat cravings? It’s veggie meat to the rescue! Made of ingredients like soy and amaranth, mock or faux meats are steadily gaining popularity among vegetarians. After all they appear, feel and taste exactly like meat. The fact that they are protein-rich reassures the healthy eater in me, plus they serve as an alternative to fat-laden meats (at times injected with chemicals and antibiotics), which shoot your cholesterol levels through the roof. Besides, meat production escalates the release of global warming gases, thereby increasing your carbon footprint. The bottomline— by switching to mock meats, you’re being kind to animals, the earth, your body and your conscience. - KHORSHED DEBOO

Meat, usually pork but also duck and rabbit, cooked in its own fat with seasoning until very tender and then pounded or shredded. This technique can sometimes be applied to fish as well. Often served in a ramekin or similar dish.

Illustration OLEH TOKAREV/123RF

Mock meat

THE CASE AGAINST Yes, I get it. Giving up meat is not easy and choosing mock meat is all about being cruelty-free which is great. There’s no dilemma there. But does choosing veggie alternatives necessarily equate to being healthy? The fact is that several of these faux meats are highly processed and are often packed with preservatives, added flavours and salt. That would make them as unhealthy as their meaty alternative. Why would you want to put that into your body? And why eat fake meat at all? Why not fill yourself up with fresh veggies, fruits and grains instead? After all, faux meat is never going to taste like meat, nor should one want it to — to me, that seems to go against the very idea of vegetarianism. - MEHER MIRZA

Blooming cuppa Your morning cup of chai just got more beau-tea-ful! Newby India Private Ltd (NIPL), a subsidiary of Newby Teas, UK, has created an innovative range of flowering Chinese teas. The handcrafted tea is made from green tea leaves and exotic flowers. When steeped in hot water, the leaves unfurl, creating a unique display resembling a blooming flower. These leaves are handpicked in China, and the moisture in the leaves is retained to provide the flexibility for the creation of the flowers. The teas are infused with myriad floral aromas, such as marigold, amaranth and jasmine. (newbyteasindia.com)

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BAKE YOURSELF HAPPY Open your oven doors for Gourmet Company’s latest offering — Baking Shelf, a curated collection of quality baking ingredients from the world’s most popular baking brands. It will carry everything a passionate baker requires, right from cookie cutters, essences, bread and cake mixes, baking sugars, canned fruit to nuts, seeds, glitter, icing colours, sugar pearls and sprinkles. The Shelf features among others, Wilton, an extremely popular brand with bakers around the world that is difficult to find in India; Satin Ice (a popular brand of ready rolled fondant) and LorAnn, for flavouring oils and essences. Visit gourmetco.in for more details.

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COMING UP!

Something delicious this way comes. And this one’s the foodie do of the year. Good food and good company will come together on October 21st this year as a celebration of Good Food Day, just in time for BBC Good Food India’s first anniversary. Good Food Day promises a day of utter deliciousness. The festivities will be held in Mumbai where a posse of celebrated chefs will rustle up fabulous multi-cuisine cooking for guests over a lavish brunch. See you there! Write in to [email protected] for more details.

RED HOT CONTEST Make way, MasterChef. Red Hot Chef is here. The doors of The Institute of Hotel Management at Aurangabad were thrown open to a trailblazing culinary journey as 400 participants from Gateway Hotels across the country vied for culinary supremacy in the ‘Red Hot Chef’ Contest, organised by the Taj group of hotels in Aurangabad. The contest, which concluded in August this year, provided the chefs an opportunity to interact with some of the best chefs and restaurateurs in the business. Several eminent personalities held masterclasses for the contestants. For instance Chef Simon Chakour of Souk, Taj Bengal, hosted a Middle Eastern masterclass and Chef Gerard D’Souza (Dean, IHM Aurangabad) held a masterclass in wine-making. With this contest, launched in January this year, the Taj aims to bring about consistency in the food served across all Gateway hotels and raising the bar of guests’ food experiences. The challenges at all three levels of the contest focused on developing the qualities required to make the perfect chef — commitment to hygiene and quality, ingredient knowledge,

creativity, attention to detail, team work and most of all, a focus on the customer. Most of the participants came across ingredients they had never seen or heard of, working in areas of the kitchen they hadn’t been exposed to and following recipes they have never made before. The winning dishes included such delights as Asparagus Three Ways and Herb-Crusted Pan-Fried Chicken. The five winners came from all across India (and one or two from Colombo!) and were awarded the chance to enjoy advanced culinary training in a reputed hotel in Bangkok.

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ON TEST Processed cheese We pick the perfect processed cheese after putting five to the test Words KAINAZ CONTRACTOR Photographs VINIT BHATT

BRITANNIA ` 172/ 400G This is one cheese that works well only when grated and sandwiched between two slices of bread and toasted until all memories of its chalky aftertaste disappear. Upon cutting a slice, we notice a granular texture to the cheese, which later manifests itself in an unpleasant coating on the tongue. On a platter full of cheeses, Britannia’s bold and imposing flavour stands out, but not necessarily in a good way.

LOVES KRAFT ` 200/200G As one of the first imported cheeses to make its entry into the Indian market, Kraft cheese is a much milder variety among the other processed cheeses available. It isn’t too salty and does not leave a residue on our palate like the rest. This is not a cheese that melts well in toasted sandwiches. It is best had as part of a cheese platter with flavoured crackers or in cold sandwiches. This block of cheese tasted radically different from the Kraft singles we’ve had in the past, which were far bolder in taste.

♥

GOWARDHAN ` 75/200G After you get through the initial frustration of ripping open the external packaging that refuses to tear away from the foil that wraps the cheese, you’ll find a cheese that’s rather agreeable. The mildest of the Indian cheeses, Gowardhan does not have a strong odour, which makes it perfect for using either melted or as is. As the newest entrant into the Indian processed cheese industry, Gowardhan’s versatile and characterful cheese is a worthy contender.

MOTHER DAIRY ` 82/180G Mother Dairy’s cheese is unappetising, to say the least. It has an oddly bitter and mineral taste, which does not go down too well with us even when masked with salted biscuits. Unlike other packages, the percentage of sodium is not listed under the nutritional information, which makes us suspect the quantity used. The only upside is the texture of the cheese; we cut it smoothly without the cheese disintegrating into crumbs.

Chopping boards GRANITE ` 500 ONWARDS Elegant granite surfaces are finding favour amongst those who choose aesthetics over functionality. No doubt, the glossy red of a tomato really stands out on a black-grey surface but when it slides off the board, it’s time to rethink your decision. The good news is that it is the easiest to clean and has a long life. Available at cookware stores.

AMUL ` 142/400G Amul’s cheese reminds us of that cheesy baked cauliflower we so often had while growing up. It has an inherent creaminess that is lacking in most of the others, which explains this vegetarian cheese’s popularity as the leading choice for mostly everyone – from the local sandwichwala to mummy’s experiments with Continental fare. Amul’s place isn’t on a gourmet cheese platter; this is the cheese of the masses, meant to be grated on top of a desi pizza or in a pool of melted goodness in parathas.

Which one has the cutting edge?

PLASTIC ` 150 Plastic chopping boards are non-porous. This makes for a hygienic chopping surface since the bacteria have no room to multiply. Chopping on the plastic surface is a breeze. The vegetables stay firmly in place and don’t slide off. Plus, it doesn’t bruise easily with repeated slashing, which increases its shelf life. Easy to clean and quick to dry, this is a LOVES must-have. Available at cookware stores.

♥

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WOODEN ` 130 ONWARDS Smooth and polished in the beginning, the surface of the wooden board quickly loses its sheen and becomes rugged — perfect for express chopping and slicing. Over time, the knife tends to get stuck in the wood while chopping. It is also argued that wood is the least hygienic of the lot due its porous texture, so you should reserve the chopping of any meat for a plastic board. Available at cookware stores.

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BARGAINHUNTER

All prices PER HEAD excluding taxes and travel

BBC Good Food tracks down this month’s best value foodie events, meals and deals Words KAINAZ CONTRACTOR

T

` 162-A-HEAD DINNER PARTY FOR FOUR!

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` 666 SUNDAY BRUNCH,

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ONE PLUS TWO LUNCH,

HYDERABAD

We can’t fathom the reasoning behind Urban Asia’s devil-inspired pricing for their Sunday brunch buffet spread but we’re definitely one for going down the dark road of gluttony. This chic Pan-Asian restaurant in Jubilee Hills has an extensive spread of Chinese, Japanese, Malaysian, Thai and Indonesian food and their Sunday brunch lineup of dishes includes salads, soups, starters, noodles and dim sum. At an additional cost of ` 222, they’ll even throw unlimited alcohol into the mix. Call +91 40 65556888 for details.

T Pumpkin and puy lentil salad (p 79) ` 164

T Steamed fish with lemon, ginger and chilli (p 68) ` 220 T French toast with porcini ice cream (p 94) ` 264 Total ` 648 ( 162 per head) (`

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` 399 UNLIMITED BEER,

MUMBAI

If there ever was a time one should seriously consider wearing adult diapers, this is probably it. Revolting as it may sound, that might just be the only way to get the most out of this deal. To make you feel you’ve truly earned your tipple, the folks behind Headquarters Bar have come up with an offer for unlimited beer from 1 pm to 6 pm until you make a trip to the washroom. We recommend you beat the system with a strategy in mind because a limitless supply of Kingfisher beer at ` 399 doesn’t come along too often. Call +91 22 22883985 for details.

DELHI

We just love it when exhorbitantly priced restaurants decide it’s time to appeal to the less fortunate. After Hakkasan in Mumbai, it’s Delhi’s modern Japanese restaurant Megu that has taken a step towards making meals more affordable. Megu’s executive lunch deal includes a free starter and dessert with every main course ordered. The only condition being that instead of the entire selection on the menu, you get to choose your complimentary starters and dessert from a lineup of five dishes in each course. Call +91 11 39331234 for details.

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ADVERTORIAL

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Cheese and more! Readers weigh in on what makes RRO CHEESE BAR the best!

COME SHOP AT RRO CHEESE BAR

P

lain Cheddar or flavoured Stilton? Smoked Provolone or pepper Pecorino? Choosing the right cheese can be daunting - the different types, flavours and textures can leave you overwhelmed. And if that isn’t bad enough, dealing with staff who also don’t know enough about the varieties, can be frustrating. We want to hear from you, our readers, about your search for

the right cheese! Luckily, there is now help at hand and you can get a variety of gourmet cheeses delivered right at your doorstep. RRO, the company that boasts of brands like Olivio Olive Oil, Express Foods Breakfast Cereals, Barilla Pastas & Sauces and Primio Groundnut Oil, now has a range of global cheese brands in its kitty.

The philosophy behind RRO Cheese Bar is simple – always provide customers with the highest quality products. Its team can help you buy the right cheese – their expertise and years of experience ensure they understand your requirement. Choose from an extensive range of Italian, French, Dutch, Swiss and English cheeses, either plain, smoked or flavoured. Some of the varieties they featured include Grana Padano, Parmigiano-Reggiano, Gorgonzola, Ricotta, Chèvre, Brie, Camembert, Edam, Emmental, Gouda, Cream Cheese or even Feta. These gourmet cheeses are available in a variety of pre-cut individual packets, as well as bulk packs for kitchen and deli counter use. You may also check with the team whether they have any seasonal cheeses in stock with them. What sets apart RRO Cheese Bar is that it goes beyond just delivering the cheese. Interested customers can also learn about how the cheese is produced, try out recipes by RRO’s consultant chefs or even be part of the tastings and promotions at RRO Cheese Bar!

WHAT PEOPLE SAY

Mr. Vivek Matthai

Assistant Vice President (Sales) at Mount Everest Mineral Water Limited, Mumbai

I HAVE

been an avid cheese lover for the past few years and was delighted to discover RRO Cheese Bar, a place where all types of exotic cheeses are available. The RRO Cheese Bar is well stocked & displayed beautifully

Mrs. Prema Rodrigues Home-maker, Colaba, Mumbai

OH CHEESE!!!!

I love it!!! Hence my one-stop shop for cheese shopping is RRO Cheese Bar, as there are so many flavours and varieties to choose from, that you can never get bored. In fact every time I have a party, I entertain with a cheese

with cheeses - mild, medium or strong, catering to different segments of customers. I was further impressed by the knowledge of the staff at the counter, attractive and informative leaflets, especially the high standard of hygiene and freshness as compared to other outlets in the market. In fact I have recommended the counter to other friends who like cheese and who have started purchasing from the bar. Truly world class and good value for money!!

platter. For any cheese platter, the quality and freshness of cheese is of utmost importance, hence I prefer purchasing my cheese from the RRO Cheese Bar as they suggest cheese & food pairing and encourage you to sample before purchasing the same. In addition, I love cooking, so the possibilities of using cheese are endless. I think it just lights up a photograph when you say “cheeeezzzzzzz”.

FIND RRO CHEESE BAR AT

Contact us at [email protected]

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MACROBIOTIC DIETS With a basis in Far Eastern philosophy, macrobiotic diets claim to offer a balanced approach to nutrition. BBC Good Food delves deeper Words SHONALI SABHERWAL

I

Balance

Below: This n the Indian scenario today, macrobiotics as a medical philosophy in 1896 and Diet for Health published macrobiotic diet everyone is taking to fad diets, that is geared towards preventing in 1898. It is believed that this dietary chart shows primarily as a temporary disease and prolonging life. regimen, which primarily advocated some examples formula for weight loss. But it was Sagen Ishizuka, a eating whole grains and vegetables of foods and There is very little thought given to Japanese army doctor, who first and eliminating highly processed methods of prevention — either of weight gain defined the tenets of a macrobiotic and refined foods, helped Ishizuka cooking that are considered or ailments. While fad diets offer only diet as we know it. Although he deal with his own kidney and skin yin and yang a stopgap solution, prevention is a did not call it a macrobiotic diet, diseases. according to permanent cure that helps the body he established his own system George Ohsawa, a student of macrobiotics stay in complete balance. Prevention of nutrition and medicine using Ishizuka, is considered the founder of illnesses by way of a balanced principles of Oriental medicine. of modern macrobiotics. Michio diet is the philosophy that drives The knowledge he gleaned led him Kushi, a macrobiotic educator who macrobiotics. to write and publish two books: had trained with Ohsawa, is credited In Greek, ‘macro’ means great Chemical Theory of Longevity published with having introduced modern and ‘bios’ means life (macrobiotics macrobiotics to America in the 1960s. means ‘the larger view of life’). When It started as a food movement, where Hippocrates, considered the father people met in small groups, cooked of Western medicine, first used the together and shared thoughts on word macrobiotics, it was to describe the macrobiotic diet and lifestyle. people who lived long healthy lives. Kushi Institute, the international Vegetable Whole German physician Christoph Wilhem macrobiotics education centre Beans Grain Hufeland then outlined the that Michio Kushi set up Nuts Fish concept of macrobiotics in in Massachusetts, is Fruit his book, Macrobiotics: Indian Tea considered one of the Tomatoes The Art of Prolonging focal points Slow Saute Cooked Human Life. Life of research on Oil Boiled Stewed Chicken Hufeland this diet. Pressure Steamed Cooked understood

Honey Spices

Sugar Milk Coffee

Grilled

Raw

Meats Barbecued

Microwave Drugs Antibiotics

YIN

Cheese Eggs

Baked

Juicing

Pickled

Frozen

Balance in Foods and Cooking Styles

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Salt

YANG

WorldMags.net The macrobiotic diet is influenced by the Far Eastern philosophy that every living thing has a life force (known as ‘prana’ prana’ in Indian philosophy and ‘qui’ in Oriental philosophy). This life force translates into two polarities — yin and yang. Yin foods (such as melons, cucumbers, watermelons, bananas, pears and broccoli) are considered cooling to the body while yang foods (such as chillies, red and green peppers, coffee, garlic and onions) are believed to have a heat-producing quality. For the body to remain ailment-free, both these energies need to be perfectly balanced. The macrobiotic diet is primarily based on the concept of yin and yang and aims to achieve a balance between the energies of various foods. In simpler terms, macrobiotics is all about choosing the right foods and cooking methods and putting them into practice. The diet emphasises simpler eating habits, eating local and seasonal foods, avoiding processed and genetically modified foods and minimising the consumption of animal foods, dairy products and alcohol. The diet recommends eating vegetables (especially leafy green vegetables and sea vegetables), whole grains, beans / legumes and good quality fermented foods and fruits. Foods are cooked in cold-pressed oils, and seasoned with sea salt. Dairy is replaced with brown rice milk, or milk made from nuts and seeds (such as almond milk, pumpkin seed milk and cashew milk) and yoghurt and buttermilk are made out of these milks also. It emphasises foods that are low on the glycaemic index and aspires to strike a balance between acid and alkaline-forming foods. It also brings into play the use of foods that act as natural mood boosters, stimulating the production of neuro-transmitters such as serotonin, dopamine and norepinephrine. What sets macrobiotics apart from other dietary approaches is the use of specific cooking techniques. One such

Photograph © LENA KOLLER:JOHNÉR IMAGES:CORBIS

SO WHAT IS A MACROBIOTIC DIET?

style is nishime or waterless cooking. A heavy cast iron pan is used to cook vegetables in their own juices, with as little as 1 tbsp of water for a cup of vegetables. In this method, the vegetables are allowed to cook in their own steam. It is believed that this style of cooking helps to achieve a perfect balance between yin and yang. Another technique that is used is fermentation. For instance, a vegetable is shredded and then pressed with sea salt for up to an hour, which is sufficient time for fermentation. Using a combination of cooking styles such as fermentation, sautéeing, boiling and blanching in one meal is emphasised, to allow the eater to take away different energies from a single meal. Since Indian cuisine is quite heavily based on whole grains and vegetables, adopting the macrobiotic diet does not call for a drastic change in eating habits. With only a few readjustments, it is possible to follow macrobiotic principles.

BOTH SIDES OF THE COIN So should you go ahead and embrace macrobiotic principles? Some nutritionists believe that following

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the principles very strictly and excluding a number of foods such as dairy and animal products could lead to nutritional deficiencies such as a lack of proteins and vitamin B12, both found abundantly in animal products. Macrobiotic advocates insist that nightshade vegetables (broadly, these include vegetables that belong to the potato family, such as tomatoes, potatoes, aubergine, capsicum and okra) should be consumed minimally. However, such dietary restrictions may be impractical and hard to follow, especially when considered in the Indian context. The macrobiotic diet has also been touted as a cancer-curing diet. However, while a diet rich in whole grains, legumes and vegetables and low in saturated fat and red meat has been shown to help prevent several forms of cancer, there is not enough clinically proven evidence to suggest that the diet can be considered a cure for cancer. Before deciding to adopt it, it is important to evaluate your own health condition and your dietary needs and to also follow the guidance of a trained professional who may be able to help you make the most balanced choices when it comes to your diet.

BACK TO BASICS The macrobiotic diet consists of: Whole grains 40-50 per cent Seasonal vegetables 25 per cent Protein-rich foods (such as legumes and fish) 10 per cent Soups and good quality fermented foods 5 per cent Sea vegetables (such as kombu, hijiki and arame or spirulina in the Indian context) 5 per cent Fruits, nuts and seeds 5 per cent

Shonali Sabherwal is a Macrobiotic Health Counsellor and chef certified by the Kushi Institute in Massachusetts. Visit soulfoodbysonali.com for details.

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Sous vide Get a taste of the future of food with  sous vide, a refined version of boil-in-the-bag cooking Words and recipe ALEX SANCHEZ Illustration SVABHU KOHLI

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he idea of sous vide originated in the 1940s, when commercial foods were first vacuum-packed as a way to preserve their freshness. It wasn’t until the 1970s, however, that sous vide cooking came to fruition. Jean Troisgros, the French three-star Michelin chef, discovered that he could maximise the yield of foie gras — a notoriously expensive ingredient — by wrapping it in layers of plastic and cooking it in below-simmering water. He had unlocked the potential of sous vide cooking. From that point onward, some of the most highly regarded chefs from around the world began to discover the benefits of sous vide.

WHAT IS SOUS VIDE? Sous vide, a term that means ‘under vacuum’ in French, is the first and only cooking method that provides precise control of the temperature at which food is cooked. In essence, it is a more refined version of boilin-a-bag cooking. The two-step process involves sealing food in a bag with a vacuum sealer, and then cooking the sealed food in a temperature-controlled water bath. An immersion circulator (used to control the water temperature) acts as a thermometer, heater, and water pump, allowing the water to maintain an accurate and consistent temperature over an extended period of time.

THE UPSIDE Sous vide has opened up an entirely new realm of possibilities

and conveniences in the kitchen. When foods are cooked at a precise temperature, there is less room for human error. The texture of the product can be manipulated with exacting results: vegetables cooked perfectly al dente; meats cooked medium-rare; eggs prepared to a custard-like consistency. Cooking items in a sealed bag helps retain more moisture and flavour, since the aromas and juices of the ingredients are trapped within the bag. The greatest advantage of sous vide is its ability to transform cheap, tough cuts of meat into something delicate and moist. Traditionally, tougher meats are cooked over a long period of time, which breaks down connective tissue and gives the meat its fall-apart-tender quality. The downside to the traditional method is that the higher cooking temperatures at which the meat is cooked (typically between 120°C and 150°C) simultaneously squeeze the juices from the meat fibres, rendering the meat flaky and dry. With sous vide, the meat is cooked over long durations (sometimes as long as three days) at low enough temperatures to preserve the meat’s natural juices while also breaking down the chewy connective tissue. The result? Perfectly tender and juicy meat.

THE DOWNSIDE While many pathogens cannot survive in sous vide’s oxygen-free environment, you can never be too concerned about Salmonella, E. Coli, Botulism and Listeria.

However, by following a few simple steps, you can avoid any infection. Firstly, all foods should be fresh and completely chilled (not frozen) before they are vacuum-sealed. When cooking between 4°C and 58°C (a temperature range where bacteria thrive, known as the ‘danger zone’), food should remain in the water bath for no more than four hours to prevent excessive bacterial growth. Once cooked, the food must either be served immediately or chilled to 1°C in a water bath containing at least 50 per cent ice. Lastly, if you wish to store the food, it must be done so at a minimum of 3°C to significantly hinder any bacterial growth.

WHERE TO BUY Polyscience, a leading manufacturer in cooking appliance technology, offers a range of equipment necessary for cooking sous vide. These products are easily accessible through Aksai (aksai.co), India’s only Polyscience distributor.

Chicken Adobo Serves 4 n 1 hour 30 minutes + overnight refrigeration n EASY canola oil 2 tbsp, garlic cloves 2, minced, white onions 2 medium, peeled and sliced, chicken thighs 1kg, boneless, skinless, soy sauce 1/4 cup, white vinegar 1/4 cup, water 1/2 cup, bay leaves 2, black peppercorns 1/2 tsp, crushed n Heat oil in a small pan and sauté onions until soft and golden brown. Add minced garlic and cook for 30 seconds while stirring. Transfer to a plate to cool. n Combine the cooled onion and garlic mixture with all remaining ingredients in a food-grade plastic bag and vacuum seal at high pressure. n Refrigerate overnight or for at least 4 hours. n Set the immersion circulator to 66°C and allow the water bath to come up to temperature. n Completely submerge the bag of marinated chicken into the water bath and cook for 1 hour. (If the bag floats, it contains air and must be resealed properly.) n Remove the bag from the water bath and empty its contents and juice, over freshly steamed jasmine rice.

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need to know books

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books & cooks Dig into this month’s foodie books Words MEHER MIRZA

Make your own Pickles and Chutneys This little book is a compendium of, well, pickle and chutneymaking recipes. It comes in a box together with string, elastic bands, labels and jar tops. We loved the Pickled walnuts sandwiched between dollops of Camembert and arugula in our salad. We also tried our hand at Picalillli, the crunchy and spicy British pickle that went a long way in perking up a simple cheese sandwich. But the standout recipe? It’s the one for Iranian pickled vegetables, torshi. Available from Octopus Books for ` 595

Picalilli Recipe and image courtesy MAKE YOUR OWN PICKLES AND CHUTNEYS, Octopus Books

Makes 2-3 jars n 1 hour + standing n MODERATELY EASY cauliflower 1 small, cucumber 1/2, onions 2, carrots 2, salt 50g, plain flour 2 tbsp, cider vinegar 300ml, granulated sugar 225g, turmeric 1/2 tsp, ground ginger 3 tsp, English mustard powder 2 tsp, freshly ground black pepper to taste n Trim the outer leaves from the cauliflower and break it into small florets, discarding any large stalks. Thinly peel and roughly chop the cucumber. Chop the onions and cut

Curry Bible This beautiful book, lovingly stained by curry splatters thanks to our attempts in the kitchen, is sure to lift your mood. The Indian food recipes by Mridula Baljekar, have all the usual suspects — Chicken korma, Rogan josh etc, so we tried out the South East Asian ones; piquant chilli prawns with garlic noodles, Vietnamese veggie curry (delicious) and a very wholesome Penang fish curry. My only criticism is that the book loosely groups dry dishes such as Tandoori chicken with traditional curries. Available from Parragon Publishers for ` 595 the carrots into medium chunks. Place all the prepared vegetables in layers in a large bowl, sprinkling each layer with salt, and leave them to stand overnight. Lightly rinse and thoroughly dry them. n Mix the flour to a smooth cream with a little of the vinegar.

Vegan Indian Cooking: 140 Simple and Healthy Vegan Recipes – Anupy Singla There hasn’t yet been a book that focusses on vegan Indian cooking. But with her latest book, Anupy Singla wishes to redress that balance. From Chickpea poppers to Lemon brown rice, this book attempts to bring vegan Indian cooking up to date. Singla injects traditionally fatty foods with a hefty dose of health — samosas are baked and dosas are made from brown rice, proving that not all Indian food is fattening. Available from Agate Publishers for ` 1,167 Heat the remaining vinegar in a preserving pan with the sugar, spices and mustard, stirring until the sugar has dissolved. Bring to the boil, season the mixture generously with pepper and add the vegetables. Return it to the boil, then reduce the heat and simmer, uncovered for 10 minutes. n Remove the pan from the heat and gradually stir in the flour mixture. Return it to the heat, bring the pickle to the boil and cook it gently for a further 5 minutes. Transfer the picalilli to warm, dry jars, cover with screwtop lids and label. Picalilli is ready to eat as soon as it is made.

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India: A Culinary Journey Prem Souri Kishore Food writing is very frequently, not just about food. Take Prem Souri Kishore’s book on Indian culinary traditions for example; Kishore is a well-travelled author and lecturer and hers is a wellwritten book, with easy recipes. But the book is so much more than that. Kishore tempers her recipes with writing about India’s cultural traditions, regional cuisines, even dress and religion, adding a few personal anecdotes about her life in India with her mother and grandmother. A must-have for one who is just venturing into Indian cooking. Available from Hippocrene Books for ` 2,284 Fear of Food – Harvey Levenstein Today, we’re all awash in a sea of confusing nutritional information; are eggs good or bad for health? Is red wine good for my heart or bad for the liver? Should we be consuming multivitamins? Food historian Levenstein, in his engaging and well-researched book, explores many of our food issues, ranging from vitamin-fortified foods to the craze for germ warfare, going on to say that he will regard his book as a success “if he can help lessen even a few people’s anxieties and increase the pleasure they get from eating.” Available from University of Chicago Press for ` 1,463 You can buy this month’s books online at flipkart.com and landmarkonthenet.com.

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What’s on

Tune in to this month’s best food TV ON THE PLATE NIGEL SLATER’S SIMPLE COOKING

TV TASTING

Popular British chef Nigel Slater’s new show is all about great food pairings. He explores the principles behind innovative and classic food marriages such as lamb and feta. This translates into dishes like Spicy Tomato Stew with Yoghurt and Trout with Parma Ham. Get a taste of Slater’s signature style with this recipe.

NIGEL SLATER

Coconut chilli chicken Serves 4 n 30 minutes n MODERATELY EASY lemongrass 3 plump stalks, ginger 50g, peeled and chopped finely, red chillies 2, chopped, garlic cloves 2, peeled, coriander a bunch, roughly chopped, limes 2, zest and juice, groundnut oil 2 tbsp, tomatoes 200g, fish sauce 2 tbsp, dark soy sauce 2 tbsp, chicken thighs 8, coconut milk 400ml, apricots 8, halved n Peel and discard the outer leaves of the lemongrass. Cut the inner leaves into short lengths and put in a food processor, along with ginger, garlic cloves and chillies. n Add the stems and leaves of half the coriander, along with the lime zest. Chop the mixture into a coarse paste. n Add a little groundnut oil and scrape the sides down with a spatula if it sticks. Add the fish sauce, soy sauce and the tomatoes and process for a few seconds longer. n Warm a tablespoon of groundnut oil in a deep pan over moderate to high heat and brown the chicken pieces on both sides. Lift the chicken pieces out and pour away anything more than a tablespoon of oil and juices. n Add the spice paste and let it fry over a moderate heat for 2 minutes till fragrant, stirring almost constantly, then return the chicken to the pan. Pour over the coconut milk, stir, cover and leave to simmer over a low heat for 15-20 minutes. n Test the chicken making certain it’s cooked all the way through, then add the apricots. Leave to simmer for a few minutes, then add the lime juice and the reserved coriander. Nigel Slater’s Simple Cooking goes on air on October 24 at 12 pm on BBC Entertainment.

need to know food shows

TASTE TEST FIRANGI TADKA

Firangi Tadka is a show that helps you recreate exotic recipes using local ingredients and simplifies complicated techniques for the home cook. Anchor and chef Shilarna Vaze, who trained at the Le Cordon Bleu in Paris, tells us more about her food philosophy. TELL US A LITTLE BIT ABOUT FIRANGI TADKA. My show is all about making international food simple and approachable to the average Indian housewife. You don’t need to spend a bomb on storebought mayonnaise, pasta or curry pastes — you can just make them yourself! HOW DID YOUR TRAINING AT LE CORDON BLEU INFLUENCE YOUR COOKING STYLE? The French take their food very seriously, so you get proper training in technique and quality control. They use the best ingredients possible and this has influenced me deeply, along with their plating styles. THE BEST FRENCH FOOD YOU HAVE HAD AND WOULD RECOMMEND TO OUR READERS? The most elaborate food experience I’ve had was at Chef Paul Bocuse’s eponymous three Michelin-starred restaurant in Lyon. There were five courses – foie gras, veal, fish with potato scales, an incredible cheese course and mind-blowing dessert. The highlight was when Paul Bocuse came to our table and gave me a personal tour of the kitchen after I told him I was in cooking school. It was like meeting Brad Pitt! ONE FRENCH DISH YOU CONSIDER A TIMELESS CLASSIC? Fish in beurre blanc (or a white wine and butter-based sauce) is one of my favourites, and so is steak with morel sauce. Firangi Tadka airs from Monday to Wednesday at 1.30 pm on Food Food channel.

SNAPSHOT COME DINE WITH ME

One person’s cooking style can be another’s worst nightmare — and this is the entertaining premise of Come Dine With Me. The award-winning series revolves around five amateur chefs who compete for a cash prize of GBP 1,000 (approximately ` 86,000) and title of the ‘ultimate dinner party host’. In each episode, a different group of contestants hosts dinner parties over the span of a week and rate each other’s performances. Even as confident contestants show off their culinary expertise, there are inevitable clashes and fireworks. Insults are traded, contestants snoop around each other’s houses and criticism is doled out. However what sets this show apart is the unseen narrator’s tongue-in-cheek commentary, which has liberal doses of pithy British humour. Come Dine With Me airs on weekdays at 6 pm on BBC Entertainment.

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Now’s the time to…

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eat in

Pears in season

Apples in season

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Hit the sweet spot Kick off the upcoming festive season with our inspired chocolate treats, which also make for elegant and thoughtful gifts. From nutty truffles to almond biscotti, find recipes for the perfect gift box on p 104. Learn to make the most of the delicious and crisp apples flooding markets this October with our stylish recipes featured on p 72.

55 pages of recipes from seasonal apple treats and stylish chocolate gifts to feast-worthy Pakistani dishes Pasta Genovese

Host in style Get acquainted with the sophisticated flavours of Pakistani cooking with the elegant Pakistani menu featured in Weekend on p 96. Now that there are such a wide variety of mushrooms available in our markets, learn how to use them in versatile ways with Chef Gresham Fernandes’ menu on p 86. And on p 78, we tell you how ubiquitous masoor dal (or puy lentils) lends itself beautifully to nutritious and flavourful salads.

71 78

Modern masoor dishes

Veggie delights

EVERYE RECIPETRIPLED TEST

Be a gastro nerd Ever wondered what causes a perfect cheese soufflé to puff delicately and become airy? Why does frying an egg too long cause it to become rubbery? Find answers to these questions with food writer Harold McGee’s books On Science and Cooking and Keys to Good Cooking. McGee uncovers the chemical changes that cause food to cook and taste a certain way. Armed with his in-depth kitchen wisdom, cooking mindfully will get that much easier. Both books are available online at flipkart.com

plus T Quick and easy lunchbox ideas p 62 T Ready in 30 minute meals p 64

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54 88 76

Tuna tartare fishcakes

Glazed apple tart Crisp pork in lettuce cups

7

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Plan a week’s worth of stylish budget meals from around the world

INGREDIENTS CHECKLIST SHOPPING BASKET

vegetable stock 300ml tartare sauce 30g spring onions 2 stalks tuna 185g egg 1 salad leaves a handful French fries 100g couscous 200g dried apricots 4 pine nuts 12g flat-leaf parsley a bunch chicken breast fillets 2, large lean minced lamb 250g chicken stock 275ml coriander a bunch spaghetti 200g Parmesan cheese 35g beef 375g beef stock 500ml spinach 50g coconut milk 200ml parwal 3 baby brinjals 3 fresh coconut 1/2 cup lime juice 1 tsp

STORE CUPBOARD onion carrots olive oil chilli flakes garlic cloves cumin seeds puy lentils

MONDAY Tomato, lentil and lime soup

TUESDAY Tuna tartare fishcakes Serves 2 n 40 minutes n EASY

Serves 2 n 30 minutes n EASY tomatoes lime flour breadcrumbs Moroccan spice mix red onion ginger ground cumin ground cinnamon butter black pepper allspice cinnamon cloves red chilli thyme sweet potatoes baby potatoes rice arhar dal ghee asafoetida (hing) turmeric salt baby onions coriander-cumin (dhania-jeera) powder green chilli and ginger paste sugar crusty bread

onion 1, roughly chopped carrot 1 large, peeled and grated olive oil 1 tbsp chilli flakes a pinch (optional) cumin seeds 1 tsp puy lentils (masoor dal) 3 tbsp tomatoes 400g, chopped vegetable stock 300ml REALLY REALLY lime 1, juiced and zested EASY crusty bread to serve n Cook the onion and carrot in olive oil until softened then add the chilli flakes (if using) and cumin. Cook for a minute then tip in the lentils, tomato and stock. n Cook for 20 minutes until the lentils are soft. Blitz briefly with a stick blender so you have a semismooth texture, then stir in the lime juice and zest. n PER SERVING 174 kcals, protein 9.3g, carbs 28.3g, fat 3g, sat fat 0.3g, fibre 5.6g, salt 0.7g

`69

.5 TOTAL9 F O 7 MEALSR WorldMags.net

potatoes 300g tartare sauce 2 tbsp + extra to serve (try Heinz available at gourmet stores) spring onions 2, finely chopped salt and pepper to season tuna 185g tin, drained and flaked (try John West available at gourmet stores) plain flour to dust egg 1, beaten breadcrumbs 50g olive oil 1 tbsp green salad leaves to serve French fries to serve n Boil the potatoes until tender then cool and scoop out the flesh into a bowl. Mash in the tartare sauce and spring onions and season with salt and pepper, then mix in the tuna. Form into 4 cakes and dust each with a little flour. Dip in egg and coat in breadcrumbs, then chill for 15 minutes. n Heat the olive oil in a non-stick frying pan, then add the fishcakes and cook for 3-4 minutes a side until crisp and golden. Serve with salad, chips and extra tartare sauce. n PER SERVING 469 kcals, protein 28.8g, carbs 50g, fat 18.5g, sat fat 2.5g, fibre 2.7g, salt 1.42g

Recipe JANINE RATCLIFFE Photograph GARETH MORGANS Styling ARABELLA MCNIE Food styling JENNIFER JOYCE

Photograph DAVID MUNNS

meals for `700

Recipe JANINE RATCLIFFE Photograph MYLES NEW Styling JENNY IGGLEDDEN Food styling JENNIFER JOYCE

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eat in everyday

Great way to use up leftover mash

WorldMags.net VEG IT by mixing the couscous mixture with 50g crumbled feta and spoon into 4 Portobello mushrooms. Drizzle 1 tbsp oil and bake for 20 minutes. Serve with tzatziki.

THURSDAY Moroccan meatballs with herb couscous Serves 2 n 1 hour n EASY lean minced lamb 250g red onion 1/2, grated garlic clove 1, crushed root ginger 1cm chunk, grated dried chilli flakes a pinch cumin powder 1 tsp cinnamon powder 1/2 tsp olive oil 1 tbsp cherry tomatoes 400g chicken stock 100ml coriander 1/2 bunch, chopped

WEDNESDAY Moroccan stuffed chicken Serves 2 n 30 minutes n EASY couscous 25g (try Roland available at gourmet stores) Moroccan spice mix 1/2 tsp (try Al Fez available at gourmet stores) dried apricots 4, chopped pine nuts 1 tbsp (optional) flat-leaf parsley a small bunch, chopped chicken breast fillets 2, large, skinless olive oil 1 tbsp

n Put the couscous and spice mix in a small heatproof bowl and pour over 30ml hot water. Cover and set aside for 5 minutes. Fluff the grains up with a fork, then stir in the apricots, pine nuts and parsley. Season with salt and pepper. n Heat oven to 190°C. Make a large slit down one side of each chicken breast to form a pocket. Stuff the couscous mixture inside, then sit the chicken in a small roasting tin. Brush over the oil and roast for 20 minutes until cooked through. Serve with roasted baby potatoes and a crisp green salad if you like. n PER SERVING 317 kcals, protein 41g, carbs 14g, fat 11g, sat fat 2g, fibre 2g, sugar 8g, salt 0.26g

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n Put the lamb, onion, half the garlic, half the ginger and half the spices in a bowl and season well. Mix and form into little meatballs (around 15). n Heat 1 tbsp olive oil in a large nonstick pan and add the meatballs in batches, frying until browned all over. Scoop out, then add the rest of the garlic, ginger and spices and cook for 2 minutes. Add the tomatoes and stock and season. n Simmer for 10 minutes, then add back the meatballs and cook for another 20 minutes until the sauce is thickened. n Stir in the coriander. n To make the couscous, put in a bowl with the butter and some seasoning. Pour over the chicken stock and cover with cling-film. n Leave for 10 minutes. Stir the herbs through and serve with meatballs. n PER SERVING 544 kcals, protein 30.2g, carbs 36.7g, fat 31.7g, sat fat 15.2g, fibre 2g, salt 1.67g

Recipe JANINE RATCLIFFE Photograph GARETH MORGANS Styling RACHEL JUKES Food styling JENNY WHITE

THE HERB COUSCOUS couscous 100g (try Tipiak available at gourmet stores) butter 25g chicken stock 175ml, boiling coriander 1/2 bunch, chopped parsley 1/2 bunch, chopped

Recipe JANINE RATCLIFFE Photograph PETER CASSIDY Styling RACHEL JUKES Food styling JENNY WHITE

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eat in everyday

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SATURDAY Jamaican pepper pot

This has to be the simplest pasta ever. You can increase the pepper if you like it spicy, but this amount is a good starting point.

FRIDAY Spaghetti with Parmesan and black pepper Serves 2 n 20 minutes n EASY spaghetti 200g olive oil 2 tbsp butter 1 tbsp black pepper 1 tsp, ground Parmesan 35g, finely grated (try Zanetti available at gourmet stores)

wide shallow pan with the pepper, then heat until melted. n Cook for a minute, then tip in the spaghetti and 2 tbsp cooking water. Stir a few times, then add the cheese and another 2 tbsp water and toss together. The water, cheese and butter comes together to make a creamy sauce, so add a splash more water if you need to. Serve with more Parmesan, if you like. n PER SERVING 644 kcals, protein 21.3g, carbs 75.8g, fat 30.6g, sat fat 13g, fibre 2.9g, salt 0.71g

n Cook the spaghetti in lots of boiling salted water until just tender. Drain, saving a cupful of the cooking water. Meanwhile put olive oil and butter in a

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beef or lamb 375g beef or lamb stock 500ml onion 1 large, sliced garlic clove 1, sliced ginger a large chunk, peeled and cut into matchsticks bay leaf 1 allspice powder 1 tsp cinnamon 1/2 stick cloves 2 red chilli 1, seeded and finely chopped coconut milk 200ml thyme 2 sprigs sweet potato 1, peeled and cut into large chunks baby potatoes 2, peeled and cut into large chunks spinach 50g, chopped crusty bread to serve butter to serve n Put the first 9 ingredients in a large pot then season with salt and pepper. Simmer gently for 30 minutes uncovered, skimming off any residue that comes on the surface. n Add the chilli, coconut milk and thyme then cook for 1 hour. Add the potatoes and cook for another 1/2 hour. Add the spinach and simmer for about 10 minutes. Serve with crusty bread. n PER SERVING 676 kcals, protein 49.8g, carbs 46.1g, fat 33.8g, sat fat 21g, fibre 5.5g, salt 1.36g

Recipe JANINE RATCLIFFE Photograph MYLES NEW Styling JENNY IGGLEDDEN Food styling JENNIFER JOYCE

Serves 2 n 2 1/2 hours n EASY

Recipe JANINE RATCLIFFE Photograph MYLES NEW Styling JENNY IGGLEDDEN Food styling JENNIFER JOYCE

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eat in everyday

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SUNDAY Sambhariya khichdi Serves 2 n 30 minutes + prep n MODERATELY EASY

Recipe PINKY CHANDAN DIXIT rice 1/2 cup arhar dal 1/2 cup ghee 1 tbsp cumin seeds a pinch clove 1 cinnamon 1/2 a stick asafoetida (hing) a pinch turmeric powder a pinch THE SAMBHARIYA VEGETABLES baby onions 3, peeled and slit crisscross baby potatoes 3, peeled and slit crisscross parwal 3, slit sideways, scooping out the inside baby brinjals 3, slit crisscross THE FILLING fresh coconut 1/2 cup, grated coriander a bunch, chopped coriander-cumin (dhania-jeera) powder 1 1/2 tsp turmeric powder a pinch green chilli and ginger paste 1/2 tbsp sugar 1 tsp lime juice 1 tsp salt to taste

FOR A LIST OF STORES THAT STOCK GOURMET INGREDIENTS, TURN TO P 153

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n Wash and soak the rice and dal in warm water separately for at least 30 minutes and then drain. Stuff the filling into the slit vegetables and keep aside. n Heat the ghee in a pressure cooker, add the cumin seeds, cloves and cinnamon. Allow the cumin to crackle and then add the asafoetida. Add the soaked dal and 1/2 cup of water, turmeric and salt and bring to a boil. Simmer the dal for about 10 minutes till it’s about half cooked. Gently add the rice and top it up with approximately 1 1/2 cups of hot water. n Top this with the stuffed vegetables and pressure cook for about 3 whistles over a slow flame. Allow the steam to escape and open the cooker. n Serve the khichdi with a minty cucumber raita or dahi kadhi. n PER SERVING 372.25 kcals, protein 9.34g, carbs 72.93g, fat 5.28g, sat fat 3.04g, fibre 9.60g, salt 0.1g

Photograph BHARAT BHIRANGI Styling and food styling NEETI MEHRA

eat in everyday

Advertorial

Borosil

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COTTAGE CHEESE PIE

Serves 4 30 minutes EASY V French beans 150g, cut into 1 cm long pieces carrots 150g, finely sliced celery 2 sticks, chopped butter 2 tbsp spring onions 4, finely chopped mushrooms 200g, sliced cornflour 4 tbsp milk 1 cup paneer 750g, cut into 1 cm cubes shortcrust pastry (recipe below) sugar 1/2 tsp, dissolved in a little water salt and pepper to taste

kitchen

FOR THE SHORTCRUST PASTRY flour 200g cornflour 1 tbsp butter 100g, chilled and cut into cubes salt to taste

n To make the pastry, sieve the flour,

corn flour and salt together. Lightly rub in the butter with your fingertips. Slowly add the cold water as required and mix to a smooth dough. Cover the dough and refrigerate for 30 minutes. n Parboil the first three vegetables with

a little water and reserve the stock for later use. Heat butter in a pan and fry the spring onions till translucent. Add the mushrooms and paneer, fry lightly for about two minutes. Add salt and pepper just before removing from heat. n Mix the cornflour in the milk and stir

over low heat till it forms a smooth paste. Add seasoning to taste and vegetable stock reserved earlier.

Mix well and keep aside. Mix the parboiled vegetables, fried mushrooms and spring onions and paneer cubes well. Add the cornflour paste and mix well. Check seasoning. n Grease a deep pie Borosil dish. Pour

the vegetables-cornflour paste mixture

into it. Remove from the refrigerator and roll out the dough on a floured surface to a 1/2 cm thick chapatti to suit the shape of the pie dish. Place the pastry over the pie dish and lightly press the edges to seal the dish. Trim the excess pastry. Brush the top with sugar solution. Bake at 200°C for 35 minutes till brown and done.

Send your favourite continental recipe and you could win a

Gift Hamper courtesy

Borosil's range of Microwavables product are made of special borosilicate glass, which help ensure fresher, healthier cooking. Cooking in glass requires less oil, less salt and retains more essential nutrients. Borosil Microwavables can withstand temperatures upto 300°C, and unlike plastic, do not leech chemicals into food when heated. Our products stay odorless and stain free. The entire Microwavables range is fridge and freezer safe, making it easy to cook and store food. Borosil. Because nothing less will do.

Send in your recipe, age and address to BBC Good Food, Worldwide Media, Response 2nd floor, Times of India Building, Dr D N Road, WorldMags.net Fort, Mumbai - 400001, you can also mail your entries to [email protected]

Lighter

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lunchboxes

These healthy recipes are perfect for busy office lunchtimes Lemony three bean and feta salad

Carrot and cumin burgers Serves 4 n 30 minutes + chilling n EASY

Serves 3 n 20 minutes n EASY Recipe SARAH COOK Cook 200g green beans and 200g edamame beans together in a pan of boiling water for 3 minutes until tender. Drain and cool under cold running water, then drain again and mix with 400g canned cannellini beans and 1/2 red onion, finely chopped. Add the juice of 1 lemon, pinch of caster sugar, 1 tsp poppy seeds and seasoning and stir through. Scatter 85g feta on top, then divide and pack into lunchboxes. n PER SERVING 318 kcals, protein 23g, carbs 31g, fat 12g, sat fat 5g, fibre 7g, sugar 7g, salt 1.7g

Recipe ALLY BRIGHT In a bowl, combine 300g grated carrot, 2 tbsp tahini and 1/2 onion, grated. Blend 200g boiled chickpeas in a food processor and add to the carrot mix with 1 beaten egg, 50g breadcrumbs, 1 tsp ground cumin, zest 1 lemon and seasoning. Mix well and form into 4 burgers. Coat burgers in 1 tbsp cumin seeds. Chill in the fridge for about 30 minutes. Heat 2 tsp vegetable oil in a pan. Cook the burgers for 4 minutes each side, turning carefully. n PER SERVING 166 kcals, protein 7g, carbs 15g, fat 9g, sat fat 1g, fibre 4g, sugar 5g, salt 0.5g

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Spicy stir-fried cauliflower Serves 4 n 30 minutes n EASY Recipe ADAM RUSSELL Heat 2 tbsp vegetable oil in a large pan or wok with a lid. Add a thumbsized piece of ginger, finely chopped, 1 tsp chilli flakes, 1 tbsp cumin seeds and 1 tsp turmeric. Cook until spices are fragrant. Reduce heat and stir in 1 cauliflower, broken into florets, then season. Turn down the heat, put on the lid and gently cook for 10 minutes or until softened. Sprinkle over a small bunch of chopped coriander before serving. n PER SERVING 102 kcals, protein 6g, carbs 5g, fat 7g, sat fat 1g, fibre 3g, sugar 4g, salt 0.1g

Photograph LIS PARSONS Styling TONY HUTCHINSON Food styling LIZZIE HARRIS

eat in lunchbox

PROMOTION

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Morphy Richards’ latest food processor

M

orphy Richards, a pioneer in household appliances in Europe, has launched its latest innovative kitchen appliance ‘Enrico’ in India. Enrico is a cutting-edge food processer, that offers seamless food processing, through 20 unique food processing functions. Enrico additionally offers a range of blades and attachments that are crafted for more specific food processing requirements. Enrico’s 20 different food processing functions include: blending, crushing, wet grinding, mixing, liquidizing, citrus juicing, centifrugal juicing, chopping, whisking, fine shredding, coarse shredding, fine slicing, coarse slicing, mincing, pureeing, kneading, cocunut shredding, chipping, shelling and grating.

The product comes equipped with special processing blades required for more specific functions like shredding, slicing, french fry cutting and chopping. The attachments include Whisking Blade, Centrifugal Juicer, Citrus Juicer, Unique Blade Storage, Atta Kneader and Blade holder. The product also comes with a unique disc rack, worth Rs.499/-, to easily store all the blades and their holders. Mophy Richards has introduced Enrico as a premium food processing appliance offering best-in-class technology and design, ensuring ease-of-use and superior functionality. The product is priced at Rs. 9,995/and available at all Morphy Richards retailers across India.

Foodesto.com: Fab online food shopping

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oodies in Mumbai, rejoice! The quest for gourmet food just got easier and you don’t even have to step outside your door to get it. Whether you’re shopping for gourmet foods or want to go organic or are looking for artisanal food, Foodesto.com is your one-stop solution. Created as a fine food solution for the upscale urban household, Foodesto. com has an impressive list of exciting and high-quality food and food-related products from the best international and Indian brands. With over 1,500 products from more than 130 international & Indian brands, and growing, customers will find exactly what they are looking for and discover something new in the bargain. Whether they’re shopping for gourmet foods or want to go organic or are looking for artisanal food, Foodesto.com is their one-stop solution. Tarun Khanna, co-founder, says, “Foodesto.com takes

care of the needs of the time-starved, upscale homemaker who’s short on time but is keen to ensure that her family consumes the best.” Foodesto offers an impressive array of Indian organic and natural dry goods. Tie-ups with Fabindia, Down to Earth, 24 Letter Mantra, Nourish Organics and Conscious Foods, enable it to serve up an impressive assortment. A first from Foodesto is the cold chain that enables them to deliver fresh bread, desserts, condiments, cold cuts, cheese and more to the customer’s doorstep. The products are sourced daily from Mumbai’s popular outlets, Moshe’s and Santé’s Delicatessen, Bandra West. The website also focusses on gluten-free products and other special dietary needs. To complete the ‘foodie’ experience, the website also has high quality kitchen tools, dining aids and some cool crockery. Since Foodesto has only tied up with

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licensed importers and producers, customers can be reassured that that the products they buy are authentic and of high quality. Pankaj Chandra, co-founder, said, “Foodesto is very concerned about ensuring a happy experience for customers. We have worked very hard towards creating bestin-class delivery and fulfillment through a dedicated and trained delivery team. We are very sensitive towards dietary choices and have segregated areas for vegetarian and non-vegetarian deli products. Moreover, our cold chain ensures that no temperature abuse takes place during the delivery and products are cold when received”. The easy-to-use website means people can quickly find the product they want. Customers on the go can also order from a simple-to-use mobile site accessible through smartphones or tablets. Those who want a personalised experience can call +91 22 67989876.

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Ready in 30

Speedy dinners from Monday to Friday simmer and cook for about 3 minutes, seasoning well. n Meanwhile, fry the bacon in a non-stick pan until it crisps up — you shouldn’t have to add any more oil. Drain on kitchen paper. n You can leave the soup chunky or whizz it until smooth. Sprinkle with the bacon, if using, to serve. n PER SERVING 171 kcals, protein 9.9g, carbs 13g, fat 9.2g, sat fat 2.1g

Recipe LULU GRIMES Photograph JEAN CAZALS Styling SUE ROWLANDS Food styling ALICE HART

Rice noodles with hoisin lamb

VEG IT by substituting the chicken with veggie stock and leave out the bacon.

Very green soup Serves 2 n 20 minutes n EASY onion 1, finely chopped oil 1 tbsp garlic clove 1, crushed zucchini 2, shredded or grated cabbage 1/4, core removed and shredded spinach 2 large handfuls, roughly chopped

vegetable or chicken stock fresh, cubed or concentrate, made up to 750ml streaky bacon 1 thin-cut rasher, chopped (optional) n Fry the onion in oil for 5 minutes or until soft, then add the garlic and fry for 30 seconds. Add the zucchini and stir properly. Next, put in the cabbage, spinach and stock. Bring to a

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rice noodles 125g (try Real Thai available at gourmet stores) lamb 6 chops, fat trimmed hoisin sauce 1 tbsp (try Ayam available at gourmet stores) cucumber 1/2 sesame oil 1 tsp rice vinegar or white wine vinegar 1 tbsp (try Blue Elephant available at gourmet stores) red chilli 1, shredded mint leaves a small bunch n Soak the rice noodles following the packet instructions then rinse with cold water and drain. Brush the lamb cutlets with the hoisin sauce. Cut the cucumber into ribbons using a peeler or sharp knife. Mix with the rice noodles and remaining ingredients. Grill the lamb for 10 minutes on each side or until cooked through. Serve with the noodles. n PER SERVING 489 kcals, protein 19.2g, carbs 55.7g, fat 22.4g, sat fat 10.6g

Recipe LULU GRIMES Photograph JEAN CAZALS Styling SUE ROWLANDS Food styling ALICE HART

Serves 2 n 30 minutes n EASY

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eat in everyday

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Prawn and harissa stew with couscous Serves 2 n 20 minutes n EASY

Pasta with peas, Parmesan and tarragon Serves 2 n 10 minutes n EASY large pasta shells 200g peas 2 cups Parmesan 2 tbsp, grated + a few extra shavings tarragon a small bunch, chopped hung curd 4 tbsp

n Cook the pasta following the packet instructions, adding the peas for the final few minutes. Drain, leaving 2 tbsp water in with the pasta and toss with the rest of the ingredients. Season. n Serve with Parmesan shavings while the sauce is hot. If you let the pasta sit, it will soak up the sauce. n PER SERVING 501 kcals, protein 26.7g, carbs 91.7g, fat 5.6g, sat fat 2.3g, fibre 10.7g, salt 0.62g

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n Put the couscous in a bowl with 1 tbsp olive oil and cover with boiling chicken stock. Cover and leave to swell for 5 minutes. Heat the remaining oil in a pan, add the onion and garlic and fry for about 1-2 minutes or until just tender. n Add the cumin and fry for a minute, add the tomatoes and harissa and bubble everything together until it thickens slightly. Season well. n Stir in the prawns and cook for about 3 minutes, then scatter the coriander over. Serve with the couscous. n PER SERVING 337 kcals, protein 21.6g, carbs39.4g, fat 11.5g, sat fat 3g, fibre 2.5g, salt 1.58g

Recipe LULU GRIMES Photograph JEAN CAZALS Styling SUE ROWLANDS Food styling ALICE HART

couscous 100g olive oil 2 tbsp chicken stock fresh, cubed or concentrate, made up to 200ml onion 1 small, sliced garlic cloves 2, crushed cumin 1 tsp, ground tomatoes 400g, chopped harissa 1-2 tsp (try Al Fez available at gourmet stores) raw prawns 150g, peeled coriander leaves a small bunch

Recipe LULU GRIMES Photograph JEAN CAZALS Styling SUE ROWLANDS Food styling ALICE HART

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eat in everyday

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Steamed fish with lemon, ginger and chilli

Lamb, watercress and beetroot salad Serves 2 n 30 minutes n EASY beetroot 1 medium, trimmed olive oil 3 tbsp lean lamb fillet 200g watercress 100g, tough ends removed Manchego cheese 30g, shaved (available at gourmet stores) THE DRESSING dill 1 tsp, chopped capers 1 tbsp, rinsed and chopped (try Sacla available at gourmet stores) sherry vinegar 1/2 tbsp Dijon mustard 1 tsp (try Tracklements available at gourmet stores) shallot 1, finely chopped

n Heat the oven to 200°C. Thinly slice the beetroot to coin-size thickness. Drizzle with 1 tsp of oil and season. Lie flat on a non-stick baking sheet and roast for 8-10 minutes. Put to one side. Rub 1 tbsp oil on the lamb, season well and sear in a non-stick frying pan, about 10 minutes on each side. Leave to sit in the warm pan while you assemble the salad. n Arrange the watercress on 2 plates with the beetroot. Mix the dressing ingredients with 1 tbsp olive oil. Slice the lamb and divide between the salads. Drizzle over the dressing and top with the cheese. n PER SERVING 402 kcals, protein 28g, carbs 7.3g, fat 29.2g, sat fat 11.5g, fibre 2.1g, salt 1.2g

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spring onions 100g, leaves trimmed firm white fish 2 x 125g fillets lemon 1, cut into thin slices REALLY REALLY red chilli 1 small, sliced EASY ginger 1 tbsp, shredded rice vinegar 1 tbsp (try Blue Elephant available at gourmet stores) hoisin sauce 2 tbsp (try Ayam available at gourmet stores) n Put the spring onions at the bottom of two small steamer trays, or one large one. Sit the fish on top, season and top with the lemon slices, chilli and ginger. Cover with a tight-fitting lid and sit over a pan of boiling water. n Steam for 8-10 minutes (swapping the trays halfway through if using two) until the fish is opaque and cooked. Heat the vinegar and hoisin sauce in a small pan. Pour into a small bowl and serve with the fish. n PER SERVING 153 kcals, protein 25.3g, carbs 9.3g, fat 1.9g, sat fat 0.2g, fibre 2g, salt 0.74g

Recipe JENNIFER JOYCE Photograph DAVID MUNNS Styling VICTORIA ALLEN Food styling JENNIFER JOYCE

Serves 2 n 20 minutes n EASY

Recipe JENNIFER JOYCE Photograph DAVID MUNNS Styling VICTORIA ALLEN Food styling JENNIFER JOYCE

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eat in everyday

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Mushroom and brown basmati pulao

Tuna, red onion and white bean salad Serves 2 n 10 minutes n EASY olive oil 2 tbsp Dijon mustard 1 tsp (try Tracklements available at gourmet stores) juice 1/2 lemon tuna in spring water 200g, drained and flaked into chunks (try John West available at gourmet stores) cannellini beans 400g, rinsed and drained (try Epicure available at

gourmet stores) red onion 1/2, finely sliced REALLY REALLY arugula 50g

QUICK

n Whisk together the oil, mustard and lemon juice. Toss with the tuna, beans and onion and season well. Gently toss with the rocket, divide between two plates and serve. n PER SERVING 321 kcals, protein 27.6g, carbs 25.4g, fat 12.9g, sat fat 1.7g, fibre 7.4g, salt 1.66g

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garlic cloves 2, crushed onion 1 large, halved and sliced button mushrooms 250g, sliced butter 25g REALLY brown basmati rice 250g REALLY vegetable stock 500ml, hot EASY cardamom pods 4, bruised yoghurt 6 tbsp chives a small bunch, chopped n Fry the garlic, onion and mushrooms in the butter for 5 minutes. Add the rice, stock and cardamon, cover and simmer for 25 minutes or until the stock is absorbed and the rice is tender. Mix the yoghurt with chives to serve. n PER SERVING 308 kcals, protein 8.4g, carbs 54.5g, fat 7.7g, sat fat 3.9g, fibre 4.1g, salt 0.6g

Recipe JANINE RATCLIFFE Photograph SIMON WALTON Styling ROISIN NIELD Food styling LIZZIE HARRIS

Serves 4 n 30 minutes n EASY

Recipe JANINE RATCLIFFE Photograph SIMON WALTON Styling ROISIN NIELD Food styling LIZZIE HARRIS

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eat in everyday

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juicy apples everywhere! Bite into October with our quick and stylishly seasonal apple recipes. Sinning has never been more virtuous!

Spiced toffee apple cake Makes 15 squares n 45 minutes + cooking n EASY

n Heat oven to 180°C. Grease and line a 20 x 30cm baking tray with baking parchment. Put the dates and milk in a small pan and bring to a simmer. Remove from the heat and set aside for 15 minutes to cool. n Whizz the date mixture to a smooth purée in a food processer or blender, then scrape into a large mixing bowl. Tip in the butter, flour, brown sugar, baking powder, eggs, mixed spice and vanilla, and set aside while you prepare the apples. n Quarter and core the apples, then slice quite thinly, tossing in a little lemon juice as you go. Quickly beat together the cake ingredients with an electric whisk until smooth, then scrape into the baking tray.

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Photograph STUART OVENDEN

dates 200g, roughly chopped milk 200ml + a splash butter 250g, softened + extra for greasing self-raising flour 280g (try Orgran available at gourmet stores) light soft brown sugar 200g (try Tate & Lyle available at gourmet stores) baking powder 1/2 tsp eggs 4, large mixed spice (cinnamon, nutmeg and cardamom) 1 tbsp vanilla extract 2 tsp apples 3, small lemon juice a squeeze toffees a handful icing sugar for dusting

Recipe SARAH COOK Photograph MAJA SMEND Styling JO HARRIS Food styling LIZZIE HARRIS

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eat in in season

a processor, and soft enough to cut through easily with a sharp knife if you are using your fingers lard or hydrogenated vegetable oil 100g, chilled salt a pinch caster sugar 6 tbsp (optional)

n Arrange the apple slices, overlapping in rows, on top of the cake — you should be able to get 3 rows lengthways down the tray. Bake for about 45-50 minutes until a skewer poked into the centre of the cake comes out clean. Cool in the tray. n Put the toffees in a small pan with a good splash of milk and gently melt, stirring, until runny. To finish, dust with a little icing sugar, then drizzle sauce all over the cake. Cut into squares or slices to serve. n PER SERVING 327 kcals, protein 5g, carbs 42g, fat 17g, sat fat 10g, fibre 2g, sugar 27g, salt 0.53g

Apple and cornflake pots Serves 4 n 25 minutes n EASY apples 800g, peeled and sliced golden caster sugar 3 tbsp (try Tate & Lyle available at gourmet stores) maple syrup or honey 2 tbsp REALLY REALLY butter 25g EASY cornflakes 85g crème fraîche 200ml (try President available at gourmet stores) n Put the apples, caster sugar and 3 tbsp water in a pan and cook over a medium heat, stirring occasionally, for

10 minutes, until softened. Divide the mixture between 4 glass tumblers and leave to cool. n Meanwhile, heat the maple syrup and butter in a large bowl in the microwave for 1 minute to melt. Add the cornflakes and stir well to coat. Top the cooled apple with the crème fraîche, then divide the cornflake mix between the glasses. n PER SERVING 372 kcals, protein 4g, carbs 60g, fat 13g, sat fat 8g, fibre 3g, sugar 44g, salt 0.8g

Old-fashioned apple pie Serves 6 n 1 hour 15 minutes n EASY shortcrust pastry 500g, rolled to the thickness of a coin (see recipe below) apples 1 kg, peeled, cored, sliced and tossed in a squeeze of lemon juice plain flour 3 tbsp egg 1, separated golden caster sugar 100g, mixed with 1/2 tsp cinnamon and a grating of nutmeg THE SHORTCRUST PASTRY Makes 600g n 1 hour n EASY plain flour 400g (fine plain flour makes better pastry if you can get it) butter 100g, chilled if you are using

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n To make the shortcrust pastry, sift the flour (don’t skip this bit, it aerates the flour and lightens the pastry) and tip it into a food processor or bowl. Add the butter and lard. If you are processing, use the pulse button to whizz to breadcrumbs so that you don’t over-process it. Add salt and the sugar, if using, and pulse to combine. Tip into a bowl. If you are making the pastry by hand, rub the fats into the flour with your fingertips until you have the same result. n Add 1 tbsp cold water and stir with a knife to start to bring the pastry together (you want to have as little contact with the pastry yourself as possible to stop it getting too hot). Then use your fingertips to make the pastry into a ball, add more water, drip by drip if you need to, until the ball of pastry leaves the sides of the bowl. Wrap in cling-film or put in a plastic bag, flatten to a thick disc and chill for 30 minutes. Don’t skip this bit either, it makes your pastry easier to roll out. n Once chilled, roll out on a lightly floured surface with a lightly floured rolling pin to the thickness you need, giving the pastry a quarter turn every few rolls to help it keep its shape. n Heat the oven to 190°C. Line a 20 cm-deep pie dish with some of the pastry. Toss the apples with the flour and most of the sugar mix and add to the pie. n Add a top crust, trim, crimp and cut 2 slashes in the top. Brush with egg white and sprinkle with the rest of the sugar mix. Bake for 45 minutes or until golden. n Serve with whipped cream or custard. n PER SERVING 535 kcals, protein 7g, carbs 75.5g, fat 24.8g, sat fat 9.4g, fibre 4.4g, salt 0.89g

Recipe JAYNE CROSS Photograph WILL HEAP Styling SUE ROWLANDS Food styling VAL BARRETT

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Recipe LULU GRIMES Photograph PHILLIP WEBB Styling JENNY IGGLEDEN Food styling LUCY McKELVIE

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A classic apple dessert

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WorldMags.net TASTE TEAM COMMENT Before I tried this recipe, a crumble meant raw fruit with a streusel topping for me. But after trying the recipe, I found that a simple dish has been elevated to a gourmet level. I substituted almond flakes with chopped almonds and also used demerara sugar instead of caster sugar. The sugar, honey and butter combined took the crumble up a notch. Crunchy almonds, a butterscotch-like topping and comforting saucy apples — a match made in heaven. Sweatha J is a food blogger who lives in Bengaluru. She blogs at tastecurryleaf.blogspot.in

Glazed apple tart Serves 6 n 1 hour n A LITTLE EFFORT

Serves 10 n 1 hour 30 minutes n EASY Granny Smith or green apples 6, peeled, cored and cut into chunks red apples 6, peeled, cored and cut into chunks caster sugar 85g sultanas or raisins 100g brown sugar 100g honey 50g butter 250g oats 300g plain flour 300g almonds 100g, flaked cinnamon 1 tsp, ground n Cook the apples with the caster sugar in a large pan, stirring occasionally — add a splash of water if they start to stick on the bottom. When just about tender and a bit saucy, stir in

the sultanas or raisins and tip into 2 large ovenproof dishes. n Melt the brown sugar, honey and butter together in a large pan. n Take off the heat and stir in the oats, flour, almonds and cinnamon until sticky and crumbly. Divide over the apples. To bake straight away, heat oven to 180°C, then bake for approximately 40-50 minutes until the topping is golden and crisp. n To freeze, wrap dishes well or freeze the fruit and crumble mixture in separate freezer bags if you don’t have spare baking dishes. To cook from frozen, cover with foil and bake at 180°C for 1 1/2 hours, then turn the oven up to 220°C and bake for a further 45 minutes, removing the foil for the last 15 minutes. n PER SERVING 646 kcals, protein 11g, carbs 91g, fat 29g, sat fat 14g, fibre 8g, sugar 48g, salt 0.48g

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n Heat the oven to 200°C. Layer the sheets of filo, buttering between each one, in a cirular baking dish of about 25cm that has been buttered. Refrigerate. n Heat the apricot jam with the vanilla and sieve. n Cut the apples into very thin slices and lay over the pastry in concentric circles. Go as close as you can to the edge of the pastry: you don’t want a border. n Bake for about 30 minutes or until the apples are tender and the pastry is crisp and cooked through. n Leave until just warm, then brush the apples with warm vanilla apricot jam to glaze. n PER SERVING 231 kcals, protein 2.7g, carbs 29.1g, fat 12.3g, sat fat 5.8g, fibre 2.2g, salt 0.44g

Recipe SARAH COOK Photograph WILL HEAP Styling LISA HARRISON Food styling LIZZIE HARRIS

Oaty apple crumble

filo pastry 250g (try Jus Rol available at gourmet stores) apples 4-6, peeled, quartered and cored apricot jam 4 tbsp vanilla extract 1 tsp

Recipe JANINE RATCLIFFE Photograph MYLES NEW Styling ARABELLA MCNIE Food styling SONJA EDRIDGE

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eat in in season

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masoor gone mod Think dal is boring? Discover and delight in the immense global potential of the earthy masoor, also known as puy lentils, with our cool salad recipes

Puy lentil salad with soy beans, snow peas and broccoli (recipe on p 80)

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Pumpkin and puy lentil salad Serves 4 n 60 minutes n EASY

Recipe JENNY WHITE Photograph LIS PARSONS Styling JENNY IGGLEDEN Food styling JAYNE CROSS

pumpkin 1, peeled, deseeded and diced olive oil 2 tsp wild and brown rice 50g (try Real Thai’s mixed rice pack available at gourmet stores) puy lentils (unhusked masoor dal) 50g broccoli 1 head, cut into florets dried cranberries 50g (try Ocean Spray available at gourmet stores) pumpkin seeds 25g juice 1 lemon

eat in modern veggie

n Meanwhile, cook the rice and lentils in boiling salted water for 20 minutes, adding the broccoli for the final few minutes of cooking. Drain well, then stir in the cranberries and pumpkin seeds with some seasoning. Add the pumpkin, pour over the lemon juice and serve. n PER SERVING 266 kcals, protein 12g, carbs 43g, fat 7g, sat fat 1g, fibre 7g, sugar 18g, salt 0.05g

n Heat oven to 200°C. Spread the pumpkin over a large baking sheet, drizzle over the oil and bake for 30 minutes or until tender.

Sprinkle some crumbled feta for a slightly salty flavour.

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Lentils with pumpkin and feta

Puy lentil salad with soy beans, snow peas and broccoli Serves 4 n 25 minutes n EASY puy lentils (unhusked masoor dal) 200g hot vegetable stock 1l broccoli 200g soy beans or edamame 140g, boiled snow peas 140g red chilli 1, deseeded and sliced THE DRESSING sesame oil 2 tbsp juice 1 lemon garlic clove 1, chopped soy sauce 40ml fresh root ginger 3cm piece, grated honey 1 tbsp

n Boil the lentils in stock until just cooked, about 15 minutes. Drain, then tip into a large bowl. Bring a saucepan of salted water to the boil, throw in the broccoli for 1 minute, add the beans and peas for 1 minute more. Drain, then cool under cold water. Pat dry, then add to the bowl with the lentils. n Mix the dressing ingredients together with some seasoning. Pour over the lentils and vegetables, then mix in well with the sliced chilli. Pile onto a serving platter or divide between 4 plates and serve. n PER SERVING 302 kcals, protein 22g, carbs 42g, fat 7g, sat fat 1g, fibre 8g, sugar 9g, salt 1.41g

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puy lentils (unhusked masoor dal) 100g vegetable stock 400ml olive oil 1 tbsp pumpkin 200g, diced red onion 1/2, finely sliced chilli flakes a pinch cumin 1 tsp, ground feta 50g, crumbled (try President available at gourmet stores) parsley a small bunch, chopped n Cook the lentils in the stock until tender, about 15-20 minutes, then drain. Heat the olive oil in a non-stick frying pan. Add the pumpkin and some seasoning, then cook gently for 5 minutes. Add the onions and chilli and keep cooking until the pumpkin is golden and tender, another 10 minutes. n Add the cumin and stir through. Add the lentils, then stir until combined. Stir in the parsley, then divide between 2 plates and scatter over the crumbled feta. n PER SERVING 327 kcals, protein 18.1g, carbs 37g, fat 12.9g, sat fat 4g, fibre 6.7g, salt 2.74g

Recipe JANINE RATCLIFFE Photograph DAVID MUNNS Styling JO HARRIS Food styling SONIA EDRIDGE

Serves 2 n 30 minutes n EASY

eat in modern veggie

Recipe JENNIFER JOYCE Photograph LIS PARSONS Styling JENNY IGGLEDEN Food styling JENNIFER JOYCE

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Lentil rice salad with beetroot and feta dressing Serves 2 n 25 minutes n EASY beetroots 2, peeled and cut into wedges baby carrots 100g sherry vinegar 2 tbsp (try Cirio available at gourmet stores) Dijon mustard 1 tsp (try Tracklements available at gourmet stores) extra virgin olive oil 1 tbsp mint small bunch, few leaves picked and remaining chopped sugar a pinch basmati rice 250g, cooked puy lentils (unhusked masoor dal) 400g, cooked, drained and rinsed hazelnuts or almonds 2 tbsp, toasted and roughly chopped

feta 2 tbsp, crumbled (try President available at gourmet stores) n Cook the beetroots in a pan of boiling water for about 5-6 minutes until just tender but still with a bite; add the carrots for the final 2 minutes of the boiling. Whisk together the vinegar, mustard, olive oil, chopped mint and sugar, and season. n Put the rice and lentils in a bowl. Add the carrots and beetroots, then pour over the dressing and toss to combine. Transfer to a serving platter and sprinkle over the nuts, feta and mint leaves to serve. n PER SERVING 496 kcals, protein 16g, carbs 57g, fat 23g, sat fat 5g, fibre 8g, sugar 8g, salt 1.3g

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WorldMags.net TASTE TEAM COMMENT This is a highprotein snack with the unique combination of tender puy lentils, pungent garlic and onions, earthy cumin and sugar. I used powdered sugar instead of caster sugar, and topped the salad with roasted papads to give it an interesting crunch. You could serve it in a cone-shaped papad to make the salad look more visually appealing. Sheetal Bafna is a vegetarian food enthusiast living in Mumbai

REALLY REALLY EASY

Puy lentil, red onion and herb salad Serves 8 n 30 minutes n EASY

n Put the onion in a bowl with the lemon juice, sugar, cumin and garlic. Toss and leave to marinate for 10 minutes. Cook the lentils until just tender, rinse and drain. Toss with the onion mix, season well, then add the herbs and toss again. n PER SERVING 123 kcals, protein 9.4g, carbs 20.7g, fat 0.8g, sat fat none, fibre 3.5g, salt 0.02g

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Recipe JANINE RATCLIFFE Photograph GARETH MORGANS

red onion 1, small, halved and finely sliced juice 2 lemons golden caster sugar 2 tsp (try Tate and Lyle available at gourmet stores) cumin 1 tsp, ground garlic clove 1, crushed puy lentils (unhusked masoor dal) 300g coriander a small bunch, leaves picked parsley a small bunch, leaves picked

eat in modern veggie

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REALLY REALLY EASY

Puy lentil salad with mozzarella Serves 4 n 30 minutes n EASY puy lentils (unhusked masoor dal) 225g red onion 1, finely sliced lemons 2, juiced roasted red peppers 150g, sliced sun-dried tomatoes 16 mozzarella 2 balls, ripped into pieces (try Impero available at gourmet stores) basil a bunch extra virgin olive oil a splash mixed salad leaves (lettuce, arugula and baby spinach) 4 handfuls

n Cook the lentils in simmering water for 20 minutes. Drain. Meanwhile, soak the red onion in half the lemon juice for 5 minutes. Once the lentils are cooked, add the drained onion, remaining lemon juice, peppers and tomatoes. n Stir through the mozzarella and basil, season and dress with olive oil. Arrange some salad leaves on each plate and spoon some lentil salad into the centre. n PER SERVING 505 kcals, protein 27.6g, carbs 37.3g, fat 28.3g, sat fat 9.8g, fibre 6.8g, salt 1.77g

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Warm puy lentil, cherry tomato and halloumi salad Serves 4 n 30 minutes n EASY

cherry tomatoes 250g, halved red onion 1/2, finely sliced garlic clove 1/2, crushed juice 1/2 lemon olive oil 1 tbsp puy lentils (unhusked masoor dal) 150g halloumi cheese 250g, cut into chunks coriander a small bunch, roughly chopped

n Toss the tomatoes, red onion, garlic, lemon juice and olive oil in a bowl. Cook the puy lentils until just tender, drain and add to the bowl. Season well and toss. Grill the halloumi until golden. Stir the coriander through the lentils and serve with the halloumi. n PER SERVING 346 kcals, protein 22.4g, carbs 21.9g, fat 19.4g, sat fat 9.7g, fibre 4.2g, salt 2.32g

Light yet filling

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Recipe JANINE RATCLIFFE Photograph SIMON WALTON Styling ALISON NICHOLLS Food styling LIZZIE HARRIS

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eat in modern veggie

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Quinoa, puy lentil and feta salad Serves 4 n 30 minutes n EASY quinoa 200g (try Roland available at gourmet stores) olive oil 1 tsp shallot 1 or onion 1/2, finely chopped tarragon 2 tbsp, roughly chopped puy lentils (unhusked masoor dal) 500g, cooked cucumber 1/4, lightly peeled and diced feta 100g, crumbled spring onions 6, thinly sliced zest 1 orange juice 1 orange red or white wine vinegar 1 tbsp (try Cirio available at gourmet stores)

n Cook the quinoa in a large pan of boiling water for about 10-15 minutes until tender. Drain well, then set aside to cool. n Meanwhile, heat the oil in a small pan, then cook the shallot or onion for a few minutes until softened. Add the tarragon, stir well, then remove from the heat. n Stir the softened shallot and tarragon into the cooled quinoa along with the lentils, cucumber, feta, spring onions, orange zest and juice and vinegar. Toss well together and serve. n PER SERVING 286 kcals, protein 16g, carbs 39g, fat 9g, sat fat 3g, fibre 2g, sugar 6g, salt 1.48g

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eat in weekend

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mad about

Make M k magic i with ith d different ifff t mushroom h varieties. i ti O Our standout t d t recipes i scream wow!! Recipes GRESHAM FERNANDES Photographs SHIRISH SEN Props courtesy GOOD EARTH, THE SHOP, FABINDIA, FCML HOME, ZAZA, PURE

MENU FOR 4 ✴ Shiitake tea ✴ Marinated mushrooms ✴ Roast chicken with braised porcini

✴ Pork tenderloin with mustard cream

✴ Tortellini of fresh mushrooms

✴ Basa with enoki mushrooms and brown butter

✴ French toast with

“Dubbed as the meat of the veggie world, mushrooms are some of the most versatile ingredients around. A dried shiitake mushroom, when braised with soy and mirin, tastes as good as tender roast meat. Mushrooms are low in calories and a good source of Vitamin B. The demand for mushrooms in the country is growing gradually and has to be sustained not only by chefs but home cooks as well.”

porcini ice cream

Gresham Fernandes, Group Executive Chef of Impresario Entertainment and Hospitality

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Roast chicken with braised porcini (recipe on 90)

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eat in weekend

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Marinated mushrooms Serves 4 ■ 30 minutes ■ EASY I have sought inspiration from my father for this recipe. His tendency to add all ingredients at once always imparted sublime flavours to the dish. High in complexity, every element in this dish has flavours that are both water-soluble and fat-soluble. Hence the use of the olive oil and water.

Shiitake tea Serves 4 ■ 10 minutes + resting ■ EASY A quick, simple dish, the soaking liquid of dried ingredients imparts an earthy flavour — be it porcini mushrooms or sundried tomatoes. Alternatively, you can perk up the taste by using chicken stock instead of water. ginger 1, medium-sized spring onions 2 dried shiitake mushrooms 150g fresh shiitake mushrooms 3, mediumsized water 1l salt and pepper to taste

■ Wash the ginger and smash it with the flat side of the knife. ■ Halve the spring onions and mix with the ginger and shiitake. Pour boiling water over the mixture. Cling wrap the bowl and keep aside overnight. ■ Strain the contents through a muslin cloth, slice some of the rehydrated shiitake and the fresh shiitake for the garnish and keep the remaining mushrooms for later use in the marinated mushrooms (next). Warm the liquid and adjust the seasoning. Add both the shiitake and thinly sliced spring onion greens. Serve warm. ■ PER SERVING 115.50 kcals, protein 3.75g, carbs 29.70g, fat 0.28g, sat fat none, fibre 4.53g, salt 0.1g

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dried porcini mushrooms 5 (try Epicure available at gourmet stores) fresh porcini mushrooms 5, with stems fresh shiitake mushrooms 5, without stems dried shiitake mushrooms 5 shimeji mushrooms 250g (available at gourmet stores) Portobello mushrooms 2, whole (available at gourmet stores) button mushrooms 10 fresh oyster mushrooms 250g fennel seeds 10 olive oil 200ml garlic clove 1, cut into half water 200ml Vermouth 100ml zest 1 orange sherry vinegar 5ml (try Capirete available at gourmet stores) fresh French bread or any crusty bread to serve ■ In a heavy-bottomed pan, add all the ingredients at once and cook on slow till all the water evaporates and the mushrooms are submerged in the oil. Leave to cool. ■ Cut the bread and brush it with the oil from the mushroom. Toast the bread in a pan. Serve the warm bread with the cool marinated mushrooms. ■ PER SERVING 488.50 kcals, protein 3.48g, carbs 13.48g, fat 46.68g, sat fat 6.65g, fibre 3.98g, salt 0.1g

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Make the mushrooms ahead and assemble a few minutes before serving at a dinner party.

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eat in weekend

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Roast chicken with braised porcini

interesting earthy taste, complementing the tart sauce.

Serves 4 ■ 50 minutes + resting and soaking ■ EASY

fresh Portobello mushroom 1, whole dried fennel 2 tsp pork 1kg, cleaned salt and pepper to taste olive oil to marinate

Porcini mushrooms are my favourite mushrooms. The dish uses both the dried and fresh varieties. This shows that the same mushroom can have contrasting tastes and textures. The fresh ones are grown locally though they may not be as flavourful as their imported cousins. chickens 2 whole, small fresh porcini 4 olive oil a drizzle salt and pepper to taste THE LIQUID water 3l salt 90g sugar 30g THE SAUCE dried porcini 5 butter 30g onion 1, medium-sized, finely chopped salt 1 tsp sweet port wine 90ml red wine 90ml chicken stock 100ml balsamic vinegar 10ml (try Colavita available at gourmet stores) whipped cream 100g ■ For the liquid, boil half the water with the salt and sugar; once they dissolve, add the other half. Cool to room temperature, add the chicken and let it soak in the liquid for 24 hours. ■ To make the sauce, soak the dried porcini in warm water for half an hour. Rub the porcini gently to remove the grit and sand. Allow the mushrooms to rest for a further 15 minutes. ■ Take the porcini out carefully and pass it under fresh tap water. Transfer to another bowl. Pass the mushroom water through double muslin cloth but do not tip the bowl totally since the grit will be at the bottom. Discard it and keep the strained water aside. ■ Heat a pan with the butter. Add the onions and salt and cook the onions

till they brown and soften. Add the dried porcini and the wines and the porcini water till it reaches a syrupy consistency. Add stock and balsamic and leave aside. Adjust the seasoning. ■ Remove the chicken from the brine and wash under tap water. Pat dry. Heat the oven to 100°C and let the chicken reach room temperature. Rub the chicken with the olive oil, salt and pepper. Put the chicken in the oven and cook for about 30-40 minutes. ■ Heat a pan with the butter, sear the chicken on all sides till nice and crispy. Remove the chicken and rest. In the same pan add the fresh porcini mushrooms and sauté till you get some colour on them and season. ■ Warm up the sauce; add the whipped cream to it. Serve with the mushrooms and the chicken. ■ PER SERVING 1149.50 kcals, protein 106.55g, carbs 20.80g, fat 71.53g, sat fat 26.30g, fibre 1.83g, salt 11.6g

Pork tenderloin with mustard cream Serves 4 ■ 1 hour 15 minutes ■ MODERATELY EASY This recipe is a tribute to the first chef I worked with, Frank Muller, who inspired me to rustle up the dish. Replete with simple German flavours, the crust pairs well with the Portobello, which has an

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THE SAUCE butter 30g Portobello mushrooms 2, sliced Vermouth 30ml cream 100ml parsley to garnish chicken stock 100ml (optional) Dijon mustard 10g (try Roland available at gourmet stores) wholegrain mustard 10g (try Tracklements available at gourmet stores) white wine vinegar 5ml (try Cirio available at gourmet stores) ■ Thinly slice the Portobello mushroom and leave it in sunlight to dehydrate or you can dehydrate them in an oven set at 50°C. Toast the fennel seeds and grind the two to a fine powder. ■ To cook the pork, heat the oven to 100°C. Dry the pork tenderloin with kitchen paper, add salt and pepper and roll the tenderloin in the fennel mix. ■ Heat oil in a pan. Once it begins to smoke, sear the meat evenly on all sides, transfer to the oven and let it cook for about 30-40 minutes. Cover the meat and let it rest for 10 minutes. ■ To prepare the sauce, heat butter in a pan. Once it begins to foam, add the sliced Portobello mushrooms. Let the mushrooms sweat on medium heat, add the Vermouth and let it reduce. Add the juices from the cooked pork in the resting plate and the cream. Add more stock if you want a thinner sauce. ■ Take the pan off the heat and add both mustards and the vinegar. Garnish with the parsley. Season lightly; the mustard and the vinegar will pump up the flavour. Slice the pork and serve with the warmed sauce. ■ PER SERVING 906.25 kcals, protein 65.78g, carbs 3.05g, fat 72.85g, sat fat 16.55g, fibre 0.55g, salt 0.5g

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Tortellini of fresh mushrooms

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Serves 4 ■ 1 hour 15 minutes + resting ■ MODERATELY EASY Mushrooms taste great with ravioli. This sauce is thickened using cauliflower unlike the traditional béchamel, and the flavour of the cauliflower along with the truffle is extraordinary. THE PASTA flour 400g salt to taste eggs 4, beaten olive oil 30ml semolina for dusting THE FILLING butter 30g olive oil 50ml garlic clove 1, minced onion 1, medium-sized, minced fresh Portobello mushrooms 2 fresh shiitake mushrooms 4 fresh shimeji mushrooms 100g fresh button mushrooms 100g fresh oyster mushrooms 100g dry white wine 100ml flat-leaf parsley 10 lemon 1, zest and juice nutmeg to taste Parmesan cheese 30g, grated (try Zanetti available at gourmet stores) THE SAUCE cauliflower 100g olive oil 30ml milk 1l cream 200ml truffle oil a drizzle Parmesan cheese 1 tsp, grated THE GARNISH chives half a bunch, thinly sliced cherry tomatoes 10 oyster mushrooms 5, sautéed ■ To prepare the pasta dough, mix the salt and the flour evenly. Make a well and add the beaten eggs and the olive oil. Mix to form a dough, though it will not be smooth. Allow the dough to rest for an hour; this will make it much easier to handle after an hour.

■ Knead well till you have a smooth and glossy finish. Roll out the dough through the pasta machine, while gradually reducing in thickness. Do this twice. Go really fine on the thickness so it turns out quite delicate, which is a beautiful texture but hard to handle. Keep the sheets covered. ■ For the filling, wash the mushrooms and pat dry. Slice all the mushrooms and add to a heavy-bottomed pan. Add the butter and olive oil. Once the butter begins to foam, add the garlic, onion and the mushrooms. Turn up the heat and let the mushrooms sweat out their water. ■ Deglaze the pan with the dry white wine, and reduce the heat, till all of it has evaporated. Turn off the heat, cover the pan and let it cool to room temperature. ■ Transfer the mushrooms to a cutting board and chop roughly. Add the parsley, lemon juice, lemon zest, nutmeg and the Parmesan. Season. ■ To make the sauce, cut the cauliflower into small florets, add some olive oil and roast the cauliflower in a medium hot oven (around 150°C till the edges begin to caramelise. Take it out from the oven. Add the milk and boil the cauliflower till it totally breaks down, purée the mix. Mix the cauliflower purée with the cream and the rest of the milk. You may have to add more milk to thin down the sauce. Adjust seasoning. ■ For the ravioli, cut the pasta sheets depending on the shape you like (square or circular) and add the stuffing in the centre. Seal each shape and use an egg wash to seal the ends. Try and remove most of the air in the ravioli or they will burst open when blanched. Keep the prepared ravioli on a tray with a lot of semolina. This keeps the ravioli dry and ensures that the pieces do not stick to each other. At this point you can even freeze them. Make sure to use up the whole mix. ■ Bringing all the elements together, blanch the prepared ravioli in boiling salted water. Warm the sauce, add the ravioli, some of the pasta water to thin down the sauce, the truffle oil and

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the Parmesan cheese. Garnish with chives, cherry tomatoes and oyster mushrooms. ■ PER SERVING 1060.25 kcals, protein 31.15g, carbs 99.80g, fat 58.58g, sat fat 20.55g, fibre 6g, salt 0.5g

Basa with enoki mushrooms and brown butter Serves 4 ■ 45 minutes ■ EASY Although the enoki tends to wilt and resemble noodles, it tastes delectable when paired with the fish and brown butter sauce. basa 1kg, cleaned salt and pepper to taste lime juice 10ml flour for dusting dried porcini 1 tbsp powdered fresh enoki mushrooms a bunch fresh red chilli 1, deseeded and sliced THE BROWN BUTTER SAUCE butter 225g milk powder 100g water 100ml corn syrup 3 tbsp salt to taste ■ To prepare the brown butter sauce, add the butter and the milk powder and cook on low heat till the milk solids begin to brown. You will get a deep nutty smell. Take the pan off the heat and keep aside, allowing the flavours to develop. ■ Strain the butter and use it to cook the fish. Purée the solids with water and corn syrup. Wipe the basa with kitchen paper and marinate with salt, pepper and lime juice. Season the flour with salt, pepper and dried porcini powder. Dust the fish with the seasoned flour. In a pan, add the clarified brown butter and basa. Turn the heat to medium and cook the fish till it is golden in colour. Repeat for the other side. ■ Deglaze the pan with lemon juice and spread the browned butter on the fish.

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GOOD FOOD STAR RECIPE

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butter 15g apples 2, medium-sized dark rum 30ml ■ To make the ice cream, add the yolks and sugar in a wide bowl and whisk till light and fluffy. Boil the cream and milk with the porcini. ■ Once it reaches a boil, pour it over the sugar and yolk mix and cook the mix over a double boiler on medium heat till the custard begins to coat the back of a spoon. Cool the mix over ice and churn it in an ice cream maker. Freeze. ■ For the French toast, mix the milk, egg yolk, sugar and cinnamon. Soak the bread in the mix for a minute on both sides. Heat butter in a pan. Once it foams, add the bread, cooking on low until both sides are evenly browned. ■ To make the apples, melt the sugar in the pan. Once golden, add the butter and the apples. Deglaze with the rum. Serve the warm toasts with caramelised apples and scoops of porcini ice cream. ■ PER SERVING 747.75 kcals, protein 15.20g, carbs 91.25g, fat 36.55g, sat fat 18.30g, fibre 3.83g, salt 0.5g

Basa with enoki mushrooms and brown butter (recipe on 92) ■ Add the enoki and the chilli and sauté till they wilt. In another pan, add the brown butter concentrate and some water; cook till you get a smooth sauce. Serve warm with the fish. ■ PER SERVING 675 kcals, protein 41.75g, carbs 16.95g, fat 63.78g, sat fat 29.88g, fibre 0.53g, salt 0.5g

THE ICE CREAM egg yolks 4 sugar 100g fresh cream 250ml milk 250ml dried porcini 16g, powdered

Serves 4 ■ 50 minutes + cooling + freezing ■ EASY

THE TOAST milk 500 ml egg yolks 4 sugar to taste cinnamon 5g bread 8 slices (preferably day-old) butter 30g

If you wish to get experimental with dessert, try incorporating mushrooms in an ice cream.

THE CARAMELISED APPLES caster sugar 25g (try Tate and Lyle available at gourmet stores)

French toast with porcini ice cream

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MUSHROOM TIPS Most fungi need a quick clean with a wet cloth to release any dirt that may still be clinging or a quick dunk in cold water, especially if they’re going straight in the pot. Since mushrooms contain so much moisture, if you wrap them in plastic or keep them in a plastic bag, they will sweat and become slimy. The best way to store them is by placing them evenly spaced on a tray lined with kitchen paper, covered with more kitchen paper and kept in the fridge for a few days.

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eat in entertaining weekend

a Pakistani

feast

You’ll love this exquisite entertaining menu from across the border. Impressive yet easy Recipes and photographs SHAYMA SAADAT

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WorldMags.net saffron strands 1 tsp, crushed in a pestle and mortar whole milk 1l + 3 tbsp heavy whipping cream 300ml green cardamom 6 pods, deseeded honey 2-3 tbsp REALLY cardamom powder 1 tsp REALLY EASY unsalted pistachios crushed, for garnish

MENU FOR 4 ✴ Shahi Zafarani sharbat ✴ Hunza-style khobani ki chutney

■ Crush saffron threads in a mortar and pestle and transfer to a bowl. Add 3 tbsp milk. ■ Beat the cream in a chilled bowl with a whisk or an electric mixer just until it holds a loose peak. Store in the refrigerator until you are ready to serve the sharbat. ■ Place milk in a medium-sized saucepan on medium-low heat. Add cardamom seeds and bring to a simmer. Pass the milk through a sieve into a glass vessel and discard the cardamom seeds. While the milk is still warm (it should not be very hot), add saffron water, honey and cardamom powder. Stir well. ■ Transfer to serving glasses and add a dollop of cream. Sprinkle with crushed pistachios before serving. ■ PER SERVING 477 kcals, protein 9.50g, carbs 28.25g, fat 34.33g, sat fat 23.25g, fibre 0.55g, salt 0.1g

✴ Baingan borani ✴ Chicken karahi ✴ Yakhni pulao ✴ Shir khurma

“The Pakistani kitchen is heavily influenced by the Afghan and Central Asian kitchen, which means that most dishes are meatbased and the use of nuts and dried fruits in the typical stews and pilafs is aplenty. In many ways it is similar to North Indian cuisine. However, the Indians have elevated their vegetarian dishes to an art form, whereas the Pakistani kitchen is comparatively better known for its succulent meat dishes. The heritage dishes chosen in this menu are those which I grew up eating in my Pakistani-Afghan home, evocative of long summer vacations in Lahore and feasting together amongst relatives and chatter.”

Shahi Zafarani sharbat

Baingan borani

Serves 4 ■ 30 minutes ■ EASY

Serves 4 ■ 30 minutes + roasting ■ EASY

J

This warm sharbat for cool autumn days is a regal drink not only because it has its roots in the Mughal kitchen, but also because it incorporates the use of red gold saffron. The sharbat appeals to our three senses; sight — with its vermilion hue; smell — a musky, smoky aroma of cardamom and saffron; and taste — the creaminess of the milk with its crown of cream.

Shayma Saadat, author of the award-winning heritage food blog, thespicespoon.com. WorldMags.net

This dish has its roots in the Afghan kitchen. A cold yoghurt-based salad in Afghanistan is known as a borani. Here, the traditional Pakistani aubergine bharta has been given a twist and made it into a borani. The crunch of the walnuts adds another dimension to the dish. It can be enjoyed with chapati or naan or as a dip with crusty country bread.

WorldMags.net aubergines 800g vegetable oil 5 tbsp white onion 1 small, diced into 1cm cubes whole cumin seeds (jeera) 1 tsp salt to taste turmeric powder 1/2 tsp + a pinch green chillies 2 small, chopped and deseeded thick yoghurt 300g whole red chilli 1, dried garlic clove 1, chopped black mustard seeds 1 tsp smoked paprika or red chilli powder 1/2 tsp walnuts a handful, chopped, for garnish fresh coriander a handful, chopped, for garnish ■ For the aubergine base, pre-heat oven to 200˚C. Pierce aubergines with a fork and lay them on a tray lined with aluminum foil in the oven for 1 hour 15 minutes. You could even roast them on an open flame to save time. ■ When they are ready, they will appear to be wilted and soft. Remove from oven and allow to cool. Scoop out the flesh from the aubergines, discarding the skin. Set aside. ■ Place a large frying pan on mediumhigh heat and add 3 tbsp of oil. Add the diced onion and sauté till golden. Add cumin and sauté for another minute till fragrant. Add aubergine, salt, turmeric and chillies and turn heat to high. Sauté rigorously for 5 minutes, until the excess liquid has been absorbed. Turn off the heat and set aside. ■ Transfer the aubergine to a serving dish and spread yoghurt on top. For a pretty presentation, don’t cover the entire bharta with yoghurt; spread the yoghurt in a way that approximately 2cm of the bharta peeks out from around the edges. Set aside. ■ To prepare the tempered oil (tadka), place a small frying pan on high heat and add 2 tbsp of oil. To this, add the dried red chilli, garlic, black mustard seeds, and a pinch of turmeric powder.

When the garlic turns golden brown immediately remove from heat and gently pour oil in a circular design over the yoghurt. ■ Dust with salt, paprika or red chilli

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pepper. Adorn with crushed walnuts and sprinkle fresh coriander. ■ PER SERVING 275.50 kcals, protein 5.18g, carbs 19.68g, fat 21.10g, sat fat 1.40g, fibre 4.98g, salt 0.1g

WorldMags.net tamarind paste 1 tbsp water 350ml dark brown sugar 100g ginger 5cm knob, peeled and sliced into two fresh mint to garnish

Hunza-style khobani ki chutney Serves 4 ■ 1 hour 45 minutes + soaking and cooling ■ EASY Apricots grow in abundance in the Hunza Valley in Northern Pakistan. This chutney pays homage to this beautiful precinct of Pakistan. The tamarind paste is very typical of Lahori cuisine as is the red chilli pepper, thereby creating a dish reminiscent of both the Hunza Valley and Lahore. The chutney pairs perfectly with the yakhni pulao (see p 102). The sweet, tangy flavours play really well with the smokiness of the caramelised onions and mutton. It can also be enjoyed with a wedge of sharp Cheddar cheese and crackers.

■ Place apricots in a large bowl and pour boiling water over them, so as to cover them completely. Allow to soak for 2 hours which is when they will appear plump. ■ When apricots are ready, start preparing the base for the chutney. ■ Place a medium-sized, heavybottomed pot on medium heat and add oil. Add shallots/onions and gently sauté for 15 minutes till they are golden brown. Add apricots (as well as the water they were soaking in), salt, red chilli pepper, tamarind paste, water, dark brown sugar and ginger. Turn heat to high and when the mixture begins to boil, turn it to medium-low. ■ Allow mixture to simmer, uncovered, for 1 1/2 hours, stirring and checking every 15 minutes to make sure the chutney is not sticking to the pot. ■ As the chutney comes together, it will start to look like jam. If you find the consistency too thick, you can add extra water. Bear in mind that the chutney will continue to thicken as it cools. ■ When the chutney is done, fish out the pieces of ginger and discard. ■ Allow chutney to rest for an hour until it reaches room temperature. Garnish with fresh mint. ■ PER SERVING 673 kcals, protein 10.35g, carbs 149.30g, fat 6.80g, sat fat 0.40g, fibre 15.53g, salt 0.6g

Chicken kadai Serves 4 ■ 1 – 1 1/2 hours ■ EASY

dried apricots 800g, coarsely chopped (available at your local dry fruit store) vegetable oil 2 tbsp shallots or small red onions 100g, sliced thinly salt 1 tsp (or more, to taste) red chilli pepper 1 tsp

Chicken kadai is a dish typical of my city of birth, Lahore, though because of its popularity, gourmands from around the country will claim the dish hailed from their respective cities. The beauty of this dish is that it requires very few

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ingredients to prepare. It is lovely when eaten scooped up with chapati or naan and served alongside a yoghurt-based side dish. vegetable oil 3-5 tbsp garlic cloves 4, minced ginger root 2 x 5cm knob, julienned tomatoes 500g, finely chopped turmeric powder 1/4 tsp smoked paprika 1 tsp (optional) salt to taste chicken with bone 1 kg, cut into 4-5cm pieces green chillies 4, 2 whole and 2 chopped into discs fresh coriander a handful, stems finely chopped and leaves set aside ■ Place a kadai on medium heat and add oil. Add the minced garlic and stir fry for 1 minute till it turns lightly golden. Add minced ginger and fry for another minute till fragrant. ■ Turn the heat to medium-high and add the chopped tomatoes, turmeric powder, paprika and salt. ■ Stir fry the tomatoes until the water evaporates and the mixture looks jammy. This should take around 10 minutes. If the tomatoes start to scorch, turn the heat down a bit. ■ When the mixture has thickened and reduced by more than half, add the chicken and half the chillies and continue to fry for another 30 minutes. At this point, the oil will start to float free from the tomato base. ■ Cover with a lid or aluminum foil and turn heat to medium-low. Allow the chicken to cook for 15-20 minutes. ■ Remove lid and turn the heat to medium-high. Stir fry the chicken till the liquid evaporates. ■ Add the stems of the coriander, remaining chopped chillies, and julienned ginger (reserving some for garnish) and give the chicken a final whirl in the wok. Before serving, add coriander leaves, chillies and slim sticks of raw ginger. ■ PER SERVING 1630 kcals, protein 125.23g, carbs 4.98g, fat 122.70g, sat fat 31.85g, fibre 1.40g, salt 2.2g

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Yakhni pulao Serves 4 ■ 1 hour + stewing ■ MODERATELY EASY This dish reminds me of Eid festivities at my Nani Ami, maternal grandmother’s home in Lahore. The meat is stewed and made tender, and then basmati rice is added to the yakhni stock as it cooks, to give this umami-packed dish its unique hue. goat or mutton meat 1kg white onion 2, medium-sized, 1 peeled, root left intact, marked with an ‘X’ on top and 1 thinly sliced black cardamom 4 pods green cardamom 6 pods cloves 1 tsp black cumin (kala jeera) 1 tsp coriander seeds 1 tsp cinnamon stick 1, large bay leaf 1 black peppercorns 2 tsp salt 2 tsp fresh ginger 1 thumb garlic cloves 6-8 water 1 1/2l vegetable oil 3-4 tbsp basmati rice 400g, soaked for a minimum of 1 hour

■ To prepare the yakhni (stock), add the meat, the whole onion marked with an ‘X’, the spices and water in a large pot. You may also wrap the spices in a muslin cloth and secure it with a thread before placing in the stockpot. ■ Place pot on low-medium heat and let it simmer till the meat is tender. Keep checking the meat every 20 minutes; you want it to be tender, but not falling off the bone, about 1 1/2 hours. ■ The garlic cloves will soften up as they cook; incorporate them into the stock by crushing them with the back of a spatula. ■ When the meat is tender, in a fine sieve, drain the stock. Discard onion and ginger. The spices will stick to the meat. Set the meat aside. You should have approximately 1 1/2 litres of stock. ■ To prepare the pulao, add oil, and sliced onions in a large, heavybottomed pot. ■ On medium heat, fry the onions till caramelised, about 10-15 minutes. The onions will darken considerably, to give the pulao its unique golden colour. ■ Add 850ml of stock, the soaked rice and the reserved meat. As soon as the stock starts to boil, turn the heat to low. ■ Cover pot with a tea cloth (or kitchen paper towel) and place lid on top. Allow rice to cook for 30 minutes. Do not open the lid during the steaming process, or else you’ll end up with an undercooked, almost raw grain. ■ Turn the heat off and allow the rice to rest for 15-20 minutes. ■ Decant with a wide-rimmed spatula or a teacup saucer. ■ PER SERVING 996.50 kcals, protein 76.33g, carbs 88.63g, fat 36.03g, sat fat 10.55g, fibre 2.75g, salt 1.3g

Sheer khurma Serves 4 ■ 2 hours + refrigeration ■ MODERATELY EASY This dish is the taste of my childhood — my Ami always prepared this for us at the end of Ramadan to celebrate Eid. This dish, though Pakistani, has its

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roots in the Afghan kitchen, with ‘shir’ meaning milk and ‘khurma’ meaning dried date in Dari — the national language of Afghanistan. This dessert dish is a creamy wonder which can round off any meal beautifully. I like to dust the top before serving with a little bit of edible gold. vegetable oil 2 tbsp green cardamom 5-7 pods, deseeded vermicelli (sevaiyyan) 75g, broken into small pieces full cream milk 2l full cream 3/4l sugar 170g (can be adjusted to 225 – 350g, depending on the intensity of sweetness) almonds 200g + a handful, slivered raisins 100g dried dates 2 edible silver leaf (varq) or edible gold dust (optional) ■ Place a heavy-bottomed pan on medium-high heat and add oil. When hot, add cardamom seeds and vermicelli. Sauté for 3-5 minutes, stirring constantly till the cardamom is fragrant and the vermicelli begins to change colour slightly. ■ Add milk, full cream, sugar, almonds, raisins and dried dates and stir. ■ Turn heat to low and let it cook, uncovered, for 1 – 1 1/2 hours. The pudding will need to be monitored and stirred every 10-15 minutes. Be sure to stir thoroughly so the base of the pudding doesn’t burn. ■ When it reaches the desired consistency, turn the heat off, allow to cool at room temperature for 1 hour, then refrigerate overnight. ■ Serve with a dusting of edible gold (optional) or a layer of varq and a sprinkling of slivered almonds. ■ PER SERVING 1121.50 kcals, protein 38g, carbs 99.18g, fat 57.98g, sat fat 17.78g, fibre 7.40g, salt 0.3g

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Having a large, heavy-bottomed pan is a pre-requisite for preparing this pudding; the sugar and milk burns rather easily if using a lightbottomed pan.

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Present perfect

Recipe JENNIFER JOYCE Photograph JEAN CAZALS Styling RACHEL JUKES Food styling JENNIFER JOYCE

Gain maximum brownie points this festive season by gifting these homemade chocolate sensations to friends and family. A delicious heads up for Diwali!

Milk chocolate and pistachio truffles (recipe on p 106)

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Recipe JENNIFER JOYCE Photograph JEAN CAZALS Styling RACHEL JUKES Food styling JENNIFER JOYCE

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Black and white pinwheel cookies (recipe overleaf)

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put them on a non-stick baking sheet and cook for 15 minutes. Cool on wire racks. n PER COOKIE 83 kcals, protein 0.9g, carbs 10.3g, fat 4.6g, sat fat 2.7g, fibre 0.3g, salt 0.01g

Chocolate crinkle cookies Makes 20 n 40 minutes + chilling n EASY

Makes 40 n 40 minutes + chilling n EASY

REALLY REALLY EASY

milk chocolate 400g, chopped double cream 150ml (available at your local dairy) vanilla extract or fresh vanilla seeds scraped from a pod 1 tsp cocoa powder for rolling (try Cadbury’s available at gourmet stores) pistachios 80g, shelled and chopped, for rolling n Melt the chocolate and cream together in 20-second blasts in the microwave or in a glass bowl set over a small pan of simmering water. Stir in the vanilla, then pour into a small bowl. n Once cool, put in the fridge to chill for 2-3 hours. n When firm, use a melon baller or 2 teaspoons to scoop out and form balls, then roll each truffle in either the cocoa powder or the chopped pistachios. n Chill the leftover bits to use them up. Keep chilled until ready to serve. n PER TRUFFLE 93 kcals, protein 1.4g, carbs 6.9g, fat 6.9g, sat fat 3.3g, fibre 0.2g, salt 0.03g

Black and white pinwheel cookies Makes 40 cookies n 1 hour n EASY butter 200g, at room temperature golden caster sugar 150g (try Tate & Lyle available at gourmet stores) vanilla extract or fresh vanilla seeds scraped from a pod 2 tsp egg 1 plain flour 300g, sifted cocoa 25g n Cream the butter and sugar using an electric mixer or a hand-held electric beater for 5-7 minutes. Beat in the vanilla and egg, then add the flour. Beat until smooth, remove from the bowl and halve and mix the cocoa into one half. Shape both dough portions into rough oblongs. Wrap in cling-film and chill for 30 minutes until firm. n Roll out each dough to coin-size thickness, trying to keep the oblong shape. Put the chocolate dough on top of the white dough and trim the edges to neaten. Roll up lengthways like a Swiss roll, then wrap in clingfilm and chill for 45 minutes. n Heat the oven to 180°C. Slice the dough into discs as thinly as you can,

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n Heat the oven to 160°C. Melt the chocolate and butter in a bowl over a small pan of simmering water or in a microwave until smooth. Cool slightly. In a separate bowl, mix the flour, baking powder and 1/2 tsp salt. n Beat the eggs and sugar with an electric whisk until pale, approximately 2 minutes. Reduce the speed and add the chocolate mix and vanilla. Add the flour mixture until blended together. Cover the bowl and chill for 1 1/2 hours or even up to 2 days. n Put the icing sugar in a small bowl. Shape the dough into 4cm balls and roll in the sugar. Put them on baking sheets lined with baking paper and press down lightly with your hand to flatten. Bake for 12-15 minutes for soft centres and set edges. n Leave to cool on the baking sheets for 5 minutes and then put on a rack to cool. n PER COOKIE 148 kcals, protein 2g, carbs 23.6g, fat 5.7g, sat fat 3.2g, fibre 0.5g, salt 0.08g

Recipe JENNIFER JOYCE Photograph DAVID MUNNS Styling VICTORIA ALLEN Food styling JENNIFER JOYCE

Milk chocolate and pistachio truffles

dark chocolate 175g, chopped butter 4 tbsp plain flour 175g baking powder 1/2 tsp eggs 2, at room temperature golden caster sugar 150g (try Tate & Lyle available at gourmet stores) vanilla extract or fresh vanilla seeds scraped from a pod 1 tsp icing sugar 60g

Recipe JENNIFER JOYCE Photograph JEAN CAZALS Styling RACHEL JUKES Food styling JENNIFER JOYCE

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Double chocolate almond biscotti (recipe overleaf)

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Fudge keeps for up to a month in an airtight container but may get sticky if you leave it out, so make sure the packaging is airtight.

simmering water and drizzle over the biscotti. Store for up to 10 days in an airtight container. n PER BISCUIT 68 kcals, protein 1.6g, cars 9.5g, fat 3g, sat fat 0.9g, fibre 0.5g, salt 0.1g

Baileys and white chocolate fudge Makes 30 n 45 minutes + cooling n A LITTLE EFFORT

Double chocolate almond biscotti Makes 50 n 50 minutes n A LITTLE EFFORT plain flour 200g + extra for shaping dough cocoa powder 60g caster sugar 150g (try Tate & Lyle available at gourmet stores) dark chocolate 60g, chopped (try Selbourne, Morde or Valrhona) baking powder 3/4 tsp salt 1/2 tsp eggs 3, beaten vanilla extract or fresh vanilla seeds scraped from a pod 1 tsp almonds 100g, blanched and toasted white chocolate 100g, chopped

n Heat oven to 180°C. Put the flour, cocoa, sugar, dark chocolate, baking powder and 1/2 tsp salt into a food processor. Pulse until pulverised. Add the eggs and vanilla and pulse until a dough forms. n Tip the dough onto a counter dusted with flour and knead in the almonds. Divide into 4 and shape into 2.5cm wide x 30cm flat logs. Lift them onto a paper-lined baking sheet. Bake for 25 minutes and then cool. n Use a serrated knife to diagonally cut the baked dough into 1.5cm pieces. Put on a baking sheet and bake for about 15 minutes. n Cool on a rack. Melt the white chocolate in the microwave or a glass bowl set over, not in, a small pan of

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n Butter and line a 22cm x 22cm tin, leaving a small overhang. Put sugar, cream and Baileys in a large pan and, stirring slowly, bring it to a simmer. Make sure the sugar is dissolved (it will stop feeling grainy on the base of the pan), then turn the heat up to a rolling boil. n Adjust the heat until the mixture bubbles without getting too near the top of the pan. Keep stirring occasionally, until a small amount of mixture dropped into a glass of cold water forms a soft ball that you can pick up on the end of a teaspoon. n At this stage, the bubbles will have gone from being large and unruly to smaller and more even. Stir in the chocolate and pour the mixture into the tin. Cool and cut. n PER PIECE 161 kcals, protein 0.7g, carbs 21.2g, fat 8.5g, sat fat 5.0g, fibre none, salt 0.03g

Recipe LULU GRIMES Photograph SANDRA LANE Styling HANNA DEACON Food styling LULU GRIMES

golden granulated sugar 500g whipping cream 500ml Baileys 50ml white chocolate 150g

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n Leave the dark icing to set for a few minutes, then drizzle the milk chocolate over with a teaspoon. n PER FANCY 194 kcals, protein 2.3g, carbs 23.7g, fat 10.6g, sat fat 6.2g, fibre 0.5g, salt 0.22g

Fudgy coconut brownies Makes 16 squares n 1 hour n EASY

Posh fondant fancies Makes 25 n 1 hour 15 minutes n A LITTLE EFFORT plain flour 175g baking powder 1 tsp butter 175g, softened golden caster sugar 175g (try Tate & Lyle available at gourmet stores) eggs 3, lightly beaten cocoa powder 1 heaped tbsp dark chocolate truffles 13 small round ones, halved (see recipe on p 106, substituting dark chocolate instead of milk chocolate) THE ICING dark chocolate 100g (try Selbourne, Morde or Valrhona available at gourmet stores) butter 25g icing sugar 6 tbsp milk chocolate 50g, melted, to decorate

n Heat the oven to 160°C. Put the flour, baking powder, butter, caster sugar, eggs and cocoa powder into a large bowl and beat together with an electric whisk. The mixture should drop easily from a spoon; add a little water if it’s too stiff. n Spoon the mix into a 23cm square cake tin (try to use one without rounded edges). Bake for 30-35 minutes or until the cake is cooked through (test with a skewer). Remove from the tin and cool completely. Cut into 25 squares. Top each square with half a truffle, cut-side down. n To make the icing, melt the dark chocolate and butter together with 4 tbsp water in a microwave or a bowl set over a saucepan of simmering water. n Mix in the icing sugar. Spoon over the top of the cakes, spreading round the sides and over the truffle with a small palette knife. If the icing gets too thick, heat it up slightly.

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n Heat oven to 180°C. Line the base of a 21cm square tin with baking parchment. Put the cocoa, butter and sugar in your largest saucepan and gently melt, stirring so the mixture doesn’t catch. n When the cocoa mixture is melted and combined, cool slightly, then stir in the eggs, little by little, followed by the flour and coconut. n Tip into the tin and bake for about 45 minutes on a middle shelf — check after 30 minutes and cover with another piece of baking parchment if the crust is browning too much. Cool in the tin, then carefully lift out and cut into squares. n PER BROWNIE 358 kcals, protein 3g, carbs 43g, fat 21g, sat fat 13g, fibre 2g, sugar 35g, salt 0.39g

Recipe JANINE RATCLIFFE Photograph PHILLIP WEBB Styling CYNTHIA INIONS Food styling DAVID MORGAN

cocoa powder 100g (try Cadbury’s available at gourmet stores) butter 250g golden caster sugar 500g (try Tate & Lyle available at gourmet stores) eggs 4, beaten self-raising flour 100g (try Orgran available at gourmet stores) desiccated coconut 100g icing sugar to dust (optional)

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Recipe SARAH COOK Photograph MYLES NEW Styling PENNY MARKHAM Food styling BRIDGET SARGESON

TURN TO P 144 FOR OUR BROWNIE MASTERCLASS AND P 154 FOR OUR FRUITY TWIST ON BROWNIES

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Now’s the time to…

126

eat out Six coastal restaurants reviewed, plus Rick’s Bar’s Honey Pork Chops to try at home

Chef Apoorva Kunte of Rick’s Bar

Be kebab happy Explore the nuances of traditional north Indian cuisine with the menu featuring new dishes at Kebabs & Kurries at the ITC Grand Central in Mumbai. While retaining old favourites such as the Sikandari Raan and a variety of biryanis, the restaurant has also expanded its oeuvre to include several kebabs and curry styles such as qorma, qaliya, salan or dopiaza. Call +91 22 40175109 / 10.

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Coastal restaurants on trial

Gorge on Asian Can’t get enough of Asian cuisine? Now there’s one more restaurant in Mumbai where you can satiate your love for the saucy, spicy and satisfying flavours of Asia. Umame is a new fine-dining restaurant that offers crowd-pleasers such as Burmese khow suey, a variety of Thai curries, dim sum, sushi and sashimi. Umame is the latest offering by restaurateur Farrokh Khambata and the menu includes some of the popular dishes from his recentlyshuttered restaurant, Joss. Call +91 22 661110303 for details.

105 106 122

Pro vs punter, Mamagoto Cocktails at Bengaluru’s Habanero

Try an all-day diner We can’t have enough of casual restaurants that offer unpretentious comfort food. That’s why we are excited about Two One Two All Day, a new all-day eatery set to open in Mumbai this October. On the menu will be deli fare and pizza fiends can make their own pies at the live pizza station. Some of the signature desserts of Two One Two restaurant are also likely to feature on the menu.

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Mexican restaurants on trial

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Toast to

the coast We put on trial six coastal restaurants famed for their seafood

HOW WE DID IT When it comes to seafood, Indians are spoilt for choice. With a coastline more than 7,000 km

long and rich culinary traditions that are typical to each of the coastal states, we are not just privy to an astonishing variety of seafood but also ways of cooking with them. The restaurants chosen in this selection showcase the best of these culinary traditions, and without exception, specialise in seafood.

Stuffed pomfret at Gajalee

The Gajalee mother ship at Vile Parle has over the years attained what one can only describe as crustacean supremacy — no one cooks a crab in Mumbai quite like Gajalee does. As you navigate your way through the unassuming interiors, you’ll see servers

parading the day’s plumpest catch at each table, tempting diners. The menu hasn’t changed much since the restaurant opened in 1991 and its forte continues to be dishes from the coastal stretch of Maharashtra. The Tandoori Crab might seem like an unusual dish for a Malvani

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restaurant but our server tells us that it is the restaurant’s speciality. The crab is basted in a mildly piquant Malvani spice rub rather than Punjabi tandoori masala. Next, we are told to take our pick of the live crabs, followed by crab clamps and bibs, which the servers

Illustrations ARTSPACE/123RF

GAJALEE, Mumbai

eat out restaurant spy

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cheerily secure in place. Finally, they place the platter of masala-charred crabs before us. Sweet, with just a hint of the masala coming through, the crabmeat is moist and tears away from the shell with little resistance. The Prawn Masala, though delicious when mopped up with the Ghavne (a lacy rice crepe), and Bhakri (rice flour chapatti), pales in comparison to the crab. The prawn is as home style as it gets with a freshly pounded coconut, garam masala and dried kokam base characteristic of the curries found in the interiors of Maharashtra. But it is let down by the prawns, which are overcooked and we suspect, a bit stale.

n BESTSELLERS

A big list! Bombil Fry, Tandoori Crab, Crab in Green Chilli Sauce, Stuffed Pomfret, Prawns Pickle, Clams Koshimbir, Crab Masala, Sea Bass Koshimbir, Lobster Butter Garlic Pepper, Prawns Masala, Stuffed Bombil Fry and Special Surmai Curry.

n PROVENANCE

To prevent overfishing during the monsoon, Gajalee serves seafood caught from the waters of Chennai and Visakhapatnam, which receive rainfall after Mumbai. For the rest of the year, local seafood is procured from the city’s Crawford and Sassoon markets. Apart from the crabs that are sometimes sourced from Sri Lanka, nothing is imported here.

n GO FOR STARTERS OR PUD? When pitted against the restaurant’s signature starter of Clams Koshimbir, our Caramel Custard is on shaky ground. Not comparable to anything you’d get at a Parsi or Irani café, the custard is agreeable but it could have been lifted with some more caramel.

The clams and Bombil Fry, on the other hand, are exceptional. Concealed beneath a semi-dry masala of coriander, coconut and spices, the plump clam meat is infused with all the flavours of this classic Malvani preparation. The Bombay duck, fattened and fried to a crisp, has remained a classic at the restaurant’s many branches.

n WHAT TO DRINK

When in a Malvani restaurant, your beverage of choice should always be a glass of chilled sol kadi. Gajalee’s version of this tart, coconut milk–based drink that gets its pink hue from kokam is a tad heavy-handed with the garlic. Ordinarily, we love a potent hit of garlic, but it doesn’t sit quite as well in a chilled drink. Other options include colas and virgin coolers, though we would have loved to chase down our Bombil Fry with a chilled pint of beer.

n INSIDER TIP

The management at Gajalee claims to make frequent visits to the local fish markets to get the freshest, seasonal catch. Before placing your order, talk to the server about which of the seafood bounty is the best to order. Looking at the tiny pomfrets in our local fish market, we skipped ordering one. But mid-meal we caught a glimpse of the hefty pomfrets they got from the coast of Kerala instead. Something we’d definitely go back for.

n DETAILS

Gajalee, Kadamgiri Complex, Hanuman Road, Vile Parle (E), Mumbai. With branches in Lower Parel, Andheri, Juhu, Mangalore and Singapore. Tel: +91 22 2616 6470/ 2611 4093. Timings: Lunch 11.30 am-4 pm; dinner 7 pm-12.30 am. Starters ` 85 onwards; mains ` 140 onwards; desserts ` 70 onwards.

Quality: 8/10 Atmosphere: 7/10 Provenance: 8/10 Choice: 8/10 Value: 8/10 Total: 39/50

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— Kainaz Contractor

From top to bottom: Crispy Bombil Fry; Tandoori crab; Gajalee’s Versova branch

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is crunchy and accompanied by mayonnaise. The butterfly-cut, dry fried prawns, dressed with head and tail intact and tossed in a marinade of Hindu Goan spices such as turmeric, chilli and a light coating of rice flour, are an excellent accompaniment to a stiff shot of feni. The Camarao Panado (fresh prawns coated in an egg wash and crumb fried) and the Fish Fofos (Portuguese-style fish balls) are too bland and likely to appeal only to foreigners. From the ample choice of gravies, the coconut-based Hooman Curry of Hindu Goan origin is worth a mention. This thick, brownish-yellow coconut-based curry redolent with spices and a hint of tamarind is excellent. It is served with boiled white rice and accompanied with Papad Kishmur, thinly-sliced fish marinated with turmeric and chilli powder and dusted in rice flour before it is fried. The fish pairs well with the rice and curry.

n BESTSELLERS

Fried Vel’lim, Butterfly Cut Fried Prawns, Lobster Recheado, Crab Xeq-Xeq.

n PROVENANCE

The fish is procured fresh every morning from Betim in north Goa. But a good variety of seafood such as crabs, sea perch, kingfish, pomfret steaks, red snapper slices, lobsters, mackerels, prawns and kite fish are sourced from other states, such as Kerala and Andhra Pradesh.

n GO FOR STARTERS OR PUD?

MUM’S KITCHEN, Goa Mum’s Kitchen is perhaps one of the only restaurants in Goa that boasts of dishes from different parts of the state. The menu, with a mix of Hindu, Goan Christian and Portuguese favourites, represents the best of both north and south Goa. An enclosed garden leads to an

air-conditioned dining area. Artefacts such as coconuts in baskets, garrafaos or containers typically used to store feni (the local brew) and rogdos or grinding stones reflect nostalgia for Goa’s culinary history. The service is casual, perhaps in keeping with laidback Goan culture, but prompt and efficient. All three local cooking styles are well represented on the menu. The crispy Fried Vel’lim (or milkfish)

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Definitely starters. If you have a sweet tooth, the Mangane is worth a try. This rich and creamy brown dessert (which gets it colour from dark jaggery) is a speciality from Hindu Goan homes, which rarely features on local restaurant menus. Pulses are cooked in jaggery and coconut milk and flavoured with cardamom powder. For first timers, it’s worth trying this delicacy. But given the wide variety of seafood available, the starters win over the dessert options.

n WHAT TO DRINK

WorldMags.net KARAVALLI, Bengaluru

The restaurant doesn’t serve spirits but you can take your pick from a selection of wines and feni, the local brew made of cashew or coconut. In wines, the Yellow Tail Chardonnay with its peach and melon hints is a good accompaniment to the fried seafood.

n INSIDER TIP Order the Sungtachi Kodi, a rich orange prawn curry popular in Goa, with parboiled rice rather than white rice. The Nallachi Kodi, a pink gravy made of the same mix of kokam and coconut that goes into sol kadi, is also worth trying with rice.

n DETAILS

Martins Building, 854, DB Marg, Miramar, Goa. Tel: +91 9822175559. Timings: Daily 11 am–11 pm. Starters ` 175 onwards; mains ` 425 onwards; desserts ` 135 onwards.

Clockwise from facing page: Tisryo Sukhem; The interiors of Mum’s Kitchen; Karavalli’s interiors resemble a Mangalorean home

The newly refurbished Karavalli is a tranquil haven away from the bustle of Residency Road. The main restaurant is styled along the lines of a Mangalorean home, but it’s the alfresco space, under the ancient rain trees, that is most popular. It’s a fitting setting for a leisurely meal. Karavalli may be in a five-star hotel, but the food is earthy, authentic and unpretentious. The flavours are large and pack a punch. That’s the case with the Tiger Prawns Malabar Style cooked with sautéed shallots, tomatoes and a hot Kerala spice mix. The prawns are embellished with slivers of fried coconut that lend a delightful crunch to every mouthful. The Kane Bezule has ladyfish steeped in Mangalorean masala made of chillies, cumin and mustard, garnished with crispy curry leaves and finished with a drizzle of coconut oil. It offers a true taste of the coast. The Camaro Con Cilantro, prawns in a creamy saffron sauce, pales in comparison. If you’re in the mood to get your hands dirty, the Crab Milagu Fry, large mud crabs cooked in a Kerala spice mixture hits the spot. On to the curries. The Alleppey Fish Curry made with cubes of seer fish and tart with raw mango is the item to order with the red, boiled rice. Souring agents and spice mixes distinguish each of the different fish curries here. The Travancore Fish Curry is made sour with smoky

Quality: 8/10 Atmosphere: 7/10 Provenance: 9/10 Choice: 9/10 Value: 8/10 Total: 41/50

— Odette Mascarenhas

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kodampuli (a dried fruit from the same family as kokam). There’s the Nagli Ambat, a kane (lady fish) curry from the Konkani community, flavoured with bimbli — a sour, local fruit. Besides nutritious red rice, Karavalli’s appams and parotas are great for mopping up the curries with.

n BESTSELLERS

Crab Milagu Fry, Tiger Prawns Malabar Style, Kane Bezule, Alleppey Fish Curry and Appams.

n PROVENANCE

Carefully selected ingredients are the stars of the show here. Seafood is sourced daily — prawns and mussels from Calicut, kane from Mangalore and mud crabs from Kannoor. Equal care goes into getting the spices and condiments — the Byadgi chillies, known for their rich colour and medium heat come from Dharwar, while the organic coriander and turmeric are from North Karnataka.

n GO FOR STARTERS OR PUD? Starters for sure, especially if you are here for the seafood. Superb quality seafood and freshly ground masalas combine in dishes like the Tiger Prawn Malabar Style and the offerings from the Karavalli grill, such as the spice-coated tilapia. If it’s a trade-off, skip the bebinca for the Meen Polichathu, pearl spot from the backwaters, wrapped in spices and shallots and cooked in a banana leaf.

n WHAT TO DRINK

Premium spirits are on offer, best drunk straight, as this isn’t the place for fancy cocktails. There’s an extensive wine list, featuring

WorldMags.net MADRAS AT RAINTREE HOTEL, Chennai

everything from pricey champagnes to the best vintages among Old and New World wines. But the complexity of spices in the dishes

doesn’t quite allow for sophisticated pairings. You are best off with an icy beer or tender coconut water.

n INSIDER TIP

Ask for the newly-introduced Karavalli tiffin carrier. The five-stack ‘carrier’ contains an appetiser, curries and accompaniments. The non-veg option costs ` 1,400 and serves two.

n DETAILS

Gateway Hotel, 66, Residency Road, Bengaluru. Tel: +91 80 66604545. Timings: Lunch 12 noon-3 pm; dinner 7 pm-11 pm. Starters ` 575 onwards; mains ` 625 onwards; desserts ` 295 onwards.

Quality: 8/10 Atmosphere: 7/10 Provenance: 8/10 Choice: 8/10 Value: 7/10 Total: 38/50

— Priya Bala

Above: Karavalli’s signature Kane Bezule Facing page, top: Madras Era Kallu Roast Facing page, bottom: Fiery grilled prawns; Madras’ no-fuss interiors

The décor at Madras, the south Indian restaurant at the Raintree Hotel, is quite authentic: the tapestry adorning the walls and the soft background score of strings and percussion are loyal to the restaurant’s origins. The theme continues on to the menu card, which has options from Andhra Pradesh, Tamil Nadu and Kerala. Although there is a wide choice of vegetarian and meat dishes available on the menu, Madras specialises in seafood delicacies. The Nandu (or crab) Rasam is the only choice of soup, but we are unable to try it because the catch of the day isn’t of good enough quality. For the main course, the friendly, well-informed waiters urge us to try the Thanjavur Meen Kozhambu, made of vanjaram or seer fish. The strong, bold flavours of chilli, garlic and tamarind are in perfect sync with one another. The fish is well cooked in the gravy and the shallots do their job of enhancing its taste. Although the kozhambu pairs well with rice, we try it with appams. It is a combination we would certainly go back for. From the backwaters of Kerala there is the Malabar Chemeen Curry. Medium-sized succulent prawns are cooked in a mild but flavourful coconut curry. This is a good partner to the soft, light puttu (ground rice steamed in cylindrical moulds) made with a combination of red and white rice. Andhra Pradesh’s penchant for spice is well represented by the Mamidikai Royalla Iguru — a hot and sour prawn dish with the heat of red chillies and tang of raw mangoes. This dish pairs well with hot steamed rice and a dollop of ghee. When the fishermen have a good catch, crabs and lobsters are available as well.

n BESTSELLERS

The Raintree Royallu Vepudu, Karuvepillai Yera, Meen Polichathu,

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Malabar Chemeen Curry, Mamidikkai Royallu Iguru.

n PROVENANCE

Being a speciality restaurant showcasing local cuisine, all the seafood is procured from Chennai’s vast coastline. Pomfret comes from Andhra Pradesh, while the blue crab and prawns are sourced from the Kerala backwaters.

n GO FOR STARTERS OR PUD?

Definitely starters. The Meen Polichathu is the star of the show. Tender seer fish is marinated in a paste of tamarind, chilli and garlic and wrapped in a banana leaf before it is cooked. The gentle flavour of the leaf gives the dish a rustic appeal. The Royallu Veppudu, prawns marinated with a simple combination of salt, red chilli powder and turmeric, reinforces the fact that even the most basic flavours can make a great dish. The Yera Kal Roast has a mild yet satisfying flavour. The large prawns are cooked on a grill with gentle spices that allow the natural flavour of the prawns to shine through.

n WHAT TO DRINK

The hotel has a well-stocked bar with cocktails and other drinks, as well as a choice of fruit juices. However, this cuisine pairs better with a beer or whisky than with wine.

n INSIDER TIP

The seafood platter with four different starters is the best way to get a taste of the three southern states. If you’re in the mood for a complete meal, the vegetarian and nonvegetarian thalis are a great option.

n DETAILS

The Raintree Hotel, 636, Anna Salai, Teynampet, Chennai. Tel: +91 44 28309999. Timings: Lunch 12 pm3 pm; dinner 7 pm-midnight. Starters ` 350 onwards; mains ` 350 onwards.

Quality: 8/10 Atmosphere: 8/10 Provenance: 8/10 Choice: 8/10 Value: 8/10 Total: 40/50

— Lakshmi Baliga

eat out restaurant spy

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n BESTSELLERS Butter Garlic Crabs/Prawns/Squid are hot sellers as is the gassi. There is also a section on Chettinad specials, that just by virtue of offering spicy chicken concoctions, moves well.

n PROVENANCE

The seafood is all flown in from Mumbai while the rest of the vegetables and meats are sourced locally. The all-important masalas are ground in house.

n GO FOR STARTERS OR PUD?

SWAGATH, New Delhi Ever since it opened in New Delhi almost a decade ago, Swagath has been a runaway success. In fact, it can be credited with kick-starting the seafood trend in the city. It is also the first restaurant in the capital to give Delhiites a taste of what is now dubbed ‘south Indian non-vegetarian’ — mainly Malabar and Chettinad specialities. Over the years, several franchises of the Swagath brand have sprung up everywhere from Janpath Hotel to Noida. Yet, we like the original Defence Colony flagship outlet best because we believe the food here is more authentic than at other outlets. The basic, no-frills interiors of the Defence Colony branch modelled on the lines of an Udipi café contribute to the feeling of authenticity. As you are ushered into the restaurant, you expect to be served a hearty, soulfulfilling regional meal. For inexplicable reasons (or perhaps because it makes business sense), Swagath lists its north Indian offerings first, followed by the south Indian section and even Chinese. We would strictly recommend taking the middle path. Since this is a Mangalorean chain, the gassi is a must try. Typically,

this is a spicy offering with thick and fragrant coconut. At Swagath, it’s offered in your choice of fish/ shellfish ranging from boneless pomfret to squid. In the past, the quality of the gassi — the barometer for judging authenticity — has been just about average at the restaurant. But when we try our Prawn Gassi with medium-sized prawns, we find its fiery sourness to be a perfect foil to the accompanying appams that too are perfect in their cupped, saucershape: thin and a wee bit crispy on the edges, plump and soft in the middle. The Kerala Vegetable Stew is good but could be more fragrant with coconut milk. What we do find rather startling are the prices. Our starters include Pomfret Koliwada, nice and batterfried crisp, but priced at more than ` 900 per plate. All the boneless fish options, including the Pomfret Gassi, are priced similarly, unforgiveable for a regional food brand with a ‘mass’ positioning. The other starter of Butter Garlic Prawns is fresh and floating in enough butter to make up our monthly butter quota but the butterygarlicky flavours do not manage to seep inside the prawns. Skip the cornflour-ridden soups — our Cream of Mushroom was mostly cornflour in hot water.

Above: Swagath’s nofrills interiors Below: Pomfret Fry

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Starters for sure. The Koliwada-style options and the Butter Garlic Crab are both good. Also try the ladyfish, a small sea fish with a central bone, which is deep fried until crisp and so tender that you can just tear off the flesh with your fingers. Though you could settle for regular desserts like Gulab Jamun and Kulfi, the starters are definitely the highlight here.

n WHAT TO DRINK

A cold beer would be an ideal accompaniment to this meal.

n INSIDER TIP

If you’re a vegetarian, avoid the gassi and try your appams with the rather nice Dal Garwahli (a combination of four lentils) that features on the north Indian menu.

n DETAILS

14, Defence Colony Market, New Delhi. Tel: +91 11 24330930. Timings: Daily 11 am-midnight. Starters ` 345 onwards; mains ` 295 onwards; desserts ` 125 onwards.

Quality: 7/10 Atmosphere: 7/10 Provenance: 7/10 Choice: 8/10 Value: 5/10 Total: 34 / 50

— Anoothi Vishal

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MAHESH LUNCH HOME, Mumbai

We’re not quite sure why seafood joints in Mumbai find it almost mandatory to have a fish tank prominently placed in the restaurant. But here it is even at Mahesh Lunch Home, brimming with fish darting about busily, while their hapless brethren get disembowelled on our plate, not even two feet away. Macabre décor aside, Mahesh is home to some of Mumbai’s best coastal Mangalorean food. The menu is extensive, with plenty of chicken and mutton dishes but why bother with anything other than the fish? The service, if anything, is overtly attentive. From the time we enter, we are surrounded at all times by at least two members of the wait-staff, and at one point, four of them scurry around, pouring water, serving Neer Dosa and whisking away dirty plates. We start with the Bombay Duck Fry from the special section of the menu. The bombil is not the best we have eaten. The batter-fried fish is under-seasoned, not as crisp as we would like it and the flesh is hard and meaty. Although the fish in the Rawas Tandoori Style is fresh and well cooked, the flavours of the dish are underwhelming. A bowl of coconut-based Prawn Gassi fares better, although the ratio between prawn and gravy is a bit awry. We would like more prawns to mop up with our fluffy, lacy, rice-based Neer Dosa. But it is all sunshine from here on. We try the Andhra Fish Curry, recommended by our server, and it is exemplary. The rawas in the curry is minty fresh, and falls apart in luscious morsels on our plate. I find the spicing to be spot on, although my dining partner argues that for a typically fiery Andhra fish curry, the chef appears to have gone a bit easy on the chillies. The Squid Sukha is our afternoon’s big hit. The fat rings

of squid are beautifully cooked, meltingly soft and almost sing in the midst of the spicy masala. A cracker of a dish!

n BESTSELLERS

The black pomfret curries, Butter Garlic Crab and Prawn Gassi.

n PROVENANCE

Above: Mahesh Lunch Home’s signature Butter Garlic Crab Right: The restaurant’s flagship outlet at Fort

The attentive waiter explains that the restaurant sources only the freshest seafood from the local fish market.

n GO FOR STARTERS OR PUD?

Dessert options at Mahesh Lunch Home include the usual suspects such as Gulab Jamun and Blueberry Cheesecake. We’d recommend you save your appetite for the starters, including the Prawns Koliwada and the fried Squid Rings that are crunchy on the outside and beautifully succulent within.

n WHAT TO DRINK

The Sol Kadi, light and refreshing and garnished with chopped parsley, is particularly good. We also try the Butter Milk and it effectively cuts the spice of the Squid Sukha. If all else fails, there’s always good old Tender Coconut Water.

n INSIDER TIP

Always check with the manager about the fresh catch of the day. He will tailor your dishes and offer substitutes according to what’s freshly available.

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n DETAILS Mahesh Lunch Home, Cawasji Patel Street, Fort, Mumbai. Branches in Juhu, Andheri, Thane and Pune. Timings: Lunch 12 pm - 3.30 pm; dinner 6 pm 12.30 am. Tel: +91 22 22870938. Starters: ` 250 onwards; mains ` 275 onwards; desserts ` 75 onwards.

Quality: 7/10 Atmosphere: 6/10 Provenance: 9/10 Choice: 9/10 Value: 8/10 Total: 39/50

— Meher Mirza

provspunter

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Does your average diner agree with what the restaurant professionals think? Television anchor Rocky Singh and BBC Good Food reader Sonali Malhotra compare notes on New Delhi’s Asian comfort food haven, Mamagoto THE RESTAURANT

THE PRO

Rocky Singh is the co-anchor of the food show Highway on My Plate that he hosts along with Mayur Sharma, on NDTV Good Times.

MAMAGOTO Exuding a casual, cheerful vibe, Mamagoto is a cross between a café and a restaurant — perfect for a quick get-together with friends. The eatery is synonymous with meal-in-a-bowl dishes and fingerlicking appetisers like Water Chestnut Spring Rolls, Prawn Tempura and Corn Fritters. Although the menu seems meat heavy, it offers ample options for vegetarians as well.

THE PUNTER

n Mamagoto, 53, 1st Floor, Middle Lane, Khan Market, New Delhi. Other branches at Saket and Vasant Kunj. Tel: +91 11 45166060 Daily 12:30 pm 11:30 pm. Average spend for two: ` 1,200. Singh and Malhotra visited separately and neither informed the restaurant before the meal that they were there to review it. Pushy table turning? No Regular water offered? Yes Veggie options? A sufficient variety

Sonali Malhotra is a practising advocate at the Delhi High Court. She is an avid reader and enjoys trying out new cuisines.

FIRST IMPRESSIONS

THE SERVICE

First impressions are everything and the security guard at the door of Mamagoto in Khan Market makes a very good one. A big cheery lopsided grin and a happy ‘Belcome Sar’ puts a smile on our faces as we walk up a staircase that could do with a little more light. There is a 30-minute wait when we visit at 9 pm, as the next day is a holiday. Standing right in front of the bathrooms to write our names in a register though is the low point of the evening. The seating is a little tight in the corner where we sit but the cheery wall opposite me, with big yellow tigers on it, makes me forget about that soon. Vibrant decorations, a busy kitchen visible through a glass wall, a noisy bar, all make Mamagoto ideal for an informal, fun evening out.

The excellent service may be due to the fact that the manager is a self-confessed fan of the show. Sumit, our server, is warm, friendly and knowledgeable about the food and drink. The service, like the atmosphere, is relaxed and informal and a little more laidback than someone in a hurry may like. Our server suggests a couple of dishes and proves to be right on all counts. The manager pops in for a chat and to check if all is well, which is something he does with the other tables around us as well.

Mamagato’s beautiful ambience is very welcoming. The sofas seem so inviting that I want to make myself comfortable on one the moment the hostess greets us. The restaurant has walls brightly bedecked with colourful pictures of tigers, bright cushions and even bicycle spokes for decoration. The décor goes well with the theme of the restaurant (mamagoto means ‘to play with food’).

The service is impeccable and prompt. The servers seem to be on their toes constantly and barely make anyone wait for their food. This is essential for a restaurant that is located in a mall, as the guests here are likely to be in a hurry.

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Thai Chicken + Water Chestnut Salad

eat out restaurant reviews

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Mamagoto’s quirky interiors

Spicy Asian Barbecue Chicken

THE FOOD

THE VERDICT

THE BILL

Mamagoto’s food has an element of fusion that leaves you in no doubt that it does not use the authentic, classical style of cooking. Mostly Thaioriented with a generous wedge of Japanese, the food has been tailored to the Indian palate rather well. The Hot Basil Chicken Cups are low on spice; they have crisp bases made with lettuce leaves and go down well. The Chicken Wings are average at best — perhaps a little less of the accompanying chopped, fried onions might make them crispier. The Tofu on a Crispy Spinach Bed is spectacular. I must say that I haven’t had a better tasting tofu dish in New Delhi. I definitely recommend it as I do the Spicy Fried Squid. The generously spiced, fresh squid makes for good eating. The tasty Water Chestnut Spring Rolls come with a delicious chilli bean sauce. The Steamed Fish with Chilly Oyster Sauce, Fried Fish and Vegetable Penang Curry are all well made and I especially enjoy the Udon Noodles with Chicken, which retain enough Japanese flavouring while simultaneously appealing to the Indian love for spice. No complaints about the Stir-Fried Vegetables either, which are well made and served piping hot. We have the Robata Prawns, which are barbecued well and served with a Sweet Barbecue Miso Dressing that really brings out their smoky taste. My companion Mayur Sharma and I stand divided on the Coconut Ice Cream which he loves and I find a tad too milky and heavy. There is also a Cappuccino Cheesecake, which is more of a mousse and unfortunately tastes a bit powdery.

Mamagoto is a fun and lively place where you can let your hair down, have a few drinks and enjoy some good food. The range of the menu is great but I must recommend some more sauces and condiments — a few more things to dip into, toss and munch will make this fun experience even better. Love the Japanese comic-style art on the walls — it makes the place bright and cheerful.

Rocky’s bill for four, including two drinks, five starters, five main courses and two desserts was ` 3,425 including taxes.

I request the server to suggest some tasty seafood dishes. We start with mocktails. The Virgin Green Collins is fizzy and refreshing while the Lemon Zest + Mint Lemonade is a zesty blend of lemons and mint. We order the Grilled Vietnamese Basa with a light sauce made of lime, chilli and coriander. The sauce is mouthwatering and I love how it complements the basa. We also order Robata Prawns, which are coalfired and served with a sweet barbecue miso dressing. The prawns have a strong pungent taste that we savour. The server also suggests we try Prawns in Lime and Chilli Sauce as a starter. Although it appears as a curry dish, she qualifies she will get it prepared without the gravy. The experiment pays off handsomely — we enjoy the dish. For mains, we have Honey Chicken with Bell Peppers and Mild Sichuan Pepper and Crispy Fish Fillet in a spicy black pepper sauce. The latter is a delight but unfortunately the former is just a regular Chinese-y chicken dish. For dessert, the Cappuccino Cake is a treat for the coffee/chocolate aficionado that I am. We also order the Hot Fudgy Brownie with Vanilla Ice Cream, which turns out to be quite average.

It’s a fantastic place to unwind. The service is fabulous; it almost warrants going back just for the hospitality and warmth of the staff. The presentation is meticulous. It’s certainly a cheerful place to celebrate with friends and family.

Sonali’s bill for two, including two mocktails, three small plates, two large plates and two desserts was ` 2,435 excluding taxes.

FOOD: 7/10 ATMOSPHERE: 8/10 SERVICE: 8/10 TOTAL: 23/30 Go again? Yes, I would go again.

FOOD: 8/10 ATMOSPHERE: 8/10 SERVICE: 9.5/10

t? staurFaonod’s e r a w revie Good Want tonce to become -word review a 0 For a chnter, email a 20 e visited, ’v u u p o t y r’, to nex staurant s Punte of any re heading ‘Pro v.in with your with the [email protected] ld be the bbcgooddetails. You cou contact e! lucky on

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TOTAL: 25.5/30 Go again? I will certainly go again.

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eat out restaurant recipe

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Its name inspired by actor Rick Blaine, who starred in the Hollywood classic Casablanca, Rick’s Bar at the Taj Mansingh Hotel in New Delhi boasts an extensive cocktail menu. Apart from a stellar range of American and Japanese whiskies, Rick’s signature creations include unique cocktails like French Passion. Sous-chef Apoorva Kunte rustles up scrumptious South East Asian dishes such as Tofu Ramen and Paper Prawns.

Signature dish

Rick’s Bar

Chef Apoorva Kunte shares the recipe for his signature pork chops

Honey pork chops with Jack Daniel’s glaze Serves 2 n 45 minutes + braising n EASY

oil 2 tbsp onions 2, sliced garlic cloves 2, sliced pork chops 4, available as pork loin on bone chicken stock 1l (chicken stock cubes mixed with water can also be used) basil leaves 5 salt 1 tbsp cornflour for coating oil for frying THE SAUCE oil 1 tsp garlic cloves 3, sliced hoisin sauce 2 tbsp (try Who Hup available at gourmet stores) light soy sauce 1 tsp (try Kikkoman available at gourmet stores) honey 1tbsp Jack Daniel’s Whiskey or any bourbon 30ml pomegranate seeds 2 tbsp, to garnish mint sprigs to garnish

n Heat some oil in a sauté pan and add the sliced onions and garlic. Allow the onion to sweat and turn pink. Now transfer the sautéed mixture onto a

heavy-bottomed roasting pan. Place the uncut pork chops onto the pan, pour in the chicken stock and tip in the basil leaves. Season well. n Braise in a pre-heated oven for 2 1/2 hours at 140°C after covering the pan with silver foil. n Take the chops out of the braising liquid and allow to cool, saving the liquid for later. n Once cooled, cut the pork into 4 chops, taking care the meat does not fall off the bone. Now coat each individual chop with cornflour and fry in pre-heated oil until golden and crisp.

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n To prepare the sauce, heat the oil in a deep-bottomed pan or wok, add the sliced garlic and cook till it turns golden on the sides. Now add the hoisin sauce, soy sauce and honey. Strain the cooking liquid from the chops and pour in 50ml into the pan. n Add the fried pork chops and spoon the sauce over the chops. Now turn up the heat and add the bourbon, allowing it to flambé. Cook till the bourbon evaporates and the sauce clings to the chops. n Serve onto a plate garnished with pomegranate seeds and mint sprigs.

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Now’s the time to...

eat away 134

Dharamsala on your plate

Be palate forward Dubai may offer tastes of several international cuisines but it is still a great place to try authentic Middle Eastern food. Recreate the flavours of the Emirates at home with our easy menu of Middle Eastern recipes on p 128. The Himachali hill station of Dharamsala is a melting pot of cultures and cuisines, with Tibetan restaurants and pizza parlours finding equal favour on its streets. Read about its culinary offerings on p 134. And on p 139, our travel columnist Karen Anand tells you why Perth should be on your culinary map.

136

Go on foodie trip Take a trip with a difference with The International Kitchen, a travel company that offers gourmet cooking tours and culinary vacations in places such as Morocco, Spain, France and Tuscany. On each of their carefully curated tours, you can opt for a one-day cooking course or a more elaborate foodie tour for several days. Visit theinternationalkitchen.com for details.

140

Postcard from Perth

Visit a food fest If you needed reasons to visit Sydney, here’s a solid one. Throughout October, the city is playing host to Crave Sydney, an international food festival. Now in its fourth year, the month-long festival features cooking demonstrations by chefs from around the world; Night Noodle Markets featuring hawkerstyle shops; pop-up restaurants, and special lunches and dinners. Visit cravesydney.com for details.

Must-visit food destinations abroad and in India. Take your taste buds on a trip.

plus T T Budget and blowout guide to Strasbourg p 133

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Miso soup in Dharamsala

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EAT LIKE A LOCAL

Dubai

Look beyond the souks, sand dunes and ski slopes in Dubai and you will find a rich traditional foodie culture

Words DELNA MISTRY ANAND Photographs BEYNAZ MISTRY Recipes MOHAMAD NAJDI

I

t has been said that the food of a culture often reveals its soul. Different flavours come together effortlessly, much like different nationalities that live together in harmony. As Dubai matured from a sleepy town to a sparkling metropolis, emigrants poured in from Europe, South Africa, Australia, India etc. As a result, the city became a melting pot of cultures as well as cuisines. Today, Italian, Vietnamese and Turkish food is as easily available as traditional Arabic fare although the latter still remains popular fare for many Dubai residents. Authentic Arabic food relies heavily on a diet of dates, wheat, barley, rice and meat, with an emphasis on yoghurt products, such as labneh (yoghurt without butterfat). Meal times start with a warm soup followed by cold and then hot mezze. Mixed grills of meats such as lamb, chicken or hammour (grouper) fish are served as mains, with rice on the side. Though Arabic food includes abundant meat dishes, the cuisine also offers many vegetarian choices such as hummus, baba ghanoush, veggie soups and stews. A sweet treat or a cup of tea and coffee wraps up the meal. The wonderful thing about Middle Eastern food is that it is extremely healthy. Dishes are usually cooked with olive oil and most of them are grilled or baked.

MENU FOR 4 T Traditional lentil soup T Baba ghanoush T Chicken mak’louba T Okra lamb stew T Mouhalabia Mohamad Najdi is head chef at Barouk at the Crowne Plaza Yas Island.

Baba ghanoush Serves 4 n 1 hour n EASY aubergine 600g tomato 50g, chopped parsley 15g, chopped garlic 5g, mashed spring onions 20g, chopped green bell peppers 25g, finely chopped mint leaves 10g, finely chopped

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lemon juice 20ml                           olive oil 80ml salt 5g pomegranate seeds 25g mint tips 5g n Grill the aubergine either on charcoal or directly over an open gas flame. n Place it in a container with ice, in order to cool it and keep its flesh white. n Peel the aubergine under running cold water, then put it in a strainer. Mash it, then add the tomato, parsley, mashed garlic, onion, peppers and mint, then season it with lemon juice, olive oil and salt. Mix all together. n Put on a serving plate, garnish with pomegranate seeds and mint tips. Finally, drizzle with a little olive oil and serve.

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Dubai’s palm-fringed beauty

Okra lamb stew Baba ghanoush

The InterContinental Dubai Festival City

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eat away dubai

WorldMags.net Okra lamb stew

Serves 4 n 1 hour 10 minutes n MODERATELY EASY

MINI GUIDE TO DUBAI EAT n To savour some local street food, head for Al Malla (Tel: +971 4 3984723) on Diyafa Street and try the succulent lamb and chicken shawarmas, complete with the accompanying garlic sauce and pickles. n Bastakiya Nights (Tel: +971 4 3537772) in old Dubai provides delectable Arabic and Emirati dishes served on an open-air terrace. n Or try Al Hallab (Tel: + 971 4 330 8828) at The Dubai Mall for a grandiose ambience, with an unmatched view of the stunning dancing fountains and the Burj Khalifa. n For date-inspired dishes, a stone’s throw away from The Dubai Mall is Café Bateel (Tel: +971 4 4210724).

STAY n Dubai is as cosmopolitan as it gets, with hotels offering a truly international experience. For an authentic feel of Arabian heritage, there is the grand Madinat Jumeirah (jumeirah.com/en/Hotels-and-Resorts/Destinations/Dubai/ Madinat-Jumeirah) that boasts of a ‘city within the hotel’, and offers two ornate and luxurious hotels within — Mina A’Salam and Al Qasr. The Madinat Jumeirah is home to the Souk Madinat, a replica of a traditional Arabic market place. A waterway winds its way through the complex, over which abras (water taxis) glide, offering guests a relaxing tour. n The InterContinental Dubai Festival City (Tel: +971 4 7011111) is located on the picturesque Dubai Creek. Close to the local shopping district and a 20-minute drive away from the main city attractions like Burj Khalifa and The Dubai Mall, this hotel is also connected to Festival Centre, which offers over 90 restaurants and cafés, cinema complexes and a shopping mall. n Arabian Courtyard Hotel and Spa (arabiancourtyard. com) is a great option for those who wish to experience authentic Arabic culture within a limited budget. Located in old Dubai, minutes from the Dubai Museum, this little hotel is a great place to see how the city looked before its glamorous makeover.

GETTING THERE n There are several nonstop flights from India to Dubai offered by Emirates, Air India and Jet Airways apart from no-frills carriers such as Air Arabia, IndiGo and Air India Express. For information regarding visas, visit http://dnrd. ae/en/Pages/Home.aspx

lamb shanks 400g, removed from the bone and diced corn oil 60g cold water 2 cups carrot 10g, peeled and chopped bay leaves 2 red onion 70g, finely chopped garlic cloves 8g, whole fresh coriander 15g coriander 5g, ground tomatoes 300g, chopped tomato paste 10g salt 7g white pepper 5g, ground cinnamon powder 3g okra 500g olive oil 50ml lemon juice 10ml n Sauté the lamb cubes in a very hot casserole pan with a little corn oil until they become brown in colour. n Then add the cold water, carrots and bay leaves and bring to the boil, skim the top and turn down to a gentle simmer until the lamb is cooked. Strain the liquid from the lamb and reserve. n Sauté the finely chopped red onion with the garlic in a pan. n After 2 minutes, add the fresh coriander, ground coriander, tomatoes, tomato paste and all the spices. n After 2 minutes, add the lamb stock to deglaze the pan; pour this back onto the

lamb stew. Leave it to simmer until the sauce reduces and thickens. n Sauté the okra in olive oil until turns golden in colour, then add to the stew with lemon juice. n Serve with rice, preferably vermicelli rice.

Traditional lentil soup Serves 4 n 50 minutes n MODERATELY EASY water 900ml red lentils 100g, skinless red onion 30g, coarsely chopped garlic cloves 8g, peeled leeks 25g, chopped carrots 40g, peeled and chopped potatoes 25g, peeled and cubed butter 30g salt 4g cumin powder 5g lemon 1, cut into wedges bread 70g, sliced and toasted n Wash the lentils and soak in water for 20 minutes. n Preheat a pot and add some butter until it melts. Then add chopped onion, garlic, leek, carrots and potatoes. Sauté until partially cooked. n Strain the lentils. Then add to the sautéed vegetables and mix together. Add the cumin powder, salt, and the water and bring it to the boil. Turn it down to a gentle simmer. n Skim the foam from the top of the water and cook until the lentils are soft.

LOCAL KNOWLEDGE n Street-side shawarma stalls are aplenty in Dubai. Ask for a shawarma sandwich for a quick bite and you will either get it as a wrap, or plated, with its various accompaniments. n Fresh juices at the street stalls are a must. The flavours are unique and delicious. n While having an Arabic meal, a bread basket with fresh vegetable salad will be served first. In most places this is complimentary. This is the cold mezze. n Purchasing and eating pork, although not illegal, is done discreetly and only to non-Muslims, in designated areas in supermarkets and select restaurants. n It is forbidden to eat any meat that is not slaughtered in accordance with Islamic law. The meat should be ‘halaal’ (clearly mentioned on the packaging). n Alcohol is only served in licensed outlets that are associated with hotels and a few clubs.

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Cosmopolitan Dubai Traditional lentil soup

Chicken mak’louba

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eat away dubai

eat away dubai

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MUST BUY

DATES Dates, or tomoor in Arabic, are a large part of Arabic culture and are served while welcoming guests in homes as well as the plushest of hotels. There are different varieties such as mabroom (long, thin, brown), sagai (short, light-coloured, with an amber top), sukkary (small, pale, rounder in shape), and safawi (dark, long, thin, wrinkly). You can purchase dates by the kilo, or the prepacked variety (Emirates Dates, Date Crown, and Nadiya Dates are impressively packaged and delicious). You can even stock up on some date chocolates, date mammoul (cookies), date syrup etc. DRY FRUITS AND NUTS Apart from dates, little parcels of dried apricot, dried fig, dried papaya, dried mango, hazelnuts, pistachios, almonds, walnuts, raisins etc also make great gifts. Munch & Crunch at Madinat Jumeirah (Tel: +971 4 3686622) and Souk Al Bahar (Tel: +971 4 2585600) have the most delectable range of roasted nuts. SPICES Visit the old Spice Souk to buy spices such as cardamom, cinnamon, saffron, nuts, cloves, henna and lots more. The aromatic herbs and spices are heaped artistically on hessian bags. Buy them at wholesale rates and end up saving some money too. CAMEL MILK CHOCOLATES Al Nassma, (available at the Arabic Souk of The Mall of The Emirates) offers luxurious camel milk chocolate, which is rich in vitamins and minerals and claims to have healing qualities. You can take your pick of the different flavours including camel milk chocolate with whole milk, with Arabian spices, the bittersweet variety, those with dates, macadamia nut and orange zest, chocolates with praline, camel milk chocolates with Arabic coffee cream, pistachio marzipan and hazelnut nougat. TAHINI For those who enjoy making homemade hummus, a jar of tahini (paste made from sesame seeds from the Middle East) would be welcome. SHEESHA FLAVOURS This one is for the sheesha lovers; there are plenty of specialist sheesha shops across town, each one stocking a range of flavours and brands. The best-known brand is Al Fakher.

Mouhalabia

n Blend the lentils and then carefully strain through a fine sieve. Return to the fire on a low simmer for few minutes. n Serve the lentils in a soup bowl with a lemon wedge or two on the side and toasted bread.

Chicken mak’louba Serves 4 n 1 hour 30 minutes n MODERATELY EASY whole chicken 1.4kg vegetable oil 60ml aubergine 600g, sliced basmati rice 500g red onion 200g, chopped tomatoes 400g, diced tomato paste 15g chicken stock 1l salt 10g white pepper powder 6g cinnamon powder 5g black pepper 5g nutmeg powder 2g pine nuts 10g, fried n Boil chicken in water for 50 minutes or until it becomes tender. Remove skin and bones and cut into four. n Deep fry aubergine slices until they become golden in colour. Set aside. n Heat the oil in the pot then add the chopped red onion until it becomes brown and well cooked.

MENU DECODER

MEZZE An appetiser or a spread of appetisers. There are two types of mezze — cold and hot. TABBOULEH A salad made of bulghur, tomato, parsley and mint, sometimes including onion and garlic. SHAWARMA Shawarma is eaten with tabbouleh, fattoush, taboon bread, tomato, and cucumber. Toppings include tahini, hummus, pickled turnips and amba (mango condiment). The shawarma ‘sandwich’ is a pita bread wrap made with shawarma meat, mostly chicken. MANAQEESH Popular breakfast or lunch snack. It is similar to a pizza or

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n Stir the tomato with the tomato paste into the onion. Add the fried aubergine slices, then add the rice and mix through. Add the chicken stock, salt and all the spices. n Cover and let simmer on low heat for about 25-30 minutes or until rice is cooked. n Serve the chicken on a platter, garnished with fried pine nuts.

Mouhalabia Serves 4 n 30 minutes n EASY milk 400ml fresh cream 100g sugar 100g corn flour 30g blossom water or rose water or vanilla extract or orange extract 10g pistachio flakes 50g, peeled n Heat the milk, fresh cream and sugar in a pot on low heat stirring from time to time, bringing it to a gentle simmer. n Mix the corn flour with little cold water to get a thick paste; add to the milk mixture slowly whilst constantly whisking. n The milk mixture will thicken; add the blossom water and stir thoroughly. n Pour the mixture into cups and place in the fridge to set. n When set, sprinkle with pistachio flakes and serve immediately.

stuffed paratha, consisting of dough topped with thyme, cheese, or ground meat. Most popular toppings are za’atar, cheese, minced lamb, spinach or Swiss chard. ZA’ATAR Za’atar is a mixture of sumac (middle eastern sour spice), sesame seed and herbs frequently used in the Middle East and Mediterranean areas. It is often mixed with olive oil and spread on bread or manaqeesh. KIBBEH Made from bulghur or rice and chopped meat, this fried patty’s best-known variety is a torpedoshaped croquette stuffed with minced beef or lamb. SHORBET Soup

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BUDGET and BLOWOUT guide to

Strasbourg Heaving with Michelin-starred restaurants, farmers’ markets and chocolateries, Strasbourg is a foodie’s delight Words and photographs FAREEDA KANGA

T The al fresco choucrouterie and restaurant Restaurant au Petit Bois Vert is picturesquely located by the riverbank, with tables placed under a huge plane tree. Try Alsatian specialities like the Liver Dumplings, € 14.50. (Tel: +33 388 326632) T Located in the old customs house, L’Ancienne Douane is a Strasbourg institution and an excellent place for a beer or a fixed price meal, approximately € 25. It has a spacious riverside terrace. (Tel: +33 388 157875)

The traditional Alsatian restaurant, Maison Des Tanneurs is set in a 16th Century house and has the reputation of being the most-photographed building in the Petite-France district. This may suggest it’s touristy, but the clientele and the quality of the cooking prove otherwise. Try the superb escargots for € 18. (Tel: +33 388 327970)

T The Art Café at the Musee d’Art Moderne is a lovely dinner spot with great views. It’s attached to the museum but open in the evening for dinner, as well as during the day for lighter meals and imaginative salads named after artists. (Tel: +33 388 233131) T Chez Yvonne offers steaming platters of local specialities: try the Duck Confit on Choucroute, Braised Ham Hocks and Quails Stuffed with Foie Gras. Appetisers from € 8. (Tel: +33 388 328415)

Michelin-starred Au Crocodile is named after a stuffed specimen brought back by a Strasbourg general during Napoleon’s Egyptian campaign. It offers Foie Gras with Spicy Relish and Green Anise, Caramelised Monkfish, and Iced Meringue. Prices from € 38 to € 130 for specialities. (Tel: +33 388 321302)

T Another must is Les Frères Berthom, with attractive décor, friendly staff, a good variety of beer and excellent cocktails (From Euro 5+). No wonder it’s so popular. (Tel: +33 388 328118) T The relaxing Académie de la Bière is open daily until 4 am, serving over 70 varieties of beer (including beer cocktails) in gorgeous, wooded interiors. (Tel: +33 388 223888)

The Vieille Ville neighbourhood east of the Strasbourg Cathedral, along Rue des Frères, is the nightlife hangout for university students. Among a clutch of heavily frequented bars is La Laiterie, a concert hall showcasing art, workshops, and music ranging from electronic to postrock and reggae. (Tel: +33 388 237237)

T The Hotel du Dragon is a decent three-star hotel for travellers merely looking for a comfortable night’s rest. Doubles from € 78. (dragon.fr). T A charming budget option is Hotel Beaucour with timbered ceilings and an Alpine feel to it. It is located just a minute or so away from the main tourist attractions. Doubles from € 120. (hotelbeaucour.com)

Strasbourg has a paucity of fancy hotels, but the Régent Petite France, a former ice factory right in the heart of the prettiest part of town, has comfortable, spacious rooms. Most of them enjoy views of the river and its locks. Doubles from € 196. (regentpetite-france.com)

T The farmers’ market on place du Marché aux Poissons, which sells a splendid array of fruit and vegetables, honey, local sausages, cheeses and river fish, makes for a lovely morning outing. T Strasbourg’s Christmas market at the Place Kleber draws visitors from around the world. You can sample Christmas goodies like stollen and marzipan in sylvan surroundings.

Chocoholics should check out the Chocolaterie Christian (12, Rue de l’ 0utre) that offers mouthwatering choccy delights. Choose from sumptuous truffles and pralines, light macaroons and edible Strasbourg landmarks – renowned chocolatier Christian’s creations are mini works of art.

MUST DO

HOTEL

DRINK

LUNCH

BLOWOUT

This university town is very close to the Franco-German border and has distinct German influences. One of the country’s foremost gastronomical destinations, Strasbourg is also famous for its wine regions.

DINNER

BUDGET

eat away city break

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EATTDOTSHOPTSTAY

City on the plate

Dharamsala Steaming bowls of thukpa, stuffed momos, tender bulgogi, crispy tempura, crunchy Belgian waffles — thank heavens for Dharamsala’s nippy, appetite-inducing mountain air! Words MATTHEW SINGH TOOR Photographs JUDY REDDER

EAT

The local Tibetans call Dharamsala ‘Dhasa’, in rhyme with Tibet’s capital, Lhasa. No surprise given that this bustling Himachali hill station is home to the Dalai Lama and the Tibetan government-in-exile. But Dharamsala is also a melting pot. In the mix are three generations of Tibetan refugees, indigenous Gaddi folk, Kashmiri and Nepali business people, migrant workers from Bihar and, of course, tourists and devotees from across India and the world. Such a diversity of mouths must be fed, and the ever-widening range of cuisine on the streets of McLeodganj (also referred to as Upper Dharamsala) includes Tibetan, Himachali, Italian, Belgian, Korean and Japanese, with new stalls and restaurants popping up every week. For Tibetan street food, make your way to the stalls on Temple, Jogiwara and Bhagsu Roads, where the ubiquitous momo (` 10 per plate) is served steamed or fried and stuffed with spiced potato, cabbage, spinach, radish or carrot, with a dollop of chilli sauce on the side. For Tibetan noodles as eaten by the locals, cheap and cheerful doesn’t preclude good quality. Badol Café, next to Om Guest House, just off

Facing page: Momos cooked by a Nepali street-vendor outside Namgyal Stupa Bazaar

the main square (it doesn’t sport a sign board), serves a hearty mutton thukpa for breakfast or lunch. Made of noodles with mutton keema in pok choy soup (` 50), it is quite satisfying. More adventurous street food lovers should also try the Chinese dish lang phing. The tastiest kind is a yellow, turmeric-flavoured pancake (` 30) made of steamed gluten extracted from tapioca flour, chopped and served in a soup of chilli, soy sauce, garlic and salt. Dharamsala’s Tibetan restaurateurs have also diversified to meet international tastes. The Korean Café Ri (Tibetan for ‘mountains’), close to the Green Hotel on Bhagsu Road, was opened eight years ago by Mr Jamyang. Chef Tenzin Dimey’s mouth-watering Bulgogi (` 180) consists of tender lean pork, marinated overnight in soy or chilli sauce, then fried and served on a bed of rice with carrots, onion, capsicum, cabbage, ginger and garlic. Side dishes include aubergine in soy sauce with Korean spices, kimchi and the soup of the day, usually miso with either kim (seaweed), tofu or spinach. Café Ri also serves a Kim Pab or sushi, set meal (` 130). Seaweed and rice parcels are meticulously filled with tofu, egg and seasonal

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vegetables. Unlike Japanese sushi, the fillings in Kim Pab are spiced, so there’s no need for wasabi (although it is served on the side). A steep 10-minute walk down Jogiwara Road from McLeodganj’s main square brings you to Lung Ta Japanese restaurant. The vegetarian menu includes a special for each day of the week (except Sunday), with the best – crispy tempura (` 150) – on Thursday. Variations include aubergine, carrot, onion, capsicum, okra and cauliflower, all deep fried in a light batter and served with a tofu and nori (seaweed) miso soup. Side dishes vary – the cucumber salad with toasted sesame seeds and salsa vinaigrette of tomato and cabbage are superb accompaniments. The Tibetan community has embraced coffee culture in recent years with myriad coffee and cake houses offering brews on par with any of the big metropolitan chains. Beans on Jogiwara Road and the Tibetan Children’s Village Meeting Point Café (tcvcraft.org) on Temple Road serve up steaming cups of espresso, latte and cappuccino. Along with the coffee, you can satiate your sweet teeth with a fluffy, glossily-iced chocolate cake at Beans or a moist coconut pie at Meeting Place.

eat away local knowledge

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Clockwise, from top: Slippery lang phing haldi noodles; Cafe Ri’s Korean miso soup; Lungur or fiddlehead ferns — a monsoon delicacy. Facing page: Out of the Blue is famous for its thin-crust pizzas

BUY

Stock up on your Tibetan and Chinese provisions at the stalls on Temple Road where you will find a variety of dried yak’s milk cheeses. Teeth-cracking to chew, they can also be soaked in butter tea or boiled and added to tsampa (barley flour porridge). Dried noodles also abound here, including thukpa noodles, postage stamp-sized squares of thanthuk, and glass noodles. For the ecologically conscious, the Green Shop (tsodhasa.org) on Bhagsu Road sells organic peanut butter, tahini, and beautiful handmade recycled paper stationery with dried flowers impressed on it. Jams are a must-try, especially those produced by the Gaddi Women’s Self-Help Project, which can be found at grocery stores throughout town. Try the rhododendron, barberry, plum, and cape gooseberry.

Further afield, halfway down the steep jeep road between the Dalai Lama temple complex and the Central Tibetan Administration, the newly opened Illiterati Books and Coffee (illiteratibooksandcoffee.com) nourishes both mind and body with a large stock of spiritual, religious and literary tomes and a Belgian/ Mediterranean menu. Light and airy in the daytime and intimately lit by night, the café has a chic but relaxed vibe. There’s a carrom board on the front terrace, three booths with mountain views out back, and an electric piano available to visiting ivory-tinklers. The owner, Yannick

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Ramaekers, is Belgian but has lived in Dharamsala for 17 years. His pièce de résistance is the Belgian waffle with homemade coffee, saffron and almond ice cream (` 130). The aromatic ice cream ball is the first to impress, encased in a delicate shell of solidified chocolate sauce. But the real hero is the rich, buttery waffle – crunchy on the outside, cakey within, and redolent with the aroma of 15 spices. Cinnamon and nutmeg are definitely part of the recipe, although Ramaekers will reveal no more. The recipe is an amalgam of his grandmother’s and a 15th Century Belgian classic recipe. Ten minutes by auto up Tipa Road from McLeodganj’s main square, Out of the Blue Pizzeria (Tel: +91 97367 41745) in Dharamkot is set in a restful forest glade and was founded 13 years ago. Be sure to visit the kitchen, which houses a gigantic clay wood-fired oven, constructed on site, with which Chef Gopal produces scrumptious thin-crust pizzas. Two of the tastiest toppings are the Killer (` 190) – bacon and mushroom – and the Out of the Blue (` 180) – asparagus, broccoli and mushroom. Both are made with fresh mozzarella and tomato sauce.

DO

Restore your inner calm at the Norbulingka Institute (norbulingka. org), 12 km away from the chaotic hub of Mcleodganj. The institute is dedicated to preserving Tibetan culture in exile. The large grounds feature water gardens teeming with koi carp, the Deden Tsuglagkhang temple – home to a 14-foot gilded

eat away local knowledge

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Buddha statue – artisan workshops and the Losel Doll Museum, which showcases 150 costumed dolls depicting the regional, official and monastic customs of Tibet. The complex also has an al fresco vegetarian restaurant, serving Tibetan, Asian and European cuisine. The Abo eggplant (` 180), pan fried with onion, tomato, ginger and marinated labneh (a Middle Eastern curd cheese), is succulent and filling. On your return, take a 10-minute detour to the Dharamsala Tea Company (Tel: +91 1892 211077). Set amid acres of Kangra tea shrubs, the factory offers a free tour, encompassing the whole production process from withering, fermentation and rolling to sorting and packing. A small shop sells several varieties under the Mann label, established in 1882, including the fragrant, handrolled Oolong tea. Back in McLeodganj, restless cooks can busy themselves at Lhamo’s Kitchen cookery school (+91 98164 68719). Lhamo and her husband Lobsang run three courses in momo, soup and bread making. The latter includes tuition on six types of Tibetan bread, including musi pali – a special steamed wedding dish topped with tomato, coriander, garlic and cheese. Each course consists of three two-hour sessions, at ` 300 each.

STAY

A steep five-minute walk up from the Dalai Lama temple, Chonor House (norbulingka.org) has eleven rooms and suites (` 2,760 to ` 4,080 + taxes). Furnished and decorated by artisans from the Norbulingka Institute, the

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eat away local knowledge

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Left: A taste of home for Korean pilgrims — Cafe Ri on Bhagsu Road. Below: Petit dejeuner Tibetan-French style (and the Green Shop’s jams make excellent gifts)

rooms feature murals of rural Tibet, appliquéd fabrics, hand-knotted carpets and intricately carved wooden furniture. The restaurant has a peaceful terrace with a Tibetan and international menu. Here you will find the best shabaklab (` 160) in Dharamsala – crispy, golden-fried, half moon-shaped pastry parcels, stuffed with lean lamb and onion keema and served with a steaming vegetable soup. For a more pastoral setting, try a homestay. Run by Bavinder and Rekha, a local Gaddi couple, Jagatram Niwas (jagatram.com) is a nine-bedroom guest house set in the ancient village of Heini, above McLeodganj and Bhagsunag. The rooms are simply but stylishly furnished, and you can enjoy a homecooked Himachali thali on the large terraces with valley views down to Bhagsunag. Rekha doesn’t stint on the peas or the cheese in her tasty matar paneer and, when the season is right, can be persuaded to cook up a tawa of lungur – fiddlehead ferns picked from the forest and sautéed with red chilli, garam masala, onion and tomato. In the fields surrounding Jagatram Niwas, the village women grow organic millet, maize, potatoes, onion, garlic and marrow throughout

the year. Prices range from ` 700 to ` 1,000 per night, including taxes and include a simple breakfast. The guest house is a bone-rattling 15-minute taxi ride up from McLeodganj, followed by a ten-minute walk. Further uphill and more upmarket, Hotel Eagle’s Nest

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(hoteleaglesnest.com) is relaxed and exclusive, with four suites and three doubles. Reconstructed in late colonial style from the ruins of a Pentecostal mission by British hosts Bo and Sheila, each themed room is luxuriously furnished with fabrics and paintings from across India. The stand-out room is Craven Cottage, named after the English Fulham Football Club’s home ground and featuring vintage photos of the team. Sheila will compose menus to virtually any taste, served either on the lawn or in the central dining room/library. Chef Vicky’s tour de force is a nutty, tongue-tingling nettle soup (real British World War II fare). Packed with vitamin B, it has antibiotic properties and a slightly bitter karela aftertaste. Access from McLeodganj is 20 minutes by jeep up a rough track, followed by a 10-to-15-minute walk through deodar forest. The views across the Kangra valley are quite spectacular, but remember to bring your hiking boots if you want to include the trek to the mountain plateau of Triund. Rooms cost about ` 4,000 per person per night, including meals, snacks, porters, trekking, horse riding, badminton and tennis.

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Postcard from Perth

Karen Anand writes in from Perth, home to the world’s smelliest, ugliest yet most expensive fungi — truffles Words and photographs KAREN ANAND

P

erth, the capital of Western Australia, is a city of only 1.5 million people, which is astounding considering its magnificent Kings Park that is almost the size of Central Park in New York City, the 12,000 kms of sandy white beach that it boasts of and a whole host of trendy restaurants and bars. This is my second trip to the city. My first was a fleeting visit when I stayed a couple of nights at the then, somewhat dowdy, Pan Pacific hotel. I have to say that Pan Pacific (panpacific.com) has smartened up its operations beautifully in the last year and now runs a slick hotel in Perth with a very helpful concierge and exceptional service.

On this trip, I have some of the most divine dishes in Perth’s more upscale dining restaurants. I start at the very top with Loose Box (loosebox.com.au) – a strange name for one of the best restaurants in Australia. Alain Fabrègues, its much-awarded French chef, has put Perth on the fine dining map in the last ten years. We have to drive half an hour out of the city to the village of Mundaring to get to the place. Fabrègues’ signature dish of what looks like a soft-boiled egg (but isn’t) filled with mornay sauce, Parmesan cheese and truffle served with truffle soldiers, is a mouthful of creamy indulgence and certainly worth the drive. It is served with a glass of Billecart Salmon Brut Champagne, which is as perfect a pairing as you can get. Fabrègues has also come out with a beautiful ode to fine food called Degustation – it is a collection of his Loose Box recipes accompanied by stunning photographs and original sketches by the chef himself. Fabrègues also has a more modest bistro, Bistro des Artistes (bistrodesartistes.com.au) in the chic residential area of Subiaco in central Perth. The menu there is written on a blackboard, as you would expect of a bistro, and the half-a-dozen starters, main courses and desserts change every day according to what

Food writer, entrepreneur and gourmet, Karen Anand has journeyed across the world writing about gastronomy.

Above: Fabio Deitos of Oak Valley Truffles. Bottom: Entertainment at the Long Lunch, Mundaring Truffle Festival

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is freshly available. The style is much more casual than Loose Box and the dishes are hearty French bistro staples like Coq Au Vin and Clafoutis with a very well-priced wine list boasting great wines of both French and Australian origin. A man of many talents, Alain Fabrègues is also the driving force behind the Mundaring Truffle Festival (trufflefestival.mundaring. wa.gov.au), an annual pilgrimage to Western Australian black truffles. These are actually cultivated in a small village called Manjimup, about three hours away. Fabrègues has taken it upon himself to promote this prized fungus, previously the exclusive domain of the French and Italians. The Manjimup black truffle is the same variety that grows in Périgord in South West France. The Australian truffle is a milder version of its French counterpart and takes very well to classic dishes like terrines, soufflés and game dishes. But since it is gentler and quite aromatic, it can also be served (as Alain Fabrègues does) with seafood and even in creamy desserts. Intrigued by the truffles, I trek to the little village of Mundaring which is all in a tizzy when I visit in the month of July. The truffle festival happens over a weekend and is choc-a-bloc with everything trufflerelated — products, oils, dishes, master classes, long lunches with

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Photograph TOU RISM WESTERN AUSTRALIA

com.au) and The Re Store (Tel: +61 93281877). While on the subject of great shops, a must-visit for me is Providore (providore. com.au) and the Margaret River Chocolate Company (chocolatefactory.com.au) for the most exquisite chocolates, gourmet food products, and chocolate cosmetics. Back in Perth, the upmarket eating extravaganza continues downtown with a fantastic dinner at Nobu in the Burswood Crown Complex (crownmetropolperth.com. au). This is the fourth Nobu I have eaten at internationally and the dishes are executed with the same skill and precision as they are anywhere in the world. The new style of scampi with a tempering of hot oil, the sushi, sashimi and wagyu teriyaki….it’s a complete treat for the senses and intellect. New for me this time are the Pan-Seared Scallops with Black Truffle Snow (the snow is made of tapioca mixed with truffles and truffle oil, dried and crumbed to form snowflakes). Going down a few notches but still in the exquisite category, is Heritage Brasserie, Bar and Boardroom (theheritageperth.com. au), a French-style bistro with some American favourites. Heritage stands in the beautifully renovated Royal Insurance Building in St George’s Street right in the centre of the city. The produce is superbly fresh. I have a Grand Platter of Seafood with scallops on the half shell from nearby Rottnest Island, poached scampi, marron (a lake crayfish) and prawns together with a salad of field mushrooms, Mountain Man cheese, rocket and truffle oil. The favourites here appear to be the seafood and the Croque Monsieur and Reuben sandwiches, that are both scrumptious and affordable. Perth has suddenly become a

truffles as the star etc. The producers themselves are present in full force; Oak Valley (oakvalleytruffles.com. au), being the largest and most significant since it sponsors truffles for the festival. The MD of Oak Valley, Wally Edwards (incidentally, he is also the Chairman of Cricket Australia) is there with his entire family serving up reasonably priced dishes like truffle and ricotta ravioli, truffle and potato gnocchi and selling the company’s very popular truffle butter and truffle oil. By the second day, they have sold out of all their food and products. Next door, Great Southern Truffles are giving people tastings of, among other things, truffle perlage – small soft pearls of truffle juice which look like caviar, made through the molecular gastronomy technique

Above, left to right: Alain Fabrègues serving guests at the Long Lunch, Mundaring Truffle Festival; Children playing in King’s Park. Bottom: Watershed wines

of spherification. It’s a terrific product that is ideal as a garnish and is completely vegetarian. They also have delicious truffle salsa where truffles are mixed with aubergines or mushrooms: truffle salt, truffle cheese and organic truffle oil. Whilst in Mundaring, I stay at the Mahogany Creek (theinn.com.au) in a newly-renovated property on the road from Perth. Apart from being a very comfortable place to stay, it has an exceedingly good restaurant that serves the most amazing honey and truffle ice cream. My find for this trip is a fantastic dessert Muscat wine by Talijancich – a 1961 Solero (Blend No 8) from Swan Valley – one of the best dessert wines I have ever had. It is introduced to me by Mark, the owner of Inn Mahogany Creek, for which I will be ever grateful. Western Australia has some extraordinarily good produce — truffles themselves are expensive but truffle products like oil, salt and salsa have a much wider appeal. They are available at the airport and at gourmet stores in the city like European Food (europeanfoods.com. au), Fresh Provisions (provisions.

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ERN AUSTRALIA Photograph TOURISM WEST

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eat away postcard

bar and café city, something that has changed from my last visit. The area around Murray Street, Kings Street and George’s in the CBD as well as Northbridge, Leederville and

wines and cocktails. It is jampacked at 6 pm. Five (fivebar. com.au) is a larger place where I have lovely traditional perry on tap (cider made from pears) and a gargantuan charcuterie board — a selection of local cold cuts and meats served on a wooden board. The open roast beef sandwich with horseradish cream alone is worth coming here for. Wine, wine, wine…you would think that the Aussies were born to it the way they drink it! Some of the country’s best wines are made in

“The truffle festival happens over a weekend and is choc-a-bloc with everything truffle-related — products, oils, dishes, master classes, long lunches with truffles as the star etc. The producers themselves are present there in full force” Highgate a little further away, are strewn with trendy bars that, for the most part, serve exceedingly good finger food. One evening, we are whisked into Andaluz (andaluzbar.com.au), an intimate bar serving Spanish tapas,

Margaret River, just south of Perth. The area is famous for its Cabernet Sauvignon and a curious blend called Sauvignon Blanc Semillon. The names to look out for are Water Shed Wines (watershedwines.com.au), Leeuwin Estate and Cullens. I have a

delightful lunch with the wine-maker, Severine, and owner, Geoff Barrett, of Watershed at the winery’s exquisite glass-fronted restaurant overlooking their vineyards. Watershed produces three distinctive labels — Awakening, Senses and Shades, most of which are marked very highly by Australian wine writer James Halliday. The Awakening in particular has an astounding Cabernet Sauvignon. Perth and its surrounding areas are not usually on the hit list for travellers visiting Australia. But they should be — it is a well-kept Australian secret worth discovering.

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Clockwise from above left: Seafood platter; Cottesloe beach in Perth; Waiters at Heritage restaurant

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masterclass

COOK LIKE A PRO

In this section T Alain Coumont’s brownie masterclass p 144 T Homemade barbecue sauce p 146

Smart ways to improve your kitchen skills Words KAINAZ CONTRACTOR Photograph MAYA SMEND

T Great-value wines p 147

VED O R P P A GRIDDLE PAN

We love this ridged skillet for giving our meats and vegetables the barbecue effect. It retains heat well so food doesn’t take long to cook, making it perfect for fillets of meat and slices of vegetable that call for a quick sear. The ridged cooking surface allows the excess fat and oil to drain and the spouts on both sides allow for easy pouring. The cast-iron body may get a bit heavy to handle but it comes in a convenient size and is extremely sturdy. Cast iron improves with time so this might just become one of those utensils you could pass on to future generations. What’s even better is that the pans come in a variety of colours to funk up your kitchen; we’re currently eyeing the orange and blue ones. Available at cookware stores from ` 3,000 onwards and at Le Creuset retailers for ` 7,700.

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ALAIN COUMONT’S

Chocolate brownies Chef Alain Coumont, founder of Le Pain Quotidien, shows you his technique of making chocolate brownies like a pro Photographs ANEESH BHASIN

Chocolate brownie Serves 9 n 1 hour n MODERATELY EASY A cross between a cake and a cookie in texture, chocolate brownies are either fudgy or cakey depending on their density. They are usually served with either milk or coffee. You may include roughly chopped toasted nuts, grated orange zest or chocolate chips for variations in this recipe. Any local variety of chocolate can be used but for best results, we recommend Callebaut or Valrhona chocolate. butter 250g cooking chocolate 300g caster sugar 250g (try Tate & Lyle available at gourmet stores) eggs 5 refined flour 50g

EXCLUSIVE P STEP-BY-STE RECIPE

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masterclass chef skills

1

Put some water in a pan and bring it to a boil. In a cooking bowl, put butter and chocolate together and keep the bowl on hot water. This method of cooking is called the double boiler method (see tip).

2

In another bowl, whisk together the eggs and sugar until the mixture is light and fluffy.

3

Sift the flour carefully into the mix, in order to avoid lumps.

4

When the chocolate is melted with the butter, take the bowl off the heat and slowly fold the egg mix into the chocolate mix, so the heat of the chocolate doesn’t cook the eggs.

5

For baking, put paper cups into moulds, pour 130g of mix into it and bake in preheated oven at 165°C for about 35-40 minutes.

6

To check whether the brownie is cooked or not, put a knife through it. If it comes out nice and clean that means that the brownie is good to go. Serve it warm along with a sprinkle of sugar and a scoop of ice cream if you like.

TIP A double boiler, also known as a bain-marie, is a stove-top apparatus used to cook delicate sauces such as beurre blanc, to melt chocolate without burning or seizing or to cook any other thick liquid or porridge that would normally burn if not stirred constantly. It consists of an upper vessel containing the ingredient to be cooked that is placed above a lower pot of water. When brought to a boil, the steam produced in the lower pot transfers heat to the upper pot.

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masterclass diy

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Barbecue sauce Try our sweet-sour homemade barbecue sauce Barbecue sauce Makes 250ml n 25 minutes n EASY cider vinegar 200ml (try American Garden available at gourmet stores) dry mustard powder 2 tbsp soft dark brown sugar 6 tbsp tomato ketchup 4 tbsp bourbon 4 tbsp dried chilli flakes a big pinch soy sauce 2 tbsp garlic 4 cloves, crushed n Put all the ingredients in a saucepan and add a splash of water. Stir everything together and then simmer gently for 20 minutes. Leave to cool. n To use, brush over meat or chicken and barbecue or bake. If you are cooking something for longer than 20 minutes, then only brush over the sauce for the last 20 minutes, otherwise it may burn. Make an extra jar of the sauce as it stays well in the refrigerator for at least a week.

3 CHANGES TO MAKE TO YOUR BARBECUE SAUCE

n Make it more Asian tasting by omitting the ketchup and swapping brown sugar with honey, using mirin or sake instead of bourbon, and rice-wine vinegar rather than cider vinegar. You could also throw in some finely chopped spring onion and grated ginger. n Make it stickier by using honey instead of sugar and adding 1 tbsp less vinegar. n Make it smoky by adding 2 tbsp chipotle paste and dropping the dried chilli.

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Recipe LULU GRIMES Photograph MAJA SMEND Styling LISA HARRISON Food styling KATE CALDER

B

arbecue sauces come in many different guises – some are very sweet and sticky, others tomatoey, mustardy, hoisin-style or thin and vinegary. They pop up in cuisines that like cooking over hot coals, from the USA and Australia to South East Asia and South America. The heat in barbecue sauces can also vary in source, coming either from chilli or mustard – and sometimes both. And then there is the addition of alcohol, be that bourbon, rum or even beer. The kind of sauce you make needs to suit the food you are planning to barbecue: ribs need a thick, sticky sauce to adhere to both meat and bones, while slower-cooked cuts benefit from more vinegar, which helps to tenderise them. Barbecue sauces for dipping need a wellrounded flavour of their own, as they won’t gain any meaty or smoky flavours as they are cooked. This version of barbecue sauce has a sweet-sour flavour. If you prefer your sauce less hot, then drop the amount of chilli flakes, or leave them out all together. It is also the kind of sauce that will cook quickly, as it has quite a bit of sugar in it. If you slowcook with it, then let it down with water – this will slowly evaporate and stop it from burning.

10-MINUTE WINE GUIDE

Posh yet affordable Wine expert Mohit Nischol picks eight value-for-money wines

Mohit Nischol is a leading wine trainer and manager of the Tulleeho Wine Academy. The Academy holds courses in wines and spirits in New Delhi, Mumbai and Bangaluru.

W

ine drinking in India is an expensive affair, with a bottle of Bordeaux or Burgundy costing twice or thrice what it costs in European countries. Regular wine drinkers are always on the lookout for value-for-money wines. A recent varietal generating buzz in the wine circles is Grüner Veltliner. An indigenous variety from Austria, it is the most widely-planted grape in the country. The wines produced are medium-bodied, lightly fruity and spicy, with a naturally high acidity. Grüner Veltliner has gradually gained popularity, in part since it has bright acidity and an appealing spicy quality. It is surprising how well it goes with Asian food. Another wine style that has caught my attention the last few months is Vinho Verde from Portugal. It translates as ‘green wine’ or ‘young wine’, as opposed to mature wine. It may be red, white or rosé, and must be consumed within a year of bottling. Burgundy is recognised for producing some of the finest wines in the world and is often associated with the Pinot Noir grape varietal. Burgundy wines don’t come cheap, but a great alternative to these is New Zealand Pinot Noir. In fact, Pinot Noir produced in the South Island of New Zealand, in the region of Central Otago, has been described as the next best thing to Burgundy. The Indian wine market has several undiscovered gems. Here is a selection of a few of my favourite value-formoney wines, all under ` 3,000. I hope you enjoy them as much as I have.

E EN IN TO OP W W N ED HOE A F R O OR E STTTL BO

A

p s. in ee ge .K an ays ur m po roo ch e d ss at ture fiv a gla re to to per up ry ve t. S em for t r e gh h i c l i s te at fre af om r. ne fr am ly dr ve ato wi ay i he aw ent elat iger v r r k t le e r ef y tt or -c bo d p sta he r t Re the an ill w re tu ne ra wi pe ed k m te cor re

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Gazela Vinho Verde (` 1,330, Godrej Nature’s Basket, Mumbai) This is a bright, fruity white wine with a lively bouquet of citrus and floral aromas. The soft flavours of apricot and grapefruit are balanced by crisp acidity and strong minerality.

De Bortoli Windy Peak Nouveau Shiraz (` 1,991, Fine Wines’n’More, Mumbai and Dewars Wine Stores, Bengaluru) This is a red wine with a nose of sweet raspberry and blackberry. It pairs well with duck, rabbit or pasta with truffles.

Domaine Gobelsburg Grüner Veltliner (` 3,000, Wine World, Bengaluru and Drops Total Spirits, Bengaluru) An impressive Grüner, it is gold in colour, with aromas of spring flowers, apple, cinnamon, apricot and nectarine. Dry and medium-bodied, it pairs well with Asian cuisine and seafood.

Cono Sur Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon (` 1,930, Madhuloka Wines, Bengaluru) This robust Cabernet Sauvignon from Chile is fruity and rich, with blackberry, plum and a hint of toasted oak. Pair with red meat, stews, Provençal-styled cheeses, kebabs and barbecue dishes.

Cono Sur Bicycle Chardonnay (` 1,345, Vineyard Wine Merchants, Mumbai) This young Chardonnay is yellow in colour with golden hints. It has refreshing citrus aromas, fruity as well as mineral notes. It pairs well with smoked salmon, seafood and pasta with creamy sauce.

Finca Flichman Misterio Malbec (` 1,495, Kings Wines, Mumbai and Drops Total Spirits, Bengaluru) This Argentinean Malbec is dark ruby in colour. The nose shows aromas of dark berry, toasted vanilla and black plums. The palate is rich with flavours of black fruit and a hint of spice. Pair with grilled food or pastas with hearty sauces.

Villa Maria ‘Private Bin’ Pinot Noir Marlborough (` 2,562, Reliance Mart, Mumbai) This wine has a perfumed bouquet of ripe cherries and raspberries — hallmarks of the Marlborough Pinot Noir. Partner it with light game, roast chicken or turkey.

Zonin, DOC Valpolicella (` 1,715, Star Wines, Mumbai and Max Hyper Market, Bengaluru) Soft and supple tannins are beautifully balanced in this Italian red with berries. Dry on the palate, the finish is long. Pair with aged cheeses, roasted meats and pastas with meat sauces.

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My Earth Store Organic farmer-turned-entrepreneur Anish Joel tells BBC Good Food about My Earth Store, the shop stocking a variety of organic and natural foods that he set up in Dharamsala in 2010 As told to VIDYA BALACHANDER Photographs ANISH JOEL

I have always loved experimenting with new ideas and have been involved in many entrepreneurial ventures. After spending over a decade in the world of corporate entrepreneurship, I decided to get involved in community-based sustainable lifestyles. Of course, I had no knowledge about organic farming. So after doing a lot of research, I, along with a group of like-minded friends, decided to adopt an organic farm in Dharamsala, Himachal Pradesh in 2008. The land was fertile with enough water throughout the year and the climate was also ideal. The previous occupants of the farm had employed natural practices, so it made things easier for us. For two years, we dedicated ourselves entirely to understanding organic farming, which included learning about seed varieties, soil preparation, organic pesticides and manure. Although it was hugely satisfying, it involved hard work and required all our time and energy. After two years, I realised that sustaining oneself purely on organic farming was difficult. So we decided to start a store where we would stock organic products from around the region. This is how My Earth Store was born in 2010. We started working with a number of NGOs, rural groups and artisans who were struggling to market their handmade, eco-friendly products in India. We began stocking processed food items such as breakfast cereals,

pickles and jams. Now, the food section of My Earth Store offers a wide variety of pulses, grains, flours, millets, spices, cooking oils, breakfast cereals, herbal supplements and natural sweeteners, apart from jams, squashes, bread spreads and ready to eat snacks. Some of the food products we stock are very unique and you’re unlikely to find them elsewhere. For instance, we source jams, teas and squashes made of the rare and nutritious seabuckthorn berries from a group in the Spiti Valley in the upper Himalayan reaches. Similarly, some of our jams and jellies come from the interior of the Chamba Valley in Himachal Pradesh. We choose our partners on the basis of just one criterion — authenticity. We need to be convinced about the quality of the products before we decide to stock them. We also work closely with some of the groups to help them develop new products for the market. We want to change the belief that organic products made by NGOs are of low quality and will not sell. We have pushed a number of our producers to move towards attractive and eco-friendly packaging, or towards using foodgrade plastic packaging. Today, we work with more than 15 to 20 NGOs and cooperatives in the food sector alone. Following the success of My Earth Store in Dharamsala, we also started a second branch in Panchkula,

HOW ETHICAL IS MY EARTH STORE? Organic: Since Joel works with a number of small producers who can’t afford certification, not all the food products stocked in the store are organically certified. However, Joel works very closely with NGOs and rural artisanal food producers to ensure that they follow natural and eco-friendly practices. Some of the products such as wheat, rice and vegetables come from Joel’s organic farm. My Earth Store, Sidhbari, opposite Karmapa Monastery, Yol Road, Dharamsala, Himachal Pradesh. Tel: +91 1892 235875. Also at Sco - 341, FF, Sector - 9, Panchkula, Haryana. Tel: +91 172 4665150 (myearthstore.com)

Punjab in March-April 2012. The response to the store has been very encouraging. We are also planning to start an online retail store in the near future.

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top producer organic produce

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Anish Joel at My Earth Store

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Recipe index

MAINS Meat T T T T 126

T T T T 58 T T T T 56

T T T T 130 T T T T 90

T T T T 64 T T T T 102

Honey pork chops with Jack Daniels glaze Jamaican pepper pot Moroccan meat balls with herb couscous Okra lamb stew Pork tenderloin with mustard cream Rice noodles with hoisin lamb Yakhni pulao

SIDES & SAUCES T T T T 146 Barbecue sauce T T T T 128 Baba ghanoush T T T T 98 Baingan borani T T T T 92 Brown butter sauce T T T T 100 Hunza-style khobani ki chutney T T T T 36 Olive and caper dressing T T T T 50 Picallili T T T T 36 Puttanesca pronto

Poultry T T T T 48 T T T T 100 T T T T 132 T T T T 51 T T T T 56 T T T T 90

T T T T 68 Chicken Adobo Chicken kadai Chicken Mak’louba Coconut chilli chicken Moroccan stuffed chicken Roast chicken with braised porcini

Fish & seafood T T T T 36 Basa with capers and lime T T T T 92 Basa with enoki mushrooms and brown butter T T T T 36 Prawn and butternut laksa T T T T 66 Prawn and harissa stew with couscous T T T T 17 Prawn pasta

T T T T 54 Vegetarian T T T T 62 T T T T 56 T T T T 70

T T T T 60 T T T T 58

T T T T 62 T T T T 92

Steamed fish with lemon, ginger and chilli Tuna tartare fish cakes Carrot and cumin burgers Herb couscous Mushroom and brown basmati pulao Sambhariya khichdi Spaghetti with Parmesan and black pepper Spicy stir fried cauliflower Tortellini of fresh mushrooms

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DESSERTS, BREAKFASTS & BAKING T T T T 108 Baileys and white chocolate fudge T T T T 154 Best-ever chocolate and raspberry brownies T T T T 106 Black and white pinwheel cookies T T T T 144 Chocolate brownie T T T T 106 Chocolate crinkle cookies T T T T 108 Double chocolate almond biscotti T T T T 94 French toast with porcini ice cream T T T T 110 Fudgy coconut brownies T T T T 74 Old-fashioned apple pie T T T T 110 Posh fondant fancies T T T T 72 Spiced toffee apple cake JAIN T T T T 74 Apple and cornflake pots T T T T 76 Glazed apple tart T T T T 106 Milk chocolate and pistachio truffles T T T T 132 Mouhalabia T T T T 76 Oaty apple crumble T T T T 66 Pasta with peas, Parmesan and tarragon T T T T 102 Sheer khurma DRINKS T T T T 98

Shahi Zafarani sharbat

Photograph SHIRISH SEN

STARTERS, SNACKS & SOUP T T T T 68 Lamb, watercress and beetroot salad T T T T 62 Lemony three bean and feta salad T T T T 80 Lentils with pumpkin and feta T T T T 88 Marinated mushrooms T T T T 79 Pumpkin and puy lentil salad T T T T 83 Puy lentil salad with mozzarella T T T T 82 Puy lentil, red onion and herb salad T T T T 80 Puy lentil salad with soy beans, snow peas and broccoli T T T T 85 Quinoa, puy lentil and feta salad T T T T 88 Shiitake tea T T T T 36 Smoked salmon wraps with caper and lemon mayo T T T T 54 Tomato, lentil and lime soup T T T T 130 Traditional lentil soup T T T T 70 Tuna, red onion and white bean salad T T T T 64 Very green soup T T T T 84 Warm puy lentil, cherry tomato and halloumi salad

T VEGETARIAN T READY UNDER 30 MINUTES T LOW FAT

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AHMEDABAD Organic Haus Oriental House, S V Kinariwala Road, Law Garden Tel: +91 79 26445593 BENGALURU Foodhall MG Mall, Trinity Usoor. Foodworld Gourmet 301, Gottigere village, Uttarahalli village, Bannerghatta Main Road Tel: +91 80 32466586 Gourmet – Food World No 88, Shariff Bhatia Towers, MG Road Tel: +91 80 41474789 Local Banya www.localbanya.com Nature’s Basket #755, 80 Feet Road, 4th Block, Next to Costa Coffee, Koramangala Tel: +91 80 41317401 Sorbet – The gourmet food store Address: No 287, Varthur Road, Siddapura, Whitefield Tel: +91 80 28543245 CHENNAI Amma Nana Chamiers Road, opp Park Sheraton Hotel, Nandanam Tel: +91 44 24350596 Mercado No 64, Rukmani Road, Kalakshetra Colony, Besant Nagar Tel: +91 44 28173965 Nuts ‘n’ Spices New no. 75, Mahatma Gandhi Road, Nungambakkam Tel: +91 44 28268180, 42039351 HYDERABAD Nature’s Basket Urmila Towers, Road No. 10, Opp. Rainbow Hospital, Banjara Hills Tel: +91 40 23355399 NEW DELHI A- Mart A-1, Mahipalpur Extension, NH-8 Tel: +91 11 26789999 Ahuja Vegetable Store Shop No- 37, INA Market Tel: +91 11 24644116 Allied Fruits and Florists 58-B, Khan Market, Lodhi Road Tel: +91 11 24642509 Ashok General Store 113, Main Market, Opposite Dilli Haat, INA Market Tel: +91 11 24617561 Dubden Green 4-A, Near Electric Sub Station,

Where to find everything from noodles to pizza bases

Shahpur Jat Tel: +91 11 32905310, +91 9810131343 Flanders Dairy – The Cheese Ball 31 Mehr Chand Market, Lodhi Road Tel: +91 11 24653789 Fortune Gourmet 144/9, Ground Floor, Kishangarh, Vasant Kunj Tel: +91 11 65642270/ 9868899956 Gogia’s 280, Main road, INA Market Tel: +91 11 24624809/ 24644618 INA Market Aurobindo Marg, INA Colony, Opposite Dilli Haat Le Marche  58, Basant Lok, Vasant Vihar, Near Priya Cinema Tel: +91 11 43232100/41669111 Master’s Bakers G-33, Usha Chambers, Community Centre, Ashok Vihar Tel: +91 11 27419061/ 27430734 Modern Bazaar 18-B, Community Centre, Basant Lok, Vasant Vihar Tel: +91 11 41669777 Nature’s Basket Ground floor, D /15, Between BP Petrol Pump and Def. Col. Flyover Tel: +91 11 46698777 46, Basant Lok, Vasant Vihar, Ground floor & basement Tel: +91 11 40571919

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Palkit Impex C-82, Basement, Shivalik, Malviya Nagar. Tel: +91 11 26673437 Passion Cheese Select Citywalk Mall, District Centre, Saket. Tel: +91 11 40599916 Pigpo 9 Jor Bagh Market Tel: +91 11 24611723/ 24626930

Nature’s Basket S-201, 2nd Floor, Ambience Mall, Ambience Island, NH-8 Tel: +91 124 4665753 KOLKATA Afraa Deli City Centre, Salt Lake Tel: +91 33 23581111 Gourmet Gallery 27/9C, Chandi Ghosh Road, Regent Park Tel: +91 33 23818510 MUMBAI Country of Origin Maneesha Building, 69/A, Napean Sea Road, Malabar Hill Tel: +91 22 23642221 Dolce Vita Ground Floor, Grand Galleria, High Street Phoenix, Phoenix Mills, Lower Parel. Tel: +91 22 24964307 Food Bazaar Infinity Mall, Raheja Classic, New Link Road, Andheri (W) Tel: +91 22 67583090 Foodhall Palladium, High Street Phoenix, Senapati Bapat Marg, Lower Parel Tel: +91 22 30264581 Gourmet West Westside, Army and Navy Building, 148 M.G. Road, Kala Ghoda. Tel: +91 22 66360499 Hypercity Ground Floor, Malad (W) Tel: +91 22 40501300 Lallu & brothers Shop no 1&2, Pali Market, Pali Hill Road, Pali Hill, Bandra (W) Tel: +91 22 26409295 Nature’s Basket 227, Samarth Vaibhav Building, Opposite Tarapur Towers, Adarsh Nagar, Lokhandwala, Andheri (W) Tel: +91 22 26300766 Shop No 4, BG-India , Hiranandani Gardens, Powai Tel: +91 22 25707706 2-5 Parul Apartment, Juhu Tara Road, Juhu Tel: +91 22 26117893 133, Hill Road, Bandra (W) Tel: +91 22 26425050 Opp. Mahalaxmi Temple , Warden Road, Mahalaxmi, Tel: +91 22 23526775

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Pindi Fruit Mart Defence Colony Market Tel: +91 11 41552530/ 24333593

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Steak House 13/8 Jor Bagh Market Tel: +91 11 24611008/ 24611129

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The French Farmer Tel: Call Roger Langbur +91 9810166196, +91 11 26359701 Yamato Ya –The Japanese Store B-6/9, Safdarjung Enclave, Near Deer Park Tel: +91 11 41650164 GURGAON Kim’s Mart DT Mega Mall, LG 36, Gurgaon Tel: +91 124 2562189

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Patel stores Near Mehboob Studio, Krishnachandra Marg, Bandra (W) Tel: +91 22 26558909 Ratna stores Haware Parekh, Sion-Trombay Road,

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Opposite Union Park, Chembur. Tel: +91 22 25203389 Reliance Fresh Crystal Paradise Mall, DuttaJi Salavi Road, Off Veera Desai Road, Opposite Janaki Centre, Link Road, Andheri (W). Tel: +91 22 26743750 Framroze Court, Phalke Road, Dadar (E). Tel: +91 22 24155017

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Santé Shop Number 1, Sahina Apartments, Pali Market, Bandra (W) Tel: +91 22 40060020 Spencer’s Hyper Market 1406A/28A, Malad (W) Tel: +91 22 42686130 Tutto Bene Delicatessen Spencer’s Hyper Market, Ground Floor, Located in Inorbit Mall, Malad (W) Tel: +91 9823485988 PUNE Dorabjee & Co Pvt Ltd B-1, Moledina Road, Camp Cantonment Tel: +91 20 26052883 Nature’s Basket

Ali Tower, •3, Mansur Galaxy Society,

Max Mueller Lane, Near AXIS Bank, Dhole Patil Road Tel: +91 20 26160540 Shop No. 155/1A, Kumar Crystal Aundh. Tel: +91 20 25889530

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Providore GF 104, Anand Park, Baner Road, Aundh Tel: +91 20 65601551 Tutto Bene Delicatessen Shop No 1, Princeton Flair, Lane No 8, Koregaon Park Tel: +91 20 66077193 Tutto Bene Delicatessen G 14 Sacred World Mall, Wanowrie. Tel: +91 20 26806933 Gourmet Websites Delicious Now www.deliciousnow.com Foodesto www.foodesto.com Foodzig www.foodzig.com Gourmet Company www.gourmetco.in Olive Tree Trading olivetreetrading.com Zansaar www.zansaar.com

Illustration SVABHU KOHLI

Shop talk

good food loves one clever twist

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showstopper! Adore brownies? Up the ante with these glam raspberry-spiked sensations

Best-ever chocolate and raspberry brownies Makes 15 squares n 50 minutes n EASY dark chocolate 200g, broken into chunks milk chocolate 100g, broken into chunks salted butter 250g soft brown sugar 400g eggs 4, large plain flour 140g cocoa powder 50g raspberries 200g (try Ocean Spray available at gourmet stores or substitute with strawberries)

Recipe SARAH COOK Photograph DAVID MUNNS Styling JENNY IGGLEDEN Food styling LIZZIE HARRIS

n Heat oven to 180°C. Line a 20 x 30cm baking tray tin with baking parchment. Put the chocolate, butter and sugar in a pan and gently melt, stirring occasionally with a wooden spoon. Remove from the heat. n Stir the eggs, one by one, into the melted chocolate mixture. Sieve over the flour and cocoa, and stir in. Add in half the raspberries, scrape into the tray, then scatter over the remaining raspberries. Bake on the middle shelf for 30 minutes or, if you prefer a firmer texture, for about 5 minutes more. Cool before slicing into squares. Store in an airtight container for up to 3 days. n PER SERVING 389 kcals, protein 5g, carbs 44g, fat 22g, sat fat 13g, fibre 2g, sugar 38g, salt 0.4g

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A venture of Lite Bite Foods (P) Ltd.

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