AFV Modeller - Issue 22 - 6 - KV-1 Model 1940

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Adam Wilder Constructs an UP-Gunned KV-1 Model 1940 with Swaged Turret

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My Love for This Ugly Vehicle

GermanTiger and Panther tanks were so

formerly closed to the west. Over the past

popular while the KV tanks had generated

three years I have found literature, photos

I have always loved modeling the T-34. It

far fewer after-market items, quality kits

and scaled line-drawings about the

was well built with an effective design that

and periodicals. I constructed half a dozen

Russian KV Tanks (and other armoured

resulted in a number of variants. But it was

KV tanks during my early modeling years,

fighting vehicles) that I could have only

initially the KV tanks that spawned my

but eventually became more interested in

dreamed of obtaining during the early

interest in modelling Russian armour of the

the T-34 Tanks because of the new kits

1990s.The Russian publication "Frontline

Second World War. I purchased an old

available, the better availability of literature,

Illustration" has published a two-part series

Tamiya KV-II kit back whenI first started

the numerous after-market items and the

devoted to the KV tank and its variants.

modelling during the fall of 1992. The size

interesting variants produced such as the

The photos, 1/35 scale line drawings and

of the assembled model, its simplicity and

SU-122 and SU-85 self propelled guns.

colored illustrations make these books a

downright ugliness captivated me. I

The collapse of the Soviet Union resulted in

"must" for any modeler interested in

remember wondering why the

a flood of publications from these lands

constructing KV tanks.

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Model 1940

The KV model 1940 was the first series of

ago to construct masters for them. They

The Classic Tamiya KV Kits

KV tanks to be put into production. A few

mentioned the possibility of designing

The Tamiya KV kits have been available to

modifications were made to the heavy tank

some turrets to improve the quality of the

modelers since the 1970s. Tamiya

to reduce its cost and lead-times. For

existing KV kits on the market. Very excited

manufactures three models of the KV tank.

example the rounded rear section of the

about this proposal, I immediately thought

These models are the KV-C, KV-1B and

turret was omitted in favor of a simpler,

of the early KV-1 with the rounded (or

KV-II variants.

square design. The long stowage bins

"Swaged") turret. I have also designed a

were also replaced with smaller

76mm L-11 gun for MIG Productions. This

Based on my own research I have

rectangular types seen on most of the KV

gun is included with the same resin turret

concluded that Tamiya initially

variants. There were, however, a number of

and parts in another kit called the KV1

manufactured the Russian KV-1C. This is

early rounded turrets placed on the KV

mod 1939 L11 Conversion Set. You can

because of the flat bars protecting the

1940 production tanks. Some of these rare

construct a KV model 1940 tank containing

turret ring that are molded onto the upper

KV tanks were armed with the early 76mm

a rounded turret armed with the 76mm L-

hull. These details are also on their KV-1B

L-11 gun while others, like most of the

11 gun using all of the same steps

and KV-II model kits. I have not seen these

1940 production types, were re-armed with

discussed in this article. Other than the

flat bars in photos on any of the early KV

the 76mm F-32 gun.

76mm L-11 gun, you will want to remove

tanks such as the Type-II and Type-1B. The

the hull MG and replace it with a plug

mounts for the shackles located at the

The Spanish modeling company MIG

identical to the ones covering the pistol

front and rear of the lower hull are also

Productions approached me around a year

ports on each side of the turret.

welded on all of the Tamiya kits. These

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Model 1940

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mounts were rivetted on the earlier

Constructing the Hull

need to be removed. These details include

production KV series including the KV-1B

Photos 1 to 2

the welded steel ingots to protect the

40 41and KV-II variants. The extra welded

A lot of the old Tamiya kits make good

turret ring and also some bolts on the rear

armor on the lower hull front is provided

models. But a common problem most of

hatches. I used a Dremel rotary tool to

with all three kits. I have observed this

these kits share are motorization holes for

eliminate the majority of these details. The

extra armor in photos of the KV-1B and

small battery operated engines that are no

remainders of these unneeded parts were

type-C variants, but not on the KV-II tanks.

longer included. The MIG Productions KV

removed using a file and a flat hobby

The bolts on the upper hull of the Tamiya

m40 conversion includes plugs that will

blade. Putty was added and later sanded

models match the simplified pattern used

quickly and easily fill these holes. They fit in

smooth to fix any scars made to the upper

to help reduce lead-times on the later KV

snug leaving small gaps on the hull exterior

hull while using the Dremel tool and hobby

tanks such as the type-C.

that can be filled with putty. I also added

knife.

four pieces of Evergreen brand sheet The hatches of the KV-1B and KV-II appear

plastic to the edges of the lower hull.

Photos 6 to 9

to be too small. I think that Tamiya

These Evergreen pieces helped me to

I opted to remove the plastic fenders from

designed these hatches to fit the holes on

align the walls on the upper and lower hull

the upper hull in preparation for

their upper KV hull, that was initially

pieces. Aligning the hull walls is very

photoetched

manufactured as a type-C. Keeping all of

important if you choose to add brass

brass replacements. I started the

this in mind, let us now move onto the

fenders.

operation by making a rough cut using a Dremel tool equipped with a cut-off wheel.

conversion and the after-market items I used to help me capture the appearance

Photos 3 to 5

After removing large sections, I filed the

of this important Tank.

As I stated above, the Tamiya KV hulls are

remainder of the fenders flush to the hull

molded to represent a type-C variant. To

side using a flat file. Again, putty was used

backdate the hull, some molded on details

to fix any accidental scars. Three different

1

2

3

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5

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7

8

9

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11

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15

16

17

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grits of sand paper were used to smoothen

edges at the hull front. I scribed the edges

fabricated from sheet metal. I have

the areas where the fenders had been.

of the hull side plates using the back of my

observed in photos that these exposed

Any unwanted blemishes will be noticeable

hobby knife and a straight edge. I also

fenders were often bent while in action.

onthe painted model. After removing the

used the back of my hobby knife to scribe

Details such as bent fenders will add an

fenders and other upper hull details, I

the flamecut edges as seen in photo ten. I

incredible amount of life to any model.

assembled the lower and upper hull parts.

re-scribed the flamecut edges on the

Eduard manufactures a set of brass

The large unwanted horizontal gap was

upper hull to make them more random

replacement fenders for the Tamiya KV

then filled with putty. Photo nine shows the

and accurate. Compare the upper front

Tanks. The width of the Eduard fenders

hull assembled, cleaned and ready for the

hull of your Tamiya model with photo ten to

appears to be accurate when compared to

brass fenders. It is important to note that

better understand the detail added in this

1/35 scale drawings I have of early KV

most putties will continue to shrink long

step. After scribing the edges, I added

tanks.

after they are solid enough to be sanded. I

welds using stretched sprue softened with

Soldering is a trickier alternative to

applied, and sanded smooth, three coats

liquid cement. The liquid cement also

superglue

of putty over the horizontal seams where

softened and reduced the sharp edges on

when assembling brass

the two sections of the hull connected

the added flame-cut edges, resulting in a

components.Although difficult, soldering

before the body was ready for the brass

more realistic appearance. View photos of

has some very important advantages.

fenders.

the completed model for a better idea of

Soldering allows you to obtain cleaner,

the final result of these steps.

longer lasting, stronger bonds on large brass components. The stronger bond will

Photo 10

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Another slight problem on the Tamiya kit is

Soldering the Brass Fenders

allow you apply battle damage without

the lack of weld detail and flame-cut

The fenders on the KV tanks were

them falling apart. and the soldered parts

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will also bend appropriately, yielding very

the delicate brass parts.

paintbrush.

realistic results. Convincing battle damage

Photos 11 to 12

Next, dip the soldering wire into the liquid

will certainly enhance a well painted and

I started cutting the PE parts away from

flux as seen in photo 14. Lightly touch the

weathered model.An item you will want to

the fret on the rigid surface of the steel

hot soldering iron with the solder wire as

have when soldering photo-etch brass

plate using my hobby knife as shown in

shown in photo 15. If the iron is hot enough

parts is a piece of 11 gauge

photo 11. For some reason, there is a grey

and clean, a small amount of solder should

(approximately) stainless steel. My piece is

film on the Eduard PE frets. This film does

melt onto the iron as shown. With the

roughly 24" long by 18" wide. I acquired my

not appear to affect the bond when

brass pieces to be assembled firmly held

piece of stainless steel from a local metal

soldering the small PE parts. I did however,

together, tap the iron onto the area of the

shop.You will not be able to firmly solder

have more of a difficult time assembling

parts where you added the liquid flux and if

your parts to the hard flat surface of the

the larger parts. As a result I chose to

the iron is hot enough, the solder should

stainless steel and the stainless steel will

carefully clean the PE fret using a fine sand

quickly flow between the two pieces

give you a rigid surface on which to cut

paper before removing any more of the

resulting in a firm bond. It is very important

your delicate brass parts away from the

parts which improved the soldering

that you use a rigid

fret using a hobby knife. Using the hobby

qualities of the PE parts.

straightedge to help you align the two large fender halves as seen in photo 16. If

knife with the steel will allow you to obtain a nice flush

Photos 13 to 16

these parts are not properly aligned, you

cut close to the brass part when removing

Start the Soldering process by brushing

will not be able to attach the fender

it from the fret, resulting in minimal

some liquid flux onto the area (or joint) of

assemblies properly to the sides of the

cleaning up that could potentially damage

the parts to be soldered using an old

hull. Sometimes it is easier to form the

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19

20

21

22

23

24

25

26

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assembled model.

parts before you solder them, or you might

Tanks. Some of the fender supports on the

find it simpler to solder the parts first.

later KV Tanks were solid (as seen on the

These decisions will differ between

type-C) while others such as the ones seen

Photos 19 through 24

projects. For more on soldering view my

in photo 17 were not. Eduard provides you

Pieces of angle were bolted under the

article "Under New Management" that

with the solid and hollow fender supports

fenders on the KV Tanks. These pieces of

appeared in Issue 16 of AFV Modeller.

in set no. 35 419 to make the arrangement

angle were then welded to the hull

seen on the later KV tanks. Luckily,

attaching the fenders to the tank. For ease

Photos 17 through 19

between both sets there are enough of the

of assembly it is very important that the

I used two Eduard PE sets designed for the

hollow supports to complete both fender

pieces of angle are soldered precisely in

Tamiya KV kits to help me assemble this

assemblies representing an early KV

place on the ends of the fenders. Use a flat

model. One of the PE sets (set no. 35 419)

model. After forming the supports I

surface and something to hold the angles

contains a variety of parts to detail the hull

carefully soldered them to the fenders.

square while soldering them as shown in

as well as various parts of the fenders. The

Make sure the

photo 20. Solder the angles to the fenders

second set (set no. 35 416) contains the

supports are aligned properly to the edges

on both the inside and outside to ensure a

45 44 parts needed to completely replace

of the fender before soldering them. If the

strong bond. The stiffeners on the upper

the fenders. Because the Eduard set no.35

supports are not assembled properly, you

outer sides of the

419 contains only some parts to detail the

will have unrealistic gaps between the

fenders are in two parts. Although time

fenders, you will have spare pieces when

supports and hull sides. The stiffeners

consuming, these parts are easy to hold in

combining it with set no. 35416. I am

were also soldered under the fenders at

place with tweezers while you solder them

bringing these spare parts to your attention

this time. I was impressed that Eduard

as shown in photos 22, 23 and 24.

because there is a difference between the

provided these parts despite the fact that

Photo 25

fender supports on the early and later KV

they will be almost unnoticeable on the

With the fenders firmly soldered I carefully

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added some subtle battle damage. I tightly

Production conversion kit is cast hollow

Photos 28 to 29

clamped the inner fender supports into my

with a round section on its base. This

The turret roof also has an area of resin at

Etch-Mate. You will need a strong bond

circular section is needed to allow the resin

its

during this step to hold the stresses

to flow into the mold and needs to be

front that needs to be cleaned up. This is a

caused by the bends representing battle

removed. It is important that this excess

bit tricky to remove, so I sanded as much

damage. I added the battle damage to the

resin be sanded away in a manner that

of the unwanted resin as I could away from

fenders with the aid of pliers. You will

allows the cleaned turret to sit flat on the

the part. A file was used to make a slot at

notice that the rest of the firmly soldered

hull. I sanded away the unwanted resin

the front of the roof to allow it to sit

parts will bend together resulting in

using circular motions (photo 26). Wet the

properly on top of the turret. The cleaned

convincing battle damage.

sandpaper to reduce the unhealthy dust

turret roof is designed to snap into place. A

created by the process. After carefully

little work might be needed to properly get

The MIG Productions KV M39 Resin Conversion Set

sanding the resin away evenly to the

the roof located on top of the turret.

Now that the hull was back-dated and the

push out the remaining plug from the

Photos 30 to 31

fenders attached, I could start adding the

inside. Use this same sanding method to

The MIG Productions KV conversion comes

resin MIG Productions parts and other final

remove the excess resin from the other

with four hatches. One hatch for the top of

details.

larger details such as the rectangular tool

the turret, another for the driver and two

boxes.

more to access the transmission on the

bottom of the turret, you should be able to

Photos 26 to 27

rear of the hull. All of the hatches contain

The resin turret included in the MIG

inner detailing to give the modeler the

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35

36

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option to display them open. If you wish to

Photos 32 to 34

Photos 35 to 37

display the transmission hatches closed,

It is easier to remove unwanted flash from

The injection-molded turnbuckles used for

you will simply need to sand away the

the smaller resin parts before cutting them

securing the cables supplied with the

inner details as seen in photo no.30. There

away from the pouring blocks. As

Tamiya kit are in my opinion undesirable

are thin (almost unnoticeable) circular

mentioned at the beginning of this article,

and should be replaced. The hooks on the

parts around the drivers hatch and rear

the Tamiya hull represents a 1942 KV-1C.

new turnbuckles were formed from brass

hull covers on the early KV tanks. I

Bolts must be added to properly backdate

rod using a few sets of pliers purchased at

constructed these parts using sheet plastic

the model to the 1939 variant. These were

a jeweler’s supply store. The flat pliers in

and compasses purchased at an art

added using a hexagon punch and die set.

photo 36 were used to help me obtain a

supply store. The opening for the drivers

Note the added styrene bolts in photo 34. I

smaller diameter than I could get using the

hatch is located too far back on the upper

would recommend a hexagon punch-and-

circular pliers. Pieces of Evergreen rod

hull. I moved this opening forward by

die set if you like to model Soviet armor.

were also used to fabricate the bodies of

elongating it with a Dremel tool. This

You should be able to obtain directions on

the turnbuckles.

oblong hole was corrected once the

purchasing a punch-and-die set in the

circular styrene piece was glued in place.

discussion forums on any of the large

The Road Wheels

modeling websites.

The final details used were replacements for the road-wheels provided with the 47

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Tamiya kit. After placing some photos of the

Photos 38 to 41

running gear to the hull until the model

assembled model on Missing-lynx.com, a

I had to do some re-engineering to the

was painted. I find it easier to paint and

few viewers informed me that the

Hussar Productions wheels in order to

weather the running gear as well as under

roadwheels included with the Tamiya KV

properly attach them to the Tamiya KV

the hull if these parts are separate.

models appear incorrect. I have read that

model. It is very important that the

the diameter of the wheels are accurate but

roadwheels be properly attached to the

The Assembled Model

never paid much attention to their detail.

hull in relation to the drive and idler wheels

The Tamiya kit, after-market items, and the

After a few emails it was recommended

allowing the assembled track to sit

steps needed to construct a model of a

that I use some resin replacements from

straight. The model used in the next 4

KV- 1 Model 1940 containing a rounded

Hussar Productions. Hussar Productions

photos is a spare Tamiya KV kit I had on-

turret are straight forward. The

manufactures at least four sets of resin

hand. After dry-fitting (attaching the wheels

most time consuming part of

replacement road-wheels for the Tamiya

without glue) the wheels I discovered that

the operation was

and Eastern Express KV models. Three of

they were sitting out too far from the

assembling and soldering of

the sets are of the early type wheels with

model’s hull. I bored out the rear of each

the brass fenders. While

the internal shock absorbers while the

of the wheel sets using a drill. I cut the

looking at the photos of the

fourth set is one of the all steel types used

small diameter parts of the torsion bars

painted model, one can see

on the later KV tanks such as the 1S. I used

away as shown in photo no. 40. By

the authentic appearance

Hussar Productions set no. 35003 on this

widening the holes in the back of each set

that the subtly damaged

model. I have also seen early KV tanks with

of wheels with the drill, I was able to place

brass fenders add. Carefully

the rounded turret containing the type of

them snug on the modified torsion bars as

painting and weathering the

wheels duplicated in set no.35003.

shown. I did not permanently attach the

fenders along with the rest of

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the model will also greatly enhance the

over the past 12 years. During my early

my subjects such as the KV-1 m40 in this

model’s appearance. The workable metal

years, I constructed many models of the

article. www.migproductions.com

Friulmodel track links are another very

KV tanks using all three of the Tamiya kits.

important detail. The rubber band style

During those early years I would not have

Vallejo Acrylics for the paints.

track included with the Tamiya KV kits do

imagined myself having the opportunity to

www.acrylicosvallejo.com

not help to capture the look of this

write an article about one of these models,

imposing tank. The Friulmodel track can be

let alone designing a conversion set for

Joaquin Garcia at www.enjoy-models.com

a bit expensive but are easy to assemble,

them. I am very happy to have once again

for providing me the web-space to post

fairly accurate and result in an incredibly

been able to construct a KV using one of

this model online allowing me to receive

realistic sag between the return rollers. The

the classic Tamiya kits. This project bought

the important feedback, aiding me with

metal tow cable is something that I have

me back to my younger days when life

themodels construction.

had in my spare-parts box for years.

was a little simpler. I hope that this article

Again, this cable is a vast improvement

encourages you to construct an early

References

over the straight plastic cables provided

variant of this significant Russian Tank.

• Zaloga, S. J., Kinnear, J., Aksenov, A. &

with the Tamiya kit. I do not even know

Koshchavtsev, A (1997). Stalin’s Heavy

who manufactured this metal cable. I want

I Would Like to Thank: Michael

Tanks 1941-1945, The KV and IS Heavy

to guess Hudson & Allen Studio, but am

Szapowalow at AirConnection for his

Tanks. Hong Kong: Concord Publications

not sure. Please make note of the leadfoil

recommendations and donating the

Co.

brackets that needed to be added to the

Hussar Productions road wheels for this

• Zaloga, S. J. Kinnear, J., & Sarson P.

insides of the fenders on the upper front

article. www.airconnection.on.ca

(1995). KV-1 & 2 Heavy Tanks 1941-45.

part of the hull. The figure used in these

Jon Tamkin and Michael Rinaldi at Mission

Great Britain: Osprey Publications.

photos is from a Russian company called

Models for the providing me with the Etch-

• Fleischer, W. (1999). Russian Tanks and

"Tank". Last, but not least, is the nice little

Mate and Multi-Tool tools to form and

Armored Vehicles 1917-1945. USA:

Modeling Artisan Mori MG enclosure

assemble the photo-etched brass parts for

Schiffer Publishing Ltd.

located at the hull front.

my articles. www.missionmodels.com

• Zaloga, S. J. (2005, February). [Interview via E-mail]

Conclusion Constructing and writing this article has been a very special experience for me. I have now been modeling frequently for

MIG Productions for the Pigments and other

• The Russian Battlefield: www.battlefield.ru/index.html

finishing supplies used to paint and weather

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