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a talking, moving, cooking issue! This edition is a cracker. We turn one this month. And we just launched our kitchen-studio in Mumbai (read about it on p 32). Plus, it’s Diwali time. With all this happy convergence, we figured the November line up had to be grand. So what makes our first anniversary issue special? It represents some of the best cooking on the planet— 25 of the world’s favourite dishes collected in a single list. Also, this might look like a normal issue but there’s something physically cooking beneath its surface, right under these pages. Read on.
Global Classics
25
dishes
Behind the scenes Gathering dishes from so many countries in one list was no cakewalk. We free-associated, spoke with chefs and had marathon sessions with our mentor Camellia Panjabi, a non-stop ally in this venture. I could fill up this whole page with dishes from the masterlist that didn’t make it to the final 25: Ravioli, masala dosa, tagine, fajitas, ceviche. This is by no means a comprehensive list. Nor are we saying, for example, that cheese soufflé is more popular than quiche Lorraine. The idea is simply to celebrate the vibrant range of food from around the world that makes people happy.
THE WORLD LOVES TO EAT!
17/10/12 11:37 AM
DINE LIKE A PRO Eat out well for different budgets— from `500 to `5,000. P 172
Getting real As BBC Good Food goes augmented for the first time, our pages literally pop to life. The stars of our augmented reality (AR) special—videos of Ritu Dalmia making gnocchi, Nikhil Chib tossing up pad Thai and Manu Chandra doing cheese soufflé— await you on pages marked with our AR logo (p128, 139 and 147). The experience starts right here. Get the AR app, follow instructions on this page (see steps on the right) and voila, you can view me live in our new test kitchen. There’s more—patissière Kishi Arora’s brilliantly clever ideas for Diwali leftovers, a knockout Med menu by Chef Sabyasachi Gorai, and our special budget-and-splurge guide to dining across five Indian cities.
eat out restaurant spy
Rocky Mohan with Chef Vikramjit Roy at Wasabi by Morimoto
`500
you find the best Our panel of culinary experts helps whatever your wallet size restaurant bang for your buck,
New Delhi Rocky Mohan, director of
Delicious Tandoori Broccoli
This collector’s issue is our way of celebrating good food with you, the wonderful readers of this magazine, on our birthday.
at Monsoon
Rocky Mohan is the executive industries and the Mohan Meakin group of Club co-founder of the Delhi Gourmet
GOVINDA AT ISKCON
to Govinda is iconic in its ability smell deliver truly sattvik food. The in this of desi ghee permeates the air with very comfortable space, adorned a Krishna mural in the background. Eating at Govinda is a vegetarian’s delight. The no-onion, no-garlic and buffets available for both lunch dinner have a number of takers and the dishes change regularly. ered off The special Satvik Falahar like during auspicious occasions a large Navratri and Ekadashi has are fan following. The desserts exceptional, as one would expect the from a restaurant that follows tradition of Chappan Bhog. Road, Iskcon Temple Complex, Main East of Kailash, New Delhi. 26214820 Tel: +91 11 26280069/
`1,000
MAMAGOTO
This popular restaurant and with a cheerful atmosphere Asian eclectic décor offers excellent dishes cuisine. The meal-in-a-bowl
Shrimp and appetisers such as Rock Tempura, corn cakes and crispy spring rolls make for excellent Grill starters. The coal-red Robata the Eggplant is impressive while Sticky Rice with tofu, mushroom hot and ginger cooked in fragrant is basil and south-east Asian herbs delectable. The signature Sichuan Noodles Pepper Prawns on Udon The makes Mamagoto a must visit. veggie of range decent a has menu options too. 53, 1st Floor, Middle Lane, Khan 11 Market, New Delhi. Tel: +91 Centre 45166060 (with outlets at City in Gurgaon and Saket)
`2,500
BY `5,000 WASABI MORIMOTO AT TAJ MANSINGH has done a fantastic job
MONSOON AT LE MERIDIEN
restaurant For close to three years, this delectable has been serving consistently The menu food to New Delhi residents. with blends traditional inuences Scallops avant garde ones. The Spiced with Polenta made with sun-dried of avour tomatoes offer an explosion and texture. The Tandoori Mustard Sea Bass Sole with Shrimp Upma and
‘Iron Chef’ Masaharu Morimoto in the art of preparing and of guiding Chef Vikramjit Roy ‘fusion’ cuisine. The list presenting delectable Japanese
back to with Madras Curry take you hotel the days of the Raj. Since the you is part of the Starwood chain, can also nosh on signature dishes
* All prices given for a meal for two people.
created by super chef Jean-Georges ers such Vongerichten. The menu off going variety that you want to keep a back to Monsoon. It also boasts that lovely collection of ne wines complements the cuisine. Le Meridien, 8, Windsor Place, Connaught Place, New Delhi. Tel: +91 11 23710101/ 23460143
restaurant is virtually of offerings at this very successful of specials includes endless. The impressive repertoire Fish Carpaccio and Morimoto Sashimi and White Tempura. The sushi and appetisers such as Rock Shrimp The restaurant also offers sashimi are denite must tries. you allow the chef to dazzle an Omakase menu, whereby Vegetarians will be you with his innovative creations. of the menu is meat-free. thrilled as almost 50 per cent Road, New Delhi. The Taj Mahal Hotel, 1, Mansingh Tel: +91 11 66513585/4
Photograph ANIL CHAWLA
`500
Have a delicious read. And watch.
16/10/12 3:19 PM 16/10/12 3:19 PM L4 Restaurant Spy R1.indd
RECIPES POP TO LIFE! Look out for our special augmented reality videos. Viewing details below and on p 26
L4 Restaurant Spy R1.indd
173
172
Sona Bahadur, editor
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HOW TO VIEW OUR AUGMENTED REALITY VIDEOS
1 Get the AR app by SMSing GFAR to 58888.
2 Download the app, install and start. Look out for pages with the symbol and point your smartphone at the page.
3 Watch your favourite recipe videos come alive on your mobile device.
Photographs RITAM BANERJEE
1ST ANNIVERSARY SPECIAL FEATURE
Eat out for `5,000,`2,500 `1,000 or
VIEW MY VIDEO ON THIS PAGE!
Wonderful world Our cover story celebrates 25 culinary blockbusters whose brilliant flavours have won them acolytes all over the globe. The list includes hits like sushi and paella as well as lesser-known gems like sambal and bulgogi. While home cooks will find recipes to dog-ear immediately, even non-cooks will enjoy our lively write-ups that place each dish in a fuller context. (Hard to digest, for instance, that the Japanese tempura might actually have Portuguese origins!)
HUNGRY PLANET Taste the world. In your kitchen, and on your plate. P 123
060-079-L4 global classics-STAN R1.indd 123
AUGMENTED REALITY
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Contents 104
Recipe TIFFANY GOODALL Photograph SIMON WALTON Styling ROISIN NIELD Food styling LIZZIE HARRIS
Make this delish global classic! Prawn and coconut laksa Serves 4 n 20 minutes n EASY oil 4 tsp garlic clove 4, crushed spring onion 4, finely chopped ginger 8 tsp, finely chopped green chillies 4, deseeded and finely chopped laksa paste 4 tbsp (try Ayam available at gourmet stores) lime 2, juiced prawns 400g coconut milk 650ml chicken or vegetable stock 400ml egg noodles 400g, dried coriander chopped, to serve
155
n Heat the oil in a large pan or wok. When hot, throw in the garlic, spring onion, ginger and green chilli. Add the laksa paste. Fry on a medium heat for 3-4 minutes, then squeeze in the lime juice. n Stir in the prawns, then add in the coconut milk and stock. Simmer gently for 5 minutes on a low heat until the prawns are pink. n Meanwhile, cook your egg noodles in a pan of boiling water for 4 minutes until soft. Drain, then tip into the laksa pan. Season to taste, then serve in a bowl, topped with coriander. n PER SERVING 823 kcals, protein 33g, carbs 79g, fat 44g, sat fat 25g, fibre 3g, sugar 7g, salt 2.19g
ALL YOUR FAVOURITE MAGAZINES ARE JUST A CLICK AWAY! Now, subscribing to BBC Good Food India (and all your other favourites like Femina, GoodHomes, Lonely Planet, Filmfare and others) just requires a click of the mouse! Log on to mags. timesgroup.com. Simply fill your cart with your favourite magazines and pay right from your desk. Plus get great discounts and really exciting gift offers! Log in now!
172
eat in
eat out
Inspiring, seasonal recipes that work every time
Restaurants on trial and cafés with character
78 7 MEALS FOR ` 700
172 RESTAURANT SPY
86 LUNCHBOX
184 PRO Vs PUNTER
A week’s worth of stylish meals Salads and dips for a light lunch
Budget and splurge dining in five cities New Delhi’s Tres
88 READY IN 30
Quick and simple recipes
96 MODERN VEGGIE
Light and healthy picnic hamper
special section
104 ENTERTAINING
123 GLOBAL CLASSICS
114 GOOD IDEAS
26 AUGMENTED REALITY VIDEOS
Elegant Mediterranean menu for six Six nifty recipes for Diwali leftovers
204 SUBSCRIBE to Good Food India
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25 global culinary blockbusters with recipes
Watch three recipe-demo videos by top chefs: Ritu Dalmia’s gnocchi on p 129, Nikhil Chib’s pad Thai on p 138, and Manu Chandra’s cheese soufflé on p 147
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WorldMags.net 1ST ANNIVERSARY ISSUE
November 2012 56 ON TEST
Mueslis for a morning boost
58 BARGAIN HUNTER
Best-value foodie events, meals and deals
60 THE HEALTHY INGREDIENT Make the most of nutritious corn
62 NEED TO KNOW
196 eat away
Foodie holiday ideas and recipes from around the world
Indian green chillies
66 FOOD ISSUES
Good Food investigates food labels
72 BOOKS & COOKS
Delicious new reads of the month
74 WHAT’S ON 186 OFF THE EATEN TRACK
Sita Ram Diwan Chand’s channa bhatura hits the spot
190 EAT LIKE A LOCAL: JAMAICA Discover Jamaican food with Vicky Ratnani
196 POSTCARD FROM NEW YORK
Karen Anand discovers a French connection in New York
first bite
18 OVER TO YOU
Reader recipes, comments and letters
39 FIRST BITE
Festive chocolates with a twist
42 NEWS, TRENDS AND SHOPPING Fresh finds, Diwali gifts and more
54 DRINK UP
Discover stylish drinks from over the world
November’s must-watch food TV
masterclass
130
Tacos
Out & about
JUST A FEW GOOD PLACES TO EAT FEATURED THIS MONTH New York
199 COOK LIKE A PRO
A nifty handheld mixer for your kitchen
Gordon Ramsay’s step-bystep chocolate fondant
Our pick of Australian wines
210 GOOD FOOD HEROES
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Spain
Korea
New Delhi
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Kolkata n Vietnam nn
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France
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Mexico Goa Jamaica
Fresh turmeric root and ginger mango
Thailand Chennai
Mumbai
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Bengaluru
PRO vs PUNTER
Feel like the average diner doesn’t always agree with professional reviews? Become our punter in the ‘Pro vs Punter’ section and review a restaurant along with a seasoned pro. To apply, write to us at
[email protected].
Japan
Greece n
200 CHEF SKILLS 206 WINE GUIDE
Italy UK
THE BBC GOODFOOD LEGACY
T BBC GoodFood is the UK’s largest selling food magazine with a readership of over 1.1 million. T bbcgoodfood.com is the UK’s most popular recipe site attracting 3.7 million unique users per month. T The hugely successful iPhone & iPad apps have had over 70,000 downloads till date.
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Australia
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Over to you For top restaurant, recipe and travel tips, we ask you, our readers, to keep us on the pulse
Write to us! We love hearing from you. E-mail us your feedback, your favourite recipes and your comments at
[email protected]. Let’s be in touch!
FOOD NATION Goa Good Food reader Reema Kamat on her favourite places to eat in her state
T BREAKFAST To start your day
GOOD FOOD STAR RECIPE
Asafoetida-spiced grilled fish Serves 6 n 20 minutes + marinating n EASY green chillies 4 lemon juice 30ml onions 200g, finely chopped garlic 50g, finely chopped Gondhoraj lemons 2 salt to taste asafoetida powder (hing) 6g oil 50ml bekti fish 6, 120g each, filleted THE HERB GARLIC BUTTER SAUCE onion 20g, chopped garlic 5g, chopped lemon juice 20ml butter 300g parsley 10g, chopped lemon zest 10g
18 BBC GoodFood
n Clean, deseed and finely chop the green chillies. Mix the lemon juice, onions, garlic and chopped chillies. n Add salt, asafoetida and oil. Mix well. Marinate the fish in this mix for at least 6 hours. Heat a pan and glaze it with oil. Add the fish and grill at high heat on both sides. n Arrange it on a baking dish and top with the marinade, removing any excess oil. Bake in a pre-heated oven at 220°C for 3-4 minutes. n Meanwhile, make the herbed butter sauce. Heat a pan and sauté the onion and garlic till they start changing colour. Add the lemon juice and butter. Whisk to form a thick emulsion. Add parsley and lemon zest. Serve hot with the fish and a wedge of Gondhoraj lemon. n PER SERVING 269 kcals, protein 31.75g, carbs 57.68g, fat 11.80g, sat fat 2.22g, fibre 1.68g, salt 0.1g
the way locals do, head to Café Tato’s (Tel: +91 832 2426690) for a plate of ‘mix’ bhaji (dry potato sabzi with chana gravy), that quintessential Goan breakfast — you could have it with bread but most prefer puris. Wash it down with thick cold coffee. T LUNCH If you want to eat a square Goan meal, the ‘fish-curry-rice’ thali lunch option offered by most local eateries is the best value-for-money proposition. Ritz Classic (Tel: +91 832 2227335) is heavily frequented by locals — their curry is a heady blend of spices (a secret family recipe) and they also excel at all kinds of fresh seafood (try the rawa-fried prawns or kingfish). T DINNER You can’t be in Goa and not have Chicken Cafreal; if you like it pungent, head to Branco’s (brancos. in) for its finger-licking version with hot Goan bread. They also serve sensational fried prawns. Or let your taste buds take a quick trip abroad when you visit Maracas (maracas-goa.com), a nifty tapas restaurant.
HOW YOU PIMPED IT I don’t usually try Indian recipes since they involve a lot of work but this one was simple with great results. I replaced the bekti fish with neutral-tasting basa but it worked well with the zesty flavour of the marinade. I also replaced the Gondhoraj lemon with a mix of regular lemon and sweet lime (mosambi). The fish tastes great even if you skip the herb-butter sauce, but once you’ve tasted the fish and the sauce together, there’s no going back. Gagan Gupta is an auto journalist who likes to indulge his love for cooking in his spare time.
JOIN OUR TASTE TEAM Our Taste team comprises readers and home cooks who try our recipes and give us feedback on what they liked and what they would do differently. Write to us at
[email protected] to join us.
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NOVEMBER 2012
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over to you readers write
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37.5% 25% Tacos
Egg fried rice
25% 12.5%
INSIDERS’ POLL
Fondue
Tiramisu
Which of these global classics have you tried making at home?
LETTER Dear editor, OF THE We recently hosted a MONTH delegation of psychiatrists from Pakistan for an Indo-Pak conference and invited a few of our friends from across the border, for dinner at our place. We prepared the Pakistani recipes — Shahi zafarani sharbat, Baingan borani, Khobani ki chutney and Sheer khurma, featured in the October 2012 issue of BBC Good Food India. Our guests were pleasantly surprised to taste authentic Pakistani cuisine and absolutely loved the food. We gifted them homemade Besan ke laddoo, featured in one of the past issues of the magazine. This was a perfect example of friendship on the dining table and we shall cherish these memories for a long time to come. Thank you, Good Food, for giving us such wonderful recipes from across the border! Dr Deepali Gul, Jalandhar The winner of the letter of the month for this issue wins a special festive hamper worth ` 5,000 from Foodhall. The hamper is filled with tempting goodies like Kalamata olives, extra virgin olive oil, penne rigate, basil crackers , chocolate fondue, Lemnos jalapeno cream cheese and Jamie Oliver’s chilli salt . To write in to the magazine, e-mail us at bbcgoodfood@ wwm.co.in and include your address and telephone number.
20 BBC GoodFood
READER RECIPE OF THE MONTH Avan Tengra is a homemaker who loves cooking and feeding people. She is passionate about what she puts on her plate and considers her daughter her biggest food critic.
Chilli beef steak with spaghetti Serves 1 n 25 minutes + marinating n EASY steak 2 pieces, undercut red wine 1 tbsp Worcestershire sauce 2 tbsp (try American Garden available at gourmet stores) salt to taste peppercorns 1 tbsp, crushed butter 1 tbsp olive oil 2 tbsp onion 1, sliced garlic cloves 2, minced
green pepper 1, sliced carrot 1, small, julienned soy sauce 1 tbsp barbecue sauce 1 tbsp (try Remia available at gourmet stores) chilli sauce 1 tbsp green chillies 2, slit lengthwise spaghetti 1 cup, boiled chilli flakes and oregano to garnish n Marinate the steak in red wine, 1 tbsp Worcestershire sauce, salt and crushed peppercorns for 3 hours and
broil in the oven for 10 minutes on each side. n Cut into thin strips and sauté them in 1 tbsp of butter. Keep aside. Heat olive oil in a wok. Add the onion, green pepper and carrot and stir fry on high heat for 2-3 minutes. n Add soy sauce, 1 tbsp Worcestershire sauce, barbecue sauce, chilli sauce and green chillies. n Add in the beef and serve with spaghetti. Garnish with chilli flakes and oregano.
The winner of the Reader Recipe of the Month wins a special gift hamper worth ` 4,500 from Gourmet Company (gourmetco.in), an online gourmet store. The hamper contains a fondue set for four people, a chocolate fondue pack, marshmallows, shortbreads, fresh strawberries or dried fruit. To win the hamper, write down your favourite recipe, attach a photograph of the dish that is at least 1 MB in size, along with a photograph of yourself that is at least 500 KB in size and e-mail it to us at
[email protected] with the subject line ‘Reader Recipe’. Don’t forget your address and telephone number! Interact with other Good Food readers on Facebook at facebook.com/GoodFood MagazineIndia or follow us on Twitter at twitter.com/goodfoodmagin.
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NOVEMBER 2012
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In this issue
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Photograph RITAM BANERJEE
Manu Chandra is the executive chef of Olive Beach in Bengaluru. He formally trained to be a chef at the Culinary Institute of America in New York and worked with Michelin-starred chef Eyvind Hellstrom in Norway. Chandra has won accolades for his contemporary Mediterranean cuisine with its focus on local ingredients and techniques. Chandra writes about the classic dish, shepherd’s pie, on p 140. Also watch his video on perfecting a cheese soufflé in our Augmented Reality special on p 147 and try the recipe on p 160.
RITU DALMIA
Augmented Reality Special
MANU CHANDRA
Augmented Reality Special
Augmented Reality Special
NIKHIL CHIB
Photograph SUDEEP GURTU
Ritu Dalmia is chef and proprietor of Diva restaurant and Café Diva, and runs Latitude 28 Café and Café at ICC, all located in the capital. She is also the author of Italian Khana and Travelling Diva, and hosts Travelling Diva, a show based on her travels currently on air on NDTV Good Times. In 2000, after successfully running the Indian restaurant Vama in London, she started Diva. Watch her rustle up the perfect gnocchi in our Augmented Reality video on p 129 and try the recipe on p 151.
Nikhil Chib is the managing director and celebrity chef of Busaba, a chain of standalone south east Asian restaurants in Mumbai that he started in 2001. In 2005, he formally trained to be a chef at the Ecole Supérieure de Cuisine Française, Paris and worked at a number of Michelinstarred restaurants there. As part of our Augmented Reality special, Chib teaches how to make an authentic pad Thai. You can find the video on p 138 and the recipe on p 156.
GORDON RAMSAY
SABYASACHI GORAI
Multiple Michelin-starred chef, restaurateur and host of the television shows Hell’s Kitchen and Masterchef USA, Gordon Ramsay is one of the most well-recognised faces of the culinary world. Ramsay demonstrates how to make decadent chocolate fondants perfect for parties, in his step-by-step Masterclass on p 200.
Sabyasachi Gorai is the director of kitchens of Olive Beach, Olive Bar & Kitchen and Ai restaurants in New Delhi, among others. He graduated from the Institute of Hotel Management in New Delhi and further refined his culinary skills in the United States, Australia and the Middle East. Gorai specialises in European food. Cook up a Mediterranean feast for friends and family with Gorai’s menu of easy yet sophisticated dishes featured in the Entertaining section of Eat In, p 104. 22 BBC GoodFood
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NOVEMBER 2012
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In this issue
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ZEBA KOHLI
SUMANA MUKHERJEE
Zeba Kohli is a chocolatier and managing director of the Good House Keeping Company, which owns Fantasie Fine Chocolates in Mumbai. Kohli has trained in chocolate making in countries around the world. Fantasie Fine Chocolates has won the Times Food award for Best Confectionery every year since 2008. Kohli has been part of several foodie television shows, including Breaking Bread and Do It Sweet, both on NDTV Good Times. Add a personal touch to your sugary gifts with her chocolate recipes in our First Bite section, p 40.
Sumana Mukherjee is a freelance journalist, restaurant critic and columnist based in Bengaluru. Mukherjee writes on a variety of subjects but considers food her most enduring passion. Her articles have been published in a number of publications including Outlook magazine, Mint Lounge, the Indian Express and Forbes, among others. Mukherjee explores the often-confusing world of Indian food labelling and the laws governing them in Good Food Investigates on p 66.
KISHI ARORA
Kishi Arora is a patissière, food consultant and founder of Foodaholics, an online bakery based in New Delhi. She trained in baking and pastry at the Culinary Institute of America and worked in the hospitality industry in the States and Singapore before deciding to return to India and delve into baking full time. Arora shows you how to extend the life of your leftover Diwali goodies with her innovative recipes featured in our Eat In section, p 114.
VICKY RATNANI
ASHISH CHAWLA
Vicky Ratnani is a chef, television anchor and culinary consultant based in Mumbai. He graduated from the Institute of Hospitality Management in Mumbai and is currently Corporate Chef, Fine Dining at Dish Hospitality, the company that owns and manages Aurus restaurant in Mumbai. Ratnani writes about the incredible cuisine of Jamaica in Eat Like A Local on p 190.
Ashish Chawla is a food, fashion and travel photographer based in New Delhi. He graduated in fine arts from the College of Art in the capital and dabbled in various mediums of art before finding his calling in photography. His work has appeared in a number of publications, including Femina, Hello! and Rolling Stone, among others. Chawla shot Sabyasachi Gorai’s Mediterranean menu featured in our Entertaining section, p 104. 24 BBC GoodFood
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How to make sense of Good Food’s augmented reality (AR) special View our augmented reality videos embedded in this issue with three easy-as-pie steps: SMS GFAR to 58888
1
Get the AR app by SMSing GFAR to 58888. Download the app, install and start.
AUGMENTED REALITY AR Logo
anniversary special global classics
AUGMENTED REALITY
VIEW RITU DALMIA’S GNOCCHI VIDEO HERE!
4
2
Ask any Italian nonna and she’ll tell you that making gnocchi from scratch is a labour of love. Ergo, any packaged kind must never see the light of day. Each region in Italy has its own culinary tradition of preparing these little, soft doughy dumplings. Semolina flour, milk and cheese forms the basis of the oven-baked Gnocchi alla Romana which is a speciality in Rome while in Florence, a spinach, ricotta and flour-based gnocchi is most commonly eaten. One of the most historic of Italian foods, flour-based dumplings were believed to have been introduced by the Roman legions centuries ago. The addition of potatoes was a relatively recent innovation bought on by their introduction to Europe in the 16th Century. Potato gnocchi is particularly popular in the northern Italian regions of Abruzzo, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Veneto and Liguria. Derived from the word nocchio (knot) or nocca (knuckle), gnocchi became a popular alternative to pasta. Making gnocchi into its odd and lumpy shape requires little effort and it is versatile enough to work with simple ingredients. Gnocchi also takes well to any kind of sauce that goes with pasta — meaty bolognese, simple tomato-basil or a decadently cheesy gorgonzola cream. Combined with mashed potatoes and flour to form soft, bite-sized parcels of dough, each dumpling is then ridged along one side (this allows the sauce to settle in) and boiled until all the dumplings rise to the surface. This is ensured by adding less flour to the mix so the dumplings are airy and light. It is believed that to-be Italian brides are tested on their cooking chops on the basis of how heavyhanded they are with the flour while making gnocchi. (See recipe on p 151).
060-079-L4 global classics-STAN R1.indd 128-129
Photograph and videography RITAM BANERJEE
Gnocchi
Look out for pages with the symbol in this issue and point your smartphone at the page.
17/10/12 5:28 PM
3 Voila! Watch your favourite recipes come alive on your mobile device.
VIEW RECIPE DEMOS BY 3 TOP CHEFS!
T Ritu Dalmia T Nikhil Chib
T Manu Chandra
AR videos in this issue Wonderful world Our cover story celebrates 25 culinary blockbusters whose brilliant flavours have won them acolytes all over the globe. The list includes hits like sushi and paella as well as lesser-known gems like sambal and bulgogi. While home cooks will find recipes to dog-ear immediately, even non-cooks will enjoy our lively write-ups that place each dish in a fuller context. (Hard to digest, for instance, that the Japanese tempura might actually have Portuguese origins!)
1ST ANNIVERSARY SPECIAL FEATURE
25
dishes
Behind the scenes Gathering dishes from so many countries in one list was no cakewalk. We free-associated, spoke with chefs and had marathon sessions with our mentor Camellia Panjabi, a non-stop ally in this venture. I could fill up this whole page with dishes from the masterlist that didn’t make it to the final 25: Ravioli, masala dosa, tagine, fajitas, ceviche. This is by no means a comprehensive list. Nor are we saying, for example, that cheese soufflé is more popular than quiche Lorraine. The idea is simply to celebrate the vibrant range of food from around the world that makes people happy.
THE WORLD LOVES TO EAT!
17/10/12 11:37 AM
DINE LIKE A PRO Eat out well for different budgets— from `500 to `5,000. P 172 Eat out for `2,500 `5,000, `1,000 or
Getting real As BBC Good Food goes augmented for the first time, our pages literally pop to life. The stars of our augmented reality (AR) special—videos of Ritu Dalmia making gnocchi, Nikhil Chib tossing up pad Thai and Manu Chandra doing cheese soufflé— await you on pages marked with our AR logo (p128, 139 and 147). The experience starts right here. Get the AR app, follow instructions on this page (see steps on the right) and voila, you can view me live in our new test kitchen. There’s more—patissière Kishi Arora’s brilliantly clever ideas for Diwali leftovers, a knockout Med menu by Chef Sabyasachi Gorai, and our special budget-and-splurge guide to dining across five Indian cities.
eat out restaurant spy
Rocky Mohan with Chef Vikramjit Roy at Wasabi by Morimoto
`500
you find the best Our panel of culinary experts helps whatever your wallet size restaurant bang for your buck,
New Delhi Rocky Mohan, director of
Delicious Tandoori Broccoli
This collector’s issue is our way of celebrating good food with you, the wonderful readers of this magazine, on our birthday.
at Monsoon
Rocky Mohan is the executive industries and the Mohan Meakin group of Club co-founder of the Delhi Gourmet
GOVINDA AT ISKCON
`1,000
MAMAGOTO
This popular restaurant and with a cheerful atmosphere Asian eclectic décor offers excellent dishes cuisine. The meal-in-a-bowl
Shrimp and appetisers such as Rock Tempura, corn cakes and crispy spring rolls make for excellent Grill starters. The coal-red Robata the Eggplant is impressive while Sticky Rice with tofu, mushroom hot and ginger cooked in fragrant is basil and south-east Asian herbs delectable. The signature Sichuan Pepper Prawns on Udon Noodles The makes Mamagoto a must visit. veggie menu has a decent range of options too. 53, 1st Floor, Middle Lane, Khan 11 Market, New Delhi. Tel: +91 Centre 45166060 (with outlets at City in Gurgaon and Saket)
`2,500
BY `5,000 WASABI MORIMOTO AT TAJ MANSINGH has done a fantastic job
with blends traditional inuences Scallops avant garde ones. The Spiced with Polenta made with sun-dried of avour tomatoes offer an explosion and texture. The Tandoori Mustard Sea Bass Sole with Shrimp Upma and
‘Iron Chef’ Masaharu Morimoto in the art of preparing and of guiding Chef Vikramjit Roy ‘fusion’ cuisine. The list presenting delectable Japanese restaurant is virtually of offerings at this very successful of specials includes endless. The impressive repertoire Fish Carpaccio and Morimoto Sashimi and White Tempura. The sushi and appetisers such as Rock Shrimp The restaurant also offers sashimi are denite must tries. you allow the chef to dazzle an Omakase menu, whereby Vegetarians will be you with his innovative creations. of the menu is meat-free. thrilled as almost 50 per cent Road, New Delhi. The Taj Mahal Hotel, 1, Mansingh
back to with Madras Curry take you hotel the days of the Raj. Since the you is part of the Starwood chain, can also nosh on signature dishes
MONSOON AT LE MERIDIEN
restaurant For close to three years, this delectable has been serving consistently The menu food to New Delhi residents.
* All prices given for a meal for two people.
created by super chef Jean-Georges ers such Vongerichten. The menu off going variety that you want to keep a back to Monsoon. It also boasts that lovely collection of ne wines complements the cuisine. Le Meridien, 8, Windsor Place, Connaught Place, New Delhi. Tel: +91 11 23710101/ 23460143
Photograph ANIL CHAWLA
`500
to Govinda is iconic in its ability smell deliver truly sattvik food. The in this of desi ghee permeates the air with very comfortable space, adorned a Krishna mural in the background. Eating at Govinda is a vegetarian’s delight. The no-onion, no-garlic and buffets available for both lunch dinner have a number of takers and the dishes change regularly. ered The special Satvik Falahar off like during auspicious occasions a large Navratri and Ekadashi has are fan following. The desserts exceptional, as one would expect the from a restaurant that follows tradition of Chappan Bhog. Road, Iskcon Temple Complex, Main East of Kailash, New Delhi. Tel: +91 11 26280069/ 26214820
Have a delicious read. And watch.
Tel: +91 11 66513585/4
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Sona Bahadur, editor
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anniversary special global classics
Cheese soufflé
If there is one dish that can bring the most accomplished chefs to their knees, it is the French cheese soufflé. Distinctly bold in flavour, its light and airy simplicity is its hallmark. Will it or won’t it rise is the question on every soufflé maker’s mind, but you’ll find that making one is less about the fuss and more about the treatment of ingredients. Egg plays the lead in the dramatic production of a rising soufflé. Julia Child, the affable American author, chef and TV personality who popularised French home cooking rightly said that “the soufflé is undoubtedly the egg at its most magnificent, the egg in its puffing power”. The soufflé relies on the airy
properties of egg white which, when beaten into a flavoured cheese sauce causes the mixture to rise above the rim of its dish. Threatening to deflate at the slightest delay in eating time, a soufflé must be served immediately out of the oven. Though a soufflé can be both sweet and savoury, the cheese soufflé or the soufflé au fromage is a classic French dish that uses a hard cheese such as Gruyere (Cheddar or Parmesan work equally well). Served as an hors d’oeuvre, the light, puffy burst of salted cheese of a soufflé requires no adornment. However, it is commonly served alongside a salad, soup or as a light main course. (See recipe on p 160).
Words NIKHIL CHIB, Celebrity chef and MD at Busaba, Mumbai
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P 129 Gnocchi Ritu Dalmia, celebrated chef and writer, rustles up this rustic Italian dish in minutes. Video by Ritam Banerjee
AUGMENTED REALITY
VIEW NIKHIL CHIB’S PAD THAI VIDEO HERE!
PAD THAI
Ask any Italian nonna and she’ll tell you that making gnocchi from scratch is a labour of love. Ergo, any packaged kind must never see the light of day. Each region in Italy has its own culinary tradition of preparing these little, soft doughy dumplings. Semolina flour, milk and cheese forms the basis of the oven-baked Gnocchi alla Romana which is a speciality in Rome while in Florence, a spinach, ricotta and flour-based gnocchi is most commonly eaten. One of the most historic of Italian foods, flour-based dumplings were believed to have been introduced by the Roman legions centuries ago. The addition of potatoes was a relatively recent innovation bought on by their introduction to Europe in the 16th Century. Potato gnocchi is particularly popular in the northern Italian regions of Abruzzo, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Veneto and Liguria. Derived from the word nocchio (knot) or nocca (knuckle), gnocchi became a popular alternative to pasta. Making gnocchi into its odd and lumpy shape requires little effort and it is versatile enough to work with simple ingredients. Gnocchi also takes well to any kind of sauce that goes with pasta — meaty bolognese, simple tomato-basil or a decadently cheesy gorgonzola cream. Combined with mashed potatoes and flour to form soft, bite-sized parcels of dough, each dumpling is then ridged along one side (this allows the sauce to settle in) and boiled until all the dumplings rise to the surface. This is ensured by adding less flour to the mix so the dumplings are airy and light. It is believed that to-be Italian brides are tested on their cooking chops on the basis of how heavyhanded they are with the flour while making gnocchi. (See recipe on p 151).
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Watch your favourite recipe videos come alive on your mobile device.
15 The best food in Thailand is found on the little streets aka sois in Bangkok. It is no secret that I have learnt a lot of my cooking from those gullies. The spices, the cooks, the purity of the produce, the taste, the speed at which the food is prepared and, of course, the price, is sure to inspire anyone. Pad is a Thai word meaning stir fried. Pad Thai can be found anywhere in Thailand — it is a hugely popular street food. Many Thai chefs have told me that its popularity can be traced to the 1930s when the Thai prime minister wanted to reduce rice consumption to further increase already booming rice exports. And since pad Thai was already very popular, he declared it would be the country’s national dish. From the government’s perspective, this ensured that the people ate more noodles than rice. Much to the pleasure of foodies, pad Thai became such a rage that many variations emerged across the country and the world. I accidentally came across pad Thai in Bangkok in 1996 when I happened to meet some street chefs who rustled up fantastic pad Thai in seconds. I just
Gnocchi
HOW TO VIEW OUR AUGMENTED REALITY VIDEOS
Photographs RITAM BANERJEE
HUNGRY PLANET Taste the world. In your kitchen, and on your plate. P 123
Global Classics
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VIEW MY VIDEO ON THIS PAGE!
RECIPES POP TO LIFE! Look out for our special augmented reality videos. Viewing details below and on p 26
anniversary special global classics
had to learn it. They were making it on a flat plate called the griddle and the whole ritual was almost a theatrical demonstration. There was plenty of drama, throwing noodles up in the air and lots of tossing and turning. Traditionally the pad Thai is made of stir-fried rice noodles with egg, tamarind juice, fish sauce, red chilli with bean sprouts, peanuts, shrimp, chicken or tofu. Boy, do I relish it! I have learned many pad Thai secrets during my trips to Thailand. One of them being that it is key to not overcook your proteins. Whether it is poultry or seafood, you have to cook it at high heat, get a nice crusty sear on one side, then add your other ingredients like egg, vegetables, sauce and rice noodles, even while the protein is still undercooked. The steam generated from the sauce gives it the perfect flavour. Today pad Thai is one of the most widely-appreciated Thai dishes in the world and one can find it on the menu of the swankiest South East Asian restaurants and eateries across all major metropolises. (See recipe on p 156).
Photograph ROGER STOWELL Videography KUNAL CHANDRA
So what makes our first anniversary issue special? It represents some of the best cooking on the planet— 25 of the world’s favourite dishes collected in a single list. Also, this might look like a normal issue but there’s something physically cooking beneath its surface, right under these pages. Read on.
VIEW RITU DALMIA’S GNOCCHI VIDEO HERE!
Videography VIKAS MUNIPALLE
This edition is a cracker. We turn one this month. And we just launched our kitchen-studio in Mumbai (read about it on p 32). Plus, it’s Diwali time. With all this happy convergence, we figured the November line up had to be grand.
anniversary special global classics
AUGMENTED REALITY
AUGMENTED REALITY
Photograph and videography RITAM BANERJEE
a talking, moving, cooking issue!
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P 138 Pad Thai Watch Busaba’s Nikhil Chib toss up a colourful veggie pad Thai. Video by Vikas Munipalle
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P 147 Cheese soufflé Manu Chandra, Executive Chef, Olive Beach, simplifies this classic French dish. Video by Kunal Chandra
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Chocolicious!
Want to add a homemade touch to your festive gifts? Make these chocolatey delights infused with fruity and spicy flavours. Eclectic and different, this is chocolate with an edge Recipes ZEBA KOHLI
Makes approximately 700g n 1 1/2 hours n MODERATELY EASY In a vessel, add 200g condensed milk and 20g coffee powder. Heat slightly in a pan of hot water so that the coffee dissolves and stir well. Cool for 25 minutes. Melt 500g dark chocolate and place in a mould. Turn the mould upside down to make hollow shells. Collect the chocolate that falls out of the mould. Cool shells in a refrigerator for 15 minutes. Remove mould and fill with coffee mixture. Top up the shells with the remaining melted dark chocolate and cool in refrigerator for 20 minutes. Tap each chocolate out lightly from the mould so that it does not break. Serve.
GET YOUR FIX You can find great chocolate selections at: Fantasie Fine Chocolates (fantasiefinechocolates. com), Mumbai; Kookie Jar (kookiejar.in), Kolkata; Mavo Chocolatiers (mavochoc.com), New Delhi; Rage Chocolatier (ragechocolatier.com), Bengaluru; Le Chocolatier (lechocolatier.in), Chennai.
Chocolate mousse Makes approximately 700g n 1 hour n MODERATELY EASY
Photograph GARETH MORGANS Food styling JANINE RATCLIFFE
Add 40g cocoa powder to 200g condensed milk. Mix well. Melt 500g dark chocolate. Put in a mould and turn upside down to make hollow shells. Collect the chocolate that falls out of the mould. Cool shells in a refrigerator for 15 minutes. Take mould out and fill them with cocoa powder and the condensed milk mixture. Top up the shells with the balance melted dark chocolate. Cool in refrigerator for 20 minutes and serve.
Ginger truffles Makes approximately 600g n 1 hour 30 minutes n EASY Boil 50g fresh cream and cool completely. Mix with 150g melted milk chocolate, 75g grated ginger and stir well. Melt 325g milk chocolate. Put in a mould and turn upside down to
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make hollow shells. Collect the chocolate that falls out of the mould. Cool shells in refrigerator for 15 minutes. Take mould out and fill with the ginger truffle mixture. Top up the shells with the remaining melted milk chocolate. Cool in the refrigerator for 20 minutes and serve.
Orange truffles Makes approximately 500g n 2 hours n EASY Boil 50g fresh cream and let it cool. Mix with 400g melted dark chocolate and stir well. Add 8ml orange essence and cool in the refrigerator. The truffle is now ready. Arrange on a tray. Melt and temper 100g dark chocolate. Put in a mould. Turn mould upside down to make hollow shells. Collect the chocolate that falls out of the mould. Cool shells in refrigerator for 15 minutes. Remove shells and fill up with orange truffle mixture. Top up the shells with the balance melted dark chocolate. Cool for 20 minutes. Serve with coffee.
the mould. Turn the mould upside down to make hollow shells. Collect the chocolate that falls out from the mould. Cool shells in a refrigerator for 15-20 minutes. Remove mould and fill with chilli mixture. Top up the shells with the remaining melted dark chocolate. Cool in the refrigerator for 20 minutes. Tap out the chocolates lightly from their moulds so that they do not break. Each chocolate will have a green shaded effect on the top. Arrange on a platter and serve. Adorn the platter with a few fresh green chillies.
Hot chilli chocolates
Makes approximately 500g n 1 hour n EASY Boil 50g fresh cream and allow to cool. Add 150g melted dark chocolate and stir well. Add a drop of chilli juice. Mix well and cool. To shade the moulds, add green food colouring in 25g melted white chocolate and shade the mould. Let it dry. Melt and temper 300g dark chocolate and put in
Zeba Kohli is Managing Director of Fantasie Fine Chocolates
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Photograph ADRIAN TAYLOR
Mocha mousse
Gift your friends and family decadent chocolates in a riot of flavours. Happy Diwali!
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T First Bite
Chocolate grows up!
first bite
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eat in entertaining
eat in entertaining
T Eat In
A taste of the
Med
The largest section of the magazine, Eat In is packed with fabulous recipes with little tips and tricks that are perfect for the home cook. Each recipe is triple-tested by us so you get it right the very first time you make it. We’ve got everything covered — from easy everyday dinners and show-off menus for the weekend to modern veggie dishes and seasonal recipes bursting with the month’s flavours. P 77
Get a whiff of the salty seas and azure skies in your home Recipes SABYASACHI GORAI Photographs ASHISH CHAWLA Props courtesy FABINDIA, THE SHOP, FCML HOME
MENU FOR 6 ✴ Baked corn and cheesestuffed Bhavnagari chillies
✴ Popcorn-crusted prawn and smoked paprika mayo
✴ Med-style lamb filo pouches ✴ Spinach tagliatelle with olive oil and picante peppers
✴ Catalan-inspired exotic mushroom stew
✴ Asafoetida-spiced grilled fish ✴ Mango crèma Catalana ✴ Spanish churros
“It was a great pleasure creating a menu for the Indian home kitchen. The real challenge was to adapt these dishes for home cooking while retaining the Mediterranean flavours.I have given a distinct Indianness to these dishes by adding herbs and spices we use most commonly in India.” Asafoetida-spiced grilled fish (recipe on p 110)
— Chef Sabyasachi Gorai, Director of Kitchens, Olive Beach, Olive Bar & Kitchen, Ai and Lap, New Delhi
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Eat out for `5,000,`2,500 `1,000 or
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eat out restaurant spy
T Eat Out
Rocky Mohan with Chef Vikramjit Roy at Wasabi by Morimoto
`500
This section stands out for its uniquely-positioned restaurant reviews and features that are authoritative, objective and reliable. A novel approach to restaurant reviews, our Pro vs Punter section enables a Good Food India reader to go undercover and rate a restaurant together with an expert. Plus, we get leading chefs from around the country to simplify their signature recipes to make at home. P 171
Our panel of culinary experts helps you find the best restaurant bang for your buck, whatever your wallet size
Rocky Mohan, New Delhi
Delicious Tandoori Broccoli at Monsoon
Rocky Mohan is the executive director of the Mohan Meakin group of industries and co-founder of the Delhi Gourmet Club
GOVINDA AT ISKCON
`1,000
MAMAGOTO
This popular restaurant with a cheerful atmosphere and eclectic décor offers excellent Asian cuisine. The meal-in-a-bowl dishes
and appetisers such as Rock Shrimp Tempura, corn cakes and crispy spring rolls make for excellent starters. The coal-red Robata Grill Eggplant is impressive while the Sticky Rice with tofu, mushroom and ginger cooked in fragrant hot basil and south-east Asian herbs is delectable. The signature Sichuan Pepper Prawns on Udon Noodles makes Mamagoto a must visit. The menu has a decent range of veggie options too. 53, 1st Floor, Middle Lane, Khan Market, New Delhi. Tel: +91 11 45166060 (with outlets at City Centre in Gurgaon and Saket)
`2,500
MONSOON AT LE MERIDIEN
For close to three years, this restaurant has been serving consistently delectable food to New Delhi residents. The menu blends traditional inuences with avant garde ones. The Spiced Scallops with Polenta made with sun-dried tomatoes offer an explosion of avour and texture. The Tandoori Mustard Sole with Shrimp Upma and Sea Bass
* All prices given for a meal for two people.
`5,000 WASABI BY MORIMOTO AT TAJ MANSINGH
with Madras Curry take you back to the days of the Raj. Since the hotel is part of the Starwood chain, you can also nosh on signature dishes created by super chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten. The menu offers such variety that you want to keep going back to Monsoon. It also boasts a lovely collection of ne wines that complements the cuisine. Le Meridien, 8, Windsor Place, Connaught Place, New Delhi. Tel: +91 11 23710101/ 23460143
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‘Iron Chef’ Masaharu Morimoto has done a fantastic job of guiding Chef Vikramjit Roy in the art of preparing and presenting delectable Japanese ‘fusion’ cuisine. The list of offerings at this very successful restaurant is virtually endless. The impressive repertoire of specials includes Morimoto Sashimi and White Fish Carpaccio and appetisers such as Rock Shrimp Tempura. The sushi and sashimi are denite must tries. The restaurant also offers an Omakase menu, whereby you allow the chef to dazzle you with his innovative creations. Vegetarians will be thrilled as almost 50 per cent of the menu is meat-free. The Taj Mahal Hotel, 1, Mansingh Road, New Delhi. Tel: +91 11 66513585/4
Photograph ANIL CHAWLA
`500
Govinda is iconic in its ability to deliver truly sattvik food. The smell of desi ghee permeates the air in this very comfortable space, adorned with a Krishna mural in the background. Eating at Govinda is a vegetarian’s delight. The no-onion, no-garlic buffets available for both lunch and dinner have a number of takers and the dishes change regularly. The special Satvik Falahar offered during auspicious occasions like Navratri and Ekadashi has a large fan following. The desserts are exceptional, as one would expect from a restaurant that follows the tradition of Chappan Bhog. Iskcon Temple Complex, Main Road, East of Kailash, New Delhi. Tel: +91 11 26280069/ 26214820
Our opening section is the perfect appetiser for the pages that follow. First Bite brings you the month’s freshest food buzz — new launches, events, great bargains, supermarket sweeps, health tips on food and more. In every issue we spotlight local produce in season in Need To Know. And our Good Food Investigates pieces delve deep into important food issues to bring you insights that really matter to you. P 39
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New York Karen Anand dishes about the ongoing culinary French revolution in (surprise, surprise) New York
I
am in New York City after almost 20 years and find it has become cleaner and more organised and proud of its ethnic mix and deep-rooted diversity. In terms of food, there is no doubt that the French have taken over. It’s the new buzz cuisine for not only the high and mighty of pocket and esprit but also the average-thinking New Yorker eager for a way of life beyond burger and fries. A New York food columnist talks about whipping up a Salade Niçoise for a mid-week dinner and Dean & DeLuca, the original gourmet store in SoHo, sells French
cheeses as if Broadway is born to them. There is a game called ‘boules’ which old men play in villages throughout France. It consists of rolling a ball in order to hit a target ball, not unlike a similar game in England called ‘bowls’. It is no coincidence that chef and entrepreneur Daniel Boulud’s name not only sounds like the game in question but represents what he has done to this city. He has simply and literally ‘bouled’ New York over with his food. Boulud represents the Frenchification of New York
Food writer, entrepreneur and gourmet, Karen Anand has journeyed across the world writing about gastronomy.
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Photograph KAREN ANAND
Photograph MARK SEELEN
at other establishments. Thirsty after devouring the beautiful Frick Collection, a private museum with an astounding collection of old Masters (Tel: +1 212 2880700) and in need of a New York cocktail, we head for the Carlyle Bar on 76th and Madison (Tel: +1 212 7441600). This is the Upper East Side you hear about and see in movies. As we stroll down from
a formidable empire. It includes his Upper East Side flagship restaurant, the three Michelin-starred Daniel (Tel: +1 212 2880033) which was voted one of the 10 best restaurants in the world; Café Boulud in Surrey Hotel, a favourite of Henry Kissinger’s, it appears; Bar Boulud, Epicerie Boulud and Boulud Sud on Broadway (New York’s Mayor
“Chef and entrepreneur Daniel Boulud has simply and literally ‘bouled’ New York over with his food. Boulud represents the Frenchification of New York — not just on the fashionable and conservative Upper East Side but also further down on the alternative-chic Bowery” Bloomberg even suggested renaming the street after him) and the newly opened DBGB Kitchen and Bar, a casual place which the chef describes as a cross between a French brasserie and an American tavern. It opened on the Bowery in Lower Manhattan with a menu of over a dozen varieties of house-made sausages and up to 75 craft beers. Boulud has opened more restaurants in Miami, Palm Beach, Beijing and this year, Canada. In between being ‘bouled’ over in New York, I eat (and drink)
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5th Avenue, we pass impeccably dressed maids carefully placing Louis Vuitton overnight bags in the back of a car while a large chauffeur holds a manicured and coiffed Lhasa Apso. Clearly someone is off to the East Hamptons for the weekend. This is Friday evening in New York and the fun has begun. Just before I cross the road to the Carlyle, I catch sight of the welcoming and upmarket Bar Pleiades in Surrey Hotel (Tel: +1 212 2883700). It is quiet with warm interiors serving great cocktails. We start with a New York favourite, an Old Fashioned — bourbon and bitters with an orange twist. It tastes
Clockwise from facing page: New York’s iconic Times Square; the kitchen at Café Boulud; At Dean & DeLuca; Boulud Sud on Broadway; The maestro himself — Daniel Boulud
Photograph P WAGTOUICZ
Postcard from
T Eat Away
Photograph KAREN ANAND
Photograph JOE
BUGLEWICZ,
NYCGO
eat away postcard — not just on the fashionable and conservative Upper East Side but also further down on the alternative-chic Bowery. Along with other big names like Eric Ripert and Jean-Georges Vongerichten, there is no way you can avoid ‘France’ in some form or the other in the city. I spend a week in the city without eating any fries, hamburgers or steaks – except of course Boulud-style at db Bistro Moderne, (Tel: +1 212 3912400), which serves his interpretation of updated bistro cooking with Manhattan panache. ‘Consummate erudition’, a friend of mine aptly calls it. It is a Manhattan restaurant located in the City Club Hotel on West 44th Street, just a few steps from Times Square and the theatre district on one side and between 5th and 6th Avenue on the other. Boulud’s locations aren’t accidental. They are cleverly manipulated to suit the clientele he is after. At db Bistro Moderne, I have my one and only hamburger on this visit, freshly ground sirloin with a stuffing of tender red winebraised short ribs and foie gras on a homemade toasted Parmesan bun. This is part of the summer menu but during winter you get the ‘Royale’ version with shaved black truffle. It is always served with a pile of perfectly thin shoestring French fries rather than the American-style doorstoppers. The Tarte Flambée, hot cheesy Pizzarettes, Escargot Skewers, affordable wines like the lovely crisp Gruner Veltliner from Austria, warm little lemon-shot Madeleines which magically appear with coffee. Everything is precious without being effete and what’s more, quite a steal for this quality of food (about $ 30 for lunch and $ 45 for a prix fixe dinner menu). The chef also prepares Boulud’s famous seafood extravaganza from Marseille, bouillabaisse, on request. Boulud has been in the United States since the early 1980s but it is in the last 20 years or so that he has built
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masterclass chef skills
GORDON RAMSAY’S
Masterclass
Chocolate fondant must be the ultimate modern classic pudding. It’s easy to understand its appeal – a hot pudding with a molten middle that can be prepared ahead. It’s completely irresistible, so no wonder that it’s the best-selling dessert on my menu.
The great Gordon Ramsay demonstrates his most decadent dessert — a gooey chocolate fondant that shouts party wow! Chocolate fondant Makes 9 n 1 hour + chilling n MODERATELY EASY butter 50g melted, for brushing cocoa powder, for dusting dark chocolate 200g, chopped into small pieces butter 200g, in small pieces golden caster sugar 200g (try Tate & Lyle available at gourmet stores) eggs 4 egg yolks 4 plain flour 200g caramel sauce (see below) vanilla ice cream or orange sorbet to serve
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n Tip the sugar into a heavy-based frying pan, stir in 4 tbsp water, then place over a medium heat until the sugar has dissolved. n Turn up the heat and bubble for 4-5 minutes until you have caramel. Take off the heat, then carefully stir in the cream and butter. Leave the sauce to cool, then tip into a squeezy bottle. n PER SERVING 206 kcals, protein none, carbs 27g, fat 12g, sat fat 7g, fibre none, sugar 27g, salt 0.09g
Styling ANDREW JACKSON Food styling MARK SARGEANT
THE CARAMEL SAUCE caster sugar 250g double cream 142ml (available at your local dairy) butter 50g
EXCLUSIVE STEP-BY-STEP RECIPE
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T Masterclass Learn to cook like a pro in our Masterclass section. Pick up cooking lessons directly from culinary masters in India and abroad. Make restaurant-perfect dishes and pick up fine dining finishing touches of chefs through illustrated step-by-step recipes in Chef Skills. We also feature nifty kitchen gadgets that sharpen your kitchen skills and our 10-minute wine guide is perfect for wine lovers. P 199
— Gordon Ramsay
Recipe GORDON RAMSAY Photographs LIS PARSONS
Our seasoned travel journalists and food experts (who are often residents of the featured locations) arm you with insider information and recipes from the world’s most exciting food destinations. Eat Like A Local brings easy, authentic menus from fantastic food destinations while Budget and Blowout shows you how to get your wallet’s worth when travelling. And City On the Plate features the insider’s food guide to an Indian state. P 189
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All the recipes in Good Food are tested thoroughly, so they’ll work the first time for you at home. Most of our recipes are developed in the Good Food test kitchen by our cookery team or come from food writers and chefs. We aim to make our recipes as practical as possible, keeping ingredient lists to a minimum and avoiding lengthy preparations.
EASY Recipes everyone can make, even beginners. These dishes are usually quick, often on the table within 20 minutes. MODERATELY EASY These require a bit more skill – for example making and rolling out pastry. A LITTLE EFFORT Recipes aimed at experienced cooks who cook for pleasure and like a challenge. CAN BE FROZEN Unless otherwise stated, freeze for up to three months. Defrost thoroughly and heat until piping hot. VEGETARIAN Meat-free dishes. JAIN Suitable for Jain cooking.
How we triple test our recipes
1 2 3
The first time is by the recipe writer, who tests the recipe in a domestic kitchen. Next, a member of the cookery team makes the recipe in the Good Food India kitchen. The recipe is then tested at our photo shoot. Some recipes are tested a fourth time at home by individual members of the Good Food editorial team — we’re all keen cooks and often can’t resist trying out a recipe we particularly love, as soon as we’ve discovered it. Testing our recipes three times or more may seem over-cautious, but mistakes can be costly, so we think it makes sense to ensure you get the right result every time.
Over to you Have a family recipe to share or think you could add to our recipes? Email us at bbcgoodfood@wwm. co.in and let us know. We’re always on the look out for new places and food stories and would love to hear about great places to eat in your hometown.
LOOK OUT FOR THESE HIGHLIGHTS
FOR SKILLED COOKS
Show-off recipes when you fancy a challenge. These recipes require a little effort.
n EASY
008-011-L2 Ready
in 30-STAN R1.indd
n Cook the pasta following pack instructions, adding the broccoli for the last 3 minutes of cooking. While the pasta is cooking, heat a little oil in a pan and gently fry the chilli and garlic until lightly coloured and softened. Add the wine to the pan and simmer for 1 minute. n Drain the pasta and broccoli. Tip into the pan with grated Parmesan and some seasoning, then toss everythin g together. Serve with extra Parmesan shavings. n PER SERVING 467 kcals, protein 21.8g, carbs 57.1g, fat 12.2g, sat fat 5.5g, fibre 3.8g, salt 0.5g
KATE CALDER
Orecchiette with broccoli and wine sauce
Serves 2 n 25 minutes
orecchiette or any small pasta 150g (try De Cecco available at gourmet stores) broccoli spears 200g, halved lengthways if large olive oil 2 tbsp REALLY REALLY red chilli 1, shredded EASY garlic cloves 2, thinly sliced white wine 175ml Parmesan cheese 50g, 1/2 finely grated, 1/2 shaved
n Put a shallow, non-stick baking tray with 2 tbsp olive oil in a 220°C oven to heat. Cook the potatoes in boiling water until just tender, about 5 minutes, then drain. Toss the potatoes in the hot oil, add the olives and the onion to the tray and season. Bake in the oven on the top shelf for 20 minutes until crisp and golden. n Meanwhile, heat a griddle (chargrill) pan or heavy frying pan. Mix the thyme with 1 tbsp olive oil. Brush the chicken with the flavoured oil and season well. Put on the griddle and squeeze over the lemon quarters, then leave the lemons, cut-side down, on the griddle. n Cook the chicken for approximately 5 minutes each side until grill-marked and cooked through. Serve the chicken with a squeeze of lemon juice, the potatoes and a dollop of mayonnaise. n PER SERVING 819 kcals, protein 44.3g, carbs 27.9g, fat 58.8g, sat fat 9.1g, fibre 2.8g, salt 1.6g
INIONS Food styling
Recipes that can be made under 20 minutes. Perfect for hectic weekdays.
n EASY
SMEND Styling CYNTHIA
REALLY REALLY QUICK
Lemon and thyme chicken with roast potatoes and olives
Serves 2 n 30 minutes
potatoes 2 large, peeled and diced into 2cm cubes kalamata olives 14 (try Fragata available at gourmet stores) onion 1/2, thinly sliced thyme 4 sprigs, 2 with leaves stripped olive oil 3 tbsp chicken breasts 2, sliced in half horizontally (not all the way through) and opened out like a book lemon 1, cut into quarters mayonnaise 3 tbsp, with either a squeeze of lemon juice or 1/2 garlic clove, crushed
Photograph MAJA
Those recipes marked with this stamp are the simplest and require very little effort.
Recipe KATE CALDER
REALLY REALLY EASY
92
PROMISE We hope you enjoy our lively mix of recipes, restaurant reviews and travel features. We attempt to make them fun to read, but we are also serious about eating well and doing it sustainably. Here’s what you can expect from this and every issue: TRIPLE-TESTED RECIPES All our recipes are tested at least three times. For great results, we recommend you use standard level measuring spoons, and don’t mix imperial and metric measures. EASY RECIPES Most of Good Food’s recipes are quick and simple to follow and can be made using easily available ingredients. THE ODD CHALLENGE Weekends are perfect for elaborate meals and entertaining. We’ve included a smattering of show-off recipes for those who enjoy a good challenge. GOOD VALUE Look out for our recipes that aim to make the most of your budget — 7 meals for ` 700. We also use full packs, cans and jars where we can, to avoid waste, but if that’s not possible we aim to suggest ways of using up leftovers. SEASONAL EATING We love using seasonal ingredients in our recipes because they give the food a distinct flavour and add seasonal freshness. HEALTHY EATING We reckon the 80% sensible, 20% indulgent way of eating is best which is why we support our recipes with nutritional info. We’ll also tell you how to give popular recipes a healthy makeover. PROVENANCE MATTERS Where possible, we use humanely reared meats, free-range chickens and eggs, sustainably sourced fish and unrefined sugar. INTERNATIONAL SAVVY Sometimes, recipes call for ingredients that aren’t available locally and can’t be brought to India without notching up air / sea miles. It’s your choice whether or not you use them. CHEAP EATS AND SMART TREATS Hole-in-the-wall eateries and fine dining restaurants — there’s room for both in Good Food’s Eat Out pages. LOCAL KNOWLEDGE The Eat Away section arms you with insider info and recipes from the world’s most exciting food destinations written by on-the-ground food journalists. BIG ISSUES Preaching doesn’t come naturally, so we won’t tell you what, or what not to eat. Instead, we keep you up-to-date with issues and debates in the food world in our Good Food Investigates feature. Read about the issues regarding food labels in India on p 66.
16/10/12 3:35 PM
For a list of stores that stock gourmet ingredients, turn to p 209
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One-Touch Premium charcoal grill
barbecue recipes.
booklet with Indian
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need to know good food event
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Lights, Camera,
The fabulous new Good Food kitchen
Sona Bahadur, editor of BBC Good Food India and Tarun Rai, CEO of Worldwide Media Limited, inaugurate the kitchen by uncorking a bottle of bubbly
Kitchen!
The recent launch of BBC Good Food’s swanky test kitchen-studio, the first of its kind in India, was the talk of the food world
G
ood Food recipes always work. And that’s because we like to see, smell and taste each one of our dishes not once but three times. We believe triple-testing our recipes guarantees our readers foolproof results in their kitchens every single time. And that’s what makes them trust us. With this as our guiding philosophy, we unveiled the brand new BBC Good Food kitchen and photography studio at a well-attended and stylish Champagne high tea held in Mumbai. The event kicked off in the late afternoon in the sprawling 1,800 sq ft kitchen at Prabhadevi and was attended by the crème-de-la crème of the culinary world. Those present included several well-known names from the food community such as restaurateur and cookery book writer Camellia Panjabi, food critic Rashmi Uday Singh, TV anchor and keen cook Maria Goretti, patissière Pooja Dhingra and the Consul Generals of Turkey and Israel, Ceylan Ozen and Orna Sagiv respectively. Also present were a number of food bloggers.
Tarun Rai, CEO of Worldwide Media Ltd and Sona Bahadur, Editor BBC Good Food popped open a bottle of bubbly to kick-start the celebrations. Both emphasised the importance of the fullyequipped kitchen in fulfilling the brand’s promise of not just triple testing each recipe but also innovating new ones. Besides recipe testing, the kitchen will be used as a venue for workshops and masterclasses by top chefs from around the world. The recipes made here will be photographed for publication in the adjoining studio. The highlight of the event was a step-bystep masterclass conducted by Alex Sanchez, Executive Chef of The Table restaurant in Mumbai. Sanchez held forth on the intricacies of baking key lime pie to a thoroughly-engaged audience. Key lime tarts were also part of the high tea menu, which included a classic spread of sandwiches, scones, tea biscuits, profiteroles and tarts.
Rashmi Uday Singh in conversation with Tarun Rai
Chef Alex Sanchez demonstrating how to make key lime pie
Sona Bahadur with Chef Surjan Singh Jolly of Renaissance Hotel and Camellia Panjabi
Chef Surjan Singh Jolly with Maria Goretti
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The BBC Good Food team raises a collective toast
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need to know live masterclass
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EASY
GOURMET!
BBC Good Food’s live masterclass with RRO Oils and Chef Gurpreet Singh of Punjab Grill was all about making gourmet food easy for home cooks Words PRIYANKA HOSANGADI Photographs FAROKH JASSAWALA
W
hat if you got a chance to learn some easy dishes that don’t just look good but taste great too? Chef Gurpreet Singh of Punjab Grill restaurant did just that with a group of ten enthusiastic participants in this month's BBC Good Food live masterclass. The event was held in association with RRO Oils at Foodhall in Palladium, Mumbai. Chef Singh showed the participants how to prepare four easy dishes using olive, groundnut, sesame and mustard oils. Singh began with Pink Rose Chicken Escalopes, strips of chicken breast marinated with dried pink rose petals and spices. They were cooked with RRO mustard oil. Singh also surprised the participants by telling them how mustard oil is healthier than even olive oil, as it has less cholesterol. The Tava Grilled Asparagus with Mathri Croutons made next with RRO Til Oil, tasted fresh and crunchy. Along with this, RRO also treated the participants to chatpate aloo cooked in sesame oil. The Tandoori Gucchi with Cream
Cheese Stuffing was an instant hit. Singh explained how gucchi or Kashmiri morels cost up to ` 20,000 per kilo as they need to be washed eight times to remove mud! He stuffed them with cream cheese, toasted pine nuts, coriander, cumin and salt. The morels were then marinated in a blend of RRO groundnut oil, yoghurt, cashew paste, cream, chillies, coriander and cardamom powder and cooked on a tava. A dish with a twist was the Truffle Spiked Mushroom Kulcha. Truffle oil was drizzled on kulchas stuffed with chopped mushrooms like Portobello, button and shiitake. The participants left with goodie bags filled with a variety of RRO oils, leaving them delighted that they got more than they signed up for!
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JANUARY 2011
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Privilege Programme goodfoodprivileges.in
HOME
RESTAURANT OFFERS
PARTNER UPDATES
SHOP ONLINE
GASTRONOMIC ADVENTURES
INDIA’S PRIDE
Pride Hotels (pridehotel.com) has a chain of five-star luxury hotels across the country, offering world-class hospitality standards, combined with excellent ambience and quality service. Foodies are spoilt for choice at Pride — there is something for everyone. Puran da Dhaba showcases authentic North Indian fare, primarily Punjabi cuisine in a rustic dhaba environment. Traditionally, dhabas are found on the outskirts of metros in North India and serve the tastiest local food. Puran da Dhaba brings this rustic experience to the metropolitan cities of Pune, Bengaluru, Nagpur and Chennai. The menu not only offers popular staples like sarson da saag and makki di roti, but also highlights a wide array of Punjabi dishes like hare nimbu wale murgh and murgh kali mirch. Café Treat is the perfect place to meet and mingle. Apart from breakfast, lunch and dinner buffets, this allday café’s menu features traditional and international favourites served in a casual atmosphere. Vegetarians have ample choice at this café. Casablanca Treat yourself to the best of Indian and international cuisine at this fine dining multi-cuisine restaurant at Pride Hotel in Ahmedabad, Bengaluru, Pune and Nagpur. It is the perfect setting for a relaxed evening in a warm and inviting ambience.
All about BBC Good Food India’s Privilege Programme At BBC Good Food India, we believe no reader of ours should ever have to sit down to anything less than a king’s buffet. Which is why when you subscribe to our magazine, you receive an exclusive Privilege Card that allows you to live out all your food fantasies through a host of special offers. You can swing by over 150 hand-picked fine dining restaurants and enjoy special prices, welcome drinks and complimentary desserts. Or head out on fabulous culinary tours and gastronomic adventures around the globe. You can also stock your larder with exotic ingredients and fine wines or pick up fancy chef’s paraphernalia for the kitchen and bar. To savour this lavish offer, visit goodfoodprivileges.in.
To subscribe, SMS GFPC to 58888 or log on to mags.timesgroup.com/good-food.html 36 BBC GoodFood
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NOVEMBER 2012
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first bite news, trends, shopping
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first bite
Chocolicious! Gift your friends and family decadent chocolates in a riot of flavours. Happy Diwali!
GET YOUR FIX
Photograph GARETH MORGANS Food styling JANINE RATCLIFFE
You can find great chocolate selections at: Fantasie Fine Chocolates (fantasiefinechocolates. com), Mumbai; Kookie Jar (kookiejar.in), Kolkata; Mavo Chocolatiers (mavochoc.com), New Delhi; Rage Chocolatier (ragechocolatier.com), Bengaluru; Le Chocolatier (lechocolatier.in), Chennai.
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Chocolate grows up!
Want to add a homemade touch to your festive gifts? Make these chocolatey delights infused with fruity and spicy flavours. Eclectic and different, this is chocolate with an edge Recipes ZEBA KOHLI
Makes approximately 700g n 1 1/2 hours n MODERATELY EASY In a vessel, add 200g condensed milk and 20g coffee powder. Heat slightly in a pan of hot water so that the coffee dissolves and stir well. Cool for 25 minutes. Melt 500g dark chocolate and place in a mould. Turn the mould upside down to make hollow shells. Collect the chocolate that falls out of the mould. Cool shells in a refrigerator for 15 minutes. Remove mould and fill with coffee mixture. Top up the shells with the remaining melted dark chocolate and cool in refrigerator for 20 minutes. Tap each chocolate out lightly from the mould so that it does not break. Serve.
Chocolate mousse Makes approximately 700g n 1 hour n MODERATELY EASY Add 40g cocoa powder to 200g condensed milk. Mix well. Melt 500g dark chocolate. Put in a mould and turn upside down to make hollow shells. Collect the chocolate that falls out of the mould. Cool shells in a refrigerator for 15 minutes. Take mould out and fill them with cocoa powder and the condensed milk mixture. Top up the shells with the balance melted dark chocolate. Cool in refrigerator for 20 minutes and serve.
Ginger truffles Makes approximately 600g n 1 hour 30 minutes n EASY Boil 50g fresh cream and cool completely. Mix with 150g melted milk chocolate, 75g grated ginger and stir well. Melt 325g milk chocolate. Put in a mould and turn upside down to
make hollow shells. Collect the chocolate that falls out of the mould. Cool shells in refrigerator for 15 minutes. Take mould out and fill with the ginger truffle mixture. Top up the shells with the remaining melted milk chocolate. Cool in the refrigerator for 20 minutes and serve.
Orange truffles Makes approximately 500g n 2 hours n EASY Boil 50g fresh cream and let it cool. Mix with 400g melted dark chocolate and stir well. Add 8ml orange essence and cool in the refrigerator. The truffle is now ready. Arrange on a tray. Melt and temper 100g dark chocolate. Put in a mould. Turn mould upside down to make hollow shells. Collect the chocolate that falls out of the mould. Cool shells in refrigerator for 15 minutes. Remove shells and fill up with orange truffle mixture. Top up the shells with the balance melted dark chocolate. Cool for 20 minutes. Serve with coffee.
the mould. Turn the mould upside down to make hollow shells. Collect the chocolate that falls out from the mould. Cool shells in a refrigerator for 15-20 minutes. Remove mould and fill with chilli mixture. Top up the shells with the remaining melted dark chocolate. Cool in the refrigerator for 20 minutes. Tap out the chocolates lightly from their moulds so that they do not break. Each chocolate will have a green shaded effect on the top. Arrange on a platter and serve. Adorn the platter with a few fresh green chillies.
Hot chilli chocolates
Makes approximately 500g n 1 hour n EASY Boil 50g fresh cream and allow to cool. Add 150g melted dark chocolate and stir well. Add a drop of chilli juice. Mix well and cool. To shade the moulds, add green food colouring in 25g melted white chocolate and shade the mould. Let it dry. Melt and temper 300g dark chocolate and put in
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Zeba Kohli is Managing Director of Fantasie Fine Chocolates
Photograph ADRIAN TAYLOR
Mocha mousse
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need to know news, trends, shopping
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The foodie’s wish list Zero-stress Diwali shopping is a cakewalk with these fabulous culinary gifts perfect for every kind of food lover
Lindt, Lindor Milk Cubes, (425g), ` 1,700 Gift your special ones this smooth, fondant-encased chocolate and watch them melt. Available at select outlets — The Painted Truffle (Atria mall in Mumbai), Godrej Nature’s Basket and HyperCity.
Words PRIYANKA HOSANGADI
Himalya Fresh Kaju Katli, ` 225 Your grandparents will approve of this traditional mithai made without any preservatives or artificial ingredients. Get them the kaju katli made with the finest cashews and cane sugar. Available at retail stores.
Chocolates & Mithai
Patchi, Gold Chocolate Box, ` 1,600 Brighten up your neighbour’s Diwali with this gold box that has three kinds of premium milk chocolate. Tel: +91 11 40575038.
Haldiram’s, Meethe Meethe Pal, ` 345 Rich gulab jamuns and rasgullas make the perfect sweet endings for dinner parties! Available at stores and Haldiram’s retail outlets.
The Chocolate Room, Gift Collection, ` 180 onwards Get spoilt for choice with a vibrant collection of tins and gift boxes containing delectable truffles and pralines, made by this boutique chocolate café. Visit thechocolateroomindia.com
POOJA’S WISH LIST Pooja Dhingra is the owner of Le 15 Patisserie T A trip to Paris with an unlimited food budget! T A KitchenAid stand mixer (because mine is broken and this is God’s gift to any baker) T A meal at Momofuku or Noma T Black Hawaiian sea salt T Salted butter caramel (Contd.)
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need to know news, trends, shopping
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Morphy Richards, Ceramico Electric Kettle, ` 3395 Gift this pretty ceramic kettle, the first of its kind in India, to someone who loves his or her cuppa! Visit morphyrichardsindia.com
Vinod, 202 Stainless Steel Tall Belly Casserole Made from the best steel, this casserole is vital for any kitchen. Why not give it to someone who loves trying out new dishes? Available at all leading stores.
Cookware Nirlep, Diablo toasted snack maker, ` 550 Make cooking with children fun by getting your friend this snack maker that makes round, grilled sandwiches instead of regular square ones. Available at select stores. Email consumercare@nirlep. com for more details.
Vinod, Induction Cooktop Help save on cooking fuel bills with this energy-efficient induction cooktop. Available at all leading stores.
Borosil, Microwavable Snack Set, ` 2,290 This microwavable snack set is the perfect gift for someone who likes hosting tea parties. Visit borosil.com.
AISHWARYA’S WISH LIST Aishwarya Nair is Corporate Food and Wine Consultant, The Leela Palaces T An espuma (a nitrogencharged siphon used to create foam) — for the experimental side of my cookery T A mint-coloured mini kitchenette with a pasta maker attached T Dehydrator cabins to make my own ‘pick me up fruit snacks’ T Vacuum marinators
44 BBC GoodFood
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(Contd.) NOVEMBER 2012
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need to know news, trends, shopping
WorldMags.net Nuts ‘n’ Spices, Gourmet Gift Hampers, ` 3,200 and ` 4,900 Healthy and delicious, these hampers have a mix of the finest dry fruits, nuts, imported chocolates, cookies and a diya. Visit nutsnspices.in
Regal Plus, Diwali Hamper, ` 2,100 Gift your loved ones this gourmet hamper with a wide variety of products that they can easily use at home. Tel: +91 22 26041204/ 26041208/ 26465070.
Gourmet Hampers Foodhall, Organic Gourmet Hamper, ` 5,450 A box of eco-friendly gourmet goodies is a real treat, especially when it includes exotic, organic products. Tel: +91 22 30264581 (Mumbai) or +91 80 22086533 (Bengaluru).
Olive Tree Trading, Sale di Cervia, ` 550 Have friends who love experimenting in the kitchen? Help jazz up their dishes by gifting them raw sea salt from Cervia in Italy or white truffle oil by Tartufalba. Visit olivetreetrading.com.
RAHUL’S WISH LIST Rahul Akerkar is MD and Director, deGustibus Hospitality T A bottle of the fine La Romanee-Conti 2001 wine from France T White truffles from Alba, Piedmont in Italy (Contd.) 46 BBC GoodFood
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NOVEMBER 2012
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need to know news, trends, shopping
WorldMags.net Cold Food Company, Supreme Gourmet Hamper, ` 5,400 Gift quality and quantity with this homemade hamper that includes a spread of dips, salad dressings, marinades, chocolate fudge, muffins and cookies. Call +91 9820536252 at least a week in advance to place an order.
Gourmet Hampers
Organic Haus, Diwali Hamper, ` 1,000 onwards Choose what you want in your hamper, whether it is organic dry fruits and nuts, chips, pasta, honey, dark chocolate or coffee. Tel: +91 22 23522588 (Mumbai), +91 79 26445593 (Ahmedabad) and +91 124 4300914/913 (New Delhi and NCR).
Godrej Nature’s Basket, Healthy You Hamper, ` 1,600 onwards Perfect for fitness enthusiasts, this hamper includes various healthy options such as organic honey, muesli and tulsi tea. Visit naturesbasket.co.in.
The Leela, The Dolce hamper, ` 8,000 (inclusive of taxes) If your best friend has a sweet tooth, this hamper is your best bet. It includes toffee banana coffee dusted tarts, chewy toffee cookies, macarons and the classic salted caramel petit gateaux. Tel: +91 22 66911234. Email private.dining.mumbai@ theleela.com.
MANISH’S WISH LIST Manish Mehrotra is the Executive Chef of Indian Accent, New Delhi T A bottle of wine specially matured and bottled for me (with my name on the bottle) T Le Creuset casserole, any size (if you want to give someone a kitchenware star for a lifetime) T Kitchen knife from Global (every kitchen needs one) T The Flavour Thesaurus (a musthave book for every food lover)
(Contd.) 48 BBC GoodFood
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NOVEMBER 2012
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need to know news, trends, shopping
WorldMags.net Ching’s Secret, Green and Red Curry Pastes, ` 140 each Recreate the famous Thai green curry or the fiery red curry at home with Ching’s Secret’s curry pastes. Available at leading stores.
Kohinoor, Celebration Pack (3kg), ` 549 (1kg), ` 199 Choose Festival Celebration Packs of either 1kg or 3kg of Kohinoor’s best varieties of basmati rice. Available at retail stores.
Pantry Heroes KRBL, India Gate Classic Basmati Rice (2kg), ` 399 Gift this attractive pack to your neighbour who is well known for her biryani! Available at retail stores.
Dom Pérignon, Grand Vintage 2003, ` 15,000 Make a favourable impression on your boss with this vibrant yet intense Champagne. Available at all leading wine stores and duty-free shops.
Pause, Tempranillo, ` 540 (750ml) Recently launched in India, this Spanish wine pairs well with food and is great for that friend who loves holding wine tastings. Available at wine stores (except in North India).
Wines & Spirits Sula Vineyards, Dindori Reserve, Shiraz (750ml), ` 850 This fragrant Reserve Shiraz has lush berry flavours. Served lightly chilled, the full-bodied wine pairs well with grilled meat and hard cheeses. Available at all leading wine stores.
York Winery, Wine Gift Set, ` 600 No wine enthusiast should have to do without this five-piece wine gift set. Available at the York Winery’s Tasting Room near Nasik. Tel: +91 25 32230700
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need to know news, trends, shopping
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Photograph SABA GAZIYANI
Fusion food
THE CASE FOR THE CASE AGAINST Familiarity does breed contempt. I just can’t seem to wrap my head Especially when it comes to around absurd food combos. We’ve eating. Enter fusion food with all grown up on Chinese bhel, ingredients from different parts tandoori chicken pizzas and spicy of the world, and voila, an exciting Manchurian (a dish that has never new dish is born. Right from seen the light of day in China), but Schezuan dosa in my college I will always raise my eyebrows canteen to chai-flavoured crème at fusion for the sake of it. After brûlée, unconventional culinary all, why do my taste buds have concoctions have always taken my to suffer for ingredients that are taste buds on a trip. Infusing classic simply paired for shock value? wasabi with malai may be deemed While I am no food fascist, when sacrilegious by purists but isn’t it comes to abominations such gastronomy all about innovation as sushi with maple syrup and and experimentation? Besides, Chettinad mushroom pani puri, in a rapidly I say nay. I can shrinking do without world, the kind of cross-cultural culinary influences mess on food are that ensues as a welcome. And result. Fusion sounds Punjabi chola hummus with desirable. like confusion to me. jeera nachos - KHORSHED DEBOO - MEHER MIRZA
CUPBOARD LOVE BALSAMIC VINEGAR How to use up…
T Balsamic roasted tomatoes Divide 400g cherry tomatoes, 2 garlic cloves, 2 tbsp olive oil and 2 tbsp balsamic vinegar between two containers. Roast on a baking sheet for 20 minutes. Scatter with a few basil leaves and serve with crusty bread. T Red onion, feta and olive tart Fry 2 sliced red onions until soft and add 2 tbsp brown sugar and 2 tbsp balsamic vinegar to it. Cook until juices are syrupy. Leave to cool. Cover the centre of a filo pastry sheet with the onion mix. Scatter with 100g feta and 175g black olives. Drizzle 1 tbsp olive oil over the topping. Bake until crisp and serve with a green salad. T Balsamic and brown sugar roasted carrots Spread 500g carrots on a roasting tin, drizzle with 2 tbsp olive oil and 2 tbsp balsamic vinegar, then sprinkle 2 tsp sugar. Season with sea salt and black pepper and roast, turning occasionally until the sugar caramelises T Honey mustard chicken with herb salad Mix 2 tbsp honey and 1 tbsp mustard together, season and brush all over 2 chicken breasts. Grill the chicken until golden and cooked through, then slice. Divide herb salad, 100g cherry tomatoes and the chicken between 2 plates. Drizzle with 2 tbsp olive oil and 1 tbsp balsamic vinegar.
SUPERMARKET SWEEP Pop into your supermarket for a speedy Oriental supper TOTAL CO ST
` 252
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+ +
+ +
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Sweet chilli prawn cakes Serves 2 n 15 minutes + marinating n EASY In a food processor, roughly blitz a pack of Cambay prawns (` 160/200g), which were previously marinated in 3 tbsp of Blue Dragon’s Sweet Chilli Dipping Sauce (` 99/190ml) for 30 minutes. Add a handful of chopped coriander (` 8/100g) to the prawns. Season to taste and mix well. Form the mix into small patties and fry for a couple of minutes on each side, until browned. Remove, then quickly stir-fry in a little oil, 1 tbsp of chopped garlic (` 8/100g), and a big bowlful of chopped pok choy (` 21/100g), bell peppers (` /18/100g), broccoli (` 25/100g) and purple cabbage (` 16/100g). Toss the vegetables until heated through, but still crunchy. Season to taste and split the veggies between two plates. Serve the prawn cakes with a side of the sweet chilli dipping sauce. All ingredients available at Foodhall.
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Photograph MYLES NEW
THE JURY’S OUT
need to know news, trends, shopping
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HOT ON THE SHELF!
Photographs VINIT BHATT
ROLAND QUINOA GARDEN VEGETABLE Roland’s Garden Vegetable flavour is a new way to savour quinoa. The instructions say that the quinoa takes 15-18 minutes to cook. But we found that it takes longer. Also, sadly, very little of the vegetable flavour came through. What you get is the flavour of vegetable stock, which lends the quinoa just enough seasoning to make it the perfect base for a tabbouleh-style salad. This quinoa definitely needs a citrus element to highlight its inherent nuttiness. You can also mix with it sambhar for a delicious, power-packed lunch. ` 318 for a 155g pack
food-o-meter
SPICY MISO DIP
YEO’S SAMBAL OELECK
If you seek out the elusive fifth taste called umami, it’s likely that you love miso, the Japanese condiment made by fermenting soya beans. Miso is used as a marinade for fish and chicken, as a base for soup or as a side to vegetables and rice. This miso dip with its sweet rather than spicy flavour is meant to be a dipping sauce for vegetable crudités. We felt its flavour is better highlighted when it is used as a base for a soup. We used two generous tbsp of the paste and diluted it with vegetable stock to make a soba noodle soup with spring onions and shiitake mushrooms. The miso paste enriched the flavour of the noodles and its sweetness paired perfectly with the mushrooms. ` 200 for a 30g packet with three sachets
Sambal oeleck is a simple Indonesian condiment. The condiment is meant to be a spicy and sweet-sour chilli sauce. However, Yeo’s Sambal Oeleck wasn’t quite as hot as we expected. The sauce is sweet enough to be used as a dip. The recipe on the bottle recommends using it as a marinade for fish, mixed with plum sauce. But we say skip the plum sauce unless you don’t mind sweetness in a savoury dish. Add a couple of teaspoons of the sambal to lend a saucy touch to fried rice or marinate some tofu in it and stir-fry along with pok choy and mushrooms for a healthy, quick-fix dinner. ` 185 for a 250g bottle
CELEBRATING GOOD FOOD DAY
This month’s food vibes and gripes
C
T GOING LOCAL We’re all for chefs working with local produce rather than racking up food miles with imported ingredients.
T GOURMET WEBSITES They deliver around the country at a discounted price — what’s not to like?
T FRO YO
D
We’re sick of this profusion of frozen yoghurt places, half of which are just selling ice cream.
T IMPORTED FRUITS Can we have more Nagpur oranges and Kashmiri apples instead of their imported cousins?
52 BBC GoodFood
October 21, 2012 marked the first anniversary of BBC Good Food Magazine India. We commemorated the occasion as Good Food Day, just as we had done last year. The celebratory event was held at the ITC Grand Central in Mumbai between noon to 4:30 pm. Acclaimed chefs rustled up a storm of global classics in keeping with our first anniversary issue theme, creating an impressive spread across three cuisines. Fans enjoyed blockbuster Indian, Pan Asian and modern European dishes for a steal at ITC Hotel’s Kebabs and Kurries, Shanghai
Club and Hornby’s Pavilion respectively. The formidable line-up pf chefs included Kulsum Begum, Hyderabadi / Salar Jung food consultant to the ITC Hotels, Masterchef Haji Mohammad Farooqui and expat Chinese chef Yang Jiayu. The other celebrity chefs who graced the occasion included Chef Gresham Fernandes of Smoke House Deli, Chef Viraf Patel of Café Zoe, Chef Jaydeep Mukherjee of Indigo Deli, Le 15 Patisserie’s Pooja Dhingra, Lemongrass chef Nitin Tandon and Busaba’s Nikhil Chib. Priced at ` 1,500, the event was sold out. Adding to the celebrations, select restaurants across eight cities partnered with BBC Good Food for Good Food Day, offering discounts and special menus. Specially-designed Good Food Day subscription offers were extended to customers of participating restaurants, Foodhall and to those at the ITC Hotels event. Free passes to the Good Food Day event at The ITC Hotels were also given out to our fans, who were encouraged to upload the image of the dish that they had tried for the first time as part of the festivities.
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NOVEMBER 2012
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COOL COCKTAILS drink up booze
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Discover these stylish sips from around the world. Cheers!
Middle-Eastern rose martini
Mexican michelada Serves 4 n 5 minutes n EASY
Serves 1 n 5 minutes n EASY Recipe HARVEY NICHOLS Add 2 measures of rose syrup for every 1 of vodka, shake over ice and serve in chilled martini glasses.
Italian sgroppino Serves 1 n 10 minutes n EASY Recipe DIFFORDS GUIDE TO COCKTAILS Put 1/2 shot vodka, 1/4 shot double cream, 1 1/2 shots Prosecco and 3 scoops of lemon sorbet in a blender; whizz, then serve in a Champagne flute, garnished with a lemon twist.
Recipe ADAM RUSSELL Pour 4 tbsp sea salt onto a plate. Dip 4 long glasses into the juice of 6 limes, then into the salt, so you get a little salt rim around the top of the glass. Put some ice into each glass, then divide the lime juice between the glasses and top up with lager. Finish with a dash of Tabasco or Worcestershire sauce if you like.
Cranberry sangria Recipe ANNA HELM Stir 500ml cranberry juice together with 500ml red wine and the juice of 1 lemon, then add sparkling water to taste. Drop in slices of peach and orange and serve over ice.
Italian sgroppino
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Photograph GARETH MORGANS
Serves 6 n 10 minutes n EASY
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need to know pantry basics
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ON TEST Muesli
Which muesli gives you the power-packed brekkie boost you need? We tried six popular varieties to figure Words KAINAZ CONTRACTOR Photographs VINIT BHATT Product courtesy FOODHALL
DR. OETKER ` 189/375G
A simple blend of chocolate-flavoured oat flakes and rice crisps, DrOetker’s muesli is the perfect starting point to weaning your children away from more processed wheat and corn cereals. But its malty, digestive biscuit and rice crispy flavour may not find favour amongst adults seeking a more nutritive breakfast dish. This German muesli’s chocolate taste in no way reminds us of the Bircher muesli that we’re fond of eating. This is odd given the fact that the ratio of whole grain oat flakes is nearly 55 per cent. This brand doesn’t have any added nuts or fruits, which makes it more of a chocolate-flavoured breakfast cereal rather than muesli.
BAGRRY’S ` 170/425G
This wholesome and mildly sweetened muesli is excellent value for money. We love the fact that rolled oats account for nearly 38.6 per cent of the total quantity, higher than all the other brands. As it doesn’t contain any dehydrated fruits apart from raisins, this muesli has low sugar content. Bagrry’s muesli even comes in a no added sugar variant that has found favour with diabetics and dieters. The almonds come whole or roughly chopped as opposed to thin slivers; this adds more of a bite. This mixture of oats and whole-wheat flakes stays crunchy even after soaking in chilled milk.
FABINDIA ORGANICS ` 260/350G
Packed with rolled oats, rice flakes and generous servings of dates, raisins and cashews, Fabindia’s muesli is healthy and delivers a nutritious start to the day. It has a distinctive taste thanks to jaggery, making it wholesome but not cloyingly sweet. Though a worthy contender, it loses out due to the overtly crunchy organic rice flakes that can only be softened with warm milk. But the rice flakes make it a great alternative for those looking to cut out wheat from their diet. This muesli also has the least fat and calories, perfect for weight watchers.
ALPEN ` 495/750G
The powdery appearance of the muesli was a tad disconcerting but when we realised it was in fact milk powder and not excess flour, we were at ease. We’re always sold on anything that has hazelnuts, which is why the barely detectable hazelnuts are disappointing. We were impressed we could taste the individual wheat and oat flakes here, and the mixture of raisins and almonds gave a subtle crunch. The soft wheat flakes are smaller and thinner than other brands, which makes this a lighter breakfast bowl. It may not remain crunchy for long but keeps hunger pangs at bay. 56 BBC GoodFood
EXPRESS FOODS ` 155/400G
LOVES
♥
The mixture of crisp, honey-coated rolled oats and wheat flakes speckled with plump raisins and almonds makes this an outright winner. The fact that it has no added sugar is a bonus. It has the highest quantity of oats plus the natural sweetness of raisins makes it more wholesome, both in terms of flavour and nutrition. The whole almonds add texture, making it a perfect topping for crumble, too. Given that oats have a prolonged energy release, we also found ourselves nibbling on this as an evening snack to mollify the munchies. This was the only muesli that was delicious by itself and could be eaten without any milk or orange juice.
KELLOGG’S ` 105/ 275G
Those with a sweet tooth will love this muesli. With fleeting traces of rolled oats and barley (16 per cent), Kellogg’s muesli has more sugar-coated corn and wheat flakes, almonds and dehydrated fruit such as dates, raisins, apples, peaches and papaya. If you buy it as a breakfast mix of fruits and cereal, it works great but as muesli, this mix leaves a little to be desired. Slightly too sugary with sweetened cereal and candied fruits, this muesli has a lower concentration of oats than ideal. But we have to hand it to Kellogg’s muesli for surviving a fiveminute soak and still retaining its crunch.
KNOW YOUR MUESLI
T The fat content in muesli comes from the nuts. Plus, some of the fruits are coated in vegetable oil, preventing them from clumping together. T Muesli is denser than most other cereals, so be careful how much you eat — it’s easy to double your portion size without noticing! On the upside, you’ll get double the fibre, too. T Most mueslis are made with either rolled or toasted flakes. Rolled implies that steam has passed through a roller to break down the fibres – these are the floury flakes you see. Toasted flakes are pressure-cooked, rolled, then oventoasted to provide a crisper flake.
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NOVEMBER 2012
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need to know news, trends, shopping
BARGAINHUNTER
WorldMags.net All prices PER HEAD excluding taxes and travel
BBC Good Food tracks down this month’s best value foodie events, meals and deals Words KAINAZ CONTRACTOR
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` 160-A-HEAD DINNER PARTY FOR FOUR!
T
NEW DELHI
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` 650 VALUE-FOR-MONEY BRUNCH, PUNE
` 299 LUNCH DEAL,
We’ve always found that the best approach to sniffing out a good VFM lunch deal is to follow the corporates. So it’s no surprise that the corporate hub that is Gurgaon is teeming with such deals. Though Gurgaon is well known in ale circles for its micro breweries, it also has numerous well-stocked bars and restaurants like the Urban Café. This neatly done-up café at the DLF Promenade serves everything from Lebanese platters and sushi to thin-crust pizzas and tandoori dishes. Their unlimited lunch buffet however includes only the Indian selection of starters, salads, curries, dals, rice and dessert. (Tel: +91 11 66487893)
T Ricotta and basil pizza (p 101) ` 225
T Pasta with peppers, raisins and almonds (p 82) ` 260 T Spanish churros (p 112) ` 157 Total ` 642 (` 160.5 per head)
T
` 499 CORPORATE LUNCH,
MUMBAI
If you have yet to visit the recently-opened F Lounge.Diner.Bar in Mumbai, the brilliant-value weekday set lunch menu at ` 499 is one great reason to visit now. At the helm is Chef Vineet Bhatia who has devised the modern Indian dishes while Chef Rakesh Talwar has created the European fare. At lunch, enjoy dishes such as Deep Fried Corn Balls and Creamy Chicken Tarts, followed by Maa Ki Daal, Chicken Hyderabadi, Paneer Masaledar and more from the live pasta and tapas counters. While you’re there, remember to order a side of Peanut Butter Chicken Wings, it’s totally worth the off-the-menu ordering! (Tel: +91 22 66505820)
Here’s a sumptuous deal that won’t leave a deep hole in your pocket. Pune’s Italian restaurant, Pesto Pesto has now introduced a VFM Sunday Brunch deal. For a very economical ` 650, treat yourself to an unlimited spread of impressive salads, antipasti, roast meats, salami, Italian cheeses, and a range of speciality pizzas and pastas. Some of the dishes on offer include a Chicken and Cheese Pizza, Green Olive, Tuna and Red Pepper Salad and Parma Ham and Melon Salad. The spectacular city view from the 12th floor is the icing on the (cheese) cake! (Tel: +91 20 30570433 ext: 239)
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need to know wellbeing
healthy ingredientcorn WorldMags.net
Make the most of this deliciously healthy grain that is rich in fibre and antioxidants Words MOINA LUTHER
Corn salad
WHY IS IT GOOD FOR ME? Although corn is available throughout the year, the best time to eat it is during the summer months when it is at its freshest. Corn is rich in two vital health components — fibre and antioxidants. Fresh and popped corn are a great source of fibre; this nourishes our lower digestive tract, reducing risk of colon cancer and other intestinal infections. Corn is rich in antioxidants, largely carotenoids that are known to protect our body from free radicals and hence excellent for preventing disease. Corn is also beneficial for the eyes.
REALLY REALLY QUICK
Serves 2 n 30 minutes n EASY olive oil a dash, onion 1/2, chopped, corn 2 large shelled cobs, water 4 tbsp, sugar to taste, salt to taste, pepper to taste, nutmeg to taste n Add the olive oil to a medium saucepan. Add in the chopped onion, cook gently for 8-10 minutes to soften, then add the corn and the water. Stir and cover, cook for 10-12 minutes until the corn is tender and remove from the fire. Then add a pinch of sugar, some seasoning and a good grating of nutmeg. Serve. n PER SERVING 309 kcals, protein 5g, carbs 22g, fat 23g, sat fat 13g, fibre 3g, sugar 5g, salt 1.1g
Recipe ADAM RUSSELL Photograph GARETH MORGANS Styling MORAG FARQUHAR Food styling LUCY WILLIAMS
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ound to have been cultivated as far back as 8,000 years ago in Mesoamerican civilisations corn, also known as maize, spread widely through the Americas and was later exported by European traders to other countries. Today, corn is one of the most highly cultivated crops in the world. It comes in several varieties but most people associate it with the sugar-rich variety known as sweet corn. Although many people use it as a vegetable, botanically, corn is classified as a grain. Cornmeal (ground dried corn) is a staple food in kitchens all over the world. It is used to make bread, in porridge and even in desserts in parts of America, Europe, Africa and Asia. Cornstarch is a major ingredient in modern kitchens, but it is also used in products such as corn oil, corn syrup and even corn-based alcohols like bourbon whiskey.
TIPS FOR COOKING CORN n If you are boiling or steaming corn, do not add salt while cooking as it dehydrates the kernels. n Do not cook for more than 5 minutes. n Add corn in dips to add some bite and flavour. n Add corn in soups for more nourishment. n Mix corn in salads to add some natural sweetness. n The healthiest, simplest and tastiest way to cook corn is a traditional, steamed corn on the cob. Steaming the corn retains its nutrients, flavour and sweetness. Try it with some olive oil, salt and crushed peppercorn.
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spotlight green chillies
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need to know
Green chillies More than just a way to give our dishes a heaty kick, Indian green chillies are versatile and get top marks for nutrition Words VIDYA BALACHANDER Photograph RITAM BANERJEE
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I
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ndians in general are a heatseeking lot: we relish spice and don’t shy away from lacing our food with it. And if there’s one flavour from our spice arsenal that slices across regional boundaries, it is undoubtedly the humble hari mirchi. Our initiation to the peppery heat of the green chilli happens early on in our lives. From then on, whether it is to add punch to a tadka or a mild sting to coconut chutney, we turn to the green chilli in all its punchy, crunchy glory. When you consider how closely the green chilli is connected with Indian cooking, it seems improbable that it was once a foreign flavour. Whereas wild forms of chillies were found in Mexico way back in 5,000 BC, there are no mentions of it in Indian literature until the 16th Century AD. Food historian KT Achaya notes in his book A Historical Dictionary of Indian Food that long black peppers were the predominant spices used to add pungency to Indian dishes. Christopher Columbus and Vasco da Gama are thought to have brought the chilli plant to Indian shores from the Americas. The tropical Indian climate proved suitable to its cultivation and its fruits began to be used widely in cooking. Most of the green chillies that are cultivated in India belong to the Capsicum Annuum species. This includes non-spicy varieties such as bell peppers as well as hotter varieties. Our markets are swamped with green chillies in different shapes and sizes – small, forest green chillies that look like miniature bell peppers (commonly known as Bhavnagari mirchi), thin and long, dark green chillies (also called Kolhapuri lavangi mirchi in Maharashtra, where the mature fruit is powdered to make searingly hot Kolhapuri masala), and large fleshy chillies that are stuffed and batter-fried. Despite having such a large variety of green chillies though, they haven’t grabbed our imagination and the world’s attention in the same NOVEMBER 2012
way as famous red chilli varieties such as the mild and flavourful Kashmiri chilli, used to render dishes with its deep red hue and the spicy Guntur Sannam type that is grown in Andhra Pradesh and exported in vast quantities. Perhaps this has to do with the fact that while green chillies are usually used fresh, red chillies are available in dried, powdered and flaked form. The drying process adds depth to the flavour of the chillies,
spotlight green chillies
tissue called the placenta that has the highest concentration of the chemical called capsaicin, which is responsible for the chilli’s spiciness. Hence, the most effective way to reduce a chilli’s potency is to slice away the placenta and the seeds within it. However, unless you absolutely cannot tolerate heat, braving a green chilli every now and then is good for you. Green chillies are rich in vitamins A and C, and are a good source of iron
“Most regional Indian cuisines have at least one dish in which green chillies are pivotal. For instance, the Maharashtrian coarse chutney, hirva mirchicha techa, made with chillies, peanuts and garlic” which makes them particularly suitable to use as a base for complex curries and other Indian preparations. The contribution of green chillies is best highlighted in the dishes that are defined by them. Most regional cuisines have at least one dish in which green chillies play a pivotal role. Take for instance the Maharashtrian accompaniment, hirvya mirchicha thecha. The simplicity of the dish is its defining characteristic – green chillies are dry roasted and pounded with peanuts, garlic and salt to make a coarse chutney that enlivens even the dreariest of meals with its earthy heat. In contrast, the large green chillies (Bhavnagari chillies) that are used in a Hyderabadi mirchi ka salan are mild and act as a vessel for the flavourful gravy made of dry coconut, poppy seeds (or khus-khus), sesame seeds and peanuts. The kick of green chillies is dulled and replaced with salty crunchiness when they are coated with a spiced curd mixture and sun-dried to make thayir molagai, a popular Tamil accompaniment. Thayir molagais are fried in oil and eaten as a sharp contrast to curd rice. It may seem like the seeds of the green chilli account for its pungency, but in fact, it’s the white, spongy
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and potassium. In fact, a green chilli contains six times as much vitamin C as an orange. The chemical capsaicin affects the body’s temperature regulation, making us feel hotter than we actually are and consequently causing us to break into a sweat. This increases the body’s metabolic rate, so you burn more energy and store less as fat. It also stimulates your adrenaline gland, which is why biting into a raw green chilli is likened to chasing a thrill. With so many uses for this ubiquitous fruit, it is a little surprising that it is only commonly available in its fresh form. The main challenge for manufacturers is to retain the vibrant green colour of the chilli after it is dried. When dried, green chillies have been found to have a higher concentration of vitamin A and other nutrients than in their fresh form. This is what inspired the Central Institute of Post Harvest Engineering and Technology in Ludhiana to develop the technology to prepare green chilli powder and purée in 2011. Green chilli powder under the brand name Farm Green has now been introduced in Ludhiana. With this innovation, versatile green chillies may finally find a broader range of uses, even beyond India’s borders. BBC GoodFood 63
Advertorial
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INDIA’S GOT TASTE BBC Good Food India discovers how Indus Pride, India’s first beer brewed with Indian spices, perfectly pairs up with Indian gourmet cuisine
LAAL MAAS
NARGISI KOFTA CURRY
Photographs 123RF/ COKEMOMO, LADDAWAN HENGTABTIM, MARINA PISSAROVA
Indus Pride Citrusy Coriander boasts of delicate coriander and citrus-accented aromas. It's a zesty, refreshing beer with a touch of earthiness brought on by the brew's precise blend of coriander and hops. Pair this beer with an exotic Nargisi kofta curry, cooked with aromatic spices. Serves 4 1 hour 30 minutes lMix 2 cups kheema, 2 tsp ginger-garlic paste, 1/2 tsp chilli powder, 1 tsp turmeric powder, 1 tsp garam masala powder and salt. Divide into 6 portions and place a hard boiled egg in the centre of each. Close the edges and roll such that the egg is covered with the kheema. Roll in maida and keep aside. Repeat for all the eggs. Deep fry for 10 minutes on a low flame. Sauté 2 chopped onions till they turn translucent. Add 4 tsp ginger-garlic paste and fry for 3 minutes. Add paste of 3 tomatoes, 2 tsp coriander powder, 1 tsp cumin, 1/2 tsp turmeric, 1/2 tsp chilli powder and 1 tsp garam masala powder. Once the oil separates, add 8 tbsp yoghurt and 1/2 cup water and bring to the boil. Simmer for 2 minutes. Add the koftas just before serving.
SHAHI PANEER
The delicately-flavoured Indus Pride Citrusy Cardamom pays homage to the grand elaichi, the world's third most expensive spice. This uniquely Indian spice is what gives the beer its sweet, floral yet spicy notes and citrus charm. Try it with the traditional Rajasthani laal maas. Serves 4 30 minutes lAdd 1 tbsp ginger-garlic paste, 3 tsp red chilli paste, salt and 1 cup yoghurt. Marinate 600g mutton in this mixture for 30 minutes. Heat 4 tbsp oil in a pressure cooker and sauté 2 cinnamon sticks, 2 bay leaves and 5 green cardamoms. Add 3 chopped onions and cook for 3 minutes. Grind 8 dried red chillies and 2 tbsp coriander seeds to a powder. Add 2 tbsp of this and 10 chopped garlic cloves to the cooker and cook for 2 minutes. Add the mutton and sauté on a high flame for 3 minutes. Mix 1 1/2 cups water. Close the cooker lid and take off the flame after 6 whistles. Open the lid after the pressure has reduced and serve hot.
A sip of the Indus Pride Fiery Cinnamon reveals its complex flavours — a strong cinnamon base, with hints of piquant chilli and tangy tamarind. Both comforting and exotic at the same time, this brew is the perfect contrast to a rich, creamy Shahi paneer.
GOAN FISH CURRY Complexly textured yet perfectly balanced, Indus Pride Spicy Fennel tastes fresh and lively, with a hit of anise, a dash of chilli and hint of nutmeg. A Goan fish curry best brings out the brew's tangy woody tones. Serves 4 1 hour lCut 800g surmai into 6 pieces. Dry roast 2 tsp cumin seeds, 2 tbsp coriander seeds and 6 dried red chillies. Add 1/2 cup grated coconut, 12 chopped garlic cloves, chopped 2 inch piece of ginger and 3 tbsp tamarind pulp. Apply some paste to the fish and keep aside for 30 minutes. Sauté 1 chopped onion till it turns golden. Add 2 slit green chillies and cook for 4 minutes. Add the remaining paste and cook for 5 minutes. Add 1 1/2 cups water and bring to the boil. Add the fish pieces and salt to taste. Simmer for around 5 minutes.
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Serves 4 45 minutes lGrind 2 onions to a fine paste. Heat 2 tbsp oil in a kadai and add 3 cloves, 1 cinnamon stick, 1 bay leaf. Sauté till fragrant. Add the onion paste, 2 slit green chillis and sauté for 3 minutes on a low flame. Add 2 tsp ginger-garlic paste and cook for another minute. Mix 1/4 cup cashew paste and sauté for 2 minutes. Add 1/2 cup yoghurt, 1/2 cup cream, pinch of turmeric powder, 1/2 tsp garam masala powder and salt to season. Add 400g paneer cubes and stir gently to mix.
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investigates
FOOD LABELS Before you rush to pick up a packaged product from the supermarket, take a moment to read its label carefully. BBC Good Food tells you why your health hinges on it
Words SUMANA MUKHERJEE Illustration SVABHU KOHLI
T
wo bindi-like dots, green and brown, encased in a square of the same colour, sum up India’s greatest ever success in food labelling. Introduced in 2001 and made compulsory in 2006, they are the only markers in the world to distinguish between off-the-shelf vegetarian and non-vegetarian food. No other country mandates such a symbol on packaged food. As uniquely, they are arguably also the most readily recognised logo in the Indian food market. The last is significant because surveys have shown that only about a fifth of the people who buy packaged food in India actually read the most relevant parts of the printed matter on the label. The red and green dots, positioned prominently next to the brand name and usually on the top right-hand corner of all food packages, however, are instantly identifiable. This triumph sums up, in one go, the importance of food labels, as well as the huge lacunae that still exist in this sphere. But first, the good news. After surviving decades of very confusing laws on food labelling, the country received its first integrated set of enforceable guidelines – the Food Safety and Standards (Packaging and Labelling) Regulations, under the Food Safety and Standards Act (FSSA), 2006 – last year. To get an idea of how dense the jungle of red-tape must have 66 BBC GoodFood
been prior to this, consider the fact that the introduction of the Act repealed seven or more Acts and orders, including the age-old Prevention of Food Adulteration Act, 1954. As legislations go, the FSSA regulations are something of a work of watertight art. In a clear and precise manner, the law lists every single detail that needs to be covered by any package of food, from dates (best before, manufacture, packaging), ingredients, nutritional information and presence of food additives to manufacturer’s details, quantity, batch or lot numbers, besides, of course, the veg/non-veg declaration. The regulations cover every base and are acknowledged to be at par with those of the developed world. (Visit fssai.gov.in for more information and some fascinating reading.) But a law is only as good as its implementation. And here too, the bulk of manufacturers play by the rules. The last published market survey conducted by the National Institute of Nutrition (NIN), Hyderabad, and reported at a workshop organised with the World Health Organisation in 2009 found “100 per cent... compliance with displaying the basic regulatory requirements like displaying the name of the food, net weight, languages used etc”. So where’s the problem, one might ask.
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T THE FINE PRINT Of the 815 pre-packaged foods (including 109 imported items) surveyed by NIN, 77 per cent abided by the regulations on instructions for use, storage conditions, use-by date and nutrition facts/100g. However, only 29 per cent toed the line on the health front, while just 10 per cent complied with the regulations on nutrition information. This last loophole – especially relevant in the case of functional foods, for instance – is precisely what the new FSSA regulations seek to plug. Even if you assume that compliance to the law may have increased in the three years since the NIN survey, it’s hard to overlook the fact that when it comes to packaged food, Indian consumers are mostly coasting by on trust. Manufacturers obey government regulations and pack the pack with small print. To uninformed eyes, the words and figures seem kosher, and few shoppers spend time perusing it properly. The harried homemaker squeezing in a trip to the supermarket after the school run or the office-goer swinging by to pick up groceries after work would rather pick up their favourite brands, pay and return to their lives. A survey carried out by the Indian Institute of Management, Lucknow, in 2007 validates this observation. Asked to rate 12 attributes of packaged goods in a scale ranging NOVEMBER 2012
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NOVEMBER 2012
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need to know food issues
BBC GoodFood 67
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between ‘not essential’ to ‘extremely essential’, consumers rated price, dates (manufacturing, best before and expiry, in that order) and the name and address of the product manufacturer as the most important. The nutritional aspects of the product came way down the scale. So is the Indian consumer missing something here? Certainly, because while manufacturers may be upholding the letter of the law by carrying all the relevant information, the intent of the law will be realised only when the consumer interprets that information to his or her benefit. Consumer education is a huge grey area in India, darkened by illiteracy of multiple kinds.
n The number of calories per serving n The source of those calories: if it’s fat, is it saturated fat or unsaturated? If it’s carbohydrates, does any of it belong to sugar? n The amount of sodium per serving n Are nutritional content claims, if any, reflected in the nutrition label? All of which sounds simple, but pre-factors both education and interest on the part of the consumer – neither of which can be considered as a given in India. A manufacturer can help the process with a truthful food label, says Jabir Ali, associate professor, Centre for Food and Agribusiness Management, IIM-L. “Every food product comprises a bundle of
LINES In a way it seems irreconcilable that the Indian shopper, so famous for bargaining in bazaars and checking fresh produce for the minutest of flaws, should be so lax on the nutritional aspects when he or she shops for packaged food. But perhaps it would be wrong to limit the blame to the Indian. In the US, the world’s largest consumer society, a University of Minnesota survey found that of the 31 per cent who self-reported reading the calorie count on packaged food, only nine per cent actually did so. So what should one watch out for? Dr V Sudershan Rao, assistant director of NIN, lists the following:
DECONSTRUCTING THE FOOD LABEL
A. Nutritional Information n Energy value in kcal, or the calorie count. n Amounts of protein, carbohydrate and fat. All of the above are mandatory for most packaged foods. Values have to be denoted either on basis of 100g/ml or per serving. n Additionally, if the product makes a 68 BBC GoodFood
nutritional claim (“8 essential vitamins” or “0% cholesterol”), it needs to be backed up by a list of the vitamins or cholesterol content, for instance. Other inclusions could be a break-up of total fat (saturated fatty acids, monounsaturated fatty acids, polyunsaturated fatty acids, trans fatty acids), minerals, sodium, potassium etc, all expressed in metric units and also per serving. Each of these nutrients — particularly cholesterol and sodium — can significantly impact existing health
conditions. Some brands prefer to list these nonmandatory criteria in line with international regulations and also provide a percentage daily value chart, evaluating consumption against a 2,000-calorie daily diet.
B. Ingredients Always listed in descending order of their composition by weight or volume, i.e. the primary ingredient is mentioned first. The list is usually rounded off with food additives — acidity regulators, emulsifiers, preservatives, colours,
flavours etc added to enhance the taste or appearance of packaged food — as approved by the Codex Alimantarius, a UN-WHO consumer-safety body. The additives may be listed as a series of International Numbering System (INS) numbers (eg INS 330, acidulant, is shorthand for citric acid; INS 300, antioxidant, represents ascorbic acid) or simply as digits. Foods imported from Europe (or meant for export to Europe) may list them as a series of E (for Europe)numbers. There may also be declarations such as ‘Contains permitted natural colours and added flavours.’
C. Veg/non-veg Laws stipulate the size and location of the dot-within-a-square logo. Green indicates a vegetarian food, brown indicates non-vegetarian.
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D. Logistical details n The name and complete address of the manufacturer as well as the packaging/bottling firm, if they are separate companies. The name and complete address of the Indian importer, for imported foods. n Net quantity by weight or volume or number, plus the drained weight in case of a food packed in liquid. n Lot/code/batch ID Date, month and year of manufacture for products with a shelf life of less than three months/ month and year for food products with longer shelf lives. n Best before date (in specified months and year/months from packaging/months from manufacture/or number of days). n Country of origin for imported food. n Instructions for use and storage. NOVEMBER 2012
Photograph 123rf/ STEPHEN VANHORN
Food packaging, whether it’s a 475g carton of cornflakes or a tetra pack of coconut milk, is packed with information, some of it in bold (brand name, product name, a visual image) and some in fine print, but always in either English or Hindi and optionally in other languages. (Some categories, such as raw agricultural commodities and single-ingredient products like pickles, though, are exempt from labelling.)
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attributes i.e. search (colour, size, shape), experience (taste, flavour) and credence (nutrition, pesticide residue and calories), which serve as critical indicators for analysing food quality and safety,” he says. “Consumers have better decision control on buying a product based on the information of search and experience attributes (or on the basis of colour and flavour, in other words). However, the credence or nutritional characteristics cannot be inferred before – and, sometimes, even after – consumption, which necessitates mandatory disclosure of nutritional information.”
T WRITING ON THE WALL In the current scheme of things, however, it is difficult to see a manufacturer declaring pesticide residue in his packet of potato chips or tomato purée, right next to the ‘non-fried snack’ or ‘no added preservatives’ labels. So the onus continues to be on the consumer. Dr Rao is upfront about the issue: “It is not the regulations or implementation of food labelling that is the concern. The point is, how many consumers are reading the label, what they are looking for, are they able to understand the nutritional label properly?” What Dr Rao doesn’t mention is this: There is no system that ensures that content matches claim in packaged food products. This is something beyond the ken of even the most aware consumer. Only lab tests can confirm the veracity of a company’s statement that a serving of its roasted snack contains 115 calories, or that its sugar content is zero. Or consider a food product that hardsells its ‘health’ value by way of, say, whole grains – but may contain more hidden sugars than whole grains. While some amount of consumer responsibility is unavoidable, Dr Ali says institutional arrangements need to be strengthened for implementation of the labelling laws. “There is a need for proper auditing of information 70 BBC GoodFood
on food labels and claims made by food processors. The audit results should be disclosed to the public. For example, in the USA, the Food and Drug Administration regularly publishes reports on food import refusals due to labelling violations. The maximum import rejections come down to non-compliance with the nutritional information required on the food label,” he says. “The creation of a special logo denoting nutritional safety in food products – something like the ISI mark for industrial goods – would help the consumer understand quality standards instantly.” Consumer activists join in the demand for greater transparency in food labelling, seeking greater industry responsibility, third party audits of food products and easier to comprehend food labels. “What I find unfathomable is that MNCs may follow good labelling practices abroad in their home countries but will not bring them to India,” says Bejon Misra, former member of the FSSAI and managing director of Consumer Online Foundation. “In developed countries, the industry self-regulates itself. In India, everyone follows the letter of the law but stops short of doing anything more. ” And yet, as the case of the two dots shows, an out-of-the-box initiative gathers its own momentum even in a country as vast, diverse and unregulated as India. Acknowledging the need to empower the consumer to choose packaged food for his health needs, Misra illustrates his case with the traffic-light colour coding adopted by some businesses in the UK. “A single glance is all it takes to learn if a product has high, medium or low amounts of fat, saturated fats, sugars and salt,” he says. “Red means high, amber means medium and green means low. So the more green the better.” Now if only India could find the political will to green light just such a system, it would remove so many roadblocks in the weekly supermarket run.
If all the fine print on a food package seems overwhelming, just zero in on these: Calorie count: Kcal values are considered an equivalent of the calorie count. Depending on body weight, an adult needs between 2,000 and 2,700 calories per day; consuming too many calories is associated with obesity. For someone on a 2,000-calorie daily diet, 40 calories and less is low, 100 calories is moderate, 400 calories is high. Keep in mind though that the kcal count is for 100g and/or per serving. So if one person finishes a 150g packet of snacks in a sitting, he or she would have consumed 5.35 times the recommended serving size (28g) and 5.35 times the energy value (115 kilo calories), or just over 600 calories. Calorie source: Proteins, carbohydrates and fats are the three primary micronutrients for the human body. While dietary fibre carbs are a positive, carbs from sugars and saturated and trans fats are equal to red flags. Added sugars (found in soft drinks, ice-cream, biscuits etc), especially, have zero nutrients and lots of calories. Both saturated fats and trans fats raise LDL (or bad cholesterol) and are associated with heart disease. On packaged food, sugar carbs, saturated fat and trans fat counts should be zero or minimal. Sodium content: Upto 75 per cent of our consumption of salt (sodium) comes through packaged foods. High salt intake is related to high blood pressure, which in turn, is associated with heart disease, kidney damage etc. Daily sodium intake should not be more than 2,300 mg for a healthy young individual, so, as with calories, study the values stated on the packet and make a calculation on the basis of your intake. Ingredients: As a general rule, a) go for foods that list natural-sounding ingredients rather than chemical names; b) steer clear of foods that mention sugars (including fruit juice concentrate, sucrose, glucose, fructose, honey, corn syrup etc), fats or oils and salt first.
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need to know food issues
NOVEMBER 2012
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need to know books
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books & cooks Our round up of this month’s top foodie reads Words MEHER MIRZA
Recipe courtesy NIGELLA LAWSON, photograph courtesy PETRINA TINSLAY from Nigellissima
The Chakh Le India Cookbook – Aditya Bal Aditya Bal doesn’t do poncey food. His first cookbook, based on his popular television show of the same name, has plenty of wholesome recipes, amassed from his time haring around India. We tried the Moru sambhar, a coconut and curd-based curry of okra and aubergine from South India; it was excellent, albeit slightly complicated. We also tried Chana madra, a creamy Himachali dish — it tasted delicately sweet, sour and spicy. We’ve never had chickpeas quite like this before. Available from Westland for ` 395
Green pasta with blue cheese Serves 2 n 20 minutes n EASY
trottole verde or any curled pasta 250g, salt for pasta water to taste, gorgonzola picante or any blue cheese 125g, crumbled or chopped, salad spinach leaves 100g, pepper to taste freshly ground, pistachios 3 tbsp, chopped n Heat water in a pan for the pasta, salting when it comes to the boil, then add the pasta and cook according to packet instructions, but checking
72 BBC GoodFood
Japanese farm food – Nancy Hachisu There are too many recipe books that are perplexing for home cooks. Happily, this isn’t one of them. Part memoir and part cookbook, Japanese Farm Food has scads of accessible recipes such as Eggplant with ginger and miso and Eggs pickled in soy sauce. Plus, it boasts of an index of Japanese produce and essential kitchen gear. The images and the layouts alone are so exquisite that we were compelled to go back to the book, again and again. Available from Andrews MsMeel Publishing for ` 2,013 3 minutes before it’s meant to be done. This needs to be really al dente because it will keep on cooking as you make the sauce. n Before draining the pasta, remove a cupful of pasta-cooking liquid, then tip the drained pasta back in the hot pan with 2 tbsp of the liquid, the cheese and
Nigellissima – Nigella Lawson Since we’ve been Lawson fans for a while, we subjected her recipes to the acid test — a trio of grumpy fathers. We cooked our way through the Green beans with pistachio pesto, Tuscan fries, Prawn pasta rosa, Italian tempura prawns and the Chocolate salame. The beans came out tops, followed by the pasta Rosa and crunchy fries. The tempura was light and golden but needed some more cooking time . The chocolate salame? An intriguing idea but a bit messy to make. Available from Random House for ` 1,199 spinach, and give a good grinding of coarse black pepper. Put the lid on the pan — off the heat though back on the stove — and leave to stand for 2 minutes. n Remove the lid, turn the heat back on low and stir the pasta, cheese and spinach together, along with as much cooking liquid as you need — about 100ml total — until the cheese is melted into a light sauce and the spinach wilted. n Take off the heat, toss with about two-thirds of the chopped pistachios and divide between 2 warmed bowls, sprinkling each bowl with the remaining nuts. Serve immediately.
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Weelicious: 140 Fast, Fresh & Easy recipes – Catherine McCord Harassed mothers everywhere can breathe a sigh of relief — Catherine McCord’s new book is a reassuring paean to the fact that every child, no matter how picky, can enjoy a healthy, wholesome diet. The book has something for everyone, from tots to teens (and adults!). For instance, her Roast pear and banana purée is great baby food, but tastes equally delish when smeared on a muffin. And who can say no to crunchy Chocolate rice crisp-wee treats? Available from William Morrow & Company for ` 1,581 Ludobites: Recipes and Stories from the Pop-Up Restaurants of Ludo Lefebvre – Ludo Lefebvre Iconoclastic chef Ludo Lefebvre has dazzled the USA with his Los Angeles-based ‘pop-up’ restaurant LudoBites. Now you can read all about it in his book that chronicles the cult restaurant’s journey right from the start. Along the way, you’ll find recipes (obviously) and a rather interesting chronicling of the restaurant through several food bloggers’ photographs. Available from Ecco Press for ` 1,437. You can buy this month’s books online at flipkart.com and landmarkonthenet.com.
NOVEMBER 2012
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eat in
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40 pages of recipes, from elegant Mediterranean dishes to creative uses for Diwali leftovers
IN THIS ISSUE
T Seven meals for ` 700, p 78 T Ready in 30-minute dishes, p 88 T Modern veggie picnic, p 96 T Sabyasachi Gorai's Mediterranean menu, p 104 T A fresh spin on Diwali leftovers, p 114
Baked corn and cheese-stuffed Bhavnagari chillies, p 106
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meals for `700 A week’s worth of stylish yet easy meals
Photograph DAVID MUNNS
Serves 2 n 1 hour 45 minutes n EASY
INGREDIENTS CHECKLIST SHOPPING BASKET lamb 200g dried mint 1 tsp parsley a bunch mixed bell peppers 5 tomato purée 125ml vegetable stock 200ml coriander a bunch paneer 200g pork 350g chicken stock 200ml sweet potatoes 250g orrechiette pasta 150g rocket leaves 50g spring onions 6 stalks salmon 2 fillets edamame beans 100g carrots 3 rosemary a bunch baby potatoes 200g Gouda cheese 80g tuna 225g chives a bunch Cheddar cheese 50g
STORE CUPBOARD basmati rice onions garlic cloves
78 BBC GoodFood
potatoes tomatoes cinnamon olive oil groundnut oil ginger cumin green chillies flour red chillies allspice raisins almonds sherry vinegar soy sauce caster sugar mirin sesame oil peas mayonnaise pita bread
`69
.5 TOTAL8 F O 7 MEALSR
basmati rice 50g lamb 200g, minced onion 1, chopped garlic clove 1, finely sliced cinnamon 1/2 tsp + 1 pinch, ground dried mint 1/2 tsp + 1 pinch parsley a small bunch, chopped bell peppers 2, mixed tomato purée 125ml vegetable stock 100ml olive oil 1 1/2 tbsp n Cook the rice in plenty of boiling salted water until just cooked. Drain well. n Heat a non-stick pan. Add 1 tbsp of oil and cook the mince until browned all over. n Add the onion and garlic and cook until completely softened, stirring now and again. Add the cinnamon and mint and cook for a minute. Stir in the rice and parsley and mix really well. Season well. n Heat the oven to 200°C. Cut the tops off the peppers, remove the seeds and stuff with the lamb mix. Sit the peppers in a snug casserole with a lid. Mix the purée and stock with 2 tbsp olive oil. Season and add another pinch of cinnamon and mint. Spoon over and around the peppers. n Put the tops back on then put on a lid and bake in the oven for 1-1 1/4 hours. You want the peppers to be really tender and just holding their shape. Serve with salad and the
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sauce from the pan spooned over. n PER SERVING 436 kcals, protein 26g, carbs 36.1g, fat 20g, sat fat 7.2g, fibre 5.9g, salt 0.3g
TUESDAY Spiced paneer skewers with green chilli sauce Serves 2 n 40 minutes n EASY groundnut oil 1 tbsp ginger a small chunk, finely grated ground cumin 1 tsp ground coriander 1/2 tsp paneer 200g, cut into cubes green bell pepper 1, cut into chunks rotis 4, to serve THE GREEN CHILLI SAUCE groundnut oil 1 tbsp garlic clove 1, crushed ginger a small chunk, finely grated green chillies 2, sliced plum tomatoes 400g coriander a small bunch, chopped n To make the sauce, heat oil in a pan and add the garlic, ginger and chillies. Cook for 2 minutes then tip in the tomatoes. Simmer for 10-15 minutes, then stir in the coriander. n Mix the oil, ginger and spices in a bowl. Add the paneer and bell peppers, toss, then leave for 10 minutes. To serve, heat the grill to high. Skewer the paneer and pepper then grill for 7-8 minutes turning until the paneer is golden. Serve with the sauce and some warm roti. n PER SERVING 486 kcals, protein 29.2g, carbs 9.2g, fat 37.5g, sat fat 21.2g, fibre 3.2g, salt 0.2g NOVEMBER 2012
Recipe JANINE RATCLIFFE Photograph MAJA SMEND Styling CYNTHIA INIONS Food styling SAL HENLEY
MONDAY Baked peppers stuffed with spiced lamb
Recipe JANINE RATCLIFFE Photograph DAN JONES Styling POLLY WEBB-WILSON Food styling KATE CALDER
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Recipe JANINE RATCLIFFE Photograph DAN JONES Styling POLLY WEBB-WILSON Food styling KATE CALDER
eat in everyday
VEG IT with tofu
THURSDAY White onion, potato and rosemary pizza Serves 2 n 40 minutes n EASY
WEDNESDAY Soy-glazed salmon with pea, carrot and edamame salad Serves 2 n 30 minutes n EASY soy sauce 2 tbsp (try Kikkoman available at gourmet stores) caster sugar 2 tsp (try Tate & Lyle available at gourmet stores) salmon 2 skinless fillets THE SALAD peas 100g, blanched and drained edamame beans 100g, blanched and drained carrots 3, peeled and julienned 80 BBC GoodFood
onion 1 large, halved and sliced garlic clove 1, crushed olive oil 1 tbsp rosemary 2 sprigs, leaves stripped baby potatoes 200g, thinly sliced Gouda cheese 80g, sliced (try Amul available at gourmet stores) pizza base or pita bread 2 mirin 1 tbsp (try Blue Dragon available at gourmet stores) sesame oil 2 tsp soy sauce 1 tbsp ginger a small chunk, julienned n Mix the soy and sugar and toss with the salmon. Leave for 5 minutes turning now and again. n Toss all the salad ingredients together. Grill the salmon for about 5-7 minutes until just cooked through. Serve with the salad. n PER SERVING 494 kcals, protein 40.3g, carbs 27.6g, fat 23g, sat fat 4g, fibre 8.1g, salt 4.4g
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n Cook the onion and garlic in the olive oil until softened. Stir in the rosemary. Cook the potatoes in boiling salted water until just tender and drain well. Mix with the onions. n Heat the oven to 220°C. Take the pita bread or pizza base and top with potatoes, onions and slices of cheese. If the base is too thick, you could slice it in half. Drizzle with a little more olive oil. Place on an oiled baking tray and bake for 15 minutes until puffed and golden. n PER SERVING 650 kcals, protein 25g, carbs 78.8g, fat 25.8g, sat fat 10.7g, fibre 5.8g, salt 3g NOVEMBER 2012
Recipe JANINE RATCLIFFE Photograph DAN JONES Styling POLLY WEBB-WILSON Food styling KATE CALDER
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SATURDAY Pasta with peppers, raisins and almonds
FRIDAY Jamaican-style pork and spinach stew Serves 2 n 2 1/2 hours n EASY pork 350g, diced plain flour 1/2 tbsp, seasoned oil 1 tbsp onion 1, halved and sliced garlic clove 1, crushed ginger a small chunk, sliced red chillies 1-2, deseeded and chopped cinnamon 1/2 stick allspice powder 1/2 tsp (try Khana Pakana available at gourmet stores) tomatoes 200g, chopped chicken stock 200ml sweet potatoes 250g, peeled and cut into chunks spinach 75g, shredded 82 BBC GoodFood
n Toss the pork with the flour then heat a non-stick frying pan with oil and brown all over. n In another pan, add the onions, garlic, ginger and chillies, and cook until softened. Transfer to the pork pan then add the allspice, cinnamon, tomatoes and stock. n Bring to a simmer then cook with a lid on for 1 1/2 hours. Add the potatoes and spinach and simmer for another 30 minutes. Serve in bowls with crusty bread. n PER SERVING 430 kcals, protein 45.3g, carbs 37.4g, fat 11.1g, sat fat 3g, fibre 8.6g, salt 0.7g
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orecchiette or any small pasta 150g bell peppers 100g, oven-roasted and torn into pieces raisins 2 tbsp REALLY REALLY almonds 2 tbsp, flaked EASY rocket leaves 50g THE DRESSING sherry vinegar 2 tbsp (try Capirete available at gourmet stores) olive oil 2 tbsp spring onions 2, finely chopped n Whisk the dressing ingredients together. Cook the pasta in salted boiling water until tender. Drain and toss with the dressing, raisins and peppers. Leave for 5 minutes, then add the almonds and rocket and toss again. n PER SERVING 526 kcals, protein 15.4g, carbs 68.5g, fat 20.8g, sat fat 2.4g, fibre 1.8g, salt 0.1g NOVEMBER 2012
Recipe JANINE RATCLIFFE Photograph DAN JONES Styling POLLY WEBB-WILSON Food styling KATE CALDER
Serves 2 n 30 minutes n EASY
Recipe JANINE RATCLIFFE Photograph DAN JONES Styling POLLY WEBB-WILSON Food styling KATE CALDER
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NOVEMBER 2012
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eat in everyday
BBC GoodFood 83
eat in everyday
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SUNDAY Tuna melt jackets Serves 2 n 30 minutes n EASY potatoes 2, halved tuna in spring water 225g tin, drained (try John West available at gourmet stores) spring onions 4, chopped chives a small bunch mayonnaise 2 tbsp Cheddar cheese 50g, grated n Heat the oven to 200°C. Prick the potatoes all over with a fork then microwave for 8-10 minutes or until tender. n Mix the tuna, onions, chives, mayonnaise and half the cheese. Halve the potatoes then scoop some out into the tuna bowl, leaving a 1cm shell. Roughly mix the potato and tuna together, season well, then pile back into the shells. Sprinkle over the rest of the cheese and put in the oven until bubbling and golden. Serve with a green salad. n PER SERVING 567 kcals, protein 31.2g, carbs 57.6g, fat 21.1g, sat fat 7.4g, fibre 5.4g, salt 1.3g
Recipe JANINE RATCLIFFE Photograph DAN JONES Styling POLLY WEBB-WILSON Food styling KATE CALDER
FOR A LIST OF STORES THAT STOCK GOURMET INGREDIENTS, TURN TO P 209
VEG IT with jalapenos and olives
84 BBC GoodFood
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NOVEMBER 2012
Advertorial
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STRAWBERRY CRUMBLE Serves 5 1 hour EASY V butter 1/2 cup, chilled and cut into cubes + for greasing lemon juice 2 tbsp arrowroot flour 1 1/2 tbsp fresh strawberries 1kg, halved brown sugar 1/2 cup flour 2/3 cup oats 2/3 cup bread crumbs 1/3 cup almonds 1/2 cup, sliced honey 1/4 cup cinnamon 1 tsp, ground sea salt 1/4 tsp
n Preheat the oven to 180°C. Butter a
Borosil glass baking dish and keep aside. n In a medium-sized glass bowl, mix
the lemon juice and arrowroot until smooth. Add the strawberries, brown sugar and toss until all the strawberries are coated. Tip the fruits into the buttered dish. n To make the crumble topping,
pulse the flour, oats, bread crumbs, almonds, honey, cinnamon, and sea salt in a food processor. Add the chilled butter and pulse until it resembles a crumble mix. Sprinkle the mix over the strawberry and bake for 45 minutes or until the top is light golden in colour. Cool the crumble for 5 minutes and serve with vanilla ice cream or whipped cream.
Borosilkitchen Send your favourite continental recipe and you could win a
Gift Hamper courtesy
Borosil's range of Microwavables product are made of special borosilicate glass, which help ensure fresher, healthier cooking. Cooking in glass requires less oil, less salt and retains more essential nutrients. Borosil Microwavables can withstand temperatures upto 300°C, and unlike plastic, do not leech chemicals into food when heated. Our products stay odorless and stain free. The entire Microwavables range is fridge and freezer safe, making it easy to cook and store food. Borosil. Because nothing less will do.
Send in your recipe, age and address to BBC Good Food, Worldwide Media, Response 2nd floor, Times of India Building, Dr D N Road, WorldMags.net Fort, Mumbai - 400001, you can also mail your entries to
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eat in lunchbox
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Fresh from your fridge These salads and dips are great for lunchboxes. Plus they cost less and taste loads better than anything you can buy Recipes JANE HORNBY
Serves 4 n 20 minutes n EASY orzo or any small pasta 350g (try Barilla available at gourmet stores) basil 20g extra virgin olive oil 4 tbsp Parmesan cheese 25g, finely grated + more to serve (optional) garlic clove 1, very roughly chopped pine nuts 50g, toasted fresh mozzarella 290g semi-dried tomatoes 100g, very roughly chopped wild rocket 50g n Boil the orzo for 8 minutes until tender, then drain and cool under cold water. Drain again, then tip into a large bowl. Meanwhile, tear the basil, stalks and all, into a food processor. Add the oil, Parmesan, garlic and half the pine nuts, then whizz to a thick pesto-like dressing. n Stir the dressing through the orzo, then season. The dressing will seem quite thick, but keep stirring and it will eventually coat all the grains. Add the mozzarella, tomatoes and a handful of the rocket. Scatter with the remaining pine nuts and a little more Parmesan, if you like. Top with more rocket, then serve straight away. n PER SERVING 742 kcals, protein 29g, carbs 71g, fat 40g, sat fat 13g, fibre 4g, sugar 5g, salt 1.25g
Smoky chipotle pepper salsa Serves 6 n 25 minutes n EASY red peppers 2, halved lengthways tomatoes 6 ripe, halved REALLY garlic clove 1, crushed REALLY
EASY
86 BBC GoodFood
lime juice 2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil 1 tbsp chipotle paste 2 tsp (try Discovery Foods available at gourmet stores) red onion 1, finely chopped coriander 20g, roughly chopped n Heat grill to high. Put peppers onto a baking sheet, skin-side up, grill until the skins are black, then put into a bowl and cover. Leave until cool, then peel skins away. n Scoop out and discard tomato seeds. Put tomatoes into a food processor with garlic, lime juice, oil and chipotle paste. Add peppers, then pulse until chunky. Stir onion and coriander through, then serve. n PER SERVING 55 kcals, protein 2g, carbs 8g, fat 2g, sat fat none, fibre 2g, sugar 7g, salt 0.06g
Roasted vegetables and couscous salad Serves 4 n 50 minutes n EASY red and yellow pepper 1 each, halved and deseeded pumpkin 1/2 zucchini 2, thickly sliced garlic cloves 4, leave skin on extra virgin olive oil 3 tbsp red onion 1, thickly sliced cumin seeds 1 tsp harissa paste 1 tbsp (try Al Fez available at gourmet stores) almonds 50g, blanched couscous 250g (try Roland available at gourmet stores) hot vegetable stock 300ml
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zest and juice 1 lemon mint 20g, roughly chopped n Heat oven to 200°C. Cut peppers and pumpkin into bite-size pieces (leave skin on the pumpkin). Tip all the vegetables onto a baking tray, add garlic, 2 tbsp oil and seasoning, then mix and roast for 20 minutes. n Add onion, cumin, harissa and almonds. Roast for another 20 minutes, then cool. Put couscous into a large bowl, pour over the stock, cover, then set aside for 10 minutes. Fluff up with a fork. n In a bowl, mix zest, juice and remaining oil. Squeeze garlic pulp from skins into the bowl, mash well and fold in the mint. Pour over the vegetables, then toss with the couscous. n PER SERVING 399 kcals, protein 11g, carbs 58g, fat 18g, sat fat 2g, fibre 5g, sugar 14g, salt 0.86g NOVEMBER 2012
Photograph MYLES NEW Styling LISA HARRISON Food styling LIZZIE HARRIS
Orzo and mozzarella salad
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Ready in 30
Try these quick and stylish weekday meals Baked basa and herb parcels with lemon wild rice Serves 2 n 30 minutes n EASY
Pancetta, goat’s cheese and chicory salad with hazelnuts Serves 2 n 15 minutes n EASY golden caster sugar 50g (try Tate & Lyle available at gourmet stores) hazelnuts or pecans 30g REALLY (available at gourmet stores) REALLY QUICK pancetta 4 rashers seedless raspberry jam 2 tbsp balsamic vinegar 2 tbsp (try Ponti available at gourmet stores) chicory 2 heads (available at gourmet grocers) goat’s cheese 70g, crumbled crusty bread to serve 88 BBC GoodFood
n Heat the sugar gently in a pan until it melts and forms a golden caramel. Add the nuts and swirl the pan around to coat them. Pour out onto a sheet of baking parchment and leave to cool. n Grill or fry the pancetta until crisp, then drain on kitchen paper. Break into large pieces. Heat the jam in a small saucepan until it melts and then take off the heat and whisk in the balsamic vinegar. n Arrange the chicory leaves with the pancetta and the cheese on two plates, add the nuts and drizzle over the dressing. n PER SERVING 454 kcals, protein 13.9g, carbs 42.4g, fat 25.7g, sat fat 9.8g, fibre 1.9g, salt 1.3g
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n Heat the oven to 190°C. Add the lemon strips to the rice then cook following pack instructions in the vegetable stock. n While the rice is cooking, cut out 2 large squares of baking parchment and put a piece of fish on each one along with the sliced fennel. Drizzle over a little olive oil, season, then divide the sprigs of herbs between the two. Scrunch the edges of the paper up and then seal at the top to make parcels. Sit on a baking tray and bake for 12 minutes, or until cooked through. n Mix the finely chopped herbs with olive oil and the vinegar. Once the fish is cooked, remove the sprigs and serve with a drizzle of the herby dressing and the lemon rice. n PER SERVING 428 kcals, protein 34.1g, carbs 40.4g, fat 14.2g, sat fat 2.1g, fibre 2.3g, salt 2.3g NOVEMBER 2012
Recipe KATE CALDER Photograph MAJA SMEND Styling CYNTHIA INIONS Food styling KATE CALDER
preserved lemon 1/2, pulp removed and cut into strips (try Al Fez available at gourmet stores) basmati and wild rice 100g (try Real Thai available at gourmet stores) vegetable stock 450ml basa fillets 4 fennel 1 small bulb, finely sliced olive oil 2 tbsp tarragon 2 sprigs + a small handful, finely chopped parsley 2 sprigs + a small handful, finely chopped basil 2 sprigs + a small handful, finely chopped white wine vinegar a drizzle
Recipe KATE CALDER Photograph MAJA SMEND Styling CYNTHIA INIONS Food styling KATE CALDER
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Recipe KATE CALDER Photograph MAJA SMEND Styling BELLA MCNIE Food styling KATE CALDER
eat in everyday
Lamb steaks with spinach, raisins and pine nuts Serves 2 n 30 minutes n EASY
Meatballs in hot pepper sauce with orzo and rocket Serves 2 n 30 minutes n EASY lean pork mince 300g fennel seeds 1 tsp lemon 1, zested and juiced olive oil 3 tbsp onion 1 small, chopped garlic clove 1, crushed tomatoes 400g, chopped golden caster sugar a pinch (try Tate & Lyle available at gourmet stores) Peppadew peppers a handful, some torn in half (try Peppadew Peppers available at gourmet stores) orzo or any small pasta 100g rocket leaves 2 handfuls
90 BBC GoodFood
n Mix the mince with the fennel and lemon zest and season. Form into 18 walnut-size balls. Heat 2 tbsp oil in a pan and brown the meatballs. Remove from the pan and add the onion and cook until softened, then add the garlic and cook for 1 minute. n Add the chopped tomatoes and a pinch of caster sugar and bring to a simmer. Add the meatballs back to the pan as well as the peppers and cook for 15 minutes. Cook the pasta following pack instructions. n Drain and then mix with the lemon juice, 1 tbsp of olive oil, the rocket and seasoning. Serve the meatballs and pepper sauce with the orzo. n PER SERVING 532kcals, protein 37.9g, carbs 48g, fat 21.2g, sat fat 6.3g, fibre 4.1g, salt 0.5g
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olive oil 3 tbsp sherry vinegar 2 tbsp (try Capirete available at gourmet stores) shallot 1 small, thinly sliced spinach and pok choy 150g, shredded pine nuts 20g raisins 30g lamb steaks 380g n To make a shallot dressing, whisk 1 tbsp of the oil with 1 tbsp of the vinegar, add the shallots and season. n Blanch the greens in boiling water for 3 minutes and then drain and refresh under cold water. Heat 2 tbsp of oil in a wide pan and lightly toast the pine nuts. Add the raisins, the greens, the remaining vinegar, season and toss. Take off the heat and keep warm. n Rub the steaks with another tsp of oil and season well. Fry or grill for 10 minutes on each side or until cooked to your liking. Serve with the greens and the shallot dressing. n PER SERVING 677 kcals, protein 60g, carbs 11.4g, fat 43.2g, sat fat 10g, fibre 3g, salt 0.4g NOVEMBER 2012
Recipe KATE CALDER Photograph MAJA SMEND Styling CYNTHIA INIONS Food styling KATE CALDER
eat in everyday
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VEG IT with grilled vegetables or paneer
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Lemon and thyme chicken with roast potatoes and olives Serves 2 n 30 minutes n EASY
Orecchiette with broccoli and wine sauce Serves 2 n 25 minutes n EASY orecchiette or any small pasta 150g (try De Cecco available at gourmet stores) broccoli spears 200g, halved lengthways if large REALLY REALLY olive oil 2 tbsp EASY red chilli 1, shredded garlic cloves 2, thinly sliced white wine 175ml Parmesan cheese 50g, 1/2 finely grated, 1/2 shaved
92 BBC GoodFood
n Cook the pasta following pack instructions, adding the broccoli for the last 3 minutes of cooking. While the pasta is cooking, heat a little oil in a pan and gently fry the chilli and garlic until lightly coloured and softened. Add the wine to the pan and simmer for 1 minute. n Drain the pasta and broccoli. Tip into the pan with grated Parmesan and some seasoning, then toss everything together. Serve with extra Parmesan shavings. n PER SERVING 467 kcals, protein 21.8g, carbs 57.1g, fat 12.2g, sat fat 5.5g, fibre 3.8g, salt 0.5g
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n Put a shallow, non-stick baking tray with 2 tbsp olive oil in a 220°C oven to heat. Cook the potatoes in boiling water until just tender, about 5 minutes, then drain. Toss the potatoes in the hot oil, add the olives and the onion to the tray and season. Bake in the oven on the top shelf for 20 minutes until crisp and golden. n Meanwhile, heat a griddle (chargrill) pan or heavy frying pan. Mix the thyme with 1 tbsp olive oil. Brush the chicken with the flavoured oil and season well. Put on the griddle and squeeze over the lemon quarters, then leave the lemons, cut-side down, on the griddle. n Cook the chicken for approximately 5 minutes each side until grill-marked and cooked through. Serve the chicken with a squeeze of lemon juice, the potatoes and a dollop of mayonnaise. n PER SERVING 819 kcals, protein 44.3g, carbs 27.9g, fat 58.8g, sat fat 9.1g, fibre 2.8g, salt 1.6g NOVEMBER 2012
Recipe KATE CALDER Photograph MAJA SMEND Styling CYNTHIA INIONS Food styling KATE CALDER
potatoes 2 large, peeled and diced into 2cm cubes kalamata olives 14 (try Fragata available at gourmet stores) onion 1/2, thinly sliced thyme 4 sprigs, 2 with leaves stripped olive oil 3 tbsp chicken breasts 2, sliced in half horizontally (not all the way through) and opened out like a book lemon 1, cut into quarters mayonnaise 3 tbsp, with either a squeeze of lemon juice or 1/2 garlic clove, crushed
Recipe KATE CALDER Photograph MAJA SMEND Styling CYNTHIA INIONS Food styling KATE CALDER
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Pack up a veggie
PICNIC Balmy November calls for a picnic. Make it memorable with this moveable veggie feast bursting with fresh and healthy flavours
Ginger lemon fizz Serves 2 n 15 minutes n EASY fresh root ginger 50g, roughly chopped caster sugar 300g (try Tate & Lyle available at gourmet stores) lemons 2 + extra to serve, sliced sparkling water 750ml
Layered hummus, tabbouleh and feta picnic bowl Serves 4 n 35 minutes + refrigerating n EASY hummus 400g (whizz boiled chickpeas, garlic, lime juice and olive oil) chickpeas 400g, boiled and drained feta 200g, cubed pitted black olives a handful (try Fragata available at gourmet stores) romaine lettuce 1 heart flatbreads to serve THE TABBOULEH bulghur wheat 85g (try Tipiak available at gourmet stores) 96 BBC GoodFood
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Recipe EMMA LEWIS Photograph GARETH MORGANS Styling PENNY MARKHAM Food styling EMMA LEWIS
n Place the ginger, sugar and lemon slices in a pan. Bring to the boil, then cook until the sugar dissolves. Take off the heat, leave to cool, then press through a sieve. You can store the syrup in the fridge for a week. To serve, pour into a pitcher and top up with sparkling water and extra lemon slices. n PER TBSP SYRUP 25 kcals, protein none, carbs 6g, fat none, sat fat none, fibre none, sugar 7g, salt none
eat in modern veggie
Recipe JAMES MARTIN
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n To serve, drizzle the olive oil over the leaves, then scoop the salad onto plates, making sure everyone gets a bit of each layer. Serve with the flatbreads. n PER SERVING 768 kcals, protein 24g, carbs 41g, fat 58g, sat fat 13g, fibre 9g, sugar 7g, salt 2.85g
Grilled vegetable sandwiches Makes 12 n 1 hour 10 minutes n MODERATELY EASY
Recipe JAMES MARTIN
red peppers 3, halved and deseeded yellow peppers 2, halved and deseeded olive oil 6 tbsp aubergine 1, sliced into long strips courgettes 2, sliced into long strips ciabatta or any thick, crusty bread loaf 800g red onion 1, sliced pesto 2 tbsp basil leaves a handful
salt to taste mint leaves 80g, finely chopped flat-leaf parsley 80g, finely chopped tomatoes 2 large, deseeded and chopped red onion 1, finely chopped lemon 1, juiced and zested olive oil 4 tbsp + extra for drizzling n To make the tabbouleh, tip the bulghur into a saucepan, cover with water, season with salt, then bring to the boil and simmer for 15 minutes until tender. Drain, rinse under cold running water, then drain again. Mix the mint 98 BBC GoodFood
and parsley with the tomatoes, onion and bulghur. Whisk the lemon zest, juice and oil together with seasoning, then toss with the bulghur. n Spoon the hummus into the bottom of a portable picnic bowl or large plastic mixing bowl. Scatter with the chickpeas, sprinkle with seasoning and drizzle with a little oil. Spoon the tabbouleh on top, then the feta and olives. Tear over the lettuce. n Cover the bowl with its lid or clingfilm. Put a little olive oil in a sealed container, then chill the salad for up to 24 hours.
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n Heat oven to 220°C. Place the peppers, cut-side down, on a baking tray. Drizzle with 2 tbsp olive oil, then roast for 20 minutes. Remove from the oven, place in a bowl, cover with cling-film and leave to cool. Once cold, remove the skins. Drizzle the aubergine and courgette with the rest of the olive oil, then cook in batches on a griddle pan until marked on both sides. Set aside. n Slice the loaf in half and hollow out the middle, leaving two empty shells. Build up the loaf by placing the vegetables in layers, scattering each layer with sliced onion, pesto and basil leaves. Replace the lid, wrap tightly in cling-film, then refrigerate. Cut into neat wedges to serve. n PER WEDGE 168 kcals, protein 5g, carbs 22g, fat 7g, sat fat 1g, fibre 2g, sugar 6g, salt 0.49g
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Cucumber and herb triple-deckers Serves 12 n 15 minutes n EASY
cucumber 1 small, thinly sliced cream cheese 200g mint a small bunch, finely chopped chives a small bunch, snipped multigrain bread 9 thin slices n Lay the cucumber slices on kitchen paper to dry. Whizz the cheese, mint and some seasoning in a small food processor or with a hand blender. Stir in most of the chives, then spread the cheese mixture over 6 slices of bread. Reserve 12 slices of cucumber, and arrange the rest over the cheese.
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n Layer up 2 slices of cucumbertopped bread, then top with a plain slice. Repeat this twice more. Use a good knife to trim the crusts off the triple deckers, then cut each into 4 squares. Top each mini sandwich with another cucumber slice. Sprinkle with the remaining chives to serve. n PER SQUARE 126 kcals, protein 3g, carbs 9g, fat 9g, sat fat 5g, fibre 2g, sugar 1g, salt 0.4g
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skin-side up, on the baking tray and brush with oil. Grill for 10-15 minutes, turning, until skins are well charred. Put the peppers in a plastic bag and seal for 5 minutes to loosen the skins. n Meanwhile, crush the garlic and a generous pinch of salt to a paste using a pestle and mortar. Add the vinegar and oil, and blend to make a dressing. Strip the skins and seeds from the peppers, then quarter. Put the flesh in a bowl or food container. Pour over the dressing and scatter with the pine nuts, capers and basil. n PER SERVING 209 kcals, protein 4g, carbs 14g, fat 15g, sat fat 2g, fibre 5g, sugar 13g, salt 0.2g
Minty bean and courgette dip with pita crisps Serves 4 n 35 minutes n EASY
Marinated feta in thyme and chilli oil Serves 6-8 n 10 minutes + marinating n EASY olive oil 100ml fresh thyme leaves 2 tbsp + extra for scattering garlic cloves 4, sliced dried chilli flakes 1/4 tsp semi-dried tomatoes in olive oil 140g, drained (try Sacla available at gourmet stores) artichoke hearts in oil 175g (try Ponti available at gourmet stores) feta 400g (try President available at gourmet stores) Kalamata olives 85g (try Fragata available at gourmet stores) n Tip the olive oil and thyme into a bowl and blitz with a hand blender. Stir in the garlic, chilli and lots of black pepper. You could add some of the oil from the tomatoes and artichokes too. n Cut each block of feta into 4 (or 6) and arrange in a dish or a container 100 BBC GoodFood
with the tomatoes, artichokes and olives. Spoon over the herby oil, scatter with extra thyme and leave it in the fridge overnight. n PER SERVING 366 kcals, protein 9g, carbs 3g, fat 35g, sat fat 10g, fibre 2g, sugar 1g, salt 3.2g
Roasted pepper salad with capers and pine nuts Serves 4-6 n 25 minutes n EASY bell peppers 3 red + 3 yellow ones extra virgin olive oil 3 tbsp + extra for grilling garlic clove 1, large salt a pinch white wine vinegar 1 tbsp (try Cirio available at gourmet stores) pine nuts 2 tbsp, toasted capers 1-2 tbsp (try Lindsay available at gourmet stores) basil leaves a handful, shredded n Turn on the grill and line a baking tray with foil. Arrange the peppers,
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olive oil 2 tbsp courgette 1, finely diced garlic cloves 2, chopped cannellini beans 400g, drained (try Epicure available at gourmet stores) lemon 1/2 , juiced Greek yoghurt 170g mint 2 tbsp, chopped THE PITA CRISPS pita breads 8 olive oil 2 tbsp flaky salt a pinch n To make the pita crisps, heat oven to 200°C. Brush both sides of the pita breads with oil, then tear into pieces. Spread on a large baking tray and sprinkle with the flaky salt. Bake for about 8 minutes until they start to toast. They will get crisper as they cool. n To make the dip, heat the oil in a pan. Fry the courgettes and garlic with seasoning until the courgettes are tender. Set aside a couple of tablespoons of the courgettes and tip the rest into a bowl with the beans, lemon juice, yogurt and mint. Whizz until smooth with a hand blender, then spoon into a bowl or food container and top with the remaining courgettes. n PER SERVING 352 kcals, protein 12g, carbs 45g, fat 13g, sat fat 3g, fibre 3g, sugar 7g, salt 1.6g NOVEMBER 2012
Recipe SARA BUENFELD Photograph MYLES NEW Styling STUART OVENDEN Food styling SARAH COOK and MARY CADOGAN
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Ricotta and basil pizza Serves 6 n 40 minutes n EASY
Recipe JAMES MARTIN
onion 1, finely chopped yellow peppers 2, roughly chopped olive oil 1 tsp tomatoes 800g, chopped pizza bases 6 cherry tomatoes 10, halved or whole ricotta 250g basil leaves a handful, to serve n Heat oven to 220°C. Soften the onion and peppers in the oil in a large frying pan for a few minutes. Pour in the tomatoes, season, then simmer for 10 minutes. n Once ready, spread the sauce over the pizza bases, add the cherry tomatoes, then dollop over spoonfuls of the ricotta. Bake for 10 minutes or more until the base is golden and crisp. Scatter with basil and serve as soon as possible with a green salad. n PER SERVING 291 kcals, protein 14g, carbs 41g, fat 9g, sat fat 4g, fibre 9g, sugar 9g, salt 1.23g
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A taste of the
Med
Get a whiff of the salty seas and azure skies in your home Recipes SABYASACHI GORAI Photographs ASHISH CHAWLA Props courtesy FABINDIA, THE SHOP, FCML HOME
MENU FOR 6 ✴ Baked corn and cheesestuffed Bhavnagari chillies
✴ Popcorn-crusted prawn and smoked paprika mayo
✴ Med-style lamb filo pouches ✴ Spinach tagliatelle with olive oil and picante peppers
✴ Catalan-inspired exotic mushroom stew
✴ Asafoetida-spiced grilled fish ✴ Mango crèma Catalana ✴ Spanish churros
“It was a great pleasure creating a menu for the Indian home kitchen. The real challenge was to adapt these dishes for home cooking while retaining the Mediterranean flavours.I have given a distinct Indianness to these dishes by adding herbs and spices we use most commonly in India.” — Chef Sabyasachi Gorai, Director of Kitchens, Olive Beach, Olive Bar & Kitchen, Ai and Lap, New Delhi
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Asafoetida-spiced grilled fish (recipe on p 110)
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Popcorn-crusted prawn and smoked paprika mayo Serves 6 ■ 20 minutes ■ EASY Fried prawn dishes are common to almost every cuisine but giving them a twist by adding popcorn as a crust, results in a crunchy, tasty dish. freshly popped corn 100g egg yolk 1 prawns 12, cleaned, deveined, shelled but with the tail left on oil to deep fry refined flour 100g cornflour 50g salt 20g black pepper 10g, crushed cold water 100ml THE SMOKED PAPRIKA MAYO lemon juice 20ml mayonnaise 150g smoked paprika 20g (try La Chinata available at gourmet stores)
■ To make the smoked paprika mayo, mix the lemon juice and mayonnaise in a glass bowl. Add paprika and stir it into the mix. Season to taste. Keep refrigerated. ■ Coarsely crush the popcorn and spread it in the tray. Crack the egg yolk in a medium, shallow bowl, whisk and set aside. ■ Heat oil in a deep frying pan. Mix the cornflour with half the refined flour. ■ Add the cold water to the egg and whisk thoroughly. Next, add the flour mix and make a thin batter with coating consistency. ■ Dust the prawns with salt and pepper, then toss them into the remaining refined flour and dip into the batter. Shake off the excess batter and coat with popcorn. ■ Fry the prawns, making sure they do not stick to each other. The oil should not be very hot as it can burn the prawns, leaving them raw from the inside. Serve immediately with the mayo. ■ PER SERVING 830.67 kcals, protein 15.58g, carbs 36.72g, fat 71.10g, sat fat 7.38g, fibre 2.03g, salt 1.5g 106 BBC GoodFood
Baked corn and cheesestuffed Bhavnagari chillies Serves 6 ■ 30 minutes ■ EASY
and ginger. Sauté for some time, add mango pulp and chilli flakes. Simmer for 5 minutes and add the balsamic. Mix well. Adjust the seasoning and remove from fire when the mixture thickens. ■ To make the stuffed chillies, boil the corn for 1 minute and chill it in ice water. Strain and keep it aside. Clean the chillies and slit each one from one side in a way that both the ends remain intact. Remove the seeds from inside and keep aside till needed. ■ In a pan, heat oil and sauté the onion and garlic. As the onion becomes translucent, add the thyme and stir. Add corn and sauté for 2 minutes. Adjust the seasoning. ■ Keep the mixture aside in a bowl and let it cool. Add grated cheese and mix. Stuff the chillies with this mixture. Season the stuffed chillies and drizzle oil on them. ■ Bake in a pre-heated oven at 200°C for 5-6 minutes, turning occasionally. Serve hot with the chutney. ■ PER SERVING 175.50 kcals, protein 3.87g, carbs 29g, fat 6.37g, sat fat 1.77g, fibre 3.03g, salt 0.2g
Chillies are abundant during the monsoon but are also great for boosting immunity in winter, since they are packed with vitamins and minerals. fresh corn kernels 150g Bhavnagari chillies 250g oil 10ml onion 50g, chopped garlic 20g, chopped thyme 10g mozzarella cheese 50g, grated salt to taste black pepper 10g, crushed THE MANGO AND BALSAMIC CHUTNEY butter 1 tsp cumin seeds 5g ginger 20g, chopped mango pulp 1 cup chilli flakes 2 balsamic vinegar 25ml ■ To make the chutney, heat the butter in a pan and add cumin seeds
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TASTE TEAM COMMENT This dish turned out to be quite a good-looking one. The chillies were crisp and paired well with the juicy corn. The mozzarella helped bind the stuffing together. I topped a few chillies with breadcrumbs before baking, which gave them an interesting texture. I also added some Cheddar cheese in the stuffing. The chutney had a balanced flavour, combining sweet, sour and spicy notes, with a hint of ginger and caramel. It complemented the chillies beautifully. A tip: allow the corn mixture to cool completely before adding the mozzarella or it becomes an unwieldy mess. Anandraj Pawar is an avid foodie who lives in Mumbai
NOVEMBER 2012
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water. As soon as the pasta gets cold, strain and remove any excess water. ■ In a pan, heat olive oil and toss garlic and thyme. Before the garlic changes its colour, add the vegetable stock. Add salt and toss in the parsley and the peppers. Mix well. ■ Dip pasta again in hot water for about 20 seconds and add to the pan. Toss well so that the sauce completely coats the pasta. Serve immediately with grated Parmesan on top. ■ PER SERVING 545.50 kcals, protein 17.65g, carbs 86.73g, fat 14.12g, sat fat 2.60g, fibre 4.43g, salt 0.8g
Med-style lamb filo pouches Serves 6 ■ 45 minutes ■ MODERATELY EASY Lamb filo pies are very easy to make. Just try and keep the mince mixture dry to get a nice crispy filo crust after baking.
Spinach tagliatelle with olive oil and piquanté peppers Serves 6 ■ 40 minutes ■ MODERATELY EASY I believe that freshly-made pasta is always delicious. However, while cooking the pasta, you should ensure that it is neither over-blanched nor tossed about too much in the pan. spinach 250g salt 10g semolina 50g refined flour 500g + a little extra for sprinkling eggs 5, lightly whisked olive oil 50ml garlic 20g, chopped thyme 10g vegetable stock 50ml salt to taste parsley 30g, chopped red and yellow piquanté peppers 108 BBC GoodFood
12 each (try Peppadew available at gourmet stores) Parmesan cheese grated, to serve ■ Clean the spinach leaves and remove the stalk. Blanch the leaves in boiling water and immediately transfer to ice cold water. ■ Purée them to a fine paste in a blender. Mix together the salt, the semolina and the flour. Pass it through a sieve and into a bowl. Break the eggs and add in the spinach paste. Knead until the dough is well mixed, smooth and stiff. ■ Divide the dough into small balls. Roll each into a thin sheet of roughly 2.5cm and cut into long, flat strips i.e. tagliatelle. Sprinkle a little flour over them and store, covered, in a cool place till needed. ■ Heat water in a big pot and add salt. As the water boils, add the pasta for around 2 minutes (check one strand for doneness). Remove and chill in ice-cold
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mixed nuts (walnut, almond slices, pistachio) 50g olive oil 50ml onion 50g, chopped garlic 10g, chopped lamb mince 500g tomato purée 50g mint a few sprigs nutmeg 10g, grated salt a pinch black pepper a pinch raisins 20g filo pastry 1 packet (try Jus Rol available at gourmet stores) butter 50g, melted THE ORANGE AND PRUNE SAUCE pitted prunes 40g orange juice 200ml star anise 2 salt to taste black pepper 20g ■ To make the sauce, roughly chop the prunes. Heat orange juice in a pan and add the prunes. Once it starts boiling, add the star anise. Let it simmer and reduce. As it starts getting thick, add salt and pepper. Keep warm for serving. NOVEMBER 2012
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BBC GoodFood 109
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■ Preheat the oven to 220°C. Roast all the nuts. Heat the oil in a pan and sauté the onion and garlic until they turn golden. Add lamb mince and sauté till it becomes light brown in colour. Add the tomato purée, mint, nutmeg and seasoning. Keep stirring till cooked and dry, then keep aside. ■ Cool and add the nuts and raisins. Mix well. Spread each filo sheet on a flat surface. Lightly brush each sheet with butter. Spoon the meat mixture in the centre of the filo and fold it like a pouch. Glaze with butter from all sides. ■ Repeat until the mixture is finished. Bake the parcels for about 10 minutes or until golden. Serve hot with the sauce. ■ PER SERVING 531.50 kcals, protein 25.23g, carbs 33.83g, fat 34.00g sat fat 11.28g, fibre 2g, salt 0.2g
fish
Serves 6 ■ 20 minutes + marinating ■ EASY Known for its health benefits, asafoetida (hing) is extensively used in Indian food and in Ayurvedic food. Pairing the fish with the asafoetida creates a unique yet delicious dish. green chillies 4 lemon juice 30ml onions 200g, finely chopped garlic 50g, finely chopped Gondhoraj lemons 2 salt to taste asafoetida powder (hing) 6g oil 50ml bekti fish 6, 120g each, filleted
Catalan-inspired exotic mushroom stew
THE HERB GARLIC BUTTER SAUCE onion 20g, chopped garlic 5g, chopped lemon juice 20ml butter 300g parsley 10g, chopped lemon zest 10g
Serves 6 ■ 40 minutes + soaking ■ EASY In this recipe, I have used tomatoes to make the base of the stew unlike most stews that only use cream and béchamel sauce. If you cannot find any of these mushrooms you can easily substitute with other dried/ fresh options although dried mushrooms have a signature taste and lift the dish. baby potatoes 100g dried shiitake mushrooms 50g (try Epicure available at gourmet stores) dried porcini mushrooms 50g (try Epicure available at gourmet stores) dried oyster mushrooms 50g (try Epicure available at gourmet stores) tomatoes 150g olive oil 30ml rosemary 20g bay leaves 2 onions 100g, chopped garlic 25g, chopped tomato paste 200g paprika 20g (try La Chinata available at gourmet stores) butter 25g button mushrooms 150g salt to taste pepper powder 20g 110 BBC GoodFood
■ Clean and boil the baby potatoes. Soak the dried mushrooms separately for at least one hour in warm water. Remove from the water and cut the mushrooms in half. Keep the mushroom water aside. ■ Blanch the tomatoes and remove the skin. Cut into four and deseed. Preserve the juices and dice the deseeded tomatoes. ■ Heat 2 tbsp oil in a pan, add the rosemary and bay leaves. Sauté for 1 minute and then add the onion and garlic. Sauté till golden. Add the diced tomato and cook for another minute. Add the tomato paste and cook well till the mixture becomes smooth and fine. Add the paprika powder. Remove from fire. ■ Heat butter and 10ml of oil in a deep pan. Add the boiled potatoes, soaked mushrooms and sauté for about 2 to 3 minutes and then add the button mushrooms. Cook till golden. Add the tomato mixture. Add salt and pepper to taste. Let it simmer on low heat for 15-20 minutes. Check for seasoning again and serve hot. ■ PER SERVING 203.50 kcals, protein 4.48g, carbs 29.85g, fat 8.62g, sat fat 2.83g, fibre 8.30g, salt 0.3g
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■ Clean, deseed and finely chop the green chillies. Mix the lemon juice, onions, garlic and chopped chillies. Grate the lemon zest of one of the Gondhoraj lemons. ■ Add salt, asafoetida and oil. Mix well. Marinate the fish in this mix for at least 6 hours. Heat a pan and glaze it with oil. Add the fish and grill at high heat on both sides. ■ Arrange it on a baking dish and top with the marinade, removing any excess oil. Bake in a pre-heated oven at 220°C for 3-4 minutes. ■ Meanwhile, make the herbed butter sauce. Heat a pan and sauté the onion and garlic till they start changing colour. Add the lemon juice and butter. Whisk to form a thick emulsion. Add parsley and lemon zest. Serve hot with the fish and a wedge of Gondhoraj lemon. ■ PER SERVING 269 kcals, protein 31.75g, carbs 57.68g, fat 11.80g, sat fat 2.22g, fibre 1.68g, salt 0.1g
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GOOD FOOD STAR RECIPE
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only the top grill functioning. Serve immediately. ■ PER SERVING 256.67 kcals, protein 7.95g, carbs 36.62g, fat 9.25g sat fat 4.38g fibre 1.83g, salt 0g
Spanish churros Serves 6 ■ 25 minutes ■ EASY Churros are one of the easiest desserts to make yet they will never let you down. water 400ml butter 200g sugar 40g refined flour 300g baking powder 6g salt 6g eggs 4 refined oil to deep fry icing sugar 100g (try Bluebird available at gourmet stores) cinnamon powder 20g
Mango crèma Catalana Serves 6 ■ 20 minutes + refrigeration ■ EASY This is a Catalan custard very similar to the French crème brûlée. You can make it a few hours ahead and refrigerate. Just be sure to brûlée immediately before serving. milk 800ml caster sugar 100g (try Tate & Lyle available at gourmet stores) mango pulp 200g egg yolks 6 cornflour 40g 112 BBC GoodFood
■ Boil the milk with sugar and mango pulp. As the mixture boils, strain it through a fine sieve. In another bowl, whisk the egg yolks and add cornflour. Mix well. Add the cornflour and egg mix to the milk and whisk well. ■ Start cooking at a low temperature till it thickens. Make sure to stir it all the time while it is on the fire. Pour the mixture into the serving bowl or 6 ramekins. ■ Chill them in the refrigerator till the custard sets. Sprinkle an even layer of sugar on top with the help of a tea strainer. Brûlée with a blow torch or under a very hot oven (220°C) with
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■ In a pan, heat the water and butter. Bring to the boil. Simmer, stirring until the butter melts. Add sugar and mix well. Remove from the heat. ■ Add in the flour, baking powder and salt. Mix with a wooden spoon until it reaches a doughy consistency and doesn’t stick to the side of the saucepan. Cover and set aside for 15 minutes or until cool. ■ Crack the eggs in a bowl, whisk lightly and mix in the dough, one spoon at a time. Spoon dough into a piping bag fitted with a star-shaped nozzle. ■ Heat oil in a large flat pan for frying. Pipe the churros of 10cm length into the pan of oil. Deep fry for 1-2 minutes or until golden brown. Dust with icing sugar and cinnamon powder. Serve immediately with hot chocolate sauce. ■ PER SERVING 601.5 kcals, protein 9.42g, carbs 62.12g, fat 35.68g, sat fat 18.75g, fibre 1.37g, salt 0.6g
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For an eggless version, add about 15g baking powder and adjust the thickness of dough so that it can be piped out. The texture may change but not the taste.
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love your
leftovers This Diwali, waste less, taste more. Our brilliant re-use recipes show you how to use up everything from leftover kaju katlis to chocolates and nuts
Recipes KISHI ARORA Photographs SHIRISH SEN Ingredients courtesy GODREJ NATURE’S BASKET
use it up!
KAJU KATLI 1
“Diwali is India’s week-long celebration of lights. Often your refrigerator is overflowing with lots of Diwali mithai and gifts. The leftovers don’t have to be the same old barfi or kulfi. Here are some creative recipes for those obsessive, compulsive food addicts who settle for nothing but the best.”
2
Serves 6-8 ■ 30 minutes ■ EASY A quick, fool-proof recipe for those who want to make their own marzipan at home. kaju katli 500g milk 1/2 tsp
3
4
How to use up 1 KAJU KATLI 2 FIGS 3 WALNUTS 4 CHOCOLATE 5 NUTS 5
— Kishi Arora, pastry chef and food consultant
114 BBC GoodFood
Marzipan
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■ Take the leftover kaju katli and start kneading them all together. You can heat the mixture slightly in a microwave to soften the mithai. Knead well with your hands to make it smooth and glossy. If it’s too sticky, add some more katli. If it’s too dry, add a drop or two of unsweetened milk. ■ Roll out the kneaded ball into 1/4inch thick sheet or as thin as you can and cut into desired shapes. Gather the extra bits, and roll it out again to use them all up. Cool and store in a dry place. Store at room temperature for a week or in the fridge for longer. ■ PER SERVING 346.14 kcals, protein 3.74g, carbs 48.89g, fat 16.03g, sat fat 0.01g, fibre none, salt none NOVEMBER 2012
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You can colour, flavour or form marzipan into different candies as decorations for cakes or figurines.
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Fig chutney Serves 4-6 ■ 1 hour ■ EASY Simple to prepare, this chutney has a sweet and spicy note to it. Red onion and walnut add a lovely texture. This is a recipe I make and eat all year round using dried figs, and fresh ones if they are in season. dried figs 10 white vinegar 1/8 cup (try Heinz available at gourmet stores) water 1/8 cup honey 1/8 cup onion 1 small, diced ginger 1 tsp, grated walnuts a handful, chopped aniseed a pinch cardamom a pinch salt a pinch
use it up! FIGS
■ Soak the figs in hot water for about 30 minutes. Drain. Cut off the hard stem and then chop finely. In a saucepan, over medium heat, bring the remaining ingredients to a simmer. Stir often to prevent sticking. ■ Add the figs once the mixture comes to a simmer, and continue to cook, stirring until the figs are soft. Remove from heat once the mixture has a thick, compôte-like consistency. This can be served warm or at room temperature with toast, paratha or as a topping for crostini. Will keep for a week in the refrigerator. ■ PER SERVING 190.80 kcals, protein 2.08g, carbs 37.82g, fat 4.22g, sat fat 0.4g, fibre 2.86g, salt none TIP Check the liquid level. There should be a little left — the figs will keep soaking up the liquid. Add an additional 1/4 cup of water if necessary.
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BBC GoodFood 117
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use it up! WALNUTS
Walnut pesto Serves 4 ■ 45 minutes ■ EASY Walnut pesto is the more laidback, country cousin of the traditional pesto. Walnuts are not as fancy (or costly) as pine nuts, and they leave their own distinctive crunchy mark. I have not added basil into the pesto mix but have instead tossed the whole leaves into the spaghetti. olive oil 1/3 cup walnuts 1 1/2 cups Parmesan cheese 1/2 cup, freshly grated garlic cloves 2 lemon juice 2 tbsp salt to taste ■ Blend all the ingredients together and make into a paste. Store in an airtight container in the refrigerator. Add more olive oil before serving, if taken straight from the fridge. Use up by simply tossing into spaghetti, as a spread on bread or with chips. ■ PER SERVING 474 kcals, protein 12.38g, carbs 6.15g, fat 45.18g, sat fat 6.93g, fibre 4.58g, salt 0.2g TIP Add 1/4 cup sun-dried tomatoes to make the pesto tangier.
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WorldMags.net Chocolate cookies Serves 4-6 ■ 45 minutes ■ EASY A crisp outer shell with a soft, chewy inside, you can chop the chocolates you receive during Diwali and incorporate them into any cookie dough mixture. butter 500g sugar 275g brown sugar 275g eggs 3 flour 600g baking soda 5g chocolate 250g, chopped ■ Cream the sugars and butter together with an electric whisk till fluffy. Add eggs, flour and baking soda; mix until incorporated. Fold in the chopped chocolates. Chill the mixture for 10 minutes in the freezer. Scoop to desired size and place on a baking tray. Bake at 160°C for 8-10 minutes until brown on the edges. Cool and serve. ■ PER SERVING 1524.67 kcals, protein 19.48g, carbs 181.37g, fat 83.33g, sat fat 52.47g, fibre 4.35g, salt 0.7g
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CHOCOLATE
TIP When you sandwich two cakes together add the chopped chocolates to the Bavarian mousse/cream to add texture.
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WorldMags.net Honey nutter Serves 6-8 ■ 45 minutes ■ EASY Extremely kid-friendly, your children will enjoy making this easy recipe. Try using flavoured honey such as orange honey or lavender honey. honey 1 cup peanut butter 1 cup (chunky or creamy) powdered milk 1 1/2 cups mixed fruit and nuts 1/4th cup, ground (almonds, raisins, cashews, pine nuts and pistachios). You could also use a mixture of seeds (pumpkin, melon or charmagaz) ■ Mix all the wet ingredients together. Roll into small balls and roll them onto ground mixed fruit and nuts or seeds if desired. Refrigerate for a while and then serve whole or crushed over chocolate fudge. ■ PER SERVING 395.57 kcals, protein 10.06g, carbs 48.26g, fat 21.46g, sat fat 4.34g, fibre 2.60g, salt 0.1g
use it up!
MIXED NUTS
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1ST ANNIVERSARY SPECIAL FEATURE
Global Classics
25
dishes THE WORLD LOVES TO EAT!
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anniversary special global classics
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Presenting the ultimate eat list. Good Food pays a tribute to 25 blockbusters from across the planet that have left an indelible mark on the global culinary map Words KAINAZ CONTRACTOR, VIDYA BALACHANDER, MEHER MIRZA
Photograph MATT MUNRO
1 PAELLA Traditionally considered a labourer’s meal, paella is Spain’s most recognisable dish after tapas. Despite its origins and ingredients causing much debate amongst paella purists, it is safe to say that paella is first and foremost a saffron-scented, one-pan rice dish with the other ingredients being variable. The earliest preparation of paella can be traced to the rice-eating inhabitants of Moorish Spain who used to prepare casseroles on an open fire with rice, spices and seafood for religious and celebratory occasions. Rice and saffron was then adopted by the people of the coastal fields of Valencia, who prepared this dish in a wide, shallow pan called a paella or paellera pan (which the dish was later named after) using beans, chicken, rabbit
or duck with the only seafood used being snails. However, variations of the same are made throughout Spain with whatever is locally abundant and seasonal like fish, seafood, shellfish and chorizo. The quality and variety of rice used in preparing paella is paramount. A short-grained rice called Bomba or Calaspara is preferred over long-grained varieties for a greater absorption of the seafood or chicken stock. The texture of well-made paella is not to be confused with that of risotto. While the former favours plump and separate grains, the latter is extolled for its creaminess. This communal
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dish is ideally cooked in the open on a wood-fire so that the rice absorbs some of the smokiness from the fire along with the intense flavour of the sofrito (garlic, onions and tomatoes sautéed in olive oil), which forms the base of the paella. Valencians believe that the true test of any paella lies in its soccarat, that delightful caramelised crust of rice that forms at the bottom of the pan. A minute too long on the flame and you’ve got yourself a charred rice crispy. We’d fight off anyone for that crust, after we’ve scooped up the freshest prawns and clams, naturally. (See recipe on p 150).
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Som tam
hold their form when grated or sliced into thin matchsticks and the unique texture they lend to som tam is one of the dish’s selling points. As testament to the dish’s pervasive popularity, it is also served with minor variations in neighbouring Laos and Cambodia. Additions may include cherry tomatoes, French beans or long beans, shrimp sauce, pla ra or fermented fish sauce and roasted peanuts. Palm sugar is often added to som tam but it is considered an innovation. Nearly always, som tam is served with glutinous sticky rice, which acts as a perfect counterpoint to the searing heat of the dish. (See recipe on p 150).
Photograph GARETH MORGANS
Even if you aren’t a fan of strong-smelling ripe papayas and their densely-packed black seeds, chances are you’ll still love som tam. Thailand’s most beloved salad is made of crunchy raw papaya tossed together with Thai chillies, garlic and lime juice or fish sauce and pounded into a juicy, pucker-worthy mix in a mortar and pestle. Literally, som tam means ‘pounded papaya’. It is believed to have originated in the Isaan region of northeastern Thailand and is a spirited representative of the strong sour and spicy flavours that are typical of the local cuisine. Unlike ripe papayas, green papayas have a mild, tangy flavour and a vegetal crunch. They
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Long before isolated Myanmar opened its doors to the outside world, an ambassador of the country’s cuisine had stolen hearts across international borders. Hearty, rich yet nuanced, khowsuey is everything a one-pot meal should be. Ohn no khaoswè or khowsuey for short is a Burmese dish made of wheat noodles in a thick, curry-like broth that also contains chicken or beef. Khowsuey is distinguished by the use of coconut milk, which lends the broth heft and creaminess, and it is usually thickened with gram flour. The dish is believed to have originated in the Shin state of Myanmar that borders China to the north, Laos to the east and Thailand to the south. It incorporates elements from the similar yet distinct cooking styles of each of these countries. Every spoonful of the broth offers an amalgam of flavours: the nutty sweetness of coconut milk, a hint of heat from the spice paste that goes into making the broth and sourness from fish sauce. At heart a home-style dish, khowsuey is elevated to classic status by its humble accoutrements such as fried shallots, fried garlic, crispy fried bean sprouts, sliced raw onions, fresh chillies or chilli flakes and crisp noodles. Toss a handful of each of these accompanying elements to the big bowl of broth, take a few bites of the textural revelation that follows and you’ll be able to understand why this dish is such a star. Indeed, such is its popularity that a similar dish called khaosoi is served in northern Thailand. Steamed egg or rice noodles and meat are tossed in a soupy, coconut-rich broth similar to the yellow Thai Massaman curry and garnished with bean sprouts and onions. (See recipe on p 150).
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Photograph courtesy UMAME, RESTAURANT
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VIEW RITU DALMIA’S GNOCCHI VIDEO HERE!
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Ask any Italian nonna and she’ll tell you that making gnocchi from scratch is a labour of love. Ergo, any packaged kind must never see the light of day. Each region in Italy has its own culinary tradition of preparing these little, soft doughy dumplings. Semolina flour, milk and cheese forms the basis of the oven-baked Gnocchi alla Romana which is a speciality in Rome while in Florence, a spinach, ricotta and flour-based gnocchi is most commonly eaten. One of the most historic of Italian foods, flour-based dumplings were believed to have been introduced by the Roman legions centuries ago. The addition of potatoes was a relatively recent innovation bought on by their introduction to Europe in the 16th Century. Potato gnocchi is particularly popular in the northern Italian regions of Abruzzo, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Veneto and Liguria. Derived from the word nocchio (knot) or nocca (knuckle), gnocchi became a popular alternative to pasta. Making gnocchi into its odd and lumpy shape requires little effort and it is versatile enough to work with simple ingredients. Gnocchi also takes well to any kind of sauce that goes with pasta — meaty bolognese, simple tomato-basil or a decadently cheesy gorgonzola cream. Combined with mashed potatoes and flour to form soft, bite-sized parcels of dough, each dumpling is then ridged along one side (this allows the sauce to settle in) and boiled until all the dumplings rise to the surface. This is ensured by adding less flour to the mix so the dumplings are airy and light. It is believed that to-be Italian brides are tested on their cooking chops on the basis of how heavyhanded they are with the flour while making gnocchi. (See recipe on p 151).
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Photograph and videography RITAM BANERJEE
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TACOS
What’s not to love about freshly-made maize or wheat tortillas wrapped around a filling of meat and fresh veggies or lettuce, livened up with a spicy Mexican salsa? Tacos have been staple food for Mexicans for many centuries but their fame has spread far beyond the country. Traditionally, a taco was composed of a tortilla made of corn flour, enveloping a filling of meat such as beef, chicken, shrimp or other seafood. According to Jeffrey M Pilcher, a professor of history at the University of Minnesota who has been studying Mexican food for over 20 years, the taco dates back to 18th Century silver mines in Mexico. “In those days, a taco referred to the silver charges that were used to excavate the ore,” he said in an interview to the Smithsonian magazine in 2012. Since then, much has changed. Tortillas made of wheat flour have become just as popular as corn tortillas.
Sometime in the 1940s, enterprising Mexican restaurateurs in the United States discovered that the secret to increasing the longevity of fresh tortillas was to fry them and fold them over to resemble a ‘shell’ that could easily be stuffed. Now, the taco is a versatile snack especially in the United States, with hybrids such as Korean BBQ-inspired tacos selling like hot cakes off taco trucks. The taco is a self-contained snack that eliminates the need for any utensils, making it an ideal meal-to-go. It marries many flavours and textures in one compact parcel: the blandness of the filling with the sear of salsa and the bite of meat with the crunch of the shell. Pilcher describes this global favourite best: “When you think about it, a chicken taquito with a good hot sauce is really a lot like a stick of dynamite.” (See recipe on p 152).
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There are many differences that separate the heat-loving cuisines of Indonesia, Malaysia, Singapore and Sri Lanka, but they are all united by the love of sambal. Each of these countries has a slightly different take on this chilli-based condiment, which either plays the role of a side dish, such as achaar in Indian cuisine, or is used to perk up other dishes with its heat. In its simplest form, sambal is a paste of raw red chillies, basted with a little oil. Dried fish and shrimp paste are common additions to sambal because they give it an umami flavour. For instance, sambal belacan is a popular Malay paste made of fresh chillies that are pounded with toasted shrimp paste (called belacan) with lime juice and sugar. Sambal belacan is added to asam laksa, the sour fish soup popular in western Malaysia. Two well-known varieties of fish sambal serve as popular accompaniments in spicy Sri Lankan cuisine. Both seeni sambal and katta sambal get their distinctive savoury taste from Maldive fish or cured tuna that has been dried and powdered, a speciality of the country of Maldives. While seeni sambal (or sweet sambal) is akin to a caramelised red onion relish made by cooking red onions with Maldive fish and spices, katta sambal is a dry chutney made by grinding red chilli flakes and Maldive fish. When eaten with string hoppers (or idiyappams) or kiribath (a traditional coconutty rice cake), these sambals provide the perfect contrast. (See recipe on p 152).
Photograph courtesy ROYAL ORCHID, BENGALURU
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Tom yum
Barbecuing a batch of meat glistening in its sweet and spicy marinade at the comfort of your own table has always been one of the greatest draws of any Korean restaurant. Gimmickry aside, we believe any reason is good enough to have a second helping of bulgogi. Thin slices of meat that borrow their honeyed and smoky flavour from a marinade, sizzling to meaty perfection on an open grill sums up the appeal of bulgogi. While the Korean tradition of fermenting food (such as kimchi) has long been acknowledged globally, only recently have restaurants across the world been playing up this aspect of Korean food. Literally meaning meat and fire, bulgogi gets its name from the technique of cooking the meat over an open flame. While the beginnings of bulgogi and its evolution into the dish it is today are somewhat hazy, it is said to have originated during the Goguryeo era where the beef was grilled on skewers and called maekjeok. Although traditional recipes require one to prepare the beef over an open grill, broiled and stir-fried versions of beef, chicken and pork are just as common in Korean homes. Whether eaten with steamed rice, stuffed into a Korean sushi roll (kimbap), tossed with noodles or perked up by a fiery red chilli and soy bean gochujang paste and wrapped within a lettuce roll, bulgogi is endlessly versatile. (See recipe on p 153).
Photograph MICHAEL PAUL
The words tom yum literally mean hot and sour soup. The cloudy broth borrows its bite from spicy chillies and its fragrance from the kaffir lime leaves and lemongrass while the fish sauce lends it umami. In Thailand the ingredients used to make the soup are considered medicinal — lemongrass helps in digestion, chillies help ward off coughs and colds, and kaffir lime is thought to cure dandruff. Delicious and nourishing, this magical soup has since been borrowed by Thailand’s neighbours Malaysia, Indonesia and Singapore. Some sources claim that although the original tom yum was a fishbased soup, the version most familiar today is the shrimp one due to the latter’s popularity in the West. Coconut milk too is not part of the traditional recipe but was added as a way of smoothing over the searing intensity provided by the chillies. To add heft to the dish, some toss in mushrooms or bean sprouts. It’s all by way of gilding the lily however — tom yum is delicious with only its basic ingredients and that’s just what the doctor ordered. (See recipe on p 152).
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Photograph DAVID MUNNS
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Sushi
Photograph GARETH MORGANS
Words ACHAL AGGARWAL, Sous Chef at Megu, New Delhi
The first reference to sushi appeared in the 8th Century in China. In traditional parlance, wrapping salted fish in fermented rice was termed nare zushi, a technique used to preserve fish. The fish was consumed and the rice discarded. In due course, this practice reached Japan where both were consumed. This new dish gained popularity across Japan and gradually became intrinsic to its culture. With the passage of time, several regional variants of sushi were created and adding vegetables, herbs and dried preserved foods imparted a local flavour to it. The most popular are the Tokyo and Osaka styles of sushi. Tokyo-style sushi is called Edo-mae-zushi which means in front of Edo (Tokyo was called Edo in 1868). This style of sushi is globally recognized. Nigiri, gunkan, hosomaki and chirashi are some common sushi types found in any sushi bar. Classic sushi is made with vinegar-marinated shari (sticky Japanese rice), nori (seaweed) sheets, roasted sesame seeds and seafood, which may be cooked, baked or fried. It’s a myth that traditional sushi is always made of raw fish! It was Chef Matsuhisa Nobu (of Nobu fame) who created a new style of sushi, which was later followed by many Italian and French chefs who added their own touch to it. Ingredients like cheese, foie gras, wagyu beef, fruits, and marinated vegetables became highly appreciated as sushi ingredients. Across the world though, people appreciate their sushi in different ways. Americans love it with lots of mayo and wasabi, Italians and French add cheese to theirs, while Indians often want theirs with a spicy kick. 132 BBC GoodFood
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Pho
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Pick any locality in the world with a sizable Vietnamese population and you’re sure to spot a cart selling this hearty beef noodle soup. Pho is to the Vietnamese what ramen is to the Japanese, a comforting dish that is more commonly associated with street food than home cooking. Known to have originated in 20th Century Vietnam in Hanoi, this clear soup with rice noodles is a meal in itself. A meaty beef or chicken stock flavoured with star anise, cinnamon and other herbs is poured over a bed of blanched rice noodles, then topped with rare slices of beef that cook in the glistening hot broth. Like any soup, only the stock has the true potential to elevate it from a cheap source of nourishment to a sublime dish that’s hard to forget. Vegetables aren’t added to the broth but are served as garnishes (bean sprouts, lemon wedges, red chillies, spring onions, basil) which are added to the soup later with a dash of fish sauce and hoisin sauce, intensifying the subtlety of the broth. (See recipe on p 154).
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Photograph MYLES NEW
There are many chefs in Japan who have achieved the status of sushi masters. A case in point is 80-year-old Jiro Ono who runs a 10-seater, threeMichelin star sushi restaurant in Tokyo. But it’s not easy to become a sushi chef. In Japan the journey for aspiring sushi chefs starts by washing and cleaning, irrespective of their educational background. It was no different for me. When I was training in Tokyo, for the first few days my only task was to clean the kitchen floor all day. It was only when the chef saw me doing it with a smile for a couple of days, did he started teaching me how to make sushi. If you’re making sushi at home, remember, the more you touch the ingredients, the more you alter the natural appearance and flavour of the dish. Don’t over press the rice, keep the temperature of your palm as low as possible, use a very sharp knife to cut the sushi and keep the seafood at a temperature between 0-4˚C. (See recipe on p 153). BBC GoodFood 133
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Egg fried rice
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There are probably as many kinds of fried rice as there are countries in Asia but among the most famous are Yangzhou chao fan, the Chinese rice dish. The origins of the dish are shrouded in mystery. Many believe it stemmed from the privations of a Chinese rice farmer who resourcefully threw together some leftovers to come up with this homey staple. Others believe it was invented in the city of Yangzhou during the Sui dynasty (589-618 AD). Those of a more questioning turn of mind believe that Yangzhou chao fan was actually created by chefs in Hong Kong in order to please a posse of affluent dandies. Whatever the story, the truth is that this simple dish now has an inviolable culinary niche across the world. Today almost every eating joint in Shanghai offers its own version of the dish but in truth, chao fan is very simply the delicious offspring of egg having its way with rice. While in China it is typically eaten as a meal in a bowl, around the world it is more often consumed as a side with gravy dishes. However, it is easy to transform this simple preparation into a steaming one-pot meal by throwing in any leftover veggies, seafood or meat. This makes it a most versatile (and forgiving) dish. (See recipe on p 154).
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TEMPURA
Few things delight as much as a tempura. An unfurled prawn, a delicate shoot of asparagus, a curl of mushroom are all delicious in themselves. But when dipped into a light, thin tempura batter and fried to a crisp, they transform into the freshest, crispest fritters ever. But they are not just fritters – the Japanese have elevated batter frying to an art form. Perfectly deep fried without an ounce of grease, tempura batter is feather light and precisely engineered to be so thin you can see right through to the seafood or the vegetable. Stories are told of a wealthy shogun who died from eating too much of it, although this is probably an urban legend. Tempura is one of many methods the Japanese use to deep fry food; it refers specifically to tiny, chopped pieces of seafood or vegetables that are then fried in a light batter. Meat and poultry are not commonly used. The secret to a lacy, crisp batter is to carefully measure the ingredients and it’s best to eat the morsels as soon as they are plucked from the boiling oil. To claim Portuguese heritage for a dish that is considered a Japanese icon might be blasphemous, but so it is. Nearly 400 years ago, explains The Oxford Companion to Food, Jesuit missionaries first made their way onto Kyushu island, then moved on to Nagasaki, a city that subsequently became a hub for trade with the Portuguese. According to historian W Scott Morton, not only did the missionaries succeed in converting many Japanese into Christians, their presence resulted in a linguistic and culinary give and take. In Portuguese, the word ‘tempuras’ meant ‘fried shrimp in batter,’ something that was traditionally made by the priests on days of abstinence from meat. The Japanese absorbed this tradition and by the 18th Century, tempura had been irretrievably intertwined with the very fabric of Japan. (See recipe on p 154).
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Spring rolls supposedly got their name because they were traditionally eaten during the Spring Festival or the Chinese New Year. If we had to describe Vietnamese spring rolls, we would say they offer a taste of summer in a small bite. Fresh, barely-seasoned veggies, vermicelli noodles, boiled shrimp, pork or other meat, lettuce and herbs are rolled into a tight package and wrapped in translucent rice paper. In Vietnam these spring rolls are called goi cuon and are served cold. By themselves Vietnamese spring rolls offer more by way of texture than flavour. But the accompanying sauces, such as fermented soybean sauce, fish sauce spiked with minced garlic and chillies and hoisin sauce with peanuts, perk up the bland freshness of the cold rolls. If crossover appeal is the litmus test of a dish’s global popularity, Vietnamese spring rolls certainly pass with flying colours. Even large retail chains like Trader Joe’s in the States have begun stocking pre-packaged fresh rolls. (See recipe on p 155). 136 BBC GoodFood
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Photograph LIS PARSONS
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14Laksa curry
Sold by hawkers all over Malaysia and just as popular in Singapore and Indonesia, laksa is so much more than noodle soup. Traditionally made of thick white noodles or thin vermicelli tossed in a pungent broth also costarring a number of ingredients such as chicken or shrimp, fried tofu, fish sticks and bean sprouts, laksa is gloriously messy comfort food. It is considered a product of Peranakan or Nyonya culture. Making a traditional laksa is a painstaking process that involves teasing the flavours out of ginger, garlic, galangal, lemongrass, chilli and lime by pounding them together in a mortar and pestle. There are several regional variations, the most common being the curry laksa, which is akin to the Burmese khowsuey in the use of coconut milk. The other well-known variety is the asam laksa, popular in the state of Penang. Asam laksa is a sour fish-based noodle soup that gets its pucker from the use of tamarind. (See recipe on p 155). NOVEMBER 2012
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PAD THAI The best food in Thailand is found on the little streets aka sois in Bangkok. It is no secret that I have learnt a lot of my cooking from those gullies. The spices, the cooks, the purity of the produce, the taste, the speed at which the food is prepared and, of course, the price, is sure to inspire anyone. Pad is a Thai word meaning stir fried. Pad Thai can be found anywhere in Thailand — it is a hugely popular street food. Many Thai chefs have told me that its popularity can be traced to the 1930s when the Thai prime minister wanted to reduce rice consumption to further increase already booming rice exports. And since pad Thai was already very popular, he declared it would be the country’s national dish. From the government’s perspective, this ensured that the people ate more noodles than rice. Much to the pleasure of foodies, pad Thai became such a rage that many variations emerged across the country and the world. I accidentally came across pad Thai in Bangkok in 1996 when I happened to meet some street chefs who rustled up fantastic pad Thai in seconds. I just
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had to learn it. They were making it on a flat plate called the griddle and the whole ritual was almost a theatrical demonstration. There was plenty of drama, throwing noodles up in the air and lots of tossing and turning. Traditionally the pad Thai is made of stir-fried rice noodles with egg, tamarind juice, fish sauce, red chilli with bean sprouts, peanuts, shrimp, chicken or tofu. Boy, do I relish it! I have learned many pad Thai secrets during my trips to Thailand. One of them being that it is key to not overcook your proteins. Whether it is poultry or seafood, you have to cook it at high heat, get a nice crusty sear on one side, then add your other ingredients like egg, vegetables, sauce and rice noodles, even while the protein is still undercooked. The steam generated from the sauce gives it the perfect flavour. Today pad Thai is one of the most widely-appreciated Thai dishes in the world and one can find it on the menu of the swankiest South East Asian restaurants and eateries across all major metropolises. (See recipe on p 156).
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Videography VIKAS MUNIPALLE
Words NIKHIL CHIB, Celebrity chef and MD at Busaba, Mumbai
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AUGMENTED REALITY
VIEW NIKHIL CHIB’S PAD THAI VIDEO HERE!
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Rendang
Words MANU CHANDRA, Executive Chef, Olive Beach, Monkey Bar and Likethatonly, Bengaluru
Shepherd’s pie, or as most websites call it, cottage pie, is a quintessentially English dish. The English made pies with pastry crusts, meats and seasonings as early as the 1300s but shepherd’s pie was a relatively recent creation. Some attribute it to the Irish, but I’ve not been able to find any references to support that. It may have been created by some home cook eager to use up leftover meats and roasts, along with the newest starchy crop of potatoes. Given the natural affinity of the Brits towards all things pie, it must have gained acceptance easily. Shepherd’s pie is traditionally made of lamb, potatoes, fresh herbs, onions and milk, but almost every culture and country has a version of meat with potatoes and very often in a baked format. An interesting twist to the traditional recipe is Cumberland pie, made by simply adding some breadcrumbs on top. The Canadians have a version called pâté chinois, an interesting mix of shepherd’s pie with corn and ketchup often served with pickled beets. Shepherd’s pie came to India with the British Raj and Anglo Indian cuisine seems to have got some inspiration from it. The mince cutlet is a case in point, which is essentially the same dish in cutlet form. I’m pretty certain that a version of the pie was cooked at my home in New Delhi. My grandmother had just acquired an oven she was hell bent on using. At the time no fresh herbs were available to speak of but her kheema bake was tasty nonetheless. My tips for making a wonderful shepherd’s pie: Make sure the meat is fatty; it retains moisture better. The potatoes should be mashed when they are hot and the milk, cream and nutmeg folded in quickly. The potatoes should also be light and fluffy so that they don’t sink but form a nice brown crust on the top. Season the lamb with some herbs, even a little tomato if you want, but avoid over-flavouring it; the beauty of the dish lies in its simplicity. (See recipe on p 156).
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Shepherd’s pie
What’s the world’s most delicious dish? Easy — it’s rendang. But don’t take our word for it. Last year, according to an online poll conducted by CNN International, rendang breezed its way to the top, pushing past competitors such as ramen and sushi. Rendang takes pride of place in the Malaysian kitchen but is integral to both Indonesian and Malay cuisines. Its most popular variant is the bovine version, but you will find seafood, lamb, chicken and even vegetarian ones. The rendang is not a careless amalgam of ingredients — the meat stands for the leaders of the society, coconut symbolises intellectuals who are supposed to enrich society, chilli is equated with religious heads and the hoi polloi are the spices. The meat is slowly simmered for hours in creamy coconut milk flavoured with an exuberant mixture of ginger, kaffir lime, chillies, lemongrass, galangal and garlic. As the coconut and spices get slowly absorbed, the meat caramelises, turning a crispy, sticky golden brown on the outside while remaining tender and succulent within. Saucy by taste but not by consistency, the rendang is essentially a dry dish, but if it is served with a sauce, it is probably a variant called gulai or kalio. (See recipe on p 156).
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Fondue
The piri piri prawn is one well-travelled crustacean. The dish takes its name from the blisteringly hot piri piri chilli born in South America and transported across the ocean to Mozambique by Portuguese explorers. So inspired were the Portuguese by the African spice mix that they brought it back to Portugal with them. It has since worked its way into the hearts and mouths of millions across the world. Such a hybrid dish can seem overwhelming but the recipe is simplicity itself. It gets its bite from a zesty marinade made of chillies, garlic, paprika and lime that are all pounded together and then slathered onto the prawns where they sit for at least four hours. The marinade’s the best thing. Next, a charcoal grill is fired up and the plump prawns tossed into it for just a few minutes. The chillies and the sauce may plop down onto the coals but no matter. This should be encouraged, for it causes the smoke to rise and permeate the prawns, giving them a beautifully smoky flavour. What the dish lacks in finesse, it makes up for in flavour. (See recipe on p 157).
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Photograph LIS PARSONS
18 Piri piri
Fondue is believed to have originated high in the Alpine villages of Switzerland. Provisions were scarce during the harsh winter, and melted cheese provided warmth and sustenance. The earliest versions are said to have contained white wine and eggs. Modern iterations of the recipe eliminated eggs and included cornstarch, which prevents the cheese from becoming stringy. A big part of the draw of eating fondue is that it is a shared experience. Traditionally, the cheeses are cooked in a caquelon or cooking pot, over a spirit lamp or a tea light. The heat is to keep the cheese mixture warm and runny, making it easy to soak up bits of crusty bread with long-stemmed forks. In Switzerland, mild cheeses such as Emmental and Gruyere are preferred for fondue, although other cheeses may also be used. Modern additions to the dish include kirsch or cherry liqueur, cracked pepper and a variety of herbs. The popularity of the dish has also inspired variations such as chocolate fondue with marshmallows or soft fruits taking the place of bread, and even fondue bourguignon, in which small pieces of meat are cooked in a pot of hot oil. (See recipe on p 158).
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Photograph GARETH MORGANS
Biryani
Ubiquitous and versatile, the biryani is present in all its fragrant glory in every part of the country. This incomparable dish transcends geographical borders by transforming humble ingredients into something magical. Each region and community in India has its own style of making biryani. Home to true blue-blooded biryani cooks, Hyderabad’s famed kacche gosht ki biryani is prized for its delicate flavour and tender meat that effortlessly falls off the bone. Parboiled rice is layered with raw mutton marinated in ground spices and papaya paste and then cooked on a dum or a slow fire with the biryani pot sealed with dough. Biryani purists insist the only true biryani is the Hyderabadi one which is a kacchi biryani while the Lucknowi pakki biryani is more of a pulao. In the latter, the meat and rice are cooked together raw in the same pot like a pulao and flavoured with whole spices. The common thread between the two versions is that both Hyderabadi and Lucknowi biryanis are cooked on dum. While the exact journey and transition that took place to make the present-day Hyderabadi biryani is uncertain, it is safe to say that it originated in Mughal courts and was influenced by the Turkish pilaf. Though biryani is commonly regarded as a North Indian culinary heirloom, the variety of biryanis that exist in south India is astonishing. From the fiery Dindigul of Tamil Nadu to the Mangalore fish biryani from Karnataka and Kerala’s beef biryani, each southern state’s Muslim community and local produce has influenced its unique style of biryani. This also holds true for the Assamese Kampuri biryani with chicken and vegetables and the mustard-scented mutton and fish biryanis of Kolkata. (See recipe on p 158).
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Rogan josh There are plenty of meat dishes in Indian cuisine but for pure lamb goodness, nothing quite compares to rogan josh. Xenophobes may fret but this dish that the world knows India by, actually has strong Iranian antecedents. Originally a Persian meat curry brought down to India by the Mughals, it was the addition of spices and local herbs that made it the beloved Indian dish it is today. Lizzie Collingham, in her book Curry: A Tale of Cooks and Conquerors, tells us that the Mughals, who found the heat of the plains unbearable, often retired to the cooler climes of Kashmir where rogan josh developed into the dish it is today. It is made of velvety pieces of lamb cooked in a rich gravy of onions and spices. The ingredients may vary; for instance, Kashmiri Brahmins are said to use fennel seeds and hing while the Muslim version of the dish uses plenty of onions, garlic and the crimson-coloured petals of the maval flower. The plant imparts its characteristic red colour to the dish, but can be picked only during the summer. So in its stead, Kashmiri red chillies are used, leading some to believe that the word ‘rogan’ in rogan josh stands for the colour red. Yet others believe the name derives from the Persian word for ghee or oil (rogan) and ‘josh’ means heat or passion. Centuries later, rogan josh became one of the curries regularly served to the British by their Indian servants and there can be no doubt that they took the recipe back with them to England. No surprise then that it rules restaurant menus in the UK today. (See recipe on p 158).
Photograph 123RF/COKEMOMO
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It’s hard to imagine that moussaka as we know it today didn’t exist until about 100 years ago. Based on a traditional Arabic dish, the mixture of lamb, onion and aubergine is said to have originated in the 10th Century AD in Baghdad where it was served to the city’s caliphs. But it was the fiddling about of the renowned Greek chef Nicholas Tselementes who in the 1920s attempted to add a touch of Francophilia to the dish by including a layer of béchamel sauce. Today it is a favourite in tavernas across Greece and a much-loved main served on special occasions in Greek households. Moussaka is essentially a layered casserole of sautéed aubergines, minced veal, tomato perasti (passata) and a cheesy, béchamellike sauce. But the recipe isn’t cast in stone. Tselementes has several substitutes for the ingredients, including using potatoes instead of aubergines. Elizabeth David suggests using beef in A Book of Mediterranean Food. The Greeks themselves often eat a similar vegetarian dish, especially during Lent. The key to making an excellent moussaka is fussing over the layers — gently browning the aubergine slices to coax their sweetness out, browning the lamb before adding salt and incorporating the milk for the sauce at the correct temperature. (See recipe on p 159).
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23Cheesecake We don’t know about you, but most often our dessert decision comes down to choosing between gooey chocolate cake and velvety cheesecake. While on most occasions we succumb to the irresistible lure of melting chocolate, on some days nothing perks us up more than a buttery, dense wedge of classic cheesecake. Said to have its origins in ancient Greece, this dessert has a cheese filling that sits atop a biscuit base and comes in both baked and no-bake versions. Every country does its own version of a cheesecake. While Greeks use a pungent myzithra cheese, Italians use a mild ricotta or mascarpone and Germans use sour quark cheese. American cheesecakes largely use cream cheese with a biscuit base, are exceptionally tall, and are baked. The most popular ones are the New York and Philadelphia cheesecakes. While the New York ones are richer and denser, those from Philadelphia are lighter in texture but more intense in flavour. The distinctly flavoured Philadelphia cream cheese by Kraft is used to make most American cheesecakes. (See recipe on p 160). WorldMags.net
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Photograph PETER CASSIDY
Photograph PHILIP WEBB
Moussaka
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Cheese soufflé
properties of egg white which, when beaten into a flavoured cheese sauce causes the mixture to rise above the rim of its dish. Threatening to deflate at the slightest delay in eating time, a soufflé must be served immediately out of the oven. Though a soufflé can be both sweet and savoury, the cheese soufflé or the soufflé au fromage is a classic French dish that uses a hard cheese such as Gruyere (Cheddar or Parmesan work equally well). Served as an hors d’oeuvre, the light, puffy burst of salted cheese of a soufflé requires no adornment. However, it is commonly served alongside a salad, soup or as a light main course. (See recipe on p 160).
Photograph ROGER STOWELL Videography KUNAL CHANDRA
If there is one dish that can bring the most accomplished chefs to their knees, it is the French cheese soufflé. Distinctly bold in flavour, its light and airy simplicity is its hallmark. Will it or won’t it rise is the question on every soufflé maker’s mind, but you’ll find that making one is less about the fuss and more about the treatment of ingredients. Egg plays the lead in the dramatic production of a rising soufflé. Julia Child, the affable American author, chef and TV personality who popularised French home cooking rightly said that “the soufflé is undoubtedly the egg at its most magnificent, the egg in its puffing power”. The soufflé relies on the airy
VIEW MANU CHANDRA’S CHEESE SOUFFLÉ VIDEO HERE!
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25 Photograph PRATEEKSH MEHRA
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Tiramisu
Words KAREN ANAND, Food writer, entrepreneur and gourmet
An Italian speciality that has emigrated to restaurants all over the world, tiramisu can be prepared in minutes, is not cooked and yet has a high degree of sophistication and appeal. The name means ‘pick or pull me up’ and could well be a reference to the number of calories this pudding contains. Whoever invented it must have been in need of some quick energy. There are many variations on the classic tiramisu but the base is always the same — cream and mascarpone cheese (a thick, high fat sour cream made by coagulating cream with a little acid. It was originally made in Lombardy in northern Italy and has to be consumed quickly); Savoiardi biscuit fingers, egg yolks, whole eggs and sugar which are gently cooked to make a sabayon or even left as is, whisked to death and finally a mix of espresso coffee and liqueur poured over the biscuits and soaked up. Alcohol is often omitted when making tiramisu for children but when used, it is most often the sweet Italian wine, Marsala. You could also use rum, brandy or the Italian orange liqueur Strega. Tiramisu is usually dusted with cocoa powder or chocolate flakes. In restaurants, the dessert is often layered alternately with coffee-soaked Savoiardi and the cream/ mascarpone/egg mixture, but in Italy, the biscuits just form the base of the dessert which could be served in a glass or in cake form, with the cream mixture on top in a heap. It is always served chilled and in Italy is generally served only in winter as mascarpone doesn’t travel too well in summer. I personally went in search of the story behind this dessert a couple of years ago. Hitherto I was under the impression that tiramisu originated in the Veneto NOVEMBER 2012
region since Savoiardi biscuits have a bit of an Austrian heritage (the Austrian border is not far away from northeast Italy) and this part of Italy also has a severe winter, which could account for the heavy ingredients. However, on my arrival in Venice, I was bombarded with a host of colourful and contradictory stories, each version being proclaimed as the gospel truth. One version went that tiramisu originated in Tuscany where cooks to the Tuscan nobility took the dish to another level by adding coffee-soaked biscuits and chocolate powder to mascarpone and cream. Another attributes its origins to Treviso, a small town near Venice where the dessert acquired the reputation of being an aphrodisiac and was served as a ‘pre-encounter’ dessert, a sort of gastronomic foreplay. Casanova was said to be fond of it, evidently. Yet others believe tiramisu was created during the First World War in northern Italy when men were being sent off to war and would take a cake version of tiramisu for energy. A plausible explanation is that it was invented for mothers after delivery. The original recipe used crema di mascarpone – mascarpone fortified with Marsala, egg yolks and sugar that was made for expectant women and for mothers post delivery. It was later made into a dessert. But my favourite story is that tiramisu started off with elderly ladies at the Rialto market in Venice who would stop by at a Rialto café to have a quick pick me up after shopping. This consisted of a Savoiardi biscuit that they would dunk into some Marsala and then wash down with a strong espresso. Some clever restaurant owner caught on to this and created a dessert around these core ingredients! (See recipe on p 162).
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Recipes
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Paella Serves 4 n 45 minutes n EASY Recipe TAMSIN BURNETT-HALL Photograph MATT MUNRO olive oil 1 tbsp onion 1, finely chopped red and yellow bell pepper 1 each, deseeded and sliced garlic cloves 2, sliced paella rice 250g (try De Cecco available at gourmet stores) vegetable stock 850ml saffron a pinch seafood 400g, mixed (prawns, mussels, clams and squid) lemon 1⁄2, small, juiced n Heat the oil in a large saucepan and soften the onion for 6-7 minutes. Add the peppers and garlic, cook for 2 minutes more, then stir in the paella rice and cook for 1 minute, stirring to coat. n Pour in the stock, add the saffron and bring to the boil. Cook uncovered, at a gentle bubble, for 20 minutes, stirring occasionally until the rice is tender. Stir in the seafood and lemon juice and cook for 2 minutes or until piping hot and completely cooked through. Serve in warm bowls. n PER SERVING 369 kcals, protein 23g, carbs 58g, fat 7g, sat fat 1g, fibre 7g, sugar 6g, salt 1.05g
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Som tam (raw papaya salad) Serves 4 n 30 minutes n MODERATELY EASY Recipe LULU GRIMES and JANINE RATCLIFFE Photograph GARETH MORGANS palm sugar 4 tbsp fish sauce 8 tbsp (try Ayam available at gourmet stores) garlic cloves 4, crushed bird’s eye chillies 4-12, to taste raw green papaya 400g, shredded cherry tomatoes 8, halved French beans 4, finely sliced, blanched Thai brinjals 8-12, halved (these are tiny, bitter aubergines available from gourmet grocers. Leave them out if you can’t find them) limes 2 peanuts 4 tbsp, roughly chopped n Put the sugar into the fish sauce and leave until it dissolves. With a large pestle and mortar (or using a large bowl and rolling pin end), pound the garlic and chillies, leaving the chillies bruised but intact. Add the papaya and pound it slightly, using your other hand to mix everything with a spoon between pounds. n Add the tomatoes, beans and brinjals and pound and stir in the same way. Squeeze in the juice of the limes, add the fish sauce and spoon into a bowl and sprinkle with peanuts. Serve with pieces of white cabbage, more green beans and Thai sticky rice. n PER SERVING 239 kcals, protein 10.7g, carbs 32.8g, fat 7.6g, sat fat 1.4g, fibre 6.1g, salt 6.2g
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Khao suey Serves 4 n 30 minutes n EASY Recipe and photograph FARROKH KHAMBATA, Umame noodles 100g oil 2 tbsp onions 2, sliced garlic 50g, peeled and chopped ginger 50g, sliced lemon grass root 1, large, chopped turmeric 1/2 tsp coriander seeds 1 tsp, crushed cumin seeds 1 tsp, crushed gram (chana) 2 tbsp, roasted and powdered salt to taste sugar 1 tsp coconut milk 2 cups mixed vegetable 1 1/2 cups (baby corn, broccoli, carrot, zucchini and peppers) lemon juice 1/2 tbsp THE CURRY PASTE chillies 50g, dried shallots 10g, finely sliced ginger 10g, finely sliced garlic 10g, finely sliced THE TOPPINGS chilli vinegar 10ml spring onions 1/4 cup, chopped lemon 1, cut into wedges coriander a handful, chopped onions 1/4 cup, sliced and fried garlic cloves 1/4 cup, sliced and fried fresh red chillies 2-3, sliced n Boil the noodles in salted hot water for 5 minutes until they soften. Drain and place in a bowl of cold water till required. When you wish to serve, immerse them in hot water again. Fry half the noodles and keep them aside. NOVEMBER 2012
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Blend the curry paste ingredients together to make a paste. n Heat 1 tbsp oil and sauté the onions, garlic, ginger, lemon grass, turmeric, coriander and cumin till the onions are soft. Add the curry paste and fry for a further 3 minutes. Cool, add the gram powder and blend it to make a paste. Sauté the paste in the remaining tbsp of oil and season with salt and sugar. n Add the coconut milk and vegetables and simmer till the vegetables are tender, adding a little water if required. Take it off the heat and add lemon juice. Pour it over the cooked noodles and serve with the toppings. Add the fried noodles as garnish and serve hot. n PER SERVING 764.25 kcals, protein 11.73g, carbs 55.13g, fat 58.78g, sat fat 45.63g, fibre 9.58g, salt 0.1g
Gnocchi alla Siciliana Serves 4 n 1 hour 20 minutes + baking n MODERATELY EASY Recipe RITU DALMIA, Diva and Café Diva. Photograph RITAM BANERJEE potatoes 1kg salt and pepper to taste egg 1 flour 300g Parmesan 50g, grated THE SAUCE extra-virgin olive oil 50ml onion 1 medium, finely chopped tomatoes 200g, deseeded and finely chopped tomato purée 1/2 cup basil leaves a handful fresh mozzarella 1 cup, cubed (try Impero available at gourmet stores) salt and pepper to season n Preheat the oven to 200°C. Wrap each potato individually in aluminium foil and bake in the oven till tender, about 40 minutes. Simply grate the potatoes. Don’t mash them with a fork, as you want them to have an even texture. Add 2 generous pinches of salt and a pinch of pepper to the potatoes. Break the egg and quickly stir it into NOVEMBER 2012
the potatoes before it cooks in the warmth of the baked potatoes. Add 2 handfuls of the flour and the Parmesan cheese and mix into the potatoes until absorbed. n Turn the potato mixture onto a clean surface and tip the rest of the flour on top. Using your hands, mix the flour into the potatoes. After a minute or two, it will form into a dough. Knead the dough lightly. When it reaches a pliable consistency, the dough is ready. Sprinkle the surface of the dough with a little flour. Slice small-sized pieces off from the dough ball and roll out into lengths that are about 1 inch thick. Use a knife to cut off small pieces, about 3/4 of an inch each, from the length of dough. Repeat until you have used up all of the dough. n While making the gnocchi, place each prepared piece on a tray or plate which has been dusted with a little flour, leaving space between each piece to prevent the gnocchi from sticking together.
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n Throw the gnocchi into abundant boiling salted water. When the gnocchi rise to the surface, they’re ready to serve. Scoop them out with a sieve, shake off the water and transfer them to a tray. Drizzle a little oil over them and give the tray a good shake, so that they’re well coated with the oil and don’t stick to each other. n For the sauce, heat the oil in a heavy based saucepan over low flame and add the onion whilst the oil is just warm and not too hot. Cook the onion till they turn opaque and add the tomatoes, and increase the flame. n Add the tomato purée and basil. Cook till the tomatoes are soft. Add the gnocchi, give it a good toss, add 1 tbsp of water in which the gnocchi was cooking. Remove from heat, add mozzarella, toss it well and serve with a drizzle of olive oil. n PER SERVING 730.75 kcals, protein 24.43g, carbs 106.63g, fat 22.40g, sat fat 7.28g, fibre 9g, salt 0.6g
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Bean chilli tacos
Fish sambal
Serves 4 n 30 minutes n EASY
Serves 2 n 35 minutes n EASY
Recipe PAULA STAIN Photograph SIMON WALTON
Recipe courtesy CHEF SUDHIR NAIR, Hotel Royal Orchid
Recipe LULU GRIMES Photograph MICHAEL PAUL
oil for frying onion 1 large, chopped red chilli 1, finely chopped garlic cloves 2, finely chopped mild chilli powder 1 tsp black-eyed beans 410g, boiled red kidney beans 410g, boiled tomatoes 800g, chopped taco shells 12 (try Salsalito available at gourmet stores) coriander a small handful, roughly chopped lime 1, cut into wedges sour cream for serving (try Impero available at gourmet stores)
pomfret or kingfish 450g cornflour for dusting refined oil for frying coriander leaves to garnish lemon wedge 1/2, to garnish THE SAMBAL lemon grass 1 stalk galangal 15g garlic 10g, finely chopped refined oil 10ml shallots 25g, finely chopped coriander stem 15g, finely chopped red chilli 15g, finely chopped shrimp paste 5g, dried chilli paste 3g, dried honey 15g lemon juice 20ml fish sauce to taste (try Ayam available at gourmet stores)
chicken or vegetable stock 1l tom yum paste 1-2 tbsp (try Blue Elephant available at gourmet stores) mushrooms 200g, a mixture of button, oyster, shiitake and shimeji shiitake mushrooms 4, dried, soaked until rehydrated (snip the ends off) lime 1, juiced fish sauce 1 tbsp (try Ayam available at gourmet stores) red chilli 1, sliced coriander a handful
n Heat 1 tbsp oil in a large frying pan and cook the onion and chilli until soft. Add the garlic and chilli powder and cook for a few more minutes. Add the beans and tomatoes and simmer for 20 minutes until thick. n Heat the taco shells according to pack instructions. Stir the coriander through the chilli and serve in the tacos with a little lime juice and soured cream or hung curd. n PER SERVING 361 kcals, protein 15.2g, carbs 51.6g, fat 11.8g, sat fat 0.4g, fibre 11.6g, salt 1.16g
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REALLY REALLY EASY
n To prepare the sambal, make a smooth paste of lemon grass and galangal. Heat oil and sauté the chopped herbs. Add the rest of the ingredients and cook for 10 minutes. Add a bit of water if it dries. n Dust the fish in cornflour and deep fry in oil (it can also be cooked in a steamer). n Place the cooked fish on a platter and pour the sambal liberally on top. Garnish with coriander leaves and a lemon wedge. Serve hot. n PER SERVING 291 kcals, protein 43.40g, carbs 14.50g, fat 7.50g, sat fat 1.40g, fibre 0.55g, salt 0.7g
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Mushroom tom yum Serves 4 n 10 minutes n EASY
n Bring the stock to the boil and stir in the paste. Add the mushrooms and simmer for 5 minutes. Add the remaining ingredients, season with more fish sauce if you think it needs it. n PER SERVING 36 kcals, protein 2.3g, carbs 2.2g, fat 2.1g, sat fat 0.1g, fibre 0.8g, salt 2.71g
Once you have the basic recipe, you can experiment with different types of seafood or even chicken tom yum. If you like, add some extra lemon grass (bashed) for a more concentrated flavour.
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Sizzling beef bulgogi Serves 2 n 30 minutes n EASY Recipe JENNIFER JOYCE Photograph DAVID MUNNS rice vinegar 1/8 cup (try Clearspring available at gourmet stores) sugar 1 tbsp salt 1/2 tsp
rump steak 300g, trimmed of all fat sugar 2 tsp soy sauce 2 tbsp mirin 2 tbsp (try Clearspring available at gourmet stores) garlic cloves 2, chopped sesame oil 1 tsp black pepper to taste vegetable oil 2 tsp spring onions 4, sliced lengthways sesame seeds 1 tbsp, toasted basmati rice 100g, steamed to serve n Slice the meat as thinly as possible. Mix the sugar, soy, mirin, garlic and sesame oil, add the beef and stir well. Crack over a good grind of black pepper. n Heat a wok until very hot with vegetable oil. Sear the meat for about 10-15 minutes depending upon your preferred level of doneness and then add the spring onion. Season to taste. Stir fry for another minute then add the sesame seeds. Serve with the basmati rice. n PER SERVING 343 kcals, protein 35.4g, carbs 14.7g, fat 16.3g, sat fat 3.8g, fibre 1g, salt 2.95g
Veggie maki roll Makes 6 pieces n 15 minutes n EASY Recipe SHILARNA VAZE Photograph GARETH MORGANS asparagus 1 shoot, blanched avocado 3-4 slices cucumber 3-4 slices carrot 3-4 slices, blanched wasabi paste 1/4 tsp (try Roland available at gourmet stores) mayo 1/4 tsp nori (seaweed wrapper) 1/2 a sheet pickled ginger (gari) 1 tsp Japanese soy sauce for dipping (try Kikkoman available at gourmet stores) THE RICE Japanese sushi rice 1 cup water 1 3/4 cups
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n Wash the sushi rice gently using the heel of your palm, in a swirling motion 3 times. Cook the rice in a pressure cooker. Remove and place on a flat steel plate and spread out with a flat wooden spoon, gently in a cutting motion. Add the vinegar, sugar and salt dressing, fold it in gently and let the rice cool. Leave to refrigerate. n Take a sushi mat and cover it in cling film. Place half the nori sheet, shiny side down, on the sushi mat. Dipping your fingers in a bowl of water, take the sushi rice and spread on the entire nori sheet leaving 1 cm on the top. n In the middle of the sheet, horizontally spread a line of wasabi and mayonnaise over the flattened rice. Place the asparagus, avocado, cucumber and carrot across the middle of the sheet. n Start rolling the sushi by lifting the edge closer towards you and rolling it forward, pressing it down from the front edge. Keep rolling it slowly away from you while pushing in the rice until you have pressed it tightly into the roll. n Cut the maki roll first in the middle then cut the 2 halves into 3 pieces each. Serve this with wasabi paste, pickled ginger and soy sauce. n PER SERVING 55.17 kcals, protein 1.28g, carbs 9.58g, fat 1.30g, sat fat 0.17g, fibre 0.58g, salt 0g BBC GoodFood 153
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Pho Serves 5 n 30 minutes + 2 hours for stock n MODERATELY EASY Recipe VU KANH THANH Photograph MYLES NEW onion 1 large, peeled root ginger 3cm, peeled beef shank 1.5kg, with bones star anise 2 cloves 2, whole cinnamon stick 1 fish sauce 2–3 tbsp (try Ayam available at gourmet stores) lemon 1, juiced fillet steak 150g flat rice noodles 450g, dried TO SERVE bean sprouts 100g spring onions 4, thinly sliced coriander small bunch, chopped red chillies 2, sliced and seeded lemon 1, cut into wedges n Grill the whole onion and ginger under a high heat, turning until the outside is deep brown in colour. Cut the beef shank into chunky pieces and put it together with the bones, into a large saucepan (or, if making a vegetable stock, use a selection of vegetables instead). Add the onion and ginger, star anise, cloves and cinnamon stick. n Add 3.5l water and bring to the boil. Reduce the heat and simmer gently for 2 hours, skimming off any fat. Remove the meat from the stock and cut into smaller slices. Discard the bones. Strain the stock and return with the meat to the pan. Bring back to the boil and season with salt and pepper. Add the fish sauce and lemon juice and keep at a low simmer. 154 BBC GoodFood
n Slice the raw fillet steak very thinly and set aside. Cook the noodles in a large saucepan of boiling water until just tender. Drain and rinse with fresh water and divide up into serving bowls. n Arrange the thinly sliced steak over the noodles and pour the simmering stock over the top (this will cook it through). Serve with bean sprouts, spring onions, coriander, chilli and lemon wedges on the side. Add to your own taste. n PER SERVING 873.40 kcals, protein 75.12g, carbs 81.92g, fat 25.72, sat fat 9.12g, fibre 3.14g, salt 0.8g
Spicy vegetable egg fried rice Serves 4 n 30 minutes n EASY Recipe JEMMA MORPHET Photograph WILL HEAP basmati rice 200g or leftover cooked rice 400g red chillies 1-2, deseeded and grated or very finely chopped garlic cloves 3, crushed sunflower oil 1 tbsp carrots 2, large, diced Chinese cabbage 200g, finely sliced eggs 2, lightly beaten spring onions 3, sliced peas 200g soy sauce 1 tbsp + extra for serving, if you like n If making the rice from scratch, cook it following pack instructions, then drain. Mix the chillies and garlic (in a pestle and mortar, if you have one) with a pinch of salt, to make a paste. n Heat oil in a wok or large frying pan on a medium-high heat. Add the
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carrots and stir fry for 5 minutes until tender. Add the cabbage and chilli paste and cook for 1 minute more. Tip in the cooked basmati or leftover rice and stir fry for 1 minute until piping hot. n Push the rice mixture to one side of the pan. Add the eggs to the cleared space and scramble until set. Mix in the onions, peas and soy and stir fry everything together until the peas are hot. n PER SERVING 305 kcals, protein 12g, carbs 52g, fat 7g, sat fat 2g, fibre 6g, sugar 8g, salt 0.84g
Veggie tempura Serves 6 n 25 minutes n EASY Recipe JENNIFER JOYCE Photograph DAVID MUNNS soda water 250ml, ice cold tempura flour 150g (or use plain flour) salt to taste groundnut oil for frying shiitake mushrooms 150g, sliced sweet potato 1, halved lengthways and thinly sliced aubergine 1, thinly sliced red pepper 1, cut into squares THE PONZU DIPPING SAUCE lemon 4 tbsp, juiced soy sauce 4 tbsp caster sugar 1 tbsp (try Bluebird available at gourmet stores) n Mix the sauce ingredients together. Pour the soda water into a bowl and add the flour and salt. Lightly mix until just combined. n Fill a wok or pan a third full with oil and heat. Test the heat by dropping in a piece of bread — if it sizzles and floats to the top, the oil is hot enough. Dip the NOVEMBER 2012
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vegetables in the batter and drop into the oil in batches. Fry until golden, then drain on kitchen paper. Serve with the sauce. n PER SERVING 267 kcals, protein 4.2g, carbs 32.1g, fat 14.4g, sat fat 2.7g, fibre 3g, salt 1.89g
Vietnamese veg parcels Serves 4 n 15 minutes n EASY Recipe EMMA LEWIS Photograph LIS PARSONS rice paper pancakes 100g (try Blue Dragon available at gourmet stores) thin rice noodles 50g firm tofu 100g, sliced carrot 1, finely sliced cucumber 1/2, finely sliced red bell pepper 1, deseeded and finely sliced iceberg lettuce, coriander and mint leaves to serve THE DIPPING SAUCE rice wine vinegar 2 tbsp lemon juice 1 tbsp red chilli 1, deseeded and finely sliced brown sugar 1 tsp n Soak the rice paper pancakes according to pack instructions or in boiling water for 30 seconds. Remove and cool on kitchen paper. Soak the rice noodles according to pack instructions, then drain and cut them into 2 cm strips. n Lay a rice pancake on a board and arrange some rice noodles, tofu, vegetables and herb leaves about a third of the way up, leaving a 1cm edge at the side. Fold the sides over the vegetables and then roll up lengthways to make a cigar. NOVEMBER 2012
n Mix together the ingredients for the dipping sauce and put into a bowl. To serve, arrange the rolls on a plate along with the leaves and herbs. To eat, wrap each roll in a piece of lettuce with a herb sprig and dunk into the sauce. n PER SERVING 180 kcals, protein 15g, carbs 28g, fat 2g, sat fat 0.4g, fibre 2g, sugar 5g, salt 3.3g
Prawn and coconut laksa Serves 4 n 18 minutes n EASY Recipe TIFFANY GOODALL Photograph LIS PARSONS oil 4 tbsp garlic cloves 4, crushed spring onions 4, finely chopped ginger 8 tsp, finely chopped green chillies 4, deseeded and finely chopped laksa paste 4 tbsp limes 2, juiced
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prawns 400g coconut milk 650ml chicken or vegetable stock 400ml egg noodles 400g, dried coriander a handful, chopped n Heat the oil in a large pan or wok. When hot, throw in the garlic, spring onion, ginger and green chilli. Add the laksa paste. Cook on a medium heat for 3-4 minutes, then squeeze in the lime juice. n Stir in the prawns, then add in the coconut milk and stock. Simmer gently for 5 minutes on a low heat until the prawns are pink. Meanwhile, cook the egg noodles in a pan of boiling water for 4 minutes until soft. Drain, then tip into the laksa pan. Season to taste, then serve in a bowl, topped with coriander. n PER SERVING 823 kcals, protein 33g, carbs 79g, fat 44g, sat fat 25g, fibre 3g, sugar 7g, salt 2.19g
BBC GoodFood 155
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Veg pad Thai Serves 2 n 10 minutes n EASY
Golden veggie shepherd’s pie Serves 10 n 2 hours 15 minutes n EASY
Recipe NIKHIL CHIB, Busaba Photograph VIKAS MUNIPALLE oil 4 tsp garlic cloves 1 tsp, chopped red chilli 1 tsp, chopped carrot 10g, julienned bean sprouts 5g iceberg lettuce 5g, shredded onion 10g, julienned Chinese cabbage 15g, shredded cabbage 15g, julienned bell peppers 15g, julienned rice noodles 165g, blanched Kashmiri red chilli paste 2 tbsp sugar 1 tsp salt 1 tsp chilli flakes 1 tsp peanuts 1 tbsp, crushed spring onion 1 stalk limes 2, juiced n Add oil in a wok and heat for 30 seconds. Mix garlic and fresh chilli in oil and sauté for 20 seconds. Let it mix for a minute until you can smell the garlic. Consequently add all vegetables one by one and sauté till the juices of veggies start coming out. n Thereafter add the rice noodles and the chilli paste. Mix well. Add the sugar, salt, some chilli flakes and sauté nicely for 2 minutes on high heat. Two minutes into sautéing all the mentioned ingredients, add the peanuts and spring onions, continue sautéing for 2-3 minutes. n Add the lime juice 1 minute before emptying the wok. Serve with peanuts sprinkled on top. n PER SERVING 283 kcals, protein 3.40g, carbs 37.45g, fat 13.05g, sat fat 0.95g, fibre 4.80g, salt 1.2g 156 BBC GoodFood
Photograph GARETH MORGANS butter 50g onions 2, chopped carrots 4, diced celery 1, chopped garlic cloves 4, finely chopped button mushrooms 200g, sliced bay leaves 2 thyme 1 tbsp, dried green lentils 500g red wine 100ml (optional) vegetable stock 1.7l tomato purée 3 tbsp THE TOPPING potatoes 2kg butter 85g milk 100ml Cheddar 50g, grated n To make the sauce, heat the butter in a pan, then gently fry the onions, carrots, celery and garlic for 15 minutes until soft and golden. Turn up the heat, add the mushrooms, then cook for 4 minutes more. Stir in the herbs, then add the lentils. Pour over the wine and stock — it’s important that you do not season with salt at this stage. Simmer for 40-50 minutes until the lentils are very soft. Now season to taste, take off heat, then stir in the purée. n While the lentils are cooking, tip the potatoes into a pan of water, then boil for about 15 minutes until tender. Drain well, mash with the butter and milk, then season. n To assemble the pies, divide the lentil mixture between the dishes that you are using, then top with mash. Scatter
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over the cheese and heat oven to 190°C, then bake for 30 minutes until the topping is golden. n PER SERVING 449 kcals, protein 19g, carbs 68g, fat 13g, sat fat 7g, fibre 10g, sugar 9g, salt 0.59g
Beef rendang Serves 4 n 30 minutes + simmering n MODERATELY EASY Recipe and photograph courtesy CHEF RAJDEEP KAPOOR, ITC Grand Maratha coriander powder 1 tsp turmeric powder 1/4 tsp ginger 1 inch piece, chopped garlic cloves 4, chopped shallots 4, chopped salt 1 tsp chilli pepper flakes to taste vegetable oil 2 tbsp beef 1kg, cut into shanks lemon grass 2 stalks kaffir lime leaves 4 galangal 1 inch piece coconut milk 400ml brown sugar 1 tbsp n Add the coriander, turmeric, ginger, garlic, shallots, salt and chilli flakes to a food processor and whizz until there are no clumps left and you have a smooth spice paste. You’ll need to scrape the bowl down a few times. n Add the oil to a heavy bottomed pot and heat it over medium-high heat until it simmers. Fry the beef in batches, allowing each side to brown before turning. Transfer the browned beef to a bowl and repeat with the remaining meat. NOVEMBER 2012
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n Add the lemon grass, kaffir lime leaves and galangal to the hot oil and fry until fragrant. Transfer to the bowl with the browned beef, leaving the oil in the pot. n Turn down the heat to mediumlow, and then add the spice paste. Fry, stirring constantly until it is fragrant and most of the moisture has evaporated, about 10-15 minutes. If the paste starts burning, reduce the heat and add a bit of water. Add the coconut milk and brown sugar, and then return the beef and herbs to the pot, stir to combine, then turn the heat down to medium-low and loosely cover with a lid (you want some steam to escape). Stir the rendang periodically and simmer for 3-4 hours until the meat is very tender. n Once the meat is tender and most of the liquid has evaporated (about 4 hours), remove the lid and turn up the heat. You’ll need to stir the mixture constantly to prevent it from burning, but you want to evaporate as much liquid as you can without burning the meat. At this point there should be quite a bit of oil in the pot from the meat so you’re essentially frying the sauce and concentrating the flavours. n The rendang is done when there is almost no sauce left and the meat is dark brown. Ideally let this sit overnight for the flavours to evenly distribute into the meat. During this time, the meat will turn chocolate coloured and the flavours will deepen. Serve with steamed rice. n PER SERVING 1011.25 kcals, protein 69.08g, carbs 22.33g, fat 71.75g, sat fat 35.98g, fibre 2.33g, salt 0.8g NOVEMBER 2012
Piri piri prawns Serves 6 n 15 minutes + marinating time n EASY Recipe SARA BUENFELD Photograph LIS PARSONS sunflower oil 4 tbsp garlic cloves 4, crushed red chillies 2, deseeded and chopped salt 1⁄4 tsp paprika 1⁄2 tsp prawns 18, with shells and heads on THE MINT RELISH mint leaves 50g coriander 40g green chillies 2, deseeded salt 1⁄2 tsp caster sugar 2 tsp (try Bluebird available at gourmet stores) lemon juice 2 tbsp yoghurt 300ml
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n To make the mint relish, put the herbs in a food processor along with the chillies, salt, sugar, lemon juice, 1 tbsp water and 2 tbsp yoghurt. Blend really well to make a green paste. Tip into a bowl. Spoon off 4 tbsp and mix with the rest of the yoghurt to make raita. Cover and chill both overnight. n Mix the oil with the garlic, chilli, salt and paprika, then toss in the prawns. Marinate the prawns in the fridge for up to 1 day. Cook the prawns singly or thread 3 onto skewers to make portions. Barbecue for just a few minutes each side until they turn from grey to pink. Serve with the mint relish (tiny pots per portion), warm finger bowls with lime slices, napkins and a bowl for the shells. n PER SERVING 134 kcals, protein 15g, carbs 1g, fat 8g, sat fat 1g, fibre none, sugar none, salt 0.63g BBC GoodFood 157
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n To make croutons, toss the bread in the oil and a little seasoning on a baking sheet, then bake for about 10-15 minutes until golden and crisp. To serve, put the cheese fondue on a large platter and arrange the croutons, vegetables and salamis alongside it. n PER SERVING 374 kcals, protein 22g, carbs 1g, fat 31g, sat fat 20g, fibre none, sugar none, salt 1.48g
Easy cheese fondue
Lamb and saffron biryani
Serves 6-8 n 40 minutes n EASY
Serves 4 n 1 1/2hours + marinating time n EASY
Photograph LIS PARSONS
Photograph GARETH MORGANS
cider vinegar 2 tbsp (try American Garden available at gourmet stores) cornflour 1 tsp Cheddar 250g, grated Gruyère 250g, grated crème fraîche 3 tbsp (try President available at gourmet stores) SUGGESTIONS FOR DIPPING bread 4 thick slices (such as sourdough), chopped into chunks olive oil 2 tbsp carrots 2, cut into batons peppers 2, deseeded and cut into strips celery sticks 2, thickly sliced salami 200g pack mini salamis or 1 thin salami, cut into bite-size chunks
onion 1, roughly chopped garlic cloves 2, roughly chopped ginger 3cm chunk, roughly chopped green chillies 2, roughly chopped natural yoghurt 4 tbsp lamb neck 500g, cut into chunks basmati rice 250g ghee 75g, melted chilli powder 1 tsp cardamom pods 6, deseeded and ground cinnamon stick 1, broken in half cloves 4, ground garam masala 1 tsp saffron a large pinch, soaked in 3 tbsp boiling water yoghurt to serve
n Heat oven to 200°C. Mix the vinegar with the cornflour and place in a heatproof bowl with the cheeses. Set over a pan of boiling water. Slowly melt the cheese, stirring occasionally. When it’s nearly melted, add the crème fraîche and a little black pepper, if you like. Lower the heat and keep warm. 158 BBC GoodFood
n Put the onion, garlic, ginger, chillies and yoghurt in a small food processor and whizz to a purée. Tip into a bowl, add the lamb and mix. Leave to marinate for an hour. n Rinse the rice a few times then drain well. Bring a pan of salted water to
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the boil, add the rice then bring back to simmering and cook for 5 minutes. Drain. n Heat a couple of spoonfuls of the ghee in a pan. Cook all the spices apart from the garam masala and saffron for a few minutes. Tip in the lamb and marinade and fry, turning until the lamb starts to colour a little. Add a splash of water, cover and simmer gently for 30 minutes. Stir in the garam masala. n Heat the oven to 180°C. Layer up the lamb, sauce and rice in an ovenproof casserole with a lid, drizzling with the rest of the butter as you go (try to leave the milky solids behind). Finish with a layer of rice then a final drizzle of ghee and the saffron and its liquid. Cover tightly with a sheet of foil, put on the lid then bake for 30 minutes. Serve with extra yoghurt. n PER SERVING 624 kcals, protein 24.6g, carbs 52.8g, fat 33.8g, sat fat 18g, fibre 0.5g, salt 0.5g
Rogan josh Serves 4 n 1 hour 10 minutes n EASY Recipe CAMELLIA PANJABI Recipe courtesy 50 Great Curries of India by Camellia Panjabi published by Rupa & Co (2009) for ` 795. stewing lamb or mutton chops 700g lamb bones 250g, to add flavour garlic cloves 4, chopped salt to taste Kashmiri chilli powder 2 1/2 tsp full-fat yoghurt 100ml shallots 250g, chopped ghee or oil 50ml cloves 4 black cardamoms 2, large NOVEMBER 2012
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Photograph 123RF/COKEMOMO
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green cardamoms 2 cinnamon or bay leaves 2 mace 1 blade coriander powder 1 tsp fennel powder 1 tsp ginger powder 1 tsp turmeric powder 1/4 tsp n Boil the lamb and bones with the garlic and 1/2 tsp salt in 1.2l of water in a cooking pot for 20 minutes. Remove from the heat. Remove the meat and set aside. Skim off the scum, strain and reserve the cooking liquid. n Make a paste of chilli powder by mixing with a little water. Whisk the yoghurt and set aside. n Fry shallots in the ghee or oil in a pot until lightly browned (this will take about 12 minutes). Add the cloves, cardamoms, cinnamon or bay leaves and the mace and fry for 1 minute. Then add the coriander, fennel, ginger and turmeric powders, chilli paste and 2 tbsps of water and stir continuously. After 2 minutes add the meat. Sauté for about 5 minutes. Lower the heat and add the yoghurt, stir well and sauté for a few minutes. n Add salt to taste, together with 800ml water. Cook until the meat is tender. Before serving, remove the cinnamon or bay leaves, the large cardamoms and mace if intact. n PER SERVING 468.50 kcals, protein 3.28g, carbs 40.60g, fat 31.40g, sat fat 9.35g, fibre 1.60g, salt 0.2g
NOVEMBER 2012
Moussaka Serves 6 n 1 1/2 hours n A LITTLE EFFORT Recipe LULU GRIMES Photograph PHILIP WEBB onion 1, finely chopped olive oil 3 tbsp garlic clove 1, crushed minced lamb 750g cinnamon 1 tsp white wine 100ml tomatoes 400g parsley 2 tbsp, chopped aubergines 2, sliced milk 600ml bay leaf 1 black peppercorns 4 butter 75g flour 75g potatoes 4 peeled, cooked and sliced eggs 2
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n Fry the onion in 1 tbsp oil until soft, then add the garlic. After a minute, add the mince and brown, breaking up any lumps. Add the cinnamon, wine and tomatoes, simmer for 30 minutes, bubble off any excess liquid and stir in the parsley. n Meanwhile, brown the aubergines in the remaining oil on both sides, then drain on kitchen paper. Bring the milk to a simmer with the bay leaf and peppercorns. Heat the butter in a pan, stir in the flour and gradually add the milk, stirring continually until you have a smooth sauce. Strain and season. n Heat the oven to 180°C. Layer the cooked meat sauce and aubergines in an ovenproof dish, top with the potatoes and season. Whisk the eggs into the white sauce and spoon over. Bake for 30-40 minutes until brown. n PER SERVING 609 kcals, protein 33.7g, carbs 28.5g, fat 40.3g, sat fat 17.6g, fibre 3.7g, salt 0.73g BBC GoodFood 159
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New York cheesecake Serves 12 n 1 1/2 hours + cooling n EASY Recipe SUSAN SPUNGEN Photograph PHILIP WEBB THE CRUST butter 85g, melted + extra for greasing digestive biscuits 10, whizzed into fine crumbs sugar 1 tbsp, granulated or golden caster THE CHEESECAKE FILLING (have everything at room temperature) Philadelphia cheese 900g (try Kraft available at gourmet stores) golden caster sugar 250g (try Tate and Lyle available at gourmet stores) plain flour 3 tbsp vanilla extract 1 1⁄2 tsp lemon zest 2 tsp, finely grated lemon juice 1 1⁄2 tsp eggs 3, large + 1 yolk soured cream 200ml (try Impero available at gourmet stores) THE SOURED CREAM TOPPING soured cream 220ml golden caster sugar 1 tbsp lemon juice 2 tsp n Position an oven shelf in the middle of the oven. Preheat the oven to 180°C. Line the base of a 23cm spring form cake tin with parchment paper. For the crust, melt the butter in a medium pan. Stir in the biscuit crumbs and sugar so the mixture is evenly moistened. Press the mixture into the bottom of the pan and bake for 10 minutes. Cool on a wire rack while preparing the filling. n For the filling, increase the oven temperature to 240°C. In a table top mixer fitted with the paddle 160 BBC GoodFood
attachment, beat the soft cheese at medium-low speed until creamy, about 2 minutes. With the mixer on low, gradually add the sugar, then the flour and a pinch of salt, scraping down the sides of the bowl and the paddle twice. n Swap the paddle attachment for the whisk. Continue by adding the vanilla, lemon zest and juice. Whisk in the eggs and yolk, one at a time, scraping the bowl and whisk at least twice. Stir in the soured cream until smooth. Whisk to blend, but don’t overbeat. The batter should be smooth, light and somewhat airy. n Brush the sides of the spring form tin with melted butter and put on a baking sheet. Pour in the filling — if there are any lumps, sink them using a knife — the top should be as smooth as possible. Bake for 10 minutes. Reduce oven temperature to 110°C and bake for 25 minutes more. If you gently shake the tin, the filling should have a slight wobble. Turn off the oven and open the oven door for a cheesecake that’s creamy in the centre, or leave it closed if you prefer a drier texture. Let cool in the oven for 2 hours. The cheesecake may get a slight crack on top as it cools. n Combine the soured cream, the sugar and lemon juice for the topping. Spread over the cheesecake right to the edges. Cover loosely with foil and refrigerate for at least 8 hours or overnight. n Run a round-bladed knife around the sides of the tin to loosen any stuck edges. Unlock the side, slide the cheesecake off the bottom of the tin onto a plate, then slide the parchment paper out from underneath. n PER SLICE 549 kcals, protein 11g, carbs 37g, fat 41g, sat fat 24g, fibre 1g, added sugar 25g, salt 1.04g
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Cheese soufflé Serves 4 n 30 minutes n MODERATELY EASY Recipe MANU CHANDRA, Olive Beach Photograph MYLES NEW water 1 cup Cheddar cheese 65g, grated paprika 1 tsp flour 2 tbsp salt 1 tsp egg whites 2 sugar 1/2 tsp lemon juice 1 tsp TO COAT THE RAMEKIN butter 2 tbsp cheddar cheese 30g, grated n Preheat the oven to 250°C. Evenly coat the ramekins with butter, moving upwards and then coat with the Cheddar. In a pot, bring water, Cheddar and paprika to a boil, stirring continuously using a whisk. Add flour and after cooking for 5 minutes, strain it using a fine sieve and reserve it. n In a small mixing bowl, add egg whites, sugar, salt and lemon juice and heat it on a double boiler until the sugar melts or is slightly warm when touched. Now beat the egg whites to medium peak using a hand mixer (this usually takes 1-2 minutes). Fold the mixture into the cheddar mixture in 3 additions. n The mixture at this time should be a bit stiff. Pour it into the prepared ramekins, reduce the temperature of the oven to 225°C and bake it for about 8-10 minutes. Serve it immediately. n PER SERVING 165.75 kcals, protein 7.73g, carbs 3.20g, fat 13.73g, sat fat 8.60g, fibre 0.25g, salt 0.7g
NOVEMBER 2012
PROMOTION
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Popcorn just got healthier
Monini Olive Oil now in India!
M
onini olive oil is an authentic, premium Italian brand, produced in Spoleto-Umbria - “The Green Heart of Italy”. Monini has launched two variants of olive oil in the Indian market. Monini Classico Extra Virgin Olive Oil is perfect for all dressings and garnishings, cooked vegetables, soups, salads and bruschetta bread. It is also suitable for cooking. Monini Anfora Pure Olive Oil is ideal for daily cooking and deep frying. It is also suitable for a body massage. Monini is sharing love
and passion for extra virgin olive oil, offering a product with superior quality and unique taste, constant through time, being sure that good things are the only ones to stand and to stay.
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s popcorn your partner in crime whenever you watch a movie or feel those hunger pangs? There’s now one more reason for you to reach out for that bowl. A new study released earlier this year shows that popcorn contains more antioxidants than vegetables and fruits, if it does not have butter, oil or salt. The study states that popcorn, which is 100 percent whole grain, contains healthy antioxidant substances (known as polyphenols) than most fruits and vegetables. Making this wonder snack at home just got easier with American Garden’s Microwave Popcorn. Choose from four yummy flavours - Natural, Hot and Spicy, Cheese and Extra Butter, pop a pack into the
microwave and enjoy hot, crunchy popcorn in minutes! This whole grain delight also packs a low calorie, nutritional punch. One serving of American Garden’s unbuttered popcorn has just 55 calories and 133 calories when lightly buttered. So go ahead and grab that popcorn!
Your ideal cooking partner
R
efined peanut oil, like all processed vegetable oils, has been refined, bleached and deodorised. This process removes the allergic protein component of the oil, making it non-allergenic. Major US fast-food chains mainly use refined peanut oil. The packaging can be confusing at times as oils are sometimes blended. To maximise the benefits of peanut oil for your chicken fry, look for it as the only ingredient, or for “100% peanut oil” on the packaging. Several features make RRO PRIMIO Refined Groundnut oil different from the rest. PRIMIO is crystal clear, absolutely odourless, obtained by refining top quality groundnut oil. Groundnut oil has a high ratio of Monounsaturated Fatty Acids (MUFA). MUFA based cooking oils are naturally stable, even at high temperatures and have a high smoking point. Hence, they are excellent for all kinds of cuisines. Such oils also have great preservation properties, hence food prepared in PRIMIO stays fresh longer.
Refined groundnut oil does not absorb or transfer flavours from food during the cooking process. Thus it is considered to be the finest multi-purpose cooking medium suitable for all types of cuisines. It is extremely robust and produces fewer flavour defects with long-term use as compared to many other oils. Groundnut oil is also considered superior to make salad oil or mayonnaise because of its ability to hold solids in suspension for a longer time. PRIMIO Refined Groundnut oil can also be conveniently used to sauté, pan fry, sear, deep fry, stir-fry, grill, broil, bake as well as cook delicious food dishes. MUFA based oils like groundnut oil are also beneficial in lowering LDL (bad cholesterol), which helps lower risk of coronary heart disease.
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Anniversary special global classics
anniversary special global classics
WorldMags.net Tiramisu
Serves 8 n 20 minutes + refrigeration n MODERATELY EASY Recipe SHAHEEN PEERBHAI Photograph PRATEEKSH MEHRA sugar 90g eggs 4, separated mascarpone cheese 500g coffee 2 cups, strongly brewed Kahlua 2tbsp (optional) Savoiardi biscuits (lady fingers) 250g cocoa powder handful, to serve chocolate to serve, grated n Beat 45g sugar with the egg yolks until thick and creamy. Set aside. Whip the mascarpone cheese. Add the beaten egg yolks to it and mix until fully incorporated. n In another bowl, whip the egg whites. Whip them until soft peaks form. Then begin adding the remaining 45g of sugar slowly until the egg whites are stiff and shiny. n Gently fold the egg whites into the mascarpone and egg mixture. n Mix together 2 cups of strongly brewed coffee and Kahlua (if using) to use as the soaking syrup for the sponge fingers. Fill a shallow dish or baking pan with the coffee solution. Dip the lady fingers or Savoiardi biscuits for a few seconds on each side until soft and then dust them with cocoa powder. n To assemble the tiramisu, place the soaked biscuits on the bottom of a serving glass, followed by a layer of the chiiled mascarpone cream. Flatten as you go. Continue in the same fashion until you have filled up your glass. Finally, sprinkle the tiramisu with cocoa powder and grated chocolate. Let this set in the refrigerator for at least 2 hours. n PER SERVING 511 kcals, protein 7.3g, carbs 27.9g, fat 36.1g, sat fat 18.5g, fibre 0.9g
162 BBC GoodFood
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eat out
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Expert restaurant picks for different budgets, plus the best channa bhatura in the capital IN THIS ISSUE
Photograph CHHANDAK PRADHAN
T Dining choices for a range of budgets, p 172 T Pro vs Punter at New Delhi’s European restaurant Tres, p 184 T Why you should visit Sita Ram Diwan Chand in Delhi, p 186
Shaun Kenworthy relishes a Bengali meal at Kewpie's Kitchen in Kolkata, p 176
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Eat out for `5,000,`2,500 `1,000 or WorldMags.net
`500
Our panel of culinary experts helps you find the best restaurant bang for your buck, whatever your wallet size
Rocky Mohan, New Delhi
Delicious Tandoori Broccoli at Monsoon
Rocky Mohan is the executive director of the Mohan Meakin group of industries and co-founder of the Delhi Gourmet Club `500
GOVINDA AT ISKCON
Govinda is iconic in its ability to deliver truly sattvik food. The smell of desi ghee permeates the air in this very comfortable space, adorned with a Krishna mural in the background. Eating at Govinda is a vegetarian’s delight. The no-onion, no-garlic buffets available for both lunch and dinner have a number of takers and the dishes change regularly. The special Satvik Falahar offered during auspicious occasions like Navratri and Ekadashi has a large fan following. The desserts are exceptional, as one would expect from a restaurant that follows the tradition of Chappan Bhog. Iskcon Temple Complex, Main Road, East of Kailash, New Delhi. Tel: +91 11 26280069/ 26214820
`1,000
MAMAGOTO
This popular restaurant with a cheerful atmosphere and eclectic décor offers excellent Asian cuisine. The meal-in-a-bowl dishes 172 BBC GoodFood
and appetisers such as Rock Shrimp Tempura, corn cakes and crispy spring rolls make for excellent starters. The coal-red Robata Grill Eggplant is impressive while the Sticky Rice with tofu, mushroom and ginger cooked in fragrant hot basil and south-east Asian herbs is delectable. The signature Sichuan Pepper Prawns on Udon Noodles makes Mamagoto a must visit. The menu has a decent range of veggie options too. 53, 1st Floor, Middle Lane, Khan Market, New Delhi. Tel: +91 11 45166060 (with outlets at City Centre in Gurgaon and Saket)
`2,500
MONSOON AT LE MERIDIEN
For close to three years, this restaurant has been serving consistently delectable food to New Delhi residents. The menu blends traditional inuences with avant garde ones. The Spiced Scallops with Polenta made with sun-dried tomatoes offer an explosion of avour and texture. The Tandoori Mustard Sole with Shrimp Upma and Sea Bass
* All prices given for a meal for two people.
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with Madras Curry take you back to the days of the Raj. Since the hotel is part of the Starwood chain, you can also nosh on signature dishes created by super chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten. The menu offers such variety that you want to keep going back to Monsoon. It also boasts a lovely collection of ne wines that complements the cuisine. Le Meridien, 8, Windsor Place, Connaught Place, New Delhi. Tel: +91 11 23710101/ 23460143 NOVEMBER 2012
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eat out restaurant spy
Rocky Mohan with Chef Vikramjit Roy at Wasabi by Morimoto
WASABI BY MORIMOTO AT TAJ MANSINGH
Photograph ANIL CHAWLA
`5,000
‘Iron Chef’ Masaharu Morimoto has done a fantastic job of guiding Chef Vikramjit Roy in the art of preparing and presenting delectable Japanese ‘fusion’ cuisine. The list of offerings at this very successful restaurant is virtually endless. The impressive repertoire of specials includes Morimoto Sashimi and White Fish Carpaccio and appetisers such as Rock Shrimp Tempura. The sushi and sashimi are denite must tries. The restaurant also offers an Omakase menu, whereby you allow the chef to dazzle you with his innovative creations. Vegetarians will be thrilled as almost 50 per cent of the menu is meat-free. The Taj Mahal Hotel, 1, Mansingh Road, New Delhi. Tel: +91 11 66513585/4
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WorldMags.net `5,000 KARAVALLI
Kripal Amanna, Bengaluru
Kripal Amanna is the publisher and managing editor of Food Lovers magazine and founder of a Bengaluru-based media and food company Ebony’s Blonde Lasagne
A disclaimer at the outset: It is possible to have a sumptuous meal for two here for far less than ` 5,000, but when you’re dining at an establishment that can easily stake a claim to offering the country’s best western coastal cuisine, you’d want to go the whole hog. That’s why my pick is the restaurant’s top-of-the-line seafood set menu. Karavalli owes much of its success to its menu philosophy, which evolved as a result of its chefs travelling extensively down the west coast seeking the most authentic recipes. It is also distinguished by the single-minded adherence to tradition, in terms of ingredients, practises, utensils and implements. For instance, all masalas are ground using traditional stone grinders and signature curries are still made in clay pots on wooden stoves. All this attention to detail resonates in the avour of each dish on the menu. Tiger prawns roast, karimeen pollichathu, kane kaidina, denji pulimunchi, meen vevichethu… the list goes on. There’s much on offer for vegetarians too and there’s a nifty tiffin meal option as well. The Gateway Hotel, 66, Residency Road, Bengaluru. Tel: +91 80 66604545 Grilled White Bekti with Lentils at Caperberry
`1,000
EBONY
There’s something for everyone at this rooftop restaurant that offers a variety of cuisines. From excellent Parsi cuisine and Northwest Frontier favourites to recipes pinched from Mudaliar kitchens, Ebony traverses a lot of ground. Favourites include the Parmesan-crusted chicken, paneer rubaiyat, dhansak, sali boti, patra ni machi and the fantastic Mudaliar-style pepper prawns. Sadly, there’s no pork on the menu anymore but they will still oblige regulars with delightful spare ribs and baconwrapped prawns. The portions are adequate and conducive to sharing. The Penthouse Floors of Barton Centre, 84, M G Road, Bengaluru. Tel: +91 80 41783344/ 45/ 46. 174 BBC GoodFood
`500
MAVALLI TIFFIN ROOM
Eating at this iconic tiffin room is part of a daily ritual for many old Bengaluruans. Be it for the rice idlis served with a dollop of homemade butter, crisp masala dosa, khara baath, kesari baath, or the steamy hot coffee, a blend of Plantation A and Peaberry beans, roasted and ground afresh every day. But the pièce de résistance here is the ‘full meal’, served by a procession of waiters who dish out tasty, South Canara fare like poori-saagu, vada, bisibele baath, pulao, payasam and badam halwa with generous dollops of desi ghee. At under ` 400 for a meal for two, this institution is a must visit. 14, Lalbagh Road, Bengaluru. Tel: +91 80 22230471.
`2,500
CAPERBERRY
This modern European restaurant is nothing less than a theatre of avours and textures, incorporating classic and modern culinary styles. While the tasting menus feature exquisite and indulgent creations like Porcini Parfait, Saffron Explosion Ravioli and New Age Tiramisu, it is quite easily possible to dine here without breaking the bank. My favourite tapas from the à la carte menu include Crispy Spinach, Almond and Filo Rolls, Prawn Al Ajillo and the roasted lamb chops. Meat lovers will revel in the sous vide selection that includes a gorgeous red wine-braised lamb shank and a meltingly tender Brazilian pork belly cooked for over 48 hours. For the best value, nothing beats their weekday prix xe threecourse lunch. 48/1, The Estate, Dickenson Road, Bengaluru. Tel: +91 80 25594567.
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NOVEMBER 2012
Photograph NITHIN SAGI
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Kripal Amanna dives into the seafood at Karavalli
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Shaun Kenworthy, Kolkata Shaun Kenworthy is a Kolkata-based chef and restaurant consultant Zen’s Thai Crispy Glass Noodle Salad with Vegetables
Bistro by the Park’s stylish interiors
`2,500
ZEN, THE PARK
The Park hotel in Kolkata may be best known for its noisy bars and night clubs but Zen stays true to its name. You feel a sense of serenity as soon as you open the solid oak doors of the restaurant and walk down the narrow, candlelit passage. The restaurant specialises in authentic Thai and Japanese food but has also gathered acclaim for its vegetarian fusion fare. Apart from Thai favourites like tom yum, tom kha and som tam, you can also expect to nd a bit of Indo-Thai and Thaipanese fusion thrown in for good measure. I go there for the great sushi and sashimi, which could contend with the best in the city. The restaurant has fresh salmon and tuna own in thrice a week. Wash all of this down with a couple of Japanese Bloody Marys with a hint of wasabi and maybe a matcha tea tiramisu for a sweet touch. You can even enjoy a small bottle of sake and still stay within the ` 5,000 budget. The Park, 17, Park Street, Kolkata. Tel: +91 33 40049000/ 22499000 176 BBC GoodFood
`1,000
KEWPIE’S KITCHEN
Down a little lane, located in a 150-year-old red and white home, Kewpie’s serves hearty, wholesome, home-cooked Bengali food. The restaurant’s patron, Rakhi Purnima Dasgupta, hails from an illustrious Bengali foodie family. Her mother Minakshie Dasgupta’s book The Bengal Cookbook is considered one of the denitive tomes on Bengali cooking. There is a huge selection of items to choose from. I recommend a thala, which offers a taste of lots of things. The basic platter includes Gobindo Bhog rice with desi ghee, a couple of fresh luchi or deep-fried, Bengali-style puris, alur dom, chana dal and any one kind of bhaja or batter-fried vegetable pakoda. You also get your pick of two non-vegetarian items that could include dab chingri or prawns cooked in coconut milk, kosha mangsho or sautéed mutton and smoked boneless hilsa, among other things. The basic platter also includes rich mishti doi, a little piece of sandesh and mishti paan. 2, Elgin Lane, Kolkata. Tel: +91 33 24861600/ 24869929
Located just off the bustle of the legendary Park Street, Bistro by the Park is a recent entrant to the Kolkata restaurant scene. It is the modern, rebranded avatar of a popular hangout set up in the ’60s, known as Shehnaz. Like most modern bistros, you can browse through the menu on an iPad. It offers a good selection of beers, spirits and a short wine list with a few Indian and imported wines. I love the simple salads, such as the Green Apple, Rocket, Feta and Walnut salad, tossed in sundried tomato dressing. The chargrilled meats, sh, seafood and vegetables are denitely worth trying and the pizzas and pastas are among the best in the city. Their Burmese Khowsuey is spot on as is the Chargrilled Bekti with Slow Roasted Vegetables and Cilantro Caper Sauce. Finish your meal with Blueberry Cheesecake and Chocolate Mud Pudding. Lunch or dinner for two, including a bottle of domestic wine, should be under ` 2,500. 2 A, Middleton Row, Kolkata. Tel: + 91 33 66064206
`500
JIMMY’S KITCHEN
For anyone visiting the New Market area of the city, lunch at Jimmy’s is a treat. Although there are other branches of the restaurant in Kolkata, I like the one in New Market the best. You’ll nd Jimmy’s behind a small doorway on the main street with a Chinese hair salon next door. This unpretentious eatery is not quite as Chindian as most of the Chinese restaurants in the city. Despite the presence of the usual suspects such as chilli chicken and Manchurian, you also nd delights such as chilli sh, chicken in oyster sauce and thick-cut chilli chips. I go there for a complete porkfest, which usually includes the special fried rice, the best I’ve had in India. It has shrimps, chicken and pork, topped off with a crispy wok-fried egg. I love the delicious pork char sui at lunch and the pork in green capsicum and black bean sauce with just the right hint of chilli. Lunch for two, including two mains and a rice or noodle dish is a steal at ` 500. 36F, Topsia Road, E M Bypass, Kolkata. Tel: +91 33 23455440 (with another outlet at AJC Bose Road)
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NOVEMBER 2012
Photograph CHHANDAK PRADHAN
`5,000
BISTRO BY THE PARK
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Shaun Kenworthy wrestles with a crab at Kewpie’s Kitchen
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Sona Bahadur, Mumbai
Sona Bahadur is the editor of BBC Good Food India. When she is not in office, she is checking out restaurants big and small The earthy Funghi alla Giovanni
Scallop Shumai at Yauatcha
Yauatcha’s Pei Fong Tong Soft Shell Crab
`2,500
DON GIOVANNI
Unlike Elizabeth Gilbert, I have yet to have my Margherita moment in Napoli. Until I do, I’m happy to romance my pizza right here in Mumbai. The thin-crust, artisanal Margherita at Don Giovanni is made the old-fashioned way—with San Marzano tomatoes, mozzarella and freshly plucked basil (from Giovanni’s terrace garden)— in a wood-red brick oven. This unashamedly Italian restaurant in Juhu is one of those rare places that offers a taste of la cucina vera—the true taste of Italy. Giovanni remains loyal to his Italian roots and his love and attention to detail is evident everywhere. I recommend a glass of white with the Ravioli di Magro, hand-made ravioli tossed in butter and sage. Giovanni also serves iconic tiramisu with an interesting local touch—it is made with paneer instead of mascarpone. The end result is a dessert so dreamy and light, it’s like biting into sweet air. Le Blanc, opposite J W Marriott, Juhu Tara Road, Juhu, Mumbai. Tel: +91 22 67426770 178 BBC GoodFood
`500
HIGHWAY GOMANTAK
I am driven to Highway Gomantak by a one-point agenda. The Potnis family, its owners, do the best Bombil Fry in town. The secret—while it is customary to drain water from bombils by placing weight over them to make them crisp, soft Bombil Fry is the norm at HG. The baby Bombil served here in the month of Shravan is to die for. The Bandra East eatery is famed for its authentic Hindu Goan (as distinct from Malwani) sh curries, fries and other sh preparations like dabdabit (thick gravy), sukke and gravy items that have been part of Saraswat cuisine for hundreds of years. The array of seafood, sourced fresh everyday from the docks, is eye popping. Choose between the red, green and yellow curries, each with a different base. My pick is the yellow surmai one. Light and tangy despite its coconut base, this dish brings a bit of sunshine to my plate. It will to yours, too. 44/2179, Gandhi Nagar, Service Road, Bandra (E), Mumbai. Tel: +91 22 26409692/ 26453120
`5,000
YAUATCHA
Yauatcha is a swanky place with fantastic food. To me it is Mumbai’s quintessential dim sum restaurant. (Sorry, Royal China.) The Crispy Prawn Cheung Fun is a cracker. It’s worth visiting for this one dish alone. The memory of my rst bite—the textural epiphany as the soft at noodle covering gave way to the crispness of the prawn tempura within—will follow me to my grave. Also recommended are the Edamame and Truffle dumplings and Pan-fried Turnip Cake with Fried Shrimp. For mains, try the Stir-Fry Lobster with XO sauce or the Pei Fong Tong soft shell crab. The macarons at Yauatcha’s patisserie are world class. But to me there is no better way to end your lavish meal than with the amboyant Raspberry Delice where raspberries, dark chocolate and cream take centre stage. Wicked. Raheja Towers, Bandra Kurla Complex, Bandra (E), Mumbai. Tel: +91 22 26448888
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NOVEMBER 2012
Sona Bahadur bites into a tartine at Yoga House
Photograph RITAM BANERJEE
`1,000
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THE YOGA HOUSE
Some would call The Yoga House pretentious but I love this little oasis of serenity in the heart of Bandra. I visit it as much for the soulful ambience as for its imaginativelyconceived sattvik menu centred on whole grain cereals, seeds, nuts, and local, seasonal fruits and vegetables. The popular Quinoa Burger is worth a try but my favourite is the Traveller’s Plate, an assortment of tartines: cheddar (Somerset Tartine), feta (Mykonos Tartine) and mozzarella (Capri Tartine) made with 10-grain bread. The cheesy nibbles are a nice touch—and so much more forgiving than a whole sandwich. Perfect with Pink Juice, a refreshing combo of rose water, pomegranate and watermelon. At ` 1,000 for two, The Yoga House is a bit steep but even the most tamsik soul will emerge calmer. Beg for a table by the window. 53, Chimbai Road, Behind St Andrews Church, Off Hill Road, Bandra (W), Mumbai. Tel: +91 22 65545001
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Odette Mascarenhas, Goa
Honey Glazed Pot Roast Pork Spare Ribs at Wok & Roll
Odette Mascarenhas is an award-winning author, restaurant critic and columnist based in Goa. She is the co-founder of the Goan Culinary Club A refreshing Tomato and Mozzarella Salad from Da Luigi
GEORGE BAR AND RESTAURANT `500
Way back in 1956, Joao Camilo Jorge set up this modest bar and restaurant at the foot of the Immaculate Conception Church in Panjim. The most popular dishes were the crumbfried pork chops or beef croquettes. Very little has changed since then. The crumb-fried pork chops and the beef croquettes are still the hottestselling items. Old favourites include the crumb-fried mussels and the home-style beef bone broth with macaroni. My favourites are the sorpotel and the sausage pulao — lemon yellow rice embedded with spicy sausages. Church Square, Althino, Panaji. Tel: +91 832 2426820 180 BBC GoodFood
`5,000
DA LUIGI AT PARK HYATT
With a large selection of pizzas and pastas, Da Luigi is reminiscent of a neighbourhood Italian trattoria. Yet it offers a very upmarket dining experience. Try the Pizza Della Casa topped with tomato, mozzarella, goat’s cheese, roasted garlic, sundried tomatoes and basil pesto. Also try the Sage-scented Pork Belly with lentil, bacon and sautéed potatoes and nish your meal with the standout Tiramisu or the Rosemary Panna Cotta. The Sunday lunches offer maximum value, with a variety of antipastos, mains, pizzas and pastas. Park Hyatt Goa Resort and Spa, Arrosim Beach, South Goa. Tel: +91 832 2721234
`1,000
WOK & ROLL
`2,500
A REVERIE
Situated near an underground spring, surrounded by lush greenery and chirping birds, Wok & Roll has no dearth of natural beauty. The menu is well thought out and doesn’t include the run-of-the-mill dishes that populate most Pan Asian menus. For starters, try the honey-glazed Pot Roast Pork Ribs served with ginger plum sauce and the Vietnamese Summer Rolls, fresh rice paper rolls stuffed with crunchy juliennes of cucumber, carrots, silken tofu and glass noodles, served with nuoc cham dipping sauce. For mains, the Cambodian-style Beef Loc Lac with a tangy, peppery dipping sauce called tuk meric is noteworthy. The Northern Khao Soi, a close cousin of the Burmese Khow Suey, is my favourite. It has all the necessary accompaniments (deep-fried crispy noodles, boiled egg noodles, shallots, lime, green chillies, crispy fried garlic, golden fried onions, and sweet soya sauce) to be mixed with a chicken curry with coconut milk. Vegans can be happy here too: all the curries on the menu can be tossed with exotic vegetables as well. Sinquerim, Candolim, Bardez, Goa. Tel: +91 9049022348
This beautiful, multi-level restaurant is a place for culinary celebration. It offers an eclectic mix of international cuisines. You can either drop in for tapas and a drink, or relax in the lounge while your dinner is being prepared. The Desi Caipirinha made with sugarcane juice and a blend of dark and gold rum is my pick from the cocktails. Among the tapas, the prawns poached in dashi or Japanese stock and the warm bruschetta slathered with tomato compote and layered with chorizo or homepickled sundried tomatoes, and topped with nigella seeds, are the most popular. Other highlights on the creatively conceptualised menu include the Smoked Fillet Beef Carpaccio, which comes with a scoop of mustard ice cream and the Himalayan trout wrapped in banana leaves and steamed with Thai avours such as lemongrass, bird’s eye chillies, palm sugar and sh sauce. Holiday Street, Bardez, Calangute, Goa. Tel: +91 9823505550
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NOVEMBER 2012
Photograph SEPHI BERGERSON
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Odette Mascarenhas enjoys a meal at Wok & Roll
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Does your average diner agree with what the restaurant professionals think? BBC Good Food reader Arpit Chundawat and food writer Anoothi Vishal review European restaurant Tres in New Delhi and come away with conflicting reviews THE PRO
Anoothi Vishal is a Delhi-based freelance food writer and critic. She is also actively involved in curating various regional Indian food festivals.
TRES Located in the heart of New Delhi’s busy Lodhi Market, the four-month old Tres offers authentic European cuisine. The two-page menu comprises a range of salads, appetisers, grills, veg and non-veg platters and dessert. Replete with a well-stocked bar, Tres stirs up some interesting cocktails and mocktails. n Tres, 17, Main Market, Lodhi Colony, Lodhi Road, New Delhi. Tel: +91 11 24625520 Daily 12 pm – 12 am. Average spend for two: ` 2,000. Chundawat and Vishal visited separately and neither informed the restaurant before the meal that they were there to review it. Pushy table turning? No. Regular water offered? Yes. Veggie options? An ample range.
184 BBC GoodFood
THE PUNTER
FIRST IMPRESSIONS
THE SERVICE
First impressions can often get formed even before you step into a space. That’s precisely what happens with Tres. I call on a Monday, seeking a reservation for that evening and am surprised to learn that it’s a full house. “It’s a small restaurant,” the person at the other end of the telephone qualifies apologetically, “just 40-50 seats, including the bar stools.” There is no hint of pompousness or gloating in the voice. I am impressed. It isn’t easy to fill up a small restaurant, even in Delhi, twice over on a weekday night. The next evening when we do arrive for dinner, we are ushered in by the cheerful staff and charmed by the obvious warmth of the establishment, which is bustling even on a Tuesday evening.
The service is warm and courteous. Julia Carmen de Sa, the chef, stops by each table, chatting with the guests. My six-year-old decides to begin with dessert, Apple Tart with Ice Cream, and de Sa coos over this “wonderful guest”, inviting my daughter to peep into the kitchen “if (she) gets bored”. This is exactly how a chefrun place should be— intimate and personal. But our main dishes take their time arriving, something the restaurant should work on.
As I enter the restaurant, I see several dining tables lined up in one corner with a lamp casting a cosy glow over the scene. This adds a subtle sense of majesty to the restaurant. The well-groomed waitstaff walk in and out of the kitchen with a smile on their faces.
The seating in any restaurant is important to me and the seats here are very comfortable. We are lucky to be served by two very good waiters who are not only polite but observant too, ensuring that our plates are changed promptly after each course.
Arpit Chundawat works as the Marketing Head at Vintage Rides Private Limited, an Indo-French motorcycle tour operating company. He is an avid traveller and loves sketching and playing sports.
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Photographs TARUN JUSTIN
THE RESTAURANT
NOVEMBER 2012
eat out restaurant reviews
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Homemade Nougat Ice Cream with Chocolate Profiteroles
The classy interiors of Tres
Baked Crepe Caprese with Chestnuts and Courgettes
THE FOOD
THE VERDICT
THE BILL
The menu is divided into small and big plates. We order the Roasted Goat Cheese and Beetroot Salad with apple walnut dressing. It is delicious, the flavours crisp and blending well. In a twist on a regular salad, the cheese here is spread over toasted, perfectly crisp olive bread offering a delicious contrast of textures and a satisfying plate of carb-enhanced salad. It is a winner and the best in town. We also have the Chilli King Prawns; they are hot with no attempt to tame the chilli but I would argue with the ‘king’ tag. Also, even for a small plate, the portion is just a wee bit too small. The Oven Roasted Sea Bass we order as a main is the star of the night. It comes topped with a mushroom crust on a bed of spinach. The fish is perfectly cooked, falling apart at the touch of a fork. Once again, we have a dish cleanly constructed, offering contrasting textures and balanced flavours on the same plate. The Apple Tart that my daughter orders is also superb; the golden apple nicely caramelised, the pastry light, with enough attention to plating.
A welcome addition to smart, standalone, chef-driven restaurants. I will certainly be visiting again.
Vishal’s bill for two, including one salad, one small plate, one main and one dessert was ` 1,797 excluding taxes.
The menu at Tres offers just enough dishes; it is small enough to make it easy to decide what to eat, but has enough options to make a good choice. We start with a Non-Veg Platter: the chef’s selection of seafood and meat. The combination of pork, chicken and prawns feels unusual but the three dishes actually go very well together. The Pork Sausages are slightly spicy and accompanied by braised spring onions. The Chicken Croquettes are quite crispy on the outside but nearly melted from the inside. The prawns are cooked in olive oil with diced vegetables. We also order a Cardamom Cooler and an Italian white wine that perfectly accompanies the sea food. We move on to the main course — Sautéed Tiger Prawns. They are cooked just right and come in perfectly-sized portions. The prawns are accompanied by fettuccine and well-seasoned vegetables. The Olive Oil Poached Chicken Leg braised with onions, baby potatoes and seasonal greens tastes amazing. The meat is tender with a light smoky taste. We order a sugarless Lemon Yoghurt Mousse for dessert. The mousse has a delicate texture, but the mango and ginger sauce served with it are poorly plated and the portions so measly that we can barely taste them.
Tres is a great place for a somewhat expensive, casual meal. It offers a diverse choice of food and I appreciate the professionalism of the staff. The only negatives are the average ambience and décor, and the bad acoustics that make the place very noisy.
NOVEMBER 2012
FOOD: 8.5/10 ATMOSPHERE: 8/10 SERVICE: 7.5/10 TOTAL: 24/30 Go again? Yes of course!
Chundawat’s bill for two, including one non-alcoholic beverage, one wine, one starter, two large plates and one dessert was ` 3,095 excluding taxes.
FOOD: 6/10 ATMOSPHERE: 5/10 SERVICE: 9/10
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TOTAL: 20/30 Go again? Definitely. The impressive wine list calls for another visit. BBC GoodFood 185
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Spiced out Sita Ram Diwan Chand Tucked away in Paharganj, SRDC serves up the meanest plate of channa bhatura in the capital
O
Words and photographs ANOOP NEGI
ld Delhi is famous for its street food. The Paranthe Wali Galli, the kebabs around Jama Masjid plus the kulfis, samosas, kachoris and a hundred other varieties of savouries and sweets can be found all over this district. There is a daily influx of buyers and traders from North India and a steady stream of food enthusiasts who throng the area. While earlier only die-hard food enthusiasts would venture into the old city, with the advent of the metro, now anyone can journey here in minutes. One of the cheapest and most delicious dishes available here is channa bhatura, a dish that can be easily consumed for breakfast, lunch and dinner. The chickpeas make the base of the thick gravy, after being suitably paired with a host of Indian spices. The bhatura is deep-fried fluffy bread that is consumed hot, right off the stove. Delhi is flush with eateries specialising in channa bhatura. There are roadside shacks and there are more fancy, middle-class restaurants. But if you were to ask around for the best channa bhatura in town, one name that will come up consistently — Sita Ram Diwan Chand (SRDC). Tucked away in Paharganj, SRDC dates back to the time of India’s partition. An enterprising Diwan Chand established his business selling channa bhatura, in 1947. There was no shop then, just a pushcart to carry the food around the streets. Diwan Chand traversed the hot plains of Punjab (present-day Pakistan) like countless others and reached the refugee camps teeming
186 BBC GoodFood
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NOVEMBER 2012
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with thousands of other hapless citizens trying to eke out a new life in the capital. Diwan Chand was joined in his small business by his son Sita Ram and together they continued selling their speciality on the streets of Paharganj. The business prospered and in 1977, they finally opened a shop, acquiring a business address under the name of Sita Ram Diwan Chand. They moved to much larger premises in 2010, just a few shops down from the old restaurant. Today, Pran Kohli, Sita Ram’s son, manages the place and handles the queues of hungry customers during rush hour. The lines are orderly and efficient. First, the channa and pickles are served in an aluminum foil paper tray. You then move to the next counter to collect the bhatura. The hall has fixed tables with standing room for the diners. There is a bay of electric coolers for cold water and at the other end lies the kitchen. So what sets this place apart from countless others? The answer lies in the channa that has been prepared the same way as it was cooked 60 years ago by Pran Kohli’s grandfather. Some customers vouch for the fact that it still tastes the same. A recipe for the gravy would traditionally require the chickpeas to be soaked and boiled, then mixed with a variety of spices. A fairly simple recipe to follow but like all things superlative, it is the quality of the ingredients, the consistency and value for money that make customers return again and again to SRDC. The channa at SRDC is paired with a unique semi-dry potato side dish. You get a helping of two gravies and they provide a wonderful counterpoint of flavours and textures NOVEMBER 2012
Channa bhatura, the pièce de resistance at Sita Ram Diwan Chand Right: Pran Kohli (extreme left), the current owner, with two customers
WHAT WE LIKE CHANNA BHATURA
The channa bhatura obviously, especially the fact that one plate costs ` 35 and is more than enough for one person.
to the bhatura. Depending on the season, there is a liberal sprinkling of pickled mangoes and chillies, carrots or gooseberries served alongside. The pickles are just right. Not too sharp to kill your taste buds but just enough to provide a heady shake of sensory rejuvenation. Also, the bhaturas here are distinct in their composition and presentation. Bhaturas elsewhere are simply made of softened wheat flour fried into fluffy roundness in hot oil. What makes the ones at SRDC unique is the addition of grated cottage cheese, coriander leaves, cumin seeds and black pepper, used as a stuffing for the bhatura. The turnover at SRDC is enormous, and to cater to the large clientele on a daily basis, the thousands of bhaturas that get consumed every day are rolled and fried separately in their kitchen next door. Thereafter, they are heated in a cast iron pan just before being served. You can eat your heart out at the eatery or return with the whole meal packaged neatly for transportation and storage. In fact, a large chunk
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of the daily sales comprises of such packed plates of channa bhatura. It is a ritual for customers to carry home large packs for family and friends.
Address: Sita Ram Diwan Chand 2243, Chuna Mandi Paharganj, Delhi Tel: +91 11 23587380 BBC GoodFood 187
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WIN A FREE LUXURY TRIP TO JAISALMER! Get pampered in royal style at Suryagarh, Jaisalmer’s ultra-luxe heritage hotel
H WORT
` 1.5
LAKH
H
ere’s your can’t-miss chance to win a three-night-and-four-day luxury stay at Suryagarh, a stunning boutique hotel that pays tribute to Jaisalmer’s royal heritage. With grand architecture inspired by the palaces of Rajasthan, Suryagarh is the perfect blend of contemporary and medieval. Whether you eat in the hotel or in the desert, dining here is a superlative experience. Chefs use ancient techniques, showcase food with distinctive flavours and fire up their charcoal grills to present dishes that are inimitably Rajputana. Rejuvenate your senses at the spa. And if you are feeling adventurous, enjoy dune bashing and a camel safari. See below for details.
HOW TO ENTER To win this prize, just fill in your details on the entry form and send it to BBC Good Food India, Worldwide Media Private Ltd, The Times of India building, 4th Floor, Dr D N Road, Mumbai – 400001. Competition closes at midnight on 30th November 2012. TERMS AND CONDITIONS FOR CLAIMING THE GIFT VOUCHER/ COUPON THROUGH A LUCKY DRAW: 1. The lucky draw is organised by Worldwide Media Private Limited (WWM) and is binding on all participants to this lucky draw and all applications for participation would be in the original form. Only one entry permitted per person. Entries made in bulk or by third parties are prohibited. WWM reserves the right to cancel any duplicate entries and debar all such entries from the lucky draw at its own discretion. 2. Entries received after the closing date of the contest shall not be entertained and won’t be returned. 3. The result declared by WWM is final and no further queries or complaints or questions will be entertained and WWM is further not obliged to respond to the same. 4. The winner of the contest is entitled to stay in a Jaisalmer suite for 3 nights and 4 days. There is no cash alternative and the prize is not transferable. 5. The winner of the lucky draw shall pay and be responsible for the Income tax and any other statutory taxes or surcharges before claiming the gift coupon/ voucher. The winner of the lucky draw shall give the proof of payment of Income tax and any other statutory taxes before claiming the gift coupon/ voucher. 6. WWM is not responsible for difference or variance or deficiency in the service by Suryagarh, Jaisalmer and will not have any obligation to respond to any of
Terms and conditions apply.
188 BBC GoodFood
COMPETITION ENTRY FORM For a chance to win this fantastic prize, simply fill in your details and post this form to: BBC Good Food India, Worldwide Media Pvt Ltd, The Times of India Building, 4th Floor, Dr DN Road, Mumbai – 400001 before November 30, 2012. Title Address
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Worldwide Media Pvt. Ltd, publisher of BBC Good Food India, may contact you with details of its products and services or to undertake research. If you prefer not to receive such information by post or phone, please tick this box . Please include your email address if you prefer to receive such information by email. We may occasionally pass your details on to carefully selected companies whose products and services we feel may be of interest to you. If you prefer not to receive such information by post or phone, please tick this box .
the complaints of the winner(s). 7. WWM reserves the right to change/modify the terms and conditions of this offer or to withdraw this offer at any point in time, if circumstances arise beyond our control. 8. The participants to this contest, including the winner, agree that the details disclosed in the Competition Entry Form would become the property of WWM and its affiliates, Suryagarh, and the participants, including the winner, further agree that the details can be used for all purposes (including commercial and promotional use) as WWM and Suryagarh deem fit. 9. The winner will be notified within a month of the closing date of the contest. If WWM cannot contact the winner within one month of the closing date, then WWM will offer the prize to a runner-up, or re-offer the prize in another promotion. 10. The winner has to collect the prize within one month of being notified / informed by WWM of the result. If the winner fails to collect the prize within the time period specified, it would be assumed that he has forfeited his claim to the prize and WWM is then allowed to offer the prize to a runner-up, or re-offer the prize in another promotion. 11. The hotel accommodation is valid till March 2013, subject to availability. 12. The winner would need to abide by the terms and conditions of Suryagarh. 13. WWM would not be liable in any manner whatsoever for any loss, damage or injury occurring to the winner, arising from their entry or acceptance
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of the prize. 14. This contest is only open to Indian residents aged 18+ years. The guest of the winner would also be an Indian resident also aged 18+. 15. Employees of WWM and Suryagarh and the other sponsors, and their relatives and business associates are not eligible to take part in this lucky draw. 16. WWM will share the contact details, with addresses, of all the participants who send in their entries for this contest with Suryagarh. Suryagarh reserves the right to communicate with respondents for promotional offers, etc. 17. Suryagarh reserves the right to unconditionally modify/append this offer without prior notice. 18. Rooms at Suryagarh will be provided on the basis of availability and the hotel reserves the right to review the accommodation status and applicability of rates. The checkin and check-out time is 12 noon. 19. The winner will bear the cost of travel from his home town up to the closest airport i.e. Jodhpur or Jaisalmer railway station. Suryagarh will arrange for two-way transfers from the closest airport/railway point in a luxury car. 20. The package includes all meals – breakfast, lunch and dinner as well as Suryagarh’s signature sand dune setup with hi-tea, camel safari & dune bashing. 21. Special couple therapy “Romance of Rajputana” is available at the spa, however prior appointment is required. The therapy includes body exfoliation, a massage, royal bath with milk and rose and herbal tea.
NOVEMBER 2012
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Fabulous foodie destinations from around the world. Go on a food trip! IN THIS ISSUE
T Eat like a local in Jamaica, p 190 T Postcard from New York, p 196
Try Chef Robert Joseph's menu of authentic Jamaican recipes, p 190
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EAT LIKE A LOCAL
Jamaica When the sun’s in the sky and Bob Marley’s playing on the radio, it’s time for a smoky, spicy Jamaican feast. Here comes the hot pepper! Words and photographs VICKY RATNANI Recipes ROBERT JOSEPH
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t all started with a love for reggae, beaches and an instant connection to the Caribbean, especially Jamaica, which I visited when I was a chef on the popular ocean liners, Queen Elizabeth II and the enormous Queen Mary II. Going ashore in Jamaica was delightful – lounging on the beach, guzzling a few local beers and tropical cocktails, and sampling the famous jerk chicken, rice and peas and occasionally, goat curry and oxtail. As I type this, I’m starting to feel hungry all over again! Despite the fact that it is located right in the centre of the Caribbean Sea, the island of Jamaica doesn’t much resemble the rest of the Caribbean archipelago, when it comes to history and culture. Caribbean food as we know it today was influenced by the West African, Portuguese, Chinese, French and Dutch, but most importantly by the arrival of the Spanish in 1509. With the Spanish came their slaves who brought with them cooking techniques, spices and recipes from Africa. The Spanish Jews came later, introducing unusual dishes (for instance Escovitch fish – a vinegary concoction). This led to a new cooking style using the island’s fresh produce and seafood, thereby creating a host of brand new dishes. In the 16th Century, the English developed several dishes on the island (the most famous being the Jamaican patty). A century later, 190 BBC GoodFood
many immigrants from China and East India began to migrate to the island as labourers. Today most Jamaican food incorporates Indian spices, which is why the country is very famous for its spicy food. Just about everything is made into a curry — seafood, pork or chicken. The most iconic Jamaican dish is jerk chicken, a popular kind of barbecue. Meat is marinated in a spicy mix of allspice (also called pimento) and hot Scotch bonnet peppers, among others. Jerk seasoning is traditionally applied to pork and chicken, but today it can be used with almost anything — fish, shellfish, beef, lamb and sausage. At first, the food was smoked in pits. In the 1960s, Top: Vicky Ratnani Caribbeans used barrels with holes is Head Chef at in them, fired with charcoal, thereby Aurus, Mumbai. enhancing the smoky taste of the food. Above: Chef Today, street-side jerk stands or Robert Joseph is jerk centres are frequently found in Executive Chef at Jamaica and throughout the Caribbean Sea Horse Grill, islands, serving up steaming plates Montego Bay. of poultry or pork with hard bread, deep-fried cassava bammy (flatbread, usually served with fish), Jamaican fried dumplings (known as Johnny or journey cakes), and festival, a variation of sweet-flavoured fried dumplings made with sugar and served as a side.
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EASY MENU FOR 4 T Pumpkin soup T Scotchies jerk chicken T Goat curry T Rice and peas T Jamaican stewed oxtail with broad beans T Ackee and smoked marlin with fried bammy (Eggs and tuna with bread)
Pumpkin soup Serves 4 n 40 minutes n EASY pumpkin 1, small vegetable stock 1 1/3 cups, unstrained bay leaf 1 bouquet garni (dried parsley, thyme, basil, rosemary and tarragon bundled into a muslin cloth) coconut milk 3 cups nutmeg 1/2 tsp sugar 1/2 tsp salt 1 tsp pepper 1/2 tsp, freshly crushed coconut flakes to serve, toasted n Cut the pumpkin into half and then remove seeds with a spoon. Peel the pumpkin, making sure to get rid of all the skin. n Add the pumpkin to a pot with the vegetable stock, toss in a bay leaf and bouquet garni, and simmer until the pumpkin is thoroughly cooked. n Remove bay leaf and bouquet garni, add pumpkin and stock to a blender and blend continuously until smooth. n Add the pumpkin purée back into the pot with the coconut milk, nutmeg, sugar, salt, and pepper. Cook for 15 minutes. Push through a fine sieve to remove any lumps. Garnish with toasted coconut flakes.
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Breadfruit is often used as a vegetable
Pumpkin soup
Goat curry
The iconic Scotchies restaurant
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eat away jamaica
WorldMags.net Scotchies jerk chicken Serves 4 n 30 minutes + marinating n EASY
MINI GUIDE TO MONTEGO BAY EAT n Chef Robbie Joseph’s Seahorse Grill (Tel: +876 6849133) at the Montego Bay Yacht Club offers Jamaican and international cuisine. A seaside eatery located at the ‘Tip of the Bay’, it is bang opposite the Sunset Beach Hotel. n Located on Montego Bay’s Hip Strip, Pork Pit Restaurant (Tel: +876 9403008) rustles up an authentic jerk pit — slow roasted or barbecued to bring out the tasty flavours of thyme, pimento and ginger. You can enjoy jerked pork, chicken, ribs, sausages, shrimps, fish and buffalo wings offered with side dishes such as sweet potato, festival rolls and roast yam. n Scotchies (Tel: +876 9533301) at Coral Gardens serves the best Jamaican jerk. Vegetarians can feast on deep-fried cornbread (called ‘festival’), breadfruit and sweet potatoes dipped in a peppery sauce. Look for the thatched-roof dining huts along the coastal highway, with patrons hunched over delicacies wrapped in aluminum foil. n The Pelican Restaurant (Tel: +876 9523171) is Montego Bay’s haunt for mouthwatering Jamaican cuisine. Try the steamed red snapper with okra and bammy, ackee and salted codfish with boiled green bananas, yam and fried Johnny cakes. Desserts include sweet potato and bread pudding. n Jimmy Buffett’s Margaritaville (Tel: +876 9524777) at Montego Bay is a must visit for its renowned Cheeseburger in Paradise, tropical margaritas and shop for merchandise. Outlets in Negril and Ochi Rios too.
Recipe courtesy SCOTCHIES, Montego Bay whole chicken 1 1/2 kg, skin on (you can substitute the chicken with paneer) pimento or allspice berries 1/2 cup (available at gourmet stores) Scotch bonnet peppers or spicy green or red chillies 1/2 cup garlic cloves 6-8, peeled spring onions 1 bunch brown sugar 1 tbsp soy sauce 1 tbsp cinnamon 1 tsp, ground nutmeg 1/2 tsp, ground thyme 1 tbsp, finely chopped salt to taste pepper to taste n Wash and clean the whole chicken. You can keep the chicken whole or cut it into 8 pieces, taking care to leave the skin on. n Grind all the other ingredients in a food processor to make a chunky paste. n Marinate the chicken overnight in this paste. If you are using a whole chicken, then make gashes on the thigh and breast portions, to allow for better absorption of the flavours. n Cook the chicken on a grill, barbecue or even in a convection oven. Allow 2025 minutes if the chicken is on the bone and cut into pieces.
Goat curry Serves 4 n 2-3 hours + marinating n MODERATELY EASY
SLEEP n Jamaica has several accommodation options, right from luxury resorts to modest hotels. Most of the resorts operate on an all-inclusive plan. The Half Moon Resort (halfmoon.rockresorts.com) at Montego Bay offers rooms at $ 260 per night, including breakfast. n Other options include El Greco Resort (elgrecojamaica. com) at $ 135 per night and Toby’s Resort, (reservations@ tobyresorts.com) providing decent rooms for $ 70-$ 80.
DO n Visit Gloucester Avenue where you can shop, eat, dance and even get someone to braid your hair, all on the same street, affectionately called the Hip Strip. 192 BBC GoodFood
mutton 1.4kg, chopped into small pieces salt 2 tsp black pepper 1 tsp fresh thyme 1/2 tsp, chopped whole pimento berries 75g, crushed (available at gourmet stores) garlic cloves 2, crushed onion 1, chopped tomato 1, chopped Scotch Bonnet pepper or spicy green or red chilli 1/2 tsp, chopped spring onions 2, chopped fresh root ginger 1 tsp , finely chopped
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vegetable oil 2 tbsp curry powder 50g n Mix together all the ingredients except the oil and curry powder. Rub into the meat and leave to marinate for at least 2 hours. n Add the oil and curry powder to a thick-bottomed pot, cooking over medium heat. Stir till the mixture turns pale brown. n Add the marinated meat, turning the pieces often to seal in the flavours. n Lower the heat, add about 2 cups of water and stir. Cover and allow to simmer until the meat is tender, about 1 1/2 - 3 hours. n Add extra water and curry powder, if necessary, to the gravy. Taste and adjust the seasoning throughout the cooking process. Serve with steamed rice.
Rice and peas Serves 4 n 2 hours 30 minutes n EASY dried red kidney beans (rajma) 1 cup, soaked overnight unsweetened coconut milk 1 1/2 cups spring onions 3 stalks chopped fresh thyme 1 sprig salt to taste pepper to taste white rice 2 cups, uncooked Scotch bonnet pepper or spicy green or red chilli 1, whole garlic cloves 3, whole root ginger 1 tsp, peeled and minced n Place beans in a large saucepan. Add enough water to cover and boil until just tender, about 2 hours. n Add the coconut milk and seasonings and then the rice. Top up with water, (if necessary), so that there is about 2 1/2 times as much liquid as rice and beans. n Add the hot pepper and bring to a boil. n Reduce the heat and cover. Let the rice steam slowly until cooked, for about 25-30 minutes. n Remove the hot pepper and thyme stalk, then fluff lightly before serving.
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Scotchies jerk chicken
eat away jamaica
Ackee and smoked marlin with fried bammy
Cookshop in Montego Bay
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WorldMags.net Jamaican stewed
n Battle the colourful crowds to people-watch, swim or snorkel at Doctor’s Cave Beach, known for its clear blue waters. n Mingle with some of the most exotic birds in the world at Rocklands Bird Sanctuary where you can feed sugared water to hummingbirds by hand. n Although the city has no shortage of trinket peddlers, Old Fort Craft Park offers souvenir stalls where all 180plus vendors are licensed. n Descend upon the Reggae Sumfest in February, head to the Bob Marley Experience Theatre or tour his scenic birthplace in Nine Mile. n Get your certification before you go scuba-diving and the wonders of Cayman Trench Wall and Chubb Reef can be yours. Experienced divers can enter the famous Widowmaker’s Cave, then work their way back up a narrow chimney. n Those who don’t mind a bone-chilling tale may catch a glimpse of the White Witch on a tour through the ghostly Rose Hall Great House. n Zip through a lush rainforest past treetops and rushing water on a Zipline canopy tour in the Caribbean, with a 1,600-foot-long ride.
Ackee is Jamaica’s national fruit
MENU DECODER
ACKEE is considered to be the national fruit of Jamaica. It is traditionally used to prepare ackee and salt fish, a traditional dish that is served with roasted breadfruit on the side. BEEF PATTY is minced beef encased in a shortcrust annatto seed-flavoured pastry and then baked. It’s very similar to the patties and puffs prepared in India. JERK CHICKEN/PORK is a classic Jamaican dish prepared with jerk seasoning and my favourite! FESTIVAL refers to fried, sweet dumplings made with flour, eggs and milk and served as a side dish. CHICKEN IN BROWN STEW is flavoured with scallions, garlic, thyme, hot peppers and tomatoes, then thickened with flour and water and simmered slowly. It is usually served with rice and peas. TING is a very popular grapefruit flavoured soda. 194 BBC GoodFood
oxtail with broad beans
Serves 4 n 1 hour 15 minutes n EASY beef oxtail or chicken or mutton 450g, cut into pieces onion 1 large, chopped green onion 1, thinly sliced garlic cloves 2, minced fresh ginger root 1 tsp, minced Scotch bonnet pepper or spicy green or red chilli 1, chopped soy sauce 2 tbsp fresh thyme 1 sprig, chopped salt 1/2 tsp black pepper 1 tsp vegetable oil 2 tbsp water 1 1/2 cups broad beans 1 cup, drained allspice berries 1 tsp (available at gourmet stores) cornstarch 1 tbsp water 2 tbsp n Toss the oxtail with the onion, green onion, garlic, ginger, chilli pepper, soy sauce, thyme, salt and pepper. n Heat the vegetable oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Cook the oxtail in the skillet until browned all over, about 10 minutes. n Place into a pressure cooker, and pour in 1 1/2 cups water. Cook at pressure for 25 minutes, then remove from heat, and remove the lid. n Add the broad beans and allspice berries, and bring to a simmer over medium-high heat. n Dissolve the cornstarch in 2 tbsp water, and stir into the simmering oxtail. Cook and stir for a few minutes
until the sauce has thickened and the beans are tender.
Ackee and smoked marlin with fried bammy (Eggs and tuna with bread) Serves 4 n 30 minutes n EASY cooking oil to fry onion 1 small thyme 3 sprigs garlic 1, crushed or garlic powder 2 tsp Scotch bonnet pepper or spicy green or red chilli 3, sliced tomatoes 2, medium tomato paste 1 tbsp red sweet pepper 1 small smoked marlin or tuna 120g, cubed (try fresh or canned tuna in brine or olive oil) ackee fruit or eggs 3-4 TO SERVE bammy sticks or white or whole wheat bread milk 1 cup sugar 2 tsp vanilla extract 1 tsp butter to fry n Heat oil in a frying pan. Add the onions, thyme, garlic, peppers, tomato, tomato paste and red peppers. Stir for a few minutes. n Add the marlin and stir. Simmer for 5 minutes, then add the can of drained ackee or eggs. Do not stir as this will cause the fruit to break into pieces. n Serve with vanilla-infused fried bammy sticks. Make these by soaking bammy sticks in milk, sugar and vanilla extract. Then pan fry in butter.
MUST BUY
HANDICRAFTS from the crafts market along Harbour Street close to Sam Sharpe Square. There are two smaller markets in the hotel area, one on Hip Strip and another on Fort Street on the site of a 17th Century fort; they are an absolute treasure trove. BLUE MOUNTAIN JAMAICAN COFFEE The Blue Mountains boast of possibly the world’s best coffee. JERK SEASONING AND HOT SAUCE Of course! JAMAICAN RUM CAKE Rich, dark rum-soaked fruit cake — impossible to refuse! APPLETON ESTATE JAMAICAN RUM The Appleton Estate is 260 years old and produces delicious hand-blended rum.
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Jamaican stewed oxtail and broad beans with rice and peas
eat away westjamaica bengal
Selling fresh produce at the local market
Red kidney beans are an essential ingredient in the iconic Jamaican dish, rice and peas
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, NYCGO E BUGLEWICZ Photograph JO
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Postcard from
New York Karen Anand dishes about the ongoing culinary French revolution in (surprise, surprise) New York
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am in New York City after almost 20 years and find it has become cleaner and more organised and proud of its ethnic mix and deep-rooted diversity. In terms of food, there is no doubt that the French have taken over. It’s the new buzz cuisine for not only the high and mighty of pocket and esprit but also the average-thinking New Yorker eager for a way of life beyond burger and fries. A New York food columnist talks about whipping up a Salade Niçoise for a mid-week dinner and Dean & DeLuca, the original gourmet store in SoHo, sells French
cheeses as if Broadway is born to them. There is a game called ‘boules’ which old men play in villages throughout France. It consists of rolling a ball in order to hit a target ball, not unlike a similar game in England called ‘bowls’. It is no coincidence that chef and entrepreneur Daniel Boulud’s name not only sounds like the game in question but represents what he has done to this city. He has simply and literally ‘bouled’ New York over with his food. Boulud represents the Frenchification of New York
Food writer, entrepreneur and gourmet, Karen Anand has journeyed across the world writing about gastronomy.
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— not just on the fashionable and conservative Upper East Side but also further down on the alternative-chic Bowery. Along with other big names like Eric Ripert and Jean-Georges Vongerichten, there is no way you can avoid ‘France’ in some form or the other in the city. I spend a week in the city without eating any fries, hamburgers or steaks – except of course Boulud-style at db Bistro Moderne, (Tel: +1 212 3912400), which serves his interpretation of updated bistro cooking with Manhattan panache. ‘Consummate erudition’, a friend of mine aptly calls it. It is a Manhattan restaurant located in the City Club Hotel on West 44th Street, just a few steps from Times Square and the theatre district on one side and between 5th and 6th Avenue on the other. Boulud’s locations aren’t accidental. They are cleverly manipulated to suit the clientele he is after. At db Bistro Moderne, I have my one and only hamburger on this visit, freshly ground sirloin with a stuffing of tender red winebraised short ribs and foie gras on a homemade toasted Parmesan bun. This is part of the summer menu but during winter you get the ‘Royale’ version with shaved black truffle. It is always served with a pile of perfectly thin shoestring French fries rather than the American-style doorstoppers. The Tarte Flambée, hot cheesy Pizzarettes, Escargot Skewers, affordable wines like the lovely crisp Gruner Veltliner from Austria, warm little lemon-shot Madeleines which magically appear with coffee. Everything is precious without being effete and what’s more, quite a steal for this quality of food (about $ 30 for lunch and $ 45 for a prix fixe dinner menu). The chef also prepares Boulud’s famous seafood extravaganza from Marseille, bouillabaisse, on request. Boulud has been in the United States since the early 1980s but it is in the last 20 years or so that he has built
EN Photograph MARK SEEL
ND Photograph KAREN ANA
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eat away postcard
at other establishments. Thirsty after devouring the beautiful Frick Collection, a private museum with an astounding collection of old Masters (Tel: +1 212 2880700) and in need of a New York cocktail, we head for the Carlyle Bar on 76th and Madison (Tel: +1 212 7441600). This is the Upper East Side you hear about and see in movies. As we stroll down from
a formidable empire. It includes his Upper East Side flagship restaurant, the three Michelin-starred Daniel (Tel: +1 212 2880033) which was voted one of the 10 best restaurants in the world; Café Boulud in Surrey Hotel, a favourite of Henry Kissinger’s, it appears; Bar Boulud, Epicerie Boulud and Boulud Sud on Broadway (New York’s Mayor
ND Photograph KAREN ANA
Bloomberg even suggested renaming the street after him) and the newly opened DBGB Kitchen and Bar, a casual place which the chef describes as a cross between a French brasserie and an American tavern. It opened on the Bowery in Lower Manhattan with a menu of over a dozen varieties of house-made sausages and up to 75 craft beers. Boulud has opened more restaurants in Miami, Palm Beach, Beijing and this year, Canada. In between being ‘bouled’ over in New York, I eat (and drink)
Clockwise from facing page: New York’s iconic Times Square; the kitchen at Café Boulud; At Dean & DeLuca; Boulud Sud on Broadway; The maestro himself — Daniel Boulud
Photograph P WA GTOUICZ
“Chef and entrepreneur Daniel Boulud has simply and literally ‘bouled’ New York over with his food. Boulud represents the Frenchification of New York — not just on the fashionable and conservative Upper East Side but also further down on the alternative-chic Bowery”
5th Avenue, we pass impeccably dressed maids carefully placing Louis Vuitton overnight bags in the back of a car while a large chauffeur holds a manicured and coiffed Lhasa Apso. Clearly someone is off to the East Hamptons for the weekend. This is Friday evening in New York and the fun has begun. Just before I cross the road to the Carlyle, I catch sight of the welcoming and upmarket Bar Pleiades in Surrey Hotel (Tel: +1 212 2883700). It is quiet with warm interiors serving great cocktails. We start with a New York favourite, an Old Fashioned — bourbon and bitters with an orange twist. It tastes
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Above: The DB Burger at db Bistro Moderne; Broadway has been virtually taken over by Daniel Boulud’s restaurants. Below: Chris Miller, mixologist at Bar Pleiades; restaurant; Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s stylish restaurant — ABC Kitchen
ND Photograph KAREN ANA
perfect but is a little heavy for early evening. The bartender, Chris Miller entices us with a refreshing Pimms Cup, Green Moon, Manhattan, Brooklyn and lastly a Grapefruit Givré, made of g. oliveira, boulud sud Plymouth (honey comb and lavender infused gin), roasted sesame, orgeat (a sweet syrup), grapefruit and rose water. At Bar Pleiades, you’ll have to know what Ron Zacapa (a super premium rum) and Brugal Anejo (a rum from the Dominican Republic) are, since only brand names are mentioned on the menu, not the alcohol itself. Its trademark, other than impossibly good cocktails, is the oversized ice cube block—an exceedingly good idea since it doesn’t dilute my drink quickly. We also have a dozen perfectly fresh oysters and a beautiful entrée from Café Boulud (Tel: +1 212 2883700) next door (yes, again) — Maine crab in a cilantro, cucumber and avocado broth and grilled marinated mackerel with eggplant, pine nuts, pickled raisins and caperberries. Both the menu and cocktail list are divided under headings — tradition/season/ garden/travel. We even bump into the affable Mr Boulud as he is making his rounds. One evening, my friend, the New York architect and interior
designer, Tom Scheerer takes me to his favourite restaurant in the neighbourhood of Gramercy Park/ Union Square where he lives and works. Despite the fact that we opt for an early dinner on a weekday, the only seating left in the sprawling, uber-trendy ABC Kitchen (Tel: +1 212 4755829) is at the bar. The restaurant is a feat of genius from another French chef who has taken New York by storm, Jean-Georges Vongerichten. It’s a farm-to-kitchen concept with organic ingredients and everything sourced locally. We order the Roasted Beets with Housemade Yogurt and a sprig of the herb chervil that tastes like a cross between tarragon and parsley, along with a Maine lobster that is served with two giant claws in addition to the sweet flesh on the tail. This is the real thing and gently poached or roasted, there is nothing quite like it. ABC is also a mega lifestyle and carpet store stretching over several thousand square feet of
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prime retail space. You must pop into the Old Town Bar (Tel: +1 212 5296713) next door that looks like it’s come straight out of Mad Men. And where do I stay? Well, it has to be the bastion of New York hospitality, The Plaza (Tel: +1 212 5465203), with its amazing location on 5th Avenue at Central Park South. It doesn’t get better than this. Now a mere fragment of the colossal giant it once was, The Plaza has lost its famous frontage on Central Park to apartments (although there is no change in the façade) and the entrance is now on the side. Many of the old timers still work here and it is still a fine example of service and elegance. They even have a limo service that takes residents 10 blocks in any direction. This hotel with its ‘French chateau’ charm, proves that there is still a market for goose down pillows and unabashed, overstated luxury. It also seems to be the preferred wedding venue for a chosen few and the Eloise suite, named after a character in a children’s novel, is booked all year with children’s parties and children staying there. New York is certainly a product of hype and marketing genius. At the turn of the century, New York looked to France for inspiration in décor and architecture. Today, they are doing the same thing with food.
Photograph courtesy ABC KITCHEN
Photograph E KHERAJ
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masterclass
COOK LIKE A PRO Smart ways to improve your kitchen skills Words KAINAZ CONTRACTOR Photograph GARETH MORGANS
HANDHELD MIXER
The last time we tried to cream butter and sugar into a lusciously pale-golden mix for light and feathery cakes, we could only achieve it with a handheld mixer. We’d been told that we could do it just as easily with a whisk but we’re not as dexterous as our mothers had hoped. This mixer can do things a large stand mixer can’t — it is brilliantly portable and its light weight allows us to easily take it across the kitchen to perch on top of a double boiler to make sure the egg doesn’t curdle or to whisk cream in a bowl. Unlike a stand mixer, nothing is out of reach and you’re in complete charge of what you’re whisking, making sure you never accidentally beat your cream into butter. Plus, we really love its striking red body. Available at cookware stores from ` 3,000 onwards.
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In this section T Gordon Ramsay’s step-by-step chocolate fondant masterclass p 200 T Nikhil Agarwal’s Aussie wine picks p 206
GORDON RAMSAY’S
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Masterclass
The great Gordon Ramsay demonstrates his most decadent dessert — a gooey chocolate fondant that shouts party wow! Recipe GORDON RAMSAY Photographs LIS PARSONS
Chocolate fondant Makes 9 n 1 hour + chilling n MODERATELY EASY butter 50g melted, for brushing cocoa powder, for dusting dark chocolate 200g, chopped into small pieces butter 200g, in small pieces golden caster sugar 200g (try Tate & Lyle available at gourmet stores) eggs 4 egg yolks 4 plain flour 200g caramel sauce (see below) vanilla ice cream or orange sorbet to serve
n Tip the sugar into a heavy-based frying pan, stir in 4 tbsp water, then place over a medium heat until the sugar has dissolved. n Turn up the heat and bubble for 4-5 minutes until you have caramel. Take off the heat, then carefully stir in the cream and butter. Leave the sauce to cool, then tip into a squeezy bottle. n PER SERVING 206 kcals, protein none, carbs 27g, fat 12g, sat fat 7g, fibre none, sugar 27g, salt 0.09g
EXCLUSIVE P STEP-BY-STE RECIPE
200 BBC GoodFood
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Styling ANDREW JACKSON Food styling MARK SARGEANT
THE CARAMEL SAUCE caster sugar 250g double cream 142ml (available at your local dairy) butter 50g
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masterclass chef skills
Chocolate fondant must be the ultimate modern classic pudding. It’s easy to understand its appeal – a hot pudding with a molten middle that can be prepared ahead. It’s completely irresistible, so no wonder that it’s the best-selling dessert on my menu. — Gordon Ramsay
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BBC GoodFood 201
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1
First get your moulds ready (see steps 1-3 on p 203). Place a bowl over a pan of barely simmering water, then slowly melt the chocolate and butter together. Remove bowl from the heat and stir until smooth. Leave to cool for about 10 minutes.
2
In a separate bowl, whisk the eggs and yolks together with the sugar until thick and pale and the whisk leaves a trail; use an electric whisk if you want. Sift the flour into the eggs, then beat together.
3
Pour the melted chocolate into the egg mixture in thirds, beating well between each addition, until all the chocolate is added and the mixture is completely combined to a loose cake batter.
4
Tip the fondant batter into a jug, then evenly divide between the moulds. The fondants can now be frozen for up to a month and cooked from frozen. Chill for at least 20 minutes or up to the night before.
5
Heat oven to 200°C. Place the fondants on a baking tray, then cook for 10-12 minutes until the tops have formed a crust and they are starting to come away from the sides of their moulds. Remove from the oven, then leave to sit for 1 minute before turning out.
6
Loosen the fondants by moving the tops very gently so they come away from the sides, easing them out of the moulds. Tip each fondant slightly onto your hand so you know it has come away, then tip back into the mould ready to plate up.
202 BBC GoodFood
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masterclass chef skills
Secrets from Gordon’s kitchen HOW TO ENSURE YOUR PUDS DON’T STICK
1
Using upward strokes, heavily brush the melted butter all over the inside of the pudding mould. Place the mould in the fridge or freezer.
2
Brush more melted butter over the chilled butter, then add a good spoonful of cocoa powder into the mould.
3
Tip the mould so the powder completely coats the butter. Tap any excess cocoa back into the jar, then repeat with the next mould.
3
Carefully place the ice cream on top of the fondant, then serve immediately. Repeat with the rest of the fondants.
PLATE UP LIKE A PROFESSIONAL
1
In order to plate up, starting from the middle of each plate, squeeze a spiral of caramel sauce — do all the plates you need before you go on to the next stage.
2
Sit a fondant in the middle of each plate. Using a large spoon dipped in hot water, scoop a ‘quenelle’ of ice cream.
TIPS FROM THE TOP n As we make the fondants in such great volumes in my restaurants we use disposable 150ml aluminium muffin tins, but ramekins work just as well. The cooking times I have given here are for ramekins but if you want to use the muffin tins, then 10 minutes in the oven will be fine. n We always cook a few more than we need, to allow for error. If you are making the fondants for a dinner party, I would advise
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you to cook one extra as an ‘insurance policy’ that you can test for doneness. If everything goes according to plan, I’m sure there will be no shortage of guests wanting second helpings. n The beauty of this recipe is that it can be prepared quite a bit ahead. The fondants will happily sit in the fridge overnight or can be frozen for up to 1 month. To bake from frozen, simply carry on as stated, adding 5 minutes more
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to the cooking time. The caramel sauce can be made up to a week ahead. n Once you have mastered the fondants, it’s very easy to adapt their flavour. For a boozy version, add a generous splash of Baileys Irish Cream to the melted chocolate. You can also make a chocolate and orange version by adding the finely grated zest of 1 large orange and an optional splash of orange liqueur.
BBC GoodFood 203
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Australian wines Wine expert Nikhil Agarwal picks his favourite Aussie wines
Nikhil Agarwal, a trained sommelier, gives you the lowdown on the top Australian wines available in Indian wine shops. Agarwal is director of All Things Nice, a company dedicated to introducing the Indian consumer to the gourmet life.
206 BBC GoodFood
I
recently won a scholarship to Australia, designed not only to give a group of people from all over the world the privilege of drinking copious amounts of its finest wines but also to allow them to experience Australia’s wonderful wine regions, visit legendary wineries and meet iconic producers. After tasting 165 wines from 110 producers from over 30 Australian regions in master classes alone (and then visiting eight of them), I can’t help but be wide eyed about the country’s wines. Australia produces absolutely stunning wines from a diverse range of grape varietals, ranging from easy drinking to top-end fine wines. With a colossal portfolio of options to choose from, you are quite sure to find your preferred style of wine here. In India there are several Australian wines available at various price points. Unfortunately, the ones I have picked do not comprise all that Australia has to offer. For instance, I haven’t included Grange since it is very well known but I have mentioned a dessert wine just to show off the country’s diversity in wine production. So the next time you want to get yourself a truly stunning wine, you should give Australia a shot—it may give you more bang for your buck.
SPARKLING
Yering Station Yarrabank Cuvee, Yarra Valley (` 5,345, available at Hyatt Regency in Pune) This wine has a firm acid structure with yeast-like biscuity, creamy notes and a degree of minerality. Fantastic on its own, you could also sip it with chèvre cheese.
RED
Henschke Lenswood Giles Pinot Noir, Adelaide Hills (` 7,209, available at Taj Land’s End and ITC Grand Maratha, Mumbai) Made as precisely as Henschke’s Hill of Grace, it has red berries on the nose, fine tannins and a long finish. Try it with tagliatelle in truffle sauce.
ES TO BL W UB ING HOD B AP OI SC AV E
10-MINUTE WINE GUIDE
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Mount Pleasant Elizabeth Sémillon, Hunter Valley (` 3,089, available at Sofitel, Mumbai and Reliance Fresh outlets, nationwide) This varietal needs a few years in the bottle before it comes into its own. It pairs well with spicy yellowtail sushi rolls.
Leeuwin Estate Prelude Vineyards Chardonnay, Margaret River (` 4,596, available at Sofitel, Mumbai and Reliance Fresh outlets, nationwide) With an acid structure and fruit mixed with hazelnut and lime, this chardonnay goes brilliantly with seafood or four cheese risotto.
Amon-ra Shiraz, Barossa Valley (` 12,500, available at select hotels nationwide) One of my favourite wine makers, Ben Glaetzer crafts this beautiful wine. Made from 100-year-old vines, it is as powerful as it is elegant, with dollops of concentrated fruit. Pairs well with rogan josh.
Jim Barry Lodge Hill Dry Riesling, Clare Valley (` 3,076, available at Taj Land’s End and ITC Grand Maratha, Mumbai) As the name suggests, this is a dry, zippy white wine with floral and tropical fruit notes. The best Riesling in Australia is produced in the Clare Valley and Eden Valley. Works well with Burmese khao suey.
Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon, Coonawarra (` 2,665, available at Wimpy’s Wine Cellar, The Taj Mahal Hotel, Mumbai and Reliance Fresh outlets, nationwide) Coonawarra does Cabernet Sauvignon very well and this particular wine provides great value for money. Try it with grilled lamb burgers.
Torbreck The Bothie, Barossa Valley (` 1,850, available at ITC Maratha Sheraton, Mumbai) Torbreck is famous for its powerful Rhone Style reds. This dessert wine needs to be served chilled. Beautifully balanced with nuances of honey and lime, it matches well with Pain Perdu.
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NOVEMBER 2012
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Recipe index
T VEGETARIAN T READY UNDER 30 MINUTES T LOW FAT
STARTERS, SNACKS AND SOUP T T T T 106 Baked corn and cheese-stuffed Bhavnagari chillies T T T T 51 Balsamic and brown sugar roasted carrots T T T T 51 Balsamic roasted tomatoes T T T T 152 Bean chilli tacos T T T T 160 Cheese soufflé T T T T 158 Easy cheese fondue T T T T 96 Layered hummus, tabbouleh and feta picnic bowl T T T T 108 Mediterraneanstyle lamb filo pouches T T T T 152 Mushroom tom yum T T T T 86 Orzo and mozzarella salad T T T T 88 Pancetta, goat’s cheese and chicory salad with hazelnuts T T T T 157 Piri piri prawns T T T T 106 Popcorn-crusted prawn and smoked paprika mayo T T T T 100 Roasted pepper salad with capers and pine nuts T T T T 150 Som tam (green papaya salad) T T T T 154 Veggie tempura
T T T T 154 Meat T T T T 78 T T T T 156 T T T T 20 T T T T 192 T T T T 51 T T T T 194 T T T T 82 T T T T 158 T T T T 90
T T T T 90 T T T T 159
Leek, mushroom and spinach soufflé omelette Spicy vegetable egg fried rice Baked peppers stuffed with spiced lamb Beef rendang Chilli beef steak with spaghetti Goat curry Honey mustard chicken with herb salad Jamaican stewed oxtail with broad beans Jamaican-style pork and spinach stew Lamb and saffron biryani Lamb steaks with spinach, raisins and pine nuts Meatballs in hot pepper sauce with orzo and rocket Moussaka
208 BBC GoodFood
T T T T 108 T T T T 94
T T T T 153 T T T T 156 T T T T 155 T T T T 80
and couscous salad Spiced paneer skewers with green chilli sauce Spinach tagliatelle with olive oil and piquante peppers Warm roasted vegetables with spiced crushed chickpeas Veg maki roll Veg pad Thai Vietnamese veg parcels White onion, potato and rosemary pizza
SIDES & SAUCES T T T T 200 Caramel sauce T T T T 116 Fig chutney T T T T 110 Herb garlic butter sauce T T T T 106 Mango and balsamic chutney T T T T 100 Marinated feta in thyme and chilli oil T T T T 100 Minty bean and courgette dip with pita crisps T T T T 157 Mint relish T T T T 154 Ponzu sauce T T T T 106 Smoked paprika mayo T T T T 86 Smoky chipotle pepper salsa T T T T 155 Vietnamese dipping sauce T T T T 118 Walnut pesto
T T T T 154 T T T T 158 T T T T 153 Poultry T T T T 74 T T T T 92 T T T T 192
Pho Rogan josh Sizzling beef bulgogi Darjeeling tea roast chicken Lemon and thyme chicken with roast potatoes and olives Scotchies jerk chicken
Fish & seafood T T T T 194 Ackee and smoked marlin with fried bammy (Eggs and tuna with bread) T T T T 110 Asafoetida-spiced grilled fish T T T T 88 Baked basa and herb parcels with lemon wild rice T T T T 152 Fish sambal T T T T 150 Paella T T T T 155 Prawn and coconut laksa T T T T 80 Soy-glazed salmon with pea, carrot and edamame salad
T T T T 51 T T T T 84 Vegetarian T T T T 110 T T T T 99 T T T T 151 T T T T 72 T T T T 156 T T T T 98 T T T T 150 T T T T 92 T T T T 82 T T T T 51 T T T T 192 T T T T 101 T T T T 86
Sweet chilli prawn cakes Tuna melt jackets Catalan-inspired exotic mushroom stew Cucumber and herb triple-deckers Gnocchi alla Siciliana Green pasta with blue cheese Golden veggie shepherd’s pie Grilled vegetable bloomers Khao suey Orecchiette with broccoli and wine sauce Pasta with peppers, raisins and almonds Red onion, feta and olive tart Rice and peas Ricotta and basil pizza Roasted vegetables
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DESSERTS, BREAKFASTS & BAKING T T T T 120 Chocolate cookies T T T T 200 Chocolate fondant T T T T 40 Ginger truffles T T T T 122 Honey nutter T T T T 112 Mango crèma Catalana T T T T 160 New York cheesecake T T T T 112 Spanish churros T T T T 162 Tiramisu JAIN T T T T 40
T T T T 60 T T T T 40 T T T T 114 T T T T 40 T T T T108 T T T T 40 T T T T 190 DRINKS T T T T 54 T T T T 96 T T T T 54 T T T T 54 T T T T 54
Chocolate mousse Corn salad Hot chilli chocolates Marzipan Mocha mousse chocolates Orange and prune sauce Orange truffles Pumpkin soup
Cranberry sangria
Ginger lemon fizz
Italian sgroppino Mexican michelada Middle Eastern rose martini NOVEMBER 2012
Photograph ASHISH CHAWLA, Prop courtesy FABINDIA, THE SHOP, FCML HOME
MAINS Egg T T T T 94
T T T T 78
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Shop talk AHMEDABAD Organic Haus Oriental House, S V Kinariwala Road, Law Garden Tel: +91 79 26445593 BENGALURU Foodhall MG Mall, Trinity Usoor. Foodworld Gourmet 301, Gottigere village, Uttarahalli village, Bannerghatta Main Road Tel: +91 80 32466586 Gourmet – Food World No 88, Shariff Bhatia Towers, MG Road Tel: +91 80 41474789 Nature’s Basket #755, 80 Feet Road, 4th Block, Next to Costa Coffee, Koramangala Tel: +91 80 41317401 Sorbet – The gourmet food store No 287, Varthur Road, Siddapura, Whitefield Tel: +91 80 28543245 CHENNAI Amma Nana Chamiers Road, opp Park Sheraton Hotel, Nandanam Tel: +91 44 24350596 Mercado No 64, Rukmani Road, Kalakshetra Colony, Besant Nagar Tel: +91 44 28173965 Nuts ‘n’ Spices New no. 75, Mahatma Gandhi Road, Nungambakkam Tel: +91 44 28268180, 42039351 HYDERABAD Nature’s Basket Urmila Towers, Road No. 10, Opp. Rainbow Hospital, Banjara Hills Tel: +91 40 23355399 NEW DELHI A- Mart A-1, Mahipalpur Extension, NH-8 Tel: +91 11 26789999 Ahuja Vegetable Store Shop no.- 37, INA Market Tel: +91 11 24644116 Allied Fruits and Florists 58-B, Khan Market, Lodhi Road Tel: +91 11 24642509 Ashok General Store 113, Main Market, Opposite Dilli Haat, INA Market Tel: +91 11 24617561 Dubden Green 4-A, Near Electric Sub Station, Shahpur Jat Tel: +91 11 32905310, +91 9810131343 NOVEMBER 2012
Where to find everything from paprika to piri piri sauce
Flanders Dairy – The Cheese Ball 31 Mehr Chand Market, Lodhi Road Tel: +91 11 24653789 Fortune Gourmet 144/9, Ground Floor, Kishangarh, Vasant Kunj Tel: +91 11 65642270/ 9868899956 Gogia’s 280, Main road, INA Market Tel: +91 11 24624809/ 24644618 INA Market Aurobindo Marg, INA Colony, Opposite Dilli Haat Le Marche 58, Basant Lok, Vasant Vihar, Near Priya Cinema Tel: +91 11 43232100/41669111 Master’s Bakers G-33, Usha Chambers, Community Centre, Ashok Vihar Tel: +91 11 27419061/ 27430734 Modern Bazaar 18-B, Community Centre, Basant Lok, Vasant Vihar Tel: +91 11 41669777 Nature’s Basket Ground floor, D /15, Between BP Petrol Pump and Def. Col. Flyover Tel: +91 11 46698777 46, Basant Lok, Vasant Vihar, Ground floor & basement Tel: +91 11 40571919
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Palkit Impex C-82, Basement, Shivalik, Malviya Nagar. Tel: +91 11 26673437 Passion Cheese Select Citywalk Mall, District Centre, Saket. Tel: +91 11 40599916 Pigpo 9 Jor Bagh Market Tel: +91 11 24611723/ 24626930 Steak House 13/8 Jor Bagh Market Tel: +91 11 24611008/ 24611129 The French Farmer Tel: Call Roger Langbour +91 9810166196, +91 11 26359701 Yamato Ya –The Japanese Store B-6/9, Safdarjung Enclave, Near Deer Park Tel: +91 11 41650164 GURGAON Kim’s Mart DT Mega Mall, LG 36, Gurgaon Tel: +91 124 2562189 Nature’s Basket S-201, 2nd Floor, Ambience Mall, Ambience Island, NH-8 Tel: +91 124 4665753 KOLKATA Afraa Deli City Centre, Salt Lake Tel: +91 33 23581111
Gourmet Gallery 27/9C, Chandi Ghosh Road, Regent Park Tel: +91 33 23818510 MUMBAI Country of Origin Maneesha Building, 69/A, Napean Sea Road, Malabar Hill Tel: +91 22 23642221 Dolce Vita Ground Floor, Grand Galleria, High Street Phoenix, Phoenix Mills, Lower Parel. Tel: +91 22 24964307 Food Bazaar Infinity Mall, Raheja Classic, New Link Road, Andheri (W) Tel: +91 22 67583090 Foodhall Palladium, High Street Phoenix, Senapati Bapat Marg, Lower Parel Tel: +91 22 30264581 Gourmet West Westside, Army and Navy Building, 148 M.G. Road, Kala Ghoda. Tel: +91 22 66360499 Hypercity Ground Floor, Malad (W) Tel: +91 22 40501300 Lallu & brothers Shop no 1&2, Pali Market, Pali Hill Road, Pali Hill, Bandra (W) Tel: +91 22 26409295 Nature’s Basket 227, Samarth Vaibhav Building, Opposite Tarapur Towers, Adarsh Nagar, Lokhandwala, Andheri (W) Tel: +91 22 26300766 Shop No 4, BG-India , Hiranandani Gardens, Powai Tel: +91 22 25707706 2-5 Parul Apartment, Juhu Tara Road, Juhu Tel: +91 22 26117893 133, Hill Road, Bandra (W) Tel: +91 22 26425050 Opp. Mahalaxmi Temple , Warden Road, Mahalaxmi, Tel: +91 22 23526775
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Patel stores Near Mehboob Studio, Krishnachandra Marg, Bandra (W) Tel: +91 22 26558909 Ratna stores Haware Parekh, Sion-Trombay Road, Opposite Union Park, Chembur. Tel: +91 22 25203389 Regal Plus 1, Lourdes Haven, 10/A, Pali Naka, Bandra (W) Tel: + 91 22 26041204/ 26041208/ 26465070
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Reliance Fresh Crystal Paradise Mall, DuttaJi Salavi Road, Off Veera Desai Road, Opposite Janaki Centre, Link Road, Andheri (W). Tel: +91 22 26743750 Framroze Court, Phalke Road, Dadar (E). Tel: +91 22 24155017 Santé Shop Number 1, Sahina Apartments, Pali Market, Bandra (W) Tel: +91 22 40060020 Spencer’s Hyper Market 1406A/28A, Malad (W) Tel: +91 22 42686130 Tutto Bene Delicatessen Spencer’s Hyper Market, Ground Floor, Located in Inorbit Mall, Malad (W) Tel: +91 9823485988
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PUNE Dorabjee & Co Pvt Ltd B-1, Moledina Road, Camp Cantonment Tel: +91 20 26052883 Nature’s Basket Mansur Ali Tower, 3, Galaxy Society, Max Mueller Lane, Near AXIS Bank, Dhole Patil Road Tel: +91 20 26160540 Shop No. 155/1A, Kumar Crystal Aundh. Tel: +91 20 25889530 Providore GF 104, Anand Park, Baner Road, Aundh Tel: +91 20 65601551 Tutto Bene Delicatessen Shop No 1, Princeton Flair, Lane No 8, Koregaon Park Tel: +91 20 66077193 Tutto Bene Delicatessen G 14 Sacred World Mall, Wanowrie. Tel: +91 20 26806933
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Gourmet Websites Delicious Now www.deliciousnow.com Farm2kitchen www.farm2kitchen.com Foodesto www.foodesto.com Foodzig www.foodzig.com Gourmet Company www.gourmetco.in Houseproud www.houseproud.in Local Banya www.localbanya.com Olive Tree Trading www.olivetreetrading.com Zansaar www.zansaar.com BBC GoodFood 209
last bite rhizomes
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Vibrant on the palate as well as on the plate, fresh turmeric root and ginger mango (amba haldi) get our vote for their potent medicinal properties
Frames 123RF/ IHAR BALAIKIN, 123RF/ ANDREY EREMIN
Words VIDYA BALACHANDER Photographs RITAM BANERJEE
TURMERIC ROOT When you see fresh turmeric root piled up in baskets at the neighbourhood market, it has none of the startling fluorescence that distinguishes it from other spices in the kitchen. But slice it and the bright orange root reveals its true colours. Etymologically, fresh turmeric is called Curcuma longa and belongs to the ginger family. While the yellow spice made from dried turmeric root is an integral part of Indian cuisine, its medicinal properties are equally well known. The root has antiseptic, anti-microbial and anti-oxidant properties and is said to prevent cell damage by protecting them from free radicals. Studies have also shown that turmeric may be effective in slowing the advance of certain kinds of cancer. Compared to ginger root and galangal, fresh turmeric has a mild yet distinct taste. The fresh root is usually pickled in brine or added to curries to lend them a warm colour and a slight peppery heat. The fresh root is a popular ingredient in Thai cuisine, and is commonly added to seafood dishes. The best way to enjoy this seasonal gem is to eat it fresh—simply grate a small piece into a salad for a burst of colour and texture. Turmeric root mainly is mainly cultivated in the states of Andhra Pradesh, Tamil Nadu and Maharashtra. Fresh turmeric usually appears in vegetable markets from February to May. 210 BBC GoodFood
GINGER MANGO If there were a prize for the craftiest disguise in the world of rhizomes, ginger mango would be a strong contender. It looks like ginger and tastes a bit like raw mango. Yet it belongs to the turmeric family. This is why it is called amba haldi (literally, mango-turmeric) in Hindi and Marathi, and manga-inji (or mango ginger) in Tamil. Etymologically, ginger mango is called Curcuma amada. The rhizome has potent antibiotic, anti-fungal and anti-inflammatory properties. It has been used as a cure for indigestion and other stomach ills and is said to lower cholesterol as well. Research is being conducted to gauge its efficacy against certain kinds of cancer. To dull its acerbic aftertaste, ginger mango is most commonly pickled in brine either by itself or tossed together with sliced turmeric root. While it is usually eaten fresh, it is also cooked with tamarind into a savoury relish. It is sometimes used in curries to give them a sour tang. Its crunchy texture and complex flavour make it a particularly popular accompaniment to South Indian rice dishes. Ginger mango mainly grows in the wild, in the states of Himachal Pradesh, Maharashtra, West Bengal and Tamil Nadu. It is a highly seasonal product, usually available in the cooler months, from late monsoon to early winter. Since it is not as ubiquitous as ginger, it is relatively little known outside the states in which it is grown. It can be most commonly found in open markets in major cities.
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