Military Illustrated Modeller - Issue 081 (2018-01)

modeller Y N O P . s EAGLE v 48 Messerschmitt 1: a iy m Ta ew N e th g Buildin -51D Mustang P 2 3 1: l el ev R & -6 G Bf 109

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Eduard 1:32 P-40N Warhawk • Airbrush Cleaners Tech Guide • Kinetic 1:48 T-Harrier • Wingnut Wings 1:32 Jeannin Stahltaube • and more…

£6.75 - January ‘18 (issue 081)

Aircraft edition

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Contents

modeller military illustrated

ISSUE No.081 January 2018

4

NEWS

6

REFERENCE

8

PREVIEW

What’s happening in modelling and aviation

10

Messerschmitt Bf 109 G-6 Close-Up by Brett Green

Kinetic 1:48 T-Harrier

10 INGENIOUS EAGLE

Tamiya’s 1:48 Messerschmitt Bf 109 G-6 by Brett Green

28 PREVIEW

Revell 1:32 Focke –Wulf Fw 190 A-8

30 NEW GUINEA KITTY

James Hatch builds Eduard’s 1:32 Limited Edition P-40N Warhawk

44 POCKET MONEY PONY Revell’s 1:32 P-51D Mustang by Brett Green

62 TECH GUIDE

Airbrush Thinners by John Miller

65 NEXT ISSUES

What’s coming up in the next issues of Military Illustrated Modeller

66 TAILPIECE

Wingnut Wings’ brand new 1:32 scale Jeannin Stahltaube

30

6

44

Aircraft Edition

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News

VINTAGE FIGHTER SERIES 1:24 SCALE P-47M THUNDERBOLT Here is the new Vintage Fighter Series P-47M Thunderbolt. You may order this model right now for £89.99 plus postage by emailing Vintage Fighter Series directly on [email protected] The cockpit shot shows the paper seatbelts that are included in the ‘Special Edition’ kit that has the distinguished autograph from the pilot Russell S.Kyler – credited with shooting down an Me 262. Only 500 of these will be available. There are three marking options: • HV-J – Russ Kyler’s, • UN-Z – George Bostwick’s, and • Michael (Teddy) Jackson’s – LM-J. So if anyone would love that special and unique present, how about a 1:24 scale P-47M? The box cover is also a poster that can be hung on your door or wall.

Thanks to Vintage Fighter Series for the information and images. Email: [email protected]

A modellers guide to building WWI airplanes

THE SALE OF HARDER & STEENBECK Harder & Steenbeck has sent the following Press Release about the sale of the company: ‘During the last 21 years, Jens Matthiessen has built a small German company into the world leader in airbrush technology and performance that Harder & Steenbeck is today. Now, with his desire to move into the next stage of his life, Mr. Matthiessen has found the ideal partner who truly understands the philosophy of excellence, and serving the creativity of the customer. In January 2017, ANEST IWATA purchased the Harder & Steenbeck company. Both have recently celebrated their 90-year anniversaries, and each has a deep respect and understanding of the other's heritage.

4

STRINGBAG!

Please be assured that nothing changes for you as our customer. H&S airbrushes will continue to be manufactured at our headquarters in Norderstedt, Germany. Our company is proud to call our products "Made in Germany" and will continue to develop Harder & Steenbeck products to our high-quality standards even further. We invite you to enjoy the continuing growth and innovations with us that will result from this new partnership, as we remain committed to you, our loyal customer and dealer network, to the Harder & Steenbeck brand, and your success with it. “I am confident,” Mr Matthiessen says, “that I have made the right decision in choosing ANEST IWATA to continue my life’s work - my passion - while remaining true to the Harder & Steenbeck way. I would like to extend my heartfelt thanks for all of you who have contributed significantly on this remarkable journey, and wish you continued success in this new and exciting phase with Harder & Steenbeck.” Masato Suzuki & Jens Matthiessen’

After two long years of building and writing the moment we all have been waiting for has arrived: the release of “Stringbag! A modellers guide to building WWI airplanes” will take place on October 21st during Scale Model Challenge 2017 in Veldhoven, The Netherlands. This book focuses on WWI Aircraft exclusively with a strong relation to Wingnut Wings models. Jeroen Veen and Flip Hendrickx have a deep passion for these models and wanted to share their experience, hoping to inspire in a way modellers that feel the same about this era in history. This book is filled to the brim with thoughts, ideas and techniques to get the best results from WWI airplane kits. All specific techniques to build these kits are included and illustrated in the book, and Jeroen and Flip bring two distinct and individual approaches to modelling these fascinating aircraft. “Stringbag! A modellers guide to building WWI airplanes” contains the following chapters: Full build articles: • Hansa-Brandenburg W.29 • DH.9A Ninak • AEG G.IV (Late) • Hannover CI.II • Roland D.VIa • Morane-Saulnier type N Special theme articles: • Painting wood • Painting leather • Painting Castor oil staining • Carving props • Rigging • Creating a small vignette Price: £25.00. AVAILABLE NOW from Inside the Armour Publications www.insidethearmour.com and Wingnut Wings’ website www.wingnutwings.com

Military Illustrated Modeller - November 2017

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REFERENCE Messerschmitt Bf 109 G-6 Close-Up

MESSERSCHMITT BF 109 G-6

The Editor takes a close look at the Messerschmitt Bf 109 G-6 at the Australian War Memorial in Canberra

CLOSE-UP

T

he Australian War Memorial in Canberra is fortunate to have a Messerschmitt Bf 109 G-6 in entirely original condition. This aircraft was captured shortly after it as rebuilt at Ludwig Hansen & Co Flugzeug-RepaturWerk in Muenster in December 1944, and features many interesting configurations and late-war camouflage characteristics. The airframe was extensively photographed between 1999 and 2002, before it was reassembled and put on display in the main section of the Australian War Memorial. Here we have access to areas generally not visible on museum or even operational aircraft, including the fuselage interior, radio compartment, empennage, wheel wells and more. Let’s take a closer look at Messerschmitt Bf 109 G-6, Werknummer 163824. •

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The airframe under restoration in 1999. Red numbers may be glimpsed on the engine block.

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The vertical panel lines are visible, but the remainder of the fuselage is quite smooth.

A nice close view of the supercharger intake and the lower part of the cowl bulge. Note the prominent vertical rubber seal between the engine cowling and the main section of the fuselage.

The tail and empennage of the AWM’s Gustav. The whitewall tail wheel is of interest. This was an anti-static measure.

A view of the top of the starboard wing.

A rare opportunity to view the inside of a Bf 109 G-6 wheel well. The canvas cover is not present here. Aircraft Edition

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KIT PREVIEW Kinetic Model Kits 1:48 T-Harrier: Harrier T.2/T.2A/T.2N/T.3/T.4N/T.8 Two Seater Trainer • Item No. K48040

The two-seater Harrier provides an all-new fuselage.

T-HARRIER

The new wing.

The decals offer many options in a good variety of finishes.

Kinetic has extended its 1:48 scale Harrier family to include the two-seat trainer – the first time as a plastic kit. The Editor takes a look.

K

inetic released their excellent 1:48 scale Sea Harrier FA2 in September 2014, followed by an equally good Sea Harrier FRS.1 in October 2015. With the schedule taking a break in 2016, Kinetic has now followed up with the two-seater Harrier trainer. This is a welcome variation as it is the first Harrier two-seater available as a 1/48 scale injection moulded kit, and also the first RAF Harrier from Kinetic. This new kit from Kinetic comprises around 300 parts in light grey plastic, 20 parts in clear and a photo-etched fret. Markings for all Royal Navy and Indian Navy Sea Harrier FRS.1s are included. Compared to the previous Kinetic Sea Harriers, this kit features a brand new fuselage, fin and detail sprues. The wing appears to be new too, or at least had the moulds cleaned up, featuring sharper recessed detail and less flash. A number of the generic sprues are shared with the earlier release. The fuselage is presented as two main halves plus a separate nose cone. This is a new fuselage and dedicated to the two-seater versions. The kit also includes the tall fin, the RWR fin and the original fin. The new wing appears to have even finer and sharper recessed panel lines, and smoother surface. The old wing is included too, so make sure you use the right one! In common with the Sea Harrier FA2, surface detail looks very nice, with recessed panel lines, vents and rivets over the airframe. Moulding quality is high, with minimal ejector pin circles, seam lines or sink marks. There is only a little fine flash to clean up here and there. Some of the moulding is really clever too, notably the one-piece nozzles. All four nozzles are connected by a rotating mechanism. The new two-seat cockpit detail is nice straight from the box, with raised detail on the side consoles and instrument panels; and excellent

moulding on the sides of the ejector seat. Photoetched harness straps are also included - a first for Kinetic's Harrier family. The canopy is split into windscreen and opening section. The latter features the prominent detonation chords moulded into the top. The stressed metal effect on the nozzle blast shields looks great. Optional parts are provided for open or closed auxiliary blow in doors; open or closed air brakes; and the control surfaces and flaps are all offered as separate parts, allowing them to be posed to taste. Landing gear doors may be fixed open or closed too. The newly designed photo-etched fret provides additional detail parts including scale thickness wing fences and two full sets of harness straps. Of the 300-odd grey plastic parts, 140 are dedicated to ordnance. There appear to be bombs and rocket pods that might relate to a possible RAF Harrier release in the future. Relevant ordnance for the two-seater Harrier are the 100 Gallon and 190 Gallon fuel tanks and the Gun Pod, so you'll have plenty of weapons to add the spares box! Decals are designed by Crossdelta and luxuriously printed by Cartograf. The model may be finished in a good selection of operational schemes. This is another really nice modern subject from Kinetic, and the first time that we can build a twoseater Harrier straight from the box in this scale. Kinetic's Harriers are well detailed, offer many useful options and alternative position parts, and provide a wealth of ordnance. Engineering appears straightforward and it should not be a difficult build. At less that USD$40.00, it is a bargain too! •

Detail parts are perfectly moulded.

The two-seater cockpit tub.

The canopies may be posed open.

Photo-etched parts are included.

Thanks to Lucky Model for the sample www.luckymodel.com Black, Grey or Camo? The choice is yours!

8

Military Illustrated Modeller - January 2018

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FEATURE ARTICLE Tamiya 1:48 Messerschmitt Bf 109 G-6 • Kit No. 61117

INGENIOUS E Brett Green describes the contents, construction, painting and weathering of Tamiya’s brand new 1:48 scale Augsburg Eagle – the Messerschmitt Bf 109 G-6.

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S EAGLE

T

he Messerchmitt Bf 109 F represented a major transformation compared to the squaredoff lines of the Emil. This sleek hunter now featured a new large aerodynamic spinner, streamlined cowling and rounded wingtips. The installation of the Daimler-Benz DB 605 A engine in the Messerschmitt Bf 109 G increased power, but an upgrade in armament, armour and options resulted in a corresponding increase in weight. The once nimble fighter was becoming overloaded as more missions were demanded of it. Even so, the Gustav remained the workhorse of the Luftwaffe, with more than 12,000 of the G-6 variant alone being produced. The Messerschmitt Bf 109 G-6 was immediately recognisable thanks to the two prominent bulges on the engine cowling. These were required to clear the ammunition feeds of the larger 13mm MG 131 machine guns with 300 rounds per gun. During the course of production, a number of significant changes and improvements were made to the Bf 109 G-6. These included the fitting of a simplified clear-vision canopy, pilot’s head armour from armoured glass to improve rear vision, a new tall tail fitted with several styles of rudder, and more. Armament could vary widely too, with fighter-bomber versions, “gunboats” equipped with 20mm cannon gondolas under each wing and photo-reconnaissance aircraft just to name a few.

ANOTHER GUSTAV?

The Messerschmitt Bf 109 must be one of the most produced subjects in the history of scale modelling, and the G-6 is certainly the best represented variant. Two great 1:48 scale Bf 109 G-6 have been released in recent years from Eduard and Zvezda, so do we really need another Gustav on the hobby shop shelves? Let's find out.

Aircraft Edition

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28/11/2017 11:27

FEATURE ARTICLE Tamiya 1:48 Messerschmitt Bf 109 G-6 • Kit No. 61117

What’s In The Box? Tamiya's brand new 1:48 scale Messerschmitt Bf 109 G-6 best represents an early to mid production aircraft from the Messerschmitt Regensburg factory. The model features the early framed canopy, the short tail and the standard stowage compartment behind the pilot's head. Tamiya's kit may be built as a Trop version or a gondola-equipped gunboat straight from the box too. The kit comprises 187 parts in grey coloured plastic, eight parts in clear, self-adhesive canopy masks, polythene caps (two sizes), metal washers and magnets plus markings for three aircraft. There are some hints about future releases of earlier and later variants moulded onto these sprues, including a Morane mast and filler points on the fuselage for MW50 (later versions) and the Bf 109 F. The instructions clearly advise which recessed hatches should be filled in. The breakdown of the fuselage means that the main fuselage halves could be used for any version of the Bf 109 from the F-2 to the G-10. Options are many and varied. They include two styles of drop tanks, Trop filter and umbrella pips; cannon gondolas (gondolae??); short or long aerail masts, DF loop, metal or Galland Panzer pilot's head armour and a Morane mast with three styles of base. Some of these are marked as not for use in this boxing, but I'm sure that many will find a use for them! Parts breakdown is far from conventional. The main fuselage halves comprise the mid and rear sections, with the nose and the panels beneath the windscreen being presented as separate parts. The main fuselage halves have a stout mount for the engine block moulded in place. The two raised pips for the tropical umbrella on the port fuselage side are also moulded in place (you'll need to carve/sand these off if you are building a non-Trop variant). Two complete sets of engine cowlings are included - one for the closed option and one open. These are locked into place using a combination of thin metal washers, tiny magnets and polythene caps. The engine is broken down into a central engine block that is permanently attached to the fuselage plus separate sub-assemblies for the top of the engine, including the engine mounts, glycol tanks and cowl guns; and the bottom of the engine. These top and bottom engine sub-assemblies are fitted only when the cowls are displayed open. Engine detail is good straight from the box, and there is no compromise in size or accuracy thanks to Tamiya's clever parts breakdown. It's a bit difficult to describe in words, but it makes perfect sense when you are building the model! There is nothing preventing the modeller for gluing the cowls in place either open or closed, but the press-fit and magnet snap-fit of the cowls is so extraordinarily good that you honestly don't need cement. I have seen it suggested that there is something wrong with the spacing of the cowl guns, but I have looked at a few photos of wartime aircraft and I think it is fine. The spacing looks odd on the sprue without the context of the bulges and the cowl sides, but it all looks proportionally correct on the built-up model (wartime reference photo below). Cockpit detail is good. Some sidewall detail is moulded directly onto the fuselage sidewalls. There are a few alarming ejector pin circles here, but some are actually locating positions and they are all covered up when the cockpit parts are glued in place. The instrument panel is supplied in two plastic pieces with decals for the dials. These look great

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Military Illustrated Modeller - January 2018

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in place - just make sure you line up the instrument decals with the raised plastic bezels. Decals are also offered for the harness straps. These never really look right to me, so I replaced these with an Eduard STEEL harness - thin metal straps that are a nice compromise between authenticity and ease of use. Tamiya also includes a nicely crafted seated pilot figure. He will help you avoid the problem of those pesky decal harness straps! The windscreen is moulded with a small section of the fuselage and features a large mounting point for gluing to the gun cowl panels. Two styles of windscreen are offered. The main section of the canopy is moulded with two locating pins for a default "open" position. If you want to display the canopy closed, just slice off the pins. The wings comprise a full span lower section and separate upper halves with the wheel bulge accurately recessed into the ceiling. The main wheel bays represent zippered canvas covers at the rear and sides. Outboard flaps, radiator flaps and the ailerons are all separate parts and may be posed to taste. The radiator flaps are cleverly designed with two sets of tabs moulded in place. One set of tabs is designed to be sliced off depending on whether the flaps are raised or dropped. The outboard flaps have a similar design feature. Leading edge slats are separate parts that may be posed open or closed. Wing tips are separate parts too. The horizontal tail planes are moulded as a single part, including the elevators. The fin is located via a long stout tab and pin, and the rudder is a separate part - also located with a positive tab. Undercarriage legs are also unique. They are moulded with a long tab making an approximate "L" shape with the leg. This is glued into a recess in the lower wing, resulting in a robust join with perfect rake and splay. The recess is then covered by the lower wing centre panel, which doubles as a mount for the ETC rack. Of course, this means that you will have to paint the model before fitting the undercarriage legs, but fit is so good that this will not be a problem. The 300 litre drop tank offers alternative lower halves. It is also a removable press-fit thanks to the use of a polythene cap. Multimedia parts round out the package - magnets, metal washers and two sizes of polythene caps. Self adhesive masks are provided for the canopy. As is usual with Tamiya masks, the outlines are printed onto the Kabuki-tape masks and the modeller is required to cut out the shapes. I used a sharp hobby knife on mine and had no problems at all.

Tamiya’s 1:48 scale Messerschmitt Bf 109 G-6 box art. The port fuselage half is moulded with a stout mount for the engine.

Some cockpit sidewall detail is moulded onto the inside of the fuselage halves.

Additional filler ports and hatches suggest that we will be seeing more Bf 109 variants from Tamiya in the future.

The horizontal tail planes are moulded as a full span part, including the elevators.

The undercarriage legs feature a large locating peg.

Two styles of windscreen are included.

Multimedia parts include polythene caps, metal washers and magnets.

MARKINGS

Markings are supplied for three early to midproduction Messerschmitt Bf 109 G-6s: A second decal sheet includes comprehensive stencil markings. Note that, due to the two separate cowl configurations, Tamiya has supplied two sets of nose markings where appropriate. You'll need to keep this in mind when choosing after market decals too. Printing, colours and registration is perfect on my sample.

You’ll need to cut around the outlines of the self-adhesive masking sheet.

A nicely sculpted pilot is included.

The first of the two decal sheets offer national markings and unique markings. The smaller sheet includes more stencils plus nose markings, instrument decals and a set of harness straps.

28/11/2017 11:27

Cockpit and Main Fuselage Tamiya’s cockpit is very well detailed, but before we start working on the front office we have a little bit of scraping, filling and sanding of the fuselage halves.

STEP BY STEP

I was lucky enough to receive an early test shot of Tamiya’s 1:48 scale Messerschmitt Bf 109 G-6 prior to the release date. The model was built straight from the box. The only deviations were the use of Eduard STEEL harness straps and after-market decals from EagleCals. I also replaced the plastic DF loop with a staple from a plastic bag, but I suppose that is technically from the box too! The following captioned photos walk through the assembly of the model step-by-step.

I sometimes use a mix of super glue and talcum powder to fill unwanted panel lines or filler ports. Mixed in the correct proportions, this blend is fast setting, easy to sand and looks like plastic when it is sanded flush.

The mix was quickly applied with the tip of a toothpick. You don’t have long to work with the super glue blend.

The filler has been sanded flat, eliminating the three redundant filler ports.

Starboard sidewall detail parts.

These are the parts for the main cockpit tub.

The cockpit tub in its sub-assemblies.

Throttle quadrant and the oxygen regulator have been attached to the fuselage sidewalls.

All the parts that were to be painted RLM 66 Black Grey were tacked to a small box to ease handling. I used Tamiya XF-24 Dark Grey as the base colour. Aircraft Edition

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FEATURE ARTICLE Tamiya 1:48 Messerschmitt Bf 109 G-6 • Kit No. 61117

The dark grey base coat was brushed with a mix of water, Future floor polish and black. This dark wash settles against the edges of raised details and in natural shadow areas.

The cockpit sidewalls with details picked out using Vallejo acrylic paints and a fine brush. The flat coat has been applied here too.

The starboard sidewall with the switch panel and fuel line glued in place.

I didn’t have the kit’s decal sheet at this stage, so I sourced harness straps from Eduard’s STEEL range – Item No. 49 095.

The Eduard STEEL harness straps glued in place. Reference markings were painted onto the trim wheels.

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The fuselage halves have been glued together. We are just about ready to fit the cockpit and the pilot’s stowage hatch.

The cockpit tub is inserted through the bottom of the fuselage.

The tub is pressed into place then secured with glue.

This is what it should look like from below.

Fit is excellent. Aircraft Edition

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FEATURE ARTICLE Tamiya 1:48 Messerschmitt Bf 109 G-6 • Kit No. 61117

Engine, Cowls and Airframe The engine and cowl arrangement is really the heart of Tamiya’s 1:48 scale Messerschmitt Bf 109 G-6. The ingenious design permits the engine cowlings to be closed or open to display the engine. This is achieved using different parts, and these parts may be swapped out to change the configuration.

Tail plane parts ready for assembly.

The fin features a very large locating tab plus a pin.

The tail pieces in place.

The parts for the basic engine block, including the one-piece-per-side exhaust stacks.

Basic engine block parts have now been painted. The base colour is Tamiya X-18 Semi-Gloss Black, which I have always found to be very glossy!

The areas of the stout engine mount that would be exposed were painted with Tamiya X-18 Semi-Gloss Black too.

Engine detail looks very basic at this stage, but never fear!

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The basic engine block viewed from below. Note that the exhaust stacks are not hollowed out.

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The mount ready for the engine block to be fitted.

The basic engine block in place.

The bottom of the engine is held in place with a small circular magnet, which may be seen in this photo.

The basic engine block is complete.

The forward nose ring is also held in place with a magnet.

Watch out for some of these raised sprue attachments on this mating surfaces of a few major parts. This is on the leading edge of the wing. A few minutes cleaning up with a new hobby blade will do the trick.

The wing components ready to be assembled. I masked and sprayed the centre panel black.

A few inspection ports need to be filled on the bottom of the wings. I used the same combination of super glue and talcum powder that I previously employed on the fuselage.

If you are fitting the pods for the gunboat version, don’t forget to drill out the locating holes before you assemble the wing.

Another clever design element are alternative mounting arms for the upper radiator flaps. These are the parts for the lowered flaps. They are sturdy and guarantee that the flaps will be dropped to the correct degree.

Aircraft Edition

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FEATURE ARTICLE Tamiya 1:48 Messerschmitt Bf 109 G-6 • Kit No. 61117

Wing tips and ailerons are ready to be fitted here.

If the flaps are in the lowered position, you’ll cut off the centre tab. If they are closed, you’ll need to cut off the two outer tabs. Easy!

Outboard flaps and leading edge slats.

The lower radiator flaps are secured using tabs moulded to the leading edge.

Flaps being installed.

The wing and fuselage sub-assemblies are ready to be brought together.

The full-span wing viewed from below.

The fit between the wing and fuselage is perfect above…

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…and below.

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I started working on the open cowl optional parts. Here is the open upper cowl with its separate gun trough inserts.

Engine, mount and cowl gun sub-assemblies, partially weathered.

The upper engine, gun deck and mounts is a single sub-assembly that simply drops onto the top of the engine block – no glue, no magnets, no trouble.

The lower cowl has been sprayed yellow.

Cowl gun and engine mount parts. Where possible, I left parts on the sprues while painting them.

These parts are destined for the bottom of the engine.

The raised detail on inside of the engine cowlings takes a dark oil wash particularly well.

The lower engine and coal parts await final assembly.

Lower cowl and bottom engine sub-assemblies have been glued together using the large locating tabs.

The inside of the lower engine is fitted with a metal washer that will snap into place on the magnet.

The upper cowl is pressed into place over a polythene cap while the lower engine and nose ring are held securely with the magnets and metal washers.

Aircraft Edition

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FEATURE ARTICLE Tamiya 1:48 Messerschmitt Bf 109 G-6 • Kit No. 61117

The gun troughs look good once the cowling sides and bulges have been added. These are the closed upper cowl parts.

Taking shape. The gun trough panel looks a bit strange by itself.

The lower cowl parts for the closed option.

Closed upper and lower cowls ready for paint.

The kit decals turned up just in time for me to use them before final weathering was applied. The engine received awash of MIG Productions Earth Wash.

The engine number decals lend real character to the engine compartment.

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Painting and Markings The model was painted with the closed cowl parts in place. These very effectively masked off the engine and other nose interior parts. It also ensured that the camouflage was consistent across the removable cowl parts and the main fuselage. The lower centre wing panel incorporating the ETC rack was not glued in place, but temporarily attached with BluTack during the painting process. Tamiya’s self-adhesive masks were applied to the canopy, while the cockpit and wheel wells were masked off with Tamiya tape and tissue paper. The canopy frames were painted sprayed with Tamiya XF-63 German Grey and then the rear fuselage was sprayed with Tamiya White Primer. When this was dry, the white rudder was masked with Tamiya tape. The red fuselage band was now sprayed over the white primer using Gunze’s Mr Color lacquer, 79 Shine Red for the first time. This sprayed well but in retrospect may be just slightly bright. I’ll add a tiny drop of black in the airbrush paint cup next time. After masking the fuselage band, the model was treated to an overall coat of Tamiya AS-5 Light Blue straight from the spray can. The hardwearing lacquer finish is ideal as an overall primer, and also doubles as the base coat of RLM 76 Light Blue. Gunze-Sangyo acrylic H69 for RLM 75 Grey Violet was employed for the base upper surface camouflage colour. The RLM 75 was then thinned heavily with isopropylene alcohol and mixed with a few drops of Gunze acrylic H417 RLM 76 Light Blue. This paler RLM 75 mix was sprayed in sparse spots and mottles along the fuselage sides and the tail surfaces, and also as disruptive mottled patchy weathering on the previously painted grey surfaces. The upper surfaces of the wings and tailplanes as well as the fuselage spine were all sprayed RLM 75 mix. Home-made camouflage masks were made by enlarging the kit painting guide to 1:48 scale and printing them on to full sized A4 self-adhesive label paper. The masks were cut out and applied straight onto the surface of the wings and tailplanes Gunze-Sangyo acrylic H68 RLM 74 Grey Green was now sprayed in several thin coats and from directly above the masks. The masks were now removed and some time was spent redefining the camouflage demarcation by careful freehand spraying. RLM 74 Grey Green was also thinned heavily and sprayed sparsely over the previous RLM 75 Grey Violet mottling. At this stage, without the rest of the camouflage in place and prior to weathering, the mottling can look very odd. This is where you have to keep the faith and press on regardless. I oversprayed some of the areas with Gunze acrylic H417 RLM 76 Light Blue, then reapplied the mottling of RLM 74 and 75. After several rounds of respraying, I was finally more satisfied with the effect.

Canopy parts were masked with the self-adhesive masks included in the kit. The shapes were cut out with a sharp hobby blade. The section forward of the windscreen was painted on the inside too.

The drop tank, ETC rack and centre lower wing panel were prepared for assembly too. The 300 litre drop tank is held in place with a polythene cap.

Rear cowl parts were painted on the inside using Tamiya XF-1 Flat Black and Gunze-Sangyo H70 RLM 02.

The closed cowl parts were fitted to the airframe using just the caps and magnets. The cockpit was masked off between the canopy sections using Tamiya tape.

The lower centre panel was temporarily attached using Blu-Tack. The wheel wells were masked with slightly damp tissue paper.

The rear fuselage was sprayed with Tamiya White Primer straight from the can.

The red fuselage band was now also masked off.

The white rudder was masked with Tamiya tape. The red fuselage band was now sprayed over the white primer using Gunze’s Mr Color lacquer, 79 Shine Red.

The model was treated to an overall coat of Tamiya AS-5 Light Blue straight from the spray can. Aircraft Edition

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FEATURE ARTICLE Tamiya 1:48 Messerschmitt Bf 109 G-6 • Kit No. 61117

The upper surfaces of the wings and tailplanes as well as the fuselage spine were all sprayed RLM 75 Grey Violet – Gunze-Sangyo acrylic H69

A paler RLM 75 mix was sprayed in sparse spots and mottles along the fuselage sides and the tail surfaces, and also as disruptive mottled patchy weathering on the previously painted grey surfaces.

Home-made camouflage masks were made by enlarging the kit painting guide to 1:48 scale and printing them on to full sized A4 self-adhesive label paper.

Gunze-Sangyo acrylic H68 RLM 74 Grey Green was now sprayed in several thin coats and from directly above the masks.

The masks were cut out and applied straight onto the surface of the wings and tailplanes.

The EagleCals fuselage crosses were masked and sprayed with Gunze-Sangyo acrylic H68 RLM 74 Grey Green to ensure it matched the aircraft camouflage colours. After several rounds of respraying, I was finally more satisfied with the effect.

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Decals were applied over several glossy coats of Future Floor Polish.

The open cowling parts were also painted. EagleCals decals were used for the wide white spinner spiral.

A thin mix of Tamiya XF-1 Flat Black and XF-64 Red Brown was sprayed in subtle streaks and along structural features to add a little wear and tear to this hard-used airframe.

The lower surfaces during the early stages of weathering.

Aircraft Edition

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FEATURE ARTICLE Tamiya 1:48 Messerschmitt Bf 109 G-6 • Kit No. 61117

Final Assembly and Swapping the Cowls With most of the hard work out of the way – althoug it’s not really all that hard – it is time to assemble the final detail parts, then disassemble and reassemble your new Tamiya Gustav. The open canopy is held in place with two square locating posts. The fit is so good that you don’t really need to use glue, which makes it a bit easier when removing and reinstalling the windscreen and gun cowl sections. The undercarriage legs feature large and very positive locating tabs that virtually guarantee the correct splay and rake. I replaced the plastic DF loop with a staple from a Tamiya plastic bag, bent to shape around a paint brush handle.

The centre wing panel and ETC rack are removed in preparation for the installation of the main landing gear legs. Detail parts await final assembly.

The undercarriage legs feature large and very positive locating tabs that virtually guarantee the correct splay and rake. These are then covered by the centre lower wing panel.

Here are all the parts required for the closed cowling option.

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Closed cowl parts have been clicked and pressed into place. The fit is truly remarkable.

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Can you pick what is a panel line and what is a press-fit join?

Lower surfaces in the closed cowl configuration.

These are the elements for the open cowling option.

The first step is to drop the upper engine / gun deck part onto the engine block.

Engine detail is very convincing.

Ready to go!

Now the upper cowl, lower cowl and the nose ring may be added.

Looking at the bottom of the engine from below.

Pressing the propeller assembly onto its polythene cap locks the whole nose assembly in place. Aircraft Edition

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FEATURE ARTICLE Tamiya 1:48 Messerschmitt Bf 109 G-6 • Kit No. 61117

Conclusion With the excellent Eduard and Zvezda kits released quite recently, do we really need another 1:48 scale Messerschmitt Bf 109 G-6? Short answer - yes. Some of Tamiya’s options and engineering - most obviously the swappable engine and cowl parts but several other notable areas too - are simply ingenious, and there are more than enough other differences between this kit and the existing Gustavs on the market to make it unique and desirable.

If you want to display the engine straight from the box, the Tamiya kit will be the logical choice. Some will also prefer the simpler surface detail of the Tamiya kit, with its recessed panel lines and minimal riveting. But analysing the box contents only gives a sense of the nature of this model. Its real charm is the building experience. Fit is perfect, and you really start to appreciate the originality of the kit design and the excellence of its execution when you are

fitting the parts together. The model will continue to deliver entertainment even after it is built. Removing and replacing the engine cowlings is like a more grown-up version of buzzing your model around the room making aeroplane noises! Having built the recent Tamiya 1:48 Tomcat and the 1:32 F4U-1D Corsair, I wondered how Tamiya would be able to top themselves again. This is how. •

MODELSPEC Tamiya 1:48 Messerschmitt Bf 109 G-6. Kit No. 61117 Accessories Used: • Eduard Item No. 49095 - Seatbelts Luftwaffe WWII Fighters STEEL • EagleCals decal sheet no. EC#41 - “Messerschmitt Bf 109 G-6s JG 3, JG 53, JG 54”. • Staple from Tamiya bag for DF loop

Tamiya supplies supports for the upper cowls.

Tools and Modelling Products Used: • Tamiya Extra Thin Liquid Cement • Revell Contacta Cement • Selley’s Super Glue • Zip Kicker (super glue accelerator) • Olfa Knife Model K B • Tamiya Tape – 6mm, 10mm and 18mm • Blu Tack • Irwin Clamps • A4 full-page label sheet Paints and Finishing Products Used: • Tamiya Spray Cans: Fine White Primer; Grey Primer; AS-5 Light Blue • Tamiya (acrylic): X-18 Semi-Gloss Black; X-25 Clear Green; X-27 Clear Red; XF-1 Flat Black; XF-2 Flat White; XF-24 Dark Grey; XF-63 German Grey; XF-64 Red Brown. • Tamiya (enamel): X-10 Gunmetal; X-31 Titanium Gold; X-32 Titanium Silver • Gunze Sangyo (acrylic): H65 RLM 70 Black Green; H68 RLM 74 Grey Green; H69 RLM 75 Grey Violet; H70 RLM 02 Grey; H417 RLM 76 Light Blue • Tamiya Weathering Master - Weathering Pastels Parts A. • Mr Hobby Mr Color Leveling Thinner 400. • Vallejo Model Color (acrylic): 865 Oily Steel; 919 Foundation White; 70953 Flat Yellow; 70957 Flat Red; 963 Medium Blue • Vallejo Panzer Aces (acrylic): 337 Highlight Ger. (Black) • Alclad II: Flat Clear Lacquer Finish; Matt Clear Lacquer Finish • Gunze Mr Metal Color (lacquer): 211 Chrome Silver • Future Floor Polish

Tamiya’s Weathering Pastels Set A was used to add some dirt to the sides of the tyres.

Ingenious design and engineering; superb fit; restrained surface detail; high level of detail; useful options. A few ejector pin marks. Rating: 9.5 out of 10 Thanks to Tamiya for the sample www.tamiya.com Tamiya kits are distributed in the UK by The Hobby Company Limited www.hobbyco.net

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Cannon and gun barrels were painted with Tamiya X10 Gunmetal enamel.

The canopy is held in place with nothing more than its square-profiled locating pins.

Aircraft Edition

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KIT PREVIEW Revell 1:32 Focke-Wulf Fw 190 A-8, A-8/R11 Night Fighter • Kit No. 03926

The pale plastic features crisply recessed panel lines. The kit provides two marking options.

NIGHT AND DAY

This one almost slipped by the Editor, but he finally discovers Revell’s new addition to their 1:32 scale Wurger family, the Fw 190 A-8.

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fter more than a decade since the last 1:32 scale Wurger tooling, Revell delivered an all-new Focke-Wulf Fw 190 F-8 in early 2015. They have now quietly slipped a 1:32 scale Fw 190 A-8 into their range. This one escaped me completely. I had no idea that it was already available and only a vague recollection that it might have been on the way. As soon as I knew that it was out, I ordered one. The kit may be built as a standard Fw 190 A-8 day fighter, or as a Fw 190 A-8/R11 Night Fighter straight from the box. Contents comprise a modest 166 parts in pale grey plastic and 12 parts in clear. Markings are supplied for two aircraft, one A-8 and one A-8/R11. The kit features crisply engraved panel lines with some limited recessed rivet detail. Texture on control surfaces comprises very fine raised lines. I like this lowkey approach. The cooling vents on the fuselage sides are moulded open. Cockpit detail looks okay for this scale, with simple raised bezels and blank dials on the instrument panel. A separate seat cushion is supplied, as are decal harness straps. However, some modellers will undoubtedly want to enhance the front office. You could easily adapt the after market cockpits and other upgrades already available for the F-8 kit. Full engine detail is supplied including push rods, manifolds, cooling fan and exhausts. Despite its completeness, the engine is broken down relatively simply with around 16 parts in total. Cowl guns with ammo feeds and chutes are provided too. The engine cowls and the cowl deck cover are all separate parts. Faired-over cowl gun troughs are an option. There was some discussion about the carburettor bulges on the sides of the nose when the F-8 kit was released. To my eye, the shape looks fine. After a quick browse through reference photos, it would seem that there is quite some variation between individual aircraft, with some showing a sharp demarcation between the bulge and the panel, while others show a softer, blended pressing. If your subject is blended, a swipe of putty at the base of the bulge should do the trick. Mercifully, the wing root cannon bay is moulded closed. The propeller represents the metal VDM 9-12067 A, which was commonly fitted to A-8s. The backs of my propeller blades suffer from a shallow sink mark. The kit wheel bays will be glued to a stout wing spar incorporating the engine bay firewall, ensuring the

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correct dihedral. The characteristic dimples in the top of the wheel wells look good. Alternative parts, including wheels and gear covers, are offered for a raised undercarriage option. The wing is moulded specifically as an A-8 with the outer gun positions and lower panels. However, there is a faintly raised rectangle around the lower wing gun panel, suggesting that there might be tooling provision for an alternative wing in the future. Maybe an A-8/R2 or R8 Sturmbock on the way? All control surfaces, including flaps, are supplied as separate parts and may be posed to taste. Four versions of the clear sliding canopy are included. These are the early flat canopy (open and closed), and the final blown version (open and closed). The open version of each canopy is slightly pinched in at the lower front corners to accurately represent the inward flexing of the real canopy when it slid back along its rails. Other options include different parts for raised or lowered undercarriage, pilot’s step, upper wing gun covers, ribbed or smooth tyres, blanked-off cowl gun cover, and a number of alternative gun barrels. The radar array and the flame dampers are provided on small separate sprues. The package is rounded out - literally - with a large stand and circular base. This may be built to allow the model to swivel and tilt - just what you need for those desktop dogfights! The shape of the overall airframe looks very good. I haven't heard anything to the contrary since the F-8 was released. Markings are supplied for two aircraft, one A-8 and one A-8/R11. Both aircraft are finished in mid-war colours of RLM 74 Grey Green and RLM 75 Grey Violet upper surfaces with RLM 76 Light Blue below. The decals are printed by Cartograf and, contrary to most of Revell's releases, are presented in glorious gloss finish.

The night fighter option features fairings in the cowl gun troughs.

Part of the plastic antenna array for the night fighter option.

Flame dampers are new parts too.

Both flat and blown canopies are offered.

CONCLUSION

Revell has delivered another bargain large-scale classic with their 1:32 scale Focke-Wulf Fw 190 A-8. This is a very well-detailed kit of an extremely popular subject. I built the Revell 1:32 scale Fw 190 F-8 shortly after its release and it proved to be an enjoyable and straightforward project. I don't expect that this Fw 190 A-8 will be any different, although I might add some after market goodies this time. I can’t wait to start snipping parts off the sprues! Purchased by the reviewer. •

The second sprue of clear parts.

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Scale Aircraft Conversions White Metal & Resin Aircraft Parts Since 1990

Occasionally a manufacturer will inaccurately render a part(s) as evidenced in the main landing gear of Trumpeter’s 1/32 Bearcat. The SAC gear has been corrected so the tyre will not drag on the gear strut.

www.scaleaircraftconversions.com

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FEATURE ARTICLE Eduard 1:32 Warhawk Limited Edition • Kit No. 11104

NEW GUINEA KITTY James Hatch builds Eduard’s 1:32 Limited Edition P-40N Warhawk package.

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he Curtiss P-40 Warhawk was an American single-engine, single-seat, all-metal fighter and ground-attack aircraft that first flew in 1938. The P-40 design was a modification of the previous Curtiss P-36 Hawk which reduced development time and enabled a rapid entry into production and operational service. P-40 Warhawk was the name the United States Army Air Corps and after June 1941, USAAFadopted name for all models, making it the official name in the U.S. for all P-40s. The British Commonwealth and Soviet air forces used the name Tomahawk for models equivalent to the P-40B and P-40C, and the name Kittyhawk for models equivalent to the P-40D and all later variants. P-40s first saw combat with the British Commonwealth squadrons of the Desert Air Force in the Middle East and North African campaigns, during June 1941. No. 112 Squadron Royal Air Force, was among the first to operate Tomahawks in North Africa and the unit was the first Allied military aviation unit to feature the "shark mouth" logo, copying similar markings on some Luftwaffe Messerschmitt Bf 110 twin-engine fighters. The P-40's lack of a two-speed supercharger made it inferior to Luftwaffe fighters such as the Messerschmitt Bf 109 or the Focke-Wulf Fw 190 in high-altitude combat and it was rarely used in operations in Northwest Europe. However, between 1941 and 1944, the P-40 played a critical role with Allied air forces in three major theatres: North Africa, the Southwest Pacific, and China. It also had a significant role in the Middle East, Southeast Asia, Eastern Europe, Alaska and Italy. The P-40's performance at high altitudes was not as important in those theatres, where it served as an air superiority fighter, bomber escort and fighter-bomber. Although it gained a post-war reputation as a mediocre design, suitable only for close air support, recent research including scrutiny of the records of individual Allied squadrons indicates that this was not the case: the P-40 performed surprisingly well as an air superiority fighter, at times suffering severe losses but also taking a very heavy toll of enemy aircraft. The P-40 offered the additional advantage of low cost, which kept it in production as a ground-attack aircraft long after it was obsolete as a fighter. The Warhawk was used by most Allied powers during World War II, and remained in frontline service until the end of the war. It was the third most-produced American fighter, after the P-51 and P-47; by November 1944, when production of the P-40 ceased, 13,738 had been built, all at Curtiss-Wright Corporation's main production facilities at Buffalo, New York.

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Aircraft Edition

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FEATURE ARTICLE Eduard 1:32 Warhawk Limited Edition • Kit No. 11104

This is definitely one of those releases where I felt I wanted to do a quick dry-run of all of the main components, primarily due to the modular nature of the kit.

THE KIT

The first thing that surprised me is just how big the box is for this kit, and how heavy it is too. Adorned with one of Romain Hugault’s beautiful lady-inspired artworks that is the raison d'être for this release from Eduard’s new ‘EduArt’ range (following on the heels of the recent P-47 Dottie Mae), we finally see more P-40N plastic on the market. Note the saucy ‘Oops! It Slipped!’ on the bomb that the lady is sitting upon. Can’t beat some nice innuendo in our hobby! Whilst it is still possible to buy other variants of the P-40, the ‘N’ variant hasn’t been available for some time now, and it seems that this is the one that modellers are wanting to see. I suppose from that angle, Eduard’s new Warhawk release is a canny move on their part. Be warned though, only 3000 of these kits are available, and the Overtrees sprues sold out almost immediately. Inside the box, all sprues are bagged into two sleeves, with the three sprues of clear parts being separate to protect them from scuffing. Most of the grey sprues are interconnected. I would’ve liked to have seen all sprues and sprue groups individually packed, but there is no real evidence of scuffing on my parts. Also within the bag is a little packet of polycaps. As this is an Eduard re-pop though, there are of course some of their extras to adorn this model. These take the shape of TWO PE frets (one printed in colour), set of correct resin wheels with appropriate ‘N’ type hubs, fishtail exhausts, clear acetate for the gunsight, and a set of masks for both canopy options. What is this ‘EduArt’, I hear you say. Ok, the rather stunning lid box art is included TWICE inside the box. One of these takes the form of a rolled-up A2 size poster, and the other is a new addition to the range, namely a beautifully printed reproduction of the box art, on an embossed metal plate, so you can feel the various relief, and it should of course catch the light nicely too. The majority of this kit has seen action with previous Hasegawa P-40 releases, with the exception of the N version tail parts, cut-down rear cockpit area and the new canopy parts to suit, and the wheels with the specific hubs. This release does include two schemes which will use the high back cockpit and the older style canopy too. As an added, unlisted bonus, the earlier, shorter fuselage tail section is also included amongst the parts. It isn’t even down on the parts plan, and is certainly not slated for use in this specific Warhawk release. This opens up more options for the modeller.

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Eduard has included all parts to construct more than just the P-40N, although these aren’t shown on the parts plan. An example of this is the short fuselage tail section seen adjacent to the model.

Apart from the resin and PE accessories that accompany this Warhawk release, I also opted to use parts on a separate set, designed for the same Hasegawa release.

More metal detail parts are fitted to the sidewalls. These will later be accompanied by a swathe of colour placards etc. Hasegawa’s standard cockpit is very good and also very simple to construct. I opted to make some changes and add PE into the mix. Here you see the new photo-etch seat which was quite easy to build and mount.

A basecoat of zinc chromate green was applied to the interior parts. Remember to paint the internal fuselage areas at this time too.

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The basecoat was mixed with both black and white and this was applied to the interior to create highlights and lowlights.

I now thin the basecoat to about 25% paint to 75% thinners, and mist this over the interior to bring the various tones together. This creates a little visual interest and removes the monotony of the colour.

TACKLING THE BUILD

What is crucial at this stage is knowing what scheme you will be doing, as there are two different instrument panels for the 5 marking options, as well as the standard high back rear fuselage and the cut-down type which was more synonymous with the ‘N’ variant. I would be choosing Scheme D (7th FS, 49th FG, Cyclops Airfield, Hollandia, New Guinea, May 1944). Although this kit comes accompanied with its own PE parts in both bare brass and printed metal, I

Things really start to come to life with the application of Vallejo detail painting and the various colour PE parts from the Eduard set that was included with the kit. The colour PE is affixed with a combination of either CA or Klear.

have also thrown in the Warhawk Upgrade set from Eduard. I intend to pick and choose between parts from these frets and not just slavishly use every bit of metal because it’s there. Work, as per usual, begins in the cockpit. Thankfully, to fit the actual upgrade parts, removal of the moulded plastic detail is minimal. One of the largest parts to install is the map case, and thankfully I tried to make the PE part before I removed the plastic, which was just as well because I didn’t think this looked very good. This, along with a small number

of other bare brass parts, didn’t make muster, and were consigned to history. Some surgery had to be done to the rear bulkhead, to I could fit the new PE seat and its mounting brackets. For gluing the various PE parts, I used thin MXBON 606 CA, available from Fly Model. I’ve found this to be consistently the best CA I’ve ever used. Most PE parts in the cockpit would need to be fitted after painting. Some drastic moulded detail removal was done on the instrument panel so the new colour panels could later be fitted.

After a further overall coat of Klear, I apply a dark brown wash to the interior. When dry, the excess is buffed away with a cotton bud.

With the flat coat applied to all parts, I need to create a glass effect for the instruments. Micro Kristal Klear is applied with a cocktail stick and allowed to fully cure.

A silver Prismacolor pencil is used to create a chipped paint effect. It’s important not to overdo this so as not make things look contrived. Sometimes, less is more.

Further highlighting is applied using Tamiya weathering pastels, applied with a soft, flat brush. I never use the supplied wand as I find it too harsh in effect. Aircraft Edition

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FEATURE ARTICLE Eduard 1:32 Warhawk Limited Edition • Kit No. 11104

Here you see the finished cockpit, prior to final assembly and installation within the fuselage.

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Cockpit assembly is very straightforward, and the model is designed so that the tub can be installed after the fuselage halves are glued together. I much prefer this approach.

Basic upgrade work was just that…very basic, and nothing that is going to cause any angst. With all the interior parts now prepared, a coat of Gunze Zinc Chromate Green was airbrushed over the cockpit parts, including the rear cut-down deck and also the upper rails that are moulded to the fuselage sides. As this now looks rather monotone, it’s time to enliven things a little! Using the base colour, mixed 50% with white paint, I added highlights to the centres of panels etc, and between rivet lines. Base colour and 50% black was now airbrushed around the edges and recesses, to

create shadows. Lastly, some very thin coats of Zinc Chromate Green were airbrushed over the parts so bring the shades together and create some visual interest. At this stage, it was time to switch to manual mode and hand paint the various internals details. These mostly consisted of black avionics panels, compasses, headrest, stick grip and a few other small details, with just a smattering of other colours here and there, such as the brown leather map case. With all details painted, it was time to lock things in place with a protective coat of Klear. Now the fun could begin.

The profile of the rear fuselage doesn’t properly match that of the forward fuselage. To make this fit better, I glued the correctly profiled lower fuselage areas together, and then cut the internal webbing and forced the upper fuselage to comply.

Here you can see the resultant gap that results from this modification. No problems though as the external seam is now just filled and sanded back.

Medium and fine sanding sticks are used to perfectly level the exterior of the joint, before being buffed to a fine finish.

More inserts at the front of the model, but these are thankfully easy to implement without any remedial work.

Very little will be seen of the engine intake area once assembled and installed. A nice, simple assembly for which I found the extra Eduard parts to be superfluous.

After a coat of Xtreme Metal Aluminium and a protective coat of Klear, dark brown wash was applied to the meshes and the excess then removed with a cotton bud.

Gap-filling CA was used to fill that resultant gap in the lower fuselage seam, created by correcting the fuselage modular fit. This was then sanded and polished to the same finish as the plastic.

My MRP (Mr Paint) scriber makes easy work of reinstating lost panel lines. Some plastic Dymo tape is used as a guide for this.

Hasegawa use the traditional approach for their stabiliser design. As I would pose these in a neutral position, it doesn’t particularly bother me. Detail is very nice, especially the fabric surfaces.

You need to set aside a good few hours to attach the various colour PE parts that are supplied in this kit, but the effort really is worth it. As well as the multi-part instrument panel, there are various placards, throttle unit and canopy handle etc. Some minimal folding is required on some details, but nothing that can’t be achieved with a pair of tweezers. I use a combination of Klear and CA to glue things into place, depending on how easy access is to fit the part. Either way will hold the parts firm. Metal seat belts…you’re either a fan of these or not. Normally I wouldn’t bother with

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A main spar is the basis for the gear bay wells. This is a nice approach that provides good alignment for the parts and also has some very nice out of box details. Not much can be seen once installed though.

Small drill bits are used to open up the holes that will accommodate the bomb/fuel tank sway braces.

them, but Eduard’s recent belts have been super thin and also are beautifully printed with shading on them. I therefore opted to use them. Using a cocktail stick, I gently rolled these from the front and back to induce a slight wave into the metal. After forming them on the plastic seat, I then added them to the metal part and secured the parts with a touch of CA. Where metal edges can be seen on the PE parts, these were touched up with a spot of black paint on a very fine brush. At this point, things really seem to have come alive, so to further enhance the moulded details, AK’s Dark Brown wash is applied to the edges of moulded detail with a very fine brush, and the excess removed, once dry. Gunze H20 Flat Clear is now used to lessen the shine. This also have the pleasant effect of making the colour printed PE look far nicer. As the matt varnish dulled the instruments, these were brought back to life with Micro Krystal Klear, applied with a toothpick. To further enhance the appearance of the green paint, Tamiya’s weathering pastel set (sand) was applied with a soft brush, highlighting the edges of details in the same way that dry-brushing would. Finally, a silver Prismacolor pencil was used to add paint chipping

I paint the main gear bays using the same method of colour variation as employed in the cockpit. Note I painted the areas on the lower wing too. This would be a mistake as it will be obliterated when I prime.

in and around the foot well area and where it’s likely to have been seen. All cockpit sections could now finally be assembled into a tub, ready for later installation within the fuselage.

I LOVE MODULAR CONSTRUCTION, SAID NO ONE, EVER

Hasegawa really did go for maximum with their moulds, with the fuselage looking quite stark at this point. Whilst the front exhaust and breather plates are relatively straightforward, the tail unit presents its own series of problems that need addressing. Of course, the usual mantra is to glue each tail unit half to the fuselage half before bringing the fuselage together. Now, that is well and fine, but when you dry fit the tail half and fuse half, you find that the profiles aren’t exact. If you make it even in one place, it either protrudes or sits below the level in another spot. The way I fixed this was to use a razor saw and cut the rear web of the tail unit, where the plug is moulded. This allows me to bend and manipulate the tail section plastic to fit the fuselage profile better. The halves were glued with Tamiya Quick Setting Thin Cement. As an insurance policy, I wedged a couple of old knife blades in

More modular shenanigans with the leading edge gun inserts. There was no panel line here and all of these seams need eliminating. The fit here was reasonable, but still needed work to remove.

the razor saw cuts, to keep the shape and prevent the plastic from bending back to its original position. With this set, each joint was then sanded perfectly flush to each other and then CA applied to the vertical joint seam. After sanding this back, I used my Mr Paint scribing tool to reinstate the longitudinal panel lines that suffered a little under sanding. A small drill bit helped with missing rivets. The whole zone could now be polished and then some thin cement painted over the scribed detail, melting any dust that had accumulated. Before I could close the fuselage halves, I needed to paint the engine intake assembly. This was built and then airbrushed in Xtreme Metal Aluminium before having a coat of clear added and then a dark brown wash. I opted not to spend time replacing the circular meshes inside this assembly, as it isn’t readily seen and would have created more work than was necessary. This was now glued into the nose and, and the exhaust panels and breather plates added to the fuselage. At this point, the fuselage can be safely glued together, as the cockpit tub will fit from below once the seams are removed. The rejigging of the fuse and tail sections caused an anticipated gap in the

With the fuselage assembled, the cockpit is now finally fitted. I have to say that this is one superb-looking kit.

After protecting the surrounding area with tape, CA is applied to the seams and these are then cut back with sanding and buffing sticks. Fitting the wing was also a joy as there were no nasty surprises lurking anywhere. Only a smear of Mr Dissolved Putty was required in places were a slight hairline gap resulted. Two lamp positions in the rear belly needed removing for the P-40N. I use Magic Sculp for this, and leave 24hrs before sanding to shape.

With the canopy parts fitted and masked, the closed sliding hood was fixed in place with BlueTack. This will later be discarded in favour of the open-hood part.

Zinc chromate green was airbrushed over the canopy frame areas. This will be seen from within and match the interior cockpit colour. Aircraft Edition

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FEATURE ARTICLE Eduard 1:32 Warhawk Limited Edition • Kit No. 11104

lower fuselage seam. This was backed out from within using plasticard, and then gap-filling CA was applied and then sanded and polished along with the rest of the seams. A little fixing of panel lines needed to be done, using my Mr Paint scriber which was run along a strip of Dymo tape. Any subsequent ridges were buffed away and some thin cement brushed over them to clean things up. Now I could finally click the cockpit into place and add some cement to permanently fix it. Both upper and lower engine intakes were now glued in place.

THE ‘HAWK GETS ITS WINGS (AND TAILPLANES)

I did opt to add a little of the Eduard set to the main gear bays, but I really don’t think I gained anything in the way of extra detail. Nonetheless, I know the parts are there. The wheel wells themselves

are built around a forward spar, and incorporates the roof and sidewalls. Little will be seen here when complete. I now treated the wells to the same treatment as the cockpit, with a green Zinc Chromate base colour, followed by highlights and lowlights based on basecoat colour variation. A thin coat of zinc chromate was now used to blend things together, followed by flat varnish and a dusting of Tamiya sand weathering pastel. Before I could glue this into place inside the lower main wing panel, I drilled out the holes for the belly fuel tank mounting lugs. Although the spar and wheel well assembly was a very good fit, I first clamped them together before applying Tamiya thin cement and around the joint. It was now the turn of the upper wing panels to be fitted. These are single-piece items, and Hasegawa moulded the ailerons integrally into them, as they did with the landing flap area. A little

Tamiya thin cement was applied to the inner leading edge and then it was taped. I then chased the leading-edge gap along its length, applying cement as I went, and pieces of tape to secure. I did this along the trailing edge too and then left the panels to cure overnight. After removing the seams, I then fitted the leading-edge nubs for the gear bay, and the gun bay inserts. The latter need their entire seam removing as this wasn’t a separate panel on the real aircraft. To do this, I used CA, before cutting it back with sanding sticks and then polishing. There was nothing at all taxing about the rear flying and control surfaces. Hasegawa moulded the port and starboard stabilisers as upper and lower panels with integral elevators, and yet moulded the rudder separately. These were quickly assembled and left to cure before removing any seams with sanding sponges.

Tamiya Fine White Primer is sprayed over the model, directly from the rattle-can. MRP U.S. Navy White is now airbrushed along the leading edges and tail section, providing an off-white colour.

With the off-white areas masked, the model is pre-shaded with Gunze Black.

The undersides are now masked and the upper Olive Drab C12 is applied. I use a little yellow added to this to create a faded effect between panel lines etc.

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Gunze C13 Grey is now applied to the lower sides, allowing only the merest hint of the pre-shaded colour. A slightly lighter grey is now randomly applied between panel lines etc, breaking up the colour a little more.

Gunze C330 Dark Green is now airbrushed over the tail surfaces and wing patches. Blue-Tack worms are used to create a slightly feathered appearance.

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The read areas are now masked off and airbrushed with Tamiya Flat Red XF-7. Before applying the red area to the nose. US Navy White was airbrushed over this area.

Tamiya’s flexible masking tape is an invaluable aid for spinners with coloured bands. After airbrushing the spinner with H25 Sky Blue, white is then applied. I found masking the spinner to be easier with this order of painting.

MAIN ASSEMBLY

I have to say that apart from the modular tail, Hasegawa created a beautifully engineered kit with the P-40. Fitting the wings and fuselage was a cinch, with only minimal traces of Mr Dissolved Putty being used to fill the odd hair line gap. The same applied to the tail plane too. To complete this very small chapter, I now have to fit the rear fixed glazed area and the windscreen. The latter is moulded integrally with the surrounding fuselage skin, meaning that there’s no worry about gaps around that joint. Test fitting this shows that no issue as such lies around the panel line/joint either, so this is now glued to the fuselage and the supplied masks added to it. A little light sanding and a trace of Mr Dissolved Putty is all that’s required here. It’s now the turn of the rear canopy, and this fits as well as the windscreen. With this now in place, the paper masks are applied to this so as to protect the delicate clear areas. Masking tape is now used to blank off the cockpit opening prior to paint being applied. As I’m working with clear parts, I remove the sliding canopy from the sprue and also mask this in preparation for paint. Note that there are two parts here: one of these is for the closed, and one for open position (pinched).

TIME FOR THE PAINT SHOP

There really isn’t much to masking this off prior to painting. A few bits of the soft grey foam from Eduard’s aftermarket sets, are stuffed into the wheel bays and chin intake, and that’s all that’s really needed. The interior colour is now airbrushed

around the canopy framing, replicating the internal frame colours. For priming, I shoot a rattle can of Tamiya’s fine surface white primer at the model, making short passes over the surface, coating thinly each time. This primer self-levels and is superb. I know many may baulk at using a spray can directly to a model, but I’ve never had a problem. Hasegawa’s plastic is so smooth that the primed model barely needs a lick with a buffing sponge before I look to apply paint. Normally, I would now pre-shade, but bearing in mind that portions of this aircraft are to be ‘white’, I decide to first apply this to the model without any pre-shade. The colour of choice for this is actually an off-white, as I feel white itself is way too stark for this option. My weapon of choice here is MRP US Navy White, and this is airbrushed around the rear fuselage, tail fin and stabiliser undersides, as well as the upper and lower wing leading edges. The difference in colour is discernible and I feel this looks just right for this scheme option. After some careful masking to protect the white areas from subsequent colour application, MRP Basic Black is now used to preshade the model around the various panel lines, access ports etc. I don’t keep this particularly thin in this scale as I want to see a subtle effect that is not just confined to the immediate line areas. Conversely though, I don’t want these lines to be too thick. The photos will give you an idea. I begin to paint the undersides. For this, I use Gunze H53 Grey, and to enhance this, I mix a seriously thin Gunze White and apply a mottle to the underside by means of a random squiggle. As I need this to

be fine, I remove the crown cap from the airbrush, and only stop when the mottle is looking even across the base-coated area. Remember that this has to be just discernible enough to make a difference, and no more. More tape is now used to mask off the lower surfaces, in preparation for the upper surface colour. The main colour here is Gunze H52 Olive Drab. To break up this a little and create some visual interest, I add a very small quantity of white to the basecoat and use this to fade the panel expanses. I now mix the base colour with some Gunze RLM04 Yellow, and apply this randomly to the entire surface, helping to lessen the effect of the white panel shading. To homogenise things a little extra base coat is misted over the model, but this must be extremely thin so as not to erase the faded panels. Blue-Tack masking is now added to the wings, and with this in place, the Gunze H330 Dark Green patches are applied to the leading edges and trailing edges, as well as the upper tail surfaces. To fade this slightly, I use a little of the original Olive Drab basecoat, thinly misted. A small patch of the darker green is used on a small panel on the nose. A few small red areas now need to be applied, using Tamiya XF-7 Flat Red. The first of these is to the front of the gear retraction fairings on the wing leading edge, and the most obvious is to the lower nose cowl. This has a trim to the exterior, which I first apply using the US Navy White, before masking and then adding the Tamiya Flat Red. A few small areas needed to be retouched, plus the

Aircraft Edition

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FEATURE ARTICLE Eduard 1:32 Warhawk Limited Edition • Kit No. 11104

Kit decals are now applied, sealed with Klear, and a dark brown wash applied to the Olive Drab areas only. The excess is removed once dry.

gear well portion on the lower wing panels needed to be painted in green zinc chromate. This is quite a simple model to mask and paint, really. With all the main paint now laid, some thin coats of Klear are now laid down, creating a hard, glossy surface onto which I can now lay decals and washes.

DECALS AND WASHING AND MAIN FINISHING

I’ve not built a model with girly nose-art since I was a kid, and back then it was the Airfix B-17G with the ‘A Bit O Lace’. The bonus with this scheme is that I have not one, but two pin-up girls festooned

across my cowl panels. I can go for that. Eduard’s Cartograf-printed decals are beautiful, so I really was looking forward to applying these. As per usual, the quality of these didn’t disappoint. The decals are superbly thin, glossy, have solid and authentic colour, and carrier film is minimal. To help decals with conforming to panel lines etc., I used Mr Mark Setter. I’ve always found this works well with Cartograf decals, irrespective of whatever details the decals need to sink into. This wasn’t too onerous a model to decal, with a single afternoon session being all that was needed to get everything in place, including the numerous stencils. These were then left overnight to thoroughly settle,

followed by a couple of thin coats of Klear to seal them into the model prior to washes. For this, I used AK Interactive’s Dark Brown wash, applied to panel lines on the Olive Drab areas, with a narrow brush, with small dashes of wash applied to random panels. For the undersides, I opted to use AK’s Neutral Grey wash. The US Navy White areas were not suitable for these colours of wash, so I went with the much more appropriate Interiors Wash from Ammo. When dry, the excess wash is removed and buffed into the surrounding colours. Gunze H20 Flat Clear was airbrushed in thin coats over the model until the correct sheen was achieved. I like the finish to be not quite flat.

Xtreme Metal Aluminium always has a superb finish. This is airbrushed over the gear struts and once protected with Klear, a wash is applied to the assemblies.

For the undersides, I used AK’s Neutral Grey wash for the grey areas, and Ammo’s Interior Wash for the white areas. This can be buffed nicely and isn’t too stark on these brighter areas.

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Interior wash is also applied to the spinner junction, and streaked backwards from this point.

A silver Prismacolor pencil is used to add paint chips to the propeller blades, concentrating mostly across the leading edge of each blade.

Using a panel line wash for black colours, random streaks are painted across the prop blades.

This is then blended with a brush that is slightly dampened with white spirit. This creates a very slight airflow appearance to the prop blades.

Tamiya weathering pastels of various sand/yellow shades are now used to further fade/weather the Olive Drab paintwork. A sharp, silver Prismacolor pencil was now used to add paint chipping around access panels and other places which would be subject to wear and tear.

FINAL SMALL STUFF

For the wheels, I used Gunze H77 Tire Black and Xtreme Metal Aluminium for the hubs. These are then assembled and the hub plates fastened to the outer hub. These brass parts were first primed in Mr Metal Primer and then airbrushed with Gunze White. Once cured, the star decals were added to them. I don’t know whether this was by design, but the carrier film was the exact size of the hub plates, meaning that centralising the decals on the plates was a cinch. Gunze Flat Black was used for the propeller, and Tamiya Flat Yellow for the tips. No blade decals were to be used on this machine.

Alclad Aluminium is airbrushed over the resin exhaust stub parts.

The spinner would normally prove a challenge with the coloured stripes, but this was quite easy. I worked out that if the darker Sky Blue was first applied, then it was easier to properly align the Tamiya flexible tape. Once in situ, Flat White was airbrushed over this, as the flat paint has a better coverage than gloss. Once cured, this was sealed in with Klear, and a wash applied. Zinc Chromate Green was airbrushed over the sliding hood, followed by Olive Drab. Klear and a final decal were then applied to this. Whilst the Olive Drab was in the airbrush, I also painted the aerial mast and pitot. Vallejo and Mr Metal Color paints were now used for various small details, such as the stubs of the protruding Browning machine gun barrels. For the exhausts, I opted to use the rather nice resin parts that came with the kit, and to paint these, I first airbrushed them in Alclad Aluminium and followed this with AK Light Rust enamel wash. Rust and soot pigments were

I now brush AK’s light rust wash over these and allow it to dry thoroughly.

then applied to them, and finally a little pigment fixer was flooded across the surface. Last touches included painting the various light areas in silver and popping the lenses into place with a little drop of Klear. The same applies to the various teardrop lamps that sit on the top and lower side of the wingtips, and also on the fin. To create the exhaust stains, I first apply a very thin Gunze Soot, and feather this as it leads away from the exhausts. Gunze Desert Yellow is then used to add colour to the area immediately behind the stubs. Whilst the Soot was in the airbrush, streaks were added to the MG areas. My sincere thanks to Eduard for sending the Warhawk kit and PE set over for this project, Mike Jolly at Model Kits for Less for the Gunze paint, and to Lisa at The Airbrush Company for nursing my poorly, exhausted Iwata in good time for me to finish this project. •

Earth and smoke pigments are applied with a brush and then set with a dash of pigment fixer. A silver Prismacolor pencil is used to bare some of the metal around the manifold exit. Aircraft Edition

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FEATURE ARTICLE Eduard 1:32 Warhawk Limited Edition • Kit No. 11104

MODELSPEC Eduard 1:32 Warhawk

Kit No. 11104

Accessories Used: Standard Warhawk release resin parts (wheels, exhausts) Standard Warhawk release photo-etch parts Eduard P-40N Upgrade Set, #32406

Eduard has delivered a terrific package based on this rare Hasegawa plastic.

Tools and Equipment Used: Swann Morton scalpels no.11 and no.15 RB Productions fine razor saw MDC sanding sponges Albion Alloys sanding sticks MXBON 606 thin CA Magic Sculp epoxy putty Mr Dissolved Putty Fine tweezers Allen Sidney micro drill bit set Tamiya Extra Thin Cement (Quick Setting) Mr Masking Tape (MRP) Iwata HP-C+ airbrush Micro Krystal Klear Zoukei-mura fine paintbrushes Paint and Finishing Products Used: Tamiya Fine White Primer Vallejo Folkestone Basics paint set Alclad Aluminium Tamiya XF-3 Flat Yellow, XF-51 Flat Earth MR PAINT: US Navy White Gunze Zinc Chromate Green 351, H53 Grey, H52 Olive Drab, H330 Dark Green, Flat White, Desert Yellow, Flat Black, Sky Blue, Soot Xtreme Metal Aluminium AK-Interactive Dark Brown wash and Neutral Grey wash AMMO Interiors wash AK Paneliner for Black Camouflage AK Light Rust enamel wash Mig Black Smoke pigment Mig Dark Earth pigment AK Pigment Fixer Tamiya weathering pastels Premi-Air Liquid Reamer Johnson’s Klear Ammo Airfield Dust pigment

Gunze H20 Flat Clear was airbrushed in thin coats over the model until the correct sheen was achieved.

Reference: Google images is most definitely your friend High level of detail; effective use of multi-media; gorgeous decals; welcome re-appearance of a rare kit. Awkward, modular construction that needs numerous seams removing. Rating: 8 out of 10

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Aircraft Edition

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24/11/2017 11:46

FEATURE ARTICLE Revell 1:32 P-51D Mustang • Kit No. 03944

THE POCKET MONEY PONY Brett Green builds Revell’s brand new 1:32 scale P-51D Mustang.

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T

he prototype NA-73X Mustang was designed and rolled out by North American Aviation a mere 102 days after the specification was issued by the British Purchasing Commission. The initial operational Mustang variants were powered by the Allison V-1710 engine, which was optimised for lowaltitude performance. The P-51 Mustang flew its first operational missions with the Royal Air Force in the reconnaissance and fighter-bomber roles. The combination of a Rolls Royce Merlin engine with the innovative airframe and laminar flow wing design of the A-35/P-51A resulted in one of the best fighter aircraft of World War Two. However, the P-51B/C series (Mustang III) was somewhat hampered by poor visibility through its heavily framed canopy. It was also difficult to bail out in an emergency due to the multi part canopy. The Malcolm Hood was a sliding, one-piece canopy designed by the British to be fitted to the Mustang III to address the bailout problem. However, this was a stopgap measure. The airframe was therefore redesigned with a cut-down rear fuselage and a large, bubbletopped sliding canopy. This would become the P-51D - the definitive version of the Mustang, and perhaps the classic American fighter of the Second World War. A total of 7,956 P-51Ds were produced. North American’s Inglewood factory could not keep up with the pressing demand for this high-performance fighter, so production was also undertaken at Dallas. There was also a shortage of Hamilton Standard propellers. The "P-51K" designation was applied to a further 1,500 machines built at this Dallas facility. The P-51K was almost identical to the P-51D except for the propeller. The P-51K was equipped with a four-bladed Aeroproducts propeller assembly. This could be distinguished from the Hamilton Standard prop on the P-51D by the lack of the characteristic cuffs at the root of each propeller blade and a narrower chord.

Aircraft Edition

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FEATURE ARTICLE Revell 1:32 P-51D Mustang • Kit No. 03944

THE P-51D MUSTANG IN 1:32 SCALE

There is no shortage of P-51D Mustang kits in 1:32 scale. A number of relics from the 1960s and 1970s are still available today, including the 1:32 scale Monogram “Phantom” P-51D/K Mustang and the Hasegawa P-51D. Both Dragon and Trumpeter have made more recent attempts at their own 1:32 scale P-51D kits, but each was plagued with noticeable errors and omissions. In addition to problems in the cockpit, mirror-image and reversed propeller pitch, incorrect wheel wells and various missing elements, the Dragon kit was uncharacteristically moulded with very heavily rendered surface detail. Trumpeter’s effort was better in some areas but introduced new shortcomings of its own, including a very poorly shaped windscreen. It also suffered from heavily recessed and fairly soft surface detail, and shared the same incorrect wheel well configuration as the Dragon kit. Tamiya released their definitive 1:32 scale P-51D Mustang kit in mid 2011, and added a Pacific Theatre and chromed version to the family in subsequent years. Clearly not satisfied to rest on their laurels after their superb 1:32 scale Spitfire family, Tamiya’s designers took a fresh look at some details and engineering elements. Examples include the oxygen hose in the cockpit, the revised sprue attachments for the exhaust stacks and the new approach to the engine bearers. These are incremental improvements, but when the bar has previously been set so high previously it is impressive to find that it can be raised further still. The large number of optional parts demonstrated that Tamiya was determined not to take any short cuts too. Accuracy levels were very high, including the correct straight rear main wheel well wall. This is an outstanding model. Zoukei-Mura was next to market with their super detailed 1:32 scale P-51D and P-51K Mustang kits. Although I have not seen the kit myself, reports suggest that it is a highly detailed and very accurate kit. Revell has now chosen to enter this busy Mustang market with their all-new 1:32 scale P-51D.

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REVELL’S 1:32 SCALE P-51D MUSTANG IN THE BOX I recently received a full set of test shot sprues from Revell’s 1:32 scale P-51D Mustang. The model was designed by Radu Brinzan, and decals are by Barracuda Studios and Chris Busbridge, printed by Revell. The kit comprises only 144 parts in dark grey plastic and eleven parts in clear. The dark grey colour probably unique to the test shots, with the production kit more likely to be presented in light grey. The kit features crisply engraved panel lines with some limited recessed rivet detail. Texture on control surfaces comprises very fine raised lines. I like this lowkey approach. This kit represents an early version P-51D without the distinctive fin fillet. The tail is a separate subassembly, so it is on the cards that Revell will release a later version with the fillet at some time in the future. There are other clues pointing to a possible P-51B/C release in the future too, including the separate leading edge machine gun inserts. The wing is moulded as full span upper and lower

halves, so the correct dihedral should be guaranteed. The wheel wells are correctly depicted with the straight rear wall – essentially the front of the forward wing spar – and separate detail parts for the ribs and structural details. Options include the choice of paper drop tanks, metal drop tanks and bombs. The undercarriage may be built raised or lowered, and two separate sets of flaps are provided for the dropped and raised options. All control surfaces are moulded as separate parts. Three styles of lower cowl vents are included, but only the perforated version is appropriate for this early P-51D. Two styles of instrument coaming are offered too. I believe that Part 34 should be used for this kit. Clear parts are thin and free from distortion. In common with most Mustang kits, the rear of the canopy sits up off the spine when it is open. In reality, the canopy should drop down onto the spine when it slides back. Markings will be supplied for two aircraft, although my sample did not include decals.

The fuselage is broken down into forward and tail sections.

Surface textures are crisp and fine. Recessed panel lines are supplemented with selected rivets and fasteners.

Three styles of lower cowl vents are supplied. The The upper and lower wing halves are presented perforated version on the right of the picture is in full span. The upper half has undercarriage bay the only one required for this early P-51D version. ceiling detail moulded on the inside.

The early style fillet-less tail is supplied as two halves. Other parts unique to the early P-51D are included on this sprue too.

Fabric textures are very nicely done.

Switch panel and sidewall details.

The canopy parts are thin and free from distortion.

The gear doors are supplied as a single part that is sliced into five if the undercarriage is built in the lowered position. Note the wheel bay rib parts here too.

The windscreen is moulded with part of the fuselage.

One of the main wheels and nice radiator face texture.

The early style instrument panel differs from the later P-51Ds.

Kit ordnance includes paper and metal drop tanks plus two bombs.

Two sets of landing flaps are offered – one for the raised option and one lowered.

The exhausts are supplied as one part per side. The stacks are not hollowed out.

Shrouded exhausts are included as an option too.

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THE COCKPIT COMES TOGETHER Assembly commenced in the cockpit. I kept the build as close to "out of the box" as possible, but as I did not have the kit decals I used BarracudaCals wonderful stencil decal set and a combination of Aeroscale and MDC instrument dials. The early-style pilot's seat is supplied in four pieces. A late-style seat is included as an option. Cockpit floor elements include the fuel tank and battery. The instrument panel is specific to the early P-51D configuration. Decals will be included for the dials in the public release. The wooden floor was most likely painted black on the real aircraft, but I decided to finish mine as varnished woodgrain. I started with a base coat of Tamiya XF-57 Buff. A mix of Winsor & Newton Burnt Sienna and Raw Umber oil paints was thinned with Mineral Turpentine and brushed onto the cockpit floor in a streaky application using a stiff brush. After allowing the oil paint to dry thoroughly, the woodgrain areas were masked and the rest of the floor was painted Gunze Acrylic H58 Interior Green. The rest of the Interior Green parts were sprayed at the same time. The parts were temporarily attached to a small box with BluTack to make handling easier while painting. Some parts, such as the pilot's armour and the fuel tank, had to be masked before receiving a sprayed coat of black. Revell's all-plastic cockpit is very well detailed straight from the box. Weathering was limited to a wash of water and Future floor polish in equal quantities with a small amount of a black/brown acrylic paint added. BarracudaCals' stencil decals really are the jewel in the cockpit’s crown. This stencil decal set was originally designed for the Tamiya kit, but I would estimate that 90% of the decals may be used without modification. This sheet provides a complete set of stencils and placards for the cockpit of the P-51D. More than 100 tiny decals recreate the extensive markings found in the cockpit, from the North American Data Plates down to the tiny PULL marking on the drop tank release handle. Instrument faces are not included, but everything else is. Even the battery and radios behind the seat bulkhead are covered in this set. Most stencils are readable and accurately recreate the real markings. This is a simple but spectacular upgrade for the Mustang's large and highly visible cockpit. It was originally designed for the Tamiya kit, but as you can see it works pretty well in Revell’s cockpit too. A sub-set of stencil details will be included on the kit's decal sheet, but I can heartily recommend investing in Roy's full after-market Cockpit Stencils and Placards decal set. Eduard's 1:32 scale USAAF Seat Belts STEEL were used on Revell's plastic seat. These were easy to use and look good. Fit of the cockpit parts was excellent and engineering is quite innovative.

The seat coming together.

Two pilot’s seats are included. This four-piece seat is correct for this early P-51D.

The cockpit floor, fuselage fuel tank, battery and radio boxes.

Sidewall structure and detail parts.

Detail parts are glued in place.

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FEATURE ARTICLE Revell 1:32 P-51D Mustang • Kit No. 03944

I decided to finish the cockpit floor as varnished woodgrain. I started with a base coat of Tamiya XF-57 Buff.

A mix of Winsor & Newton Burnt Sienna and Raw Umber oil paints provided the woodgrain texture.

The oil paints were thinned with Mineral Turpentine and brushed onto the cockpit floor in a streaky application using a stiff brush.

The rest of the floor was painted Gunze Acrylic H58 Interior Green. The rest of the Interior Green parts were sprayed at the same time. The parts were temporarily attached to a small box with Blu-Tack to make handling easier while painting.

The main cockpit components painted and with BarracudaCals’ stencil decals applied.

BarracudaCals' stencil decals really are the jewel in the cockpit’s crown.

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After allowing the oil paint to dry thoroughly, the woodgrain areas were masked.

Some parts, such as the pilot's armour and the fuel tank, had to be masked before receiving a sprayed coat of black.

Weathering was limited to a wash of water and Future floor polish in equal quantities with a small amount of a black/brown acrylic paint added.

The BarracudaCals stencil decal set was originally designed for the Tamiya kit, but I would estimate that 90% of the decals may be used here without modification.

Starboard sidewall being text fitted to the fuselage side.

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Eduard’s STEEL harness was easy to use and looks good in place.

The pilot’s armour has been added to the cockpit floor here. Some parts, such as the pilot's armour and the fuel tank, had to be masked before receiving a sprayed coat of black.

Eduard's 1:32 scale USAAF Seat Belts STEEL were used on Revell's plastic seat.

The instrument panel is specific to the early P-51D configuration. Decals will be included for the dials in the public release.

The cockpit floor was added to this assembly.

The instrument panel was glued to the starboard sidewall structure.

A mix of Airscale and MDC instrument dials were used. A number of BarracudaCals stencils have been applied too.

The port sidewall in place.

Hydraulic line detail will be visible through the bottom of the open wheel well, so careful painting will be rewarded. The forward bulkhead is seen here too.

The sidewalls meet at the rear via locating slots.

The view of the assembled cockpit from below. The completed cockpit ready for installation.

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FEATURE ARTICLE Revell 1:32 P-51D Mustang • Kit No. 03944

BRINGING IT TOGETHER With its modest parts count – only 144 grey plastic parts in this 1:32 scale kit – the balance of construction is fast once the cockpit is complete. The fillet-less tail sections were glued to each fuselage half and the exhaust stacks were attached to the inside of the nose. The large lower radiator intake and tail wheel sub-assembly was assembled, then this and the cockpit were glued to the starboard fuselage half. Both fuselage halves were now brought together. Revell offers the choice of three lower side nose vent panels. The perforated version, Part A44, is appropriate for this early P-51D. The wheel wells are made up from a wing spar that is also the rear wall, plus rib and structural detail moulded as a single part per side. This results in a rare correct depiction of the Mustang’s distinctive wheel well. Revell has matched Tamiya in this crucial and often flawed area. The inboard leading edges are separate parts that must be glued to the front of the wing. You’ll need to take care to avoid a step here. It is a bit tricky to align the top and bottom of the leading edge inserts with the corresponding areas of the wing. The upper and lower wing halves are both full span, so dihedral is not a problem. The control column is glued to the cockpit sub-floor – which doubles as the centre upper wing section – before the wing is mated with the fuselage. Fit is perfect at the wing root. I had a little trouble matching the front supercharger intake fairing with the bottom of the wing, so I trimmed some plastic away until it fitted. The control surfaces are all separate. Revell supplies two sets of landing flaps – one set of dropped flaps and one for the raised option. This ensures the correct angle when dropped, and also means that the closed flaps fit properly when glued in place thanks to a recess at the wing root. The kit’s main landing gear covers are moulded as a single piece so that it may be used for a “wheels up” option. For gear down, the part is sliced into five separate pieces. I did not separate the parts yet, but temporarily attached the single gear cover part to the lower wing using Blu-Tack to act as a natural mask for the wheel well during painting. With the basic airframe complete, I decided to sand down the slightly eggshell texture present on the upper wings. I started with 400 grit Tamiya sanding paper, then progressively finer sanding sticks, then finally Micro-Mesh polishing cloths. This also eliminated the slight steps between the wing and the leading edge gun inserts. Some of the fine panel lines were obliterated by the sanding too, so these were re-scribed using Dymo tape as a guide. When test fitting the windscreen to the fuselage, the clear part appeared to be slightly too narrow, resulting in a shallow step on the port side. I cut a narrow strip from Plasticard and glued it to the area behind the port side of the windscreen. This spacer eliminated the step. Putty was required here and there, in particular around the lower cowl panel and the radiator fairing. The windscreen was glued in place then the cockpit opening was effectively masked by the bubble canopy, which was temporarily tacked into place using tiny spots of Gator’s Grip acrylic glue. Don’t use too much or you will have trouble removing the canopy when painting is complete!

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The radiator fairing and tail wheel well is a single sub-assembly.

Faces and exit ramp.

The faces were weathered with a mix of Raw Umber oil paint and lighter fluid.

The radiator parts were sprayed with Tamiya’s AS-12 Bare Metal Silver straight from the spray can.

The tail wheel well was sprayed with Tamiya XF-4 Yellow Green and weathered with a blend of Future floor polish, water and a dark brown acrylic mix.

The fuselage interior was painted Gunze acrylic H58 Interior Green.

The tail section attaches using a couple of locating tabs. Fit is pretty good here.

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Shrouded exhaust parts. The exhausts may be fitted without the shrouds too. Check references for your particular subject choice.

I hollowed out the ends of the exhaust stacks with the tip of a hobby knife and a fine drill.

Exhausts snug in their shroud.

The exhausts, cockpit, radiator and tail wheel assembly have been glued to the starboard fuselage half.

This is how it should look if the sub-assemblies are properly aligned.

The sidewalls were clamped to the fuselage sides while the cement set to avoid any unsightly gaps.

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FEATURE ARTICLE Revell 1:32 P-51D Mustang • Kit No. 03944

Undercarriage, wing spar and wing leading edge parts.

The wing spar and undercarriage parts have been attached to the full-span lower wing. Clamps hold the parts in place as the cement sets.

The main undercarriage bay and the one-piece landing gear covers were painted with Tamiya XF-4 Yellow Green and weathered with a blend of Future floor polish, water and a dark brown acrylic mix.

The centre section of the upper wing was painted Gunze acrylic H58 Interior Green. The control column will be fed through a slot in the cockpit floor.

The upper wing half was glued to the fuselage. Fit was excellent.

Tape and clamps helped hold the wing halves in place.

Once the glue had set, the lower wing half was added. The leading edge inserts were glued in place and clamped to minimise steps.

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Some of the separate control surfaces ready for assembly.

Horizontal tail planes.

Radiator fairing parts were painted with Tamiya XF-4 Yellow Green.

I had a little trouble matching the front supercharger intake fairing with the bottom of the wing, so I trimmed some plastic away until it fitted.

An additional locating tab was added to the front inside of the nose. This helped align the front of the lower cowl panel with the lower nose.

The lower nose panel was thinned at the edges and ends using a hobby blade.

The slightly eggshell texture on the upper wings was sanded down with 400 grit Tamiya sanding paper, followed by progressively finer sanding sticks, then finally Micro-Mesh polishing cloths.

These are the parts used for the lowered landing flaps.

The windscreen appeared to be slightly too narrow compared to the fuselage, resulting in a shallow step on the port side. A narrow strip was sliced from Plasticard and glued to the area behind the port side of the windscreen. This spacer eliminated the step.

The lower wing formation lights were masked with punched circles of Tamiya tape.

The masked windscreen and early-style instrument coaming.

The canopy was temporarily attached to the fuselage using tiny spots of Gator’s Grip Acrylic Glue.

Putty was required here and there, in particular around the radiator fairing...

…and the lower cowl panel.

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FEATURE ARTICLE Revell 1:32 P-51D Mustang • Kit No. 03944

PAINTING AND MARKINGS There is some speculation about the camouflage colours used on these UK based Mustangs. The most widespread belief is that the upper camouflage is RAF Dark Green and the lower surfaces are either bare metal or RAF Medium Sea Grey. I chose to paint my model with Medium Sea Grey lower surfaces. The first step was to paint the canopy and windscreen frames black. This was followed by a couple of overall coats of Tamiya Grey Primer straight from the spray can. The propeller spinner and the areas destined to be painted yellow or white were now treated to a coat of Tamiya’s White Primer, also straight from the spray can. White invasion stripes and wing theatre markings were masked with Tamiya tape. This is easy to say, but took quite a while to plan and execute. Once the masks were in place, the black stripes were painted using a 50:50 mix of Tamiya acrylic XF- Flat Black and XF-64 Red Brown. A second round of masking followed, this time covering the full extent of black and white invasion stripes and the yellow nose. I sprayed the yellow base here to make it easier to apply the chequered decals later on. The lower surfaces of the model were hit with two coats of Tamiya AS-32 Medium Sea Grey RAF (2), once again straight from the spray can. I mixed a paler version of this colour using Tamiya acrylic paints and applied a disruptive weathering mottle to the lower surfaces. The upper surfaces were painted Gunze-Sangyo H330 RAF Dark Green, followed by a similar disruptive mottling and streaking to break up the monotony of the single colour. The masks were now removed, revealing the striking black, white and yellow markings. Some

The first painting task was to paint the canopy and windscreen frames black.

black paint bled under the masks so I spent a few minutes re-masking and respraying these untidy areas. Weathering comprised a subtle shading of panel lines. A glossy coat of Future Floor Polish was applied before applying Cutting Edge’s Item No. CED32085 – P-51D Magnificent Mustang Part 3. Although Meteor Productions have been closed down for some years, Cutting Edge decals are still available from the www.fineartofdecals.com website. I was concerned about the fit of the red and

yellow chequer decals on the nose, but they fitted very well. I had to trim a little from the lower sections of the decals, but the yellow base coat covered these adjustments. The white fuselage stars did have trouble covering the high contrast black and white invasion stripes. I really should have masked off the area where the national markings overlapped the invasion stripes. I fixed the problem by applying a second set of fuselage markings over the first. The model was now treated to a couple of coats of Alclad II Lacquer Flat Clear.

This was followed by a couple of overall coats of Tamiya Grey Primer straight from the spray can.

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The propeller spinner and the areas destined to be painted yellow or white were now treated to a coat of Tamiya’s White Primer.

The nose was painted yellow as a base for the red and yellow checks.

White invasion stripes and wing theatre markings were masked with Tamiya tape.

The black stripes were painted using a 50:50 mix of Tamiya acrylic XF- Flat Black and XF-64 Red Brown.

This aircraft featured lower wing invasion stripes too.

The lower surfaces of the model were painted with two coats of Tamiya AS-32 Medium Sea Grey RAF (2) straight from the spray can.

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FEATURE ARTICLE Revell 1:32 P-51D Mustang • Kit No. 03944

The upper surfaces were painted Gunze-Sangyo H330 RAF Dark Green.

The camouflage was mottled and streaked with paler shades of the base colours.

The masks were now removed, revealing the striking black, white and yellow markings.

Some black paint bled under the masks so I spent a few minutes re-masking and respraying these untidy areas.

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Weathering comprised a subtle shading of panel lines.

Cutting Edge’s Item No. CED32085 – P-51D Magnificent Mustang Part 3 was used in the absence of kit decals.

The white fuselage stars had trouble covering the high contrast black and white invasion stripes. A second set of fuselage markings was therefore applied over the first.

The model was now treated to a couple of coats of Alclad II Lacquer Flat Clear.

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FEATURE ARTICLE Revell 1:32 P-51D Mustang • Kit No. 03944

FINISHING TOUCHES With the airframe painted, it was time to assemble and finish the various dangly bits. The main landing gear, tail undercarriage, paper drop tanks and the propeller assembly were assembled and painted. The spinner was first painted yellow then masked with Tamiya’s new flexible white tape before receiving its red coat. The result was a nice clean demarcation between the red and yellow segments. At this last minute I also decided to depict the bare metal between the lowered flaps and the trailing edge of the upper wing. I measured a length of Bare Metal Aluminium self-adhesive foil against the section of flap and cut it to the approximate size. Once it had been burnished into place, the excess foil was carefully cut with a new hobby blade and peeled off the plastic. The undercarriage was glued into place. Fit was positive and the rake of the legs looks good. The remaining parts – drop tanks, tail gear and prop – were fixed to the model too.

True Details resin wheels replaced the kit wheels.

The spinner was first painted yellow then masked with Tamiya’s new flexible white tape before receiving its red coat. The result was a nice clean demarcation between the red and yellow segments.

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The main landing gear, tail undercarriage, paper drop tanks and the propeller assembly were assembled and painted.

Dangly bits painted and awaiting installation.

Bare Metal Aluminium Foil was used to represent the natural metal between the wing and the flap.

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CONCLUSION I am really impressed with this kit. Revell’s new 1:32 scale Mustang is accurate in outline and detail, features fine surface textures and decent fit. It does not have a full engine bay and removable cowls like the Tamiya kit, and Tamiya’s kits are better detailed in the cockpit and offer a few more options. Even so, Revell’s 1:32 scale P-51D Mustang is an outstanding specimen. It is straightforward to assemble, looks terrific when built and the low price means that you can build a whole team of these large scale ponies. Revell has undoubtedly cornered the budget 1:32 scale Mustang market.

The remaining parts – drop tanks, tail gear and prop – were fixed to the model now.

The finished model viewed from below.

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FEATURE ARTICLE Revell 1:32 P-51D Mustang • Kit No. 03944

MODELSPEC Revell 1:32 P-51D Mustang

Kit No. 03944

Decals Used: Eduard Item No. 32868 - Seatbelts USAAF WWII STEEL Barracudacals Item No. BC32010 - P-51D Mustang Cockpit Stencils and Placards. MDC USAAF Instrument Dials Airscale Item No. AS32USA - Instrument Dials WWII Generic: USAAF decal sheet Cutting Edge Item No. CED32085 - P-51D Magnificent Mustang Part 3 Materials Used:

“Revell has undoubtedly cornered the budget 1:32 scale Mustang market...”

Bare Metal Foil - Aluminium Milliput White Two-Part Epoxy Putty Tamiya Surfacer EZ Line Tools and Modelling Products Used: Tamiya masking tape (various widths) Tamiya Extra Thin Cement Revell Contacta Cement Selley’s Super Glue Zip Kicker (super glue accelerator) Tamiya Masking Tape Blu-Tack Dymo tape Irwin Clamps Paints and Finishing Products Used: Cockpit Interior Paints: Tamiya Acrylics: X-18 Semi Gloss Black; XF-1 Flat Black. Gunze-Sangyo acrylic H58 Interior Green Vallejo Model Color Acrylics: 919 Foundation White; 70950 Black; 70953 Flat Yellow; 70957 Flat Red Vallejo Panzer Aces Acrylics: 301 Light Rust; 337 Highlight Ger. (Black) Future Floor Polish Alclad II Lacquer Flat Clear Solvaset Decal Setting Solution Exterior Paints: Tamiya Spray Cans: Fine White Primer; AS-12 Bare Metal Silver; AS-32 Medium Sea Grey 2 RAF; TS-14 Black; TS-30 Silver Leaf; TS-34 Camel Yellow. Gunze-Sangyo acrylic: H330 RAF Dark Green Tamiya Acrylics: X-25 Clear Green; X-27 Clear Red; XF-1 Flat Black. Winsor & Newton Raw Umber Oil Paint Future Floor Polish Alclad II Clear Lacquers: Flat and Matt Solvaset Decal Setting Solution Ronson Lighter Fluid Brand new kit; accurate overall; clever engineering / parts breakdown; crisply recessed panel line detail; poseable control surfaces; useful options including alternative.

Revell’s new 1:32 scale Mustang is accurate in outline and detail, features fine surface textures and decent fit.

Pebbly finish on some exterior surfaces; tricky fit in a few areas. Rating: 9 out of 10 Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For details visit www.revell.de/en, @RevellGermany or facebook.com/Revell

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In reality, the open canopy should be flush against the line of the fuselage spine.

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Tech Guide Airbrush Cleaners and Suggestions on Getting the Gunk Out

There is no shortage of different cleaners available!

AIRBRUSH CLEANERS AND SUGGESTIONS ON

GETTING THE GUNK OUT John Miller compares the effectiveness of various thinners on different types of paints.

T

his little project tried to answer a simple question: How well do airbrush cleaner’s remove dried paint? Most people with a little airbrushing experience will tell you that wet paint is easier to remove from an airbrush than is dry paint. In fact, particles of dried paint clinging to the needle, nozzle and innards of our airbrushes cause multiple issues including loss of spray pattern, clogging, spitting, and even sneezing. Folks, it’s just not very pretty. Many of us use commercially available airbrush cleaners to remove paint from our brushes following a normal painting session. And to be clear, most of the airbrush cleaners tested in this study will do an acceptable job removing paint that is wet or just partially dried. In contrast, the removal of paint that has dried completely to the metal surfaces of our airbrushes is the focus of this study. Dried paint may be removed by a cleaning solution in two ways: 1) the cleaner can dislodge and/or fragment dried paint producing visible particles, or 2) the cleaner can dissolve or solubilize dried paint thereby putting it back into solution. From the standpoint of cleaning our airbrushes, a cleaner that dissolves or solubilizes dried paint is preferred. In order to test how efficiently common airbrush cleaners solubilize dried paint, the crew down in the secret underground paint research laboratory came up with something a little different.

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THE AIRBRUSH CLEANER TEST

To assess the ability of common airbrush cleaners to dissolve dried paint from multiple manufacturers, ~1 drop of each type of paint was used to coat the well of an aluminum paint palette. The acrylic paints used were dark colors from the Mission Models, Vallejo, LifeColor, Tamiya, and Model Master ranges. Gunze Mr. Color (a lacquer) was included for amusement. After a 2-hour drying time, the painted wells were covered with ~0.5ml of a commercially available cleaning solution and allowed to sit for 20 minutes. After this time the palette was gently rocked to determine if any of the painted wells showed signs of paint solubilization (dissolving). Wells exhibiting complete solubilization are denoted with an “S+” in Table 1 below. Wells that didn’t exhibit complete solubilization were aggressively scrubbed with a micro brush to determine if the paint was still adherent. Some paints would dissolve immediately with just a small amount of scrubbing and these are denoted with an “S-“ in Table 1 below. In contrast to degrees of solubilization, some painted wells exhibited a fragmentation of the paint layer with little-to-no evidence of the paint actually dissolving. These wells are denoted by an “F” in Table 1. Wells that showed no effects to the cleaners being tested are denoted with an “I” in Table 1 for insoluble. The special category “G” for goo was used to describe the evil mess that cheap lacquer thinner turns some dried acrylics into: truly nasty.

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If you’re wondering, whether I questioned my sanity for a moment: bent over, stirring little wells of dissolving paint with a microbrush, my camera at the ready, the answer is yes. Good thing the shop door was locked. To give you an idea of what this little test looked like, photographs of the Life Color Airbrush Cleaner test palette are provided. The palette layout is as follows: Effects of Airbrush Cleaners on Dried Acrylic Paint Layers Paint Cleaner Manufacturer Tam Mission Vallejo MM LC Gunze Grex S+ SF F SI Vallejo S+ F F I SI LifeColor S+ SF SSS+ Tamiya SSSS+ F S+ Windex S+ S+ I I I I Lacquer S+ G G S+ G F Key: S+ Solubilized S- Solubilized with brushing F Fragmented I Insoluble G Goo

Abbreviations: MM Model Master LC LifeColor Tam Tamiya Cleaner Win Windex

Upper row, from left to right-Tamiya, Mission Models, Vallejo. Lower row, from left to right-Gunze, Model Master, Life Color. This photograph shows both the Tamiya and Gunze paint layers solubilized by Life Color cleaner.

RESULTS

A quick glance at Table 1 shows that the Grex cleaner (#GXCL-04) is good for cleaning dried Tamiya, Mission Models, and LifeColor. Windex, a product that many modelers use when cleaning their brushes proved efficient at dissolving Tamiya and Mission Models but not much else. A surprising result was the rather anemic performance turned in by Vallejo Airbrush Cleaner (#71.119). I was sufficiently surprised at the first round of results to purchase a new bottle of Vallejo Airbrush Cleaner for a repeat test: results were the same. Vallejo cleaner failed to solubilize but caused both Vallejo and LifeColor paints to fragment when brushed. A very small degree of solubilization was evident but nothing compared to the other cleaners. I suspect a longer soak time with the Vallejo cleaner would result in more solubilization than is evident in 20 minutes? A pleasant surprise is LifeColor Airbrush Cleaner. This cleaner shows a pronounced ability to solubilize most of the acrylic paints tested plus Gunze Mr. Color, a lacquer. I’ll be replenishing my stock of LifeColor Airbrush Cleaner very soon. Tied with LifeColor is the Tamiya Lacquer-based Airbrush Cleaner (#87089). I’ve been using this stuff for years as the final rinse step in my airbrush cleaning routine. No matter what type of paint I’m cleaning out of my brush (Vallejo, LifeColor, Gunze), the last solution I spray through it is Tamiya Airbrush Cleaner. I find that the lever actions of my brushes don’t bind even after many months in storage if they’re rinsed out with this cleaner before being put to bed: really good stuff. When you can find it, I suggest you stock up. I’ve cleaned a lot of enamel and lacquer paints out of my airbrushes with lacquer thinner over the years so just for old times sake I included it in the test. The effect that cheap hardware store lacquer thinner (Klean-Strip) had on dried acrylics necessitated the category of “G” for goo. I would not want to remove this exceedingly sticky, tar-like material from my airbrush. A notable exception is Model Master acrylic, which is efficiently solubilized by lacquer thinner. An additional take home point from the data is that you guys shooting Tamiya acrylics have no excuse for not having the cleanest airbrushes in the modeling kingdom. Every cleaner and thinner tested quickly solubilized dried Tamiya paint completely.

CONCLUSION

As mentioned earlier, wet paint is easier to clean than dried paint. If you can keep the paint in your airbrush innards wet until the moment you add thinner or cleaning solution to your brush, the clean up job will be much easier and more thorough with less work. An easy trick to remember is “Don’t Run It Dry.” No matter how hard fight the temptation to empty that last ¼ cup of paint at the trash can (or cat) until the hiss of air can be heard from your brush. That hissing is the sound of paint being air-dried to all the little nooks and crannies of your airbrush. By keeping the paint in your brush wet right up until you begin cleaning, the opportunity for the paint to dry is greatly

The second photograph shows that scrubbing of the same palette with a microbrush revealed that all but the Vallejo paint layer was dissolved. The Vallejo layer was fragmented.

reduced and the brush will be much easier to clean: simple. Sooner or later however, you’ll forget your poor airbrush for an hour or two with the paint cup full of the nastiest acrylic paint known to mankind. In this situation you’ll probably be faced with cleaning dried paint out of your airbrush. Depending on the brand of the offending paint, you may be able to get away with just a long soak with the appropriate cleaner. For example, if my brush were infested with dried Model Master Acrylic, I’d try a series of 15-minute soaks with either LifeColor or Tamiya cleaners. Lacquer thinner will work for Model Master but it’s the exception of all the acrylics tested. To remove dried Vallejo, I’d be reaching for my Tamiya cleaner and leave the other brands on the shelf. Conversely, dried Life Color is solubilized with a little scrubbing in Grex, Vallejo, or Life Color cleaners: many options. If you’re shooting the new Mission Models acrylics (my personal favorite) and have a dried paint problem, Grex, Vallejo, Life Color, Tamiya, and Windex are all good options. Well, for those of you with a gooped-up airbrush hidden away in the bottom drawer of your workbench, I hope this serves to give you (and your airbrush) some hope. Likewise, for those who prefer a proactive approach to keeping their brushes clean, I hope you picked up a trick or two that makes that job a little easier. • For more information on this article visit ModelPaintsolutions.com Aircraft Edition

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NEW in the ‘HOW TO BUILD...’ series

How to Build... TAMIYA 1:32 F4U-1A and F4U-1D CORSAIR

When Tamiya released their 1:32 scale Spitfire Mk.IXc in 2009, they set a new standard for plastic model kits. Each model since then has seen incremental improvements. Just when you think the series can’t get any better, Tamiya goes and proves you wrong. Their 1:32 scale Birdcage Corsair was released in mid-2013. This was an outstanding kit in every respect. Tamiya expanded their 1:32 scale Corsair family with an F4U-1A in late 2014. This kit included several new sprues and offered a wider range of camouflage and marking possibilities. Tamiya has now completed the -1 trio with their new 1:32 scale F4U-1D Corsair. Once again, this kit includes a significant number of brand new sprues to depict the unique attributes of this variant. We can also marvel at the kit’s subtle surface textures, high level of detail, clever parts breakdown and accuracy. In this new book, we provide an exhaustive stepby-step illustrated guide to building and detailing the 1:32 scale F4U-1D and F4U-1A, offering plenty of inspiration with two different configurations and colour schemes.

Only

£14.95 plus p&p

We have also a bonus Chapter on building Tamiya’s 1:48 scale Corsair family, offer some tips for painting pilot figures and include a helpful walk around of a Corsair under restoration.

ALSO AVAILABLE Visit doolittlemedia.com for details PLACE YOUR ORDER NOW ON TEL: 01525 222573 FAX: 01525 222574

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Tamiya 1:32 F4U-1A and F4U-1D CORSAIR HOW TO BUILD... CORSAIR vol 2 Name ..................................................................................................................... Address................................................................................................................ ...................................................................................................................................

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modeller Next Issues military illustrated

ISSUE No.081 January 2018

Aircraft Edition - Brett Green AFV Edition - Marcus Nicholls Publisher; Alan Harman Graphic Design; Alex Hall Advertising Manager; Sean Leslie Office Manager; Paula Gray Administration Manager; Hannah McLaurie Administration Assistant; Julie Lane MIM Website; Doolittle Media Web Team

Military Illustrated Modeller Issue 82 - AFV Edition

Editors;

BEUTE-STUG!

A JSU-152 in German hands

on sale 18 January 2018

Printed by; Henry Stone Ltd, Oxfordshire Distributed by; Seymour Distribution 2 East Poultry Avenue, London, EC1A 9PT Tel; 020 7429 4000 Newstrade; Select Publisher Services 3 East Avenue, Bournemouth, BH3 7BW Tel; 01202 586848 Email; [email protected] Military Illustrated Modeller is published on the third Thursday of each month by; Doolittle Media, Doolittle Mill, Doolittle Lane, Totternhoe, Bedfordshire, LU6 1QX UK www.doolittlemedia.com Tel; +44 (0)1525 222573 Fax; +44 (0)1525 222574 Editorial enquiries; Aircraft Edition email; [email protected] AFV Edition email; [email protected] Advertising enquiries; Tel; +44 (0)1525 222573 Email; [email protected] Subscription enquiries; Tel; +44 (0)1525 222573 Fax; +44 (0)1525 222574 Email; [email protected]

BON VIVANTE

Tamiya's superb 1:35 Somua in French Army colours

Subscription rates are; Option 1 - 12 Issues (AFV & Aircraft) 1 year UK - £66.00 / Europe - £80.00 / World - £90.00 (prices include shipping) Option 2 - 12 Aircraft Editions 2 years UK - £66.00 / Europe - £80.00 / World - £90.00 (prices include shipping) Option 3 - 12 AFV Editions 2 years UK - £66.00 / Europe - £80.00 / World - £90.00 (prices include shipping) For all orders, please call; (UK) +44(0)1525 222573 or visit www.doolittlemedia.com

1:35 E-10 development vehicle

Military Illustrated Modeller Issue 83 - Aircraft Edition

Reproduction in part of any text, photograph, or illustration without written consent from the publisher is strictly prohibited. While due care is taken to ensure the contents of Military Illustrated Modeller is accurate, the publishers and printers can not accept responsibility for errors and omissions. Advertisements are accepted for publication in Military Illustrated Modeller only on Doolittle Media’s standard terms of acceptance of advertising, copies of which are available from the advertising department. Please write to the address above. All advertising, circulation and subscription enquiries should also be directed to the UK address above.

ENTWICKLUNGSFAHRZEUG

on sale 15 February 2018

PFALZ OVER THE WESTERN FRONT

Gary Edmundson builds Wingnut Wings’ 1:32 scale Pfalz D.IIIa.

KIWI CORSAIR

I AM THE WALRUS

James Hatch tackles the new Airfix 1:48 scale Supermarine Walrus.

Brett Green paints Tamiya’s 1:48 F4U-1A Corsair in a battle-weary Pacific scheme.

KITTY’S KAMAN

Kamil Feliks Sztarbala builds Kitty Hawk’s new 1:48 scale Kaman helicopter.

© Doolittle Media 2018

Aircraft Edition

p 65 NextIssue 081B.indd 65

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Wingnut Wings Jeannin Stahltaube (1914) • Kit No. 32058

Tailpiece

66

Instructions are luxuriously presented and easy to follow.

One of the big warping wings with its impressive translucent trailing edge.

IS IT A BIRD? IS IT A PLANE? The Editor examines Wingnut Wings’ brand new 1:32 scale Jeannin Stahltaube.

W

ingnut Wings’ 1:32 scale Jeannin Stahltaube (1914) comprises 163 parts in grey injection moulded plastic, two parts in clear, 21 parts on a single photo-etched fret and markings for five aircraft. In common with their earlier releases, Wingnut Wings' Jeannin Stahltaube (1914) features outstanding representation of fabric, rib baton and general surface detail; plus translucent wing trailing edges and raised details where appropriate. Kit engineering is conventional and designed to make construction as painless as possible while not compromising on detail. The wings are moulded as one large single piece per side. As this aircraft employed wing warping for turning, you don't even have to worry about ailerons. Not many struts either! The large horizontal tail is a single part too. The fuselage interior includes plenty of detail including framework, bulkheads, control wheel and more. The instrument panel is adorned with individual authentic decal instruments, and a full page of the instruction is devoted to rigging (bracing wires and control cables) and painting the cockpit. Wingnut Wings offers the choice between the Mercedes D.I and the Argus As.II engines. Both engines are real masterpieces - little models in their own right. Other options include four different propellers, three styles of exhaust plus accessories - 20kg Carbonit bombs, a flare gun and a Luger Flugzeugpistole Automatik. The engine cowling should be finished in a two-tone metallic turned effect. Although the instructions do not tell the modeller how to achieve this finish, there is a "Hints and Tips" page on the Wingnut Wings website that offers some helpful suggestions. Plastic turnbuckles on the top and bottom cabane struts are supplied for the distinctive rigging.

The wheels are supplied in plastic, including wheel spokes that are as fine as one could expect from injection moulding technology. If you would prefer thinner spokes though, you are in luck as Wingnut Wings also supplies optional photo-etched spokes. Each wheel receives two spoked sides plus two photo-etched rims. The clear parts are thin and free from distortion. The 24 page instruction booklet is presented in the same format as its predecessors, with 3D construction views supplemented by generous reference photos of wartime machines. Five marking options are provided in various combinations of Field Grey and Unbleached Linen. I particularly like the late (1916 or 1917) option that is overall Field Grey with gigantic wing Iron Crosses that would be worthy of Rat Fink's Hot Rod. The single decal sheet is printed by Cartograf. It is in perfect register and feature thin surrounds.

The big horizontal tail plane is moulded in one piece.

Nice texture on the pilot’s seat.

CONCLUSION

As always, Wingnut Wings extracts the best possible results from plastic moulding technology thanks to their exemplary research, brilliant digital modelling and eagle-eyed supervision of the mould cutting, toolmaking and production process. The result is a series of kits that has inspired many modellers who might not have previously considered building either a WWI subject or a 1:32 scale model to try something different. With its large, single-deck wings and birdlike tail feathers, this Jeannin Stahltaube (1914) should be not only a straightforward project for the WWI novice modeller, but also a striking display piece. Oh Wingnut Wings, you've done it again! • Thanks to Wingnut Wings for the review sample www.wingnutwings.com

The kit’s single clear part.

Photo-etched belts and optional spoked wheels are included.

The kit’s decal sheet offers five marking options.

Military Illustrated Modeller - January 2018

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Available in the ‘HOW TO BUILD...’ series How to Build... Hawker Typhoon Mk.Ib New and revised for 2017 now including the Car Door and Bubbletop builds. The complete guide to building the amazing Airfix 1:24 scale Hawker Typhoon, written by Brett Green of HyperScale and Model Military fame. This new book features an exhaustive step-by-step guide to construction with modelling contributions by James Hatch, Brett, and Chris Wauchop. Hundreds of construction photos, reference images, a museum walk around, and how to get the very best from your big Typhoon kit a must have before you build the model!

NOW SHIPPING

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.95 £14 s p&p plu

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The Airfix 1:24 Hawker Typhoon Mk.Ib HOW TO BUILD... TYPHOON Name ..................................................................................................................... Address................................................................................................................ ...................................................................................................................................

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