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1913 PONNIER
RACER
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December2017
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FSM DEC 17 COVER.indd 1 31/10/2017 12:14
FSM DEC 17 IFC.indd 1 30/10/2017 11:15
FLYING SCALE MODELS - THE WORLD’S ONLY MAGAZINE FOR SCALE MODEL FLYERS
DECEMBER 2017 FLYINGSCALEMODELS 3
Formation...
ON THE COVER
The Supermarine Seafire series of Royal
Navy Fleet fighters is our ‘Subjects for
Scale’ feature this month. Of these, the
tear-drop cockpit canopy, fully eliptical wing
variant is perhaps the prettiest? This one is
Kennet Aviation’s lon ago recued from a
scrap mechant’s clutches, now fully
restored to airworthy condition and one of
only two Seafires still flyable worlwide.
www.flyingscalemodels.com
THE ISSUE AHEAD...
6
18
40
DECEMBER 2017 NO.217
4 CONTACT
Just for starters
6 PONNIER racer 40
An easy-to-build 40" wingspan pioneer racer for electric power,
designed by Peter Rake
10 SCALE SOARING
Chris Williams reports the White Sheet Scale Fly-in and
reveals the success of his latest not-so-large build project
14 WESTLAND WIDGEON IN DETAIL
A close-up detail photo study in support of our October issue
construction feature for Phil Kent’s Widgeon Mk.III
18 FOKKER E.III EINDECKER
A large, 1:8th scale free flight rubber-powered replica of the
famous WW1 warbird designed by Andrew Hewitt
24 SO WHAT IS PRETENSIONING?
...and what can it do for the performance of a rubber powered
free flight scale model?
26 THE FOKKER EINDECKERS
The development of this famous line of aircraft and the impact
it had on fighter aircraft design the early years of WW1
34 EINDECKER SCALE DRAWING
1:40 detailed scale three-view drawings
36 EINDECKER FLYING COLOURS
Warpaint of the ‘Fokker Scourge’
40 SUBJECTS FOR SCALE
The SuPermaRine Seafire series
Produced, at least initially, in something of an act of
desperation, progressive mix-and-match development
paralleling the land-based Spitfire series evenually
produced an excellent Carrier based Fleet fighter
48 SEAFIRE Mk. XVII SCALE DRAWING
1:50 scale drawings
50 SEAFIRE Mk.XVII IN DETAIL
Kennet Aviation’s restored and fully airworthy example
54 INSTRUMENT PANEL
Follow Mike Alexander's step-by-step route to scalish
instrument panels: scale realism without too much effort
60 the QUIET ZONE
Peter Rake proposes more indoor flying fun with a colourful
Depron foam Grumman F3F-3 biplane
64 GRUMMAN FLYING COLOURS
Some alternative colour scheme for your Indoor profile F3F-3
FORMATION DEC Tony OK 31/10/17 12:34 Page 3
Editor: Tony Dowdeswell
Publisher: Alan Harman
Design: Peter Hutchinson
Website: Webteam
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4 FLYINGSCALEMODELS DECEMBER 2017
A
mong the choices of subjects for scale modelling, it is the
pre-jet era that predominates - unsurprising perhaps, since
model-size gas turbines are very much a loads-o-money
proposition! On top of that, there’s a whole new string of
techniques to learn. It’s nice to see the scale jets in action
and one admires those who operate them though.
This month’s issue of FSM majors in two widely separate periods of
aviation, but both are warbirds ... and fighter aircraft at that. The Fokker
Eindeckers have been hailed as the first real fighter aircraft, thanks to
the introduction of a workable interrupter gear that allowed a machine
gun to fire through the propeller arc without destroying the prop.
blades and thus allowing the classic fighter attack technique of pointing
the aircraft directly at the target, usually from the rear.
Our Fokker E.III construction feature this month is for rubber power -
very much a minority interest in terms of outdoor scale but,
nonetheless, a branch of our hobby that has its own particular
challenges that are worth experiencing.
A far more potent fighter is our Subjects for Scale feature this issue.
In comparison with the Supermarine Spitfire, its seagoing
contemporary the Seafire gets little attention, but it can make a nice
change from Spits. Included in this feature is the very pretty Seafire
Mk. XVII, which provides a detail photo study of the airworthy example
magnificently restored and operated by Kennet Aviation.
This Seafire was built by Westland Aircraft Ltd. at Yeovil, was handed
over to the Royal Navy Fleet Air Arm in May 1946, and finally
withdrawn from operational use in 1954. Sold as scrap, the airframe
languished in the Joseph Brierley & Son scrap yard in Warrington,
Lancashire, together with parts of another Mk.XVII until, in1973, the
fuselage was recovered by Peter J.Wood, rebuilt to airworthiness, and
put on the British civil register as G-BRMG in September 1989 where
she remained until 2001.
That year, the aircraft went to a new owner; Tim Manna, of Cranfield
for a long-term restoration, to be re-registered G-KASX (Kennet
Aviation SX(336)). Given her original Fleet Air Arm colour scheme, the
Seafire flew again in 2006. It is currently the only airworthy Seafire on
the UK register and one of two still flying worldwide.
CONTACT
LONDON MODEL ENGINEERING
EXHIBITION 2018
The South’s largest annual Model Engineering & Modelling
Exhibition returns to its Alexandra Palace venue in January from the
19th - 21st. This exhibition is regarded as one of the leading model
shows in the UK and attracts over 14,000 visitors and covers the full
spectrum of modelling from traditional model engineering, steam
locomotives and traction engines through to trucks, boats, aircraft,
helicopters and robots.
Over 50 clubs and societies will be present displaying their
members’ work and competing to win the prestigious Society
Shield. In total, nearly 2,000 models will be on display.
Organisers expect to welcome the return of the British Model
Flying Association, Tamiya Trucking Group, Brickish - the UK Tank
Club, The Imagineering Foundation and the Polly Owners Group
who provide passenger rides behind the 5” gauge steam
locomotives within the Great Hall.
All of the leading suppliers will also be present showcasing new
products and special promotions and giving hobbyists an excellent
opportunity to see and compare products under one roof. You will
be able to purchase virtually anything you need for your next model
or project or to get you started in a hobby.
Dates & Times:
Friday 19th - Sunday 21st January 2018
Open 10am - 5pm Friday and Saturday and 10am - 4.30pm Sunday.
Last entry is 4.00pm Friday and Saturday and 3.00pm Sunday.
Model Active Zone closes at 3.30pm on the Sunday
Ticket office opens at 9.00am each morning before the event opens
at 10.00am
Tickets may be booked in advance at
www.londonmodelengineering.co.uk or by phone on 0871 3861118.
CONTACT Tony OK.QXT 31/10/17 13:58 Page 2
BELAIR MAR 17.indd 1 25/01/2017 12:23
1913 PONNIER
RACER
FULL SIZE FREE PLAN FEATURE
An easy-to-build 40" span pioneer racer for electric power,
designed by Peter Rake
B
efore I go any further, I have to
say that my only reference for this
model was a peanut scale,
rubber power plan. However,
since that reference source was
designed by a builder known for scale
accuracy, it seemed good enough as the
basis of the ‘character’ scale models I
favour. In fact, this is the second version of
the model I have designed; the first flew
so nicely that I was prompted to build a
smaller, easier-to-transport, version of the
same basic design.
THE MODEL
Like it’s larger predecessor, the model
presented here can be built either with, or
without the wing warping feature of the
original aircraft. Because of the dihedral
(non-scale), the model flies very much the
same either using wing warping, or rudder
control to steer it. The only proviso I would
make is that, if using wing warping, you rig
the wings with a small amount of washout
to help eliminate adverse yaw by
reducing the amount the tip moves
downwards. Unfortunately, because only
the lower cables can be used to warp the
wings (as these were on the original) and
because some control movement is lost
through the upper, idler cables, without
the washout you can get some very
strange results when trying to turn the
The model in a gentle, climbing bank induced by using combined wing warp and elevator control.
6 FLYINGSCALEMODELS DECEMBER 2017
PONNIER 40 Tony OK.qxd 31/10/17 12:17 Page 2
model by warping the wings.
The original model initially turned right,
whichever way you warped the wings
but, already aware of this characteristic,
the wash out prevents that happening on
this version.
You’ll see from the photos that the
fuselage drawing doesn’t quite match the
photos. All those diagonal braces were
added because I used wood that was too
thin for the longerons, so the rear fuselage
ended up feeling a bit too flexible for my
liking. Therefore the plan has been
updated to show heavier wood longerons
and no diagonal braces, which is a much
tidier arrangement and easier to build to
boot. Just make sure that the wood used
for the longerons isn’t too soft. Uprights
and cross braces need be no more than
medium balsa but the longerons should
be either hard balsa or bass if you can’t
get hard balsa.
Whichever way you go, warping or non-
warping, with either diagonal braces or
thicker longerons, you’ll find the model
very stable and easy to fly - not a trainer
by any means, but easy to fly compared
with many scale models.
Don’t discount the all-wood, glued-in-
place, landing gear; it works well and
avoids the need for wire bending and
soldering. Assemble the legs over the
plan, add the reinforcing and epoxy them
securely into formers F2 and F4. The slots in
the formers will set the correct angles and
the axle can be slipped in place and
bound with elastic thread to provide
some suspension.
Whilst some sources (including the
original drawing that inspired this model)
show open spoked wheels, some photos I
have seen of the full size appear to show
covered wheels but although I went with
spoked wheels because I prefer the look,
covered, WW1 style wheels are an
easier option.
FUSELAGE
As a swift study of the plan sheets will
reveal, the fuselage is built as two
separate basic box structures. The
forward, sheet-sided part and the rear,
built-up section are then joined and the
longerons trimmed off flush with the sheet
sides. I find this to be the surest way to
arrive at a straight, twist-free fuselage and
the procedure has worked extremely well
on countless models.
Begin the front section by gluing in place
the ply doublers around the wing joiner
tube holes. Just make sure you end up
with one left and one right side. Also, bind
the pylon wires to F2B and F4, but don’t
glue the bindings at this stage.
Next, assemble parts F1, F2 and F2A,
ensuring that each part is glued in place
at 90 degrees to its adjoining part. Don’t
be tempted to use CA glue for this
assembly unless you also intend to employ
fillets of either epoxy or PVA to reinforce
the joints. This is one of the most highly
stressed areas of the entire model, so
needs to be glued really securely.
Now, use this assembly and F4 to join the
two fuselage sides. Once again ensure
that the previous assembly is securely
glued and that the entire structure
remains perfectly square.
Temporarily fit the undercarriage legs
into their slots and make up the 1/8” balsa
fill pieces to fit around them against F2
and F4. Glue these in place AFTER the
undercarriage legs have been removed -
It’s much easier, and neater, to cover the
fuselage if there isn’t an undercarraige in
the way, so we don’t want the legs
inadvertently glued in place at this point.
F2B and F3 can now be added, followed
by the 1/16” balsa decking. Add the
rough shaped block balsa nose (suitably
hollowed to fit around the motor) and
glue in place part N. Now you can solder
up the apex of the pylon wires and glue
the bindings. Note the differing
arrangements for the rigging cables, a
simple wire loop for the fixed rigging or
the slightly more technical loop required if
you want wing warping.
At this stage, you can now epoxy in
DECEMBER 2017 FLYINGSCALEMODELS 7
CONSTRUCTION
With the top decking in place the pylon wires are ready to be
joined and have the rigging loop added.
The two basic fuselage boxes ready to join. The diagonal braces
are only required with too flimsy longerons. (see text)
With the landing gear temporarily in place you can see just how much
space there is in the fuselage for fitting the radio gear and battery.
Here you see that sharp edge retained where the nose curves in.
The nose ‘block’ is actually made up from various pieces of balsa.
PONNIER 40 Tony OK.qxd 31/10/17 12:17 Page 3
place the brass wing joiner tubes.
The rear fuselage is simplicity itself. Build
two identical side frames over the plan,
allow these to dry and then join them over
the plan using matched pairs of cross
braces and parts TS. Ensure it all remains
perfectly straight and square and allow
this sub-assembly to dry. Now join the front
and rear fuselage sections, once again
ensuring it all remains straight. Add the
upper surface fill pieces and the triangular
stringers.
Finish shaping the nose block, sand
overall and your fuselage is now ready
to cover.
TAIL SURFACES
With the possible exception of the
laminated rudder outline, construction of
the tail surfaces really couldn’t be much
easier - just a matter of gluing laser cut
(you did buy the cut parts set from the
publisher?) parts and strip wood together
over the plan, a bit of sanding and then
joining the elevators.
As for that laminated outline, although
looking quite flimsy it is actually very strong
for its weight. The wood used needs to be
no harder than medium balsa, but the
strips should be well soaked in hot/warm
water before they are glued together
(woodworking glue), then pulled into
shape around a former and held there
until both glue and water have
completely dried out.
Many people laminate outlines around a
‘fence’ of pins pushed into the plan.
However, I don’t advocate that method
because it’s far too likely to cause creases
in the inside lamination. I’ve also seen it
suggested that the inside layer be very
thin ply to avoid that, but I’m not keen on
that idea either because it must
complicate the finish-sanding of the
completed assemblies.
My preferred method of laminating
outlines is to make a foam (1/8” depron or
thick card) former with the edges either
waxed (rubbed with a candle) or
protected with Sellotape so the wood
won’t stick to it. Thereafter, the well
soaked (still dripping wet) strips are glued
together, taped to one end of the former
and pulled around it - taping at intervals
as required.
By pulling the laminated strips, keeping
them under tension, there is less likelihood
of any cracking. Then, you just weight the
former down flat and allow the glue to
completely dry before removing the
laminated shape from the former.
Alternatively you can pin down the
former before wrapping, securing the
strips against the former with scrap pieces
of balsa - also waxed to prevent sticking.
WINGS
Now, when you see that every rib is
different and that two of them require
pretty precise drilling, I bet you’re glad
you decided to go with the laser cut short
kit made available by the publisher. If not,
you need to be aware that the wing
mounting tube holes in R1 and R2 are at
different heights in each rib, the reason
behind this, is that once the tubes are
glued into place, they will automatically
set the dihedral once the panels are
plugged onto straight wire joiners that
pass right through the fuselage tubes. So,
as you can imagine, those holes need to
be precisely positioned in the ribs if that is
to work out as intended.
Before you can actually begin building
the wings, you’ll need to laminate up the
pre-curved tip pieces. The exact curve
isn’t that important - just that it roughly
approximates the undercamber of the
wing section itself.
Once these are dry, position them over
8 FLYINGSCALEMODELS DECEMBER 2017
CONSTRUCTION
Making sure all the ribs are an easy sliding fit onto
the spar. Spar has yet to have its’ end notched and
tapered.
The fairly simple structure of the model is revealed
here. Surprising modern looking, isn’t it?
The wing after assembly,
but prior to having the
rigging blocks fitted.
The Ponnier makes an unusual, interesting and rather attractive model.
PONNIER 40 Tony OK.qxd 31/10/17 12:17 Page 4
Get straight down to construction without delay!
This month’s full size free plan feature is supported
by a laser-cut set of ready-to-use balsa and
plywood components. This provides the parts that,
otherwise, you would need to trace out onto the
wood before cutting out and includes wing ribs
and tips, tail centre parts, fuselage
doublers, top deck,formers etc.
IT DOES NOT INCLUDE STRIP
AND SHEET MATERIAL OR
SHAPED WIRE PARTS
Price £32.00
plus carriage: £11.50 (UK); Europe £26.00
Order set CUT/FSM532
Shipping Note: For shipping to destinations outside the UK and
Europe, you will be charged our standard flat-rate price of £49.
This covers most destinations and secures your order with us.
However, we will contact you accordingly with an accurate
total shipping charge prior to dispatch and either issue a
refund or a PayPal money request for the balance.
Visit our secure website:
www.flyingscalemodels.com
to order yours
1913 PONNIER
RACER
Order direct from:- Doolittle Media, Doolittle Mill, Doolittle Lane,
Totternhoe, Bedfordshire, LU6 1QX, UK. Tel: 01525 222573/
[email protected].
CUT PARTS
SET FOR THE
DECEMBER 2017 FLYINGSCALEMODELS 9
the plan, trim to length and use them to determine just how much of a
notch you need to cut into the end of the spars to fit over them as the
wings are built. Tapering the end of the spar is also easier at this stage,
rather than after it’s built into the wing.
A point worth checking, bearing in mind how variable wood sizes can
be, is that all the ribs are an easy, sliding fit onto the spars. If your spar is
a tight fit, it’s worth sanding it lightly until the ribs can easily be slid into
position without the risk of them breaking. Don’t worry about
weakening the spar because the actual flying loads are taken by the
rigging, not the spar. Yes, it does mean that rigging the model is
essential, and that the rigging is functional, not ...
