AFV Modeller - Issue 02 - 6 - Winter Wonderland Part 2. Russian T40 Amphibious Tank

WINTER WONDERLAND

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Part Two

Russian T40 Amphibious Tank

By Doug Jameson

White washing

I've got two methods for winter 'white wash' camo: 'wipe on' and

There are some modellers who are intimidated

With the 'wipe on' technique finishes are applied in successive

by winter 'white wash' camouflage. Actually I

'wipe off'.

layers. It's the simplest of the two methods and I use it to represent vehicles in the early winter stages, before extensive

find it the easiest of finishes. No ones going

weathering has occurred.

to look at it and say, " the colour's wrong ".

The second, 'wipe off' technique is more involved and requires

The contrast of light to dark simplifies detail

the removal of areas of the 'white wash' camo. I feel this method is worth the extra effort as it's far better at representing the

finishing : no dark washes and light

extreme wear of vehicles that have made it to the end of a

drybrushing trying to highlight a rivet or bolt.

winter of fighting.

And there is the visual impact of a white

Taking into account the T40's thin armour and it's unintended role

vehicle amongst all those olive drab, khaki

as a battle tank, I decided to go with the simpler 'wipe on'

brown, Russian green or Panzer grey vehicles filling the display cases.

technique. I thought I'd be safe in assuming that not too many of these little recon tanks made it to the extreme weathering stage of late winter.

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Example T26 showing the ‘Wipe On’ technique

Example Panzer IV showing the ‘Wipe Off’ technique

Without having to go into construction detail I can start this piece at the stage where the major upgrades and modifications are complete. A light spattering of 'mud' has been applied to the tracks, running gear and lower hull and the entire model base coated with Floquil's Brunswick Green mixed with their Reefer White. ( approx. 75% green to 25% white ) After allowing the base coat to 'set up' over night the finer details; rivets, vision slots with rain guards, hinges, etc. were added and sprayed with the Floquil base coat mixture.

The assembled kit showing the added details prior to painting

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Almost all of the paints I use for base coats are lacquer based. Acrylics and I don't get along and I've had too many 'curing' problems with enamels. The solution to these problems was pretty simple. Avoid acrylics and pour off the enamel carrier that rises to the top of the jars and replace it with lacquer thinner. With the model's detailing about 90% complete I started applying the 'dirt'. Various shades and tones of browns were sprayed onto the tracks, running gear and lower hull. At this stage I don't get too concerned about incomplete coverage or over spray on the fenders or hull. An hour or two later with the 'dirt' dry enough for gentle handling a coat of 'white wash' was brushed on.

Above & Below - The model in its base coat

Below - The first application of whitewash

More care was given to coverage on the turret and upper hull while the lower hull and running gear received less attention. After a few minutes a light spray of the same 'white wash' mixture was used to blend the hard edged brush strokes on the turret and upper hull. The lower hull and running gear was left alone. The 'white wash' mixture is approx. 25% white acrylic, 20% Pelikan Graphic White, 5% Pelikan Concentrated Designers' Colour #012, Mixing Black and 50% water. The model was then set aside for a couple of weeks.

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I've seen modellers start weathering models a day or two after their base coats have been applied…now, unless they're using acrylics they could run into trouble. All lacquers and enamels require at least two weeks to cure. It doesn't matter if they're dry to the touch minutes or hours after spraying…to harden properly and prevent damage from oil washes lacquers and enamels need two weeks curing time. So relax. Start a new kit, look over some references…say hi to the wife and kids.

Weathering Intro.

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It used to be that I'd apply an overall oil wash of black/brown, a couple of spot washes of 'rust', a lot of drybrushing and…tada…finished. It wasn't a bad technique, it was fast, but after a

The assembled kit showing the added details prior to painting

while all the models started looking the same.

It didn't matter whether the vehicle was in North Africa, North West Europe, Russia, whatever. They all looked the same. I've since started using a different technique, certainly more labour intensive, but I think it allows for greater weathering flexability. As well; thoughts of how long the vehicle's been in action, which theatre of operations it's in, what's the climate like; have entered the picture. Now I can finish a vehicle that's been in North Africa for one month and it will look different from the same vehicle in North Africa six months later. I don't want to give the impression that this technique is the 'be all and end all', it's not, but it is easier to adapt and modify than the " soak'em and brush'em " technique I used to use.

I began the weathering on the T40 by applying water soluble Pelikan Concentrated Designers' Colour (mixed to match the base coat) to simulate chiping and flaking of the 'white wash'. A few minutes later thinner based oil washes were applied.

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❄ The assembled kit showing the added details prior to painting

These oil washes were mixed in a variety of strengths and

The Pelikan pigments are extremely fine. The fine pigments

colours and applied to specific areas or details Stains were

combined with a very fine brush allow for a level of control I

added with either an oil wash or diluted Designers' Colour.

can't get with other mediums.The paints' opaqueness and

Rust chips were added with the Designers' Colours Mud and

coverage are outstanding, one coat's all that required.

dirt was highlighted with oil washes and Designers' Colour

The durability is surprisingly good for a water soluble paint;

Steaking effects were added by dragging a moistened fine

gentle handling doesn't seem to affect the finish nor do oil

point brush from the water soluble Pelikan Designers' Colours

washes.

paint chips and scratches. Unfortunately there are down sides to these paints. Because they are water soluble they will not adhere well to I've found Pelikan Designers' Colour ideal for the final

semi-gloss or gloss finishes. They tend to bead when wet and

weathering stages for several reasons. Primarily because they

will flake off when dry. Plus, they are expensive,a 1 3/4 oz. Jar

get rid of the 'fear factor'; the knowledge that mistakes are

costs about the same as a high quality artist's oil paint tube. A

going to be made and there's nothing to be done about it.

jar will probably last several modelling lifetimes but the initial

With the Designers' Colours when a mistake is made a few

outlay is steep.

wipes with a clean, water soaked 'Q' Tip or brush removes the Designers' Colour without damaging the base paints. 49

WINTER WONDERLAND

Part Two

Drybrushing

Conclusion

I definitely kept to a minimum and very localised at that.

Hopefully I've shown that a winter 'white wash' camouflage

If or when I do drybrush it's the reverse of the lighter and lighter

finish isn't anymore difficult than any other finish.

method used by most.

The main points are the same: good reference photos and

It doesn't matter if it's winter camo, dusty monochrome or

confidence.

three colour camo…I usually use the base vehicle colour.

The water soluble paints won't prevent mistakes but at least

This base colour is mixed with a bit of furniture paste wax and

they're easy to correct and that goes a long way in boosting

lightly drybrushed on specific high wear areas.

my confidence.

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In this case Brunswick Green mixed with the paste wax was dry brushed onto the hatches and turret edges.

Acknowledgements and References

15 or 20 minutes later a clean, dry brush, drybrushed over the

Thanks to Missing Links (www.missing-lynx.com)

edges buffed up the sheen of the paste wax.

And it's gallery of incredible models by the world's best…inspirational!

Eventually the remaining 10% of the model's detailing was

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added and painted.

Russian Tanks and Armoured Vehicles 1917-1945

I got so tired of spending time on my hands and knees looking

An Illustrated Reference by Wolfgang Fleischer

for clasps and wing nuts snapped off during 'weathering' that

Published by Schiffer Military History

now these things are added after.

ISBN: 0-7643-0913-7

Armes Militaria Magazine Hors Serie #9 Bataille Pour Moscou 1941-42, Premier Hiver en Russie

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❄ The finished model with worn winter paint

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