BBC Good Food 2012-12 India

✓eat in✴eat out✴eat away

TRIPLETESTEDS RECIPE

+ 0 7

DECEMBER 2012 ` 100

India

50 stylish

PARTY WINNERS ✴FINGER FOOD ✴FEED A CROWD ✴BUDGET BITES

CHRISTMAS MADE EASY!

✴ROAST CHICKEN ✴ROSEMARY POTATOES ✴FRUIT CAKE

STRAWBERRY SHOW STEALERS

Strawberry & mascarpone cheesecake tart p 110

7 MEALS UNDER ` 700 EAT OUT Japanese restaurants on trial Pro vs Punter, Ellipsis

EAT AWAY Eat like a local, Mauritius

MASTERCLASS Alex Sanchez's step-by-step key lime pie Pairing wines with party dishes

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WorldMags.net For cooking, use in 1/3rd the quantity of other oils*

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Where’s the party?

Party central: All hail the perfect roast chicken. Make this your best Christmas ever with our classic menu that is full of festive spirit. From mulled wine and stuffed chicken to rosemary potatoes and Christmas pudding, our timehonoured recipes really hit the spot. Give these mainstays a go and see how easy it is to host an old-school Christmas feast. Three more terrific party menus await you in our Menu Masters feature on p 102. Oh, and you just have to try our delightful home-style Parsi line up with a dash of retro. P 85.

RED HAUTE! If this strawberry tart were any more classic, it would be in a museum! P 109

&

Strawberries dreams

These eye-popping strawberry desserts ooze wow factor. They’re almost too pretty to eat!

eat in show-off

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SUSHI OR YAKITORI? Find your perfect Japanese in this month’s Restaurant Spy. P 120

Strawberry dreams forever: It’s impossible not to love strawberries with their perky red colour, iconic heart shape and glossy juices oozing onto the plate. A simple bowl of strawberries, lightly drizzled with a lick of cream, is hard to beat. But there’s no denying they make divine desserts, so we’ve made these prime-time sensations the stars of our Show-off section. To turn them out at their head-turning best, try this month’s cover recipe. I guarantee our Strawberry-Mascarpone Cheesecake Tart is the smartest, simplest tart you’ll ever make. Love us, love our kitchen: I have a bugbear: Recipes that don’t work. There are a shocking number of them in blogs, websites and cookbooks, but at Good Food, we know the importance of testing, testing and testing again. The Good Food Kitchen is where we put each recipe we feature in the magazine to its paces (not once but a whopping three times). That’s why our recipes always deliver, giving you the confidence to make them at home with 100 per cent success. How do we know that a dish has passed muster? When we can’t stop eating it even when we’re stuffed! Get a sneak peek on p 26.

So here’s December on your plate, a month’s worth of delicious ideas, recipes and tricks to suit very occasion, energy level (including no-cook dishes like Little Prawn Poppadums, my favourite) and budget. We’ve even paired wines to go with your party dishes in our Wine Guide on p 147. So whether you’re making trial Restaurants on classic roast or biryani, your celebration will go swimmingly. eat out restaurant spy

Japanese

eat out restaurant spy

into its food? restaurant packs the most flavour Grain for grain, which Japanese test We put seven restaurants to the

food is the latest to freshest ingredients, Japanese light and highlighting the contemporary, from across HOW WE DID IT Sophisticated, restaurants, both classic and Indians. We pick seven high-quality capture the imagination of cuisine. well they represent this exquisite the country and evaluate how

MEGU, New Delhi

MEGU’s main dining room has a glass Buddha idol

this Ever since it opened earlier year, MEGU has been a favourite of both for the undoubted quality warm, the ingredients as well as the attentive and unobtrusive service. the True, the restaurant is among it is a most expensive in India, but meal well worth the price. Despite the decor being obviously luxurious, For it is a likeable and warm space. our meal, we order Crispy Wasabi This Prawns with Mango Sauce. shrimp popular dish is a take on rock batter tempura. Thanks to the rice retain used to coat them, the prawns The their crunch despite the sauce. it is best bit about the dish is that served with a spoonful of highly that potent wasabi oil. Considering a tame most restaurants serve you from version of wasabi assembled paste or powder, MEGU emphasises grated on the fact that fresh wasabi is takes oil wasabi the But plate. to your Tail things a notch higher. The Yellow oil Carpaccio brushed with grapeseed paste) with kanzuri (a fermented chilli there’s on top is a MEGU classic and Shira nothing to fault here. But the Ae, a vegetarian dish, surprisingly been has steals the show. This dish specially concocted for the India

and market. It is made with spinach sauce, tofu crumbled into a sesame topped with crunchy rice crackers squash. It and lined with finely sliced For the is nothing short of addictive. classic mains, we order the MEGU perfectly White Cod Miso. The fish is cooked and its distinctive flavour shines through despite the strong the taste of miso. For desserts, try the lovely Wasabi Cheesecake over Ice Cream Creme Brulee with Wasabi that we sample this time.

n BESTSELLERS

Shira Ae, Rock Shrimp Tempura, Wagyu Skewers, Yellow Tail Carpaccio.

n PROVENANCE

Almost three fourths of the ingredients are imported, including from kanzuri (made of red chillies regions Nigata, one of the snowiest yellow of Japan), and wasabi oil to like tail and wagyu beef. Veggies tomatoes eggplant, carrots, okra and are organic and locally sourced.

n WHAT TO DRINK

menu MEGU has an extensive sake sparkling that includes the only pink Shu). sake in India (Hana Hou Hou a fresh, We try the barley sochu and Ginjo well-rounded Rihaku Junmai are sake (` 2,000 per carafe), which both good.

Quality: 8.5/10 Atmosphere: 8.5/10 Provenance: 9/10 Choice: 8/10 Value: 8/10 Total: 42/50

— Anoothi Vishal

n INSIDER TIP

menu for The recently introduced set lunch offers great value. A threejust course lunch could cost you pay about ` 1,800-2,500, since you the only for the main course, while appetiser and dessert are free.

n DETAILS

Leela Palace Hotel, Chanakyapuri, Starters Delhi. Tel: +91 11 39331234. ` 700 onwards; mains ` 1,000 onwards; desserts ` 600.

n GO FOR SUSHI OR TEPPANYAKI?

Sushi. The sushi menu includes standouts such as a black truffleNigiri yellow tail Nigiri, yellow tail and with kanzuri and fresh jalapeno the classic seared tuna nigiri.

Salmon Tartare

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Signing off now. Happy Christmas. And don’t forget that we love to hear from you—whether you’ve been inspired by something in the latest issue or a foodie experience on your travels, tell us all about it by writing to [email protected]. Have a ball.

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Sona Bahadur, editor

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KNOW YOUR STUFF(ING)! Simple steps to perfect stuffed chicken, a Christmas stalwart. P 94 eat in entertaining

Recipe JENNY WHITE Photographs YUKI SUGIURA Styling RACHEL JUKES Food styling JENNY WHITE

December equals happy times and celebrations, and we’ve infused this issue with dollops of spirited style. Our partyfriendly recipes are guaranteed to jolt your entertaining into high gear. The best part—we’ve taken the stress out of hosting so you can have as much fun as your guests.

GOOD FOOD STAR RECIPE

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STEP INTO OUR KITCHEN! It’s where we nibble, sip and engage with food every single day of the week. P 26 first look test kitchen

The brand new Good Food test

kitchen

and Kainaz Contractor flank Good Food’s Amit Pamnani Powai, in the kitchen Chef Jolly of Renaissance,

KitchenCONFIDENTIAL What simmers in the Good Food So what’s the deal about the Good Food kitchen?

Good Food At the core of the brand, the that all kitchen was created to ensure are tested the recipes in the magazine The and thus absolutely foolproof. kitchen also helps in the development of new recipes by the Good Food our kitchen team. Five days a week, recipe in kitchen staff triple tests every dish each that ensure to the magazine This comes out perfectly, every time. sessions is where we have our tasting as well.

What is the set-up like?

heart Located in Prabhadevi in the of Mumbai, the Good Food kitchen of is spacious and airy, with plenty of natural light. Quirky illustrations ingredients and cooking processes

IN A WEEK

✴ Recipes tested ✴ Eggs used up ✴ Doggy bags packed ✴ Packs of butter ✴ Oven burns ✴ Boo boos

40+ 20 5 24 2 3

(Even experts make mistakes!)

burners look kitchen each day? Here’s a behind-the-

have been adorn the kitchen walls that tastefully done up in black granite by and wood with metallic highlights Aga. well-known architect Urvaksh so The kitchen has four workstations different cooks can work independently The and not collide with one another. kitchen is stocked with two ovens, two stove one refrigerator, one cooler, wok tops, one grill, one high-pressure Asian burner for cooking South East would food and a host of utensils one of our normally use at home. None — most of appliances are terribly fancy use at these are items that you would We home. That’s precisely the point. appliances don’t want to use chef-style have because we know that you won’t them at home.

Who does the shopping?

delivery. We have a daily supermarket But we also scour the local markets food for ingredients. Organising the our shopping is a full-time job for lists intern, who creates long shopping day. every needed be about what will are Our fridges and store cupboards like always fully stocked — we don’t don’t like wasting food but we certainly middle to run out of ingredients in the of a hectic day of cooking.

Turn the page for more on our Test Kitchen

A DAY IN THE LIFE OF THE GOOD FOOD INDIA KITCHEN

finalised and the 10 am Recipes to be tested are done. ingredient shopping for the day the recipes is completed 11 am The mise-en-place for meats to be used in and cuts of the vegetables and each recipe noted. 1 pm Break for lunch. with each detail noted cooked, are Recipes pm 1:30 l of cooking down, including time taken, temperatures suited to the dish. and type of cooking vessel best the day’s dishes. The GF editorial l 5 pm Time to taste try the tested recipes team arrives in the kitchen to the cookery staff. and discuss comments with up. l 6 pm Kitchen is cleaned tallied. is expenditure day’s l 6:30 pm The l 7 pm It’s a wrap!

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AD SALES Director Ad Sales & Business Development Jyoti Verma [email protected]

Chief Executive Officer Tarun Rai Editor Sona Bahadur Chief Copy and Features Editor Senior Features Writer Senior Features Writer Junior Food Editor Consulting Editor

Meher Mirza Vidya Balachander Priyanka Hosangadi Kainaz Contractor Camellia Panjabi

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Chief Financial Officer Subramaniam S Publisher, Print and Production Controller Joji Varghese UK TEAM Group Editorial Director Nicholas Brett Editor Good Food Gillian Carter Creative Director Food Group Elizabeth Galbraith Food Director Food Group Lulu Grimes Publishing Director Alfie Lewis

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Good Food is published by Worldwide Media Pvt. Ltd. under licence from BBC Worldwide Limited, Media Centre, 201 Wood Lane, London W12 7TQ. The BBC logo is a trade mark of the British Broadcasting Corporation and are used under licence by Immediate Media Company London Limited. Copyright © Immediate Media Company London Limited All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part prohibited without permission. The publisher makes every effort to ensure that the magazine’s contents are correct. However we accept no responsibility for any errors or omissions. Unsolicited material, including photographs and transparencies, is submitted entirely at the owner’s risk & the publisher accepts no responsibility for its loss or damage. Submissions to the magazine may also be used on the publication’s related platforms. Good Food Magazine India is not responsible for any controversies that may arise thereof. All material published in Good Food is protected by copyright and unauthorised reproduction in part or full is forbidden.

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COOK OUR COVER RECIPE!

Strawberry and mascarpone cheesecake tart

Recipe JANINE RATCLIFFE Photograph GARETH MORGANS Styling JENNY IGGLEDEN Food styling SAL HENLEY

Serves 8 n 50 minutes + cooling and chilling n EASY mascarpone 250g (try Zenetti available at gourmet stores) hung curd 150g double cream 150ml (available at your local dairy) icing sugar 3 tbsp (try Bluebird available at gourmet stores) vanilla extract 2 tsp strawberries 750g, small, cored and halved THE SHORTCRUST PASTRY plain flour 225g butter 100g, chilled and cubed salt a pinch n To make the pastry, sift the flour into a large bowl, add the butter and rub in with your fingertips until the mixture resembles fine breadcrumbs. Stir in the salt, then add 2-3 tbsp water and mix to a firm dough. Knead the dough briefly and gently on a floured surface. Wrap in cling-film and chill while

Contents 104

172

110 preparing the filling. n Heat the oven to 190°C. Roll out the pastry to coin-size thickness and use it to line a straight-sided, loose-bottomed 20-cm sponge tin. Leave the excess pastry over hanging to avoid shrinkage. Fill with baking paper and baking beans and bake for 15 minutes. Take out the paper and beans and keep baking for another 15 minutes until the pastry is cooked through and golden. Trim the excess pastry then leave in the tin to cool completely. n Beat the mascarpone until smooth then add the yoghurt, cream, 1 tbsp icing sugar and vanilla and beat together until really thick. Spoon into the cool pastry case and level. Cover with strawberries and put in the fridge to chill for 2 hours. n Put the remaining strawberries in a food processor with the rest of the icing sugar. Whizz to a purée and sieve to remove seeds. Serve the tart with the strawberry purée spooned over just before serving. n PER SERVING 523 kcals, protein 6.7g, carbs 35g, fat 39g, sat fat 21g, fibre 2.6g, salt 0.6g

ALL YOUR FAVOURITE MAGAZINES ARE JUST A CLICK AWAY! Now, subscribing to BBC Good Food India (and all your other favourites like Femina, GoodHomes, Lonely Planet, Filmfare and others) just requires a click of the mouse! Log on to mags. timesgroup.com. Simply fill your cart with your favourite magazines and pay right from your desk. Plus get great discounts and really exciting gift offers! Log in now!

94

120

eat in

eat out

Inspiring, seasonal recipes that work every time

Restaurants on trial and cafés with character

66 7 MEALS FOR `700

120 RESTAURANT SPY

74 READY IN 30

128 PRO VS PUNTER

A week’s worth of stylish meals Quick and simple recipes

80 MODERN VEGGIE

Hearty low-fat suppers

85 WEEKEND

Parsi food beyond dhansak

94 ENTERTAINING

Try our classic Christmas spread

102 MENU MASTERS

A party menu just right for you

109 SHOW-OFF COOKING Showstopper strawberry puds

148 SUBSCRIBE to Good Food India

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Japanese restaurants on trial Ellipsis, Mumbai

special features 26 KITCHEN CONFIDENTIAL

An insider’s look at our test kitchen

32 CELEBRATING GOOD FOOD DAY All the action from the daylong food revelry

WorldMags.net December 2012 62 BOOKS & COOKS

Top new foodie reads

64 NIGHT OUT

Fizzy Champagne cocktails

masterclass 135 COOK LIKE A PRO

130 eat away

A handy infuser for that extra finesse

136 CHEF SKILLS

Alex Sanchez’s stepby-step key lime pie masterclass

Foodie holiday ideas and recipes from around the world

140 DO IT YOURSELF

130 EAT LIKE A LOCAL: MAURITIUS

147 WINE GUIDE

A menu of fusion flavours

first bite 14 OVER TO YOU

Make the perfect marshmallows

Wines to match your party dishes

96

Mulled wine cocktail

Out & about

JUST A FEW GOOD PLACES TO EAT FEATURED THIS MONTH

154 MY LIFE ON A PLATE Author Chetan Bhagat dishes about his foodie side

Italy UK

Reader recipes, comments and letters

n

n

Cute snowmen for your Xmas cake

Tortilla chips and garlic presses

52 BARGAIN HUNTER

Best value foodie events, meals and deals

54 NEED TO KNOW Colourful Madras cucumbers

58 FOOD ISSUE

Good fat versus bad fat

New Delhi

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Spain

n

n nn n n nn

France

Mexico

44 NEWS, TRENDS AND SHOPPING 50 ON TEST

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41 FIRST BITE

Fresh finds, trends and more

Japan

Greece n

Pune

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Thailand Chennai

Mumbai Bengaluru

PRO vs PUNTER

Feel like the average diner doesn’t always agree with professional reviews? Become our punter in the ‘Pro vs Punter’ section and review a restaurant along with a seasoned pro. To apply, write to us at [email protected].

THE BBC GOODFOOD LEGACY

T BBC GoodFood is the UK’s largest selling food magazine with a readership of over 1.1 million. T bbcgoodfood.com is the UK’s most popular recipe site attracting 3.7 million unique users per month. T The hugely successful iPhone & iPad apps have had over 70,000 downloads till date.

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Over to you For top restaurant, recipe and travel tips, we ask you, our readers, to keep us on the pulse

Write to us! We love hearing from you. E-mail us your feedback, your favourite recipes and your comments at [email protected]. Let’s be in touch!

FOOD NATION Bengaluru GOOD FOOD STAR RECIPE

Roast chicken with bacon stuffing Serves 8 n 1 hour 30 minutes + resting n A LITTLE EFFORT breadcrumbs 125g onion 1, chopped garlic cloves 2, chopped bacon 125g, diced salt and pepper to taste chickens 2 medium, with skin on (approx 1.8kg each) butter 50g plain flour 2 tbsp chicken stock 300ml white wine 1 glass n Heat the oven to 200°C. Make the stuffing for the chickens by whizzing the breadcrumbs, onion and garlic in a food processor. Stir in the bacon and season. 14 BBC GoodFood

n Stuff the neck end of the chickens with the stuffing, smooth the skin back over and secure with a cocktail stick. Put both chickens in a large roasting tin and smear them with butter. Season, then put in the oven for an hour or until cooked through and the skin is golden and crisp. n Check the chickens are cooked through, then transfer to a board to rest and cover with foil. To make the gravy, sit the roasting tin over a medium flame on the hob and stir in 2 tbsp plain flour and cook for 1 minute. Stir in the white wine and the chicken stock. Bring to a simmer and bubble for 5 minutes. n PER SERVING 481 kcals, protein 53.23g, carbs 15.98g, fat 19.41g, sat fat 4.93g, fibre 0.68g, salt 0.3g

Good Food reader Aslam Gafoor on his favourite places to eat in his city T BREAKAST Start your day with a walk culminating in breakfast under the banyan tree at Airlines Hotel (+91 80 22273783). Have the crispy masala dosa with delicious sambhar and coconut chutney. Don’t forget to try the best filter coffee served in town. T LUNCH An all-time favourite is the vegetarian saapad served on a plantain leaf at Bengaluru’s best-kept secret, Sunheri at Woodlands Hotel (+91 80 22225111). It is a traditional meal with puris, vegetables, sambhar and papad, finished with beeda and a banana. T DINNER Nothing surpasses the seafood dishes at Sana-di-ge, Goldfinch Hotel (+91 80 41291300). This restaurant specialises in Mangalorean/coastal cuisine and my favourites here are the kane fish masala fry, prawn curry, neer dosa, boiled rice and ghee roast chicken. The fuss-free Mughlai-Persian eatery, Chichaba’s Taj (+91 80 41618888) serves delectable rogan josh, nihari and dum gosht biryani.

HOW YOU PIMPED IT I used a mix of butter and olive to rub all over the chicken and scattered over some dry mixed herbs that resulted in a lovely crisp skin. If you like your stuffing chunky, roughly chop the onions and garlic — I love the bite that gives. I added half a lemon with the stuffing for a citrusy hit. I had to thin out my stock slightly because it was quite salty, but the gravy was heavenly — smooth and rich. It made for an unforgettable meal. Charis Bhagianathan is a food blogger who lives in Delhi. She blogs at culinarystorm.com.

JOIN OUR TASTE TEAM Our Taste team comprises readers and home cooks who try our recipes and give us feedback on what they liked and what they would do differently. Write to us at [email protected] to join us.

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DECEMBER 2012

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over to you readers write

55%

Chocolate fondant

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18% Key lime pie

9%

INSIDERS’ POLL

18%

Strawberry cheesecake

Christmas pudding

Which of these desserts would you like to serve at your next party?

LETTER Dear Editor  OF THE Kudos for putting together MONTH the anniversary issue. My ex-boyfriend recently returned from Australia with his Australian wife and I invited them over. His wife was under the weather since her arrival in India, so I was forewarned to keep the food light. I’m a vegetarian, so there are limitations to cooking for a foreigner. I made the tempura, chipotle pepper salsa and the New York cheeseecake featured in your November issue. They relished the tempura so much that I had to prepare additional batter! I teamed the salsa with nachos, and the salsa was the superhero. Perhaps I made my ex cringe slightly for wanting me back for the delicious food. We had a wonderful time and I have been proclaimed a domesetic goddess! Thank you, Good Food, for making me feel so aweseome! Priyanka Arora, Ludhiana The winner of the letter of the month for this issue wins a special festive hamper worth ` 5,000 from Foodhall. The hamper is filled with tempting goodies like Kalamata olives, extra virgin olive oil, penne rigate, basil crackers , chocolate fondue, Lemnos jalapeno cream cheese  and Jamie Oliver’s chilli salt . To write in to the magazine, e-mail us at bbcgoodfood@ wwm.co.in and include your address and telephone number. 

16 BBC GoodFood

READER RECIPE OF THE MONTH Stephanie Lobo shares her recipe for the festive season

Christmas cookies Makes 30 pieces n 30 minutes n EASY plain flour 350g + extra for dusting ginger 3 tbsp, ground bicarbonate of soda 1 tsp butter 100g, softened demerara sugar 175g egg 1, beaten golden syrup or honey 4 tbsp THE ICING icing sugar 12 g lemon juice 2 tbsp n Pre-heat the oven to 180˚C. Line the baking tray

with a baking sheet. n Sift the flour, ginger and bicarbonate of soda together in a bowl. Add the butter and rub into the flour until the mixture resembles fine breadcrumbs, then stir in the demerara sugar. n In another bowl, beat together the egg and golden syrup with a fork. Pour this mixture into the flour mixture and mix to make a smooth dough, kneading lightly with your hands. n Roll the dough out on a lightly floured work surface to about a 5 mm thickness and cut into shapes using a snowflake cutter (you can also use a gingerbread man cutter here). n Transfer the cut cookies to the baking sheets. n Bake in the pre-heated oven for 10 minutes, or until golden brown. Remove the cookies from the oven and

allow to cool for 5 minutes before transferring to a wire rack to cool completely. n Once the cookies are cool, mix together the icing sugar and lemon juice until smooth and place into a piping bag/ cone fitted with a very fine nozzle. Pipe snowflake shapes onto each biscuit, using the icing. Leave to set for about an hour at room temperature.

The winner of the Reader Recipe of the Month wins a special gift hamper worth ` 4,500 from Gourmet Company (gourmetco.in), an online gourmet store. The hamper contains a fondue set for 4 people, a chocolate fondue pack, marshmallows, shortbreads, fresh strawberries or dried fruit. To win the hamper, write down your favourite recipe, attach a photograph of the dish that is at least 1 MB in size, along with a photograph of yourself that is at least 500 KB in size and e-mail it to us at [email protected] with the subject line ‘Reader Recipe’. Don’t forget your address and telephone number! Interact with other Good Food readers on Facebook at facebook.com/GoodFood MagazineIndia or follow us on Twitter at twitter.com/goodfoodmagin.

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DECEMBER 2012

Amarena Cherries

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Olive Oil Soaps

Artichokes

Olive Oils

Beans

Olives

Biscotti

Pasta

Bread Toppings and Paté

Pasta Sauces

Breads

Rice

Breakfast Cereals

Sea Salt

Capers

Soymilk

Customized Hampers

Flours

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Tofu

online store

Tomatoes

Green Peppers

Truffles and Mushrooms

Japanese

Vinegars WorldMags.net

In this issue



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ALEX SANCHEZ

Alex Sanchez is the executive chef of The Table restaurant in Mumbai. He graduated from the Culinary Institute of America and earned his stripes working in prestigious restaurants in the San Francisco Bay area. Before he relocated to Mumbai, he worked at Michelin-starred restaurants Manresa and Michael Mina in San Francisco. In the last two years, Sanchez has won accolades for his simple yet inventive approach to cooking with a focus on using fresh local ingredients. Sanchez shows you how to make the perfect key lime pie in his step-by-step Masterclass on p 136.

 KIRAN MEHTA



CHETAN BHAGAT

Chetan Bhagat is an author, columnist and motivational speaker based in Mumbai. Bhagat is the author of five bestselling novels including Five Point Someone, One Night @ The Call Centre, The Three Mistakes of My Life, Two States and Revolution 20:20. The blockbuster Bollywood movie 3 Idiots is loosely adapted from his novel Five Point Someone. Bhagat tells us about his guilty indulgence — chocolate — and what he considers comfort food in My Life on a Plate on p 154.



Kiran Mehta is a freelance food, fashion, travel and lifestyle writer based in Mumbai. She has contributed to a number of publications including The Times of India, Femina, BBC Good Homes and Jet Wings, among others. Mehta writes about the multicultural influences that set apart Mauritian cuisine in Eat Like a Local, p 130.

ROHAN JELKIE Rohan Jelkie is a wine and spirits expert based in New Delhi. He graduated in hospitality management and worked in the field of bartending before taking up his current role as senior manager in charge of Beverage Education and Training at Tulleeho!, a beverage consultancy and training company. Jelkie shows you which wines to pair with your party dishes in this month’s Wine Guide, p 147.

18 BBC GoodFood

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DECEMBER 2012

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THE FOOD IMAGE AGENCY

Special Discount Pricing for GoodFood readers!

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Get to know us

Our five easy-to-navigate sections enable you to find exactly what you are looking for. Here’s what you can expect to see in every issue of Good Food India: first bite news, trends, shopping

first bite

Let it snow Spend a few fun hours baking a traditional Christmas cake, then have fun decorating it

first bite news, trends, shopping

Have your cake... and decorate it too! These cute little snowmen are a real delight Snowman Xmas cake Serves 8 ■ 2 hours + 40 minutes ■ A LITTLE EFFORT basic Christmas cake 1 ( find recipe on p 98)

FOR SKILLED COOKS

Instead of using the traditional pudding basin (as seen on p 98) use a deep, 23cm loose-bottomed greased cake tin. For the decoration, you can buy Wilton products such as fondant icing and food colouring on gourmet.co.in. Buy Strawberry Laces at gourmet stores such as Foodhall, Hypercity or Godrej Nature’s Basket.

Words SARAH COOK Photographs STUART OVENDEN Styling TONY HUTCHINSON Food styling SARAH COOK

■ ICE THE CAKE Take 85g spiced berry syrup (recipe on p 98) and brush a little all over the Xmas cake (or any 23cm cake). On a clean surface lightly dusted with a little sifted icing sugar, roll out 750g marzipan to a circle large enough to cover the cake – use a piece of kitchen string to help you check. Lift up the marzipan by hanging it over your rolling pin, then drape over the cake. Gently pat and smooth the marzipan down the sides of the cake, then trim any excess from the bottom. Colour 1kg ready-to-roll icing from 2 x 1kg packs with a little blue food colouring, then cover the marzipan using the same method as you covered the cake, firstly brushing the marzipan with more berry syrup. Trim the base. ■ ADD SOME SNOW Use your hands to roll 2/3 of the remaining fondant icing into a long, thin sausage on an icing sugar-dusted surface. It should be long enough to go round the cake – use a piece of kitchen string to help you measure it. Use a rolling pin to roll the sausage into a strip about 5cm wide. Use a sharp knife to straighten one edge, trim the other into a wiggly edge.

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Keep all the trimmings, and squash half into 2 wobbly circles for the snowmen to sit on. Brush the strip, circles and the very bottom edge of the cake with a little runny icing made with 100g sifted icing sugar and a splash of water. Scatter 85g desiccated coconut over the strip and circles, gently pressing to stick and cover. Starting with one end of the strip, stick it round the base of the cake. Simply halve the icing from the start and do in 2 half-length strips, using a little more coconut to hide the joins on the cake.

DON’T FORGET! It’s a good idea to remove the cocktail stick ‘arms’ before cutting and serving your cake – just to be on the safe side.

■ SHAPE THE SNOWMEN Roll the remaining third of icing into 2 large balls, 2 medium balls and 2 small balls. Stick together, squashing slightly, into 2 snowmen. Brush 4 cocktail sticks with a little brown food colouring and stick into the snowmen for arms. Remove before cutting the cake. with your thumb where it will sit on the snowman’s head. Roll a little ball to stick on top of the hat; attach it with more runny icing. Then roll and cut a thin strip to stick round the base of the hat. Use a cocktail stick to make markings like a woolly hat and rough up the ball on top. A little more runny icing will help it stick onto the snowman’s head.

■ ADD BUTTONS AND NOSES Push a few whole cloves into one snowman as buttons. Use a little orange food colouring to dye a little of the strip trimmings, and shape a little around the pointy end of 2 cloves to look like carrot noses. Use another clove to make little holes where the noses will go, dab a bit of runny icing into the holes and stick on the noses, pushing them into the holes to help hold them.

■ AND LASTLY, THE SCARF Knot 3 strawberry laces together at one end. Tightly plait a 10cm length and knot at the end again. Using scissors, snip the ends, leaving about 1cm for tassels after the knot, then wrap around the neck of the other snowman. Sit the wobbly snowy islands and snowmen on top of the cake. ■ PER SERVING 1,371 kcals, protein 11g, carbs 247g, fat 44g, sat fat 19g, fibre 7g, sugar 232g, salt 0.96g

■ SMILEY FACES Use the round end of a toothpick and melted chocolate to make the smiley mouths and eyes. ■ MAKE THE HAT Dye another lump of icing trimmings with food colouring (we used green). Shape most into a woolly hat shape, pressing a slight dip into the bottom

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T First Bite Our opening section is the perfect appetiser for the pages that follow. First Bite brings you the month’s freshest food buzz — new launches, events, great bargains, supermarket sweeps, health tips on food and more. In every issue we spotlight local produce in season in Need To Know. And our Good Food Investigates pieces delve deep into important food issues to bring you insights that really matter to you. P 41

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eat in entertaining

Menu masters Whether you want stress-free party food to feed a crowd or are on a budget, one of these clever menus will fit the bill

T Eat In The largest section of the magazine, Eat In is packed with fabulous recipes with little tips and tricks that are perfect for the home cook. Each recipe is triple-tested by us so you get it right the very first time you make it. We’ve got everything covered — from easy everyday dinners and show-off menus for the weekend to modern veggie dishes and seasonal recipes bursting with the month’s flavours. P 65

Recipes JANINE RATCLIFFE Photographs GARETH MORGANS

Recipe on p 108

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eat out restaurant spy

eat out restaurant spy

Restaurants on trial

Japanese Grain for grain, which Japanese restaurant packs the most flavour into its food? We put seven restaurants to the test

HOW WE DID IT Sophisticated, light and highlighting the freshest ingredients, Japanese food is the latest to capture the imagination of Indians. We pick seven high-quality restaurants, both classic and contemporary, from across the country and evaluate how well they represent this exquisite cuisine.

MEGU, New Delhi

MEGU’s main dining room has a glass Buddha idol

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Ever since it opened earlier this year, MEGU has been a favourite both for the undoubted quality of the ingredients as well as the warm, attentive and unobtrusive service. True, the restaurant is among the most expensive in India, but it is a meal well worth the price. Despite the decor being obviously luxurious, it is a likeable and warm space. For our meal, we order Crispy Wasabi Prawns with Mango Sauce. This popular dish is a take on rock shrimp tempura. Thanks to the rice batter used to coat them, the prawns retain their crunch despite the sauce. The best bit about the dish is that it is served with a spoonful of highly potent wasabi oil. Considering that most restaurants serve you a tame version of wasabi assembled from paste or powder, MEGU emphasises the fact that fresh wasabi is grated on to your plate. But the wasabi oil takes things a notch higher. The Yellow Tail Carpaccio brushed with grapeseed oil with kanzuri (a fermented chilli paste) on top is a MEGU classic and there’s nothing to fault here. But the Shira Ae, a vegetarian dish, surprisingly steals the show. This dish has been specially concocted for the India

market. It is made with spinach and tofu crumbled into a sesame sauce, topped with crunchy rice crackers and lined with finely sliced squash. It is nothing short of addictive. For the mains, we order the MEGU classic White Cod Miso. The fish is perfectly cooked and its distinctive flavour shines through despite the strong taste of miso. For desserts, try the lovely Wasabi Cheesecake over the Creme Brulee with Wasabi Ice Cream that we sample this time.

n BESTSELLERS Shira Ae, Rock Shrimp Tempura, Wagyu Skewers, Yellow Tail Carpaccio.

n PROVENANCE Almost three fourths of the ingredients are imported, including kanzuri (made of red chillies from Nigata, one of the snowiest regions of Japan), and wasabi oil to yellow tail and wagyu beef. Veggies like eggplant, carrots, okra and tomatoes are organic and locally sourced.

n WHAT TO DRINK MEGU has an extensive sake menu that includes the only pink sparkling sake in India (Hana Hou Hou Shu). We try the barley sochu and a fresh, well-rounded Rihaku Junmai Ginjo sake (` 2,000 per carafe), which are both good.

n INSIDER TIP

Quality: 8.5/10 Atmosphere: 8.5/10 Provenance: 9/10 Choice: 8/10 Value: 8/10 Total: 42/50

— Anoothi Vishal

The recently introduced set menu for lunch offers great value. A threecourse lunch could cost you just about ` 1,800-2,500, since you pay only for the main course, while the appetiser and dessert are free.

n DETAILS Leela Palace Hotel, Chanakyapuri, Delhi. Tel: +91 11 39331234. Starters ` 700 onwards; mains ` 1,000 onwards; desserts ` 600.

n GO FOR SUSHI OR TEPPANYAKI? Sushi. The sushi menu includes standouts such as a black truffleyellow tail Nigiri, yellow tail Nigiri with kanzuri and fresh jalapeno and the classic seared tuna nigiri.

T Eat Out This section stands out for its uniquely-positioned restaurant reviews and features that are authoritative, objective and reliable. A novel approach to restaurant reviews, our Pro vs Punter section enables a Good Food India reader to go undercover and rate a restaurant together with an expert. Plus, we get leading chefs from around the country to simplify their signature recipes to make at home. P 119

Salmon Tartare

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eat away mauritius

Eat like a local

Mauritius The eclectic flavours of Africa, Asia and Europe come together in the melting pot of Mauritian cuisine

T Eat Away

Selling bright red berries

EASY MENU FOR 4 T Peas and mint soup T Sautéed prawns and palm heart salad with tangy tomato and pineapple chutney T Red snapper vindaye with three-coloured peppers T Exotic fruit cannelloni

Our seasoned travel journalists and food experts (who are often residents of the featured locations) arm you with insider information and recipes from the world’s most exciting food destinations. Eat Like A Local brings easy, authentic menus from fantastic food destinations while Budget and Blowout shows you how to get your wallet’s worth when travelling. And City On the Plate features the insider’s food guide to an Indian state. P 130

Words KIRAN MEHTA Inputs and recipes CHEF PRAVIND JUGUN Photographs ANSHUMAN SEN

T

he first spectacle that greets visitors to Mauritius is the lush verdant tract along turquoise blue waters, framed within jagged hills. Add to this a rose-tinted sunset across the horizon and it is easy to understand why Mark Twain believed that “heaven was copied after Mauritius.” The idyllic beauty entices travellers instantly. According to Chef Pravind Jugun, Chef de Cuisine at Constance Le Prince Maurice, Mauritian food is eclectic, much like the people. Over the centuries, this pearl drop-shaped island in the Indian Ocean has been inhabited by the Portuguese, the Dutch, the French and the British who brought in Indian indentured labourers and Chinese workers. Each of these immigrants added their distinct seasoning to the traditional cuisine, resulting in an unusual jumble of European, African and Asian flavours that now comprises the typical Mauritian menu. A meal at a chic beach-front eatery typically starts with breaking some oven-fresh baguettes. Traditionally, in colloquial Creole, the term baguette encompasses a variety of buns and breads, served with spicy butter and an array of chutneys –- fiery red, zesty green –- and mango achard (or pickle). Mains are likely to include a tangy vegetable or chicken /mutton curry, served with a bowl of rice. In comparison to Indian cuisine, the curries here are not quite as peppery, yet far from bland, since they are

balanced with the right quantities of spices and herbs. Portuguese flavours are relished in the form of vindaye (or vindaloo). The vindaye marinade is made from aromatic spices such as turmeric, wholegrain mustard, mustard seeds, salt and pepper. Added to this are chopped onions, garlic, vinegar and olive oil along with pieces of fish. The fish varies from the island’s favourite tuna, to the prized calamari, or even the rare octopus. The vindaye is generally served with a bowl of rice or farathas (parathas). A Sino-Mauritian nuance can be found in the form of mine frites (fried noodles). The frites are like chow mein, and can be cooked with diced vegetables. Non-vegetarians can order frites cooked with meats such as chicken, beef and mutton or a selection of poissons or fish. The much-consumed rougail - a Creole contribution to the Mauritian kitchen - deserves special mention. Rougail sauce is made with pommes d’amour or tomatoes and sautéed onions in olive oil, tempered with cumin seeds, garlic, ginger, cinnamon, chilli, salt and pepper. Fish, chicken or red meat such as beef is added to this delicately-spiced gravy. Almost all the dishes pair well with fresh coconut water or a no-fuss local Phoenix beer. Teetotallers can down tropical fruit juices freshly squeezed from locally grown passion fruit, mango and litchis.

Chef Pravind Jugun is Chef de Cuisine at Constance Le Prince Maurice.

Since sugarcane fields occupy vast swathes of land in Mauritius, a meal here is incomplete without some sweetmeat. The sinful Napolitaine consists of two pieces of shortbread, joined together by a generous layer of raspberry jam. It is coated with syrupy berry icing which hardens to give the Napolitaine a pretty pink shell. Bite-sized and deceptively light, just one Napolitaine is never enough. With such a medley of cuisines on offer, you wonder what the daily diet of locals looks like. A local joke describes it best. A true Mauritian starts his day with croissants dipped in chai. Lunch consists of dholl-puri or dal and puri or seafood frites as starters, followed by spicy, meaty rougail. And finally dinner at a French restaurant!

Peas and mint soup The menu of a roadside café in Grand Baie

Sautéed prawns and palm heart salad with tangy tomato and pineapple chutney

Peas and mint soup Serves 4 n 1 hour n EASY fresh peas 450g, boiled fresh mint leaves 45g, finely chopped milk 1l REALLY salt to taste REALLY freshly ground pepper to taste EASY olive oil 10ml n Bring together the peas and mint leaves in a blender. Boil the milk and pour half of the boiling milk into the peas and mint leaves. Blend and mix well. n Add the rest of the milk slowly until you get a smooth, creamy soup. Pour the soup in a saucepan and bring to a boil. n Season with salt and pepper. Garnish with mint leaves and droplets of olive oil.

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masterclass chef skills

ALEX SANCHEZ’S

Masterclass Recipe ALEX SANCHEZ Photographs VIKAS MUNIPALLE Alex Sanchez in the Good Food kitchen

Key lime pie Makes 6-8 individual pies n 1 hour + refrigerating n MODERATELY EASY

Our local nimbus are the perfect substitute for key limes. If you find the zest of lime too bitter, substitute it with lemon zest. THE PASTRY butter 250g, chilled and cut into small cubes flour 2 1/2 cups sugar 175g egg yolks 4 key lime 1, zested THE FILLING sugar 400g cream 300g key limes 9, juiced eggs 9 egg yolks 2 demerara sugar for dusting (try Tate & Lyle available at gourmet stores)

IVE EXCLUS Y-STEP STEP-BCIPE RE JUNE 2012

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T Masterclass Learn to cook like a pro in our Masterclass section. Pick up cooking lessons directly from culinary masters in India and abroad. Make restaurant-perfect dishes and pick up fine dining finishing touches of chefs through illustrated step-by-step recipes in Chef Skills. We also feature nifty kitchen gadgets that sharpen your kitchen skills and our 10-minute wine guide is perfect for wine lovers. P 135

Alex Sanchez, executive chef at The Table in Mumbai, makes key lime pie from scratch

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WorldMags.net THE GOOD FOOD INDIA

How to get the best from Good Food India Why you can cook our recipes with confidence

What our symbols mean

All the recipes in Good Food are tested thoroughly, so they’ll work the first time for you at home. Most of our recipes are developed in the Good Food test kitchen by our cookery team or come from food writers and chefs. We aim to make our recipes as practical as possible, keeping ingredient lists to a minimum and avoiding lengthy preparations.

EASY Recipes everyone can make, even beginners. These dishes are usually quick, often on the table within 20 minutes. MODERATELY EASY These require a bit more skill – for example making and rolling out pastry. A LITTLE EFFORT Recipes aimed at experienced cooks who cook for pleasure and like a challenge. CAN BE FROZEN Unless otherwise stated, freeze for up to three months. Defrost thoroughly and heat until piping hot. VEGETARIAN Meat-free dishes. JAIN Suitable for Jain cooking.

How we triple test our recipes

1 2 3

The first time is by the recipe writer, who tests the recipe in a domestic kitchen. Next, a member of the cookery team makes the recipe in the Good Food India kitchen. The recipe is then tested at our photo shoot. Some recipes are tested a fourth time at home by individual members of the Good Food editorial team — we’re all keen cooks and often can’t resist trying out a recipe we particularly love, as soon as we’ve discovered it. Testing our recipes three times or more may seem over-cautious, but mistakes can be costly, so we think it makes sense to ensure you get the right result every time.

Over to you  Have a family recipe to share or think you could add to our recipes? Email us at bbcgoodfood@wwm. co.in and let us know. We’re always on the look out for new places and food stories and would love to hear about great places to eat in your hometown.

LOOK OUT FOR THESE HIGHLIGHTS Those recipes marked with this stamp are the simplest and require very little effort.

SATURDAY Sweet potato, feta frittata pea and

Serves 2 n 20 minutes

017-020-L2 7 Meals

for 700-STAN R1.indd

n Heat the olive oil in a non-stick frying pan, add the potatoes and season to taste. Cover and cook gently on low flame for 8-10 minutes, stirring now and again, until tender. Add the spring onions and cook for 2 minutes. Stir in the peas. n Put the flame on medium high. Pour the eggs over and shake the pan to distribute them evenly. Sprinkle over the feta. Leave it to cook for about 8 minutes, shaking the pan regularly, until the eggs are almost set. Flash the pan under the grill (optional) for a few minutes to finish cooking. Serve in wedges with chilli sauce. n PER SERVING 505 kcals, protein 23.6g, carbs 28.2g, fat 33g, sat fat 11.8g, fibre 4.6g, salt 2.3g

HARRIS

n Heat the oven to 200°C. Place the tortilla pieces on a baking tray, toss with the oil and the seasoning mix, then cook for 10-12 minutes until crisp. In a large bowl, toss the lettuce, beans and tomatoes. Toss the avocado in the lime juice and add to the bowl. n Drizzle over your chosen dressing and toss to coat all the ingredients. Top with the croutons and coriander, then serve. n PER SERVING 337 kcals, protein 11g, carbs 42g, fat 14g, sat fat 3g, fibre 9g, sugar 5g, salt 0.4g

Food styling LIZZIE

n EASY

MORAG FARQUHAR

Show-off recipes when you fancy a challenge. These recipes require a little effort.

FRIDAY Mexican salad tortilla croutonswith

Serves 2 n 25 minutes

tortillas 2, cut into crouton-sized pieces olive oil 1/2 tbsp Cajun or Mexican seasoning mix 1/2 tsp (try Keya available at gourmet stores) lettuce leaves a bunch, shredded black or kidney beans 200g, boiled cherry tomatoes 100g, halved avocado 1, sliced lime juice a few drops coriander leaves a bunch

MORGANS Styling

FOR SKILLED COOKS

n EASY

Photograph GARETH

REALLY REALLY QUICK

Recipes that can be made under 20 minutes. Perfect for hectic weekdays.

olive oil 2 tbsp sweet potatoes 250g, peeled and diced spring onions 4, shredded REALLY green peas 50g REALLY eggs 4, whisked EASY feta cheese 70g, crumbled (try Lemnos available at gourmet stores) chilli sauce to serve

Recipe LUCY NETHERTON

REALLY REALLY EASY

70

PROMISE We hope you enjoy our lively mix of recipes, restaurant reviews and travel features. We attempt to make them fun to read, but we are also serious about eating well and doing it sustainably. Here’s what you can expect from this and every issue: TRIPLE-TESTED RECIPES All our recipes are tested at least three times. For great results, we recommend you use standard level measuring spoons, and don’t mix imperial and metric measures. EASY RECIPES Most of Good Food’s recipes are quick and simple to follow and can be made using easily available ingredients. THE ODD CHALLENGE Weekends are perfect for elaborate meals and entertaining. We’ve included a smattering of show-off recipes for those who enjoy a good challenge. GOOD VALUE Look out for our recipes that aim to make the most of your budget — 7 meals for ` 700. We also use full packs, cans and jars where we can, to avoid waste, but if that’s not possible we aim to suggest ways of using up leftovers. SEASONAL EATING We love using seasonal ingredients in our recipes because they give the food a distinct flavour and add seasonal freshness. HEALTHY EATING We reckon the 80% sensible, 20% indulgent way of eating is best which is why we support our recipes with nutritional info. We’ll also tell you how to give popular recipes a healthy makeover. PROVENANCE MATTERS Where possible, we use humanely reared meats, free-range chickens and eggs, sustainably sourced fish and unrefined sugar. INTERNATIONAL SAVVY Sometimes, recipes call for ingredients that aren’t available locally and can’t be brought to India without notching up air / sea miles. It’s your choice whether or not you use them. CHEAP EATS AND SMART TREATS Hole-in-the-wall eateries and fine dining restaurants — there’s room for both in Good Food’s Eat Out pages. LOCAL KNOWLEDGE The Eat Away section arms you with insider info and recipes from the world’s most exciting food destinations written by on-the-ground food journalists. BIG ISSUES Preaching doesn’t come naturally, so we won’t tell you what, or what not to eat. Instead, we keep you up-to-date with issues and debates in the food world in our Good Food Investigates feature. Read about the issues regarding dietary fats on p 58.

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For a list of stores that stock gourmet ingredients, turn to p 151

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Privilege Programme goodfoodprivileges.in

HOME

RESTAURANT OFFERS

PARTNER UPDATES

SHOP ONLINE

GASTRONOMIC ADVENTURES

CALIFORNIA DREAMING California Pizza Kitchen is known worldwide for its innovative recipes and Californian twist on global flavours. The restaurant first began in California in 1985. In India, it made its way to Mumbai and Bengaluru, ensuring its diners an unforgettable culinary experience. After all, with its emphasis on fresh ingredients and innovative recipes, California Pizza Kitchen has always had more than enough to satisfy even the most discerning diner, with its array of appetisers, salads, sandwiches, pizzas, pastas and range of hearth-baked dishes. Now, there’s even more to choose from, with the introduction of a new menu, which includes the Italian Deli Sandwich, Aglio E Olio Scampi Spaghetti and California Puttanesca Penne. Also worth trying are their 14-inch pizzas, available in exotic combinations such as Chicken Fajita and Seekh Kabab. There’s always something on offer for everyone here. Browse through the ‘Happy Hours’ menu if you want to unwind after a hectic day at work. Are your children fussy about what they eat? Let them choose from the extensive kid-friendly menu. There’s even the convenience of home delivery for that last-minute party. With its delicious food, chic interiors and stylish cocktails, California Pizza Kitchen is an experience in itself. So why would you go anywhere else?

All about BBC Good Food India’s Privilege Programme At BBC Good Food India, we believe no reader of ours should ever have to sit down to anything less than a king’s feast. Which is why when you subscribe to our magazine, you receive an exclusive Privilege Card that allows you to live out all your food fantasies through a host of special offers. You can swing by over 150 hand-picked fine dining restaurants and enjoy special prices, welcome drinks and complimentary desserts. Or head out on fabulous culinary tours and gastronomic adventures around the globe. You can also stock your larder with exotic ingredients and fine wines or pick up fancy chef’s paraphernalia for the kitchen and bar. To savour this lavish offer, visit goodfoodprivileges.in.

To subscribe, SMS GFPC to 58888 or log on to mags.timesgroup.com/good-food.html 24 BBC GoodFood

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DECEMBER 2012

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Storm in the

kitchen

Brimming with bubbly, laughter and brilliant food, the launch of the Good Food test kitchen was an evening to remember

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Photographs FAROKH JASSAWALA, AKSHAY KULKARNI and ABHISHEK KHARKAR

I

n October we inaugurated our kitchen-studio, the very first of its kind in the country. Setting up the kitchen fulfills Good Food’s promise of triple-testing every recipe that is carried in the magazine each month. This ensures that our readers get every dish from the magazine right the very first time they try it. We know you got a glimpse of the launch party in our anniversary issue last month, but we had so many fun moments to share, we just had to do a follow up act of the Champagne high tea held to inaugurate the kitchen. The event was the toast of the food world. Good Food editor Sona Bahadur and Worldwide Media CEO Tarun Rai, kicked off the celebration by popping open a bottle of Champagne. Present at the occasion were food critic Rashmi Uday Singh, TV personality Maria Goretti, restaurateur Camellia Panjabi and blogger Rushina Munshaw Ghildiyal, among others. There were plenty of chefs present as well — corporate chef Irfan Pabaney, Chef Paul Kinny of the Intercontinental; Mayank Tiwari of Olive and Chef Nachiket Shetye of 36 Oak & Barley, among others. Mangal Dalal, co-founder of India Restaurant Week; Farhat Jamal, General Manager of the upcoming Shangri-la Hotel in Mumbai and Diageo Reserve’s brand ambassador, Tim Etherington Judge were also present. Among the high flyers of the business world were Avni Biyani of Future Group; Mudra’s Group CEO and MD, Madhukar Kamath; Mitrajit Bhattacharya, President and Publisher of Chitralekha.

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FROM FACING PAGE: 1 Sona Bahadur, editor, BBC Good Food with Tarun Rai, CEO, Worldwide Media 2 Vikas Seth of Dish Hospitality 3 Gauri Devidayal of The Table 4 Pooja Dhingra of Le 15 Patisserie 5 Tarun Rai, television anchor Maria Goretti and Sona Bahadur with Chef Alex Sanchez of The Table 6 Tarun Rai in the kitchen 7 Tim Etherington Judge (left) of Diageo Reserve 8 Ceylan Ozen, Consul General of Turkey with restaurant critic Rashmi Uday Singh 9 Zeba Kohli of Fantasie Fine Chocolates 10 Chef Surjit Singh Jolly of Renaissance Hotels with Maria Goretti 11 Nikhil Agarwal of All Things Nice in conversation with Sona Bahadur 12 Farhat Jamal, Area Manager and General Manager of Shangri-la Hotels and Resorts with Tarun Rai 13 Chef Alex Sanchez making key lime pie 14 Restaurateur, cookbook writer and Good Food’s Consulting Editor Camellia Panjabi with Mudra’s Madhukar Kamath 15 The Israeli Consul General Orna Sagiv with Tarun Rai 16 Tarun Rai with Chitralekha’s Mitrajit Bhattacharya and exchange4media’s Nawal Ahuja 17 The Good Food team shares a fun moment 18 The Good Food brand team with WWM CEO Tarun Rai

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first look test kitchen

first look test kitchen

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The brand new Good Food test kitchen

Good Food’s Amit Pamnani and Kainaz Contractor flank Chef Jolly of Renaissance, Powai, in the kitchen

KitchenCONFIDENTIAL What simmers in the Good Food kitchen each day? Here’s a behind-the-burners look

So what’s the deal about the Good Food kitchen? At the core of the brand, the Good Food kitchen was created to ensure that all the recipes in the magazine are tested and thus absolutely foolproof. The kitchen also helps in the development of new recipes by the Good Food kitchen team. Five days a week, our kitchen staff triple tests every recipe in the magazine to ensure that each dish comes out perfectly, every time. This is where we have our tasting sessions as well.

What is the set-up like? Located in Prabhadevi in the heart of Mumbai, the Good Food kitchen is spacious and airy, with plenty of natural light. Quirky illustrations of ingredients and cooking processes

IN A WEEK

✴ Recipes tested ✴ Eggs used up ✴ Doggy bags packed ✴ Packs of butter ✴ Oven burns ✴ Boo boos

40+ 20 5 24 2 3

(Even experts make mistakes!)

adorn the kitchen walls that have been tastefully done up in black granite and wood with metallic highlights by well-known architect Urvaksh Aga. The kitchen has four workstations so different cooks can work independently and not collide with one another. The kitchen is stocked with two ovens, one refrigerator, one cooler, two stove tops, one grill, one high-pressure wok burner for cooking South East Asian food and a host of utensils one would normally use at home. None of our appliances are terribly fancy — most of these are items that you would use at home. That’s precisely the point. We don’t want to use chef-style appliances because we know that you won’t have them at home.

Who does the shopping? We have a daily supermarket delivery. But we also scour the local markets for ingredients. Organising the food shopping is a full-time job for our intern, who creates long shopping lists about what will be needed every day. Our fridges and store cupboards are always fully stocked — we don’t like wasting food but we certainly don’t like to run out of ingredients in the middle of a hectic day of cooking.

Turn the page for more on our Test Kitchen

A DAY IN THE LIFE OF THE GOOD FOOD INDIA KITCHEN 10 am Recipes to be tested are finalised and the ingredient shopping for the day done. l 11 am The mise-en-place for the recipes is completed and cuts of the vegetables and meats to be used in each recipe noted. l 1 pm Break for lunch. l 1:30 pm Recipes are cooked, with each detail noted down, including time taken, temperatures of cooking and type of cooking vessel best suited to the dish. l 5 pm Time to taste the day’s dishes. The GF editorial team arrives in the kitchen to try the tested recipes and discuss comments with the cookery staff. l 6 pm Kitchen is cleaned up. l 6:30 pm The day’s expenditure is tallied. l 7 pm It’s a wrap! l

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One-Touch Premium charcoal grill

barbecue recipes.

booklet with Indian

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first look test kitchen

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How does the triple-testing process work?

The editorial team sends across the recipes to be tested for the week. The cookery team led by our kitchen in charge Chef Amit Pamnani and our interns, draw up a schedule so everybody in the team knows exactly when each dish is being tested. Based on the schedule, team members go to taste each dish, discuss whether it needs any changes (perhaps a tad less salt? A bit hit of chilli?) and then it gets tested again and again, until we are absolutely satisfied with the results.

Quote Unquote On why the test kitchen counts

“The Good Food Kitchen is where our cookery team engages in recipe forensics of their own, every day of the week. After three stages of testing in which all adjustments have been made to a recipe, it goes from good to excellent. Thanks to all our cool kitchen tips and tricks, our readers can become better cooks and up their culinary game without ever going to catering school.”

— Sona Bahadur, editor Good Food India

Where do the recipes come from? Our recipes come from three main sources. Some of them are developed in the Good Food kitchen by our cookery team, while the remaining come from chefs, food bloggers and home cooks. But no matter who writes the recipe, every one is tested rigorously. We know your time and money are precious — so we want to guarantee a perfect dish every time.

Who designed our masterpiece? Urvaksh Aga, the architect of the kitchen, has an interesting story behind the creation of the edgy yet tasteful kitchen interiors. “Our inspiration (or actually lack of) resulted in a halfday-long brainstorming session with only a pile of discarded sketches, crumpled and heaped on the conference table. Someone from the team suggested we just use the pile of crumpled paper itself as a starting point, and we did. We modelled the kitchen to look like it had jumped out of the dog-eared pages of the Good Food magazine. Having designed many commercial and residential kitchens before, this was quite easy, just the time and cost constraints were tough, but we pulled it off.”

From the mother brand

“The Good Food Test Kitchen is at the heart of the magazine. It’s where our cookery team creates and tests recipes to make sure they work for readers at home. Even recipes from other sources – whether it’s a new contributor or a celebrity chef – are tested to our exacting Good Food standards. We want to encourage people to cook at home, so we make sure an ingredients list is only as long as it needs to be, that the method is clear, and timings and quantities absolutely accurate. I’m thrilled to hear that Good Food India now has its own test kitchen.”

— Gillian Carter, editor Good Food UK

Praise from a critic

“You can trust the ultimate and complete food magazine (BBC Good Food) to go that extra mile and not just print great recipes but also triple-test each one internally and share their bounty with us. An amazing brainchild of its driving forces, Tarun Rai and Sona Bahadur, the Good Food test kitchen is all set to power us with useful and usable foodie sessions.”

— Rashmi Uday Singh, restaurant critic and author

On cooking in the GF Kitchen

“The Good Food team did an excellent job creating a space that is at once functional, versatile, and stylish. The test kitchen is outfitted in a way that facilitates effetive recipe testing while also taking into consideration the limitations of the average home kitchen. The room, flooded with natural light, is certainly the ideal setting for cooking and food photography. It was a blast breaking in the kitchen with everyone over at the launch. I can only hope they invite me back after the terrible mess I made!”

— Alex Sanchez, Executive Chef of The Table in Mumbai

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Celebrating Good Food Day As part of Good Food Day celebrations, Good Food, in association with ITC Grand Central, Mumbai offered food lovers a stunning 8-course line up of global classics cooked by nine leading chefs. That too for a steal!

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hy not have a day that’s devoted to great food and trying out something new? With this simple philosophy guiding us, we celebrated the first Good Food Day on 21st October 2012. The event was a huge success and created a culinary history of sorts. VENUE PARTNER

EVENT CONSULTANT

PARTICIPATING RESTAURANTS

32 BBC GoodFood

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Inspired by the idea of sampling of global classics (the theme of our anniversary edition) on home turf, Good Food Day was held at the ITC Grand Central, Mumbai. Nine celebrated chefs rustled up a storm of fabulous dishes. An eight-course lunch spread across three restaurants and cuisines – Indian, Pan Asian and European These cuisines were enjoyed by over 400 people at Kebabs & Kurries, Shanghai Club and Hornby’s Pavilion respectively. The formidable line-up of ITC chefs included Kulsum Begum, Salar Jung food consultant to the ITC Hotels group, Master Chef Haji Mohammad Farooqui and expat Chinese Chef Yang Jiayu. The other celebrity chefs who participated included Chef Gresham Fernandes of Smoke House Room, Chef Viraf Patel of Cafe Zoe, Chef Jaydeep Mukherjee of Indigo Deli and Café, Le 15 Patisserie’s Pooja Dhingra, Lemongrass chef Nitin Tandon and Busaba’s Nikhil Chib. The day ended with happy foodies who left with memories of scrumptious food and a goodie bag by Olive Tree Trading Company which contained Olitalia olive oil, Familia Berry Crunch muesli, Sacla olive tapenade and the magazine’s October issue. DECEMBER 2012

Photographs AVADOOT SARKAR, FAROKH JASSAWALA, JAYESH, RAJU DANI

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FACING PAGE: Chefs Yang Jiayu, Viraf Patel, Gresham Fernandes, Jaydeep Mukherjee, Nitin Tandon and Nikhil Chib. THIS PAGE: 1 Kuldeep Bhartee, General Manager, ITC Grand Central and Tarun Rai, CEO Worldwide Media 2 Restaurateurs Namita Panjabi, Camellia Panjabi and Good Food editor Sona Bahadur 3 Writerdirector Gauri Shinde and Sona Bahadur 4 Restaurant critic Rashmi Uday Singh 5 Shatbhi and Trisha Basu 6 Jurgen Wolf, MD, Hafele (right) 7 Tarun Rai 8 Aslam Gafoor, GM-Marketing, Weber 9 The Good Food Brand team 10 Chef Gresham Fernandes (Contd.)

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T HORNBY’S PAVILION What do you get when four top chefs in Mumbai get together to cook up an eight-course tasting menu of their signature spins on global classics? A full-blown gastronomic feast showcasing the best in European food.

Diners at Hornby’s Pavilion

THE MENU

The European menu was a scrumptious lineup of global classics with the chef’s signature spin on each dish. The classic French chevre salad was given a sweet and tart surprise with roasted beets and raspberry by Fernandes while the traditional jerk chicken with herbed couscous was given a Middle-Eastern spin by Patel. The crowd pleasers were Mukherjee’s Lasagna of Wild Mushroom and Artichokes as well as Dhingra’s assortments of tarts and cakes.

Left to right: Heena Jain of missmailini.com, Blogger Nikhil Merchant, Four Season’s Chef Clinton Cooper and Andrea Brown of missmalini.com

ABOUT HORNBY’S PAVILION

Named after the erstwhile Governor of Mumbai, William Hornby, Hornby’s Pavilion is an exclusive all day dining restaurant overlooking the PAVIatLIO BY’SSquare ITCN Grand Central. HORNMill NU ME L GOODFOOD DAY SPECIA

PARTICIPATING CHEFS

HAM FERN AND ES COU RSE 1: CHEF GRES

(V) CHO WITH PETIT VEGETABLES BLOODY MARY MEETS GAZPA

Chef Pooja Dhingra A Le Cordon Bleu graduate, Dhingra started Mumbai’s Le15 Patisserie which has recieved much acclaim for its stellar macarons and more.

HAM FERN AND ES COU RSE 2: CHEF GRES ROAS TED BEETS, CHEVR

E AND RASPBERRY SALAD

(V)

EEP MUK HERJ EE COU RSE 3: CHEF JAYD

TO & SHERRY SHALLOTS TART OF ROAS TED TOMA

(V)

EEP MUK HERJ EE COU RSE 4: CHEF JAYD

LASAGNA OF WILD MUSH

ROOMS & GRILLED ARTIC

HOKE (V)

F PATE L COU RSE 5: CHEF VIRA

OUILLE VEGETABLES (V) COUSCOUS WITH RATAT OR EN WITH COUSCOUS (NV)

JERK SPICED ROAS T CHICK

F PATE L COU RSE 6: CHEF VIRA VEGETABLES (V) RISOTTO MILANESE WITH OR MILANESE (NV) TO RISOT WITH FILLET SALMON

JA DHIN GRA COU RSE 7: CHEF POO BANANAS LLA GENOISE, CARAMELIZED ADDICTION CAKE (VANI CHE) (V) MILK CHOCOLATE GANA OR PISTACHIO OPERA (NV)

AND

JA DHIN GRA COU RSE 8: CHEF POO MINI TARTS , COFFEE & CARAMEL (V) GE, FRESH STRAWBERRY OR N FRUIT (NV) PASSIO N, LEMO , OLATE CARAMEL & CHOC

DARK CHOCOLATE & ORAN

Chef Viraf Patel Viraf Patel is a chef, restaurateur and the MD of a hospitality company. He is currently the co-founder and owner of Cafe Zoe in Mumbai. Chef Jaydeep Mukherjee Jaydeep or JD as he’s popularly known in his kitchen is an Executive Chef with deGustibus, the company that gave shape to the iconic Indigo brand.

Chef Gresham Fernandes Fernandes heads the kitchens of Smoke House Room in Delhi and is best known for pushing the boundaries of conventional European fine dining with cutting edge techniques, including elements of molecular gastronomy.

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34 BBC GoodFood * The above dishes are

Pooja Dhingra’s assorted tarts and Pistachio Opera

availability. subject to change as per

DECEMBER 2012

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T KEBABS & KURRIES

Kebabs & Kurries

The ITC group’s Indian offerings need no introduction. With undisputedly the best Indian speciality restaurants (Kebabs & Kurries, Dum Pukht, Bukhara) in the country, ITC has been a culinary custodian of sorts, preserving the great legacy of Indian food. At this grand event, ITC pulled all the stops and invited two master chefs to create a menu par excellence.

ABOUT THE MENU

Kulsum Begum and Chef Farooqui’s reputation for classic regional cooking was evident in the diner’s eager anticipation for their menus. The menu showcased the best of Salar Jung and Awadhi cooking by both the chefs respectively while keeping in mind that each dish is a global classic in its own right. Kulsum Begum’s Kundan Kareli and Chef Farooqui’s Gosht Dum Biryani were undisputed stars of the entire meal.

Centre: Chef Vicky Ratnani, Aurus

ABOUT KEBABS & KURRIES

Kebabs & Kurries is an exclusive Indian restaurant showcasing scrumptious heritage cuisine fine-tuned through years of research by the chefs of ITC Hotels. Kebabs & Kurries captures the originality and evolution of multiple cooking styles in a comfortable and earthy ambience. Cuisines of royalty and nawabs, rich in folklore as also in taste, are served at the restaurant. As served in the noble courts and on the battlefield in yesteryears, the fare at Kebabs & Kurries is the coming together of ancient culinary secrets, long forgotten herbs and exotic flavours.

KEBABS & KURRIES

PARTICIPATING CHEFS

L MENU

GOODFOOD DAY SPECIA

OQU I COU RSE 1: CHEF FARO GUCC HI KI KURK URI D AND FRIED, ED IN PHYLLO SHEET S ROLLE (V) KASHMIRI MORELS STUFF OF MINT CHUTNEY SERVED WITH A DRIZZLE JHING E KI KURK URI D AND FRIED, IN PHYLLO SHEET S ROLLE SPICED PRAWNS STUFFED OF MINT CHUTNEY (NV) SERVED WITH A DRIZZLE

UM BEGU M COU RSE 2: CHEF KULS

SUBZ I KI SHIKA MPUR EN FRESH VEGETABLES (V) PREPARATION WITH GARD MAHI ANGB IN TO PERFECTION (NV) ED COOK E, MINC ED FISH WITH SPICES AND

TRADITIONAL SALARJUNG STUFF

OQU I COU RSE 3: CHEF FARO

FARM AISHI KEBAB GRIDDLE (V) TO PERFECTION OVER A DOUBLE BEAN COOKED B GOSH T KE GALO UTI KABA GRIDDLE (NV) ON ED COOK S KEBAB E FLAVOURFUL LAMB MINC

UM BEGU M COU RSE 4: CHEF KULS

ZAFRA NI PANE ER SAFFRON AND I PANEER, FLAVOURED WITH HOUSE MADE SOFT MALA TANDOOR (V) COOKED IN CHARCOAL RA ANGA H MURG WITH CHICKEN MINCE AND SALAN CHILLIES STUFFED (NV) SERVED WITH PARATHA FLAVOURED WITH SPICES

OQU I COU RSE 5: CHEF FARO

DAL CHUL AO WITH SULTA NI W DAL (V) OUR INNOVATIVE YELLO BASMATI RICE SERVED WITH TRADITIONALLY COOKED KUND AN KAREL I SPICES, OVER NIGHT IN DELIC ATE D STEWE KS SHAN LAMB WARQI PARATHA (NV) SERVED WITH MINIATURE

UM BEGU M COU RSE 6: CHEF KULS

ARVI KA SALAN (V) NUTS AND SESAME SEEDS TANGY SALAN GRAVY WITH GOSH T DUM BIRYA NI JUNG WAY (NV) SALAR THE I, BIRYAN OUR MOST FAMOUS LAMB

COLOCASIA COOKED IN

OQU I COU RSE 7: CHEF FARO

ED WHEAT VERMICELLI COOK

SEVIY ON KA MUZZ AFFER AND NUTS (V) OUS AMOUNT OF GHEE TO PERFECTION WITH GENER

UM BEGU M COU RSE 8 : CHEF KULS PAHE LI KE ANDE MILK AND KHOA (NV)

MOCK EGGS MADE WITH

* The above dishes are subject

ity.

to change as per availabil

Chef Haji Mohammad Farooqui ITC Grand Central’s Master Chef Haji Mohammad Farooqui‘s lineage is impeccable. His ancestors were cooks in the royal court of Awadh where Dum Pukht originated 200 years ago. Chef Farooqui has been associated with the Dum Pukht and Kebabs & Kurries restaurants since their launch.

Card.indd 5

Chef Haji Mohammad Farooqui

Chef Kulsum Begum Chef Kulsum Begum, niece of Salar Jung III, Nawab Yusuf Ali and wife of Kunwar Amir Naqui Khan of Memoodabad, became the first daughter of the family to unravel the secrets of the Salar Jung kitchen. Kulsum Begum has showcased these exclusive recipes for the first time. 19/10/12 7:35 PM

L1 ITC Good Food Menu

Sona Bahadur with Chef Kulsum Begum

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T SHANGHAI CLUB Asian cooking has always found favour amongst diners, be it the subtle flavours of Vietnamese food or the bold and robust ones of Thai cooking. So when chefs Yang Jiayu, Nikhil Chib and Nitin Tandon got together to create a menu with Asian favourites, it was a riot of textures, colours and flavours.

ABOUT THE MENU

Flaunting the widest range of cuisines on one menu, the Asian menu at Good Food Day was a flavour-packed one with all our favorite south east Asian dishes. The Khao Suey and Bulgogi by Chef Chib were a hit with most of the diners as was Chef Tandon’s Massaman Curry. Chef Jiayu’s expertise was ably demonstrated with his crisp Spicy Prawns with Wasabi.

ABOUT SHANGHAI CLUB

Monica Lakhmana, Director for Operations at Taj Gateway with other guests Left to right: Namita Panjabi, Camellia Panjabi, Rashmi Uday Singh, Sona Bahadur and Tarun Rai

Fine dining Chinese restaurant, the Shanghai Club at ITC Grand Central, Mumbai presents a selection of authentic Chinese regional cuisines in a contemporary ambience.

SHANGHAI CLUB

NU

L ME GOODFOOD DAY SPECIA

IL CHIB COU RSE 1 : CHE F NIKH NGRASS (V) G ROLL S WITH TOFU & LEMO FRESH VIETNAMESE SPRIN OR BBQ SAUCE (NV) SE HOU IN N, STAR ANISE, CINNAMO BARBECUE SPARE RIBS,

IL CHIB COU RSE 2 : CHE F NIKH VEGETABLE TEMPURA (V) OR KOREAN CHILLI PASTE, KOREAN BEEF BULGOGI, O (NV) ROSS LOLLO

G JIAY U COU RSE 3 : CHE F YAN WASABI (V) SPRING VEGETABLES WITH OR BI (NV) WASA SPICY PRAWNS WITH

Spicy Prawns with Wasabi

N TAN DON COU RSE 4 : CHE F NITI WITH RICE (V) VEGETABLE RED CURRY OR Y WITH RICE (NV)

LAMB MASSAMAN CURR

DON COU RSE 5 : NITI N TAN GRILLED TOFU (V) VEGETABLE PAD THAI WITH OR ED BASA (NV) GRILL WITH THAI PAD VEGETABLE

IL CHIB COU RSE 6 : CHE F NIKH SUEY (V) VEGETABLE BURMESE KHAO OR SUEY (NV) KHAO ESE BURM EN CHICK

G JIAY U COU RSE 7 : CHE F YAN DATE PANC AKE WITH HOM

E MADE ICE CREAM (V)

N TAN DON COU RSE 8 : CHE F NITI STICKY RICE, COCONUT

CRISP & MANGO SAUCE

to change * The above dishes are subject 36 BBC GoodFood

as per availability.

(V)

Chef Jiayu’s Spicy Spring vegetables with Wasabi

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(Contd.) DECEMBER 2012

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Camellia Panjabi and Chef Nitin Tandon

“The endeavour by Good Food was brave and unique. A seamless exchange of experiences, ideas, camaraderie and cigarettes between chefs.” - Jaydeep Mukherjee

PARTICIPATING CHEFS

Chef Nikhil Chib Nikhil Chib is the Managing Director and Executive Chef of Busaba.

Chef Nitin Tandon Chef, food stylist and restaurateur, Tandon has been at the helm of several successful restaurants serving a variety of cuisines, including Lemongrass Café, Potpourri and Seijo and the Soul Dish. Chef Yang Jiayu Chef Jiayu has been with the ITC Hotels since February 1999 and specialises in the Cantonese, Hunan, Sichuan and Beijing styles of cooking. His knowledge and expertise in Chinese cuisine, whether it is Sichuan, Cantonese or Beijing, is highly sought after and has won him many accolades.

“In just one year since its launch, BBC Good Food has become the favorite magazine of food lovers. To celebrate Good Food Day we have got together some of India’s most talented chefs to prepare an exquisite menu at an incredible price. ” – Tarun Rai, CEO, Worldwide Media Pvt. Ltd. “ITC Hotels has always been in the forefront of serving world class cuisine on the global high table. Our Master Chefs constantly delve into the world of ingredients, recipes, flavours, aromas and tastes to create that ‘perfect gourmet experience’ for our esteemed guests. The celebrations of Good Food Day at ITC Grand Central, Mumbai is taking this tradition of culinary excellence further by having some of India’s most talented chefs coming together and creating delectable menus at our signature restaurants Kebabs & Kurries, Shanghai Club and Hornby’s Pavilion.” - Kuldeep Bhartee, General Manager, ITC Grand Central, Mumbai.

38 BBC GoodFood

BLOG R OLL

CHEFS SPEAK

“A brilliant idea that brought together an exciting array of food and flavours onto one wellcrafted menu. Kudos for putting up a wonderful show.” - Nikhil Chib “It was great fun working with the chefs. We need more gigs like this, where chefs can collaborate. I learnt a lot, and it’s always great cooking for a different audience. Hope to do more things like this.” - Gresham Fernandes, “It’s very rare that one gets an opportunity to work with a team of some of the best chefs in the country! Thank you for making this possible.” - Pooja Dhingra, “It was great being part of the event. Having worked with JD and Gresham in the past, it was easy to work on a menu together and in our own styles to create a balanced menu. “ - Viraf Patel “Good Food made a brave attempt to offer a scrumptious eight-course tasting menu where each chef brought his best and created magic on the table! - Nitin Tandon “Good Food Day has brought greater awareness and understanding of Mumbai’s culinary and dining opportunities. - Kulsum Begum “Good Food Day allows chefs to come together as part of a thriving culinary community.” - Chef Yang Jiayu “By providing global menus at a fixed price, Good Food Day offered guests an opportunity to experience an eclectic mix of flavours.” - Chef Mohammad Farooqui

“The whole experience in itself was quite refreshing. What I ate was a sampling of some really clever and elegant cooking. Gresham Fernandes’ beet and duck salad was beautiful with the creaminess of the chevre, the sweetness of the raspberries and beets and the salty, delicate duck coming together quite well. I kept thinking about this dish all day. Chef Jaideep Mukherjee’s was probably the most beautiful lasagne I have ever tasted or seen. Shaped like a roulade and filled liberally with mushrooms (and not overwhelmingly cheesy). It was a huge portion but I got greedy and finished every last bit of it.” Saee Koranne-Khandekar, myjhola.in. “Good Food Day is today and BBC Good Food India knows how to celebrate Good Food Day just right! Eight chefs, eight courses, this was the perfect start to a special day. Served up at ITC Grand Central’s restaurant Hornby’s Pavilion, we selected the Modern European Cuisine. A fun day with friends, well spent!” Nikhil Merchant, nonchalantgourmand.com Happy 1-Year Anniversary Good Food! Maybe next year you can celebrate Good Food Week and we can sample all three tastings! The dessert course was by far our favourite. The cake including layers of vanilla genoise, caramelised bananas and chocolate ganache can only be described as heaven. All the tarts were delicious. - Malini Agarwal, missmalini.com

TWITTER FEEDS

Amazing Khow Suey and Crispy Wasabi Prawns at The Shanghai Club! — Papple, @caramelwings

Enjoying Good Food Day at Hornby’s Pavilion with the best Lasagne. It’s cheesy and yummy. — Rekha Shetty, @trippinoverlife

Celebrating Good Food Day. Grand event, grand day. Happy Birthday Good Food! — Karan Jotwani, @BabaJotwani

Every day should be Good Food Day.

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— Malini Agarwal, @MissMalini

DECEMBER 2012

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first bite

Let it snow Words SARAH COOK Photographs STUART OVENDEN Styling TONY HUTCHINSON Food styling SARAH COOK

Spend a few fun hours baking a traditional Christmas cake, then have fun decorating it

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Have your cake... and decorate it too! These cute little snowmen are a real delight Snowman Xmas cake Serves 8 ■ 2 hours + 40 minutes ■ A LITTLE EFFORT basic Christmas cake 1 ( find recipe on p 98)

FOR SKILLED COOKS

Instead of using the traditional pudding basin (as seen on p 98) use a deep, 23cm loose-bottomed greased cake tin. For the decoration, you can buy Wilton products such as fondant icing and food colouring on gourmet.co.in. Buy Strawberry Laces at gourmet stores such as Foodhall, Hypercity or Godrej Nature’s Basket. ■ ICE THE CAKE Take 85g spiced berry syrup (recipe on p 98) and brush a little all over the Xmas cake (or any 23cm cake). On a clean surface lightly dusted with a little sifted icing sugar, roll out 750g marzipan to a circle large enough to cover the cake – use a piece of kitchen string to help you check. Lift up the marzipan by hanging it over your rolling pin, then drape over the cake. Gently pat and smooth the marzipan down the sides of the cake, then trim any excess from the bottom. Colour 1kg ready-to-roll icing from 2 x 1kg packs with a little blue food colouring, then cover the marzipan using the same method as you covered the cake, firstly brushing the marzipan with more berry syrup. Trim the base. ■ ADD SOME SNOW Use your hands to roll 2/3 of the remaining fondant icing into a long, thin sausage on an icing sugar-dusted surface. It should be long enough to go round the cake – use a piece of kitchen string to help you measure it. Use a rolling pin to roll the sausage into a strip about 5cm wide. Use a sharp knife to straighten one edge, trim the other into a wiggly edge.

Keep all the trimmings, and squash half into 2 wobbly circles for the snowmen to sit on. Brush the strip, circles and the very bottom edge of the cake with a little runny icing made with 100g sifted icing sugar and a splash of water. Scatter 85g desiccated coconut over the strip and circles, gently pressing to stick and cover. Starting with one end of the strip, stick it round the base of the cake. Simply halve the icing from the start and do in 2 half-length strips, using a little more coconut to hide the joins on the cake.

DON’T FORGET! It’s a good idea to remove the cocktail stick ‘arms’ before cutting and serving your cake – just to be on the safe side.

■ SHAPE THE SNOWMEN Roll the remaining third of icing into 2 large balls, 2 medium balls and 2 small balls. Stick together, squashing slightly, into 2 snowmen. Brush 4 cocktail sticks with a little brown food colouring and stick into the snowmen for arms. Remove before cutting the cake. ■ ADD BUTTONS AND NOSES Push a few whole cloves into one snowman as buttons. Use a little orange food colouring to dye a little of the strip trimmings, and shape a little around the pointy end of 2 cloves to look like carrot noses. Use another clove to make little holes where the noses will go, dab a bit of runny icing into the holes and stick on the noses, pushing them into the holes to help hold them. ■ SMILEY FACES Use the round end of a toothpick and melted chocolate to make the smiley mouths and eyes. ■ MAKE THE HAT Dye another lump of icing trimmings with food colouring (we used green). Shape most into a woolly hat shape, pressing a slight dip into the bottom

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with your thumb where it will sit on the snowman’s head. Roll a little ball to stick on top of the hat; attach it with more runny icing. Then roll and cut a thin strip to stick round the base of the hat. Use a cocktail stick to make markings like a woolly hat and rough up the ball on top. A little more runny icing will help it stick onto the snowman’s head. ■ AND LASTLY, THE SCARF Knot 3 strawberry laces together at one end. Tightly plait a 10cm length and knot at the end again. Using scissors, snip the ends, leaving about 1cm for tassels after the knot, then wrap around the neck of the other snowman. Sit the wobbly snowy islands and snowmen on top of the cake. ■ PER SERVING 1,371 kcals, protein 11g, carbs 247g, fat 44g, sat fat 19g, fibre 7g, sugar 232g, salt 0.96g

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WorldMags.net CUPBOARD LOVE OYSTER SAUCE

THE JURY’S OUT

Ingredients courtesy FOODHALL

How to use up… T Beef stir fry with broccoli and oyster sauce Heat 2 tbsp oil in a wok, and add 200g sliced beef. Stir fry for 10 minutes, then tip onto a plate. Stir fry 200g broccoli. Add 1 sliced onion, 2 garlic cloves and cook for 1 minute more. Pour in 2 tbsp oyster sauce and 125ml water. Bring to the boil and cook until reduced to a sticky sauce. Stir in the beef and serve hot. T Stir fried greens in oyster sauce Steam about 600g assorted greens such as pok choy, asparagus and broccoli, for 3-4 minutes until tender. Remove and while hot, toss with 4 tbsp oyster sauce and 1 finely chopped red chilli. T Prawn chow mein Cook egg noodles, broccoli florets and 140g baby corn in boiling water until tender. Drain and set aside. Heat oil in a wok and fry 1 red pepper until soft. Tip in the noodles and vegetables along with 300g prawns and toss. Add 3 tbsp tomato ketchup and 2 tbsp oyster sauce and heat until piping hot. T Spicy chicken and veg stir fry Boil a pan of salted water, add 400g green vegetables, cook, then drain. Heat 1 tbsp oil in a wok and fry 2 chicken breasts cut into slices until cooked. Add the vegetables, 1 red chilli, 120g oyster sauce and 1 tbsp soy sauce. Stir fry briefly to heat everything and to finish cooking the chicken. Garnish with toasted cashews and spring onions. Try Lee Kum Kee’s premium oyster sauce for ` 165.

SUPERMARKET SWEEP Pop into a Food store for a speedy Mediterranean meal

+ +

+

TOTAL CO ST

` 387

+

=

Warm quinoa and feta salad Serves 2 n 30 minutes + marinating n EASY Dice some mixed vegetables like onion, bell peppers and zucchini (` 47/400g) into cubes. Tip them into a roasting tray, drizzle with a little olive oil, season with salt, pepper and some dried herbs (` 10/30g). Roast at 180°C for 20 minutes and leave aside to cool. Prepare a pack of Roland’s Garden Vegetable Quinoa (` 230/155g) as per packet instructions with chicken stock instead of boiled water. Toss the quinoa with the roasted vegetables, some olive oil, salt and pepper and crumble some Apetina Feta cheese (` 100/100g) over the top to serve. (Imported ingredients such as quinoa and feta are avalible at gourmet stores like Foodhall) 44 BBC GoodFood

Photograph MYLES NEW

THE CASE FOR THE CASE AGAINST Bonding over food is innate to For me, eating out is as much several cultures, and what better about the company as about the way to do this than by breaking food. What’s fun about sitting bread with strangers? Communal awkwardly in a large group of tables at people you don’t restaurants allow know, nervously you to engage in knocking elbows friendly banter together and with unfamiliar making polite yet patrons. It is the desultory chit sort of place where chat? Nobody ever you do not have shares any food to bother about with anyone else being prim and and table sharing proper. Moreover, at restaurants is because it can a nightmare for accommodate antisocial types. Communal dining at more people, Plus, whoever Le Pain Quotidien, Mumbai it significantly thought up cuts down on wait time. So single communal dining has obviously diners, the next time you ask for never lived in a hostel where all a table for one, you may want to dining experiences consist of quick, exchange pleasantries (and food) silent meal times spent with a with that endearing person sitting group of strangers sitting round a right across from you. large table. Where’s the joy in that? - KHORSHED DEBOO - MEHER MIRZA

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DECEMBER 2012

Photograph GARETH MORGANS

Photograph courtesy LE PAIN QUOTIDIEN, MUMBAI

Communal dining

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COOL FINDS

PLOT TO PLATE

What’s new in supermarkets this month?

There’s no better way to stock up on fresh fruits, vegetables and grains than to visit a farmers market, where the produce comes straight from the growers. Soon, Pune residents will have a chance to do just that, thanks to a Farmers Market initiative started by gourmand, entrepreneur and BBC Good Food columnist, Karen Anand and her team. The Pune Farmers’ Market, which will kick off on December 9, will be a monthly event featuring producers of indigenous, organic fruits and vegetables; artisanal deli products; cheese, wine and bakery products in addition to importers of hard-tofind gourmet ingredients. Some of the familiar names that are likely to be part of the event are Trikaya Agriculture, Impero and Flanders cheese and Mulshi Springs mineral water. The market will be held on the E Deck, an open-air area of the Westin Hotel that overlooks the Mula Mutha River.

Products courtesy FOODHALL Photographs VINIT BHATT

T DELICIUS MUSSEL Steeped in brine, these plump mussels are firm to touch and taste and have a mildly fibrous consistency at the end. We loved that all the flavours of the sea were intact and that instantly perked up our mixed seafood salad. Apart from gobbling them on their own, we made the most out of our bottle by tossing some of the mussels into tomato basil pasta and grinding some of them to make a paté-like spread for crackers. ` 399 for a 100g bottle

T BLUE DRAGON SLICED BAMBOO SHOOTS & WATER CHESTNUTS These ready-to-use tinned veggies can be utilised in anything from quick stir-fries to curries. Mainly used for their crunchy texture, canned water chestnuts are less sweet (but as nutty) as the fresh ones. On the upside, they take on the flavour of the sauce they are cooked in. The same goes with the bamboo shoots, which, though mildly fibrous, have a distinct taste. ` 95 for a 225g tin

T PASTIFICIO BOLOGNESE TORTELLINI We picked the porcini mushroom-stuffed tortellini made by this Italian brand from Bologna, but also available are the cheese, ham, ricotta and spinach varieties. We tossed the tortellini briefly in olive oil, garlic and added a sprinkling of Parmesan but it works just as well in a heavier tomato or cream-based sauce. The tortellini itself is full of flavour from the mushrooms but we were rather disappointed with the pasty filling; we’d prefer tiny chunks of porcini mushrooms. ` 167 for a 250g

HAUTE

HAPPENING

Get your first taste of the hottest new restaurants

HOME STYLE

TABLE HOPPING

BONG BONG, MUMBAI

SERAFINA, MUMBAI

Bong Bong’s USP is that it gives timeless Bengali classics a modern edge. This philosophy translates into dishes like Railway Chicken Curry; Bengali-style Mini Burgers and Broccoli and Mango Pickle Envelopes. The reasonably priced restaurant has all-day nibbles, serving snacks in the afternoon and biryani and rolls after midnight. Bong Bong, Silver Croft, 16th Road, Bandra (W). Tel: +91 22 65555567

Chic north Italian cuisine comes calling to Mumbai with Serafina. The city’s outpost is the latest pit stop of the American restaurant chain that is best known for its wood fired, thin-crust pizzas; pizza-like focaccia; a wide range of pastas and luscious desserts such as tiramisu and cheesecake. Although authentic, all this carb-heavy goodness comes at a steep price. Serafina, Palladium Mall, High Street Phoenix, Lower Parel. Tel: +91 22 40237711

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SMOKE HOUSE BBQ, NEW DELHI Cool December weather and barbecues are a match made in heaven. Get your fill of both at Smoke House BBQ, the hip new sibling of Smoke House Room — it offers a variety of grilled favourites, including 3 Cheese Stuffed Jalapenos and a massive, messy and meaty Chipotle Tenderloin Burger. Smokehouse BBQ, The Crescent Mall, Lado Sarai, Mehrauli. Tel: +91 11 29523737 DECEMBER 2012

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Exclusive Hacker Showrooms in India : DELHI 9313134488

MUMBAI 9324918491

HYDERABAD 9700058285

BENGALURU 9740999350

KOCHI 9895058285

E-mail: [email protected] Website: www.haecker-india.com / www.haecker-kuechen.com WorldMags.net

COIMBATORE 9500210555

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need to know news, trends, shopping

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food-o-meter

This month’s good vibes and gripes

T SPECIALITY FOOD STORES More and more Indian cities have speciality Korean, Japanese and even African food stores. Cool!

T ALL DAY BREAKFAST Bacon and eggs all day long? Why not? It’s the meal of champs.

CHEAT SHEET BURGERS

Think you know how to make a good burger? We explain the three golden rules

1

Start with good meat. Choose a butcher that you trust and ask for a cut of meat from the forequarter and get it minced coarsely twice. Press the mince into 180g patties with your hands, taking care not to overwork the mince.

2

T CHRISTMAS ROASTS The only bad thing about these is that you can only get them at Christmas.

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Use super fresh buns cut in two. When building your hamburger keep it simple by adding slices of tomatoes (the best you can find), a handful of fresh crisp lettuce, ripped to fit (iceberg is good) and thinly sliced red onion, with some mayonnaise, ketchup and mustard. Eat with one hand, or two — cutlery would be heresy!

Words TOM BYNG

A proper hamburger is best enjoyed when cooked pink with the juices flowing. To cook the patties, place them on a hot, ridged grill pan and season the exposed side with a little sea salt and pepper. Three minutes each side will produce a medium rare burger beautifully charred on the outside and pink and juicy on the inside. Gently ‘feel’ the patty with a spatula — soft will be rare and firm will be well done.

COCKTAIL OF THE MONTH Perfect for your Christmas party T POORLY LIT RESTAURANTS

Frosty bison

Are they trying to hide their dishes from us?

Serves 1 n 5 minutes n EASY

We dislike restaurants trying to dupe us by serving tiny portions and passing them off as small plates.

Pour 40ml vodka, 20ml cherry liqueur, 20ml lime juice, 20ml sugar syrup, 20ml ginger syrup and 25ml apple juice into a cocktail shaker. Grate in some nutmeg, shake and strain into a chilled coupette glass. Garnish with cinnamon powder and orange zest.

Photograph NICK KEANE

T MICROSCOPIC PLATES Thumbs photographs 123RF/ARCADY31

Recipe DOUGLAS GRAHAM

T TOO MANY EUROPEAN RESTAURANTS What happened to food from everywhere else?

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need to know pantry basics

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ON TEST Tortilla chips

Which brand of tortilla chips scores highest on the crunch factor? We try out six popular varieties Words KAINAZ CONTRACTOR Photographs VINIT BHATT Product courtesy FOODHALL

DISCOVERY ` 275/175G Devoid of much seasoning and herbs, Discovery’s salted tortilla chips are your best bet when making a plate of cheesy nachos. The flavourless chips don’t work well on their own and need to be lifted by a piquant salsa. Discovery’s Hot Salsa proved to be an ideal fiery partner. We’re happy to report that even after a generous slathering of guacamole, sour cream and pico de gallo, the chips retain their crunch.

LORENZ TACITOS ` 139/ 125G We like the mild cheese seasoning but the presence of cornflour as opposed to whole corn is evident in the smooth and doughy texture of the chips. The sodium content is high, which along with the cheese and onion-garlic seasoning, leaves our throats parched after a few bites. We would serve them on their own or with a chunky salsa to counteract the chips’ smoothness.

DORITOS LOVES ` 385/198G It is not the cheapest option, but Doritos continues to be our all-time favourite. The chips have a gritty, crisp texture and their thickness is just right. This is the only packet of nachos where the chips don’t need a pick-me-up in the form of a salsa. The almost-smoky cheese flavouring on the chips isn’t overpowering and doesn’t taste synthetic.

♥

TEX MEX SALSALITO ` 100/200G This Indian brand of salted nachos offers round chips. This makes them suited for holding a variety of toppings. Tex Mex’s chips come pretty close to Discovery’s in terms of texture and crispness and sadly in taste as well — we discern traces of stale oil. If you’re looking for something to munch on, minus the additional toppings, the cheese-flavoured pack fares much better.

POCO LOCO ` 175/200G This Belgian brand of mildly flavoured chilli nachos performs very well when put to the crunch test. The chips maintain their crispness long after being buried under a pile of guacamole and pico de gallo. But we find them difficult to bite after a while; the rough feeling on our palates doesn’t dissipate until later. This could be because of the addition of wheat flour with ground corn as part of the ingredients.

CORNITOS ` 75/150G Heavily spiced and seasoned, Cornitos’ cheese and Italian herbflavoured chips are intense in taste. We aren’t too taken by the additional herb seasoning. There is something a bit off-putting about the taste that we can’t put our finger on but we suspect it is the ‘healthier oil’ they’ve used (as printed on the packet). The texture of the chips though is spot on, plus Cornitos offers the most value for money.

Garlic press FRESH FORCE GARLIC PRESS ` 1,180 With a unique dual-gear mechanism, this press allows us to crush more garlic cloves with less effort. It is easy to squeeze due to the advanced mechanics and the wide handles that are easy to grip and apply pressure on. We love the swing-out stainless steel plates that make for easy cleaning — just pop the plate under a stream of water.

STAINLESS-STEEL BODY GARLIC PRESS ` 245 The sturdy, non-corrosive body of this press stands the test of time. We’ve had one in our kitchen for years and it has not let us down yet. The garlic is easily crushed by the grid of blunt pins that clean out the holes. It washes off easily under water but you should clean it thoroughly with a brush to avoid any residue.

LOVES

♥

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SILICON PRESS ` 279 The latest to climb on the silicon bandwagon, this press uses the same mechanism as the basic stainless-steel ones. The garlic is pressed with ease and comes out seamlessly. We had anticipated that more force would be needed for a silicon press, but that isn’t true. Of all the models we test, this is also the easiest to clean; the garlic doesn’t get lodged in the crevices.

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need to know news, trends, shopping

BARGAINHUNTER

WorldMags.net All prices PER HEAD excluding taxes and travel

BBC Good Food tracks down this month’s best value foodie events, meals and deals Words KAINAZ CONTRACTOR

T

` 188-A-HEAD DINNER PARTY FOR FOUR!

T Dijon and honey-glazed chicken and ` 167 watercress salad (p 78) T Aubergine and tomato grill (p 82) ` 214 T Strawberry trifle (p 116) ` 370 Total ` 751 (` 188 per head)

T

LADIES’ NIGHT AND HAPPY HOURS, MUMBAI

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` 595 ITALIAN SUNDAY LUNCH, DELHI NCR

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` 433 BREAKFAST BUFFET,

We miss the days before Sunday brunch monstrosities took over and each spread became increasingly extravagant and exorbitantly priced. For those times when we’re not prepared for a food-induced coma but would still like to nibble on a selection of dishes, we like to go for offers like the one at 56 Italiano Ristorante. Its Italian Sunday Slurp offers a classic Italian spread of fresh mozzarella and tomato salad, antipasti platter with bruschetta, thin-crust pizzas, light pastas and desserts such as tiramisu, fruit salad and dark chocolate cake. What’s better is that the lunch comes with a complimentary beer or choice of mocktails. (Tel: +91 8130394009)

BENGALURU

If there’s one thing that can get us out of bed before 7 am, it’s the prospect of a hearty breakfast. Which is why we’ve got our heart set on the buffet at the Latitude, Vivanta for our next morning meal. This coffee shop has a nutritious spread of brekkie favourites for ` 433. The fare includes an unlimited array of cereals, yoghurt, soups, breakfast pastries, wholegrain breads, French toast, scrambled eggs with oyster mushrooms, bacon and sausages along with an exhaustive spread of south Indian breakfast specialities. We plan on parking ourselves near the live pancake, waffle and juice counters until the last order at 10.30 am. (Tel: +91 80 66933333)

When planning a night out, we’ve found this to be the most heated point of argument – ladies who want to make the most of the free tipples on bar nights dedicated to them, arguing with the disgruntled men in the group who get no such privileges. That’s why we think Tote on the Turf’s idea of hosting Ladies’ Night and Happy Hours on the same night is a stroke of genius. Start your weekend revelry at 6 pm every Friday at Tote with a one-on-one offer on all beverages that lasts till 10 pm. Starting 9 pm, ladies can heed the call of the bartender who will be dispensing potent cocktails (Black Russian, Mojito, Bloody Mary and more) for the next two hours. (Tel: +91 22 61577777) 52 BBC GoodFood

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DECEMBER 2012

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need to know

Madras cucumber So what’s at the heart of the ubiquitous yet mysterious Madras cucumber? We split open the origins of this rotund south Indian staple Words VIDYA BALACHANDER Photograph RITAM BANERJEE

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hat’s oval, about the size of a baseball and striped green and yellow all over? Is it a vegetable or a fruit? Chances are, you won’t know the answer. And yet, if you walk through a market, you wouldn’t be able to miss this distinct looking vegetable that appears to be a cross between a watermelon and a yellow pumpkin. As its name suggests, you are most likely to find a Madras cucumber in a south Indian speciality market. The Madras cucumber is related to crunchy kakdi. (Cucumbers are fruits, but for all practical purposes, are prepared as vegetables). It is a member of the Cucurbitaceae family, which includes squashes, melons and gourds which might explain its visual similarity to gourds and melons. Not much is known about how the Madras cucumber came to acquire its moniker. Its botanical name, Cucumis Maderaspatensis, implies that the vegetable originated in the Madras region. According to botanist Avinash Khaire, this refers to the erstwhile Madras province as defined under British law, which extended to present-day Tamil Nadu, Andhra Pradesh, parts of Karnataka and Kerala. According to the Hortus Kewensis or A Catalogue of The Plants Cultivated in the Royal Botanic Garden at Kew, a seminal book on English horticulture, Scottish botanist William Roxburgh, known as the Father of Indian botany, introduced the Madras cucumber to India’s east coast in 1805.

54 BBC GoodFood

Going by name alone, the Madras cucumber may seem like a close relative of Cucumis Maderaspatanus, also known as the Madras pea pumpkin, a creeper yielding small, scarlet berries. However, the two plants belong to completely different species. In actuality, the Madras cucumber shares more similarities with the musk melon. The best way to appreciate the unique qualities of the Madras cucumber is to simply slice one open. Its striped rind is tough yet yields easily. Its cream-coloured flesh (much like a musk melon’s) has the crunchy, watery texture of a cucumber yet holds its form when cooked. The seeds are edible yet mildly bitter, which is why the vegetable is often deseeded before it is used. Most cucumbers fall into one of two categories: they are either grown to be sliced and eaten fresh (known

mainly in south India. It also finds the maximum number of uses in the cuisines of Tamil Nadu, Andhra Pradesh and coastal Karnataka. Its mild flavour lends itself well to strong, fragrant preparations such as sambhar. But it seems to find particular favour in traditional Mangalorean vegetarian recipes. Known by a variety of local names such as Mangalore southekayi (or cucumber) and thouthe, it is used to make tangy curries and is also simply stir-fried, sometimes with a coconut and raw mango paste, to make a palya or vegetable side dish. In Andhra Pradesh, where the yellowish gourd is called dosakaya, it is used to add heft and nutritive value to tuvar dal in a dish known as dosakayapappu. It is also made into a spicy pickle called dosavakaya. Like all other varieties of cucumbers, Madras cucumbers

“Most cucumbers fall into one of two categories: they are either grown to be sliced and eaten fresh or to be pickled in brine” as slicing cucumbers) or to be pickled in brine (pickling cucumbers, such as gherkins). The Madras cucumber seems to fall somewhere between these categories: it is usually cooked and not eaten raw. Its flesh also has a slight sourness, which lends itself well to pickling. True to its name, the Madras cucumber continues to be cultivated

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are an excellent source of fibre, especially when they are unpeeled. Rich in vitamins A, C, E and K, they also contain antioxidants that help to delay the ageing process. But most importantly, they have an easy, agreeable flavour that is enhanced even by simple accoutrements. That’s as good a reason as any to give these colourful gourds a try. DECEMBER 2012

spotlight madras cucumber

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investigates

vs

Don’t tar all fat with the same brush – some kinds are actually good for you. BBC Good Food shows you how to tell the difference

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t is easy to malign fat as the root of all our lifestyle ills. It lurks in the food we eat; it stealthily shows up on the weighing scale; it is easy to pack on and toughas-nails to shed; and yet, it adds an unmistakable depth of flavour to the food we eat. Why do we share such a love-hate relationship with fat? Which fats should you befriend and which ones should you shun? Can you eliminate fat completely from your diet – and more importantly, should you? Going by the alarming statistics alone, too much fat is clearly a problem that is crying out for attention. According to the World Health Organisation’s World Health Statistics published in 2012, one in 58 BBC GoodFood

six adults in the world is obese and one in 10 is diabetic. Although the figures are most alarming in the United States, India doesn’t fare much better. Indians have a strong genetic predisposition to diabetes, a metabolic condition that is strongly linked to obesity. Currently, according to the WHO, the incidence of diabetes among Indians has reached epidemic proportions with nearly 10 per cent of the urban population living with the disease. The obvious solution to this burgeoning problem may seem to be to remove fatty foods from your diet or do away with visible fat (or any fat that is used directly or in cooking, such as oil, butter or ghee), altogether. That’s the conventional wisdom that

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has guided dietary advice for the last few decades. Yet, the evidence seems to suggest that a fat or oil-free diet doesn’t automatically equate to better health. According to a paper published by the Harvard School of Public Health (with statistics provided by nutritional think tank, the United States Department of Agriculture Center for Nutrition Policy and Promotion), compared to the 1960s, Americans are taking in fewer calories through fat. While they derived nearly 45 per cent of their average calories from fat in the ’60s, fats comprise only 33 per cent of their calorie intake now. Yet, while less than 1 per cent of the population had Type 2 diabetes in the ’60s, nearly 11 per cent of the American population DECEMBER 2012

Photographs 123RF/SAI0112, TROMBAX, ARCADY31

Words VIDYA BALACHANDER

need to know food issues

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is now diabetic. If awareness about fat and its impact on health is going up, why isn’t obesity on the ebb? The answer lies in a complex equation that involves dietary fat, carbohydrates and calories, and how they collude to create fat in the body. To understand the subject better, it is important to comprehend the role that fat plays in the human body.

WHY YOU NEED IT Generally speaking, a certain proportion of fat is required for the smooth functioning of several bodily processes. Fats are one of three major

unsaturated fats, saturated fats and trans fats. Unsaturated fats are fats derived from plant sources, such as vegetable oils and those found in nuts and seeds. They are mainly liquid at room temperature. Unsaturated fats boost the levels of high-density lipoproteins or HDL, which is commonly referred to as ‘good’ cholesterol. In actuality, HDL is a compound that carries cholesterol away from the blood stream and arteries into the liver, where it is broken down and excreted from the body. In other words, HDL helps to unclog arteries and plays a significant role in promoting good health. Unsaturated fat is of two kinds:

“If awareness about fat and its impact on health is going up, why isn’t obesity on the ebb? The answer lies in a complex equation that involves dietary fat, carbohydrates and calories, and how they all collude to create fat in the body” nutritional components – the other two are carbohydrates and proteins – that provide energy to the body. In fact, of the three, fats provide the most energy, with each gram of fat packing in nine calories, more than twice the amount provided by carbohydrates or proteins. Fat is also required for healthy skin and hair and for the body to absorb fat-soluble vitamins such as vitamin A, D, E and K. Essential fatty acids are also crucial for hormone production, which is why a diet extremely deficient in them can have an adverse impact, especially on women’s health. With so much power packed into fat, it’s no wonder that you have to be judicious while consuming it. According to the latest dietary guidelines issued by the National Institute of Nutrition in Hyderabad, fats should contribute between 20 to 30 per cent of your daily calorie intake. (The daily calorie requirement is 2,000 calories for a woman and 2,500 calories for a man). If you have a sedentary lifestyle, your intake of fat should be no more than 20g per day. But since proportions are difficult to understand in the context of everyday meals, the rule of thumb is to ensure that hearthealthy ‘good’ fats, which contain essential fatty acids, crowd out artery-clogging ‘bad’ fats in your meals. In order to understand this better, it is important to be aware of the distinction between different kinds of fat.

THE DIFFERENT TYPES Broadly, dietary fats are of three main kinds:

Monounsaturated fats: These are found in nuts such as almonds and hazelnuts; cooking oils such as olive, peanut and canola; fat-rich fruits such as avocados and seeds such as pumpkin and sesame. Polyunsaturated fats: Sunflower, corn and soya bean oils are rich in this kind of unsaturated fat, as are walnuts, flax seeds and fish. Omega-3 oils, which have been hailed for their nutritive properties, are also a kind of polyunsaturated fat and are found in high proportions in fish. Saturated fats: Once condemned as the arch villains of the fat world, opinion has softened about saturated fat in recent times. Saturated fats are mainly derived from animal sources. The list of saturated fats includes butter, cheese, cream and ghee, apart from lard and other animal fat, whole milk and dairy products and fatty meats such as skin-on chicken, beef, lamb, pork and bacon. Some kinds of plant-based oils such as coconut and palm oil also contain saturated fat. Saturated fats are an important carrier of fatsoluble vitamins so it is important to include a small proportion of them in your diet. But they contribute in the creation of low-density lipoproteins (LDL or ‘bad’ cholesterol), which carry cholesterol from the liver to the rest of the body. An excess of LDL clogs the walls of the arteries and affects blood flow to the heart. So it’s important to keep tabs on the amount of saturated fat you consume.

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need to know food issues

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Photograph CORBIS@ULRIKE SCHMID

WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW n Cholesterol is a waxy, fat-like compound produced by the body, which helps to build and maintain cell membranes. Hence, it is essential for the proper functioning of the body. Only humans and animals produce cholesterol, so plant-based oils don’t contain it. If there is an excess of cholesterol in the body, the particles deposit themselves along the walls of arteries causing them to thicken and restricting blood flow. In the long run, this condition can lead to heart attacks or strokes. n Ever since awareness about trans fats has increased, many manufacturers avoid mentioning it on food labels. At any rate, give preference to products that have nil or negligible amounts of trans fat. If you find ‘partially hydrogenated oil’ among the ingredients, it means a trans fat has been used. n According to the National Institute of Nutrition, the ideal ratio of polyunsaturated to saturated fats should be 0.8:1 and Omega-3 to Omega-6 should be 5:10. To read the NIN’s dietary guidelines, visit ninindia.org.

Saturated fat such as ghee is good in small portions Trans fats: Trans fats are the worst kind of fat – they don’t have any health benefits and instead, actually compromise your health in the long run. Hence, they need to be avoided completely. Unfortunately, trans fats lurk in most deep fried and fast food such as biscuits, cookies, crackers, doughnuts and French fries. Trans fats are made by heating liquid vegetable oil in the presence of hydrogen so that the oil takes on a solid form that is less likely to become rancid. But this process changes the basic composition of the oil. Trans fats actually reduce the amount of good cholesterol in the body and raise the amount of bad cholesterol, so limit your intake of these to less than 2 per cent or negligible quantities.

ROTATE AND BLEND It is also essential to remember that no single source of fat can give you all the nutrients you need – it takes a little mix and match. According to Dr D Raghunatha Rao, Deputy Director and head of the department of Extension and Training at the National Institute of Nutrition in 60 BBC GoodFood

Hyderabad, it is very important to use a combination of unsaturated cooking oils. For instance, mustard, soya bean and rapeseed oil contain alpha linoleic acid or N3, a kind of fatty acid that helps in blood thickening and restricting inflammation. These fatty acids are also called Omega-3. On the other hand, rice bran oil, sunflower oil, cottonseed oil and corn oil are rich in another fatty acid known as linoleic acid or N6 (also Omega-6), which promotes blood flow. Both kinds of fatty acids are required for the body to stay in balance. According to the NIN’s dietary guidelines, a good combination of cooking oils would be groundnut, sesame or rice bran oil along with mustard, canola and soya bean oil. If you use sunflower or safflower oil, then complement it with groundnut, sesame or olive oil. Olive oil is a goldmine of all the essential fatty acids; hence it makes for a versatile addition to your diet.

BEWARE OF CARBS While controlling the amount of fat we consume, we often ignore a

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far more worrisome element of our diets: simple carbohydrates, such as those found in polished rice, refined flour, pasta, biscuits, sugary drinks and so on. Simple carbohydrates offer an instantaneous and shortlived burst of energy to the body. They metabolise quickly and flood the bloodstream with a large amount of sugar. This surge in sugar levels causes the pancreas to produce a large amount of insulin to counter it. Insulin acts on blood sugar and the excess is converted into fat through a process known as lipogenesis. In the long run, a carbrich diet inhibits the body’s natural fat-busting enzymes and encourages it to put away glucose as fat. In other words, a diet swamped with simple carbohydrates doesn’t offer the body the incentive it requires to start using its fat reserves. Clearly, there is no straightforward solution to the problem of piling on the pounds except making a definitive and long-standing change to your diet and exercise patterns. But a little awareness and mindful eating can go a long way in restoring the balance that has gone awry. DECEMBER 2012

PROMOTION

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The kitchen goes chic

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he Kitchen Specialist makes your kitchen a dream to work in, with its assortment of accessories, appliances, hardware, shutters and kitchens. Sleek accessories give conventional storage space a complete facelift. Check out the amazing new Swivel Larder Unit that rotates a full circle to give you a 360 degree view. Twin corner units transform wasted corners into an indispensible space to store all your heavy utensils like pressure cookers, big pots and pans. The new SS 304 wire accessories are strong enough to withstand a load capacity of upto 150 kgs. Sleek’s appliances incorporate the latest global technology. The Sleek chimney comes with a high suction capacity of 1000m3/hr, which eliminates a smoke and grime filled kitchen. With functions like energy efficiency and auto-ignition, Sleek hobs mean increased safety and ease. Surging forward with an eclectic range of shutters, Sleek provides vibrancy and liveliness to an otherwise drab kitchen. Shutters in solid wood, MDF, Marine Ply and Particle board, with

finishes in Veneers, Membrane, lacquered, Postform 4 side edge banding and glass will leave you spoilt for choice. Another marvel from Sleek, the Kitchen Specialist is its sturdy range of hardware. Drawers with Airmatic soft-closing technology for easy pull and push, lift-up flaps that open upwards to prevent collision and telescopic channels with ease in operation. Since the specialist understands the needs of the new-age Indian thoroughly, it has tied up with the world’s best brands like GRASS, SIGE, TECNOINOX, TERIM and LAMP to bring in the class and sophistication of international products to Indian kitchens.

Gourmet shopping goes online!

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live Tree Trading has been importing superior quality Mediterranean food products since 2001, directly from the producer’s factories, thus maintaining quality and freshness of the products. The finest Mediterranean foods and select Japanese ingredients, which are usually available at select retail outlets across the country, may now be procured from the Olive Tree Trading gourmet online store, delivered to your address anywhere across India. Their careful selection of products include Italian regional olive oils by Olitalia, superior aged vinegars by A. G. Cremonini, hand stuffed olives by Olea Europaea, antipasti, pesto and pasta sauces, paté and toppings by Sacla, a range of breads by Finn Crisp and Monviso, truffle products by Tartufalba, Swiss breakfast cereal by Familia, Silk soymilk, silken tofu by Mori-Nu, dried porcini mushrooms, Italian black rice, amarena cherries, biscotti, as well as customised orders for Japanese ingredients and customised gift hampers.

Shopping for superior quality international food products was never this easy and convenient! Log on to olivetreetrading.com.

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need to know books

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books & cooks Check out the top foodie reads this month Words MEHER MIRZA

Recipe MICHAEL MCCANLEY Photograph NOEL MURPHY courtesy Gluten Free Baking

New Complete Techniques Jacques Pépin At Good Food, we’re always cautious of using big words like ‘seminal’, but there’s no other way to describe this book. Jacques Pépin, French chef extraordinaire and perhaps the best chef in America (Julia Child’s verdict, not ours), has come up with this much-anticipated manual on French cooking. Complicated French dishes become easy with his step-by-step photographs of difficult techniques. In New Complete Techniques, you’ll find everything to do with French eating, right from how to make hollandaise sauce to crafting butter flowers. Available from Black Dog and Leventhal for ` 2,207

Roasted hazelnut shortbread Makes 18 n 35 minutes n EASY Preheat the oven to 180˚C. Grease 1-2 baking trays with butter and line them with baking paper. Put 90g icing sugar, 190g gluten-free plain flour, 60g gluten-free cornflour, 35g chopped hazelnuts and 30g ground almonds into a bowl.

62 BBC GoodFood

Dining with the Maharajas Neha Prasada Can you compress hundreds of years of culinary tradition into one book? Neha Prasada does just that in Dining with the Maharajas, a book that traces the culinary heritage of 10 royal families across India. We learn that Maharaja Bhupinder Singh of Patiala once hosted a banquet for a visiting ruler with 200 dishes; that Maharaja Ganga Singh of Bikaner purchased silver moustache spoons to enjoy his soup without sullying his facial hair; and that in Sailana, puris were served which, when broken, would startle diners with a bird flying out of them. Available from Roli Books for ` 4,000

Gluten Free Baking - Michael McCamley This book makes cooking for people with gluten allergies, a breeze. After much scouring through shops, we found ourselves a big bag of gluten-free flour and proceeded to bake our way through this book. The Individual Chicken and Ham Pot Pies came out splendid, although the crust took a bit longer than the stipulated 30 minutes to bake. Next up, the Carrot Cake came out of the oven, fluffy and flavourful. The only problem with this book is that it assumes the easy availability of gluten-free products in the market. India’s not quite there yet. Available from Parragon Publishing for ` 495

Rub in 250g butter and 1/2 tsp vanilla essence until the ingredients form a dough. Turn out onto a floured surface and knead slightly. Roll out to a thickness of 1cm. Cut out 16-18 rounds using a 7cm cutter and place on the baking tray. Bake in the oven for 10-15 minutes until golden. Remove from the oven and dust with caster sugar while still warm. Allow to cool on a wire rack.

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Prashad - Kaushy Patel You won’t miss your meat with Kaushy Patel’s Prashad cookbook. UK restaurateur and runner-up in Gordon Ramsay’s television show, Ramsay’s Best Restaurant, Patel’s book offers more than 100 Indian vegetarian recipes. The dishes are mostly Punjabi and Gujarati in origin but Patel often innovates and adds a bit of a twist to the cooking. There’s also a section on the West’s latest culinary fetish — street eats. Available from Hodder and Stoughton for ` 1,905 Eat with your Hands - Zakary Pelaccio Put down the cutlery and pick up Eat With Your Hands instead; in his latest book, Pelaccio, the talented chef of New York City’s Fatty Cue, gets messy with his brand of meaty, Southeast Asian-inflected recipes. There’s quite a casual, party vibe going on — some drink and music suggestions with recipes (Led Zeppelin with pickles, anyone?), a photograph of the chef with a beer bong and a sprinkling of expletives. But there’s also plenty of proper technique and real, solid cooking. Available from Ecco Press for ` 2,299 You can buy this month’s books online at flipkart.com and landmarkonthenet.com.

DECEMBER 2012

need to know food shows

WorldMags.net MAKING AIRWAVES

What’s on

CHEF RAKESH SETHI

Tune in to this month’s best food TV and radio shows Words VIDYA BALACHANDER

ON THE PLATE ROTI, RAASTA AUR INDIA

TV TASTING

SARANSH GOILA

It is every foodie’s culinary dream: to be able to traverse the length and breadth of the country, sampling the diversity of regional cuisines and seeking authentic food experiences. That’s precisely what chef and television anchor Saransh Goila does on Roti, Raasta Aur India, a travelogue-style show on the Food Food channel. On the show, Goila explores the road less travelled, accruing food experiences, cooking and eating with the communities he meets. Sample Goila’s signature style with his simple yet festive mithai recipe.

Chocolate kaju laddoo Serves 4 n 50 minutes + resting n EASY cashew nuts 1 cup, rose water 2 tbsp, water 1 tbsp, sugar 3/4 cup, cardamom powder 1/4 tsp, ghee 1/4 cup, melted chocolate nibs or chips 1/4 cup n Dry roast the cashew nuts and allow them to cool for a while. n Put the cashew nuts in a mixer and make a coarse powder. n Heat a non-stick pan, and add the rose water, water and sugar. When the syrup reaches a one-string consistency and starts bubbling, add cardamom powder, the powdered cashew nuts and ghee. Mix thoroughly and turn off the gas. n Grease your palms with a little ghee. While the mixture is warm, shape it into small laddoos. Put in the refrigerator to cool. n Coat the laddoos with chocolate nibs or chips and serve. Roti, Raasta Aur India airs every Friday at 8 pm on Food Food.

Food may have become ubiquitous on Indian television, but it is yet to establish its presence on radio. Celebrity chef Rakesh Sethi is poised to fill that lacuna, with his afternoon segment on all things food for radio channel, BIG 92.7 FM. Sethi, who has been appointed Culinary Head of Reliance Broadcast Network Limited, talks to us about this unique segment. WHAT’S THE BIGGEST CHALLENGE IN PRESENTING FOOD FOR RADIO? Cooking is definitely better understood when visually demonstrated. On radio, you need to cultivate the art of narrating recipes so that listeners are able to visualise what they are listening to. Each word should create a picture in the mind of the listeners and address all the nittygritties of the food-making process. WHAT ASPECTS OF FOOD WILL YOU DWELL ON? We will cover various aspects of food including how to make our everyday food healthier by changing methods of cooking and substituting some ingredients; festive and seasonal recipes; classic, universally loved dishes and simplifying them to make at home; and learning how to present food so that it looks like it has been made in a restaurant. We will also share kitchen trivia and special cooking tips with our listeners. Chef Rakesh Sethi’s segment airs on weekdays at 1 pm on BIG 92.7 FM.

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need to know night out

Celebrate!

WorldMags.net Raspberry Martini

Easy, delicious ways to prettify a glass of bubbly

fizz

Makes 8 n 10 minutes n EASY Recipe SARA BUENFELD n Mix 350ml vermouth and 150ml gin together and chill or store in a bottle if making ahead. If you have room in your fridge or freezer, chill your champagne glasses, too. n When your guests are due to arrive, spoon 2 tsp icing sugar into 8 champagne glasses. Pour over the mixture, mix with a spoon and add 24 raspberries (try Ocean Spray available at gourmet stores). Top up with champagne just before serving.

Ginger champagne cocktail Serves 6 n 25 minutes n EASY Recipe LULU GRIMES n Put 250g caster sugar (try Tate & Lyle available at gourmet shops) and 250ml water in a saucepan and bring to the boil. n Add 2 tbsp grated ginger and the zest of 1 lemon. Cool, then strain out the bits. n Pour into a jug, add a couple of shakes of bitters and top up with a bottle of chilled champagne or sparkling wine. Add some halved, very thin slices of lemon.

Champagne jelly shots

Recipe LULU GRIMES n Soak 2 sheets gelatine in cold water for 5 minutes until softened, then squeeze out. Heat 2 tbsp champagne or any sparkling wine with 1 tbsp caster sugar and then stir in the gelatine until dissolved. Add this to 400ml champagne or any sparkling wine and stir. Pour into a bowl and chill until set. Rough up with a fork and then spoon into shot glasses. Sprinkle with edible glitter if you like.

Raspberry Martini fizz

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Photograph MYLES NEW

Makes 12 n 15 minutes + setting time n EASY

eat in

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48 pages of festive recipes, from classic Christmas cooking and elegant party menus to dreamy strawberry desserts IN THIS ISSUE

T Seven meals for ` 700, p 66 T Ready in 30-minute dishes, p 74 T Low-fat veggie winners, p 80 T Easy home-style Parsi dishes, p 85 T The perfect Christmas feast , p 94 T Clever party menus, p 102 T Show-off strawberry puds , p 109

Chocolate pudding with spiced berry syrup, p 98

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7

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meals for `700 Plan a week’s worth of stylish meals from around the world

MONDAY Brunch burritos Serves 2 n 20 minutes n EASY

TUESDAY Kongunaatu kozhi rasam (chicken rasam)

INGREDIENTS CHECKLIST SHOPPING BASKET roasted red peppers 3 arugula 2 handfuls tortillas 6 Mexican seasoning mix 1/2 tsp lettuce a bunch cherry tomatoes 100g avocados 2 spring onions 10 stalks green peas 50g coriander leaves a bunch shiitake mushrooms 150g pumpkin 200g edamame beans 50g beef 200g basil leaves a bunch Parmesan cheese 25g tomatoes 200g linguine pasta 150g feta cheese 70g chicken (with bones) 100g chorizo sausages 4 pieces spinach 100g

STORE CUPBOARD

lemon garlic cloves red chillies basmati rice soy sauce sesame oil red onions cloves cinnamon sugar sweet potatoes eggs chilli sauce fennel seeds cumin seeds peppercorns coriander seeds curry leaves chicken stock

spring onions 4, finely chopped butter 1 tbsp eggs 4, beaten roasted red peppers from a jar 3, sliced (try Jamie Oliver available at gourmet stores) avocado 1, sliced tortillas 4, warmed (try Old El Paso available at gourmet stores) arugula 2 handfuls REALLY chilli sauce to serve REALLY

QUICK

n Cook the spring onions in butter in a non-stick frying pan until soft. Add the eggs and scramble softly. Divide the eggs, peppers and avocado between the warm tortillas. Add some rocket and roll up. Serve with chilli sauce. n PER SERVING 629 kcals, protein 26.8g, carbs 51.6g, fat 36.6g, sat fat 9.9g, fibre 8g, salt 4.12g

`69

.5 TOTAL8 F O 7 MEALSR

butter onions vegetable stock olive oil

66 BBC GoodFood

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Recipe NAREN THIMMAIAH Photograph SUDEEP GURTU Props courtesy FABINDIA sesame oil 3 1/2 tbsp cinnamon 2 cloves 2 fennel seeds (saunf) 1 tsp cumin seeds 1 tsp peppercorns 1 tbsp coriander seeds 1/2 cup, dried red chillies 2, dried curry leaves 2-3 sprigs poppy seeds 1 tsp onions 3, finely chopped chicken (with bones) 100g n Heat 1/2 tbsp oil in a cast-iron pan. Roast the cinnamon, cloves, fennel seeds, cumin seeds, peppercorns, coriander seeds, red chillies and curry leaves. Add the poppy seeds and roast for 2 more minutes. Transfer this to a bowl and allow to cool. n In the same pan, add one more tbsp of oil and sauté the onions. Let it cool. Add the onions to the spice mix. Grind everything together until you obtain a fine paste. n In a pressure cooker, heat the remaining oil and sauté the chicken for 10 minutes. Add the ground paste and 5 cups of water. Pressure cook up to two whistles. Use a soup strainer to filter the rasam. Season well and serve hot. n PER SERVING 277 kcals, protein 15.3g, carbs 30.7g, fat 12.9g, sat fat 1.55g, fibre 12.7g, salt none DECEMBER 2012

Recipe JANINE RATCLIFFE Photograph GARETH MORGANS Styling MORAG FARQUHAR Food styling JANINE RATCLIFFE

Photograph DAVID MUNNS

Serves 2 n 30 minutes n EASY

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eat in everyday

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THURSDAY Linguine with spicy meatball sauce Serves 2 n 40 minutes n EASY

WEDNESDAY Pumpkin, mushroom and rice bowls Serves 2 n 30 minutes n EASY olive oil 1 tbsp spring onions 1/2 bunch, sliced + extra to finish garlic clove 1, finely sliced red chilli 1, sliced shiitake mushrooms 150g, sliced (if using dried, rehydrate them first) pumpkin 200g, peeled and diced basmati rice 100g vegetable stock 250ml soy sauce 2 tbsp edamame beans 50g, shelled sesame oil 1 tsp 68 BBC GoodFood

n Heat olive oil in a wide shallow pan with a lid and cook the spring onions, garlic and chilli for 2 minutes. Add the mushrooms and pumpkin and cook for another 3 minutes. Tip in the rice, stock and soy and bring to a boil. Turn down to a low simmer, put on a lid and leave for 20-25 minutes until the rice is tender, stirring in the edamame beans for the last 5 minutes. Serve sprinkled with sesame oil, a little soy and a handful of chopped spring onions. n PER SERVING 363 kcals, protein 11.2g, carbs 53.5g, fat 11.1g, sat fat 1.5g, fibre 6.6g, salt 3.1g

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n Put the mince in a bowl with 1/2 the onion, 1/2 the basil, the Parmesan cheese, breadcrumbs and a pinch of chilli flakes. Season well then mix everything together and shape into small meatballs. n Heat a tbsp olive oil in a large pan and cook the meatballs until browned all over. n Scoop out, then add the remaining oil and cook the garlic for 2 minutes. Add the tomatoes, cloves, cinnamon and another pinch of chilli. Stir in the sugar then simmer for 10 minutes. Add back the meatballs and simmer for another 10-15 minutes. Scoop out the cloves and cinnamon and serve with the linguine, the rest of the basil and extra Parmesan. n PER SERVING 640 kcals, protein 39.8g, carbs 49.1g, fat 31.7g, sat fat 11.9g, fibre 2g, salt 0.7g DECEMBER 2012

Recipe LUCY NETHERTON Photograph GARETH MORGANS Styling MORAG FARQUHAR Food styling LIZZIE HARRIS

beef or lamb 200g, minced red onion 1, grated basil leaves a small bunch, chopped Parmesan cheese 25g, finely grated + more to serve breadcrumbs a handful chilli flakes 2 pinches olive oil 2 tbsp garlic clove 1/2, sliced tomatoes 200g, chopped cloves 2 cinnamon 1/2 sugar 1 tsp linguine pasta 150g, cooked to serve (try Garofalo available at gourmet stores)

Recipe LUCY NETHERTON Photograph GARETH MORGANS Styling MORAG FARQUHAR Food styling LIZZIE HARRIS

eat in everyday

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SATURDAY Sweet potato, pea and feta frittata Serves 2 n 20 minutes n EASY

FRIDAY Mexican salad with tortilla croutons Serves 2 n 25 minutes n EASY tortillas 2, cut into crouton-sized pieces olive oil 1/2 tbsp Cajun or Mexican seasoning mix 1/2 tsp (try Keya available at gourmet stores) lettuce leaves a bunch, shredded black or kidney beans 200g, boiled cherry tomatoes 100g, halved avocado 1, sliced lime juice a few drops coriander leaves a bunch 70 BBC GoodFood

n Heat the oven to 200°C. Place the tortilla pieces on a baking tray, toss with the oil and the seasoning mix, then cook for 10-12 minutes until crisp. In a large bowl, toss the lettuce, beans and tomatoes. Toss the avocado in the lime juice and add to the bowl. n Drizzle over your chosen dressing and toss to coat all the ingredients. Top with the croutons and coriander, then serve. n PER SERVING 337 kcals, protein 11g, carbs 42g, fat 14g, sat fat 3g, fibre 9g, sugar 5g, salt 0.4g

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n Heat the olive oil in a non-stick frying pan, add the potatoes and season to taste. Cover and cook gently on low flame for 8-10 minutes, stirring now and again, until tender. Add the spring onions and cook for 2 minutes. Stir in the peas. n Put the flame on medium high. Pour the eggs over and shake the pan to distribute them evenly. Sprinkle over the feta. Leave it to cook for about 8 minutes, shaking the pan regularly, until the eggs are almost set. Flash the pan under the grill (optional) for a few minutes to finish cooking. Serve in wedges with chilli sauce. n PER SERVING 505 kcals, protein 23.6g, carbs 28.2g, fat 33g, sat fat 11.8g, fibre 4.6g, salt 2.3g DECEMBER 2012

Recipe LUCY NETHERTON Photograph GARETH MORGANS Styling MORAG FARQUHAR Food styling LIZZIE HARRIS

olive oil 2 tbsp sweet potatoes 250g, peeled and diced spring onions 4, shredded REALLY REALLY green peas 50g EASY eggs 4, whisked feta cheese 70g, crumbled (try Lemnos available at gourmet stores) chilli sauce to serve

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eat in everyday

WorldMags.net SUNDAY Chorizo and spinach one pot Serves 2 n 40 minutes n EASY olive oil 1 tbsp chorizo sausages 4 (try Tapas available at gourmet stores) onion 1, halved and thinly sliced chicken stock 250ml smoked paprika 1/2 tsp (try Verdu Canto available at gourmet stores) potatoes 250g, peeled and cut into chunks spinach 100g, chopped

n Heat olive oil in a large wide pan with a lid. Add the chorizo sausages and fry until browned all over. Scoop out then add the sliced onions and cook until golden. Add the stock, paprika and potatoes and put the sausages back. Simmer with a lid on for 15 minutes. Add the spinach, then keep simmering for another 10-15 minutes until the spinach and potatoes are tender. Serve with crusty bread. n PER SERVING 518 kcals, protein 28.3g, carbs 29.9g, fat 31.7g, sat fat 11.5g, fibre 4.4g, salt 2g

FOR A LIST OF STORES THAT STOCK GOURMET INGREDIENTS, TURN TO P 151

Recipe LUCY NETHERTON Photograph GARETH MORGANS Styling MORAG FARQUHAR Food styling LIZZIE HARRIS

eat in everyday

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Advertorial

WorldMags.net ZUCCHINI AND GOAT’S CHEESE BRUSCHETTA WITH OLIVE TAPENADE Serves 4 30 minutes EASY V zucchini 1, cut into thin, long strips French baguette bread 1, cut diagonally into slices olive oil 8 tsp + extra for grilling rosemary 4 stems tomatoes 2, deseeded and finely chopped goat’s cheese 250g salt and pepper to taste THE TAPENADE green olives 6 tbsp capers 3 tsp basil a handful + more to garnish olive oil 1/2 cup

n Take the long and thin slices of zucchini,

coat them in olive oil and place them on a flat Borosil baking dish. Take the crusty French bread slices and drizzle them generously with olive oil. Remove the needles from the rosemary stems and sprinkle them evenly on all the bread slices. Place in another Borosil baking dish. Place both the baking dishes in the oven. Bake for about 15 minutes until the bread is light brown and the zucchini is soft and lightly charred. n While the bread and zucchini bakes,

make the olive tapenade by putting all the ingredients into a mixer and blitzing to a chunky paste. Leave aside. n Remove the bread from the oven; layer

each bread slice with one zucchini slice. Top with fresh tomatoes and season to taste. Add some crumbled goat's cheese and chopped basil on each slice as a garnish. Serve with the tapenade on the side.

Borosil kitchen

Send your favourite continental recipe and you could win a

Gift Hamper courtesy

Borosil's range of Microwavables product are made of special borosilicate glass, which help ensure fresher, healthier cooking. Cooking in glass requires less oil, less salt and retains more essential nutrients. Borosil Microwavables can withstand temperatures upto 300°C, and unlike plastic, do not leech chemicals into food when heated. Our products stay odorless and stain free. The entire Microwavables range is fridge and freezer safe, making it easy to cook and store food. Borosil. Because nothing less will do.

WorldMags.net Send in your recipe, age and address to BBC Good Food, Worldwide Media, Response 2nd floor, Times of India Building, Dr D N Road, Fort, Mumbai - 400001, you can also mail your entries to [email protected]

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Ready in 30

Whip up these delicious recipes in half an hour or less Vegetable minestrone Serves 4 n 30 minutes n EASY

n Heat the oil in a large saucepan, add the leeks and celery, and cook for 8 minutes until soft. Add the courgettes and garlic. Cook gently for 5 minutes more. n Pour in the stock and simmer, covered, for 10 minutes. Add the asparagus, peas and broad beans, and cook for a further 4 minutes, until just cooked through. Stir in the chopped basil and season well. Scatter with basil leaves and serve with crusty bread. n PER SERVING 188 kcals, protein 10g, carbs 13g, fat 11g, sat fat 2g, fibre 11g, sugar 7g, salt 0.7g

Ginger salmon with garlic pok choy Serves 2 n 30 minutes n EASY salmon fillets 2, skinless, 150g each ginger 2 tsp, cut into small matchsticks ginger juice 2 tbsp dark soy sauce 2 tbsp vegetable oil 1 tsp garlic clove 1, sliced 74 BBC GoodFood

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DECEMBER 2012

Recipe LIZZIE HARRIS Photograph GARETH MORGANS Styling MORAG FARQUHAR Food styling LIZZIE HARRIS

olive oil 3 tbsp leeks 2, finely sliced celery sticks 2, finely chopped courgettes 2, quartered lengthways, sliced garlic cloves 4, finely chopped vegetable stock 1l asparagus 250g, woody ends removed, chopped green peas 100g broad beans 200g basil a small bunch, chopped crusty bread to serve

Recipe KATE CALDER Photograph MAJA SMEND Styling ARABELLA McNIE Food styling KATE CALDER

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eat in everyday

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good for this, thaw them first) red chilli 1, finely sliced salt and pepper to taste n Cook the linguine following packet instructions. Add the veggies to the pasta for the last 3 minutes of cooking and drain. Heat oil in a small pan, add the garlic, prawns and chilli and toss together, season well. Once the prawns are cooked, divide the pasta and greens between 2 bowls and spoon them on top. n PER SERVING 519 kcals 519, protein 37.8g, carbs 79.4g, fat 7.7g, sat fat 1g, fibre none, salt none

Parmesan and hazelnut stuffed mushrooms with pesto dressing Serves 2 n 30 minutes n EASY

pok choy 2-3 heads, roughly chopped sesame oil 1 tsp basmati rice 250g, steamed n Heat the oven to 200°C. Put the salmon fillets in the middle of a large square of baking parchment spaced 5cm apart and put in a roasting tin. Divide the ginger between the tops of each fillet and fold up the sides of the parchment ready to seal. Drizzle the ginger juice and soy sauce over the fillets and then seal the parcel. Cook in the oven for 15 minutes or until just cooked through. n Heat the vegetable oil in a pan. Add the garlic and the white parts of the pok choy to the pan and cook until tender, about 5 minutes. Add the green 76 BBC GoodFood

pok choy tops and sesame oil and cook for a further 2 minutes. Serve the salmon with the pok choy, rice and a drizzle of the juices over the top. n PER SERVING 560 kcals, protein 37.6g, carbs 59.2g, fat 20g, sat fat 3.9g, fibre 3.3g, salt 3.4g

Linguine with prawns, spring greens and chilli Serves 2 n 20 minutes n EASY linguine pasta 200g (try Waitrose available at Hypercity) pok choy and spinach 200g, trimmed and chopped olive oil 1 tbsp garlic clove 1, crushed raw peeled prawns 200g (frozen are

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n Heat the oven to 200°C. Season and rub the 6 whole mushrooms with oil, then put stalk side up on a baking sheet and roast for 15 minutes. Heat a tbsp of oil in a wide pan and add the chopped mushrooms, garlic and onion and cook until soft. Remove from heat and stir in the hazelnuts, parsley, most of the Parmesan and some seasoning. n Remove the mushrooms from the oven and stuff each with the hazelnut stuffing and then sprinkle over the remaining Parmesan. Put back in the oven for 10 minutes or until the cheese melts and turns golden. Serve with watercress or arugula and a drizzle of the pesto dressing. n PER SERVING 521 kcals, protein 24.5g, carbs 15.8g, fat 40.0g, sat fat 7.4g, fibre 6.7g, salt 0.7g

DECEMBER 2012

Recipe LULU GRIMES Photograph JEAN CAZALS Styling SUE ROWLANDS Food styling ALICE HART

Portobello mushrooms 8, 6 with the stems removed and 2 finely chopped olive oil 3 tbsp + 1 tsp garlic clove 1, finely chopped onion 1, finely chopped hazelnuts 50g, toasted and chopped parsley a small bunch, chopped Parmesan cheese 50g, finely grated watercress or arugula 50g pesto 2 tbsp, mixed with 1 tbsp warm water

Recipe KATE CALDER Photograph DAN JONES Styling POLLY WEBB WILSON Food styling KATE CALDER

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eat in everyday

WorldMags.net Dijon and honey-glazed chicken and watercress salad Dijon mustard 1 tbsp + 1 tsp extra honey 1 tbsp + 1 tsp extra extra virgin olive oil 2 tbsp chicken breasts 2, skinless and flattened out white wine vinegar 1 tbsp (try Cirio available at gourmet stores) watercress or arugula 100g red onion 1/2 small, finely sliced cucumber 1/2, seeds removed and sliced n Mix 1 tbsp each of mustard, honey and olive oil, and season. Spread all over the chicken. Heat a griddle to hot. n Griddle the chicken on both sides until cooked through, about 7 minutes on each side. Leave to rest for about 5 minutes then slice at an angle. Mix the vinegar with 1 tbsp olive oil, the remaining mustard and honey, and season. Toss the chicken with the watercress or arugula, red onion, cucumber and dressing, and serve. n PER SERVING 288 kcals, protein 33.4g, carbs 15.4g, fat 10g, sat fat 1.6g, fibre 1.7g, salt 1.2g

TASTE TEAM COMMENT

Tuscan bean and barley stew Serves 4 n 30 minutes n EASY olive oil 2 tbsp garlic clove 1, crushed carrots 2, diced small celery 2 sticks, diced leek 1 large, chopped vegetable stock 900ml tomato purée 1 tbsp barley 3 tbsp kidney beans 400g, boiled leafy greens about 150g, any woody stalks removed and shredded crusty bread to serve 78 BBC GoodFood

n Heat oil in a large pan, then add the garlic, carrots, celery and leeks and cook until softened. Add the stock, tomato purée and barley. Bring to a simmer then cook for 15-20 minutes until barley is just tender. Add the beans and greens and simmer for about 5 more minutes. Serve with crusty bread. n PER SERVING 196 kcals, protein 7.6g, carbs 25.5g, fat 7.8g, sat fat 0.8g, fibre 6.5g, salt 2.68g

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The honey wasn’t too overpowering, with just a hint of sweetness lingering. I felt that the salad was a little under-seasoned so I added salt and pepper to it. Watercress was not easily available, so I used regular lettuce instead. Season the salad liberally with salt and pepper to further enhance the taste. Renita Mascaren is a food lover who lives in Mumbai

DECEMBER 2012

Recipe JANINE RATCLIFFE Photograph GARETH MORGANS Styling MORAG FARQUHAR Food styling JANINE RATCLIFFE

Serves 2 n 30 minutes n EASY

Recipe KATE CALDER Photograph MAJA SMEND Styling ARABELLA McNIE Food styling KATE CALDER

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eat in everyday

Low-fat

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winners Eat well this festive season with these low-cal, high-taste veggie meals

Sweet potatoes with mushrooms and rosemary Serves 2 n 30 minutes n EASY sweet potatoes 2 olive oil 1 tbsp button mushrooms 200g, halved fresh rosemary 1 tsp, chopped Parmesan cheese 2 tbsp, grated

REALLY REALLY EASY

n Heat oven to 200°C. Prick the potatoes several times with a fork, then microwave on High for 8-10 minutes, turning once, until tender. Meanwhile, heat the oil in a non-stick pan, add the mushrooms and rosemary and cook over a fairly high heat, stirring, until the mushrooms are tender and lightly coloured. Season to taste. n Put the potatoes in the oven and roast for 15 minutes until the skins start to crisp. Split open and spoon over the mushrooms. Sprinkle with cheese to serve. n PER SERVING 359 kcals, protein 8g, carbs 65g, fat 9g, sat fat 3g, fibre 8g, sugar 17g, salt 0.47g

Microwave pumpkin risotto Serves 4 n 25 minutes n EASY arborio rice 250g (try De Cecco available at gourmet stores) vegetable stock 700ml pumpkin 1, medium Parmesan cheese a handful + extra, grated sage leaves a handful, roughly chopped n Tip the rice into a large bowl, then add 500ml of the hot vegetable stock. Cover with cling film and microwave on High for 5 minutes. Meanwhile, peel and cut the pumpkin into medium chunks. Stir the rice, then add the pumpkin and the rest of the 80 BBC GoodFood

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DECEMBER 2012

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eat in modern veggie

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n Rinse the capers and add to the pan with the tomatoes, paprika, peppers and olives. Check for seasoning, then cook for a few minutes more until heated through. Drain the pasta and toss with the sauce. Serve with lots of grated cheese, if you like. n PER SERVING 433 kcals, protein 14g, carbs 82g, fat 8g, sat fat 1g, fibre 6g, sugar 9g, salt 1.38g

Aubergine and tomato grill Serves 2 n 20 minutes n EASY aubergines 2, medium olive oil 4 tsp onion 1 small, chopped tomatoes 400g, very finely chopped goat’s cheese 85g (try Lemnos available at gourmet stores) dried breadcrumbs 3 tbsp

stock. Re-cover with cling film, then microwave for another 15 minutes, stirring halfway, until almost all the stock is absorbed and the rice and pumpkin are tender. n Leave the risotto to sit for 2 minutes, then stir in the cheese and sage. Serve topped with more grated cheese. n PER SERVING 313 kcals, protein 10g, carbs 66g, fat 3g, sat fat 1g, fibre 4g, sugar 9g, salt 1.04g

Store cupboard spaghetti puttanesca Serves 4 n 15 minutes n EASY spaghetti 400g olive oil 1 tbsp 82 BBC GoodFood

onion 1, sliced garlic clove 1, crushed capers 2 tbsp (try Fragata available at gourmet stores) tomatoes 400g, very finely chopped paprika a pinch (try Keya available at gourmet stores) roasted bell peppers 100g (try Jamie Oliver available at gourmet stores) black olives 16, pitted Parmesan cheese to serve (optional)

n Trim the stalks from the aubergines, then cut each into 6 slices lengthwise. Lay them in one layer on a grill pan and lightly brush with oil and a little seasoning. Grill until lightly browned, turn them over, brush with oil again, then grill until browned and tender. n Meanwhile, heat the remaining oil in a non-stick pan, add the onion and gently fry until softened. Add the tomatoes and simmer for 5 minutes. When the aubergines are cool, spread half the slices with a little soft cheese and cover with the remaining slices to make sandwiches. n Spread half the sauce over a shallow ovenproof dish. Arrange the aubergine sandwiches, overlapping, over the top, then pour over the remaining sauce. Sprinkle over the crumbs, then grill until browned. n PER SERVING 260 kcals, protein 12g, carbs 28g, fat 12g, sat fat 3g, fibre 8g, sugar 14g, salt 1.49g

n Cook the pasta according to pack instructions. Meanwhile, heat the oil in a large frying pan and fry the onion over a medium heat for 5 minutes until soft. Add the garlic and cook for another minute.

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DECEMBER 2012

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eat in modern veggie

eat in modern veggie

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You could even cook the rice over an open flame instead of the oven.

Nice ’n’ spicy savoury rice Serves 4 n 45 minutes n EASY

sweet corn 50g almonds 50g, flaked (optional) vegetable stock 375ml

basmati rice 200g sunflower oil 1 tbsp onion 1 large, chopped garlic cloves 2, sliced fresh root ginger 1 thumb-sized piece, peeled and chopped cloves 2 cinnamon 1 cardamom pods 2, cracked curry powder 1 1/2 tsp peas 50g

n Heat the oven to 180°C. Rinse and soak the basmati rice for 10 minutes. n Heat a large, flame proof casserole. Add the oil, then the onion, garlic and ginger. Cook on a low heat until the onion is soft. n Add the cloves, cinnamon and cardamom pods and cook for a further 2 minutes on a low heat. Add the curry powder and cook for a further 2 minutes, then stir.

84 BBC GoodFood

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n Drain the rice and add it to the casserole. Stir so that the rice is coated in the oil and spices. Add the peas, sweet corn and half the flaked almonds, if using. Pour over the stock and stir. n Cover the casserole with a lid or with a sheet of foil, then cook in the oven for 15-20 minutes. Remove from the oven, scatter with the remaining almonds, if using, and serve. n PER SERVING 247 kcals, protein 6g, carbs 49g, fat 4g, sat fat 1g, fibre 2g, sugar 4g, salt 1.09g

DECEMBER 2012

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Come over for patio

There’s more to Parsi food than dhansak. Discover a world of delightful home-style dishes like aleti paleti and prawn patio

Recipes KAINAZ CONTRACTOR Photographs BHARAT BHIRANGI

MENU FOR 8 T Aleti paleti T Keema pattice T Kanda papeta par edu T Dhan dar patio T Jardaloo ma murghi T Lagan nu custard

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garam masala a pinch turmeric powder a pinch salt 1 tsp coriander 1 small bunch n Heat oil in a pan and fry the onions till light brown. Add green chillies and ginger-garlic paste and fry for a minute. Add the kidneys, lower the flame, cover the pan with a lid and cook for 3-5 minutes until soft. Now add the spleen and cook for another 3 minutes. Lastly add the liver, spices, salt and coriander, then cook for 2-3 minutes. Season to taste. Serve immediately with chapatis. n PER SERVING 164.13 kcals, protein 14.9g, carbs 4.28g, fat 9.48g, sat fat 1.01g, fibre 0.89g, salt none

Keema pattice Serves 8 n 45 minutes n A LITTLE EFFORT A childhood favourite. Although this dish is popular with the Muslim community too, the Parsi version has nuts and raisins, which gives it a distinct taste. You can make a meal out of this filling keema pattice with a mashed potato casing, which is dipped in egg and fried. I recommend making this pattice over the weekend.

“There is a treasure trove of Parsi dishes that are relatively unknown but cooked at Parsi homes nearly everyday. From egg-topped vegetables and crispy sali that lends body to the sweet and sour sali ma murghi to mixed offal dishes and our favourite rose-scented dessert — this is the taste of my childhood. In all, this is a meat-heavy, vegetablemasking and cholesterol-inducing cuisine. But it’s so worth it!” — Kainaz Contractor 86 BBC GoodFood

Aleti paleti Serves 8 n 30 minutes n EASY In the blissful, carefree days before the threat of cholesterol and its ill effects became common knowledge, this hearty offal dish was consumed at breakfast along with a couple of eggs and thickly buttered toasts. It is one of the tastiest and quickest ways to use up offal. oil 4 tbsp onions 2 large, finely chopped green chillies 3, chopped ginger-garlic paste 1 tbsp goat’s kidney 12, skinned and cubed goat’s spleen 2, cubed goat’s liver 1, skinned and cubed

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potatoes 1kg, boiled oil 250ml + more for shallow frying onions 350g, very finely chopped garlic paste 2 tsp ginger paste 1/2 tsp red chilli powder 1 tsp turmeric 1/4 tsp cumin powder 1/2 tsp tomatoes 4, finely chopped salt 1 tsp + more to taste mutton keema 250g water 1/2 cup raisins 30 charoli nuts 1 tbsp sugar 2 tsp sugarcane vinegar 3/4 tbsp (try Kolah’s available at speciality Parsi stores) chilli powder a pinch semolina to coat eggs 3, separated DECEMBER 2012

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eat in weekend

VEG IT with soya granules instead of the keema.

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n Fry the onions in oil until light brown, add the ginger and garlic pastes and cook further till dark brown but not burnt. Switch off the flame and add all the spices. Add tomatoes, switch on the stove and cook for 5-7 minutes on medium heat. Add salt, keema and a little water. n Cook on low flame till all the water is absorbed and the keema is cooked and dry. This should take about 20 minutes. Add raisins, charoli nuts, sugar and vinegar. When it totally dries out, transfer into a colander to drain off the oil. Reserve the oil for later use. n While the keema cooks, peel and mash the potatoes while still hot. Once the keema cooks and the oil is drained, add salt to taste and 3 tbsp of the leftover oil from the keema. Mix the potatoes well and divide into 8-10 round portions, they should be slightly more than the size of a golf ball. n Divide the keema mixture also into the same number of portions. Take one potato ball and flatten it in the palm of your hand, and shape it into a cup. Put one portion of the keema mix in the potato cup and seal the open ends to form a ball. Flatten it slightly to shape into a patty. n Roll the patty rounds in semolina and keep aside. In a shallow pan, heat up some oil on a low flame. Whilst the oil is heating, beat the egg whites till they form soft peaks. Add the yolks and mix gently. Now carefully take one patty at a time, dust off excess semolina, coat with egg mix on both sides and shallow fry the patty in hot oil till golden. Flip it and fry the other side likewise. Serve with chapati or pav. n PER SERVING 530.75 kcals, protein 13.25g, carbs 30.60g, fat 39.94g, sat fat 5g, fibre 4.40g, salt none

Dhan dar patio Serves 8 n 50 minutes n MODERATELY EASY One of my absolute favourite dishes, this combo of white rice, yellow dal and prawns in a sweet and sour curry is the ultimate comfort food. Primarily cooked on festive occasions for lunch, 88 BBC GoodFood

the tart flavours of the patio go surprisingly well with the dal, which has been minimally tempered with fried onions and garlic. basmati rice 2 1/2 cups water 4 cups salt 1 tsp + more to taste arhar (toor) dal 2 cups, soaked for an hour turmeric powder 1/2 tsp ghee 4 tbsp fresh ginger-garlic paste 2 tsp onion 1, cut finely lengthwise and fried to a crisp THE PRAWN PATIO oil 4 tbsp onions 4 medium, very finely chopped garlic paste 1 tbsp coconut 1/3, ground finely tomatoes 6 medium, finely chopped jeera powder 1 heaped tsp turmeric powder a large pinch chilli powder 1 tsp, add more to taste Parsi sambhar masala 1 tsp (available at speciality Parsi stores) water 1 cup sugarcane vinegar 2 tbsp (try Kolah’s available at speciality Parsi stores) sugar 1 tbsp, add more to taste coriander leaves a bunch, chopped

n Clean and wash the rice thoroughly. If possible, soak the rice for a couple of hours before boiling. In a heavybottomed pan, add the water to the rice and 1/4 tsp salt. Cook on a high flame till the rice is done. Then drain it in a colander and and pour cool water over it. This will make sure that all the excess starch in the rice is drained out and each grain is separate and fluffy. Keep aside. n While the rice boils, place the dal in a pressure cooker and cook for 15 minutes with adequate water. When cooled, blend into a purée, add the remaining salt and turmeric powder and keep aside. In another small vessel, sauté the ginger-garlic paste in ghee. Add most of the fried onions and the puréed dal. Add just enough water to get the consistency you prefer. Let it boil for a few minutes before taking

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it off the gas. Sprinkle the remaining crisp fried onions before serving. n To make the prawn patio, heat oil in a pan and fry onions till light brown. Then add the garlic paste and fry for 2 minutes before adding the coconut paste. Fry for a few minutes. Sprinkle water and stir constantly, so that the paste browns but does not burn. Add the tomatoes, salt, and other spices. n Lower the flame and cook till the oil floats on top. Add the prawns and cook for a minute. In a cup, mix the sugar and vinegar and stir into the patio. Taste the patio, it should be sweet and sour. Adjust the seasoning as per your taste. Cook for 5 more minutes until the prawns are cooked and garnish with chopped coriander leaves. Serve the rice, dal and patio together. n PER SERVING 391.63 kcals, protein 13.80g, carbs 38.40g, fat 32.24g, sat fat 3.81g, fibre 8.48g, salt 0.1g

TASTE TEAM COMMENT Parsi cuisine has always fascinated me but I had never dared to attempt any Parsi recipe until I tried this one. I substituted the sugarcane vinegar with jaggery and lemon juice. I made my own Parsi sambhar powder by dry roasting 1 tbsp fenugreek seeds, 1/4 tbsp mustard seeds and 1/4 tbsp black peppercorns for one minute on a low flame and grinding them to a smooth powder in a coffee grinder. I also let the prawns marinade in salt and red chilli powder for 30 minutes. This recipe is a delectable combination of sweet and sour flavours and it tastes delicious with the simple rice and aromatic dal. Lubna Karim is a food blogger who lives in Bengaluru. She blogs at kitchenflavours.blogspot.com.

DECEMBER 2012

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WorldMags.net Jardaloo ma murghi Serves 8 n 45 minutes n MODERATELY EASY Sali murghi with a twist. This is a more decadent version of the chicken gravy that is served with fried potato straws or sali. The jardaloos (dried apricots) give the dish a Persian touch and are a nice sweet addition to the otherwise mildly-spiced dish.

VEG IT by not topping with eggs.

Kanda papeta par eedu Serves 8 n 30 minutes n EASY Parsis have a real aversion to vegetables. All our veggies, be it okra, spinach or tomato, are either cooked with mutton, kebabs or eggs. This nofuss potato dish comes topped with a steamed egg. It heads my list for when I have nothing in my kitchen except eggs, potatoes and onions. oil 3 tbsp onions 2, sliced lengthwise ginger-garlic paste 1 1/2 tsp potatoes 4, cut into wedges and then sliced thinly into cubes green chillies 5, chopped salt to taste turmeric powder 1/2 tsp eggs 8 coriander 4 tbsp, chopped fried onions 2 tbsp 90 BBC GoodFood

n In a large flat-bottomed pan, heat oil and fry onions till light brown. Add ginger-garlic paste and fry for 1 minute. Add sliced potatoes, green chillies, salt and turmeric powder. Cover with a lid and cook on very low flame for about 15 minutes stirring occasionally. To prevent it from burning at the bottom, sprinkle a little water and put the pan on a thick tawa/ griddle. n Once cooked, stir in the fresh coriander and flatten the potatoes. Make slight depressions a few inches away from each other and break an egg into each. Cover with the lid and cook on a low flame for another 5-7 minutes or till the eggs are steamed. n PER SERVING 150.88 kcals, protein 8.33g, carbs 18.24g, fat 5.1g, sat fat 1.6g, fibre 2.56g, salt 0.1g

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oil 1/2 cup onions 4, finely chopped ginger-garlic paste 2 tsp chicken 1.5kg, cut into pieces tomato purée 300ml salt to taste turmeric powder 1/2 tsp chilli powder 1 1/2 tsp garam masala 3/4 tsp water 2 1/2 cups sugarcane vinegar 3 tbsp (try Kolah’s available at speciality Parsi stores) sugar 1 tsp jardaloo (dried apricots) 16, soaked for 2 hours in warm water and then lightly browned in ghee sali (potato straws) 150g, to serve chapatis 16, to serve n In a broad pan big enough to hold the chicken pieces, heat oil and fry the onions till light brown. Add the gingergarlic paste and fry for a minute. Add the chicken and fry for a further 5-7 minutes. Stir in the tomato purée, salt, turmeric and masalas. n Add 2 cups water and cook on medium flame for 20 minutes. Once the chicken is cooked, check the consistency of the gravy. It should be neither too watery nor too dry. Add vinegar, sugar and jardaloos. Cook for 3 more minutes. Garnish with the sali and serve with chapatis. n PER SERVING 417.13 kcals, protein 41.48g, carbs 18.8g, fat 18.86g, sat fat 0.8g, fibre 3.93g, salt 0.1g

DECEMBER 2012

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REMEMBER THIS T Though most of the masalas used

Lagan nu Custard Serves 8 n 15 minutes + baking and boiling n EASY As the name suggests, this rich, nutty, creamy baked custard is served at weddings and navjotes as the grand finalé of the feast. Those with an aversion to eggs should stay away from this dessert. The rose essence imparts a lovely aroma. milk 1l sugar 150g eggs 6 cream 400 ml rose water 1/2 cup raisins 50g charoli nuts or almonds 50g cardamom and nutmeg powder 1/2 tsp butter to grease 92 BBC GoodFood

n Boil the milk with sugar until it becomes 1/3 its original quantity. This takes about 20-30 minutes. Cool and keep aside. Pre-heat the oven to 180°C. Whisk the eggs briskly and add all the other ingredients (except the raisins) to the reduced milk. Now stir this into the eggs and transfer to a greased baking pan. The charoli must float to the surface. Now scatter the raisins evenly in the pan. Bake in the oven for approximately 50 minutes or until browned from the top and cooked. To check doneness, insert a knife or skewer into the custard, if it comes out clean, it is cooked. Leave to cool and then refrigerate for a couple of hours before serving. The custard should be properly set. Cut into cubes and serve chilled. n PER SERVING 341.38 kcals, protein 9.45g, carbs 34.54g, fat 17.80g, sat fat 9.21g, fibre 0.66g, salt 0.1g

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here are commonly available, the sambhar Parsi masala is a spice mix which is available at certain speciality stores. I always use the Auntie’s brand of hand-made masalas, which can be found at Belgaum Ghee Depot in Mumbai and Pune Zoroastrian Seva Mandal in Pune. If you just can’t find any, substitute with chilli powder. T Frying onions to a golden brown colour can take upto 15 minutes. In order to save time, deep fry a batch of thinly-sliced onions and keep handy. So instead of using fresh onions, you could simply use the same quantity of fried onions. But make sure the amount is the same after they have been crushed. Ensure that you cook them on a low flame or the onions will burn and taste bitter. T Sali or crispy potato straws are easily available in Mumbai at Camy and OK Wafer shops. But if unavailable, salted aloo lachha is the closest alternative.

DECEMBER 2012

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Recipe MARY CADOGAN Photograph LIS PARSONS

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Mulled wine cocktail Recipe on p 96

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Bring on Christmas!

Recipe MARY CADOGAN Photograph LIS PARSONS

Take the stress out of menu planning with this classic celebration feast. It’s Christmas unplugged!

Chocolate pudding with spiced berry syrup Recipe on p 98

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Recipe JANINE RATCLIFFE and LULU GRIMES Photograph GARETH MORGANS Styling LISA HARRISON Food styling SONIJA EDRIDGE

bay leaves, thyme, coriander seeds and sugar. Add enough vegetable stock to come halfway up the carrots. Bring to a simmer, put on a lid and cook until the carrots are almost tender, about 10-12 minutes. Take off the lid, then simmer, turning the vegetables until the liquid has evaporated and the carrots are glazed. n PER SERVING 117 kcals, protein 0.9g, carbs 12.4g, fat 7.4g, sat fat 4.4g, fibre 3g, salt 0.65g

Roast chicken with bacon stuffing Serves 8 n 1 hour 30 minutes + resting n A LITTLE EFFORT

Mulled wine cocktail Serves 8 n 15 minutes + chilling n EASY If you’d like to serve a traditional warm mulled wine, there’s no need to chill ‑ simply warm through without boiling and serve in heatproof glasses. light muscovado sugar 100g (try Tate & Lyle available at gourmet stores) star anise 1 cinnamon 1 stick cloves 4 water 150ml lemon 1, thinly sliced oranges 2, thinly sliced Cointreau 150ml light red wine 750ml orange zest to garnish n Put light muscovado sugar in a pan with star anise, cinnamon, cloves and water. Bring slowly to the boil, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Simmer for 2 minutes, then pour into a large jug 96 BBC GoodFood

breadcrumbs 125g onion 1, chopped garlic cloves 2, chopped bacon 125g, diced salt and pepper to taste chickens 2 medium, with skin on (approx 1.8kg each) butter 50g plain flour 2 tbsp chicken stock 300ml white wine 1 glass and leave to cool. Add the lemon and oranges to the jug along with Cointreau and light red wine. Stir well, then cover and chill for at least 2 hours. n Serve chilled or over ice, with a twist of orange zest and a star anise. n PER SERVING 236 kcals, protein none, carbs 25g, fat none, sat fat none, fibre none, sugar 25g, salt 0.04g

Buttered bay and thyme carrots Serves 8 n 30 minutes n EASY baby carrots 1kg, halved butter 65g bay leaves 3 thyme sprigs 3 coriander seeds 7 golden caster or demerara sugar 4 tsp (try Tate & Lyle available at gourmet stores) vegetable stock 500ml n Put the carrots in a large, wide, shallow pan with a lid with the butter,

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n Heat the oven to 200°C. Make the stuffing for the chickens by whizzing the breadcrumbs, onion and garlic in a food processor. Stir in the bacon and season. n Stuff the neck end of the chickens with the stuffing, smooth the skin back over and secure with a cocktail stick. Put both chickens in a large roasting tin and smear them with butter. Season, then put in the oven for an hour or until cooked through and the skin is golden and crisp. n Check the chickens are cooked through, then transfer to a board to rest and cover with foil. To make the gravy, sit the roasting tin over a medium flame on the hob and stir in 2 tbsp plain flour and cook for 1 minute. Stir in the white wine and the chicken stock. Bring to a simmer and bubble for 5 minutes. n PER SERVING 481 kcals, protein 53.23g, carbs 15.98g, fat 19.41g, sat fat 4.93g, fibre 0.68g, salt 0.3g DECEMBER 2012

Recipe JENNY WHITE Photographs YUKI SUGIURA Styling RACHEL JUKES Food styling JENNY WHITE

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GOOD FOOD STAR RECIPE

Recipe JANINE RATCLIFFE Photograph MYLES NEW Styling PAULA STAIN and HAYLEY WARD Food styling ALICE HART

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Perfect potato roasties Serves 8 n 1 hour 20 minutes n EASY potatoes 2 kg, peeled and cut butter 6 tbsp, melted rosemary needles from 2 sprigs sea salt to season (try Roland available at gourmet stores) n Heat the oven to 200°C. Drop the potatoes into a pan of boiling water and cook for 5 minutes, then drain really well in a colander. Shake the potatoes around in the colander to rough up the edges a bit. Transfer to a roasting tin and toss with the melted butter. Put back in the oven for about 50 minutes or until crisp and golden. Turn them halfway through and add the rosemary if using. Drain on kitchen paper and sprinkle with salt before serving. n PER SERVING 277 kcals, protein 5.2g, carbs 42.9g, fat 10.5g, sat fat 3.4g, fibre 3.2g, salt 0.42g 98 BBC GoodFood

Chocolate pudding with spiced berry syrup Serves 8 n 40 minutes + cooking n A LITTLE EFFORT To make a Christmas cake (as shown on p 42), use the same recipe but instead of steaming the pudding, you could bake it in a regular cake mould and decorate it. butter 85g + extra for greasing, softened dark muscovado sugar 85g (try Tate & Lyle available at gourmet stores) eggs 2 large, beaten vanilla extract 1 tsp dark chocolate 100g, melted (try Valhrona available at gourmet stores) cocoa powder 25g plain flour 140g baking powder 1 tsp almonds 100g, ground milk 100ml chocolate chips 60g

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THE SPICED BERRY SYRUP orange 1, juiced raspberry jam 200g, seedless star anise 3 sour cherries 25g, dried (try Ocean Spray available at gourmet stores) cranberries 25g, dried (try Ocean Spray available at gourmet stores) maraschino cherries 50g, drained (try Epicure available at gourmet stores) cherries in syrup 200g can, pitted and drained (try Epicure available at gourmet stores) n Butter a pudding basin, then line the base with a circle of greaseproof paper. To prepare the steamer, place an upturned saucer into a large saucepan to act as a trivet. n Beat the butter and sugar until light and creamy. Slowly add the eggs, mixing well between each addition. Add the vanilla and melted chocolate and mix well. Sieve the cocoa, flour and baking powder into the mixture, then fold in the ground almonds, milk and chocolate chips. n Fill the basin with the mixture. Cut out circles of greaseproof paper and foil, big enough to fit over the basin with a 5cm overhang. Lightly butter the greaseproof paper and lay this on top of the foil, buttered side up. Make a pleat down the centre of the two, then place the paper side down, over the pudding. Turn the foil under to cover the paper. Secure with string, lower into the steamer and add boiling water to come halfway up the basin, without touching the paper. Cover with a lid and simmer gently for 1 hour 15 minutes. n Meanwhile, bubble the orange juice, jam, star anise and dried fruit together until syrupy. Stir in the maraschino and canned cherries. Carefully turn the pudding out on to a serving plate. Pile some fruit from the sauce on top plus the star anise to decorate, then spoon over some warm syrup. Pour the remaining syrup into a jug and serve. n PER SERVING 515 kcals, protein 8g, carbs 67g, fat 26g, sat fat 11g, fibre 3g, sugar 51g, salt 0.42g

DECEMBER 2012

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Green beans with shallots, garlic and toasted almonds

Serves 8 n 15 minutes n EASY

Recipe JOHN TORODE Photograph MAJA SMEND Styling TONY HUTCHINSON Food styling LIZZIE HARRIS

French beans 600g olive oil 4 tbsp shallots 4, finely sliced garlic cloves 6, thinly sliced salt to taste REALLY pepper 2 tsp, ground REALLY QUICK lemon juice 4 tsp almonds 4 tbsp, flaked and toasted

n Cook the French beans in boiling, salted water until tender, then drain and cool under running water. Set aside. Put olive oil, shallots, garlic cloves and some salt in a frying pan, then cook gently for about 8 minutes until soft but not brown. n Tip in the beans, salt and pepper, toss well, then warm through. Finish with a squeeze of lemon juice and almonds. n PER SERVING 47 kcals, protein 3g, carbs 3g, fat 3g, sat fat none, fibre 2g, sugar 2g, salt none

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Menu masters Whether you want stress-free party food to feed a crowd or are on a budget, one of these clever menus will fit the bill

Recipes JANINE RATCLIFFE Photographs GARETH MORGANS

Recipe on p 108

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FEED A CROWD Pizza pockets

Serves 12 n 55 minutes n EASY olive oil 2 tbsp onions 2 large, halved and sliced garlic cloves 2, crushed dried oregano 1 tsp chilli flakes 1/2 tsp ciabatta bread 4 loaves, sliced in half keeping the edges uncut salami 140g prosciutto 150g roasted red peppers 1 jar, drained and sliced (try Jamie Oliver available at gourmet stores) mozzarella 4 balls, thinly sliced black olives 20, halved eggs 2, beaten Parmesan cheese 50g, grated n Heat the oven to 200°C. Heat oil in a large pan. Cook onions and garlic until golden. Add the oregano and chilli. Leave aside. n Oil a shallow baking tray. Place the bread and layer up all the ingredients in the middle, making sure the mozzarella is evenly spaced and seasoning in between. Mix the eggs and Parmesan, season then pour over the ingredients. Close the sandwich properly. n Bake for 50 minutes, covering with parchment if it gets too brown. Cool to room temperature before cutting into squares. n PER SERVING 483 kcals, protein 27.3g, carbs 47.5g, fat 21.8g, sat fat 9.9g, fibre 4.1g, salt 3.13g

Winter greens with pine nuts, chilli and garlic

till tender. Drain well and toss with the mix. n PER SERVING 77 kcals, protein 3g, carbs 1.3g, fat 6.7g, sat fat 0.7g, fibre 2.2g, salt 0.07g

Cannellini bean and roasted pumpkin salad with basil dressing Serves 12 n 50 minutes n EASY pumpkin 1kg, peeled and diced olive oil 6 tbsp cherry tomatoes 500g, halved shallots 2, roughly chopped Dijon mustard 1 tbsp (try Roland available at gourmet stores) red wine vinegar 4 tbsp (try Cirio available at gourmet stores) basil a large bunch cannellini beans 400g (try Epicure available at gourmet stores) n Heat the oven to 200°C. Put the pumpkin on a baking tray, toss with 2 tbsp oil and season. Roast for 20 minutes, then add the tomatoes, turn up to 220°C and roast for 15 minutes. Cool. n Blend the shallots, mustard, vinegar and basil in a processor. Add 4 tbsp oil and 3 tbsp water, then whizz to a dressing. Put the beans on a platter. Add the pumpkin and tomatoes, then drizzle the basil dressing. Toss. n PER SERVING 180 kcals, protein 8g, carbs 23.4g, fat 6.7g, sat fat 0.8g, fibre 6.2g, salt 0.55g

Olive oil potato roasties with rosemary Serves 12 n 1 hour n EASY

Serves 12 n 20 minutes n EASY olive oil 3 tbsp + extra red chilli 2, sliced garlic cloves 3, finely sliced pine nuts 50g lemon 1, juiced spinach, asparagus and pok choy 800g, roughly chopped n Heat the oil in a large pan. Add the chilli, garlic and pine nuts and cook gently until the nuts have a little colour. Add lemon juice. n Bring a pan of salted water to the boil. Add the vegetables and cook for 3-4 minutes or

potatoes 2 1/2kg, cut into small chunks olive oil 4 tbsp rosemary a few sprigs sea salt to season (try Roland available at gourmet stores) n Heat the oven to 200°C. Par boil the potatoes for 5 minutes, then drain. Toss with oil and spread on a baking tray. Season, then cook for 20 minutes. Sprinkle the rosemary, toss then keep cooking for 20-30 minutes until crisp and golden. Sprinkle with sea salt. n PER SERVING 189 kcals, protein 4.2g, carbs 36.1g, fat 4.1g, sat fat 0.5g, fibre 2.7g, salt 0.45g

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BUDGET

Moroccan lamb stew Serves 8 n 1 hour 30 minutes + marinating n EASY boneless lamb 750g, cut into pieces onion 1, grated red chilli 1, finely chopped cumin 1 tsp, ground whole cloves 2, ground coriander leaves a bunch, half chopped, half whole egg 1 olive oil 2 tbsp harissa paste 2 tbsp (try Al Fez available at gourmet stores) tomatoes 400g, chopped chicken stock 650ml cinnamon stick 1 n Mix the lamb, onion, chilli, spices and the chopped coriander leaves. Leave to marinate for an hour. Fry the lamb in oil in a large frying pan until browned all over. Add the harissa and cook for a minute. Add the tomatoes, chicken stock and cinnamon then simmer for 45 minutes, until cooked. Stir through the rest of the coriander to finish. n PER SERVING 394 kcals, protein 26.8g, carbs 5.8g, fat 29.5g, sat fat 12g, fibre 1.8g, salt 2.1g

Fragrant basmati and almond pulao Serves 8 n 50 minutes n EASY

coated. Pour in the stock. n Turn the heat down to a simmer then cover and cook for 10-15 minutes, or until all the stock has been absorbed and the rice is tender. Meanwhile, heat a 2cm layer of oil in a pan and deep fry the remaining onions until crisp. Scatter the almonds and crisp onions over. n PER SERVING 384 kcals, protein 6.9g, carbs 57.5g, fat 15.6g, sat fat 5.6g, fibre 2.5g, salt 1.32g

Carrot salad with chickpeas and lemon Serves 8 n 15 minutes n EASY lemons 2, juiced harissa 2 tsp (try Al Fez available at gourmet stores) REALLY olive oil 4 tbsp REALLY EASY chickpeas 500g, boiled carrots 400g, peeled and shredded spring onions a bunch, shredded flat-leaf parsley leaves a large bunch feta 200g, crumbled (try Lemnos available at gourmet stores) n Whisk the lemon juice and harissa with olive oil. Put the chickpeas, carrots and parsley in a bowl. Pour over the dressing and toss. Crumble over the feta and serve. n PER SERVING 201 kcals, protein 8.8g, carbs 15.5g, fat 12g, sat fat 4g, fibre 4.5g, salt 1.07g

Spiced warm flatbreads Serves 8 n 10 minutes n EASY

butter 75g onions 3 large, halved and sliced garlic cloves 4, sliced cinnamon sticks 2 cloves 6 turmeric 1 tsp basmati rice 500g vegetable stock 900ml oil 100ml almonds 4 tbsp, flaked and toasted n Melt the butter in a large, wide pan and cook half the onions and all the garlic until soft and golden. Add the spices and cook for a couple of minutes. Add the basmati and stir until

pita breads 8 olive oil 4 tbsp za’atar 2 tsp (try Al Fez available at gourmet stores) yoghurt to serve n Put the flatbreads on two large baking sheets and brush with olive oil. Sprinkle over the za’atar then bake for 5-7 minutes in a 180°C oven until warmed through. Serve with a bowl of yoghurt. n PER SERVING 160 kcals, protein 3.4g, carbs 20.2g, fat 7.8g, sat fat 1.1g, fibre 0.8g, salt 1.12g

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WorldMags.net Crab crostini

PARTY Little prawn poppadoms Makes 20 n 20 minutes n EASY pickled lime 2 tbsp, finely chopped REALLY REALLY mango chutney 1 tbsp EASY cucumber 3cm piece, seeded and diced hung curd 2 tbsp fresh prawns 200g, cooked and peeled mini poppadoms 20, fried or roasted cumin seeds 1 tsp, toasted n Mix the pickle, chutney, cucumber, and curd. Season, then divide between the poppadoms. Top with a prawn and sprinkle over the cumin seeds to serve. n PER SERVING 28 kcals, protein 2.9g, carbs 1.8g, fat 1.1g, sat fat 0.2g, fibre 0.1g, salt 0.28g

Fig and goat’s cheese puffs Makes 16 n 20 minutes n EASY filo pastry 1 packet (try Jus Rol REALLY available at gourmet stores) REALLY QUICK butter 25g, melted herbed goat’s cheese 100g (try Lemnos available at gourmet stores) figs 4 small, quartered n Heat the oven to 200°C. Cut small bitesized circles out of the pastry. Take the filo pieces and lay over each other, brushing with butter as you go along. Push into a buttered muffin mould to make a pastry cup. Repeat until the moulds are filled. Add a blob of goat’s cheese and push on a piece of fig. Bake for 10 minutes or until crisp and golden. Serve. n PER SERVING 71 kcals, protein 2.1g, carbs 4.8g, fat 5g, sat fat 2.2g, fibre 0.4g, salt 0.21g

white crabmeat 100g (try Bumblebee available at gourmet stores) lemon juice 2 tbsp shallot 1, finely chopped parsley a handful, chopped red chilli 1, finely chopped capers 1 tbsp, small mayonnaise 3 tbsp baguette 1, cut into 15 slices and toasted n Mix the crab (squeeze out the liquid) with the lemon juice, shallot, parsley, chilli, capers and mayonnaise. Pile the crab onto the baguette slices and serve. n PER SERVING 42 kcals, protein 1.9g, carbs 3g, fat 2.6g, sat fat 0.5g, fibre 0.2g, salt 0.27g

Mini pancetta filo pies Makes 9 n 40 minutes n EASY pancetta or bacon 70g, diced spring onions 4, finely chopped eggs 4, beaten Parmesan 25g, finely grated butter 25g, melted filo pastry 3 sheets, cut into 8cm squares n Heat the oven to 190°C. Cook the pancetta in a non-stick pan until it gives up its fat. Add the onions and cook until softened. Cool, then put in a bowl with the eggs and cheese. Season and mix well. n Brush 2 x 12 hole mini-muffin tins with butter. Take the filo pieces and lay over each other, overlapping to make a star. Brush with butter then push into a hole to make a pastry cup. Pour in the egg mix and cook for 15-20 minutes until set. n PER SERVING 46 kcals, protein 2.6g, carbs 2g, fat 3.2g, sat fat 0.4g, fibre 0.1g, salt 0.25g

Spicy spinach cakes with mint yoghurt Makes 20 n 45 minutes n EASY chickpeas 400g, boiled spinach 80g, chopped onion 1, roughly chopped

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garlic clove 1, chopped coriander a handful + extra to garnish cumin and coriander powder 1 tsp each chilli powder 1/2 tsp plain flour 3 tbsp salt a pinch sunflower oil 2 tbsp yoghurt 4 tbsp mint chutney 1 tsp n Tip the chickpeas and spinach into a processor. Blend until smooth. In 1 tbsp oil, toss the onion, garlic, coriander, spices, flour and a big pinch of salt with the chickpea puree. Shape into 20 cakes. n Heat oil in a non-stick frying pan, and fry the cakes for 3 minutes on each side until lightly golden. Mix the yoghurt and mint sauce and serve. n PER SERVING 33 kcals, protein 1.3g, carbs 3.8g, fat 1.5g, sat fat 0.2g, fibre 0.7g, salt 0.09g

Chicken and melon rice paper rolls Makes 10 n 30 minutes n EASY rice paper wrappers 12 (try Blue Dragon available at gourmet stores) smoked chicken breast 100g, sliced lengthways (available at your local deli or cold storage) musk melon 1, peeled, sliced mint 1 bunch coriander 1 bunch red onion 1/2, finely sliced plum sauce for dipping (try Lee Kum Kee available at gourmet stores) n Pour hot water into a bowl then drop in 1 rice paper and leave for about 30 seconds until softened. Remove and drain off the excess water with a kitchen towel. Put a small pile of chicken, melon, herbs and onion in the middle of the circle. Bring up the lower part of the wrapper over the vegetables and then fold one side in. Roll up into a tight spring roll and serve with the plum sauce. n PER SERVING 49 kcals, protein 2.6g, carbs 6.1g, fat 1.7g, sat fat 0.4g, fibre 0.9g, salt 0.27g

Styling JENNY IGGLEDEN Food styling SAL HENLY

Makes 15 n 20 minutes n EASY

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Strawberries dreams

These eye-popping strawberry desserts ooze wow factor. They’re almost too pretty to eat!

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Strawberry and mascarpone cheesecake tart Serves 8 n 50 minutes + cooling and chilling n EASY mascarpone 250g (try Zenetti available at gourmet stores) hung curd 150g double cream 150ml (available at your local dairy) icing sugar 3 tbsp (try Bluebird available at gourmet stores) vanilla extract 2 tsp strawberries 750g, small, cored and halved THE SHORTCRUST PASTRY plain flour 225g butter 100g, chilled and cut into cubes salt a pinch 110 BBC GoodFood

n To make the pastry, sift the flour into a large bowl, add the butter and rub in with your fingertips until the mixture resembles fine breadcrumbs. Stir in the salt, then add 2-3 tbsp water and mix to a firm dough. Knead the dough briefly and gently on a floured surface. Wrap in cling-film and chill while preparing the filling. n Heat the oven to 190°C. Roll out the pastry to coin-size thickness and use it to line a straight-sided, loose-bottomed 20-cm sponge tin. Leave the excess pastry over hanging to avoid shrinkage. Fill with baking paper and baking beans and bake for 15 minutes. Take out the paper and beans and keep baking for another 15 minutes until the pastry is cooked through and golden. Trim the excess pastry then leave in the tin to cool completely.

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n Beat the mascarpone until smooth then add the hung curd, cream, 1 tbsp icing sugar and vanilla and beat together until really thick. Spoon into the cool pastry case and level. Cover with strawberries and put in the fridge to chill for 2 hours. n Put the remaining strawberries in a food processor with the rest of the icing sugar. Whizz to a purée and sieve to remove seeds. Serve the tart with the strawberry purée spooned over just before serving. n PER SERVING 523 kcals, protein 6.7g, carbs 35g, fat 39g, sat fat 21g, fibre 2.6g, salt 0.6g

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Recipe JANINE RATCLIFFE Photograph GARETH MORGANS Styling JENNY IGGLEDEN Food styling SAL HENLEY

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Fromage frais mousse with strawberry sauce Serves 6 n 25 minutes + chilling n MODERATELY EASY

egg white 1 icing sugar 50g + 2 tbsp (try Bluebird available at gourmet stores) lemon 1, zested and juiced strawberries 500g

Recipe MARY CADOGEN Photograph MAJA SMEND Styling JENNY IGGLEDEN Food styling LUCY McKELVIE

THE FROMAGE FRAIS ricotta cheese 350g (try Impero available at gourmet stores) sour cream 150g (try Impero available at gourmet stores) n Mix the ricotta and sour cream together to prepare fromage frais. Keep aside. n Put the egg white into a heatproof bowl with the icing sugar. Set the bowl over a large pan of simmering water and, using an electric whisk, whisk for 5 minutes until the mixture is light, fluffy and holds peaks when the blades are lifted. Remove from heat, whisk in the lemon zest, then whisk for a further 2 minutes to cool it down. n Fold in the fromage frais, then transfer to six glasses or small bowls and chill. Roughly chop half the strawberries and put in the food processor with 2 tbsp icing sugar and the lemon juice. Whizz to a purée, then press through a sieve to remove the seeds. Chop the remaining strawberries. n Spoon the chopped strawberries over the mousses, then spoon a little purée over each. Chill until ready to serve. n PER SERVING 118 kcals, protein 8g, carbs 23g, fat none, sat fat none, fibre 1g, sugar 23g, salt 0.13g

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cheesecake

Makes 12 slices n 1 hour 10 minutes + chilling n A LITTLE EFFORT gelatine 7 sheets strawberries 500g + a few extra small ones, halved milk 100ml ricotta cheese 250g (try Impero available at gourmet stores) caster sugar 140g (try Tate & Lyle available at gourmet stores) double cream 300ml (available at your local dairy) pink and white marshmallows 400g, snipped into quarters (try Fiddes Payne available at gourmet stores) icing sugar for dusting (try Bluebird available at gourmet stores) THE SHORTBREAD BASE cold butter 175g, chopped plain flour 200g caster sugar 85g (try Tate & Lyle available at gourmet stores) sunflower oil a few drops

Strawberry and Pimm’s jelly Serves 4 n 15 minutes + straining overnight and chilling n EASY strawberries 750g + extra to serve caster sugar 50g + extra to taste (optional) (try Tate & Lyle available at gourmet stores) Pimm’s 250-300ml leaf gelatine 4 sheets lemon juice (optional) whipped cream and shortbread to serve n Wash, drain and hull the strawberries. Tip into a food processor or blender with the caster sugar and blitz to crush. n Line a colander with a sheet of clean muslin. Place the colander over a large bowl. Tip the strawberry mixture into the colander and allow the juices to drip through overnight (not in the fridge). n In the morning, measure the strained 112 BBC GoodFood

juice — you should have 300-400ml depending on the berries. Add enough Pimm’s to make up to 600ml. n Place the gelatine leaves in a bowl and cover with cold water. Leave for 10 minutes to soften, then lift out of the water, squeezing out the excess. In a small pan, heat 200ml of the strawberry and Pimm’s liquid until it is hot to touch, then remove from the heat. Add the gelatine to the hot liquid and stir to dissolve. Pour back into the remaining cool liquid, taste and add sugar or lemon juice to balance the flavour. n Divide the mixture between 4 glasses and place in the fridge for at least 4 hours to set. Top with halved strawberries and whipped cream, and serve with shortbread. n PER SERVING 269 kcals, protein 3g, carbs 42g, fat none, sat fat none, fibre 3g, sugar 42g, salt 0.1g

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n First, make the shortbread base. Heat oven to 160°C. Rub the butter into the flour and sugar until the mixture makes a sticky dough. You can do this by hand or in a food processor. Press evenly into the base of a non-stick 26cm spring form tin and smooth with the back of a metal spoon. Prick all over with a fork, and then bake for 25-30 minutes until pale golden. Cool, and then carefully oil the sides of the tin using kitchen paper. n To make the filling, soak the gelatine in cold water for a few minutes to soften. Meanwhile, purée the strawberries in a food processor or with a hand blender until very smooth, then rub through a sieve to remove all the seeds. Pour the milk into a small pan and warm gently. Squeeze the gelatine of excess water, add to the milk, then remove from the heat and stir to dissolve. Cool. n Stir the strawberry purée, gelatine mixture, ricotta and sugar together until smooth. In a separate bowl, whisk the cream until it softly holds its DECEMBER 2012

Recipe GERARD BAKER Photograph STUART WOOD Styling SUE ROWLANDS Food styling LIZZIE HARRIS

WorldMags.net Strawberry mallow

Recipe SARA BUENFELD Photograph LIS PARSONS Styling JENNYIGGLEDEN Food styling SARA BUENFELD

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eat in show-off

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shape, then fold into the strawberry mixture with three-quarters of the marshmallows. n Carefully pour onto the cooled base and scatter over the remaining marshmallows. Cover the tin with cling film and chill until firm, preferably overnight. n Carefully remove the cheesecake from the tin. Decorate with extra berries and finish with a dusting of icing sugar. n PER SERVING 523 kcals, protein 7g, carbs 60g, fat 28g, sat fat 18g, fibre 1g, sugar 43g, salt 0.3g

THE PISTACHIO CONES To make special cones, finely chop 50g pistachios and melt 200g white chocolate. Dip 8-10 cones in the chocolate, let the excess run off, then dip into the pistachios and leave to set on baking parchment in the fridge.

Strawberry crème fraîche ice cream Serves 8 n 15 minutes + freezing n EASY strawberries 500g caster sugar 200g (try Tate & Lyle available at gourmet stores) crème fraîche 500g (try President available at gourmet stores)

Recipe MARY CADOGEN Photograph MAJA SMEND Styling JENNY IGGLEDEN Food styling LUCY McKELVIE

n Remove the tops from the strawberries and put in a food processor with the sugar. Blitz to make a rough purée – a few chunky bits add texture to the ice cream. n Tip the crème fraîche into a bowl and stir in the strawberry purée. Put in an ice-cream maker to churn or put the bowl into the freezer until the ice cream is firm 3cm in from the edge – about 1-2 hrs. Remove from the freezer and whisk to break down the ice crystals, return to the freezer for 1 hour longer, then whisk again. Transfer the ice cream to a freezer-proof container with a lid and freeze until firm. n To serve, transfer the ice cream to the fridge for about 20 minutes until it is soft enough to scoop. n PER SERVING 351 kcals, protein 2g, carbs 36g, fat 25g, sat fat 16g, fibre 1g, sugar 31g, salt 0.05g

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Serves 6 n 20 minutes n EASY Madeira cake 350g (available at your local bakery), sliced, sandwiched together with strawberry jam and cut into cubes strawberry or raspberry liqueur or crème de cassis 6 tbsp (try Monin available at gourmet stores) strawberries 400g, sliced or halved and sprinkled with 1 tbsp golden caster sugar vanilla custard 500g double cream 284ml, lightly whipped (available at your local dairy)

n Divide the cake between 6 glasses and sprinkle a little liqueur over each layer of cake. Spoon over the sliced strawberries and any leftover juices and then top each with a layer of custard and a layer of cream. Decorate with strawberries. n PER SERVING 607 kcals, protein 6.7g, carbs 59.1g, fat 39.3g, sat fat 22.2g, fibre 1.3g, salt 0.71g

Recipe LULU GRIMES Photograph DAVID MUNNS Styling VICTORIA ALLEN Food styling JENNIFER JOYCE, LUCY McKEVIE

Strawberry trifle

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White chocolate and strawberry marquise

Serves 8-10 n 35 minutes + chilling n EASY

Recipe MARY CADOGEN Photograph MAJA SMEND Styling JENNY IGGLEDEN Food styling LUCY McKELVIE

sponge fingers 6-8 (try Vicenzi available at gourmet stores) orange juice 4 tbsp, freshly squeezed white chocolate 300g, broken into pieces unsalted butter 25g double cream 200ml icing sugar 3 tbsp (try Bluebird available at gourmet stores) strawberries 500g n Line a 1.2 litre loaf tin with a double layer of cling-film allowing it to overhang the edges. Arrange rows of sponge fingers, width-wise, across the base. Sprinkle evenly with 3 tbsp orange juice. n Put chocolate in a heatproof bowl with the butter. Microwave on medium for 1 1/2-2 minutes, gently stirring halfway through. Whisk cream with 1 tbsp icing sugar until it just holds its shape. Fold in the melted chocolate until evenly mixed. n Select 8-10 even sized strawberries. Spoon half the chocolate mix into tin, then put selected strawberries down the centre of the tin, pressing down gently. Spoon over remaining chocolate cream and smooth the top. Fold overhanging cling-film over marquise. Chill for at least 24 hours, preferably 2 days in the fridge until set. n Weigh out 250g of the remaining strawberries, roughly chop them and put in the food processor with 2 tbsp icing sugar and 1 tbsp orange juice. Blitz until smooth, then press through a fine sieve to remove the seeds. Chill until needed. n To serve, unmould marquise and cut into thick slices. Serve with strawberry sauce and a few reserved strawberries. n PER SERVING 400 kcals, protein 4g, carbs 36g, fat 28g, sat fat 16g, fibre 1g, sugar 34g, salt 0.14g

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Japanese restaurants reviewed, plus a menu of authentic Mauritian dishes to try at home IN THIS ISSUE

T Seven Japanese restaurants put to the test, p 120 T Pro vs Punter, Ellipsis, Mumbai, p 128 T Eat Like a Local in Mauritius, p 130

Try the eclectic cuisine of the beautiful island of Mauritius, p 130

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eat out restaurant spy

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MEGU’s main dining room has a glass Buddha idol

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eat out restaurant spy

Restaurants on trial

Japanese Grain for grain, which Japanese restaurant packs the most flavour into its food? We put seven restaurants to the test

HOW WE DID IT Sophisticated, light and highlighting the freshest ingredients, Japanese food is the latest to

capture the imagination of Indians. We pick seven high-quality restaurants, both classic and contemporary, from across the country and evaluate how well they represent this exquisite cuisine.

MEGU, New Delhi Ever since it opened earlier this year, MEGU has been a favourite both for the undoubted quality of the ingredients as well as the warm, attentive and unobtrusive service. True, the restaurant is among the most expensive in India, but it is a meal well worth the price. Despite the decor being obviously luxurious, it is a likeable and warm space. For our meal, we order Crispy Wasabi Prawns with Mango Sauce. This popular dish is a take on rock shrimp tempura. Thanks to the rice batter used to coat them, the prawns retain their crunch despite the sauce. The best bit about the dish is that it is served with a spoonful of highly potent wasabi oil. Considering that most restaurants serve you a tame version of wasabi assembled from paste or powder, MEGU emphasises the fact that fresh wasabi is grated on to your plate. But the wasabi oil takes things a notch higher. The Yellow Tail Carpaccio brushed with grapeseed oil with kanzuri (a fermented chilli paste) on top is a MEGU classic and there’s nothing to fault here. But the Shira Ae, a vegetarian dish, surprisingly steals the show. This dish has been specially concocted for the India DECEMBER 2012

market. It is made with spinach and tofu crumbled into a sesame sauce, topped with crunchy rice crackers and lined with finely sliced squash. It is nothing short of addictive. For the mains, we order the MEGU classic White Cod Miso. The fish is perfectly cooked and its distinctive flavour shines through despite the strong taste of miso. For desserts, try the lovely Wasabi Cheesecake over the Creme Brulee with Wasabi Ice Cream that we sample this time.

n BESTSELLERS Shira Ae, Rock Shrimp Tempura, Wagyu Skewers, Yellow Tail Carpaccio.

n PROVENANCE Almost three fourths of the ingredients are imported, including kanzuri (made of red chillies from Nigata, one of the snowiest regions of Japan), and wasabi oil to yellow tail and wagyu beef. Veggies like eggplant, carrots, okra and tomatoes are organic and locally sourced.

n WHAT TO DRINK MEGU has an extensive sake menu that includes the only pink sparkling sake in India (Hana Hou Hou Shu). We try the barley sochu and a fresh, well-rounded Rihaku Junmai Ginjo sake (` 2,000 per carafe), which are both good.

n INSIDER TIP

Quality: 8.5/10 Atmosphere: 8.5/10 Provenance: 9/10 Choice: 8/10 Value: 8/10 Total: 42/50

— Anoothi Vishal

The recently introduced set menu for lunch offers great value. A threecourse lunch could cost you just about ` 1,800-2,500, since you pay only for the main course, while the appetiser and dessert are free.

n DETAILS Leela Palace Hotel, Chanakyapuri, Delhi. Tel: +91 11 39331234. Starters ` 700 onwards; mains ` 1,000 onwards; desserts ` 600.

n GO FOR SUSHI OR TEPPANYAKI? Sushi. The sushi menu includes standouts such as a black truffleyellow tail Nigiri, yellow tail Nigiri with kanzuri and fresh jalapeno and the classic seared tuna nigiri.

Salmon Tartare

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WorldMags.net directly from Tokyo’s Tsukiji market WASABI BY twice a week. While some of the MORIMOTO, vegetables are sourced locally, most of Mumbai the produce is imported. Sushi making is an art and a sushi master is a Shokunin or craftsman who takes his skill very seriously. It takes chefs years to perfect the art of rolling and cooking the rice. Chef Masa Tobayashi and his team of chefs seem to be scaling that ladder of excellence. If there’s one thing that sticks with you after your meal at Wasabi by Morimoto, it’s the sushi. Eight years after Chef Masaharu Morimoto started this uber-luxe Japanese restaurant, it continues to be loyally frequented by the super wealthy. Counted among the best Japanese restaurants in India, expectations are inevitably sky high. While the sushi meets those standards, the other dishes come a close second. Our Morimoto Ramen Soup is the perfect example of how a well-made broth can elevate a bowl of noodle soup. The lightly-flavoured, umami-packed, chicken broth is of the basic Shio Ramen kind, in which the broth holds centre stage. The dish is let down by the doughy and slightly undercooked noodles. As one of Morimoto’s signatures, the Ishi Yaki Vegetable Bop does not disappoint. A stone bowl is heated to 300 degrees, which lends a lovely caramelised char to the carrots, royal fern (a wild plant commonly used in Japanese and Korean cooking) and spinach all mixed with clumps of sticky rice, seaweed and a soy and white sesame sauce. After playing it safe with the mains, we decide to experiment with the Wasanbon Caramel Tiramisu. A play on the Italian tiramisu, the crisp Savoiardi biscuits hold within them dense custard (with an oddly unpleasant grainy texture), dusted with cocoa powder and served with a soya seed ice cream. The ice cream, which rests below a delicate caramel nest is not too sweet and pairs perfectly with the caramel and the tiramisu. 122 BBC GoodFood

n GO FOR SUSHI OR TEPPANYAKI? Unlike other establishments, the rice doesn’t overwhelm the fish in the sushi rolls at Wasabi. The wasabi root is freshly grated at your table, and yields the slight sweetness of radish before it hits your sinuses. The teppanyaki is nearly perfect in execution. The Tenderloin Teppanyaki, cooked to medium, is succulent with its meaty juices combining with a delightful sweet and sour clear broth.

n WHAT TO DRINK The restaurant’s sake list is concise, with the Masumi Hanamaru being the only affordable by-cup offering. Among the selection of seven sake labels, the pink-hued, chilled Junmai Nigori Sake comes highly recommended as a ladies’ drink.

n INSIDER TIP Lunch deals and bento boxes are not befitting given Wasabi’s decidedly exclusive positioning. Make the most of the premium you have to pay by grabbing a seat at the live sushi counter and watching Chef Tobayashi as he slices glistening chunks of tuna or prepares the restaurant’s signature White Fish Carpaccio.

n DETAILS

n BESTSELLERS Toro Tartare, Black Cod Miso, White Fish Carpaccio, Rock Shrimp Tempura, Sushi and Sashimi Platter and Wasabi Creme Brulee.

n PROVENANCE The restaurant claims the fish comes

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The Taj Mahal Palace & Towers, Apollo Bunder, Colaba, Mumbai. Tel: +91 22 66653366. Sushi ` 450 onwards; starters ` 885 onwards; mains ` 990 onwards; desserts ` 575 onwards.

Quality: 9/10 Atmosphere: 8/10 Provenance: 8/10 Choice: 9/10 Value: 7/10 Total: 41/50

— Kainaz Contractor DECEMBER 2012

EDO, Bengaluru

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Edo is not a restaurant you’d visit very often, but when you do go there for a special meal, you’ll remember it for a long time. The interior with its tall ceiling is minimalistic (but elegant and thankfully free of kitsch) and large tables have been thoughtfully put behind partitioned sections to cut down ambient noise. The menu comes to you on iPads, allowing you to see pictures and descriptions of all the dishes before ordering. The iPad app also lets you select the dishes and present them to the staff. To afford a meal at Edo, you may need to save up for months. But the food that arrives is so glorious that it’s completely worth the price. We try a wide variety of sashimi, including hotate (scallops), shake (salmon), and hamachi (yellowtail), as well as some unagi (grilled eel) and asparagus and avocado sushi. The freshness and flavour of all the fish is outstanding. We eat in silence, occasionally breaking out into cheesy grins over how good it is. The vegetarian rolls, while very fresh, just can’t match up in the flavour department with the fish. Along with our sushi and sashimi, we get some wonderful fresh wasabi grated at our table instead of the fake, coloured horseradish and mustard wasabi that passes off as the real thing in most Japanese restaurants. We also try items from the Braised and Steamed and Robatayaki (or charcoal-grilled) sections. The Buta Kakuni (slow-braised pork belly) made from Japanese black pig, has a deep and intense flavour, and the Sake Suzuki Nimono (sake-flavoured Chilean sea bass) is delicious enough to be pronounced the best dish of the evening. The Gindara or black cod is also worth ordering if you love fish. Ask them to make the miso-glazed version of the Gindara; it is tastier. The only nitpick we have with Edo is the appearance of flavourless DECEMBER 2012

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basa fish in their tempura, and the mock crab served in place of the real crustacean in the starters. For a restaurant of this stature, we expect more. The service is very polite and efficient, and the staff extremely knowledgeable. Every dish is thoroughly explained to customers, though at times it may come across as fawning (since not every diner likes to be asked about every course).

n BESTSELLERS Sushi, sashimi, yakitori and tempura.

n PROVENANCE All the meats and seafood are flown

in fresh from Japan twice a week, along with some exotic mushrooms and vegetable garnishes. Common vegetables are sourced locally.

n GO FOR SUSHI OR TEPPANYAKI? Sushi. Edo doesn’t have a teppanyaki grill to sit around and watch, and the quality and freshness of the fish makes sushi an easy recommendation. Try the chu-toro (fatty tuna belly), shake (salmon) and the hamachi (yellowtail).

Clockwise from facing page: The elegant interiors of Wasabi; A bento box; Edo’s sushi counter; An assorted nigiri sushi platter; Wasabi’s White Fish Carpaccio

n WHAT TO DRINK Edo has a large sake menu, most of which costs upwards of ` 5,000 a bottle. But the sake cocktails, especially the Saketini made with ginger and sake, and the Cucumber Saketini, are excellent, with very delicate and refreshing flavours.

n INSIDER TIP

option for value-conscious customers. It has a selection of sushi, tempura, karaage or fried chicken, fried rice, nimono or simmered fish and miso soup. You could also try the Sunday brunch, which costs ` 2,500, allinclusive.

n DETAILS Hotel ITC Gardenia, No 1, Residency Road, Bangalore. Tel: +91 80 22119898. Mains ` 750 onwards; desserts ` 300 onwards.

Quality: 10/10 Atmosphere: 9/10 Provenance: 9/10 Choice: 10/10 Value: 7/10 Total: 45/50

— Madhu Menon

At ` 1,850, the bento box is a good

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TEPPAN @ BENJARONG, Chennai

Restaurants with open kitchens, teppenyaki grills and live counters make for great conversation starters. In a Japanese teppanyaki restaurant, the entertainment is provided by the chefs showing off their skills on an iron griddle. Teppan is no different. We walk into the restaurant and opt for seats around the iron grill to get a ringside view. We start our meal with a Yasai Salad, highly recommended by the chef. Finely shredded iceberg lettuce, cucumber and carrots are tossed with a little mayo, and fried tempura batter provides an interesting crunch. Soon after, we see our artist at work. For mains, we order assorted grilled vegetables and burnt garlic rice. Carrots, beans, zucchini, broccoli, coloured bell peppers and corn are tossed on the griddle with soy sauce, miso and a generous amount of sake to create a light and healthy meal. Burnt garlic pairs particularly well with the vegetables and the sticky rice. Next, we try the Sea Bass with Black Oyster Sauce. Fresh fish is grilled to perfection and allowed to cook in a dark sauce. The mild acidity from the fermented rice and barley in the miso sauce enhances the taste of the fish. You could substitute the sea bass with tuna, snapper, lobster, prawns, salmon or scallops and meat lovers could pick chicken, tenderloin and rack of lamb. Vegetarians could try the Tofu with Bean Sprouts or Grilled Mushrooms in Pepper Sauce.

comes from the Indian Ocean, but the salmon is imported.

n GO FOR SUSHI OR TEPPANYAKI? This is a tough choice to make. Teppan serves three kinds of sushi: Maki, Nigiri and Sashimi. The Sake Maki is made of salmon and the Yasai Maki has a combination of carrots, asparagus, cucumber and pickled radish. The sushis are served with wasabi and ginger and are available in seafood, meat and vegetarian versions. If you prefer a bolder flavour, then teppanyaki is the answer.

n WHAT TO DRINK Your choice is restricted to mocktails. If you are adventurous, try the Bloody Wasabi made of tomato juice spiked with wasabi, cucumber and spices.

n BESTSELLERS

n INSIDER TIP

Kaki Age Maki, Rainbow Maki, Yasai Maki, Tori Kyuri Nigiri and Sea Bass.

Try the combination meals (` 890) that include a salad, starter, soup, two main courses, rice and dessert, and are available in seafood, meat and vegetarian options.

n PROVENANCE Almost 80 per cent of the ingredients are imported. All the sauces, sake, rice and seaweed come from Japan along with eel, mackerel, octopus and fish roe. A large amount of fish 124 BBC GoodFood

n DETAILS 146/537, TTK Road, Alwarpet. Tel: +91 44 32216635. Starters ` 190

onwards; mains ` 320 onwards; desserts ` 90 onwards.

Quality: 8/10 Atmosphere: 7/10 Choice: 8/10 Provenance: 9/10 Value: 8/10 Total: 40/50

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— Lakshmi Baliga DECEMBER 2012

KOFUKU, Mumbai

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Japanese Izakaya or informal drinking and dining institutions aren’t too familiar to Indian diners. Our introduction to Japanese cuisine began with high-end restaurants serving exorbitantly priced sushi, evolving to quaint, home-style eateries and take-away restaurants serving sushi on the go. Kofuku, Bandra’s newest Japanese restaurant, seems to have found the middle path to success. Bustling with Japanese expatriates and locals alike, the twomonth old restaurant has a warm and welcoming vibe. The décor is what you’d find at a slightly upmarket if not traditional Izakaya – paper lanterns, wood panelling, tatami or floor seating and a stocked bar. The menu is exhaustive and repeated trips to do full justice to the food are in order. We’d happily go back again for the Kakuni. The Nagasaki-style braised pork in broth is the one of the best pork preparations we’ve had in the city. It’s hard to imagine that this tender chunk of meat in the most delicate of dashi broths is sourced locally. In the afterglow of the Kakuni, the Rock Corn in a Creamy Spicy Sauce and Japanese Hambagu leave us marginally underwhelmed. The kernels of sweet corn fried to a golden crisp and tossed in spicy mayo, fall disappointingly short on freshness, as if they have been sitting out for a while before it reached our table. A spin on a hamburger patty topped with grated daikon, our Hambagu steak with minced tenderloin is cooked to perfection and rests in a pool of its own, delicately flavoured juices. But it is a tad over salted. Despite the hits and misses by the kitchen, the service shines through with efficient and polite wait staff who ensure the food takes no more than 10 minutes to reach our table – a feat for a packed restaurant. DECEMBER 2012

eat out restaurant spy

n BESTSELLERS

Black Cod Miso, Kakuni, Prawn Tempura and the Sushi Sampler.

n PROVENANCE The rice, sauces, wasabi, sake and dashi are brought in from Japan by Rinchen Angchuk, Japanese food importer-turned-restaurateur. The vegetables, pork and fish are local while the hamachi, octopus, sea bass, beef and lamb are imported.

n GO FOR SUSHI OR TEPPANYAKI? Our delicious Teppanyaki Fried Rice has a bounty of vegetables and the distinct char from a grill but our loyalties lie with the sushi. The seafood in Kofuku’s assorted sushi platter, which holds 18 pieces of tuna, salmon and hamachi nigiri as well as maki rolls, is fresh and flavourful for the most part. But the frozen salmon is given away not by its taste but its overtly supple texture.

n WHAT TO DRINK Kofuku’s sake offerings are priced alarmingly high. At ` 6,000 – ` 30,000, they are more expensive than those at Wasabi by Morimoto. But the restaurant’s regular Japanese clientele don’t seem to mind. On both the occasions we visit, the sake is sold out, making us settle for good ol’ Asahi beer. Apart from sake cocktails and other standard beverages, there are also a couple of Japanese single malts and sparkling wines on offer.

n INSIDER TIP Given that there are barely any noteworthy Japanese delivery options in the city, Kofuku’s delivery menu scores big with a box of 12 pieces of sushi priced at ` 500. The bento box option is sorely missing from the restaurant’s lunch menu but is available on the delivery menu.

n DETAILS Kenilworth Shopping Arcade, Level 2, Linking Road, Bandra (W). Tel: +91 22 67105105/ 67101101. Sushi

` 180 onwards; starters ` 300 onwards; mains ` 350 onwards; desserts ` 150 onwards.

Quality: 7/10 Atmosphere: 8/10 Provenance: 7/10 Choice: 8/10 Value: 8/10 Total: 38/50

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— Kainaz Contractor

Clockwise from facing page: The teppenyaki grill at Teppan; Elegant tatami (floor) seating at Kofuku; An assorted sushi platter; Teppan’s Dragon Maki BBC GoodFood 125

SAKURA, New Delhi

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Sakura, the country’s first Japanese restaurant, continues to serve authentic cuisine amidst a sea of arguably more popular contemporary Japanese restaurants. For the first time in a decade, Sakura has also changed its F&B offerings. Substantial Izakaya offerings have been added by way of snacks. But all the classic favourites remain unchanged. So, you can now have mayo-laden Prawn Tempura or Unagi-Avocado Rolls but also hand-pressed Kampachi (a variety of yellow tail) Nigiri. You can munch on Kaisen Okonomiyaki (a cross between a sponge cake and pizza, made with tempura flour, cabbage, squid, prawns and octopus) as well as the traditional Onigiri Meal (rice balls with nori and fish or fish roe plus a bowl of miso soup). The highlight of our meal is Chinmi Santemori, listed as the “chef’s choice” among the appetisers. Three tiny bowls with squid, eel (plus abalone and seaweed) and jellyfish with cod roe come to the table and it is an excellent beginning. Sakura’s take on the pizza will find takers but I wouldn’t recommend it. It tastes too much like a cabbage-flavoured cake with little by way of textural contrast or seafood flavour. The Yellow Tail Nigiri, however, is flawless and fresh. I also enjoy every bit of the Prawn Tempura Rolls. If you are looking for a meal in a bowl, the ramen is also worth trying. The Miso Ramen with boiled eggs and pork rind offers the perfect balance between the light broth and the wheat noodles.

n BESTSELLERS Sushi, miso ramen bowls and bento boxes.

n PROVENANCE About 80 per cent of the ingredients is imported, although not exclusively from Japan. The chicken and vegetables are sourced locally. 126 BBC GoodFood

n WHAT TO DRINK Sake and sake cocktails are available apart from a regular wine and whisky drinks menu. The sake martini we try, always the litmus test of a Japanese drinks menu, is excellent.

n GO FOR SUSHI OR TEPPANYAKI? Considering that Sakura does not have a live teppan counter (which is half the fun of teppanyaki) and that the sushi is both well priced and of excellent quality, go for the nigiri sushi here.

Clockwise from above: Sakura’s Assorted Sushi Platter; Yasai Krokke; The classic interiors. Clockwise on facing page: Harajuku’s red décor; Rainbow Rolls

n INSIDER TIP At ` 2,400 plus taxes for unlimited portions of all the popular items on

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the menu, the Sunday brunch is a great opportunity to try Sakura’s offerings. For a more elaborate experience, try the Kaiseki or traditional, eight-course meal.

n DETAILS The Metropolitan Hotel, Bangla Sahib Road, New Delhi. Tel: +91 11 42500200. Starters ` 200 onwards; mains ` 500 onwards; desserts ` 200.

Quality: 8/10 Atmosphere: 7.5/10 Provenance: 8/10 Choice: 8.5/10 Value: 9/10 Total: 41/50

— Anoothi Vishal DECEMBER 2012

WorldMags.net HARAJUKU, Pune Harajuku is Pune’s only Japanese restaurant. It is elegant, with stark red chandeliers and walls and red flock-upholstered chairs. The quality of the food is outstanding and has remained consistent for years. The menu has remained unchanged for five years. It covers the entire gamut of popular Japanese cuisine from sashimi to different kinds of sushi, including hand-rolled temaki, nigiri, gunkan and maki rolls and ‘special rolls’, in which seaweed and seafood are both on the inside, made scrumptious by adding mayonnaise or Japanese spice or both. Chef Alex, the Filipino head chef, has been at Harajuku from the beginning. His sushi is always perfect—the rice not too wet and perfectly flavoured. He also adds a touch of wasabi between the fish and the rice for a tiny kick. The traditional starters such as edamame, tuna tataki, miso soup and salads are fresh. The Oxford Salad with mixed greens, grilled salmon and avocado in a soy and ginger dressing is a meal in itself. Grills and mains are categorised according to the protein. The restaurant also serves individual teppenyaki dishes in case a group doesn’t want to move to the teppenyaki table. The Teppanyaki Tenderloin with a delicious buttery soy sauce is hard to stop eating. The meat is so tender and it is well worth trying it medium rare. The Pork Teriyaki is hard to fault, with the sweet teriyaki sauce pairing perfectly with the pork. The Tempura is wonderfully crispy with no trace of oil at all. Harajuku serves a superlative Chawan Musai, a savoury, steamed egg custard with seafood and prawns, one of the acid tests of a good Japanese restaurant.

n PROVENANCE Most of the seafood is imported except prawns and white fish. Duck, some cuts of steak and pork are also imported. Chicken is sourced locally and the grass fed tenderloin is from Bangalore. All vegetables, including the beautiful shiitake mushrooms are sourced locally.

n GO FOR SUSHI OR TEPPANYAKI? Personally, I think that the sushi platter here is one of the best in the country. Since many Japanese patrons frequent the restaurant, the seafood is always fresh and Chef Alex informs customers if something is not available. Teppanyaki is more of a sharing experience so choose it if you are in a large group.

sashimi with imported seafood. Sushi sets come with 10, 15 or 20 pieces. The bento box and chef’s special lunches are a great way to enjoy Japanese cuisine without taking out a bank loan. For instance, the sushi set lunch has an appetiser, miso soup, grilled salmon, tempura, six types of sushi and a dessert. It is quite a steal at ` 1,375.

Quality: 8/10 Atmosphere: 7/10 Provenance: 8/10 Choice: 9/10 Value: 7/10 Total: 39/50

— Karen Anand

n DETAILS The O Hotel, Koregaon Park, North Main Road, Pune. Tel: + 91 20 40011000. Starters ` 675 onwards; teppenyaki mains ` 975 onwards; desserts ` 500 onwards. Sushi platters ` 1,875 onwards.

n WHAT TO DRINK Asahi beer and two types of sake are available, served either warm or chilled.

n BESTSELLERS

n INSIDER TIP

Special Rolls, Rainbow Roll, Volcano, Tenderloin Teppenyaki.

Order a Jyo sashimi platter with 12 pieces of assorted raw fish or Tokujou

DECEMBER 2012

eat out restaurant spy

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BBC GoodFood 127

provspunter

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Does your average diner agree with what the restaurant professionals think? BBC Good Food reader Nisha JamVwal and food blogger Kalyan Karmarkar compare notes on Mumbai’s Ellipsis THE RESTAURANT

ELLIPSIS Although opulent with its swish furnishings, bright lighting and walls adorned with black and ochre murals, Ellipsis radiates a convivial vibe. This split-level, fine-dining restaurant specialises in modern American cuisine and was conceptualised by American chefs Bryan and Michael Voltaggio, contestants on the popular TV show Top Chef. The menu has been created by executive chef Kevin Cheung while Alex and David Kaplan have devised the inventive bar menu.

THE PRO

Kalyan Karmarkar is a Mumbai-based food blogger. A market researcher by profession, he spends his weekends rustling up new dishes in his kitchen or visiting new restaurants.

THE PUNTER

n Ellipsis, B-1 Amarchand Mansion, 16 Madame Cama Road, Colaba, Mumbai. Tel: +91 22 6621 3333. Daily 12 pm – 3 pm and 6 pm – 1:30 am. Average spend for two: ` 6,000 Pushy table turning? No Regular water offered? Yes Veggie options? Not too many

128 BBC GoodFood

Nisha JamVwal is a well-known interior designer, art consultant and columnist. She is passionate about food and enjoys eating out.

FIRST IMPRESSIONS

THE SERVICE

I walk in to Ellipsis on a Tuesday afternoon to grab a quick lunch. The place is completely empty. This is a bit scary. I am later told that the restaurant opened only recently for lunch, hence the vacuum. The first thing that strikes me on entering is the sense of space, so rare for Mumbai, particularly South Mumbai. The decor is a mix of functional white chairs (which seem to be raining down on every new restaurant in Mumbai these days) and sections which are Ye Olde English club-like with rugs, armchairs and a great collection of paintings. It is a slightly schizophrenic mix of ‘modern world city’ in parts and classic ‘South Mumbai’ in others, yet not too discordant. Bright and sunny, Ellipsis is a nice place to park yourself on an afternoon.

I bump into the owner of the restaurant and chat about his perspective on the restaurant and his recommendations from the menu. I wonder if the regular waiters would be as articulate, although they are certainly attentive, clearing the table in time and changing the plates like clockwork.

The heritage building leads to an artsy interior, which is certainly the highlight of Ellipsis. There are different zones – the long bar facing the wall is a relaxing area, adjacent to a very chic lounge. The fur rugs, recliners, sofas, quirky modern lamps, paintings where the art goes beyond the canvases and onto the walls in dramatic lines and brush strokes, the antique and modern blend of furniture and pendulum lights make the place spectacular. The main restaurant seating is on the upper level, decked up in contemporary art and edgy lighting.

The staff is extremely welcoming and takes us on a tour of the restaurant before we settle down to order in the intimate lounge area adjacent to the bar. But I am taken aback by the confusion that ensues when I ask for vegan recommendations and signature starters. Due to my guest’s special dietary preference, the chef is called in to take our order.

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DECEMBER 2012

eat out restaurant reviews

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Beet salad

The bright interiors of Ellipsis

Kahlua chocolate mousse

THE FOOD

THE VERDICT

THE BILL

The food titillates at times but doesn’t really wow. The chef’s interpretation of modern American food appears to be a license to mix flavours from the various cultures that make up America today. I order a medium-rare burger; even Anthony Bourdain would have approved of the juices that ooze out as I cut the patty. The fries are the way God meant them to be and the bun buttery. It’s a pity that the patty is under-seasoned although it comes alive when devoured with the house relishes and mustard. The Pork Belly Ramen is a bit of a puzzle as I cannot find any belly as I eat my way through the soup, noodles and corn. Once I point out the missing link to the waiter, the chef comes running with three pieces of pork belly. The errant belly, once found, is very tender with a clean flavour. The soup is a subtle balance of miso, robust pork bones and slightly-sweet chopped corn. For dessert I order a robust Cappuccino with Crème Brûlée. The Crème Brûlée is warm in parts, lukewarm in others and a tad cold in bits. Unfortunately, the restaurant has only Crème Brûlée and Cheesecakes on its day menu so I go for a Coffee Plus from the night menu. I dig into the delicately-flavoured coffee mousse, crème caramel, orange reduction, and fried bread, all in one scoop. The contrasting flavours blend together beautifully, though I could do with a few more pieces of fried bread. Thereafter, I try the Bloody Mary, a recommendation on the menu. Pulpy, intense and peppery, this is the first time I actually like a Bloody Mary. Love it actually!

If a bright and sunny atmosphere for brunches or lunches impresses you, then this a good place to visit. The food will excite you in bits while occasionally leaving you underwhelmed. With lavish paintings, comfortable sink-in sofas and the elegance of Colaba just outside, Ellipsis will work for you if you’re fond of the good life.

Karmarkar’s meal for one including one starter, one main, one dessert and one cocktail is ` 3,230 including taxes.

FOOD: 6/10 ATMOSPHERE: 7/10 SERVICE: 7/10 TOTAL: 20/30 Go again? As I flip through the menu, I already begin making plans to return for a Sunday brunch. Who knows, next time the food might wow me too and the experience won’t be just about la dolce vita.

The restaurant’s pièce de The food is elaborately plated and lives up to the subtle drama of the interiors. JamVwal’s meal for four résistance is the artsy, The presentation matches international haute cuisine standards. However, the including four starters, four edgy and haute interiors. starters are not as spectacular in taste. The appetisers, which we are told we mains and three desserts is The international, nouvelle must have, are the Pea Soup; Jamon, made from Ibérico ham, foie gras mousse, ` 7,780 including taxes. concept works for me. Manchego cheese, tomato and flatbreads; and Beets which is a salad of beetroot FOOD: 6/10 with goat cheese air served on cardamom and coffee soil. What stands out is the ATMOSPHERE: delectably-flavoured beet purée. Unfortunately, the foie gras is meagre on the 8/10 toasted bread. The Pea Soup leaves us unimpressed. SERVICE: 6/10 The chef personally discusses the main course with us. My vegan friend chooses the Fettuccine with marinara sauce. We also opt for Vegetables TOTAL: 20/30 with fall succotash, eggplant confit, sweet peas, carrots and long beans. The ant? r u vegetables are artistically presented on large, slate platters. The Sassoon Dock a t s e r ’s review a Good Food Go again? with pappardelle pasta, prawns, barramundi, red snapper, heirloom Want htaonce to becom0e0-word review c 2 Definitely. tomatoes and Manchego cheese is succulent and flavoursome. a a r il , Fo ter, ema e visited For dessert, we call for Rocky Road with Marshmallows, Chocolate next punestaurant you’v s Punter’, to of any r heading ‘Pro v.in with your Rocks and Cookie Ice Cream. However, it does not live up to its decadent with the [email protected] ld be the description. The Deconstructed Passion Fruit Tart is hard and tasteless. ou cou bcgood

b details. Y contact e! lucky on WorldMags.net

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Eat like a local

Mauritius The eclectic flavours of Africa, Asia and Europe come together in the melting pot of Mauritian cuisine

EASY MENU FOR 4 T Peas and mint soup T Sautéed prawns and palm heart salad with tangy tomato and pineapple chutney T Red snapper vindaye with three-coloured peppers T Exotic fruit cannelloni

Words KIRAN MEHTA Inputs and recipes CHEF PRAVIND JUGUN Photographs ANSHUMAN SEN

T

he first spectacle that greets visitors to Mauritius is the lush verdant tract along turquoise blue waters, framed within jagged hills. Add to this a rose-tinted sunset across the horizon and it is easy to understand why Mark Twain believed that “heaven was copied after Mauritius.” The idyllic beauty entices travellers instantly. According to Chef Pravind Jugun, Chef de Cuisine at Constance Le Prince Maurice, Mauritian food is eclectic, much like the people. Over the centuries, this pearl drop-shaped island in the Indian Ocean has been inhabited by the Portuguese, the Dutch, the French and the British who brought in Indian indentured labourers and Chinese workers. Each of these immigrants added their distinct seasoning to the traditional cuisine, resulting in an unusual jumble of European, African and Asian flavours that now comprises the typical Mauritian menu. A meal at a chic beach-front eatery typically starts with breaking some oven-fresh baguettes. Traditionally, in colloquial Creole, the term baguette encompasses a variety of buns and breads, served with spicy butter and an array of chutneys –- fiery red, zesty green –- and mango achard (or pickle). Mains are likely to include a tangy vegetable or chicken /mutton curry, served with a bowl of rice. In comparison to Indian cuisine, the curries here are not quite as peppery, yet far from bland, since they are

130 BBC GoodFood

balanced with the right quantities of spices and herbs. Portuguese flavours are relished in the form of vindaye (or vindaloo). The vindaye marinade is made from aromatic spices such as turmeric, wholegrain mustard, mustard seeds, salt and pepper. Added to this are chopped onions, garlic, vinegar and olive oil along with pieces of fish. The fish varies from the island’s favourite tuna, to the prized calamari, or even the rare octopus. The vindaye is generally served with a bowl of rice or farathas (parathas). A Sino-Mauritian nuance can be found in the form of mine frites (fried noodles). The frites are like chow mein, and can be cooked with diced vegetables. Non-vegetarians can order frites cooked with meats such as chicken, beef and mutton or a selection of poissons or fish. The much-consumed rougail - a Creole contribution to the Mauritian kitchen - deserves special mention. Rougail sauce is made with pommes d’amour or tomatoes and sautéed onions in olive oil, tempered with cumin seeds, garlic, ginger, cinnamon, chilli, salt and pepper. Fish, chicken or red meat such as beef is added to this delicately-spiced gravy. Almost all the dishes pair well with fresh coconut water or a no-fuss local Phoenix beer. Teetotallers can down tropical fruit juices freshly squeezed from locally grown passion fruit, mango and litchis.

Chef Pravind Jugun is Chef de Cuisine at Constance Le Prince Maurice.

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Since sugarcane fields occupy vast swathes of land in Mauritius, a meal here is incomplete without some sweetmeat. The sinful Napolitaine consists of two pieces of shortbread, joined together by a generous layer of raspberry jam. It is coated with syrupy berry icing which hardens to give the Napolitaine a pretty pink shell. Bite-sized and deceptively light, just one Napolitaine is never enough. With such a medley of cuisines on offer, you wonder what the daily diet of locals looks like. A local joke describes it best. A true Mauritian starts his day with croissants dipped in chai. Lunch consists of dholl-puri or dal and puri or seafood frites as starters, followed by spicy, meaty rougail. And finally dinner at a French restaurant!

Peas and mint soup Serves 4 n 1 hour n EASY fresh peas 450g, boiled fresh mint leaves 45g, finely chopped milk 1l REALLY salt to taste REALLY freshly ground pepper to taste EASY olive oil 10ml n Bring together the peas and mint leaves in a blender. Boil the milk and pour half of the boiling milk into the peas and mint leaves. Blend and mix well. n Add the rest of the milk slowly until you get a smooth, creamy soup. Pour the soup in a saucepan and bring to a boil. n Season with salt and pepper. Garnish with mint leaves and droplets of olive oil. DECEMBER 2012

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Peas and mint soup The menu of a roadside café in Grand Baie

Sautéed prawns and palm heart salad with tangy tomato and pineapple chutney

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eat away mauritius

WorldMags.net Sautéed prawns and palm heart salad with tangy tomato and pineapple chutney Serves 4 n 1 1/2 hours n MODERATELY EASY

The Constance Le Prince Maurice

MINI GUIDE TO MAURITIUS EAT n Overlooking the Legend golf course, The Deer Hunter at Constance Belle Mare Plage (bellemareplagehotel. constancehotels.com) is a fine-dining restaurant that offers a fantastic view of the greenery and fairways. By day you can watch golfers cruise by in their carts, and as the sun goes down, you can spot herds of deer walking gracefully across the course. Dig into some fusion fare as you enjoy the magnificent view. n Barachois at Constance Le Prince Maurice (princemaurice.constancehotels.com) is a floating restaurant set out on the lagoon. The breathtaking view is a treat to the eye. Head here for an early dinner of exotic seafood and watch the sky turn a deeper shade of blue as it merges into the dark waters.

STAY n Replete with elegant interiors and an expansive view of the lagoon, the six-star Constance Le Prince Maurice is highly impressive. With 76 suites and 13 villas set on sprawling tropical gardens, this is the ultimate hideaway. Although it is far removed, it offers myriad facilities –‑ a spa with trained masseurs; the Lounge or Laguna bar where bartenders put together some addictive cocktails; a children’s club as well as a video and book library. n Constance Belle Mare Plage is a luxury resort stretching across two kilometres of white sandy beaches. It has several activities on offer –‑ water-skiing, windsurfing, boat rides and golf. You can workout at the wellequipped gymnasium, or attend a yoga class, and when exhausted, head to the spa for a relaxing massage. There are six different restaurants and bars to choose from.

DO n Embark on a culinary adventure at Constance Le Prince Maurice. Book in advance for a three-hour cooking class held at the luxury hotel, every Wednesday. The class begins with a visit to the Central Flacq Market, a buzzing bazaar where one is instantly hit by the vibrant hues and aromas of locally-grown fruits and vegetables. The chef teaches you the Creole names of a host of ingredients. Donning an apron and chef’s hat, you will be

pineapple juice 500ml prawns 500g olive oil 40ml butter 40g curry leaves 8g ginger 8g red chilli 8g, julienned salt and pepper to taste THE COCONUT MILK VINAIGRETTE coconut milk 40ml lemon juice 2ml salt a pinch THE SALAD palm heart or fennel or celery stalks 120g, julienned lemon juice 40ml salt to taste pepper to taste THE TOMATO AND PINEAPPLE CHUTNEY onions 80g, chopped ginger 80g, chopped garlic 80g, chopped pineapple 80g, diced tomatoes 80g, diced spring onion 40g coriander leaves 20g n Reduce pineapple juice in a pan, on low heat, until it reaches a syrup-like consistency. Keep aside. To make the vinaigrette, reduce the coconut milk on low fire. When it reaches a thick consistency, add lemon juice and salt. Set aside. n Season the prawns and cook in a hot pan with oil. Add butter when they are half cooked and toss until they are properly cooked. Strain the fat from the pan. Add curry leaves, ginger and chilli. Sauté the prawns, season and set aside. n To make the salad, season the palmheart with lemon juice, salt and pepper. Mix all the ingredients for the tomato

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and pineapple chutney, and set aside. Using a cooking ring put the chutney in the middle of the plate. Place cooked prawns over the chutney base. Add the salad to this. n Smear on the reduced pineapple sauce and coconut milk vinaigrette. Garnish with chutney and coriander leaves. Serve hot.

Red snapper vindaye with three-coloured peppers Serves 4 n 2 1/2 hours n MODERATELY EASY onions 200g red, yellow and green bell peppers 100g each red snapper or any white fish fillet 500g (slices of 20g each) fresh red chilli 10g olive oil 40ml salt and pepper to taste THE MUSTARD SAUCE soya bean oil 35ml onions 50g, sliced garlic paste 18g ginger paste 18g curry leaves 1g Dijon mustard 45g wholegrain mustard 70g white vinegar 50ml turmeric powder 10g sugar 16g lemon juice 8ml water 225ml coriander leaves 6g n Peel the onions, cut into petals and sauté. Keep aside. Cut the peppers into different shapes (rectangular/diced/ julienned). Sauté in batches with olive oil and set aside. n Prepare the mustard sauce by heating the soya bean oil in a pan. Then add the onions, ginger and garlic paste and curry leaves. Cook for up to 3 minutes. n In a bowl, mix the mustards, vinegar, turmeric powder, sugar, lemon juice and water. Then add this mixture to the cooked onions and simmer for 10 minutes. Add the slices of fish to

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Red snapper vindaye with three-coloured peppers

At a market in Port Louis

Boats anchored in Grand Baie

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eat away mauritius

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taught a few simple, signature Mauritian recipes under the tutelage of an expert chef. At the end of the session you can enjoy your own creations.

the prepared sauce and cook the fish. Place the cooked fish on the plate and top it up with the cooked peppers. n Garnish with onion petals, coriander leaves and red chilli. Serve with rice or chapati.

GETTING THERE n Air Mauritius offers direct flights from Mumbai, and Air India offers direct flights four times a week from New Delhi to Mauritius. Other airlines such as Emirates offer flights via hubs such as Dubai.

Exotic fruit cannelloni Serves 4 n 1 hour 15 minutes + freezing n A LITTLE EFFORT sago (sabudana) 100g milk 100g coconut milk 100g coconut 30g, grated THE COCONUT SORBET coconut pureé 500g sugar 50g THE PASSION FRUIT JELLY passion fruit pureé 500g (reduced juice) agar-agar or gelatin 10g (available at speciality baking stores) sugar 100g THE PASSION FRUIT SAUCE passion fruit juice 50g (Try Ceres available at gourmet stores) sugar 20g

Avocados

THE FRUIT SALAD pineapple 1, diced papaya 1 small, diced kiwi fruit 2, diced passion fruit 2, flesh scooped out coriander leaves 3g, chopped

LOCAL KNOWLEDGE n The dodo was a bird endemic to Mauritius. First spotted by the Portuguese, legend has it that the slow-moving, flightless bird was nothing more than a mass of delicious flesh. Full of fat, the dodo came under attack by the Dutch which led to its extinction. n While the dodo is no longer an option, there’s still some exotic crocodile meat to savour. Bite into it at La Vanille Reserve des Mascareignes, a crocodile park located in the south. Alternatively, head to the Crocodile Affame or Hungry Crocodile restaurant.

MENU DECODER

n Wash the sago with warm water. Mix the milk and coconut milk in a pot. Add

MUST BUY

BREDES a local term for edible wild shoots or leaves that are cooked in broth or stewed and usually served with rice. BOUCANE smoked meat, generally pork CAMARON a local freshwater prawn. It needs six years to reach its full adult size and is deemed an endangered species today. However, it is increasingly being replaced by a farmed species, Camaron Rosenberghii. KARIPOULE curry leaves.

Exotic fruit cannelloni to this the washed sago and cook for 15 minutes on low flame. Take the mixture off the flame and add grated coconut to it. Allow mix to cool and then roll mixture onto a plastic film. Shape into little cylinders and freeze. n To prepare the coconut sorbet, cook the coconut pureé and sugar, then churn in an ice-cream maker and freeze. n To prepare the passion fruit jelly, warm the syrup. Mix the agar-agar with sugar and add to warmed syrup. Boil this mix. Pour hot mixture on a tray and spread to get a regular 2mm thickness. Set aside. n To prepare the passion fruit sauce, cook the two ingredients together. When the mix begins to boil, lower the heat and allow it to cook till it reaches syruplike consistency. Then leave to cool. n To prepare the fruit salad, mix everything together and refrigerate. n Decorate the rim of the plate with fruit salad. Roll out the sago cylinders on the passion fruit jelly and freeze for a while and cut into halves and place in the middle of the plate. Pour the passion fruit sauce over the sorbet. Garnish with cut fruits and serve.

RHUM Rum, or rhum as it is referred to in Creole is manufactured in Mauritius on a large scale. Bring back a bottle of rhum made out of distilled molasses, or a bottle of the potent liquid made from pure sugarcane juice. You can also opt for homemade rum available in several fruit flavours. DEMERARA SUGAR Originally sourced from the Demerara colony in Guyana, this golden-brown, unrefined sugar takes the guilt out of indulgence. Bring home a few packets to add a lovely caramel touch to sweetmeats. VANILLA Local to Mauritius, vanilla is one of the most expensive condiments in the world. Grab a good deal on some fresh vanilla sticks available at the Central Flacq Market.

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masterclass

COOK LIKE A PRO Smart ways to improve your kitchen skills

In this section T Alex Sanchez’s key lime pie masterclass p 136 T Homemade marshmallows p 140

Words KAINAZ CONTRACTOR Photograph DAVID MUNNS

T Christmassy food and wine pairings by Rohan Jelkie p 147

VED O R P P A

INFUSER

It might be sold commonly in stores as a tea infuser or strainer but this nifty tool with a metal sieve is so much more than that. No one likes biting into a whole pod of elaichi midway through a meal and this tool takes care of that problem. Essentially a reusable version of the bouquet garni, an infuser filters out any obtrusions while allowing the herbs and spices to impart their flavour. Simply stuff the infuser with your herbs or spices, clip the two halves together and hook the chain over the side of the pan. Curries and stocks aside, we have even used it to flavour olive oil and make mulled wine. Available at cookware stores from ` 150 onwards.

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ALEX SANCHEZ’S

Masterclass

Alex Sanchez, executive chef at The Table in Mumbai, makes key lime pie from scratch Recipe ALEX SANCHEZ Photographs VIKAS MUNIPALLE

Key lime pie

Alex Sanchez in the Good Food kitchen

Makes 6-8 individual pies n 1 hour + refrigerating n MODERATELY EASY

Our local nimbus are the perfect substitute for key limes. If you find the zest of lime too bitter, substitute it with lemon zest. THE PASTRY butter 250g, chilled and cut into small cubes flour 2 1/2 cups sugar 175g egg yolks 4 key lime 1, zested THE FILLING sugar 400g cream 300g key limes 9, juiced eggs 9 egg yolks 2 demerara sugar for dusting (try Tate & Lyle available at gourmet stores)

VE I S U L EXC BY-STEP STEP-ECIPE R 136 BBC GoodFood

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JUNE 2012

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masterclass chef skills

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Take a mixing bowl and add the chilled cubes of butter to the flour.

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Rub it between your hands until it becomes the texture of wet sand. You could also use a stand mixer or food processor to get the job done quicker.

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In another bowl, blend the sugar and egg yolks with a hand blender.

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Fold in the lemon zest with a rubber spatula until incorporated.

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Add the egg yolk mixture to the flour and butter. Incorporate the mixture slowly and mix well.

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Fold the ingredients together with a rubber spatula until a dough begins to form.

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Knead until it resembles a ball of dough. Keep it aside to rest for an hour.

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Dusting with flour as needed, knead it until the dough becomes smooth and malleable.

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Wrap the dough in cling film and refrigerate until hardened (about an hour).

138 BBC GoodFood

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DECEMBER 2012

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masterclass chef skills

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Take a medium-sized ball of dough and roll it out to a thickness of 1/8 inches. It should be enough to fit into the pie tin of your choice.

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Carefully transfer it to an individual pie tin. This step must be done as quickly as possible; the dough tends to crack.

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Pre-heat the oven to 180˚C, poke the dough all over with a fork, place a sheet of butter paper on top of each pastry-lined tin and fill 1/4 way up the sides with raw kidney beans. Bake for 25–30 minutes.

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Remove the pie shells from the oven and allow them to cool completely. Trim the excess pastry from the rims, if any. Turn the oven down to 120˚C.

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Place all the ingredients for the filling into a mixing bowl and gently fold together with a spatula until fully combined. Remove any bubbles that remain on the surface with a spoon. Strain through a fine sieve.

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Return the pie shells to the oven for two minutes. Fill each shell to the top with the filling mixture and bake for 30 minutes.

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Remove the pies from the oven and cool at room temperature. Dust each pie liberally with demerara sugar. You could even use regular granulated sugar.

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Caramelise the top evenly with a blow torch. Allow the sugar topping to cool before serving. If you do not have a blow torch, you could simply skip this step.

DECEMBER 2012

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Press the dough into the edges and leave a bit of excess dough around the rim (the dough will shrink as it bakes). Repeat this process for as many individual pies as required. Refrigerate for an hour.

BBC GoodFood 139

masterclass diy

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Homemade Marshmallows

Marshmallows Makes 50 n 1 hour 10 minutes n A LITTLE EFFORT icing sugar 50g (try Bluebird available at gourmet stores) corn flour 50g gelatine 36g granulated sugar 450g liquid glucose or corn syrup 1 tbsp (available at select stores selling bakery items) egg whites 2 large vanilla extract 1 tsp blackberries 140g (try Ocean Spray available at gourmet stores) n In a bowl, mix the icing sugar with the corn flour and set aside. Dissolve the gelatine in 150ml hot water in a

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heatproof jug. Line a 20cm x 30cm tin with baking parchment and dust with some of the icing sugar mix. Put the granulated sugar and liquid glucose or corn syrup in a heavy-bottomed pan with 200ml water. Cook over a low heat until the sugar has dissolved completely, turn up the heat and boil until the mixture reaches firm ball stage on a sugar thermometer (125°C), around 10-15 minutes. If you don’t have a thermometer, drop a little of the mix into a glass of very cold water — if it sets into a squidgy ball, it’s ready. While the sugar is boiling, use an electric whisk to beat the egg whites until stiff. When the syrup reaches the right stage, pour it into the jug with the gelatine water; be careful as it will be very hot and may bubble up. n Continue whisking the egg whites while pouring on the syrup in a steady stream, then adding the vanilla extract – the mixture will go shiny and start to thicken. Continue whisking for about 10 minutes until very stiff. If you find the electric whisk is unable to withstand the stiffness, you could switch to doing it manually. Pour half the egg white mixture into the tin, and then scatter over the berries. Top with the remaining mixture and leave somewhere cool and dry to set for at least 2 hours until firm. n Lay a large sheet of baking parchment on a chopping board and sprinkle on the remaining icing sugar mix. Turn the marshmallows out and cut into squares, rolling them in the sugar mix. Keep in an airtight container but best eaten on the same day. n PER SERVING 46 kcals, protein none, carbs 12g, fat none, sat fat none, fibre none, sugar 11g, salt 0.01g

Recipe NATASHA LEE Photograph LIS PARSONS Styling LISA HARRISON Food styling SILVANA FRANCO

These delish homemade marshmallows make a standout festive gift

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T

o educate, appreciate and understand artthat was our singular aim with GoodHomes for Art, a public art initiative. Art has always been cloistered behind the closed doors of galleries, assumed to be the prerogative of the cocktail circuit. With GoodHomes for Art, we’re attempting to take art out of the galleries to as many people as possible. Our idea gained form and grew into an endeavour that caught the interest and attention of artists Brinda Miller, Jaideep Mehrotra and Arzan Khambatta, who then extended their wholehearted support to the initiative and guided us through the delicate nuances of the art world.

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WorldMags.net 1 1. (L - R) Artist Viveek Sharma, Vishweshwar Raj Singh, General Manager, Trident, Bandra Kurla, Mumbai; Tarun Rai, CEO, Worldwide Media; Artist Jaideep Mehrotra, Artist Brinda Miller, Sculptor Arzan Khambatta, Ronitaa Italia-Dhanu, Editor, GoodHomes India magazine; Nisha JamVwal, Artist Jehangir Jani. 2. Artist Lalitha Lajmi 3. Khushnuma & Arzan Khambatta 4. Painting by Artist Sujata Achrekar 5. Installation by Dileep Sharma 6. Berty Tarrab, MD, Bulthaup, with Vilde and Lutz Kothe of Volkswagen 7. Kavita & Nicholai Sachdev 8. Actress Hazel Keech 9. Tarun Rai, CEO, Worldwide Media 10. Rajiv Kaul of The Leela Palaces, Hotels & Resorts 11. Vikram Raizada of Tara Jewels Ltd. 12. Mitali Bajaj of Dr Art + Design 13. Artist Kahini Arte-Merchant 14. Vasant Bhandari of UB Group 15. Ad Man Prahlad Kakar with Ronitaa ItaliaDhanu, Editor, GoodHomes India magazine 16. Fashion Designer Pria Kataria-Puri

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On October 23, 2012, we announced the launch of GoodHomes for Art at Trident, Bandra Kurla, Mumbai over a press conference that rolled into a spectacular evening of art, installations and artistic expression. The launch witnessed the coming together of eminent artists, gallerists, architects, corporates aficionados and art enthusiasts. The art show featured works of noted artists like Lalitha Lajmi, while guests like Prahlad Kakar, Kahini Arte-Merchant, Pria Kataria Puri, Nisha JamVwal, Sunil Padwal and Kalpana Lajmi graced the occasion with their presence and support. The Trident, Bandra Kurla, Mumbai, Ballroom metamorphosed into a vibrant gallery space for the evening. On display were paintings, sculptures, installations and even digital and interactive art. The evening culminated with the promise to celebrate art for art’s sake.

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WorldMags.net 16. Art conversations with Mithu Basu of Dolna and Artist Sukriti Grover at Vinoteca by SULA. 17. Annabel D’souza stands with her artwork at Ebony Gautier, Malad, 18. Sabena Khattar, Vice President , HR, Worldwide Media and Ronitaa Italia-Dhanu, Editor, GoodHomes India magazine at the Live Painting Workshop at Gallery Pradarshak. 19. Student danseuse of Nrîtya Sharada Bharatanatya Kala Mandir at Dancescapes organised by Dolna at Rachana Sansad Academy of Fine Arts & Crafts. 20. Sculpture by Artist Jehangir Jani. 21. Gallerist Vibhuraj Kapoor, Artist Prabhakar Kolte & Sculptor Arzan Khambatta addressing students at Gallery Beyond. 22. Artist Nilofer Suleman with a fan at Art Musings. 23. (L-R) Ronitaa Italia-Dhanu, Editor, GoodHomes India magazine, Artist Ram Indranil Kamath, Nisha JamVwal, Artist Devaki Singh, Actor Luke Kenny, Anurag Kanoria, Owner, The Great Eastern Home with Sculptor Arzan Khambatta 24. Parvez Damania 25. Vasant Bhandari of UB Group 26. Dalip Tahil 27. Mr. & Mrs. Brijesh Singh, Joint Commissioner, Traffic 28. Nisha JamVwal. 29. Guests at the cocktail evening at The Great Eastern Home 30. Kainaz Daver of Trident, Bandra Kurla, Mumbai. 31. Shalini Manglani with Ronitaa Italia-Dhanu, Editor, GoodHomes India magazine.

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The launch of GoodHomes for Art flagged off a weeklong calendar of events and live activities across Mumbai, from October 29 to November 04, 2012. There were openings, displays, studentartist interactions, exhibitions, tutored workshops, seminars and interactive gatherings, all 28 earmarked with the sole focus of making art accessible to real people, affording them the choice to bring it home with them.

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32. Artist Viveek Sharma poses with his canvas at the Live Painting session held at Phoenix Mills, Lower Parel, Mumbai. 33-37. As the evening progressed, children and adults alike joined in.

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SUPPORT:

The Great Eastern Home | AA Living | Edible Arrangements

PARTICIPATING VENUES:

The Great Eastern Home | Anemos | Artists’ Centre | Bonobo | The Art Loft | Ebony Gautier Mumbai (Infiniti Mall, Malad) | High Street Phoenix | Temperance | Vinoteca By SULA

PARTICIPATING INSTITUTIONS

Nrîtya Sharada Bharatanatya Kala Mandir | Rachana Sansad Academy of Fine Arts & Crafts | Sir J.J. School Of Art | Sophia, Shree B.K. Somani Memorial Polytechnic

PARTICIPATING GALLERIES:

The Art Musings | Dolna | Gallery Art & Soul | Gallery Beyond | Gallery 7 | Le Sutra Pradarshak | Sakshi Gallery | SansTache Art Gallery | Studio 3 | Tao Art Gallery | The Viewing Room

HOSPITALITY PARTNER

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BEVERAGE PARTNER

SUPPORT PARTNER

VENUE PARTNER

Party Wines

Rohan Jelkie picks the perfect wines to go with your party dishes Rohan Jelkie is Senior Manager, Beverage Education and Training at Tulleeho!, India’s premium beverage consultancy organisation. An avid traveller and a trained wines and spirits educator, he has also conducted wine programmes in Sri Lanka and the Middle East.

DECEMBER 2012

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t’s that time of the year when the nip in the air brings the promise of good times to be spent with loved ones over scrumptious meals. And while you are at it, it wouldn’t hurt to choose some fine wines that suit the occasion and pair well with dishes that are typical of the season. The old adage — pairing red wines with red meats and white wines with white meat has been quite successfully put to rest. But the idea behind this old thumb rule has a fair scientific explanation. High-protein foods work well with wines that have tannins while foods with softer concentrations of protein work better with whites. Another very important thing to understand is that different dishes have different intensities of flavour depending on the way they are cooked. Grilled chicken will have a more intense flavour owing to the smoke, loss of moisture and the marinade used as opposed to chicken cooked in a sauce or gravy. As is the case with pasta, the sauce is always accountable for the flavour. And do remember that your favourite dessert this Christmas will only merit a sweet wine. Fruity flavours in wine typically don’t mean that a wine is sweet. Think honey when you think of a sweet wine. So if you like a fruity Merlot, it will work great in quelling the spice in a fiery dish rather than being killed with a piece of Christmas pudding.

O A IP E T RI E T IN G IN W AN W H RS C HI O W EF US

10-MINUTE WINE GUIDE

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WHITE

RED

Domaene Gobelsburg, Gruner Veltliner, 2009, Austria (` 2,385, available at the J W Marriott, Mumbai) Impressive with flavours of apple, apricot and nectarine, this wine goes well with fish Florentine.

Olivier Leflaive, Bourgogne Pinot Noir, 2006, France (` 3,235, available at Juben Wines, Mumbai) A brilliant redcurrant character on the nose and palate, this wine is perfect with your prized Christmas turkey!

Vicar’s Choice, Sauvignon Blanc, 2010, New Zealand (` 2,739, available at Juben Wines, Mumbai) Wonderfully balanced with a smooth body, crisp acidity, with peach, pear and apple flavours, this one is floral as well as herbaceous. Serve the wine by itself as an aperitif or with fish cakes.

La Brancaia TRE ‘Super Tuscan’, 2009, Italy (` 3,500, available at Ganpati Wines, DLF –V, Gurgaon) This is a delicate wine laced with crushed berries, flowers, spices and tobacco. This wine from Brancaia pairs well with spicy lamb chops.

Fresita Sparkling Wine, Chile (` 1,820, available at House of Spirits, Select Citywalk, Delhi) A blend of white grapes and strawberries, this wine has a deep salmon pink colour and notes of strawberries. Combine with spicy cold cuts or chilli prawns.

Domaine Lapalu, La Patache, Bordeaux (` 2,670, available at Juben Wines, Mumbai) Comprising intense aromas and rich tannins, this wine has a good structure. Works well with spicy mutton kebabs or good ol’ rogan josh.

St. Urbans–Hof, Riesling QBA, 2010, Germany (` 2,845, available at Godrej Nature’s Basket outlets nationwide) This one has intense herbal notes and firm flavours of white peach and orange zest, while gooseberry and slate accents linger on the finish. Try with pork vindaloo or spicy Mexican wraps.

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SWEET Zonin, Asti DOCG, Dolce, Italy (` 1,950, available at Godrej Nature’s Basket outlets nationwide) Sweet, fresh, balanced and not too cloying, this one is fruity and satisfyingly persistent. It tastes great with baked Christmas desserts.

BBC GoodFood 147

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STARTERS, SNACKS AND SOUP T T T T 104 Cannellini bean and roasted pumpkin salad with basil dressing T T T T 106 Carrot salad with chickpeas and lemon T T T T 108 Crab crostini T T T T 108 Chicken and melon rice paper rolls T T T T 78 Dijon and honeyglazed chicken and watercress salad T T T T 108 Fig and goat’s cheese puffs T T T T 86 Keema pattice T T T T 66 Kongunaatu Kozhi rasam (chicken rasam) T T T T 108 Little prawn poppadoms T T T T 130 Mini pancetta filo pies T T T T 106 Peas and mint soup T T T T 104 Pizza pockets T T T T 132 Sautéed prawns and palm heart salad T T T T 108 Spicy spinach cakes with mint yoghurt T T T T 74 Vegetable minestrone T T T T 44 Warm quinoa and feta salad MAINS EGG T T T T 66 T T T T 90 T T T T 70

Meat T T T T 86 T T T T 44

T T T T 72 T T T T 68 T T T T 106

Brunch burritos Kanda papeta par eedu Sweet potato, pea and feta frittata

Aleti paleti Beef stir fry with broccoli and oyster sauce Chorizo and spinach one pot Linguine with spicy meatball sauce Moroccan lamb stew

T T T T 104

T T T T 98 T T T T 98 T T T T 111 T T T T 132

T T T T 44

Jardaloo ma murghi Roast chicken with bacon stuffing

150 BBC GoodFood

Spicy chicken and veg stir fry

Fish & seafood T T T T 88 Dhan dar patio T T T T 74 Ginger salmon with garlic pok choy T T T T 76 Linguine with prawns, spring greens and chilli T T T T 44 Prawn chow mein T T T T 132 Red snapper vindaye with threecoloured peppers Vegetarian T T T T 82 T T T T 106 T T T T 80

Poultry T T T T 90 T T T T 96

T VEGETARIAN T READY UNDER 30 MINUTES T LOW FAT

T T T T 84 T T T T 76

T T T T 68

T T T 44 T T T T 82

T T T T 80

T T T T 78 Aubergine and tomato grill Fragrant basmati and almond pulao Microwave pumpkin risotto Nice ‘n’ spicy savoury rice Parmesan and

T T T T 104

hazelnut stuffed mushrooms with pesto dressing Pumpkin, mushroom and rice bowls Stir fried greens in oyster sauce Store cupboard spaghetti puttanesca Sweet potatoes with mushrooms and rosemary Tuscan bean and barley stew Winter greens with pine nuts, chilli and garlic

SIDES & SAUCES T T T T 96 Buttered bay and thyme carrots T T T T 99 Green beans with

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shallots, garlic and toasted almonds Olive oil potato roasties with rosemary Perfect potato rosties Spiced berry syrup Strawberry sauce Tangy tomato and pineapple chutney

DESSERTS, BREAKFASTS & BAKING T T T T 98 Chocolate pudding 16 Christmas cookies T T T T 134 Exotic fruit cannelloni T T T T 111 Fromage frais mousse T T T T 140 Homemade marshmallows T T T T 138 Key lime pie T T T T 92 Lagan nu custard T T T T 42 Snowman Xmas cake T T T T 106 Strawberry hazelnut tart T T T T 112 Strawberry and Pimm’s jelly T T T T 112 Strawberry mallow cheesecake T T T T 116 Strawberry trifle T T T T 117 White chocolate and strawberry marquise JAIN T T 63 Chocolate kaju laddoo T T T T 70 Mexican salad with tortilla croutons T T T T 62 Roasted hazelnut shortbread T T T T 106 Spiced warm flatbreads T T T T 114 Strawberry crème fraiche ice cream T T T T 110 Strawberry and mascarpone cheesecake tart DRINKS T T T T 64 T T T T 48 T T T T 64 T T T T 96 T T T T 64

Champagne jelly shots Frosty bison Ginger Champagne cocktail Mulled wine cocktail Raspberry martini fizz DECEMBER 2012

Photograph PHILIP WEBB

Recipe index

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Shop talk AHMEDABAD Organic Haus Oriental House, S V Kinariwala Road, Law Garden Tel: +91 79 26445593 BENGALURU Foodhall MG Mall, Trinity Ulsoor Foodworld Gourmet 301, Gottigere village, Uttarahalli village, Bannerghatta Main Road Tel: +91 80 32466586 Gourmet – Food World No 88, Shariff Bhatia Towers, MG Road Tel: +91 80 41474789 Nature’s Basket #755, 80 Feet Road, 4th Block, Next to Costa Coffee, Koramangala Tel: +91 80 41317401 Sorbet – The gourmet food store No 287, Varthur Road, Siddapura, Whitefield Tel: +91 80 28543245 CHENNAI Amma Nana Chamiers Road, opp Park Sheraton Hotel, Nandanam Tel: +91 44 24350596 Mercado No 64, Rukmani Road, Kalakshetra Colony, Besant Nagar Tel: +91 44 28173965 Nuts ‘n’ Spices New no. 75, Mahatma Gandhi Road, Nungambakkam Tel: +91 44 28268180, 42039351 HYDERABAD Nature’s Basket Urmila Towers, Road No. 10, Opp. Rainbow Hospital, Banjara Hills Tel: +91 40 23355399 NEW DELHI A- Mart A-1, Mahipalpur Extension, NH-8 Tel: +91 11 26789999 Ahuja Vegetable Store Shop no.- 37, INA Market Tel: +91 11 24644116 Allied Fruits and Florists 58-B, Khan Market, Lodhi Road Tel: +91 11 24642509 Ashok General Store 113, Main Market, Opposite Dilli Haat, INA Market Tel: +91 11 24617561 Dubden Green 4-A, Near Electric Sub Station, Shahpur Jat Tel: +91 11 32905310, +91 9810131343 DECEMBER 2012

Where to find everything from strawberries to shiitake mushrooms

Flanders Dairy – The Cheese Ball 31 Mehr Chand Market, Lodhi Road Tel: +91 11 24653789 Fortune Gourmet 144/9, Ground Floor, Kishangarh, Vasant Kunj Tel: +91 11 65642270/ 9868899956 Gogia’s 280, Main road, INA Market Tel: +91 11 24624809/ 24644618 INA Market Aurobindo Marg, INA Colony, Opposite Dilli Haat Le Marche  58, Basant Lok, Vasant Vihar, Near Priya Cinema Tel: +91 11 43232100/41669111 Master’s Bakers G-33, Usha Chambers, Community Centre, Ashok Vihar Tel: +91 11 27419061/ 27430734 Modern Bazaar 18-B, Community Centre, Basant Lok, Vasant Vihar Tel: +91 11 41669777 Nature’s Basket Ground floor, D /15, Between BP Petrol Pump and Defence Colony Flyover Tel: +91 11 46698777 46, Basant Lok, Vasant Vihar, Ground floor & basement Tel: +91 11 40571919

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Palkit Impex C-82, Basement, Shivalik, Malviya Nagar. Tel: +91 11 26673437 Passion Cheese Select Citywalk Mall, District Centre, Saket Tel: +91 11 40599916 Pigpo 9 Jor Bagh Market Tel: +91 11 24611723/ 24626930 Steak House 13/8 Jor Bagh Market Tel: +91 11 24611008/ 24611129 The French Farmer Tel: Call Roger Langbour +91 9810166196, +91 11 26359701 Yamato Ya –The Japanese Store B-6/9, Safdarjung Enclave, Near Deer Park Tel: +91 11 41650164 GURGAON Kim’s Mart DT Mega Mall, LG 36, Gurgaon Tel: +91 124 2562189 Nature’s Basket S-201, 2nd Floor, Ambience Mall, Ambience Island, NH-8 Tel: +91 124 4665753 KOLKATA Afraa Deli City Centre, Salt Lake Tel: +91 33 23581111

Gourmet Gallery 27/9C, Chandi Ghosh Road, Regent Park Tel: +91 33 23818510 MUMBAI Country of Origin Maneesha Building, 69/A, Napean Sea Road, Malabar Hill Tel: +91 22 23642221 Dolce Vita Ground Floor, Grand Galleria, High Street Phoenix, Phoenix Mills, Lower Parel Tel: +91 22 24964307 Food Bazaar Infinity Mall, Raheja Classic, New Link Road, Andheri (W) Tel: +91 22 67583090 Foodhall Palladium, High Street Phoenix, Senapati Bapat Marg, Lower Parel Tel: +91 22 30264581 Gourmet West Westside, Army and Navy Building, 148 MG Road, Kala Ghoda Tel: +91 22 66360499 Hypercity Ground Floor, Malad (W) Tel: +91 22 40501300 Lallu & brothers Shop no 1&2, Pali Market, Pali Hill Road, Pali Hill, Bandra (W) Tel: +91 22 26409295 Nature’s Basket 227, Samarth Vaibhav Building, Opposite Tarapur Towers, Adarsh Nagar, Lokhandwala, Andheri (W) Tel: +91 22 26300766 Shop No 4, BG-India , Hiranandani Gardens, Powai Tel: +91 22 25707706 2-5 Parul Apartment, Juhu Tara Road, Juhu Tel: +91 22 26117893 133, Hill Road, Bandra (W) Tel: +91 22 26425050 Opp. Mahalaxmi Temple , Warden Road, Mahalaxmi Tel: +91 22 23526775

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Patel stores Near Mehboob Studio, Krishnachandra Marg, Bandra (W) Tel: +91 22 26558909 Ratna stores Haware Parekh, Sion-Trombay Road, Opposite Union Park, Chembur Tel: +91 22 25203389 Regal Plus 1, Lourdes Haven, 10/A, Pali Naka, Bandra (W) Tel: + 91 22 26041204/ 26041208/ 26465070

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Reliance Fresh Crystal Paradise Mall, DuttaJi Salavi Road, Off Veera Desai Road, Opposite Janaki Centre, Link Road, Andheri (W) Tel: +91 22 26743750 Framroze Court, Phalke Road, Dadar (E) Tel: +91 22 24155017 Santé Shop Number 1, Sahina Apartments, Pali Market, Bandra (W) Tel: +91 22 40060020 Spencer’s Hyper Market 1406A/28A, Malad (W) Tel: +91 22 42686130 Tutto Bene Delicatessen Spencer’s Hyper Market, Ground Floor, Located in Inorbit Mall, Malad (W) Tel: +91 9823485988

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PUNE Dorabjee & Co Pvt Ltd B-1, Moledina Road, Camp Cantonment Tel: +91 20 26052883 Nature’s Basket Mansur Ali Tower, 3, Galaxy Society, Max Mueller Lane, Near AXIS Bank, Dhole Patil Road Tel: +91 20 26160540 Shop No. 155/1A, Kumar Crystal Aundh Tel: +91 20 25889530 Providore GF 104, Anand Park, Baner Road, Aundh Tel: +91 20 65601551 Tutto Bene Delicatessen Shop No 1, Princeton Flair, Lane No 8, Koregaon Park Tel: +91 20 66077193 Tutto Bene Delicatessen G 14 Sacred World Mall, Wanowrie Tel: +91 20 26806933

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Gourmet Websites Delicious Now www.deliciousnow.com Farm2kitchen www.farm2kitchen.com Foodesto www.foodesto.com Foodzig www.foodzig.com Gourmet Company www.gourmetco.in Houseproud www.houseproud.in Local Banya www.localbanya.com Olive Tree Trading www.olivetreetrading.com Pesca Fresh www.pescafresh.com Zansaar www.zansaar.com BBC GoodFood 151

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spotlight chetan bhagat

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My life on a plate

Chetan Bhagat Chetan Bhagat is the author of five bestselling novels, some of which have been turned into major Bollywood films — most famously, Five Point Someone was adapted for the big screen as 3 Idiots. He is also a motivational speaker. Here, Bhagat tells us about his love for mezze, Maroosh and MasterChef Australia

How often do you cook? Probably once or twice a week, although I’d love to cook more. Most prized kitchen tool you own? A lovely Samsung oven and my mixer would top the list.

pita bread and a main course that is healthy — probably fish or vegetables. For dessert, frozen yoghurt with fun toppings would be perfect. It’s the conversation that is more important than the food anyway. Your most loved restaurant in the world? I have problems picking favourites in a city so how do I choose the best in the world? The Il Lido Italian Canteen on Cottesloe beach in Perth, Australia may be the one I’d pick right now.

What’s your cooking style – relaxed and easy or kitchen Nazi? I am a very relaxed person, so that reflects in my kitchen style as well. I work more on intuition than on recipe books and improvise a lot.

If you had to spend a day with any one chef, who would it be? I’d say the guys who judge MasterChef Australia.

What’s the one dish you’ll never touch? Anything with beef in it, as I don’t eat beef.

If you had to open a restaurant, what kind of place would it be? I’d open something connected to my books. For instance, I want to open a 2 States café one day, with food from two different states of India.

Your dream party guest list includes… All my close friends, and lots of beautiful people like Mark Zuckerberg and Katrina Kaif — of course most of my friends are beautiful people too. If you had to cook a romantic meal, what would be on the menu? I’d probably have a champagne cocktail like a Kir Royale. I’d also have a nice exotic salad, several dips and 154 BBC GoodFood

Pet peeve in a restaurant? When restaurants push expensive dishes on you, hidden costs in food and rude, arrogant service.

Photograph DAVID MUNNS

What is your earliest food memory? Discovering one of the most exciting food items when I was five — chewing gum! I was fascinated that something you could keep on chewing could exist.

There’s no better comfort food than bread for Chetan Bhagat

“I want to open a 2 States café one day, with food from two different states of India”

The dishes you love the most? I love Middle Eastern food — mezze is my favourite. Your idea of comfort food is… Bread. Just wonderful bread.

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A sudden surge of unexpected guests turn up at your house. What do you do? I call Maroosh in Bandra and ask them to deliver some dips and pita bread. Then once people are sufficiently drunk, we make egg bhurji and it tastes like a gourmet meal. Your guilty food pleasure? Chocolate. What is your signature dish? Splenda Mango Skimmed Milk Smoothies — nobody does them better than I do and they are healthy too. Your favourite food moment from a movie or book? The scene in When Harry Met Sally, where the old lady in the restaurant says “I’ll have what she’s having.” DECEMBER 2012

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