BBC Good Food 2017-05

85 May 2017

the

Potato peel crisps • Chicken schnitzel Caesar • Healthy mac ’n’ cheese • Rhubarb & ricotta pudding

green issue

recipes always work

Pea, broad bean & rocket risotto (chicken optional!)

Asparagus fries

& baconnaise Courgette, jalapeno

& feta nachos

+

Use-it-up meal plan

Slow-cooker

specıals Goan pulled pork,

Mexican lamb, Spanish chicken

Spring getaways

The Lakes, Devon, Scottish Isles, Yorkshire Easiest-ever Bank Holiday meals, plus…salted caramel cake!

bbcgoodfood.com

Weekend brunch for all the family

Moroccan veggie stew

Lamb with mint chutney

Have you tried poke cake?

£4.35

May 2017

spring recipes

‘Did you really throw away three whole bags of food every week?’ That was my question to Keith Kendrick, BBC Good Food’s new Head of Magazines, who was one of four writers to take our eco challenge this month. With three kids and a commitment to cooking from scratch, his reply proved the adage that, if you want something done, ask a busy person: ‘I spend weekends peeling veg for the kids’ weekday meals, plus they get through lots of fruit, leaving behind piles of skins and cores. But having challenged myself to cut down on what goes in the bin, we’re down to just two bags of unavoidable food waste – result. And after reading this month’s Test Kitchen tips (p136), I’m inspired to try composting – even though we live in a flat.’ Bar his baking disaster, Keith shows that caring about the environment can also improve your cooking. He’s inspired me to make cauliflower soup – stalks and all. Keith’s experience is part of our green issue, which makes reducing packaging and using leftovers easy and fun, with dozens of eco-friendly recipes. We’d love to hear about your ideas and victories on Twitter and Instagram (below). Don’t miss our next issue, out 1 June. It comes with a FREE 36-page healthy diet plan to ensure you’re eating at your healthiest this summer.

Christine Hayes, Editor-in-chief

share your eco triumphs

Subscribe this month and save 23%, plus receive two bonus gifts. Turn to page 82 for this exclusive offer. Subscribers also get great savings on reader offers, Good Food events, travel and live shows.

Save 20% on Show tickets See page 116 for details, and use code GFR6 to claim your discount (T&Cs apply). KEEP IN TOUCH Call 020 7150 5022 (Mon-Fri 9.30am-5.30pm) Email hello@bbcgood foodmagazine.com Write to us at the addresses on page 153 Visit bbcgoodfood.com Follow facebook.com/ bbcgoodfood, Instagram and Twitter @bbcgoodfood

Post your your eco ideas to #gfGREENissue. And if you need help keeping your waste to a minimum, and advice about how to use up leftovers, take a photo of your storecupboard or fridge shelf, post it to #shel ie and let the Good Food team help you decide what to make.

Star contributors this issue Joe Wicks Our itness guru’s Cajun chicken is quick and easy to make, packs a spicy punch and is loaded with muscle-building protein (p102). Joe is cooking live at the BBC Good Food Show Summer at Birmingham NEC (15 18 June); see p116 for details.

John Torode This month, the BBC MasterChef judge works wonders with leftover chicken and rice, adding prawns and chorizo to create a special Friday night treat (p66).

Lulu Grimes Our Hub director says: ‘Our Test Kitchen is as green as possible. We recycle, compost and use every scrap we can – all the recipes we test are devoured, and any leftover ingredients are used up by the team.’

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Why you can trust BBC Good Food is the UK’s No 1 food lifestyle media brand. We are passionate about food and cooking. While recipes are at the heart of what we do, we are committed to helping you to have the best food experience you can, whether you are shopping for food, in your kitchen or eating out in the UK or abroad. This is what we promise… Biggest and best We’re proud to be Britain’s biggest-selling food magazine and the UK’s No 1 food website, bbcgoodfood.com. Our contributors – BBC chefs, our in-house cookery team and con ident, outspoken columnists – are experts in their ields. Meet us at the UK’s biggest food shows (visit bbcgoodfoodshow.com for dates and details). Our best-selling cookery books feature our trusted recipes – you’ll ind these in bookshops. Recipes for everyone There are 70 new recipes in every issue – that’s more than any other food magazine in Britain. We always include quick, easy dishes, ideas for relaxed entertaining, and more challenging recipes for when you want to take your skills up a notch. Look out for our regular easiest-ever recipes. Tested and trusted We triple-test all our recipes, so they’ll work irst time for you (once by the writer or chef, once or twice in the Good Food Test Kitchen, and again on the photo shoot). We put our gadgets through a rigorous testing process and carry out our taste tests fairly. Our restaurant and travel recommendations have all been tried by one of us. Ethical and altruistic We care about the food we eat, the people who produce it and the effect this has on the world. In our Test Kitchen, we use humanely reared British meats, free-range chicken and eggs, and sustainable ish wherever possible. We aim to help you avoid food waste with advice on using leftovers (tune in to Facebook Live to see our #Fridayfood challenge, when we use up Test Kitchen leftovers). Healthy eating Every recipe is analysed by our nutritional therapist, so you can be informed when you choose what to eat. We lag up vegan, vegetarian and gluten-free recipes. Find out more about our health philosophy on page 150. Families and children Families can need help to create harmonious mealtimes, so we address this by lagging up ‘family’ recipes. We encourage children and teenagers to get cooking with recipes that help them to learn new skills. Find out more at bbcgoodfood.com/recipes/category/family-kids. Eating like a local One of the joys of travel – across the UK and overseas – is discovering great food. Our features are written from an insider perspective by on-theground writers and food and travel journalists. Independent and respected As you’d expect from a BBC brand, we are impartial and independent, so you can trust our advice and recommendations on everything from restaurants and wine to kitchen gadgets and more. We encourage your input on your local inds, and appreciate your feedback on our recommendations. Food is our passion and pleasure We take food seriously, but we also believe it’s a pleasure to be enjoyed and celebrated, whether cooking for the family, trying an unfamiliar ingredient, choosing wine, buying new products or eating out. We share our food discoveries and adventures with you – and love you to share the same with us daily on Facebook, Twitter, Instagram and Snapchat.

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May 2017

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INTRODUCING… A quick gluten-free

19

HOW GREEN CAN YOU GO? Our four

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36 44 56 62 66 68 74

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lunch, plus trends and cookbooks COCKTAIL HOUR

Upcycled white Russian

volunteers discover just what it takes to follow an eco-friendly lifestyle FOOD ISSUES Joanna Blythman shares her tips for a greener kitchen RESTAURANT REVIEW Sustainable seafood at Gamba in Glasgow HOW WE EAT NOW Emma Freud’s favourite ways to use up leftover booze, including a white Russian tart THE NEW DRINK RULES Victoria Moore champions wine boxes over bottles as the sustainable option

SEASON’S BEST From peas to broad

beans and nettles, this is a bumper month for great British produce USE IT ALL MEAL PLAN Smart, tasty recipes with next to nothing wasted TOM KERRIDGE The BBC chef’s favourite chicken dishes STAR INGREDIENT Diana Henry works wonders with versatile rhubarb MASTERCHEF MAKEOVER

John Torode’s Friday night rice THIS MONTH’S MENU A spring meal for four from London’s Carousel FAMILY BRUNCH Egg- and dairy-free recipes the kids can help to make

MIDWEEK MEALS Easiest-ever

vegetarian dishes for busy evenings QUICK FIXES Four super-simple dips for crisps, pittas and veggie sticks NEW FOOD TALENT Romilly Newman’s vegetarian Moroccan stew SLOW COOKER SPECIALS Hassle-free suppers made for entertaining

MAKE OUR COVER RECIPE, p38

this month’s recipe index

Recipe Barney Desmazery Photograph Stuart Ovenden Food styling Jennifer Joyce Styling Sarah Birks

COOK THE COVER & SHARE YOUR PHOTOS #bbcgoodfood #cookthecover

HOW TO CONTACT US Subscription enquiries 01795 414754, [email protected] Website enquiries 020 8433 1430, [email protected] Reader offer enquiries 020 7150 5358, [email protected] BBC GOOD FOOD SHOWS For tickets 0844 581 1354 General Show enquiries 020 3405 4286

BEST OF THE BBC EAT WELL FOR LESS Noodle pot, p7

Season’s best

Courgette, jalapeño & feta nachos, plus lots more new spring ideas

TOM KERRIDGE Spring chicken, p56 JOHN TORODE MasterChef makeover, p66

reader offers Join the Good Food Great savings on a Wine Club for big smart automatic ice discounts, p100 cream maker, p152

Book onto a fully escorted European river cruise, p115

Hot summer deals on a pizza oven and wine cooler, p120

PLUS Join us for an exclusive lunch at José Pizarro at Broadgate Circle, p73

102 104 105 106 110

118 121 123

125 128

JOE WICKS The fitness coach’s

protein-packed Cajun chicken DINNER DASH Three speedy suppers using seasonal asparagus HEALTHY DIET PLAN Skinny mac ‘n’ cheese with three of your 5-a-day HEALTHY SANDWICHES Lunchtime favourites packed full of goodness EASY FERMENTATION Rosie Birkett’s recipes promoting good gut health

MY LIFE ON A PLATE Kirstie

Allsopp’s favourite family meals SHARE YOUR RECIPES

Salted caramel poke cake FOOD AND FARMING AWARDS An

innovative online farmers’ market

GREEN TRAVEL Take a sustainable

break in foodie Amsterdam INSIDER The best places to eat and drink in trendy Brighton

130

SIX QUICK TRIPS Green family

135

MASTERCLASS Step-by-step Indian

82 99 116 144 151 153 154

BBC GOOD FOOD SUBSCRIBER

holidays in the UK and France

street snack pani puri, expert tips, plus pressure cookers on test and essential kit for composting

OFFERS Exclusive discounts COMING NEXT MONTH

Sneak preview of our next issue DON’T MISS BBC GOOD FOOD SHOWS

Book now for great savings CLASSIFIED ADVERTISEMENTS RECIPE INDEX Plus how to get

the best from our recipes READER FEEDBACK

Share your views and photos LAST BITE A classic chocolate chip cookie recipe, plus three irresistible flavour twists

MAY 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 5

News, trends, buys, events and the best of the BBC this month

Recipe photograph WILL HEAP | Food styling SARA BUENFELD | Styling SARAH BIRKS

edited by ELAINE STOCKS

EAT WELL FOR LESS

Spring in a jar In the new series of Eat Well for Less on BBC One, Gregg Wallace and Chris Bavin want to come up with a quick and easy gluten-free lunch option, so they challenged the Allison family to create a healthy noodle dish in a jar. The end result is ideal for taking to work, as all you need to do is add boiling water. It’s packed with fresh, seasonal ingredients – courgettes, carrots, petit pois and spinach – zinged up by the addition of Asian flavourings, such as soy sauce, ginger, chilli and lime. It’s a perfect, healthy solo lunch for when you’re on the go.

Turn the page for our recipe

MAY 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 7

TRENDING

Homemade noodle pot Ready in just 15 minutes, this no-fuss meal for one will become a solo staple. To vary the flavour, add a teaspoon of curry powder or half a teaspoon of Thai red curry paste. SERVES 1 PREP 5 mins plus soaking NO COOK

Zero-waste menus

Use a large heatproof jar if you have one. If not, use a medium heatproof bowl. Put the noodles in the bottom of the jar, then add all the other ingredients except the lime. Pour over enough boiling water to just cover the ingredients – about 300ml. Cover with a lid or cling film and leave to soak for 10 mins, then stir in the lime zest, juice and some seasoning. Serve immediately. GOOD TO KNOW low fat • low cal • folate • ibre • vit c • 2 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING energy 309 kcals • fat 4g • saturates 1g • carbs 49g • sugars 8g • ibre 7g • protein 15g • salt 1.8g

Drinks in a can More widely recycled than plastic bottles, drinks irms are using aluminium cans instead. CanO Water (canowater.com) has proved popular.

ON OUR RADAR

Fuel for School Two years ago, Nathan Atkinson, headteacher at Richmond Hill primary school in Leeds, realised that many pupils were having trouble concentrating because they hadn’t eaten breakfast. So he approached The Real Junk Food Project (therealjunkfoodproject. org), which diverts food destined for waste, and persuaded them to supply the school. Fuel for School (fuelforschool.info) was born and now each of his 630 pupils gets a

Community fridges breakfast of toast and a drink every day. Since then, the scheme has been taken up at more than 50 schools. ‘We knew that a vast amount of perfectly edible food was being wasted’, says Nathan. ‘Our project is currently enriching the lives of 12,000 primary school children every week.’ As well as providing breakfasts and food education packs, Fuel for School operates a market stall where parents can ‘pay as they feel’ for produce. Clare Hargreaves

£ COMPOST BINS £

Skinted

Minted

OXO Good Grips compost bin, £11.93, amazon.co.uk With a 2.8-litre capacity, this is ideal for smaller households and will it neatly on a worktop. The removable lid makes emptying easier and the bin itself is dishwasher safe. There’s also a handle for carrying.

Joseph Joseph Stack 4 Food Waste Caddy, £30, josephjoseph.com This food waste caddy features an odour ilter that allows air to enter and circulate inside, reducing moisture and, in turn, eliminating odours. It’s easy to clean and carry, and with a 4-litre capacity, you won’t need to empty it every day.

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Last year, a community fridge was launched in Somerset so that waste food could go to those in need. Now The People’s Fridge (facebook. com/peoplesfridge) has been set up in Brixton, London.

barometer Pre-prepared veg While it might save time, it’s more expensive, less nutritious and goes off quicker than unprepared veg – not to mention all the extra packaging!

Plastic packaging Down with plastic! Unilever (which owns Knorr, Hellmann’s and more) has vowed to make all its plastic recyclable by 2030.

Haddock According to the Marine Conservation Society, haddock is no longer one of the most sustainable ish choices, after numbers in our seas have dwindled. Try pollock or coley instead.

DESCENDING

Recipe GREGG WALLACE | Barometer and shopping ANNA LAWSON Photographs GETTY, DORLING KINDERSLEY ALAMY STOCKPHOTO

40g nest dried vermicelli rice noodles, broken in half tsp gluten-free yeast extract 1 2 tsp gluten-free soy sauce 1 /2-1 red chilli (depending on how hot you like it), inely chopped 1 tsp ginger, peeled and inely chopped 1 /4 small courgette, thinly sliced 1 small carrot, sliced into ribbons with a vegetable peeler 25g frozen petit pois, defrosted 25g cooked gammon, shredded 25g baby spinach leaves, roughly chopped lime, zested and juiced

Chef Skye Gyngell is running a three-course menu designed to combat food waste at her restaurant, Spring (17 21 May).

Recipe photograph TOM REGESTER | Food styling SOPHIE GODWIN | Styling FAYE WEARS

update news & trends

ZERO WASTE SNACKS

Potato peel crisps Here’s a way to make crisps seem a little virtuous. Make your own at home with what we often see as food waste – potato peelings. Drizzle the peelings with a little oil and toss in your favourite herbs and spices, or sprinkle with sea salt and malt vinegar. Roast in a hot oven (200C/180C fan/gas 6) for 25-30 mins and these scraps will become your snacking saviour. MAY 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 9

INTRODUCING

Planet-friendly raw chocolate

Raw chocolate truffles MAKES 12 small truffles PREP 10 mins plus at least 2 hrs setting COOK 5 mins EASY

3 tbsp raw cacao butter (available from Holland & Barrett) 3 tbsp coconut oil 5 tbsp raw cacao powder 2 tbsp maple syrup few drops of vanilla extract

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Where to find it? Visit the Raw Chocolate Company (therawchocolatecompany.com) and Ombar (ombar.co.uk) for more flavours than you can shake a stick at. Whole Foods also has a great selection of raw chocolate, as do most health stores. Or why not make your own at home? Sophie Godwin

hazelnuts and sour cherries or pistachios and freeze-dried raspberries, to ill

1 In a saucepan, heat the cacao butter, coconut oil, cacao powder, maple syrup, vanilla extract and a pinch of sea salt very gently until just melted, but not hot, whisking to remove any lumps. Use a thermometer if you can – try not to heat the mixture above

45C so it retains its nutritional properties. 2 Transfer to a jug, then pour into a 12-hole small silicone truffle mould or silicone ice cube tray, and add your chosen filling to each while the chocolate is still soft. Leave to set for at least 2 hrs, then pop out to serve. Will keep for up to five days. GOOD TO KNOW vegan • gluten free PER SERVING energy 90 kcals • fat 8g • saturates 5g • carbs 3g • sugars 2g • ibre 1g • protein 1g • salt none

JOEYSCOOKING Recipe photograph TOM REGESTER | Food styling SOPHIE GODWIN | Styling FAYE WEARS

Why it’s on-trend Raw chocolate ticks all the boxes. It is higher in vitamins and antioxidants than normal chocolate, as the cacao beans are left unroasted. It’s made with no artificial sugar, is environmentally friendly (it requires less energy to produce), and is often organic and

Fairtrade. And wait, there are more reasons – it’s dark, decadent and delicious!

Recipe JOEY O’HARE

We all know a square or two of dark chocolate is good for us, and now, if you switch to raw chocolate, you can have double the satisfaction.

update news & trends

Books for cooks The Midlife Kitchen by Mimi Spencer & Sam Rice (£25, Mitchell Beazley) In your forties and ifties, health becomes more of a priority as your body changes – the perfect time to overhaul your diet to maintain a healthy heart, bones, skin and brain. In this book, rather than focusing on fads or fasting, the vibrant recipes champion a balanced diet with less sugar, better fat and good carbs. Our must-try recipe Crispy trout with Asian salsa.

OUR LOCAL HEROES

Mark and Shauna Froydenlund Great British Menu 2016 champion Mark Froydenlund and wife Shauna are joint chef-patrons at Marcus Wareing’s two-Michelin-starred restaurant at The Berkeley Hotel (marcuswareing.com)

There are so many fantastic food suppliers in London. Three that are a major part of the London food scene are The London Honey company (thelondonhoneycompany. co.uk), La Fromagerie cheese shop (lafromagerie. co.uk), and fresh fruit and vegetable supplier Natoora (natoora.co.uk).

We’ve spent some great mornings at the Spa Terminus (spa-terminus.co.uk), a collection of producers under the railway arches in Bermondsey. They open their doors to retail trade most weekends, giving home cooks access to top-class restaurant suppliers.

The West Hampstead Farmers’ Market on Saturdays is great for fresh fruit, veg, meat and artisan bread. There’s also a fantastic ishmonger called Coastline Galicia not far

away in Abbey Road. They always have a brilliant selection of fresh seafood. We love the street food trend, so on our time off, instead of visiting a restaurant, we wander round Camden’s street food market Kerb (kerbfood.com). You can’t beat inishing off with an ice cream from Chin Chin Labs (chinchinlabs.com).

A fine place to spend a lazy Sunday afternoon is Ginger & White (gingerandwhite. com) in Hampstead. It’s a fantastic café with a great brunch, offering coffee and cakes.

Lambton & Jackson smoked salmon (lambtonandjackson.com) is a true artisan product, cured, smoked and sliced on Mersea Island, a stone’s throw from the home of Maldon salt and Colchester oysters, a wonderful corner of Essex and a top destination for food lovers.

Book reviews FIONA FORMAN

The perfect picnic wine If the weather’s nice enough for a Bank Holiday picnic, we have the wine for you. This Yarrunga Field Special Reserve 2016, from New South Wales in Australia, is bottled sunshine. It’s a blend of myriad grape varieties, paying tribute to the old ways of winemaking. There’s a tiny bit of oak in there, but mainly it’s all about zingy fresh

fruit and, with only a relatively modest 12% alcohol, it’s the perfect picnic wine to enjoy on a hot, sunny day. This wine is part of our great mixed case wine offer on page 100.

wine in partnership with L a i t hwa i t e’s

On the Side by Ed Smith (£20, Bloomsbury) Sides are often an afterthought, but food blogger Ed gives them star billing. Forget overcooked broccoli, here are 140 inspiring recipes for greens, vegetables, roots and pulses – think garlic oil pea shoots and spinach & preserved lemon freekeh. There’s a useful directory at the back pairing them with every main course imaginable. Our must-try recipe Grilled hispi cabbage with anchovy & crème fraîche. Oklava by Selin Kiazim (£25, Mitchell Beazley) Following on from the success of her restaurant in London’s Shoreditch, chef and restaurateur Selin shares her modern Turkish-Cypriot recipes to try at home. If you like traditional Turkish food – kebabs, houmous and fresh tomato & pomegranate salads – you’ll love this book. Some dishes are more complex, but worth the effort. Our must-try recipe Chilli-garlic glazed chicken with za’atar crumbs.

MAY 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 11

update news & trends TV EDITOR’S PICKS What’s cooking across BBC TV this month

Happy hour Miriam Nice uses spent coffee grounds to create a light coffee liqueur for the base of this White Russian-inspired cocktail

Upcycled White Russian MAKES 4 PREP 20 mins plus 24 hrs steeping EASY

CRÈME DE LA CRÈME Even if you know your dacquoise from your sfogliatelle, you can but marvel at these ever more baffling bakes. Host Angus Deayton and judges Benoit Blin and Cherish Finden continue to challenge teams of outstanding patissiers. Tuesdays at 8pm until 30 May on BBC Two.

Recipe photograph TOM REGESTER | Food styling SOPHIE GODWIN | Styling FAYE WEARS Crème de la Crème photograph BBC

MASTERCHEF We’re on the home straight – this month the inal ive cook a VIP dinner under the guidance of Michelin-starred Paul Ainsworth, travel to South Africa to experience the country’s vibrant food culture, then back to Blighty for one last challenge before the inal cook-off. Weekdays on BBC One until 12 May. Kathryn Custance

Black Cow produces a pure milk vodka that is perfect for this recipe, as it blends seamlessly with the cream. Interestingly, Black Cow’s vodka-making process starts with whole milk, which is separated into curds and whey. The whey is used to make the vodka and the curds to make a cheddar cheese. 3 tbsp used ground coffee (see tip, below) 250ml dark rum 2 tbsp maple syrup ice 1 vanilla pod 150ml double cream 150ml milk vodka (we used Black Cow)

1 Put the coffee grounds in a jar or bowl. Pour over the rum, cover and steep for 24 hrs. Once infused, strain the rum into a jug through a sieve lined with kitchen paper, then stir in the maple syrup. 2 To make the cocktail, take four tumblers and pour 25ml of the coffee rum into each one, then top up with ice cubes. In a jug, mix together the seeds from the vanilla pod (keep the pods for the garnish), the double cream and the vodka. Put a spoon on top of the ice in the glass, then pour a quarter of the boozy cream very slowly onto the spoon so that it overflows into the glass below. This will slow it down and help the cream layer to float on top of the coffee liqueur below. Repeat with the remaining three glasses, then garnish each one with a piece of vanilla pod and serve with a stirrer. GOOD TO KNOW gluten free PER COCKTAIL energy 329 kcals • fat 20g • saturates 12g • carbs 3g • sugars 2g • ibre none • protein 0.6g • salt none

tip

EXCLUSIVE OFFER FOR SUBSCRIBERS

For a more intense lavour, or if you’re not making a pot of coffee, simply use the same quantity of fresh ground coffee instead of used grounds.

Nadiya Hussain in conversation This month Good Food subscribers can get an exclusive discount on tickets to a new event with Nadiya at the Oxford Playhouse. On the night, she’ll be introducing her new book and talking about her adventures since she won Bake Off. Subscribers who buy a ticket will also be entered into a draw for the chance to meet Nadiya. To subscribe, turn to page 82.

MAY 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 13

update news & trends

HEALTH NEWS

Veggie ways to omega-3

GREEN BUY

Stainless-steel water bottles, £14 each, creative-tops.com Say no to plastic bottles with this stylish alternative – double walled insulation means your drink stays cold for 24 hours and hot for six, while vacuum technology on the lid keeps leaks at bay. BEHIND THE TREND

Edible insects In the beginning We’ve been eating insects (a practice known as ‘entomophagy’) since huntergatherer times. They are commonly eaten in Asia, Africa and South America, but consumption waned in Western society with the rise of agriculture and insects being seen as pests.

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Then Thanks to maverick thinking in the restaurant world, insects made their way onto European menus. In 2012, live ants were served at Noma, René Redzepi’s Copenhagen restaurant. Now Insects have become more widely available due to their potential as a sustainable source of protein. Thomasina Miers’ restaurant chain Wahaca has put grasshoppers (or ‘chapulines’) on the menu in London. The inside scoop Neil Whippey, co-founder of Eat Grub (eatgrub. co.uk), says: ‘There are a number of ways people can enjoy insects, from cooking with insect lour to energy bars made with cricket powder and whole snack insects, like roasted crickets.’ Natalie Hardwick

MENU DECODER

Sustainability Each month, we explore a restaurant trend. Here, Ben Pryor, director of Poco (pocotapasbar.com) in Bristol, explains some of the terms used in the UK’s growing band of sustainable restaurants. Traceability Simply being able to trace each leg of the journey that has brought an ingredient to your kitchen or table. Not just a simple country of origin stamp, but knowledge of the region, farm and farmer that grew your produce. Fairtrade A global accreditation body that guarantees Third World farmers are receiving a fair price for their produce. Direct Trade This refers to the importing of coffee directly by a roaster from a farmer, bypassing the importers. The farmer achieves the best possible price for their beans and, critically, the quality of the bean is inancially incentivised. Soil Association This organisation certi ies organic produce (soilassociation.org). Biodynamic Biodynamic farming is built on the principal of seeing the ecosystem as a whole entity and promoting health and balance throughout it. Biodynamic farmers will plant mutually bene icial crops side by side and aim to improve the quality of the soil year on year. MCS/MSC The Marine Conservation Society and The Marine Stewardship Council are both non-pro it bodies that champion sustainable ishing practice. The MCS has a Good Fish Guide online (good ishguide.org) that also lists the catch method. Zero waste All avoidable waste has been eliminated. Products that come in non-recyclable packaging are not purchased or the packaging is reused. Every ingredient is treated with a nose-to-tail approach. Natural wine Simply the whole grape and nothing but the grape. Fermentation is spontaneous, utilising natural yeasts on the grape skins themselves rather than the use of scienti ically manufactured yeast.

Shopping ANNA LAWSON | Photographs WHITEBOX MEDIA/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO | Portrait NEIL WHITE

Omega-3 fats are bene icial for heart health, and the best source is oily ish. These are rich in long-chain fats, known as EPA and DHA, which have the most direct health bene its. But what can vegetarians eat to ensure they get sufficient omega-3 fats? Plant-based sources include laxseed (linseed), rapeseed oil and nuts like walnuts, pecans and hazelnuts, as well as soya and leafy green veg. Try including them in your daily diet and look out for foods that have omega-3 added to them, such as omega-3-rich bread, eggs and some spreads. If you still think your diet falls short, ask your doctor about taking a supplement. Sarah Lienard

update news & trends

There’s so many ways to enjoy Good Food

GOOD FOOD’S MEAT COOKBOOK Our brand-new collection of 110 classic recipes features everything from prime steak to perfect pies. On sale now, £6.99.

LOVES

Urban Nature Culture bamboo plates, £3.50£7.95, selfridges.com Not only are these beautiful bamboo plates environmentally friendly, they’re dishwasher safe too!

Roast saddle of lamb with pancetta stuffing

ECO BUYS GF SHOWS Discover a BBC Good Food Show near you – ind out more on page 116. Readers save 20% on tickets!

Halo Three Mountain coffee, £10 (for 10 capsules), halo.coffee Did you know that 75% of coffee capsules produced globally are sent to land ill? On a mission to change this, Halo has produced the irst fully compostable coffee capsule, illed with fresh coffee made from a blend from three of the world’s tallest mountains.

Quello sparkling wine, from £3.50 for a 200ml can (visit quellosparkling wine.com for stockists) Quello is naturally fermented from Trebbiano and Pagadebit grapes. This semi-sparkling wine is sold in recyclable aluminium cans. Less weight and less waste.

Out & about

Spare Fruit apple crisps, £1.25, Selfridges and sparefruit.com These are made from 100% ‘rescued apples’ – those deemed too ugly or misshapen to be sold in supermarkets. Whole Kentish apples, pips and all, are sliced and air-dried to make sweet apple crisps. Great as a snack.

Raspberry Ghost (70cl), £35.50, greensanddistillery. com This berry schnapps is made from Kentish raspberries rejected by supermarkets. Greensand Ridge Distillery is paving the way in sustainable spirit production, using waste fruit and recycling or reusing all waste.

GOOD FOOD ON YOUR PHONE OR TABLET Download our interactive app at the Apple App Store. PINTEREST With over 4,000 pins on our pro ile, visit pinterest.com/ bbcgoodfood for endless recipe inspiration.

5 7 MAY BBC Good Food Show Spring, Harrogate bbcgoodfoodshow.com/harrogate-hic O 6 20 MAY Devizes Food & Drink Festival, Wiltshire devizesfoodanddrinkfestival.info O 11 28 MAY Leeds Indie Food Festival leedsindiefood.co.uk O 13 14 MAY Essex Fine Food Show, Chelmsford City Racecourse 2017essex inefoodshow.apteventspro.co.uk O 20 21 MAY Monmouthshire Food Festival monmouthshirefoodfestival.co.uk O 27 28 MAY Malton Food Lovers Festival maltonyorkshire.co.uk O 27 29 MAY River Cottage Spring Food Fair, Axminster rivercottage.net/dining-and-events/spring-food-fair

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May 2017

opinion 10 pages of food issues, including how to go vegan, and eco-friendly wines

How green can you How easy is it to follow an eco-friendly lifestyle? We challenged four volunteers - with eye-opening results compiled by ANNA LAWSON

go? MAY 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 19

Cut food

waste Dad-of-three Keith Kendrick tried to eliminate his family’s avoidable food waste for two weeks About me As a dad and a foodie, I’m used to cooking family meals. I batch-cook the kids’ meals, but prefer to cook on a whim for my wife and me. We normally throw out three small caddy-sacks of food waste a week.

The challenge WRAP (the Waste & Resources Action Programme) classifies food waste as avoidable or unavoidable. Avoidable waste means food that could have been eaten. WRAP says 7.3 million tonnes of household food waste was thrown away needlessly in 2015. My challenge was to not add to that mountain!

Getting started My strategy was two-fold: planning meals and creative use of leftovers.

Week one I wrote out two plans for the week – one for kids, one for adults – and ordered lots of ingredients. At the weekend, I cooked the kids’ weeknight meals, plus a dozen jars of soup for my wife and me to take to work. Ever tried roasting a whole cauliflower, stalks and all, then blitzing it with coconut milk and spices? Delicious! I used the stalks of kale and broccoli too – lovely when roasted with Marmite. Our Sunday chicken provided enough leftovers to make a curry, a salad and sandwiches for the kids. We still had a fair bit of waste, but none of it could’ve been eaten.

Week two By week two, we had a rhythm – whatever my kids didn’t finish for dinner, my wife had for lunch the 20 bbcgoodfood.com MAY 2017

next day. The problem? She wasn’t eating the soups I had so lovingly prepared! I thought about freezing them, only my freezer was already full. It was time for an inventory. I took everything out, which provided the meals for the week. Overall, there were only two disasters: a lasagne declared ‘inedible’ by my wife, and a vegan, gluten-free pie that tasted like plasterboard. A total of 263g of food that we could have eaten. All other waste was unavoidable, and we went from three caddysacks to two per week.

The verdict A success… sort of. Planning was fun, and knowing that 96% of what we threw away was unavoidable made me feel good. However, as a spontaneous cook, it was stifling to plan meals so far in advance. The way forward for us is balance – planning the kids’ meals ahead, with more educated portion sizes, and deciding on the day what my wife and I fancy for dinner, with one eye on the leftovers.

My top tips for cutting down on food waste

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Don’t overbuy Keep track of what you’ve bought and used. WRAP suggests taking a ‘shelfie’ – a photo of your fridge and cupboards to remind you of what’s there. Plan ahead Think about what you’re going to cook and how you’ll use the leftovers. I planned in fortnightly cycles, but some might prefer weekly. Get to know your grocer I see mine on the way home from work every day, and he’s full of advice on how to use up leftover veg. Love your freezer! Use your weekends to batch-cook and freeze. There’s plenty of freezing tips at bbcgoodfood.com/howto/freeze-food . Get composting Added to soil, compost is great for growing veg and herbs – even if you live in a flat, as we do. Turn to page 136 for advice about composting, and check out gogreen.org/ blog/how-to-compost-if-you-live-in-anapartment.

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3 For information on food waste, visit wrap.org.uk. For tips on how to eliminate food waste, visit bbcgoodfood.com/ howto/cut-food-waste.

& Share at #gfGREENissue #shel ie Share your eco ideas with us at #gfGREENissue. Our experts are here to help you keep waste to a minimum, so take a photo of your storecupboard or fridge shelf, post it to #shel ie, and the Good Food team will advise on what to make.

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opinion go green

Buy

My top tips for eating locally

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local Online shopper Fiona Forman was tasked with buying only local food near her home in south-west London About me I live in Teddington, south-west London, and cook for my boyfriend and me. I plan meals ahead and do a weekly shop on ocado.com. We mainly cook fish and vegetables, and only eat meat once a week – we buy organic and high-welfare, which is expensive.

butcher’s stocks beef from Surrey, so I bought a rump steak and some honey made in Teddington. For lunch, I made vegetable soups with sourdough and rye bread that I made with flour from E5 Bakehouse (they mill their own flour from locally sourced wheat). I also found cheeses from Woking and Berkshire in a local cheese shop.

Do your research Visit farmshop. uk.com to find your nearest farmers’ market and nationaltrust.org.uk for National Trust farm shops – they’re all over the country. Find out what’s in season before you shop, and plan meals accordingly. Turn to page 42 for a list of what’s in season this month, or visit bbcgoodfood. com/seasonal-calendar/all. It’s worth calling your butcher, fishmonger and cheesemonger before you go, to see if they have anything local – it often goes quickly, but they may be able to put some aside for you. Plan how much food you need Most farmers’ markets only happen at weekends, and local shops often close early, so be sure to get enough to last the week. Many farmers’ markets and farm shops only take cash, and not all have bags, so take some with you (plus it’s better for the environment!).

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The challenge More than half of our food now comes from abroad, mainly the EU, South America and SouthEast Asia. The further food travels, the greater the carbon footprint. The Campaign to Protect Rural England defines ‘local’ as within 30 miles of where you live. In this challenge, I had to buy all meat, fish, bread, dairy, fruit and veg locally.

Week one As I live inside the M25, I knew this wouldn’t be easy – there’s not much pasture or agriculture. My local Tesco had some British veg, but most was imported. At the nearest farmers’ market, in Twickenham, only one of the 29 producers was from within 30 miles, and one stallholder had travelled over 200 miles! The nearest fruit and veg came from 51 miles away. So I bought eggs, a whole chicken and organic lamb from Lee House Farm in Sussex. My sister volunteers at Grace & Flavour, a community garden in Surrey 14 miles away, and she gave me a big bag of veg for about £5. From one squash, I made curry, risotto and soup. I knew it would be impossible to get fish (the nearest fishing coasts are over 60 miles away), so we ate more meat than usual. My local

Week two I was determined to find veg grown closer to home. I went to Osterley Park, a National Trust estate just five miles away, in Isleworth. At the farm shop, we bought cheap, good-quality onions, potatoes, carrots, broccoli, parsnips and cauliflower for £5.90. Buying locally means you’re restricted to what can be grown in season in the UK, which is difficult in winter – I missed bananas and avocados!

The verdict Buying local involves a lot of time and planning – Saturday mornings were spent at the farmers’ market, farm shop or butcher’s – but I loved supporting farmers and interacting with people. Shopping online is a convenient but disconnected way to shop – even if I buy British, it arrives without any engagement with my local community. I spent £140 in two weeks rather than my usual £90, but meals tasted better and I appreciated them more, as I felt more connected to where they came from. I’ll keep shopping locally as much as I can.

For more information, visit cpre.org.uk.

MAY 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 21

Avoid food

packaging Food blogger James Lees’ challenge was to keep food packaging waste to a minimum About me As a blogger, I love to eat my way around Glasgow, but I also do a good bit of cooking. I try to be as healthy as possible, and rely on lots of beans, lentils, grains, fruit and vegetables, which usually come in some form of packaging. I also buy a lot of non-dairy milk. I had no idea how I’d go about sourcing all of this minus the packaging.

The challenge A quarter of all domestic waste is packaging, which can be difficult or impossible to recycle. Plastic is particularly harmful to the oceans. My challenge was to avoid, when possible, buying packaged food for two weeks. If I did buy any, it had to be recyclable.

Getting started I visited a few shops to assess what I could buy without packaging, and was pleasantly surprised by how much was available. I took my own containers, and was able to fill up on oats, nuts, rice, lentils and beans at Whole Foods and Harvest Co-op, a Glasgow shop that promotes sustainable, package-free food. I bought fruit and veg loose from my local supermarket. I wrote a meal plan and made my food ahead for the week. This challenge also gave me a reason to use the mountain of canvas bags lying around my house, as well as my travel coffee cup.

Week one As I’d feared, it was impossible to find dairy-free milk that didn’t come in a container. Luckily, my preferred brand has recyclable packaging, but I still tried to limit 22 bbcgoodfood.com MAY 2017

how much I bought. On day five, I walked all the way to my favourite café before I realised I’d left my cup at home – that almost pushed me over the edge! But the rest of the time, getting coffee was a breeze, and my local even gave me reward points for bringing my own cup. Win-win!

Week two Going into week two, my waste bin remained close to empty and, aside from a few milk cartons and tins, there was barely anything in my recycling bin either. The number of plastic bags in my house fell too, as I took canvas bags everywhere – no more 5p bag charges. By the end of the week, I was really enjoying the challenge. I was cooking more creatively, and even found myself getting annoyed when I had to buy packaging, like a carton of milk. Having to go to specific shops rather than popping to my local supermarket did get rather tiresome though.

The verdict I will continue the package-free life as much as I can. However, the specialist shops I had to go to were pretty far from where I live. Going back to using my local shops made me realise how difficult it is to adopt a package-free lifestyle. This challenge made me realise just how much needless packaging we use – even fruit and veg aisles are chock full of rolls of wasteful plastic bags.

Visit James’ blog, jamesvsburger.com.

My top tips for cutting down food packaging

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Preparation is key I don’t think I’d have survived without a meal plan. Avoid buying excess Check recipes and only buy what you need. Treat yourself to a coffee cup and canvas bags You’re worth it. Don’t worry about feeling awkward Walking into Whole Foods with my Tupperware felt odd, but staff were happy to help. Don’t forget your coffee cup If you do, I hope you have more patience than me!

5

opinion go green

Switch to

vegan Dairy lover Marianne Voyle lives with her meat-loving, gym-going partner. Could she avoid all animal products? About me My partner and I rely heavily on meat for all meals. I’m also a cheese addict, so was keen to find out if I could manage without it.

The challenge Meat production has quadrupled worldwide since the Sixties, with major environmental implications. Following a plant-based diet helps to reduce our carbon footprint. I wanted to do my bit by not eating foods that contain animal products, including meat, fish, shellfish, dairy, eggs and honey.

Getting started The first hurdle was telling friends and family – the words ‘bland’ and ‘lack of protein’ were thrown about, and I worried that socialising might be hard. After some research, I concluded that protein wasn’t a problem – there’s enough in veg, beans, nuts and seeds. It’s harder to get omega-3 (it’s present in chia seeds and walnuts, but not in the same active form as oily fish) and The Vegan Society recommends vitamin D and B12 supplements. Concerned about losing weight, I spoke to Kerry Torrens, Good Food’s nutritional therapist, who advised me to increase my portion sizes.

Week one As my options were now limited, I spent time prepping soups, curry pastes, sauces and snacks. I kept porridge oats at my desk to have with almond milk, banana and nuts in the morning. It was hard to find food on-the-go, as so many items contain milk and eggs. I also hadn’t realised that not all wines are vegan.

Veganism is all about finding creative solutions. I made a lovely butter ‘chicken’ curry with a base of ground cashews and coconut cream, and replicated a carbonara with oat-based cream, smoked tofu and vegan cashew ‘parmesan’ (for recipe, see bbcgoodfood.com).

My top tips for going vegan

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Give yourself time to adjust to a vegetarian diet before giving up all animal products. Switching straight to a high-fibre diet could upset your stomach. Buy a mini chopper or blender to make pastes, sauces and soups. Instagram accounts are useful for restaurant recommendations, and bbcgoodfood.com has plenty of vegan recipes to choose from. If you can, visit a few vegan restaurants and cafés to see what great things you can eat on a vegan diet. Specialist ingredients can be expensive. Chia seeds, nutritional yeast and nuts are much cheaper if you hunt around online.

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Week two I was surprised that desserts and cakes tasted the same. I found some great vegan bakes in London, like Ms. Cupcake’s Ferrero Rocher cake, Mildreds’ crème brûlée, and The Gate’s banoffee pie. Going vegan doesn’t deprive you of dessert! The real struggle was cheese – none of the dairy-free versions I tried hit the spot. There are a few vegan mac ’n’ cheese recipes that use squash and nutritional yeast (yeast flakes that provide a cheesy flavour), but it tastes so different I question whether they should tease people with the name!

The verdict Going vegan wasn’t right for me. If I didn’t eat constantly, I felt weak and hungry, and I lost weight. It’s all about finding a balance and eating what makes you feel healthy and happy. I’m not ready to give up dairy (I couldn’t go without my beloved mac ’n’ cheese), but I didn’t miss meat, so I’ll be cooking more vegbased meals. But who knows? This could all change if I find that elusive vegan cheese.

For more information on veganism, visit bbcgoodfood.com/howto/ become-vegan or vegansociety.com.

MAY 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 23

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opinion food issues

My clean, green kitchen Joanna Blythman takes pride in keeping the heart of her home as eco-friendly as possible – especially as it also saves money

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don’t have a dream kitchen. It’s a galley, so we can’t eat in it – but I like to think it’s a green kitchen. I always wanted to make my kitchen habits as ecological as possible, and I was deeply influenced by my grandmother’s wartime frugality. She wouldn’t throw out anything that was still serviceable, be it a jam jar or brown paper. Later, when I was hard up with a young family, I discovered that economising often dovetails with saving the planet. I’d ask myself, ‘Do I really need to buy this?’, and often conclude that I didn’t. Instead, over the years I have honed my eco-kitchen skills. If the kitchen sink clogs or smells, I won’t spend £5 on some supposedly miracle drain un-blocker. Cheap vinegar and bicarbonate of soda do the job for pennies. Nor do I buy ‘disposable’ cloths. I get through next to no kitchen paper (reserved for serious spills), and instead I have e-cloths, which go into the washing machine along with the laundry, on a short, low-temperature wash. Cleanliness should not be confused with whiteness. For me, the pursuit of pristine, stain-free tea towels is as futile and environmentally unaware as the desire for a weed-free lawn. So my laundered tea towels are testament to close encounters with turmeric and mango, but I know they’re clean, even though I don’t bleach them with harsh chemical products or wash them at high temperatures. And it made total sense to me when I discovered that my local wholefood shop did refills of ecological cleaning products. It’s hard not to notice how all those empty bottles of washing liquid and fabric conditioner fill up the recycling bin week in, week out. Now I refill the same containers over and over, which visibly reduces our waste. Unless used foil is irredeemably messy, I smooth it out for reuse. Concerns about chemicals in food packaging contaminating

food resonate with me, so I don’t use cling film when it might touch our food. I prefer the old plate-on-top-of-the-bowl trick I witnessed as a child. I’m reluctant to decant leftovers and often simply leave them in the fridge in the pans in which they were cooked. This means I’m using less washing-up liquid, fuel and water. A green perspective simplifies that perennial kitchen dilemma: making enough space in the fridge. Lots of foods and drinks don’t have to be in there using up energy: fruit, eggs, root vegetables, butter, condiments, wine and the like. Old-fashioned cool pantries are trendy. I envy those who have one, but I use the great outdoors (just outside the back door) instead. Living in Scotland, the temperature out there is lower than your average fridge for much of the year, and the local foxes don’t seem to share my food tastes. My annoyingly ineffective kitchen extraction fan is now rarely on – opening the window is calmer, greener and free of charge. I do use the dishwasher, but I ignore the plethora of icons on the control panel and always use the shortest programme: it works fine. When my electric orange squeezer died, I replaced it with my now-much-preferred manual one, purchased on a trip to Istanbul’s Spice Bazaar. It exercises my arm muscles, will last forever, and it juices pomegranates too. I’m also keen on slow-simmered, one-pot meals. Less washing up, so lower water bills and fuel costs – what’s not to like? Once you start thinking green in the kitchen, it’s hard to think any other way.

Portrait ALAN PEEBLES

‘Concerns about chemicals in food packaging resonate with me, so I don’t use cling film. I prefer the old plate-on-top-ofthe-bowl trick’

Good Food contributing editor Joanna is an award-winning food journalist who has written on the subject for 25 years. She is also a regular contributor to BBC Radio 4. @joannablythman Next month: Online shopping vs face-to-face

ways to be more eco-friendly

•Avoid antibacterial and antimicrobial ‘cleaners’. They’re no more effective than soap and hot water, and they add to the risk of breeding highly resistant ‘super-germs’. Vinegar is a traditional multipurpose cleaner. Use it to clean windows and mirrors rather than ammonia-based products. Vinegar mixed with bicarbonate of soda and a little warm water makes an effective, non-toxic cleaner for kitchen surfaces. (For a guide to spring cleaning your kitchen, visit bbcgoodfood. com/ten-ways-spring-cleanyour-kitchen.) Where possible, repair rather than replace appliances. Good-quality utensils, from knives and peelers to saucepans, will last for years. Avoid plastic handles and non-stick coatings that need replacing more frequently. (You can ind Good Food’s recommendations and best buys at bbcgoodfood.com/ feature/reviews.) Hone your energy-efficient one-pot cooking skills – turn to page 96 for our new summer slow-cooker recipes, and ind loads more at bbcgoodfood.com.

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How green is your kitchen? Do you have any tips or tricks you use to reduce waste, save energy and protect the environment? Let us know by contacting us at hello@ bbcgoodfoodmagazine.com

MAY 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 25

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opinion restaurant review

Marina O’Loughlin eats at

Gamba This Glasgow favourite serves sustainable seafood in a classic setting: food worth celebrating

G WHERE 225a West George Street, Glasgow G2 2ND 0141 572 0899 gamba.co.uk COST Three-course set menu, £45 BEST DISH Sole meunière VERDICT Forward-thinking and sustainable

amba seems to be rather an old-fashioned restaurant. I don’t mean that in a classic or traditional way, just that it comes across as stuck in the aesthetic and restaurant culture of the late ’90s when it first landed on the Glasgow scene. There are its striped velvet banquettes, high-backed chairs, piscine artwork and over-bright lighting. Staff are strictly hierarchical in a very last-century way: the punctilious maître d’ in charge, the smiling young women most emphatically lower down the chain of command. And its formally laid-out, regularly changing menu, with set lunches, starters, main courses and desserts – none of yer small plates affectations – well, this is old-fashioned in a way that makes me smile with pleasure. Take hake, an inches-thick slab seared until crunchy of skin but with a just-cooked, softly flaking interior shimmering with the nacre of an oyster shell. Its bisque of smoked haddock, peas & avruga caviar, salty and pungent with coral cream, has the air of something served in a formal country house hotel by chaps in gloves. And it’s a determinedly old-fashioned dish that’s the star of our show: lemon sole meunière that tastes blissfully of its sweet self, the firm flesh accented by masses of nutty brown butter and lemon – complete with more muslinwrapped half lemon for extra spritz. Deceptively simple, frequently botched, this is a textbook wallow in a golden-hued yesteryear. Fat, crisp, hand-cut Rooster potato chips for dredging through the lemony butter are the perfect side dish. And anyone putting lobster Thermidor on the menu, that most unabashed celebration of temps-perdu richness, is okay with me. The unfashionable service ethic means that there’s no squatting by tables, no ‘what can I get you guys?’. Drilled to within an inch of their life, all questions are readily answered, all requests happily accommodated, all mistakes instantly rectified. A fish soup thrumming with ginger and coriander comes without its promised prawn dumplings and is rapidly replaced for the one bobbing with bouncy seafood balls. Aka ‘foup’ and on the menu since day one, it’s crammed with Islands crabmeat and white fish in a base distilled from many shellfish carcasses – plus, I’m guessing, a healthy slug of brandy. It’s only when the menu comes over all new-fangled that the kitchen comes a little unstuck. There are Asian flourishes to many dishes: scallops with lemon-teriyaki sauce; frequent guest appearances of soy, sesame oil, tamari; ‘Thai mussel stew’. But in a dish of scallop and & yellowfin sashimi, the tuna has been badly cut: no amount of teasing the fish flesh into

‘Fat, crisp, hand-cut Rooster potato chips for dredging through the lemony butter are the perfect side’ flower shapes or quantities of soy, gari and wasabi can disguise the thick seams of unyielding connective tissue – a rare misstep. One of Gamba’s main draws is chef-owner Derek Marshall’s absolute commitment to the quality of his produce, to the finest Scottish seafood – sadly, often unsung in its native country – and, crucially, sustainability. Here they’re well ahead of the game: his was among the first restaurants in Scotland to give a spotlight to provenance and fish stocks, winning the full three stars from the SRA (Sustainable Restaurant Association) three years in a row. This is good news for oceans, but also for diners: the quality is unimpeachable. So yes, Gamba might not be bristling with the latest restaurant tropes, but where it counts, it’s forward-thinking. For that, it should continue to make a briny splash for the next decade at the very least.

Contributing editor Marina O’Loughlin, one of the most respected food writers in the UK, reviews restaurants for Good Food and The Guardian Weekend. For more from Marina, visit bbcgoodfood.com. @marinaoloughlin @marinagpoloughlin

Next month: The Patricia in Newcastle

MAY 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 27

Fresh ways with old liquor f I were to apply for Mastermind, Cooking with Alcohol would be my special subject. I studied it for this magazine when I lived in New York with all the passion of an over-keen undergraduate. Now back at home, I have altruistically investigated the way liquor is used in food in the UK, and I can confidently assure you we are whupping the Americans hands down. Last year, a brilliantly innovative bar popped up in London called Eat Your Drink – imagine the magic of Charlie and the Chocolate Factory, only with more alcohol. They sold candy floss that had been infused with martinis, spritzed the air with daiquiri-flavoured perfumes, then showered it with alcoholic bubbles. There was a wall of pipes dispensing cocktails that had been turned into sherbert, with boozy dip dabs to dip into them. Customers could leave with a box of their signature product: gin, rum and whisky-flavoured fruit pastilles, each sweet coming in at 80% alcohol – meaning you can only eat 10 before you have to ditch the car. Some UK cupcake delivery services are targeting adult customers by lacing their batter with liquor. The Primrose Bakery delivers Bellini or pear martini cupcakes, and Jennifer’s Cakes has gone large on strawberry & champagne – a vanilla cupcake with a strawberry & champagne jam centre, finished with a cream cheese & champagne icing. If you want carb-free treats, have a look at my favourite online shop, burghbakes.com. They invented prosecco & rose marshmallows – like an alcoholic Turkish delight – and they have finally managed to find a use for that most revolting of all liqueurs, crème de menthe, which they steep into

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28 bbcgoodfood.com MAY 2017

their After Eight marshmallows, which you then set adrift into a mug of hot chocolate. But my favourite liquor-related innovation was Alcoholic Architecture – a ‘cloud bar’ in London, recently created by Bompas & Parr. Imagine a weird, softly lit room where spirits and mixers, combined in a 1:3 ratio, are released into the air with a humidifier. You are allowed to stay inside for only 30 minutes at a time because the alcohol enters the bloodstream through your lungs and eyeballs. Yup, I just said that. So what about cooking with alcohol at home? It seems rash to use something still good for drinking, and spirits last for months (rum and tequila), years (vodka) or infinity (bourbon). So the best plan is to use up carbonated liquids as they’re all pretty rubbish the next day. The rationale here is that recipes involving cava, beer and cider are not only delicious, but also help the environment. I think. Have you tried roasting a chicken that has an opened can of beer rammed up its bottom? It sounds insane but tastes great – basted with booze from the inside out. Any type of parsnip soup is better with a few cups of yesterday’s cider added to the stock; and an unfinished prosecco, warmed then mixed with some sheets of gelatine and a sweet syrup (agave, maple or sugar), makes a classy alcoholic jelly. A Freud family favourite is Drunkards Soup. Slowly caramelise some onions with garlic, thyme, a teaspoon of sugar and a splash of

balsamic vinegar until they are deeply golden. Add a bottle of champagne or cava, simmer for 15 minutes, season and then float a small camembert on top before serving. Boof! Despite the long shelf lives, there may come a day when you look at your ancient experimental party bottles or Duty Free mistakes and decide they haven’t got long left for this world. At that moment, consider BYOC (Bring Your Own Cocktail, byoc.co.uk) – a new breed of UK bars that don’t have drinks licences. They’re speakeasy style – you take them any leftover bottles of spirits and the bartenders turn whatever they get into cocktails using their own range of homemade syrups, cordials and mixers. Entry is £25, and you get bottomless cocktails for the next two hours. Alternatively, this may be the moment to start thinking about alcoholic ice cream. If you’re keen and dedicated, you could make a gin & tonic gelato. But if you’re lazy and hungry, you just need to perfect the ‘shot of alcohol poured over ice cream’ trick, and then dream a little about perfect pairings: vanilla ice cream with a drizzle of amaretto; lemon sorbet with a shot of ice-cold tequila; chocolate ice cream with a dousing of salted caramel vodka. I have reluctantly tested all these on your behalf and they are beautiful ways to end a meal. Trust me on this, I’m working towards a PhD.

‘Have you tried roasting a chicken that has an opened can of beer rammed up its bottom?’

Good Food contributing editor Emma Freud is a journalist and broadcaster. @emmafreud

Portrait DAVID COTSWORTH | Recipe photograph DAVID MUNNS | Food styling ROSIE BIRKETT Styling VICTORIA ALLEN

In the spirit of our eco issue, Emma Freud shares her favourite ways to use up leftover booze

opinion how we eat now

White Russian tart Not counting a messy incident with one too many Snowballs in my teens, a White Russian was the first cocktail I got drunk on, and I’ve had a soft spot for it ever since. So I’ve taken that memory and turned it into a pie. It’s one of the most delicious puddings I’ve created, and is also a charitable act for an old, half-drunk bottle of Kahlúa. SERVES 12 PREP 15 mins plus a few hrs chilling COOK 5 mins

1 Put the biscuits and butter in a blender and blitz into crumbs. Press them into the base and up the sides of a deep 23cm fluted tart tin, then put in the fridge to chill while you make the filling. 2 Put the marshmallows and milk in a pan and warm through gently while whisking. When it’s close to boiling, take it off the heat but keep stirring. Once the marshmallows are fully dissolved, whisk in the vodka and Kahlúa, then leave it to cool completely.

3 Whisk the cream until it’s pillowy, then add the cooled marshmallow mixture. Once combined, pile it all onto your tart base and chill for a few hours. Before you serve it, grate some dark chocolate and a little nutmeg over the top, then try not to eat it all before serving. PER SERVING 465 kcals • fat 33g • saturates 20g • carbs 31g • sugars 18g • ibre 1g • protein 4g • salt 0.4g

For the base 350g dark chocolate digestives 60g butter For the illing 200g white marshmallows 150ml whole milk 5 tbsp vodka 5 tbsp Kahlúa 400ml double cream To inish a few squares of dark chocolate pinch of freshly ground nutmeg

MAY 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 29

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opinion the new drink rules

Swap your bottle for a box

For our eco issue, Victoria Moore looks at how your glass of red or white could be greener

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t takes 4kWh of energy – enough to power a television for a month – to make just one recycled wine bottle, a sobering thought even if you haven’t seen the size of my weekly trash mountain. This statistic was provided to me by new bag-in-box specialist When In Rome. ‘The melting point of glass is more than 1,000C – higher than that of aluminium or steel, which is why so much energy is needed,’ explains CEO Rob Malin. And don’t even think about dumping them in landfill – a glass wine bottle takes about a million years to decompose! The huge energy wastage associated with single-use glass bottles is the main driving force behind a new growth in alternative packaging. This might come as a bit of a surprise – after all, the Seventies love-in with box wine was more about cheap supermarket plonk. But today’s greener packaging discovery is slightly under the radar because it’s being driven by high-quality bars and restaurants. ‘We were very conscious of the impact of so many glass bottles on the environment, and felt that this was a way to make a difference – although we like to talk about the quality of the wine first and other benefits second,’ says Vinoteca director Charlie Young. Vinoteca was one of the pioneers of bag-in-box wine, and started selling it seven years ago – like the five-litre 2016 Côtes de Provence No.2, £59.80 (above). But Young says that he now prefers the KeyKeg system – which allows wine to be served like keg beer, on tap from disposable containers – being rolled out across many other well-known restaurants, like Morito, the Hackney off-shoot of Moro. If you thought that wine on tap wouldn’t meet the high standards of the wining-and-dining establishment, think again: the Michelin-starred Trinity in Clapham has installed the system on its back bar.

The best bag-in-boxes to drink at home still aren’t being sold in supermarkets or discount stores, which haven’t kept up with this trend. They are coming from boutique producers and importers. You can buy London’s St John’s restaurant own bag-in-box to take home or online (with a delivery charge). When In Rome specialises in Italian wines made by small producers, and has just launched a bag-in-box wine club called Glitterati. Sign up for £29 per month and you get one 2.25-litre bag-in-box per month, a refillable bottle so you can serve the wine at table, plus early access to limited-edition wines. If that all sounds too much, what about buying wines in bottles from a carbonneutral wine producer? Yealands Estate in New Zealand was the first winery to be certified carboNZero from inception. The auditing procedure takes everything into account, including the manufacture of the dry goods that come into the winery, and the shipping and eventual disposal of the bottles that go out. Yealands offsets carbon debits by buying certified carbon credits, which include the regeneration of native forests. Their wine is bloody good too – and available from Sainsbury’s, the Co-op and Waitrose, among others.

Photograph MIKE ENGLISH | Portrait CLARA MOLDEN

More eco-friendly than a bottle – and it tastes good too!

The Wine Dine Dictionary (£20, Granta) comes out on 11 May and is available for pre-order on amazon.co.uk. @how_to_drink @planetvictoria

Cono Sur Bicicleta Viognier 2016, Chile (£7, Morrisons) Visit Cono Sur and you’ll hear the honk of vineyard geese and see workers pedaling past on bikes. There’s a real commitment to sustainable agriculture there and their wine is great too – smooth and peachy, with a hint of starfruit and citrus.

What to eat with…

p57

Yalumba Y Series Viognier 2016, Australia (£9.99, or £8.99 as part of the mix six deal, Majestic) I like drinking viognier in spring; its peachy lorals suit both the weather and Tom Kerridge’s one-pot poached spring chicken on page 57.

p87

Ripasso Valpolicella 2014, Italy (£11, M&S) The sour cherry taste and hearty texture of this northern Italian wine works well with the halloumi latbreads on page 87.

Next month: Victoria tells us what we’ll be drinking this summer

MAY 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 31

Trip to the park an absolute washout. But Goodies puffcorn and muddy puddles save the day!

#SmallWins

Great Taste. No Junk.

Inspiration for all your cooking this month

be inspired

easiest ever

Friday night rice, plus our zero-waste recipes, p36

Veggie suppers and slow cooker meals, p84

healthy

food stories

Sandwich ideas and Joe Wicks’ spicy chicken, p102

Poke cake, plus Kirstie Allsopp’s favourite dishes, p118

MAY 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 35

season’s best

Spring

green! British produce is at its inest right now. Make the most of it with these new recipes recipes BARNEY DESMAZERY and LULU GRIMES photographs STUART OVENDEN

cover recipe Pea, broad bean & rocket risotto with chicken, p38 36 bbcgoodfood.com MAY 2017

be inspired season’s best

Asparagus fries & baconnaise, p38 MAY 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 37

cover recipe Pea, broad bean & rocket risotto with chicken We’re always looking for ways to waste less food, which is how we came up with this month’s cover star. It has bags more flavour than the average risotto, as it’s cleverly made from a tasty stock of the pea pods, woody asparagus ends, and parsley stalks, which normally get thrown away. SERVES 4 PREP 20 mins COOK 50 mins EASY

1 litre vegetable stock 250g fresh peas in their pods, podded and pods reserved 200g bunch asparagus, trimmed (woody ends reserved) and sliced small pack parsley (25g), leaves picked and roughly chopped, stalks reserved 3 tbsp olive oil 50g butter 1 onion, inely chopped

Asparagus fries & baconnaise The only thing cooked asparagus lacks is crunch, so we’ve rectified that minor failing by coating it in breadcrumbs and roasting it. Serve with our smoky, creamy baconnaise – it really is amazing. SERVES 4 PREP 20 mins COOK 35 mins MORE EFFORT

2 bunches of asparagus – you want about 20 spears in total plain lour 3 eggs 50g parmesan, inely grated 50g panko breadcrumbs 4 tbsp olive oil For the baconnaise 250g smoked streaky bacon 2 tbsp sun lower oil, plus extra to top up 1 egg, plus 1 egg yolk (from above) 1 tbsp mustard 1 tbsp cider vinegar

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300g risotto rice small glass of white wine 100g podded, blanched broad beans (peeled if you like) 3 skinless chicken breasts 50g parmesan, inely grated handful wild rocket

1 To make the base, bring the stock to the boil, then add the pea pods and asparagus ends. Simmer for 2 mins, then add the parsley stalks and take off the heat. Use a powerful stick blender to blitz everything to make a green stock, then pass through a sieve into a jug. Set aside. 2 Heat 2 tbsp of the oil and half the butter in a heavy, wide pan. Tip in the onion and sizzle gently for 5 mins until soft. Turn up the heat slightly, tip in the rice and stir for a few mins. Pour in the wine and cook down until it has been absorbed into the rice. 3 Add ladles of stock to the rice, stirring, adding another ladleful after it’s been absorbed. Once the rice is starting to soften but is still chalky (about 20 mins), stir in the

1 Separate one of the three eggs for the asparagus. Put the white in a bowl with the remaining two eggs, beat with a fork and set aside until needed. Now, make the baconnaise. Chop the bacon as finely as possible. Heat the oil in a frying pan, add the bacon and stir over a low heat for 15 mins, so it ends up sizzling in its own fat and becomes brown and crisp. Sit a metal sieve over a jug and tip the bacon into the sieve – you need about 200ml of fat in total, so top up the bacon fat with extra oil as necessary. Leave to cool for 10 mins. 2 Tip the egg, egg yolk and mustard into a bowl, whisk to combine, then slowly add the bacon fat and oil mixture – first a drop at a time, then gradually quicker when it starts to come together. (You can also make this in a mini chopper, by blitzing the egg and mustard then slowly adding the oil with the blade running.) Once you have a thick mayonnaise, add the vinegar and chopped bacon, and season to taste. Can be made up to three days ahead and kept in the fridge. 3 For the asparagus, snap off or trim the woody ends (save for

peas and asparagus. Keep adding stock until it’s all been used and the rice is just cooked, then stir through the broad beans. 4 While the rice is cooking, heat the remaining oil in a frying pan. Season the chicken and pan-fry for 3-4 mins each side until lightly browned and just cooked through. Turn the heat off but leave the chicken in the pan to keep warm. 5 Once the risotto is cooked, take off the heat and scatter over the parmesan, the rest of the butter and the parsley leaves. Cover the pan and leave to sit for a few mins. Carve the chicken into thick slices, give the risotto a good stir, season well and scatter over the rocket. Serve the risotto topped with the sliced chicken.

tip Turn this into a vegan main course by using just olive oil instead of butter, omitting the chicken and leaving out the parmesan.

GOOD TO KNOW folate • ibre • vit c • 2 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 727 kcals • fat 26g • saturates 11g • carbs 72g • sugars 6g • ibre 8g • protein 43g • salt 1.2g

making stock or soup). Get out three shallow dishes and tip the flour into one, the reserved beaten eggs into another, and the parmesan and breadcrumbs into the third. Dip the asparagus in the flour, then the egg, then the cheesy breadcrumbs, and put on a plate. Can be prepared the day before, covered and kept in the fridge. 4 Heat oven to 220C/200C fan/ gas 7. Drizzle the oil over a baking tray (a sturdy Swiss roll tin is ideal) and heat in the oven. Once the oil is hot, carefully lay the asparagus spears in it, then turn them. Make sure they are in one layer, then roast for 20 mins, turning halfway through, until the crumbs have browned to a crisp coating. Leave until just cool enough to pick up, then serve with the baconnaise for dipping. GOOD TO KNOW folate • 1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 801 kcals • fat 70g • saturates 15g • carbs 15g • sugars 2g • ibre 2g • protein 26g • salt 3.0g

tip Following the trend of making mayonnaise out of everything other than the usual ingredients, we’ve used bacon. Use this mayo as a dip, or as a spread for toasted sandwiches or burgers to give the lavour of crisp, smoky bacon without having to turn on the grill.

be inspired season’s best

Pea & broad bean shakshuka We’ve turned this classic brunch dish into more of a main course by adding seasonal spring vegetables. SERVES 4 PREP 20 mins COOK 30 mins EASY V

1 bunch asparagus spears 200g sprouting broccoli 2 tbsp olive oil 2 spring onions, inely sliced 2 tsp cumin seeds large pinch cayenne pepper, plus extra to serve 4 ripe tomatoes, chopped 1 small pack parsley, inely chopped 50g shelled peas 50g podded broad beans 4 large eggs 50g pea shoots Greek yogurt and latbreads, to serve

1 Trim or snap the woody ends off the asparagus and finely slice the spears, leaving the tips and about 2cm at the top intact. Finely slice the broccoli in the same way, leaving the heads and about 2cm of stalk intact. Heat the oil in a frying pan. Add the spring onions, sliced asparagus and sliced broccoli, and fry gently until the veg softens a little, then add the cumin seeds, cayenne, tomatoes (with their juices), parsley and plenty of seasoning, and stir. Cover with a lid and cook for 5 mins to make a base sauce, then add the asparagus spears, broccoli heads, peas and broad beans, cover again and cook for 2 mins. 2 Make 4 dips in the mixture. Break an egg into each dip, arrange half the pea shoots around the eggs, season well, cover with a lid and cook until the egg whites are just set. Serve with the rest of the pea shoots, a spoonful of yogurt and some flatbreads, and sprinkle over another pinch of cayenne, if you like. GOOD TO KNOW healthy • folate • ibre • vit c • 3 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING energy 199 kcals • fat 12g • saturates 2g • carbs 7g • sugars 5g • ibre 7g • protein 13g • salt 0.2g

MAY 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 39

be inspired xxxxx xxxxxxx

Courgette, jalapeño & feta nachos SERVES 4 PREP 15 mins COOK 25 mins EASY V

1 onion, inely chopped 2 tbsp olive oil 2 jalapeño chillies, inely sliced 2 courgettes, inely chopped 1 tsp sweet smoked paprika 2 small Little Gem lettuces, chopped 1 small pack coriander, chopped

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150ml double cream 200g feta, chopped 1 bag plain tortilla chips 50g pumpkin seeds

1 Heat oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Fry the onion in the oil until softening, then add the chillies and courgettes and fry until starting to soften. Add the paprika, season well, and fry for a min more, then stir in the lettuce and cook until wilted. Stir in half the coriander. 2 Melt the cream and feta in a small pan, whisking out any lumps. Put the pumpkin

seeds in a small ovenproof dish and roast for 5-8 mins or until toasted. Tip the tortilla chips onto a baking tray and warm in the oven for 5 mins. 3 Arrange the tortilla chips on a large platter and spoon over the courgette and jalapeno mixture, followed by the feta cream. Scatter over the remaining coriander and pumpkin seeds. GOOD TO KNOW calcium • folate • ibre • 2 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING energy 744 kcals • fat 56g • saturates 23g • carbs 38g • sugars 8g • ibre 8g • protein 19g • salt 2.1g

be inspired season’s best

Mint chutney, barbecued lamb & potato salad, p42 MAY 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 41

We used nettles instead of spinach in this twist on the classic, crispy Greek filo pie. Young nettles are a sweet, nutritious and free alternative to spinach (see p140 for our guide to picking nettles). SERVES 6 PREP 20 mins plus cooling COOK 50 mins MORE EFFORT V

150g nettle leaves 100g butter, 25g solid, 75g melted 200g feta, crumbled 50g parmesan, inely grated 1 lemon, zested and juiced 1 egg, beaten grated nutmeg 7 sheets ilo pastry 1 tbsp sesame seeds green salad, to serve

Mint chutney, barbecued lamb & potato salad You can get mint all year round but its true season is spring. Here we’ve given it star billing by turning it into a punchy, Indian-style fresh chutney, which we’ve used three ways – as a marinade, as a dressing and as the base to a sauce. SERVES 6 PREP 20 mins plus at least 2 hrs marinating COOK 1 hr EASY

1 small leg of lamb, about 1.5kg, butter lied (ask your butcher to do this for you) For the chutney 1 large pack mint (about 100g), leaves picked 1 small pack coriander 3 garlic cloves 1 inger-sized piece of ginger 2 green chillies, deseeded if you like 2 tsp cumin seeds, toasted 1 lemon, juiced For the potatoes 800g new potatoes, halved 100g peas, frozen or fresh and podded 2 spring onions, sliced 200g Greek yogurt

1 For the filling, wash the nettles well but don’t drain them too thoroughly. Heat the solid butter in a large frying pan. When it’s sizzling and has turned a nutty brown, add the nettles and cook for about 6 mins until wilted. Leave to cool. 2 Using a tea towel, squeeze as much liquid out of the nettles as you can, then roughly chop and tip into a bowl. Mix in the feta, parmesan, lemon zest and juice, about two-thirds of the egg and some nutmeg, and season generously. The filling should be loose but not sloppy. 3 Heat oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. To assemble the spanakopita, lay three sheets of filo end-to-end on your work surface, overlapping by about 5cm. Brush each piece with melted butter and top with three more sheets, then brush with more butter and add the final sheet to the middle for extra support. Spoon the nettle mix

1 First, make the chutney. Put all the ingredients with a good pinch of salt and a small splash of water in a minichopper or food processor and blitz to a chunky paste. Will keep in the fridge for two days. 2 Use one-third of the chutney to marinate the lamb for at least a couple of hours, or up to 24 hrs before. To make the potato salad, boil the potatoes until just cooked, around 12-15 mins. When they’ve got about a minute left, add the peas. Drain and leave to cool. Toss the spring onions through the potatoes and peas, then dress with one-third of the chutney and the yogurt. Can be made a day ahead and chilled in the fridge. Take out 1 hr before serving. 3 To cook the lamb, heat the barbecue until the coals are ashen. Grill the lamb, flesh-side down, for about 25 mins, then flip it over and cook on the fat side for about 15 mins until charred and sizzling. When the lamb is cooked to your liking, leave it to rest on a warm platter to catch the juices. To serve, carve the lamb into thick slices, again catching the juices. In a bowl, mix the cooking juices with the remaining chutney, and serve alongside the lamb. GOOD TO KNOW folate • vit c • iron • gluten free PER SERVING energy 579 kcals • fat 29 • saturates 13g • carbs 24 • sugars 4g • ibre 4g • protein 55g • salt 0.4g

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along the edge, about 2cm wide, and tuck over the short ends to stop any filling from coming out. Roll the pastry into a long sausage shape. Starting with one end, roll up the sausage into a spiral shape about 20cm wide. Put the spanakopita in a shallow round pan, like an ovenproof frying pan, if it fits. If not, slide it onto a buttered baking tray. 4 Brush the pie liberally with the remaining egg and scatter with the sesame seeds. Bake for 40-45 mins or until golden brown. Leave to cool until just warm, then serve in slices with a peppery salad. GOOD TO KNOW calcium PER SERVING energy 421 kcals • fat 26 • saturates 15g • carbs 30g • sugars 2g • ibre 4g • protein 15g • salt 1.8g

At their best now Fruit & veg • Asparagus • Broad beans • Cauli lower • Elder lower • Mint • Nettles • New potatoes, including Jersey Royals • Peas • Pea shoots • Radishes • Rhubarb • Rocket • Salad onions • Samphire

tip You can also cook the lamb in the oven. Heat oven to 220C/200C fan/gas 7, place it on a baking tray, cook for 15 mins, then reduce the oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4 and cook for 15 mins more. Leave to rest for 15 mins.

• Sorrel • Watercress • Wild garlic Fish & seafood • Dab • Plaice • Pollock • Trout Meat & game • Spring lamb • Wood pigeon

Food styling JENNIFER JOYCE Styling SARAH BIRKS

Nettle spanakopita

be inspired season’s best

MAY 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 43

use-it-all meal plan

Zero waste

weekend Shop on Saturday, use up all your ingredients by Sunday! Our clever recipes have all the taste but none of the waste recipes JANE HORNBY photographs PETER CASSIDY

Saturday brunch Teatime treat Dinner for 4 Relaxed Sunday lunch

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be inspired use-it-all meal plan

Smoky roasted veg, marinated feta & lime, p46 MAY 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 45

How it works e’ve created a series of dishes for you to cook from just one trip to the shops. Use our list to stock up, then follow our recipes and suggestions for leftovers to see you through until Sunday night. The only things you’ll have to throw away are those unavoidable items. Your compost caddy will think you’ve gone away for the weekend!

W

You will need to buy

You may need to buy

Fruit & veg • 1 large cauli lower • 1 butternut squash • 2 limes • 1 red chilli (2 if you make the pickle) • pot of growing rosemary • 1 small, ripe pineapple • 3 passion fruits • 1kg Maris Pipers • pot of growing thyme • 2 bunches salad onions • 50g bag watercress • 270g pack mixed small tomatoes • 400g carrots (500g if you make the pickle) • broad beans • small pack lat-leaf parsley • 1 lemon (more for the preserved lemon and lime squeezes) • 400g bag frozen raspberries • 400g bag frozen blueberries

• Cumin seeds • Sweet smoked paprika • 100g chocolate (70% cocoa solids) • 45g bar Bournville • Dry white wine • Instant espresso coffee powder • 2 onions

Chilled • 200g pack feta • 2 x 250g packs unsalted butter • 500ml whole milk • 5 large eggs • 4 illets sea bass or other white ish • 100g pot prepared white and brown crabmeat (I used Fifty Fifty) • Small tub vanilla or coffee ice cream

From your storecupboard • Olive or vegetable oil • Extra virgin olive oil (or rapeseed oil) • Soy sauce • Golden caster sugar • Self-raising lour • Flaky sea salt • White wine vinegar • Wholegrain mustard • 2 vanilla pods or vanilla extract • Icing sugar • Plain lour • Golden syrup • Corn lour • Porridge oats • Crunchy peanut butter • Frozen peas • Vegetable or chicken stock • 2 garlic bulbs

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Saturday Brunch Smoky roasted veg, marinated feta & lime This brunch takes a while to prep, but there’s little hands-on cooking time. SERVES 4 PREP 20 mins COOK 55 mins EASY V

1 large cauli lower (800g-1kg) 1 small butternut squash 2 tbsp olive or vegetable oil, plus 1 tsp 1 tbsp sweet smoked paprika 1 tbsp whole cumin seeds, crushed 1 tsp soy sauce 1 lime, juiced (see below right for how to use up the lime skin) For the feta 4 tbsp olive oil (extra virgin ideally) 1 red chilli, thinly sliced 1 garlic clove, lightly bashed 2 rosemary sprigs 200g pack feta, drained

1 Heat oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Break the cauliflower into florets. Trim then chop the thick stem into small chunks and keep any leaves. Halve the squash lengthways, scrape out and keep the seeds, then cut the flesh into 5mm half moons. Put the veg in a roasting tin with 2 tbsp oil, the spices and some seasoning, then rub

with your hands to coat. Roast for 45 mins, turning the veg a few times, until golden and tender. Add the leaves (large ones shredded) halfway through. 2 For the feta, pour the oil into a pan, add the chilli, garlic, rosemary and some pepper and heat for 5 mins. Put the feta in a dish, and pour the oil and aromatics over it. Leave at room temperature while you finish cooking, basting regularly so it soaks up the oil. 3 Rinse the squash seeds in a sieve, shake off as much water as you can, then toss with 1 tsp oil in a roasting tin. 4 Take out the veg and reduce oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4. Roast the seeds for 5 mins, splash with soy, then cook until dark and crisp, about 5 mins more. 5 Put the veg on a platter and douse with lime juice. Sit the feta on top, spoon the oil around and sprinkle with the seeds. Serve with crusty bread or flatbreads. GOOD TO KNOW calcium • folate • ibre • vit c • 2 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 422 kcals • fat 29g • saturates 10g • carbs 21g • sugars 13g • ibre 8g • protein 15g • salt 1.5g

To use up the citrus peel… make preserved lemon & lime squeezes, below.

MAKES 2 litres PREP 5 mins COOK 2 hrs EASY V G

Preserved lemon & lime squeezes This is a canny way to make the most of leftover wedges and skins from the brunch recipe and the lamb recipe on p50. You only cook with the rinds of preserved lemons, so as long as you add some juice from a couple of whole fruits, it doesn’t matter that they are already squeezed.

Juice 2 whole lemons or limes and keep the juice, skins and pulp. Cut all the fruit you’re using into equal-sized chunks. Layer the lemon and lime pieces in a with 75g flaky sea salt in a sterilised 500g jar (see p112). Pour in the juice to cover the shells, adding a few tbsp boiled cooled water to top up if needed. Press down well to remove any trapped air. Seal, shake, then add more salt if needed as some dissolves into the juice. Mature in the fridge for a least 1 month, shaking every day for the first week, then every few days after that. The preserved lemons and limes are ready when the white pith has turned translucent. Use only the rind part of the fruit when you cook.

be inspired use-it-all meal plan

Teatime treat Pineapple passion bundt The secret to baking with pineapple without ending up with a soggy cake is to roast it to evaporate some juice and boost the flavour. You can use the trimmings in a refreshing drink (see p50), and can plant the leafy top. SERVES 16 PREP 15 mins plus cooling COOK 1 hr 15 mins EASY G

For the sponge 1 small, ripe pineapple (300g pineapple after trimmings) 250g unsalted butter, softened 350g self-raising lour, plus 1 tbsp 100ml whole milk seeds and juice of 2 passion fruits 250g golden caster sugar

4 large eggs, at room temperature seeds from 1 vanilla pod, or 1 tsp vanilla extract For the icing 100g icing sugar seeds and juice of 1 passion fruit 2 3 tsp whole milk

1 Heat oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4. Top and tail the pineapple, then use a serrated knife to cut away the skin. Cut the flesh into eight wedges and remove the central core from each wedge. Slice the pineapple into small pieces about the thickness of a £1 coin, then roast on a baking tray for 20 mins until drier and golden. Leave to cool. 2 Rub 1 tbsp of the butter around the inside of a 25cm bundt tin. Sprinkle in 1 tbsp flour, then turn the pan on its side and roll it, tapping gently, to move the flour around and coat the butter. Tap out any excess. 3 Mix the milk with the passion fruit and set aside for a few mins – the acidity of the juice will sour the milk

a little. With electric beaters, beat together the rest of the butter and the sugar in a bowl until light and fluffy. Add the flour, milk and passion fruit mixture, eggs, vanilla and 1/4 tsp salt. Beat briefly until creamy and smooth, then fold in the pineapple pieces. Spoon the mix into the tin and level the top. 4 Bake the bundt for 50-55 mins until risen, golden and a skewer inserted into the deepest part of the cake comes out clean. Sit the tin on a cooling rack until the cake is barely warm. 5 Sift the icing sugar into a large bowl, then make a well in the middle and slowly mix in the passion fruit and milk to make a smooth, flowing glaze. Turn the cake onto a plate, brush with the glaze and leave to cool and set. PER SERVING 327 kcals • fat 15g • saturates 9g • carbs 42g • sugars 25g • ibre 2g • protein 5g • salt 0.3g

To use up the pineapple skins and vanilla pods… make golden pineapple & vanilla iced tea, p50.

MAY 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 47

Dinner for 4 Grilled sea bass, crisp potato skins & crab butter Delicate fish eaten with the skin on, and potato skin chips so crisp they rustle in the pan – zero-waste eating can be seriously tasty when you choose your ingredients wisely. SERVES 4 PREP 30 mins COOK 40 mins EASY

For the potatoes 1kg Maris Piper potatoes (you will use these on Sunday too) 2 tbsp vegetable oil handful thyme sprigs, plus a few leaves to serve good sprinkle of laky sea salt For the sea bass 1 salad onion, white part inely chopped (see p52 and right for what to do with the rest) 2 tbsp white wine vinegar 4 sea bass illets (or another ish from the counter that can be eaten with its skin on), descaled 50g butter, softened 100g pot prepared white and brown crabmeat (we used Fifty Fifty) olive oil

1 Heat oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4. Cut the ends from the potatoes and keep. Cut the peel and 1cm flesh from the potatoes, leaving blocky barrels of potato behind (you need 500g of skins today and 500g potato tomorrow). On a shallow baking tray, massage

the skins and potato ends with the oil, salt and thyme sprigs. Roast for 30 mins, turning halfway through, until tender and starting to crisp. Set aside until later. 2 Simmer the salad onion with the vinegar until reduced to 1 tsp or so. Strain the vinegar into the butter (keep the onion),add the crab and some seasoning, and mash well. Chill until needed. 3 Heat grill to high – make sure it’s really hot before you cook the fish. Slash the skin of each fillet three times and season. Put the potatoes under the grill for 2 mins or until hot and starting to crisp again, then lay the fish fillets on top. (If your grill doesn’t go very high, fry your fillets, skin-side down, in a non-stick frying pan to crisp it up before putting them on top of your potatoes.) Pour olive oil over the fish, and grill for 4 mins or until opaque with the skin crisping. 4 Dollop 1/4 of the crab butter onto each fillet, then grill for 1 min until the butter begins to melt. Using a fish slice, transfer the fish to warmed plates to serve, with the potato skins, a few thyme leaves and the charred onion & tomato salad (right). GOOD TO KNOW ibre • gluten free PER SERVING 635 kcals • fat 29g • saturates 10g • carbs 48g • sugars 2g • ibre 10g • protein 40g • salt 1.5g

To use up the potatoes… make the pan-fried potato gnocchi, p52.

reader offer Love your leftovers Preserve your food for storage in the fridge, freezer or pantry. Place food in the clear bags (3m roll included) and the sealer will remove the air and seal the bag, prolonging the life of your food and keeping it fresh and full of lavour. You can even use the bags to marinate, or place them in water for sous-vide cooking. Also available: 5m twin-pack of sealer rolls. Measures W38 x D16.4 x H8cm and comes with a two-year warranty. G0212 – Vacuum sealer £47.99 G0214 – Spare sealer rolls £9.99

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tip Peeled potatoes will turn black if you leave them out and exposed. Rub with a little vinegar or lemon juice, then put them in a bag and squeeze out the air.

Charred onion & tomato salad Unlike normal spring onions, chunky salad onions don’t need their outer leaves stripped (zero waste – tick) and won’t wilt once cooked. Leave the roots on if there are any – they’re edible and add interest to the dish. SERVES 4 PREP 10 mins COOK 10 mins EASY V

2 bunches salad onions, trimmed, roots and green parts reserved for Sunday 270g pack mixed small tomatoes, halved 50g bag watercress For the dressing leftover steeped onion from the sea bass recipe (left) 2 tsp white wine vinegar 2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil tsp wholegrain or Dijon mustard good pinch of golden caster sugar

1 Heat a non-stick frying pan until very hot. Cut the salad onions in half lengthways and cook for about 21/2 mins each side, cut-side first, until charred and tender. Transfer to a plate while you prepare the rest of the salad. 2 Cook the tomatoes, cut-side down, for 30 secs-1 min until just softened and caramelised, then set aside with the onions. 3 To make the dressing, put all the ingredients into a jar with some seasoning and shake well. When ready to serve, pile the watercress, onions and tomatoes onto a platter. Give the dressing a quick shake, then drizzle it all over the salad. GOOD TO KNOW healthy • vegan • vit c • 2 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING 81 kcals • fat 6g • saturates 1g • carbs 4g • sugars 4g • ibre 2g • protein 2g • salt 0.1g

To use up the salad onions… make braised lamb with spring veg & gremolata, p52. Exclusive price for BBC Good Food readers: only £47.99 (was £49.99), plus £4.95 p&p. To order, call 0844 493 5654 quoting 71316 or visit clifford-james.co.uk/71316.

be inspired use-it-all meal plan

MAY 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 49

Espresso mud cakes, chocolate syrup & ice cream

Golden pineapple & vanilla iced tea

If you like to finish your meal with coffee and dessert, then these little puds have your name on them. Tia Maria or Kahlúa knocking about in the cupboard? Add a splash to the chocolate syrup for a tipsy treat.

Easy to make and full of good things. You’ll never chuck a pineapple into your compost bin again. MAKES 2 3 glasses PREP 5 mins plus steeping and chilling COOK 30 mins EASY

Chop the skin and core left over from the small pineapple used in the cake (p47), plus 1 scraped vanilla pod and put in a pan. Add 600ml water or just enough to cover the fruit and vanilla. Bring to the boil, then cover and simmer for 30 mins, after which the pineapple will be soft and the liquid reduced. Remove from the heat, add 1 English Breakfast tea bag, then steep for 5 mins, or longer if you like. Strain, then sweeten with 1 tbsp golden syrup. Cool, then serve over ice. Will keep in the fridge for up to three days.

SERVES 4 PREP 15 mins COOK 10 mins EASY G uncooked

Homemade vanilla extract Here’s another use for those empty vanilla pods, and a real money-saver if you bake often. Roughly chop 4 scraped vanilla pods and pack into a smallish jar or bottle. Fill with alcohol, about 40% proof (I used 100ml white rum to four pods; vodka would also be good), and seal well. Shake daily. The extract is strong enough to use after just one week, but will benefit from a month of steeping. Store in a cool, dark place.

50g unsalted butter, softened, plus extra for the tin 2 tsp espresso powder, dissolved in 2 tsp hot water, plus extra for the tin 100g chocolate (70% cocoa solids), broken into squares 45g Bournville bar, broken into squares 50g golden caster sugar, plus 1 tbsp 1 large egg, separated seeds from a vanilla pod, or 1 /2 tsp vanilla extract 4 tbsp plain lour, sifted 4 tbsp golden syrup coffee or vanilla ice cream, to serve

1 Heat oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4. Butter four wells of a muffin tin, and sprinkle some espresso powder into each. 2 In a pan, gently melt half of each of the chocolates with the butter until smooth. Stir in 50g sugar, then take off the heat and cool for a few mins. Stir in the coffee, egg yolk, vanilla and flour until even. 3 Beat the egg whites with an electric beaters or a balloon whisk until foamy and thickened. Add 1 tbsp sugar and whisk until it forms shiny soft peaks. Take care not to overwhisk – softer is better if you’re not sure. 4 Stir about 1/3 of the egg whites into the chocolate batter to loosen, then carefully fold in the rest of the whites using a large metal spoon or a spatula. 5 Spoon into the prepared tin, then bake for 10-12 mins or until the cakes are just starting to dome in the middle. Cool the cakes in the tin for 15 mins. In a small pan, melt the remaining chocolates and golden syrup together with 3 tbsp hot water, and whisk until silky smooth. Turn out the cakes and serve warm in a puddle of the syrup and topped with ice cream. PER SERVING 525 kcals • fat 26g • saturates 15g • carbs 64g • sugars 45g • ibre 4g • protein 7g • salt 0.2g

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be inspired use-it-all meal plan

MAY 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 51

Sunday Relaxed lunch Braised lamb with spring veg & gremolata This can be made a day ahead to the end of step 2, leaving you more time to relax. SERVES 4 PREP 30 mins plus marinating COOK 3 hrs EASY

4 lamb shanks 1 tbsp chopped rosemary 2 tbsp olive oil 400g medium carrots, scrubbed and halved lengthways 1 garlic bulb, broken into cloves greens from 2 bunches salad onions, washed and shredded 150ml dry white wine 600ml chicken or lamb stock 140g frozen peas (or podded broad beans) 25g pack lat-leaf parsley, leaves inely chopped, stems reserved 1 lemon, zested then cut into wedges

1 Make several slashes about 1cm deep in each shank, then put them in a large roasting tin. Rub the rosemary, oil and seasoning into the meat. Leave to marinate for 30 mins if you have time. Heat oven to 220C/fan 200C/gas 7.

2 Brown the lamb shanks in the oven for 20 mins, turning halfway. Add the carrots and all but one of the garlic cloves, turn them in some of the fat in the pan, then roast for 5 mins more. Pour in the wine and stock (make sure the carrots aren’t too submerged), then cover the tin tightly with foil. Reduce the oven to 160C/ 140C fan/gas 3 and cook for 2 1/2 hrs or until the shanks are meltingly tender. 3 Chop the parsley, lemon zest and the remaining garlic clove and mix to make the gremolata. Cover and chill until ready to serve. 4 Lift the shanks and carrots from their broth, cover and keep warm. Skim most of the fat from the sauce, then boil the sauce hard for 10 mins in a pan to reduce it by half. Check the seasoning and add the peas and the onion greens for the last few mins. 5 To serve, return the shanks and carrots to the tin, pour over the sauce scatter with the gremolata and squeeze over some lemon juice, if you like. GOOD TO KNOW ibre • vit c • iron • 2 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 590 kcals • fat 36g • saturates 15g • carbs 13g • sugars 10g • ibre 7g • protein 42g • salt 0.5g

Lime & carrot chilli pickle This is an unconventional take on a classic Indian condiment, but after making the other recipes, the only extra you’ll need is a chilli. Great with curries or cold meats. MAKES 1 small jar PREP 20 mins plus soaking and 2 days resting COOK 45 50 mins EASY

Use-it-all-up stock This easy stock isn’t overly strong, but certainly beats a cube or powder. MAKES 2 litres PREP 5 mins COOK 2 hrs EASY

Put the shank bones, any leftover scraps, tomato stalks and tops, parsley stalks, a few thyme sprigs, the ends of the salad onions, a few peppercorns and a chopped carrot into a large pan. Cover everything with cold water, bring to the boil, then simmer for 2 hrs, skimming away any froth now and again. Strain, then boil until reduced by one third.

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Save the lime skins and wedges from the roasted veg and lamb recipes. Chop into small pieces and sprinkle with 2 tbsp flaky sea salt. Set aside for 2 days, then drain and discard the liquid, and rinse the limes well. Heat 2 tbsp vegetable oil in a pan. Add 1 tbsp cumin seeds, 3 sliced garlic cloves, a chopped chilli and 1 tbsp wholegrain mustard, and fry for 2 mins. Tip in the limes, 100g carrot in small chunks, 100ml white wine vinegar and 200g golden caster sugar, and let the sugar melt (add water to cover if needed). Simmer for 40 mins until the limes are soft and the pickle is thick and dark. Store in a sealed sterilised jar. Mellow for at least one month in a cool, dark place.

Pan-fried potato gnocchi Boiling then cooling homemade gnocchi a day ahead makes it easy for you to pace the cooking. Pan-fry them to a crisp just before you eat. SERVES 4 as a side PREP 30 mins COOK 20 mins EASY V

500g Maris Piper potatoes (left over from Saturday), cut into even-sized pieces 1 large egg, beaten 125g plain lour, plus plenty of extra for shaping splash of olive oil knob of butter, for frying few rosemary leaves, optional

1 Steam the potatoes for 15-20 mins until tender. Mash well, ideally with a ricer, which will give fluffier gnocchi. Add the egg and some seasoning, mix briefly with a fork, then sift over the flour and bring together to make dough. It should feel dry to the touch but not crumbly. Add more flour if needed, then knead a few times on a floured work surface. 2 Bring a large pan of water to the boil. Split the dough into tennis-ballsized pieces, then roll into fingerwidth ropes. Dust with a little flour, then cut into bite-sized pieces. Boil in batches for about 1 min or until they bob to the surface. Lift from the pan with a slotted spoon and leave to cool in a single layer on a large plate or tray. Drizzle the oil over the cooled gnocchi and toss gently with your hands to coat. 3 When ready to serve, heat the butter in a frying pan, add the rosemary (if using), then fry the gnocchi in a few batches until crisp and golden. Keep warm and serve with the lamb. PER SERVING 293 kcals • fat 6g • saturates 2g • carbs 50g • sugars 2g • ibre 3g • protein 8g • salt 0.8g

be inspired use-it-all meal plan

MAY 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 53

be inspired use-it-all meal plan

Peanut butter berry crisp Using crunchy peanut butter in place of some of the fat in this Americanstyle crumble works on many levels. Serve with pouring or clotted cream. SERVES 4 PREP 10 mins COOK 30 35 mins EASY G

For the illing 400g bag frozen blueberries 1 tbsp corn lour 2 tbsp golden caster sugar 400g bag frozen raspberries For the topping 100g plain lour 50g porridge oats (not the chunky ones) 50g golden caster sugar 85g crunchy peanut butter 50g unsalted butter, melted pouring or clotted cream, to serve

1 Heat oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4. Put the blueberries, cornflour and sugar in a pan and heat for 5 mins until the berries have defrosted and their juices are starting to simmer and thicken. Stir in the raspberries, bring to a gentle simmer, then tip the fruit into a baking dish, about 20 x 25cm. 2 For the topping, mix the flour, oats, sugar and a pinch of salt in a large bowl. Rub in the peanut butter using your fingers until the mixture looks like fine crumbs. Pour the melted butter over, and work everything to a lumpy mix with your fingers, ensuring there are no dry crumbs left. Scatter over the fruit, then bake for 25-30 mins until golden and crisp and the fruit is bubbling at the edges. Leave for 5 mins before serving with pouring or clotted cream.

Food styling JANE HORNBY Styling SARAH BIRKS

GOOD TO KNOW ibre • vit c • 2 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 563 kcals • fat 24g • saturates 9g • carbs 70g • sugars 34g • ibre 10g • protein 12g • salt 0.2g

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A Family Recipe for 900 Years Le Gruyère AOP Switzerland - a centuries-old tradition of artisanal cheesemaking.

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tom kerridge’s

New ways with chicken We know you love chicken – it’s the most searched-for ingredient on our website – so we asked BBC chef Tom Kerridge to give us his favourite recipes photographs CLARE WINFIELD

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hicken is, without a doubt, the nation’s favourite meat. Since my childhood it has become a lot more convenient to buy and cook and certainly isn’t restricted to the once-a-week, whole bird you only ate on Sunday. It’s easy to see why – it’s so versatile, with the different cuts taking on different roles in a recipe. Breast meat, a prime cut of lean protein, when cooked quickly and well can’t be beaten. The dark meat on the legs, which has loads more flavour than the breast needs longer cooking to make it tender. And if you cook the wings, you get the best of both: the leaner part and the dark meat that falls off the bone. I’m a firm advocate of animal welfare, and when it comes to chicken, the more you pay, generally the higher the welfare. But I also don’t feel anyone should be pressurised into overspending, so buy whatever you can afford.

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Good Food contributing editor Tom Kerridge is a regular BBC presenter and chef-owner of The Hand & Flowers and The Coach – both in Marlow, Buckinghamshire. His latest book, Tom Kerridge’s Dopamine Diet (£20, Absolute Press), is out now. @ChefTomKerridge

be inspired tom kerridge

One-pot poached spring chicken Chicken, rich buttery broth and spring vegetables, all cooked in one dish – this is a really nice way to cook a whole bird, and helps to keep it succulent. The one thing that divides people about poached chicken is the flabby skin. My trick for that is to blast it with a blowtorch at the end, which makes it crisp. SERVES 5 6 PREP 25 mins COOK 2 hrs 10 mins MORE EFFORT 100g butter 1 large chicken, about 2kg 15 Jersey Royal potatoes, scrubbed and halved 100g smoked bacon or pancetta lardons 1 thyme sprig

6 white peppercorns 3 bay leaves 250g carrots, tops cut off, halved lengthways 200g bunch small turnips, peeled and halved 150g podded peas 150g podded and peeled broad beans 8 spring onions, topped and tailed, then cut into 2cm lengths 8 asparagus spears, trimmed small handful parsley leaves, chopped 1 small tarragon sprig, leaves picked 1 lemon, cut in to wedges, to serve

1 Melt the butter in a small pan, discard the milky liquid, then pour the golden fat into a bowl and set aside – this is clarified butter. Heat oven to 150C/130C fan/gas 2. Sit the chicken in a large flameproof casserole dish, breast-side up, and arrange the potatoes and bacon around it. Pour over 1 litre of water. Add the thyme, pepper and bay,

drizzle over the clarified butter and season everything with sea salt. Transfer the dish to the hob and heat until the liquid is starting to simmer. Cover the dish, cook in the oven for 1 hr 15 mins, then add the carrots and turnips. Pop the lid back on and put it back in the oven for another 35 mins. 2 Scatter the peas, broad beans, onions and asparagus around the chicken, submerging them in the liquid, then cover and return to the oven for a further 10-15 mins or until the vegetables are just cooked. 3 Remove from the oven, leave to stand for 5 mins, then carefully lift the chicken from the broth onto a board. If you want to crisp up the skin, blast it with a blowtorch. Stir the parsley and tarragon through the broth. Serve in the middle of the table with the vegetables and broth, and offer lemon wedges for squeezing over. GOOD TO KNOW ibre • 2 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING (6) 578 kcals • fat 37g • saturates 16g • carbs 21g • sugars 5g • ibre 8g • protein 36g • salt 0.7g

MAY 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 57

Tom’s hot wings Who doesn’t love hot wings? If I see them on a menu, I have to order them. Authentically they are deep-fried, but that’s a step too far even for me at home, plus I’ve worked out a way of roasting them that still gives them some crunch. SERVES 4 as a starter PREP 30 mins plus overnight marinating COOK 50 mins MORE EFFORT

Chicken schnitzel Caesar I’ve taken the crowd-pleasing flavour of a Caesar salad and upped the ante by swapping the crunch of the croutons for crispcoated chicken. Make a big batch and freeze the schnitzels, layered between sheets of parchment. You can then pan-fry them from frozen. The Caesar dressing makes more than you need, but it will keep for three days. SERVES 2 PREP 30 mins plus resting COOK 11 mins MORE EFFORT G (schnitzels only

2 skinless chicken breasts, about 150g each 30g plain lour 2 eggs, beaten 75g panko breadcrumbs 1 egg yolk 1 tbsp Dijon mustard 1 tbsp cider vinegar 1 large garlic clove, inely grated 125ml olive oil 75g parmesan, 25g inely grated, 50g shaved 4 salted anchovies, inely chopped 3 tbsp vegetable oil 20g butter lemon, juiced 1 large Little Gem or cos lettuce, broken into bite-sized pieces 4 cured anchovies (optional) lemon wedges, to serve

58 bbcgoodfood.com MAY 2017

1 Place a chicken breast between two sheets of cling film. Using a rolling pin or meat tenderiser, bash it gently until about 1cm thick and evenly flattened. Put the flour, eggs and breadcrumbs in three shallow bowls. Season the flour and mix well. Dip one of the chicken breasts into the flour, then the egg, making sure it’s fully coated, then finally into the breadcrumbs. Set aside, then repeat with the other chicken breast. 2 To make the Caesar dressing, tip the egg yolk, mustard, vinegar and garlic into a mixing bowl. Whisk together, then slowly drizzle in the oil, whisking constantly, until you have a loose mayonnaise. Fold in the anchovies and grated parmesan, give it a good stir, then set aside. 3 Heat the oil and butter in a frying pan, add the chicken and fry for 3-4 mins until golden. Turn over and cook for a further 3 mins, then remove from the pan. Tip the lemon juice into the pan, sizzle, then spoon over the schnitzels. Leave to rest for 4 mins. 4 Put the schnitzels on plates with some lettuce on the side, then scatter over the shaved parmesan and cured anchovies, if using, and spoon over some dressing. Serve with lemon wedges for squeezing over. GOOD TO KNOW calcium • folate • ibre • iron • 1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 985 kcals • fat 60g • saturates 16g • carbs 42g • sugars 5g • ibre 8g • protein 65g • salt 3.0g

12 jumbo chicken wings 280ml buttermilk For the spice mix 75g corn lour 1 tbsp smoked paprika 1 tsp each dried basil, dried oregano and dried sage 2 tsp each chilli powder, garlic powder and onion salt tsp ground white pepper For the glaze 100g honey 1 tbsp soy sauce 3 tbsp ketchup 100ml sriracha sauce blue cheese dip, to serve (optional), visit bbcgoodfood.com for a recipe

1 Put the chicken wings, buttermilk and 1/2 tsp salt in a bowl and toss together to coat. Cover and leave in the fridge overnight. 2 Heat oven to 200C/180C fan/ gas 6. Put all the ingredients for the spice mix in another large mixing bowl with a pinch of salt and mix well. Remove the wings from the fridge and, one at a time, roll them in the spice mix. Once fully coated, tip onto a baking tray lined with baking parchment, and roast for 35 mins. Meanwhile, mix the ingredients for the glaze together. 3 Once the wings have browned, remove them from the oven and generously brush with the glaze. Reduce oven to 180C/160C fan/ gas 4, put the wings back in and cook for a further 15 mins or until the glaze has gone sticky and is starting to caramelise. Remove the wings from the oven and rest for a minute or so. Serve with a blue cheese dip, if you like. PER SERVING 518 kcals • fat 19g • saturates 5g • carbs 52g • sugars 34g • ibre 2g • protein 33g • salt 4.9g

be inspired tom kerridge

MAY 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 59

Pulled chicken with charred-lime guac & crispy skin Unashamedly, there is nothing refined about this recipe – it’s all about big flavours and getting your hands messy. For added crunch, and because I hate food waste, I’ve used the chicken skin to make some spiced chicken crackling to go on top. It makes an incredible snack in its own right. SERVES 4 PREP 50 mins plus resting COOK 1 hr 30 mins EASY

8 skin-on and bone-in chicken thighs 120g tomato ketchup 90g American mustard 1 tbsp chopped coriander 1 tsp smoked paprika, plus 2 tsp for the chicken skin 1 tsp each cayenne pepper and garlic powder 2 tbsp red wine vinegar For the guacamole 4 limes, halved 2 large, ripe avocados, stoned and peeled pinch of dried chilli lakes small pack coriander, chopped

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For the salsa cucumber, peeled, deseeded and diced 2 medium green chillies, deseeded and inely chopped 1 garlic clove, crushed 1 tbsp olive oil 2 limes, juiced To serve 8 large corn tacos, warmed soured cream

1 Remove the chicken skin from the thighs carefully, keeping them as intact as possible, and set aside. Heat oven to 160C/140C fan/ gas 2. Mix the ketchup, mustard, coriander, spices and vinegar with 100ml water in a casserole dish, then add the chicken and mix until well coated. Cook in the oven, uncovered, for 1 hr 20 mins. 2 Meanwhile, spread the reserved skins out on a baking tray lined with parchment, then sprinkle with the paprika and a pinch of sea salt. Place another sheet of parchment on top, followed by another baking tray. Put in the oven on a shelf above the chicken and cook for 40 mins or until completely crisp. 3 For the guacamole, heat a griddle or frying pan until extremely hot.

Put the limes in the pan, cut-side down, to char, then set aside. Mash the avocado with the juice from half the charred limes, the chilli flakes and half the coriander. Season to taste. 4 For the salsa, mix all the ingredients with the remaining coriander and leave for 20 mins to infuse. 5 Once the chicken is fall-apart tender, remove from the oven and leave until cool enough to handle. Using a fork, pull the meat away from the bone and shred through the sauce. 6 To serve, pile a large spoonful of guacamole onto a taco, add some pulled chicken, then top with the salsa, some chicken crackling and soured cream. Serve the remaining charred limes on the side for squeezing over. GOOD TO KNOW ibre • vit c • 2 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING 508 kcals • fat 37g • saturates 8g • carbs 15g • sugars 10g • ibre 8g • protein 25g • salt 1.4g

Next month: Tom tackles pies, tarts & quiches

&

Tom will be cooking at the BBC Good Food Shows at Harrogate HIC (5 7 May) and Birmingham NEC (15 18 June). Visit bbcgoodfoodshow. com to book tickets. Readers get a discount – ind out more on p116

Food styling BECKS WILKINSON Styling WEI TANG

be inspired tom kerridge

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star ingredient

Rhubarb, rhubarb! Diana Henry creates gin, a main course and a pud, all made with rhubarb photographs CLARE WINFIELD

hubarb plants can be pretty ugly. I don’t mean the candy-pink rhubarb grown in the dark in forcing sheds (and harvested in flickering candlelight). With their slender stalks and pale green leaves, these are the debutantes of the rhubarb world, tended with the utmost care until they’re ready to be launched into the world. Forced rhubarb is delicately flavoured and fetches a high price. It arrives in the middle of winter, just when we need brightness and sharpness. In May we are on to main crop rhubarb, grown outside. It’s coarser – it can be stringy – and the colour varies from deep red to khaki green. I love an underdog

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and it irks me that main crop rhubarb is regarded as some kind of ‘also-ran’. If you can find stalks with a good colour – shop in a greengrocer’s rather than from a supermarket – it can be as stunning as the pale pink stuff. Cookery writer Jane Grigson – and this pains me – couldn’t get past the fact that rhubarb was served up in that very English way, with the notion that it was ‘good for you’, not a fruit to love but one to tolerate. She never liked it, although she conceded that it makes a good preserve when paired with citrus (get your hands on a copy of the Chez Panisse Fruit book if you want a recipe; the rhubarb & grapefruit jam is wonderful).

My mum, a lover of the tart and the sour, made no distinction between the gorgeous early pink stuff and the greener main crop. It grew in the garden of my first home and I couldn’t understand why my parents had such a big patch of it. With its big leaves it looked like a weed, or a plant from another planet. But I was glad of it served under sweet pastry – it is simply the best fruit to pair with pastry – or a blanket of almond crumble. Here rhubarb tends to get the sweet treatment, but I love it in savoury dishes. Iranians put it in stews, using it like a vegetable (which it is) – and it’s a great accompaniment to oily fish, pork and lamb too.

Rhubarb gin, p64 62 bbcgoodfood.com MAY 2017

be inspired star ingredient

Russian shashlik with rhubarb sauce, p64 MAY 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 63

Rhubarb gin Use this to make a G&T with a difference, or top it with soda water. Rhubarb garnish optional! MAKES 2 litres PREP 10 mins plus 4 weeks infusing NO COOK

1kg pink rhubarb stalks 400g caster sugar (don’t use golden – it muddies the colour) 800ml gin

1 Wash the rhubarb, trim the stalks and discard the base and any leaves. Cut the stalks into 3cm lengths. Put in a large jar with the sugar. Shake everything around, put the lid on and leave overnight. The sugar will draw the juice out of the rhubarb. 2 After 24 hrs, add the gin, seal and shake everything around. Leave for about 4 weeks before drinking. You can strain the liquor off through a muslin-lined sieve and transfer to a bottle, but I often just leave the rhubarb and booze in the jar and ladle it into drinks that way. Over time the rhubarb and the gin go a much paler colour – this doesn’t look as dramatic. The upside is you that have to get through it fairly quickly! GOOD TO KNOW vegan • gluten free PER 25ML SERVING 63 kcals • none • saturates none • carbs 7g • sugars 7g • ibre none • protein none • salt none

64 bbcgoodfood.com MAY 2017

Russian shashlik with rhubarb sauce

Rhubarb and ricotta bread & butter pudding

If you use skewers often, it’s worth buying a metal set. Or you can use wooden ones soaked in water. d raita in chapatis.

SERVES 8 PREP 25 mins plus resting COOK 50 mins

SERVES 6 PREP 20 mins plus a few hrs marinating COOK 40 mins

For the shashlik 1 small onion 4 garlic cloves 200ml plain yogurt 4 tbsp white wine 1 tsp cayenne pepper 3 crumpled bay leaves 750g lamb leg, cut into 2.5cm cubes 4 tbsp olive oil latbreads and yogurt, to serve For the rhubarb sauce 200ml cider vinegar 200g granulated sugar 1 cinnamon stick 2.5cm piece ginger, peeled and grated 1 red onion, very inely sliced 350g trimmed rhubarb, cut into 4cm lengths about 10 mint leaves, torn

400g rhubarb 150g golden caster sugar 300ml whole milk 300ml double cream tsp vanilla extract 3 large eggs, plus 1 egg yolk about 250g bread (soft white rolls, sliced bread, or brioche) 35g butter 200g ricotta 25g icing sugar, plus extra for dusting 1 lemon and 1 orange, zested crème fraîche, or cream and Greek yogurt, to serve

1 Grate the onion and crush the garlic cloves, then put in a bowl with all the shashlik ingredients except the lamb and half the olive oil, and mix together. Put the lamb in the mixture, turning it with your hands, then cover with cling film and put in the fridge to marinate for a few hours or overnight. 2 For the rhubarb sauce, put the vinegar and sugar in a pan and bring to the boil, stirring a little to help the sugar dissolve. Add the cinnamon and ginger, and simmer for 10 mins. Add the onion and continue to simmer, uncovered, for 10 mins. Add the rhubarb and simmer gently for about 4 mins more or until the rhubarb is only just tender. Don’t overcook the fruit as you want the pieces to remain intact. Add the mint and leave to cool. The mixture will thicken a little more. 3 Lift the lamb out of the marinade, shaking off the excess. Thread the meat onto skewers. Brush a griddle pan with some of the remaining oil and cook the skewers, seasoning them well and turning for 5-7 mins until brown all over – you may have to do this in batches. Serve with the rhubarb sauce, flatbreads and yogurt.

1 Trim the rhubarb and cut it into 3cm pieces. Heat 100ml water in a pan with 50g of the sugar. Bring to the boil and add the rhubarb. Simmer for 11/2 mins, then carefully lift the rhubarb out with a slotted spoon. Arrange it on a plate or tray so that it can lie in a single layer (if you keep the pieces too close to each other, they’ll continue to cook and soften – you want them to stay intact). 2 Put the milk and cream in a heavy-bottomed pan, add a pinch of salt and bring to the boil, then add the vanilla. Beat the eggs, extra yolk and the rest of the sugar together in a bowl. Pour the warm milk and cream onto this, stirring all the time. Heat oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4. 3 Butter the bread. Drain the ricotta (if there is any liquid on top), then add the icing sugar to it. Spread the buttered bread thickly with ricotta. Sprinkle the citrus zest on top, then layer these slices with the rhubarb in a 20 x 30cm ovenproof dish. Pour the egg and cream mixture through a sieve and leave to sit for 30 mins (this makes the pudding lighter). 4 Put the dish in a roasting tin. Add enough boiling water to the tin to come halfway up the sides of the dish. Bake for 40-45 mins or until puffy and set on the top, and golden in colour. Leave to cool for about 10 mins (the pudding will continue to cook and ‘set’ during this time). Dust with icing sugar and serve with crème fraîche, or cream mixed with Greek yogurt.

GOOD TO KNOW 1 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING 459 kcals • fat 20g • saturates 6g • carbs 40g • sugars 39g • ibre 2g • protein 27g • salt 0.2g

GOOD TO KNOW calcium PER SERVING 489 kcals • fat 32g • saturates 18g • carbs 39g • sugars 26g • ibre 2g • protein 11g • salt 0.7g

Portrait CHRIS TERRY | Food styling BECKS WILKINSON Styling WEI TANG

Good Food contributing editor Diana Henry is an award-winning food writer. Every month she creates exclusive recipes using seasonal ingredients. Her tenth book, Simple (£25, Mitchell Beazley), is out now. @DianaHenryFood

be inspired star ingredient

MAY 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 65

MasterChef makeover

Friday night rice BBC MasterChef judge John Torode takes a popular weeknight dish that uses up leftovers and smartens it up for the weekend photograph STUART OVENDEN

S

o this month I’m doing one of my favourite things: transforming leftovers – namely chicken and rice – into something amazing. As my inspiration, I’m taking Good Food’s popular recipe for Monday night rice and making it a bit more special. I’ve added some prawns and chorizo as I think they inject a bit of sparkle, then I’ve completely mixed it up and seasoned it with chicken soup for flavour. I love the original recipe, but as its name suggests, it’s very ‘weeknight’, while I think my new version is definitely a great way to kick off the weekend.

Friday night rice

1 Heat the oils in a large frying pan, add the chorizo and cook gently for 5 mins until the chorizo turns the oil red. Using a slotted spoon, scoop the chorizo out onto a plate. Tip the onion, garlic and ginger into the chorizo oil. Turn up the heat a little, sizzle for 5 mins until the onions are soft, then add the rice and give it a good stir. 2 Stir in the chicken noodle soup and the chickpeas along with 100ml water. Add the chicken, prawns, cooked chorizo and harissa, stir everything together, then cover with a lid and cook for 5 mins. Uncover, stir in the spring onions, then scatter over the coriander and serve. GOOD TO KNOW ibre • 1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 572 kcals • fat 27g • saturates 6g • carbs 35g • sugars 4g • ibre 6g • protein 44g • salt 1.7g

Every month, chef and Good Food contributing editor John Torode reinvents one of the most popular recipes on our website. John has been a judge on BBC One’s MasterChef for 12 years. The series continues on BBC One until Friday 12 May. @JohnTorode1

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3 tbsp vegetable oil 1 tbsp sesame oil 100g cooking chorizo, sliced 1 onion, inely sliced 2 garlic cloves, crushed large piece ginger, inely grated 250g cooked rice (leftover or from a pouch) 51g pack chicken noodle soup (Knorr works well) 400g can chickpeas, drained and rinsed 300g cooked chicken, shredded 200g peeled king prawns 1 tbsp harissa 2 spring onions, sliced on the diagonal small pack coriander, chopped

If you’ve cooked our original Barney’s Monday night rice (bbcgoodfood.com/ recipes/1848/barneys-monday-nightrice), why not try John’s version and let us know which you prefer. Drop us a line at hello@ bbcgoodfoodmagazine. com. Find more of John’s recipes on our website.

Portrait MYLES NEW Food styling JENNIFER JOYCE Styling SARAH BIRKS

SERVES 4 PREP 15 mins COOK 20 mins EASY

be inspired john torode

MAY 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 67

this month’s menu

Carousel

A menu celebrating chicken and doughnuts has to be a wonderful thing, right? That’s the speciality of this London restaurant – with a modern twist and exciting ingredients words LULU GRIMES recipes OLLIE TEMPLETON photographs DAVID COTSWORTH

Menu for 4 Parisian Collins Tomato, smoked mackerel & dashi Grilled chicken with red pepper sauce Churros with dulce de leche & whipped cream

Parisian Collins St-Germain is an elderflowerflavoured liqueur that is easily available, and this is a drink you’ll make again and again – so it’s worth the investment. SERVES 1 PREP 5 mins NO COOK

2 handfuls ice cubes 50ml gin 20ml St-Germain liqueur 20ml lemon juice soda water, to top up lemon zest and mint, to garnish

C

arousel is more than a neighbourhood restaurant, although it’s laid-back vibe and comfortable-but-pared-back interior give it exactly that feel. By night, guest chefs take up residence, bringing new techniques and ingredients to the kitchen. So if you are a chef, it’s one of the most exciting places in the UK to work. This constant stream of information and innovation also gives head chef and co-owner Ollie Templeton (above) plenty of food for thought. Along with his own ethos about ingredients and a playful enjoyment of making great dishes, the lunch menus, under his sole charge, are a seasonal parade of delights. It’s affordable too, with snacks from £3.50, small plates and puddings from £5. Expect foraged ingredients, such as the sea herbs used in the starter here; crosscultural cuisine, as with the Spanish tomatoes and Japanese stock in the same dish; plus the best ingredients served in simple, flavour-packed dishes – this grilled chicken is a blinder. Plus, he makes the best churros you’ll ever taste. carousel-london.com 68 bbcgoodfood.com MAY 2017

1 Put the ice in a shaker or tall glass. Add the gin, liqueur and lemon juice, then either shake or stir. 2 If using a shaker, pour the contents over a fresh glass of ice, top with soda water, then stir again. Add a spring of mint and a twist of lemon zest to serve. GOOD TO KNOW vegan • gluten free PER SERVING 197 kcals • fat none • saturates none • carbs 5g • sugars 5g • ibre none • protein none • salt none

tip If you have a canelle knife, then pare off ribbons of lemon. If not, simply use a peeler, then trim the edges of the peeling straight.

be inspired this month’s menu

Tomato, smoked mackerel & dashi, p70 MAY 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 69

Tomato, smoked mackerel & dashi You can find Japanese ingredients in larger supermarkets or online at japancentre.com; sea herbs can be found on fish counters and at ocado.com. At Carousel, we use Raf tomatoes grown in Spain – they are watered with seawater and have a crunchy texture – but you can use any large, firm, well-flavoured tomato. SERVES 4 PREP 20 mins plus overnight soaking COOK 20 mins A LITTLE EFFORT

2 whole smoked mackerels or 4 illets 1 piece kombu (edible kelp) 1 handful katsuobushi (dried, fermented tuna lakes) 2 tsp soy sauce 2 tsp rice vinegar 4 Raf tomatoes or large tomatoes olive oil, for seasoning sea herbs, such as samphire, sea purslane and sea kale, to serve

1 To make the dashi (stock), soak the kombu in 500ml water overnight. If you have whole mackerel, remove the fillets with a sharp knife, and remove any bones from the flesh (see tip, right, for how to use the bones). 2 The next day, bring the water to a simmer and, the second it bubbles, remove the kombu with tongs, add the katsuobushi and simmer for 8 mins. Take off the heat to rest for a further 8 mins, then strain. Season with soy and rice vinegar, to taste. 3 Meanwhile, heat a grill or frying pan until really hot, and sear the skin of the mackerel fillets, then cut each into three neat pieces. To serve, slice the tomatoes as thinly as possible, lay in the bowls and season with a touch of salt and olive oil. Place the mackerel pieces on top, scatter over a few of the sea herbs and pour over the dashi. GOOD TO KNOW omega-3 • 1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 333 kcals • fat 24g • saturates 5g • carbs 3g • sugars 3g • ibre 1g • protein 25g • salt 2.2g

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Grilled chicken with red pepper sauce, p72

Sea kale

Sea purslane

tip Put the leftover mackerel heads, tails and bones in a low oven on a baking tray until crisp, then infuse them into the dashi for a smoky kick.

be inspired this month’s menu

Churros with dulce de leche & whipped cream, p72

MAY 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 71

be inspired this month’s menu

Grilled chicken with red pepper sauce You’ll need a large stockpot or casserole dish to brine your chicken – you can skip this step, but it will add flavour, keep the flesh succulent and firm up the texture. SERVES 4 PREP 40 mins plus overnight soaking COOK 30 mins MORE EFFORT

100g salt 1 large whole chicken 2 red peppers 20g brown rice miso (we used Clearspring, available at Waitrose and abelandcole.co.uk) 1 tbsp olive oil 1 lemon, juiced 200g garlic mustard leaves, mizuna or other soft green salad leaf, dressed with olive oil and vinegar, to serve

Churros with dulce de leche & whipped cream SERVES 4 PREP 25 mins COOK 20 mins MORE EFFORT

200g dulce de leche 110ml milk 55g butter 100g plain lour 2 tsp golden caster sugar, plus extra for dusting 3 medium eggs, beaten 200ml double cream 2 tbsp icing sugar rapeseed oil, for frying 4 tsp freeze-dried raspberries 100g fresh raspberries, to serve

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1 Make a brine by gently warming 1 litre water in a stockpot, adding the salt and stirring until it dissolves. Let the brine cool to room temperature, submerge the chicken in the liquid and leave to brine in the fridge overnight. 2 The next day, cut off the wings and keep for the stock (see tip, right). Slice down the breastbone with a sharp knife and then slide the blade along the rib cage to loosen the breast a little. Slide the knife blade through the joint where the thigh meets the carcass and cut through the skin so you can take off each breast and leg in one piece with the skin on. Don’t worry too much if the skin doesn’t look perfect. 3 Cut off the drumsticks and use them for another recipe (you can freeze them), then remove the bones from the thigh meat by cutting through the skin and flesh on the underside. You’ll need to gently prise the flesh away from the bone with the tip of a knife. You should now have a breast and thigh piece joined by the skin. Repeat on the other side. Chill until needed.

4 Grill the peppers until the skins are black (this will take about 15 mins), then peel off the skins and remove the seeds and stalks. Blitz the peppers with the miso and olive oil into a paste and balance the flavour with lemon juice. Add a splash of chicken stock (see tip, right) or water to make a saucy consistency. 5 Grill or fry the chicken portions until the skin is crisp and caramelised, press it down on the pan for a flat finish and keep cooking until cooked through. To serve, slice the chicken halfway through the breast and thigh so you have a bit of each per portion, serve with a spoonful of the red pepper sauce and lightly dressed leaves.

1 Put the dulche de leche and 50ml milk in a pan. Whisk over a low heat until you have a smooth mixture, then add 1 tsp sea salt. 2 Melt the butter in the remaining milk with 60ml water. Sift the flour and sugar together. As soon as the butter has melted, add the dry ingredients and beat the mixture to a smooth paste. Take the pan off the heat and beat in the eggs one by one. The dough should be smooth and shiny, and take about three seconds to fall from the wooden spoon when scooped up. Scrape the dough into a large piping bag fitted with a star-shaped nozzle, if you have one – if not, cover and chill until needed (you can do this the night before, if you like).

3 Whip the cream with the icing sugar to a soft peak and set aside. Heat a deep fat fryer or wok filled one-third full with oil until it reaches 160C. Pipe or spoon a few small dollops of dough into the oil and fry them until they are golden brown and puffed up, turning them over as they cook. Lift out with a slotted spoon and drain on paper before tipping into a bowl. Dust the churros with caster sugar and freeze-dried raspberries. 4 To serve, divide the cream between the bowls, place the hot churros on top, spoon over the warm dulce de leche and add a few raspberries.

GOOD TO KNOW folate • vit c • 2 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 447 kcals • fat 25g • saturates 5g • carbs 4g • sugars 4g • ibre 3g • protein 51g • salt 2.8g

PER SERVING 807 kcals • fat 57g • saturates 28g • carbs 60g • sugars 38g • ibre 3g • protein 13g • salt 1.8g

tip To make your own stock, heat oven to 180C/160C fan/ gas 4. Roast the carcass and wings for 40 mins, then put them in a stockpot and cover with cold water. Bring to a simmer and cook for a couple of hours. Strain and reduce the stock until it has a strong lavour – you only need a little to loosen the red pepper purée.

PREMIUM RESTAURANT EVENT

Perfect Father’s Day gift

Join us for lunch at José Pizarro at Broadgate Circle W Enjoy a fabulous Spanish lunch with leading chef José Pizarro on 25 June

e’ve teamed up with one of our favourite chef contributors, José Pizarro, to plan a wonderful Sunday lunch at his buzzing restaurant, José Pizarro at Broadgate Circle – and you’re invited. José’s knowledge and passion for Spanish food is unbeatable, and his four London restaurants are always lively, with guests enjoying jamón, sherry and his signature dishes, including prawn fritters & aïoli. José and his team have created an exclusive menu of dishes to share for this special event. On the day, he will introduce the menu and share his experiences and stories of being a chef, restaurateur and cookbook author, followed by lunch on the terrace. Come and meet fellow food enthusiasts at this sure-to-sell-out event. See you there! • Follow José @Jose_Pizarro

THE DATE Sunday 25 June 2017 THE PLACE 36 Broadgate Circle,

London EC2M 1QS THE TIME 12.30pm THE PRICE £70 per person, £65 for subscribers (see below) – includes a cocktail, menu of sharing dishes with paired wines, plus a goody bag TO BOOK Visit seetickets.com/tour/ bbc-good-food-reader-lunch-at-pizarro or call 0871 231 0847 (calls cost 13p per minute plus network extras).

Sample sharing menu

Ibérico charcuterie & pan con tomate Signature prawn fritters & aïoli Patatas bravas (v) Spinach & mushroom tortilla (v) Chorizo cooked in rioja Meatballs with cuttlefish

BONUS for

Pizarro’s Spanish cheese selection with membrillo (v)

SUBSCRIBERS Another great reason to subscribe to BBC Good Food magazine! Subscribers save £5, paying £65 per person. Turn to page 82 for your subscriber code.

Fruit salad with olive oil & mint ice cream Chocolate pot with olive oil & salt

MAY 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 73

t s i tw Brunch is a lovely meal to sit down to as a family, but it can be tricky if anyone doesn’t eat eggs or dairy. Here are six recipes that don’t contain either – we bet no one will know the difference recipes LULU GRIMES photographs WILL HEAP

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be inspired family brunch

Vegan banana & walnut bread, p78

Cinnamon & blueberry French toast, p78

Breakfast muffins, p80

MAY 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 75

Coconut & banana pancakes Use coconut milk in a pancake instead of egg and milk, and you’ve instantly made it vegan. MAKES 8 10 PREP 10 mins COOK 15 mins EASY V

150g plain lour 2 tsp baking powder 3 tbsp golden caster sugar 400ml can coconut milk, shaken well vegetable oil, for frying 1 2 bananas, thinly sliced 2 passion fruits, lesh scooped out

1 Sift the flour and baking powder into a bowl, and stir in 2 tbsp of the sugar and a pinch of salt. Pour the coconut milk into a bowl, whisk to mix in any fat that has separated, then measure out 300ml into a jug. Stir the milk slowly into the flour mixture to make a smooth batter, or whizz everything in a blender. 2 Heat a shallow frying pan or flat griddle and brush it with oil. Use 2 tbsp of batter to make each pancake, frying two at a time – any more will make it difficult to flip them. Push 4-5 pieces of banana into each pancake and cook until bubbles start to pop on the surface, and the edges look dry. They will be a little more delicate than eggbased pancakes, so turn them over carefully and cook the other sides for 1 min. Repeat to make 8-10 pancakes. 3 Meanwhile, put the remaining coconut milk and sugar in a small pan. Add a pinch of salt and simmer until the mixture thickens to the consistency of single cream. Use this as a sauce for the pancakes and spoon over some of the passion fruit seeds. GOOD TO KNOW vegan PER SERVING (10) 179 kcals • fat 8g • saturates 6g • carbs 23g • sugars 11g • ibre 1g • protein 2g • salt 0.2g

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be inspired family brunch

Chive waffles with maple & soy mushrooms, p78

MAY 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 77

Chive waffles with maple & soy mushrooms If you leave out the chives and mushrooms, these will work as a sweet option with maple syrup, ice cream or berries. You can also use the mixture to make pancakes if you don’t have a waffle iron. SERVES 6 PREP 25 mins COOK 20 mins EASY V

500ml soya milk or rice milk 1 tsp cider vinegar or lemon juice 2 tbsp rapeseed oil 100g cooked, mashed sweet potato 150g polenta 130g plain lour 1 tbsp baking powder

small bunch chives, snipped 1 tbsp maple syrup 2 tsp light soy sauce 6 large mushrooms, thickly sliced olive oil, for frying soya yogurt, to serve (optional)

1 Heat the waffle iron. Mix the soya or rice milk with the vinegar and rapeseed oil (don’t worry if it starts to split), then whisk in the sweet potato mash. Tip the polenta, flour and baking powder into a bowl, mix and make a well in the centre. Add a large pinch of salt, then slowly pour in the milk mixture and whisk to make a batter. Stir in half the chives. 2 Pour enough batter into the waffle iron to fill and cook for 4-5 mins.

Vegan banana & walnut bread Walnuts add texture but you can leave them out if you prefer. SERVES 8 PREP 20 mins COOK 1 hr EASY V

50g coconut oil or sun lower oil, plus extra for the tin 200g self-raising lour 25g ground almonds 1 tsp baking powder 75g light muscovado sugar 4 dates, inely chopped 3 4 very ripe bananas, mashed 3 tbsp soya milk 75g walnut pieces, toasted

1 Heat oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Brush a 450g loaf tin with a little oil then line with baking parchment. 2 Mix the flour, almonds, baking powder, sugar and dates. Beat together the mashed banana and oil, then combine it with the flour mixture. Add the soya milk to loosen the mixture, fold in the walnuts and scrape the mixture into the tin. Bake for 1 hr, covering the top if it starts to look too brown. Insert a skewer into the centre of the cake – it should come out clean. If not, return to the oven and cook for a further 10 mins. Cool for 15 mins before taking it out of the tin. GOOD TO KNOW vegan PER SERVING 315 kcals • fat 15g • saturates 6g • carbs 38g • sugars 18g • ibre 2g • protein 6g • salt 0.3g

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Lift out the waffle, keep it warm and repeat with the remaining mixture until you have six waffles. 3 Meanwhile, mix the maple syrup with the soy sauce. Brush it over the mushrooms and season with pepper. Heat a little oil in a frying pan and fry the mushrooms on both sides until they are browned and cooked through – make sure they don’t burn at the edges. Serve the waffles topped with mushrooms, add a spoonful of soya yogurt, if you like, and scatter over the remaining chives. GOOD TO KNOW vegan • low cal • 1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 227 kcals • fat 8g • saturates 1g • carbs 30g • sugars 7g • ibre 4g • protein 7g • salt 1.2g

Cinnamon & blueberry French toast SERVES 6 PREP 20 mins COOK 20 mins EASY V

3 tbsp maple syrup 150g blueberries 2 tbsp gram lour 2 tbsp ground almonds 2 tsp cinnamon 200ml oat or rice milk 1 tbsp golden caster sugar 1 tsp vanilla extract 6 slices of thick white bread grapeseed oil, for frying icing sugar, for dusting

1 Gently heat the maple syrup and blueberries in a saucepan until the berries start to pop and release their juices, then set them to one side in the pan. Whisk the flour, almonds, cinnamon, milk and vanilla together in a shallow bowl. 2 Heat a little oil in a frying pan. Dip a slice of bread into the milk mixture, shake off any excess and fry the bread on both sides until it browns and crisps at the edges. Keep the slices warm in a low oven as you cook the rest. Serve with the blueberries spooned over and dust with icing sugar. GOOD TO KNOW vegan • low cal PER SERVING 210 kcals • fat 6g • saturates 1g • carbs 32g • sugars 16g • ibre 2g • protein 5g • salt 0.3g

be inspired family brunch

MAY 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 79

Breakfast muffins Make these ahead and freeze them in batches, then you won’t have to get up so early at the weekend! MAKES 12 PREP 25 mins COOK 25 mins EASY V G

150g muesli mix 50g light brown soft sugar 160g plain lour 1 tsp baking powder 250ml sweetened soy milk 1 apple, peeled and grated 2 tbsp grapeseed oil 3 tbsp nut butter (we used almond) 4 tbsp demerara sugar 50g pecans, roughly chopped

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1 Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Line a muffin tin with cases. Mix 100g muesli, light brown sugar, flour and baking powder in a bowl. Combine the milk, apple, oil and 2 tbsp nut butter in a jug, then stir into the dry mixture. Divide equally between the cases. Mix the remaining muesli with the demerara sugar, remaining nut butter and the pecans, and spoon over the muffins. 2 Bake for 25-30 mins or until the muffins are risen and golden. Will keep for two to three days in an airtight container or freeze for one month. Refresh in the oven before serving. GOOD TO KNOW vegan • low cal PER SERVING 224 kcals • fat 9g • saturates 1g • carbs 30g • sugars 15g • ibre 2g • protein 4g • salt 0.1g

Mexican beans & avo on toast SERVE 4 PREP 20 mins COOK 10 mins EASY V

Food styling JENNIFER JOYCE Styling TONIA SHUTTLEWORTH

270g cherry tomatoes, quartered 1 red or white onion, inely chopped lime, juiced 4 tbsp olive oil 2 garlic cloves, crushed 1 tsp ground cumin 2 tsp chipotle paste or 1 tsp chilli lakes 2 x 400g cans black beans, drained small bunch coriander, chopped 4 slices bread 1 avocado, inely sliced

1 Mix the tomatoes, 1/4 onion, lime juice and 1 tbsp oil and set aside. Fry the remaining onion in 2 tbsp oil until it starts to soften. Add the garlic, fry for 1 min, then add the cumin and chipotle and stir until fragrant. Tip in the beans and a splash of water, stir and cook gently until heated through. Stir in most of the tomato mixture and cook for 1 min, season well and add most of the coriander. 2 Toast the bread and drizzle with the remaining 1 tbsp oil. Put a slice on each plate and pile some beans on top. Arrange some slices of avocado on top, then sprinkle with the remaining tomato mixture and coriander leaves to seve. GOOD TO KNOW vegan • healthy • ibre • 3 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 368 kcals • fat 19g • saturates 3g • carbs 30g • sugars 6g • ibre 13g • protein 12g • salt 0.9g

For lots more vegan recipes, visit bbcgoodfood.com

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Subscribe this month to receive a Joseph Joseph spiralizer and citrus catcher. When you subscribe, you join an exclusive club with discounts on wine, travel and restaurants. Every issue includes 70+ recipes – more than any other UK mag – the latest trends, tips from BBC chefs and travel and restaurant guides. Christine Hayes, Editor-in-chief

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easiest ever

Go veggie midweek Cutting back on meat? Try our everyday vegetarian recipes – with options to add extra protein if you want to recipes SOPHIE GODWIN photographs MIKE ENGLISH

Courgette & caramelised red onion tart Save the core of the courgette: you can freeze it to add to the base of a soup later. For an extra kick, top the tart with salami. SERVES 4 PREP 20 mins COOK 35 mins EASY V

plain lour, for dusting 375g block puff pastry 1 egg, beaten 50g butter 3 large red onions, thinly sliced 2 tbsp balsamic vinegar

84 bbcgoodfood.com MAY 2017

1 large courgette, cut into long ribbons with a vegetable peeler 100g goat’s cheese mixed green salad, to serve

1 Heat oven to 200C/180C fan/ gas 6. On a lightly floured surface, roll the pastry out to slightly smaller than an A4 rectangle. Slide onto a baking tray, brush with the beaten egg and cook for 20 mins or until golden. 2 Meanwhile, melt the butter in a frying pan over a medium heat. Once foaming, add the onions with a pinch of salt. Cook, stirring regularly, for 10 mins until soft.

Pour in the balsamic and cook for a further 6-8 mins until sticky and caramelised. 3 Spoon over the pastry, then top with the courgette ribbons and blobs of goat’s cheese. Return to the oven for 15 mins until the cheese is bubbling. Serve with salad. GOOD TO KNOW ibre • 2 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 613 kcals • fat 42g • saturates 23g • carbs 41g • sugars 10g • ibre 6g • protein 14g • salt 1.4g

£1.04 per serving

easiest ever midweek meals

£1.87 per serving

Tex-Mex eggs Leaving the skin on the sweet potato adds texture and minimises waste. If you want to add meat, serve some thinly sliced steak on the side. SERVES 2 PREP 15 mins COOK 15 mins EASY V

2 large sweet potatoes, cut into chunks 1 lime, cut into wedges 1 tbsp vegetable oil 1 red onion, sliced small pack coriander, stalks chopped and leaves picked 1 tsp each smoked paprika and ground cumin 400g can black beans, drained and rinsed 4 eggs 1 avocado, sliced handful cheese tortilla chips and some hot sauce (optional), to serve

1 Put the sweet potato and 1/2 the lime wedges in a microwaveable bowl. Cover with cling film and cook on high for 7 mins until soft. 2 Meanwhile, heat the oil over a medium heat in a large frying pan, add the onion and cook for 5 mins. Stir in the coriander stalks and spices, cook for 1 min more, then tip in the black beans and add some seasoning. Gently stir in the sweet potato (you want some chunky pieces), then make four wells in

the mixture. Crack in the eggs, then cover and cook for about 8 mins until the whites are set and yolks runny. 3 Top with the avocado and coriander leaves, and serve with the remaining lime wedges. Crush over some tortilla chips and drizzle with hot sauce, if you like. GOOD TO KNOW folate • ibre • vit c • iron • 4 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING 753 kcals • fat 31g • saturates 6g • carbs 81g • sugars 36g • ibre 25g • protein 26g • salt 1.3g

MAY 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 85

£1.95 per serving

Asparagus, chilli & feta farfalle

SERVES 2 PREP 5 mins COOK 15 mins EASY V

200g farfalle 2 tbsp olive oil, plus extra to serve 2 garlic cloves, inely chopped 1 red chilli, inely chopped 250g asparagus, woody ends trimmed, cut into small pieces 1 lemon, zested and juiced handful basil leaves 30g pine nuts, toasted 50g feta, crumbled

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1 Bring a large pan of salted water to the boil. Tip in the pasta and cook for 1 min less than pack instructions. 2 Meanwhile, heat the oil in a frying pan over a medium heat. Stir in the garlic, chilli and a pinch of salt, and fry for 1 min until fragrant. Add the asparagus and lemon zest, and cook for 4-5 mins until the asparagus is just tender.

3 Drain the pasta and tip into the asparagus pan. Add the lemon juice, stir through the basil, grind over some black pepper, then divide between bowls. Top with the pine nuts, feta and a drizzle of oil to serve. GOOD TO KNOW folate • ibre • 1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 656 kcals • fat 28g • saturates 6g • carbs 73g • sugars 4g • ibre 9g • protein 23g • salt 0.6g

Food styling PIP SPENCE Styling SARAH BIRKS

Save the woody ends of the asparagus to flavour stock or as a base for soups. Fry diced chorizo along with the garlic and chilli, if you like.

easiest ever midweek meals

Halloumi latbreads Mix any leftover slaw with a grain of your choice for a satisfying salad. Extra hungry? Fry some chicken with the halloumi. SERVES 6 PREP 15 mins COOK 25 mins EASY V

50g pumpkin seeds 2 tbsp cumin seeds 1 small red cabbage (about 650g), core removed, shredded 2 mixed peppers, cut into strips 2 tbsp white wine vinegar 2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil 6 8 latbreads or wraps 2 x 250g blocks halloumi, each cut into 12 strips 100g houmous 80g bag rocket

1 Toast the pumpkin seeds with the cumin seeds in a large frying pan until they begin to pop and smell fragrant, then transfer to a large bowl. Add the cabbage, peppers and vinegar, and season well. Mix thoroughly and set aside. 2 Heat oven to low and put the bread in to warm through. Using the pan you used to toast the seeds, fry the halloumi in batches for 3 mins each side until crispy and golden. Transfer to the oven to keep warm. 3 Spread a layer of houmous on each flatbread and top with a handful of slaw, halloumi and rocket to serve. GOOD TO KNOW calcium • folate • ibre • vit c • 2 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 693 kcals • fat 40g • saturates 16g • carbs 47g • sugars 8g • ibre 8g • protein 32g • salt 4.0g

£1.51 per serving

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Satay noodle soup Throw in some raw king prawns with the noodles for extra protein. SERVES 1 PREP 10 mins COOK 15 mins EASY V

1 tbsp soy sauce, plus extra to serve 2 tbsp peanut butter 1 small lime, zested and juiced 1 tbsp sesame oil, plus extra to serve 2 spring onions, sliced diagonally 1 red chilli, thinly sliced 1 garlic clove, crushed 25g creamed coconut 1 nest dried rice noodles 1 large carrot, cut into long ribbons with a vegetable peeler

1 Mix together the soy, peanut butter, lime zest and juice, then set aside. Heat the oil in a pan over a medium heat, add 1/2 the spring onions, 1/2 the chilli, the garlic and a pinch of salt, and cook for 3 mins. 2 Pour in 450ml water, bring to the boil, then crumble in the coconut. Stir to dissolve, then spoon in the peanut butter mixture. Mix well, drop in the noodles and 1/2 the carrot ribbons, and cook for 5 mins. Season to taste, spoon into a bowl and top with the remaining spring onion, chilli and carrot ribbons. Drizzle over extra sesame oil or soy. £1.74 per serving

Spring tabbouleh Save the parsley stalks for flavouring soups and the mint stalks to make tea. Leftovers will be good for lunch the next day; add leftover roast chicken to make it go further. SERVES 4 PREP 20 mins COOK 25 mins EASY V

6 tbsp olive oil 1 tbsp garam masala 2 x 400g cans chickpeas, drained and rinsed 250g pouch ready-cooked mixed grains 250g frozen peas 2 lemons, zested and juiced large pack each parsley and mint, leaves roughly chopped 250g radishes, roughly chopped 1 cucumber, chopped pomegranate seeds, to serve

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GOOD TO KNOW ibre • 1 of 5-a-day • vegan PER SERVING 708 kcals • fat 41g • saturates 20g • carbs 60g • sugars 18g • ibre 12g • protein 18g • salt 2.4g

1 Heat oven to 200C/180C fan/ gas 6. Mix 4 tbsp oil with the garam masala and some seasoning. Toss with the chickpeas in a large roasting tin, then cook for 15 mins until starting to crisp. Tip in the mixed grains, peas and lemon zest. Mix well, then return to the oven for about 10 mins until warmed through. 2 Transfer to a large bowl or platter, then toss through the herbs, radishes, cucumber, remaining oil and lemon juice. Season to taste and scatter over the pomegranate seeds. Any leftovers will be good for lunch the next day. GOOD TO KNOW vegan • healthy • calcium • folate • ibre • vit c • iron • 4 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 613 kcals • fat 22g • saturates 3g • carbs 74g • sugars 10g • ibre 16g • protein 20g • salt none

£1.69 per serving

easiest ever midweek meals

Roasted broccoli, Puy lentils & tahini yogurt

£1.91 per serving

Leave the stalk on the broccoli when roasting; it takes on a wonderfully nutty flavour. If you want to make it for more people, serve with lamb chops. SERVES 2 PREP 15 mins COOK 35 mins EASY V

1 head of broccoli, cut in half 3 tbsp olive oil 2 tsp smoked paprika 250g pouch ready-cooked Puy lentils 2 tbsp tahini 1 garlic clove, crushed 1 lemon, zested and juiced, and cut into wedges to serve 100g Greek yogurt small pack parsley, leaves roughly chopped 30g almonds, roughly chopped

1 Heat oven to 200C/180C fan/ gas 6. Put the halved broccoli, stalk-side down, on a baking tray. Mix the oil with the paprika and some seasoning, then rub all over the broccoli. Roast for 30 mins until tender and lightly charred. Tip the lentils around the broccoli, sprinkle over 2 tbsp water and cook for 5 mins more until warmed through. 2 Mix the tahini, garlic and lemon zest and juice with the yogurt. Season to taste and add a splash of water to make it a drizzling consistency. Remove the broccoli halves, add the parsley to the lentils and season. Divide between two plates, top each one with a broccoli half and a drizzle of tahini yogurt, then sprinkle over the almonds. Serve with lemon wedges for squeezing over. GOOD TO KNOW calcium • folate • ibre • vit c • iron • 2 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING 752 kcals • fat 43g • saturates 9g • carbs 40g • sugars 11g • ibre 25g • protein 38g • salt 1.4g

MAY 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 89

PAUL HOLLYWOOD IS CALLING ALL BAKERS AND TAKERS Cupcake Day is back 15 June. Rise against dementia and sign up for your free Cupcake Day Fundraising Kit today

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easiest ever quick ixes

Super-speedy dips Whizz these up in minutes – homemade always tastes better! recipes MIRIAM NICE photographs MIKE ENGLISH

MAY 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 91

easiest ever quick ixes Beetroot & chilli salsa

Leafy salsa verde with yogurt

SERVES 4 PREP 10 mins NO COOK V

SERVES 4 6 PREP 10 mins NO COOK V

2 whole cooked beetroots 2 tomatoes 1 red chilli, deseeded 1 orange, peeled 1 /4 cucumber small pack coriander, inely chopped 1 lime, juiced To serve tortilla chips or crisps

GOOD TO KNOW vegan • low fat • folate • vit c • 1 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING 47 kcals • fat none • saturates none • carbs 8g • sugars 8g • ibre 2g • protein 2g • salt 0.1g

tip If you end up with a homegrown glut of beetroot this summer, why not cook your own for this recipe. Heat oven to 200C/ 180C fan/gas 6 and roast (washed but unpeeled) wedges of beetroot tossed in olive oil, salt and pepper for 25 30 mins or until tender.

Curried cashew dip

1 Tip all the ingredients, except the Bombay mix, into a food processor. Blend until smooth, then season to taste. If the mixture is too thick, add a little more lime juice or a splash of cold water.

1 Whizz everything, except the yogurt, in a food processor or using a stick blender until it’s the consistency of fresh pesto. 2 Spoon the yogurt into a shallow serving bowl and spread it out, making swirly indents in the yogurt. Pour

the herby dressing on top so it sits in little pools that you can ripple into the yogurt. Top with a few small basil leaves. Serve with crunchy salad vegetables like radishes, fennel and chicory. GOOD TO KNOW gluten free PER SERVING 136 kcals • fat 12g • saturates 4g • carbs 3g • sugars 2g • ibre none • protein 3g • salt none

Artichoke baba ganoush

SERVES 4 PREP 5 mins NO COOK V

100g cashew nuts 1 2 limes, juiced (approx 50ml) 3 tbsp coconut cream 2 tbsp korma curry paste 2 tbsp Bombay mix To serve chicken skewers, carrot sticks and naan bread

/2 small pack lat-leaf parsley /2 small pack basil, plus a few extra leaves to serve 1 /2 small pack mint 4 tbsp olive oil 2 tbsp white wine vinegar 250g-300g Greek yogurt or labneh To serve radishes, fennel and chicory 1

SERVES 4 6 PREP 5 mins NO COOK V

2 Spoon into a bowl and sprinkle over the Bombay mix before serving with chicken skewers, carrot sticks and naan bread. GOOD TO KNOW vegan PER SERVING 315 kcals • fat 26g • saturates 12g • carbs 9g • sugars 4g • ibre 2g • protein 8g • salt 0.4g

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280g jar chargrilled artichokes in oil 3 tbsp tahini 1 lemon, juiced (approx 50ml) 2 garlic cloves 2 tsp smoked paprika 25g feta To serve latbreads or stuffed vine leaves, olives and falafel

1 Pour 50ml of the oil from the artichokes into a food processor. Add the artichokes and discard the remaining oil. Pour in the tahini and lemon juice, add the garlic and smoked paprika, then blitz until very smooth.

2 Spoon into a bowl and crumble the feta over the top with a few twists of black pepper. Serve with warm flatbreads, or as part of a meze with stuffed vine leaves, olives and falafel. GOOD TO KNOW gluten free PER SERVING (6) 82 kcals • fat 6g • saturates 1g • carbs 2g • sugars none • ibre 3g • protein 3g • salt 0.7g

Food styling BECKS WILKINSON Styling SARAH BIRKS

Cut the beetroot, tomatoes, chilli, orange and cucumber into small chunks, then mix them all together with the coriander and lime juice. Season and serve with tortilla chips or crisps.

1

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Stay wild at heart The Woodland Trust wants a UK rich in native trees for both people and wildlife – and you can help achieve that here’s nothing like taking a moment out of your day to sit under a tree and enjoy the nature around you – it’s the perfect way to bring your stress levels down. The trees are vital to everyones lives, in so many ways. They clean the air and purify the soil, make the cities cleaner and the countryside greener, and provide homes to thousands of rare wildlife species. They also make pretty good dens for kids and give dogs an endless supply of big sticks to carry! The UK’s trees are in crisis, however. They’re under threat from climate change, development, pests and diseases. Official

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tree-planting rates are also at an all-time low. The UK is one of the least-wooded countries in Europe. And without urgent action, the nation’s woodland will begin to disappear. That’s where the Woodland Trust, the UK’s largest woodland conservation charity, comes in. It has promised to plant 64 million new native trees across the country by 2025 – that’s one for every person in the UK. You can play your part by becoming a member of the Woodland Trust today. From just £3 a month – the price of a cup of coffee – you can help the charity look after trees, campaign to save threatened woodland and plant new woods. See the box (right) to find out more about becoming a member.

Become a member today Join the Woodland Trust from just £3 a month for an adult membership. Not only will you help fund the charity’s good work, but you’ll also get a tree dedicated to you, receive a unique guide to British trees, a directory of Woodland Trust woods, four Broadleaf magazines a year, plus regular email updates. You can even upgrade to a family membership from £5 a month, if you’d like to get the kids involved too.

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Romilly Newman started her blog, Little Girl in the Kitchen, aged 11 and now works full time in food. Her recipes have been featured in The New Yorker and Teen Vogue. romillynewman.com @romillynewman @foodbyromilly

new food talent

Romilly’s Moroccan stew Food writer Romilly Newman shares her shortcut recipe for a vegetarian stew inspired by her travels in North Africa photograph ROB STREETER Moroccan chickpea, squash & kale stew This tastes as if it has simmered all day, but in fact it’s quite quick and easy to prepare. I like to serve it over short-grain brown rice or quinoa. If you’re not keen on coriander, use flat-leaf parsley instead.

Portrait RUBY ROSE FOR SPECIWOMEN Food styling JENNIFER JOYCE Styling AGATHE GITS

SERVES 4 PREP 35 mins COOK 50 mins EASY V

4 tomatoes, halved 5 tbsp olive oil 250g butternut squash, peeled and chopped into large chunks 1 tbsp thyme leaves 1 garlic clove, crushed 1 onion, sliced 2 x 400g cans chickpeas, drained 1 bay leaf 1 tbsp ground cumin 1 tsp ground cinnamon 1 /2 tsp turmeric 1 tbsp harissa 1 litre vegetable stock 100g feta, crumbled 1 lemon, zested, then cut into wedges 2 tsp fennel seeds 1 tsp ground coriander 200g cavolo nero, shredded handful fresh coriander leaves, to serve

94 bbcgoodfood.com MAY 2017

1 Heat oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Put the tomatoes on a baking sheet lined with baking parchment, drizzle over 2 tbsp olive oil, season and roast in the oven for 20 mins or until soft. Set aside. 2 Meanwhile, pour 2 tbsp oil into a large saucepan and add the squash, thyme, garlic and onion. Season generously and cook on a low heat for 15 mins or until the vegetables begin to soften (but not brown). 3 Add the tomatoes, chickpeas, bay, ground spices and harissa. Season to taste and pour in the stock. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for 30-35 mins until the liquid has reduced. 4 Put the feta in a small bowl and add the remaining olive oil and the lemon zest. Mix well and set aside. 5 Toast the fennel seeds in a frying pan for 1 min, then lightly crush with a pestle and mortar, or in a bowl with the back of a rolling pin. 6 Add the ground coriander and cavolo nero to the stew and cook for 2 mins. Put the stew in a bowl and top with a scoop of feta, a sprinkling of coriander leaves and fennel seeds, and some seasoning. Serve with lemon wedges on the side. GOOD TO KNOW healthy • low cal • ibre • vit c • iron • 3 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 446 kcals • fat 25g • saturates 6g • carbs 32g • sugars 10g • ibre 14g • protein 17g • salt 1.3g

Last month: Flynn McGarry shared his recipe for lamb with warm potato & olive salad. You can ind it, and the other recipes in our New Food Talent series, at bbcgoodfood.com.

easiest ever vegetarian stew

MAY 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 95

Slow cooker specials There are few more convenient ways to cook than in a slow cooker. We’ve created these three new hassle-free suppers that are ideal for relaxed get-togethers with friends recipes SARA BUENFELD photographs ROB STREETER

Slow-cooked Spanish chicken, p98

96 bbcgoodfood.com MAY 2017

easiest ever slow cooker meals Goan pulled pork Cooked long and slow, the spices and vinegar mellow to create tender, full-flavoured pork, which you can then shred and wrap up with salad and raita in chapatis. SERVES 6 PREP 15 mins COOK 8 hrs 15 mins EASY G

2 tbsp olive oil 1 large onion, halved and sliced 1 garlic bulb, cloves peeled thumb-sized piece ginger, shredded into very thin matchsticks 1 tbsp ground cumin 2 tbsp each smoked paprika and ground coriander -1 tsp cayenne pepper (depending on how hot you like it) 225ml cider vinegar 2kg boneless pork leg or shoulder For the salad 3 carrots, shredded with a julienne peeler or coarsely grated 1 red onion, inely chopped 3 tomatoes, chopped generous handful fresh coriander 1 lemon, juiced 1 tbsp olive oil To serve 12 warm chapatis or small wraps chunky cucumber raita (recipe below) and mango chutney

1 Heat the oil in a large frying pan. Fry the onion, garlic and ginger for about 10 mins. Stir in the spices, pour in the vinegar and stir well. Tip into the slow cooker (we used a 6.5-litre model) and add 1 tsp salt and about 20 turns of a black pepper mill. Add the pork joint, turn in the mixture to coat it, then arrange it in the pot so it is rind-side down. Cover and cook on low for 7-8 hrs. 2 Meanwhile, make the salad. Mix the carrot with the onion, tomato and coriander, then toss just before serving with the lemon juice and oil. 3 Remove the rind and fat from the pork and skim all the fat from the juices, then shred the meat into the juices. To serve, put some meat and salad on one side of a chapatti, then top with the raita and chutney, fold over and eat with your hands. GOOD TO KNOW ibre • iron • 2 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 529 kcals • fat 24g • saturates 7g • carbs 11g • sugars 9g • ibre 7g • protein 65g • salt 1.1g

Chunky cucumber raita If you want to make this ahead, keep the cucumber separate from the herby yogurt until the last minute, otherwise the salt will draw the water from the cucumber and make the mixture too thin. SERVES 6 PREP 10 mins NO COOK V

Tip 500g Greek yogurt into a food processor with 20g mint, 30g coriander and 1/2 tsp salt, then blitz until smooth. Halve 1 cucumber lengthways and remove the seeds with a teaspoon. Discard the seeds, then thinly slice. Stir into the herby yogurt just before serving. GOOD TO KNOW gluten free PER SERVING 122 kcals • fat 9g • saturates 6g • carbs 5g • sugars 4g • ibre 1g • protein 6g • salt 0.5g

MAY 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 97

easiest ever slow cooker meals

This slowly braised meat, which is hugely popular in Mexico, is perfect for making in a slow cooker. We’ve used half a lamb shoulder, but make sure you don’t buy one with the joint attached, as it won’t easily fit it in the cooking pot. This recipe contains dried chillies but it isn’t at all hot. Serve the braise in big bowls with some slaw (below left) on top. SERVES 4 PREP 15 mins COOK 7 hrs EASY G

White cabbage & radish slaw SERVES 4 PREP 10 mins NO COOK V

1 orange, juiced 1 tbsp white wine vinegar 1 red chilli, deseeded and inely chopped (leave out if you don’t like spicy food) 1 red onion, halved and thinly sliced 300g shredded white cabbage 150g radishes, thinly sliced generous handful chopped coriander

Mix the orange juice, vinegar, chilli and onion in a large bowl, and mix with a little salt. Add the cabbage, radishes and coriander, and toss really well. GOOD TO KNOW healthy • low fat • folate • vit c • gluten free PER SERVING 48 kcals • fat none • saturates none • carbs 8g • sugars 8g • ibre 4g • protein 2g • salt none

4 tomatoes, quartered 2 dried ancho chillies, seeds removed (see tip, below) 1 tsp dried oregano 1 tsp cumin seeds 1 garlic bulb, cloves peeled 400ml red wine 1 /2 shoulder of lamb, bone in (about 1.25kg) 50g dark chocolate, broken into squares 1 cinnamon stick 8 large new potatoes, about 450g white cabbage & radish slaw (left), to serve

1 Put the tomatoes, chillies, oregano, cumin and garlic in a food processor with one-third of the wine, add 1 tsp salt and blitz until smooth. 2 Put the lamb in the slow cooker pot (we used a 6.5-litre model). Pour over the chilli mix, then add the rest of the wine with the chocolate, cinnamon stick and whole potatoes. Cover and cook on low for 7 hrs until the lamb is really tender and the potatoes are still firm. 3 To serve, remove the bones and skin from the lamb and pull the meat apart into large chunks. Chop the potatoes into chunks and skim the fat from the cooking juices. Serve the lamb, potato and juices in bowls with the slaw on top.

Slow-cooked Spanish chicken Tangy olives, sweet peppers and spicy chorizo pack plenty of flavour into this dish. Serve it with rice or pasta, even crusty bread if you want to keep it really simple – you won’t want to waste any of the delicious juices. SERVES 6 PREP 15 mins COOK 6 hrs 20 mins EASY G

2 tbsp olive oil 1 Spanish onion, halved and sliced 12 large bone-in chicken thighs, skin removed 225g pack chorizo picante, thickly sliced pack of 3 mixed colour peppers, cut into chunks 150g (drained weight) pitted Spanish pimiento stuffed green olives 300ml dry white wine (serve the rest of the bottle with the meal) 300ml chicken stock 1 tbsp tomato purée

1 Heat the oil in a large frying pan. Fry the onion for about 5 mins until golden. Tip into the slow cooker pot (we used a 6.5-litre model), then fry the chicken and chorizo in the same pan until starting to colour – you will need to do this in two batches. Add to the slow cooker with the peppers and olives. 2 Tip the wine, stock and tomato purée into the pan. Scrape up any bits stuck to the bottom, then tip into the slow cooker, cover and cook on low for 6 hrs. GOOD TO KNOW vit c • 2 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 447 kcals • fat 27g • saturates 8g • carbs 7g • sugars 6g • ibre 4g • protein 34g • salt 2.9g

GOOD TO KNOW iron • 1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 752 kcals • fat 43g • saturates 21g • carbs 24g • sugars 7g • ibre 5g • protein 45g • salt 1.6g

tip If you have trouble getting the seeds out of the dried chillies, pour boiling water over them and leave for just 1 2 mins – they will quickly soften enough to cut them open.

98 bbcgoodfood.com MAY 2017

Don’t have a slow cooker? Our expert team tested a range to ind the best buys. Find our recommendations at bbcgoodfood.com

Food styling JENNIFER JOYCE Styling AGATHE GITS

Barbacoa

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Midsummer feast for friends

Menu for 10, featuring braised barbecue pork shoulder and best-ever cheesecake

Sensational ideas for al fresco crowd-pleasers

Treat him to a big British breakfast, a tandoori chicken shawarma and a giant cookie the kids can make

DON’T FORGET You can download every issue on your iPad and mobile

Healthy summer diet plan • 36 pages • 31 new recipes MAY 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 99

for the Bank Holidays Don’t get caught short! Re ill your wine rack with top-quality bottles – and enjoy exclusive discounts – with the Good Food Wine Club. Here, Henry Jeffreys highlights two wines from this month’s mixed case and suggests a pairing with recipes from this issue

Riversong Riesling 2016

Wine expert Henry Jeffreys, along with the BBC Good Food team, tasted his way through over 100 wines to choose our Wine Club selection. Henry writes about wine for The Guardian and The Spectator, and on his blog, worldo booze.wordpress.com. His irst book, Empire of Booze, is out now. Find Henry’s tasting notes, including food pairings, for all the selected wines at bbcgoodfood.com/wine-club.

Germany’s greatest grape does magical things when transported to Chile, and this wine is a perfect example. It’s made by one of the country’s most prestigious wineries, Luis Felipe Edwards, in a cool part of the Maule valley, not far from Santiago. It is intense and concentrated: tangy and smoky, with zingy limes and honey. Those bright flavours would work beautifully with spicy (but not too spicy) South-east Asian cuisine – such as the satay noodle soup on p88.

1842 Barossa Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 The Barossa valley in South Australia is best known for its shiraz, but it can also do marvellous things with cabernet sauvignon. The 1842 is a uniquely Australian take on this classic French grape. It has the most amazing aroma – menthol, cedar and tobacco – and the palate is all mellow warm spices and blackcurrants. This is lovely with steak or any red meat, particularly the mint chutney, barbecued lamb & potato salad on p42.

Mint chutney, barbecued lamb & potato salad, p42

100 bbcgoodfood.com MAY 2017

Portrait DAVID COTSWORTH

Satay noodle soup, p88

£72

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Spring is in the air, and in this mixed case the Yarrunga Field Special Reserve is the ultimate ‘snoozing in a deckchair while pretending to do the gardening’ wine. We also have a zingy riesling from Chile; and the Visionario, a rich honeyed white blend from the north of Italy. Representing the reds, there are some seriously sophisticated wines: a smooth mature Barossa cabernet sauvignon, an even more mature Gran Reserva from Spain, and a classic red Bordeaux. The case also comes with a free gift of a bottle of prosecco and two elegant Dartington crystal flutes.

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bbcgoodfoodwineclub.com/gfmay or call 03300 242 855 quoting code RNY1A. BBC Good Food Wine Club wines are supplied and delivered by Laithwaite’s. Terms and conditions Introductory offer – new customers (18 years or over) only. One case per household. No further discounts applicable. Free delivery (usually £7.99). Offer ends 31/7/17. Delivery within three working days (except Northern Ireland and the Scottish Highlands). YOUR FUTURE CASES: Every four, eight or 12 weeks, you will be noti ied of the next wine plan selection, which you will automatically receive unless

you request otherwise. You will be charged the appropriate sum for each delivery. Unless otherwise stated, all wines contain sulphites. Visit bbcgoodfoodwineclub.com for full terms and conditions. Laithwaite’s Wine is part of Direct Wines Ltd. Registered in England and Wales. Registered Number 1095091. One Waterside Drive, Arlington Business Park, Theale, Berkshire RG7 4SW.

MAY 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 101

healthy eating

Joe’s protein-packed Cajun chicken Our itness guru Joe Wicks serves up a quick and easy supper with a spicy punch photograph DAVID MUNNS

See Joe Wicks live at the BBC Good Food Show at Birmingham NEC 15 18 June Visit bbcgoodfood show.com

102 bbcgoodfood.com MAY 2017

healthy joe wicks

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one are the days when quinoa was an obscure health food – now it’s available in supermarkets everywhere. You can even buy it ready-cooked in packets, so you don’t have to wait 20 minutes for it to cook. If you can’t get hold of the ready-cooked stuff, just use 100g raw quinoa and boil it following pack instructions. Raw quinoa is available in black, white and red, or a mixture. The high protein content of all quinoa makes this a great meal for building lean muscle.

Cajun spiced chicken with quinoa SERVES 1 PREP 5 mins COOK 10 mins EASY

Portrait S MEDDLE ITV REX SHUTTERSTOCK Food styling ROSIE BIRKETT Styling VICTORIA ALLEN

10g coconut oil 80g red or green pepper, cut into thin strips 300g skinless chicken breast, sliced into 1cm strips 1 /2 tsp Cajun seasoning 250g pouch ready-cooked quinoa 1 lemon, zested and juiced pinch of nutmeg 1 spring onion, inely chopped small pack coriander, roughly chopped

1 Melt the coconut oil in a wok or large frying pan over a mediumhigh heat. Add the peppers and stir-fry for 2-3 mins or until they start to soften. 2 Increase the heat to high and add the chicken along with the Cajun seasoning. Fry for 3-4 mins more or until the chicken is cooked. (Check by slicing into one of the larger pieces to make sure the meat is white all the way through, with no raw pink bits.) 3 Microwave your quinoa following pack instructions. Stir the remaining ingredients through the quinoa, then pile onto a plate and top with the chicken and pepper mix. GOOD TO KNOW folate • ibre • vit c • iron • 1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 730 kcals • fat 19g • saturates 10g • carbs 50g • sugars 6g • ibre 10g • protein 85g • salt 0.6g

& Joe’s book, Lean in 15: The Sustain Plan, and his new DVD, The Body Coach Workout, are out now. Joe will be cooking at the BBC Good Food Show (see left) – visit bbcgoodfoodshow.com to book tickets. Readers get a discount; see page 116 for details.

Good Food contributing editor Joe Wicks, a former personal trainer, is an Instagram phenomenon with 1.7 million followers. His #Leanin15 videos focus on quick, easy cooking – visit thebodycoach.co.uk for your own personalised 90 Day Shift, Shape and Sustain Plan. @thebodycoach

Next month: Joe’s Spanish omelette

MAY 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 103

healthy dinner dash

dinner dash

Asparagus Make the most of a bunch of seasonal asparagus with these speedy suppers recipes ELENA SILCOCK photographs MIKE ENGLISH

Asparagus omelette SERVES 2 V

Heat grill to high. Toss the asparagus in olive oil, season and cook in an ovenproof frying pan until softened. Mix the eggs with half the pesto. Take half of the asparagus out of the pan, then spread out the rest. Pour over half the egg mixture. Cook for a few mins on the hob before finishing under the grill. Fold over, then repeat with the rest of the ingredients. Drizzle the remaining pesto over the omelettes and sprinkle the seeds on top. GOOD TO KNOW calcium • folate • ibre • iron • 1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 763 kcals • fat 64g • saturates 11g • carbs 10g • sugars 6g • ibre 8g • protein 33g • salt 2.3g

+ large bunch of asparagus, sliced in half lengthways

+ 6 large eggs

= +

145g tub fresh pesto

2 x 25g seeds snack packs (we used Munchy Seeds)

Sardine & asparagus traybake SERVES 2

GOOD TO KNOW calcium • folate • ibre • omega-3 • 2 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 700 kcals • fat 36g • saturates 8g • carbs 49g • sugars 5g • ibre 8g • protein 40g • salt 2.5g

+ large bunch of asparagus

2 x 100g cans sardines in olive oil

104 bbcgoodfood.com MAY 2017

=

230g box Greek salad (choose one without leaves)

+

SERVES 4

GOOD TO KNOW folate • ibre • 1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 634 kcals • fat 35g • saturates 19g • carbs 37g • sugars 3g • ibre 6g • protein 40g • salt 1.1g

1 olive & basil focaccia roll (or a lavoured bread roll of your choice)

+

Asparagus & meatball orzo Heat oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4. Put the meatballs on a tray lined with foil, season and cook for 20 mins until cooked through. Meanwhile, bring a pan of salted water to the boil, add the orzo and cook for 4 mins, then add the asparagus and simmer for 4 mins more. Drain, then tip back into the pan along with the meatballs and crème fraîche, mix and season well.

+

pack of 12 pork meatballs

+ 500g pack orzo pasta

+ large bunch of asparagus, sliced in half lengthways

200g tub crème fraîche

=

Food styling BECKS WILKINSON Styling SARAH BIRKS

Heat oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Blitz 2 of the asparagus spears with the bread roll in a food processor into fine green crumbs. Arrange the sardines, remaining asparagus and Greek salad in a roasting tin, and cook for 15 mins. Meanwhile, fry the breadcrumbs in a splash of oil in a pan for 3-4 mins, then sprinkle on top.

healthy diet plan

Skinny mac ’n’cheese diet plan

Who would believe that one of our best-loved comfort food dishes could be low in calories? It contains 3 of your 5-a-day too! recipe SARA BUENFELD photograph MIKE ENGLISH

Healthy mac ’n’ cheese SERVES 2 PREP 10 mins COOK 25 mins EASY V

Food styling BECKS WILKINSON Styling SARAH BIRKS

85g wholewheat penne tbsp rapeseed oil 2 leeks, washed and sliced 50g spelt lour 2 tsp English mustard powder 200ml semi-skimmed milk 80g baby spinach 50g extra-mature cheddar, inely grated 2 tomatoes, quartered if large

1 Cook the pasta following pack instructions. Meanwhile, heat the oil in a medium non-stick pan. Add the leeks, stir well, then cover and cook for about 6 mins or until softened. 2 Put the flour and mustard powder in a small bowl and gradually whisk in the milk. Pour into the pan with the leeks and stir with a wooden spoon until thickened. Continue stirring over a low heat while the pasta cooks. It will seem thick but will be diluted later. 3 Drain the pasta, reserving the cooking water, then stir the paste into the sauce. Add the spinach and 1-11/2 ladlefuls of the water to make a spoonable sauce, then stir over the heat until the spinach has wilted. Stir in most of the cheese and taste for seasoning. 4 Heat the grill. Tip the pasta mixture into a casserole dish, arrange the tomatoes over the top and scatter over the remaining cheese. Grill for 5-10 mins or until bubbling and golden. GOOD TO KNOW low cal • folate • ibre • calcium • 3 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 482 kcals • fat 17g • saturates 7g • carbs 53g • sugars 11g • ibre 10g • protein 23g • salt 0.6g

To follow our healthy diet plan, visit bbcgoodfood.com/ diet-plan-january-2017

MAY 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 105

healthy sandwiches

Packed full of goodness Shop-bought sandwiches can be high in fat, sugar and salt, so we’ve given the great lunchtime favourite a healthy makeover recipes SARA BUENFELD photographs SAM FOLAN

G

rabbing a sandwich at lunchtime can be convenient, but some are not as healthy as they might seem. Chutneys loaded with sugar, and high-fat cheeses and dressings make some high-street sandwiches as calorific as burgers. It doesn’t have to take long to make your own lunch, and it’s an easy way to add nutrients to your diet, especially from veg, which will help you with your 5-a-day.

Herby chicken gyros, p108 106 bbcgoodfood.com MAY 2017

Our healthy sandwiches keep the bread to a minimum but are packed with good things like slow-release energy from lean protein, fish rich in omega-3 and beans, which will keep you full until supper. There are worries that shop-bought bread is high in salt, so keep an eye on portion size. Always go for a fibre-rich loaf rather than refined white bread, which offers no nutrition. Along with thin-cut wholemeal bread, we’ve used wholemeal and seed wraps and pitta, but crispy romaine lettuce also makes a great wrap and is gluten free. Swap mayo for Greek yogurt to cut calories.

healthy sandwiches

Veggie olive wraps with mustard vinaigrette Eat the rainbow when it comes to veg – the more colourful, the more diverse the nutrients you add to your diet. Orange, purple and green are all used here in a seeded wrap. SERVES 1 PREP 10 mins NO COOK V

1 carrot, shredded or coarsely grated 80g wedge red cabbage, inely shredded 2 spring onions, thinly sliced 1 courgette, shredded or coarsely grated handful basil leaves 5 green olives, pitted and halved tsp English mustard powder 2 tsp extra virgin rapeseed oil 1 tbsp cider vinegar 1 large seeded tortilla

1 Mix all the ingredients except for the tortilla and toss well. 2 Put the tortilla on a sheet of foil and pile the filling along one side of the wrap – it will almost look like too much mixture, but once you start to roll it firmly it will compact. Roll the tortilla from the filling side, folding in the sides as you go. Fold the foil in at the ends to keep stuff inside the wrap. Cut in half and eat straight away. If taking to work, leave whole and wrap up like a cracker in baking parchment. GOOD TO KNOW healthy • vegan • low fat • low cal • calcium • folate • ibre • vit c • 3 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 281 kcals • fat 12g • saturates 2g • carbs 31g • sugars 12g • ibre 10g • protein 8g • salt 0.9g

Switch it up Not a fan of olives? Spread the wrap with a nut butter like peanut, almond or cashew instead before adding the illing. Go for a sugar-free butter without palm oil. It will add more protein but also a little extra fat too, so don’t slather on too much.

MAY 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 107

Skinny BLT We’ve replaced the butter and mayo with healthy avocado, which also provides 1 of your 5-a-day, and replaced the bacon with crisp prosciutto, as a little goes a long way!

Herby chicken gyros

SERVES 2 (easily halved PREP 5 mins COOK 4 mins EASY

Although salad might be an obvious choice to pack into a pitta, you need to eat an awful lot of leaves to achieve 1 of your 5-a-day. Instead, go for nutrient-dense veg like peppers and avocado, which you can eat less of and still achieve your target.

4 slices prosciutto 1 small avocado 4 thin slices wholemeal bread (from a small loaf) 2 tomatoes, sliced 1 Little Gem lettuce, shredded

SERVES 2 PREP 10 mins COOK 4 mins EASY

1 large skinless chicken breast rapeseed oil, for brushing small garlic clove, crushed tsp dried oregano 2 tbsp Greek yogurt 10cm piece cucumber, grated, excess juice squeezed out 2 tbsp chopped mint, plus a few leaves to serve 2 wholemeal pittas 2 yellow or red tomatoes, sliced 1 red pepper from a jar (not in oil), deseeded and sliced

1 Cut the chicken breast in half lengthways, then cover with cling film and bash with a rolling pin to flatten it. Brush with some oil, then cover with the garlic, oregano and some pepper. Heat a non-stick frying pan and cook the chicken for a few mins each side. Meanwhile, mix the yogurt, cucumber and mint to make tzatziki. 2 Cut the tops from the pittas along their longest side and stuff with the chicken, tomato, pepper and tzatziki. Poke in a few mint leaves to serve. If taking to the office for lunch, pack the tzatziki in a separate pot and add just before eating to prevent the pitta going soggy before lunchtime. GOOD TO KNOW low fat • low cal • ibre • 3 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 352 kcals • fat 9g • saturates 4g • carbs 34g • sugars 6g • ibre 6g • protein 31g • salt 1.4g

Switch it up A small bit of lean steak is a healthy alternative to the chicken and is rich in iron, B vitamins and zinc.

108 bbcgoodfood.com MAY 2017

1 First, cook the prosciutto. Heat a non-stick pan, add the slices in a single layer without oil and cook for a few mins each side until they are starting to crisp. 2 Meanwhile, stone the avocado and scoop the flesh into a bowl. Roughly mash, then spread on the bread. Top two slices of the bread with the tomato, some prosciutto, the lettuce, then the rest of the prosciutto. Sandwich with the remaining bread and halve to serve. You can keep the sandwich together with a cocktail stick. GOOD TO KNOW low cal • folate • ibre • 3 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 286 kcals • fat 14g • saturates 3g • carbs 22g • sugars 5g • ibre 8g • protein 14g • salt 1.8g

healthy sandwiches

If you like the combo of lettuce, avocado and tomato, lots of other ingredients go well with these lavours. Try skinless chicken, lean roast beef or Atlantic prawns. For a veggie version of this sandwich, spread the bread with houmous, then thinly slice the avocado and use it instead of the prosciutto.

Lemony salmon & lettuce wraps Most of us reach for canned tuna rather than salmon. But salmon provides omega-3, which we should be eating at least once a week. This recipe uses crisp lettuce rather than tortilla wraps. SERVES 2 PREP 10 mins NO COOK

400g can cannellini beans, rinsed and drained 213g can wild red salmon, drained, skin and bones removed if you like 1 /2 lemon, zested and juiced 1 spring onion, inely chopped 1 tbsp Greek yogurt 1 tbsp dill, chopped 8 large romaine lettuce leaves

1 Mix together all the ingredients except the lettuce in a bowl. 2 Trim the chunky part of the stalk at the base of each lettuce leaf so they are easier to roll up, then place the leaves in pairs on top of each other, head to toe. Spoon on the salmon mixture, then roll up and keep in place with strips of baking parchment, which make the wraps easier to hold and eat. Pack into a container to keep the wraps from getting crushed and, if possible, chill to keep the lettuce crisp. GOOD TO KNOW healthy • low fat • low cal • calcium • folate • ibre • omega-3 • 2 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING 334 kcals • fat 11g • saturates 3g • carbs 17g • sugars 3g • ibre 10g • protein 36g • salt 1.3g

Switch it up For an alternative illing, try a homemade tomato salsa of red beans, coriander, chilli and lime with lean chicken or turkey.

Feta toast with minty beans This open sandwich provides 2 of your 5-a-day. Toasting the bread adds texture and stops it going soggy if you’re taking it to work for lunch. SERVES 1 PREP 5 mins COOK 3 mins EASY V

3 heaped tbsp frozen soybeans or baby broad beans 1 tsp extra virgin rapeseed oil 1 tsp cider vinegar garlic clove, inely grated 1 mint sprig, leaves chopped 1 slice rye and wheat dark sourdough bread 1 heaped tbsp Greek yogurt 15g feta 1 ready-cooked beetroot, sliced

1 Boil the beans following the pack instructions, about 3 mins, then drain and mix with the oil, vinegar, garlic and mint. Meanwhile, toast the bread. 2 Mix the yogurt with the feta to make a rough paste, then spread half onto the toast. Top with the beetroot slices, then spread on the rest of the feta mix and pile the beans on top. Eat with your fingers or a knife and fork. Take all the different bits for the sandwich to work in small tubs and build it at your desk GOOD TO KNOW calcium • folate • ibre • 2 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 377 kcals • fat 13g • saturates 6g • carbs 42g • sugars 9g • ibre 10g • protein 17g • salt 1.6g

Switch it up For an alternative topping, try mashed avocado with poached salmon instead of the feta mix (smoked salmon or other cured ish isn’t a healthy choice because of its salt content). You could also swap the feta for a blue cheese, and top with pear instead of beetroot, and a few walnuts and dried dates or raisins instead of the beans.

MAY 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 109

Food styling ELLIE JARVIS Styling FAYE WEARS

Switch it up

Join the culture club Fermenting is a simple way to preserve food, plus it has tremendous health bene its because of the bacteria it produces. Here are three easy recipes to help you achieve good gut health recipes ROSIE BIRKETT photographs DAVID MUNNS

Funky fermented ginger lemonade, p114 110 bbcgoodfood.com MAY 2017

healthy easy fermentation

Fermented wild garlic or spring onions, p114 MAY 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 111

Good Food contributing editor Rosie Birkett is a food writer and stylist. Her cookbook, A Lot on Her Plate, is out now (£25, Hardie Grant). @rosiefoodie

Chances are you’ve been eating fermented foods your whole life, maybe without even realising it. So many of the everyday staples we take for granted – like wine, tea, cheese, bread and chocolate – are made using different fermentation processes. And while products like kimchi and kombucha have only become trendy in the UK in more recent years, people have been harnessing the natural process of fermentation all over the world for thousands of years. Personally, I’m nuts about fermentation. I love the funky, interesting flavour profiles that fermented foods bring to my cooking, as well as the probiotic and digestive benefits from the good bacteria that make the process possible.

Radish kraut This is great in salads and, with a similar flavour to sauerkraut, it’s also delicious with hot dogs and burgers. MAKES about 400g PREP 20 mins plus 1 hr curing and 4 7 days fermenting NO COOK V

300g radishes, washed and inely sliced (preferably using a mandolin) 1 /2 red pepper, inely chopped 2 tsp sea salt 1 /2 tsp demerara sugar 2 garlic cloves, crushed 1 red chilli, deseeded and inely chopped still mineral water, to top up

1 You must sterilise your jars before you start (see box, above) and you will need to check your ferment every day for four to five days. 112 bbcgoodfood.com MAY 2017

As many people are cottoning on to the appeal of naturally fermented food, it’s becoming less scary, and something we increasingly want to do for ourselves at home, rather than relying on industrially produced versions. Many of these have been pasteurised and therefore are no longer ‘alive’, or as health-giving or flavourful. Beginning with fruit and vegetables is a good introduction. The brilliant thing is that it’s very simple to do at home – all you need are some sterilised jars, vegetables, muslin, baking parchment and a bit of patience.

What is fermentation? Fermentation promotes the growth and life cycle of good bacteria to transform the flavour and shelf life of ingredients. But how does this magic happen? All vegetables are covered in the good bacteria lactobacillus, and when you slice up, grate and squeeze them with salt, they release their juice, which mingles with the salt to create a brine. Once contained within this briny environment, lactobacillus multiplies and begins to break down the ingredient, digesting the

2 Combine the radishes and red pepper in a bowl with the salt and sugar, and really scrunch up with your hands, squeezing to start releasing their juices. Leave to cure for 1 hr, then squeeze again for about 10 mins. Add the garlic and chilli, and squeeze some more. 3 Pack the radish kraut into a sterilised jar, pressing down hard to make sure there are no air bubbles (I use the end of a clean rolling pin for this). As you push down, the brine from the vegetables should cover them (they won’t come all the way up the jar; you should be left with 2-3cm of space at the top). You really need to push down hard. If the brine doesn’t fully immerse the vegetables, add a bit of mineral water to ensure the veg is fully covered with liquid – this is crucial. 4 Scrunch up some baking parchment and stuff it firmly down into the jar – this will weigh down

natural sugars and transforming them into lactic acid, which creates the tangy flavour and a sour environment that keeps the growth of nasty bacteria at bay.

Essential know-how – sterilise your jars You can buy special preserving jars, but I always have so many glass jars knocking around, and reusing them is a great way of cutting down on waste. You’ll need wide-mouth jars (I reuse old pickle jars) to pack in all the ingredients, and it’s really important to sterilise your jars to avoid the growth of the wrong sort of bacteria, which could make you ill. I use 500ml jars for these ferments. To sterilise them, heat oven to 180C/160C fan/ gas 4. Wash the jars and lids thoroughly in warm soapy water, then leave to dry on the draining rack, drying the lids with a clean tea towel. Put your jars on a shelf in the oven for 15 mins, then remove with oven gloves. Once cool, they are ready to use. See our rules for fermenting on page 114 before you start.

the veg and keep it immersed. Top with clean muslin and fasten with a rubber band. Leave on a cool, dark shelf for four to seven days, depending on how funky you like it to taste – this really is more of a guideline, as it does come down to personal taste. The speed at which it ferments will also depend on the season. If it’s warm, the process will be quicker; if it’s cold, slower. I like to check my ferment every day to see how it’s coming on, and also to lift off the muslin and parchment to release those fermentation gases before resealing (known as burping), so that the jar doesn’t explode. When you’re happy with the taste, remove the parchment and muslin, seal with the lid and store in the fridge to stop it fermenting any further. Will keep for months. GOOD TO KNOW vegan • low fat • gluten free PER HEAPED TBSP 8 kcals • fat none • saturates none • carbs 1g • sugars 1g • ibre 1g • protein none • salt 0.1g

healthy easy fermentation

MAY 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 113

healthy easy fermentation

Fermented wild garlic or spring onions

This is great with gin or vodka for a funky cocktail!

Add to toasties, cold meats or fried egg on toast for a full-flavour brunch.

MAKES 2.5 litres PREP 15 mins plus 4 5 days fermenting NO COOK

MAKES about 500g PREP 20 mins plus resting and 4 7 days fermenting NO COOK V

500g organic lemons 1 tbsp grated ginger 125ml whey (see tip, below) 75g organic cane sugar, plus 1/2 tbsp still mineral water, to top up

1 You must sterilise your jars before you start (see box, p112) and you will need to check your ferment every day for four to five days. 2 Juice the lemons and pour the juice through a sieve. Combine the lemon juice, ginger, whey and sugar in a 3-litre sterilised jar and top up with mineral water, leaving 2.5cm at the top of the jar. Give it a good shake and leave it at room temperature for two days, releasing gas as you need to by releasing then refastening the lid. 3 After this time, decant it into glass bottles, adding a little of the 1/2 tbsp sugar to each. Seal and ferment for a further two to three days (burping every day) until you see bubbles. Put in the fridge to stop any further fermentation. Will keep in the fridge for a week. GOOD TO KNOW gluten free PER 125ML SERVING 23 kcals • fat none • saturates none • carbs 6g • sugars 6g • ibre none • protein none • salt none

tip To make the whey, heat 1 litre of milk to 82C, then add 20ml white wine vinegar, take it off the heat and stir a little. Leave to rest until the curds and whey separate, then strain through a muslin-lined sieve into a bowl. The whey is the liquid that collects in the bowl. You can use the curds as curd cheese in recipes.

600g fresh wild garlic or spring onions pinch of demerara sugar 1 tsp sea salt still mineral water, to top up

1 You must sterilise your jars before you start (see box, p112) and you will need to check your ferment every day for four to seven days. 2 Thoroughly wash your wild garlic or spring onions, then dry them with a clean tea towel or in a salad spinner. Shred them finely using a knife, then put a layer in a bowl. Scatter on some of the sugar and salt, and repeat with the next layer, adding sugar and salt until you’ve used up all the veg. Leave to stand for about 30 mins to start the moisture extraction. 3 Give them a good massage with the salt/juice. They will turn a darker green and start to lose their shape. Leave for another 30 mins. 4 Pack the veg into your sterilised jar, pushing down (I use the end of a clean rolling pin) to get out any air bubbles. Keep packing and pushing until all the veg is in the jar. Push down to check there is enough liquid to cover it (adding a little mineral water to top up if needed) and, once covered in the brine, scrunch up some baking parchment and stuff it firmly down into the jar – this will weigh it down and keep it all immersed. 5 Top with clean muslin and fasten with a rubber band. Leave on a cool, dark shelf for four to seven days, depending on how funky you like it to taste. Check and ‘burp’ every day by removing the covering and then replacing it to let out the gases. When you’re happy with the taste, remove the parchment and muslin, and seal with the lid. Put in the fridge to stop the fermentation. Will keep in the fridge for months. GOOD TO KNOW vegan • low fat • gluten free PER HEAPED TBSP 11 kcals • fat none • saturates none • carbs 1g • sugars 1g • ibre 1g • protein 1g • salt 0.5g

114 bbcgoodfood.com MAY 2017

Essential know-how - 5 rules of fermenting • Sterilise your jars and bottles thoroughly before you start any fermentation. • Store in a cool, dark place such as a pantry, utility room or on a shelf out of direct sunlight. • Keep an eye (and nose) on your ferments, and also watch out for any mould. If you see or smell a ferment starting to go bad, don’t take any risks – just discard it. • Because of the gas produced by the good bacteria, it’s a good idea to burp them (lift the lid/muslin) every few days so that they don’t explode. • Trust your gut – taste as you go and you’ll soon igure out how far you want to take a ferment. It should be pleasantly sour and not smell bad. If you’ve decided that it’s tasting funky enough for you after a few days, just put it in the fridge – this will halt the fermentation. If it smells or tastes unpleasant or unpalatable, do not eat it, simply throw it away.

& If you’re interested in learning more, I heartily recommend reading the books of Sandor Katz – a fermentation evangelist who has spearheaded the modern popularity of this preservation technique.

Portrait JASON BAILEY Food styling ROSIE BIRKETT Styling VICTORIA ALLEN

Funky fermented ginger lemonade

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et set for summer with our stellar line-up of the UK’s top chefs and experts cooking LIVE in our Good Food Show Supertheatre. Michelin masters Tom Kerridge and Michel Roux Jr are back,

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Hussain shares dishes for all the family. Plus, don’t miss the queen of baking Mary Berry, joined by gardening expert Alan Titchmarsh, for a unique mix of plot to plate inspiration.

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Joe Wicks Photography: CONOR McDONNELL

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my life on a plate

Kirstie Allsopp We all have a recipe that brings back childhood memories and one we’d like to pass on to the next generation. The television presenter and homemade craft fan shares hers

interview ROSANNA GREENSTREET portrait CLARA MOLDEN CAMERAPRESS

The recipe I grew up with I was brought up by a metrosexual father and a mother who worked. My dad can cook, hang pictures and arrange flowers. He loved Anglo-Indian curries and would curry anything. My dad taught me to cook eggs when I was quite young, long before my mum got cancer when I was 17. He took scrambled eggs incredibly seriously – there was none of this milk malarkey, just a little melted butter in the pan. I like to put a garlic clove on the fork that you use to muddle the eggs before you put them in the pan. You could never say, oh these eggs have garlic in them, but it gives a tiny hint.

I like scrambled eggs with roasted tomatoes and spinach but no toast. When I started Amelia Freer’s metabolic balance diet last July, I stopped eating bread and potatoes, and drinking wine. I never really liked wine anyway. I’ve shed more than two stone, which is all very well, but now nothing fits! I recently discovered that cooking is in my DNA. My great-great- grandmother wrote Minnie, Lady Hindlip’s Cookery Book. It’s hysterical, full of recipes that you give your cook to cook for you. As I’m writing a cookbook, due out later this year, I bought a copy on Amazon, which turned out to have belonged to my father’s grandmother – extraordinary.

Scrambled eggs & slowroast tomatoes on toast

1 Heat oven to 180C/160C fan/ gas 4. Drizzle the oil in a roasting tin and add the sliced garlic, the thyme and some seasoning. Arrange the tomatoes, cut-side down, on top and roast in the oven for 45 mins or until soft. Keep warm until serving. 2 Boil the kettle. Put the spinach in a metal colander over the sink and 118 bbcgoodfood.com MAY 2017

pour boiling water over it, just until the leaves have wilted. Leave to drain. 3 Peel the remaining garlic clove, wedge it onto a fork and use it to beat the eggs. Put half the butter in a non-stick frying pan over a low heat. Once melted, add the eggs. Stir until they start to thicken, then stir in the spinach. When the eggs are almost cooked, take off the heat and stir in the remaining butter. Keep stirring until the eggs are cooked but still soft. Pile onto toast, if you like, and serve with the tomatoes. GOOD TO KNOW folate • ibre • iron • 1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 496 kcals • fat 30g • saturates 11g • carbs 29g • sugars 5g • ibre 6g • protein 25g • salt 1.4g

Food styling ELLIE JARVIS Styling FAYE WEARS

1 tbsp olive oil 2 garlic cloves, 1 sliced, 1 left whole 2 thyme or rosemary sprigs 200g ripe vine tomatoes, halved 50g baby spinach 25g butter 4 large eggs 4 small slices of granary bread, toasted, to serve (optional)

Recipe photograph SAM FOLAN

SERVES 2 PREP 5 mins COOK 55 mins EASY V

food stories my life on a plate

The recipe I’d like to pass on I’m the mother of Bay, 10, and Oscar, eight, and the stepmother of Orion, 17, and Hal, 14 – and I want all four boys to cook. Nowadays, men seem to be cooking more, and a lot of my female friends seem to view not being able to cook as a badge of honour – which I find weird, as if you can’t be a serious, professional woman and cook. When you become a parent, it’s incredibly important. Your children have to see you cooking, know what goes into food, and what it’s supposed to taste like. Hal, who does food tech at school, has a pasta machine and is making his own. Bay hangs around the kitchen but it’s more to check I don’t put fruit in anything – he’s pathological in his loathing for fruit. His 5-a-day are all vegetables, but I don’t think that really matters. My dish of the moment is my coriander chicken, inspired by Meera Sodha’s Made in India book. You make the coriander chutney first, then add the chicken, but you could add anything. I reckon you could travel the world with a jar of coriander chutney in your backpack and be okay, and I want to ensure all the children can do that. @kirstiemallsop

& Kirstie is appearing at The Handmade Fair in Ragley, Warwickshire (12 14 May), and The Handmade Fair at The Green at Hampton Court (15 17 September). thehandmadefair.com

Next month: Sophie Ellis-Bextor

Coriander chicken with rice & spiced vegetables SERVES 4 PREP 25 mins COOK 35 mins EASY

For the coriander chutney 50g coriander (about 2 small packs) 50g unsalted peanuts 1 /2 lemon, juiced 1 green chill, deseeded and inely chopped 2 tsp garam masala 1 /2 tsp soft brown sugar For the chicken 2 tbsp vegetable oil 2 onions, sliced thumb-sized piece ginger, inely grated 4 garlic cloves, crushed 1 green chilli, inely chopped 6 skinless and boneless chicken thigh illets, cut into 3cm chunks For the rice 350g basmati rice 1 tbsp coconut oil 1 /2 tsp chilli lakes 2cm piece ginger, inely grated For the spiced vegetables 125g pack purple sprouting broccoli or long-stemmed broccoli 200g ine green beans 1 tsp oil 2cm piece ginger, sliced 1 /4 tsp chilli lakes

1 Use a stick blender or mini food processor to whizz up all the chutney ingredients, then chill. 2 Heat the oil in a large, lidded frying pan over a medium-high heat. Add the onions and fry for 9-10 mins, then add the ginger, garlic and chilli. Cook for a few mins more, then add the chicken. Brown well, then add half the coriander chutney and reduce the heat. Cover and cook for 15-20 mins or until the chicken is cooked through. 3 Rinse the rice in a sieve, then tip into a large, lidded saucepan. Stir in all the ingredients for the rice. Pour over enough boiling water to cover the rice by 1cm, cover, bring to the boil and cook for 5 mins. Turn off the heat and leave to steam-cook with the lid on for 20 mins. Fluff up with a fork, then season. 4 Put the broccoli and green beans in a pan and add 100ml boiling water. Cover and cook over a medium-high heat for 4-5 mins. Drain and return to the pan with the oil, ginger, chilli flakes and some seasoning. Cook for another 2 mins, then serve with the chicken, remaining chutney and the rice. GOOD TO KNOW folate • ibre • iron • 2 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING 657 kcals • fat 22g • saturates 6g • carbs 80g • sugars 7g • ibre 6g • protein 32g • salt 0.1g

MAY 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 119

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Entertain outdoors Make the most of summer in your garden with this pizza oven and wine cooler

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Outdoor pizza oven, smoker and BBQ Impress your guests with this multi-function pizza oven, smoker and BBQ – a modern take on the traditional brick pizza oven. You can use either wood or charcoal fuel for barbecuing on the stainlesssteel grill, baking pizzas on the pizza stone, or smoking food using the damper and vents. Features include

• Temperature gauge. • Ash tray and upper chimney for oxygen flow. • Storage shelf. • Side handle and wheels allowing for easy movement. • Made from durable steel. Measures L35 x W49 x H160cm. Some self-assembly required.

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Eight-bottle wine cooler Keep your drinks at the optimum temperature with this wine cooler. The chrome-finish shelves store up to eight bottles from 7-18C. You can choose your desired temperature and your wine will be ready to serve with your next meal or dinner party. Measures W25.5 x D51.4 x H46.5cm and weighs 9kg. Order code D9163

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To order, call 0844 493 5654† quoting 70805 or visit clifford-james.co.uk/70805 120 bbcgoodfood.com MAY 2017

food stories your recipes

your recipes

Bake a poke cake

Our website is a great place to get your recipes noticed. This American-style cake caught our eye – you poke holes in the sponge, then add a sauce or syrup to make it extra gooey

Food styling ROSIE BIRKETT Styling VICTORIA ALLEN

recipe BELINDA SCOTT MABERLEY photograph DAVID MUNNS

‘Every year I bake a birthday cake for my daughter, Faye, and I love getting creative,’ says Belinda from Reigate in Surrey. ‘Over the years, they have ranged from princess fairy castles to a Mexican skull cake. This year, for her 24th, Faye asked for a salted caramel cake, so I thought, how can I make it different? I took inspiration from an American cupcake book and came up with this recipe – you poke holes in the sponge and pour in a caramel sauce to get extra flavour into every bite. She loved it and Instagrammed it straight away!’

Got a recipe you’d like to share? Visit bbcgoodfood. com and create an account in My Good Food – your recipe could be featured in a future issue.

Salted caramel poke cake SERVES 12 PREP 40mins COOK 30 mins MORE EFFORT

110g unsalted butter, softened at room temperature 225g golden caster sugar 150g dark brown soft sugar 3 eggs 1 tsp vanilla extract 240g plain lour 1 tsp baking powder 240ml milk For the salted caramel sauce 200g granulated sugar 90g butter, cubed, softened at room temperature 120g double cream, at room temperature 1 tbsp sea salt lakes, crushed

For the cream cheese caramel icing 75g butter 250g icing sugar 225g cream cheese

1 Heat oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4. Line two 20cm cake tins with baking parchment. In a bowl or tabletop mixer, cream the butter and sugars until light and fluffy. Add the eggs, one at a time, beating until the mixture is well aerated (if it starts to split, add a little flour). Add the vanilla, then the flour and baking powder, alternating with the milk. Divide the mixture between the tins and cook for 25-30 mins or until the tops are golden brown and a skewer inserted into the middle comes out clean. Cool in the tins for 10 mins, then on a wire rack, peeling off the baking parchment. 2 To make the sauce, heat the sugar in a medium saucepan until dissolved. Remove from the heat and add the butter. The mixture will bubble up, but let the butter melt completely before stirring. Slowly pour in the cream and add the salt. Pour into a jug and leave to cool to room temperature. 3 To make the icing, cream the butter in a tabletop mixer or a bowl until light and creamy, slowly adding in half the sugar until fully incorporated and fluffy. Add the cream cheese and 100g of the salted caramel sauce, and whisk until pale and smooth. Keep in the fridge until needed. 4 Once the cakes are cooled, use a large skewer to poke holes across the tops of the cakes, being careful not to poke all the way through. Drizzle the caramel sauce into the holes, topping up as they sink in, then spread any overspill across the top. Leave to cool completely. 5 To assemble, carefully put one layer on a plate and cover with half the icing. Repeat with the next layer, then use the remaining caramel to drizzle over the top – use a skewer to create a marble pattern, if you like. PER SERVING 642 kcals • fat 30g • saturates 19g • carbs 86g • sugars 70g • ibre 1g • protein 6g • salt 1.8g

MAY 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 121

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That extra something A little finishing touch can really take a meal up a notch – let the new Heinz [Seriously] Good Sauces work their magic on your dishes re you struggling to make an old favourite feel exciting again? Or maybe you want to tweak a recipe to make it yours? Whatever you feel a dish is lacking, the new Heinz [Seriously] Good Sauces can help. Versatile and ready to use, there are four deliciously smooth sauces to try. Want to upgrade potato and chicken dishes? Then the zingy and creamy Chive Sauce, made with crème fraîche, is the one for you. The Pepper, meanwhile, is perfect with steak and beef – as is the Béarnaise. Made with shallots and tarragon, it’s also great with fish. And the rich and lively Tomato & Garlic will take chicken and grilled meat recipes to the next level. Available in Sainsbury’s and Morrisons. Why pick just one? Try all of them.

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Clas ic steak sandwich SERVES 4 PREP 5 mins COOK 15 mins, plus resting

EASY

2 tbsp olive oil 50g butter 2 large onions, finely sliced 2 garlic cloves, finely sliced 500g sirloin steak (about 2 large or 4 small) 100g rocket 1 baguette or 2 batons, halved 100g Heinz [Seriously] Good Creamy Pepper Sauce 1 Heat 1 tbsp of the oil and the butter in a large frying pan over a medium heat. Add the onions and garlic and cook, stirring, for about 10 mins, until golden and beginning

to caramelise. Remove from the pan with a slotted spoon and set aside. 2 Add the rest of the oil to the pan, and turn up the heat. Season the steaks and cook for 2-3 mins per side, or until done to your liking. Remove from the pan and leave to rest for 4-5 minutes before slicing. 3 Arrange the rocket over the halved baguette, then top with the onions followed by the steak. Spoon on the Heinz [Seriously] Good Creamy Pepper Sauce and sandwich together. Serve immediately.

For more recipe inspiration, visit heinz.co.uk

food stories BBC awards

Food and Farming Awards

Local hero An innovative online farmers’ market is providing shoppers in the Forest of Dean with affordable, fresh produce to order, with no food wasted interview CLARE HARGREAVES portrait DAVID COTSWORTH

I

Photograph STUART OVENDEN | Food styling JENNIFER JOYCE Styling SARAH BIRKS

Next month: A Cheshire cheesemaker

magine a farmers’ market that sells quality local food but where no one has to stand in the rain, no produce is wasted, and consumers pay affordable prices that are fair for producers too. Well, such a market exists – Dean Forest Food Hub, which was a finalist in last year’s BBC Food and Farming Awards. The not-for-profit Food Hub, covering the Forest of Dean between the Severn and Wye rivers, is essentially an online farmers’ market. At the start of each week, producers upload their produce for sale, and consumers can pick from the list at any time until midnight on Tuesday. On Fridays, they collect their orders from designated pick-up points.

Producers bake or harvest to order, so no food is wasted. ‘This helps producers and also means consumers can afford to buy good-quality local food,’ says Hub volunteer Jacky Smith. ‘Some are finding they no longer need to go to the supermarket.’ Volunteers pack and distribute the boxes, which helps to keep costs low. ‘By assisting with the packing, people get involved in their own food supply rather than just being passive recipients,’ says Jacky. ‘We pack up to 50 boxes a week, but demand is so strong that we’re now planning a second hub.’ Vegetable expert Charlie Hicks, who judged the Best Food Market

category, said: ‘This is a new way of making local produce available to local people that really works. I visited a few of the distribution points and spoke to customers – they all felt a strong sense of connection to the growers and producers, and there was a real sense of trading within their community, something I really didn’t expect from an online operation.’ deanforestfoodhub.org.uk

Pasta primavera

1 Bring a pan of salted water to the boil and put a steamer (or colander) over the water. Steam the beans, asparagus and peas until just tender, then set aside. Boil the pasta following pack instructions. 2 Meanwhile, fry the leeks gently in the oil and butter for 5 mins or until soft. Add the fromage frais to the leeks and very gently warm through, stirring constantly to ensure it doesn’t split. Add the herbs and steamed vegetables with a splash of pasta water to loosen. 3 Drain the pasta and stir into the sauce. Adjust the seasoning, then serve scattered with the cheese and drizzled with a little extra olive oil.

‘If we’re lucky and our growers’ broad beans have survived the winter, they’ll be available in May, to join early peas and asparagus – all of which appear in our boxes,’ says Jacky. ‘This recipe was provided by one of our growers.’ SERVES 4 PREP 10 mins COOK 20 mins EASY V

75g young broad beans (use frozen if you can’t get fresh) 2 x 100g pack asparagus tips 170g peas (use frozen if you can’t get fresh) 350g spaghetti or tagliatelle 175g pack baby leeks, trimmed and sliced 1 tbsp olive oil, plus extra to serve 1 tbsp butter 200ml tub fromage frais or crème fraîche handful fresh chopped herbs (we used mint, parsley and chives) parmesan (or vegetarian alternative), shaved, to serve

Dean Forest Food Hub was a inalist in the Best Food Market category of the 2016 BBC Food and Farming Awards. Discover more about the winners and inalists via BBC Radio 4 iPlayer and at bbc.co.uk.

GOOD TO KNOW healthy • low fat • low cal • folate • ibre • 2 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 476 kcals • fat 9g • saturates 3g • carbs 74g • sugars 6g • ibre 9g • protein 20g • salt 0.1g

tip If you’re cooking this later in the season and your broad beans have white ‘overcoats’, then pop the beans out of these shells, as they can be a bit tough.

MAY 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 123

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Explore Brighton’s buzzing food scene, plus eco breaks for the whole family

Green travel

Amsterdam Thanks to car-free neighbourhoods and transport led by bikes, trams and electric taxis, the Dutch capital is one of Europe’s greenest cities. With a new direct train service from the UK, it’s a sustainable short break feature JOEL PORTER

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xhxhxyxhxyxhxy xhxhxyxhxyxhxy Eco patisserie Sticky Fingers at Conscious Hotels’ The Tire Station

Where to eat and drink Head to the industrial west for daily-changing set menus featuring great local produce at BAK restaurant 126 bbcgoodfood.com MAY 2017

(bakrestaurant.nl), which started as a roving pop-up before becoming permanent in 2013. The more centrally-located Breda (breda-amsterdam.com), which offers a taste of the eponymous Dutch city, was one of the best openings of 2016, while at Guts & Glory (gutsglory.nl), the menus change to focus on a different main ingredient every few months. The new restaurant at the Rijksmuseum, RIJKS, deservedly won a Michelin star last year, but it’s still both affordable and relaxed, set in a beautiful light-filled room adjacent to the main museum building. From the £32 lunch menu, you can try stunning dishes such as puffed beetroot with dashi butter and tempura langoustine tail with curry cream (rijksrestaurant.nl). Ron Blaauw operates many restaurants across Amsterdam but Ron Gastrobar is his flagship, which offers a menu of modern small plates (£6-13) in a bistrostyle setting. Kick off with local Dutch oysters before tucking into smoked salmon with soy tapioca, wasabi & radish and the signature BBQ spare ribs. Take guidance from the expert sommelier who has some truly unusual wines on the list (rongastrobar.nl). Long before the current wave of openings, Gert Jan Hageman set up Restaurant De Kas in an old

greenhouse building in the east of Amsterdam in 2001. It’s a beautiful setting surrounded by gardens where he and his team grow up to 90% of the ingredients that make up the dailychanging menu – which, unsurprisingly, is vegetable focused. Don’t forget to ask for a tour of the gardens before or after eating; it’s a truly special spot. Three courses from £15 (restaurantdekas.nl).

Local knowledge The Citymapper smartphone app (citymapper.com) comes in handy for navigating the efficient tram system. Buy a 24-hour pass (£6; gvb.nl/ontdekamsterdam) so you can hop on and off at your leisure. For up-to-date news on restaurants and the rest of the city, Your Little Black Book is a great resource (yourlittleblackbook.me).

Where to stay Made up of five canal houses, The Hoxton was originally home to a 17th-century city mayor. It has plenty of character, including monumental woodbeamed ceilings and canal views on both sides of the building. Their restaurant and cocktail bar, Lotti’s, offers seasonal Italian flavours with Dutch influences. Look out for regular foodie pop-ups in

IAN TROWER AWL IMAGES, NEIL FARRIN AWL IMAGES, ISTOCK GETTY, HOTZE EISMA

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msterdam is famous for many things, but a thriving restaurant scene has never been one of them. That’s all beginning to change, however, as the city looks to move beyond its hippy image and, led by a new wave of creative young Dutch chefs, establish itself among the great foodie capitals of Europe. The past few years have seen a boom in new openings, with everything from fine dining and pop-ups to vegetarian cafés and street-food markets. While the variety of food on offer is truly global, a common factor to this foodie revolution has been a strong focus on local and seasonal produce. Many restaurants champion Dutch spirits and wines, and a number of chefs even grow their own vegetables. This approach is perhaps not surprising, as Amsterdam often tops Europe’s greenest cities polls, led by the fact that the main methods of transport are bicycle and tram: you’ll need to master at least one of these to get around as the restaurant scene has spread far and wide.

xxxxxxxxxxxxxx xhxy Canal-side dining hxyxhxyxhxyxhxyxhxy

Photographs FRANCESCO LACOBELLI AWL IMAGES, PAMKATPHOTOGRAPHY,

RIJKS

eat like a local amsterdam

Conscious Hotels’ organic restaurant, Moer

RIJKS Restaurant De Kas

Foodhallen

the adjacent events space. Double rooms from £76 (thehoxton.com). With three locations in Amsterdam, Conscious Hotels has impeccable green credentials – think tabletops made of recycled yogurt pots, beehives on the roof, free bike rentals and organic breakfast spreads. Double rooms from £99 (conscioushotels.com). It may be a little out of town, but the Qbic Hotel in the business district is well connected by public transport, and boasts water-saving showers, eco-friendly toiletries and energy-efficient lighting. Doubles from £53 (qbichotels.com).

Getting there Later this year, Eurostar will launch a direct service from London St Pancras to Amsterdam Centraal station – a journey time of four hours (from £46 one way). In the meantime, you can still travel by eco-friendly train by changing in Brussels (total journey time around four-and-a-half hours, from £99 return); visit eurostar.com. From the north, an overnight ferry from Newcastle or Hull costs from £123 return; book through dfdsseaways.co.uk. • Flights and accommodation for this feature were provided by Netherlands Board of Tourism and Conventions (holland.com), and The Hoxton (thehoxton.com).

foodie things to do Puccini Bomboni (various locations) sells incredible handmade chocolates. They don’t come cheap but are well worth a splurge. Look out for unusual lavours such as rhubarb, tea, and tamarind. They also do a range of sugar-free chocs. puccinibomboni.com De Kasskamer (below) is a cheese-lover’s dream in the heart of a city that loves its

cheese. The shelves are stacked high with the best that the Netherlands has to offer. Try a few samples before making a choice and they will vacuum-pack your chosen cheese for transport home. kaaskamer.nl Foodhallen, an indoor food market in the De Hallen cultural centre, is the place to go for the city’s best street-food vendors, serving everything from dim sum and ish to wood- ired pizzas and tacos. foodhallen.nl De Pijp, one of Amsterdam’s hippest areas, is home to many organic cafés and cute boutiques making it a great place to wander. It’s also where you’ll ind the Albert Cuyp Market, the largest outdoor market in the city, which has many stalls with fresh and cooked food. albertcuyp-markt.amsterdam IJscuypje, serving freshly made, artisanal Dutch ice cream with all natural ingredients, is an Amsterdam institution. During winter they switch to a traditional warming menu of Dutch mashed potato stew with peas & gravy, so check before making a special trip (various locations). ijscuypje.nl

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insider

Brighton This trendy seaside hotspot has no shortage of great places to eat and drink – whether you’re after creative seafood dishes, Naples-style pizza, inventive Indian thalis or arty small plates words ANDY LYNES

Tucked away in a side street just off Hove seafront, former Fat Duck chef Duncan Ray is cooking (single-handedly) some of the best modern seafood dishes in the country. The £50 five-course tasting menu showcases the day’s local catch, transformed into precisely cooked, elegant dishes, such as turbot with chicken wing, morel mushroom & sherry sauce. Desserts such as nougat glacé with mango sorbet & chocolate sauce are every bit as delicious and refined as the savoury courses. thelittlefishmarket.co.uk SO

64 Degrees Book in advance to bag a stool at the counter overlooking the open kitchen of this hugely popular but tiny restaurant, to watch chef Michael Bremner and his team cook modern small plates from a short, daily-changing menu. You’ll recognise Michael from his stint on BBC’s Great British Menu. Don’t overlook veggie dishes such as darkly roasted hispi cabbage with a rich hollandaise & truffle dressing, which are as impressive as the meat or fish selections. Dishes from £6.75. 64degrees.co.uk SO CD

The Chilli Pickle This modern Indian brasserie reinvents subcontinental dining for the 21st century with its bright, contemporary interior, spicy cocktails and authentic regional dishes, such as Keralan red duck curry. The whole crispy pork knuckle vindaloo for two, served at Sunday brunch, is a must-order; the generously proportioned thalis are one of the best lunchtime deals in the city. Mains from £11.50. thechillipickle.com CD KF

The Salt Room The roomy terrace at this glamorous seafront fish and steak restaurant offers views of Brighton’s past and present: the remains of the West Pier and the new i360 observation tower. On a sunny day, it’s the ideal spot to share the signature Surf Board of hot and cold crustacea. Inside, there are fabulous cocktails, 128 bbcgoodfood.com MAY 2017

and chef Dave Mothersill’s imaginative dishes include gurnard and grilled octopus with punchy romesco sauce & green olive tapenade. Mains from £14. saltroom-restaurant.co.uk SO

Bincho Yakitori Chef Dave Miney spent three years working in Tokyo before opening this authentic izakaya (Japanese gastropub). You’ll find him behind the counter of this small, atmospheric and always busy restaurant, tending the charcoal grill. Among the many must-order small plates are sweet and crunchy karaage (fried chicken), teriyaki grilled quail, and grilled aubergine with miso. Dishes from £2.80. binchoyakitori.com CE

Fatto a Mano This smart neighbourhood pizzeria in Hove (there’s another branch on London Road) is the ideal place to bring hungry kids after a day on the beach. They may not notice that the pizzas are Naplesstyle, soft and billowing, or that they’ve been cooked in a wood-fired oven and topped with quality San Marzano tomatoes. But they’ll love how delicious they are, and you’ll appreciate the list of daily specials that might include pizza with Tuscan finocchiona & fried aubergine. Pizzas from £5.50. fattoamanopizza.com CE KF

Cin Cin It started out as a pop-up serving prosecco and nibbles from a vintage Fiat van. Now owner and genial host David Toscano has moved to a bricks-and-mortar site in the North Laine. Eighteen stools surround the open kitchen and bar where chef Jamie Halsall cooks up some of the finest pasta dishes in the city. Do not miss the likes of tagliatelle with a richly flavoured Sussex lamb shoulder ragu & salted ricotta. Small plates from £7. cincin.co.uk CD

zero-waste diner. Chef Douglas McMaster has worked at St John and Noma, and combines the nose-to-tail approach of the former with the local and sustainable ethos of the latter, in dishes such as cured gurnard with oysters & broccoli. Silo is also a great spot for unusual breakfast fare, like coddled egg, blood pudding & kimchi. Three courses from £25. silobrighton.com CD

Dizzy Gull Chefs Semone Bonner and Dan Kenny of modernist restaurant The Set have turned their skills to pub food at this characterful boozer near Brighton’s main shopping street. The public voted this the top Sunday lunch spot in the 2017 Brighton’s Best Restaurants awards, and you won’t be disappointed by the roast Sussex beef rib-eye served with dripping roasties, crisp Yorkshire pudding & veg, including celeriac purée and kale. Sunday lunch £12. dizzygull.co.uk CE

Metro Deco Head to boho Kemptown for a memorable afternoon tea in this camp and quirky 1930s-style converted Art Deco furniture showroom. Relax into an ornate vintage armchair and choose from two dozen tea blends (the delicate Silver Needle white tea is particularly good), served in mismatched bone china to accompany dainty open sandwiches, scones, cakes and pastries. The teainfused cocktails include a Sweet Sunburst made with rum, rhubarb & vanilla-flavoured rooibos. Afternoon tea from £20. metro-deco.com CD Andy Lynes, a Brighton-based food, drink and travel writer, founded the Brighton’s Best Restaurants awards and OctoberBEST restaurant festival. @andylynes

Silo This funky, spartan restaurant, located in a converted Victorian warehouse in North Laine, is billed as the UK’s first

SUITABLE FOR CD casual dining CE cheap eat KF kid friendly SO special occasion

Photographs XAVIER BUENDIA, HEATHER WILKINSON, EMMA GUTTERIDGE, DEREK P. REDFEARN GETTY

The Little Fish Market

eat like a local brighton Silo

Dizzy Gull

The Chilli Pickle Fatto a Mano

The Little Fish Market

foodie places to try Street Diner Sample some of the city’s best street-food vendors, including Dead Good Burrito, at this Friday pop-up al fresco market. streetdiner.co.uk Bluebird Tea Co ‘Tea mixologists’ create unique blends, including maple bacon pancake- lavoured rooibos, at this fun, friendly shop and tea bar. bluebirdteaco.com The Flour Pot Bakery Enjoy the fabulous homemade cakes and Caravan coffee at this stylish North Laine café, then take home a loaf of sourdough. lour-pot.co.uk

The Salt Room

Ten Green Bottles Try a glass before you take a bottle home at this chic wine shop and bar. It offers a constantly changing and exciting selection. tengreenbottles.com Twin Pines Hip retro-style coffee bar, serving its own blend made with an imported, handmade American espresso machine, served in beautiful bespoke pottery cups. twinpinescoffee.com

Bincho Yakitori

For 10 more places to eat in Brighton, visit bbcgoodfood.com. You’ll ind other guides, including Bath, Manchester and Edinburgh, on our website. • Next month: Leeds

MAY 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 129

Best for BLUEBELL WOODS AND FAB PUDS Riverleigh, Devon

six quick trips

Green family getaways Make the school holidays count – take a spring break packed with fun, eco-friendly activities and great local food

Stornoway Harbour

Best for SCOTTISH WILD FOOD TRAILS The Outer Hebrides These western Scottish isles are linked by an outstanding food trail, led by chefs who take their food extremely seriously, and delicious fare served by community volunteers. The supreme cosiness of these eateries is in inverse proportion to the elemental wilds in which they’re set. What to eat The islands place great emphasis on local resources, and families who are camping or self-catering can collect dinner on the lochs around Keose on Lewis with Hebrides Fish ’n’ Trips (hebridesfishntrips.co.uk). Pull up creels of crab and

lobster, catch mackerel and enjoy close-up views of sea eagles and seals. Local seafood and venison are strong points at the Cabarfeidh Hotel’s Solas restaurant in nearby Stornoway. A nice touch is that the dish of the day, and the chef’s notes, are printed out and waiting at reception every day (mains £14-£23; children’s menus available). Forty minutes west of Stornoway are the vast sands of Uig, where children can roam for miles at low tide; in summer the adjacent machair – or sea meadows – are cloaked in wild flowers. High above the beach is the superb Uig Community Centre tearoom, serving top-notch soup, oatcakes with salmon,

130 bbcgoodfood.com MAY 2017

and homemade ice cream at roadside café prices. How to do it Cabarfeidh Hotel has family rooms from £125 per night (cabarfeidhhotel.co.uk). Camp at Cnip Grazing campsite, Reef Beach, Uig (01851 672332). For more on the Eat Drink Hebrides Trail, visit visitouterhebrides.co.uk/ food-and-drink. Mark Rowe

Barely a stone’s throw from the River Avon, you’ll discover The Batman’s Summerhouse: a Scandi-chic cabin on the edge of a bluebell wood, which looks directly onto the water. With its own sunny, private garden, children will be happy to find a trampoline, rope swing and giant hammock at their disposal. Further afield, you’re just a 20-minute drive from beautiful, sandy beaches, including the atmospheric Burgh Island, with access by boat or brilliantly fun sea tractor, depending on tides. What to eat Miranda Gardiner, owner of the summerhouse, is a food writer and author, and guests can order seasonal sharing meals to eat in the cabin for £20 per adult and £10 per child. The menu includes local meats as well as fruit and vegetables from Miranda’s own harvest garden. If you’d rather forage your own produce, head to the river to fish for wild trout and salmon, or explore the eight acres of woodland for elderflower, wild garlic and pignuts (a wild vegetable that tastes a bit like hazelnuts). It wouldn’t be a trip to Devon without a traditional afternoon tea. Wander along the river to the garden centre Avon Mill (avonmill.com) for homemade cakes, wild flowers and local honey. Or drop by the Valley View Café on the way home from the beach and relax on the sun-soaked terrace; £5.20 will buy you two plump, homemade scones with generous pots of strawberry jam, clotted cream and tea. At the adjoining Aune Valley farm shop (aunevalleyfarm.co.uk), you’ll find a good selection of local and organic meats, cheeses and vegetables to cook at the cabin or take home. How do to it Rooms from £120 per night. Accommodation sleeps up to five people, visit canopyandstars.co.uk to book. Lily Barclay

eat like a local six quick trips

Frittata at Avon Mill

Homemade treats at The Batman’s Summerhouse

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Best for HIKES AND HEARTY MEALS The Lake District Lake Windermere offers families the chance to play Swallows and Amazons, but also to discover its western shores on foot or by bicycle, and enjoy fine food drawn from the very woods and glades you are exploring. What to eat The Lakeside Hotel & Spa has a strong foodie reputation (standouts at John Ruskin’s Brasserie include Herdwick lamb, celeriac risotto and sticky toffee pudding for kids; two courses £29 (MondayThursday), kids’ portions available. Head chef Richard Booth often forages for wild garlic and damsons to supplement the kitchen garden and the hotel’s herds of sheep and rare-breed cattle. Base a day’s excursion further north up the lake by The Lakeside Hotel & Spa

Wray Castle

the Claife jetty: start with a cycle ride along off-road shoreline tracks to Wray Castle, where superb National Trust cakes await (bring your own bikes or hire from Grizedale Mountain Bikes, halfway between the hotel and Claife: velobikes.co.uk). Return to Claife and hike uphill through beech woodlands for 1.5 miles to Beatrix Potter’s home, Hill Top at Near Sawrey. Back by the water, try the ferryman’s lunch (similar to a ploughman’s) at The Café in the Courtyard and, if you’ve got room, a scone smothered in clotted cream. Then take a fun, there-and-back ferry crossing from the jetty to Bowness as a foot passenger (a snip at 50p one way). How to do it Lakeside Hotel & Spa (lakesidehotel.co.uk), on the south-west shore of Windermere, has family rooms from £155 per night for a family of four. Mark Rowe

132 bbcgoodfood.com MAY 2017

Blacksmiths Country Inn

Maria Pieri

A Forest Holidays cabin in Keldy

JO PITSON, SARAH KAY, MARTIN GRACE, FOREST HOLIDAYS, BARNEY DESMAZERY, SARAH BARRELL

Lake Windermere

Stay on the edge of the North York Moors National Park with a wealth of outdoor activities to hand. Explore the woodland at Cropton and nearby Dalby Forest, and ride the North Yorkshire Moors Steam Railway for spectacular views of the national park. The beaches of Scarborough or Whitby are ideal for day trips. Base yourself in one of Forest Holidays’ cabins in Keldy, surrounded by signposted woodland walks and cycle trails, plus on-site archery, forest ranger adventures, and mini night vision safaris (our kids’ favourite). What to eat The awardwinning Blacksmiths Country Inn (blacksmiths countryinn.co.uk), a 10-minute drive away on the edge of Cropton Forest,

has a seasonal menu with local produce, including fresh meat and game reared within a few miles of the kitchens: Ryedale steak & Guinness pie (£11.95), and oven-roasted salmon with creamy lobster, prawn & chive sauce (£14.95). In nearby Pickering, husband-and-wife team Matthew and Gemma offer a seasonal menu using locally sourced ingredients at Willowgate Bistro (willowgatebistro.co.uk). A standout starter: panseared scallops with black pudding, parsnip crisps & beetroot purée; the duck breast main is served pink with roasted garlic & thyme mashed potato, shallots, figs and redcurrants. Two-course evening menus, from £24.95. Foodie landmark Trenchers (trenchersrestaurant.co.uk) is well-known for its fish & chips battered with traditional Yorkshire beef dripping, along with salmon, crab and Whitby scampi. Takeaway cod & chips, £6.40. How to do it A silver birch cabin (sleeping four to six) comes with an open kitchen, living room and shower, and a hot tub on the outdoor deck, from £895 per week. Visit forestholidays.co.uk to book.

Photographs GETTY, MARK ROWE, CANOPY AND STARS, JAMES BOWDEN, LILY BARCLAY,

Best for WOODLAND RETREATS AND EATS Keldy, Yorkshire

Best for FRENCH FARMLAND FOOD The Tarn Valley, France

Ceredigion coastal path

Best for FOREST, COAST AND FARM STAYS West Wales Surrounded by coastal beauty and bordering a nature reserve, Fforest Farm is all about rediscovering the outdoors. Hygge your heart out in one of its cosy domes, or be in hipster heaven at its Fforest Gather event (14-27 August), where you can learn old-school crafts like cheesemaking and foraging. What to eat In Cardigan, Fforest’s quayside pop-up, Pizzatipi (pizzatipi.co.uk), serves award-winning wood-fired pizza. Nearby, Bara Menyn (baramenyn bakehouse.co.uk) sells organic sourdough, locally sourced all-day breakfasts and lunches, and modern bakes. All Fforest accommodation has fully equipped cooking facilities, and Glebelands organic fruit and vegetable roadside shack – a 10-minute

drive away – sells everything from mud-caked root vegetables to lesser-spotted leaves like Russian red kale (glebelandsmarketgarden. co.uk). Nearby, Llwynhelyg Farm Shop (llwynhelyg farmshop.co.uk) is an emporium of Welsh edibles, with local cheeses, local wines and homemade ready meals and cakes. Secluded sandy coves and breathtaking coastal walks provide free days out. Or learn to forage with local wild food expert Jade Mellor (wildpickings.co.uk). A short walk from camp, the River Teifi is one of the most beautiful in Wales – discover parts of the otherwise unreachable river gorge on a Heritage Canoes trip (heritage canoes.squarespace.com). How to do it Fforest offers a wide range of accommodation at the farm and in the surrounding area. Selfcatering, four-berth domes start at £150 for two nights (coldatnight.co.uk).

Ditch the pricey, congested south coast and head inland to the Tarn Valley, where lake and river beaches, plus steep wooded hills and rolling farmland, provide perfect hiking, biking and kayaking terrain. The Tarn is also home to some of France’s premier farms, producing Aubrac beef, Aveyron lamb and Ségala veal, plus the milk from which Roquefort cheese is conjured. What to eat Hire bikes from Les Magnolias, a pretty hotel in equally pretty Plaisance, a fortified Tarn hilltown (lesmagnoliashotel.com; from £8 per day), then pedal along quiet lanes, stopping for cooling river swims. Dine on the leafy terrace at La Chanterelle (mains around £10; 00 33 56355 3943), where charcuterie is so chunky that you simply have to use fingers. Hearty kids’ plates of steak haché come with decorative animals sweetly crafted out of fruit. Adults choose prime cuts of local beef, lamb and pork braised on open fires. Work off the excess with a day’s kayaking along the Tarn – the mini rapids make for easy navigation (canoekayak tarn.com; two-person kayak, £24). An evening at Farm Peyrouse ( fermedepeyrouse.fr) comes with hay rides, egg collecting and dinner in the

barn, including such local dishes as aligot: a cheesy, stretchy mash potato, usually topped with sausage. How to do it Seven nights at Résidence La Marquisié, in Trébas-les-bains, costs from £126 in a basic, one-bedroom apartment (sleeps four) with a kitchen, terraces offering cracking valley views, and use of the site’s indoor swimming pool (summerfrance.co.uk). London-Montpellier from £121 return (adult), £111 (child), by Eurostar and (fun!) double-decker TGV Duplex train; an easy seven-hour journey with a change in Paris (loco2.com). Rent a car from Montpellier station, two-and-a-half hours from Trébas. Sarah Barrell • Accommodation, transport and assistance for this feature was provided by: in Devon, canopyandstars.co.uk; in the Lakes, golakes.co.uk; in the Outer Hebrides, visitouter hebrides.co.uk; in Wales, coldatnight.co.uk; in Yorkshire, forestholidays. co.uk; and in the Tarn Valley, summerfrance.co.uk and loco2.com.

The scenic Tarn Valley

Barney Desmazery

MAY 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 133

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Be a better cook with expert tips and reviews from Barney Desmazery

Barney, our Food editor-at-large, has worked as a chef internationally and is a pro at adapting restaurant recipes to make at home. @barney_desmazery

YOUR WEEKEND CHALLENGE

Make your own goat’s curd Milder than goat’s cheese, goat’s curd is a fantastic ingredient to use with vegetables – but it’s surprisingly difficult to buy in shops. So why not make your own?

Goat’s curd

Portrait MYLES NEW

Once ready, the curd can be rolled into balls and coated in chopped herbs or cracked pepper. MAKES 200g PREP 5 mins COOK 15 mins MORE EFFORT V

3 Scrape the curd into a bowl, stir in the reserved milk, and season well with sea salt. Will keep in a container in the fridge for one week.

1 litre organic full-fat goat’s milk 3 tbsp organic apple cider vinegar

GOOD TO KNOW gluten free PER SERVING 33 kcals • fat 2g • saturates 1g • carbs 1g • sugars 1g • ibre none • protein 3g • salt 0.6g

1 Pour the milk into a saucepan, keeping 1 tbsp back. Heat the milk until it reaches 90C – use a digital cooking thermometer to measure it. Turn off the heat, stir in the vinegar, then leave to sit for a few mins until curdled. Sit a colander over a bowl and line with a double layer of cheesecloth. Pour the milk into the cloth, then gather together and tie the corners. 2 Hang the cloth over a bowl to separate the curds from the whey. The longer you leave it, the firmer it will be – 3 hrs is perfect for a soft curd, 6 hrs for a firmer curd.

Goat’s curd bruschetta SERVES 2 PREP 5 mins COOK 15 mins EASY V

Drizzle 2 bunches of vine cherry tomatoes with olive oil, season and roast in the oven at 200C/ 180C fan/gas 6 for 15 mins until just blistering. Meanwhile, griddle 2 slices of sourdough until charred. Spread with goat’s curd, top with the tomatoes and some shredded basil, drizzle with oil and serve. GOOD TO KNOW 1 of 5-a-day

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PER SERVING 265 kcals • fat 7g • saturates 2g • carbs 38g • sugars 6g • ibre 3g • protein 12g • salt 1.7g

MAY 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 135

ESSENTIAL KIT

Composting To grow your own veg, you need to add organic matter. What better source than kitchen waste? We asked Emma Crawforth, Gardening editor for BBC Gardeners’ World, about what you need to get composting

1 Kitchen caddy Collect kitchen waste (all fruit and veg, no meat) in a caddy ready to carry outside to the bin (see p8 for our best buys). Compost ingredients are heavy, so avoid a large caddy. Make sure it’s airtight to prevent smells. You need to be able to wash it frequently too.

4 Brown materials Paper, cardboard, dead leaves, straw and prunings need to be mixed with kitchen waste to make it ‘cook’ and help it to ‘breathe’. Alternate in layers with your green materials (see above right).

TAKE A COOKERY COURSE

Sri Lankan cooking class Battersea, London (cooksrilankan.co.uk) This year, food lovers will delve ever deeper into global cuisines. And right now, Sri Lankan food is hot (literally!). The success of Sri Lankan street-food restaurant Hoppers, in London’s Soho, has sent foodies hopper mad. These delicious coconutty, crisp pancakes are a Sri Lankan staple. But you don’t have to jump on a plane – or wait in a queue – to try them, thanks to the passionate Numi, whose cookery class uses exotic, little-known spices and ingredients to create delicious, healthy and iery dishes. From the ive menus on offer, I chose isso devilled (mouth-tingling prawns –

136 bbcgoodfood.com MAY 2017

3 Green materials Kitchen waste, grass clippings and weeds provide food for the organisms that process the compost. But don’t add too much green material without combining with brown materials or your compost will become wet and smelly. Emma Crawforth is a Kew-trained horticulturist and a keen compost maker (and veg grower). She is also the Gardening editor of BBC Gardeners’ World magazine.

the ‘devil ‘ being the abundance of chillies), ala kirata (a creamy, aromatic potato curry), katta sambola (a zingy onion and dry chilli salad) and – top of the list – hoppers. These require patience and skill, fermenting a dough overnight before mixing it with coconut milk and ‘baking’ in a mini wok-style hopper pan to create light, subtly sweet pancakes that form a bowl to pile your other creations in. Cost £70 per person. Courses last three-and-a-half hours. The price includes all the ingredients, a meal you can either eat with Numi or take away, and a goody bag of spices and recipes to use at home. Verdict Numi, who once ran a spice company in her native Sri Lanka, is a charming teacher and conveys her knowledge and skill in a welcoming environment – her own kitchen. Her hoppers are food at its most heavenly. Keith Kendrick

Compositng photographs GETTY Illustration LAUREN RADLEY

5 Compost bin Warm, damp compost rots down faster when contained in a bin. The bin needs vents to let in air, which need to be small enough to stop animals from climbing in to look for somewhere to nest. Easy access helps you to turn the compost (making it work faster). This bin (above) is an investment, but over time you’ll make your money back from not having to buy bags of compost. greatgreensystems.com/shop/ green-johanna

2 Biodegradable bin liners These bags make composting a doddle because you just transfer from the caddy straight to the bin. I’ve tried emptying ordinary bags and they’re liable to drip disgusting compost juice onto your clothing! These are available in most supermarkets, or can be bought in bulk online.

Easy smoothies with 6 ingredients or fewer Here’s our favourite green mix to set you up for the day. Each smoothie serves two

top it up with cold green tea

3 handfuls kale

small piece fresh turmeric

1 handful pineapple chunks

avocado

1 BITTER IS BETTER Top it up with water 2 handfuls spinach

2 celery stalks

small piece ginger

1 green apple

juice 1 lime

cucumber

2 FRESH AND CLEAN

top it up with coconut water

1 handful cashew nuts

3 handfuls spinach

1 handful pineapple chunks 1 pear 1 frozen banana

3 RAPID RECOVERY

STEP BY STEP

Indian street snack pani puri Indian food expert and tutor Anjula Devi visited the Good Food Test Kitchen to give a masterclass in how to make these vegetarian street-food snacks photographs DAVID COTSWORTH

Pani puri is a popular street food in India (in the north of the country, it’s known as golgappa). It consists of round, crisp, hollow puff of dough called a puri, filled with tangy flavours and contrasting textures. SERVES 4 6 PREP 1 hr 10 mins plus at least 2 hrs chilling and 1 hr resting COOK 40 mins A CHALLENGE V

For the pani water 25g pack mint 50g pack coriander 5g ginger 2 green chillies 2 tbsp tamarind pulp 1 tsp ground cumin 2 tsp red chilli lakes 1 /4 tsp asafoetida For the illing 400g can chickpeas, drained 2 large potatoes, diced into small cubes 1 /4 tsp asafoetida 1 tsp ground cumin 1 medium red onion, inely chopped small pack coriander, stalks left on, inely chopped 1 /2 lemon, juiced For the puris 1 tbsp plain lour 125g ine semolina 1 litre vegetable oil, for deep-frying, plus 1 tbsp 200g pomegranate seeds and sev (a noodle-like crisp snack), to serve

1

First, make the pani water. Put the mint, coriander, ginger, green chillies and tamarind in a blender with 500ml cold water and blitz into a paste. Add the rest of the ingredients and salt to taste. Mix well and chill in the fridge for at least 2 hrs. For the filling, put the chickpeas and potatoes in separate pans and cover both with water. Add the asafoetida to the chickpeas, then bring both pans to the boil. Reduce the chickpeas to a simmer and cook for a further 10 mins. Cook the potatoes until soft. Drain both together and leave to cool.

2 Anjula runs an Indian cookery school and catering company. She has just released her second cookbook, Spice for Life (£25, Clearview Books). anjuladevi.com

138 bbcgoodfood.com MAY 2017

3

Put the cooled chickpeas and potatoes in a large bowl with the other filling ingredients and some salt, and mix well. Can be made a day ahead. For the puris, put the flour and semolina in a large bowl with 1/2 tsp sea salt and mix well. Gradually add 4 tbsp of warm water until the mixture resembles a crumble. Leave to stand for 10 mins. Knead the dough for at least 10 mins, then add 1 tbsp of oil and knead for 5 mins more. Cover with a clean, damp tea towel and leave to rest for 40 mins. Once the dough has rested, oil your fingers with a little more oil, knead again for at least 5 mins and rest again for 30 mins. Once rested, knead again with a little oil for a further 5 mins. You should now have a very smooth dough. Heat the oil to 180C (if you don’t have a thermometer, heat until a small piece of bread turns golden brown in seconds). Divide the dough into three and work with one portion at a time, keeping the rest covered to stop it from drying out. Roll the dough out evenly and cut into discs. Fry four or five discs at a time, turning once and pushing down gently with a spatula to encourage the puris to inflate. Sizzle until light gold and puffed up. When the puris are puffed up, remove with a slotted spoon and drain on kitchen paper. Repeat with the rest of the discs until all the puris have been cooked. Serve with the filling, pani, pomegranate seeds and sev as described on p141.

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GOOD TO KNOW vegan • healthy • 1 of 5-a-day • ibre PER SERVING (6) 309 kcals • fat 10g • saturates 1g • carbs 43g • sugars 6g • ibre 6g • protein 9g • salt 0.5g

Next month: Romy Gill makes Nepalese momo dumplings

test kitchen step by step

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MAY 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 139

Jade Mellor, professional forager and wild food chef, says:

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GADGET REVIEW

Spicetech Make Your Own Chorizo With Machine, £49.99, spicelydoesit.com We have become a nation of chorizo lovers, and now there’s an easy way to make your own. Spicetech’s kit comes with a mincing machine, illing tubes, sausage casings, butcher’s twine and a curing mix, so all you need is pork, pancetta and red wine. Once you’ve made your sausages, ind a cool, dark place to hang them. Baste with vinegar a couple of times, and a few days later your rustic-looking chorizo loops are ready. Our moreish test sausages were nicely spiced, with a subtle kick of paprika and chilli that went down a storm. They came out irmer, drier and darker-coloured than the bright-red, soft cooking chorizo you ind in supermarkets, and could be eaten uncooked (perfect as tapas or to snack on with a cold Spanish beer). Verdict This makes a great starter project for anyone interested in trying out home curing or making their own sausages. The method is straightforward and the curing process only takes a week, so you’ll be able to sample your wares in next to no time. Although a little bit pricey, the kit’s sturdy and dishwasherfriendly machine can be used to make any type of sausage, so for a budding home butcher it would certainly be a good investment. Dominic Martin

140 bbcgoodfood.com MAY 2017

Spring is the traditional time to pick nettles, when the young tips are tender and at their best. Rich in vitamins (especially vitamin C) and minerals, they’re an overlooked superfood. The best way to harvest nettles is to wear long sleeves, put on washing-up gloves (if you like) and nip off the top six or so leaves with scissors. The leaves can be used like spinach but shouldn’t be eaten raw in salads. The sting is neutralised by cooking (in soups, stews or pasta sauces) or pulverising (for smoothies or pesto). The older leaves are best avoided. If the plant has started to lower, the leaves should no longer be eaten, but the plump green seeds will still have a fresh, nutty lavour. It’s usually easy to ind young nettles – I have a little patch in my garden, which I cut to keep a fresh supply for most of the year. Obviously, don’t gather from busy roads with traffic pollution, or at dog-pee height! See p42 for our nettle recipe. Jade runs tutored forages in West Wales. wildpickings.co.uk @wildpickings

HOT HACK When we ran out of the Korean chilli paste gochujang in the Good Food Test Kitchen, we mixed two parts miso paste to one part sriracha sauce and came up with a useful alternative.

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Illustration GEORGE BLETSIS

are appearing on more and more menus. Q Nettles What’s the lowdown on picking your own?

Photographs FOOD TREE IMAGES/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO, CLARE GAINEY/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO, GETTY, HANS PETER SIFFERT

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HOW TO EAT

Pani puri There are several elements to this light, crisp, Indian street-food snack that need to be quickly brought together. Turn to p138 for the full recipe.

5 FOODIE TIPS FOR MAY ADVENTURES As summer nears and the days Food and travel writer Catherine Quinn get warmer, prepare yourself for a whole lot of lovely with Catherine Quinn’s top tips and events, brought to you by Sunbites

1 1 Carefully tap a small hole in the middle of the puri shell with your inger, or with a teaspoon, as if you are eating a soft-boiled egg. You only want a hole in one side.

2 Spoon in the dry accompaniments, such as potato and chickpeas, and any thicker sauces, such as tamarind chutney.

Ludlow Spring Festival, Shropshire From Saturday 13-Sunday 14 May, enjoy the market town’s Spring Festival. There are lots of food and drink producers to discover, along with food demos to watch. ludlowspringfestival.co.uk

2 3

Asparagus all the way Take advantage of British asparagus being at its best this month. It’s tasty steamed or boiled as a side dish, but for the perfect brunch, grill it then serve it with a poached egg and hollandaise sauce on toast. River Cottage Spring Food Fair, Dorset From Saturday 27-Monday 29 May, celebrate the long weekend with River Cottage. You can try local cheeses, charcuterie and street food, go foraging in the gorgeous garden and soak up the entertainment, plus there are activities for the kids. rivercottage.net

4

Here comes the sun! Whatever foodie adventures you go on in May, take a bag of Sunbites with you. They’re a delicious wavy snack packed with wholegrains, available in yummy natural flavours such as Sweet Chilli and Sour Cream & Black Pepper.

3 Carefully pour in the chilled mint water so that the shell is about half full.

4 The only thing left now is to eat the whole thing in one go (taking a half bite will result in a messy disaster!). Your mouth will be illed with the tantalising combination of textures and zesty, tangy lavours that make this delicious snack so unique.

5

Love lamb? If you reignited your passion for lamb at Easter, why not try a cheaper cut now such as neck? It tastes great in a slow-cooked curry. For a rich sauce, add a dollop of sour cream before serving.

test kitchen on test

ON TEST

Under pressure If you still think of pressure cookers as rattling away on the stove about to blow a gasket, think again. Modern pressure cookers are simple to use. Here are Good Food’s favourites BEST ALL ROUNDER Prestige Hard Anodized Non-Stick Smartplus 6-litre pressure cooker, £79.99, prestige.co.uk The durable non-stick surface on this pan makes it very versatile, and we cooked a surprisingly good risotto. It was easy to clean too. Prestige gets top marks for thorough explanations, providing a broad understanding of how different foods work in the cooker so you don’t need to stick slavishly to a recipe. We liked the simplicity and sleekness of the design, and its lightweight feel. Suitable for all hobs, it’s also available in stainless steel.

star

Lakeland microwave pressure cooker, £37.99, lakeland.co.uk Despite its diminutive size, this microwave pressure cooker can still make more than enough food for three-to-four people. It’s very easy to use, with detailed instructions to take you right through to the completed dish. There are no options to brown or reduce to thicken, but for no-fuss cooks, the simplicity of this cooker was unsurpassed. Small and light, it can be easily tucked away in the cupboard.

BEST BUDGET BUY IKEA Värdesätta, £30 for 4 litre/£39 for 6 litre, ikea.com This reliable, no-frills pressure cooker is great value. The instructions and functionality are simple, but the lid could be easier to close. The handle takes up lots of room, and the cooker is too heavy to carry by the handle alone, although there’s an easy-carry grip on the other side. There’s no trivet or basket, which are essential for vegetables and joints of meat. However, you could buy these separately and still save. Suitable for all hobs.

142 bbcgoodfood.com MAY 2017

BEST FOR KEEN COOKS BergHOFF Eclipse pressure cooker set, £159.99, argos.co.uk With two differentsized pots, this set is ideal if you want to cook more than one thing. Plus, it’s suitable for all hob types. We liked that we could knock up a stew in the big pot and, while reducing it, cook veg in the smaller one. The instructions, opening and closing mechanism and steam release were very easy. The steam regulated well, but there was only one setting. We’d have liked more information about cooking times and some recipes.

BEST FOR BEGINNERS Tefal Clipso Plus 6-litre pressure cooker, £102.99, johnlewis.com This is a solid piece of kit that is suitable for all hobs and feels like it will stand the test of time. The foldaway handles make it much easier to store and accommodate in an average kitchen. Great heat distribution meant that the steam regulated well, so there’s no need to watch it too closely. This product has been designed with practical cooking in mind, even down to a larger veg basket with a handle on it.

WHAT WE LOOKED FOR Size and storage Is the pressure cooker easy to store? Does it have any features that make it more compact? Design We assessed the aesthetic credentials of each model. Cooking We tried a variety of recipes to really put the pressure cookers through their paces, including pulses, meats that take a long time to tenderise, and recipes with a lot of moisture to see if liquid escaped when the pressure was released. Ease of use We looked at how easy the model was to open and close, as well as at whether the functions and instructions were useful and straightforward.

Next month: knife sharpeners

Pressure cooker testing CAROLINE HIRE

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MAGAZINES

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BBC SHOWS

Head of magazines Keith Kendrick Senior art editors Rachel Bayly, Gareth Jones Junior designer Cherry Fermor Picture editor Gabby Harrington Chief sub-editor Art Young Deputy chief sub-editor Fiona Forman Sub-editor Marianne Voyle Editorial assistant Anna Lawson PA to Al ie Lewis Emma Bales Subscriptions director Helen Ward Subscriptions marketing manager Natalie London Head of production Koli Pickersgill Production manager Kate Gristwood Senior management accountant Len Bright Management accountant Noma-Afrika Pele Finance director Stephen Lavin Group marketing manager Tom Townsend-Smith Marketing executive Amy Donovan Reader offer manager Liza Evans [email protected] Head of newstrade marketing Martin Hoskins Newstrade marketing manager Charlotte Watts

bbcgoodfood.com Head of digital content Hannah Williams Editor Roxanne Fisher Deputy editor Natalie Hardwick Family editor Lily Barclay Writer Sarah Lienard Acting travel editor Sarah Barrell Digital assistant Georgina Kiely Product manager Mariana Bettio Head of digital publishing Alex White

Group advertising director Jason Elson Group head, brand Catherine Nicolson Senior sales, brand Abigail Snelling Sales executive, brand Krystan Irvine Group head, partnerships Josh Jalloul Senior sales, partnerships Emma Newman Senior sales, partnerships Rachel Tredler Project manager, partnerships Emily Griffin Trading advertising manager, print and digital Anna Priest Group head, digital partnerships Roxane Rix Senior sales, digital Carly Ancell Senior sales, inserts Harry Rowland Classi ied sales exec Tim Bennett Regional business development manager Nicola Rearden

Hub director Lulu Grimes Senior food editor Cassie Best Food editor-at-large Barney Desmazery Deputy food editor Miriam Nice Cookery writer Sophie Godwin Cookery assistant Elena Silcock

River Street Events Managing director Laura Biggs Commercial director Paul Patterson Editorial & production editor Sophie Walker bbcgoodfoodshow@ riverstreetevents.co.uk

INTERNATIONAL Director of international licensing and syndication Tim Hudson Syndication manager Richard Bentley International partners manager Anna Brown Licensing & syndication [email protected] Thanks this month to Bonnie Bryan, Gillian Carter, Glynn Christian, Neil Darby, Gemma Doyle, Jessica Findlay, Vanessa Grzywacz, Amanda James, Ceri Jones, Dominic Martin, Suzette Scoble, Tonia Shuttleworth, Sarah Snelling, Elaine Stocks, Sally Williams, Becci Woods, Joanna Zenghelis

CONTRIBUTING EDITORS Rosie Birkett Joanna Blythman Kathryn Custance (TV) Emma Freud Diana Henry Tom Kerridge Victoria Moore (wine) Marina O’Loughlin (travel) John Torode Kerry Torrens Joe Wicks

BBC BOOKS Editorial director Lizzy Gray Editor Charlotte Macdonald cmacdonald@penguin randomhouse.co.uk

MAGAZINE EDITORIAL REVIEW BOARD Catherine Catton Executive producer, factual commissioning, BBC content Clare McGinn Head of BBC network radio & production, Bristol Adrian Padmore Assistant commissioner, BBC Daytime & Early Peak Valentina Harris Sue Robinson

BRAND TEAM Publishing director Chris Kerwin

Editor-in-chief Christine Hayes

Creative director Martin Topping

Brand executive Natasha Gandotra

Senior PR manager Ridhi Radia

Head of partnerships Marc Humby

BBC WORLDWIDE

IMMEDIATE MEDIA

President, BBC Worldwide UK and ANZ Marcus Arthur Director of consumer products and publishing Andrew Moultrie Director of editorial governance Nicholas Brett Publisher Mandy Thwaites Publishing co-ordinator Eva Abramik [email protected]

CEO Tom Bureau Group publishing director Al ie Lewis Publishing director Simon Carrington

Digital partnerships executive Chelsea Docking

BBC Good Food magazine is owned by BBC Worldwide and published on its behalf by Immediate Media Company Limited, Vineyard House, 44 Brook Green, Hammersmith, London W6 7BT

Get the best from our recipes Our recipes are triple-tested: we cook them all three times to ensure they work for you • Always read the recipe thoroughly before starting, and use standard measuring spoons for accuracy. • Where possible, we use humanely reared British meats, free-range chicken and eggs, and sustainably sourced ish. • We help you to avoid waste by using full packs, or suggesting how to use leftovers. • If egg size is important, we’ll state it in the recipe. Helping you to eat well Our nutritional therapist analyses our recipes on a

per-serving basis, not including optional serving suggestions. You can compare these amounts with the Reference Intake (RI), the official amount an adult should consume daily: Energy 2,000 cals, Protein 50g, Carbohydrates 260g, Fat 70g, Saturates 20g, Sugar 90g, Salt 6g (please note, RIs for saturates, sugar and salt are maximum daily amounts). How we label our recipes Our vegetarian (V) or vegan recipes are clearly labelled, but check pack ingredients

150 bbcgoodfood.com MAY 2017

to ensure they’re suitable. If we say you can freeze a recipe (G), freeze it for up to three months unless otherwise stated. Defrost thoroughly and heat until piping hot. A low-fat recipe has 12g of fat or less per serving. A recipe is ‘healthy’ if it is low in saturated fat, with 5g or less per serving; low in salt, with 1.5g or less; and low in sugar, with 15g or less. A low-calorie recipe has 500 calories or less per main course, 150 calories or less for a dessert.

recipes always work We include the number of portions of fruit and/or veg in a serving, and the vitamins or nutrients that it contains. • Please note that recipes created for Advertisement features are checked by our cookery team but not tested in the Good Food Test Kitchen. • Our gluten-free recipes are free from gluten, but this may exclude serving suggestions. For more info, visit coeliac.org.uk. • We regret that we are unable to answer individual medical/ nutritional queries.

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Meat & game

Artichoke baba ganoush 92 Asparagus fries & baconnaise 38 Beetroot & chilli salsa 92 Charred onion & tomato salad 48 Chunky cucumber raita 97 Courgette, jalapeño & feta nachos 40 Curried cashew dip 92 Fermented wild garlic or spring onions 114 Goat’s curd 135 Goat’s curd bruschetta 135 Homemade vanilla extract 50 Leafy salsa verde with yogurt 92 Lime & carrot chilli pickle 52 Pan-fried potato gnocchi 52 Pani puri 138 Potato peel crisps 9 Preserved lemon & lime squeezes 46 Radish kraut 112 Tomato, smoked mackerel & dashi 70 Use-it-all-up stock 52 White cabbage & radish slaw 98

Asparagus & meatball orzo 104 Barbacoa 98 Braised lamb with spring veg & gremolata 52 Goan pulled pork 97 Homemade noodle pot 8 Mint chutney, barbecued lamb & potato salad 42 Russian shashlik with rhubarb sauce 64 Skinny BLT 108

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Drinks Bitter is better smoothie 137 Fresh and clean smoothie 137 Funky fermented ginger lemonade 114 Golden pineapple & vanilla iced tea 50 Rapid recovery smoothie 137 Rhubarb gin 64 Upcycled White Russian 13

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Breakfast muffins 80 Chive waffles with maple & soy mushrooms 78 Cinnamon & blueberry French toast 78 Coconut & banana pancakes 76 Mexican beans & avo on toast 81 Parisian Collins 68 Scrambled eggs & slow-roast tomatoes on toast 118 Smoky roasted veg, marinated feta & lime 46

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Poultry Cajun spiced chicken with quinoa 103 Chicken schnitzel Caesar 58 Coriander chicken with rice & spiced vegetables 119 Grilled chicken with red pepper sauce 72 Herby chicken gyros 108 One-pot poached spring chicken 57 MAKE OUR COVER RECIPE Pea, broad bean & rocket risotto with chicken 38 Pulled chicken with charred-lime guac & crispy skin 60 Slow-cooked Spanish chicken 98 Tom’s hot wings 58

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Fish & seafood Friday night rice 66 Grilled sea bass, crisp potato skins & crab butter 48 Lemony salmon & lettuce wraps 109 Sardine & asparagus traybake 104

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Vegetarian mains Asparagus, chilli & feta farfalle 86 Asparagus omelette 104 Courgette & caramelised red onion tart 84 Feta toast with minty beans 109 Halloumi latbreads 87 Healthy mac ‘n’ cheese 105 Moroccan chickpea, squash & kale stew 94 Nettle spanakopita 42 Pasta primavera 123 Pea & broad bean shakshuka 39 Roasted broccoli, Puy lentils & tahini yogurt 89 Satay noodle soup 88 Spring tabbouleh 88 Tex-Mex eggs 85 Veggie olive wraps with mustard vinaigrette 107

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RECIPE KEY

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Baking & desserts

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Chocolate chunk cookies 154 Churros with dulce de leche & whipped cream 72 Espresso mud cakes, chocolate syrup & ice cream 50 PBJ cookies 154 Peanut butter berry crisp 54 Pineapple passion bundt 47 Pumpkin seed cookies 154 Raw chocolate truffles 10 Rhubarb and ricotta bread & butter pudding 64 Salted caramel poke cake 121 Vegan banana & walnut bread 78 White chocolate & pretzel cookies 154 White Russian tart 29

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MAY 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 151

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To order your ice cream maker Call 0844 493 5654** quoting 71307 or visit clifford-james.co.uk/ 71307 or send your contact details, address and the codes and quantities of the item(s) you wish to order, along with a cheque payable to BVG Group, to: Good Food offer 71307, PO Box 87, Brecon LD3 3BE. Terms and conditions **Calls cost 7p per minute plus your phone company’s access charge. ‘Was’ pricing refers to the original selling prices offered on the promoter’s website, cjoffers.co.uk, and in its retail store. Delivery within seven working days to UK mainland only, some exclusions may apply. If not completely satis ied with your order, please return goods in mint condition and sealed original packaging for a refund within 30 days of receiving your order (postage costs will not be refunded unless faulty). Your contract for supply of goods is with BVG Group. A signature is required on delivery. Data protection BBC Worldwide Limited and Immediate Media Company Limited (publishers of BBC Good Food) would love to keep you informed by post, telephone or email of their special offers and promotions. Please state at time of ordering if you do not wish to receive these from BBC Worldwide or Immediate Media Company.

SUBSCRIBERS BBC Good Food subscribers can order for just £134.99. Turn to page 82 for your special subscriber code.

To order, call 0844 493 5654** quoting 71307 or visit clifford-james.co.uk/71307 152 bbcgoodfood.com MAY 2017

We love to hear from you. Get in touch at the addresses below, or ind us on Facebook, Instagram and Twitter @bbcgoodfood Write to BBC Good Food, Immediate Media Company Limited, Vineyard House, 44 Brook Green, Hammersmith, London W6 7BT Email us at [email protected] Find us on social media @bbcgoodfood and tag us #bbcgoodfood March 2017

recıpes always work

ius by gene n

wom

Nadiya’s cod & clementines Mary Berry’s i

star letter I have one word for your March issue – wonderful! Two of my favourite things combined: inspiring women and delicious food. I devoured the whole thing in one sitting. Such positivity oozing from the pages was a real treat. It made me realise that cooking is worth more

great eats #gfeatsout Every month, we ask a Good Food fan to recommend great places to eat and shop in their area. This month, Amanda James recommends The Bunch of Grapes in Bradford on Avon. thebunchofgrapes.com

thought than I currently give it. Now, I’ve got a whole list of books to buy, based on the food idols of your team and guests. There are too many names to mention, but I cant wait to get stuck in! Sarah Garstang, Lake District Sarah wins 12 bottles of Jean-Luc Colombo Les Pins Couchés Rosé 2015 (£10, Oddbins) This is a Provence-style rosé – dry, light and full of abundant red fruit characters. Team it with summer salads – perfect for a sunny picnic.

I just couldn’t wait until Easter to try the golden egg baked chocolate tart (April). The shortbread base made a nice change, and I brushed the chocolate shards with gold to match the eggs. It received a huge thumbs up all round, and my kids agreed the eggs were worth waiting for! Sophie Beynon, Edinburgh

your recipes #bbcgoodfood @jo_baaakes We can’t get enough of this beautifully pink raspberry & pistachio loaf cake (March), baked by Jo.

@sashealy Sarah made our spelt pizza bianco with Jersey Royals (April), but switched it up with a wild garlic pesto – yum.

This magazine is owned by BBC Worldwide and produced on its behalf by Immediate Media Co. London Limited. © Immediate Media Company London Limited, 2017. BBC Worldwide’s pro its are returned to the BBC for the bene it of the licence-fee payer. BBC Good Food provides trusted, independent advice and information that has been gathered without fear or favour. When receiving assistance or sample products from suppliers, we ensure our editorial integrity and independence are not compromised by never offering anything in return, such as positive coverage, and by including a brief credit where appropriate. We make every effort to ensure the accuracy of the prices displayed in BBC Good Food. However, they can change after we go to print.

My ive-year-old twins love cooking – and eating! While not as neat as yours, the boys enjoyed baking the easiestever biscuits (April). Here they are making a mess. Lisa van der Lem, Cornwall I laughed out loud at Emma Freud’s piece about teaching her sons to cook (March). I ind cooking with my kids Please check with the appropriate retailer for full details. Printed by Wyndeham Group. The text paper for BBC Good Food is printed on 65gsm Galerie Brite and the cover is printed on 170gsm Galerie Art, produced by Sappi Paper. It is elementally chlorine free and coated with china clay produced in the UK. Immediate Media Company is working to ensure that its paper is sourced from well-managed forests. This magazine can be recycled. Please dispose of it at your local collection point. We abide by IPSO’s rules and regulations. To give feedback about our magazines, visit bbcgoodfood.com, email [email protected] or write to Christine Hayes, Editor-in-chief, BBC Worldwide, Television Centre, 101 Wood Lane, London W12 7FA.

The Bunch of Grapes is an elegant bistro offering classic French dishes, wine imported from small producers in south-west France and seasonal cocktails. The steak frites is a must – the entrecôte is chargrilled over wood for a smoky finish. Both the service and food are always spot on, making this a firm favourite in my family. Know somewhere good in your area? A restaurant, a market, a great deli? Tell us what makes it stand out – we’ll publish a recommendation in every issue. Let us know on Facebook and Twitter using the hashtag #gfeatsout

(aged nine and seven) EXTREMELY stressful, and felt guilty for getting annoyed with them. Now I feel better about the kitchen disasters! I’ll try again when they’re older. Abi Taylor, West Wales

BBC Good Food magazine is available in both audio and electronic formats from National Talking Newspapers and Magazines. For more information, please contact National Talking Newspapers and Magazines, National Recording Centre, Heath ield, East Sussex TN21 8DB; email [email protected]; or call 01435 866102. If you are enquiring on behalf of someone who has trouble with their sight, please consult them irst.

MAY 2017 bbcgoodfood.com 153

last bite three twists

Smart cookies Who doesn’t love a gooey chocolate chip cookie? We give you a classic recipe, plus three ingenious lavour twists – perfect for using up bits and bobs you might have in the storecupboard recipes SOPHIE GODWIN photograph TOM REGESTER

1PBJ

Use just 70g butter and leave out the dark chocolate. Cream 50g peanut butter with the butter and sugars, then add 2 tbsp chopped peanuts along with the flour. Make a thumbprint in the centre of the cookies and fill each with 1 heaped tsp raspberry jam before baking.

Chocolate chunk MAKES 10 PREP 20 mins COOK 12 mins EASY G

1 Heat oven to 180C/160C fan/ gas 4 and line two baking sheets with parchment. Cream the butter and sugars together until very light and fluffy, then beat in the egg and vanilla. Once combined, stir in the flour, bicarb, chocolate and 1 /4 tsp salt. 2 Scoop 10 large tbsps of the mixture onto the trays, leaving enough space between each to allow for spreading. Bake for 10-12 mins or until firm at the edges but still soft in the middle – they will harden a little as they cool (no one likes an overbaked cookie!). Leave to cool on the tray for a few mins before eating warm, or transfer to a wire rack to cool completely. Will keep for three days in an airtight container. PER COOKIE 308 kcals • fat 16g • saturates 10g • carbs 35g • sugars 21g • ibre 2g • protein 3g • salt 0.5g

2Pumpkin seed

Substitute 50g flour with 3 tbsp cocoa powder. Add 50g toasted pumpkin seeds along with the chocolate, then sprinkle with a pinch of flaky sea salt before baking.

DON’T MISS NEXT MONTH’S

chocolate 3White & pretzel

Substitute the dark chocolate for 100g chopped white chocolate and 50g mini pretzels. Break some of the pretzels up a little, but keep others whole to decorate the tops of the cookies.

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Father’s Day feast • Summer entertaining: easiest-ever Thai recipes, three twists on scones 154 bbcgoodfood.com MAY 2017

Food styling SOPHIE GODWIN Styling FAYE WEARS

120g butter, softened 75g light brown sugar 75g golden caster sugar 1 medium egg 1 tsp vanilla extract 180g plain lour 1 /2 tsp bicarbonate of soda 150g dark chocolate, cut into chunks

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